Best computer external components according to redditors
We found 10,751 Reddit comments discussing the best computer external components. We ranked the 2,009 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 10,751 Reddit comments discussing the best computer external components. We ranked the 2,009 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
I used a $35 set from Phanteks. These to be exact. They’re amazing. I could have routed the motherboard cables behind the white beam, but I decided to take a tiny hit in overall airflow and route them in the front to show off how gorgeous they are.
https://www.amazon.com/Puget-Systems-Universal-Acrylic-Brace/dp/B019ZZQVK8
This drawer for your USB drives, adapters, memory cards, etc. Looks silly and has crappy build quality, but it's damn convenient.
There are also card readers for your unused 3.5" or 5.25" bays I own that specific one, and there's not much to say about it. It's functional so if you need one, it'll be worthwhile. I will note I had to open that one and cut out the power LED because it was so blindingly bright and unnecessary (it's built into my computer-- once I've tested it once I can assume it's turned on whenever my computer is turned on). But that was an easy fix and besides, $7 card reader, do you expect perfection?
Just a word of warning - I implemented this in my car, and ran into a few hurdles:
Overall, cool project, but I retired my setup!
Yeah, that's not me. I just ordered a new 4u Rackmount server chassis for my FreeNAS. This was a xpost from /r/DataHoarder
This is what I ordered for my FreeNAS:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091IZ1ZG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I posted about it here: https://www.reddit.com/r/DataHoarder/comments/cjb8gt/so_much_for_the_small_form_factor/
Agreed. As long as the parts are compatible, which we can help with, assembling a pc is the way to go. This budget is difficult, though. Ideally you’d budget $250 (210€?)just for the graphics card. You really want a GTX1060. The graphics card is everything in a gaming computer. You won’t have much budget left; that means bare minimums on everything else.
This build is an excellent place to start:
PCGamer.com cheapest gaming computer build
Intel Pentium G4560
GeForce GTX 1060 3GB
ASRock B250M Pro4
Crucial 8GB (2x4GB) DDR4-2133
Crucial MX300 275GB
EVGA 450W 80+ Bronze PSU
Don’t forget a copy of Windows 10, a decent mouse, keyboard, monitor, and headphones or speakers.
Also I’ll suggest you reuse an old 7200rpm SATA hard drive (250gb+)if you have one in an old PC. This isn’t ideal, but it will help control costs and while it will make the game load slower than the Crucial MX300 listed above, it wont really affect gameplay.
EDIT:
Based on feedback and current prices, I suggest the following hardware:
$59
Intel Pentium G Series 3.50 GHz Dual-Core LGA 1151 Processor (BX80677G4560)Amazon
$64
GIGABYTE GA-B250M-DS3H LGA1151 Intel Micro ATX DDR4 MotherboardAmazon
$150
Gigabyte Geforce GTX 1050 2GB GDDR5 128 Bit PCI-E Graphic Card (GV-N1050OC-2GD)Amazon
$95
Kingston HyperX FURY Black 8GB Kit (2x4GB) 2133MHz DDR4 Non-ECC CL14 DIMM Desktop Memory (HX421C14FBK2/8)Amazon
$70
Crucial MX500 250GB 3D NAND SATA 2.5 Inch Internal SSD - CT250MX500SSD1
Amazon
$45
Corsair CX Series 450 Watt 80 Plus Bronze Certified Non-Modular Power Supply (CP-9020120-NA)
Amazon
$50
Corsair Carbide Series 100R Mid Tower Case
Amazon
Total
$533 (449€)
Tagging u/remarkable_function
Warning, big ass list of stuff.
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-RM1000x-Modular-Certified-warranty/dp/B015YEI7LK for $130
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-RM750i-Modular-Certified-warranty/dp/B00YPNSQTU for $100
https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Gaming-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST4000DX001/dp/B00FQH7MQ2 for $117
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-Single-PC3L-12800-SODIMM-204-Pin/dp/B006YG8X9Y $20.79
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-SODIMM-Memory-System-CT2K8G3S160BM/dp/B008LTBJFW $42.79
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Obsidian-750D-Performance-Tower/dp/B00EB6O4N8 $99.99
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Trackball-Computer-Mouse/dp/B0043T7FXE $20
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-G13-Programmable-Gameboard-Display/dp/B001NEK2GE $34
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Gaming-SCIMITAR-Mechanical-Buttons/dp/B019OQJ9XE $60
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Performance-Mouse-Mac/dp/B002HWRJBM $45
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Surround-Theater-External-Speakers/dp/B004M18O60/ $250
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Hyperion-Gaming-Fusion-910-004069/dp/B00LZVNWIA $30
https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Gaming-Headset-PS4/dp/B00Y09G6H8 $75
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Surround-Hybrid-Headset-Adapter/dp/B01B1H33WW $60
https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-PC-350-Special-2015/dp/B015ZKJIYI $90
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Keyboard-Touchpad-Internet-Connected/dp/B014EUQOGK $18
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U28E590D-28-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor/dp/B00YD3DBOC $300
https://www.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-Portable-External-GP65NB60/dp/B00ODDE33U $20
https://www.amazon.com/Ballistix-PC3-12800-240-Pin-Memory-BLS4KIT8G3D1609DS1S00/dp/B007HAXMGA $96
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-16GBx2-PC4-17000-SODIMM-260-Pin/dp/B015YPB8ME $96
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Dominator-Platinum-3200MHz-PC4-25600/dp/B018GK2G9S $96
https://www.amazon.com/Ballistix-Sport-8GBx2-PC4-19200-288-Pin/dp/B01AG9EZ3M $55 (must-have for a white-themed build)
https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-DOMINATOR-Platinum-3000MHz-Systems/dp/B016BWENUI/ $194
https://www.amazon.com/Transcend-JetFlash-Flash-Drive-TS32GJF790K/dp/B00JKATVUQ $7.50 (32GB)
https://www.amazon.com/PNY-Elite-32GB-Flash-Drive/dp/B01E17L6AK/ $8.50
https://www.amazon.com/PNY-Turbo-Elite-Flash-Drive/dp/B01DWN1CMG/ $12 (64GB)
https://www.amazon.com/Transcend-MicroSDHC-Memory-Adapter-TS32GUSDU1PE/dp/B015J44R0U $7 (32GB)
https://www.amazon.com/PNY-MicroSDXC-Adapter--UHS-I-P-SDU64U185EL-GE/dp/B01G26R7M4 $14 (64GB)
https://www.amazon.com/Transcend-MicroSDXC-Memory-Adapter-TS64GUSDU1PE/dp/B016B6AMFY $14 (64GB)
Hey,
some of you asked for this, so here it is:
HARDWARE:
Raspberry Pi 3
Display: 3.5" Touchscreen
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B071JDSS1W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Sound:
external usb sound card:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01N905VOY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Amp: 5V - 3W stereo
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01MR169J8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Volume Knob:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01G1EWAAG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Speaker: 2" 3W Full Range
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B073XH8KK8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Noise Reduction:
Ground Loop Noise Isolator:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01IETQQQK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Ferrite core:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01E5ALVWQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
SOFTWARE:
I will release the Code (and the 3d printing stuff) as an Open Source project after some refactoring.
thank you for the great response!
Buy a 5.25" storage drawer, one like this
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006VAD2C6/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/desktop-computer-companion-accessories-Cosmos/dp/B006VAD2C6
Your welcome
I didn't realize this thing was still on the market. It was overpriced when it first launched. At $79 in 2017, you're just throwing away money for a name.
Here is a USB DVD burner for less than half the price of the SuperDrive:
https://www.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-Portable-External-GP65NB60/dp/B00ODDE33U/
I use Beyerdynamic DT990 (600 ohms) for competitive shooters and Sennheiser HD800 for singleplayer/immersive games.
My go-to recommendation is Sivga SV007 with V-MODA BoomPro. If you need sound isolation, then I suggest Status Audio CB-1.
If you're open to using a mic such as Antlion ModMic or Massdrop Minimic, then I have other headphone recommendations and suggestions.
If you want virtual surround sound, then you can use e.g. Astro Mixamp Pro TR, Creative Sound BlasterX G6, or Turtle Beach Elite Pro TAC. I recommend SBX Pro Studio from Creative as a virtual surround sound processor; it has less compression and better positional audio than Dolby Headphone.
 
Setup
---
You attach the BoomPro mic by inserting it directly into the headphone, which replaces the original headphone cable.
The cable terminates in a single 3.5 mm connector, so you can connect it directly to the controller or any other device with a headset jack. If you connect it to a regular headphone jack, then the mic won't work. No mics will. If the device has separate headphone and mic ports, then you need to use a TRRS Y-splitter, which is included with the BoomPro.
To connect the headset to the USB port on PS4, you can use an audio USB adapter.
My recommendations:
At approximately the same volume, I heard no difference between these and the controller. I heard no hiss, hum, crackling, or other noise. The difference in the mic quality was negligible.
 
Sound
---
SV007:
SV007 a well-balanced sound profile. The mid-bass, which is where boom and punch come from, is a little bit boosted. The sub-bass, which is how deep the bass goes and is where rumble comes from, is a little bit reduced. The overall bass is clean. The treble is close to neutral. It's clean, smooth, and crisp. The midrange is clear, not tinny or muffled. The overall clarity is great.
It has a large soundstage, very good imaging and separation, and good to very good detail retrieval for competitive shooters. I assess headphones mainly in Battlefield: Bad Company 2, a multiplayer game I've played for over 3000 hours and I thrive at relying on sound cues.
Soundstage is perceived space and environment of sound. It's width, depth, and height. I mean the type of soundstage that the headphone produces. Many games have a narrow, shallow, and short soundstage. A small soundstage makes the environment around you sound confined or boxed in. With a large soundstage, the environment sounds more spatial and expansive. Imaging is inherent to the audio content. It's how accurately the locations of sounds/objects are reproduced. Soundstage and imaging constitute positional audio, and you could say they are the stereo equivalent of virtual surround sound. Before you make any stances on virtual surround sound, I recommend that you read this post I wrote. Separation is how you discern individual sounds from a range of overlapping sounds. You don't need to be concerned with this if you play competitively.
BoomPro:
You can actually judge for yourself by listening to recordings on YouTube.
I prefer to watch Podcastage for mic reviews.
 
Build, ergonomics, & features
---
SV007:
SV007 has an open design (as you can see with the grilles on the earcups), so sound passes freely in and out, unlike closed headphones which attenuate sound from passing through. The benefits of an open design are generally a larger soundstage and better imaging. If your ears tend to heat up, it may help mitigate this as it allows more airflow and heat to dissipate.
The build is sturdy and lightweight, featuring metal yokes, hinges, and headband. It has no flimsy or squeaky parts. The cups are made of wood. They tilt and swivel and can lie flat. I have average sized ears and the earpads fit around them and don't press them against the inside of the cups. The pads are plush and have a smooth and relatively high-quality protein leather. The headband has decent padding, but the headphone has great weight distribution so it doesn't exert pressure on top of my head and doesn't cause hotspots. Adjusting the headband is smooth and easy and it stays firmly in place. The clamping force is mild and isn't too loose or too tight for my average sized head. The build quality is excellent with a near immaculate finish all around.
BoomPro:
BoomPro has a flexible aluminum neck and a tangle-free, braided cable that's free of microphonics. The game volume and mic mute controls are easy to adjust and don't accidentally adjust themselves when rubbing against your clothes. Adjusting them is smooth and consistent, not scratchy, sluggish, or sticky. The mic is as non-obtrusive as a boom mic can be and is almost unnoticeable in my peripheral vision.
 
^Formatted ^in ^Reddit ^Enhancement ^Suite.
quick search and i found this http://www.amazon.com/desktop-computer-companion-accessories-Cosmos/dp/B006VAD2C6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409365005&sr=8-1&keywords=computer+bay+storage
RPM isn't that strongly correlated to decibel output. I have a very acoustically open case and the card is almost inaudible under most gaming conditions. It's really impressive.
Here's a benchmark for some 3rd party confirmation: https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/EVGA/GTX_1070_SC/23.html
29 decibels is quieter than a library. And that's at full load.
Edit: Username relevant?
USB DVD drives are cheap and it's a good idea to have one stocked at your company IT department, or just in your drawer at home. Link to Amazon $21.
Yeah, like a bracket you can screw into the unused PCIE brackets or something, like this: http://i.imgur.com/vgQwk2J.jpg
You can actually buy them!: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019ZZQVK8
Nope, just a standard case but with the whole right side being dedicated to cables / power supply / drives. I have the newer version of it.
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Carbide-High-Airflow-Cube/dp/B00D6GINF4
And the newer one:
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Carbide-Air-740-CC-9011096-WW/dp/B01LHFLPB4
EASILY the best case I've ever used in a build, by a wide margin.
Definitely! It can help prevent shearing of your GPU when the case is in transport. That's why people have GPU props like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Puget-Systems-Universal-Acrylic-Brace/dp/B019ZZQVK8
GPUs are heavy and can put stress on the PCI slot on the mobo if the case is jiggling around a lot (like if it were in a car).
EDIT: okay...I guess I get downvoted for logic and facts..funny.
Uh...
Edit : Not sure how the fuck I managed to post the wrong link.
so you are telling me he got this case but decided getting a decent power supply was a bad idea?
I bought a USB adapter to get audio out.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5ZhQAbSGK1SN1
As configured by you (i7, 3TB HD, 4GB video card), the cost comes to $3099.00. I added in 16GB of memory over the stock 8 since that's pretty much standard for most builds, anymore.
5k Dell Monitor: $1,439.99
Retail i7-4790: $307.00
Gigabyte GA-Z97-HD3 Motherboard: $102.95
Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB Kit: $66.99
Corsair Carbide SPEC-01 Mid Tower Case: $48.99
Silverstone Tek 500W 80+ Gold PSU: $79.99
EVGA GeForce GTX 960 4GB Video Card: $229.99
CM Storm Devastator KB/Mouse Combo: $29.99
Total Cost: $2305.89
Video card was a bit of a toughie since the iMac uses a notebook GPU, so I went with something a bit faster, but comparable. This is a complete system with comparable to better specs.
Given the price difference, may as well go with a 980Ti for that extra graphics oomph or tack on some water cooling.
Edit: Woops! Forgot storage and OS!
WD Blue 3TB HD: $98.70
Samsung 850 EVO 120GB (configured as cache drive): $66.99
Windows 10 Home: $119.00
Revised Total: $2590.58. Still cheaper and could still sub out the 960 for a 980Ti and be under cost.
Since everyone has been asking here's a list of everything.
-
---
PC specs and Peripherals
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor | Purchased For $199.99
CPU Cooler | Corsair - H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | Purchased For $84.99
Motherboard | Gigabyte - GA-AB350-GAMING 3 ATX AM4 Motherboard | Purchased For $59.99
Memory | Corsair - Vengeance LED 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | Purchased For $129.99
Storage | Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | Purchased For $104.90
Storage | Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | Purchased For $66.99
Video Card | PowerColor - Radeon RX 580 8GB Red Devil Golden Sample Video Card | Purchased For $339.00
Case | NZXT - S340 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case | Purchased For $99.99
Power Supply | Corsair - RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | Purchased For $99.99
Case Fan | Corsair - HD120 RGB 54.4 CFM 120mm Fan | Purchased For $26.99
Case Fan | Corsair - HD120 RGB 3-Pack w/Controller 54.4 CFM 120mm Fans | Purchased For $83.78
Monitor | Acer - XF270HU 27.0" 2560x1440 144Hz Monitor | Purchased For $400.00
Keyboard | Qisan - Magicforce Wired Mini Keyboard | Purchased For $31.98
Mouse | Corsair - M65 PRO RGB FPS (White) Wired Optical Mouse | Purchased For $49.99
Headphones | Superlux - HD668B Headphones | Purchased For $39.95
Headphones | Philips - SHP9500 Headphones | Purchased For $49.99
Other| Kanto YU2 Powered Desktop Speakers – 3" Composite Driver 3/4" Silk Dome Tweeter – Gloss White| Purchased For $199.99
Other| CORSAIR Lighting Node PRO| Purchased For $54.99
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $2123.49
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-09-19 03:24 EDT-0400 |
[Here's the link for those of you wondering] (http://amzn.com/B006VAD2C6)
Servers:
Networking:
FreeNAS Server Case:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091IZ1ZG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Rack:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XZWJPHG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Rackmount Power:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00077INZU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Extras:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008X3JIVS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002D1GG0C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0060RUVBA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1Y5O6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Well... To be honest you did get a audio interface designed to work with guitars and singer style microphones... When what you needed was an external soundcard.
There are major audio interfaces by the music industry. And your cool USB soundcard has some of the more popular ones... Yay! But it does not have what you want. Booo!
Your soundcard/interface is not designed for 3.5mm jacks. so you will need adapters to make it work.
On the front you have two XLR inputs or you can use them as TRS inputs. Pre sonus calls them "2 combo XLR/¼” mic/instrument inputs"
TRS inputs are big headphone jacks... 1/4 inch type. They would go in the middle of the inputs on the front. You would feed your mic in there. How? You can get an adapter that will allow your 3.5mm headphone jack to fit 1/4 headphones to fit the front area. Something like this... Can get them at Radio Shack pretty cheap. Make sure they are stereo and not mono though.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/400307-REG/Sony_PC234S_PC_234S_Mini_Stereo_3_5mm.html
You would need two of them, one for the headphones (labeled "phones") port in the back of the interface, and one for the mic part in the front of the interface.
If you are going to make music you got the right interface. If you are only using it as a really good soundcard, there are others that would fit you better. Like this...
http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1410104831&sr=8-15&keywords=audio+interface
Or if you got monies... this
http://www.amazon.com/Creative-Blaster-Surround-External-SB1560/dp/B00EZT7RE4/ref=dp_ob_title_ce
At the beginning I called one an audio interface and the other a sound card. Audio interfaces are a card that focus on the interface part, meaning the recording/band aspect of music and their connectors.. Sound cards are just making sound like the audio interfaces, but they don't include the band interfaces/ports/jacks and usually go to 3.5mm jacks like your headphones want.
Hope this helps.
Amazon Link: http://www.amazon.com/desktop-computer-companion-accessories-Cosmos/dp/B006VAD2C6
Some people think it's cheating, but many hackintosh owners just skip the audio driver problem entirely and get a cheap USB-to-audio adapter. Plug it in, plug in a set of speakers, and that's literally all you have to do.
Sure.
From Aus : https://www.storedj.com.au/beyerdynamic-dt880-pro-semi-open-studio-headphones-250ohms , I got the 880 pro's but the only difference is the cable and clamping, and looks.
They come in three different resistances, for computer gaming just get 32 ohms, it'll sound like 2% worse than the 250 ohm but go loud off phones and computer gaming soundcards. That said I got the 250's cheap secondhand (like half price cheap) and they go loud enough.
Then there's this, a veeeery high quality mic that sticks on to the headphones. https://www.pccasegear.com/products/37546
Lastly https://www.amazon.com.au/Creative-Performance-Headphone-Integrated-Microphone/dp/B00EZT7RE4 , which allows for surround sound processing and acts as a headphone amp, albeit relatively low power. Again I got this about 50% off secondhand.
Total price retail, $530. I paid $300. Keep in mind this is Aussie, all this is far cheaper in America.
The 200r is $48 or so on amazon, well worth the higher price from what I have been told:
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Carbide-200R-Compact-Case/dp/B009GXZ8MM/
The items used:
Raspberry PI Zero <- Bougth mine at local store.
http://amzn.com/B00S82B0VA <- Karaoke Mixer
http://amzn.com/B00SNLIG5O <- 128GB SD Card for storage
http://amzn.com/B001MSS6CS <- USB Audio Card
http://amzn.com/B003MTTJOY <- Wifi Adapter
http://amzn.com/B005HKIDF2 <- Usb Hub
A total of around ~$90
Edit
If a mic is needed that add $20
http://amzn.com/B003GEBGA0 <- Mic
Many people report issues with low volume on this mic. I've owned two and can confirm it is very quiet on some systems. From what I can tell, this is caused by some motherboards not supplying sufficient voltage to power this unit. A cheap usb sound card like this one fixes that problem. Definitely a good mic for the price if you're just using it for voice comms.
This. Works gloriously
Since you have an open slot directly below the GPU get this, https://www.amazon.com/Puget-Systems-Universal-Acrylic-Brace/dp/B019ZZQVK8/
This is how it's supposed to look
and here is a link to the GPU Brace!
Hi! The Raspberry PI only has audio output. You need an external sound device to get the audio signal into the PI. It's likely that any cheeeep-o Amazon USB audio device will be discovered by the Linux kernel, no drivers needed. I have one of these ripped apart and soldered directly to an HT for packet work, and it does fine under Debian.
edit - wrong link*
https://www.amazon.com/external-Adapter-Windows-Microphone-SD-CM-UAUD/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484950528&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=SYBA+external+USB+Stereo+Sound+Adapter+for+Windows%2C+Mac%2C+Linux+Extra+Audio+Source+with+Microphone+SD-CM-UAUD
Pimp out your unused 5.25" drive bays!
Fan controller
SD card reader
Extra cooling
LCD Display
Built in speakers
Parts drawer
Cigarette lighter
Been building my own rigs since I was 11. First one was a 386, and man, was it badass. I'll tell you, nothing quite like graduating from a Commodore 64 and Sega Genesis to a PC game.
Just built a new rig earlier this year. Can't recall the specs, I'll add them later, but here it is: http://www.imgur.com/uweUI7E.jpeg
EDIT: Whoops! Almost forgot to post specs.
Case
PSU
Top Case Fan
Processor
RAM
Motherboard
Gaming SSD
GPU
My OS is on an older SSD from an older build, but it's still fine. I also have a Seagate 1 TB and a Western Digital Black 1 TB for secondary storage. Most of that is my Steam library.
Did you ever plug it into one of those USB adapters? I've noticed a massive sound quality increase when using one with my Omni MM4. I didn't expect it since I have a decent motherboard and it's such a cheap piece of equipment, but it worked.
If you're still interested I did a project once that used all the hardware and software this would require and I could give you some pointers.
e: I used a raspberry pi and one of these rather than what he used. One advantage of doing it this way is you could do internet control so you can have a button on your smartphone instead of a combo.
e2: you'd also need a sound card for sound input on the pi to do combo input. I also used a rc filter for noise reduction/DC isolation, and a mechanical relay to hang up the phone.
No1 selling adapter on Amazon. #2 is the metal cased version for a little more.
I wouldn't recommend getting USB or surround sound headphones. They come in two types and both are mediocre as well as limiting. You have your headphones with multiple drivers, which reviews will time and time again say are off. Multiple smaller drivers in a circumaural headset next to year ear? Diminished sound quality as well as limited directional accuracy. The other option is to get a set that use virtual surround, but these are going to be USB only. My experienec with USB headphones tells me this is not worth it. Needing to install drivers, potential voltage dropouts from USB charge not being stable, popping (that shit HURTS and is what caused me to throw out my last USB headset), as well as not being able to plug it into more devices. The 3.5 millimeter standard is MUCH better to have here for its versatility and simplicity. If you would like USB, as another user suggested a functional reason for it (though the same could be achieved by using the front audio ports because most computers will still distinguish between headphones and speakers if you use the front ports), they do sell cheap USB adapters that often have their own virtual surround drivers. I'd recommend this over a dedicated USB headset. The lack of versatility and problems associated are worth keeping your setup modular. If you would like to have virtual surround but your soundcard/motherboard doesn't have driver support for it, then I really suggest grabbing the Razer Surround drivers for free.
Okay, wall of text is over! What SHOULD you buy? That's a crazy question. If you're looking for a headset (headphone+microphone), I'm personally a fan of the Logitech G230 which is one of the better price/performance options out there. They are not the highest quality headphones but they are sturdy (important!) and comfortable (double important!). The sound quality coming through them is more than passable. Sometimes I forget I'm not listening to speakers, even though I've been using them exclusively for months. The mic quality is mediocre and requires some boosting, so that should be known.
If you're just looking for headphones without a microphone, this is NOT the place to be asking that question. Audiophiles know headphone gear much better than gamers do, but generally don't know anything about headsets because the low-quality mics headsets use aren't of much use to audiophiles.
If you got through all that, congratulations and I hope it helps you! Just make sure to check reviews on various sites (or just Amazon, if you're lazy like me) and don't pick up anything with less than a 4/5 rating. Good luck!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006VAD2C6/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687462&amp;pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&amp;pf_rd_t=201&amp;pf_rd_i=B000IZBIRG&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=92Z8NV7VJAZPXX4RX680
This right here. I keep all of my flash drives in it and it is EXTREMELY handy!
I have one of these sitting around, it's not terrible, but it's not great. It's the cheapest white box rack mount case I could find that supported a decent number of drives (15).
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0091IZ1ZG/
I'm not an expert on backplanes by any means, but I don't think there are any standards for them across manufacturers. Each is made to fit a specific chassis.
If you want to avoid proprietary, you could get something like this. It will fit several different board form factors. I believe you can remove the front drive cages, which essentially leaves you with a load of 5.25" bays that you can load up with a couple of these, which are essentially self contained, four slot SATA backplanes that fit in 3 5.25" bays.
Again, I'm no expert, but I've seen some posts of similar setups as this and am considering doing this myself if I ever have the space for a rack.
Oh, shit, I was just looking at this on Amazon.
Anyway, I'm hesitant since I'm looking for a GPU brace that can be used for a PC that's going to be lugged around as well. Been searching for months, and found these options:
mnpctech I'm liking this the most because it's made of metal, has more options, but it's also the most expensive.
