Best commercial cleaning chemicals according to redditors

We don't even have to harvest it ourselves.

CLR® Calcium, Lime and Rust Remover
.


Comes in different sizes too, I just picked the first result on Amazon. :D

Calcium/Lime/Rust. It's a clearner specifically designed for stains and buildup caused by those types of residues.

This shit: https://www.amazon.com/CLR-Calcium-Remover-Enhanced-Formula/dp/B00009EFEX

Are they scratches or calcium buildup? Try some CLR on that bowl, it might clean it right up.

Homebrew Materials:

Vacuum Pump Oil

Vacuum Tubing

1/4" Barb x 1/4" NPT Male Hose Fitting

1/4" Male x 1/4" Female NPT Extension Hose

Vacuum Pump

Filters

Spatulas

Magnetic Stir Bar

Digital Hotplate with Magnetic Stirrer

Nitrile Gloves (Better than Latex)

Empty Capsules (Buy Separated unless you hate your life)

Capsule Machine (If you value your sanity, buy more than a 100... I hated my life doing this)

Mohr Pipets

Pipette 10ml

Mortar and Pestle (If you're doing orals, get this... Otherwise, you're playing Russian Roulette with your doses and liver)

Funnel (For pouring into small places)

Alconox (For clean your shit)

Temperature Gun (How hot is my shit?)

Graduated Cylinder (If you measure with beakers, you're a fucking idiot... And you should consider Volumetric Flasks)

Beaker Set

1 Liter Beaker (Because brewing en'masse is better)

Scale (I have a 2kg one, too)

Calibration Weight Set

Calibration Weight 100g (Because you need two for the scale linked)

Vacuum Regulator (Unless you want to filter 9001 times due to broken shit)

Oil (Any USP grade, filtered or unfitlered)

BB

BA

Butyl Stoppers

Flip Top Seals

Crimper

Vials (Unsealed)

Autoclave (Cheaper than an oven, why are you using an oven?!)

Weight Boats (Buy a million of these. They're cheap and useful)

Did I miss something? Probably. Yes.

As someone working through this but a few years ahead of you, I'll pass along the list of stuff I've bought and/or wish to buy...

Hand Tools

1. You say you have screwdrivers, but ifs worthwhile to have a full complement of them. You might consider getting a hand tool set like this one. Also, diagonals. Can't stress that enough. Eventually, you might upgrade a lot of these, but it'll get you started.
   
   
2. Ratcheting wrenches, along these lines. Conventional wrenches are functional, but these are much more so.
   
   
3. Ratcheting hex key set. In fact, this one looks good. If you have any Ikea furniture in your future, these will be worth their weight in guld.
   
   
4. Maybe a vise. That particular vice is mid-priced, but you can find well-reviewed vises at just about any price point.
   
   
5. A good range of sand paper grits: 80, 100, 120, 150, 180. You might also pick up a sanding sponge.
   
   Power Tools
   
   
6. A Dremel
   
   
7. Maybe an electric circular saw or a jigsaw. I really don't know which I'd prioritize, but you should probably have at least one of them.
   
   
8. If there's money left over in your budget, I'd suggest a random orbit sander.
   
   
9. A drill press
   
   Also, there are fluids to consider
   
   
10. Simple Green
    
    
11. Penetrating oil
    
    
12. Wood Glue
    
    
13. Mineral Spirits
    
    
14. Linseed Oil
    
    Of these, I'd focus on the hand tools, fluids, and the Dremel. You can always ask someone to buy you a saw for Christmas. If you have these things on hand, there probably won't be a job come along that you can't handle at some basic level. I'm assuming you don't need yard grooming tools, because that's an entirely different list.

Calcium, Lime, and Rust Remover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009EFEX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_0-XFwbNSSPYEA


It's used to remove hard minerals. You have to be careful not to get it on the paint. Thus diluted CLR should be used.

I found this stuff recently

WD-40 Specialist Industrial-Strength Cleaner & Degreaser, 32 OZ [Non-Aerosol Trigger] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07228GR2B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4ZXvDbKBG6XBR

And I’ve just been spraying some onto a shop rag to wipe off any grease/dirt and then wiping it again with a dry rag. I haven’t had a problem with it and it works well as far as I’ve used it. I use it to clean my impact gun with a polymer body and plastic handled screwdrivers and it hasn’t effected the finish or feel of them at all.

You can buy grips online or at your local golf retailer. The retailer should be able to install them for $2-3 per club. Installing them is best left to a professional until you know what you are doing. It doesn't look too difficult, but I've never done it myself.


