Best ceiling fan accessories according to redditors
We found 321 Reddit comments discussing the best ceiling fan accessories. We ranked the 88 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 321 Reddit comments discussing the best ceiling fan accessories. We ranked the 88 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
$6.93 on Amazon. for those of you who rarely walk into a Home Depot.
https://www.amazon.com/Ceiling-Fan-Pull-Chain-Set/dp/B00FMK9ACM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467348460&sr=8-1&keywords=ceiling+fan+light+fan+chains
I like automation for the sake of automation as next as the next guy. But if anyone wants a more straight-forward approach, you can buy a stand-alone switch with built-in humidity sensor for $20-40. I've had one in my bathroom for almost 5 years now, and it has worked great.
Boom: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DE8D2ZO/
One pack $7.99
Two pack $29.94
Yeah. I'll take two one packs.
Here you go folks. $8.99 on Amazon.
I was just shopping for these. The same/similar ones are on Amazon
Ceiling Fan Pull Chain Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FMK9ACM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_o9StzbT640F06
Correct me if I’m wrong, but I’m afraid that’s not the case, but there is a product for retrofit fans by Hunter:
https://www.amazon.com/Hunter-99107-SimpleConnect-Programmable-Control/dp/B00UQOP2JO
The product you linked just adds wireless communication to a Casablanca wall switch or remote.
However, if you look at the reviews of their SimpleConnect app and how difficult it is to get it work with HomeKit or Alexa, maybe you should search for another option
No that will not work, it would for a normal electrical outlet but not to support a ceiling fan, youlll need one of these or something similar at the local home depot or Lowes
Saf-T-Brace for Ceiling Fans
Some advertiser is making money off this link and that's generally frowned upon. Remove referral (
ref=...) from the link and I'll restore it.Edit: Sigh. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DE8D2ZO/
I think it's easier to search for minor inconveniences and annoyances around your house, then search for ways to automate it away.
I gotta watch out with this site or I'll end up in the non-automated poorhouse, but it's awesome for product discovery
http://www.smarthomedb.com/products
Since you mentioned OpenHAB, the supported technologies list is a good place to start a wishlist too
http://www.openhab.org/features/supported-technologies.html
I'm using z-wave for most of my devices, so the product database is full of devices that are more likely to be compatible
https://github.com/openhab/openhab/blob/master/bundles/binding/org.openhab.binding.zwave/database/products.xml
This forum thread is also great for seeing what other people have gotten working
https://community.openhab.org/t/collection-of-working-z-wave-configs/1407
Personally, I've had great luck with these devices:
Aeon Labs Aeotec Z-Wave Z-Stick, Gen5 Z-Wave Plus - ZW090 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X0AWA6E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_cIbCwbYMNV0A4
2gig CT100 Z-Wave Programmable Thermostat (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CQ4V3Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_3IbCwbNFR9PQ6
MIMOLite - Z-wave Mulit-Input/Output Dry Contact Bridge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B6RZ7MM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_uKbCwbF1ZBAXK
GE12722 Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Control On/Off Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_oLbCwbQCFR48K
GoControl WNK01-21KIT Z-Wave Essentials Wink Enabled Security Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XUXYSWU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_p5bCwbRY8TXQ5
I have an old ADT installed Safewatch pro 3000 alarm, and this ties it into OpenHAB really nicely.
http://www.alarmdecoder.com/
I'm comfortable pulling wires through the walls, so I use one of these for TTS playback from my OpenHAB box:
Elk ELK-70 Echo Speaker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003XP1HZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_kZbCwb799TN4C
Driven by one of these:
Lepai LP-2020A+ Tripath TA2020 Class-T Hi-Fi Audio Amplifier with Power Supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049P6OTI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_X0bCwb7MYGM47
A few scenarios might help with inspiration.
I have a sensor on my garage entry door that kicks on the laundry room light when the door is opened so I never enter a dark house with my hands full.
If it's 00:00 - 06:00 and any perimeter sensors on the alarm are tripped, all outside and main level lights come on at full brightness
I have a sensor on my garage door to send me an alert if it has been open for more than 15 minutes, and a camera and a mimolite to close it remotely
My wife works nights so I have a mimolite to disable the upstairs doorbell while she's sleeping during the day. It sends our phones alerts if the doorbell is rung while silenced
There is no 2 device single gang zwave switch on the market at the moment. Most people here either:
I was fortunate to have double gang boxes in my house, so I was able to use the seperate GE light and fan switches. Both work well.
In the spirit of LED related advice: replacing your ceiling fan bulbs with 60w LED equivalents makes a world of difference in lighting quality in the room. But so far the only candelabra LEDS I've found that don't have interference issues are the Philips bulbs. Best upgrade I did was to put Philips LEDs and the Lutron Maestro controller on all our fans. Separate control of lights and fan, and the Philips LEDs dim fairly well.
Lutron MA-LFQHW-WH Maestro Fan Control and Dimmer Kit, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MOIDA8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_K-cuyb0AP1JZN
Philips 458687 60W Equivalent Dimmable B12 Decorative Candle LED Light Bulb with Warm Glow Effect (4-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0191YKS0C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_daduyb5K0AK1R
Note: I tried the LOHAS bulbs and their brightness and color temp choices are excellent, but horrible interference. Couldn't operate the Lutron switches if a LOHAS bulb was switched on. If you don't have any devices where interference might matter, check out the LOHAS bulbs.
GE switches are what I recommend.
They have switches, On/Off.
They have dimmers, On/Off and dim brighten (hold up to brighten or hold down to dim not too hard)
They have fan controller. Four speeds, low, medium, high and off. (sorry, no reverse)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0035YRCR2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486773955&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ge+zwave+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=41bCFFIGx8L&ref=plSrch
You might want to reconsider the double triple tap option. It nice to be able to control something unrelated using a "secret switch". Triple tap to restart a computer by chance. Triple tap to turn off all the light in your place.
I only have one of the homeseer switches and don't regret the purchase. My switch control the lights in our loft (on/off/dim/brighten), double tap controls lights that are connected to a plugin module. Triple tap is used to play a test sound that I use to test the volume of house alerts.
It's great that you are thinking of other folks who will be using the system. Not everyone wants to pull out a phone to turn on a light.
Edit.
I prefer dimmers to on/off switches. The light ramps up gracefully. Now, I find the on/off to be very jarring.
Motion sensors, I've found the monoprice units to be just fine. They've been reliable and include a temperature sensor. I've had a few of these for years and have yet to replace a battery. The best price I've found on theses.
https://www.monoprice.com/mobile/product/details/15271?maincategoryid=122&categoryid=12212&subcategoryid=1091804&cpncd=
Looks like part of this set. It's a pretty cute way to easily tell the difference between the hanging chain controlling the fan vs. the light.
This with this and this will do what you are doing without the soldering iron.
I've got a fake wemo device defined, that triggers the broadlink to send RF or IR commands to any compatible device.
This, these, and these work really well for us.
I have z-wave GE wall switches that work fine. You can usually find something in the amazon reviews that will indicate what success (or lack of it) other people have had. Lurking this sub is another good way to see what works for others.
As sauky said, check the smartthings list on the st website
The GE switches and dimmers were fussy getting them "paired" with the hub. But I have probably five different brands of stuff and none of it was immune to pairing troubles. I would just make sure whatever you get has favorable reviews.
GE: [zwave] (https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2) or [zwave+] (https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R) and a [slave switch] (https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-STANDALONE-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ).
Edit: where were you planning on putting the motion sensor? GE/Jasco has combined motion sensing switches that work quite well out. 26931 and 26933 are the product numbers.
New Model: GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Controls Fan Speed ONLY, Works with Amazon Alexa (Hub Required), 14287 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Y0gNAb47CJ3KD
You can change any household light fixture for any other. The only issue is the footprint of the fixture. You may have to do a spackle repair or paint the area that was once covered by the fixture but no longer is. You may also have to install an appropriate mounting box depending on how the flouresenct was installed; Flourescent fixtures are typically not mounted on a box whereas flush mount fixtures are. You won't have to damage the ceiling to switch from one to the other. If it's gonna be an actual chandelier, you'll want a box that's made to handle more weight, like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00027EWNW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1412468766&sr=8-2
This box can be installed from below through a hole which is the same size as the box itself.
If I understand correctly, you have a 3-way switch setup controlling the light/fan, where there's two switches that control the same fixture. This shouldn't be an issue if you swapped the light for the fan wiring it the same way.
Did you change anything at the switch? Have you flipped both switches to make sure it's on?(had to ask)
I'd check there's still power getting to the red wire in the ceiling box, you can get a non-contact voltage tester, or a multimeter for <$20.
