(Part 2) Best computer accessories & peripherals according to redditors
We found 68,633 Reddit comments discussing the best computer accessories & peripherals. We ranked the 13,203 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
Specs: Raspberry Pi Zero W running Raspbian. I have a generic case that I found at Microcenter that came with a heat sync. Samba is installed for windows file sharing. Pi VPN is also installed for access from anywhere. Two hard drive enclosures form amazon with a few hard drives I had lying around: 1TB (left) and a 320GB (right). The fan is an Arctic Breeze Mobile and I also have a USB to Ethernet adapter. Everything is connected to a 7 hub Anker powered USB hub. The fan is probably overkill but whatever, it looks cool.
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Guides I followed to get it all up and running:
How To Geek: How to Turn a Raspberry Pi into a Low-Power Network Storage Device
Combining the two different hard drives to appear as one
Setting up OpenVPN with PiVPN
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Edit: Added Amazon links - I didn't buy everything from amazon but this is easiest. Some things aren't the exact ones shown but close enough.
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Edit Edit: Added links to the guides I followed
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Edit\^3: Thank you all for the support and my first Gold! I didn't think this would get as much support as it has gotten! :)
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Last Edit hopefully: I apologize I called it a "Cloud" Server. It has stirred up some debate on whether or not it is. I called it a "cloud" server because I can access it from anywhere.
You can buy a credit card size pc called a raspberry pi for $35 plus SD card plus power cable. You can then install pi hole which blocks ads on your home network. So your cell phone won't see ads your pc won't see ads. Your dad's best friends roommate from college who is on your network won't see ads. Pretty fucking sweet.
edit some links
pi hole https://pi-hole.net
Raspberry pi with power and case https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01C6EQNNK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1496894828&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=raspberry+pi+3&dpPl=1&dpID=61Kje-Jv3AL&ref=plSrch
SD card https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010Q57T02/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1496895065&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=class+10+micro+sd+card&dpPl=1&dpID=41f2SZSqv6L&ref=plSrch
FULL SPECS AND LINKS:
PC
Other Stuff
I have a small desk and bought something like this https://www.amazon.com/Number-Jelly-Comb-Mechanical-Numeric/dp/B01E8U8HKW
Being able to move it around helps.
If you're looking at something to wear all day, and I mean all day then these are it, so incredibly comfy.
EDIT1: YMMV some below have said they have found others comfier so do some research and maybe buy a few, compare, and keep your favorite pair. Others suggested the AKG K7XX, the HD598, and the SHP9500.
EDIT2: Wire is removeable although long, 10ft/3m I believe, other sizes can be purchased although not universal since it's 2.5mm to 3.5mm. just search 558 or 598 cable
EDIT3: I don't own a mic other than the one built into my webcam. I have read up on the modmic which you can attach the headphones and something stand alone would be a blue [snowball] (https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Snowball-iCE-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B014PYGTUQ/ref=lp_2586045011_1_1?srs=2586045011&ie=UTF8&qid=1503600799&sr=8-1) or a yeti. There's a 4th option but you will have to mod the headphones sorta using the v-moda boompro, you'll have to google that. Good luck!
EDIT4: These are open headphones, unlike the Audio-Technica ATH-M50x's so that means sound does leak, and they're not isolating unless very loud. Check out reviews there are plenty of comparisons and youtube videos out there.
At first I was surprised as well, but the more I think about it, it makes sense.
The NES Classic is selling like hotcakes because of hype. When the hype dies, the sales fall off a cliff. I really don't know anything at all about their supply chain, but it seems that Nintendo has been increasingly reliant on "off-the-shelf" hardware ever since the Wii. For example, there was a little "ATI" logo stamped on the Wii because Nintendo used a regular graphics card for that console, and so ATI "owned" part of that device.
So I'm guessing they don't have a ton of vertical integration for hardware manufacturing. Compare that to Apple, which has been aggressively working to own as much of their hardware manufacturing process as possible, even going as far as to manufacture their own CPUs (iPhones have an "A9" chip or whatever, while other smartphones just buy hardware from companies like Samsung, AMD, nVidia, Qualcomm, etc).
The downside of 100% vertical integration is that if Nintendo wanted to make a new Zelda, they would have to control, manage, and pay for everything that Zelda runs on-- the silicon, the enclosure, the LCD screens, the joysticks, even the plastic game cases and printing of brochures. It's insane when you think about it. The upshot is that when you have complete control over everything, you can "stop the presses" at a moment's notice.
So Nintendo doesn't do vertical integration. Again, I have no insider info, but it's become increasingly clear simply by Googling around. For example here's a Polygon article that shows the NES classic is just a bunch of off-the-shelf hardware crammed into an offically trademarked plastic box. And this makes perfect sense. It's also notable that the Nintendo Switch is also completely outsourced, from the nVidia graphics to the USB-C port, microSD slot, Bluetooth, HDMI, etc.
It makes sense for them too-- they're a software company that happens to be in the advantageous position of being able to make such incredibly high quality software that people are willing to buy custom hardware just to play it. Imagine if EA Games tried to sell a console, and it was the only way to play games featuring their intellectual property. Holy shit, that would be their single biggest blunder.
But I digress: The NES Classic is "Nintendo" only in terms of IP. They're just buying electronics from various hardware manufacturers, gluing them together, installing an emulator, and slapping their logo on it. It's a fun product, but we all know it isn't going to last. And here's the thing: Nintendo surely gets a better deal on all this third-party hardware than you or I would, but only because they're placing massive bulk orders.
And that's the kicker, in my opinion. They might have sold a ton of NES Classic consoles, but the holiday season is over and the hype is sure to die soon. Say they placed an initial order for 500 million "Mali400MP2" GPUs to build all these cute little consoles, and they got a quote from the manufacturer saying it would cost 50 cents per unit. Good news: They recovered that 250 million cost by completely selling out! But they know the hype is going to die, and buying another 500 million seems like it might be overkill. Maybe they order 250 million. Except now that the order is smaller, the cost per unit has jumped up to 75 cents per unit (I am completely making these numbers up).
So it's a gamble that gets increasingly risky the longer you play. They already made a ton of money from the NES Classic, but as the hype dies, they'll have to make smaller orders and the cost per unit is going to increase. My guess is that they're still licking their wounds from what happened with the Wii. Those things sold shockingly well, until they woke up one morning and suddenly nobody wanted a Wii anymore. I bet that there was a very specific "oh shit" day at Nintendo HQ when they saw that Wii sales had plummeted while they had millions of optimistically-built units sitting in their warehouses.
To me, cancelling the NES Classic is a good example of "quit while you're ahead". I can't imagine how much the Wii is still burned into the memory of every executive at Nintendo. They built something so popular that it became a global social phenomenon, and then suddenly it just died, and they had their worst fiscal year in ages. Because they'd bought and assembled a bunch of Wiis that would never be sold.
I'll admit that this is way too long of a response to "WHY!?!?" but I do find it interesting. I'm only just starting to understand terms like "vertical integration" myself, but it does help to clarify why certain things are the way they are. Comparing Nintendo to Apple is very illuminating. Both companies have insane brand recognition, but they do business very differently. Ever since Steve Jobs died and Tim Cook became the CEO, people have been predicting the death of Apple. Instead, their stock price has more than doubled since the day he died. Jobs was the charismatic leader, but Cook is the king of the supply chain. He's pushed for vertical integration, and it's been working beautifully. Apple makes a crap product like the Watch? They just scale back production.
Because of vertical integration, Apple can fine-tune their manufacturing to such a precise degree that they'll keep selling Apple Watches right up until the last profitable watch is sold, even though it's clearly a failing product. On the other hand, Nintendo sells products that they don't build, so they have nowhere near the degree of granularity when it comes to predicting how their things will sell tomorrow. Neither company can predict the future, but Apple can change everything in a relative instant, while Nintendo has to make an educated guess about how the world is going to look 6 months down the line.
Also, I'm guessing the cancellation of the NES classic is going to conveniently correspond to a sudden influx of Classic NES games being sold for the Switch on the Nintendo eShop, along with various limited-edition consoles and themed peripherals. That being said, I fucking love Nintendo and hope I can die without seeing them go out of business. People who claim that the Switch is currently a $350 Zelda game are basically right, and I don't give a flying fuck. 100% worth it.
On a final note, if you wanted an NES Classic and couldn't get one or don't want to get price-gouged from a hoarder-reseller, I'd do this:
Total cost (including the NES controllers and the microSD card) rounds up to $85. And a cheaper Pi will play NES games just fine, nor do you HAVE to buy the $20 NES-themed plastic case I just randomly found on Amazon. Plus you're not limited to the games that were included on the NES Classic, and once you get bored with playing 30 year-old games there are plenty of other things to do with a Pi... Like write unnecessarily long Reddit posts, which I've just finished doing!
You can already buy them stupid cheap. I have two SanDisk 256GB cards I got for $33 each. One is in my Switch. The other is in a drawer until I figure out what to use it for. Maybe my PSP.
Amazon had the 400GB card on sale the other day for $46
The 512GB card was on sale yesterday for $57.
Anything small, 8GB, 16GB, 32GB, 64GB can be had for like $16 or less.
128GB for like $25
—
400GB - $57
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074RNRM2B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9we3Cb75R3QBB
256GB - $38
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0758NHWS8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nwe3CbRK04R5Q
200GB - $33
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JY5T7T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.ye3CbS3CT6AH
128GB - $20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JYC4XM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Mxe3CbAWACBJR
64GB - $12
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JYVKNX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9ze3CbBCX3549
32GB - $7
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JWXGNT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AAe3CbBV81WFY
16GB - $6
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073K14CVB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1Ae3CbG0JXK3K
Not sure how much cheaper you expect them to get.
My most recent gaming mice are the Logitech G400, which has the advantages of solid construction and a nice heft:
http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Optical-Gaming-High-Precision-910-002277/dp/B0055QZ216
http://gaming.logitech.com/en-us/product/g400s-optical-gaming-mouse
And the Razer Deathadder, which I'm almost positive is the 2013 edition:
http://www.razerzone.com/gaming-mice/razer-deathadder
http://www.amazon.com/Razer-DeathAdder-Essential-Ergonomic-RZ01-00840100-R3U1/dp/B00AAS888S
In general Razer and Logitech both make a solid mouse, and since it sounds like you're already a happy Razer customer, I wouldn't hesitate much to go with the DA 2013. If you did hesitate, I've been salivating just a little over Zowie mice:
http://www.zowiegear.com/index.php?i=products&p=1
I haven't actually gamed with one and can't personally comment on their performance, but you should at least take a look. They're apparently designed with Counter-Strike and Starcraft especially in mind, if those games are your thing.
Edit: Forgot to mention the G500, which can be generally thought of as a single step upgrade from the G400 in quality and price:
http://gaming.logitech.com/en-us/product/g500s-laser-gaming-mouse
If you're looking at the 400, make sure to consider the 500 as well.
As a former Naga user, the extra macro keys on the G600 might interest you:
http://gaming.logitech.com/en-us/product/g600-mmo-gaming-mouse
edit2: This is all assuming you want to move on fron the Razer Naga. They still sell it; in fact, they sell multiple versions. If it made you happy, there's nothing stopping you from just buying another one.
This usb fan. I've had so many uncomfortably hot nights, especially while staying in pod dorms without fans built in. This thing is light, well built, and provides a surprising amount of cooling breeze.
Easily solved for under $7 https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Input-Output-Adapter-Cable/dp/B014I8UQJY/
I am honestly struggling with the abundance of mechanical keyboard suggestions. I don’t use one, and very few people at my workplace use one. I will say that unless there’s some significant ergonomic benefit that I’m missing, the “pro” of having a keyboard that feels great comes at the heavy expense of potentially annoying the hell out of your colleagues with the noise. It depends if your friend works remotely or in an office, but I can say that in an office environment a mechanical keyboard seems like a disrespectful move in my personal and professional opinion.
Three things I can suggest that are each universally useful and cheap are a cable keeper, a USB hub, and this specific stress ball. I love this stress ball because it has such an awesome squishy texture to it. Unfortunately you don’t get to pick the color (not the slightest idea why) but most people end up getting a black one, myself included.
wow thank you. I saw this, went to amazon.ca (canadian) and it was on sale there too. I bought it within 2 minutes of seeing this thread. Thanks!!!
List Price: CDN$ 107.80
Deal Price: CDN$ 64.99 & FREE Shipping.
You Save: CDN$ 42.81 (40%)
https://www.amazon.ca/SanDisk-Ultra-microSDXC-Adapter-SDSQUAR-200G-GN6MA/dp/B073JY5T7T/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511458096&sr=8-1&keywords=sandisk+200
For Canadians :)
Edit: and now today (on black Friday) the price went up! Gross!
SanDisk Ultra 200GB microSDXC UHS-I Card - $29.21 (26% off)
SanDisk Ultra 400GB microSDXC UHS-I Card - $62.30 (34% off)
Both are near Black Friday value per GB. The majority of "all digital games" Switch owners should be happy with the 200GB. Those with a mix of physical and digital are usually fine with 128GB. But if you need a new card the 200GB is worth considering at only $8 more.
The Switch only supports up to 104MB/s max read speed. Eurogamer found only a 0.3 second load time difference between a 30MB/s card and a 90MB/s card. For most users you want to consider capacity (how much do you need) and value (cost per GB), not speed.
Yep, the G400. I switched from a 518 to it and haven't looked back. It's the same shape and button layout, but more precise.
*edit: wrong product name
Seems like most 64gb microsd are under $25. The one on Amazon is $22.
EDIT: price history. Was as low as $15 during the holiday season.
If you don't want to watch the video that's cool, here's a summary;
Over the last few months I've been testing various cables for use with my four sensor setup. What I quickly discovered was that not all cables are created equal in the eyes of the Oculus Rift!
The Rift and Sensors can be a bit stubborn when it comes to cables. Some work intermitantly, some report USB 3.0 as USB 2.0, some give audio issues when using with the Rift and some just point blank refused to work.
I think I've finally nailed down the best cables which I've personally tested and would recommend to use with your Rift.
Due to the summer sale I know we have an influx of new Rift users so hopefully this guide helps.
Here's the links where you can buy these cables for yourself;
Cable Matters USB 3.0 3M /10FT Extension Cable:
UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=pe_1909131_77697001_tnp_email_TE_AMZLdp_3?th=1
US - https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503739950&sr=8-1&keywords=cable+matters+superspeed+usb+3.0
KabelDirekt 2m / 6FT HDMI Extension Cable:
UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B013ICN59Y/ref=pe_1909131_77697001_tnp_email_TE_AMZLdp_2
US - https://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-Extension-Cable-1080p-Ethernet/dp/B012ASNHIG/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503740842&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=kabeldirekt+2m+extension
DVI to HDMI Adapter:
UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00ZMVGTA2/ref=pe_1909131_77697001_tnp_email_TE_AMZLdp_1
US - https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-2-Pack-Gold-Plated-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00ZMVGTA2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503740883&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=DVI+to+HDMI+adapter&psc=1
CableCreation 5M / 16FT USB 3.0 Active Extension Cable (Fine For Sensors BUT Causes Audio Issues When Using With Rift):
UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/CableCreation-Active-Extension-Extender-Female/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1503740956&sr=8-7&keywords=cable+creations+usb+3.0
US - https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Active-Extension-Extender-Female/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503740977&sr=8-1&keywords=cablecreation+usb+3.0
UGREEN 5M / 16FT USB 3.0 Active Extension Cable (Additional Power Micro USB Port isn't required when using the Rift. Do not use this with the Rift as may cause damage)
UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/UGREEN-Extension-Amplifier-PlayStation-loudspeakers/dp/B01FQ88CE6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503741031&sr=8-2&keywords=ugreen+oculus+cable
US - https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Extension-Repeater-Amplifier-Superspeed/dp/B01FQ88CE6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1503741078&sr=8-5&keywords=ugreen%2Busb%2B3.0%2Bextension&th=1
AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI 4.6M / 15FT Cable:
UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B014I8TOTC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
US - https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Rated-Wall-Installation-Cable/dp/B014I8TOTC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503741177&sr=8-2&keywords=AmazonBasics+High-Speed+HDMI+CL3+Cable
Mini HDMI Repeater Extender:
UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Repeater-Extender-130FT-Support-Switch/dp/B01MDS8DJH/ref=sr_1_11?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503740907&sr=1-11&keywords=hdmi+repeater
US - https://www.amazon.com/COWEEN-Repeater-Amplifier-Extender-Transmission/dp/B01GHL72XS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1503740927&sr=8-3&keywords=hdmi+repeater
Hope this helps :)
This is what I have experimented with and works great on multiple systems... For you look at step 2 and 3.
1st GET A THIRD SENSOR IF YOU WANT TRUE ROOMSCALE "they are on backorder at the moment"
2nd Get three of these for your sensors to make sure they can reach anywhere you want them too: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
3rd Get 2 of these to completely isolate all of you VR components from the sometimes janky unreliable USB ports on A LOT of motherboards that cannot supply enough power and/or bandwidth for all of the cameras and HMD to work properly I chose this card because it only has two ports and both of those ports work no matter if you plug in 2 sensors or 1 sensor and the HMD. The Inatek card DOES have issues for somewhere some ports work and others do not and are still only being able to run 2 sensors off the Inatek card and having to run the HMD and 3rd sensor off the motherboard. The Orico card just works and you don't have to think about experimenting with ports just plug everything into the two Orico cards in any configuration and go. Also use the default Windows drivers whether you go with the Inatek or Orico card only upgrade after trying the defaults drivers without success: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AVSN2YG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
4th This is optional. One of these for extending your HMD HDMI cable by 15ft for a total of 28ft: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008D5EUD2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
5th This repeater is required to make the HDMI cable above work, but with this repeater, the extension is flawless: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHL72XS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
6th To extend the Rift HMD USB I use the USB 2.0 Active Extension Monoprice Repeater Cable that comes with the 3rd sensor it is 16ft long, works perfectly. Then I used a small piece of electrical tape every 6 inches from the HMD to the PC to make the extended HMD cable one piece leaving about 2 ft of cable loose at the end to be able to plug in wherever I want.
I did a lot of research bought the Inateck and Orico USB add-on cards, multiple active USB extensions, multiple different HDMI adapters and extensions of varying lengths, Display port to HDMI adapters, DVI to HMDI adapters, and did all the experimentation and testing required to make all this work. The list I listed above works every time on multiple systems in different environments, rooms, and households.
If you need clarification on anything and/or want more information, feel free to respond or message me. I will gladly help.
After you get your USB cards installed and you sensors plugged in with the hardware I listed above reboot the system and the follow the below instructions.
Also when you get your stuff after everything is installed and setup do this as a last step for good measure:
Once the sensor setup has fully completed, search for PowerShell in the Windows start menu, right click it, and click 'Run as administrator'
Copy all of this PowerShell script (hit Ctrl-A, then Ctrl-C), then paste it into the PowerShell window (Ctrl-V), then hit Enter
Once it has completed, close PowerShell and restart your computer (this is important)
Here is the link to the script, just copy all the text on the page and past it into powershell: http://pastebin.com/raw/9f9MMny1
This basically sets all of your usb cards and ports to a high power no sleep mode and assures that Windows doesn't try to manage your usb's at the wrong time in the wrong way. I am not sure if I needed to do this but I just did it for good measure. I did all of the manually until I found this script that somebody else on reddit made. Just makes it quicker and easier than changing all the settings one by one.
Note if you haven't done this already you can do it now with your current setup to see if it helps "Probably won't but it may"
This bears repeating for everyone: if you do not have a dash cam, get a dash cam. $45 + $13.
If there is a USB port on the switch, get this.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XN24GY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
These fans are amazing. 1 of them keep my network equipment cool. Works like a champ.
No G400? The spiritual successor to the MX 518.
From a DPI standpoint it's on par with the Deathadder but $15 cheaper, I guess it would depend on your grip preference though.
Do you mind changing the link to an Amazon Smile link? Amazon donates a tiny amount to the charity of the buyers choice.
https://smile.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-microSDXC-Adapter-SDSQUAR-256G-GN6MA/dp/B073JY5T7T?ref_=Oct_DLandingS_PC_d4963fc2_NA&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1
That's not a UPS. UPS is Uninterruptible Power Supply. Essentially a surge protector with a battery that, assuming it doesnt trip/blow due to an electrical surge, can keep you PC running for a few minutes so you can do a clean shutdown and clean you normal power so your components last longer.
This is the one I use. It is the cheapest SINEWAVE UPS you can get (long story short, pure sinewave is better for your components). If you just want a cheap backup, this one is also good.
As a side note before i get spammed, yes I know the one I use isn't a true sinewave, but is infact many, many rapid steps that for all intents and purposes creates a sinewave.
I'm afraid that's not really an offer. As TranQLizer said, they're going for $10 regularly.
This is an offer:
SanDisk 32GB Micro SD + adapter at 80MB/s, $7.99.___
ALERT ALERT
As u/Dangerosity mentioned the seller has iffy ratings, it's sketchy as FUCK.
I recommend this one: Samsung EVO 32GB Micro SD + adapter at 48MB/s, $9.00
DO NOTE that the cheapest seller on this one is again that sketchy as fuck company, but if you go to the second cheapest seller you'll find one with great ratings.
PS: This second recommendation has slower transfer rate, 48MB/s instead of 80MB/s, but as far as I know it's unnoticeable in mooost applications. In my case I want it for my 3DS and there's virtually no difference according to my findings. If you need the faster one just get the first recommendation from a more reputable seller.
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1536372612&sr=8-1&keywords=1500pfclcd
link without the referral + smile
https://smile.amazon.com/Sandisk-Ultra-200GB-Micro-Adapter/dp/B073JY5T7T?sa-no-redirect=1
Seriously the best bang for your buck, gamer or otherwise is the g400. Premium optical sensor (Avago ADNS-A3080E/S3095) with the best tracking on the market. Laser sensors suffer from certain inaccuracies. Retails for around 30-40. Amazon Link
If you hate the form factor, go with the death adder, which is cheaper in construction in my opinion but some prefer the form factor of the death adder: Amazon Link.
You might want to provide more information, such as usage for the mouse: gamer, artist, high dpi needed, low dpi needed, on the fly dpi switching etc. Are you a palm grip or claw grip? Do you use your wrist primarily for mousing or your whole forearm? What type of mousing surface do you like?
For the 2 sensors on the wall above the computer I'm using 10ft USB 3.0 extension cables. For the 3rd camera I'm using a 16.4ft USB 2.0 extension cable, as well as a 6ft USB 3.0 extension cable because the 2.0 cable wasn't long enough. I have all 3 cameras plugged into the same USB controller on the motherboard. Since I'm using a 2.0 extension cable, the 3rd camera is running via USB 2.0.
I'm using a 10ft HDMI extension cable and a 10ft USB 3.0 cable for the headset. The extension cables are electrical taped together and secured to my desk using velcro straps. I have the headset USB plugged into a PCI-E USB card I bought because I was running out of USB ports.
It's worth noting that for the first couple of days, I was getting occasional errors where the it said the headset was disconnected and I would have to unplug the USB and plug it back in. Since moving the headset to the USB on the PCI-E card (off the same controller as the sensors) I have not had this issue or any other issues to speak of.
6ft 3.0 Extension
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CFL6ARO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
16.4ft 2.0 Extension
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KY9M51O/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
10ft 3.0 Extension
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
USB PCI-E Expansion Card
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
10ft HDMI Extension
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004C4SECG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Remember, a UPS isn't meant to be a backup power supply. It's only meant to keep your system going long enough for you to do a proper shutdown.
Unless you're doing something insane like a server board with dual CPUs or quad-SLI, this one will be more than sufficient:
CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS System, 1500VA/900W, 10 Outlets, AVR, Mini-Tower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429N19W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0E0kDbGYW8M3X
If you don't care about Bluetooth I just bought this for $20
It's definitely a generic blue switch -Outemu- but it works great. For $20 when I desperately needed a numpad for some extended data entry was totally worth it. Very solid, long usb cord, metal plate with plastic bottom, and very compact, without tons of extra plastic like some of the other numpads.
Only complaint is the slightly unusual layout with the tab button and small + key.
Also it does output numpad codes.
I bought some cheap speakers/sub from Amazon a few months/year(?) back. Cost me about $35, but I'm very pleased with the quality for that price. I don't know if you're looking for professional quality stuff, but these are legit for the price
http://www.amazon.com/Cyber-Acoustics-Subwoofer-Satellite-CA-3602a/dp/B0027VT6V4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1369616255&sr=8-2&keywords=computer+speakers
I highly recommend anything from Logitech. Their products tend to last longer than almost anything else I've used.
Logitech G400 Gaming Mouse is one of the best mice you can buy, and it fits into your price range.
Also, if you want to just get another Razer Deathadder, they are going for $40 on Amazon.
It seems to either break or ID as affiliate links Amazon links that have any search criteria or anything else in the URL, other than the direct URL for that page. Make sure your links look like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Sandisk-Ultra-200GB-Micro-Adapter/dp/B073JY5T7T
And don't have anything extra after that last string of letters and numbers.
Here is what I got going on (top to bottom, left to right):
I have my monitor and keyboard sitting on a lack side table
Then on top of my lack side table on casters (I could no longer find it on ikea for the link, not sure if they stopped selling them?) I have:
an AT&T MicroCell - which is awesome since my office (and this closet) is in the basement.
NETGEAR R6250 - which is used for guest Wi-Fi access only.
ieGeek USB LVM switch (behind the NETGEAR)
CyberPower CP1500AVRLCD UPS - Which is currently supporting only my 2 R710's for battery, the rest pictured for surge protection.
Then inside the lackrack:
Cablox Mini Cord Organizers stuck to the roof for clean cable management
Dell PowerConnect 5324 - 24 Port Gigabit
Dell R710 2x Xeon L5520, 32GB RAM, 8GB thumb, 120GB Samsung SSD, 6x2TB Seagate NAS HDD
6x2TB in RaidZ2
Dell R710 2x Xeon E5530, 32GB RAM, 8GB thumb, 6x1TB Seagate Barracuda HDD
edit: listing stuffs..
Raspberry Pi 3
Raspberry Pi Clear Case
32GB MicroSD Card
Netatmo Weather Station
Wind Gauge
Rain Gauge
Rain/Wind Gauge mounts
3 Way HDMI Switch
1FT HDMI Cable
Wifi Adapter
Everything is attached to the back of the television with some double sided sticky paper things i had lying around. Anything will probably work.
The USB wall outlet is one that delivers 3.1A at 5V that we bought from our local hardware store.
The server that the software runs on is a poweredge r710 with dual x5670s and 64GB of ram. Of course, this isnt all it does, but it is one of the many things i host on it. :)
If you'd like, i can post the scripts i wrote for it as well.
Well there's a few considerations.
1: If you want to keep your data (all your downloaded games, Windows, documents, Steam, etc.) then you will need to clone your old hard drive to the new SSD. A lot of SSD's come with cloning software, but just to be safe check on the SSD's page to make sure it will come with it. If they don't, you can download a free software called EaseUS ToDo Backup Free but in my experience this software is a little unreliable. (EDIT: /u/spif_spaceman recommended another software called Macrium Reflect Free, and after testing it myself I concluded that it does seem to work much better than EaseUS, and going forward I will recommend it to everyone as well. Thanks spif!) If you don't want to move your data, you could always just disconnect the HDD, connect the SSD in its place, and reinstall Windows.
2: To actually get your system to read both drives if your going to copy your data, you can simply power off the system and install the SSD in a second drive bay and plug in SATA power and data cables, or you can get a SATA to USB conversion kit and plug the drive in externally. Here is a great kit that I use at my job as a computer repair technician all the time, as it's very reliable, works with most major drive types, and is simple to use. You could also go with something like this if you want something a little more clean and easier to use. Personally either one of those solutions would work, however that enclosure does have a USB 3.0 connection vs the cable which uses a USB 2.0 connection, so the enclosure would have a faster data transfer speed provided you have an available USB 3.0 port.
3: Once you actually get your data moved over (or not) you may need to get a 2.5 inch to 3.5 inch mounting bracket depending on your case. Most modern cases (3-5 years old generally) will have support for an SSD built right in, but some may not. If not, here is a good kit for a great price, and you get 2!
Hope this helped!
Even cheaper: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B014I8UQJY/
I did a group test on USB3 extenders here is what I found out :
I tested using an Asus z170 Deluxe motherboard it has both Intel and AsMedia USB3 ports. I also used the Oculus recommended Inatek 7 port USB 3 Card.
——Worked——
Cables in this category mean the sensor detected as USB3 in Oculus devices and didn’t lose connection and provided solid tracking testing with the headset on, no matter what brand of USB3 port it was connected to (Intel, AsMedia,Inatek).
MutecPower 5m active USB3 extension cable £22
(picture seems to be wrong on amazon website, also note this cable seems to be sold as various brands but I'm pretty sure its all the same cable, it should look like this
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01BLPSU2W/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
CableCreation 5m active USB3 extension cable £12
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Amazon Basics 1m Passive USB3 extension cable £4
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NH13UFQ/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
——Sort of Worked——
Cable Matters 3m Passive USB3 extension cable £7
Detected as USB3 when using the InatekCard (which has extra power from a SATA power connector)
Detected as USB2 when using motherboard Intel or AsMedia USB3 ports
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MPMFKSI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cable Matters 5m Active USB3 extension cable £11
Only worked as USB 3 in one of the AsMedia ports and only when everything else was disconnected. Was USB2 or has an error in other AsMedia or Intel ports. Detected as USB3 in the Inatek Card and seemed ok testing in Oculus home loading area.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MPMFKSI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
——Didn’t work——
Belfen Superspeed 5m active USB3 extension cable £7
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0179EPUEK/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
detected as USB2 on every USB3 port including Inatek card
You could use a tutorial here. It is a lot easier to do than it seems. I will tell you, you need a keyboard, Raspberry Pi 3, and an SD Card. Once you get that, here is where you can download it.. Then, just follow the instructions on Instructable. You really do not have to pay someone, it is a lot easier than it seems. If you want, you can even get a retro case (or normal one like I did) and get a retro controller. PM me if you need more help (I won't charge you if you need help, it is really easy)!
Edit: Ill do yo a bigger favor. Here are the things you will need
Raspberry Pi 3
Raspberry Pi 3 Charger Kit. A powerful phone charger or micro usb adapter should work, but someone can let me know if I am wrong.
SD Card Raspberry Pi 3
Keyboard, though, you probably have one of these at home
Retro Controller, not required, but recommended
You will need at least an 8 GB SD Card, but I recommend 32 GB
Failed Fakespot the the company has a shit rating as well.
$10 is also pretty standard for a 3/4 port hub(example) on sale.
I bought these to test with:
Amazon Basics USB 3.0 A to C cable
Right angle USB C adapters
And I have this left over from my Oculus CV1 accessory kit wishlist I put on amazon. I'll report back here with what works and what doesn't. I'm also going to get a public google sheet going of cables, adapters (right angle) and active/passive extensions that work so that people can use that as reference.
EDIT: Link to sheet. Anyone with link can edit. Don't make me regret that. I will lock it. (Though if you want to fix my terrible formatting, feel free.)
EDIT: Had to disable open edit permissions. Going to add a form that will add unformatted data at the bottom, then I'll format it properly into the thread. Here's the form: https://forms.gle/uzyHvmgyXJGuVkKM9
I bought one of these to consolidate drives into a single enclosure:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003X26VV4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9jgpDbERCY0PX
They sell 8 drive versions as well.
It's a bit on the expensive side, but it was worth it for me because of the space savings, fewer USB drives, less cable mess, and plug points.
What do you mean? 200GB card is $50 right now
Logitech G400, the direct successor of the MX518, which was considered the best by many.
Anyone interested in this may want to look at this first: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010Q57T02/
SanDisk 32GB class 10 for $10.59 and prime free shipping.
It would have been better if you actually linked to the landing page and not to a screenshot of the article
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010Q588D4/
$7 on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8UQJY
[Link] (SanDisk Ultra 200GB microSDXC UHS-I card with Adapter - 100MB/s U1 A1 - SDSQUAR-200G-GN6MA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JY5T7T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZUG7Cb4B3ZYDW) for the lazy
It's all about DC vs AC and how DC is converted to AC.
DC is the type of power that comes from a battery and AC is the type of power that comes from your household outlets.
DC is always positive or always negative (always flowing in one direction) but AC changes between positive and negative very rapidly. In the US we use what's called a split phase system that gives us 120v for our homes but regardless of what voltage it is it will fluctuate between +120v and -120v and in our case it will do so 60 times a second.
Pure Sine
The way the electricity changes from positive to negative can be represented mathematically and on a graph where it would appear as a wave going up and down. The shape of that wave and mathematical properties of the wave determines the name. The power provided to your home is a pure or true sine wave and is a smooth flowing transition between positive and negative, to be precise it is given this name because of the trigonometric function 'sine'.
Modified Sine
A modified or simulated sine wave makes sudden transitions to predetermined voltages until it reaches the desired voltage. This would appear on a graph like steps going up and down. Because our devices are designed for the pure sine wave in our homes, a modified sine wave is obviously less desirable. Different devices respond differently to modified sine waves, anything with an AC powered motor tends to have the toughest time and in some cases not work at all (like a ceiling fan) depending on the quality of the modified sine wave (how many steps).
DC > AC
Converting the DC from our UPS's battery to AC requires what we call an "inverter", a device that switches the power back and forth between positive and negative and also increases the voltage. A basic inverter that produces a modified sine wave will power most things but might have fewer steps between voltages to make the transition. A nicer one might have many more steps but the nicest inverters will actually fully simulate the smooth sine wave we have in out homes.
An inverter that produces a pure sine wave will be much more expensive but has a few benefits:
UPS
As far as a UPS goes, like I said, modified sine is usually fine and getting a pure sine is not usually worth the extra cost. If you loose power frequently and have a ton of money in equipment invested already, then maybe it's worth it to you.
If your new to choosing a UPS you should also know that all these UPS in this form factor will basically have the same amount of run time. They all have a ~9Ah battery in them and the only difference besides features is how much of load the inverter can take. This inverter has a very high load capacity considering its size and battery capacity and would work for almost any PC, even with multiple monitors, router and modem hooked up. The catch is that if you run this at capacity you might only get a couple minutes out of it. If you are more interested in run time you would want to get something more like this that has two batteries: https://amzn.com/B000FBK3QK
What is your budget? MediaSonic makes decent enclosures for the price. You can always go fancy and get a Synology if it fits your budget or DIY if you like the customization.
I was in the same situation, I ran out of space in my case for drives. I am using a USB enclosure for Plex and it works great:
Mediasonic ProBox HF2-SU3S2 4 Bay 3.5" SATA HDD Enclosure - USB 3.0 & eSATA Support SATA 3 6.0Gbps HDD transfer speed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003X26VV4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pGIiDb44DMDJJ
Mhm that’s why. I’ll provide the links below to the two things you need. First, I’ll give you the link to the SD card I bought. You don’t need this if you already have a micro SD card you want to use. Now the important thing is this adapter. It allows you to put in a micro SD and put it in the psp.
Micro SD card:
Adapter
Here is another adapter where you can insert two micro SD cards and it will combine them, if that’s something you are interested in. It’s a bit overkill, but that’s what some people want!
Dual adapter
Hope this helps!
First of all: Screen Protector. Once it's on you never notice it, doesn't hurt to get that extra safety!
I've bought 10 games so far, and I'd say get all of these because I have enjoyed them. BOTW, Splatoon 2, Sonic Mania, Rayman Legends, Dragon Ball Xenoverse 2 (assuming you like DBZ,) Mario Kart 8 Deluxe, Pokken Tournament DX, Street Fighter 2 Ultra, Mario + Rabbids Kingdom Battle, and Yooka Laylee.
If I had to pick 3 for you to get to start out then I would pick Breath of the Wild, Splatoon 2, and Mario Kart 8 Deluxe. I think that's enough variety to keep you busy for awhile.
A carrying is always a good thing, I'd recommend This case because it's the one I use and does its job.
Accessory wise I have joycon grips which are AMAZING when playing with one joycon.
Also, the grip it comes with is trash. Get the Power A Grip it feels A LOT better in your hands.
As for SD Cards, it depends. I have a 32GB SD card. I mainly buy physical games, The extra space is for screenshots and videos, and download only games, like Sonic Mania, Yooka Laylee, etc. If you're going for digital only then get a 256GB. Sure you won't use a ton of space now, but you might a few years down the line. Also, do NOT get the official Nintendo ones. They are a RIP-OFF! Here are some nice alternatives that will get the job done for A LOT cheaper: 32 GB 64 GB 128 GB and finally 256 GB
If you have any other questions feel free to ask OP, and other (potential) switch owners!
Quick edit: sorry that some links won't be put with the text, no idea what the issue is
I can't live without the numpad either, but I also need a lot of space for my mouse (very low sens), so I've kind of got the best of both worlds, with most of my keyboards being smaller form factors, and then having a separate numpad off to the side. I have this guy but there are a lot of other options out there.
logitech mx518
It was cheap and had good specs, so it was supposed to hold me over for a couple months. Damn thing is over 10 years old and won't die. It's younger brother (g400) is damn near industructable (seems to be more than your budget, I paid less than your budget though)
I used THIS, THIS and THIS to extend my Pimax. Works great, no problems.
Please use this link to donate with AmazonSmile
The G400 is basically an updated MX518, for 35$.