And CLR is a calcium, lime, and rust remover. I've used it to clean up an old set of irons and it worked well. CLR

For things that don't readily come off with alcohol and/or water.

These:

Alconox Powder Labware Detergent, 4 lbs Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FGDEP1Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_buPwCbCFF6J2R


100% Orange Oil d-Limonene HIGH PURITY Food Grade, Solvent, Medicinal, Cleaner, Degreaser, Limonene (32 fl oz) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009SSGW48/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WuPwCb3DKT2R4

And/or an ultrasonic bath are what we use in our lab.

To clarify we do not specifically mix alconox and limonene. Not saying it will be toxic or have a violent reaction if the 2 mix, but typically we try not to mix solvents.

For stubborn stuff the ultrasonic bath works great.

I would avoid using salt as it can scratch the glass and if you are using tap water it's a good idea to rinse with ethanol or isopropyl afterwards to prevent hard water stains and to help it dry thoroughly.


If you can't decide which to try first go with the limonene. If it's still really stuck you'll probably be best to invest in a ultrasonic bath.

UK Amazon I hope this helps

D-Limonene!! Only the pure industrial grade. We had a family of Racoons in our boat and we thought we would have to total it. This stuff works!

https://www.amazon.com/Blubonic-Industries-d-Limonene-Medicinal-Degreaser/dp/B00508BM18

If you're that paranoid about it I suggest either buying a portable washer such as this or washing clothes in a sink/wasbtub so you don't have to use a communal washer. Otherwise unless you plan to wash all of your laundry in water over 160f you're not going to sanitize anything.

There is no detergent that will sanitize clothes, period. "Sanitizing" rinses such as Lysol's and Persil's need to go into the rinse cycle (they cannot come in contact with detergent) and need to agitate throughout the clothing for at least 15 minutes and need warm/hot water to be effective. Frankly there are very few, if any washers that have rinse cycles that agitate that long, and most washers now use a default cold water rinse. There are no common laundry additives that will sanitize clothes. There are specialty products like Opto-Cide which work on soft surfaces, but they must be used full strength.

Chlorine bleach will sanitize clothes if used in the right amount, at the right temperature (over 140f), and added at the right time (it must be added several minutes after detergent, and have several minutes agitation time once added). If you are this concerned about your neighbors germs though this might be an option for you. Run a hot water wash with bleach and detergent w/ some old towels or rags through, and then immediately run your clothes through on the next cycle.

You should also dry your clothes at the highest temperature setting for a minimum of 30 minutes, according to this and this in order to kill bacteria and viruses.

Interesting. I'll give theirs a try when I use the last 1.25L of anycubic I've got. Although it might get a dose of ... highlight (maybe?) to make it not clear.

And searching amazon for the form labs clear resin, have you seen this yellow magic stuff? I mean 11 reviews doesn't boast alot of confidence, but it doesn't seem horrible either. its made of propoxypropan-2-ol whatever that is.

https://www.amazon.com/Yellow-Magic-Undiluted-Packaging-Varnishes/dp/B01EG502M0/

We clean high end bongs with salt+99% iso. If I'm flying with a piece I'll fill it with hot water and some alconox dissolved in it. Don't waste money on glass cleaner from headshops when they're literally just salt and iso.

https://www.amazon.com/Alconox-Detergent-Cleaning-Concentrate-Container/dp/B0000WU828/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549060584&sr=8-1&keywords=alconox

Alconox, is a biodegradable lab detergent. To my understanding, it rinses clean and leaves no bad residues (unlike usual soaps and detergents). I have used it for cleaning tanks for fish and to clean lab equipment.

I have no idea about this diesel compound and it's safety. Also note that fish are more sensitive than crabs and other crustaceans.

CLR....

The fiberglass gel coat may be worn off. If this is the case, good luck cleaning it. You could get it recoated. If it doesn't seem worn off, try soaking towels with white vinegar and laying them on the area for 24 hours, keeping the towels wet.

There is also a product called Sunny Brite, I used a lot when cleaning homes. Works fabulously. Ventilate the room.

This was from DL:

You guys convinced me to home brew. Especially after I just did some math on what my latest $2k purchase would get me.

Putting together the list, will be refining as I learn more.

