Best computer accessories & peripherals according to redditors
We found 68,633 Reddit comments discussing the best computer accessories & peripherals. We ranked the 13,203 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
![Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-Free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized for SSD, Support UASP SATA III] Black (EC-UASP)](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/311m+ah4SDL.jpg)
I know it's spendy, like 50 bucks spendy, but those vacuum blowers on amazon are 100% worth.
However, you will become the roaming pc cleaner.
Edit:http://www.amazon.com/Metro-ED500-DataVac-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW?ie=UTF8&keywords=air%20compressor%20for%20computer&qid=1465497952&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
Edit:if you're concerned about ESD there's a more expensive one I think that's ESD resistant.
stop buying these worthless cans of air and buy an electric duster.. never going back to these cans.
http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395329983&sr=8-1&keywords=electric+duster
Is your HDD actually broken? If not, you can remove the HDD yourself and use an [external hard drive enclosure,] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_bs_tr_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GW9T7RJBJ8EWMF19HNPH) to access your files.
Congrats on the new computers. You might want to air blower to clean your and your brother's computers every so often, especially since you have a pet. Having dust and pet fur in a computers can slow it down. I would recommend this. Other computer enthusiasts might know of better computer cleaners.
Thanks for all the great art!
Philips SHP9500 HiFi Precision Stereo Over-ear Headphones (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ENMK1DW?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf. And the mic is V-MODA BoomPro Gaming, VoIP Headset Headphone with Mic (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BJ17WKK?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf. I highly recommend them, sound quality is amazing but the only downside is everyone can hear your shit.
Never buying a can of compressed air again.
these:
https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M40x-Professional-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR54
https://www.amazon.com/Antlion-Audio-ModMic-Attachable-Microphone/dp/B00R98JVVU/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1491575296&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=modmic&psc=1
and you will be considered the best Girlfriend ever.......there are a million choices out there on the market today, but, in my experiance there are a very few full on pre-made Gaming headsets that are truly super good, sure some sound ok but very few have the sound quality of a decent studio monitor headphone, and for me, that's important. Good luck, and, you're awesome for soliciting info like this, well done!!
whoops, missed the wireless part, sorry!!!!
logtiech artemis is a nice headset, I loved mine till I moved to the set up I have above, decent sound, lots of extras, good range, good mike:
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Artemis-Spectrum-Wireless-Surround/dp/B0148NPJ78/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1491575575&sr=1-3&keywords=logitech+artemis
and, if he already has some logitech gear, it works in conjunction with the software he already has.
Not sure about the 50% off, as it's usually around < $65 on amazon. Still cheaper though.
might want to make an investment
If it helps make you more uncomfortable, you can get a 200GB card of the same size for $100 on Amazon right now.
I love my Logitech M570 for airplanes. Way better than a trackpad and smaller footprint than a mouse.
Or spend a bit more, and never buy a can again.
http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW
Warning, big ass list of stuff.
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-RM1000x-Modular-Certified-warranty/dp/B015YEI7LK for $130
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-RM750i-Modular-Certified-warranty/dp/B00YPNSQTU for $100
https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Gaming-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST4000DX001/dp/B00FQH7MQ2 for $117
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-Single-PC3L-12800-SODIMM-204-Pin/dp/B006YG8X9Y $20.79
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-SODIMM-Memory-System-CT2K8G3S160BM/dp/B008LTBJFW $42.79
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Obsidian-750D-Performance-Tower/dp/B00EB6O4N8 $99.99
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Trackball-Computer-Mouse/dp/B0043T7FXE $20
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-G13-Programmable-Gameboard-Display/dp/B001NEK2GE $34
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Gaming-SCIMITAR-Mechanical-Buttons/dp/B019OQJ9XE $60
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Performance-Mouse-Mac/dp/B002HWRJBM $45
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Surround-Theater-External-Speakers/dp/B004M18O60/ $250
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Hyperion-Gaming-Fusion-910-004069/dp/B00LZVNWIA $30
https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Gaming-Headset-PS4/dp/B00Y09G6H8 $75
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Surround-Hybrid-Headset-Adapter/dp/B01B1H33WW $60
https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-PC-350-Special-2015/dp/B015ZKJIYI $90
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Keyboard-Touchpad-Internet-Connected/dp/B014EUQOGK $18
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U28E590D-28-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor/dp/B00YD3DBOC $300
https://www.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-Portable-External-GP65NB60/dp/B00ODDE33U $20
https://www.amazon.com/Ballistix-PC3-12800-240-Pin-Memory-BLS4KIT8G3D1609DS1S00/dp/B007HAXMGA $96
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-16GBx2-PC4-17000-SODIMM-260-Pin/dp/B015YPB8ME $96
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Dominator-Platinum-3200MHz-PC4-25600/dp/B018GK2G9S $96
https://www.amazon.com/Ballistix-Sport-8GBx2-PC4-19200-288-Pin/dp/B01AG9EZ3M $55 (must-have for a white-themed build)
https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-DOMINATOR-Platinum-3000MHz-Systems/dp/B016BWENUI/ $194
https://www.amazon.com/Transcend-JetFlash-Flash-Drive-TS32GJF790K/dp/B00JKATVUQ $7.50 (32GB)
https://www.amazon.com/PNY-Elite-32GB-Flash-Drive/dp/B01E17L6AK/ $8.50
https://www.amazon.com/PNY-Turbo-Elite-Flash-Drive/dp/B01DWN1CMG/ $12 (64GB)
https://www.amazon.com/Transcend-MicroSDHC-Memory-Adapter-TS32GUSDU1PE/dp/B015J44R0U $7 (32GB)
https://www.amazon.com/PNY-MicroSDXC-Adapter--UHS-I-P-SDU64U185EL-GE/dp/B01G26R7M4 $14 (64GB)
https://www.amazon.com/Transcend-MicroSDXC-Memory-Adapter-TS64GUSDU1PE/dp/B016B6AMFY $14 (64GB)
Not likely related to the update since you can't format it on PC either. FWIW, pny and kingston are the only two brands of flash memory I've ever had fail on me.
Stick with Sandisk or Samsung.
Or you buy a headphones with a detachable cable (3.5mm jack) and get a V-Moda boom pro and you have it all in one high quality cable.
My recommendation is Philips SHP9500 with V-Moda Boom Pro
Das keyboards get some flak for being overpriced, but at $60 this is a pretty good deal.Now that they have apparently sold out, see below for some alternatives.EDIT: if you search for Das on /r/mechanicalkeyboards you'll find lots of people talking about how Das keyboards have declined in quality recently and some controversy about the software for one of their new models (not this KB) being Windows only. The keycaps Das uses are also said to be low quality. These issues aside, I personally think this is a good deal. If you are in the market for a full size mechanical keyboard, it's hard to find a better keyboard for the price. Some alternatives that are better but more expensive:
EDIT 2: as /u/SolixTanaka pointed out below, the Magicforce keyboards have questionable quality control. It's probably not fair to say they are better than Das keyboards. Some users love them and have no problems, others find their board crapping out after a few months (or sooner). Buyer beware. I like them because they are a cheap way to try out a 60% layout if that's something that interests you but you're unsure if you'll like it.
400gb for just $6 more:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074RNRM2B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_COtRCbRN3NKSS
I'm putting this here because I don't want to flood the main sub with what I'm able to find. So here goes:
Headphones| Price
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[ATH-M50x Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Audio-Technica-ATH-M50x-Professional-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR86/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499757226&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=headphones) |$150 in cart. $250-$300 everywhere else I check
[Sennhieser HD 598 SR Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Sennheiser-HD-598-SR-Open-Back/dp/B06WRMZZ45/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499757356&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=hd+598) |$109 Record low
[Audio-Technica ATH-M40x Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Audio-Technica-ATH-M40x-Professional-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR54/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499758834&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=bose) |$180 - $38 = $141
[August EP650-Bluetooth headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/August-EP650-Bluetooth-Wireless-Headphones-Leather/dp/B00F54Y6GU/ref=sr_1_2?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499759484&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=headphones)| Was $99, now $58
[August EP640 Bluetooth Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/August-EP640-Rechargeable-built-Smartphones/dp/B00MHOFR78/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499772544) |was $80, now $37
[Prime Day Bluedio T2S Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Bluedio-Shooting-Bluetooth-headphones-wireless/dp/B00Q2VIW9M/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499759635&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=bluetooth) | Was $20, $21 in cart no tax
Prime Day Bluedio V Headphones | was $200, $140 in cart no tax
[AUSDOM ANC 7 Bluetooth noise cancelling] (https://www.amazon.ca/Cancelling-Headphones-AUSDOM-Bluetooth-Comfortable/dp/B01LZ7Q5R1/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499808109&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=aptx) | was $100, now $50. Well reviewed!
[Sony Extra bass bluetooth headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Sony-MDRXB950B1-Extra-Headphone-Model/dp/B01N5UVZBP) | was $200, now $99
Earbuds| Price
:--|:--
[Aukey Arcs Bluetooth Sport] (https://www.amazon.ca/AUKEY-Bluetooth-Headphones-Microphone-Sweatproof/dp/B01EWUP4NQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499804815&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=headphones)| was $24, now $14
[1MORE Triple Driver earbuds] (https://www.amazon.ca/1MORE-Headphones-Earphones-Compatible-Microphone/dp/B01KB9K9Z0/ref=lp_17037466011_1_4?srs=17037466011&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499766067&amp;sr=8-4&amp;th=1) | Was $131, $106 in cart
Bluetooth misc| Price
:--|:--
[Anker Premium Stereo Bluetooth 4.0 Speaker ] (https://www.amazon.ca/Anker-Bluetooth-Subwoofers-Portable-Wireless/dp/B0107WH8Q4/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499800448&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=subwoofer) | was $130, now $60
[Trond bluetooth receiver] (https://www.amazon.ca/TROND-Bluetooth-Receiver-Headphones-Speakers/dp/B01M9I0LSK/) | Was $25, now $20. I have one its awesome
[Altman Bluetooth Transmitter/receiver] (https://www.amazon.ca/ALTMAN-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Receiver-Wireless/dp/B06Y25PGBG/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499803431&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=aptx) |was $43, now $26
CPU Coolers| Price
:--|:--
[CORSAIR Hydro Series H100i v2 Extreme ] (https://www.amazon.ca/CORSAIR-Extreme-Performance-Liquid-CW-9060025-WW/dp/B019EXSSBG/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499757440&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=corsair) |$110. Historic [all time low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/CrDzK8/corsair-cpu-cooler-cw9060025ww)
[Corsair Hydro Series H115i Extreme Performance] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Extreme-Performance-Liquid-CW-9060027-WW/dp/B019955RNQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499756838&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=corsair) |$155 (temporarily out of stock)
[MasterLiquid Pro 240 All-In-One] (https://www.amazon.ca/MasterLiquid-Technology-Chamber-MasterFan-Radiator/dp/B01E5XNP5Y/ref=lp_16927652011_1_24?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499766384&amp;sr=1-24) | was $140, now $95 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/sqmxFT/cooler-master-cpu-cooler-mlyd24ma20mbr1)
PSU| Price
:--|:--
[Corsair CS650M] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Modular-Efficient-Supply-CS650M/dp/B00GH9NA2I/ref=sr_1_11?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499757999&amp;sr=1-11&amp;keywords=corsair) |$110. Not the lowest but okay
[EVGA SuperNOVA 550 G3] (https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-220-G3-0550-Y1/dp/B01LWTS2UL/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499759891&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=evga)| Was $130, now $99 [historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/sMM323/evga-supernova-g3-550w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-220-g3-0550)
Cases| Price
:--|:--
[Corsair 780T full atx case] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Graphite-780T-Full-Tower/dp/B00LA6POK4) | $189 in cart. Not an [all time low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/sNJwrH/corsair-case-cc9011063ww) but not bad
[Corsair Carbide 400C white] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-CC-9011095-WW-Carbide-Compact-Mid-Tower/dp/B01F97W9ZM/ref=sr_1_12?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499813131&amp;sr=1-12&amp;keywords=corsair) |$105 in cart
HDD| Price
:--|:--
[Seagate Backup Plus Hub 8TB] (https://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-External-Desktop-Storage-STEL8000100/dp/B01HD6ZLQ6/ref=sr_1_3?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499758359&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=hdd) | $270 - 51 = $219
[Seagate 4TB BarraCuda Pro ] (https://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-BarraCuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST4000DM006/dp/B01MSW4MNS/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499758359&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=hdd)|$245-75 = $170 [Historic low!] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/qRtWGX/seagate-barracuda-pro-4tb-35-7200rpm-internal-hard-drive-st4000dm006)
[Seagate Backup Plus 4TB Portable] (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0196J43TE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&amp;psc=1) | Was $160, now $135 [all time low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/NyQRsY/seagate-backup-plus-4tb-external-hard-drive-stdr4000100)
[Seagate Firecuda 2TB] (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01M1NHCZT/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1)| was $126, now $85 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/zk7CmG/seagate-firecuda-2tb-25-5400rpm-internal-hard-drive-st2000lx001)
[Seagate Firecuda 1TB] (https://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-Firecuda-2-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000LX015/dp/B01LWRTRZU/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499767750&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=ssd) | was $83, now $60 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/w6x9TW/seagate-firecuda-1tb-25-5400rpm-hybrid-internal-hard-drive-st1000lx015)
Input Devices| Price
:--|:--
[Logitech G13 input pad] (https://www.amazon.ca/Logitech-G13-Programmable-Gameboard-Display/dp/B001NEK2GE/ref=sr_1_21?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499761901&amp;sr=1-21&amp;keywords=board+games) | Was $75, now $55 [Historic Low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/jbvZxr/logitech-keyboard-920000946)
[Corsair Gaming K70 LUX RGB MX Brown] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Gaming-Mechanical-Keyboard-Backlit/dp/B01ER4B7YM/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499770080&amp;) | was $180, now $160 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/34M323/corsair-k70-lux-rgb-wired-gaming-keyboard-ch-9101012-na)
Networking| Price
:--|:--
[NETGEAR Nighthawk X8 AC5300 Router] (https://www.amazon.ca/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-Tri-Band-Quad-Stream-R8500-100CNS/dp/B01A85Y9TE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499760240&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=NETGEAR+Nighthawk+X8+AC5300)| was $499, now $290
[TP-Link AC3200 Tri band router] (https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Tri-Band-Beamforming-Archer-C3200/dp/B00YY3XSSA/ref=sr_1_3?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499760450&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=modem) | Was $249, now $175
[Netgear 16-Port Gigabit Switch] (https://www.amazon.ca/Netgear-16-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Desktop/dp/B01AX8XHRQ/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499760948&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=ethernet) | Was $106, now $75 in cart
MISC| Price
:--|:--
[Logitech C922x Webcam] (https://www.amazon.ca/Logitech-Stream-Webcam-Streaming-960-001176/dp/B01LXCDPPK/ref=sr_1_5?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499760799&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=computer) | was $130, now $89. All time low
[Acer KG251Q 1080p Freesync monitor] (https://www.amazon.ca/Acer-KG251Q-bmiix-FREESYNC-Technology/dp/B06X6HJ1SF/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499762804&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=monitor) | Was $230, now $170
[M9S PRO android tv box] (https://www.amazon.ca/Leelbox-M9S-Pro-Android-6-0/dp/B01MD0NZPK/ref=sr_1_2?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499767387) | Was $130, $98 in cart
[Cyberpower 600w UPS] (https://www.amazon.ca/CyberPower-CP1000PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N192/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499803529&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=ups) | was $224, now $125
I'll try to keep tabs on everything but let me know if there are any errors or price updates. And as a side note, I'm actually getting downvotes for this? I can't see how there could possibly be a sane explanation for that.
&nbsp;
EDIT: Updated 7:00pm EST!! Let me know if there's anything you see and I'll put it in here!
&nbsp;
EDIT: I've put everything new as of Jan 11, 4:00pm in bold. Also, check this post on RedFlagDeals for a great big list of deal
&nbsp;
EDIT: Its all over everyhone. Hope you snagged something cool beyond bitter disappointment this year!**
&nbsp;
Not a huge deal 128gb for $20
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B073JYC4XM/ref=psdc_3015433011_t1_B06XWZWYVP
edit:added link
A Logitech G13 or Razer Tartaurus might meet your needs. Or if you're cheap a USB numpad and using something like sharpkeys or autohotkey to rebind your numpad would probably work.
Use this whenever you see dust building up.
Full offer rules here. As OP mentioned, it can't be applied to video games.
I just used it to bring the SanDisk Ultra 200GB microSD down to $61.32, effectively giving you 72GB more for $21 over the usual $40/128GB options.
Logitech C920 + 100% Microphone Volume + This sample rate setting = FeelsGoodMan Clap
Or spend $6 and get a mic.
https://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Zm-Mic1-Sensitivity-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B00029MTMQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486410430&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=zalman+mic
I've never been an advocate of gaming headsets. You pay for something that's way more expensive than what you're actually getting. You buy a $150 headset, you're probably getting $70-80 headphones with a bad microphone.
You're almost always better off to buy a pair of headphones that suits your needs well and then buy a microphone afterwards. You'll get the better use of your money this way. I've got a pair of Sennheiser HD 558s with a Zalman ZM-Mic1. It clips onto my headphone's cord so I don't have to worry about it being all over the place. Sound quality is good and I've gotten no complaints about static or fuzziness from friends. Otherwise, the Modmic is always a good choice.
If you're looking for something that isn't sound isolating, I would recommend buying a pair of open headphones with an external microphone. The 558s are open, by the way. You get a bit of sound leakage, so other people can hear what's going on if it's loud enough, but you can also hear everything around you. Because of this, you get a more realistic sound.
VOIP is so good now there is little-to-no reason to have a low quality microphone. Y'all should pitch in and get her one: https://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Zm-Mic1-Sensitivity-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B00029MTMQ
https://smile.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84?sa-no-redirect=1
You don't. Most if not all of the SD cards advertised as 1-2TB are fake, being small capacity cards that had their firmware hacked to show a spoofed high capacity.
Basic rule of thumb is, if you've never heard of the brand making the card, don't buy it. Stick to Kingston, PNY, Samsung, MiniMicro, SanDisk and other well-known, reputable brands.
Here is a highly reviewed 512GB micro SD from Samsung. $90, 4.5/5 stars in reviews.
400GB micro SD from SanDisk, $52, 4.5/5 stars.
That's more than I'd ever need on a phone. My hard storage on my desktop is 2TB, and I hardly fill that up even with lots of films.
I remember someone announcing it, but I couldn't find a consumer version for sale. Do you know who it was or have a link? I did find 200GB MicroSD cards, those are readily available via Amazon.
$130 - Sennheiser HD 599 SE Special Edition, Black
$130 - Sennheiser HD 4.50 Special Edition, Bluetooth Wireless Headphone with Active Noise Cancellation, Black
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$541 - HKC 34'' (3440x1440p) 21:9 Ultrawide 100hz Curved Freesync VA Panel 8ms GTG Rebranded Viotek GN34C, I think it's a Samsung CF791 Panel
$870 - Samsung LC34J791WTNXZA 34" 3440x1440 100Hz QLED 21:9 VA Freesync Thunderbolt 3
$115 - ViewSonic VX2257-MHD 22 Inch 75Hz 2ms 1080p TN
$650 - Samsung 32" QLED 1440p 144Hz HDR 600 WQHD Curved Gaming Monitor Freesync 2 VA
$315 - LG 27GL650F-B 27" 144hz IPS HDR 10 Freesync
$165 - AOPEN 24HC1QR Pbidpx 23.6" 1080p 144hz 1800R Curved FreeSync 4ms VA
$320 - AOPEN 32HC1QUR Pbidpx 31.5" (2560x1440) 144Hz 1800R Curved VA 4ms Freesync Ships within 1-3 months
$260 - ViewSonic VX3276-2K-MHD 32 Inch 1440p IPS Frameless
&#x200B;
$270 - AMD Ryzen 7 2700X
$765 - AMD Ryzen Threadripper 2950X
&#x200B;
$200 - Toshiba X300 8TB Hard Drive 7200 RPM 128MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5 Inch
$120 - Toshiba NAS N300 4TB NAS 3.5-Inch Internal Hard Drive- SATA 6 Gb/s 7200 RPM 128MB
$315 - Toshiba NAS N300 10TB NAS 3.5-Inch Internal Hard Drive- SATA 6 Gb/s 7200 RPM 256MB
$80 - Seagate FireCuda 2TB SSHD 2.5 Inch SATA
$57/96/186 - XPG GAMMIX 256/512GB/1TB S11 Pro 3D NAND PCIe NVMe Gen3x4 M.2 2280 SSD
$106 - Crucial P1 1TB 3D NAND NVMe PCIe M.2 SSD
$107 - Crucial BX500 960GB 3D NAND SATA 2.5-Inch Internal SSD
$242 - Crucial MX500 2TB 3D NAND SATA 2.5 Inch SSD
$104 - Toshiba Canvio Advance 4TB Portable External Hard Drive USB 3.0, White
$120 - WD Elements 6TB USB 3.0 External HDD Color Black WDBWLG0060HBK-NESN
$95 - Samsung 860 EVO 500GB 2.5" SATA III SSD
&#x200B;
$81 - Ballistix Sport LT 16GB Kit (2x8GB) DDR4 3000 MT/s (PC4-24000) CL15 SR Gray
$137 - Ballistix Elite 16GB Kit (8GBx2) DDR4 3600 MT/s (PC4-28800) CL16 SR Ships within 1-2 months
$73 - Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (4x4GB) DDR4 3000 CL16 Black Non-prime, ships within 1-3 months
&#x200B;
Other Components
$110 - DEEPCOOL Castle 240 RGB Liquid CPU Cooler Non-prime
$170 - Corsair H115i 280mm RGB Platinum AIO Liquid CPU Cooler
$35 - Deepcool RF120 3-Pack 120mm RGB PWM Fans with Fan Hub and Extension Non-prime
$805 - ZOTAC Gaming GeForce RTX 2080 Twin Fan 8GB
$198 - Gigabyte Z390 AORUS PRO ATX Motherboard
$120 - Corsair RM750x 80 Plus Gold Fully Modular ATX PSU CP-9020179-NA
$170 - Corsair HX850i High Performance 80+ Platinum Fully Modular ATX PSU
$60 - Corsair Fan Controller Commander Pro CL-9011110-WW
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$33 - Logitech G602 Wireless Gaming Mouse
$40 - Logitech G403 Prodigy Wired Gaming Mouse
$50 - Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum RGB Tunable Gaming Mouse
$50 - Razer DeathAdder Elite: True 16,000 5G Optical Sensor
$64 - SteelSeries Rival 600 Gaming Mouse, 12,000 CPI TrueMove3+ Dual Optical Sensor
$55 - Logitech MX Master 2S Wireless Mouse, Graphite Ships within 1-2 months
$22 - NETGEAR 8-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch
$25 - HyperX Double Shot Black & White Pudding PBT Keycaps - 104 Mechanical Keycap Set for Cherry MX
$30 - Corsair mm350 Anti-Fray Cloth Gaming Mouse Pad Extended XL
$10.50 - SteelSeries QcK Gaming Surface - Medium Cloth
$23 - SteelSeries QcK Gaming Surface - Medium Hard
$135 - Razer Huntsman: Opto-Mechanical Switch
$55 - Logitech C920 Webcam HD Pro (960-000764)
&#x200B;
$10.91 - AmazonBasics AAA High-Capacity Rechargeable Batteries (8-Pack) Pre-charged 850mAh
$12.48 - AmazonBasics AAA Rechargeable Batteries (12-Pack) 800mAh
$18.89 - AmazonBasics AA High-Capacity Rechargeable Batteries (8-Pack) Pre-charged 2400mAh
$1.49 - Oreos and other snacks :)
You can already buy them stupid cheap. I have two SanDisk 256GB cards I got for $33 each. One is in my Switch. The other is in a drawer until I figure out what to use it for. Maybe my PSP.
Amazon had the 400GB card on sale the other day for $46
The 512GB card was on sale yesterday for $57.
Anything small, 8GB, 16GB, 32GB, 64GB can be had for like $16 or less.
128GB for like $25
—
400GB - $57
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074RNRM2B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9we3Cb75R3QBB
256GB - $38
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0758NHWS8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nwe3CbRK04R5Q
200GB - $33
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JY5T7T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.ye3CbS3CT6AH
128GB - $20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JYC4XM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Mxe3CbAWACBJR
64GB - $12
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JYVKNX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9ze3CbBCX3549
32GB - $7
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JWXGNT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AAe3CbBV81WFY
16GB - $6
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073K14CVB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1Ae3CbG0JXK3K
Not sure how much cheaper you expect them to get.
Klipsch ProMedia 2.1's can be had for around $150 and they're just delightful
edit: link http://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-ProMedia-Certified-Computer-Speaker/dp/B000062VUO
and i've owned these on two seperate occasions and loved em both times
http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW
In this scene, this is supposed to be a wireless ID scanner. Though obviously someone just wanted something that "looked techy" and could display a custom message.
I'm very sorry for the picture of a TV (or can it be considered meta?)
Get your own here:
Logitech G13 Programmable Gameboard with LCD Display https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NEK2GE
Audio is shit. Someone get my man a good microphone. Is he recording from the toilet?
If cleaning PCs for dust and hair is something you do regularly, I highly recommend investing in one of these. Way more powerful than canned air and never runs out (I was able to use mine to clear my deck of leaves). I have one at the office and one at home. They're great. Cheaper in the long term too.
WAY too much money you can get one for $50 that works just as well!!!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0719D9YL7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Seconded. 128GB for $20.99, 256 for $44.99, 512 for $99.99. There's no fucking reason not to.
Get one of these instead http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW
Remember 200 GB cards are only $70
You can get a comparable SanDisk for $42 without a one to two month wait.
I use Beyerdynamic DT990 (600 ohms) for competitive shooters and Sennheiser HD800 for singleplayer/immersive games.
My go-to recommendation is Sivga SV007 with V-MODA BoomPro. If you need sound isolation, then I suggest Status Audio CB-1.
If you're open to using a mic such as Antlion ModMic or Massdrop Minimic, then I have other headphone recommendations and suggestions.
If you want virtual surround sound, then you can use e.g. Astro Mixamp Pro TR, Creative Sound BlasterX G6, or Turtle Beach Elite Pro TAC. I recommend SBX Pro Studio from Creative as a virtual surround sound processor; it has less compression and better positional audio than Dolby Headphone.
&nbsp;
Setup
---
You attach the BoomPro mic by inserting it directly into the headphone, which replaces the original headphone cable.
The cable terminates in a single 3.5 mm connector, so you can connect it directly to the controller or any other device with a headset jack. If you connect it to a regular headphone jack, then the mic won't work. No mics will. If the device has separate headphone and mic ports, then you need to use a TRRS Y-splitter, which is included with the BoomPro.
To connect the headset to the USB port on PS4, you can use an audio USB adapter.
My recommendations:
At approximately the same volume, I heard no difference between these and the controller. I heard no hiss, hum, crackling, or other noise. The difference in the mic quality was negligible.
&nbsp;
Sound
---
SV007:
SV007 a well-balanced sound profile. The mid-bass, which is where boom and punch come from, is a little bit boosted. The sub-bass, which is how deep the bass goes and is where rumble comes from, is a little bit reduced. The overall bass is clean. The treble is close to neutral. It's clean, smooth, and crisp. The midrange is clear, not tinny or muffled. The overall clarity is great.
It has a large soundstage, very good imaging and separation, and good to very good detail retrieval for competitive shooters. I assess headphones mainly in Battlefield: Bad Company 2, a multiplayer game I've played for over 3000 hours and I thrive at relying on sound cues.
Soundstage is perceived space and environment of sound. It's width, depth, and height. I mean the type of soundstage that the headphone produces. Many games have a narrow, shallow, and short soundstage. A small soundstage makes the environment around you sound confined or boxed in. With a large soundstage, the environment sounds more spatial and expansive. Imaging is inherent to the audio content. It's how accurately the locations of sounds/objects are reproduced. Soundstage and imaging constitute positional audio, and you could say they are the stereo equivalent of virtual surround sound. Before you make any stances on virtual surround sound, I recommend that you read this post I wrote. Separation is how you discern individual sounds from a range of overlapping sounds. You don't need to be concerned with this if you play competitively.
BoomPro:
You can actually judge for yourself by listening to recordings on YouTube.
I prefer to watch Podcastage for mic reviews.
&nbsp;
Build, ergonomics, & features
---
SV007:
SV007 has an open design (as you can see with the grilles on the earcups), so sound passes freely in and out, unlike closed headphones which attenuate sound from passing through. The benefits of an open design are generally a larger soundstage and better imaging. If your ears tend to heat up, it may help mitigate this as it allows more airflow and heat to dissipate.
The build is sturdy and lightweight, featuring metal yokes, hinges, and headband. It has no flimsy or squeaky parts. The cups are made of wood. They tilt and swivel and can lie flat. I have average sized ears and the earpads fit around them and don't press them against the inside of the cups. The pads are plush and have a smooth and relatively high-quality protein leather. The headband has decent padding, but the headphone has great weight distribution so it doesn't exert pressure on top of my head and doesn't cause hotspots. Adjusting the headband is smooth and easy and it stays firmly in place. The clamping force is mild and isn't too loose or too tight for my average sized head. The build quality is excellent with a near immaculate finish all around.
BoomPro:
BoomPro has a flexible aluminum neck and a tangle-free, braided cable that's free of microphonics. The game volume and mic mute controls are easy to adjust and don't accidentally adjust themselves when rubbing against your clothes. Adjusting them is smooth and consistent, not scratchy, sluggish, or sticky. The mic is as non-obtrusive as a boom mic can be and is almost unnoticeable in my peripheral vision.
&nbsp;
^Formatted ^in ^Reddit ^Enhancement ^Suite.
To my surprise after doing a little research, this thing is no joke. Reviews are off the chain with this thing. If I didn't already spend a lot of money on clothes I would have definitely considered getting this. Maybe next year!
https://www.amazon.com/Sandisk-Ultra-128GB-Micro-Adapter/dp/B073JYC4XM/ref=dp_ob_title_ce
It's not really that big of a steal. Normal price is 49.99$ for the NEWER model...and it's on sale for 40-45$ on Amazon.
SanDisk Ultra 200GB microSDXC UHS-I Card - $29.21 (26% off)
SanDisk Ultra 400GB microSDXC UHS-I Card - $62.30 (34% off)
Both are near Black Friday value per GB. The majority of "all digital games" Switch owners should be happy with the 200GB. Those with a mix of physical and digital are usually fine with 128GB. But if you need a new card the 200GB is worth considering at only $8 more.
The Switch only supports up to 104MB/s max read speed. Eurogamer found only a 0.3 second load time difference between a 30MB/s card and a 90MB/s card. For most users you want to consider capacity (how much do you need) and value (cost per GB), not speed.
This is the ticket if you want some real power!
http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW
That'll blow your pants right off.
These are great headphones for the money. You can have a great budget gaming headset if you pair it with the V-Moda BoomPro for $30: https://www.amazon.com/V-MODA-BoomPro-Microphone-Gaming-Communication/dp/B00BJ17WKK
It may be budget, but they will blow any "gaming" headset out of the water. I got this for my brother, and they are pretty comparable to my HD58x if not better for when it comes to gaming.
Welp, looks like you have to set up a public webcam bruh.
http://smile.amazon.com/Logitech-Webcam-Widescreen-Calling-Recording/dp/B006JH8T3S/ref=smi_ge_rl_btns3_setch?_encoding=UTF8&amp;*Version*=1&amp;*entries*=0&amp;pldnNewCustomer=1
For $3 more you can get twice as much storage
&#x200B;
Or $6 less for the same amount of storage
https://www.amazon.com/TEAMWOLF-Water-Resistant-Mechanical-Keyboard-Equipped/dp/B01MTUDZS8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494265708&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=teamwolf
Blue Switches, I have it and love it.
Brown switches:
https://www.amazon.com/Velocifire-Tenkeyless-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches/dp/B01MS8YTYX/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494265632&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=brown+switches
https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-68-Keys-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01E8KO2B0/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494265632&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=brown+switches
Don't suck. Blow.
Picked up a Datavac for myself and it's working good so far: https://www.amazon.com/Metro-ED500-DataVac-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW
SanDisk Ultra microSDXC UHS-I cards
<sigh>
You have anger management issues.
Not subject to debate. Not a question.
You have anger management issues.
You should do something about that.
> my little sister accidentally spilled a glass of water on my computer at home and it wasn’t working
This isn't /r/techsupport or /r/computertechs but I can tell you with moderate confidence that your data is still on the hard drive, and can be recovered pretty easily.
If it's a slightly older, or value-oriented laptop, it probably has a 2.5" drive inside.
You just need a nerd to open the laptop, remove the drive, hook it up to something like this and bada-bing-bang-boom your old laptop will show up like a giant USB-Stick.
If it's a modern, higher-performance, or super-mega-ultra-thin laptop it may be glued shut, in which case the level of difficulty just went way the hell up - but if the laptop is already dead, and if you are writing the laptop off as unworthy of repair, then we can use destructive methods to open the laptop to remove the storage device with all your stuff on it.
SOME laptops do not use a removable internal storage device. These are pretty much always the super-ultra-thin devices. You might be in a real pickle with one of these devices.
But if we're talking about a $600 Acer from BestBuy, it's a really easy task you could probably do yourself with a little Googling.
I don't want to delve any deeper into this in this community. Please feel free to engage the nerds in /r/techsupport or something for guidance on what to do.
But I wanted you to know the situation may not be unsalvagable.
Now, back to your intended LOR teacher. Odds are fair that you just inflicted serious damage on your relationship with them.
I wouldn't write you anywhere nearly as positive a LOR after this event as I might have before this event.
And if you're being honest with yourself, neither would you.
Anger Management. Get some help.
>grease my fans
lol that made my morning. Thank you.
DUSTING DUSTING DUSTING: Just get some air cans or an electric duster (Cheaper over the long run.) and dust your computer monthly.
Do NOT let the fans spin freely when you do your dusting. Rotate them manually every few blows and hold them down whilst cleaning.
Thermal Paste: Replacing the thermal paste isn't much of a priority, it works best after it settles in. Replace like once a year if you really need to (If you see a rise in CPU temps)
_
Liquid Cooling: If you have liquid cooling then clean out the pipes and blocks when it starts to get dirty (Every 6 months - 1year?)
_
That's about all the maintenance I can think of, can anyone else think of anything?
Something like this: Datavac ED500
edit -https://www.amazon.com/Metro-ED500-DataVac-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
https://www.amazon.com/Metro-Datavac-Safe-Electric-Duster/dp/B00U01YVYK
You can get a 200GB for 66$ https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-200GB-Micro-SDSDQUAN-200G-G4A/dp/B00V62XBQQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484492789&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=micro+sdxc
same price on Amazon showing for me with free 1 day shipping for prime
It makes no difference. If you're going to drop that much money buy him these and this.
Parts List & More
Type|Item
:--|:--
Case|IN WIN 101 Mid Tower High Air Flow Gaming Case w/ Tempered Glass Full Size Window (White)
CPU|Intel® Core™ Processor i7-7700K 4.20GHZ 8MB Intel Smart Cache LGA1151 (Kaby Lake)
Case Fan|3x 120mm AZZA Hurricane RGB Fans
CPU Cooler|Thermaltake Floe Riing RGB 240mm Premium Edition Liquid CPU Cooling System w/ Copper Cold Plate (2 x Standard 120MM Fans)
SSD|240GB WD Green Series SATA-III 6 SSD
HDD|Seagate 3TB 64MB Cache 7200RPM SATA III 6.0Gb/s
RAM|XPG Z1 Gaming Series 16GB DDR4-3000 Dual Channel DDR4 Kit, CL16 (2x 8GB), White
Motherboard|ASUS ROG Strix Z270E Gaming ATX w/ RGB, USB 3.1, 3 PCIe x16, 4 PCIe x1, 6 SATA3, 2 M.2 SATA/PCIe
OS|Windows 10 Home (64-bit Edition)
Power Supply|600 Watts - Standard 80 Plus Certified Power Supply - SLI/CrossFireX Ready
Video Card|GeForce® GTX 1060 3GB GDDR5
Monitor|Dell S2415h 24-Inch x 3
Monitor Stand|VIVO Single Stand & VIVO Dual Stand
Headset|Steelseries Arctis 7
Headset Stand|Avantree Universal Aluminum Desk Headphone Stand Hanger with Cable Holder
Keyboard|Logitech K780 Multi-Device Wireless Keyboard
Mouse|Logitech MX Master 2S Wireless Mouse (White)
Webcam|Logitech HD Pro Webcam C920
Plants|Artificial Plants, Amyhomie Set of 4 Mini Fake Succulent Plants
Desk|98x1 1/8" EKBACKEN Kitchen Counter Top resting on two White ALEX Drawers. There's also two OLOV White Adjustable Legs underneath for support.
Laptop|Apple 13" MacBook Air 256GB SSD 2015 Model
Laptop Stand|Vertical Laptop Stand Holder by MOTONG
Laptop Skin|Solid State White Skin by DecalGirl
Mini Fridge|Danby DAR017A3WDB Contemporary Classic Compact All Refrigerator, White
Lamp|Studio Designs 12024 Swing Arm Lamp, 13-watt, White
Lamp Bulb|TP-Link Multicolour Smart LED Bulb
Wallpaper|Nathan Nyx on ArtStation
Wall Scrolls|Tokyo Ghoul, No Game No Life, Attack On Titan, Seven Deadly Sins
Console|Nintendo Switch - Gray Joy-Con
Console Skin|Solid State White by DecalGirl
Controller|Nintendo Switch Pro Controller
Cable Management|Reusable Velcro Cable Ties, 2 x White Cable Raceway Channels, and 2 x White Cable Box
USB Charger|RAVPower 60W 12 A 6-Port USB Charger
Router|Linksys Velop Tri-band Whole Home WiFi Mesh System 2-Pack
Trash Bin|FILUR (White)
Logitech M570 trackball mouse - $19.99
I've had a 15 year trackball hiatus, and it's finally over.
I reckon the 200GB SanDisk Ultra is more dense.
Rather than click the link and give them affiliate money (thanks for the spam!) just go to this link, affiliate spam free:
http://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-200GB-Micro-SDSDQUAN-200G-G4A/dp/B00V62XBQQ/
Sennheiser HD650s with an O2 amp, and E-DAC. I have a Zalman ZM-MIC1 as a mic, which is great although I'd recommend a free standing one to most people.
I love them, great for what I listen to. Very good for gaming too. You pretty much forget you are wearing them.
If it doesn't have to be surround, the Klipsch ProMedia system is hard to beat for the price.
Personally, I'd rather have a half-decent stereo setup than a shitty surround one.
If you are going full digital the mininum you need is 200/256GB but if you still buy physical games then 128GB is good enough. I bought one with 128GB but from Samsung because I trust them more when it comes to flash storage(Their SSDs are great) and because I have read multiple times that you can get fake ones when buying this SanDisk model even with Amazon as a seller.
Here is the Samsung model if you want to purchase one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XWZWYVP/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010Q57S62/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apis_1485026011231
I got this and a Type-C cable to use with my portable battery.
This
http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW/ref=sr_1_1?s=hpc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1412294826&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=Data+vac
Is the real pro tip. So much better and cheaper in the long run. Powerful, doesn't freeze your hand if you use it too long and you can turn it upside down without shooting out harmful chemicals.
