(Part 2) Best computer accessories & peripherals according to redditors

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We found 68,633 Reddit comments discussing the best computer accessories & peripherals. We ranked the 13,203 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

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Subcategories:

Computer cables & adapters
Gaming peripherals
Computer input devices
Computer monitor accessories
Blank media products
Computer cleaning & repair products
Memory cards
Computer UPS units
Computer security cables
Computer audio & video accessories
Computer hard drive accessories
Keyboards & mice
Computer memory card accessories
USB gadgets
USB hubs

Top Reddit comments about Computer Accessories & Peripherals:

u/BKoster98 · 355 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Specs: Raspberry Pi Zero W running Raspbian. I have a generic case that I found at Microcenter that came with a heat sync. Samba is installed for windows file sharing. Pi VPN is also installed for access from anywhere. Two hard drive enclosures form amazon with a few hard drives I had lying around: 1TB (left) and a 320GB (right). The fan is an Arctic Breeze Mobile and I also have a USB to Ethernet adapter. Everything is connected to a 7 hub Anker powered USB hub. The fan is probably overkill but whatever, it looks cool.

​

Guides I followed to get it all up and running:

How To Geek: How to Turn a Raspberry Pi into a Low-Power Network Storage Device

Combining the two different hard drives to appear as one

Setting up OpenVPN with PiVPN

​

Edit: Added Amazon links - I didn't buy everything from amazon but this is easiest. Some things aren't the exact ones shown but close enough.

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Edit Edit: Added links to the guides I followed

​

Edit\^3: Thank you all for the support and my first Gold! I didn't think this would get as much support as it has gotten! :)

​

Last Edit hopefully: I apologize I called it a "Cloud" Server. It has stirred up some debate on whether or not it is. I called it a "cloud" server because I can access it from anywhere.

u/Ninjaivxx · 324 pointsr/gaming

You can buy a credit card size pc called a raspberry pi for $35 plus SD card plus power cable. You can then install pi hole which blocks ads on your home network. So your cell phone won't see ads your pc won't see ads. Your dad's best friends roommate from college who is on your network won't see ads. Pretty fucking sweet.

edit some links
pi hole https://pi-hole.net

Raspberry pi with power and case https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01C6EQNNK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1496894828&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=raspberry+pi+3&dpPl=1&dpID=61Kje-Jv3AL&ref=plSrch

SD card https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010Q57T02/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1496895065&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=class+10+micro+sd+card&dpPl=1&dpID=41f2SZSqv6L&ref=plSrch

u/crash822 · 221 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I have a small desk and bought something like this https://www.amazon.com/Number-Jelly-Comb-Mechanical-Numeric/dp/B01E8U8HKW

Being able to move it around helps.

u/Fwcasey · 126 pointsr/buildapc
u/frem19 · 74 pointsr/buildapcsales

If you're looking at something to wear all day, and I mean all day then these are it, so incredibly comfy.

EDIT1: YMMV some below have said they have found others comfier so do some research and maybe buy a few, compare, and keep your favorite pair. Others suggested the AKG K7XX, the HD598, and the SHP9500.

EDIT2: Wire is removeable although long, 10ft/3m I believe, other sizes can be purchased although not universal since it's 2.5mm to 3.5mm. just search 558 or 598 cable

EDIT3: I don't own a mic other than the one built into my webcam. I have read up on the modmic which you can attach the headphones and something stand alone would be a blue [snowball] (https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Snowball-iCE-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B014PYGTUQ/ref=lp_2586045011_1_1?srs=2586045011&ie=UTF8&qid=1503600799&sr=8-1) or a yeti. There's a 4th option but you will have to mod the headphones sorta using the v-moda boompro, you'll have to google that. Good luck!

EDIT4: These are open headphones, unlike the Audio-Technica ATH-M50x's so that means sound does leak, and they're not isolating unless very loud. Check out reviews there are plenty of comparisons and youtube videos out there.

u/LORD_STABULON · 50 pointsr/gaming

At first I was surprised as well, but the more I think about it, it makes sense.

The NES Classic is selling like hotcakes because of hype. When the hype dies, the sales fall off a cliff. I really don't know anything at all about their supply chain, but it seems that Nintendo has been increasingly reliant on "off-the-shelf" hardware ever since the Wii. For example, there was a little "ATI" logo stamped on the Wii because Nintendo used a regular graphics card for that console, and so ATI "owned" part of that device.

So I'm guessing they don't have a ton of vertical integration for hardware manufacturing. Compare that to Apple, which has been aggressively working to own as much of their hardware manufacturing process as possible, even going as far as to manufacture their own CPUs (iPhones have an "A9" chip or whatever, while other smartphones just buy hardware from companies like Samsung, AMD, nVidia, Qualcomm, etc).

The downside of 100% vertical integration is that if Nintendo wanted to make a new Zelda, they would have to control, manage, and pay for everything that Zelda runs on-- the silicon, the enclosure, the LCD screens, the joysticks, even the plastic game cases and printing of brochures. It's insane when you think about it. The upshot is that when you have complete control over everything, you can "stop the presses" at a moment's notice.

So Nintendo doesn't do vertical integration. Again, I have no insider info, but it's become increasingly clear simply by Googling around. For example here's a Polygon article that shows the NES classic is just a bunch of off-the-shelf hardware crammed into an offically trademarked plastic box. And this makes perfect sense. It's also notable that the Nintendo Switch is also completely outsourced, from the nVidia graphics to the USB-C port, microSD slot, Bluetooth, HDMI, etc.

It makes sense for them too-- they're a software company that happens to be in the advantageous position of being able to make such incredibly high quality software that people are willing to buy custom hardware just to play it. Imagine if EA Games tried to sell a console, and it was the only way to play games featuring their intellectual property. Holy shit, that would be their single biggest blunder.

But I digress: The NES Classic is "Nintendo" only in terms of IP. They're just buying electronics from various hardware manufacturers, gluing them together, installing an emulator, and slapping their logo on it. It's a fun product, but we all know it isn't going to last. And here's the thing: Nintendo surely gets a better deal on all this third-party hardware than you or I would, but only because they're placing massive bulk orders.

And that's the kicker, in my opinion. They might have sold a ton of NES Classic consoles, but the holiday season is over and the hype is sure to die soon. Say they placed an initial order for 500 million "Mali400MP2" GPUs to build all these cute little consoles, and they got a quote from the manufacturer saying it would cost 50 cents per unit. Good news: They recovered that 250 million cost by completely selling out! But they know the hype is going to die, and buying another 500 million seems like it might be overkill. Maybe they order 250 million. Except now that the order is smaller, the cost per unit has jumped up to 75 cents per unit (I am completely making these numbers up).

So it's a gamble that gets increasingly risky the longer you play. They already made a ton of money from the NES Classic, but as the hype dies, they'll have to make smaller orders and the cost per unit is going to increase. My guess is that they're still licking their wounds from what happened with the Wii. Those things sold shockingly well, until they woke up one morning and suddenly nobody wanted a Wii anymore. I bet that there was a very specific "oh shit" day at Nintendo HQ when they saw that Wii sales had plummeted while they had millions of optimistically-built units sitting in their warehouses.

To me, cancelling the NES Classic is a good example of "quit while you're ahead". I can't imagine how much the Wii is still burned into the memory of every executive at Nintendo. They built something so popular that it became a global social phenomenon, and then suddenly it just died, and they had their worst fiscal year in ages. Because they'd bought and assembled a bunch of Wiis that would never be sold.

I'll admit that this is way too long of a response to "WHY!?!?" but I do find it interesting. I'm only just starting to understand terms like "vertical integration" myself, but it does help to clarify why certain things are the way they are. Comparing Nintendo to Apple is very illuminating. Both companies have insane brand recognition, but they do business very differently. Ever since Steve Jobs died and Tim Cook became the CEO, people have been predicting the death of Apple. Instead, their stock price has more than doubled since the day he died. Jobs was the charismatic leader, but Cook is the king of the supply chain. He's pushed for vertical integration, and it's been working beautifully. Apple makes a crap product like the Watch? They just scale back production.

Because of vertical integration, Apple can fine-tune their manufacturing to such a precise degree that they'll keep selling Apple Watches right up until the last profitable watch is sold, even though it's clearly a failing product. On the other hand, Nintendo sells products that they don't build, so they have nowhere near the degree of granularity when it comes to predicting how their things will sell tomorrow. Neither company can predict the future, but Apple can change everything in a relative instant, while Nintendo has to make an educated guess about how the world is going to look 6 months down the line.

Also, I'm guessing the cancellation of the NES classic is going to conveniently correspond to a sudden influx of Classic NES games being sold for the Switch on the Nintendo eShop, along with various limited-edition consoles and themed peripherals. That being said, I fucking love Nintendo and hope I can die without seeing them go out of business. People who claim that the Switch is currently a $350 Zelda game are basically right, and I don't give a flying fuck. 100% worth it.

On a final note, if you wanted an NES Classic and couldn't get one or don't want to get price-gouged from a hoarder-reseller, I'd do this:

  1. Buy a Raspberry Pi 3
  2. Put it in an NES Case
  3. You could buy 2 USB NES Controllers for the price of a fancy sandwich, but why not class it up a bit and get some Bluetooth SNES Controllers? Also, if you have unused PS3 controllers laying around and don't mind the lack of authenticity, skip this step.
  4. Buy a microSD card (32 gb is massive overkill for NES ROMs, but if you bought nicer controllers then you'll probably find yourself wanting to try out some SNES/N64/Playstation games)
  5. Download lakka.tv and follow the very simple installation instructions.
  6. Get NES ROMs from the internet, they're almost easier to find than porn.

    Total cost (including the NES controllers and the microSD card) rounds up to $85. And a cheaper Pi will play NES games just fine, nor do you HAVE to buy the $20 NES-themed plastic case I just randomly found on Amazon. Plus you're not limited to the games that were included on the NES Classic, and once you get bored with playing 30 year-old games there are plenty of other things to do with a Pi... Like write unnecessarily long Reddit posts, which I've just finished doing!
u/IForgotMyPasswordGrr · 42 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

You can already buy them stupid cheap. I have two SanDisk 256GB cards I got for $33 each. One is in my Switch. The other is in a drawer until I figure out what to use it for. Maybe my PSP.

Amazon had the 400GB card on sale the other day for $46

The 512GB card was on sale yesterday for $57.

Anything small, 8GB, 16GB, 32GB, 64GB can be had for like $16 or less.

128GB for like $25



400GB - $57

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074RNRM2B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9we3Cb75R3QBB

256GB - $38

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0758NHWS8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nwe3CbRK04R5Q

200GB - $33

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JY5T7T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.ye3CbS3CT6AH

128GB - $20

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JYC4XM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Mxe3CbAWACBJR

64GB - $12

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JYVKNX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9ze3CbBCX3549

32GB - $7

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JWXGNT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AAe3CbBV81WFY

16GB - $6

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073K14CVB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1Ae3CbG0JXK3K

Not sure how much cheaper you expect them to get.

u/giraffenstein · 39 pointsr/buildapc

My most recent gaming mice are the Logitech G400, which has the advantages of solid construction and a nice heft:

http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Optical-Gaming-High-Precision-910-002277/dp/B0055QZ216

http://gaming.logitech.com/en-us/product/g400s-optical-gaming-mouse

And the Razer Deathadder, which I'm almost positive is the 2013 edition:

http://www.razerzone.com/gaming-mice/razer-deathadder

http://www.amazon.com/Razer-DeathAdder-Essential-Ergonomic-RZ01-00840100-R3U1/dp/B00AAS888S

In general Razer and Logitech both make a solid mouse, and since it sounds like you're already a happy Razer customer, I wouldn't hesitate much to go with the DA 2013. If you did hesitate, I've been salivating just a little over Zowie mice:

http://www.zowiegear.com/index.php?i=products&p=1

I haven't actually gamed with one and can't personally comment on their performance, but you should at least take a look. They're apparently designed with Counter-Strike and Starcraft especially in mind, if those games are your thing.

Edit: Forgot to mention the G500, which can be generally thought of as a single step upgrade from the G400 in quality and price:

http://gaming.logitech.com/en-us/product/g500s-laser-gaming-mouse

If you're looking at the 400, make sure to consider the 500 as well.

As a former Naga user, the extra macro keys on the G600 might interest you:

http://gaming.logitech.com/en-us/product/g600-mmo-gaming-mouse

edit2: This is all assuming you want to move on fron the Razer Naga. They still sell it; in fact, they sell multiple versions. If it made you happy, there's nothing stopping you from just buying another one.

u/koottravel · 38 pointsr/onebag

This usb fan. I've had so many uncomfortably hot nights, especially while staying in pod dorms without fans built in. This thing is light, well built, and provides a surprising amount of cooling breeze.

u/shnackaran · 37 pointsr/cscareerquestions

I am honestly struggling with the abundance of mechanical keyboard suggestions. I don’t use one, and very few people at my workplace use one. I will say that unless there’s some significant ergonomic benefit that I’m missing, the “pro” of having a keyboard that feels great comes at the heavy expense of potentially annoying the hell out of your colleagues with the noise. It depends if your friend works remotely or in an office, but I can say that in an office environment a mechanical keyboard seems like a disrespectful move in my personal and professional opinion.

Three things I can suggest that are each universally useful and cheap are a cable keeper, a USB hub, and this specific stress ball. I love this stress ball because it has such an awesome squishy texture to it. Unfortunately you don’t get to pick the color (not the slightest idea why) but most people end up getting a black one, myself included.

u/78OC · 35 pointsr/nintendo

wow thank you. I saw this, went to amazon.ca (canadian) and it was on sale there too. I bought it within 2 minutes of seeing this thread. Thanks!!!

List Price: CDN$ 107.80

Deal Price: CDN$ 64.99 & FREE Shipping.

You Save: CDN$ 42.81 (40%)

https://www.amazon.ca/SanDisk-Ultra-microSDXC-Adapter-SDSQUAR-200G-GN6MA/dp/B073JY5T7T/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511458096&sr=8-1&keywords=sandisk+200

For Canadians :)

Edit: and now today (on black Friday) the price went up! Gross!

u/queuebitt · 34 pointsr/NintendoSwitchDeals

SanDisk Ultra 200GB microSDXC UHS-I Card - $29.21 (26% off)

  • $0.15/GB
  • 100MB/s read speed (real world testing closer to 85MB/s)

    SanDisk Ultra 400GB microSDXC UHS-I Card - $62.30 (34% off)

  • $0.16/GB
  • 100MB/s read speed (real world testing closer to 85MB/s)

    Both are near Black Friday value per GB. The majority of "all digital games" Switch owners should be happy with the 200GB. Those with a mix of physical and digital are usually fine with 128GB. But if you need a new card the 200GB is worth considering at only $8 more.

    The Switch only supports up to 104MB/s max read speed. Eurogamer found only a 0.3 second load time difference between a 30MB/s card and a 90MB/s card. For most users you want to consider capacity (how much do you need) and value (cost per GB), not speed.
u/elessarjd · 34 pointsr/hardware

Yep, the G400. I switched from a 518 to it and haven't looked back. It's the same shape and button layout, but more precise.
*edit: wrong product name

u/fivetwofoureight · 31 pointsr/buildapcsales

Seems like most 64gb microsd are under $25. The one on Amazon is $22.

EDIT: price history. Was as low as $15 during the holiday season.

u/VirtualRealityOasis · 27 pointsr/oculus

If you don't want to watch the video that's cool, here's a summary;

Over the last few months I've been testing various cables for use with my four sensor setup. What I quickly discovered was that not all cables are created equal in the eyes of the Oculus Rift!

The Rift and Sensors can be a bit stubborn when it comes to cables. Some work intermitantly, some report USB 3.0 as USB 2.0, some give audio issues when using with the Rift and some just point blank refused to work.

I think I've finally nailed down the best cables which I've personally tested and would recommend to use with your Rift.

Due to the summer sale I know we have an influx of new Rift users so hopefully this guide helps.

Here's the links where you can buy these cables for yourself;

Cable Matters USB 3.0 3M /10FT Extension Cable:

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=pe_1909131_77697001_tnp_email_TE_AMZLdp_3?th=1

US - https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503739950&sr=8-1&keywords=cable+matters+superspeed+usb+3.0

KabelDirekt 2m / 6FT HDMI Extension Cable:

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B013ICN59Y/ref=pe_1909131_77697001_tnp_email_TE_AMZLdp_2

US - https://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-Extension-Cable-1080p-Ethernet/dp/B012ASNHIG/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503740842&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=kabeldirekt+2m+extension

DVI to HDMI Adapter:

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00ZMVGTA2/ref=pe_1909131_77697001_tnp_email_TE_AMZLdp_1

US - https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-2-Pack-Gold-Plated-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00ZMVGTA2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503740883&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=DVI+to+HDMI+adapter&psc=1

CableCreation 5M / 16FT USB 3.0 Active Extension Cable (Fine For Sensors BUT Causes Audio Issues When Using With Rift):

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/CableCreation-Active-Extension-Extender-Female/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1503740956&sr=8-7&keywords=cable+creations+usb+3.0

US - https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Active-Extension-Extender-Female/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503740977&sr=8-1&keywords=cablecreation+usb+3.0

UGREEN 5M / 16FT USB 3.0 Active Extension Cable (Additional Power Micro USB Port isn't required when using the Rift. Do not use this with the Rift as may cause damage)

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/UGREEN-Extension-Amplifier-PlayStation-loudspeakers/dp/B01FQ88CE6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503741031&sr=8-2&keywords=ugreen+oculus+cable

US - https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Extension-Repeater-Amplifier-Superspeed/dp/B01FQ88CE6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1503741078&sr=8-5&keywords=ugreen%2Busb%2B3.0%2Bextension&th=1

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI 4.6M / 15FT Cable:

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B014I8TOTC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

US - https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Rated-Wall-Installation-Cable/dp/B014I8TOTC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503741177&sr=8-2&keywords=AmazonBasics+High-Speed+HDMI+CL3+Cable

Mini HDMI Repeater Extender:

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Repeater-Extender-130FT-Support-Switch/dp/B01MDS8DJH/ref=sr_1_11?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503740907&sr=1-11&keywords=hdmi+repeater

US - https://www.amazon.com/COWEEN-Repeater-Amplifier-Extender-Transmission/dp/B01GHL72XS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1503740927&sr=8-3&keywords=hdmi+repeater

Hope this helps :)

u/mikegriffin84 · 25 pointsr/oculus

This is what I have experimented with and works great on multiple systems... For you look at step 2 and 3.

1st GET A THIRD SENSOR IF YOU WANT TRUE ROOMSCALE "they are on backorder at the moment"

2nd Get three of these for your sensors to make sure they can reach anywhere you want them too: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3rd Get 2 of these to completely isolate all of you VR components from the sometimes janky unreliable USB ports on A LOT of motherboards that cannot supply enough power and/or bandwidth for all of the cameras and HMD to work properly I chose this card because it only has two ports and both of those ports work no matter if you plug in 2 sensors or 1 sensor and the HMD. The Inatek card DOES have issues for somewhere some ports work and others do not and are still only being able to run 2 sensors off the Inatek card and having to run the HMD and 3rd sensor off the motherboard. The Orico card just works and you don't have to think about experimenting with ports just plug everything into the two Orico cards in any configuration and go. Also use the default Windows drivers whether you go with the Inatek or Orico card only upgrade after trying the defaults drivers without success: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AVSN2YG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

4th This is optional. One of these for extending your HMD HDMI cable by 15ft for a total of 28ft: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008D5EUD2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

5th This repeater is required to make the HDMI cable above work, but with this repeater, the extension is flawless: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHL72XS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

6th To extend the Rift HMD USB I use the USB 2.0 Active Extension Monoprice Repeater Cable that comes with the 3rd sensor it is 16ft long, works perfectly. Then I used a small piece of electrical tape every 6 inches from the HMD to the PC to make the extended HMD cable one piece leaving about 2 ft of cable loose at the end to be able to plug in wherever I want.
I did a lot of research bought the Inateck and Orico USB add-on cards, multiple active USB extensions, multiple different HDMI adapters and extensions of varying lengths, Display port to HDMI adapters, DVI to HMDI adapters, and did all the experimentation and testing required to make all this work. The list I listed above works every time on multiple systems in different environments, rooms, and households.
If you need clarification on anything and/or want more information, feel free to respond or message me. I will gladly help.

After you get your USB cards installed and you sensors plugged in with the hardware I listed above reboot the system and the follow the below instructions.

Also when you get your stuff after everything is installed and setup do this as a last step for good measure:
Once the sensor setup has fully completed, search for PowerShell in the Windows start menu, right click it, and click 'Run as administrator'
Copy all of this PowerShell script (hit Ctrl-A, then Ctrl-C), then paste it into the PowerShell window (Ctrl-V), then hit Enter
Once it has completed, close PowerShell and restart your computer (this is important)
Here is the link to the script, just copy all the text on the page and past it into powershell: http://pastebin.com/raw/9f9MMny1
This basically sets all of your usb cards and ports to a high power no sleep mode and assures that Windows doesn't try to manage your usb's at the wrong time in the wrong way. I am not sure if I needed to do this but I just did it for good measure. I did all of the manually until I found this script that somebody else on reddit made. Just makes it quicker and easier than changing all the settings one by one.

Note if you haven't done this already you can do it now with your current setup to see if it helps "Probably won't but it may"

u/OfficerNelson · 25 pointsr/legaladvice

This bears repeating for everyone: if you do not have a dash cam, get a dash cam. $45 + $13.

u/Tankbot85 · 25 pointsr/techsupportmacgyver

If there is a USB port on the switch, get this.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XN24GY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These fans are amazing. 1 of them keep my network equipment cool. Works like a champ.

u/MrGulio · 24 pointsr/buildapc

No G400? The spiritual successor to the MX 518.

  • 3600 DPI Optical
  • 8 Programable Buttons
  • Hand Form Fitting Shape (Not good for Lefties)
  • $35

    From a DPI standpoint it's on par with the Deathadder but $15 cheaper, I guess it would depend on your grip preference though.
u/st1tchy · 22 pointsr/NintendoSwitchDeals

Do you mind changing the link to an Amazon Smile link? Amazon donates a tiny amount to the charity of the buyers choice.

https://smile.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-microSDXC-Adapter-SDSQUAR-256G-GN6MA/dp/B073JY5T7T?ref_=Oct_DLandingS_PC_d4963fc2_NA&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1

u/Blindman213 · 22 pointsr/pcmasterrace

That's not a UPS. UPS is Uninterruptible Power Supply. Essentially a surge protector with a battery that, assuming it doesnt trip/blow due to an electrical surge, can keep you PC running for a few minutes so you can do a clean shutdown and clean you normal power so your components last longer.

This is the one I use. It is the cheapest SINEWAVE UPS you can get (long story short, pure sinewave is better for your components). If you just want a cheap backup, this one is also good.

As a side note before i get spammed, yes I know the one I use isn't a true sinewave, but is infact many, many rapid steps that for all intents and purposes creates a sinewave.

u/kuraix · 22 pointsr/buildapcsales

I'm afraid that's not really an offer. As TranQLizer said, they're going for $10 regularly.

This is an offer: SanDisk 32GB Micro SD + adapter at 80MB/s, $7.99.

___
ALERT ALERT

As u/Dangerosity mentioned the seller has iffy ratings, it's sketchy as FUCK.

I recommend this one: Samsung EVO 32GB Micro SD + adapter at 48MB/s, $9.00

DO NOTE that the cheapest seller on this one is again that sketchy as fuck company, but if you go to the second cheapest seller you'll find one with great ratings.

PS: This second recommendation has slower transfer rate, 48MB/s instead of 80MB/s, but as far as I know it's unnoticeable in mooost applications. In my case I want it for my 3DS and there's virtually no difference according to my findings. If you need the faster one just get the first recommendation from a more reputable seller.

u/Fusionnex · 21 pointsr/hardware

Seriously the best bang for your buck, gamer or otherwise is the g400. Premium optical sensor (Avago ADNS-A3080E/S3095) with the best tracking on the market. Laser sensors suffer from certain inaccuracies. Retails for around 30-40. Amazon Link


If you hate the form factor, go with the death adder, which is cheaper in construction in my opinion but some prefer the form factor of the death adder: Amazon Link.

You might want to provide more information, such as usage for the mouse: gamer, artist, high dpi needed, low dpi needed, on the fly dpi switching etc. Are you a palm grip or claw grip? Do you use your wrist primarily for mousing or your whole forearm? What type of mousing surface do you like?

u/glurtz · 21 pointsr/oculus

For the 2 sensors on the wall above the computer I'm using 10ft USB 3.0 extension cables. For the 3rd camera I'm using a 16.4ft USB 2.0 extension cable, as well as a 6ft USB 3.0 extension cable because the 2.0 cable wasn't long enough. I have all 3 cameras plugged into the same USB controller on the motherboard. Since I'm using a 2.0 extension cable, the 3rd camera is running via USB 2.0.

I'm using a 10ft HDMI extension cable and a 10ft USB 3.0 cable for the headset. The extension cables are electrical taped together and secured to my desk using velcro straps. I have the headset USB plugged into a PCI-E USB card I bought because I was running out of USB ports.

It's worth noting that for the first couple of days, I was getting occasional errors where the it said the headset was disconnected and I would have to unplug the USB and plug it back in. Since moving the headset to the USB on the PCI-E card (off the same controller as the sensors) I have not had this issue or any other issues to speak of.

6ft 3.0 Extension
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CFL6ARO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

16.4ft 2.0 Extension
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KY9M51O/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

10ft 3.0 Extension
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB PCI-E Expansion Card
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

10ft HDMI Extension
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004C4SECG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Computermaster · 20 pointsr/buildapc

Remember, a UPS isn't meant to be a backup power supply. It's only meant to keep your system going long enough for you to do a proper shutdown.

Unless you're doing something insane like a server board with dual CPUs or quad-SLI, this one will be more than sufficient:

CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS System, 1500VA/900W, 10 Outlets, AVR, Mini-Tower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429N19W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0E0kDbGYW8M3X

u/mes09 · 20 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

If you don't care about Bluetooth I just bought this for $20

It's definitely a generic blue switch -Outemu- but it works great. For $20 when I desperately needed a numpad for some extended data entry was totally worth it. Very solid, long usb cord, metal plate with plastic bottom, and very compact, without tons of extra plastic like some of the other numpads.

Only complaint is the slightly unusual layout with the tab button and small + key.

Also it does output numpad codes.

u/hillbillyJones · 20 pointsr/hiphopheads

I bought some cheap speakers/sub from Amazon a few months/year(?) back. Cost me about $35, but I'm very pleased with the quality for that price. I don't know if you're looking for professional quality stuff, but these are legit for the price

http://www.amazon.com/Cyber-Acoustics-Subwoofer-Satellite-CA-3602a/dp/B0027VT6V4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1369616255&sr=8-2&keywords=computer+speakers

u/smcgee9 · 18 pointsr/buildapc

I highly recommend anything from Logitech. Their products tend to last longer than almost anything else I've used.

Logitech G400 Gaming Mouse is one of the best mice you can buy, and it fits into your price range.

Also, if you want to just get another Razer Deathadder, they are going for $40 on Amazon.

u/OckhamsFolly · 17 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

It seems to either break or ID as affiliate links Amazon links that have any search criteria or anything else in the URL, other than the direct URL for that page. Make sure your links look like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Sandisk-Ultra-200GB-Micro-Adapter/dp/B073JY5T7T

And don't have anything extra after that last string of letters and numbers.

u/CMack1978 · 15 pointsr/homelab

Here is what I got going on (top to bottom, left to right):

I have my monitor and keyboard sitting on a lack side table
Then on top of my lack side table on casters (I could no longer find it on ikea for the link, not sure if they stopped selling them?) I have:

an AT&T MicroCell - which is awesome since my office (and this closet) is in the basement.

NETGEAR R6250 - which is used for guest Wi-Fi access only.

ieGeek USB LVM switch (behind the NETGEAR)

CyberPower CP1500AVRLCD UPS - Which is currently supporting only my 2 R710's for battery, the rest pictured for surge protection.

Then inside the lackrack:

Cablox Mini Cord Organizers stuck to the roof for clean cable management

Dell PowerConnect 5324 - 24 Port Gigabit

Dell R710 2x Xeon L5520, 32GB RAM, 8GB thumb, 120GB Samsung SSD, 6x2TB Seagate NAS HDD

  • FreeNAS 9.10-Stable baremetal install on 8GB thumbdrive
    6x2TB in RaidZ2

  • 120 SSD running on my plugins:

  • Plex

  • CouchPotato

  • Sonarr

  • SABnzbd

  • Transmission

    Dell R710 2x Xeon E5530, 32GB RAM, 8GB thumb, 6x1TB Seagate Barracuda HDD

  • VMware ESXi 6 baremetal on the 8GB thumb
  • Windows Server 2012 - DC, Primarily DNS and some other thingys
  • Confluence
  • Sophos UTM 9 - runs my entire lab and home network, FW and routing, etc.
  • Splunk - DS, Indexers, SH (which will probably consolidate sometime)
  • Syslog-ng
  • Misc temporary build machines for learning stuffs.. Most recently OpenStacks

    edit: listing stuffs..
u/EpiclyEpicEthan1 · 14 pointsr/homelab

Raspberry Pi 3

Raspberry Pi Clear Case

32GB MicroSD Card

Netatmo Weather Station

Wind Gauge

Rain Gauge

Rain/Wind Gauge mounts

3 Way HDMI Switch

1FT HDMI Cable

Wifi Adapter

Everything is attached to the back of the television with some double sided sticky paper things i had lying around. Anything will probably work.

The USB wall outlet is one that delivers 3.1A at 5V that we bought from our local hardware store.

The server that the software runs on is a poweredge r710 with dual x5670s and 64GB of ram. Of course, this isnt all it does, but it is one of the many things i host on it. :)

If you'd like, i can post the scripts i wrote for it as well.

u/Fallonite · 14 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Well there's a few considerations.

1: If you want to keep your data (all your downloaded games, Windows, documents, Steam, etc.) then you will need to clone your old hard drive to the new SSD. A lot of SSD's come with cloning software, but just to be safe check on the SSD's page to make sure it will come with it. If they don't, you can download a free software called EaseUS ToDo Backup Free but in my experience this software is a little unreliable. (EDIT: /u/spif_spaceman recommended another software called Macrium Reflect Free, and after testing it myself I concluded that it does seem to work much better than EaseUS, and going forward I will recommend it to everyone as well. Thanks spif!) If you don't want to move your data, you could always just disconnect the HDD, connect the SSD in its place, and reinstall Windows.

2: To actually get your system to read both drives if your going to copy your data, you can simply power off the system and install the SSD in a second drive bay and plug in SATA power and data cables, or you can get a SATA to USB conversion kit and plug the drive in externally. Here is a great kit that I use at my job as a computer repair technician all the time, as it's very reliable, works with most major drive types, and is simple to use. You could also go with something like this if you want something a little more clean and easier to use. Personally either one of those solutions would work, however that enclosure does have a USB 3.0 connection vs the cable which uses a USB 2.0 connection, so the enclosure would have a faster data transfer speed provided you have an available USB 3.0 port.

3: Once you actually get your data moved over (or not) you may need to get a 2.5 inch to 3.5 inch mounting bracket depending on your case. Most modern cases (3-5 years old generally) will have support for an SSD built right in, but some may not. If not, here is a good kit for a great price, and you get 2!

Hope this helped!

u/MustardCat · 14 pointsr/buildapc
u/whitedragon101 · 13 pointsr/oculus

I did a group test on USB3 extenders here is what I found out :

I tested using an Asus z170 Deluxe motherboard it has both Intel and AsMedia USB3 ports. I also used the Oculus recommended Inatek 7 port USB 3 Card.

——Worked——

Cables in this category mean the sensor detected as USB3 in Oculus devices and didn’t lose connection and provided solid tracking testing with the headset on, no matter what brand of USB3 port it was connected to (Intel, AsMedia,Inatek).

MutecPower 5m active USB3 extension cable £22

(picture seems to be wrong on amazon website, also note this cable seems to be sold as various brands but I'm pretty sure its all the same cable, it should look like this

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01BLPSU2W/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

CableCreation 5m active USB3 extension cable £12

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amazon Basics 1m Passive USB3 extension cable £4

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NH13UFQ/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

——Sort of Worked——

Cable Matters 3m Passive USB3 extension cable £7

Detected as USB3 when using the InatekCard (which has extra power from a SATA power connector)

Detected as USB2 when using motherboard Intel or AsMedia USB3 ports

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MPMFKSI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cable Matters 5m Active USB3 extension cable £11

Only worked as USB 3 in one of the AsMedia ports and only when everything else was disconnected. Was USB2 or has an error in other AsMedia or Intel ports. Detected as USB3 in the Inatek Card and seemed ok testing in Oculus home loading area.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MPMFKSI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


——Didn’t work——

Belfen Superspeed 5m active USB3 extension cable £7

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0179EPUEK/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

detected as USB2 on every USB3 port including Inatek card

u/Crazy_Dragon · 13 pointsr/minines

You could use a tutorial here. It is a lot easier to do than it seems. I will tell you, you need a keyboard, Raspberry Pi 3, and an SD Card. Once you get that, here is where you can download it.. Then, just follow the instructions on Instructable. You really do not have to pay someone, it is a lot easier than it seems. If you want, you can even get a retro case (or normal one like I did) and get a retro controller. PM me if you need more help (I won't charge you if you need help, it is really easy)!

Edit: Ill do yo a bigger favor. Here are the things you will need

Raspberry Pi 3

Raspberry Pi 3 Charger Kit. A powerful phone charger or micro usb adapter should work, but someone can let me know if I am wrong.

SD Card Raspberry Pi 3

Keyboard, though, you probably have one of these at home

Retro Controller, not required, but recommended

You will need at least an 8 GB SD Card, but I recommend 32 GB


u/tielknight · 13 pointsr/buildapcsales

Failed Fakespot the the company has a shit rating as well.

$10 is also pretty standard for a 3/4 port hub(example) on sale.

u/Brink_GG · 12 pointsr/OculusQuest

I bought these to test with:

Amazon Basics USB 3.0 A to C cable


Right angle USB C adapters


And I have this left over from my Oculus CV1 accessory kit wishlist I put on amazon. I'll report back here with what works and what doesn't. I'm also going to get a public google sheet going of cables, adapters (right angle) and active/passive extensions that work so that people can use that as reference.

EDIT: Link to sheet. Anyone with link can edit. Don't make me regret that. I will lock it. (Though if you want to fix my terrible formatting, feel free.)
EDIT: Had to disable open edit permissions. Going to add a form that will add unformatted data at the bottom, then I'll format it properly into the thread. Here's the form: https://forms.gle/uzyHvmgyXJGuVkKM9

u/sk9592 · 12 pointsr/PleX

I bought one of these to consolidate drives into a single enclosure:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003X26VV4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9jgpDbERCY0PX

They sell 8 drive versions as well.

It's a bit on the expensive side, but it was worth it for me because of the space savings, fewer USB drives, less cable mess, and plug points.

u/cowsareverywhere · 12 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

What do you mean? 200GB card is $50 right now

u/tolga7t · 12 pointsr/ShouldIbuythisgame

Logitech G400, the direct successor of the MX518, which was considered the best by many.

u/Snoopy31195 · 12 pointsr/3DSdeals

Anyone interested in this may want to look at this first: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010Q57T02/

SanDisk 32GB class 10 for $10.59 and prime free shipping.

u/pld_ · 12 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

It would have been better if you actually linked to the landing page and not to a screenshot of the article

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010Q588D4/

u/TwinHaelix · 12 pointsr/buildapcsales
u/Ezee99 · 11 pointsr/RetroPie

[Link] (SanDisk Ultra 200GB microSDXC UHS-I card with Adapter - 100MB/s U1 A1 - SDSQUAR-200G-GN6MA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JY5T7T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZUG7Cb4B3ZYDW) for the lazy

u/onastyinc · 11 pointsr/Roku
  1. Your TV needs to support HDMI CEC, most newer TVs do.

  2. get a powered USB hub

  3. Never used it, but I think it is bluetooth based so is somewhat distance sensitive?

  4. it all depends what you have subscriptions too. Content cost money so free channels tend to be much worse than amazon/hulu/netflix etc.

u/John-Mc · 11 pointsr/buildapcsales

It's all about DC vs AC and how DC is converted to AC.

DC is the type of power that comes from a battery and AC is the type of power that comes from your household outlets.

DC is always positive or always negative (always flowing in one direction) but AC changes between positive and negative very rapidly. In the US we use what's called a split phase system that gives us 120v for our homes but regardless of what voltage it is it will fluctuate between +120v and -120v and in our case it will do so 60 times a second.

Pure Sine

The way the electricity changes from positive to negative can be represented mathematically and on a graph where it would appear as a wave going up and down. The shape of that wave and mathematical properties of the wave determines the name. The power provided to your home is a pure or true sine wave and is a smooth flowing transition between positive and negative, to be precise it is given this name because of the trigonometric function 'sine'.

Modified Sine

A modified or simulated sine wave makes sudden transitions to predetermined voltages until it reaches the desired voltage. This would appear on a graph like steps going up and down. Because our devices are designed for the pure sine wave in our homes, a modified sine wave is obviously less desirable. Different devices respond differently to modified sine waves, anything with an AC powered motor tends to have the toughest time and in some cases not work at all (like a ceiling fan) depending on the quality of the modified sine wave (how many steps).

DC > AC

Converting the DC from our UPS's battery to AC requires what we call an "inverter", a device that switches the power back and forth between positive and negative and also increases the voltage. A basic inverter that produces a modified sine wave will power most things but might have fewer steps between voltages to make the transition. A nicer one might have many more steps but the nicest inverters will actually fully simulate the smooth sine wave we have in out homes.

An inverter that produces a pure sine wave will be much more expensive but has a few benefits:

  • Powers any device as long as it doesn't exceed the inverters load capacity.
  • Devices might run cooler
  • Devices might run quieter (modified sine may cause devices to hum)
  • Will place less stress on devices
  • Devices might consume less power than they would running on modified sine.

    UPS
    As far as a UPS goes, like I said, modified sine is usually fine and getting a pure sine is not usually worth the extra cost. If you loose power frequently and have a ton of money in equipment invested already, then maybe it's worth it to you.

    If your new to choosing a UPS you should also know that all these UPS in this form factor will basically have the same amount of run time. They all have a ~9Ah battery in them and the only difference besides features is how much of load the inverter can take. This inverter has a very high load capacity considering its size and battery capacity and would work for almost any PC, even with multiple monitors, router and modem hooked up. The catch is that if you run this at capacity you might only get a couple minutes out of it. If you are more interested in run time you would want to get something more like this that has two batteries: https://amzn.com/B000FBK3QK

u/callmeretardedbut · 11 pointsr/DataHoarder

What is your budget? MediaSonic makes decent enclosures for the price. You can always go fancy and get a Synology if it fits your budget or DIY if you like the customization.

u/freezurbern · 10 pointsr/PleX

I was in the same situation, I ran out of space in my case for drives. I am using a USB enclosure for Plex and it works great:

Mediasonic ProBox HF2-SU3S2 4 Bay 3.5" SATA HDD Enclosure - USB 3.0 & eSATA Support SATA 3 6.0Gbps HDD transfer speed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003X26VV4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pGIiDb44DMDJJ

u/Zuthan · 10 pointsr/PSP

Mhm that’s why. I’ll provide the links below to the two things you need. First, I’ll give you the link to the SD card I bought. You don’t need this if you already have a micro SD card you want to use. Now the important thing is this adapter. It allows you to put in a micro SD and put it in the psp.

Micro SD card:

Adapter

Here is another adapter where you can insert two micro SD cards and it will combine them, if that’s something you are interested in. It’s a bit overkill, but that’s what some people want!

Dual adapter

Hope this helps!

u/Galen640 · 10 pointsr/Switch

First of all: Screen Protector. Once it's on you never notice it, doesn't hurt to get that extra safety!

I've bought 10 games so far, and I'd say get all of these because I have enjoyed them. BOTW, Splatoon 2, Sonic Mania, Rayman Legends, Dragon Ball Xenoverse 2 (assuming you like DBZ,) Mario Kart 8 Deluxe, Pokken Tournament DX, Street Fighter 2 Ultra, Mario + Rabbids Kingdom Battle, and Yooka Laylee.

If I had to pick 3 for you to get to start out then I would pick Breath of the Wild, Splatoon 2, and Mario Kart 8 Deluxe. I think that's enough variety to keep you busy for awhile.

A carrying is always a good thing, I'd recommend This case because it's the one I use and does its job.

Accessory wise I have joycon grips which are AMAZING when playing with one joycon.

Also, the grip it comes with is trash. Get the Power A Grip it feels A LOT better in your hands.

