Best computer cables & adapters according to redditors
We found 2,012 Reddit comments discussing the best computer cables & adapters. We ranked the 201 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 2,012 Reddit comments discussing the best computer cables & adapters. We ranked the 201 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
I have this one and the ethernet works just fine. Haven't tried the other ports.
Get a couple of the TechMatte adapters, and put them in important places (office, battery pack pouch, car,...). Now you can borrow chargers, and use your old equipment.
http://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Resistor-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG/
So cheap, and these are Benson approved.
If you don't want to watch the video that's cool, here's a summary;
Over the last few months I've been testing various cables for use with my four sensor setup. What I quickly discovered was that not all cables are created equal in the eyes of the Oculus Rift!
The Rift and Sensors can be a bit stubborn when it comes to cables. Some work intermitantly, some report USB 3.0 as USB 2.0, some give audio issues when using with the Rift and some just point blank refused to work.
I think I've finally nailed down the best cables which I've personally tested and would recommend to use with your Rift.
Due to the summer sale I know we have an influx of new Rift users so hopefully this guide helps.
Here's the links where you can buy these cables for yourself;
Cable Matters USB 3.0 3M /10FT Extension Cable:
UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=pe_1909131_77697001_tnp_email_TE_AMZLdp_3?th=1
US - https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503739950&sr=8-1&keywords=cable+matters+superspeed+usb+3.0
KabelDirekt 2m / 6FT HDMI Extension Cable:
UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B013ICN59Y/ref=pe_1909131_77697001_tnp_email_TE_AMZLdp_2
US - https://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-Extension-Cable-1080p-Ethernet/dp/B012ASNHIG/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503740842&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=kabeldirekt+2m+extension
DVI to HDMI Adapter:
UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00ZMVGTA2/ref=pe_1909131_77697001_tnp_email_TE_AMZLdp_1
US - https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-2-Pack-Gold-Plated-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00ZMVGTA2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503740883&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=DVI+to+HDMI+adapter&psc=1
CableCreation 5M / 16FT USB 3.0 Active Extension Cable (Fine For Sensors BUT Causes Audio Issues When Using With Rift):
UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/CableCreation-Active-Extension-Extender-Female/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1503740956&sr=8-7&keywords=cable+creations+usb+3.0
US - https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Active-Extension-Extender-Female/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503740977&sr=8-1&keywords=cablecreation+usb+3.0
UGREEN 5M / 16FT USB 3.0 Active Extension Cable (Additional Power Micro USB Port isn't required when using the Rift. Do not use this with the Rift as may cause damage)
UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/UGREEN-Extension-Amplifier-PlayStation-loudspeakers/dp/B01FQ88CE6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503741031&sr=8-2&keywords=ugreen+oculus+cable
US - https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Extension-Repeater-Amplifier-Superspeed/dp/B01FQ88CE6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1503741078&sr=8-5&keywords=ugreen%2Busb%2B3.0%2Bextension&th=1
AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI 4.6M / 15FT Cable:
UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B014I8TOTC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
US - https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Rated-Wall-Installation-Cable/dp/B014I8TOTC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503741177&sr=8-2&keywords=AmazonBasics+High-Speed+HDMI+CL3+Cable
Mini HDMI Repeater Extender:
UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Repeater-Extender-130FT-Support-Switch/dp/B01MDS8DJH/ref=sr_1_11?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503740907&sr=1-11&keywords=hdmi+repeater
US - https://www.amazon.com/COWEEN-Repeater-Amplifier-Extender-Transmission/dp/B01GHL72XS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1503740927&sr=8-3&keywords=hdmi+repeater
Hope this helps :)
Upvote for visibility. This is something I desperately need answered as well. Can anyone confirm whether this Onvian USB Splitter Cable Male to 2 Female Adapter USB A Cord 2 Port Hub for Data Charging Syncing (Only one Port for Data) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KX4TKH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4ocSBbK5VB9ZM works?
For the 2 sensors on the wall above the computer I'm using 10ft USB 3.0 extension cables. For the 3rd camera I'm using a 16.4ft USB 2.0 extension cable, as well as a 6ft USB 3.0 extension cable because the 2.0 cable wasn't long enough. I have all 3 cameras plugged into the same USB controller on the motherboard. Since I'm using a 2.0 extension cable, the 3rd camera is running via USB 2.0.
I'm using a 10ft HDMI extension cable and a 10ft USB 3.0 cable for the headset. The extension cables are electrical taped together and secured to my desk using velcro straps. I have the headset USB plugged into a PCI-E USB card I bought because I was running out of USB ports.
It's worth noting that for the first couple of days, I was getting occasional errors where the it said the headset was disconnected and I would have to unplug the USB and plug it back in. Since moving the headset to the USB on the PCI-E card (off the same controller as the sensors) I have not had this issue or any other issues to speak of.
6ft 3.0 Extension
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CFL6ARO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
16.4ft 2.0 Extension
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KY9M51O/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
10ft 3.0 Extension
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
USB PCI-E Expansion Card
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
10ft HDMI Extension
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004C4SECG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You could just use one of [these] (https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7S2FRE/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503165491&sr=1-3&keywords=usb+extension+cable)
http://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Upgraded-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG/ref=pd_cp_147_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1QPK4093FC59VZDY43BB
Benson approved! Check the first review.
Only 2 reviews with the only verified one with wonky english? Pass.
You want a adapter that wont fry your phone? Stick to the stuff Benson has approved of like this one for $6.99 https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Converts-Resistor-ChromeBook/dp/B01AHKYIRS
Or this one for $1 less than the Anker : https://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Resistor-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG
You need a splitter and a data blocker to charge two iPhones. Not sure about android.
Onvian USB Splitter Cable Male to 2 Female Adapter USB A Cord 2 Port Hub for Data Charging Syncing (Only one Port for Data) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KX4TKH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mGxzCbR70BH70
PortaPow 3rd Gen Data Blocker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XGM6LJB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vHxzCbPGCG2NR
Photo of setup.
https://imgur.com/gallery/jubfyvn
Ordered this $6 USB splitter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KX4TKH6/
Car Configuration:
1 USB into NOMAD
1 USB into Splitter that then splits the Power (Red Elastic on Wire) into NOMAD and Power+Data into flash drive.
​
Everything seems great, pulled dashcam footage from a few drives and wasn't missing anything and NOMAD keeps my phone charged. Will see how it keeps up over the next few weeks.
100% hearsay: 2 prong plugs are compliant as is. if any electrical work needs to be performed, then the landlord needs to upgrade to 3 prong.
if you don't have any sensitive electrical equipment, you can get adapters
If anyone needs a smaller run- I successfully extended my setup 6 feet using cheap cables off Amazon.
These are the exact cables I’m using:
Cable Matters USB to USB Extension Cable (USB 3.0 Extension Cable) in Black 6 Feet for Oculus Rift, HTC Vive, Playstation VR Headset and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7S2FRE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fRCRDbCTBPZSF
Cable Matters DisplayPort to DisplayPort Extension Cable (DP to DP Extension Cable) 6 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L1K1G74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oSCRDbD0YGAVG
For reference: AORUS RTX 2080 Waterforce
Going direct into the MOBO for the USB extender.
I have been running it this was for close to a month and have logged probably a day worth of playtime. I have not noticed any blips/artifacts or any visual/lag issues. It’s like the cables aren’t even there.
Exactly.
Until now, Thunderbolt 3 to Displayport has been extremely niche. Now with the new Macbook, it's just niche.
Give it some time, you should be able to find an adaptor eventually.
This full size displayport cable claims to support 4K@60Hz, but I can't guarantee that it works with the Macbook:
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Chromebook-ThunderboltTM-3840x2160/dp/B01EXKDRAC
You would also need an adaptor to adapt it to mini Displayport rather than full size.
It depends on the connection, you occasionally need an 'active' adapter like this one which I had to purchase to hook a desktop I own up to my TV.
I don't think they make 'active' cables, do they?
I have a OnePlus X that still works great. I think the galaxy S6 and S7 both use micro USB as well.
[or you could keep one of these with you] (https://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Resistor-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG)
https://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Resistor-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG
I use it for my Pixel phone. I haven't tried charging a MacBook using one.
I used THIS, THIS and THIS to extend my Pimax. Works great, no problems.
What's with the Amazon links being attached to a Youtube link?
For those looking for clean links:
EDIT: OP clarified why the links are buried in Youtube links since this post.
I've been having success with:
Buddy...
Him hauling a tv around might be tedious, but would probably be easiest. Otherwise this was what I found in a review on a converter on Amazon.
" dana·August 13, 2017
5.0 out of 5 starsVerified Purchase
Color: Black
The adapter needs to be powered to work so connect the included cable to the phone charger unit that is plugged in to an electrical socket ( like a iPhone charger or Android)
Got it for connecting PS4 to older computer monitor. Works very well! Helping everyone trying to do the same thing:
You will need:
3 old phone charger with USB cord.
Connect HDMI port of the adapter to PS4. Connect VGA cable to adapter and then the monitor. Connect audio jack to adapter and then the monitor ( if it has built in speakers) or directly into the PS4 controller. The adapter needs to be powered to work so connect the included cable to the phone charger unit that is plugged in to an electrical socket ( like a iPhone charger or Android).
Power up the PS4 in SAFE MODE ( very important). Then once powered, change resolution to 420! The PS4 will automatically restart and everything will work as normal. Enjoy!"
Link to item. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZMV7RL2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00
Here's a link to a very useful reply by fellow redditor u/merespectator
https://www.reddit.com/r/PS4/comments/43pfqh/using_a_ps4_in_a_displayport_monitor/czkhikv
Good luck to you and your husband. Stay strong and may thoughts and prayers do wonders for both of you. Stay 💪
Edit: wow, lots of replies really quick. There was only one when I started writing. Great work folks.
Try a DisplayPort to HDMI adapter for the TV? Example: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B010SDZZ80
no DP is the best, why?
thats why there are a boatload of adapters, one of the XFX ref backplate cards include a DP>DVI adapter i think
if everyone wanted DVI, we would have been stuck at 1600p60 for a 100 years..
those adapters i told you about?, dont cost an arm or a leg, its like 18 bucks for a active one dp to dvi or 28 for hdmi 2.0
DisplayPort to DVI or HDMI
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B00EDT01TO/
DisplayPort to HDMI 2.0
https://www.amazon.com/Club3D-Displayport-1-2-HDMI-CAC-1070/dp/B017BQ8I54
Dealt with this issue myself.
I managed to get it to work in the end by doing the following;
Now doing it this way means you can't use the OS to set the scaling so what you need to do is set your resolution in screenresX to 2560 x 1440 (It will still be at 3840 x 2160) but scaled to the lower res so its easier to see.
It's definitely not a hardware issue, its just Apple putting limitations on 60hz output. For some reason MacOS doesn't like 4K 60hz output over HDMI. Hopefully once their E-GPU platform comes out this will be an issue of the past.
This is the adapter I used and works 100% of the time for me! Club3D Displayport 1.2 to HDMI 2.0 UHD (CAC-1070)
Hi, it's best to have the Rift plugged directly into your GPU's HDMI port and to use the adapter with your display instead, because many adapters can cause display issues with the Rift. If you still need to use an adapter, we recommend the Cable Matters 4K DisplayPort to HDMI 4K Adapter, as it known to work with the Rift, which can be found on https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Gold-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B00K0UDYLM/. Thanks!
This splitter will work https://www.amazon.com/Onvian-Splitter-Adapter-Charging-Syncing/dp/B01KX4TKH6/
Yeah, I bought these 2 extension cables (6ft), wall mount for the headset/touch controllers and cable suspension system. They all work perfectly :)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045532LU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0777H24ZG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0781G75B5/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Sure, this seems to be the right one: https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0C7QO8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1495641526&sr=8-5&keywords=active%2Bdisplayport%2Bto%2Bhdmi&th=1
"Active" is the key word here
I have [this splitter.](Onvian USB Splitter Cable... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KX4TKH6) One side is for music on my flash drive, the other is for a qi charger. I haven't tested the charging speed, but it does charge while music is playing. For backup, I've got a charger in the cigarette lighter.
Many laptops have a USB-C port that is capable of being used in displayport mode, and transmitting a displayport signal.
I have 2 Dell displayport monitors that I connect to my MacBook Pro using one of these cables: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EXKDRAC/
There are also adapters like this for existing cables: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N2ORP84/
Since what you're looking at is "thunderbolt 3 compatible", I believe that also means it'll work in displayport mode.
This is why I was thinking it would have been nice if we created a list from the start where we compile what hardware works and what doesn't, both for USB cables, and HDMI, and motherboards too.
But in any case, if it's useful, these work for me:
http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
http://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Extension-Cable-10-FT/dp/B00GBBSZFE/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
How about 10 more feet?
Only $6.
power:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FT9VW0O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_WTxdxbG2WKX4D
Usb:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_YGxdxbPW3R45Z
HDMI:https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Commercial-Premium-Female-Extension/dp/B004C4SECG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1460784534&sr=8-1&keywords=Monoprice+Commercial+Series+Premium+10ft+24AWG+CL2+High+Speed+HDMI+Cable+Male+to+Female+Extension+-+Black
I used black electrical tape to group the cables together after stretching them out and it works great. I accidentally made the usb to tight and occaisonally it pops out during transportation but rarely so if your going to group them together make sure they have enough slack.
These should be everything you need and I've tested them with just the Oculus and they work perfectly:
You could get a 2-pack of the USB extender which may work with the camera as well.
Here's the items I purchased to extend the headset 10 feet.
Power cable- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FT9VW0O/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
HDMI- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JJ517VI/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
USB- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C7SA21U/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I also went with a 1/2" braided sleeve to hold them all together. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ZATN3WI/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Edit: Including like where I got my info originally. https://www.reddit.com/r/Vive/comments/4eiqda/10ft_extension_cables_after_the_breakout_box/?sort=confidence
Vrcover for sure
And don't get the PK Cell, get these
USB Rechargeable Batteries 1.5V/1500mAh Lithium Ion AA Battery with 4-in-1 Micro USB Charging Cable 1.5h Quick-Charge Built-in Integrated Safety Circuit Protection Double A Batteries(4 Pack)) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F27PK2M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JBc7CbNV06EYV
Or these
CT ENERGY USB Rechargeable AA Batteries 1.5V/1600mAh Lithium ion Battery with 1.5 Hours Quick Charging Micro-USB Port Li-ion Double A Batteries (4packs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q3DBYV7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sCc7Cb0R2DXZZ
I have both and they are great batteries.
Extensions that work:
AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI Extension Cable - 6 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H90L4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lDc7CbBE9E1R5
6ft
Cable Matters 200008-BLACK-6 USB to USB Extension Cable in Black 6 Feet Available 3FT 10FT in Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7S2FRE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ODc7CbA4Q82ZZ
6ft
And I like to use the usb-c port on my laptop. It's closer to the HDMI and seems like a stronger port when using the usb extension.
AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB 3.1 Gen1 Female Adapter Cable - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYXVE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8Dc7CbJA5TMTV
Yep. I use a 6ft extender for the headset HDMI paired with a 6 ft USB 3.0 extender.
HDMI: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00JJ519KC/
USB: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE
I've been using them for a little over a week now, not a single issue.
EDIT: changed to UK links.
For one sensor, this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and for the other sensor, this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I've successfully created a 10 ft (~2m??) extension beyond the break out box. Total cost was under $50. I have a 3.2m x 3.5m or so area and I have more than enough space. One thing I'd note is that the HDMI cable extension is HEAVY/THICK. After I put all the extension cables through the mesh casing, it makes the cable paclage very rigid. Still, this works flawlessly for me! Links to amazon below...
HDMI: Monoprice Commercial Series Premium 10ft 24AWG CL2 High Speed HDMI Cable Male to Female Extension - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004C4SECG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_2a4HxbGN1CTQG
USB: Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Qb4Hxb1AHSCGS
DC Power: Hanvex HDCA12 12 ft 1.3mm DC Power Extension Cable for Foscam, Agasio, Tenvis, Loftek Wireless IP Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FT9VW0O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_yc4HxbRGNZ5AB
1/2" casing sleeve: 1/2" PET Expandable Braided Sleeving- 10ft - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZATN3WI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Md4HxbR1Y7KTX
Warning: wall of text ahead. I'm going to recycle an older comment and make it more specific to your post.
It kind of depends. What CPU and GPU do/will you have? Do you have enough room to swing your arms while standing stationary? Do you like simulations, such as racing games or flight/space sims? These actually have an impact on the best headset (HMD) for you. I own the Vive (non-Pro), Rift, and Samsung Odyssey so my comments are based on use of all three.
Oculus Rift:
Lighter and easier to deal with. Has built-in audio. Some really nice platform exclusives, though there is a way to play those on the Vive. (More on that shortly.) Cheaper than the Vive, and cheapest option in general other than some Windows Mixed Reality HMDs that you should probably avoid. Tracking is, in my opinion, a little inferior to the Rift, even if you get a 3rd sensor. However, you can "fake it 'til you make it" on the Rift with only two sensors by mounting them in opposite corners of your play area. The Rift requires at least 3 USB 3 ports, or 4 if you add a 3rd sensor, so that's a lot of requyired ports. Seated/standing experiences work slightly better than roomscale, though this is something they've overcome with time. Games/apps purchased through the Oculus Store won't work on another HMD (barring 3rd party hacks/apps), limiting your future hardware upgrade options so buy any non-Oculus exclusives through the Steam store. Touch controllers are the current king for controllers, but Knuckle controllers for Vive/SteamVR are pending. (More on that shortly.) MUCH more pronounced "god rays" than the Rift. The business practices and politics of Facebook/Oculus are questionable, if you care about that sort of thing. Customer service is ticket-based only and there's no option for phone-based support.
HTC Vive:
The regular Vive is $100 outside your price point. The Vive Pro is more than double so I won't go into it much here. The Vive has significantly better tracking than the Rift unless you get at least a 3rd sensor, and even then there are sometimes issues. No built-in audio on the regular Vive but this is resolved with the Deluxe Audio Strap, albeit for $100 more. The Vive offers a better Roomscale experience, in my opinion. Games are purchased through Steam, which means you can take advantage of Steam sales, buy games at a discount (sometimes 80-90% off!) from third-party sites like Humble Bundle, Green Man Gaming, etc. Note, however, that the Rift is compatible with most VR games on Steam, too. You can also play Rift exclusives using free, third-party software called ReVive, but that this is not officially supported and YMMV. Not every game works. (Essentially, it tricks Rift titles into thinking a Rift is connected, and remaps the buttons to the Vive controller. However, since there are differences between the controller control types, this isn't always perfect.) Controllers are meh but work fine; just not as intuitive or comfortable as the Rift's. When (might be a while) the Knuckles controllers finally come out, they'll probably be the best. The Vive is more glasses-friendly but those who are just nearsighted won't necessarily need to wear glasses at all. There's a new wireless adapter that's nice but only applies if you're driving it with a desktop PC because it uses a PCIe card rather than USB. For non-wireless, however, one nice thing about the Vive is that the HMD only uses one USB 3 and one HDMI, and that's it. The Lighthouses (base stations) only need power and don't require USB. HTC support is both phone and ticket but is terrible either way. Some people have resorted to public shaming via YouTube/social media. YMMV.
Samsung Odyssey (WMR):
Higher resolution display, on par with the Vive Pro, which equates to a much less pronounced "screen door effect" (seeing the gridlines between pixels) than other HMDs. This is very nice for more detailed games like racing games or flight/space sims where you have to read a lot of small dials or text. Significantly lesser support for games and experiences. That said, just because an app doesn't explicitly state it works with WMR doesn't mean it won't work... but it might not. Controllers are pretty bad compared to the others. Tracking is also worse (uses inside-out tracking, so no sensors), but still significantly better than I thought it would be. This won't matter much if at all for seated or standing experiences; just for roomscale. The benefit is that you can do VR on the go with a gaming laptop. (At least a 1070 Max Q, though a full 1070 or 1080 is recommended.) The cable is significantly shorter than the others so, realistically, it's just a seated/standing experience. Roomscale is technically possible but severely limited. Also, there are specific cases (for example: archery games) where the controllers will end up out of view of the HMD's cameras, which will break tracking. Samsung's phone-based support is usually pretty decent, though I haven't needed it for the HMD yet.
Other Windows Mixed Reality HMDs:
The Lenovo Explorer gets some good reviews and sometimes goes on sale for as little as $170 with controllers. (Note: it can be found cheaper without controllers but you need controllers for most VR experiences, so...) It's important to note that the Lenovo Explorer (and all other WMR HMDs other than the the Samsung Odyssey) lacks IPD adjustment. IPD stands for interpupilary distance, which is the distance between your eyes. Everyone's eyes are a different distance apart but most WMR manufacturers didn't include this feature to keep costs down. However, using an HMD without the right IPD can cause nausea, blurriness, and headaches and can ruin your VR experience. I'd strongly recommend going with one that does. I haven't generally heard good things about any of the other WMR HMDs other than the Samsung Odyssey or the Lenovo Explorer. The others are relatively cheap but lack features, perform poorly, or both.
A note about VR graphics:
It really depends on the game. To avoid nausea, VR generally has to run at about 90 Hz, which can necessitate less comprehensive textures. However, people have done absolutely amazing things with VR to the point that you simply don't notice. A prime example of this is Lone Echo (Oculus only). The visuals are stunning, though I'd be remiss if I didn't mention the incredible story, method of teaching game mechanics, and the pure immersive feeling they pull off. Lone Echo is VR done right, and it feels like an AAA title. The Climb is another example of incredible visuals and reasonable immersion. That's the game currently making the rounds (again) of Reddit via this GIF. Skyrim VR is another example of impressive visuals in VR. Skyrim is somewhat dated, but yes; those incredible photorealistic immersion mods from desktop Skyrim work in VR and you can totally play Skyrim VR seated. All of that said... you are looking at a 1080p monitor magnified by relatively cheap optics no matter which rout you go. It's like looking at 1080p on a 70" screen from <4 feet away. You are going to notice the pixels, but you're also going to forget about it pretty quickly as you get distracted by the incredible experiences and other visuals. The only exception to this will be games with lots of detail like flight and space sims. Unfortunately, games like that really need higher res than VR can realistically provide right now. This may change with 20-series GPUs. For everything else, you'll probably mostly forget about the issue.
Roomscale:
Your roomscale abilities are going to be hampered by your small play area. Generally, the recommended minimum area is roughly 2x2.5 meters, if I remember correctly. Some roomscale games will refuse to launch with such a small area marked off. Others will launch, but you'll be unable to reach some things. Your play area will probably just barely suffice but you might need to "cheat" and mark off a slightly larger are than you actually have. The Vive and Rift both do Roomscale and seated/standing VR. WMR only does seated/standing VR reasonably well and is terrible at roomscale (due to the restricted cable length, not to mention poorer tracking) whenever you are able to make more room for it, and the controllers are much worse.
Cable lengths:
All VR HMD cables are a bit shorter than they could be. You can buy some extension cables, but some work and some don't... sometimes with no explicable reason. I've found that this HDMI cable and this USB extension cable work to extend the HDM for both the Vive and the Rift, and this USB extension cable works to extend the Rift cameras. If you decide to get both a Vive and a Rift, the extension cables I linked for the HMDs are able to go to the Vive's breakout box and then either the Vive or Rift can plug into that with success. The Samsung Odyssey does NOT work when plugged into the Vive's breakout box but I haven't yet tested the extension cables so it might work if the breakout box isn't present.
TL;DR:
At this point, my recommendation for first-time VR on a budget is the Oculus Rift. If you know you'll get into/stick with VR and can afford the Vive (so long as you can also afford the Delux Audio Strap), I'd recommend the Vive. The Samsung Odyssee is also a decent solution but at its price point I'd generally recommend the others unless the majority of your usage will be in highly-detailed simulators or similar games.
Yep I am using the 10 foot variant of each of these and they work great. The USB I have had for awhile as it came from my CV1 but the display port is new for the S.
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Display Port Extender
USB 3.0 Extender
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KX4TKH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PalXBb2ZR2MEV
This one is used successfully by someone doing a Pi Zero project to do USB music, TeslaCam, and the Nomad.
USB: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
HDMI: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Both work just fine. HDMI cable is a little thick & stiff, but remember this is the section closest to your computer & doesn't get lifted/moved often (like the light cable that goes to your head).
In a forum post on Oculus quite some time ago cyber recommended the following pair which are in use at Oculus:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I can confirm they work for me for a 10' extension on the HMD. As a bonus there is now a break away for the cables that is not my motherboard!
I don't think there would be any "audio delay" or anything. These adaptors may be "active", but they aren't like transcoders; both displayport and hdmi support pretty much the same colorspaces for video, and same audio formats. All it's doing is changing the transport layer.
Honestly, an HDMI repeater or even your home theater receiver probably would be more or less the same amount of "delay" if not more.
There are however some meh adapters out there, I recently had to go through like two bad ones before I found a good one; it was sort of my fault since I was trying to cheap out by going for inexpensive junk. If you do get one, I highly recommend 'Plugable' brand ones, like this one, this is the one that finally worked for me; they seem to be one of the better and more reputable companies for adapters, etc.
You have two options.
Micro USB to Type C adapter for use with any existing Micro USB cables you have such as the following:
TechMatte USB-C to Micro USB Adapter Convert Connector
Or purchase an actual certified USB Type C - Type A cable such as any in the following spreadsheet.
Certified Cables
I personally have the adapters above and cables from iOrange-E. They both work great. iOrange-E cables are a bit pricier than other brands though.
EDIT
Just found some deals while browsing other sites on actual cables
Got the below ones from amazon. They work great and are spec compliant
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0151RKYBG/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Correct, that dongle is for the Chromebook Pixel. Almost no Android phone these days contains the chip needed for HDMI output natively. The solution I use that is very reliable in most situations is an adapter that uses the DisplayLink protocol.
I use this adapter or the 2K version: https://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=9SIA2XB38Z2801
It's also on Amazon, I just found this link first.
You'll also need a USB 3.0 capable USB-C OTG adapter like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01COOQIKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_T.Pxyb7RV5ABE
And lastly, install the DisplayLink Presenter app on your device. Once set up it will output the full display at all times (though media apps like Netflix and Hulu generally don't work).
HDMI -> VGA cables are "active" (they have a chip in them) which means they need power from the host, and also means they are one way.
You might have got unlucky and got VGA to HDMI cables, which won't work the other way.
A converter like this with an extra power input for lower power devices might also help.
If you want a device only gallery, there are a few in the Play Store that work pretty well. Piktures is a pretty polished alternative.
I just got mine 5x today and have been going through all the setup process. I did not know how slow my moto x 2013 had become until I started setting up the 5x.
I just got a couple micro to C adapters the other day (Benson Leung approved). Keep one in the check in, one in your carry-on, and one tucked in a hole cut into your forearm, just in case (they're a lot smaller than I expected).
http://amzn.com/B0151RKYBG
I'm 18, I'm a student and a IT guy (pretty good one too). I like fixing stuff
What I put in my pockets
Verizon LG G3 An oldie but goodie, been weilding this phone for a little over 2 years. Currently is running Cyanogenmod 13. Also has a 3rd party Anker battery inside which are a bit nicer than the one the phone comes with
Buxton Tri-Fold wallet Very sturdy and nice feeling wallet. My grandparents got it for me half as a joke as my last name is Buxton. Holds a second battery for my phone in addition to all the money I dont have.
Keyring with 144GB of Flash Storage on it. Keys for my house, and assorted flash drives. 2 8GB and 2 64GB. One 64GB is for my portable build of Ubuntu, the other is for Storing files on the go. One 8GB is for Hirens Boot CD, and the last one doesnt work and i'm too much of a lazy ass to take it off. Plus it looks cool.
Feild Notes I think everyone on EDC has one of these. Super handy. Above it is my handy Pilot G2, my personal favorite pen. Ive been using that one for about a year and it shows it with all the chew marks at the top.
Random Skullcandy Headphones.
Things I put in my bag
iFixit Pro Tech Toolkit Probably the best toolkit for computer repair, has literally every single screwdriver tip imaginable, plus some really handy tools for things like phone and tablet repair
2016 Razer Blade A wonderful gaming laptop, that can actually be used in the real world. Is very thin and light considering what's on the inside. Holds a 5ish hour battery life, so I'm not tethered to a wall all the time.
Steam Controller Wonderful for Gaming on the Go. It's a very good controller for PC Gaming, but only for certain people. First person shooters would totally suck on this controller (but then again they suck on every controller), but works very nicely for the games I play.
Logitech MX Master Probably the nicest mouse I have ever used in my life. Fits super well in my rather large hands, and the thumbrest button, speed adaptive scroll wheel, and horizontal scroll in addition to wonderful tracking and bluetooth support make it my favorite mouse of all time.
Cable Matters Thunderbolt Dock Very handy for a laptop that doesnt have Ethernet or VGA output, and an Extra USB port never hurt anyone either.
USB 3 & Micro USB OTG, SD Card and Micro SD card Adapter. Can plug into either standard USB or Micro USB, works as an adapter for a Micro SD or an SD Card. Also useful for a computer that doesnt have an SD card slot.
Microfiber cloth. The Razer Blade is a fingerprint magnet, so this comes in handy quite often.
Except it actually makes sense since there are few USB-C cables which won't fry your device. Also point out that I know apple overchargers for their stuff and yet it's still over twice the price compared to what nintendo is offering.
Let's use 'generics' from amazon to satisfy you:
Top rated result for USB-C to HDMI Adapter: $44
Top rated result for USB C wall charger: $20
So $64. Which is almost exactly what I priced the cost of the USB-C interface at in my post. And for cables which may make your switch go bust.
Basically every Android device made in the past 6 years supports this functionality. It is called "USB On-The-Go". You simply need a readily available adapter to change whatever charging port your phone has into a female USB Type A port.
Android itself has always natively supported USB devices such as keyboards, mice, USB storage devices (flash drives, DVD drives), USB audio devices, etc.. You can even plug in a USB hub and connect multiple devices at once; using your phone/tablet as a quasi-desktop computer if you wanted.
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If your phone has Type-C: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Converts-Technology-Compatible/dp/B01COOQIKU/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+c+otg&qid=1558373604&s=gateway&sr=8-3
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If your Phone as Micro-B: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Adapter-Samsung-Controller-Android/dp/B00N9S9Z0G/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+micro+otg&qid=1558373637&s=gateway&sr=8-3
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They even make ones that allow you to keep charging your phone while having a device plugged into it: https://www.amazon.com/AuviPal-Micro-USB-Cable-Power/dp/B07FY9Z9GD/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=usb+micro+otg&qid=1558373675&s=gateway&sr=8-5
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I I just discovered they even make USB OTG hubs! https://www.amazon.com/Rocketek-Adapter-MacBook-Smartphones-Function/dp/B07MJ61TJV/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+otg+hub&qid=1558374272&s=gateway&sr=8-3
It gets weirder with adapters too. https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Chromebook-ThunderboltTM-3840x2160/dp/B01EXKDRAC
This is a 4k60 display port adapter. It requires Thunderbolt 3 or USB-C with "Display Port Alternative mode" which not all USB-C ports have. Even weirder, some USB-C ports won't drive 4K and some won't drive 4K60. And of course plenty of USB-C ports just won't work at all.
You should get a monitor that support DisplayPort. The u2417h is a good monitor. And you should get a usb c - DisplayPort cable that support DisplayPort alt mode.
Choetech
Plugable
I have used both of them. I have had no problems at all.
I use this one. https://www.amazon.com/Onvian-Splitter-Adapter-Charging-Syncing/dp/B01KX4TKH6/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540401616&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=usb+splitter Gets the job done. Don’t have the extra available ports with a hub though.
