Best computer components according to redditors

We found 84,144 Reddit comments discussing the best computer components. We ranked the 14,185 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Computer memories
Computer internal modems
Computer CPU processors
Computer graphic cards
Computer internal sound cards
Computer cases
Computer motherboards
Computer power supplies
Internal computer networking cards
Internal optical drives
Internal fans & cooling components
Network I/O port cards
Barebone pc
Internal memory card readers
Laptop replacement parts
Internal TV tuner & video capture cards
Single board computers
Computer internal components

Top Reddit comments about Computer Components:

u/Nezteb · 234 pointsr/webdev

Just to BUILD an HTML site requires no hosting or domain! Once you have a built site that you want to display to the public though:

First, get a domain:

  • I use Google Domains.
  • Namecheap is also super great.
  • If you use shared hosting (see below), they often offer included domain names with your purchase.

    Second, find hosting:

  • Github Pages offers great static site hosting. Free.
  • Shared hosting like DreamHost is great if you aren't comfortable managing your own server but want access to databases (they also give you email addresses with webmail access). Costs a monthly fee.
  • Use a combination of PaaS like Heroku and Firebase. Free (can pay for more features/performance).
  • Your own VPS (virtual private server) like Digital Ocean lets you configure just about everything if you're okay with system administration. Costs a monthly fee.
  • Buy a Raspberry Pi and hook it up to your router (assuming your ISP gives you a public IP address). This is essentially setting up your own server. One time cost.

    Third, figure out how you want to make the site:

  • Use a CMS like WordPress, BoltCMS, Grav, DjangoCMS, etc...
  • Use a static site generator like Hugo or Hexo.
  • Write everything yourself (too many options out there to link, depends on your language/technology preference). This is the route you're going.

    Other stuff:

  • You can get free SSL certs for your site (especially important if people are going to be entering information) from Let's Encrypt.
  • CloudFlare acts as a CDN and IPS/IDS to help protect and optimize your site (they have a free plan).
  • A good option for students is to grab the Github Student Developer Pack, which includes a bunch of free goodies.


    A few more things you can play with:

  • C9 is cool for prototyping and playing around in a VPS playground with a nice built-in editor. It has a free plan, but last I checked it still requires a payment card for verification.
  • HyperDev is another cool Node-specific playground.
  • is a new service that gives you CMS-like functionality with Github Pages. I have not used it.
  • Prose is an editor application for managing Github content.
u/SubjectiveHat · 214 pointsr/gadgets

Nintendo's "strategy" led me to successfully build a RetroPie using a RaspberryPi starter kit. Now I have a NES mini and an SNES mini all in one with just about every title ever released for both systems. And I can play Quake on it.

u/KaineOrAmarov · 99 pointsr/buildapc

R5. Pretty close to the i5 in gaming but smashes it in productivity.

Edit: Eh fuck it, full comparison.

i5 7600k - $210. Doesn't come with a stock cooler, can commonly reach overclocks of 4.7-4.8 GHz, 4 Cores / 4 Threads.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU | Intel - Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz Quad-Core Processor | $209.89 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | CRYORIG - H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler | $34.89 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | MSI - Z270-A PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $99.99 @ Amazon
Memory | Crucial - Ballistix Sport LT 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $67.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $412.76
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-09-25 00:59 EDT-0400 |

R5 1600 - $210. Comes with a pretty beefy stock cooler, can commonly reach overclocks of 3.8-3.9 GHz, 6 Cores / 12 Threads.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor | $209.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | MSI - B350 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard | $99.49 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | G.Skill - Aegis 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $74.99 @ Newegg
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $384.47
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-09-25 01:02 EDT-0400 |

Here is a brief comparison between them while OC'd to 3.9 and 4.5

Here is another comparison, this time at 4.0 and 5.0 respectively

Here is a third comparison. 3.8 and 4.7

Draw your own conclusions.

Productivity is a no brainer. 6 Cores and 12 Threads for $210, triple the threads of the 7600k. I'm not sure where to get specific benchmarks for these types of applications, do your own research on that. Anything that takes advantage of lots of cores will do better on the 1600, as far as I'm aware.


At the lower price point - 1400 @ $160 vs i5-7400 @ $185 / i3-7100 @ $160

...No comparison. Intel loses the clock speed advantage while AMD retains the core advantage. There is absolutely no point getting an Intel CPU that isn't the i5-7600k or i7-7700k

u/gardobus · 79 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Some of the kits on Amazon are great, specifically the ones by CanaKit. They usually come with everything needed to get started (Pi, power adapter, sdcard, case, etc.) Some kits have more items than others.

As for which Pi, there are only really two options: the Pi 3 or the Pi Zero W. The other models are older and slower or lacking wifi/Bluetooth/etc. The Pi3 is more powerful and requires less adapters to make it plug into your TV, use USB devices, etc. The Pi Zero W requires some adapters and isn't as powerful but it is cheaper and a lot smaller so it is great for projects where you want it as small as possible. Both are great.

Overall, I'd recommend a Pi 3. More powerful, less messing with adapters, and still pretty small. This kit covers all the bases: CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 Complete Starter Kit - 32 GB Edition:

Pi 3, case, power, SD card, HDMI cable, SD reader, and heatsinks.

Edit: Here is a similar kit for the Pi Zero W if you want to go the smaller/cheaper route: CanaKit Raspberry Pi Zero W (Wireless) Starter Kit with Official Case

The SD card isn't as large and you don't get a card reader but you do get the needed HDMI and USB adapters.

Hope it helps!

u/mat8675 · 76 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Atlas Graphics Card Brace Support. A Video Card Holder, GPU brace, for custom Deskto Pc Gaming. a GPU stand case mod.

I've got this one. Works well and looks awesome!

u/amarsaudon · 72 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Just a word of warning - I implemented this in my car, and ran into a few hurdles:

  1. Audio output was too quiet, haf to crank my stereo to 100%. Installed a USB soundcard ( ) to correct the issue.
  2. Calling support is limited! Just launches speakerphone on your phone, no bluetooth audio support for calling.
  3. I had trouble finding a power adapter that wouldn't trigger the lightning bolt (bad power indicator) in the upper right of my screen when, especially since the phone pulls power through the Pi. Oddly this one worked fine:
  4. This issue is probably limited to my exact car, or my model of car ( 2010 Hyundai Elantra Blue), but: after connecting the setup, within 5 minutes a light would fire in my dash indicating one of my TPMS sensors had disconnecting. Removing the Pi setup would clear the light within 5 minutes. The sensors operate on 315 mhz; no idea how the Pi setup could be interfereing ( tried a Pi2, Pi3, and Pi3b+ w/ Official 7" LCD ). I am probably the only person on earth who will experience this, but figured I'd report anyways.
  5. Heavy Waze + Spotify user here; the entire setup would shit the bed if there was too much going on in Waze (traffic, cops, accidents would trigger massive audio tearing). Other users report similar experience on this front.
    Overall, cool project, but I retired my setup!
u/koopahermit · 68 pointsr/Amd
u/roboer9 · 66 pointsr/buildapcsales

USB pros: much easier to install, plug and play

PCI pros; faster speeds, more reliable



u/charliefrench2oo8 · 64 pointsr/OculusQuest

Hey all, I just wanted to report something.

I've been testing the assortment of cables I had around, and extensions.

Using this cable, this extension, and this PCIe Card I was able to get a 32 foot + 10 foot setup running fine. I tested it without the extension and could not see a difference in latency.
It does require active power.

Your results may vary, but I figured i'd share my test.

u/nataku411 · 52 pointsr/gamingpc

Definitely get a cheap 3rd party cooler for that CPU my dude. An H7 would do just fine.

Edit: On second thought, Cryorig must be going out of business because the cooler I paid under around $30 is now well over $100. Another great option would be the budget king H212 Evo and step-ups include Noctua's offering or the Scythe Mugen, BeQuiet's, all are great budget coolers.

u/DarkStarFTW · 50 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

This RAM is actually 3600 CL18 (18-22-22-42 timings) and not the CL16 shown on Amazon. See the model number: CMK16GX4M2Z3600C18

PCPartPicker also agrees. These sticks aren't on the B-Die list which would 3600 CL16 almost certainly be. The only B-Die from Corsair that is 2x8GB and 3600 CL16 is their Corsair Dominator RGB and Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro. This is clearly not any of those kits.

These are Hynix AFR chips.


With such bad timings, buy some 3000 CL15 or 3200 CL16 RAM and you should be able to reach 3600 CL18 easily (though staying at 3000 CL15 or 3200 CL16 is probably better performance wise)

Here's a Team kit for $126 + shipping on Newegg, a G.Skill kit for $130 + shipping or some more Corsair RAM for $135 on Amazon that almost certainly can clock to 3600 CL18. Save yourself the extra $55 or time from having to return it to Amazon when you discover it's CL18.

If you want real B-Die, I think this G.SKILL Ripjaws V kit is the cheapest for $193 + $6 shipping from Newegg with 14-14-14-34 timings at 3000mhz. You can clock it to 3600 CL16 fairly easily. Pay the extra $10 for real B-Die or wait till a eBay coupon if you want cheap B-Die.

u/Thestupidmetadata · 45 pointsr/techsupportgore
u/Catolid · 44 pointsr/buildapcsalesuk

Not sure about this being much of a deal.


Total is £490; the RAM price was over £200 on amazon so maybe the prices were just elevated a good while ago or they're moving old stock, either way it's been sub £100 all round the web for months now which is where I assume the bulk of the "30% off" comes from. Convenient amazon price history link here

I guess it comes pre-assembled and thus presumably ready to work without flashing the bios for a £30 premium.

3 year warranty is nice too I guess.

I didn't shop around at all though so you can probably find better deals than just double checking the component costs vs amazon.

Hope I didn't miss anything very obvious.

u/Scratchjackson · 43 pointsr/Amd

thats a pretty badass bday present!

i have a genuine question tho, and not necessarily aimed at OP. Why do i see so many builds using the ryzen APU with a graphics card as well? is there a benefit to it? i understand builds that start with it and add a gpu later, but if you're buying it all at once would it not be better to grab a 2600 instead? (or a 1600 if its the R3 apu)

questions aside. congrats! im sure he'll remember building it fondly for the rest of his life.


edit: fair points all around! so if its the 2200 it makes perfect sense for best performance at price point. however if its a 2400 then you might as well have gotten a 2600 especially with them being 149 at walmart and amazon right now =

u/asdf767 · 42 pointsr/buildapcsales

Here's an intel chipset wifi card for the same price. bonus bluetooth as well.

u/beepbeepimmmajeep · 39 pointsr/delusionalcraigslist

"I priced everything out online and this is what it's worth" suuurrreee....

u/NorthStarPC · 37 pointsr/buildapcforme








This builds totals up to approximately $475 before taxes and rebates. This will handle a moderate amount of AutoCAD, coding, virtualization, and rendering. The system runs on a six-core processor with SMT. The build also comes with an appropriate mid-tier GPU. It meets the 4GB VRAM requirement for the AutoCAD application as well as DX11 and DX12 support. Also, a 500GB HP NVMe SSD was also included for quick boot, load, save, and transfer times while only costing $45. The motherboard is also a great B450 motherboard, with space for possible overclocking or boosting. 16GB of RAM clocked at 3000MHz is also included for a better AutoCAD experience. The CX650W is a reputable power supply from Corsair. It is not modular, but its quality is above average for this price point. Finally, to seal everything off, the Masterbox Lite 3.1 was chosen for the case. This case has decent aesthetics and efficient airflow for a sub-$50 mATX case. Do note that this takes advantage of the Newegg Black Friday sales, so prices may change. If you need a new build list close to the date of purchase, one can be provided.

Laptop Option:

This is $100 over budget per unit, however, it gives the systems more portability. The MSI Laptop will not have the same degree of performance as the tower systems, but will still meet or exceed requirements for AutoCAD and other cyber and design related tasks.

This HP Prebuilt is the best I can come up with near $500/unit.

This is similar to the DIY build, just 8GB instead of 16GB of RAM. (You can easily find an extra 8GB stick for like $30.)

Hope everything goes well.

u/rationis · 34 pointsr/hardware

Figured I'd post this more to show what a joke Tom's Hardware has become.

They conveniently ignored the a Ryzen 1600 which does just as well as the 1600X when both are overclocked, but for $219 and it comes with a very competent cooler.

The 7600K doesn't come with a cooler for the price point Tom's has them listed for, with a cooler, the 7600K will cost you around $269. $269 is uncomfortably close to what we see 1700's go for on buildapcsales.

u/yallfrompurchasing · 34 pointsr/RetroPie

I recommend the Canakit.

For $70 everything is included. I put an RPie together last Christmas and instead of relying on the wife and family to find the parts as gifts, I just sent them to that link. Super easy, and it's been running non-stop all day since then.

u/z0nk_ · 31 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Gotta get yourself a GPU brace, fam.

This one is actually really aesthetically pleasing

u/notpatstewart · 31 pointsr/buildapc

Gigabyte AC PCIe card

Best one for the money - essentially an Intel rebrand. Great speeds, drivers, magnetic antenna for you case, etc. I bought two, and the Intel equivalent for the low profile bracket on my HTPC.

u/gurgle528 · 31 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Did you not actually go to the site? It lists specifically what the money goes to, and says the total is around the same price you mentioned. There's no monitors, but there's about another $100 in shipping / taxes / handling.

The final ≈$100 is listed as "Suggested donation to help reach more classrooms." If you hover over the "?", it lets you know this is optional.

>Most kits are $50-$70 x 5 is still only $350.

From the site:

>CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 Complete Starter Kit - 32 GB Edition: $74.99 x 5 = $374.95

They also have 5 "learner labs":

>OSOYOO Raspberry Pi 3 DIY Starter learning Lab Kit (22 in 1) For Beginners: $29.99 x 5 = $149.95

That brings the total to $524.90, lower than your estimate. They then add about $90 of other fees on. The rest is a suggested donation.

>Also the prices for the CanaKits and OSOYOO DIY Kits don't match up either.

Yes, they do:

>The goal is rather specific to not offer specifics that they want.

How much more specific can they get? They even separated each type of fee.

u/Megabobster · 28 pointsr/buildapc

Here, have an upgrade guide. This is mostly oriented for gaming, but I tried to make it as general purpose as possible.

First off, if you're trying to survive gaming on an older system and are wanting to upgrade, remember to check out the PC Gaming Wiki as well as the Low Spec Gamer YouTube channel and /r/lowendgaming. There are lots of tips and tricks to get games running better, and if you discover your own, don't forget to share them!

  • If you have a motherboard older than DDR3, save and upgrade to a new platform. It's not worth investing in a platform that old for anything other than novelty purposes.

  • If you want to upgrade your motherboard (like if you're looking at buying an unlocked CPU but have a locked motherboard), save and build a whole new system, unless you happen to come across exactly what you want for cheap. Used motherboards are usually just as expensive as new ones so it's not really worth investing that much into an older platform.

  • If you have an Intel motherboard and want to upgrade your CPU, see my reply to this comment. Character limit, woo!

  • If you have an AMD motherboard, I'm not as experienced with this but upgrading to an 8320 or 8350 Black edition would be good.
  • I'll do some research and put some detailed information here later; like I did for Intel processors. Again, after the aforementioned good night's rest.

  • When buying any used processor, especially on eBay, be very wary of scams. Any price that seems too good to be true or is from a seller with very little feedback is something of which you should be very wary.

  • If you have less than 8GB of RAM, buy a 2x4GB kit. Dual channel actually makes a difference these days. If you want more, well, divide the amount you want by the number of slots you have. 16GB / 4 slots = 4GB sticks, so get a 4x4GB kit. PCPartPicker is a good resource for this, although new DDR3 is getting more expensive. It might be worth looking at the used market, but be careful you don't buy ECC RAM (server memory) unless you have a motherboard and processor that support it.

  • If your system isn't using an SSD as its boot drive, buy an SSD and reinstall your OS onto it. I don't know if I can recommend a SSD smaller than 250GB considering how cheap they're getting. Brand doesn't matter a whole lot but make sure to do a little research first. PCPartPicker, again, is a great resource for this. Filter by the minimum capacity you want and sort by lowest price, then go from there. Samsung is expensive but reliable; I don't know a lot about other brands.

  • If you're running out of space, 2TB HDDs are pretty cheap and reliable these days. Here's a Seagate one, although I couldn't find Western Digital's equivalent for some reason.

  • I don't really know much about graphics cards other than they're hard to buy new these days. If you buy new, I can't recommend anything with less than 4GB of VRAM, because modern games are getting better at using it. If you buy used, try not to go less than 2GB. Other than that, pick what fits your budget and performance needs, and remember you dont have to run everything on max settings. Dropping the settings a little can allow older cards to still compete today. I still run a 7870 and haven't found any unplayable games yet; 99% of games I get a solid 60, and once I upgrade to an e3-1240v3 that's in the mail I expect that to go to 99.9%.

  • Make sure you have a good PSU. You can get really solid ones for $50 or less these days. Don't forget this one when upgrading your system, unless you already have a good PSU. This is the SeaSonic one I've been recommending a lot. Fully modular and 80 Plus Bronze seems pretty good to me. PSUs are a topic of a lot of controversy, though, so make sure to do your research.

  • Similarly, investing in a case you like will last you a long time and significantly improve a build's appearance. Not its frames, though, so this isn't a priority. Pick one with all the features you want, good cable management options, something you don't mind looking at, that kind of stuff. Look up a review (google "[case name] review") where someone builds a computer in it so you can get an idea of what kind of issues people run into when building in it and if those issues are dealbreakers for you.

  • Optical drives aren't really used this day but if you don't have one it can be worth it to pick one up. Blu-ray drives are getting cheaper, too. PCPartPicker -> optical drives -> filter by features -> sort by price.

  • Monitors I cant speak much on, but if you're gaming at all, get one that goes at least 120hz at its native resolution, and don't get one lower than 1080p. If you don't do any gaming, make sure you get an IPS panel. I personally can't recommend any resolution other than 1080p (1920x1080) because compatibility issues are annoying and most software is either designed to work at 1080p, or have workarounds to run at 1080p. 4k is the next jump worth taking since that seems to be the next big standard (again, in my opinion), but hardware is still a generation or two out from that being mainstream.

  • Multiple monitors are a thing. I don't think I can live with less than 3 monitors again. It's so nice to have a game on the center monitor, a webpage on the left, and a voip program on the right. You can kind of do this with window snapping, but, well, you can also do that with 3 monitors for much more information when you need it.

  • Invest in good network gear. I cannot stress this enough. It will cost a chunk of money but will make your life so much better. If you're renting a modem from your ISP, or your modem/router has your ISP's logo on it, you need to upgrade. I'm currently running the Netgear R7000. If you're on cable internet, get a Motorola SurfBoard and something like the R7000. If you're on DSL, there's a variant that has a phone jack for dialing in. If you have fiber, the ONT that you have isn't replaceable but it's probably fine (but you'll still want to replace the included router). For all of these, you'll probably need to look up a guide on switching and it will probably involve calling your ISP. Expect to spend $200ish on the equipment, but seriously, you won't be constantly rebooting your router, wondering why the WiFi isn't working this time, etc. And a good modem will let you know if it can contact the network or not so you'll know if the internet is actually out or not. And if you're renting a router, you'll save money in the long run.

  • If you're using WiFi, get a good network card. I saw this one linked on this subreddit the other day and it looks pretty good. I've personally found USB WiFi dongles unreliable, but YMMV.

  • Don't forget to upgrade your peripherals. Check out /r/mechanicalkeyboards, /r/steamcontroller (it's about more than just the Steam Controller there, the name is a little misleading TBH), and the YouTube channel Rocket Jump Ninja (he does mouse reviews). I think /r/emulation has had some good threads on controllers, too. There's fun stuff like Mayflash adapters for GameCube controllers, or you could pick up a bluetooth dongle for a DualShock 3 or DualShock 4 (or WiiMote passthrough in Dolphin). There's lots of fun to be had in the peripheral department.

    I think that's about everything. Let me know if I missed anything and I'll include it.

    edit: Updated some stuff and tried to include more details.
u/Switchen · 27 pointsr/buildapc

Managed to find a couple options.




I don't have any personal recommendations for you, but these ones look pretty good.

u/Duderocks18 · 26 pointsr/IWantToLearn

I've started to get into electronics myself, and I can say that soldering is easy, but you need the right tools for the job.
You'll need an adjustable temperature soldering iron and 1/2 milimeter iron/lead solder as the bare minimum.

I suggest grabbing some tip tinner, solder wick & vacuum, and some cheap boards to practice soldering.

This video shows how to do the actual soldering, while this video covers the tools you'll need and explains their use. These videos are made by EEV Blog and explain soldering in GREAT detail, which is how I learned to do it.

As far as making actual circuits, you have to have an idea AND parts to fulfill your idea. The Arduino UNO is a great way to program and test circuits. It's essentially a small comptuer designed to repeat whatver task you give it over and over. Alternatively, there's the Raspberry Pi, which comes in a few different models. The difference between the Pi and the Arduino is that the Pi is essentially a mini computer. You can literally hook it up to a monitor via hdmi and slam an operating system into it.

Both boards typically come in kits like this one for the Ardunio, or this one for the Raspberry Pi. The Ardunio kits with come with a lot of peripherals, like sensors and LEDs that actually do things, while you'll have to invest more with a Raspberry Pi. These kits come with detailed instructions, code you can copy and paste, and are a great way to learn how circuitry works, and is exactly what I'm doing right now. I'm no expert by any stretch of the imagination, I've just done a decent amount of research to find out what's what.

There are two ways to hook up circuits - temporarily and (somewhat) permanently. Breadboards are used to prototype circuits without having to solder anything, typically using these wires to link different parts of the circuits together. Soldering components to those green boards I linked earlier is what you'd do when you have your circuit up and running and want to move it to something more permanent. I say "more" permanent because you can usually de-solder stuff if you needed a component for something.

Adafruit has a decently sized library of projects you can try. They often sell stuff in kits where you get everything you need to make something -- for example, this DIY MIDI controller.

Sparkfun has a great series of articles that explain the very basics of circuits and electricity

Hopefully I've explained everything enough so that you can venture off on your own. Feel free to ask questions!

u/Feanor23 · 24 pointsr/RetroPie

That is exactly what got me here... can someone confirm this as a decent option? For now I just want to do older sims up to SNES, I realize I would probably need an upgrade for PSX/N64/Wii.

How about a good controller option?

u/TechnicallyNerd · 23 pointsr/hardware

Forget about the i5 for $20 more, at $160, you can go for the Ryzen 5 2600 for a mere $6 more.

Unless you don't need a GPU at all or you do need a GPU but you just need GT 1030 level graphics, the Ryzen 5 2600 is the way to go in my opinion.

u/OculusSupport · 23 pointsr/oculus

I'm really sorry about that. Poor tracking can happen for a few reasons: exceeding bandwidth on your system, incompatible USB ports, of even a non-functional sensor, among other things. Since you seem to have tried the sensors by themselves, I would guess that you are either exceeding the bandwidth, or that your USB 2.0 ports are somehow incompatible. Your best bet is to purchase this add-on card (must be this exact one): I'd also continue to speak with us on the support ticket in case there is some software component that can be resolved, such as updating USB drivers or disabling a conflicting application. Hope that helps.

u/grepnork · 22 pointsr/apple

I wrote this for another thread on the same subject a while back. The main bottleneck/expense is moving from single processor to dual processor. If I had it to do over (and hadn't come across a 2009 model at a bargain price) I'd get the 2010 chassis. The 2009 model uses a very odd lidless processor design which is unique to that year and complicates upgrading. The 2010's also have faster RAM which means you won't have to buy new RAM to upgrade the processor.


  • Highpoint Technologies Rocket 640L for SATA 6Gb/ps combined with any SATA SSD.

  • For true speed OWC offer a range of M2 SSD PCIE cards, although these are expensive they will give you current generation SSD speeds. There are plenty of cheap M2 SATA PCIE cards available and the drives themselves are reasonably priced, but many unfortunately can't be used as boot drives in the Mac (NVME issues). MacProSSDOptions offers a list of ones that work.

  • Any recent 9xx and above nVidia card will work with nVidia's web drivers (bloody hard to find, search the Hackintosh sites for current links and ALWAYS upgrade the drivers before you upgrade the OS). I have GTX 970 which drives three monitors happily and offers HDMI out. What you won't get with the non-mac nVidia cards is the grey boot screen, you need a Mac card for that hence the advice I offer about the EFI cards later on. I've run twin 9800 GTX's, an 8800 GT and a GTX 970 in my 2009 model without issues - you just need to make sure the card you buy has 6 pin power connectors on the card itself and you'll need a set of 6 pin PCiE power connectors for the Mac Pro Backplane.

  • If you can find an upgraded processor board and processor for reasonable money a hacked firmware upgrade for the 4,1 to the 5,1 is available, it's a really simple upgrade to perform. This also allows you to use faster 1333 MHz RAM.

  • Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card for rear facing USB 3.0.

  • An Apple BCM94360CD card and adapter will provide Bluetooth 4 LE, and 802.11 ac connectivity (which provide continuity and handoff).


  • Always keep a Mac EFI graphics card in the machine or handy, I have one of the old GT120's, inevitably when the OS upgrades you'll forget to upgrade the Nvidia web drivers first and that renders the mac useless without an EFI card available.

  • There is plenty of space in the CD drive enclosure for SSDs and other upgrades - they're much more knowledgeable about third party parts and driver issues than the Mac crowd who generally don't deal with these things too much. I've frequently found information there on PCiE SSDs, video drivers, even sound drivers, that I couldn't get help for elsewhere.

  • The dual core 2009 series is the best one of the 2009 models to own, the processors can be upgraded to the point where it comes near the 2013 Mac Pro Geekbench score. If you don't have a dual processor board from the get go then the upgrade to one is very expensive indeed and the parts are hard to find.

  • The 2.66 Ghz 4,1 uses lidless processors (as do all of the other 2009 models) which are impossible to find upgrades for. You will have to convert the board or do the riskiest upgrade of your life in order to use the better processors. Information on the board conversion is hard to find (I'm looking if anyone out there has it!).

  • Lots of helpful information is available at TonyMacx86 and other Hackintosh forums. In my experience they are more knowledgeable about third party hardware and driver issues than the Mac crowd - I had major sound driver issues with Mavericks and they were the only people with a solution.

  • If you can find a 5,1 (2010 tower) at a price you can afford go for that one as it has standard heat shielded processors rather than the lidless version in the 2.66Ghz 4,1 - always check the serial number before you buy as many 5,1 machines are really 4,1's with the hacked firmware.
u/Kyrond · 22 pointsr/buildapc

Just my opinion, I am no expert, but these seem like the best choices as they are popular, and consideration how much work it would take to design them.
Also check the most popular on Amazon, Newegg and PC part picker.

CPUs from one socket look almost the same right?
So a LGA 1151 and AM3+ CPUs.

For RAM, classic PCB with black chips, maybe another one with a very simple heatspreader in different colors, as it would take quite a lot of work to create realistic heatspreaders for little benefit IMO.

Any HDD, they all look similar.

For SSDs, Samsung are the most popular and very simple to do.

Three most popular CPU coolers prolly are CRYORIG H7, Hyper 212 EVO, and Corsair H100i, maybe with addition of a single fan AIO like Corsair H55.

GPUs are tougher:

u/theplankton · 22 pointsr/Vive

I dont think its a USB3 issue, I think it an incompatible USB chipset issue. I had nothing but problems at first, USB3 wouldnt work at all, USB2 worked better but still major issues. I then installed the USB3 PCIe card recommended by valve and ALL issues were solved. I have no problems now at all.

edit: this is the card i got

u/epsiblivion · 21 pointsr/buildapc

I have an older model of this, but it works great. it really helps to have an antenna that extends to a higher position that's not directly plugged in to the bottom of the tower sitting on the ground.

u/FatalDosesOfOsmosis · 21 pointsr/GameDealsMeta

Guarantee it? Easy! Build something better:

u/glurtz · 21 pointsr/oculus

For the 2 sensors on the wall above the computer I'm using 10ft USB 3.0 extension cables. For the 3rd camera I'm using a 16.4ft USB 2.0 extension cable, as well as a 6ft USB 3.0 extension cable because the 2.0 cable wasn't long enough. I have all 3 cameras plugged into the same USB controller on the motherboard. Since I'm using a 2.0 extension cable, the 3rd camera is running via USB 2.0.

I'm using a 10ft HDMI extension cable and a 10ft USB 3.0 cable for the headset. The extension cables are electrical taped together and secured to my desk using velcro straps. I have the headset USB plugged into a PCI-E USB card I bought because I was running out of USB ports.

It's worth noting that for the first couple of days, I was getting occasional errors where the it said the headset was disconnected and I would have to unplug the USB and plug it back in. Since moving the headset to the USB on the PCI-E card (off the same controller as the sensors) I have not had this issue or any other issues to speak of.

6ft 3.0 Extension

16.4ft 2.0 Extension

10ft 3.0 Extension

USB PCI-E Expansion Card

10ft HDMI Extension

u/Crashboy96 · 20 pointsr/buildapcsales

Same exact price on Amazon, would definitely rather buy it there even if it has taxes.

u/speeb · 19 pointsr/RetroPie

Like u/Jack_Bohlen said - the documentation is really good and you should be able to find answers to most of your questions. Being able to read and follow instructions carefully is important, especially if you get into doing anything from the command line.

If you can follow directions, you should have very few problems going from a box full of components to a basic working system in a short time.

Here are the instructions I gave a friend recently:

u/kami77 · 19 pointsr/oculus

More info here, including a working PCI-E card:

Basically it looks like Intel and Fresco controllers are good. That throws a lot of motherboards more than a couple years old out of contention.

Amazon links for your convenience:

u/diminutive_lebowski · 19 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Cybereality, from the Oculus support forums, has recommended this card:

u/Dragnerok_X · 18 pointsr/lowendgaming

I wouldn't call that a deal; I'd call that a scam. Notice that the seller is "Just Launched", is asking $20 less than the competition, and most importantly has no buyer feedback.

u/VRFour · 16 pointsr/buildapc

As far as bang for your buck, I think the Hyper 212+ is a better buy. It's about two-thirds of the price of the Hyper 212 Evo and you'll only see a minimal benefit with the Evo (which is from the better fan, if I recall correctly).

You really can't go wrong with either cooler but if you're already over budget or need to save a few dollars somewhere, I'd say the 212+ is a better buy - especially if you're only doing some conservative overclocking.

u/CompC · 16 pointsr/PS4
u/5812340681 · 16 pointsr/buildapcsales



TP-Link Archer T6E AC1300 PCIe Wireless WiFi Network Adapter Card PC Heatsink Technology

u/DarthLego · 16 pointsr/hardwareswap

Might want to reconsider your pricing on the Ryzen 5 1600

u/Archvanguardian · 15 pointsr/techsupport

Yeah I'd recommend this over the USB suggestions. Get a good one. Or try the power link setup.
This is what I use.

u/guruguys · 15 pointsr/oculus

While technically correct for the most part, this comment seems to be exaggerating things a bit. You only need three USB ports for Rift out of the box, a fourth port only if you buy a third optional sensor. You don't need a usb2.0 at all, you can run headset and two sensors on usb 3.0 fine and if you buy a forth sensor it will automatically downgrade it to a usb2.0 with the included extension cable it comes with.A $20 pci usb card can be purchased if there are any USB issues at all. Stating HDMI"1.3" as if it would be any different than any HDMI that would ship on a compatible graphics card is also a bit intimidating to those who would think '1.3' is something different. If your newer card happens to only have display-port (rare), or you are already using HDMI for your monitor and you don't have a second HDMI out, you can use an adapter to go displayport to hdmi to either the monitor or Rift.

For most people its only the $160+ graphics card that is the main upgrade needed.



u/Matazat · 15 pointsr/buildapc

Currently using this one, haven't had any issues yet. TP-Link N300 Wireless PCI-Express Adapter (TL-WN881ND)

u/CIockwerk · 14 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Hey! It looks like you've got a pretty solid build started here! I just want to point out a few things to make your life just a little bit easier.

  1. The motherboard you have will NOT work with the CPU that you've chosen. You picked a Z170A board, which works with the 6th and 7th generation (if BIOS is flashed) of Intel CPU's, and you're buying an 8th generation. So I would recommend this board or this one instead. Either will work, it just depends on how much money you want to spend.
  2. Don't buy the power supply you've picked. It puts out way more wattage than you'll use, so I would recommend saving some money and maybe picking up this one. As a bonus it has an RGB fan, so that's kinda cool. It's also fully modular, meaning that you only need to plug the cables into the PSU that you need instead of having extras to hide in your case.
  3. I'd also save some money on your RAM. This set is cheaper, faster, and only requires that you use two of your RAM slots instead of all four. More upgradeability in the future!
  4. Think about if you really need 2TB of storage right now. The 1TB SSD you have picked out is going to be great, and if you're new to PC gaming it's going to have plenty of space for awhile. You can always pick up a new HDD (like the Seagate one you have in your cart) later down the road.
  5. With the money that you've saved, I think that you could upgrade your graphics card from your 1060 (a GREAT option, don't get me wrong) to a 1070 like this one. (EVGA is a great company in my opinion, and I love their graphics cards.) It's a great contender for both 1440p and 1080p gaming!
  6. Others have said to get a cheaper air cooler instead of opting for the water cooler that you've picked. If you decide to go that route (completely fine) I would maybe go with something like this if you want something extra beefy to keep your CPU cool, or this less beefy one. Either way, 8th generation CPUs run hot, so the water cooler you have would work great.

    So there ya go! I hope that you enjoy your new build, it's going to be amazing! If you PM me I'll add you on Steam and we can play some games together when your build is all set!
u/WthLee · 14 pointsr/Vive

fixed this on mine just by reducing the camera bandwith to the second or third lowest notch. the built in usb hub in the headset is trying to push data from 2 controllers, and the video of the camera to the computer, and since a large percentage of usb controllers on motherboards arent really providing the needed overall bandwidth, despite being usb 3, you get tracking issues. also, usb 2 provides better performance, you should switch to that if you are using usb 3. the chipsets with non optimal performance were already ID´d by oculus, they offered a link to amazon to a pci express usb3 controller which works most likely with the full camera bandwidth on the vive.

crappy chipsets:

Texas Instruments USB 3.0 xHCI

Etron USB 3.0 Extensible Host Controller

VIA USB 3.0 eXtensible Host Controller - 1.0 (Microsoft)

ASMedia USB 3.0 eXtensible Host Controller

ASMedia XHCI Controller

Renesas USB 3.0 eXtensible-Hostcontroller

proposed fix:

u/Bldpcslsthrwwy · 13 pointsr/buildapcsales

Ryzen 1600 is $150 too

u/Freyja-Lawson · 13 pointsr/intel

I would like to second some of the other people here.

Despite knowing this is the Intel subreddit, since you have to replace your motherboard anyways, you might find it worthwhile instead looking at AMD's Ryzen platform. A 2600 ($15 cheaper), 2600X (same price as the 9400f) or 3600 ($50 more) may prove a more worthwhile buy.

It would help more to know exactly what your usecase is, but, going for Ryzen should be the correct choice in the price range of that 9400f in more circumstances than the 9400f would be. Also take into account that the Ryzen CPUs are all unlocked and may be overclocked whereas only K-SKU's on Intel may be.

I hope that this gave you some more insight!

u/d1rkSMATHERS · 13 pointsr/gadgets

Built one this week, actually. Here's the guide I followed:

I bought my raspberry and 2 controllers off of Amazon. Cost me about $100 total. Canakit makes starter kits for around $80 that comes with all the hardware you need to make it ready to load games. Took about an hour to have it ready to load all your games. I have around 2k games from 5 different systems and they all fit on a 32 gb card.

Edit: I found the kit I bought. It was $70

u/skilloz · 13 pointsr/ARMS

Using an Elgato Game Capture HD, and then recording it via OBS.

u/isthatdomdom · 13 pointsr/NZXT

I woke up last Monday morning and had the urge to build a gaming PC out of nowhere. I literally reached over to my phone while laying in bed at 5 AM in the morning and started ordering parts off Amazon and a couple days later here's the finished product. I had 0 PC building experience before this but thankfully Reddit and Google had all the answers I needed.


MOBO: ASUS Prime Z370-A II (in case I want to upgrade to a 9th gen)

GPU: EVGA 2070 Super XC Ultra Gaming

Ram: 16GB Corsair Vengeance C15 3000mhz

Storage: 1TB WD_Black NVMe // 1TB Seagate SSHD // 128GB Unknown Brand NVMe (running windows on it)

CPU: Intel i7-8700

CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken X62 (using the 2 NZXT 140mm fans that came with it as intakes)

PSU: Seasonic FOCUS Plus 850 Gold

Case: H500 (base model)

Rear Fan: NZXT AER RGB 2 120mm (exhaust)

Top Fan: NZXT AER RGB 2 120mm (exhaust)

Top/Bottom LED: NZXT Hue 2 300mm LED Strips

Monitor: Lenovo Legion Y27gq-20 27-inch WLED G-SYNC

Mouse: Logitech G903

Keyboard: Logitech G Pro

Headphones: Logitech G533

Cable Extensions: Asiahorse Customization Mod Sleeve Extension Power Supply Cable Kit

u/piokor06 · 13 pointsr/buildapc

I just got this on amazon to help with sag on my 1080. Mine was sagging less than yours but this was only $20 and an excuse to open up the computer and work on it a little bit.

Atlas Graphics Card Brace Support. A Video Card Holder, GPU brace, for custom Deskto Pc Gaming. a GPU stand case mod.

u/iAmMitten1 · 12 pointsr/letsplay

I recently made a long comment with some advice for people starting a channel. I'l just post it here:

Picking A Name: Alright. It's time to start your channel. You've kicked the idea around for long enough. This is the first, and arguably the most important step in your Youtube career. Try to think of something different that hasn't been done. Don't copy the style of someone else's channel. For example, say you play Pokemon, and your name is Kyle, don't put KyleDoesPokemon. It will seem like you copied the name of SkyDoesMinecraft. Another thing is to avoid tons of numbers and X's. Say two channels have the same video uploaded, you can't see the views, subscriber count, comments or ratings. You are basing your viewing choice based on only the name of the video (which is the same) and the channel's name. Are you going to watch the video by XxBigJ0hnxXCoDK1llerzXx or Conspicuous Cactus (I apologize, I couldn't think of a catchy name)? Some will choose the
first, but most will choose the latter. I'm not saying that you can't achieve success with a cough bad cough name, but it will be a little more difficult. Ultimately, the Channel Name is just an attention grabber, like thumbnails and titles, but we'll get the that later. If your content is good, your Channel Name will not matter, as much.

Video Recording: You're set with your channel now. You've set it up and got the name you want. Great. Now the fun starts. If you don't want to spend a lot of money, i'd recommend the Dazzle, as far as capture cards go. I used one on my old channel, and it worked flawlessly. The only downside is that it only records in standard definition (144p-480p), unless you use an S-Video cable. This isn't good quality. But it's good enough to test the waters to see if you can create good content. If you want something that will work every time, and records in 1080p, I can't recommend the Elgato Game Capture HD enough. It's only downside is that it's pricey ($155). But you are getting a product that is the best in it's class. Back in 2010, you could get away with not having HD quality video, because HD PVR's were expensive. But not today. If you ever hope to achieve any sort of success, you must have video quality that is at least 720p. It's just not an option anymore.

Audio Recording: If you have a Turtle Beach headset, or some other USB powered headset w/ a mic, you can use that TO START WITH. Turtle Beach's have a good enough mic that it will be decent enough until you decide to move up a tier. If you want a great starting mic, that isn't a headset, the Blue Snowball is tough to beat. It sounds great, looks decent (like that really matters), and is cheap (in terms of cost, not quality). Depending on what color you get, it will run around $40-$50, which really isn't to bad for a microphone. You may also want to invest in a Pop Filter. A Pop Filter does exactly what the name says, it filters pops. It will remove, to a certain extent, the popping sound when saying p's, the ssss sound with s's, and all sorts of other things. They are definitely a good investment. However, if you don't want to buy one, you can search how to make one with a sock.

Editing Software: If you get a Dazzle, it will come with some decent editing software. It's nothing special, but it works well enough to get the job done. Hell, I used it for almost 2 years. But, if you want something better, and more professional, you should look at Sony Vegas or Adobe Premier. Both are great, and offer things that the other doesn't have, so you'll need to think about what kinds of things you'll be doing with it. I recommend Sony Vegas. I have never had a problem with it, and the learning curve isn't too high.

Channel Art: This is important. Very, very important. When someone views your channel, this will either make them continue their quest to view one of your videos, or it will make them immediately look elsewhere. This part is somewhat tricky to give advice for. It just has to look good. Don't just copy and paste logos of game's that you'll be playing onto a picture and call it "Channel Art". Use Photoshop, and put some effort into it. If you can't make it yourself, there are several people around /r/letsplay that will make it for you, for a small fee (/u/fuyi is fairly popular). There are also some websites that are easy to use and will make some decent (i'm using this word a lot, aren't I?) Channel Art that will work for a few months, or until you get around to making some yourself.