If you still have power controlled by the switches, I'd try bypassing the controller for the remote. There should be 4 wires going into it, ground(bare or green), neutral(white), fan power(black), and light power(blue). Tie the black and blue wires together with the red in the box, and the rest normally.
If you are not super comfortable with electricity and wiring, and there's power getting to the red wire in the ceiling, just return the fan for a new one, as that's what you'd have to do anyway if the controller is bad.
Side note: Always turn off the breaker when working on your wiring, and you should switch the ceiling box for one that's meant to support a fan. Depending on where the original box is in relation to the joists, you want one like this or this. The plastic ones that are nailed to the side of the joist offer to much movement. Not only will it wear the bearings in the motor prematurely, but you risk it falling.
My preference is smart switches. $34 on amazon. Bulbs go bad, lamps change. A switch will last longer and is universal. You could also go with a outlet for similar price. Plus with a bulb the device needs power all the time, so if the switch gets turned off your routine wont work properly.
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Switch-Z-Wave/dp/B0035YRCR2
If you google "zwave switch" (not dimmer) you'll find tons. Not to sound mean, but did you try searching?
There are also plenty of zigbee or wifi switches (not dimmers) out there as well.
Also, if you want a fan controller that can handle both the light and the fan, you can put something in the box above the fan, though it looks like this one is discontinued. You may be able to find something similar:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton-Bay-Wink-Enabled-White-Universal-Ceiling-Fan-Premier-Remote-Control-99432/206591100?keyword=206591100
You shouldn't need to cut the ceiling. I installed a fan in my living room by moving the old can light out of the way and using a screw type fan box. And I have no attic access above my living room.
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https://www.amazon.com/Westinghouse-Lighting-0110000-Saf-T-Brace-Ceiling/dp/B00027EWNW/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=screw+fan+box&qid=1562467536&s=hi&sr=1-1
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You should be able to do it all through that hole.
You can still get light and fan control without a pull cord if they only ran a single hot. Just buy a fan with a remote, or add one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Westinghouse-7787500-Wireless-Ceiling-Control/dp/B000WEIJ8O/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542312275&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=westinghouse+fan+remote+control
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Control-Z-Wave-12730-Amazon/dp/B00PYMGVVQ
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-VRF01-1LZ-Capable-Control-Almond/dp/B001HT4M48
This is what I use:
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-VRF01-1LZ-Capable-Control-Almond/dp/B001HT4M48
With a standard ceiling fan, I set the fan on high at its switch/pull chain and this can make it high/med/low
/b
You can add a remote kit to any ceiling fan install then buy a Bond Smart Home puck. It learns the rf frequencies from the remote and makes your fan "smart "
https://bondhome.io
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Ceiling-Fan-Remote-Control/dp/B001I1M95E/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1543293378&amp;sr=8-12&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=ceiling+fan+remote+control+kit
How about if you use a smart switch (https://www.amazon.com/GE-12722-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0035YRCR2) ? You can use as many regular bulbs you want, and to configure you would be configuring only 1 device (the switch) instead of each bulb
A couple of simple Zwave switches will fit there no problem. I've been slowing replacing all the
switches in my house with them
FYI, the paddle-style GE/Jasco binary switches also have an air-gap. So, pulling it out is another way to reset the switch and is probably easier than flipping a breaker.
I'm still not sure why you would just replace the existing light switches with Z-Wave smart switches. You would be able to use whatever bulbs you wanted. Any time a bulb went bad you wouldn't have to spring for $30-$50 for a single bulb.
And if the owner didn't like the smart lighting, you could leave in the existing switches, or worst case replacement them with dumb switches just as you planned.
Maybe I'm not understanding something. Could you help explain why you went with all of the bulbs over the switches? I'm not seeing any advantage in doing so.
z-wave.
You could do it one of a couple of ways. Both ways would have you installing a z-wave light switch to replace your existing one, soemething like
http://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control-Switch/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1414373746&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=z-wave+light+switch
Then you could either get a lamp modules for the lights, like this
http://www.amazon.com/GE-Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0013V6S0Q
but that would add a lot of bulk to your setup, so instead i would probably look at replacing your power outlet iwth a zwave outlet like
http://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-Receptacle/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1414373786&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=z-wave+outlet
So once you pair the switch and the outlet, when you pressed the switch it would not only power on your existing lights, but also turn on/off the top receptacle of the outlet as well
I have one 4-way setup in my house; I used the GE zwave light switch and 2 add-on switches. One main switch and then two add-on switches will run you less than $100.
Might I ask what is keeping you from using an entire switch replacement? Not sure what country your in, but there are plenty available on Amazon.
Installation isn't hard per say, but if you don't feel comfortable its certainly not worth electrocuting yourself or having a fire hazard. It mostly involves cutting power off at the breaker, confirming power is off at the switch, removing the 3 wires from the existing switch and moving them over to their appropriate location. Now, many z-wave switches require a neutral wire, depending on the age of your residence this may or may not be an issue. If you do have a neutral wire it won't be connected to the existing switch, you will likely have to unbundle it from the back of the receptacle box.
This is a on/off zwave switch, it sounds like you are using phillips hue bulbs in the receptacles. In this case you don't want a dimmer, the dimming is done internally on the bulbs circuitry
http://www.amazon.com/GE12722-Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1454264957&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=z+wave+switch
This is a dimmer zwave switch, this would be good for incandescent bulbs, some dimmable cfl and LED bulbs will work but you will likely need to look at compatibility. Some dimmable cfl/led don't play well with certain switches, you might get inconsistent dimming performance, buzzing or flickering as most common side effects of a poorly matched bulb.
http://www.amazon.com/2gig-WD500Z-1-Z-Wave-Dimmer-White/dp/B00E1OVFAK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1454264957&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=z+wave+switch
Edit: Adding a few Amazon links for example w/ explaination
GE's toggle-style switches (12727, switch; 12728, add-on switch; 12729, dimmer) will fit into an existing toggle setup, but they don't stay up and down like a regular toggle switch does. They're always pointing straight out in the middle and you press them up or down to turn the light on and off (or hold the dimmer up or down to brighten and dim, respectively). They return to their center position as soon as you let go.
I like the decora series a little better (12722, switch; 12723, add-on switch; 12724, dimmer). They have a little LED on them that indicates the current status of the light. The toggle-style switches don't have any indication of whether they're on or off, which is kind of a bummer for outside lights.
One thing to be aware of for the add-on switches: they require a traveler wire, but can only be paired with GE primary switches. The traveler doesn't carry full line voltage; it's just used for the add-on switch to signal the primary when the add-on's been pressed.
There are no SmartThings branded switches. SmartThings is a central hub that is capable of controlling a vast array of third-party smart home devices. When you link it with Google Home, voice commands to the Home will be sent to the SmartThings hub, which will then trigger the smart home device based on how you set it up in the SmartThings app.
For example, you have a smart light switch installed in your kitchen that is labeled "Kitchen Lights" in the SmartThings app. When you say "Hey Google, turn off Kitchen Lights" the SmartThings hub will trigger the smart light switch to the "off" position. No need for smart bulbs, just swap out your current "dumb" light switch for a smart one and you'll be able to control your light fixture.
I personally have several GE 12722 Z-Wave Switches installed in my apartment, which are controlled by SmartThings and Google Home. The light fixtures have regular, run-of-the-mill LED bulbs in them. I issue voice commands like "Turn on/off Kitchen Lights" or "Turn on/off Bedroom Lights" and the switches activate near-instantly. Delay can be measured in milliseconds. Much better than the laggy IFTTT.
Check out the Works with SmartThings page to see the vast multitude of smart home devices that can be controlled by the hub.
GE Z-Wave Plus Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Controls Fan Speed ONLY, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Zwave Hub Required- Works with SmartThings Wink and Alexa, 14287 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_sj1-BbZ9CRKJM
I have two of these controlling ceiling fans. They work great.
GE Z-Wave Plus Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Controls Fan Speed ONLY, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Zwave Hub Required- Works with SmartThings Wink and Alexa, 14287 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FKG.AbWW6XQEJ
To my knowledge you aren't supposed to use a dimmer on a fan
There is a fan bracket available for this very thing.
You slip this tube up into the void and extend it from joist to joist by screwing it out (like a shower tension rod) and the ends are pronged to grab the joists.
Then the box screws into this bar.
https://www.rona.ca/en/saf-t-brace-35425051
https://www.lowes.ca/ceiling-fan-mounting-accessories/raco-old-work-ceiling-fan-brace-and-box-kit_g1543999.html
https://www.amazon.com/Westinghouse-Lighting-0110000-Saf-T-Brace-Ceiling/dp/B00027EWNW
I'd toss the plastic boxes and replace with fan rated just the same.