As for SD Cards, it depends. I have a 32GB SD card. I mainly buy physical games, The extra space is for screenshots and videos, and download only games, like Sonic Mania, Yooka Laylee, etc. If you're going for digital only then get a 256GB. Sure you won't use a ton of space now, but you might a few years down the line. Also, do NOT get the official Nintendo ones. They are a RIP-OFF! Here are some nice alternatives that will get the job done for A LOT cheaper: 32 GB 64 GB 128 GB and finally 256 GB

If you have any other questions feel free to ask OP, and other (potential) switch owners!

Quick edit: sorry that some links won't be put with the text, no idea what the issue is

u/HardcoreSnail · 10 pointsr/battlestations

I can't live without the numpad either, but I also need a lot of space for my mouse (very low sens), so I've kind of got the best of both worlds, with most of my keyboards being smaller form factors, and then having a separate numpad off to the side. I have this guy but there are a lot of other options out there.

u/Jo3M3tal · 10 pointsr/BuyItForLife

logitech mx518

It was cheap and had good specs, so it was supposed to hold me over for a couple months. Damn thing is over 10 years old and won't die. It's younger brother (g400) is damn near industructable (seems to be more than your budget, I paid less than your budget though)

u/Gingaskunk · 10 pointsr/Pimax

I used THIS, THIS and THIS to extend my Pimax. Works great, no problems.

u/eZek0 · 10 pointsr/gaming

The G400 is basically an updated MX518, for 35$.

u/afsanulr · 9 pointsr/Hyperhidrosis

ARCTIC Breeze Mobile - Mini USB Desktop Fan with Flexible Neck I Portable Desk Fan for Home, Office I Silent USB Fan I Fan Speed 1700 RPM - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003XN24GY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vkB0CbKWGXCVB

u/Phnglui · 9 pointsr/smashbros

You should be able to use your controller. The gamecube adapter only needs 2 USB slots max, and the switch has 3.

I you're worried about it, get a small USB hub to bring to tourneys in case the setups have no spare ports open.

u/kpanda12 · 9 pointsr/Surface

Have you tried one of these? Super portable and works well. Only $10 on Amazon, too.


Anker 4-Port USB 3.0 Ultra Slim Data Hub for Mac, PC, USB Flash Drives and Other Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tETlzbHY7C93R

u/LandoTheLost · 9 pointsr/NintendoSwitch
u/KH-DanielP · 9 pointsr/legaladvice

I'm surprised that after all this time your family hasn't bought security cameras... here I'll even give you a link

Buy a few of these, hang them under your front porch.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073MF6D35/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Get some of these too:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010Q588D4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Make sure audio recording is legal in your state. These aren't weather proof but they are stupidly simple to setup and all you need is to get them power. If you don't have a plug near by use a light bulb socket and put an adapter in it. 6 Years without installing cameras and all this crazy shit going on, naw it's time to get some evidence. Light your yard up like a football stadium and record the shit out of everything.

u/NessInOnett · 9 pointsr/techsupportgore

The strips may be fine but I've seen far too many reports of their UPS's catching fire to trust their engineering. Their top selling UPS on amazon has 3 pages of people saying it caught fire

https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Outlets-Mini-Tower/product-reviews/B000FBK3QK/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_viewopt_kywd?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=one_star&reviewerType=all_reviews&pageNumber=1&filterByKeyword=fire#reviews-filter-bar

u/cmiles777 · 9 pointsr/hackintosh

PC Setup (Generated from my old spreadsheet)

u/akaisei · 9 pointsr/buildapcsales

Your link leads to a different color. I think this one will work.

I would say good price, but Amazon and probably the driver will probably expect you to tip. Still makes it lower than Black Friday Price. Then again, some colors are below Black Friday pricing on the regular site right now too, which is a bit hilarious seeing how much attention the Black Friday sale got.

u/gssjr · 9 pointsr/oculus

I've been having success with:

u/Antabaka · 8 pointsr/buildapcsales

I have the Logitech G400, and based off of it, I would recommend the Logitech gaming mice very highly, especially for this price.

u/VR_Bummser · 8 pointsr/OculusQuest

For everyone in Germany. I can confirm these two cables work flawlessly, giving together 6.8 meters of freedom.

u/st23576 · 8 pointsr/oculus

There was some guy who tested a bunch of extenders with the Rift sensor on youtube.

I ended up ordering this one because as I recall he determined this was the best passive extender:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/

u/w00tiSecurity_weenie · 8 pointsr/homelab

Havent seen much of anything.

Thinking of grabbing this


SanDisk Ultra 64GB microSDXC for $18

u/PlatinumX · 8 pointsr/AskElectronics

I'd recommend a premade solution such as the Gameduino. It takes a SPI interface and uses an FPGA to generate a VGA output.

It's meant for use with an Aduino, but it's just a standard SPI interface which can be bit-banged with a variety of 8-bit chips. Here's an example of a Gameduino being driven with a Commodore 64.

edit: You'd have to combine the gameduino with something like this VGA to HDMI adapter. If you are particular about DVI, you'd have to chain a HDMI to DVI cable to that as well.

u/StinkyTurd89 · 8 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I have this 1 a bit pricey but going on 4 years now it's likely due for a new battery soon it's still working like a champ CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS System, 1500VA/900W, 10 Outlets, AVR, Mini-Tower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429N19W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_evHzDbX6ZCYSE

u/Zncon · 8 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Here's one on the higher end for personal computers.https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W

I run two at home for my desktop and media server, and a few dozen at work for the more critical user desktops.

Their price right now is just dumb, but if you watch sales I've seen them go for $120.

u/Emerald_Flame · 8 pointsr/buildapc

For computers, I recommend either of these units (or their lower wattage siblings where appropriate):

  • APC BR1500MS
  • CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD

    For networking equipment, something much lower end like the APC BE600M1 would be fine.

    > Bonus points: simulated sine vs true sine; marketing gimmick or worthy investment?

    Depends on the use case. For nearly any modern computer, you'll want true sine wave. Stepped waved UPSes often cause issues with modern 80+ certified PSUs which use Active PFC.

    For other devices that don't have Active PFC PSUs, or just aren't all that sensitive, stepped wave is fine. Things like networking equipment, phone chargers, etc are fine on stepped wave.
u/MortySeinfeld_ · 8 pointsr/GNV

Enjoyed 7 days without power (and therefore Internet) after Irma, and that's why I now have one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00429N19W

u/veriix · 8 pointsr/simracing

Just look at their store, everything is priced with the same pattern:

Logitech G400 $138.31 other sellers $68.89

Logitech G Driving Force Shifter $229.99 other sellers $55

Logitech MX Sound 2.0 $299.99 other sellers $99.99

Logitech HD Pro Webcam C910 $293.19 other sellers $50.99

Do you still want to argue if this is an algorithm bug or a scummy seller issue?

u/brother_bean · 8 pointsr/sysadmin

I'd say for me, if I were making my own home office and wanted to trick it out:

At minimum a dual monitor setup, but it would be nice to have 3 (I have dual monitors and also the laptop screen running them so it works out to 3.) A nice monitor arm that will hold both (or all 3) monitors to keep the desk clutter free. Something nice that makes both monitors adjustable for you (maybe even a 90 degree rotation so you can code on a vertical screen when you feel like it.)

A nice condenser mic with an arm for it as well. I figure if I were working from home I would probably be doing conference calls more regularly than if I were in the office, so a good condenser mic will make my life easier and make sure I can communicate well. Maybe a blue yeti or blue yeti snowball with a nice boom arm for it like so so I can use it when I want it and then push it away when I don't.

In the same vein, a decent webcam that can clip on to my monitor (or buy one of the above boom arms and attach the camera to it, probably smart for only $15 so you can move it around.)

Definitely a great office chair since you can justify the expense and you're going to be sitting all day.

This one is great regardless of working for home or working from the office, but a nice mouse. I just got a Logitech G502 the other day for gaming as well as work purposes and MAN. I never knew what I was missing out on. I have thumb buttons/extra buttons programmed to copy, paste, delete, winkey + e to open an explorer window, ctrl + t for new tab, and also a key combination to switch my active window to my other monitor so I can quickly move stuff between them without having to click and drag.

Since you're working from home and don't have to worry about bothering other people, I'd definitely buy a nice mechanical keyboard. They're a dream to type on. I used to have an office to myself so I bought one and I miss it dearly now that I'm in a cubicle. In my opinion, well worth the expense.

Again since you're not in an office you could get a nice speaker. Bluetooth to keep the cord clutter down but really anything works. You can go budget or big here.

If you're a whiteboard person, a whiteboard to hang on the wall.

Definitely yes to the dock. I have one here at my office and it's so flipping nice being able to plug in one thunderbolt cable and keep the clutter contained to the back of my desk behind my monitors with the dock.

I'd probably buy a nice standing or desk light that still uses filament bulbs to make it warm/easy on the eyes. Ample lighting. And probably a plant or two just to make it look nice and feel good being there.

That's all I can think of. Can you tell I'm living vicariously through you? I know you said must haves, so if I were going to buy the above in order, it would be monitors > dock > mouse > blue yeti snowball > mic stand > camera > camera stand

u/Timmone · 8 pointsr/buildapcsales

I ordered the Blue Yeti Blackout Edition earlier today off of the Amazon Prime Now site for $66.02 shipped.

It began at $71.09 and then I used the 10PRIMENOW code for an extra $10 off. This left me, after taxes, at $66.02 shipped. Not to mention that Prime Now got it to my door in two hours.

So, you can give this link a try, if you're looking for a mic at a similar price point. https://primenow.amazon.com/dp/B00N1YPXW2?m=A1VPEJV7O66L91&qid=1482086910&sr=1-0&ref_=pn_sr_sg_0_img_A1VPEJV7O66L91

u/jwhite40 · 8 pointsr/Battletops

I'm slightly older if that really matters. Here's my advice.

One thing you can do right now without buying anything is to remove the stickers off of your laptop. Seriously, it makes a difference.

For all my recommendations I'm going to list price first as I imagine budget being a concern.

$5 - Do you only use the external drive when at your desk? If so, mounting it to the corner of the desk, the wall, (or if you ever pick up an external monitor, the back of that) might look cleaner.
I use this stuff to stick things - https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-051141397252-Extremely-Mounting-414P-ST/dp/B018GKCI82/ You can find it at stores like Target.

With all the cables coming out of your laptop, I think a USB hub would really help your setup as all of the cables would go directly into one place. If your laptop has a USB-C port and supports charging over it, you can get a USB-C hub so you can connect peripherals and charging over one cable.

$15 - If you don't have USB-C, something like this looks good - https://www.amazon.com/Anker-4-Port-Macbook-Surface-Notebook/dp/B00XMD7KPU/

It has four USB 3.0 ports and is very clean and small. However, the cable is a bit short.

Around $79 - If you do have USB-C, I have this hub and it's pretty good, however the cable is short and can feel a bit loose at times.

$25 - A basic colored mousepad might look cleaner if you want to go for that look. I have this mousepad and recommend it, but it's all personal preference.

$35 - I think you should pick up a headphone stand so the grease and oils don't get on your laptop screen, I recommend this one - https://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Aluminum-Headphone-Stand-Holder/dp/B019PI9QFC/

It gives you three extra USB 3.0 ports, a headphone jack and comes in four different colors, and has a solid aluminum build. If you don't need those extras, this stand is still aluminum and comes in at $12 - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GZFX6ND/

Probably around $100-$150 - The biggest upgrade you can make here I think is an external monitor and keyboard. It would improve your setup's ergonomics significantly. This desk looks pretty small, so I would recommend something no bigger than 24 inches in screen size. The resolution of the screen and such would depend on what you want and your laptop's power. However, I highly recommend at least 1920x1080 resolution.

$25 - If you ever do decide to upgrade to an external monitor, you probably wouldn't be able to use two screens on your desk, and the closed laptop would take up way too much space. I would recommend this laptop stand - https://www.amazon.com/Vertical-Adjustable-OMOTON-Aluminum-Chromebook/dp/B0769G51R7/

I have it myself and it's very well built, adjustable, and makes things a lot cleaner if you use an external monitor. It has branding on one side but if you flip it you can just use the side with no branding so it looks super clean. You can make it very stable on the desk with some simple double-sided tape.

That's all I have for now. Enjoy your setup!

u/Hirogaten · 8 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

Not sure what the difference between them is but a similar sandisk ultra microsd 200gb is on sale on amazon for $65.

https://www.amazon.ca/SanDisk-Ultra-microSDXC-Adapter-SDSQUAR-200G-GN6MA/dp/B073JY5T7T/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511455720&sr=1-2&keywords=SDSDQUAN-200G-C4A

The 128gb is also on sale for $39.

u/ahnada · 8 pointsr/NintendoSwitchDeals

Note that Amazon has the newer SDSQUAR with 100MB/s read speeds for $49.99 (temp out of stock)

u/Conjo_ · 7 pointsr/chile

Hay microSD de 200GB a 37 dolares (25~26 lucas, contando envío) en Amazon (Destaco esta porque sale 29.99 así que no cobra aduanazo)

u/darkarchonlord · 7 pointsr/NintendoSwitchDeals

200GB is $35 less, easy call imo. You're not likely to miss 56GB when you've got this much.

u/AdamWe · 7 pointsr/homelab

FYI, Amazon has CyberPower's 1500VA PFC Sinewave UPS (CP1500PFCLCD) on sale in both USA and Canada for $119.95 US or $155.99 CAD.

Amazon.com page

Amazon.ca page

I've been tracking the Canadian price at about $270 - 299 the past few weeks, but the lowest I've seen in for is $149.99 CAD in previous Black Friday deals.

u/PiwwowPants · 7 pointsr/buildapc

Not sure how many F keys Windows would recognize but regedits (with SharpKeys or directly in the registry) would always be recognized.

The thing is that you need one that outputs numpad codes. If you do not get that, the numpad will output the numrow scan codes and remapping the numpad will remap the numrow above your alpha keys.

Here is a numpad for $20. It will output numpad codes that you can remap in the registry to be anything. It uses mediocre Cherry MX Blue clones but they aren't the worst. They are blue clones though so they "click" when pressed.

u/Czarnodziej · 7 pointsr/starcraft
u/roofoof · 7 pointsr/oculus

This is why I was thinking it would have been nice if we created a list from the start where we compile what hardware works and what doesn't, both for USB cables, and HDMI, and motherboards too.

But in any case, if it's useful, these work for me:

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

http://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Extension-Cable-10-FT/dp/B00GBBSZFE/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

u/DJXiej · 7 pointsr/PS4
u/Adreus_Bjorn · 7 pointsr/Vive

power:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FT9VW0O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_WTxdxbG2WKX4D

Usb:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_YGxdxbPW3R45Z

HDMI:https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Commercial-Premium-Female-Extension/dp/B004C4SECG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1460784534&sr=8-1&keywords=Monoprice+Commercial+Series+Premium+10ft+24AWG+CL2+High+Speed+HDMI+Cable+Male+to+Female+Extension+-+Black

I used black electrical tape to group the cables together after stretching them out and it works great. I accidentally made the usb to tight and occaisonally it pops out during transportation but rarely so if your going to group them together make sure they have enough slack.

u/ZedSpot · 7 pointsr/oculus

These should be everything you need and I've tested them with just the Oculus and they work perfectly:

u/bvo29 · 7 pointsr/TeslaModel3

I have mine attached to this

Anker 4-Port USB 3.0 Ultra Slim Data Hub for Macbook, Mac Pro/mini, iMac, Surface Pro, XPS, Notebook PC, USB Flash Drives, Mobile HDD, and More

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00XMD7KPU

u/viosdr · 7 pointsr/FireEmblemHeroes

Overall they seemed like decent beginner tips, however

  • I'd recommend lowering the volume of the background music(maybe change it to something more ambient)
  • If you plan on doing this longtem I'd also recomend investing in a better camera & webcam sample webcam & sample mic
  • maybe add some fire emblem artwork on one side then information or a bullet list of what you're talking about with links to that part of the video to replace the black bars, such as mantastic
u/Clockw0rk · 7 pointsr/MensRights

More lies to keep the propaganda machine burning.

Oh no, the Black Yeti Mic on amazon is more expensive than the Silver Yeti Mic. They're clearly being racist!

Or, you know, companies have MSRPs and buying things in bulk can reduce the price. Which do you think sells more, the gender neutral scooter, or the pink one?

It's a free market, ladies. Companies wouldn't charge you more for pink shit if you didn't fucking buy it. That's not sexism, that's the difference between an informed consumer and a useful idiot.

Occam's razor is the quick death of most misogyny claims. "Is this a global conspiracy against half of the population?!" .. No, it's just you being a fucking tool.

u/BigisDickus · 7 pointsr/gaming

CPU

Mother Board

GPU

8GB of RAM

1TB HDD for way more storage space then a console. You could drop the storage space to match a console and save a bit of money, but we won't do that.

PSU Cheaper/lower wattage for this build is possible, but it's better not to skimp

Disk drives are dying out and everything is going digital. Even consoles are showing massive growth in direct game purchases and downloads from PSN/XBL. But here it is if you want one.

Here's a few cases 1 2 3 4. Pick your case based on style, USB ports, whatever. All of those are 30 dollars or less and are mATX, meaning smaller form factor.

So now peripherals. Need a monitor? No you don't, plug it in to your TV. HDMI just like a console and consoles don't come with displays. You might have a monitor already.
Controller/input devices? PCs can use the old controllers you have laying around. Here's a keyboard and mouse recommendation anyway if you want one or don't already own them since most people own a computer for stuff outside gaming. That costs around half the price of an OEM console controller and KB+M is a more accurate input method. Controllers are a comfort thing and are best suited for driving games, but point and click with a high DPI sensor is much more intuitive and accurate than a controller with bad input filtering and clunky auto aim. Microsoft tried cross platform and keyboard and mouse destroyed gamepad/controller players. The only real cross platform right now is Rocket League because controllers are the better input method for driving so it's equal footing. But if you're playing Rocket League on PC, you load in faster. You'll be sitting on an empty field while you wait for other players to connect before the countdown and stuff starts, kinda neat. Also, that one I recommended has a button to change DPI/sensitivity on the fly, no need to bother with settings menus. Seamlessly go from sniping to roaming to driving. The keyboard is back lit and has a few color options.

Operating system? GNU/Linux is free and is getting more and more gaming support every day. It's not as hard as people make it out to be. Get a basic/user friendly distro like Ubuntu and all you really have to do is install. If you're a masochist, a developer, or a masochistic developer get a tougher distro like Gentoo. Funny thing as well, games with Linux support run better on Linux since it's such a great operating system on the software level. SteamOS is also free. Want Windows? Download the OS and put it on a disk or flash drive, install it on the new computer and enter the product key. Where do you get a product key? Don't buy it from a big box retail store for 100 bucks or likely more, you're getting gypped. You can buy 100% legit product keys online. r/microsoftsoftwareswap sells them for 20-25$ and the keys are straight from Microsoft

Also, all of those listings are from Amazon and are Amazon Prime eligible (for the other guy that replied to you that wants to complain about rebates/shipping/living next to a MicroCenter). You can find a lot of those parts cheaper and/or with free shipping. I recommend NewEgg. So you can do even better than the price I'm about to give you (which also means you can get better hardware for better performance):

Here's the itemized list with the prices: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/QBVRNG

$448.51 total for a PC that is massively better than current gen consoles. Drop the unnecessary DVD drive and the keyboard+mouse combo and the PC itself comes in at $402.93.


So... brand new parts from a large online retailer with a great support system. You can get even better deals on the parts if you checked other great online retailers like NewEgg. Ten years ago consoles absolutely made sense, but now leaps in hardware design have made better hardware cheaper and the tables have turned.

Does that "come close without cheating"?

Here's a few more kickers now that we have the hard price set:

AMD and Nvidia are about to launch a new line of GPUs, meaning current prices will drop (better performance at lower cost on that build I just gave you) and AMD is specifically focusing on lower/mid range market with higher performance and efficiency. It's going to be great for mainstream gaming rigs.

PC gaming is usually cheaper over time because Intel/Nvida/AMD don't charge development fees (they can't), neither can EVGA/ASUS or whoever makes the parts, neither can Microsoft. Steam takes a cut, but so do stores like GameStop. Stuff like that is why Steam can have massive sales consoles can only dream of and the developers can still profit from a sale. The only reason PC games are 60 dollars like their console equivalents is because it's the standard and they can "get away with it" (especially if you're Microsoft trying to expand Windows 10 and not alienate XBox), but they can make the same or more per sale at a lower cost.

PCs also have the largest game library of any platform and the massive free to play library that comes with it as well. And it's really free, not 'pay 50 a year for a subscription and get to play a game for a month' free

PC is, in theory, forever backwards compatible. Want to play CoD4? Don't shell out the money for Infinite Warfare, just install CoD4 and play on the servers PC still hosts. Games that came out upwards of 10 years ago can still be installed and run with no issue.

You don't have to double spend. No buying a console and a computer for work/school. Put your 300 dollar home computer and 400 dollar console prices together and you made a huge leap in budget to built a killer PC. You also get a much more versatile platform capable of running much more stuff and you get so much more control over your experience.

u/Aema · 7 pointsr/deals

Here’s the same thing on Amazon for $9: Sabrent 4-Port USB 3.0 Hub with Individual LED Power Switches (HB-UM43) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JX1ZS5O

u/BaoheNA · 7 pointsr/macgaming
u/phoenixdigita1 · 6 pointsr/oculus

I would definitely avoid that hub. With 7 external ports the internal design will be two USB host controllers daisy chained together so 4 of those ports will at a minimum have to go through 3 host controllers to send data back to the PC. Very risky and prone to issues which will be explained below.

Apologies for the wall of text but it is all quite important to explain why USB hubs are not the best idea for a number of reasons. Only go the hub route if you have no other choice like you have a laptop and a PCI card if not an option. If you have a desktop and free PCI slots then grab one of the PCI cards listed at the end of this post.

USB 3.0 Hubs

The main concern with hubs is that there is an additional USB controller in the chain and if one of those controllers is not compatible then you might have tracking issues. The issue with compatibility is VR needs low latency and high bandwidth which is required for good tracking.

So you have something like this using a hub.

PC -> PCI Bus -> USB Controller -> Hub -> USB Controller -> Sensor.

I put together this image on the weekend to explain it to someone else - https://imgur.com/jI6Istl

If anything in that chain is sub standard you have issues. If you have good USB Controllers in that chain you wont see issues. Just remember a quality hub is only as good as the USB port on your PC you plug it into.

It is also recommended to get a powered USB hub if you have to go the hub route. People sometimes encounter not just a bandwidth/latency bottleneck but a power bottleneck. Importantly some PC USB ports can't push out enough power to power all the devices plugged into the hub. Get a powered hub to avoid this possibility.

Below are two brands Anker and Amazon Basics which are the hubs I commonly see people say have worked for the Rift. The 7 port one will have daisy chained USB controllers internally but people have recommended it so they must be good quality.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80

or

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Portable-Adapter-Devices/dp/B00PBZX0OM


PCI Cards

Here are the cards that Oculus have recommended (I have personally tested the top two cards) .The blog posts at the end of this post might clear up why hubs are hit and miss for some people due to data/latency bottlenecks that might occur.

StarTek 2 port card (1 ASMedia controller) – Cheaper StarTek option that could be used for 2 sensors or a sensor and headset.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013HT6K3Q

Supported Inatek 4 port card (1 Fresco controller) – Don't get the 5 or 7 port card as the design is not really suited for Rift sensors as it has daisy chained controllers in the design.

https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM

Use the Inatek for your two front facing cameras and nothing else. Plug your third or fourth USB 2.0 camera and Rift HMD into your motherboard.

Supported StarTek 4 port card (2 Controllers) – Optional middle tier PCI card solution which can run all four sensors or 3 sensors and HMD. Equivalent to two Inatek cards.

https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00HJZE9VK

Supported StarTek 4 port card (4 Controllers) – Optional top of the range PCI card solution which can run all four sensors or 3 sensors and HMD. Equivalent to four Inatek cards.

https://www.amazon.com/Express-SuperSpeed-Adapter-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S

Both 4 port StarTek cards are pricey and a bit more than is actually required. You could achieve the same thing with 2x four port Inatek cards.

More reading for why USB controllers are important and how you should connect sensors

Oculus put together some blog posts last year explaining best practices. Parts 2 and 3 of Oculus tracking posts explain the USB subsystems and how to get the best config.

u/Cool-Beaner · 6 pointsr/raspberry_pi

What kid of power supply do you have? I wouldn't try to overclock the Pi with less than a solid 2.1 amp supply, and I do mean solid. Many people have found that some of the cheap 2 amp supplies don't really give 2 amps. This is also going to make the Pi more stable when overclocking. Google it if you want specifics.

Rather than buy a different WiFi dongle which may or may not work with your Pi, buy a powered USB hub.
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=sr_1_1
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=103&cp_id=10307&cs_id=1030702&p_id=5328&seq=1&format=2

u/squrr1 · 6 pointsr/wiiu

You probably want a powered USB-A hub. This will allow you to plug everything, but also charge any devices that are plugged in. Does your hard drive have external power, or does it rely on the USB for power?

Something like this.

u/ThaLemonine · 6 pointsr/buildapc
u/Sydewinder · 6 pointsr/Vive

I've successfully created a 10 ft (~2m??) extension beyond the break out box. Total cost was under $50. I have a 3.2m x 3.5m or so area and I have more than enough space. One thing I'd note is that the HDMI cable extension is HEAVY/THICK. After I put all the extension cables through the mesh casing, it makes the cable paclage very rigid. Still, this works flawlessly for me! Links to amazon below...

HDMI: Monoprice Commercial Series Premium 10ft 24AWG CL2 High Speed HDMI Cable Male to Female Extension - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004C4SECG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_2a4HxbGN1CTQG

USB: Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Qb4Hxb1AHSCGS

DC Power: Hanvex HDCA12 12 ft 1.3mm DC Power Extension Cable for Foscam, Agasio, Tenvis, Loftek Wireless IP Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FT9VW0O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_yc4HxbRGNZ5AB

1/2" casing sleeve: 1/2" PET Expandable Braided Sleeving- 10ft - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZATN3WI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Md4HxbR1Y7KTX

u/OwThatHertz · 6 pointsr/VRGaming

Warning: wall of text ahead. I'm going to recycle an older comment and make it more specific to your post.

It kind of depends. What CPU and GPU do/will you have? Do you have enough room to swing your arms while standing stationary? Do you like simulations, such as racing games or flight/space sims? These actually have an impact on the best headset (HMD) for you. I own the Vive (non-Pro), Rift, and Samsung Odyssey so my comments are based on use of all three.

Oculus Rift:

Lighter and easier to deal with. Has built-in audio. Some really nice platform exclusives, though there is a way to play those on the Vive. (More on that shortly.) Cheaper than the Vive, and cheapest option in general other than some Windows Mixed Reality HMDs that you should probably avoid. Tracking is, in my opinion, a little inferior to the Rift, even if you get a 3rd sensor. However, you can "fake it 'til you make it" on the Rift with only two sensors by mounting them in opposite corners of your play area. The Rift requires at least 3 USB 3 ports, or 4 if you add a 3rd sensor, so that's a lot of requyired ports. Seated/standing experiences work slightly better than roomscale, though this is something they've overcome with time. Games/apps purchased through the Oculus Store won't work on another HMD (barring 3rd party hacks/apps), limiting your future hardware upgrade options so buy any non-Oculus exclusives through the Steam store. Touch controllers are the current king for controllers, but Knuckle controllers for Vive/SteamVR are pending. (More on that shortly.) MUCH more pronounced "god rays" than the Rift. The business practices and politics of Facebook/Oculus are questionable, if you care about that sort of thing. Customer service is ticket-based only and there's no option for phone-based support.

HTC Vive:

The regular Vive is $100 outside your price point. The Vive Pro is more than double so I won't go into it much here. The Vive has significantly better tracking than the Rift unless you get at least a 3rd sensor, and even then there are sometimes issues. No built-in audio on the regular Vive but this is resolved with the Deluxe Audio Strap, albeit for $100 more. The Vive offers a better Roomscale experience, in my opinion. Games are purchased through Steam, which means you can take advantage of Steam sales, buy games at a discount (sometimes 80-90% off!) from third-party sites like Humble Bundle, Green Man Gaming, etc. Note, however, that the Rift is compatible with most VR games on Steam, too. You can also play Rift exclusives using free, third-party software called ReVive, but that this is not officially supported and YMMV. Not every game works. (Essentially, it tricks Rift titles into thinking a Rift is connected, and remaps the buttons to the Vive controller. However, since there are differences between the controller control types, this isn't always perfect.) Controllers are meh but work fine; just not as intuitive or comfortable as the Rift's. When (might be a while) the Knuckles controllers finally come out, they'll probably be the best. The Vive is more glasses-friendly but those who are just nearsighted won't necessarily need to wear glasses at all. There's a new wireless adapter that's nice but only applies if you're driving it with a desktop PC because it uses a PCIe card rather than USB. For non-wireless, however, one nice thing about the Vive is that the HMD only uses one USB 3 and one HDMI, and that's it. The Lighthouses (base stations) only need power and don't require USB. HTC support is both phone and ticket but is terrible either way. Some people have resorted to public shaming via YouTube/social media. YMMV.

Samsung Odyssey (WMR):

Higher resolution display, on par with the Vive Pro, which equates to a much less pronounced "screen door effect" (seeing the gridlines between pixels) than other HMDs. This is very nice for more detailed games like racing games or flight/space sims where you have to read a lot of small dials or text. Significantly lesser support for games and experiences. That said, just because an app doesn't explicitly state it works with WMR doesn't mean it won't work... but it might not. Controllers are pretty bad compared to the others. Tracking is also worse (uses inside-out tracking, so no sensors), but still significantly better than I thought it would be. This won't matter much if at all for seated or standing experiences; just for roomscale. The benefit is that you can do VR on the go with a gaming laptop. (At least a 1070 Max Q, though a full 1070 or 1080 is recommended.) The cable is significantly shorter than the others so, realistically, it's just a seated/standing experience. Roomscale is technically possible but severely limited. Also, there are specific cases (for example: archery games) where the controllers will end up out of view of the HMD's cameras, which will break tracking. Samsung's phone-based support is usually pretty decent, though I haven't needed it for the HMD yet.

Other Windows Mixed Reality HMDs:

The Lenovo Explorer gets some good reviews and sometimes goes on sale for as little as $170 with controllers. (Note: it can be found cheaper without controllers but you need controllers for most VR experiences, so...) It's important to note that the Lenovo Explorer (and all other WMR HMDs other than the the Samsung Odyssey) lacks IPD adjustment. IPD stands for interpupilary distance, which is the distance between your eyes. Everyone's eyes are a different distance apart but most WMR manufacturers didn't include this feature to keep costs down. However, using an HMD without the right IPD can cause nausea, blurriness, and headaches and can ruin your VR experience. I'd strongly recommend going with one that does. I haven't generally heard good things about any of the other WMR HMDs other than the Samsung Odyssey or the Lenovo Explorer. The others are relatively cheap but lack features, perform poorly, or both.

A note about VR graphics:

It really depends on the game. To avoid nausea, VR generally has to run at about 90 Hz, which can necessitate less comprehensive textures. However, people have done absolutely amazing things with VR to the point that you simply don't notice. A prime example of this is Lone Echo (Oculus only). The visuals are stunning, though I'd be remiss if I didn't mention the incredible story, method of teaching game mechanics, and the pure immersive feeling they pull off. Lone Echo is VR done right, and it feels like an AAA title. The Climb is another example of incredible visuals and reasonable immersion. That's the game currently making the rounds (again) of Reddit via this GIF. Skyrim VR is another example of impressive visuals in VR. Skyrim is somewhat dated, but yes; those incredible photorealistic immersion mods from desktop Skyrim work in VR and you can totally play Skyrim VR seated. All of that said... you are looking at a 1080p monitor magnified by relatively cheap optics no matter which rout you go. It's like looking at 1080p on a 70" screen from <4 feet away. You are going to notice the pixels, but you're also going to forget about it pretty quickly as you get distracted by the incredible experiences and other visuals. The only exception to this will be games with lots of detail like flight and space sims. Unfortunately, games like that really need higher res than VR can realistically provide right now. This may change with 20-series GPUs. For everything else, you'll probably mostly forget about the issue.

Roomscale:

Your roomscale abilities are going to be hampered by your small play area. Generally, the recommended minimum area is roughly 2x2.5 meters, if I remember correctly. Some roomscale games will refuse to launch with such a small area marked off. Others will launch, but you'll be unable to reach some things. Your play area will probably just barely suffice but you might need to "cheat" and mark off a slightly larger are than you actually have. The Vive and Rift both do Roomscale and seated/standing VR. WMR only does seated/standing VR reasonably well and is terrible at roomscale (due to the restricted cable length, not to mention poorer tracking) whenever you are able to make more room for it, and the controllers are much worse.

Cable lengths:

All VR HMD cables are a bit shorter than they could be. You can buy some extension cables, but some work and some don't... sometimes with no explicable reason. I've found that this HDMI cable and this USB extension cable work to extend the HDM for both the Vive and the Rift, and this USB extension cable works to extend the Rift cameras. If you decide to get both a Vive and a Rift, the extension cables I linked for the HMDs are able to go to the Vive's breakout box and then either the Vive or Rift can plug into that with success. The Samsung Odyssey does NOT work when plugged into the Vive's breakout box but I haven't yet tested the extension cables so it might work if the breakout box isn't present.

TL;DR:

At this point, my recommendation for first-time VR on a budget is the Oculus Rift. If you know you'll get into/stick with VR and can afford the Vive (so long as you can also afford the Delux Audio Strap), I'd recommend the Vive. The Samsung Odyssee is also a decent solution but at its price point I'd generally recommend the others unless the majority of your usage will be in highly-detailed simulators or similar games.

u/redngold21 · 6 pointsr/oculus

Yep I am using the 10 foot variant of each of these and they work great. The USB I have had for awhile as it came from my CV1 but the display port is new for the S.

​

Display Port Extender

USB 3.0 Extender

u/phr00t_ · 6 pointsr/WindowsMR

USB: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HDMI: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Both work just fine. HDMI cable is a little thick & stiff, but remember this is the section closest to your computer & doesn't get lifted/moved often (like the light cable that goes to your head).

u/ChrisNH · 6 pointsr/oculus

In a forum post on Oculus quite some time ago cyber recommended the following pair which are in use at Oculus:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I can confirm they work for me for a 10' extension on the HMD. As a bonus there is now a break away for the cables that is not my motherboard!

u/ThunderSevn · 6 pointsr/PleX
u/[deleted] · 6 pointsr/Monitors

Amazon US and Amazon Canada.

Edit: this is far better quality, though. It is made from a computer case fan and will likely last you longer. Amazon US or Amazon Canada

u/davidrools · 6 pointsr/Bitcoin

LMAmazonTFY

Top result for "usb fan" in Amazon electronics

u/Queen_Combat · 6 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Absolutely. A standard UPS has special types of resistors and capacitors that either shunt large spikes (like from a lightning strike) to the ground pin, or self-sacrifice (blow themselves up) to take the brunt of the same. The regular wall AC voltage and frequency is still passed straight through. These sacrificial surge protection components only work when it's a HUGE spike.

The spikes caused by the collapsing magnetic field from the motor winding are small enough and last a short enough time (literally a snap, like a spark plug in a car) that a UPS doesn't "catch" them. The only type of UPS that would eliminate them are things like a pure sine wave UPS, where it takes the AC wall voltage, puts it through an isolation transformer and/or converts it to DC, and then re-converts that DC to AC. With those, you are effectively always running off of the battery, it just so happens the wall AC is also being used to charge the battery at the same time. Very rare in consumer equipment and fairly expensive.

Quick-ish explanation of isolation transformers: a regular transformer steps up or down AC voltages by having two wraps of wire wound around each other. The amount of voltage spike/drop is proportional to the number of wraps. If you have a transformer with an input winding of one wrap, and an output winding of ten wraps, you will get a 10x step up in voltage. 120V goes in, 1200V comes out. The input winding creates a magnetic field, and the output winding winds around that magnetic field, picking it up and creating an AC voltage. The reverse is also true: put 120v into the 10x winding, and 12V would come out of the 1x winding.

An isolation transformer is just an even number of windings on either side. For example, say 20 and 20. 120V goes in, 120V comes out, but there's no physical connection between the two. The electricity gets converted to a magnetic field, then back into electricity. Think of it kind of like a bungee cord in the middle of a rope.

The tiny, high-voltage spike from the bathroom fan wouldn't be able to affect that magnetic field in the isolation transformer (or, comparatively, not able to affect it as much), kind of like pulling that rope with the bungee cable in the middle. The elastic bungee would "smooth out" any small bumps or pulls from being felt at the other end of the rope, relatively.

I also still have a touch lamp. Somewhere...

u/SweetBearCub · 6 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I read your title and thought, "Hey, I'm waiting on my UPS too", then I realized we weren't talking about the same UPS.

I meant my CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS 1500VA 900W, MSRP of $260, snapped up for $130 when I saw it.

u/g1mike · 6 pointsr/amazon

CyberPower CP1500AVRLCD

Edit: Linked the wrong model. I actually have the PFC model. It has saved my work and equipment from loss so many times.

I have my router and modem on it too. When the power goes out, my WiFi light shines bright.

u/TheNoobPolice · 6 pointsr/MouseReview

Idk man, the picture looks fake to me.

Why would Logitech use the exact same render / photo angle of the original G400, when they haven’t used that style for years.

See - exact same image with just the logo / buttons shopped. https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Optical-Gaming-Mouse-910-002277/dp/B0055QZ216

u/mogranjm · 6 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Willing to bet that it's a jelly comb.
Https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01E8U8HKW/ref=oh_aui_i_sh_post_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Assuming I'm correct, do you find it OP? Did the weird parentheses buttons give you any trouble? (I've got one shipping to me as we speak)

u/patz2009 · 6 pointsr/gpdwin

Storage - https://www.amzn.com/B073JY5T7T
200GB of storage that should be plenty fast for emulators.

Case - https://www.amzn.com/B002VPE1QG
Cheap and has plenty of space. Has a semi-hard shell.

Screen protector - The IGG WIN 2s will have a screen protector included.

Power Bank - https://www.amzn.com/B077448WVD
There's plenty of options out there and this is just an example, but your biggest thing to look for will be Power Delivery. It's essentially the open standard version of Quick Charge, and the WIN 2 supports it.


All this being said, I wouldn't buy the battery or storage now. Prices are likely to drop (at worst, stay the same) between now and May when the WIN 2 starts shipping.

u/eitherorsayyes · 6 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Mechanical Numeric Keypad,Jelly Comb USB Braid Cable Numpad 22-key Number Pad - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E8U8HKW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_034qxb5NWRHFF

Just got it in the mail, going to do some tests. Anything you want to know about it? It'll be my first mechanical Numpad. It's a bit clickier than I expected.

u/Bioniclegenius · 6 pointsr/buildapc

I'm currently using a Yeti Blue and a pair of Sennheiser HD598SRs. Planning on switching to a Modmic 5 in the future, for more easy plug-and-play with a straight headphone jack, rather than messing around with a USB mic that I have to unplug to switch my audio back to speakers.

u/obviouslyaman · 6 pointsr/CybersexWorkers

Open Source Software

u/SgtKashim · 6 pointsr/Guitar

You have a couple of options, but the webcam and mic just... aren't going to cut it. You'll never get the sound mixed right. Best bet is going to be capture the audio and video separately, then re-combine. The problem is I've never met a camera that really captures good sound. You can get decent sound by using a video-capable DSLR with external mic connections... but you'll spend $3k - $5k to get that sort of a setup working right.

I'm assuming the primary focus here is the audio, so you can probably get away with the webcam for the video, or any digital camera that's video capable. The key to making it look good will be lighting, more than the camera. If you have a couple of halogen worklights around you can use those as cheap stage lighting. Failing that, position yourself in the sunlight from a window. Make sure the background behind you is free of distracting stuff like old clothes, random papers, etc. Even a cheap, crappy camera can usually take decent images and video if you give it enough light to work with.

Software: You'll need something like Audacity - which is free and pretty easy to use. Does everything you need.

On to hardware: Two options. I'll give you the expensive one first, then the hackier way.

If you're going for absolute audio quality, you'll need a large diaphragm condenser mic. You'll want a mic for each channel you want to capture - so one for the vocal, one for the instrument. Expect to spend ~$100 per mic give or take. Monoprice has a decent one a little cheaper. Craigslist is a good source. When you get into mics, it's as fidgety a question as "which guitar is the best" - but that's your starting place. You'll need to run the mics into a mixer board (and condenser mics usually use phantom power, so your mixer needs to support that). Again, Monoprice has some decent sub-$100 options, or you can chase Craigslist. Figure this will cost you $300 to $350 after mics, cables, stands, and mixer. You can easily spend $$$$$$ as you get better stuff, but that's the basic setup.