Thumbnails: Another incredibly important part of your Youtube Channel. You could have the best content ever, but if your Thumbnails suck, you won't get anywhere. The key to Thumbnails is to keep it simple. Use a nice, easily readable font, use complementary colors, and don't try to put too much in the Thumbnail. Avoid the lower right corner, as the duration of the video will cut off some of the Thumbnail. You can use this site to make some thumbnails too. Like the Channel Art, that site good for starting out, but you will want to learn how to make your own, using a program like Photoshop. If you start making your own thumbnails, the resolution for them is 1280x720, just so you know the correct size.

Video Titles: Video Titles are something a lot of people seem to mess up. It's actually really easy to make a good title. Some just put something like Let's play Minecraft episode 23. While that does tell you what the video is, it doesn't grab your attention. Something like Let's Play Minecraft: Part 23 | The Sands are Evil is better because it gives an idea of what will be going on in the video, which would probably be a problem with sand in the example. You can also you some punctuation like -'s, |'s, or :'s to help organize your videos.

Descriptions: There are two basic ways that you can have an effective video description. The first is to make a somewhat exaggerated statement that is relevant to the video, THE SAND WILL SWALLOW YOU WHOLE! RUN! RUN FOR YOUR LIVES!. The second way is keep it simple, Attention Traveler's: Please stay away from the sand. Several corpses have been found within them with large amounts of sand in their lungs. This is just my opinion, since I usually try to keep my descriptions witty. The third option is to just describe the video, In today's episode, we travel to an harsh landscape filled with sand and the dreams of dead travelers. You can either make the description funny and witty or you can keep it simple. Either way, don't put to much in it. Descriptions need to be kept short. It's also not a bad idea to put link to other videos in the series in the description or links to Twitter or other social media outlets.

Tags: Tags are the backbone to any successful Youtube Channel. All tags should be relevant to the video. Don't put other channel's names in their. Not only is it unproffessional, but it's useless (to a certain extent). If you search for Roosterteeth Minecraft Episode 100, and you see someone else's video below Roosterteeth's, you're going to watch Roosterteeth's video. Youtube has started to crack down on people who don't properly use the tagging system. If you make a Minecraft video and put Justin Bieber naked as a tag, you run the risk of your channel being given a strike or having the video taken down. Just put tags that are relevant to your video. If you make the 23rd episode of your Minecraft series, put tags like Minecraft Part 23, Minecraft Episode 23, Let's Play Minecraft Part 23, ect.

Other Things to Know:

  • Monetizing: You may want to monetize right from the beginning, and it is tempting, but you won't see enough of a return to make it worth the time of those who are viewing the ads. You may make a few dollars within your first couple months, so it's not worth it. Wait until your are getting upwards of 1000 views per day and then monetize.

  • Fan Interaction: Interact with people who comment whenever you can, whether it be on Youtube, Twitter, or somewhere else. Sometimes, you may want to consider replying to a comment, even if someone insults you or your channel. You may also find that most of the people who make those kinds of comments are dicks, but you might find someone who isn't (Here's a good example). It never hurts to be nice on the internet, especially when trying to grow a channel. You don't want to get popular, and then have a bunch of people look at the old comments you made and realize that you're an asshole.

    Concluding: Obviously, there is a bunch more to say, but there's a 10,000 character limit to these posts. To wrap it all up, you need to have a Channel that is well made, and regularly produces good content. If you're just starting out, good luck. You'll need it.
u/randolf_carter · 12 pointsr/buildapc

Don't get a USB one. PCI-Express cards are more reliable, have larger antennas that can be adjusted. USB devices can be subject to random disconnects, poor bandwidth negotiations with other USB device, poor heat dissipation, and shoddy drivers. You can certainly find a USB wifi dongle that works for you, but I wouldn't risk reliability on your network connection.

I have this tp link AC1300 card and its working great on my wife's desktop that recently got moved too far to run ethernet to.

edit: yes thats the same one you are looking at, it works fine

u/Broman_907 · 12 pointsr/RetroPie

Same here. Tried to be honest but Nintendo shipping 10 total minis to each store in Anchorage (insanity) pushed me over the edge. Amazon. Do it. that's the one I ordered. Complete kit. Join the resistance

u/RearEchelon · 12 pointsr/buildapc

5 GHz isn't great at going through walls. If it's directly under you, you should be okay, but my phone switches to the 2.4 GHz network when I go into the bathroom in my apartment. I'd get dual-band just to be safe.

I'm not in Canada, but has this one. It's pretty highly-rated.

u/McSnorelaxative · 12 pointsr/hardwareswap

You might want to lower the price a bit. Right now, it's $209 on Amazon with free One-Day shipping for Prime members.

u/manirelli · 11 pointsr/buildapc

The price is set by the retailer and then we get a percentage of the sale if you make the purchase. The price is the same on the retailer as an affiliate link.

For example:

Direct Amazon link for an R6 2600 $149.99:

PCPP affiliate link for an R6 2600 $149.99:

u/foehammer111 · 11 pointsr/readyplayerone

It's pretty easy to build a Raspberry Pi for retro gaming. I have built 3 of them recently: 1 for myself, and 2 for family members.

First thing you'll need is the Raspberry Pi itself. You can get it for as cheap as $35, but that's just the system board. No power cord, SD card, or even a case. So I recommend getting this kit for $70.

It comes with everything you'll need: the system board, a case, 32 GB SDcard, HDMI cable, etc. This is the latest model, the Raspberry Pi 3. It has 4 USB ports for controllers, wifi, ethernet, even bluetooth. You'll also need controllers. The Raspberry Pi works best with Xbox and Playstation controllers. You'll have to use USB controllers, but I've read that the new Xbox One S controllers work with Bluetooth. Hell, you can even use your phone! If the Raspberry Pi is connected to your Wifi, just open up Chrome, enter the IP address, and BAM! Touch screen controller.

Next, you'll need RetroPie. This is a pre-made image for the Raspberry Pi. It has all the emulators and GUI you'll need. All you do is supply the ROMs. You can download the latest RetroPie build from here.

Next is the ROMs. I downloaded all the ROMs from EmuParadise.

This part will take some time since you need to download the game individually, but you can find any game you are looking for. Even rare prototype versions of unreleased games for any system you can think of.

Finally, here's a good tutorial for putting it all together. Hope this helps!

u/UsernameWasBoring · 11 pointsr/brasil

EDIT2: Só como referencia: iMac i7 comprado pelo governo, segue o baile comparando com o PC montado e este meu comentario US$1.200,00 de diferença.

O preço do iMac é exagerado até la fora: iMac top de linha i5

Quem entende de computadores sabe que você monta um PC MELHOR por um preço bem menor: Top de linha no MINIMO 5x mais forte, e o mesmo preço. Na verdade, um exagero, porque montei com as melhores peças no mercado atualmente. Poderia até ter poupado mais e aproveitado o quad-channel do ram na placa mãe, que seria melhor e mais barato, só quis ser overkill.

Os produtos Apple são overpriced em QUALQUER mercado, só ver a linha de ultrabooks deles por 2k dolares e os concorrentes pelo mesmo valor (Razer Blade).

EDIT: link talvez tenha problemas, então eis os itens:

u/ruinedxistenz · 11 pointsr/oculus

Rift S is a nice pickup and the natural progression looking to move up from PSVR. Your PC specs are great for VR, and it will be a massive improvement from PSVR in all areas.

You may want to consider a RiftS-dedicated pci-e usb3 card for your PC to ensure optimal bandwidth and power is delivered to the Rift S such as below; this will improve performance and reliability. Most motherboard chipsets are not up to the task in this regard, so it's a great $20 investment many overlook. The one linked is known to be one of the best performers for Rift S. Note if you do get this don't install the inateck drivers, just use the Microsoft ones that auto load after installation:

u/Zaga932 · 11 pointsr/virtualreality

Rift CV1 > OG Vive in:

Angular resolution - ~20% higher

Optical clarity (Vive only clear when looking straight forward; Rift clear almost edge-to-edge)

Ergonomics (improved with $100 Deluxe Audio Strap; Vive still almost twice as front-heavy)

Audio (fixed by DAS)


Software platform (Home, Dash, ASW 2.0 - all more feature rich & polished than SteamVR-equivalents)

Game support (Oculus natively, SteamVR supported, SteamVR games run like native Oculus with OpenComposite; Vive has SteamVR natively, can access Oculus games via ReVive)

Performance (Vive renders at 3024x1680 @ 90Hz; Rift at [email protected] - 18% heavier GPU load per frame on a Vive)

A Vive is not an upgrade from a CV1. It's the complete opposite. It has a bit larger FOV (110x113 degrees; Rift 94x93) & an easier room scale setup (2 base stations need to be securely mounted to sturdy surface capable of absorbing vibrations, require 2 power outlets; for roomscale Rift needs 3 sensors @ 2x USB 3.0, 1x USB 2.0 + headset's USB 3.0; USB clusterfuck solvable by $23 PCIe USB expansion card (UK, Canada, Germany, France) - it loses in just about everything else.

That $200 Vive + $100 DAS is five times more expensive than the $60 Rift, 2,5x more expensive if you add a $60 sensor (which you can get here). If you already have the CV1, switching would be lunacy.

u/dramamoose · 11 pointsr/paradoxplaza

Those first three games are likely CPU limited while Rainbow Six is probably GPU limited. My immediate thought is overheating. Use a temperature monitoring software to check the temperature on your CPU. If it's high, consider cleaning out your CPU fan or replacing the thermal paste on your fan.

If you don't have one, I'd suggest getting an after-market CPU cooler. The Cooler Master 212 is what I use and I've always been extremely satisfied with the results. With the 4590 you won't have much room to overclock, but it will guarantee you aren't running into any thermal problems.

u/gopher_protocol · 11 pointsr/AskProgramming

Just a few ideas...

  • Nerdy stuff from ThinkGeek.
  • A Raspberry Pi kit, if you think he'd be into tinkering with hardware.
  • It's probably going to be more than $70, but a nice mechanical keyboard is a great gift. Das Keyboard, Code, and Logitech G710+ are safe choices.
  • Book-wise, consider Code. It's a classic for every programmer to read.
u/ChesswiththeDevil · 11 pointsr/Amd

I only have a EVGA 500w 80+ certified PSU. That is too weak for the Fury, right? I can sell this PSU to my business (I need to build a new computer for it anyway) and use that money toward a better PSU if I wanted but what would be a good (and relatively) cheap PSU to run the fury. I prefer Newegg or Amazon Prime.

EDIT: Fuck it, I pulled the trigger. Was sitting on the money to buy XFX/Nitro+ 480 but I've been rocking this 6950 for too long and I'm tired of waiting at this point. This seems like a killer deal for $275 and free shipping (I used the Paypal promo). Here's to new GPUs!

u/kavokie · 10 pointsr/headphones

Well... To be honest you did get a audio interface designed to work with guitars and singer style microphones... When what you needed was an external soundcard.

There are major audio interfaces by the music industry. And your cool USB soundcard has some of the more popular ones... Yay! But it does not have what you want. Booo!

Your soundcard/interface is not designed for 3.5mm jacks. so you will need adapters to make it work.

On the front you have two XLR inputs or you can use them as TRS inputs. Pre sonus calls them "2 combo XLR/¼” mic/instrument inputs"

TRS inputs are big headphone jacks... 1/4 inch type. They would go in the middle of the inputs on the front. You would feed your mic in there. How? You can get an adapter that will allow your 3.5mm headphone jack to fit 1/4 headphones to fit the front area. Something like this... Can get them at Radio Shack pretty cheap. Make sure they are stereo and not mono though.

You would need two of them, one for the headphones (labeled "phones") port in the back of the interface, and one for the mic part in the front of the interface.

If you are going to make music you got the right interface. If you are only using it as a really good soundcard, there are others that would fit you better. Like this...

Or if you got monies... this

At the beginning I called one an audio interface and the other a sound card. Audio interfaces are a card that focus on the interface part, meaning the recording/band aspect of music and their connectors.. Sound cards are just making sound like the audio interfaces, but they don't include the band interfaces/ports/jacks and usually go to 3.5mm jacks like your headphones want.

Hope this helps.

u/s97thli · 10 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

Amazon has had it for 260 for awhile now.

For the record, lowest has been 245 during the eBay coupon deal

u/cahutchins · 10 pointsr/hackintosh

Some people think it's cheating, but many hackintosh owners just skip the audio driver problem entirely and get a cheap USB-to-audio adapter. Plug it in, plug in a set of speakers, and that's literally all you have to do.

u/mentobros · 10 pointsr/gaming

Well the control panel he used is this but you could build your own control panel for cheaper by using one of these. If you wanted to only run MAME games then you could easily get by with a Raspberry Pi. Next you want the actual cabinet... There are a few routes you can go. You could buy a kit, you could buy some sheets of plywood and build one yourself using these plans, OR if you're lucky you could find an old broken arcade cabinet on craigslist for super cheap. Once you do all of that you'll have to get the software running on the raspberry pi. So going back on the cost... You could spend anywhere from $500 to $3000 all depending on the specifications you want.

Source: Built one myself

u/Frexxia · 10 pointsr/oculus

Oculus really needs to give some better information here. I cannot find the card they recommend (Amazon) anywhere here in Norway. I don't want to end up in a similar situation to OP where I buy a card and then that one is unsupported as well.

edit: Ordering from Amazon would cost me something like 650 NOK ($73). I could almost buy a new motherboard for that.

u/noorbeast · 10 pointsr/oculus

Both the Rift and Vive have their pros and cons, I have both and here is my cut and paste summary of just some of the comparative factors people may consider, as the topic has already been done to death:

The standard 2 forward facing camera Touch tracking has some FOV and distance related Touch occlusion, so a 3rd camera really is recommended for genuine roomscale.

The official Oculus experimental guide for 2 camera 360 degree tracking is here:

The recommended Oculus play area for diagonally opposed 360 tracking use is only 1.5M x 1.5M, with the cameras 2M apart.

To put that into some comparative context HTC recommends 2M x 1.5M as the minimum for the Vive 2 base station room-scale setup, with 3.55M x 3.55M being the recommended. People such as myself have tested Lighthouse out to nearly 10M, though that is pushing the envelope given how Lighthouse operates, see here for details:

The standard Rift HMD cable length is also a limiting factor for large roomscale use. By comparison my Vive tracked volume is 8Mx4M and the included HMD cable lets you take advantage of that space with a computer located halfway down the long side.

Some are reporting that hardware/cable issues can affect Touch tracking:

It took me a lot of fiddling to work out which USB ports gave the best results with my Rift, and still be able to use all the peripherals that go with my 3DOf compact motion simulator. I have yet to resolve all my Rift USB issues, with some visual jumps and persistent disconnects after a random period of time. A new Inateck card, as recommended by Oculus, is on its way (note some are still reporting issues, even with the recommended card):

Here is a list of additional hardware and cables that may been needed for full Oculus roomscale:

For Sensors:

1x Additional Sensor:
2x Monoprice 15-Feet USB 2.0 Extension:
2x Security Wall Mount- Adjustable Indoor/Outdoor Mount:
Inateck Superspeed 7 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card:

For HMD:

Cable Matters High Speed HDMI 10-Feet Extension Cable:
Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 10-Feet Extension Cable:

Touch does a pretty good job at simulating hands in VR. The Vive wands are great as things like guns and swords, both have their place.

I do a lot of public demos and to be honest the rift is far more problematic with cable management, USB related issues and setup time/issues, in comparison I can set up the Vive at schools and NGO offices in 15 minutes or less, including booting the computer and running the calibration setup.

In terms of other factors the world scale of the Rift is slightly larger in things like Longbow, which actually makes hitting things easier.

The Rift has less screen door effect but the god rays are significantly worse.

The Vive sweet spot is not as large or sharp.

The stereo overlap in the Rift is more noticeable.

The Rift has quality built in headphones and microphone, while the Vive has a built in camera but a poorer microphone.

The Vive has cutouts in the foam and accommodates glasses better.

Cost comparisons need to take in applicable shipping and taxes, the possible need for additional tracking cameras, compatible usb hardware, usb and hdmi cable extensions.

Oculus has ATS and ASW, SteamVR has ATW-reprojection but also allows Oculus ATS/ASW via the Oculus SDK:

Other extraneous factors to take into account include business practices, your room space and game play preferences, the shape of your head or any eyesight issues.

I have had the odd crash on Steam, but it is pretty rare, I have had far more significant issues with things like processing a refund via Oculus Help, which then bricked Medium and that took a week to sort out. So I think it fair to say both store fronts have their features, limitations and problems.

Personally I have found there is less difference between the HMDs than there is between individual users, based on having done thousands of public demos.

u/RetPallylol · 10 pointsr/buildapc

> yet you are comparing 1600 with 7600k

I don't understand the confusion here. You stated i5s are much better, I provided a comparison stating otherwise.

>why buy expensive ryzen platform

Ryzen 5 1600 is $219, i5 7600K is $229. Not sure if you're intentionally trolling at this point or just really out of the loop.

>what is the source of your benchmarks?

Ryzen 5 and i5 7600K benchmarks aren't exactly a mystery. Here's one from Paul's Hardware giving similar performance to the ones I linked.

u/landoooo · 10 pointsr/Amd

I think SSDs are cheap enough now that for a 1tb you'd be better off getting something like this

About the same cost as your 2 drives together and 240GB less storage, but you'll enjoy fitting that many games on the SSD. Plus by the time you run out of space, you might have the cash to upgrade to an M.2 SSD



Edit: Also, I'd go for something like this for RAM

Ryzen likes fast RAM, and most people consider 3200Mhz to be the minimum to consider buying. Also priced similar to the kit you have listed.

u/spvcegoat0 · 10 pointsr/oculus

Well, if you have a free PCI-E port on your motherboard an Inateck 3.0 USB card will do the trick.

Here is the one I use:

u/UniversityOutcast · 10 pointsr/hardwareswap

To back up the claim..this is Amazon's listing for about $135 shipped

u/RaptaGzus · 9 pointsr/Amd

Yeah it'll help
You can imagine where 2133 would be. Should be roughly the same difference between the 2666 and 3466 results.

Get any 3000MHz+ kit that people've said works, or is said to work in your mobo's QVL which you can find on its site.
This's great value:
Or, if you want something more muted: or

u/Earl_of_Cola · 9 pointsr/pcmasterrace

> Not in this case. 3kMHZ just aounds like you don't know your prefixes.

Well considering that it is industry standard to use MHZ instead of GHZ...

Edit: Your flair says "32 GB DDR4 3000[MHZ]". Do you not know your prefixes?

u/phoenixdigita1 · 9 pointsr/oculus

You made the same mistake I did. The 7 port card is not as good as the 4 port card. Moar ports is not better.

The 7 port card daisy chains through an additional USB hub causing more chance of issues. Not to mention all 7 ports go through the same host controller.

Read this blog

Then from this screenshot of my computer just then.

Note how the 7 port card goes from

Host Controller -> Root Hub -> Hub -> Sensor

Wheras the 4 port card goes from

Host Controller -> Root Hub -> Sensor

I would always recommend the 4 port one over the 7 port one

I'd like to see a screenshot of the Startech card like mine just to see how they all connect to the PCI bus if you have the time?

Startek will always be the better card but at a cost. Next in terms of quality for a single 4 port Inatek card (two if you really think you need them). I would put the 7 port card at the bottom of the list.

Infact I would not even be recommending it. Great work for putting together the video and it is very informative however you made the same mistake I did and went for moar ports. You should have chosen the 4 port card.

u/MaybeSomethingRandom · 9 pointsr/buildapcsales

Typical 16gb 3000mhz price.

CAS15 is $65 on amazon.

Might want to pcpartpicker stuff before you post it here.

u/votebleach2020 · 9 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I highly recommend this one: SilverStone PWM Fan Hub System Cables, Black (CPF04)

u/apmauj · 9 pointsr/uruguay

Ofertas previas al viernes afro:

u/hcweb · 9 pointsr/raspberry_pi

The items used:

Raspberry PI Zero <- Bougth mine at local store. <- Karaoke Mixer <- 128GB SD Card for storage <- USB Audio Card <- Wifi Adapter <- Usb Hub

A total of around ~$90


If a mic is needed that add $20 <- Mic

u/biscuit_taco · 9 pointsr/HomeServer

Hey p_orsk,

So glad to hear that we have another HomeLabber in our midst. I just thought I would take a minute and share with you my current build that has suited me very well. It is completely silent and power efficient, while still powerful enough to do what you want plus more. My build was also built to be small profile so this build is built around a Micro-ITX case. This build cost me $500 in the US in 2017, don't quite know what the price would be now.

  • CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 1600 Processor with Wraith Spire Cooler
  • Motherboard: ASUS PRIME A320M-K AMD Ryzen AM4 DDR4 HDMI VGA M.2 USB 3.1 Micro-ATX Motherboard
  • PSU: EVGA 430 W1, 80+ WHITE 430W
  • RAM: HyperX FURY Black 16GB Kit (2x8GB) 2133MHz DDR4

    As I said, this build should be completely silent. I went into the BIOS settings and turned it on Power-Saver mode for good measure, which makes things run a bit warmer, but keeps fan speeds down.

    I didn't list storage here, as it sounds like you got that covered. This motherboard also supports M.2 if you want to add that later.

    If I can make one suggestion, I would highly recommend getting into Virtualization. My poison of choice is Proxmox. I could really get into this, but it really helps when you are trying to expand.

    If you have any other questions, feel free to comment on this post, or shoot me a DM. I would be happy to help!

    [EDIT] This is just my experience. You will get 110 different answers from 100 different people in this world. You kinda just have to tinker to get what works for you.
u/RealParity · 9 pointsr/oculus

Oculus recommends only one extension card, this one:

u/t1m1d · 9 pointsr/buildapcsales

Many people report issues with low volume on this mic. I've owned two and can confirm it is very quiet on some systems. From what I can tell, this is caused by some motherboards not supplying sufficient voltage to power this unit. A cheap usb sound card like this one fixes that problem. Definitely a good mic for the price if you're just using it for voice comms.

u/eIImcxc · 9 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

Is it a great price though? Amazon is listing it at 185,88$ regular price. (164,99$ right now)

AMD YD2600BBAFBOX Processeur RYZEN5 2600 Socket AM4 3.9Ghz Max Boost, 3,4Ghz Base+19MB

u/dragon2knight · 9 pointsr/buildapcsales

Amazons matching this now(with $10.00 coupon):

I have this ram over a year now, it works great. For the money its a steal.

u/cunnl01 · 9 pointsr/technology

>The Raspberry Pi Starter Kit features a 3 Model B, 8GB NOOBS SD card, a case, 2.5A multi-region power supply, HDMI cable, optical mouse and keyboard, and a copy of Adventures in Raspberry Pi Foundation Edition.

>You Can Now Connect a Camera to Raspberry Pi Zero
Initially available online in the UK.., the £99 ($132) collection will roll out to the rest of the world over the coming weeks.

That is an approx 50% increase to the deals I've seen around. You only really need the raspberry pi, an sd card, and a 5v 2.5a power cord.

Most people already have HDMI cables, a mouse/keyboard. A case is nice but my media center pi just hangs out with it's components out, all naked on the media center table. It doesn't need no stinkin case.

Here's the Amazon kit @ 74.99

Adafruit throws in some more tinkering components for 89.95

Sparkfun also has that deal at 89.95

edit: spl

u/876102937 · 9 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/Retrobuster · 9 pointsr/oculus

I'd recommend buying a USB 3.0 expansion card if your motherboard has a spot for it. This one is suggested by Oculus.

Using a hub serves almost no purpose when it comes to VR because all of the power is still eventually being funneled through one usb port on your computer. That being said, it's possible the Rift and sensors will work with your current set up, but tracking might be a bit spotty using that many 2.0 ports for the sensors.

EDIT: I misread your post a bit. If you're only using 2 sensors and the headset, you should be fine with your set up. I'd recommend plugging the headset into a 2.0 along with one sensor and the other sensor into 3.0. You might need to play around with that part of it, but I think you'll be alright. I'd still recommend the expansion card though.

u/XPhantomBusterX · 9 pointsr/hardwareswap

This is how it breaks down from parts from ebay. Includes shipping. I'll even include links

Base Desktop - $50

Intel Core 2 Quad Q9550 -$30

EVGA 600W 80+ Bronze PSU -$50

16GB DDR2 - $20

WD Blue 1TB - $45

Sandisk 240GB SSD - $40

MSI Twin Froze GTX 770 - $83

Windows 10 Pro License -$7.50 since its so valuable to you. Also its 2018, be real. No one buys full keys or they buy them off eBay. Yes I know they are not legit but once again 2018 no one cares.

Total: $325.50

Even comes with a spare CPU, drive, and 8GB DDR2. Also, you could probably buy most of these parts for less. These were pulled from quick ebay searches. For example, the PSU could be closer to $20 in reality, the card would be closer to $70 and the drive would be around $25 for the HDD and $35 for ssd. That would be $257.50. Still could probably get lower than that. Get real with your prices.

u/GetJuiced · 9 pointsr/Amd

Yuh, you can get it here

u/feed_me_tecate · 8 pointsr/amateurradio

Hi! The Raspberry PI only has audio output. You need an external sound device to get the audio signal into the PI. It's likely that any cheeeep-o Amazon USB audio device will be discovered by the Linux kernel, no drivers needed. I have one of these ripped apart and soldered directly to an HT for packet work, and it does fine under Debian.

edit - wrong link*

u/_akrom · 8 pointsr/hardwareswap

Heads up man, this is super high for what you have. You can buy 16gb 3000 speed for $58 on Amazon

u/toastman42 · 8 pointsr/VRGaming

Yeah, it can be a little overwhelming to figure out where to start. Some good answers already in this thread. The good news is it's actually a lot more straight-forward than it appears. The main source of confusion/apparent complexity comes from the fact that right now both the prior gen and new gen models are still on the market, making it appear that there are a ton of headsets. In reality, there are only four that matter:

Oculus Quest: VR for people that don't have or don't want to buy a decent gaming PC. Cordless, entirely self-contained, no PC needed, no external sensors needed, but limited by the mobile hardware specs. MSRP: $399 USD

Oculus Rift S: really the go-to for a first-time VR headset. Great display that solves most of the clarity issues of older headsets, great controllers, uses inside-out tracking like the Quest (i.e. no external sensors to setup), and pretty reasonable PC hardware spec requirements to run it. So quick and easy to setup that once I finished downloading the software installer, I was up and playing VR in only about 10 minutes. The relatively tiny sound is the only real commonplace complaint, but it does have a headphone jack on the headset. $399 USD

The Valve Index: currently the super high-end of VR gaming. Higher resolution display than the Rift S, higher refresh rate, fancy finger-tracking controllers. Also getting some flack for some quality control issues on its thumbsticks. The only one of the new gen VR headsets to still require external sensors and a base station, which are pretty big negatives for VR newbies since that complicates setup and calibration. Due to the higher specs, it also needs a super high-end PC to really get the most out of it. $999 USD for the starter kit, which does include everything you need to get started, although many users recommend purchasing a third lighthouse sensor (the kit comes with two).

The HTC Cosmos: HTC's replacement for the Vive. Not out yet, so exact specs, pricing, and release date are still unknown. However, it has been confirmed that it will use inside-out tracking (so no external sensors to mess with), and cost less than $1000. The latest unofficial rumors are that it is expected to launch this September, and it's expected to have both specs and pricing somewhere between the Rift S and the Index. Worth keeping an eye on.

What not to bother with:
The Vive. Vive was the premium VR headset of its era, so it's not that there is anything wrong with it per se, it's just outdated and obsolete tech. The display and controllers are just inferior to all of the newer kits.

Windows Mixed Reality (WMR): this one is probably responsible for the VR market looking crowded, since this is a standard defined by MS and not a specific headset, and lots of different manufacturers make or have made WMR headsets. So when you see PC VR headsets from Lenovo, HP, Asus, Acer, Dell, Samsung, etc, they are all just competing WMR headsets. The head strap and display vary in quality, but they all use the same controllers, which are generally considered to be inferior to Vive, Oculus, and Index controllers. The main appeal originally of WMR was to make VR cheaper and easier to get into since WMR has the least expensive headset options, and it was the first to use inside-out tracking so no external sensors. However, its inside-out tracking is done with only two forward-facing cameras, so the tracking is significantly inferior to Quest (four onboard cameras) or Rift S (five onboard cameras) inside-out tracking.

As for specs, your graphics card meets the min, but is at the very low-end of the min. You should be able to run older or less demanding VR games just fine, but may have to run newer or visually more sophisticated VR games at low graphics settings to maintain stable framerate. I would expect Beatsaber to run fine.

One last note: VR headsets, the Rift S in particular, can be pretty picky about your USB 3.0 ports. Specifically, ASMedia USB controllers that many motherboards use tend to cause lots of problems with Oculus headsets. This Inatek add-in USB 3.0 controller has solved lots of people's VR headset issues, is officially suggested by Oculus tech support, and is pretty inexpensive at only around $23. If you decide to pick up a VR headset, might be wise to proactively check your USB 3.0 controller and if it's ASMedia just go ahead and order the Intek USB 3.0 controller along with the headset.

u/jjmiller1980 · 8 pointsr/java

This is the type of stuff that Raspberry Pi was invented for. It's a low cost, small (credit card sized) PC that runs a distribution of Linux. Something like that is perfect if you're learning Java and don't already have a PC.

You can get a starter kit with the Pi, case, SD card, and power supply for like $70 on Amazon:

Only other thing you'd need is monitor, mouse & keyboard. I have a few of these, they're pretty good, and would be more than enough for learning on.

u/TheGreatMuffin · 8 pointsr/Bitcoin

The guide is for a Raspberry Pi, which you can connect to from a windows machine, yes.

u/Nubbl3s · 8 pointsr/headphones

Did you ever plug it into one of those USB adapters? I've noticed a massive sound quality increase when using one with my Omni MM4. I didn't expect it since I have a decent motherboard and it's such a cheap piece of equipment, but it worked.

u/trustinbacon · 8 pointsr/Overwatch

No1 selling adapter on Amazon. #2 is the metal cased version for a little more.

u/poompt · 8 pointsr/lifehacks

If you're still interested I did a project once that used all the hardware and software this would require and I could give you some pointers.

e: I used a raspberry pi and one of these rather than what he used. One advantage of doing it this way is you could do internet control so you can have a button on your smartphone instead of a combo.

e2: you'd also need a sound card for sound input on the pi to do combo input. I also used a rc filter for noise reduction/DC isolation, and a mechanical relay to hang up the phone.

u/anees12579 · 8 pointsr/SSBM

Anyone got any interesting setups/tv's? Idk why i'm writing this but here are the things I bring to tourneys.

Album link

My Tv Is by far the most eye catching thing. I bought 350 Fortune cookies and have been just taping them on there whenever I finish one. I am pretty much out of them so I have quite a bit all over the TV. The air fresheners were to bring some nice smells to any tournament I went to.

Standard Gamecube: 1.02 melee with newest 20xx TE and vanilla melee memory cards. This is the video cable IOnebring. It has s video + regular composite so I don't have to bring a powered splitter. Explaining more below.

Recording/Streaming setup: This consists of a Webcam which also records player/crowd audio (also a 16 ft extension). An Elgato with 16ft extension. Then I have 2 non-powered composite splitters. I plug in the composite video from the game cube directly into my TV and the S video into the elgato. The result isn't actually too bad (if someone knows how to deinterlace for better video hmu).

The last thing is My Controller: Someone on etsy painted it for me right before big house and so far it's a great purchase. It is of a Palestinian flag and has my tag on it. it doesn't feel any different from any other game cube controller which is great.

Edit: forgot about my headphone setup. I have sennheiser Momentums I bring with my headphone amp and plug that into the tv's audio with one of These. This has a pass through meaning other people can listen through the TV and I can adjust the volume with my amp. I also bring another headphone splitter so people can listen with their headphones.

u/bombermanSD · 8 pointsr/Amd

I've been running this RAM at 3200MHz, stable, since 1.2 actually. Been using A-XMP Profile 2. Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3200MHz

The RAM version is 5.39.

I haven't tried the latest 1.4 BIOS yet, but I'll do so tonight. [Edit: Updated to 1.4 and I'm still stable at 3200MHz]

u/theRailisGone · 8 pointsr/gadgets

In case anyone is considering this, if you know absolutely nothing about computers and want a little something to get your small child interested in technology, this can work as long as you have the cash to spare. However, it is a huge rip off otherwise. If you have any competence with computers, just get a Raspberry Pi 3 kit and plug it into your HDMI capable TV. It'll cost you a fraction of the price and have much more ability to grow with the child.

u/Reddituser703 · 8 pointsr/oculus

>I've had frequent struggles with USB bandwidth and various cables, and then a sensor flat-out died on me. I'd blamed my USB extenders for so long that I troubleshot the sensor for WEEKS before finally resorting to RMA'ing the sensor, at which point I found the replacement sensor I was sent worked perfectly, and I had just wasted a ton of time troubleshooting a sensor.

Are you plugging all 3 sensors onto your motherboard? You're probably hitting USB bandwidth limits for your USB controller; you probably need a PCIe to USB card. I use this one:

u/ypeelS · 8 pointsr/nvidia
u/SanjStreet · 8 pointsr/buildapcsalesuk

There's currently 3 on Amazon Warehouse too, £183 with free prime shipping.

u/Atari_Historian · 8 pointsr/oculus

"If this card is not available to you, use another PCI-E USB 3.0 Expansion Card that uses the Fresco Logic FL1100EX chipset." Source:

I got the 4-port one, I believe because the 5-port was out-of-stock. After plugging in the power connector to the card, no problems, so I can vouch for this one.

u/piccolo_balcanico · 8 pointsr/buildapc

Here is a thing that a lot of people seem to be missing out. Your CPU doesn't support higher speed RAM sticks. It supports dual channel at 2667MHz MAX. So you need a CPU that can support higher speed, because AMD LOOOOOOOOOVES RAM. Your motherboard supports up to 3200 MHz OC. The second thing is that you need two exactly matching sticks in order to get the most of your dual channel.

So my suggestion if you are on a budget (because everything else you have seems good) is to do this:

  1. Change your CPU to a Ryzen 5 2600 (or 2600X) - there are a lot of great deals right now ( ). This CPU supports up to 3000MHz dual channel RAM and has better processing power than the one you have.
  2. Buy the exact same 8GB or 16GB RAM stick you already have - make sure they are exactly the same. Even though 32GB is going to be overkill at least you will get the most of your dual channel. IF you can't find anything then get a 2x8GB or 2x16GB kit @ 3000MHz.
  3. Sell the CPU and the left-over ram stick to get some money back.

    N.B. Do not add the extra RAM into your matching kit on the board. You will jeopardise dual channel.

    Good luck and don't forget to update your drivers
u/Flying_Spaghetti_ · 8 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You really need a better power supply. Drop the Hyper 212 EVO and get this PSU instead. Most budget builds stick with the stock heatsink anyway. I would not put a $10 PSU in anything, you risk frying every component of the build.

u/blitzzo · 7 pointsr/buildapcsales

I just replaced this card last night after it died on me after 2 months, I'm using this one now by tp-link:

It's working very well so far. My wifi situation is challenging due to that the direct line of sight to the router has 4 walls, 2 of them being brick, but so far this is the best wifi adapter i've used.

I haven't seen it drop below 450mbps and my old linksys AC usb adapter never got that high, it would spike up to 300mbps or so every now and then but only for a second or two then drop back down. I ran a ping -t for an hour and had 0% packet loss.

u/PriceKnight · 7 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

Price History

  • AMD Ryzen 5 2600 Processor with Wraith Stealth Cooler YD2600BBAFBOX   ^PureLink
    ReviewMeta: ★★★★✮ 4.7/5 from 597 valid reviews
    CamelCamelCamel - [Info]Keepa - [Info]

    Don't Rook too long, these prices might not last.
    ^(Info) ^| ^(Developer) ^| ^(Inquiries) ^| ^(Support Me!) ^| **[^(Report Bug)](/message/compose?to=The_White_Light&subject=Bug+Report&message=%2Fr%2Fbapcsalescanada%2Fcomments%2Fe3ph9e%2Fcpu_amd_ryzen_5_260015499%2Ff94b98q%2F%0D%0A%0D%0A
u/tielknight · 7 pointsr/buildapcsales

Heads Up, Amazon matched it again ;

Might want to keep a eye on the Walmart listing as they usually drop theirs down a couple more dollars after their system notices Amazon matched it.

u/Launchers · 7 pointsr/buildapcsales

Amazon price matched that Walmart deal so if anyone missed it, check it out! Also it's available on primenow meaning you can get it tomorrow!

edit: Amazon and Walmart are huge and it's good seeing walmart fight Amazon. In the end we all win.

u/pattheaux · 7 pointsr/raspberry_pi

The audio output on the Pi is super low quality, you will hear a lot of noise from your stereo. A cheap USB sound adapter will make a big difference. This one worked for me

u/Zencyde · 7 pointsr/Steam

I wouldn't recommend getting USB or surround sound headphones. They come in two types and both are mediocre as well as limiting. You have your headphones with multiple drivers, which reviews will time and time again say are off. Multiple smaller drivers in a circumaural headset next to year ear? Diminished sound quality as well as limited directional accuracy. The other option is to get a set that use virtual surround, but these are going to be USB only. My experienec with USB headphones tells me this is not worth it. Needing to install drivers, potential voltage dropouts from USB charge not being stable, popping (that shit HURTS and is what caused me to throw out my last USB headset), as well as not being able to plug it into more devices. The 3.5 millimeter standard is MUCH better to have here for its versatility and simplicity. If you would like USB, as another user suggested a functional reason for it (though the same could be achieved by using the front audio ports because most computers will still distinguish between headphones and speakers if you use the front ports), they do sell cheap USB adapters that often have their own virtual surround drivers. I'd recommend this over a dedicated USB headset. The lack of versatility and problems associated are worth keeping your setup modular. If you would like to have virtual surround but your soundcard/motherboard doesn't have driver support for it, then I really suggest grabbing the Razer Surround drivers for free.

Okay, wall of text is over! What SHOULD you buy? That's a crazy question. If you're looking for a headset (headphone+microphone), I'm personally a fan of the Logitech G230 which is one of the better price/performance options out there. They are not the highest quality headphones but they are sturdy (important!) and comfortable (double important!). The sound quality coming through them is more than passable. Sometimes I forget I'm not listening to speakers, even though I've been using them exclusively for months. The mic quality is mediocre and requires some boosting, so that should be known.

If you're just looking for headphones without a microphone, this is NOT the place to be asking that question. Audiophiles know headphone gear much better than gamers do, but generally don't know anything about headsets because the low-quality mics headsets use aren't of much use to audiophiles.

If you got through all that, congratulations and I hope it helps you! Just make sure to check reviews on various sites (or just Amazon, if you're lazy like me) and don't pick up anything with less than a 4/5 rating. Good luck!

u/BeBenNova · 7 pointsr/Games

Get yourself this kit

and put Retropie on it

I had plans to buy the Mini NES for my dad's birthday but when i showed him the list he was bummed at how many games we used to own that wasn't on there so it made me look for an alternative, this is probably one of the best decisions i've ever made, this thing kicks ass the only thing it fails to run well that i've tested so far is N64 where there are stuttering issues and awful fps drops but for anything pre-N64 it works like a charm

Scroll at the bottom to see a list of supported systems

u/BigBlackPenis · 7 pointsr/buildapcsales

Oh, shit, I was just looking at this on Amazon.

Anyway, I'm hesitant since I'm looking for a GPU brace that can be used for a PC that's going to be lugged around as well. Been searching for months, and found these options:

mnpctech I'm liking this the most because it's made of metal, has more options, but it's also the most expensive.

Puget Systems
Probably the first GPU brace on the market. I remember it used to have 4+ star reviews but now it's dropped.

Atlas This is new, and I'm liking it the second most.

MSI Another new option I've never seen. I like how the pole braces against the top and bottom of your PC case, but I can't stand the MSI Gaming logo even though I have an MSI 480.

u/toonerz · 7 pointsr/buildapcsales

Looks like Amazon just matched Walmart's price for those who prefer to order there:

u/fourdots · 7 pointsr/buildapc

If one of the PCIe slots is vacant you could get a PCIe card that would add both; this one seems to get good reviews and supports all of the technologies that you'd expect it to, but there might be something better.

I'd go with an internal expansion card over USB, both because it will reduce clutter slightly and because USB wireless cards, in my experience, tend to not be the best.

u/Dyrn · 7 pointsr/roosterteeth

What would you like to know about the tech side? I occasionally make videos and have learned a lot about editing and the best tools for the trade and I also know most of what the AH guys use. For example:

  • They use apple iMacs for their stations

  • They also use Mac Pros for storage of video (mostly the old models but some have the new ones)

  • Editing as far as I can tell is done with Final Cut Pro X

    -Not Final Cut Pro X it is Final Cut Pro 7 and occasionally when using a PC to edit they use Adobe Premiere Pro CS6/CC

  • Recording video is done with the blackmagic capture cards Also I think Ray occasionally uses an El Gato capture card

  • Recording audio is done with Audio-Technica AT2050 microphones

    So there are the tools they use but how the setup works is more elaborate so I will give a set by step instruction of what they do for a Let's Play.

    1.) They get the mics out and get them all connected to a single computer that is connected to the tv/monitor set up between Jack and Geoff's desks as seen in this photo

    2.)To record their audio and have it all synced together they use Audacity which is what is displayed on the tv/monitor discussed in the first step.