I don't trust those plastic ones with 2 nails. This is much better;http://www.amazon.com/Westinghouse-Lighting-0110000-Saf-T-Brace-Ceiling/dp/B00027EWNW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1412997716&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ceiling+fan+box
Hope that the wire(s) that goes to the existing recess light are long enough to reach the new junction box. All junction boxes have to be accessible. NEC Article 100 def. Accessible (as applied to wiring methods). Capable of
being removed or exposed without damaging the building
structure or finish or not permanently closed in by the structure or finish of the building. NEC 314.29 Boxes, Conduit Bodies, and Handhole Enclosures
to Be Accessible. Boxes, conduit bodies, and handhole
enclosures shall be installed so that the wiring contained
in them can be rendered accessible without removing
any part of the building or structure, or, in underground
circuits, without excavating sidewalks, paving, earth, or
other substance that is to be used to establish the finished
grade.
You may need to place the new box to the side a few inches from where you want to, so the wires will reach. You could abandon the recess up in the attic. Another box no one has suggested using is a ceiling fan box. This will put zero load on any sheet rock patch. You might be able to come up with a way to attach the sheet rock patch to the box bar.
These look like the kind of things you might be looking for:
Leviton RTF01-10W Decora Illumatech Quiet Fan Speed Control
Leviton RTD01-10W IllumaTech 1.5A 300W Rotary Combo Fan Speed Dimmer Control
Though you would need them to be 220VAC and correct amperage/wattage rated.
No, it isn't safe to use a light dimmer on a fan. I'm picturing a ceiling fan not a portable, for that you need something like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002YWN7W/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1405243052&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SL75. Sorry if the link is screwy, I'm on mobile.
http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-MA-LFQHW-WH-Maestro-Control-Dimmer/dp/B000MOIDA8
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-MA-LFQHW-WH-Maestro-Control-Dimmer/dp/B000MOIDA8
Just be aware that these don't with with LED's
https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.1000475413.html?eid=PS_GO_140203__ALL_PLA-526641&amp;pid=1000475413&amp;gclid=CjwKEAjwguu5BRDq8uSKhaKIzDkSJACQ7WJl-jjGMIUC3sIbiacTETanNkIBLTR5d0TL3SGUThNRXRoCghnw_wcB
http://www.amazon.com/Westinghouse-7787500-Ceiling-Light-Control/dp/B000WEIJ8O
http://m.homedepot.com/p/Hampton-Bay-Universal-Ceiling-Fan-Wireless-Wall-Control-68109/205846346
Just search wireless fan control. There are probably 100 other options as well.
No. That is just my personal usage.
There are other options. Probably a good choice GE Switches.
If you don't want added automation, I believe the GE Remote should be able to join and group the switches and then work as remote.
Redwood: your idea is great for the light. If anyone here also wanted to control the fan speeds as well, this kit is reasonably priced:
https://www.amazon.com/Flower-Angel-Universal-Ceiling-Control/dp/B001I1M95E
Thinking you'll want a tool like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Zji6A5T8As&amp;t=1m12s and use the remote control fan
What about a universal wireless remote?
Universal Ceiling Fan Remote Control Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001I1M95E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6ii7BbHJ2ZKJ8
Yes, it would be. https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Ceiling-Fan-Remote-Control/dp/B001I1M95E
[on/off switch ](GE Lighting Control On/Off Switch, Z-Wave, In-Wall, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12722 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_N.QGybF1J18NP)
[dimmer](GE Smart Dimmer, Z-Wave, In-Wall, 12724, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12724 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JaRGyb67MY877)
Here you go. You can switch the items on those pages to find the toggles as well as fan controls etc
Your best solution is to replace the in wall switch you're using with a Z-Wave one. This way you can still operate the lamp from the switch AND still control it through the app/Alexa. If you wanted to get fancy, there's a version of this switch that has a dimmer built in as well.
https://smile.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Switch-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484978461&amp;sr=8-1-fkmr0&amp;keywords=ge+zwave+switch+12724
You could do this using zwave devices. It will cost some money up front but you'll have a solid base to build out more complex home automation tasks if you want to.
You can turn any computer into a local "hub" with a Zwave USB dongle. This one is pricey but works really well. Plug that into a spare laptop lying around the house or buy a Raspberry PI.
Install the Home Assistant package on the computer or PI that you plugged the dongle into. This makes it easy to send and receive signals from Zwave devices without having to learn a bunch of low level APIs. You can write automation commands using YAML markup or write complex, custom tasks using Python. Home Assistant is just a bundle of open source free software, so I don't think of it as a "service", but you could roll your own software if you like that replaces it. It all runs locally, not in the cloud, so you own and control it.
Now you can buy any Zwave switch you want. GE has a bunch of reasonable priced switches.
You can get an "add on" switch that does not hook into your home power but controls smart light bulbs like Hue using over the air signals.
Or you can buy a real switch that does control existing lights through the power in your home -- this will let you send signals to your switch using your Home Assistant "hub" to turn lights on or off and dim them without having to replace existing bulbs.
Have fun.
https://shop.smartthings.com/#!/products/ge-in-wall-on-slash-off-switch
plus
https://shop.smartthings.com/#!/products/aeon-labs-minimote
Way cheaper if you buy them from Amazon, of course:
https://www.amazon.com/GE12722-Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0035YRCR2
https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSA03202-v1-Minimote/dp/B00KU7ERAW
I use these, and they work perfectly.
I would suggest the GE Zwave switch mentioned above if you have a capable hub (Wink/Vera/Smartthings, etc.), or if you really want to fine tune control, you can use a GE Zwave Fan speed control switch. IMO, both are better options than the Wemo.
Links:
https://www.amazon.com/GE12722-Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467068632&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=ge+zwave+switch
https://www.amazon.com/GE-12730-Z-Wave-Smart-Control/dp/B00PYMGVVQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467068575&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=ge+smart+fan+control
/u/Alwayssunnyinarizona raises a lot of good points as usual. I would also add that if you ever outgrow ST, you can always integrate it with Home Assistant and keep ST as the basic device manager.
Lights (dimming): https://www.amazon.com/GE-Dimmer-Z-Wave-12724-Amazon/dp/B006LQFHN2
Lights (non-dimming): https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Switch-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2
Fan: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Control-Z-Wave-12730-Amazon/dp/B00PYMGVVQ
All three of those work with ST, but do indeed require neutral wires.
Do you have a model switch you recommend? I was looking at these but they seem pretty pricey
If you have a neutral wire I recommend these:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Required-SmartThings-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2
I doubt leaving the lights on is skyrocketing your electricity bill though. Another option would be LED bulbs.
Yeah, sorry, I didn't know how to phrase that properly. I meant I replaced the switches in a 4 way circuit.
It's not the standard 1 4-way and 2 3-way switches, though.
One of these - https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2
And two add on switches - https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-Lighting-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ
So I twisted together the hot line and a traveler to send power to box 2 where I installed the primary switch.
Right now I also have the load line in box three twisted with a traveler to send that to box 2 as well.
So the circuit should be only operable by one switch now, or so I'd think.
Edit: this circuit previously had a 4 way switch in box 2 and 3 way switches in boxes 1 and 3
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Switch-Z-Wave/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481592836&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ge+zwave
they're pretty inexpesive and reliable. There are cheaper, but I've had issues with some of them so I've decided to just go with these when I change out switches.
If you have 3-way switches (though you didn't list any) you need the companion switch and some rewiring of the boxes. If you're handy it's not too bad. If you don't know the difference between the white wire and black wire, I'd spend some time on youtube before get too far into pulling the boxes apart.
Another important thing to mention on the wiring front: If you have an older house, you need to make sure that you have a neutral wire in all the boxes that you want to put a smart switch in. Newer houses will have them because the electrical code was updated to require them - that wasn't in place (or followed) until 20-25 years ago.
First off, welcome -- it's a fun ride!
Re: Dimmers/Plugs/Etc
Caseta is nice, I have a couple of switches and they work great. Especially if you want to create 3-way switches without wiring. What I mean is that you can just replace one hard-wired switch with a smart switch and then use the Caseta Pico for the secondary location (which just adheres to the wall).
Just some thought starters as you explore further -- for hardwired switches, in addition to Lutron, I have had a ton of success with the GE/Jasco Z-Wave switches.
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Switch-Z-Wave/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479395673&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=ge+smart+switch
I have the generic on/off switch, dimmer switch and fan switch by them (more on the dimmer function later).
For my plug-in switches, currently I have a couple different ones I use for Christmas lights, and a couple of lamps and a floor fan.