Puget Systems
Probably the first GPU brace on the market. I remember it used to have 4+ star reviews but now it's dropped.
Atlas This is new, and I'm liking it the second most.
MSI Another new option I've never seen. I like how the pole braces against the top and bottom of your PC case, but I can't stand the MSI Gaming logo even though I have an MSI 480.
I have a little USB KVM switch I got on Amazon... it hooks up to the MacBook Pro dock and to the back of the PC... hit a button and it switches instantly.
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MXXQKGM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I know it's not that helpful. But I struggled with sound out of the laptop's headphone jack for a couple months. I eventually broke down and just bought a small USB DAC and that fixed it right up and even sounded better than Window's did.
Something like this: Sabrent USB DAC [Amazon]
The audio output on the Pi is super low quality, you will hear a lot of noise from your stereo. A cheap USB sound adapter will make a big difference. This one worked for me
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.CX7AbFTRWR18
A brand new USB drive is cheaper
I'd expect this sort of attitude towards disc drives in 30 years from now when they are ancient but really man it wasn't that long ago when every computer had one. My laptop doesn't have a disc drive either but I bought a usb one for 20 bucks.
How I would do it is very easy. I use both windows and mac and it's the same on both.
It's not illegal for you to do this. You are just copying files from a disc to your computer without any intent to sell it. Also I see people on these subreddits sharing full photocopies of language books over google drive so it's not like we are so careful on legality. You are either being over dramatic or serious I can't tell but this is kind of sad especially if you are over 20 years old and don't know how to use a disc drive lol.
Motherboards: MSI Enthusiastic Gaming Intel Z270 DDR4 VR Ready HDMI USB 3 ATX Motherboard x2
Ram: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3000MHz C15 Desktop Memory Kit - White x2
Processors: Intel 7th Gen Intel Core Desktop Processor i7-7700K x2
3 of the Monitors (1 is a Benq): ViewSonic VX2452MH 24" 1080p Gaming Monitor HDMI, DVI, VGA
GPUs: GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 1060 DirectX 12 GV-N1060WF2OC-6GD 6GB 192-Bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 ATX Video Card x2
Coolers: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120mm PWM Fan (RR-212E-20PK-R2) x2
Speakers: Logitech Z313 Speaker System x2
Cases: Corsair Carbide Series Air 540 High Airflow ATX Cube Case - Black (and 1 white)
Keyboards: SteelSeries Apex 300 Gaming Keyboard, White LED Backlit and CORSAIR K55 RGB Gaming Keyboard
Mouse: Logitech G600 MMO Gaming Mouse (and don't ask what my cheap ass mouse is, but I love it)
Cat: Pain In The Ass Model
&#x200B;
Your best bet is to buy a DAC.
I snagged, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EZT7RE4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
For $35 used awhile back.
I have used this for about 6 years, very happy with it
Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi HD USB Audio System with Phono Preamp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004275EO4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_50GjxbGPCQFDN
Here is the newer version of it:
Creative Sound Blaster Omni Surround 5.1 USB Sound Card with High Performance Headphone Amp and Integrated Beam Forming Microphone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EZT7RE4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_a2GjxbYXRZF08
Get this on amazon, it costs $8:
usb soundcard
it works with mac/pc, and requires no drivers. It works out of the box and allows a 2nd input. This is the cheapest possible way to add a headphone channel to preview tracks.
Also, get this mixtrack, it costs $88 and works identically:
Numark mixtrack
You are limited by the software, why buy a more expensive controller when you can get last year's for $88? It works just as effectively and the USB soundcard saves you from buying the pro version, which is marked up double compared to the regular mixtrack.
Cable drawer perhaps? Such as this.
Yup here's the link I dug it out of my purchase history lol. I bought one about 4 or 5 years ago and haven't regretted it since. Perfect for storing memory cards/SD cards.
$123 on Amazon Warehouse - https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Rackmount-Computer-Pre-Installed-RSV-L4500/dp/B0091IZ1ZG/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Rosewill+RSV-L4500&amp;m=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&amp;qid=1564489643&amp;s=warehouse-deals&amp;sr=8-1
You might want to consider getting a USB to 3.5mm converter so you can continue to use your current headphones.
To cut down on costs, get a cheaper case, like a corsair 100r (upgrade case later) , forget the ssd for a while, lose the case fans -> buy some cheap generic ones, buy the r7 1700 and asus 480 8gb OC and keep everything else the same.
Pc's are easily upgradeable and "transplanting" your specs from a case to another is simple.
Unless you dont want to do the extra effort, just save up to buy everything at once. Which ever one you prefer is up to you.
It could well be enough, but since you're on a bike I'd recommend being safe than sorry. Something like this will spread the weight distribution out a bit more and should keep the card safer.
Did you buy him the card already? The RX 470 and RX480 are coming at the end of the month and will both feature better performance in battlefield and GTA and both are cheaper than that $250 380 you have in the cart.
But to answer your questions. No the 860k won't be much of a bottleneck in those games. Especially if you overclock it a bit with a good cooler. That cooler in your list only does a light overclock.
Can I also make a few suggestions?
You're building budget but went with a $200 monitor? Might as well spring for freesync and 1ms response time while you're at it.
Better Cooler - trust me it's worth it
2 Sticks of 4GB Instead for Dual Channel
Wifi Pci card over usb wifi
Why not a nice Micro Atx case to match the motherboard
Thinking about building a 3950X machine this fall. My main debate now is about what case to build in. I've narrowed it down to the Thermaltake V21 or the Cooler Master NR400.
I already have one V21 build; it houses a 16c/32t 1950X for compute and simulation tasks. The V21 case was a pleasure to work with. On the other hand, the NR400 is another micro-ATX case that caught my eye. It might be fun to build in.
Probable specs:
Part | Type
---|-----
Motherboard | MSI B450M Mortar Max
CPU | AMD 3950X 16c/32t
GPU | probably a 2070 Super
RAM | 16GB DDR4 3200
SSD | Inland Premium 1TB
HDD | 12TB WD Gold
PSU | EVGA 650w
Case | V21 or NR400
Shoutout to /u/caesar15 for recommending the Inland Premium SSD.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCE8T92/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MG0733A/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4OM9R4/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A1ZTZOG/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ARHBBPS/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RORBQNW/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H33SDR4/
--
Pentium g4560 on a H270 board
GTX 1050 (non-ti)
120GB SSD
8GB RAM
430W EVGA PSU
Corsair Carbide case
$517 total
And now I regret not using pcpartpicker and just setting it to US & Amazon..
not really.
but a gpu brace (https://www.amazon.com/Puget-Systems-Universal-Acrylic-Brace/dp/B019ZZQVK8) is 18.50$ and could help, the card might not be damaged from this slight sag but it will annoy you because you know that it is sagging.
think of the brace as a good bra or a boob job for your pc, personally i would plastidip the brace black or whatever color you prefer. (because clear plastic is yucky.
edit: you could just use some random item to brace the gpu but that wouldnt look very neat would it?
It's mostly aesthetic but can cause some damage to PCIe slots if it's really bad. You can get something like this to correct it, or engineer your own solution.
Not a KVM but just KM / USB Switch between the macbook pro and the PC. 😁
This one actually: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Selector-Computers-Peripheral-One-Button/dp/B01MXXQKGM
I can't find any KVM that would give me over 60hz at 1440p or Display Port, so my solution is to use HDMI for the Mac (50/60hz is ok i guess), and Display Port for the PC to utilize its gaming capability.
Hey, 1500+ hours in-game. I've played a thousand hours with a cheap $30 headset from Amazon, both with surround sound on and off. I've also played with Audio Technica M50x's and several other mid-range headphones. Currently I play with a set of semi-open back headphones.
Some tips:
Those are my soundwhoring tips. My current setup is a pair of AKG M220 semi-open back headphones and the Creative SoundBlaster Omni amp. I always play with Windows volume at 50 and in-game master volume at 80. Pretty loud, but it gets the job done and I don't find it uncomfortable unless it's for very long periods of time (5+ hours).
You can use a USB to Audio adapter, and use any 3.5mm headphones. Like these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N905VOY
Personally use a wireless headset and love it https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Flight-Detachable-Comfortable/dp/B077ZGRY9V
Pick up one of these: https://www.amazon.com/iXCC-Premium-Gold-Plated-Adapter-Extension/dp/B019D04S4G/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485751174&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=RCA+female+to+male+3.5mm
Then you just record game audio from a mic port instead. Obviously you can find cheaper ones. If you only have one mic port and dont have a USB mic, get one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485751227&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb+microphone+adapter
Turns a USB port into stereo mic and headphone ports.
USB soundcards are under ten bucks and work great!
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=zg_bs_3015427011_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=CJ2CR6MTN1FG1AFAMFXP
usb DAC
something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
No glue required.
$7: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
My windows laptop didn't have a dedicated mic input jack (only headphone), so I had to buy this. It works great so far :)
Isn't this a bit dramatic? It's seriously not hard to hook up one of these and then export the audio to your phone. I've done this millions of times and it's a lot easier than learning Korean.
Or get a cheap USB DAC for the headphones. Since it's for monitoring purposes only, sound quality wouldn't be a concern, which means you can go cheap. Like $8.50 cheap.
Buy a $6 USB sound card from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/external-Adapter-Windows-Microphone-SD-CM-UAUD/dp/B001MSS6CS
I mean, you could just use a usb speaker adapter too.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_4qXOub0JDD8RW
Right now I have I only have a CD/DVD drive in my drive bay which is pretty useless sooooo I've been thinking about rearranging my case innards to take advantage of my drive bays more and improve case airflow!
I have a Fractal Design Define R4 and I'm currently using the bottom storage drive rack inside the case. However, this is removable which would allow my front fans push more intake air. I'll have to remount my SSD and HDD first though. I can mount my SSD to a special side mount behind the motherboard. For the HDD I'm going to get a 3.5" to 5.25" drive bay adapter mount and remove my CD/DVD drive. In my second drive bay I'm going to put a simple drawer to help me organize my desk up a bit :P.
I Googled "USB switch" and the first result is a device that allows switching of connected devices between two computers.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006Z0Q2SI/ref=redir_mdp_mobile?gclid=COnFzLuvi7oCFYaDQgodbiYAKg
Would that work?
My scheming from when last we spoke appears to be paying off.
I've taken a single Supermicro X9SCL-F board and put it into a server that I'm currently using as a super-simplified SAN - CentOS on a small SSD with a ZFS mirrored vdev pool totaling 2TB for VM storage. I've tested the Dell 0KJYD8 cards that I had lying around with some SFP+ receivers that I bought on eBay in various configurations, and everything seems to work well. It looks like it's time for me to move on to Phase 2 of my plan :)
In preparation for Hurricane Florence (I live close to the east coast) I also went ahead and splurged on new batteries for all 4 of my UPSes - two Cyberpower 1500PFCLCD's and two APC Back-UPS Pro 1500's. I think, once I get the proper cable from Amazon to tell the APC's that they have new batteries and thus report an accurate remaining time to me, I will use those in my homelab, particularly because I can purchase battery expansions for these models to get even more runtime out of them. I'll likely use the Cyberpower UPSes for mine and my partner's desktop rigs. This was a relatively expensive purchase (compared to how much I've spent on the rest of my homelab), but it's definitely going to be worth it to be able to actually trust my UPSes in case of brownouts/blackouts going forward.
With all of that said, here's everything that's currently in my homelab:
Current Hardware
// todo (immediate)
// todo (future)
You may need to reboot after plugging the dac in. I only tried the analog audio out on the pcm2704. They are stereo only. This may be handy for projectors since they are USB powered and cheaper than HDMI extractors. Note there is not simultaneous audio output from USB and HDMI.
Links
SYBA external USB Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows, Mac, Linux Extra Audio Source with Microphone SD-CM-UAUD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yrkoxbR8N0JMM
Phantom YoYo PCM2704 USB Fiber Optic Coaxial Analog Output USB Sound Card Decoding Plate DAC USB Power https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5NQ12O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KskoxbJFVQ3ER
Griffin Technology iMic - The original USB Stereo Input and Output Audio Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y5D776/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wtkoxbHBWFXCF
Here is a side solution
https://www.amazon.com/external-Adapter-Windows-Microphone-SD-CM-UAUD/dp/B001MSS6CS
You are probably talking about USB Audio, it was actually added earlier in 4.1. The device also has to support USB Host. S4 does support USB Audio. The biggest problem is that Google does not give a damn about compatibility with external accessories. As far as I understand not all external USB Audio DACs/cards are compatible with all USB Audio Android smartphones.
EDIT: Here is what I think should work. Disclaimer: I'm not absolutely sure about compatibility.
EDIT2: This thing may potentially work too. It says "USB Audio Device Class Specification 10" so there is hope. Buy it at your own risk.
Like this? Also don't worry about antistatic bags.
Upgrade that ram, ryzen LOVES high speed. Get something like 2x8gb 3200: https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-3200MHz-Desktop-Memory/dp/B0143UM4TC Only $20 more
For the case I would use this: https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Rackmount-Computer-Pre-Installed-RSV-R4000/dp/B0091IZ1ZG and take off the rackmount ears.
Rose will has a 4u 15 bay drive for under $150 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0091IZ1ZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_T5IyCbJBT0PF1
I don't know of any type of cable as what you are explaining. It looks to me you just need a USB extender.
Otherwise unlikely, but there is this type of adapter. I haven't had issues with power personally.
Asked about it in another thread in another sub, was shown a thing, enjoy.
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Converter-Adapter-Desktops/dp/B06XP5R449/ref=pd_sim_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B06XP5R449&amp;pd_rd_r=7DF06RTN4AGB0EES3W2V&amp;pd_rd_w=npOXa&amp;pd_rd_wg=E3yd5&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=7DF06RTN4AGB0EES3W2V
Basically, anything from a name brand (ASUS, LG, Samsung, ect) in your price point will work well. I have tried to buy cheaper ones before and had them get to me broken.
This DVD drive should work well for you.
> under $50
Easy
> 3-4 3.5" drive bays
Easy
> can fit (or be modded for) one optical drive
Damn. Making my job a bit difficult, there.
This is the closest I can find. It looks acceptable imo, but I'd change the fans if you don't like the red LED's.
Your options open up a lot if you're willing to get a plastic panel instead of glass for what it is that you want under $50.
If you're willing to do plastic, this might work. Much more traditional.
http://www.amazon.com/Puget-Systems-Universal-Acrylic-Brace/dp/B019ZZQVK8
https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Extension-Cable-Length-PH-CB-CMBO_WT/dp/B01G7VOYYS
:)
You could probably roll with a similar Ryzen 7 build that I have, I think it came together quite well. I'll edit this when I'm not on mobile with my pcpartpicker. I like the Corsair Air 540 as a nice case that's easy to put together for first time builders.
May I ask what you're using this PC for? A Threadripper is great for workstation stuff but gaming you're not really getting much benefit from it over that. You also have room to upgrade in 2019 to the 7nm Zen 2 stuff if you really want to flex.
EDIT: Something like this is my build. Some of the parts aren't popping up and I hunted around for sales a bit, so I think it came around to $2000 when I built it over a month or two. The Corsair Air 540 isn't showing up properly because it's out of stock right now, but I love this case. The layout is really nice for being not too obnoxious but still showcasing your parts. There's no PSU or HDD bays clogging up the viewing window. It's very nice, and you seem to like Corsair from your parts list.
Anyway, I don't really imagine a regular, non-professional use case that demands a Threadripper. I know you said you don't like saving money just for the sake of saving money, but think of it as investing that extra money into higher end parts elsewhere. I don't even have 3.5" HDDs since SSDs have gone down in price so much. Why not skip the Threadripper and grab a second M.2 drive, among other niceties? Hell, the price difference from a 2950x and 2700x gets you from a 1080 Ti to a 2080 Ti, if gaming is your primary use case (and you should probably wait for benchmarks to see what's going on with that anyway).
And I'm not going to completely shill AMD, but you can totally just wait and see what Intel and AMD have planned for the rest of the year (and you should, because benchmarks are the most important thing to wait for).
TL;DR: You don't need a 2950x for gaming but maybe if you're doing hardcore video editing and 3D modeling or something it'd be nice (ie: if this is a workstation that you game on now, not a gaming PC), also, wait for benchmarks.
Pretty much any generic and cheap USB sound card that has mainline linux support. For example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
there's really alot of options, and your wants and needs maybe different then mine, but this is what i would recommend and the cheapest price point i would go new(2nd hand is always an option for me) is $70
Phanteks Eclipse Series P400
NZXT S340
Corsair Carbide 270R
So let me get this straight.
Let's say I want to do what you suggested. I go ahead and buy the box set, which is $82. Let's say I don't own a TV or DVD player (you'd be surprised how many people don't). That's another $24.99 for the DVD player and another $150 for the TV. That's great, but that still doesn't let me watch it on a tablet or phone. For that I would need a computer, but not just any computer, one with a CD-ROM (computers don't have them anymore) or let's just say an external DVD drive, which would be around $25.
OK, now we have our digital copies. The problem is, unless you have a phone with a LOT of space, you can't have all 6 seasons on your phone. You're gonna need to store them somewhere in the cloud, and I won't get into pricing for storage. All of this just so that I can watch it on my phone on the way to work.
Or I could just spend 50 bucks for now.
I use this one to great effect: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8. I second the recommendation of u/DrCoolHands for an audio transformer. Check out "Easy Digi" on ebay.
Can you try testing the sound card separately on the RPi? See if you can record something with an external mic. Could be a software/driver issue.
Aside from checking cable connections, try something like a USB sound card like this one. The static could be coming from EM interference on your motherboard's built in sound processor.
Corsair Spec-01. About 3100/-.
https://www.amazon.in/dp/B00I6BJATW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hGAaCb3GFZ1PQ
Or if you prefer those window ones.
CHIPTRONEX GX2000 https://www.amazon.in/dp/B078Z6Q1CL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_tKAaCb9K7ZGM1
Dude I love you for that meme, we say that at work all the time lol.
MB: MSI whatever whatever
RAM: Good shit, DDR4
CPU: i7 7700 babyyyy
GPU: R9 390 MSI
Case
1TB SSD from Intel, dunno which I forget
750w Corsair PS
CPU Cooler
144hz Display
Ok here are my suggestions based on the prices of Amazon Mexico.
CPU
The i3-6100 and the Pentium G4400 are both decent choices for your daughter. Al though the i3 is more powerful, the Pentium will still run low-end games decently, if you don't wish for groundbreaking performance. The i5 is probably overkill. Alsom you probably don't need a CPU cooler.
Motherboard
https://www.amazon.com.mx/Gigabyte-GA-H110M-H-Motherboard-Chipset-PCI-Express/dp/B01FB6TEMC/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478960159&amp;sr=1-1-catcorr&amp;keywords=h110
Doesn't look too expensive, but will serve its job. If you can find a cheaper one, you can go for it instead.
RAM
https://www.amazon.com.mx/Kingston-HX421C14FB2-Memoria-Hyperx-DDR4-2133Mhz/dp/B01D8U27YU/ref=sr_1_3?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478960538&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=8GB+RAM
Looks like the cheapest 8GB stick of DDR4 RAM, if you find cheaper from renowned company sticks, go for them.
Storage
You may want to either go for a 1TB HDD+ 120GB SSD, 1TB HDD, or a 240GB SSD. I do not think that 120GB SSD is going to be large enough for your daughter, as she will need to store Windows, games, software, and documents in it.
GPU
https://www.amazon.com.mx/Sapphire-460-2-GB-GDDR5-HDMI-PCI-E-Tarjeta-11257-00-20-G/dp/B01J1M4H8I/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478961001&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=rx+460
The RX 460 is your best choice. This one is a 2GB version, but it will run the likes of Dota well.
Power Supply
That power supply is actually decent, but this one is a better option, and doesn't look too expensive.
Case
I like this Corsair one, but you may want a cheaper case. I haven't found great cases cheaper than this one myself.
Peripherals+Monitor
That monitor is good. The peripherals are your choice since that's personal preference. The monitor should come with a DVI cable if I'm not mistaken.
I already have this cabinet and corsair vs 650 psu. Will this two be ok for vega?
Using the USB-c to USB connector that came with my Pixel,
https://www.amazon.com/Official-Adapter-Type-C-MacBook-Google/dp/B071G6NLHJ/ref=sr_1_25?keywords=pixel+usb&qid=1566946160&s=electronics&sr=1-25
and a Sound adaptor: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I designed and printed the PO faceplates to beef them up a little and protect the buttons from getting pressed while packed away. I made the plate out of cardboard and felt so I could velcro attach the units however I wanted.
Thanks for the compliment!
(Edited to add info)
Can I use this cable adapter and this usb splitter? I'm planning to get a speedstacks timer and I want to connect it to my laptop (only unified audio jack)
If you don't want to get a whole new Mobo, you can just get a USB audio dongle. Sabrent makes one for cheap -
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_e8B3Ab2B1HSAJ/u/whoyawn
I have used this one on PS4 and it worked just fine: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=pd_sim_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00IRVQ0F8&amp;pd_rd_r=DGZYMY3WMGHXQ4H9EF7N&amp;pd_rd_w=eHLu0&amp;pd_rd_wg=TZuaa&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=DGZYMY3WMGHXQ4H9EF7N
If you only have two Volcas I'd just get a cheap sound card like this, it'll do what you need. An audio interface will cost probably as much as one Volca, and honestly no one listening will be able to hear the difference in quality between a sound card and an audio interface.
You won't be able to record both at once, but it's easy enough to just record them one at a time. I use one of these to record my whole setup, including synths, drum machine, and modular. For a while I kinda wanted to get a multitrack recording setup going, but then I realized it would be a waste of money and effort. Think about it: even when you have every piece of gear going at once, you only have two hands and one brain. How often do you find yourself tweaking both volcas at once?
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
buy as many as you want.
Maybe you need one of these.
It's an optical port, which means it uses light instead of electricity to send the signal. There are converters for those, but they tend to be more expensive than just getting a sound card.
You can get a cheap usb sound card pretty easily. Here's one for less than $7.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
You can buy something cheap like this or more expensive like this. Both of them will work.
One is a sound card, may have a different EQ and perhaps a very small AMP included. The other is a Digital to Analog Converter plus an Amplifier.
Hope this helps.
If you want to do WiFi streaming, install $3.50 BubbleUPnP on the phone and use the Windows 10 built-in DLNA streaming. If you're on Ubuntu you can install pulseaudio-dlna and use it as output from sound settings. I'm sure there's something for Mac as well.
For USB, what you're looking for is called a USB DAC. If you're really strapped for cash and don't have fancy tastes in sound quality, or quality headphones, then one of these $5-7 puppies will take care of it. Quality is touch and go, some may be DOA and need replacing, but they'll get the job done. You can also go for a $20 Signstek (PCM2704), but I wouldn't recommend more expensive ones without knowing what headphones you're using and what you want from them.
If you do, I can recommend the $40 FiiO K1, $65 SMSL SD793-II or $75 FiiO E10K, but if you do that you should also look into putting $50-200 into decent headphones and you're probably not looking for that.
Whatever you do DO NOT get USB headphones. Decent ones are expensive, cheap ones are absolute crap. A $5 DAC like above and a $25 pair of Sennheiser HD202 will be better and can be replaced separately or even taken apart and repaired if they break.
heya, really just wanted to tell you that you can completely rid of the background mic static if you use something like this (just for the mic).
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
helped me tremendously.
It's pretty straight forward:
It's a common issue with PC mounted audio jacks.
Best way to to get a USB adapter like https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=pd_bxgy_63_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=PMD2SF85Z15K025JSB8H
I had the same problem with my modmic but this cleaned the input up.
If you can fix it easily, nice job, but don't spend too much time trying to get it to work. user badchromosome referred me to this : Just another USB dongle!
Just to add to your options :)
It really is worth it. I couldn't get my audio to work again after 10.11.4, and it was really frustrating. Having this work equally well was really fantastic and worth every penny, especially knowing if something happens to my setup, I won't ever need to try and get audio to work. It'll just work :)
I picked an external one simply because it was super cheap, well-rated, and I had heard audio samples with the modmic.
I didn't use an internal because I have a mini-ITX case and had zero room.
Here is the amazon link to the one I am using - if you decide on this, make sure to get the (AU-MMSA) model as it provides enough voltage while newer models do not.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499826634&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=sabrent+usb+sound+card
You have to be careful, if you're not gonna plug it into a TV, because it only has HDMI since it's supposed to be a console hybrid, you need to buy a USB sound card like this , a Keyboard and mouse, and a USB hub, so you'll have more slots free. On the other hand, if you're looking for a TV steam box, you should be fine with just a controller.
It is possible that you need a USB adapter. I have a video coming out next week that is very in depth about getting CStimer to work with a stackmat.
You can buy one cheap here: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522278823&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb+audio&amp;dpID=51QY728wxCL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
For combined audio ports this will likely solve your issue.
Open back - SHP9500s + VModa BoomPro
Closed back - Takstar Pro82 + Microphone
USB Dongle
Amazon used for convenience. Shop around for best pricing. Reviews for everything mentioned available on YouTube.
I'd recommend the Thermaltake Core V21. If you're taking it as a carry on, I'd either disassemble the whole machine and then reassemble once you reach your destination or exercise extreme caution. I think the dimensions of the case fit the category as suitable for a carry on, but double check.
Some that you could take a look at:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PDDMN6S/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;th=1
Just in case the link gets mucked up: Thermaltake Core V21 SPCC Micro ATX Cube Computer Chassis
I currently have the case for a server I have running. Mainly got it too because they are stackable so they are a cool way to have a semi stacking server.