    3.) They get whatever video game they are playing turned on and also have their capturing devices started capturing (capture card info and setup here)

    4.) After all recording and capturing is on and working they sync their audio to their video by doing something simple like saying up while they are on the main menu of there game and going up on the menu.

    5.) Once all these steps are done they can begin recording the Let's Play.

    6.) After recording the Let's Play they save all the audio and export it to whoever's computer is going to be editing the video. The video however is first stamped with their name (lets say for minecraft) on the top left of their video and then exported.

    7.) The video being exported is then sent like the audio to whoever's computer will be doing the editing.

    (I'm a bit hazy on how they do a few things from here but I will attempt to give an accurate depiction of how it's done.)

    8.) From here it can vary depending on what the Let's Play is but for the sake of this lets say it's a Minecraft Let's Play. So all of the video has now been sent to Gavin (or Lindsay!) and they put the audio from the Let's Play into the video by using Final Cut Pro 7/Adobe Premiere Pro and the gameplay audio is also adjusted along with whatever audio issues there might be in the recorded audio.

    9.) I don't know exactly what Gavin/Lindsay/Whoever uses to swap screens but it is a program that allows them to watch all of the video at once and click which screen will be the visible one at that point of the video. (You could do this without the program but it would take a lot longer.)

    10.) After that they will trim the video up by deleting slower segments of the video where not a lot of interesting things happen (another long process). Once the editor believes it's good they will rematch the video for any errors and if they think its good they put the opening and ending banners (logo video parts at the beginning and ending of the videos) and export it one last time.

    11.) They will then upload the video to YouTube and either set a scheduled time for it to come out or if its late have it come out immediately then.

    12.) They start the process over again for the next Let's Play!

    Okay so after typing that all out I want to make it clear I do not work for them so their way of making and editing the video might be a little different but what I have written is pretty accurate to how they make a Let's Play.

    Here is a difference for other videos (achievement guides, This Is... , Easter Eggs, HUNT, Fails of the Weak, etc.) as well:

  • They do NOT record the audio at the same time as the video. What they do is record the video edit it in Final Cut Pro X and then record themselves (and usually someone with them) while they watch the finished edited video and discuss whatever they need to about the video.

  • After recording the audio it's a quick edit to add it to the finished video and export and upload it to YouTube.

  • In these other videos they usually make more abrupt and noticeable cuts compared to Let's Plays.

    ...That's just to name a few differences!

    If anyone has any questions I will try to answer them! Also if I made a mistake let me know and I will fix it!

u/Sand_Coffin · 7 pointsr/buildapcsales

I got these for $73 in October 2015 NOT on sale. I didn't know how to look for computer part sales then, so I just got them because I wanted an upgrade from my 6GB of RAM I had before that.

Then when I made my new build, I got these for $80 this past Black Friday.

u/xxxDredgexxx · 7 pointsr/buildapcsales

I bought one of the Atlas Brackets several months back, just peace of mind. As I despise case windows and RGB in general it's purely for support.

u/shaxsy · 7 pointsr/Amd

Looks like I am going to go with the following:

u/cybereality · 7 pointsr/oculus

I'd recommend this card, which is confirmed to be compatible.

u/iMalinowski · 7 pointsr/archlinux

I know it's not that helpful. But I struggled with sound out of the laptop's headphone jack for a couple months. I eventually broke down and just bought a small USB DAC and that fixed it right up and even sounded better than Window's did.

Something like this: Sabrent USB DAC [Amazon]

u/Frogblaster77 · 7 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

GUYS!!!!!! IT'S HERE!!


For anyone interested, I bought this.

u/paulatreides0 · 7 pointsr/neoliberal

/u/JetJaguar124 /u/Integralds

So first thing's first, Windows: ~$130 for Home Edition.

Okay, so things to keep in mind:

  1. If you go Intel, overclocking isn't too great on 9th gen intel, especially if you don't have a beefy aftermarket cpu cooler. So if you don't plan on doing that at some point then you don't need a K series CPU and an overclocking motherboard. So your motherboard should primarily focus on giving you decent I/O options.

  2. You also probably want to aim for 1080p or 1440p tops, given your price range.

  3. Related to #1: If you don't plan on overclocking then a basic-ish mobo will do fine, and you mainly want to focus on I/O and other features. If you are getting Intel doubly so, as, as I mentioned before, intel 9th gen doesn't overclock well due to relatively low headroom to begin with. For intel overclocking boards are "Z" while non-overclocking boards are "B". For AMD they are "X" and "B" respectively.

    The GPU you should be seeking to use is the 1660 Ti, which is basically a slightly gimped RTX 2060 but without the raytracing stuff. If you are willing to spend a bit more then you could get an RX 5700 instead, which is nearly ~30% faster on average.

    That'll put you at $270 - $360 depending on the model you pick. Yes, it's a third of your budget, but the GPU is the single most important part of your build.

    Secondly you'll want a decent CPU to go with that.

    The Ryzen 5 3600 looks like a pretty good CPU, its a bit under $200, its fairly beefy and extendable so it's somewhat "future-proof" - in that it shouldn't cause much bottlenecking and you could upgrade your GPU past a 2080 Ti before needing to change the processor.

    This MSI Tomohawk Mobo looks good for the 3600.

    So we're at ~$320 for that, or about $640 total. Plus windows that is ~$730.

    The RAM Inty recommended before should be fine. You only really need 16 GB. This will set you back ~$80. If you find yourself wanting more RAM later down the line you can always add another pair of sticks later and double up your RAM.

    That puts us at around ~$800.

    $80 for a 750W Fully Modular Corsair PSU is basically a steal. It's refurbished though, although that shouldn't be a problem - especially with a PSU.

    We're at ~$880.

    Some good thermal paste for your CPU.

    We're now at ~$890.

    Storage depends on what you want to do. Do you install a lot of stuff and files at once? In which case you might want to get a nice sized SSD plus a big HDD.

    For your system drive. Plenty of space, good price, AND its an nvme SSD.

    That makes for ~$990.

    If you need lots of extra space

    If you need extreme extra space

    Keyboard and case are up to you, decide as you please. For the case just make sure that it can support an ATX mobo, as the mobo listed here is full ATX. Mechanical keyboards are crack, but they tend to be more expensive so they're probably out of range. This will be another $100 to $150 depending on what you pick.

    Something to keep in mind though: Your case and your monitors are basically "future proof". In other words, they won't really get "worse" with time or cause future performance issues. So monitors and case are things where you want to consider what you'll eventually want and buy ahead, even if you have to stretch a bit.

    This just leaves your monitor. I would NOT recommend a 1080p monitor above 24 in. Honestly, if you can go for a 1440p monitor then do it. I'm a bit of a resolution whore tho, so if 1080p works for you then that's fine. I would also avoid TN panels - they tend to look more washed out, tinny, and have worse viewing angles . . . although they also tend to be a fair bit cheaper than the good panels (namely IPS panels).

    I used to own one of these . . . it was vvy vvy gud. This is a relatively artsy monitor, so if color gamut correctness or whatever is important for you for photo or video editing or whatever, then this is a good pick. It's a bit expensive, yeah, but also super gorgeous. It also goes up to 75 Hz. Conversely, get a freesync monitor, and this one is probably good - haven't done much research on it, but Dells are generally pretty good in my experience (my current 4K monitor is a Dell too). Freesync will allow you to basically eliminate screen tearing and will provide a smoother feeling experience because it will even out frame rates better.

    One last thing to keep in mind: Shopping around on ebay and other sites can save you a fair bit. My rule of thumb is to never, ever buy sensitive parts like hard-drives, cpus, or motherboards second hand or refurbished. But everything else is fair game. So refurbished GPUs, Monitors, PSUs, Cases, etc. should be fine. Pre-owned? Ehhh . . . that I'm much, much more sketchy on - personally I wouldn't, but that's just me.

    So in total it'd be somewhere in the range of $1500 including monitor, OS, case, and keyboard. The system itself is around $1000. But you can perhaps knock off a hundred bucks or two by shopping around and looking for where you can buy these parts cheaper than Amazon.

    But again: investing in a good monitor and case can be worth it. It means you won't have to replace it if/when you do upgrade. And worst case scenario you can offload your monitor as a side/secondary monitor when you upgrade your monitor to a new one.
u/Ellargo333 · 7 pointsr/buildapcsales
u/TheThunderclees · 7 pointsr/buildapcsales

lowest price for the past 120 days; not that great if comparing to year or two ago (but all memory went up due to the shortages).

Amazon has this same model for the same price if you prefer Amazon over Newegg.

u/Grey406 · 7 pointsr/oculus

As Oculus Support pointed out, it might be a bandwidth issue trying to run all 3 sensors from your motherboard.

Pick up one of these and you'll be able to plug in 2 sensors + headset into it, then have the third sensor connected to one of the Motherboard USB ports. General rule of thumb is no more than 2 sensors per USB controller as they require a ton of bandwidth.

If you dont mind spending a little more, this card has 4 USB controllers, 1 for each port allowing you to plug in 3x sensors + Headset or 4x sensors

u/Heaney555 · 7 pointsr/Games

No, you need 1x USB 3.0 port for the headset and 3x USB 2.0 or above ports for the 3 sensors.

You can add 4x USB 3.0 ports to your computer for $24 (remember, Rift+Touch+3rdSensor is $142 cheaper than HTC Vive, so even if you need this it's still all $118 cheaper).

u/Oen386 · 7 pointsr/RetroPie

I'm not saying to give up. Buy this:

You get a larger SD card, the best Raspberry Pi on the market. It takes maybe 3 minutes to assemble. Comes with a USB microSD card reader so you can load RetroPie. The only thing missing would be a controller or keyboard.

u/plagues138 · 7 pointsr/gamingpc

If youre really worried, This is fairly cheap, and looks good.

u/bluewolf37 · 7 pointsr/Amd

The 1600 is $154 on Amazon and Newegg. It's a hell of a deal imo.

u/Reconcilliation · 7 pointsr/Amd

Okay well I did the math anyways;

1600x scores ~1368 in multithreading and costs 231 euros. Which give it a score of 5.9 from your chart.

The 1600 gets ~1258 in mulithreading and costs 199 euros, getting a score of 6.32.

This was done assuming prices include VAT, but if they don't and you need to add 19% on top, you still get 5.31 for the 1600 and 4.98 for the 1600x putting them both above 1700 anyways.

u/callcifer · 7 pointsr/linux_gaming

You are being downvoted because this sub hates Nvidia, but this is a good recommendation. 1050Ti is $186 on Amazon but the RX580 is $250.

/u/tony_montana83 personally I'd go with the 1050Ti or even a 1060 if you are willing to pay around $250.

u/Fakename998 · 7 pointsr/oculus
u/shimmeringball · 7 pointsr/buildapc

Don't be fooled, this is merely an Intel 8260 wifi card I believe but branded Gigabyte

u/FwiffoTheBrave · 6 pointsr/Stellaris

>Mhz really doesn't matter at all
>CAS latency

How does that even fit into the same message? You're completely wrong.

TL;DR. No, the RAM clock means a lot. Detailed explanation with examples and math below.

Your comparison to cars is also completely off the mark. To even bring it to something remotely correct, you have to account for the different cars, where slower RAM is an industrial truck running in higher gear, whereas the faster RAM is a sports supercar running 1 gear below the truck, so a truck in 4th gear with medium RPM against a supercar in 3rd gear with high RPM, going in a straight line on a completely flat asphalt road. Want to take a guess which one would win?

I'll even ignore the fact that higher-clocked RAM often has same CAS latency than lower-clocked RAM for the sake of argument.

So here's an explanation of how Mhz and CAS latency really work, which illustrates this point. First off, CAS latency is literally measured in memory cycles, which are measured in Mhz. I'll operate with nanoseconds in my calculations, so Mhz will be translated to Ghz (1Ghz is 10\^9 hz, while 1ns=10\^-9 sec) for easier-to-read numbers.

Say you have a typical 3200Mhz RAM stick (16gb, 75$) with 16 CAS latency. Keeping in mind that the bandwidth for memory commands operate at half the spec clock, we come to 3200Mhz for data transfer, but only 1600Mhz (1600 million per second, or 1.6 billion) for memory commands. Time for one full cycle is thus 1/1600000000 = 0.625ns. Then we multiply that value by the CAS latency number to translate cycles from latency to seconds: 0.625 * 16 = 10ns. This is the real latency of such a stick.

For comparison, let's take this G.Skill memory set (16gb, 70$ - I couldn't find faster) with 2666Mhz and 15 CAS latency. Doing the same procedure, we get 1.333Ghz clock for command interface, full cycle time of 1/1333000000 = 0.750ns, and finally the real latency of 0.750 * 15 = 11.25ns.

If you take RAM with even higher clocks, the difference will be even bigger, for instance RAM with 3600Mhz and 19 CAS latency (10.6ns) would still be faster than 2666Mhz 15 CAS one (11.25ns).

Not only is the first set clocked higher, which brings additional advantages with certain CPU models, especially Ryzen, it also has lower actual latency despite having higher CAS latency. It is literally better in every single aspect that concerns performance. To match that at all, the slower 2666Mhz stick would need 13 CAS latency (that would bring it to 9.75ns), and I couldn't find memory like that. Or in reverse, to make the higher-clocked memory run as slow as the lower-clocked one, you would need 17 CAS latency (would bring it to 11.33ns), which would make the real latency only marginally bigger (we're talking about fractions of a nanosecond here) while having significantly higher throughput, so it would still be faster overall.

So yeah, I would say Mhz of the RAM means a whole lot, while it is actually hard to find higher-clocked RAM with CAS latency bad enough to make it slower than lower-clocked RAM.

u/SubBassKidd · 6 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/zonedguy · 6 pointsr/DataHoarder

You can definitely stick with the Fractal series. I did because I couldn't have a loud, unsightly machine setup anywhere in my home. I have my main system w/ 10 Drives + 2 SSDs + 3 NVME drives in an R6. That has a DAS connected with 19 drives inside an R5; 8 stock bays + 3 in 2x5.25 bay adapter + extra 3 drive cage + extra 5 drive cage.

As you are in Europe, you might not even have to pay crazy shipping charges to buy spare drive cages from In the US I had to source the extra drive cages from r/hardwareswap but that proved to be easier than I expected. Here is a pic I took before I added the 2nd 5-bay drive cage:

Edit: Request for more info...

I have not done a build log as I am not yet "finished" with the build, but it looks like there is sufficient demand for parts info so here it goes:

I have an R6 for my main NAS server loaded with the motherboard, 10 3.5 drives and one SSD. The R5 has two extra drive cages (3 + 5) as well a 2x5.25-to-3x3.5 bay adapter.

The expansion cards I use are:

  • 1x LSI 9210-8i with SAS to SATA cables for 8 of the 10 internal drives in the R6. The other 2 + SSD use SATA ports on the motherboard.

  • 1x LSI-9207-8e connected via 8088 cables to two HP SAS expanders powered in the R6 by riser cards which connect to the drives with the same SAS to SATA cables as above.

    Additional parts I used:

  • An SFX PSU is important so you can fix the extra drive cages. Don't skimp on this one. You don't need a ton of Watts (I'm using a 600W Gold) but you need quality, you are hooking up thousands of dollars of drives to it!

  • Power splitters: One & Two

  • Power switch to turn on the DAS PSU and reset it any time you need to take the NAS offline (DAS always must be powered on first)
  • Fan controller for powering fans in the DAS

    More inspiration can be found here:
u/420BlazeItKony · 6 pointsr/Beatmatch

Get this on amazon, it costs $8:

usb soundcard

it works with mac/pc, and requires no drivers. It works out of the box and allows a 2nd input. This is the cheapest possible way to add a headphone channel to preview tracks.

Also, get this mixtrack, it costs $88 and works identically:

Numark mixtrack

You are limited by the software, why buy a more expensive controller when you can get last year's for $88? It works just as effectively and the USB soundcard saves you from buying the pro version, which is marked up double compared to the regular mixtrack.

u/intrglctcrevfnk · 6 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Not a fan of the vitrolos case from Amazon. Bought one myself and it had no ventilation. Only box I've ever gotten a high temp indicator.

I'd recommend the canakit stuff off Amazon. If you want it all in one they have a kit that isn't too bad of a value, perhaps a the SD card is a little bit overpriced. But for friends that want to have me make something for them (like a retropie setup or whatever) I just point them to this as it's easier:

CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 Complete Starter Kit - 32 GB Edition

Otherwise you can pick a board, power supply, case, and heatsinks if you want, and if you have an hdmi cable and extra SD card you can get out a little cheaper.

u/ireallylikechikin · 6 pointsr/buildapc

you could get a GPU brace/bracket or put something underneath it to keep it from sagging.

some people use legos or wooden blocks.

u/Lemmss · 6 pointsr/pcmasterrace

PSU is an easy choice for your build, go with an EVGA 500 Watt PSU. It's not overpriced and has more than enough power for you system

PSU here.

GL, and happy gaming!

PS: obligatory " should've gotten an r9 390 "

u/nbmtx · 6 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I use one of these hubs in my ITX build (more for cable management than necessity). It uses SATA power which is handy.

u/remembertosmilebot · 6 pointsr/sffpc

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:


^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

u/nannerb121 · 6 pointsr/buildapcsales

Not sure why they'd throw a 9900K with a 2070... i mean the price isnt God awful... but if you want to save some money I'd go with THIS ONE... quite a bit cheaper and still has a 2070... will fare just fine for the greater majority of things.


Edit: the one thing that I'd be careful with on this one is the RAM that it comes with... seems to come with 2400mhz ram... not sure how much you know about RYZEN but RAM speed matters a lot more for them compared to Intel... If you go for this computer... I'd probably take the ram out and sell it and throw in something like this. The processor will run MUCH better with that ram and youll probably only have to spend about $40-$50 more after you sell the ram that the computer comes with

u/jries · 6 pointsr/letsplay

I highly recommend the Elgato.

u/xaplexus · 6 pointsr/DataHoarder
u/xavierthegreat · 6 pointsr/CableManagement

Good work, your cable management is excellent!

I have a couple of recommendations for you build:

I'd recommend buying a new CPU cooler when you can. The Intel ones are good, but there are so many better ones on the market.

Try this one - I used it in my build for like 3 years. Keeps temps down and fans quiet.

Another thing you may consider is an SSD. You'd be surprised by how cheap they are right now. Here is a 480Gb SSD for only $118 USD.

And as /u/nolo_me said, definitely flip that PSU if it's not too much trouble. Better performance, better sound, better temps.

u/Integralds · 6 pointsr/neoliberal

/u/paulatreides0, /u/jetjaguar124, u/WeAreAwful

This is not my best guide, but it is a guide. Refinements welcome.
I wish I knew where to post the refined version, because it seems wasted
on the ephemeral DT.

PC building notes, 2019 Q3


This post is a a "guide" to PC building in late 2019. It is incomplete
in two senses. First, I make no special claims to authority or objectivity.
I'm just an enthusiast. I have only personally tested a fraction of the parts
listed below. Second, I am writing this before the Intel 10th-gen refresh
and before the release AMD's flagship 3950X. Those new parts may impact some
of the advice given below.

This guide is extremely opinionated. I will simplify and exaggerate to
keep things simple.

This post was written while drinking whisky and listening to


What's inside your PC

A PC has seven core components. They are,

  1. CPU: the central processing unit. The thing that does calculations.
  2. Motherboard: the bit that all the other bits slot into
  3. GPU: the graphics processing unit. For frames in games.
  4. RAM: Random Access Memory. Fast, volatile, short-term storage.
  5. Storage: longer-term storage. Comes in several flavors, mainly solid state
    and hard disk.
  6. PSU: the power supply unit. The bit that delivers power to the other bits.
  7. Case: a steel box that you put the other bits in.

    A word first on compatibility. The skeleton of the build is the motherboard,
    and you have to make sure that every other bit is compatible with your board.
    There are two CPU manufacturers, AMD and Intel; each has their own CPU
    design and thus has their own motherboard type. RAM, storage, PSUs, and GPUs
    are all cross-compatible with either AMD or Intel motherboards.
    Motherboards come in different sizes. A case will be compatible with certain
    size ranges. From small to big, these are ITX, m-ATX, ATX, and
    E-ATX. You'll want to check that your motherboard can fit in your case.


    AMD's most current CPUs are the 3000-series Ryzen chips. There are a bunch
    of them, but the only two you have to care about are the

  • AMD Ryzen 5 3600 ($200)
  • AMD Ryzen 7 3700X ($330)

    The other options are the 3600X, the 3800X, and the 3900X. None of these
    are interesting compared to the two listed above, and can be safely ignored.

    Intel's current CPUs are the 9th-gen Core chips. I would only seriously
    consider two of these chips,

  • Intel i7-9700K ($380)
  • Intel i9-9900K ($450-$500)

    and I'd ignore the rest. If you want to spend less than $350 on a CPU,
    then go AMD. If you want to spend more than $350 on a CPU,
    go Intel.

    A word about prior-gen chips. The AMD 2000 series (2700X, 2600) and the
    Intel 8th gen series (8700K) are still viable at the right price. Look at
    benchmarks. More on that later.

    A word about lower-spec CPUs. AMD sells cheap CPUs that have integrated
    graphics. That means you don't need to buy a graphics card with these chips.
    As such, a build with the 3400G or 3200G can be extremely inexpensive. Consider
    them for office use or basic builds that don't require heavy graphics.
    I have personally tested them and they play 4K video flawlessly; they should
    be perfectly adequate for basic tasks.

    For scientific workloads, ask me to write another post. I can't cover
    everything here.


    Motherboards only accept either AMD or Intel CPUs, but not both, so you must
    choose a board that is compatible with your CPU.
    Once you decide between AMD or Intel, you can proceed to figure out which
    motherboard you want. There are approximately six billion boards. For AMD,
    skip the hassle and just buy the

  • MSI B450 Tomahawk MAX

    Note the "MAX." The Tomahawk was released during the 1000- and 2000-series
    of AMD processors. The MAX variant is compatible with 3000-series chips
    out of the box.

    For Intel, I know far less. Any Z390 board should be acceptable.

    For AMD, the new X570 boards are available as well. They are pricey and
    overkill for 90% of desktop users. Feel free to skip them. Look out for the
    B550 boards that are to be released in 2020Q1.


    There are two main manufacturers of GPUs: AMD and Nvidia. Confusingly, they
    do not sell GPUs themselves, but market them through partners like MSI,
    EVGA, PowerColor, Sapphire, etc.

    The GPU stack is a little confusing.
    That chart lists all of the main GPUs on the market, and if you count, there
    are over 25 GPUs listed. Multiply 25 GPUs by 10 or so board partners,
    multiplied again by the fact that each partner sells multiple types of the same
    GPU, and you have a recipe for an absolute nightmare of a market.
    The prices are only approximate.

    Let me cut through the fog. You should buy one of

  • AMD RX 570 ($130)
  • Nvidia 1660 or AMD RX 590 ($220-$280)
  • AMD RX 5700 XT ($400-$430)
  • Nvidia 2080 Super ($700)
  • Nvidia 2080 Ti ($1200)

    Pick your price point.


    RAM is distinguished by its generation. We are currently on DDR4, with
    DDR5 to come in either 2020 or 2021. This part is easy. Just buy
    16GB of DDR4 3200-speed RAM and be done with it.
    This kit
    will set you back $75 to $85 depending on the day of the week and will perform
    adequately for 99.98% of users.


    In 2019, there is no excuse for not buying fast solid-state storage.
    For 90% of users, you should buy either the 500GB or 1TB variant of the
    Intel 660p and call it a day.
    This reviewer
    is 100% paid off by Intel, but he's also right on this topic. Buy a 660p
    and rest easy.

    For enthusiasts, the 660p uses new, cheap, somewhat fragile QLC NAND technology
    and you might want to go with a Samsung 970 instead.

    That does it for your boot drive. If you need further long-term storage for
    music, movies, videos, games, etc, look into either Seagate or WD's 8TB to
    12TB options.

    I personally have a few WD Gold 12TB drives. They're pricey, but they're
    enterprise-grade and haven't done me wrong yet. My firm, which buys storage
    by the truckload, loves these things. They rarely fail.

    I personally am using a 660p for OS, a second SSD for
    some of my media, and HDDs for long-term storage.


    I have neither the time nor the expertise to get into a deep discussion of
    power supplies. The topic is apparently very complicated. You should buy
    something in the 550W to 750W from a manufacturer like Corsair, EVGA,
    or CoolerMaster. Make sure it has the number of VGA connectors that your GPU


    The case is the place to really personalize your build. Try not to spend
    more than $100, though; at the end of the day, it's just a steel box.


    In some ways, the bits outside the computer are more important than the bits
    inside. After all, these are the bits you interact with on a daily basis.

  • Monitors
  • Keyboard
  • Mouse
  • Headphones or speakers
  • Chair
  • Desk


    Monitors are distinguished by size and resolution.

    The resolutions available are 1080p, 1440p, and 4K. I recommend the following.

  • 24" 1080p for entry-level gaming and for most office work
  • 25" or 27" 1440p
  • 32" or higher 4K

    You may also care about refresh rate; the most common refresh rates are 60Hz
    and 144Hz. These only matter for gaming.

    One particular sweet spot is the "1440p, 27", 144Hz refresh rate" class. Look
    up benchmarks and comparison videos.


    Pick to taste. Some swear by mechanical keyboards. Others buy standalone
    keyboards that mimic the laptop keyboard that they're used to.


    I have used the Logitech G500 and Logitech G403, and both are fine. They're
    somewhat expensive and will run you about $70.


    There are a million ways to fulfill your sound needs. For wired headsets,
    the bone-stock recommendation is the AudioTechnica ATH-M50x.
    For speakers, I can recommend the Klipsch 2+1.

    For more earphone and headphone suggestions, ask me for an extended discussion.

    Chair and desk

    Don't neglect these. You'll be sitting at that chair for several hours per
    day, and you'll use that desk forever. Measure how wide your monitors will be
    and buy a desk accordingly. Go to an office supply shop and sit in a few chairs;
    pick one that you like. Your desk and chair will last forever, so don't be
    afraid to spend a little money here.


    Read Logical Increments in its entirety.

    Watch videos from real, serious hardware reviewers. I recommend
    Gamers Nexus, Paul's Hardware, and Hardware Unboxed. Anyone else is either
    subpar or bought out or provides worthless advice.

    Do research, think for yourself, and ask me questions. I'll either give you
    advice or point you to reliable resources if I think my advice would be lacking.

u/DUSTDENIED · 6 pointsr/Vive

If you continue to have problems you will need to buy a inateck board.

Inateck on amazon

u/Lord0fgames · 6 pointsr/Warthunder

Ever heard of saving your money? $40 is quite a bit and adds up quickly if it's a recurring amount.

For $40 though, it's more of being able to upgrade parts that you might get. an i5-7500 vs an i5-7600k is a $40 difference.

Upgrading from a regular cpu fan to watercooling is <$40.

Although mining has ruined the prices, upgrading from a gtx 1050 to a 1050ti is <$40

8GB of ram is just over $40.

u/chad2448 · 6 pointsr/buildapc

I completely forgot you mentioned the store credit... Go for it! But, Try to get a beefier PSU. Anything around 500-600 watts is decent. You're going to want a certified power supply like this! Most GPU's will labeled their recommended amount of watts to drive the GPU.

u/sinubux · 6 pointsr/mindcrack

You might want to consider getting a USB to 3.5mm converter so you can continue to use your current headphones.

u/Iveness92 · 6 pointsr/buildapcsalesuk

The additional £20 is worth it for 3000MHz those on Ryzen Systems

u/Sleipnoir · 6 pointsr/GirlGamers

For computers you can use OBS for free to record games. If you're using consoles you sometimes have to buy extra hardware or even mod the console itself. It can be pricy from my understanding, like ~100+ for wiiu, ~300+ vita, etc

This is what my friend has been using to stream his wii u stuff it looks like it can be used for other consoles too

u/BboySparrow · 6 pointsr/buildapcsales

How much better is C14 to C16?

You can get a Corsair Vengeance LPX 3200mhx for $78.

is $42 worth it for tighter timings?

u/MountCydonia · 6 pointsr/buildapcsalesuk

Not really worth it considering the 3200 MHz kit is less than £5 more expensive.

u/PCLurking · 6 pointsr/buildapc

Remember that Ryzen loves faster Ram. For a few bucks more you can get the 3200 speed kit.

Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3200MHz C16 Desktop Memory Kit - Black (CMK16GX4M2B3200C16)

u/Forbidden76 · 6 pointsr/oculus

You need a usb hub my man. Not enough power on your mobo usb. Look on amazon. Here it is.

Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card - Interface USB 3.0 4-Port Express Card Desktop with 15 Pin SATA Power Connector, [ Include with A 4pin to 2x15pin Cable + A 15pin to 2x 15pin SATA Y-Cable ] (KT4001)

u/wellzor · 6 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Only markings I can see are "THLVL" and it should be this thing:

u/Dagger32304 · 6 pointsr/buildapc

Why not go with a GTX 1050ti? You could get one cheaper, they're newer, faster in almost every way, and don't require external power connectors.

Here's one from EVGA for $150

u/Imma-little-kali · 6 pointsr/chile

A diferencia de todo los otros comentarios de acá, te recomiendo irte por un Ryzen:

  • Son mas económicos que Intel
  • Las placas madres del socket AM4 son mas económicas y tienen soporte de socket hasta el 2020 (Es decir si quieres upgradear tu proce no tienes que volver a comprar una placa madre, al menos hasta el 2020)
  • Le sacan la cresta a Intel en relación "precio/calidad" y "precio/performance" en ambitos de workload relacionadas a creación de contenido (Como AUTOCAD, REVIT, NAVISWORK, etc.)
  • Fuck intel y sus practicas monopólicas.

    ¿Que Ryzen comprar? Depende, en este momento hay varias ofertas porque van a sacar Zen 2 (Que es la arquitectura en la cual se basa Ryzen); por 500 lucas te recomiendo 2 opciones:

  • Ryzen 5 2400G, es una APU, es decir que es un procesador con gráficos integrados, con esta opción puedes ahorrarte la tarjeta de video (Con opción de comprarte una dedicada mas adelante) y ponerle mas lucas a la RAM y un buen SSD.

  • Ryzen 5 2600, lo mejor que puedes conseguir en poder de procesamiento por tus lucas, además que está en oferta. Vas a tener que desembolsar en una Tarjeta de Video eso si, y conformarte con 8GB de RAM y una SSD de 500GB maximo.

    Si te interesa cualquier de esas dos opciones te puedo armar una cotización con todas las partes (Más rato eso si, estoy redditeando trabajando)

u/MrWm · 6 pointsr/buildapcsales

Same amazon link without ref code here

Also, though late, this has been posted already here, but with a different ref code.

u/ahh1258 · 6 pointsr/hardwareswap

Hey, just letting you know that you can currently get a brand new 2600 on amazon for less than your asking price.

AMD Ryzen 5 2600 Processor with Wraith Stealth Cooler - YD2600BBAFBOX

u/radioactive_muffin · 6 pointsr/buildapc

More of a minor troubleshooting, no damage story...but maybe just a little reading.

Back in february...Got all my stuff, spent about $2.1k and got everything I pretty much wanted. 1070, 7700k, 165hz 1440p g-sync monitor (the one on sales right now in fact), m.2 ssd, 2x sata ssd, 2tb hdd, some extra random stuff, rog mb and a full size case. So got the cpu in mb, ram in, graphics card, and m.2. Do a post check, all good. Put in the rest of storage stuff, wanted to see how she handled so installed windows...still good. So I proceeded to put in a couple of the less common things. Alright, slap the side on, time to see how she games. Turn it on...won't even post ._. w.t.f. Open it back up, try reseating everything, turn on, posts but crashes...manage to get to bios. So the crash report said failure of usb 3.1 turned on. wtf does that mean? My motherboard has a front panel 3.1 connection, better start there. Find it in bios, turn it off (not using it anyway, case doesn't have one so f it). restart...can't locate windows, loads to bios. Okay, so now what happened. After about 3 hours of searching, retrying things changing multiple configurations, getting even more crashes due to me having no idea what I'm doing, and looking through my mb manual...found the problem! I knew that disabling the 3.1 would disable some sata ports (5 and 6...while I was only using the first 3). Well turns out it also affected the second m.2 slot (the bottom one on the motherboard, used that because it's further from the cpu, and right in front of my side panel fan). So revert all my settings, disable 3.1, swapped the m.2 drive to the #1 slot, ggwp. It's now 2 am, I have work tomorrow (today), and I haven't had a maiden run of a new comp I just I did the same thing anybody would do...called in sick.

tldr, had to have usb 3.1 turned off so the bottom pcie x 1 would work and prevent the system from crashing. with usb 3.1 disabled, my second m.2 slot (the only one I was using) became had to swap my m.2 drive to the first slot.

Hope all goes well my dude(tte)!

u/cjk813 · 6 pointsr/buildapc

It seems like you're on a pretty tight budget from the comments. This is what I would do.

Used ebay optiplex ($120) - This isn't new tech by any means, but for $120 you're getting a quad core sandy bridge cpu, 8 gb of ram, a 500gb HDD and a Windows license. You can't beat that value.

PSU ($40) - EVGA 500w - Cheap, stable, reliable.

GPU ($105) - XFX RX 460, suitable for most newer games at medium settings at 1080p. If you can spend a little over $300 for your build I'd highly suggest upgrading this to an rx 470.

Overall this system will do what you want for under $300.

u/Teethpasta · 6 pointsr/buildapcsales

Obligatory Intel has a better wifi bluetooth combo card that has better driver support.

u/cpujockey · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace

should have went with this, more ports, and also has 2 controllers on it. MORE POWER!

u/lizcoco · 5 pointsr/battlestations

Hi guys! It's been a couple months since I built my first computer. Did some spring cleaning today and updated the colors and realized that I never updated with my new keyboard, which I believe brings the whole build together. :)


Monitor: Acer XF240H 24.0" 1920x1080 144Hz Monitor
CPU: Intel Core i7-7700k 4.2GHz (Overclocked to [email protected])
Mobo: Gigabyte Aorus GA-Z270X Gaming K5 ATX
Ram: Crucial Ballistix series 16GB DDR4 3000MHz
PSU: Corsair CXM 550w bronze
CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken X62
Storage: 500GB Samsung 850-EVO series SSD and 1TB WD Caviar Blue HDD
Case: Phanteks Entoo Pro M
Keyboard: Tesoro Gram Spectrum Low Profile G11SFL w/red switches
Speakers: Logitech Z200
Mouse: Logitech G403 Prodigy
Headset: Steelseries Arctis 7 Wireless Gaming Headset DTS 7.1 Surround Sound
Fans: 4qty Corsair Air Series AF140mm Quiet Edition, 4qty Corsair ML 140mm (push-pull on the rad mounted on the front)
Flavour: NZXT Hue+ case lights
GPU Brace: Atlas Graphics Card Brace Support

Of course, constructive criticism always welcome! My boyfriend helped me with this first build, and it's definitely lopsided as far as the CPU and GPU goes, but I think of it as a work in process. :)

u/natsw79 · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

It's showing $10.99 shipping when using NCIX Ground. To process the transaction today it would be $57.99 + $10.99 = $68.98. Then a MIR of $30.00. Final price after receiving the MIR will be $38.98.

Amazon has it for $39.99 with free shipping and 2 day shipping for Prime members.

If NCIX had free shipping it may be worth it.

u/adrianmonk · 5 pointsr/audio

Or get a cheap USB DAC for the headphones. Since it's for monitoring purposes only, sound quality wouldn't be a concern, which means you can go cheap. Like $8.50 cheap.

u/eve-dude · 5 pointsr/Eve
u/doctorkrypto · 5 pointsr/Vive
u/landonsworld · 5 pointsr/androidapps

I mean, you could just use a usb speaker adapter too.

u/osfrid · 5 pointsr/buildapc

Well well well, frenchie.


> 1600 isn't available for a month

  • 194€
  • 209€


    > Hyper 212 evo is unavailable

  • 29€
  • 32€


    > It's the same price as the 650 and unavailable as well, lol

  • 85€
  • 94€
u/dito49 · 5 pointsr/buildapc

That motherboard doesn't have a wifi adapter. You'll need to get a separate one like this one or a cheap USB one

u/BstoneArch · 5 pointsr/buildapc

Here is a PCIe card using Intel's AC 7260 card. It includes Bluetooth 4.0 as well so that's a plus. I have the AC 7260 running in my laptop and it's been flawless throughout the past year of continuous use. Right now it's rather expensive on Amazon. It was around $30 a month ago



Price Checker

u/luckykobold · 5 pointsr/answers
u/paco7748 · 5 pointsr/factorio

Either of these:


Any NVME M.2 SSD if you want fast load times

You can megabase to at least 5K SPM with those specs without issue.

u/burnsrbeef · 5 pointsr/hardware

I have an Elgato and I love it.

u/sputn1k · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

Just purchased a different set on Amazon this morning, is this a much better deal?

Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3200MHz C16 Desktop Memory Kit - Black (CMK16GX4M2B3200C16)

u/mdamaged · 5 pointsr/buildapc

Yeah, not something one wants, it can be argued it puts strain on the slot, you could either prop it up with legos (or some other creative way), or get something like this.

u/Logloxan · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

It appears to be available on Amazon now for the same price.

u/MastrWalkrOfSky · 5 pointsr/smashbros
u/ynottry · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

Please note this intel 3160 you linked does Not go into PCI-E on your standard Desktop motherboard. It actually goes into the Mini PCI-E often found on laptop motherboards.

Please don't buy this for a desktop build and expect it to fit!

For a good wireless card that fits in your standard PCI-E slot, checkout the TP-Link ones, they also come in PCI options as well. I purchased the wdn4800, on newegg when it was 25 or so dollars, and have been happy with it. As a note, I have multiple walls in between my Build and the wireless router and have never gone below 3 out of 5 bars (according to win 7) but am most often at 4.

u/hashbuhrowns · 5 pointsr/buildapc

So.. my wireless card in my tower is dual band and I get 300 MB/s.
My wireless router is what gets it to 300 but I know that the card can go higher, should I upgrade my router?
I'd like to know more about wifi and wired connections if you have any links.

u/Anowon_ · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

They are also on Amazon for the same price without the promo code. I assume it goes off sale at the same time.

u/Fenrir-The-Wolf · 5 pointsr/PUBATTLEGROUNDS

16GB of DDR4 does not cost ~60-90$. Especially at 3000mhz.

2x8GB 3000mhz sticks of Corsair Vengance LPX is currently $195, A 525GB SSD is currently $130.

u/Swuftyyy · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace


I use this RAM Corsair CMK16GX4M2B3200C16 Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4 3200 MHz C16 XMP 2.0 High Performance Desktop Memory Kit, Black

and it fits inside a Meshify C Dark TG no problem

u/Please_Wave · 5 pointsr/buildapc


This says it supports 3200(OC) Ram should i not get this board and this ram together?

Im also in the middle of a build and this question has me confused im not as good with specs as i should be. thanks!

u/deathmonkeyz · 5 pointsr/oculus

For the device manager, the two most common are an ASMedia USB controller, or an Intel USB controller. ASMedia basically has a crap load of issues. If you have that, you'll want to buy a PCIe USB 3.0 card ($20 or so) to fix your issues. The Inateck 4 port card works best I've found (do not buy a 5 ports as half the ports are also crap), as long as you don't install their custom drivers and stick to the microsoft defaults.

If you have Intel ports, I'm not sure what the issue would be, and an external card might still solve your problems

u/ArgetlamThorson · 5 pointsr/raspberry_pi

You can make one all inclusive for about $70 or so. It's relatively simple. You'll need the Pi (~$35), a power chord(~$5-10), a microSD card, an HDMI chord, and USB controllers(~$10-15 each). I highly recommend getting a case, although it's not 100% necessary.

Retropie setup guide:

Kit example:

I would make sure and use a power supply specifically made for the Pi, but if you have a spare HDMI chord, microSD adapter, and decent microSD card laying around you can save a few bucks and get a kit without them.

After you set up RetroPie, download the games you want to install (Warning: Nintendo, Sega, etc games are copyrighted, so they're technically illegal to download. Your chances of repercussions for doing so are very low, but I've included fair warning now). Install the downloaded games and enjoy.

u/njoy_ · 5 pointsr/raspberry_pi

CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 Complete Starter Kit - 32 GB Edition

u/Ryan_Mark · 5 pointsr/RetroPie

HDMI Cable, and make sure that SD card is compatible (Needs to be class 10). You should just follow the official guide here. It has a list of hardware.

Or buy this and the controller.

u/Used_Taco · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Gpu sag is normal. Most people don't worry about it. It does bother me, though. Of course mine sags a lot more than that. I use this.

u/drrenhoek · 5 pointsr/oculus

Few useful links to get you started.

Oculus Rift Room Scale Setup Guide

List of recommended cable extensions

I'm using 3 Sensor setup in L configurations with CableCreation CD0034 and Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card. My sensors are mounted about 10 inches and 40 degrees away from the ceiling. Perfect tracking in the play area. Good tracking out of usual play area, when in bed playing seated games in view of only two sensors which are 12 to 15 feet away.

u/Thatisdifficult · 5 pointsr/buildapcforme

Here you go man. With a 1070 and everything. You can also attempt to mix and match your 16GB with it and see if you like it. If you want everything brand new, you're gonna have to up your initial budget by a lot.