The cheaper way - something like a Zoom H2N. Since these will do stereo recording, I tend to hang one off a mic stand horizontally halfway between my guitar and face. That lets me catch (mostly) the voice on the right channel and (mostly) the guitar on the left. After that I can do corrections and relative volume on each at least mostly separately.

The third alternative would be a USB mic like the Blue Yeti on the desk, use the computer's webcam to record video and the audio from the mic at the same time. I have a friend who's an operatic tenor, and he records his video auditions this way. I don't have the details on the software he's using, though. The H2N I linked above can be used the same way - put it in USB mic mode, record audio and video at the same time.

Given what you're trying to accomplish, I'd recommend the H2N, and depending on just how lazy you want to be either record separately and recombine, or use it as a stereo USB mic. But you really do want a way to separate the vocals and the instrument at least a little to fix specific things on each side and match the volumes a bit.

I didn't do a stunning job with it, but about 30 minutes ago I did a quick demo of a song on the H2n. I love mine, anyway...

Edit

You can also get a better USB webcam. Many Point-n-Shoot digital cameras also can be used as a USB recording device.

u/Slippery_Slug · 6 pointsr/buildapcsales

Well the other day Rasberry Pi 3 Model B was $28 w/ free Shipping so:

Raspberry Pi- $28

32GB SD card- $13

2.5A Power Supply- $10

Heatsinks- $5

Case- $8

HDMI Cable- $7

_____

Total- $ 71

I'd say it's an okay deal. I'd rather buy it bundled anyway, just so it all arrives at once.

u/cpqq · 6 pointsr/wyzecam

SanDisk Ultra 32GB. If it works in your cam and records properly, you shouldn't have an issue.

I had an issue where various Transcend cards of mine wouldn't show up, would record a few minutes, etc.. This card worked fine in the cam, so I kept constant with the models as I scaled out.

Use Xiaomi Dafang Hacks as that repo is updated within the last 3 days, OpenIPC a few months, and that's what it was based on.

Format the card to FAT32. Make sure to do that. NTFS, etc. will not work.

Once formatted, clear the lot, and download the demo.bin.

Direct Download: https://github.com/EliasKotlyar/Xiaomi-Dafang-Hacks/raw/master/hacks/cfw/wyzecam_v2/cfw-1.1.bin

Rename that to 'demo.bin' and have NOTHING ELSE ON THE CARD. FAT32 + demo.bin by itself.

Insert card into camera with demo.bin. Hold setup before giving it USB power. Keep holding it. Plug it back in. Keep holding setup for 10 seconds after so it flashes.

After 2-3 minutes it'll reflash with an older stock firmware that will allow you to do step 2. Wait 3-5 minutes, and power down the camera.

Re-insert the card to the PC / Mac, and copy the full contents of firmware_mod to the SD card after editing /config/wpa_supplicant.conf.dist to include your SSID (wifi name) and PSK (password).

Make sure to rename it also to wpa_supplicant.conf.

After copying, make sure it's not within a folder on the SD card, but populates the root folder.

Re-insert the card, no need to press any buttons, turn on the CAM and you should find the camera on your network and can login to the interface as https://IP

Full Instructions

It's working great, pushing 430-450KB/s at 20-50% CPU and around 48MB used. Turned off audio and motion tracking to give the CPU a break.

Now I love this camera.




u/krunk84 · 6 pointsr/cade

As requested:


Bartop kit - $139.99 link


Buttons - $66 link


Raspberry Pi 3 - $35 link


Raspberry Pi Case - $7.95 link


Power Recpetical - $5.99 link


USB Hub - $11.99 - linl


Zip Ties for cable management - $5.98 - link


External USB Ports - $11.90 link


Velcro Pads for mounting speakers and Raspberry Pi case - $2.98 link


64 gb SD Card - $24.88 link


HDMI to VGA adapter - $7.99 link


20 ft of 3/4 inch t-molding - $6.99 link


Total cost so far including shipping - $361.13

u/praetor- · 6 pointsr/HomeServer

I've been running three of these Mediasonic ProBox enclosures for the last two years with zero complaints. I use the USB 3.0 interface though, not eSATA.

u/Targren · 6 pointsr/DataHoarder

I added an eSata card and one of these

u/NO_SPACE_B4_COMMA · 6 pointsr/selfhosted

I turned my laptop into a unraid server. Bought a mediasonic box.


https://smile.amazon.com/Mediasonic-ProBox-HF2-SU3S2-SATA-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4/


Works wonderful

u/zero_to_n_minus_one · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace

It's anyone's guess how accurate ASUS anti-surge is, but, if you have a lot of brown/blackouts in your area, you might want to look into a UPS which can save your PSU and PC from damage. Outside of that,

>If my PSU is going bad, are there any other signs it should be showing?

your PC turning off suddenly

u/Sam474 · 5 pointsr/Guildwars2

I could give you a longer and more detailed answer if you want one, but I'm going to start simple.

The one edxmon linked would probably be fine. Depending on your rig and monitor size and blah blah you'd likely be able to squeeze between 4 and 10 minutes of run time out of it if all you connected was the computer, the monitor, the modem, and your router. The fewer things you connect the longer it would run (so leave the modem and router off the battery if you don't care about being disconnected from the net during an outage).

I don't actually get power outages much, but I do get a lot of periods where the lights in the house dim for a few seconds and then come back up, these periods can be dangerous for computers (in some ways more dangerous than an occasional outage) so I run something with AVR (Automatic Voltage Regulation, some times also called Advanced Voltage Regulation) which basically ensures that my computer gets a stable and level amount of power all the time, never too much and never too little, by using capacitors built into the UPS to regulate power flow.

This is the actual model I am using right now. I have one of my monitors (the primary one), the computer itself, the router, and the modem connected to it. This means that if the power goes out I don't lose what I'm doing or my internet connection. I've never actually run it until it died but it estimates 15 to 30 minutes of runtime for me in an outage (how much time you get varies greatly with what you're doing, your computer uses much less power when you're editing a document in word than it does when you're playing a game, so the times vary).

This model is inbetween the one linked by edxmon and mine in both price and performance but it still offers AVR.

One thing a lot of people overlook is using more than one UPS. Don't plug one UPS into another one (ever!) but you can connect two to the wall outlet and plug the computer and monitor(s) into one and the modem and router into the other. So if you wanted to start buy purchasing the least expensive one and seeing if it meets your needs you can do that and if it doesn't give you enough time (or you decide you want AVR later) you can buy another and divide items up between them.

u/xxh9 · 5 pointsr/homelab

Cyberpower or APC.

You're likely going to have to spend minimum $100 and have a size of at least 500W, and for three computers depending on the consumption, more like 750w. These usually come with the ability to power down a single computer.

These are the better "budget" brands of UPS units. Hopefully the unit has a voltage regulation feature for both dips and spikes.

Your electic bill will go up a bit, no matter what you do. Some are better than others.

u/carnotredditor · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

I bought this a week ago when it was $94.95. Seems like a pretty good unit for the price and if you're looking to buy your first UPS I'd say this is a good choice.

EDIT: Wrong model, I only read the brand name and the power rating. I bought this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FBK3QK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/johnpisme · 5 pointsr/vinyl

Don't worry about being "clueless", pretty much all of us were where you are. Years ago, I bought a Crosley at best buy because I just didn't know any better. These all-in-one sets just seem like such a great idea to uninitiated fools like you and me were. However, the truth is they are terrible. IDK about yours, but mine didn't even sound very good. Yes, it is ruining your records because the stylus is basically putting too much pressure on the grooves everytime you use it which damages them. IDK how quickly this damages them, you probably are fine so far.

Before someone comes in and gives you vague advice to buy vintage on Craigslist or eBay or a thrift store because you can get a much better table for the same price as what you have now, let me give you some advice, from one broke college student to another, that will actually be helpful. This advice is true, but it does not take into account the fact that you will need a preamp for this table which is something that boosts the naturally quiet signal. You will also need a receiver and speakers. You can find a receiver that includes the phono preamp, but still this is going to end up costing you over $100 at least. Not to denigrade this option, but there is an easier route for the broke beginner.

You can buy a new (or slightly used) turntable that includes a preamp. The most favored model is the Audio Technica LP60. I have this myself (found it for $50 on eBay) and can vouch for it. It does not have a counter weight for the tonearm, so technically you still will be wearing your records down faster than necessary, but it is MUCH better than how the table you have now is treating them, and to get a model with a counter weight you will be looking to spend enough to make the first option I outlined be the better route. So, with this model there is a switch to activate the internal preamp, which allows you to plug into any powered speakers that accept either RCA inputs or a simple line-in, which basically looks like a normal headphone jack. Which means all you need is the turntable and some speakers. With this model, a simple pair of computer speakers suffice. You can get decent ones from amazon (I have seen these dip down to $20 periodically and they aren't bad).

Hope this helps!

Edit: what albums do you have so far? What lead you to begin with vinyl?

u/Kichigai · 5 pointsr/editors

First: Avoid the J-series Synology units. All J-series are meant to be cost-reduced, low power units, typically based on ARM processors. They will perform rather poorly, and be completely useless for any kind of video editing applications.

>So when I get a NAS, what can I expect?

Lower performance than USB 3, but greater convenience because all your devices can access it simultaneously. You're going to want your computer and the NAS to be on the same Ethernet switch. Don't even think about doing anything serious over Wifi.

>Would it be a good idea?

Yes and no. Yes, in that it could make a great backup target, and a handy way of storing non-video content for live use, like music libraries.

>How is performance when connected to a network?

Depends on the NAS and the network. As I just finished writing up over here the rest of the traffic on the network can play a role in limiting performance, and the functional capacity of the NAS itself also plays a very key role in whether or not it can keep up with what you demand out of it.

>Is it totally doable for live editing or is it best connected directly to my PC via USB 3?

Maybe. Depends on the footage you're working with. Unless you're getting a higher end model, know how to tinker with these things, and you're not working with like gonzo 4K footage it might work out, but USB 3 will deliver far superior performance, and it would be recommended you continue to work off something like this.

>I'm less concerned about RAID... I'm really only doing this so I can have multiple drives using one power cable.

No, you're getting involved with RAID, so you need to be concerned about RAID. I have a write-up in the Wiki about RAID that gives you a sort of 10-foot perspective on the thing. The RAID tech you invest in will determine how you move forward in the coming years in terms of data protection and storage growth.

And if all you care about is the power cord then you're getting into this for the wrong reasons. IF that's all you care about you could get a DAS solution. You could go with just a simple dual disk dock, or a dumb 'ole JBOD enclosure, or get some kind of real RAID solution, either by buying a card and building an array inside your computer or in some kind of external enclosure, or by buying a device that handles RAID internally and exposes itself to the computer as a single dumb disk.

>Currently looking into these two models:

Keep in mind that those are dual-disk models, which limits you to RAID0 and RAID1. This is quite limiting in terms of options, and in terms of volume. However upgrading capacity is cheap, since you only have two disks to replace (however this is only possible in RAID1, and impossible in RAID0 unless you've got enough external storage lying around).

u/chicitybender · 5 pointsr/DataHoarder

I bought 1 already but want another. I'm new to this, so after shucking where can I place them? My only computer is a laptop so my options are either building my own server or finding a dock that can support multiple 8TB drives, preferably 4 ports. Can someone gimme an amazon link for something to look at?

I was thinking this https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-ProBox-HF2-SU3S2-SATA-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1503137746&sr=8-3&keywords=4+bay+8tb

But won't that not support plex transcoding?

u/WinterDoggo · 5 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

> I feel like he’ll appreciate the full size since he’s a programmer.

This is potentially completely backwards. Programming isn't data entry, and a numpad is not required for most tasks.

I can't speak to his work style or personal preferences obviously, but many programmers prefer smaller boards. I get by with this.

I would say get the TKL unless you think he can go down to 60%, it's ergonomically better (keeps the angle of your shoulders better when using a mouse) and then you can get a separate numpad if he really needs it, that can be put away when not in use, or placed on the left hand side.

u/OmegaZero55 · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

You could always get a stand alone number pad. It's not quite the same as having one connected, but it's close!

Edit: Here's a cheap mechanical one that Amazon even suggested on the keyboard's page. If you go non mechanical, you could get one even cheaper.

u/wanderingbilby · 5 pointsr/AndroidQuestions

Non referral-bs link: https://www.amazon.com/Sandisk-Ultra-Micro-UHS-I-Adapter/dp/B073JY5T7T/ shows as $44.05 for me

Camelcamelcamel: https://camelcamelcamel.com/Sandisk-Ultra-200GB-Micro-Adapter/product/B073JY5T7T Looks like it was lower yesterday. Possibly it's a geo-tagged price setting. It's dropped quite a bit in the last year so even at the $44 price it's pretty decent.

u/lbabinz · 5 pointsr/VideoGameDealsCanada

200GB - $64.99

128GB - $38.99

64GB - $19.99

u/LolKantel · 5 pointsr/GlobalOffensive

Razer Deathadder

Logitech G400

Zowie EC2

These are the mouses that I would purchase today if I needed to replace my current DeathAdder 3.5g (in order of MY preference)

EDIT: Re-arranged the order. And to say that DollarSignBot is OP

u/foxual · 5 pointsr/buildapc

I, like you, used to build computers about 10 years ago, right when I was getting out of high school and into college. I just recently built one again after being a mac/xbox user before, and it was like riding a bike again when it came to assembling it.

Some thoughts based on the computer I just built:

  • My budget was a bit higher, which I sunk almost entirely into a GTX 670 FTW and 128 GB SSD. I considered getting rid of the SSD altogether to save some cash, because I thought it wouldn't make much of a difference. I was so wrong. It makes a huge difference. In fact, my next purchase is going to be a 256 GB SSD because I am running out of space on the first one.

  • I bought a really nice Samsung 1080p monitor from my brother-in-law, but before that deal worked itself out I was looking at something like this from Acer, right in that $150 price range.

  • I went with an Nvidia card because it was the latest and greatest, and 10 years ago I had trouble with a Radeon card (which has no bearing on the present, I know). I love my 670, but you're right about price:performance with Radeon.

  • I have an i5 3570K which I am not currently overclocking. I threw a Hyper 212+ on it anyways to give myself the option. It's only $20 and will save a lot of time and hassle in the future if you do decide it's something you want to try.

  • I put my computer in a NZXT Phantom 400 midtower. In retrospect, I wish I'd gone with something smaller. If your gut says small, go small. To go MicroATX look at this Mobo and this case.

  • I have a super cheap $20 keyboard that works just fine, and a Logitech G500 mouse (which was a gift). The mouse is awesome, but is a bit overkill for my needs. Really think about what you need out of a mouse before you drop $50 on one. If I was spending my own money, I'd go with the ~$30 G300 or G400, or something even cheaper like this GigaByte. Just get one that fits your grip style.

  • I have mine hooked up wirelessly right now until I can run cable... I borrowed a friend's Belkin USB stick wireless adapter... the thing's a champion. I was shocked. I will never recommend Belkin and am inclined to believe I am the exception and not the rule in this case, but a wireless USB stick may be something to look into.
u/StaticHorizon · 5 pointsr/pcgaming

I've noticed a few other Logitech G-series mice in here, and personally, I've had the G500 for about 8 months now. It's fantastic, well-built, and I haven't had a single issue with it. I highly recommend it, or any of the other Logitech mice you see mentioned here, really.

u/The_Waggle · 5 pointsr/buildapc

I'm just going to upvote you and paste my comment here

I've had Plantronic's Gamecom 780 headphones for over a year now (purchased April 2013) and they're still going strong. When they break, I'm getting another pair.

It's a usb headset, with mic, and costs £45.

Purchase link (UK): http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0079G2Y52

4/5 over 92 reviews on Newegg link

4.1/5 over 791 reviews on Amazon UK link

4.2/5 over 2309 reviews on Amazon US link

In-depth review on Engadget link

The inevitable unboxing and review youtube link


Alternatively, get yourself a decent pair of headphones (several linked in this thread) and a clip-on mic like the Speedlink Spes Clip-On Microphone (£7)

Also, ITT: headphones and headsets massively over OP's £45-50 price range

u/Arpawiz · 5 pointsr/MMORPG

These are amazing. They're not much to look at but they're really good sound and mic quality.

u/Kalivos · 5 pointsr/pcgaming

If you are dead set on a headset rather than going for a pair of headphones and a microphone, I would recommend the Plantronics GameCom 780 Headset. They should last you quite some time and are very comfortable to wear for extended periods of time.

u/LocalAmazonBot · 5 pointsr/buildapc

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link: http://smile.amazon.com/CM-Storm-Devastator-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B00DKXXAAQ/ref=sr_1_1


|Country|Link|
|:-----------|:------------|
|France|amazon.fr|
|Canada|amazon.ca|
|Italy|amazon.it|




This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.

u/tvtb · 5 pointsr/mac

Literally any hub that follows the USB3 spec should work. Try to get one that's powered (comes with a power brick you plug in) and isn't the cheapest thing you can find. This one works fine.

u/outbound · 5 pointsr/openwrt

I seriously doubt that there's enough power for two USB drives. But you'll be able to make everything work with a powered USB hub.

-edit-
That link is for a 2.5A powered hub. If you've got older (or more power hungry) drives, you may want to get one with more power.

u/csreid · 5 pointsr/neoliberal

I really really really want a USB-C hub that just has 5 USB C inputs and 1 USB C output. Like this but USB C. I can't find anything because everything is just a dock for a macbook :/

u/Ineedmorcowbell · 5 pointsr/gaming

This is just terrible. This is a solution to a poor design problem that should have been taken care of immediately after a mock up was made. Like many have mentioned, your hub is technically covering up the disc drive slot. Those ports are USB 3, something I am exstatic about that was added for these consoles, so the the power shouldn't be a problem for the hub unless plugging in 4 controllers....You know what this is all dumb. DUMB! If you plug in something to the usb it will most likely stay there forever. Your cable to charge the controller will be dangling there till you need it again. Plus I am certain Sony would make the plug slim enough to fit in their own designed space, and will be happy to sell you PS4 branded USB drives. What would one even need a USB flash drive for besides possibly taking your save games with you? The hard drive is upgradable to anything really right? Two terabyte hard drive inside, so just plug a Mood Light or fan in for no other reason then because you could.
TL:DR: You don't need this, it comes with enough usb plugs for whatever you might need. One for controller charging because everyone plays alone, and one for a God damn Mood Light because, FUCK YOU, that's why.

u/frbap · 5 pointsr/Surface
u/zax9 · 5 pointsr/buildapc

Right now, at about 40% load, my "gaming PC" (plus primary monitor, an LG 34-inch ultrawide, my fiber modem, my router, my wifi access point and my Drobo NAS) is drawing a total of 387 watts per the control panel on my Cyberpower CP1500PFCLCD UPS ($200 at Amazon).

At this level of power draw, the UPS control panel projects 14 minutes of runtime. Keep in mind that flashing the BIOS is not a CPU-intensive process and the total power draw will be even lower during that procedure.

u/eegras · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I own two of these. One for my PC and one for my networking hardware. Barely powers my PC ( I pull ~600W while gaming ), but gives like, 5-25 minutes of battery power. Auto shutdown too.

u/cwasher · 5 pointsr/HomeServer

Cyber Monday deal... CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS 1500VA 900W PFC Compatible Mini-Tower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429N19W

u/icemerc · 5 pointsr/homelab

Found 2 deals on pure sine wave cyberpower UPS

Newegg - Cyberpower GX1325U 1325VA 810W - $110

Amazon - CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD 1500VA 900W - $130

Edit: B&H Photo has the CP1500PFCLCD for the same price as Amazon.

u/puppystomper305 · 5 pointsr/unRAID

I used a kill-a-watt to see what my power draw was. Then I made the calculations from the wattage draw. There are online calculators that can help. With the ups I bought I can get about 45 mins of uptime with an outage.

This is what I got.
CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS System, 1500VA/900W, 10 Outlets, AVR, Mini-Tower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429N19W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_uQYAR1HA6GHqI

u/HMKS · 5 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

Morning everyone!
Every once in a while I like to come in here and ask what everyone's thinking of buying.
Nice to get an idea about things that I might be interested in grabbing or something that I should get for some peace of mind.
Earlier this week, my CyberPower UPS arrived in the mail (delivered by UPS. Coincidence? I think not!) and I can rest easy now. We've had some power surges, brownouts and blackouts recently.

u/Pathetic_One · 5 pointsr/truetf2

New G400 mice are still out there for sale. Two catches:

  1. apparently you have to use 800dpi (and use TF2 raw input and/or turn off Windows' "enhance pointer precision") to get accel-free behaviour from the G400 - this might be an issue if you play with a high sens. If you want "perfect control" at a higher dpi you'd have to use, say, a Razr Deathadder at 1800dpi - and then you apparently have to contend with a higher lift-off distance and shonky driver software.

  2. the new G400s might be better, or it might be worse, or just different. I haven't seen a decent review yet. C'mon, Ramla... :)
u/Ironfungus · 5 pointsr/pcgaming

This (G400). Scientifically proven and endorsed by Ironfungus as the bestest mouse in ever. Perfect shape for any hand, as accurate as anyone would ever need, corded, but without being ungodly expensive.

Take my word for it and buy it now.

u/senfmeister · 5 pointsr/teslamotors

You can do this for Sentry if you don't mind some tinkering: https://github.com/marcone/teslausb/

​

I started using TeslaFi two days after I got my car, I wish I'd done that from the beginning. If you want to try it a referral code can double your trial period (to a month from two weeks, I believe).

​

This USB hub works great for all the stuff I have plugged in: https://smile.amazon.com/Anker-4-Port-Macbook-Surface-Notebook/dp/B00XMD7KPU/

u/sobusyimbored · 5 pointsr/raspberry_pi

You are really overestimating prices for most of that.

u/cmkovalik · 5 pointsr/howto

You can get a single cable that is dvi to HDMI. No need for an adapter.

AmazonBasics HL-007347 HDMI Input to DVI Output Adapter Cable - 6 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8UQJY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HdUZCb09VYV5Y

u/lilgreenrosetta · 5 pointsr/photography

Well in that case you might want to have a look at this cable on Amazon. The design is, as far as I can see, 100% identical to yours. You might want to have a lawyer look at that.

For what it's worth I have one of each and for me the Cablecreation one is currently proving more reliable than the Tether Tools one so if it's an imitation they haven't done a terrible job.

u/Dixonian89 · 5 pointsr/oculus

Lots have used them and reported working on here:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1pjMerZPmJgkqwMKeYzvy4yGzWu2bu_1T_6m3nNmJkBU/edit#gid=0

mine will be delivered today (I'll be testing it tonight), I will report back once I find out if it works or not.

These are the cables I purchased, both are confirmed to be working from others, if it works I will have a total of 26 feet for my Quest to PC setup. I will be testing them in about 5 hours from now:

Cable (10 ft version, which is sold out): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZIPYPY/

Extension: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8

​

Edit: these both worked great for Link on the quest. I now have a 26 ft setup for only $24 total! The Anker cable even came with a Velcro cable tie i'm using to secure the cable to the headstrap so it doesn't yank out of the USB port on the Quest while playing a game.

u/drrenhoek · 5 pointsr/oculus

Few useful links to get you started.

Oculus Rift Room Scale Setup Guide

List of recommended cable extensions

I'm using 3 Sensor setup in L configurations with CableCreation CD0034 and Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card. My sensors are mounted about 10 inches and 40 degrees away from the ceiling. Perfect tracking in the play area. Good tracking out of usual play area, when in bed playing seated games in view of only two sensors which are 12 to 15 feet away.

u/BradenFontaine · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I run the Define S which has no drive bay, my cable for the external CD drive was too short so i purchased this hub and am ashamed of how long it took me to figure out the connection.

u/Shojikoto · 5 pointsr/xboxone

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JX1ZS5O/

This one has worked great for me. I've got two external HDDs connected (one USB powered and one dedicated power), my headset (3rd gen Astro A50, USB powered), and sometimes plug a flash drive in to upload photos for backgrounds.... Good speeds since it's USB3.0... I like that it's hot swappable too, because I can disconnect/reconnect my headphones anytime they have an issue by pressing the button rather than pulling the cable.

u/assholefromwork · 5 pointsr/SaltLakeCity

Anymore I don't generally take data recovery work on from people I don't know personally (just too much that could go wrong liability wise - I don't want to be the one to lose any irreplaceable pictures of grandma permanently) but I can give you some quick things you might try depending on how comfortable you are with electronics in general.



You said the drive isn't being recognized - is it making any new noises compared to when it was working? If you hear a repeating clicking noise, I would NOT attempt anything further on my own with that drive and in fact would not be turning it on any more if I could help it.



If it's not making a clicking noise but is still coming on and just not being recognized, it might just be the external enclosure/connector that's not working. If you're comfortable removing the HDD from the current enclosure, you can try the bare drive in something like this:




https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Lay-Flat-Docking-EC-DFLT/dp/B00LS5NFQ2




If the drive still refuses to be recognized by the system, the next step is utilizing software utilities to check for a busted partition table. The knowledge level you'll want for both this step and moving on from here takes a significant jump up from steos previous so if you're a basic level user, I'd stop at this point and find a guy in person that might help.

It might be as simple as a repairing the partition table but if it were my drive, I'd be getting a new identical HDD and cloning it bitwise in an attempt to preserve the original if anything goes wrong and attempting the next recovery steps on the newly-cloned drive.


Hope this helps!

u/beverageninja · 5 pointsr/wiiu

I used a 64 GB SanDisk USB drive for over a year without any issues and only upgraded to an external hard drive because it was running out of space. Older USB drives had a much lower tolerance for the number of read/writes they could perform. Newer brand name USB drives have a much higher threshold.

That said, if you can upgrade to an external drive, do it. Here's what I bought and it works great.

WD Hard Drive

USB Hard Drive Enclousure with power supply

u/Shado_Temple · 5 pointsr/Twitch

the Blue Yeti is hard to beat when it comes to relatively-easy setups for different group configurations, as long as everyone is pretty close.

u/IggySoda · 4 pointsr/AskTechnology

Something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Lay-Flat-Docking-EC-DFLT/dp/B00LS5NFQ2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1523306549

Take the hard drive out of the old system, plug it into this, plug this into your USB port on new computer. Find old files, drag and drop them into new system.

ASSUMING old hard drive isn't dead.

u/justdaman182 · 4 pointsr/xboxone

Without ever taking apart an Xbox One, I do know if you are able to remove the hard drive, all you need after that is either a toaster or an external enclosure.

u/LurkTV · 4 pointsr/Eve

The Desktop.

Was asked for a full parts list. Here is everything in one spot. (xpost)

u/Ladybonerthrow86 · 4 pointsr/GWABackstage

So for recording with my Samsung Note 5, I use the voice recorder app already on there. I've never had an issue with it. I use the Stony Edge Lapel Mic, which just plugs into your headphone jack for anything with the phone now. Haven't done a commute ramble with it yet, but I will.

For other recording purposes, I use a Blue Yeti Blackout Edition, and have a Blue Microphones Snowball USB Microphone, Cardioid Mode(Gloss Black) for mobile use (i.e. traveling). I have a generic pop filter I picked up at a music store, and a DR Pro Tripod Mic Stand with Telescoping Boom for streaming and recording at home.

The Yeti is a pretty popular mid-price mic for GWA peeps. Snowball is a GREAT starter mic though. My dream mic is a toss up between the Shure SM7B and the AT2035 (both please?)

For desktop recording/editing, a lot of people use Audacity, which is what I started with. I now use Reaper Pro to record, and Izotope RX6 for editing.

Disclaimer: None of these Amazon links are referral links, and I earn no money from them

u/barndenn · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Rubber domes underneath the housing of the Cooler Master Devastator keyboard.

I have the keyboard mouse combo from Cooler Master and this Razer Keyboard has similar housing based on what I saw when I removed a keycap on the Devastator.

u/fatninjamke · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/gimli123262 · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I recommend this. It is a great numpad for the money, and can be a great project if you want to change the switches it uses.

u/Strottinglemon · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Just buy a separate tenkey, this one is amazing for $20. Plus it's not anchored to the side of your keyboard, so you can put it to the left if you prefer to enter data with your left hand or put it to the right of the mouse so your hands can be closer together.

u/ambelie · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Honestly, I just use this one. The switches are kind of shit in my personal opinion, but it's easy to take apart and desolder so you can solder new switches into it. It's cheap and not too bad looking.

u/rohtarozer · 4 pointsr/Games

To add on to the other answer, if you're into a really big SD card u/cowsareverywhere posted this on the switch subreddit. A 200 GB for 70 bucks.

https://www.amazon.com/Sandisk-Ultra-200GB-Micro-Adapter/dp/B073JY5T7T

u/MoogleMan3 · 4 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Saves are stored on the system, not the memory card. So card corruption wouldn't hurt your saves. Wherever you read otherwise is false.

Currently the best deal on microsd cards. Or the 128GB for $29.

u/TheLimeyCanuck · 4 pointsr/Damnthatsinteresting

Nope, its 200GB. The 256GB ones didn't show up for nearly a year after I bought it.

u/CalBearFan · 4 pointsr/sysadmin

I run this one -> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FBK3QK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00. Got it on sale for $97. It can connect via USB to a VM running on ESXI that can send a shutdown signal to your other hosts/machines. Won't power everything for long but has some good configuration options. Overall I'm very happy with it.

u/BruceCarpenter2113 · 4 pointsr/DataHoarder

I've been using this for a couple of years with no problems:

https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-ProBox-HF2-SU3S2-SATA-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4

They have an 8-bay as well, if you want to go larger...

u/Shawn_miller · 4 pointsr/PleX

I have the ProBox and have been using it for a few years.

About a year ago I put a noctura fan on the back as the stock one was a bit loud. Over time

Works great

u/Trash_Golem · 4 pointsr/hardware

I recommend the Logitech G400. It's like the G500, but with less bells and whistles, and a better sensor. If you must have programmable buttons, just go with the G500.

A good attempt at the 'best of both worlds' is the newer G400S, but I don't have any personal experience with it. As far as I know, it's just an improved version of the G400, with more features.

u/ryuhyoko · 4 pointsr/shittybattlestations

Theyre discontinued now so I doubt you would find a new one. They were replaced by the g400 and that got discontinued as well. The next closest would be the g402 hyperion fury or the g403.

u/LightSpawn · 4 pointsr/gaming

I've been using these for close to a year now and I'm loving them.

EDIT: Whoops, I see they're not so cheap now. I remember when I bought them they were around $50. I see the price has gone up since then.

u/trident00 · 4 pointsr/pcgaming
u/jphlips1794 · 4 pointsr/oculus

Here's what I bought for USB and HDMI, and they work perfectly.

I'm on mobile and too lazy to edit links. Here ya go.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3zhDzbSZCTTRH

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ517VI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RBhDzb3RJK5NV

u/slickprime · 4 pointsr/WindowsMR

I use these usb cables
Cable Matters USB to USB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

And this hdmi
AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H91KE?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

u/F0UR_TWENTY · 4 pointsr/oculus

If you want to do 10ft extensions on the Rift S you need high quality cables, at least for the usb 3.0. I use Cables Matters usb and displayport cables to do 10ft on my Rift S. Nothing I have seen will allow the Rift S to do longer than 10 feet extensions.

The amazon basics 10ft usb cable would not work for me and I returned it and the cables matter one did. You also need a good usb port, in my case I needed to order an Inateck ktu3fr-4p usb card to have my Rift S work without and black screens or static passthrough problems.

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Extension-Feet/dp/B00L1K1KDE/

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Extension-Black-Feet/dp/B00C7SA21U/

https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/

u/artmanphil · 4 pointsr/oculus

Na klar! (Sure thing!)

Cable Matters USB extension https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lindy Displayport extension https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00GUSALS2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

In case your Oculus Rift S Controller get stuck or the Passthrough doesn't work/shows snow, plug the cables out of the extension and in again. I had that once, probably because the cable didn't sit well and the USB-energy was cut briefly.

u/PMental · 4 pointsr/oculus

I used these for the USB (5m or ~16ft) works with both Rift and Sensor): https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Active-Extension-Extender-Female/dp/B0179MXKU8

And a passive 3m (~10ft) HDMI 2.0 extension: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Microconnect-HDMI-M-F-3m-HDMI-Cables-HDMI-HDMI-Male-Female-Gold-Black/191955932795

They are connected to and work well with my ASUS Z97-K motherboard for the USB and a Sapphire R9 290X GPU (on of the Tri-X OC'd ones).

Ymmv.

u/TalonX273 · 4 pointsr/OculusQuest

Might be a difference in hardware, but I'm actually floored at how little latency there is. Any latency I felt I could effortlessly compensate for. Via Link, I played my usual Beat Saber Expert + maps on Steam VR. It felt damn near identical to my CV1 (tri-sensor setup) allowing me to get my usual scores. What really surprised me was the lack of occasional stuttering in Beat Saber I normally got from my CV1 setup. I can only describe what team Oculus has done as pure black magic! Like you said though, it's not on the level of an Index PCVR setup. But holy crap, at the price point and added portability, it's more than good enough for most!

For reference, my setup is: i5-3570K, GTX 1060 6GB, Inatek 4-port USB 3 PCI card, CableCreations USB 3 Active extension cable, and Anker 6ft USB C-to-3.0 cable. Might order the 10ft cable for more mobility.

u/Nibiria · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

It's not eBay but here's the cheapest one on Amazon.

The only modern one I know of is the Ducky Pocket.

u/PeacockPanzer · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

This one, I think. I own one and it's very nice for the price.

u/kojin · 4 pointsr/Surface

So one of these is a possible, and slightly ridiculous, stop-gap?

u/SurfaceDockGuy · 4 pointsr/Surface

Hi,

We always encourage customers to try getting the most out of their machines before buying new stuff. However there comes a point when attempting to restore old equipment can lead to major frustration. The following steps can help and certainly worth a shot:

  • To free SSD space try this: https://www.reddit.com/r/Surface/comments/5h0zpe/save_up_to_9gb_on_ssd_clean_up_cwindowsinstaller/
  • To improve performance, you can try downloading the latest Intel GPU driver from intel.com rather than using the Microsoft provided one. IIRC, the intel.com HD 4400 driver had about 9 months of extra development on it. You may need to manually uninstall your current driver via device manager in order to install the Intel one since it will complain that it is not designed for your computer. There is a risk of unintended side-effects, but it is 100% reversible.
  • Does the CPU fan spin often? If so, it could be clogged with dust reducing its effectiveness. You can try getting a can of compressed air and blowing it into the slats - don't worry, you're not going to ruin the fan by over-spinning it or moving dust around the machine with this technique. It is unlikely to have a major effect but worth a shot.
  • If the system is getting rather hot and throttling the CPU, you can add an auxiliary USB-powered fan and point it towards the hot area. Its surprising how effective this is: https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Breeze-Mobile-Flexible-Portable/dp/B003XN24GY

    Cheers,

    Dan

    -----
    P.S. The newer Surface Pro 2017 or Pro 6 with Core i5/8GB ram would be an excellent upgrade for you if you choose to go in that direction.

u/ClearBucket · 4 pointsr/AskNYC

Battery backups, I have about 6. I got them for protecting my electronics but they come in handy for times like these. Plug an low watt LED bulb lamp into one of the packs for light.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00429N19W/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_NcilDb5CJP9DP

A Swiss army knife, cause you never know.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00006IS69/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_TeilDbK97VAKG

Food that can be heated with a camp stove, I got the camp stove, a small pot, and the food from REI. Not always needed it's there for emergency and camping. A long click lighter and the long lasting candle as backup. Most important water, I have a Berkey that holds ~3.5 gallons, it's for filtering but holds enough on days the water needs to be shut off for drinking.

Kind of makes me sound like a survival nut, haha, however, life has just brought me things for separate needs, works out.

u/gizm770o · 4 pointsr/livesound

I prefer CyberPower over APC.

I have this one (http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W/ref=pd_sim_e_12?ie=UTF8&refRID=0GEVK7BJS39AB658HGJN) but it is available in a rackmount form factor as well. Super solid unit. Saved my ass more than once.

u/Droid126 · 4 pointsr/DataHoarder

I use this cyberpower ups
I've configured my main pc to just shut down on power loss. which takes about 15 seconds. I tried to see how long it would run on battery, it ran about 40 mins. it runs my modem and router for about 2 hours. Mostly it just smooths out the power for me because the grid where I live is iffy. and it registers roughly 5-8 events per day. and Ive had it for almost a year and its still great.

u/Jessie_James · 4 pointsr/homeowners

Bummer. Here's another one.

The basic idea is you need a sine wave UPS to run motors, etc. There may be other ones that cost less, BTW, that was just the first one I found.

If you really want to get crazy, you can buy inverters that connect to 12v car batteries. I used to have one of these hooked up to 4 car batteries to run a small server farm. That thing would run for over a day, full load. Just be sure you get deep cycle batteries.

u/JohnAV1989 · 4 pointsr/PleX

This is what I use and highly recommend. It's pure sine wave, cheaper than an APC and includes a super simple utility for configuring automatic shutdown. I had a simulated sine wave prior to this and although it worked my psu made a lot of awful noises when running of the battery so I'd urge you to spend the few extra bucks to get pure sine.

https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W

The cli utility also provides lots of good info like remaining battery percentage, remaining runtime, and power draw. I found a nagios plugin for it and now I've got the data graphing in grafana so I can see how much power my server is drawing and average cost/year to run it. That part was just for fun of course but gives you an idea of how useful the utility is.

u/meauwschwitz · 4 pointsr/homelab

The cyberpower PFC line work pretty well, but run between $130 and $200.

Amazon Smile Link

u/concussion962 · 4 pointsr/homelab

I have the "Executive" model personally. The servers are on the bottom shelf (but I need to do something to make getting into the r510 easier since its the bottom of the two), the printer on the top, and the UPS sitting on the side in the closet in my office. Honestly, the loudest thing in the closet is a tossup between the UPS and the printer...

u/Y0tsuya · 4 pointsr/techsupport

Just read your update. The BN600G is what we call a bottom-of-the-barrel UPS. It's just a simple switch-over UPS with surge protection. No filtering or AVR. It won't help you much at all if your house is suffering from poor-quality power. You COULD do what others have said and just try to power your PC using the UPS, but that el-cheapo UPS outputs square wave instead of sine-wave and newer PC PSUs don't like that one bit.

Step up to a better quality UPS like the Cyberpower CP850PFCLCD. You can get higher-powered models for a bit more. This series does AVR and outputs sine-wave that won't stress PC PSUs.

u/stilljustacatinacage · 4 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

Holy frick that is so much cheaper than the Cyberpower one I was going to buy (two of!) from Amazon.

Thanks!

Edit: Oh, it's cheaper because, despite APC's claims of PFC compatibility, it's a stepped sinewave output. Rip. Thanks anyway!

u/jwittenmyer · 4 pointsr/battlefield3

The MX518 is no longer made and can be tough to find (though it is in stock at Amazon right now). Logitech just came out with the G400 to replace it. It's very similar in size, shape, and button layout with an improved sensor. I have a G5 and just recently bought a G500, they're both great. I wrestled between the G400 and the G500, but went with the G500 because it has adjustable sens, adjustable weight, and a laser sensor.

Also, don't forget about a good mouse pad! A good pad will improve your game at least as much as a good mouse. I have a Razer eXactMat (which is now tough to find) and a SteelSeries 4HD. I prefer the Razer, because it's aluminum and two-sided, but the SteelSeries does the job for half the cost.

u/mjike · 4 pointsr/xboxone

The S only has three ports. I was in the same situation where one port was dedicated to an external HDD, the 2nd was for my headset and the 3rd port alternated between Wheel/Charge Cable.

I picked up the Anker and adhered it to the rear of my console. Problem solved and I can now use the Kinect USB adapter

u/Awhite2555 · 4 pointsr/xboxone

So I've been wanting to make a thread about that, and I just haven't. Would installing something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_o94QybH7VVPMM

work in the back of the console? I want to add another HDD to my XB1s but I don't want it in front and my back two ports are used by a drive and Kinect. Would a hub cause a downgrade in performance? I actually don't really understand how they work truthfully, especially for an Xbox.

u/zealeus · 4 pointsr/FTC

The way we do it:

- Use this Anker Hub

- Plug both your REB Hub & USB Camera into the Anker Hub.

- Hub USB connects to your phone with the OTG adapter.

- On the RC Phone: load a New Config; you'll see Expansion Hub Portal 1 and a Webcam. We didn't need to do any further configuration to the Webcam on the phone, so long as the webcam config name matches up with your code (just like calling a motor "left_front_motor").

u/lazy-zebra · 4 pointsr/computers

Usb passthroughs are a more premium thing, and with a quick amazon search, I could not find one in your price range with a usb passthrough. You could always get a cheaper 1080p monitor, and get a usb hub
This is a good monitor

This is a good hub

Edit: formatting

u/seifer93 · 4 pointsr/PSP

I have 32 GB and I found myself playing maybe 2 or 3 games at any given time.