Personnally, I'd rather chose one of these cases for the same price, or even less:
All have windows, all look good, and all can be fitted with 3 exhaust fans, eliminating the main problem of the masterbox 5 with its single exhaust.
But hey, that's my opinion, it might be wrong.
Yeah unfortunately there's really not a lot out there. I found this Puget one that looks like it would snap if I tried using it with my 980Ti, and this one which I think is fugly, and probably also wont fit.
Solution!
I have this http://www.amazon.com/Puget-Systems-Universal-Acrylic-Brace/dp/B019ZZQVK8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464972289&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=GPU+support
Holy sag alive, I would try to straighten up that GPU
If you can spare $20, something like a PCI support brace would be ideal, but anything semi-straight that can be placed on the case floor and reaches from the floor to the GPU would also work
here
This is an option.
Apparently, the braces can be purchased seperately!
PCPartPicker Part List
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor | $199.00 @ B&H
Motherboard | Asus PRIME X570-PRO ATX AM4 Motherboard | $248.89 @ OutletPC
Memory | G.Skill Trident Z RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory | $125.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Intel 660p Series 1.02 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $94.99 @ Adorama
Video Card | EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11 GB Black Video Card | $1049.99 @ Newegg
Case | Deepcool MATREXX 70 ADD-RGB 3F ATX Mid Tower Case | $106.98 @ Newegg
Power Supply | SeaSonic FOCUS Gold 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply | $95.99 @ SuperBiiz
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1951.83
| Mail-in rebates | -$30.00
| Total | $1921.83
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-07-25 23:15 EDT-0400 |
So I went about $100 over budget, but this would be a nearly top of the line build(within reason).
The CPU is a 3600(6cores), and you could swap it to a 3700x(8cores) for $130 more. Also with the 3600 you will probably want to overclock it.
When you do overclock, you will probably want aftermarket cooling. Something like this would go with your white build:https://www.newegg.com/deepcool-captain-liquid-cooling-system/p/N82E16835856102
I have seen that cooler go on sale for $69 a few months ago too.
I picked the motherboard because it's solid, but also because it's white. Just so you're aware you can go cheaper here.
The case I swapped from a h500, because this one has 4 fans preinstalled that are RGB for $30 more. Not a big deal if you get the h500, just showing options.
If you are playing at 1440p 144hz, and can fit a 2080ti in your budget, I would.
You could also save $20 on the PSU, but I am a fan of getting nicer PSUs, especially for nicer systems. Stability/longevity is worth it for the $20.
Also to go with your white/black build you may want something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Extension-Cable-Length-PH-CB-CMBO_WT/dp/B01G7VOYYS/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3S6ACNJ1ZBJQM&amp;keywords=phanteks+cable+extension+kit&amp;qid=1564111595&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=phanteks+cab%2Caps%2C178&amp;sr=8-4
This and cooler can be added later to make your system fancy once you've used it a bit.
I had that cpu for a long time and it's kinda like upgrading to newer stuff that's all lmao.
I've never assembled my own so i just wanted to take precautions from all the horrors out there.
I've gotten phanteks cable extension
and was hoping it would go nicely with my psu and build.
I'm gonna get the Samsung one then, since the ips gsync costs double of the Samsung one.
And one more thing ( sorry ) What about case fans? Anything on that? I don't like rgb stuff but i do prefer something like just one color e.g white or blue.
I've only heard great things about the EVGA cables set. If i wasn't trying to save i'd be getting that instead of the Phanteks extensions.
&#x200B;
EDIT: I got black and going for heavy white lighting and the cables are hopefully going to add a bit more visibility inside. Plenty of colors available from Phanteks and a few from EVGA too !
With the Phanteks P400, the only cables that will be visible through the window are the 24-pin motherboard cable, CPU power cable, and GPU power cables.
Did you want a white cable kit or a black and white cable kit? Phanteks sells both:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G7VOYYS/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G7VSDO0/
Thanks man. These are the ones I used
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G7VOYYS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
You can get an almost identical set on Amazon for $30 here.
The Phanteks also includes a full set of cable combs.
It's definitely a budget system - but still way more powerful than my old laptop whose hard drive is failing. It's actually a factory refurb from the Dell outlet, I managed to grab it for just under $500 with a coupon.
They USB switch is great, no crawling under the desk. I got this one from Amazon. It's held up under front of the desk with a Velcro cable tie, stapled to the bottom of the desk. Proper cable management is coming within the next couple of weekends!
KVM switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXXQKGM/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01MXXQKGM&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=f0dedbe2-13c8-4136-a746-4398ed93cf0f&pd_rd_wg=kI7LT&pf_rd_r=FDNT0K6V7Y6BP5745F3S&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_w=nAeS6&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pd_rd_r=c1379f52-ec65-11e8-bbc4-8bb98d0238f1
&#x200B;
Helps switch my keyboard and mouse between my laptop and desktop
Here is what I use.
UGREEN USB Switch Selector 2 Computers Sharing 4 USB Devices USB 2.0 Peripheral Switcher Box Hub
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXXQKGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.nxPCbW11KDFT
Oh yeah, here is a cheaper option for the first one, didn't realize how expensive those got. http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1396147773&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+to+3.5mm
I've used this adapter in a number of situations for Macs, and it works well.
You could go with something simple like a usb soundcard, since you're not much into djing, example: http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1409712783&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+soundcard
or you could ask your friend what he used
Plugging the Helix in via USB is telling the iPad to use it as an audio interface for both ins and outs. If you only want to use the Helix for input, why don't you try a cheap USB sound card with a mic level input along with a headphone jack like this. Then you can use the headphone output on the USB card.
I wish Apple would implement mac-level audio routing. It really is super easy to pick your system level input/output device, even when the two are completely different.
I'm using the 558's so I don't think there is much of a difference this is basically what my setup looks like but with different products.http://cdn.head-fi.org/4/42/500x1000px-LL.jpg-4212849e_750524.jpeg
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MSS6CS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/Force-Channel-Dolby-Surround-Processor-Mac/dp/B003O0KICS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1418904313&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=earforce+amp
I use the audio adapter with the Earforce amp because without it the ps4 has a hard time recognizing that a mic is plugged in. So far the quality is really good, I can hear footsteps and the TLOU had a great sound. I had a similar problem with a headphone jack except mine broke, so this was my little setup that helped me around that problem and has provided beautiful audio since February.
Agreed that the metronome could be better.
You could always just put a click track on a channel that is routed in such a way which will bypass your recording and go straight to speakers.
You could control the volume, divisions, whatever. You could put something different on the 1,5,9,13 so you always know exactly where you are.
I should probably send this idea over to Scott, haha. Now I want to see it incorporated.
Additionally, if you were to route this track to an independent sound card, say, a cheap USB Sound Card , you could then plug in a dedicated pair of speakers and have a physical metronome that you could fade in and out whenever.
Sorry, I'm not aware of any software that would do that - But you could get one of these for about $9.00. :-)
I use this with my Mac mini and it works great. You would need a usb-c adapter
If your goal is to recreate the "isolated audio components" hardware portion of Beats Audio, your best bet is to get a USB audio adapter/amp/dac. From USB, the audio signal is still digital so it literally can't be affected by electromagnetic noise inside the laptop. Prices range from ridiculously cheap to ridiculously expensive, just depending on what you want or need.
You probably won't hear any difference between an external device and your built-in headphone jack, but if you think your sound is bad then it doesn't hurt to try something else. Just don't judge your laptop's audio output based on the quality of the built-in speakers. Compare with headphones.
A USB dac will work fine. This is probably the cheapest one https://www.amazon.com/external-Adapter-Windows-Microphone-SD-CM-UAUD/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479439006&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=usb+soundcard+dac+input+output
http://www.ebay.com/itm/EASY-DIGI-Sound-Card-Interface-PSK-RTTY-SSTV-NBEMS-JT-65-PCB-KIT-/221706973853?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&amp;hash=item339ec3f29d
All you need is a few plugs to interface your sound card and rig and your good to go... less than $20 for the whole deal.
If you want an external sound card system, plug the audio in/out to this and use it as a usb setup.
http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1427246078&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=external+sound+card
Yes, you can do that.
The way I do it is I use a mixer, and I bought 4 USB sound cards, which are like $5 on Amazon. I send Skype, TS, etc to one, Games to another, music to another and mix it all via the mixer later. This gives me control over almost all my audio.
This is not the preferred solution, but it will make any mic/headset you have now work.http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001MSS6CS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1427736418&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+headphone+adapter&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41AM133RwuL&amp;ref=plSrch&amp;pi=AC_SY200_QL40
https://smile.amazon.com/desktop-computer-companion-accessories-storage/dp/B006VAD2C6/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1485367620&sr=8-6&keywords=drive+bay+cover
I have a storage drawer in a 5.25 slot similar to this thing, had one for years now.
Available on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/desktop-computer-companion-accessories-storage/dp/B006VAD2C6
Everyone suggests a little drawer
Pretty nifty, couple of my friends put Hue controllers fort heir RGB setups. Otherwise the Drawer is probably the best bet.
You might want to keep screws/zip ties and similar tools in something like this: http://www.amazon.com/desktop-computer-companion-accessories-Cosmos/dp/B006VAD2C6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1421687836&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=computer+drawer&amp;pebp=1421687842261&amp;peasin=B006VAD2C6
Besides this, that sucks. Tell your parents that you won't be able to sell these parts and see what they say.
This is what's everyone needs:
https://www.amazon.com/desktop-computer-companion-accessories-storage/dp/B006VAD2C6/ref=pd_sbs_147_4?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B006VAD2C6&amp;pd_rd_r=NERD9S5CT1JTSY7DTSTV&amp;pd_rd_w=3jukR&amp;pd_rd_wg=UwPHd&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=NERD9S5CT1JTSY7DTSTV
maybe a little drawer?
I use one of these USB switches to switch my USB hub between my Mac and PC. Works pretty well, press a button and switch monitor input.
> I understand that USB is master/slave, in that there's no way you can "sniff" usb lines.
Other way around, because it's M/S you can only sniff the protocol as a third party.
> However, how can I wire it up so that one can read/write to the hub at a time?
Yes, but you'll need a specific device for that. Note: mass storage is exactly the kind of thing you don't want to use this with due to file system consistency issues.
> I would imagine I would need to integrate a relay of some sort, but unsure of how this can be done, if at all
Yea, get another device that drives a relay with USB and then have that relay toggle the switch on the first device for you. Once you're tired of the frankenstein mess, you can either build your own integrated device to do exactly this, hope someone else builds one, or just share the filesystem over the network.
If it uses a USB dongle, you could use something like this. But I don't think there's any way to use a switcher on Bluetooth.
I had two towers (personal and client's machine) for quite a few years, and just used a KVM switch (mouse and monitor only, used the monitor inputs to handle video), but I already had the switch from the old days so it made sense to use it.
I think I'd just find a USB switch for the devices you need....
http://www.amazon.com/plugable/dp/B006Z0Q2SI?gclid=CPiR95GKrboCFUhk7AodaWAA0w
I haven't used this, it's just the first one I found in Google. There are probably lots of others out there.
Are you looking to build one from complete scratch, or are you looking to buy one that already has some of what you need(hdd trays, caddys, etc)?
for my last NAS build, I ended up getting myself a 4U chassis. A good one that I can recommend is the RSV-L4500 You can also pick something like the RSV-L4000 for something with a horizontal bay if you like. Or If you know that you want it full of Drives and are comfortable stopping at 12 hot swap bays, Rosewills RSV-L4412 would be ideal from the get go, as you wont need to replace the bays that it comes with at any point.
I ended up purchasing 3 3x5.25 to 5x3.5 bay hdd caddys for a total of 15 drives. Looks exactly like THIS
After you get the case, you can put the parts that you like in it. Just read what size motherboard fits, get an appropriate power supply for the number of drives you'll be using, get an HBA that does JBOD and can can connect to the number of drives you'll be getting, and you're good to go.
Specifically for freenas, you can put the OS on a USB and run it from there, however because Small USB tend to be hit or miss, i recommend a SATA DOM or two, plugged directly into the motherboard instead of via the HBA. Two if you want to mirror the OS. Remember, do not use any form of hardware raid when using freenas.
Edit: words.
I ordered this one and am pretty happy with it.
Rosewill 4U Server Chassis / Server Case / Rackmount Case, Metal Rack Mount Computer Case support with 15 bays & 7 Fans Pre-Installed (RSV-L4500) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0091IZ1ZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_x5PrzbJ9MRYFP
I’ve been very happy with this case: Rosewill 4U Server Chassis/Server Case/Rackmount Case, Metal Rack Mount Computer Case support with 15 bays & 7 Fans Pre-Installed (RSV-L4500) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0091IZ1ZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_g9S.Bb2HETDCB
Very quiet, looks good, well built, and ticks all your check boxes. Each “fan bay” can support 5 x 3.5” drives or it can be removed to fit 3 x 5.25 devices. I’ve currently filled it with 3 x 2.5” x 6 ICY DOCKs, giving me space for 18 x 2.5” drives in addition to 10 x 3.5” drives.
Not at all a problem! I use the Norco 4224 currently, and I love it. Previously I used the RSV-L4500 and I honestly hated that case (it's absolute hell to add a new drive to it). I just use my old motherboard and i7 4770K I retired from my gaming rig in my server, with a handful of SAS cards plugged into the HDD backplane for connectivity to them, and it works like a perfect angel. When I finally fill up all 24 bays, I'll probably buy a second one, or at least another 4U 24 hotswap bay case, and use some cards like the one I linked earlier. That way I'll only have one server that just happens to have 48 hotswap bays over two 4U cases, if that makes sense.
EDIT: I just noticed your requirement for Seagate Ironwolf drives. Not sure how you're going to pull that off when the cost of your drives is nearly equal to your entire budget. Are you dead set on those drives?
Check out a used Supermicro 4U as a starting point. If you're looking primarily at storage, I'd add 32GB of RAM to the base build and stick with the dual 6-core Xeons. Figure $700 shipped for the server, then you'll need drives.
That case will give you 24 bays which is plenty if you choose 10TB drives. 10x10TB will give you 100TB of raw storage and in raidz2, 67TB of usable space. Or 9 with a hot spare will be 60TB. Right now you can get a 10TB WD external and shuck it for $160+tax, so about $172 each = $1,720. That's a total of $2,420, which leaves some room for either a couple more drives or some other hardware.
If you want to go even cheaper, you could build up a whitebox starting with a Rosewill 4U case with 15 internal bays. Here's a breakdown:
Even cheaper is to get a used Dell R510, which only has 8 bays so you'd need to go with 12TB drives. But if you can find a good deal on an R510, it could be under $200 shipped and that leaves plenty of budget for the larger drives.
Prebuilt NAS from the likes of Synology is a huge waste of money. The ones that can transcode 1080p media properly cost upwards of $600, and that's without the storage.
For well under $600 (again excluding storage) you can build a kick-ass dual socket Xeon based server that will transcode one 4k stream without breaking a sweat, 2 would be a stretch, but maybe.
You won't even need a GPU. Just make sure your monitor has VGA input for setting up the server, and after the initial setup it can run headless. The passmark score on the 2 CPUs is over 20k which is plenty.
For more information check out https://serverbuilds.net site and Discord channel. Based on their guides I built a very capable server for under $400, and it does extremely well transcoding multiple 1080p streams simultaneously. Besides Plex Media Server it also runs all my automation like NZBget, Sonarr, Radarr, Bazarr, Tautulli, MCEBuddy (for converting 4k to 1080p,) Commskip (for removing commercials from recorded OTA programs,) and is my backup target for 4 Duplicati sources. The CPU load never goes above 50%, so I may throw all my home automation on there as well.
Case selection would depend on what you're doing. If you're planning on having one or two disks, check out the rosewill cases.
My use case is a massive storage array, along with running vms for other stuff so I went with the Rosewill RSV-L4500 15 bay case. If you're looking for a large number of drives, I do NOT recommend this case. You have to pull the thing completely out of your rack, take the lid off, then take the entire drive caddy out the front to access any of the disks. Changing out a disk is VERY difficult on this case. Rosewill does have other simpler cases with fewer storage bays you might check out.
If you plan to have a large storage array with a ton of disks, go with something like the SuperMicro 24 bay 846e16-r1200b which has hot swappable drives right out the front. It's more money, but it's worth it. Also comes with redundant power.
For the Rosewill cases, you'll have to supply your own PSU. I went with the EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G1+ which has the 1x24pin ATX connector and 2x8pin+12v connectors these server class boards require.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor | $159.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | MSI - B450-A PRO ATX AM4 Motherboard | $59.99 @ Newegg
Memory | Team - Vulcan 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $69.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Kingston - A400 240 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $39.49 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate - Barracuda 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $58.89 @ OutletPC
Video Card | MSI - Radeon RX 580 8 GB ARMOR OC Video Card | $204.89 @ OutletPC
Case | Cougar - MX330 ATX Mid Tower Case | $46.98 @ B&H
Power Supply | Corsair - CXM 550 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $59.89 @ OutletPC
Wireless Network Adapter | Asus - PCE-AC51 PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | $29.89 @ OutletPC
Keyboard | Razer - Blackwidow Tournament Edition Wired Gaming Keyboard | $58.90 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $848.90
| Mail-in rebates | -$60.00
| Total | $788.90
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-11-21 00:15 EST-0500 |
Here is the monitor I recommend:
https://www.microcenter.com/product/508128/ha230-23-full-hd-75hz-vga-hdmi-freesync-led-monitor
Here is the mousepad I recommend:
https://www.amazon.com/VicTsing-Extended-31-5×15-75×0-12-Computer-Water-Resistant/dp/B0794WBPHK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542777401&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=gaming+mousepad
So this should all be plenty for his intentions.
AMD’s Ryzen lineup has more cores than intel and tends to be a much better “bang for the buck”
8GB of high speed ram
Instead of a GTX 1060 or 1070, I went with an RX580 to save money. It has very equivalent performance as the 1060, and even better in some areas.
I added a WiFi card to allow for wireless connectivity, which isn’t necessary if you plan to wire your connection.
A nice CherryMX Switch keyboard.
A 2TB Hard Drive for games and a 240GB SSD for Windows. (Allows for faster boot times and a smoother experience overall.)
A good looking case that has a glass side panel on one end.
And a 75hz monitor that is a steal at the moment. I actually have one of these myself and it is amazing for its price, I’m very satisfied. Only downside is it doesn’t ship with an HDMI cable, only VGA so make sure you have a spare.
And of course a large mousepad, not necessary but helps.
If your son plans on using a mic, he needs a USB splitter which is super cheap and you can get off of Amazon for ~$10.
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542777817&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=3.5mm+usb+splitter&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41zp99SXYrL&amp;ref=plSrch
This build should get the job done for your son;)
I know it’s a little out of budget, but the extra money is worth it.
Edit: I also recommend purchasing another case fan for $5-10 as this only comes with 1 preinstalled.
I use this and it works really well! I have the same set up as you!
And yes I’m on 5.0.0
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N905VOY?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Yep but you're probably cheaper off buying a cheap usb sound card for like 5-10€
Edit: the purpose of the sound card is to just sort out the interference coming from the PC and send a clean signal to the device. This doesn't require a 400€ AMP or a DAC.
Sort of just smoothing out the "bumps".
Something like this can do the job.
Audio processing inside a power hungry computer is like holding a concert on an F1 track while a race is happening next to you.
Your least expensive option is something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N905VOY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495292448&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=usb+to+3.5mm+jack+audio+adapter&amp;psc=1
The headphone jack that plugs into the top of the Vive HMD is for outgoing audio, not the incoming mic. You will need to get a USB adaptor
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B06XP5R449/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
&#x200B;
This is what I used, plugs into the super-secret USB port on the Vive HMD, its hiding behind the cover where the wires go.
Cheers mate
You said your audio jack is broken. Can you buy a cheap USB to stereo out adapter and use that with normal speakers or headphones?
There are apps like SoundWire but I don't if anything like that will have low enough latency for gaming.
I made a cable for my FT-450 for digital modes and I think the whole thing cost me 20-30 bucks. I used the design here and then switched back and forth between Windows and Linux before settling on fldigi/flrig/wsjtx on Linux. The most expensive component was the USB soundcard dongle (this one ought to work). At some point I will probably invest in a Signalink so I can get some finer control over audio-out levels (as opposed to doing everything in the software audio mixers), but this works well enough that I'm in no big hurry.
edit: words and a link here and there.
I just grabbed one of these when i first got my POs. it works just fine. https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
Try a USB soundcard like this one
Get a USB audio adapter like this and the usb extension from htc here and plus that into your vives extra usb slot.
You can't force it to use a device that it does not think exists.
I have a similar problem. I use a cheap USB->Audio Headphone adapter and just select it in the Sound panel of System Preferences.
I have this mobo. I ordered this USB sound thing because I'm cheap.
Link: http://amzn.com/B00IRVQ0F8 I bought one of these, fixes it right up. If you're looking for higher end you'll want to look at the different PI-DAC projects like hifiberry.com.
If you just need a cheap way to connect the mic you already have, you can buy USB sound devices for next to nothing. I realize this is an amazon US link, but I'm not familiar with your online retailers :P I'm sure you can find them without too much trouble.
Obviously they won't have the same quality as a blue snowball, but it could hold you over.
Imo, the best case for the money is the Phanteks Enthoo Pro.
http://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Enthoo-Chassis-Window-PH-ES614P_BK/dp/B00K6S1B3Q
PH-ES614P right up front stock and room for one at the top
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor |-
CPU Cooler | *Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | £84.99 @ Amazon UK
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-G1.SNIPER Z97 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | £128.83 @ Amazon UK
Memory | Kingston Savage 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory | £114.82 @ Amazon UK
Storage | Crucial MX100 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | £51.99 @ Amazon UK
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | £63.00 @ Amazon UK
Video Card | *Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card | £289.99 @ Amazon UK
Case | *Corsair 450D ATX Mid Tower Case | £93.95 @ Amazon UK
Power Supply | *Corsair 860W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | £179.50 @ Amazon UK
Operating System | *Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) | £72.99 @ Amazon UK
Other| Logitech C920 HD Webcam| £48.00
Other| Blue Microphones 2070 Yeti Blackout Tri-Capsule USB Microphone| £110.00
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | £1238.06
| *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria |
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-01-22 17:17 GMT+0000 |
Things I changed:
Processor cooler:
While the Corsair H100i is great (I own one myself), the NZXT Kraken X61 is just better in sound levels and performance. It's bigger as well and will not fit in all the cases.
Motherboard:
The Gaming 5 is extremely overpriced at amazon. I'd not recommend it as it does not offer any great features for that price.
The Gigabyte GA-G1.Sniper Z97 is a good alternative. Decent overclocking and great onboard audio configuration. If overclocking is more important the Asrock Z97 Extreme4 and the Asus Maximus VII Hero. The Extreme4 is cheaper as it doesn't offer a lot of the (unecessary?) features Asus offers.
If just overall features is what you want the Asus Z97-Pro(WiFi-ac).
RAM:
Changed to a similar priced RAM kit. It runs at the same speed, but this one has lower timings and still fit in your red/black theme.
SSD:
The M500 SSD is becoming outdated. It's already replaced by the MX100 series. They are a little more expensive, but use better chips and will give you better read/write speeds and overall endurance.
HDD:
The Black series from Western Digital are really overpriced and I don't recommend paying so much for it. For just 60% of the price of the black you can get a good HDD from Seagate.
Case:
While the 450D is not a bad case, there are plenty of better cases out there. Offering more features for a cheaper or similar price. The Corsair Spec-03 Red is a gamer focused case for a good price. It's sturdy and comes standard with 1 red led fan!
The Fractal Define R5 window just recently released, so it's not the cheapest. However it does offer a huge amount of features for the price. Sound dampening material on the inside of the panels is one! It's really modular as well!
The NZXT S340 is a great priced and slick looking case. It doesn't give you the option of using 5.25" / optical drives.
The Phanteks Enthoo Pro is regarded as the best case for the money. It offers the most features for it's price, which is still fairly high.
The NZXT H440 is another great looking case from NZXT, but a bit more expensive than the S340. It's still a great case though.
Power supply:
Similar story to the case. It's a great power supply, but fairly expensive. There is a non "i" version of the 860 which I'd recommend. It doesn't offer corsair link, but the software has not much of an value IMO. It's a lot cheaper this way.
The EVGA1000 P2 is an amazing power supply with a huge amount of wattage for a good price. Unfortunaly there is not 750w / 850w version of it.
The Seasonic SS760xp2 is almost identical to the Corsair AX760 for a very similar price.
You could save yourself some money by getting a 80+ Gold certified power supply. They only have a 2% lower efficiency.
The EVGA G2 850w is the one to go to. Great price for it's features, which semi-passive cooling is one of!
Hey man, I'll never turn away a free opinion or suggestion!
-Ram is fully pushed in
-GPU fan stays on
--I can unplug the output from a laptop's HDMI that is functioning and plug into the desktop build, and get nothing. Suspect the desktop build just has nothing to report... Motherboard ?