PC: $285 Dell Optiplex with i7 3770, 8GB of RAM, 2TB HDD, and Windows 10

GPU: $585 GTX 1070 Mini

SSD: $64 Silicon Power 240GB SSD

PSU: $58 EVGA 600W B1

    • -
      Total: $992 (A little over your old budget of $900 and way under your new budget of $1200.)
u/friendly_neighbour19 · 5 pointsr/Vive

> it dumps me into a gray room

Do you mean:

  1. It dumps you into a grey room (SteamVR start-area) where you still have tracking

  2. Your screen turns grey and you have (obviously) no tracking.

    Anyways this sounds like USB-bandwidth issues. A good long-term solution is to get a PCI USB 3 card. This one is good.
u/minecart123 · 5 pointsr/SBU

In op's defense here are some prices I found online.

Processor ($339.99):

Graphics Card ($550.83):

RAM ($129.99): (EDIT: made a mistake with ram. Previous was DDR3)

PSU ($56.99):

CPU Cooler ($29.99):

SSD ($55.99):

HDD ($45.99):

339.99+550.83+129.99+56.99+29.99+55.99+45.99=$1209.77 (EDIT:Made a mistake with calculation and also want to note these all are found through quick searches and most don't look like top quality products. What op has is probably priced a bit more than all these parts. Also click on the frickin pc part picker on the post.) without case, monitor, and motherboard included. It is quite a steal in my opinion. By the way op are you wiling to sell just your CPU cooler to me? What would you price it at?

u/DirtyBeard443 · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace

AMD Ryzen 5 2600 Processor with Wraith Stealth Cooler - YD2600BBAFBOX
I have the x model. It is amazing. Have mine paired with a 580.

u/XWingLaserbeam · 5 pointsr/GTA

Absolutely. I have an Adobe Creative Cloud membership at a discounted rate through my college, and I'm using Premiere Pro to do the editing.

I'm using an Elgato capture card and a Blue Snowball mic. Maybe it was a bit crazy to go with this particular setup with no experience, but I really like the quality and the result. Links below!

EDIT: I found my Snowball mic at Best Buy for $49.99 -- about $9 cheaper than Amazon.

u/cmango215 · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace


CPU | Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $204.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | ASRock H110M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard | $67.99 @ Amazon
Memory | Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory | $68.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Hitachi Ultrastar A7K3000 2TB 64MB Cache 7200RPM SATA III (6.0Gb/s) | $53.88 @ Amazon
Storage | KingDian 120GB With 128M Cache Internal Solid State Drive|$36.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | PNY GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB Video Card | $249.99 @ Amazon
Case | Cooler Master Elite 130 Mini ITX Tower Case | $42.00 @ Amazon
Power Supply | EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $37.48 @ Amazon
Monitor | LG 25UM58-P 25.0" 75Hz Monitor | $181.81 @ Amazon
Keyboard & Mouse | IXCC-LED Illuminated Water-Resistant Gaming Keyboard | $22.99 @ Amazon
Mouse pad | Spigen Gaming Mouse Pad | $7.99 @ Amazon
| PC Sub Total | $762.31
| Monitor & Peripherals Sub Total | $212.79
| Total Build Cost | $975.10

u/kingWARGASM · 5 pointsr/buildapc

I use this and haven't had any issues. It comes with Bluetooth too.

u/chrassc · 5 pointsr/buildapc

Your cooler is just a fan, get the CM Hyper 212 EVO. Your motherboard is incompatible with the processor, get the MSI H81M-P33. Your harddrive is a slow spinny spinny, get the WD Caviar Blue. Your graphics card/cpu is unbalanced, either downgrade the processor to the Intel i3-4160, or upgrade the graphics card to a GTX 960 or R9 380.

Edit: No aftermarket cooler with the i3-4160.

u/Sheetrockk · 5 pointsr/PS4

usb DAC

something like this:

u/mike559 · 5 pointsr/Cubers

My windows laptop didn't have a dedicated mic input jack (only headphone), so I had to buy this. It works great so far :)

u/jelloBadger · 5 pointsr/SpaceBuckets

You could do this + this. If you've only got 2 fans, then the one you linked + the power supply I linked would work.

u/ConorTheCreator · 5 pointsr/gaming

What are you going to do with your PC? If it's just gaming then an i7 is a bit overkill. I'd recommend the FX 8350 with this build and if you want to overclock, I'd recommend the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO CPU cooler. And you're right, it would be a great gift!

u/csunaye · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales
u/dkirwan83 · 5 pointsr/buildapcforme

i have two of these and they're amazing:

(Gigabyte Bluetooth 4.0/802.11ac WiFi PCIe x1 Card GC-WB867D-I)

u/e-racer · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I know that feel bro, I had a AMD Phenom II x4 965BE that also ran at 125W. After upgrading to a Hyper 212 sound and noise were no longer an issue, (just size was, and I went without my stock case side panel the whole summer, lel)

Here is a $20 cpu cooler
And a comparison to the stock cooler on the fx 8350:

Or if you have $35 you can get the Hyper 212: , its better performance and almost silent for me (its been with my phenom and now its with my intel)

u/johnson-pw · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

Also on amazon for those interested

u/thefeeltrain · 5 pointsr/installation01

Use eBay.

u/Cothilian · 5 pointsr/oculus

I think I'll actually try to answer your questions (instead of just spamming my fanboy agenda).

  1. What matters in regards to USB ports is the total bandwidth available. Some motherboards aren't able to supply enough bandwidth for the Rift and 3 sensors. I wouldn't worry about this issue unless the Oculus software reports "Poor tracking quality" on your sensors. If that happens you might have to buy a PCI-E USB expansion card ($25).

  2. A third sensor will improve tracking quality for room scale and larger play spaces. You can do smaller room scale with 2 sensors, by placing them in opposing corners of your play area. Mount them as high up as possible, pointed toward each other, and angled downward. Your milage may vary depending on the size of your play space, and if you are able to place the sensors optimally.

    Some further notes:

  3. You should be fine starting out with 2 sensors, and expanding to 3 if you notice tracking issues. Note that a 3rd sensor may in some cases require the previously mentioned PCI-E USB expansion card (Link: Oculus recommended card).

  4. Since it's your first time trying VR: Take it easy in the beginning. All the experiences in the Oculus app has a comfort rating. Start with things that are rated "Comfortable", before moving on to Moderate and Intense levels. If you start experiencing nausea or discomfort, exit VR and take a break. Never try to power through the discomfort. And don't worry if VR sickness happens a lot in the beginning. Your VR legs will get stronger.

  5. If you have a beefy computer congratz! Download the Oculus Tray Tool and experiment with super sampling for a sharper visual experience.
u/MoChuang · 5 pointsr/buildmeapc

Just get a USB wifi adapter. Something like this or if you want one thats smaller and less in the way you can get this one. The smaller one probably has less range and lower max speed.

Or if you have extra expansion slots and need faster wifi you can get a PCIe wifi card like this.

NOTE: I haven't done much research on this so the listed products are just examples of the types of solutions available. By no means am I recommending these as the best in their respective classes. I just own TP-link stuff and trust them is all.

u/keplera · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You could buy something like this and add usb 3 to your pc though

u/justmaker · 5 pointsr/kodi

Raspberry Pi 3 is the way to go. You can have both a retro game system, and kodi.

edit: Suggest this kit
CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 Complete Starter Kit - 32 GB Edition

u/glitchvern · 5 pointsr/oculus

960 is min spec.

970 is recommended spec.

CPU should be ok, I used a fx 8350 from last July until a month or so after Ryzen came out. On a Gigabyte 990FX-UD3 actually, I think. There were a couple of different versions of that board and they did change the usb3 controller at one point.

Everything looks good, the only potential problem is the sensors not liking the USB3 ports (the headset isn't that picky), but the sensors will work on the USB2 ports and you can get one of the known working USB3 cards if you want to give your sensors more omph. I got the Inateck one way back at the beginning, but there are more known working ones now.

In Oculus's roomscale extra equipment blog post they listed a few more controllers:

Here are a few USB cards we’ve used with reasonable success:

Four Controllers (One Per Port. Requires placement in x4 or x16 PCI-E slot)

HighPoint RocketU 1144d

Startech SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Card Adapter

Two Controllers (One Per Two Ports)

Startech SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Card Adapter

One Controller (One Across Four Ports)

Inateck Superspeed USB 3.0 Expansion Card

They did put a footnote at the bottom of the blog post, but I think it was more in reference to the hdmi/usb extension cables, which are notoriously finicky.

Footnote is:

**Non-Oculus equipment/service references are not recommendations, guarantees, or endorsements of products or performance. Your results may vary. These are instead options to vary your own customized experiences. Furthermore, incorrect installation or use of any products or items can damage your computer, space, or otherwise impact performance. If you’re not experienced or qualified to do so yourself, please seek assistance.

u/DiabloCanyonOne · 5 pointsr/gadgets

From a technical standpoint, if you read this and understand everything you shouldn't have any problems.

As far as actually putting it together, just buy this and you'll have everything you need except a controller. You can use just about any USB gamepad, including a wired Xbox 360 controller. The trickiest thing about the assembly is probably getting the micro SD card inserted in the USB reader correctly and then in the Pie itself correctly, which isn't very difficulty.

u/IgnorantTurtle · 5 pointsr/raspberry_pi

On/Off Button (2 Pack):

Full “RetroPie” or “Raspbian” starter kit (“CanaKit”):

3.5 Inch Screen (includes the case that I’m currently using):

SNES controllers: I also have N64 Controllers; any type of controller you need, you can find on Amazon

ADDITIONAL ITEMS (found around the house; or stores near me)

Power source: I used a simple phone charger; just attached it to the bottom of the system.

Zip-ties: I used them to bundle up the cables in the back; over all it condenses the whole thing without having to “splice” and reconnect cables.

“Mighty-Putty” (I got the off-brand called “Tack-Putty”): Used to connect the battery pack to the bottom of the device. Originally was going to use Velcro to have the added ability of attaching and detaching the battery pack at will. (But the putty has a really solid seal; no problems so far)

I think that’s it; happy building!

u/CrazyDamon · 5 pointsr/RetroPie

I bought this and took me like an hour between opening the box, putting together, configuring, and adding ROMS.

I also have no comp exp.

u/GiantNinja · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace

they have some brackets for this:


was thinking about getting one, but I'm going to mount vertically instead.

u/Wheels35 · 5 pointsr/oculus

Unfortunately that isn't the 'Oculus' recommended card, but this is.

It is very likely that the chipset on that Rosewill isn't 'properly' compatible

u/Mario_119 · 5 pointsr/cemu

While the $99 Ryzen 3 1200 would get the job done just fine, it could be a bit of a bottleneck if you plan on upgrading your GPU to anything above an RX 580/GTX 1060. For a mere $65 more the Ryzen 5 2600 is a much better choice as far as performance and future proofing go. It would pair quite nicely with any GPU, and won't bottleneck pretty much anything (unless you get something ridiculous like a Titan V, perhaps). As for a motherboard, I've always went with ASUS. The ASUS Prime B350-Plus would be my choice for your price range.

u/bfir3 · 5 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

Thinking about this vs the 2600. I want to upgrade my gfs PC and I wonder if the $55 difference is worth it. She does lots of design work with illustrator/photoshop/indesign and plays lots of games, but she's got a 60hz monitor and isn't bothered by >60fps. Right now she's using an old FX8350 or some fx8000 series amd card and sometimes she's dropping under 30-45fps playing low-medium settings with her 1060 3gb gpu.

What do you guys think?

u/Bletotum · 5 pointsr/oculus


Get this:

It's the Oculus recommended USB expansion. You need dedicated ports, not splicing the bandwidth of 1 into 4 via hub. Cheaper PCI expansions are often not good enough, so get the one I just linked.

Change the link to and it'll still show you the right product.

u/soapinmouth · 5 pointsr/virtualreality

The rift is a very good deal right now, coming in at $200 cheaper for the controller+headset it's hard not to recommend that route until HTC drops their price a bit, but I will give you my observations.

If you have space I recommend the Vive as tracking can get wonky on the Rift in a large space(bigger than 4m diag), and having a large space for VR actually makes VR much more gratifying in my opinion. The Vive is also a bit better for people willing to tinker and upgrade as it is a little more open and available for those sort of things(see tpcast, delux audio strap, aGlass). Initial setup on the Vive is also a bit easier since the two trackers only need power cabled to it, while the rifts cameras require usb cords(no power) running all the way to the computer.

The Rift is definitely more ergonomic, and it breathes better causing less heat and sweating. It's possibly the more cost effective purchase at $200 cheaper, and it has more of that polished just works kind of look and feel to everything. I like to compare it to an Apple vs Android sort of thing, while SteamVR is a little more robust(android), Oculus home feels a bit cleaner and more polished(iOS). Then again, you can always just use SteamVR on the rift natively if you want since it supports both headsets, Oculus home only works with the rift. As far as the just works part, The nice thing with the rift is you just put it on pick up the controllers and you are in, it even has voice commands that work very well to launch the game. There is no on/off button on anything, it all just works and starts automatically when you put it on as long as your computer is on, don't even have to start up oculus home. The Vive has a similar autostart feature, but it is a bit more clunky, requires steam to be running, doesn't always work in my experience, and requires holding a power button on the headset to initialize followed by the power buttons on both controllers.

If you go with the Rift I highly recommend buying a third camera as this will allow tracking basically on par with the Vive outside of large areas and also has the added benefit of having a bit better occlusion resistance than the Vive which is limited to 2. Also be aware of the USB requirements for the rift. You are going to want at least 3 free usb 3.0 ports and one usb 2.0 port. If your pc does not have this, I recommend adding this..

Honestly, even if it does I still recommend one of these as splitting up the usb 3.0 connections between your motherboard and this card helps prevent strain on bandwidth which can lead to tracking issues, and if your pc is capable running everything through usb 3.0 instead of one on 2.0 helps tracking as well.

u/QuadrangularNipples · 5 pointsr/oculus

If you have a desktop, I would think you would have more luck going with the Inateck PCIE card

u/dualactioncomplete · 5 pointsr/oculus

Eh no, you'll need a Usb 3.0 PCI express card.

Just my opinion based on my experience, that's all.

The reason being that your board probably only has a single USB 3.0 controller on it, and that's not enough bandwidth overall, especially if you want to expand to room scale with additional sensors later.

Save yourself a headache, get either:


though price-wise starting out, the Inateck is fine.

u/Modifyinq · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

Is this it? Does it come with the games?

This or the deal on newegg?

There's also this deal.

u/BDPeck5 · 5 pointsr/hardwareswap

I5 price is steep... Ryzen 5 2600 is cheaper and better

u/BandidTwitch · 4 pointsr/buildapc

You could also go with a ryzen 2700x based system like u/rtkierke said and that would give you 2 more cores and 4 more threads, just make sure to get fast ram with ryzen to have the best possible experience. Something like this corsair kit or if you wanna keep with RGB you could get this kit

u/6789JSTANG · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Eh, DDR3 is expensive for what it is, but that's if you buy it new which I wouldn't recommend for this kind of system. An Fx-8350 costs as much as a 2 Gen Ryzan 5 at this point, there really isn't much of a case for building one new. However you can usually find killer deals on second hand sites like Some of the machines will need repairs (most of the time a hard drives/ssd does the trick) but I've always had pretty good luck with them.

u/goodhur · 4 pointsr/nexusplayer

You may need to reboot after plugging the dac in. I only tried the analog audio out on the pcm2704. They are stereo only. This may be handy for projectors since they are USB powered and cheaper than HDMI extractors. Note there is not simultaneous audio output from USB and HDMI.

SYBA external USB Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows, Mac, Linux Extra Audio Source with Microphone SD-CM-UAUD

Phantom YoYo PCM2704 USB Fiber Optic Coaxial Analog Output USB Sound Card Decoding Plate DAC USB Power

Griffin Technology iMic - The original USB Stereo Input and Output Audio Adapter

u/Zonker101 · 4 pointsr/hardware

Believe is basically what you want, connects it to a PWM slot on your motherboard, then it gets from power from a SATA connector. It will then replicate the voltage to the fans on the splitter, and use one of them for the RPM reading

u/Asraphael · 4 pointsr/Amd

I have these
with my Vega 56 + 2700x at 1080p, is their frequency fine or any recommendations for RAM that would suit my build better?

u/Gunmetalz · 4 pointsr/buildapc

Oooh I like this build. I was looking for a wifi-enabled motherboard for cheaper for you. No dice. Consider downgrading the motherboard and using a PCIe or USB wifi adapter.

Your PSU is overpowered. A 500W will do just fine. Consider downgrading this part unless you intend to buy a second GPU and pop those in SLI in the future. That is actually an option for you.

RAM is still overpriced and word is this will continue to about January. Consider buying one stick of 8GB now and a second stick later on if you need the speed. One thing to absolutely note here is that you have 3000MHz RAM in your list, but the board only officially supports 2666. Please be careful with your RAM. I would buy some cheapo RAM, just one stick of 8GB 2666 and another around January when the prices drop. This will move your bottleneck to the RAM... but that should be the case today based on today's prices.

This build is missing storage, do you have your own? That motherboard supports NVMe storage and should probably be filled at some point in it's lifespan to get the most out of that motherboard

Insofar as the case is concerned... it's white. White works well with white parts... but you have other colors there, too. Consider a black case so that the motherboard doesn't stick out like a sore thumb in there with orange heat blocks and lettering. Or find a motherboard with white heatsinks (they exist) and grab some white RAM.

u/NedSc · 4 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Pretty much any generic and cheap USB sound card that has mainline linux support. For example:

u/Matt7hdh · 4 pointsr/SteamOS

If you want to be safe, here is a list of networking stuff that's compatible with Debian. Though I wouldn't worry too much about compatibility issues with wireless cards in steamos. I got this one and it works great even though I don't think it's on the list.

u/Teravicious · 4 pointsr/battlestations

Some additional photos can be found HERE. Full specs are below:

Rig on the right:

  • Cyberpower GXIVR8060A4 Gaming PC - Link
  • i5 7400 CPU 3.0 GHz
  • Asus Prime B250-A Motherboard
  • NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 3GB
  • 120GB SATA SSD
  • 1TB HDD
  • ASUS VG248QE Black 24" Gaming Monitor - Link
  • CRYORIG H7 Cooler - Link
  • Corsair Vengeance LPX 3000MHz 16gb (4 x 4GB) DDR4 (CMK8GX4M2B3000C15) - Link
  • Logitech G413 Gaming Keyboard - Link
  • Furmax Executive Racing Chair - Link
  • BrosTrend 1200Mbps Long Range USB WiFi Adapter - Link
  • Bose Companion 2 Multimedia Speakers - Link
  • Coulax Wireless Qi Charger - Link
  • Dechanic Mini Control Gaming Mouse Pad (red) - Link

    Rig on the left

  • Dell XPS 8700
  • I7 4790 CPU 3.6GHz
  • 16GB DDR3L 1600MHz (4x4GB)
  • NVIDIA GeForce GTX 750Ti 2GB DDR5
  • 2TB HDD
  • Dell 23” Touchscreen IPS LED Monitor (P2314T) - Link
  • Logitech C922x Pro Stream Webcam - Link
  • Bose Companion 2 Multimedia Speakers - Link
  • Auray BAI-2U Broadcast Arm w/Internal Springs and Integrated USB Cable - Link
  • Samson CO1U USB Condenser Microphone - Link
  • Koolertron Universal 50MM Microphone Shock Mount - Link
  • Dragonpad Pop Filter - Link
  • Dechanic Mini Control Gaming Mouse Pad (red) - Link
  • Furmax Executive Racing Chair - Link


  • 1 x LILLTRASK White 98” Countertop - Link
  • 2 x ALEX Drawer/File Unit - Link
  • 1 x GODVIN White Leg - Link
  • Nexlux LED Strip Lights - Link
  • Viaky 30 Pcs Black Adhesive Clips (for cable management) - Link
  • Google Home Mini (to control desk lights) - Link
u/danrant · 4 pointsr/AndroidAnything

You are probably talking about USB Audio, it was actually added earlier in 4.1. The device also has to support USB Host. S4 does support USB Audio. The biggest problem is that Google does not give a damn about compatibility with external accessories. As far as I understand not all external USB Audio DACs/cards are compatible with all USB Audio Android smartphones.

EDIT: Here is what I think should work. Disclaimer: I'm not absolutely sure about compatibility.

u/brother7 · 4 pointsr/pivx

So far, so good. I recommend the CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 Complete Starter Kit - 32GB Edition for $69.99 with free Prime shipping from Amazon. It's the latest model and includes all the important parts. Just add keyboard, mouse and monitor.
When setting things up, I found these links to be useful:
How to update your PIVX linux wallet to the new version using the command line
How to: Staking with the command-line wallet
Raspberry Pi and Linux-related
How to give your Raspberry Pi a Static IP Address - UPDATE
How to clear bash history completely?
Also, you should Google how to setup a headless Raspberry Pi which involves turning on SSH and/or VNC
Good luck!

u/F0UR_TWENTY · 4 pointsr/oculus

If you want to do 10ft extensions on the Rift S you need high quality cables, at least for the usb 3.0. I use Cables Matters usb and displayport cables to do 10ft on my Rift S. Nothing I have seen will allow the Rift S to do longer than 10 feet extensions.

The amazon basics 10ft usb cable would not work for me and I returned it and the cables matter one did. You also need a good usb port, in my case I needed to order an Inateck ktu3fr-4p usb card to have my Rift S work without and black screens or static passthrough problems.

u/Kellen_Heller86 · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I bought this to hold up my Zotac amp extreme 1070 which is a massive sized card with 3 fans as well. Worked really great for me other than I had to modify it a little bit but that was due to my case.

u/qa3rfqwef · 4 pointsr/pcgaming

Where are you getting the price for that ryzen 2600?

It's £125 just glancing on Amazon.

u/JBishie · 4 pointsr/oculus

A quote from a similar thread:


>Get this:

>It's the Oculus recommended USB expansion. You need dedicated ports, not splicing the bandwidth of 1 into 4 via hub. Cheaper PCI expansions are often not good enough, so get the one I just linked.

>Change the link to and it'll still show you the right product.

u/batmanandraven · 4 pointsr/hardwareswap

Hey just so you know, the 2600 is only $129 new with the cooler on amazon...might want to consider lowering it a bit.

u/MBAH2017 · 4 pointsr/buildapc

The 2600 is an excellent, excellent CPU. Easily the best bang-for-the-buck processor available at the moment, at it's regular price of $170. Right now, it's available for $150.

It's also overclockable, while the 8400 is not, which puts it ahead with no contest.

A B450 motherboard is the standard option.

u/okal414 · 4 pointsr/VFIO

Assuming PCIe, I use Renesa Fresco Logic based card below:

Mouse/keyboard and USB audio get passed through when guest starts and then back when guest closed.
Use cheap USB KVM with this so I can get keyboard/mouse back to host when guest running if I want to.

Internal header also means I can pass 2 of case front ports to Guest, quite handy.

u/Masokis · 4 pointsr/xboxone
u/saj1jr · 4 pointsr/CoDCompetitive

24" BenQ monitor, 2013 Astro A40s, Scuf controller.

The BenQ is a nice monitor. Good picture and a solid price.

You can't beat Astros imo, but it's personally preference. I've seen people say Tritons are the best and Astros suck, vice-versa, etc. I've had a few pairs of Turtle Beaches in the past, and the Astros really do blow them out of the water in sound, controls, and comfort.

The Scuf is something you get used to. I never thought I needed one then decided to get it. After a few weeks, I could never see myself playing without one. It has became complete muscle memory to jump (a lot).

I also have an ElGato capture card. If you're going to get into Gamebattles or tourneys online, some sort of capture card is pretty much 100% needed because you will get disputed for either no reason at all, or for ridiculous reasons that you can only prove with footage. It was $150 or something, but worth it if you play a lot of GB's.

Here's my setup.

Overall, over the past year, I've spent around $500 on my setup. Seems ridiculous now that I look at that price, but eh, if you can afford it, it makes the game more enjoyable.

Here are some links for those curious:

24" BenQ Monitor

Astros (I bought mine refurbished for $100 less than retail on eBay)

Elgato HD Capture Card

Scuf Controllers

u/nickgiz · 4 pointsr/oculus

It seems not all dvi to hdmi adapters will work, the cable matters works for some people at least. There is also the cable matter display port to hdmi adapter

You can also try use a HDMI repeater instead of extension

I personally just use the AmazonBasics hdmi on gtx780ti and usb extension connect to the Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports

u/PM_ME_UR_TOTS_GRILL · 4 pointsr/hardwareswap

hate to do this but the new version of that ram is going for only $70 brand new on amazon. ram prices have plummeted in the past few months

u/VA_Network_Nerd · 4 pointsr/ITCareerQuestions

I'd say stop focusing on certifications and start focusing on learning how to do things.

How extensive is your Home Lab?

Have you built out any VM's yet?
Have you built a Windows domain yet?

Have you built a Squid proxy on Linux yet? (Not that Squid is super-useful anymore, but its a decent project with clear results.)

Have you built a pfSense firewall yet?

Have you bought a Raspberry Pi yet (the cheapest Linux Server on the planet)?

When you apply for that next-level job you have in mind, in the interview I am not going to ask you questions that might appear on a certification exam. I am going to ask you questions related to real-world scenarios of problems I think you are likely to encounter in the job under discussion. And I need to see how well you are ready to deal with them.


"I can't afford any of those things..."

If you are trying to learn everything on just one computer or laptop, that's certainly a problem.
But if you have a second PC, just a $300-500 clunker, it changes everything.

CentOS Linux is free.
KVM Virtual Machine manager is free.

Linux Foundation - Intro to Linux for Free
Linux Foundation - Online Course Catalog - some free some paid
DigitalOcean Linux Tutorials
Docker Self-Paced Training

Windows Server 2012R2 Evaluation is free.
Windows 10 Professional Evaluation is free.

Microsoft Virtual Academy
Microsoft MSDN Product Evaluation Center -- Free Downloads
Microsoft TechNet Product Evaluation Center -- More Free Downloads

If you only have a single computer, and cannot afford a second computer, you still have options:

Amazon Web Services has a free offering for you to build virtual machines to play with:

If you want something a little more permanent, Amazon Light Sail now lets you build low-end virtual servers for as low as $5/month:

Microsoft also has some free offerings for virtual servers:

Microsoft Azure Cloud Services Free Trial Center
Microsoft Training Info Center
Microsoft Ignite Training Convention Video Center
Microsoft MSDN Video Training Portal


In my opinion:

If you think you are likely to apply for some Government or Contractor positions that require security clearances, go ahead and complete the Security+.

But I think you might want to focus a little more time on combining technologies into scenarios where you learn how to perform business operations tasks, rather than add another narrow-focused skillset.

I also encourage you to make yourself gain comfort with Linux.
YES: you will need to learn a whole new world of syntax and terminology, and learn to do more with syntax and less with icons.
But the benefits are real, and significant.

Buy one of these:

Amazon: Raspberry Pi 3 Complete Kit $75

That's a complete Linux Server. Just add a USB keyboard, mouse & HDMI monitor.

Watch two or three of these videos, and observe that all of the biggest players working on the sexiest of technology projects are all doing it on Linux:

USENIX Site Reliability Enginering Convention 2014 Presentations - Free
USENIX Site Reliability Enginering Convention 2015 Presentations - Free
USENIX Large Installation System Administration Conference 2014 Presentations - Free
USENIX Large Installation System Administration Conference 2015 Presentations - Free


> [MCSA]... But again, how far can I really go trying to learn this with home equipment? I'm sure I could install a Server OS, but I don't know if I can play with the inner workings on a home network enough to familiarize myself with the content.

If you have a small home server, you can install Windows Server 2012 R2 evaluation on it, and add the Hyper-V service, and run at least 2 virtual machines on it.

The Server could become a domain controller. Then you add a guest server and a guest client using Windows 10 evaluation and another Windows server eval license.

Now you join them to a domain together and start writing GPO policies and playing in the Forest...

That can also be done in Azure cloud with virtual machines. The challenge is the short duration of the free period in Azure cloud.

u/WildSide_VR · 4 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Yes it can run Netflix and Youtube. The software for it is already a simple package but if you don't learn how to install it you might struggle to use it. It's not simple plug and play. It's Linux. That being said, RaspberryPi was designed to teach children how to use computers. You can do this. There is plenty of support because tons of people have come before you and asked all the questions. All the answers are already laid out so you won't need to make any more reddit posts to get it going. Just do it.

Here's the hardware kit:

Here's the software:

Edit: don't use wireless controllers. Any USB device will do.

u/AstralElement · 4 pointsr/Gaming4Gamers

CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 Complete Starter Kit - 32 GB Edition

8bitdo SFC30 Wireless Bluetooth Controller Dual Classic Joystick for IOS / Android Gamepad - PC Mac Linux

And thousands of ROMs...

u/AaronBalton · 4 pointsr/hardwareswap

Oh my god please don't do a prebuilt from here and not likes Dell prebuilt like someone built it here. You can learn so much but buying the parts, and researching it can be a bonding experience with your son!
anyway lets get this build started!
Idk what you want but for a case that looks super sexy the NZXT S340 would be a good start, cheap and nice.
CASE:NZXT S340 Mid Tower Case CA-S340MB-GR Matte Black/Blue
Note: $74 has it cheaper. (GET THE BLUE AS I MADE IT A BLUE BUILD)
CPU:Intel Core i7-2600 Quad-Core Processor 3.4 GHz 8 MB Cache LGA 1155 - BX80623I72600
Note: $164
MOTHERBOARD: ASUS P8H61-M LE/CSM R2.0 LGA 1155 Intel H61 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard
Note: $94
RAM: PNY Anarchy 8GB Kit (2x4GB) DDR3 2133MHz (PC3-17000) CL10 Desktop Memory (BLUE) - MD8GK2D3213310AB-Z
Note: $45
POWER SUPPLY: EVGA 500 W1, 80+ WHITE 500W, 3 Year Warranty, Power Supply 100-W1-0500-KR
Note: $37
GRAPHICS CARD: ASUS ROG STRIX Radeon RX 460 4GB OC Edition AMD Gaming Graphics Card (STRIX-RX460-O4G-GAMING)
Note: $140

TOTAL: $554

Edit 2: As your budget is $600 and I don't know how lenient you are with going over or what, but an Asus RX 470 would be a better graphics card and would increase the total to around $650.

Edit 3:
AFTERMARKET CPU COOLER:Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120mm PWM Fan (RR-212E-20PK-R2)
Note: $28

Edit 4: If you want peripherals that's gonna be around $1000 in total for decent crap. I would suggest a 1080p 60hz monitor, a mechanical keyboard ( I use a G. Skillz KM780 RGB and it is fabulous), a nice pair of headphones HyperX cloud 2, and a nice set of speakers Logitech Z506. Also idk what you have but get a wifi adapter as well unless you can hook up to Ethernet which is highly recommended.

Edit 5: If any other questions just PM me glad to help you out more.

Edit 6: shit I forgot drives and OS. I'm too tired to link things anymore so I suggest getting a 128gb Samsung PRO SSD for your OS and main shit then get a Seagate 1TB HDD and you're good to go. Hopefully I covered everything.

Honestly 500-600 wouldn't make a very decent computer for a first rig. You can make one and well I made one just right now but that doesn't take into account peripherals. If you wanted 500-600 WITH peripherals that would have been the hardest budget build of my life. To maintain quality and performance, I'm cringing just thinking of it.

u/ocean_time_burger · 4 pointsr/gadgets

Haven't built mine yet but everything is arriving today and I should be set.

$70 - Cannakit (Includes raspberry pi 3 and everything you need to set it up. You can gets things a little cheaper if you order them separately but this is simple and works for me)

$10 - SNES Style USB Controller 2-pack (not necessary if you already have USB controllers)

$16 - Keyboard mouse for tv thingy (this is not a requirement but you need some form of USB keyboard and mouse to config things or you have to use SSH for everything)

So $96 total. A lot more than the $35 people try to sell you on raspberry pi's for but I think it will be a nice setup though could've gone cheaper. We'll see.

u/j_selby · 4 pointsr/emulation

Just get a Pi 3 through a standard channel (this is considered reputable by Retropie: or ), and follow this guide:

u/infocom6502 · 4 pointsr/AyyMD

This (1500x) is their best quadcore with full 2CCX's worth of 16MB L3 cache

But I'm sure the hexacore 1600 is their best midrange CPU (and best value at under $220). It's basically a higher end CPU at midrange price.

Whether the Ryzen 5 1600x qualifies as mid range or high end might depend on your income figure. I'd consider it either. $270 at Amazon right now.

u/yobowl · 4 pointsr/SteamVR

Omg your friend is an ass! I’m sorry but I’m amazed that thing is running! Please refrain from having the computer on until you get a proper cooler for BOTH your processor and graphics card. You are likely damaging the computer every time you run it.

for the processor

I don’t know what to do about the graphics card honestly but you need to cool that as well. You might be better off getting water cooling and installing it. But you also need to cool the GPU as well.

That picture of the acrylic that you don’t what it is, that is a water cooling block for the GPU!

Same with the processor, that’s a water cooling block sitting on it!

Your friend literally took out the water cooling but didn’t replace the fans!

u/Ilikeyoubignose · 4 pointsr/oculus
u/Johnny_C13 · 4 pointsr/bapccanada

You mean like a PCIe adapter? I recently purchased this via Amazon as I was converting my older PC as a HTPC, and needed wifi+BT. I was considering this one as well. Mind you for wifi only, you could probably get something cheaper.

Finally, if you haven't completed your build yet, consider a motherboard with built-in wifi. Depending on the models, you could save some money; it also liberates a PCIe slot.

You could also get USB dongles, but those usually don't perform as well (or so I heard).

u/mumrah · 4 pointsr/amateurradio

I use this one to great effect: I second the recommendation of u/DrCoolHands for an audio transformer. Check out "Easy Digi" on ebay.

Can you try testing the sound card separately on the RPi? See if you can record something with an external mic. Could be a software/driver issue.

u/Tommyp2006 · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Aside from checking cable connections, try something like a USB sound card like this one. The static could be coming from EM interference on your motherboard's built in sound processor.

u/Skeletorbitch · 4 pointsr/buildapc

Since no one is giving you an actual product I would highly recommend this. You can get them in different sizes depending on your wireless speed. I have one in my rig and haven't had any problems so far regarding internet.

u/6_lasers · 4 pointsr/explainlikeimfive

To capture the TV screen, you would use what's called a capture card,
such as this one. Your console output goes in one end of the card, and the other end of the card goes out to the TV. A third connection runs to a computer where it can be recorded by recording software. This connection contains all the same video and sound that goes to the TV.

To record yourself, you would just connect a standard webcam to your computer and either 1) record it into the same program, or 2) record with a different program and edit it together later

u/CubesTheGamer · 4 pointsr/PS4

I'll link for you:

  • Elgato: click here

  • HDMI Splitter: click here

  • You'll also want a few HDMI cables so get those here: click here and choose which length and colour of HDMI cable you want/need.
u/TaedusPrime · 4 pointsr/sffpc

For my ncase, I use a h75 on my 6600k and a h55 with a kraken g10 on my gtx 1080. It's all pretty dang quiet, not loud enough for me to comment on. I tied the h75 for my cpu to its own fan curve and the rest of the fans are on a Silverstone pwm splitter.

So my 2 case fans, 120mm h55 fan and the fan for the kraken g10 are on the same curve. When my gpu throttles up, the case fans do too. It's perfect like it is and I'm not gonna touch it.


1 120 noctua in the bottom front slot pulling air into the kraken fan for gpu.

1 92mm slim noctua for rear of case.

2 noctua 120s for each aio cooler.

You can use a good air cooler but in my case my cpu never really gets warm enough to throttle high enough to make much noise. I like the look of the dual fans on each aio rad when you pop the side off :)

Here's the fan hub, it's really small, I tuck it into the front of case above front of gpu.

u/Mateyosaur · 4 pointsr/buildapc

That is a steal, if you buy it for 750 AUD (540 USD) you could sell the RAM and buy faster sticks, like these ones. As for the CPU, you could overclock it with that liquid cooler, saving some money by not having to buy a new cpu. The GPU is worth the 750 AUD itself, but I can see if the value of it has gone down due to usage overtime. Other than that, this is a great rig and I'm sure it will perform great.

u/GhastlyFlanders · 4 pointsr/hardwareswap

The Corsair LPX ram is priced at basically retail, it's 139 on Amazon, and shipping isn't included in your price

Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3000MHz C15 Desktop Memory Kit - Black (CMK16GX4M2B3000C15)

u/aresfiend · 4 pointsr/buildapc

I see lots of downvotes to this guy who's obviously not as experienced as you guys. What's the purpose of this subreddit again? I thought it was for newer builders to ask questions and experienced builders to help.

OP, you've probably gathered by now that your stock i5 cooler isn't going to good enough. For how much I like to rag on Intel and performance per watt (essentially, performance compared to heat output) the 8700K isn't terrible. The Windale 6 is roughly $45 and perfectly competent with cooling the 8700K. If you wanted a cheaper solution the Cooler Master Hyper 212 is also a fairly solid choice. Personally I'd recommend the Windale 6 over the Hyper 212 but if, for some reason, the $15 difference is necessary the Hyper 212 would be competent. You wouldn't be able to squeeze as much performance out of the 8700K with the Hyper 212 as you could with the Windale 6 but it would get the job done.

u/fortheshitters · 4 pointsr/oculus

Please help me compile a list of known issues so we can itemize and isolate them with known successful fixes. If anyone has fixes please pile on and share them.

Known issues

  • random HDMI disconnects

  • Trouble upgrading to 3rd sensor

  • Trouble upgrading to 4th sensor

  • Floating controller

  • Setup issue

  • Camera hand off issue

  • Controller Jitter

  • guardian wall shifting


  • DO NOT MOUNT SENSORS UPSIDE DOWN. If you have them ceiling mounted, move those mounts to the walls so that your sensors can be right-side-up. - /u/MattVanAndel

  • Update Windows power plan settings. In your Power Plan's advanced settings, disable "USB selective suspend" - /u/MattVanAndel

  • In Device Manager, edit the properties for each USB hub and Oculus device and disable "Allow Windows to turn this off to save power" - /u/MattVanAndel

    Recommended Equipment

  • Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card
u/meemo4556 · 4 pointsr/DataHoarder

Upgrade that ram, ryzen LOVES high speed. Get something like 2x8gb 3200: Only $20 more

For the case I would use this: and take off the rackmount ears.

u/panthera_tigress · 4 pointsr/CFBOffTopic

This one is the bestseller on Amazon, but when I bought the BF a Pi I got him the barebones Pi by itself so he could build his own case and stuff. Depends on what your brother's interested in doing, I imagine.

u/truthycoding · 4 pointsr/RetroPie

If i were to buy a kit on amazon would this be the right one?

also the usb thing is very confusing to me...

u/musictechgeek · 4 pointsr/homeassistant

>>What hardware do I need to start running home assistant?

Learn from my experience and just pony up for a Raspberry Pi 3. I tried running HA for a while on an old Win7 laptop. Getting Python to run was a huge PITA. Then I tried running it with Docker on a Synology NAS. Nearly as bad. Then I purchased this CanaKit. A dream come true. A few days later I spent some quality time kicking myself in the rear for not having gone that route in the first place. SO MUCH BETTER.

I'm running now and definitely recommend it for just about anyone... but later. First I'd suggest installing Hassbian because, although the water is a little deeper, you'll have easier root access, and you'll be able to learn the basics much more quickly. You may decide to keep that environment -- it's great. Or you may decide to move to which, with the exception of enabling SSH, is really very easy. Just back up any .yaml files that you've customized, wipe the Pi's SD card, and install After booting a couple of times to get the "vanilla" environment initialized, put your .yaml files back, enable SSH server, Samba share, and maybe Bluetooth. You'll be back in business right where you left off.

Like I said, SSH wasn't exactly easy when I was first setting up But I documented the process I went through here, so maybe that will help.

u/RealMrsBillClinton · 4 pointsr/The_Donald

CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 Complete Starter Kit - 32 GB Edition

u/BLU3_2_U · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/PRG013 · 4 pointsr/RetroPie

Overpriced. He built that using a $5 Pi Zero.

Personally, I bought this:
It's about 10x more powerful and can play many more types of games. Has Bult-in WiFi and Ethernet.

Download RetroPie disk image from the official site.
There are a ton of videos out there to help you set it up.

I use my Xbox 360 Controllers.

u/Outsideerr · 4 pointsr/oculus

Have you got a PCI-E slot free? you can get a simple PCI-E to USB 3 card such as this:

u/SatSenses · 4 pointsr/buildapc

There are support brackets you can screw in to the expansion slots to reinforce the card, or standing support brackets that you can use. I'm on mobile so I'm not sure how you'll see the links as I do.