SD cards are cheap enough though that there's little point to getting a tiny SD card and having to pull your card in and out every time you want to play something different.

Smaller cards are also ridiculously expensive for what you're getting. A 32 GB Sandisk costs $10.59 or $0.33/GB. An 8 GB Sandisk costs $7.08 or $0.88/GB. You're paying 50% more for a 300% increase in capacity. It's a no brainer.

u/csd1722 · 4 pointsr/hardwareswap

Anything wrong with buying new? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010Q588D4

u/BabyPuncher5000 · 4 pointsr/Games

SD cards are dirt fucking cheap

u/RarelyNecessary · 3 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

USB-C or USB 3? I can't think of any audio interfaces that use USB-C (correct me if I"m wrong here), and most MIDI to USB adapters I've seen also don't use USB-C.

Actually looking at the specs for the macbook pro and holy god there's literally only 2 ports and they're both USB-C that's so awful. Like I said, most MIDI-to-USB adapters and audio interfaces use USB type A plugs, so you'll need an adapter or a hub anyway to be able to use them (might as well get both in one, imo).

If you get a USB C to USB hub, it would be USB 3 to USB 3, so they should all have the same speed (I think there are sometimes issues of having enough power to send to everything but don't quote me on that and as long as you don't have like 10 things plugged in you're fine).

Another option would be to get an interface with built-in MIDI support but tbh you'll probably need the hub anyways if you plan to do more than 2 things at a time ever.

(If you're not sure where to look, Amazon Basics has a Type C to Type A hub that's USB 3.1, or Anker makes a cheaper one that's got great reviews)

u/Ghostcart · 3 pointsr/gpdwin

Evecase 5.6 x 5.6 x 3.5 inch Camera Bag.
Chose this after trying too long to find a 3DS bag that didn't have horrible straps. $16 with Prime

Anker USB 3.0 4* USB tap.
Obviously, you need to have more than 1 USB port to do much, like using a mouse with a usb drive.
$9 with Prime.

Cable Matters Mini HDMI male to HDMI Female cable 2 pack.
Minor shaving required. Not tested extensively.
$10 with Prime.

Lexar USB 3.0 Micro SD Card Reader
If you want to use a ferry card or temporarily pop your card of choice into a computer, one of these is incredibly helpful. Plus it's tiny. You can probably get one cheaper if you don't want the 32GB card included.
$33 with Prime.

Standard XBOne Controller.
Works without any need to mess with dongles on Windows 10. It'll even work with headphones/sets.
$35-$50ish, depending on color and luck.

Venom Xbox One Rechargeable Battery Twin Pack.
I don't recommend these in particular, but a rechargeable pack is a must if you don't want to guzzle batteries.
$17 with Prime.

Logitech Wireless Mouse M185.
Pretty reliable, but only has the standard 2 mouse buttons plus tilting and clicking mousewheel. Receiver stores inside nicely.
$13 with Prime.

Kid Icarus Folding 3DS Stand That I Had In A Box.
Needs a little rubber bumper to help secure the Win properly.
$10 with Prime.

Perrix Asymetrical Folding Keyboard.
This one might be tough to find, but it works amazingly. The weird fold system pushes the main hinge off to the side, so it is less likely to fold the moment you put it on your lap. It also completely hides the hinge when the keyboard is unfolded. A bit cramped, but the keys are properly clicky laptop keys.
For image and model reference

Anker PowerCore 26800 Portable Charger*
While looking for my power pack, I found this one. Seems to be a flat upgrade. 26800mAh with 3
4.8A output USB ports. Also has 2 micro usb inputs for double the charge speed?
$59.99 with Prime.

Other possible pack-ins.

Bluetooth Numpads.
If you're primarily going to be gaming, you might want to drop the full keyboard in favor of a bit of space plus one of these. Works nicely with a mouse if you rebind with HIDMacros. Also more tiny airport/college desk friendly. Example unit is $30

Similarly, you might want to try a half controller + mouse option using a device like the
Nintendo Joy-Con's left unit. Drivers are still being worked on though, so only get this if you're up for beta troubles.
$50ish, but you can get lucky on eBay.

SanDisk Ultra Fit 128GB USB 3.0 flash drive.
The one in all the Win lists I've seen, but I figured I'd list it here for convenience.
$45 with Prime.

Batteries
All this stuff takes a total of 3 AAA (2 for the keyboard, 1 for the numpad) and 1 AA battery that will need replacing eventually. I hesitate to recommend rechargeable ones, as I have yet to find a micro charger for them.

Inateck USB 3.0 Ethernet + 3 USB 3.0 port adapter.
You might want to replace the 4 port one with one like this if you plan to do network maintenance, secure data transfer, or just plain download things quickly.

$20 with Prime.

PS4 Controller.
Some people prefer this to the XBOne one. It's lighter in the hand (and bag), comes with a built in rechargeable battery with absurd life, and has a touchpad with 4 physical buttons underneath. Can do some pretty crazy things with the touchpad via Steam's controller customization, but has weaker compatibility with non-Steam applications. Also works with PS4 Remote Play.
Worth noting that, unlike the ps3 controller, this can charge directly from any micro usb power supply. Headset support seems to require the official receiver dongle, sold separately.
Controller Alone: $40-60 Depending on color. Silver's cheapest.
Adapter Alone: $66
Controller + Adapter Bundle: $66

Budget 1 Handed Controller**
Hey, if you want to try 1/2 Controller + Mouse, why start off pricey?
$10

Phew, that's about all I have on hand.

u/elvinelmo · 3 pointsr/SuggestALaptop

To go low budget and have the best build quality I would suggest the Acer Swift 3. The aluminum body makes it almost toddler proof. It has enough power to manage all you need it too and will last you through college. To get more usb ports you could use a hub

  • 14" Full HD Laptop
  • 7th Gen Intel Core i5-7200U
  • 8GB RAM
  • Intel 512GB NVMe SSD
  • Thin Aluminum Body
u/LoveCheeze · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

I bought this Anker last week with a 3.0 extender - after minor tweaking, works like a charm

u/sumwhatkiller · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Here's a charger for 3.99

You're spending too much on your hdmi cables, unless you're running 4K or need your Raspberry Pi for FPS games, then a dollar store one should be fine. Even some of those support 4K 60hz (hdmi 2.0)
Here's one for 1.50

As for the micro SD card, I would say you wouldn't need nearly that much space and MicroSD cards are getting much cheaper. Pi can only play old games which won't take up much room anyway. 16gb is plenty.
16gb
32gb
Or this one

So all in after the $35 pi, which if you're getting one of the older versions would be cheaper, it'll cost you just under 50 USD and you get the fun of building it.

u/Rucka4prez · 3 pointsr/WiiHacks

Amazon has a 32 gig for $14

u/bbartokk · 3 pointsr/modular
u/RoseOfSharonCassidy · 3 pointsr/Miami

I use this one.

The other poster is wrong about there being no such thing as a high endurance SD card. The dashcam manual specifies that you must use a "class 10" MicroSD. This MicroSD is class 2 and would likely fail after six months to a year (and given my luck, it would fail 15 minutes before I was in an accident, haha).

If you check /r/dashcam there is some good discussion there about what MicroSD cards are appropriate and what cams are best.

u/confterm · 3 pointsr/PSP

I just bought the following for my PSP 3000:

Adapter
SD Card

Got them based on multiple Amazon reviews of people verifying that the combo works with the PSP 3000. I can update later to say if there were any problems if that will help you with your search.

u/disappointer · 3 pointsr/Portland

I built one earlier this year (and another for a friend):

  • Pi3, $37
  • case, $6
  • power supply, $10
  • microSD card, $10

    So for about $60, you have the hardware. Assembly is easy. The software part is relatively trivial:

  • Download ROMs
  • Download disk image for RetroPi
  • Install the image (download a tool to help) onto the SD card (may need a USB adapter)
  • Upload the ROMs on to the image
  • Plug it in to your TV

    It works with a wide array of controllers. I use my PS4 controllers with it and it works like a champ.
u/JackSparrowUSA · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Get a Sandisk or Samsung 64gb or 128gb Micro SDXC card. This is the one I have and I'm very happy with it:

Samsung 128GB 100MB/s (U3) MicroSD EVO Select Memory Card with Adapter (MB-ME128GA/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XWZWYVP

Here's a 64gb Sandisk which would work well:

SanDisk Ultra 64GB microSDXC UHS-I Card with Adapter, Grey/Red, Standard Packaging (SDSQUNC-064G-GN6MA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010Q588D4

u/upparoom · 3 pointsr/dashcams

This is what I use and its about as good as you can get for your budget https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IEQUABA

Records really well at night, better than 1080p resolution so it captures details like license plates and people moving around in the car. Comes with everything you need including a cable to get power from the cigarette lighter in your car. Get a decent 64GB high speed micro SD card like this one https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-microSDXC-Standard-Packaging-SDSQUNC-064G-GN6MA/dp/B010Q588D4 and youre set for less than $150.

u/My_Police_Box · 3 pointsr/techsupport

Something like this should work just fine in your phone. I suggest that one as many phones can take more than a 64GB SD card.

u/neuromonkey · 3 pointsr/AndroidQuestions

> I don't want to end up slowing down my phone due to a poor card choice.

You won't. If the card is only to be used with an S4, speed isn't a major concern. The phone doesn't shoot 4k video.

Sandisk 64GB for $23

Depending on your local stores, Walmart has carried the Samsung 64GB Class 10 for as little as $7!!

u/ThriftStoreHalos · 3 pointsr/Amd

I did the same thing and built my PC in the middle of July and still am only missing my card. I bought a cheap $10usd gpu to make sure everything worked properly and install all my other drivers and software.

And that way, I can make myself be a little more patient knowing my build is stable and running.

In case you go that route, I had to also purchase a cheap DVI to HDMI to use it, FYI.

u/coptician · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Note: SCART is hopelessly outdated and will not, even if you got an adapter, provide any usable image quality for a PC.

If your PC has DVI, a DVI -> HDMI (male DVI, female HDMI) adapter will work.

If it has Displayport, a Displayport -> HDMI (male Displayport, female HDMI) adapter will also work.

You might also find straight DVI-HDMI and Displayport-HDMI cables. If so they both need to be male. Note that the Displayport one must go FROM Displayport TO HDMI.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-HDMI-DVI-Adapter-Cable/dp/B014I8UQJY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1466097382&sr=8-5&keywords=hdmi+adapter

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B005H3I38Q/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1466097382&sr=8-12&keywords=hdmi+adapter

as examples of either.

u/CatacombSkeleton · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Kind of weird question, but I need help finding the right HDMI adapter.

I have a really old Edifier 3300 set, and my cables that plugs into the headphone jack finally snapped. I have no idea where to get a replacement though. I've looked online and the closest I got to was this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8UQJY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_UrMNBb4JYA74T

This cord doesn't have the right number of pins however, mine has 9 pins, 5 at the top 4 at the bottom and the same screw in connection.

I'm not sure if I'm explaining this accurately but what I want to know is what cable and I looking for here? (I want it to be HDMI for use with my PS4)

u/GShepherd9 · 3 pointsr/PFSENSE

A relatively inexpensive UPS could run a pfsense appliance for 3 hours. Not to mention the numerous benefits of AVR besides keeping the OS stable.
UPS: https://smile.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK/
Appliance: https://store.netgate.com/SG-3100.aspx

u/FireReadyAim · 3 pointsr/homelab

This isn't from personal experience, but the people I've talked to suggested cyberpower emphatically until you are into the fairly high end units.

If you're looking into high end rack mount units, or the crazy refridgerator size units, APC is good. It looks like you're looking in the $150 range, in which case everything I have heard would suggest that APC is a poor choice.

Incidentally, it looks like you're looking into the nicer version of the one that I have: http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-1500VA-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=pd_sim_e_3

Which has given me zero problems. I use it for my desktop, I intend to pick up another for my router/modem/file server in the near future. The software reckons that I have 24 minutes of battery and am currently using 186 watts.

u/AverageJoeAudiophile · 3 pointsr/audio

While both of those are probably better choices, the Alesis M1 is just under $80, but the M-Audio is $150, 2 and 3 times what the OP was looking to spend.

Not everyone wants or need's audiophile or even entry level equipment.

If the $50 budget is a pretty hard limit, check out these they are the highest rated 2.1 PC speakers in your budget range.

As long as you understand the limitations of them I'm sure they will work just fine.

u/ICanBeHandyToo · 3 pointsr/buildapc

These are what I've got, and I think they're great. I'm no audiophile, but for the price they are pretty darn good.

u/_Chantastic_ · 3 pointsr/AskReddit

Get some speakers

Great for when you come back drunk. I have the model listed above, great value.

u/oxidius · 3 pointsr/DataHoarder

they are, here's an example

I bough the first enclosure 4 years ago and it still works. But from what I read, the external power-supply is the weak link. The enclosure draws 5W + your drive wattage, so it's fairly reasonable. The fan is ok, it provides enough airflow on low so it's not that loud, but you can change it with a noctua if you really want ;)

The bottleneck on this setup is the usb3.0 interface on the laptop, I get around 90MBps (for my archival needs it's fine). But when I pluged it directly to my main computer I managed to get around 150MBps if I remember correctly.

u/EchoGecko795 · 3 pointsr/DataHoarder

>Do you own this case?

I have 4 of them in use at my home server setup right now, I setup and install 10-20 a year else where.


>How do you like it?

It is nice for the price of less than $150, if you remove the rackmount points it works like a tower. The case is solid, however removing and installing the 5 in 3 adapter is a bit tricky since it uses a click and lock system. you can easily screw them in though. I have had bad luck with the fans, they usually come with cheap fans that use molex adapters only. They are usually 2000 RPM 35 dba 45 CFM fans, if they work. You may get lucky but plan on replacing the fans otherwise.

>If they had a hot-swap version of the 15-bay model, I'd probably have bought it in a heartbeat.

You can buy and put in the 3 in 5 bays, but you will be adding about $50 per bay so $150

>As for the DAS unit you mentioned...is that basically this but much bigger? https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-ProBox-HF2-SU3S2-SATA-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4/ref=sr_1_1

>I'd be open to a DAS, but unRaid doesn't seem to like any external drives, even if they're shucked and in that Mediasonic ProBox.

This unit uses SAS connectors (they will work with SATA drives), I opened one and there is no 3.3v power line on the system, so WD white drives should work in it. The units I have are 16 Bay. The rear 80mm fans are noisy, but they are ment for use with power hunger SAS drives, so replacing them with standard 80mm fans works. The real issue is that there is a 1U power supply inside with a 40 mm fan. It is not that noisy, but makes the most annoying sound.

Use the multi lane SAS adapter 8087, so it looks like an internal drive. The unit I listed the SE3016, has no internal power down the drives mode, so it only listens to the host computer. From what I understand with unRaid (Big ZFS Fan here) the issue with external drives is that they go into power save mode, making them look dead to the array.

u/digitalmarley · 3 pointsr/PleX

I've been using this Mediasonic enclosure for the last few months and it works great, with USB 3.0 transfer rates are pretty decent. I have 4 reds in there and the cooling fan rarely turns on or gets hot. I am supporting both LAN and remote streaming and it works great.

Mediasonic ProBox HF2-SU3S2 4 Bay 3.5" SATA HDD Enclosure - USB 3.0 & eSATA Support SATA 3 6.0Gbps HDD transfer speed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003X26VV4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0wbvDbDZRJHCN

u/mrcaptncrunch · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Check out this, http://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-HF2-SU3S2-ProBox-Drive-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1397042978&sr=1-1&keywords=mediasonic+probox

It's an enclosure, you put your drives inside of it and it exposes all the individual drives to your computer, the Pi in this case.

u/hab136 · 3 pointsr/DataHoarder

I installed FreeNAS and Plex on an old PC, and it grew from there, haha. I bought equipment piecemeal, and after a few years I started buying more serious equipment.

These drives are going in an MD1000 (see second picture) which is hooked up to the server via a SAS cable and an HBA (PCI-E card). I'll use ZFS to turn them into one giant filesystem, which is then shared out over NFS and CIFS (Windows filesharing).

This is my move into more professional hardware; my existing drives are in these little 4-bay SATA enclosures. They're relatively cheap to expand with, but when one SATA drive dies, the other 3 drives in the enclosure tend to get knocked off the bus also. That's the main reason I went with slightly more expensive SAS drives and enclosure this time.

u/werdna_somar · 3 pointsr/HomeServer

What OS? I just got a Mediasonic Provocative 4-bay with USB 3.0. https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-ProBox-HF2-SU3S2-SATA-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4

It presents the 4 hard drives as separate USB hard drives on Windows 10, but not sure about other OSs.

u/mishac · 3 pointsr/PleX

I"m running either that same mediasonic box or a very similar one, and I'm very happy with it. The only issue I have is the blinking blue lights are stupidly bright.

EDIT: It's acutally this one that I have, which is the same thing but without the RAID. I use ZFS so I didn't need the hardware RAID functionality.

u/redsfan277 · 3 pointsr/torrents

4TB 2TB and a 1 TB

http://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-ProBox-HF2-SU3S2-SATA-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1459222381&sr=8-2&keywords=probox

I usually bought the drives on sales or when it was fairly cheap. The 4tb was around 110$ when i got it

u/17thspartan · 3 pointsr/DataHoarder

Sure. There's plenty of disk bays that connect to the PC via USB 3 or esata. I have a Drobo, which has served me well, but my next purchase will likely be something cheaper than that. I've been running it nearly 24/7 since I bought it 4 years ago (there was a month or two when my PC was off, so the drobo was in sleep mode).

There's a wide range of things like that available. Just search 5 Bay enclosure or 5 hdd Bay on Amazon (I'm on my phone or else I'd link you).

Edit: Mediasonic ProBox HF2-SU3S2 4 Bay 3.5" SATA HDD Enclosure - USB 3.0 & eSATA Support SATA 3 6.0Gbps HDD transfer speed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003X26VV4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_E62LybZ817YQM

That's a 4 bay drive for 99 dollars. But just FYI, I don't know much about what hardware is good or reliable for USB drives (or Nas for that matter). It's something I plan to figure out or ask about when I get the money to buy a new enclosure or Nas.

And it should be noted that while I've had a good experience with Drobo (it's super easy to use, you can swap out drives for larger ones when you need to, and it can protect against one or two simultaneous drive failures), they use a proprietary RAID. That means if your drobo enclosure dies, you'll need to get it fixed, or replace it with another Drobo before you can recover the data on your hdds. I've read thaf migrating from one drobo to another is easy, and you don't need to know which order your drives are in or anything like that.

u/qverb · 3 pointsr/PleX

Try a ProBox; its still external, but can hold 4 or 8 drives and is relatively cheap (unless you need the RAID version). I have 6 of the 4-bays and they work perfect.

u/firejup · 3 pointsr/DataHoarder

Here you go, and room to grow. USB3 works fine. If you want to use the ESATA you'll need something that supports port multiplication.

https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-ProBox-HF2-SU3S2-SATA-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549057702&sr=8-1&keywords=mediasonic+probox

u/johnny5ive · 3 pointsr/sffpc

Do you need more sata ports or do you need more HDD/SDD storage? You could get a something like this to hold your other drives.

u/Monatigo · 3 pointsr/DataHoarder

You can do the Mediasonic Probox line for that. I have the one without RAID, but use software (DrivePool) for redundancy. It works great via USB. My only complaint is the back fan can be loud.

https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-ProBox-HF2-SU3S2-SATA-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4

They also make one with RAID built in:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003YFHEAC/ref=emc_b_5_t

u/zachisonreddit · 3 pointsr/PleX

Hey there - sounds like you are just trying to consolidate a bunch of external HDs, is that right? When I was at that "stage" in my Plex build I got something like this ProBox, connected to the computer running Plex. Never had issues with it, started with 2 drives, had 4 before I moved them over to my current unRAID server.

u/Luckoduck · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Do consoles come with Speakers or a monitor? You don't need a headset, you can use a tv as a monitor. You can get a free OS or one for $20 max at /r/softwareswap. Keyboard and mouse here for $30

u/GoingIntoOverdrive · 3 pointsr/keyboards

I've had a look at the devastator combo and it definitely looks interesting at that pricepoint. However, I would offer the following:

  1. What do you want from your keyboard? Do you want to improve your typing experience or looking to enhance your gaming? Either way, shelling out more money will get you better ergonomics (reduced strain, increased longevity, etc.) and in most cases a big increase in how long a board can stay with you.
  2. Have you considered mechanical switches? I switched a little while back and now I can't imagine buying rubber dome again. It's not because of elitism, it's simply a better experience for me all round and I now live in the knowledge that the board I have will be with me for some time.

    There are some really decent boards at reasonable pricepoints scattered all about. The immediate ones that come to mind are:

  3. Corsair K65
  4. CM Storm Quickfire Rapid
  5. Rosewill RK-6000

    Granted, these are above the pricepoint mentioned for the devastator but if you're willing, the ergonomics and quality of these boards should vastly outweigh it.

    As mentioned, have a look at /r/mechanicalkeyboards once you have a feel for what you want in a keyboard. If you spend significant amount of time behind a computer in the first place (gaming + work can easily soak up dozens of hours a week) then investing in quality kit seems like a good idea.

    If you think the Devastator set looks awesome and fits your needs, by all means go for it. Be sure to post pics and your experience when you get it!

    EDIT: For reference, have a quick look at the reviews being posted on Amazon. Though not the most reputable source, they do seem to highlight a number of concerns for this combo with build quality and polish. Most notably the fact that the scroll lock key is used to turn the LEDs on and off on the keyboard but simultaneously also turns that function on. This may be a problem if you use programs that respond to that key being on. In addition, it appears that a) the keys are not particularly well-finished and may have some chips in them and b) when the LEDs are off you can't see the writing on the keys. Not a problem if you're a touch typist but if you tend to look at the board while typing you may have issues.

    Linky: http://www.amazon.com/CM-Storm-Devastator-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B00DKXXAAQ
u/wangnutpie1 · 3 pointsr/pcgaming

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DKXXAAQ/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_l5Cfub0D6M3BK

Bought this about a month ago when it was $30. Haven't had any complaints about them yet. Pretty nice for the price

u/XDuFELL · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Lol its a backlit keyboard that's off since the computer is off, this is what it looks like when its on. I do agree it looks pretty cool when its off though

u/Hothabanero6 · 3 pointsr/Surface

Sounds like a power problem however, an SD card shouldn't need that much power.
The Surface USB port provides the standard base 900ma only.

I use the Amazon 4 port powered Hub with my SP3 & S3, mostly unpowered unless I specifically need to plug in the power.

u/upcboy · 3 pointsr/Surface

I don't use a Case or a Sleeve so I can't comment on that, But for a USB port I use this Amazon USB 3.0 Powered Hub. I also have a StarTech Gigabit network Adapter that works Great! I've tried several different External Controllers(I assume you mean Game Controllers) and the best I've found is my PS4 Controller. It connects to the SP3 and works with out any real setup. I also Purchased this last night to carry it in (it wont be in for a few days so I can't comment on the quality) STM Alley Small

u/remembertosmilebot · 3 pointsr/wiiu

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

this

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

u/plutPWNium · 3 pointsr/WindowsMR

This happened to me a few times after getting extansion cables for my hmd(O+). I read a powered usb hub can fix it, so I got one off amazon. It seems to work. I also had my usb microphone plugged into the hub after I got it, and for whatever reason my pc wasn't recognizing the mic, so I stopped using the hub and plugged it directly into my pc(along with the HMD). I got the static sound again, and plugged the HMD back into the hub, and hasn't happened since, so I'm pretty sure its not a placebo.

u/Teamyuss · 3 pointsr/xboxone

I use this one AmazonBasics 4 Port USB 3.0 Hub with 5V/2.5A power adapter
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQFGH80/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/LitePenguins · 3 pointsr/Surface

I use this one, it works very well for me.

u/broken_radio · 3 pointsr/cordcutters

Sure np, there is a $60 tuner available for XBOX One. I picked up a 50-mile Clearstream Eclipse antenna, connected it directly to the tuner, then the tuner plugs into an open USB port on the back of your XONE. If you're like me I already had a port devoted to my Kinect, and another to a 3TB drive so this filled up all my ports (you can buy a hub for relatively cheap that takes care of this problem). Anyway...once you plug everything in the XBOX will recognize your new device and ask if you would like to scan for channels, it also asks for your zip code for the on-screen OTA channel guide that looks quite similar to most cable companies. Finally, it asks if you would like to devote 4 gigs of your HD space to the 30-minute pause function. Very easy to set-up, everything plays right through the XBOX OneGuide app.

Edit: Use this website to see how many free OTA channels you have in your area, as well as how far they are away from you...this will help determine the strength of the antenna you need to buy. https://www.fcc.gov/media/engineering/dtvmaps

u/PandahOG · 3 pointsr/oculus

Its an USB issue. I know, you have probably tried different usb ports ranging from 2.0 to 3.0. You would switch it and it would work just fine for a few days then you are back to reseating the hdmi plug.

There are 2 solutions:

  1. Buy this and install it into your machine.

  2. Be cheap and buy this

    Now option 2 should not work but it does. I had the same exact problem as you. I tried everything and it got to the point the only other option was buying a usb 3.0 pci e card. However, I had option 2 laying around and realized I needed more usb 3.0 ports for my other stuff so I figured why not try my rift. Its been 3 months and I havent had to reseat the hdmi cord or try different usb ports.

    Only issues i have now is what looks like white static whenever it is dark in the game or loading something, but it is all gone when the game starts. Also, sound. My rift sound will cut off after 30 minutes of playing so I have to re-enable it via sound manager.

    Hope this helps because I know how frustrating it was.
u/coach_tjones · 3 pointsr/Roku

So, I have it figured out, mostly.

I had my flash drive (incorrectly calling it a usb stick) plugged into an unpowered usb hub (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) because I also have a Chromecast attached to the tv, powered by the TV's usb port via the hub.

The hub specs say to not have a combined load of over 900ma for stable connections. From what I can tell, the Chromecast draws between 250-420ma depending on idle/use. I can't figure out what the flash drive uses, but somehow both devices being connected to the hub is causing the issue. When I plug the flash drive directly into the TV, everything works like it's supposed to. For note purposes, the 4k TCL TV I have lists itself as being able to provide 1500ma from the usb port. The flash drive is usb 2.0 and the unpowered hub is usb 3.0.

Next step is to try a powered usb hub and see if that fixes everything.

Here is the Roku info on the usb port and hubs, etc. https://support.roku.com/article/230160368-why-does-my-roku-streaming-device-not-recognize-my-external-usb-drive-

u/pontiactaylor110ce · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Maybe get your choice of 4tb 3.5 drive and buy an enclosure (~$20). That would be less than $200 and you'd have a good hard drive also. That's what I'd probably do.

[Here] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LS5NFQ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_J2tFAbWV92NH0)

u/cycleseger · 3 pointsr/mac

https://www.ifixit.com/Store

The best place to find guides to replace parts and the tools needed. I would take out the drive and get an enclosure, I use the one listed here since it supports different style hard drives and I've used it with my old MacBook Pro Hard Drives. https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Lay-Flat-Docking-EC-DFLT/dp/B00LS5NFQ2/ref=sr_1_5?crid=JVCM71A3P4M9&keywords=external+hard+drive+enclosure&qid=1567010984&s=gateway&sprefix=external+hard+drive+e%2Caps%2C124&sr=8-5

u/glowinghamster45 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Network storage can be nice, easily achieved with something like this for single drives. You can also just use them like any other external drive with that case.

Depends completely on your needs/wants.

u/sudonem · 3 pointsr/Atlanta

Is the drive spinning up at all when you turn it on?

If it does spin up, and it's not making loud clanking noises, you can probably handle the recovery on your own.

I always recommend testdisk/photorec since I get the best results with it (and it's free), but it's all command line and not the most friendly user interface so you may want to try something else if you aren't super techy.

There are many to choose from - but other than photorec, you'll probably have to pay for one of the high end ones to get any real results. EaseUS, Recuva, and DiskWarrior (if you're on Mac) are my go-to options.

You may also need a new drive enclosure if your operating systems disk utility doesn't see the drive at all since it could just be the controller on the enclosure you've got. (This would definitely void any warranty you've got with that hard drive if you're worried about that kind of thing).

Mount the drive into the enclosure, and then you can run the recovery software.

If however the drive doesn't spin up, or it's making those clanking noises, then unfortunately you'll need to have it handled by professionals who have a proper clean room to disassemble the drive inside of.

I've been fortunate enough that all of my issues have been something I was able to resolve on my own (I used to do corporate IT work) and I haven't needed to use a service, however I know multiple people who have had great experiences with DataSavers here in town.

Good luck!

u/aurorafluxic · 3 pointsr/linux

If you're looking for total storage space, go mechanical, but go 7200RPM at the very least. If you're just looking to "play around" with Linux, this should be more than enough, and will also be extremely cheap. A WD Blue drive goes for $49, and and a tool-free enclosure goes for $23.

u/Aquagoat · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Yikes. Yeah I would either look to replace that board, or put the drive in a USB 3.0 enclosure and use it externally. The enclosure would be a little safer since the connector is usually solidly attached to the enclosure, not a cable that can wiggle around.

u/Sammer920 · 3 pointsr/techsupport

get a external hard drive dock so you can plug it into another computer like a flash drive almost

something like this : http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Lay-Flat-Docking-EC-DFLT/dp/B00LS5NFQ2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1427637093&sr=8-3&keywords=hdd+docking+station

u/ibizzet · 3 pointsr/headphones

When it comes to mechanical keyboards, condenser mics will pick up those clicks and possibly annoy those you're playing with...

You can go two routes with this:

  1. You can buy a mic and an interface, an interface being like a [Scarlett 2i2](Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 (2nd Gen) USB Audio Interface with Pro Tools | First https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E6T56EA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yoi4ybJBHNM56), along with a dynamic mic (more directional, usually used on a stage because they're less sensitive) such as a [Shure SM58](Shure SM58-LC Vocal Microphone, Cardioid https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CZ0R42/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ppi4ybEA290QY)

    The great thing about this route is the interface also serves as a DAC, a headphone amp, speaker volume knob, and you can also record your voice or instruments if you need to!

  2. This would be going straight up USB mic such as the [Blue Yeti](Blue Yeti USB Microphone - Blackout Edition https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N1YPXW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jri4ybF1D7V80) which is a dynamic mic, or the [Audio-Technical AT2020USB](Audio-Technica AT2020USB PLUS Cardioid Condenser USB Microphone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B5ZX9FM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Wri4ybDRZYM7R) which is a condenser mic (picks up more sounds, usually used in a studio for vocals).

    .

    Remember, when it comes to this stuff, don't always go with the cheapest option. Remember the saying "If you buy cheap, you buy twice." Think about what you want going into the future (i.e. do I want nice speakers, to record anything in the future, etc.). Let me know if you need anymore information!
u/thenappyginger · 3 pointsr/podcasting

blue yeti

I personally do not have one of these, but have a couple friends who use this to record their acapella practices. It has an omnidirectional mode which means you can theoretically place it in the middle of the table and just talk normally. Plus its USB so you won't have to pay $100 for a pre-amp.

Also, I would do some research about EQ and Compression, especially if you use one mic for three people. The EQ will help any echo/muddiness which may show up and compression is in case one person is recorded louder than the other two.

Best of luck starting up! Let me know when it starts up and I'll give it a listen :)

u/Not_A_Red_Stapler · 3 pointsr/French

Thank you for doing this. I can see how it could be a great resource.

I hope you don't mind, but can I recommend:

u/crocket_ · 3 pointsr/microphones

There are a few possibilities.

  1. Your microphone is faulty and should be replaced
  2. The microphone volume in your operating system is low
  3. Your computer's hardware or software is faulty.
  4. The low volume is an inherent problem in your microphone. Given that it costs 13USD on amazon, I surmise this could be a real possibility. Look for bad reviews on SF-920.

    If you will speak into your microphone and plan to use it for a long time, I recommend that you buy a pop filter, too.

    If you are willing to spend more money, there are USB desktop microphones for which customized pop filters are available.

  5. Blue microphone sells blue yeti(116~130USD) and a pop filter whose design is customized for blue yeti(50USD).
  6. Cyber Acoustics sells CVL-2008(100USD) which contains a removable pop filter.

    blue yeti and its metal pop filter are pretty durable, but they are more expensive than CVL-2008 which comes with a less durable customized nylon pop filter that is not sold separately from CVL-2008. However, if you didn't abuse a pop filter and washed it from time to time, even a nylon pop filter could last a decade or two.
u/x0x_CAMARO_x0x · 3 pointsr/xboxone

Those are called USB ports, not HDMI ports.

And yes, you can use a USB 3.0 HUB to add more USB slots to the console.

Something like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Anker-4-Port-Macbook-Surface-Notebook/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1519339748&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=USB+hub&psc=1) should work.

u/Metaldrake · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Firstly if you like black switches, I'd highly recommend getting Gateron Blacks. They're far smoother than Cherry.

I'd suggest picking up a VA87MR when it goes on Massdrop again, fits your requirements of floating keys, minimal branding, detachable cable, backlighting, and has Gateron Black as an option, as well as costing ~$130ish. Only thing it doesn't have is a steel finish which I don't think you'll be able to find on most boards. There's also a aluminium case available to purchase separately for $120 or so.

As for the numpad, the cheapest option would be to get a Jelly Comb numpad though it has some nonstandard key sizes (also not available in blacks). There's also the FC210TP.

u/clickhappier · 3 pointsr/mturk

USB number pads are great. (Nothing like a "jumbo tv remote", wtf I can't even.) I use and recommend https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Numeric-Keypad-Jelly-Comb/dp/B01E8U8HKW/

u/kschang · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards
u/jhaun · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Probably Otemu blues. That same keypad is sold under a few names. This version on amazon says it's Otemu blue in the reviews.

u/Caloricfoil98 · 3 pointsr/NoStupidQuestions

What about this 200gb microSD card?

u/Tridon64 · 3 pointsr/AmiiboCanada

Amazon Canada has SanDisk Micro SD on sale that look pretty decent price wise. Are these a good value?

SanDisk Ultra 128GB microSDXC UHS-I

SanDisk Ultra 200GB microSDXC UHS-I

u/trinious2511 · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

It’s only less than $2 cheaper than Amazon Link

u/312c · 3 pointsr/DataHoarder

A 200GB mSD card is $25 right now: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JY5T7T/

u/Rox598 · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Would this SD card be good for the switch? SanDisk Ultra microSDXC Memory Card + SD Adapter with A1 App Performance up to 100MB/s, Class 10, U1 - 200GB https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B073JY5T7T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QGqwCbY2VKKET

u/Warskull · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

You are probably better off going with the 200 GB or 256 GB version.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JY5T7T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HO7PBbSHCEF3T?th=1

Typically the biggest SD card is not a great deal.

u/ubergeek77 · 3 pointsr/VitaPiracy

I already have a 128GB Class U-3 Samsung card, and I'm perfectly happy with it. But, if I were to buy a bigger one, I'd get this one, no question:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JY5T7T/

For a class U-1 microSD card, I'd say ~$80 is a very reasonable price. You probably won't notice the difference between Class U-1 and Class U-3 speeds, but I would highly recommend only getting a card that's class 10 or higher. If you get anything slower, especially class 2 or 4, you'll likely notice long load times in some games. That can get annoying pretty fast. Plus, when you're transferring games from your computer, especially en masse, you will definitely care about speeds more than you would while playing.

Oh, and about other brands, or getting something cheap from AliExpress, I would highly recommend that you don't do that. I've only had to make that mistake a few times before ever doing it again. For some reason, knock off cards are a gamble when it comes to quality, and I always end up with the junk ones :/

Happy hoarding!

u/poofyhairguy · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I had the 128GB version of your card and I still noticed significant loading speed ups in Doom when I moved to this card.

u/TemptedTemplar · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Check out Amazon, the 200gb cards are down to an all time low of $56!

That's only $15 more than the normal price of a 128gb card.

u/quanzi1507 · 3 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

If you don't need the extra 50-ish GB, the new 200GB Sandisk Ultra A1 is available for $99.45 on Amazon.ca (make sure to pick the one shipped and sold by Amazon).

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/offer-listing/B073JY5T7T/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new

u/theorhettical · 3 pointsr/EDC

You have a power bank, why not just get a small usb fan. There are hundreds of models on amazon that are small and either run off any usb port or are rechargeable.

Like this: usb flexible fan

Or even this fancy neck one: fancy neck fan

u/madrascafe · 3 pointsr/PFSENSE

in case you are looking for a fan, try this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003XN24GY/ref=cm_cd_asin_lnk ;-)

u/estydees · 3 pointsr/Surface

Hello,

I have a surface S3 with I7 for over a year now and I love it. Most of your bugs I've experienced at some point or other. Windows 10 originally had a pretty rough start on minor bugs but Microsoft has started releasing patches at a faster rate which helped a lot of these.

  1. Keep updating windows.. This use to be a common problem for more then just surface, (my gf has a lenovo laptop with touch and it would break there too) but it went away sometime ago. (Use to be a weekly problem but I haven't experienced it in a few months)

  2. I had to disable windows defender for similar issues. Not sure if updating or what helped but ya the overheating is a real issue. I bought a usb small fan on amazon for about $7 to plug into my computer to blow air on the top right corner of the computer. This helps a lot with overheating, (especially when gaming). For the process being stuck, it sounds like a bug =/. I use to see this issue but it went away. For me it was this "app module installer". Very annoying but I haven't had an issue like this in months.

    https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-USB-Powered-Portable-Solution-Gooseneck/dp/B003XN24GY

  3. Sorry, haven't hit this.

  4. Try letting update run for a long period of time. I had the same problem and learned that the % isn't accurate. If you don't have the windows anniversary version it might be downloading a very large update and could be stuck there for a long time.

    I donno if I was very helpful but try to plug into a solid internet and download all the updates, the Surface has come a long way in terms of reliability. Microsoft redesigned a lot of code with windows 8+ and it came at a cost.
u/Melbuf · 3 pointsr/pihole

if thats too noisy these things work fine and are pretty close to silent

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XN24GY

i have one running on mine

additionally you can put one of these on the CPU

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZC043CE

u/FuzzyRocket · 3 pointsr/cosplay

No problem glad to talk about it, and answer any questions.

This costume has a lot of room in the inside so I went with this larger USB fan and a small USB cord to connect it to a USB power pack that runs on 4 AA batteries. I wanted to keep the power supply separate from the video, incase issues arise with one or the other.

Edit: Guess I should add that the fans are always on once plugged in, this is done as part of getting suited up. Thought about a switch, but because this suit will always need a handler, we always had spare batteries.

The camera/LCD are on a switch that draw power from 8xAAs. The eyes use red LEDs with a single white led in the center, they also draw power from the same 8 battery pack but have a separate switch. This worked out well during rest periods and we were suiting back up. I could just tell the crowd to please hold on pictures till Al's soul is back in the armor (eyes light up)

u/TheManThatWasnt · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I bought this fan when I bought my switch. I plug it in every time I play Mario kart or Zelda. After a couple hours of four player MK8 it was still pretty cool to the touch. Peace of mind for me. Maybe it's bullshit but I'm happy to have it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003XN24GY/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/ePHDiSK · 3 pointsr/BitcoinMining

This is my previous step.

http://www.reddit.com/r/BitcoinMining/comments/1izsj8/133ghs_4x_usb_erupters_now_i_can_use_my_gaming/

Flexible USB Fan - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XN24GY

USB L Connector - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B5HS95A

7 Port Powered Rosewill USB Hub - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004BV7XQ8


The fan is quiet and does its job. 5 successful eruptors on one usb 2.0 hub.

u/spx404 · 3 pointsr/homelab

I normally get Cyberpower PFC1500s. I have been super happy with them.

They go on sale all the time on Newegg and Amazon. You get get them for less than $180 when they are on sale.

u/meisforeveralone · 3 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

What a coincidence. Was looking at this: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00429N19W

Then my power shut off lol.

u/Zarch91 · 3 pointsr/homelab

I have three of these : amazon!
and I am looking at getting one of these amazon2!

The room is on a 15 AMP circuit, and I am using about 2000 peak watts.

u/TofuTofu · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Actually the unit I bought is divided, half out the outputs are line active, half are wall power. I run the power to my rig via the line active socket.

I live in a region where the power dips below 100 volts regularly, so believe me, I pay attention to these things.

u/mayhempk1 · 3 pointsr/synology

I imagine something like this would last a few hours if your actual load is 28W.

u/wisconsin_born · 3 pointsr/homelab

Does your desktop have an efficient power supply? Most of the efficient desktop PSUs employ active PFC. If yours does, you will want a UPS that provides pure sine wave power in case of an outage.