From TribalInstincts YouTube page. "UPDATE! There is a USB-C port. It is not obvious at all however it exists and I've verified passthrough."
Bought this for $6 so I could be ready.
*Edit: Not in video, pinned in comments.
Biggest question I have is why two desktops?
I can't speak to the room layout since you need those doors. However, If your monitors have the ability and you use both gaming machines yourself, I personally would do the following:
Sounds like an adapter issue - which is very normal for trying to get anything major working with it.
I somehow doubt you will manage to get 4K FreeSync working through an adapter, as it will probably not relay frame synchronization signals or the handshake will fail, so I'd focus on getting the Oculus working. You will almost certainly just need to try other adapters until you find one that works.
Reviews seem to suggest this one works with Oculus Rift perfectly. And it's cheap.
You absolutely can do this, personally I use this one because I remember it being recommended a lot on this sub. It supports ultra mode(90hz) because it converts the signal to HDMI 2.0 which supports 4k at 60hz instead of just 30hz.
Na klar! (Sure thing!)
Cable Matters USB extension https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Lindy Displayport extension https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00GUSALS2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
In case your Oculus Rift S Controller get stuck or the Passthrough doesn't work/shows snow, plug the cables out of the extension and in again. I had that once, probably because the cable didn't sit well and the USB-energy was cut briefly.
There is hope! I actually have dual 27" dell ultrasharp 1440p displays with only dvi inputs. Bought display port to dvi adaptors. See link below.
Managed to get 1440p 60hz working without any tweaks in Windows 10. Just plugged the adaptors to my 970 and used a proper dvi dual link cable.
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Eyefinity-Technology/dp/B00EDT01TO
I also have two of the same adaptor from Cable Matters as a miniDP version in use with my surface dock. Worked straight away.
Have not tried a direct display port to dvi-d cable though. Most reviews only say that 1080p is supported as they are not active. Bit the bullet on those adaptors as I found reviews said they should work 1440p and was not dissapointed.
The Pimax is DisplayPort, not Display Link. Display Link is a wireless standard, while DisplayPort is a cable. As for converting HDMI to DisplayPort, that is non-trivial. The common passive adapters you see only work the other way around. You'll need to buy an expensive active adapter, as many of the cheaper ones like this aren't capable of the resolution/refresh rate of the Pimax.
It seems not all dvi to hdmi adapters will work, the cable matters works for some people at least. There is also the cable matter display port to hdmi adapter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K0UDYLM
You can also try use a HDMI repeater instead of extension https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GHL72XS/
I personally just use the AmazonBasics hdmi on gtx780ti and usb extension connect to the Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH12O5I
I've been using the following HDMI to DisplayPort adapter with my rift:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K0UDYLM/
Besides the Panda Global adapter, you could try one of the following:
8bitdo G Bros. Wireless Adapter. Lets you use the original GC controller, but it'll be wireless so there'll be a slight increase in input delay. Not sure if it's noticeable but I doubt it, should be like any other wireless controller.
Get a USB C to USB A adapter and plug the original GC adapter in it. A bit more of a mess than the Panda Global adapter but this works just fine. You'd have to get some kind of stand like this if you want to have the Switch standing up, since the USB C adapter is gonna prevent you from using the Switch kickstand.
Onvian USB Splitter Cable Male to 2 Female Adapter USB A Cord 2 Port Hub for Data Charging Syncing (Only one Port for Data) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KX4TKH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_.vrZBbMPB5DAX
There are adapters
Usb c to micro usb
https://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Resistor-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG
Micro usb to usb c
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Nekteck-Connector-Resistor-Supported/dp/B017GSYCP2
I havent used either. Those links are from Google
Unfortunately this isn't going to help you now, but maybe someone else will find it useful. I keep one of these standards compliant adapters in my wallet at all times
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0151RKYBG
I think the danger comes from cables that force a dangerous amount of power to be pushed through, basically forcing it to charge at 3Amps with no regard for if it should be safely done or not. Here is a good article explaining the danger. I picked up a set of these adapters so I can still use my old MicroUSB cables and chargers that are abundant for normal trickle charging. Benson (The Googler who tests and reviews cables for safety) signed off on these adapters. Hope this helps!
Edit: Fixed the adapter link. :)
You would need an active adapter.
My 5-year-old 27" Samsung 1080p TN monitor broke last week, so I went down to Costco and picked up this exact model for $369. I love it. I'll be trying to get a price match on this model, but i had a feeling it'd go on sale for Black Friday since it's been on sale a couple times this month. It's one of the better 40" 4k TVs to use as a monitor, according to: http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/samsung/ku6300.
Input lag and reponse time are pretty low for a TV, but nothing close to a good monitor, but I don't notice any negatives compared to my old monitor. The viewing angles are decent, but not fantastic. My GTX 780 doesn't have HDMI 2.0, so I bought this converter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017BQ8I54. If it introduces any additional lag, I didn't notice.
I don't play twitch FPS games, so take that into consideration. I do play a lot of Skyrim and its great, though I can't power it at 4k, so it's only 1080p for gaming until I upgrade. I use it primarily for web browsing and programming and it does a good job at those tasks.
If it hadn't worked out for me, I probably would've returned it for something else, but I like it a lot. In my opinion, for $269, it's a steal.
Yes, most adapters only support HDMI 1.4
There is an active adapter from Club3D which supports HDMI 2.0. I use it for my Fury X and can enjoy 4K60 on my TV. Costs around 35€.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017BQ8I54/
For direct USB-C to Display Port:
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Thunderbolt-Supports-3840x2160/dp/B01EXKDRAC
Use one of these It works by attaching the third prong to the metal screw I think, I used them in my two prong outlets and it works great. Any hardware store should have them if you're in a hurry.
Can't you just get a USB extension cord and use it with that?
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7S2FRE/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484423659&amp;sr=1-1-spons&amp;keywords=usb+extension+cable&amp;psc=1
Edit: It is prb so big because of the antennas or something. I think someone posted something like this about the xbox dongle a long time ago IIRC
I've read that certain motherboards work better than others for extensions without power. That being said, my Odyssey+ with an Asus H170 motherboard has worked fine with this 6ft HDMI extension and this 6ft USB extension.
Here's what I bought for USB and HDMI, and they work perfectly.
I'm on mobile and too lazy to edit links. Here ya go.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3zhDzbSZCTTRH
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ517VI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RBhDzb3RJK5NV
I use these usb cables
Cable Matters USB to USB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
And this hdmi
AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H91KE?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
If you want to do 10ft extensions on the Rift S you need high quality cables, at least for the usb 3.0. I use Cables Matters usb and displayport cables to do 10ft on my Rift S. Nothing I have seen will allow the Rift S to do longer than 10 feet extensions.
The amazon basics 10ft usb cable would not work for me and I returned it and the cables matter one did. You also need a good usb port, in my case I needed to order an Inateck ktu3fr-4p usb card to have my Rift S work without and black screens or static passthrough problems.
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Extension-Feet/dp/B00L1K1KDE/
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Extension-Black-Feet/dp/B00C7SA21U/
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/
That's probably noise in the laptop that makes it through to the dac. Try one of these( http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Wholesale-Prong-grounding-converter/dp/B000I96AUM )to eliminate the poor grounding in your house. If you have a dac with optical in and your laptop has optical out that would correct the problem.
this The little part at the top you screw it into the outlet
Thousands of homes are still using older wiring from the 1960's and prior with only 2-prong outlets.
I wouldn't call it "unsafe" more like "slightly less safe" than modern 3-prong grounded outlets. You can use adapters like this to use 3-pronged plugs with these outlets.
cheapest fix that's actually worked for me: http://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-Wholesale-Grounding-Converter-30W1-32200/dp/B000I96AUM
HDMI and VGA are incompatible so technically any adapter is 'active'.
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I would buy something like this. In the end buy a well rated product (not necessarily expensive), and ideally something you can return if there is a problem.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cable-Matters-HDMI-Adapter-Black/dp/B00879DM56
So I have actually tried this by connecting it to a projector. This is the converter i bought from Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00879DM56/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
As for audio, I bought this and connected it to some external speakers. This really comes in handy and I would highly recommend it because you can use it with any headphones you want.
http://www.amazon.com/Xbox-One-Stereo-Headset-Adapter/dp/B00IAVDOS6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1414531312&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=xbox++one+adapter+3.5
Usually I just buy Whatever is up on Amazon. I've never heard of the brand but they appear to be the flavor of the month. You might want to spend a few bucks more and get this Cable Matters model that at least comes from a recognizable brand.
I'm running my 2k monitor through the dvi port. My other three monitors are vga that I'm running out of the two mini displayports and one hdmi port. I use Active mini displayport/hdmi to vga adapters for those. I picked those up on ebay and Amazon. It is very important that they are active adapters, it will not work otherwise. To setup I just plugged everything in and enabled the monitors in the Windows Screen Resolution Control Panel.
OP, sadly, you will need one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Active-Adapter-Micro-USB/dp/B00879DM56
It's only $12 bucks, and will fix the issue until you get a new monitor.
From the looks of it, you won't be able to use a dvi to vga adapter.
I have my PS4 going through a projector. 120" screen is amazing :-)
You need HDMI to VGA. I used something similar to this that I got off ebay...
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Cable-Matters-Active-Female-Adapter-Black/dp/B00879DM56/
... which worked fine for xbox 360 but was a pain with ps4. It wouldn't always work and then there were times it would just cut out. Not sure if it was the cheap cable or crappy old projector but it was the push I needed to upgrade mine.
I picked up the BenQ1070 and it just works flawlessly. Its an absolute bargain right now:
http://www.richersounds.com/product/projectors/benq/w1070/benq-w1070
Spare yourself the hours of pain trying to get it working through VGA and pick up a new projector :-)
Something like this:https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Adapter-Windows/dp/B00BPEV1XK/ref=sr_1_9?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540868695&amp;sr=1-9&amp;keywords=usb+to+hdmi+adapter
While USB to HDMI adapters do exist, your machine has USB 2.0 (not USB 3.0) so it is to be determined if it will work well with USB 2.0.
If USB 2.0 is too laggy or doesn't work, t think your best bet will be to use the Thunderbolt or Expresscard slot to add a USB 3.0 port, then connect the HDMI adapter to it.
Here is one HDMI/USB 3.0 adapter: http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters®-SuperSpeed-2048x1152-1920x1200/dp/B00BPEV1XK
This is the one I'm using.
It's connected to the monitor on my right so it's my secondary monitor. There is a slight delay and a slight stutter in motion but for the most part it's not noticeable. After about 5-10 minutes I completely forget it's different than my central monitor. My main issue so far seems to be the the 4GB of RAM on my MacBook Air. I've never had a problem with it before (and I do some computer intensive things like large scale simulation stuff) but if I try to run a fullscreen video on the adapter screen while doing other things on the middle screen the whole system starts to lag noticeably. I don't know if this is an issue with Yosemite in particular or if it is one of the many bugs that the Yosemite version of the displaylink driver has but it's frustrating. What this usually means is that I either need to not put too many things on the right screen or I need to avoid RAM hungry apps (in particular chrome). It's manageable but it's frustrating to have to manage it in the first place.
Also, Netflix won't work in Safari with the driver/adapter installed. You get some error about how one of the displays isn't "hdcp compliant". Oddly enough, it will work in Chrome even without the Silverlight plugin. I suspect the adapter I bought isn't hdcp compliant and I don't know if any of them are. I'm not sure how Chrome is working around this. Magic, I suspect.
I use this DisplayPort and this USB extension without issue. If you need more than 6' you'll probably need active extensions which at least for DisplayPort don't come cheap.
I've been thinking about doing something like this.
As for the HDMI/USB extension, I have an Odyssey and have been using the 6 foot versions of these things with pretty great results so far:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A30FLE2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
However, I've heard that going longer than something like 10 feet requires an active cable, but I don't know the specifics of it.
Here is another picture of the sensor itself:
http://imgur.com/VJgtyLj
Here is the gear that I used:
Light Stands (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNZJLG4/) - These things are great. Very easy to setup, very small base (can be expanded if you want, but the sensors are light and they seem very stable).
Mini Ball Heads (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M07M9D4) - Make for easier adjustment and greater tilting.
USB Cables (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ - 10 ft, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ - 6 ft) - Passive were fine for the two sensors at that length.
Very happy to get these off my desk and higher up. I need to get my third sensor setup as well because the angle that they are pointing makes it tough to detect at the back of my play space (it's about 6 x 9).
Overall very happy with the setup and all the advice I received from this board. This is a really great community.
Powered extensions can, Passive ones usually don't.
This limits how far you can extend it (usually max 6-10ft depending on your HMD & GPU).
I use these with no notable issues with my Dell Visor: 6ft. USB Ext. 6ft. HDMI Ext.
Gonna drop this in here in case someone wants to scour the posts to build a meta-thread on cables and accessories down the road.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01MQD4VYI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 <- This works converting DP -> HDMI for the Lenovo Explorer and the Samsung Odyssey
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01FSDIGYK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 <- this one did not. it wouldn't power up the display.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01LYLO6KS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 <- this HDMI coupler worked with a 6ft HDMI cable UNPOWERED, plugged into the HDMI on the video card (for the Explorer and Odyssey), however when used in conjunction with the working DP->HDMI adapter above, it needed to be powered (through the usb plug on the side) to be able to power up the HMD. I haven't tried longer runs of HDMI with it yet.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 <- This 3m/10ft USB 3.0 Extension cable worked with the Explorer and Odyssey.
HDMI + USB + Power + Cable Sleeve = Good extension cable.
I use this setup on the HMD end of the Linkbox with no issues.
I extend my Rift S with 10 ft cables and I've had no issues.
Displayport:
Cable Matters DisplayPort to DisplayPort Extension Cable (DP to DP Extension Cable) 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L1K1KDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.rJgDbQMDYQVF
USB:
Cable Matters USB to USB Extension Cable (USB 3.0 Extension Cable/USB 3 Extension Cable) in Black 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pLNgDb3ZQ8QMR
Try these:
Displayport:
Cable Matters DisplayPort to DisplayPort Extension Cable (DP to DP Extension Cable) 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L1K1KDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.rJgDbQMDYQVF
USB:
Cable Matters USB to USB Extension Cable (USB 3.0 Extension Cable/USB 3 Extension Cable) in Black 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pLNgDb3ZQ8QMR
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498758225&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=cable+matters+usb+3.0
I tossed this on both of my sensors and works great.
I use these cables:
Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U
AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI Extension Cable - 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H91KE
And these clips on my basement drop ceiling:
Outus 100 Pack Ceiling Hook for Drop Ceilings https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J7HVOQU
Works well for me so far. Haven't been wrenching on my cables/video card like I was (on occasion) before purchasing them.
I bought a DisplayPort/HDMI adapter for my monitor, otherwise I just got a black screen on my Rift with an hourglass icon. I also bought two extension cables:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
These should work https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I use them with my lenovo explorer
I purchased;
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009D378SW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
(various dk2 users recommended passive (copper to copper) couplers for use with HDMI connectors, this is what I found on Amazon)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0194F1MY4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
(this was recommended for users that don't have two hdmi outputs and use a TV for a monitor, etc. The 970gtx typically has a DisplayPort out. This adapter I believe can be used for either the rift or your external tv etc. My importance is for 4k Video with Audio. This is the go to cable. The 4k capability here is very important with the Rift. This cable is verified to work.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
(these or AmazonBasics seem to be the goto USB 3.0 extension cables, DK2/CV1 owners recommend AmazonBasics, but they are all sold out. These are the next best bet. I plan on using this to go through my wall to my Powered USB 3.0 Hubs).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0192LPK5M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
(I bought this as its a reliable brand, 4 port usb POWERED hub, you are going to get better results with USB 3.0 when its powered and extended due to obvious cable length limitations.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019OSCJ7K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
(As the DisplayPort to HDMI was by Club3D, this cable is highly rated and reliably 4k Capable, I figured it was a no brainer).
Hope that helps, I feel confident, through my research I should be able to accomplish what I want. I know USB limits you to 15ft, but in my experience when you use powered USB hubs, you can get beyond that. And worst case scenario, you can convert the USB to Cat5 and go much further distances.
I figured, if something doesn't work, I always have use for adapters and hubs. Again my goal was just to get through my wall and have the PC in another room (less than 20foot overall, but I heard the Rift cables are 9ft?) So the Rift setup would end up being 9ft or so in my living room I think.
I think that's it. Mine is coming Saturday.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Just buy this...
Onvian USB Splitter Cable Male to 2 Female Adapter USB A Cord 2 Port Hub Data Charging Syncing (Only one Port Data) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KX4TKH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Hwq4BbQJ2E907
An even cheaper solution would be to get an OTG adapter. AmazonBasics has it for 539 rupees but you should be able to find off brand ones for much less.
I am using this splitter from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KX4TKH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AVEnDb0G292RN
Bought the Onvian USB splitter cable from Amazon and it allows charging and Tesla cam at the same time.
I've haven't been able to use mine for 30 seconds at a time before the screen goes black and I have to restart. I suspect it may have something to do with my USB 3 ports on my laptop. Also the USB port is on the other side from the DisplayPort meaning I have to stretch the cable to get it to fit which I doubt is helping (for reference my laptop is a MSI GS63 Stealth).
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I have a USB C thunderbolt next to my DisplayPort so I ordered an adapter on Amazon. It should be here tomorrow so I'll post an update after I've tried it.
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Edit: here's the link to the adapter if anyone else wants to try this out
Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!
Here are your smile-ified links:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R96X9DS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
---
^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly&nbsp;bot
USB 3.0:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
HDMI:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Get an Active DisplayPort to HDMI adapter and everything should work.
The card only supports 2 displays off of the internal clock. To use more monitors, they need to be active (aka have an adapter that adds a clock to the line so they work)
I think he’s right. I had the exact same issue you’re describing while using the HDMI port on my Gigabyte G1 390, and it was not resolved until I switched to using a DisplayPort active adapter after which things worked perfectly.
This is the one I got. There are cheaper ones out there, but most of them are passive and won’t support the necessary bandwidth.
In theory making sure it supports 1080p @ 75hz is a bandwidth issue, so you need to get an adapter that claims it supports 4k30 or 4k60, since 4k30 uses roughly the same bandwidth as 1080p120. Even better is to find an adapter that claims 1080p @ 120hz support explicitly.
Maybe one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Supporting-Technology/dp/B00EDT0072/
https://www.amazon.com/CAC-1080-DisplayPort-Adapter-displays-4096x2160/dp/B0775Z57H9
I think these are the same, both made by the same OEM: Bizlink, but not 100% sure.
I don't know anything about the GTX 1070 limits. However, I do use a 4k TV w/HDR as my monitor along with the Oculus. My 1080ti only has the one HDMI so I bought this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDT0072/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Is your adapter active or passive? I wasn't sure if passive would work so I went with the active one.
My Oculus is plugged into my HDMI and this adapter is used for my TV/monitor. One thing I found out is that DisplayPort is VERY limited when it comes to cord length. Anything longer than 16 feet was pretty much unusable for me. Even with my current 16 ft cord, my TV still goes black for a few seconds one or two times a day. Longer than 16 feet and I got black screen pretty much all the time.
I was thinking about trying the adapter on my Oculus (it has a 12 ft cord) but I haven't tested it yet. Let us know if you get yours working.
Buy one of these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDT0072/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is the extension cables I use
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H90L4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH134L6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Lastly, if you still have issues with 90hz even after buying the HDMI adapter then its probably also a power issue and you will need one of these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMJEW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here is my build list formated for reddit
Group | Name | Price | Quantity | Total | Link
--- | --- | --- | --- | --- | ---
Pc | (Everything Inside the case) | | | |
$1,601.62 | Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $347.00 | 1 | $347.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012M8LXQW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Cooler Master Hyper D92 54.8 CFM Rifle Bearing CPU Cooler | $44.80 | 1 | $44.80 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NXLYE4G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Gigabyte GA-Z170X-UD5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $171.49 | 1 | $171.49 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012N6EW6G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory | $129.99 | 1 | $129.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OTJZTZE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $97.99 | 1 | $97.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OAJ412U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Hitachi HDS723020BLA642 | $58.00 | 3 | $174.00 | EBay
| EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card | $459.99 | 1 | $459.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I60OGUK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| EVGA 850W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $90.39 | 1 | $90.39 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KYK1CC6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| XFX AMD Radeon HD 5450 1GB | $29.99 | 2 | $59.98 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005IUW7YE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| PWM Female to 4 x PWM Male Computer Case Fan Splitter | $6.50 | 2 | $13.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DYQRFY6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Sabrent 2.5" SSD & SATA Hard Drive to Desktop 3.5" | $12.99 | 1 | $12.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UN550AC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| 80MM 5000RPM Fan | $0.00 | 2 | $0.00 |
| 92MM 5000RPM Fan | $0.00 | 4 | $0.00 |
Monitors | | | | |
$744.66 | Seiki Pro SM28UTR 28-Inch 4K UHD 3840x2160 | $195.69 | 1 | $195.69 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013XWQF28/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| AOC e2460Sd 24-Inch Widescreen LED Monitor | $142.99 | 3 | $428.97 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C99MUHQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Dell 17" 5:4 | $30.00 | 4 | $120.00 | EBay
Cables | | | | |
$137.77 | Cable Matters Gold Plated DisplayPort to DisplayPort Cable 10 Feet | $11.99 | 1 | $11.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005H3Q5E0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Cable Matters Active DisplayPort to DVI Male to Female Adapter | $19.99 | 2 | $39.98 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDT01TO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| DVI Male to Female 90 Degree Adapter Connector | $4.43 | 3 | $13.29 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008X0ZJZ0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| 15ft 28AWG CL2 Dual Link DVI-D Cable - Black | $10.47 | 3 | $31.41 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&amp;cp_id=10209&amp;cs_id=1020902&amp;p_id=2760&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2
| 15ft Super VGA M/M | $5.69 | 4 | $22.76 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&amp;cp_id=10201&amp;cs_id=1020101&amp;p_id=3622&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2
| 15ft USB 2.0 A Male to A Female Extension | $1.87 | 5 | $9.35 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=103&amp;cp_id=10303&amp;cs_id=1030304&amp;p_id=5435&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2
| 25ft hdmi cable | $8.99 | 1 | $8.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SKVMHI4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Desk Accesseries | | | | |
$263.49 | Perixx PX-5200 Cherry MX Blue | $72.91 | 1 | $72.91 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NY45NCY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Logitech C310 Webcam | $31.93 | 1 | $31.93 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003LVZO8S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Lapel Mics | $6.50 | 1 | $6.50 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DJOIHE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| FingerPrint Reader | $12.58 | 1 | $12.58 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HHHP7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Mouse Pad | $8.99 | 1 | $8.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GB0IF50/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Headset Func HS260 | $79.99 | 1 | $79.99 | https://www.amazon.com/FUnc-FUNC-HS-260-1ST-fUnc-HS-260/dp/B00HH3H83U
| Altec ACS 54 - Speaker | $0.00 | 1 | $0.00 |
| Logitech G700S | $50.59 | 1 | $50.59 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BFOEY3Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Audio Accesseries | | | | |
$58.33 | BEHRINGER MICROAMP HA400 | $24.99 | 1 | $24.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KIPT30/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| 5-Pack 6.35mm Male to 3.5mm Female Adapter | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XAQD4YA/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| 3.5mm Male to 2 x 3.5mm Female Splitter Cable | $3.99 | 1 | $3.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081ZBNI4/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Coupler 3.5 mm Female - 3.5 mm Female Stereo or Mono | $3.93 | 1 | $3.93 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O4N/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| 3 feet Slim 3.5mm Stereo Audio Cable - M/M | $2.71 | 2 | $5.42 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004G3UK5C/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| 3-Feet 3.5mm Stereo Male to Female Extension Cable, 5-Pack | $12.01 | 1 | $12.01 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SWOJLSS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Lighting | | | | |
$86.88 | Studio Designs Swing Arm Lamp Black | $24.75 | 2 | $49.50 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I2S7MHQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Lutron TT-300NLH-BL Credenza Lamp Dimmer Black | $14.83 | 1 | $14.83 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00024BJZE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Triple Outlet Swivel Adapter, White | $3.27 | 1 | $3.27 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HJBENG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Daylight LED Light Bulb 15W | $9.64 | 2 | $19.28 | https://www.walmart.com/ip/Great-Value-GVRLA1850ND-Great-Value-LED-15W-A19-Light-Bulb/38596922
Cable Managment | | | | |
$18.81 | 100 Velcro Ties | $5.00 | 2 | $10.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1Y5O6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| 100 Releasable cable ties | $2.47 | 3 | $7.41 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=105&amp;cp_id=10520&amp;cs_id=1052012&amp;p_id=5795&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2
| Cable Clip nais | $0.70 | 2 | $1.40 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=105&amp;cp_id=10520&amp;cs_id=1052006&amp;p_id=5834&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2
Power | | | | |
$53.13 | Monster MP AV 750 Audio Video PowerCenter | $18.99 | 1 | $18.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004ETIKH8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| AmazonBasics 6-Outlet Surge Protector Power Strip 2-Pack | $12.99 | 1 | $12.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TP1BWMK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| 3 Outlet Single-Tap Wall Tap | $4.00 | 2 | $8.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007XQORTO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| 15ft 16AWG Power Cord Cable | $5.20 | 1 | $5.20 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&amp;cp_id=10228&amp;cs_id=1022801&amp;p_id=5287&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2
| 10ft 18AWG Right Angle Power Cord Cabl | $2.65 | 3 | $7.95 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&amp;cp_id=10228&amp;cs_id=1022809&amp;p_id=7677&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2
Network | | | | |
$33.98 | TP-LINK 8-Port Gigabit Desktop Switch | $22.99 | 1 | $22.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EVGIYG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| 5-Pack, Cat6 Ethernet Patch Cable in Blue 3 Feet | $10.99 | 1 | $10.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C2B81K6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Monitor Mount | | | | |
$215.27 | Arm wall mount | $17.54 | 3 | $52.62 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&amp;cp_id=10828&amp;cs_id=1082821&amp;p_id=12232&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2
| Top wall mount bracket | $4.80 | 4 | $19.20 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&amp;cp_id=10828&amp;cs_id=1082821&amp;p_id=3005&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2
| Center Monitor Mount | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&amp;cp_id=10828&amp;cs_id=1082821&amp;p_id=4564&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2
| 2x8 | $7.47 | 3 | $22.41 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/Top-Choice-Common-2-in-x-8-in-x-10-ft-Actual-1-5-in-x-7-25-in-x-10-ft-Lumber/4082916
| 2x4 | 2.55 | 1 | $2.55 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/Common-2-in-x-4-in-x-8-ft-Actual-1-5-in-x-3-5-in-x-8-ft-Stud/1000074211
| 3" clamp | $5.98 | 6 | $35.88 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-QUICK-GRIP-3-in-Clamp/50214643
| 4" Hinge | $2.81 | 2 | $5.62 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gatehouse-4-in-H-Oil-Rubbed-Bronze-Interior-Exterior-Mortise-Door-Hinge/4772785
| Wood Screws | $9.00 | 1 | $9.00 | Lowes
| Assorted brackets/hardware | $25.00 | 1 | $25.00 | Lowes
| Case Rack Mount | $35.00 | 1 | $35.00 | EBay
Misc | | | | |
$35.97 | Steam Link | $19.99 | 1 | $19.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016XBGWAQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
| Bluetooth Adapter | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | GRANDCOW Bluetooth 4.0 USB Adapter Dongle for Windows 10/ 8.1 / 8/ 7 / Vista / XP
| 19 Key Numeric Keypad | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DJSAAU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This is the one you want:
https://www.amazon.de/Plugable-aktiver-DisplayPort-unterst%C3%BCtzt-Bildschirme/dp/B00S0BWR2K
We've had issues with the cheaper no-name brands and always recommend Plugable to our customers.
Cheers,
Dan
It's this one. HDMI on the mid 2015's doesn't support 4k at 60hz.
No. You will need one of these.
And because VGA does not carry audio, youll need to plug a audio system into the headphone jack or just use headphones to get sound.
I use my OSSC on my 21" apple studio monitor via hdmi to vga adapter here Rankie HDMI to VGA Adapter with 3.5mm Audio Port (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZMV7RL2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GLtPCbYP5B3QG
Works pretty great in line double mode. I can get x3 and x4 working but I feel x2 is best.
Not sure... I don't see a power or audio port, it's hard to say. Only one I can guarantee is this, the exact one I bought.
You could probably use a "headless ghost." It's a little thing that plugs into the HDMI and emulates a monitor. Costs about $20: https://www.headlessghost.com/
Though since it's HDMI (needed for the Rift), you will need something like this to use it on a displayport instead: http://www.amazon.com/Rankie%C2%AE-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter-Converter/dp/B010SDZZ80
edit: this may work too, it's DVI and is cheaper: http://www.amazon.com/CablesOnline-Graphics-Display-Detection-VE-D11/dp/B00N85QYGS/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464043908&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=Display+Emulator
You can pick up a cheap DVI to HDMI converter or DP to HDMI converter to use for your monitor. Try to avoid adapters with Rift if possible as they are more sensitive to signal issues.
https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter-Converter/dp/B010SDZZ80/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498767349&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=dp+to+hdmi+converter
Get this:
https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B010SDZZ80/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
0 issue whit my 2080ti in dport whit this adapter
Depends on how much I'm pushing. If it's just a bunch of songs <=100MB, FTP using Solid Browser + FTP Add-on. Anything larger I'd use the supplied cable with this adapter. Comes in 2 packs, keep one at home and one in my bag.
Check this out
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1wJwqv3rTNmORXz-XJsQaXK1dl8I91V4-eP_sfNVNzbA/edit?usp=sharing
These adapters are really popular:
http://www.amazon.com/Adapter-TechMatte%C2%AE-Convert-Connector-OnePlus/dp/B0151RKYBG/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=sl1&amp;tag=nexususb-20&amp;linkId=522ca83d549142659fc08ddd2629c24e
I just got one through Project Fi. I got these adapters so I could keep using my existing cables, rather than add yet more cables. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0151RKYBG
The TechMatte ones: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0151RKYBG
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HZY20OS/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?qid=1450379263&amp;sr=8-10&amp;pi=AC_SX118_SY170_QL70&amp;keywords=pill+keychain
And
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0151RKYBG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1450379328&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;keywords=techmatte+usb+c&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41TvPsO6cFL&amp;ref=plSrch
Sorry to get your hopes up for a single solution. There's room in the capsule for the adapter and a folded up $20 bill. American, don't know if other monies will fit.
How about using this Benson-approved adapter with your current USB cable?
Anything with DisplayPort plus an external DisplayPort to HDMI 2.0 converter, https://www.amazon.com/Club3D-Displayport-1-2-HDMI-CAC-1070/dp/B017BQ8I54/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485475001&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=displayport+1.2+hdmi+2.0, there are no current CPUs with integrated graphics that can drive HDMI 2.0 directly, so you need a converter either on board or separately, and on board is pretty rare.
Yes, you can convert DP1.2 to HDMI 2.0 using an adapter like this one.
The problem is converting HDMI 2.0 to DP1.2. No adapters exist that do that. We asked Club3D about it, and they dont see a demand for that type of adapter so they have no made one.
Have you looked into your TV settings and check if you have a SST and MST setting? May at least help with the chopping.
But unfortunately, it does appear all R7's have 4k support BUT not 4k@60hz with that high of a resolution. For one, you need a 2.0 HDMI to run 4k@60, but your card does not support 2.0 HDMI in this way.
I would upgrade GPU that is designed to run 4k@60 3840 × 2160 all on its own.
or try as another said:
https://www.amazon.com/Club3D-Displayport-1-2-HDMI-CAC-1070/dp/B017BQ8I54
I know you said not TVs but this is what I have and it is awesome 50” Samsung MU6300. Does the 4K at 60hz.