I did a ghetto fix too, using $5 fishing line but I'm not encouraging it.

u/heymikedude · 4 pointsr/CableManagement

Looks like it might be this.

u/72184 · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Atlas Graphics Card Brace Support. A Video Card Holder, GPU brace, for custom Deskto Pc Gaming. a GPU stand case mod.

u/Warpalliw · 4 pointsr/ARK

the 1060's are kind of high priced right now, if you want to save a bit more money but still see a massive boost in performance, i'd recommend the EVGA GeForce GTX 1050 Ti SC GAMING 4GB, its got an extra gig of memory and runs at USD 159.99 on amazon right now.

u/zig11727 · 4 pointsr/oculus

Disable power management on all Generic SuperSpeed USB hubs and USB root hub 3.0 hubs in device manager. Check your Power Plan and the following link will show you how to disable Power Management on USB hubs in device manager..
If the above doesn't work you may need a usb 3.0 expansion board but power management must be disabled on all USB devices

Also if you are extensions test the unit without using the extensions.

u/escaflow · 4 pointsr/buildapc

Agreed , 1600(non x) w/ Wraith Spire $199.99 is the better option for the budget , saved around $30 there .

u/_GoToGulag_ · 4 pointsr/bapccanada

The build looks solid, just a few things

u/ReginaldDelkFan · 4 pointsr/buildapcsales

So just to clarify, this PSU isnt noticeably inferior to the EVGA 600W 80+? (Link:

For a i5-6500, radeon 480 build, does anyone think that the Bronze is a better bet, or is this version ($15 cheaper) the correct buy?

u/R65guy · 4 pointsr/DIY

As someone who has designed many networks for paying customers, I advise you to drop this bad idea.

It can't be done. Phone lines are not part of the Cat N system. Ethernet requires 4 twisted pairs of wires to suppress the noise and cross talk. Phone lines are simply 4 straight wires. The Ethernet connectors are wired in a specific wsy to keep the signals clean.

You would be better off installing a nice mesh wireless system. Install, configure,use & enjoy. Trying to repurpose phone lines will yield unending frustration.

If you choose to roll your own with Cat 5/6 cabele, here is the connector pinout ( You should use the T568B pattern for better results. There are a number of guides to designing a proper network.

u/berkough · 4 pointsr/buildapc
u/Riezz · 4 pointsr/oculus
ordered it and got it within 10 days (Netherlands)

u/JK464 · 4 pointsr/ManyATrueNerd

Well you'd need a new graphics card and cpu.. but to upgrade cpu... you'd need a new motherboard which means new ram aswell... and on top of that a new psu to power it all .. which basically the entire computer.. so costly
Unless someone can think of a decent cpu that fits the same socket..~~

Edit: ok after some digging this is what we got:

~~CPU: Intel X6800
( )
£40 ish~~

~~RAM: 4gb Ddr2
( )
£20 ish~~

~~GPU: this is very flexible let's throw in a gtx 970 for now (it mightnt be supported this can be checked later)
(MSI NVIDIA GTX 970 Gaming Twin Frozr HDMI DVI-I DP Graphics Card (4GB, PCI Express, DDR5, 256 Bit)

~~Psu: 500w
(EVGA 100-W1-0500-KR - 500W 80 Plus Power Supply (100-W1-0500-KR)

You might want to consider a bigger hard drive maybe an ssd, also the gpu I suggested is most certainly overkill for everything else and mightnt work but it's only to give an idea for now.. I'm not even sure how well the x6800 will perform, hopefully someone more in the known can add to this

edit: i was talking rubbish

u/PillClinton710 · 4 pointsr/buildapc

Definitely cutting it close. Under load its possible your card and CPU could ramp up past 380w. I would suggest this EVGA 500W power supply to give yourself a little more breathing room.

u/Eaglesfan398 · 4 pointsr/hardwareswap
u/Skyroor · 4 pointsr/buildapc

TP-Link Wireless PCI-e adapter

This is usually the recommended adapter around here.

P.S. While some (i.e. none) components may try to murder your PC in its sleep, you personally should be safe.

u/LurkerRex · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace

This is the exact one I use. It does its job. There are also powerline adapters that are supposedly pretty great. I don't have a set up that would work with them, but I've seen them recommended plenty of times.

u/vvvvirgin · 3 pointsr/hardwareswap

A new R5 1600 is going for 150 new on Amazon. You might want to try lowering the price GLWS.

u/kythix · 3 pointsr/santashelpers

Rasperry Pi 3 Starter Kit. It's a powerful, tiny computer that is great for tinkering with. I imagine if he likes coding and pet projects, he'll find lots he can do with this.

u/Idontlikecock · 3 pointsr/headphones
u/tubezninja · 3 pointsr/applehelp
u/Daytripp · 3 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

I just ordered this with the bundle. Its on the manufacturers list for compatible ram and its a decent price/free shipping/amazon guarantee

u/GodFlash · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Whether or not your hardware's at risk depends on how much it's sagging. If you wanna fix it though, there are different kinds that you can buy like this one on Amazon. I know MSI sells one for holding up multiple GPU's, too. Alternatively, if your case can support one, you can join the cool kids club and get a vertical GPU mount. I've also seen someone do a cheap DIY solution by tying some thin fishing line to the top of the case and GPU and holding it up that way.

u/ihavegreatibrows · 3 pointsr/pocketoperators

I just grabbed one of these when i first got my POs. it works just fine.

u/WatermelonMannequin · 3 pointsr/synthesizers

If you only have two Volcas I'd just get a cheap sound card like this, it'll do what you need. An audio interface will cost probably as much as one Volca, and honestly no one listening will be able to hear the difference in quality between a sound card and an audio interface.

You won't be able to record both at once, but it's easy enough to just record them one at a time. I use one of these to record my whole setup, including synths, drum machine, and modular. For a while I kinda wanted to get a multitrack recording setup going, but then I realized it would be a waste of money and effort. Think about it: even when you have every piece of gear going at once, you only have two hands and one brain. How often do you find yourself tweaking both volcas at once?

u/Imbigazoid · 3 pointsr/buildmeapc

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU | AMD - Ryzen 7 1700 3GHz 8-Core Processor | $279.49 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | Corsair - H110i 113.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $109.99 @ Amazon
Thermal Compound | Arctic Silver - 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste | $7.25 @ Amazon
Motherboard | MSI - X370 GAMING PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard | $116.16 @ Amazon
Memory | G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $238.50 @ Amazon
Storage | Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $349.99
Storage | Samsung - 960 EVO 1TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $445.41 @ Amazon
Case | Corsair - Crystal 460X RGB ATX Mid Tower Case | $131.99
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $119.99 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Corsair - SP120 RGB High Performance 52.0 CFM 120mm Fan | $19.98 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1818.75
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-03-24 12:03 EDT-0400 |

PCpartpicker didn't find all the amazon links.

Case Amazon link:

SSD Amazon link:

With some pretty easy overclocking, messing around with XMP settings in BIOS and voltage, you can very easily push the CPU to 3.8 Ghz, People claim to push it to 4.0 Ghz though say it seemed to be a little unstable.

If you haven't cleaned out your PSU, you should. If it's younger than 5 years it's definitely still good. 100$ saved.

Windows can be obtained for free, only disadvantage is a small Windows 10 watermark on the lower right corner, and some of the OS customization settings are locked. It doesn't bother me, and it certainly doesn't convince me to spend 100$ for customization.

M.2 nvme SSDs are many times faster than a SATA SSD, for a boot drive you won't see a huge difference in boot time, but file transfer and such it definitely shines.

The extra fan is for an exhaust for the back of the case. You'll need a fan hub Here: Forgot about it :/

Ive built with this case before, and it comes with a nice SSD mounting array behind the motherboard, a kinda annoying but spacious PSU basement and great air flow. tempered glass oooo

Buy zip ties. like 50. Zip ties are your friend and so is your fully modular PSU

If you want help with your CPU overclocking, you can pm me, or look up a guide on overclockers forum. Really helpful people over there.

I made it all Amazon, because of prime, which is can save you a lot of shipping. With the cheaper vendors, its cheaper for the part, but the shipping would put you over budget.

u/druggit · 3 pointsr/Beatmatch

You could go with something simple like a usb soundcard, since you're not much into djing, example:

or you could ask your friend what he used

u/bifurk8 · 3 pointsr/oculus

Not from your motherboard, from the power supply, with the included cables/adapters. There are pictures illustrating how to plug it in on the Amazon product page here.

u/CyricYourGod · 3 pointsr/oculus

Other devices don't try to max out a USB port. It's unlikely you plugged anything into your motherboard that is as demanding as a VR headset and Oculus is general seems to try to max out the port to the spec limit.

As Phalex said, you likely need to buy a USB expansion card to use your Rift. I have the one he's talking about and it works great. -- -- this card will guarantee that your headset gets the data bandwidth and power it needs to operate.

If that doesn't work then you probably have a defective headset.

u/killhntin · 3 pointsr/oculus

> Highpoint 1144D

This one?

Then why do they recommend this cheaper USB cards in their official blog post as well?

$24 vs $109 is quiet a big difference and I feel like there shouldn't really be a need to buy another extra hardware besides the extra camera (and possibly extension cables) to get roomscale. This is making me furious!

u/OmniscientBacon · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

The CPU cooler on the Ryzen 1400 is actually pretty good. It would be more beneficial to get a 120/240 ssd instead. The 1060 6GB is still pretty over priced right now because of mining so it might be worth waiting. And [something] ( like this would be good for your wifi card.

u/cvall91 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I would say so. I bought one as my new motherboard came with a lot less USB but more 3.1 and type c connectors which I don't have. So I bought a 5 port PCI USB and it's been a perfect solution. I tried an external USB hub (non powered) but the problem is some of the externals need more power than the hub provides so they didn't work.

This is the one I have but seems no longer available on Amazon.

u/attempted · 3 pointsr/ipad

Plugging the Helix in via USB is telling the iPad to use it as an audio interface for both ins and outs. If you only want to use the Helix for input, why don't you try a cheap USB sound card with a mic level input along with a headphone jack like this. Then you can use the headphone output on the USB card.

I wish Apple would implement mac-level audio routing. It really is super easy to pick your system level input/output device, even when the two are completely different.

u/RickyCZ · 3 pointsr/buildapc

If you are talking about this RAM, Asus Strix B350-F has it in their QVL.

u/Solie_DerpWaffel · 3 pointsr/hardwareswap

FYI ram has really fallen in price recently, you can pick up a kit of 16gb Corsair vengeance 3000mhz for $65 new on amazon.



u/A3roVero · 3 pointsr/buildapc

This looks solid, but you can get DDR4-3200mhzCL16 from amazon for 70 USD if you're willing to buy online.

u/FaithwithinReason · 3 pointsr/gaming
u/E466069 · 3 pointsr/applehelp

You can buy something cheap like this or more expensive like this. Both of them will work.

One is a sound card, may have a different EQ and perhaps a very small AMP included. The other is a Digital to Analog Converter plus an Amplifier.

Hope this helps.

u/Nipz-TF2 · 3 pointsr/oculus

A usb controller card, you might have enough ports on your motherboard but if it's all handled by one controller it can't run 3 sensors + headset.

u/joopndufus · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Like /u/JohnScott623 recommended, you'll need a few things. I recommend buying something like this:

Edit: I know it's a bit overpriced, but it's convenient...

u/Tlamac · 3 pointsr/PS4

I'm using the 558's so I don't think there is much of a difference this is basically what my setup looks like but with different products.

I use the audio adapter with the Earforce amp because without it the ps4 has a hard time recognizing that a mic is plugged in. So far the quality is really good, I can hear footsteps and the TLOU had a great sound. I had a similar problem with a headphone jack except mine broke, so this was my little setup that helped me around that problem and has provided beautiful audio since February.

u/Thenatural225 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

This is what I am getting, and I used something very similar in the past, I also have an clear LED panel that is rgb that will go over the top of the lattice work.

u/emetayer · 3 pointsr/FL_Studio

Agreed that the metronome could be better.

You could always just put a click track on a channel that is routed in such a way which will bypass your recording and go straight to speakers.

You could control the volume, divisions, whatever. You could put something different on the 1,5,9,13 so you always know exactly where you are.

I should probably send this idea over to Scott, haha. Now I want to see it incorporated.

Additionally, if you were to route this track to an independent sound card, say, a cheap USB Sound Card , you could then plug in a dedicated pair of speakers and have a physical metronome that you could fade in and out whenever.

u/kansasjeremy · 3 pointsr/hardwareswap
u/arkmtech · 3 pointsr/software

Sorry, I'm not aware of any software that would do that - But you could get one of these for about $9.00. :-)

u/gracieskysoar · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

These coupons are literally not worth it UNLESS you can't be asked to wait for online shipping or you are purchasing way above the coupon minimum.

Lets take a look at their Ryzen Line. 200$ for the 2600. With the promo coupon 160$

However online

The same cpu is 164$.

But here in lies the issue. Now the cpu is 160$ NOT 199. Therefore you have to buy something else in order to get the coupon.

Lets take a different item. the i7-8700k is 370$. With the Promo its 296$. Which is amazing! Only problem its out of stock pretty much everywhere

online its $360. So you are getting a massive discount, provided you are well above the minimum purchase for the most part.

TLDR: Coupon is only really vauable for items with a high coupon margin or if you cant be asked for shipping on low coupon margin

u/JAWS_OF_FIRE · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace
  • i5-7600k - This 4 core 4 thread CPU is awesome for gaming but struggles under heavily multi-threaded workloads. It doesn't come with a cooler, I would recomend this one. Total price w/CPU cooler = $244.88 USD

  • AMD Ryzen 7 1700 - This 8 core 16 thread CPU is an absolute multi-threaded beast for the price. It's quite a lot less powerful per-core than the i5-7600k which will hurt gaming performance if your CPU is the limiting factor. It comes with a fancy RGB cooler. It's price has been dropping quite a lot recently, already down to $269.99 USD

  • AMD Ryzen 5 1600 - This 6 core 12 thread CPU is pretty much the same as the R7 1700 but with two fewer cores and four less total logical threads. It will have near the same single threaded performance as the 1700. This will also work with the same motherboards as the 1700. It ships with a slightly less fancy cooler as the 1700, but it will still keep it cool. Price is very good at $199.99 USD
u/AirCombatF22 · 3 pointsr/sffpc

I don't see any comments so I'll offer my advice. Take it with a grain of salt, as I'm always browsing r/buildapcsales and definitely more of a price/performance builder.

First of all, an $800 build with a 5700 and an SFF case and PSU is unlikely. Here's my recommendations

A Ryzen 5 3600 is like double the price of a 2600 for only 15% more speed. A 2600 is already a really solid CPU for gaming. Unless he's a hardcore gamer and streamer with a hardon for ultra settings games, I'd suggest the Ryzen 5 2600 or 2600x. On Black Friday, 2600 prices will probably drop to around $90 (they've been dropping to around $100 recently). Currently on Amazon for $118.

Really good choice in LPX RAM - that specific set actually dropped to $56 the other week and will be hopefully down again on BF.

A 5700 is fine in terms of price to performance, but if you really do want to get below your budget but still want really good performance, I'd suggest jumping on this deal asap: EVGA 1660ti for $255 on sale through Best Buy (originally $320), and you can use the first time shopping code (SHOPNEW19) for $20 off your first purchase using a google account/credit card combination you haven't used before. That effectively makes the 1660ti a $230 deal, and the 5700 (usually blowers are on sale for at best $280) performs only 30% better, sure, but you're going for a budget build, and a 1660ti can already handle anything for 1080p gaming. Even if 5700 prices drop lower on Black Friday, chances are the 1660ti will still end up being on sale for a better price/performance deal. Also should be noted that 5700's that do drop below $280 are usually blowers, and these can be very, very loud. Ultimately, check out userbenchmark, sort GPUs by value, and compare to figure out what's the best fit for you.

Not a bad SSD/HDD combination, but keep your eye out on Black Friday. Chances are that 1 TB SSDs will drop below $80.

With regards to PSU, EVGA is generally a cheaper line with still very good quality SFX PSUs. Their customer support is a lot better in my experience, but others may disagree. This 450W PSU was on sale for $69 the other day. Idk if it's your first time building, but do keep in mind to not vastly overestimate the wattage PSU you need. So many people buy 650W PSUs when they really only need to use 380W, which should only warrant buying a 450 or 550W PSU. I'd recommend this wattage calculator.

Finally, if you're really trying to do a budget build, keep an eye out on r/buildapcsales. Check early and check often. There was a sale today for a super high-end 1 TB m.2 NVME SSD that was $80, but it was sold out on Amazon in under an hour. Often times, the best deals will be sold out by the time they make it to hot. r/buildapcsales and r/sffpc are the only two subreddits I ever sort by new on lol. Again, I'm not sure how experienced you are with PC building, but make sure you're buying components of the specs that you want. There are times where I've gotten over-excited and seen a $48 RAM deal, but it turned out to be only 3000 mhz instead of 3200. Then again there have also been times where I've seen RAM prices and been like "wow, that's not even that good a deal," and then realized it was $100 for 32 GB and not 16 GB.

Afterword: Keep in mind that it's probably best to wait until Black Friday if you really want to play it safe price-wise. Don't buy everything from the same place at once if you want to save money. Buy from the credible sellers with the best prices at the best times. I've been exclusively buying from links off of r/buildapcsales and ended up with a $900 SFF build capable of all the gaming I'll need to do in college. And that's after spending $220 on a sexy SM550 case.

u/LocalAmazonBot · 3 pointsr/buildapcforme

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Link: This one


This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting).

u/Fribbtastic · 3 pointsr/gaming

> Ok here : My USBS are fucked up

There are PCIxE USB adapters so you don't have to buy a new motherboard just do have new USB ports

> and in the future i want to have a better GPU CPU .. if i have a better motherboard already thatll save a lot of time

That is the Problem, you have an LGA1155 Socket on the board at the moment but newer CPUs have LGA2066 (Intel) or Socket AM4 (AMD Ryzon). If you want to upgrade your motherboard now to another Socket you won't be able to use your old CPU and need to upgrade too.

So you won't save any time at all. You just spend more money because you buy a new motherboard with 2015 "technology" and slap the same CPU on it.

> If motherboards are that irrelevant why do they make "Better" ones then.

Because those are made for different kind of use cases. We are at a time in which even in gaming there is no noticeable performance increase if you switch a normal Motherboard with a gaming motherboard. Some have other ports others have different ports.


Why tho? if you are so adamant to buy a new Motherboard you probably won't listen to what anyone is saying here. And since you have no clue on what you are doing because all the necessary information are listed in my posts.

Don't do it man .. just don't do it. it isn't worth it.

You upgrade your PC to play games or do stuff your current setup can't handle not because you want to be more up to date ... especially not contradicting the statement to be up to date but then still use an old socket.

u/ep1center · 3 pointsr/applehelp

I use this with my Mac mini and it works great. You would need a usb-c adapter

u/boxsterguy · 3 pointsr/windows

If your goal is to recreate the "isolated audio components" hardware portion of Beats Audio, your best bet is to get a USB audio adapter/amp/dac. From USB, the audio signal is still digital so it literally can't be affected by electromagnetic noise inside the laptop. Prices range from ridiculously cheap to ridiculously expensive, just depending on what you want or need.

You probably won't hear any difference between an external device and your built-in headphone jack, but if you think your sound is bad then it doesn't hurt to try something else. Just don't judge your laptop's audio output based on the quality of the built-in speakers. Compare with headphones.

u/BeesAndChickens · 3 pointsr/amateurradio

I made a cable for my FT-450 for digital modes and I think the whole thing cost me 20-30 bucks. I used the design here and then switched back and forth between Windows and Linux before settling on fldigi/flrig/wsjtx on Linux. The most expensive component was the USB soundcard dongle (this one ought to work). At some point I will probably invest in a Signalink so I can get some finer control over audio-out levels (as opposed to doing everything in the software audio mixers), but this works well enough that I'm in no big hurry.

edit: words and a link here and there.

u/kare_kano · 3 pointsr/androidapps

If you want to do WiFi streaming, install $3.50 BubbleUPnP on the phone and use the Windows 10 built-in DLNA streaming. If you're on Ubuntu you can install pulseaudio-dlna and use it as output from sound settings. I'm sure there's something for Mac as well.

For USB, what you're looking for is called a USB DAC. If you're really strapped for cash and don't have fancy tastes in sound quality, or quality headphones, then one of these $5-7 puppies will take care of it. Quality is touch and go, some may be DOA and need replacing, but they'll get the job done. You can also go for a $20 Signstek (PCM2704), but I wouldn't recommend more expensive ones without knowing what headphones you're using and what you want from them.

If you do, I can recommend the $40 FiiO K1, $65 SMSL SD793-II or $75 FiiO E10K, but if you do that you should also look into putting $50-200 into decent headphones and you're probably not looking for that.

Whatever you do DO NOT get USB headphones. Decent ones are expensive, cheap ones are absolute crap. A $5 DAC like above and a $25 pair of Sennheiser HD202 will be better and can be replaced separately or even taken apart and repaired if they break.

u/hamie96 · 3 pointsr/SSBPM

I feel like I should maybe create a guide or something in the future for how to properly record a P:M game.

I noticed you're looking at a relatively cheap Capture Card. The one you're looking at is generally considered to have poor quality and can only output a maximum of 480i. The only Capture Card I've used (and still own) in that price range is this. It can output a maximum of 480p (which is the highest P:M will go on a Wii anyway) and works really well with VirtualDub (the software you will be using). You'll also want to pick up an S-Video Cable for the Wii so the video quality is decent.

Some people will recommend that you buy a Dazzle and while a Dazzle is decent, I'd recommend staying away from it due to the massive headaches a Dazzle Recorder can bring upon you. Some models have issues with sound, some only output 480i (not nearly as good as 480p) etc.

The next step is to download Software which will capture the game that is being played. I'd highly recommend VirtualDub as it will work with the video card listed above and can also function as a video editor afterwards.

All videos that are recorded will need to have lossless codec that they go through in order to decrease the original file size. This can take a 1-hour game original video from being 500gb to 100gb. Basically, if you record without one, you'll eat up your hard drive space fast. The best (atm) for codecs that don't lose any quality is HuffYuv. The video quality will be near 1:1 as you see on the TV while also not having a gigantic file size. You can also use Xvid if you want.

Now you'll want to edit your video. Simply use VirtualDub with simple edits. Once you have your final video, you'll want to encode the file by using a product called MeGUI. It'll encode the file into x264 and NeroAAC using a video editing language AviSynth. It's all pretty easy to use.

If you want to record on your TV and computer at the same time, it'll be a little bit of a headache. Your best bet is to buy splitters and AV female to female adapters. It may look like a mess when you finally get it setup, but it'll still have no lag (or less than 1 frame).

If you have anymore questions, feel free to ask. There are some really good tutorials and guides over at Something Awful LP Wiki. Even though it's for Lets Plays, it'll still be able to help you since you're trying to effectively do the same thing.

EDIT: You could also drop money on an Elgato HD Game Capture, but they're really expensive. The quality is second-to-none though.

u/x5cp · 3 pointsr/newzealand

Most things will be cheaper if you buy from the US but some things may not be significantly cheaper to justify the extra hassle of buying from overseas.

Look at this ram for example 16GB ddr4 ram on Amazon = US$75.73 (NZ$109.47) or buy in New Zealand from pcforce and it would cost $229.00. So you save ~$119.53 (depending on currency fluctuations).

However if the item if over $400 you will have to pay GST + Import fees of $50 and it is then usually cheaper to buy in New Zealand.

u/Istartedthewar · 3 pointsr/overclocking

Oh, forgot to mention that- my RAM is this corsair vengeance-

It seems to only want to max out at 3066Mhz.

Just found that my motherboard has a new BIOS update though, so I'll try installing that

u/dethsesh · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Well it's almost as if you have to go out of your way to get 2x4GB now. Most deals are for 16GB sets and they are priced competitively.

I'm just linking a set to get an idea of the difference, but most people are going to just shell out the extra $45 for double the ram

u/p3rfect3nemy · 3 pointsr/oculus

Just a heads up on the listed USB card. Looks to be some form of a NEC Renesas chipset. You may have compatibility issues unless someone has tried this specific card and has let you know it will work. If possible I would consider the one linked below as it has the Fresco usb controller that is supported.

u/razorbladesloveteenf · 3 pointsr/Amd

If you are going Corsair you can save money with the LPX modules:
They have the same speed and timings but with a lower profile heatsink.

u/steamprocessing · 3 pointsr/bapcsalescanada


$120 is not terrible, but I got it for $100 on November 25. Might want to hold out for better prices, or other options, if you're not in a hurry.

u/EmDeeAitch · 3 pointsr/amateurradio
u/tepattaja · 3 pointsr/oculus

I fixed mine by buing Inateck 4 port USB PCI-E card. Do not buy any USB 3 extension card. Not every driver work. I bought SilverStone USB 3 and it didn't work at all. Then bough the inateck ( ebay ships from german (worldwide) Amazon ships from german (not worldwide) )

The driver name needs to be "Fresco Logic" otherwise the extension doesn't work. The inateck card is oculus' recommended device for rift.

u/TThor · 3 pointsr/buildapc

The most important things with RAM (besides being the right type for your computer, such as DDR4), are: size (GB), clockspeed (mhz), and CAS timing (typically some number between 8-20).

The bigger the size the better, but these day 16GBs of ram is recommended, 32GB max for most users. The higher the clockspeed the better, but typically you get the most bang for your buck around 3000mhz or 3200mhz, over 3200 you tend to get diminishing performance returns for far higher cost; Also, make sure your motherboard supports the given clockspeed. CAS timing, this is a little complicated, but long story short the lower the timing the better, and the ram's actual performance is based on some equation of like clockspeed divided by cas timing or such. For 3200MHz ram, the typical cas timing is 16 (specifically "16, 18, 18, 18, 36", but don't worry about those other numbers, just the first one).

For good highspeed DDR4 ram that isn't crazy, I would recommend these.

Worth noting, if you have different ram in your computer running at different speeds, all of your ram will run as slow as the slowest ramstick. For that and some other reasons, it is best to keep all the ram in your PC the same type, so that they will all perform the same.

u/Reguluslock · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I picked an external one simply because it was super cheap, well-rated, and I had heard audio samples with the modmic.

I didn't use an internal because I have a mini-ITX case and had zero room.

Here is the amazon link to the one I am using - if you decide on this, make sure to get the (AU-MMSA) model as it provides enough voltage while newer models do not.

u/Peazuz · 3 pointsr/oculus
u/FantasyFilth · 3 pointsr/oculus

Ah I see. Yeah mine are both using usb 3.0.

"Using USB 2.0 ports degrades tracking reliability between the headset and sensor." According to Oculus support anyway.

But here's the link to the card they recommend

u/The_Window · 3 pointsr/gaming

They have a few kits on Amazon.

u/TenchiRyokoMuyo · 3 pointsr/RASPBERRY_PI_PROJECTS

I'd suggest analyzing your purpose to wanting this. Is it because you want to learn how to start doing raspberry pi/circuitry...or do you just want a GBA-cased emulator?

If you want to start learning circuitry, soldering, and raspberry pi, I suggest first starting to learn the basics of how circuitry works. Here are some amazon links for some recommended purchases, the same things I bought to start learning.

These will teach you the basics, and from there, I'd suggest learning from people who have done the project, and can provide you with the knowledge from there.

If your goal is just to have a GBA emulation toy, I'd suggest just buying one from someone who has made them - check etsy, or similar places. Lots of people have what's called a 'retropi' for sale, prebuilt. Just look for one that catches your eye.

u/LtRoyalShrimp · 3 pointsr/Twitch

Yes, you can do that.

The way I do it is I use a mixer, and I bought 4 USB sound cards, which are like $5 on Amazon. I send Skype, TS, etc to one, Games to another, music to another and mix it all via the mixer later. This gives me control over almost all my audio.

u/sardu1 · 3 pointsr/RetroPie
u/addictivepixels · 3 pointsr/oculus

That is close to what I did, and looks to be the same card. I bought two Inateck cards, each card having one controller: (non-referral link)

Oculus says you can have up to two sensors per controller. I'm using three sensors (two sensors on one Inatech card, the third on the other Inatech card, headset on motherboard USB 3.0 ports). Two of those sensors are on active USB 3.0 extension cables. No issues as of yet. Tracking has been solid, minimal occlusion, and zero USB issues.

Here is a good post from Oculus regarding USB and their hardware:

u/ProteanProjects · 3 pointsr/synthesizers

Using the USB-c to USB connector that came with my Pixel,

and a Sound adaptor:

I designed and printed the PO faceplates to beef them up a little and protect the buttons from getting pressed while packed away. I made the plate out of cardboard and felt so I could velcro attach the units however I wanted.

Thanks for the compliment!

(Edited to add info)

u/irBrrennt · 3 pointsr/CanadianHardwareSwap

There is one used on amazon for $173 but a new one is only $187 with free shipping on both.

u/fletcherhub3 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Looks like a really good build. I will put part links in the end of the post. Here's some tips to save a bit of money if you're open to it:

  1. Power supply: 550 watts is a great amount for this system. You could save some money by passing on the 80+ gold rating (although it's great to have a super efficient power supply, you don't need 80+ gold) and get a power supply that has an 80+ bronze efficiency rating. A power supply being fully modular isn't a must either, for me at least. A good semi-modular pick would be the Rosewill Hive 550, I have it and it has has sleeved black cables for about $55. If you want to save more money on the PSU, though, the EVGA basic 550W unit has all black cables and goes for around $43. Otherwise, the 600B from EVGA is a great 600W unit for around $50. Changing your power supply with these options might save you around $30-$40.
  2. RAM: there are 16GB kits out there that are cheaper than the ones you selected, some are even in red to match your color scheme. I know there is a kit from Corsair that goes for around $80, so that might save you $20-$30 there. Otherwise, if you can't afford 16GB at the beginning of the build, 8GB will suffice until you upgrade. Just make sure if you get 8GB, get a single stick so you can throw another one in later. 8GB instead of 16 GB may save you $30-$40.
  3. CPU cooler: The i5 6500 comes with its own stock cooler, so you can save around $25 by not paying for a CPU cooler right away. Otherwise, the 212 Evo is a superb cooler and also comes in a red LED fan version for a few bucks more :D
  4. GPU: The GTX 1060 is a great option for a video card, but the RX 480 from AMD might be able to save you a few bucks right now and down the road. When you look to purchase another monitor, options with FreeSync (AMD adaptive sync) are normally cheaper than monitors with G-Sync (Nvidia adaptive sync). Adaptive sync monitors will make your gameplay smoother. Also, if you get a motherboard that supports crossfire, you can throw another RX 480 in your rig in the future. I will recommend you a motherboard for this at the end, and it won't cost you much more than your current one. An RX 480 8GB starts at around $230. Also, RX 480's are said to be better in DX12, another "future proofer".
  5. Motherboard (minor): H110 is a budget chipset, and a Micro ATX one will save you a bit of money. BUT, if you want another RX 480, you'll need a motherboard with 2 PCIe slots to house them. An ATX motherboard will fill your case better, not look as awkward as a mATX one, and will let you put another RX 480 card in your rig in the future. A good ATX motherboard that would work for this build would be the Asus B150-PLUS for $95. This may be a bit expensive, but you could spend your saved money on this part. I highly suggest you exercise this option.
  6. Storage: if 250GB is enough for you, then you could save some money by not getting a Samsung SSD. An SSD comparable to this would be the Crucial MX300 275GB for around $80. Also, the SanDisk z400s is $75 and is 256GB. If you want more storage, though, I would recommend a 120GB SSD like the PNY CS1311 for $40 and a 1TB hard drive like the WD Blue for $50.

    TL;DR: cut back on PSU efficiency ratings, look for different 16GB or even 8GB RAM kits, ditch CPU cooler (or keep if you want), get an RX 480 for saving money on future monitors, you can also put another RX 480 in your build in the future with a different motherboard; an ATX motherboard would fill your case and add capability for a second RX 480, a non-Samsung SSD could save you some money, while for $100, you can get an SSD and a 1TB hard drive.

    “Basic” EVGA 550W
    Rosewill Hive-550
    EVGA 600B
    Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO LED
    RX 480 -choose which one you like
    Asus B150-PLUS
    Crucial MX 300 275GB
    SanDisk Z400S 256GB
    WD Blue 1TB

    I hope my advice helped you and that this didn't overwhelm you. If you save enough money, you could throw in a red LED PWM fan, which adjusts its speed based on your computer's needs. You could maybe even throw in an LED strip or two. I had a lot of fun making this, thanks for posting :D
u/Smacpats111111 · 3 pointsr/buildapc
u/Herdnerfer · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I bought this one for my nephews PC, works pretty good, Skyrim is buttery smooth at 1080p.

EVGA GeForce GTX 1050 Ti SC GAMING, 4GB GDDR5, DX12 OSD Support (PXOC) Graphics Card 04G-P4-6253-KR

u/cole_8888 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You are probably fine, but since PSU's are pretty cheap I would consider an upgrade to prevent any issues.


I can attest to the longevity and performance of this one, been running in my rig for 4 years now.

u/karlaxxx · 3 pointsr/oculus

The Rift S in a pita regarding the USB port..... On my previous setup (GTX 1070) I had to buy a pcie USB card for the headset to work, it was this one:

[5 ports+ 20pin]Inateck PCI Carte USB 3.0 5 Ports USB 3.0 connecteur à 20 broches avec connecteur 15 broches Sata, un 4 broches 2x15pin câble, une Y-câble prise SATA

Since I upgraded my gpu to a RTX 2080 super, I use the USB-C connector onboard and it's working great indeed....

Hope that helps!

u/idontcare1996 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

easier and cheaper just to get a USB one.

But..., here's one from gigabyte:

u/CherryBlossomStorm · 3 pointsr/buildapc

You can buy bluetooth+wifi combo cards. bluetooth is so handy. popular choice but others exist.

If you don't buy a wifi card, and it's not on your motherboard, you will not have wifi, only ethernet.

u/RS_Hauntedpearl · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Really depends on price range. The Cooler Master Hyper 212 is probably the most popular one out there and comes at a pretty nice price point. If you're looking for something more powerful and don't care about cost check out the Noctua NH-D15 which actually beats out some AIO watercoolers.

I personally avoid watercooling due to the higher chance of failure (pump dying) and possible damage to components (leaks) but some swear by it so that's upto you. (Corsair h100i is the most commonly used I believe)

u/drfoqui · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I have this Gigabyte and it does the job. If you're more on a budget make sure you are still getting a card that supports ac wifi. There's also some Asus and TPLINK cards under $50 that look similar.

u/rebelsoul94 · 3 pointsr/IndianGaming

get evga 1050ti for ~9.5k 1050ti is the best in the 9-12k range.

u/Skotzie · 3 pointsr/oculus

Don't be so sad my friend. Performance hasn't increased that much over the past couple of generations of Intel cpu's since Sandy Bridge. Yes a 4690K is an decent upgrade but overall 2500K is not a bad CPU at all. It's still better than almost every AMD CPU in many gaming scenarios.

My recommendation to you is to upgrade your GPU to GTX 970 or similar for amazing value, and then buy an aftermarket cooler for your cpu, so you can overclock your CPU to hefty speeds. Something like the Thermalright True Spirit 140 Power is incredible good for the size and prize. Link to Amazon. Or the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO is also very capable for overclocking, though the Thermalright True Spirit 140 power is still quite a bit better.

Here are some video tutorials for overclocking the i5 2500K if you are new to this. It's not as hard as many people think. You don't have to overclock it to extremes, but maybe just a slight overclock like 4.2 or 4.3 GHz with slight voltage increase should be enough and give a decent boost. This small of an overclock might not even require an aftermarket CPU cooler(you can try), but I would recommend it anyways since it is less noisy than the stock cooler, and you can maybe use it for your next CPU too for overclocking.

This will give you a lot of performance increase combined with a GTX 970 upgrade. Though overclocking might not be necessary at first, unless you notice some performance issues.

u/ogreyo · 3 pointsr/PUBATTLEGROUNDS

heya, really just wanted to tell you that you can completely rid of the background mic static if you use something like this (just for the mic).

helped me tremendously.

u/zupzupper · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Link: I bought one of these, fixes it right up. If you're looking for higher end you'll want to look at the different PI-DAC projects like

u/OverExclamated · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Open back - SHP9500s + VModa BoomPro

Closed back - Takstar Pro82 + Microphone

USB Dongle

Amazon used for convenience. Shop around for best pricing. Reviews for everything mentioned available on YouTube.

u/DualDamageSystems · 3 pointsr/Vive

Get a USB audio adapter like this and the usb extension from htc here and plus that into your vives extra usb slot.

u/Timlad · 3 pointsr/shittybattlestations

I'm using this. Not a lot of money at all.

I'm paying for 100down/10up and it seems to work pretty well:

u/ValhundOmega · 3 pointsr/buildapc

It's a common issue with PC mounted audio jacks.

Best way to to get a USB adapter like

I had the same problem with my modmic but this cleaned the input up.

u/JCOnyx · 3 pointsr/SSBPM

This isn't actually true. The component cable that it comes with is compatible with composite cables. I can record SNES gameplay with just the component cable by placing the yellow end in the red video slot.

It also upscales at a faster rate then my television does, meaning I get less lag playing through my Elgato then if my SNES was just connected to my HD television. A major plus, if you don't happen to have a CRT tv.

EDIT: Here is the amazon page for what you are looking for Draven_You_Crazy

u/mistical · 3 pointsr/AskTechnology

I'd recommend doing all of this by streaming over Twitch. That way she'll be able to watch your stream from any of her devices as they all have the Twitch app (and alternatives like Pocket Plays). This will make things much easier for what you want to accomplish.

The software you'd use to stream all of this from an external capture card would be OBS, Open Source Broadcaster (free).

And finally, you have a variety of choices as to which hardware you could use to do this all with. Here are a few choices to take a look at and depending on your price range:

  • AVerMedia Live Gamer Extreme $139.99 (supports [email protected], USB 3.0 compatible)
  • Elgato Game Capture HD60 S $149.95 (supports [email protected], USB 3.0 compatible)
  • AVerMedia Game Capture HD2 $168.64 (only [email protected])
  • AVerMedia AVerCapture HD $99 (if lower budget, only [email protected])
  • Elgato Game Capture HD $125.89 (only [email protected])

    If I had to go with an external capture card, I'd either go with the AVerMedia Live Gamer Extreme or Elgato Game Capture HD60 S. So read up on these and see what the pros and cons of each are.

    Now as far as latency between you and her, that will all depend on your upstream bandwidth for your internet connection as well as what video resolution and fps you'd be streaming at. But in normal/good scenarios, this will be 10-20 seconds.
u/philosoraptor42 · 3 pointsr/ExtraLife

Not optimal, but maybe live stream via webcam? I've thought about doing that to stream 3DS games since 3DS XL capture cards are pretty expensive. Your computer doesn't really need to be all that beefy to stream I don't think, the only thing you need to run is something like OBS or XSplit to stream to Hitbox or Twitch.

If you have the means (not sure if capabilities means lack of funds), Elgato makes a capture device that's USB that would probably work for you. The device itself handles most of the work IIRC, so I don't think the PC has to do much. It's something you could look into, and it also comes with a cable that can handle the encrypted HD signal that the PS3 uses. It also gets its power from the USB and doesn't require an AC adapter/plug space on your surge strip. If you're interested in looking into it, here it is.

u/sweet_chin_music · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

I have this mobo. I ordered this USB sound thing because I'm cheap.

u/AtlasRush · 3 pointsr/intel

Instead of 4x4 modules, get 2x8 modules. Here's the 2x8 3000 MHz kit:
Regarding the mainboard, you could invest those 20£ more in a better one, like a Killer SLI.

u/Pilzsuppe · 3 pointsr/buildapc

If you don't have a ton of data, you can easily use only 1TB of HDD.

Also, the 212 Evo+ is a good cooler :)

u/djtheninja · 3 pointsr/letsplay

Console Capture Cards

  • Elgato Game Capture HD $135

  • Roxio Game Capture HS Pro $100 (Basic) $150 (Pro)

  • Black Magic Intensity Pro Starts at $200

  • Happauge $150 (One of the most used ones that I've seen)

    PC Recording Software

  • Dxtory 3600 JPY or $36.30
    • One of the most used recording programs nowadays. Relies more on HDD speed.
  • MSI Afterburner Free, but can't be used on certain games without a workaround

  • FRAPS $37

    All of the programs listed, except for FRAPS can do multitrack recording. Dxtory can actually give you the seprate tracks without another program, but MSI either requires another program to get them; except if your editing program can do it by itself (Ex. Sony Vegas)

    Editing Programs


  • Audacity - FREE | Seriously the best audio editing programs that I've ever used. Supports auto ducking and background noise removal.


  • Windows Movie Maker - FREE | For basic editing, you can probably get away with this.