Yes, it matches the lowest price this card has ever been on Amazon.
USB to SATA cables are $10 on Amazon.com problem solved.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/
I'm currently using the V-moda boom pro. Haven't had any complaints from teammates about audio issues, in fact have heard that i sound very clear compared to others talking. If it's compatible with your headphones (standard 3.5 jack) i would recommend, soley based on single wire set up and no need for magnetic adhesive on your head set.
This.
I use one of these... was a $40 investment at the time and definitely have gotten my money's worth.
Fear not, for you can still enjoy the wonders of surround sound with Hi-Fi headphones. Most "gaming" headsets use a built-in DAC (and BS marketing magic) to emulate surround sound over stereo. You can do the same thing using Razer Surround or similar software for free.
You'll have to decide between a closed or open earcup design. If you're not already familiar: a closed-back design will give you better noise isolation and more bass response, while an open-back design will give you a wider soundstage and better positional accuracy. 95% of headphones are closed-back, but there are some nice open-back options in your price range.
The Audio-Technica ATH-M40x ($100) are a decent option. They're durable, portable, closed-back headphones with a lot of bass response.
The Sennheiser HD 558 ($115) are a steal at that price. They're incredibly comfortable, open-back headphones with a very wide soundstage and warm signature. They'll do much better with surround software.
Both of those options have a relatively low impedance, so you shouldn't have to worry about amping (although they'll still benefit from it). If you're looking for a mic, the ModMic 4.0 is on MassDrop right now. It's a bit pricy, but I've heard great things about the sound quality. If you want something a bit cheaper, the Zalman Clip-On is always an easy option.
Edit:
This might be slightly skewed, because a brick sitting on my head would be more comfortable than the headband on my Q701s.
Hey man, buy this: https://www.amazon.com/Metro-ED500-DataVac-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW
No more wasting money on cans of air.
I'm updating as I go. Give me a second guys. Difference in savings is based on camelcamelcamel.com average on an item & sorry the links are all Smile links since I have Smile Always enabled.
Edit: Just caught a CP 870 Snorlax.
RAM | Price | Link | Savings | Comments
---|---|----|----|----
Corsair Dominator Platinum Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3200MHz | $95.99 | Link | $41.01 | n/a
CORSAIR DOMINATOR Platinum Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4 DRAM 3000MHz | $193.99 | Link | $85 | n/a
Crucial 32GB Kit (16GBx2) DDR4 2133 MT/s (PC4-17000) SODIMM 260-Pin Memory | $95.99 | Link | $40.69 | n/a
Ballistix Sport 32GB Kit (8GBx4) DDR3 1600 MT/s (PC3-12800) CL9 @1.5V UDIMM 240-Pin Memory | $95.87 | Link | $44.14 | n/a
Crucial 16GB Kit (8GBx2) DDR3L 1600 SODIMM Memory for Mac System | $42.79 | Link | $16.54 | n/a
Crucial 8GB Single DDR3L 1600 MT/s (PC3L-12800) SODIMM 204-Pin Memory | $20.79 | Link | $9.70 | n/a
Monitors | Price | Link | Savings | Comments
---|---|----|----|----
Samsung U28E590D 28-Inch UHD LED-Lit Monitor | $441.85 | Link | $4.84 | n/a
PSU | Price | Link | Savings | Comments
---|---|----|----|----
Corsair RMx Series, RM1000x, 1000W, Fully Modular Power Supply, 80+ Gold Certified, 10 year warranty | $129.99 | Link | $35.57 | n/a
Corsair RMi Series, RM750i, 750 Watt (750W), Fully Modular Power Supply, 80+ Gold Certified, 10 year warranty | $99.99 | Link | $20.23 | n/a
HDD | Price | Link | Savings | Comments
---|---|----|----|----
Seagate 4TB Gaming SSHD(Solid State Hybrid Drive) SATA 6Gb/s 64MB Cache 3.5-Inch Internal Bare Drive | $116.99 | Link | $26.84 | n/a
Headsets | Price | Link | Savings | Comments
---|---|----|----|----
HyperX Cloud II Gaming Headset | $85.10 | Link | $7 | n/a
Sennheiser PC 350 Special Edition 2015 | $89.99 | Link | $65.53 | n/a
Corsair VOID Surround Hybrid Stereo Gaming Headset with Dolby 7.1 | $59.99 | Link | $14.12 | n/a
Case | Price | Link | Savings | Comments
---|---|----|----|----
Corsair Obsidian Series 750D Performance Full Tower Case | $99.99 | Link | $46.79 | n/a
Keyboards | Price | Link | Savings | Comments
---|---|----|----|----
Logitech G13 Programmable Gameboard with LCD Display | $38.99 | Link | $20.56 | n/a
Logitech Wireless Touch Keyboard K400 Plus | $31.73 | Link | -$1.84 (lol) | I already own this. AMA?
Mice | Price | Link | Savings | Comments
---|---|----|----|----
Logitech M570 Wireless Trackball | $19.99 | Link | $10.69 | n/a
Logitech Wireless Performance Mouse MX | $66.02 | Link | -$4.62 | n/a
Corsair Gaming SCIMITAR RGB MOBA/MMO Gaming Mouse | $59.99 | Link | $14 | n/a
Logitech G402 Hyperion Fury FPS Gaming Mouse | $43.00 | Link | $3.04 | n/a
Flash Memory | Price | Link | Savings | Comments
---|---|----|----|----
Transcend 32GB JetFlash 790 USB 3.0 Flash Drive | $7.49 | Link | $4.40 | n/a
PNY Elite X 32GB USB 3.0 Flash Drive | $8.49 | Link | ~$5 | n/a
PNY Turbo Elite 64GB USB 3.0 Flash Drive | $11.99 | Link | $3 | n/a
Transcend 32GB MicroSDHC Class 10 UHS-1 Memory Card with Adapter | $6.99 | Link | $13.61 | n/a
PNY Elite 64GB MicroSDXC Card with Adapter | $13.99 | Link | $3 | n/a
Transcend 64GB MicroSDXC Class 10 UHS-1 Memory Card with Adapter | $13.99 | Link | $16.63 | n/a
Temp (Title) | Temp (Price) | Temp (link) | Temp (Savings) | n/a
| Introduction | Last-Gen Crusher | Next-Gen Crusher | Value (Recommended) | Enthusiast | Kiss of Gaben |
|:-----------:|:-----------:|:------------:|:------------:|:------------:|:------------:|
Last Updated on October 13th, 2013
IMPORTANT! READ THIS!
The Radeon R9 series coming out. That means it may be a good idea to WAIT on buying any parts. Existing Radeons will get cheaper, and the new ones will offer better performance. Thank you.
Introduction
Here I will be explaining why I chose the parts I did in the various builds, a little information on how to assemble for those who need reference, and other important tidbits of information. Stay tuned. If you have any questions, just tail one onto this post and it will be added if it's helpful for others.
Why does no build include a display, mouse, or keyboard?
Glad you asked. Chances are, the builder already has some or all of these things. If not, you'll want to shop around for well-rated 1080p displays and well-rated mice and keyboards. Try to get a mechanical keyboard if you can, the difference really is night and day. There's also a large table below with a lot of good parts to choose from. Take a look!
Why do you only have AMD cards?
I'm working on adding both nVidia and AMD options where applicable. If you find an nVidia or AMD card that's faster and the same price as the one that's already offered, please do leave me a comment so I can add it. AMD and nVidia are pretty much the same now, so it mostly comes down to price and multi-GPU needs. It's worth noting that nVidia's SLi technology is better than AMD's Crossfire. I normally end up with AMD cards for single-GPU and nVidia for multi-GPU.
Why are you using AMD CPUs? They suck. You stupid fanboy, etc.
Reason #1: PCs are supposed to last a long time, and Intel's latest Ivy Bridge and Haswell chips have a measly 3-5 years of life expectancy before they dry out on the inside. Why do they dry out on the inside, you may ask? Because Intel decided to stray away from the industry standard "fluxless solder" they had under the CPU lid and use cheap thermal paste instead.
Reason #2: AMD FX chips are not nearly as bad as the big reviewers suspiciously made it look. It does indeed trade blows with Intel, but overall in a (real world, read: not 800x600 benchmarks) normal situation, it does better. Game streaming, straight-up gaming, and productivity all do well on the FX chips.
Reason #3: Next-Gen console ports (AKA, a chunk of all PC games for the next 8 years) are going to be built for AMD's x86 module-based architecture as well as their GCN GPU architecture. Sources: [1], [2]
Reason #4: Evolving software. When the 8-core chips were first announced in 2011, we could barely utilize 6 cores with our games and applications. It was so bad that AMD and Microsoft had to release a patch for Windows just for the things to work right. Times have changed. Developers are better at juggling cores and continue to get better as time goes on. In optimal situations with the cores being fully utilized, a $199 8350 can even land a punch on the newer $339 i7-4770k.
Reason #5: AMD's motherboards have better backwards and forwards compatibility. You can use anything as far back as an AM2 single-core Sempron up to a 2014 Steamroller. They're also generally a good bit cheaper than the Intel-based boards with comparable features.
Reason #6: Have you seen how cheap AMD's CPUs are? The FX-6300 and FX-8320 are absolute monsters. You would have to be crazy to ignore them.
Reason #7: If you really wanted an Intel chip, you could easily swap it out anyways. I just don't want to be recommending bad chips.
Why so many watts?
The extra wattage in these builds leaves room for you to grab a stronger CPU and graphics card if needed.
Why no optical DVD drive?
The DVD drive has been intentionally left out, just borrow one when you install your OS.
Why no OS?
The OS has been left out because most builders already have a disc laying around. If they don't they'll have a preference on which version and which edition of Windows or Linux they plan on using. Even if it's already been used you can still get it activated.
Why do the stronger builds include an SSD along with the hard drive?
It's worth it, trust me. I would have included them in the lower builds, but $100 extra would have really put a damper on their appeal.
I want to see some more quality parts!
The builds don't include coolers, monitors, mice, or keyboards. Here are a couple of each if you're having trouble picking them yourself.
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | $29.98 @ Outlet PC |
| Monitor | Asus VS238H-P 23.0" Monitor | $147.58 @ Newegg |
Keyboard | Cooler Master Storm QuickFire Rapid Wired Gaming Keyboard | $74.98 @ SuperBiiz
| Microphone | Pyle Home PDMIKC5 Professional Table Top Condenser Microphone | $25.84 @ Amazon |
| Microphone | Blue Microphones Yeti USB Microphone - Silver Edition | $106.02 @ Amazon |
Mouse | Logitech G500 Wired Laser Mouse | $55.98 @ Outlet PC
Mouse | Logitech G9x Wired Laser Mouse | $72.98 @ SuperBiiz
Speakers | Corsair Gaming Audio Series SP2500 232W 2.1ch Speakers | $219.99 @ Amazon
Speakers | Logitech Z313 25W 2.1ch Speakers | $34.99 @ Amazon
Headphones | Audio-Technica ATH-M35 Headphones | $69.00 @ Amazon
Headphones | Sennheiser HD 380 Pro Headphones | $140.99 @ Amazon |
***
Also, feel free to link to / paste source anywhere on Reddit. I take full responsibility for any negative vote brigading my posts may be bombarded with.
| Back to Guide |
|:-----------:|
I play exclusively on pc, on TV, from my couch/lazy boy, with 360 controller, audio through 5.1 surround sound reciever.
It's not only possible, it's relatively easy. Hdmi (from pc) to audio reciever, then hdmi to TV. Done.
I don't ever use a mouse; I use this to navigate websites, desktop etc.. and 360 controller to game. (That keyboard is ~$25)
I use my 59" TV as a main monitor and a 24" monitor as my second monitor (usually for Pandora while I game)
Feel free to ask me any other questions.
Edit: it should also be noted, if your friend plays a lot of multiplayer first person shooters, he might wanna figure out a k&m setup as controller users get absolutely destroyed by k&m.
Canned air is shit. Get something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW/
I have one and it's a solid purchase.
This thing.
I’m so glad you asked this question before buying. First of all, no question is silly. The daily question thread is exactly for these types of quick answer questions.
Do not buy the Nintendo official SD cards. They’re way way overpriced. I’d buy either a Sandisk or Samsung 128gb Micro SD card ($40), as that size give you best bang for the buck. I’ll link a couple below. If you want something smaller or bigger, just let me know.
I’m one of the mods here, so welcome to the subreddit!
Samsung 128gb
Sandisk 128gb
Hardware
Software
wal'd for the color scheme)pipes.sh -p 5 -RTo be honest it's far too high of a price. I bought this one: Sandisk 200GB MicroSDXC for just $50 about 1.5 months ago. Granted it's now at $77 on Amazon (though cheaper from other sellers, but be careful about counterfeits).
Still, at $77 you get a much better value instead of paying $50 for another 56GB. If you wait for it to go back down in price you can fetch it for $40-$50 which is much more reasonable (1/3 to 1/4 the price).
No problems on my end with the SanDisk :D
Edit: Updating price.
Canned air is terrible, get this and never worry about dust again:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001J4ZOAW
edit: fixed link. Thanks Devisioned.
a datavac is 50$ on amazon...
edit: link for the interested
If you really want a boom, use an Antlion Modmic or something similar. If you don't mind a boomless mic and only care about audio quality, get this one.
this is the standard price on amazon
Samsung evo is a better sd card and goes for the same price pretty much 100% of the time https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XWZWYVP/
Don't buy SD cards in physical retail locations like bestbuy. Their "deals" are just them marking the price down to the actual online price when most of the time they are marked way up. When they do go on sale for real you'll see them for like $25-$40 on Amazon.
EDIT Here's the Sandisk one https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-microSDXC-Standard-Packaging-SDSQUNC-128G-GN6MA/dp/B010Q57S62 for the same price on Amazon. No mention of a sale while bestbuy is claiming $118 off. Just bestbuy fuckary going on there. Samsung one I linked is still better as it's rated 30MB/s minimum while the sandisk is 10MB/s minimum.
Dedicates headphone plus mic. Don't waste your time with "headsets". Try this setup:
V-Moda Boom Mic + Phillips SHP9500. Zeos (of ZReviews) highly recommends those headphones, despite their relatively cheap cost. Check out his guide here and also /r/Zeos and /r/ZReviews
These paired with a V-MODA BoomPro Mic are a perfect match, and pretty much the best gaming headset you can put together for under $100. I've had mine for about 9 months now and it is fantastic, sounds amazing and haven't had any issues with either items.
Personally I took a black marker and covered up the big R and L. Simple solution to make them look less cheap.
If you're looking on the budget end, these keyboards will all be on sale tomorrow:
The first 2 are pretty regularly posted on this sub. The 3rd is highly recommended on /r/MechanicalKeyboards as a good budget board (though the more expensive Gateron keys are preferred). I'm not familiar with the 4th, but it looks like it could be the same as a MechanicalEagle with a different badge.
Here is a link that finds all of those keyboards except the Qisan (#3), which is filed under "Electronics" and "Video Games > Accessories" rather than "Computers & Accessories". It should also keep populating in case more keyboards show up, since deals are only posted 24 hours in advance. You should be able to change the price range, but I don't remember seeing any mechanical keyboards for $50+. You can also "Watch" the deals from that link so you are notified when they go live.
Hope this helps, and good luck finding a board!
Game Pad Keyboard
Red Swing Line Stapler There's a newer version as well.
Cleaning Cloth for monitors and glasses
Speakers Get any kind really. This is what I have and they are good for the money.
Timer - for when you tell your SO you will do something or to remember the roast in the oven.
Extra Monitor. Already have one? Add another!
Still have money left over? Try these sites:
Think Geek
Dude I Want That
I use separate headphones and mic.
This mic you can clip to the headphones cord or I have it sitting on the desk in front of me and have had no problems.
For that price you could buy some ridiculously good audiophile headphones that would likely blow these away. Pair that with an awesome $10 mic and you'd be good to go.
I would recommend avoiding headsets personally. Grab a nice pair of quality headphones like the Audio-Technica ATH-AD700's for example, and basically any microphone. This is a very popular microphone, people usually clip it onto their headphone cord.
The features seem to match up with this amazon listing of that yeti, but the dimensions are a bit off(the amazon ones could be estimates):
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Yeti-USB-Microphone-Silver/dp/B002VA464S
Get an electric blower duster instead. It saves money over time and is more powerful than a full can of compressed air will ever be.
Logitech K400 is more of a small-sized keyboard rather than mini, but is great for the living room if you need something you can actually type on.
Pair these up with the V-Moda boompro and you've got a very nice comfortable headset for less than $100
I use a sandisk 400 GB card
Right here
Although i havent touched smash since the issue was reported because little sketched to do so after the reports.
-
^Edit: ^Keep ^in ^mind
When i first bought it, it was 200 dollars and the reviews are alot of recommended, now i look at it and price has dropped, be wary of it though now that the reviews went from being solid 4-5 star reviews to a mixed of negative and positive reviews claiming either the cards they recieve are fake/DOA and they had to contact amazon and the seller to be reimbursed/ given a replacement card that was authetic, and others claim that they got a good card right off the bat.
If you do buy this card, make sure to look online to see how to find out if you have a fake card or not.
Just trying to look out for you guys
The one with up to 80 MB/s read speed is only $8 more.
Or don't and get a raspberry pi and put Kodi on it.
Here^1 is^2 everything^3 you^4 need to make a KodiPi with enough space to put a bunch of movies on (if you wish, otherise just get a smaller mSD). About the same price as a brand new roku, but you can do a lot more with it, and it's open source so you could do whatever you wanted with the device.
Amazon Link. Not trying to shill the product or anything, but it's import to keep our build's clean and this is a necessary tool.
The problem isn't thermal paste, it's that people don't regularly maintain their devices and/or don't place their consoles somewhere with proper ventilation. My PS4 is 4 years old and runs dead silent because after one year (once it was out of warranty), I routinely (every 4-6 months) open my PS4 and dust out the inside with my electric duster (https://www.amazon.com/Metro-ED500-DataVac-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW). I blast the fan, power supply, all the vents, and loosen any hardened dust with a soft paintbrush.
My PS4 runs quiet no matter what I'm playing. Same applies for my PS3, which is going to be 9 years old this year and still runs cool.
Those nooks can get nasty and properly cleaning a keyboard is a serious time sink.
But what I find works best is a microfiber cloth and one of these.
Metro Vac!
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-MicroSD-Adapter-MB-ME128GA-AM/dp/B06XWZWYVP/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504275088&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=128gb+micro+sd
I'll represent /r/mechanicalkeyboards here. Rant incoming.
Now, many of us do like to hook up smaller sized keyboards to our iPads (you'll occasionally see builds people do where they make a custom, usually wooden, case to hold their ipad and a keyboard like this).
I have many issues with this
Now the keycap look might be your style, and the build quality, battery, and bluetooth are also good features. However, the price just isn't justifyable.
If you want a mechanical keyboard/tablet duo, just get the magicforce 68: https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-68-Keys-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01E8KO2B0 , and a converter for usb to lightning for an ipad. Or nothing for an android microusb tablet (they include a converter for that in the box!). Literally a fraction of the cost, at only the loss of wireless/battery.
With leds on
Amazon link for the keyboard
Usually in the cheap range (<$40), it is hard to find browns. They pretty much all come with blues.
Other boards i like if you are in the market
Magicforce 68 Outemu browns
Redragon K552 Outemu blues
I bought a $40 Magicforce 68 for work. I really like it. Great Keyboard with Brown Outemu (Cherry MX copycat). It is a popular cheap choice on /r/mechanicalkeyboards.
Check all your boxes but backlit. If you really want a backlit one, you can find it for $60. Worth it? You see...
If you don't care about the logo on the card
https://www.amazon.co.uk/SanDisk-microSDXC-Memory-Adapter-Performance/dp/B073JYC4XM/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=SanDisk+128GB+Ultra&qid=1570574681&s=computers&sr=1-1
I've been working from home for around 5 years now, both salaried and freelancing.
I have a wife, a son and two dogs, so it's important to reenforce that separate between personal and professional time not just in myself but in my family as well.
I have the benefit of owning a large home with a separate office. My son and wife both know that when the doors are closed I am not to be bugged unless it's something important.
I also use a pair of great headphones and playing music to prevent being bothered by sounds outside my little bubble.
If you're still open to working from home and your main complaint is the lack of separation, try cordoning off a piece of your home as your professional office space and train yourself to do nothing but work from that spot. No gaming, no playing, just work and profit generation.
If that doesn't work for you, and you're in a small town with no true hacking spaces, local coffee shops are usually ok with remote workers as long as you continuously keep refilling your coffee cup with them.
I'd recommend purchasing some really good headphones with either integrated microphone, or a detachable cable that you can use a microphone with. Don't use the cables with the inline mics that don't extend away from the cable - I highly recommend the V-MODA Boom Mic. My headphones of choice at the moment are the beyerdynamic Custom One Pro Plus because of the size (I have large ears, these rest around my ears and not on them which is important) and comfort level. Also, they sound amazing with a small $30 amp.
Having the mic be directional so that you can put it directly in front of your mouth and circumaural headphones are both important for filtering out background noises.
With this you can now ignore your phone and use Google Voice, Hangouts, Skype, Slack for voice calls.
Anyway, good luck. We're counting on you.
If you're hardstuck at 50 bucks these are ok. Be aware that the "7.1" is SIMULATED and often sounds weird depending on game.
I think people should consider the Philips SHP9500 on a deep sale for $55 for Black Friday + VModa boom mic $30 as this is a pretty significant improvement in both headphone and mic quality with the bonus that the SHP9500 can be used for listening to music.
You gotta check out a 2.5 enclosure, just pop in the ssd, connect it to the laptop by usb and clone https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=sata+hdd+enclosure&qid=1568905424&s=gateway&sr=8-5
Non-funky link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001J4ZOAW
>but all of the responses are "get a good pair of headphones and a clip on mic"
Because this is the best option.
I personally use the clip on Zalman but I've heard great things about the ModMic. If you got a great pair of headphones(many use the AD700, HD558/HD598, etc) and attached this it would essentially be the same as a gaming headset but with significantly better sound quality and better build quality.
If you're going to be stubborn and not accept this, I reccommend going for the Sennheiser PC360. It's typically around the same price as the HD598 but not quite as good...
EDIT: Added links to some products, note that I only looked them up on Amazon, you can probably find everything cheaper if you shop around...
---
EDIT 2: DarkWingPig mentioned virtual surround sound, which is what draws many people towards gaming headsets. You can add this functionality to any pair of headphones using a sound card such as the Asus Xonar DG, Asus Xonar DS, or the Asus Xonar DX.
I have an Asus Xonar DX and, in my opinion, it can work well in certain games such as Counterstike, where knowing the position of a sound is essential, but I don't use it for the majority of games...
A user over at Head Fi called Mad Lust Envy has created a thread reviewing many different pairs of headphones in relation to how well they work with Dolby Headphone(virtual surround sound).
Theres the Samsung 128GB 100MB/s (U3) MicroSD EVO (MB-ME128GA/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XWZWYVP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_Ju5qvCT7wJE1I
Though it's $25 right now I got it on sale for $20 in December.
This one! tbh I was looking for a 40%, but $40 was too good to pass up, and this one is still pretty small.
don't worry about linking it or anything ;)
https://smile.amazon.com/SanDisk-400GB-microSDXC-Memory-Adapter/dp/B074RNRM2B/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1AZL0S0A1G7OK&keywords=400gb+micro+sd+card&qid=1563216945&s=gateway&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sprefix=400%2Caps%2C163&sr=8-3
Just FYI the 400gb MicroSD card seems like a great value at $62.30
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-400GB-microSDXC-Memory-Adapter/dp/B074RNRM2B?ref_=Oct_DLandingS_PC_f1e793a0_NA&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
considering SanDisk now sells 400GB, I think Nintendo made a right move.
...now if only they started including 64GB right outta da box.
29.99 for the sandisk 128gb on amazon right now if anyone's interested
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B010Q57S62/ref=dp_olp_new_mbc?ie=UTF8&amp;condition=new
Edit: nvm dead
Wall of text ahead. Please, read only if you are really interested...
What I usually recommend when someone ask for advice about gaming headsets is: Gaming headset are crap 99% of the time. They provide very poor sound quality, and any good headphone (literally, even 40$ ones) will sound far better than expensive 300$ headsets. The question is not if headphones are better than headset (the answer is “Hell, YEAH”). The question is, are they better for you?
What are you planning to use your headphones for? Just for gaming, or for gaming and music listening?
If the answer is “just for gaming”, then ask yourself if a Hifi headphone is what you need. Usually games don’t really need high quality headphones, since they provide low quality sound, and you will be more concentrated gaming than listening. In that scenario, everything will serve you, and gaming headsets have the advantage of the integrated microphone.
So, if you want something good for gaming, and just for gaming, with integrated microphone, then the only two headsets with good enough quality sound (aka don’t suck) are:
HyperX Cloud (70$)
Sennheiser G4me One (170$)
Both are good choices. Or go with any fancy RGB headset you find (Logitech, Razer, Corsair, Steelseries, etc), you will most probably don’t notice the difference while gaming.
BUT, if you plan to use them for music listening besides gaming, then keep reading.
Hifi headphones for gaming have the disadvantage of having to deal with the micro thing. None of them have microphone incorporated, and you must either use a desk microphone like this, use a modmic like this one. or if your budget is tight, something like this. The first one requires desk space. The second and third one are detachable micro, with an extra cable you’ll have to deal with. Any of them are a nuisance. Any solution is annoying. All of them are an extra expense that must be accounted. If micro is a must and you are not willing to bother with this solutions, please, go back to HyperX Cloud or G4me One.
Ok, so, you really want some damn good headphones, that also can be used for gaming! Keep reading, please (are you bored yet?).
You can choose Closed back headphones (the classic ones you have already used. Closed back models offer good isolation and do not leak sound. This is your choice when there are people around you, or you want isolation from noisy a environment.) or Open Back headphones (Open back models offer next to no isolation and will leak sound -and allow you to hear what happens around you-, but they are the best sounding models). Open headphones achieve the best sound, soundstage (feeling that sound is coming from around you) and imaging (ability to locate the origin of one sound).
If you are here because you want to get a replacement for a gaming headset, I would recommend you Open back, but since they don’t isolate, you must choose. If isolation is required, get closed back, if that’s not a concern, go open.
Some closed back cans:
Audio-Technica ATH-M40x. 100$. Balanced headphones, very good feedback from lots of people. Typical entry level headphones to the rabbit hole.
Sennheiser HD 598Cs. 125$. Balanced, very very detailed, great instrumental separation. Comfortable as hell, Very recommended.
Beyerdynamic DT770. 160$. V-shaped signature (lots of bass and lots of treble). Great for explosions, movies, and rock. Treble can be harsh if you are sensible. Get the 32 ohm version, as the 80 (may) and 250 (do) need an amplifier to work properly.
Those are some examples of entry-mid level of closed cans. There are lots more, depending of your budget!
As for open cans:
Superlux HD668b. 40$. Those are THE CANS. The best quality for low budget you can get. Hands down. Great soundstage, Bass light. They are not too comfortable, but pads can be changed for a deluxe comfort (extra expense). You are not getting anything better at this price. For gaming in a budget, this are the headphones you were looking for,
Philips SHP9500. 80$. Mid-forward signature. Good soundstage, great comfort. Very detailed. Another amazing quality for the budget headphone.
Sennheiser HD 598 SR. 170$. Very similar to the HD 598Cs, but with open back. Wider soundstage, a little less bass. Very balanced headphones. Super-duper comfortable. Great for long gaming sessions.
Philips Fidelio X2. 250$. V-shaped signature. Those are in another league. Build quality is just.. OMG. Extreme soundstage and imaging. More comfortable than the HD 598. Bass is BOOOOOM!!!. A little pricey, and can be somewhat fatiguing to listen if you are treble sensible, due to high treble.
Well, that’s all. I have selected only headphones that don’t need an amplifier. Now is your turn to research, watch some Youtube videos, read some reviews, and give them a try.
All this headphones are GOOD. No trash here, and all them will make you open your eyes when listening your music if you are coming from standard headsets. You will notice sounds, instruments, that you never realized they were there, even if you had listened this song a thousand times before. Try them, and be amazed.
Welcome to the rabbit hole.
https://www.amazon.com/V-MODA-BoomPro-Microphone-Gaming-Communication/dp/B00BJ17WKK/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511122973&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=vmoda+boom&amp;dpID=41WfbQw%252Bp8L&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
I use this duster and it works just fine.
Source: Ran a custom PC building service/repair business for five years.
Just buy this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001J4ZOAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_TNFJzb6A1NCW2
It's a small electric powered air blower, with a dust filter on the bottom. I use it at work for hours every day, works like a charm.
I would recommend This clip mic paired with your choice of headphones.
Get the Logitech one.
Canned air is so wasteful. Get one of these guys
www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001J4ZOAW/
They're much more powerful as well, they make canned air look like a toy.
Get a Datavac.
http://www.amazon.de/Zalman-ZM-MIC1-Mikrofon-mit-Mikro-Clip-Schwarz/dp/B00029MTMQ
if you use this correctly, that mic is the shit while only having a price tag of ~$10
SanDisk Ultra 400GB for 78 usd on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-400GB-microSDXC-Memory-Adapter/dp/B074RNRM2B/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1551093049&sr=8-3&keywords=400gb+micro+sd+card
Here is a video that goes over current SD card specifications pretty well. I'll post what I got out of it and a little bit of additional research:
CAPACITY
There are three different types of SD cards that indicate a size range. SD cards are up to 2GB and are useless for our purposes. SDHC cards are from 4-32 GB and are ill-advised since 32GB isn't really enough. What we're interested in is SDXC cards which are from 64GB to 2TB. Each card has a micro version which is what we need. Capacity type doesn't have an impact on performance.
WRITE SPEED
There are two different families of speed classes that indicate a minimum write performance. The first, traditional speed class comes in Class 2, Class 4, Class 6, and Class 10. The number corresponds to their write speed, Class 2 is 2MB/s, class 10 is 10MB/s. This class is denoted by their number inside of a "C".
The other family of speed class is UHS. There are only two types, type 1 and type 3. These are denoted by their number inside of a "U" shaped symbol. UHS1 writes at 10MB/s, UHS3 writes at 30MB/s. That means the Class 10 and UHS1 have the same minimum write performance, but we're just going to look at UHS cards from now on. It is possible for a card to claim a UHS class speed, and a Class 10 speed.
Bus Interface
There are two different bus interfaces for UHS cards, UHS-I and UHS-II. These are denoted by roman numerals rather than our numbers. UHS-II cards have a second row of connection pins on the back of the card, while UHS-I just has the single row. UHS-II cards can transfer data faster than UHS-I cards when they are in a UHS-II compatible machine. If the machine is not UHS-II compatible then there is no benefit, however the UHS-II card will still work as it is backwards compatible. It does not look like the Nintendo Switch is UHS-III compatible, so there is no benefit to using a UHS-II card in it, which is a shame because the II interface can help read speeds tremendously.
So what is Nintendo recommending with OP's card? A microSDXC UHS3-I card. Meaning it is a micro version of a 64GB card, with the best write speed class, and the standard/worse Bus interface.
Nintendo-licensed Sandisk microSDXC 64GB UHS3-I for $19.99
Non licensed Sandisk microSDXC 64GB UHS3-I card for $23
/u/Nobody_is_lurking posted two contenders...
Sandisk microSDXC 64GB UHS1-I card for $14.25
Sandisk microSDXC 128GB UHS1-I card
for $23.25
...but it isn't actually an apples to apples comparison, as they are both UHS1 rather than UHS3. The $6 question is how big of a difference is there functionally between the two speed classes when actually being used by a Switch, which someone already took the time to test!
The results show that, when write speed was involved, the difference was significant, and that installed games can go by 3x faster using a UHS3 card. So sure, the UHS3 is a clear winner for installing, but what people really care about are load times, showed a less drastic story. Installing locally on the Switch beats any external storage options that we're looking at, then the UHS3 trailed shortly behind, with UHS1 following a little longer. For a regularly installed game the difference in load times doesn't seem to be more than a couple of seconds, even if the load time is a minute long. This guy also tested homebrew launched games though, which did show a much bigger difference between UHS1 and UHS3. So there is a difference in load time, but just not a massive one that many people would notice.
Looking at value, for whatever reason the Nintendo-licensed cards are currently cheaper than their equivalent nonlicensed cards, both the 64Gb and 128GB. Obviously the UHS-1 is cheaper than the UHS-3 across the board.
But if you want to branch away from Sandisk you can have the best of both worlds with a Samsung 64GB UHS3-I card for $15 The price per MB stays consistent at bigger sizes as well, so if you wanted a 128GB one it'd be $30.
tl;dr Buy this one. It is better and cheaper.
agreed. Unless you're on a tight budget. Amazon has larger for barely more and are U3 for better speeds.
https://www.amazon.com/V-MODA-BoomPro-Gaming-Headset-Headphone/dp/B00BJ17WKK
If you have headphones with a 3.5mm output that is the way to go.
Yes, you can go usb, and still use it after a couple of years. The quality is not prime, because one pays for prime.
Have a listen to an unfair comparison of $50 vs $1000.
TLDR: it's the room that does it. If you can pack yourself (and the mic) into something that absorbs the reflections, you will sound pretty good on something like the Blue Yeti. You can get cheaper mics too, or just used ones, but USB is a valid option to start on.
So what about that absorbing material? I made this, and it has done the job for quite some time.
Ask again if you have questions.
Best Cheap Mechanical Keyboards Under $50
Best Cheap Mechanical Keyboards Under $100
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The link are(non referral) to Amazon.com
Logitech G240 Cloth Gaming Mouse Pad for Low-DPI Gaming $14.99 ($19.99 - $5.00)Logitech G13 Programmable Gameboard with LCD Display $38.99 ($79.99 - $41.00)Logitech G400s Optical Gaming Mouse $31.99 ($59.99 - $28.00)Logitech G700s Rechargeable Gaming Mouse $49.99 ($99.99 - $50.00)Logitech G510s Gaming Keyboard with Game Panel LCD Screen $59.99 ($119.99 - $60.00)Logitech G35 7.1-Channel Surround Sound Headset $59.99 ($129.99 - $70.00)Logitech G710+ Mechanical Gaming Keyboard with Tactile High-Speed Keys - Black $94.00 ($149.99 - $55.00)Logitech G19s Gaming Keyboard with Color Game Panel Screen $99.99 ($199.99 - $100.00)edit: Are there any of these that I would have to be put to death for not ordering? :D I have this hole in my pocket you see...
edit2: swapped ending price and discount on G710+ - would have been a much better deal though...
edit3: prices are beginning to rise back to normal/sell out. Sad days.
edit4: Amazon is apparently going to try to get re-stocking done throughout the day to allow more purchases at the sale price. If it's out of stock when you look the first time, check again in a while. I'll try to keep this list up-to-date as best I can.
edit5: Even better, for me anyway. Looks as if if they are going to stop re-stocking the items, they are completely removing the item from the page I linked. If you see a strike-throughd item above, it WAS here, now it's gone Johnson. Again, will update as I can.
edit6: Nope. Bastards are re-adding items to the page... grumble grumble... :D
edit7: I decided to dig a little bit, and turns out, if you follow my links in this post rather than only relying on just the deal page itself, they are updated more frequently and accurately. So, use these links in conjunction to the thread title, and you may very well benefit! Still updating, sleepy times soon though... Maybe...
edit8: That's all, she wrote! Some of the items prices are retaining their sale value as of this last edit, so, maybe it'll be a new list price for them, who knows, but I am marking the sale as over, since the link is now officially pointed into oblivion.. Thanks for the wonderful day of sales and discussions, and for those of you who got some new equipment, congratulations! Hope you enjoy them!
This is exactly what I use: http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Keyboard-Multi-Touch-Touchpad/dp/B005DKZTMG/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1419200459&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=logitech+wireless+keyboard
Get one of these portable blowers.
An air tank small enough to be easily carried around the house will run out of air very quickly.
lil pricey, but worth it:
http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1409800808&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=metro+vacuum
I'm mainly echoing some things that other people have said but here's my two cents,
Can you use your thumb very well? You could consider investing in an MMO mouse like someone else suggested.
Also, if you have at least some use of your left hand to hit keys, like say, for example, you can hit 1, 2, and 3, but not 4, 5, and 6, you can consider getting one of those gaming foot pedals, and use the pedal as modifier keys so you can do say, like, 1 as a key by itself, left side of the pedal and 1, right side of the pedal and 1, and so on.
Another option which again, depends on your hands, is one of those ergonomic gamepads. You might find it easier to use one of these because of how the keys are spaced and curved inward than a traditional keyboard.
Again, I don't know your exact situation, but those are some recommendations as far as some hardware goes, which take varying degrees of monetary investment (but can be translated to other games, too!)
As far as your initial question involving Voiceattack, I don't know how Jagex's bot detection software works (obviously) but the general rule they put out is one input = 1 output, so if the program only does 1 thing per thing you tell it to do, like for example, if you tell it to use your 1 key, and it only presses that key once, then you should be good to go. However if it's set to hit 1, 2, and 3 in order when you only give it one command, then that's a no-go. But I personally would try to reach out to Jagex and get some sort of feedback from them first. That way if you somehow get banned or something, you're already out ahead of it and would probably have no issues getting your account back. Hypothetically speaking, though I'd think that this hypothetical is pretty out there anyway as long as the program is used within the one input = 1 output rule.
^ Also don't take my word to be gospel on this, I strongly strongly recommend getting official word from a Jagex rep before trying anything with any sort of program like that if you value your account
Good luck, and I wish you the best in your gaming endeavors
>Daher meine Frage an alle, die unterwegs viel Musik hören: Wie macht ihr das so?
200GB MicroSD, mit über 17000 Tracks ist da auch mehr als genug Auswahl geboten. Wenns noch mehr sein darf, kannst du dir ja ne 256GB-Karte holen, die sind aber im Vergleich zur 200GB-Variante relativ teuer.
Difference between this and this?
$30? This aint it.
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-MicroSD-Adapter-MB-ME128GA-AM/dp/B06XWZWYVP
You forgot:
$45 for a 128 GB.
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-MicroSD-Adapter-MB-ME128GA-AM/dp/B06XWZWYVP/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504275088&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=128gb+micro+sd
STOP BUYING CANNED AIR!! But something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW
I use mine on everything, especially the few large builds I keep for display. I also use it on the internals of my gaming rig. Had it for 2 years now and it still works great, definitely more cost effective than canned air in the long run.
Most likely they are sound whoring with headphones and attentiveness. When I play killer, sound is my greatest asset against the survivors. Things like running and breathing can be picked up by paying attention and having the sound system to do so.
I followed the advice on this post and got these headphones and this mic. Pretty cheap set up for quality audio and voice communication.
the EQing on your voice is way too bassy/muffled/boomy
also recording people off of VOIP is usually pretty bad. you'd have much better sound quality if you made everyone buy mics and record their own audio locally on either their computer or some kind of device and then send you their audio for you to splice in. the downside of this is it increases the chance of screwing up recording significantly if your friends aren't tech-savvy
https://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Zm-Mic1-Sensitivity-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B00029MTMQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499611093&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=zalman+clip+on+mic
Get yourself this and take it outside. This thing cleans like nanobots on it.
Upgrade to the wireless version. I have been using this version for a few years. Cannot go back to a normal mouse.
http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-910-001799-M570-Wireless-Trackball/dp/B0043T7FXE
To defend power buttons though, I have this keyboard for my living room TV's PC that kind of functions like a remote control. The power button on it is quite useful.