ARCTIC Breeze Mobile - Mini USB Desktop Fan with Flexible Neck I Portable Desk Fan for Home, Office I Silent USB Fan I Fan Speed 1700 RPM - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003XN24GY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vkB0CbKWGXCVB
You should be able to use your controller. The gamecube adapter only needs 2 USB slots max, and the switch has 3.
I you're worried about it, get a small USB hub to bring to tourneys in case the setups have no spare ports open.
Have you tried one of these? Super portable and works well. Only $10 on Amazon, too.
Anker 4-Port USB 3.0 Ultra Slim Data Hub for Mac, PC, USB Flash Drives and Other Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tETlzbHY7C93R
$20 on Amazon
I'm surprised that after all this time your family hasn't bought security cameras... here I'll even give you a link
Buy a few of these, hang them under your front porch.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073MF6D35/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Get some of these too:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010Q588D4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Make sure audio recording is legal in your state. These aren't weather proof but they are stupidly simple to setup and all you need is to get them power. If you don't have a plug near by use a light bulb socket and put an adapter in it. 6 Years without installing cameras and all this crazy shit going on, naw it's time to get some evidence. Light your yard up like a football stadium and record the shit out of everything.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DKXXAAQ?pc_redir=1404699366&robot_redir=1
The strips may be fine but I've seen far too many reports of their UPS's catching fire to trust their engineering. Their top selling UPS on amazon has 3 pages of people saying it caught fire
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Outlets-Mini-Tower/product-reviews/B000FBK3QK/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_viewopt_kywd?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=one_star&reviewerType=all_reviews&pageNumber=1&filterByKeyword=fire#reviews-filter-bar
PC Setup (Generated from my old spreadsheet)
Comes to roughly $1,963 for the tower itself which is pretty cheap all things considering
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If you are interested in my monitors at all, I'm using the following
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Other
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This would have been a perfect opportunity to generate affiliate links, but I don't care. Hopefully that helps!
Your link leads to a different color. I think this one will work.
I would say good price, but Amazon and probably the driver will probably expect you to tip. Still makes it lower than Black Friday Price. Then again, some colors are below Black Friday pricing on the regular site right now too, which is a bit hilarious seeing how much attention the Black Friday sale got.
I've been having success with:
I have the Logitech G400, and based off of it, I would recommend the Logitech gaming mice very highly, especially for this price.
For everyone in Germany. I can confirm these two cables work flawlessly, giving together 6.8 meters of freedom.
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Tested link with Doom VFR and i was impressed with the quality in direct comparison with my Rift S. I would say it has 80% of the picture quality, but quests Oled has better blacks. i could not see any latency in native oculus games. In steamvr there was a slight handtracking latency, but it was absolutely fine to play.
So i am really considering selling my Rift S.
There was some guy who tested a bunch of extenders with the Rift sensor on youtube.
I ended up ordering this one because as I recall he determined this was the best passive extender:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/
http://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Numeric-Keypad-Jelly-Comb/dp/B01E8U8HKW?ie=UTF8&keywords=Numpad&qid=1464402235&ref_=sr_1_3&sr=8-3
It even looks nice sitting next to a K65...
Havent seen much of anything.
Thinking of grabbing this
SanDisk Ultra 64GB microSDXC for $18
I'd recommend a premade solution such as the Gameduino. It takes a SPI interface and uses an FPGA to generate a VGA output.
It's meant for use with an Aduino, but it's just a standard SPI interface which can be bit-banged with a variety of 8-bit chips. Here's an example of a Gameduino being driven with a Commodore 64.
edit: You'd have to combine the gameduino with something like this VGA to HDMI adapter. If you are particular about DVI, you'd have to chain a HDMI to DVI cable to that as well.
I have this 1 a bit pricey but going on 4 years now it's likely due for a new battery soon it's still working like a champ CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS System, 1500VA/900W, 10 Outlets, AVR, Mini-Tower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429N19W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_evHzDbX6ZCYSE
Here's one on the higher end for personal computers.https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W
I run two at home for my desktop and media server, and a few dozen at work for the more critical user desktops.
Their price right now is just dumb, but if you watch sales I've seen them go for $120.
For computers, I recommend either of these units (or their lower wattage siblings where appropriate):
For networking equipment, something much lower end like the APC BE600M1 would be fine.
> Bonus points: simulated sine vs true sine; marketing gimmick or worthy investment?
Depends on the use case. For nearly any modern computer, you'll want true sine wave. Stepped waved UPSes often cause issues with modern 80+ certified PSUs which use Active PFC.
For other devices that don't have Active PFC PSUs, or just aren't all that sensitive, stepped wave is fine. Things like networking equipment, phone chargers, etc are fine on stepped wave.
Enjoyed 7 days without power (and therefore Internet) after Irma, and that's why I now have one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00429N19W
Just look at their store, everything is priced with the same pattern:
Logitech G400 $138.31 other sellers $68.89
Logitech G Driving Force Shifter $229.99 other sellers $55
Logitech MX Sound 2.0 $299.99 other sellers $99.99
Logitech HD Pro Webcam C910 $293.19 other sellers $50.99
Do you still want to argue if this is an algorithm bug or a scummy seller issue?
Following is my configuration built 2 years back.
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
Motherboard: Asus Z97-PRO ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory: Kingston HyperX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Sandisk Ultra Plus 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 760 2GB DirectCU II Video Card
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Power Supply: Cooler Master VSM 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply
Case: Cooler Master Storm Enforcer SGC-1000-KWN1
Dell S2240L 21.5 inch LED Backlit LCD Monitor x 2(Got these two for a steal at the Flipkart Big Billion Day Sale)
Cooler Master Keybord & Mouse Devastator Combo SGB-3010-KKMF1-US
Right now playing SOMA.
I'd say for me, if I were making my own home office and wanted to trick it out:
At minimum a dual monitor setup, but it would be nice to have 3 (I have dual monitors and also the laptop screen running them so it works out to 3.) A nice monitor arm that will hold both (or all 3) monitors to keep the desk clutter free. Something nice that makes both monitors adjustable for you (maybe even a 90 degree rotation so you can code on a vertical screen when you feel like it.)
A nice condenser mic with an arm for it as well. I figure if I were working from home I would probably be doing conference calls more regularly than if I were in the office, so a good condenser mic will make my life easier and make sure I can communicate well. Maybe a blue yeti or blue yeti snowball with a nice boom arm for it like so so I can use it when I want it and then push it away when I don't.
In the same vein, a decent webcam that can clip on to my monitor (or buy one of the above boom arms and attach the camera to it, probably smart for only $15 so you can move it around.)
Definitely a great office chair since you can justify the expense and you're going to be sitting all day.
This one is great regardless of working for home or working from the office, but a nice mouse. I just got a Logitech G502 the other day for gaming as well as work purposes and MAN. I never knew what I was missing out on. I have thumb buttons/extra buttons programmed to copy, paste, delete, winkey + e to open an explorer window, ctrl + t for new tab, and also a key combination to switch my active window to my other monitor so I can quickly move stuff between them without having to click and drag.
Since you're working from home and don't have to worry about bothering other people, I'd definitely buy a nice mechanical keyboard. They're a dream to type on. I used to have an office to myself so I bought one and I miss it dearly now that I'm in a cubicle. In my opinion, well worth the expense.
Again since you're not in an office you could get a nice speaker. Bluetooth to keep the cord clutter down but really anything works. You can go budget or big here.
If you're a whiteboard person, a whiteboard to hang on the wall.
Definitely yes to the dock. I have one here at my office and it's so flipping nice being able to plug in one thunderbolt cable and keep the clutter contained to the back of my desk behind my monitors with the dock.
I'd probably buy a nice standing or desk light that still uses filament bulbs to make it warm/easy on the eyes. Ample lighting. And probably a plant or two just to make it look nice and feel good being there.
That's all I can think of. Can you tell I'm living vicariously through you? I know you said must haves, so if I were going to buy the above in order, it would be monitors > dock > mouse > blue yeti snowball > mic stand > camera > camera stand
I ordered the Blue Yeti Blackout Edition earlier today off of the Amazon Prime Now site for $66.02 shipped.
It began at $71.09 and then I used the 10PRIMENOW code for an extra $10 off. This left me, after taxes, at $66.02 shipped. Not to mention that Prime Now got it to my door in two hours.
So, you can give this link a try, if you're looking for a mic at a similar price point. https://primenow.amazon.com/dp/B00N1YPXW2?m=A1VPEJV7O66L91&qid=1482086910&sr=1-0&ref_=pn_sr_sg_0_img_A1VPEJV7O66L91
I'm slightly older if that really matters. Here's my advice.
One thing you can do right now without buying anything is to remove the stickers off of your laptop. Seriously, it makes a difference.
For all my recommendations I'm going to list price first as I imagine budget being a concern.
$5 - Do you only use the external drive when at your desk? If so, mounting it to the corner of the desk, the wall, (or if you ever pick up an external monitor, the back of that) might look cleaner.
I use this stuff to stick things - https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-051141397252-Extremely-Mounting-414P-ST/dp/B018GKCI82/ You can find it at stores like Target.
With all the cables coming out of your laptop, I think a USB hub would really help your setup as all of the cables would go directly into one place. If your laptop has a USB-C port and supports charging over it, you can get a USB-C hub so you can connect peripherals and charging over one cable.
$15 - If you don't have USB-C, something like this looks good - https://www.amazon.com/Anker-4-Port-Macbook-Surface-Notebook/dp/B00XMD7KPU/
It has four USB 3.0 ports and is very clean and small. However, the cable is a bit short.
Around $79 - If you do have USB-C, I have this hub and it's pretty good, however the cable is short and can feel a bit loose at times.
$25 - A basic colored mousepad might look cleaner if you want to go for that look. I have this mousepad and recommend it, but it's all personal preference.
$35 - I think you should pick up a headphone stand so the grease and oils don't get on your laptop screen, I recommend this one - https://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Aluminum-Headphone-Stand-Holder/dp/B019PI9QFC/
It gives you three extra USB 3.0 ports, a headphone jack and comes in four different colors, and has a solid aluminum build. If you don't need those extras, this stand is still aluminum and comes in at $12 - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GZFX6ND/
Probably around $100-$150 - The biggest upgrade you can make here I think is an external monitor and keyboard. It would improve your setup's ergonomics significantly. This desk looks pretty small, so I would recommend something no bigger than 24 inches in screen size. The resolution of the screen and such would depend on what you want and your laptop's power. However, I highly recommend at least 1920x1080 resolution.
$25 - If you ever do decide to upgrade to an external monitor, you probably wouldn't be able to use two screens on your desk, and the closed laptop would take up way too much space. I would recommend this laptop stand - https://www.amazon.com/Vertical-Adjustable-OMOTON-Aluminum-Chromebook/dp/B0769G51R7/
I have it myself and it's very well built, adjustable, and makes things a lot cleaner if you use an external monitor. It has branding on one side but if you flip it you can just use the side with no branding so it looks super clean. You can make it very stable on the desk with some simple double-sided tape.
That's all I have for now. Enjoy your setup!
Not sure what the difference between them is but a similar sandisk ultra microsd 200gb is on sale on amazon for $65.
https://www.amazon.ca/SanDisk-Ultra-microSDXC-Adapter-SDSQUAR-200G-GN6MA/dp/B073JY5T7T/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511455720&sr=1-2&keywords=SDSDQUAN-200G-C4A
The 128gb is also on sale for $39.
Note that Amazon has the newer SDSQUAR with 100MB/s read speeds for $49.99 (temp out of stock)
https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Numeric-Keypad-Jelly-Comb/dp/B01E8U8HKW
Hay microSD de 200GB a 37 dolares (25~26 lucas, contando envío) en Amazon (Destaco esta porque sale 29.99 así que no cobra aduanazo)
200GB is $35 less, easy call imo. You're not likely to miss 56GB when you've got this much.
FYI, Amazon has CyberPower's 1500VA PFC Sinewave UPS (CP1500PFCLCD) on sale in both USA and Canada for $119.95 US or $155.99 CAD.
Amazon.com page
Amazon.ca page
I've been tracking the Canadian price at about $270 - 299 the past few weeks, but the lowest I've seen in for is $149.99 CAD in previous Black Friday deals.
Not sure how many F keys Windows would recognize but regedits (with SharpKeys or directly in the registry) would always be recognized.
The thing is that you need one that outputs numpad codes. If you do not get that, the numpad will output the numrow scan codes and remapping the numpad will remap the numrow above your alpha keys.
Here is a numpad for $20. It will output numpad codes that you can remap in the registry to be anything. It uses mediocre Cherry MX Blue clones but they aren't the worst. They are blue clones though so they "click" when pressed.
http://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Numeric-Keypad-Jelly-Comb/dp/B01E8U8HKW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463856981&sr=8-1&keywords=jelly+comb+keypad
Logitech G400
This is why I was thinking it would have been nice if we created a list from the start where we compile what hardware works and what doesn't, both for USB cables, and HDMI, and motherboards too.
But in any case, if it's useful, these work for me:
http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
http://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Extension-Cable-10-FT/dp/B00GBBSZFE/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
How about 10 more feet?
Only $6.
power:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FT9VW0O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_WTxdxbG2WKX4D
Usb:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_YGxdxbPW3R45Z
HDMI:https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Commercial-Premium-Female-Extension/dp/B004C4SECG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1460784534&sr=8-1&keywords=Monoprice+Commercial+Series+Premium+10ft+24AWG+CL2+High+Speed+HDMI+Cable+Male+to+Female+Extension+-+Black
I used black electrical tape to group the cables together after stretching them out and it works great. I accidentally made the usb to tight and occaisonally it pops out during transportation but rarely so if your going to group them together make sure they have enough slack.
These should be everything you need and I've tested them with just the Oculus and they work perfectly:
You could get a 2-pack of the USB extender which may work with the camera as well.
Here's the items I purchased to extend the headset 10 feet.
Power cable- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FT9VW0O/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
HDMI- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JJ517VI/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
USB- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C7SA21U/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I also went with a 1/2" braided sleeve to hold them all together. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ZATN3WI/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Edit: Including like where I got my info originally. https://www.reddit.com/r/Vive/comments/4eiqda/10ft_extension_cables_after_the_breakout_box/?sort=confidence
I have mine attached to this
Anker 4-Port USB 3.0 Ultra Slim Data Hub for Macbook, Mac Pro/mini, iMac, Surface Pro, XPS, Notebook PC, USB Flash Drives, Mobile HDD, and More
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00XMD7KPU
Overall they seemed like decent beginner tips, however
More lies to keep the propaganda machine burning.
Oh no, the Black Yeti Mic on amazon is more expensive than the Silver Yeti Mic. They're clearly being racist!
Or, you know, companies have MSRPs and buying things in bulk can reduce the price. Which do you think sells more, the gender neutral scooter, or the pink one?
It's a free market, ladies. Companies wouldn't charge you more for pink shit if you didn't fucking buy it. That's not sexism, that's the difference between an informed consumer and a useful idiot.
Occam's razor is the quick death of most misogyny claims. "Is this a global conspiracy against half of the population?!" .. No, it's just you being a fucking tool.
CPU
Mother Board
GPU
8GB of RAM
1TB HDD for way more storage space then a console. You could drop the storage space to match a console and save a bit of money, but we won't do that.
PSU Cheaper/lower wattage for this build is possible, but it's better not to skimp
Disk drives are dying out and everything is going digital. Even consoles are showing massive growth in direct game purchases and downloads from PSN/XBL. But here it is if you want one.
Here's a few cases 1 2 3 4. Pick your case based on style, USB ports, whatever. All of those are 30 dollars or less and are mATX, meaning smaller form factor.
So now peripherals. Need a monitor? No you don't, plug it in to your TV. HDMI just like a console and consoles don't come with displays. You might have a monitor already.
Controller/input devices? PCs can use the old controllers you have laying around. Here's a keyboard and mouse recommendation anyway if you want one or don't already own them since most people own a computer for stuff outside gaming. That costs around half the price of an OEM console controller and KB+M is a more accurate input method. Controllers are a comfort thing and are best suited for driving games, but point and click with a high DPI sensor is much more intuitive and accurate than a controller with bad input filtering and clunky auto aim. Microsoft tried cross platform and keyboard and mouse destroyed gamepad/controller players. The only real cross platform right now is Rocket League because controllers are the better input method for driving so it's equal footing. But if you're playing Rocket League on PC, you load in faster. You'll be sitting on an empty field while you wait for other players to connect before the countdown and stuff starts, kinda neat. Also, that one I recommended has a button to change DPI/sensitivity on the fly, no need to bother with settings menus. Seamlessly go from sniping to roaming to driving. The keyboard is back lit and has a few color options.
Operating system? GNU/Linux is free and is getting more and more gaming support every day. It's not as hard as people make it out to be. Get a basic/user friendly distro like Ubuntu and all you really have to do is install. If you're a masochist, a developer, or a masochistic developer get a tougher distro like Gentoo. Funny thing as well, games with Linux support run better on Linux since it's such a great operating system on the software level. SteamOS is also free. Want Windows? Download the OS and put it on a disk or flash drive, install it on the new computer and enter the product key. Where do you get a product key? Don't buy it from a big box retail store for 100 bucks or likely more, you're getting gypped. You can buy 100% legit product keys online. r/microsoftsoftwareswap sells them for 20-25$ and the keys are straight from Microsoft
Also, all of those listings are from Amazon and are Amazon Prime eligible (for the other guy that replied to you that wants to complain about rebates/shipping/living next to a MicroCenter). You can find a lot of those parts cheaper and/or with free shipping. I recommend NewEgg. So you can do even better than the price I'm about to give you (which also means you can get better hardware for better performance):
Here's the itemized list with the prices: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/QBVRNG
$448.51 total for a PC that is massively better than current gen consoles. Drop the unnecessary DVD drive and the keyboard+mouse combo and the PC itself comes in at $402.93.
So... brand new parts from a large online retailer with a great support system. You can get even better deals on the parts if you checked other great online retailers like NewEgg. Ten years ago consoles absolutely made sense, but now leaps in hardware design have made better hardware cheaper and the tables have turned.
Does that "come close without cheating"?
Here's a few more kickers now that we have the hard price set:
AMD and Nvidia are about to launch a new line of GPUs, meaning current prices will drop (better performance at lower cost on that build I just gave you) and AMD is specifically focusing on lower/mid range market with higher performance and efficiency. It's going to be great for mainstream gaming rigs.
PC gaming is usually cheaper over time because Intel/Nvida/AMD don't charge development fees (they can't), neither can EVGA/ASUS or whoever makes the parts, neither can Microsoft. Steam takes a cut, but so do stores like GameStop. Stuff like that is why Steam can have massive sales consoles can only dream of and the developers can still profit from a sale. The only reason PC games are 60 dollars like their console equivalents is because it's the standard and they can "get away with it" (especially if you're Microsoft trying to expand Windows 10 and not alienate XBox), but they can make the same or more per sale at a lower cost.
PCs also have the largest game library of any platform and the massive free to play library that comes with it as well. And it's really free, not 'pay 50 a year for a subscription and get to play a game for a month' free
PC is, in theory, forever backwards compatible. Want to play CoD4? Don't shell out the money for Infinite Warfare, just install CoD4 and play on the servers PC still hosts. Games that came out upwards of 10 years ago can still be installed and run with no issue.
You don't have to double spend. No buying a console and a computer for work/school. Put your 300 dollar home computer and 400 dollar console prices together and you made a huge leap in budget to built a killer PC. You also get a much more versatile platform capable of running much more stuff and you get so much more control over your experience.
Here’s the same thing on Amazon for $9: Sabrent 4-Port USB 3.0 Hub with Individual LED Power Switches (HB-UM43) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JX1ZS5O
Hey! Just buy a USB hub; it takes up one USB slot and provides usually 4. I added one that you could get.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UM43/dp/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1488202590&sr=1-1&keywords=usb+hub
I would definitely avoid that hub. With 7 external ports the internal design will be two USB host controllers daisy chained together so 4 of those ports will at a minimum have to go through 3 host controllers to send data back to the PC. Very risky and prone to issues which will be explained below.
Apologies for the wall of text but it is all quite important to explain why USB hubs are not the best idea for a number of reasons. Only go the hub route if you have no other choice like you have a laptop and a PCI card if not an option. If you have a desktop and free PCI slots then grab one of the PCI cards listed at the end of this post.
USB 3.0 Hubs
The main concern with hubs is that there is an additional USB controller in the chain and if one of those controllers is not compatible then you might have tracking issues. The issue with compatibility is VR needs low latency and high bandwidth which is required for good tracking.
So you have something like this using a hub.
PC -> PCI Bus -> USB Controller -> Hub -> USB Controller -> Sensor.
I put together this image on the weekend to explain it to someone else - https://imgur.com/jI6Istl
If anything in that chain is sub standard you have issues. If you have good USB Controllers in that chain you wont see issues. Just remember a quality hub is only as good as the USB port on your PC you plug it into.
It is also recommended to get a powered USB hub if you have to go the hub route. People sometimes encounter not just a bandwidth/latency bottleneck but a power bottleneck. Importantly some PC USB ports can't push out enough power to power all the devices plugged into the hub. Get a powered hub to avoid this possibility.
Below are two brands Anker and Amazon Basics which are the hubs I commonly see people say have worked for the Rift. The 7 port one will have daisy chained USB controllers internally but people have recommended it so they must be good quality.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80
or
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Portable-Adapter-Devices/dp/B00PBZX0OM
PCI Cards
Here are the cards that Oculus have recommended (I have personally tested the top two cards) .The blog posts at the end of this post might clear up why hubs are hit and miss for some people due to data/latency bottlenecks that might occur.
StarTek 2 port card (1 ASMedia controller) – Cheaper StarTek option that could be used for 2 sensors or a sensor and headset.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013HT6K3Q
Supported Inatek 4 port card (1 Fresco controller) – Don't get the 5 or 7 port card as the design is not really suited for Rift sensors as it has daisy chained controllers in the design.
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM
Use the Inatek for your two front facing cameras and nothing else. Plug your third or fourth USB 2.0 camera and Rift HMD into your motherboard.
Supported StarTek 4 port card (2 Controllers) – Optional middle tier PCI card solution which can run all four sensors or 3 sensors and HMD. Equivalent to two Inatek cards.
https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00HJZE9VK
Supported StarTek 4 port card (4 Controllers) – Optional top of the range PCI card solution which can run all four sensors or 3 sensors and HMD. Equivalent to four Inatek cards.
https://www.amazon.com/Express-SuperSpeed-Adapter-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S
Both 4 port StarTek cards are pricey and a bit more than is actually required. You could achieve the same thing with 2x four port Inatek cards.
More reading for why USB controllers are important and how you should connect sensors
Oculus put together some blog posts last year explaining best practices. Parts 2 and 3 of Oculus tracking posts explain the USB subsystems and how to get the best config.
Finally here is my setup and the placement of USB devices amongst all the USB controllers. https://imgur.com/a/fqgRP5p
https://www.pine64.org/?product=rock64-media-board-computer
https://www.amazon.com/ORICO-External-Enclosure-Supported-Silver/dp/B019HXSQ6K?th=1
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80
https://www.amazon.com/Converter-DROK-Adjustable-Stabilizer-Protective/dp/B01FQH4M82/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
What kid of power supply do you have? I wouldn't try to overclock the Pi with less than a solid 2.1 amp supply, and I do mean solid. Many people have found that some of the cheap 2 amp supplies don't really give 2 amps. This is also going to make the Pi more stable when overclocking. Google it if you want specifics.
Rather than buy a different WiFi dongle which may or may not work with your Pi, buy a powered USB hub.
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=sr_1_1
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=103&cp_id=10307&cs_id=1030702&p_id=5328&seq=1&format=2
You probably want a powered USB-A hub. This will allow you to plug everything, but also charge any devices that are plugged in. Does your hard drive have external power, or does it rely on the USB for power?
Something like this.
I gotchu fam: https://www.amazon.ca/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UM43/dp/B00JX1ZS5O
http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Optical-Gaming-High-Precision-910-002277/dp/B0055QZ216/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1373612084&sr=8-2&keywords=logitech+g400 i got this for like 25, probably not worth at its current price but it goes on sale often and is a great mouse.
I've successfully created a 10 ft (~2m??) extension beyond the break out box. Total cost was under $50. I have a 3.2m x 3.5m or so area and I have more than enough space. One thing I'd note is that the HDMI cable extension is HEAVY/THICK. After I put all the extension cables through the mesh casing, it makes the cable paclage very rigid. Still, this works flawlessly for me! Links to amazon below...
HDMI: Monoprice Commercial Series Premium 10ft 24AWG CL2 High Speed HDMI Cable Male to Female Extension - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004C4SECG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_2a4HxbGN1CTQG
USB: Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Qb4Hxb1AHSCGS
DC Power: Hanvex HDCA12 12 ft 1.3mm DC Power Extension Cable for Foscam, Agasio, Tenvis, Loftek Wireless IP Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FT9VW0O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_yc4HxbRGNZ5AB
1/2" casing sleeve: 1/2" PET Expandable Braided Sleeving- 10ft - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZATN3WI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Md4HxbR1Y7KTX
Warning: wall of text ahead. I'm going to recycle an older comment and make it more specific to your post.
It kind of depends. What CPU and GPU do/will you have? Do you have enough room to swing your arms while standing stationary? Do you like simulations, such as racing games or flight/space sims? These actually have an impact on the best headset (HMD) for you. I own the Vive (non-Pro), Rift, and Samsung Odyssey so my comments are based on use of all three.
Oculus Rift:
Lighter and easier to deal with. Has built-in audio. Some really nice platform exclusives, though there is a way to play those on the Vive. (More on that shortly.) Cheaper than the Vive, and cheapest option in general other than some Windows Mixed Reality HMDs that you should probably avoid. Tracking is, in my opinion, a little inferior to the Rift, even if you get a 3rd sensor. However, you can "fake it 'til you make it" on the Rift with only two sensors by mounting them in opposite corners of your play area. The Rift requires at least 3 USB 3 ports, or 4 if you add a 3rd sensor, so that's a lot of requyired ports. Seated/standing experiences work slightly better than roomscale, though this is something they've overcome with time. Games/apps purchased through the Oculus Store won't work on another HMD (barring 3rd party hacks/apps), limiting your future hardware upgrade options so buy any non-Oculus exclusives through the Steam store. Touch controllers are the current king for controllers, but Knuckle controllers for Vive/SteamVR are pending. (More on that shortly.) MUCH more pronounced "god rays" than the Rift. The business practices and politics of Facebook/Oculus are questionable, if you care about that sort of thing. Customer service is ticket-based only and there's no option for phone-based support.
HTC Vive:
The regular Vive is $100 outside your price point. The Vive Pro is more than double so I won't go into it much here. The Vive has significantly better tracking than the Rift unless you get at least a 3rd sensor, and even then there are sometimes issues. No built-in audio on the regular Vive but this is resolved with the Deluxe Audio Strap, albeit for $100 more. The Vive offers a better Roomscale experience, in my opinion. Games are purchased through Steam, which means you can take advantage of Steam sales, buy games at a discount (sometimes 80-90% off!) from third-party sites like Humble Bundle, Green Man Gaming, etc. Note, however, that the Rift is compatible with most VR games on Steam, too. You can also play Rift exclusives using free, third-party software called ReVive, but that this is not officially supported and YMMV. Not every game works. (Essentially, it tricks Rift titles into thinking a Rift is connected, and remaps the buttons to the Vive controller. However, since there are differences between the controller control types, this isn't always perfect.) Controllers are meh but work fine; just not as intuitive or comfortable as the Rift's. When (might be a while) the Knuckles controllers finally come out, they'll probably be the best. The Vive is more glasses-friendly but those who are just nearsighted won't necessarily need to wear glasses at all. There's a new wireless adapter that's nice but only applies if you're driving it with a desktop PC because it uses a PCIe card rather than USB. For non-wireless, however, one nice thing about the Vive is that the HMD only uses one USB 3 and one HDMI, and that's it. The Lighthouses (base stations) only need power and don't require USB. HTC support is both phone and ticket but is terrible either way. Some people have resorted to public shaming via YouTube/social media. YMMV.
Samsung Odyssey (WMR):
Higher resolution display, on par with the Vive Pro, which equates to a much less pronounced "screen door effect" (seeing the gridlines between pixels) than other HMDs. This is very nice for more detailed games like racing games or flight/space sims where you have to read a lot of small dials or text. Significantly lesser support for games and experiences. That said, just because an app doesn't explicitly state it works with WMR doesn't mean it won't work... but it might not. Controllers are pretty bad compared to the others. Tracking is also worse (uses inside-out tracking, so no sensors), but still significantly better than I thought it would be. This won't matter much if at all for seated or standing experiences; just for roomscale. The benefit is that you can do VR on the go with a gaming laptop. (At least a 1070 Max Q, though a full 1070 or 1080 is recommended.) The cable is significantly shorter than the others so, realistically, it's just a seated/standing experience. Roomscale is technically possible but severely limited. Also, there are specific cases (for example: archery games) where the controllers will end up out of view of the HMD's cameras, which will break tracking. Samsung's phone-based support is usually pretty decent, though I haven't needed it for the HMD yet.
Other Windows Mixed Reality HMDs:
The Lenovo Explorer gets some good reviews and sometimes goes on sale for as little as $170 with controllers. (Note: it can be found cheaper without controllers but you need controllers for most VR experiences, so...) It's important to note that the Lenovo Explorer (and all other WMR HMDs other than the the Samsung Odyssey) lacks IPD adjustment. IPD stands for interpupilary distance, which is the distance between your eyes. Everyone's eyes are a different distance apart but most WMR manufacturers didn't include this feature to keep costs down. However, using an HMD without the right IPD can cause nausea, blurriness, and headaches and can ruin your VR experience. I'd strongly recommend going with one that does. I haven't generally heard good things about any of the other WMR HMDs other than the Samsung Odyssey or the Lenovo Explorer. The others are relatively cheap but lack features, perform poorly, or both.
A note about VR graphics:
It really depends on the game. To avoid nausea, VR generally has to run at about 90 Hz, which can necessitate less comprehensive textures. However, people have done absolutely amazing things with VR to the point that you simply don't notice. A prime example of this is Lone Echo (Oculus only). The visuals are stunning, though I'd be remiss if I didn't mention the incredible story, method of teaching game mechanics, and the pure immersive feeling they pull off. Lone Echo is VR done right, and it feels like an AAA title. The Climb is another example of incredible visuals and reasonable immersion. That's the game currently making the rounds (again) of Reddit via this GIF. Skyrim VR is another example of impressive visuals in VR. Skyrim is somewhat dated, but yes; those incredible photorealistic immersion mods from desktop Skyrim work in VR and you can totally play Skyrim VR seated. All of that said... you are looking at a 1080p monitor magnified by relatively cheap optics no matter which rout you go. It's like looking at 1080p on a 70" screen from <4 feet away. You are going to notice the pixels, but you're also going to forget about it pretty quickly as you get distracted by the incredible experiences and other visuals. The only exception to this will be games with lots of detail like flight and space sims. Unfortunately, games like that really need higher res than VR can realistically provide right now. This may change with 20-series GPUs. For everything else, you'll probably mostly forget about the issue.
Roomscale:
Your roomscale abilities are going to be hampered by your small play area. Generally, the recommended minimum area is roughly 2x2.5 meters, if I remember correctly. Some roomscale games will refuse to launch with such a small area marked off. Others will launch, but you'll be unable to reach some things. Your play area will probably just barely suffice but you might need to "cheat" and mark off a slightly larger are than you actually have. The Vive and Rift both do Roomscale and seated/standing VR. WMR only does seated/standing VR reasonably well and is terrible at roomscale (due to the restricted cable length, not to mention poorer tracking) whenever you are able to make more room for it, and the controllers are much worse.
Cable lengths:
All VR HMD cables are a bit shorter than they could be. You can buy some extension cables, but some work and some don't... sometimes with no explicable reason. I've found that this HDMI cable and this USB extension cable work to extend the HDM for both the Vive and the Rift, and this USB extension cable works to extend the Rift cameras. If you decide to get both a Vive and a Rift, the extension cables I linked for the HMDs are able to go to the Vive's breakout box and then either the Vive or Rift can plug into that with success. The Samsung Odyssey does NOT work when plugged into the Vive's breakout box but I haven't yet tested the extension cables so it might work if the breakout box isn't present.
TL;DR:
At this point, my recommendation for first-time VR on a budget is the Oculus Rift. If you know you'll get into/stick with VR and can afford the Vive (so long as you can also afford the Delux Audio Strap), I'd recommend the Vive. The Samsung Odyssee is also a decent solution but at its price point I'd generally recommend the others unless the majority of your usage will be in highly-detailed simulators or similar games.
Yep I am using the 10 foot variant of each of these and they work great. The USB I have had for awhile as it came from my CV1 but the display port is new for the S.
&#x200B;
Display Port Extender
USB 3.0 Extender
USB: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
HDMI: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Both work just fine. HDMI cable is a little thick & stiff, but remember this is the section closest to your computer & doesn't get lifted/moved often (like the light cable that goes to your head).
In a forum post on Oculus quite some time ago cyber recommended the following pair which are in use at Oculus:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I can confirm they work for me for a 10' extension on the HMD. As a bonus there is now a break away for the cables that is not my motherboard!
For one sensor, this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
and for the other sensor, this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I was just looking into this one....not sure if I'll buy or not...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003X26VV4/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_7?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A2WSTUX2A6RQ1A
just get one of these
https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Breeze-Mobile-Flexible-Adjustable/dp/B003XN24GY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500522667&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb+fan
Amazon US and Amazon Canada.
Edit: this is far better quality, though. It is made from a computer case fan and will likely last you longer. Amazon US or Amazon Canada
LMAmazonTFY
Top result for "usb fan" in Amazon electronics
Absolutely. A standard UPS has special types of resistors and capacitors that either shunt large spikes (like from a lightning strike) to the ground pin, or self-sacrifice (blow themselves up) to take the brunt of the same. The regular wall AC voltage and frequency is still passed straight through. These sacrificial surge protection components only work when it's a HUGE spike.
The spikes caused by the collapsing magnetic field from the motor winding are small enough and last a short enough time (literally a snap, like a spark plug in a car) that a UPS doesn't "catch" them. The only type of UPS that would eliminate them are things like a pure sine wave UPS, where it takes the AC wall voltage, puts it through an isolation transformer and/or converts it to DC, and then re-converts that DC to AC. With those, you are effectively always running off of the battery, it just so happens the wall AC is also being used to charge the battery at the same time. Very rare in consumer equipment and fairly expensive.
Quick-ish explanation of isolation transformers: a regular transformer steps up or down AC voltages by having two wraps of wire wound around each other. The amount of voltage spike/drop is proportional to the number of wraps. If you have a transformer with an input winding of one wrap, and an output winding of ten wraps, you will get a 10x step up in voltage. 120V goes in, 1200V comes out. The input winding creates a magnetic field, and the output winding winds around that magnetic field, picking it up and creating an AC voltage. The reverse is also true: put 120v into the 10x winding, and 12V would come out of the 1x winding.
An isolation transformer is just an even number of windings on either side. For example, say 20 and 20. 120V goes in, 120V comes out, but there's no physical connection between the two. The electricity gets converted to a magnetic field, then back into electricity. Think of it kind of like a bungee cord in the middle of a rope.
The tiny, high-voltage spike from the bathroom fan wouldn't be able to affect that magnetic field in the isolation transformer (or, comparatively, not able to affect it as much), kind of like pulling that rope with the bungee cable in the middle. The elastic bungee would "smooth out" any small bumps or pulls from being felt at the other end of the rope, relatively.
I also still have a touch lamp. Somewhere...
I read your title and thought, "Hey, I'm waiting on my UPS too", then I realized we weren't talking about the same UPS.
I meant my CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS 1500VA 900W, MSRP of $260, snapped up for $130 when I saw it.
CyberPower CP1500AVRLCD
Edit: Linked the wrong model. I actually have the PFC model. It has saved my work and equipment from loss so many times.
I have my router and modem on it too. When the power goes out, my WiFi light shines bright.
Idk man, the picture looks fake to me.
Why would Logitech use the exact same render / photo angle of the original G400, when they haven’t used that style for years.
See - exact same image with just the logo / buttons shopped. https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Optical-Gaming-Mouse-910-002277/dp/B0055QZ216
Willing to bet that it's a jelly comb.
Https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01E8U8HKW/ref=oh_aui_i_sh_post_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Assuming I'm correct, do you find it OP? Did the weird parentheses buttons give you any trouble? (I've got one shipping to me as we speak)
Storage - https://www.amzn.com/B073JY5T7T
200GB of storage that should be plenty fast for emulators.
Case - https://www.amzn.com/B002VPE1QG
Cheap and has plenty of space. Has a semi-hard shell.
Screen protector - The IGG WIN 2s will have a screen protector included.
Power Bank - https://www.amzn.com/B077448WVD
There's plenty of options out there and this is just an example, but your biggest thing to look for will be Power Delivery. It's essentially the open standard version of Quick Charge, and the WIN 2 supports it.
All this being said, I wouldn't buy the battery or storage now. Prices are likely to drop (at worst, stay the same) between now and May when the WIN 2 starts shipping.
Mechanical Numeric Keypad,Jelly Comb USB Braid Cable Numpad 22-key Number Pad - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E8U8HKW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_034qxb5NWRHFF
Just got it in the mail, going to do some tests. Anything you want to know about it? It'll be my first mechanical Numpad. It's a bit clickier than I expected.