I had to buy this display port to hdmi: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017BQ8I54
And this HDMI cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CRA11IU
I needed both of these for the hackintosh to display in 4K . Do not try to buy other cables unless you are sure they support 4K.
Also you may need to tweak the settings. See this guide:
https://medium.com/@keredson/using-the-samsung-mu6300-40-4k-tv-as-a-computer-monitor-8582390bb824
I use https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Multiport-Thunderbolt-Compatible/dp/B01C316EIK/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487708246&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=usb+c+hdmi+vga Only downside is no charging.
and
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AUKU1OO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
If I just need a keyboard/mouse.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C316EIK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I use this for Ethernet, VGA, and an extra USB port. Does the trick and is pretty good price for what it is.
I used this USB to type C adapter connect it to the charging port of the switch and your all good to go!!it reads everything perfectly no lag.
Anker USB-C to USB 3.1 Adapter,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01COOQIKU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
you could buy a usb c to usb a adapter i guess?
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Converts-Technology-Compatible/dp/B01COOQIKU/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_tr_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=6MHQ3WMEMGTY0VXXB3VG
You'll need a USB-C to USB-A adapter (I used this one from https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01COOQIKU/) to connect up the Vive n Chill to the top USB-C port of the Pimax. I also had to clip some plastic off of at the base of the connectors to give the adapter cable enough flex to bend out the way. If you're using the 3D printed strap adapter, you can unscrew the plastic housing of the Vive n Chill's power switch to pass it through the top strap, and use some cable ties to hold the USB-A connector and Vive n Chill power switch in place.
https://puu.sh/CJ5pz/199d629c48.jpg
https://puu.sh/CJ5pE/fe725f4674.jpg
https://puu.sh/CJ5pN/6618c866cd.jpg
You could give one of these a shot. I've used one to use a mouse on my android phone.
Yes, through a USB-C OTG cable.
Here's a link of one on sale through Amazon for $9.99. There are also many others available, prices vary.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01COOQIKU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500366547&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=usb+c+otg+cable&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31u9EgABWmL&amp;ref=plSrch
Acer's own page for the Aspire V Nitro isn't correct, which is really annoying. According to UltraBook Review, the Acer Aspire Nitro VN7-#93G (5 for 15", 7 for 17") DOES have Thunderbolt 3.
Get a Thunderbolt 3 to DisplayPort cable and you'll be fine.
USB-C to DisplayPort Adapter Cable. Gives the ability to have an external 4k monitor @60 Hz.
9560 comes with HDMI 1.4. Only allowing 4k @ 30Hz.
Amazon Basics
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYXVE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_doYzCb04S3B5Y
Inexpensive and great item so far.
No Problem man! The reason why I was able to get into detail very well is because I currently have my Xbox 360 and PS3 hooked into my desktop setup via VGA (xbox 360) and DVI (using a DVI to HDMI adapter for the PS3)
I would recommend watching these two techquickies videos to get up-to-date with what the monitors standards are, and screen Resolutions
HDMI, DisplayPort, VGA, and DVI as Fast As Possible
Resolution - Not Just a Number as Fast As Possible
The EASIEST option is to get a new computer monitor that has HDMI with Speakers (kind of like this one, look for a screen that has all these ports on it) for that PS4 upgrade that you are looking for, otherwise you will be looking for HDMI to VGA adapters that may work but I have never used one before so I can't guarantee if it will work with the ps4.
Now with the easiest option out of the way, Gaming on a Computer screen with an Xbox 360 is kind of simple. Buy an Xbox 360 VGA cable off of amazon or at local game store. Make sure you get a RCA to 3.5 adapter for the audio, because the next part gets interesting. If you are using with your computer at the desk all you have to do is plug the 3.5 adapter into your PC's Line-In port which is the blue plug port, then after its plugged-in go to your pc and go to your pc sound icon in the lower right hand corner and left click it and click on the playback devices, then click on to the line in icon and click on the properties button and that will bring out the line-in properties window, click on the listen tab and the check mark the listen to this device box and you should have sound coming through your speakers while having it hooked into your pc. You will have to have you PC running to have this work. If that is too much get this adapter (A) and this Adapter(B) and plug the green wire plug from the speaker into Adapter B and and one end from Adapter B into the computer and the other end into Adapter A, if you go this route you will not need the very first RCA to 3.5 adapter that i gave you.
Now with the PS4 use this adapter (can't guarantee if it will work) and Plug the Green cord into the audio in, and I think you will have to power it via USB. and make sure you have a VGA cable to plug into the adapter and to the screen. Make sure you switch the screen source from DVI to VGA when gaming, then back for PC use
TL:DR Get a new monitor with an HDMI, DVI, and VGA port that has speakers built in or you will have to follow the steps that I provided up to get an VGA port to work with an xbox 360 and MAYBE a PS4.
Hopefully this helps, and all the buy links that i have provided are for Amazon UK, and I believe most tech store will have most of these items as well.
It's the video input port. When you think about digital vs. analog data signals, VGA is the old, outdated analog. Meaning that since your 1070 will likely only have digital video out ports, you will have to buy an adapter of some sort, and the picture quality may not be as crisp as you are used to with digital signals, although that may depend more on monitor and adapter quality. Once it's a secondary monitor it won't really matter though. It's so cheap I think you'll be fine.
Rankie HDMI to VGA Adapter with... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00ZMV7RL2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
A Mini-DP to VGA converter like this:
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?p_id=12743
Or a HDMI to VGA converter like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZMV7RL2
I have used the one posted by /u/neurofluxation since the Pi 1B days. It works well.
The new ones have an audio out, and are only a few dollars more.
https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-Gold-Plated-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00ZMV7RL2/ref=sr_1_3
Something like this
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00ZMV7RL2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_eqGozb55J9C4A
Mini-DisplayPort to VGA Adapter from Apple. You'll need a VGA cable (6ft) as well.
or
HDMI to VGA adapter. Still need a VGA as well. You can go up to 50ft.
A little late to the party, but:
Active DVI to VGA
HDMI to VGA (I have this one and it works great)
I'd start looking on Craigslist, asking around, and checking thrify stores for a better monitor.
I made my Roku work with an old TV with one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-Gold-Plated-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00ZMV7RL2/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480448278&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=hdmi+to+vga+converter
Had to adapt the 3.5mm audio int rca cable to get the sound in, but it worked like a charm!
A more expensive adapter since it has to convert an analog signal to a digital signal, similar to the conversion that had to happen when the older TV signals were converted to digital a few years ago.
Passive adapters just change the head of the connector.
https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-Gold-Plated-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00ZMV7RL2/
Get this instead. This converts HDMI to VGA, and has a headphone jack on it to output sound with a separate cord. It also requires power from USB which you can plug into the USB on your PS3 for that.
https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-Gold-Plated-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00ZMV7RL2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1502103258&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=HDMI+to+VGA+adapter
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Input-Output-Adapter-Cable/dp/B014I8UQJY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501734291&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=hdmi+to+dvi+adapter
Or
https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-Gold-Plated-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00ZMV7RL2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501734325&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=hdmi+to+vga+adapter
Take your pick.
I was worried about that as well since I din't have a monitor with speakers/HDMI in. So I picked this thing up and it works fantastically.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZMV7RL2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Edit: Although it is just now occurring to me that this device has not amplification for sound..... So whatever volume the Switch produces is the only volume that is available.... :/
i was thinking in using something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ZMV7RL2/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A1RI0YHZ8J2HZU idk if it will work
I use this one to use my hdmi xbox with my vga projector. I've found that depending on the device, the audio extractor works well. Some devices don't send enough power, hence the usb power to amplify the signal. As far as audio quality goes it's pretty good, though I wouldn't recommend using it with ultra high end speakers as you'll definitely notice the imperfections there but for cheaper and lower end speakers it works well.
I know you don't need VGA, but my experience with this and other HDMI audio extractors is that they work well but sometimes need amplification, depending on the source and speakers.
This is the one I bought.
This is what I use and it works great. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ZMV7RL2
I don't believe the pi will output the analog part of the DVI-I that is needed for the VGA conversion so an active adapter like this is needed.
Use a display port to HDMI adapter. Something like: http://www.amazon.com/Rankie%C2%AE-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter-Converter/dp/B010SDZZ80/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465014903&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=display+port+hdmi+adapter
HDMI can do far longer runs than DP anyway.
It's okay ;)
Yeah that's what you'll need.
Here is a cheaper one by the way.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rankie-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter-Female/dp/B010SDZZ80/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463608077&amp;sr=1-1-fkmr0&amp;keywords=ctive+DisplayPort+to+HDMI+Adapter
I don't know if that will work. And I know you said you're strapped for cash, but the DisplayPort > HDMI adapter is about ten bucks. That would do what you'd want.
Buy this DisplayPort adapter and plug your monitor into it.
Rankie DisplayPort (DP) to HDMI Adapter, 4K Resolution Ready Converter with Audio, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010SDZZ80/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TwJwCb22M0Q1F
I'm thinking you have to buy a displayport to hdmi converter and plug the dongle into that. /u/ggodin - can you confirm?
If you have any old micro USB cables around, go to Amazon and order this:
http://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Resistor-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG
They are tiny and turn commonly available cables into ones that can charge your 5X -- not at the very highest rate but still totally usable.
Good to have, since USB-C is still not very common in many places.
No, but USB-C != USB 3.1. Which means if you are currently using USB OTG for your devices that connect to your phone, getting a USB C to otg adapter like this would work: http://www.amazon.com/Type-C-Cable-quality-Female-Black/dp/B00SHM4HS4 In your post, you mentioned that your most of your devices charge via USB 2.0 (I assume you mean USB micro). In that case, a simple adapter should be able to convert your USB micro charger to USB C (although quick charge would depend on what phone you got): http://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Resistor-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG
Sorry for reviving an old thread, but I found this thread because I was looking up why my Corsair Voyager Go with a Micro-USB-to-USB-C Converter wouldn't work. I am reading comments below where you're able to use an OTG cable with a regular flash drive... I'm just curious why my pairing wouldn't. Any insight would be greatly educational, so thank you in advance!
huh. I'm having exactly the same problem. Started a few weeks ago after I used an A-C adapter. Won't charge from any native USB-C source. I need to call Google one of these days, I haven't bothered yet.
N6P.
I've got a weird issue.
I bought this micro->C adapter and this portable battery at the same time. Plugged in the C-C cord, charged my phone perfectly. I plug in the micro->C adaptor on a micro cord, charges fine. I plugged into my factory charger...nothing. This elicited a nice "wtf?" moment. But I was going out of town, so I used the micro cord and the adapter, worked fine during the trip.
Got home. Factory charger still isn't working. I flip the C-C cord around, and the charging icon quickly flips between lightning bolt and nothing. Another "WTF?" moment.
Well, maybe the cord went bad or something. Grab this charger and a new C-C cord. New charger and new cord doesn't charge at all. New cord on factory charger doesn't charge at all. Old cord on new charger doesn't charge at all.
Take it out to the car. 2.4A type C, no charging at all.
3 different USB-A chargers charge it fine with the micro-C adapter on several different A-micro cords, including the new Anker charger. The factory A-C cord does work fine.
What
The
Fuck
?
Did the micro->C adapter break something? And if so, why does the phone still charge fine when using it? Anything that would be rapid charging (>2.1A) fails completely. Anything not rapid charging works fine. RMA time?
http://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Resistor-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1457249252&amp;sr=8-1-spell&amp;keywords=techmate+usb-c
If you're looking for an adapter to use old micro-usb cables with a 5x, these are 2 for $10 and are "Benson approved" http://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Upgraded-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG
If you're looking for the opposite adapter, I'm not sure they exist.
As a 6P owner, I'ma little biased but all that put aside, I came from a Note 3 so I had the same gripes as you: No expandable storage, no removable battery, etc...Here my solutions to those problems. For the most part the 6P battery will get me through a day of heavy use pretty easily (listening to spotify, watching videos, texting, emailing and whatnot). Just in case I always carry around a portable power bank. As for expandable storage, I would like to point out with Google's photo app, you receive unlimted storage for high quality photos, however, don't quote me on this, but at some point I believe past 1080P it starts to eat into a 10GB limit. I advise using a USB stick for external storage, it's small, portable, and overall very convenient. Best of luck making your decision! It's a tough one! If you have any questions about the 6P just let me know!
Edit: If you are strictly looking just to offload files to get more storage and not transfer them to a computer via usb, this Dongle gives you more storage and it costs less than the previous link. If you do want to move pictures and videos, you can always buy an adapter.
The Nexus 6P has a huge battery, I was never anywhere close to running out of juice during that 8-hour event with all the video I was shooting.
Just to be safe though, in situations like this were draining my phone is a possibility I just carry a really thin battery bank in my pocket. Also, the peace of mind let's me go nuts and use my phone as much as I want, which is nice.
I use this one, along with a tiny micro usb to USB-C adapter I stick in my wallet.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LRK8HJ8?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0151RKYBG?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
I don't see any, if you currently have USB wall outlets I'd just buy some of the Benson approved adapters http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0151RKYBG
yes, you can get 2 proper spec'd type C to MicroUSB adapter off amazon for $8. i keep one in my wallet and one in my bookbag for my 6P, i've seen people put them on keychains too.
Link: https://amzn.com/B0151RKYBG
As another commenter said, just use a USB-A to C cable, or an adapter like this one: https://amzn.com/B0151RKYBG
You're severely limiting your options by sticking only to batteries that have USB Type-C ports. Once you decide you're willing to use a tiny adapter or a different cable, it will blow your options wide open.
Here's a good battery for $21.99 currently: https://amzn.com/B00M8YXV1Q
Slightly older version that I use for $12.99: https://amzn.com/B005X1Y7I2
EDIT: OP should ignore my comment since I see that he/she now specified "no adapter", but I'll leave my comment here for anyone else.
Why can't you use an adapter like this?
You should be able to display 4k@60hz over DP 1.2 using the Club3D adapter assuming your TV supports it:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017BQ8I54/
It works fine with my 390 and Hisense H8C. Lighter/older games get 60fps no problem at 4k. Just make sure you have a good HDMI cable, I had a cheap one laying around and it kept cutting out.
Does it have a displayport output? If so, one of these will get you 60fps at 4k. I have mine set up in crossfire and it's great for most older games. New games I still play at a lower resolution.
Club3D Displayport 1.2 to HDMI 2.0 UHD (CAC-1070) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017BQ8I54/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sAgzxbAF8ZJGF
If you have a mini displayport output, get this instead.
Club3D Mini Displayport 1.2 to HDMI 2.0 UHD (CAC-1170) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017BQCUGW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vDgzxb3FFKG8K
Using HDMI 5 I don't get any video until windows boot, have to switch to 4 or elsewhere to access my bios. Try putting the image settings on computer or gaming also.
The TV can but the GPU can't, you'll need the adapter(https://www.amazon.com/Club3D-Displayport-1-2-HDMI-CAC-1070/dp/B017BQ8I54/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469233801&amp;sr=8-9&amp;keywords=4k+60hz+hdmi+dp) or a AMD 400 series or 900 or higher series for Nvdia.
Should still work though mine did, what resolution is windows set at?
No, they "repeat" HDCP so it should work fine. At least the good ones do.
(Ignore that price gouge because they're seemingly out of stock).
https://www.amazon.com/Club3D-Displayport-1-2-HDMI-CAC-1070/dp/B017BQ8I54/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467765206&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=club3d+displayport+1.2+to+hdmi+2.0+uhd
Okay, got it. DisplayPort 1.2 and HDMi 2.0 both support 3440x1440 at 100 Hz, so you have some options.
Something like this looks like it would work pretty well. It looks like only the mini Displayport version is DP 1.2 though.
Otherwise you could go for an HDMi 2.0 switch like this and then pair it with some adapters like this.
Hier hol dir diesen Adapter für 35€, mit dem müsste es dann gehen.
Vielleicht hat deine Grafikkarte aber auch nur mini Displayport, dann musst du nach nem anderen Adapter suchen.
Und anscheinend muss man dann noch manuell von 30 auf 60 Hz umstellen.
As long as you get a Mini Displayport Adapter that terminates to HDMI 2.0 you'll be fine.
Example: https://www.amazon.com/Club3D-Displayport-1-2-HDMI-CAC-1070/dp/B017BQ8I54
Mit so einem Adapter bekommst du aber meist nur 4k@30Hz zusammen. Zurzeit kenn ich nur den Adapter von Club 3D, der auch wirklich 4k@60Hz liefert, da er ein displayport zu hmdi 2.0 adapter ist.
I use this one
Used this to connect my 4K UHD TV and my 1440p 144hz. Didn't have much issues.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017BQ8I54/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fuB0Db6M44MMC
Haven't used these in a while since now I only just use my Tv.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017BQ8I54/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_1
For those wanting a regular Displayport connection. These adapters will allow your to keep 4:4:4 @60hz.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017BQ8I54/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473146320&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=club3d+displayport+1.2+to+hdmi+2.0&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41fnH-DjnGL&amp;ref=plSrch
Club3d Displayport 1.2 to HDMI 2.0. Works great!
Reading up on the R9 290 it looks like it can't actually output 4k over HDMI, only the Displayport. Best way to make it work would be a an Displayport 1.2 to HDMI 2.0 adapter like this one on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017BQ8I54/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_1_r
If you don't get that exact one, make sure to get one that is an "Active Adapter"
If you are using a splitter you have only one HDMI connection and can have only one display on it. You can have two screens but since they are one signal split into two they'll show the same thing. If you have another display port in your laptop (hdmi/dvi/vga) you can plug that into the second monitor.
If your laptop has USB C you can get a graphics adapter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Multiport-Thunderbolt-Compatible/dp/B01C316EIK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483866212&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+c+video
That'll let you use the second monitor.
Edit: My bad, I didn't see that there were regular USB 3.0 HDMI adapters: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H91BQ7Y?psc=1
https://www.amazon.de/Cable-Matters-Multiport-Thunderbolt-Port-Kompatibel/dp/B01C316EIK
this is the first result on Amazon (Germany)... just search for usb type c to ethernet or something like that on the Amazon page of your country, I am sure you will find something
This doesn’t have 3 USB ports, but here is what I use for my XPS 15 and it works great
Cable Matters USB-C Multiport Adapter with 4K HDMI or VGA Video, USB 3.0 and Gigabit Ethernet (Thunderbolt 3 Port Compatible) in Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C316EIK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_V7HhAbM4WT3S8
They made a USB-C to HDMI that is proprietary? Wouldn't that in some way make it either not USB-C or not HDMI?
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01C316EIK?gclid=CPuKkcz_htMCFZeNswodJQoFyw
If that is a second gen vNitro get this
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Thunderbolt-Compatible-Incompatible/dp/B01C316EIK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499646563&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=cable+matters+type+c
you only have to hook up power and the type C adapter, makes hooking up and taking with a lot faster and easier, you can get a type c extender and then you can hide the adapter behind your desk.
It might be the adapter itself. I have this one and it works perfectly.
If it's the newest model with the USB-c ports, this is an adapter I recommend. Also look for other adapters that meet your needs.
4 port adapter
Dell charges about the same (list price $75) for their USB-C to HDMI adapter. Then factor in the HDMI and AC adapter, along with any snapping mechanics for the docking of the Switch itself and they're about equivalent.
You could go for the cheaper one at $45 or [even the $26 one] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01GKSPMCQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485170502&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=usb+c+to+hdmi&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31nWVKLFDiL&amp;ref=plSrch) but you're losing some quality assurance here. Remember these need to be 100% reliable, even with 5 year olds treating them like the rest of their toys.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01C316EIK/ref=pd_aw_sbs_147_1?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41Ma7eXrP8L&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL390_SR390%2C390_&amp;refRID=1SAB9MSA9G957ZE2TQW8
I love.
The display was the biggest upgrade for me. The display brightness is higher, the high PPI and amazing viewing angles are great, and the whole macOS UI scales well with the resolution.
The larger trackpad is useful when paired with BetterTouchTool. I use the extra real estate space for more complicated gestures. Pressing top left or right to switch tabs for example. The trackpad doesn't click anymore; it's force-touch now with audio feedback but you'll get use to it. I prefer the new trackpad because I don't actually have to use much force to click anymore.
The keyboard is definitely different from the older model. The key travel isn't nearly as large but it is larger than the first generation butterfly keyboard. Eventually I got use to it and can switch between a regular keyboard and the new one just fine. Personally, I like the new one for a few reasons: the keys don't feel as mushy and the whole platform depress uniformly no matter where you press.
The weight, or lack thereof, is a huge bonus. I can definitely feel the difference on my back. The 2011 was way heavier by comparison.
The USB-C situation isn't a big inconvenient for me. I switched to using a USB-C to microUSB for remote play so that isn't an issue. For all other USB-A or HDMI/VGA uses, I got this.
Finally, battery life and software stability are great. I never had an issue with them. The last time I fully powered my Macbook off was 2 months ago. It's been on and off the charger with no restart since. I wake it each morning for work and put it to sleep by closing the lid each night. Leave it in my backpack overnight and use it again in the morning.
So, to reiterate. I love it. For me, the price was worth it.
I have this adapter; HDMI, VGA Video, USB 3.0 and Gigabit Ethernet: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C316EIK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I use this for my 9350, works great. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C316EIK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
The thing I would think of here is that the USB A to C cable you have is only meant for the USB A to be host (Computer) and USB C to be client (Phone) for transferring data between computer and phone or etc. and does not have the correct wiring to have USB C be the host and the linkbox to be client.
The way this works is there is a resistor placed the CC pin/wire on the USB-C connector and ground, essentially creating a tiny short, that tells whatever the USB-C is connected to, "Hey, you're the host of this connection". Since this cable is probably meant to charge phones etc. it does not have that resistor/short built in. That connection is what causes the usb-C side device to go ahead and power the +5v connection TO the other end of the cable, in this case, the USB-A (USB 3) end of the cable. Therefore, your linkbox, and in turn, Vive, is not currently getting any power via USB - which, yes, the Vive does have it's own power cable, but it surely also uses the USB 5v for some specific stuff on the Vive.
Getting a USB-C OTG adapter should solve your problems, you would use this and then plug the HTC Vive's original USB cable, coming out of the link box, in to this. https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Converts-Technology-Compatible/dp/B01COOQIKU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511415846&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb-c+otg
TL;DR Your cable is meant to charge phones/connect phones to PC, whatever is on the USB-C side is the "Accessory". Since you are using the USB-C plug on the PC side, the Vive is the "Host" and the PC is the "Accessory". USB cables only go "one way", in a sense. Getting a USB-C OTG adapter SHOULD work, but don't blame me if this doesn't work!
There is also a 7500mah zerolemon case for the 3/3t for around $45
but you could also buy a 20,000 mah battery pack fairly cheap
And if you want to connect to a flash drive one of these should work ($10) Anker USB-C to USB A Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01COOQIKU/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_.r8-zbGRJG15T
They look decent, I have https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01COOQIKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JHAnDb0FB4H75 because good experience with Anker
Anker USB-C to USB 3.1 Adapter, Converts USB-C Female into USB-A Female, Uses USB OTG Technology, Compatible with Samsung Galaxy Note 8, S8 S8+ S9, iPad Pro 2018, Nexus 6P 5X, LG V20 G5 and more https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01COOQIKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PV2GDb5A81M9M
The cable you linked to is just an adapter. You need a USB OTG cable. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01COOQIKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_DguXBbG6KG58E
Your cable will allow you to plug USB devices into a computer with a mini-c port, but for anything to work with a phone, you have to get something that specifically says it has USB OTG.
As for drivers, nearly any phone should support it. However, some phones might not work with controllers. My phone doesn't work with gamepads over USB, even though it does work with keyboards, mice, and flash drives. Most phones should work with gamepads though.
EDIT: It's possible this is incorrect based on the other response that all USB-C cables support OTG. I would suggest testing other USB devices with this cable. If it works with a keyboard, mouse, or flash drive, but not a gamepad, you might be out of luck. I can't find if your phone supports OTG.
Probably depends on the case, but the one that comes with the Google Pixel fits perfectly with the Spigen neo hybrid. http://i.imgur.com/YKIbhU3.png
I can't seem to find any exactly like it online though. Maybe one like this with the smaller C end casing?
> What works better, plugging in directly from camera to phone, or just the SD card in an adapter to phone?
I can't find a clear answer as to if Android will support PTP/MTP over USB-OTG. I know that connecting the SD card via an adapter will work, but I wouldn't be confident in saying connecting the camera directly would work.
> I'd rather not mess with the SD card coming in and out often if so, but, any suggestions?
I doubt that this would be the point of failure for your camera, but I certainly understand the concern.
> Will any mini-usb to USB-C cable work, then?
No, you specifically need an OTG cable as this has an extra pin that tells the phone to function as a master device. I would recommend picking up a standard USB-C to USB-A OTG Cable and then using a USB-A to Micro B cable from there if you wanted to try it.
Again, I think there's a good chance it won't work, but the USB-C OTG cable will work for you either way so you can try it with the camera and use an SD card adapter if it does not work.
Something like this should work:
https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Adapter-SuperSpeed-MacBook-Samsung/dp/B00W98IJ0O#customerReviews
Keep in mind that space WILL be an issue on a laptop. You may not be able to fit two adapters next to each other, so you might be better off with a short extension adapter that has a smaller plug.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01COOQIKU/ref=psdc_3015402011_t2_B00W98IJ0O
No, but I got myself a USB-C to USB 3.0 dongle that works for all my flashdrives (FAT32 not NTFS)
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Converts-Technology-Compatible-ChromeBook/dp/B01COOQIKU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478629810&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Anker+USB-C+to+USB+3.1+Adapter%2C+Converts+USB-C+Female+into+USB-A+Female%2C+Uses+USB+OTG+Technology%2C+Compatible+with+Nexus+5X+and+6P%2C+%282015%29+MacBook%2C+ChromeBook+Pixel+and+more
What kind of phone do you have?
If it is an Android, you can use a USB OTG cable Micro USB or USB C and plug in any mouse.
A cursor will show up on the screen and you can click and drag as if the cursor were your finger.
I'm pretty sure they work on anything with a USB port. I use them on my Chromebook sometimes. The only thing is, you have to give up the software on anything but a Windows machine (and maybe Mac? Don't know).
Edit: Just ordered this to see if it will work with my phone (Pixel).
For HDMI I have one of these and it's great: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01MYUCWOK
For USB 3, I already owned a hub/ethernet dongle combo: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00PC0J1VC
To make it work with USB-C I bought a USB A -> USB C converter: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01COOQIKU
All of these work fine and are considerably cheaper than the Apple alternatives. Anker seem to be a good company when it comes to dongles.
I got a usb-c to usb 3.1 adapter for the headset and I dont have this problem any more. Was thinking maybe more available power on the usb-c slot would help, but its probably some other reason it actually works.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01COOQIKU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Plugable USB-C to DisplayPort Adapter Cable (6'/1.8m) for 2016 / 2017 MacBook Pro, MacBook Retina 2015 / 2016, Chromebook Pixel, Thunderbolt 3 & More (Supports 4K / UHD Displays up to 3840x2160@60Hz) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EXKDRAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qTF-zb5KQF3WG
The easiest way is just to get two USB-C to DisplayPort cables, such as these.
Obviously I’m assuming your new monitors have DisplayPort. You didn’t specify a model number so I couldn’t verify.
The USB-C connector should support display port alt mode. Using a cable similar to below it will work just like a mini displayport.
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Thunderbolt-Supports-3840x2160/dp/B01EXKDRAC
Pick whichever one you like and grab one of these
Apple's "Thunderbolt 3 (USB-C) to Thunderbolt 2" adapter states on Apple's web site that it will not work for DisplayPort, it can only be used for Thunderbolt accessories.
"DisplayPort: This display requires a third-party USB-C to DisplayPort adapter. The Thunderbolt 3 (USB-C) to Thunderbolt 2 Adapter doesn't support this display." from https://support.apple.com/en-nz/HT207443
Which was the other adapter you used? Make sure it says USB-C to DisplayPort, even better if it says for MacBook or MacBook Pro, this one for example https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-1-8m-Chromebook-Thunderbolt/dp/B01EXKDRAC
USB-C supports DisplayPort natively even without thunderbolt
As far as I can tell, the Ultrafine 4K is using Displayport Alt Mode over USB-C rather than Thunderbolt.
You could try connecting to a display using a USB-C to Displayport cable: https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-1-8m-Chromebook-Thunderbolt/dp/B01EXKDRAC
If it works you could connect both monitors directly to an eGPU e.g. a GTX 1050 with multiple Displayports.
Yes, there is a TB3 port that you can use to connect to a displayport monitor so you can get 144hz if you want. I did it with a cable from amazon
Works great, now I did have some difficulty getting my games to get up to that many FPS, but I did manage it eventually with enough tweaking.
I currently connect to two relatively older Dell 1080p monitors that only have DisplayPort and VGA out. So I've got two DP to USB-C cables into my MBP + another USB-C for power.
Can't believe that support just did dock sales on you.
You have three videos output ports on Alienware 15 r3. From specs page - 3. Mini-Display Port 1.2 (certified) Output | 4. HDMI 2.0 Output | 5. Thunderbolt™ 3 Port (USB Type-C™ with support for SuperSpeed USB 10Gbps, 40Gbps Thunderbolt, and DisplayPort). One monitor hdmi to hdmi. Another 4k - depends on the input - usb-c to usb-c or usb-c to displayport (monitor). It's straightforward cable.
E. G.
I have on my 4k (no dock) monitors setup @60Hz
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EXKDRAC
http://i.dell.com/sites/imagecontent/products/PublishingImages/alienware-15-laptop/CS1703G0018_aw_laptop_alienware15_gaming_pdp_polaris_module9.jpg
I would get the smaller one. Better quality display, plus it is "retina" density so it will match your built-in monitor better. A 27" 4K monitor is sort of a weird in-between resolution: not really dense enough for retina mode, but too dense for normal display mode. But there is also something to be said for "bigger is better", especially if you want to watch movies or don't care so much about retina resolution.
If you're willing to forgo USB-C charging there are some other cheaper models you could look at. E.g. Dell has a decent 24" 4K screen for around 350 USD. You would need a USB-C to DisplayPort cable to make that work.
USB-C supports display port natively. Buy yourself a USBC -> display port cable, something like this. Do not use an HDMi splitter, bad idea. I’m not even sure it would even work.
Forget the USB-C dongle you have. Connect the MBP directly to the monitor with a cable like this.
Yea for the monitor I just use a USB-C to DisplayPort cable.
I have this TB3 to displayport cable that works well: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EXKDRAC/. If both of your monitors support displayport 1.2 you will be able to daisy chain the monitors. That way you only need to plug in one cable to the laptop and will be cheaper than a splitter.
This is my setup (2016 13" non-TB rMBP, 1080p monitor, 1440p/4k monitor).
I just use a Hootoo USB-C adapter for the 1080p one (HDMI), then a USB-C to DisplayPort cable (for 60hz on 4k).
I even added an additional USB hub, so I have 6 usable USB slots.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EXKDRAC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019R9ILTG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Samsung MUF-32AB/AM FIT Plus 32GB - 200MB/s USB 3.1 Flash Drive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D7SX9NS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_m4PwDbCE5QG8W
This guy.
I used to use a Kingston Datatraveler, but it died within about the first 2-3 weeks of ownership. This Samsung one has been going much longer.
If/when this one becomes insufficient then I'm going to flip to a TeslaUSB Raspberry Pi implementation.
I also bought one of these AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB 3.1 Gen1 Female Adapter Cable - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYXVE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_SHUIlTuORLyN8 so I could plug the drive directly in to my phone and use this app https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.snailboat.teslacamreviewer to review the footage on my phone.