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Keyboard-Multi-Touch-Touchpad/dp/B005DKZTMG
This isn't directly related, but you can buy a Logitech webcam that will record video to your computer hard drive any time there is movement in the room. It might help you sleep easier at night. Just remember to disable the webcam light when it records. ;)
Hello hopefuls, lurkers, and alumni! Rather than give each video a critique I'm just going to list some tips that will help everyone in the long run. These tips do not apply to any single person in particular and every one of them can be used to improve a performance in some way shape or form, those who have a mastery in all of them tend to go far.
Overall these tips can and WILL help you in the long run, I wish you all the best and good luck!
Now with all that said I'm now going to reveal the 6 people I voted for in no particular order.
/u/BitchEva /u/mtd1988 /u/Kamui_Gr /u/itsbrohan and I don't know Sheba Maneater or Lady T's reddit names.
Now good luck, and don't fuck it up
Edit: SECRET TIP NUMBER 10! Carrion Threads - If you don't get in or didn't audition but want to still participate, make a video and post it in the Carrion Threads! These threads are named after April Carrion from Season 6 of RuPaul's Drag Race, after she was eliminated she would post the runway looks for each theme that she brought to the show on her social media. In the spirit of that you guys can follow along in them and they're great practice to really hone your skills for next year! Stick around and lip sync with us!
I got tired of losing flash drives and put a couple ssd's in external enclosures likes this
Here is one that my squad and I have zero issues with. Works like a charm.
Silicon Power 256GB SSD 3D NAND A55 SLC Cache Performance Boost SATA III 2.5" 7mm (0.28") Internal Solid State Drive (SP256GBSS3A55S25) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RJS55D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gs0SCbBVK5W2M
And here is the case
Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-Free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized for SSD, Support UASP SATA III] Black (EC-UASP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Cs0SCb5R6QZQ8
Be mindful of what accessories you personally need. People needs are different. The only global accessories that seem to be useful to everyone:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N3ASPNV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X97FLWF/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Charger-CHOETECH-Included-Nintendo-Supported/dp/B017I7EX46/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506098286&amp;sr=1-8&amp;keywords=switch+charger
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V62XBQQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Any other accessory should REALLY be considered on a need-to basis. Not everyone needs a pro controller (depending on the games you play, I've been fine without it with only BoTW, Mario Kart, Fate/Extella and Mario+Rabbids.), and not everyone needs an extra, improved stand/dock.
Finally, do some research on what games you will actually want to play. What I've seen is that games on the switch are NOT cheap, and unless you have extra disposable income, buying a game you don't really play can lower your overall appreciation of the system. Not only that, but because releases are sparse at the moment, it's easier to jump into the hype in order to keep using your shiny new hardware. Though that really applies to any console.
someone mention Amazon Price match this now Link
Grab one of these: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478567410&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb+sata+adapter
Of course make sure it's the right connector for your HDD. You will need USB 3 for that one to work too, since it needs more power than USB 2 can deliver.
And then boot up a linux machine and see if it's recognized. If Linux is no good, I've had luck with Mac as well, Windows seems a lot more finicky about whether it will take a shot at figuring out a broken harddrive or not.
Getting data off a drive this way works a lot more often than booting the device, since you're just trying to get raw data off of it rather than needing it to boot first then get data off of it.
> I know most will proberly hate me for gaming but someone out there should love music and gaming.
??
Plenty of us game. It's a big reason to dabble in high quality headphones when it strictly gives you an advantage over other players.
Anyways, I personally use a standalone desktop mic (Blue Yeti) although Discord buddies hate it because it's super sensitive and you can't really do much about it.
A boom mic works too but you'll have 2 wires and that could be annoying.
For convenience I just like the desktop mic. I have a Discord friend who has one too and it really isn't that bad, it's just when someone types you hear every key clack.
I recommend a DataVac. It's a bit pricey at around $50, but you'll never need to buy another can of compressed air again and it works SOOOO much better than they ever did.
If you use it at all frequently, buy an electric one. I have this from Amazon, I've seen it as cheap as $40.
It's 100x stronger than compressed air, and since it's effectively free to use, you can use it all around the house to help dust or otherwise clean things. 100/10 would recommend.
Electric duster. You save so much on buying air canisters in the long run. It's also very powerful
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001J4ZOAW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Just a note regarding sound quality: if you really care about it, even high-end gaming headsets are bad options compared to headphones by companies that specialize in audio, like Sennheiser (only brand I'd buy 'gaming' sets from), Audio Technica, AKG, Koss, Shure, Westone, Beyerdynamics, etc. For the same price, you can likely get way better quality by getting a mic-less headphone and attaching a ModMic or using a standalone mic.
Get the Klipsch Promedia 2.1 system. You can find it on sale for $100-$125 if you keep an eye out.
I had the 4.1 system before it got ruined in a flood, and got the newer 2.1 system a few months ago. Great clarity and monster bass for the size of the sub.
edit: no need for a soundcard. The mobo sound jack is more than capable, unless your system is from 8 years ago.
buy something like: http://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-ProMedia-Certified-Computer-Speaker/dp/B000062VUO
You can plug your ipod directly into it, you don't need any amplifiers or additional equipment to make it work.
It isn't the loudest most beautiful thing around, but it's not terrible and it does have bass.
Near exact card parameters but by Samsung $19.99
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XWZWYVP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_i6CVCbWDR6RNJ
I highly recommend anyone looking to do memory expansion for their Switch to not go with the particular version of the Sandisk Ultra microSD cards. You'll be better served getting either this Sandisk Ultra or the Samsung Evo that /u/Squidula linked to in his comment.
Both have 100mb/s Read/Write speeds versus this one's 48mb/s speed. Some games may lag or just not load at the lower speed and it's only going to be more and more of a requirement to have the 100mb/s speed in the future.
Drivers, get a dashcam.
Amazon currently has mine on sale for $35, plus $20 for a decently sized SD card.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C89GCHU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0bnlDbV135SXP
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XWZWYVP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jRnlDbGSDB8DT
If he doesn't have one already, a mechanical keyboard would be a great gift. They can be a bit pricey, but you can get one for ~100 dollars that is pretty decent; it'll making typing a much nicer experience. Specifically, I'd look for any keyboard which has "Cherry MX Brown" or "Cherry MX Blue" switches. The key switch determines how the keyboard feels, and how loud it is.
I have blues at home and browns for my keyboard at work and both options are solid. I prefer blues myself but they are loud, Browns feel similar but they don't have an audible click so they are much quieter.
Be wary of "like-mechanical" keyboard, that are basically just expensive membrane keyboard that try and mimic the mechanical feel.
Here are two pretty good options to get you started:
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Gaming-Mechanical-Keyboard-Backlit/dp/B01ER4B7YM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503434727&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=corsair+k70
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Mechanical-Keyboard-Tactile-High-Speed/dp/B009C98NPY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503434740&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=logitec+g710%2B
People keep telling me to purchase Philips SHP9500 when they go on sale for $50-$60 Currently $54.99
Then add V-MODA BoomPro Gaming, VoIP Headset Headphone with Mic for $30 and you're golden at about the same price range.
The downside is the mic is always in demand so they vary in whether they have it in stock.
If the air cushions aren't great you can follow this to make them better
Edit: Constructive criticism is more appreciative than down-votes alone
Best bang for your buck in headphones these days in my opinion.
Couple things to note:
Mac Mini (2018 model), named NOSTROMO
Mac Mini (2010 model), named SPUNKMEYER
MacBook Pro Retina 15” (2015 model), named SULACO
Mac Mini (2012 model), named FERRO
Mac Mini (2012 model), named AURIGA
Both the 2012 Minis and the 2010 Mini are completely headless. Unfortunately, this means that accessing them via remote desktop gives you a measly 800x600 resolution. I use this handy little gadget on both of them to replicate a 1920x1080 display being connected. So, when I connect via Screen Sharing I get a nice big display.
MacBook Pro (2018 model), named APLC02XV5W1JGH5
iPad Pro 10.5", named APONE
iPhone X, named RIPLEY
LG Blu-Ray reader/writer in connected to NOSTROMO via USB 3.0, used for ripping Blu-Rays and DVDs
Sabrent USB 3.0 Dual-Bay Hard Drive Dock, also connected to NOSTROMO via USB 3.0
The microphone is a Yeti Blue with a Nady Pop Filter, coupled with a Logitech HD C310, used for Google Hangouts and FaceTime calls with the fam, and the occasional podcast. It is mounted on a RODE PSA1 Swivel Mount Studio Microphone Boom Arm and a RADIUS II Microphone Shock Mount.
The mousepad is an XTracPads Ripper XXL mousepad
The chair is a Raynor Ergohuman ME7ERG desk chair
I use Dropbox to expertly keep my content in sync. Due to the amount of content I keep in there, it is well worth the $100 per year for a Dropbox Pro subscription.
Additionally throughout the house, I have...
3 Eeros for my Mesh Wireless Network WiFi System
2 Apple TVs (4K), named ASH and CALL
1 Apple TV (4th Generation), named BISHOP
1 Apple HomePod, named DIETRICH
1 Nest Hello Video Doorbell, named HELLO
1 Nest Learning Thermostat, named NEST (yeah, original af, I know)
2 WyzeCam Pans, named WYZE-Kitchen and WYZE-LivingRoom
4 WeMo Smart Plugs, named WEMO-Foyer, WEMO-SpareBedroom, WEMO-MasterBedroom, and WEMO-LivingRoom
1 Amazon Echo Plus, named ECHO-LivingRoom
2 Amazon Echoes (First-Generation), named ECHO-MasterBedroom and ECHO-Kitchen
2 Amazon Echo Dots, named DOT-Office, and DOT-SpareBedroom
4 Google Home Minis
1 Brother HL-L2395DW Wireless Laser Printer, named LV426
1 PlayStation 3 Slim 120 GB, named HICKS
I have a total of 31 IP reservations according to my Eero app. This makes it a lot easier to manage my network, set up port forwarding, etc.
Price Match with Fry's.
BestBuy Link
Talk to CS and ask em if they can. It's a long shot since they are sold out but would be nice
Model: 960-000764
SKU: 4612476
Route 2: go here (Amazon)
Ctrl+F "Lower price" and shoot em the link and they might match it.
Price dropped from $50 to $40 on Amazon, Neat.
The last time they had this, most of the products sold out within hours. Here are some of the best deals:
Logitech G602 Wireless Gaming Mouse with 250 Hour Battery Life $44.99: Amazing mouse with a battery that never dies, I own one and would not go back to wired ever again.
Logitech G510s Gaming Keyboard $59.99: A feature non-mechanical keyboard for someone more interested in looks, and their display system. Also has different colored RGB backlighting, something that is just now coming to mechanical keyboards.
Logitech Gamepad F310 $12.50: A great wired gamepad, makes any racing or indy game feel much better.
Logitech Wireless Gaming Headset G930 with 7.1 Surround Sound $69.99: Wireless with 7.1, looks great, and has a lot of positive reviews. Costs as much on sale as the G430 is full price.
Logitech Wireless All-In-One Keyboard TK820 with Built-In Touchpad $49.99: One of their new products, makes for couch browsing a lot easier.
Obviously these are not $160 headphones, more around $75-$85.
I've heard fantastic reviews about these, and you can even attach a V-Moda boom pro mic.
These are open backed so the sound will leak, so use them in a quiet environment. Open backed essentially just means they have more sound stage vs closed back, and sometimes less bass. These are not tight fit headphones at all either - in fact they slide around too much if you move your head too much.
I wholly recommend these- some of the best budget cans for $60. I don't own them, but this is a cumulative review from many redditors and reviews.
If you're gonna go mechanical the sweet spot is 120 I'd say. You won't get anything good for under 80.
http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Mechanical-Keyboard-Tactile-High-Speed/dp/B009C98NPY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417273074&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=710%2B
this is pretty good, brown switches and 90 dollars, right now.
Non-mobile link: https://www.amazon.ca/V-MODA-BoomPro-Gaming-Headset-Headphone/dp/B00BJ17WKK/
I have a mic, it works, but for some reason squad refuses to pick it up. Anyone have a fix for this? Squad is the only game that it doesn't work in.
EDIT: Turns out my mic was set to USB in steam, just had to change it. Thanks for all the reply's and willingness to help. The mic i use is this good quality mic, but the cord is insanely long.
Honestly, the best thing you can do is regularly clean the area and room you keep your rig in. The time between having to go in and clean the insides of your PC increases a lot.
Other than that I usually go in with an electronic duster instead of cans of compressed air.
Debating picking up the Logitech pad for gaming and parametric modeling. Anyone know if it's worth getting?
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-G13-Programmable-Gameboard-Display/dp/B001NEK2GE/ref=lp_16352389011_1_9?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1502721197&amp;sr=1-9
Actually I'm kind of nervous about it now. It's not reviewed too highly, most reviews note about keys dying after 2 months. I'll have to keep an eye on the mfg warranty. Oh well $35 is $35.
Another contender...
I have one and am pleased with it for a cheap solution. I clip it onto my shirt using a binder clip.
Do not buy a headset.
Buy a microphone like [this here] (http://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Zm-Mic1-Sensitivity-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B00029MTMQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1374138699&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Zalman+ZM-MIC1+Microphone) and get some decent headphones from Sennheiser (dependant on budget).
You get a lot more quality for your money this way.
It's a bit out of your price range, but it works well.
http://www.amazon.ca/Metropolitan-Vacum-ED500-Datavac-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW
It's cheaper from US amazon...dunno about shipping or what not though.
http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW
https://www.amazon.com/V-MODA-BoomPro-Gaming-Headset-Headphone/dp/B00BJ17WKK
Magicforce 68
also 400GB version (was posted at $78 earlier) just went down to $62.30 as well
kinda hard to choose between them now
5 hours left for a Amazon sale, 400Gb microSD card for just 99USD
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074RNRM2B/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Yeah, Amazon.
If for whatever reason you cant purchase new from a retailer, try /r/hardwareswap.
Today and tomorrow on Amazon, if you have Amazon Prime, are the Prime Day deals.
You can get a name brand 400gb sd card for $45.
Example - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074RNRM2B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_78jlDb61YP2FZ
I have a windowed case so I clean out my computer whenever I start seeing dust inside my computer which is about once a month. It's easiest to clean out my case using some form of compressed air to blow all the dust out. I personally use the DataVac as my form of compressed air and would recommend it to anyone that is currently using compressed air cans. The DataVac would be paying for itself after a couple of uses.
http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1420416560&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=data+vac
I've got that same one and can confirm it's excellent. Here's a much better price for it though (in the US, at least):
http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449761796&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=metro+datavac
I have a few farms I run including my own and I have these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001J4ZOAW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
EDIT to add:
PLEASE make sure to shut down your rigs before you use it or you might damage a fan.
Or stop wasting your money on canned air, and get one of these bad boys.
I have the Logitech G13. It may be more expensive than this, but with the amount of extra keys + LCD display, I feel like it would be much more worth it than this. The G13 doesn't have mechanical keys, but they still preform exceptionally well. The LCD display may sound like a stupid little add-on, but it does come in handy. It comes with a few standard apps that include: Clock, Timer, RSS, POP3 Email Viewer, and performance monitor, and Media. Not to mention the ability to make your own applets.
Oh, and if you have Fraps, you will find that the G13 will have a Fraps applet pop up. It displays the current FPS for any Fraps compatible game.
At the time I bought it, the Logitech G13 was only $70. I programmed all sorts of macros that would either run full CLI commands or fill all but the last couple of digits/arguments (like 'ping 10.20.128.'). I became the Fastest nslookuper in the West with that thing. It was also cool to have hotkeys to launch apps.
Well I see how it's convenient with an integrated mic, but a very standard desktop/clip on mic will do the job a heck of a load cheaper, and you can spend the excess money on better headphones or an audio card. Also. Less parts that can be broken on the rift.
Edit: actually I take that back. If it's an integrated mic with no sensitive parts (the bar that carries the mic) and if it would be more like a cellphone mic I would be OK with it. Although the voice quality might not be the best this way.
My shop has one of those datavac units sitting on a shelf. It is worthless and has zero actual suction.
I understand your reluctance on the subject of blowers, I was right there with you a couple years back, but this is the way to go. Of course, you do have to take it outside.
It's an oldie but a goody. Logitech C920
I think it's pretty decent, records in 1080p, can use for streaming and web calls. Has a pretty decent focus ability.
But again, it's an older model, maybe there's better new versions?
I paid $160 for mine (has since dropped in price) Logitech G710+. Gamers pay money for good stuff.
Y'all should watch this video if you're on the fence about buying this headset. I'm no audiophile, but I agree that they're the best headphones I've ever used. The guy in this video, however, is in fact an audiophile and is in love with them: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aipXii-qWiQ
Also, if you're looking to use these for gaming and don't have a standalone mic, this VMODA BoomPro mic is the common recommendation. I use it daily and have no real complaints.
I didn't find it condescending at all. I found it helpful. I learned about which USB-c cable to buy from the comments. Thanks. Looking into memory cards now.
Edit. I ended up buying this one. SanDisk Ultra 200GB Micro SD (SDSDQUAN-200G-G4A) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V62XBQQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WqgRybN7CZK0A
Honestly I got the 200gb Sandisk here. It's probably the best value since the 256 is WAY more money. Anything more than this is a waste of cash IMO unless it's indeed true that the Switch's SD card reader can read/write blazing fast- even then, I can't justify any more cost than this.
First of all: Screen Protector. Once it's on you never notice it, doesn't hurt to get that extra safety!
I've bought 10 games so far, and I'd say get all of these because I have enjoyed them. BOTW, Splatoon 2, Sonic Mania, Rayman Legends, Dragon Ball Xenoverse 2 (assuming you like DBZ,) Mario Kart 8 Deluxe, Pokken Tournament DX, Street Fighter 2 Ultra, Mario + Rabbids Kingdom Battle, and Yooka Laylee.
If I had to pick 3 for you to get to start out then I would pick Breath of the Wild, Splatoon 2, and Mario Kart 8 Deluxe. I think that's enough variety to keep you busy for awhile.
A carrying is always a good thing, I'd recommend This case because it's the one I use and does its job.
Accessory wise I have joycon grips which are AMAZING when playing with one joycon.
Also, the grip it comes with is trash. Get the Power A Grip it feels A LOT better in your hands.
As for SD Cards, it depends. I have a 32GB SD card. I mainly buy physical games, The extra space is for screenshots and videos, and download only games, like Sonic Mania, Yooka Laylee, etc. If you're going for digital only then get a 256GB. Sure you won't use a ton of space now, but you might a few years down the line. Also, do NOT get the official Nintendo ones. They are a RIP-OFF! Here are some nice alternatives that will get the job done for A LOT cheaper: 32 GB 64 GB 128 GB and finally 256 GB
If you have any other questions feel free to ask OP, and other (potential) switch owners!
Quick edit: sorry that some links won't be put with the text, no idea what the issue is
Here are my suggestions.
Mice:
Keyboards:
I'll admit these are mostly from my perspective from the US, so I'm not sure how to check UK prices. I would imagine that since these are large brands, most of the pricing would be consistent.
For people here after OP stops giving advice / wants to look themselves:
/r/headphones. Don't post a thread asking for purchase advice, it pisses them off. Go to this dedicated thread instead, or use their purchase advice tool here
Turning studio headphones into gaming headphones is as simple as buying a Modmic or a V-Moda BoomPro. The main difference is that the Modmic is a separate cable where the BoomPro is part of your normal 3.5" cable. If your headphones have a detachable 3.5" cable, I'd recommend the BoomPro
Some people on the sub will recommend DACs / Amps. If you're not an audiophile, ignore them. Amps are sometimes needed for high impedance headphones, but for the most part they're a waste of money. Your mobo's onboard DAC works fine.
Pick up a VMODA boom mic and BOOM you have a $88 headset that will put most gaming headsets to shame.
If it's the MacBook Pro 2012 13" non retina then you may be experiencing the extremely common hard drive cable failure as described here https://beetstech.com/blog/prevent-a1278-mid-2012-hard-drive-cable-failure.
If you happen to have a USB to SATA caddy/connector then you can plug your SSD into your Mac via USB, if it boots then that pretty much proves a hard drive cable issue.
&#x200B;
You can buy the hard drive cable from Beetstech with a lifetime warranty https://beetstech.com/product/hard-drive-cable-923-0104.
You're looking for
this adapterthis adapter.Edit: The hard drive is probably formatted as NTFS. If that's the case, then basically, all you can do on it is copy things from it to your Mac (which is what you said you wanted to do, so you should be fine). You can't actually change anything on the hard drive unless you get some software to fix it (you can also fix it yourself; I'll link you to a tutorial for that if you run into the issue). If the hard drive is formatted as FAT32 or exFAT, then you shouldn't run into any problems.
Not sure what conflicting answers you speak of.
Any modern/new SSD of 256GB or more will suffice. Whether that's an internal or external is up to you. An internal will need an adapter that transfers it's connection to USB 3.
Name brands MAY last longer than a cheap off brand, but the data in test results doesn't really support that. I use an external Samsung T5 but only because I got it for a birthday present. Most of my friends have Amazon specials that cost far less and so far have given the same results in PUBG.
Recommended:
https://www.amazon.com/Silicon-Power-Performance-Internal-SP256GBSS3A55S25/dp/B075RJS55D/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=ssd+256gb&amp;qid=1558678862&amp;s=pc&amp;sprefix=ssd+256&amp;sr=1-3
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=pd_aw_fbt_147_img_3/139-8676850-0599245?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00OJ3UJ2S&amp;pd_rd_r=2d362e9e-7dec-11e9-8740-41568e48106d&amp;pd_rd_w=YUiIL&amp;pd_rd_wg=4ofBA&amp;pf_rd_p=3ecc74bd-d08f-44bd-96f3-d0c2b89f563a&amp;pf_rd_r=PYHDBFYYVZTD6HQWT0GG&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=PYHDBFYYVZTD6HQWT0GG
I bought this SSD for just over $30 Silicon Power 256GB SSD 3D NAND... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RJS55D?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
And then this case all for under $50 Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Totally worth it in my opinion. Buildings and weapons are loaded in when I drop on all of the maps :)
You could take off the plastic case and use something like this: StarTech.com SATA to USB Cable - USB 3.0 to 2.5" SATA III Hard Drive Adapter - External Converter for SSD/HDD Data Transfer (USB3S2SAT3CB) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_zMPYDbY41HJJ5
The Moto Z costs 699.99. Let us assume the mod is 40 bucks. 739.98. I need to play four player multiplayer. 739.98 4 = 2959.92
Seems pretty reasonable. For the Switch, I'll need eight pro controllers, (These TINY and UNUSABLE Joy-Cons (What were they thinking with that name?) are not enough) so 69.99 8 + 299.99 = 859.91. Next, we need 7 more sets of Joycons, plus charging grips. (The layout of those Pro Controllers is awful. No analog triggers in 2017?) 859.91 + (109.98 7) = 1629.77. Okay, let's throw in 10 docks (How am I supposed to get the console experience without one in every square foot of my home?). 1629.77 + (89.99 10) = 2529.67. Okay, so next we're going to need a LOAD of battery packs. Here's a 20,000 mAh pack (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Pocket-Juice-20000-mAh/183293926) that might (This is Nintendo!) work. 34.88 10 + 2529.67 = 2878.47. Oops, we forgot a microSD! 200 GB (Too small! We'll need four. https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-200GB-Micro-SDSDQUAN-200G-G4A/dp/B00V62XBQQ/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00V62XBQQ&amp;pd_rd_r=YD4130B9T4VM4YRJHRSS&amp;pd_rd_w=6v0nI&amp;pd_rd_wg=IzihV&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=YD4130B9T4VM4YRJHRSS) for 89.95. 89.95 4 + 2878.47 = 3238.39. Outrageous! Fake news! Sad! This costs more, and doesn't even have a SIM card slot. Well, I guess Nintendo will soon be pulling out of the market! Good riddance! 1/10 CNET
You can also get this one but I would recommend spending the few extra bucks on the other one
I recommend exactly: SanDisk Ultra 128GB microSDXC UHS-I
(SDSQUNC-128G-GN6MA)
I own 3 of them and all have been working perfectly, started getting digital games since the Switch launch day on which currently I own well over 100+ Switch games.
Don't get the Nintendo branded SanDisk its extremely overpriced and its basically about the same one I suggested you.
You can get a cheap usb condenser mic. Not ideal over a more expensive xlr mic setup (watch the video I linked at the end, it explains a lot there), but for just gaming it's better than pretty much any headset. If you don't have room on the desk, there's the Antlion Modmic. Overpriced for the sound quality imo, but it should still be better than most headsets. I'm not sure if the a40s have a detachable cable, but if they do you can also get the V-moda boompro. I've used mine for a few years before upgrading to the ATR2500, and it sounds almost as good as the standalone mic and I like the sound signature much more than the Antlion. The only downside being some hiss that the condenser doesn't have, and it needs power from one of the channels for the mic to work, so you need to adjust the center for the headphones. Ideally if you're just using voice chat in games and in programs like Teamspeak, Discord, Mumble or whatever, the most you should be spending is around $50.
Here's a video if you wanna take the plunge and get something more professional for voice overs some time in the future.
$30 for an Ethernet cable
$70 32GB MIcroSD Card?
I can get a 200GB one for a little bit less!
I use this computer 'vacuum'. It blows all the dirt/dust/etc out of the PC. You'll never have to buy compressed air ever again. It's really loud and sounds like a vacuum, but it's really just an air blower/pusher/mover.
Just ordered this one. Is this what you are talking about?
http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW/ Not an air compressor, but a lot more portable for $49. I love it.
For the price, these speakers are GREAT. I used to own these for YEARS, but I upgraded to a Klispch Promedia 2.1 last year, which are amazing btw.
DD DOES NOT MATTER, ALL YOU NEED IS STEREO You're better off with this:
Edit: use [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Xbox-360-PC-Headset-Adapter-PC35-Xbox360/dp/B0035AMM76)
Nope. Any device with an inductive load can cause severe electro-static discharge (ESD) across the computer. This is why things like the Data-Vac exist. Stick to compressed air if you're unsure if your vacuum is ESD-safe.
EDIT: In a pinch, last resort sort of thing, use the longest plastic hose attachment for our vacuum. The goal being to isolate the computer from any conductive contact with the vacuum as much as possible.
I always try to link - https://www.amazon.com/Metro-ED500-DataVac-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479510803&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=datavac
Because I've had one for 3-4 years, and It's completely paid for itself by now.
My issue is you could get a simple quick pad with an analog stick for significantly cheaper. While the design is cool.....There are all already better and cheaper methods.
Honestly, any headphone marketed as "gaming" will be a rip-off, and pretty much every Xbox 360 headset is crap compared to headphones designed for music listening and production.
You'll get a better deal if you get one of the generic adapter plugs that let you use any headphone and microphone combo with the Xbox. Then get this microphone and a good pair of headphones or IEMs. Here are some threads on head-fi to help you select a pair:
http://www.head-fi.org/a/buying-guide-headphones-by-price-range
http://www.head-fi.org/t/433318/shootout-96-portable-headphones-reviewed-v-moda-m-80-added-11-27-11
http://www.head-fi.org/t/478568/multi-iem-review-208-iems-compared-clear-tune-monitors-ctm-200-added-12-10-11
While people are recommending headsets that come with the mic. I'm going to recommend something else. Get a high quality set of over the ear headphones. I'm talking something like the Audio Technica ATH-M50S, Audio Technica ATH-AD700, Sennheiser HD555/595 (The 595's are very similar to the 555's but sound better, there are links around that you can mod your 555's to become 595's), or Sennheiser HD380 Pro. And then attach a Zalman Mic to it.
I have a pair of HD595's and absolutely love them, I can wear them all day and not feel it. They are built like tanks and have amazing sound quality. With my Zalman mic, I not only have a headset that has much higher sound quality than any gaming headset, but I can also use it for VOIP.
I used to have a pair of Creative Fatal1ty MKii, but after picking up my Sennheiser's I can't go back to them. The comfort and sound quality is literally night and day.
Although slightly out of your price range, the two companies make extremely high quality audio equipment. If you look through their offerings you'll definitely find a pair of headphones that will fit your budget. If you watch Amazon you can find that they cut prices dramatically from time to time, I picked up my 595's for around $150, and now they're almost $250.
Sandisk Ultra 128GB Micro SDXC UHS-I Card with Adapter - 100MB/s U1 A1 - SDSQUAR-128G-GN6MA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JYC4XM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_s.dNBbY708CJ1
Samsung 128GB 100MB/s (U3) MicroSD EVO Select Memory Card with Adapter (MB-ME128GA/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XWZWYVP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_..dNBbQ9AWBT5
Same price on Amazon today and comes with an adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074RNRM2B/
and now you could fit his entire brain on a microsd with room to spare
https://www.amazon.co.uk/SanDisk-microSDXC-Memory-Adapter-Performance/dp/B074RNRM2B
You can go crazy! Universal gifts:
512GB McroSD card: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07H1231S8
400GB MicroSD card: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B074RNRM2B
USB Hub: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B077FSBGQK
Pendrive: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B074PQWHZ3
Cool pendrive: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07LCBH5QK
Mouse: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07928J5VH
Headphones: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B073VF7FY7
Charger: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B078GMRBZZ
If he's a smoker: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07DVM9FQB
Stickers: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B06XZYCT6X
Cool keychain: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00LA46QCG
Pocket projector: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01MU8VC5J
Ofertas previas al viernes afro:
De nada...
Or you paid the same as normal price on Amazon
That was a mic I looked at but it seems like they're heavily backordered and a $40 price tag is fairly high.
I ended up getting this mic and I'm satisfied with the audio quality.
Only thing is I have to go mount it on my HD598s because there's no 3.5mm port on the side and I haven't had time to do that yet.
Just wanted to share another perspective for any potential buyers.
logitech G930
I feel like for the extra $10 it'd be worth it to go through Amazon Canada for the prime shipping and not having to deal with exchange rates.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B006JH8T3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KasSAb5TA9D8B
If it breaks and you bought it through Amazon UK, will Amazon Canada deal with any returns?
If you're going to continue making these, which I think you should, you should absolutely invest in a better microphone and learn some sound editing. Take a look at how to do Dynamics Compression and other sound editing tips. You'd be surprised at how much that can improve the overall quality of your videos. You can find really good professional mics for under $150, my recommendation is the Yeti Blue, which they sell pretty much everywhere.
Watch some more "In Under _ Minutes" videos on YouTube, and you'll find they're talking much faster than you. Break up each line and do it as fast and as clear as you can, and pick the best ones and create a Frankenstein's monster mash up of the best takes. Since it's just audio, it won't be jarring as if it were video.
I would also add in something at the end where you recommend to the viewer to check out a specific match/matches, tell us his highest rated Meltzer match/matches or maybe even a personal favorite.
Thumbnails are also key. I know you're a new channel and they won't let you upload your own until you're verified, but that will help you out a lot. Make sure you're consistent with them and your video titles.
Other than that, very cool video and great concept! If you ever need help with them, let me know!
Yep, I'm a truck driver, I use the Logitech Wireless Trackball M570 for my laptop on the road.
you said he uses a TV as his monitor, does that mean that he's sitting on a couch or bed when he's using the computer? If so, Logitech has a keyboard with a laptop style touchpad on one side, the k400, and it's only like $30. As with every other Logitech product I have used, the quality is fantastic. In my case, I only really use the computer attached to my TV as a media player, and some light internet browsing, so having a regular mouse was unnecessary, and kind of cumbersome given the situation.
Might I suggest getting her a trackball instead? They are very handy, work as good as a mouse, but allow for a different experience, especially for those of us who have trouble with using a mouse. Variations here and here give you an idea of the choices available in form, like specialized keyboards.
Also, they may be coming out with a flip version of a smartphone (Samsung, I believe?) in the near future. Is your mom a Star Trek:TOS fan, by chance?
Also, you might try buying her a cheap tablet, and loading a few games into it, to get her used to using the form factor. (Hey, that's why Microsoft invented Minesweeper and Solitaire, so it's not as dumb an idea as it sounds... and not mine - obviously. "Good minds invent, GREAT minds steal. " heh )
Hey, it's cool that you shared the sale, but the
tag=paktinatcom-20part of the link looks a lot like an affiliate link.I don't know what this sub's rules are on those and whether you copy/pasted that on purpose or on accident, but here are two non-affiliate links (and a lot shorter!)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0043T7FXE
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0043T7FXE <-- if you want a portion of the sale to go to a charity of your choosing
In any case it looks like the sale is over with, so probably doesn't matter anyways.
Not Bluetooth, but I like this one; it uses their unifying receiver.
Somewhere in my post history I wrote a bit more about it in a comment to another thread; plus, others offered their input.
>So I can use this to stream videos from my PC to the TV?
Yes!
You just either need a controller or keyboard+mouse for the Link OR start the videos from the other room, from your PC
Actually I use a bluetooth keyboard with touchpad for the Link
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Keyboard-Multi-Touch-Touchpad/dp/B005DKZTMG
I've tried 3 different compact combos, and they all have some sort of problem. Reception, non-standard keys, missing function keys... etc. In the end I just went with a full size one from Logitech for over a year now, and have absolutely no problem. Good signal strength, familiar full size keyboard, multitouch touchpad, awesome battery life, it just can get better at this price range.
http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Keyboard-Multi-Touch-920-003070/dp/B005DKZTMG
Currently $90 new on Amazon.ca w/ free shipping. Which coincidentally I just received today. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B009C98NPY/
High School English (none of these are English specific)
This is room dependent as some schools have them, but one key thing that I haven't seen mentioned yet (apologies if I missed it) is a clock. Specifically get an atomic clock that has a highly visible seconds display. I just bought this one by Marathon refurbished. It makes a great deal of difference knowing whether there are 3 seconds or 30 seconds until the bell in my experience.
Another thing I highly recommend is this wireless trackball mouse. It makes a great presentation tool. You can do more with it than a clicker. You can just hold it on your leg if you need to use the mouse function while standing.
Also, get yourself some speakers that sound decent and have a) an easy way switch to headphones b) easily accessible volume control. Headphones are essential because you will undoubtedly be on your prep while the classroom next door decides to mutiny. The external volume control is much easier than having to click around on the computer (you could get a keyboard that has those features). These speakers are reasonably priced and have served me well. Bonus points if you can find an easy way to include bluetooth in the set up (I'm trying to figure out how to do that as my new school blocks spotify). If anyone has any ideas for me, I would appreciate it.
I'm a terribly unorganized person, but for me color coded folders helped me keep things a little more organized. Find durable plastic folders and assign a color for each different period. When you collect an assignment, it goes into the proper folder
Anyone got any interesting setups/tv's? Idk why i'm writing this but here are the things I bring to tourneys.
Album link
My Tv Is by far the most eye catching thing. I bought 350 Fortune cookies and have been just taping them on there whenever I finish one. I am pretty much out of them so I have quite a bit all over the TV. The air fresheners were to bring some nice smells to any tournament I went to.
Standard Gamecube: 1.02 melee with newest 20xx TE and vanilla melee memory cards. This is the video cable IOnebring. It has s video + regular composite so I don't have to bring a powered splitter. Explaining more below.
Recording/Streaming setup: This consists of a Webcam which also records player/crowd audio (also a 16 ft extension). An Elgato with 16ft extension. Then I have 2 non-powered composite splitters. I plug in the composite video from the game cube directly into my TV and the S video into the elgato. The result isn't actually too bad (if someone knows how to deinterlace for better video hmu).
The last thing is My Controller: Someone on etsy painted it for me right before big house and so far it's a great purchase. It is of a Palestinian flag and has my tag on it. it doesn't feel any different from any other game cube controller which is great.
Edit: forgot about my headphone setup. I have sennheiser Momentums I bring with my headphone amp and plug that into the tv's audio with one of These. This has a pass through meaning other people can listen through the TV and I can adjust the volume with my amp. I also bring another headphone splitter so people can listen with their headphones.
My roomy used to cam on her crappy little $400 laptop and it worked out pretty well. Cameras in this price range are going to be roughly the same. Still need a ton of light on you, still going to be a little grainy, etc. But they work.
Getting a quality external USB cam would be the way to go if you want something really clear.
And the ASUS Q501LA would be a very well rounded laptop in your price range, with a high end 1080p IPS touch display, backlit keyboard, 8GB RAM, i5-4200U, etc.
the zalman zm-mic1 will be perfect for your needs. it clips on to the cable of your current headphones, and has clips all along the microphone cable so you don't have a messy tangle of wires. i use it all the time when playing bc2 and killing floor, works perfectly. best $5 i've spent on a mic ever.
Definitely look into a Headphone + Attachable Mic Combo
I recommend the JVC HARX900's With a Zalman mic that you can clip on the headphones
If you do end up pushing your budget, I don't really recommend the G35's like the other guy (No offense, really) I do on the other hand recommend the Audio Technica AD-700's, if you get these for gaming they will last you a lifetime, they are built very well too, I love Audio-Technica for that
TL;DR I ended up using this lavalier microphone, with the TASCAM DR-05 recorder, putting my equipment total cost at $110.
I conducted some sociolinguistic fieldwork over the summer and I researched fairly extensively to find something within my budget but with the technical specifications I required. I took extensive notes on my thought process, so here's a summary.
So, getting a bit techy here, you're going to need a microphone and a recorder. Those are two separate pieces of equipment. The microphone is what captures the sound and turns it into an electronic current, and the recorder is what turns that current into something the computer understands. Some recorders have a built-in microphone, but you don't want to use that for phonetic studies, so you'll have to get separate pieces. Also, if you have any technical requirements (Hz requirements, for example), both the recorder and the microphone will need to be able to handle that. So you'll need a good one of each.
Even though I already have a decent microphone (the popular Blue Yeti), I felt like I needed something different for several reasons. The Yeti requires a power source: it's meant to be plugged into a computer. But I didn't like that setup. Not only would it be a bit intimidating (not to mention the microphone itself is intimidating), but it's bad acoustically since the noise from my computer would surely get captured. The Yeti ideally also should be about a foot from the speaker's mouth, which, again, makes people a bit nervous. If I move it further, I could turn the sensitivity up, but it would capture ambient noise (fans, AC, fridge, etc.). I considered a setup that didn't involve my computer, but that requires a different power source and special equipment, and that's a pain (and it's expensive).
I also considered just using my iPhone as a recorder, and buying a microphone specifically designed to work with it (they exist). The quality is decent enough for most people, but not for phoneticians. Also, they are not compatible with any other piece of equipment. Either they plug into the lightning connector or the headphone jack, but the 3.5mm headphone thingie has 3 stripes instead of 2, making it incompatible as a microphone with any other recorder (that's all I know on that topic).
I decided the TASCAM DR-05 was the best recorder for my purposes. They have bigger and better ones (like the DR-22WL or the DR-40), but they were too much for me: I didn't need to record multiple tracks simultaneously, or a huge memory, or a separate iPhone app, or a guitar tuner or anything. A very similar family of recorders is the Zoom family, and the Zoom H1 is comparable to the TASCAM DR-05 and is also a very popular. I ended up turning to youtube and found this video as well as this comparison chart. It's a bit long-winded and technical, but it did help me decide on the one I wanted.