• [Autoclave](http://www.amazon.com/Prestige-Classic-Electric-Autoclave- Sterilizer/dp/B002AR0NUI/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hpc_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0E5AJ7PQ2CHM1083QMPT) -- $899
  
• 2 x Autoclave Gasket -- $120
  
• Hormone powder
  
• Filtered Cottonseed USP Oil 4 Liter -- $255
  
• Benzyl Benzoate USP 1 Liter -- $60.75
  
• Benzyl Alcohol USP 1 Liter -- $45
  
• 3ml TERUMO Luer Lock Syringe w/o Needle (Qty. 50) -- $8
  
• 1 x 10ml EXEL Luer Lock Syringe w/o Needle (Qty. 50) -- $15.25
  
• 5 x B-D 25g x 1.5' (Qty. 10) -- $11
  
• 5 x B-D Needles 18g 1.5 (Qty 10) -- $11
  
• Alcohol prep pads/wipes
  
• Accurate scale to hundredths place
  
• Calibration weight
  
• 2 x Corning Pyrex 3 Piece Glass Graduated Low Form Griffin Beaker Set, 50ml, 100ml, 250ml -- $29.90
  
• 4 x PYREX Griffin Low Form 400mL Beaker Graduated Ea -- $34
  
• 4 x Beaker - PYREX GLASS 10ml -- $22.72
  
• 2 x SEOH Class A Volumetric Flask Borosilicate Glass 250ML -- $29.90
  
• 2 x Beaker Filters -- 150ml Nalgene MF75 Bottle Top Filter - 33mm neck (Qty. 12) -- $145
  
• Vacuum Pump -- 1.5 CFM Portable -- $275
  
• Melting Point Checker
  
• Sterile .20um syringe filter (For Tren) -- $162.88
  
• Crimper
  
• Vials
  
• Caps
  
• Glass stir rod
  
• Agar plates
  
• Latex gloves
  
• Alconox Detergent Cleaning Concentrate 4 lb. Container -- $30.30
  
• Scilogex 86143101 Model MS-H280-Pro BlueSpin LED Circular-Top Digital Magnetic Hotplate Stirrer with Ceramic Coated Plate, 100/240V -- $200
  
• 2 x Bel-Art Scienceware 371100138 PTFE Octagon Spinbar Magnetic Stirrer Bar, with Integral Pivot Ring, White, 1" Length, 3/8" Diameter -- $13
  
• 3 x jugs isopropyl alcohol
  
• Propolyene Gylcol 300
  
• Lockable Medical Storage Box -- $44.50
  
• Horizontal Laminar Flow Hood 48" x 24" -- $1,900
  
  
  Which Bottle Top Filter?
  ---------------------------------
  
• Millipore Hydrophilic PVDF Stericup-GV Bottletop Filter Unit, Radio-Sterilized, 0.22µm Pore Size -- $225
  
  Or
  
  
• 2 x Beaker Filters -- 150ml Nalgene MF75 Bottle Top Filter - 33mm neck (Qty. 12) -- $145
  
  
  Which Pipettor?
  ---------------------------------
  
• VWR Ergonomic High-Performance Pipettor -- $267.02
  
  or
  
  
• BRAND seripettor* pro Bottletop Dispenser - 1-10 mL -- #296.30
  
  Money is not an object. I'm not the type to do things cheaply or in a half-assed way. Lets set up the dream home brew lab now. I'll post pictures.
  
  What to buy?
  
  

A classic from Eric the Car Guy for flushing your heater core.

(Edit to add:) He used CLR cleaner. No brand endorsement is meant by this link, I usually buy generic myself.

With the engine cold (cool), you can start it up with the hood open, heat and fan on, and then feel the heater hose to see if warming up properly. The engine should warm up, and start flowing warm water through the heater core circuit (which in a VW should probably be a really long hose to the front of the car)

If you never feel any heat, you may have low or no flow through the heater core.

OTOH, if your engine overall is just never really heating up (is your dash thermostat working?) I would instead suspect a stuck thermostatic valve in the cooling system.

In really really cold weather, some people cover parts of the engine radiator with a canvas cover. This is quite often done with diesels. This helps a bit with the cab heat too.

It looks like a rust stain. I have had success using CLR to remove rust stains. It's the kind of product you want to sit wet on the stain for a little bit.

Disclaimer: I never tried to use CLR on a fiberglass bathtub so read the label.

https://www.amazon.com/CLR-Calcium-Remover-Enhanced-Formula/dp/B00009EFEX

http://www.amazon.com/Calcium-Lime-and-Rust-Remover/dp/B00009EFEX

Sorry.... Calcium Lime Rust. You can see a picture of it in the Tools photo.

http://www.amazon.com/Calcium-Lime-and-Rust-Remover/dp/B00009EFEX

Not sure what is available in your area, but it is just a simple, nice cleaner for metal and the like. Probably a LOT of different options.