  • Sony Vegas $600 | Only drop that much if you are going to do some SERIOUS, and I mean SERIOUS editing. TRIAL AVAILABLE

  • Sony Movie Studio Starts at $94.99 | I've been using the trial and have been satisfied by it. Has all the features that a let's player could ever need, for 1/6th if the cost. It's basically Vegas' little brother. TRIAL AVALIBLE

  • Adobe Cloud $20 a month for one program or $50 a month for a bunch of programs. TRIAL AVAILABLE

    Photo (Thumbnails)

  • FREE | Works pretty well; even better if you get some plugins. Suits all of the basic needs of a Let's Player without all the fancy stuff

  • Adobe Cloud |Photo Shop| - See Adobe Cloud above. TRIAL AVALIABLE

  • Paint Shop Pro $49.99 Kinda Fancy photo editor. Much like Photoshop. TRIAL AVAILABLE
u/JacobNordhoff · 3 pointsr/HardwareSwapUK

It's also only £110 on Amazon :/

u/TeganGibby · 3 pointsr/letsplay

If I were you, I'd just spend an extra $5 and get an Elgato. Approx. 1.5 sec delay but has lagless HDMI passthrough (including conversion from component/composite to HDMI). Works with everything on the market nowadays.

u/doowopshabop · 3 pointsr/buildapcforme

For $2,000, you can score a pretty excellent VR dev rig.

If you're already using UE4, and you've got got your DK1, you're probably relatively familiar with the basic demands— The faster your CPU, the faster everything compiles, and more ability you have to get things done simultaneously outside your IDE. RAM is a similar story, as well letting you play with more polys and textures in whatever modeling program you use. For the GPU, various Oculus people have dropped the hint that you pretty much want a GTX 770 as a baseline for advanced apps [source]. That's consistent with what benchmarks have had to say about what it'll take to drive the (probably) 1440p CV1.

With regards to the OS, there are very few reasons to use Windows 7. You can read some reddit discussions about that here or here, but the moral of the story is that everything works better on 8 except maybe the layout, which you can change.

$2,000 is a good spot— it's pretty much where the bang-for-buck curve becomes a cliff. Here's about how that build looks:

Full-Featured VR Kit

| part | link | | price |
|cpu|Intel Core i7-4770K Quad-Core Desktop Processor (3.5 GHz, 8 MB Cache, Intel HD graphics, BX80646I74770K)|amazon|$299.99|
|video card|EVGA GeForce GTX780 SuperClocked w/EVGA ACX Cooler 3GB GDDR5 384bit, DVI-I, DVI-D, HDMI,DP, SLI Ready (03G-P4-2784-KR)|amazon|$509.99|
|ram|G.SKILL Value 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-1600C11D-16GNT|newegg|$127.99|
|motherboard|ASRock Z87 PRO3 LGA 1150 Intel Z87 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard|newegg|$94.99|
|power supply|CORSAIR RM Series RM750 750W ATX12V v2.31 and EPS 2.92 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Full Modular Active PFC Power Supply|newegg|$129.99|
|case|Corsair Carbide Series Black 400R Mid Tower Computer Case (CC-9011011-WW)|amazon|$79.99|
|ssd|Crucial M500 240GB SATA 2.5" 7mm (with 9.5mm adapter) Internal Solid State Drive CT240M500SSD1|newegg|$114.99|
|hard drive|Western Digital WD10EZEX 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive, Blue - OEM|newegg|$59.99|
|disc drive|Lite-On Super AllWrite 24X SATA DVD+/-RW Dual Layer Drive - Bulk - IHAS124-04 (Black)|amazon|$20.65|
|operating system|Windows 8.1 System Builder OEM DVD 64-Bit|amazon|$92.00|
|fans|Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120mm PWM Fan (RR-212E-20PK-R2)|amazon|$32.00|
|monitor|LG IPS234V-PN Black 23" 14ms (GTG) HDMI Widescreen LED Backlight LCD Monitor IPS 250 cd/m2 5,000,000:1x2|newegg|$299.98|
| |See current build price with shipping and tax| total | $1862.55|

Learn more and customize this build at

This leaves you with wiggle-room, to make a couple decisions based on your uses and preferences. You could bump one of the monitors up to 27" 1440p, you could bump the very capable GTX 780 up to a 780 Ti, you could move up to 32GB of RAM, increase the size of the SSD, or just pocket the change. It really depends on what apps you're trying to produce, and what your workflow looks like— if it were me, I'd lean towards the 1440p screen, just for workflow reasons.

If you have any questions (or anything to teach me), let me know!

u/MegaMadness · 3 pointsr/buildapc

With such a budget you should definitely consider getting some higher speed RAM. Higher Speed RAM is VERY important with a Ryzen CPU. I recommend having a RAM of around 3000-3200 Mhz Speed.

Take a look at this 3200 Mhz, use this RAM. This is in USD money but it translates to $254.38 AUD.

Also you do not have to get liquid metal, but if I were you I would get the Arctic MX-4. I heard it is slightly better then the Silver 5 and you can get it for cheaper if you get a smaller tube. ($8.50 AUD)

I also know you said you don't want to go for a better CPU but with such a powerful GPU I am worried your 1700X might cause a bottleneck. I'd say go for the 1800X due to its higher base clock and overall slightly improved core performance. Or just go for Intel since their CPUs are much more performance based rather then budget based which is what AMD's CPUs are.

u/Natemiester · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

That depends on whether or not you want to OC. I personally have a pretty large overclock (1 GHz) on my i5-3570k, and it's really helped my processor stay competitive. With a Hyper 212 Evo, you can get a great overclock, especially considering it's only $30.

u/-m_x- · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I also found this It may suit you better.

u/iregret · 3 pointsr/Amd

Any word on how the Corsair Vengeance IPX ram fairs?
Specifically this kit:

(Technically, 2 of these kits...)

u/Torschlusspaniker · 3 pointsr/techsupport

most usb dongles suck.

The mini ones really suck.

I have had good luck with linksys and Asus AC devices

WUSB6300 worked well.

You are better off getting an internal card.

tl;dr: All of those are shit , get a good one.

u/good_guy_old_gregg · 3 pointsr/oculus

Edit: see other comments, some say these cards are flaky or even catch fire in one case. It works for me, but some people prefer the Startech cards, they are just more expensive.

u/CuppaJoe12 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Wow, I'm literally about to order the same build. I'm getting a H100i cpu cooler, the Maximus VI Hero instead of the Z87 pro mobo, and a Seagate Barracuda 1TB instead of a Caviar Blue 1TB HD. I'm also getting the red/black version to match my mobo. Everything else is the same even the same brand GTX 770. Please let me know how it runs, especially how quiet it is.

You have a lot of fans and an overclockable CPU. I would recommend you get an aftermarket CPU cooler to take advantage of these features. As I said above, I'm gonna try the Corsair H100i, but it is pretty expensive. Some less expensive air coolers that I think would look good in this build are

[Phanteks TC12DX]( fs=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1393992252&sr=1-10&keywords=phanteks+ph-tc14pe) for $60 on [sale for $40 + shipping] ( right now

Enermax ETS-T40 for $50 (also has leds on the stock fans)

And of course, the [Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo] ( for $35 which doesn't match as well but is cheap.

Great job on cable management (it's supposedly easy in this case) and I agree that it need a light on the inside. Let me know what light you end up getting because now I want one too.

u/Zerock0130 · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

My wife actually got me one of these kit last year, and it's a great starter kit!

You can also find them on amazon here as well.

u/wannabuyameme · 3 pointsr/Amd

I had my old 8320 at 4.5 ghz on a Hyper 212 evo and it was certainly worth it over the stock clocks, but definitely get a better cooler, the stock one cannot handle overclocking.

u/sjforeversj · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I recommend to just stick with the stock cooler and save a few bucks, but if you really want an after market cooler the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO should work great.

u/Vay-Pour · 3 pointsr/kingcobrajfs


and a script to run this script every 5 minutes.

The pi has to always be on.

I have an extra laptop as well running the same process (also linux) just in case one or the other happen to break.

u/ThisGoldAintFree · 3 pointsr/NavCoin

Does this set have everything that you need to make a NavPi of your own? Also where can I download the NavPi software?

u/WhiteZero · 3 pointsr/oculus

What you linked to is a USB Hub, which is not recommended. You'll want an actual USB Expansion Card, like this one.

u/SigmaThreeNiner · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

PRI3 has wifi built in, while you can set it up headless and access it via SSH if you are new to Linux you will want a USB KB\Mouse and an monitor with a HDMI port and a hdmi cable for your first few times.

This is a great starter kit.. it included everything to get started.

u/Highdefkitten · 3 pointsr/Minecraft

This small guide is only for CPUs, for GPUs all you have to do is download a program, I'll link that at the bottom


First off, you gotta make sure your board is capable of overclocking, chances are you have a Z-series board because you have a k series processor.

K Series processor = overclockable

Z Series motherboard = overclockable

Those are just the basics, I assume you know them.

So to overclock, you're going to need to go into your BIOS, again depends on your motherboard, but while booting up you should press either, F1, F2, F10, Delete or Escape. Once you've figured out the key to get into your BIOS, you can start tweaking.

A really important thing if you're going to overclock is an aftermarket cooler, such as a Hyper 212 (Great value) or a Corsair H115i (Top of line watercooler, pricey) or an equivelent air cooler, like the Noctua NH-D15 (My personal favorite, it's what I hit my 4.9 GHz OC on)

If you already have an after market cooler, that's perfect, and you can continue. But if you don't, I highly recommend picking up a Hyper 212, it's only $25 and will get you a huge amount of performance out of your PC, until then I'd highly reccomend not OCing.

Here are the next steps, I would type them all myself, but that article summarized perfectly, and it's very recent too.


As for overclocking your GPU, just download your GPU's Brand-specific program, like MSI Afterburner, EVGA Precision X, etc. They really all work on any GPU, but it's nice to use the one "made" for your specific GPU.

(Note, these only work on Nvidia cards, you'll have to download completely different stuff for AMD)

I hope this helps, don't be afraid of pushing your system, just don't push it too far. Either way, the worst that would happen if you OC "too" hard is you'll BSOD on startup and you'll just have to set your multiplier/voltage lower. It won't affect the longevity of your PC in any way, Enjoy!

u/code7747 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

you can get one here its a decent buy, i have one my self

u/jayact · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I'm a big fan of this wifi adapter. You get bluetooth and wifi built into one. I've seen it around $25 sometimes.

u/LostHisDog · 3 pointsr/oculus

From the FAQ:

Frequent sensor disconnection issues or tracking glitches
This is an issue with your motherboard's USB controller not being fully compliant with the USB 3.0 spec.

Try putting 1 of your sensors into a USB 2.0 port instead of having both in USB 3.0.

If that does not solve your issue, you should buy the Inateck KTU3FR-4P PCI-E USB 3.0 card: USA | UK | Canada | Germany | France

NOTE: only this exact model, the 4 port version, is verified to work on all systems. Do not buy an alternative.


It's not actually the recommended card perse anymore, the above was for the old Rift but it is the card most people are using. Sadly, the USB controller with the most issues is the Asmedia like the one you ordered.

u/A_Team_254_Member · 3 pointsr/hardwareswap

Yeah and someone else added in that prices were a lot higher in Canada...makes senses that seller's price is higher than someone who's selling in the US


u/northup41 · 3 pointsr/24hoursupport

According to this an i7 average temp is 50-65c

My suggestion, clean out your case all the way, clean and reapply thermal past to the heat sink. Also if you want to I have had fantastic results with this fan heats sink combo.

u/re_error · 3 pointsr/intel
u/kleintrpt · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Agreed; was just funny how Strawberry 644 told OP it would be nice but simultaneously useless ;)

In any case, this would be affordable and complement the lighted theme:

Heatsink: Cooler Master Hyper 212

Fans for Heatsink (x2): Corsair Air Series AF120

I have the same (except Red LEDs since it matches my rig more so) and it looks amazing (and of course temps are down).

Edit: Crappy picture of mine

u/Cakeofdestiny · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Oh... That's not good. You'll need to get a new PSU too. This one will be good -

Make sure everything fits, usually those Dell cases aren't designed for upgradability.

u/tahm_clutch · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

Is this the same as 600 B1? If it is, I think amazon price matched.

u/SaxyGeek · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

The 600b is great for that build and is currently on sale for $40.

u/Kosaki · 3 pointsr/buildapc

How about the 2600 instead while it's currently on sale for 149.99
AMD Ryzen 5 2600 Processor with Wraith Stealth Cooler - YD2600BBAFBOX

u/SovereignGW · 3 pointsr/oculus

I bought a headset and realized my USB 3.0 ports weren't properly compatible (MSI 970 Gaming mobo). For whatever reasons drivers weren't compatible (Oculus compatibility check tool on their site can tell you if yours is compatible or not). You need 2 USB 3.0 ports for the sensors, I plugged my headset into a 2.0 which is fine.

For your reference this is the card I bought:

I also bought 8gb of RAM so I would have 16gb... Just in case. Most people already have that though.

u/eclark5483 · 3 pointsr/buildapcforme

Phreakwar PC Parts List

CPU | AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor | $117.68 @ Amazon
Motherboard | Gigabyte B450M DS3H Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $72.98 @ Amazon
Memory | Team T-FORCE VULCAN Z 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $59.99 @ Newegg
Storage | ADATA XPG SX6000 Pro 256 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | $39.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | MSI GeForce GTX 1660 6 GB VENTUS XS OC Video Card | $198.99 @ B&H
Case | Cougar MX330-G ATX Mid Tower Case | $46.98 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Raidmax Scorpio 535 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply | $49.99 @ Amazon
| Total | $586.60
| Generated by Phreakwar PC Custom Builds |

u/killav420 · 3 pointsr/Amd




right here bro you will find this to be a great upgrade no skips or pauses in your game play like the i5 if you want to go cheap you can get a 1600 and a b350 mobo this is my exact cpu and mobo i came from and 4 core 8 thread intel chip and this was a hell of an upgrade very with the 12 threads its very future proof at a completely reasonable price dont let intel fool you

u/Rafport · 3 pointsr/Vive

It's a very old issue, there are plenty of those posts in the first months of Vive avaliability (this one for example).

Is not related to 3.0, it depends from some USB controllers than doesn't work as they should with the Vive (an additional USB controller could solve this for a cheap price). Being 3.0 and 2.0 slots connected to different controllers, this explain why moving the Vive could solve the problem, where obviously would be better to use a 3.0 controller without issues.

u/jackinab0x · 3 pointsr/Amd

OP Dont get that PSU if you value your system, get this instead.

u/xXDanger_ZoneXx · 3 pointsr/ARK_pc

CPU: Intel i7 6700K

Heatsink:CoolMaster Hyper 212 Evo

Motherboard: MSI B250

RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB Series

Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOA 850 P2

Video Card: ASUS ROG-STRIX-GTX1080

Storage: WD Black 1TB

Extra Performance for OS: WD Blue 250GB SSD

u/GrumpyFeloPR · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I mean the product description page is for the 212 evo, that is correct but if you go to the page with the prices and who is selling it (the link below)

You can see is only 6 people, 3rd party sellers. None are amazon themselfes

u/Iceheim · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

well, back to topic;

Do you absolutely must include Corsair h100i in your build ? i think you can save some by using air cooler and use the budget saved from that for Graphic card or CPU.

For example, this 212 Evo here.

u/Ceadarz101 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Yeah, this one is close to twice the price, but you need a good power supply for your build.

u/machinehead933 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

> but my issue is the fact that with 5ghz wifi it has a cap of 300mbps

That's because it isn't 802.11ac compatible. It clearly says it only supports up to 802.11n, it's even in the name of the card. If you have an AC router, you should get an AC adapter like this one which is only $9 more.

u/Nahors · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I think its fine from what i know about pc building. But if you want faster boot times then think about getting a ssd and if you want to over clock think about getting a better cpu cooler. The stock Ryzen 3 cooler is not bad but if you want to get some good overclock on it think about getting a after market cooler. This is one i found on amazon: Also if you want a water cooled one you need to see if your case supports water cooling.

u/clupean · 3 pointsr/buildapc

It's pretty straight forward:

  • two USB 3.0 active extention cables $35 each (do you really need two?)
  • the USB hubs must be powered $16-45
  • no need for 3.5mm audio cables, use usb audio $7
  • HDMI and DVI cables: just buy normal ones $20-30 each.

u/frisbii · 3 pointsr/Cubers

Can I use this cable adapter and this usb splitter? I'm planning to get a speedstacks timer and I want to connect it to my laptop (only unified audio jack)

u/pavlpants · 3 pointsr/androidapps

You said your audio jack is broken. Can you buy a cheap USB to stereo out adapter and use that with normal speakers or headphones?

There are apps like SoundWire but I don't if anything like that will have low enough latency for gaming.

u/Jaidrox · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Only a few things to look for when you're looking for a wireless card:

  1. PCIe/USB interface

  2. Speed and Dual Band support

  3. External antenna

    I have a TP-Link TL-WDN4800. Worked straight out of the box and haven't had an issues with connecting or speed throttles. No need to deal with any external antenna wires either.

    edit: formatting
u/sadisticpotato · 3 pointsr/buildapc

On a stock CPU, you don't need a watercooler at all. Even the stock cooler will do perfectly fine on stock speeds. However, you should probably consider overclocking your CPU, as you have a K-series, which is unlocked. Just make sure you have a supported (re: Z170) motherboard.

Now for the cooler; if you aren't planning on overclocking, just use your stock cooler. If you don't have it, I'd recommend the Hyper 212 EVO, as it's cheap and does the job. Also gives you ample headroom for moderate overclocking in the future. If you are really planning on overclocking, I'd actually recommend the H100i v2, as it's only $10 more, but provides much better cooling performance because it's a 240mm rad. You should get 4+ Ghz easy on that cooler. >= 4.5 Ghz really depends on the CPU, or the "silicon lottery" as they say.

Link to H100i V2:

Link to Hyper 212 EVO:

u/belink1 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I bought several <$50 items:
This keyboard is a great deal for a back lighted mechanical one.

Also this any of these refurbished mouses, I specifically got one of the M65:

If things are running hot in the CPU, you could also get a Hyper Evo 212.

Hope this helps!

u/2old2care · 3 pointsr/audioengineering

Maybe you need one of these.

u/koupS · 3 pointsr/pcgaming

Try a USB soundcard like this one

u/_skreem · 3 pointsr/hackintosh

If you can fix it easily, nice job, but don't spend too much time trying to get it to work. user badchromosome referred me to this : Just another USB dongle!

Just to add to your options :)
It really is worth it. I couldn't get my audio to work again after 10.11.4, and it was really frustrating. Having this work equally well was really fantastic and worth every penny, especially knowing if something happens to my setup, I won't ever need to try and get audio to work. It'll just work :)

u/Cyotheking · 3 pointsr/Cubers

It is possible that you need a USB adapter. I have a video coming out next week that is very in depth about getting CStimer to work with a stackmat.

You can buy one cheap here:

For combined audio ports this will likely solve your issue.

u/shinyname · 3 pointsr/gaming

You have to be careful, if you're not gonna plug it into a TV, because it only has HDMI since it's supposed to be a console hybrid, you need to buy a USB sound card like this , a Keyboard and mouse, and a USB hub, so you'll have more slots free. On the other hand, if you're looking for a TV steam box, you should be fine with just a controller.

u/stephengee · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

If you just need a cheap way to connect the mic you already have, you can buy USB sound devices for next to nothing. I realize this is an amazon US link, but I'm not familiar with your online retailers :P I'm sure you can find them without too much trouble.

Obviously they won't have the same quality as a blue snowball, but it could hold you over.

u/retsotrembla · 3 pointsr/osx

You can't force it to use a device that it does not think exists.

I have a similar problem. I use a cheap USB->Audio Headphone adapter and just select it in the Sound panel of System Preferences.

u/bmlbytes · 3 pointsr/techsupport

It's an optical port, which means it uses light instead of electricity to send the signal. There are converters for those, but they tend to be more expensive than just getting a sound card.

You can get a cheap usb sound card pretty easily. Here's one for less than $7.

u/sadistic_angel · 3 pointsr/MSILaptops

it looks like PS4 has a remote play feature which might be easier and shouldn't require any extra hardware,

otherwise i've heard good about the elgato capture card,

if you go with streaming i highly recommend using a wired ethernet connection for both the playstation and laptop

u/obito07 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/TheDreadfulSagittary · 3 pointsr/buildapcforme

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU | AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor | $327.89 @ B&H
CPU Cooler | Fractal Design Celsius S36 87.6 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $117.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | Asus PRIME X570-PRO ATX AM4 Motherboard | $236.99 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | G.Skill Trident Z Neo 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory | $134.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Corsair MP510 960 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | $135.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11 GB GAMING OC Video Card | $1129.99 @ SuperBiiz
Case | NZXT H700 ATX Mid Tower Case | $134.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA G3 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply | $110.00 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $99.95 @ Amazon
Monitor | Gigabyte AORUS AD27QD-SA 27.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor | $499.99 @ Newegg
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $2978.76
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-08-23 19:03 EDT-0400 |

You'll also want to get this fan hub.

Here is an extensive guide to building a PC, covers most of the topics of putting it together. You'll also want to enable XMP (sometimes called DOCP) in the BIOS to make sure the RAM is running at the full speed, and remember to set your monitor to 144hz in the Nvidia control panel when you've installed Windows and Drivers.

Feel free to ask any questions.

u/seanlax5 · 3 pointsr/CitiesSkylines

Fortunately not needed. I did a lot of temp testing while setting it up, and 5 of these babies (2 in front, 2 in back, 1 on top) and this thing are enough to keep anything from getting to 60C. Surprisingly quiet too.

Next machine I will probably opt for water though.

u/Stekkerbox · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Change two things

  • Use dual channel ram. like these

  • Upgrade the CPU to an Ryzen 7 1700. Then you're good to go.

    If you have any more questions, feel free to ask me. Good luck and have fun!
u/Adaevan · 3 pointsr/buildapc
  1. The water cooling fan header can be used for a case fan. I believe the pump fan header can too, but I'm not sure. Keep in mind that your motherboard may treat those headers as PWM controlled or DC voltage controlled, and you may have to change fan speed settings in the BIOS.

  2. See 3.

  3. See 2. Just kidding, see 4.

  4. Easiest way would be to buy a fan splitter. Make sure that, if you have 4 pin PWM case fans, you get a 4 pin fan splitter. If you have a lot of fans, you can consider a fan hub. It can get power from your PSU via SATA or Molex, depending on the fan hub. Plus, if you get a PWM fan hub you can turn non-PWM fans into PWM fans, though all fans connected to the hub will run at the same speed.
u/Professor_Crash · 3 pointsr/PS4

You need a capture device like this

u/ChompsOnTheLoose · 3 pointsr/smashbros

From what I've seen, an Elgato such as this one seems like a good choice. Don't have a clue about capturing Melee though.

Edit: Oh yeah I suppose I saw a Avermedia card that could do both HDMI and component inputs, anyone know anything about that?

u/askerOne · 3 pointsr/smashbros

It depends which card you are buying , there are cheap ones that cost just 30$.Of course their quality isn´t the greatest
Many streamers have one of those 2 :

-> you don´t need a crazy expensive PC either. The most important thing is your upload speed though.

u/Subzer013 · 3 pointsr/okc

GPU and CPU you can buy on amazon that’s pretty basic. I’d get some really good high speed ram because ryzen loves to use that high speed ram for some reason, it runs really well on 3200+ ram.

Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3000MHz C15 Desktop Memory Kit - Black (CMK16GX4M2B3000C15)

Edit: 3000mhz will probably suffice.

u/BabyMonkeyOnPig · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

$94 but here ya go

u/euopm7 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I'm looking to pick up this CMK16GX4M2B3000C15 ram for my b350 plus motherboard however the mobo's QVL list is slightly confusing to me because it lists that specific model number twice, one that's labeled "ver.4.24" that is said to support speeds of 2933 and another that reaches only 2133.

Is it basically a lottery that I'm gonna get a set that will reach anywhere near 3000 MHz or is there a way of knowing beforehand what version I'll receive from Amazon? If I get unlucky and get a pair that can only reach say 2133 will I be able to return it?

Thank you.

u/OneWinged · 3 pointsr/gaming

The two are mutually exclusive.
Do you have a decently-spec'd PC with USB 3.0? If so, I recommend:

That's the one I use. It works really well, has some great options, provides nice, clean 1080p video, but it's pretty rough on system resources.

That's a video I took with the card. Make sure to change the quality selection to 1080p.

u/jellymaster2 · 3 pointsr/smashbros

We use capture cards, they're video capture devices that you either install into a desktop computer(Like the Avermedia LiveGamer HD ) or get a USB one(Such as the Elgato Gamecapture HD ). These devices hook directly into the video output of your WiiU and can record it using software on your computer.

Sm4sh replay files aren't actually video, this is why the WiiU can save so many of them, otherwise the video files would be a decent size. They're basically large text files that tell the game engine what button to press at what time.

u/_Robbie · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

I don't know much about RAM timings. For a Ryzen 2600x build, is it worth the extra $10 to get these c15 Corsair sticks?

EDIT: Mobo is the ASUS X470 ROG Strix Gaming-F

I don't plan to clock to the full 3200hhz anyway so I'm okay with 3000.

u/flytaggart1 · 3 pointsr/roosterteeth

Amazon for 160. Bit pricey, but its the best reviewed one I found.

u/iisriin · 3 pointsr/buildapc

TP-Link Wireless Dual Band PCI Express Adapter (TL-WDN4800)

I use this one. Works perfectly. Never had a signal drop

u/zaco230 · 3 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

Is there really a difference between this Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 X 8GB) DDR4 3200 RAM "for AMD" VS this one?

u/Combatxlemming · 3 pointsr/oculus

Do you mean this one? Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card - Interface USB 3.0 4-Port Express Card Desktop with 15 pin SATA Power Connector, [ Include with A 4pin to 2x15pin Cable + A 15pin to 2x 15pin SATA Y-Cable ]

u/bizzy11 · 3 pointsr/sffpc

People don't know how to read the title lmao. C14S is the best air cooler for the NCase.

If you get:

  • x570 mobo
  • NCase
  • 3700x
  • ram
  • C14S
  • SF600
  • case fans

    You will prolly only be left with like $300ish for the gpu. Maybe a 1660 ti or 2060 super? Might be ok with a SF450 instead of the SF600 depending on your gpu, that would save a bit. Could also opt to get a lower mobo since x570's main draw is the pcie 4.

    Might be able to find better deals come cyber monday/black friday, but buying used would prolly help save more and you wouldn't need to wait for a sale.
u/Dolby_Bypass · 3 pointsr/oculus
u/pyrotechnicmonkey · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I just built a system with the r5 3600 and the stock cooler has been fine even with overclocking to 4.1ghz. This depends if your case has decent airflow. Maybe don't spend the money on a cpu cooler until you test out the stock cooler and determine if its worth the cost. The r5 3600 has a pretty low tdp of 65w and doesn't need crazy coolers like the old fx cpu's this ram is also pretty good for the price. I would rather have corsair than team force unless you really want the rgb

Also you might want to look at this ssd Around the same price but way faster speed. 3gb per second vs 500mbs. Seems like pcie ssd are only a bit more expensive than Sata ssd which is weird as they are way better speed.

u/NotTheLips · 3 pointsr/oculus

One of these will likely solve the issue for you. Assuming it's not a laptop, of course.

u/[deleted] · 3 pointsr/hardwareswap

I personally don't have an extra one. But just advice you can grab one for $23 on amazon used if that's within your budget.

u/Bman854 · 3 pointsr/buildmeapc

No but you could get a PcIE wifi card with while keeping it in your budget.

u/ectopilot · 3 pointsr/conspiracy

Pihole for Raspberry Pi is pretty simple, and straightforward. I'm not a networking guy myself, managed to get it up and running in an hour or two. Just requires a Raspberry Pi kit (I have this one) and a network cable. /r/PiHole is a big help.

u/WormSlayer · 3 pointsr/oculus

Not sure about best, but this is the one Oculus recommend, I have been using it with no issues.

u/Invigilatorr · 3 pointsr/buildapc

TP-Link AC1300 Wireless Dual Band PCI-Express Adapter (Archer T6E)

Excuse the formatting, I'm on mobile atm, I've had this one for a while now and it's delivered great speeds and most importantly it's reliable.

u/A_Nice_Meat_Sauce · 3 pointsr/oculus

I had this same issue -- picked up an X52 Pro a couple weeks ago and it wouldn't play nice with my intel controllers & Windows 7. I'd read that you could use W10's generic drivers we've also read around these parts, Oculus recommends keeping your drivers up to date.

In the end, I bit the bullet and bought one of these. I already had plenty of Oculus certified USB 3 ports I have more! And this card was recommended by them anyway.

I did eventually end up upgrading to W10 anyway last week. It runs quite well and gave me some time to work out any kinks before my Rift arrives. Some people have had a little trouble using the upgrade option instead of a clean install, but mine went fine.

u/Bester2001 · 3 pointsr/computers

The Z77 board should be completely compatible with your CPU the question is HP and other manufacturer have been known ro glue or even sodder CPUs to the boards. Don't know if they still do but they've done it in the past. While your at it get a after market cooler ideally this one it cools the best for almost any price point including lower end Water Cooling systems. And it's one of the quietest. Good luck

u/Skulder · 3 pointsr/computers

You have USB hardware made by VIA, and that's incompatible. You'll need to buy an addon PCI board with USB-3 ports on it.

Something like this - I would suggest the type that has a power plug, so it doesn't draw power for the USB devices through the PCI slot, since not all motherboards live perfectly up to the standards for power requirements.

The board you choose must also have a chipset that is approved by Oculus. Looking at their homepage, it has to use the "Fresco Logic FL1100EX chipset."

Actually, on their support page they link specifically to a card that is approved.


One more thing - notice the choice of words. "The Nvidia GTX 960 meets or exceeds our inimum system requirements."

That means that if it was any slower, it couldn't run at all - but it doesn't meet their recommended requirements, and it's nowhere near their optimal requirements.

So it's not going to run optimally, or even like recommended.

u/DoctorWock · 3 pointsr/cade

Thanks! It came out to around $150, but that's mainly because I got the Raspberry Pi kit on amazon that had the case and other bells and whistles. I'd suggest the Canakit one if you're going with a Raspberry Pi, this eBay seller for cheap buttons and joysticks, and this site for button layouts so you can print it out and drill through it.

u/admiralawesome92 · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I think you may be right about the power issue, but I'm not sure how to check if that's the cause. Both are physical platter drives, both made by WD. Below are links to product pages for the drives (not exact, but very similar).

Drive 1 (external power): amazon link

Drive 2 (usb power, drive with issue): amazon link

Finally, the Pi is powered by a 2.5A wall adapter. I purchased this kit which had the adapter.

u/ProPuke · 3 pointsr/oculus

Are you sure it's running out of power and not usb bandwidth?

If it's bandwidth you might want to split the devices between usb controllers, and possibly connect some of the cameras to usb 2, instead.

Computers tend to have 2 accessible usb controllers - one on the back and one on the front (which are shared by all of the ports attached to them). Each can only support a maximum amount of bandwidth at once. If the cameras are plugged into usb 2 ports they'll run in low data mode and use significantly less, so you may want to plug one of your cameras into a usb 2 port instead, or perhaps attach the headset or a camera onto a front port to spread the load.

The only other cure for bandwidth issues to buy a usb extender card (Oculus officially recommend this one). Buying a hub won't help, as they're still coming from the same controller on your machine and you still have the same bandwidth limits.

Alternatively, if it is just power, then yeah - you'll need a powered hub.

u/ChefBoyBigD · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Cool beans! It's this model by the way!

Let me know if you change your mind

u/PandahOG · 3 pointsr/oculus

Its an USB issue. I know, you have probably tried different usb ports ranging from 2.0 to 3.0. You would switch it and it would work just fine for a few days then you are back to reseating the hdmi plug.

There are 2 solutions:

  1. Buy this and install it into your machine.

  2. Be cheap and buy this

    Now option 2 should not work but it does. I had the same exact problem as you. I tried everything and it got to the point the only other option was buying a usb 3.0 pci e card. However, I had option 2 laying around and realized I needed more usb 3.0 ports for my other stuff so I figured why not try my rift. Its been 3 months and I havent had to reseat the hdmi cord or try different usb ports.

    Only issues i have now is what looks like white static whenever it is dark in the game or loading something, but it is all gone when the game starts. Also, sound. My rift sound will cut off after 30 minutes of playing so I have to re-enable it via sound manager.

    Hope this helps because I know how frustrating it was.
u/jackster1232002 · 3 pointsr/RetroPie

> All i'm really looking for is something that I can plug in and play some old games on for a little while here and there.

You do realize it's not plug and play like the NES classic right? There's still some light software intallation involved with the Rpi. In fact it is illegal to sell/distribute a rpi with preloaded roms.

To answer your original post question, the price of the product is way to high for what you're getting. Taking 5 mins on amazon can get you much cheaper items especially with prime.

I still think this is too expensive, but it's still cheaper than the ebay link:

You just need to source your own controller which you can get here:

Best controller you can buy for $30. Which in total is still cheaper than the ebay kit.

u/dt9779 · 3 pointsr/RetroPie

Yes it is possible, I don't have my pi with me currently but I have hundreds of NES, SNES, game gear, master system, and Genesis roms all saved on my micro SD card with the retropie setup. If you haven't bought your pi yet I would suggest buying the whole package off Amazon, it's what I did and it was helpful.
CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 Complete Starter Kit - 32 GB Edition

u/pak9rabid · 3 pointsr/gaming

Here's my setup:

  • Raspberry Pi 3
  • LibreELEC
  • Kodi Gamestarter addon
  • 8bitdo SFC30 SNES controller(s)

    This allows you to use your Pi not only as a RetroArch machine, but also a general-purpose media center machine running Kodi. Seeing as I have multiple machines like this around the house, I serve up my ROMs and Save Game data off a server via NFS, so that I can play a game on one box, then move to another one and pick up my saved game from there. This is a far better setup than the shit Nintendo is releasing.
u/tinyplantas · 3 pointsr/microgrowery

The monitoring app was inspired by this excellent post by /u/MaryJannieSmith

I am a rails guy so I decided to go against the python grain for raspberry pi and build the app on rails, and I'm very happy with the result.

You can find the code here:

I'll do my best to help anyone get this setup locally, but be warned that it took me a lot of trial and error. Setup instructions can be found in the readme.

As for parts, I went with the raspberry pi 3 canakit, standard raspberry pi 5mp camera board, and the uxcell temperature and humidity monitor.

u/dragontology · 3 pointsr/gadgets

This is almost literally what I'm building tomorrow. This is the Pi kit I'm getting. It comes with a case, power supply, and heat spreaders for the Pi's chips (how important are these?). I already have the exact controller in the Arse article, or one that looks just like it, and I have a couple extra HDMI cables around. I don't have an extra microSD card, so I'm buying a 128GB one, and trading my wife for her 64GB model. I don't think I even need 64GB, not for RetroPie. I might put a couple PS1 games on it, depending on how well they can run. But I need more buttons than that controller offers, so it will mainly be for NES/Super NES/Genesis games. And then mainly the first two. Never was a big Genesis player, but ToeJam & Earl, Sonic, Altered Beast, Golden Axe, Phantasy Star... there are some real classics there. $50 for that kit makes it $10 less than the NES Classic... which was never sold here (middle of nowhere, NC).

For beginners (i.e. you have nothing yet), start with this one. It's $70, but it has a 32GB memory card and an HDMI cable, plus a case, the Pi, and a power supply. Oh and a microSD card to USB converter. For microSD card use I would actually recommend getting a USB 3.0 card reader. They're not much. And then you just need a controller.

I don't mean to imply I am not a beginner myself — I have never done this before. But I've played with Linux, I've modded Android (ran custom ROMs, firmware, and rooted four different Android phones by three manufacturers). I also build computers, though I'm only on my fourth built PC in 13 years. I'm kind of a little wet behind the ears, but I have some experience. I don't think you need that much to actually install and set up a RetroPie kit, but it helps to understand what is going on behind the scenes, in case anything goes wrong. And of course any seasoned geek will tell you, Google is your best friend, and from there, threads on Reddit, StackExchange, and Tom's Hardware are some of the best resources. Those are the search results I usually click on, in any case.

Also, not affiliated with CanaKit. I'm pretty sure theirs are the Pi kits RetroPie recommends. Or maybe it was a guide I saw. And then even before, looking to buy a Pi, I saw them on Amazon. There is another Pi kit company and their prices seem comparable, but they don't appear to have the full $70 kit (I may be wrong!), just the $50 case/power/Pi starter kit. I'm sure they're both (that brand and CanaKit) fine as long as the Pi itself is. The rest is probably just standard off-the-shelf stuff.

u/Deep0d0 · 3 pointsr/hackintosh

If you don't want to get a whole new Mobo, you can just get a USB audio dongle. Sabrent makes one for cheap -

u/TheBossMan5000 · 3 pointsr/gaming

RetroPie has disclaimers in the software saying it's illegal to sell their software on a homemade device, especially with pre-loaded ROMs, just build one for yourself, you can do it for $80, I built one yesterday. This kit has everything you'll need to make your own home retro console in a couple hours. No tools required

u/Alfonzo9000 · 3 pointsr/RetroPie

I'd buy a Cana Kit since it has everything you'd need to have a complete pie.
That's the most full featured Pi3 kit they have but there are other more affordable options.

There are tons of tutorials online but I suggest you look up ETA Prime on YouTube because he helped me a lot with setting up Emulation Station and getting tons of games on my Pi.

As for controllers, the wired iBuffalo ones are great but if budget concerns aren't an issue then get the 8Bitdo SNES30. It's a Bluetooth SNES controller with a 1 to 1 look and feel. It's pricey but you really won't regret it.

Good luck and have fun! Hope she enjoys it!

Edit: As a side note you want to invest in a case with a fan! There are ones that look like a tiny NES or SNES and seem neat but have next to no ventilation so your pi WILL overheat. I made this mistake and wasted $20.

u/MrButtholePoopy · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/dasiffy · 3 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

generally speaking... usb wifi dongle suck. (range)

If you can afford it, get a pci card instead.

TP-Link TL-WN881ND 802.11b/g/n $21CAD

if you want to future proof....

D-Link DWA-582 802.11a/b/g/n/ac $40CAD

u/coumarin · 3 pointsr/linuxadmin

I use hostapd with a TPLink PCI-Express card on one of servers (Debian) for my office wireless network. This is, of course, with routing enabled. Performance has been stellar. The machine in question has a Sandy-Bridge Xeon, and does a bunch of other things as well including being a KVM host.


01:00.0 Network controller: Atheros Communications Inc. AR9287 Wireless Network Adapter (PCI-Express) (rev 01)

cat /etc/hostapd/hostapd.conf:


There's also this delightful script that sits in /etc/init.d/hostapd and which enables hostapd to run flawlessly as a system service. I find it extremely valuable to be able to be able to configure and manage my wireless AP in exactly the same way that I would any other Linux-based service.

u/gurg2k1 · 3 pointsr/RetroPie

I just bought this one:

It was cheaper than buying the parts individually. I also had to purchase a controller seperately

u/MiniMaelk04 · 3 pointsr/beatsaber

Did you resolve this? I'm having the exact same poblem. Dual vibration works fine in Superhot.

I'm on Rift CV1. Mobo is MSI B450 Tomahawk Max.


I finally solved the problem by installing an internal PCIe USB extension card. I went for the Inateck one that Oculus recommends. Don't forget to plug in the SATA power cable or it won't work. Had me scratching my head for a bit.

u/Iamnotyourhero · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Yeah unfortunately there's really not a lot out there. I found this Puget one that looks like it would snap if I tried using it with my 980Ti, and this one which I think is fugly, and probably also wont fit.

u/giantfood · 3 pointsr/nvidia
u/Excal2 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Probably because there are plenty of mATX cases that only have two PCI-e slots in the back of the case. It'd be unwise to exclude tiny case builders and HTPC builders from an enthusiast market.

You could try something like this if you're having sag issues:

u/AMP_US · 3 pointsr/buildapc
u/VuppesaurusRex · 3 pointsr/buildapc

A little sag is normal and shouldn't be anything to worry about. However you could pick something like the Atlas Graphics Card Brace to prop it up, assuming you have some empty bays and clearance beneath your card. But in general, it's not necessary.

u/SinisterHumanoid · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Could always machine/3D print a brace similar to the card supports that you screw in with the thumb screws.

the S340 has a shroud you could rest the mount on with support beams.

As for the CM bracket, your best bet is to see if you return it if it doesn't work out at all for you.

u/cowboybilocas · 3 pointsr/battlestations
u/Wulf6489 · 3 pointsr/hardwareswap
u/hokie_high · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

GTX 1050 Ti is the best in that price range but for a few extra bucks you'd be better off with a RX 470.

If you're willing to go up to $200 you can get a GTX 1060 or RX 480 which are MUCH better cards.

u/crackers10 · 3 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

I bought this one a few weeks ago
its been working well, easily keeps up with my 150/150 fiber internet through a wall

u/odie420 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

If it is a desktop I am going to suggest an internal card if you have open slots. I have found that USB adapters are unreliable. And again this is just my experience, I have had two of them overheat on me with heavy use. EX. Downloading something while streaming YouTube has caused mine to overheat and be unrecognizable by the system.

I would suggest something like this.

Oh and make sure you have either a PCIe or a PCI slot and the corresponding card for it.

u/MonkeyIslandThreep · 3 pointsr/nintendo

I agree. Speaking of which, does RetroPi support save states? Almost to the point where I think it'd be worth it to just make my own:

Little more expensive, but it'd be PS Classic, SNES Classic, NES Classic and more all in one...

u/MulYut · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

I was looking at the Amazon R5 1600 w/ cooler and the Asus Prime b350 w/ Assassins Creed but would this be a much better deal or no?

u/GearsPoweredFool · 3 pointsr/virtualreality

If you're looking to save as much money and pull it off as "playable" you're probably looking at replacing the fx6300 with an 8350 + hope you have a PCI-E slot for a USB 3.0 card.