The next task was to find a microphone. I decided a lavalier would be the most unobtrusive. There are tons of cheap microphones on Amazon, but you need to look carefully at the technical specs to make sure they aren't garbage. Tip: if they don't list the technical specs, it's probably not what you want. The best video I found for comparing the lavalier mics was this one.
I'm pretty satisfied with the recording quality. I found that the microphone caught the speech pretty well while blocking out background noise. I recorded a mono track at 48kHz and 20-bits instead of the standard 44.1kHz and 16-bit. Turned out to be about a gigabyte per hour of speech. As I'm going through these though, I realize they're a bit quiet, probably because I turned the sensitivity down in an attempt to filter out background noise. Also, I noticed people would fiddle with the wire while talking, though I haven't noticed this affecting the recorder yet. It did pick up noises if people scratched their shirt near the microphone or if they had a long beard.
I will say that I brought my Yeti as a backup, and ended up using it twice. Luckily it was a very quiet room we were in, and the quality was superior than my other setup. But, the speech was a bit stilted and people were a bit more formal with me as we sat at a table with a giant microphone sitting between us. So if you're interested in a conversational speaking style, a big set up wouldn't work.
My project mostly dealt with generally-lower-middle class white folks in the US, and I'm not particularly interested in super fine-tuned phonetic information. So the setup I had was sufficient for my project, though laboratory phonologists would probably want something better quality.
I would say to do some research on technical specifications of this equipment and decide on what you absolutely need. This will depend on your research question and the field site. If you're going to be in the middle of the jungle, you'll need something to really block out background noise. If you're sitting middle-class homes, you don't need that as much. If you want discourse and conversational data, you'll want a recorder that can handle multiple tracks simultaneously so you'll need either one fancy recorders or two separate ones. Then look at the equipment available on the market, set a budget, and find out what you can get. Just don't skimp on anything because you'll regret it later.
The end. Hope that helps.
If you have the money, I'd suggest investing in a Blue Yeti or a similar condenser microphone, or one specifically tailored for podcasting. The audio quality isn't terrible, but given this already very-well edited video, the audio quality should match the video quality.
Datavac and never look back!
Standard version: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001J4ZOAW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
ESD version: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00U01YVYK/ref=psdc_3012916011_t2_B001J4ZOAW
We have a little blower at work that we call the mini leaf blower, it's the most awesome thing ever.
http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459197169&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=electronics+duster
So this is a good question. For my movement and abilities, I use this:
Logitech G13
My mouse is a Razer Naga Epic.
Both were basically intended to play WoW.
I'm left handed. I used to use my left hand for mouse and right hand for movement (using the numpad). I've been a console guy for the last 10 years or so, but when my son started playing PC games, I switched to right hand so we didn't have to mess with the bindings as often. It was WoW, so it wasn't a big deal. It's been a little more tricky in OW, but not so much that I've considered switching back to lefty.
Anyway, you are correct that I'm using a stick for my movement, but I'm using a mouse for aiming. It's set at 1600 dpi and 3.1 in-game sensitivity. There's no acceleration enabled and the windows setting is at 6. It gets me a 360 in about 25.5 cm which is about the width of my mousepad. I actually lowered the sensitivity in the last week to try and increase my overall accuracy. I think you are probably correct that I don't have much "snap" but part of that is that I have been consciously trying to avoid the sporadic, jerky movements I was getting at higher sensitivities.
My intent was to work on accuracy with the lower sensitivity and then increase it as time passed to allow more rapid target acquisition. Think I should try something else?
Samson SR850s + Zalman Mic. The samsons are amazing and blow every other headset I've heard out of the water. They are the same headphones as the Superlux 668Bs, so perhaps you can find them on ebay more cheaply than amazon.
Here's a head-fi review of the SR850s.
If you want something more expensive, see this Head-fi thread.
Instead of getting a headset I would recommend a Clip-on mic and a pair of headphones as headsets generally have pretty shitty quality compared to getting headphones and a microphone separately. Head-Fi is an excellent resource for finding good ones.
> I'm in the market for a headset
I highly recommend buying a nice pair of headphones (ATH AD700 are a favorite for gaming) and then a mic like this clip on zalman or the antlion modmic. You almost always get better sound quality (playback and recording) for the money and a wider choice of headphones.
None, 5.1 and 7.1 headphones are a scam.. or at the very least redundant.
http://www.overclock.net/t/640943/why-5-1-headphones-are-a-scam-with-pictures
If you have to go for a traditional headset, Sennheiser's usually a good bet.
Otherwise you can just buy a pair of high quality headphones and a clip-on mic like this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Zm-Mic1-Sensitivity-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B00029MTMQ
As long as you avoid koss, bose, logitech, turtlebeach, beats, skullcandy, steelseries, razor and creative, you should be fine. USB headphones are usually pretty bad, as well.
http://www.head-fi.org/a/headphone-buying-guide
(As for which of these you can use on consoles, I guess that depends on the console.)
Hmm, missed that.
One of these:
http://i.imgur.com/FDKeNvN.png
http://www.amazon.com/Zalman-ZM-MIC1-Microphone/dp/B00029MTMQ
http://www.modmic.com/collections/frontpage
Maybe?
>Get a working microphone, or if you already have one, use it
Here is a great inexpensive mic that you can add to a regular stereo headset: Zalman Zm-Mic1 High Sensitivity Headphone Microphone
Yep. They're way more durable and pretty much just as fast as an internal SSD. I use this connector:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
120gb SSDs are cheap these days. I recommend going this route.
Philips SHP9500S on sale for $51.99 for the next 4 days.
V-moda boom pro Mic is $30. I know it's not 20.. but one of the best for connecting into a pair of headphones that has a removable cable.
That's awfully expensive for what you get. You could buy any 480GB 2.5" SSD on the market, and replace the HDD with that. I've replaced several unibody MBPs and MBs with standard SSDs with very good results.
Since average SSDs of that size are on average around $130, you're practically paying $90 for an enclosure for the old HDD and some cheap tools. You can get all of those off Amazon if you really wanted to, and also pick up a USB to SATA cable for $10 to transfer your old stuff, and still save money.
As for reliability of SSDs like the Sandisk or Crucial, I have SSDs ranging from a few cheap Sandisks SSDs to Samsung 960 EVOs, and unless you're constantly transferring GBs of files you won't see an appreciable difference, from boot up times to load speeds. Hope this answered any concerns you had.
Just buy a SATA III to USB connector, plug it into your Xbox, and install Destiny on it. Crisis averted.
Trying to back up a hard disk after it fails usually ends up in partial or complete data loss.
Your best bet would be to buy an inexpensive external hard disk adapter, plug it into the usb port of a working computer, and run a program to attempt to recover any data off the drive. You'll have to hope for the best, but expect the worst. If you're lucky (read: very lucky), only boot partitions of the drive have failed, and your data is mostly untouched.
You would need an adapter similar to this one, but of course make sure that the HDD adapter is for your hard disk in particular, i.e. 2.5" v.s. 3.5"
> but my laptop where I stored it is broke...
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/
That'll accept the standard hard drive used in basically every normal sized laptop since the mid 2000s. If you have a newer laptop with a solid state drive, especially an ultrathin, it may be in a different format which would require a different adapter (or in the case of new Apples, it's soldered to the motherboard and you're SOL. Any normal hard drives and some solid state drives will work though.
If your drive is compatible though you should be able to slap it in that case and plug it in to basically any other computer to get access to the files. Unless of course the hard drive itself is what broke, in which case you're SOL.
I just tested on Amazon.ca and prices for the same products are about the same. Without mention of a rebate/sale.
32GB= 15$CAN
200GB= 139,99CAN
consistent with the USD to CAD exchange rate of 1,36CAD for 1USD.
Is this a price error?Nevermind, same price on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-microSDXC-Standard-Packaging-SDSQUNC-128G-GN6MA/dp/B010Q57S62
I got a samsung evo with no issues
64GB Samsung EVO Select U3 microSDXC Memory Card w/ Adapter (MB-ME64GA/AM)$13.99
128GB Samsung EVO Select U3 microSDXC Memory Card w/ Adapter (MB-ME128GA/AM) $24.99
256GB Samsung EVO Select U3 microSDXC Memory Card w/ Adapter (MB-ME256GA/AM) $59.99
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JYC4XM/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_a137BbTQN6JV7
First thing you need to ask is when did you buy your switch? If it’s June of this year or after it’s probably got a hardware patch and you can’t hack it. You can check here by serial number.
If your switch is exploitable then go on amazon and get yourself an sd card (may want bigger storage depending on how many games you’ll want) and a jig.
Alternatively, you could get an SX Pro, but unless you don’t mind spending extra money, it’s kind of overpriced and everything you need to do without it is pretty cheap and easy.
It’s easiest to let your switch format your sd card to exFat, but DON’T update to 6.2 FW yet. It’s cracked but CFW hasn’t been updated yet. set up 90DNS.This is so you can use internet apps like YouTube and even play some games online later on non-Nintendo servers without worrying about Nintendo detecting your mods. Also, FYI the switch lan play works on OFW and banned switches as well.
Then backup your clean NAND using hekate
VERY IMPORTANT you do this BEFORE you load any CFW or autoRCM for the first time. The only way you’ll ever be able to go back online to eShop and play online on official Nintendo servers is to restore your clean NAND backup (removing CFW). Also keep in mind your fuse count will need to be the same when restoring this so try not to update your FW (even using offline methods) unless you do it without burning fuses.
Then follow instructions here to setup ReiNX (CFW) and a few other important programs and settings you’ll need.
Then go get Smash and have fun!
Qisan Magicforce with Blues:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ABUJ2KM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523897952&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=Qisan&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41JrKWyK32L&amp;ref=plSrch
Qisan Magicforce with Browns:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01E8KO2B0/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523897987&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=Qisan&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41MDmUOhuPL&amp;ref=plSrch
Redragon K551 with Blues (Keep in mind this is the one with red backlighting. You can choose the one with no backlighting if you don’t want it. Rainbow one is a couple bucks over your budget but has set lights while the RGB one is roughly 5 bucks over your budget but has relatively programmable lighting):
https://www.amazon.com/Keyboard-Mechanical-Redragon-illuminated-ABS-Metal/dp/B016M91SS0?th=1&amp;psc=1
Redragon K552 with Blues (The TKL version of the K551. This is the rainbow version with set colors for each switch as it’s under your budget. The RGB version is over your budget by 3 bucks. Same applies though, you can go for no lighting or just plain red for less):
https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-KUMARA-Backlit-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B01LZN7MLE?th=1&amp;psc=1
Velocifire full-size with Blues (Just know that rainbow LEDs means you cannot change the color of the switches. It is not full RGB. It’s still pretty cheap if you want at least some multicolor things, but the colors you see are the colors you get. A bargain for 26 USD though, cheaper than the Redragon K551 rainbow version, although the color of the board is harder to work into a setup compared to the K551’s straight black):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01C8HMIES/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523898681&amp;sr=8-6&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=Velocifire&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51xyHHRfUTL&amp;ref=plSrch
There is also a version of the VM30 with black switches and is also 25 USD. It seems out of stock right now. If you want to wait a bit on that, it’s the cheapest board I’m aware of that comes with black switches:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07BFGZ891/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523899072&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=VM30+Black+switches&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51MCGebQeDL&amp;ref=plSrch
Velocifire full size with Browns (If you’re looking at the wireless version, don’t. The wireless mode of it sucks according to everyone I’ve asked who got it. The only good thing of the wireless version is that you can run wired so that means you’re paying an extra 10 bucks for a removable cable option):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M0QEYR4/?th=1&amp;psc=1
Velocifire TKL with Browns (I linked the wireless version because it seems like the wired version is discontinued. If you can find it, the wired version has blue backlighting and an attached cable for 30 USD. The wireless has a crappy wireless mode, no backlighting as far as I’m aware, but a detachable cable for 40 USD)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B076D5WVYG/
If you’re looking for something like red switches because “gaming,” just know that is pure marketing bullshit. If you’re looking at reds because you actually want them. I’m aware that the Qisan Magicforce also comes in red, but I couldn’t find the 40 dollar option. That’s the only board I’m aware of that has reds in your budget range, but I’m sure someone who knows more can throw one out.
$40 Mech Keyboard
$40 Headset
What you'll need:
Again, there are some very optional parts above. It can be as cheap or expensive as you want. Also, I'm not getting into controllers. Those will throw the budget in every direction possible.
I have that third board, got it off MassDrop last year and I love it! It's my first board and I don't have many complaints. Solid construction, good finish, no dead LEDs after a year -- the keys are eggshell white and get dirty super easily and the polished edge of the board scratches super easy, but it's a great board otherwise. 9/10 do recommend. Here's my unboxing ftc
Edit: for those looking for a backlit version off of Amazon, heres the one I ordered with orange WASD/blue lights, here is a black body blue backlit version sold by the manufacturer and heres a silver body white light version. Heres an unlit version on prime day special for $35.
Magicforce68?
It's not exactly a TKL, but it has the same functionality through the FN key.
If you want a quiet(er) typing experience, go for Browns, Blacks, or Reds. Avoid Blues. If you wanted to make your keyboard slightly quieter, you could use o-rings to dampen the bottom out sound
Just my 2 pennies and I don't actually know what games use what read speed, like u/thebigpavelski mentioned.
&nbsp;
Samsung 128GB 100MB/s (U3) MicroSD EVO Select Memory Card with Adapter (MB-ME128GA/AM)
Up to 100MB/s & 90MB/s read & write speeds respectively; Class 10 UHS 3
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-MicroSD-Adapter-MB-ME128GA-AM/dp/B06XWZWYVP/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523474958&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=samsung+evo+select
&nbsp;
That is my go to sd card for Switch and certain other devices.
Hey, don't get either. Get the non Nintendo branded official sandisk https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-128GB-microSDXC-Memory-Adapter/dp/B073JYC4XM/
It's not only cheaper than both but you can go even higher in size, up to 400gb (you will probably want this eventually). It's exactly the same as the Nintendo but without the Nintendo brand I believe. I would get it over the Samsung. It's what I have and is perfect for the Switch.
When you get it, before you start using it, go to the format options on your Switch settings and make sure you format it. This will ensure it works correctly
>I’m currently using the original memory card that came with the Switch but i’m trying to upgrade for the upcoming games.
Was this with a bundle or something? The Switch doesn't normally come with a memory card.
Edit:
You mean this card? Considering that the same card without branding is $12 cheaper...
Honestly, if you can wait a couple weeks, I'd wait for Black Friday to get a 200+ GB card for cheap.
I bought this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XWZWYVP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;th=1
Smile link: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B074RNRM2B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EJ00BbG2G45G7
That A1 is only eighty freaking dollars today!! Holy shit, with so little performance difference between that and the A2 in the V20, I pulled the trigger without hesitating! Thanks for this, OP!
I don’t know much about micro sd cards but my 256gb card is almost full and I’m considering the below (400gb for $53.53). I’ll prob pick it up on cyber Monday.
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-200GB-microSDXC-Memory-Adapter/dp/B074RNRM2B/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=sandisk%2Bmicro%2Bsd%2Bcard&amp;qid=1571269468&amp;sprefix=sandisk&amp;sr=8-3&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
Edit: just checked and I currently have the 200gb version of this card and I did a lot of research before I bought it and it works fine. You need to watch out for fakes and there was a program I used to load data and remove data to make sure it was ok when I first got it.
> I hope these 400GB MicroSD's at least get on the market this year tho
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-microSDXC-Adapter-SDSQUAR-400G-GN6MA/dp/B074RNRM2B/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504197070&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=sandisk+micro+sd+400gb
I got this one and it's great considering I already had awesome headphones.
I personally chose the 558s, but I'm using them exclusively on my desktop so I don't have to worry about noise leaking out at home or carrying an amp around with me.
Also for gaming I use this.
Much cheaper and excellent audio quality.
I'm gonna be that guy, and say something like Sennheiser HD558 or Audio Technica ATH-M50s with a Zalmann clip on mic or standard desktop mic.
Not as elegant but will sound MUCH better than most, if not all, of the mic + headphone combos.
http://www.pcgamer.com/best-horror-games-pc/
http://www.rockpapershotgun.com/2015/07/27/best-horror-games/
http://www.pcworld.com/article/2838314/software-games/15-terrifying-pc-horror-games-to-play-with-the-lights-off.html
Logitech's offering is slightly less expensive.
Otherwise, remapping a cheap numpad may be your best option.
The Blue Yeti will set him back $100 and will improve his sound to near-studio qualities. I don't know why he doesn't get one.
Is he a stickler for super high quality audio?
If you're not going for the absolute best, but want something that sounds pretty damn good at a relatively reasonable price, take a look at this
I actually use this on my pc for movies and gaming and even basic music production and I love them.
[Have these, can recommend]
(https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-ProMedia-Certified-Computer-Speaker/dp/B000062VUO)
They're loud, boomy, and sound really wonderful.
I had also considered these
I don't use a sound card, just the integrated one on my motherboard, it does the job fine
There's no way you can be on a team without a mic.
Price an issue?
Even a headset will do. Make sure you enable push to talk and are using headphones.
Are you afraid? Get over it. Sorry for the bluntness, but consider your team to be friends. People you'd play any game with and still have a good time. If they aren't people you can relate to, don't join their team. It's that simple. Find people you can relate to easily. Find people that won't yell at you. Find people that will crack the occasional joke and laugh at stupid/amazing plays. You will create incredible bonds with these people, and have lifelong friends. These people must be more important to you than a random lobby player, so talk to them!
And to be honest... most teams don't take people who can't/won't talk. Even if you were Clockwork or Ruwin.
So, get a mic.
Audio Technica ATH-M30x seem to be a good entry-level enthusiast headset but coming in at £60 at amazon I figure you could find better prices elsewhere for that headset. Personally I think it sounds pretty similar to the ATH-M50 while being loads cheaper in my area.
Or the Sennheiser HD 202, it's quite decent for cheap. Also comfortable.
Edit: Here's some cheap clip-on mic in case you game:
Standard recommendation for high quality headphone/microphone combo is a Sennheiser HD555 with a Zalman Clip-on Mic.
I have them both and I find they work well and that they work well together.
First, let me say this: all headphones are surround sound. You only have two places that you can hear from and headphones literally surround them. Surround sound (5.1, 7.1, etc.) in speakers is nice since in order to hear from all directions without getting too technical you need speakers around you. If you see 5.1 or 7.1 headphones, that means they just stuffed a ton of low quality drivers into their phones and is a good sign they are nothing but marketing and that you should avoid them.
Also, if you see a headset that is usb that means it uses it's own sound card essentially, which may be good or bad for you depending on your setup.
For gaming specifically you want headphones with a good sound-stage. There is no gaming headset on the market that compares to getting some good phones plus mic. Sony MDR-V6 and Creative Aurvana Live (rebadged Denon AH-D1001) are a decent choices for your price range. You can always get a desktop mic, a clip-on mic, or better yet find a Labtec LVA-7330 on ebay and do some simple modding and you have yourself a headset with removable mic.
You're going to be doing your ears and the ears of the people you're talking a disservice to by getting a "Gaming Headset." I've owned a Steelseries Siberia v2 for a couple years now and I regret it every time I use them.
Average is the greatest compliment I can give them. Average soundstage, average bass, average highs and average mic quality. And if you're going to be spending ~$90 on a head set you want something that will be more than average.
This is what I wish I went with years ago and what I still wish I could justify buying while my Siberia is functioning:
By going with a pair of headphones that are high quality and feature an exceptional soundstage, which basically means how far around you you can hear (good for picking up footsteps and locating bullet shots), and top of the line sound reproduction you're setting yourself up to have the best of both worlds, gaming and music.
This is all coming from someone who wishes they had more money to spend on audiophile gear. Make sure to check out /r/audiophile as well, they have a lot of good information there as well.
[http://www.head-fi.org/a/buying-guide-headphones-by-price-range]
Forget compressed air, get something like this
Buy one of these and contact me in a week.
DO NOT BUY CANNED AIR.
Get this puppy: http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1323500794&amp;sr=8-2
IT BLOWS!
A data vac will solve ALL your problems.
I have one of THESE, and it's pretty awesome.
get yourself a datavac if cleaning PCs is part of your job. canned air is too expensive for how much you get.
Give this a look: Metro Vacuum ED500 DataVac
I have a can of air duster that I try to dust the vents on the sides/back once a month. I'm really thinking about getting one of these so I don't have to buy those cans that freeze up after 10 seconds.
DataVac, literally a hurricane in your hand.
Link
You can get something like the Logitech G13 and use the joystick with your thumb for movement.
Overall they seemed like decent beginner tips, however
Most people go with the Logitech C920.
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Widescreen-Calling-Recording-Desktop/dp/B006JH8T3S/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485981917&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=logitech+c920
Save yourself the trouble and get this 1080p Webcam. It's basically the best you'll find in quality. And it's fine for what you're doing. Plus it's on sale.
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-960-000764-C920-Webcam/dp/B006JH8T3S/
For anyone wondering, CamelCamelCamel keeps track of Amazon prices for comparison.
This seems to be pretty standard pricing as Darklord says.
Eh, it saves a few bucks so I figure why not. It's $37 on Amazon right now.
Logitech K400, very handy compact keyboard with touchpad.
I think there is a newer version of this though - I recommended this to a friend and when I saw it I noticed the F# keys are switched:
Instead of mine, which has F1-F12 normal and you have to hold [Fn]+[F#] to access the media features, the newer versions have the F1-F12 keys as the[Fn] alternative and the top row is by default the media keys.
This is very handy since the kids keep hitting wrong buttons, and I can't remember what it is but I think it's F8 and XBMC gets muted, and there is another button that toggles fullscreen and that keeps getting hit after I get it back to fullscreen.
On the newer version you don't have to worry about that because you would have to hit [Fn]+[F8] to actually get F8. So it's a perfect HTPC keyboard now if you buy one.
Wireless keyboard and mouse?
Logitech Wireless Touch Keyboard K400 with Built-In Multi-Touch Touchpad, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DKZTMG/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_CiC9ub1RDJTMW
This one has a built in track pad...should be adequate enough for navigating Netflix.
Can't speak to this device, but I have larger hands and enjoy using something closer to a full keyboard. I have the Logitech K400 and I really like it. I paid $20 for it, so it's comprably priced and I'd say worth checking out. Logitech K400
I just figure since most people want nice headphones for listening to music you should probably get a pair of nicer ones and use a separate mic.
Also try this.
http://www.amazon.com/V-MODA-BoomPro-Gaming-Headset-Headphone/dp/B00BJ17WKK
If your headphones have a removable cord w/ 3.5mm jack then the Vmoda Boompro is really where it's at. Cheaper and from what I've seen better sound quality. You also don't have to stick anything on your headphones in order to make it work when compared to the ModMic. I own a ModMic 4.0 and have been kinda kicking myself for not getting a boom pro.
You'll get better sound quality for a better price buying a good pair of regular headphones and adding a mic. Specificially I would suggest getting a pair with a detachable cord and adding this mic.
As for the wireless route, that's a bit more complicated, but you could still pair a set of wireless headphones with an external mic and getting something nice. I have this set of wireless headphones from Sony and really like them, although you could probably do better for $300. For the mic, I would get something like the Blue Snowball.
Philips shp9500 headphones with vmoda boom pro mic.
https://www.amazon.com/Philips-SHP9500-Precision-Over-ear-Headphones/dp/B00ENMK1DW
https://www.amazon.com/V-MODA-BoomPro-Gaming-Headset-Headphone/dp/B00BJ17WKK/
I bought this mic that works well for me:
V-MODA BoomPro Microphone for Gaming & Communication - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BJ17WKK/
More lies to keep the propaganda machine burning.
Oh no, the Black Yeti Mic on amazon is more expensive than the Silver Yeti Mic. They're clearly being racist!
Or, you know, companies have MSRPs and buying things in bulk can reduce the price. Which do you think sells more, the gender neutral scooter, or the pink one?
It's a free market, ladies. Companies wouldn't charge you more for pink shit if you didn't fucking buy it. That's not sexism, that's the difference between an informed consumer and a useful idiot.
Occam's razor is the quick death of most misogyny claims. "Is this a global conspiracy against half of the population?!" .. No, it's just you being a fucking tool.
This is how you design a pair of $120 headphones.. the pin in the G930 is huge. It's also much wider, so the pin won't wear out nearly as fast as a tiny pin, with a very narrow bushing.
As someone who has used trackballs for the better part of seven years, I would highly recommend them for gaming, however, the one OP has I would highly advise against. There's two practical types of trackballs I know of - thumb operated and finger operated. The thumb operated ones like this and this are second to none for FPS games if you can handle the relatively small learning curve and few buttons. The finger operated ones like OP's are truly bizarre to use and take quite some time to become proficent enough to perform the most trivial tasks
I recommend a Yeti.
It's not what I use but my setup doesn't work for what you're looking for. This is a solid mic, in my opinion.
My dental work is finally done. Complete. Finished. I'm not going back for a while. Good riddance.
So, my church has been trying to get into streaming for the last year. Just a basic type of stream with a single camera pointing at a couch, with some live music and a reading of that week's sermon. The church board allocated $3000 to the project, their blessing, and then nothing happened for months.
A couple weeks ago, they tried their first stream. The camera "broke" so they streamed on a cellphone with a bitrate resembling pre-2000 internet videos. The next week was the same thing. Then, they got the camera "working" but the framerate was low, the image was stuttery and it was blurry like it was zoomed in and not in HD. The audio was also really echoy, and the lighting was just light coming from the pastor's office window.
I'm a media guy, and while my specialty is mostly in radio/audio tech, I've done work with streaming and video production in the past. Knowing that the budget would be tight, I came in with a list of recommendations to vastly improve the quality of the streams and to teach basic broadcasting procedures. What I walked into was a bit of a trainwreck.
The church administrator was tasked with acquiring the streaming equipment. After a false start with a video camera that couldn't stream video, he ended up getting a DSLR camera. The image quality is actually quite nice, but it has to be fully charged before the stream, whatever. He bought a USB 3.0 video link cable for the camera, which actually works brilliantly, but nobody involved knew that a USB 3.0 cable goes into a USB 3.0 slot. They were putting it into USB 2.0 slots and wondering why the video was absolutely terrible.
My church has an absolute wealth of microphones of all different styles for many different purposes. Instead of buying a cheap XLR interface or splurging on a USB soundboard, the admin bought a Blue Yeti. Aside from being useless as a room mic, it not only cost more, but the audio quality is vastly worse than even the cheapest stage mics we have on hand. I'm sure one of the pastors can find a use for this (I know that they record stuff for people), it has no place anywhere near someone's streaming setup. I have to lend/give my current XLR-interface from home to rectify this.
Speaking of audio, the office they chose to stream in has a reverb problem. I get that they don't want to spend a lot of money or convert the room into a studio (I mean, it is a pastor's office), but the echo is too distracting for the average person. If the audio sucks, nobody is going to want to watch this thing. I get to talk with the property team this Sunday to get some hooks installed along the walls to hang some old, heavy blankets from. They can hide them away when they're not filming, and it will make a massive difference to the echo issue. If we somehow don't have blankets on hand, that's probably the easiest donation to ever ask for.
When the blankets go up, I need the office window covered, because the natural lighting is absolutely terrible. It makes everyone look flat, kinda washed out, and casts shadows on people's faces. I'm gonna try to wrangle up the ~$150 required to get a basic 2-box lighting kit that can be stored when not streaming.
So, they decided to stream with OBS, which gets my approval, but there are issues. They're using a 4-year-old laptop, which surprisingly isn't the limiting factor here. Nobody knew what they were doing with settings, so they were streaming in 733p and outputting at an even worse resolution. They also couldn't figure out how to remove the camera overlay that showed up on the screen, so they had zoomed in to crop that out, and tried streaming like that. Despite using the USB mic, they were only taking in laptop microphone audio. They turned the program on, figured out how to get the camera to feed, and then hit stream. I have no other explanation.
Simply said, I am taking over this project. Everything I said here is fundamental to basic broadcasting, and is the cheapest professional-quality setup I can currently imagine that won't be total jank. I hope there's budget left, but I think the entire $3000 was spent on the streaming couch, camera, usb mic, the camera cable and other nonsense.
I've got a lot of work to do. I told people involved in the project that I'm experienced with streaming and broadcasting production and offered insight throughout, which was ignored. I can't believe how out of hand this whole thing got.
Together these would go for around $90 to $100 brand new after taxes.
SPH9500S from Newegg for $54.99
VMODA BoomPro Mic from Amazon for $29.99
So for me it would come out $32.46 for the mic and $58.98 for the headphones $91.44 after CA taxes.
I don't think so, but you can always get something like https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01IRCXC9S
or even the V-Moda BoomPro mic
but you'll need a 3.5mm to 2.5mm adapter as well. (e: and some modding due to the twist-lock, Youtube has guides)
edit: Looks like there is bundle @ $79 which includes a mic, not many details on it though. See my post here.
It's a pretty normal price on Amazon. From its price history, it didn't stay at 90$ for long.
Amazon Smile link
Definitely a Screen Protector
A Travelling Case would be nice.
I also added Dr Scholls Moleskin to the front of my dock to reduce the risk of scratching the screen protector. (Two small strips on the parts inside the dock that are raised.)
A Memory Card also helps for the digital only games.
What color Switch did you get? I got the grey switch then bought a pair of Red Joycons and another pair of Blue Joycons. So in total I have a grey, red, and blue L Joycon and a grey, red, and blue R Joycon.
If you got the grey switch and then buy the [two color Joycon packs] (https://www.amazon.com/Nintendo-Switch-Joy-Con-Neon-Neon-Blue/dp/B01N6QJ58Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493753597&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=blue+joycons) then you won't be able to get one of each color for L/R without over paying. This is because the [two color Joycon packs] (https://www.amazon.com/Nintendo-Switch-Joy-Con-Neon-Neon-Blue/dp/B01N6QJ58Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493753597&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=blue+joycons) are always Red L and Blue R.
If you bought a neon switch, then buy the [two color Joycon pack] (https://www.amazon.com/Nintendo-Switch-Joy-Con-Neon-Neon-Blue/dp/B01N6QJ58Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493753597&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=blue+joycons) and a pair of Grey Joycons for all combinations.
Also, don't buy Joycons on Amazon, they are stupid expensive right now.
I don't have a pro controller yet, but people seem to love it.
Games:
Zelda = Must Buy
Mario Kart 8 Deluxe = Must Buy
1-2 Switch = Great for parties/friends
Snipperclips = Great for people who don't play games often (girlfriends/parents/kids). Secret here is to not explain how to play/what to do and let them have fun and try to figure out the puzzles on their own. Act like a support character and you'll have a blast watching them.
Binding of Isaac = I love this game, but put countless hours on the PC version. Mature themes
Super Bomberman R = Classic mode with easy CPUs is fun for roommates. I haven't played through the adventure mode yet.
Wonderboy = Cute/Fun side scroller.
Has Been Heroes = I don't have this yet, apparently very difficult.
Other notes:
I started collecting amiibos after getting a switch (Be very careful, it's easy to get addicted and drop a ton of money here).
I got a Joycon charging dock since the only way to charge extra pairs of Joycons without the Joycon charging dockis to rotate them in and out of the switch while it charges/docked.
Let me know if you have any other questions!
PS I love the Switch so much. It's definitely my favorite console ever.
1. Best USB Hub
Inateck 3 Ports USB 3.0 Hub and RJ45 10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet Hub
2. Best Mouse
Logitech MX Anywhere 2 Wireless Mobile Mouse
3. Best MicroSD
SanDisk Ultra 128GB microSDXC UHS-I Card
4. Best Value Sleeve
AmazonBasics 11.6-Inch Laptop Sleeve
Why don't you get the Sandisk Micro SD card of the same capacity?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010Q57S62/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I'm sure it works fine?
Edit: Yeah as one of the comments pointed out , it is cheaper too.
I have an SSD and that improved my loading times by a good amount of time, also helps to have better internet, my speeds are good enough but not great at all.
They really aren't that expensive, I'll point you in the right direction if you want. Also helps a ton with games like PUBG, BF, Red Dead, GTA etc.
.
Edit: If anyone is wondering I have one 512GB Silicon Power 3D NAND A55 SLC Cache Performance Boost SATA III 2.5" 7mm (0.28") Internal Solid State Drive from Amazon for $49.99 USD along with another of the same Silicon Power SSD but in 256GB for $28.99 USD.
Then you need the enclosure which costs $8.99: Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-Free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized for SSD, Support UASP SATA III]. Super simple set up, literally open the enclosure by sliding the top off, slide the SSD into the connection slot in the enclosure, put the top on, plug it in to the USB slot and turn the thing on. Really nice price, had never heard of the brand but it has really good reviews, and works well for me. Just about the cheapest SSD I've seen on Amazon with an average review of 4.5+ (and at least 1k reviews).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075RJS55D/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_track_package_o2_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_track_package_o2_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
That's the exact stuff I bought. Buildings always load before I hit the ground
I'd recommend taking the hard drive out to see what size it is and then ordering a SATA to USB connector lead online. You can then plug the hard drive into any computer. That way you can have a look for yourself to see if there is anything 'dodgy' on there, and if you don't find anything, you could put back the hard drive and get it computer fixed with out worrying about it.
I picked up this SATA to USB lead recently off of Amazon for $12 and it works great: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZJI84
PS4/PS4 Pro - External SSD is vastly superior to the default HDD. Using an internal SSD can be faster or slower than using it externally. Basically, your probably best off keeping your internal HDD for games you play less often and slapping Destiny plus a few other titles on an external SSD as there's not a ton of speed to be gained by going internal.
Xbox One - Similar to the PS4, you will gain an immense amount of speed by using an external SSD instead of the internal HDD. I don't think you can normally install an SSD internally with Xbox.
By the way, if you're thinking, "but damn external SSDs have stupid markup on them" then you are absolutely correct, have a cookie. Now buy your regular cheap internal SSD and slap it in one of these. Can't tell you how it functions with Xbox but works perfectly with my Pro. Also note that depending on the SSD you may have to pop it into a computer (or plug it in with the enclosure) and initialize the drive/format it for the PS4 to properly recognize it but this step isn't always necessary it seems.
Is it possible to use the V-moda boom mic with this?
These are always on sale for about $58 but figured the $46 was a pretty good deal. I bought the open box deal a few weeks ago and there was nothing wrong with them, aside from the box being torn up, but that is just my own experience, yours may differ.
So far these things are fantastic! I have them paired with a V-Moda Boompro and everything works and sounds great. There is a large community for these and a lot of tutorials on how to change out the pads and whatnot.
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Here are a few links for you all
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New ---> $57.99
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V-Moda Boompro ---> $29.98 + Free Shipping
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Review
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Modded
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Thingiverse
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Replacement pad adapter for sale on Ebay.
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Replacement pads without pad adapter
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Tuning
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Discussion Thread
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You should state your budget.
Anyway,
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ENMK1DW + http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BJ17WKK
Ooooh misinterpreted the replacement suggestions lol I'm looking at the Sennheiser HD 598 open back here but the closed back are cheaper and might suit you better, you can buy something like this if you need a mic.
It's very solid. I enjoy it quite a bit for voice chat, and it's directionality means my mechanical keyboard doesn't get picked up quite as much.
That being said: if you've got room in your life (IE your headphones utilize a standard 3.5mm jack at the headphone end) for something like the V Moda mic it's a little cheaper for close to the same thing.
I don't know what OP's pricerange is, but I would HIGHLY recommend avoiding any kind of "gaming" headphones, and go for a solid pair of audiophile headphones with a mic attatchment for when playing games. Anyone looking into headphones should definitely checkout the weekly advice threads on /r/headphones.
These are for Micro SD cards, note that it has a hindge in the left so there should be 2 spots under it. With this card holder setup + the Switch itself one could have:
5 x 128 GB Micro SD Cards for a total of 640 GB for 200 Dollars.
or
5x 200 GB Micro SD card for a total of 1000 GB for 325 dollars.
or
Any combination of Micro SD cards that meet your specific storage demands.
Note: 128 GB is the top capacity validated according to rumors. however like in the 3ds the Switch likely supports bigger SD cards. Also the prices of flash media are going down so this will be cheaper in the future. Furthermore I didn't include 256 GB Micro SD cards because I didn't find any with a reasonable price.
But then amazon gets the extra. Instead go to this link and donate to a charity:
http://smile.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-200GB-Micro-SDSDQUAN-200G-G4A/dp/B00V62XBQQ/
Nand technology is very different from how a hdd operates. The hdd actually houses mechanical parts and a spinning disk. If you look how ssd hdd is half the size of a standard hdd. It also uses nand technology. The person who created that meme obviously never came across this .
Edit: to further answer your question, the nand cells they store data on are stacked on each other in a tiny space and the rest of the card is the interface to interact with peripherals. Not only are they shrinking in size, but the read/write speeds are increasing.
My picks...
Micro SD: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010Q57S62/
Case: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MS7AI9G/
And Amazon.
Edit: aaaaaaaaand it's gone
It's the same price on Amazon too, though.
I've been going overboard with accessories. Here's what I picked up so far:
Glass screen protector - Just in case.
128GB microSD card - I rarely buy physical games
Pro Controller - I love it. So comfortable.
PowerA Hybrid Case - I basically use this as a stand for my Switch when I'm on the go.
JDeal portable dock - It works. Make sure to follow the instructions. Works with my Nexus5x 5v 3A portable charger.
[Retractable HDMI cable] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019J96PSI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1)
Hestia case - The Switch with the PowerA Hybrid Case, portable dock, portable USB-C charger, and retractable HDMI cable all fit in this.
USB 3.0 LAN Adapter - Faster speeds when on the official dock.
Gooseneck tablet holder - Ultimate comfort. Play while in bed.
Magic NS Wireless Adapter - I had originally bought this so I could use my PS4 controller. This was before I picked up the Pro Controller. It works. There was a recent firmware update that gives gyro support for PS4 controllers and it works well with Splatoon 2.
On the way:
Mumba case - For better comfort/protection while playing in handheld mode.
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-microSDXC-Standard-Packaging-SDSQUNC-128G-GN6MA/dp/B010Q57S62/ref=sr_1_10?m=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&amp;s=warehouse-deals&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469811987&amp;sr=1-10
128 GB for 25 bucks! What a time to be alive!!!!
dont buy it off ebay, buy direct from a store or amazon, sandisk are best and then samsung. also walmart or best buy wil match amazon. heres what i bought
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-microSDXC-Standard-Packaging-SDSQUNC-128G-GN6MA/dp/B010Q57S62/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491399875&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=128gb+micro
Currently right now on Amazon 128GB card for $32.
No ref code: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010Q57S62
You should probably buy the V-Moda BoomPro as it does exactly what you want.
That particular setup (SHP9500 + BoomPro) is pretty popular on r/headphones.
I had something similar until I upgraded to the Fidelio X2 (Phillip's really nice higher-end set of headphones)
Don't get a gaming headset.
Get a nice pair of headphones with a removable cord and this:
http://www.amazon.com/V-MODA-BoomPro-Gaming-Headset-Headphone/dp/B00BJ17WKK
http://www.amazon.com/V-MODA-BoomPro-Gaming-Headset-Headphone/dp/B00BJ17WKK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452554901&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=vmoda+boom+pro+mic
Antlion Audio ModMic Attachable Boom Microphone - Noise Cancelling with Mute Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R98JVVU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hjFnDbC6MMVXR
I haven’t found anything better for cheaper. If you select no mute switch it’s like 6 bucks cheaper.
yes, but you would need to get a mic with it, that is what Im doing. the best one I could fined http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R98JVVU?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=ox_sc_act_title_3&amp;smid=A34JWT04R7KMFW
Edit: thanks for downvoting me stranger.