My favorite is this random one I found by Inovelli or Show Home (not sure -- looks like Inovelli is a distributor or something):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Z-Wave-On-Off-Smart-Home-Plug-Control-2-Outlets-w-1-Module-Works-with-Alexa-/361826630198
I like it because you can control two outlets individually vs just one like all the other ones and it's around the same price too.
I also own a Leviton plug-in which works great too, but only controls one outlet -- still no complaints:
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-VRPA1-1LW-Capable-Appliance-Module/dp/B00JFF1WP8/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479395904&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=leviton
Ok, now on to your question about blog/forum/guide, etc...
Here's a good place to start:
http://wiki.winkathome.net/Main_Page
I also enjoy reading the Wink Group comments on Facebook -- I can't remember the name of the group, but if you just search for Wink Home Automation, I think it shows up. That group has been awesome for learning new things. It's a fairly large group too.
Lastly, I think I understand what you're asking, but if not, I apologize. How the GE Dimmers work (and I'm assuming the other ones too) is that you can use the switch manually like any dimmer switch -- hold up and it gets brighter, hold down and it gets dimmer, tap the up button and the light turns on to the last setting you left it at, tap the bottom button and the light turns off.
You can also set the percentage (or approximate, I don't recall it having actual numbers -- it's more a sliding scale) you'd like it to go to from within the Wink app (ex: have your light come on to around 75% at 8pm, then dim to 50% at 10pm).
Make sense?
Hope this helps.
I kept forgetting to turn on/off my porch lights so I installed GE Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Control On/Off Switch, In-Wall, 12722 and enabled two IFTTT recipes If sunrise, then turn off Porch Lights switch and Turn on lights at sunset. It's fantastic.
I have a few of these and they have worked well https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035YRCR2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
The device in your picture is called a 3-gang plate.
My solution when I needed to do this in my home was to get a Samsung Smartthings hub. It's compatible with Alexa plus a ton of other stuff so it's a sensible purchase. I highly recommend it.
Once you have Smartthings, you can get any z-wave or zigbee devices and they can be controlled either through the Smartthings app or through Alexa.
GE Z-Wave switches: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035YRCR2/
3-Gang Paddle plate:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000V2UMU/
A universal kit will do that for you.
Another option is a smart switch.
If buying from amazon, always use Smile:
https://smile.amazon.com/Ceiling-Fan-Pull-Chain-Set/dp/B00FMK9ACM
edit: also, $2 cheaper from Lowes:
http://www.lowes.com/pd/Harbor-Breeze-7-in-Brushed-Nickel-and-White-Metal-Pull-Chain/4745127
For those non-sports fans:
http://www.amazon.com/Ceiling-Fan-Pull-Chain-Set/dp/B00FMK9ACM
Here ya go
right here on amazon is where i got mine. i like them. they have a nice weight to them.
They make fans that sense moisture and turn off after the room/vent/ducts are dry.
Humidity sensing fans on Amazon.
Those are mostly over $100, but here's a switch that senses moisture and automatically turns on the exhaust. Pretty cool, I didn't know this existed until you asked! Now I'm totally getting one.
Here is a wall switch that also senses humidity.
Just to make sure you aren't trying to reinvent the wheel. Well this work for your purposes http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-IPHS5-1LW-Humidity-Sensor-Control/dp/B00H3QQD64
Humidistat for exhaust fans
or you could put your exhaust on a timer. Or if you can work those Arduino/Raspberry Pi things I'm sure you can make something work, but I can't help with that.
Just a thought... Have you considered using a fan that employs both a humidity sensor and motion sensor simultaneously (e.g.)?
Alternatively, you could use a standard exhaust fan, combined with a humidity-sensing switch (e.g.). The switch contains an on/off button, so you can still control the fan manually.
I added a fan to our bathroom (5x6), I went with a Panasonic 80CFM. It works great. I mounted it outside the tub/shower area in the middle of the bathroom. The fan keeps the condensation off the window and the mirror, although, some does build up directly above the showerhead. We have an older house and the ceiling in the shower is lower than the rest of the bathroom.
Also, grab one of these - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H3QQD64/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
There's no point of installing a fan if you dont turn it on...
Edit - get the Panasonic, super quiet.
The closest out of the box solution I've seen is the Hunter SIMPLEconnect but it's bluetooth and not WiFi or Echo enabled.
99107 is a weird component.
99107 receives BT from the simpleconnect wifi app, then relays RF to a 99199 receiver.
99158 and 99198 are RF controls that communicate directly with a 99199 receiver.
https://www.amazon.com/Hunter-99107-SimpleConnect-Programmable-Control/dp/B00UQOP2JO
https://www.hunterfan.com/ceiling-fan-accessories/universal-receiver---4-speed-99199
hunter still has 2 simpleconnect apps. simpleconnect wifi and simpleconnect.
I have 3 of the Hunter fans. They replaced older RF remote based fans that all had in wall mounted controls. I replaced them with a Hunter control that wires in the same way and works great with the fan.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WLM8LBG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
That's just an on/off switch - full fan control with speeds is not supported by the caseta line.
Edit: for example, this GE z-wave fan switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTKQTTV/
/u/BreakfastBeerz is correct. Get a "fan control" z-wave switch so you can better control the fan since the speed is determined by voltage to the motor so this specific "fan control" is needed.
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Controls-Required-SmartThings-14287/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=sr_1_1?crid=36QO1KOU9KARE&keywords=ge+fan+control+zwave&qid=1562872139&s=gateway&sprefix=ge+fan+contro%2Caps%2C167&sr=8-1
This is what I used. It is a dimmer switch that has preset settings at like 33, 66, 100 % power or something like that to trigger the speed threshold settings of a fans low medium and high. I used it with a smarthings hub and echo. https://www.amazon.com/GE-Controls-Required-SmartThings-14287/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1549488790&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=ge+ceiling+fan+smart+switch
No
If you have a switch for the fan and a switch for the light, you are better off with 2 zwave switches, like these:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Controls-Required-SmartThings-14287/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1537134869&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=ge+zwave+fan+switch
and
https://www.amazon.com/Repeater-Enabled-SmartThings-HomeSeer-Inovelli/dp/B01N235ROS/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1537134836&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=inovelli+fan+switch
That would give you much better control over everything. For me and all my fans, I have exactly one control. So I need this to control fan/lights unless I want to run a secondary wire back (which I don't)
I'm using these for the fans https://www.amazon.com/GE-Controls-Required-SmartThings-14287/dp/B06XTKQTTV
what about something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Controls-Required-SmartThings-14287/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526997816&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=ge+z+wave+fan+controller
So currently, I have one z-wave fan speed controller installed: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XTKQTTV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I was looking at getting this one for the bedroom where I would prefer to have a remote (although it uses zigbee, it is supported by zigbee2mqtt which I am using):
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton-Bay-Universal-Ceiling-Fan-Wireless-Wall-Switch-68109/205846346?MERCH=REC-_-PIPHorizontal2_rr-_-206591100-_-205846346-_-Nhttps://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton-Bay-Universal-Wink-Enabled-White-Ceiling-Fan-Premier-Remote-Control-99432/206591100?cm_mmc=SEM%7CG%7CBase%7CD27L%7C27-20_CEILING_FANS%7CNA%7CDSA%7c71700000038715506%7c58700004243495124%7c39700035278826584&gclid=CjwKCAjwiZnnBRBQEiwAcWKfYoB74QoAKRuieWiAgpXCWa0EHvxcQRIh168qS5wm_M7SnFNPZb_YyRoCIZ0QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
&#x200B;
I would also highly recommend checking out the following two blog post:
Automating a Multi-speed Fan
Convert your pull-chain ceiling fan to z-wave
Yeah, 2 min is too fast. You can really slow things down with a router controller. The downside is that it slows down the fan too, so you have to agitate manually if your beans won’t circulate. I don’t mind that though.
I got this one. Cheap, effective. So far so good.
https://www.amazon.com/Hongville-HV-FSC-Variable-Controller-Hydroponics/dp/B074D35YB8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=router+controller+hongville&amp;qid=1559313241&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Single-Pole-PD-FSQN-WH-Assistant/dp/B07N1GXM38/
https://www.amazon.com/MOES-Ceiling-Control-Compatible-Required/dp/B07HQ95N69/
???
don't see why it would be any different than controlling a ceiling fan.
I'm confused, because if there was a ceiling fan there before, the box should already be in the ceiling? Did someone remove the fan and the box?