If you have the expansion slot you can do this - 75 Euros - 20 Euros - 250 Euros.

I'd still recommend getting out of the AM3 CPUs and upgrading, but understand budget constraints suck!

u/bl4ckout31 · 3 pointsr/Amd

From : R5 1600 : 235 €

i5 6600k : 260 €

u/NintendoManiac64 · 3 pointsr/AyyMD

It is not.


200GE: Microcenter ($40) vs Amazon ($58)

2200G: Microcenter ($60) vs Amazon ($78)

1600: Microcenter ($80) vs Amazon ($101)

2700: Microcenter ($130) vs Amazon ($160)

3600X: Microcenter ($200) vs Amazon ($235)

3700X: Microcenter ($330) vs Amazon ($355)

2950X: Microcenter ($600) vs Amazon ($622)

2970WX: Microcenter ($800) vs Amazon ($915)

(this list is not exhastive but rather is to give an idea of prices across the entire price range)


And Microcenter lets you save a farther $30 when bundling with a motherboard.

u/subarutim · 3 pointsr/oculus

No, you need an expansion card. This is the one that's recommended. I purchased it and all my USB problems were solved. A hub is just a splitter. The expansion card will give you a whole new USB bus with the bandwidth you'll need.

u/aForgedPiston · 3 pointsr/buildapc

The only thing I would change is to upgrade the CPU to say a R5 1600, which are going pretty cheap these days. The 2200G is redundant because you have dedicated graphics, and a poor choice in general withers only 4 cores


u/taco_fisher · 3 pointsr/buildapc
u/CrossedZebra · 3 pointsr/techsupport

Something like this -

is probably better and more reliable/stable for long term use and for gaming, than a USB solution. Just double check you have a free pcie expansion slot.

u/JimJamieJames · 3 pointsr/hardwareswap

>Had some offers but none went through so dropped down a bit

Likely because it's $118 on Amazon right now? Might take more to entice people to buy from an individual since Amazon has an excellent return policy and free shipping as most people have Prime. Good luck!

u/Cover25 · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

Same price on Amazon with infinitely better CS/Shipping

u/BlamelessVestalsLot · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I use the (TP-LINK TL-WN881ND)[] and the (Edimax EW-7811Un)[]. I never had any problem with them

u/TheAnswerIsNaR · 3 pointsr/buildapc

This is good, depending what your ram speed is currently as it's not listed. But if the mobo supports a 3600mhz ram, try to find that if not 3200mhz is fine. And GPU prices will probably change once your ready to buy, so dont worry until your there.

Edit: mobo -


Total of $195, all from amazon

u/Hotrian · 3 pointsr/HTCVive

If you are having controller pairing issues, there's a good chance your motherboard's USB chipset isn't up to par. You'd be surprised how many people are having USB issues with their brand new top of the line motherboards. Did you try getting the Inateck PCI-Express USB Controller as recommended by Valve? I would first try every USB port on your system to see if you can find one that works. Be sure to close SteamVR, swap ports, wait for drivers to finish installing, then boot up SteamVR again and see if it works. I've found that several of my USB ports work better for the Vive than others, and I assume it is due to the USB bandwidth on that chipset, which varies depending on which other USB devices I have plugged into that same line on different ports.

  • Link to SteamVR Troubleshooting Article where Valve endorses the Inateck 2-Port USB3.0 PCI-Express Card, it's found under Headset > New USB PCI-Express Card.

  • Link to Inateck 2-Port USB3.0 PCI-Express Card on Amazon, it is currently $18.99. Also link to the 5 port version that I picked up and I'm hoping works just as well :).

    One thing to keep in mind is that the Inateck PCI-Express controller does require a SATA power cable from your Power Supply, though the Inateck PCI-Express controller does come with a Molex-To-SATA adapter and a SATA-Y-Splitter so you need either a Molex power cable or a SATA extension cable if you don't have a spare SATA power cable.
u/DeusVult1095AD · 3 pointsr/buildapc

If you want to upgrade something, your CPU is the biggest upgrade. But that would require a new motherboard and ram as well. So if you're happy with your current performance and don't get framerates drops just keep your current build.

>I don't have wireless and that is one thing I know I want to add. I suppose my question is: are any of the specs noticeably outdated and need to be upgraded?

You should be able to add a wireless card to your PC no problem, you just need an open PCIe slot.


u/tallbeerlover · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

If you can plug in using a wire, I recommend doing so, as it is faster and more stable. You can pick your color/length for solid price here.

If you're in a situation where you can't plug into your router/modem, then wifi is your next choice. Something like this will work just fine, but if you're comfortable attaching a card to your motherboard, this will provide a stronger and more reliable experience.

u/Mathematicu5 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

What the person said above and below. I would not recommend using just any brands for PSU. It's pretty much the foundation of your whole PSU. You don't want your whole system to go haywire because of your PSU.

I had the 500 PSU EVGA. I recently upgraded 3 months ago. It's wonderful!

u/puckbeaverton · 3 pointsr/AskMen

lol @ XBone. Sounds like the name of a villain in a 90s action movie.

Here's the deal. You can go the console route, and that's fine. But you're going to spend a lot more money in the long run.

You buy a PS4, an xbox one, a switch, whatever. Call it $400. OK. Cool. You buy games for it. $40, $30, $50. Sweet. Controllers. $50 $50 $50... Shit it's getting expensive. New games come out. Why the fuck are they $60 a piece? Holy shit. You wait a while. Jesus they only went down to $55? FFFFFFUUUUUU I wanna playyyyyyy.... Why aren't there more games and cheaper games? Granted, you do have the nice option to buy classic games on PSN and for Switch. Ugh.....fine, I'll shell out for Overwatch. Fine. I'll shell out for Destiny 2. Fuuuuck that was like $120. What....what the fuck is this? PS5? Nintendo Switch2?


BUT. Let me play out that scenario for you on a PC.

You get:

Total cost: $570 US, or roughly what you'd spend on your console and a few controllers.

BUT, now you have the entire library of all the computer games ever made at your disposal. Not to mention that, but you've got emulators to play all those classics that you could have bought on the PSN/Switch.

And instead of paying $60 every time a new game comes out, you look at what came out about 6 months ago. You put it on your steam wishlist. You get an email someday soon that says "an item on your wishlist is on sale."

Oh holy shit. Doom is $16. Holy fuck, it's the steam summer sale. Games are 75% off, 80% off....they're basically giving them away.

Then you sign up for Humble Bundle.

Holy shit. You can get Alien Isolation for $5.

These are 5 star games we're talking here. Not to mention you get like 10 no names to go with it. Hell, you're probably going to spend hours playing some of those.

Pretty soon you've got 100+ games that you may have spent a few hundred dollars on. Things are great, but you decide hey, I would LIKE to have a little more FPS on these. So you order yourself a new GT 1080, and sell your 1050 on ebay making back about $50. Later on down the line you decide to upgrade the processory, maybe add a stick of ram later. Now you got a stew goin. But you don't have to, that rig will play almost anything (though possibly on lower visual settings)

PC is just more budget friendly in my opinion. You never have to just throw the whole thing away and get a new one. You can always replace components and upgrade things individually. There's never new platforms to learn, get used to. You can always use your same old controller, and you can always play your old games. In my view, buying consoles is basically throwing away money because you have to buy so much hardware EVERY TIME they decide to release a new console.

There's give and take to it. I just like the stability and deep discounts I get from Steam, GOG, and Humble Bundle. I wouldn't even game if it wasn't this cheap.

u/tehRandomAccount · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

In the top right corner of your linked page, PCPartPicker gives a rough estimation of 363W. For under £50 I'd get this.

u/dweller_12 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/Drewology · 3 pointsr/buildapc

With that power supply, you're really limiting yourself.
You need to get a cheap, reliable 500W PSU. Something like the EVGA W1 is your friend in this realm.

You're CPU is a real limiting factor. Ideally, you want an i5, which you can buy an i5-3550 or an i5-3570, but those will take up the rest of your budget. If you were buying a new CPU, I would recommend getting a new motherboard as well (full system upgrade to Skylake). That's too much as it's a new CPU, mobo and new DDR4 RAM.

Stick with the CPU for now and upgrade the GPU.

Head over to /r/hardwareswap and find a used 280, 280X, 290, 290X. Here's a 290X for $240, but it might be out of your price range, since you need to buy the $40 PSU first. You can find 280X for $120-$140. A 290 is around $175-$200 and a 290X is between $200-$240 on that subreddit.

With that in mind, I would recommend making a post on /r/hardwareswap looking for a 500W PSU for $25 shipped and a 290 for $170 shipped. You should find a PSU for that price, but might be hard pressed on the 290 and might need to settle for a 280X for around $140 shipped.

Last, but not least, if you get an SSD (say a 128GB), you install your Windows on it and maybe some of your games. You should notice a big speed boost from reduced loading times.

u/notverycreative1 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

That seems like a decent card honestly, try updating your drivers and router firmware before you buy a new one. Note that your neighbors setting up their own routers can impact your signal quality, so consider changing what channel your router uses. Microwave ovens and blenders also destroy 2.4 GHz communications while they're on, so keep that in mind.

Here's the one I use. It's served me well over the past year or so, except when my ISP set me up with a bizarre router firmware that only worked with certain, seemingly randomly-selected cards.

u/Xintros · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

> Is now the right time to buy a PC or should I wait because new cards are coming out and they will lead to price drops? But how long until those price drops will even come into effect?

I would wait slightly, prices of the older cards will not fall (in the used market they will. But new cards, not so much.) so just wait for the price gouging of the new cards to stop and pick up one of those.

> Also, when building a PC what parts do I need to connect to Internet/Wi-Fi? A wireless network adapter? Or do motherboards come equipped with being able to connect to WiFi? And what do you look for when choosing a wireless network adapter if you need them?

Some motherboards do come with Wi-FI adapters built in, but these are typically in a price range that it's not worth it to most of us. If wifi if your only choice your best bet is to get a PCI express Wifi adapter. Something like this:
When you're shopping just make sure the adapter supports the best wifi standard your home router/AP does (AC, N, etc)

> Finally, when looking at Graphics cards, e.g. the GeForce GTX 1070, I saw they were sold by various manufacturers like EVGA, Zotac, MSI etc. Does it matter which manufacturer you buy from (apart from price differences)? Does it affect performance or anything of the card or can I just relax and buy from any company?

There are differences in each of the cards from the companies. You will want to read reviews for the cards you may be interested in. One card may run quieter than the others, one may have higher clocks and therefor perform better.

u/krazykellerxkid · 3 pointsr/Fallout

I haven’t played FO4 with a PS4 controller on PC, but I use THIS for my DualShock 4 for all my PC games and it works amazing. I also use DS4Windows as the software.

I think I bought my card for $25 on eBay so I know you an find it cheaper than what’s in the link :)

u/brigaid · 3 pointsr/buildapc

With the modeling and simulations, have you looked at 16GB of ram? I think it would still fit within your budget with that addition unless you already know the capabilities of your work programs.

Also, I highly recommend the TP-Link TL-WDN4800 over any other pci-e wi-fi card. I have two, in my w8.1 desktop and linux htpc, that do a fantastic job. The extra cost was definitely worth it in that category for good reception (three antennas) and great speed.

u/Confirmed_Lurker · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

I use this:

Works well for me. It used to be cheaper though. I bought it for $36.50 just over a year ago.

u/ThreeBelugas · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Get this, it's pcie wireless ac with Bluetooth, it's a bargain at $33.

u/sk9592 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If you think you might use a wireless adaptor from time to time, a $30-40 one is more than adequate. Something such as this:

However, if you have access to an ethernet port near the desktop, spend any amount of money on wireless is a waste.

u/DJPortlane · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I don't know much about computers--I just want to play Cities: Skylines. Can I upgrade my current computer, and is it worth it? I have an HP Pavilion H8-1230 with an Nvidia GT 620. If I buy a GTX 960 and this power supply can I just swap them out? Will this work? How do I find out whether the GPU will fit on this motherboard? Thanks.

u/1bc29b36f623ba82aaf6 · 2 pointsr/pcgamingtechsupport

You could use a splitter but that does not account for the internals of your headsets being quite different to the amplifier built in to your speakers. Usually this causes volume imbalance, which you could probably fix a bit with the volume knob on your speakers but it's not the best. Speakers with a headphone connector would be the best for that part but that won't fix the microphone part.

The StarTech splitter that was linked only works for devices with a TRRS socket (normally you only have TRS, so one Ring in the middle, RR has double rings).

If you want to be sure that won't break shit you'd need to post the motherboard/audiodevice/case -model depending on where this singular output is on your PC. That way we could try to see if it has a TRRS connector instead of just TRS.

You could also get a DAC (Digital Audio Converter) which would take up an USB port. Most have both audio out and microphone in. Unfortunately this installs as a separate 'sound card' and different audio device so you'd need to set up preferences for 'playback' and 'communications'.

Also some programs (even Skype goddammit) ignore the OS settings for which audio device is active/preferred so it would require some tinkering from time to time when you get a DAC.

Edit: example of a DAC this one was linked from the StarTech splitter as a related product. I can't vouch for this particular product etc. or that is even a good price. Just so you can see what it would look like.

u/sheepblankett · 2 pointsr/homelab

EVGA 500 W1, 80+ WHITE 500W, 3 Year Warranty, Power Supply 100-W1-0500-KR, Black

The case has vents right where the psu exhaust is so no issues.

u/ProgressoSoupCan · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I used to have the same 710 before I switched to a 1060, you will need a new psu. I would recommend this one , it is cheap and stays at 500w.

u/funbob · 2 pointsr/amateurradio

Any card would work fine. I'd steer clear of the headphone amps, might be too much signal and you'd need to end up attenuating it.

Even a cheapie USB sound card would get the job done just fine.

u/boomboomboy123 · 2 pointsr/Beatmatch

Nab yourself one of these. With it, you can separate the output and the headphone cues.

u/onliandone · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

Skylines is not only cpu heavy, it is also not properly multithreaded. So you gain nothing from getting more than ~2 cores. But Anno 1800 is, as well as most editing software. Still, with a focus on this you should not get more than the Rzyen 5 3600. Cheaper than the 3700X you got recommended so far, strong cores and enough of them to also run games like Anno 1800 just fine. And you definitely want Ryzen 3000 (or Intel) here, since you need strong cpu cores for Skylines (the 3600 will stomp the 2700X in that game).

Skylines does not need a particularly strong gpu, but for high settings in Anno you can't get enough gpu power. So don't go too low there, 1660 Ti would be my lower limit with your budget.

pc-kombo shared list

CPU | AMD Ryzen 5 3600 | $199.00 @ B&H
Motherboard | Gigabyte X570 Gaming X | $169.99 @
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX Series schwarz DDR4-3200, CL16 - 16 GB Kit (16 GB) | $84.99 @ newegg
SSD | Western Digital Blue 3D (500 GB) | $60.03 @
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 1660 Ti XC Gaming | $269.99 @
Case | Fractal Design Focus G Midi-Tower - schwarz Window | $49.99 @ newegg
Power Supply | Seasonic FOCUS 550 GOLD (550 W) | $69.90 @
Operating System | Windows 10 Home 64-bit EN | $99.99 @
| Total | $1012.87
| Generated by pc-kombo 12.07.2019 |

I you really need wifi you can add it via a wifi card like But cable is always better.

u/jesus0nadinosaur · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

If I were you I would get an evga 500 watt has the two 6+2 vga connectors you need for about 40$

u/needabuildplz · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

What would be the advantage of the item listed in the title over the GC-WB867D-I

Am I missing something? The gigabyte model even has Bluetooth recognition whereas the AC1900 does not

u/Xcodist · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Wireless card = PCIe card

Wireless adapter = USB dongle

That being said, I use a dare I say it wireless PCIe card to game. I used a USB dongle in the past. Sure they're slightly cheaper but not worth it overall (performance and aesthetic wise). I'd recommend [this one](Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I REV Bluetooth 4.2/Wireless AC/B/G/N Band Dual Frequency 2.4Ghz/5.8Ghz Expansion Card from amazon.

u/largepanda · 2 pointsr/buildapc

What mainly matters is the chipset. Asus, Gigabyte, TP-Link, etc aren't making their own chips; they're buying them from another company. Intel and Qualcomm Atheros are excellent, Realtek and MediaTek/Ralink are pretty good, and Broadcom is meh or bad depending on the chip.

The Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I is (in my opinion) the best option, and uses an excellent Intel wireless chipset. If you're looking to spend even more than that, just figure out a way to run an ethernet cable bloody hell.

u/CkPhX · 2 pointsr/Fighters

Yes, a 3.5mm to USB adapter makes it work. This is the one that I bought awhile ago and I've been using my SteelSeries SiberiaV2's on my PS4 for awhile. You're just going to have to go into sound device options to set up how you want it (I have all the sound going through to the headset including party chat stuff).

u/Crosive · 2 pointsr/buildapc

that would be a decent system. with the options to expand to an i7 later on if thats what you need.

the 450w psu would be close I think. I would perhaps go to a 500w just to be safe, and those are fairly cheap

u/6x9equals42 · 2 pointsr/oculus

It probably won't because those share bandwidth between ports. If you have a spare PCI-E slot this will work: (the 5 port version)

u/flunky_the_majestic · 2 pointsr/k12sysadmin

I have never had a problem with any USB audio adapter on Chromebook, and have used several. Most recently, we used this one:

But yours probably would be fine, too. It seems USB audio must be pretty standard the way HID devices are.

u/OmoideAeternum · 2 pointsr/headphones

I recently came into a situation like this when switching from my HyperX Cloud IIs to audiophile-level headphones.

I solved my problem by buying a cheap condenser microphone + boom stand + usb audio adapter and then plugging my headphones in separately.

Not only did I end up with better sound quality, I ended up with better microphone quality than both a gaming headset and the ModMic / BoomPro.

u/MrMallow · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I going with a red and black theme, not important but figured I would mention it. I was given this case, power supply, 4 1tb seagates, and a bunch of red LED corsair fans from a friend to "start me off".

EDIT: this is the model of the PS

EDIT2: so everyone seems to be pushing for the cheaper Mobo and the better processor, this doesn't make sense to me at all and has me really confused. I was always taught (granted my knowledge is outdated) that getting the better Mobo is the best thing you can do because things like CPUs and Cards can always be updated and switched out later on. Isnt the Mobo the backbone of the build? why would you want to skimp in the heart of the PC?

u/lastwraith · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Sorry for the super-delayed got in the way.

In looking for stuff compatible with the 4870 series, it looks like it may be a mid-tower with a standard ATX power supply. If so, you can use just about any power supply you like. I would get something local that you can return just in case they did put something proprietary that you can't easily replace (doesn't look like it though). People online seemed to have a 250-300W PSU in theirs by default may be able to get away with that using just power adapters if your graphics card is reasonably efficient.

I haven't built a machine in a while (I'll be honest). But back in the day, FSP (Fortron Source) and Seasonic made some of the best PSUs you could get. I think FSP sold some as PowerMan. Antec, Corsair, EVGA, etc were good value-for-dollar options as well.
I would just make sure to do your research on whatever particular models are available nearby within your budget and then get something based on that. If you need a starting point though, something like this Tom's article should be decent.,4229.html

If I were to order something online, this one seems like a decent option.
Tons of reviews, lots of connectors, 40A on the 12V rail, and a good warranty from a known company.

u/EchoErik · 2 pointsr/microphones

Condenser Microphones need power to function. The audio port on your motherboard does not give nearly enough. The microphone will work much better and be less noisy with more power. You can either use a USB sound card to give the mic 5V of power or get a 48V phantom power supply to maximize your performance.
I got this USB Soundcard and this Power Supply. I use both together and It sounds great. The microphone also works alright with just the USB card. hope it helps. p.s. I have the same mic.

u/Literati · 2 pointsr/tf2

Dude, I was in the same situation as you! You might want to get one of these.

I picked one up when my built-in Microphone wasn't working on my Windows partition, but couldn't plug in my headset since it had dual audio in/out jacks.

You're the same Rae who plays on Reddit West, right? I don't know if you're near LA, but if you decide on getting a decent headset and want that adapter, we can meet up somewhere public and I can give you mine for 10 bucks; that way I get rid of something I don't need and you get something you do. :D

u/Daedus · 2 pointsr/pcgaming

You don't have to spend an arm and a leg on a PSU to get one that isn't going to completely fail you or damage your other, more expensive parts. Amazon has the EVGA 500w for $37.48. It's a low-cost option that won't damage the goods. Check the JonnyGuru site for reliable reviews on power supplies and see for yourself.

u/zoredache · 2 pointsr/computers

You could always buy a USB sound adapter, then just disable the onboard soundcard and use the USB sound interface.



    If you have a spare USB port, then this method will allow you to regain function without having to solder or anything.
u/Kurosaku · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Do you have stock cooler/radiator? is so I would look into upgrading. This one is good one Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO for budget and best on market right now. As for thermal paster Here is a pretty good one ARCTIC MX-4 Thermal Compound Paste

The thermal paste goes on top of your CPU when you fix your radiator/cooler, here is a good video on how,

u/asthingsgo · 2 pointsr/buildapc

i agree with above. This is also a favorite of mine, i've done 3 builds with these and they work great.

u/cleesus · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Let me first say im not an expert in Air coolers for cpus, I have always used All in one(AIO) water coolers. AIO are definitely more expensive, but easier to install, have better cooling ability, but can be louder than Air coolers.

Air coolers tend to have better price/performance and are cheaper but tend to be harder to install.

These two below are two of the most popular due to price/performance so they are worth looking at on the AUS side of things to.

This article also has some good info on both types and good suggestions at different price points,4181.html

The only other thing would be to try and get a EVGA G series psu or a Seasonic G series(What i have, caught it on sale tho). If you cant find one of them Corsair makes some cool ones too. You want to get a Bronze 80 rated PSU at the very least. They are one of the most important parts of the pc and one going bad can cause damage or a lot of instability once your gpu/cpu starts kicking in.

Im not familar with the cases you choose but its important to look at the manufacturers website of the case to see how much clearance each case provides for air coolers since they can be big as hell.

That all being said I think the UMART build is the best out of the three with the PC CASE GEAR coming in second.

The UMART is only $100 AUS more than the others according to the image but with that build you get better performance with the ability to overclock later down the line if you need more power eventually.
Plus you get slightly faster ram so overall it looks better.

Remember that you can upgrade to a better case, GPU or cpu fan etc down the line if you outgrow your current selection but the CPU/PSU, and Motherboard will be fine for a lot of years so its worth spending a little more on them now.

Also sheesh man those AUS prices are no joke, that 470 would only be around $160-180 in the states

u/MiamiFFA · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I would recommend the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo. This is a very good cpu cooler and is reasonably quiet.

Edit: What is your current cpu cooler?

u/hiyalll1 · 2 pointsr/nvidia

Yeah, you should upgrade. I think the overall minimal is 400watts for being the standard but for you, I would just get a 600 watt. You can get some cheap name brand power supplys on Amazon.EVGA 500 W1, 80+ WHITE 500W, 3 Year Warranty, Power Supply 100-W1-0500-KR, Black

If you have money to burn, then go big. But for me, the past 5 years I never had a problem with my 70 dollar psu.

Also this one that is 600 watts. CORSAIR VS Series, VS650, 650 Watt, 80+ White Certified, Non-Modular Power Supply

u/ZeroPaladn · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If you absolutely need WiFi on your new PC, you've got two options:

  • Get a mITX motherboard and use the onboard Wifi that 99% of those boards come with. (my personal choice, mITX makes such cute PCs)

  • Get any other motherboard and add one of these to it, since a ATX or mATX motherboard with built-in WiFi is almost prohibitively expensive.
u/_crucial_ · 2 pointsr/WindowsMR
u/LLamaWithAComma · 2 pointsr/buildapc

hmm it went up in price since i last bought it, here ya go, Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I REV Bluetooth 4.2/Wireless AC/B/G/N Band Dual Frequency 2.4Ghz/5.8Ghz Expansion Card

u/tsdguy · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Would this even work with non SSD type M.2 cards? I don't know.

I agree with /u/techboy317 - return it and buy a PCI card with WiFi and Bluetooth. Here's one that's $40

u/DiogenesLaertys · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

This gigabyte wireless PCIE card is the most recommended product out there. They actually use an intel 8265 wireless card attached to a PCIE card so it works great. Asus makes a slightly cheaper version using their own wireless card too, but the gigabyte is the most recommended on pcpartpicker.

From what I've seen a PCIE expansion card costs about $40, and buying an m.2 card costs about $25 (as long as you have a slot that accepts it on your motherboard). You can cut corners here and there but sticking to intel-based wireless products seems to be the best choice for reliability.

u/dr_jekell · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Laptops usually have a much larger antenna and circuit board as well as having a direct connection to the motherboard & power, alowing for more powerful components to be used as compaired to a compact USB device that is limited to a set power input and connection speed.

If you are able to, I would suggest going to a wired ethernet connection for your computer as it will give you the most stable connection with online games, failing that you could go with an internal WiFi card with an external antenna which would help with the reception problems.

Somthing like this:

u/dumplestilskin · 2 pointsr/buildapc

This is the best budget cooler but it is too tall for many older cases. Something like this will do the job and the price is right.

u/JigglyWiggly_ · 2 pointsr/VFIO

Nope, just run this script from the arch wiki:


shopt -s nullglob<br />
for g in /sys/kernel/iommu_groups/*; do<br />
    echo &quot;IOMMU Group ${g##*/}:&quot;<br />
    for d in $g/devices/*; do<br />
        echo -e &quot;\t$(lspci -nns ${d##*/})&quot;<br />
    done;<br />
done;<br />

My output is below. What you are looking out for is mainly to find at least one USB controller that is in its own group. For my VM I pass the amd usb 3.0 controller(group 20). I then could use the onboard asmedia usb 3.1 controller for my host, but instead I just use a pci express card for that. I use this;psc=1 since it is very stable. The asmedia controller isn't the most stable thing in the world.


IOMMU Group 0:
00:01.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-1fh) PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1452]
IOMMU Group 1:
00:01.1 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) PCIe GPP Bridge [1022:1453]
IOMMU Group 10:
00:08.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-1fh) PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1452]
IOMMU Group 11:
00:08.1 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) Internal PCIe GPP Bridge 0 to Bus B [1022:1454]
IOMMU Group 12:
00:14.0 SMBus [0c05]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] FCH SMBus Controller [1022:790b] (rev 59)
00:14.3 ISA bridge [0601]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] FCH LPC Bridge [1022:790e] (rev 51)
IOMMU Group 13:
00:18.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) Data Fabric: Device 18h; Function 0 [1022:1460]
00:18.1 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) Data Fabric: Device 18h; Function 1 [1022:1461]
00:18.2 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) Data Fabric: Device 18h; Function 2 [1022:1462]
00:18.3 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) Data Fabric: Device 18h; Function 3 [1022:1463]
00:18.4 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) Data Fabric: Device 18h; Function 4 [1022:1464]
00:18.5 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) Data Fabric: Device 18h; Function 5 [1022:1465]
00:18.6 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) Data Fabric: Device 18h; Function 6 [1022:1466]
00:18.7 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) Data Fabric: Device 18h; Function 7 [1022:1467]
IOMMU Group 14:
01:00.0 Non-Volatile memory controller [0108]: Phison Electronics Corporation E12 NVMe Controller [1987:5012] (rev 01)
IOMMU Group 15:
03:00.0 USB controller [0c03]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Device [1022:43d0] (rev 01)
03:00.1 SATA controller [0106]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] 400 Series Chipset SATA Controller [1022:43c8] (rev 01)
03:00.2 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] 400 Series Chipset PCIe Bridge [1022:43c6] (rev 01)
16:00.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] 400 Series Chipset PCIe Port [1022:43c7] (rev 01)
16:01.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] 400 Series Chipset PCIe Port [1022:43c7] (rev 01)
16:02.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] 400 Series Chipset PCIe Port [1022:43c7] (rev 01)
16:03.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] 400 Series Chipset PCIe Port [1022:43c7] (rev 01)
16:04.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] 400 Series Chipset PCIe Port [1022:43c7] (rev 01)
16:08.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] 400 Series Chipset PCIe Port [1022:43c7] (rev 01)
1b:00.0 USB controller [0c03]: Fresco Logic FL1100 USB 3.0 Host Controller [1b73:1100] (rev 10)
1c:00.0 USB controller [0c03]: ASMedia Technology Inc. ASM1142 USB 3.1 Host Controller [1b21:1242]
IOMMU Group 16:
1d:00.0 VGA compatible controller [0300]: NVIDIA Corporation GP104 [GeForce GTX 1070] [10de:1b81] (rev a1)
1d:00.1 Audio device [0403]: NVIDIA Corporation GP104 High Definition Audio Controller [10de:10f0] (rev a1)
IOMMU Group 17:
1e:00.0 VGA compatible controller [0300]: NVIDIA Corporation GP106 [GeForce GTX 1060 3GB] [10de:1c02] (rev a1)
1e:00.1 Audio device [0403]: NVIDIA Corporation GP106 High Definition Audio Controller [10de:10f1] (rev a1)
IOMMU Group 18:
1f:00.0 Non-Essential Instrumentation [1300]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Zeppelin/Raven/Raven2 PCIe Dummy Function [1022:145a]
IOMMU Group 19:
1f:00.2 Encryption controller [1080]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) Platform Security Processor [1022:1456]
IOMMU Group 2:
00:01.3 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) PCIe GPP Bridge [1022:1453]
IOMMU Group 20:
1f:00.3 USB controller [0c03]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) USB 3.0 Host Controller [1022:145c]
IOMMU Group 21:
20:00.0 Non-Essential Instrumentation [1300]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Zeppelin/Renoir PCIe Dummy Function [1022:1455]
IOMMU Group 22:
20:00.2 SATA controller [0106]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] FCH SATA Controller [AHCI mode] [1022:7901] (rev 51)
IOMMU Group 23:
20:00.3 Audio device [0403]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) HD Audio Controller [1022:1457]
IOMMU Group 3:
00:02.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-1fh) PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1452]
IOMMU Group 4:
00:03.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-1fh) PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1452]
IOMMU Group 5:
00:03.1 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) PCIe GPP Bridge [1022:1453]
IOMMU Group 6:
00:03.2 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) PCIe GPP Bridge [1022:1453]
IOMMU Group 7:
00:04.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-1fh) PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1452]
IOMMU Group 8:
00:07.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-1fh) PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1452]
IOMMU Group 9:
00:07.1 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) Internal PCIe GPP Bridge 0 to Bus B [1022:1454]

u/scswift · 2 pointsr/oculus

Your upgrade looks like it will be way cheaper than mine was.

I got the Rift on sale for $350, but my PC was like 10 years old with only a new SSD in it.

Ended up getting an i5-9600K + MSI Z390 Gaming Edge for $470, 16 GB of RAM, Cooler Master 212 EVO which turned out to be huge and a huge pain in the ass to install (I recommend watching the video on that page that I didn't notice until after I installed the thing with only it's Ikea-like instructions.), but that big fan means it's far quieter than the tiny stock fans processors usually come with. The i5-9600K does not come with a fan either, so I had no choice and this was the most popular one on NewEgg.

Also got myself an MSI Gaming X GTX 1070 used on Ebay for $270. And because it only has one HDMI port, I decided to use that for the RIFT because it was less risky, and got a Displayport to HDMI cable which supports audio for my monitor which has the speakers built in and does not have a Displayport connector. Only afterward while taking my PC apart however did I realize I had the HMDI cable plugged into my old card with a DVI adapter, and the Gaming X has a DVI port as well, so I could have saved the money on the cable. :(

Also at the last minute I had to run out and grab a Corsair 750W power supply because my perfectly good Coolermaster 750W power supply did not have an 8 pin connector for my CPU. Of course, when I got it home it did not have the 4 pin connector and the motherboard has both a 4 pin and 8 pin and I assumed both would be needed, but I gave it a shot and just having the 8 pin was fine. But now I wonder if just having the 4 pin would also have been fine. The damn manual doesn't have a thing to say about it being okay to just use one of them, but being an electrical engineer I have to assume they're both tied to the same rail on the board, so I'm just gaining a bit more copper to lower the voltage drop if I were to connect a 4 pin as well, and the system seems perfectly stable, so perhaps they included the second connector to help with overclocking. I dunno.

Anyway, final tally including the Rift without a third sensor was $1,339.

And if you're wondering why I didn't go with AMD, well, I could have but when I priced it out, I wasn't actually going to save that much. And the Intel seemed like it would perform better with both games and applications and would just be less likely to have any issues like the Vive and its wireless solution do with AMD processors.

Part of the reason the AMD was not much cheaper is the same MSI motherboard would have been more expensive as an AMD variant and while the AMD included a cooler, the Cooler Master one was only $30 and had a bigger fan which meant it would likely be quieter. Though the AMD does run at a lower wattage, so it could be a toss up. All I know is my old PC sounded like a jet engine when I started doing any heavy lifting with 3D graphics, and it was still kinda noisy otherwise, but now its super quiet and even when running 3D apps that MSI card which I specifically chose because it's one of the quietest, was indeed really quiet.

Speaking of the 1070, my god that is a monster of a card! I barely fit it in my case. And my case is a full size tower. But it has extra 3.5" bays down the bottom where I have my hard drives installed and I had to move them down some more to get it to fit and it only barely slid in behind the metal frame of the drive bay.

Only other thing to mention is while I had no problem fitting my two ram sticks on the motherboard, that Cooler Master cooler's fan would probably collide with one of the ram sticks if I were to install four in there. I think the fan can slide up and down on the cooler though, so perhaps as long as you have low profile ram, you could slide it up a smidge or two to make it fit. Something to consider if you think you may eventually want 32 or 64GB of ram.

u/eaterout · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Right?? It's weird, they changed it. The link used to go here. I guess the smaller one is cheaper so that might be why. they're both from the same company.

u/playdeadstudios · 2 pointsr/oculus

Check the FAQ in the sidebar. Most people are suggesting this one :

u/DeltaMikeKilo · 2 pointsr/oculus

It's a Fresco Logic FL1100EX. This is the only card Oculus has apparently tested. Though some users are still reporting issues.

u/MrForeverloud · 2 pointsr/Warframe

Ok, so I hadn't really planned on making this a long response, but here we are with a nice little wall.

TL;DR at the bottom if you don't care about the smaller details.

Turbo is a processor-based function. I used to have a non-K processor and that still turbos. The K model processors also have turbo stats. Overclocking refers to pushing the processor's base speed(in your example: 3.2Ghz) past the manufacturer recommended specs. After overclocking, you can still acheive higher speeds with the Turbo functionality, but it doesn't tend to kick in as often since you already have it overclocked.

K processors have unlocked multipliers which makes overclocking much easier. However, you can still overclock a non-K processor, it is just more difficult, usually less stable, and takes a good bit more technical knowledge since it requires manually adjusting voltages and other settings from the advanced menu on your motherboard(if applicable). With K processors, many newer motherboards(especially higher end ones, gaming ones, etc.) have either a hardware or software(within the BIOS) button/switch which will attempt to automatically calculate a safe and stable operating clock speed above the manufacturer recommended spec.

Depending on your processor and how "well" it overclocks, you may see a large boost in performance. For example, a common budget overclocking CPU(Intel-based) is the Pentium G3258 Anniversary edition. In most cases, you will see a pretty substantial boost to your clock speed(each board and CPU combo will work slightly differently due to each manufacturer's programming). I used to use the above mentioned Pentium CPU until I was able to save up for an i5. IIRC, it's base clock is also 3.2GHz, and with an aftermarket cooler I was able to overclock it to 4.0/4.1GHz using my motherboard's auto-overclock function. With manual tuning, I was able to jump it up to 4.3 and still have it be stable. I now use an i5 4690(non-K) and a water cooler. I have not yet overclocked my i5 since I've had great performance out of it and haven't seen the need to apply any tweaks.

TL;DR, You're kinda right in that Turbo increases clock speed(this is a processor function), but overclocking is actually a separate function related to your motherboard and its power settings.

u/Crimtide · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Just buy a cheap Hyper 212 EVO or something similar, if it can fit in your case.

u/wazero · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

well my friend you just won the golden ticket by living by a micro center. there are so many deals and combinations I can put together for you. here's the first one. get this cpu

with this mother board

this is the ram that is cheapest

Here's the psu

here's the gpu

here's a decent budget case;amp;nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&amp;amp;cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker,%20LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&amp;amp;cm_sp=&amp;amp;AID=10446076&amp;amp;PID=3938566&amp;amp;SID=

all that parts should cost 550 before taxes and rebates, and that's without a windows key.

but you could also just buy a pre-built and put a 470 in it along with a new psu.

this build is 600 before taxes but that includes the windows key. but if you have to wait to get a windows key you can use windows 10 without a key and just deal with the watermark until you can get one but it;s not even that bad. as long as you play in full screen it won't be there.

u/MonkeyMaster64 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Scared shitless of frying my parts so I'm going with this for a PSU:;amp;qid=1457828249&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=500+W
I do think I'll be OCing the G3258, maybe try for 4GhZ.

u/Trey5169 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

&gt; Seems like a unbelievable price to performance return point.

It really is, ever since AMD released Ryzen 1000 series, Intel's been feeling the heat. Well priced products that perform great is always good for competition.

As far as cases, I've been eyeballing this one because it has good cooling, with an acceptable price. Only real drawback is that it doesn't have a slot for an optical disk drive. Coolermaster has one with an ODD, but it isn't sold in the USA.

You may be able to re-use your case, unless it's from a prebuilt computer (particularly Dell / Alienware) your new board should fit in it just fine.

I was going to recommend This mATX case, but decided against it because I don't think your video card will fit. If you've got a stubby / short 1060 it might work, but I wouldn't bet on it.

This case is the cheapest case I can find that I'm confident will fit everything you have. $40ish.

8 GB RAM is what you need if you're gaming. 4 GB will bottleneck. If you get a 2X4 GB combo now, you can upgrade to 16 GB later with an additional 2X4 GB kit. In the meantime, look up how to take advantage of "Dual Channel RAM" on your motherboard. Also, make sure you get 3000mhz RAM, the speed makes a considerable difference on AMD CPUs.

2X4GB (8 GB total): [link] ( You can select 2X8GB (16 total) if you want, but you don't need it for most games now, and if you prefer older games anyhow, it's a waste of your budget.

If you're going to splurge on anything in your new build, I highly recommend it being your PSU, especially since your old PSU likely killed your motherboard. A modular PSU will look much more tidy, since you can unplug cables that you don't need. I personally trust Corsair's RM series, though the lowest wattage (cheapest) one is still $130: Link.

If that's too much, or if your case doesn't have a Window and aesthetics don't matter, and old 500 watt PSU will do fine. 600 watts if you want some breathing room. Keep a look out for anything with a 3-5 year warranty from the manufacturer (look on their website for this info, don't trust Amazon); those are typically built better and are less likely to fail.

This is the cheapest PSU that I'd personally recommend. 500 Watts is fine for what you have, I think 450 watts is pushing on the "too low" side though.

Edit: All my links are ugly, give me a few minutes to tidy up.

Edit of edit: links tidied up. Also, 450 watts, not $450. (Near the end.)

u/algolen06 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

If you do decide to upgrade to a 970 make sure to upgrade your power supply as well. You are probably going to want a power supply around 500W. something like This should work.

u/Handy_Crabs · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Ah, there is your problem. I did a quick search on that model after cringing, I recognize the Apevia brand (Turbolink). These are extremely cheap PSU's that should not be in a system with a GTX 970, or even an older GTX 680 for that matter. This PSU distributes power accross 2 12v rails at 14amps each...this is not enough for your system at all. Once that GPU gets under any load, it will crash.

One of the things that first time builders often neglect is the need for a solid power supply. After all, this is the device that pumps volts into your beloved components. Why spend 300-400 on a GPU when you are just going to skimp on a decent PSU.

See this link for the sad truth about this PSU.

Apparently, the reviewer's test model only has 1 12v rail, even though it advertises 2. Also, don't think that you have 28amps, total 12v amperage is not as easy as adding the two up. Your PSU probably has closer to 22-24 amps and the GTX 970 requires 28amps on a 500W PSU minimum. This isn't counting the amps required for your CPU as well. This explains the crashes during gameplay.

I'd recommend the following for your build (It has 62amp on a single 12v rail):;amp;qid=1482161389&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;keywords=corsair+psu

Or for cheaper you can get this (40amps on the 12v rail):;amp;qid=1482161485&amp;amp;sr=8-9&amp;amp;keywords=corsair+psu

I think i spent a weekend researching power distribution after my first build had the same issues.

u/Moyer_guy · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If you buy a used one make sure it has some sort of quality certification. Something like a "80 plus bronze" just as an example.