I'm currently using a Yeti Blue and a pair of Sennheiser HD598SRs. Planning on switching to a Modmic 5 in the future, for more easy plug-and-play with a straight headphone jack, rather than messing around with a USB mic that I have to unplug to switch my audio back to speakers.
Open Source Software
Proprietary Software
Hardware
Tutorials
You have a couple of options, but the webcam and mic just... aren't going to cut it. You'll never get the sound mixed right. Best bet is going to be capture the audio and video separately, then re-combine. The problem is I've never met a camera that really captures good sound. You can get decent sound by using a video-capable DSLR with external mic connections... but you'll spend $3k - $5k to get that sort of a setup working right.
I'm assuming the primary focus here is the audio, so you can probably get away with the webcam for the video, or any digital camera that's video capable. The key to making it look good will be lighting, more than the camera. If you have a couple of halogen worklights around you can use those as cheap stage lighting. Failing that, position yourself in the sunlight from a window. Make sure the background behind you is free of distracting stuff like old clothes, random papers, etc. Even a cheap, crappy camera can usually take decent images and video if you give it enough light to work with.
Software: You'll need something like Audacity - which is free and pretty easy to use. Does everything you need.
On to hardware: Two options. I'll give you the expensive one first, then the hackier way.
If you're going for absolute audio quality, you'll need a large diaphragm condenser mic. You'll want a mic for each channel you want to capture - so one for the vocal, one for the instrument. Expect to spend ~$100 per mic give or take. Monoprice has a decent one a little cheaper. Craigslist is a good source. When you get into mics, it's as fidgety a question as "which guitar is the best" - but that's your starting place. You'll need to run the mics into a mixer board (and condenser mics usually use phantom power, so your mixer needs to support that). Again, Monoprice has some decent sub-$100 options, or you can chase Craigslist. Figure this will cost you $300 to $350 after mics, cables, stands, and mixer. You can easily spend $$$$$$ as you get better stuff, but that's the basic setup.
The cheaper way - something like a Zoom H2N. Since these will do stereo recording, I tend to hang one off a mic stand horizontally halfway between my guitar and face. That lets me catch (mostly) the voice on the right channel and (mostly) the guitar on the left. After that I can do corrections and relative volume on each at least mostly separately.
The third alternative would be a USB mic like the Blue Yeti on the desk, use the computer's webcam to record video and the audio from the mic at the same time. I have a friend who's an operatic tenor, and he records his video auditions this way. I don't have the details on the software he's using, though. The H2N I linked above can be used the same way - put it in USB mic mode, record audio and video at the same time.
Given what you're trying to accomplish, I'd recommend the H2N, and depending on just how lazy you want to be either record separately and recombine, or use it as a stereo USB mic. But you really do want a way to separate the vocals and the instrument at least a little to fix specific things on each side and match the volumes a bit.
I didn't do a stunning job with it, but about 30 minutes ago I did a quick demo of a song on the H2n. I love mine, anyway...
Edit
You can also get a better USB webcam. Many Point-n-Shoot digital cameras also can be used as a USB recording device.
If all you need is extra usb ports then just get a usb hub
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-4-Port-Macbook-Surface-Notebook/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511929825&amp;sr=1-1-spons&amp;keywords=usb+hub&amp;psc=1
Well the other day Rasberry Pi 3 Model B was $28 w/ free Shipping so:
Raspberry Pi- $28
32GB SD card- $13
2.5A Power Supply- $10
Heatsinks- $5
Case- $8
HDMI Cable- $7
_____
Total- $ 71
I'd say it's an okay deal. I'd rather buy it bundled anyway, just so it all arrives at once.
SanDisk Ultra 32GB. If it works in your cam and records properly, you shouldn't have an issue.
I had an issue where various Transcend cards of mine wouldn't show up, would record a few minutes, etc.. This card worked fine in the cam, so I kept constant with the models as I scaled out.
Use Xiaomi Dafang Hacks as that repo is updated within the last 3 days, OpenIPC a few months, and that's what it was based on.
Format the card to FAT32. Make sure to do that. NTFS, etc. will not work.
Once formatted, clear the lot, and download the demo.bin.
Direct Download: https://github.com/EliasKotlyar/Xiaomi-Dafang-Hacks/raw/master/hacks/cfw/wyzecam_v2/cfw-1.1.bin
Rename that to 'demo.bin' and have NOTHING ELSE ON THE CARD. FAT32 + demo.bin by itself.
Insert card into camera with demo.bin. Hold setup before giving it USB power. Keep holding it. Plug it back in. Keep holding setup for 10 seconds after so it flashes.
After 2-3 minutes it'll reflash with an older stock firmware that will allow you to do step 2. Wait 3-5 minutes, and power down the camera.
Re-insert the card to the PC / Mac, and copy the full contents of firmware_mod to the SD card after editing /config/wpa_supplicant.conf.dist to include your SSID (wifi name) and PSK (password).
Make sure to rename it also to wpa_supplicant.conf.
After copying, make sure it's not within a folder on the SD card, but populates the root folder.
Re-insert the card, no need to press any buttons, turn on the CAM and you should find the camera on your network and can login to the interface as https://IP
Full Instructions
It's working great, pushing 430-450KB/s at 20-50% CPU and around 48MB used. Turned off audio and motion tracking to give the CPU a break.
Now I love this camera.
As requested:
Bartop kit - $139.99 link
Buttons - $66 link
Raspberry Pi 3 - $35 link
Raspberry Pi Case - $7.95 link
Power Recpetical - $5.99 link
USB Hub - $11.99 - linl
Zip Ties for cable management - $5.98 - link
External USB Ports - $11.90 link
Velcro Pads for mounting speakers and Raspberry Pi case - $2.98 link
64 gb SD Card - $24.88 link
HDMI to VGA adapter - $7.99 link
20 ft of 3/4 inch t-molding - $6.99 link
Total cost so far including shipping - $361.13
I've been running three of these Mediasonic ProBox enclosures for the last two years with zero complaints. I use the USB 3.0 interface though, not eSATA.
I added an eSata card and one of these
I turned my laptop into a unraid server. Bought a mediasonic box.
https://smile.amazon.com/Mediasonic-ProBox-HF2-SU3S2-SATA-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4/
Works wonderful
It's anyone's guess how accurate ASUS anti-surge is, but, if you have a lot of brown/blackouts in your area, you might want to look into a UPS which can save your PSU and PC from damage. Outside of that,
>If my PSU is going bad, are there any other signs it should be showing?
your PC turning off suddenly
I could give you a longer and more detailed answer if you want one, but I'm going to start simple.
The one edxmon linked would probably be fine. Depending on your rig and monitor size and blah blah you'd likely be able to squeeze between 4 and 10 minutes of run time out of it if all you connected was the computer, the monitor, the modem, and your router. The fewer things you connect the longer it would run (so leave the modem and router off the battery if you don't care about being disconnected from the net during an outage).
I don't actually get power outages much, but I do get a lot of periods where the lights in the house dim for a few seconds and then come back up, these periods can be dangerous for computers (in some ways more dangerous than an occasional outage) so I run something with AVR (Automatic Voltage Regulation, some times also called Advanced Voltage Regulation) which basically ensures that my computer gets a stable and level amount of power all the time, never too much and never too little, by using capacitors built into the UPS to regulate power flow.
This is the actual model I am using right now. I have one of my monitors (the primary one), the computer itself, the router, and the modem connected to it. This means that if the power goes out I don't lose what I'm doing or my internet connection. I've never actually run it until it died but it estimates 15 to 30 minutes of runtime for me in an outage (how much time you get varies greatly with what you're doing, your computer uses much less power when you're editing a document in word than it does when you're playing a game, so the times vary).
This model is inbetween the one linked by edxmon and mine in both price and performance but it still offers AVR.
One thing a lot of people overlook is using more than one UPS. Don't plug one UPS into another one (ever!) but you can connect two to the wall outlet and plug the computer and monitor(s) into one and the modem and router into the other. So if you wanted to start buy purchasing the least expensive one and seeing if it meets your needs you can do that and if it doesn't give you enough time (or you decide you want AVR later) you can buy another and divide items up between them.
Cyberpower or APC.
You're likely going to have to spend minimum $100 and have a size of at least 500W, and for three computers depending on the consumption, more like 750w. These usually come with the ability to power down a single computer.
These are the better "budget" brands of UPS units. Hopefully the unit has a voltage regulation feature for both dips and spikes.
Your electic bill will go up a bit, no matter what you do. Some are better than others.
I bought this a week ago when it was $94.95. Seems like a pretty good unit for the price and if you're looking to buy your first UPS I'd say this is a good choice.EDIT: Wrong model, I only read the brand name and the power rating. I bought this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FBK3QK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0027VT6V4?cache=3c75eca334deeb3b22de631ed4598fc3&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;qid=1411669228&amp;sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1
Don't worry about being "clueless", pretty much all of us were where you are. Years ago, I bought a Crosley at best buy because I just didn't know any better. These all-in-one sets just seem like such a great idea to uninitiated fools like you and me were. However, the truth is they are terrible. IDK about yours, but mine didn't even sound very good. Yes, it is ruining your records because the stylus is basically putting too much pressure on the grooves everytime you use it which damages them. IDK how quickly this damages them, you probably are fine so far.
Before someone comes in and gives you vague advice to buy vintage on Craigslist or eBay or a thrift store because you can get a much better table for the same price as what you have now, let me give you some advice, from one broke college student to another, that will actually be helpful. This advice is true, but it does not take into account the fact that you will need a preamp for this table which is something that boosts the naturally quiet signal. You will also need a receiver and speakers. You can find a receiver that includes the phono preamp, but still this is going to end up costing you over $100 at least. Not to denigrade this option, but there is an easier route for the broke beginner.
You can buy a new (or slightly used) turntable that includes a preamp. The most favored model is the Audio Technica LP60. I have this myself (found it for $50 on eBay) and can vouch for it. It does not have a counter weight for the tonearm, so technically you still will be wearing your records down faster than necessary, but it is MUCH better than how the table you have now is treating them, and to get a model with a counter weight you will be looking to spend enough to make the first option I outlined be the better route. So, with this model there is a switch to activate the internal preamp, which allows you to plug into any powered speakers that accept either RCA inputs or a simple line-in, which basically looks like a normal headphone jack. Which means all you need is the turntable and some speakers. With this model, a simple pair of computer speakers suffice. You can get decent ones from amazon (I have seen these dip down to $20 periodically and they aren't bad).
Hope this helps!
Edit: what albums do you have so far? What lead you to begin with vinyl?
First: Avoid the J-series Synology units. All J-series are meant to be cost-reduced, low power units, typically based on ARM processors. They will perform rather poorly, and be completely useless for any kind of video editing applications.
>So when I get a NAS, what can I expect?
Lower performance than USB 3, but greater convenience because all your devices can access it simultaneously. You're going to want your computer and the NAS to be on the same Ethernet switch. Don't even think about doing anything serious over Wifi.
>Would it be a good idea?
Yes and no. Yes, in that it could make a great backup target, and a handy way of storing non-video content for live use, like music libraries.
>How is performance when connected to a network?
Depends on the NAS and the network. As I just finished writing up over here the rest of the traffic on the network can play a role in limiting performance, and the functional capacity of the NAS itself also plays a very key role in whether or not it can keep up with what you demand out of it.
>Is it totally doable for live editing or is it best connected directly to my PC via USB 3?
Maybe. Depends on the footage you're working with. Unless you're getting a higher end model, know how to tinker with these things, and you're not working with like gonzo 4K footage it might work out, but USB 3 will deliver far superior performance, and it would be recommended you continue to work off something like this.
>I'm less concerned about RAID... I'm really only doing this so I can have multiple drives using one power cable.
No, you're getting involved with RAID, so you need to be concerned about RAID. I have a write-up in the Wiki about RAID that gives you a sort of 10-foot perspective on the thing. The RAID tech you invest in will determine how you move forward in the coming years in terms of data protection and storage growth.
And if all you care about is the power cord then you're getting into this for the wrong reasons. IF that's all you care about you could get a DAS solution. You could go with just a simple dual disk dock, or a dumb 'ole JBOD enclosure, or get some kind of real RAID solution, either by buying a card and building an array inside your computer or in some kind of external enclosure, or by buying a device that handles RAID internally and exposes itself to the computer as a single dumb disk.
>Currently looking into these two models:
Keep in mind that those are dual-disk models, which limits you to RAID0 and RAID1. This is quite limiting in terms of options, and in terms of volume. However upgrading capacity is cheap, since you only have two disks to replace (however this is only possible in RAID1, and impossible in RAID0 unless you've got enough external storage lying around).
I bought 1 already but want another. I'm new to this, so after shucking where can I place them? My only computer is a laptop so my options are either building my own server or finding a dock that can support multiple 8TB drives, preferably 4 ports. Can someone gimme an amazon link for something to look at?
I was thinking this https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-ProBox-HF2-SU3S2-SATA-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503137746&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=4+bay+8tb
But won't that not support plex transcoding?
> I feel like he’ll appreciate the full size since he’s a programmer.
This is potentially completely backwards. Programming isn't data entry, and a numpad is not required for most tasks.
I can't speak to his work style or personal preferences obviously, but many programmers prefer smaller boards. I get by with this.
I would say get the TKL unless you think he can go down to 60%, it's ergonomically better (keeps the angle of your shoulders better when using a mouse) and then you can get a separate numpad if he really needs it, that can be put away when not in use, or placed on the left hand side.
You could always get a stand alone number pad. It's not quite the same as having one connected, but it's close!
Edit: Here's a cheap mechanical one that Amazon even suggested on the keyboard's page. If you go non mechanical, you could get one even cheaper.
https://www.amazon.com/Sandisk-Ultra-200GB-Micro-Adapter/dp/B073JY5T7T
Non referral-bs link: https://www.amazon.com/Sandisk-Ultra-Micro-UHS-I-Adapter/dp/B073JY5T7T/ shows as $44.05 for me
Camelcamelcamel: https://camelcamelcamel.com/Sandisk-Ultra-200GB-Micro-Adapter/product/B073JY5T7T Looks like it was lower yesterday. Possibly it's a geo-tagged price setting. It's dropped quite a bit in the last year so even at the $44 price it's pretty decent.
200GB - $64.99
128GB - $38.99
64GB - $19.99
This? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073JY5T7T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Razer Deathadder
Logitech G400
Zowie EC2
These are the mouses that I would purchase today if I needed to replace my current DeathAdder 3.5g (in order of MY preference)
EDIT: Re-arranged the order. And to say that DollarSignBot is OP
I, like you, used to build computers about 10 years ago, right when I was getting out of high school and into college. I just recently built one again after being a mac/xbox user before, and it was like riding a bike again when it came to assembling it.
Some thoughts based on the computer I just built:
http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Optical-Wired-Mouse-910-001601/dp/B003B4BBFK/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=13489.68153&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=logitech+m100
I've got this one and its pretty good, really light so that helps with FPSing.
http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Optical-Gaming-High-Precision-910-002277/dp/B0055QZ216/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1348968046&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=g400
Haven't had first hand experience with that one, but I've heard good things about it
I've noticed a few other Logitech G-series mice in here, and personally, I've had the G500 for about 8 months now. It's fantastic, well-built, and I haven't had a single issue with it. I highly recommend it, or any of the other Logitech mice you see mentioned here, really.
I'm just going to upvote you and paste my comment here
I've had Plantronic's Gamecom 780 headphones for over a year now (purchased April 2013) and they're still going strong. When they break, I'm getting another pair.
It's a usb headset, with mic, and costs £45.
Purchase link (UK): http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0079G2Y52
4/5 over 92 reviews on Newegg link
4.1/5 over 791 reviews on Amazon UK link
4.2/5 over 2309 reviews on Amazon US link
In-depth review on Engadget link
The inevitable unboxing and review youtube link
Alternatively, get yourself a decent pair of headphones (several linked in this thread) and a clip-on mic like the Speedlink Spes Clip-On Microphone (£7)
Also, ITT: headphones and headsets massively over OP's £45-50 price range
These are amazing. They're not much to look at but they're really good sound and mic quality.
If you are dead set on a headset rather than going for a pair of headphones and a microphone, I would recommend the Plantronics GameCom 780 Headset. They should last you quite some time and are very comfortable to wear for extended periods of time.
Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:
Amazon Smile Link: http://smile.amazon.com/CM-Storm-Devastator-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B00DKXXAAQ/ref=sr_1_1
|Country|Link|
|:-----------|:------------|
|France|amazon.fr|
|Canada|amazon.ca|
|Italy|amazon.it|
This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.
Literally any hub that follows the USB3 spec should work. Try to get one that's powered (comes with a power brick you plug in) and isn't the cheapest thing you can find. This one works fine.
I seriously doubt that there's enough power for two USB drives. But you'll be able to make everything work with a powered USB hub.
-edit-
That link is for a 2.5A powered hub. If you've got older (or more power hungry) drives, you may want to get one with more power.
I really really really want a USB-C hub that just has 5 USB C inputs and 1 USB C output. Like this but USB C. I can't find anything because everything is just a dock for a macbook :/
This is just terrible. This is a solution to a poor design problem that should have been taken care of immediately after a mock up was made. Like many have mentioned, your hub is technically covering up the disc drive slot. Those ports are USB 3, something I am exstatic about that was added for these consoles, so the the power shouldn't be a problem for the hub unless plugging in 4 controllers....You know what this is all dumb. DUMB! If you plug in something to the usb it will most likely stay there forever. Your cable to charge the controller will be dangling there till you need it again. Plus I am certain Sony would make the plug slim enough to fit in their own designed space, and will be happy to sell you PS4 branded USB drives. What would one even need a USB flash drive for besides possibly taking your save games with you? The hard drive is upgradable to anything really right? Two terabyte hard drive inside, so just plug a Mood Light or fan in for no other reason then because you could.
TL:DR: You don't need this, it comes with enough usb plugs for whatever you might need. One for controller charging because everyone plays alone, and one for a God damn Mood Light because, FUCK YOU, that's why.
Cough.
Sure, for the adapter:
https://smile.amazon.de/gp/product/B01DPLRPZ8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
and for the fan:
https://smile.amazon.de/gp/product/B003XN24GY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Right now, at about 40% load, my "gaming PC" (plus primary monitor, an LG 34-inch ultrawide, my fiber modem, my router, my wifi access point and my Drobo NAS) is drawing a total of 387 watts per the control panel on my Cyberpower CP1500PFCLCD UPS ($200 at Amazon).
At this level of power draw, the UPS control panel projects 14 minutes of runtime. Keep in mind that flashing the BIOS is not a CPU-intensive process and the total power draw will be even lower during that procedure.
I own two of these. One for my PC and one for my networking hardware. Barely powers my PC ( I pull ~600W while gaming ), but gives like, 5-25 minutes of battery power. Auto shutdown too.
Cyber Monday deal... CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS 1500VA 900W PFC Compatible Mini-Tower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429N19W
Found 2 deals on pure sine wave cyberpower UPS
Newegg - Cyberpower GX1325U 1325VA 810W - $110
Amazon - CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD 1500VA 900W - $130
Edit: B&H Photo has the CP1500PFCLCD for the same price as Amazon.
I used a kill-a-watt to see what my power draw was. Then I made the calculations from the wattage draw. There are online calculators that can help. With the ups I bought I can get about 45 mins of uptime with an outage.
This is what I got.
CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS System, 1500VA/900W, 10 Outlets, AVR, Mini-Tower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429N19W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_uQYAR1HA6GHqI
Morning everyone!
Every once in a while I like to come in here and ask what everyone's thinking of buying.
Nice to get an idea about things that I might be interested in grabbing or something that I should get for some peace of mind.
Earlier this week, my CyberPower UPS arrived in the mail (delivered by UPS. Coincidence? I think not!) and I can rest easy now. We've had some power surges, brownouts and blackouts recently.
New G400 mice are still out there for sale. Two catches:
This (G400). Scientifically proven and endorsed by Ironfungus as the bestest mouse in ever. Perfect shape for any hand, as accurate as anyone would ever need, corded, but without being ungodly expensive.
Take my word for it and buy it now.
You can do this for Sentry if you don't mind some tinkering: https://github.com/marcone/teslausb/
&#x200B;
I started using TeslaFi two days after I got my car, I wish I'd done that from the beginning. If you want to try it a referral code can double your trial period (to a month from two weeks, I believe).
&#x200B;
This USB hub works great for all the stuff I have plugged in: https://smile.amazon.com/Anker-4-Port-Macbook-Surface-Notebook/dp/B00XMD7KPU/
You are really overestimating prices for most of that.
The controllers even appear to be the same ones from the photo in the OP.
All from Amazon and qualify for Prime. Just saved you $55.
You can get a single cable that is dvi to HDMI. No need for an adapter.
AmazonBasics HL-007347 HDMI Input to DVI Output Adapter Cable - 6 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8UQJY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HdUZCb09VYV5Y
https://www.amazon.com/Benfei-Bidirectional-Female-Adapter-Gold-Plated/dp/B07CXY79KR/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=hdmi+to+dvi-d+cable&amp;qid=1551277579&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;psc=1
or
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Input-Output-Adapter-Cable/dp/B014I8UQJY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=hdmi+to+dvi-d+cable&amp;qid=1551277579&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
Well in that case you might want to have a look at this cable on Amazon. The design is, as far as I can see, 100% identical to yours. You might want to have a lawyer look at that.
For what it's worth I have one of each and for me the Cablecreation one is currently proving more reliable than the Tether Tools one so if it's an imitation they haven't done a terrible job.
Lots have used them and reported working on here:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1pjMerZPmJgkqwMKeYzvy4yGzWu2bu_1T_6m3nNmJkBU/edit#gid=0
mine will be delivered today (I'll be testing it tonight), I will report back once I find out if it works or not.
These are the cables I purchased, both are confirmed to be working from others, if it works I will have a total of 26 feet for my Quest to PC setup. I will be testing them in about 5 hours from now:
Cable (10 ft version, which is sold out): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZIPYPY/
Extension: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8
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Edit: these both worked great for Link on the quest. I now have a 26 ft setup for only $24 total! The Anker cable even came with a Velcro cable tie i'm using to secure the cable to the headstrap so it doesn't yank out of the USB port on the Quest while playing a game.
Few useful links to get you started.
Oculus Rift Room Scale Setup Guide
List of recommended cable extensions
I'm using 3 Sensor setup in L configurations with CableCreation CD0034 and Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card. My sensors are mounted about 10 inches and 40 degrees away from the ceiling. Perfect tracking in the play area. Good tracking out of usual play area, when in bed playing seated games in view of only two sensors which are 12 to 15 feet away.
I run the Define S which has no drive bay, my cable for the external CD drive was too short so i purchased this hub and am ashamed of how long it took me to figure out the connection.
USB Hub: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
USB Drive: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OVX3H52/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JX1ZS5O/
This one has worked great for me. I've got two external HDDs connected (one USB powered and one dedicated power), my headset (3rd gen Astro A50, USB powered), and sometimes plug a flash drive in to upload photos for backgrounds.... Good speeds since it's USB3.0... I like that it's hot swappable too, because I can disconnect/reconnect my headphones anytime they have an issue by pressing the button rather than pulling the cable.
Anymore I don't generally take data recovery work on from people I don't know personally (just too much that could go wrong liability wise - I don't want to be the one to lose any irreplaceable pictures of grandma permanently) but I can give you some quick things you might try depending on how comfortable you are with electronics in general.
You said the drive isn't being recognized - is it making any new noises compared to when it was working? If you hear a repeating clicking noise, I would NOT attempt anything further on my own with that drive and in fact would not be turning it on any more if I could help it.
If it's not making a clicking noise but is still coming on and just not being recognized, it might just be the external enclosure/connector that's not working. If you're comfortable removing the HDD from the current enclosure, you can try the bare drive in something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Lay-Flat-Docking-EC-DFLT/dp/B00LS5NFQ2
If the drive still refuses to be recognized by the system, the next step is utilizing software utilities to check for a busted partition table. The knowledge level you'll want for both this step and moving on from here takes a significant jump up from steos previous so if you're a basic level user, I'd stop at this point and find a guy in person that might help.
It might be as simple as a repairing the partition table but if it were my drive, I'd be getting a new identical HDD and cloning it bitwise in an attempt to preserve the original if anything goes wrong and attempting the next recovery steps on the newly-cloned drive.
Hope this helps!
I used a 64 GB SanDisk USB drive for over a year without any issues and only upgraded to an external hard drive because it was running out of space. Older USB drives had a much lower tolerance for the number of read/writes they could perform. Newer brand name USB drives have a much higher threshold.
That said, if you can upgrade to an external drive, do it. Here's what I bought and it works great.
WD Hard Drive
USB Hard Drive Enclousure with power supply
the Blue Yeti is hard to beat when it comes to relatively-easy setups for different group configurations, as long as everyone is pretty close.
Something like this.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Lay-Flat-Docking-EC-DFLT/dp/B00LS5NFQ2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523306549
Take the hard drive out of the old system, plug it into this, plug this into your USB port on new computer. Find old files, drag and drop them into new system.
ASSUMING old hard drive isn't dead.
Without ever taking apart an Xbox One, I do know if you are able to remove the hard drive, all you need after that is either a toaster or an external enclosure.
The Desktop.
Was asked for a full parts list. Here is everything in one spot. (xpost)
^Note: ^if ^there ^is ^an ^error ^somewhere ^let ^me ^know ^and ^I'll ^fix ^it
So for recording with my Samsung Note 5, I use the voice recorder app already on there. I've never had an issue with it. I use the Stony Edge Lapel Mic, which just plugs into your headphone jack for anything with the phone now. Haven't done a commute ramble with it yet, but I will.
For other recording purposes, I use a Blue Yeti Blackout Edition, and have a Blue Microphones Snowball USB Microphone, Cardioid Mode(Gloss Black) for mobile use (i.e. traveling). I have a generic pop filter I picked up at a music store, and a DR Pro Tripod Mic Stand with Telescoping Boom for streaming and recording at home.
The Yeti is a pretty popular mid-price mic for GWA peeps. Snowball is a GREAT starter mic though. My dream mic is a toss up between the Shure SM7B and the AT2035 (both please?)
For desktop recording/editing, a lot of people use Audacity, which is what I started with. I now use Reaper Pro to record, and Izotope RX6 for editing.
Disclaimer: None of these Amazon links are referral links, and I earn no money from them
Rubber domes underneath the housing of the Cooler Master Devastator keyboard.
I have the keyboard mouse combo from Cooler Master and this Razer Keyboard has similar housing based on what I saw when I removed a keycap on the Devastator.
But PC gaming is too expensive
That right there is about $610.
A system based around the new Pentium G3258 and an R7 260 or 750ti will cost around $400. A decent gaming keyboard and mouse combo costs about $30. That leaves you with about $180 left to go ham on steam sales. Not to mention there's no monthly fee for playing online on PC. Then you get Mod support
Praise GabeN.
I recommend this. It is a great numpad for the money, and can be a great project if you want to change the switches it uses.
Just buy a separate tenkey, this one is amazing for $20. Plus it's not anchored to the side of your keyboard, so you can put it to the left if you prefer to enter data with your left hand or put it to the right of the mouse so your hands can be closer together.
Honestly, I just use this one. The switches are kind of shit in my personal opinion, but it's easy to take apart and desolder so you can solder new switches into it. It's cheap and not too bad looking.
To add on to the other answer, if you're into a really big SD card u/cowsareverywhere posted this on the switch subreddit. A 200 GB for 70 bucks.
https://www.amazon.com/Sandisk-Ultra-200GB-Micro-Adapter/dp/B073JY5T7T
Saves are stored on the system, not the memory card. So card corruption wouldn't hurt your saves. Wherever you read otherwise is false.
Currently the best deal on microsd cards. Or the 128GB for $29.
Nope, its 200GB. The 256GB ones didn't show up for nearly a year after I bought it.
I run this one -> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FBK3QK?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00. Got it on sale for $97. It can connect via USB to a VM running on ESXI that can send a shutdown signal to your other hosts/machines. Won't power everything for long but has some good configuration options. Overall I'm very happy with it.
I am currently using these http://www.amazon.com/Cyber-Acoustics-Subwoofer-Satellite-CA-3602a/dp/B0027VT6V4/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1416163849&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=computer+speakers
. How much improvement can I expect from these?
I've been using this for a couple of years with no problems:
https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-ProBox-HF2-SU3S2-SATA-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4
They have an 8-bay as well, if you want to go larger...
This little guy looks legit:
https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-ProBox-HF2-SU3S2-SATA-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
I have the ProBox and have been using it for a few years.
About a year ago I put a noctura fan on the back as the stock one was a bit loud. Over time
Works great
I recommend the Logitech G400. It's like the G500, but with less bells and whistles, and a better sensor. If you must have programmable buttons, just go with the G500.
A good attempt at the 'best of both worlds' is the newer G400S, but I don't have any personal experience with it. As far as I know, it's just an improved version of the G400, with more features.
Theyre discontinued now so I doubt you would find a new one. They were replaced by the g400 and that got discontinued as well. The next closest would be the g402 hyperion fury or the g403.
I've been using these for close to a year now and I'm loving them.
EDIT: Whoops, I see they're not so cheap now. I remember when I bought them they were around $50. I see the price has gone up since then.
Just got a Gamecom 780 and I love it: http://www.amazon.com/Plantronics-GameCom-780-Surround-Headset/dp/B00B1KJK22
Here's what I bought for USB and HDMI, and they work perfectly.
I'm on mobile and too lazy to edit links. Here ya go.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3zhDzbSZCTTRH
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ517VI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RBhDzb3RJK5NV
I use these usb cables
Cable Matters USB to USB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
And this hdmi
AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H91KE?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
If you want to do 10ft extensions on the Rift S you need high quality cables, at least for the usb 3.0. I use Cables Matters usb and displayport cables to do 10ft on my Rift S. Nothing I have seen will allow the Rift S to do longer than 10 feet extensions.
The amazon basics 10ft usb cable would not work for me and I returned it and the cables matter one did. You also need a good usb port, in my case I needed to order an Inateck ktu3fr-4p usb card to have my Rift S work without and black screens or static passthrough problems.
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Extension-Feet/dp/B00L1K1KDE/
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Extension-Black-Feet/dp/B00C7SA21U/
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/
Na klar! (Sure thing!)
Cable Matters USB extension https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Lindy Displayport extension https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00GUSALS2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
In case your Oculus Rift S Controller get stuck or the Passthrough doesn't work/shows snow, plug the cables out of the extension and in again. I had that once, probably because the cable didn't sit well and the USB-energy was cut briefly.
Get powered USB extension cables.
They have an amplifier build in.
Used them in other applications up to 15m.
http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00DMFB5OK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462274816&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+3+cable+active
http://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Active-Extension-Extender--Female/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462274816&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=usb+3+cable+active
I used these for the USB (5m or ~16ft) works with both Rift and Sensor): https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Active-Extension-Extender-Female/dp/B0179MXKU8
And a passive 3m (~10ft) HDMI 2.0 extension: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Microconnect-HDMI-M-F-3m-HDMI-Cables-HDMI-HDMI-Male-Female-Gold-Black/191955932795
They are connected to and work well with my ASUS Z97-K motherboard for the USB and a Sapphire R9 290X GPU (on of the Tri-X OC'd ones).
Ymmv.
Might be a difference in hardware, but I'm actually floored at how little latency there is. Any latency I felt I could effortlessly compensate for. Via Link, I played my usual Beat Saber Expert + maps on Steam VR. It felt damn near identical to my CV1 (tri-sensor setup) allowing me to get my usual scores. What really surprised me was the lack of occasional stuttering in Beat Saber I normally got from my CV1 setup. I can only describe what team Oculus has done as pure black magic! Like you said though, it's not on the level of an Index PCVR setup. But holy crap, at the price point and added portability, it's more than good enough for most!
For reference, my setup is: i5-3570K, GTX 1060 6GB, Inatek 4-port USB 3 PCI card, CableCreations USB 3 Active extension cable, and Anker 6ft USB C-to-3.0 cable. Might order the 10ft cable for more mobility.
It's not eBay but here's the cheapest one on Amazon.The only modern one I know of is the Ducky Pocket.
This one, I think. I own one and it's very nice for the price.
Sure! https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-USB-Powered-Portable-Solution-Gooseneck/dp/B003XN24GY
So one of these is a possible, and slightly ridiculous, stop-gap?
Hi,
We always encourage customers to try getting the most out of their machines before buying new stuff. However there comes a point when attempting to restore old equipment can lead to major frustration. The following steps can help and certainly worth a shot:
Cheers,
Dan
-----
P.S. The newer Surface Pro 2017 or Pro 6 with Core i5/8GB ram would be an excellent upgrade for you if you choose to go in that direction.
Battery backups, I have about 6. I got them for protecting my electronics but they come in handy for times like these. Plug an low watt LED bulb lamp into one of the packs for light.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00429N19W/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_NcilDb5CJP9DP
A Swiss army knife, cause you never know.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00006IS69/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_TeilDbK97VAKG
Food that can be heated with a camp stove, I got the camp stove, a small pot, and the food from REI. Not always needed it's there for emergency and camping. A long click lighter and the long lasting candle as backup. Most important water, I have a Berkey that holds ~3.5 gallons, it's for filtering but holds enough on days the water needs to be shut off for drinking.
Kind of makes me sound like a survival nut, haha, however, life has just brought me things for separate needs, works out.
I prefer CyberPower over APC.
I have this one (http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W/ref=pd_sim_e_12?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0GEVK7BJS39AB658HGJN) but it is available in a rackmount form factor as well. Super solid unit. Saved my ass more than once.
I use this cyberpower ups
I've configured my main pc to just shut down on power loss. which takes about 15 seconds. I tried to see how long it would run on battery, it ran about 40 mins. it runs my modem and router for about 2 hours. Mostly it just smooths out the power for me because the grid where I live is iffy. and it registers roughly 5-8 events per day. and Ive had it for almost a year and its still great.
Bummer. Here's another one.
The basic idea is you need a sine wave UPS to run motors, etc. There may be other ones that cost less, BTW, that was just the first one I found.
If you really want to get crazy, you can buy inverters that connect to 12v car batteries. I used to have one of these hooked up to 4 car batteries to run a small server farm. That thing would run for over a day, full load. Just be sure you get deep cycle batteries.
This is what I use and highly recommend. It's pure sine wave, cheaper than an APC and includes a super simple utility for configuring automatic shutdown. I had a simulated sine wave prior to this and although it worked my psu made a lot of awful noises when running of the battery so I'd urge you to spend the few extra bucks to get pure sine.
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W
The cli utility also provides lots of good info like remaining battery percentage, remaining runtime, and power draw. I found a nagios plugin for it and now I've got the data graphing in grafana so I can see how much power my server is drawing and average cost/year to run it. That part was just for fun of course but gives you an idea of how useful the utility is.
The cyberpower PFC line work pretty well, but run between $130 and $200.
Amazon Smile Link
I have the "Executive" model personally. The servers are on the bottom shelf (but I need to do something to make getting into the r510 easier since its the bottom of the two), the printer on the top, and the UPS sitting on the side in the closet in my office. Honestly, the loudest thing in the closet is a tossup between the UPS and the printer...
Just read your update. The BN600G is what we call a bottom-of-the-barrel UPS. It's just a simple switch-over UPS with surge protection. No filtering or AVR. It won't help you much at all if your house is suffering from poor-quality power. You COULD do what others have said and just try to power your PC using the UPS, but that el-cheapo UPS outputs square wave instead of sine-wave and newer PC PSUs don't like that one bit.
Step up to a better quality UPS like the Cyberpower CP850PFCLCD. You can get higher-powered models for a bit more. This series does AVR and outputs sine-wave that won't stress PC PSUs.
Holy frick that is so much cheaper than the Cyberpower one I was going to buy (two of!) from Amazon.
Thanks!
Edit: Oh, it's cheaper because, despite APC's claims of PFC compatibility, it's a stepped sinewave output. Rip. Thanks anyway!
The MX518 is no longer made and can be tough to find (though it is in stock at Amazon right now). Logitech just came out with the G400 to replace it. It's very similar in size, shape, and button layout with an improved sensor. I have a G5 and just recently bought a G500, they're both great. I wrestled between the G400 and the G500, but went with the G500 because it has adjustable sens, adjustable weight, and a laser sensor.
Also, don't forget about a good mouse pad! A good pad will improve your game at least as much as a good mouse. I have a Razer eXactMat (which is now tough to find) and a SteelSeries 4HD. I prefer the Razer, because it's aluminum and two-sided, but the SteelSeries does the job for half the cost.
The S only has three ports. I was in the same situation where one port was dedicated to an external HDD, the 2nd was for my headset and the 3rd port alternated between Wheel/Charge Cable.
I picked up the Anker and adhered it to the rear of my console. Problem solved and I can now use the Kinect USB adapter
So I've been wanting to make a thread about that, and I just haven't. Would installing something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_o94QybH7VVPMM
work in the back of the console? I want to add another HDD to my XB1s but I don't want it in front and my back two ports are used by a drive and Kinect. Would a hub cause a downgrade in performance? I actually don't really understand how they work truthfully, especially for an Xbox.
The way we do it:
- Use this Anker Hub
- Plug both your REB Hub & USB Camera into the Anker Hub.
- Hub USB connects to your phone with the OTG adapter.