The APC UPSs on sale do stepped sine wave approximation. It might work for efficient PSUs, I don't know. I do know that CyberPower has pure sine wave PSUs that eliminate the question, albeit at a higher price. For example: https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W

u/straighttoplaid · 3 pointsr/buildapc

If money isn't an object get a UPS with two features. First, it should be line interactive which allows it to filter minor fluctuations in power quality. This would be below the level of a surge that most surge protectors would catch. Second, get a PFC compatible one (sometimes called pure sine wave or other variants). Some power supplies are picky and don't like the "simulated sine wave" seen on many cheaper UPS. Your computer might work with a non-PFC compatible one, might not. You'd only know by trying it out, I chose just not to bother with it and got the PFC compatible one.

My experience has been with Cyberpower PFC units which haven't given me any problems.

u/rtgibbons · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

Might want to check to make sure it's really the same model. This one is a Pure Sine Wave, not simulated, the equivalent VA at Costco is a 1400va/900w for $180

On amazon this equivalent model is selling for 179.99

If you are patient, Amazon has had the 1400va/900w on sale for $140.

Either way, this is still a good deal for a great UPS.

u/Fritterbob · 3 pointsr/guns

I bought this UPS for my computer, I think it's a good idea to have one. It's actually on sale for a couple more hours for a really good price.

u/Artesian · 3 pointsr/buildapc

What are you going to be using this mouse/keyboard for?

  • In all seriousness, a mouse is about left/right click, back/forward buttons (on mid-high end mice), and the scroll wheel. You're also looking at wireless vs. wired capability. Do you need to work far away from your computer at any time? (Wireless) Do you depend on zero latency for clicks? (Wired or very high end wireless) [Those are just a few examples]

  • A keyboard's main concerns are sheer number of buttons, mechanical/non-mechanical, wireless/wired, and lighting/sensors etc. Once again the variable applications and settings for these devices will all depend on where and how you want to use it!

    While you're at it... grab a good mouse pad, cloth-woven with strong edges and gripping rubber on the bottom.


    ___

    Gamers usually opt for a nice mechanical keyboard (sometimes backlit for nighttime gaming sessions). On the other hand, for an HTPC you might like back-lighting and wireless capabilities. Or for normal use... simple, wired efficiency. You can even get solar-powered keyboards now to be more environmentally friendly!

    As for mice... the choices are wide open. Getting a 'gaming' mouse is NEVER a bad decision as they are usually manufactured with a higher degree of quality assurance and wonderful ergonomics. Personal tangent: An expensive (but entirely worthwhile) gaming mouse cured my tendonitis.


    A stellar Logitech mouse. (G400)

    I used one of those for many years before switching over to my current Razer Mamba. Razer mice are very expensive and usually come with a host of fancy lights and extra buttons. It really depends on what you need the mouse for, so I won't clutter your screen with links until we know more!
u/Lobotomist · 3 pointsr/Games

Logitech G400 , has all you need from a gaming mouse.
You really dont need more , unless you are WOW hardcore player or FPS expert player.

http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Optical-Gaming-High-Precision-910-002277/dp/B0055QZ216/ref=pd_cp_e_1

u/Nikoras · 3 pointsr/starcraft

Logitech G-400

Razer Deathadder

Steelseries Sensei

All of these are excellent mice, which one you want really comes down to personal preference. I like the deathadder, but I know other people who are more comfortable with the logitech design.

You also might want to take into consider a nice mouse surface if you don't already have one. I can tell you that the steelseries 9HD is pretty awesome if you're into hard pads.

u/DyceFreak · 3 pointsr/macgaming

Aparently the price is outrageous now.

Completely and utterly outrageous, might as well pick up a G9x at that price point. I was able to snag my G400 at $25 on sale from amazon a few months back. It is a wonderful mouse for an optical but I wouldn't pay more than $35 for it.

u/SonicFlash01 · 3 pointsr/battlestations

They replaced it with the G400

u/PornoPichu · 3 pointsr/buildapc

What sort of accessories are you looking for? Lik ke5pay said, you most likely won't need a sound card. Only invest in a sound card if you are a serious audiophile (And owning Beats headphones doesn't make one an audiophile ><; )

Assuming you game, maybe get a nice mouse?

u/SikhTheShocker · 3 pointsr/gaming
u/IamMatrix · 3 pointsr/buildapc

This has to be the best bang for the buck. Has a very solid construction and surround sound.

u/Manaaniwanderer · 3 pointsr/pcgaming

Been using the Plantronics 780 for about six months now, no complaints. 5.1 sound. Comfortable, sounds great.

u/Olive_Jane · 3 pointsr/makemychoice

Hey, I think this $40 deal is a lot more common than you realize.


http://camelcamelcamel.com/Plantronics-GameCom-780-Surround-Headset/product/B00B1KJK22

Its been at/near $50 on amazon a handful of times before... so do not let pressure on this shell shocker Newegg deal expiring pressure you into purchasing.

For checking amazon price history... http://camelcamelcamel.com

u/Takyon_dg · 3 pointsr/WindowsMR

Gonna drop this in here in case someone wants to scour the posts to build a meta-thread on cables and accessories down the road.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01MQD4VYI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 <- This works converting DP -> HDMI for the Lenovo Explorer and the Samsung Odyssey

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01FSDIGYK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 <- this one did not. it wouldn't power up the display.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01LYLO6KS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 <- this HDMI coupler worked with a 6ft HDMI cable UNPOWERED, plugged into the HDMI on the video card (for the Explorer and Odyssey), however when used in conjunction with the working DP->HDMI adapter above, it needed to be powered (through the usb plug on the side) to be able to power up the HMD. I haven't tried longer runs of HDMI with it yet.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 <- This 3m/10ft USB 3.0 Extension cable worked with the Explorer and Odyssey.

u/danbert88 · 3 pointsr/Vive

HDMI + USB + Power + Cable Sleeve = Good extension cable.

I use this setup on the HMD end of the Linkbox with no issues.

u/wolffan69 · 3 pointsr/oculus

I extend my Rift S with 10 ft cables and I've had no issues.

Displayport:

Cable Matters DisplayPort to DisplayPort Extension Cable (DP to DP Extension Cable) 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L1K1KDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.rJgDbQMDYQVF

USB:

Cable Matters USB to USB Extension Cable (USB 3.0 Extension Cable/USB 3 Extension Cable) in Black 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pLNgDb3ZQ8QMR

u/bushmaster2000 · 3 pointsr/oculus

Try these:



Displayport:

Cable Matters DisplayPort to DisplayPort Extension Cable (DP to DP Extension Cable) 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L1K1KDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.rJgDbQMDYQVF

USB:

Cable Matters USB to USB Extension Cable (USB 3.0 Extension Cable/USB 3 Extension Cable) in Black 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pLNgDb3ZQ8QMR

u/defubar · 3 pointsr/WindowsMR

I use these cables:

Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U

AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI Extension Cable - 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H91KE

And these clips on my basement drop ceiling:
Outus 100 Pack Ceiling Hook for Drop Ceilings https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J7HVOQU

Works well for me so far. Haven't been wrenching on my cables/video card like I was (on occasion) before purchasing them.

u/Choncee · 3 pointsr/oculus

I bought a DisplayPort/HDMI adapter for my monitor, otherwise I just got a black screen on my Rift with an hourglass icon. I also bought two extension cables:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Klownicle · 3 pointsr/oculus

I purchased;

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009D378SW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(various dk2 users recommended passive (copper to copper) couplers for use with HDMI connectors, this is what I found on Amazon)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0194F1MY4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(this was recommended for users that don't have two hdmi outputs and use a TV for a monitor, etc. The 970gtx typically has a DisplayPort out. This adapter I believe can be used for either the rift or your external tv etc. My importance is for 4k Video with Audio. This is the go to cable. The 4k capability here is very important with the Rift. This cable is verified to work.)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(these or AmazonBasics seem to be the goto USB 3.0 extension cables, DK2/CV1 owners recommend AmazonBasics, but they are all sold out. These are the next best bet. I plan on using this to go through my wall to my Powered USB 3.0 Hubs).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0192LPK5M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(I bought this as its a reliable brand, 4 port usb POWERED hub, you are going to get better results with USB 3.0 when its powered and extended due to obvious cable length limitations.)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019OSCJ7K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(As the DisplayPort to HDMI was by Club3D, this cable is highly rated and reliably 4k Capable, I figured it was a no brainer).

Hope that helps, I feel confident, through my research I should be able to accomplish what I want. I know USB limits you to 15ft, but in my experience when you use powered USB hubs, you can get beyond that. And worst case scenario, you can convert the USB to Cat5 and go much further distances.

I figured, if something doesn't work, I always have use for adapters and hubs. Again my goal was just to get through my wall and have the PC in another room (less than 20foot overall, but I heard the Rift cables are 9ft?) So the Rift setup would end up being 9ft or so in my living room I think.

u/Chemosh013 · 3 pointsr/oculus

Here is another picture of the sensor itself:

http://imgur.com/VJgtyLj

Here is the gear that I used:

Light Stands (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNZJLG4/) - These things are great. Very easy to setup, very small base (can be expanded if you want, but the sensors are light and they seem very stable).

Mini Ball Heads (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M07M9D4) - Make for easier adjustment and greater tilting.

USB Cables (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ - 10 ft, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ - 6 ft) - Passive were fine for the two sensors at that length.

Very happy to get these off my desk and higher up. I need to get my third sensor setup as well because the angle that they are pointing makes it tough to detect at the back of my play space (it's about 6 x 9).

Overall very happy with the setup and all the advice I received from this board. This is a really great community.

u/Heaney555 · 3 pointsr/oculus

Just get a DVI to HDMI cable for your GPU to monitor...

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Input-Output-Adapter-Cable/dp/B014I8UQJY/

u/EmLeingod · 3 pointsr/howto

This is what you want to get audio to your speakers, it's called a DAC, (better, more expensive options are available, but that's the best you're gonna do for under $100 lol) and this is the cable to connect the two devices (you'll also need RCA cables)

This will get you video to your projector.

Unfortunately since it looks like you're using powered monitors, you'll need a pre-amp to control the volume.

You may be thinking wow that's a lot of stuff, and it doesn't even come with a remote! And you're absolutely right. Unfortunately, the only thing that does all that is a full blow receiver, which get quite expensive and are usually aimed at surround sound systems. Most receivers don't like powered monitors though, so you'd have to get a very special one.

This is where you realize that passive speakers are what you really want, and you blow hundreds of dollars on speakers and equipment and you become an audiophile. Luckily there's a bunch of guides to get you started over on /r/zeos. But the stuff I listed earlier should let you jerry-rig a working set up while you save up :P

u/ExplodingFist · 3 pointsr/OculusQuest

My existing CV1 setup already had wiring for 4 sensors, 3 of which required active extension, so I tapped into the far one that went across the ceiling with the 10 foot USB-C Anker 3.0 cable recommended by Oculus, and it works flawlessly.

The visuals were excellent. For me this looks better than the Rift S (personally, since I have an IPD of 59, along with the beautiful OLED displays this has). I didn't notice any artifacts or compression when playing, but I do think this thing is sensitive to having a very good USB port, so results may vary.

The lower refresh rate is definitely noticeable compared to the CV1 and I played worse than usual in beat saber (on expert). The tracking is also obviously more limited than the CV1 with more than 2 sensors (which this would beat), especially in games like Echo VR, but I also had some issues with the S in that game when I tried it. This is comparing to a perfect 4 sensor setup with a $120 quad channel USB card, so it's not exactly fair.

You can't beat the simplicity this provides for just getting into PCVR.

Here is the link the the extension cable. It's cheaper than it was back when I got them for my sensors: https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Extension-Extender-Booster-Compatible/dp/B0179MXKU8

u/TorqTB · 3 pointsr/ValveIndex
u/OXIOXIOXI · 3 pointsr/OculusQuest

MRTV got this 5M active extender working https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8

He also plugged a 1M C to A cable in to connect it to the headset, total of 19 bucks. Does anyone know a longer cable I can plug into this extender? Like 2 or 3M? Just want to know before I order.

u/SpaceMonkeyNation · 3 pointsr/OculusQuest

Lone Echo
Brass Tactics
Chronos
Star Trek Bridge Crew
Elite Dangerous
Project Cars 2
Hellblade: Senua's Sacrifice VR Edition
Alien Isolation (Mother Mod)


Also, according to the pinned thread, this extension cable works:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I haven't tried it yet since I just ordered it, but others have verified that it works.

u/subcat · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

A "mostkey" with clears doesn't exist, unless you go down the route of a custom (e.g. b.mini EX).

here is a cheap, basic numpad

u/sashascurtu · 2 pointsr/AMDHelp

One solution would be to use a dvi-hdmi cable, which are really cheap (7$ for a long and high-quality cable like this and use the dvi port, see if that works. If it does, just stick to that, it's virtually the same as hdmi except no monitor audio. It might just be the hdmi port, since b350 motherboards are all crap and have rushed designs, you might expect something to not function properly.

u/thisishowiinternet · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You could do this too

I've got a 27 inch on dvi + a 50 inch tv on hdmi.

There are also Displayport to Hdmi converters that work too for what you're trying to do.

u/MahnAtWork · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Gotcha, you probably just need a DVI cable like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IHMFIBY/


However if you're GPU does not support the DVI required by your monitor you may need a dvi to hdmi adapter like so: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8UQJY/

u/neopran · 2 pointsr/CanadianHardwareSwap

You could get a cable like this one or an adapter from amazon for your monitor.

u/railerswim · 2 pointsr/xboxone

DVI is not Display Port at all lol. I mean it's a video/audio output interface haha.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Input-Output-Adapter-Cable/dp/B014I8UQJY/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505175324&sr=1-3&keywords=dvi+to+hdmi


There's a cable for ya, do make sure that it matches up with the holes on the DVI port on your monitor though!

u/Lorben · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

This is possible without a capture card, assuming you're not using a laptop. If you're trying to use a laptop's screen it's capture card or nothing.

So assuming you're using a regular PC and monitor it's a few fairly inexpensive adapters and\or cables.

To get video to you're monitor you've got a couple options and it depends on what inputs are available. If your monitor has a second HDMI port you should use that, but most don't. If it has a DVI port use a HDMI to DVI cable to plug it into your monitor. If neither of those are available you can use an HDMI splitter to have two devices plugged into the same HDMI port on your monitor.

You can run the Switch's sound through the computer and have it act as a mixer so that both the Switch sound and your computer's sound comes out of the same headphones\speakers. Saves you from needing to plug and unplug speakers or headsets all the time. You'll also be able to use Discord\Steam\whatever voice chat while playing Switch games if you're using a headset.

Note: This is assuming you're running Windows 10.

To do this you'll need an aux cable.

What you would need to do is find the Line-In jack on the back of your computer. Plug one end of the aux cable into the headphone jack on the Switch and the other into the Line-In on your computer

On your computer go to Sound Settings in the Control Panel. You can also use the search bar on your computer and search for "Sound".

In the main Sound settings there's a section for Input where you can choose your Input Device. Choose Line-In there.

Then click on Device Properties right below Input Device

Then click Additional Device Properties on the right

Now we're in Line-In properties, go to the Listen tab and check 'listen to this device'. Click on the drop down labeled "Playback through this device" and set it to your headphones\speakers.

You may also want to go to the Levels tab and turn up the volume coming from line in.

Press "OK" to close Line-In properties. You should now be hearing both your computer and the Switch audio through the same pair of headphones\speakers.

u/Defiant001 · 2 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

You can use an HDMI/Displayport to DVI cable if needed.

DP to DVI

HDMI to DVI

u/GreyReaper · 2 pointsr/buildapc

They are! That monitor has a dvi-d input so in a modern computer something like this dvi to hdmi cord would be needed if no dvi ports exist on the graphics output.

u/Scops · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Great! Okay, so according to a quick Google search, you can run both the DVI and VGA ports concurrently.

You CAN go from DVI-D, which is what you have next to the VGA port, straight to HDMI, with a cable like this.

Now, the only thing to worry about is that DVI cannot carry audio, whereas HDMI can do both audio and video. There are some TVs out there with a PC input that allows you to have audio come over a separate cable (3.5mm stereo mini, optical, RCA, etc).

If your TV does not have that, you might be better off using your PC speakers, or looking at something like this. (I have never used that part and can't vouch for its efficacy, although Monoprice is perfectly fine as a parts seller) If you can just use your PC speakers (as it sounds like the displays won't be far apart), then that would certainly be the easiest solution.

u/Newli327 · 2 pointsr/gaming

Some monitors have HDMI ports on the back. If yours does, I think you know what to do from there. If not, your monitor should have a DVI port on the back. I have a simple adapter that I bought on amazon that you can buy for about $5.00-$7.00.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8UQJY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4iQyybG3GQ7CK

u/macetothaface · 2 pointsr/buildapc

What ports do your monitors use? You can get cheap cables like this:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Input-Output-Adapter-Cable/dp/B014I8UQJY/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505922534&sr=1-3&keywords=hdmi+to+dvi

Plug the HDMI in the GPU, and the DVI in your monitor if your monitor only supports DVI (or vice versa)

u/machinehead933 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Yes, you can just get an HDMI to DVI cable or adapter:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Input-Output-Adapter-Cable/dp/B014I8UQJY/

u/sotodefonk · 2 pointsr/pcgamingtechsupport

You need an adapter or a cable. I suppose your card is like this, there is a direct HDMI output, use that to connect one of your monitors, and then buy and adapter or cable from DVI to HDMI, or DisplayPort to HDMI cable or adapter, whatever is cheaper or in your store.

u/badillin · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

There are 5 different DVI connectors.

The rx460 uses DVI-D

So to connect to rhe monitor you want youll need an adaptor

hdmi to vga
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Active-Adapter-Micro-USB/dp/B00879DM56

DP to VGA
https://www.amazon.com/VicTsing-Gold-plated-DisplayPort-Adapter-Macbook/dp/B00K49SZTK/

display port to dvi-d
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Gold-Plated-DisplayPort/dp/B004C9M7UG/

Or

hdmi to dvi-d
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-HDMI-DVI-Adapter-Cable/dp/B014I8UQJY/


Any of these would work.

u/act-of-reason · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Yes, I used to use one of these to output from PS3 (HDMI) to computer monitor (DVI).

u/Talwyn_Wize · 2 pointsr/oculus

There are some things you could try out, if you haven't already.

  1. My most important point, choosing a "High/Ultimate Performance" or equivalent setting (use your best option) on your battery power. I shouldn't need to say this, but you get better performance with the powercable attached.

  2. Remember to deactivate USB selective suspend and do the same in your Device Manager, so that your computer doesn't hibernate or adjust USB power-settings. I know the OculusTrayTool does the same/similar, if you use it, but I've not been lucky enough to have that work when I need it to.

  3. Also, make sure you've removed as many USB-devices from your computer as possible. For example; external harddrives, mouse, keyboard, headset (if USB), even memory sticks, so that they don't draw power away from your USB channels. You might actually want some of these connected while you play, but try without first, to figure out whether or not it works. Your ports share channels, you see, so they are affected by each other.

  4. You probably don't want to go looking for further extension cables at this point, but I use these ones, and they work very well.

  5. Remember to update your USB drivers. Feel free to check your Asus website first, but Windows 10 might have new and better drivers, or the manufacturer of the chip could have even newer. There are ways to discover the manufacturer's name and model of your USB device in Device Manager, if you know where to look. Google it. ;) Mind you, keep your Asus drivers ready as backup, because the computer might not "officially" support it, though it's easy to roll back drivers. After driver-update, you might have to repeat option [2].

  6. If you have software that controls USB-ports to an extent (like apps looking for USB devices), disabling them could help, but you need to restart and ensure they don't start automatically again. There're some split opinions out there on whether or not it helps, but I'm including it just in case.

    I advise you to restart your computer after you've done your adjustments and connected your Rift, so that the computer will prioritize the USB power-draw correctly on startup.

    Chances are you've tried these options already, but if not, give them a try. Unfortunately, I can't think of any other alternatives. The VR-tests I can find of your laptop seem to have been done without extensions. Feel free to contact Asus support - they might have some recommendations, as I doubt you'll be the first with the issue.

    Good luck!




u/Honda_TypeR · 2 pointsr/oculus

So I had this issue with rift on and off for a year

My end game solution, after wasting tons of money on failed solutions, was buying an 4 independent bus usb 3.0 pcie expansion board (plugged into pcie 16x slot)

I tried a cheap 1 usb bus cards with 4 USB ports and it just is too much strain for 1 bus with all these cameras plus everything else on my PC. Even with that extra bus on that expansion card it’s simply not enough.

what finally worked was the 4 independent 3.0 buses on that card.

I have 3 rift cameras and the headset plugged into the card each one with a dedicated usb bus and none of on my mobo

I’m on mobile at the moment but lemme try to find the link.. if I can’t it was from Startech

Here think this is it https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Express-SuperSpeed-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S

Make sure you select quad bus or you will be wasting your time.

The last part of this usb disconnect drama for me was a proper usb 3.0 repeater extension cable (on my 3rd and furtherest rear camera). I did a lot of buying and experimenting with these too but this one is the one that finally played nice with rift

https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Extension-Extender-Repeater-Booster/dp/B0179MXKU8/

After this combo I now finally have flawless no random disconnect usage of my rift

Took a damn year to sort all this out.

I hope it helps

u/DarKbaldness · 2 pointsr/oculus

Ah a good question. I was using the included extended (2.0) but switched to using 2x CableCreation USB 3 extension cables

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.IM6BbZDFMMWN


If there are any specific tests or benchmarks you’d like me to run I am open to help :)

u/I_wish_I_was_a_robot · 2 pointsr/oculus

No. This is what you need: CableCreation (Long 16FT) Super Speed Active USB 3.0 Extension Cable, USB 3.0 Extender USB Male to Female Repeater Cable with Signal Booster for Oculus Rift,Xbox,PS4 and More, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0eJWBb05A2Y2S

u/Spaceguy5 · 2 pointsr/hotas

Your mileage will vary based on your computer hardware but personally I'm using an unpowered cheapo hub that supports USB 2.0 from Wal-Mart
(which only has my Warthog throttle + stick + TRP pedals plugged in), and I'm using a long USB 3.0 extension that has a repeater (which was leftover from my Oculus setup. My flight sim setup is too far from my desktop to reach). It's plugged into a USB 3.0 port on my computer, as 3.0 supports a higher current draw. Have had zero issues so far, though I plan to upgrade to a cheapo 3.0 hub (only using the 2.0 temporarily as I had it laying around).

If you have an unpowered hub laying around, it's worth trying. But if you want a guarantee of no issues (especially if your computer power supply is on a tight margin), a powered hub may be the way to go.

If you're in no hurry and have stores nearby with good return policies, you could even buy a cheap unpowered and return it if it doesn't work.

u/sekazi · 2 pointsr/oculus

I am using these USB 3 Active Extension Cables. It gives you an extra 16 ft. I have my sensors mounted to the ceiling so I just run the cable across the ceiling using screw eyes and s-biners.

u/awalkingspastic · 2 pointsr/oculus

does anyone know if these would work as well for the sensor?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0179MXKU8

u/Godit82 · 2 pointsr/oculus

I had a similar problem with my rooms about 10' apart and had to move my PC to the VR space and running extensions back to my desk for my monitor and peripherals.

I got a powered USB hub mounted on my desk with a 16' active USB 3.0 extension plugged into the back of the PC down the hall. I wanted 3.0 because I am using that Ethernet port on the USB hub too. I also got a 15ft DVI extension for the monitor so I ended up with only have two cables to hide in the hallway. The cable clips aren't invisible but they are at least neat and clean. The 16' of cable for 10' of hallway was just enough length so make sure you get enough to make a few turns or go up and down walls.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IDI9V3W/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apip_EqmdpgNxHP8EJ

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apip_d3IqEJrUAvYdL

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003WGTL0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apip_e9KeYg4pNLDgb

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071Y1RGPP/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apip_uUBWLUVkBZQLL

u/sexysausage · 2 pointsr/oculus

Check this out: CableCreation Gold (Long 16FT) Super Speed USB 3.0 Active Extension ... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdo_A7SGzbTM1WHXB

It extends the sensor as USB 3.0 without issues.

u/probesys · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

The officially recommended one, plus this extension: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0179MXKU8/

u/tveith · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

Buy an active extender, then you'll have 22 feet!!

CableCreation Active USB Extension Cable (Long 16.4 FT), USB 3.0 Extender Male to Female Cord with Signal Booster Compatible with Oculus Rift, Xbox, PS4, USB Printer etc, Black https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_a8X3DbJGG24WF

u/DraygonZero · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

Maybe, but I refunded the UGreen and got the CableCreation extender instead. It works, but it doesn't have added power so it won't charge as well. Still works for me though!If the Ugreen doesn't work for others, try this one: https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Extension-Extender-Booster-Compatible/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=cablecreation&qid=1574475246&sr=8-13


Edit: Using it with the 10ft Anker Powerline USB3.0 cable recommended by Oculus, btw.

u/Slowpc · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

I got my cable in and grabbed one of my Cable Creations 3.0 5m cables out of the closet and it seems to be working fine. Got to soften up this anker cable and get some more velcro tiedowns but it worked great in some pavlov matches.

​

https://smile.amazon.com/CableCreation-Extension-Extender-Booster-Compatible/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3PS4KD79BRGYI&keywords=cable+creations+usb+3.0+extension&qid=1574390846&sprefix=cable+creations%2Caps%2C134&sr=8-3

u/Zundrel · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

If you intend to do that, you'd likely need an active USB extension cable such as https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0179MXKU8/.

u/Ajedi32 · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

If you want to go much longer than 3m you're probably gonna need an active extension cable. This 5m one works, according to tests by some other users: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0179MXKU8/

Then you can plug it into a shorter A-to-C cable for even more length.

u/br0squit0 · 2 pointsr/oculus

I am using a 16 ft. USB 3.0 active adapter and also have a 6 ft. USB 3.0 (non active) plugged into the same sensor (totaling in 22 ft.) no issues and shows up as USB 3.0 on Oculus Home.


These are the ones I used:

u/Psycold · 2 pointsr/ValveIndex

I've used both of these cables to successfully extend my Vive and Index

​

Display port extension:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L1K1KDE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

USB 3.0 extension:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Dentifrice · 2 pointsr/oculus

be sure to use an ACTIVE usb extension.

Bought this, works like a charm :
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/alether2 · 2 pointsr/WindowsMR

Exactly. I'm using this 16ft cable along with an additional 1.5ft male to male cable (in order to have a male connecter on end to plug into vive link box):

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My setup is like this
PC > 1.5ft USB 3.0 male to male > 16ft active USB 3.0 Extension > Vive Link Box > Odyssey+

Works flawlessly. No issues whatsoever. Only thing is you have to power cycle the link box after you plug the Odyssey in otherwise it won't be detected.

u/FearTheTaswegian · 2 pointsr/oculus

No problem. Best stick to the cables & cards etc in the FAQ here if you can, especially if using long cables at the usb max lengths. FWIW my more distant two sensors are fed by a single active 5m USB3 cable

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Into a powered USB3 hub

https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00ZQFYWJY/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

& are the only thing on that particular usb controller.

u/LoneKrafayis · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I would get a USB wireless dongle, USB extension, and a directional antenna. To make this work, the dongle must have a removable antenna. If shipping is not an expense, I would buy step-by-step, starting with the dongle, then extension, finally the antenna (and antenna mounting solution).

I have no personal experience with this equipment. It was chosen because of features (like replaceable antennas) and Amazon reviews.

Alfa AWUS036AC Long-Range Dual-Band AC1200 Wireless USB Adapter With 2x Dual-Band (2.4GHz / 5GHz) external antenna for Extreme Distance Connection - Up to 300 Mbps - USB 3.0 - AC1200 Wireless chip - USB desktop Dock Included

CableCreation Gold (Long 16FT) Super Speed USB 3.0 Active Extension Cable, USB 3.0 Extender USB A-Male to A-Female Cable, 5Meter/16ft, Black

Alfa APA-M25 dual band 2.4GHz/5GHz 10dBi high gain directional indoor panel antenna with RP-SMA connector (compare to Asus WL-ANT-157)

All together, this is 95 CAD, but I expect the first item will solve the problem. If you do get the high-gain antenna, try it as a replacement of each of the side antennas on the USB dongle. This is because one antenna might be more important to the device then the other.

u/inantbh · 2 pointsr/oculus

PSA: I was having issues with the sensor constantly disconnecting using the OP's active cable and Oculus' recommended Intateck card. Just purchased the CableCreation extension after reading this post and it seems to have solved my problem.

u/TayoEXE · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

Just a reminder, you need a VR-ready PC to play PC VR games, so it needs to be a powerful gaming PC.

And you don't have to cancel your Anker cable necessarily. There are extensions you can get that make up for the length until the official Link cable comes out. I've heard from several people this one works for example.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8

That one will add 16 extra feet for a total of 22 feet for yours. And it's quite cheap.

u/ZepharusCMG · 2 pointsr/oculus

I use my Rift about 10 ft from my PC so I purchased the recommended cable and PCIe card. Only needed if youre playing away from you main PC

THESE ARE PERFECT https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/wwm0nkey · 2 pointsr/halo
u/Tequila-M0ckingbird · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

Wanted to make a quick post - using the Anker recommended cable (3M).
I tried the AmazonBasics USB 3.0 Extension Cable along with Cable Matters USB to USB Extension Cable - Both 3M - neither worked.


Finally, I tried CableCreation Active USB Extension Cable (Long 16.4 FT) - THIS WORKS, and it's way longer than the others.

u/HumbertKing · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

I am using this one:

https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01FQ88CE6/

Also people are having luck with this:

https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/

This is my setup:

PC (Asus ROG STRIX Z390-I + EVGA RTX 2080 XC)

v

https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B01FQ88CE6/ (5m USB 3 active cable)

https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B07KBTH6TS/ (USB 3 Hub)

https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B07D7N96FL/ (3m USB-c 3.1 cable)

https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B078YRKTKM/ (USB-c 90 adapter)

v

Quest

u/NDubbaYa · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

Seems kinda janky. Some games run well and uh some really do not lol

Not faulting anything since well AMD isn't supported to begin with, and well it's a beta that JUST came out, but I'm hoping that it gets ironed out as the beta goes along. Really see the potential and it could be a great thing once it all gets sorted out.

Oh I should probably list specs? We're all probably running around trying to figure out exactly what cable to get so figured it'd help posting em.


GPU: PowerColor Red Dragon RX 5700

CPU: Ryzen 2600 OC'd to 4.1

Cable: JOTO USB Type C Cable Extra Long 10ft, USB-C 3.1 Type-C to USB 3.0 Type A Charging Data Cable [Heavy Duty Nylon Braided] for iPad Pro 12.9/11 Galaxy S10 S9 Note 10+ 10 9 Tab S4 Nintendo Switch (Black)

Extender (which is just for extra length both cables work): CableCreation Active USB Extension Cable (Long 16.4 FT), USB 3.0 Extender Male to Female Cord with Signal Booster Compatible with Oculus Rift, Xbox, PS4, USB Printer etc, Black

u/Kesnei · 2 pointsr/oculus

However, it will be VERY obvious to you when you need the third sensor.You'll find yourself frequently facing the direction without sensors and visual glitches everywhere, trying to turn around and deal with whatever in game objective you were dealing with previously.

If your not experiencing this then wait :)

As a List (That you didn't ask for) for what I bought for Roomscale:4 port /w controller USB 3.0 card (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XPUHO10)Additional Sensor (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0727WDPX6) - Note this includes an 2.0 USB extension cable, 2.0 can stretch farther without signal loss.

**Extra Equipment**10 Ft HDMI extension (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE) - For the Oculus Headset16 Ft USB Active extension (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8) - For the Oculus headset

Hangers for the Oculus cable (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XY5WKXW) - this just gets the cables from under your feet, it is my favorite

u/slightplague · 2 pointsr/AverageBattlestations

Ask and ye shall receive, I remembered: Number Pad,Jelly Comb Mechanical Numeric Keypad USB Braid Cable Numpad 22-key Number Pad - Black (Blue switch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E8U8HKW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_I0XIAbXRM8RTR

u/CutthroatTeaser · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Is it this one: Jelly Comb ?

u/JonNickReddit · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Woah i did not look at the cost of this in CAD holy crap that is expensive ($300 bucks plus $24 in shipping). Very good review on your part though, kinda sucks about the rebinding configurator though.

Completely unrelated but i feel like you might think this is cool. Its Outemu Blue Numpad (Outemu are Cherry knockoff's, but there pretty decent), and for $20, has full metal construction, braided cable, and some cheap Blue's. You may have seen it before cause it was on the front page like 4 months ago. Thought you might find it interesting because we have pretty similar tastes in keyboards IMO (i have been eying the model M and zealios purple for a while :P)

u/egrodo · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards
u/LePornAddict · 2 pointsr/MouseReview

Plug both in. It wouldn't matter unless you move it. If you really want to switch one off for whatever reason, you can always get a usb hub with switches for this.

u/TenebrousP · 2 pointsr/Vive

Same issue. I picked up this small USB hub with power switches from Amazon to solve it:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Bradleyw801 · 2 pointsr/ShieldAndroidTV

Instead of that, I would go with a hub like this. A hub should work fine on the Shield and as long as it's usb 3.0 there should be no discernable difference. A hub is basically just an extension cord. It's not doing any data transfer itself.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1522811031&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=usb+hub&dpPl=1&dpID=41FAbxXGUBL&ref=plSrch

u/scotchy180 · 2 pointsr/Vive

In case this helps...

I use this for my dongles. I would guess you could run this through a wall with a usb extension cable. The only problem I could see you running into might be power degradation if the cable is really long. I guess you'd need to try it to know for sure.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/NHGuy · 2 pointsr/Harley

This happens to me on a regular basis. And it's a known problem, as someone else has said.

To fix the issue of the moment, you have a few options, all sort of boil down to the same thing:

  1. Shut off the bike and restart
  2. Pull the USB and reinsert
  3. Use a small USB hub and disconnect the USB and reconnect via switch on the hub.

    For a hub, I use this one so all I have to do is flip open my dash compartment and toggle the switch for the USB to disconnect/reconnect it. I also have a couple other drives with a ton of a variety of music on them.

    Also - with the hub you need to use a low profile USB drive. I use SanDisk Cruzer Fit. Currently 32GB for $12, $18 for 64GB
u/eliminate1337 · 2 pointsr/answers

That's meant to be used as an internal hard drive. You can use it as an external drive, but you'll need an enclosure like this.

This won't make a very good external hard drive. USB ports can't provide enough power, so you'll have to plug the enclosure into an outlet.

u/Hiawoofa · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Lay-Flat-Docking-EC-DFLT/dp/B00LS5NFQ2/ref=lp_160354011_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1465751078&sr=1-3


Cheap, and if you have prime, you can get it Tuesday. :)


Edit: if you live near Louisville, you're welcome to use my pc for free.

u/Letcherouss · 2 pointsr/preppers

I probably could have written that better instead of making assumptions. If I were to be in the mood for entertainment and a kindle was my only source I'd more than likely have porn for that, outside of entertainment of course I'd have books for when I needed them. I don't read books for entertainment now, if I'm reading a book it's going to be I.T based.

You don't need a few laptops just get an external enclosure like the one I have and stockpile hard drives and write on the drive label what's on it. Or you can setup a NAS or just build a computer with a case that could hold 16 hard drives and load them up.

u/Dystopiq · 2 pointsr/techsupport

I don't think USB can power that enough to run it. Buy a Dock that uses an external power supply. Something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Lay-Flat-Docking-EC-DFLT/dp/B00LS5NFQ2

u/brp · 2 pointsr/synology

As others have said, RAID is not a backup.

I'd do the following:

  1. Purchase a 4 Bay Synology Unit like the DS416.
  2. Purchase another used 1TB HDD if you can find one on Craigslist or Ebay for cheap.
  3. Purchase a >= 3TB HDD and USB 3.0 to SATA dock like this one.
  4. Backup all of your files from your 1 TB HDDs to the new >= 3TB HDD using the enclosure connected to your PC.
  5. Setup your Synology NAS with 4x 1TB HDDs in a RAID-5, giving you 3TB of useable space.
  6. Copy all your files over from the HDD backup to the Synology in the appropriate folders.
  7. Use the 3TB HDD and Enclosure to connect directly to your Synology and use that to backup your files to from the Synology using their Hyper Backup tool.
  8. In the future when you want to expand your Synology, you can replace the 1TB drives with 3TB or larger drives one by one and then expand the entire volume once they are all swapped. This can be done in-service w/o data loss or downtime.
u/Silver_Foxxx · 2 pointsr/computers

Something like this. It's a 3.5 inch SATA drive if you were wondering.

u/MethodicalJosh · 2 pointsr/DataHoarder
u/Remo_253 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Windows won't install to an external drive. Download Hirens, linked to above. It has a "Mini XP" option so you have a Windows like interface. It also has a number of tools for diagnosing issues. Some are a bit long in the tooth since it hasn't been updated in a long time but things like Chkdsk don't need updates.

It sounds to me like you have one of three issues:

  • HDD dying
  • Bad cable connecting the HDD
  • Bad SATA port

    I'd put my money on the first one. You can use a Sata to USB adapter or docking station to plug the drive into another machine and see if it works there. If not then you know for sure it's the drive. Those adapters are handy things to have, turns any drive into an external.
u/sheepdog69 · 2 pointsr/mac

There are lots of external HD enclosures. At USB 3 speeds, she shouldn't notice any speed issues. Here's an example.

But, wouldn't it be better to just copy the files to the new mbair for her?

u/CrookedStubby15 · 2 pointsr/techsupport
u/ADubs62 · 2 pointsr/Veterans

Alternatively you can just get a HDD dock. This will be a bit easier to do than a full enclosure for something that will likely only be used once to pull data.

Also, look at setting up Google Drive or something similar to back this stuff up going foward so you don't run into a similar situation in the future!

(If you have any questions please ask!)

u/echelon3 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

I would pay attention to what you buy however. A lot of the newer SATA-USB adapters are made for USB 3.0 and are listed as being "optimized" for SSD drives and only have a single USB 3.0 connector. What this means is that if you don't plug the adapter into a USB 3.0 port (usually blue, but they are sometimes not marked as such) then your hard drive won't be able to draw the necessary power to spin the drives and read/write data.

The older models (like the one I use) got around this by using two USB 2.0 cables, one for power and date and one for strictly power. If you're not sure if you have USB 3.0 capable ports, I would make sure you look for something like this that has a separate power supply, just to be safe. If you think plugging in SATA drives is something you'll be doing fairly often, I would consider even splurging for a docking station (similar to this one) to make life easier for you.

u/SpunkBunk · 2 pointsr/wiiu

I would actually recommend against using something specifically USB 3.0 ... I ordered myself a docking station for my SSD (this http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Lay-Flat-Docking-EC-DFLT/dp/B00LS5NFQ2) and it came with a 3.0 cable. I was having myself a frustrating time trying to get the Wii U to read it. Finally I remembered I had a 2.0 cable around from an old printer. Absolutely no issues since then. The Wii U seems really adamant against using 3.0.

u/FlatTextOnAScreen · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Connect the adapter you linked to the HDD here. But you're better off getting an enclosure like this one. Some drives will require more power to properly turn on.

u/Shadow703793 · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

I just got three of these delivered today. Two are on USB 3.0 enclosures for use as backup drives and one is spare.

Here's the benchmarks of one of the backup drives via USB 3.0:

AS SSD Copy Bench: http://i.imgur.com/yfPhUWY.png

AS SSD sequential and access time: http://i.imgur.com/8ohnYPX.png

Obviously not anywhere close SSD, but hey, it's great for mass storage and also keep in mind this is via USB 3.0 connection.

This is the enclosure I'm using: http://smile.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Lay-Flat-Docking-EC-DFLT/dp/B00LS5NFQ2/

u/RomanDoctor · 2 pointsr/htpc

Sorry, I should have clarified - I was thinking a software RAID, or is that frowned upon? Right now I'm manually backing up to internal drives in a docking station every couple months. So anything is a step up from that.

I've looked at pre-built and splitting up my NAS / HTPC but getting a Drobo 5N, $600, and then a decent HTPC build able to transcode multiple streams, at least another $400+. It could double my build cost. But I think your note on using RAID 1+0 instead, is a better choice here. Thanks!

u/BranWafr · 2 pointsr/wiiu

It does if you have the right kind of cable. One USB port does not put out enough power, but if you have a USB cable with 2 connectors on one end, it will get enough power for most drives. I used a 500 gig SATA drive on my Wii with this kind of cable.

But, here is a hard drive enclosure that has an external power supply and works with 2.5 and 3.5 inch drives.

u/dogeatdawg · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You need to get it connected to SATA data and power connections, something like this (I can't personally vouch for the quality).