I then delete the videos I don't like/want. If I want to keep the video I either copy it to my phone, or upload it directly to my OneDrive, via the phone, so I can use a desktop app to fiddle with it.
There are different accessories I have bought and has made my experience better.
Cable management: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073P7GJNP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Audio upgrade:
- Cheap (For just exploring around and watching videos) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006B486K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Expensive (Mainly for playing games and having a mic instead of the built in mic since it's buggy on the headset) - https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Flight-Detachable-Comfortable/dp/B077ZGRY9V/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3D960PSK6KV35&keywords=hyperx+cloud+flight&qid=1564661727&s=electronics&sprefix=hyperx+cloud+%2Celectronics%2C151&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExRkdWSElOUU5JREhTJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDYwNzUxMVZSTjVPU1pFS0Y1USZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMTEwOTk2MVgyMkUwMjdWRlo1MyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
&#x200B;
Controller grips:
These arrive today so I can't say if they are good or bad yet but I've only heard good - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VCF9P73/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
I've had these for awhile and they work great (if you have larger hands, these are perfect) - https://www.mamutvr.com/collections/upcoming/products/mamut-touch-grip
&#x200B;
Headset power:
I've heard people have had tracking issues due to insufficient power from their usb ports, my RTX 2080 has a dedicated USB-Type C that I use to power my headset and haven't had any tracking issues - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GGKYXVE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
&#x200B;
Rechargeable batteries for the controllers:
I've heard other people recommend different batteries but these have worked well for me - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IM3P8GS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can plug an USB C to USB A converter into the bottom of the switch and then plug it in.
I've done that with my Magic-NS adapter.
There are controllers that can plug in to the switch. You will probably need to get a usbc to usbc cable or usbc to microusb depending on the controller. I'm currently using a usbc to usbc for the 8bitdo snes grip controller. There is also the GameCube adapter that connects wired GameCube controllers. Lots of options more just up for preference. Is there a specific controller style you want. Like analog placements ECT?
Also if you already have a USB 2.0/3.0 you could get an adapter like this.
Will this or this work with the gamecube adapter I know adapters work but does this one?
Onvian USB Splitter Cable Male to 2 Female Adapter USB A Cord 2 Port Hub for Data Charging Syncing (Only one Port for Data) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KX4TKH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2zoXBbXMDN15V
'Onvian USB Splitter Cable' is what I use for this exact combo https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KX4TKH6?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Sure it’s this one here. I can’t comment on if it reduces the charge speed on my nomad or not but everything works.
You can use a usb splitter... super cheap
Onvian USB Splitter Cable Male to 2 Female Adapter USB A Cord 2 Port Hub for Data Charging Syncing (Only one Port for Data) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KX4TKH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JBujDbM8NJC3D
An micro usb or usb c adapter to usb type A, male to female. Into an usb hub usually an 2.0 then plugged in with an mouse and keyboard.
Edit: usb c to a
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-Gen1-Female-Adapter/dp/B01GGKYXVE?keywords=usb+c+to+usb+type+a&amp;qid=1536942351&amp;sr=8-12&amp;ref=mp_s_a_1_12
Or just skip the adapter and just use this. It seems to be an usb c.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MCTET84/ref=sspa_mw_detail_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I have the Nomad wireless charging pad and it uses both of the front USB ports. I have a usb splitter (link below). Please keep in mind that I found since it draws more power using both USB ports that some drives wouldn’t work any longer because they drew too much power. I am using a 32gb Sandisk usb stick I got from Walmart with zero issues and been using it several months.
Onvian USB Splitter Cable Male to 2 Female Adapter USB A Cord 2 Port Hub for Data Charging Syncing (Only one Port for Data) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KX4TKH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xItQCbRVE5ZMZ
So I've tested Link with an eGPU (external graphics card / dock). It eventually worked for me. Here are the specs:
Here are my observations:
Conclusion:
I knew what I was getting into, but using a Rift S with such setup instead of the Quest/Link is preferred due to TB3 limitations when feeding the signal back to the PC. Ideally, you would not use Oculus Quest or even a Rift S with an eGPU setup, but this is the setup I have, so here we are: it is confirmed to be working on a Windows machine and an RTX 2070 eGPU, as long as you have proper USB 3 ports. This depends on your laptop, though, hence Virtual Link port can save the day for some people.
I'm using a dongle + a short USB c cable. I keep the dongle attached to the camera, then the short cable to the drive, reduces port fatigue and cable fatigue. Haven't had any issues.
AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYXVE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
CreatePros USB Type C to USB 3.1... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K4TGGG9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
* IT WORKS!!! **
I got my USB splitter from Amazon right now... ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KX4TKH6 ) removed my USB thumb drive for music and TeslaCam and plugged in the splitter. Then the pad (both USB ends) and the USB thumb drive back in. It worked.... So I removed the USB splitter and plugged in both USB ends for the NOMAD - it worked. So I feel like an idiot. But I also feel that with people using a USB thumb drive for TeslaCam - NOMAD should tell people they MUST use both USB cables.
I'm so glad I don't have to return this or deal with support to get this resolved.
running a 2080 with display port extension 10 ft version
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B06Y46KJ3X?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
and the amazon basics usbc to usb 3.1 plugged into the VR link port on the 2080 (usbc)
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01GGKYXVE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
with this brand plugged into the amazon basics
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I used something like this for a while but 2019.8.5 was giving me issues with drive corruption...
So I ended up using a 12V to 2 USB power adapter and some USB extension cables to run power to the center console storage area with a couple of 3/8 inch holes drilled to feed the USB cables under the center console.
Get this.
If tapping helps, check all cables and connections to make sure they are clean and tight.
Can you post a picture of the board, and any cables/equipment between the outlet and the board? I would be surprised if that little overvoltage would cause a problem. However, I would replace the cord end and use a 2-to-3 prong adapter (wired correctly) although I don't think this is your problem.
Well, the power supply is a good brand, so that's another indication that the card might be bad.
Perhaps it could be that you're getting line noise from your ground. You can test this with a three to two adapter (or go to the dollar store, buy a cheap power strip, and break the ground prong off).
If the flicker is gone without the ground, it's definitely noise. You can run the monitors without a ground, but a line conditioner or UPS would be a better idea.
http://www.amazon.com/Prong-prong-grounding-converter/dp/B000I96AUM
DO NOT CUT THE GROUND OFF.
If you want to use a ghetto fix, you can tie the ground into the neutral. (THIS IS ALSO A BAD IDEA)
I'd say the safest bet is to tie the ground through the extension cable and use the 2 prong outlet for the hot/neutral. That, or get a ridiculously high rated extension cable.
The main issue, is that drawing a lot of power through the extension cable that probably isn't rated for that much will cause possible hazards. The ground likely isn't going to be carrying much current, so it should be ok to use.
http://www.amazon.com/Prong-prong-grounding-converter/dp/B000I96AUM
Tie that metal tab into something you absolutely know is grounded.
What about one of these? http://www.amazon.com/Prong-prong-grounding-converter/dp/B000I96AUM
those do anything except take your money. they do make HDMI to VGA adapters but they require a chip to convert the signal from digital to analog and it also raises the cost:
http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Gold-Plated-Active-Adapter/dp/B00879DM56/
if the HDMI-> VGA adapter doesnt have a little box thingy to contain the converter chip, its (probably) a piece of trash. (some of them make the chip really small and it just looks like a bulky plug)
also, you will loose a little quality due to the conversion.
Are you sure this HDMI-VGA converter actually works?
It's digital to analogue, those are more expensive and you can easily mistake it, if you don't know what you're looking for.
This is not what you want - this is for graphics cards that can output digital signal through VGA to digital monitor coming in through HDMI.
I believe this would be what you need (or similar): HDMI in, converter box, VGA out.
You would need an external HDMI to VGA converter box or an active adapter as the signals are incompatible. Something like this would work.
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Active-Adapter-Micro-USB/dp/B00879DM56 maybe with this
Alternatively, you could look to get an VGA to HDMI converter or just a cord with one side HDMI and one side VGA. Note that the latter cable apparently only works if your source is using VGA out.
From there, you would just need to figure out how you want to do the audio. Either 3.5mm, optical, separate speakers, etc.
EDIT: Looking back on it, this option would probably more messy in terms of cords, but maybe save you a little bit of money.
and if those don't work, here is one that my workplace uses and seems to be fine (although it may need power from a usb port that it comes with). you can look on amazon or anywhere for cheap ones like this if you need them.
You can use an adapter , like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Active-Adapter-Micro-USB/dp/B00879DM56
or find another with similar price, that suits your needs. There are a lot of different adapters, like HDMI to VGA, VGA to DVI, DVI to DisplayPort, you name it. Of course, you are limited to the weakest component, it will still behave like a VGA, but the adapter will convert it to a HDMI port.
Cable Matters Active HDMI to VGA Adapter with Micro-USB Power in Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00879DM56/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZIsazbF7Y700Z works just fine with the pi, and it's not exactly expensive.
I literally have your second "Here" (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Cable-Matters-Active-Female-Adapter-Black/dp/B00879DM56/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1414947253&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=vga+adapter+power) and it requires the micro-usb power supply. The one you currently have will not work.
Edit: I recommend getting the vga converter WITH audio. I made that simple mistake and had to buy a WHOLE other adapter for sound.
Yeah, you're fine. get either adapter and go for it. If you're worried about it not working buy this one and forget about it. It's not like using an active adapter is gonna make anything worse.
They make HDMI to VGA adapters, like this ONE
Less than half the price equivalent at Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Active-Adapter-Micro-USB/dp/B00879DM56
He'll need a VGA converter to HDMI. I have that one and I'm pretty sure it works both ways. And he'll need a HDMI to DP converter.
There are 5 different DVI connectors.
The rx460 uses DVI-D
So to connect to rhe monitor you want youll need an adaptor
hdmi to vga
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Active-Adapter-Micro-USB/dp/B00879DM56
DP to VGA
https://www.amazon.com/VicTsing-Gold-plated-DisplayPort-Adapter-Macbook/dp/B00K49SZTK/
display port to dvi-d
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Gold-Plated-DisplayPort/dp/B004C9M7UG/
Or
hdmi to dvi-d
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-HDMI-DVI-Adapter-Cable/dp/B014I8UQJY/
Any of these would work.
You bought the wrong cable. Use a VGA to HDMI converter. HDMI male to VGA female.
Like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00879DM56?gclid=CJXo8_-3scsCFdgUgQods1kMuA
Get a new monitor?
I'm actually being serious here. You've got a decent video card that has technology that moved past the analog VGA signal, that's why they don't include it anymore. Not like it would take up any more room (they could use a DVI-I instead of DVI-D). Do yourself a favor and upgrade your monitor too.
If you just need a picture, I've used http://amzn.com/B00879DM56 before. Don't expect much though.
There are numerous USB 3 video adapters out there. Below is a link to one.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BPEV1XK/ref=sspa_mw_detail_6?psc=1
One of these, I don’t use this exact one though.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BPEV1XK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9BmFAbXXPDQ8C
Laptops usually have the GPU installed directly on the motherboard, making them next to impossible to replace (at least the laptops i have had my hands on (granted mostly business computers)).
Perhaps you can get the video to the TV by using the USB 3.0 port that you have. There seems to be USB 3.0 to HDMI Graphic Adapters out there, but i have no idea if they are good or if it even solves your problem.
Something like this
I'd suggest getting a USB 3.0 to HDMI adapter, this will allow you to connect another display to your computer. when shopping for these, be sure to check the max resolution supported by the adapter isn't lower than your screen resolution.
Here's an example product of what I'm talking about.
You can buy usb display adapters that have an hdmi port. There are many options but here's one : https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Adapter-2560x1440-1920x1200/dp/B00BPEV1XK
Not entirely sure this will work (hopefully someone can correct me if I'm wrong), but if you purchase an external video card it should allow you to hook up a second, extended display.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NZTKOQI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 -- this is the 24" smaller portrait mode dell
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07684VKNF/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 -- this is the 27" bigger portrait, with a modified vesa bracket mount and OEM stand (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DAYR3ZM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 and https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-OEM-Monitor-Pedestal-Stand-P2415Qb-U2415-P2414Hb-P2214Hb-/263514859008?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10)
and then the ViewSonic is just a free 27" some tech startup gave me a few years ago when they moved back to SF.
I'm using an HDMI display port and thunderbolt port for the portraits, and this active display converter (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BPEV1XK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) for the view sonic.
It's a bit laggy sometimes, so I'm considering an eGPU for running all three screens so I can have all in full res and no latency issues.
I used these and it worked:
DP: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00L1K1G74?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
USB 3.0: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C7S2FRE?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
I got 6 ft extension, but someone posted that same cables 10ft extension worked as well.
With 10ft extension cables and 15ft from Rift you'll get your 25ft
I use the Cable Matters DP and USB cablse. Sorry my memory failed me, actually I just got the 1.8m (6 feet) it seems. I forgot I got a shorter one for the Rift S (had much longer 15' HDMI ones for cv1). The included cable on the Rift S being longer made this all I needed to reach all parts of my play space. I really just like to have something between the headset and my video card ports, and an easy access to unplug/replug right next to the couch, so these work perfect for me.
I did a quick search and found some folks talking about using at least 10' extension and maybe up to 5m, but couldn't find a link to a specific cable (I only looked for about 1 minute, I'm sure if you dust off your Google-fu you can find it if you really need one that long, I would imagine such a cable would include an active repeater and perhaps get kinda pricey).
Here is that thread: https://www.reddit.com/r/oculus/comments/beloox/oculus_rift_s_display_port_extension/
And here are the one's I am using with no issues:
6' (1.8m) DP cable (Cable Matters):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L1K1G74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
6' USB cable (Cable Matters):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I extended mine 6 feet and the USB with no issues. Here are the cables I used: Display port extension cable and USB 3.0 extension cable . Not 20 feet, but at least you know it can be done.
Yep. I use these (6 foot):
Display Port
USB
It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users.
I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!
Here is link number 1 - Previous text "usb"
----
^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete
Might be the USB extension? I'm using the same 6FT HDMI cable with my Dell and have had no problems. After doing some research, I paired it with this guy here:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Haven't had any problems with audio cutouts or the display not initializing. Should be easy enough to test - just try the HDMI extension without the USB extension and see if it works.
I doubt that, and it probably also depends on whether you have a launch Rift S or a newer model. I have both and my USB 3.0 cable matters 6 foot cables (I have 3, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) which work on my launch Rift S aren't working for my new Rift S (manufactured August 2019). My displayport extension cable however works fine on both of my Rift S units: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Z05JMKO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I did buy these two, but I haven't validated them yet. I hope to try them later tonight.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A30FLE2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A30FLE2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I ordered both of these, based on Tyriel Wood's review of them, and said they're working great on his Ody+, and mine has too. No issues.
i am using an evga gtx 980 with this cable:
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B013ICN940/ref=pe_386171_51767411_TE_dp_1
as a usb extension i use this cable:
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=pe_386171_51767411_TE_dp_2
this combination never dropped out on me or gave me any problems. having a longer cable makes the experience way better.
Because it won't work. You have to have an HDMI repeater, which generally costs $10-15. They also have cable sleeving on them which is about $7-8.
I was looking into making one but for everything you see it's will cost about $35-40 for a 10' extension plus having to deal with sleeving cables. I don't think $20 extra is too bad a deal to have everything assembled and sent to your door. Especially if you hate cable sleeving like me.
You could always just use cable ties and it'd make it about $30 and a little easier, but if you don't like ugly cables the sleeving is the way to go.
For anyone wondering here's my list of items needed to make one (please note I have not personally tested any of these cables. These are recommendations from another user (I think OP)):
COWEEN HDMI Repeater 4K UHD HDMI Female to Female HDMI Amplifier 40' HDMI Extender Up to 40 Meters Lossless Transmission for Oculus Rift and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GHL72XS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Yc2GAbWY6JQX0
Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Vd2GAbJSS05X4
Monoprice Active Select Series High-Speed HDMI Cable 10 Feet with RedMere Technology Supports Ethernet, 3D, 4K and Audio Return - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008D5ETHE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gf2GAbFA4REA2
Techflex PTN0.50BK25 Flexo PET General Purpose 1/2-inch Braided Cable Sleeve, Black - 25 Foot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UHQNUU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Tf2GAbBTGYGTT
These were the ones I found recommended somewhere else that work fine in my setup no problem.
DisplayPort
USB
I just picked received my hdmi and usb 3 extender cables I ordered from amazon. both are 10 ft and I've had no issues with them so far. The two together are heaver than the single cable that Oculus makes, but since thats not the part hanging from my head, it shouldn't be an issue.
These are the cables I use:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_YGxdxbPW3R45Z http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-Extension-Ethernet/dp/B00JJ517VI?ie=UTF8&amp;keywords=2m%20HDMI%20EXTENSION%20Cable%20Male%20to%20Female%20v1.4%203D%20High%20Speed%20With%20Ethernet%20BLACK&amp;qid=1460783173&amp;ref_=sr_1_fkmr3_3&amp;sr=8-3-fkmr3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FT9VW0O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_WTxdxbG2WKX4D http://www.amazon.com/Techflex-Split-Sleeving-Ft-Black/dp/B007VSTFMI?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
Both of these work
http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00DMFB5OK?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00
http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7SA21U?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
I just picked up a Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 pack the other day. This one is different than the Cable Matters cables that you tested. Wasn't terribly expensive either, I only paid $15 for 2 6-ft cables.
While I haven't tried plugging in the headset to the extension, it does work with the sensor just fine. I've been using my Rift since the cables arrived without any issues. I'll probably even use the second cable for the Touch sensor as well.
OK.. so I'm not sure how far you want to go. I got these two items >>
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-Extension-Ethernet/dp/B00JJ517VI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467169650&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Cable+Matters+2-Pack+High+Speed+HDMI+Extension+Cable+with+Ethernet++++++++++++10+Feet+-+3D+and+4K+Resolution+Ready
and
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467169808&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Cable+Matters+SuperSpeed+USB+3.0+++++++++++++Type+A+Male+to+Female+Extension+Cable+in+Black+10+Feet
and that gets me an additional 10 feet, which is cool, and I never have any problems. I DID initially, but I rolled back the USB3 Inateck Windows 10 driver, and it's been really stable since then. Not even one hiccup. Good luck to you. Hope this helps.
For anyone who bought the Lenovo Explorer MVR and need extension cable ideas. I have tested a HDMI and USB 3.0 cable that works.
AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI Extension Cable - 10 Feet https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01D5H91KE?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00C7SA21U?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Man, you have no idea how well it gets rid of that line of sight issue. I can lay prone and shoot! People were getting mad at me in multiplayer for it, lol.
It's super easy and will only cost you $40~ - here's what I used with mine:
The sensor cords are only 8 feet, so chances are you'll need to extend both. Use USB 3.0 for the first 2 sensors, and USB 2.0 if you get a 3rd.
Sorry I missed you earlier, here's what I used to get the tower discretely away in the corner and set up the triple monitor setup:
After that, you can have all peripherals at your fingertips and tuck the tower away into a corner. If your space is carpeted (and even if its not), be sure to keep the tower slightly elevated off the ground to allow for good air circulation.
Definitely not dogma but that's what I've been using, and it works well thus far. Be sure not to skimp on the length of your cords, when your hiding it it will need to snake around a bit under the desk.
Hope that helps!
I am using this HDMI
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GBBSZFE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HIEtzb056BQ0Y
And this usb and it works great https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DJEtzbMCAYRC0
No idea about Amazon.
You may need some USB extensions, depending on how you plan to run stuff, these are known to work:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00DMFFL2W?th=1
I’m using this on my HP headset and it works perfectly. Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_79NRAbYCMJXDN
Thanks man, the only problem with that link is the 1.8m is not available however I found this link
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01LNAAEJ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LK40DbP9NAMR0
Which I will try in combination with this
www.amazon.de/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mN40Db044AD1B
And see how it goes :)
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505231414&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=usb+extension+cable&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_five_browse-bin%3A7800928011
I have been using https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=psdc_464394_t2_B00HSS9KJY with my sensor, and it works flawlessly, i have an extra one as well, so i could try to double extend if you want me to test with that cable.
Edited: oops, wrong cable
> I'm gonna need extensions.
I had good luck with 10 foot for each via Amazon.
--------------------------------------
> Overall, setup was 9/10, but I'm giving it 5/10 because of the issues I had.
Similar here. I can see how it's supposed to be very smooth and quick, and I think re-establishing setup (if I were portable) would be very quick, but I had a number of issues that prolonged things.
--------------------------------------
> This does require you to have a lit room
This was disconcerting for me as well as preventing me from using VR sometimes since my VR area borders the den/living room and the breakfast nook and my wife often vetoed the turning up of all the lights (in the evenings).
--------------------------------------
> Controller tracking 8/10
I'd only give them 6/10. It's highly dependent on tolerance, body type, play style, and which game / experience you're using. My thoughts: https://www.reddit.com/r/WindowsMR/comments/7qlhde/samsung_odyssey_owners_are_you_happy/dsq5nh5/
--------------------------------------
> You will notice some black smear
I started noticing more of it as I dug back through my backlog of games and apps. The Quake II SteamVR environment, Allummette (the night scenes), and the large theater room in BigScreen are three places that had pretty awful black smear that I remember. In other places it was not noticeable though.
--------------------------------------
> Colors are also very vibrant
I agree, I thought the color pop was excellent and fun in the Odyssey, and simply made me want to try a lot of different things to see what they looked like.
--------------------------------------
> I think it's a tad bigger at least for me
Interesting, my buddy and I both thought his Vive with DAS and 6mm pad had the slight edge in terms of FOV, as well as amount of pupil swim, and there was something subtley not quite as impressive about either the binocular overlap or just the "closeness" of images in the Odyssey, but it was still very good and the great contrast and higher resolution made up for it.
--------------------------------------
> The forehead pad and back pad are nice and comfortable with most of the weight resting on the forehead and off of the nose/cheek area.
Eventually that forehead pad really started to dig into my forehead. I had a couple sessions that gave me real pain. Here was my solution: https://imgur.com/a/a9lqJ
--------------------------------------
> The damn nose flaps.
I totally agree! These would block about 70% of my nasal airflow! But there is an easy fix -- fold them back in behind the lenses. Works great, stays in place, and is easily reversible.
--------------------------------------
> They are comfortable and easy to position.
I found them a bit hard to get a good seal with. The DAS seems more articulatable which helps get a better on-ear seal which gives it the potential for a bit more perceived bass and therefore a bit more balanced frequency response. But neither holds up against my Audio-Technica ATH-M50s. I'm hopeful the Vive Pro audio addresses that a little more.
--------------------------------------
> If you are looking for a portable VR experience with a laptop or like to travel and show others VR without having to set up lighthouses or cameras
Yep, that is definitely the big benefit of the Odyssey. It can't be beat for that type of use case. It was kind of lost on me (no laptop, single permanent VR space at home), and I eventually decided due to the substandard controllers and controller tracking that it was worth more turned back into $486 so I returned it after 8 weeks due to Microsoft's very generous holiday return policy. I knew I'd miss it (certain aspects of it) and I do. If I were more into sims and had a driving setup it would have been a tougher call by far.
I do hope they pull together a version with more cameras that can handle the controllers getting close to the cameras and operate in lower light. Best would be some way to give the controllers actual inside-out tracking of their own using their own cameras but that might require a prohibitively large amount of information sent over Bluetooth (BT 5.0?) to the CPU for the Machine Vision algorithm.
I needed the exact same thing. This is what I went with from amazon. They work great. One is the set of the tripods and the other is the mini ball head you will need for each lighthouse with the tripod.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012FTXOW4/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WB02Z4/
I would also recommend extending the triple cable an extra 10 feet. You won't be able to keep the cable and HMD in the box after adding the cables, but it doesn't get tangled as easy and just works better when having other people try it for the first time.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FT9VW0O/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0008JHB14/
I have a very similar setup for my Rift and I have had very few problems with it in the 6 months or so that I've had it. I will recommend that you take your time when doing the actual setup. I spent close to an hour finetuning the positioning of the sensors before I got them to track nearly perfect.
This is the USB extension cable that I've been using for both sensors. I have mine plugged into USB 2.0 ports on my MOBO and I've had zero issues thus far.
EDIT: I'll also note that I have both sensors mounted upside down on the celing. I just used the stand that they came with and some velcro.
I bought the following to extend my Odyssey 10' and they are working very well
HDMI extension
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
USB 3.0 extension
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
These are what I use to extend my headset cables.
I'm using these....
HMDI
USB
Then for the sake of asthetics, I wrapped them both in this to keep the wires together when routing.
10 foot for each, which has worked for me, but 15 might give a bit more flexibility depending on the location of your PC. But part of the benefit of the hanging cables is that as long as your cable can reach diagonally to the opposite corner of your space, (front to back, left to right, and top to bottom. Diagonally in 3 dimensions), then it should be able to reach anywhere in your space. The stock Rift cable can reach diagonally across my space, and my extension cables are just getting my cable to its "start" position in the corner.
Keep in mind these cables don't have a ton of strength, so I recommend getting a hefty command strip hook to statically fix your wire near the ceiling to take a lot of the weight, then the hook cables can split the weight from there as it droops towards your head naturally.
This turned into a bit of a novel but I hope my "lessons learned" are helpful haha
A few other things:
As others have mentioned, the Odyssey's tracking relies on the room having enough light for the cameras to see.
While the Vive works great in total darkness, you have to remember to turn on the lights at night to make the Odyssey track.
And one other thing I should mention is that the cable is a bit short on the Odyssey, I had to buy some extension cables from Amazon to be comfortable I wouldn't accidentally yank out or break the connectors.
I went with these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/
Just as another datapoint. I'm using a ASUS ROG MAXIMUS VIII GENE LGA 1151 Intel Z170 mobo. I have a Cable Matters 10ft Passive USB3 extension cable which is similar to the one you tested and although you had limited success this worked fine for the camera sensor on all my rear ports. My front ports aren't currently hooked up to check.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U
I've used these with my Ride S and they work fine. Keep in mind it's about more than just you cables. It has to do with your USB ports too. I've found my IXT motherboards tend to work better than my ATX boards. I think the shorter traces of ITX make for better signal integrity.
So the same cable my work for some people and not for others. Good luck!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C7SA21U?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image
https://www.amazon.com/your-orders/pop?packageId=1&amp;ref=ppx_yo2_mob_b_pop&amp;orderId=112-5223028-2859402&amp;lineItemId=kkkkmqkunpmvony&amp;shipmentId=Dsp458cSP
> USB - Eleven of these https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A2HI77ZYQGGRR3&amp;psc=1
I think you might struggle with daisy chaning these USB 3.0 extensions. Apparently the maximum length for passive USB 3.0 cables should be around 3 meters otherwise you'll start encountering poor signal.
I have 3 sensors, one plugged in directly, another via a short USB 3.0 ext, the third using the USB 2.0 ext that comes with the extra sensor from Oculus. All seems to work great. I'd probably start with 3 sensors and only add the 4th if you really need it.
I use this setup without any issues:
HDMI cable extenstion
USB Cable extension of the rift
USB Cable extension for the cameras
Here are the links for all the extras I bought to set it up.
(the 16 ft extension is the one that came when I ordered my oculus.)
Have a look at this video ! In about 5minutes he explains that you want a high quality USB 3.0 cable.
Try this cable in 10ft length.
Carabiners are useful. Clip one to a back belt loop on a pair of jeans/etc, then loop the cable through it. It goes a long way towards keeping the cable out of the way of your feet. It also cuts down on the amount of "tugging" you feel on your head as you pull the cable along behind you, which makes it feel a little less immersion-breaking.
> Do I need to get some extension cables to allow more freedom of movement further away from my PC? If so, which ones?
I think so, assuming you have the play space. Oculus has some recommended cables. I bought these 10ft extensions on Amazon and they have served me well with quite a few different headsets with no issues - HDMI and USB
get yourself some VR Covers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0779VGT9W
---
a USB extension cable
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
---
an HDMI extension cable (you only need one, but you can't beat the deal)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/
---
a pack of velcro ties for the cables
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O9VKVFK/
---
bluetooth 4.0 adapter if you don't have one (or don't have a good one) and plug into a USB 2.0 port if possible. put it on the end of any USB extension cable will help ensure a direct line of sight to you from the adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ZIILLI/
---
and finally, if your USB ports fail the WMR test, get this card
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011LZY20G/
My EVGA GTX 980Ti works just fine on the 6 ft cables. I've not seen too many complaints about EVGA cards so I'm speculating they might be pushing out a slightly stronger signal that doesn't degrade over those distances with good quality cables.
I also bought 10 ft ones as well and they worked fine. I dropped back to 6 ft because I didn't need that much length.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
and
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ519KC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;th=1
They don't seem to have 10ft HDMI cables anymore which is odd.
The same one you linked here, the 10ft
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
I've extended all my sensors and my headset to give me full use of my computer room using only passive. Sounds like you've already got this to work but here's what I use in case anyone else wants to know. Cost me in total, like $45 and everything works perfectly.
Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet
AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable - 6 Feet (Latest Standard)
Cable Matters (2 Pack) Gold-Plated High Speed HDMI Female Coupler 3D & 4K Resolution-Ready
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Those extensions are perfect on my setup, looking at my order I actually got the 10 feet cables.
For anyone interested:
Sleeve: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007VSTFMI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
HDMI: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
USB: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Gives me 10 feet of breathing room so I can fasten it to the desk leg, reducing the risk to my motherboard and GPU
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=ya_st_dp_summary
I guess so, sure; it just seems like it'd give you more variety in gameplay in the future.
If you ever want to try it out, I personally just ordered this extension cable after numerous recommendations from the /r/oculus community for like $18 CAD. :)
Wanted to make a quick post - using the Anker recommended cable (3M).
I tried the AmazonBasics USB 3.0 Extension Cable along with Cable Matters USB to USB Extension Cable - Both 3M - neither worked.
Finally, I tried CableCreation Active USB Extension Cable (Long 16.4 FT) - THIS WORKS, and it's way longer than the others.
The only one that's really officially supported is this one
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZIPYPY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cheap and works with some 10' extension cables including this one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This gives you 20 feet. Done deal
These are the exact cables I used to extend both my rifts. Both are lossless quality; no noise, snow, nothing.
USB Extension
HDM Extension
Also in case you are interested, these are the cables I used to extend my sensor cables. Entire system works flawlessly. Some people have had to plug one or two of the sensors into a USB2.0 slot instead of 3.0 to get perfect tracked. I just split the 3.0's up between several different card. A good rule of thumb is two inputs per card. So i used the MOBO slots, the top panel slots, and my PCI-E USB slots to ensure each component was receiving sufficient power.
Hope this helps. Best of luck and enjoy (:
I have a 980 as well. I've been using these 10 ft cables for a few months now and not had any problems:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Hi Takyon_dg, thanks for the info!
Here's a DisplayPort to HDMI adapter that we've tested with Windows Mixed Reality:
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Supporting-Technology/dp/B00EDT0072/
(Unfortunately, I'm not sure if any retailers in Canada sell this adapter. I tried to look for it on the NCIX, MemoryExpress, Amazon.ca and Newegg.ca web pages but didn't see it there)
Thanks!
Just FYI, you can get a DP to HDMI adapter for $17 on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDT0072/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
In some cases you have to enable the integrated graphics in BIOS. In other cases you are not able to do this. I think you should find the options to enable integrated video in your Z87 chip set though I may be wrong.
If you can't find the option, then there is this: http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Supporting-Technology/dp/B00EDT0072
EDIT: If you have an open HDMI port on your card, and your TV accepts HDMI, why are you trying to convert DP to HDMI?