- On the RC Phone: load a New Config; you'll see Expansion Hub Portal 1 and a Webcam. We didn't need to do any further configuration to the Webcam on the phone, so long as the webcam config name matches up with your code (just like calling a motor "left_front_motor").
Usb passthroughs are a more premium thing, and with a quick amazon search, I could not find one in your price range with a usb passthrough. You could always get a cheaper 1080p monitor, and get a usb hub
This is a good monitor
This is a good hub
Edit: formatting
If your apartment has wifi - https://www.amazon.com/YI-Wireless-Security-Surveillance-US/dp/B016F3M7OM/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503943457&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=yi+camera that is $40, get a micro SD too for $14 https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-microSDHC-Standard-Packaging-SDSQUNC-032G-GN6MA/dp/B010Q57T02/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503943550&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=32gb+micro+sd+card Then you can get text alerts as soon as they enter the apartment. Then call 911 and tell yourself someone is trespassing in your apartment, then dispatch the police.
I have 32 GB and I found myself playing maybe 2 or 3 games at any given time.
SD cards are cheap enough though that there's little point to getting a tiny SD card and having to pull your card in and out every time you want to play something different.
Smaller cards are also ridiculously expensive for what you're getting. A 32 GB Sandisk costs $10.59 or $0.33/GB. An 8 GB Sandisk costs $7.08 or $0.88/GB. You're paying 50% more for a 300% increase in capacity. It's a no brainer.
Anything wrong with buying new? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010Q588D4
SD cards are dirt fucking cheap
> The Monitor has hdmi, its the big hdmi that looks like this:
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8UQJY?aaxitk=wm4DHPoK6Ch3i6FApZf6Bg&amp;pd_rd_i=B014I8UQJY&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_p=54dc821a-0937-4e6f-9da9-f8dd5443145d&amp;pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&amp;pf_rd_t=301&amp;pf_rd_i=hdmi+cord&amp;hsa_cr_id=9375033550001&amp;sb-ci-n=asinImage&amp;sb-ci-v=https%3A%2F%2Fimages-na.ssl-images-amazon.com%2Fimages%2FI%2F41xlr1IK3JL.jpg&amp;sb-ci-a=B014I8UQJY
That's not HDMI, that's DVI. I'd say that's your first problem.
Get an HDMI to DVI adapter. Problem solved.
USB-C or USB 3? I can't think of any audio interfaces that use USB-C (correct me if I"m wrong here), and most MIDI to USB adapters I've seen also don't use USB-C.Actually looking at the specs for the macbook pro and holy god there's literally only 2 ports and they're both USB-C that's so awful. Like I said, most MIDI-to-USB adapters and audio interfaces use USB type A plugs, so you'll need an adapter or a hub anyway to be able to use them (might as well get both in one, imo).
If you get a USB C to USB hub, it would be USB 3 to USB 3, so they should all have the same speed (I think there are sometimes issues of having enough power to send to everything but don't quote me on that and as long as you don't have like 10 things plugged in you're fine).
Another option would be to get an interface with built-in MIDI support but tbh you'll probably need the hub anyways if you plan to do more than 2 things at a time ever.
(If you're not sure where to look, Amazon Basics has a Type C to Type A hub that's USB 3.1, or Anker makes a cheaper one that's got great reviews)
Evecase 5.6 x 5.6 x 3.5 inch Camera Bag.
Chose this after trying too long to find a 3DS bag that didn't have horrible straps. $16 with Prime
Anker USB 3.0 4* USB tap.
Obviously, you need to have more than 1 USB port to do much, like using a mouse with a usb drive.
$9 with Prime.
Cable Matters Mini HDMI male to HDMI Female cable 2 pack.
Minor shaving required. Not tested extensively.
$10 with Prime.
Lexar USB 3.0 Micro SD Card Reader
If you want to use a ferry card or temporarily pop your card of choice into a computer, one of these is incredibly helpful. Plus it's tiny. You can probably get one cheaper if you don't want the 32GB card included.
$33 with Prime.
Standard XBOne Controller.
Works without any need to mess with dongles on Windows 10. It'll even work with headphones/sets.
$35-$50ish, depending on color and luck.
Venom Xbox One Rechargeable Battery Twin Pack.
I don't recommend these in particular, but a rechargeable pack is a must if you don't want to guzzle batteries.
$17 with Prime.
Logitech Wireless Mouse M185.
Pretty reliable, but only has the standard 2 mouse buttons plus tilting and clicking mousewheel. Receiver stores inside nicely.
$13 with Prime.
Kid Icarus Folding 3DS Stand That I Had In A Box.
Needs a little rubber bumper to help secure the Win properly.
$10 with Prime.
Perrix Asymetrical Folding Keyboard.
This one might be tough to find, but it works amazingly. The weird fold system pushes the main hinge off to the side, so it is less likely to fold the moment you put it on your lap. It also completely hides the hinge when the keyboard is unfolded. A bit cramped, but the keys are properly clicky laptop keys.
For image and model reference
Anker PowerCore 26800 Portable Charger*
While looking for my power pack, I found this one. Seems to be a flat upgrade. 26800mAh with 3 4.8A output USB ports. Also has 2 micro usb inputs for double the charge speed?
$59.99 with Prime.
Other possible pack-ins.
Bluetooth Numpads.
If you're primarily going to be gaming, you might want to drop the full keyboard in favor of a bit of space plus one of these. Works nicely with a mouse if you rebind with HIDMacros. Also more tiny airport/college desk friendly. Example unit is $30
Similarly, you might want to try a half controller + mouse option using a device like the Nintendo Joy-Con's left unit. Drivers are still being worked on though, so only get this if you're up for beta troubles.
$50ish, but you can get lucky on eBay.
SanDisk Ultra Fit 128GB USB 3.0 flash drive.
The one in all the Win lists I've seen, but I figured I'd list it here for convenience.
$45 with Prime.
Batteries
All this stuff takes a total of 3 AAA (2 for the keyboard, 1 for the numpad) and 1 AA battery that will need replacing eventually. I hesitate to recommend rechargeable ones, as I have yet to find a micro charger for them.
Inateck USB 3.0 Ethernet + 3 USB 3.0 port adapter.
You might want to replace the 4 port one with one like this if you plan to do network maintenance, secure data transfer, or just plain download things quickly.
$20 with Prime.
PS4 Controller.
Some people prefer this to the XBOne one. It's lighter in the hand (and bag), comes with a built in rechargeable battery with absurd life, and has a touchpad with 4 physical buttons underneath. Can do some pretty crazy things with the touchpad via Steam's controller customization, but has weaker compatibility with non-Steam applications. Also works with PS4 Remote Play.
Worth noting that, unlike the ps3 controller, this can charge directly from any micro usb power supply. Headset support seems to require the official receiver dongle, sold separately.
Controller Alone: $40-60 Depending on color. Silver's cheapest.
Adapter Alone: $66
Controller + Adapter Bundle: $66
Budget 1 Handed Controller**
Hey, if you want to try 1/2 Controller + Mouse, why start off pricey?
$10
Phew, that's about all I have on hand.
This one?
https://smile.amazon.com/Anker-4-Port-Ultra-Drives-Devices/dp/B00XMD7KPU/
To go low budget and have the best build quality I would suggest the Acer Swift 3. The aluminum body makes it almost toddler proof. It has enough power to manage all you need it too and will last you through college. To get more usb ports you could use a hub
Hold my beer
USB long cable
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-6-usb-a-to-usb-a-extension-cable-black/5884106.p?skuId=5884106
USB hub
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XMD7KPU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495468602&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=usb+hub&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41kM%2BO9iEpL&amp;ref=plSrch
2 foot long USB hub
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ZR1TS96/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495468688&amp;sr=8-12&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=usb+extended+cable+hub
I bought this Anker last week with a 3.0 extender - after minor tweaking, works like a charm
Here's a charger for 3.99
You're spending too much on your hdmi cables, unless you're running 4K or need your Raspberry Pi for FPS games, then a dollar store one should be fine. Even some of those support 4K 60hz (hdmi 2.0)
Here's one for 1.50
As for the micro SD card, I would say you wouldn't need nearly that much space and MicroSD cards are getting much cheaper. Pi can only play old games which won't take up much room anyway. 16gb is plenty.
16gb
32gb
Or this one
So all in after the $35 pi, which if you're getting one of the older versions would be cheaper, it'll cost you just under 50 USD and you get the fun of building it.
Amazon has a 32 gig for $14
This is the one I use.
I use this one.
The other poster is wrong about there being no such thing as a high endurance SD card. The dashcam manual specifies that you must use a "class 10" MicroSD. This MicroSD is class 2 and would likely fail after six months to a year (and given my luck, it would fail 15 minutes before I was in an accident, haha).
If you check /r/dashcam there is some good discussion there about what MicroSD cards are appropriate and what cams are best.
I just bought the following for my PSP 3000:
Adapter
SD Card
Got them based on multiple Amazon reviews of people verifying that the combo works with the PSP 3000. I can update later to say if there were any problems if that will help you with your search.
I built one earlier this year (and another for a friend):
So for about $60, you have the hardware. Assembly is easy. The software part is relatively trivial:
It works with a wide array of controllers. I use my PS4 controllers with it and it works like a champ.
Get a Sandisk or Samsung 64gb or 128gb Micro SDXC card. This is the one I have and I'm very happy with it:
Samsung 128GB 100MB/s (U3) MicroSD EVO Select Memory Card with Adapter (MB-ME128GA/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XWZWYVP
Here's a 64gb Sandisk which would work well:
SanDisk Ultra 64GB microSDXC UHS-I Card with Adapter, Grey/Red, Standard Packaging (SDSQUNC-064G-GN6MA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010Q588D4
This is what I use and its about as good as you can get for your budget https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IEQUABA
Records really well at night, better than 1080p resolution so it captures details like license plates and people moving around in the car. Comes with everything you need including a cable to get power from the cigarette lighter in your car. Get a decent 64GB high speed micro SD card like this one https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-microSDXC-Standard-Packaging-SDSQUNC-064G-GN6MA/dp/B010Q588D4 and youre set for less than $150.
Something like this should work just fine in your phone. I suggest that one as many phones can take more than a 64GB SD card.
> I don't want to end up slowing down my phone due to a poor card choice.
You won't. If the card is only to be used with an S4, speed isn't a major concern. The phone doesn't shoot 4k video.
Sandisk 64GB for $23
Depending on your local stores, Walmart has carried the Samsung 64GB Class 10 for as little as $7!!
I bought a 64GB sandisk for 22 bucks @ amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010Q588D4?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
I did the same thing and built my PC in the middle of July and still am only missing my card. I bought a cheap $10usd gpu to make sure everything worked properly and install all my other drivers and software.
And that way, I can make myself be a little more patient knowing my build is stable and running.
In case you go that route, I had to also purchase a cheap DVI to HDMI to use it, FYI.
Note: SCART is hopelessly outdated and will not, even if you got an adapter, provide any usable image quality for a PC.
If your PC has DVI, a DVI -> HDMI (male DVI, female HDMI) adapter will work.
If it has Displayport, a Displayport -> HDMI (male Displayport, female HDMI) adapter will also work.
You might also find straight DVI-HDMI and Displayport-HDMI cables. If so they both need to be male. Note that the Displayport one must go FROM Displayport TO HDMI.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-HDMI-DVI-Adapter-Cable/dp/B014I8UQJY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1466097382&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=hdmi+adapter
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B005H3I38Q/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1466097382&amp;sr=8-12&amp;keywords=hdmi+adapter
as examples of either.
Kind of weird question, but I need help finding the right HDMI adapter.
I have a really old Edifier 3300 set, and my cables that plugs into the headphone jack finally snapped. I have no idea where to get a replacement though. I've looked online and the closest I got to was this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8UQJY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_UrMNBb4JYA74T
This cord doesn't have the right number of pins however, mine has 9 pins, 5 at the top 4 at the bottom and the same screw in connection.
I'm not sure if I'm explaining this accurately but what I want to know is what cable and I looking for here? (I want it to be HDMI for use with my PS4)
A relatively inexpensive UPS could run a pfsense appliance for 3 hours. Not to mention the numerous benefits of AVR besides keeping the OS stable.
UPS: https://smile.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK/
Appliance: https://store.netgate.com/SG-3100.aspx
i think you mean one of these m8. https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Mini-Tower-Features/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497300683&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=UPS
This isn't from personal experience, but the people I've talked to suggested cyberpower emphatically until you are into the fairly high end units.
If you're looking into high end rack mount units, or the crazy refridgerator size units, APC is good. It looks like you're looking in the $150 range, in which case everything I have heard would suggest that APC is a poor choice.
Incidentally, it looks like you're looking into the nicer version of the one that I have: http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-1500VA-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=pd_sim_e_3
Which has given me zero problems. I use it for my desktop, I intend to pick up another for my router/modem/file server in the near future. The software reckons that I have 24 minutes of battery and am currently using 186 watts.
While both of those are probably better choices, the Alesis M1 is just under $80, but the M-Audio is $150, 2 and 3 times what the OP was looking to spend.
Not everyone wants or need's audiophile or even entry level equipment.
If the $50 budget is a pretty hard limit, check out these they are the highest rated 2.1 PC speakers in your budget range.
As long as you understand the limitations of them I'm sure they will work just fine.
These are what I've got, and I think they're great. I'm no audiophile, but for the price they are pretty darn good.
Get some speakers
Great for when you come back drunk. I have the model listed above, great value.
they are, here's an example
I bough the first enclosure 4 years ago and it still works. But from what I read, the external power-supply is the weak link. The enclosure draws 5W + your drive wattage, so it's fairly reasonable. The fan is ok, it provides enough airflow on low so it's not that loud, but you can change it with a noctua if you really want ;)
The bottleneck on this setup is the usb3.0 interface on the laptop, I get around 90MBps (for my archival needs it's fine). But when I pluged it directly to my main computer I managed to get around 150MBps if I remember correctly.
>Do you own this case?
I have 4 of them in use at my home server setup right now, I setup and install 10-20 a year else where.
>How do you like it?
It is nice for the price of less than $150, if you remove the rackmount points it works like a tower. The case is solid, however removing and installing the 5 in 3 adapter is a bit tricky since it uses a click and lock system. you can easily screw them in though. I have had bad luck with the fans, they usually come with cheap fans that use molex adapters only. They are usually 2000 RPM 35 dba 45 CFM fans, if they work. You may get lucky but plan on replacing the fans otherwise.
>If they had a hot-swap version of the 15-bay model, I'd probably have bought it in a heartbeat.
You can buy and put in the 3 in 5 bays, but you will be adding about $50 per bay so $150
>As for the DAS unit you mentioned...is that basically this but much bigger? https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-ProBox-HF2-SU3S2-SATA-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4/ref=sr_1_1
>I'd be open to a DAS, but unRaid doesn't seem to like any external drives, even if they're shucked and in that Mediasonic ProBox.
This unit uses SAS connectors (they will work with SATA drives), I opened one and there is no 3.3v power line on the system, so WD white drives should work in it. The units I have are 16 Bay. The rear 80mm fans are noisy, but they are ment for use with power hunger SAS drives, so replacing them with standard 80mm fans works. The real issue is that there is a 1U power supply inside with a 40 mm fan. It is not that noisy, but makes the most annoying sound.
Use the multi lane SAS adapter 8087, so it looks like an internal drive. The unit I listed the SE3016, has no internal power down the drives mode, so it only listens to the host computer. From what I understand with unRaid (Big ZFS Fan here) the issue with external drives is that they go into power save mode, making them look dead to the array.
I've been using this Mediasonic enclosure for the last few months and it works great, with USB 3.0 transfer rates are pretty decent. I have 4 reds in there and the cooling fan rarely turns on or gets hot. I am supporting both LAN and remote streaming and it works great.
Mediasonic ProBox HF2-SU3S2 4 Bay 3.5" SATA HDD Enclosure - USB 3.0 & eSATA Support SATA 3 6.0Gbps HDD transfer speed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003X26VV4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0wbvDbDZRJHCN
Check out this, http://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-HF2-SU3S2-ProBox-Drive-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1397042978&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=mediasonic+probox
It's an enclosure, you put your drives inside of it and it exposes all the individual drives to your computer, the Pi in this case.
I installed FreeNAS and Plex on an old PC, and it grew from there, haha. I bought equipment piecemeal, and after a few years I started buying more serious equipment.
These drives are going in an MD1000 (see second picture) which is hooked up to the server via a SAS cable and an HBA (PCI-E card). I'll use ZFS to turn them into one giant filesystem, which is then shared out over NFS and CIFS (Windows filesharing).
This is my move into more professional hardware; my existing drives are in these little 4-bay SATA enclosures. They're relatively cheap to expand with, but when one SATA drive dies, the other 3 drives in the enclosure tend to get knocked off the bus also. That's the main reason I went with slightly more expensive SAS drives and enclosure this time.
What OS? I just got a Mediasonic Provocative 4-bay with USB 3.0. https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-ProBox-HF2-SU3S2-SATA-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4
It presents the 4 hard drives as separate USB hard drives on Windows 10, but not sure about other OSs.
I"m running either that same mediasonic box or a very similar one, and I'm very happy with it. The only issue I have is the blinking blue lights are stupidly bright.
EDIT: It's acutally this one that I have, which is the same thing but without the RAID. I use ZFS so I didn't need the hardware RAID functionality.
4TB 2TB and a 1 TB
http://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-ProBox-HF2-SU3S2-SATA-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459222381&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=probox
I usually bought the drives on sales or when it was fairly cheap. The 4tb was around 110$ when i got it
Sure. There's plenty of disk bays that connect to the PC via USB 3 or esata. I have a Drobo, which has served me well, but my next purchase will likely be something cheaper than that. I've been running it nearly 24/7 since I bought it 4 years ago (there was a month or two when my PC was off, so the drobo was in sleep mode).
There's a wide range of things like that available. Just search 5 Bay enclosure or 5 hdd Bay on Amazon (I'm on my phone or else I'd link you).
Edit: Mediasonic ProBox HF2-SU3S2 4 Bay 3.5" SATA HDD Enclosure - USB 3.0 & eSATA Support SATA 3 6.0Gbps HDD transfer speed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003X26VV4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_E62LybZ817YQM
That's a 4 bay drive for 99 dollars. But just FYI, I don't know much about what hardware is good or reliable for USB drives (or Nas for that matter). It's something I plan to figure out or ask about when I get the money to buy a new enclosure or Nas.
And it should be noted that while I've had a good experience with Drobo (it's super easy to use, you can swap out drives for larger ones when you need to, and it can protect against one or two simultaneous drive failures), they use a proprietary RAID. That means if your drobo enclosure dies, you'll need to get it fixed, or replace it with another Drobo before you can recover the data on your hdds. I've read thaf migrating from one drobo to another is easy, and you don't need to know which order your drives are in or anything like that.
Try a ProBox; its still external, but can hold 4 or 8 drives and is relatively cheap (unless you need the RAID version). I have 6 of the 4-bays and they work perfect.
Here you go, and room to grow. USB3 works fine. If you want to use the ESATA you'll need something that supports port multiplication.
https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-ProBox-HF2-SU3S2-SATA-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1549057702&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=mediasonic+probox
Do you need more sata ports or do you need more HDD/SDD storage? You could get a something like this to hold your other drives.
You can do the Mediasonic Probox line for that. I have the one without RAID, but use software (DrivePool) for redundancy. It works great via USB. My only complaint is the back fan can be loud.
https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-ProBox-HF2-SU3S2-SATA-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4
They also make one with RAID built in:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003YFHEAC/ref=emc_b_5_t
Hey there - sounds like you are just trying to consolidate a bunch of external HDs, is that right? When I was at that "stage" in my Plex build I got something like this ProBox, connected to the computer running Plex. Never had issues with it, started with 2 drives, had 4 before I moved them over to my current unRAID server.
Do consoles come with Speakers or a monitor? You don't need a headset, you can use a tv as a monitor. You can get a free OS or one for $20 max at /r/softwareswap. Keyboard and mouse here for $30
I've had a look at the devastator combo and it definitely looks interesting at that pricepoint. However, I would offer the following:
There are some really decent boards at reasonable pricepoints scattered all about. The immediate ones that come to mind are:
Granted, these are above the pricepoint mentioned for the devastator but if you're willing, the ergonomics and quality of these boards should vastly outweigh it.
As mentioned, have a look at /r/mechanicalkeyboards once you have a feel for what you want in a keyboard. If you spend significant amount of time behind a computer in the first place (gaming + work can easily soak up dozens of hours a week) then investing in quality kit seems like a good idea.
If you think the Devastator set looks awesome and fits your needs, by all means go for it. Be sure to post pics and your experience when you get it!
EDIT: For reference, have a quick look at the reviews being posted on Amazon. Though not the most reputable source, they do seem to highlight a number of concerns for this combo with build quality and polish. Most notably the fact that the scroll lock key is used to turn the LEDs on and off on the keyboard but simultaneously also turns that function on. This may be a problem if you use programs that respond to that key being on. In addition, it appears that a) the keys are not particularly well-finished and may have some chips in them and b) when the LEDs are off you can't see the writing on the keys. Not a problem if you're a touch typist but if you tend to look at the board while typing you may have issues.
Linky: http://www.amazon.com/CM-Storm-Devastator-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B00DKXXAAQ
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DKXXAAQ/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_l5Cfub0D6M3BK
Bought this about a month ago when it was $30. Haven't had any complaints about them yet. Pretty nice for the price
If you're curious at what it looks like/if you want to buy it...
Cooler master does some good cheap combos
Lol its a backlit keyboard that's off since the computer is off, this is what it looks like when its on. I do agree it looks pretty cool when its off though
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DKXXAAQ/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I bought this, came in the mail today, so fucking awesome.
Sounds like a power problem however, an SD card shouldn't need that much power.
The Surface USB port provides the standard base 900ma only.
I use the Amazon 4 port powered Hub with my SP3 & S3, mostly unpowered unless I specifically need to plug in the power.
Amazon basics hasn't failed me for other things:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510863587&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=external+power+usb+hub
Exactly what you need.
I don't use a Case or a Sleeve so I can't comment on that, But for a USB port I use this Amazon USB 3.0 Powered Hub. I also have a StarTech Gigabit network Adapter that works Great! I've tried several different External Controllers(I assume you mean Game Controllers) and the best I've found is my PS4 Controller. It connects to the SP3 and works with out any real setup. I also Purchased this last night to carry it in (it wont be in for a few days so I can't comment on the quality) STM Alley Small
Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!
Here are your smile-ified links:
this
---
^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly&nbsp;bot
This happened to me a few times after getting extansion cables for my hmd(O+). I read a powered usb hub can fix it, so I got one off amazon. It seems to work. I also had my usb microphone plugged into the hub after I got it, and for whatever reason my pc wasn't recognizing the mic, so I stopped using the hub and plugged it directly into my pc(along with the HMD). I got the static sound again, and plugged the HMD back into the hub, and hasn't happened since, so I'm pretty sure its not a placebo.
I use this one AmazonBasics 4 Port USB 3.0 Hub with 5V/2.5A power adapter
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQFGH80/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I use this one, it works very well for me.
Something like this USB hub?
Sure np, there is a $60 tuner available for XBOX One. I picked up a 50-mile Clearstream Eclipse antenna, connected it directly to the tuner, then the tuner plugs into an open USB port on the back of your XONE. If you're like me I already had a port devoted to my Kinect, and another to a 3TB drive so this filled up all my ports (you can buy a hub for relatively cheap that takes care of this problem). Anyway...once you plug everything in the XBOX will recognize your new device and ask if you would like to scan for channels, it also asks for your zip code for the on-screen OTA channel guide that looks quite similar to most cable companies. Finally, it asks if you would like to devote 4 gigs of your HD space to the 30-minute pause function. Very easy to set-up, everything plays right through the XBOX OneGuide app.
Edit: Use this website to see how many free OTA channels you have in your area, as well as how far they are away from you...this will help determine the strength of the antenna you need to buy. https://www.fcc.gov/media/engineering/dtvmaps
Its an USB issue. I know, you have probably tried different usb ports ranging from 2.0 to 3.0. You would switch it and it would work just fine for a few days then you are back to reseating the hdmi plug.
There are 2 solutions:
Now option 2 should not work but it does. I had the same exact problem as you. I tried everything and it got to the point the only other option was buying a usb 3.0 pci e card. However, I had option 2 laying around and realized I needed more usb 3.0 ports for my other stuff so I figured why not try my rift. Its been 3 months and I havent had to reseat the hdmi cord or try different usb ports.
Only issues i have now is what looks like white static whenever it is dark in the game or loading something, but it is all gone when the game starts. Also, sound. My rift sound will cut off after 30 minutes of playing so I have to re-enable it via sound manager.
Hope this helps because I know how frustrating it was.
So, I have it figured out, mostly.
I had my flash drive (incorrectly calling it a usb stick) plugged into an unpowered usb hub (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) because I also have a Chromecast attached to the tv, powered by the TV's usb port via the hub.
The hub specs say to not have a combined load of over 900ma for stable connections. From what I can tell, the Chromecast draws between 250-420ma depending on idle/use. I can't figure out what the flash drive uses, but somehow both devices being connected to the hub is causing the issue. When I plug the flash drive directly into the TV, everything works like it's supposed to. For note purposes, the 4k TCL TV I have lists itself as being able to provide 1500ma from the usb port. The flash drive is usb 2.0 and the unpowered hub is usb 3.0.
Next step is to try a powered usb hub and see if that fixes everything.
Here is the Roku info on the usb port and hubs, etc. https://support.roku.com/article/230160368-why-does-my-roku-streaming-device-not-recognize-my-external-usb-drive-
Maybe get your choice of 4tb 3.5 drive and buy an enclosure (~$20). That would be less than $200 and you'd have a good hard drive also. That's what I'd probably do.
[Here] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LS5NFQ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_J2tFAbWV92NH0)
https://www.ifixit.com/Store
The best place to find guides to replace parts and the tools needed. I would take out the drive and get an enclosure, I use the one listed here since it supports different style hard drives and I've used it with my old MacBook Pro Hard Drives. https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Lay-Flat-Docking-EC-DFLT/dp/B00LS5NFQ2/ref=sr_1_5?crid=JVCM71A3P4M9&keywords=external+hard+drive+enclosure&qid=1567010984&s=gateway&sprefix=external+hard+drive+e%2Caps%2C124&sr=8-5
Network storage can be nice, easily achieved with something like this for single drives. You can also just use them like any other external drive with that case.
Depends completely on your needs/wants.
Is the drive spinning up at all when you turn it on?
If it does spin up, and it's not making loud clanking noises, you can probably handle the recovery on your own.
I always recommend testdisk/photorec since I get the best results with it (and it's free), but it's all command line and not the most friendly user interface so you may want to try something else if you aren't super techy.
There are many to choose from - but other than photorec, you'll probably have to pay for one of the high end ones to get any real results. EaseUS, Recuva, and DiskWarrior (if you're on Mac) are my go-to options.
You may also need a new drive enclosure if your operating systems disk utility doesn't see the drive at all since it could just be the controller on the enclosure you've got. (This would definitely void any warranty you've got with that hard drive if you're worried about that kind of thing).
Mount the drive into the enclosure, and then you can run the recovery software.
If however the drive doesn't spin up, or it's making those clanking noises, then unfortunately you'll need to have it handled by professionals who have a proper clean room to disassemble the drive inside of.
I've been fortunate enough that all of my issues have been something I was able to resolve on my own (I used to do corporate IT work) and I haven't needed to use a service, however I know multiple people who have had great experiences with DataSavers here in town.
Good luck!
If you're looking for total storage space, go mechanical, but go 7200RPM at the very least. If you're just looking to "play around" with Linux, this should be more than enough, and will also be extremely cheap. A WD Blue drive goes for $49, and and a tool-free enclosure goes for $23.
Yikes. Yeah I would either look to replace that board, or put the drive in a USB 3.0 enclosure and use it externally. The enclosure would be a little safer since the connector is usually solidly attached to the enclosure, not a cable that can wiggle around.
get a external hard drive dock so you can plug it into another computer like a flash drive almost
something like this : http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Lay-Flat-Docking-EC-DFLT/dp/B00LS5NFQ2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1427637093&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=hdd+docking+station
Maybe...
https://smile.amazon.com/Blue-Microphones-Yeti-USB-Microphone/dp/B00N1YPXW2?sa-no-redirect=1
When it comes to mechanical keyboards, condenser mics will pick up those clicks and possibly annoy those you're playing with...
You can go two routes with this:
The great thing about this route is the interface also serves as a DAC, a headphone amp, speaker volume knob, and you can also record your voice or instruments if you need to!
.
Remember, when it comes to this stuff, don't always go with the cheapest option. Remember the saying "If you buy cheap, you buy twice." Think about what you want going into the future (i.e. do I want nice speakers, to record anything in the future, etc.). Let me know if you need anymore information!
blue yeti
I personally do not have one of these, but have a couple friends who use this to record their acapella practices. It has an omnidirectional mode which means you can theoretically place it in the middle of the table and just talk normally. Plus its USB so you won't have to pay $100 for a pre-amp.
Also, I would do some research about EQ and Compression, especially if you use one mic for three people. The EQ will help any echo/muddiness which may show up and compression is in case one person is recorded louder than the other two.
Best of luck starting up! Let me know when it starts up and I'll give it a listen :)
http://www.amazon.ca/Blue-Microphones-Yeti-Microphone-Blackout/dp/B00N1YPXW2
Thank you for doing this. I can see how it could be a great resource.
I hope you don't mind, but can I recommend:
There are a few possibilities.
If you will speak into your microphone and plan to use it for a long time, I recommend that you buy a pop filter, too.
If you are willing to spend more money, there are USB desktop microphones for which customized pop filters are available.
blue yeti and its metal pop filter are pretty durable, but they are more expensive than CVL-2008 which comes with a less durable customized nylon pop filter that is not sold separately from CVL-2008. However, if you didn't abuse a pop filter and washed it from time to time, even a nylon pop filter could last a decade or two.
Those are called USB ports, not HDMI ports.
And yes, you can use a USB 3.0 HUB to add more USB slots to the console.
Something like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Anker-4-Port-Macbook-Surface-Notebook/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519339748&amp;sr=1-1-spons&amp;keywords=USB+hub&amp;psc=1) should work.
Firstly if you like black switches, I'd highly recommend getting Gateron Blacks. They're far smoother than Cherry.
I'd suggest picking up a VA87MR when it goes on Massdrop again, fits your requirements of floating keys, minimal branding, detachable cable, backlighting, and has Gateron Black as an option, as well as costing ~$130ish. Only thing it doesn't have is a steel finish which I don't think you'll be able to find on most boards. There's also a aluminium case available to purchase separately for $120 or so.
As for the numpad, the cheapest option would be to get a Jelly Comb numpad though it has some nonstandard key sizes (also not available in blacks). There's also the FC210TP.
USB number pads are great. (Nothing like a "jumbo tv remote", wtf I can't even.) I use and recommend https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Numeric-Keypad-Jelly-Comb/dp/B01E8U8HKW/
Order this for $15, wow much clack, much savings, very money
Numpad only? As low as $17 on Amazon
Probably Otemu blues. That same keypad is sold under a few names. This version on amazon says it's Otemu blue in the reviews.
What about this 200gb microSD card?
Amazon Canada has SanDisk Micro SD on sale that look pretty decent price wise. Are these a good value?
SanDisk Ultra 128GB microSDXC UHS-I
SanDisk Ultra 200GB microSDXC UHS-I
highest: 400GB https://www.amazon.com/Sandisk-Ultra-400GB-Adapter-SDSQUAR-400G-GN6MA/dp/B074RNRM2B/
highest worth buying: 200GB https://www.amazon.com/Sandisk-Ultra-400GB-Adapter-SDSQUAR-400G-GN6MA/dp/B073JY5T7T/
It’s only less than $2 cheaper than Amazon Link
A 200GB mSD card is $25 right now: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JY5T7T/
Would this SD card be good for the switch? SanDisk Ultra microSDXC Memory Card + SD Adapter with A1 App Performance up to 100MB/s, Class 10, U1 - 200GB https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B073JY5T7T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QGqwCbY2VKKET
You are probably better off going with the 200 GB or 256 GB version.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JY5T7T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HO7PBbSHCEF3T?th=1
Typically the biggest SD card is not a great deal.
I already have a 128GB Class U-3 Samsung card, and I'm perfectly happy with it. But, if I were to buy a bigger one, I'd get this one, no question:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JY5T7T/
For a class U-1 microSD card, I'd say ~$80 is a very reasonable price. You probably won't notice the difference between Class U-1 and Class U-3 speeds, but I would highly recommend only getting a card that's class 10 or higher. If you get anything slower, especially class 2 or 4, you'll likely notice long load times in some games. That can get annoying pretty fast. Plus, when you're transferring games from your computer, especially en masse, you will definitely care about speeds more than you would while playing.
Oh, and about other brands, or getting something cheap from AliExpress, I would highly recommend that you don't do that. I've only had to make that mistake a few times before ever doing it again. For some reason, knock off cards are a gamble when it comes to quality, and I always end up with the junk ones :/
Happy hoarding!
I had the 128GB version of your card and I still noticed significant loading speed ups in Doom when I moved to this card.
Check out Amazon, the 200gb cards are down to an all time low of $56!
That's only $15 more than the normal price of a 128gb card.
If you don't need the extra 50-ish GB, the new 200GB Sandisk Ultra A1 is available for $99.45 on Amazon.ca (make sure to pick the one shipped and sold by Amazon).
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/offer-listing/B073JY5T7T/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&amp;condition=new
Multiple drives in a multiple hard drive enclosure is your best option if price is any object at all.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003X26VV4/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687642&amp;pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&amp;pf_rd_t=201&amp;pf_rd_i=B002UAPHS8&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=1P00K17ZE5JHNEQAFK7W
You have a power bank, why not just get a small usb fan. There are hundreds of models on amazon that are small and either run off any usb port or are rechargeable.
Like this: usb flexible fan
Or even this fancy neck one: fancy neck fan
in case you are looking for a fan, try this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003XN24GY/ref=cm_cd_asin_lnk ;-)
Hello,
I have a surface S3 with I7 for over a year now and I love it. Most of your bugs I've experienced at some point or other. Windows 10 originally had a pretty rough start on minor bugs but Microsoft has started releasing patches at a faster rate which helped a lot of these.
https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-USB-Powered-Portable-Solution-Gooseneck/dp/B003XN24GY
I donno if I was very helpful but try to plug into a solid internet and download all the updates, the Surface has come a long way in terms of reliability. Microsoft redesigned a lot of code with windows 8+ and it came at a cost.
if thats too noisy these things work fine and are pretty close to silent
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XN24GY
i have one running on mine
additionally you can put one of these on the CPU
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZC043CE
No problem glad to talk about it, and answer any questions.
This costume has a lot of room in the inside so I went with this larger USB fan and a small USB cord to connect it to a USB power pack that runs on 4 AA batteries. I wanted to keep the power supply separate from the video, incase issues arise with one or the other.
Edit: Guess I should add that the fans are always on once plugged in, this is done as part of getting suited up. Thought about a switch, but because this suit will always need a handler, we always had spare batteries.
The camera/LCD are on a switch that draw power from 8xAAs. The eyes use red LEDs with a single white led in the center, they also draw power from the same 8 battery pack but have a separate switch. This worked out well during rest periods and we were suiting back up. I could just tell the crowd to please hold on pictures till Al's soul is back in the armor (eyes light up)
I bought this fan when I bought my switch. I plug it in every time I play Mario kart or Zelda. After a couple hours of four player MK8 it was still pretty cool to the touch. Peace of mind for me. Maybe it's bullshit but I'm happy to have it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003XN24GY/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
What about this? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003XN24GY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498353383&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=usb+fan
This is my previous step.
http://www.reddit.com/r/BitcoinMining/comments/1izsj8/133ghs_4x_usb_erupters_now_i_can_use_my_gaming/
Flexible USB Fan - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XN24GY
USB L Connector - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B5HS95A
7 Port Powered Rosewill USB Hub - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004BV7XQ8
The fan is quiet and does its job. 5 successful eruptors on one usb 2.0 hub.
I normally get Cyberpower PFC1500s. I have been super happy with them.
They go on sale all the time on Newegg and Amazon. You get get them for less than $180 when they are on sale.
What a coincidence. Was looking at this: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00429N19W
Then my power shut off lol.
I have three of these : amazon!
and I am looking at getting one of these amazon2!
The room is on a 15 AMP circuit, and I am using about 2000 peak watts.
Actually the unit I bought is divided, half out the outputs are line active, half are wall power. I run the power to my rig via the line active socket.
I live in a region where the power dips below 100 volts regularly, so believe me, I pay attention to these things.
I imagine something like this would last a few hours if your actual load is 28W.
A few do have USB ports on the front for power. Here is an example: https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=ups&amp;qid=1574882279&amp;sr=8-5
Does your desktop have an efficient power supply? Most of the efficient desktop PSUs employ active PFC. If yours does, you will want a UPS that provides pure sine wave power in case of an outage.
The APC UPSs on sale do stepped sine wave approximation. It might work for efficient PSUs, I don't know. I do know that CyberPower has pure sine wave PSUs that eliminate the question, albeit at a higher price. For example: https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W
If money isn't an object get a UPS with two features. First, it should be line interactive which allows it to filter minor fluctuations in power quality. This would be below the level of a surge that most surge protectors would catch. Second, get a PFC compatible one (sometimes called pure sine wave or other variants). Some power supplies are picky and don't like the "simulated sine wave" seen on many cheaper UPS. Your computer might work with a non-PFC compatible one, might not. You'd only know by trying it out, I chose just not to bother with it and got the PFC compatible one.