This is what you'd normally use for a fan: http://www.amazon.com/Westinghouse-Lighting-0110000-Saf-T-Brace-Ceiling/dp/B00027EWNW
If you just want a box to mount there, you can use something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Carlon-BH234R-Outlet-8-Inch-Length/dp/B0007N738M/
(Note: there are much cheaper versions of the second one available from hardware stores)
Ditch the plastic box, it's not meant for a fan. Depending on the setup, you can use this without ripping down drywall or going into the attic. I've used three of these in my house:
Westinghouse Lighting 0110000 Saf-T-Brace for Ceiling Fans, 3 Teeth, Twist and Lock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00027EWNW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_14UxzbKEG8QQ8
The easiest brace to install has two arms that twist to lock in position:
http://www.amazon.com/Westinghouse-Lighting-0110000-Saf-T-Brace-Ceiling/dp/B00027EWNW/
There's also this one for only $37. But a lot of reviews talk about interference and issues with LEDs. That's too bad, otherwise it'd be perfect.
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-MA-LFQHW-WH-Maestro-Control-Dimmer/dp/B000MOIDA8
This is the one I'm using: Lutron MA-LFQHW-WH Maestro Fan Control and Dimmer Kit, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MOIDA8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_c29aAbQJ43KWN
I just added this switch. I think its 2hat your describing.
Lutron MA-LFQHW-WH Maestro Fan Control and Dimmer Kit, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MOIDA8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XplxCbBR8Y0D3
Caseta has non-dimming switches that work with HomeKit. The more reasonably priced one requires neutral but the hard to find one doesn't. (For some reason it's on Amazon for $58 instead of $70+ as I write this)
These can be used to turn a fan on and off, but not control the fan speed.
I wish there was a Caseta version of this combined controller (for a reasonable price) that can work with one wire to the canopy.
I put in these switches when i rewired mine.
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-MA-LFQHW-WH-Maestro-Control-Dimmer/dp/B000MOIDA8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501788305&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=lutron+ceiling+fan+dimmer
You can control them independently and even dim and change fan speed. Quite nice.
I'm in the same predicament. The main area lights in my rooms are integrated into ceiling fans.
I sent a message to Lutron about the lack of fan/light controls in their Caséta lineup, pointing out that they already have a perfect product for this in their Maestro line (Lutron MA-LFQHW-WH Fan Control and Dimmer Kit). All that thing needs is to be integrated into Caséta and then it's perfect for HomeKit.
I'm hoping they'll address this early next year for CES or something.
Any fan with an AC motor will generally be compatible with any fan switch, smart or dumb. You might have to ignore some instructions if the fan is set up to work with a remote or a single pair of wires.
How many conductors do you have going to the wall box? You'd need three plus ground if you want independent control of light dimming and fan speed, unless you get this specific Maestro switch that comes with a relay that goes in the canopy: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MOIDA8/
That switch is definitely compatible with the fan you linked.
I have 3 ceiling fans, 2 with Hue lights in them. I use this Lutron switch for all 3 ceiling fans. The description says it's meant for halogen bulbs and won't work with LED/CFL, but it works with mine. Only downside is that if you use the switch to turn on/off the light they flicker a LOT as they're turning on/off. Like a full on strobe effect for a couple of seconds.
It comes with a canopy module that you install in the junction box above the ceiling fan, which means you have to uninstall the ceiling fan to get this to work. There may be better solutions for this available now.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WEIJ8O/
This is what I use when I don't have two switchable hot wires for a ceiling fan. Also, make sure the box is braced while you have it down.
Have you considered using one of these?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WEIJ8O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I have a few fans in my house that replaced lights, and I was not about to fish romex up walls and across ceilings through joists, etc. I got a few of these, and they work awesome.
In the world of tablets a used iPad or bare bones Android would cost less than a real remote and do other things like angry bird on the toilet.
Plus I just found this GE remote
There aren't any exact z-wave replacements for a single gang, dual load lighting/fan speed controller like that. You do have a couple options though...
Hope that helps!
You'll have to connect separate switches for the motor and the light. This may require installation of a larger wall switch electrical box (e.g. if you have a 1-Gang box, replace it with a 2-Gang box) and/or
running additional electrical wire to the fan from the wall box.
I've only seen two options for controlling fan motors: the GE 12730 or the Leviton VRF01-1LZ. There are a bunch of options for the light, but the HomeSeer HS-WD100+ seems to be the current favorite.
Technically you can. But this is also assuming that you have a separate wire for the fan control to your wall switch. This way, you can have a separate ZWave switch to control just your fan.
Alternatively, if you dont have that separate wire for the fan control in your wall switch, I would just get a universal remote control for your fan and call it a day. (https://www.amazon.com/Flower-Angel-Universal-Ceiling-Control/dp/B001I1M95E)
I think the OP's solution helps with fans that are also lights if I'm not mistaken. It looks like a hack to control one of those universal fan remotes using the Arduino and SmartThings.
I'd love to do something similar as I have five fans in the house that I'd like to control separate from the attached lights. I can add these (http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Ceiling-Fan-Remote-Control/dp/B001I1M95E) but that doesn't get me z-wave.
Remote
vs Wall Switch
what do you suggest?
I don't know. I grew up in the US, where every fan has a chain. I'm not against running wire, but it's a bit inconvenient. There's also another solution, though.
I just did all 3 bedrooms in my house with this:
http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Thermostatic-Ceiling-Control-Conversion/dp/B001RJ8X0M/ref=pd_sim_60_2?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41WNDd2QxYL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=165QQHATDRWQX9HPEW10
Its half the price, light dimmer, built in thermostat and better light timer...
oh well. each room gets its own thermostat this way.
Very very much so! Our bedroom light came with one and I freaking love that thing. You can get the conversion kit on amazon actually. We have the same remote, and the thermostat part is great for night!
You will need two things primarily.
One, a SmartHub.
I would go the z-wave route unless you're a huge fan of apple's HomeKit in which case you will want a AppleTV 4. I prefer SmartThings myself, but Wink is also a good option.
Two, Smart Switches. If you go the Z-Wave route, the options are nearly endless. LINEAR and GE makes Z-wave switches that are about $30/piece. Just remember that you need neutral wires in your wall to use them. AeoTec makes some that hide behind your existing switches. Tons of people make the kind that plug into your outlets so you can control things that are plugged into them. Or you can replace the whole receptacle with a new z-wave outlet.
If you go the Apple HomeKit route check out iDevices. It's a bit more expensive, but runs on WiFi which is better than Bluetooth in most cases.
edit: words and stuff
Already good comments here, but TBF the best remote things are outlets and wall switches. That way if/when you hit a switch to turn something off the 'old' way it will still respond if you want it on.
Also, you need a hub. Smartthings or Wink.
The rest are worthless (Hue hub and all the other hubs). IMO Philips Hue is lame. If you want colored bulbs go get Sylvania lightify (cheaper, less crap in your house since it doesn't need its own hub).
Ideal starter setup would be an echo dot $50, a hub $100, two wall switches ($30ea) (for unswitched outlets) and a couple wall paddle switches ($30ea). That much hardware would set you back about $270, but would add a fair bit of fun and convenience.
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2
After buying some 'smart' bulbs early on in my home automation project, I've decided the batter way to go is smart SWITCHES. I'm using several flavors of these: https://www.amazon.com/GE12722-Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0035YRCR2
I'm not 100% sure what you're asking, but I use these GE Z-Wave light switches in my house and they work flawlessly. They are 'rocker' style so it can't be 'off' when it's 'on' if you know what I mean.
https://www.amazon.ca/GE-45609WB-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0035YRCR2
This is going to format like shit because I'm copying it straight from an email I wrote my sister.
The important bits: the hub is Samsung Smartthings, switches are mostly GE zwave switches, voice control provided by Amazon Echo.
Rolling it out across the whole house isn't easy or cheap, but it's worth it when you have someone over and you give the "turn on everything" command and you watch every light pop on, then do it in reverse.
This will get you started :)
>
> Switches: http://www.amazon.com/GE12722-Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0035YRCR2
>
> Add-on Switches (for 3+ way): http://www.amazon.com/GE-12723-Add-On-Switch/dp/B00RKJS8MQ
>
> Dimmer: http://www.amazon.com/GE-Z-Wave-Dimmer-In-Wall-12724/dp/B006LQFHN2
>
> Fan: http://www.amazon.com/GE-12730-Z-Wave-Smart-Control/dp/B00PYMGVVQ
>
> SmartThings: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Hub-2nd-Generation/dp/B010NZV0GE
>
> Door Locks: http://www.amazon.com/Schlage-Connect-Camelot-Touchscreen-Deadbolt/dp/B00AGK9KOG/ref=lp_511306_1_2?s=hardware&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1461284077&amp;sr=1-2
>
> Thermostat: http://www.amazon.com/Nest-Learning-Thermostat-Generation-Works/dp/B0131RG6VK/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1461284145&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=thermostat+smart
>
> Echo (for voice control): http://www.amazon.com/Amazon-SK705DI-Echo/dp/B00X4WHP5E/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1461284177&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=echo
>
There are other things like motion sensors and garage door controllers that start opening up some really cool "routines."