Samsung 850 EVO 250GB 2.5-Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-75E250B/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OAJ412U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_KxmKtLPHeWGx8
Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized For SSD, Support UASP SATA III] Black (EC-UASP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_MsUOAQq2VgL3h
I just added a SSD to my day one Xbox for $40. It is totally worth it especially for Destiny.
Case
SSD
Do you have any pair of headphone at all? If so I would recommend this VMODA boom mic
Phillips SHP9500 + Vmoda BoomPro
Yes I bought an $10 enclosure.
Here are the 2 items I bought:
Samsung 850 EVO 250GB 2.5-Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-75E250B/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OAJ412U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_CdzXXahiHqmFH
Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized For SSD, Support UASP SATA III] Black (EC-UASP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_m4inanakDfvZ8
SSD : https://www.amazon.com/Silicon-Power-Performance-Internal-SP256GBSS3A55S25/dp/B075RJS55D
Enclosure : https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S
Together, they are pretty cheap. Just pop the SSD in the enclosure, plug in, and you’re good to go.
> http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/259157-REG/Giottos_AA1900_Rocket_Air_Blower.html
Now why use that when there's this:
http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1412301341&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=computer+blower
https://www.amazon.com/Metro-ED500-DataVac-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW/
I use this! http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW
Tis why i use this: http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1451945541&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=datavac+vacuum best electric duster ever
Use compressed air or something like this.
Make sure you don't spin the fans super fast, and if you use canned air make sure you keep the can level and spray in short bursts.
I got sick of buying compressed air, so I made a long term investment.
while I don't have a specific sub for you, I can highly recommend the following product: Metro Datavac
don't worry, it's not an affiliate link. It's way more economical then buying canned air, it's made in the USA, and it's got stellar reviews. I'm quite happy with mine.
EDIT: I should note that it is not a vacuum, despite the name. It blows air.
Not free, but will save you money after a while instead of buying cans of air:
The DataVac:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001J4ZOAW?pc_redir=1396810604&amp;robot_redir=1
I use one of these.
Cans of compressed air can sometimes throw out the accelerant used to compress the air. This isn't great for internal components. Also, this never depletes. Take the computer to an open area that airs outdoor (garage, shed, etc.) Take off the case door and if your case has any filters take them out, too. Blow out the filters first. When you get near the fans, hold them so they don't spin freely. You should see the dust bunnies start to fly. Blow from front to back as dust will build up in the direction of your case's natural air flow. Use the attachments for narrow areas or for detailing.
Tips:
DataVac $60. Over time it pays for itself.
You could get him a really cool gaming keypad. Something meant for mmo's like the logitech g13 or the Razer Tartarus
Razer also has a more expensive one called the orbweaver
Putting the word "gaming" in front of something doesn't make it better. In fact, going out and looking for "gaming speakers" almost insures you are going to get one of the worst products at the price point.
There are no such things as "gaming speakers". They're just speakers.
I haven't looks at 2.1 setups for quite a while, but the Klipsch Pro Media 2.1's have always been relatively well reviewed for the price. Like I said though, I haven't looked at stuff for a while so there may be better deals out there now.
Those systems are garbage. Save up for this Klipsh 2.1 or buy it used. It will blow the ones you listed out of the water and is suited for games/hometheater or music. It's double your budget but it's 10 times the system.
how about just a microphone?
Zahlman Zm-Mic1
much cheaper, good sound. Should serve you just fine for VOIP
Beater headphones and get this Mic. Zalman ZM
I have a nice set of Audio-Technicas that I use for music but needed a mic. This satisfied ALL my needs.
For question number one, PLEASE get a headset and a microphone BEFORE you start playing. Here is a link to a good mic for a cheap price
No, do not buy surround sound headsets, even if you play CSS. I spent around $100 for my pair of 5.1 surround sound headphones (Tritton was the brand -- the audio division of Mad Catz), and while they were a very blatant step up from the shitty generic Logitech headsets I'd used in the past, they are not even close to the quality you get when you just purchase a normal pair of high-quality headphones, especially considering how much more expensive they were.
Immediately after going through two different pairs of surround sound headsets, I decided to just buy normal headphones and a separate microphone for voice chat. I currently use a JVC HARX900 and a Zalman mic, which will cost you about $70 altogether, but it's well worth it in my opinion. The sound quality is fantastic, and most FPS games are made well enough that you can get distinguish sound coming from different directions, even with stereo headphones.
Surround sound headphones are entirely unnecessary, and I wish someone had been there to tell me that before I bought mine.
As a side note, listening to music on stereo headphones vs. a surround sound headset will make no difference, as pretty much 99% of music is 2 channel anyway, so having 5 speakers makes no difference. Yes, it can be upmixed to 5.1, but if you just buy a good pair of stereo headphones, it will sound equal to, if not better, than the surround sound headphones.
>Headphones
I'm tempted to get a pair of Axent Wears, but I'm nowhere stylish ^^nor ^^cute enough to pull off the look.
Honestly, "gaming" headphones aren't renowned for sound quality. IMHO, it's better to get an affordable pair of audiophile high quality earphones like the MylarOne Bijous/Westone UMPro10s/Shure SE215s and then get an attached microphone (Zalman and Modmic are good choices for those). This is purely my opinion though :)
Regardless, Black Friday is coming up, so keep a lookout on Amazon for good deals!
http://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Zm-Mic1-Sensitivity-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B00029MTMQ
I bought one of these that clips on to my headphones cable fine. You can also just fold the collar of your shirt over as well. Might want to get a sleeve to keep it together with your headphone cable. I don't really use a mic often though so I don't mind 2 cables when using it too much.
http://www.amazon.com/Superlux-HD-681-Professional-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B00BWUHHYE
http://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Zm-Mic1-Sensitivity-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B00029MTMQ
Really good headphones for an excellent price. 7.1 is just a fancy marketing technique and a good pair of headphones is more than you'll need.
Mic is excellent as well, it clips on the cable of the headphone.
There is a white version of the headphones if you want, http://www.amazon.com/Superlux-HD-681-Professional-Monitoring-Headphones/dp/B00CAG1ZG0/ref=pd_sim_MI_5?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=00MCGHWWKXXYERJ2ZWW6
You could also look into getting something like a Logitech G13 or Razer Tartarus. They've got fully programmable buttons and a D-pad/Joystick. Might help out in your case.
I own one of these and use it in conjunction with my G13. Never looked back.
WASD or ESDF does not make much difference when you're used to it.
Also, since you're using them as controls and not typing letters, the touch-typist habits are not relevant.
Furthermore, many gamers are not using a full keyboard anymore...
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-G13-Programmable-Gameboard-Display/dp/B001NEK2GE/
Silver is also the same price. (Other colors are $89.)
Monoprice headphones and the Zalman clip on mic. It's the best setup you can do in your budget. It's the only pair of super cheap headphones that I've actually seen the people at head-fi.org rave about. No headsets are going to be all that great on your budget...or in general for that matter, so go for a separate mic and headphone.
He has some good advice. But for the love of all that is holy. Please do not buy a "gaming" headset.
Invest in a good pair of headphones and attach something like a Antlion Mod-Mic to it. You'll end up with far better sound, a similar if not better mic, for around the same or cheaper price as those "high end gaming" headsets.
Something like this: Audio-Technica ATH-AD700 $99 + Antlion ModMic $32 or Zalman Zm-Mic1 Clip-On Mic $6.99
Gives you a set of incredibly good sounding headphones for both music and gaming, and a mic comparable to the one you are going to find on any headset out there (no matter how expensive, unless you want to go super high end).
If you don't like the look of the ATH-AD700s, then browse through this wonderful thread/font of knowledge on headphones at Head-Fi.org: Link.
As for mechanical keyboards, the Steelseries 6Gv2 Cherry MX Black is a good choice.
In terms of mice, I suggest you go to your local computer shop and try out mice there with your hand. You need to find one that fits the way you like to grip your mouse and one that is fit for you. I'd even recommend the same with the mechanical keyboards. A place like Frys is a great place to test them out as the regularly have the mechanical keyboards out on display to test.
Only the uber gamer has a mic and headphones?
My mic cost 8 dollars, it is the size of a quarter and provides perfectly serviceable audio quality, despite the fact that it is currently hidden somewhere under the mess that is my desk.
My headphones are cheap earbuds. My bet is the average household has three of these things, they cost less than a burger and I've had this pair long enough to have forgotten when I acquired it.
One doesn't need an overpriced neon gaming headset to talk to people online, whether it is playing games with friends who've moved out of state or geographically distant family. And it certainly doesn't have to be integrated with the device. If I buy a VR headset today, I would need to make zero changes to my $15 audio input and output to play with friends immediately.
I think you must not have seen this type of mic, otherwise I don't understand how you can hold the view you do.
Not a headset... but I went with headphones and mic.
> Metro ED500 DataVac
Link for the lazy
How about the DataVac Metro ED500? It's very popular with IT folk, and it's perfect for your intended usage.
http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW
Bonus -- it's half the price of the compressor you suggested.
Seriously, just buy one of these and never worry about it again.
http://www.amazon.com/Metro-ED500-DataVac-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463028631&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=duster+electric
That eventually happens to any filter. It happens faster in a high dust area like in my case.
I would rather the dust get caught on the nylon ped than be inside my system.
Every few weeks I clean the ped by blowing it with a Data Vac and rubbing the dust off with my hand. Dust still gets inside but it takes much longer for the heat sinks inside to get to the point where the dust needs to be peeled off like a dryer sheet.
If you're looking for a solution that doesn't cost money forever, I might suggest a DataVac. It works wonders cleaning electronics, air purifiers, fans.. basically anything that collects dust.
Link for the lazy.
You need one of these:
Audio Technica AD700 are pretty much the standard audiophile reccomendation when it comes to sub-$150 gaming headphones. Pair it with a Zalman Zm-Mic1 and I can pretty much guarantee you that you will never touch a gaming headset again. The AKGs are a good option but I would opt for the AD700 if you can spare the extra $15. They offer a better soundstage which is critical for gaming as it gives you a better sense of your surroundings.
i'm using a pair of audio technica ath-m50's (which are used primarily for listening to music but works as a headset just fine) along with a clip on zalman mic.
i understand that this might be a little more expensive than you are looking to spend, but buying a headset for gaming only seems kind of inefficient to me. in reality you can just pick up that clip on mic (which is super high quality) and pair it with some ear-buds you have lying around.
$8
Zalman Zm-Mic1 High Sensitivity Headphone Microphone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00029MTMQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_9rSpxb0W2PRGG
Most people would recommend a Blue Snowball but I really like the concept of the Modmic. Honestly though, I used a three dollar desktop microphone I got from Microcenter and, while I wore the headphones to get rid of background noise, I was getting compliments on the microphone quality.
Edit: I forgot about the Zalman clip-on but that seems like such a pain.
Razer makes good mice, not headsets. Get a Sennheiser
Lower priced
Higher Priced
And just use this mic. It works great, and is very clear. I have never heard of pulsewave as a competitive brand, and that headset doesn't look as sturdy as most Sennheiser's.
I wouldn't recommend any traditional gaming headsets, you would do better to get a good pair of headphones and a separate mic. Gaming headsets have good mics, but the speakers are almost always lacking compared to similarly priced headphones.
I've used many headsets from Logitech, Steelseries, Razer, Turtle Beach, and a few other companies, and anything from Sennheiser, Audio Technica, Beyerdynamic, Denon, AKG, or the multitude of quality audiophile manufacturers, will give you far better audio.
Sennheiser makes the only really good headsets in my opinion, the PC350 and PC360, but they are expensive at around $200, and don't sound as good as the HD598's for about the same price.
Steelseries makes okay headsets, but are over priced for the audio quality. The 5Hv2 and 7H are incredibly comfortable, and the Siberia v2 are quite comfy as well (not if you have a large head though, I have 7 7/8 hat size and was fatigued in an hour). Also their build quality is very good. They produce very accurate locational noise, but be warned as Steelseries headsets have no bass at all at the cost of having very clear footstep identification.
I wouldn't even consider Razer products as their build quality is sub-optimal.
Check out: reddit.com/r/audiophile and reddit.com/r/headphones for all the info you want on good headphones.
Also www.head-fi.org/a/headphone-buying-guide is a good place to start.
For gaming I use Audio Technica ATH-AD700 and Zalman Zm-Mic1. The AD700's don't have a large bass presence, so bass thumps don't interfere with footsteps and important locational noise (which they produce very accurately). These are by far the most comfortable headphones I have ever had on. The ModMic is also a very good mic option for any headphone.
Do a little research on the audio sub-reddits and you will find the perfect solution for your needs.
Sorry, it's over budget but here is my setup:
Headphones (Really quite amazing for the price):
http://www.amazon.com/JVC-HARX700-Precision-Sound-Headphones/dp/B0013OWPV4
Clip on Mic:
http://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Zm-Mic1-Sensitivity-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B00029MTMQ
If you shop around, you may be able to find them cheaper. I wouldn't have bothered mentioning my setup knowing it's over budget but I researched and scrutinized for a solid month when I made these purchases and these seemed to be as good as it gets under $50
Edit:
Looks like there are cheaper mics with good ratings here: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&amp;N=100007792%204024&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;bop=And&amp;Order=REVIEWS&amp;PageSize=20
The same headphones I would recommend for anything. ATH-M50s. If you shop around you can find them for ~$100.
http://www.headphone.com/selection-guide/top-picks/audio-technica-ath-m50.php
I spent a lot of time shopping around and comparing before settling on those & I have to say there really isn't anything that compares for a comparable price.
Then just get a cheap clip-on mic (like this) and you're good to go.
Whatever you do don't waste money on a "gaming headset". You'll be happier in the long run if you buy a decent set of cans & a separate mic. And DEFINITELY don't be suckered into a pair of "5.1 headphones" that have multiple drivers per ear. A good set of stereo headphones + virtual surround will kick the shit out of them every time.
http://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Zm-Mic1-Sensitivity-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B00029MTMQ
Skip coffee for a couple days and bam, you've got a solid microphone equivalent to those that are installed in many combination headsets.
HERE is an Amazon link
I'd recommend the Butterfox case instead of the licensed one, since it's more versatile, aesthetically pleasing, cheaper and fits more stuff. (i.e. ac adapter). If you want this one than make sure it's the 9 cartridge one, since that's the newest version. Also a 128 SD card class 10 will most likely go on sale this coming black friday/cyber monday.
On sale for $17.48 right now. Great deal....
SanDisk Ultra 128GB microSDXC UHS-I card with Adapter -ÃÂ 100MB/s U1 A1 - SDSQUAR-128G-GN6MA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JYC4XM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eq-RCbWZGB8ZP
400gb micro sandisk SD - $62.99
https://www.amazon.ca/Sandisk-SDSQUAR-400G-GN6MA-Ultra-400GB-Adapter/dp/B074RNRM2B
https://www.amazon.de/SanDisk-Ultra-microSDXC-Speicherkarte-Adapter/dp/B074RNRM2B/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=400gb+sandisk&qid=1566807391&s=gateway&sr=8-1
&#x200B;
70 Euros for 400gigs
&#x200B;
You're welcome
As others have mentioned, that's not a mech board, but easy to see the confusion. Here are some other amazon alternatives within your budget:
These are clicky loud switches
Magicforce with Outemou Blues
Here is the same board but with Outemou Brown switches, these are tactile, so you feel the bump, but don't have the click sound
Magicforce with Outemou Browns
And if you want cherry switches, this is the magicforce with cherry switches and is backlit (the other two are not)
Magicforce with Cherry switches
So I hate to have you start a new addiction ;) but the ladies and lads over at /r/mechanicalkeyboards have a plethora of different keyboards varying in price. The caps were gifted to me and originally black. This is a MagicForce 68 that I purchased used from a friend so I am not 100% on the MSRP this has MX Black on it.
Keycaps: https://www.massdrop.com/buy/galaxy-c-pbt-all-over-dye-subbed-keycap-set currently have a sale on Massdrop for them I saw. My friends got it for me during Christmas at the original $100 price point this is Almost 50 bucks off!
Keyboard:The Black on is the pricer of the two probably be cause of the switches. https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-GATERON-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01E57PUNA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486745275&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=magicforce+68
Looks like the White version is on Sale also!
https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-68-Keys-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01E8KO2B0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486745211&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=magicforce+68
Nice and small giving me as much room as possible for my mouse.
https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-68-Keys-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01E8KO2B0/
Check out the Magicforce 68 on Amazon.
Personally, I don't think you can go wrong with a Magicforce 68 as an entry level mechanical keyboard. Qisan sells them on Amazon with Outemu switches, another Cherry MX clone similar to Kailh switches, for about $40 here.
Not that much
You can get cheaper (as seen in the recommendations), but this is my suggestion. The person I replied to didn't ask for a $34 option, just a cheaper option.
With the price of cards, go with a 128 Gig Card. They are SO cheap now. 256 Gig cards are still way too expensive. You could buy 2 128s and swap them out cheaper than 1 256.
If you're going to get that might as well get this:
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-MicroSD-Adapter-MB-ME128GA-AM/dp/B06XWZWYVP/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520880220&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=samsung+sd+evo
same price, but faster card, and better reputation.
For a mere $5 more, you don't have to deal with shipping (through Amazon): https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B009C98NPY/?tag=pcp0f-20
Take those K7XX's, throw in a 3 pin mini xlr to 3.5mm and a boompro mic, and baby you've got yourself
a stewa top-tier gaming headset.^If ^you ^don't ^have ^an ^external ^mic, ^which ^I'm ^just ^assuming ^you ^don't ^since ^you ^were ^coming ^from ^the ^Game ^Ones.
Ill give you my setup. Great for games and a nice set of headphones for day to day music. You can shop around for better prices.
Headset
Mic
Boom Pro might have been easier ;)
> So unless he's somehow got a 4K webcam
You mean like the #1 bestselling webcam on Amazon, whose images are 5168x2907, or almost double 4K?
4K = 8.3 megapixels. Most popular webcam for sale today = 15 megapixels. I bought my webcam in a supermarket for $25 and it does 4K stills.
A logitech HD 1080p Webcam, it's like 80 bucks.
My guess is it's this one.
Which I also use. It's a great webcam.
Edit: Do not google search "Jesse Cox Webcam." Nothing good comes of it.
non referral link
Hey /u/QuestionSleep - Nice work on the sounds for your video! It looks like everyone is giving you a bit of a hard time about the video quality though. So I'm here to help! :)
Here's a couple of super basic things to help you:
That webcam will film at a good frame rate automatically in 1080p. Problem solved!
Other than that, keep it up! Us ASMRtists have to keep working. Let me know if I can help you any more. And awesome Power Rangers top! :D
Hey man I understand. I do need a new camera. Probably gonna be getting one for christmas.
EDIT: This will be here in 2 days. :)
I've been thinking about buying the Logitech HD Pro Webcam C920 to use mostly as a mic as a lot of people of YouTube use it for the same purpose along with the video recording and there voices sound very clear.
I just don't really like having the mic boom on my Astro A40s which is why I'm thinking of getting that webcam to use as a mic.
So let's cut right down to it and explain the parts:
---
This is the Cherry MX red review and I went for the Cherry MX brown. The reds are perhaps even more silent once you've applied the O-rings. Not entirely sure about that. Here is a very good read about mechanical keyboards and especially a nice look at the different switches. I use MX browns personally and it's not silent at all, but it's far less loud compared to MX blues, that I've used previously.
Note: the total price is without the keyboard, mouse & webcam.
---
Now I will also provide you with my standard list of videos to help you understand why I suggest these parts.
Lastly I'll also provide you with a couple of great guides to help you build the PC.
I have to post this in a reply to this post, since I went over the 10.000 character limitation reddit provides per post.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Xeon E3-1231 V3 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | $252.98 @ Newegg
CPU Cooler | CRYORIG M9i 48.4 CFM CPU Cooler | $25.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | MSI B85-G43 GAMING ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $93.98 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill Value Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1333 Memory | $63.99 @ Newegg
Storage | A-Data Premier SP550 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $63.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $68.09 @ Amazon
Video Card | Gigabyte GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB WINDFORCE 3X Video Card | $629.99 @ B&H
Case | Phanteks Enthoo Pro M ATX Mid Tower Case | $69.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $69.99 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) | $94.16 @ Amazon
Monitor | Acer G257HU smidpx 60Hz 25.0" Monitor | $254.10 @ B&H
Capture Card| AVerMedia Live Gamer Extreme| $150.00 @ Amazon
Keyboard | Cooler Master CM Storm QuickFire TK Wired Mini Keyboard | $85 @ Newegg
Keyboard sound dampening| Cherry MX O-rings| $13 @ Amazon
Mouse | Logitech G502 Wired Optical Mouse | $50 @ BestBuy
Webcam| Logitech C920| $63 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes and discounts |
| Total | $1837.25
| Generated by Kiwiandapple |
I'm assuming you're wanting to build a desktop, so that's what my advice is for.
Spez: you seem to not know a whole lot, if you are building and/or need some more advice feel free to pm me
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006JH8T3S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 Best cam I ever used.
Amazon has those for $25. They've been down at $20 till recently.
Here's the link
That's me...the 20$ logitech one.
Works just great for couch surfing.
Set up a low cost PC (you don't need very much power to play video) with HDMI out and a wireless keyboard (the logitech k400r is fantastic, the batteries literally last for a year). The Plex Home Theater client blows everything else out of the water if it's TV in your living room that you're after. It's way better than a console.
Also worth noting - you can use the plex client on your phone/tablet to select a video to start playback on the PHT client connected to your TV, or any other plex client attached to that server.
The microphone you have is a blue snowball non ice version. The Blue yeti is a completely different mic.
I believe they currently use something like the sE2200a which has been discontinued. If I'm not mistaken, Lewis uses the sE2200a II and the same mic was used to record Simon's vocals on Diggy Diggy Hole (based on the live-action video).
I personally use the Badaax UM900 (not to plug, but you can find an example of me using it here) which isn't exactly studio quality, but certainly gets the job done nicely. If you're looking for something that's more entry-level, there's always the Samson CO1U, the Blue Yeti, the Blue Spark Digital, or the Blue Spark.
All of these are very good microphones, and you should be able to find various tests of them on YouTube. Hope this helps. :)
There are actually a few great ones for less than $110!
If the modmic hasn't put you off getting another mic, I'd highly recommend the [V-MODA BoomPro] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/V-MODA-BoomPro-Gaming-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B00BJ17WKK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468155613&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=vmoda+boompro).
After searching through a ton of thread I settled on the [Philips SHP9500s] (https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826138190&amp;cm_re=philip_shp9500-_-26-138-190-_-Product) and a [vmoda boom pro mic] (https://www.amazon.com/V-MODA-BoomPro-Microphone-Gaming-Communication/dp/B00BJ17WKK/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1517508626&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=v+moda+boom+pro). This was a super popular option for those that wanted a solid set of headphones that weren't just for gaming. All around great sound, though not that bass heavy. Build quality is amazing for the price, and versatile since the (very good) mic can be removed. Also, You'll need to jack up the volume and it's a little big for small heads.
No. XLR to 3.5mm really only works for pluging 3.5mm out into a mic preamp.
But you can get a USB mic that will sound better for cheaper than that.
If you ever were to look into another wireless "gaming" headset, I can strongly recommend the [Logitech G930] (http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Gaming-Headset-Surround/dp/B003VANOFY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1405227700&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=g930). I'm sure they don't sound as great as the Seinnheisers but they are wireless, and the lightest headset I've ever worn. Very comfortable for long periods of time, which usually happens when gaming.
But NOTHING can come close to Sennheiser sound.
I'm a big fan of my Logitech, which I got for about $60. It's wireless.
The biggest complaint I hear about it is it's battery life, but the cord that comes with it is a decent length, so if you're not going to be too far from your pc most of the time, it's not a dealbreaker.
http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Gaming-Headset-Surround/dp/B003VANOFY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458140961&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=wireless+gaming+headset
any of you bros on here a gamer? I got these Logitech G930 in a raffle and do not play Pc based games. Whoever messages me first can have them at the cost of shipping. Only downside is the box is kinda fucked because it's been in my closet and moved around a bit. They are brand new other than that.
Also $60 on Amazon.
$10 more will get you the wireless version.
I would go with the highly recommended Blue Yeti microphone. For other podcast tips, check out it this podcast beginners guide.
When you say it has to be USB, are you saying a DAI (Digital Audio Interface) and XLR mic is out of the question? It's definitely more expensive, but the DAI typically connects via USB, and allows you to record straight into the computer. I wouldn't consider this route, however, if you don't plan on doing a lot of recording.
Now if you mean it has to be something akin to the Snowball or Yeti, then I'll give you what I used, and realize you can easily go up from there. I used to use (and still sometimes do) the Logitech G930 Wireless Headset, and it's around 7 years old. I've EQed the headset and paired it with a program call VoiceMeter Banana.
A brief note: I don't recommend, nor I would I be adverse to recommending VMB; it just overrides some sound drives, and can cause a bit of messiness. I can't know how savvy any one person is, so I don't personally recommend programs unless the community as a whole accepts it.
Anyway back to business. This turned my barely audible, tinny sounding voice into what sounded like a real person, and not like I was using soup can communication. The price listed for that headset is way off and not worth more than $40; Logitech discontinued it. You can get a solid USB mic, shock absorber, and quality headphones for a little over $100 or more.
The Snowball and Yeti are two of the most common recommendations I see, but I personally know nothing about them. Sometimes these threads can be buried quickly, so I wanted to jump in, offer what I could, and hopefully people with better knowledge can fill in the rest.
E: I appreciated the humor of the $200 mic being the best. As Bender would say, "Put a 1 and two 0s after that, and we got a deal." (that might be slight hyperbole)
Amazon has the g930 for $70 and it's live already.
For the record, Newegg and Amazon have the cordless version of this (G930) for only $10 more. Original price $159.99. Better deal, in my opinion.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VANOFY
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826104399
Hiya!
I'm a gamer and parront, and can say that loud birdy squawks can sometimes be an issue when I'm trying to communicate. I typically use Discord, but your toolkit might vary depending on what you're using to talk to your team.
I'm currently using this headset, and get few complaints about the birds. Granted, I am always on push-to-talk, so there's no risk of the birdy squawks activating my microphone. If push-to-talk isn't an option, look into your micrphone sensitivity settings (both in the program and in your OS) and reduce them a bit. Hopefully this will make it less likely that little chirps will activate and open the micrphone for all to hear.
Also, give them something else to do with their beaks. Chop, a bit of millet, or a long-lasting foraging toy might help keep them occupied while your SO is gaming.
G930's are wireless headsets, so the cut cable can be replaced with any microUSB cable.
Amazon Item Page
So I bought a new wireless headset from Amazon that had the promo tag on it, (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VANOFY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) however I never got the code. Amazon chat told me a few minutes ago that the item wasn't fulfilled by Amazon so it doesn't count, so I'm hoping senpai notices me :P
My MMO life hasn't been too long, roughly 8 years or so. I'm a huge fan of FF, and played just about every game in the franchise except for XI...so I picked it up and it was so much fun, but really really quiet. I started the game maybe 5-6 years after launch, so there really wasn't anyone to play with, not even considering that I joined right when Abyssea came out, which coincidentally was when much of the population left the game.
When rumors of XIV came out, I was so excited. The biggest thing for me was that I could finally play a FF MMO on the same playing level field as other players, and I could actually do and play content while it was new. I always hated that I was "left behind" in XI, so this was a big deal for me.
I partook in the beta test for 1.0 and was there the day the game launched and continued to stay, even while others I met and played with in the game left. While others griped about the game and how bad it was, I was looking around looking at everyone like they were crazy - because I really loved the game and it was MUCH MUCH better than XI IMO. I also really really liked the changes Yoshi and his team brought to 1.0 even though I understood the game I grew to love was going to come to an end one day.
Yoshi and his team had done a really good job to pull those who really paid attention to the world and lore together (not including all of the special "hidden" surprises as time continued to tick away) so The Calamity felt immersive, and it was pretty special. You could feel the tension in the air while we were all waiting in Mor Dhona for the Empire on that last day....then the servers went down and we were greeted with "the end of an era" trailer - perfect ending. Tears were shed. I was devastated. NO game could ever come close to this experience.
Fast forward a few years and I still play every day, slowly making more progress. I recently got my 240 relic (BRD) on Friday, and my static recently cleared AM6 (for the FIRST TIME after 11 weeks) last Monday, and again on Tuesday, so even though I am a "legacy" player, I'm still celebrating milestones... even almost 5 1/2 years in.
I love this game very much and I have lot of hope for the future. Yoshi P and his team really do seem to listen to what the players want (contradictory to what most would believe) and I believe it shows. I think our best days are ahead of us in this game and I can't wait to see what the expansion has to offer.
Here are the specs:
Type|Item|
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-5930K 3.5GHz Six-Core Processor
CPU Cooler | Corsair H105
Thermal Compound | Prolimatech PK-1 5g Thermal Paste
Motherboard | Asus X99 Deluxe LGA2011-v3 Motherboard
Memory| G.Skill 2400MT/s C15 4x 4gb DDR4
Storage | Crucial MX100 512gb
Storage | Crucial MX100 512gb
Case | Corsair Graphite 760T in White
Power Supply | Corsair HX1000i 80+ Platinum
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 Professional (64-bit)
Monitor | ASUS PB287Q 4k UHD
Keyboard | HHKB Pro 2 white/gray non-printed w/hhkb pro 2 black keycap set
Mouse | Corsair M65 RGB
Mousepad|Mionix Propus 380
Video Card| Gigabyte Windforce OC GTX970
Video Card| Gigabyte Windforce OC GTX970
Headphones| Beyerdynamic DT990 Pro 250Ohm
Headphone stand| Woo Audio HPS-HB
Headphone stand| Just Mobile Aluminum
Microphone|Samson Go Mic
DAC/AMP| Mayflower O2+ODAC w/rear power
Speakers|JBL LSR305 5-inch Two-Way Pair
Fan| 3x Corsair SP120 Quiet edition PWM
Fan| 3x Corsair AF140 Quiet edition
Webcam | Logitech C920
Router|ASUS RT-AC87U AC2400
Modem|Motorola SB6141 DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem
I don't have all my keyboards listed, but the one in the picture is a Corsair K70 RGB with cherry MX reds.
Logitech C 920HD. Amazon link, around 60 dollars today, I got it for more.
I use it, many big Youtubers use it. Clear recordings, the software gives you good controls, it sticks nicely to your screen or on a flat surface. My latest video shows you how it looks, visit my flair if you wanna check it out.
You might still have to buy lighting and be able to edit it in right, but that's with any webcam. :)
I have the Logitech C920, which is a really excellent 1080p webcam with great low-light performance. It used to cost an arm and leg, but I see it's now below 70 USD on Amazon.
Mic quality is very good as well. It has stereo mics, one on each side (used for natural audio and noise cancellation). It's also Skype certified and is (as far as I know) one of very few that actually work with 1080p over Skype.
I can't recommend it enough, especially now that the price has dropped so much since I got it!
http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Webcam-Widescreen-Calling-Recording/dp/B006JH8T3S/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1451697738&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=logitech+c920
First off this is for small business. Second, you get a webcam that does hardware encoding like the Logitech HD Pro Webcam C920, 1080p Widescreen Video Calling and Recording. As for CPU usage in the reviews someone mentioned this
> The C920 does seem to use a lot less CPU than the C910. 640 by 480 on a core 2 Duo HP laptop was up to 80% CPU. With the 920C this dropped to 45% at 1280 by 920 by 30FPS.
That should work perfectly fine on a laptop like this: Inspiron 15 Non-Touch
I think the market for most webcams are video chats, like skype, so you will be pressed to find one without a mic. I understand you reasoning, but what you are looking for is more specialty, it does not fit what most people are looking for. This in turn would actually drive up the cost of a product like this.
TL;DR: Just pick up one of these guys, you can't go wrong: http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Webcam-Widescreen-Calling-Recording/dp/B006JH8T3S/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1427560529&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=webcam
Amazon reviews can be a good indicator. Out of 1,539 reviews (which is a lot for a mechanical keyboard), it gets 4.3 out of 5 stars. 65% are 5 stars and 15% are 4 stars. You may still want to check out the 1-star and 2-star reviews to see if any glaring problems come up. $86.50 seems like a good price for a board with Cherry browns. Link
The keeb in your ebay link is "Manufacturer refurbished: An item that has been professionally restored to working order by a manufacturer or manufacturer-approved vendor. This means the product has been inspected, cleaned, and repaired to meet manufacturer specifications and is in excellent condition. This item may or may not be in the original packaging. See the seller’s listing for full details." $58 seems like a great price if you trust the refurbishing process.
I just got the Philips SHP9500 along with the V-MODA BoomPro. By far the most comfortable headset I have owned. Ear cups are huge and completely surround my ears. The headset is very light weight and does not squeeze at all. I wear them all day when working, and in the evening with gaming. Plus, they are great sounding too.
Amazon Links:
https://www.amazon.com/Philips-SHP9500-Precision-Over-ear-Headphones/dp/B00ENMK1DW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484846026&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=philips+headphones
Looks like the mic is currently out of stock. I got mine on eBay.
https://www.amazon.com/V-MODA-BoomPro-Gaming-Headset-Headphone/dp/B00BJ17WKK/ref=pd_bxgy_23_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00BJ17WKK&amp;pd_rd_r=E5NE128ZPRX3KS4F4QYD&amp;pd_rd_w=VLjAz&amp;pd_rd_wg=dKgCd&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=E5NE128ZPRX3KS4F4QYD
It's really, really easy to get started. Don't get me wrong, there is definitely a high level of production value that you can achieve (later on if you want to, or maybe never), but starting off is quite a simple thing.
All you really need is a laptop, a webcam, and decent internet... and maybe a soft lamp. It's best to have an ethernet cable running to your router if you can, for faster speeds than wifi. You can get a pretty cheap webcam that does a decent job, or shell out a little more and get something a little better. The best (or at least most popular) webcam for camgirls I have found is this one. Inbuilt laptop webcams might do the trick, but use your judgement on whether it looks good enough or not. Would you watch something of the quality you're producing?
There is sooo much information on ambercutie forums, but a trap that I fell into early on is feeling like you need expensive lighting, the best webcam, an amazing mic and so on when you really dont.
On the subject of lighting, it really makes a difference to be well lit, but you don't need photography-standard umbrella lights. I have two soft lamps a little bit behind my laptop so I'm lit from two angles, and it works really well. You just want to make sure they're soft and you're not casting yourself into shadow on one side, and MOST IMPORTANTLY not solely lit from above, like from a ceiling light. That is some unflattering shit.
I really like Myfreecams.com because it's easy to use, high traffic, the token conversion is easy to understand, the payment methods are easy and reliable, and probably least importantly is that there seems to be fewer rules regarding what you can and can't do (which makes it a little less stressful). Have a look at the aforementioned forum for advice regarding choosing a site. Verification can sometimes be a pain but if you have a driver's licence and a scanner you'll probably have a really easy time.
This is a loooot of information to take in all at once, I know. Even though I could go on and on for ages, like I said before, keep it simple to start with and don't stress yourself out with the nitty gritty - you might get so stressed you don't want to even begin. Bear in mind, this is all about the SOLID parts of camming, the technical aspects. The mental game is a whole other topic entirely, and I would be happy to answer more questions if you're asking.
Good luck! xx
If you have money to spend, I'd use a camera like This along with an adjustable arm like this one and attach the arm to something high up and look down. I used a similar setup for playtesting other card games and had a meterstick taped down on top of a bookshelf, attached the camera arm to that, and the camera directly above the playmat. In total will cost about 60 bucks but is as easy as it gets if you have to move it somewhere else.
If you already have a camera and a tripod, you may be able to secure that in a similar fashion to a nearby bookshelf though I dont know if you can get a perfect top down like you could with an adjustable arm as linked above.
Best of luck!
Hey Crimson! I have a pretty good amount of experience with camera work for my gaming videos!
I'm not sure what your budget looks like, so I'll start with the cheapest solutions first.
I would suggest the most easily obtainable camera for live action stuff would be just to simply use your smart phone! For example, the iPhone camera shoots with a Sony CMOS sensor in full HD! Just make sure you stabilize it on a tripod or flat surface because the auto image stabilizer is pretty terrible at times. Secondly, if you do choose this option, I would highly recommend using a different audio source. Smart phones traditionally don't always have the best audio recorders on board.
A web cam is probably your second best solution! Full HD cams can run about 50-100 bucks, but they usually get the job done. Though again, with all these recommendations, I'd suggest you use an alternative microphone for audio.
If your not willing to use cheaper alternatives like a smart phone or a webcam, then I think your best bet would be the GoPro. These products are massively popular for a reason; they can provide BEAUTIFUL footage if used correctly. You can probably find one of these bad boys USED for under 200 on craigslist. For the relatively small price tag, this is one of the best all purpose cameras on the market.
Finally, if you have a decent budget at your disposal, I'd suggest the T3i. If you only plan on using this camera for rare occasions, then I'd advise against purchasing it. However, if your hoping your channel would rely heavily on live action content, then this is it. This is your solution! It might end up running you a little over 500 bucks, but this is the camera a majority of youtube creators have been using. There is a slight learning curve, but when you get the hang of it, your videos will look fantastic.
Like I said though, never use the on board audio recorders these solutions provide for you. Buy a separate microphone if quality is a big concern for you in your videos!
I have used the following setups within the last year, ranked in order of preference:
To expand a little bit on what ImKrimzen is getting at...
This community is really, really hardcore about headphones. I say this in an affectionate but matter-of-fact way: we are a bunch of elitists who mostly look down our noses at products like the one you're asking about. Most gamers here prefer to use an awesome pair of headphones with a regular 3.5mm audio hookup, and then attach something like this mic to it. This tends to give you better value for your money than buying an overpriced gaming headset. Now, playing on console is a little more complicated...I've never even used a mic when console gaming, but if you can find a way to set that up via a bluetooth mic or something, then you can always just use the PS4 controller's headphone jack to plug in a regular pair of headphones and then go to town. (Or alternatively, your TV's aux out if it has one, or optical digital out through a DAC.) Here are a couple of relatively inexpensive headphones that have an absolutely stellar reputation around here for gaming. (And will also bring your movies and music to another level.)
Less expensive
More expensive
Most expensive (or actually not, because they're on sale)
Edit: Oh, just one important thing to note: this is /r/headphones 101, but since you're new, I'm just going to assume you may not realize that all those options I linked are open-back headphones, which means that they do not isolate sound well and they leak your sound out. In other words, other people around you can hear your stuff and you can probably hear noises in your environment, so if you need sound isolation, get a closed-back pair like this. But the advantage of open-back is that you generally get better-quality sound for your dollar, and the sound stage is always better, meaning the locations of sounds in your 3D headspace are very detailed and precise. This is really awesome for immersive gaming and movie-watching, so people love open-back headphones for those uses.
The VModa BoomPro if the headphones have a removable 3.mm cable. Otherwise from my research/experience this is definitely the best.
Just buy a V-Moda BoomPro and use it with your Sony headphones.
Here I have my current setup. The headphones are my Beyerdynamic Custom Studios, the DAC is an Audioengine D3, and the AMP is a Fiio A3 Portable Amp. The entire setup cost me $268, but as of now I believe the Custom Studios are discontinued, so you could replace the headphones with some alternatives in that price range (Audio Technica M40x/M50x or Philips SHP9500.) Anyways, here’s a review for everything.