My experience has been with Cyberpower PFC units which haven't given me any problems.
Might want to check to make sure it's really the same model. This one is a Pure Sine Wave, not simulated, the equivalent VA at Costco is a 1400va/900w for $180
On amazon this equivalent model is selling for 179.99
If you are patient, Amazon has had the 1400va/900w on sale for $140.
Either way, this is still a good deal for a great UPS.
I bought this UPS for my computer, I think it's a good idea to have one. It's actually on sale for a couple more hours for a really good price.
What are you going to be using this mouse/keyboard for?
While you're at it... grab a good mouse pad, cloth-woven with strong edges and gripping rubber on the bottom.
___
Gamers usually opt for a nice mechanical keyboard (sometimes backlit for nighttime gaming sessions). On the other hand, for an HTPC you might like back-lighting and wireless capabilities. Or for normal use... simple, wired efficiency. You can even get solar-powered keyboards now to be more environmentally friendly!
As for mice... the choices are wide open. Getting a 'gaming' mouse is NEVER a bad decision as they are usually manufactured with a higher degree of quality assurance and wonderful ergonomics. Personal tangent: An expensive (but entirely worthwhile) gaming mouse cured my tendonitis.
A stellar Logitech mouse. (G400)
I used one of those for many years before switching over to my current Razer Mamba. Razer mice are very expensive and usually come with a host of fancy lights and extra buttons. It really depends on what you need the mouse for, so I won't clutter your screen with links until we know more!
Logitech G400 , has all you need from a gaming mouse.
You really dont need more , unless you are WOW hardcore player or FPS expert player.
http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Optical-Gaming-High-Precision-910-002277/dp/B0055QZ216/ref=pd_cp_e_1
Logitech G-400
Razer Deathadder
Steelseries Sensei
All of these are excellent mice, which one you want really comes down to personal preference. I like the deathadder, but I know other people who are more comfortable with the logitech design.
You also might want to take into consider a nice mouse surface if you don't already have one. I can tell you that the steelseries 9HD is pretty awesome if you're into hard pads.
Aparently the price is outrageous now.
Completely and utterly outrageous, might as well pick up a G9x at that price point. I was able to snag my G400 at $25 on sale from amazon a few months back. It is a wonderful mouse for an optical but I wouldn't pay more than $35 for it.
They replaced it with the G400
What sort of accessories are you looking for? Lik ke5pay said, you most likely won't need a sound card. Only invest in a sound card if you are a serious audiophile (And owning Beats headphones doesn't make one an audiophile ><; )
Assuming you game, maybe get a nice mouse?
$40 hardly seems overpriced.
This has to be the best bang for the buck. Has a very solid construction and surround sound.
Been using the Plantronics 780 for about six months now, no complaints. 5.1 sound. Comfortable, sounds great.
Hey, I think this $40 deal is a lot more common than you realize.
http://camelcamelcamel.com/Plantronics-GameCom-780-Surround-Headset/product/B00B1KJK22
Its been at/near $50 on amazon a handful of times before... so do not let pressure on this shell shocker Newegg deal expiring pressure you into purchasing.
For checking amazon price history... http://camelcamelcamel.com
Gonna drop this in here in case someone wants to scour the posts to build a meta-thread on cables and accessories down the road.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01MQD4VYI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 <- This works converting DP -> HDMI for the Lenovo Explorer and the Samsung Odyssey
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01FSDIGYK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 <- this one did not. it wouldn't power up the display.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01LYLO6KS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 <- this HDMI coupler worked with a 6ft HDMI cable UNPOWERED, plugged into the HDMI on the video card (for the Explorer and Odyssey), however when used in conjunction with the working DP->HDMI adapter above, it needed to be powered (through the usb plug on the side) to be able to power up the HMD. I haven't tried longer runs of HDMI with it yet.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 <- This 3m/10ft USB 3.0 Extension cable worked with the Explorer and Odyssey.
HDMI + USB + Power + Cable Sleeve = Good extension cable.
I use this setup on the HMD end of the Linkbox with no issues.
I extend my Rift S with 10 ft cables and I've had no issues.
Displayport:
Cable Matters DisplayPort to DisplayPort Extension Cable (DP to DP Extension Cable) 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L1K1KDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.rJgDbQMDYQVF
USB:
Cable Matters USB to USB Extension Cable (USB 3.0 Extension Cable/USB 3 Extension Cable) in Black 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pLNgDb3ZQ8QMR
Try these:
Displayport:
Cable Matters DisplayPort to DisplayPort Extension Cable (DP to DP Extension Cable) 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L1K1KDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.rJgDbQMDYQVF
USB:
Cable Matters USB to USB Extension Cable (USB 3.0 Extension Cable/USB 3 Extension Cable) in Black 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pLNgDb3ZQ8QMR
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498758225&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=cable+matters+usb+3.0
I tossed this on both of my sensors and works great.
I use these cables:
Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U
AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI Extension Cable - 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H91KE
And these clips on my basement drop ceiling:
Outus 100 Pack Ceiling Hook for Drop Ceilings https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J7HVOQU
Works well for me so far. Haven't been wrenching on my cables/video card like I was (on occasion) before purchasing them.
I bought a DisplayPort/HDMI adapter for my monitor, otherwise I just got a black screen on my Rift with an hourglass icon. I also bought two extension cables:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
These should work https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I use them with my lenovo explorer
I purchased;
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009D378SW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
(various dk2 users recommended passive (copper to copper) couplers for use with HDMI connectors, this is what I found on Amazon)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0194F1MY4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
(this was recommended for users that don't have two hdmi outputs and use a TV for a monitor, etc. The 970gtx typically has a DisplayPort out. This adapter I believe can be used for either the rift or your external tv etc. My importance is for 4k Video with Audio. This is the go to cable. The 4k capability here is very important with the Rift. This cable is verified to work.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
(these or AmazonBasics seem to be the goto USB 3.0 extension cables, DK2/CV1 owners recommend AmazonBasics, but they are all sold out. These are the next best bet. I plan on using this to go through my wall to my Powered USB 3.0 Hubs).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0192LPK5M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
(I bought this as its a reliable brand, 4 port usb POWERED hub, you are going to get better results with USB 3.0 when its powered and extended due to obvious cable length limitations.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019OSCJ7K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
(As the DisplayPort to HDMI was by Club3D, this cable is highly rated and reliably 4k Capable, I figured it was a no brainer).
Hope that helps, I feel confident, through my research I should be able to accomplish what I want. I know USB limits you to 15ft, but in my experience when you use powered USB hubs, you can get beyond that. And worst case scenario, you can convert the USB to Cat5 and go much further distances.
I figured, if something doesn't work, I always have use for adapters and hubs. Again my goal was just to get through my wall and have the PC in another room (less than 20foot overall, but I heard the Rift cables are 9ft?) So the Rift setup would end up being 9ft or so in my living room I think.
I think that's it. Mine is coming Saturday.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
USB 3.0:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
HDMI:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Here is another picture of the sensor itself:
http://imgur.com/VJgtyLj
Here is the gear that I used:
Light Stands (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNZJLG4/) - These things are great. Very easy to setup, very small base (can be expanded if you want, but the sensors are light and they seem very stable).
Mini Ball Heads (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M07M9D4) - Make for easier adjustment and greater tilting.
USB Cables (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ - 10 ft, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ - 6 ft) - Passive were fine for the two sensors at that length.
Very happy to get these off my desk and higher up. I need to get my third sensor setup as well because the angle that they are pointing makes it tough to detect at the back of my play space (it's about 6 x 9).
Overall very happy with the setup and all the advice I received from this board. This is a really great community.
Just get a DVI to HDMI cable for your GPU to monitor...
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Input-Output-Adapter-Cable/dp/B014I8UQJY/
This is what you want to get audio to your speakers, it's called a DAC, (better, more expensive options are available, but that's the best you're gonna do for under $100 lol) and this is the cable to connect the two devices (you'll also need RCA cables)
This will get you video to your projector.
Unfortunately since it looks like you're using powered monitors, you'll need a pre-amp to control the volume.
You may be thinking wow that's a lot of stuff, and it doesn't even come with a remote! And you're absolutely right. Unfortunately, the only thing that does all that is a full blow receiver, which get quite expensive and are usually aimed at surround sound systems. Most receivers don't like powered monitors though, so you'd have to get a very special one.
This is where you realize that passive speakers are what you really want, and you blow hundreds of dollars on speakers and equipment and you become an audiophile. Luckily there's a bunch of guides to get you started over on /r/zeos. But the stuff I listed earlier should let you jerry-rig a working set up while you save up :P
I use this type myself: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AA0U08M
These should work to: https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Active-Extension-Extender-Female/dp/B0179MXKU8
1.) Buy some:
You might want to extend Rift's cables. I use:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
2.) My Rift lays on the table. I cover it with a towel (with a moomin on it xD)
They do come a lot cheaper than that though.
https://www.amazon.ca/CableCreation-Meters-Extension-Extender-Female/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1P9H9B7CK4OM4&keywords=usb+3+0+active+extension+cable&qid=1551396803&s=electronics&sprefix=usb+3.0+a%2Celectronics%2C242&sr=1-3
My existing CV1 setup already had wiring for 4 sensors, 3 of which required active extension, so I tapped into the far one that went across the ceiling with the 10 foot USB-C Anker 3.0 cable recommended by Oculus, and it works flawlessly.
The visuals were excellent. For me this looks better than the Rift S (personally, since I have an IPD of 59, along with the beautiful OLED displays this has). I didn't notice any artifacts or compression when playing, but I do think this thing is sensitive to having a very good USB port, so results may vary.
The lower refresh rate is definitely noticeable compared to the CV1 and I played worse than usual in beat saber (on expert). The tracking is also obviously more limited than the CV1 with more than 2 sensors (which this would beat), especially in games like Echo VR, but I also had some issues with the S in that game when I tried it. This is comparing to a perfect 4 sensor setup with a $120 quad channel USB card, so it's not exactly fair.
You can't beat the simplicity this provides for just getting into PCVR.
Here is the link the the extension cable. It's cheaper than it was back when I got them for my sensors: https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Extension-Extender-Booster-Compatible/dp/B0179MXKU8
Just order it from here: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01LNAAEJ2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=Anker%2Busb%2B3&amp;qid=1574498811&amp;sr=8-3&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
I live in Sweden too and on Monday I should be getting it. Its 1.8m long but I ordered an active extension like this: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=cablecreation&amp;qid=1574499015&amp;sprefix=CableC&amp;sr=8-3
Thanks very much for suggestion,
This worked for us as well.
&#x200B;
Here is what we used from Amazon USA:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IE3IAIS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HCZCVF8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
&#x200B;
And since there is enough cord for ceiling mount now:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GV8CNPW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
&#x200B;
Total of $175, but closest I can get to wireless for now.
MRTV got this 5M active extender working https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8
He also plugged a 1M C to A cable in to connect it to the headset, total of 19 bucks. Does anyone know a longer cable I can plug into this extender? Like 2 or 3M? Just want to know before I order.
26' for $26. Works a dream.
CableCreation Active USB Extension Cable (Long 16.4 FT), USB 3.0 Extender Male to Female Cord with Signal Booster for $13 — this was the extension cable for the other one I purchased:
Anker Powerline USB-C to USB 3.0 Cable (10ft) with 56k Ohm Pull-up Resistor for $13.
Lone Echo
Brass Tactics
Chronos
Star Trek Bridge Crew
Elite Dangerous
Project Cars 2
Hellblade: Senua's Sacrifice VR Edition
Alien Isolation (Mother Mod)
Also, according to the pinned thread, this extension cable works:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I haven't tried it yet since I just ordered it, but others have verified that it works.
Jelly Comb w/ Kailh Blues.
A "mostkey" with clears doesn't exist, unless you go down the route of a custom (e.g. b.mini EX).
here is a cheap, basic numpad
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Input-Output-Adapter-Cable/dp/B014I8UQJY
;)
One solution would be to use a dvi-hdmi cable, which are really cheap (7$ for a long and high-quality cable like this and use the dvi port, see if that works. If it does, just stick to that, it's virtually the same as hdmi except no monitor audio. It might just be the hdmi port, since b350 motherboards are all crap and have rushed designs, you might expect something to not function properly.
You could do this too
I've got a 27 inch on dvi + a 50 inch tv on hdmi.
There are also Displayport to Hdmi converters that work too for what you're trying to do.
Gotcha, you probably just need a DVI cable like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IHMFIBY/
However if you're GPU does not support the DVI required by your monitor you may need a dvi to hdmi adapter like so: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8UQJY/
You could get a cable like this one or an adapter from amazon for your monitor.
DVI is not Display Port at all lol. I mean it's a video/audio output interface haha.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Input-Output-Adapter-Cable/dp/B014I8UQJY/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505175324&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=dvi+to+hdmi
There's a cable for ya, do make sure that it matches up with the holes on the DVI port on your monitor though!
This is possible without a capture card, assuming you're not using a laptop. If you're trying to use a laptop's screen it's capture card or nothing.
So assuming you're using a regular PC and monitor it's a few fairly inexpensive adapters and\or cables.
To get video to you're monitor you've got a couple options and it depends on what inputs are available. If your monitor has a second HDMI port you should use that, but most don't. If it has a DVI port use a HDMI to DVI cable to plug it into your monitor. If neither of those are available you can use an HDMI splitter to have two devices plugged into the same HDMI port on your monitor.
You can run the Switch's sound through the computer and have it act as a mixer so that both the Switch sound and your computer's sound comes out of the same headphones\speakers. Saves you from needing to plug and unplug speakers or headsets all the time. You'll also be able to use Discord\Steam\whatever voice chat while playing Switch games if you're using a headset.
Note: This is assuming you're running Windows 10.
To do this you'll need an aux cable.
What you would need to do is find the Line-In jack on the back of your computer. Plug one end of the aux cable into the headphone jack on the Switch and the other into the Line-In on your computer
On your computer go to Sound Settings in the Control Panel. You can also use the search bar on your computer and search for "Sound".
In the main Sound settings there's a section for Input where you can choose your Input Device. Choose Line-In there.
Then click on Device Properties right below Input Device
Then click Additional Device Properties on the right
Now we're in Line-In properties, go to the Listen tab and check 'listen to this device'. Click on the drop down labeled "Playback through this device" and set it to your headphones\speakers.
You may also want to go to the Levels tab and turn up the volume coming from line in.
Press "OK" to close Line-In properties. You should now be hearing both your computer and the Switch audio through the same pair of headphones\speakers.
You can use an HDMI/Displayport to DVI cable if needed.
DP to DVI
HDMI to DVI
They are! That monitor has a dvi-d input so in a modern computer something like this dvi to hdmi cord would be needed if no dvi ports exist on the graphics output.
Get this: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-HDMI-DVI-Adapter-Cable/dp/B014I8UQJY
Great! Okay, so according to a quick Google search, you can run both the DVI and VGA ports concurrently.
You CAN go from DVI-D, which is what you have next to the VGA port, straight to HDMI, with a cable like this.
Now, the only thing to worry about is that DVI cannot carry audio, whereas HDMI can do both audio and video. There are some TVs out there with a PC input that allows you to have audio come over a separate cable (3.5mm stereo mini, optical, RCA, etc).
If your TV does not have that, you might be better off using your PC speakers, or looking at something like this. (I have never used that part and can't vouch for its efficacy, although Monoprice is perfectly fine as a parts seller) If you can just use your PC speakers (as it sounds like the displays won't be far apart), then that would certainly be the easiest solution.
Some monitors have HDMI ports on the back. If yours does, I think you know what to do from there. If not, your monitor should have a DVI port on the back. I have a simple adapter that I bought on amazon that you can buy for about $5.00-$7.00.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8UQJY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4iQyybG3GQ7CK
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Input-Output-Adapter-Cable/dp/B014I8UQJY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501734291&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=hdmi+to+dvi+adapter
Or
https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-Gold-Plated-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00ZMV7RL2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501734325&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=hdmi+to+vga+adapter
Take your pick.
What ports do your monitors use? You can get cheap cables like this:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Input-Output-Adapter-Cable/dp/B014I8UQJY/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505922534&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=hdmi+to+dvi
Plug the HDMI in the GPU, and the DVI in your monitor if your monitor only supports DVI (or vice versa)
Yes, you can just get an HDMI to DVI cable or adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Input-Output-Adapter-Cable/dp/B014I8UQJY/
You need an adapter or a cable. I suppose your card is like this, there is a direct HDMI output, use that to connect one of your monitors, and then buy and adapter or cable from DVI to HDMI, or DisplayPort to HDMI cable or adapter, whatever is cheaper or in your store.
There are 5 different DVI connectors.
The rx460 uses DVI-D
So to connect to rhe monitor you want youll need an adaptor
hdmi to vga
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Active-Adapter-Micro-USB/dp/B00879DM56
DP to VGA
https://www.amazon.com/VicTsing-Gold-plated-DisplayPort-Adapter-Macbook/dp/B00K49SZTK/
display port to dvi-d
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Gold-Plated-DisplayPort/dp/B004C9M7UG/
Or
hdmi to dvi-d
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-HDMI-DVI-Adapter-Cable/dp/B014I8UQJY/
Any of these would work.
Yes, I used to use one of these to output from PS3 (HDMI) to computer monitor (DVI).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014I8UQJY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1466546942&amp;sr=1-1&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;keywords=dvi-d+to+hdmi&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41-O%2BZoRjZL&amp;ref=plSrch
I just looked through the reviews of the adapter. There are actually many people with the same issue.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DVI-to-HDMI-Cable/product-reviews/B014I8UQJY/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_paging_btm_next_2?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=one_star&reviewerType=all_reviews&pageNumber-reviews-filter-bar
An actual cabe with dvi on one end and hdmi on the other. This specifically https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014I8UQJY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482695488&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;keywords=dvi+to+hdmi
There are some things you could try out, if you haven't already.
I advise you to restart your computer after you've done your adjustments and connected your Rift, so that the computer will prioritize the USB power-draw correctly on startup.
Chances are you've tried these options already, but if not, give them a try. Unfortunately, I can't think of any other alternatives. The VR-tests I can find of your laptop seem to have been done without extensions. Feel free to contact Asus support - they might have some recommendations, as I doubt you'll be the first with the issue.
Good luck!
So I had this issue with rift on and off for a year
My end game solution, after wasting tons of money on failed solutions, was buying an 4 independent bus usb 3.0 pcie expansion board (plugged into pcie 16x slot)
I tried a cheap 1 usb bus cards with 4 USB ports and it just is too much strain for 1 bus with all these cameras plus everything else on my PC. Even with that extra bus on that expansion card it’s simply not enough.
what finally worked was the 4 independent 3.0 buses on that card.
I have 3 rift cameras and the headset plugged into the card each one with a dedicated usb bus and none of on my mobo
I’m on mobile at the moment but lemme try to find the link.. if I can’t it was from Startech
Here think this is it https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Express-SuperSpeed-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S
Make sure you select quad bus or you will be wasting your time.
The last part of this usb disconnect drama for me was a proper usb 3.0 repeater extension cable (on my 3rd and furtherest rear camera). I did a lot of buying and experimenting with these too but this one is the one that finally played nice with rift
https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Extension-Extender-Repeater-Booster/dp/B0179MXKU8/
After this combo I now finally have flawless no random disconnect usage of my rift
Took a damn year to sort all this out.
I hope it helps
Ah a good question. I was using the included extended (2.0) but switched to using 2x CableCreation USB 3 extension cables
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.IM6BbZDFMMWN
If there are any specific tests or benchmarks you’d like me to run I am open to help :)
No. This is what you need: CableCreation (Long 16FT) Super Speed Active USB 3.0 Extension Cable, USB 3.0 Extender USB Male to Female Repeater Cable with Signal Booster for Oculus Rift,Xbox,PS4 and More, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0eJWBb05A2Y2S
Your mileage will vary based on your computer hardware but personally I'm using an unpowered cheapo hub that supports USB 2.0 from Wal-Mart
(which only has my Warthog throttle + stick + TRP pedals plugged in), and I'm using a long USB 3.0 extension that has a repeater (which was leftover from my Oculus setup. My flight sim setup is too far from my desktop to reach). It's plugged into a USB 3.0 port on my computer, as 3.0 supports a higher current draw. Have had zero issues so far, though I plan to upgrade to a cheapo 3.0 hub (only using the 2.0 temporarily as I had it laying around).
If you have an unpowered hub laying around, it's worth trying. But if you want a guarantee of no issues (especially if your computer power supply is on a tight margin), a powered hub may be the way to go.
If you're in no hurry and have stores nearby with good return policies, you could even buy a cheap unpowered and return it if it doesn't work.
I am using these USB 3 Active Extension Cables. It gives you an extra 16 ft. I have my sensors mounted to the ceiling so I just run the cable across the ceiling using screw eyes and s-biners.
does anyone know if these would work as well for the sensor?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0179MXKU8
I had a similar problem with my rooms about 10' apart and had to move my PC to the VR space and running extensions back to my desk for my monitor and peripherals.
I got a powered USB hub mounted on my desk with a 16' active USB 3.0 extension plugged into the back of the PC down the hall. I wanted 3.0 because I am using that Ethernet port on the USB hub too. I also got a 15ft DVI extension for the monitor so I ended up with only have two cables to hide in the hallway. The cable clips aren't invisible but they are at least neat and clean. The 16' of cable for 10' of hallway was just enough length so make sure you get enough to make a few turns or go up and down walls.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IDI9V3W/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apip_EqmdpgNxHP8EJ
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apip_d3IqEJrUAvYdL
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003WGTL0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apip_e9KeYg4pNLDgb
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071Y1RGPP/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apip_uUBWLUVkBZQLL
Check this out: CableCreation Gold (Long 16FT) Super Speed USB 3.0 Active Extension ... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdo_A7SGzbTM1WHXB
It extends the sensor as USB 3.0 without issues.
The officially recommended one, plus this extension: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0179MXKU8/
Buy an active extender, then you'll have 22 feet!!
CableCreation Active USB Extension Cable (Long 16.4 FT), USB 3.0 Extender Male to Female Cord with Signal Booster Compatible with Oculus Rift, Xbox, PS4, USB Printer etc, Black https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_a8X3DbJGG24WF
Maybe, but I refunded the UGreen and got the CableCreation extender instead. It works, but it doesn't have added power so it won't charge as well. Still works for me though!If the Ugreen doesn't work for others, try this one: https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Extension-Extender-Booster-Compatible/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=cablecreation&qid=1574475246&sr=8-13
Edit: Using it with the 10ft Anker Powerline USB3.0 cable recommended by Oculus, btw.
I got my cable in and grabbed one of my Cable Creations 3.0 5m cables out of the closet and it seems to be working fine. Got to soften up this anker cable and get some more velcro tiedowns but it worked great in some pavlov matches.
&#x200B;
https://smile.amazon.com/CableCreation-Extension-Extender-Booster-Compatible/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3PS4KD79BRGYI&keywords=cable+creations+usb+3.0+extension&qid=1574390846&sprefix=cable+creations%2Caps%2C134&sr=8-3
https://www.amazon.de/CableCreation-Aktives-Verl%C3%A4ngerungskabel-Extender-Weibliches/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=sr_1_3?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&keywords=usb+3.0+aktiv&qid=1574109191&sr=8-3 german amazon, but you'll find the exact same cable under a number of different brand names.
If you intend to do that, you'd likely need an active USB extension cable such as https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0179MXKU8/.
If you want to go much longer than 3m you're probably gonna need an active extension cable. This 5m one works, according to tests by some other users: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0179MXKU8/
Then you can plug it into a shorter A-to-C cable for even more length.
I am using a 16 ft. USB 3.0 active adapter and also have a 6 ft. USB 3.0 (non active) plugged into the same sensor (totaling in 22 ft.) no issues and shows up as USB 3.0 on Oculus Home.
These are the ones I used:
I've used both of these cables to successfully extend my Vive and Index
&#x200B;
Display port extension:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L1K1KDE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
&#x200B;
USB 3.0 extension:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
be sure to use an ACTIVE usb extension.
Bought this, works like a charm :
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Exactly. I'm using this 16ft cable along with an additional 1.5ft male to male cable (in order to have a male connecter on end to plug into vive link box):
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
My setup is like this
PC > 1.5ft USB 3.0 male to male > 16ft active USB 3.0 Extension > Vive Link Box > Odyssey+
Works flawlessly. No issues whatsoever. Only thing is you have to power cycle the link box after you plug the Odyssey in otherwise it won't be detected.
No problem. Best stick to the cables & cards etc in the FAQ here if you can, especially if using long cables at the usb max lengths. FWIW my more distant two sensors are fed by a single active 5m USB3 cable
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Into a powered USB3 hub
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00ZQFYWJY/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
& are the only thing on that particular usb controller.
I would get a USB wireless dongle, USB extension, and a directional antenna. To make this work, the dongle must have a removable antenna. If shipping is not an expense, I would buy step-by-step, starting with the dongle, then extension, finally the antenna (and antenna mounting solution).
I have no personal experience with this equipment. It was chosen because of features (like replaceable antennas) and Amazon reviews.
Alfa AWUS036AC Long-Range Dual-Band AC1200 Wireless USB Adapter With 2x Dual-Band (2.4GHz / 5GHz) external antenna for Extreme Distance Connection - Up to 300 Mbps - USB 3.0 - AC1200 Wireless chip - USB desktop Dock Included
CableCreation Gold (Long 16FT) Super Speed USB 3.0 Active Extension Cable, USB 3.0 Extender USB A-Male to A-Female Cable, 5Meter/16ft, Black
Alfa APA-M25 dual band 2.4GHz/5GHz 10dBi high gain directional indoor panel antenna with RP-SMA connector (compare to Asus WL-ANT-157)
All together, this is 95 CAD, but I expect the first item will solve the problem. If you do get the high-gain antenna, try it as a replacement of each of the side antennas on the USB dongle. This is because one antenna might be more important to the device then the other.
PSA: I was having issues with the sensor constantly disconnecting using the OP's active cable and Oculus' recommended Intateck card. Just purchased the CableCreation extension after reading this post and it seems to have solved my problem.
Just a reminder, you need a VR-ready PC to play PC VR games, so it needs to be a powerful gaming PC.
And you don't have to cancel your Anker cable necessarily. There are extensions you can get that make up for the length until the official Link cable comes out. I've heard from several people this one works for example.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8
That one will add 16 extra feet for a total of 22 feet for yours. And it's quite cheap.
I use my Rift about 10 ft from my PC so I purchased the recommended cable and PCIe card. Only needed if youre playing away from you main PC
THESE ARE PERFECT https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I got the recommended cable and got this to give me 20+ ft
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Wanted to make a quick post - using the Anker recommended cable (3M).
I tried the AmazonBasics USB 3.0 Extension Cable along with Cable Matters USB to USB Extension Cable - Both 3M - neither worked.
Finally, I tried CableCreation Active USB Extension Cable (Long 16.4 FT) - THIS WORKS, and it's way longer than the others.
I am using this one:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01FQ88CE6/
Also people are having luck with this:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/
This is my setup:
PC (Asus ROG STRIX Z390-I + EVGA RTX 2080 XC)
v
https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B01FQ88CE6/ (5m USB 3 active cable)
https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B07KBTH6TS/ (USB 3 Hub)
https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B07D7N96FL/ (3m USB-c 3.1 cable)
https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B078YRKTKM/ (USB-c 90 adapter)
v
Quest
Seems kinda janky. Some games run well and uh some really do not lol
Not faulting anything since well AMD isn't supported to begin with, and well it's a beta that JUST came out, but I'm hoping that it gets ironed out as the beta goes along. Really see the potential and it could be a great thing once it all gets sorted out.
Oh I should probably list specs? We're all probably running around trying to figure out exactly what cable to get so figured it'd help posting em.
GPU: PowerColor Red Dragon RX 5700
CPU: Ryzen 2600 OC'd to 4.1
Cable: JOTO USB Type C Cable Extra Long 10ft, USB-C 3.1 Type-C to USB 3.0 Type A Charging Data Cable [Heavy Duty Nylon Braided] for iPad Pro 12.9/11 Galaxy S10 S9 Note 10+ 10 9 Tab S4 Nintendo Switch (Black)
Extender (which is just for extra length both cables work): CableCreation Active USB Extension Cable (Long 16.4 FT), USB 3.0 Extender Male to Female Cord with Signal Booster Compatible with Oculus Rift, Xbox, PS4, USB Printer etc, Black
However, it will be VERY obvious to you when you need the third sensor.You'll find yourself frequently facing the direction without sensors and visual glitches everywhere, trying to turn around and deal with whatever in game objective you were dealing with previously.
If your not experiencing this then wait :)
As a List (That you didn't ask for) for what I bought for Roomscale:4 port /w controller USB 3.0 card (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XPUHO10)Additional Sensor (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0727WDPX6) - Note this includes an 2.0 USB extension cable, 2.0 can stretch farther without signal loss.
**Extra Equipment**10 Ft HDMI extension (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE) - For the Oculus Headset16 Ft USB Active extension (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8) - For the Oculus headset
Hangers for the Oculus cable (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XY5WKXW) - this just gets the cables from under your feet, it is my favorite
Ask and ye shall receive, I remembered: Number Pad,Jelly Comb Mechanical Numeric Keypad USB Braid Cable Numpad 22-key Number Pad - Black (Blue switch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E8U8HKW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_I0XIAbXRM8RTR
Is it this one: Jelly Comb ?
Woah i did not look at the cost of this in CAD holy crap that is expensive ($300 bucks plus $24 in shipping). Very good review on your part though, kinda sucks about the rebinding configurator though.
Completely unrelated but i feel like you might think this is cool. Its Outemu Blue Numpad (Outemu are Cherry knockoff's, but there pretty decent), and for $20, has full metal construction, braided cable, and some cheap Blue's. You may have seen it before cause it was on the front page like 4 months ago. Thought you might find it interesting because we have pretty similar tastes in keyboards IMO (i have been eying the model M and zealios purple for a while :P)
This one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E8U8HKW/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_qL4rxbM69NBJE
Was super happy when I found it.
Plug both in. It wouldn't matter unless you move it. If you really want to switch one off for whatever reason, you can always get a usb hub with switches for this.
Same issue. I picked up this small USB hub with power switches from Amazon to solve it:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Instead of that, I would go with a hub like this. A hub should work fine on the Shield and as long as it's usb 3.0 there should be no discernable difference. A hub is basically just an extension cord. It's not doing any data transfer itself.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522811031&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=usb+hub&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41FAbxXGUBL&amp;ref=plSrch
In case this helps...
I use this for my dongles. I would guess you could run this through a wall with a usb extension cable. The only problem I could see you running into might be power degradation if the cable is really long. I guess you'd need to try it to know for sure.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Sure, here you go https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This happens to me on a regular basis. And it's a known problem, as someone else has said.
To fix the issue of the moment, you have a few options, all sort of boil down to the same thing:
For a hub, I use this one so all I have to do is flip open my dash compartment and toggle the switch for the USB to disconnect/reconnect it. I also have a couple other drives with a ton of a variety of music on them.
Also - with the hub you need to use a low profile USB drive. I use SanDisk Cruzer Fit. Currently 32GB for $12, $18 for 64GB
That's meant to be used as an internal hard drive. You can use it as an external drive, but you'll need an enclosure like this.
This won't make a very good external hard drive. USB ports can't provide enough power, so you'll have to plug the enclosure into an outlet.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Lay-Flat-Docking-EC-DFLT/dp/B00LS5NFQ2/ref=lp_160354011_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465751078&amp;sr=1-3
Cheap, and if you have prime, you can get it Tuesday. :)
Edit: if you live near Louisville, you're welcome to use my pc for free.
I probably could have written that better instead of making assumptions. If I were to be in the mood for entertainment and a kindle was my only source I'd more than likely have porn for that, outside of entertainment of course I'd have books for when I needed them. I don't read books for entertainment now, if I'm reading a book it's going to be I.T based.
You don't need a few laptops just get an external enclosure like the one I have and stockpile hard drives and write on the drive label what's on it. Or you can setup a NAS or just build a computer with a case that could hold 16 hard drives and load them up.
I don't think USB can power that enough to run it. Buy a Dock that uses an external power supply. Something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Lay-Flat-Docking-EC-DFLT/dp/B00LS5NFQ2
As others have said, RAID is not a backup.
I'd do the following:
Something like this. It's a 3.5 inch SATA drive if you were wondering.
Sabrent makes a nice enclosure for 3.5 drives:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LS5NFQ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uQxwCbJ4MXK1T
Now if you're wanting a docking station:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H11KXCL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MSxwCbMEFG8NX
Windows won't install to an external drive. Download Hirens, linked to above. It has a "Mini XP" option so you have a Windows like interface. It also has a number of tools for diagnosing issues. Some are a bit long in the tooth since it hasn't been updated in a long time but things like Chkdsk don't need updates.
It sounds to me like you have one of three issues:
I'd put my money on the first one. You can use a Sata to USB adapter or docking station to plug the drive into another machine and see if it works there. If not then you know for sure it's the drive. Those adapters are handy things to have, turns any drive into an external.
There are lots of external HD enclosures. At USB 3 speeds, she shouldn't notice any speed issues. Here's an example.
But, wouldn't it be better to just copy the files to the new mbair for her?
I have this one and have never had any issues with it.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Lay-Flat-Docking-EC-DFLT/dp/B00LS5NFQ2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1541944608&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=hard+drive+dock&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51QlWnFgHPL&amp;ref=plSrch
So would one of these
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Lay-Flat-Docking-EC-DFLT/dp/B00LS5NFQ2/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1538755378&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=HDD+docking+station
along with one of these
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Cache-Desktop-Drive-WD10EZEX/dp/B013HNYVLA/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1538755218&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=1tb%2BHDD&amp;th=1
work?
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Lay-Flat-Docking-EC-DFLT/dp/B00LS5NFQ2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1457243710&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=internal+hard+drive+enclosure
This should work for you. Also, you can swap the drives out easily if you ever need to access another hardrive.
Alternatively you can just get a HDD dock. This will be a bit easier to do than a full enclosure for something that will likely only be used once to pull data.
Also, look at setting up Google Drive or something similar to back this stuff up going foward so you don't run into a similar situation in the future!
(If you have any questions please ask!)
I would pay attention to what you buy however. A lot of the newer SATA-USB adapters are made for USB 3.0 and are listed as being "optimized" for SSD drives and only have a single USB 3.0 connector. What this means is that if you don't plug the adapter into a USB 3.0 port (usually blue, but they are sometimes not marked as such) then your hard drive won't be able to draw the necessary power to spin the drives and read/write data.
The older models (like the one I use) got around this by using two USB 2.0 cables, one for power and date and one for strictly power. If you're not sure if you have USB 3.0 capable ports, I would make sure you look for something like this that has a separate power supply, just to be safe. If you think plugging in SATA drives is something you'll be doing fairly often, I would consider even splurging for a docking station (similar to this one) to make life easier for you.
I would actually recommend against using something specifically USB 3.0 ... I ordered myself a docking station for my SSD (this http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Lay-Flat-Docking-EC-DFLT/dp/B00LS5NFQ2) and it came with a 3.0 cable. I was having myself a frustrating time trying to get the Wii U to read it. Finally I remembered I had a 2.0 cable around from an old printer. Absolutely no issues since then. The Wii U seems really adamant against using 3.0.
Connect the adapter you linked to the HDD here. But you're better off getting an enclosure like this one. Some drives will require more power to properly turn on.
I just got three of these delivered today. Two are on USB 3.0 enclosures for use as backup drives and one is spare.
Here's the benchmarks of one of the backup drives via USB 3.0:
AS SSD Copy Bench: http://i.imgur.com/yfPhUWY.png
AS SSD sequential and access time: http://i.imgur.com/8ohnYPX.png
Obviously not anywhere close SSD, but hey, it's great for mass storage and also keep in mind this is via USB 3.0 connection.
This is the enclosure I'm using: http://smile.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Lay-Flat-Docking-EC-DFLT/dp/B00LS5NFQ2/
Sorry, I should have clarified - I was thinking a software RAID, or is that frowned upon? Right now I'm manually backing up to internal drives in a docking station every couple months. So anything is a step up from that.
I've looked at pre-built and splitting up my NAS / HTPC but getting a Drobo 5N, $600, and then a decent HTPC build able to transcode multiple streams, at least another $400+. It could double my build cost. But I think your note on using RAID 1+0 instead, is a better choice here. Thanks!
It does if you have the right kind of cable. One USB port does not put out enough power, but if you have a USB cable with 2 connectors on one end, it will get enough power for most drives. I used a 500 gig SATA drive on my Wii with this kind of cable.
But, here is a hard drive enclosure that has an external power supply and works with 2.5 and 3.5 inch drives.
You need to get it connected to SATA data and power connections, something like this (I can't personally vouch for the quality).
For best results stick to USB 3 (or higher), and make sure you have a USB 3 connector on your case/board to get the right transfer speeds.
> Is there a way to quickly connect the HDD to my laptop,
You'll need something like an external enclosure or a SATA to USB adapter to be able to connect it to your laptop. The enclosure/docking station I listed is a bit overkill as it works with both 2.5" and 3.5" disk drives. You can save almost half the price if you get a dedicated 2.5" OR 3.5" dedicated enclosure.
> permanently delete the already deleted files, then disconnect it and put it back where he had it?