Not familiar with 'bipolar' as applied to light switches (transistors and moods, yes). If you're talking about three way switches, then you have to wire the WeMo as a single pole switch: hot, common, neutral. You will call the traveler wire but not connect it to the new switch.
Alternatively, you can go Z-Wave and get a master switch and then an add-on switch and maintain your current functionality. Downside (if you want to call it that) is that you need a Z-wave hub and can't connect directly through wifi.
Yes, something like this: www.amazon.com/GE12722-Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0035YRCR2
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2
I have had great luck with these. Your electrician will be able to install them without problem and they will work well with just about all the home automation hubs.
Just as a disclaimer, I haven't spent much time with centralized solutions. How does the cost compare to smart-switches? I imagine the entire solution would cost quite a bit more.
A truly internet independent switch would be from devices with Z-Wave, RF, ZigBee, X11. And the more current switches would be the network connected ones from Belkin, TP-Link, etc (pretty much anything with HomeKit, Alexa logo on the box).
The best thing about Home Assistant is that is in completely platform agnostic, so you can mix and match as need. I personally prefer z-wave switches for physical light switches. Ones from GE and Linear have really good build quality. I also use GE for some mains as well. These GE are good. The 3-way switches that pair with these are also dead simple to install as well.
Beyond that, its reasonably safe to use Wifi switches as well. Most switches can be remain within your local network. You can firewall those devices from sending out. Or if you want remote control, you can also always put your home automation on a separate subnet.
depending on your hub - I have smartthings
you should have several choices
you'll need to figure the max current draw of the fan or the HP
then install the appropriate switch
easiest would be the wall switch and some temp sensors, if it wil handle the load
I have the go control - originally for my old garage door (programmed as a momentary switch) - it will handle 20 amps and is cheap.
GE also has a 40 amp heavy zwave switch - for $150ish
with the smartthings hub you could program time on, time off , on for event, off for event , (event could be window opens , temp specified, etc) and then run time for specific period of time or if temp is satisfied with enough connected things you can control all kinds of things - fan included :)
good luck
direct load good for 20amps
GoControl Z-Wave Isolated Contact Fixture Module - FS20Z-1
https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Z-Wave-Isolated-Contact-Fixture/dp/B00ER6MH22/ref=pd_sim_60_3?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=YX3EFBFRGMTV783BT193
GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Switch, On/Off, In-Wall
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=pd_sim_60_3?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=BB38NVA9J8T5JFDE3QTJ
Incandescent - Minimum Load: 40W, Maximum Load: 960W
Motor – 1/2HP
Resistive – 1800W
GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting and Appliance Control, 40 Amp, Large Load, Direct-Wire, Indoor/Outdoor
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTCZZF0/ref=twister_B017SOTBJG?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Hello, I use home assistant with a Z-Stick. The following ge switch works really well. Instant updates on the hass ui. I hope to this helps.
GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Switch, On/Off, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12722 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pvUzzbDESE5HG
I have a Wink Hub 2 and a Ge Z-Wave Switch and set up a rule that if Ring detects motion to turn on porch lights.
You could use one of these, they are z-wave and work with SmartThings.
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Required-SmartThings-14294/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1537979219&sr=8-4&keywords=ge%2Bz-wave&th=1
It is just a paddle switch that triggers a relay and works with a mains load. I have several hooked up to my kitchen lights and dining room fan/light, both are 120v loads. The switch does require a Neutral wire (white wire) in order to stay powered for the transceiver, but it would be a drop in replacement rather than an attached actuator.
So what I was thinking of was like this switch, but maybe I was having a bit of a brain fart and confusing parts... This one is specifically designed for a multi speed ceiling fan type device. I had thought that there was a concern about wattages on a bathroom exhaust type fan too, but looking at this switch it specifically lists fans as compatible (at least as long as they are under 600w).
Edit: ah ha! The warning is to not use a standard dimmer switch to control fan speed... use a specific fan rated dimmer... or like the first link above.
This depends on if you currently have a Smart Hub yet or not. If you do, a simple and easy to use switch, would be the GE line of Z-wave switches:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491404479&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=Ge+z-wave+switch
However, if you don't have Wink, or Smartthings, and want homekit support, then the Lutron Caseta is probably your best bet. It isn't really complicated, it just looks that way at a glance. But its really just a dimmer switch.
I just replaced my dumb wall switches with this:
GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Light Switch, On/Off Paddle, In-Wall, White & Lt. Almond Paddles, Repeater & Range Extender, Zwave Hub Required- Works with SmartThings Wink and Alexa, 12722 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_j9XZDbN51E8C6
Sometimes the robot for my garage lights when the door opens after sunset is a bit slow, but I think that’s more to do with wink and not the switch.
For light switches: something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Switch-Z-Wave/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482171474&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Zwave+light+switch
It's definitely a switch and not a dimmer (specifically this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JjFwybQJGCRY8), leaving the light in didn't help, and the light works (comes on instantly) since I put the original switch back in place.
The biggest issue that I kept running into while trying to think this through - how do I keep power going to the hue or cree bulbs if the switch is in off position? The only workaround was to install a zwave on/off switch that would first trigger to ON and then enable the smart bulb. But then I realized that would double the cost of the setup. Another option was to use a z-wave inline switch that continuously provides power to the bulbs and also lets you toggle the switch. But then I would be tripling the cost. So finally I decided that I would go with just a set of zwave switches with dimmable LED bulbs.
If you want dimming capability - GE has zwave switches specifically marked as 'Dimmers'. They have several models. Fan Control, Dimmers, 3-way, 3-way add-on and also a simple ON/OFF switch.
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Switch-Z-Wave/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480974778&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=GE+z-wave+switch
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Switch-Z-Wave/dp/B0035YRCR2
>one or two pieces get out of sync. It's easily fixed but annoys my wife.
What's the easy fix?
Also I recommend these switches from GE. You can choose the different types of styles right there on the Amazon page.
I've used GE smart switches all around my house and been happy with the result. This is the basic type, but the whole product line works with SmartThings.
I don't have an alarm/siren, but the list of officially supported devices includes a couple of different options for sirens.
The newer ones are Z-Wave+, the older ones are just Z-Wave. I run the Leviton Decoras (Z-Wave+) for switches & dimmers. I've added a few of the new GE Fan Controllers, but those have had a rough time being detected correctly by OZCP / HASS.
When you say triggered, do you mean like when someone breaks into your house?
I have it currently setup so that when I get home, the garage door opens (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Iris-Z-Wave-Garage-Door-Controller-Works-with-Iris/50213045) and my interior lights turn on.
To get the lights to work, I have GE Z wave switches (https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2) and some GE Link LED bulbs (https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Connected-60-Watt-Equivalent/dp/B00NOL16K0/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478189524&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=ge+link).
I don't have any Hue products (yet) but I believe they require a hub to allow them to communicate to abode (not sure though)
**Requires Neutral wire.
There are some screw-in Z-Wave devices like that, but some of them have issues depending on what type of bulb you're using.
If the light is controlled by a switch and you have relatively modern wiring with neutral wires present in the switch box, you could also potentially use a Z-Wave switch like this.
Ah thanks! Now just to be clear, I am replacing the existing switches with a zwave switch like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035YRCR2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Which has specific slots on the back labeled "line" and "load" (see pic).
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61lvZWDXnsL._SL1280_.jpg
Do I have to match up the correct wires here (line to slot labeled "line", load wire to "load" slot) or does it not matter?
For dusk to dawn you can buy a $8 sensor from Lowes. I know it's fun to have everything on the Abode hub, but if all you're going to do is dusk to dawn, the sensor is easy. I have these on all exterior lights.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Woods-Hard-Wire-Photocell-Mini/999912897
Or you could change the light switch that controls the outside lights to a Zwave switch four about $38 and control it that way.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035YRCR2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
The GE 12722 is a normal on/off switch, will work with a fan or light, on/off only. They work great, although there is about a half-second delay between when you tap the switch and the light turns on/off, along with an audible click, which is kind of annoying.
The GE 14294 is a dimmer control, works with dimmable bulbs only, cannot be used with a ceiling fan except to control the lights. Press and hold up or down to change the light level. They work well, but I get some weird buzzing from dimmable LED's when they're set to lower levels like 10-20%.
The GE 14287 is the only one compatible with ceiling fans to control the fan speed. Low, Medium, and High settings, which are described as anything between 0-33% being Low, 33-66% is Medium, and 66%+ being High. Also press and hold to increase/decrease speed. I've had no issues with these, they work great in my bedroom to control the fan speed.