I'm pretty familiar with fixing/messing with computers, but admittedly this is my first build. The build is as follows:
-Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro (new)
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K6S1B3Q/
-Motherboard: ASUS Z10PE-D16 WS (new)
https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16813132416
-CPUs: 2x E5-2697 v3 (Ebay – used from Canada)
-PSU: EVGA Supernova 1000 PQ (new)
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BVQKWYH/
-Coolers: 2x Noctua NH-D9L (new)
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QCEWTAW/
-GPU: MSI Radeon RX650 (used but tested working on my other server)
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B072J422CZ/
-RAM: 4 x Hynix HMA42GR7MFR4N-TF 16GB DDR4-2133 2Rx4 ECC REG Server Memory (new)
At this point, the motherboard will get juice, the power and reset button will light up, I get two LEDs on the mobo lighting up (one is the onboard administrator/controller flashing LED), and the GPU fan will spin up mildly, but will not get anything as far as BIOS posting out of HDMI or DisplayPort on the GPU to a good screen. I get a power dip when I hit the case’s power button (I live in an older 1960’s home), but nothing comes of it.
I’ve went through the cabling and I think I’ve got everything right. I’ve tried single CPU, 1-4 sticks of RAM, etc, and I’m drawing a blank. I bought 4x 16gb of RAM that met the specs per the manual, but weren't on the manufacturer's short "compatible list". So I bought two more sticks of compatible RAM per ASUS, and they still don't allow boot.
Found the Aero 800 on amazon, 80 bucks
Alot of people on this sub have the NZXT S340 10 bucks cheaper than the Aero 800..
Newegg has the black version for $70, After rebate, it comes down to 60
Newegg's NZXT S340
Not sure if this qualifies as inexpensive to you, but, I think this is a great value. They are very stylish. Most cases that look this nice will be in the $150 range.
If you're spending $750 dollars on a graphics card, you may want to spend more than $50 on a case. Zalman is pretty well known for low quality products, it's one of the reasons their products are so cheap to buy. The white NZXT S340 is on sale for like $70, it's a fantastic case and usually about $110. If you already have the case, it should fit, and I recommend getting some better case fans if you are using the stock case fans, a 1080 ti will introduce a lot more heat into your case.
As crammond94 commented, SD media launchers are not a perfect solution, even the best SD cards will still lag during demanding sequences. Sometimes it is hard to see the lag, but it is very apparent in choppy audio.
One thing you could do for minimal investment is to burn your own miniDVDs, use your SD media Launcher to load swiss, swap disks to the burned disk, and launch it via swiss without the need for a modchip. Burned miniDVDs generally work as well as the real thing. If you go this route, burn as slowly as possible, or you may get errors on the disk.
Other than that, the most convenient method would be to mod a Wii, install USBLoaderGX and Nintendont, and load gamecube games from an external hard drive. Wiis with broken disk drives are on ebay all the time for ~$15-$20.
You can get vinyl wrap from a number of locations online, often used for automotive panels. I had leftovers from a furniture project that used a black wood grain vinyl wrap for drawer fronts. Amazon link below. I just used that because it was handy. It worked great, but if I did it again, I might search for a faux carbon fiber print, which looks really cool for ... anything.
I just cut a 1/2" plywood sheet to 24" x 24". Drilled and countersunk the mounting holes for the wall studs, and drilled holes for 1/4-20 threaded inserts for the VESA mounting plate. Big wood screws probably would have worked too, but the threaded inserts seemed like a good idea. Then I sanded the panel, vacuumed it thoroughly to get the dust off, then applied the vinyl wrap, which is just a big sticker. You never want to completely remove the peel away backing from the vinyl sheet before applying it. It is too sticky and easily ruined if it sticks to itself or you try to peel it off of another surface. Peel the backing sheet about 4", stick it to one end of the panel surface, then slowly and carefully rub the sheet flat across the panel while pulling the backing sheet away progressively. You only get one chance to apply it correctly. Trying to pull it off of the panel will likely tear up the plywood. Then use an Xacto knife to trim any excess, and wrap the ends like a present. Finally, mount it to the wall with long drywall screws, attached the VESA plate, and hang the chassis.
I taped the DVD drive to the power supply with this, which is thick, super strong, and yet removable without shreading or leaving any gunk or glue behind. That tape also works fantastically for mounting LED strips, the best that I have tried so far. It's rubbery and doesn't feel super sticky and can be pulled off fairly easily - at first. After about a minute, it bonds really well to any surface, then takes a lot of effort to pull up again. Great stuff !!
Server before a recent upgrade
Server before a recent upgrade
My old system was rather simple and straight forward. It was a dual Xeon workstation motherboard (standard ATX) installed in a Rosewill 4U Server Chassis. The center rail perfectly fit the radiators of two Corsair H55s. The bracket works extremely well for the LGA1366.
Server after a hasty upgrade (not finished)
Center Rail
Back
Front
I upgraded my system about two weeks ago. Not finished yet - but it's functional. Since the new motherboard was an oversized EATX (13.2 x 13 inches) - I had to modify the case to get everything to fit. I noticed with 18 sticks of memory, the heat was a bit higher than the previous build. So, I have the radiators sandwiched with fans on both sides. This increased the airflow significantly and the fans are 120mm, so rather quiet.
However, with the fan sandwich, the center rail needed to be pushed back 1.5 inches. In the photo, I only pushed the rail back one inch so far. One of the sandwiches fit (the rear one), but you will notice that the one closest to camera isn't yet fitting. So, I need to pull everything out and drill new holes a half inch closer to the front.
The other thing I didn't realize is that when mounting standard ATX power supplies with an EATX motherboard, the chassis will need to have the power supply suspended above the motherboard and not on the side. You will see that the motherboard takes up a portion of the area where the power supply should go. So, I cut a hole above the i/o plate and moved the power supply mounting bracket that came with the case. Surprisingly, it holds extremely well and has nearly 1 inch of clearance between the power supply and one of the CPU water blocks and memory.
I also plan on 3d printing a shroud that will channel the air from the center rail out into the giant hole in the back and adding two 90mm fans as a proper exhaust.
It's a Corsair Carbide Series Air 540
The black and yellow jacks are "Rear" and "Center/Sub" connections, respecitvely. Sound Blaster has two external USB sound cards that have these connections:
http://us.creative.com/p/sound-blaster/sound-blaster-x-fi-surround-5-1-pro
http://us.creative.com/p/sound-blaster/sound-blaster-omni-surround-5-1
Amazon links:
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Blaster-Surround-System-SB1095/dp/B0044DEDCA
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Performance-Headphone-Integrated-Microphone/dp/B00EZT7RE4
As for differences, you just have to take a closer look at features/specs and see what you want/need/future proof vs. prices. Good luck!
An entire generation of Soundblaster internal and external sound cards support Dolby Digital Live decoding. Here's a super cheap example: https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Performance-Headphone-Integrated-Microphone/dp/B00EZT7RE4
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Blaster-Surround-System-SB1095/dp/B0044DEDCA
Item|Price
:--|:--
CORSAIR Vengeance Blue LED 2X8GB 3000MHz | $150
Corsair Vengeance LPX 4GB 2400MHz~~ | $25
Skynex 4GB 2400MHz | $20
Two RGB strips and controller|$1024 pin extention | $5
Sound Blaster Omni | $50
[
Aigo c5 x 8(1 new) and controller (only have 1 controller)] (https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAE866X91681) |$8 each(New)Aigo Rainbow Ring | $5
(New never used, pulled from case)Fractal fans x 2 | $8 each
here you go
I have the Sapphire Nitro + & it hasn't peaked over 60 Celsius for me but I also have a management of airflow, 5 intake fans & 2 exhaust fans. Also undervolting the cards will help out with temp management. I haven't had a problem with mine. Here's my case if you're interested $50 @ amazon https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Carbide-SPEC-02-Tower-Gaming/dp/B00I0MKMG2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473953635&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=spec+02
Uuhhmmm... this?
Story Time
&#x200B;
Initially, I started with this case ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Q2Z11QE ) as I was thinking of throwing something together like what you're talking about. Then my "project" began to grow.
That's when I ended up ordering this case instead ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005KQ66ZC ). That said, my server consists of a Threadripper 2990WX with an AIO water cooler. Well...this case wasn't made for that. So my father in law machined a hole in the top to mount the radiator on the top of the case like a blower on a car. This worked VERY well for a couple of weeks, but I just wasn't happy with it.
Finally, I ordered this case ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091IZ1ZG ), to which I was able to fit everything inside of with a few extra bolts that still need to be trimmed. Here's a pic of the inside of mine and the temp 32 cores runs at ( https://imgur.com/tek9ID0 - https://imgur.com/vEPFLv5 ), do excuse the dust.
&#x200B;
As far as SSD's go, just do something like this ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GMGZBP0 ). Saves space and doesn't hurt them as they only take a single HDD slot. Taping them to the side of the case doesn't hurt either if you don't care about the looks. Also, I want to boast about these fans for a min ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KFCRF1A ). Move a lot of air and aren't as loud as you'd think. The 120mm variant is a good bit louder, but still well worth it.
How hard do you think it would be to move the t7500 parts into this case? ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0091IZ1ZG/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1517489109&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=rosewill+rackmount+case&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41Hs6LEhJ5L&amp;ref=plSrch )
Before I switched to a Rosewill RSV4500 I was using an Azza Solano 1000R full tower case. It had a ton of 5.25" bays and I used some cheap Cooler Master 4 in 3 bays to stuff it full of drives. It worked fairly well and I didn't need to modify the case at all. This was handy because I reused it down the line after migrating Unraid to the Rosewill.
The Rosewill case was the cheapest rackmount case ($80) I could get that fit my drives. I have considered upgrading to a hotswap-type of case like the Norcos but so far it has been more economical to just upgrade my drives to larger capacity rather than expand my capacity to hold drives. I swap drives so rarely that the hotswap feature isn't necessary. The Rosewill is annoying to work with when I have to swap a drive though (and I've removed the center partition).
Your custom built is pretty overpriced.
The sum of all those equals about $850. I'll give you the benefit of the doubt and add $150 to cover taxes/fees/price adjustments. The new total is $1000.
Good prices on the other things you have for sale though.
Corsair Spec-01 $59 from Newegg | Has a big side window and removable dust filters on the PSU vent and front.
Corsair 200R $54.99 from Amazon | Doesn't have a side window but has two dust filters.
Cougar Archon $39 from Newegg | Side window, two dust filters.
Those are some off the top of my head. Keep in mind that Demcifilter sells removable magnetic dust filters as well, and they can tailor them to suit specific cases if none of the ones I mentioned interest you. You can also make them yourself with pantyhose.
Corsair 200R. http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Carbide-Series-Compact-CC-9011023-WW/dp/B009GXZ8MM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1410713650&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=200r
Vertical807 - Flight Sim Addons/Specs/Sim Settings - November 28th, 2017
Peripherals:
Mouse: Senlleo Gaming Mouse
Keyboard: Sonfan Backlit Gaming Keyboard
Controls: Logitech G940 Flight System
Head Tracking: Track IR5 with hat-clip
Headset: Sades SA902B 7.1 Channel Virtual USB Surround Stereo
USB Hub: AmazonBasics 7 Port USB 2.0 Hub
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Computer Specs
CPU: Intel I5-6500, default clock
GPU: Gigabyte GTX1060 G1 Gaming
Motherboard: ASUS Micro ATX DDR4 LGA 1151 Motherboards H110M-E
Case: Corsair Carbide Series 200R Compact ATX
RAM:
Ballistix Sport LT 8GB Single DDR4 2400 MT/s
Kingston HyperX FURY Black 8GB 2133MHz DDR4
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Prepard3d_v4.1
Scenery:
FlightBeam:
KSFOHD, KDEN, KIAD, KPHX
FSDreamTeam
KFLL
, KDFW
, KMEM
, KLAX
, KLAS
, KORD
ImagineSim
KATL
Taxi-2-Gate
KMCO, KSTL
DRZEWIECKI DESIGN
NY AIRPORTS V2 X, NEW YORK CITY X V2, MIAMI CITY X
FlyTampa
KTPA-Rebooted
, KMDW
, TNCM full-extended
, Toronto
SunSkyJet
KPHL
LatinVFR
KEVW
, TJSJ
, KMIA
, KRDU
Orbx
Global Base
, Vector
, OpenLC
, TreesHD
Turbulent Designs
TerraFlora
Weather:
[ActiveSky for P3d_V4 with Cloud Art](
Running Global Configuration!
Aircraft:
PMDG
PMDG 737 Base Package
, PMDG 737 Expansion
, PMDG 777 Base Package
, PMDG 777 Expansion
TFDI
B717-200
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
P3D Settings and Visual Modifications:
PTA
ENVTEX
Settings and textures are in Thopat preset .rar file! Follow them as closely as possible!
-Thopat Preset
Game settings
[My P3D.cfg](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1N0KbATTwi9WJndWUF-F1sR0pAvEK1lsz/view?usp=sharing)
[Traffic](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1q2i8E89NFQMSXqWk4_1cL6aFL1kfOh2L/view?usp=sharing)
[Display](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nAWVmQbWbsXmfLDbLp8v3V1G460hyGVp/view?usp=sharing)
[Lighting](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KvNhElk211apWxDuNlZ2Mda6v0zfK7px/view?usp=sharing)
[Realism](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gxyTBU7CPe66Mzw5eAj-TlcPmmLFrAJp/view?usp=sharing)
[Weather](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1AHuUMnoN0d0zip3Pcpw7G5eBcwzgrYbP/view?usp=sharing)
[World](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BNSaLIxPmn4TrZmJXzmwvxh_bLTnvCO0/view?usp=sharing)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I also do live-streaming on YouTube every once in awhile, check out my channel if you'd like!
Virtual Airlines:
Delta Virtual
United Virtual
Southwest Virtual
FedEx Virtual
Looks like a pretty solid build! The full tower case may be abit overkill but otherwise, it looks good! I'd segest getting a 200R or a 400R
Oh yeah, I was just getting it closer to your build cost. The 200r is a great case. If wanted to spend a little more the 300r is only £6 more than the 200r on Amazon.
The only other highly rated model with optical drive slots in your budget range (that I know of) is the Corsair 200R. I absolutely love my R5, but it will likely cost you around $100.
A 780 is a pretty beefy graphics card that can handle almost anything thrown at it, including WoW. I've never played WoW, so I can't speak from first hand experience, but I would be shocked if that card had issues running 1080p 60fps on ultra.
Given that you already have the GPU and don't need an OS, your budget is more than ample enough to build a high quality rig.
Do you live near a microcenter? If so, here is a link to their current catalog. They are renowned for having excellent deals on hardware.
A couple links to consider:
Total: $492
If you can fit an SSD like the Crucial MX100 ($73 @ microcenter), it is a glorious addition. Super quick boot and load times.
EDIT:
Found a better deal on the CX500 on Newegg - $50, plus a $20 prepaid visa card
Also some cheaper G.SKILL RAM on Newegg as well - $58
Cases are really a matter of preference, the companies that I recommend are Cooler Master, Corsair, Fractal Design and NZXT. As long it supports ATX mother boards you will be fine.
I'll recommended 2,
The first one: Corsair 200r, not flashy but high quality and a great price.
http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=N82E16811352020&amp;nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-Mobile&amp;cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-Mobile-_-pla-_-Computer+Cases-_-N82E16811352020&amp;gclid=CjwKEAiA-5-kBRDylPG5096R8mASJABqEdm4yKexU2p0ldX1CGv-9IKLUOuTNnk6LdJigDit-nieNBoCxBDw_wcB
The second is the Fractal Design Define R4 also great case but more at the end of the budget.
http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Carbide-Series-Compact-CC-9011023-WW/dp/B009GXZ8MM
Anyway choose what you like and good luck building.
The Corsair 200R is a good quality case with decent cooling at 50 pounds on amazon.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B009GXZ8MM/?tag=pcp0f-21
It should be easy to find a case like that. You can use pcpartpicker parameters to try and single out some cases you’d be interested in. Some cases off the top of my head: Corsair 200r, NZXT H500, or the Cooler Master NR600. Make sure you do some extra research on the case you want tho i.e. the NZXT uses negative pressure for good airflow and the NR600 has a very open mesh front panel or great airflow.
I don't really like Zalman cases mainly because they are quite loud. Other than that, I like the cable management more in Corsair. I would much rather go with the similarly priced (pre-rebate) 200R than the Z12.
http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Carbide-Series-Compact-CC-9011023-WW/dp/B009GXZ8MM
200r I have it and its great. Simple, very roomy and easy and low cost. Just don't forget the I/O plate arghghghgghghh. Ohh and this offers free shipping.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B009GXZ8MM/?tag=pcp0f-20
> I live in germany did you took that into account
I mean yes everything is from Amazon Deutschland
PCPartPicker seems to be messing up the pricing on several different items, not sure why.
Here is a seperate list I made browsing Amazon myself, pretty much the same build at 956.80
CPU
Motherboard
Memory
SSD
HDD
Video Card
Case
PSU
Minor difference in PSU and GPU, but should be about the same.
These came out way under your budget, so it's up to you if you want me to change them to be even better. As they are they'll do great, especially the first build.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | $204.29 @ Amazon
Motherboard | ASRock H97M PRO4 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $74.29 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $54.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | Gigabyte GeForce GTX 770 2GB WINDFORCE Video Card | $249.99 @ Newegg
Case | Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case | $49.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $53.99 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) | $86.43 @ SuperBiiz
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $823.96
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-11-27 16:54 EST-0500 |
And here's the second one:
I'm not sure how much memory you'll want so I put in 4GB, if you need more then go with what I listed for the other build.
I went with a small form factor for this, should look pretty natural by a TV.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor | $180.94 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | Asus H97I-PLUS Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard | $94.98 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | Kingston 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $31.45 @ SuperBiiz
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.99 @ Amazon
Case | Silverstone RVZ01B Mini ITX Desktop Case | $79.99 @ Directron
Power Supply | Silverstone Strider Gold 450W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply | $82.49 @ SuperBiiz
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $519.84
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-11-27 17:10 EST-0500 |
Also, we ask if you're near a MicroCenter because they often charge less if you can pick a component up from their stores.
Edit: Have you considered a Chromecast instead of a second pc? It won't be able to do as much but it can stream Chrome tabs to your TV or pull videos (like YouTube) straight from your wifi.
If you head over to the "Questions" section on the amazon page of the case, some have had the same question and the consensus is that the case you listed is plenty spacious for the Noctua NH-D15
Yeah, I have [Antec Three Hundred case] (http://www.amazon.com/Antec-Three-Hundred-Gaming-Computer/dp/B000GQMHBI) and I have ordered [Corsair Carbide Series Air 540] (http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Carbide-Series-Airflow-CC-9011030-WW/dp/B00D6GINF4/ref=pd_rhf_dp_s_t_2). Maybe it will have better air flow than my current case
There have been a ton of advancements with radiators over the years. Efficient radiators can have fans running at lower rpms. Noise is relative from one to another to some degree (at least in tolerance, placement, pitch and ambient sounds) I think with the size of what you're looking at, your pump would matter more and the stress it adds moving through those parts. (I hate whiny systems though)
Personally, I would pick a case with the right dimensions, then aesthetics. Anything else could be modded (if you're into that) however, if you went with 240mm radiators there are quite a few more options and with 2 x 240mm rads you could likely keep the rpms low. (assuming the standard 1-2 gpu, cpu loop.)
With the Mc pro 5, it looks like working in there would be a pain if you needed to adjust anything after the fact. It also appears that most people take out all the drive bays and front mount a larger rad and then a 240 up top, this could be a bit of a pain if you dont want to fiddle with finicky as cases with native 280mm support is rare still.
Here's a couple cases with native 280+ support.
https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Gaming-Computer-NIGHTHAWK-117/dp/B019FN63DK/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494754976&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=full+tower+case+280mm+radiator+support
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Carbide-High-Airflow-Cube/dp/B00D6GINF4
(Sorry about formatting it's super late)
With that hopefully pointing you in the right direction, I'd find a large case I could just tap a couple holes in and use the rads I wanted. It's really what you're comfortable with, I feel that 240's would be just fine and quieter than you would think with a good fan setup.
This black case https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-CARBIDE-Cube-Case-High-Airflow/dp/B00D6GINF4 has very good cooling! The stock fans have no RGB in them. I own this case and replaced the fans with White LED ones. Temps are very good with this case!
I may come back and edit this if I mess something up, but I'll try to be as granular as possible and give links because I sure wish I would have had someone help me when I was building this. I will say this, I looked for these items over time and waited until I found good deals.
Case:[ Corsaire Air 540] (http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Carbide-Series-Airflow-CC-9011030-WW/dp/B00D6GINF4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1421547180&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=corsair+air+540) - This is a large case. However, I have built many PC's and this is the best case I've ever used. All of your cables are hidden, so you have a very clean build with very easy access.
Proc: i7 4790K - I got this on sale for $279. Although I don't need to, I can very easily use the ASRock to overclock to 4.5 ghz straight from the OS.
Video: EVGA GTX 760 SC (I got this at Microcenter for $230.00) - As mentioned, I run three 1900x1200 montors with this. For games - I can run anything (to date) at 1900x1200 on ultra when the Proc os overclocked, unless it is just coded crappy. Lately I'be been playing ESO and Wildstar, but I've also done Bioshock Infinite and The Vanashing of Ethan Carter (beautiful game) as well.
Ram: Crucial Ballistix Elite 16gb - See my comment below on ram.
Motherboard: ASRock z97 Motherboard - Believe it or not, I got this for $86 at Microcenter.
Firewire Card: Syba FW Card with TI Chipset - This is low profile, but comes with a full size bracket. Works great with the Focusrite Saffire Pro 40.
OS: Windows 8.1 Professional
PT Version: PT11 (Latest Build)
Audio Interface: Focusrite Saffire Pro 40 - Make sure you get the latest software for this and run PT as administrator. I had to do this before the Midi would work right through the Saffire.
Proc Cooling: Corsair Hydro 105 - Do your research. There are a lot of cooling options. I had this in a separate machine and really like it.
Case Fans: Corsair Air Series AF140 LED Quiet Edition High Airflow Fans - One again, there are a lot of options with fans. These matched my case and are relatively quiet. Iknow the Noctua stuff is really awesome too.
Power Supply: Corsair HX850 - This might be overkill. I got this because I game some on this system and figured I would add another GTX 760 at some point. Also, not sure you need the HX. You might be able to go with a lower end PSU.
Video Monitors: Two of these are Lenova which I already had and are not included in the build price. The other, I just got and it beats the Lenovos significantly. It is an ASUS PA248Q 24-Inch LED-Lit IPS Professional Graphics Monitor. I use these large monitors because my eyes are bad from years of IT work, staring into monitors. Imagine that. This would be overkill for many as they take up a lot of space.
HD1: Crucial MX100 512 gb SSD. Everybody gets Samsung, and even I have one in my purchased gaming rig. However, before you do that, read this review from Tom's Hardware on the MX100. I'm completely sold on this SSD. I got this for $180 on a Newegg sale.
HD2: [Seagate 3tb 7200](Seagate Desktop 3 TB HDD SATA 6 Gb/s NCQ 64MB Cache 7200 RPM 3.5-Inch Internal Bare Drive ST3000DM001) - It is a platter HD I put my sessions on, nothing more. I've never seen a slow down.
A couple of other notes.
If you have anymore questions let me know. I had this info an a word doc from when I was planning - so I'm glad I was able to pass it on. I hope this helps.
Here are a few that may tickle your fancy then.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147226
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D6GINF4/
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854027
They don't really make ones with glass/transparent fronts, but these let light through a mesh of sorts at least.
I recommend the Corsair Carbide Air 540 its a great case, both in aesthetics and watercooling capability. Corsair manufactures a lot of closed loop coolers so they have a ton of experience and this case definitely shows. It's also what I'm using in my personal build and i have a custom loop in it myself.
EDIT: here's the amazon link
http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Carbide-Series-Airflow-CC-9011030-WW/dp/B00D6GINF4
They's awesome enough that they pop up in battlestations all the time.
There's really not much in the way of ATX compatible cubes. The only ones I know of are :
Coolermaster HAF XB EVO (ATX)
Corsair Carbide Air 540 / Corsair Carbide Air 540 Arctic White (E-ATX)
Corsair Carbide Air 740 (ATX)
Thermaltake Core X9 / Thermaltake Core X9 Snow Edition (E-ATX)
Thermaltake Core X5 TG / Thermaltake Core X5 TG Snow Edition (E-ATX)
Well damn. Sorry you have to deal with that stuff! That is really frustrating!
My last suggestion, if you are willing, is to get a cheap USB Sound Card and completely bypass your internal jack. As that could be the issue as well.
It is a really cheap test and it would let you know if it is the headset or the jack or the adapter.
Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Aluminum-External-Adapter-AU-EMAC/dp/B00OJ5AV8I/
Or this:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
Anyway, good luck on solving that issue man. And if they USB Sound Card works you could try some different headsets/headphones. Just remember that those USB Sound Cards are very basic and offer little to no amping. So you wont be getting the best sound quality. But it would definitely be equivalent to the onboard sound of laptops. And let you test your situation.
If you want to do a serious upgrade in sound quality, get the Sound Blaster Omni 5.1.
I have it and it amps all my headphones perfectly and has so many features and options and is rock solid. It does have an integrated mic into the unit and does noise cancel quite well but I wouldn't recommend it if you can use one on a headset as that would probably be clearer.
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Performance-Headphone-Integrated-Microphone/dp/B00EZT7RE4/
Just letting you know of the options, and sorry about all the info.
The reason I thought it could be the adapter or port is because I have the Game One and the SHP 9500's which are VERY open and leak sound substantially and I never get the mic picking up the audio from the headphones when using voice activated on PC or even on PS4 which is only voice activated.
Also, I just noticed something from your wording and just want to clarify something.