Assuming you can get the HDD connected to your laptop, the free version of CCeaner has the capability to permanently remove those "deleted" files that still reside on the drive. Here's a youtube video showing how it's done (sorry the guy is a little hard to understand, but I think you'll get the idea). Good luck and feel free to ask questions should you have any.
If you only have a little bit of data to transfer, you could copy what you need to a USB flash drive and move it with the help of that.
If you have a fair bit of data and don't mind removing the hard drive temporarily, you could consider getting an enclosure like this to turn your desktop hard drive into an external drive. Then you can either keep it that way or copy the files you want over to your laptop, then put the drive back into the desktop.
If that HDD is working properly, you could go for the whole enclosure and use the thing as a proper external HDD - https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Lay-Flat-Docking-EC-DFLT/dp/B00LS5NFQ2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503218559&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=sata+usb+enclosure
Not sure if you're talking about this one, but I found one that looks good on Amazon, here
If you want something a bit more... sturdy, there's one here as well.
No :) By external enclosure, I mean One of these
Also, If you have made a time machine backup on the 1 TB external drive, you'll be able to restore all your files and settings and programs exactly as they were, with just one click. :)
However, you still need to:
Once this is done, you should have a bootable disk, that will work just like an OS X CD would, however it's a USB drive :)
Now... what you'll do is put the SSD you just bought into the external enclosure (from the link above) and you'll be able to plug it in like an external hard drive. Run Disk Utility on OS X and format the external SSD as a "Mac OS X Extended (Journaled)" drive.
Once you do that, back up your computer using Time Machine, to the external 1TB hard drive you already have.
Finally, Open up your mac, Swap the SSD for the HDD. This is the tutorial I'd watch in order to do this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y_vk2wKwmzg (they upgrade the RAM and the Hard drive to an SSD) I've watched the entire thing to make sure it's legitimate :)
:) Feel free to PM me anytime if you have issues with the process. I'll get back to you as quickly as I can. Cheers.
10TB WD Red on a 3.5" enclosure?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072F422FW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lx59AbACGGFJQ
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LS5NFQ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Vy59AbJJRMTKR
What size are you looking for? 1-3tb? Wd caviar blue 7200rpm with an external enclosure is a good way to go.
Sabrent usb 3.0 enclosure
WD 1tb Blue
You can use stuff like this to make your internal / external storage needs interchangeable and just purchase internal drives from that point on.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LS5NFQ2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468269311&amp;sr=1-3&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=517WZtWkh4L&amp;ref=plSrch
A USB 3 hard drive enclosure. Lets you swap drives out.
This one specifically, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LS5NFQ2/
Are you having any issues with your external drive disconnecting and reconnecting?
I have one of these (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LS5NFQ2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) and put a 2.5" drive in it and randomly (every 5-15 min) the disk drive disconnects from the xbox and reconnects saying "your drive is now ready".
I got a different external enclosure and it seems to work but I can't keep it as it isn't mine.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LS5NFQ2/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
Yeah, the other option I was looking at is this type of enclosure that would make it connect via USB.
Speakers: Edifier R1280DB.
Go with 2.0 bookshelf speakers, not 2.1 computer speakers. These have Bluetooth, optical, and coax. Oh, and they sound amazing.
Headphones are tricker. Will you also be using them with a console or a phone at any point? Want to keep them on while running to get a cup of tea or take a leak? Do you play FPS's?
You have few different options:
Convenience be damned you want awesome audio quality above all else.
Wireless PC and PS4.
Gaming headphones.
The Blue Yeti doesn't come with a pop-filter.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00N1YPXW2
Yeeeee Blackout Blue Yeti! I paid full price for mine but they are $90 on Amazon right now!
Enjoyed the vid. Audio quality was the only issue imo, as others have mentioned. Here's a really popular mic I've seen many Twitch streamers using: https://smile.amazon.com/Blue-Microphones-Yeti-USB-Microphone/dp/B00N1YPXW2/ref=zg_bs_3015406011_1
Thanks for making the vid!
Audio Technica ATR-2500 for $75
CAD u37 for $50
Snowball iCE for $50
Samson Go
Samson C01 for $70
If you can pony up a bit, the Blue Yeti Blackout for $130 will blow these other mics out of the water (not to say that they're bad, but this one is really good in comparison).
Also, don't forget to get a stand (preferably a scissor stand for your desk) and a pop filter.
This seems to be a popular one. Blue Yeti USB Microphone - Blackout Edition https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N1YPXW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_F3eazb565E53S
This is the one I want to get
Shure SM7B Vocal Dynamic Microphone, Cardioid https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002E4Z8M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_c5eazbXZ73MRP
I have a pair of the 58x jubilee on the way, and I’m going to be using my blue yeti. I also have this mic arm and pop filter combo with this shock mount that I have been using for the past couple of months and has worked out really well.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N1YPXW2/ref=twister_B07F77QHP2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Purchased last year around christmas for around 100 and it came with a game (watch dogs 2 I think?)
Try this (Blue Yeti Mic) and this mic stand
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These might look a little like his buddies. But the mic is very recommended from streamers and such, I personally us it and it is great. If he likes his headphones then a new mic would be another step to improve his audio.
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I would say that I am not sure this is ideal for him, just trying to help as much as I can based on the original post!
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EDIT: This is a cheaper mic made by the same company that is also a great option. Best of luck!
Totally doable via software or hardware, and can be pretty cheap.
It really depends on your mic -- the Yetis have a headphone port on them, so if it's powered the sound will go through the headphone jack. And if you have a USB mic, garageband/audacity/audition have monitoring options that can be pretty quick (I often use mine with unnoticeable lag).
If you have an XLR mic, there are a handful of mini soundboards that will allow you to plug your headphones in directly, w/o a computer. If the mic is powered then you might be able to get an XLR to 1/8" converter and plug the headphones directly in, if it's unpowered that wouldn't work so well.
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Hope this helps!
My birthday was yesterday, and I got this mic and this new longboard coming Sunday and Monday! I'm beyond excited for both of them and its driving me nuts that I have to wait even until tomorrow for the mic
You could get a Blue Yeti it has an omnidirectional mode which is pretty powerful just turn up the gain and you'll get to hear every squeak, belch and fart your players make. I currently use a Blue Yeti myself and you can do a lot of stuff with the software to help with your problem.
http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Microphones-Yeti-USB-Microphone/dp/B00N1YPXW2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1422040932&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=blue+yeti+pro+usb+microphone
I have heard great things about the Yeti by Blue Microphones its also #1 on amazon for computer microphones, so that helps.
If you're willing to go a little over budget I'd pick up the [Logitech C920] (https://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/hd-pro-webcam-c920) and the [Blue Yeti Microphone] (https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Yeti-USB-Microphone-Blackout/dp/B00N1YPXW2/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520708427&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=blue+yeti). Both of these are quality equipment that even bigger streamers with a large budget use. If that's outside of your price range, I'd switch out the Yeti for the [Blue Snowball] (https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Snowball-iCE-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B014PYGTUQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520708583&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=blue+snowball). It's still a good quality microphone for around half the price of the Yeti. I'm not sure if there is anything better at that price range but I've heard nothing dealbreaking about either the Yeti/Snowball or the C920.
As for tips, I'd recommend having some way to look at chat and whatever alert system you use (We use StreamLabs) without having to alt-tab out of game constantly. Whether it's a two monitor setup, a tablet/phone, or even playing in windowed mode, interacting with the people watching is definitely important.
Amazon prime now is not available in 97% of all towns, cities, and villages. My comment was without any extra promos considered.
But yes your comment is valid if you can use that promo.
Also the blackout is 71.99 for me right now
https://primenow.amazon.com/dp/B00N1YPXW2?m=A2LQ1988UZZWEF&amp;qid=1481938433&amp;sr=1-0&amp;ref_=pn_sr_sg_0_img_A2LQ1988UZZWEF
USB mic.
For this podcast, we used a Yeti Microphone sitting in the middle of the table. There were a number of problems with this - any contact with the table is audible, phones vibrating are audible, etc. The editing process was extensive. I have written a list of Best Practices for my group to use in the future to try to cut back on these. The sound quality is pretty excellent, though.
C920. Buy once, cry once - the resolution is only part of the equation of good pictures across more than 3ft of distance. Do you have an area microphone for the table? If not, a Blue Yeti or Snowball will do nicely without breaking the bank (relatively speaking, in any case). You can use the microphone on the webcam, but all of them suck in my experience. Try it first, but be aware that you may desire more.
I recommend getting some Studio Over Ear Headphones, and getting a Mod Mic or Desk Mic to go along with it. I bought an Antlion ModMic for the wife, and it works great. Sounds great as well compared to all the shitty gaming headset mics. My setup is a Razer Seiren Pro that I got on a banging deal almost $100 cheaper than typical pricing :). I have a mic stand that sits right above my monitors. It does pick up echoes if I have my speakers turned up too loud, but it's not too bad. I use voice meeter banana to route all my audio to 2 separate audio devices so I can just mute my speakers and put headphones on.
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Recommendations:
Desk Mic: Blue Yeti - ~$120, Blue Snowball ~$50
Mod Mic: Antlion ModMic ~$60, V Moda BoomPro ~$30 (V Moda Mic wont work on all headphones)
Headphones: r/Headphones | Read about headphones.
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They come down to preference for the user typically. I have M-Audio Q40's with Beyerdynamic's EDT 770 V Replacement Pads. You probably won't be able to find any Q40's online, but I bought mine back in 2010 and I still use them today. I've replaced the audio cable probably 10+ times now. They are built to endure, and they are not that comfortable with the stock pads. Put the EDT 770 V pads on and feels like a cloud. I personally also have a desk headphone amp to get clearer/crisper sound.
As I said, this all comes down to preference. You need to research specific items you are interested in. Try to find reviews on reddit or forums. I wouldn't follow "reviews" that are articles on web pages. Half of those are BS and are generally favored towards the provider of the equipment unfortunately.
Typical google searches would be:
M-Audio Q40 headfi
Blue Yeti Pro reddit
Blue Yeti Pro Issues reddit
mod mic reddit
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Good luck on your ventures! Let me know if you have any other questions.
PS - If you have a mechanical keyboard, invest in o-rings/pads to help with the clickiness, or if you don't have a mechanical keyboard and you are looking for one, get silent keys. I forget the actual switch types names.
Ok.
If you want to pursue good audio I recommended the PreSonus Eris 3.5, they are good budget studio monitors. For headphones, I would recommend the Beyerdynamic DT 990 Pro 250 Ohm version. These are very good headphones for the price. Then I would pair the Beyerdynamic headphones with a good Audio Interface like Focusrite Scarlett Solo (3rd Gen) it's a good budget audio interface that doesn't break the bank. For a microphone, a Blue Yeti USB mic will do well. However, if you want an XLR microphone, which is better btw. A well-rounded XLR microphone is the Audio-Tecnica AT2020.
Microphone suggestion:
Depends on if you want to buy a audio interface (XLR-USB) and a mic or a combo. I started out with a audio-technica ATR2100. Its a great mic for the price and you can use it without an usb interface.
Comes with a little stand and and you can hook it up to USB. I would get foam cover for it so you don't pop your pees. (Heck I'll send you mine for free)
Or you can get the humungus Blue yetti mic all the streamers buy.
I have a Heil PR40 I use for my recording and radio stuff.
Bon Appetite: Claire is my waifu dog.
GoT: Should I get back into the madness? I'm a few seasons behind.
Travel Recommendations:
I like hiking and nature so natural parks are my Jam. Colorado/Utah are awesome. I'm actually planning a trip to Cuba myself. Have you considered Hawaii?
Love the yeti mic so much. A lot of my friends use it too.
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Yeti-USB-Microphone-Blackout/dp/B00N1YPXW2/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526250163&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=Yeti+mic&amp;dpID=310-tLIc6uL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
I personally have a Blue Yeti Blackout Edition on a spider mount connected to a scissor arm. Set it to cardioid mode. I usually voice chat with my friends and they don't hear my typing unless I'm super violent with my keys. Though they can hear when I jiggle my foot since that runs the vibrations through my desk.
This is the one I use:
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Ultra-Slim-4-Port-Data/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484686464&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=anker+usb+hub
It works great, no issues. :D
Anker
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-4-Port-Macbook-Surface-Notebook/dp/B00XMD7KPU
I use this USB hub to let me plug more than two things into the front USB ports. It's cheap and effective.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1
This is a great investment. Living in an apartment complex, I experience several quick power cuts a month. I have my tv, receiver, game systems, modem and router hooked into this and never even notice. Internet stays on, cable stays on, gaming stays on.
I use this one for my computer.
These will keep your electronics safe.
Personally I've used CyberPower UPS units like this one for many years without issue (this particular one has an average rating of 4.5 stars with 2800 reviews [73% rate it 5 stars]). However, I think the CyberPower warranty may only cover the UPS device itself.
Another popular brand that competes with CyberPower is APC.
Everyone should get themselves one of these!
It's enough to keep my PC, monitor, modem, and router all on so even when the power goes out You can still game and your internet still works!
Lots of options but you don't need a pure sinewave, many use a simulated one and it's perfectly fine.
The issue is the pass through.. You need it to be big enough to carry the load of your rig at full power off of the battery.
I have this one and it keeps up with my high end gaming rig with a 1200watt psu..
CyberPower CP1500AVRLCD Intelligent LCD UPS System, 1500VA/900W, 12 Outlets, AVR, Mini-Tower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HGhwDbZ1PWS6Z
Battery backups aren't meant to keep your stuff running for an hour or two, they're for giving you a few minutes time in order to gracefully shut down your devices. If you want an hour or two you'll need to get a seriously overpowered UPS and at that point you're better off getting a generator. My 1500VA UPS gives me ~20 minutes with my ~225W load. Mine is a 1500VA Cyberpower UPS it's nice and I like it but it's not a rack mount, if that's what you want.
should be able to run your needs for half a day:
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523232919&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=ups+backup
Try a UPS that has active filtering. I had that happen quite a bit and then I got something like linked below and I have no more problems. You'd be surprised at the fluctuations that can happen in your residential electrical.
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK
Sorry for being noob...but what's %output THD? For example, here's the simulated sinewave cyberpower model:
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Mini-Tower-Features/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486670594&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=cyberpower+ups
They talk about how it's great for "desktop computers" but in their table they don't say it is rated for active PFC power supplies. Most of the people here (if they follow advice on BAPC) will buy an 80+ rated PSU that will always be active PFC. My impression is that it might work, but the only guaranteed ones are "pure sinewave" UPS units. I assume there is something better about the "pure sinewave" models that make them rated for PFC power supplies.
Does this %output THD have something to do with that? How do we determine it? (I didn't see anything on the product page on amazon, for example)
One decent unit is enough for most. The UPS will have two sets of ports on the back, those that have battery backup and those that only act like a regular power strip. Plug the PCs and the main monitor from each into the battery side, and the rest into the surge protection side.
How long the battery will last will depend on the actual draw from whatever is attached, the included software will let you monitor that information
I use an older version of this guy - https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Mini-Tower-Features/dp/B000FBK3QK
I had two of those little guys (older more brick like form) but after a good run (5 - 7 years) one of them died outright, and the other had very little capacity left. They were cheap enough that I just replaced them with a bigger one, check out this 1500VA bad boy
It comes with a nice little PC app that lets you monitor battery status, and estimates how long it can run based on current power draw.
Right now, I have mine powering a cable modem, wi-fi router, 16 port Ethernet switch, VOIP box, a small 2 disk NAS box, raspberry pi 2, raspberry pi 3, and a Panasonic wireless phone base station.
Total draw: 27 watts, estimated uptime: 467 minutes.
We use APC at work and I have a CyberPower at home (on Amazon). Happy with both brands. I went with CyberPower for cost as it had great reviews. Have had the unit running for a few years now and it does the job.
Hmm, what about something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-1500VA-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449274420&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=cyberpower
Specially if your a Web Designer least you want is doing some extensive work and out of sudden all is lost due to a power shortage. :p
Any electronic over 150$ Plug it into UPS like this one.
Im guessing your outlet, and or your house has shity wiring.
i literally just bought two of these last week after having a 10 sec power outage. DS1515+ I tested and i have a good 70min before power is lost from the UPS. the 2nd UPS is hooked up to my desktop and monitor. roughly 2hr 10min before power is completely lost.
edit: adding pics
Synology UPS
Desktop UPS
This is the strip I mounted on the underside:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M7O0EDQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This is the UPS I'm using:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FBK3QK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Can you tell me how it compares to this cyberlink model they look pretty much the same to me except price? Also what kind of usage did it see? Thanks! https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FBK3QK/ref=aw_wl_ov_dp_1_2?colid=259V432JVTPRO&amp;coliid=I3A101U7F0OE45&amp;vs=1
Hi, r/headphones!!
I've never really owned a pair of headphones, IEM's are as close as I've gotten. I had been using a budget pair of Panasonic RPHJE120K IEM's and had a pair of Bose OE2 headphones until my puppy chewed them both up.
I've frequented this sub for some time, the choice selection and the setups you guys have are ridiculous. I've a very basic understanding of audio still but hope to improve. My hat goes off to all of you. So here goes..
What are your thoughts on the VSonic VSD1S? Or maybe something similar? I will be using them for gaming by plugging them into my Cyber Acoustics Subwoofer Satellite System when I don't want it blasting in the middle of the night; for music on my iPhone, and for some /r/asmr videos whenever I need to relax.
Thanks again!!
I'd use a xbox to vga and get some desktop speakers.
[Xbox to VGA] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002DGPNOM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1397109267&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40)
[Stereo to aux] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009JFF7A/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_w-Jrtb0HZJM5C)
[Decent Speakers] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0027VT6V4/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1397112825&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=SX200_QL40)
They are these ones [here.]
(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015C30J0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) For $30 I don't think you will find a better set of speakers on Amazon, and I am a fan of them, considering the price, but from what I have heard from friends that actually know about speakers, these are the best set of speakers you can get under $50 on amazon.
I know you said built in speakers but id say get this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=24-009-483 and a nice pair of speakers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0027VT6V4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_9ffyub0DKY1XY
I hope this helps.
(Sorry about formatting im on mobile)
Cyber Acoustics CA-3602a - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0027VT6V4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_9t9Wub1THVRSS
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0027VT6V4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_9t9Wub1THVRSS
I have a Cyber Acoustics 2.1 System (CA-3602 and I'm very happy with them.
EDIT: Especially for $40.
Cyber Acoustics Subwoofer Satellite System. I bought them on amazon a while back because my friend had them as well. I can't claim to know too much about audio, but for being a pretty inexpensive setup I was very satisfied with how it sounded.
Only complaint about these is the headphone jack for the desktop tuner needs more power.
Other than that, they sound great, good (adjustable) bass, pretty solid for the price.
The speakers are these. I have them and they're great for the price.
or even: http://www.amazon.com/Cyber-Acoustics-Subwoofer-Satellite-CA-3602/dp/B0027VT6V4/ref=pd_cp_e_3
This Cyber Acoustics set has been great and for headphones I use Sony MDR-V6
You don't have to spend much for what you're looking for. These are the go-to 2.1 system for those on a budget. $40 and 1500 reviews to convince you. I have them in an 8x8 room and I bought a Klipsch 2.1 for $100 at the same time. Returned the Klipsch system because the Cybers perform better.
I ceiling mounted these in the front of the classroom:
https://www.amazon.com/Cyber-Acoustics-CA-3602a-Computer-Subwoofer/dp/B0027VT6V4
I haven't had one go bad yet and they are loud enough to be heard in the next class over.
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I can second the recommendation for these speakers. Available on amazon.
For the price they are freaking awesome. I really have no complaints against them. 38 bucks on Amazon.
These speakers are the tits. They have pretty awesome sound (I'm not much of audiophile) and they have way more volume than you would expect. It's even better if you have Amazon Prime and you get free 2 day shipping. Highly recommended:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0027VT6V4/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I would go with an HP microserver. That should give you one internal SATA and 4 hot swap.
Or use an external JBOD like this: https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-ProBox-HF2-SU3S2-SATA-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4
Do you all run any kind of stress tests on yours before shucking? I just bought two more today and I'm wondering if it's really worth testing them. I sure hope mine are Reds so I don't have to deal with the stupid 3.3 pin thing. I plan on putting them in my MediaSonic Probox here. Should I have an issue if they are whites?
EDIT: Got home and found out both are reds! Sweet. Just gonna run HD Sentinel tests on them I think before shucking.
been thinking of just going esata. my old cpu still has 4 drives in it that i dont want to xfer.
https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-ProBox-HF2-SU3S2-SATA-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510186344&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=4+drive+nas&amp;dpID=51LTv47F8OL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
you could just add a USB3 JBOD enclosure and put your drives in that. one connector lots of disks.
edit: like this one
Yeah, so any external enclosure should do. My only recommendation is to go with one that supports eSata instead of a USB only one. USB enclosures often make it harder than necessary to run SMART health tests on your drives, which is something you'll want to be able to do on your array. See http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r28235888-Getting-S-M-A-R-T-data-from-USB-external-drives
Also, take this with a grain of salt, but I've personally had bad experiences running an always-on raid array on this mediasonic bad boy. It works 99% of the time, but once a month or so it just powers down all the drives and I have to reassemble my array to get it back. If you're gonna leave your array running 24-7, I'd stay away from that one.
I do all of this on Ubuntu with a ZFS array, so this is just a question. Have you tried Storage Spaces for this? I would think you could create pools out of your similar sized drives. And it is built into Windows 10.
My Media 'Server':
Ubuntu Desktop OS
Docker Containers running all the usual Apps.
Dell Optiplex 3020SFF
16GB RAM
Root Drive= 64GB SSD
Media Cache Drive=64GB SSD
MediaSonic ProBox connected via USB3
4x4TB Raw Storage = 7TB usable storage
https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-ProBox-HF2-SU3S2-SATA-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4
Doesn't need to be a NAS. One of these: https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-ProBox-HF2-SU3S2-SATA-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519844180&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=hf2-su3s2 and a few internal drives work.
That depends on the OS you are running on that box. If it is Unraid for example you would be able to add external drives in an external enclosure for example. Or you could "simply" switch to a bigger case and just go from there. Or as an extreme case scenario you could buy another server and mount the disk there as network mounts (assuming your network is fast enough) or something like that. THe question is what you are willing to pay for that expansion. But yeah, the simplest I guess would be something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-ProBox-HF2-SU3S2-SATA-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4/ref=sr_1_2?fst=as%3Aoff&qid=1568789811&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A2886986011&rnid=2886899011&s=pc&sr=1-2
(NOt this one in particular, I have no experience with this one, it was just the first I found. Just look for eSATA or if possible external SAS could be even possible, and not USB).
Something like this may work.
https://www.amazon.ca/Mediasonic-ProBox-HF2-SU3S2-Drive-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4
Yeah most of the enclosures like this don't have the best reviews. I kept eyeing the Mediasonic ones, but nothing was overwhelmingly positive.
Do you need all storage to be accessible at the same time, or are you able to swap multiple drives in and out?
If you need all storage connected and accessible at the same time, I'd say go for 4 x 8 TB hard drives
https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Expansion-Desktop-External-STEB8000100/dp/B01HAPGEIE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497386514&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=STEB8000100
and pair it with a probox:
https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-ProBox-HF2-SU3S2-SATA-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497386559&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=probox
With tax, that will put you right up against $1000 for 32 TB in a fairly enclosed and accessible setup.
I was looking at similar boxes recently, but for esata. I ended up not needing one, but this was the one I was planning on buying (it has esata and usb 3.0):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003X26VV4
Well, it's not strictly a NAS, but for the past few years, I've created my own pseudo-NAS by using two MediaSonic ProBox's attached via USB3 to my Win10 Plex server. It can also connect via eSATA if you want. It's alot cheaper than a NAS box at $100, and they do have versions you can RAID. I run StableBit DrivePool to make management of the media files I put on it easier (and DrivePool can setup a parity drive as well).
https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-ProBox-HF2-SU3S2-SATA-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4.
Are you opposed to connecting something externally? One of these works great especially if the drives primarily hold media. I had one previously and had no problem getting max read/writes off the HDDs I had in it connected via USB3
I have used this for about a year without any problems. I works well with the USB-3 interface.
https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-ProBox-HF2-SU3S2-SATA-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4
Ok so I think your going about this the wrong way.
I’m try to keep it as simple as possible.
Most people use a NAS along with a Plex server because a NAS just can’t do it on its own. They don’t have the proper hardware to perform as good as a computer. You will not be happy!
If you want simple the I would buy a Nvidia Shield and set it up at your server.
I would also buy an external storage device for your hard drives. You can use a nas but you can also use something like this.
The shield might be a little intimidating to you when you set it up but trust me it’s your best plug and play solution available.
I rebooted and it finally recognized the enclosure, but only one of the 3 drives. I'm using the Mediasonic Probox HF2-SU3S2
http://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-ProBox-HF2-SU3S2-Drive-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4
If you want a 4 bay, then go with something like THIS.
If you want cheaper, than you'll have to use bigger drives, and get a 2 bay for around $50 - $60.
Kind of like u/RedXon said, I would recommend against a USB 3.0 hub you will probably run into more headaches than it is worth.
If you are dead set on continuing to use your Nvidia Shield as the server I would recommend getting something like this drive Enclosure
One of these, they also have an eight bay model
https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-ProBox-HF2-SU3S2-SATA-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4
Oh yeah? OK. Thoughts on Mediasonic?
https://www.amazon.ca/Mediasonic-ProBox-HF2-SU3S2-Drive-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1502056429&amp;sr=1-1
Mediasonic ProBox does exactly what you want - 4 drives per device, USB or eSATA, not super expensive. I use a couple of them for my JBOD pool. They have an 8-drive capacity model but it's not worth the extra money imo.
Here's a $100 solution to consider...
Mediasonic ProBox HF2-SU3S2 4 Bay 3.5" SATA HDD Enclosure - USB 3.0 & eSATA Support SATA 3 6.0Gbps HDD transfer speed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003X26VV4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tGzxybECG1SXZ
These work really well.
Mediasonic ProBox HF2-SU3S2 4 Bay 3.5" SATA HDD Enclosure - USB 3.0 & eSATA Support SATA 3 6.0Gbps HDD transfer speed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003X26VV4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_PamHzlHkrmcjv
4 drive USB3 DAS => https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-ProBox-HF2-SU3S2-SATA-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4
8 drive USB3 DAS => https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-H82-SU3S2-ProBox-External-Enclosure/dp/B005GYDMYG
I am using a late 2012 base model.
The enclosure I got is available on Amazon for $99.
I have no idea what some of the reviews are taking about with them not working with USB 3 speeds. Mine is smoking fast. Make sure you set the Mini to never sleep so you don't run into RAID corruption issues. But since it is going to be a media downloader, you wouldn't want it to sleep anyway. Plus, the power footprint is tiny.
I am using these drives. They were on sale for $149 each, and will be again I would assume.
So something like this? or even this?
I mean, they seem decently priced for what they do, and especially if you're providing the drives then yeah.
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Ultra-Slim-4-Port-Data/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=sr_1_25?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1466656064&amp;sr=1-25-spons&amp;keywords=amazon+2+port+usb+3.0+cable+hub&amp;psc=1
and 2 of these
https://www.amazon.com/Female-Socket-Super-Extension-Cable/dp/B00MMVMIRI/ref=sr_1_39?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1466655990&amp;sr=1-39&amp;keywords=usb+3.0+splitter+cable
Anker:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6BwYAb657QH1F
I use [this one](Anker 4-Port USB 3.0 Ultra Slim Data Hub for Mac, PC, USB Flash Drives and Other Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_b31.yb19SGTT7) and have the PU plugged in to it with no issues whatsoever.
You would need the power brick, yes. Get one of these instead - small enough to always keep in your bag without issue.
Anker 4 port USB 3.0 Hub (nice and thin. I own this one. Ten dollars!)
Anker 4 port USB 3.0 Hub (bigger, nicer to put on desk, think it is long enough to not "hang" off the usb plug on the SP)
Sending it to Sony will cost you more in the long run, try a USB hub.
Here's a link to a cheap affordable one Anker 4-Port USB 3.0 Ultra Slim Data Hub for Macbook, Mac Pro / mini, iMac, Surface Pro, XPS, Notebook PC, USB Flash Drives, Mobile HDD, and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vIlpzbMBRVAHC
Link to a adapter for the controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075451QFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kyY4BbVCCWFVZ
Link to the USB adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077FY7831/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4zY4BbZEWT287
Link to the USB hub https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qBY4BbFWZMR51
Like this.
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-4-Port-Macbook-Surface-Notebook/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=asc_df_B00XMD7KPU/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=198076677096&amp;hvpos=1o1&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=9084696496146917929&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9011027&amp;hvtargid=pla-379048175402&amp;psc=1
Yes, but I just googled a bit.
It seems like the Nintendo Switch supports USB Hubs, meaning you could just buy any USB hub and if it doesn't work you could always send it back. Just do it through Amazon.
Example: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-4-Port-Macbook-Surface-Notebook/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1539641683&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=usb+hub
I was finally able to find a reddit user to trade so that I'll have two lightning cables for the front dock (I have no interest in wireless charging).
Does anybody have a recommendation for something I can use to split the USB port so I can charge an iPhone while also using the dashcam? I was looking at this Anker unit on Amazon. Thanks!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_45IBCb16H523D
I had the same problem. And plugging in the charger at the same time as someone else suggested didn’t help either. I just used a non-powered usb hub in between and it worked fine. This is the one i used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_SZvNBbARNQKVP
Anker 4-Port USB 3.0 Ultra Slim Data Hub for Mac, PC, USB Flash Drives and Other Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_19U7ybMQYCGBR
Bro. Here's my setup:
https://bourgedesign.com/products/arc-hub
then add:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NOP70EC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_TlIw6xqtN8ByF
to this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_3cVe3OX2LpqR8
this is for when Im on the road. At home I use my monitor as a hub:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y2XRYB2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_T.NLzb2V2XBJ5
usb-c is great. I can hotswap my xps and rbs with one cable
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Ultra-Slim-4-Port-Data/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480993831&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=4+port+usb+3+hub
This ones always around $9.99, so unless you value the aluminum case...
This Hub works with the dashcam on my Model 3
You could get a USB hub to exoand your number of USB ports. This should let you use a USB wifi adapter.
Just thought I'd mention that it's possible (though clunky) to bypass the power limits using a USB hub like this inline with the dongle (in between the dongle and the keyboard). I do this with my iPad and my Mechmini (which annoyingly "draws too much power").
I had my little guy in a 5g when I got him and used these to keep it cool. (linking directly to usa amazon just so you know what I got but you'd probably be better off finding the same/similar on a more appropriate site for your location!)
USB Fans (x2) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XN24GY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - these are SUPER quiet - could barely hear them when running!
USB Hub - I covered up the two remaining ports with tape so water didn't get in it, but you could also just get a hub with two ports instead of four! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XMD7KPU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Extension cable to plug in the hub to my power strip that had usb outlets. If your power strip doesn't have a usb port then you'll need to get a brick as well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00007FGU5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
&#x200B;
In the North Carolina summer at 90-110 degrees F, this kept my tank at about 62-65 F
I'd recommend getting an SD card with a faster read/write speed.
A class 4 SD card will give you longer load times.
You might have probably ordered the one you posted already, but I thought I should share this anyway.
It's a UHS I Micro SD card with an adapter for a regular SD Card slot. [Link: Amazon]
I used the same one with the adapter in my original 3DS and I have the same one in my N3DSXL right now. (albeit without the adapter) The faster speed does make a difference in load times and loading up games.
I looked up Pitendo and my god is that a ripoff, there's maybe 60 bucks worth of things there. Here, look:
This
https://www.amazon.com/Vilros-Raspberry-Basic-Starter-Kit--Clear/dp/B01D92SSX6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469219491&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=raspberry+pi+3
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-microSDHC-Standard-Packaging-SDSQUNC-032G-GN6MA/dp/B010Q57T02/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469219519&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=32+gb+microsd
And whichever one of these you want https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&amp;field-keywords=usb+controller
Is all you need, and you can honestly go for a Pi 2 Model B if you want to, and a smaller sd card maybe. Everything but the most demanding Dreamcast and N64 games work great on a 2, and N64 hardly works regardless of the model.
Honestly it's not a difficult set up, at least in my opinion. There's some troubleshooting you can do if you try and work out some more advanced things, but the basic set up is a breeze.
All you do is download the RetroPie image from the site, download Win32DiskImager, and write it to the card. It takes about 30 seconds to set up and maybe 3 clicks total.
After that, you put the microsd card into the pi, plug in your controllers, boot it up, follow the on screen controller config, and you're good to go.
Adding roms is as easy as putting in \\Retropie into any explorer window on you computer, if the pi is on your network, and dropping them into the console's folder. Everything else should be auto-configured and require little to no work on your end.
The last thing you are allowed to do is give up! :) Give up when the world burns, but never before.
SanDisk Ultra is my go-to for Raspberry Pis.
UHS-1 is equivalent to Class 10 so you're good. Well, on specs - you can get name brand cards for $11 on Amazon. That's the one I use and it's fine.
4 GB is enough to hack your 3DS (you need ~3 GB of free space), but you'll run out of room very quickly once the process is done. I recommend upgrading to a 32 GB card (or larger)
ROBO 3D R1+ $799
Raspberry Pi 2 $38
WiFi adapter $10
Color touchscreen + case $50
Power supply $10
32GB SD Card $13
OctoPrint $0
Large build volume, heated glass bed, self leveling, wireless 3D printer $920
Ah, I see. Then you might want to get one of these. I got the exact same one from this seller (nds-card.com) and it works wonderfully on my DS Lite and DSi. Simply add the card firmware & your games to a FAT32-formatted memory card and play.
You'll also want to get one of these as well; a Micro SD card. I have a 32GB in mine, and I'm able to hold roughly 106 300MB-sized games.
Here ya go bro!
And you'll need one of these to go with it.
Pros:
Cons:
Neutral:
All in all, I'm happy with my purchase, though I only paid $50 for it. I'm planning to buy another one to point backwards at some point in the future. I also plan to hard wire them into my truck so that I don't have ugly cigarette plugs in every power port of my truck.
I do wish I could mount it up higher on my windshield, but my windshield has a bunch of dots along the top for aesthetic and sun blockage, and the suction cup won't stick over those dots :/
If you buy individually you save a few dollars. I already had an HDMI cable, so didn't need to buy one. Also the micro-SD card comes with a adapter to full size SD card, so don't need the USB converter (unless you don't have an SD card reader), plus you get a brand name card. My kit was only 39.99, looks like price up $3, so it might go back down to 39.99 again.
Comes out to $66.50 (and less if you don't need an HDMI cable).
Pi + Power cable
https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Micro-Supply-Listed/dp/B01C6FFNY4/
32gb card
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-microSDHC-Standard-Packaging-SDSQUNC-032G-GN6MA/dp/B010Q57T02/
Clear case
https://www.amazon.com/SB-Components-Clear-Case-Raspberry/dp/B00MQLB1N6/
HDMI if you need one
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable-Standard/dp/B014I8SSD0/
It depends on which Samsung ones and which Sandisk ones are you talking about.
I'm looking at the prices on Amazon, a 32 GB EVO Select from Samsung is $10, while a 32 GB Sandisk Ultra is $15, and both of them claim the same "up to 80 MB/s transfer speed", but I'm sure that's just the read speed and write speeds might be better on the Sandisk, hence why it's more expensive, but I haven't checked so I'm not sure.
I haven't heard of Samsung's Evo Select line before, judging from the price I assume it's a cheaper and worse performing line than the Evo, but you can also buy a 32 GB Samsung Evo+ for $15, so Samsung microSD's aren't more expensive.
I'm going to assume you have the camera, a battery, and a housing.
You'll need a suction cup mount, and a micro SD card, class 10 or higher. The Hero4 supports up to 128 GB. The Hero3 is 64 GB, and the Hero supports up to 32 GB.
The capacity will be determined by how much footage you want to record. At 1080 30 fps you will get just under 3 hrs of record time on a 64 GB card.
The New 3DS uses Micro sd cards like this one:
http://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-microSDHC-Standard-Packaging-SDSQUNC-032G-GN6MA/dp/B010Q57T02/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452820095&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=micro+sd+card
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010Q57T02/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This is the SD card that I got. It is 32 GB. For the price difference between 16 and 32 (~$4), I thought 32 was worth it. I did not have to reformat it or anything. It was great. No problems thus far.
If you're interested, I have 13 GB left and have installed:
For 10-20 games, I'm inclined to say you might be more satisfied with a 32 GB SD. Hope that helps! Happy gaming :)
The parts I ordered were:
• Raspberry Pi 3 - $35.97
• PiTFT Plus 480x320 3.5" - $38.91
• Sandisk Ultra 32GB - $13.95
Total: $88.83
I'll be hardwiring it using an Ethernet cable even though the Raspberry Pi 3 comes wifi enabled.
If you were to get the OctoPi Kit it would cost about $155.36 and wouldn't even come with a touch screen.
My setup
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00KZ0J452/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 (which i see is now out of stock, but similar models will be good to I'd assume)
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B010Q57T02/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00OZ5OIFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B002KL8J8W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Been using it since March and the camera has frozen probably 3 times in total, I just unplug to let it die and it restarts fine.