For best results stick to USB 3 (or higher), and make sure you have a USB 3 connector on your case/board to get the right transfer speeds.

u/crapperkeeper · 2 pointsr/techsupport

> Is there a way to quickly connect the HDD to my laptop,

You'll need something like an external enclosure or a SATA to USB adapter to be able to connect it to your laptop. The enclosure/docking station I listed is a bit overkill as it works with both 2.5" and 3.5" disk drives. You can save almost half the price if you get a dedicated 2.5" OR 3.5" dedicated enclosure.

> permanently delete the already deleted files, then disconnect it and put it back where he had it?

Assuming you can get the HDD connected to your laptop, the free version of CCeaner has the capability to permanently remove those "deleted" files that still reside on the drive. Here's a youtube video showing how it's done (sorry the guy is a little hard to understand, but I think you'll get the idea). Good luck and feel free to ask questions should you have any.

u/KittySec · 2 pointsr/techsupport

If you only have a little bit of data to transfer, you could copy what you need to a USB flash drive and move it with the help of that.

If you have a fair bit of data and don't mind removing the hard drive temporarily, you could consider getting an enclosure like this to turn your desktop hard drive into an external drive. Then you can either keep it that way or copy the files you want over to your laptop, then put the drive back into the desktop.

u/deep_louisiana · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

If that HDD is working properly, you could go for the whole enclosure and use the thing as a proper external HDD - https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Lay-Flat-Docking-EC-DFLT/dp/B00LS5NFQ2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1503218559&sr=8-4&keywords=sata+usb+enclosure

u/Museus · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Not sure if you're talking about this one, but I found one that looks good on Amazon, here
If you want something a bit more... sturdy, there's one here as well.

u/WinterCharm · 2 pointsr/apple

No :) By external enclosure, I mean One of these

Also, If you have made a time machine backup on the 1 TB external drive, you'll be able to restore all your files and settings and programs exactly as they were, with just one click. :)

However, you still need to:

  1. Download a Copy of Yosemite from the Mac App Store (Free)
  2. Obtain an 8 GB USB Stick
  3. Download DiskMaker X
  4. Make sure the flash drive is empty!
  5. Plug in the Flash Drive, Run DiskMaker X, and select the correct flash drive. Then, wait about an hour or so, and it should finish the process. Do not let your mac go to sleep during this time, so you may want to use caffeine.

    Once this is done, you should have a bootable disk, that will work just like an OS X CD would, however it's a USB drive :)

    Now... what you'll do is put the SSD you just bought into the external enclosure (from the link above) and you'll be able to plug it in like an external hard drive. Run Disk Utility on OS X and format the external SSD as a "Mac OS X Extended (Journaled)" drive.

    Once you do that, back up your computer using Time Machine, to the external 1TB hard drive you already have.

    Finally, Open up your mac, Swap the SSD for the HDD. This is the tutorial I'd watch in order to do this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y_vk2wKwmzg (they upgrade the RAM and the Hard drive to an SSD) I've watched the entire thing to make sure it's legitimate :)

    :) Feel free to PM me anytime if you have issues with the process. I'll get back to you as quickly as I can. Cheers.
u/mmtree · 2 pointsr/buildapc

What size are you looking for? 1-3tb? Wd caviar blue 7200rpm with an external enclosure is a good way to go.

Sabrent usb 3.0 enclosure

WD 1tb Blue

u/tmlhalo · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You can use stuff like this to make your internal / external storage needs interchangeable and just purchase internal drives from that point on.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LS5NFQ2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1468269311&sr=1-3&pi=SY200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=517WZtWkh4L&ref=plSrch

u/nerddrgn · 2 pointsr/battlestations

A USB 3 hard drive enclosure. Lets you swap drives out.

This one specifically, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LS5NFQ2/

u/kur1j · 2 pointsr/xboxone

Are you having any issues with your external drive disconnecting and reconnecting?

I have one of these (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LS5NFQ2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and put a 2.5" drive in it and randomly (every 5-15 min) the disk drive disconnects from the xbox and reconnects saying "your drive is now ready".

I got a different external enclosure and it seems to work but I can't keep it as it isn't mine.

u/thunderhayes · 2 pointsr/computers

Yeah, the other option I was looking at is this type of enclosure that would make it connect via USB.

u/argus2968 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Speakers: Edifier R1280DB.

Go with 2.0 bookshelf speakers, not 2.1 computer speakers. These have Bluetooth, optical, and coax. Oh, and they sound amazing.

Headphones are tricker. Will you also be using them with a console or a phone at any point? Want to keep them on while running to get a cup of tea or take a leak? Do you play FPS's?

You have few different options:

Convenience be damned you want awesome audio quality above all else.

  • Get a DAC. Sennheiser GSX 1000. Modern, slick gaming features, solid DAC. Little Dot MKII. Because toooobs.

  • Open back headphones. There are a million suggestions at dozens of different price points. I recommend prioritizing comfort, spatial positioning, and a warm sound that won't cause listening fatigue.

  • Modular attachable boom mic. Antlion Audio ModMic 5 or Minimic. Don't underestimate these mics. They sound amazing, you have little-to-no background noise, don't need any additional acoustic treatment, and you don't have to worry about boom arms and the like.

  • Blue Yeti. You just couldn't imagine not having a huge mic like you see streamers using. It's the defacto go-to mic for a reason. Keep in mind everyone will hear your mouse and keyboard and that guy diving by and your dog sneezing and...

    Wireless PC and PS4.

  • SteelSeries Arctis 7. Wireless for PC and PS4, wired for Xbox (blame Microsoft).





    Gaming headphones.

  • Wired. HyperX Cloud Alpha or HyperX II

  • Wireless. Corsair Void
u/Mrbucket101 · 2 pointsr/hardwareswap

The Blue Yeti doesn't come with a pop-filter.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00N1YPXW2

u/kevnadz · 2 pointsr/letsplay

Yeeeee Blackout Blue Yeti! I paid full price for mine but they are $90 on Amazon right now!

u/ph0x79 · 2 pointsr/snes

Enjoyed the vid. Audio quality was the only issue imo, as others have mentioned. Here's a really popular mic I've seen many Twitch streamers using: https://smile.amazon.com/Blue-Microphones-Yeti-USB-Microphone/dp/B00N1YPXW2/ref=zg_bs_3015406011_1

Thanks for making the vid!

u/StayFrosty7 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Audio Technica ATR-2500 for $75

CAD u37 for $50

Snowball iCE for $50

Samson Go

Samson C01 for $70



If you can pony up a bit, the Blue Yeti Blackout for $130 will blow these other mics out of the water (not to say that they're bad, but this one is really good in comparison).

Also, don't forget to get a stand (preferably a scissor stand for your desk) and a pop filter.

u/dman81 · 2 pointsr/Twitch

This seems to be a popular one. Blue Yeti USB Microphone - Blackout Edition https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N1YPXW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_F3eazb565E53S

This is the one I want to get
Shure SM7B Vocal Dynamic Microphone, Cardioid https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002E4Z8M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_c5eazbXZ73MRP

u/Andr00F · 2 pointsr/HeadphoneAdvice

I have a pair of the 58x jubilee on the way, and I’m going to be using my blue yeti. I also have this mic arm and pop filter combo with this shock mount that I have been using for the past couple of months and has worked out really well.

u/foreverfriend_zoned · 2 pointsr/buildapc

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N1YPXW2/ref=twister_B07F77QHP2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Purchased last year around christmas for around 100 and it came with a game (watch dogs 2 I think?)

u/DiscipleTD · 2 pointsr/Twitch

Try this (Blue Yeti Mic) and this mic stand

​

These might look a little like his buddies. But the mic is very recommended from streamers and such, I personally us it and it is great. If he likes his headphones then a new mic would be another step to improve his audio.

​

I would say that I am not sure this is ideal for him, just trying to help as much as I can based on the original post!

​

EDIT: This is a cheaper mic made by the same company that is also a great option. Best of luck!

u/dzifzar · 2 pointsr/beatbox

Totally doable via software or hardware, and can be pretty cheap.

It really depends on your mic -- the Yetis have a headphone port on them, so if it's powered the sound will go through the headphone jack. And if you have a USB mic, garageband/audacity/audition have monitoring options that can be pretty quick (I often use mine with unnoticeable lag).

If you have an XLR mic, there are a handful of mini soundboards that will allow you to plug your headphones in directly, w/o a computer. If the mic is powered then you might be able to get an XLR to 1/8" converter and plug the headphones directly in, if it's unpowered that wouldn't work so well.

​

Hope this helps!

u/OrionParadox · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

My birthday was yesterday, and I got this mic and this new longboard coming Sunday and Monday! I'm beyond excited for both of them and its driving me nuts that I have to wait even until tomorrow for the mic

u/VertigoHC · 2 pointsr/Twitch

You could get a Blue Yeti it has an omnidirectional mode which is pretty powerful just turn up the gain and you'll get to hear every squeak, belch and fart your players make. I currently use a Blue Yeti myself and you can do a lot of stuff with the software to help with your problem.

u/CRockTV · 2 pointsr/heroesofthestorm

I have heard great things about the Yeti by Blue Microphones its also #1 on amazon for computer microphones, so that helps.

u/WeGotLighters · 2 pointsr/Twitch

If you're willing to go a little over budget I'd pick up the [Logitech C920] (https://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/hd-pro-webcam-c920) and the [Blue Yeti Microphone] (https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Yeti-USB-Microphone-Blackout/dp/B00N1YPXW2/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1520708427&sr=1-3&keywords=blue+yeti). Both of these are quality equipment that even bigger streamers with a large budget use. If that's outside of your price range, I'd switch out the Yeti for the [Blue Snowball] (https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Snowball-iCE-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B014PYGTUQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1520708583&sr=1-2&keywords=blue+snowball). It's still a good quality microphone for around half the price of the Yeti. I'm not sure if there is anything better at that price range but I've heard nothing dealbreaking about either the Yeti/Snowball or the C920.

As for tips, I'd recommend having some way to look at chat and whatever alert system you use (We use StreamLabs) without having to alt-tab out of game constantly. Whether it's a two monitor setup, a tablet/phone, or even playing in windowed mode, interacting with the people watching is definitely important.

u/Mebbwebb · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Amazon prime now is not available in 97% of all towns, cities, and villages. My comment was without any extra promos considered.

But yes your comment is valid if you can use that promo.

Also the blackout is 71.99 for me right now

https://primenow.amazon.com/dp/B00N1YPXW2?m=A2LQ1988UZZWEF&qid=1481938433&sr=1-0&ref_=pn_sr_sg_0_img_A2LQ1988UZZWEF

u/Hercusleaze · 2 pointsr/ZReviews
u/Therion596 · 2 pointsr/tabletop

For this podcast, we used a Yeti Microphone sitting in the middle of the table. There were a number of problems with this - any contact with the table is audible, phones vibrating are audible, etc. The editing process was extensive. I have written a list of Best Practices for my group to use in the future to try to cut back on these. The sound quality is pretty excellent, though.

u/RedSky1895 · 2 pointsr/DnD

C920. Buy once, cry once - the resolution is only part of the equation of good pictures across more than 3ft of distance. Do you have an area microphone for the table? If not, a Blue Yeti or Snowball will do nicely without breaking the bank (relatively speaking, in any case). You can use the microphone on the webcam, but all of them suck in my experience. Try it first, but be aware that you may desire more.

u/SilverSix311 · 2 pointsr/pcgamingtechsupport

I recommend getting some Studio Over Ear Headphones, and getting a Mod Mic or Desk Mic to go along with it. I bought an Antlion ModMic for the wife, and it works great. Sounds great as well compared to all the shitty gaming headset mics. My setup is a Razer Seiren Pro that I got on a banging deal almost $100 cheaper than typical pricing :). I have a mic stand that sits right above my monitors. It does pick up echoes if I have my speakers turned up too loud, but it's not too bad. I use voice meeter banana to route all my audio to 2 separate audio devices so I can just mute my speakers and put headphones on.

 

Recommendations:
Desk Mic: Blue Yeti - ~$120, Blue Snowball ~$50
Mod Mic: Antlion ModMic ~$60, V Moda BoomPro ~$30 (V Moda Mic wont work on all headphones)
Headphones: r/Headphones | Read about headphones.

 

They come down to preference for the user typically. I have M-Audio Q40's with Beyerdynamic's EDT 770 V Replacement Pads. You probably won't be able to find any Q40's online, but I bought mine back in 2010 and I still use them today. I've replaced the audio cable probably 10+ times now. They are built to endure, and they are not that comfortable with the stock pads. Put the EDT 770 V pads on and feels like a cloud. I personally also have a desk headphone amp to get clearer/crisper sound.
As I said, this all comes down to preference. You need to research specific items you are interested in. Try to find reviews on reddit or forums. I wouldn't follow "reviews" that are articles on web pages. Half of those are BS and are generally favored towards the provider of the equipment unfortunately.
Typical google searches would be:
M-Audio Q40 headfi
Blue Yeti Pro reddit
Blue Yeti Pro Issues reddit
mod mic reddit

 

Good luck on your ventures! Let me know if you have any other questions.

PS - If you have a mechanical keyboard, invest in o-rings/pads to help with the clickiness, or if you don't have a mechanical keyboard and you are looking for one, get silent keys. I forget the actual switch types names.

u/BobaFettThicc · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Ok.

If you want to pursue good audio I recommended the PreSonus Eris 3.5, they are good budget studio monitors. For headphones, I would recommend the Beyerdynamic DT 990 Pro 250 Ohm version. These are very good headphones for the price. Then I would pair the Beyerdynamic headphones with a good Audio Interface like Focusrite Scarlett Solo (3rd Gen) it's a good budget audio interface that doesn't break the bank. For a microphone, a Blue Yeti USB mic will do well. However, if you want an XLR microphone, which is better btw. A well-rounded XLR microphone is the Audio-Tecnica AT2020.

u/darthvacuous · 2 pointsr/u_heartdamage

Microphone suggestion:
Depends on if you want to buy a audio interface (XLR-USB) and a mic or a combo. I started out with a audio-technica ATR2100. Its a great mic for the price and you can use it without an usb interface.


Comes with a little stand and and you can hook it up to USB. I would get foam cover for it so you don't pop your pees. (Heck I'll send you mine for free)

Or you can get the humungus Blue yetti mic all the streamers buy.

I have a Heil PR40 I use for my recording and radio stuff.

Bon Appetite: Claire is my waifu dog.

GoT: Should I get back into the madness? I'm a few seasons behind.

Travel Recommendations:
I like hiking and nature so natural parks are my Jam. Colorado/Utah are awesome. I'm actually planning a trip to Cuba myself. Have you considered Hawaii?

u/jivedinmypants · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I personally have a Blue Yeti Blackout Edition on a spider mount connected to a scissor arm. Set it to cardioid mode. I usually voice chat with my friends and they don't hear my typing unless I'm super violent with my keys. Though they can hear when I jiggle my foot since that runs the vibrations through my desk.

u/coredumperror · 2 pointsr/teslamotors

I use this USB hub to let me plug more than two things into the front USB ports. It's cheap and effective.

u/LegalOak · 2 pointsr/PS4

This is a great investment. Living in an apartment complex, I experience several quick power cuts a month. I have my tv, receiver, game systems, modem and router hooked into this and never even notice. Internet stays on, cable stays on, gaming stays on.

I use this one for my computer.

These will keep your electronics safe.

u/pythonpoole · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Personally I've used CyberPower UPS units like this one for many years without issue (this particular one has an average rating of 4.5 stars with 2800 reviews [73% rate it 5 stars]). However, I think the CyberPower warranty may only cover the UPS device itself.

Another popular brand that competes with CyberPower is APC.

u/Rumplesforeskin · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Everyone should get themselves one of these!
It's enough to keep my PC, monitor, modem, and router all on so even when the power goes out You can still game and your internet still works!

u/Chrisfragslive · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Lots of options but you don't need a pure sinewave, many use a simulated one and it's perfectly fine.

The issue is the pass through.. You need it to be big enough to carry the load of your rig at full power off of the battery.

I have this one and it keeps up with my high end gaming rig with a 1200watt psu..

CyberPower CP1500AVRLCD Intelligent LCD UPS System, 1500VA/900W, 12 Outlets, AVR, Mini-Tower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HGhwDbZ1PWS6Z

u/xgnarf · 2 pointsr/homelab

Battery backups aren't meant to keep your stuff running for an hour or two, they're for giving you a few minutes time in order to gracefully shut down your devices. If you want an hour or two you'll need to get a seriously overpowered UPS and at that point you're better off getting a generator. My 1500VA UPS gives me ~20 minutes with my ~225W load. Mine is a 1500VA Cyberpower UPS it's nice and I like it but it's not a rack mount, if that's what you want.

u/RecursivelyNerdy · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Try a UPS that has active filtering. I had that happen quite a bit and then I got something like linked below and I have no more problems. You'd be surprised at the fluctuations that can happen in your residential electrical.

https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK

u/rohit275 · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Sorry for being noob...but what's %output THD? For example, here's the simulated sinewave cyberpower model:
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Mini-Tower-Features/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486670594&sr=8-1&keywords=cyberpower+ups

They talk about how it's great for "desktop computers" but in their table they don't say it is rated for active PFC power supplies. Most of the people here (if they follow advice on BAPC) will buy an 80+ rated PSU that will always be active PFC. My impression is that it might work, but the only guaranteed ones are "pure sinewave" UPS units. I assume there is something better about the "pure sinewave" models that make them rated for PFC power supplies.

Does this %output THD have something to do with that? How do we determine it? (I didn't see anything on the product page on amazon, for example)

u/Froggypwns · 2 pointsr/buildapc

One decent unit is enough for most. The UPS will have two sets of ports on the back, those that have battery backup and those that only act like a regular power strip. Plug the PCs and the main monitor from each into the battery side, and the rest into the surge protection side.

How long the battery will last will depend on the actual draw from whatever is attached, the included software will let you monitor that information

I use an older version of this guy - https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Mini-Tower-Features/dp/B000FBK3QK

u/cranq · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I had two of those little guys (older more brick like form) but after a good run (5 - 7 years) one of them died outright, and the other had very little capacity left. They were cheap enough that I just replaced them with a bigger one, check out this 1500VA bad boy

It comes with a nice little PC app that lets you monitor battery status, and estimates how long it can run based on current power draw.

Right now, I have mine powering a cable modem, wi-fi router, 16 port Ethernet switch, VOIP box, a small 2 disk NAS box, raspberry pi 2, raspberry pi 3, and a Panasonic wireless phone base station.

Total draw: 27 watts, estimated uptime: 467 minutes.

u/commiecat · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

We use APC at work and I have a CyberPower at home (on Amazon). Happy with both brands. I went with CyberPower for cost as it had great reviews. Have had the unit running for a few years now and it does the job.

u/Superbuttpain · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Hmm, what about something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-1500VA-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1449274420&sr=1-1&keywords=cyberpower

Specially if your a Web Designer least you want is doing some extensive work and out of sudden all is lost due to a power shortage. :p

u/StrangerOfTheDay · 2 pointsr/gaming

Any electronic over 150$ Plug it into UPS like this one.

Im guessing your outlet, and or your house has shity wiring.

u/mad_vtak · 2 pointsr/synology

i literally just bought two of these last week after having a 10 sec power outage. DS1515+ I tested and i have a good 70min before power is lost from the UPS. the 2nd UPS is hooked up to my desktop and monitor. roughly 2hr 10min before power is completely lost.

edit: adding pics

Synology UPS

Desktop UPS

u/swat402 · 2 pointsr/hardwareswap

Can you tell me how it compares to this cyberlink model they look pretty much the same to me except price? Also what kind of usage did it see? Thanks! https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FBK3QK/ref=aw_wl_ov_dp_1_2?colid=259V432JVTPRO&coliid=I3A101U7F0OE45&vs=1

u/liesforliars · 2 pointsr/headphones

Hi, r/headphones!!

I've never really owned a pair of headphones, IEM's are as close as I've gotten. I had been using a budget pair of Panasonic RPHJE120K IEM's and had a pair of Bose OE2 headphones until my puppy chewed them both up.

I've frequented this sub for some time, the choice selection and the setups you guys have are ridiculous. I've a very basic understanding of audio still but hope to improve. My hat goes off to all of you. So here goes..

What are your thoughts on the VSonic VSD1S? Or maybe something similar? I will be using them for gaming by plugging them into my Cyber Acoustics Subwoofer Satellite System when I don't want it blasting in the middle of the night; for music on my iPhone, and for some /r/asmr videos whenever I need to relax.

  • Budget - $50
  • Source - iPhone 4S, speakers
  • Isolation - Some
  • Preferred type of headphone - IEM (for now)
  • Preferred tonal balance - Balanced? (soundstage for asmr?)
  • Past headphones - Bose OE2
  • Preferred Music - Prog rock, Hip Hop, Pop Punk (wide variety)
  • Location - US


    Thanks again!!
u/ChrisGrant1995 · 2 pointsr/macsetups

They are these ones [here.]
(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015C30J0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) For $30 I don't think you will find a better set of speakers on Amazon, and I am a fan of them, considering the price, but from what I have heard from friends that actually know about speakers, these are the best set of speakers you can get under $50 on amazon.

u/Edathi · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I know you said built in speakers but id say get this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=24-009-483 and a nice pair of speakers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0027VT6V4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_9ffyub0DKY1XY

I hope this helps.
(Sorry about formatting im on mobile)

u/shotbylite · 2 pointsr/audio

I have a Cyber Acoustics 2.1 System (CA-3602 and I'm very happy with them.

EDIT: Especially for $40.

u/xTLx · 2 pointsr/battlestations

Cyber Acoustics Subwoofer Satellite System. I bought them on amazon a while back because my friend had them as well. I can't claim to know too much about audio, but for being a pretty inexpensive setup I was very satisfied with how it sounded.

u/Pnkelephant · 2 pointsr/AskBattlestations

Only complaint about these is the headphone jack for the desktop tuner needs more power.

Other than that, they sound great, good (adjustable) bass, pretty solid for the price.

u/TristanwithaT · 2 pointsr/battlestations

The speakers are these. I have them and they're great for the price.

u/vmj19 · 2 pointsr/Filmmakers

This Cyber Acoustics set has been great and for headphones I use Sony MDR-V6

u/xyphonic · 2 pointsr/audio

You don't have to spend much for what you're looking for. These are the go-to 2.1 system for those on a budget. $40 and 1500 reviews to convince you. I have them in an 8x8 room and I bought a Klipsch 2.1 for $100 at the same time. Returned the Klipsch system because the Cybers perform better.

u/Ferreteria · 2 pointsr/k12sysadmin

I ceiling mounted these in the front of the classroom:

https://www.amazon.com/Cyber-Acoustics-CA-3602a-Computer-Subwoofer/dp/B0027VT6V4

I haven't had one go bad yet and they are loud enough to be heard in the next class over.

u/Some_Human_On_Reddit · 2 pointsr/buildapc

1 -

  • Not getting into a whole AMD vs Nvidia, but at 1080, I believe the 7970 performs better. Once you get into higher resolutions, then the 670 is better.

  • I'd recommend you wait on the SSD and pick up a 128GB on sale for the same price, but only if you're willing to wait a week or two.

  • The Hyper 212 will allow you to overclock, but don't expect miracles from a $30 cooler. If you're looking to overclock a little more without spending the big bucks, look into the Corsair H50 or H101.

    2 -

  • Your goal of 120+ FPS might be a little hard to achieve, especially with FRAPS. TF2 is CPU intensive and looking at some benchmarks from one guy with slightly better specs (i7-920 @ 3.75 GHz, GTX 680), you can probably only hit a steady 100-110 FPS without FRAPS.

  • As I said before, overclocking is very meh, but possible.

  • I went through and checked your parts for Hackintosh issues. I wasn't able to find any, so it looks like you're golden!

    3 -

  • These are $40 on Amazon, well rated.
u/krakissi · 2 pointsr/Perfectfit

I can second the recommendation for these speakers. Available on amazon.

u/untrustableskeptic · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

For the price they are freaking awesome. I really have no complaints against them. 38 bucks on Amazon.

u/Cock_Diesel1 · 2 pointsr/hardwareswap

These speakers are the tits. They have pretty awesome sound (I'm not much of audiophile) and they have way more volume than you would expect. It's even better if you have Amazon Prime and you get free 2 day shipping. Highly recommended:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0027VT6V4/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/IncognitoTux · 2 pointsr/homelab

I would go with an HP microserver. That should give you one internal SATA and 4 hot swap.

Or use an external JBOD like this: https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-ProBox-HF2-SU3S2-SATA-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4

u/maineguy1988 · 2 pointsr/DataHoarder

Do you all run any kind of stress tests on yours before shucking? I just bought two more today and I'm wondering if it's really worth testing them. I sure hope mine are Reds so I don't have to deal with the stupid 3.3 pin thing. I plan on putting them in my MediaSonic Probox here. Should I have an issue if they are whites?

EDIT: Got home and found out both are reds! Sweet. Just gonna run HD Sentinel tests on them I think before shucking.

u/cnhn · 2 pointsr/mac

you could just add a USB3 JBOD enclosure and put your drives in that. one connector lots of disks.

edit: like this one

u/PsyWolf · 2 pointsr/linux

Yeah, so any external enclosure should do. My only recommendation is to go with one that supports eSata instead of a USB only one. USB enclosures often make it harder than necessary to run SMART health tests on your drives, which is something you'll want to be able to do on your array. See http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r28235888-Getting-S-M-A-R-T-data-from-USB-external-drives

Also, take this with a grain of salt, but I've personally had bad experiences running an always-on raid array on this mediasonic bad boy. It works 99% of the time, but once a month or so it just powers down all the drives and I have to reassemble my array to get it back. If you're gonna leave your array running 24-7, I'd stay away from that one.

u/DrabKerr · 2 pointsr/DataHoarder

I do all of this on Ubuntu with a ZFS array, so this is just a question. Have you tried Storage Spaces for this? I would think you could create pools out of your similar sized drives. And it is built into Windows 10.

My Media 'Server':

Ubuntu Desktop OS
Docker Containers running all the usual Apps.
Dell Optiplex 3020SFF
16GB RAM
Root Drive= 64GB SSD
Media Cache Drive=64GB SSD

MediaSonic ProBox connected via USB3
4x4TB Raw Storage = 7TB usable storage


https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-ProBox-HF2-SU3S2-SATA-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4

u/RedXon · 2 pointsr/PleX

That depends on the OS you are running on that box. If it is Unraid for example you would be able to add external drives in an external enclosure for example. Or you could "simply" switch to a bigger case and just go from there. Or as an extreme case scenario you could buy another server and mount the disk there as network mounts (assuming your network is fast enough) or something like that. THe question is what you are willing to pay for that expansion. But yeah, the simplest I guess would be something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-ProBox-HF2-SU3S2-SATA-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4/ref=sr_1_2?fst=as%3Aoff&qid=1568789811&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A2886986011&rnid=2886899011&s=pc&sr=1-2

(NOt this one in particular, I have no experience with this one, it was just the first I found. Just look for eSATA or if possible external SAS could be even possible, and not USB).

u/brennok · 2 pointsr/DataHoarder

Yeah most of the enclosures like this don't have the best reviews. I kept eyeing the Mediasonic ones, but nothing was overwhelmingly positive.

u/tearsintheoven · 2 pointsr/DataHoarder

Do you need all storage to be accessible at the same time, or are you able to swap multiple drives in and out?

If you need all storage connected and accessible at the same time, I'd say go for 4 x 8 TB hard drives

https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Expansion-Desktop-External-STEB8000100/dp/B01HAPGEIE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497386514&sr=8-1&keywords=STEB8000100

and pair it with a probox:

https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-ProBox-HF2-SU3S2-SATA-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1497386559&sr=1-1&keywords=probox

With tax, that will put you right up against $1000 for 32 TB in a fairly enclosed and accessible setup.


u/cyclone_99 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I was looking at similar boxes recently, but for esata. I ended up not needing one, but this was the one I was planning on buying (it has esata and usb 3.0):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003X26VV4

u/mkadam68 · 2 pointsr/PleX

Well, it's not strictly a NAS, but for the past few years, I've created my own pseudo-NAS by using two MediaSonic ProBox's attached via USB3 to my Win10 Plex server. It can also connect via eSATA if you want. It's alot cheaper than a NAS box at $100, and they do have versions you can RAID. I run StableBit DrivePool to make management of the media files I put on it easier (and DrivePool can setup a parity drive as well).

https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-ProBox-HF2-SU3S2-SATA-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4.

u/dandruski · 2 pointsr/sffpc

Are you opposed to connecting something externally? One of these works great especially if the drives primarily hold media. I had one previously and had no problem getting max read/writes off the HDDs I had in it connected via USB3

u/jftuga · 2 pointsr/homelab

I have used this for about a year without any problems. I works well with the USB-3 interface.

https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-ProBox-HF2-SU3S2-SATA-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4

u/Nitobert · 2 pointsr/PleX

Ok so I think your going about this the wrong way.

I’m try to keep it as simple as possible.

Most people use a NAS along with a Plex server because a NAS just can’t do it on its own. They don’t have the proper hardware to perform as good as a computer. You will not be happy!

If you want simple the I would buy a Nvidia Shield and set it up at your server.

I would also buy an external storage device for your hard drives. You can use a nas but you can also use something like this.

The shield might be a little intimidating to you when you set it up but trust me it’s your best plug and play solution available.

u/Arakin · 2 pointsr/computers

I rebooted and it finally recognized the enclosure, but only one of the 3 drives. I'm using the Mediasonic Probox HF2-SU3S2

http://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-ProBox-HF2-SU3S2-Drive-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4

u/theknyte · 2 pointsr/pcmods

If you want a 4 bay, then go with something like THIS.

If you want cheaper, than you'll have to use bigger drives, and get a 2 bay for around $50 - $60.

u/Greg00135 · 2 pointsr/PleX

Kind of like u/RedXon said, I would recommend against a USB 3.0 hub you will probably run into more headaches than it is worth.


If you are dead set on continuing to use your Nvidia Shield as the server I would recommend getting something like this drive Enclosure

u/Razztech · 2 pointsr/DataHoarder
u/junostar · 2 pointsr/DataHoarder

Mediasonic ProBox does exactly what you want - 4 drives per device, USB or eSATA, not super expensive. I use a couple of them for my JBOD pool. They have an 8-drive capacity model but it's not worth the extra money imo.

u/rotll · 2 pointsr/DataHoarder

Here's a $100 solution to consider...

u/PCisahobby · 2 pointsr/DataHoarder

Mediasonic ProBox HF2-SU3S2 4 Bay 3.5" SATA HDD Enclosure - USB 3.0 & eSATA Support SATA 3 6.0Gbps HDD transfer speed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003X26VV4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tGzxybECG1SXZ


These work really well.

u/dhmtb11 · 2 pointsr/PleX

Mediasonic ProBox HF2-SU3S2 4 Bay 3.5" SATA HDD Enclosure - USB 3.0 & eSATA Support SATA 3 6.0Gbps HDD transfer speed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003X26VV4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_PamHzlHkrmcjv

u/geekstrada · 2 pointsr/cordcutters

I am using a late 2012 base model.

The enclosure I got is available on Amazon for $99.

I have no idea what some of the reviews are taking about with them not working with USB 3 speeds. Mine is smoking fast. Make sure you set the Mini to never sleep so you don't run into RAID corruption issues. But since it is going to be a media downloader, you wouldn't want it to sleep anyway. Plus, the power footprint is tiny.

I am using these drives. They were on sale for $149 each, and will be again I would assume.

u/gyrferret · 2 pointsr/buildapc

So something like this? or even this?

I mean, they seem decently priced for what they do, and especially if you're providing the drives then yeah.

u/alxbyjn · 2 pointsr/PSVR

I use [this one](Anker 4-Port USB 3.0 Ultra Slim Data Hub for Mac, PC, USB Flash Drives and Other Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_b31.yb19SGTT7) and have the PU plugged in to it with no issues whatsoever.

u/teh_i · 2 pointsr/Surface
u/OJ_Dealer · 2 pointsr/PS4

Sending it to Sony will cost you more in the long run, try a USB hub.
Here's a link to a cheap affordable one Anker 4-Port USB 3.0 Ultra Slim Data Hub for Macbook, Mac Pro / mini, iMac, Surface Pro, XPS, Notebook PC, USB Flash Drives, Mobile HDD, and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vIlpzbMBRVAHC

u/C0lDsp4c3 · 2 pointsr/SmashBrosUltimate

Yes, but I just googled a bit.
It seems like the Nintendo Switch supports USB Hubs, meaning you could just buy any USB hub and if it doesn't work you could always send it back. Just do it through Amazon.

Example: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-4-Port-Macbook-Surface-Notebook/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1539641683&sr=8-7&keywords=usb+hub

u/mahkus11 · 2 pointsr/teslamotors

I was finally able to find a reddit user to trade so that I'll have two lightning cables for the front dock (I have no interest in wireless charging).

Does anybody have a recommendation for something I can use to split the USB port so I can charge an iPhone while also using the dashcam? I was looking at this Anker unit on Amazon. Thanks!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_45IBCb16H523D

u/jaspercapri · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

I had the same problem. And plugging in the charger at the same time as someone else suggested didn’t help either. I just used a non-powered usb hub in between and it worked fine. This is the one i used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_SZvNBbARNQKVP

u/radio_breathe · 2 pointsr/AlienwareAlpha

Anker 4-Port USB 3.0 Ultra Slim Data Hub for Mac, PC, USB Flash Drives and Other Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_19U7ybMQYCGBR

u/razed_thoughts · 2 pointsr/razer

Bro. Here's my setup:

https://bourgedesign.com/products/arc-hub

then add:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NOP70EC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_TlIw6xqtN8ByF

to this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_3cVe3OX2LpqR8

this is for when Im on the road. At home I use my monitor as a hub:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y2XRYB2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_T.NLzb2V2XBJ5

usb-c is great. I can hotswap my xps and rbs with one cable

u/UGot2Handit2Leprecns · 2 pointsr/teslamotors

This Hub works with the dashcam on my Model 3

u/mememuseum · 2 pointsr/techsupport

You could get a USB hub to exoand your number of USB ports. This should let you use a USB wifi adapter.

u/Curiousilly · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Just thought I'd mention that it's possible (though clunky) to bypass the power limits using a USB hub like this inline with the dongle (in between the dongle and the keyboard). I do this with my iPad and my Mechmini (which annoyingly "draws too much power").

u/dptt · 2 pointsr/axolotls

I had my little guy in a 5g when I got him and used these to keep it cool. (linking directly to usa amazon just so you know what I got but you'd probably be better off finding the same/similar on a more appropriate site for your location!)

USB Fans (x2) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XN24GY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - these are SUPER quiet - could barely hear them when running!

USB Hub - I covered up the two remaining ports with tape so water didn't get in it, but you could also just get a hub with two ports instead of four! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XMD7KPU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Extension cable to plug in the hub to my power strip that had usb outlets. If your power strip doesn't have a usb port then you'll need to get a brick as well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00007FGU5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

In the North Carolina summer at 90-110 degrees F, this kept my tank at about 62-65 F

u/EventuallyGreat · 2 pointsr/3DS

I'd recommend getting an SD card with a faster read/write speed.
A class 4 SD card will give you longer load times.
You might have probably ordered the one you posted already, but I thought I should share this anyway.

It's a UHS I Micro SD card with an adapter for a regular SD Card slot. [Link: Amazon]

I used the same one with the adapter in my original 3DS and I have the same one in my N3DSXL right now. (albeit without the adapter) The faster speed does make a difference in load times and loading up games.

u/VoomPeng · 2 pointsr/RetroPie

I looked up Pitendo and my god is that a ripoff, there's maybe 60 bucks worth of things there. Here, look:
This

https://www.amazon.com/Vilros-Raspberry-Basic-Starter-Kit--Clear/dp/B01D92SSX6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1469219491&sr=8-2&keywords=raspberry+pi+3

https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-microSDHC-Standard-Packaging-SDSQUNC-032G-GN6MA/dp/B010Q57T02/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469219519&sr=8-1&keywords=32+gb+microsd

And whichever one of these you want https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=usb+controller

Is all you need, and you can honestly go for a Pi 2 Model B if you want to, and a smaller sd card maybe. Everything but the most demanding Dreamcast and N64 games work great on a 2, and N64 hardly works regardless of the model.


Honestly it's not a difficult set up, at least in my opinion. There's some troubleshooting you can do if you try and work out some more advanced things, but the basic set up is a breeze.

All you do is download the RetroPie image from the site, download Win32DiskImager, and write it to the card. It takes about 30 seconds to set up and maybe 3 clicks total.

After that, you put the microsd card into the pi, plug in your controllers, boot it up, follow the on screen controller config, and you're good to go.

Adding roms is as easy as putting in \\Retropie into any explorer window on you computer, if the pi is on your network, and dropping them into the console's folder. Everything else should be auto-configured and require little to no work on your end.

u/waka_flocculonodular · 2 pointsr/linuxadmin

The last thing you are allowed to do is give up! :) Give up when the world burns, but never before.

SanDisk Ultra is my go-to for Raspberry Pis.

u/rnelsonee · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

UHS-1 is equivalent to Class 10 so you're good. Well, on specs - you can get name brand cards for $11 on Amazon. That's the one I use and it's fine.

u/gigaplexorax · 2 pointsr/3dshacks

4 GB is enough to hack your 3DS (you need ~3 GB of free space), but you'll run out of room very quickly once the process is done. I recommend upgrading to a 32 GB card (or larger)

u/5k3k73k · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

ROBO 3D R1+ $799

Raspberry Pi 2 $38

WiFi adapter $10

Color touchscreen + case $50

Power supply $10

32GB SD Card $13

OctoPrint $0

Large build volume, heated glass bed, self leveling, wireless 3D printer $920



u/tapdancingwhale · 2 pointsr/Piracy

Ah, I see. Then you might want to get one of these. I got the exact same one from this seller (nds-card.com) and it works wonderfully on my DS Lite and DSi. Simply add the card firmware & your games to a FAT32-formatted memory card and play.

You'll also want to get one of these as well; a Micro SD card. I have a 32GB in mine, and I'm able to hold roughly 106 300MB-sized games.

u/downhillcarver · 2 pointsr/MyLittleMotorhead

Here ya go bro!

And you'll need one of these to go with it.

Pros:

  • automatically turns on/off with your car (as long as your power outlet turns off with your car).
  • records in 10 minute segments, deletes the oldest segment when card fills up.
  • G force sensor will automatically lock the current segment against deletion if it senses a crash (adjustable G force level).
  • 140 degree view means you can see cars that are alongside your hood.
  • suction cup actually works! It hadn't fallen off once in four months!

    Cons:
  • not true 1080p, it records in 720p then upscales it to 1080p. Video is still clear enough for liability reasons and sharing stupid stuff like this, but if you're gonna film your next track day you may be slightly disappointed with quality.
  • directions are in pretty bad engrish, if you get directions at all. I still haven't figured out how to change the time stamp.

    Neutral:
  • it claims to have infrared night vision, but I honestly can't see any real improvement over my Contour helmetcam which doesn't have IR. There's a chance it needs to be turned on but I haven't figured it out yet due to Engrish instructions.
  • decent sound pickup, but it can be overwhelmed if you listen to bass heavy music. This is partially because the area between your dashboard and your windshield likes to trap the bass.

    All in all, I'm happy with my purchase, though I only paid $50 for it. I'm planning to buy another one to point backwards at some point in the future. I also plan to hard wire them into my truck so that I don't have ugly cigarette plugs in every power port of my truck.

    I do wish I could mount it up higher on my windshield, but my windshield has a bunch of dots along the top for aesthetic and sun blockage, and the suction cup won't stick over those dots :/
u/ben8jam · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

If you buy individually you save a few dollars. I already had an HDMI cable, so didn't need to buy one. Also the micro-SD card comes with a adapter to full size SD card, so don't need the USB converter (unless you don't have an SD card reader), plus you get a brand name card. My kit was only 39.99, looks like price up $3, so it might go back down to 39.99 again.

Comes out to $66.50 (and less if you don't need an HDMI cable).

Pi + Power cable
https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Micro-Supply-Listed/dp/B01C6FFNY4/

32gb card
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-microSDHC-Standard-Packaging-SDSQUNC-032G-GN6MA/dp/B010Q57T02/

Clear case
https://www.amazon.com/SB-Components-Clear-Case-Raspberry/dp/B00MQLB1N6/

HDMI if you need one
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable-Standard/dp/B014I8SSD0/

u/Pr3no · 2 pointsr/Xiaomi

It depends on which Samsung ones and which Sandisk ones are you talking about.

I'm looking at the prices on Amazon, a 32 GB EVO Select from Samsung is $10, while a 32 GB Sandisk Ultra is $15, and both of them claim the same "up to 80 MB/s transfer speed", but I'm sure that's just the read speed and write speeds might be better on the Sandisk, hence why it's more expensive, but I haven't checked so I'm not sure.