You are saying that when you are on a voice chat program with someone, they hear coming through your mic what is playing on your headphones right? It's not that you are hearing your mic in your headphones right? Just being sure. Because if you hear your mic in your headphones that is a completely different issue and can be disabled by going into your speaker settings and muting the mic playback which plays back to your headphones for closed headphones so you can hear yourself without having to yell it's called sidetone. Anyway, this is probably definitely not the issue but I just want to clarify so we can rule out everything else.
I think it will save you some hassle if you’ve already got a stereo setup you can use for the surround channels. Or a set of “computer speakers” as the post below suggests. Not sure what kind of connectivity you’ve got now but one option is this USB “card”:
Creative Sound Blaster Omni Surround 5.1 USB Sound Card with High Performance Headphone Amp and Integrated Beam Forming Microphone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EZT7RE4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lBZ-BbBMSVZNP
As far as movies vs video games go, yeah, the same system should work for both. It’s up to whatever software you’re using to provide a surround signal for your card to use.
No worries! If you are plugging in that cable that came with the headset into your PC's speaker out you will only get audio out to the headset and no mic. You want to get a 3.5mm female to 2-port male splitter, one into your speaker out and other into your mic in on your PC onboard audio IO. Then you can utilize the mic on the headset as well with the connection. Sorry I assumed you knew about this required cable for that kind of setup :) https://www.amazon.com/Y-Splitter-Separate-Headphone-Earphone-Microphone/dp/B01LXT0YGT/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=3.5mm+splitter+female+to+2+male&amp;qid=1557688359&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-9
If in the future you are interested in more power / wider range of freq response i'd get a cheap external DAC for your PC. DAC will give you more power / isolate interference from the inside of your PC, but DAC is optional. This is one of the popular ones for a good price: https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Performance-Headphone-Integrated-Microphone/dp/B00EZT7RE4/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=external+dac&amp;qid=1557687805&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-6
I never could get my audio working out of that board. I tried all the solutions I could find and none of them worked for me.
I ended up getting a Creative Soundblaster Omni USB. It works great in both macOS and windows. Could I have gotten sound to work? Maybe but I was at the end of my tweaking rope. It was worth the $70 to solve the problem.
should probably check our /r/headphones
It depends what your onboard is and how terrible it is. I use this creative usb as the input for my modmic 4. I use a yulong u100 as my output dac/amp to my Senn HD598s for gaming, but use a Bifrost Uber and Lyr 2 to drive my hifiman HE500s.
I just tested my mod mic with onboard, my portable xonar U3, and the creative usb. Onboard without mic boost was inaudible, with mic boost it's ok, but not great. The U3 has no mic boost and fell half way between onboard without boost and with, but sounded much better. The creative USB with boost off was about the same as the U3, but with boost I have to turn the gain down to about 70% or it is overbearingly loud. I position the mic about 1" from the side of my mouth as it's supposed to be placed.
output impedance is pretty high on the STX, the usual 10Ω found in soundcards. The DAC in it is decent, but the output stage is pretty blah. You're better off with a real headphone amp.
If you're getting ready to piss $200 on an STX, skip it and buy a Magni 2/Modi 2 stack or O2+ODAC for the headphones, then a something like an X-fi go for mic input.
There's a wide range of options, from the "$10-15, decent, it works": https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Adapter-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B01HPMHOY0/
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Converter-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B01M7QQQC7/
There's fancier stuff:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0044DEDCA/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018JUPY3A/
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Performance-Headphone-Integrated-Microphone/dp/B00EZT7RE4/
Or for the wealthy audiophile: https://www.amazon.com/Creative-X7-High-Resolution-Headphone-Connectivity/dp/B00Q3XLGLU/
Thanks, it was quite the experience. I hope you're excited for it.
There's also Mobo's that have 5.1 or 7.1 capabilities, like this one, or external sound 'cards' like this one. Consider those while part hunting too.
Got the headphones. Love them! I just bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EZT7RE4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 so that it's even better hopefully. Thanks for the advice.
Check out this case: https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Carbide-SPEC-02-Tower-Gaming/dp/B00I0MKMG2
I have build in this case before and it was very easy to build and looks great for it's price.
Not much better you can do than a [build with an i7-6700K, GTX 1080, and Samsung 950 PRO] (https://www.theaipc.com/result/c1467911191918).
Throw in a good ATX case-- Corsair makes good ones so [something like this] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I0MKMG2/) would probably do the trick.
Edit: A CPU cooler would help too if you end up overclocking-- [the hyper 212 evo works great for me] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005O65JXI/)
I'm not sure if the sizing is correct, or if everything will work correctly.
Here's my specs screen:
http://imgur.com/WDAIAEd
The case I would be getting is:
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Carbide-SPEC-02-Tower-Gaming/dp/B00I0MKMG2?ie=UTF8&amp;ref_=psdc_572238_t1_B00I6BJATW
Would my motherboard work with this case? I don't know how motherboards work with changing cases; wouldn't the ports be screwed up, in terms of placement?
if that's the case then you have very little to worry about since if you something like pcpartpicker the parts are all guaranteed to be compatible with each other.
i do think you're still being quite hard yourself though. most of the individual pieces of information about building a computer are not that complex, but there are quite a lot of parts. you're not the first person to miss a piece of information that's obvious in retrospect.
in case you're still looking for practical advice, you probably want a mid tower with an atx or micro atx motherboard. i got this cheap case during a sale and i am pretty happy with it., though of course you have many other options.
I have this combo (purchased from Fry's in February) except a 6350 instead. I have it paired with a R9 280 and run most games in very high to ultra settings and rarely see frame drops. It's been running fine since February and I have had no issues and doesn't seem to overheat for me. It is housed in a Corsair Carbide Spec-O2 with only the two fans that came with it and the original CPU fan and heatsink.
For the same price, I would change the case to the Corsair Spec-02. It looks basically the same but comes with an addition fan and usb 3.0 port.
literally 30 seconds on amazon
Easier than messing with pinouts is to just get a USB audio adapter. It's substantially easier to deal with and works with all your existing gear.
One of these:https://www.amazon.ca/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS
And all your problems are solved. They sell for under $10.
Is it a DAC/Amp combo (Fulla) or seperate DAC/Amp (Magni + Modi)? Since you said stack it is probably magni + modi.
The dualshock 4 will not power the modmic sufficiently. You would need to get a USB sound card that supplies power to microphone.
You can get one on Antlions website at https://antlionaudio.com/collections/accessories/products/antlion-audio-usb-sound-card
I do not have the antlion one, but I have this one and can say that it works: https://www.amazon.com/external-Adapter-Windows-Microphone-SD-CM-UAUD/dp/B001MSS6CS
PS4 can be weird if you try to have input and output on two different USB audio devices (soundcard in + DAC/amp out). If you have the magni + modi you can use a toslink optical cable with no problems. The fulla does not have toslink so it may have a problem with two usb devices at same time.
edit: The syba sound card I linked is a little fat and may block other usb ports depending on model of ps4. I would spend a few more dollars and get the antlion one if I still needed it. I use a soundblasterX G5 to power my headphones and modmic 4. (headphones are Beyerdynamic DT880 250 ohms)
edit 2: IIRC, the PS4 slim does not have a toslink optical port.
Either turn up your microphone boost in your audio panel (right click on little speaker in taskbar, select recording options. Go to your mic input then -> Properties -> Levels tab -> Microphone boost.
OR Get yourself one of these
My store sells something like this for that very purpose.
There are a few <$10 USB dongle sound cards on amazon. I've never used one, but they generally have pretty good reviews, and they are tiny.
https://smile.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_41?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468787901&amp;sr=8-41&amp;keywords=usb+dac
https://smile.amazon.com/Sabrent-Aluminum-External-Adapter-AU-EMAC/dp/B00OJ5AV8I/ref=sr_1_59?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468787923&amp;sr=8-59&amp;keywords=usb+dac
https://smile.amazon.com/external-Adapter-Windows-Microphone-SD-CM-UAUD/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468787875&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=usb+dac
There are more expensive ones too, but I think I'd try one of the ~$10 ones first just in case they happen to be decent.
You could use a splitter but that does not account for the internals of your headsets being quite different to the amplifier built in to your speakers. Usually this causes volume imbalance, which you could probably fix a bit with the volume knob on your speakers but it's not the best. Speakers with a headphone connector would be the best for that part but that won't fix the microphone part.
The StarTech splitter that was linked only works for devices with a TRRS socket (normally you only have TRS, so one Ring in the middle, RR has double rings).
If you want to be sure that won't break shit you'd need to post the motherboard/audiodevice/case -model depending on where this singular output is on your PC. That way we could try to see if it has a TRRS connector instead of just TRS.
You could also get a DAC (Digital Audio Converter) which would take up an USB port. Most have both audio out and microphone in. Unfortunately this installs as a separate 'sound card' and different audio device so you'd need to set up preferences for 'playback' and 'communications'.
Also some programs (even Skype goddammit) ignore the OS settings for which audio device is active/preferred so it would require some tinkering from time to time when you get a DAC.
Edit: example of a DAC this one was linked from the StarTech splitter as a related product. I can't vouch for this particular product etc. or that is even a good price. Just so you can see what it would look like.
Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Speaker-Headset-Switching-Manhattan-172851/dp/B000K8PH8C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1398567006&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=audio+switcher
Also saw this:
http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_65?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1398566730&amp;sr=8-65&amp;keywords=headphone+switch
Or this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Plantronics-Audio-PC-Headset-Speaker-Switch-with-flippable-switch-New-In-Box-/271263727873?pt=US_Computer_Headsets&amp;hash=item3f28940101
The best thing to do is get one of these. The USB on the sound card and USB power for your headset will take up the only two ports on the console, but it's the best (and only, I think) way to do chat with x11's or other PC headsets that use the green and pink connections.
Any card would work fine. I'd steer clear of the headphone amps, might be too much signal and you'd need to end up attenuating it.
Even a cheapie USB sound card would get the job done just fine.
I don't think that one. You need one that splits to a mic jack and a headphone jack. That one splits to two headphone jacks. You could get one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=pd_ecc_rvi_cart_3 or one of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SP0WAQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A2E7NH3SLWCOH4
I see when it comes to headsets you're worried about faultiness after awhile. Most companies will leave you with this problem, Logitech, Turtle Beaches, Plantronics.. Some other companies will just pure rip you off. I know quite a bit after the audio world being a head-fier. I can assure you that nothing can beat the quality of a Audio-Technica or Sennheiser gaming headset..
They usually are 3.5mm, but you can get a converter to USB http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=pd_bxgy_e_img_b
Audio-Technica is known for being cheap and sturdy, and for its price none of the competitors like Logitech or Turtle beaches will stand a chance, the quality that comes out of them for their price is just amazing.. They might not look as stylish or what not but if you don't care about that, go for it. You can easily just google Sennheiser or Audio-Technica and enjoy :)
If I could really recommend something, buy headphones, get yourself a good sound card and you won't need an actual gaming headset, the 3D sound will work in games amazingly. Then all you need is a stand up mic or something.
http://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-PC-151-Noise-Canceling-Microphone/dp/B000NOR89Y/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1311707536&amp;sr=1-5
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826402091
Hmmm... I'm not quite sure what could be the problem then. Have you updated any drivers recently? Also, try running a Linux live USB and see if you notice any audio problems while using it. It's all I can think of at the moment to check if it is just a software problem.
A potential workaround would be getting a USB device like this: https://www.amazon.com/external-Adapter-Windows-Microphone-SD-CM-UAUD/dp/B001MSS6CS or a dedicated sound card. I'm not 100% sure how the USB device works, but I don't think it uses the motherboard's audio and is rather its own audio device. You may find a USB device that's better than the one I linked, I just did a quick Google search for one since I knew these sorts of devices existed.
You can either use a usb audio adapter with a regular 3.5mm mic, or you can get a USB mic.
I'm using that $8 adapter with a cheap 3.5mm mic.
Alternatively, you could just hook your headsets up via USB and be done with it all together.
https://www.amazon.com/external-Adapter-Windows-Microphone-SD-CM-UAUD/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=pd_bxgy_229_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=E1MYXXEQ67NWR1D8B9P9
Probably not possible but you can get a USB sound card or a USB headset.
http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1406476752&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+computer+audio
You need this or this.
I don't think you can just get any old USB to 3.5mm adapter, it's a digital signal on USB going to analog. Some piece of electronics (DAC) has to convert the digital sound to analog, and only a USB to 3.5mm adapter won't do it.
I would agree with you that it sounds like a hardware issue with your aux port. You could always try resetting the smc for the hell of it but if that doesnt work I would maybe recommend buying usb headphones or just a usb to aux adapter as a temporary fix
Nab yourself one of these. With it, you can separate the output and the headphone cues.
Yes, a 3.5mm to USB adapter makes it work. This is the one that I bought awhile ago and I've been using my SteelSeries SiberiaV2's on my PS4 for awhile. You're just going to have to go into sound device options to set up how you want it (I have all the sound going through to the headset including party chat stuff).
This isn't easy or simple, but it is possible. You will need a separate microphone of some kind.
Get one of these:
https://en-us.sennheiser.com/pcv-05
This separates the audio from an Xbox One controller into separate microphone and headphone plugs.
If your controller is an Elite, you can plug this directly into the controller.
If not, you'll need an adapter like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Afterglow-LVL-Headset-Adapter/dp/B017VLXJ7G/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_63_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=VKQJ85AC83ZD52576QFZ
Now run 1/8" stereo cables from the headphone and microphone leads of the Sennheiser adapter and either plug them into the inputs on your PC, if they are available. If not, you can add more inputs by adding a USB audio adapter like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/external-Adapter-Windows-Microphone-SD-CM-UAUD/dp/B001MSS6CS
In the Xbox, enable your headset and send party and game chat to the headset only. (You can also use speakers, but then you'll only be able to control the chat audio levels in the Xbox, not in OBS.)
If you're not already using it, get VoiceMeeter Banana and set it up according to its manual:
http://vb-audio.pagesperso-orange.fr/Voicemeeter/banana.htm
Voicemeeter provides for three hardware inputs, three hardware outputs, and three audio buses. It creates a virtual device to be used as the default Windows audio output. Check the quick start section of the manual.
Then what you want is to set your Let's Play microphone as hardware input 1, and your Xbox headset as hardware input 2 (either the mic input of your PC or your USB adapter).
Hardware output 1 should be the headphones you use while playing (not the Xbox headset, we're not even going to use it!) and hardware output 2 should be either your PC's headphone port or the USB audio adapter, depending on which you are using.
Now what you want to do is enable the appropriate busses for hardware inputs so they get output to the proper places. That's what the buttons labeled A1, A2, A3, B1 and B2 are for.
You want to make sure that the hardware input for your microphone and the hardware output for your xbox adapter are on the same bus, and that this is a separate bus from the one where the hardware input from your Xbox adapter is on the same bus as the hardware OUTput for your headphones.
This means that you can hear your buddies on Xbox chat, and they can hear you through the microphone you are using to record in OBS.
When you are done, you should ideally have 3 audio inputs in your OBS setup: your microphone, your xbox headset input, and your game audio (from whatever your usual capture method is). You should be able to control volume levels on all three separately, as well as enable or disable them as you wish.
For a more complete guide on the portion of this where you set up OBS and VoiceMeeter Banana, look here:
https://obsproject.com/forum/resources/voicemeeter-banana-audio-management-for-1-and-2-pc-streaming-setups.397/
"This device cannot start. (Code 10)" is a hardware error that most commonly means that you have a bad, missing, or incompatible device driver.
I'd recommend you try a different driver, or reinstall the amd driver, or pass through a different sound device. I have [this usb device] (https://www.amazon.com/external-Adapter-Windows-Microphone-SD-CM-UAUD/dp/B001MSS6CS) installed for when my intel hdaudio device fails.
Basically you would get super low volumes from the onboard Mic port. What I ended up doing was getting a cheap USB sound card just for the mic and it works fine.
From what I know there isn't a USB to 3.5mm+mic (single port) adaptor. There are adaptors with two ports for headphones and microphones. I heard this USB adaptor is good.
Also if you need a single port, then you can use the adaptor that came with your Bose headphones. If you've lost it, then you can use something like this. There are other similar adaptors so you can try something else if this doesn't work since some reviews say that it doesn't work with Apple in-line remotes.
Hope this works out for you!
Any USB to 3.5mm adapter should work, here's one I bought a few years ago for my Shield: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MSS6CS
The 598Cs are very efficient and don't need an amp to run well. If you're worried about running it through your mic, this is also a very cheap alternative.
I have never had a problem with any USB audio adapter on Chromebook, and have used several. Most recently, we used this one: http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS
But yours probably would be fine, too. It seems USB audio must be pretty standard the way HID devices are.
I recently came into a situation like this when switching from my HyperX Cloud IIs to audiophile-level headphones.
I solved my problem by buying a cheap condenser microphone + boom stand + usb audio adapter and then plugging my headphones in separately.
Not only did I end up with better sound quality, I ended up with better microphone quality than both a gaming headset and the ModMic / BoomPro.
Condenser Microphones need power to function. The audio port on your motherboard does not give nearly enough. The microphone will work much better and be less noisy with more power. You can either use a USB sound card to give the mic 5V of power or get a 48V phantom power supply to maximize your performance.
I got this USB Soundcard and this Power Supply. I use both together and It sounds great. The microphone also works alright with just the USB card. hope it helps. p.s. I have the same mic.
Dude, I was in the same situation as you! You might want to get one of these.
I picked one up when my built-in Microphone wasn't working on my Windows partition, but couldn't plug in my headset since it had dual audio in/out jacks.
You're the same Rae who plays on Reddit West, right? I don't know if you're near LA, but if you decide on getting a decent headset and want that adapter, we can meet up somewhere public and I can give you mine for 10 bucks; that way I get rid of something I don't need and you get something you do. :D
Maybe something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS (the PS4 works with USB headsets, so may just see this as a USB headset), but I'd say it's touch and go at best.
You could always go with headphones out of the controller (since we know that supports game audio and chat), or if you really wanted to torture yourself, run an audio cable from the controller to your audio setup. :)
The dongle worked with Traktor and Deckadance, both programs let you assign the dongle to one audio output and the internal card to another output. I would assume most dj programs work this way.
I don't know which brand of USB dongle, we picked it up at Microcenter a few years back. It was dirt cheap, so any of the amazon ones should be ok. If it helps, I would prolly buy this one myself... http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1381253283&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=usb+sound+card
FYI... I wouldn't use the dongle method for club gigs, but it's fine for practice/learning and house parties.
I have one of these bad boys, works great with my Mixtrack. Had it for a year and it's still tip top.
Syba USB Sound Card
> MOTHER FUCKER YOU CAN BUY AN ADAPTER FOR THE USB TO SUBSTITUTE FOR THAT!
There's this for $8. If you'd rather buy a more reputable brand, there's a Logitech one for $12.
Idk about OP, but I broke off the headphones in my computer's jack. Since then, I haven't been able to get sound on my computer except through a [USB audio adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS) or an HDMI cable. There is an app called airphones, but it has latency, so it's not very useful for stuff like youtube videos (which is all I would want the not so good sound for).
yah it seems that the headphone jack being broken is a downer, ive been using something like http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1425416726&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+headphone+adapter that i can throw in. also ive been offered 200 off ebay, i am in a good mood i see myself budging off my price if its reasonable :P
The onboard audio is truly shit if it is the same as my B450M Mortar (probably is). But you can just buy a cheap USB sound card to replace it. I bought a Syba adaptor for 8€ and it worked perfectly.
Your cheapest option would probably be something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MSS6CS/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I had a bunch of annoying popping and delays with my Z68 board's audio (Realtek 889) and decided to just go the USB audio route. This: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MSS6CS/ worked perfectly for me, but all I care about is basic stereo audio.
Look on amazon for an external USB sound card. They should be under $35. It will cost you way more to get one specific for your laptop.
This one is under $10
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001MSS6CS?cache=9bbbc8e17e0ec6e890ed3e4607e3f2ed&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;qid=1413334894&amp;sr=8-3#ref=mp_s_a_1_3
I had a similar issue and bought a usb instead it made a huge improvement in the mic quality. It reduces interference apparently and powers the mic also giving it a boost. That's what I was told anyway , all I know is for a few pounds it was a big boost.
&#x200B;
sorry forgot teh link
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001MSS6CS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Just picked up a ModMic to use for a Discord server. I was fully aware that plugging the mod mic directly into my motherboards on board audio input would cause issues. I plugged into a Syba USB Audio Adapter and I'm experiencing terrible feedback which sounds like a fan. Example here: https://clyp.it/pbnnmadw
I think it may be a PSU issue, maybe plugging it into an external USB would help?
Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
I think so! I also use an inexpensive mic but it sounds so much better with this Stereo Audio Adaptor: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MSS6CS from Amazon. I would recommend this over what you showed as it is $18 cheaper. I've used my adaptor for 6 months now. Listen to a bit of an episode on my channel to determine if the quality is good to you.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MSS6CS/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
and
http://www.ebay.com/itm/EASY-DIGI-Sound-Card-Interface-PSK-RTTY-SSTV-NBEMS-JT-65-PCB-KIT-/321046670079?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&amp;hash=item4abfdf6aff
Is what I've been using and suggesting to other people. No need to spend $100+ on a rigblaster.
You could always buy a USB sound adapter, then just disable the onboard soundcard and use the USB sound interface.
Syba SD-CM-UAUD
If you have a spare USB port, then this method will allow you to regain function without having to solder or anything.
There are a few other brands out there that I can find, but unfortunately all of them seem to all be pretty crap quality (cheap plastic). The idea was just so cool I had to post it.
Here are the others I found.
http://www.amazon.com/desktop-computer-companion-accessories-Cosmos/dp/B006VAD2C6
http://www.amazon.com/Bluecell-Desktop-computer-electronics-organizer/dp/B00ADG7R3Y
there's usb3 or SD + etc card slots that you could add if you ever use those. or add a little drawer
Lots of options, some of them basic, some of them very fancy.
I find myself wanting one of these.
I have one of these and although it doesn't slide very well I really like having it to put software disks and thumb drives and so forth in.
Check out these things, I use a few drawers similar to this for the small bits. It's a great way to make use of those unused drive bays.
https://www.amazon.com/desktop-computer-companion-accessories-Cosmos/dp/B006VAD2C6/
When I said power LED, I meant the single light that surrounds the power button on the front. This one. Besides that, there aren't any other lights on it.
Yeah, one of my optical drives currently has this DVD burner, which I've only used once for the install discs and nothing else since. And for that, you could always just get the software directly from the sellers' websites, though it might take some searching to find. Also, there are external DVD drives that plug into USB if you ever do need one.
For the other optical drive, I actually put a little drawer in it. I bought this one off of Amazon and I use it to hold flashdrives, small cables, SD cards, and other random crap. It's actually really convenient and stop me from always losing those things.
5.25 inch drawer
How about a drawer for your case
I've had my eye on that case for a while, it looks sooo good. BUT... the sideways 5.25” bays means you can’t have one of these
Here's one
Fan controller, card reader, hotswap drive bay, drawer, tape drive, programmable LCD
Here's the link: http://www.amazon.com/KLOUD-City-desktop-computer-devices/dp/B00AVSSKOE
It isnt sold on Amazon anymore, but I found another one that should work for you!
http://www.amazon.com/desktop-computer-companion-accessories-Cosmos/dp/B006VAD2C6/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1427006654&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=desktop+drawer
If it's just the keyboard there are a lot of AB switches out there for that, example: Plugable USB 2.0 Switch for One-Button Swapping of USB Device/Hub Between Two Computers (A/B switch)
If you want to share the keyboard, mouse, and monitor then you are looking for a KVM switch: IOGEAR 2-Port USB KVM Switch with Cables and Remote, GCS22U
{no endorsement of products or sellers implied}
First off, no matter what you do, you'll be getting some lag from the console. It may not be noticeable. You've got the right pieces for the puzzle, I just don't know how much lag that DAC will introduce. What model is your TV - does it have an analog out? RCA or headphones. That might be simpler than using the DAC.
\> And then my mic is USB and will plug into this USB switch which will then run unto my console and pc.
This part (the mic setup) should work fine. if the mic works on both platforms, the USB switch looks like a simple passive passthrough. So it will be like directly connecting to one device or the other.
Probably something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497423536&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=usb+switch
I haven't tried it, but this USB A/B switch should probably do the trick. https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI
(E. T. A. : assuming its a USB mic)
Could go for something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458937403&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=usb+switch
There are ones with built in hubs and others that switch monitors with usb stuff, but you can already just change the input on the monitor. Plus, might affect display quantity. Idk. Back to work...
This should do the trick https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI
This is the switch I use: http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1419643320&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+switch
I haven't had any problem with it really. OSX seems to notice the switchover faster than Windows though. Sometimes Windows can take like 10 seconds to register that the keyboard and mouse are re-attached.
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI
That seems like a cheap solution. There's a USB 3 version if you need it
Plugable Technologies on Amazon. I ordered a USB peripheral sharing switch from them. It came in this box.
Take a look at this...
&nbsp;
http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Server-Chassis-Rackmount-Metal/dp/B0091IZ1ZG?ie=UTF8&amp;keywords=15-bay%20Chassis&amp;qid=1465421231&amp;ref_=sr_1_1&amp;sr=8-1
&nbsp;
Could put your i7 920 equipment in that along with a few used raid pcie cards and you should be well on your way.
&nbsp;
I went with BTRFS instead of ZFS because I wanted the flexibility to add drives to my raid as my data grew but I get that not everyone cares about that.