I'm getting a New 3DS XL for X-mas so I was in the same boat as you, on google/reddit/amazon/youtube I was looking to see what I should get. Here's what I ultimately decided on:
And of course charger, usb charger, and a plethora of games.
Edit: Typos 'n stuff.
This one. $12, 32gigs, 80mbps. Just remember, before you use it, go to settings, scroll all the way down, and hit "format memory card".
But I would try formatting your card first before spending the money.
With the SD cards and the internal storage, it's possible that they're going to be doing some caching of assets that are likely to be needed soon to the onboard storage when playing games. That would be a possible way to get around people who buy the cheapest, slowest SD cards. They could also warn when a cheap, slow SD card is inserted and that it may slow things down.
But you're quite correct that newer SD cards have vastly improved read-write speeds. U3 cards are still a bit pricier than others, but not really too much more than a C10/U1 card. And if you look at the read speeds, you're getting 80-90 MB/s, which isn't that far off from a mid-range hard drive like a WD Blue.
/u/stellvia2016
Some data is compared against what is internal to the system. Juggling multiple cards is not recommended. Why not just get a bigger card and move the data to it? 64 GB cards on Amazon are under $20 last I checked.
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-microSDXC-Standard-Packaging-SDSQUNC-064G-GN6MA/dp/B010Q588D4
Just over $20 right now.
I got this SanDisk 64GB microSD card on sale for
$14$15 on Amazon. Sure, the read-speeds only go up to 80 MB/s, but usually the games that would really benefit from higher read-speeds are also released physically, and I'm buying physically when I can so I get the 20% Prime discount.Edit: According to CamelCamelCamel, the lowest that SD card has ever been on Amazon is $15, so I guess I bought it for $15, not $14.
Good thing a quality 64GB micro SDXC card is only about $16
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-microSDXC-Standard-Packaging-SDSQUNC-064G-GN6MA/dp/B010Q588D4
This is my favorite set up to give friends. Looks good and mostly foolproof hardware wise!
Raspberry Pi 3 Model B
Rasptendo SNES Case (IMO, connect the power button as intended, but either solder the reset button as per the method mentioned in there or don't connect it at all. This way there's no way for the user to do a non-safe shutdown of the OS)
Dual fan heatsink
Bluetooth adapter (more reliable than built-in bluetooth, change /boot/config.txt to disable onboard Bluetooth)
PS3 SIXAXIS Controller (Dualshock 3's work too, but I like the legit OEM ones, and those are hard to find. The convincing bootlegs/fakes are usually impossible to tell apart from legit ones when ordering online. That's why I look for used SIXAXIS controllers - no bootlegs. Also, I use PS3 controllers because pairing can be done or re-done entirely by connecting up mini-USB cables. No menus necessary once you set it up the first time!)
Sandisk 64GB MicroSD
Canakit PSU
HDMI cable, Mini-USB cable.
-----
For a more serious, less user-friendly but more overclockable setup, ditch the case/heatsink above and go with these instead:
Some kind of heatsink, I'm using one from the Kintaro case but I suspect the cheap stick-on heatsinks are probably fine too
this open-air case (throw out the fan as it's way too loud... I'm sure other open-air cases will work but I like that this one has the 40mm setup for the below fan and the little grille to prevent curious fingers from getting in there at least)
this Noctua 40mm 5v fan (expensive, but quiet and provides solid cooling)
I see physical media for games as changing again. For those games that can be run natively, I think SD cards will become more prominent. A regular blu ray disc can hold 25GB of data. A dual-layer blu ray can hold 50GB. We already have SD cards that can hold 64GB. The only reason DVDs and blu ray discs are still used for physical format is because they are much cheaper to produce at scale.
But having "locked in" physical media will (theoretically) place limits on piracy. More likely, I can see physical releases being more of a collector's item sort of thing. You are essentially paying for the box itself and not for the game. Since the media itself is scarce, it has more value than the data it contains. Not unlike the modern board game market really.
$35 is just for the Pi 3 itself. You can find Pi cases pretty cheap, like $7-$10. From there it's the HDMI cable (which you probably already have laying around), MicroSD card, and power supply.
It's powered over USB to outlet wart plug. 2.5a is recommended, but you can probably get away with 2.0a or 2.1a, which is more common. Or buy a full standalone power plug for it. Assuming you don't have a microSD card, 32GB is only ~$10 these days, and you can get a 64GB one for about double that.
So total cost might be around $50-75 depending on accessories and what you already have at hand versus what you need to buy. Still quite cheap for a retro emulation rig (and can always be repurposed as something cool like a firewall or mini-PC or something, since there are Linux builds for the Pi as well).
Go to Settings -> Data Management -> 3DS -> Save-Data Backup
See if Monster Hunter 4U will allow you to backup your data. Most games will. I have a physical copy, so I can't check myself. If it does allow it, then do that before you delete the game.
That said, SD cards can be gotten quite cheaply. You could get a 64gb microsd for under $20 on Amazon right now.
Since that's over 32GB, you'd need to format it to FAT32 on your computer before using it in a 3DS, though. Or grab a 32GB for $10 I guess, but the 64GB is really the better deal.
So I've tried an older smaller SD card I had laying around. So far it hasn't happened with this card. What card are you using? I figure since we both have the same issue we can share some ideas and maybe figure this thing out. The card I was using is this one. Also reading the reviews it seems lots of people complaining about the card randomly unmounting itself.
SanDisk Ultra 64GB microSDXC UHS-I Card with Adapter, Grey/Red, Standard Packaging (SDSQUNC-064G-GN6MA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010Q588D4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Wbxhzb9EFQ0VP
this one has better speeds and is the same price
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-microSDHC-Standard-Packaging-SDSQUNC-032G-GN6MA/dp/B010Q588D4?th=1
if you get any samsung or sundisk SD card it will be good also look for ones that have higher read and write speeds theses ones are good
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Select-Memory-MB-ME32DA-AM/dp/B01DOB6YW4/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487600898&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=micro%2Bsd%2Bcard&amp;th=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010Q588D4/ref=twister_B011BRUOMO?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Just a reminder that this 64gb is still only $15.99 for you budget minded people.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010Q588D4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YbZRybK4W863F
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-microSDXC-Standard-Packaging-SDSQUNC-064G-GN6MA/dp/B010Q588D4/
brand new on sale at amazon for 15.99 + taxes
Thank you guys! Y'all answered my question within seconds!! One more question, I'm looking at these two cards and I want to see which you'd recommend and if there are any differences between the two.
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Memory-Adapter-MB-MC64DA-AM/dp/B01273JZMG/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487695849&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=micro+sd+samsung+64gb
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010Q588D4/ref=psdcmw_3015433011_t1_B01G26R7M4
I just started using the SanDisk Ultra 80MB/s. 64gb for $22 felt like a great deal
http://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-microSDXC-Standard-Packaging-SDSQUNC-064G-GN6MA/dp/B010Q588D4/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1457469993&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=SanDisk+Ultra+64GB+microSDXC+UHS-I+Card
These are the two top listings on Amazon:
https://smile.amazon.com/Samsung-MicroSD-Adapter-MB-ME32GA-AM/dp/B06XX29S9Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499378937&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=micro%2Bsd&amp;th=1
https://smile.amazon.com/SanDisk-microSDXC-Standard-Packaging-SDSQUNC-064G-GN6MA/dp/B010Q588D4/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499378937&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=micro+sd
Memory card sale, if you need an upgrade.
https://smile.amazon.com/SanDisk-microSDXC-Standard-Packaging-SDSQUNC-064G-GN6MA/dp/B010Q588D4/
Thinking of a Fire tablet for a viewscreen, anybody have experience?
Well, that depends. Are you willing to pay for the convenience of getting everything you need at once? Then sure it is. If not, then the price seems kinds high to me. $40 for this PI kit, $7 for this HDMI cable, $9 for this controller, and $15 for this 64GB SD card gets you in at $71 + shipping. $80 + shipping with a second controller.
It must be on the SD card. The web browser (the only currently known primary entry point) doesn't have access to read from the USB ports at all, so there's no alternatives for it.
Personally, I'd recommend at least a 64GB card, this one from amazon is $20, and big enough to be able to run a rednand from.
Like /u/Draiko said, pretty much UHS-1 or above will be fine.
I use this one.
I've noticed no problems whatsoever. I put all my music, backups, and all the apps I can on there. I've had no issue running any of those apps. (Compared to the crappy SD card I got for free with my G4 last year, which froze on read only mode for no reason)
They also have 64GB on sale for $17.99 if you are more strapped for cash
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010Q588D4/ref=ya_st_dp_summary?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010Q588D4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 I use this card, no issues so far.
I am using this one http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010Q588D4?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00 but I feel it is really slow. Spotify was all stuttery and laggy and Facebook forced closed because it took too much to load
However, Hearthstone works fine. Also I don't have problems recording 4k video.
If your monitor has only VGA (DSUB) input:
---
for the PS3: an HDMI to VGA adapter.
for the N64: Composite to VGA converter
for the SNES: The above converter plus a component cable like this if you don't already have one.
-------------
If your monitor has only DVI input:
----
for the PS3: An HDMI to DVI cable (or adapter).
for the N64: the above cable/adapter plus component to HDMI converter
for the SNES: both of the above plus a component cable like this if you don't already have one.
Use something like this
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-HDMI-DVI-Adapter-Cable/dp/B014I8UQJY?th=1&amp;psc=1
Do you have DVI? Can get a DVI to HDMI adapter for your monitor.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Input-Output-Adapter-Cable/dp/B014I8UQJY
Use a HDMI cable to connect the GPU to the monitor, or use a cable/adapter like this and connect to DVI on the GPU and HDMI on the monitor.
HDMI to DVI will always be just a single DVI-Link as HDMI doesn't have enough pins to carry the data from DVI dual-link.
If you plan to adapt DVI to HDMI (or vice versa) I'd always recommend a complete cable instead of a short adapter. It puts less strain on the used ports and isn't really more expensive. They should work both ways as it's a passive adaption (just connecting pins).
Acer V226HQL Full HD monitor over AmazonBasics HDMI-DVI Converter working perfectly. Can select all resolutions just fine.
The 570 has only hdmi and displayports so you have to use a converter like this one : https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Input-Output-Adapter-Cable/dp/B014I8UQJY/ref=pd_sim_147_7?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B014I8UQJY&amp;pd_rd_r=2M0NM234VJSM7X7MCSJ7&amp;pd_rd_w=IkChP&amp;pd_rd_wg=KD9U6&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=2M0NM234VJSM7X7MCSJ7
DVI and HDMI are electrically compatible - you need an adapter or a cable. Neither is very rare.
Not much...
This for DVI port on your PC to you HDMI Port on old TV.
AmazonBasics CL2 Rated HDMI Input to VGA DVI Output Adapter Cable - 6 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8UQJY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6YS7CbGJPWQVJ
Or this to use a display port on your PC to an HDMI port that you can then use your spare HDMI cable to connect to your TV.
BENFEI DisplayPort to HDMI Adapter, Benfei DP Display Port to HDMI Converter Male to Female Gold-Plated Cord Compatible for Lenovo Dell HP and Other Brand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017Q8ZVWK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_H0S7CbBPD8K7P
The terms male and female relate to which side of the plug you are referring to. Males plug into females (reproductive biology). So the port that end plugs into is female, and the side of the cable that plugs into the port is the male end.
Three questions:
HDMI->DVI as /u/PWMeany said. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B014I8UQJY/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_UShvCb38ZJ761
it uses multi-stream feature of displayport, a RX 550 might be a idea with a DP>HDMI adapter and DVI>HDMI cable
if your only using it for desktop work the rx 550 is way newer than 5450 and GT 710 and will do 4K HEVC/AVC video decoding and encoding etc so perfect for media
https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Radeon-Graphic-Cards-GV-RX550D5-2GD/dp/B06Y43NJ3D/ ($89)
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0C7QO8 ($20)
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Input-Output-Adapter-Cable/dp/B014I8UQJY ($6)
The only one that's really officially supported is this one
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZIPYPY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cheap and works with some 10' extension cables including this one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This gives you 20 feet. Done deal
These are the exact cables I used to extend both my rifts. Both are lossless quality; no noise, snow, nothing.
USB Extension
HDM Extension
Also in case you are interested, these are the cables I used to extend my sensor cables. Entire system works flawlessly. Some people have had to plug one or two of the sensors into a USB2.0 slot instead of 3.0 to get perfect tracked. I just split the 3.0's up between several different card. A good rule of thumb is two inputs per card. So i used the MOBO slots, the top panel slots, and my PCI-E USB slots to ensure each component was receiving sufficient power.
Hope this helps. Best of luck and enjoy (:
I have a 980 as well. I've been using these 10 ft cables for a few months now and not had any problems:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
uhhhh... at this price range:
mouse & keyboard
monitor
so we got £240 for a monitor, keyboard and mouse. I can work very well with this. I will give you a few options. Going from low end of the budget to the higher end. You have all kinds of options.
But first! Peripherals are all very hard to suggest, if we don't have enough information. So I picked the ones that I find will work in most cases.
But there are a lot of things we need to know before we can suggest the right setup. But anyway, here is the list. No I won't explain to much why I picked them. I did went for these because I think they will work for "most" people. But if you got the time to answer the questions, I will have a better idea if my suggestion will work for you.
1:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
Monitor | Dell P2214H 60Hz 21.5" Monitor | £78.00 @ Amazon UK
Other| SteelSeries QcK Mass Mousepad| £14.00
Other| CoolerMaster Storm Devastor Gaming bundle (blue LEDs)| £30.00
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | £122.00
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-08-10 22:08 BST+0100 |
2:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
Monitor | Dell P2214H 60Hz 21.5" Monitor | £78.00 @ Amazon UK
Keyboard | Cooler Master CM Storm Quick Fire TK Wired Gaming Keyboard | £69.99 @ Ebuyer
Other| SteelSeries QcK Mass Mousepad| £14.00
Other| Logitech G400s| £29.00
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | £190.99
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-08-10 22:10 BST+0100 |
3:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
Monitor | Dell U2414H 60Hz 23.8" Monitor | £167.94 @ Aria PC
Keyboard | Cooler Master CM Storm Quick Fire TK Wired Gaming Keyboard | £69.99 @ Ebuyer
Other| SteelSeries QcK Mass Mousepad| £14.00
Other| Logitech G400s| £29.00
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | £280.93
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-08-10 22:14 BST+0100 |
I just got negative feedback from other users for suggestion the Dell P2214H in a £1400 setup. But I highly doubt that ANY of those guys did any research about this monitor. I got the P2314H myself and it's an outstanding monitor. Here is a short review about the monitor and my god it's so awesome. The stand alone is such a winner for me.
The 8ms response time is not noticeable at all when playing games, not even in shooters. No motion blur was seen on my side. Of course I sadly can not really say this about the P2214H, but it's the same series so I assume that they are pretty simulair.
For the mouse/keyboard I would love to get the above questions answered before I tell you why I went with these products. I do know that in my keyboard part I only talk about mechanical. So if you think you don't like that, well then we have to go membrame. But do give me feedback about tenkeyless and macro keys. Thanks!
CM Storm Devastator
is pretty good from my uses. Cheap and efficient.
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Devastator-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B00DKXXAAQ
I had this keyboard when i first started pc gaming and it was great for me, comes with a mouse too. Not flat keys though.
This is amazing. I was going to update it to include that the 700 was without the monitor so this works out. I just have a few questions about the build:
I'm not sure what the big differences are or if there are any. I think that the HP aesthetically looks nicer
EDIT: Aesthetically
You could get the coolermaster cm storm devastator gaming bundle, $50 for mouse and keyboard but you can probably find it cheaper somewhere. http://www.amazon.com/CM-Storm-Devastator-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B00DKXXAAQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1397268264&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Cooler+master+cm+storm+bundle
I was planning on spending $220 for mech keyboard and nice mouse when building but ended up buying the Cooler Master Storm Devastator keyboard/mouse set for $30.
The money I saved there allowed me to not cut corners on anything else while giving me ample time to consider if I really needed a top end keyboard while playing just fine with this one.
They come in red or blue LED and I bought mine from Amazon on sale for $30 but it's now $40 there. This link has it for $28.62 and I think you'd be hard pressed to find a better bang for buck. I'm no pro but it works just fine for me.
http://www.ncixus.com/products/?usaffiliateid=1000031504&amp;sku=85648&amp;vpn=SGB-3010-KKMF1-US&amp;manufacture=COOLERMASTER
Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DKXXAAQ/?tag=pcpapi-20
The CM Storm Devastator is a mouse/keyboard combo, backlit, and on sale now for under $30.
I have this keyboard/mouse combo: http://www.amazon.com/CM-Storm-Devastator-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B00DKXXAAQ/
The keyboard is nice. can also come in green or red if you want. the mouse died on me once, but I opened it up to look for any faults, didnt see anything wrong, closed it, and it has been magically working since.
You don't necessarily have to upgrade the motherboard. socket 775 processors are dirt cheap now: http://www.amazon.com/Intel-E8400-3-0GHz-Processor-EU80570PJ0806M/dp/B0019NKGR4/
But then again it looks like you'll have to stick with it for a few years cause I dont remember anything at all from when I was 3. I know I got a gameboy color for my 4th birthday bundled with pokemon yellow. The party was at mcdonalds too. fun times
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Devastator-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B00DKXXAAQ
Cooler master devastator. The keyboard is the best membrane keyboard I've used, and the mouse is relatively decent too.
Okay, here are two budget keyboard + mouse combos that probably exceed standard consumer hardware in performance even if they are a little dodgy compared to better brands:
http://www.amazon.com/CM-Storm-Devastator-Keyboard-Edition/dp/B00DKXXAAQ
http://www.amazon.com/eSPORTS-COMMANDER-Ilumination-Keyboard-KB-CMC-PLBLUS-01/dp/B00VEU6LYE
They each cost around $30 which is $10-20 less than the cost of a controller (yes I'm aware that you don't need a 2nd one but seriously, who owns a console and doesn't have at least 2 controllers?)
Looking at a gaming mouse. I bought the CM Storm Devastator keyboard & mouse set a while ago. I'm wondering how much better is something like a Logitech G502?
I know the G502 is one of the best (if not the best) on the market, but I'm just wondering how much better it is than what I have and is it worth spending $70 on it when I already have a mouse.
If you need a mouse as well, the CM Storm Devastator combo on amazon is pretty good for the price.
Link
Keyboard
nice, would you like to answer some more questions?
i have a keyboard and mouse right now but would this be a good budget combo? im going for a black and blue vibe for my build
.05 cents under m9 :D
http://www.amazon.com/CM-Storm-Devastator-Keyboard-Edition/dp/B00DKXXAAQ
congrats on the setup completion! The curvature on that mouse is sexyyy. good luck streaming!
I would be interested in the Xsplit license! I believe mine is set to expire some time this year, a little extra extension would be nice. :)
My current keyboard/mouse setup is the Cooler Master Devastator combo pack, blue. I got it when i built my PC last year and had a budget to stick to, so just got a combo. It definitely works fine and the lights are cool! blue is my favorite color too. im content with it, but of course could always be better.
I would definitely love to eventually upgrade. I have my eyes set on the Razer BlackWidow Chroma Stealth Silent RGB keyboard and the Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum mouse. so expensive. eventually, eventually. T___T
Oh. Sorry mate. It's really not feasible to get a decent gaming rig for less, so this is gonna be a bit over budget. For the monitor, I'd go with this one: http://www.amazon.com/BenQ-GW2255-21-5-Inch-LED-lit-Monitor/dp/B00AX9Z6MU
For the keyboard/mouse, you can't beat this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DKXXAAQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1451177590&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;keywords=Cooler+master+Devastator&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41rw%2BHIOJoL&amp;ref=plSrch
comes with the cooler master devastator combo mouse and keyboard pack. http://www.amazon.com/CM-Storm-Devastator-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B00DKXXAAQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452916583&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=cooler+master+devastator
If you're on a budget like I was, Coolermaster peripherals are amazing. I recently upgraded from a really sketchy $20 chinese kb/m set to the $30 CM Storm Devastator kb/m combo, it's fantastic. I love how the keys are raised, almost like a mechanical style. And the backlighting on such an inexpensive set is impressive. I could never really justify myself spending hundreds of dollars on peripherals so I definitely appreciate CM's offering.
How is this a deal when you can get a better product cheaper on Amazon for regular price from a reputable company (iRocks vs Cooler Master)?
www.amazon.com/CM-Storm-Devastator-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B00DKXXAAQ/
try this one
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DKXXAAQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1396644738&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SX200_QL40
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005BZNDS0/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?qid=1396644767&amp;sr=8-11&amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
Model number this
Slightly over your budget (why only $20?) but I use this coolmaster keyboard that I paid $29.16 for (after tax) back in 2016. Some family members liked it so much they bought their own as well.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DKXXAAQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1419376619&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX200_QL40
If you meant the 30 dollar combo and not the one I'm using
I found a similar keyboard on Amazon made by HP and I used that to base measurements off of. I do not know what you use your computer for but unfortunately most backlit keyboards are geared to gamers. I've never used any of these keyboards but they are from respected manufactures. If I were you I'd read through a couple reviews on each to get a better understanding of what to expect from the keyboard.
Cooler Master Storm Devastator w/ mouse $29.99
This one is .2" longer, .4" narrower, .4" taller than your current keyboard
Corsair Raptor k30 $39.99
This one is .9" longer, .9" wider, .4" taller.
If you were to up your budget $10.
SteelSeries Apex Raw $49.99
2.97" longer, 2.5" wider, 1.05" taller.
I have used this one and I can say that I didn't care for the keys but I do use a mechanical board so take that with a grain of salt.
If you were to up your budget $25-30. (At this point it might be better to start looking at low end mechanicals.)
Corsair Raptor k40 $59.99
1.8" longer, 2.5" wider, .8" taller
Logitech Illuminated Ultrathin $59.99
I don't think the dimensions for this one are right because Amazon says it's 3 inches tall but it's sold as an ultrathin keyboard?
Microsoft SideWinder x4 $68.80
2.1" longer, 2.4" wider, 1.4" taller
Good old Amazon Basic's 4 port powered USB w/ an Apple USB-C to USB adapter.
https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484871884&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=amazon+basic+4+port+usb+hub
One I had from before using a Surface Pro Hackintosh, works great for the Oculus with 3 sensors. All the USB goes into that Rift, and 3 sensors. Long as I keep the 3rd sensor on USB2.0 using the monoprice cable I get no tracking issues related to sensor hookups.
Yeah I love the setup, I had a 2015 Macbook Pro which ran great for work / OSX needs. It made sense to dump the gaming laptop Razer and consolidate the Macbook and Razer into the new one. eGPU made that possible, TB3 rocks speed wise the hit isn't terrible long as you use an external monitor. Works great here.
Good thing because the one the other poster suggested wouldn't have worked for a Surface Pro device - that one is specific to the Surface 3 (non-Pro).
As far as USB hubs go, the problem with wanting to run an external drive via a USB hub is that the hub itself typically has to be powered, reducing its portability. It might be easier for you to use a Bluetooth-enabled mouse like Logitech MX Anywhere or Surface Arc Mouse or Razer Artheris - basically any wireless mouse that doesn't depend on a dongle to work.
If portability doesn't matter to you, then maybe AmazonBasics 4 Port Hub would work. It's cheap, powered and has tons of positive reviews.
With a direct connection via on-the-go cable (USB Audio Player Pro) says a device is attached but that the phone can't drive enough power through the port. According to the JDS Labs (blog) the solution is to use a powered hub. I've tried two different powered hubs including a brand new (Amazon Basics) with a 2.5 Amp power supply, which should be more than enough, but still get no audio from the amp.
I've also tried using (SoundAbout) to force Google Play Music to route through the USB DAC. Doesn't work in host or client mode. Anyone have this working and if so what hardware did you use to bridge from the Nexus 6 to your amp?
I have the Amazon Basics powered USB 3 hub, works great, not expensive
https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1466277884&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=amazon+basics+usb+3+hub
Best Buy, Fry's, Microcenter, Walmart would all sell powered USB hubs. I use a few of these around my house. Cheap, effective, safe.
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464915641&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=amazonbasics+usb+hub
Cant you just add a USB hub to the back? Something like this. That is likely the cheapest option.
I just use an amazon basics one which works fine https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80/
Describe a bit more about the unit you want. Is it supposed to be a PC of its own? In that case one would get an ITX case that fits three 5.25" drives, like https://www.amazon.com/iStarUSA-S-35-Compact-5-25-Inch-mini-ITX/dp/B00DJ7T3YK. If you want something that connects to other PCs I'd glue three external drives together and just use USB. And yes, connecting those to an USB hub is a good idea (maybe an USB 3.1 Gen 2 hub to avoid any bandwidth issues).
If you have to use the internal drives without a PC of their own I'd get three of https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ + a powered USB 3.0 hub like https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-USB-Power-Adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80/.
But I haven't build something like that yet. When I still used optical disk writers there was always the issue of having to keep the system calm to not produce write errors. I'm not 100% certain having three connected to a hub won't be without issues - but it's not too expensive to try out.
you may or may not need a powered usb hub depending on the type and number of things you want to use
USB devices like a headset or a controller use power from the device they are connected to. As for a USB hub there are two types: Those getting power from PS4/PC and those having a small separate power supply.
The important part is that power is limited on a USB hub without power supply to what you get from one USB port of the PS4. It might not be enough for headset plus controller and thus one of them might not work.
With power supply multiple (or even all) connected devices can use the maximum power allowed for USB.
An example for a USB3 hub with power supply/AC adapter is this one:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80
If I were looking for one that's what I would get for my PS4.
AmazonBasics 4 Port USB to USB 3.0 Hub with 5V/2.5A power adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zgE4CbC4ERKGD
Plug your hub into port 1 on PS4. Plug ext. hard drive into port 2 on PS4. Anything else goes into the hub (charging cables, headset usb, etc..)
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80
Is this good to buy? And can I still use the usb cables the PS Classic gave us to connect it to the hub?
Buy a 4 port KVM like this one, attach a 4 port USB hub to the input, and then attach your 3 USB devices to the hub. You might need to buy a powered hub instead.
Also, you'll need either a USB 3.0 Y cable https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dual-USB-3-0-A-Male-to-Micro-B-Male-Male-Power-Supply-Y-Cable-for-Hard-Drive-HDD/232730072231 or a powered USB 3.0 hub https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80 for devices like portable external hard drives.
Looks like it doesn't actually come with the adapter, which is not uncommon. This one would be better as it does come with the wall-wart supply.
While true in theory, for my own use it doesn't apply because I don't need it for anything other than this specific usage. On top of that, I like things to be neat, and hiding the USB hub wouldn't work too well in my setup, much less having the extra power plug/wire to deal with.
It's just a small annoyance and I'll probably end up getting it anyway, but I've definitely been finding it to be one of the few gripes I have with the PS4 (#1 being no support for the official Bluetooth headset from PS3, despite the wireless chip in the PS4 having the ability to function exactly the same as its predecessor).
I use this for mics and works great
USB HUB
While I don't have specific experience with that writer, generally if an external device has 2 usb ports (like usb cd drives or usb external hard drives) 1 is for data and 1 is for power. You should be fine using something like a powered usb hub.
Probably closer to 10 to 15 bucks for a powered usb hub. A non powered hub powers itself and all attached devices using the power from the USB port on the PC. A powered hub has a dedicated power input and provides its own power for itself and all attached devices.
An Xbox 360 wired controller looks to be listed as around .48A, and a standard USB2 port is usually rated for .5A total draw. USB 3 I believe is .9A, so an non powered hub may not get you four working controllers.
Something like this should be a safe choice for you:
AmazonBasics 4 Port USB 3.0 Hub with 5V/2.5A power adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_BK1nybA3V46AS
3x 4-way USB hubs, powered.
Edit: Actually, there is a 10 port model. I would just use that, and the 5 or 6 others on my case/motherboard would suffice.
Lots of good suggestions here. Just make sure you also get him a powered USB hub. It can't handle having more than two devices hooked up to it. I bought this one:Amazon Basics USB 3.0 Powered USB Hub It works great, and it gives the ability to hook quite a few more devices to the B+ model.
I was nervous reading about issues with extending the cables of my O+ that I had just got since my pc is behind a wall in another room. I got mine to work first try by going:
PC 3.0 USB <- Male- USB 3.0 10 Feet -Female-> <- Male USB Powered Hub Female-> <-O+ USB
GPU HDMI <- Male HDMI 2.0 10 Feet Male -><-Female HDMI Coupler Female -><-O+ HDMI
&#x200B;
I got the usb 3.0 Male/Female cable from a local store. The rest from amazon. The usb hub is plugged in with 5V power supply and the extension cord HAD to be plugged into the hardwired male cable on the hub. It does not work by plugging the extension and odyssey into the 4 hub slots.
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00GG57JO8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01GDZHOI6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00DQFGH80/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Depending on the cost of a fourth, the best option could be to buy a powered USB hub as you mention. This one seems like it could be decent. The only inconvenience is that you need access to a power supply and it is a laptop (meant to be portable). I suppose with equipment etc. this wouldn't be a huge problem though. I use a similar hub (forget the name, I can check for you later if you're interested) and it works fine; they are very much plug-and-play items.
You need a USB HUB.
Amazon have their own brand that is very well built.
There are many cheaper alternatives but you run the risk of not meeting electronic safety regulations which could result in:
A) A house fire.
B) Fried USB ports.
Link to the hub
Source: USB Hub owner
no... that is a good thing (i have one), and it will charge multiple devices, but OP wanted it to be able to sync them all to his computer too. a simple powered usb hub like this would do it:
http://amzn.com/B00DQFGH80
note that it has both a power adapter and an "upstream" usb connecting it to the pc. if you have only usb, it probably won't charge all devices full speed. if you have only power, it obviously won't connect the devices to the computer.
Sabrent 4-Port USB 3.0 Hub with Individual Power Switches and LEDs (HB-UM43) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FnLGAb9PV01VV
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=/ref=as_li_ss_tl?&amp;ascsub&amp;m=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Just slap on of these on the back and you get 3 more USB ports
Sabrent 4-Port USB 3.0 Hub with Individual Power Switches and LEDs (HB-UM43) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JQ.iDbRFJG58E
I use 2 of those.
How would you vocalise the difference between this and this? Would you say the latter is a hub with the capabilities with a switch?
Edit: The second item calls itself a "Switcher Box Hub" to state the difference.
Wow okay, so the problem is this USB port extender.
If my headset cable is connected to that and I plug it into my PC, I get the massive stuttering seen above UNTIL I turn off my PC. I'm going to try to see if anything plugged in there wrecks my PC, or if it is just the headset cable.
One is a usb 3 and the other is usb 2 (for compatibility issues)
Sabrent 4-Port USB 3.0 Hub with Individual LED Power Switches (HB-UM43) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eF2IDbXEHVYW8
There are USB hubs with switches to deactivate the specific port assigned to it. Dirt cheap but should help you.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UM43/dp/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=usb+hub+with+switch&amp;qid=1568980604&amp;sr=8-3
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_M8e7Bb8RAAQ3H
This will do the trick. Actually, it's sort of overkill. But it'll work
Ok so I think I'm narrowing some things down. Per /u/Doc_E_Makura I ran CrystalDiskInfo on each drive and they read as good with no abnormalities.
I then ran the Windows disk error check as described and also found no errors (well, the new drive did have errors from the bad files copied over from the previous attempts, but I formatted and it is error free now).
I then opened the MiniTool Partition Wizard and started to try and figure out the method for imaging the drive over. I noticed that it kept every few seconds popping up a dialogue box saying something to the effect of "updating partition drives" (can't remember exact phrase). But it was happening so frequently I got the impression of a bad connection in some sense.
I then opened an explorer window just to see if I could open the drives, and I started getting an error of "Power surge on the USB port. Unknown USB Device needs more power than the port can supply." This error popped up multiple times then the drives disappeared. This surface pro only has one USB port, so I bought this USB adapter which was only $10. Could this be causing the issues? If so, what's the best alternative for a higher quality USB adapter that can power two external HDs?
The USB power surge error disabled the USB port, and the drives wouldn't show up after when plugging them in individually until I restarted.
Thanks so far for the advice, hopefully I can get this figured out.
A splitter isn't what you want. You want a USB Hub. No sense at all getting a USB 2 hub. If you are going to be using heavy duty stuff (multiple hard drives, for instance) or want to charge things at fast charge rate, get a powered hub.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UM43/dp/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?
I use this one, it has switches so I can turn the ones I want on and the others off. I haven’t had any issues. Really good reviews.
I haven't used it but this might help:
https://github.com/meleu/RetroPie-joystick-selection
EDIT
You might be able to hack together a hardware solution with something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J4H8ZCC OR
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UM43/dp/B00JX1ZS5O
Stuff like this happening is the reason I picked up a couple of USB hubs with individual switches. Any time something doesn't work right I can reset it, or turn off other controllers to trouble shoot it nice and easy.
I have the Sabrent 4-Port USB 3.0 Hub with Individual LED Power Switches ($6 on Amazon using code 360OFFUM43) that I discovered from this post over on /r/buildapcsales. I have the two Rift sensors connected to it, but I have my headset connected to my Clevo's HDMI port and one of it's four USB 3.0 ports. When my wheel (T300RS GT), shifter (TH8A), and wireless mouse dongle are connected to the laptop USB ports, that leaves one open port on the hub for my cell phone charging cable, and of course when I'm using the wheel, I don't use the game controller, so I keep that switched off.
My laptop also has a USB type-C USB 3.1/Thunderbolt combo port, and I was going to get a hub that connects via Thunderbolt with 4 USB 3.1 ports @ 10gbps (around $40), but I couldn't pass up on that $6 deal, and it works perfectly fine for all that I use it for.
Regarding the better battery life on the touch controllers - I imagine it would save on battery life if you switch off the sensor ports on the hub when not in use.
I changed to using an external SSD for my PS4, absolute game changer all for under £50,
SSD: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B077SL4FZG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Enclosure: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0765D6NJV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
USB 3.0 Hub (if short on free USB ports): https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Gandim la fel, mi l-am comandat pe asta acum cateva zile, trebuie sa ajunga luni.
Si mai am hubul asta ce-i conectat la priza.
It should make no major difference. Working on things like macro will have more of an overall effect on your play then getting a new mouse will.
That said, I was playing with a crappy Targus bluetooth mouse for a long time and it was inaccurate, would jump, and lose connection during games. I picked up a Logitech G400 and it's been great. And while I did more up the ladder more after getting it, I don't attribute my success to a mouse, but rather improved macro.
A few things to note:
I know none of that is really what you asked for but it's all stuff I wish knew before I bought a laptop for college.
In all honesty if I could go back and give myself a piece of college computer advice it would be to avoid spending too much money on a gaming laptop and to get a netbook instead. Granted, my 2006 MacBook Pro is still working but it wasn't ever the gaming PC I'd hoped it would be.
The portability was nice but the inability to upgrade my computer as tech advanced put me at a disadvantage midway through my college career. After a couple years I started to lag behind the current technical requirements and was unable to play the newer games that I wanted to play. With a laptop you're almost forced to wait it out simply to justify the initial cost. You either replace the laptop completely or tolerate slowly degrading performance to save money. There's no way to spend $200-300 on a new GPU if you need it (or if you just want to upgrade and have the cash to spare).
It also became a bit of a hassle simply because part of me really wanted to treat the laptop as if it were a desktop and leave it on the desk. I had speakers, a mouse, and a USB hub all set up but plugging in and unplugging everything at least a few times a day to move my laptop got to be a pain in the ass over the years. This might not be an issue for you but it definitely bugged me at the time.
In 2012 I'd personally get an inexpensive netbook (you can get one for $200-300) and spend the rest of my budget building a PC (head to /r/buildapc if you want to go that route).
Cases are super subjective, that one will do fine if you like the look of it. It's an ATX case though, so I think you should get an full ATX motherboard. ATX motherboards have more slots, usually cheaper, and may be higher quality but that's a crapshoot. For the motherboard get this MSI one. It's a little more expensive than the one you have but that's because the one you had a cheaper business chipset. The different in features between the B85 you had and the H87
I'm recommending out is better SATA and USB3 support. Also better power distribution for your CPU the benefits of which isn't super important.
If you were to get a SSD, you would install windows on it and a few games. All of the other stuff will go to your harddrive. There's a SSD optimization guide on the sidebar, it was written for Windows 7 but it should be pretty much the same for 8. If you do end up getting one this Sandisk Extreme is pretty good. You can also look at Samsung's 840 series they're good as well.
Wireless depends on several things, whether you could snake a cable through the house, what kind of router you have (802.11n or above?), and what kind of games you'll be playing (get wired for twitch shooters or MOBA's). The GTX770 is actually a pretty significant improvement over the GTX760, look at benchmarks and determine if you think it's worth it for the games you play. The main thing to look for is that whether it pushes the FPS to over 60.
As for the keyboard. There's mechanical and nonmechanical keyboards. Mechanical keyboards are the clicky type that old IBM keyboards (I dont' know how old you are) were. They feel more solid and are loved by games for their responsiveness. I have a Corsair Vengeance k70 that I love. It's expensive though, there's also the cooler master one. This is a whole another can of worms, there's also different switch types. /r/MechanicalKeyboards can help you there. For the mouse I can safely recommend the Logitech G400 but for MMO's you might want more keys so there's always the G600 by logitech or the Razer Naga. I'm personally not a big fan of Razer's stuff I think they're way too flashy and apparently their build quality has gone down over the years as well. You'll have to do some research on your own there.