I haven't heard of Samsung's Evo Select line before, judging from the price I assume it's a cheaper and worse performing line than the Evo, but you can also buy a 32 GB Samsung Evo+ for $15, so Samsung microSD's aren't more expensive.

u/edinc90 · 2 pointsr/videography

I'm going to assume you have the camera, a battery, and a housing.

You'll need a suction cup mount, and a micro SD card, class 10 or higher. The Hero4 supports up to 128 GB. The Hero3 is 64 GB, and the Hero supports up to 32 GB.

The capacity will be determined by how much footage you want to record. At 1080 30 fps you will get just under 3 hrs of record time on a 64 GB card.

u/Magillif · 2 pointsr/3DS

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010Q57T02/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the SD card that I got. It is 32 GB. For the price difference between 16 and 32 (~$4), I thought 32 was worth it. I did not have to reformat it or anything. It was great. No problems thus far.

If you're interested, I have 13 GB left and have installed:

  • Monster Hunter Gen
  • Paper Jam
  • ACNL
  • Fire Emblem Awakening
  • Fantasy Life
  • Rune Factory 4
  • Mario Kart 7
  • Bravely Default (and Second)
  • Story of Seasons
  • Harvest Moon: A New Beginning
  • Pokemon Y
  • Happy Home Designers
  • Random stuff that doesn't consume much data (pushmo, SNES converts, pocket jockey, etc.)

    For 10-20 games, I'm inclined to say you might be more satisfied with a 32 GB SD. Hope that helps! Happy gaming :)
u/hairysmoothie148 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

The parts I ordered were:
Raspberry Pi 3 - $35.97
PiTFT Plus 480x320 3.5" - $38.91
Sandisk Ultra 32GB - $13.95
Total: $88.83

I'll be hardwiring it using an Ethernet cable even though the Raspberry Pi 3 comes wifi enabled.

If you were to get the OctoPi Kit it would cost about $155.36 and wouldn't even come with a touch screen.

u/kiiingbob · 2 pointsr/3DS

I'm getting a New 3DS XL for X-mas so I was in the same boat as you, on google/reddit/amazon/youtube I was looking to see what I should get. Here's what I ultimately decided on:

u/godblesssloots · 2 pointsr/CalamariRaceTeam

This one. $12, 32gigs, 80mbps. Just remember, before you use it, go to settings, scroll all the way down, and hit "format memory card".

But I would try formatting your card first before spending the money.

u/Dain42 · 2 pointsr/Games

With the SD cards and the internal storage, it's possible that they're going to be doing some caching of assets that are likely to be needed soon to the onboard storage when playing games. That would be a possible way to get around people who buy the cheapest, slowest SD cards. They could also warn when a cheap, slow SD card is inserted and that it may slow things down.

But you're quite correct that newer SD cards have vastly improved read-write speeds. U3 cards are still a bit pricier than others, but not really too much more than a C10/U1 card. And if you look at the read speeds, you're getting 80-90 MB/s, which isn't that far off from a mid-range hard drive like a WD Blue.

/u/stellvia2016

u/bungiefan_AK · 2 pointsr/3dshacks

Some data is compared against what is internal to the system. Juggling multiple cards is not recommended. Why not just get a bigger card and move the data to it? 64 GB cards on Amazon are under $20 last I checked.

https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-microSDXC-Standard-Packaging-SDSQUNC-064G-GN6MA/dp/B010Q588D4

Just over $20 right now.

u/MetaRyan25 · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I got this SanDisk 64GB microSD card on sale for $14 $15 on Amazon. Sure, the read-speeds only go up to 80 MB/s, but usually the games that would really benefit from higher read-speeds are also released physically, and I'm buying physically when I can so I get the 20% Prime discount.

Edit: According to CamelCamelCamel, the lowest that SD card has ever been on Amazon is $15, so I guess I bought it for $15, not $14.

u/Atari_5200 · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Good thing a quality 64GB micro SDXC card is only about $16

u/foogles · 2 pointsr/SBCGaming

This is my favorite set up to give friends. Looks good and mostly foolproof hardware wise!

Raspberry Pi 3 Model B

Rasptendo SNES Case (IMO, connect the power button as intended, but either solder the reset button as per the method mentioned in there or don't connect it at all. This way there's no way for the user to do a non-safe shutdown of the OS)

Dual fan heatsink

Bluetooth adapter (more reliable than built-in bluetooth, change /boot/config.txt to disable onboard Bluetooth)

PS3 SIXAXIS Controller (Dualshock 3's work too, but I like the legit OEM ones, and those are hard to find. The convincing bootlegs/fakes are usually impossible to tell apart from legit ones when ordering online. That's why I look for used SIXAXIS controllers - no bootlegs. Also, I use PS3 controllers because pairing can be done or re-done entirely by connecting up mini-USB cables. No menus necessary once you set it up the first time!)

Sandisk 64GB MicroSD

Canakit PSU

HDMI cable, Mini-USB cable.


-----

For a more serious, less user-friendly but more overclockable setup, ditch the case/heatsink above and go with these instead:

Some kind of heatsink, I'm using one from the Kintaro case but I suspect the cheap stick-on heatsinks are probably fine too

this open-air case (throw out the fan as it's way too loud... I'm sure other open-air cases will work but I like that this one has the 40mm setup for the below fan and the little grille to prevent curious fingers from getting in there at least)

this Noctua 40mm 5v fan (expensive, but quiet and provides solid cooling)

u/jscythe · 2 pointsr/linuxmasterrace

I see physical media for games as changing again. For those games that can be run natively, I think SD cards will become more prominent. A regular blu ray disc can hold 25GB of data. A dual-layer blu ray can hold 50GB. We already have SD cards that can hold 64GB. The only reason DVDs and blu ray discs are still used for physical format is because they are much cheaper to produce at scale.

But having "locked in" physical media will (theoretically) place limits on piracy. More likely, I can see physical releases being more of a collector's item sort of thing. You are essentially paying for the box itself and not for the game. Since the media itself is scarce, it has more value than the data it contains. Not unlike the modern board game market really.

u/tomkatt · 2 pointsr/emulation

$35 is just for the Pi 3 itself. You can find Pi cases pretty cheap, like $7-$10. From there it's the HDMI cable (which you probably already have laying around), MicroSD card, and power supply.

It's powered over USB to outlet wart plug. 2.5a is recommended, but you can probably get away with 2.0a or 2.1a, which is more common. Or buy a full standalone power plug for it. Assuming you don't have a microSD card, 32GB is only ~$10 these days, and you can get a 64GB one for about double that.

So total cost might be around $50-75 depending on accessories and what you already have at hand versus what you need to buy. Still quite cheap for a retro emulation rig (and can always be repurposed as something cool like a firewall or mini-PC or something, since there are Linux builds for the Pi as well).

u/Seilaerion · 2 pointsr/MonsterHunter

Go to Settings -> Data Management -> 3DS -> Save-Data Backup

See if Monster Hunter 4U will allow you to backup your data. Most games will. I have a physical copy, so I can't check myself. If it does allow it, then do that before you delete the game.

That said, SD cards can be gotten quite cheaply. You could get a 64gb microsd for under $20 on Amazon right now.

Since that's over 32GB, you'd need to format it to FAT32 on your computer before using it in a 3DS, though. Or grab a 32GB for $10 I guess, but the 64GB is really the better deal.

u/atistang · 2 pointsr/truespotify

So I've tried an older smaller SD card I had laying around. So far it hasn't happened with this card. What card are you using? I figure since we both have the same issue we can share some ideas and maybe figure this thing out. The card I was using is this one. Also reading the reviews it seems lots of people complaining about the card randomly unmounting itself.

SanDisk Ultra 64GB microSDXC UHS-I Card with Adapter, Grey/Red, Standard Packaging (SDSQUNC-064G-GN6MA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010Q588D4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Wbxhzb9EFQ0VP

u/timberwolf95 · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Just a reminder that this 64gb is still only $15.99 for you budget minded people.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010Q588D4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YbZRybK4W863F

u/codenamejack · 2 pointsr/hardwareswap
u/kingmikel7 · 2 pointsr/nintendo

Thank you guys! Y'all answered my question within seconds!! One more question, I'm looking at these two cards and I want to see which you'd recommend and if there are any differences between the two.

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Memory-Adapter-MB-MC64DA-AM/dp/B01273JZMG/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1487695849&sr=8-5&keywords=micro+sd+samsung+64gb


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010Q588D4/ref=psdcmw_3015433011_t1_B01G26R7M4

u/doomrabbit · 2 pointsr/djiphantom

Memory card sale, if you need an upgrade.
https://smile.amazon.com/SanDisk-microSDXC-Standard-Packaging-SDSQUNC-064G-GN6MA/dp/B010Q588D4/

Thinking of a Fire tablet for a viewscreen, anybody have experience?

u/CannibalAngel · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Well, that depends. Are you willing to pay for the convenience of getting everything you need at once? Then sure it is. If not, then the price seems kinds high to me. $40 for this PI kit, $7 for this HDMI cable, $9 for this controller, and $15 for this 64GB SD card gets you in at $71 + shipping. $80 + shipping with a second controller.

u/codepoet82 · 2 pointsr/WiiUHacks

It must be on the SD card. The web browser (the only currently known primary entry point) doesn't have access to read from the USB ports at all, so there's no alternatives for it.

Personally, I'd recommend at least a 64GB card, this one from amazon is $20, and big enough to be able to run a rednand from.

u/Patius · 2 pointsr/GalaxyS7

Like /u/Draiko said, pretty much UHS-1 or above will be fine.

I use this one.

I've noticed no problems whatsoever. I put all my music, backups, and all the apps I can on there. I've had no issue running any of those apps. (Compared to the crappy SD card I got for free with my G4 last year, which froze on read only mode for no reason)

u/hdeck · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

They also have 64GB on sale for $17.99 if you are more strapped for cash


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010Q588D4/ref=ya_st_dp_summary?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/jjuanchow · 2 pointsr/MotoX

I am using this one http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010Q588D4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00 but I feel it is really slow. Spotify was all stuttery and laggy and Facebook forced closed because it took too much to load

However, Hearthstone works fine. Also I don't have problems recording 4k video.

u/Anergos · 2 pointsr/pcgaming

If your monitor has only VGA (DSUB) input:
---

for the PS3: an HDMI to VGA adapter.

for the N64: Composite to VGA converter

for the SNES: The above converter plus a component cable like this if you don't already have one.



-------------

If your monitor has only DVI input:
----

for the PS3: An HDMI to DVI cable (or adapter).

for the N64: the above cable/adapter plus component to HDMI converter

for the SNES: both of the above plus a component cable like this if you don't already have one.

u/jpwns93 · 2 pointsr/WindowsMR

Do you have DVI? Can get a DVI to HDMI adapter for your monitor.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Input-Output-Adapter-Cable/dp/B014I8UQJY

u/jamerst · 2 pointsr/Monitors

Use a HDMI cable to connect the GPU to the monitor, or use a cable/adapter like this and connect to DVI on the GPU and HDMI on the monitor.

u/Thx_And_Bye · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

HDMI to DVI will always be just a single DVI-Link as HDMI doesn't have enough pins to carry the data from DVI dual-link.

If you plan to adapt DVI to HDMI (or vice versa) I'd always recommend a complete cable instead of a short adapter. It puts less strain on the used ports and isn't really more expensive. They should work both ways as it's a passive adaption (just connecting pins).

u/Kiraisuki · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Acer V226HQL Full HD monitor over AmazonBasics HDMI-DVI Converter working perfectly. Can select all resolutions just fine.

u/tom-dickson · 2 pointsr/hometheater

DVI and HDMI are electrically compatible - you need an adapter or a cable. Neither is very rare.

u/_vogonpoetry_ · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/Poneydriver · 2 pointsr/buildapc

This for DVI port on your PC to you HDMI Port on old TV.

AmazonBasics CL2 Rated HDMI Input to VGA DVI Output Adapter Cable - 6 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8UQJY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6YS7CbGJPWQVJ


Or this to use a display port on your PC to an HDMI port that you can then use your spare HDMI cable to connect to your TV.

BENFEI DisplayPort to HDMI Adapter, Benfei DP Display Port to HDMI Converter Male to Female Gold-Plated Cord Compatible for Lenovo Dell HP and Other Brand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017Q8ZVWK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_H0S7CbBPD8K7P

The terms male and female relate to which side of the plug you are referring to. Males plug into females (reproductive biology). So the port that end plugs into is female, and the side of the cable that plugs into the port is the male end.

u/Kaylvanis · 2 pointsr/Monitors

Three questions:

  1. For some reason, I have this idea that VGA is better. Is this wrong?

  2. Can you really have two different output streams? One using VGA and one using HDMI and still have it work?

  3. How did you get $35? https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Input-Output-Adapter-Cable/dp/B014I8UQJY - seems pretty cheap, unless I'm looking at something else.
u/bad_fake_name · 2 pointsr/cableadvice
u/nwgat · 2 pointsr/buildapc

it uses multi-stream feature of displayport, a RX 550 might be a idea with a DP>HDMI adapter and DVI>HDMI cable

if your only using it for desktop work the rx 550 is way newer than 5450 and GT 710 and will do 4K HEVC/AVC video decoding and encoding etc so perfect for media

https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Radeon-Graphic-Cards-GV-RX550D5-2GD/dp/B06Y43NJ3D/ ($89)
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0C7QO8 ($20)
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Input-Output-Adapter-Cable/dp/B014I8UQJY ($6)

u/livevicarious · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

The only one that's really officially supported is this one

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZIPYPY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cheap and works with some 10' extension cables including this one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This gives you 20 feet. Done deal

u/Freeznips · 2 pointsr/oculus

These are the exact cables I used to extend both my rifts. Both are lossless quality; no noise, snow, nothing.

USB Extension

HDM Extension

Also in case you are interested, these are the cables I used to extend my sensor cables. Entire system works flawlessly. Some people have had to plug one or two of the sensors into a USB2.0 slot instead of 3.0 to get perfect tracked. I just split the 3.0's up between several different card. A good rule of thumb is two inputs per card. So i used the MOBO slots, the top panel slots, and my PCI-E USB slots to ensure each component was receiving sufficient power.

Hope this helps. Best of luck and enjoy (:

u/18hockey · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

uhhhh... at this price range:

mouse & keyboard

monitor

u/kiwiandapple · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

so we got £240 for a monitor, keyboard and mouse. I can work very well with this. I will give you a few options. Going from low end of the budget to the higher end. You have all kinds of options.

But first! Peripherals are all very hard to suggest, if we don't have enough information. So I picked the ones that I find will work in most cases.
But there are a lot of things we need to know before we can suggest the right setup. But anyway, here is the list. No I won't explain to much why I picked them. I did went for these because I think they will work for "most" people. But if you got the time to answer the questions, I will have a better idea if my suggestion will work for you.

u/LihnSoo · 2 pointsr/buildapc

CM Storm Devastator
is pretty good from my uses. Cheap and efficient.

u/adagio9 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Devastator-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B00DKXXAAQ

I had this keyboard when i first started pc gaming and it was great for me, comes with a mouse too. Not flat keys though.

u/ILostMyMojo_ · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

This is amazing. I was going to update it to include that the 700 was without the monitor so this works out. I just have a few questions about the build:

  1. Is it worth it to upgrade to the i5-6600 for $40 more? Would this make a big difference in terms of editing maybe or gaming?
  2. I was leaning towards the GTX 1060. I know it's high in demand right now, but would there be more availability in a month? But if I was able to get it, what's the price difference and is it worth it over the RX 480? Also which brand because there are a lot.
  3. For the monitor I was thinking the HP Pavilion 21.5-Inch IPS LED HDMI VGA Monitor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015WCV70W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JHsMxb3JVZAPX
    I'm not sure what the big differences are or if there are any. I think that the HP aesthetically looks nicer
  4. Is this a solid keyboard? For some reason the way it's designed, it's look really cheap and kind of over the top. My friend has a Cooler Master Devastator - LED Gaming Keyboard and Mouse Combo Bundle (Blue Edition) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DKXXAAQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AstMxbMHYQ6GA that he said he would sell to me for $10. Idk too much a out keyboards so as long as it looks simlle and works well, I'm happy.
  5. Do you think a wireless card is necessary? I'm not sure if I'll have access to Ethernet(probably will).
  6. My old gaming laptop has two 512GB hard drives. Would it be smart to snag one of them? Is it possible to attach it to this computer?

    EDIT: Aesthetically
u/DanNinetyFive · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You could get the coolermaster cm storm devastator gaming bundle, $50 for mouse and keyboard but you can probably find it cheaper somewhere. http://www.amazon.com/CM-Storm-Devastator-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B00DKXXAAQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397268264&sr=8-1&keywords=Cooler+master+cm+storm+bundle

u/VectorVictorious · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I was planning on spending $220 for mech keyboard and nice mouse when building but ended up buying the Cooler Master Storm Devastator keyboard/mouse set for $30.

The money I saved there allowed me to not cut corners on anything else while giving me ample time to consider if I really needed a top end keyboard while playing just fine with this one.

They come in red or blue LED and I bought mine from Amazon on sale for $30 but it's now $40 there. This link has it for $28.62 and I think you'd be hard pressed to find a better bang for buck. I'm no pro but it works just fine for me.

http://www.ncixus.com/products/?usaffiliateid=1000031504&sku=85648&vpn=SGB-3010-KKMF1-US&manufacture=COOLERMASTER

Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DKXXAAQ/?tag=pcpapi-20

u/Aviyara · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

The CM Storm Devastator is a mouse/keyboard combo, backlit, and on sale now for under $30.

u/1point5volts · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I have this keyboard/mouse combo: http://www.amazon.com/CM-Storm-Devastator-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B00DKXXAAQ/
The keyboard is nice. can also come in green or red if you want. the mouse died on me once, but I opened it up to look for any faults, didnt see anything wrong, closed it, and it has been magically working since.


You don't necessarily have to upgrade the motherboard. socket 775 processors are dirt cheap now: http://www.amazon.com/Intel-E8400-3-0GHz-Processor-EU80570PJ0806M/dp/B0019NKGR4/


But then again it looks like you'll have to stick with it for a few years cause I dont remember anything at all from when I was 3. I know I got a gameboy color for my 4th birthday bundled with pokemon yellow. The party was at mcdonalds too. fun times

u/BLUEQK · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Devastator-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B00DKXXAAQ

Cooler master devastator. The keyboard is the best membrane keyboard I've used, and the mouse is relatively decent too.

u/Darchseraph · 2 pointsr/changemyview

Okay, here are two budget keyboard + mouse combos that probably exceed standard consumer hardware in performance even if they are a little dodgy compared to better brands:

http://www.amazon.com/CM-Storm-Devastator-Keyboard-Edition/dp/B00DKXXAAQ

http://www.amazon.com/eSPORTS-COMMANDER-Ilumination-Keyboard-KB-CMC-PLBLUS-01/dp/B00VEU6LYE

They each cost around $30 which is $10-20 less than the cost of a controller (yes I'm aware that you don't need a 2nd one but seriously, who owns a console and doesn't have at least 2 controllers?)

u/ipt_striker · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Looking at a gaming mouse. I bought the CM Storm Devastator keyboard & mouse set a while ago. I'm wondering how much better is something like a Logitech G502?

I know the G502 is one of the best (if not the best) on the market, but I'm just wondering how much better it is than what I have and is it worth spending $70 on it when I already have a mouse.

u/mobilereddituser · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If you need a mouse as well, the CM Storm Devastator combo on amazon is pretty good for the price.

Link

u/AhNeem · 2 pointsr/secretsanta
u/pureparadise · 2 pointsr/buildapc

nice, would you like to answer some more questions?
i have a keyboard and mouse right now but would this be a good budget combo? im going for a black and blue vibe for my build

u/mhero18 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

congrats on the setup completion! The curvature on that mouse is sexyyy. good luck streaming!

I would be interested in the Xsplit license! I believe mine is set to expire some time this year, a little extra extension would be nice. :)

My current keyboard/mouse setup is the Cooler Master Devastator combo pack, blue. I got it when i built my PC last year and had a budget to stick to, so just got a combo. It definitely works fine and the lights are cool! blue is my favorite color too. im content with it, but of course could always be better.

I would definitely love to eventually upgrade. I have my eyes set on the Razer BlackWidow Chroma Stealth Silent RGB keyboard and the Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum mouse. so expensive. eventually, eventually. T___T

u/TheBoomChucker · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

Oh. Sorry mate. It's really not feasible to get a decent gaming rig for less, so this is gonna be a bit over budget. For the monitor, I'd go with this one: http://www.amazon.com/BenQ-GW2255-21-5-Inch-LED-lit-Monitor/dp/B00AX9Z6MU

For the keyboard/mouse, you can't beat this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DKXXAAQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1451177590&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=Cooler+master+Devastator&dpPl=1&dpID=41rw%2BHIOJoL&ref=plSrch

u/My_Post_Is_On_Topic · 2 pointsr/pcgaming

If you're on a budget like I was, Coolermaster peripherals are amazing. I recently upgraded from a really sketchy $20 chinese kb/m set to the $30 CM Storm Devastator kb/m combo, it's fantastic. I love how the keys are raised, almost like a mechanical style. And the backlighting on such an inexpensive set is impressive. I could never really justify myself spending hundreds of dollars on peripherals so I definitely appreciate CM's offering.

u/FallenTF · 2 pointsr/GameDeals

How is this a deal when you can get a better product cheaper on Amazon for regular price from a reputable company (iRocks vs Cooler Master)?

www.amazon.com/CM-Storm-Devastator-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B00DKXXAAQ/

u/AghastFormula2 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

try this one

u/Kowbell · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Model number this

u/Alpr101 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Slightly over your budget (why only $20?) but I use this coolmaster keyboard that I paid $29.16 for (after tax) back in 2016. Some family members liked it so much they bought their own as well.

u/horizontalcracker · 2 pointsr/leagueoflegends
u/trompiston · 2 pointsr/keyboards

I found a similar keyboard on Amazon made by HP and I used that to base measurements off of. I do not know what you use your computer for but unfortunately most backlit keyboards are geared to gamers. I've never used any of these keyboards but they are from respected manufactures. If I were you I'd read through a couple reviews on each to get a better understanding of what to expect from the keyboard.

Cooler Master Storm Devastator w/ mouse $29.99

This one is .2" longer, .4" narrower, .4" taller than your current keyboard


Corsair Raptor k30 $39.99

This one is .9" longer, .9" wider, .4" taller.


If you were to up your budget $10.


SteelSeries Apex Raw $49.99

2.97" longer, 2.5" wider, 1.05" taller.

I have used this one and I can say that I didn't care for the keys but I do use a mechanical board so take that with a grain of salt.


If you were to up your budget $25-30. (At this point it might be better to start looking at low end mechanicals.)


Corsair Raptor k40 $59.99

1.8" longer, 2.5" wider, .8" taller

Logitech Illuminated Ultrathin $59.99

I don't think the dimensions for this one are right because Amazon says it's 3 inches tall but it's sold as an ultrathin keyboard?

Microsoft SideWinder x4 $68.80

2.1" longer, 2.4" wider, 1.4" taller




u/TheMarknessROCK · 2 pointsr/oculus

Good old Amazon Basic's 4 port powered USB w/ an Apple USB-C to USB adapter.

https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484871884&sr=8-2&keywords=amazon+basic+4+port+usb+hub

One I had from before using a Surface Pro Hackintosh, works great for the Oculus with 3 sensors. All the USB goes into that Rift, and 3 sensors. Long as I keep the 3rd sensor on USB2.0 using the monoprice cable I get no tracking issues related to sensor hookups.

Yeah I love the setup, I had a 2015 Macbook Pro which ran great for work / OSX needs. It made sense to dump the gaming laptop Razer and consolidate the Macbook and Razer into the new one. eGPU made that possible, TB3 rocks speed wise the hit isn't terrible long as you use an external monitor. Works great here.

u/devil_yager · 2 pointsr/Surface

Good thing because the one the other poster suggested wouldn't have worked for a Surface Pro device - that one is specific to the Surface 3 (non-Pro).

As far as USB hubs go, the problem with wanting to run an external drive via a USB hub is that the hub itself typically has to be powered, reducing its portability. It might be easier for you to use a Bluetooth-enabled mouse like Logitech MX Anywhere or Surface Arc Mouse or Razer Artheris - basically any wireless mouse that doesn't depend on a dongle to work.

If portability doesn't matter to you, then maybe AmazonBasics 4 Port Hub would work. It's cheap, powered and has tons of positive reviews.

u/technofiend · 2 pointsr/nexus6

With a direct connection via on-the-go cable (USB Audio Player Pro) says a device is attached but that the phone can't drive enough power through the port. According to the JDS Labs (blog) the solution is to use a powered hub. I've tried two different powered hubs including a brand new (Amazon Basics) with a 2.5 Amp power supply, which should be more than enough, but still get no audio from the amp.

I've also tried using (SoundAbout) to force Google Play Music to route through the USB DAC. Doesn't work in host or client mode. Anyone have this working and if so what hardware did you use to bridge from the Nexus 6 to your amp?


u/twoElectricBoogaloo · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Best Buy, Fry's, Microcenter, Walmart would all sell powered USB hubs. I use a few of these around my house. Cheap, effective, safe.

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464915641&sr=8-1&keywords=amazonbasics+usb+hub

u/N0rthernWind · 2 pointsr/buildmeapc

Cant you just add a USB hub to the back? Something like this. That is likely the cheapest option.

u/Scotsmania · 2 pointsr/PS4
u/onliandone · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Describe a bit more about the unit you want. Is it supposed to be a PC of its own? In that case one would get an ITX case that fits three 5.25" drives, like https://www.amazon.com/iStarUSA-S-35-Compact-5-25-Inch-mini-ITX/dp/B00DJ7T3YK. If you want something that connects to other PCs I'd glue three external drives together and just use USB. And yes, connecting those to an USB hub is a good idea (maybe an USB 3.1 Gen 2 hub to avoid any bandwidth issues).

If you have to use the internal drives without a PC of their own I'd get three of https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ + a powered USB 3.0 hub like https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-USB-Power-Adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80/.

But I haven't build something like that yet. When I still used optical disk writers there was always the issue of having to keep the system calm to not produce write errors. I'm not 100% certain having three connected to a hub won't be without issues - but it's not too expensive to try out.

u/faz712 · 2 pointsr/Surface

you may or may not need a powered usb hub depending on the type and number of things you want to use

u/not-an-AI · 2 pointsr/PS4

USB devices like a headset or a controller use power from the device they are connected to. As for a USB hub there are two types: Those getting power from PS4/PC and those having a small separate power supply.

The important part is that power is limited on a USB hub without power supply to what you get from one USB port of the PS4. It might not be enough for headset plus controller and thus one of them might not work.

With power supply multiple (or even all) connected devices can use the maximum power allowed for USB.

An example for a USB3 hub with power supply/AC adapter is this one:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80

If I were looking for one that's what I would get for my PS4.

u/ACM_ONE · 2 pointsr/PS4

AmazonBasics 4 Port USB to USB 3.0 Hub with 5V/2.5A power adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zgE4CbC4ERKGD


Plug your hub into port 1 on PS4. Plug ext. hard drive into port 2 on PS4. Anything else goes into the hub (charging cables, headset usb, etc..)

u/itwasonlyjustadream · 2 pointsr/PlaystationClassic

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80

Is this good to buy? And can I still use the usb cables the PS Classic gave us to connect it to the hub?

u/rtechie1 · 2 pointsr/gadgets

Buy a 4 port KVM like this one, attach a 4 port USB hub to the input, and then attach your 3 USB devices to the hub. You might need to buy a powered hub instead.

u/Mistral-Fien · 2 pointsr/thinkpad
u/MrMunchkin · 2 pointsr/techsupport
  1. You should download the Windows Assessment and Deployment 8.1 (ADK 8.1)

  2. Read the Windows ADK Quickstart

  3. Create a WinPE boot disk with "Image capturing and services" feature installed (specificially for the DISM utility)

  4. Get a USB 3.0 powered hub because the Surface 3 has a low-powered USB port

  5. Use DISM to capture your existing SSD and you can apply it to any other disk you want
u/tubeguy · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Looks like it doesn't actually come with the adapter, which is not uncommon. This one would be better as it does come with the wall-wart supply.

u/ton2010 · 2 pointsr/PS4

While true in theory, for my own use it doesn't apply because I don't need it for anything other than this specific usage. On top of that, I like things to be neat, and hiding the USB hub wouldn't work too well in my setup, much less having the extra power plug/wire to deal with.

It's just a small annoyance and I'll probably end up getting it anyway, but I've definitely been finding it to be one of the few gripes I have with the PS4 (#1 being no support for the official Bluetooth headset from PS3, despite the wireless chip in the PS4 having the ability to function exactly the same as its predecessor).

u/Dora_De_Destroya · 2 pointsr/Rockband

I use this for mics and works great

USB HUB

u/Kiriesh · 2 pointsr/applehelp

While I don't have specific experience with that writer, generally if an external device has 2 usb ports (like usb cd drives or usb external hard drives) 1 is for data and 1 is for power. You should be fine using something like a powered usb hub.

u/demonlag · 2 pointsr/Steam

Probably closer to 10 to 15 bucks for a powered usb hub. A non powered hub powers itself and all attached devices using the power from the USB port on the PC. A powered hub has a dedicated power input and provides its own power for itself and all attached devices.

An Xbox 360 wired controller looks to be listed as around .48A, and a standard USB2 port is usually rated for .5A total draw. USB 3 I believe is .9A, so an non powered hub may not get you four working controllers.

Something like this should be a safe choice for you:
AmazonBasics 4 Port USB 3.0 Hub with 5V/2.5A power adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_BK1nybA3V46AS

u/nukedorbit · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

3x 4-way USB hubs, powered.

Edit: Actually, there is a 10 port model. I would just use that, and the 5 or 6 others on my case/motherboard would suffice.

u/poorscribbler · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Lots of good suggestions here. Just make sure you also get him a powered USB hub. It can't handle having more than two devices hooked up to it. I bought this one:Amazon Basics USB 3.0 Powered USB Hub It works great, and it gives the ability to hook quite a few more devices to the B+ model.

u/adio_v2 · 2 pointsr/WindowsMR

I was nervous reading about issues with extending the cables of my O+ that I had just got since my pc is behind a wall in another room. I got mine to work first try by going:

PC 3.0 USB <- Male- USB 3.0 10 Feet -Female-> <- Male USB Powered Hub Female-> <-O+ USB

GPU HDMI <- Male HDMI 2.0 10 Feet Male -><-Female HDMI Coupler Female -><-O+ HDMI

​

I got the usb 3.0 Male/Female cable from a local store. The rest from amazon. The usb hub is plugged in with 5V power supply and the extension cord HAD to be plugged into the hardwired male cable on the hub. It does not work by plugging the extension and odyssey into the 4 hub slots.

​

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00GG57JO8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01GDZHOI6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00DQFGH80/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/baby-alligators · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Depending on the cost of a fourth, the best option could be to buy a powered USB hub as you mention. This one seems like it could be decent. The only inconvenience is that you need access to a power supply and it is a laptop (meant to be portable). I suppose with equipment etc. this wouldn't be a huge problem though. I use a similar hub (forget the name, I can check for you later if you're interested) and it works fine; they are very much plug-and-play items.

u/GlarnCurious · 2 pointsr/techsupport

You need a USB HUB.

Amazon have their own brand that is very well built.
There are many cheaper alternatives but you run the risk of not meeting electronic safety regulations which could result in:

A) A house fire.
B) Fried USB ports.

Link to the hub

Source: USB Hub owner

u/ShowerBeer- · 2 pointsr/iphone

no... that is a good thing (i have one), and it will charge multiple devices, but OP wanted it to be able to sync them all to his computer too. a simple powered usb hub like this would do it:

http://amzn.com/B00DQFGH80

note that it has both a power adapter and an "upstream" usb connecting it to the pc. if you have only usb, it probably won't charge all devices full speed. if you have only power, it obviously won't connect the devices to the computer.

u/PlaidPCAK · 2 pointsr/CrazyIdeas

Sabrent 4-Port USB 3.0 Hub with Individual Power Switches and LEDs (HB-UM43) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FnLGAb9PV01VV

u/CambodianBreast_Milk · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales
u/cha0ss0ldier · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Sabrent 4-Port USB 3.0 Hub with Individual Power Switches and LEDs (HB-UM43) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JQ.iDbRFJG58E

I use 2 of those.

u/qwrdu · 2 pointsr/buildapc

How would you vocalise the difference between this and this? Would you say the latter is a hub with the capabilities with a switch?

Edit: The second item calls itself a "Switcher Box Hub" to state the difference.

u/CrazyCoco · 2 pointsr/PUBATTLEGROUNDS

Wow okay, so the problem is this USB port extender.

If my headset cable is connected to that and I plug it into my PC, I get the massive stuttering seen above UNTIL I turn off my PC. I'm going to try to see if anything plugged in there wrecks my PC, or if it is just the headset cable.

u/Riktarr · 2 pointsr/LogitechG

One is a usb 3 and the other is usb 2 (for compatibility issues)

Sabrent 4-Port USB 3.0 Hub with Individual LED Power Switches (HB-UM43) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eF2IDbXEHVYW8

u/Kekeripo · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

There are USB hubs with switches to deactivate the specific port assigned to it. Dirt cheap but should help you.

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UM43/dp/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=usb+hub+with+switch&qid=1568980604&sr=8-3

u/jpk17041 · 2 pointsr/computers

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_M8e7Bb8RAAQ3H

This will do the trick. Actually, it's sort of overkill. But it'll work

u/nickmo9 · 2 pointsr/DataHoarder

Ok so I think I'm narrowing some things down. Per /u/Doc_E_Makura I ran CrystalDiskInfo on each drive and they read as good with no abnormalities.

I then ran the Windows disk error check as described and also found no errors (well, the new drive did have errors from the bad files copied over from the previous attempts, but I formatted and it is error free now).

I then opened the MiniTool Partition Wizard and started to try and figure out the method for imaging the drive over. I noticed that it kept every few seconds popping up a dialogue box saying something to the effect of "updating partition drives" (can't remember exact phrase). But it was happening so frequently I got the impression of a bad connection in some sense.

I then opened an explorer window just to see if I could open the drives, and I started getting an error of "Power surge on the USB port. Unknown USB Device needs more power than the port can supply." This error popped up multiple times then the drives disappeared. This surface pro only has one USB port, so I bought this USB adapter which was only $10. Could this be causing the issues? If so, what's the best alternative for a higher quality USB adapter that can power two external HDs?

The USB power surge error disabled the USB port, and the drives wouldn't show up after when plugging them in individually until I restarted.

Thanks so far for the advice, hopefully I can get this figured out.

u/tboland1 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

A splitter isn't what you want. You want a USB Hub. No sense at all getting a USB 2 hub. If you are going to be using heavy duty stuff (multiple hard drives, for instance) or want to charge things at fast charge rate, get a powered hub.

u/OneTrueAsian · 2 pointsr/AskTechnology

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UM43/dp/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?
I use this one, it has switches so I can turn the ones I want on and the others off. I haven’t had any issues. Really good reviews.

u/3wooki3 · 2 pointsr/RetroPie

I haven't used it but this might help:

https://github.com/meleu/RetroPie-joystick-selection

EDIT

You might be able to hack together a hardware solution with something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J4H8ZCC OR

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UM43/dp/B00JX1ZS5O

u/NewPath57 · 2 pointsr/EliteDangerous

Stuff like this happening is the reason I picked up a couple of USB hubs with individual switches. Any time something doesn't work right I can reset it, or turn off other controllers to trouble shoot it nice and easy.

u/aesens · 2 pointsr/simracing

I have the Sabrent 4-Port USB 3.0 Hub with Individual LED Power Switches ($6 on Amazon using code 360OFFUM43) that I discovered from this post over on /r/buildapcsales. I have the two Rift sensors connected to it, but I have my headset connected to my Clevo's HDMI port and one of it's four USB 3.0 ports. When my wheel (T300RS GT), shifter (TH8A), and wireless mouse dongle are connected to the laptop USB ports, that leaves one open port on the hub for my cell phone charging cable, and of course when I'm using the wheel, I don't use the game controller, so I keep that switched off.

My laptop also has a USB type-C USB 3.1/Thunderbolt combo port, and I was going to get a hub that connects via Thunderbolt with 4 USB 3.1 ports @ 10gbps (around $40), but I couldn't pass up on that $6 deal, and it works perfectly fine for all that I use it for.

Regarding the better battery life on the touch controllers - I imagine it would save on battery life if you switch off the sensor ports on the hub when not in use.

u/daniel1z · 2 pointsr/Romania

Gandim la fel, mi l-am comandat pe asta acum cateva zile, trebuie sa ajunga luni.
Si mai am hubul asta ce-i conectat la priza.

u/spencerawr · 2 pointsr/starcraft_strategy

It should make no major difference. Working on things like macro will have more of an overall effect on your play then getting a new mouse will.

That said, I was playing with a crappy Targus bluetooth mouse for a long time and it was inaccurate, would jump, and lose connection during games. I picked up a Logitech G400 and it's been great. And while I did more up the ladder more after getting it, I don't attribute my success to a mouse, but rather improved macro.

u/zombicidalscientist · 2 pointsr/pcgaming

A few things to note:

  • The GPU is the 1GB version of the GT 650M
  • There are only 3 USB ports one of which is USB 2.0 - consider whether or not 3 will be enough and accessorize accordingly.
  • This computer doesn't come with an OS by default.
  • DON'T BUY OFFICE BUNDLED WITH THIS COMPUTER - You can get Office University 2010 right from Microsoft for $85. It's exactly the same as the $350 Office Professional 2010 that you can bundle with that laptop.
  • Comparison shop for the accessories that you can bundle with this laptop - some of them seem overpriced. For example, you can get that Logitech G400 for half of the price they're offering. You can't even find the Saitek Eclipse II anymore and you can get much better keyboards for $97 (not that the Eclipse II is bad but Newegg's last price for that keyboard was $65). For example, $97 will get you a good mechanical keyboard.

    I know none of that is really what you asked for but it's all stuff I wish knew before I bought a laptop for college.

    In all honesty if I could go back and give myself a piece of college computer advice it would be to avoid spending too much money on a gaming laptop and to get a netbook instead. Granted, my 2006 MacBook Pro is still working but it wasn't ever the gaming PC I'd hoped it would be.

    The portability was nice but the inability to upgrade my computer as tech advanced put me at a disadvantage midway through my college career. After a couple years I started to lag behind the current technical requirements and was unable to play the newer games that I wanted to play. With a laptop you're almost forced to wait it out simply to justify the initial cost. You either replace the laptop completely or tolerate slowly degrading performance to save money. There's no way to spend $200-300 on a new GPU if you need it (or if you just want to upgrade and have the cash to spare).

    It also became a bit of a hassle simply because part of me really wanted to treat the laptop as if it were a desktop and leave it on the desk. I had speakers, a mouse, and a USB hub all set up but plugging in and unplugging everything at least a few times a day to move my laptop got to be a pain in the ass over the years. This might not be an issue for you but it definitely bugged me at the time.

    In 2012 I'd personally get an inexpensive netbook (you can get one for $200-300) and spend the rest of my budget building a PC (head to /r/buildapc if you want to go that route).


u/chineseman26 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Cases are super subjective, that one will do fine if you like the look of it. It's an ATX case though, so I think you should get an full ATX motherboard. ATX motherboards have more slots, usually cheaper, and may be higher quality but that's a crapshoot. For the motherboard get this MSI one. It's a little more expensive than the one you have but that's because the one you had a cheaper business chipset. The different in features between the B85 you had and the H87
I'm recommending out is better SATA and USB3 support. Also better power distribution for your CPU the benefits of which isn't super important.

If you were to get a SSD, you would install windows on it and a few games. All of the other stuff will go to your harddrive. There's a SSD optimization guide on the sidebar, it was written for Windows 7 but it should be pretty much the same for 8. If you do end up getting one this Sandisk Extreme is pretty good. You can also look at Samsung's 840 series they're good as well.


Wireless depends on several things, whether you could snake a cable through the house, what kind of router you have (802.11n or above?), and what kind of games you'll be playing (get wired for twitch shooters or MOBA's). The GTX770 is actually a pretty significant improvement over the GTX760, look at benchmarks and determine if you think it's worth it for the games you play. The main thing to look for is that whether it pushes the FPS to over 60.