Best thing to do is to buy a new case. Either this https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Mini-Itx-Computer-DS380B-USA/dp/B07PCH47Z2/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=silverstone+hotswap&qid=1566943919&s=gateway&sr=8-15 Which a quite a lot of folks I know who are using mini iTX are using something like this. 8 hotswap 3.5 and 4 x 2.5 https://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=452 or if you want to use ALL your drives and a cheaper alternative https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0091IZ1ZG/ref=twister_B079C7QGNY?_encoding=UTF8&th=1 You can fit 15 x 3.5 in that. or get some 2x2.5 to 1x3.5 to shove some SSDs in there too. https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Internal-Mounting-Included-ST1002S/dp/B01FD8YJB4/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=2.5+x+3.5&qid=1566944571&s=electronics&sr=1-11 There are various companies I looked quickly on Amazon. That way you can have 12 drives rather than just 6. The cheap sata cards will fix you up or shove this in there https://www.amazon.com/Crest-Non-RAID-Controller-Supports-FreeNAS/dp/B07NFRXQHC/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=I%2FO+Crest+8+Port+SATA+III+Non-RAID+PCI-e+x4+Controller+Card+Supports+FreeNAS+and+ZFS+RAID&qid=1566944762&s=electronics&sr=1-1 . Hope this helps :)
I use the router to block outside connections to the NAS to keep it more secure.
At 56TB (from your badge), it should be cheaper to build your own NAS especially if you need it on 24/7. WD MyClouds are cheap, but they will power down after some time and they aren't the fastest drives in the world.
As an example, here is a case https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Server-Chassis-Rackmount-Metal/dp/B0091IZ1ZG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473199853&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=server+case
that is only $110 and can hold 15 drives.
And then a motherboard like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Asus-P9d-c-4l-Server-Motherboard-Intel-C224-Chipset-Socket-H3-Lga-1150-Atx/331913735405
for $230, brings the costs up to about $350
This is what I am currently using.
https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Server-Chassis-Rackmount-Metal/dp/B0091IZ1ZG
It's for a server, so it's not a standard case.
https://www.amazon.ca/Rosewill-Rackmount-Computer-Pre-Installed-RSV-L4500/dp/B0091IZ1ZG
Can be used on it's side if you take the front panel off, or you can rack mount/put it on a side table.
> Just need space for hard drives.
The Rosewill RSV-L4500 has 15 3.5" drive bays and can usually be found on sale < $100US. That should be a good start for your digital collection. :-)
SSD: I used both 500GB and 1TB doing lots of hoarding and file transfer and found that 500GB to be the sweet spot. Unless you do gaming VMs and stuff, the main purpose of the cache drive would be to assist saturating a gigabit connection (unraids array is SLOW), so going above 125MB/s has no point at all. Can probably go for a cheap 2.5' tbh. Or shift the money towards higher capacity 2.5' like those 2TB micron
Case: if it sits in the basement why would u need an expensive eye candy. Might be better off with that those cheaper rosewill 4U chassis
>The only reason to put a home server in a rack is because you want to, because it's cool.
I respectfully disagree. It's a quick and easy way to add 15 internal drive bays, which is a lot harder to find in a traditional desktop PC case. There's absolutely a function for both setups, beyond just someone's personal choice because they might find it "cool". But at this point I don't think either of us is going to convince the other!
Eeek... so that budget is going to be eaten up by just drives. NAS can use consumer drives... but it is far and away better to use drives designed to be in RAID. Otherwise you might spend more as multiple consumer drives die over time.
12-bay hot-swap 4u case: https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Rackmount-Computer-Pre-Installed-RSV-R4000/dp/B00N9CXGSO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504592127&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=rosewill%2B4u%2Bcase&amp;th=1
15-bay non-hot-swap 4u case: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0091IZ1ZG/ref=psdc_572238_t1_B00BQY3916
You could look for craigslist deals for NAS - but they usually use SFF (2.5" 10-16k rpm) SAS drives. Also can be loud.
I tried my best, its a bit over 10,000
Case 1085
PSU 840
Storage 1000
Video Card 3900
Motherboard 1029
RAM 630
CPU 2300
Try hunting for a cheaper case, [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Carbide-SPEC-02-Tower-Gaming/dp/B00I0MKMG2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503415440&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=corsair+computer+case) is one of the highest rated cases on Amazon (and the one I use) which has been known to look good and hold together rather well.
You could also drop the 128gb SSD and get something smaller like a 64gb such as [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Kingspec-SATAIII-SMI2246XT-controller-ACSC2M064S25/dp/B00Z6THYYU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503415594&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=64gb+ssd), or just drop it entirely and add it back later when you have more money to do so. Are you planning on using it for a boot drive or something else?
You are going to want something a bit more powerful than a 2gb 1050 if you're looking for 4k. It should be able to handle a decent amount of games at 1080p with 60fps at high-settings, but if you start getting into AAA games with very graphically intensive settings you may want to spring for a GTX 1060 if you want to use Ultra settings.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I0MKMG2/?tag=xtremegaminer-20
Age of Empires 2, because there is nothing better than the game that first got me really into gaming back in '99. No SSD yet because I am working on ascending from consoles, budget build parts, SSD wasnt in the budget, parts will be arriving today and tomorrow for my first build. Case, stock amazon photos since it has not arrived yet.
I like this case a bit better and it's a little cheapers. One less internal drive space though. But it looks like you are only using two so far.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I6BJATW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=P6NWZDRMEXBA&amp;coliid=IO6XO9VP1LWAS
Also, I would go for a larger HD. 1TB isn't really the sweet spot anymore. You can get a drive like this for a bit more and it's still good enough for most applications.
http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Barracuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST2000DM001/dp/B005T3GRN2/ref=sr_1_7?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1416351494&amp;sr=1-7
What about this one?
https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-CARBIDE-SPEC-01-Mid-Tower-CC-9011050-WW/dp/B00I6BJATW/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1539902070&amp;sr=8-12&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=Mid+tower+case
Seems to have good reviews on Amazon
Processor(Ryzen 3 2200G APU with Vega graphics)- https://mdcomputers.in/amd-apu-quad-core-ryzen-3-2200g.html?search=ryzen%203%202200g&amp;description=true
Motherboard(Asus Prime A320 M,ask the seller to update the bios to the latest version available)- https://mdcomputers.in/asus-prime-a320m-k.html
Link 2 for the same motherboard,seems to be out of stock on mdcomputers- https://www.amazon.in/dp/B06ZY2F35X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CINSBbCMMY5WZ
RAM(Corsair Vengeance 4Gb kit,get 2 for dual channel configuration)-https://mdcomputers.in/corsair-vengeance-lpx-4gb-ddr4-2400mhz-cmk4gx4m1a2400c16r.html
Storage( 1 TBHarddisk) - https://mdcomputers.in/seagate-1tb-barracuda-st1000dm010.html
Storage(240 GB SSD,optional ofc for putting OS,if budget allows,definitely buy it) - https://mdcomputers.in/kingston-a400-240gb-sa400s37-240g.html
SMPS(Antec 450 watts,should be enough if not going to upgrade to discrete graphic card over time,but I think even then should do it ) - Antec VP450P 450W Power Supply https://www.amazon.in/dp/B006TM8XPW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DANSBbV0YD8EB
Case(This is my choice,if you want you can get any other Micro atx case,just make sure it has front usb 3.0,also this case has a cutout for the SMPS on the upper side instead of the traditional below the case,which is why I am linking another case if this is a inconvenience for you) - https://mdcomputers.in/antec-vsk3000-elite.html
Case no 2:- Corsair Carbide Series CC-9011050-WW Mid-Tower Steel Gaming Case with Red LED (Black) https://www.amazon.in/dp/B00I6BJATW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gaOSBbGE58FYH
I am guesstimating, but the whole build must come around 30-31 K,with the SSD ofc,if you cant fit into the budget right now,no need to get the SSD,which then will bring the cost around 27-28 K.
I did not account for other peripherals such as a monitor,HDMI cable,keyboard,mouse,etc.
If you wanted to take that into the budget as well, I have to make another build for you,probably a athlon 200ge one, I guess, but I think we dont need to change anything then, just the processor as the motherboard supports athlon as well.
Feel free to contact me if you have any doubts.
Edit 1:- Changed the SMPS as it did not have active PFC, the updated one i.e. antec vp450p has it with better capacitors too.
Edit 2:- Added another link for the motherboard as it was out of stock at mdcomputers.
Edit 3:- Added another case as an option.
AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 - 16500
Gigabyte - GA-AB350-GAMING 3 ATX AM4 8500
Seagate Barracuda 2TB SATA 6Gb/s 64MB Cache 3.5-Inch Internal Bare Drive with 7200 RPM (ST2000DM006) 5300
SAMSUNG INTERNAL 2.5-INCH SATA 3.0 SSD 850 EVO 250GB (MZ-75E250BW) 7335
Zotac - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB OC Edition Video Card 13500
HP - 24es 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor 12,300
SEASONIC S12G-550 SMPS -- S12G SERIES 550 WATT 80 PLUS® GOLD CERTIFICATION WITH ACTIVE PFC 6700
G.Skill - Flare X 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory 9500
TP-Link TL-WN725N 150Mbps Wireless N Nano USB Adapter 500
Corsair CC-9011050-WW Carbide Series SPEC-01 3424
Total= 83,559.
Note that I have included a 2TB HDD. If you want 1TB, since you posted yourself, the price goes down to 81,760.
I suspect all you need now is a keyboard and a mouse and a UPS. I left out these things cause the UPS actually depends on the type of PSU you buy. If you go for any seasonic PSU, research well into what UPS is best suited for that PSU.
I highly recommend going on to Linustechtips and post these parts in the build section. People will surely comment and help you even more :)
Good Luck!
You can cheap out on these four things to save some money (but I highly suggest you don't):
I'd go with the 2x4 2400mhz g.skill ripjaws z instead of what you have. Fairly cheap on amazon/newegg (the last time i checked)
For a case, an awesome one for red would definately be this awesome thing
Motherboard, go for a z97 badass
You could try the Corsair SPEC-01
I'm assuming you're playing the microphone back into your headphones for this experiment?
I think I have the exact motherboard you do (rev 2, iirc) - I skipped using the sound on it alltogether - I seem to remember not being terribly impressed with it. I use an Asus Xonar Essence STX instead.
Not sure my modmic gives me any background noise problems though (an I use mic boost.) The mic is directional - did you bend it to point at your mouth?
A cheap solution for you would be this:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=pd_lpo_147_bs_lp_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=BJKANZEFTAHA41335G7E
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483415525&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=USB+sound+card
something like this would work beautifully, honestly, most of them will work, but if you want to be 100 percent sure, make sure they say that they're compatible with Mac OS X.
Try another set of speakers or some headphones in that jack. If it’s still mono then it’s a dirty or damaged jack. You can try cleaning it with a cotton bud (QTip for those of you in the states) or you can buy a very cheap USB sound card like this: Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and play No drivers Needed. [Black] (AU-MMSA) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UG0EAbFN5KFSM
You can try this $8 adapter before dropping a lot more money on an expensive headset
You need a usb mic splitter, I have this one Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and Play No Drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FpvkDbQVRART1
I can't seem to find it online anymore, but it's made by Sabrent so this one would probably be very similar.
I use an external USB soundcard with a USB hub with individual switches. When you turn on the switch, it goes to me headphones. When I turn it off, it goes back to speakers.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=zg_bs_3015427011_1
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=pd_sim_147_3?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=519JLN5GTLL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=CRQ01Z8W9J8BRX6DS09X
Thanks for help with the lingo. Indeed it is 3 mono inputs, and 4 is great. Do they make them without preamplification? I already have preamps for each audio line in, seems like overkill. I was imagining something simple like this https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8 but with several input plugs instead of 1.
I knew this sounded familiar...
After 6 years in my posession, my MSI GT70 0nc has NOT aged well at all
Keep us posted.
If you're plugging them directly into your mobo, there isn't much you can do about it. However, you can try one of these little fellas to avoid the direct input, and plug in via USB. That might clean it up for you.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
I use one of these in my car: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1509801051&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=usb+to+3.5
Edit: I also have the Nav package, so I'm not sure if that impacts whether or not it works. But for $6 worth trying out.
Does the mic have a non-permanent cable? if it does, you could use something like this usb to xlr cable.
http://www.amazon.com/HDE-Female-Cable-Instruments-Microphones/dp/B0050CEEIW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1398841494&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=USB+to+XLR
Or if its a permanent cable, maybe something like these
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1398841671&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=USB+to+mic
http://www.amazon.com/iLuv-USB-Audio-Adapter-iCB758WHT/dp/B007PFZEKY/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1398841671&amp;sr=8-9&amp;keywords=USB+to+mic
Just use this http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463405548&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=Usb+sound+card along with a regular double 3.5mm male cable...
But thanks for trying out ;)... My smartwatch came with such a cable and while I am tech literate enough to know that it would not work, I always wondered what would happen (e.g. if the device has some kind of protection against that)...
Be a big spender--get one of these.
I haven't seen too many keyboards with headphone jacks built in. You can get a cheap adapter to turn a keyboard with a USB Hub (more common) into one with a headphone jack http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
You could get a USB sound card. Very cheap.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462311183&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=usb+sound+card
This unit scored 4.5 out of 5 on Amazon. Please note that this model is discontinued and there are many refurbished units available. This looks like a refurbished unit. I would check warranty. Pass if 180 days or less. You can get a 1 year warranty on a refurbished unit if bought from the Dell Outlet. I paid $360 new from Amazon in December right as these were being discounted/discontinued. You will also need a keyboard & a mouse ($25-50), a headset with mic ($10-100+) and possibly a monitor ($100-150).
You are not going to get an unbiased opinion on a pre-built PC in a sub-reddit called buildapc. These are a great buy at ~$360 for new(er) units. These can be use for low to middle desktop gaming but are designed as an affordable set-top PC console. For the listed games, this unit will do okay to very good (not great to mind blowing fabulous) graphics.
Things to know:
You have different options.
If your Beats has a removable headphone wire.
V-Moda BoomPro add-on Mic.
If your Beats doesn't have a removable headphone wire.
Antlion Mod Mic Unidirectional
Antlion Mod Mic Omnidirectional
If you want to use the Zalman or Antlion mic, you need to purchase a splitter.
Sennheiser Splitter
USB Headphone/Mic Adapter, requires USB extension cable
For just sound only: I'd avoid getting a expensive capture card, but just use a sound card instead, which you may have already! It totally depends on your PC hardware as many PCs and some laptops have a "Mic" or "Line in" Jack, but many laptops don't. A Cheap USB Sound "card" should work.. such as this one being one of the cheaper ones at £6 : https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467891797&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb+sound+card
You'll need a few leads such as Stereo Phono to 3.5mm jack, an Wii Composite or Component "video" cable to let the Audio out. If you want get the game pad Audio, you want a Lead with two 3.5mm jack male connectors.
Getting all that would be less than £50 with Shipping costs, and Next day Delivery Premium charge.
If I didn't have my Elgato HD Capture card, and wanted the Audio, that is the way I'd done it, with the PS2 and Gamecube.
So something like this?
http://www.adafruit.com/products/1475
edit:
What about this?
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1411966291&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+audio
This took me from too much noise on my integrated input to acceptable for online communication. If it just has to be passable, it might do the trick.
Personally, I would stretch for the Dell. If the headphone jack does become an issue ChromeOS supports most USB audio devices so you could get an inexpensive USB solution like this one, or one of many other similar ones down the road.
You could also consider a refurb 2013 Pixel. They can be had somewhat cheaply but support may be lacking.
Otherwise you're probably best off with the Acer 14 even if it has a lackluster keyboard.
Well, worst cause you could always buy something like this
I had the same issue. This fixed it and made my mic sound a lot better: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474397977&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=sabrent+usb
If your headphones/mic combo is one single connector, you'll need this to split it into separate channels: https://www.amazon.com/Startech-MUYHSFmm-Headset-Splitter-Adapter-F/dp/B0058DOWH6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474398237&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=f+to+m+headset
OK so it splits for a possible hardware fix try this have you tried any other mic? Maybe a USB mic?
In my opinion, I would save the money and just go with a usb audio adapter kinda like this one instead of investing in a new motherboard. This is mostly because older Intel boards can be pretty tricky to find at a decent price.
You'll certainly need to buy something.
Here's one possible solution: First, purchase this DAC, this y-splitter, and two 3.5mm cables. Connect the y-splitter to the PS4 headset jack. Connect the DAC and headset to your PC. Use one cable to connect the green port on the y-splitter to the red port on the DAC; use the other to connect the green port on the DAC to the red port on the y-splitter.
Follow these instructions or something similar to "listen" to your mic. Select the USB audio output in step 4. This will send it to the PS4's input. Do the same thing to "listen" to your USB DAC's mic input. Select the headset in step 4. This will send the PS4 audio to your headset.
If you have any questions, feel free to comment.
You can also do your own manual setup. I have the Sennheiser Game One headset and used a $7 USB sound card as a second output and a cheap mixer to adjust volume levels. It's not wireless, but as mentioned above there's some good wireless setups that offer separate volume control.
I have a modmic 5 and everybody says I sound great when playing games. I have to use a cheapo usb audio adapter to take care of low input and buzz issues i had with my computer.https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518242759&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb+audio
Not sure what you mean by an External Sound Card, because the definition of that varies widely (external Headphone DAC? for example). If you mean a dongle like a Sabrent USB Sound Adapter ( https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8 ), then no.
You want an audio interface. They generally have a pre-amp built-in that supplies Phantom Power. Again, a Behringer UM2 is probably the cheapest one you can buy out there. The next step up is a Focusrite Solo.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=asc_df_B00IRVQ0F8/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310831391922&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2520944662922269486&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045121&hvtargid=pla-563309581845&psc=1 one of these
Power down the computer, flip the PSU switch off and unplug the PSU cable and then hold down the power button for about 10s or so. And then reconnect everything and power it on.
There may be a build up of electricity and it's interfering with the connection somehow.
If that doesn't fix it it may just be a bad port if you don't notice any other problems it'd be cheaper and easier to just grab a USB dac from newegg or amazon. Something like this.
Hi /u/Neovngr, welcome to r/LinuxHardware! :)
It's definitely possible to output audio via a USB port, in fact I recently had to do this myself just last week due to the sound chip on my motherboard dying.
What you require is a USB DAC (Digital-to-Analog Converter). These generally require no drivers at all, and work immediately on any OS. Something as tiny and cheap as this would do the job, but the audio quality won't be very good and it's questionable how long it'd last.
I personally went with this DAC here due to the interesting capacitor modifications one can do to it, as detailed in the top review. But even without that, I can confirm it sounds very good indeed.
This Behringer DAC would also be a fine choice going by this review, though it is slightly more expensive.
Whatever you choose, it should be as simple as plugging it in and selecting it as the main audio device in the Pulseaudio control panel. (On my PC it shows up as 'Audio Codec Analog Stereo')
Hope that helps! \^_^
Yeah I think if I had to get a new motherboard I probably wouldn't do it, I can only expect that the key would be invalid so my hands are a bit tied in that aspect.
I think I might buy a USB adapter off Amazon and give that a whirl. How does this look?
Oh hey I didn't know that double clicking the icon on the tray did anything! Unfortunately all it does it bring up a volume control bar and the ability to toggle between audio devices, nothing further.
Thanks for looking into this so much!
I had the same problem as you guys as when I plugged in a cd drive it fried my audio ports so I got this:
Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_flHQJpQW6h1ik
I had a similar issue trying to run neo pixels on pwm pin 18. From what I found that is used for audio out and causes issues trying to do both ast same time. Had to get an adapter for usb to 3.5mm. No issues after
Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and play No drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QrMxzbW4S3V1F
Yeah, you'll have to buy a usb audio adapter though.
Something like this would work.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499623705&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb+audio
I need a DAC & Amp to use with my Philips SHP9500s on my PC.
Budget: $50 - $100
Necessary Features: USB Input, External Power(non portable)
My onboard audio sounds pretty good (Asus Z97-AR motherboard), but it is very noisy. I also have this cheapo USB adapter which sounds awful, but it's quiet. I use the audio adapter for my V-Moda Mic and I plan to keep using it because the mic is very clear with it.
&nbsp;
The most recommended products seem to be the Fiio E10k and the Micca Origen. I think the Micca is perfect, but it's over budget. The Fiio has all the features I need too, but reviews seem to be mixed about actual sound quality.
My biggest question is whether there is an appreciable difference between the 192kHz Micca and the 96kHz Fiio. Also, are there any other obvious contenders that I'm overlooking?
You could try one of these USB sound cards.
Try one of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aqr.Bb999V5QW
Somewhat relevant! Good cheap solution if you ever want sound back and have an open USB port.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=zg_bs_3015427011_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=78ZX18HR7GGW2Y2699T6
I don't know about a video, I did my research on google, but I'll try to explain. Here's the setup:
Switch > aux > ground loop isolator > aux > PC (line-in, the blue one on the back)
Windows machines (and I assume Linux and Mac can do it to), allow you to listen to a recording device (such as a microphone, or line-in) on your speakers/headphones so you can hear what is coming through. In this case, if we're using Discord or Switch App emulated, we need to be able to hear game audio. This link tells you how to enable it.
There are a few problems with this however:
Might I ask exactly what your setup is? This way I could tell you exactly what you need to get, and what to plug in where.
https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR2USB-3-5mm-Adapter/dp/B00I6ILPPC
This is the one I bought at first; it worked great until the wire started wearing out in a few months. Then I got this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=pd_sim_23_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00IRVQ0F8&amp;pd_rd_r=2T2QS7R59SH47NNQZA5K&amp;pd_rd_w=FdmbH&amp;pd_rd_wg=FCPlj&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=2T2QS7R59SH47NNQZA5K
I got it since it had no wire, but I can't really recommend it as it made my volume weirdly high. I have it set on 1 in Windows (where I would have it on 20 before) and it's just as loud as it would have been on 20.
EDIT: Also note if you use Asio4All drivers, you'll also have to make it the default in the driver settings too.
You need something like this splitter to convert the Surface's 4-ring jack to a regular microphone jack.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0T6PSF
I'll tell you this: you're much better off with a USB microphone.
Something like this will also give you a real mic jack: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8?adgrpid=54530774285&amp;hvadid=274737741295&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvlocphy=9012095&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvpos=1t1&amp;hvqmt=e&amp;hvrand=14103651398692699561&amp;hvtargid=kwd-1059371388&amp;keywords=usb+sound+card&amp;qid=1537924799&amp;sr=8-3&amp;tag=hydsma-20&amp;ref=mp_s_a_1_3
I posted this on buildapc, but didn't get any results. Hope it's okay for me to post this here too. It's a question that involves the use of a steam link.
I've got a pretty silly setup for couch gaming right now which is a result from my lack of proper research (no wireless support) before buying certain accessories. When I'm couch gaming on my TV, I'm hooked up through something like this:
Couch->XBox One Elite Controller (Wired)->Roccat Sova (Wired)->Steam Link (Wired)->PC
I'm looking to get my couch set up to be microphone friendly. My current plan is to get a USB microphone adapter to plug into the Sova, and then have my microphone/headset plugged into the adapter. (https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=pd_cp_23_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00IRVQ0F8&amp;pd_rd_r=MM9NND2RJ7HJBB9CBDRY&amp;pd_rd_w=LGle5&amp;pd_rd_wg=DI0MR&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=MM9NND2RJ7HJBB9CBDRY)
Would this work, or is this not enough? Do I need an external soundcard or something to have audio come through the usb in the Sova?
The other option is to hope for Steam Link to support wireless connection for the XBox One Elite Controller, and see if I can insert a microphone directly into the XBox One Elite Controller. If anyone can help out with this, I'd really appreciate it. My couch gaming setup doesn't feel very efficient, but thats also due to Steam Link not supporting the controller I have over wireless.
No worries - I can't blame you for wanting to get native sound working :)
I think this is the card I ended up using. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
Super cheap but works well for me. And it makes future hack builds easier since I don't need to get too worried about sound.
Yeah I have tried a bunch of distros on it and they all have the same issues. I ended up buying one of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_YCTj7pJsJmYWb for when I need sound. The last few comments on the GitHub issue suggested compiling a custom kernel may work, but the USB adapter I bought is getting me by. Let me know if you have any luck building a kernel.
So followup, I did try out Apple earbuds yesterday and they did not work either. Any ideas left? A friend suggested maybe trying a USB stereo adapter. Think that may work? (The solution is quickly approaching the cost of the problem now!)
I had a similar issue, it's an issue with some sound chips built into the computers.
Pick up something like this inexpensive USB adaptor and plug your headphones into that. It solved the problem for me.
If your port is damaged, you might be able to pick up a cheap usb headphone adapter like this, no need to open case:
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+sound+card&qid=1570265575&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sr=8-3
I use this for audio in on my MacBook Air for my PO-12. Seven bucks. Works great.
Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and Play No Drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3OlWDb09MF0WT
Happy to help! :D
If you're planning on one to install windows, you can do so with a USB thumb drive now! pretty easy using the microsoft media creation tool.