Yeah, you need all three to voice control your fireplace through that switch-
https://www.amazon.com/hw/smarthome/B0035YRCR2/requirements?ref=hsx_sh_rqp_dp_rq
You need - echo, hub and switch for a total of close to $300. 200 if you got an echo dot.
Not worth it when you can get actual fireplace remote for $75.
The extra $60 I talked about was to upgrade my non-Alexa compatible insteon hub, to the latest Alexa compatible version.
Smartthings is a great, simple way to do this, but it will require buying the hub. Instead of a light bulb, I'd just buy a light switch like this one from GE.
This will allow an easy setup for "Turn on at Sunset and off at sunrise" and will also integrate with Google Home pretty painlessly. May not be the cheapest way to go about it, but it's certainly easy, and it will allow for adding whatever other smart-switches, security sensors, etc. in the future.
It's not on sale right now, but here's one that's close: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0035YRCR2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492088899&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=ge+zwave+switch&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41bCFFIGx8L&amp;ref=plSrch
I've been thinking I may just buy a switch like this GE Z-Wave Wireless Switch and call it a day
Not, wifi as I wasn't thrilled with some of the options. So, I'm about to go down the Z-Wave route:
USB controller
and Light switch.
I'll be basing my setup off a Raspberry PI.
I control my lights the same way you want to, and I use these they work great
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_ph_1?qid=1449077425&amp;sr=sr-1&amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165&amp;keywords=z+wave+switch
I'm confused what you want. The GE z-wave switches work as a relay regardless if the light is on or off. It is a toggle panel so it is never "up" or "down". If you want to use the manually just click the top for on, or the bottom for off. All z-wave switches are pretty much like that. They click either up or down and then return to center. They don't disappear from the network just because the light is off. Are you saying you don't want the switch to turn the light off? Surely I am missing something here.
Why bother having a switch at all if you don't want it to control power to the light? That is what a switch does. It controls power to the circuit it is installed on. What else would it be useful for if it doesn't turn a circuit on or off?
Example:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035YRCR2/
That's probably the route I'm going to take.
and for context, I am 24 and the "apartment" in this case is my room at my folks house as I still live at home. No lease violations to worry about.
Now, if I purchase something with Z-Wave like this (https://amzn.com/B0035YRCR2), will I also have to buy a controller?
I'd prefer it to just work over WiFi which I know the WeMo switch will do but the GE one is a bit cheaper.
I have 4 bulbs in lamps that aren't on a switch and these work well because you just leave the lamp turned on. I have one switch that controls a smart bulb and I am considering changing to a smart switch like this https://amzn.com/B0035YRCR2 as it too easy for someone to turn off my bulb. I don't believe that the power drain is huge leaving the switch on at all times but don't have any equipment to measure the power usage.
https://www.familyhandyman.com/electrical/how-to-install-a-ceiling-fan-remote/view-all
https://smile.amazon.com/Universal-Ceiling-Fan-Remote-Control/dp/B00A2WU4CK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491010107&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ceiling+fan+remote+retrofit
well, I just learned which did which, but maybe this is a more modern facet of ceiling fans... but I guarantee this isn't all ceiling fans... (also, I like the new ones that have a lightbulb and fan toggle at the bottom of the chains... like these: https://www.amazon.com/Ceiling-Fan-Pull-Chain-Set/dp/B00FMK9ACM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468058025&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ceiling+fan+chains+and+pulls
Amazon Page 8c * 6 (48c)
Amazon has you covered
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FMK9ACM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
You might think about a humidity switch like the one below. I have a couple, and they work great. Comes on when the humidity in the bathroom increases. You can turn them on manually, too, when the “issue” isn’t humidity.
Leviton IPHS5-1LW Decora In-Wall Humidity Sensor & Fan Control , 3A, Single Pole, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H3QQD64/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_31NlDbCCTX16K
is this the kind of humidistat you were referring to?
I used these for all motion sensor switches and these for the humidity sensor fan switches.
I'm all for DIY and in most cases even prefer it over when something is available in retail but I think in this case something like this https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-IPHS5-1LW-Humidity-Sensor-Control/dp/B00H3QQD64/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1539796211&sr=1-1&keywords=humidity+fan+switch just seems much more sensible
Nabbed this: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-IPHS5-1LW-Humidity-Sensor-Control/dp/B00H3QQD64?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1
They're right that they can be a little finicky but I don't have any issues with the 2 that I bought. We have rocker switches next to them so they fit nicely in the covers we got
Hm... that sounds like a good idea. I'd presume it just runs off the 110v line?
What I'd need to figure out is how to turn it on with the main fan.
Here is the one I have
From the switch to the fan, is a trio of wires, one of which is, I believe the controller signal... I'd probably have to tap the controller on the fan to have it directly controlled...
Alternatively, I guess I could run a patch off the other switch that only controls the lights over the sink... have it run from that?
Or, take it a step further, and use a humidistat with a timer to control the inline fan... something like this Leviton model maybe (though it has questionable reviews...)
The amount of air it'll move is honestly more important than a humidity sensor. If you want that functionality, just install a humidity sensing switch in the wall instead of a toggle. A sensor integral to the fan is just one more part to fail, and a switch is cheaper to replace than a whole fan. You want a fan that will move 1 cubic foot of air per minute per square foot of floor space at a minimum. If you've got a 7x10 bathroom, you want a 70 CFM or better fan.
Somewhere between the UK plug and the wires connecting the LEDs is a power supply that provides a constant current source for the LEDs in the string. Because this internal power supply is regulated to always provide the same amount of power to the LEDs regardless of the AC input voltage and can accommodate a voltage range from probably 200V to 240V AC, varying the AC voltage going into the UK plug will not change the intensity of the LEDs. What you have to do is change the voltage going directly to the LEDs. You could hire someone to design and build a controller that uses an audio signal to control the voltage going to the LEDs, or you could just buy something like this
The device I linked is designed to drive a pair of RGB LED strings from a stereo audio input but you can connect a single color or white LED string to any one of the RGB outputs and it should work.
ill give that another go, but I've done that in the past with an audio splitter and heard sound, but the lights did not function with the audio as designed. It's certainly very confusing!
Anyway, I'll post an update once I retry that. Just fyi, here is the controller I am using.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JQ3QOSY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Own your very own from Amazon or Lowe's. There are also other decorative items, such as soccer balls or a fish or fake diamonds/crystals that I have seen there in the past.
I don’t think it would work with a normal smart switch. This switch will probably do what you want it to though.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06WLM8LBG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511486986&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=hunter+fan+control&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41fxKaqMpxL&amp;ref=plSrch
So I'm looking at this fan control and this light switch. That should do it?
This is what I ordered https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_j1ikDbR0SGPP3
Not sure how long they’ve been around (I just bought them last month), but these are ones I have: GE Z-wave fan switch
Here’s what I used with Alexa/ST. New Model: GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 14287 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_0VwgAbD6D17PZ.
New Model : GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Dimmer Switch, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 14294 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUCZA1C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_TXwgAb5Z1F42N
If it's just a normal dual gang box then I'd just put two switches in. Also note that there's a specific switch for fan control. I have the same setup with one dimmer switch and one fan control in the same box.
Edit: See this topic about the fan control for a better explanation than what I could give.
These work just fine with Wink:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gtC.zbHA5AZVP
thanks for the reply.
couple questions. I do have the GE fan controller on a Gen 1 hub but they show up in my Wink as a dimmer (GE brand but no model number, just 'Dimmer'), not a fan.
If I take this route how do i add this so it's identified as a fan? I see options to add a GE switch (no GE fan or GE dimmer), and there is no option for GE fan switch under the fans section.
I believe i added my fans like this back in the day but they show as switches. What changed that would cause these to now get added as fans? Is it possible Wink had an update which now identifies these as fans rather than dimmers?
Is it not possible to force HA to identify these as fans (like i do in HomeBridge)? something like:
"fan_ids": [
248563
Okay let's start from the beginning- each of your devices needs to be machine-controllable.
Lights- you can use smart bulbs (Hue etc) or you can use lighting controllers (smart light switches, plug-in dimmer modules, etc). Either way you'll either need a network like Z-Wave or Zigbee or Insteon to control them, which will require a USB RF interface. You could use all WiFi devices but I don't recommend this.
TV- that probably means infrared. Some TVs you can control by serial port, other TVs you can control with network traffic. 99% chance infrared is your best bet though.
Fan- if this is a plug-in fan you can use a plug-in switch module. What kind of fan is it?
Xbox- probably via IR.
Voice control- Alexa or Google Home.
Hub- Home Assistant works, HomeSeer costs money but might be easier to set up.
So to break this down, you need to find a way to interface all these devices with your hub. Let's assume you're using HA.