As for the keyboard. There's mechanical and nonmechanical keyboards. Mechanical keyboards are the clicky type that old IBM keyboards (I dont' know how old you are) were. They feel more solid and are loved by games for their responsiveness. I have a Corsair Vengeance k70 that I love. It's expensive though, there's also the cooler master one. This is a whole another can of worms, there's also different switch types. /r/MechanicalKeyboards can help you there. For the mouse I can safely recommend the Logitech G400 but for MMO's you might want more keys so there's always the G600 by logitech or the Razer Naga. I'm personally not a big fan of Razer's stuff I think they're way too flashy and apparently their build quality has gone down over the years as well. You'll have to do some research on your own there.

u/abby89 · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon
  1. Bra--It's a U-shaped plunge, which I think would work best. Plus I love Maidenform!

  2. I'm thinking you need some sexy platform heels for this dress. These are cute, and super cheap!

  3. I love tights with backseams! Here's a pair that's a bit bolder. This pair has a really pronounced backseam, which I love.

  4. These are adorable. Love the blue.

  5. Not sure what to do for this one. I like... vibrators?? ha ha

  6. Get him a nice mouse! I bought my husband this one for Christmas and he's using it right now :D This one is a bit spendy at $50, but he loves it.

    Anniversary story -- it's happening right now :) My husband has never been awesome at gifts, and he's always felt really bad about it. Sometimes he just wouldn't get me anything at all, or say he would later and then never do it... anyway, he overheard me talking to some friends about how it kind of makes me sad, and he's been stepping up since the first of this month. Our anniversary is on the 14th, and i've been getting little gifts every day with a number countdown on each one :)
u/saeraphas · 2 pointsr/sysadmin

For a year or so after college, between work at an MSP and coming home to an empty apartment and a very enthusiastic WoW habit, I was spending 17 hours a day in front of a computer. I started experiencing wrist pain that was so bad I couldn't drive my car anymore. I switched to a more ergonomic keyboard/mouse setup and my wrist pain disappeared within a few of weeks.

I've long since left the MSP and WoW, but I've kept the keyboard and mouse, and recommended the same pair to many coworkers.

Microsoft Natural 4000 Ergonomic Keyboard

Logitech G400 Mouse

I also make liberal use of Allsop Metal Art Monitor Risers and clamp-on monitor arms - in my opinion, monitor position is just as important as proper keyboard and mouse ergonomics because it affects back, shoulders, neck, and eye strain too.

EDIT:

In the past, I've had clients and management balk at the price tags on ergonomic hardware. They'll argue something like "I can go to Wal-Mart and buy a new mouse for fifteen dollars. Why should I spend four times that much on a video gaming mouse?" because they don't understand the value that ergonomic hardware actually provides in a workplace.

  1. Users who are comfortable in their workspaces can be more productive. It's tough to measure this one, because it's lots of little pieces that add up. From personal experience, though, I don't need to take as many breaks now as I did before I moved my monitors to a comfortable elevation, because my eyes and neck don't get fatigued as easily.

  2. Users who have a workspace that fits them are more likely to be happy in their jobs and are more likely to stay in their jobs longer. Even in my current sysadmin role, I still do a lot of deskside support, and I get to observe people in their workspaces doing all kinds of uncomfortable things, because they don't know that it can be any different. For example, I have a user whose workload is primarily oriented towards data entry and scheduling. She should have been issued a desktop or thin client, but since she occasionally needs to record meeting minutes in a conference room, the previous tech staff had issued her a 14" laptop. So every day she'd hunch over her desk and squint to see the screen. I installed a 24" monitor, a slightly more ergonomic keyboard and an ergonomic mouse while she was out at lunch. When I came in the next day, I had a handwritten thankyou card under my office door and a plate of homemade cookies in my mailbox, and so did the CFO and CEO. She was awestruck that we'd go out of our way to spend a little money on making her more comfortable. Total pricetag for the company? $200.

  3. New hardware is cheap. New staff are expensive. If I were to completely refit an existing staff's work area with a new monitor on an adjustable arm, ergonomic keyboard and mouse, and adjustable lumbar chair, it would cost the company less than $800, including my time. If we have to replace a staff, they have to go through a two-week paid training before they start doing any work, and it's some weeks after that before they are productive at the same level of the staff they replaced. The cost to the company during that time is thousands of dollars.

  4. Worker's compensation claims are expensive, even if the company doesn't have to pay. Because lawyers.
u/Rithe · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Mine lasted many years too but eventually failed. The G400 is the spiritual successor and is the one I bought. I have tried many other mice and prefer that style. I would definitely recommend

There is also the G400S which I think just looks different but I didn't research it. There is the G500 but I owned this one for awhile and did not like the texture on it.

There are other brands but I'm a huge fan of this style so while I've tried others, I always come back

u/Red_Spectrum · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Good choice going with the unlocked i5-4670. I went with the locked one and have been regretting it.

For mouse I have a logitech g400 (http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Optical-Gaming-High-Precision-910-002277/dp/B0055QZ216) and I love it. It seems to have a good reputation within the gaming community.

The keyboard I went with is an "i-rocks". It looks nice and works well enough as a keyboard, a little small though.

I wouldn't necessarily recommend the keyboard (though I don't regret it), but I would recommend the mouse.

u/architeky · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Everything looks good to me except possibles the heat spreaders of the ram getting in the way of the fan and CPU heat sink im not quite sure how possible this would be. However for the mouse I would recommend the g400 http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Optical-Gaming-High-Precision-910-002277/dp/B0055QZ216 great for the price with high dpi and very comfortable

u/FiiZzioN · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I have the Logitech G400 and I love it. It has a nice set of customizable buttons and decent DPI range. I also have to say it's the most comfortable mouse I've ever had. Seems to be decent for most mouse grips as well, or at least for me anyway.

u/j1xwnbsr · 2 pointsr/DealsReddit

Refurb; the Amazon & Bestbuy offerings are new.

u/blacklabel8829 · 2 pointsr/buildapc
u/Atello · 2 pointsr/PS4

If you don't mind me asking, how rough are you with your headsets? Because I still have my Gold Wireless headset (been almost a year now) and despite one of the hinges popping (my fault, I knocked them off the table, fixed with some duct-tape and zip-ties and has been fine since) they have been great to me. I haven't noticed any deterioration or build failure and I'm not exactly kind to them.


edit: To actually answer your question, I've used the following headsets on my PS4 with no issues:
http://www.amazon.com/Plantronics-GameCom-780-Headset-Surround/dp/B00B1KJK22 (works in stereo only)
http://www.amazon.com/AudioMX-Headset-Surround-Over-Ear-Headphones/dp/B01C81OQEY

u/BLToaster · 2 pointsr/GlobalOffensive

There really isn't a specific "best" headset for you. In the end it all comes down to personal preference on comfort, sound, etc. But that all comes with having multiple headsets of different brands.

I've been through a decent amount and currently have the GameCom 780. I've had it for a good while and have been enjoying it with very little quips about it.

u/Tidiliwomp · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Based on the research I have done I would say that there are 3 top contenders:

Plantronics GameCom 780

SteelSeries Siberia V2 Full-Size

HyperX Cloud


There are a lot of people that would be unhappy to see that list without at least honorable mention to the Corsair Vengeance 1500 and the Logitech G430 so there is plenty to choose from

u/TimeTravellerSmith · 2 pointsr/buildapc
  1. Preference. I'd much rather get a nice stereo headset over a virtual surround one.

  2. True is always going to be better, and depending on your preference to the previous question it might not be required at all over stereo.

  3. See 1. I think that it's a really personal preference. It might be useful for FPS games where that directional sound is useful, so if you don't play a lot of that then it's not worth it.

    IMO, if you have the chance try to find some to try out. See if you like surround over stereo.

    For reference, right now I have a set of Plantronics 780s and AT M50Xs. The Plantronics have virtual surround which some people seem to really like but I think it's gimmicky. It sounds good during the action, but then sounds terrible during cut-scenes. Most of the time I just leave it off. Then as far as stereo sound goes my M50s sound so much better overall, but a little light on the bass for action games.

    If you want an all in one solution, the 780s are excellent if all you do is game. If you want a stereo set and don't mind not having an attached mic and listen to a lot of music or movies along with gaming then I think the M50s are the better choice. (Note: I own the M50x linked above, which is the exact same as the M50 (no X) but the X's have a detachable cord and come with a coiled cord and both a long and short straight cord...so they're a bit more expensive.
u/lankytwats · 2 pointsr/DotA2

http://www.amazon.com/Plantronics-GameCom-780-Surround-Headset/dp/B00B1KJK22

I've been using the GamesCom 780 for a few years now. I actually bought 3 more sets just to ensure I'll have more if mine breaks (and after 2 years, it still hasn't). The microphone is fantastic, the sound is great, and it's relatively cheap.

u/thundershows · 2 pointsr/GGLoL

Plantronics headsets are pretty good, and this one's on sale for 40 if you're willing to spend that much.

u/ReeferGladness · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

If you're in the market for a gaming headset I only have good things to say about this one

http://www.amazon.com/Plantronics-GameCom-780-Surround-Headset/dp/B00B1KJK22

I have owned it for several months and the sound is crisp and the virtual surround sound is dope.

u/Revoker · 2 pointsr/battlestations

Plantronics GameCom 780 They are really nice, unless you stretch the cable too much and snap the head-band. These are basically a much stronger headset compared to the shittier 777 which i would not suggest getting the 777.

EDIT: forgot to say since mine are broken i am now looking to get a Audio Technica 2020 Microphone with Sennheiser HD 518

u/Stole_My_Banana · 2 pointsr/wow

http://www.amazon.com/Plantronics-GameCom-780-Headset-Surround/dp/B00B1KJK22

This is the headset the guys over at /r/headphones will suggest. It often goes on sale for a out $30.

Personally I recommend getting a solid set of cans and tossing an antlion modmic on the side of them.

u/walrus4lyfe · 2 pointsr/hardwareswap
u/jonairz · 2 pointsr/OutreachHPG

Plantronics GameCom 780 Gaming Headset with Surround Sound - USB Compatible with PC
http://www.amazon.com/Plantronics-GameCom-780-Headset-Surround/dp/B00B1KJK22
I love this headset, it's super comfy and the mic registers really well.

u/FlintlockFreedom · 2 pointsr/AskGames

I've got glasses and have been comfortable with my Gamescom 780 for the last 4 months.

u/baltes · 2 pointsr/gaming

well then glad I copied the post before I deleted it, here it is:

http://imgur.com/eGoM2TW

well shit...i've copied since then
ok then right now i've got the Plantronics Gamescom 307. It's lasted me a year, much longer than any other headset. I am about to invest in the Plantronics Gamescom 780. I have several friends who have got the 780 and they all love it, they say the sound is great, they sound great, they say it's sturdy as hell and it definitely looks sturdy as hell. It's cheapest through Amazon and Walmarts website, I'll link it at the end of this post.

I gave up on Turtle Beach headsets because they seemed to break so easily with me. I had one earpiece randomly break off of the headband while the headset was on my head, I was just sitting at my PC! Not worth the money in my opinion/experience.

http://www.amazon.com/Plantronics-GameCom-780-Surround-Headset/dp/B00B1KJK22/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1369710514&sr=1-1&keywords=gamescom+780

u/deafestbeats · 2 pointsr/tifu

Here's my suggestion, the Plantronics Gamescom 780, It's what I own and I loooove it. It's last me about 2 years now. My previous headset was a Turtle Beach and it last about 6 months.

u/OriginalAmbishion · 2 pointsr/gaming

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B1KJK22?redirect=true&ref_=s9_cartx_gw_g147_i1_r

One of the best headsets I have had, if you can find it in your country.

u/LordSkippy · 2 pointsr/OutreachHPG

I have these.

I got them mostly because they're over the ear (earbuds hurt after 30 minutes or so) and USB (only one plug). I typically have the game's main audio through the speakers and VoIP through the headset.

u/mtojay · 2 pointsr/oculus

i am using an evga gtx 980 with this cable:

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B013ICN940/ref=pe_386171_51767411_TE_dp_1

as a usb extension i use this cable:
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=pe_386171_51767411_TE_dp_2

this combination never dropped out on me or gave me any problems. having a longer cable makes the experience way better.

u/flawlesssin · 2 pointsr/oculus

Because it won't work. You have to have an HDMI repeater, which generally costs $10-15. They also have cable sleeving on them which is about $7-8.

I was looking into making one but for everything you see it's will cost about $35-40 for a 10' extension plus having to deal with sleeving cables. I don't think $20 extra is too bad a deal to have everything assembled and sent to your door. Especially if you hate cable sleeving like me.

You could always just use cable ties and it'd make it about $30 and a little easier, but if you don't like ugly cables the sleeving is the way to go.

For anyone wondering here's my list of items needed to make one (please note I have not personally tested any of these cables. These are recommendations from another user (I think OP)):

COWEEN HDMI Repeater 4K UHD HDMI Female to Female HDMI Amplifier 40' HDMI Extender Up to 40 Meters Lossless Transmission for Oculus Rift and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GHL72XS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Yc2GAbWY6JQX0

Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Vd2GAbJSS05X4

Monoprice Active Select Series High-Speed HDMI Cable 10 Feet with RedMere Technology Supports Ethernet, 3D, 4K and Audio Return - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008D5ETHE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gf2GAbFA4REA2

Techflex PTN0.50BK25 Flexo PET General Purpose 1/2-inch Braided Cable Sleeve, Black - 25 Foot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UHQNUU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Tf2GAbBTGYGTT

u/Dolby_Bypass · 2 pointsr/oculus

These were the ones I found recommended somewhere else that work fine in my setup no problem.

DisplayPort

USB

u/KelErudin · 2 pointsr/oculus

I just picked received my hdmi and usb 3 extender cables I ordered from amazon. both are 10 ft and I've had no issues with them so far. The two together are heaver than the single cable that Oculus makes, but since thats not the part hanging from my head, it shouldn't be an issue.

u/JesseBotwin · 2 pointsr/oculus

I just picked up a Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 pack the other day. This one is different than the Cable Matters cables that you tested. Wasn't terribly expensive either, I only paid $15 for 2 6-ft cables.

While I haven't tried plugging in the headset to the extension, it does work with the sensor just fine. I've been using my Rift since the cables arrived without any issues. I'll probably even use the second cable for the Touch sensor as well.

u/sdrdude · 2 pointsr/oculus
u/wontonoodle · 2 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

For anyone who bought the Lenovo Explorer MVR and need extension cable ideas. I have tested a HDMI and USB 3.0 cable that works.

AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI Extension Cable - 10 Feet https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01D5H91KE?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00C7SA21U?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

u/Sigmag · 2 pointsr/battlestations

Man, you have no idea how well it gets rid of that line of sight issue. I can lay prone and shoot! People were getting mad at me in multiplayer for it, lol.

It's super easy and will only cost you $40~ - here's what I used with mine:

u/clipstep · 2 pointsr/AmateurRoomPorn

Sorry I missed you earlier, here's what I used to get the tower discretely away in the corner and set up the triple monitor setup:

  • 10' 3.5mm to RCA cable (your extension cord may need to vary depending on what you use for speakers)

  • 4x usb M/F extension cord 10' (These are for plugging in my keyboard, mouse, phone connection, and a spare for usb sticks without having to plug into the tower)

  • 3x hdmi cable 10' (for plugging in the monitors, be sure to check your connection options as your graphics card / cards may need a different connection)

  • Vivo Triple Monitor Mount ( This is the trickiest part. For me to mount 3 heavy 27" BenQ monitors, this was a relatively inexpensive option. The stand is well built, and looks and moves well, but the weight of the monitors is difficult to mount without any sagging. Also, 27" is the absolute max size this mount will work for, and even then my viewing angles are a bit lacking. I would recommend Locktek's EXCELLENT mounts for neutralizing this issue, but they are vastly more expensive. Weight wont be an issue though. For me, the issue was not a big deal so I didn't splurge on a pricier mount.

  • Cable management sleeve (so that you can tuck away all those cords neatly)

    After that, you can have all peripherals at your fingertips and tuck the tower away into a corner. If your space is carpeted (and even if its not), be sure to keep the tower slightly elevated off the ground to allow for good air circulation.

    Definitely not dogma but that's what I've been using, and it works well thus far. Be sure not to skimp on the length of your cords, when your hiding it it will need to snake around a bit under the desk.

    Hope that helps!

u/noorbeast · 2 pointsr/oculus

No idea about Amazon.

You may need some USB extensions, depending on how you plan to run stuff, these are known to work:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00DMFFL2W?th=1

u/socomseal93 · 2 pointsr/WindowsMR

I’m using this on my HP headset and it works perfectly. Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_79NRAbYCMJXDN


u/andyjmcc · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

Thanks man, the only problem with that link is the 1.8m is not available however I found this link
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01LNAAEJ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LK40DbP9NAMR0
Which I will try in combination with this
www.amazon.de/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mN40Db044AD1B
And see how it goes :)

u/VarilRau · 2 pointsr/oculus

I have been using https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=psdc_464394_t2_B00HSS9KJY with my sensor, and it works flawlessly, i have an extra one as well, so i could try to double extend if you want me to test with that cable.

Edited: oops, wrong cable

u/kevynwight · 2 pointsr/Vive

> I'm gonna need extensions.

I had good luck with 10 foot for each via Amazon.

  • https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/
  • https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/

    --------------------------------------

    > Overall, setup was 9/10, but I'm giving it 5/10 because of the issues I had.

    Similar here. I can see how it's supposed to be very smooth and quick, and I think re-establishing setup (if I were portable) would be very quick, but I had a number of issues that prolonged things.

    --------------------------------------

    > This does require you to have a lit room

    This was disconcerting for me as well as preventing me from using VR sometimes since my VR area borders the den/living room and the breakfast nook and my wife often vetoed the turning up of all the lights (in the evenings).

    --------------------------------------

    > Controller tracking 8/10

    I'd only give them 6/10. It's highly dependent on tolerance, body type, play style, and which game / experience you're using. My thoughts: https://www.reddit.com/r/WindowsMR/comments/7qlhde/samsung_odyssey_owners_are_you_happy/dsq5nh5/

    --------------------------------------

    > You will notice some black smear

    I started noticing more of it as I dug back through my backlog of games and apps. The Quake II SteamVR environment, Allummette (the night scenes), and the large theater room in BigScreen are three places that had pretty awful black smear that I remember. In other places it was not noticeable though.

    --------------------------------------

    > Colors are also very vibrant

    I agree, I thought the color pop was excellent and fun in the Odyssey, and simply made me want to try a lot of different things to see what they looked like.

    --------------------------------------

    > I think it's a tad bigger at least for me

    Interesting, my buddy and I both thought his Vive with DAS and 6mm pad had the slight edge in terms of FOV, as well as amount of pupil swim, and there was something subtley not quite as impressive about either the binocular overlap or just the "closeness" of images in the Odyssey, but it was still very good and the great contrast and higher resolution made up for it.

    --------------------------------------

    > The forehead pad and back pad are nice and comfortable with most of the weight resting on the forehead and off of the nose/cheek area.

    Eventually that forehead pad really started to dig into my forehead. I had a couple sessions that gave me real pain. Here was my solution: https://imgur.com/a/a9lqJ

    --------------------------------------

    > The damn nose flaps.

    I totally agree! These would block about 70% of my nasal airflow! But there is an easy fix -- fold them back in behind the lenses. Works great, stays in place, and is easily reversible.

    --------------------------------------

    > They are comfortable and easy to position.

    I found them a bit hard to get a good seal with. The DAS seems more articulatable which helps get a better on-ear seal which gives it the potential for a bit more perceived bass and therefore a bit more balanced frequency response. But neither holds up against my Audio-Technica ATH-M50s. I'm hopeful the Vive Pro audio addresses that a little more.

    --------------------------------------

    > If you are looking for a portable VR experience with a laptop or like to travel and show others VR without having to set up lighthouses or cameras

    Yep, that is definitely the big benefit of the Odyssey. It can't be beat for that type of use case. It was kind of lost on me (no laptop, single permanent VR space at home), and I eventually decided due to the substandard controllers and controller tracking that it was worth more turned back into $486 so I returned it after 8 weeks due to Microsoft's very generous holiday return policy. I knew I'd miss it (certain aspects of it) and I do. If I were more into sims and had a driving setup it would have been a tougher call by far.

    I do hope they pull together a version with more cameras that can handle the controllers getting close to the cameras and operate in lower light. Best would be some way to give the controllers actual inside-out tracking of their own using their own cameras but that might require a prohibitively large amount of information sent over Bluetooth (BT 5.0?) to the CPU for the Machine Vision algorithm.
u/nestechs · 2 pointsr/Vive

I needed the exact same thing. This is what I went with from amazon. They work great. One is the set of the tripods and the other is the mini ball head you will need for each lighthouse with the tripod.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012FTXOW4/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WB02Z4/

I would also recommend extending the triple cable an extra 10 feet. You won't be able to keep the cable and HMD in the box after adding the cables, but it doesn't get tangled as easy and just works better when having other people try it for the first time.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FT9VW0O/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0008JHB14/

u/Bigmidge · 2 pointsr/oculus

I have a very similar setup for my Rift and I have had very few problems with it in the 6 months or so that I've had it. I will recommend that you take your time when doing the actual setup. I spent close to an hour finetuning the positioning of the sensors before I got them to track nearly perfect.

This is the USB extension cable that I've been using for both sensors. I have mine plugged into USB 2.0 ports on my MOBO and I've had zero issues thus far.

EDIT: I'll also note that I have both sensors mounted upside down on the celing. I just used the stand that they came with and some velcro.

u/youiare · 2 pointsr/WindowsMR
u/smithenheimer · 2 pointsr/oculus

I'm using these....

HMDI

USB

Then for the sake of asthetics, I wrapped them both in this to keep the wires together when routing.

10 foot for each, which has worked for me, but 15 might give a bit more flexibility depending on the location of your PC. But part of the benefit of the hanging cables is that as long as your cable can reach diagonally to the opposite corner of your space, (front to back, left to right, and top to bottom. Diagonally in 3 dimensions), then it should be able to reach anywhere in your space. The stock Rift cable can reach diagonally across my space, and my extension cables are just getting my cable to its "start" position in the corner.

Keep in mind these cables don't have a ton of strength, so I recommend getting a hefty command strip hook to statically fix your wire near the ceiling to take a lot of the weight, then the hook cables can split the weight from there as it droops towards your head naturally.

This turned into a bit of a novel but I hope my "lessons learned" are helpful haha

u/telos0 · 2 pointsr/WindowsMR

A few other things:

As others have mentioned, the Odyssey's tracking relies on the room having enough light for the cameras to see.

While the Vive works great in total darkness, you have to remember to turn on the lights at night to make the Odyssey track.

And one other thing I should mention is that the cable is a bit short on the Odyssey, I had to buy some extension cables from Amazon to be comfortable I wouldn't accidentally yank out or break the connectors.

I went with these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/

u/vanfanel1car · 2 pointsr/oculus

Just as another datapoint. I'm using a ASUS ROG MAXIMUS VIII GENE LGA 1151 Intel Z170 mobo. I have a Cable Matters 10ft Passive USB3 extension cable which is similar to the one you tested and although you had limited success this worked fine for the camera sensor on all my rear ports. My front ports aren't currently hooked up to check.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U

u/hellstorm102 · 2 pointsr/oculus

running a 2080 with display port extension 10 ft version
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B06Y46KJ3X?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title


and the amazon basics usbc to usb 3.1 plugged into the VR link port on the 2080 (usbc)
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01GGKYXVE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


with this brand plugged into the amazon basics
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/RojasTKD · 2 pointsr/oculus

I've used these with my Ride S and they work fine. Keep in mind it's about more than just you cables. It has to do with your USB ports too. I've found my IXT motherboards tend to work better than my ATX boards. I think the shorter traces of ITX make for better signal integrity.

So the same cable my work for some people and not for others. Good luck!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C7SA21U?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

https://www.amazon.com/your-orders/pop?packageId=1&ref=ppx_yo2_mob_b_pop&orderId=112-5223028-2859402&lineItemId=kkkkmqkunpmvony&shipmentId=Dsp458cSP

u/NukedCranium · 2 pointsr/oculus

> USB - Eleven of these https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A2HI77ZYQGGRR3&psc=1

I think you might struggle with daisy chaning these USB 3.0 extensions. Apparently the maximum length for passive USB 3.0 cables should be around 3 meters otherwise you'll start encountering poor signal.

I have 3 sensors, one plugged in directly, another via a short USB 3.0 ext, the third using the USB 2.0 ext that comes with the extra sensor from Oculus. All seems to work great. I'd probably start with 3 sensors and only add the 4th if you really need it.

u/TheWierdGuy · 2 pointsr/oculus
u/TheBobbboy · 2 pointsr/oculus

Here are the links for all the extras I bought to set it up.

u/Digital-Fishy · 2 pointsr/virtualreality

Have a look at this video ! In about 5minutes he explains that you want a high quality USB 3.0 cable.

Try this cable in 10ft length.

u/gj80 · 2 pointsr/oculus

Carabiners are useful. Clip one to a back belt loop on a pair of jeans/etc, then loop the cable through it. It goes a long way towards keeping the cable out of the way of your feet. It also cuts down on the amount of "tugging" you feel on your head as you pull the cable along behind you, which makes it feel a little less immersion-breaking.

> Do I need to get some extension cables to allow more freedom of movement further away from my PC? If so, which ones?

I think so, assuming you have the play space. Oculus has some recommended cables. I bought these 10ft extensions on Amazon and they have served me well with quite a few different headsets with no issues - HDMI and USB

u/Kivvy · 2 pointsr/WindowsMR

get yourself some VR Covers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0779VGT9W
---
a USB extension cable
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
---
an HDMI extension cable (you only need one, but you can't beat the deal)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/
---
a pack of velcro ties for the cables
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O9VKVFK/
---
bluetooth 4.0 adapter if you don't have one (or don't have a good one) and plug into a USB 2.0 port if possible. put it on the end of any USB extension cable will help ensure a direct line of sight to you from the adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ZIILLI/
---
and finally, if your USB ports fail the WMR test, get this card
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011LZY20G/

u/Ainulind · 2 pointsr/oculus

The same one you linked here, the 10ft
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/

u/immortaldual · 2 pointsr/oculus

I've extended all my sensors and my headset to give me full use of my computer room using only passive. Sounds like you've already got this to work but here's what I use in case anyone else wants to know. Cost me in total, like $45 and everything works perfectly.

Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable - 6 Feet (Latest Standard)

Cable Matters (2 Pack) Gold-Plated High Speed HDMI Female Coupler 3D & 4K Resolution-Ready

u/deadhawk12 · 2 pointsr/oculus

I guess so, sure; it just seems like it'd give you more variety in gameplay in the future.

If you ever want to try it out, I personally just ordered this extension cable after numerous recommendations from the /r/oculus community for like $18 CAD. :)

u/alose · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Yes Ducky is a great brand.

MK Ducky if you do not mind red.

Jelly Comb USB Number pad.

u/HerpertDerpington · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Is this the $20 mech numpad on amazon? Are they gateron or outemu switches? It looks pretty great to me!

u/itisBC · 2 pointsr/thinkpad

There is a numpad that often shows up on r/mechanicalkeyboards that is said to be of great value for its price https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E8U8HKW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_034qxb5NWRHFF the letters arent all that pretty though.

u/mithikx · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Here's one in black without the branding, they don't seem to have the white one listed currently.

Not sure if it's 100% identical to OP's but the shell looks to be the same. The one I linked has Outemu Blues which are rather loud, and it has buttons not found on a normal 104-key keyboard's number pad.


u/That_Mang · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Not cherry switches but gets the job done

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E8U8HKW?psc=1

Or this if you want RGB and Cherry Blues

https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=2247

u/noroadsleft · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Tenkey:

u/rysama · 2 pointsr/animation

Looks great and much better than I could do :)

You could try animating him waving his hands on 1s instead of just "blurring" the movement.

For hotkeys, buy something like this and the remap your hotkeys to it.

u/BeerGogglesFTW · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I feel the same way. If I had more interest in this keyboard I would probably just buy it, and then buy something like this, Num Pad Keyboard

u/channing173 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Jelly Comb Numpad. I got the white version and ended up handwiring it to use as desoldering practice/macropad and to have a removable cable. The switches are really loud but very nice.

u/HostileDirt · 2 pointsr/SuggestALaptop

This HP Spectre x2 model at $380

Basically everything you want minus a numpad and backlighting. you could pick-up a numpad with mechanical switches for an extra $20 https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Numeric-Keypad-Jelly-Comb/dp/B01E8U8HKW

Dont know if youd call it a stellar deal, but its there

u/Dintri · 2 pointsr/hotas

I have the same stick and using the rift. What works for me with extra buttons is that I place a razor orbweaver on the table to the left of my sticks and it works great!! You might not need that many extra buttons though and a tarurus would probably work just fine for cheaper. I was tempted to upgrade to the x 52 pro but I I love my current stick and I won't be upset if this breaks in me vs a 200 dollar stick that would make me very mad.

Edit:

I found this and i bet it works great without overpaying for the other gameboards.

https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Numeric-Keypad-Jelly-Comb/dp/B01E8U8HKW/ref=pd_sbs_63_19?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=T8FA0QXTK4D049XMXD6Q

The raised layer in the 5 key should make it easy to memorize each button around it so you don't need to see it in Vr.

Here's another for 9 bucks! If you use a shift key on your Hotas then you are basically doubling the amount of keys here :)

https://www.amazon.com/Numeric-Jelly-Comb-Portable-Computer/dp/B01E8TTWZ2/ref=pd_cp_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=10HV6T876Q90396BM4CJ

u/wax____ · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

KC21 would be perfect but it's white. There's a Qisan Magicforce in black. The Ducky Pocket has 23 keys and is fully programmable. And here is a no name brand with clone switches for $17


I'm having a hard time finding exactly what you want with 17/18 keys but I know they exist

u/Abaxvahl · 2 pointsr/roguelikes

My favorite time to play roguelikes is whenever I should be doing something important, look schoolwork (such as right now). Usually I'll play for a few hours, a couple of different games but I'll focus on one usually. Currently I am focusing on Caves of Qud and Cataclysm: Dark Days Ahead. I feel I might play some UnReal World today though, it's such a zen game.

Since I have a laptop the only thing that could be considered a set-up is I have bought an external keypad just for roguelike purposes.

Playing for a long time can be good or bad for me. It really depends on how cocky I get with my later-game characters, especially if the game has a part where it lets me be awesome, and lets me completely own everything (or I've just gotten lucky drops).

u/koduh · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

$20 on Amazon Prime with Outemu Blues. Had mine for 6 months. Does just fine.

u/enziarro · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

This one doesn't match the style, but it matches the value...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E8U8HKW/

u/stimuz · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

no, but your keycaps probably are. they're super thin ABS. I don't really know how osu works but from what I've seen its 2 buttons right?

Why not just use a numpad

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B01E8U8HKW/ref=dp_olp_used?ie=UTF8&condition=used

16.99(19.99 new) used for a mech numpad, but it's got outemu blues in it.

u/falschfreiheit · 2 pointsr/EliteDangerous
u/dnivara_ · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitchDeals
u/he_could_get_it · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Saw this on Amazon today, and I don't know if it is normal, but thought y'all might be interested. $22 off a 200 GB Sandisk microSD card:

https://www.amazon.com/Sandisk-Ultra-200GB-Micro-Adapter/dp/B073JY5T7T

u/deathbladeishere · 2 pointsr/vitahacks

256gb cards are way to overpriced right now I use a 200gb card https://www.amazon.com/Sandisk-Ultra-200GB-Micro-Adapter/dp/B073JY5T7T

u/PriceKnight · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitchDeals

Price History


  • Sandisk Ultra 200GB Micro SDXC UHS-I Card with Adapter -   ^PureLink
    ReviewMeta: ★★★★✮ 4.5/5 from 14596 valid reviews
    CamelCamelCamelKeepa

    _
    Rook no further, PriceKnight is here!
    ^(Info) ^| ^(Developer) ^| ^(Inquiries) ^| ^(Support Me!) ^| **[^(Report Bug)](/message/compose?to=The_White_Light&subject=Bug+Report&message=%2Fr%2FNintendoSwitchDeals%2Fcomments%2Fbtxroz%2Famazon_us_sandisk_ultra_200gb_microsd_2500amazon%2Fep47kwc%2F%0D%0A%0D%0A
    %0D%0A%0D%0APlease+explain+here+what+you+expected+to+happen%2Fwhat+went+wrong.)**
u/shinaku · 2 pointsr/RetroPie

£21 on Amazon UK

https://www.amazon.co.uk/SanDisk-microSDXC-Memory-Adapter-Performance/dp/B073JY5T7T/ref=dp_ob_title_ce

It wont perform incredibly well, but if you're just filling it with small ROMs you're laughing

u/caelipax · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitchDeals

That’s too bad since you can get one now for $47 on Amazon.

Sandisk Ultra 200GB Micro SDXC UHS-I Card with Adapter - 100MB/s U1 A1 - SDSQUAR-200G-GN6M

u/marsholemue · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitchDeals

They have the 200gb for $44 right here. It's cheaper to buy two and switch them out. Little inconvenient but saves $40.

u/MrTommyboy247 · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitchDeals

There's also a 200gb Micro SD Card that is available for £55.19 (20% off). Which ends at midnight too.

u/vallenato_king · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Can I ask why isn't the Sandisk 200 GB for $70 getting more recognition? For about $30 more and up to 200 GB sounds like a steal no?

u/G00deye · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

If your local Best Buy has this card: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JY5T7T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_I6UMAbK6F6NX6

They should price match Amazon since it's sold and shipped by them.

Just picked it up this week based on recommendations here.

u/RruinerR · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

The old model battery is 2.5hrs-6.5hrs, depending on game and other factors.
The new model is 4.5hrs - 9hrs, again, depending on game and other factors.

The newer model also has a brighter handheld screen.
And, as much as you say you PLAN on being docked most of the time, you will find times and excuses to undock and take it along. (I never realized how much I wanted Fire Emblem 3 Houses with me when I had the tires put on the car...)

With that being said, a 200GB microSD for sure. Best price per GB and 200GB is quite a lot of games loaded.

I also suggest a grip for handheld with a case that fits the grip.
Again, i know you dont plan on being portable, but the Grip is GREAT when you are playing handheld, and a case is required for portable. And you'll want a case that fits it.
I suggest this one Switch GoPlay

These are also good, a bit more expensive.
https://www.amazon.com/Satisfye-Nintendo-Accessories-Premium-charging-Thumbsticks/dp/B07G3KB7RT/

https://www.amazon.com/Satisfye-Accessories-Compatible-Nintendo-Charging-Thumbsticks/dp/B07K2GX4P7/

u/ElicCrapton · 2 pointsr/3DS
u/VitorOfHyrule · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Just get the 200 giga SD card. More bang for your buck. The logo is not worth the extra dollars IMO. This particular model goes on sale every once in a while.

u/BeRadGeeYo · 2 pointsr/MortalKombat

Sandisk Ultra 200GB Micro SDXC... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JY5T7T?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I bought it off Amazon but I’ve been using this one

u/BillTNJ · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Sandisk recently had a sale on their online store, they sold out pretty quickly.

Amazon has one for $66 currently.

u/-Lampe- · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

200 GB one is available for 56€ at amazon.com

u/SwitchRedditor · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Only thing I think you are missing on that great list is a memory card.
Edit: 200gb are on sale atm on amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073JY5T7T/?pldnSite=1

u/ITeachInTheGhetto · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Tldr: my SD card loads games a lot slower than my friends cartridge.

I've seen a few sources that say, as far as speed goes, internal memory is faster than SD cards is faster than the cartridge. The cartridge and SD card are close.
I was playing Mario kart with a friend and his load times for each map were more than 15-20 seconds faster than mine, he was using a cartridge and I was using an SD card. Anyone else experiencing this?

Edit: tried two more times and it was much, much closer. Maybe a better question to ask is, approximately how long does it take your system to load up a Mario kart map?

I thought I bought the recommended card but maybe not?https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073JY5T7T/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

We each loaded a game stored on our sd cards and they loaded at the same pace, not that that is relevant.

u/TheMentalist10 · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitchDeals

Average of the last 50 price changes on Amazon is £63.96; Argos seem to be charging £84.99 for some reason.

Not a historic low according to CamelCamelCamel, but not far off.

u/hga_another · 2 pointsr/DataHoarder

I think you got the wrong site, this seems to be the right one.

ADDED: what I think is the unit you're referring to has a lot of bad 1 star Amazon reviews, from 2011 to March. Some people are certainly having problems with this unit....

u/MuttJunior · 2 pointsr/PleX

That would work.

Or, you could use an external drive enclosure, like this one if you're concerned about the cost of a NAS. this is a lower cost solution. Instead of a few hundred dollars for the NAS (before the drives), this is only $100. It connects to your PC either eSATA or USB 3.0 (2.0 also works, but a little slower). Each drive shows up as an individual drive, but you could set up a software RAID for redundancy. And if you run out, you can always add more enclosures later.

u/sryan2k1 · 2 pointsr/storage

If all you want is something hooked up to a computer you should really just buy a JBOD enclosure and connect it via eSATA / USB3: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003X26VV4/ref=as_li_ss_il?ie=UTF8&tag=geekserious-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B003X26VV4

Your OS can do software RAID on the disks.

You can't "just plug a NAS into your computer" the only interface they have is Ethernet. You'd need a second network card, or plug it into a switch (your router)

u/-reTARDIS · 2 pointsr/DataHoarder

I got this MediaSonic 4 drive enclosure for $100 from Amazon a few months ago to replace a similar enclosure I had from Sans Digital that died.

Has USB 3.0 and eSATA connections. It can be used in JBOD mode if you don't want any kind of redundancy. It does not have any hardware RAID capabilities built in though I am doing a SW RAID with mirroring by making mirrors of 2 pairs of drives. That way if one dies, I can still avoid total data loss at least.

I have four 3TB drives in it at the moment.

u/CapnCrunchMD · 2 pointsr/Surface

I've seen a couple people that get a USB powered fan and point it at the area that gets hot on top of the CPU.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003XN24GY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AoxJybKESRJER

u/Holop_dolop · 2 pointsr/SurfaceGaming

With my surface book, I've had far more success getting one of those USB fans and angling it towards the back of the tablet portion. It's far more portable, cheaper, quieter, and cools just as well if not better because you can direct the air flow exactly to where you need it.

Arctic ABACO-BZG00-010000 ARCTIC Breeze Mobile - Mini USB Desktop Fan with Flexible Neck and Adjustable Fan Speed I Portable Desk Fan for Home, Office I Silent USB Fan I Fan Speed 1700 RPM - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003XN24GY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_j3T4Ab0RSPGEB

u/tcoder · 2 pointsr/Surface

I think this is it. Link

u/DerpyDreads · 2 pointsr/Surface

Do you think this would work better than one of these placed towards the right corner?

u/Snackie56 · 2 pointsr/SurfaceGaming

This shouldnt happen if you're using an external fan. I use a usb fan plugged into the surface and I never experience throttling, while playing any of my games- whether it be cs:go, civ 5, overwatch, rocket league. I do not even undervolt.

You must either have a defective unit, or you're using your fan incorrectly. I use the arctic breeze usb gooseneck fan, and I point it at the upper right hand corner of my surface. The surface blows hot air out the left side. Do not point it at the left side.

If you wanted a laptop for gaming, you should've gotten a regular laptop in the first place, or at best- a gaming laptop. This could all be made extremely easy through using this simple 7$ fan, http://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-USB-Powered-Portable-Solution-Gooseneck/dp/B003XN24GY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465169109&sr=8-1&keywords=arctic+breeze+usb+fan

u/ThatNakedGuy7 · 2 pointsr/macmini

Mine runs hot when I'm using Photoshop. I've read elsewhere that the heat is within Intel specs.
Regardless, I bought a USB fan that I point at the Mini, and it cools it down great.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003XN24GY/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_NxCyDb335Y7YE

u/innnnmotion · 2 pointsr/onebag

Y'all may laugh, but this usb travel fan. There are so many times that I stay in dorms and just need a little bit of moving air and this thing has come in handy countless times. I can think of one particular stay on the beach in Guatemala in a hostel with pod beds and no fans provided. Everybody complained and was miserable. I wasn't as jolly as if I had an actual fan or AC, but I sure was doing better.

It plugs straight into a usb, makes no sound, and is light enough that I'm happy to justify it.

u/Rhiordan · 2 pointsr/Surface

There are tweaks you can do to make it not throttle. You need to change the power options which requires you do go into regedit and make a simple change. Here's the link on how to do it.

http://forums.windowscentral.com/microsoft-surface-pro-4/403403-no-more-throttle-fans-surface-pro-3-4-a.html

I can now game on medium settings without it throttling. Plus, get this fan...

http://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-USB-Powered-Portable-Solution-Gooseneck/dp/B003XN24GY?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

It's not too loud and it keeps the back of the surface cool.

I should say that I have the i7 16gig so I have the 540 vid chip, but I'm sure it will work also for the i5 version.