Beyerdynamic Custom Studio (80 ohm)
Used to be $163, now they are [$250] (https://www.guitarcenter.com/Beyerdynamic/Custom-STUDIO-Headphones-1392652270585.gc)
I bought these headphones around July of 2017 as my first pair of “real” headphones. Initially, I was disappointed, but this was only because I was not used to the sound of these headphones at the time. After about a month of listening to them, I went back to compare them to some old Apple Earbuds and at first, I couldn’t believe the difference. Everything about these headphones was amazing. There’s a great amount of detail in them, the imaging is absolutely amazing, but soundstage is very narrow due to them being closed back headphones. As closed back headphones, they do a fantastic job of not allowing sound to leak about and making sure outside noise stays outside as long as the volume is higher. I use these at the library in my school when I write papers and never get complaints. I’ve tested them before by placing them on my friends’ heads and playing music at a loud volume, but nothing leaks out.
I found the comfort to be alright, but the fault was due to the velour. I really do not like velour as I find it to be very itchy, however, many other people praise the earpads, so it just comes down to preference. I instead replaced the pads with some [Brainwavs HM5 Sheepskin earpads] ( https://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Sheepskin-Leather-Memory-Earpad/dp/B01J53KM32) and fell in love with the comfort. The pads increased bass a little and made them incredibly comfortable. I use a [V-Moda Boom Pro] ( https://www.amazon.com/V-MODA-BoomPro-Microphone-Gaming-Communication/dp/B00BJ17WKK/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524357476&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=vmoda+boompro&amp;dpID=41WfbQw%252Bp8L&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch) with it when I game and these never become uncomfortable, even after playing for hours on end. The clamp on these is very strong, but I like it that way as it prevents them from falling off my head.
The unique thing about these headphones is that it has bass sliders on each cup, which allows you to adjust the bass from (Low bass, neutral, vibrant bass, and max bass.) I tend to keep it on neutral and the bass there is more than enough for me (and I love bass.) I use these for just about everything, including gaming and I never have any issues. I wear glasses and these are fine for anyone who may wear glasses.
After trying out different headphones at CanJam this year, I now know where these headphones can improve, but these still manage to keep up with everything else above its price range. You can run these off a phone and get some good volume, but I like music loud, so I use them with an amp at all times. Overall, I’m glad these are my first pair and I plan on keeping them as my closed back pair of headphones after I move on to more expensive headphones.
Audioengine D3 DAC+AMP
[$45 Refurbrished] (https://audioengineusa.com/shop/factory-refurbished/d3-24-bit-dacheadphone-amp-2/)
I bought the Audioengine D3 as the last piece of the puzzle in terms of headphones, amps, and dacs. It is a USB DAC that comes with a ¼ inch adapter and a sleeve to carry it. This is actually what motivated me to listen to music on my laptop as I used to listen to music on my phone. I really have no complaints about it. When it released, it was priced at $200 and was one of the few USB DACs that could compete with the Dragonfly DACs, and from what I’ve read online, a lot of reviewers actually prefer the D3. I saw it on Massdrop a month back for $70ish and wanted it, but I wanted to read reviews about it first. That’s where I found that you can get it for $45 straight out of their website with free shipping included. There really is no reason to look for another DAC when this one is available for such a steal. There is no kind of sound when music is not playing and it is driverless, meaning you can just plug it in to your computer and it’s ready to go. One thing to note is that it gets really hot, but it isn’t a problem, so long as you keep your fingers off of it. I felt like I noticed an improvement in songs, but it could just be a placebo (A B test your gear and see if you can notice a difference.) However, I really like having it around and I don’t listen to anything on my laptop without it.
Fiio A3 AMP
[$59.99] (https://www.amazon.com/A3-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00Z9BIODA)
I bought the Fiio A3 when I bought my headphones because I read that an amp was almost required for anything at 80 ohms and higher. Since then, I’ve loved this little beast of an amp. It has a low and high gain switch to control volume (I keep it on high gain when connected to my phone and low gain when connected to the D3.) It also has a bass boost switch which I really like when I feel like being basshead (The bass boost here + max bass setting on the Custom Studios = Madness.) It has a life of about 16 hours before needing to recharge and it has a blue led that blinks when it needs to charge. It makes headphones very loud very fast. It is also built like a tank. I tried carrying it around in my pocket when I walked on campus and it slipped out. It only took a cosmetic hit, but in terms of functionality, it is untouched.
The only reason I still use it is because I like being able to control audio through a knob as opposed to a digital slider. The only annoying thing about it is that it has a hissing noise when the knob is turned up without any music playing, but when music starts to play, the hiss disappears. Overall, I absolutely recommend this amp if you want something to start with as it will do nothing but impress you every time.
This is my setup and being a broke college kid, I could not be happier. In terms of the things that this sub shows off, I find this to be a very budget friendly setup. Even when I upgrade everything, I still plan on keeping it as I do not want to forget where I started in terms of this hobby. For anyone that may be wanting to jump into the world of audio, I absolutely recommend these products as places to start. I’ve provided straight links for anyone that may want to check out the products.
When I first got the HD598's from the first time it was $99, I originally got the Zalman clip mic everybody recommended. I thought it was a terrible little mic. Like a lot of cheap mics, it rather picked up too little or too much. Couldn't really get a good sound from the way it clips in.
I eventually bought the Modmic and thought it was great. Its possible its a similar quality mic, but you're basically paying for the placement of that mic, which made it worth more. Still way overpriced for what it was. But I thought it did its job well, unlike the the Zalman clip mic.
Also, I've seen this one recommended on reddit as a modmic alternative
V-MODA-BoomPro
Don't know what it costs in Europe though... It also may require adapters depending on the size jack. But its another option. No experience with it myself.
Now out of curiosity, why not get the Takstar 82 and then a vmoda boompro? Sure it'll be a little more expensive but you get the aluminum case of the Takstar and you can keep the base vents. I guess Xbox compatibility?
Takstar 82: https://www.amazon.ca/Headphone-Over-ear-Recording-Monitoring-Appreciation/dp/B078NTRQR8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549318144&sr=8-3&keywords=takstar%2B82&th=1
Vmoda BoomPro: https://www.amazon.ca/V-MODA-BoomPro-Microphone-Gaming-Communication/dp/B00BJ17WKK/ref=pd_sbs_147_1/132-2457449-1014840?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00BJ17WKK&pd_rd_r=647a880a-28c9-11e9-950e-c9e76c8cf3b3&pd_rd_w=qhERM&pd_rd_wg=7RaEg&pf_rd_p=5dcda75b-8643-4da3-9bb1-5c0233790500&pf_rd_r=D37PD0T8M7T6R27RW4N5&psc=1&refRID=D37PD0T8M7T6R27RW4N5
Edit: The Takstar 82 doesn't have tax, so it's a flat $99.99 for the silver version.
you don't necessarily need a gaming headset. In fact you'll probably get more bang for your buck avoiding headsets and buying a separate mic from your headphones. Check out this Zeos guide: https://www.reddit.com/r/Zeos/comments/3tu9gl/guide_headphones_gaming/
This can turn a good headphones into a headset with mic: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BJ17WKK/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=sl1&amp;tag=wwwpuresimula-20&amp;linkId=0f30921a5b459fdc711f13f599128198
Personally just use a this clip mic since I sit close to my machine and don't need a long cord: http://www.amazon.com/Sony-ECMCS3-Omnidirectional-Stereo-Microphone/dp/B0058MJX4O/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1434311220&amp;sr=8-1-spell&amp;keywords=sony+microphonwe&amp;linkCode=sl1&amp;tag=wwwpuresimula-20&amp;linkId=SZWGUFUWKW3XEXJ3
I can't imagine anyone making a fake while Logitech is still making them & selling them for only $27 on Amazon US, which is where the majority of the sales are.
The motivation for making a counterfeit would be either if Logitech stops making them i.e. this one which used to go for $60 but is selling for 10x that now that it's been discontinued, or if they were going to make super-cheap knock-offs that sells for $10.
I swear by these. It made all the difference for me. I can only use the thumb ball ones as the others with the middle ball cause tendon strain. I own 3 of them. One for work, one for main PC, and another for the living room. They also make great couch mice as they don't have to move.
http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-910-001799-M570-Wireless-Trackball/dp/B0043T7FXE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1427144162&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=logitech+trackball
It's a Logitech K400. Perfect for the couch!
My experience with the Steam Link:
It works decently after upgrading from my old WRT54g router (which was unplayable) to a TP-LINK Archer C9.
Although when I say "decently", I'm not one who freaks out if FPS drops to 59 at 1920x1080, or even has to play at that resolution. It's playable. Sometimes it slows down. You can stream Netflix from your browser, sometimes the video goes into slow motion during scenes that have more "action", i.e. a woman jogging... (I haven't even watched something like Transformers...) depending on your Stream setting of Fast, Balanced, Beautiful.
It's nice when it works, most of the time. Sometimes it still drops the connection though, or the window loses focus, or you have to log in to Windows, and you have to physically go to the computer and figure it out, which can be frustrating.
Most of the time I've had to go over physically was because Steam crashed and I had to restart Steam. Hopefully these are bugs they'll be working out as it's still a relatively new device? Between this and the controller, they seem to get regular updates. And things HAVE been getting fixed and enhanced. But apparently it can't start Steam up on it's own over the network, or let you log in to Windows.
It worked plug & play with my Logitech Wireless Touch Keyboard K400 (plugging the little Logitech wireless receiver)
a logitech k400 i picked up at microcenter - Link
You should definitely give it a shot, and if it doesn't work for you, you can always go back to cable. I was sick of paying around $150/mo for a cable/phone/internet bundle, so I cut the cord when I moved into a new apartment around a year ago, zero regrets. I now pay $50/mo for 15Mpbs internet, and it's been great.
I got this computer: Dell Zino HD (looks like it's discontinued)
a wireless keyboard: Logitech Wireless Touch Keyboard K400
and this HD antenna: RCA ANT1450BM
That's it! I'm going HDMI from the computer to TV to stream anything from Netflix, Amazon, Hulu, anime sites, whatever you want. You're not limited to services provided through Boxee or Roku type devices. The HD antenna gets used once in a while for live stuff or PBS, and I was shocked by how good it looked. Positioning can be a bit tricky, but I swear the image looks better than my previous cable connection.
For current shows like Breaking Bad and Mad Men, Amazon sells season passes for a slightly discounted unit rate, and the shows are available the day after airing.
It was a little scary at first, but now I can't imagine going back to that time and money pit. I feel more in control of what I watch, and I seriously feel mentally cleaner. Give it a try if you're considering it, and feel free to let me know if you have any questions!
There's Mouse Toggle. It adds mouse-like functionality to the stock remote. It works ok if you have no other mouse.
After the stock remote, my favorite is Remote Mouse for Fire TV, followed by the Logitech K400 (when it's $20).
It looks like the Logitech K400.
I've got this and it works amazingly.
I'm a big fan of the Blue Yeti - one of the best microphones I've ever used. It's a little pricey, but you'll never have to buy another.
If you wanted something a little easier on your wallet, check out the Blue Snowball (my preference), or any studio-condenser microphone. For most, you'll have to be pretty close to the mic to avoid picking up any background noise, or developing white noise as you move further away. The Yeti cancels most of that out, which is why it's my preference. But, it's your budget homie!
I might also recomend the Trust MC-1200. It's far from the best quality, but it works pretty good for Skype. The cheapest of the three, you have an option for your preference. Gimmie 10 mins and I'll link you to voice samples on YouTube of them all.
SAMPLE LINKS:
Blue Yeti - My preference. Whole video is recorded with the microphone.
Blue Snowball - Decent, best I've found for average price. Dude forgot to turn the damn background music off when recording, but you can still hear his voice well.
Trust MC-1200 - Best for the price. Not a lot of background noise, but the audio is far from "good" quality.
A major thing that instantly hit me was the recording quality. You sound a little bit 'tinny'. I'm guessing you're using your webcam for that, too?
I'd look into investing in a decent microphone set up. I've been using the Blue Yeti for years now and it's still going strong.
I know that it's something that you're probably aware of, but presentation is always gonna be key. It doesn't matter if you're hosting is perfect if people aren't completely listening to what you're saying because they're too busy thinking about how you sound bad.
Hope it helps!
http://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Zm-Mic1-Sensitivity-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B00029MTMQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1342639959&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=zalman+zm-mic1
Best clip-on mic money can buy and it's only $8 dollars. (can be found on other sites for even cheaper)
Depending on your intended use, I'd suggest the CAL!, Sony MDR-V6, or Audio Technica ATH AD700 with a Zalman clip-on mic.
With any of these headphones plus the mic, you will get much higher sound quality than any headset in the price range.
Please dont buy any Headset get yourself a nice pair of Headphones and a small mic.
http://www.amazon.de/Beyerdynamic-AMS-DT-990-PRO-250-DT-990-Pro-Headphones/dp/B0011UB9CQ/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1382078720&amp;sr=1-2-catcorr&amp;keywords=beyerdynamic+dt+990
http://www.amazon.de/Zalman-ZM-MIC1-Mikrofon-mit-Mikro-Clip/dp/B00029MTMQ/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1382078697&amp;sr=1-1-catcorr&amp;keywords=anklipp+mikrofon
I bought that setup with a nice Soundcard only for Battlefield 4 and omg i was surprised how good the sound is.
I don't know how to attach that mic, but if all you need is a microphone you can try this doohickie: http://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Zm-Mic1-Sensitivity-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B00029MTMQ
My friend has one and uses it with his AD700 for gaming. He is very happy with it!
If you're looking for something that will primarily be used for listening to music, I'd get a nice pair of headphones and something like this attachable mic. If you're looking for a headset that will also be used for music occasionally, probably just get something in your price range by a reputable brand (Audio Technica, Sennheiser, etc). We'll need a budget before making any actual recommendations though.
If you are going to use a vacuum use one that is designed for electronics like this one. A standard household vacuum created a lot of static electricity when used.
I haven't used it to clean my keyboards, but I use one of these to clean my computer.
http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW
Best $50 I ever spent. Blowing dust out of a case or crumbs out of a keyboard has never been this much fun, and it pretty much pays for itself within a year.
Lol, but compressed air does do the trick. The thing is compressed is is expensive for what it is, and only lasts so long. I go through them pretty fast, and have easily gone through $100+ of them. This ESD Blower is only $60 http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1421905552&amp;sr=1-1-catcorr&amp;keywords=Metro+ED-500ESD#customerReviews
http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1380420041&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ed-500
This was from ~5 months ago. This was from about ~6-7 months ago.
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When you clean a lot, the cleaning becomes easier. I wrote a whole thing about it here. But to add to this, every month or two, I use the brush attachment I was talking about. I take all my components (except my CPU and case fans) out and I use the brush+air to get inside the PCI slots and ram slots and around all the heat sinks. Like I said, cleaning more often makes the cleaning process in general easier.
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This isn't the one I bought, but it has really good reviews on Amazon, and I have seen a couple guys over at PCMR recommending it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001J4ZOAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3TjrybTDF87S2
I've been eyeing this, but can't decide if I'd have enough uses...
Blow instead of suck. Everyone has a vacuum, but there's still a big demand for those compressed gas "duster" cans. It's because it's always better and safer to take the computer outside and blast the dust away. They usually come with a small diameter straw to direct the air into small spaces. I've also used an electric "duster" that's highly rated on Amazon.
2nd this, here's one a bit cheaper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001J4ZOAW/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_1-pVCbHCFPXTP
DataVac
Costs about 5 cans of compressed air, doesn't get ice cold and stop working, powerful, safe.....
I use a similar one by the same company I think. I'll never go back to compressed air. http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW
For the cost of 3 cans of air, you can get a powered air blower which is much stronger, can put out a constant stream, and doesn't leave any residue on your electronics.
Be careful with this. Don't let the vacuum touch any components. The dust rubbing against the plastic vacuum hose creates static. I killed a fairly new HD3650 back in the day by accidentally touching the vacuum to the back of the card. Saw the spark gap and I knew it was all over. I have a case with air filters now, so dust isn't a problem. I used to only use canned air, but I'm about ready to splurge on this thing for all my other electronics.
Se o post for somente por causa do frete ridículo, pode parar de ler aqui.
Mas, se alguém também estiver interessado em algo além de ar comprimido, uns anos atrás comprei isso - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001J4ZOAW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 -
https://www.amazon.com/d/Leaf-Blower-Parts-Vacuum-Accessories/Metro-ED500-DataVac-500-Watt-Electric/B001J4ZOAWI use one of these bad boys to clean all of my equipment and have yet to find something better. Has a lot of power behind it. I used to use canned air but realized how fast those little cans add up in price.
I do it every 3 to 6 months typically. Bought a data vac and never looked back at canned air again. It's basically a reverse vacuum, gets in nooks and crannies that canned air could only dream of.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001J4ZOAW/
Definitely buy the Klipsch ProMedia speakers. Great sound, affordable, and THX certified if that means anything to you.
http://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-ProMedia-Certified-Computer-Speaker/dp/B000062VUO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408206471&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=klipsch+promedia+2.1
If you want a convenient package, aren't an "audiophile" and the whole budget is $100 - i'd recommend the Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 setup. I've had mine for over three years, my buddy's had a set for over 8 years. Great performance for a small package and at a great price.
May be slightly out of your stated range, but you could probably find them cheaper, but Klipsch kicks ass: http://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-ProMedia-Certified-Computer-Speaker/dp/B000062VUO
These are $150 but trust me when I say these Klipsch ProMedia's are some of if not thee best desktop speakers for the money.
This eBay store (excellent feedback) has a complete set (used though) for about $75.
And here are two listing for NEW sets on eBay that fall between $100 and $120. Set 1 and Set 2
http://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-ProMedia-Certified-Computer-Speaker/dp/B000062VUO
I bought these a few years ago and they are still running strong. Sound quality is excellent for the price, though I now use them as TV speakers.
Had these for the past 10 years or so, still rocking strong.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000062VUO
The only odd thing about them is that they don't have a power switch. They're always on.
Normal headphones and a separate mic:
If you know anyone who has a soldering iron and can get to the wires without breaking the plastic, it's not too hard to solder stuff like this.
Easier solution, get a clip on mic
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00029MTMQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zGSsDbSZ63XDC
http://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Zm-Mic1-Sensitivity-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B00029MTMQ
clip theses to your V-Modas.
EDIT: Oh wait you want a USB headset.
Get the cheapest you're willing to afford 'cuz they all sound like shite.
http://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Microphone-Zm-Mic1-Sensitivity-Headphone/dp/B00029MTMQ
I've heard nothing but good reviews on the Zalman zm-mic1 even though it looks and costs nothing like quality. I've also heard several sound samples of it and it does backup the reviews. Then it's just up to finding a good pair of headphones. I'm currently in the market for headphones and a mic aswell but I have a bit of a bigger budget. A lot of people suggest the Audio Technica AD700's but I've seen mixed reviews especially when it comes to the headphones fitting properly. If you decide to go for a regular pc headset where the mic and headphones are attached I suggest you steer clear from the Razer Carcharias, it's what I currently have and the audio leaks into the microphone so people on the other end can hear what I'm listening to at low volume. A friend of mine recently go the Corsair HS1 and it sounds really good according to him, but he hasn't been able to use it's mic yet.(his soundcard is a bit fucky) I don't think you can get a really definite answer to what headphone/mic combo is the best because everyone has their own taste in sound. Just try to avoid any phones that have "gamer" plastered all over the box because they generally won't be good for anything OTHER than games.
As a side note, in the end of my hunt for a good pair I'll be going with the aforementioned Zalman zm-mic1 and a pair of AKG K240 MKII's...one major attracting point for these headphones for me is that the cable is modular so when I inevitably break it (I have bad luck with headphone cables) I can just swap to the 2nd that's in the box.
I currently use this combo:
http://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-HD555-Professional-Headphones-Channeling/dp/B0001FTVDQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1323130988&amp;sr=8-6
http://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Zm-Mic1-Sensitivity-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B00029MTMQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1323130978&amp;sr=8-2
I have had plenty of headsets over the years, and this one has been my best purchase. My friends on skype tell me the voice quality is fine.
You are also going to get way better sound quality through headphones rather than a headset.
I've heard good things about this mic: http://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Microphone-Zm-Mic1-Sensitivity-Headphone/dp/B00029MTMQ
http://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Zm-Mic1-Sensitivity-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B00029MTMQ
It is under $10. So far no one has complained about it when I am on vent so I guess its not bad?
This is a horrible head set. The sound quality is awful, and there's a constant hiss from the USB amplifier. On max bass boost, the bass is muddy and intrudes on the other sound ranges; on minimum bass boost, the sound feels empty and tinny. There's no good middle ground that I found. The soundstage is also horrible, which makes it far from ideal for gaming as you can't really perceive positional audio well.
You will honestly get much better sound quality out of the Koss KSC75 with a Zalman Mic attached, for even a few bucks cheaper.
Get a ModMic or a Zm-Mic1 (build a micarms from lego or something else), put it on your hi-fi headphones and you've beaten 95% of headsets on the market in quality for same price or less
Unfortunately most gaming headsets are quite overpriced, a popular option without spending a lot is this mic that clips onto normal headphone wires ($8) maybe get that and save up for a better headset or some good headphones and a modmic.
For the internet if you have to use wireless get the internal card, if you can run an ethernet cable do that and consider a cheap usb adapter for interim.
http://www.amazon.com/Razer-Carcharias-Gaming-Headset-Black/dp/B001PTH0VW/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1301801164&amp;sr=8-7
i really like those for purely gaming. theyre comfy so you can wear them forever. they have decent positional sound and good sound quality and the microphone is good too.
http://www.amazon.com/Technica-ATH-AD700-Open-air-Audiophile-Headphones/dp/B000CMS0XU
http://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Microphone-Zm-Mic1-Sensitivity-Headphone/dp/B00029MTMQ/ref=pd_bxgy_e_text_b
the best headphones money can buy for a decent price plus a highly flexible/mobile/good microphone to just clip on when you need it.
Here is my recommendation:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | $169.99 @ Microcenter
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | $29.98 @ Outlet PC
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD3H ATX LGA1155 Motherboard | $104.99 @ Microcenter
Memory | Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $59.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung 840 Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Disk | $164.99 @ NCIX US
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $69.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | PowerColor Radeon HD 7870 XT 2GB Video Card | $219.99 @ NCIX US
Wireless Network Adapter | Rosewill RNX-N600UBE 802.11a/b/g/n USB 2.0 Wi-Fi Adapter | $25.22 @ Amazon
Case | Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case | $49.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | XFX 550W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply | $54.99 @ NCIX US
Optical Drive | Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer | $14.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8 (OEM) (64-bit) | $89.98 @ Outlet PC
Keyboard | Microsoft SIDEWINDER X4 Wired Gaming Keyboard | $39.99 @ Newegg
Other| Audio Technica ATH-AD700 Headphones | $99.95 @ Amazon
Other| Zalman Zm-Mic1 Microphone| $8.48 @ Amazon
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. | $1203.51
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-05-21 23:53 EDT-0400 |
I think this build falls right in the sweet spot for performance vs. price. The CPU/Mobo is a combo at Microcenter, you'll have to add around $20 for tax. A note on the headphones, these are the best headphones for gaming for the price. I strongly recommend against buying any name-brand headset, you will overpay and get a product that doesn't sound as good. Let me know if you have any questions.
I have this https://www.amazon.com/Metro-ED500-DataVac-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW totally awesome. I lost the attachments though. Worth buying them again or keep the distance?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001J4ZOAW
Non mobile link.
I would avoid it. They make special air compressors for electronics that filter out moisture.
http://www.amazon.com/Metro-ED500-DataVac-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW?ie=UTF8&amp;keywords=electronics%20air%20compressor&amp;qid=1464283880&amp;ref_=sr_1_1&amp;sr=8-1
is what you want.
I stopped using compressed air and bought one of these bad boys.
http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1370149820&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=dust+pc
Quickly justified the price considering how much I was spending on compressed air. Its way more powerful than a can of air too. Also useful for other stuff around the house, since I dont have to worry about wasting my cans of air.
Instead of buying compressed air buy this air blower. It will save money in the long run.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001J4ZOAW
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Electric-Computer-Duster-lbs-White/dp/B001J4ZOAW/
I'll probably stick to the compressed air.
I bought this prior to cleaning. https://www.amazon.com/Metro-ED500-DataVac-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW
http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW
This thing is absolutely amazing. I haven't bought a compressed air can for years. Some of the benefits include:
I would buy another in a second if mine ever breaks down.
If you're not worried about electrostatic get this Metro Vacuum which isnt actually a vacuum
If you are: Here or here
The vac is pretty much like a can of compressed air but without the $10/can price tag. Also you dont need to worry about asshole friends turning it upside down and spraying you.
Can you remove the end piece? That just looks like an adapter of sorts. If you can then all you need is an enclosure such as this.
I got this.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1
You just need a USB a to c cable and it'll function the same.
If you're worried about speed, the transfer rate of that is around 500 Mbps on the T5. This one goes up to 5 Gbps if you use a USB 3 cable. It all depends on how fast your SSD is. Realistically any storage drive SSD will be practically just as fast
I bought this one recently. Its a little expensive, but its an official one made for xbox one by seagate, so decided to spend the extra money to get it as i had gift cards i needed to use anyway.
If you want one thats much cheaper that should work just as good, get this one:
Drive: https://www.amazon.com/Silicon-Power-Performance-Internal-SP256GBSS3A55S25/dp/B075RJS55D/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1548282759&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=ssd+256
Case: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1548283038&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=ssd+enclosure
SSD and Enclosure
Lets break it down. Most people are getting external ssd's. Why because it adds on to the memory without removing existing storage. USB 3.0 provides enough throughput for an ssd. But heres the deal, ssds connect through sata ports. So to protect and connect an ssd to an xbox, you need a sata 3 to usb 3.0 connector.
Super important, depending on your xbox, the internal connection could be sata 2. If you have an og xbox it is sata 2 inside. one x and xbox one s have sata 3. Therefore a ssd will do nothing for speed increase if you do an internal one on an original xbox one. You need to connect via usb 3.0 externally to see performance gains.
So buy a decent solid state with at least 240gb, the actual minimum spec. And spend 10 bucks on a sata 3 to usb enclosure. https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=sr_1_4/135-4131140-8815732?ie=UTF8&qid=1525800622&sr=8-4&keywords=usb+3+external+hard+drive+enclosure
Silicon Power 256GB SSD 3D NAND With R/W Up To 550/450MB/s A55 SLC Cache Performance Boost SATA III 2.5" 7mm (0.28") Internal Solid State Drive (SP256GBSS3A55S25) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RJS55D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_B806AbHMAB1AP
Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized For SSD, Support UASP SATA III] Black (EC-UASP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
This is the exact setup I just bought for my 1TB Xbox One. PUBG is amazing as well as I found a massive improvment in Tera Online. I also just needed more space.
Linked is what i got about a month ago. Works fine, and seemed reasonably priced when I researched SSDs.
Samsung 860 EVO 250GB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E250B/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07864WMK8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized For SSD, Support UASP SATA III] Black (EC-UASP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
yeah usb 3.0, came with the case I bought.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OAJ412U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
What this guy said, my brother bought this ssd and enclosure, he loads in faster than me now and I'm playing on the X.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071KGRXRH/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OJ3UJ2S
SSD $59.50
Enclosure $8.99
I have this setup myself on original xbox, works great.
I would suggest getting a pair of headphones and https://www.amazon.com/Antlion-Audio-ModMic-Attachable-Microphone/dp/B00R98JVVU/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474652762&amp;sr=8-11&amp;keywords=hd668b
This is about as good as you can get for under $100. Warning: it’s big and might be loose if you have a small head. It’s also open-back, so it doesn’t block out outside sound.
https://www.amazon.com/Philips-SHP9500S-Precision-Over-ear-Headphones/dp/B00ENMK1DW.
You can pair it with this.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BJ17WKK/ref=pd_aw_lpo_23_lp_img_3?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=R2PXH050N0CWCBQQ9SAD.
This has been my setup for close to two years on Xbox, so I’m not sure how it would translate to PS4. I use the Dolby Atmos app, but idk what the PS4 alternative is.
Here's a few options. Depending on where you are in the world some might be more feasible than others. I'm talking from a UK perspective, YMMV.
So that's what I recommend. Any option you pick here will theoretically last you a great many years, if not a lifetime, and will outperform any gaming headset. This is because manufacturers of these headsets will spend a tiny amount of cash on the components and a large amount of cash on marketing them, meaning when you buy a gaming headset you're really paying for them to sell it to you. Stuff like I've listed above is all word of mouth; passes the savings onto the consumer who gets a quality product at a good price.
They're all open backed, meaning they leak sound out and allow outside sound in; the benefit of this is that you get a wider soundstage, which in regard to gaming essentially means better 3D positioning. You can pick out things like footsteps and locate where they're coming from with a great degree of ease.
HD598: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sennheiser-HD-598SR-Over-Ear-Headphone-Black/dp/B06WLGRYSF/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521973971&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=HD+598
Fidelio X2: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Philips-X2-Headphones-Over-Ear-Cushions-Black/dp/B00MRUPSHQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521974003&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Fidelio+x2
Phillips SHP9500/00: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Philips-SHP9500-00-Headphone/dp/B00ENMK1DW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521974021&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=shp9500
Audio Technica AD700X: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Audio-Technica-ATH-AD700X-backed-Hi-Fi-headphones/dp/B009S332TQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521974053&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ad700x
Audio Technica ADG1X: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Audio-Technica-ATH-ADG1X-High-Fidelity-Open-Air-Headset/dp/B01AYZZP5U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521973470&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=audio+technica+headset
V-Moda Boompro: https://www.amazon.co.uk/V-MODA-BoomPro-Microphone-Gaming-Communication/dp/B00BJ17WKK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521974126&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=v-moda+boompro
Antlion ModMic: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Antlion-Audio-ModMic-Attachable-Microphone-Uni-Directional-Muteless/dp/B00R98O6R4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521974091&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=antlion+modmic
Alternatively, if he already has decent non-gaming headphones that he finds comfortable, you could get him the BoomPro mic by V-MODA. It will transform any headphones into gaming headphones for about $30.
I hate the suction cup feeling too, I ended up getting a philips SHP9500 after reading a bunch about it on reddit a year ago. Its not a good solution if you are worried about other people hearing what you are listening to as they can be heard across a bedroom fairly easy, by design of course, with little holes in the pieces that cover the ear. This also means you can hear your surroundings too, works great for me as I can talk to people IRL while wearing them.
The pads are soft and the headband is on the looser side so it won't squeeze your skull. I do find that sometimes I don't hear sounds from far away in games like distant footsteps as good as the traditional suction cup feeling earphones but its worth the trade off for me because my ears don't hurt even after a full day of gaming, in 20 years of wearing headphones I haven't had a more comfortable set.
It doesn't come with a mic, I just use a $10 desk mic I've had for 2 years and am going to get a moda mic that just plugs into the headset cord eventually.
> SanDisk 200GB
boop
How does this differ from this SanDisk 200gb MicroSD available since March 2015?
Article Jun 29, 2015.. oh.
200gb is $49.99.
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-200GB-Micro-SDSDQUAN-200G-G4A/dp/B00V62XBQQ
Amazon link. Note that 128 GB is the sweet spot for GBs/dollar.
Or get 2 x 200 GB for $140
Mate you copy and pasted the wrong information :
That information is for:
>CrystalDiskMark 3.0 - PNY U3 Turbo Performance 32GB High Speed MicroSDHC - P-SDU32GU390G-GE
Sequential Read : 90.912 MB/s
Sequential Write : 54.702 MB/s
Speed benchmark for the 200gb sandisk via this site is:
45.93 MB/s read and 24.33 MB/s write for sequential in CDM
ATTO picture on the right tops out at 15 MB/s write speed writing larger files and 40+ MB/s read speed
edit: another customer review http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/review/B00V62XBQQ/R23QSX1C2N3LKY?ref_=glimp_1rv_cl at 83 MB/s read and 14.7 MB/S write
And another with a CDM http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/review/B00V62XBQQ/R2VEZ2XWKOTMDU?ref_=glimp_1rv_cl NFI how to interpret as his SEQQ32T1 is 26ish MB/S but SEQ is 60MB/S
/u/Nilzzz reports 19MB/S sequential write
Alright I got a technical question.
I ordered a SanDisk Extreme PRO 64GB link
Read: Up to 95MB/s
Write: Up to 90MB/s
So won't this be ideal for a snappy phone speeds from an SD card for both 4k and general use?
---
Compared to the current offer Actual amazon link
The product description doesn't give a clear indication of write speeds (vs the 1st product I listed) but from the useful Amazon Comments I got:
Sequential Read : 45.93 MB/s
Sequential Write : 14.7 MB MB/s
^(thanks /u/ekol for the correct read/write speeds)
So wouldn't the 64gig Extreme pro be ideal for 4k recording and general speediness?
SanDisk Ultra 128GB microSDXC UHS-I Card with Adapter, Black, Standard Packaging (SDSQUNC-128G-GN6MA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010Q57S62/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_gjNEybQA4N5TQ
128GB for $39.99 retail.
I saw a SanDisk SDXC 128GB for 29.99 on Amazon, the 200GB is 49.99. Not sure if these are exclusively black Friday related, but it's definitely the lowest I've seen either.
Edit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010Q57S62/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_m8OnybSB4D0HT
Amazon is now matching this deal.
https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-68-Keys-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01E8KO2B0
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZ9XE8N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_P9TJyb7XXXFMA?th=1
https://www.amazon.com/Velocifire-Tenkeyless-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches/dp/B01MS8YTYX/ref=sr_1_261?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485774275&amp;sr=8-261&amp;keywords=brown+mechanical+keyboard
magicforce68 is a pretty decent budget keeb.
this version has the brown switches but its the cheapest
https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-68-Keys-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01E8KO2B0
there is also the drevo calibur for 10$ more has bluetooth
https://www.amazon.com/DREVO-Calibur-Bluetooth-Mechanical-Switch-Black/dp/B01N7HNY1F/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519526924&amp;sr=1-1-spons&amp;keywords=drevo+calibur&amp;psc=1
Yes these are great for gaming, you can turn it into an awesome headset too with the [V-MODA BoomPro] (https://www.amazon.ca/V-MODA-BoomPro-Gaming-Headset-Headphone/dp/B00BJ17WKK)
No, it’s a cable with an in-line Mic, he uses it with his Beats, I use it with my Bose. here
Do your Beats come with a removable cable? If so, you can get this.
You don't need to spend that much. This Sandisk 240GB model along with this SATA III to USB 3 cable will do just as well for less money, but it won't look as pretty lol.
You said you could stretch a little. Well, I've got a build that can knock your socks off.
__
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor | £185.99 @ Amazon UK
Motherboard | Asus - PRIME B350M-A Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | £63.74 @ Amazon UK
Memory | Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | £119.68 @ Amazon UK
Storage | Kingston - A400 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | £71.97 @ Amazon UK
Storage | Seagate - BarraCuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | £37.99 @ Aria PC
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB Founder Edition Video Card | £582.50 @ Amazon UK
Case | CiT - SPECTRE WHITE ATX Mid Tower Case | £31.01 @ Ebuyer
Power Supply | Corsair - CSM 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | £67.98 @ Ebuyer
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | £83.70 @ Aria PC
Monitor | Hannspree - HE225DPB 21.5" 1920x1080 Monitor | £79.99 @ CCL Computers
Monitor | AOC - G2460VQ6 24.0" 1920x1080 75Hz Monitor | £127.94 @ CCL Computers
Keyboard| Rosewill RK-9000V2| £49.99
Microphone| ModMic| £44.99
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | £1547.47
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-07 23:53 BST+0100 |
__
Oh, where to start.
Ryzen 1600
SSD and HDD combo
Case
Video Card
Monitors
Keyboard
Microphone
_____
If you have any questions or further details, please let me know. I hope your build is as great as you want.
Ears, mic, amp guide. Done.
If you get a USD to SATA adapter you can clone/transfer files directly from the HDD to SSD.
Buy (or borrow) a USB to SATA cable https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
This will allow access to the harddrive if the data is not encrypted.
Best of luck.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_a3LSAbPG98N78
If you don’t have an Amazon Prime account, do yourself a favor and get one.
It's super easy. Maybe 5 minutes to get the screws out, 5 minutes to put the drive in, 5 minutes to put the screws back. Most of the time will just be cloning your HDD to the SSD, or copying your data over if you want a clean install of macOS.
Pop the bottom off, unscrew some bracket, pull a cable off. Move the screw/pegs from the HDD to the SSD, then pop it in.
iFixit Guide:
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/MacBook+Pro+15-Inch+Unibody+Mid+2009+Hard+Drive+Replacement/1715
You can skip the part about removing the battery. It isn't necessary to pull the HDD. Just make sure to lift the hard drive slowly so that you don't pull its cable.
I recommend the Samsung EVO, 250GB, 500GB, etc. And don't forget to enable TRIM.
You can use the built-in Disk Utility to clone ("image") your HDD to the SSD. You just need a USB adapter for that.
250 GB SSD, $93:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OAJ412U/
Port-powered SATA/USB (should work fine for external SSDs), $12.50:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/
500 GB SSD, $170:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OBRE5UE/
Powered SATA/USB adapter (may be needed for some external HDDs), $22:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005B3VO24/
HDDs are not hard to pull from a desktop and you can get a cheap USB adapter to access it on a new computer. Youtube should have plenty of directions.
https://smile.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504234904&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=sata+to+usb+adapter&amp;psc=1
Assuming that it's a normal 2.5in HDD, you should just be able to remove it and connect it to another device. You can either connect it internally to another PC or you could get a HDD to usb adapter like this You should also be able to find a YouTube video on how to remove the HDD from your specific laptop, if you're unsure.
Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized For SSD, Support UASP SATA III] Black (EC-UASP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
SanDisk 250GB Ultra 3D NAND SATA III SSD - 2.5-inch Solid State Drive - SDSSDH3-250G-G25 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071KGRXRH?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I'm not very tech savvy, and I got it to work pretty easily. Just put one in the other and use the USB connection in the back of the OG Xbox (side one didnt work). It'll ask you if you want to format it for games. Do that then transfer PUBG over and you're on your way. It'll say you need 256gb, but my 250gb works with no issues.
There's tutorials online also.
There may be cheaper ones out there, but this worked for me. Got the model from someone else on this sub
The samsung ones are even cheaper (except the 128gb one):
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-MicroSD-Adapter-MB-ME128GA-AM/dp/B06XWZWYVP/ref=sr_1_2_acs_ac_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1538158930&amp;sr=8-2-acs&amp;keywords=samsung+micro+sd+card
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-MicroSD-Adapter-MB-ME128GA-AM/dp/B06XWZWYVP/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499352772&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=128GB+micro+sd
faster but same price as the 128
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B06XWZWYVP/
I think this is it, can anyone confirm? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XWZWYVP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_D7g5BbDTPC7TY
I received my X3000 today and also received this 128 GB Samsung EVO Select card. I am happy to say it recognizes and records 100Mbit/s to the card with no issues! I'm able to select and record all formats, and I don't see any issues with the footage.
Samsung 128GB 100MB/s (U3) MicroSD EVO Select Memory Card with Adapter (MB-ME128GA/AM)
Fake as heck. If you want a trustworthy high capacity and fast card, check out Samsung Evo Select on Amazon.