If you utilize active rather than passive display port adapters it will work.
I used this guy to do 4 monitors from 1 card. https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Supporting-Technology/dp/B00EDT0072
You can't use more than 3 non DP displays unless you use active DP adapters. Your TV is probably connected using a passive DP to HDMI adapter. You need an active one like this https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Supporting-Technology/dp/B00EDT0072/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482528470&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=active+displayport+to+hdmi
You are probably using a passive adapter and need to get an active DP to HDMI adapter.
This is what I use with no problem:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00EDT0072/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
though I bought it over a year ago and it was $20 cad.
Maybe that display port to hdmi adapter is bad? I've bought three of the active cable matters adapters and I don't remember them not working. I had one running a 25 ft hdmi that I gamed on at one point. The others I have used for work. You could try one and return it if it doesn't fix the problem.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDT0072/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
EDIT: Forgot to mention that I have the same 1080 as you. I am using all three display ports with accell display port cables (no adapters) and then a 4th monitor on the 25 ft HDMI and it's all been working great for the last couple days. The RGB option showed for all 4 monitors.
Have you tried USB-C to DisplayPort directly to verify if it's the adaptor or the cable that's the issue?
Most DisplayPort hardware, I guess dongles in particular, will be passive. For DisplayPort to DVI or HDMI you need to get an active convertor, something like this that will convert the DP signal to HDMI/DVI.
There's plenty of information on the topic here:
https://www.startech.com/uk/faq/displayport_converter_dp_multi_mode
Edit: This one seems to support 2560x1440 whilst the other may only reach 1920x1080: https://www.amazon.com/Sienoc-DisplayPort-Adapter-Converter-4096x2160-Black/dp/B00XXNER3M/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484871155&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=displayport+to+dvi+active
> active Displayport to DVI
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B00EDT01TO/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511323915&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=active+dvi+to+displayport
Looking for that... how come the top resolution they support is 1920x1200?
No idea if this supports 144 Hz, but it does do 1440p:
Cable Matters Active DisplayPort to DVI Adapter (Active DP to DVI Adapter) with Eyefinity Technology Support https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EDT01TO
You need an active adapter. Your best bet is a displayport to DVI (Active) adapter.
Edit: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B00EDT01TO/
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Eyefinity-Technology/dp/B00EDT01TO/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=displayport+to+dvi-d+active&qid=1568212627&s=gateway&sr=8-3
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As long as it's an active adapter it should support 1440p/60hz.
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So then you just need a card with one DVI-D port and a DP port.
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Edit:
https://www.amazon.com/XFX-1203MHz-RX-550P2SFG5-PCI-Express-Video/dp/B071XXZWT1/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=rx+550&qid=1568212967&s=gateway&sr=8-4
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I think this should be able to drive two desktops at 1440/60. I wouldn't want to game on it or use any kind of demanding programs.
You could try something like this. I think an RMA through sapphire is your best bet since an adapter isn't guaranteed to work once or any time after that.
An HDMI to DVI adapter like this should work and it's what I would buy: http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-HDMI-DVI-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00NH11X64/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459211217&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=hdmi+to+dvi
If it doesn't then you might need an active adapter like this: http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B00EDT01TO/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459211233&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=hdmi+to+dvi+active
You want the best connection possible which is always digital. DVI/Displayport/HDMI are all superior to VGA. Just avoid using VGA and you should be fine.
Is it Mini display port or full size?
Mini: http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B00EDSZYII/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1453060532&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=active+displayport+dvi
Full size: http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B00EDT01TO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1453060532&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=active+displayport+dvi
The reviews seem to be rather full of complaints about this particular adapter, issues similar to yours, I cannot say if it's your issue, but if you can return/refund it, do so.
I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDT01TO/ and it works great.
I am curious about what test failed. For a work phone I would also reconsider joining the insider preview. Be careful with usb-c charging cables since many have the incorrect resistor.
Here are some cool things:
To copy files to and from an SD card.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012UWCAGC
To copy files to and from an USB Thumb drive, or connect a USB mouse or keyboard: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016NNEAQM
If you want to connect your dock to a DVI monitor you can use this connector, note it has to be an active type: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDT01TO
Nope.
Use an adapter
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B00JQORLCG
Adding HDMI: if you don't want to pay the StarTech hype tax, https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B00JQORLCG this is cheaper and 4.5 stars reviewed.
HDMI to DisplayPort Adapter. Gonna need a DisplayPort cable to go along with it.
Thanks for the help man.. I'm trying this one out. Apparently, it doesnt work with PS4 but should work with xbox. If not I'll return it and just buy a new monitor.
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B00JQORLCG
These guys make a working HDMI 2.0 to DP converter, however it only supports 1080p, 2160p/4K output, their device is firmware upgrade-able so you could try asking them if they would support 1440p output.
https://www.siig.com/hdmi-2-0-to-displayport-1-2-converter-4kx2k-60hz.html
This converter can turn HDMI into DP but it's meant for PC's and it's hard to know if it will work with Xbox 2018 1440p support.
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B00JQORLCG/
Club3D make this PC GPU converter, it turn HDMI 1.4 into DP, same as above
https://www.amazon.com/Club3D-CAC-2330-DisplayPort-Adapter-Female/dp/B076KXYKN2/
There is this cheap Belkin HDMI 2.0 to DVI cable that might be worth a try.
https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-HDMI-DVI-D-Cable-Supports/dp/B004W44YIO/
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So I think this cable should be the thing to make it work. The whole idea behind this cable is to allow laptops with HDMI to connect to a monitor with a DP input. And since the headset is technically a monitor, then this should work. Someone in the reviews even said that they were able to get 144hz running with this. So this would be the last hope. Some other person told me the coupler I linked before might just cause more issues. This has gotta be the answer.
You can use something like this to connect your DP monitor to the extra HDMI port:
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B00JQORLCG
Ok that is a DisplayPort to HDMI adapter. You won't get DP out of that it is only a one way conversion. You need a HDMI to DP converter.
This is the least expensive one I see on Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-DisplayPort-Converter/dp/B00JQORLCG/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417560203&amp;sr=1-8&amp;keywords=hdmi+to+displayport Still not sure if it would handle HDCP correctly though.
They exist. I have this one. Now will it work with freesync is a different question.
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Converter-Supporting/dp/B00JQORLCG/ref=sr_1_20_sspa?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521600887&amp;sr=8-20-spons&amp;keywords=hdmi+to+dp+adaptor&amp;psc=1
Is it an HDMI to Display Port adapter or is it a Display Port to HDMI adapter that you try to connect in a reverse order? Cause googling for Insignia HDMI to Display Port adapter doesn't bring any hits.
HDMI to Display Port adapters are not so common and they are more expensive. Here are some from Amazon (1),(2),(3),(4).
So what you need is a male HDMI-female DisplayPort adapter and a DisplayPort cable
Edit: Here's an example
Edit 2: The reason why they only work one-way is that it takes a specialized circuit to convert from one to the other, and on top of that the circuitry requires power that HDMI ports can't provide (hence the USB connector on the one I linked). DisplayPort -> HDMI doesn't need the USB connector because the DisplayPort port has more power available.
I am looking all over and honestly this is the only thing I found. http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-DisplayPort-Converter/dp/B00JQORLCG/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1422654000&amp;sr=8-9&amp;keywords=hdmi+to+displayport
I can't guarantee it will work and it requires power through the USB connection, and a separate displayport cable. There is a lot of Displayport to HDMI but almost no HDMI to DP.
Should theoretically work: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JQORLCG/
What what specific laptop do you have?
This adapter is working fine for me
I'm using this one with my Rift fine. http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Gold-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B00K0UDYLM?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
I had tried to use http://www.amazon.com/Club3D-Displayport-1-2-HDMI-CAC-1070/dp/B0194F1MY4?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00 but that was resulting in noise with the Rift (couldn't get it to work correctly with my TV at 4k and 60 Hz)
This one worked for me on both the Rift and Vive. http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Gold-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B00K0UDYLM
My bad, I should have paid closer attention. This is the proper one, from my order history:
Cable Matters Gold-Plated DisplayPort to HDMI Male to Female Adapter - 4K Resolution Ready https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K0UDYLM/
I have been using this to run two 4K@60hz displays off of a 960.
Cable Matters Gold-Plated DisplayPort to HDMI Male to Female Adapter - 4K Resolution Ready
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K0UDYLM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_ex1KwbHT9WXSM
Can't tell for sure on latency since they go to TVs, but there's not a lot of room in there for much circuitry, so it can't be much. I'm pretty sure it actually just tells the graphics card to output HDMI over the pins and then routes them to the right places on the HDMI connector. Could be wrong though.
I've purchased this headless ghost and this DP to HDMI adapter.
It required some tinkering in the nvidia's control panel custom resolution settings but everything works flawlessly.
Just make sure that VD is NOT running while you mess with the custom resolution.
My headless ghost custom resolution settings are here
If you notice that the nvidia settings aren't "sticking" use the windows resolution manager and under "display adapter properties" you should see a 90hz option under refresh rate for your chosen resolution.
planning on using the adapter for my monitor and the raw HDMI connection for the rift, this is the one i bought, but i have no idea when it's getting here:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00K0UDYLM
The surface dock has a mini-displayport port. So you need a active mini displayport to hdmi adapter.
I've used this one and it works well: https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0BWR2K
There is such thing as mDP to HDMI 2? Do you happen to have an amazon link? I can't seem to find my way around it.
This looks to be the mDP to HDMI 2 adapter that I would need, right?
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0BWR2K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480739016&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=Mini+Displayport+1.2+to+HDMI+2.0+UHD&amp;psc=1
If you happen to see a cable that does it right @ 60hz, please share!
And as for your question, I would ideally want a better framerate -- am I misunderstanding sthng?
Thanks for your help.
EDIT: my understanding is that "HDMI 2.0" is nonsensical for -CABLES- -- is this correct? It's a reference to an adapter, and I would be using a standard HDMI cable from the HDMI2.0 adapter to my TV. Right?
I ran into this same problem and was recommended this cable.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S0BWR2K/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3HIHADV23VGU1&amp;psc=1
I bought this and works great on my 4k TV. 4K 60hz with HDR10 that I'm using on my Sony 4K TV.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S0BWR2K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Sure, this is the card i'm looking at, seams to have DP1.2 HDMI 1.4 and DVI CEX with this Adapter
The gt1030 is a good shout though not too far over my budget, i wonder which is the most powerful.
FYI.. the adaptor I used. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plugable-Active-DisplayPort-Adapter-DisplayPort-Enabled/dp/B00S0C7QO8/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;ref_=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp
And I'll happily delete these posts if you think it's wise.
That adapter won't work. The cheap ones only support lower resolutions under 1080p at 60 Hz. You need an active 4K capable adapter that can drive 90Hz like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0C7QO8
That won't work. Oculus requires HDMI 1.4, WMR requires HDMI 2.0. That adapter is equivalent to a DP -> HDMI 1.4. You'll want either the Plugable one or the Club3D one. Yeah, they're more expensive and you might be cheap, but they're more expensive because you require more bandwidth than the one you posted.
The one you posted would work, but your framerate would be locked and you might as well just use the onboard HDMI 1.4 at that point.
Display Port accepts digital signal input with backward compatibility to HDMI which is also a type of digital interface. The specs on your GPU say that it supports up to 4096 x 2160 digital resolution so you won't have any troubles GPU wise. You might need a different converter though. I linked that one just for illustration purposes.
There are several models out there so you certainly should be able to find one that fits your need in a nearby shop or online.
Edit: Added link.
Get one of these
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S0C7QO8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZTrTBbC671J6P
That converter is not capable of 4k60fps. It's passive and uses DP++ to convert, which only supports 1920x1200. You need an active packet conversion cable to do this
Edit: This is the adapter I use for my TV
Plugable Active DisplayPort to HDMI 2.0 Adapter (Supports displays up to 4K / UHD / 3840x2160@60Hz) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00S0C7QO8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_D9A9Bb4JTCXSK
I've used this one without any problems. Gave me 4K@60 without issues from a Z97I-PLUS board with a i7-5775C in it.
I did a research about the Explorer (since I noticed that people love their Explorers and they said good things about it) so I got interested in it as well and I think I can reccommend you to **not use the flip up display thing since it is sensitive and it can break easily** (instead use the Flashlight feature that allows you to see the real world using its cameras without taking off the HMD)
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As for the BT donle I heard good things about this **Plugable BT dongle** :
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Bluetooth-Adapter-Raspberry-Compatible/dp/B009ZIILLI/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1538640779&sr=1-4&keywords=bluetooth+4.0+dongle
Also some GPUs require the right display port (in order to get 90 fps at max and not only 60 fps) so I am also going to buy the **Plugable Active DisplayPort to HDMI 2.0 Adapter**
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S0C7QO8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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And I found that the best rechargeable AA batteries are these of Eneloop (I am also going to buy the standard charger they have with it) :
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JHKSMJU/ref=sspa_dk_detail_5?pd_rd_i=B01G3SS04A&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=f52e26da-1287-4616-824b-efc564ff75a4&pf_rd_r=KS01C5W02E586HF605CW&pd_rd_wg=E0zRf&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_w=M28DE&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pd_rd_r=2f98b6c6-cc99-11e8-9fea-e722222b4194&th=1
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These are the stuff I decided to buy for my yet to be purchased Explorer after doing my research.
Note that it will have to be an active HDMI 2.0 adapter. Passive adapters will not work. I'm using a combination of a cheap USB-C to Displayport dongle and the Plugable Displayport to HDMI 2.0 active adapter (https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0C7QO8) to drive a 43" 4K Samsung at 4K60Hz from my XPS 9350, and it works beautifully. There are a couple of combined adapters now available as well, which adapt directly from USB-C to HDMI 2.0 and should do the trick, though I haven't used any of them myself. Here's one: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Thunderbolt-DisplayPort-Incompatible/dp/B01K51GM46
That's a strange card to buy new, although perhaps it is a decent price due to the current crypto-mining fad? If you got it cheap, fair enough.
Anyway, I have a Fury. Works great performance wise, but the HDMI, like the Fury X, is only 1.4, so if you want the headset at 90hz, you need to buy HDMI to Displayport adapter.
Like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S0C7QO8/
Haven't seen anyone say this - this is how i solved it
Stop trying to adapt the connection the rift/vive is using - give it the native conection
Then one of those like £20 adaptors should be fine for your TV no?
edit: /u/bushmaster2000 already said this
I use a 15ft active USB cable, 3ft displayport to hdmi adapter, 15ft active hdmi cable, and a link box in between. With my Lenovo explorer. Works perfectly. Holds 90fps. And no static or anything. I use the bluetooth on the link box.
Plugable Active DisplayPort to... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S0C7QO8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8T8FC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Cable Matters USB 3.0 Cable (USB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSS9LEI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
HTC Vive Link Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXR6DKV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
AC to DC 12V 1.5A 12V1.5A Power... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018JL0YIY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Try this
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0C7QO8
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S0C7QO8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This is the one I use. Works like a charm for me!
Good example here: Link
This is the one I am/was using getting my new monitor today but it worked great for my vga one
HDMI to VGA, 1080P with Audio Port, Rankie Gold-Plated Active HDMI HDTV to VGA Adapter Converter Male to Female with Micro USB & 3.5mm Audio Port Cable - R1150 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZMV7RL2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_x1bEybNJ88QZG
this is probably your best bet: https://www.amazon.com/Akale-Composite-Converter-Adapter-Blue-Ray/dp/B01I9KJX82/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484557769&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=composite+to+hdmi&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-Gold-Plated-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00ZMV7RL2/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484557843&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=hdmi+to+vga
i personally own both of these adapters and they work fine for me. vga doesn't carry audio however (neither does dvi) but the hdmi to vga adapter has a headphone port so plug in your headphones or speakers if thats better. the only down sides are that since your using composite (yellow/red/white) your games will look like CRAP compared to other solutions, but this is cheap! and also the adapters need power so they run off usb :/ so either use the adapter your phone charger uses, plug into a pc, or your monitor may have some usb ports.
If your monitor has only VGA (DSUB) input:
---
for the PS3: an HDMI to VGA adapter.
for the N64: Composite to VGA converter
for the SNES: The above converter plus a component cable like this if you don't already have one.
-------------
If your monitor has only DVI input:
----
for the PS3: An HDMI to DVI cable (or adapter).
for the N64: the above cable/adapter plus component to HDMI converter
for the SNES: both of the above plus a component cable like this if you don't already have one.
Yeah works great, though the cable is REALLY thick. My only complaint is the power extension cable says it is 10', but it is actually about 2 inches shorter than the HDMI and USB cable which makes it slightly a pain to plug in. Other than that, no issues. Here is everything I ordered:
HDMI cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004C4SECG
Power cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H8Q8EGA
USB cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U
Sleeving: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UHQMYW
Here are all the extensions and sleeve you need.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ZATN3WI/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C7SA21U/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004C4SECG/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FT9VW0O/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I have all 4 of my sensors mounted 7 ft up, I have switched back to only using 3 till I get this issue resolved.
I tried using the cable matters 16ft active USB 3.0 cable for one of my fronts sensors but it wouldnt detect as 3.0, so I swapped it for the 10ft passive one and it worked fine.
Here are the mounts and cable I have had success with:
Mount-https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R96X9DS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
10ft USB 3.0 cable-
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
All I have plugged in are my mouse, keyboard, webcam. I guess I could just disconnect the webcam till I need it.
I downloaded the drivers from Inatecks website so I think thats good to go.
I am using extension cables. 3.0 USB extensions I got from Amazon.
I just ordered Amazon Basics 10 foot HDMI Extender https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE and Cable Matters 10 foot USB 3 extension https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U, $15 for the set. The Cable Matters one was recommended on reddit and the amazon one had reviews saying it worked.
Alright, an update. Everything works. I am using 10ft version of https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/ as the HDMI extension (I got the 2pack which is unfortunately currently sold out, I'm not sure if they sell them separate) and the 10ft version of this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ for both the headset and my sensors.
Apparently the HDMI may or may not work depending on your video card and I guess I lucked out with my MSI 980. Some people have had to use a DVI->HDMI converter. I have the headset + 1 sensor going into the Inateck pci card, and my 2nd sensor going into my motherboards USB2. When my 3rd sensor gets here, assuming everything works, I'll likely plug it into the Inateck card as well.
Depending upon your computer placement you may not need any.
The 2 front sensors that I have plugged into USB3.0 only need to be 6 to 8 feet apart, slightly more if you want to push the limits. If you need an extension for one of them you should use a 3.0. My computer is off to the side so I used a 10 foot extender by Cable Matters for the far front sensor.
I have seen people mention they used all 2.0 with good results though. Since you ordered 2.0 already you might as well give them a try.
The rear corner sensor has a USB 2.0 /16 feet extension cable included so it was able to be routed outside the perimeter my play space to where I needed it.
I bought the same...links below:-
Including P&P to Perth, the total cost was $33.65 USD.
I haven't received them yet (arriving next week) so can't confirm they work for me...but they are listed as compatible in a few other links on here, so fingers crossed :)
I will try to get some pictures tonight. I am using 10' extensions.
HDMI:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
USB:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I am using these with both my cameras and headset. Everything works great. (200008-BLACK-10)
Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B013ICN940/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I have 10 ft. extenders. If you have hdmi you might want to try that. Otherwise, give me a few minutes and I'll link my cords.
EDIT:
USB cables
HDMI
These both work consistantly for me.
This Extension Cable works, and This one.
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This USB-C cable did not work.
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PC
Gigabyte GA-Z270P-D3
Intel Core I7 6700 Gaming PC - 3.4GHz - 4GHz Quad Core - 32GB RAM - 1080 GTX 8GB
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Laptop
Dell 7577 i5 Max-Q GTX 1060, 16GB ram
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Both worked no issues.
Just getting back to you on this, I did as you suggested, here's a video showing how it turned out. One sensor is connected directly to the motherboard, another is connected directly to the mobo with the extension cable included with a standalone sensor, and then another is connected with this cable to the Inateck card, along with the Rift plugged into the Inateck card. I'm using the latest Fresco Logic drivers, with USB Selective Suspend disabled, Fresco Registry Tweaks enabled, and "Disable Fresco Power Management on start" checked in Oculus Tray Tool.
I did a 10' no problem with these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You need an active displayport adapter. I had this exact problem when I bought a regular displayport to HDMI cable and it wouldn't let me connect all three at the same time.
Bought these:
1
2
I really don't want to waste anymore money on this lol.
Which two did you buy and what is the resolution and hz of your monitor?
I would expect something like this to be a better one. If it supports eyefinity that is a good sign that it didn't skimp on something. But the main thing you want is an "active" one.
This is one I have and use for hooking my laptop to tvs. Never had an issue: http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Supporting-Technology/dp/B00EDT0072
This is a newer company and you can see their adapter is smaller than the other two, but it makes the same claims of support. This one even specifically says hdmi 1.4 support. http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0C7QO8
Other than those 3, I do not think any other adapter on amazon would be worth buying. The rest are junk that may work with a 1080p tv, but that is it.
Make sure your hdmi to displayport is using an 'active' adapter. I use the same set of connections and had to get the right adapter.
I used this one.
I'm having the exact issue as OP but I only have one card, G1 970..
Here are my available display i/o:
1 x HDMI / 3 x DisplayPort / 1 x Dual-link DVI-I / 1 x Dual-link DVI-D
Currently, I have 2 monitors in DP, 1 monitor in HDMI... and Rift plugged into an adapter to a DP port. How would I change my connections to get them all to function?
edit: would this fix my issues? https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Supporting-Technology/dp/B00EDT0072/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467485486&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=HDMI+to+DP+active
I'm a little skeptical of that one because it looks like a passive converter even though it's listed as active.
Normally it will look something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Supporting-Technology/dp/B00EDT0072/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
The size is a bit larger because it needs to use an additional chip to convert the signal, otherwise you'll wind up with the same issue of only being able to duplicate one of your screens.
It's a limitation in the digital video output of the cards (AMD has this issue as well) If you want to run 3 displays off one card ONE of the displays has to be either native display port or connected to Displayport with an Active Adapter.
I want three monitors and am planning to purchase the ASUS VS239H-P. I have two monitors already plugged in with hdmi and dvi. I am using an amd card and I believe I need an active converter to plug the third monitor into display port. I just want make sure that this is the right one to buy.
After doing loads more research, I think this might solve my problem.
Seems like an adapter issue, you might have a passive one instead of an active adapter.
You'll need something like this
Can't guarantee 100% that this will work but hey, it's not extremely expensive so if it doesn't work it's not that bad..
I'm hoping it will, keep me updated if you do decide to get one :)
I have not yet tried any other computers.
I have the same issue on my graphics card's hdmi 2.0b port and on its display port using this adapter which I believe is supported:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EDT0072/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ru2wCbX5ZTKBV
Be aware that there is such a thing as an "active adapter" and a "passive adapter". The cheaper ones are likely passive ones - they will be unlabelled and will not work.
You need an active adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EDT0072/
I think your best bet will be buying an adapter. You want an active display port adapter. It needs to be "active" meaning it's the adapter itself that handles the conversion.
Active displayport to VGA is cheapest at $15 and looks just as good as VGA straight off the card. If one of your monitors is already using an analog connection, then just pick up one of these.
The active displayport to DVI or HDMI is an all digital conversion so there's no quality loss. They cost a bit more at around 20 bucks.
IMPORTANT EDIT: Just saw a question on that page, someone asked if its active or passive, everyone answers passive so there's your problem.
Yeah, doesn't really show. I assume the adapter is not active unless it says so, why miss a marketing chance right? Also if I compare yours to mine, mine is a lot chunkier, as are most of the active ones I find online, like this one
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Supporting-Technology/dp/B00EDT0072
Source for all this info is me running into the same thing a couple of years ago. Exact same problem, seeing 3 screens in settings but only being able to activate 2.
If without the adapter the monitor runs at its native resolution then it's almost certainly your adapter, which appears to just be a simple passive cable.
Something like this should fit the bill.
Edit:adapter is the first result from a web search and not a specific recommendation. I've never looked into adapters just saw some things when I was looking for a new monitor. You're better off doing some research on which adapter is the best buy.
>re out why things aren't working through your DisplayPort.
>
>Just to confirm, which (make/model) adapter are you using?
Hello. I'm currently using a cable matters adapter I bought from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Supporting-Technology/dp/B00EDT0072/ref=nav_ya_signin?ie=UTF8&qid=1537410927&sr=8-13&keywords=cable+matters+hdmi+to+displayport&
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The portal recognizes the headset, but no video output.
I have also tried another one from Plugable earlier:
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S0C7QO8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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but with the same results.
It does, but I did some research on this recently and it's important to get the right cable.
If your monitor has a DP++ input, you can use a normal "passive" adaptor/cable. This means the monitor can handle the conversion from HDMI to DisplayPort.
If it doesn't, you need an "active" adaptor which has a chip inside it that handles the conversion. Something like this
I never ended up needing to buy an adaptor myself, but yeah, that's what I found when I looked into it.
More info here: https://www.startech.com/au/faq/displayport_converter_dp_multi_mode
Will this do the trick? http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Supporting-Technology/dp/B00EDT0072/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452599494&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=active+hdmi+to+displayport+adapter
Hopefully because I just amazon same day shipped it :)
On the listing you linked, I notice it doesn't specify passive or active. Only doing 1920x1080 makes it look like an older active chip. BTW You can ask the monitor about what resolution its getting from the computer.
This is the exact one I purchased. It works at 2560x1080
For the threads on LTT that recommend against the DVI to HDMI adapter, what generation of video card are they talking about? DVI protocol itself has limits, but these limits got worked around by sticking HDMI ports on the monitors and then you talk HDMI to the monitor.
Does the DisplayPort icon have a little "++" next to it like this? Or does it only have the "DP" part? If it has the ++, then you can use a cheap cable to convert. Otherwise, you need something more expensive.
I did some more reading and found out I need an active DisplayPort adapter because my GPU needs two special clocks for the other two ports. DVI and HDMI both use this clock, but DisplayPort doesn't, so to have a third monitor I need an adapter that will take that DisplayPort signal, actively convert it into what I need (HDMI), and then output that signal. I plan to be getting this one, hopefully that should do the trick.
Thank you for your assistance, it's greatly appreciated.
No, you need an active adapter like this
I'm using this one, which is the other recommended one: https://www.amazon.ca/Cable-Matters-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B00EDT0072/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;ref_=ya_aw_od_pi
The .ca page has some conflicting info I see. At one point it says 1920x1200, and at one point it says 4K. The .com page doesn't have the same disparity. There are reviews on there of people using it for WMR and getting 90 FPS though. I'll contact the seller about it to confirm, but I believe it to be the right adapter.
There are a few straight lines of stuck pixels down the screen and it judders like it's not running 90hz. The adapter works fine with my TV (except for 5.1 audio, it only does stereo for some reason). This is the one I have: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDT0072/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 which seems like it should work based on the specs
If your HDMI monitor is 1080p/60hz, any eight dollar adapter should do you; if it's more than 1080p or more than 60hz, you need a more expensive active adapter.
I had this exact problem and I picked up this one from Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDT0072?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
This adapter is also Eyefinity compatible.
From what I've gathered I think I may need this adapter here http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDT0072?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&amp;smid=A1AMUYYA3CT6HJ but I am not sure so I'm hoping someone who knows for sure can help. :P
Thanks! I ended up picking this one up.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDT0072?colid=J8TXBYLP1VJO&amp;coliid=ISKLV60QE5KG8&amp;psc=1&amp;ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl
I'll let you know how it goes!
Buy this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDT0072/
I use it with my samsung odyssey and it works fantastic.
I’m familiar with active adapters, i just found this one on amazon after reading the comment and wanted to know the circumstances where one would cost so much compared to the one I found ($19 USD today)
Hey there! I do IT/SOHO Support on the side, so I feel like I could help you, but I am gonna need a few more details. I will provide brief explanations for the questions in parentheses which may solve your issue outright. Here we go!
EDIT: So just for perspective with my XFX RX480 8GB reference model: I have two monitors. One is connected through an Active Display Port --> DVI-D adapter --> DVI-D Monitor ( this adapter ) and the other monitor uses an HDMI (male) to DVI-D Male cable. If you are trying to use VGA, you would be best off spending money on a new monitor/tv. The tech to convert analog/digital signals is overpriced and full of issues.
Wow, I would have never figured this out on my own. Thank you.
Would you recommend something like this: https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-DVI-Adapter-1920x1200-Converter/dp/B004SUO1GM
Or this: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Eyefinity-Technology/dp/B00EDT01TO
great, I will be ordering this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B00EDT01TO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1413763655&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=active+displayport
I really can't thank you enough for all your help.
You need an active DP->DVI adapter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Eyefinity-Technology/dp/B00EDT01TO . Then you can go all the way up to 2560x1440.
I'm using a DVI-D cable and I know it supports 144hz because I've used the same DVI-D cable on my other computer to do 144hz only difference is I didn't have to use adapter. My 580 only has 3 mini hdmi and 1 Displayport. No DVi connections, hence the adapter.
EDIT: apparently I need an active adapter like this http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B00EDT01TO/ref=pd_sim_23_5?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41m4rhbeqmL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=0N4A2NJ4PNRV3PYCKPNA
I have a monitor similar to this, the Acer G276HLGbd which is just a VA panel instead of IPS. I use a DVI to DP adapter for it, and it's perfect. I use it as my side portrait monitor, but only had free Display Ports on my 980ti, so I got the adapter and it's great.
And more specifically, this is the adapter I'm using: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDT01TO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
No, but this will, http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B00EDT01TO/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1425530713&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=displayport+to+dvi+active+adapter
The difference is that this one is an active adapter, for some reason AMD requires an Active adapter for three screens.
I got it to work now. The problem is because I didn't plug my 24-pin all the way in. Right now after I turn on my pc, it takes about 20 sec for my monitor to turn on, is it because of the HDMI -> VGA being a passive adapter? I ordered a Displayport -> DVI from amazon, maybe that can help it?
Here is the link:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00EDT01TO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EDT01TO?psc=1
That's just plain false
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDT01TO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
That is the adapter I bought.
Ah, I forgot one detail that's really annoying. At least one of your monitors must be hooked up via displayport. My monitors don't have a DP input, so I went with an adapter instead. This one should work for you. Whatever you do, do not buy a passive adapter. It must be an active adapter.
I tried it with two converters
yes i would recommend the active displayport adapters to achieve 4x simultaneous displays.
curious - this one says its active. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDT01TO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
have you tried that one^ and the two mini-DP's only - leaving the VGA one out. i'd be interested to know if that gets you 3x displays.
Probably not. but look closely at the adapter you bought. It only supports 1920x1080.
So your not going to get your full QHD support.
Damn it, you have a point. It looks like an active adapter so I just jumped on it. I have Prime, so I guess I'll try again with this one. Thanks!
I already tried hdmi to hdmi and it didn't give me the option so im guessing its not 3.1 or above.
Would something like this be best?
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Adapter-Resolution/dp/B00JQORLCG/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=display+por+usb+converter&qid=1566421962&s=gateway&sr=8-10
> The HDMI spec's only single mention of DVI is a way to tell them apart when the same cable/connector is being employed, and only the DVI protocol has 1440p because you can have any random resolution.
The HDMI spec outlines the required interoperability with DVI, which means it's still part of the HDMI spec. There are a couple of sections on this.
> Finding plenty of examples of going from DisplayPort to DVI/HDMI-connector isn't relevant, the tech isn't bi-directional in this scenario.
They are examples of adaptor manufacturers supporting the particular resolution in DVI, illustrating that it's seen as commonplace enough to implement.
As I mentioned, in general I'm mainly talking about your initial statement about HDMI which I think is still misleading even if you include the word 'spec'.