Anniversary story -- it's happening right now :) My husband has never been awesome at gifts, and he's always felt really bad about it. Sometimes he just wouldn't get me anything at all, or say he would later and then never do it... anyway, he overheard me talking to some friends about how it kind of makes me sad, and he's been stepping up since the first of this month. Our anniversary is on the 14th, and i've been getting little gifts every day with a number countdown on each one :)
For a year or so after college, between work at an MSP and coming home to an empty apartment and a very enthusiastic WoW habit, I was spending 17 hours a day in front of a computer. I started experiencing wrist pain that was so bad I couldn't drive my car anymore. I switched to a more ergonomic keyboard/mouse setup and my wrist pain disappeared within a few of weeks.
I've long since left the MSP and WoW, but I've kept the keyboard and mouse, and recommended the same pair to many coworkers.
Microsoft Natural 4000 Ergonomic Keyboard
Logitech G400 Mouse
I also make liberal use of Allsop Metal Art Monitor Risers and clamp-on monitor arms - in my opinion, monitor position is just as important as proper keyboard and mouse ergonomics because it affects back, shoulders, neck, and eye strain too.
EDIT:
In the past, I've had clients and management balk at the price tags on ergonomic hardware. They'll argue something like "I can go to Wal-Mart and buy a new mouse for fifteen dollars. Why should I spend four times that much on a video gaming mouse?" because they don't understand the value that ergonomic hardware actually provides in a workplace.
Mine lasted many years too but eventually failed. The G400 is the spiritual successor and is the one I bought. I have tried many other mice and prefer that style. I would definitely recommend
There is also the G400S which I think just looks different but I didn't research it. There is the G500 but I owned this one for awhile and did not like the texture on it.
There are other brands but I'm a huge fan of this style so while I've tried others, I always come back
Good choice going with the unlocked i5-4670. I went with the locked one and have been regretting it.
For mouse I have a logitech g400 (http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Optical-Gaming-High-Precision-910-002277/dp/B0055QZ216) and I love it. It seems to have a good reputation within the gaming community.
The keyboard I went with is an "i-rocks". It looks nice and works well enough as a keyboard, a little small though.
I wouldn't necessarily recommend the keyboard (though I don't regret it), but I would recommend the mouse.
Everything looks good to me except possibles the heat spreaders of the ram getting in the way of the fan and CPU heat sink im not quite sure how possible this would be. However for the mouse I would recommend the g400 http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Optical-Gaming-High-Precision-910-002277/dp/B0055QZ216 great for the price with high dpi and very comfortable
I have the Logitech G400 and I love it. It has a nice set of customizable buttons and decent DPI range. I also have to say it's the most comfortable mouse I've ever had. Seems to be decent for most mouse grips as well, or at least for me anyway.
http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Optical-Gaming-High-Precision-910-002277/dp/B0055QZ216/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1348202678&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=logitech+g400
Logitech G400, great mouse, great price
Refurb; the Amazon & Bestbuy offerings are new.
I love my Plantronics GameCom 780.
If you don't mind me asking, how rough are you with your headsets? Because I still have my Gold Wireless headset (been almost a year now) and despite one of the hinges popping (my fault, I knocked them off the table, fixed with some duct-tape and zip-ties and has been fine since) they have been great to me. I haven't noticed any deterioration or build failure and I'm not exactly kind to them.
edit: To actually answer your question, I've used the following headsets on my PS4 with no issues:
http://www.amazon.com/Plantronics-GameCom-780-Headset-Surround/dp/B00B1KJK22 (works in stereo only)
http://www.amazon.com/AudioMX-Headset-Surround-Over-Ear-Headphones/dp/B01C81OQEY
There really isn't a specific "best" headset for you. In the end it all comes down to personal preference on comfort, sound, etc. But that all comes with having multiple headsets of different brands.
I've been through a decent amount and currently have the GameCom 780. I've had it for a good while and have been enjoying it with very little quips about it.
Based on the research I have done I would say that there are 3 top contenders:
Plantronics GameCom 780
SteelSeries Siberia V2 Full-Size
HyperX Cloud
There are a lot of people that would be unhappy to see that list without at least honorable mention to the Corsair Vengeance 1500 and the Logitech G430 so there is plenty to choose from
http://pcpartpicker.com/part/cooler-master-keyboard-sgk4000gkcl1us
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B1KJK22/ref=asc_df_B00B1KJK223293674?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;tag=pg-523-94-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;creative=395097&amp;creativeASIN=B00B1KJK22
IMO, if you have the chance try to find some to try out. See if you like surround over stereo.
For reference, right now I have a set of Plantronics 780s and AT M50Xs. The Plantronics have virtual surround which some people seem to really like but I think it's gimmicky. It sounds good during the action, but then sounds terrible during cut-scenes. Most of the time I just leave it off. Then as far as stereo sound goes my M50s sound so much better overall, but a little light on the bass for action games.
If you want an all in one solution, the 780s are excellent if all you do is game. If you want a stereo set and don't mind not having an attached mic and listen to a lot of music or movies along with gaming then I think the M50s are the better choice. (Note: I own the M50x linked above, which is the exact same as the M50 (no X) but the X's have a detachable cord and come with a coiled cord and both a long and short straight cord...so they're a bit more expensive.
http://www.amazon.com/Plantronics-GameCom-780-Surround-Headset/dp/B00B1KJK22
I've been using the GamesCom 780 for a few years now. I actually bought 3 more sets just to ensure I'll have more if mine breaks (and after 2 years, it still hasn't). The microphone is fantastic, the sound is great, and it's relatively cheap.
Plantronics headsets are pretty good, and this one's on sale for 40 if you're willing to spend that much.
If you're in the market for a gaming headset I only have good things to say about this one
http://www.amazon.com/Plantronics-GameCom-780-Surround-Headset/dp/B00B1KJK22
I have owned it for several months and the sound is crisp and the virtual surround sound is dope.
really good for the price
http://www.amazon.com/Plantronics-GameCom-780-Headset-Surround/dp/B00B1KJK22
Plantronics GameCom 780 They are really nice, unless you stretch the cable too much and snap the head-band. These are basically a much stronger headset compared to the shittier 777 which i would not suggest getting the 777.
EDIT: forgot to say since mine are broken i am now looking to get a Audio Technica 2020 Microphone with Sennheiser HD 518
http://www.amazon.com/Plantronics-GameCom-780-Headset-Surround/dp/B00B1KJK22
This is the headset the guys over at /r/headphones will suggest. It often goes on sale for a out $30.
Personally I recommend getting a solid set of cans and tossing an antlion modmic on the side of them.
Its only $71 on amazon.
I've been using these for almost 3 years and for that price they're fantastic http://www.amazon.com/Plantronics-GameCom-780-Headset-Surround/dp/B00B1KJK22/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1454183184&amp;sr=8-17&amp;keywords=plantronics+headset
Plantronics GameCom 780 Gaming Headset with Surround Sound - USB Compatible with PC
http://www.amazon.com/Plantronics-GameCom-780-Headset-Surround/dp/B00B1KJK22
I love this headset, it's super comfy and the mic registers really well.
I've got glasses and have been comfortable with my Gamescom 780 for the last 4 months.
Platronics gaming headset. It only requires a usb to connect, sounds great and the mic works awesome.
http://www.amazon.com/Plantronics-GameCom-780-Surround-Headset/dp/B00B1KJK22/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1381515537&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=plantronics+gaming+headset
well then glad I copied the post before I deleted it, here it is:
http://imgur.com/eGoM2TW
well shit...i've copied since then
ok then right now i've got the Plantronics Gamescom 307. It's lasted me a year, much longer than any other headset. I am about to invest in the Plantronics Gamescom 780. I have several friends who have got the 780 and they all love it, they say the sound is great, they sound great, they say it's sturdy as hell and it definitely looks sturdy as hell. It's cheapest through Amazon and Walmarts website, I'll link it at the end of this post.
I gave up on Turtle Beach headsets because they seemed to break so easily with me. I had one earpiece randomly break off of the headband while the headset was on my head, I was just sitting at my PC! Not worth the money in my opinion/experience.
http://www.amazon.com/Plantronics-GameCom-780-Surround-Headset/dp/B00B1KJK22/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1369710514&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=gamescom+780
Here's my suggestion, the Plantronics Gamescom 780, It's what I own and I loooove it. It's last me about 2 years now. My previous headset was a Turtle Beach and it last about 6 months.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B1KJK22?redirect=true&amp;ref_=s9_cartx_gw_g147_i1_r
One of the best headsets I have had, if you can find it in your country.
I have these.
I got them mostly because they're over the ear (earbuds hurt after 30 minutes or so) and USB (only one plug). I typically have the game's main audio through the speakers and VoIP through the headset.
i am using an evga gtx 980 with this cable:
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B013ICN940/ref=pe_386171_51767411_TE_dp_1
as a usb extension i use this cable:
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=pe_386171_51767411_TE_dp_2
this combination never dropped out on me or gave me any problems. having a longer cable makes the experience way better.
Because it won't work. You have to have an HDMI repeater, which generally costs $10-15. They also have cable sleeving on them which is about $7-8.
I was looking into making one but for everything you see it's will cost about $35-40 for a 10' extension plus having to deal with sleeving cables. I don't think $20 extra is too bad a deal to have everything assembled and sent to your door. Especially if you hate cable sleeving like me.
You could always just use cable ties and it'd make it about $30 and a little easier, but if you don't like ugly cables the sleeving is the way to go.
For anyone wondering here's my list of items needed to make one (please note I have not personally tested any of these cables. These are recommendations from another user (I think OP)):
COWEEN HDMI Repeater 4K UHD HDMI Female to Female HDMI Amplifier 40' HDMI Extender Up to 40 Meters Lossless Transmission for Oculus Rift and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GHL72XS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Yc2GAbWY6JQX0
Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Vd2GAbJSS05X4
Monoprice Active Select Series High-Speed HDMI Cable 10 Feet with RedMere Technology Supports Ethernet, 3D, 4K and Audio Return - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008D5ETHE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gf2GAbFA4REA2
Techflex PTN0.50BK25 Flexo PET General Purpose 1/2-inch Braided Cable Sleeve, Black - 25 Foot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UHQNUU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Tf2GAbBTGYGTT
These were the ones I found recommended somewhere else that work fine in my setup no problem.
DisplayPort
USB
I just picked received my hdmi and usb 3 extender cables I ordered from amazon. both are 10 ft and I've had no issues with them so far. The two together are heaver than the single cable that Oculus makes, but since thats not the part hanging from my head, it shouldn't be an issue.
These are the cables I use:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_YGxdxbPW3R45Z http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-Extension-Ethernet/dp/B00JJ517VI?ie=UTF8&amp;keywords=2m%20HDMI%20EXTENSION%20Cable%20Male%20to%20Female%20v1.4%203D%20High%20Speed%20With%20Ethernet%20BLACK&amp;qid=1460783173&amp;ref_=sr_1_fkmr3_3&amp;sr=8-3-fkmr3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FT9VW0O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_WTxdxbG2WKX4D http://www.amazon.com/Techflex-Split-Sleeving-Ft-Black/dp/B007VSTFMI?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
Both of these work
http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00DMFB5OK?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00
http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7SA21U?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
I just picked up a Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 pack the other day. This one is different than the Cable Matters cables that you tested. Wasn't terribly expensive either, I only paid $15 for 2 6-ft cables.
While I haven't tried plugging in the headset to the extension, it does work with the sensor just fine. I've been using my Rift since the cables arrived without any issues. I'll probably even use the second cable for the Touch sensor as well.
OK.. so I'm not sure how far you want to go. I got these two items >>
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-Extension-Ethernet/dp/B00JJ517VI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467169650&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Cable+Matters+2-Pack+High+Speed+HDMI+Extension+Cable+with+Ethernet++++++++++++10+Feet+-+3D+and+4K+Resolution+Ready
and
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467169808&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Cable+Matters+SuperSpeed+USB+3.0+++++++++++++Type+A+Male+to+Female+Extension+Cable+in+Black+10+Feet
and that gets me an additional 10 feet, which is cool, and I never have any problems. I DID initially, but I rolled back the USB3 Inateck Windows 10 driver, and it's been really stable since then. Not even one hiccup. Good luck to you. Hope this helps.
For anyone who bought the Lenovo Explorer MVR and need extension cable ideas. I have tested a HDMI and USB 3.0 cable that works.
AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI Extension Cable - 10 Feet https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01D5H91KE?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00C7SA21U?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Man, you have no idea how well it gets rid of that line of sight issue. I can lay prone and shoot! People were getting mad at me in multiplayer for it, lol.
It's super easy and will only cost you $40~ - here's what I used with mine:
The sensor cords are only 8 feet, so chances are you'll need to extend both. Use USB 3.0 for the first 2 sensors, and USB 2.0 if you get a 3rd.
Sorry I missed you earlier, here's what I used to get the tower discretely away in the corner and set up the triple monitor setup:
After that, you can have all peripherals at your fingertips and tuck the tower away into a corner. If your space is carpeted (and even if its not), be sure to keep the tower slightly elevated off the ground to allow for good air circulation.
Definitely not dogma but that's what I've been using, and it works well thus far. Be sure not to skimp on the length of your cords, when your hiding it it will need to snake around a bit under the desk.
Hope that helps!
I am using this HDMI
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GBBSZFE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HIEtzb056BQ0Y
And this usb and it works great https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DJEtzbMCAYRC0
No idea about Amazon.
You may need some USB extensions, depending on how you plan to run stuff, these are known to work:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00DMFFL2W?th=1
I’m using this on my HP headset and it works perfectly. Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_79NRAbYCMJXDN
Thanks man, the only problem with that link is the 1.8m is not available however I found this link
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01LNAAEJ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LK40DbP9NAMR0
Which I will try in combination with this
www.amazon.de/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mN40Db044AD1B
And see how it goes :)
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505231414&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=usb+extension+cable&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_five_browse-bin%3A7800928011
I have been using https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=psdc_464394_t2_B00HSS9KJY with my sensor, and it works flawlessly, i have an extra one as well, so i could try to double extend if you want me to test with that cable.
Edited: oops, wrong cable
> I'm gonna need extensions.
I had good luck with 10 foot for each via Amazon.
--------------------------------------
> Overall, setup was 9/10, but I'm giving it 5/10 because of the issues I had.
Similar here. I can see how it's supposed to be very smooth and quick, and I think re-establishing setup (if I were portable) would be very quick, but I had a number of issues that prolonged things.
--------------------------------------
> This does require you to have a lit room
This was disconcerting for me as well as preventing me from using VR sometimes since my VR area borders the den/living room and the breakfast nook and my wife often vetoed the turning up of all the lights (in the evenings).
--------------------------------------
> Controller tracking 8/10
I'd only give them 6/10. It's highly dependent on tolerance, body type, play style, and which game / experience you're using. My thoughts: https://www.reddit.com/r/WindowsMR/comments/7qlhde/samsung_odyssey_owners_are_you_happy/dsq5nh5/
--------------------------------------
> You will notice some black smear
I started noticing more of it as I dug back through my backlog of games and apps. The Quake II SteamVR environment, Allummette (the night scenes), and the large theater room in BigScreen are three places that had pretty awful black smear that I remember. In other places it was not noticeable though.
--------------------------------------
> Colors are also very vibrant
I agree, I thought the color pop was excellent and fun in the Odyssey, and simply made me want to try a lot of different things to see what they looked like.
--------------------------------------
> I think it's a tad bigger at least for me
Interesting, my buddy and I both thought his Vive with DAS and 6mm pad had the slight edge in terms of FOV, as well as amount of pupil swim, and there was something subtley not quite as impressive about either the binocular overlap or just the "closeness" of images in the Odyssey, but it was still very good and the great contrast and higher resolution made up for it.
--------------------------------------
> The forehead pad and back pad are nice and comfortable with most of the weight resting on the forehead and off of the nose/cheek area.
Eventually that forehead pad really started to dig into my forehead. I had a couple sessions that gave me real pain. Here was my solution: https://imgur.com/a/a9lqJ
--------------------------------------
> The damn nose flaps.
I totally agree! These would block about 70% of my nasal airflow! But there is an easy fix -- fold them back in behind the lenses. Works great, stays in place, and is easily reversible.
--------------------------------------
> They are comfortable and easy to position.
I found them a bit hard to get a good seal with. The DAS seems more articulatable which helps get a better on-ear seal which gives it the potential for a bit more perceived bass and therefore a bit more balanced frequency response. But neither holds up against my Audio-Technica ATH-M50s. I'm hopeful the Vive Pro audio addresses that a little more.
--------------------------------------
> If you are looking for a portable VR experience with a laptop or like to travel and show others VR without having to set up lighthouses or cameras
Yep, that is definitely the big benefit of the Odyssey. It can't be beat for that type of use case. It was kind of lost on me (no laptop, single permanent VR space at home), and I eventually decided due to the substandard controllers and controller tracking that it was worth more turned back into $486 so I returned it after 8 weeks due to Microsoft's very generous holiday return policy. I knew I'd miss it (certain aspects of it) and I do. If I were more into sims and had a driving setup it would have been a tougher call by far.
I do hope they pull together a version with more cameras that can handle the controllers getting close to the cameras and operate in lower light. Best would be some way to give the controllers actual inside-out tracking of their own using their own cameras but that might require a prohibitively large amount of information sent over Bluetooth (BT 5.0?) to the CPU for the Machine Vision algorithm.
I needed the exact same thing. This is what I went with from amazon. They work great. One is the set of the tripods and the other is the mini ball head you will need for each lighthouse with the tripod.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012FTXOW4/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WB02Z4/
I would also recommend extending the triple cable an extra 10 feet. You won't be able to keep the cable and HMD in the box after adding the cables, but it doesn't get tangled as easy and just works better when having other people try it for the first time.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FT9VW0O/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0008JHB14/
I have a very similar setup for my Rift and I have had very few problems with it in the 6 months or so that I've had it. I will recommend that you take your time when doing the actual setup. I spent close to an hour finetuning the positioning of the sensors before I got them to track nearly perfect.
This is the USB extension cable that I've been using for both sensors. I have mine plugged into USB 2.0 ports on my MOBO and I've had zero issues thus far.
EDIT: I'll also note that I have both sensors mounted upside down on the celing. I just used the stand that they came with and some velcro.
I bought the following to extend my Odyssey 10' and they are working very well
HDMI extension
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
USB 3.0 extension
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
These are what I use to extend my headset cables.
I'm using these....
HMDI
USB
Then for the sake of asthetics, I wrapped them both in this to keep the wires together when routing.
10 foot for each, which has worked for me, but 15 might give a bit more flexibility depending on the location of your PC. But part of the benefit of the hanging cables is that as long as your cable can reach diagonally to the opposite corner of your space, (front to back, left to right, and top to bottom. Diagonally in 3 dimensions), then it should be able to reach anywhere in your space. The stock Rift cable can reach diagonally across my space, and my extension cables are just getting my cable to its "start" position in the corner.
Keep in mind these cables don't have a ton of strength, so I recommend getting a hefty command strip hook to statically fix your wire near the ceiling to take a lot of the weight, then the hook cables can split the weight from there as it droops towards your head naturally.
This turned into a bit of a novel but I hope my "lessons learned" are helpful haha
A few other things:
As others have mentioned, the Odyssey's tracking relies on the room having enough light for the cameras to see.
While the Vive works great in total darkness, you have to remember to turn on the lights at night to make the Odyssey track.
And one other thing I should mention is that the cable is a bit short on the Odyssey, I had to buy some extension cables from Amazon to be comfortable I wouldn't accidentally yank out or break the connectors.
I went with these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/
Just as another datapoint. I'm using a ASUS ROG MAXIMUS VIII GENE LGA 1151 Intel Z170 mobo. I have a Cable Matters 10ft Passive USB3 extension cable which is similar to the one you tested and although you had limited success this worked fine for the camera sensor on all my rear ports. My front ports aren't currently hooked up to check.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U
running a 2080 with display port extension 10 ft version
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B06Y46KJ3X?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
and the amazon basics usbc to usb 3.1 plugged into the VR link port on the 2080 (usbc)
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01GGKYXVE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
with this brand plugged into the amazon basics
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I've used these with my Ride S and they work fine. Keep in mind it's about more than just you cables. It has to do with your USB ports too. I've found my IXT motherboards tend to work better than my ATX boards. I think the shorter traces of ITX make for better signal integrity.
So the same cable my work for some people and not for others. Good luck!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C7SA21U?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image
https://www.amazon.com/your-orders/pop?packageId=1&amp;ref=ppx_yo2_mob_b_pop&amp;orderId=112-5223028-2859402&amp;lineItemId=kkkkmqkunpmvony&amp;shipmentId=Dsp458cSP
> USB - Eleven of these https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A2HI77ZYQGGRR3&amp;psc=1
I think you might struggle with daisy chaning these USB 3.0 extensions. Apparently the maximum length for passive USB 3.0 cables should be around 3 meters otherwise you'll start encountering poor signal.
I have 3 sensors, one plugged in directly, another via a short USB 3.0 ext, the third using the USB 2.0 ext that comes with the extra sensor from Oculus. All seems to work great. I'd probably start with 3 sensors and only add the 4th if you really need it.
I use this setup without any issues:
HDMI cable extenstion
USB Cable extension of the rift
USB Cable extension for the cameras
Here are the links for all the extras I bought to set it up.
(the 16 ft extension is the one that came when I ordered my oculus.)
Have a look at this video ! In about 5minutes he explains that you want a high quality USB 3.0 cable.
Try this cable in 10ft length.
Carabiners are useful. Clip one to a back belt loop on a pair of jeans/etc, then loop the cable through it. It goes a long way towards keeping the cable out of the way of your feet. It also cuts down on the amount of "tugging" you feel on your head as you pull the cable along behind you, which makes it feel a little less immersion-breaking.
> Do I need to get some extension cables to allow more freedom of movement further away from my PC? If so, which ones?
I think so, assuming you have the play space. Oculus has some recommended cables. I bought these 10ft extensions on Amazon and they have served me well with quite a few different headsets with no issues - HDMI and USB
get yourself some VR Covers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0779VGT9W
---
a USB extension cable
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
---
an HDMI extension cable (you only need one, but you can't beat the deal)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/
---
a pack of velcro ties for the cables
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O9VKVFK/
---
bluetooth 4.0 adapter if you don't have one (or don't have a good one) and plug into a USB 2.0 port if possible. put it on the end of any USB extension cable will help ensure a direct line of sight to you from the adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ZIILLI/
---
and finally, if your USB ports fail the WMR test, get this card
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011LZY20G/
The same one you linked here, the 10ft
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
I've extended all my sensors and my headset to give me full use of my computer room using only passive. Sounds like you've already got this to work but here's what I use in case anyone else wants to know. Cost me in total, like $45 and everything works perfectly.
Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet
AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable - 6 Feet (Latest Standard)
Cable Matters (2 Pack) Gold-Plated High Speed HDMI Female Coupler 3D & 4K Resolution-Ready
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Those extensions are perfect on my setup, looking at my order I actually got the 10 feet cables.
For anyone interested:
Sleeve: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007VSTFMI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
HDMI: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
USB: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Gives me 10 feet of breathing room so I can fasten it to the desk leg, reducing the risk to my motherboard and GPU
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=ya_st_dp_summary
I guess so, sure; it just seems like it'd give you more variety in gameplay in the future.
If you ever want to try it out, I personally just ordered this extension cable after numerous recommendations from the /r/oculus community for like $18 CAD. :)
Yes Ducky is a great brand.
MK Ducky if you do not mind red.
Jelly Comb USB Number pad.
Is this the $20 mech numpad on amazon? Are they gateron or outemu switches? It looks pretty great to me!
There is a numpad that often shows up on r/mechanicalkeyboards that is said to be of great value for its price https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E8U8HKW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_034qxb5NWRHFF the letters arent all that pretty though.
Mechanical Numberpad.
https://www.amazon.com/Number-Jelly-Comb-Mechanical-Numeric/dp/B01E8U8HKW
https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Numeric-Keypad-Jelly-Comb/dp/B01E8U8HKW
Here's one in black without the branding, they don't seem to have the white one listed currently.
Not sure if it's 100% identical to OP's but the shell looks to be the same. The one I linked has Outemu Blues which are rather loud, and it has buttons not found on a normal 104-key keyboard's number pad.
jelly comb numpad
https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Numeric-Keypad-Jelly-Comb/dp/B01E8U8HKW
Not cherry switches but gets the job done
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E8U8HKW?psc=1
Or this if you want RGB and Cherry Blues
https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&amp;p=2247
Tenkey:
Pok3r's a good choice, even if you already have one IMO.
Looks great and much better than I could do :)
You could try animating him waving his hands on 1s instead of just "blurring" the movement.
For hotkeys, buy something like this and the remap your hotkeys to it.
I feel the same way. If I had more interest in this keyboard I would probably just buy it, and then buy something like this, Num Pad Keyboard
I will go with something like this or [this] (https://www.amazon.com/X-keys-Programmable-Keypads-Keyboards-XK-60/dp/B0092SGI0C/ref=pd_sbs_147_34?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B0092SGI0C&amp;pd_rd_r=4E3VJZE240C17AXZE3KP&amp;pd_rd_w=Rk1Kd&amp;pd_rd_wg=K1xYi&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=4E3VJZE240C17AXZE3KP)
Jelly Comb Numpad. I got the white version and ended up handwiring it to use as desoldering practice/macropad and to have a removable cable. The switches are really loud but very nice.
This HP Spectre x2 model at $380
Basically everything you want minus a numpad and backlighting. you could pick-up a numpad with mechanical switches for an extra $20 https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Numeric-Keypad-Jelly-Comb/dp/B01E8U8HKW
Dont know if youd call it a stellar deal, but its there
I have the same stick and using the rift. What works for me with extra buttons is that I place a razor orbweaver on the table to the left of my sticks and it works great!! You might not need that many extra buttons though and a tarurus would probably work just fine for cheaper. I was tempted to upgrade to the x 52 pro but I I love my current stick and I won't be upset if this breaks in me vs a 200 dollar stick that would make me very mad.
Edit:
I found this and i bet it works great without overpaying for the other gameboards.
https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Numeric-Keypad-Jelly-Comb/dp/B01E8U8HKW/ref=pd_sbs_63_19?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=T8FA0QXTK4D049XMXD6Q
The raised layer in the 5 key should make it easy to memorize each button around it so you don't need to see it in Vr.
Here's another for 9 bucks! If you use a shift key on your Hotas then you are basically doubling the amount of keys here :)
https://www.amazon.com/Numeric-Jelly-Comb-Portable-Computer/dp/B01E8TTWZ2/ref=pd_cp_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=10HV6T876Q90396BM4CJ
KC21 would be perfect but it's white. There's a Qisan Magicforce in black. The Ducky Pocket has 23 keys and is fully programmable. And here is a no name brand with clone switches for $17
I'm having a hard time finding exactly what you want with 17/18 keys but I know they exist
My favorite time to play roguelikes is whenever I should be doing something important, look schoolwork (such as right now). Usually I'll play for a few hours, a couple of different games but I'll focus on one usually. Currently I am focusing on Caves of Qud and Cataclysm: Dark Days Ahead. I feel I might play some UnReal World today though, it's such a zen game.
Since I have a laptop the only thing that could be considered a set-up is I have bought an external keypad just for roguelike purposes.
Playing for a long time can be good or bad for me. It really depends on how cocky I get with my later-game characters, especially if the game has a part where it lets me be awesome, and lets me completely own everything (or I've just gotten lucky drops).
$20 on Amazon Prime with Outemu Blues. Had mine for 6 months. Does just fine.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01E8U8HKW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1466539846&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=mechanical+numpad&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=418u37V-nDL&amp;ref=plSrch
This one doesn't match the style, but it matches the value...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E8U8HKW/
no, but your keycaps probably are. they're super thin ABS. I don't really know how osu works but from what I've seen its 2 buttons right?
Why not just use a numpad
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B01E8U8HKW/ref=dp_olp_used?ie=UTF8&amp;condition=used
16.99(19.99 new) used for a mech numpad, but it's got outemu blues in it.
Links, since imgur likes to break them on me:
(and click through to the imgur for instructions and whatnot)
It's a sandisk microSD
https://www.amazon.com/Sandisk-Ultra-200GB-Micro-Adapter/dp/B073JY5T7T/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511927322&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=200gb+sd
Hmmm I think I've settled on San disk 200gb. Lots of people say they use it with good results. And seems like a good bang for your buck https://www.amazon.ca/SanDisk-Ultra-microSDXC-Adapter-SDSQUAR-200G-GN6MA/dp/B073JY5T7T/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=switch+sd+card&amp;qid=1562006903&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=switch+sd+ca&amp;sr=8-5
Saw this on Amazon today, and I don't know if it is normal, but thought y'all might be interested. $22 off a 200 GB Sandisk microSD card:
https://www.amazon.com/Sandisk-Ultra-200GB-Micro-Adapter/dp/B073JY5T7T
256gb cards are way to overpriced right now I use a 200gb card https://www.amazon.com/Sandisk-Ultra-200GB-Micro-Adapter/dp/B073JY5T7T
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£21 on Amazon UK
https://www.amazon.co.uk/SanDisk-microSDXC-Memory-Adapter-Performance/dp/B073JY5T7T/ref=dp_ob_title_ce
It wont perform incredibly well, but if you're just filling it with small ROMs you're laughing
Storage is so cheap now.
https://www.amazon.com/Sandisk-Ultra-200GB-Micro-Adapter/dp/B073JY5T7T/ref=sr_1_4_acs_ac_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1538687137&amp;sr=1-4-acs&amp;keywords=micro+sd+card
That’s too bad since you can get one now for $47 on Amazon.
Sandisk Ultra 200GB Micro SDXC UHS-I Card with Adapter - 100MB/s U1 A1 - SDSQUAR-200G-GN6M
They have the 200gb for $44 right here. It's cheaper to buy two and switch them out. Little inconvenient but saves $40.
There's also a 200gb Micro SD Card that is available for £55.19 (20% off). Which ends at midnight too.
Can I ask why isn't the Sandisk 200 GB for $70 getting more recognition? For about $30 more and up to 200 GB sounds like a steal no?
If your local Best Buy has this card: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JY5T7T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_I6UMAbK6F6NX6
They should price match Amazon since it's sold and shipped by them.
Just picked it up this week based on recommendations here.
The old model battery is 2.5hrs-6.5hrs, depending on game and other factors.
The new model is 4.5hrs - 9hrs, again, depending on game and other factors.
The newer model also has a brighter handheld screen.
And, as much as you say you PLAN on being docked most of the time, you will find times and excuses to undock and take it along. (I never realized how much I wanted Fire Emblem 3 Houses with me when I had the tires put on the car...)
With that being said, a 200GB microSD for sure. Best price per GB and 200GB is quite a lot of games loaded.
I also suggest a grip for handheld with a case that fits the grip.
Again, i know you dont plan on being portable, but the Grip is GREAT when you are playing handheld, and a case is required for portable. And you'll want a case that fits it.
I suggest this one Switch GoPlay
These are also good, a bit more expensive.
https://www.amazon.com/Satisfye-Nintendo-Accessories-Premium-charging-Thumbsticks/dp/B07G3KB7RT/
https://www.amazon.com/Satisfye-Accessories-Compatible-Nintendo-Charging-Thumbsticks/dp/B07K2GX4P7/
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-200GB-microSDXC-Memory-Adapter/dp/B073JY5T7T/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=sandisk+micro+sd&amp;qid=1556256769&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
This is the one I bought. Assuming you dont get a fake one A1/XC 1 should be the identifier
Just get the 200 giga SD card. More bang for your buck. The logo is not worth the extra dollars IMO. This particular model goes on sale every once in a while.
Sandisk Ultra 200GB Micro SDXC... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JY5T7T?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I bought it off Amazon but I’ve been using this one
Sandisk recently had a sale on their online store, they sold out pretty quickly.
Amazon has one for $66 currently.
200 GB one is available for 56€ at amazon.com
Only thing I think you are missing on that great list is a memory card.
Edit: 200gb are on sale atm on amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073JY5T7T/?pldnSite=1
https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B074RNRM2B/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1AT7YVPFBWXBL&amp;psc=1
400gb micro SD $170
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0758NHWS8/?th=1
256gb micro SD $89.99
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B073JY5T7T/?th=1
200gb micro SD $49.99
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B073JYC4XM/?th=1
128gb micro SD $28.49
Tldr: my SD card loads games a lot slower than my friends cartridge.
I've seen a few sources that say, as far as speed goes, internal memory is faster than SD cards is faster than the cartridge. The cartridge and SD card are close.
I was playing Mario kart with a friend and his load times for each map were more than 15-20 seconds faster than mine, he was using a cartridge and I was using an SD card. Anyone else experiencing this?
Edit: tried two more times and it was much, much closer. Maybe a better question to ask is, approximately how long does it take your system to load up a Mario kart map?
I thought I bought the recommended card but maybe not?https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073JY5T7T/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
We each loaded a game stored on our sd cards and they loaded at the same pace, not that that is relevant.
Average of the last 50 price changes on Amazon is £63.96; Argos seem to be charging £84.99 for some reason.
Not a historic low according to CamelCamelCamel, but not far off.
https://camelcamelcamel.com/Sandisk-Ultra-200GB-Micro-Adapter/product/B073JY5T7T?active=price_amazon
I think you got the wrong site, this seems to be the right one.
ADDED: what I think is the unit you're referring to has a lot of bad 1 star Amazon reviews, from 2011 to March. Some people are certainly having problems with this unit....
That would work.
Or, you could use an external drive enclosure, like this one if you're concerned about the cost of a NAS. this is a lower cost solution. Instead of a few hundred dollars for the NAS (before the drives), this is only $100. It connects to your PC either eSATA or USB 3.0 (2.0 also works, but a little slower). Each drive shows up as an individual drive, but you could set up a software RAID for redundancy. And if you run out, you can always add more enclosures later.
If all you want is something hooked up to a computer you should really just buy a JBOD enclosure and connect it via eSATA / USB3: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003X26VV4/ref=as_li_ss_il?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=geekserious-20&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B003X26VV4
Your OS can do software RAID on the disks.
You can't "just plug a NAS into your computer" the only interface they have is Ethernet. You'd need a second network card, or plug it into a switch (your router)
Yes. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003X26VV4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2WSTUX2A6RQ1A&amp;psc=1
I got this MediaSonic 4 drive enclosure for $100 from Amazon a few months ago to replace a similar enclosure I had from Sans Digital that died.
Has USB 3.0 and eSATA connections. It can be used in JBOD mode if you don't want any kind of redundancy. It does not have any hardware RAID capabilities built in though I am doing a SW RAID with mirroring by making mirrors of 2 pairs of drives. That way if one dies, I can still avoid total data loss at least.
I have four 3TB drives in it at the moment.
I've seen a couple people that get a USB powered fan and point it at the area that gets hot on top of the CPU.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003XN24GY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AoxJybKESRJER
With my surface book, I've had far more success getting one of those USB fans and angling it towards the back of the tablet portion. It's far more portable, cheaper, quieter, and cools just as well if not better because you can direct the air flow exactly to where you need it.
Arctic ABACO-BZG00-010000 ARCTIC Breeze Mobile - Mini USB Desktop Fan with Flexible Neck and Adjustable Fan Speed I Portable Desk Fan for Home, Office I Silent USB Fan I Fan Speed 1700 RPM - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003XN24GY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_j3T4Ab0RSPGEB
I think this is it. Link
Do you think this would work better than one of these placed towards the right corner?
This shouldnt happen if you're using an external fan. I use a usb fan plugged into the surface and I never experience throttling, while playing any of my games- whether it be cs:go, civ 5, overwatch, rocket league. I do not even undervolt.
You must either have a defective unit, or you're using your fan incorrectly. I use the arctic breeze usb gooseneck fan, and I point it at the upper right hand corner of my surface. The surface blows hot air out the left side. Do not point it at the left side.
If you wanted a laptop for gaming, you should've gotten a regular laptop in the first place, or at best- a gaming laptop. This could all be made extremely easy through using this simple 7$ fan, http://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-USB-Powered-Portable-Solution-Gooseneck/dp/B003XN24GY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465169109&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=arctic+breeze+usb+fan
Mine runs hot when I'm using Photoshop. I've read elsewhere that the heat is within Intel specs.
Regardless, I bought a USB fan that I point at the Mini, and it cools it down great.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003XN24GY/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_NxCyDb335Y7YE
Y'all may laugh, but this usb travel fan. There are so many times that I stay in dorms and just need a little bit of moving air and this thing has come in handy countless times. I can think of one particular stay on the beach in Guatemala in a hostel with pod beds and no fans provided. Everybody complained and was miserable. I wasn't as jolly as if I had an actual fan or AC, but I sure was doing better.
It plugs straight into a usb, makes no sound, and is light enough that I'm happy to justify it.
There are tweaks you can do to make it not throttle. You need to change the power options which requires you do go into regedit and make a simple change. Here's the link on how to do it.
http://forums.windowscentral.com/microsoft-surface-pro-4/403403-no-more-throttle-fans-surface-pro-3-4-a.html
I can now game on medium settings without it throttling. Plus, get this fan...
http://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-USB-Powered-Portable-Solution-Gooseneck/dp/B003XN24GY?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
It's not too loud and it keeps the back of the surface cool.
I should say that I have the i7 16gig so I have the 540 vid chip, but I'm sure it will work also for the i5 version.