Samsung 128GB 100MB/s (U3) MicroSD EVO Select Memory Card with Adapter (MB-ME128GA/AM) $45
To learn more about fake SD cards, http://www.happybison.com/reviews/how-to-check-and-spot-fake-micro-sd-card-8/
I have the 64GB version of this card. It has lasted years but is super slow with writes.
CrystalDiskMark read results were OK at 86, 3, 3, 2.7 MB/s. Write was terrible at 7.5, 1.2, 0.9, 0.9 MB/s !
I never noticed how slow it was until trying to take 4K video, fuggetaboutit. It's too slow for 1080p60.
Moved up to the 128GB Samsung Evo Select (U3), tested sequential read/write is 95 and 87 MB/s respectively. It's $19.49, 15% cash back with Amazon Prime card.
---
Write down your values right now.
0 being the lowest, 10 being the highest.
A129 isn't a bad dash cam, but be prepared for your values to shift after ownership after a while. If you did your research, you know what you are purchasing. A129 2CH is what it is, as advertised.
---
Micro SD cards last about a year or 2, maybe 3, then die. They have a limited number of read/write/rewrite cycles. Some are not Dashcam rated (will say in the warranty use in a dash cam will void warranty.) Some dash cams are picky with Micro SD cards and reject them on an unknown criteria. Some dash cams have recommended brands of Micro SD cards.
So I don't know how Viofo parking mode activates under different situations.
1st wire (Postitive) -> Always on fuse = Parking mode; 2nd wire -> Ground wire (Negative) to unpainted bolt (completes circuit).
Or
1st wire (Positive) -> Ignition only fuse = No parking mode; 2nd wire -> Ground wire (Negative) to unpainted bolt (completes circuit).
1st wire (Bat) -> Always on fuse = Powers dash cam; 2nd wire (ACC) -> Ignition only fuse = Detects if parked or driving; 3rd wire -> Ground wire (Negative) to unpainted bolt (completes circuit).
I don't know how/if A129 changes from 2 -> 3 wire, or from 3 wire viofo -> 3 wire Power Magic Pro.
All Fuses, including Tap a fuse should match your vehicle's type. Mini/Mini low profile are the most common. There are also ATO, Micro 2, Micro 3, and Maxi type fuses.
Read your owner's manual for fuse box location(s) typically 2-3 in every vehicle - in/under dashboard (use this one), Under hood (avoid at all costs), In door (use able but not favored), and Trunk (Use able but not favored.)
Also cheap on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Sandisk-Ultra-128GB-Micro-Adapter/dp/B073JYC4XM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1538147866&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=sandisk+class+10+micro+sd+card&psc=1
128GB for $26.41, 64GB for $14.75, 32GB for $9.39. I believe flash memory is dropping with cryptocurrency dropping.
$25.39
Sandisk Ultra 128GB Micro SDXC UHS-I Card with Adapter - 100MB/s U1 A1 - SDSQUAR-128G-GN6MA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JYC4XM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VdGVBb3RNJQ22
Howdy folks. There is another option that's cheaper and was posted today..
Amazon link from other thread
I bought that Sandisk card about a year ago and it's holding up well. It's also only $30 on Amazon right now (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JYC4XM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MbDJBbWKHSPK5).
128GB Sandisk microSD cards are 15$ right now on Amazon.
200GB - $64.99
128GB - $38.99
64GB - $19.99
The hard wire kit is supposed to cut power off if the battery voltage gets too low to prevent draining the battery. I may test to see how long it records with the car off to see if it will be something I do.
I'm not familiar with types of SC cards so hopefully mine will work. It suggested a class 10 so I got the SanDisk Ultra.
Price History
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CamelCamelCamel - [Info] │ Keepa - [Info]
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Rook no further, PriceKnight is here!
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IMO Best value for the money
I managed to fit a 400Gb into an XZ1 compact, so pretty sure it'll work on XZ2c
Has bad reviews, I would not recommend lexar - get https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-MicroSDXC-Adapter-MB-ME512GA-AM/dp/B07MKSGZM6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=512gb+micro+sd+card&amp;qid=1562659978&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
if you really need that much space or
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-400GB-microSDXC-Memory-Adapter/dp/B074RNRM2B/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=512gb+micro+sd+card&amp;qid=1562660042&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-5
if your willing to less space and U1 instead of U3
https://www.androidauthority.com/samsung-galaxy-s10-price-release-date-availability-955565/
For the s10+ it was $250 to go from 128 to 512 GB storage. You can get a 400 GB SD card for $55:
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-400GB-microSDXC-Memory-Adapter/dp/B074RNRM2B/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=512+gb+sd&amp;qid=1564237162&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-4
Almost five times as expensive to get internal storage.
I've got this one, moving to internal storage has drastically reduced road times for Doom, Wolfenstein 2, and Fortnite in comparison to the SD card, and Dooms frame rate was way more stable. I'm stuck at work so I can't personally test this, but it's well known in the Switch community that internal storage is for intense games
Sandisk has an 400gb micro sd card for 60 usd https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-400GB-microSDXC-Memory-Adapter/dp/B074RNRM2B/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=sandisk+512+micro+sd&qid=1556830422&s=gateway&sr=8-3
400gb? just buy a microsd card and call it a day: here
400gb library lol
You can already store like 2.5 on one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074RNRM2B
(400 GB)
I saw it was on amazon the other day for $62. Lowest price yet!
Edit: removed fake card I found for $40
Edit: This is legit and $66 currently on amazon (guess it went up): https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-400GB-microSDXC-Memory-Adapter/dp/B074RNRM2B/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2A1XII6DTHLBB&amp;keywords=400gb+micro+sd+card&amp;qid=1554818721&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=400+gb+micr%2Caps%2C145&amp;sr=8-3
U1 guarantees a minimum sequential write speed of 10 MB/s - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secure_Digital#Speed_class_rating
It may be faster than that, but it's probably not faster than 30 MB/s, because then they'd mark it U3
Update: here are the two reported write speeds I see in the reviews for the 400gb card:
https://www.amazon.com/Sandisk-Ultra-400GB-Adapter-SDSQUAR-400G-GN6MA/product-reviews/B074RNRM2B/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_viewopt_fmt?ie=UTF8&amp;reviewerType=all_reviews&amp;pageNumber=1&amp;filterByKeyword=write+speed&amp;formatType=current_format
Qisan MagicForce. Very affordable. Can get them in a wide variety of switches. https://www.amazon.com/Qisan-Mechanical-Keyboard-68-Keys-Magicforce/dp/B01E8KO2B0
If you are okay with a smaller form factor and want a cheap mechanical keyboard, you can check this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-68-Keys-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01E8KO2B0
It comes with Oetemu Browns and not Cherry MX Browns, but for the price they are good. The function row keys are available through combinations with the Fn key.
Of course, you should check out /r/mechanicalkeyboards .
i was able to use 128gb u3 with the standard tutorial
https://github.com/TriForceX/NewBittboyCFW/blob/master/PocketGo-Guide-EN.md
i think this was the card
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-MicroSDXC-Adapter-MB-ME128GA-AM/dp/B06XWZWYVP
and i recommend u3 because of how much quicker it is to flash firmware from scratch as well as copying large files
i don't have a larger card, so I'm not sure of the max supported size
Sure! One board that I found when I first started digging into this hobby was Velocifire's TKL01, which let me know how brown switches felt. There's also the RedDragon Kumara which I see around a lot from people that want to try the hobby before they really deeply invest. There's also the Magicforce 68 which is one of the most recommended budget boards around here, especially for people that want to flirt with smaller layouts than TKL or full size.
It's a magicforce 68 key with Gateron brown switches. I prefer small keyboards without a lot of frill. This one has LEDs which I usually avoid but I actually don't mind them. To me the standout "features" are the lack of F-row and no numpad. Just what I need for gaming and typing.
https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-68-Keys-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01E8KO2B0
Imo spend 10$ more and get either https://www.amazon.com/Qisan-Mechanical-Keyboard-68-Keys-Magicforce/dp/B01E8KO2B0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539786629&sr=8-3&keywords=magicforce+68 or https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Bluetooth-Multi-Device-Mechanical-Rechargeable/dp/B0731CJ4ZJ/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1539786653&sr=8-10&keywords=magicforce+68
How do you feel about building your own
Otherwise you could go slightly larger like a Magicforce 68 or Varmilo VA68.
Next up in size would be a Drevo Gramr, Calibur, or Excalibur. Vortex Race3 is similar in size, but better stock caps and limited programability.
Otherwise, get a Ducky One TKL.
TBH, I'd just buy a cheap one off Amazon. I use the Magicforce Mechanical Tenkeyless with brown switches, it was 30 bucks, and it works great. I also am a transcriptionist, so I type all the damn time, and it's stood up to a whole lot o' typing and it feels great. Any of the other knock-off switches and cheaper brands are usually pretty good, too. No need to buy a more expensive mechanical keyboard now that they make them cheaper now. You're just paying more for a name.
It's 40 now: https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-68-Keys-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01E8KO2B0
It's good. Have to use function keys for F-keys, but I don't find it to be a problem. They have similarly priced ones with F keys.
Unfortunately, you’re not going to find much on this sub for less than $50.00.
You could look at the Magiforce 68 - it’s an excellent starter keyboard.
Drevo is also a good place to start. The Gramr is less than $50.00. The Excalibur is a bit more expensive, but it is also a nicer board.
Hope this helps, and GLWB!
The Magicforce 68 is probably the best budget mech you can go for, worth spending just a little more for it
/u/basicforest89 It's the Magicforce 68.
Links for all the items I got for your reference:
Screen Protector
Memory Card
Case
Stand
Battery Pack
Pro Controller
Nyko Dock
The Samsung EVO Select (white and green) have been solid so far in dash cameras and are a good value.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XWZWYVP/ref=twister_B071R715MZ?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Any reason not to get the slightly cheaper newer version?
https://www.amazon.com/Sandisk-Ultra-128GB-Micro-Adapter/dp/B073JYC4XM/
I have this one and it’s great
for the noctua fan mod u need the fan & 3d printed mount, as for the picopsu & gdemu here's few a links for them
&#x200B;
noctua fan- https://www.ebay.com/itm/Noctua-NF-A4x10-5V-Premium-Quiet-Fan-3-Pin-5V-Version-40x10mm-Brown/322236820992?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
&#x200B;
noctua 3d printed parts- https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dreamcast-Noctua-Fan-Mount-Kit/273766717721?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3Dff8d1a32c5074eb7addc96d4e62fda19%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D183832533802%26itm%3D273766717721%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
&#x200B;
picopsu- https://www.ebay.com/itm/PicoDreamcast-V1-1-PicoPSU-mod-for-Sega-Dreamcast/273813870667?hash=item3fc094184b:g:gPwAAOSwozpcuhIZ
&#x200B;
gdemu- https://www.ebay.com/itm/GDEMU-Optical-Drive-Board-Card-Repair-Part-V5-15-For-SEGA-DC-DreamcastHost-Game/333124384430?hash=item4d8fc2b6ae:g:eFUAAOSwASRckeF4
&#x200B;
sandisk 128gb microsd- https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-128GB-microSDXC-Memory-Adapter/dp/B073JYC4XM
&#x200B;
& a power adapter for the picopsu if u live in US- https://www.ebay.com/itm/Aukru-12V-2A-Power-Supply-Adapter-AC-to-DC-5-5mm-x-2-5mm-US-12V2A-5525-1-5m-LED/312698755511?hash=item48ce4c59b7:g:Z24AAOSw~RldKlhS
&#x200B;
get everything i've listed & your good to go search google for the gdemu sd card maker tho to put your GDI or CDI dreamcast or personal GDI ripped games on your sd card to play
The Switch doesn't support external hard drives. You need a micro SD card.
A SanDisk Ultra is the usual recommendation. Whatever size your budget allows.
Amazon also has a similar deal a little bit more expensive but no $4.99 flat shipping
So I recently got a 128gb micro SD card (https://www.amazon.com/Sandisk-Ultra-128GB-Micro-Adapter/dp/B073JYC4XM/ref=dp_ob_title_ce). When I put the micro SD card it, it says it must be formatted first and offers to do so. I choose to format the micro SD card, and then it says it's been formatting and will restart in 3 seconds. The system restarts, and I get the same message, my micro sd card needs to be formatted and offers to do it. It's weird because I'm not getting any sort of error code. It appears to format properly until the system restarts. This cycle just repeats. My switch software is fully up to date.
Unfortunately, this is not a good deal.
The same card is available for $19.99 at Amazon, and a similar card is available for $17.87 at Amazon.
The 128GB version is only $32 : Sandisk Ultra 128GB Micro SDXC UHS-I Card with Adapter - 100MB/s U1 A1 - SDSQUAR-128G-GN6MA
The same cost per byte for 128GB is excellent!
Amazon
So decided to dig out my old psp slim and mess around with it again. I could not find any info online about using anything bigger than a 64GB MicroSD working at all so I figured id give 128GB card a go. If it didn't work then Id just have a new 128GB card to use in my Nintendo Switch.
I have a psp 2000 flashed to 6.60ME-1.6 (I have not even checked to see if there is a new CFW since this version)
Bought this microSD to memstick pro duo - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00176F2RC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
and this microSD - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B073JYC4XM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I used gparted in Linux (this is just what I run as my OS) to delete the exfat partition and recreated it as fat32.
I see no reason why disk management in windows (and what ever apple uses) as well to delete/recreate the partition as fat32.
Once I put the card into my PSP is said the card could not be used and needed to be formatted. so I let it format. Once it was done it reported all the correct free space. copied over all my iso and games run just fine. from me testing load times in GTA:VCS went from 26.56s to 31.41s on the new SD card. Also most psp takes a few more seconds to boot. but I suspect that's because I have 11x the number of games on the card. overall a few seconds added to load times is worth having over 120GB more space.
Edit: Ignore the date and time being way off in the picture. My original battery had swelled and so I took it out. I was just to lazy to keep setting it every time I plugged back in the charger. Thankfully the 1800mwh sony battery I used as a pandora battery(just found out you could turn it back into a normal battery. haha) looks fine and still holds a change (I used double sided tape to hold the bigger battery in place and got almost 6 hours in gta-lsc before it needed to be charged). just waiting on an extended cover so I can use it fully.
The Switch comes with a card, it is just slow and small in space.
If you physically buy every game on the switch, you won't have much of an issue with space. It becomes an issue when you digitally buy games. I personally prefer digital, as it makes taking it on the go with me much more simple. I still get hard copies of some good single player games that I like collecting the cases for.
Sandisk 128GB Micro SD $19.99
I use this card for my switch, and you will not run out of space even if you buy most of your games digitally. If you won't buy many games, then you can opt for the 64GB card for $12.
I have all sizes. 32GB, 64GB, 128GB... Just got two 128GB cards for two new cams. I even put a 200GB card in as a pinch once. I've had no issues.
That sounds like a complicated solution (e.g. prone to failure) for a simple problem. The simplest solution would simply be to inform whoever is managing the laptops that they must be online on a schedule for backups and failure to adhere to that could result in data loss. The next easiest would be to add a backup drive to each laptop. Low profile thumb drives, SSD cards, etc. Are all inexpensive. Lastly, adding some sort of NAS device that they could connect to locally if needed would still be simpler than some sort of Silicon Valley storage solution.
Edit:
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-128GB-Flash-Drive/dp/B01BGTG2A0/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=low+profile+thumb+drive&amp;qid=1558803321&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=low+profile+thumb+drive&amp;sr=8-8
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-MicroSD-Adapter-MB-ME128GA-AM/dp/B06XWZWYVP/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=ssd+card&amp;qid=1558803377&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
Great price at Amazon right now: Samsung 128GB 100MB/s (U3) MicroSD EVO Select Memory Card with Adapter (MB-ME128GA/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XWZWYVP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_80nNBb82K6WPJ
Samsung 128GB 100MB/s is $17
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-MicroSDXC-Adapter-MB-ME128GA-AM/dp/B06XWZWYVP
for pics, evo cards are fine or any basic from a reputable company...
For UHD video to be recorded directly onto the sdcard, depending on the bitrate (e.g. 40mbps etc), you need a card that can write at a speed greater than that, Samsung Pro cards are rated to write around 80-90mbps and read around the same, Sandisk has similar cards but where i am, Samsung is cheaper.
I myself got the Samsung pro 64gb microsd for the above reason, those evo cards that display 95mbps, thats for read, write is still limited to 15-20mbps. But the 2017 Samsung Evo Select after a certain size can write at ~90mbps i think its 64 or 128gb, only disadvantage of this over a pro card is that its MLC meaning if both were used exactly the same again and again, the pro would last longer than the evo select
Even without the technical issues involved, I think swapping cards all the time would be a pain in the neck. What is the barrier to picking up a larger card? You can get a 128gig, high performance U3 card (Samsung Evo) for $20 from Amazon ( https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-MicroSD-Adapter-MB-ME128GA-AM/dp/B06XWZWYVP )
That's the price of a single indie game, and would give you double the space of your two 32gb cards combined...and you would not need to swap. Even so, I'd recommend paying double in order to get the 256gb version. I recently maxed out my 128gb and had to upgrade. It was possible and ended up being very clean, but it was a little bit of a hassle to perform the data transfer.
I know this isn't really an answer, but you might wanna look into an SD Card. 64 GB ones aren't very expensive. Even very good ones like this 128 GB card are only $20 dollars or so.
If you don't feel like doing that, maybe check Target, Walmart, or Best Buy? They'll also have inventory for stores listed on their websites and you can usually reserve a physical copy for pickup as well.
I have this one and am very happy with it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XWZWYVP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
According to customer reviews, it's faster than the older Plus youve linked.
Just dont get a sandisk ultra. My phones (both windows and android) have killed 2x 64gb ultra cards and 1x 128gb ultra cards (so 100% of all sandisk microsds ive ever owned).
Speed is definitely noticeable compared to the sandisks. When i had a tonne of photos the sandisk would cause the gallery app to crash. With the samsung, no rpoblem.
Evo Select.... https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XWZWYVP?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
SanDisk Extreme...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07FCQRN9K?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Amazon has a 400gb card for $112 right now. Was $100 earlier so I'm thinking it might go up soon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074RNRM2B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EJ00BbG2G45G7
if you are planing to fully digital then get a 400 gb card instead.
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the current microsd cards spec goes to 2tb (suported by the switch). the bigest cards available are 1tb. those are way to expensive now. i think the current sweetspot for price vs size is 400 gb.
If you really want to go all out there are good 512 GBs for about $100. But there are also 400 GBs under $70 now, giving more bang for buck.
So I'm using a very full 64GB MicroSD card and bought a 400 GB replacement. Now, what is the best way to backup your things?
Do I connect and transfer the old card contents from Micro SD card, to my PC. Then format my new 400GB Micro and then put the data back onto the 400GB?
Do I need to use any Cloud features? Will I be losing anything?
This is what I bought btw. Is it a good one? (19K 4 1/2 Stars)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074RNRM2B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks a lot!
EDIT: Also, I did a search before posting this here, both here and google.
This will end up costing you 2,500$ + the 25$ card. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B074RNRM2B/ A similar sized ssd will cost 1,500$.
But we can take this further. There are 512GB capacity MicroSD cards. This will end up costing 3,000$ for the sd cards, and net you a whopping 5TB setup. Plus 25$ for the card. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NP699ZI/
There are no commercially available 5TB SSDs. Well, it might exist but i could not find one for sale. https://pcpartpicker.com/products/internal-hard-drive/#t=0&amp;sort=ppgb&amp;page=1&amp;S=4000000,12000000
This card allows you to have a 5TB single card solid state setup, before anyone else.
A 400GB Sandisk is $52.99 if you want something cheaper or don't have a prime card.
The zalman is like 5 bucks https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00029MTMQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485637631&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=Zalman
This. Buy the ZM-Mic 1 and if you only have a shitty onboard sound card also buy a USB sound card like this one, otherwise it'll be low volume with lots of noise. Yes, even a $5 USB sound card is better than onboard sound, they are that bad.
So less than $12 in total for very good mic quality, there's really no excuse for having a shitty mic, let alone none.
You can skip the webcam, if you want. Most games don't use them and the few times I played with the DM that had one, it was just a couple of other players who had one as well and the rest just played without one.
As for the mic, me, I bought something a little fancier, a Samson C01U for 77$ which is roughly equivalent in quality to the twice as expensive Blue Yeti and a pair of Superlux headphones, which is this Taiwanese company which makes really good, inexpensive entry-levels cans, but I also wanted to maybe record myself for Youtube and shit. You'll do just fine with whatever you buy after searching "best cheap headset" or maybe some Superlux headphones (so that people can't hear themselves on your speakers) and a Samson Go or perhaps even a Zalman Zm-Mic1
https://www.amazon.com/Metro-ED500-DataVac-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW
Sure, except for the fact that those vacuums are too wimpy to really do anything.
Better to go big or go home!
I use one of these and a camera lens brush / qtip for any stubborn bits:
http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW
If you want one that's not a toy, grab a Metro Vacuum ED500 DataVac 500-Watt 0.75-HP Electric Duster instead.
Highly recommended. Just be sure to have your earplugs handy, they're loud.
Get dust filters for your case and buy an electric duster.
I live in an apartment but I own one of these https://www.amazon.com/Metro-DataVac-500-Watt-0-75-HP-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW (can't vouch for that particular listing, but the product is what I mean).
It looks unassuming but that fucker is just a (electric, corded) leaf blower in a different indoor form factor. I bought it after the bad ash clouds a few years ago to clean my electronics.
Use something like this instead.
I'm a big fan of [this...]
(http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW/ref=pd_sim_60_6?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41Cp8R4LZ9L&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=1ZFDRCAFYA8014DSD9PR)
Haven't tried the one you listed, but this is super portable and has a decently long cord. Doesn't have a vacuum feature though.
http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW
THIS
http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW
Never touched a can since
When it comes to cleaning the interiors, a data vac is awesome. Just need power and a good spot for the blow job. http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW
I picked up one of these once I finished my last can of air. Sure it's a little pricy, but I'll never have to pick up another can again!
The thing is just as powerful, if not more powerful than a can of air and you can use it for much longer (granted it does get a bit warm).
I actually look forward to cleaning my computer as well as friends just to put that thing to work, haha
Buy the Metro Vac if you plan on having your PC for a few years and building more in the future. It will save you over the long run from buying compressed air and you don't have to worry about the liquid coming out from the can. Just make sure you hold your fans in place while cleaning (even when using compressed air as well). You don't have to worry about the static from a regular vacuum as well.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001J4ZOAW/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1/191-3113634-4563214?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&amp;pf_rd_r=1Z6SX38GBHP14Y4KQQVP&amp;pf_rd_t=201&amp;pf_rd_p=1535523722&amp;pf_rd_i=B000RMPXXK
I clean two PCs out about every 6 months, if you can take them outside its even easier. I saw someone else post this a while back and it has definitely been worth the money. I hated buying the cans of compressed air so I used to just put off cleaning it, but now with this thing I've been cleaning them out pretty regularly.
You can also get some dust filters for your intake fans as well, I have some cheap ones from Silverstone and they work pretty well. I believe you can also make your own filter just by using some pantyhose.
Hey /u/PriceZombie what are the stats on the Logitech G-13?
Don't buy into the whole "gaming headset" craze. A lot of it is overpriced garbage. Find a pair of good quality headphones and then buy this mic to go with it.
If you want to save money and only care about performance/price ratio try this combination in the sub 75 dollar range, which should be sufficient for most gamers. This will net you better quality than anything that is marketed for gaming:
Sennheiser HD 202
Zalman ZM-MIC1
Separate Mic! No need to limit your options by only looking at headsets. Get a decent set of cans and get a separate microphone. This is what i did but you can swap out any solid set of cans in your price range. Drop 250 for akg701's Here and get a
15$8$ mic, amazing solution if you have the power to drive the headphones. If you are super picky about microphone quality go for a blue microphone.Don't buy into the whole "gaming headset" craze. Find a good pair of legitimate headphones and then buy a mic like this one to go with it.
My friends and I use that mic and the sound quality is crystal clear through both ends. Don't be fooled by a gaming headset being good just because it has a built in microphone. Majority (if not all of them) have terrible quality and are ridiculously overpriced. I know you don't want to order things online, but I'd recommend looking into it. If you're putting $50-$100 into something, it's much more worth it to wait a week for it to come in than settle for a half-assed pair because you can buy it directly from the store.
Zalman clip on mic. Best thing ever.
Cheap too.
Edit: Actually, looking at the cx500 I don't think the zalman will be able to clip onto them, so you should look into something like one of the logitech desk mics.
Audio Technica ATH-AD700
Zalman Microphone
Simply superb combination. Throw in a Xonar DG is you want a nice (and cheap) sound card to bring it all together.
Depends on some things.
Do you want virtual 7.1 simulation/EAX support? If yes, a standard Xonar DS soundcard for around 30-40USD will suffice. That will help with some of the more expensive headphones too, which will need a bit of extra power to drive.
Pretty much every gaming headset uses rather cheap mics and so can we. All voip comm will get heavily compressed, be it with TS, skype or ingame voice, so you really don't need a high quality mic for gaming. Many gamers are using a Zalman mic for around 10USD, but any cheap, sturdy clip on mic will do.
This left us with around ~150USD for a good headphone. There are plenty of alternatives in the <150USD range, I can give you a couple of often recommended options.
The favorite right now in hi-fi circles is the ATH-m50 at around 130USD.
A very comfortable pair are the AKG K271MKII at the same price level.
To complete the our maxing out the budget trio we have the Ultrasone HFI-780.
All three have superior drivers with very good sound characteristics, very decent isolation and are fun enough to listen to for gaming, music and movies.
But we don't really have to max out the budget to get superior sound quality. There are some very decent headphones under 100USD too, which can more than compete with any high budget gaming headset.
Some examples: Sony MDRZX700
Creative Aurvana Live, especially for Europeans where the price is better
similar famous like the ATH-M50 are the ATH-AD700. It's a open headphone though, so gone is any decent isolation in exchange for a better soundstage.
I could go on for a bit, but those mentioned above are pretty well known and tested with the hi-fi community. You should find plenty of reviews and user experience for them. While some of them are a bit more analytical than most users are used to, they are all pretty fun and warm and not so boring like traditional studio monitors.
Even if we look at the lower budget gaming headsets <100USD, many without any 7.1 simulation, we can find plenty of better sound headphones, especially if we don't need a soundcard.
Probably the best bang for your buck. However, if those ModMics are in stock you might want to check them out.
Disclaimer:
I don't know A LOT about audio quality and what to consider when buying topnotch headphones, however:
A few months ago I was looking for a gaming headset (headphones+mic) myself and found the following combination on a German web page (their discussion board is very appreciated in Germany):
Superlux HD 681 - £27 on Amazon
Zalman Zm-Mic1 - £10 on Amazon
I never had expensive headphones before but the guys on the board stated that the Superlux HD681 go head to head with some €150 AKG headphones. I, for my part, have no comparison but I really like them and have yet to find their downside. The mic is good too, but it falls of the cord quit frequently cause I move quite a lot.
I also bought the headphones along with velvet ear cushions like those (£10 on Amazon), which make long gaming sessions very comfortable.
You now spent only about £47 so you still have half of your budget for a nice audio card, enhancing your audio-experience even more.
I hope I could support you a little bit for your buying decision and please excuse me for my bad English. =)
Edit: formatting
Could have sworn i only payed like 4 bucks for mine, but here is the default one. That is actually the recommended mic to go with when picking out a headphones + mic vs Headset. Its generally either that, or the high end solution which is to use a ModMic (40 or so bucks). That said, i and several friends use the zalman and have no complaints. Meanwhile, another friend has a razer headset and its the worst fucking thing when being on coms with him.
Don't buy into "gaming headsets". A nice pair of headphones with an external mic will give you way more sound quality. If I were you I would get:
Sennheiser HD 598's- http://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-HD-598-Headphones-Accents/dp/B0042A8CW2/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1414427164&amp;sr=1-2-catcorr&amp;keywords=sennheiser+hd+pro+598
Ear Force DSS2 - http://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Beach-Force-Surround-Processor-63043006306200/dp/B006W41X36 (not sure what is up with that first picture)
Zalman clip on mic - http://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Zm-Mic1-Sensitivity-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B00029MTMQ
Then you'd need an adapter to hook up a 3.5mm audio to whatever controller you're using. You can simply get a male 2.5mm to female 3.5mm adapter (won't give you chat volume control) or you can use something like this http://steelseries.com/us/products/outlet/steelseries-spectrum-audio-mixer-xb if you're using a Xbox 360.
This setup is almost exactly what I use and it's amazing. I use Sennheiser HD 380 Pro's and Ear Force DSS1.
Zalman mic for 8 bucks on Amazon - Sounds good and uses a standard 3.5mm audio jack, so no drivers or BS. If it's not long enough you can get it with an extension cable or pick up a cheap one from Walmart, Amazon, Best Buy, whatever. It clips onto your headphone cord or shirt or whatever, and if it doesn't hold tight enough you can just put a binder clip on it. It's a great way to not spend 100 bucks on a headset that sounds as good as $30 headphones. Now you can spend that money on something that sounds really great, or beer.
Sennheiser HD 201 + http://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Zm-Mic1-Sensitivity-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B00029MTMQ/ref=pd_sim_e_1?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0DC54EY9HC1S0YFQQR49
Will sound considerably better than this garbage.
amp isn't required for these. this zalman mic works great for me
I use this one. Gets the job done, haven't heard a single complaint from anyone. I just clip it to my headphone cable.
http://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Zm-Mic1-Sensitivity-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B00029MTMQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1418945333&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=clip+on+mic
Well, with audio, quality of sound and product often go hand in hand. My point about the headphone/mic combo stands. The quality on headsets, from my experience, pail in comparison.
For your budget, /r/headphones recommends the [Panasonic RP-HTF600-S] (http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-RPHTF600S-RP-HTF600-S-Stereo-Headphones/dp/B004MMEI8W) with the [Zalman clip-on mic.] (http://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Zm-Mic1-Sensitivity-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B00029MTMQ)
You can see down in the review section that someone published a video using the mic, and it sounds pretty good.
This is not uncommon. So much that this exists:
As for a Software Solution
Add your game to Steam, and map your controller's functions to whatever you want. Here's how to do it.
Otherwise, you might want to check out Joy2Key or Controller Companion.
Yeah you're right. Here's one. Doesn't look quite as comfy as the Nostromo though. Seems like something like this would be awesome.
We all use different mics because a few of us live far away from one another (two of us are in different states). But we generally use decent quality ones, I personally use a Blue Yeti mic. I can't speak for the others.
When we record we just record our single tracks via Audacity, and we do a Sync test over a Skype call so editing isn't a huge pain. We should probably move past Audacity at some point, but while we are still small I feel it isn't quite needed.
You can also get the Snowball iCE for $39.99 on Amazon
And the Yeti is $98.50 if anyone is interested
Some of the more common standing mics used by streamers are the Blue Snowball and the Blue Yeti
To start this and this will do you nicely. Just plug the USB into a Mac/PC, use free software such as Audacity to record your voice. It's incredibly simple.
Here, I just saved you $50. Never buy things off the apple store :)
http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Microphones-Yeti-USB-Microphone/dp/B002VA464S
This is exactly the place to ask this. I can point you in the right direction on these things, but you'll need some prices, details, or something if you want more advice.
Yes mechanical keyboard. Its like the peripheral upgrade equivalent of an SSD, everything about it is better, and you'll never go back.
HERE is a /r/MechanicalKeyboards stickied reason why. There is no way I could explain it any better. Spend a little time in that subreddit. The stickied post up top of it will help you pick your board. Then check out /r/mechmarket since durability is one of the nicest advantages.
THIS post is all you need to get started on speaker set-ups. /r/zeos is just great and covers all price ranges. Anything less than that, it will just come down to looks and reading reviews. Unless you can cop some of the Klipsch Promedias on CraigsList or something. I got a set for $25 and it is the best deal of my life. Things sound fantastic and I can't even take em above 50% or touch the sub volume without waking the neighbors.
As for wireless headphones, no idea. I don't mind the wires for the audio quality provided.
The Klipsch 2.1 for $150 sounds better than the Logitech imo.
What is your purpose? Is this for practicing at home? Do your neighbors live close by or need to keep the volume low? Do you need speakers you can use for small get togethers or even small house parties?
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These are monitor speakers. Monitor speakers are designed to sound really good for exactly one person in one small spot in the room very close to the speakers. That's why it's a "Monitor" a monitor like a computer monitor is generally for one person at close distances. Monitors aren't going to work well for a house party (think of 20 people trying to gather around a computer video monitor trying to watch a movie) but are probably OK for < 5 people hanging out in one room.
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If that is what you need then this will fit your desires. It won't have a lot of bass though, which may be an advantage if you need to keep your volumes low however it is a disadvantage for most DJ's to have limited bass.
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If you really want monitors personally I think the best price to performance is the JBL LSR-305 monitors they are the current king of Monitor speakers IMHO and fairly priced.
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If you need a more general purpose DJ speakers that cost around the same, but have significantly more bass and can be used for get togethers and house parties up to say 20-30 people then I recommend Logitech Z-623. The Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 THX are a good choice also but not sure if available in Europe.
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What part is dying on his headphones? E.g. The headphones themselves, the cable, something else every time?
I would recommend getting something with replaceable parts. In my experience it's usually just the cable that breaks after a few years of intense use. Also, the earpads may go bad after a couple more years.
I have very good experience with Sennheiser products so I did have a quick search for headphones with replacable cables / earpads and a mic if possible. It looks like the Sennheiser HD461 or HD 471 might be just what you're looking for.
However, personally I would recommend against using a headset with a built-in mic and using a separate headset and mic instead. The reason for this is pretty simple: Almost every part on a quality headphone can be replaced and you can get a decent clip-on microphone dirt cheap.
Example: A bit over 15 years ago I bought a Sennheiser HD500 and this microphone. While the microphone died last year, the headphones are still in use by my sister. The cable has been replaced once or twice, the earpads once I think.
I've upgraded to a Sennheiser HD600 eight years ago and in that time have replaced the cable twice (I drag it around a lot, am not careful enough, I know...), it's still the best headphone I've ever had. When my mic died after 14 years of use I've 'upgraded' to this one, it's pretty ridiculous how cheap it is for such a quality mic.
Get the hd681 from superlux and the zm-mic1 from zalman. Should be around your price and will beat headsets up to 100. Headphones + Mic = Awsome. I use the mic together with my custom one pros from beyerdynamic and it's awsome! EDIT: added the links.
http://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Zm-Mic1-Sensitivity-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B00029MTMQ
I wouldn't buy gaming headsets. Just buy a nice pair of headphones (eg. Sennheiser HD 201) + a nice external mic.
As for keyboards, I'd look into buying a mechanical keyboard.
Mice are personal preference
EDIT:
Here are some link
Sennheiser HD 201
MonoPrice Mech. Keyboard
As for mice as I said it's preference. it also depends on wheter you are a claw-gripper, palm-gripper or whatever. Maybe if you have a store like BestBuy or something around go there and test some mice.
Nice Zalman Mic.
mandatory link for "gaming" headset : http://www.head-fi.org/t/534479/mad-lust-envys-headphone-gaming-guide-updated-5-23-2013-mrspeakers-mad-dog-v-3-2-reviewed
mandatory references for the "mic" issue :
> Get this mic.
FTFY
Sennheiser HD201 Lightweight Over-Ear Binaural Headphones $20
Zalman Zm-Mic1 High Sensitivity Headphone Microphone $10
Those are the only budget headphones and mic I'd consider. It will sound much better than any gaming headset at even twice that price.
I responded to a similar thread on girlgamers here;
http://www.reddit.com/r/GirlGamers/comments/1y7ae5/in_need_of_a_good_pair_of_head_phones_wmic/cfhzlua
>My advice is to not buy a headset, and instead get a nice pair of headphones and a clipon mic. The majority of "gaming headsets" provide vastly inferior audio quality, are USB, and are really overpriced for what you get. see: Astro's.
>My suggestion is watch this video; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d1rXcJuEsy0
>To get a decent understanding of how headphones work, and what a lot of the general terminology means (Amp/DAC/Ohms/SNR/Digital and Analog signals/etc).
>Then proceed to;
>www.reddit.com/r/headphones
>And they'll probably tell you the exact same thing. A good pair of headphones combined with a clip-on-mic will not only provide the best audio experience for your money, but also the best audio experience period.
>http://www.head-fi.org/a/headphone-buying-guide
>This is a good price-range guide for headphones as well.
>in general;
>5.1 and 7.1 are a gimmick, virtual 5.1 and 7.1 dont do anything but allow 5.1 and 7.1 audio channel audio to be played as 5.1 and 7.1 audio channels.
>Generally in gaming, virtual 5.1 and 7.1 can actually muddy up directional sound and make your audio experience significantly worse if the game isnt optimized for that exact audio spartialization.
>You dont want USB if you're going to be using an Amp/DAC or a Soundcard, because it wont actually use your amp/dac or soundcard.
>Popular recommendations are like;
>Audio Technica ATH-M50
>Audio Technica ATH-AD700
>Audio Technica ATH-AD700x
>Sennheiser HD-280 Pro
>Beyerdynamic DT-770 Pro
and then a clip-on microphone like this one;
>Zalman ZM Mic1
But the tl;dr is, buy a good pair of headphones and a clip on mic. They will sound better, last longer, and potentially be significantly cheaper.
Also, check out Massdrop for good deals on Headphones and Amp/DAC's.
Headphones
AKG K-540
Sennheiser HD-439
Microphone
Zalman ZM-MIC 1
Either of those headphones will do just fine for it's price range plus you don't have to deal with the price premium for headsets. I own the Zalman mic myself and it's pretty decent for the price. If you really need a headset, my only recommendation would be the Skullcandy Slyr.
Lurk r/buildapcsales, There's always posts every few days that pop up for a great pair of headphones. Sennheiser, beyerdynamics, and akg just to name a few. Any of those paired with a standalone mic or modmic or clipon mic will always deliver sound leagues above
don't buy a headset.
Buy a pair of headphones and this http://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Zm-Mic1-Sensitivity-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B00029MTMQ
this advice is pretty much universal for anyone who knows anything.
Not OP but I can help you out here. Let's break this down by component:
Hope this helps. Higher quality audio equipment can be confusing and daunting, what with all the technical details, wide price ranges, parsing through all the marketing bullshit and the sometimes snobby attitudes of some "audiophiles". I wish you luck and feel free to ask me if you have any questions.
Grab a C920 or two and use Skype. You can run multiple instances easily for multiple camera angles. You may also desire an omnidirectional mic such as the Yeti for audio, but you can try a laptop built-in mic first and see if it picks up everyone at the table without noise canceling getting in the way. Of course, if the Hero 4 can be used as a webcam, then you can substitute it in place of a C920 without issue. I'm not sure how well it will work: I know the 4 is a huge improvement, but I definitely wouldn't bother with my 3 in any case.
I have a blue yeti bi directional USB mic with a pop filter and it sounds great. It was like $110 on Amazon.
I’d start there if I were you.
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Yeti-USB-Microphone-Silver/dp/B002VA464S/ref=asc_df_B002VA464S/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=309818716690&amp;hvpos=1o3&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=12313795219874146033&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9013652&amp;hvtargid=pla-309497948362&amp;psc=1
Just anything that gives you good quality recordings, ie, no background noise, no extreme alterations caused by a bad mic, no "thumps" caused by P's or B's.