As far as adaptors are concerned, I'm not arguing that it's likely a supporting adaptor will be released - it probably depends on demand. I can find examples of active adaptors supporting 1440p at 60Hz for example, it's perhaps just a bit more expensive+difficult to implement higher refresh rates.
> There might be some larger equipment somewhere that can accept DVI-over-HDMI and output it to DisplayPort, but you wouldn't call this an "adaptor"
There are active adaptors that provide 1440p from HDMI to DisplayPort, albeit not at higher refresh rates yet that I can find as mentioned. They are called just that: active adaptors, because circuitry is required for the translation. Just like my linked WMR adaptor examples. Maybe you're thinking of only passive adaptors?
> What you're asking for is both where the source is a HDMI connector.
I'm not "asking for" anything. I do however say that an active adaptor is not particularly out of the realm of possibility.
I'm guessing that even if an active adaptor supported the required resolution & refresh rate, there'd be some kind of timing issue anyway. I honestly don't care about an adaptor for the Oculus Rift S at all, I'm just debating your referring to HDMI's support.
> Write some code that uses 2 graphics cards that receives on one and outputs on the other, though everything needs to be there that the Rift S wants.
I'm not sure what you mean here - are you talking about using two graphics cards to do the job of an active adaptor?
(Like this one? https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Adapter-Resolution/dp/B00JQORLCG )
With all due respect, while you may work for a company that deals with video interface implementation, I don't think that either of us are really qualified to comment on the implementation of active adaptors.
Pretty sure HDMI to DVI will work both ways. I'm almost positive I've used them in such a way, but can't set up a test at the moment, so here's an avforums thread about it.
However, the poster is asking about HDMI to DisplayPort, which is different than DVI and is not bi-directional (another thread about it). Maybe you were saying "DVI" in place of "Displayport" by mistake?
I haven't tried this product, but this is the sort of thing you'd need:
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Adapter-Resolution/dp/B00JQORLCG
Would it work if I used a USB-C to HDMI, and then an HDMI to DisplayPort cable (https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B00JQORLCG?crid=1DLXWP1322SFN&amp;keywords=hdmi+to+displayport+cable&amp;qid=1537878934&amp;sprefix=hdmi+to+di%2Caps%2C164&amp;sr=8-9&amp;ref=sr_1_9)? Would that work?
You need an active adapter like this https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B00JQORLCG?crid=2R0HZ4YOJILF&amp;keywords=hdmi+to+displayport+cable&amp;qid=1538161300&amp;sprefix=hdmi+to&amp;sr=8-10&amp;ref=mp_s_a_1_10
Yeah, it should work fine. You might see some upscaling artifacts, though, as the PS4 outputs at 1080p, and not 1440p. They're usually not that bad. You will need an adapter.
EDIT:
Like one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B00JQORLCG/ref=sr_1_11_sspa?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1538154781&amp;sr=8-11-spons&amp;keywords=hdmi+to+displayport+cables&amp;psc=1Scratch that, that one won't work. This might: https://www.cablestogo.com/product/54179/hdmi-to-displayport-adapter-converter
Not the cable. The cable is for connecting a displayport device to an HDMI display.
You might as well buy a cheap TV.
The adapters you're describing sound as if they are standard directional adapters. You need an adapter that will adapt the Switch's HDMI output to a DisplayPort signal. Basically, the adapter needs to connect to the Switch deck and then a displayport cable from the adapter to the monitor.
As an example, this should work fine: Cable Matters HDMI to DisplayPort Adapter (HDMI to DP Adapter) Supporting 4K Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JQORLCG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FHvYBbC4XNTC9
Cable Matters HDMI to DisplayPort Adapter/HDMI to DP Adapter with 4K Video Resolution Support https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JQORLCG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_tHS2Cb73B7WW8
Something like this could work but might be capped at 60Hz. I wonder if the reviewer made sure he was getting 80Hz with the adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B00JQORLCG
Maybe this one?
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Adapter-Resolution/dp/B00JQORLCG
You'd need something like this and a matching displayport to mini displayport cable to connect.
so it looks like i'll need to buy these two things:
Cable Matters Gold Plated HDMI to DisplayPort Converter in Black
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00JQORLCG/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1
and this one:
AmazonBasics HDMI Coupler (2 Pack), 29 x 22mm, Black
https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-HDMI-Coupler-Pack-Black/dp/B06XR8RBTQ/ref=sr_1_7
then use a basic DP cable between monitor and adapter.
and use the coupler between Chromecast and adapter.
is that right?
Yeah, there aren't a lot of HDMI to DP options out there, but there are some.
One like this. Does your computer not output displayport? Note that you won't get 144hz outputting from the HDMI on your computer.
I ended up ordering this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JQORLCG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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And unfortunately it did not work. Power light was on for the adapter, but when I plugged the HDMI into my laptop it just didn't register anything. When I plug a normal HDMI display in it just switches over right away.
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Not sure if it would work with a more expensive/powerful one. I gave up for now.
Oculus have recommended these adapters:
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Gold-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B00K0UDYLM/
https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B086B-005B-2-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Passive/dp/B00DUTIYMY/
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Gold-Plated-Female-Adapter/dp/B007NLEF3W
This adapter is garaunteed to work for VR headsets and your monitor. https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-HDMI-Adapter/dp/B00K0UDYLM
I just bought this and it works with my Rift CV1 and Acer AH101 WMR headset.
If you buy a cheaper DP to HDMI adapter, it most likely will only work for your monitor as the cheap ones can't handle the bandwidth for high resolutions at high refresh rates needed for VR.
They claim this passive adapter supports up to 4k.
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Gold-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B00K0UDYLM/ref=sr_1_25?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511848642&amp;sr=1-25&amp;keywords=displayport+to+hdmi
edit: don't forget that the hdmi cable after the adapter must support atleast 1440p too, not the version 1 cables.
You can try and change brightness (lower it a bit) setting in video card options.
Connect HDMI cable from TV into HDMI port used by Rift then change those settings. It helped me with some problems I had with Rift.
You can also try and delete C:\Users\"User"\AppData\Locals\Oculus and do again whole setup.
There is also a method with Display Port 1.2 to hdmi 4k30hz passive adapter (it has more bandwitch to transwer image)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Adapter-Resolution-Noir-4K/dp/B00K0UDYLM/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510778942&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=Cable+Matters%C2%AE+Gold+Plated+DisplayPort+to+HDMI
Hope it helps. I did a lot of research into those problems.
Why are you using an adapter if you have a free hdmi port?
Also, why not get a male to male displayport cable and use displayport instead of hdmi if you lack hdmi?
On top of that, what adapter did you have? Why post this without posting the adapter you confirmed doesn't work?
For instance, in theory this adapter should work.
Wow, thanks so much for all your input. I really appreciate it. I wanted to have this thing set up by the weekend and decided to buy an adapter myself.
I hope it works just as well as the one you linked. I got it here: Cable Matters Gold-Plated DisplayPort to HDMI Male to Female Adapter - 4K Resolution Ready https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K0UDYLM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_XZmuxbBK3BNP5
So then just a regular adapter and not a 4k one?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005H3I38Q?ref=emc_b_5_t vs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K0UDYLM?ref=emc_b_5_t
Are you using this cable?
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Gold-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B00K0UDYLM/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
I'm looking at buying one and it seems this is the one everyones using to hook up to their Rifts and even Vives?
http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Gold-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B00K0UDYLM?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
Just wanted to chime in to say that I'm in the exact same situation as OP (can't pass Freesync through receiver to TV, can't pass 5.1 sound through TV to receiver).
I use the same solution as u/TheBigTimeOperator: connect to the receiver as a "second monitor" via DP-to-HDMI adapter (passive is fine for sound; I use this one), and connect directly to the TV via HDMI. The main issue is where to hide the desktop space for the "second monitor" so my mouse doesn't get lost offscreen -- I've set the resolution as small as possible and set it to the lower-left of my actual desktop. It definitely feels like a hack, but it works.
Woahhhh hope you didn't buy it yet. I just double checked your link, and it's not the same as mine. The one I bought was this. Which supports 4k, while the one you linked, the description says 1080p.
This DP-HDMI adapter is support only up to 1080p.
What you will need is a 4K adapter , something like this
https://www.amazon.co.uk/CableCreation-DisplayPort-Adapter-Support-Converter/dp/B013G4EXMM/ref=sr_1_20?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479891333&amp;sr=1-20&amp;keywords=hdmi+dp+adapter
or
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cable-Matters-Gold-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B00K0UDYLM/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479891466&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=hdmi+dp+adapter+cable+matters
I tried with an expensive active adapter (Club 3D) and I also had problems. I think your graphics card needs DisplayPort++ and you need a 4K passive DP->HDMI adapter.
There are a lot of reports (also on the Oculus Forums) that this one should work:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K0UDYLM/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I ordered it myself just yesterday but it will take up to somewhere next week to arrive.
I see !
Actually what I meant to say was I bought something similar from where I live (japan), this one
Am unsure exactly if it will work from HDMI to DP. Guess I will find out later today. Seems very difficult to find one that goes from HDMI out to DP in on amazon.jp, I have found this one
on amazon.com but it will take 2 weeks to get to me.
Yeah the repeater is so cheap it is worth it to add it just to have it. Another possible solution is this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K0UDYLM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
or this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035B4LJM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Because we are finding out the HDMI signal is weaker than the DVI and Display ports on a lot of graphics cards.
But like I said the repeater has made my extremely long cables work well I have consistently played for 2 hours now with no issues of any kind. Before the repeater the cable I linked to just didn't work at all... I had a black screen and my other cable I bought would work for a while then would drop the signal momentarily and come back on.
Personally I ordered all three of the options I presented and plan to test them all. Currently I am using what I presented to you first and want to use it for at least a couple days or until I have an issue if I find an issue I will move on to the next option and rinse and repeat. But as of now I am very confident the repeater is the way to go.
This is the exact cable i'm using on my EVGA GTX 970 SSC
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K0UDYLM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I have 3 monitors plugged in (2 dvi, 1 hdmi) and my vive plugged in via displayport using the cable I linked. works perfectly.
Im using a display port to HDMI adapter, going to my TV. Works fine no issues at all. Passes sound and everything
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K0UDYLM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
The one im using
I have the same problem with my Rift. It only worked for a couple hours connected to my HDMI right after I got it. The only way I can get it to work is by using a DisplayPort to HDMI or DVI to HDMI adapter.
I see you tried a DVI to HDMI adapter already, but some of the adapters I tried didn't work so it might be worth trying a different one.. I'm currently using this adapter.
This one works if you need one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K0UDYLM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
hey man my vive had problems too using the hdmi port on my 980 ti. I ended up fixing it by buying a hdmi to displayport adaptor and plugging the displayport into my graphics card instead. It may or may not help you, only $13 from amazon though.
Amazon Link
Do you know what adapter you have? I had trouble with 2 supposed 4k adapters before getting this one which has been working perfectly.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K0UDYLM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I don't know about getting your audio from your displayport though. I'm not sure if Rift has anything to do with that. Have you tried unplugging the rift and JUST pluggin in your 4k TV through the adapter?
I thought maybe something like that might be going on. I've read the same thing, and even in laptop cases where there's some level of hardware switching going on, that kind of setup (if it works at all) will add extra latency regardless of other performance penalties.
Thankfully there's a relatively cheap and easy solution. I use this to connect to my monitor: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K0UDYLM and leave the headset in the graphics card HDMI slot. Other brands will likely work, these are just the specific ones I use.
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I actually couldn't find any info on if my 980 TI supported dual-mode DisplayPort, but I figured it might since it was top-of-the-line when I bought it, so I just bought a passive adapter and tried it, and it worked. Since it can be hard to search for them, here's the passive adapter I'm using.
For anyone who comes along in the future with the same problem: I fixed mine by switching to a different adapter. I was using this active adapter before. Switching to the passive version of this adapter seems to have fixed whatever issue MacOS was having with transmitting the signal through the adapter. I don't know if the active adapter I got was faulty, and if replacing it with another of the same would also have fixed the issue. Either way it works as expected now so I'm happy!
You'll want Thunderbolt 2/DisplayPort 1.2 to HDMI 2.0. Something like this looks like it should do the job.
From what I've been reading, you need an active adapter to connect with the dock. Have you guys tried that?
Not every adapter works.
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I have this one and it works for Vive and Rift
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0BWR2K
-https://www.amazon.ca/HDMI-Cable-4-9ft-Super-Durable-PlayStation/dp/B074CF5184/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1532311140&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=HDMI%202.0&amp;dpID=41w27dMVEjL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
-https://www.amazon.ca/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0BWR2K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1532310720&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Active%20Mini%20DisplayPort%20to%20HDMI&amp;dpID=418787fzSfL&amp;preST=_SX300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
Oh interesting, thanks for the info! Assume the one below would work?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0BWR2K
Well, a little late to the discussion. Just want to point out that I have had good luck with the Plugable adapter for 4k 60hz HDMI 2.0 output to a 4k TV if somebody needs that functionality. There aren't too many options for this capability.....
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0BWR2K/
sadly the monitor doesn't have display port, I was thinking thunderbolt to display port then display port to HDMI female but I have no idea if it would work... its relatively inexpensive on amazon , Do you think this would work?
EDIT: Or how about this? https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0BWR2K?th=1
I got one of the recommended ones from amazon. The plugable 4K 60hz mini dp to hdmi adapter. It was pretty cheap.
Edit: this one
Hmmmm in that case I'd try a miniDP to HDMI 2.0a adapter? I believe they have to be an Active adapter for this like this one here!
I use this one on my dock Plugable Active Mini DisplayPort to HDMI Adapter (Supports displays up to 4k / UHD / 3840x2160@30Hz) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S0BWR2K/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_HuWGwb1MTAD5F
And I carry this one in my bag: Cable Matters 101020 Mini DisplayPort to HDMI/DVI/VGA Male to Female 3-in-1 Adapter, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ESM3ISM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_PvWGwbZ806VA3
I have had to restart my machine with the multi adapter but the first one really hasn't given me any problems.
I couldn't find the settings for refresh rate(on the TV) but I do have a 4K TV along with the AVR. Is there a recommended adapter/brand?
edit: clarity
dbl edit: Looks like this should do the trick?
When you say you bought an adapter do you mean an HDMI to Display Port adapter?
It has to be an active adapter. This is the one I purchased and it works flawlessly.
Plugable Active Mini DisplayPort to HDMI 2.0 Adapter (Supports displays up to 4k / UHD / 3840x2160@60Hz) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S0BWR2K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kOVPCbAFZS6YK
I used this one with SP3 dock (the vertical one) with this minidp->hdmi adaptor: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00S0BWR2K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You might want to try an adapter that does displayport to HDMI 2.0. I have a GTX 1070 and have issues with HDMI 2.0 4k 60hz. If I use the adapter from Displayport ti HDMI2.0 to the TV, it works fine.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S0C7QO8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S0BWR2K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I've bought both and tested with a Dell laptop with mini displayport out and it worked with 4k @ 60hz. I tested the full displayport adapter with a GTX 1080 with Win10 and GTX 1070 with OSX Sierra. Both work with 4K @60hz.
There is another brand as well at amazon, I would steer clear from it, it nearly burned out one of my video cards when I used it and burned out my HDMI cable and the adapter.
Here's a capable adapter (I'm using the full-size Displayport version of this adapter for 4K@60Hz@4:4:4 chroma):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S0BWR2K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;th=1
It needs to be paired with an HDMI cable though (which you can get for $6).
Edit: Contact the manufacturer regarding 2560x1080 @ 75Hz
Awesome, that is what I will have to do. I am going to try this adapter, it looks like the ticket. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S0BWR2K/
Yep! I used to have an AMD video card that required an active mini-DP adapter. I figure my screens weren't working because they were passive, so I tried this Plugable Active adapter. It received picture, but there was a funky flashing/choppy looking bit at the top of the screen. I will have to take a picture of it. Aside from the choppy bit, it worked fine, if I remember correctly.
What other mini-displayport to DP or HDMI (must be 4K compatible) are out there? I am pretty sure the HDMI cable I was using was 1.4 compliant.
Good question, I'll have to check the model number when I am back home. I am considering ordering:
https://amzn.com/B00S0BWR2K
download steam. download their SteamVR assessment tool maybe it's called VR readiness tool, I forget. post up your score. My laptop which does quite well- has a GTX 1060 maxQ, scores 6.4 or 6.6, if memory serves. Then go online and compare your score to other people and see their description of how well it performs.
as for a DP to HDMI adapter, the one microsoft recommends is this one: https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0C7QO8
It is by Plugable, and I've never had trouble with any of their stuff, though I've only owned a few pieces. For $20, it may be worthwhile to just check it out.
Why don't you just run 2 outputs from your PC?
Run your GPU's HDMI port into your Pioneer, and in Kodi/DSPlayer set that HDMI device as the selected audio device and enable your DD/DTS pass-through , etc.
Then if you don't have a second HDMI port, get a DP to HDMI adapter and run that to your TV.
I've run my system like this before and it works perfectly fine.
Here is a basic Active DP to HDMI adapter that should have no problem with full 18Gbit HDMI 2.0, or at least has no problems with it for me.
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0C7QO8
This should work.
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0C7QO8/
I have this one, works well - https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0C7QO8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511999502&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=displayport+to+hdmi+plugable&amp;psc=1
This is the adapter, it states:
>Supports resolutions up to 3840x2160 (4K) Ultra-HD @ 60Hz, 1080P@120Hz
Also reviews in the product says people got it to work 4k@60
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0C7QO8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511834789&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=plugable+displayport+to+hdmi&amp;psc=1
I just tried the VR headset > DP adapter and lo and behold it worked. I've only tried 1 little game so far but that worked as well as before. The reason I didn't think it would work is because my headset outputs at 2880x1440 apparently at 90hz(I wouldn't know how to check besides what the specs say) which is nearly same bandwidth as 4k@60. So I'm still curious as to why PC DP>Adapter>4K TV doesn't work, but I'm glad to have a workaround. I think it should be okay to have the TV in the HDMI port on my gpu, when I get another monitor down the road(will be a strange setup) that will have DP input so that should work seamlessly.
The only thing I still have a problem with is my computer says its in multi-display mode even with the VR unplugged and the only monitor plugged in is the TV. Device Manager says there is a Generic Non-PnP Monitor on the integrated GPU and a Generic PnP Monitor on my gtx 1060. Any idea why this could be?
Thank you so much
Plugable Active DisplayPort to HDMI Adapter (Supports displays up to 4K / UHD / 3840x2160@30Hz) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00S0C7QO8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_KiopxbC66XZ5H
So this would be what im looking for? I've never even heard of Displayport before today so sorry if this is obvious, haha
I may be misunderstanding, but I had an issue once with using a display port output with an HDMI monitor. When I used a straight DP to HDMI cable, it wouldn't work. BUT then, I found out that I needed an "active" DP to HDMI cable/adapter. The adapter cost me about $20.
Active Display Port to HDMI adapter
If you really did get cheated, don't just take the loss. eBay has an interest in keeping up their reputation as being generally safe for buyers.
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0C7QO8 Here, this wouldn't work at the 144hz experimental mode, but if you could turn down the resolution to 1080p you could do it at 120hz standard. Would this work
I just started having this problem after adding a display port to dvi adapter. It is not clear yet if the adapter is to blame or I’m just noticing it now that the headset is plugged in full time.
display to dvi adapter
Your best bet is a somewhat not outdated to hell video card that properly supports hdmi 2.0 .
Also 1920x1200 is a 16:10 ratio NOT 16:9 , your tv is best with a 16:9 ratio
with your current card the best you could output to that tv and it look correct would be 2560x1440 (1440p) 16:9 ratio
you could do this with an ACTIVE DVI > hdmi adapter that supports full updated hdmi spec , You would then use the DVI ports on your video card (as thats the ports that support the resolution you would need )
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0C7QO8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495939443&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=dvi+to+hdmi+active
That being said , just buy a new video card. Don't try to hack a old card to get it to work with a modern TV with HDMI . just buy a new card , it doesn't have to be to fancy , almost anything around 60 / 100 bucks would be way better then what you have . grab a used one on craigslist or something , then you can just use HDMI directly .
Good luck man !
I think this might be the way to go for the laptop / monitor.
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0C7QO8/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494948300&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=dvi+to+hdmi+2.0
Honestly thinking of just dumping the gaming rig and using the laptop only. Its got an i7 and can do eGPU. ThinkPads are pretty cool. Thats another project though. I might try this DP to HDMI I liked for this project.
You need an active displayport adapter for it to work at 90HZ. The Pluggable adapter is the one Microsoft even recommends and can be found for under $19USD/$26CAD on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0C7QO8?th=1&amp;psc=1
Depends on what resolution you're running and what version the adapter is, but I guess you're not trying to run 4k @100hz with a 1070 anyway so you'll probably be good. Your TV won't have display port features if it doesn't have display port.
This is probably what you're looking for
Yes. But there are much cheaper ones available.
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0C7QO8/
This one: Plugable Active DisplayPort to HDMI 2.0 Adapter (Supports displays up to 4K / UHD / 3840x2160@60Hz) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S0C7QO8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_A6SuzbDP7NTBB
Works perfect for me. Game 4K60 all day (well, for the few titles that'll allow me to push it that high 😁)
You'll need an active DisplayPort 1.2 to HDMI 2.0 adapter. I used the Plugable adapter between my 290x and original Odyssey just because it was the one recommended on the windows support page. It worked well.
I had a Club3D adapter that I used to connect to my tv which didn't work with the Odyssey. It had a strange sizing issue between the HDMI port on the adapter and the Odyssey. I simply couldn't plug them into each other, though other HDMI cables and ports worked with each.
USB C to displayport and then displayport active adapter to HDMI 2.0 should do the trick.
According to the specs on this page:
https://www.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/thinkpad/thinkpad-e-series/ThinkPad-E580/p/22TP2TEE580
You do have DisplayPort over the USB C port.
EDIT:
If you're curious, these are the Adapters I have:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074TTB7XQ
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S0C7QO8
I had to buy an Active displayport adapter to make it work with my TV, I have the Asus 280x directCU II TOP
That DP to HDMI adapter seems suspect. Seems like 29um58 doesn't have DP input, so your best bet is probably to look around for a better adapter/cable. The older ones mostly do only up to 1200p, you need a newer one like this.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0C7QO8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504090610&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=plugable+dp+to+hdmi
This one works fine for me
You'd want one of the following:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0C7QO8/
Or
https://www.amazon.co.uk/ICZI-Plated-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter/dp/B01M8PGQDF/
AS WELL AS
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Primewire-Cable-Ethernet-channel-bandwidth-Black/dp/B01MYXKDU8
(in whatever color/length would work for you)
That one you referenced would only give you 1080p or 1920x1200, rather than 4K @ 60Hz.
4k is a gray area for hdmi. Since ultimately you're limited to the data rate of HDMI that's where your issue lies. It looks like you'd need an active adapter for this to work. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0C7QO8
You don't mention what you're using to convert from displayport to HDMI though.
wow i missed that yes your right that monitor only does higher than 60hz via dvi or displayport. his solution would be to get and active display port to hdmi adapter which would solve that.
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0C7QO8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520283801&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=displayport+to+hdmi+adapter+hdmi+2.0
or
https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-UVOOI-Display-Adapter-Lenovo/dp/B071J3SLFV/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520283870&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=displayport+to+hdmi+cable+hdmi+2.0
Same issues here. Initially I hooked up my 4k TV to the HDMI 2.0 port, and the Oculus Rift used a DP-HDMI converter. But in some games (mostly Robo Recall), I had a problem where the Rift display would begin flashing black after a minute or so in-game. Eventually I decided to troubleshoot it, and removed cable extenders / adapters / etc until I found the problem. My conclusion was for me, Robo Recall worked fine with the Rift plugged in over HDMI, but not with the DP-HDMI adapter.
There are decent DP-HDMI adapters now that support 4k/60Hz. I bought this one recently and it's working fine:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S0C7QO8/
So I use that to connect my TV.
Yea, I'm sure the DP to HDMI adapter is Active. Here's the exact one I bought and tried using:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S0C7QO8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Damn, so using the DVI-I (using a DVI-I to DVI-D connector) isn't even an option for my 4th spot on the GTX 970 anyways? I hadn't updated my drivers in a while, which I did last night... still not working. Ahhhhh
Buy yourself a DisplayPort to HDMI 2.0 adapter
I have that one, but there are lots available.
> https://www.accellcables.com/products/displayport-1-2-to-hdmi-2-0-adapter
I think I must have the older version of that monitor and you the newest one because on Samsung's website it says *Supports HDMI 1.4 (3840 x 2160, 30 Hz) and Display Port 1.2 (3840 x 2160, 60 Hz)
Also I just picked up a similar adapter ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S0C7QO8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 ) and it gets no signal. I think for those adapters to work the console has to have a display port output and only works one way not both, which makes 0 sense to me =(
My DVI slot is already taken by my second screen x)
I found this adapter : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S0C7QO8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I use this, works great.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00S0C7QO8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S0C7QO8/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
would this let me get the 144hz at 1080p?
Would this work? Did some more reading and saw 'active' adaptors mentioned
I purchased this adapter and yeah it works flawlessly so far.
I bought this and it works great.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00S0C7QO8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gofanco-Active-DVI-D-Converter-Black/dp/B01FL7H7HA/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484854418&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=dvi-d+to+vga
https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-Gold-Plated-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00ZMV7RL2/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484854457&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=hdmi+to+vga
Finally i found a solution, with this everything working absolutely fine!
https://www.amazon.it/Rankie-Placcato-Adattatore-Convertitore-Ricarica/dp/B00ZMV7RL2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484991854&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=adattatore+vga+to+hdmi
Ethernet can be taken right from the mobo, 144hz will look great on games that can run above 60 fps. You will need speakers/headphones/some other form of sound transferring and lastly, if you have an older monitor and it doesn't have a dvi/hdmi port, make sure you get an adapter such as this: https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-Gold-Plated-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00ZMV7RL2/ref=sr_1_cc_4?s=aps&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485730351&amp;sr=1-4-catcorr&amp;keywords=vga+to+hdmi
This simple adapter should work. If it works for connecting a VGA projector to an HDMI output device, it will work for any GPU with an HDMI port too.
I think you misunderstood Sayakai. The first adapter likely only changes the pinout (so that the cables fit together), so if there is a digital signal going in, there is a digital signal coming out. That wouldn't work with your monitor. The second adapter will only work with a certain type of DVI which has 4 additional pins for an analogue video signal. So you could use a connector that takes that analogue signal and re-route it to match the VGA cable.
So in other words:
If you want to display a digital video signal (pretty much any except VGA) on an analogue monitor (VGA) you have to convert the signal. If your future GPU offers the DVI type mentioned by Sayakai (with the additional analogue signal on the 4 extra pins), you can buy such a simple adapter. Otherwise you'll need an adapter that will convert the signal from digital to analogue.
___
tl;dr:
For plugging your current monitor into HDMI, click on the link at the top of the post
I don't have any dvi outputs left; just hdmi ones. should I buy one of these or some other brand variant of it?:
https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-Gold-Plated-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00ZMV7RL2/ref=sr_1_11?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484485014&amp;sr=1-11&amp;keywords=vga+to+hdmi
This is the one I’m using.
Rankie HDMI to VGA Adapter with 3.5mm Audio Port - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZMV7RL2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Kh1jDbY33RTV6
It actually says that the 5V is optional, but I have no video signal without it.
you can use HDMI to VGA active adapter like this http://www.unitek-products.com/ct/product_detail.php?id=435
I use one myself and it's working flawlessly.
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Active-Adapter-Micro-USB/dp/B00879DM56
https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-Gold-Plated-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00ZMV7RL2/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474646025&amp;sr=1-1-spons&amp;keywords=hdmi+to+vga&amp;psc=1
Don't know about wireless charging, but I bought this splitter. One side is for my USB reader/micro SD card. The other side for the included charging dock cable. Works fine.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KX4TKH6
Interesting. I actually have a usb splitter so I can run a ssd in the car. That means one of the two cables to the wireless pad is power-only. I'll check to see if it's the one side that is functional. Thanks =)
&#x200B;
edit: heres the cable https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KX4TKH6/
Just checked and the one with this splitter is the one functioning. So I ordered a second one. Will allow me to add a second ssd to boot.
a usb stick, which shouldnt draw or need the kind of power an SSD would. here is the splitter i am using.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KX4TKH6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Same, cost $5.99 on Amazon works great with the v9 DashCam and the Nomad.
You can buy a simple splitter from Amazon so that you have both chargers and the USB flash drive. I'm using one in my Model 3 at the moment for MP3s.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KX4TKH6/
I’m same issue here. I got this and it works great. Plug the charger into the power side. (You would need two if you want both sides of the mat to work... I’m assuming a software update will fix it so I only went with one.)
Onvian USB Splitter Cable Male to 2 Female Adapter USB A Cord 2 Port Hub for Data Charging Syncing (Only one Port for Data) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KX4TKH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZfvQCbQ4TFQBZ
I cheated by using a USB splitter that's connected to the neutrik internally.
Onvian USB Splitter Cable Male to 2 Female Adapter USB A Cord 2 Port Hub for Data Charging Syncing (Only one Port for Data) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KX4TKH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oN8UCbQ27D72K
The red port is where the LED strip plugs into. The unmarked plug the one that goes into the brook UFB
The other way is to cut the USB cable and run the red cable to the VCC screw terminal and the black to one of the GND screw terminals
90% sure it came with this one
Onvian USB Splitter Cable Male to 2 Female Adapter USB A Cord 2 Port Hub for Data Charging Syncing (Only one Port for Data) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KX4TKH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_N44SCbN2QBG8Y
I have Rift S working on the USB-C port of my RTX2070 GPU without any problem. I bought the adapter from amazon:
https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B01GGKYXVE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Literally any bluetooth mouse is fine or usb wire/less + USB C OTG wire (like this one). You can't charge the Tab while using a USB mouse unless you get another adapter so I'd probably recommend the bluetooth option unless you want to use it with more devices
Over USB, yes. I saw some video on youtube where a guy hooked up a midi keyboard (I think a keystep?) with a little usb type a to type c adapter (like this). You'll need the adapter unless you have a midi keyboard with USB-C out.
I should say: I’ve noticed all these same problems when docked with the LAN adapter connected. Undocked, but using a USB-C OTG adapter in handheld mode works with the LAN adapter. So strange.
My LAN adapter and USB-C adapter info:
Plugable USB 3.0 to Ethernet Gigabit LAN Network Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQM8586/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qstUCbGS6NV4Y
AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB 3.1 Gen1 Female Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYXVE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8qtUCbXYAKV0X
Does anyone know any good USB-C Chargers that actually supply the full 18w to an undocked switch? For example, is this charger good for it? I heard the Google Pixel 18w charger is good. Also, if I use a female USB-A to C adapter with my Pro Controller cable (example), would that support the full 18w charging?
I'd like a cheaper, USB-C both ends cable recommendation too.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-Gen1-Female-Adapter/dp/B01GGKYXVE/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=usbc+otg&qid=1570309691&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE0OEdBSk9SSjJJRzAmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA2MTg1OTkxWDcxS09WUVVYNVhBJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA3NTQ1OTAyN1dWRFYzUjFDQU1EJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
I assume you have a usb 2.0 cable that has a boxy end for your interface and a regular usb on the other end. If that is the case, then yes, just buy a usb ->usb C adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYXVE/ref=asc_df_B01GGKYXVE5402270/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;creative=394997&amp;creativeASIN=B01GGKYXVE&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=167140037427&amp;hvpos=1o2&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=16667002832637365162&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=c&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9002228&amp;hvtargid=pla-297577282206
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-Gen1-Female-Adapter/dp/B01GGKYXVE/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?adgrpid=55679860786&amp;hvadid=274680325131&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvlocphy=1026339&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvpos=1t1&amp;hvqmt=e&amp;hvrand=17124843397259425697&amp;hvtargid=kwd-298730157598&amp;keywords=usb%2Bc%2Bto%2Ba%2Badapter&amp;qid=1555878299&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-5&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
This one works well for me:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GGKYXVE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Just need one of these to get going.... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GGKYXVE/ref=crt_ewc_img_dp_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
I use [this](Onvian USB Splitter Cable Male to... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KX4TKH6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share) with a Jeda and flash drive.