Most cases no longer come with a 5.25" bay for an optical drive, the q300L included. If you just want to use it now-and-then for random tasks, you can get an external drive like this and keep it stashed in a drawer. Bonus, you can use it with a laptop, too! https://www.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-Portable-External-GP65NB60/dp/B00ODDE33U/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=usb+dvd+burner&amp;qid=1569903952&amp;sr=8-4
If something you're doing requires physical media fairly often, you can change to a different case to use a standard DVD or Blu Ray drive like I've picked (there's only room for one in this case, but some offer multiple if you're archiving a collection of CDs or something)
PCPartPicker Part List
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor | $129.30 @ Amazon
Motherboard | Gigabyte B450M DS3H Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $71.99 @ Amazon
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $67.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Intel 660p Series 2.048 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | $184.99 @ Amazon
Case | Thermaltake Versa H15 MicroATX Mid Tower Case | $44.99 @ Walmart
Power Supply | Corsair CXM 550 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply | $69.99 @ Amazon
Optical Drive | LG WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer | $54.08 @ Amazon
Optical Drive | LG GH24NSC0B DVD/CD Writer | $18.88 @ OutletPC
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $99.95 @ Amazon
Wireless Network Adapter | Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I PCIe x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | $33.89 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $776.05
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-10-01 00:23 EDT-0400 |
Just get a USB optical drive for $25 and rip all of your CDs.
https://smile.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-Portable-External-GP65NB60/dp/B00ODDE33U
Looking like the Thermaltake CoreV21
https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Black-Extreme-Chassis-CA-1D5-00S1WN-00/dp/B00PDDMN6S/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484070640&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=Thermaltake+Core+V21
The three main form-factors are ATX, Micro-ATX (m-ATX), and Mini-ITX (mITX or ITX).
You can get ITX cases that are the size of a shoe box (kinda like the one you picked), m-ATX cases are usually a couple inches bigger in each direction. They are still plenty small, but you can worry less about cable management, and have more room for your hands to work in. The only reason, aside from size, to go for ITX is that many of the ITX board have built in WIFI. m-ATX cases and motherboards tend to be $20-$30 cheaper than ITX.
BTW: I've taught several people to build in person. Watch a couple of YouTube channels, read the manual that comes with the motherboard, the center of it usually has a diagram of all the plugs for the motherboard, and take your time.
The Thermaltake Core V21 offers a horizontal mobo layout that would show off your GPU. It's a little more than your $50 though @ $70.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PDDMN6S/?tag=pcpapi-20
Hmm. Okay well my build is a bit different than that because its loud as hell, has a large gpu for gaming, and is a desktop build more than a home theater build.
If you want to build it yourself, check out r/buildapc.
If you want to do the least amount of research (which I don't recommend, because everyone should know what parts they are picking out and why), check out r/buildapcforme.
But a few tips:
Come up with a budget. Check out www.LogicalIncrements.com. It basically shows the best parts you can buy per price point.
Determine the amount of disk space you want, and allocate enough of a budget for the drives. This isn't an issue for light users, but some of us have 4+ TB of media. If you want to set up Sonarr or Plex, anticipate growth.
Determine the number of streams you want to be able to run. My i5-4690k (OC'd) can handle at least 3 streams at original quality (transcoding). That may be overkill for some people but I share my library with by siblings.
The sound issue is going to be a matter of the case and fans you use, and to a small extent, the quality of the disk drives. I can hear my drives going when the computer really warms up, but I kind of like the sound. It's a reminder of the crazy vast amounts of work it is really doing.
This is my case, and I highly recommend it. It's very quiet with the original fan, and the open structure of the paneling makes it an absolute joy to work in.
That being said, you can find the right parts, and put together an HTPC case which is much smaller and perfect for home theaters. But it is not easy putting together a good build in a small case. It requires a certain finesse.
That's all I can really recommend for now but shoot me any more specific questions if you've got them. I love building pc's and have been learning about it pretty steadily for many years now.
The build will fit in this case for an extra 20 bucks
https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Core-Computer-Chassis-CA-1B8-00S6WN-01/dp/B00PDDMN6S/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498067635&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=mini-itx%2Bcase&amp;th=1
-
https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Micro-Computer-Chassis-CA-1D5-00S1WN-00/dp/B00PDDMN6S/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497300802&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=matx+case
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Carbide-Airflow-MicroATX-Mini-ITX/dp/B00LA6WXEO/ref=sr_1_12?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497300802&amp;sr=1-12&amp;keywords=matx+case
https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Enthoo-Evolv-Window-PH-ES215P-BK/dp/B00U8625HC/ref=sr_1_13?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497300802&amp;sr=1-13&amp;keywords=matx+case
https://www.amazon.com/BitFenix-Micro-Mini-ITX-Motherboard-BFC-PRM-300-WWWKW-RP/dp/B00T2WIRUC/ref=sr_1_18?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497300802&amp;sr=1-18&amp;keywords=matx+case
Thermaltake Core V21 https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Black-Extreme-Chassis-CA-1D5-00S1WN-00/dp/B00PDDMN6S
No, this one is strictly ITX. Maybe you're thinking of this one?
If you want to stick with small form factor, there are a few micro-atx (mATX) cases out there. Here is one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PDDMN6S/
Most small form factor (HTPC) cases require an itx motherboard, the one I just linked will use a micro-atx motherboard.
Unless you are trying to save on some room, a mid-tower is a lot easier to work in though and tends to be a tad bit cheaper.
Here is a well reviewed and beautiful case for $60 on the dot, free shipping with amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PDDMN6S?keywords=computer%20case&amp;qid=1450414984&amp;ref_=sr_1_26&amp;refinements=p_36%3A3000-6500%2Cp_85%3A2470955011&amp;s=pc&amp;sr=1-26
and here is a review of the case
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xwOL5QYxJD4
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 3 1200 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor | €104.64
Motherboard | MSI - B350M GAMING PRO Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | €84.00
Storage | Crucial - MX300 275GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | €90.00
Storage | Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | €45.00
Video Card | MSI - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB GAMING X Video Card | €271.00
Case | Corsair - 100R ATX Mid Tower Case | €54.00
Other | Corsair CP-9020097-UK VS550 ATX/EPS Vs Series 80 Plus Power Supply Unit | €46.00
Other | Crucial 8GB Single DDR4 2400 MT/s (PC4-192000) DIMM 288-Pin Memory - CT8G4DFD824A | €85.63
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | €780.27
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-11-12 13:00 GMT+0000 |
ALL of these are from Amazon UK, i just simply converted all prices from Pound to Euro. Build was £690 or 780 Euros Total.
RYZEN 1200 - https://www.amazon.co.uk/AMD-YD1200BBAEBOX-Wraith-Stealth-Cooler/dp/B0741DN383/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510491545&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ryzen+1200
MOBO - https://www.amazon.co.uk/MSI-B350M-GAMING-PRO-Motherboard/dp/B06WXX7FR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510490987&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=MSI+-+B350M+GAMING+PRO
1TB HDD - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Blue-Desktop-Hard-Disk-Drive/dp/B0088PUEPK/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510491127&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=1tb+hdd&amp;dpID=51DmuZNyIGL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
275GB SSD-
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01IAGSD5O/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1
GTX 1060 6GB - https://www.amazon.co.uk/MSI-GTX-1060-GAMING-DisplayPort/dp/B01IEKYD5U/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510491432&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=gtx+1060+6gb
CASE - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CC-9011075-WW-Windowed-Mid-Tower-Computer/dp/B00RORBQNW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510491311&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=corsair+100r
PSU - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CP-9020097-UK-PLUS-Power-Supply/dp/B00TE4XSMA/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510491365&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=500w+psu
RAM - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Crucial-DDR4-2400-PC4-19200-288-Pin/dp/B019FRED60/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510491809&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=8gb+ddr4&amp;dpID=41TDZYwtkwL&amp;preST=_SX300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
Corsair Carbide Series 100R Mid Tower Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RORBQNW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rfONxb16NVSJ0
Here's a cheaper case to cut some of the cost off.
Can take a 41cm card.
Here's some proof
Corsair 100R
Fractal Design Focus G
Phanteks Eclipse P300
&#x200B;
Amazon.ca also has this for $44.99 with free shipping (but no MIR)
https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Carbide-100R-Tower-CC-9011075-WW/dp/B00RORBQNW/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521734291&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=corsair+carbide
When trying to decide on what power your PC needs a good website to use is http://gpu.userbenchmark.com/ - it'll give you a general idea since I get confused with all the "i7/i5/i3 XXXX gen X" nonsense too.
That'll build you a tower. Then you just need external components. Monitor, keyboard, mouse, headset, chair, desk, etc. Depending on what you have available and stuff it can vary so I'll let you price out that stuff.
$1,358 pre-taxes if you go with i7 8700k, and GTX 1060 3 GB. For the tower. Taxes in, plus all the other components you're still looking at pushing close to $2000. That's CND I think. If you do a little shopping around you might get a decent deal on a few items and look into different price points between AMD and Intel if you choose their Board/Chip/GPU combos.
CASE SALE Corsair Carbide Series 100R Mid Tower Case CC-9011075-WW WAS=$72.98 NOW=$59.99+FS https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00RORBQNW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&amp;psc=1
I'm building my first PC, and ordered this case
&#x200B;
Am I meant to provide my own case fans? How should I know what kind to get?
Amd Ryzens are pretty nice at the moment and cheap. Ryzen 1600 is a good choice. I recommend a SSD disk and a second one HDD so you have a faster system and also an storage disk. Graphic card will be the hardest. Maybe a cheap 1050 2 gb will do.
Processor: Ryzen 1600 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XNRQHG4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520330748&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=ryzen+5+1600&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=319ktX3yGXL&amp;ref=plSrch
Hard disk (hdd): barracuda works - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IEKG402/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520330798&amp;sr=8-5&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=hdd&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=5152Tk32IxL&amp;ref=plSrch
Graphic card (gt 1050; 2 gb) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MEGB6LK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520330867&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=1050+2gb&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51KuYAEIFPL&amp;ref=plSrch
Motherboard: B350 for ryzen - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06WVFFXXL/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520331052&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=b350&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51%2BX8pCoVML&amp;ref=plSrch
Ram: corsair vengeance 8 gb - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ARHBBPS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520331152&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=ram+ddr4+8gb&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41fGQgRH9hL&amp;ref=plSrch
Heatsink from artic - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005IOLEJO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520331385&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=heatsink+for+ryzen&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51vHMnzWlEL&amp;ref=plSrch
Power supply: standard - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014W3EMAO/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520331603&amp;sr=8-7&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=power+supply+650w&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51jq9j94-TL&amp;ref=plSrch
Case: also standard stuff - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00RORBQNW/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520331936&amp;sr=8-5&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=pc+case&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41Wq97Jk20L&amp;ref=plSrch
The total is around 700. You may need to add some more things put this is enough for full functionallity. Also, I wouldnt buy the parts on amazon, but this way you can search them in a good electronics shop from your country which adds the assembly. Standards can be changed easily, that depends on what you preffer.
Are you talking about something like this?
Are you sure that this is even a problem? I thought that backplates were supposed to prevent significant GPU sag.
https://www.amazon.com/Puget-Systems-Universal-Acrylic-Brace/dp/B019ZZQVK8
http://www.amazon.com/Puget-Systems-Universal-Acrylic-Brace/dp/B019ZZQVK8
This product would help. There are a couple of other companies that I've seen make them. But, sadly, this is the only one I can find right now.
You could also use a stick. Saw that Galax has a stick they send with their GTX 1070/1080 Hall of Fame cards. If you want to be flash, I wouldn't recommend using an unsharpened pencil...but.
I've also seen this:
https://www.amazon.com/Puget-Systems-Universal-Acrylic-Brace/dp/B019ZZQVK8
Though 18 dollars and shipping for a piece of acrylic is a lot for what it is, it may serve the purpose.
Also zip ties > twisty ties every day of the week.
Pugnet Systems sells an acrylic GPU brace that looks good in any system. It's worth the investment, trust me.
Edit: Amazon link
As long as you have rear PCI slots below your GPU for the bracket to attach to there is no reason you couldn't use it inverted.
Just FYI, you can get cheaper brackets such as this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Puget-Systems-Universal-Acrylic-Brace/dp/B019ZZQVK8
Got you fam: http://www.amazon.com/Puget-Systems-Universal-Acrylic-Brace/dp/B019ZZQVK8/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452389363&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=Puget+Systems+Universal+Acrylic+GPU+Brace%5C
I was recommended to help support the GPU
Yeah, saw it on Amazon and thought it might be a good idea since GPUs keep getting bigger. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019ZZQVK8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019ZZQVK8/
Here are the extension cables I have! They’re great and have had them for almost a year with no issues
Try this Phanteks set.
They are made by Phanteks.
Phanteks 24 Pin/ 8pin (4+4) M/B, 8pin (6+2) PCI-E Extension Cable Kit 500mm Length, White (PH-CB-CMBO_WT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G7VOYYS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vlbuDbWARWCTP
Is there a difference between cable extensions and the ones that are meant for fully modular PSU's? I plan on buying these and dont know if the 24 pin connector they offer are gonna work https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Extension-Cable-Length-PH-CB-CMBO_WT/dp/B01G7VOYYS/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=phanteks+white+cables&qid=1563588101&s=gateway&sr=8-1
You can always get cable extensions if you don't have any luck here.
https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PCI-E-Extension-Length-PH-CB-CMBO-WT/dp/B01G7VOYYS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494436959&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=white+cable+extensions
Since they don't connect to the power supply, they work with everything.
I just got the same case as you yesterday! Question about the white cables, are they these? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G7VOYYS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lep6AbSVE3QX2
Yep. I use this one because it was the cheapest at the time. I just use the USB input/output and the switch button and leave the VGA cable hanging behind the pcs.
The one above works fine, but I'd probably buy this one since it has more usb ports and doesn't have the unnecessary VGA cables. (Check to make sure everything you need is included. Looks like that might be missing a power source).
How would you vocalise the difference between this and this? Would you say the latter is a hub with the capabilities with a switch?
Edit: The second item calls itself a "Switcher Box Hub" to state the difference.
Thanks!
Yep, using this hub, and just manually switch the monitor over. Next up is another monitor and maybe a vertical docking station for the MacBook Air. Oh. And figure out what to do with the disaster of a cord mess underneath. Lol.
> Does such device exists or I have to buy a 3D printer ?
sounds like you're after a KVM switch, but I'm not sure there's one only for USB and for such number of ports. Edit: they are, but expensive.
4 port: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Selector-Computers-Peripheral-One-Button/dp/B01MXXQKGM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540208077&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=kvm+switch+usb+hub
2 port: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Selector-Computers-Peripheral-One-Button/dp/B01MXXQKGM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540208077&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=kvm+switch+usb+hub
3D printer won't do you jack if you don't have the electronic components to put inside a 3d printed case.
Actually they have gotten alot better now. I just tried a usb switcher for mouse and keyboard for my two computers and it works fairly well.
USB switcher
If you don't want to/can't go the software route, I just use one of these kvm switches to share USB devices. I find it easier to work with than software, one button to switch, no constantly running services in the background.
I use a USB Switch Selector with the Main XIM Apex USB hub. I was struggling changing out the USB ports from console to PC and after much research the USB Switch was exactly what I needed to easily switch from Console to PC with the click of a button.
Here it is for anyone interested: USB Switch Selector
Yup.
Actually I eventually got rid of the KVM entirely and just got a powered USB switcher box: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Selector-Computers-Peripheral-One-Button/dp/B01MXXQKGM But that approach relies on you dealing with the video yourself. (In my case, my monitors have multiple inputs.)
I used google to search for what you want and this was the very first link.
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Selector-Computers-Peripheral-One-Button/dp/B01MXXQKGM
I have no idea if that brand is good, but at least it will give you an idea of the type of device to research.
I bring my laptop to work and hook it up to one of my monitors. I use an hdmi for the laptop and the new monitor inputs for the desktop. Just have to switch the input on the monitor if I need to switch over. I don’t do it often so no big deal. I also use a usb switcher so my one mouse and keyboard work on both computers/monitors. It switches with a push of the button. All the ones that let you push a button and have the one monitor switch between laptop/desktop had people complaining in the reviews. Having to restart the computer each time or some such thing. So I just went with the two cable option for that.
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Selector-Computers-Peripheral-One-Button/dp/B01MXXQKGM/
I found this cool thing yesterday.
I wish it was a tiny bit faster (takes like 4 seconds to switch, but that might be because one comp is windows 7 and the other is 10) it gets the job done
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Selector-Computers-Peripheral-One-Button/dp/B01MXXQKGM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=25A8YDRL4YYJF&amp;keywords=usb+switch&amp;qid=1554604835&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=usb+sw&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;psc=1
Went with this so I could share controllers, keyboard and mouse, and I gotta say I'm pretty happy so far.
I use this USB switcher to switch between my iMac and my windows gaming computer. I designed/3D printed a mount and mounted the switcher underneath my desk so its a quick push-of-a-button switch between the two. Could be a convenient upgrade for your nice setup!
Well a on board sound card can create static noise and other issues which might be helped by something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524710135&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=usb+mic+sound+card&amp;psc=1
Whether OP should go for a USB adapter or an adapter cable depends mostly on the quality of the laptop's DAC. Cheap USB adapters have pretty bad quality and are about the same price as a cable. If the laptop is only a few years old, then the on-board audio is probably better than a cheap USB adapter, so a cable would be better.
Link to an example of the type of cable OP is looking for: https://www.amazon.com/Headsets-Splitter-Separate-Headphone-Nintendo/dp/B07FB8LCQ7/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=4+pole+adapter&amp;qid=1563189665&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=4+pole+ad&amp;sr=8-6
Link to a USB adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?keywords=usb+dac+microphone&amp;qid=1563189766&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=USB+DAC+mic&amp;sr=8-9
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
You could always get one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
They work perfectly.
I'm pretty sure you can get a crappy little USB device with a 1/8" mic input and use that. The sound isn't going to be great but it might hold you over in the meantime. Something like this or this (along with cable adapter(s)) i think would work.
Otherwise, I'd probably be spending all my time learning the blofeld and making patches for it. That synth is basically limitless with its possibilities. Try to make some patches that sound like the gear you want (e piano, etc.).
And get some VSTs! There are plenty of solid-sounding free ones - you can compose your ass off with just free software.
This was recommended on the GalliumOS Braswell thread: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
A warning about Braswells with the Realtek ALC5650 audio chip (like yours): a small number of people have reported speaker damage (literal physical damage), which seems to happen more often when not booted into ChromeOS (so either at the boot menu, at the dev mode screen, or booted into a Linux).
There's no clear explanation for this, since Linux does not currently initialize the audio chip. Only the ChromeOS bootloader does any init when you're at the dev mode screen, at the boot menu, or booted into Linux. So it's (seemingly literally) impossible that Linux does anything wrong, and anyway there should be no reason for uninitialized hardware to break itself. I think it will be marginal or defective audio chips, or maybe speakers (but Braswells with the Maxim MAX98090 chip have so far not shown any problems, so for now Realtek is the common element).
Some people are disconnecting the internal speakers, which is certainly safer, but I'd probably be inclined to leave it as is, see if it fails, and be prepared to exchange it if there's any indication of problems. With zero moral hesitation.
Are you using the 3.5mm jack on your motherboard? I use it and my friends can hear static when I talk on discord. I think it's just the 3.5mm jack in general. I was planning to buy this to fix the static problem.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480489332&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=usb+sound+card
Do you think it'd work?
From what I can tell, on my MacBook Pro, the headphone port is just that. A headphone port, with no microphone adjustment. I could only make it work with my desktop.
EDIT: What you need is a USB mic-input. Something like this should work just fine.
got this one. shipped really fast
good point, thanks for your input! Do you run an external soundcard?
*edit
I was thinking of buying something like this, since the alpha doesn't have an aux headphone or mic input. No problems here, right?
Ok, thanks.
Would something like this do?
Or do I need a different one?
yes. You could get a cheap usb soundcard to get rid of that issue. If you don't care about hifi quality you can get them pretty cheap.
I had this card for my laptop where the audio port broke and the quality is ok:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503235901&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=usb+sound+card
Longest without removing front IO: between 240mm and 250mm
Longest after removing front IO: 267mm
Vega 56 seems to be 267mm which is right at the max with no front IO, but if there's any small bit jutting out or improperly measured it may barely not fit. If you wait for non-reference cards there may be shorter ones (e.g. my ASUS DUAL 1070 is 240mm vs reference 1070 is 267mm). Otherwise, use back USB ports/get a USB hub for easier access. Use audio/mic on the rear IO or get a USB audio adapter like this Sabrent.
I'm struggling to think of much else!
Can you try the headset in your phone (without the splitter this time) and confirm that it does work properly there? Also how about trying some other microphone/headset in your PC?
An odd part from your answers is that the back ports give you nothing... Are they certainly the right ones? Can you make sure your speakers aren't set to the wrong configuration (see here)? A photo of the back of your computer would be nice to confirm. I might take a poke around the BIOS in case the ports have been accidentally disabled somehow.
If it's certainly the PC that is acting up, and the headphones are fine, then a cheap soundcard would side-step the problem. USB or PCI.
Amazon makes some pretty good USB mics for not too much and USB extenders are cheap. I think they even make USB to aux adapters. I'd say that's the cheaper more cost effective method honestly
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NZ3M9SK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IIkXCbWC1YDH0
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH13UFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IJkXCbRQX4KJ1
And if you're really married to the idea of the turtle beaches
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lKkXCbFVXBHPP
it is possible to short out the ports my best suggestion would be to pickup a USB to 3.5mm converter off amazon for like 3 bucks and use it
I have used this one many time and it has worked quit well
I had this issue -- had an external sound card much like this one. If you're looking for something temporary while looking and shopping for a DAC, I would go for this (especially with the quick shipping).
I don't think it's necessarily a drop in quality compared to your computer's soundcard too. Although if your computer has adjacent usb ports, you essentially lose a port due to the design.
I use this one: Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and play No drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Works great!
You can use USB headphone dongles on the ps4 like this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484355674&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=usb+audio&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=510hmUWxucL&amp;ref=plSrch
I use one on mine to connect it to better speakers causee my tv sounds like crap
So maybe get like a USB extension cable to reach you or a headphone extension cable :)
Thank you very much! This is the Yamaha P-45 digital piano and I'm wearing the Audio-Technica ATH-T22 headphones which came with the piano.
To record the audio, it took several components. (Bear with me, I'm gonna be as specific as possible so it might get complicated.) The P-45 has both a USB and Headphone port. To record AUDIO, you MUST use the headphone out port. (The USB is only for MIDI recordings.)
To do so, I got a "1/4 inch TRS to Dual 1/4 inch TRSF Y cable" and plugged it into the headphone port. The Y cable splits a single port into 2 connections so that I can hook one to my Mac and record audio and the other one I use to plug in my headphones (or else I won't be able to hear my playing because that headphone port is the only source of sound outward).
Now it's just a matter of attaching adapters to make a 1/4 inch cable into a 1/8 inch (the only one that'll fit into that headphone port).
I got a 10 foot, "1/4 inch TRS cable" and plugged it into one of the Y ports so that it could reach my Mac. On the end of the 1/4 inch TRS cable, I attached a "1/4 inch Female to 1/8 inch Male adapter".
Next, I attached this sound adapter (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) to my Mac, and plugged in the 1/8 inch male end into the sound adapter so that I could get audio information into my computer. Then I just used Garage Band to record the audio!
IN SUMMARY ... Piano -> Y cable -> 10 foot 1/4 inch cable -> 1/4 inch to 1/8 inch adapter -> Sound adapter -> Computer. I don't know if this is the most efficient way, but it's what I learned through trial-and-error and from hours of research over the course of a week. I am more than happy to answer any questions to make it super simple for you.
Is the Logitech headset USB only?
If so, the answer is no.
If it's a 3.5mm jack, get this external sound card for 6 bucks. You plug audio channel in for the green jack and plug in the microphone channel for pink.
You could theoretically plug in two separate headsets.
Hey guys, I'm trying to make a voice changer for a costume with a Raspberry Pi 3 and PitchBox software.
I have this USB soundcard connected with a mic. I know it works cause when I speak I can hear my voice through the speakers without any sort of modulation.
When I attempt to use PitchBox it gives me a "failed to open audio device error." I have the soundcard set as my default device and ALSA is the default driver. I've tried to change the device in ALSA but i still get the failed message and I've tried to change the settings in PitchBox itself but still nothing.
Any ideas on what I can try to fix this?
I tried all these things and none of them worked. My Mobo is an ASUS Z-97-E. I tried a clean install avoiding multibeast and still no sound devices detected.
I have read that the codec my Mobo uses according to its specs is not supported in Sierra.
I bypassed the problem by using this sound adaptor. I just plugged it in and viola it works and requires no driver's or configuration. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I am not the only one who has had to go this route and it's a darned cheap solution.
Everyone: Thanks for the help. I assumed it was some electrical issue on her computer's end, but good to know a USB sound card works as a workaround and I don't have to go to her office and crack her computer open :) I decided to spend a few bucks to get the best-reviewed one on Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A29Y8OP2GPR7PE
Thanks again for the help!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002LM0U2S/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498745874&amp;sr=8-7&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=usb+sound+card+dual+mic&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41vusjGecFL&amp;ref=plSrch
Here's the one I use, I got it for around 20 though, and it only has 2 inputs. Alternatively, you could buy two of these,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498746083&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=usb+sound+card&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51FLiQuh7EL&amp;ref=plSrch
and use them in conjunction with your computer's microphone Jack, provided you have enough usb ports.
My recommendation is to shop around, your problem should be easily solved with under 20 bucks. Good luck :)
Something like this could work. If you have an extra usb.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1453144607&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=usb+audio+interface&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51FLiQuh7EL&amp;ref=plSrch
I got this one:
http://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1452223238&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=usb+sound+card&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51X7EKiV8fL&amp;ref=plSrch
It's been great so far.