For the lights, you need a primary control technology, that'll be Z-Wave, Zigbee, Insteon, etc. I suggest Z-Wave as it's got better support in both Home Assistant and HomeSeer. That unfortunately rules out Hue bulbs, but it means you can instead get nice Z-Wave smart light switches and use your existing bulbs. Here's a popular one. If you want super controllability check out the HomeSeer branded switches- they'll work fine with Home Assistant, they have several LEDs that you can program to do whatever, you can decouple the switch (so pushing the button doesn't turn on the light but rather sends a Z-Wave command), program double/triple/quadruple tap actions, etc.
Note that if you really really want Hue lights, Home Assistant and HomeSeer both (somewhat) support ZigBee. You can also buy a Hue Bridge, which is basically an Ethernet-Zigbee interface that's Hue-proprietary, and link that to HA or HomeSeer.
Fan- if it's a plug in fan you need a plug-in appliance/switch module. Here's one. If you have a ceiling fan type thing you'll need a ceiling fan switch. Here's one of those (HomeSeer makes one too).
IR (TV, Xbox, etc)- probably BroadLink devices or Global Cache iTach. Note that if you try HomeSeer, Global Cache works, Broadlink I think does not.
Voice commands- How to integrate Alexa and Home Assistant.
I have the Broadlink RM-3 mini and I'll be honest, if I had spent more than the $15-ish that I did, I'd be really upset with myself. Granted, I used it to control other devices (a TV, surround sound, and split AC), but it was very... Touchy.
In my bedroom, however, I used this:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Controls-Required-SmartThings-14287/dp/B06XTKQTTV
It'll eliminate the need for the IR blaster, and will allow you to control the lights separate of the fan--and vice versa (although, if the fan is "off" and you turn it "on," the lights come on too, so you then have to turn those off via your [Alexa, Siri, Google] if you don't want them on). Fairly easy to install; took me less than 20 minutes.
If that's too much, maybe the Harmony Logitech remote? I've heard good things about them, and they seem to work with everything.
For that I would use a couple z-wave wall switches. Since it would be the easiest to implement. GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Smart Fan Control, Speed ONLY, in-Wall, Includes White & Lt. Almond Paddles, Zwave Hub Required, Works with SmartThings Wink and Alexa, 14287, White and GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Smart Dimmer Switch, Full Dimming, In-Wall, Incl. White and Lt. Almond Paddles, Repeater/Range Extender, Zwave Hub Required, Works with SmartThings, Wink, Alexa, 14294
I am legitimately curious. This is my setup. I bought a basic fan/light combo and hooked it up to one of these for fan control.
GE Z-Wave Plus Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Controls Fan Speed ONLY, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Zwave Hub Required- Works with SmartThings Wink and Alexa, 14287 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fYuMBbGS9JV7X
Then I hooked up the light to the matching zwave on/off. I can control both phone phone, wall or Alexa via smartthings. This was my test run before I set up the entire house like this. If there is a better way I am open to it.
Sorry, by fan controller I mean basically a switch that would require a hub. For example you could get this z-wave switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2VSKBbVYZQZJ6
And a smartthings hub (or rpi with home assistant). Like I said, I recommend this approach in particular if you want to get more into home automation.
GE has a fan control switch/dimmer.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTKQTTV/
There's not a lot of options that will support the switch/ fan combo. If you are running hue bulbs, you can just remove the light switch completely. Then use this:
New Model: GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Controls Fan Speed ONLY, Works with Amazon Alexa (Hub Required), 14287 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_K7HMAbVE4DSXS
It will require a z- wave hub, but if you have one already, it will give you smart control of the fan, and with the lights in the always on position you will just use your smart controls for those as well.
I use these for two fans in my house. They work fine and never had an issue. I do wish they had some display LEDs so you could see what setting (low led high) you were on. Other than that they work great.
I am following along with:
https://github.com/home-assistant/home-assistant/pull/14351
https://github.com/home-assistant/architecture/issues/27
HomeAssistent added native HomeKit support, and fan support has been merged, but it can't do speeds yet. And I will probably eventually pair it with this:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Controls-Required-SmartThings-14287/dp/B06XTKQTTV
This of course depends on the eventual price of the iDevices switch. I also don't like fans with lights so I don't need one that does both (the GE only does fans)
The switched I used to control fan is below and have had no issues since installing. Again this is just for the fan though as all my fan fixtures in my home were wired to have lights and fan on a separate switches
GE Z-Wave Plus Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Controls Fan Speed ONLY, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Zwave Hub Required- Works with SmartThings Wink and Alexa, 14287 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_x0bbBb4TQTWNZ
I have the same thing. I logged into the SmartThings IDE and noticed that the Fan Dimmer that shows up correctly is listed as:
>GE In-Wall Smart Fan Control
>
>MSR: 0063-4944-3034
>
>manufacturer: Jasco Products
&#x200B;
However, the one that Google Home shows as a Light is listed as:
>GE In-Wall Smart Dimmer
>
>MSR: 0063-4944-3131
>
>manufacturer: Jasco Products
&#x200B;
Both of them were purchased from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XTKQTTV
Chris Jackson's z-wave database shows the 3131 model as:
https://www.cd-jackson.com/index.php/zwave/zwave-device-database/zwave-device-list/devicesummary/281
>Manufacturer: Jasco Products
>
>Manufacturer ID: 0063
>
>Name: ZW4002 Device
>
>Description: In-Wall Smart Fan Control
>
>Category: HVAC
>
>References (Type:Id) 4944:3131
My guess is that SmartThings is reporting it incorrectly.
Thanks for the responds and tips. I tried using a 50ft extension cord and it really had no effect on time. Maybe the 100ft will yield better results. I have also thought about getting this variable temp controller, but haven't pulled the trigger yet. https://www.amazon.com/Hongville-HV-FSC-Variable-Controller-Hydroponics/dp/B074D35YB8
Since you already have SmartThings, why don’t you just get a zwave switch? Such as this one here
Honeywell Z-Wave Plus Smart Light Dimmer Switch, In-Wall Paddle, Interchangeable White & Almond | Built-In Repeater & Range Extender | ZWave Hub Required - SmartThings, Wink, Alexa Compatible, 39351 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B3LXZJ9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JDdADb3VYWN4Z
Zwave is far more reliable than Wi-Fi, I haven’t tested Lutron but I assume Lutron uses wi-if. Z-wave is a low power frequency making the device smoother.
And if you want extra functionality choose this:
HomeSeer HS-WD200+ Z-Wave Plus Scene-Capable Smart Dimmer Switch w/RGB LED indicators | Built-in Repeater Range Extender | Works with Alexa, Google Home & IFTTT (Hub Required) | Works With SmartThings https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079F38TPF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bGdADbZH2YNTP
This switch can use of its leds to show the status of a door, light, garage door, lock etc.
using this one
Looks like yes they do
If the GE switches are unavailable or too expensive, there's a Honeywell branded version of the exact same switch. I ordered 5 of these yesterday: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B3LXZJ9
So assuming you have seperate wires for light and fan motor, you need a smart switch for LEDs (assuming LEDs), and a seperate smart switch for fan motors. https://smile.amazon.com/MOES-Ceiling-Control-Compatible-Required/dp/B07HQ95N69/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=wifi+ceiling+fan+controller&qid=1555516380&s=gateway&sr=8-9
You can also get a smart universal controller, which is a little box you wire into the fan housing, and pretty much all fans are designed to fit one (hence universal). https://smile.amazon.com/NFS20Z-Enabled-Isolated-Fixture-Mounted/dp/B00WXLRF2U/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=wifi+ceiling+fan+controller&qid=1555516380&s=gateway&sr=8-15 The downside to this option is you can't control either from the wall switch (except on and off).
I haven't done too much looking, yet, but I do know that fans are usually 3 or 4 speed, so I'd look for switches that match (as opposed to ones that let you set any voltage). The motors are engineered to specifically run at certain speeds (it's a frequency thing).
For everything to work properly, the pull chains need to be set to max speed, max brightness. I recommend not adding the extensions that are often included, so people don't mess them up on accident.
Depends. Do you want to start automating your home? Or do you just want a solution to solve this particular problem?
Universal Thermostatic Ceiling Fan and Light Remote Control Conversion Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001RJ8X0M/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_4uR9wbY5WD66W
I have that in my guest bedroom and it works OK. You key in a setpoint. It will start to slow the fan down as it gets closer to the setpoint eventually turning it off when it reaches the desired temp.
If you want to start automating your home, what would you rate your technical skills like?
zwave plus version
https://smile.amazon.com/GE-14287-Control-Z-Wave-Plus/dp/B06XTKQTTV/