Edit: Not sure if link worked on mobile: Onvian USB Splitter Cable Male to... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KX4TKH6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
If you have some basic electronics experience you can solder your own cable together to fit you specifically. If you don't want to go down that route try these and just duct tape the connections together so they don't come loose
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KX4TKH6
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07232M876/
I have no experience with the 3rd party versions, but the official Tesla one is just part of the car. It feels like it was always there and will last with the car.
It was tough to justify the price, but I’m glad I did.
I got two Onvian splitters, neatly plugged in, wound up on themselves and used some black electrical tape to tuck everything up behind the pad. Thumb drive is up in there a bit, but accessible. Same with the ‘spare’ open USB port.
Onvian USB Splitter Cable Male to 2 Female Adapter USB A Cord 2 Port Hub for Data Charging Syncing (Only one Port for Data) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KX4TKH6
I read somewhere that a couple of updates ago Tesla disabled charging on the front USB ports and you have to use a USB splitter (data only + charge only) to charge again. Something like https://www.amazon.com/Onvian-Splitter-Adapter-Charging-Syncing/dp/B01KX4TKH6/
I just installed the Nomad charger myself and wasn’t able to use the supplied splitter with my ssd (the dashcam button wouldn’t appear when plugged in over the splitter). For whatever reason it works fine with the Onvian splitter Onvian USB Splitter Cable Male to... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KX4TKH6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Here is the desktop version of your link
Absolutely. I use this:
HDMI to VGA, 1080P with Audio Port, Rankie Gold-Plated Active HDMI HDTV to VGA Adapter Converter Male to Female with Micro USB & 3.5mm Audio Port Cable
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00ZMV7RL2/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_8wLIxb08B714K
There are lots of different ones, just check reviews as some seem to be terrible.
Btw, the one I have seems to have a micro usb in for power, yet works perfectly fine without - no idea what that's about.
Edit: here's a little $0.96 version
http://s.aliexpress.com/jEFv2AFb
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rankie-Gold-Plated-Active-Adapter-Converter-Black/dp/B00ZMV7RL2/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510607341&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=hdmi-to-vga&amp;psc=1
By old monitor blue cables do you mean VGA? If yes, no modern GPU that you'd actually want to use has that. But if it is an absolute must, there are HDMI to VGA adapters available. In regards to the i7, I'm going to assume your main focus is gaming, and you want the option to stream, run programs in the background etc. For that, a Ryzen 5 1600 would absolutely have you covered. Ya don't NEED an i7 until you're dealing with heavy editing, encoding, VM workloads. Out of time at the moment, but I'll get back to you later tonight with some recommendations and answers/thoughts on your other questions.
HDMI is all digital, VGA is analog. The only way a normal HDMI to VGA cable would work is if the device you have can output VGA signal over HDMI, not common, and not likely your phone.
What you need is an active converter if you want to use your phone. Something like this should work, though you might have to have a USB plugged in to power it. Phones don't often output much power if any over HDMI.
So... It didn't work. It has an HDMI output too so if I got a HDMI to VGA + audio it should work right? I'm looking at this but i'm not sure if it would work still, people are using it with laptops not DVD players, and how do you know if it needs the micro usb power without actually trying it?
Even the cheapest ones like these?
https://www.amazon.it/Rankie-Adattatore-Displayport-1080P-Nero/dp/B00Z08TZNU/ref=sr_1_3?__mk_it_IT=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=1RQ76GIUVTC9S&keywords=displayport+vga&qid=1561993616&s=gateway&sprefix=displayport%2Caps%2C176&sr=8-3
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.it/Rankie-Adattatore-1080P-Micro-Uscita/dp/B00ZMV7RL2/ref=sr_1_3?__mk_it_IT=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&keywords=hdmi+vga&qid=1561993642&s=gateway&sr=8-3
https://www.amazon.de/Rankie-Adapter-Vergoldet-Konverter-Micro-USB-Ladekabel-Schwarz/dp/B00ZMV7RL2/ref=pd_sbs_147_1/260-0999135-0056017?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00ZMV7RL2&pd_rd_r=d91da53c-9f1c-11e9-b611-dbb65504b816&pd_rd_w=Gdtx8&pd_rd_wg=h0A99&pf_rd_p=74d946ea-18de-4443-bed6-d8837f922070&pf_rd_r=E5BZ8CH6SG8VFT4N86JA&psc=1&refRID=E5BZ8CH6SG8VFT4N86JA i will be getting this then
There is hdmi to vga but they usually require power.
https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-HDMI-Adapter-3-5mm-Audio/dp/B00ZMV7RL2
Also will need to plug in a usb cord into the device and the pc to power it.
No, but there is a pretty problem that’s even worse than lag. This particular extractor appears to be low quality/temperamental/mate not compatible with NES and SNES Classic. I think the device checks for and HDMI connection, and it doesn’t get the right feedback, and it shuts off. I can trick it by plugging an HMDI cord in and then letting boot up before putting the extractor in, but that’s not gonna work.
I’ve ordered this one
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZMV7RL2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WOcZAbYG5BWYE
instead, based on another thread I found here.
Edit: spelling and link to referenced thread:
https://www.reddit.com/r/miniSNES/comments/78lj94/how_to_use_snes_classic_with_a_monitor/?st=JFT3HHZ9&amp;sh=99cd00fe
So this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rankie-HDMI-Adapter-3-5mm-Audio-Black/dp/B00ZMV7RL2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519742867&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=vga+adapter with a VGA to VGA cable and I'd be good?
Quick amazon UK link.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rankie-HDMI-Adapter-3-5mm-Audio-Black/dp/B00ZMV7RL2/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540051440&amp;sr=8-5&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=hdmi+to+vga&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41zAuS64hsL&amp;ref=plSrch
Is this what you have? Because its what you will need.
DVI-I is basically two ports in one - a digital DVI-D and a analogue VGA. All the new video cards from 2016 - all GTX 10x0 and RX-4x0 and 5x0 - have removed the VGA part and only includes the DVI-D.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digital_Visual_Interface#/media/File:DVI_pinout.svg
If you look at any new card, the 4 big analogue pins are gone.
If you want to keep using a VGA only monitor, you will need an active converter, e.g.
https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-Gold-Plated-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00ZMV7RL2
VGA to HDMI adapters exist. I think all you need is a cheap cord/adapter. just make sure it has audio output separate otherwise the audio from the hdmi is lost
This might be what you need
The second monitor is only VGA? You likely need a converter not just a plug adapter. You’re trying to take a digital signal (HDMI) and make it analog (VGA). You’d need something like this.
Rankie HDMI to VGA Adapter with 3.5mm Audio Port - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZMV7RL2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_psj0CbKBAWEH4
I’ve never used this so I’m not recommending this particular one, it’s just an example of the type of adapter you’d need.
HDMI ones are even cheaper.
https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-Gold-Plated-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00ZMV7RL2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501438592&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=hdmi+vga+active
Would something like this work?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZMV7RL2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_NZoAzbAN7WNBW
https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-Gold-Plated-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00ZMV7RL2
You could use something like this. Which - according to the reviews - actually works:
https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-Gold-Plated-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00ZMV7RL2
And then get a DVI-D to HDMI cable to connect your main monitor.
I would try one of these if I were you. Converting between analog and digital signals can be tricky, but if this works it works and it's only $10.
Not a problem. I use one of these. Rankie HDMI to VGA Adapter with 3.5mm Audio Port - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZMV7RL2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_65qPDbBNV4VB9
It has an audio splitter built in it to pull the audio from the HDMI also. Makes hooking it all up pretty easy.
Could I use this one?
https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-Vergoldet-Adapter-Konverter-Micro-USB-Ladekabel/dp/B00ZMV7RL2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1502800741&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=VGA+to+HDMI
https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-Gold-Plated-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00ZMV7RL2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479069963&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=hdmi+to+vga&amp;psc=1
They do work but they need to be active. DVI-I / DVI-A to VGA are passive conversion, that is nothing needs to be done to the signals for them to work, but obviously since neither DVI-D or HDMI actually carry the analog signal that won't work.
Used DisplayPort versions of these before so they should be good
https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Adapters/1080P-Audio-Rankie-Plated-Active-Converter-Female/B00ZMV7RL2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500451941&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=HDMI+to+VGA
You can transcode the HDMI to VGA lagless with something like this - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZMV7RL2
And then use the OSSC to integer scale up.
This one works perfectly for me for both my NESC and SNESC: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZMV7RL2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It is a powered adapter...not sure if the other one you had is...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ZMV7RL2/
Plug into Xbox, then get a VGA cable to go from the adapter to your PJ.
i ordered the one you linked above, this one that a guy had reviewed and talked a bit about on his own blog for a similar reason, and then ordered a replacement for the one i have now just in case it's just a faulty adapter. here's hoping at least one works.
&#x200B;
thanks for all your help, btw. knowing the vernacular and all that had thrown me for a loop, but i think i at least understand the basics of my problem now.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZMV7RL2/
I use that to hook my computer up to an old projector. Works great.
You're right that VGA does not carry audio, neither does DVI (usually). If you want audio from your NESC you'll need to either hook up to your tv with HDMI or use something like what I linked above that can give you a separate audio cable.
This should work, I use this for my workplace (newer laptops are HDMI only now with no VGA) projector. Works like a charm.
https://amzn.com/B00ZMV7RL2
Nope, this motherboard supports integrated graphics :)
This is the kind of adaptor you will need for the one port so you can use both monitors, unless your monitors have a Display Port input.
I use this one, probably the same circuitry, $1 cheaper. Not that much of a difference ;)
https://www.amazon.ca/Rankie%C2%AE-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter-Female/dp/B010SDZZ80/ref=sr_1_25?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462418369&amp;sr=1-25-spons&amp;keywords=DP1.2+DisplayPort+to+HDMI&amp;psc=1
Possibly. I'm using this adapter without issue.
Come to think of it, the Optiplex 960 has an integrated DisplayPort on the back. Although I'm not sure if that particular version of the port supports HDMI audio (it's not labeled as D++, so my assumption is "probably not"), you can get HDMI video out of it just by buying a cheap passive cable converter.
One of these (Brand is not too important, this is just one of the cheaper ones that came up in a quick search): https://www.amazon.com/Rankie®-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter-Converter/dp/B010SDZZ80/
If you've got a discrete card in the machine the integrated is probably auto-disabled, so you'd need to turn it on (generally something like "Intel multi-screen" or whatever) in the BIOS. Both discrete and integrated GPUs can work together to give you desktop room in this case.
Passive Displayport to HDMI adapter costs 9$ at amazon or ebay, I'm using two myself, even my 2012 Thinkpad t420 has no problem with a passive adapter.
Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Rankie%C2%AE-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter-Converter/dp/B010SDZZ80/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467782521&amp;sr=1-8&amp;keywords=displayport+to+hdmi
Maybe you can get HDMI to DP adaptor instead?
im trying to run a 3 monitor setup but i am confused as to how to proceed, 2 will be used as dual and 1 will be mirroed (tv for movies and etc)
the plugs i have to work with are hdmi,display port and vgi.
For some reason my other hdmi plug and vga,vgi dont seem to connect so im thinking that the lower 3 i listed is the only combination that i can get this too work (sorry if confusing but i tried everything and at my wits end trying to get it to work)
monitor 1 (hp 22er) Monitor 2 (acer x223w) (monitor 3 that will mirror monitor 1 Vizio sv470m)
graphics card geforce gtx 750 ti
if it help my setup with 2 monitors (they just mirrowed each other ) was hdmi (to my vizio and vgi cable acer to pc)
this is what i found that could work but im unsure if i got the right male to female thing. for display port at the back of my pc to connect it to a hdmi cable from my tv
https://www.amazon.ca/Rankie-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter-Converter/dp/B010SDZZ80/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495850675&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=dp+to+hdmi+female
if anyone as a better solution or anything il appreciate it and thanks in advance
edit: after looking more into it in the long run would i be better off with this ? would it even work ?
https://www.amazon.ca/Goronya-Splitter-Amplifier-Support-Ultra/dp/B01EN64WQE/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_t
In fact, these support 4k and are cheaper than the others I linked. These work well in my experience also. I'd go for these instead.
No, they have DisplayPort. I've used one of these adapters with them and they work fine.
https://smile.amazon.com/Rankie-DisplayPort-Adapter-Resolution-Converter/dp/B010SDZZ80/ref=sr_1_11?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1539018005&amp;sr=1-11&amp;keywords=displayport+to+hdmi
This is the one I use. I don’t think that having an active adapter matters, but I’ve read some testimonies towards active when using extension cables. I haven’t had any luck with extension cables though so I just run the headset straight into this adapter.
Rankie DisplayPort (DP) to HDMI Adapter, 4K Resolution Ready Converter Audio, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010SDZZ80/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vof5Bb7E1Q9BP
Rankie DisplayPort (DP) to HDMI Adapter, 4K Resolution Ready Converter with Audio, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010SDZZ80/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pbIzCbXCST0EP
Display Port carries audio too.
I'm still waiting for my Rift actually, it arrives in another week, so not sure yet. But if you'd like I can report back when I get everything setup.
10m Active USB.3.0 Extensions (for front sensors)
3m USB 3.0 Extension (for HMD)
3m HDMI Extension (for HMD)
HDMI to DP Adapter (For GPU)
USB 3.0 PCI-E Card (to power the 10m active extensions)
I've read good things about all of these, with a lot of success stories. Hopefully all goes well on my end.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B010SDZZ80/
that is the one i am looking at. is it only one way or how does it work? sorry for the bad photo but i am running an evga gtx 1060 3gb SC with 3x DP 1x HDMI
This should do the trick :)
This one
Hey, thanks for the reply. These are the adapters:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B010SDZZ80/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This one.
I was thinking more like this http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B010SDZZ80/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1458172396&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=hdmi+to+displayport+adapter&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41uzDtqfZXL&amp;ref=plSrch
Nothing special. But yes, one in each slot. You should have quite a few slots.
I've been carrying this thing around since I got my phone. https://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Resistor-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG
I have a 6p also. In all honesty its about as annoying as having a MicroUSB port on your new phone when everyone was still using the MiniUSB port. Give it another year or two and it will be fine. For now I just carry around one of these in my pocket.
Its not the first charge port transition thats happened. Its just that it seems more pronounced because there finally is a "Standard" port that everyone settled on instead of having crazy proprietary charging connectors like back in the flip phone days.
These are the ones I'm currently using.
https://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Resistor-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG/
The important thing is to look in the reviews for Benson Leung's stamp of approval. His review is pretty much always the highest-rated one if he reviewed the product. If he hasn't reviewed a particular adapter or if he doesn't give it five stars, then stay clear.
I have been using an adapter I bought on Amazon (bought it for my 6P) and it does indeed charge. No dash of course, but it works.
It also works for file transfers to a PC.
https://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Resistor-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG
I have this one, but I don't see why the one you bought wouldn't work.
Just use one of these USB C to micro USB adapters with any of the old cables you already have:
TechMatte USB-C to Micro USB Adapter Convert Connector for HTC 10, LG G5, Nexus 5X, Nexus 6P, OnePlus 2 with 56k Resistor; Approved to Meet USB Type-C Standard (2-Pack, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0151RKYBG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Sv1pxbV9H6YMF
it is a bit of a pain, you have to order stuff from amazon so there is an added expense. You can just get some converters for a few bucks and use your existing stuff 'non fastly' (I'll trademark that later). Or you can buy C's and charge fastly. I bought one a to c cable for my wife to transfer to the computer... apparently one does not just wifi transfer to the hard drive in our house.
http://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Resistor-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463677760&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=usb+a+to+c like 8 bucks for 2, so 4 bucks each
Some definitely are. Fortunately, Benson Leung does reviews for them. Here's one he recommends.
Yes, I use a USB C adapter for many microUSB cables. I bought a three-pack of them from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Resistor-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
There's a bunch of hullaballoo about getting "certified" USB C cables, but I can't make heads or tails about what the internet is saying. In the end, I just spent 15 minutes on Amazon reading reviews and questions/answers, and then tried to find which item read "certified" the most in the page using CTRL+F...it seems to have worked for me.
They sell mini adapters that take a Micro-B input to a C output. One came with my Honor 8 before I switched to pixel. I'm not sure about charging speeds though.
Edit:
Here's an example of one:
TechMatte Micro USB to USB C Adapter, Converts Micro USB Female to USB C Male (2 Pack, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0151RKYBG/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_G27CDbZMWVKF1
They make cheap adapters, they work great.
But don't they come with a little converter that you can put on a micro usb cable?
(my father has one he put in his wallet for whenever he needs it)
Edit: sorry, he had the S8, and he bought it on the side. This is the plug thingy
This is basically what I did. I bought those little "nubby" USB-C to microUSB adapters and just keep an extra in my bag and in my car. I bought 4 of them in case I lose them as they are so small! lol
The car does not show anything related to my phone at any time (other than bluetooth connectivity related stuff).
I've ordered these to give a try: http://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Resistor-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG so in a couple days I'll know if that fixes the problem.
When everything's working properly, do you have to open Android Auto on your phone, or does just plugging it in get everything working?
The OP2 has a USB 2 type C connector. It's a pain, but you have to use a USB C to Micro B and then an OTG. This is what I use.https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0151RKYBG/
Right, I don't believe Fi is available outside the US.
I had purchased a pack of A- micro cables a few months before switching phones - I really liked the 1' length in the car.
I got a 2 pack of these techmatte adapters, and use 1 in the car and 1 on the cable to connect to my PC. I also used a little bit of heat shrink wrap to help make them stay on the cables a little better.
I am thinking about getting a true quick charge compatible car charger and an extra c-c cable for that, as I've noticed that with streaming music, gps, bright screen, and other things, the phone drains faster than the current charger can keep up.
so those adapters will make it so you have some extra charging options, albeit slower charging than the charger that came with the phone.
These ones follow the spec and are reviewed by Benson
http://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Resistor-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459159116&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=micro+usb+to+usb+c
Well of course not! :-)
I was just trying to point out that the concept already exists.
So with an alternate adaptor like this one and ear buds like these (all though these look like crap) you could do what this crowd funded thing is trying to do now.
http://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Upgraded-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG
Would love to get this one but they don't ship to Toronto
Which one do you use?
I bought this and it bootlooped my phone.
http://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Upgraded-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449872881&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=micro+to+usb+c
This one has been tested by a Google engineer. Great reviews. USB-C to Micro USB Adapter, TechMatte USB Type C to Micro USB Convert Connector for OnePlus 2, Nexus 5X 2015, Nexus 6P; Upgraded and Approved to Meet USB-C Standard (2-Pack, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0151RKYBG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_0R5AwbVEV7PYX
https://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Resistor-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG
Would one of these work?
TechMatte USB-C to Micro USB Adapter Convert Connector for Nexus 5X 2015, Nexus 6P, OnePlus 2, with 56k Resistor; Approved to Meet USB Type-C Standard (2-Pack, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0151RKYBG/ref=cm_sw_r_em_awd_mpPQwbXTZ5KDG
I just bought this and am waiting for it to come on Monday.
http://www.amazon.com/TechMatte-Connector-Upgraded-Approved-Standard/dp/B0151RKYBG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1451755736&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+micro+to+usb+c
Also check out the Techmatte mini to C adapters on amazon. They are tiny and just slip onto your normal chargers you're used to. They won't charge any faster or anything, but they are Benson approved and they are pretty grippy when they go on, so you shouldn't have to worry about it popping off.
Charged mine last night with an older blackberry blade AC charger and the adapter on it. Worked just fine, no heat up or anything.
here's a link
Are there any other chargers that I can use which will rapidly charge and not cause the issue?
But then you would have two separate devices instead of 2 cords? If that's not the case then you would only need to have the one USB to USB C cord and not two right?
Also you don't need another cable either. Something like this will work too.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0151RKYBG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
micro b to type c, and a micro b y cable?
i know type c will not let you do it natively, but that might. i have the one linked and it does work and is now benson approved affter they fixed it.
Old chargers and cables still work, you just need a little converter. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0151RKYBG/
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0151RKYBG
Benson approved, very well priced - works great on my 6P.
I've got a 6p - I just bought the Micro adapters.
No - it doesn't rapid charge, but it keeps it charged, and charging, with screen on navigation.
These are what I bought. Some reviews say it didn't work for them, but i haven't had any issues.
[http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0151RKYBG?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00]
Yeah, I used my same cable with a micro<->C converter and it works fine. Running Waze and Pocketcasts it kept the phone at 100% during a 8 hour drive recently.
(edit: these are what I have: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0151RKYBG. Note that the wall wart with this WILL NOT charge the phone at "quick charging" speeds, but for my use they work fine overnight as well as the car.)
I got one of these arriving tomorrow.
Any updates ? Have a similar setup. Currently running on iGFX at 1080p but want to get 4k 60hz over HDMI 2.0 using a gtx 960 or 970. Using a 4K TV as a display and no dp available. If a software fix isn't available, have you tried using a dp 1.2 to hdmi 2.0 adapter like this one? https://www.amazon.com/Club3D-Displayport-1-2-HDMI-CAC-1070/dp/B017BQ8I54
edit: just finished reading the thread. Sounds like this has been suggested. Did you try it? /u/redpsychedelic
Alright so, here's the deal for you and posterity. Got the adapter. Perfect 4k@60Hz (had to enable UHD mode on TV obviously) on macOS 10.12.2 (16C68), web drivers 367.15.10.25f02 on the GTX 970.
So we're clear, I'm using Club3D Displayport 1.2 to HDMI 2.0 UHD (CAC-1070) [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017BQ8I54/] with KabelDirekt High Speed HDMI Cable with ARC Ethernet (6 ft) [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DI8A1NW]
On winblows, it still works perfectly 4k@60hz like before (aka when I wasn't using the adapter). I just had a long gaming session @ 4k60fps no sweat.
Audio on macOS also works fine with injected Toleda's audio DSDT (didn't change anything, it's the same I installed when I was running via HDMI out, hopefully via DP I don't get random sound cracking or complete muffling as experienced via HDMI).
You could just get a h170 motherboard coupled with [this] (https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B017BQ8I54/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pG2FybGX0Z5QT)
The 170 chipsets work with Kaby, just need a bios update.
I know club3d is one of the few folks who’ve made a dp1.2 to hdmi2.0a.
Here’s a link. https://www.amazon.com/Club3D-Displayport-1-2-HDMI-CAC-1070/dp/B017BQ8I54
This adapter has a male dp and female hdmi, so you’d still need an hdmi cable in between.
Unfortunately I don’t think any has made a 2.0b adapter yet.
EDIT - looks like these cables are unidirectional. So not useful in your case. :(
$30 DP 1.2 to HDMI 2.0 adapter that actually works: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017BQ8I54
The issues I've run into in the past were related to monitors not handling the DisplayPort protocol properly (BenQ XL2720Z, XL2730Z firmware bugs) causing black screens, etc. With these Dell S2716DG monitors using DisplayPort, everything works amazingly and responds super quickly. I've been able to pull off at least four concurrent displays, one being the Vizio TV on DVI-I to HDMI, with every GPU I've tried it with (GTX 980 and TITAN X).
With the HP 27xw, you'll have to rely on DisplayPort to HDMI adapters since no DP input. I'm not sure how well passive DP to HDMI adapters will work on the GTX 1070 (whether it will work with 2+ passive adapters or not). They should work fine for 1080p60, but I haven't been able to test such a setup. Active adapters have the potential to increase latency, and may fail due to the nature of being active. However, they can properly convert DP to HDMI, resolving issues that may arise with (multiple) passive adapters.
Passive DP to HDMI adapter
Active DP to HDMI adapter
Active DP to HDMI 2.0 adapter (supports UHD@60Hz)
Edit: The GTX 1070 should be more than capable of handling a four display setup, seeing how it surpasses the GTX TITAN X in benchmarks.
>My main card is a 1080 Ti, could I use the DVI from that card plus the 3rd displayport?
That gives you an even better option, use the hdmi 2.0B ports, each is capable of HDR 4k output, look for an adapter for them, eg, something like this.
HDMI 2.0 supports 4k @ 60Hz 4:4:4 chroma. HDMI 1.4a (which is what most HDMI ports act like in macOS) supports 4k @ 30Hz 4:4:4 chroma. /u/cman8tor likely needs an active DP -> HDMI adapter (like the Club3D CAC-1070 mentioned by /u/z0rian). Although - some reports of it working via HDMI 2.0b have been noted - however, they seem rather unexplained/unpredictable.
Also worth noting that the Pixel Clock Patch (maintained by Floris497) - which lifted that "see everything as HDMI 1.4a" behavior - hasn't been super reliable since Sierra.
-
Hopefully that helps!
-
-CorpNewt
That's a good point, and [THIS] (https://smile.amazon.com/Club3D-Displayport-1-2-HDMI-CAC-1070/dp/B017BQ8I54?sa-no-redirect=1) would be the only adapter to do so that I would recommend.
I did on an Asus ROG G751JY Laptop. Has a GeForce 980m. Did the same thing you did and was able to get it to work with the short cable. Long cable through the link box didn't work at all. Just the long cable direct to the computer would work for about 20 seconds with lots of red scan lines and then it would shut off.
I believe it was probably something power related and that the HDMI port wasn't pushing enough volts over distance. I was able to get it to work using this adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0194F1MPI/ and heres the full sized DisplayPort from the same company: https://www.amazon.com/Club3D-Displayport-1-2-HDMI-CAC-1070/dp/B017BQ8I54/
Not sure if this is what you wanted, but this adapter is the only one on the market so far that does 4K at 60hz.
Club3D Displayport 1.2 to HDMI 2.0 UHD (CAC-1070) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017BQ8I54/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dV-AxbTF1G9F9
Every active adapter will introduce a little input lag, but not enough to be noticeable in my experience. Ultra wide should work, but worse case you can plug the monitor into your hdmi port and use the adapter and plug that into your tv.
https://www.amazon.com/Club3D-Displayport-1-2-HDMI-CAC-1070/dp/B017BQ8I54
the solution is displayport,Mobo in build above has it.
If your TV does not have a displayport you can use an active dp to hdmi 2.0a adapter like this one https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-HDMI-2-0a-Active-Adapter/dp/B01B6ZOMIS or this one https://www.amazon.com/Club3D-Displayport-1-2-HDMI-CAC-1070/dp/B017BQ8I54/ref=pd_sim_147_1?ie=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B017BQ8I54&amp;pd_rd_r=SZSDX49Q4SBKBF0QJYZ5&amp;pd_rd_w=uMnWY&amp;pd_rd_wg=9rDBd&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=SZSDX49Q4SBKBF0QJYZ5 and then an hdmi 2.0 cable
Right, sorry hdmi 2.0... how about an adapter like this. Will that work?
What CPU? Most of Intel's iGPUs are limited to 4k @ 30Hz over HDMI (lame, I know). You'll more than likely have to get a display port -> HDMI adapter. Make sure it's one that supports 4k @ 60Hz; there's only a couple out there right now.
Here's a Display Port -> HDMI adapter on Amazon that has decent reviews and supports 4k @ 60Hz
:EDIT: Example: I7-7700T only supports 4k @ 60Hz over Display Port; it's limited to 24Hz through HDMI
Max Resolution (HDMI 1.4)‡
4096x2304@24Hz
Max Resolution (DP)‡
4096x2304@60Hz
Max Resolution (eDP - Integrated Flat Panel)‡
4096x2304@60Hz
New update been testing out for a while with new drivers plus the club 3d adapter, my TV will still randomly drop signal for a second every once in a blue moon but it doesn't hard drop like before where it would rearrange the desktop as if a new device was plugged in. Figured I'd should let people know in case they go looking for answers.
--------------------------------------------------
So I finally bit the bullet and picked up one of these Club 3D DisplayPort to HDMI 2.0 adapters
DP TO HDMI CLUB 3D Amazon
because my 4k TV flickering was driving me insane. Been testing for about a day on 1.7.6.2 and a few hours on 1.7.7.1 versions and so far no flickering or disconnects. Things to note is my display looks a touch darker on its natural settings, it's running at 60HZ vs 59HZ naturally so on first boot that's what I got thankfully. No more tooling around trying to force 60HZ to match my other 2 monitors.
Other thing to note, it comes up as RGB 4:4:4 in Radeon Additional settings now, it used to come up as 4:2:2, I've done quick tests and it looks to actually show 4:4:4 Chroma.
From my understanding it has to do with how the display talks to the GPU, either HDCP disconnects for some random reason which is one of the reasons I think the adapter works.
OR
It's an EDID thing, where the monitor is saying one thing and the Windows/GPU is saying another. Apparently something like this also works.
EDID Override adapter (HAVEN'T TESTED THIS MYSELF) Video trying to prove their theory
Honestly would have loved to just had an update that fixed this but it got to the point where I just said I'm done with it, going to fix it myself. HDMI on any version of Windows has always been pretty broken. Scaling is always off, refresh rate is random, chroma subsampling is always off so the picture looks just janky. Might as well use DisplayPort instead.
Curious to see if anyone has experienced the issue with DP or is it just HDMI, or has anyone seen any issues after using an adapter between display and GPU?
Cheers guys.
Edit should have mentioned I'm using an RX 480
https://www.amazon.com/Club3D-Displayport-1-2-HDMI-CAC-1070/dp/B017BQ8I54/ref=redir_mobile_desktop/153-7579058-8645213?_encoding=UTF8&amp;*Version*=1&amp;*entries*=0
Here is a DP 1.2 -> HDMI 2.0 for $30
If you buy a HDMI 2.0 adapter it might work, https://www.amazon.com/Club3D-Displayport-1-2-HDMI-CAC-1070/dp/B017BQ8I54
(dont quote me on this tho)
If your Radeon card has a displayport port you could try one of these https://www.amazon.com/Club3D-Displayport-1-2-HDMI-CAC-1070/dp/B017BQ8I54
If your TV has a displayport (or some variation of it, like a mini displayport) i'd just get a cable for that. Despite the name it should carry audio
Well, Evga made 6 models of RTX 2070 and some look exactly the same, besides of different ports.
You could go with HDMI 2.0 to Displayport adapter, if your monitor gives you a HDMI 2.0 signal: https://www.amazon.com/Club3D-Displayport-1-2-HDMI-CAC-1070/dp/B017BQ8I54
Keep in mind that you can now convert DisplayPort 1.2 to HDMI2.0 (4K@60Hz) with a relatively cheap adapter.
So you really only need a MB that has DP on it (they are all 1.2 or better).
https://www.amazon.com/Club3D-Displayport-1-2-HDMI-CAC-1070/dp/B017BQ8I54 could try something like this
You'll need an HDMI 2.0 output or a displayport output with an hdmi2.0 adapter, like the Club3D one.
Other than that, no, should be perfect for that
this adapter would allow you to run full DP capability through to hdmi 2.0 (most adapters would limit you) but you are still limited by DP 1.1. I think that you need DP 1.2 to run 4k@60 and DP 1.1 maxes out at 4k@30.
Sorry. I think you are limited either way.
You want a DP-\>HDMI adapter that supports 4k@60hz. That's what I'm using on my Odyssey.