To be honest though new power supplies are not expensive but they are something you do NOT want to cheap out on. It's the source of power for ALL of the parts in your computer and a shitty power supply can ruin everything. Something like [this](\_1\_2?keywords=power+supply&amp;amp;qid=1562432520&amp;amp;s=gateway&amp;amp;sr=8-2](;amp;qid=1562432520&amp;amp;s=gateway&amp;amp;sr=8-2) will work for a decent build and has a 80 plus certification. Something like [this](]( I wouldn't touch with a 10 foot pole.

edit: typo

u/WeedNine · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

People complain about costs but I went to electronics recycler in town and took heatsinks from some old computers, with the pump, clear vinyl tubing, and a peice of ABS plastic to mount it all on total cost was $28 CAD for the parts I am using now.

I bought this [kit] ( but the heatsink/fan was not big enough to actually cool the TEC. so I used a bigger one, a CoolerMasterHyper 212 that was free via salvage. I used this pump and here is my heat exchanger that sits in the nutrient solution and simply run salt water through it because the coolant will freeze near the cooling pad it you use regular tapwater. Goes to about -5 C.

u/DZCreeper · 2 pointsr/buildapc

For a pre-built you won't find better value. That i7-4790 is a rare find in a machine below $700. The power supply having not much amperage and the motherboard using a 14 pin connector is annoying but not really a problem. You can get a new power supply + adapter for under $50.

That will support basically any GPU upgrade you want to make.

u/Smalmthegreat · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Great motherboard, but it doesn't have wifi. If you need it you will need to buy a USB or PCIE wireless card. I would recommend this one:

u/zebrastripe665 · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

This one seems good and also gives you Bluetooth. I personally used a $50 Intel wifi/Bluetooth card and I love it.

Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I REV Bluetooth 4.0/Wireless AC/B/G/N Band Dual Frequency 2.4Ghz/5.8Ghz Expansion Card

u/bk20111 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Which of these PCIe wifi/bluetooth cards is better? I just need basic bluetooth/wifi functionality, so does it even matter which one I pick?

This gigabyte card is $34 and released in 2015, and 4 stars;amp;colid=3C4HWUE2979WZ&amp;amp;coliid=I7EYW68E4J3LR

This gigabyte card is $38 and released in 2014, and 4.5 stars.;amp;colid=3C4HWUE2979WZ&amp;amp;coliid=I216B86KN6BR17

Also, with this product I'll be able to sync my ps4 controller to my pc correct? Or will I have to purchase a bluetooth dongle?

u/Froop_Loop · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

This Is the PSU in question. And why should I reconsider the CPU? Can you suggest a better one in a similar price range? Thanks for the help dude.

u/GooberDanger · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Read my post and what I say about Aio coolers. Typically I wouldn't recommend building a custom loop if you're new to pc's. Even aio coolers aren't needed for the average gamer. This is one of the most commonly used aftermarket air coolers, with almost 8k amazon reviews, you know there's something right about it. Something like this would be ideal for a new pc builder.

u/Ugotowned441 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You should definitely look into getting a heatsink/fan for the CPU. I recommend the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO. Great CFM with little noise and fair price.

u/ksb012 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

It’s a network card adapter. Turns a mini itx
WiFi card in to a pci card

Similar to this

Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I REV Bluetooth 4.2/Wireless AC/B/G/N Band Dual Frequency 2.4Ghz/5.8Ghz Expansion Card

u/freakingwilly · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Correct. Specifically for this Wi-Fi card.

u/Ryan05055 · 2 pointsr/arma

Probably. Overclocking with a stock heatsink is a nono. Get this one for only $34.

u/IllNyeTheScienceGuy · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Total noob here. I'm looking to purchase this motherboard for my first build. When I look in the specs, it says there are 4 USB 3.0 ports and 2 USB 2.0 ports. However, for the internal I/O connectors it only lists 1 USB 3.0 header and 2 USB 2.0 headers. Can anyone explain why there's 1 I/O connector for 4 USB 3.0s and 2 for 2 USB 2.0?

Also, I'm looking to have wireless internet capabilities and bluetooth to hook up bluetooth controllers. Would a card like thisdo both of these for me?

u/notaneggspert · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I don't think you can go wrong with the gigabyte one. I have the Rev 3.0 I think and it's served me well although I mostly use Ethernet/Bluetooth not wifi.

Included antenna is magnetic/free standing so you can position it easier/better.

u/nigerson · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You really don't need an over the top Mobo I listed once from amazon that goes for $150(I personally use a gigabyte mobo and find them extremely easy to use for OCing, reliable, and typically less expensive). Also make sure you buy the 4690k i5, not the regular 4690. This will allow you to OC. Also make sure you buy a third-party cooler as the stock one is absolute shit and breaks really easily. And as for SSD I would recommend a 250gb Samsung 850 Evo. I use a Samsung 830(2 years old and still works fantastic) which is blazing fast and this newer generation is even better and more affordable than ever.


CPU cooler:;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1420864015&amp;amp;sr=1-10&amp;amp;keywords=4690k


u/phab3k · 2 pointsr/battlestations

case: Corsair Carbide Series White 500R Mid Tower Computer Case;amp;psc=1

motherboard: MSI Computer Corp. Motherboard ATX DDR3 1333 LGA 1150 Motherboards Z87-G45;amp;psc=1

processor: Intel Core i5-4670K Quad-Core Desktop Processor 3.4 GHZ;amp;psc=1

thermal paste: Arctic Silver 5;amp;psc=1

psu: Cooler Master V1000 - 1000W Power Supply with Fully Modular Cables and 80 PLUS Gold Certification;amp;psc=1

heatsink: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO;amp;psc=1

memory: Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3 1600 MHz;amp;psc=1

fans: Corsair Air Series AF120 Quiet Edition Twin Pack Fan;amp;psc=1

Corsair Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition Single Fan;amp;psc=1

storage: Seagate Desktop HDD 4 TB;amp;psc=1

Samsung Electronics 840 Pro;amp;qid=1382907278&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=samsung+840pro

Seagate Barracuda 3 TB HDD;amp;psc=1

keyboards: CM Storm QuickFire Stealth;amp;psc=1

Ducky Shine II TKL Mechanical Keyboard White LED Backlit (Black Cherry MX);amp;p=12170

mouse: Logitech G9X;amp;qid=1382907692&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=logitech+g9x

hot swap hard drive bay: Plugable USB 3.0 SATA Hard Drive;amp;psc=1

monitor: ViewSonic VX2703MH-LED 27-Inch LED-Lit Monitor;amp;psc=1

sata cables: 18" White SATA 3 III 6 GB/s;amp;psc=1

lighting kit: NZXT CB-LED20-WT 2-Metres Light Sensitivity Sleeved LED Kit;amp;psc=1

u/ferretpaint · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If you are needing dedicated wifi, It performs well for the price. Look into a longer ethernet cable if you can, its worth it over wifi.

I have this one

And I get something like 400mbps up/down which is fine, but the bluetooth has some issues from time to time if I have too many devices connected.

u/Mimtos · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I made one myself. Bought a PCIE wifi adapter off ebay and bought a Intel 9260 wifi chip off Amazon. Saved me 10-15$ plus I knew I had the latest best wifi chip in the market(at the time, now Intel has new wifi chips for wifi 6 called the ax series). The adapters itself don't mean much as long as they work and dissipate heat properly, it's the chip that you wanna look at. This is the most recommended one, but it uses an older Intel 8260 chip. It still is a very reliable chip, my friend has one and has high speeds with no ping spikes. Its main feature is its movable antenna because 90% of the markets wifi cards have antennas that stick out behind the PC. This is very bad as you get a very weak signal, especially on 5ghz(weak penetration signal). The reason I have 3-4 bars instead of 5 is cause I have antennas that stick out the back. Very good adapter though.

u/j-mt · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Here it is with a Thermalright Truespirit 120, which is about 10mm smaller than a 212+. The Hyper T4 is probably a better option.

u/ddengel · 2 pointsr/buildapc

this is the one i always put in new builds. Dual band, bluetooth, fast, reliable. never had a bad thing to say about it.

u/dailymetanoia · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I use a Rosewill N900PCE. It uses the same chipset as the TP-Link WDN4800, but it's about $9-10 cheaper. The main reason I got it was because it was out of the box Hackintosh compatible though. I don't really see the need to spend $80 on a wireless card, but that's just me. If you really want AC compatible, Gigabyte has this one for around $30 on Amazon.

u/landcross · 2 pointsr/buildapc

As already stated, you don't really need an ac protocol for "only" 50Mbit.

But, keep in mind that the AC protocol only works on the 5 GHz band and not the 2.4 GHz band. So, if your router doesn't support using an extra 2.4 ghz (which is very very unlikely), you have to make sure the wifi-card supports 5ghz. That doesn't mean you MUST buy an ac card, because ac is always 5 ghz, but the n protocol can be both. So, just a little tip ;)

I don't know where you live, but maybe this one is a nice in between, between the two cards you proposed :)

u/ManSkirtDude101 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

At that price range you can get a pretty good CPU cooler(comes with thermal paste as well, if you didn't know that btw). Even if you don't have any plan on overclocking you can still get it just for less fan noise. If you don't care about either stock fan should be fine as long as you buy some new thermal paste.

u/nerdthatlift · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Definitely, I agree with his suggestion. You can look up low profile air cooler. I don't know if Hyper 212 Evo would fit, but that cooler is really good and it's fairly cheap.

You can also look into Silenx or Noctura NH-L12

u/senorroboto · 2 pointsr/buildapc

No problem. Also since you're getting an overclocking CPU, I forgot to recommend you an aftermarket CPU cooler.

Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo ($491):

u/hunterman12345 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I have one of these. I am on the otherside of the house to my modem router and this works pretty well.

Its perfectly in your price range.

u/LoveCheeze · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

How about this one or even this?

u/Bobsagetluvr · 2 pointsr/techsupport

This should work for you

Has 2 external USB ports, and a header for Front USB port.

Edit: This one may be better, also cheaper

u/shuddertrix · 2 pointsr/VFIO

This is on BIOS version 1201 (AGESA Kernel is not patched for ACS. IOMMU group separation could use some work. I've worked around this by adding a Fresco Logic PCI-E USB card to my setup; used it previously for VR and now it's working great as dedicated USB ports for a VM. I have WiFi disabled, not sure where it goes. I've also got an NVMe drive (group 21) and GTX 1080 (group 25) passed through with zero problems.

IOMMU Group 0:
00:01.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1482]
IOMMU Group 1:
00:01.1 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse GPP Bridge [1022:1483]
IOMMU Group 10:
00:14.0 SMBus [0c05]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] FCH SMBus Controller [1022:790b] (rev 61)
00:14.3 ISA bridge [0601]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] FCH LPC Bridge [1022:790e] (rev 51)
IOMMU Group 11:
00:18.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Matisse Device 24: Function 0 [1022:1440]
00:18.1 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Matisse Device 24: Function 1 [1022:1441]
00:18.2 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Matisse Device 24: Function 2 [1022:1442]
00:18.3 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Matisse Device 24: Function 3 [1022:1443]
00:18.4 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Matisse Device 24: Function 4 [1022:1444]
00:18.5 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Matisse Device 24: Function 5 [1022:1445]
00:18.6 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Matisse Device 24: Function 6 [1022:1446]
00:18.7 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Matisse Device 24: Function 7 [1022:1447]
IOMMU Group 12:
01:00.0 Non-Volatile memory controller [0108]: Samsung Electronics Co Ltd NVMe SSD Controller SM951/PM951 [144d:a802] (rev 01)
IOMMU Group 13:
02:00.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Device [1022:57ad]
IOMMU Group 14:
03:01.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Device [1022:57a3]
IOMMU Group 15:
03:02.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Device [1022:57a3]
IOMMU Group 16:
03:03.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Device [1022:57a3]
IOMMU Group 17:
03:05.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Device [1022:57a3]
IOMMU Group 18:
03:08.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Device [1022:57a4]
08:00.0 Non-Essential Instrumentation [1300]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse Reserved SPP [1022:1485]
08:00.1 USB controller [0c03]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Matisse USB 3.0 Host Controller [1022:149c]
08:00.3 USB controller [0c03]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Matisse USB 3.0 Host Controller [1022:149c]
IOMMU Group 19:
03:09.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Device [1022:57a4]
09:00.0 SATA controller [0106]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] FCH SATA Controller [AHCI mode] [1022:7901] (rev 51)
IOMMU Group 2:
00:01.2 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse GPP Bridge [1022:1483]
IOMMU Group 20:
03:0a.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Device [1022:57a4]
0a:00.0 SATA controller [0106]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] FCH SATA Controller [AHCI mode] [1022:7901] (rev 51)
IOMMU Group 21:
04:00.0 Non-Volatile memory controller [0108]: Samsung Electronics Co Ltd NVMe SSD Controller SM981/PM981/PM983 [144d:a808]
IOMMU Group 22:
05:00.0 VGA compatible controller [0300]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD/ATI] Baffin [Radeon RX 460/560D / Pro 450/455/460/555/555X/560/560X] [1002:67ef] (rev cf)
05:00.1 Audio device [0403]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD/ATI] Baffin HDMI/DP Audio [Radeon RX 550 640SP / RX 560/560X] [1002:aae0]
IOMMU Group 23:
06:00.0 USB controller [0c03]: Fresco Logic FL1100 USB 3.0 Host Controller [1b73:1100] (rev 10)
IOMMU Group 24:
07:00.0 Ethernet controller [0200]: Realtek Semiconductor Co., Ltd. RTL8111/8168/8411 PCI Express Gigabit Ethernet Controller [10ec:8168] (rev 26)
IOMMU Group 25:
0b:00.0 VGA compatible controller [0300]: NVIDIA Corporation GP104 [GeForce GTX 1080] [10de:1b80] (rev a1)
0b:00.1 Audio device [0403]: NVIDIA Corporation GP104 High Definition Audio Controller [10de:10f0] (rev a1)
IOMMU Group 3:
00:02.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1482]
IOMMU Group 4:
00:03.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1482]
IOMMU Group 5:
00:03.1 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse GPP Bridge [1022:1483]
IOMMU Group 6:
00:04.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1482]
IOMMU Group 7:
00:05.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1482]
IOMMU Group 8:
00:07.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1482]
00:07.1 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse Internal PCIe GPP Bridge 0 to bus[E:B] [1022:1484]
0c:00.0 Non-Essential Instrumentation [1300]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse PCIe Dummy Function [1022:148a]
IOMMU Group 9:
00:08.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1482]
00:08.1 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse Internal PCIe GPP Bridge 0 to bus[E:B] [1022:1484]
00:08.2 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse Internal PCIe GPP Bridge 0 to bus[E:B] [1022:1484]
00:08.3 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse Internal PCIe GPP Bridge 0 to bus[E:B] [1022:1484]
0d:00.0 Non-Essential Instrumentation [1300]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse Reserved SPP [1022:1485]
0d:00.1 Encryption controller [1080]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse Cryptographic Coprocessor PSPCPP [1022:1486]
0d:00.3 USB controller [0c03]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Matisse USB 3.0 Host Controller [1022:149c]
0d:00.4 Audio device [0403]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse HD Audio Controller [1022:1487]
0e:00.0 SATA controller [0106]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] FCH SATA Controller [AHCI mode] [1022:7901] (rev 51)
0f:00.0 SATA controller [0106]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] FCH SATA Controller [AHCI mode] [1022:7901] (rev 51)

u/eitherrabbit78 · 2 pointsr/oculus

Are your drivers for your USB Hub Windows 10 default drivers or are the updated drivers for the Hub it self from the manufacturer?

EDIT I had the same issue until I bought and installed;amp;psc=1

u/Xolandi · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

&gt; NETGEAR N600 Dual Band N Adaptor

It's a USB adapter... Get a PCIe Adaptor if you can. TPLINK This is a favorite of mine it's not expensive and works really well.

u/itsbentheboy · 2 pointsr/linux4noobs

I have personally been using This card(TL-WDN4800) by TP-Link for years with no issues.

Its the best selling wifi card on amazon, and has been for quite some time. Covers all wireless speeds up to Wireless-N latest standards.

There is also another model that covers up to Wireless-AC if you really need that kind of speed. (Doubtful, unless you are building your own router, or are in a severely congested network)

[unsure if you meant desktop or laptop PCI]

u/TFWPrimus · 2 pointsr/oculus

Crap, I ordered this one: Hopefully it works as well as the one you linked. Looks pretty similar.

u/zeroyon04 · 2 pointsr/oculus

Do you have an open Pcie slot on your mobo? If you don't have a USB 3.0 card already, you will need one. Your X58 Mobo doesn't have USB3.0.

People are saying this one passes the compatability checker:

Your CPU and motherboard might be good though, yes. It all depends on how much single thread performance is required on the Rift. If you find that your CPU useage is pegging ~100% utilization while using the Rift, then overclock it to 4.2GHz+ using the many guides on the net. If you still can't maintain 90+FPS after that, then you will need an upgrade to a newer architecture like Haswell, Haswell-E, Broadwell, or Skylake.

u/Tharghor · 2 pointsr/oculus

I did, get the Inateck they recommend.
replace with if in Europe. I've had these problems for a long time and it was part of why I didn't use my rift that much. Be careful and get the newest drivers though.

u/ronfar623 · 2 pointsr/unRAID

I can't help with the errors, but I can recommend this card as it works well with my two Windows 10 VMs under 6.2.4:

Can pass the entire card to the VM and just plug USB peripherals normally. 100x easier.

u/loldongs11 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

What one are you using now? If it's a name brand one and your previous one was also a good brand there could be an issue with your USB ports.

Assuming you're on a desktop as you are using wireless adaptors I would recommend a PCI-E wifi card this one is what I use and is really good, never had an issue with it.

If you're US/Europe find it on your local Amazon rather than Amazon UK.

u/super-6-1 · 2 pointsr/oculus

Well, after looking around i had this same issue but mine would come up and say it was not supported. You have the Asmedia USB 3.0 chipset which isn't supported by Oculus. The FAQ is here

They have the driver at the bottom but sadly the website isn't working right now for that link. You can use 2.0 and be alright. If you can get a new USB card for your desktop. The one i got because of the same issue you have is this one and i haven't had a issue.

u/KoloHickory · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I wouldnt get anything crazy for this build. Save some cash get EVGA 500 W1, 80+ WHITE 500W, 3 Year Warranty, Power Supply 100-W1-0500-KR

It'll get the job done.;amp;file=print&amp;amp;reid=384

It got an overall score of 8 from johnny guru.

u/Betrayyal · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I think I'd need at least 500W to be on the safe side - the PC has an i5-6400 and a 750ti. So I'd rather have more than less when it comes to the PSU. With the prebuilt I have, the PSU is at the top of the case.

There was a video someone made on replacing the PSU for this particular PC. But the only other question I have, I guess, would be if any of these PSUs are safe to use and a reliable when it comes to stability?

u/Firestorm985 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If you're willing to lose modular cables, this should be good.

EVGA 500 W1, 80+ WHITE 500W, 3 Year Warranty, Power Supply 100-W1-0500-KR, Black

u/CeeeeeJaaaaay · 2 pointsr/buildapc

That is a pretty solid build, congrats. These are my feedbacks:

The only thing that stands out negatively is the USB WiFi adapter. There's no need for a USB card when you can have a PCI-E card. I suggest this one:

You may not need the dual band but trust me, it's handy and the difference in price makes it worthy, since with that card you'll be future proof even if you get Google Fiber.

I'd personally get a better case. The 200R is a good case, don't get me wrong, but with a budget like that I'd get something better: the Cooler Master 690 III for example, which is pretty much the best mid tower case available on the market:

I also have no experience with EVGA PSUs. However I know that the best PSU manufacter on the market is SeaSonic. Some PSU manufacters buy SeaSonic parts and use them for their PSUs. I don't know if EVGA does it, but XFX is one of them, and I'd get this PSU:

650W, Fully Modular, Gold Certified, same price as yours.

This depends on your habit but you could save on the Optical Drive (who uses DVDs anymore?), and if you don't want to you could get a OD from an old build/an old PC since as long as it's a SATA drive it'll be fine.

I'd also recommend Windows 8 instead of Windows 7 since it's SSD optimized and it boots a lot faster. You don't have to use the Start Menu if you don't want to, or you can use it to store your desktop applications like I do.

The rest of the build is fine to me, congrats on your rig man.

u/Sargeant123444 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I really don't understand what the first three words of the tiltle are however here is a parts list.







Hard Drive:;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1483406591&amp;amp;sr=1-2&amp;amp;keywords=Hard+Drive


That should be everything you need to game comfortably with your budget. I did not include a monitor as I will assume that you already have one, if not here is a link.


u/huehuehuehuehuehu · 2 pointsr/theNvidiaShield

Awesome. I'll be happy so long as I can get at least 720p @30fps. I'm planning on buying this adapter to go with it, so it'd be sweet if the 5Ghz connection helps even more. Thanks for the help!

u/rapey_tree_salesman · 2 pointsr/buildapc

This should be fine. I have one running an i5 and 970 in my htpc. Highly rated.

u/i_dont_seed · 2 pointsr/buildapc

That monitor is pretty good (I think it's 1200p), but for cheaper(I think) you can get an Asus VS248H-P (1080p).

You can get a wireless adapter such as this. Having a good router is obviously beneficial.

Make sure the PSU is big enough to CFX those cards.

You can get a more recent i5 4690k and z97 board.

FYI to link to reddit, there is a button on the top right on pcpartpicker (above the part list) which is labeled "Export/Markup". Click that, and then copy and paste the highlighted text into reddit.

u/dontworriaboutit · 2 pointsr/hardwareswap

Yeah theres 500W 80+ EVGA PSU for $35 on Amazon Warehouse Deals link

u/YOLOSWAGBROLOL · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace


  1. Depends on budget and what you are going for. A price drop of $50 or less isn't the biggest deal to so people. You could always build and run on integrated graphics till you are ready for the GPU. Prices may slightly come down when items stop selling out instantly.

  2. Most motherboards will have built in Ethernet port. Some will have built in WiFi adapters. If one doesn't you can purchase one. WiFi adapters that are work on both 2.4 and 5 Ghz are all you need. I use this;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1466008313&amp;amp;sr=1-1&amp;amp;keywords=wifi+adapter+pci

  3. Slightly. Some manufacturers have better customer service. Some cards have slightly better cooling capabilities and a pre-applied overclock.
    For example EVGA uses a few different tiers on their cards that go up in price as you move through the tiers.
    If overclocking isn't something you are that interested in then price and noise is something you should factor in. Some cards are going to be louder than others so you should read reviews before dropping a few hundred on a card.
u/nicking44 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

I'm no expert with PSUs so this is just my opinion. but if you're willing to put a bit more money into it EVGA makes some good cheap PSU for about $60 (USD) new

but here's 1 for about $40 EVGA 500 W1 that comes with a 3 year warranty

u/TeaJizzle · 2 pointsr/Civcraft

Looks pretty good for a budget PC, I'd look at spending $30 more on a r9 270 since it's quite a bit better.

Swap out the PSU for a similar quality 500w one and you'll have plenty of power for no extra cost.

If there's any way you can stretch to a cheap i5 it'll be well worth it as more games start utilizing multicores. It's another $60 but if you can't do another $90 then I'd go for the graphics card upgrade instead.

u/viperatedrko · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If your gonna be gaming at 1080p you might want to switch to the AMD RX 480 because your motherboard is AMD optimized for Crossfire and not Nvidia SLI if you so choose to run two cards in the future.

The RX 480 runs better, if not the same, performance as the GTX 970 and costs $200 for the 4GB model, which saves you $55.

WiFi Adapter

Monitor #1

Monitor #2; This is my monitor and it works great but costs $30 more

Gaming Mouse

u/KhaosKat · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If you can buy from Amazon, get this Crucial BX100 instead. It's a vastly superior SSD.

The Tacens doesn't have a very good reputation either. A servicable, inexpensive PSU from Amazon would be the EVGA 500W. It's a lower quality unit than I would normally recommend for your build, but it's better than either of the other two. A better quality unit, though more expensive, is the SuperFlower GoldenGreen 450 HX.

Edit: I don't speak or read Spanish, so I hope these parts are actually available :)

u/Running_With_Beards · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Yes you will need a network adapter,;amp;psc=1&amp;amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
That is the #1 on amazon.
Although might I suggest getting a better motherboard with the rest of your left over budget? The one you have is good, and will do the job, but for relatively not much more, you can get one with many more options available to you for the future.

BTW, something also to think about, mouse, and keyboard, what type are you going to use? I mean, my thinking is, why buy a sports car (gaming PC) but have seats like a school bus. A cheap mouse and keyboard get the job done perfectly well, but you can get some pretty nice ones (let's be honest, we like to spoil ourselves).

Warning: THIS IS BUILDAPC, where we will always, even by accident, try to convince you "Hey if you spent just a LITTLE bit more, it would be so much better for you!"
I ended up planning my build with a 660, to a 760, and now I am debating if I NEED a 770 just because everyone else is getting one XD.

u/khalo0odz · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Check this out.

u/sensilla · 2 pointsr/buildmeapc

Thanks for your reply! I agree about the PSU and now that you mention it, I have been getting the Blue Screen of Death randomly lately. Would this PSU work with this setup:;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1499139936&amp;amp;sr=1-2&amp;amp;keywords=psu?
Maybe I'll forget about the DVD drive and upgrade the PSU.

And yeah I know my budget is super low but it's all I can afford at the moment. As for performance, I plan on playing pretty casually once in a while so hopefully this fits the bill. Thanks again!

u/Philliphobia · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme
  • This one from tp-link is pretty much the best you can get, it connects to pci-e x1, which is the smallest pci lane on that motherboard, so it can easily be slotted in with the graphics card taking up 2 other lanes
  • Not particularly, plenty of room for storage expansion, 4 pci expansion bays (so enough for the 2 slot graphics card, 1 slot pci-e wireless adapter and still one left for something in a left over pci lane). They're only a downside for serious enthusiast builds with triple/quad sli, or sound cards and raid cards and huge cpu coolers etc.
  • that is the same harddrive essentially, just with a bigger cache, which means it would be slightly faster. personally I go for whatever's cheapest. I assume that the harddrive quality from aria is fine, I've only ever heard about problems with files still being on a new harddrive bought from overclockersuk.
  • I chose that one since it's a mechanical keyboard, which are generally people's choice in a high budget build. It could certainly be changed for this, or even cheaper this. Membrane keyboards are still fine to use, I'm currently using one and have personally never used a mechanical
  • You'll need a screwdriver, but that's about it. Just be sure to build on a non conductive surface, and don't be standing on carpet. If you're happy with this build then you should head over to /r/buildapc for the others of there to give it a look over, and to ask any questions.
u/haikuginger · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Before you do that, double-check that that's what the Mac is doing. Hold the Option key and click on the WiFi logo at the top of the screen- when the menu pops down, it'll have additional information about your connection. Look for the item labeled "Channel"; it'll have a channel number and then tell you what band it's in-- either 2.4GHz or 5GHz.

If the Mac is connecting on 5GHz, then it's safe to say that you've simply got some bad interference on the 2.4GHz band. If not, it's likely that the cheap adapter you got for your PC is defective (or simply really crappy to start out with).

Either way, this adapter should be a great investment and should give you fantastic wireless performance.

u/dd4tasty · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Strange: that is a decent card:

18 feet distance, and only one wall? Made out of what, crystallized copper?

You are very tech savvy (inSSIDer! Hooray), and have done your homework. I do notice someone else on channel 1, no SSID: try channel 6? Since someone is on 11?

Drivers: you did find current drivers? What is the date? And you downloaded the correct version? SOHO networking companies have a bad habit of naming something the HyperTronBeam 4800, then come out with "version 2" which is completely different, and sucks (Linksys is famous for this). Version of your card?

And that copper wall: any idea what's in it? Pipes? Wires? Chickenwire? (for plaster?)

Your modem/router may be the weak link.

u/Invextion · 2 pointsr/buildapc

EVGA 500 W1, 80+ WHITE 500W, 3 Year Warranty, Power Supply 100-W1-0500-KR, Black

u/VegasGamer75 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

FO4 will definitely keep you involved. I've gotten 150+ hours on it already and I haven't even played the DLCs. Just getting into building all the settlements up. Also, if you have Steam (which I am assuming is where you have your FO4), grab Evolve since it's free across the board. Fun little arena shooter.


Also, on Amazon you should grab this PSU. I ordered it for my old desktop (since I pulled its out for my new build this weekend). Great price and should do you well. It's non-modular, but the price might get it to you for the new build sooner.


As for the ordering on Amazon for the GPU, I have no idea how long it will take. I really am not sure what Amazon did. They didn't even have them listed (for almost all model 1060s) before they were on back-order. So I am hoping that just means they got their shipment later than other retailers and they will be up soon.

u/TerryMathews · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Go into your BIOS and find the option that controls what the PC does on power failure. Make sure that's set to Always Off.

That will let us isolate whether you're having a power issue (maybe circuit in your house) or a PC issue.

After you set that if it dies and doesn't reboot automatically you know it's a PSU/power outlet issue. If it reboots, you know it's on the other side of the PSU (Mobo/CPU/RAM/video card/software).

My gut instinct:

u/lescrepe · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I think you'll be fine with 450-500W. This maybe?

u/v3c7r0n · 2 pointsr/homelab

By the time you're done putting drives in them, honestly you could build a fairly cheap mid-range desktop and run unraid, esxi or xen on it. As a for instance:

I just built a machine (yesterday) for my cousin for $281 with an AMD A10-7870K, 8GB of RAM (G.Skill), Gigabyte board, EVGA 500W PSU (I had drives and a case) with some minor tweaking, it should the job decently, and not sound like you live inside a box fan that's always on. I would look at adding a dedicated video card for plex, but even then, you can run plex on an I5 Intel NUC off Server 2008 R2 with 8GB of RAM (that's what mine currently is) so the A10 might be able to handle it on it's own.

u/bot420 · 2 pointsr/buildapc
u/Flintlocke89 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Apart from getting one of the intel M2/mSATA wireless chips that include bluetooth and a PCI adapter for it, I don't think so. USB Bluetooth devices are generally pretty crappy, as far as I know Bluetooth is always a fairly laggy protocol.

Example of something that might work:

/edit: Just noticed that that card needs a USB connection from your mobo to power it. Still think that the extra antennae + the better quality controller may be able to reduce latency though.

u/Heinus · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Some motherboards come with built in bluetooth/wifi/bluetooth+wifi, some come with an extra bluetooth/wifi/bluetooth+wifi dongle thingy that you put onto the motherboard, some don't come with any bluetooth/wifi/bluetooth+wifi.

Motherboards come with at least one LAN port.

EDIT: The wifi card I have is here TP-link is a very popular manufacturer for them, and while this specific model is pricey, i love it.

u/diddycarter · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

i bought this for 30 bucks. i have r9 380 4gb, 1 240gb ssd, i5 6500 cpu. should i return it and get this instead?

u/freestylekyle314 · 2 pointsr/PrintrBot

There's some weird stuff with the power supply, some power supply don't like giving that much power over the PSU connector without a load on the main 12v rail. I had a expensive 600w I tried to use and it would do about what you're describing. Then I dug an old 350 watt it and it works great.
When I was looking into it this one was recommended;amp;psc=1

u/monkeyfunky_ · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I have two friends using this one No problems at all. Speeds are about 5-15% slower than wired at like 10-15 ft from router. Range is good but not like amazing. If you’re across the house you’ll lag.

u/realneega · 2 pointsr/buildapc
  1. usually you want positive pressure in your case meaning either more intake fans or intake fans spinning faster than out take fans so just keep that in mind

    2)nope get whichever is cheaper

    3)yeah dont get that its super expensive...this is the most i would spend it has bluetooth and wifi if youre into that kind of thing lol

    also you dont need thermal paste your cooler will come with some
u/tiestofalljays · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Gaming doesn't require much bandwidth at all, so you'd be fine with Wireless N. Don't spend too much. I'm using a TP-Link PCI-e card and it does just fine. :) Linked below.

TP-Link N900

u/fostermatt · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I only use mine with a Windows PC and I've had no problems. Before I got it my PC had no Bluetooth or Wifi so I picked up this. I built the computer myself last summer. Got the keyboard maybe 9 months ago and it's been rock solid. I did replace the case with one of these, though I've heard that should hurt not help the Bluetooth. Still been rock solid though.

u/ElectronicsWizardry · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Do you need pci or pcie?

these work well for pcie

This is a intel card ^, will work fine in windows 10

u/bigceej · 2 pointsr/nvidia

I was going to say something similar about that card. My sister has it in her rig and its so trash, it constantly has errors and I have to wipe and reset drivers almost every month. It hardly works unless i am using 5ghz and a static IP. I have this and its a amazing how well it works. I get literally the exact same speed and reliability as my PC that is hard wired. Obviously you need a decent router as well, but my Nighthawk seems to be doing fine for the most part. If you are going to game wireless, I would highly recommend this card and getting a higher end AC router.

u/Hyppy · 2 pointsr/buildapc

A great 802.11N Wi-fi card is the TP-Link TL-WN881ND for $20.

Edit: For Wireless-AC, the Gigabyte Wifi/Bluetooth combo card is pretty popular.

u/jca3746 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

This bad boy is in my friends build that I made her and she loves it! Plus it has an optional Bluetooth module included!

u/letscountrox · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

It's a slot on your motherboard, the PCIe wireless card will usually go into a 1X slot which is the small ones with 2 slits. This is the one that have and it also has bluetooth. But to use the bluetooth, you need to connect the card to an INTERNAL USB header on the motherboard as well. If you don't have a need for bluetooth, then just get any other PCIe wireless network card.

u/maldoraf7 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

First off, USB is not an option for you if you want less signal loss. A tri-antenna PCI adapter like this one will suit you better. You should also look into a wifi repeater/extender (I don't know any good ones, though).

u/HagPuppy89 · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

Pc part picker, automatically searches for the lowest price at popular retailers, for instance the Ryzen 7 3700x is available at amazon but it’s a bit more at $387.

Another motherboard could have WiFi integrated in it, or an add-in card can supply WiFi capabilities


Or an add- in card like:

Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I REV Bluetooth 4.2/Wireless AC/B/G/N Band Dual Frequency 2.4Ghz/5.8Ghz Expansion Card

u/GuiltyRhapsody · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If you're not running a mini itx system, then I would definitely get a PCIE adapter. I've had no luck with USB adapters. I bought the highest rated one on amazon, but get random moments where the controller isnt responsive and it just takes the last input.

Probably something like this would work, but it's a bit pricey as it's wifi+bt:;amp;qid=1474506324&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;keywords=pcie+bluetooth+adapter

On the other hand, DO NOT BUY THESE PRODUCTS:;amp;qid=1474506240&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=usb+bluetooth+adapter+aukey;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1474506214&amp;amp;sr=1-4&amp;amp;keywords=usb+bluetooth+adapter

u/iiNt3rV3nTiiOnZ7 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

If you have a router supporting 5GHz it is highly recommended to get a dual band adapter. Something from tp-link would serve you well:

u/CAP27 · 2 pointsr/24hoursupport

A) First off, if you are close to your router, invest in some Cat5e or Cat6 cable for connection. A lot of people here might preach Wi-Fi, but I believe for what you intend to use this computer for (Gaming???, probs due to its name) you'll have better luck &amp; Connection by hardwiring directly to the router itself.

B) This SHOULD work for a wi-fi adapter. This is coming from an Amazon review who bought the Motherboard and then went on to put this adapter in one of his open slots.

u/Caroao · 2 pointsr/buildapc

like this?

u/wickeddimension · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Yes I do (Althought I always recommend Cable over Wifi ,but I'll just assume that isn't a possiblity for you :P )

The Archer T series are good. The 3 models come up as top, T6E , T8E , T9E. Some do 802.11AC wifi others don't. Depends on your router and home network if you would have any use for that.

Those are all PCI Cards you place inside your PC. The Asus PCE-AC68 also deserves a mention if we are talking about High performance Wireless cards. Althought its expensive.

You can also go the USB route, you'll end up with dongles like this Netgear AC1200 which is a excellent USB options, but once again pricey (See the trend, dont worry we are getting there)

A more affordable PCI Options would be this TP-LINK WDN4800 N900 or a USB dongle like this TP-Link WDN4200 N900

And if you are really low on funds you could go for something like the Asus USB-N13 for 18$ or TP-Link N300 which is only 11$.

Personally I'd recommend you grab the TP N900, either the PCI or USB variant would do fine , PCI is faster, USB is probably a bit more versatile as you can use it with any PC/Laptop. N900 gets great reviews all around and it supports 802.11N , should be plenty fast for gaming. One issue the N900 seems to have is Digital signage with W10 ,so you need a different driver than the official one to get by this issue and use 5ghz. Not sure if thats relevant for you.

Either way ,you see the trend, Asus and TP-link are really my go2brands for anything networking.

I realize I still gave you a ton of choices, might not be the most helpful, but atleast you'll have some direction to look.

u/xxxFioraxMaster18xxx · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/Aquagoat · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

If you've got a PCI slot on your mobo free you can get a wireless card to put in there for sure. Like this.
You could also get an Ethernet Over Power kit like this. You'd plug one into an outlet near your router, and run an ethernet cable from the router to it. Then plug the second one in near your PC, and connect to it with your ethernet cable. Voila. I've never used them, but I have a friend who uses one with great success.

u/Hawkdup45 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Right now your gonna want a AC WiFi card with Bluetooth. This model is the latest I believe with dual band 2.4Ghz &amp; 5Ghz antennas. 2.4Ghz is gonna be the most congested because a lot of devices use it like cell phones, microwaves and baby monitors. 5Ghz band is gonna give you the most bandwidth and faster speeds but it has shorter range. Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I REV Bluetooth 4.0/Wireless AC/B/G/N Band Dual Frequency 2.4Ghz/5.8Ghz Expansion Card

u/SlowlyVA · 2 pointsr/buildapc;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1406749283&amp;amp;sr=1-2&amp;amp;keywords=wireless+adapter

This one cost more but I am piggy backing on his post. Would it make a difference to get the one you posted or the one I linked?

How good are these things?

u/Saamstep · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You don’t need NVME unless you are dealing with many bytes of data fast (ex: servers). A 2.5” SATA SSD would be enough for gaming, you won’t notice any performance difference... I would go with this WiFi card if you just want WiFi or the one you already have there if you want Bluetooth and WiFi.
It shouldn’t matter, the only thing that does is that you’re getting a PCIE WiFi card :))

u/neums08 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I've seen some really spotty USB wireless adapters, so personally I'm sticking to PCI-e. I'd recommend something that supports 802.11ac if you plan on gaming. would probably do the trick.

u/IEATMILKA · 2 pointsr/hackintosh

TP-Link TL-WDN4800 N900 WLAN Dual Band PCI-E Adapter (bis zu 450Mbit/s auf 2,4GHz oder 5GHz, 3 Externe Antenne, geeignet für Windows 10/8.x/Vista/7/XP)

I dont use BT anyway, so thats ok

u/prometaSFW · 2 pointsr/buildapc

USB dongle works fine. A 1x PCIe card will give much better signal range, due to the larger antennas. A USB dongle inserted in the back of the chassis may have poor performance due to the big block of metal (the PC itself) in between the dongle and the BT device, too. (I had this issue with a USB wireless mouse dongle, and had to get a USB extension cable)

If you're willing to spend a little more, you can get a fast wifi card + bluetooth with an external remote antenna, like this one:

u/Kronos_Selai · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Both the Asus Prime and the MSI Gaming Carbon are great boards, but unfortunately neither of them have integrated WiFi/Bluetooth as you requested. That would cost an additional $30 or so with an add-in card such as this-

Anyhow, no, the 2700x doesn't require an X470 motherboard, as X470's biggest selling point is SLI compatibility (and usually better VRMs, etc). Go with what makes the most sense to you. You can find VRM specifications listed out with a quick google on each board, and determine if spending more money in total is worthwhile or not. All of these options will give you great performance.

u/lordzamorak · 2 pointsr/NoStupidQuestions

Depends if you have an open PCIE slot (the smallest slot) on your motherboard. I have this Gigabyte card : which I bought in 2016 and I love. Blazing fast and has Bluetooth.

Just remember, don't buy if you don't have the slot on the motherboard.

u/ajcp38 · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

Yes, you can fit 4 more fans. If you want wireless connectivity you would need a WiFi card. I'd suggest something like this.

u/kunmeh13 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

3- wd blues are great drives, and i've been running one solo for the past 2 years, but about to buy an ssd for my os and important programs. 1tb and 2tb. also note that the 1tb drive is 7200 rpm vs 5400 rpm in the 2tb, but since you aren't running the OS on that and just using it for storage, it's nothing to worry about.

4- stick everything in here. that's there recommended wattage psu to get, but its probably worth it just to get something 50 watts over that.

5- obviously, ethernet is the best choice, but if that's not available you can get something like this. one of my friends has powerline, and its really weird for him. some outlets he gets good speeds, and others are absolute trash. turning off and on the lights repeatedly causes a little lag while gaming, but overall he still likes it and uses it.

6- 27 inches is really huge, and you're not going to find a 1440p, 144hz, 27in, and gsync monitor for less than that.

u/Devchar96 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

My PC has a Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I card that has Bluetooth and wireless networking connectivity. It works for what I need it to, but I wish I could be hardwired.

u/4psae · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Hold up! HOLD UP!

That's $35 retail. It's probably a phishing scam. DO NOT ORDER IT!