For example, I used a Blue Yeti, a home made pop-filter, and for my recording program to clean and edit I use Audacity, an excellent free software. I usually record in my closet to reduce background noise, and Audacity has an fantastic noise filter as well.
Yeti Microphone by Blue Amazon Link
Put it on an articulating arm and you will not regret it. Buy a good set of headphones and never have issues again with crappy overpriced 1337 g4m3r headsets.
I know that a lot of streamers use the audio technica microphones so here's one. There is also the Blue Yeti. In terms of budget microphones, there is the Blue Snowball and the CAD u37. You also might want to consider an audio interface as well. Here's an excellent combo, cause its awesome.
Logitech G710+
https://www.amazon.ca/Logitech-Mechanical-Keyboard-Tactile-High-Speed/dp/B009C98NPY
Keyboards under $100, probably a [cm storm quickfire rapid] (http://www.amazon.com/Storm-QuickFire-Rapid-Tenkeyless-Mechanical/dp/B007VDLVD4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1420395524&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=cm+storm)
If you have a little more, maybe a logitech g710, das keyboards, ducky keyboards, or WASD keyboards, where you can customize the keycaps and the case.
/r/MechanicalKeyboards is a good place to find what you like
http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Mechanical-Keyboard-Tactile-High-Speed/dp/B009C98NPY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1427082309&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Logitech+G710
http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-Black-Cherry-CH-9000067-NA/dp/B00IYJD5CY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1427082340&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Corsair+Vengeance+K70+Black+Cherry+MX+Brown
Amazon is matching this deal.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009C98NPY/ref=s9_simh_gw_p147_d0_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=center-2&amp;pf_rd_r=07QMQYFMJ6E7JEZ7QDQD&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=1688200382&amp;pf_rd_i=507846
What a beginner, I have a G710+, it's legal in all states.
I paired these with the V-MODA BoomPro mic a while back but had a really bad problem with echoing. I assumed it was due to the open cans, so anyone wanting to use it with the boompro, keep that in mind.
I run the BoomPro using my ATH-M40x now and there is no echo problem.
I recently went through this same decision making process. Maybe I have poor hearing and just can't tell the difference but I've never been able to buy into the idea of paying a huge premium for "higher quality" audio. Instead I tend to lean towards applying those funds to increase the functionality that I find important.
When I started my search I had the following requirements that I was willing to pay more for.
-Comfort. I typically game for 1-2 hours at a time and have found that for me a lot of headsets can become uncomfortable in that time period. The cheaper they are the quicker this seemed to happen.
-Wireless. I can't stand gaming on the PC or console and having to find some place to move the headset cable to get it out of the way but still provide enough slack so I can move without it going taunt and pulling the ear cup it's attached to.
-Integrated microphone. This was a tough one. I chat using my PC, XBOX and PS3 while gaming and did not want to have to mess with changing audio inputs depending on what I was doing. I wanted something that was relatively seamless while retaining the wireless capability.
I did a lot of research online narrowing down my options before I committed to buying anything. With my initial budget of ~$150.00 I was not able to meet all the requirements listed above. My search had narrowed down my options to two headsets which I felt got as close as possible to meeting everything I wanted. I purchased and tried out the Tritton TRIAX-720 and Logitech G930's. I found both to be very uncomfortable and ended up returning them (thanks Amazon return policy).
After the experience with these two headsets I decided to increase my budget. This lead me to what I would ultimately purchase, the Turtle Beach PX5. The Turtle Beach headset has been able to meet all of my requirements above and I am absolutely in love with them.
-Comfort. They're very light without feeling cheap. The other headsets I've tried have all been a little on the heavy side which caused them to become uncomfortable quickly.
-Wireless. It uses 2.4GHz wireless which can cause a problem with some people due to interference with routers and other devices. I have my wireless router about 20 feet away through 2 walls and have never had any problems.
-Integrated Microphone. This headset was able to get me as close as possible to a completely seamless microphone setup between all three systems. The headset can pair with up to two Bluetooth devices. This covered the connectivity with the PS3 and PC (via USB Bluetooth dongle), but I was forced to use the chat cable between the headset and the XBOX controller. The large majority of my gaming related chatting has been on the XBOX recently (Call of Duty) and I couldn't stand this cable. Luckily Turtle Beach released a Bluetooth dongle you can buy which plugs into the microphone port on the XBOX controller and can be paired with the PX5 headset. Given I don't use my PS3 nearly as often to chat I purchased this dongle and paired the XBOX to it.
If you've read this far and are still interested here is how I have everything them setup.
I'm routing my consoles and computer (video and audio) through a 3 port auto sensing HDMI switcher which is plugging into a Samsung SyncMaster P2450 monitor. I'm then using the two audio outputs of the monitor to send audio to my speakers (through the analog output) and the Turtle Beach PX5 Transmitter (through the optical output).
Whenever I power on my XBOX or PS3 the HDMI switcher auto senses the new input and places the video on my primary monitor (the Samsung) and routes the audio out through the speakers and to the Turtle Beach transmitter. On my PC I'm using the DVI port on the video card for a second monitor so when I switch on the XBOX or PS3 the PC sees the HDMI port as "inactive" and routes the primary display to the secondary monitor. This is a seamless transition and makes it super convenient to browse the web to look up info on the game I'm playing, when loading times are long or between matches. When I'm done using the XBOX or PS3 I power it off and the HDMI switcher reverts to the last active HDMI input (almost always my PC). The PC sees the HDMI port go active and the primary monitor switches back to it.
Between the PX5's and the Bluetooth dongle my initial budget of $150 turned into right at $250 but I'm very pleased with the headset its functionality and how it's been able to integrate so well with my gaming setup.
I currently use and own Logitech g930 and they are great.Recommend me some Over the ear headphones For PC gaming and daily music use.Must be in the less then $300Bonus if they are wirelessUpdate: ordered a pair of Audio Technica's ATH-m50x, thanks for all the help everyone.
If anyone is interested in what they are looking at...
Desktop
The build cost about $1100 total.
Peripherals
Also Pictured
White tower to the left is my home server. I have about 6TB of storage on it. Runs PLEX, Minecraft, Deluge, and stores tons of files. Black box below that is a UPS that my desktop, server, router and modem are plugged in to.
I picked these up for $80 a few months back. http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Gaming-Headset-Surround/dp/B003VANOFY
Seriously the best head set Ive ever owned. I like it more than my old Razer or any of the Turtle Beach headsets Ive had.
I recommend Logitech g930 or Corsair because they seem to be the most reliable and best value right now. You can get Creative wireless headsets for around the same price but they have much worse sound quality. You can also get very slightly better sounding wireless headphones for about 2-3x the price if you think it's worth it.
Consoles
Xbox One
Modern Warfare 2 Edition Xbox 360
Monitor
ASUS VS248H-P
Controllers
Scuf Hybrid FPS with two paddles, trigger stops, scuf grip, and a Kontrol Freek on the right stick.
Headsets
(Main Headset) Black Kingston HyperX Cloud running throught a 2013 MixAmp
SteelSeries Siberia V2
Astro A40 in White
Microphone
Audio Technica AT2020 USB on a scissor arm clamped to my desk with a popfilter attached.
Webcam
Logitech C920
---
PC that i use here is nothing special, just my ultrabook i use for school and stuff.
Just to clarify, you bought a $150 capture card just to capture camera feed from your iPhone?
If you don't plan on streaming console games and are only using it to capture your camera feed I would highly recommend you return it if you can and just spend the money on an actual webcam. The Logitech c920 is less than half the price and will result in much higher quality video.
Oooh nice. Well congrats. Lots of good info in r/digitalnomad (though that can be more for actively traveling remoters).
I'd encourage you to google a few articles on common pitfalls of remote work to help you avoid. And if you're doing any video conferencing get a nice webcam. I did some research and this HP webcam is about the best bang for your buck.
If you're doing work on the phone, get a nice bluetooth headset that has excellent noise cancelling, so you can take calls in coffee shops/public environments & not worry about background noise.
The C920, which seems like a cheaper model, stands around 80-100$ on Amazon, lowest being 60$
I don't like the index finger marbles... I've played in the past with a thumb-ball, and it's actually a marvel for avoiding repetitive stress injury and actually quite an advantage for sniping as well.
If you find a thumb-ball marble, I strongly suggest giving it a try.
Something like this...
Haha. Oh man, that keyboard is great. Got the matching track ball too.
You insinuating that trackballs are bad? I genuinely love (and have used for the past 3 years) my Logitech M570 and plan on getting the Elecom M-XTv2 so I can switch my M570 to my laptop.
If you're not set on that specific trackball, the Logitech m570 one with a thumb ball has a tealish ball. It's not honestly that great though, in my opinion. It's pretty cheap too. But the ball won't fit that Kensington.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0043T7FXE/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504466566&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=trackball+mouse&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41o8Avio3rL&amp;ref=plSrch
These are very quick searches, I'm at work. But if you've got time, do a little research and see what you come up with.
EDIT: I don't what connector your tablet uses, but I can gurantee you, all of this will cost ~$20-25.
I'm guessing you're not talking about the stick. This gets a lot of love on the HTPC/XBMC subreddits, and rightfully so. I have it and it works amazingly well. It's USB, so while it would work on the FireTV, it would not work on the stick.
Or Just get a HDMI cable, as most hotels have HD tvs
And pair your laptop with this keyboard
http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Keyboard-Multi-Touch-920-003070/dp/B005DKZTMG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1376542567&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=logitech+keyboard+k400
Decent enough. Ignore it being a tablet basically. I hook this up http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Keyboard-Multi-Touch-Touchpad/dp/B005DKZTMG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1425930483&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=logitech+wireless and just use micro HDMI out and I'm set!
I stream Netflix, Twitch, and use Kodi for network mkvs. Does everything I need it to!
If a good quality/price ratio, I suggest the Logitech HD Pro Webcam C920 and the Blue Snowball.
I've got a pair of V-Moda M100s (http://www.amazon.com/V-MODA-Crossfade-Over-Ear-Noise-Isolating-Headphone/dp/B00A39PPCG)
If I were to buy the BoomPro Mic (http://www.amazon.com/V-MODA-BoomPro-Gaming-Headset-Headphone/dp/B00BJ17WKK) and attach it to my headphones, can I just plug that end into the stereo adapter for chat and game audio?
Thank you, I just wanted to know before I bought anything.
That's ok, it has a functional purpose. I did this to connect a boom mic and turn it into a gaming headset.
You might do a deep dive into /r/headphones and you could ask in /r/headphoneadvice — I think what they’ll tell you is that if you were to buy a “gaming headset” with your $300 budget, you end up sacrificing some of your potential sound quality in order to get that microphone attached.
Whereas you can buy a really nice pair of headphones and then spend $30 or less on a V-Moda BoomPro Mic (or something like it) which basically acts as the cord between your headphones and headphone jack and has a flexible boom mic, a volume dial, and a mute switch. There’s another one that you can stick to the side of one of the headphones either with a magnet or sticky too, depending on the type of headphones you buy and what you prefer.
I bought a pair of Fidelio X2/HR headphones that cost $325 just over a year ago, but you can get them for $150 now. Really comfortable band that operates sort of like ski goggles so it doesn’t squish your head, and will fit a fucking watermelon if it needs to. I bought them because I was looking for a “unicorn” that I could wear for movies, games, TV, and music. They sound fantastic, though they’re even better when you plug them into an amp/DAC (I plug them into my home theater receiver’s headphone out jack and crank it up).
Another really highly recommended one are these Sennheiser HD600 Open Back Headphones for $300 from Amazon Prime right now.
Or there’s these BeyerDynamic DT 770 Pro Studio Monitor Headphones that come with an Antlion ModMic so you don’t have to buy the microphone separately, and they’re $189 from Amazon right now, and you could spend the remainder of the $300 on a dedicated headphone amp/DAC that will boost the volume/bass/output and help you get the most from them.
Another popular recommendation is a more traditional gaming headset — the Arctis Steel Series Pro + Game DAC for only $175 — the DAC boosts the headphones and provides DTS:X Headphone (for virtual surround sound). It’s the wired edition, but you could pay more for a wireless if you want.
Anyhow, maybe this will be helpful and give you a couple ideas, but they should help you more in /r/headphone advice if you tell them your budget and what you’re trying to do and what you’re looking for. Read the sidebar so you know the posting format so more people will respond. Hope you enjoy whatever you get! A home theater system is worth saving up for, and eventually you can turn a 5.1 system into a Dolby Atmos system by adding two height channels (so long as you invest in a receiver that is Atmos capable from the start). Come the PS5, I’m hopeful they’ll support it and DTS:X as the XBOX One does now, but they’re also working on their own 3D sound format. Go to a home theater store and have them demo DolbyAtmos for you (especially on a game if possible) and you’ll see how much it adds. You can get a decent home theater system for far cheaper than you used to be able to, but it’s worth it to save up the money and buy something you’re really gonna be proud to own for at least 5-10 years if not longer.
I paired these headphones with this mic. Way better than any headset I've ever owned.
Philips SHP9500
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ENMK1DW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lwEDzbZN6FCRA
V-MODA BoomPro Gaming
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BJ17WKK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_EzEDzb5RSK2HY
Good entry into decent can. Super comfortable for long gaming sessions. Don't need an amp to drive them. Mic is decent, better than most built in headsets. And all on a nice budget.
I think the general advice is to get a nice pair of headphones and use a mic adapter like one of these: https://www.amazon.com/V-MODA-BoomPro-Gaming-Headset-Headphone/dp/B00BJ17WKK
Personally, I got a Logitech G933 on sale during the holidays and am happy with them.
(you never have to start from scratch -- use a USB-to-IDE/SATA cable and mount your dying drive like its external storage. Rescue documents from there.)
My first reaction is, you have 760 gb of data that apparently... isn't backed up? Because if it was, you wouldn't be asking this question... so , that's something really you should deal with.
Second thought it a crossover cable will do exactly what you want to do, but what might be easier (and definitely faster) would be to purchase a sata toaster or at least a sata to usb cable, pull the drive from the old computer, connect by cable and copy the data over.
Edit -> something like this
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
Git is awesome, but switching to Linux is its own project. Limit your scope and focus on one thing.
I would strongly consider getting a new hard drive, like an SSD if you don't already have one.
Take out your old drive and install Linux fresh on the new one. Then access your old files from the old drive via a stata cable.
Invariably there will be stuff you forget, like you personal macro workbook in Excel, or that one folder that you put right on your c drive.
Your total investment will be less than $100 and you'll be a lot happier (and you can switch back if you have an unexpected problem, options are valuable!)
Stata cable example StarTech.com USB 3.0 to 2.5” SATA III Hard Drive Adapter Cable w/ UASP – SATA to USB 3.0 Converter for SSD/HDD - Hard Drive Adapter Cable
If you're encrypting your drives and even you can't pull the data if the drive is removed, you're not doing a good thing imo. The data should just be a SATA-to-USB cable and security key away.
Recently did this very thing on my wife's laptop.
This cable http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZJI84?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00, and a thumb drive with Clonezilla installed is all it took (http://clonezilla.org/). Took about 30 minutes to clone the drive, then physically swapped in the new SSD. 0 problems encountered.
There are plenty of youtube videos that will walk you through the clonezilla process step by step.
If price doesn't matter then DO NOT get a gaming headset. I would recommend a Modmic 5 and a ATH-AD2000X headphone.
Edit:
If you want something more sensible then get a V-MODA mic and a pair of Philips SHP9500
I got a PNY 240GB SSD and just a basic External SSD enclosure, both from my local Best Buy. The enclosure was pretty cheap and i could have probably found it even cheaper on amazon or something but i didn’t want to wait for shipping.
Also: Microsoft says that the Xbox one requires the external drive to be 256GB or more to work, but it’s not true. Like i said, mines a 240GB and it works just fine. At Best Buy, the 240GB was $70 and the 480GB was $130, so it just depends on how much you want to pay.
Edit: I paid like $25 at Best Buy on my enclosure but here’s one on amazon for $10 link
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1538264050&sr=1-5&keywords=sata+to+usb
Picked this up, along with Sabrent enclosure (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TPrzzbWYK4GQK) to house the default HDD that came with my system. Pretty excited to have 5x default storage for less than $75!!
Your friend’s suggestion is smart and its the way to go since your PC will run much faster.
For the HDD yes of course you can use it. Think of the HDD as a flash drive you plug it in and use it as a storage while still keeping the files already in there. I’d recommend deleting the windows folder in the HDD if you had OS installed on it to free up space and install a fresh OS on the SSD.
Edit: You can buy something like this to use your HDD as an external storage if you want to use it as a portable flash drive. Or you can just have it connected to the motherboard of your PC (if its not a laptop) and use it as a 2nd drive besides the SSD.
Sure.
SSD:
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/pny-240gb-internal-sata-solid-state-drive-for-laptops/5900261.p?skuId=5900261
Enclosure:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3KiuCbW4CEPY1
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-250GB-NAND-Internal/dp/B0764WCXCV
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S
me too, totally convinced.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075RJS55D/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
it's lit
SSD: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075RJS55D/ref=pd_gwm_simh_0?pf_rd_p=f9ea941c-301a-45bf-9233-50adcf132422&amp;pf_rd_s=grid-14&amp;pf_rd_t=Gateway&amp;pf_rd_i=mobile-unrec&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=CH9KA40STEAABKDPV6BC&amp;pd_rd_wg=zsgcy&amp;pf_rd_r=CH9KA40STEAABKDPV6BC&amp;pd_rd_r=CH9KA40STEAABKDPV6BC&amp;pf_rd_p=f9ea941c-301a-45bf-9233-50adcf132422&amp;pd_rd_w=z4isw&amp;pd_rd_i=B075RJS55D
Enclosure: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=pd_gwm_simh_0?pf_rd_p=fc67834d-1a4e-443d-a4d4-b4f1372fb3cf&amp;pf_rd_s=grid-15&amp;pf_rd_t=Gateway&amp;pf_rd_i=mobile-unrec&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=CH9KA40STEAABKDPV6BC&amp;pd_rd_wg=zsgcy&amp;pf_rd_r=CH9KA40STEAABKDPV6BC&amp;pd_rd_r=CH9KA40STEAABKDPV6BC&amp;pf_rd_p=fc67834d-1a4e-443d-a4d4-b4f1372fb3cf&amp;pd_rd_w=RJv6E&amp;pd_rd_i=B00OJ3UJ2S
me too, totally convinced.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075RJS55D/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B078WQJXNF/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525515492&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=samsung+evo+ssd+250&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41qR7C253KL&amp;ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=aw_pd_cart_vw_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00OJ3UJ2S&amp;pd_rd_r=ESQX23FQFJXXNE2C9CXB&amp;pd_rd_w=tnA9r&amp;pd_rd_wg=wI1dk&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=ESQX23FQFJXXNE2C9CXB
If you absolutely want an attached Mic, I'd recommend this headset instead:
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/massdrop-x-sennheiser-pc37x-gaming-headset
It's cheaper and has better drivers.
The drivers in it are based on the Sennheiser HD598, which is a an amazing pair of headphones. I personally used the HD598 for many years before getting my HD6XX, and gaming on them was superb. The only drawback is that the bass is a little less punchy than some other headphones, but it's not weak. Overall they're vastly superior to the HD558 drivers used in the headset you're looking at.
---
If a built-in mic isn't super important, and you want a good deal on something even better (the HD650), wait for the HD6XX to become available again (they always come back every couple of months) https://www.massdrop.com/buy/massdrop-sennheiser-hd6xx
For a microphone with the HD6XX, You can get a clip-on Mic such as the Antlion for them, or use a desk mic.
---
For DACs and Amps, I'd recommend either getting the Schiit Modi/Magni combo, or the Fulla 2 if you want an all-in-one solution. I have both (I use the stack at home for gaming/music/media and the Fulla 2 for music at work) and they're both fantastic.
I use sony wh1000mx3 with a V-MODA Boom mic. Works great no voice issues and great sound.
V-MODA BoomPro Microphone for Gaming & Communication - Black https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00BJ17WKK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_o6tNDbMN6TA9M
Mic monitoring was a necessity for me as well, but I ended up just getting open back headphones instead so I could hear myself talk without the need for monitoring. Open back headphones also typically have a better soundstage as well, meaning better directional sound. Great for games.
I use a pair of Philips SHP9500
with a vmoda mic
Honestly, stay away from gaming mics if you are gonna go wired. Get yourself these with this mic.
This combo will be miles and miles ahead of any gaming headset. I went though this dillemma a few years ago and went with this, never looked back.
Status Audio CB-1 + V-Moda BoomPro
This one
If you feel like spending less and 50 bucks is too much for you, get the Sony EMCS3.
If you want to spend more you can get some nice desktop microphone set up.
The ModMic will fit your headphones side instantly since is just a small magnet and the quality of the microphone is professional.
Your headphones are perfect, tho try to reduce a bit the bass since they're bass heavy (but that's up to you).
Your parts list is decent but;
Pioneer XDP100 often goes down to $300 on Amazon, and sometimes down to $250. It does everything you want it to do, and has all the bells and whistles you could want in a DAP (Android for streaming audio, 2 micro SDXC slots, ES9018K2M DAC, zero floor noise even with finicky IEMs, great SQ, DSD capable, supports MQA (sorry /u/Arve) has bluetooth, has a great UI (essentially Android) and plays video too.
Its only major con is that it has decent (but not great) battery life. Also it puts out a max of 75mW per channel at 32 ohms, so obviously not for those high impedance headphones.
Why do I say it is a bargain? I bought mine for full price when it first came out after running through a bunch of Sony internet-enabled DAPs (didnt really love any of them) and I still think it was absolutely worth it. I have two of these loaded up in the SD card slots, so my storage capacity is 432GB, which is more than enough for my needs. I use one SD card to store Tidal + Spotify files offline, another for my music collection, and the on-board memory for a movie or two in case I get bored.
The reason the XDP100 is discounted is because it is now discontinued and replaced by the XDP300. It is exactly the same as the Onkyo DPX1, except the Onkyo is balanced and has twice the output power.
You will need to be patient, but if the XDP100 goes down to $250 again at that price it isn't a deal, it's a steal .
This one
Holy shit, you're right. I had the price of the 128 GB in mind.
The 200 GB SanDisk MicroSD card (the only legit one that exists) is $100.
Yes it can.
Would a 128gb microsd be big enough to get some major games digitally (such as Smash whenever that may come, Splatoon, ARMS)? If so, would this one be a good choice?
TAKE THAT!
(God, I love Phoenix Wright. Anyways. :P)
Good catch. The SD card in the link has 48 MB/s listed in the specs, but the equivalent on amazon lists 80 MB/s. I have a hard time differentiating between all of Sandisk's cards - I kinda wish they would simplify the roster or streamline the site.
https://amazon.com/gp/product/B010Q57S62
is this better?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010Q57S62/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Heres the one to get... Sorry /u/culady.
Edit: and /u/piexil
magicforce 68, also have a look at this cheap MK guide
You can keep the convenience, and have quality.
https://www.amazon.com/V-MODA-BoomPro-Gaming-Headset-Headphone/dp/B00BJ17WKK
Combined with
https://m.newegg.com/products/N82E16826138190
I'd say drop the razer stuff and get something worth your money.
Here are my suggestions:
Mouse - Logitech G502
Keyboard - Corsair K70 RGB/Corsair Strafe RGB
Headphones - Sennheiser HD598; if you want something cheaper - Philips SHP9500 on sale here.
Microphone (clips onto your headphones) - Antlion Mod Mic or Vmoda boom pro if you want something cheaper.
Detachable cord doesn't mean wireless. Many headphones have detachable cords so that the cable can be easily replaced.
No built-in mic. These are headphones, not a headset. Though since the cable is detachable you could add one, e.g.: https://smile.amazon.com/V-MODA-BoomPro-Microphone-Gaming-Communication/dp/B00BJ17WKK
No backup? How dead is the drive, it could be recoverable (or at least some of the data)
I'd suggest getting this SATA to USB 3.0 adapter and pick up/buy/torrent Wondershare Data Recovery
Best of luck, I'll miss your terrific gifs in the interim
Fixed links : https://www.amazon.com/Philips-SHP9500-Precision-Over-ear-Headphones/dp/B00ENMK1DW/
and
https://www.amazon.com/V-MODA-BoomPro-Gaming-Headset-Headphone/dp/B00BJ17WKK/
best headset combo for under 100. period. you're welcome.
L.E. saw this after I posted. Exact thing @decked_out said.
Yep, it's compatible with any headphone/headset as long as it terminates in a 3-pole 3.5mm plug. The product does not come with an adapter for turning 1x audio + 1x mic plug into a single 3-pole plug, so this wouldn't work with - for example - headphones paired with an Antlion ModMic without a TRRS to TRS/TRS adapter of some sort.
I use it with my V-Moda BoomPro and NAD Viso HP50.
Headphones - https://www.amazon.com/Philips-SHP9500S-Precision-Over-ear-Headphones/dp/B00ENMK1DW
Mic - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BJ17WKK/ref=pd_aw_fbt_23_img_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=GZGWYYQJ2284JWHTYPQ7
The only thing you should know is these are open cans, which means they are not outside noise canceling, so if you need the TV sound in the living room for example to be out of your headset, a closed can headset is a better choice. If you have more questions I'm glad to help!
I would recomend THIS headset with THIS Mic
Hey i ended up ordering this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BJ17WKK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1456874279&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=attachable+microphone&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41WfbQw%2Bp8L&amp;ref=plSrch. You have to trim away the plastic around the connecter to the microphone but it works pretty amazingly.
This is what you need. Works great.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BJ17WKK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Budget: Around £50, blew all my money on a GTX 1080
Necessities: The headphones need a 3.5mm jack
Type: Over ear, oval shape, but I'm open to suggestions
Current Headphones: Spare me, but I'm currently using my old Turtle Beach XO Ones - I recently switched to PC from Xbox One. They're decent for sound (Note that I'm no audiophile) but they just aren't practical enough and it's about time I got an upgrade.
What I'm looking to use the headphones for: Gaming, with a bit of music every now and then. I'm looking to buy a V-Moda BoomPro Mic to pair with the headphones and use as a mic, hence why they need to have a 3.5mm jack (Note also that this mic's cable can carry audio, not sure if this can diminish sound quality though?)
They will be used exclusively indoors with my PC.
Location: UK
Honestly, way too much to remember lol.
Most of what I get goes to groceries and bills, but I do remember getting a couple hubs for my farm, a raspberry pi 3 (which I lost...), some headphones and a mic to go with it, a new bed frame, some drill bits for the desk I'm building and I could argue that all of the money to build the desk (~$400 in materials) was originally earned from beermoney. I just put it in my bank account first. And, of course, a bunch more phones.
There's tons more, but my Amazon purchase history is too many pages long to figure out the most notable things.
I use the V-Moda boomMic, which is hard to get to work with Sennheisers, because of the plugs
My second point is that Sennheiser alone has about 3-4, if not more, different types of plugs, instead of the industry settling on one standard, like 3.5mm or maybe 4 pin XLR, so I would have to own at least two different cables for the few headphones I own.
Edit: Better to read now
Most comfortable headphones I have ever worn also. As long as you know what you are getting with an open-back headphone, but soundstage is great. Has helped tons in online FPS gaming in knowing where people/shots are coming from
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826138190&amp;cm_re=philips_shp9500-_-26-138-190-_-Product
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00BJ17WKK/ref=dp_olp_0?ie=UTF8&amp;condition=all&amp;qid=1525991239&amp;sr=8-1
you can use this teardown to get to the harddrive and stick it into a desktop or use a Sata to usb adaptor, or a enclosure to get at your files from another computer
I have this same laptop and it's working perfectly well after upgrading both the RAM and the SSD. Upgrading to an SSD will greatly decrease the boot time of the laptop and adding more RAM will help to make the laptop snappier overall. The first step I would take would be to put an SSD in the laptop, especially considering the horribly long boot times you're experiencing, but both will
Adding RAM will be the easiest change for your laptop, as it doesn't require any transferring of files. I personally have 16 GB of ram in my laptop (2 x 8GB) but in the interest of saving money, you may want to get one 8GB stick of RAM and upgrade again down the line if you desire. When shopping for RAM, you want to make sure that you have a SODIMM sized stick, and that it's running at 1600 MHz speed. Here is an option from Amazon, but you may be able to find other options for cheaper (this was just the first thing I found). You just want to ensure that the RAM you buy is a SODIMM module and is running at 1600 MHz. Assuming the 4GB is in the form of 2 x 2GB sticks, you will have 10 GB of RAM total after installing the new module.
You can easily find videos on how to install RAM on the internet, but as a quick explanation:
You should now be able to go to "About the Mac" then to Memory, and see a 2GB and 8GB (if you get an 8GB stick) module show up.
As for the SSD, it can be a bit more complicated depending on how you want to go about doing it. If you care about all of the data on your old drive, you can clone it using a cloning software. If not, you can copy important files onto a flash drive or external hard drive to paste back into the new installation of macOS.
But first, you need to get the SSD itself. The Samsung 850 Evo is very well liked across the internet and the drive that I personally used. You can get it in whatever capacity you need. That being said, there are other options of SSDs that will be less expensive while still being a massive upgrade over the spinning disk drive that you likely already have. If you do searching around the internet, the only thing you need to be careful of is that the SSD has a SATA connector and isn't a m.2 drive. You'll also need a SATA to USB cable like This
The way I would recommend replacing the drive would be to do a fresh install of macOS, keeping a backup of your important files.
You want to start by plugging the SSD into the SATA to USB cable and the cable into your laptop. Then, open Disk Utility (either by using a spotlight search or finding it in the "Other" folder of the application display (hit the F4 function key)) Once you have disk utility open, you want to find the SSD on the left drop-down menu and erase it. This will format it to be usable as a boot disk for macOS. Note: it's possible that it will work without doing this but I am unsure and think it would be good to be safe here to save the time of having to change it.
As with the RAM, you can probably easily find a video showing how to do it, but I will also list the rest of the steps as I remember them.
Once the new drive is in, you can reboot the laptop and hit the Option key to bring up a boot menu. You should see something that says "Choose a Network" and you can sign into your WiFi to continue. From there you will able to use network recovery to reinstall macOS.
I hope this is helpful and good luck! I'm glad I'm not the only one still using a 2012 MBP :)
edit: formatting, a word
That’s pricey, but I have to say it’s worth it.
My setup is:
Improvement is seen when the game is searching for DLC, though my main motivation was loading times in “The Witcher 3”
That cable I can’t recommend because after a couple of years, it needs a replacement, apparently it broke internally and it works only when placed in a certain position.
Your solution looks like a better idea if you don’t mind the price. Make sure the cable for that device is easily replaceable.
Yes and no. That one wouldn't work but there are products like it that have the 22-pin sata connections that HDD and SSDs use. Also make sure to get a USB 3.0 or 3.1 model.
They also make enclosures that fit 2.5" (laptop size) drives so that you can turn them into portable hard drives.
Let's see I should have the one that i bought in my amaz history...
Yep. It's out of stock now. But here's a similar one.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB3S2SAT3CB-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/
Out of curiosity what are you using it for?
Looks like Crucial gives you free access to Acronis.
https://www.acronis.com/en-us/promotion/CrucialHD-download/
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
Being a laptop I am assuming it is a 2.5 inch sata drive this right here would save you a big head ache. https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-USB-Cable-USB3S2SAT3CB/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=sata+to+usb&qid=1565207854&s=gateway&sr=8-3
It would allow you to remove that drive and plug it into a different computer allow you to hopefully recover your data.
Why not just an ssd with a USB adapter? Would certainly be better for lifespan.
Something like this: StarTech USB 3.0 to 2.5" SATA III Hard Drive Adapter Cable w/ UASP - SATA to USB 3.0 Converter for SSD/HDD - Hard Drive Adapter Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IuftxbXK8EBP4
I have a friend that uses one of those for a Windows 10 install that he can carry around for when he needs it.
well, there actually are SATA to USB cables, but I suppose it'll be easier (and cheaper, duh) to do what Graguan suggested
P.S. dont refer to a laptop as PC, as PC stands for personal computer, or a desktop (that's why i suggested that idea im the first place)
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-75E250B-AM/dp/B00OAJ412U/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1517587453&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=ssd+250&amp;dpID=319X5owiyFL&amp;preST=_SX300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1517587548&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=usb+3.0+external+ssd+enclosure
I use one of these for multiple drives and all is required is the included cable. I’m sure there are plenty others. I’ve used this for SSDs on Xbox and on PC as well as using one for regular 2.5” drives.
I know there are some SSDs that are a little fatter than others but I think there’s more than enough room for them to fit in an enclosure like this.
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-2-5-serial-ata-hard-drive-enclosure-black/5820005.p?skuId=5820005
If you prefer Amazon, here’s one that would work as well.
Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-Free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized for SSD, Support UASP SATA III] Black (EC-UASP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_N0RHDbZBRMR6C
I would pull the storage drive from 2nd computer, install it in the first and do the transfer over SATA. If there's not enough power plugs or SATA ports, then I'd look into a cheap SATA to USB 3.0 enclosure or dock. Alternatively, if both PCs have ethernet you can transfer over the LAN, though Gigabit LAN is going to top out at 120ish MB/s.
First of all stop using it and shut the computer down. If the drive is on the verge of failing, which it sounds like it is, you don't want to push it over the edge.
Remove the drive from the computer following this guide, put that drive into one of these and connect it to another computer. You can then pull off all of the photos, etc.
While you still have the mac open, put one of these in it. From there just install a fresh copy of Mac OS and you'll be back in action with a computer that will be noticeably faster. It's like night and day performance wise.
Besides crazy customers, there are some accessories that use type A on both sides.
For example, this hard drive enclosure:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/
1TB is overkill. This is the cheapest option.
256gb SSD
Silicon Power 256GB SSD 3D NAND A55 SLC Cache Performance Boost SATA III 2.5" 7mm (0.28") Internal Solid State Drive (SP256GBSS3A55S25) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RJS55D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xid8Bb43QBJW7
Case you need to install it
Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized For SSD, Support UASP SATA III] Black (EC-UASP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cld8Bb7RJJNAJ
If you insist on getting 1TB (still need case)
Silicon Power 1TB SSD 3D NAND A55 SLC Cache Performance Boost SATA III 2.5" 7mm (0.28") Internal Solid State Drive (SP001TBSS3A55S25) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B4G19X3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mrd8BbVSPCCQ7
Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized For SSD, Support UASP SATA III] Black (EC-UASP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_APP-Bb41AX556
You have two main options (that I know of and have used):
FIRST, attach the new drive and format to Mac OS Extended (Journaled) via Disk Utility -> select new drive -> Erase -> select format Mac OS Extended (Journaled). OR, if you have already converted your disk to APFS when upgrading to High Sierra or Mojave, choose APFS.
Then:
Reuse the laptop hard drive that you are taking out with something like this. It's a simple enclosure that you just slide your laptop hard drive into and turn on and you've got an external drive.
If you don't want to open up your laptop, you could buy a 2.5 Inch ssd and an enclosure
Which model G3 15 do you have? You probably have a slot for an m.2 SSD, so you wouldn't have to replace your hard drive.
For an Xbox or PS4 you don't need the highest end.
Ssd: 1tb https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D998212/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hglWCb4JE43CJ
SSD
Case: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JklWCbPKETZGN
I have 3 of these cases, I use a 480gb SSD on my oneX and I have a 240gb SSD for my wife's oneS.
The Xbox One OS takes about 200GB's of space if your using this drive as a main drive, so..no, you wouldn't really be able to install anything involving games onto it at least.
You'd be much better off with keeping the 1TB HDD in the One X, and buying a separate USB 3.0 enclosure instead to put the SSD inside of it so you can use the full 240GB's of space on the SSD.
Something like this would probably be far better suited for you, so you don't have to take apart the entire Xbox One X.
I just got this case for my SSD this weekend. HUGE improvement in Destiny 2.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1FJOY4LKJOQYV&keywords=hard+drive+enclosure&qid=1570481532&sprefix=hard+%2Caps%2C141&sr=8-3
Seagate 1TB BarraCuda SATA 6Gb/s 128MB Cache 2.5-Inch 7mm Internal Hard Drive (ST1000LM048) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYNQXCP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NCtRAbT2Y2BSS
Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized For SSD, Support UASP SATA III] Black (EC-UASP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RDtRAb2KYD747
UGREEN USB 3.0 A to A Cable Type A Male to Male Cable Cord for Data Transfer Hard Drive Enclosures, Printers, Modems, Cameras (1.5FT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P0E3954/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IEtRAb2YTE8CB
Something like this.
Samsung 850 EVO 250GB
You will need an enclosure for it.
I did this recently, the best option is a mix of both.
An internal SSD for games you're currently playing, and you can use the Pro's current HDD as an external for games you play less often (it's fairly quick to move a game from one to the other).
SSDs have dramatically dropped in price and are now very affordable, here's a 1TB SDD for $120 from the most reputable brand on the market.
The old HDD can be used as an external by putting it in a USB 3.0 enclosure/caddy like this one.
Here's the official article for replacing the HDD. It says to push the notch to the left, but it's easier pushing it towards the bottom (up on that diagram).
If you want to go cheap...$29.99
https://www.amazon.com/Silicon-Power-Performance-Internal-SP256GBSS3A55S25/dp/B075RJS55D/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=ssd&amp;qid=1555536783&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-13
Also need an enclosure, $8.99:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3ETX6BEBDH1ZB&amp;keywords=ssd+enclosure&amp;qid=1555536860&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=ssd+enc%2Caps%2C210&amp;sr=8-4
Yup, what he said. You can grab something like the following to put your ssd into. Connect, run ccc. Make sure it's bootable then install.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519721240&amp;sr=1-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31nOEoFxlKL&amp;ref=plSrch
I got this setup a month ago and it works great.
SSD:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075RJS55D/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Enclosure:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I bought this one: Samsung 850 EVO. It was the recommendation of another reddit user, seems like it works fine!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OAJ412U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Here's the case, really easy to set up.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_bAqpP1_c_x_2_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&amp;pf_rd_r=SN40CBA7ZVRPM80WY9CH&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=114a7679-8c11-50c9-8bdc-cf1401ec2585&amp;pf_rd_i=160354011
Here's what I did, worked for me:
Backup your files( lots of ways, cloud, external).
Order new external SSD (mine was Corsair 480gb)
Put new SSD in external enclosure and plug into USB:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1500516994&amp;amp;sr=1-3&amp;amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;amp;dpPl=1&amp;amp;dpID=31nOEoFxlKL&amp;amp;ref=plSrch
format SSD using disk utility and make bootable. create 12gb partition on the SSD drive at this point for OS and download macOS to this partition and whatever else you want to do to this drive.
Now, safely remove SSD from enclosure, swap the SSD into the MacBook and put original HDD into enclosure.
Install macOS from new internal SSD, plug in enclosure and copy files over you want using migration assistant.
Now, you can keep your files backed up on your new external drive or format it, if you please.
Also, if you are taking all this time, I recommend at least 8gb of ram and you will get optimal speeds.
Hope this helps.
Here's a video:
https://youtu.be/cfiGF_pjqvM
You should be able to put the hard drive in a housing like this and access the data on it directly. If you're not comfortable doing it yourself, any computer shop should be able to do it for you for a nominal fee.
An enclosure for it is pretty cheap
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1