Put the grates in a bucket and pour enough of this stuff to completely submerge the plates. Let sit for as long as possible, overnight would be best. Remove the plates from the bucket, hose them off, and let them dry. Now you'll want to season them, like all cast iron, by rubbing them down with peanut oil and heating them on the grill until the shine from the oil goes away.

Try CLR. The stuff is extremely effective and also extremely water soluble. A thorough rinse will remove any traces of nasty chemical goo and leave the tank safe for use.

Buy some CLR it should get it out. They sell it nearly every where.

CLR. Also that's kind of nasty.

I used a pumice stone and CLR to remove the ring on my toilet bowl.

https://www.amazon.com/CLR-Calcium-Remover-Enhanced-Formula/dp/B00009EFEX

Or

https://www.amazon.com/Ajax-Powder-Cleanser-Bleach-396/dp/B00005UVD9

Not OP, but I have this one and it fits quite a bit.

Yes. I'm a big fan of glue traps. Don't be afraid to use them "two in a row." Mice can get smart and jump one of them but two is a stretch. After you do some exclusion work and continue trapping; don't be afraid to rearrange boxes and other items to "funnel" you little friends in you various traps and devices.

​

Clean up: A light spraying of water with help the "dust" from floating about when you begin to clean by sweeping ect. There are (likeQuat 10) that will help kill these nasty little viruses but spraying the area down with water is effective as it keeps the dust (which contains the droppings/urine and thus the viruses/bacterium) from floating about simply by weighing it down. This limits your risk of inhaler something nasty. Quat 10 is expensive.

​

As to the mice...The deer mouse is marked a bit like a whitetail deer. Brown with a white underbelly. A house mouse is usually a shade of gray...hmmm...50 shades of gray.

Deep clean: 3 parts h20, 1 part white vinegar. Submerge and soak for 1 hour. Rinse and allow to air dry.
To help with the smell, do dawn.and warm water soak.
If you're looking for the super duper borderline OCD clean, try control iii solution, available on Amazon...

Control III Concentrate Disinfectant 16 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AZ37VC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_s7PEzbFNKSHXB

I didn't actually know, so I did a search: "Calcium, Lime, and Rust Remover."

Ta-da!

https://www.amazon.com/Blubonic-Industries®-d-Limonene-Limonene-Terpenes/dp/B00508BM18

70 dollars a gallon? Now I know yall be trippin.
I could buy enough chems for 2 extractions for what this nasty shit costs. And even if you do get there you've still got this salting out process to go through. This foodsafe fascination escapes me. It's kitchen chemistry and free base is the goal. Making it incredibly more difficult won't allow you to eat the fucking extraction.. lol.

If Iso doesn't work i usually go:

http://www.amazon.com/LAS-PURPOSE-CONCENTRATED-TOTALLY-AWESOME/dp/B0017KT3IM
(this can be found @ the dollar tree)

Then (If need be):

http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Acetone-Remover-Fluid-Ounce/dp/B0006PS3KI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449774484&sr=8-1&keywords=acetone
Haven't used this brand, just acetone in general.



Lastly for hardwater/bloom:

http://www.amazon.com/Calcium-Lime-and-Rust-Remover/dp/B00009EFEX
(Publix/Walmart or any other basic market)

I think a standard home water filtration system is actually a better deal, even with a water pump.

Pump ($60), filter($80), pre-filter($30). Add 5$ of PVC pipe.

Ovr the long run,this should be less expensive. Almost nowhere in the US is ground water unsafe to drink. Not that I would put that to the test, but unless you are in some strange circumstances you shouldn't need ultra high levels of filtration. You can buy a UV filter if you are really paranoid, you can add a UV filter ($150).

I've had really good luck getting just about anything off a painted hard surface with Motsenbockers.

On an side note, this reminded me of the time I accidentally left a 7" pocketknife clipped to my jeans in the wash. It somehow even made it into the dryer undetected. My first clue was when pulling the dried clothes out, it cut me pretty good, but worse yet, as I started folding them, HOLES. Holes in EVERYTHING that damn pocket knife shanked every single item in the wash a million times!

Moral of the story, triple check your pockets :D

Is this what you are talking about? http://www.amazon.in/Calcium-Lime-and-Rust-Remover/dp/B00009EFEX Its quite expensive for where I live.

Have you tried CLR? Supposed to be specifically for that sort of thing I think

Blubonic Industries® 100% d-Limonene HIGH PURITY FOOD GRADE Limonene Orange Oil Terpenes Citrus Solvent 1 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00508BM18/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_a9C3xbD0607RV

It's pretty cheap and can just be evaporated off.