This is the one I use: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B017BQ8I54
Microsoft lists one on their troubleshooting web page -
I think the brand name is Pluggable.Club3d and Cable Matters.Here is the page link: https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/mixed-reality/enthusiast-guide/recommended-adapters-for-windows-mixed-reality-capable-pcs
OK, The cable I linked is DP1.2a. I have a 1.2a DisplayPort on my video card which runs a 2,560x1,440 monitor at 144Hz. It's a 21.6Gbps port that will run a 3,840x2,160 monitor at atleast 24Hz.
This says that DisplayPort 1.2 should be able to provide a 3,840x2,160 signal at 60Hz.
You might invest in the second cable instead of the first since I don't know if there are physical changes in HDMI 2.0 cable spec.
Is this what you're looking for, because if not I don't think what you want exists
Does your monitor support full 4K 60hz 4:4:4? If yes, does your EVGA sport a mini DP or DP port? At least 1.2?
For my previous laptop, I had to use a 1.2 display port to HDMI 2.0 active dongle.
I recommend this Club3D one, as it has worked for me for both 4k 60hz RGB full and YCbCr444.
https://www.amazon.com/Club3D-Displayport-1-2-HDMI-CAC-1070/dp/B017BQ8I54/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501608906&amp;sr=8-1-fkmr0&amp;keywords=club3d+displayport+1.2+to+hdmi+2.0+uhd+%28cac-1170%29
according to google that GPU has a displayport port so if you can spend 30$ you dont need a new graphics card
Google took me here: https://www.amazon.com/Club3D-Displayport-1-2-HDMI-CAC-1070/dp/B017BQ8I54Edit: Nevermind, someone noted it's not bi-directional so it only takes DP output and converts to HDMI input. I'll take another look.
I have yet to run into a TV that has problems. We have 4K TVs in every office and conference room at work, probably 25 different models from Sony, Sharp, Vizio, and Insignia. For laptops that have a HDMI 2.0 port, people plug in with that. For those that don’t, they use a DP to HDMI adapter from Club3D or the computers we put in the conference rooms (which use the same adapter).
This is the adapter we use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017BQ8I54/
You need Active adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/Club3D-Displayport-1-2-HDMI-CAC-1070/dp/B017BQ8I54
Edit: My mistake, right now there are no HDMI 2.0 to Display Port adapters available for sale.
Expect HDMI 1.4 to DP adapter by the end of the year from Club3D.
I could use this work around too. I'll let you know if I find anything.
Edit* maybe something like this
Club3D Displayport 1.2 to HDMI 2.0 UHD (CAC-1070) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017BQ8I54/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BFqkyb7BEBN2D
Or this would be even better because an adapter could cause lag.
Cable Matters DisplayPort 1.2 to HDTV Cable Supporting 4K 6 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01672IR6I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5Iqkyb1TG6306
here
The only adapter that works correctly as far as I've seen is Club3D's
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017BQ8I54/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&amp;me=
Have one on my 260x in my HTPC, works great.
Try this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017BQ8I54/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It will convert any hdmi 1.2 port to a 2.0 port allowing for native 4k resolution at 60fps.
I use for my own setup.
For the record; I think I may have found a workaround.
Yey
...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017BQ8I54/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8
I am a sucker for screen real estate and have been using a 40" 4k TV (Samsung UN40KU6300) mostly for programming work for about three years now. -- I love it, but there are some trade-offs to consider:
A 40" 4k TV has about 110ppi, about the same as a 20" HD (1920x1080) monitor. I would probably not go any bigger than 40" (or maybe 43") and I would not use any non-4k TVs. -- Look at this page if you want to play around with various display sizes and see the corresponding PPI.
Your TV will not have a Display Port, but only HDMI. You want HDMI 2.0 for 4k @ 60Hz and chroma 4:4:4 subsampling. I think nowadays most graphics cards have a HDMI 2.0 capable HDMI port. In the past I have used this Display Port 1.2 to HDMI 2.0 adapter with success. Also most TVs will only have one HDMI port that is capable of handling 4k @ 60Hz with chroma 4:4:4 subsampling. (Read your TV's manual). This might be an issue for you if you want to hook up multiple computers to the same display.
In general, I would recommend checking out this article on rtings.com, rating TVs for monitor usage.
<tl;dr>
A 40" 4k TV will give you about the same PPI as a 20" HD monitor, so no issues there. Make sure you are fine with HDMI 2.0 instead of Display Port inputs and use a TV that is capable of chroma 4:4:4 subsampling, particularly when editing text.
However, there are certain trade-offs you have to be aware of when using a TV as a monitor. It works well for things like programming or text editing, but not so much in cases where color accuracy across the screen is required. Also in the days of 38" ultra wide monitors a 40" TV as monitor does not sound that crazy anymore.
</tl;dr>
&#x200B;
Disclaimer: Not affiliated with any of the sites/products linked to in this post besides having actually purchased/used them myself...
> KU6290
You should be fine. The KU6290 is identical to the KU6300 except for a smart remote. It can perform 4K @ 60hz @ 4:4:4 chroma. 30ms isn't horrible, especially for non-twitch stuff, so long as you set it up properly. Out of the box, it probably defaults to 100ms input lag because of all the other post-input settings.
Check out this review:
http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/samsung/ku6300
Most specifically, the "Inputs" section, and the guides to get the most out of your TV in the "Input Lag" and "Supported Resolutions" subsections.
Most importantly though: To get the 4K@60Hz@4:4:4, check if you have HDMI 2.0 on your video card. If so, just connect an HDMI 2.0 cord from Card to "HDMI 1" input slot. If you lack HDMI 2.0, see if you have DisplayPort 1.2 (more likely).
Then you can get this adapter or similar:
amazon(DOT)com/Club3D-Displayport-1-2-HDMI-CAC-1070/dp/B017BQ8I54
(no referral links :\ , though I may be mistaking what a referral link is. I'm just assuming its any clickable URL that makes you jump to a page to buy stuff.)
...and connect your displayport to "HDMI 1". Can't use the on-TV speakers that way though.
Thanks. So will this one work?
Do you recommend anything? Is that the price point I am looking at? $50?
While I haven't installed Arch on my 9350 yet, a verified reviewer states that the one linked below works on Linux.
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Multiport-Thunderbolt-Compatible/dp/B01C316EIK
BTW, if anyone wants to swap a 512GB 2260 M.2 drive for a 2280 M.2 drive, that'd be great...
I’m using a Cat6 Ethernet cable, connected to this adapter from Cable Matters:
Cable Matters USB-C Multiport Adapter with 4K HDMI or VGA Video, USB 3.0 and Gigabit Ethernet (Thunderbolt 3 Port Compatible / Incompatible with 2017 iMac & MacBook) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C316EIK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QCWuzbM8WNVXF
those exist already, they even have some with an ethernet port.
I've used these on multiple DMPS's without a problem.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C316EIK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2mRCzbJCKF30X
Try something like one of these, they will let you plug in an HDMI cable
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cable-Matters-Type-USB-C-Adapter-x/dp/B00X4S5C7G
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cable-Matters-Multiport-Thunderbolt-Compatible/dp/B01C316EIK
Hi there again (4 months later),
The problem was not the usb type-c neither GNU/Linux. The problem was the Dell DA200 adapter, so after researching I found a lad who bought a cabblematters adapter and it worked perfectly. If anyone is interested here it is the solution: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Multiport-Thunderbolt-Compatible/dp/B01C316EIK
No, just one external monitor (plus the primary display) and Ethernet simultaneously (also extra USB devices, but I rarely if ever need those ports). Other dongles I tried would kill ethernet when the external monitor was active and vice versa. This one has a second (VGA) port that presumably would work as a second external, but I have never tested that as I only have one additional monitor at any of my workstations.
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Multiport-Thunderbolt-Compatible/dp/B01C316EIK/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494431078&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=Cable+Matters+USB-C+Multiport+Adapter+with+4K+HDMI+or+VGA+Video%2C+USB+3.0+and+Gigabit+Ethernet+%28Thunderbolt+3+Port+Compatible%29
I suspect USB-C doesn't provide enough power natively to push two independent HDMI/DVI displays simultaneously.
I currently use this for my yoga 720 15:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C316EIK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uZvQzbESWJ6R3
MBP 15" TB here, I'm mostly using it for "office" work, frequent 2-hour presentations on projectors and the occasional VMware for programming in Windows. I do not have any major problem with the USB-C, instead I got some extra convenience.
I got this adapter to replace the thunderbolt-to-ethernet and thunderbolt-to-VGA adapters that I used before (with the old MBP). Overall the "dongle hell" is about the same volume as the previous "dongle hell" and quite more organised.
On the other hand, there are some advantages. I bought an Anker 60W charger for the office and an Anker 24W charger for my backpack as a backup. This only manages to slowly charge the laptop when it is sleeping but it extends the battery life when I'm using it by about 200-300% - which is good enough for backup "on the road". I also bought some extra cables, so maybe altogether I spent about £120 extra but my setup is now a lot lighter and a lot more resilient to mishaps. Also, I probably spent less than how much the adapters, extra chargers etc had cost for the old MBPr.
Still need to buy an SD adapter.
I don't use a hub, I use two USB-C adapters.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MYUCWOK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C316EIK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I bought this one and it works flawlessly. Not the cheapest option but comes with VGA, HDMI, Gigabit Ethernet, and a USB 3.1 Type A. Well worth the extra cost. Also remember you get what you pay for. This one is well constructed and reliable:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01C316EIK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Edit: Also forgot to mention. I've got an XPS 15
Any chance this would work?
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Converts-Technology-Compatible-ChromeBook/dp/B01COOQIKU
Yes it comes with a USB 3.1 Gen 1 Type A to Type B cable.
Is this the type of adapter you're referring to?
Syntech adapter
Anker adapter
Buy one of these and bring your switch to tournaments. You can use a USB C to A OTG adapter and plug your controller into your switch to sync it. It's the fastest and most convenient way.
I've had two newer (purchased within the last 2 years) flash drives that were working, using this adapter, but after I did one of the 15" MBP firmware updates, I used it with one of the flash drives (SanDisk Cruzer 64 GB USB 2) and it wiped all the data and bricked the flash drive. Wouldn't recognize in macOS and in Windows it was to where it would read the size at 0. I tried to reformat it a few different ways, and it wouldn't do anything.
Of course before doing that troubleshooting I plugged in another of the same flash drive because I needed to transfer data, and that one did the same thing.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01COOQIKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OQqXAb126MAB1
I know dongle hell is annoying, but one or two of these would limit the number of usb c versions of cables you’d need.
These work for charging AND pass data for heathen devices that aren’t natively usb c.
What phone do you have? For an Android from the past few years, you could use something like this. You'd plug it into your phone, then plug a flash drive with a lot of storage onto the other side. If your phone supports microSD you can get a big microSD card. Be careful though since a phone supports a Max size of microSD.
How many videos do you want? How much storage? Will you have access to WiFi?
I use this exact setup. Anker USB-C OTG cable and Anker USB 3.0 SD/microSD Card Reader. I use this to copy photos from my SD card of my Nikon D5500 to my LG G6. There are some cheaper options on Amazon but I usually trust Anker or Aukey as they haven't caused me any issues (so far).
Not sure what country you are in, but here is one from the UK for £6:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker-Converts-Technology-Compatible-ChromeBook-black/dp/B01COOQIKU/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=H4778WXRJBXFRPZ4HGTZ
from a reputable brand.
I bought this one a few weeks ago and it has been great. I use it to transfer between my Nexus 6p and Chromebook Flip
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01COOQIKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_bQCrzb42838XM
Anker usb c to usb Link
I've used an audioquest dragonfly with my mate 20 Pro with great success. You'll just need a USB-C adapter. I use the Anker USB-C OTG cable. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker-Converts-Technology-Compatible-ChromeBook-black/dp/B01COOQIKU?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_4
As long as the embroidery machine acts as a USB drive then it will likely work. You would just need a USB OTG adapter and then test if it works.
Depending on which port your phone has you would get something similar to either of these:
https://smile.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Converts-Technology-Compatible/dp/B01COOQIKU/ref=sr_1_13?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542684703&amp;sr=1-13&amp;keywords=usb+otg
https://smile.amazon.com/StarTech-com-0-5m-Micro-USB-Extension-Cable/dp/B012S0ZQNU/ref=sr_1_27?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542684735&amp;sr=1-27&amp;keywords=usb+otg
So, something like this I believe you mean:
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Converts-Technology-Compatible/dp/B01COOQIKU
Geez I'm getting old, I should have just realized that's what I need to get, DOH!!!
Thanks for the response...
Also maybe my anker is not powerful enough?
It's this one
Anker USB-C to USB 3.1 Adapter, Converts USB-C Female into USB-A Female, Uses USB OTG Technology, Compatible with Samsung Galaxy Note 8, S8 S8+ S9, iPad Pro 2018, Nexus 6P 5X, LG V20 G5 and more https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01COOQIKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zgs8CbF6ME8CE
I guess it's easier to understand if I link some stuff.
You can get something like this cable, this adapter, this hub, or anything else that looks similar. They all do the same thing so it doesn't really matter which. Any of them can connect to the bottom of the Switch to let you plug USB stuff in. Switch has the same kind of port (it's called USB-C) as the recent Macbooks so a lot of these things say they're for Macbook but they work with Switch too.
Only some USB LAN adapters work with Switch. Here's a few examples: HORI, Plugable, Cable Matters, AmazonBasics. Any of these work the same so get whichever one you can. They all work with the dock too.
If you don't care about using a LAN adapter with your dock at all, you could also get this LAN adapter instead which plugs directly into the Switch without needing another adapter, but you cannot use it when the Switch is docked.
This is what I have.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01COOQIKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FFaHzbR4SNK5D
I plug in the white cable that came with the spark into that adapter,and the other end into the controller. The type C end go's into my phone.
Wait what? I meant the USB thingy that comes with the Cloud 2. If you need wireless though, just do a quick google search and you should find plenty of USB wireless audio adapters. If you need USB audio (or Gamecube controllers :P) in portable mode this should work. Sorry for the confusion. https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Converts-Technology-Compatible/dp/B01COOQIKU/ Be sure to test it in docked mode first to make sure it's compatible with the Switch. And still, it might not work properly in portable mode, but it should lol
I would probably go with this. It says it says it is supported by Nexus 5X and 6P. Also with this one you won't need micro usb to usb C adapter.
Android with a USB-OTG cable (Anker has good ones - this one is for USB C on the phone and connects directly to the Kobo microUSB cable) - but you can get other combos - connect phone to Kobo, transfer files between the two. Fast and easy.
I'm 100% sure this works because I do it sometimes with a Kobo [Clara] and a Samsung Note 8 - had some epubs on the phone that I wanted on the Kobo and vice versa. $8 solution.
Anything using cloud storage (Dropbox, etc) or FTP might work well too but maybe not on stock firmwares and it's not a big drawback to carry a tiny USB-OTG cable along on vacation, plus it's handy for other uses (external DAC/Amps, etc).
yeah this is the one I'm using: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01COOQIKU/
I just got my cable in yesterday. It was the Anker one. Plug it in and if anything the white static screens became worse.
I have a similar hub and it works so I don't see why this wouldn't.
Edit: I don't think HDMI out through USB-C is supported so you'd be better off saving your $ and get this Anker (or similar) USB-C OTG adapter with a USB 2.0 hub (the USB ports on these phones are only USB 2.0)
Awesome, will this work? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01COOQIKU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A294P4X9EWVXLJ&amp;psc=1
Hey guys, trying to get into the scene here and I feel like my phone isn't enough for my HD598. If someone could help me out that would be great.
I use an Honor 8 and HD598s. I'd like to get a bit more out of them, especially volume wise and I'm looking into the audioquest dragonfly or Audioengine D3. First off, which one would be better for sound quality and volume? I listen to a wide range of music so just generally which one would be better.
Second, would an HD598 do well with either one of those?
Third, can an Honor 8 power them sufficiently?
Fourth, I'd like to use this to connect them: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01COOQIKU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520274495&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=usb+c+to+usb+3.1+otg&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31u9EgABWmL&amp;ref=plSrch
Overall, would this combo be alright and would the Honor 8 be able to completely power the Dragonfly/D3 and would the dragonfly/D3 be a good pair with the HD598?
i found this on amazon UK. plug the displayport into the gpu and usb c into your monitor
The 2018 Mac mini only has Thunderbolt 3 (USB-C) connections, not Mini DisplayPort. So you’ll need a USB-C to Mini DisplayPort cable. Here is the one I have:
Plugable USB C to DisplayPort Adapter - 6ft (1.8m) Adapter Cable (Supports Resolutions up to 4K at 60Hz) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EXKDRAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_DztyDbKZCMVDS
Yeah if you want the full 60 Hz you’ll have to plug it into the HDMI 2.0 port and not the 1.4 ports. It usually is clearly labeled on the back of the monitor of at the very least in the manual.
I found this other solution that uses display port instead and doesn’t require any adapters if you prefer that. That way you don’t have to deal with the adapters or possibly putting in the wrong HDMI. And it’s only $22. I might get myself one too lol.
You don't need a "Mac specific" display. As long as it has at least one DisplayPort you can connect it without any adapters by using a USB-C to DisplayPort cable, which are standard things. Here is one, just as an example:
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-USB-DisplayPort-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01EXKDRAC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536741674&amp;sr=8-5
If it has HDMI instead you can mostly do the same, except with some minor caveats. Resolutions above 4K are harder, but displays that high resolution are getting expensive as well. If you plan on going to 5K, let us know, and we can explain the details.
For gaming, 1080p is probably a good resolution. You can also go to 4K and drop the resolution to 1080p while gaming (that's what I do), but obviously it becomes more expensive.
https://www.amazon.ca/Plugable-DisplayPort-Thunderbolt-Supports-Resolutions/dp/B01EXKDRAC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536071873&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb+c+displayport
Update: Bought this cable https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01EXKDRAC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
That's USB-C to DP, and it works flawlessly, so far. As it's being used in a Thunderbolt 3 port, it supports higher resolutions at higher refresh rates, so my 2560x1440 @60Hz is fine.
It shouldn't have been necessary, and it's more expensive than any old HDMI cable, but I'm so relieved that it's sorted.
I'll re-check the HDMI to HDMI situation every now and then, after a big kernel or BIOS update, especially as I might want to free up the TB3 port in the future.
We cannot speak to that product you linked, unless somebody here has the product and can confirm.
Otherwise.....
I can confirm the devices I own, Bean Canyon and Hades Canyon, both support ThunderBolt-3 over USB-c to external display tha features the DisplayPort connector. This works well, and I'm using this specific cable:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EXKDRAC/
&#x200B;
The full size DisplayPort or the Mini DisplayPort really doesn't matter very much, I'm just showing you what I use. Obviously if your external display uses mini-DP, then go with able that provides that.
Unless the SSDs and HDDs are thunderbolt, there isn't much of a reason to run them through the the thunderbolt ports over USB-A unless they're higher speeds than USB3.0. You can connect your monitor using a USB-C to DisplayPort cable, I use one to connect a 4K monitor to my 2017 MacBook Pro, and it runs at 60hz.
Link to the cable I bought: https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-USB-DisplayPort-Adapter-Resolutions/dp/B01EXKDRAC/ref=asc_df_B01EXKDRAC/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=312780390407&amp;hvpos=1o2&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=6701388570838587492&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9026843&amp;hvtargid=pla-406302874305&amp;psc=1
Ok sorry but one more thing, this or this
People seem to be having luck driving 4k monitors off of 15" Macs with this cable so presumably it should work for 2560x1440 too.
I have this USB-C to HDMI adapter and it works well.
Cable Matters USB-C to HDMI Adapter
Edit: I also have this USB-C to Displayport cable, and it works great too.
Pluggable USB-C to Displayport Cable
I can see that U28E590D has Display Port. Just buy USB-C to Display Port cable and forget HDMI. Something like this should be fine. I use similar cable on a daily basis and have 60Hz at 4K res with MBP 13.
This one works amazing.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01EXKDRAC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This also seems legit, but I am tempted to just have the Display Port Cable instead.
https://www.amazon.ca/Plugable-USB-C-HDMI-Chromebook-ThunderboltTM/dp/B01FIVSC6Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493836186&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=usb+c+to+hdmi+2
I used this cable: Plugable USBC to DisplayPort Adapter Cable
It's actually super nice just being able to use this single cable rather than having to keep track of a small adapter and additional cable.
To connect the MacBook Pro to a PG278Q, you'll need a USB C to displayport cable like this one.
The switching part is where things get tricky. You can get a 2:1 displayport switch like the Lindy brand one on Amazon, but it's only going to support 60hz max. That's fine for the Macbook, but I assume you're going to want a 144hz signal from the PC so that you can enjoy all that your G-Sync video card has to offer. And from what I can tell, there are no displayport switches that can handle 144hz or even 120hz. And even if there were, the cost would be high enough that buying a separate 1440p or 4k monitor just for the Macbook starts to make sense.
Hi. 1. Check if your monitor supports charging and data. It most likely does at 60 watts. If you have a 15 inch it will charge a bit slower. So you are good there. Worst case scenario you plug in your charger and the USB c cable.
2. Get a USB c to display port adapter. Plugable USB-C to DisplayPort Adapter Cable (6'/1.8m) for 2016 / 2017 MacBook Pro, MacBook Retina 2015 / 2016, Chromebook Pixel, Thunderbolt 3 & More (Supports 4K / UHD Displays up t https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01EXKDRAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MMAMzb3KHCK3A. That’s 1 cable
3. Extended desktop
take a look here. #2 (1x USB-C + 1x HDMI) and #3 (2x USB-C + 1x HDMI) look promising. Haven't looked at the others. I'm not sure that 2x USB-C ports means 2x 4k monitors, though. It looks like the Intel HD 620 integrated graphics don't support HDMI 2.0 without a separate chip. You may just be able to get a USB Type-C to Displayport adapter, IDK. I'm out of my depth here, I recommend making a post over at the Notebookreview forums where the real nerds hang out.
Edit: Actually, this is a thing. So I'm guessing you'll be OK as long as you have two USB Type-C ports, plus a separate port for power. You may even be able to daisy-chain two monitors somehow.
Continued research says that Displayport 1.3 and newer is enough bandwidth for 2x 4k 60hz. Holy cow. I think maybe the monitors have to explicitly support daisy chaining, or else you need a DP hub, but as long as you get something with USB C (with Thunderbolt for good measure, most of the nice machines have it anyway) you should be OK.
I use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EXKDRAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MyfYCbJBPAW9M from my MacBook Pro to a 27inch 2560x1440.
Is it thunder bolt 3.0? I have a Razer blade 2016 and use a thunderbolt (usb-c to display port) to play on my Asus 144hz and it runs at 144hz. Make sure you get one that supports 4K @ 60hz. I got this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01EXKDRAC/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I have the Alienware 15R2 (6th gen processor as well and a GTX 970m). I have the same monitor.
I'm currently using Archlinux (up to date) and it works just fine using bumblebee. (works, in fact, much better than connecting to the hdmi port). I'm using this cable. EDIT: minor formatting.
As a reference, I barely hit the constant 144fps mark playing TF2 on low settings with my 1060 blade laptop. So yes, I have my laptop hooked up to a 144hz monitor using this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EXKDRAC. Hope this helps.
Your main issue is MST setting. Apple doesn't support it because their hardware doesn't really need it. Technically, they do support it and here's the page where you can get more info. However, they don't implement the full standard (i.e. Daisy Chaining monitors).
In the link above, you'll notice that your MacBook can, and should, run 2 4K displays without issue but I don't believe you'll be able to do this from your dock.
Primary MST (Multi Stream Transport) takes the entire bandwidth of a DisplayPort 1.2, which runs at 4K/5K 60Hz. From this article, I'm gathering that you can't really drive so many monitors from a single USB type-C cable on MacOS. It's possible on Windows because of full MST implementation, hence why Dell advertises that option.
My suggestion is to use the monitors as USB hubs themselves. The way I have it hooked up, and working, is:
As always, my disclaimer is that YMMV and I'm not a computer engineer nor am I an expert of any kind. I've read forums, tried plugs, and got it to work. Also, there are some omissions about HDMI with regards to apple standards and stuff that some folks can nitpick on, however, this post is long enough and you can get your monitors to work without the additional information.
P.S. One thing I did was when I got each monitor to work, individually, is to turned off MST support via the following steps: Monitor OST --> Menu --> Display --> MST --> Off. This allows for each monitor to work in 4K 60Hz, for me. Don't know if it helped or not, just something I did. This came from a Reviewer on Amazon named Bob.
Edit: Formating.
Certainly!
These are what I bought.
I am not using a splitter., I am using a USB C to Display port Cable, an HDMI 2.0 Cable, and a Mini Display Port to Display Port Cable.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7RJQPY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EXKDRAC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8SSD0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Screenshot of CSGO: https://i.imgur.com/KNs5Oow.png
Screenshot of Display Adopter: https://i.imgur.com/Tw9i9sk.png
I think also, it's either the cable or the monitor driver. I have following cable, in case this is of any help: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01EXKDRAC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Yes it does. It's an awkward angle since you need to plug it into the bottom. But it does work. I own the Amazon Basics USB Type-C to USB 3.1 Gen1 Female Adapter Cable. And I've never had an issue.
Here's the link:
AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB 3.1 Gen1 Female Adapter - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYXVE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_SDaBVC2wXpgM8
Ah - OK, so I'm assuming you have an A device (with a B socket or a captive / fixed USB plug) as the DAC?
&nbsp;
If your device just has a USB plug, then you need either one of those all in one PD hubs with at least one A socket, or the two headed dongle linked by the other user + a C to A adapter.
&nbsp;
If your device has a USB-B socket at the device end, you can get C to B cables, so the mini PD hub linked by the other guy + cable should get you C PD + B connectivity.
e.g. if you have a USB2.0 DAC, then you'll need a C to 2.0 B cable.
If it's a USB3.0 device, then you'll need a C to 3.0 B cable.
Those are just examples - I don't have any of those cables, and you will need to be careful - especially with the 2.0 B cables, make sure they have the resistor as a minimum and look at reviews.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYXVE/
you can buy these as 3-packs in most dollar stores. What is really annoying is when the outlet doesn't have enough friction to hold anything in.
You need something like this. you unscrew the screw from the wall plate, plug this in, and screw the screw in through the hole on the male side. This will earth a 2 prong socket so you can use a 3 prong plug. You should be able to pick one of these up at a hardware store, or walmart for a few dollars.
Maybe this: http://www.amazon.com/Prong-prong-grounding-converter/dp/B000I96AUM
Seriously?
http://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-Wholesale-Grounding-Converter-30W1-32200/dp/B000I96AUM
Another solution is to get something like this http://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-Wholesale-Grounding-Converter-30W1-32200/dp/B000I96AUM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1406544724&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=2+prong+to+3+prong+adapter&amp;dpPl=1
and actually hook up a ground (see marnevel's comment, #4) to that mounting hole, this would give you all that you need.
Is it a buzzing sound? I had this happen recently and it was an electrical problem. Plugging my laptop into something similar to this before plugging it into the wall solved it for me.
Over here, in the US, we have these adapters that replace the third prong with a ring that we screw on the plug housing that acts as a ground.
you can buy them and since it's sounds like its created from the power go with a power ground lift not an xlr one. Here is an example of what it looks like from amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-Wholesale-Grounding-Converter-30W1-32200/dp/B000I96AUM/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_0_0
But they are good for identifying the problem you can also try plugging it in someplace other than where you have tried I've used ground lifts before when having problems with ground noise.
Or one of these, if you have the adapter to the US 2 pronged plug.
The jack I plugged into is a headphone jack. The only two jacks the computer has are a microphone and a headphone jack. Are headphone jacks typically amplified?
Just to make sure we are on the same page. Are you refering to this type of device: http://www.amazon.com/Prong-prong-grounding-converter/dp/B000I96AUM
Gringo checking in here. Just got to the country and agree with everything here. You only need the round two pin adapter to get your N. American plugs to work with the outlets here. I thought I had to buy a S. American adapter, but turns out, I needed to buy the European one. Also, if your laptop has a three prong I'd suggest getting a [grounding converter] (http://www.amazon.com/Prong-prong-grounding-converter/dp/B000I96AUM). It makes my laptop plug look like a franken-plug, but it works fine, no issues.
Also, your stuff will charge crazy fast here, which is nice.
Go to a hardware store and get something like this.
These adapters:
https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-Wholesale-Grounding-Converter-30W1-32200/dp/B000I96AUM
As for changing them out, I misunderstood you. I thought you wanted them to work as a grounded unit.
Very little glare on the screen, I have never had much of a problem with it.
Three prong, but look what i found :D http://www.amazon.com/Prong-prong-grounding-converter/dp/B000I96AUM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1346621210&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=3+prong+to+2+prong+adapter
Battery life is pretty good, nothing spectacular. I usually have it plugged in, but when unplugged and on "balanced" mode, I can get it to last several hours
If you were to pay, jsut do it through ebay, easiest
Non-mobile: www.amazon.com/dp/B000I96AUM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1427646521&sr=8-1&keywords=ground+lift&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=31cTnzwBzxL&ref=plSrch
^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?
Get a ground lift. Usually will fix/reduce that annoying hum.
Sounds like your laptop charger has problems with a slight voltage going to ground. This is causing a ground loop which cheaper laptop chargers are notorious for creating. This will still happen even if you plug into different power bars or outlets due to all of them going to a common ground. This can be fixed by a cheap three-to-two prong adapter. Or if you want to go the high tech expensive route try getting a ground isolator.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/buy/Hum-Eliminators/ci/15139/N/3992462126
The three-to-two prong adapter can be found at any local hardware store or Home Depot in the electrical department. Or here
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I96AUM/
What do you say about these?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000I96AUM
Your motherboard's video output using integrated graphic doesn't work if you're running a graphic card. Your only solution is to get an adapter for one of the ports on your graphic card. Make sure it's an active adapter with a converter to convert digital signal to analog signal, as your graphic card most likely doesn't produce analog signal, and VGA only carries analog signal. Here's an example. It is recommended to get an adapter with separate power source as they are more reliable. For example the one I linked powered through a micro USB port.
Edit: Apparently you can still turn on integrated graphic as the other comment pointes out. I didn't know about this. You can still use an adapter if you want to do something that would require a GPU, but I guess you won't.
I don't think this will work. Simply because HDMI cannot carry an analog signal. It has to be converted into digital, which actually requires a large converter. Something like this will work. Converted typically require a power input to work.
Definitely look into a HDMI to DVI cable, as HDMI can go directly to DVI without a converter since they are both digital.
Some of them are poorly made. Try this one, it includes an option for usb power that lets it actively convert the video signal.
The 1060 does not support analog graphics at all, so the cheap, passive, DVI to VGA adapters won't work.
You need an active adapter like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FL7H7HA/ or this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00879DM56/
There are HDMI splitters that you can use at the far end ( near the TVs ).
40ft HDMI cable $14
HDMI Booster $15
HDMI Splitter $12
HDMI Coupler $3 (three of these are needed)
HDMI to VGA adapter $16 ( you need two )
14+15+12+3+3+3+16+16 = $82. Slightly over your budget. There are cheaper alternatives to these products though.
You should be able to reuse the VGA to S-Video adapters you have.
This does not include the small lengths of HDMI from the splitter to the VGA adapters because I don't know the length, or the small length of HDMI from the PC to the booster.
I'd like to see a picture of the rear of the TV. The VGA will get up to 1080p. As for a converter:
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Active-Adapter-Micro-USB/dp/B00879DM56/ref=pd_sim_147_7?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41Nnkp%2Bu4OL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=0XAG6S66RQ9CS6PXVGEZ
Maybe this?