I was in the same boat as you until now. My MB also uses Realtek audio (Gigabyte GA-H110M-A) and the only solution I've found for getting my mic to playback at a normal volume is using all of the following:
Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and play No drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA)
Maeline 3.5mm Female to 2 Male Gold Plated Headphone Mic Audio Y Splitter Flat Cable
Panasonic ErgoFit In-Ear Earbuds Headphones with Mic/Controller RP-TCM125-K (Black)
Total is about $25. Weird thing is if I plug headphones and a mic separately into the USB piece the mic volume then goes back to being low.
This isn't the best solution, but I know there are a lot of folks out there struggling with crappy ass Realtek.
You could use this with any USB hub, or get a more expensive DAC if you are concerned about audio quality.
Note that both this device and what /u/Overflooow mentions have the DAC (Digital to Analog Coverter) in the device, so motherboard audio is not used at all. If you would prefer to use motherboard audio (no real reason to), you can get a couple of a 3.5mm extensions.
Wonder if it’s the port on the computer. Is this a laptop or desktop? You could get a usb to 3.5mm plug just to test. Let me find a link, I have one.
Edit:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IRVQ0F8?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title
My headphone jack also went loose, and cannot properly connect a headphone any more. So, I did this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8
Works pretty darn well!
How soon do you plan on building this? If you can wait a couple months the NVIDIA GTX 880 will be out soon, and it's supposed to be around the price of the 770 when it came out (about $400, US). This is probably the worst time of the year to build a computer. Devil's Canyon and Z97 did just come out, but Intel is still do for X99 and Haswell-E, NVIDIA is releasing Maxwell, and AMD probably has some stuff being announced soon.
Otherwise it looks good, the only things I would change would be the power supply (for an EVGA SuperNOVA), the motherboard (to something from ASUS), I would maybe get a cheaper SSD as the 850 Pro series don't really offer much more for the premium. An 840 EVO or a Crucial MX100 of the same price would be the optimal as far as price/performance. I would also recommend against getting a 7.1 headset, I've tried them and they're terrible, as an alternative I'd get a cheap pair of studio headphones like the Audio-Technica ATH-M50 and a desktop microphone.
Edit 1: I would recommend getting a case with better airflow as well. Something like the Phanteks Enthoo Pro is a good value case with much better airflow, and has a nice aesthetic.
It's actually this case!
Would highly recommend it. Cable management system is fantastic, it's cool and looks great! A cover thing comes for the top grill, which is like a mesh looking plastic thing (technical term).
Phanteks Enthoo Pro https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K6S1B3Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HrizCb4MCK8W4
Or if you want the TG version https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078K32G27/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ksizCbP3VZK7Z
Edit: I have built in this case and Cable management is no sweat!
Anyone know of a decent under-desk PC holder for a larger case? I've looked around online and found quite a few holders but they seem to max out at around 9" in width while mine is 10".
This is my case: http://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Enthoo-Chassis-Window-PH-ES614P_BK/dp/B00K6S1B3Q?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s04
And this is the holder I had decided on before realizing that my rig was too wide: http://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Enthoo-Chassis-Window-PH-ES614P_BK/dp/B00K6S1B3Q?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s04
well, that's pretty vague but this is a cheap-ish, good case.
Cases are largely a stylistic choice at this point. I can't tell you what style you'll like best, but I can recommend Phanteks's cases. I have this case and I love it. (it's a big big though, so you'll need to consider your workspace) Phanteks cases are reasonably priced, have good build quality and have all of the "nice to have" features I really like in a case.
Other brands I'd recommend looking into:
If you can go with this case
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K6S1B3Q?tag=pcpapi-20&amp;linkCode=ogi&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
Its the same one i have. Easy for cable management
Got lazy. I'll just put it here for everyone to see. Maybe others will even give advice on whether or not it is shipment friendly
https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Enthoo-Chassis-Window-PH-ES614P_BK/dp/B00K6S1B3Q
http://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Enthoo-Chassis-Window-PH-ES614P_BK/dp/B00K6S1B3Q this is my case i have 200mm int he front 2 120mm on the top and bottom and 1 120mm in the back
ok so now i have it exaust in the front and bottom and intake from top and back ? ill change it tommarow im kinda salty cuz i flipped the back one when i first got it thinking it was wrong... thanks for noticing reddit :)
Phanteks Enthoo Pro - http://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Enthoo-Chassis-Window-PH-ES614P_BK/dp/B00K6S1B3Q
I need your opinion on this case
Also, would it be awful to have my computer sitting on carpet? It wouldn't be directly touching the carpet because of the little tiny legs on the computer, but I could stick something like a rubber mat under the computer or something.
OK I have looked around I'm still confused so i hope you guys can help.
I have a NZXT s340 case and a MSI H110M GAMING LGA1151 motherboard. Im looking at Gigabyte Nvidia GTX 1050 GDDR5 2GB PCI-E for my video card. Would this be compatible with my stuff? If you have a recommendation for a different £110/$135 video card let me know.
Here's the Golden boy case of reddit,
Loved by all, including me, good cable management, good cooling, sturdy, side window, white and black design
For $70 just be sure to choose the seller NZXT as for some reason the main posted seller is asking for 100 dollars which is madness
https://www.amazon.com/NZXT-Tower-Computer-White-CA-S340W-W1/dp/B00NGMIBXC?th=1&amp;psc=1
Hopefully, someday, some time, I get my dream PC. If you need help with parts or anything let me know and I'll be happy to help. Also, here are some cases that I like :-
https://www.amazon.com/NZXT-S340-Tower-CA-S340W-W1-White/dp/B00NGMIBXC/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473528432&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=nzxt+s340
https://www.amazon.com/Noctis-Tower-CA-N450W-M1-Matte-Black/dp/B00VX1L31K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473568199&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=nzxt+noctis
https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Enthoo-Evolv-Computer-Case/dp/B01F0KWTXA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473568215&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=phantek+enthoo+evolv
Go for the NZXT s340 they have the same price . https://www.amazon.com/NZXT-Tower-Computer-White-CA-S340W-W1/dp/B00NGMIBXC/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494183611&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=nzxt+s340
is it like this one? https://www.amazon.com/NZXT-CA-S340W-W2-Elite-Tower-White/dp/B00NGMIBXC/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497993963&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=nzxt%2Bs340%2Belite&amp;th=1
not sure if there's a big difference between the "elite" and this one
I was thinking of buying this case. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NGMIBXC/?tag=pcpapi-20
Case is NZXT-S340. Heres a link
https://www.amazon.com/NZXT-S340-Tower-CA-S340W-W1-White/dp/B00NGMIBXC
As for overclocking I haven't tried yet with the CPU, Just making sure everything is working and there's no issues with anything. As for the Video card, I've had the core clock stable at 2078 with +750 on the memory clock.
CPU overclock will be soon :-)
So thanks to your list i think i know what im aiming for now.
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/rXrpJx
1 8G card for room to upgrade and two drives.
just to be sure i go through with it i just bought this and a keyboard. No turning back now!
http://www.amazon.com/NZXT-Mid-Tower-CA-S340W-W1-Glossy-White/dp/B00NGMIBXC/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1425501197&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=nzxt+case
Hap hap hello there! I am a bot and you linked to Amazon.
This comment contains 1 pricing graph(s)
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Product 1: LG Electronics 8X USB 2.0 Super Multi Ultra Slim Portable DVD+/-RW External Drive with M-DISC Support (Black) GP65NB60 (B00ODDE33U)
Imgur pricing graph
||Amazon|3P New|Used|
|--:|:--|:--|:--|
|Cur|$24.99|$21.00|$18.50|
|Hi|$29.99|$28.99|$40.00|
|Lo|$20.99|$1.41|$7.61|
|Avg|$25.35|$16.52|$19.33|
_____
^^I'm ^^a ^^bot. ^^Please ^^PM ^^any ^^bugs
I got you man! http://www.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-Portable-External-GP65NB60/dp/B00ODDE33U/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463720852&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=external+dvd+drive
There's not really many options for you without access to another PC. The only option I can think of is setting up a rooted android phone as a bootable Ubuntu liveCD and making a USB via Windows 10 ISO and dd (disk dump) command, or seeing if you can boot directly from the Windows 10 ISO from your rooted android phone. Here's a link to the playstore app which lets you do so. If you also don't have a rooted android phone, you may end up having to buy a USB CD/DVD burner to try at the library. Or see if someone will ship you a Windows 10 bootable USB drive (which would require you to input your own product key during install), but that is of course risky with all the viruses and malware floating around. Hope any of this helps!
Word yea I mean just grab 2 of these. Haven’t heard anyone say burn games in so long lol
Get two of these. Save the headache I the case of the extra wires. Also they are smaller and easy to store
LG Electronics 8X USB 2.0 Super Multi Ultra Slim Portable DVD Writer Drive +/-RW External Drive with M-DISC Support (Black) GP65NB60 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ODDE33U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2yvxDbZF4FD3G
Also swap one of your ssds out with this it’s faster and again less cables
Intel SSD 660p Series (1.0TB M.2 80mm PCIe 3.0 x 4 3D2 QLC) 2 2281" (SSDPEKNW010T8X1 ) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GCL6BR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bBvxDbRA6WFB8
Cd-rom, wouldn't that be compatible with this https://www.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-Portable-External-GP65NB60/dp/B00ODDE33U/ref=pd_day0_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00ODDE33U&amp;pd_rd_r=NVRNQVXD1EQ7RWTVF92M&amp;pd_rd_w=XL7kG&amp;pd_rd_wg=pOnwh&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=NVRNQVXD1EQ7RWTVF92M
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD A10-7700K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | £78.24 @ CCL Computers
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-F2A88XN-WIFI Mini ITX FM2+ Motherboard | £83.58 @ Aria PC
Memory | Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory | £82.58 @ Amazon UK
Storage | Kingston SSDNow UV400 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | £45.96 @ BT Shop
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | £45.96 @ BT Shop
Video Card | Zotac GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Mini Video Card | £134.84 @ Ebuyer
Case | Silverstone RVZ01B Mini ITX Desktop Case | £86.99 @ Overclockers.co.uk
Power Supply | Silverstone 500W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply | £80.99 @ Overclockers.co.uk
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | £639.14
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-04 15:01 GMT+0000 |
The chassis does have a dvd slot but you can buy an external one with the excess money, and if you want you can change the gpu to a rx 470 or 480.
https://www.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-Portable-External-GP65NB60/dp/B00ODDE33U/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483542172&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=external+dvd+drive
I've never heard of this but staples or office depot would sound like a good choice.
You can always purchase a USB CD writer for rather cheap and duplicate it yourself from a PC or non-iOS smartphone.
Hey,
I agree with the Lenovo Flex 5, it is a great 2-in-1 device that is also touchscreen. The uses you listed that should be no issue on this laptop. It runs Windows 10 Home. Sadly, there is no CD drive but you can buy an external one for very cheap.
https://smile.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-Portable-External-GP65NB60/dp/B00ODDE33U/
https://smile.amazon.com/Verbatim-CD-R-700MB-Minute-Recordable/dp/B003ZDNZSI/
That drive will burn either CDs or DVDs, but you need different physical disks as your starter blanks.
Ok, well, if you have a network, there's no need to directly connect them with a crossover cable. If they can both be on the LAN simultaneously you can share the drive like this:
https://www.howtogeek.com/114254/how-to-share-cd-dvd-drives-over-the-network-on-windows/
&#x200B;
And as an aside, Windows Vista was EOL'd (End of Life) back in April of 2017. This means you're no longer receiving security patches, and software doesn't support it leading to problems in the future. I'd consider getting rid of that computer.
USB attached external DVD drives can also be had fairly inexpensively.
https://www.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-Portable-External-GP65NB60/dp/B00ODDE33U/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1541455387&sr=8-4&keywords=usb+dvd
For Intel its either the i7 6700k/7700k ($300+) or the g4560 ($80). Everything in between go for Ryzen, as well as the $300+ category in some cases when you are doing content creation and need the extra cores/threads, and aren't just going for the highest FPS.
For your budget I would almost certainly go for the Ryzen series over the i5.
Here is something I threw together:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor | $197.88 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | MSI - B350 GAMING PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard | $98.99 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory | $65.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Kingston - A400 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $56.98 @ Newegg
Storage | Seagate - BarraCuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $44.89 @ OutletPC
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB SC GAMING ACX 2.0 Video Card | $158.88 @ OutletPC
Case | Fractal Design - Define C ATX Mid Tower Case | $59.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair - CX (2017) 550W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $59.38 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home Full - USB 32/64-bit | $102.99 @ SuperBiiz
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $845.97
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-01 11:48 EDT-0400 |
1.) So this CPU is most certainly better for pretty much everything. Gaming, streaming, content creation, future proofing, etc. Also the stock cooler it comes with is more than enough.
2.) The faster ram was the same price, also would recommend buying another stick sometime in the future when you can afford it.
3.) Added an SSD you can install your OS on. They're pretty much a necessity these days and make your PC feel so much faster.
4.) Get whichever 1050ti you want, I just added one that had an active price, it was not added to your total on your parts list.
5.) The case you picked was pure crap, not to be rude. Poor build quality, poor layout to build in, and poor airflow. I just threw a random one in there, and that fractal case is nice for the money. If you want to add a 3rd fan still, the ones installed are the Dynamic x2 GP-12
6.) You do not need anywhere close to 750 watts for your PSU. Gave you a newer cheaper one.
7.) Gave you the full retail version of windows 10, because from personal experience. If you swap out mobos due to it dying, or you just don't like it, or you decide to build a whole new computer, you will lose your key and have to buy another. The full retail version transfers to as many mobos/computers as you build. Well worth extra $ to me.
8.) You do not need a DVD drive if you are only buying it to install windows. You can buy the full retail version and use the USB to install it, or if you decide to keep the OEM copy you can make your own USB install stick with the Windows Media Creation Tool. Just google it, very easy. If for some reason you still need a DVD drive for a few programs, I highly recommend you buy an external one from LG or something similar. That way you can still do what you need to do without limiting your pick of PC cases etc.
Example: https://www.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-Portable-External-GP65NB60/dp/B00ODDE33U/ref=zg_bs_1292112011_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=HNSVC6Y8RS9PH2WG5P18
9.) Unless you already have that monitor, get a 1920x1080 monitor instead, 1600x900 is super outdated.
10.) That mouse and keyboard is fine, but if you can spend a but more, these are better:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823129060
The case doesn't have any slots for internal optical drives, so getting an external one like this one would be your best bet.
Windows 10 can be purchased from Amazon and installed via USB drive, btw. I personally like using that option better than the CD.
You can do something like this with a mixer. The questions mainly comes down to: What is it worth to you? Do you use an external DAC/AMP?
If you do use an external DAC/AMP: This will work and will be slightly cheaper.
IF you do not use an external DAC/AMP: This will need extra equipment: Your choice between a DAC/AMP or a USB Sound Card.
The Equipment
Mixer $40 - The mixer is what you will use to control volume of the 2 channels. You can also use it for a microphone if you choose to get one down the road!
Cables x2 $20 - These are for the Output of your computer.
Cable x1 $7 - This cable is for the Output of the mixer.
USB Soundcard $8 - This is OPTIONAL. You only need it if you don't have a DAC/AMP. However it would be a nice addition if you don't want to run a cable to the front of your PC.
Total: $67-$75
The Setup
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496691173&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=usb+external+sound+card&amp;psc=1
something like this - basically you plug it in to a USB port and then plug your headphones into it. the important part is that it doesn't use the realtek audio driver, which I suspect has issues with Frostbite engine (for some reason)
Hi hi hi friends,
I bought my Sennheiser HD 598 CS's during black friday and I cant help but feel like I'm not getting the most out of them. Right now I have them connected, along with a ModMic, to my mobo with this.
I had my eyes set on these;
FiiO E10K
Optomo NuForce
So, my question is, should I get either of these DACs or is it not really worth the price I'm intending to pay? If I should buy a DAC which one of these should I get? Or is there a better one around this price point?
Budget: $150cad
Location: Canada
Thanks for any help!
Your laptop might not support a microphone. Traditional 3.5mm jacks have 3 connectors, left speaker, right speaker and ground. Headset jacks have 4, left speaker, right speaker, microphone and ground. If your laptop can only read the 2 speakers and ground, it literally doesn't have the hardware capability to read microphone signals.
I'd get a USB 3.5mm jack card.
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=MG0GPV1YNHFG89XDKCMN
As long as it fits, it should work. You have to keep in mind that the USB ports on the PS4 are recessed. Something with a cable would be a safer bet.
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=sspa_dk_detail_5?psc=1
Yes, it's worth trying as it will likely solve your problem. I've got a "UGreen" USB audio dongle. It works surprisingly well. Sounds fine.
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520738345&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=ugreen+usb
Alright guys here goes!
First of all I'm using a Intel Movidius neural compute stick to accelerate the raspberry pi's ability to read the graph of a pre-trained MobilenetSSD. I'll move on to training with my own data shortly - https://software.intel.com/en-us/movidius-ncs
This is a great tutorial regarding getting started with the Movidius . I made a few modifications so the presence of an object would halt or trigger a function or method - https://www.pyimagesearch.com/2018/02/19/real-time-object-detection-on-the-raspberry-pi-with-the-movidius-ncs/
This all requires a raspberry pi camera board v2 and an extra long ribbon to allow for head movement -
https://www.robotshop.com/ca/en/raspberry-pi-camera-module-v2.html
https://www.robotshop.com/ca/en/300mm-flex-cable-raspberry-pi-camera.html
As for the head it's a Lynxmotion pan and tilt kit, I bought the servos separately -https://www.robotshop.com/ca/en/lynxmotion-pan-and-tilt-kit-aluminium2.html?gclid=Cj0K
I use the Pigpio library for the servos. Which works with a surprisingly low amount of jitter considering - https://github.com/joan2937/pigpio
I also created my own custom functions in conjunction with the pigpio library in order to add delays to the servo rotation whenever I need, giving me the ability to animate his movement further.
I'm struggling to reliably stabilise his ultrasonic range sensor so I'm thinking of moving on to lidar once I get back to the UK but you can grab a cheap HC-SR04 sensor for ~$5 easily -https://www.robotshop.com/ca/en/hc-sr04-ultra01-ultrasonic-range-finder.html
I use the Adafruit motor hat, specifically designed for the Raspberry pi - https://github.com/adafruit/Adafruit-Motor-HAT-Python-Library.
https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-dc-and-stepper-motor-hat-for-raspberry-pi/overview
The hat works in conjunction with some pretty hefty 12v DC geared motor, although I don't remember their RPM. Either way they allow for some pretty granular movement that gives the anthropomorphic vibe I was looking for!
As i mentioned below too the treads are Lynxmotion and the chassis is Lynxmotion and part debris form the prototype build. the lynxmotion chassis is great because it has a bunch of space to house two battery packs and excess wire. One pack for the track motors and one pack for the servos -
https://www.robotshop.com/ca/en/lynxmotion-tri-track-chassis-kit.html
Throw in a bunch of 1/2 size perma-proto boards from Adafruit, some custom circuitry, a max98306 stereo amplifier, a powerboost 1000c, a 5v lipo, a Ugreen USB sound card, 2 8 ohm 0.5w speakers, some hacked up acrylic housing from an old Arduino Uno, and you have a surprisingly powerful sound system -
https://www.adafruit.com/product/987
https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-powerboost-1000c-load-share-usb-charge-boost/overview
https://www.amazon.ca/UGREEN-Universal-3-Position-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_2/131-4509517-7844215?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01N905VOY&pd_rd_r=14e1a4dc-62b7-11e9-af2b-df456cd2a423&pd_rd_w=rTNLv&pd_rd_wg=z1Y3n&pf_rd_p=a62e2918-d998-4bbb-8337-35aac776e851&pf_rd_r=KJNTZV474QCZ8NXNA09X&psc=1&refRID=KJNTZV474QCZ8NXNA09X
https://www.adafruit.com/product/571
To play sound within the program itself I just use the os library and aplay.
For speech synthesis I use a Marytts local text to speech server - https://github.com/marytts/marytts.
Add to that some simple use of the Python format method, a library of random phrases I'm slowly building and you have a talking robot.
Oh hey and it's worth mentioning that the raspberry pi itself is powered by a simple portable charging bank and that power to the tracks, head, raspberry pi and sound are all on separate circuits with switches for the sake of debugging.
In terms of how the recognition affects movement. I have a detection method running in one thread. If an object is present according to the pre-trained model it assigns the object class to a global attribute. In the main thread I have his movement methods running - that can literally do anything so long as the object/objects isn't present - otherwise the method triggers a return statement and he moves on to the next function in the main program etc.
Now I have all of this up and running I'm hoping to have him follow the object he's been assigned to find! Hopefully I'll have a video of that up soon :D
If it's a 3.5mm mic, you will need a USB soundcard (like this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N905VOY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1)
Plug that in, plug the mic into that and it will work (or so I've read, I'm actually trying this out tonight when I get home from work, so I'll post back in a few hours the results)
If you have the Tonor USB mic, I believe that'll be strict plug and play.
I'm in the same boat as you, but unfortunately I can't connect my headset to the PC directly. The only potential work around I have is using a USB headset adapter like this to see if that helps with the echo. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XP5R449/
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But that's a little steep for something that should work as is with the equipment you have. I really hope they fix this audio issue soon as I can't play with friends on PC otherwise.
I would make sure you don't have the Stereo Mix under recording devices enabled, as that could be causing an echo as well.
Buying $200 worth of DAC/Amp equipment for $150 headphones going into a game console is way not worth it.
/u/LordanTroi, if you're sitting right beside your PS4 in front of a monitor like I'm imagining (since you used to plug in your headphones directly into your monitor), just go ahead and get a USB to 3.5mm adapter and call it a day. Your volume will be fine. Don't get type C -> 3.5mm; the PS4 doesn't have a type C port. It's the normal blocky one we've been using for ages, that's called USB type A.
UGREEN USB Sound Card External Converter, USB Audio Adapter with 3.5mm Aux Stereo for Headset, PC, Laptops, Desktops, PS4, Windows, Mac, and Linux https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XP5R449/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uS9rzbSS3XTQR
So an extension cable is almost guaranteed to only be TRS and not a 4 pole connector like what your apple headphones need. Easiest way would be something like this and if you need extra length, then get a USB extension.
Something like this?:
https://www.amazon.ca/UGREEN-Adapter-External-Stereo-Headset/dp/B06XP5R449
If I plug the USB into the PS4, and use a double-ended Aux, will sound come out of the speakers?
> Mic Y Splitter Cable
There are also USB adapters with a headphone jack and a mic input like this one though depending on the connector you could just use one like this
Use something like this in the usb port on the headset.
Sadly I don't have that option
And yes the headphones were in the proper way haha
Thanks for your link, I think I found what would work for my Astro in the related items
this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XP5R449/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wKCdBbZGD9Y92
ty
You need this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XP5R449/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Works great for my xbone headset
i used to want to upgrade my pc audio and get a DAC/AMP setup. i tried this with my Vmoda Crossfade M100s with boom mic pro and it sounds great. just plugs into one of my front USB ports and use my standard 3.5mm jack from my boom mic pro cable. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XP5R449/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
i believe the Q702 have 62ohm impedance with 105db sensitivity, so they should be easily driven by your onboard sound.
as far as problems reported on your setup, i can not comment on that. nor have i owned a stack like the schiit you're looking at. but i can attest that my headphones sound great for gaming and music i can hear footsteps coming from different directions easily.
keep it local, and get Fluance.
https://www.amazon.ca/Bookshelf-Amplifier-Turntable-Bluetooth-Streaming/dp/B07CLHGV2S/
if you can possibly find room on your desk for 5" woofers :)
no need for an amp, since these are powered.
external USB sound cards are dirt cheap, you can plug more than one in, and chose the audio source output from your computer to play music over the speakers or your headphones. even cheap USB sound cards often sound far better than the built in ones on computers, since they're isolated from chassis ground.
https://www.amazon.ca/UGREEN-Universal-3-Position-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B01N905VOY/
or nicer (based on reviews)
https://www.amazon.ca/UGREEN-Adapter-External-Stereo-Headset/dp/B06XP5R449/
or get one designed for headphone use, with two outputs, and drive the Fluance speakers from the secondary output and your headphones from the primary.
https://www.amazon.ca/BENGOO-External-Converter-Microphone-Earphone/dp/B07Q8VCXN7/
Thank you, that was my first option, to get one of those usb sound cards. Something like this looks decent and is cheap.
I guess that usb is doing nothing with sound. IMO, you got three choices.
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY/
So this UGREEN soundcard won't reduce quality compared to my Asus z270e motherboard?
The jack to USB adapter i bought is supposed to work as an external sound card according to the amazon page (i don't know much about that kind of hardware) : https://www.amazon.fr/UGREEN-Adaptateur-Raspberry-Enceinte-Microphone/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1541440010&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=jack+usb
Should this work if it was the problem?
Here's a fairly cheap one. Not a recommendation, but this is what you're looking for: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=sr_1_4
I'm asking about the software because not every program can record from multiple sources at once. You'll need something like Audacity
Try something like this:
https://www.amazon.ca/UGREEN-Universal-3-Position-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=usb+3.5mm+headphone+microphone&amp;qid=1550187538&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;psc=1
You can plug it into the PS4 then use a 3.5mm male to male cable to connect from the dongle to your input on your PC. This will send both game and party chat to the PC.
Then to complicate the setup (LOL) download Voicemeeter Banana. You will be able to combine your PC sound sources to a virtual output that OBS can listen in on. As well VMB can output your Microphone to your Aux out which you can once again fire a 3.5mm cable from PC to the PS4 dongle and double your PC mic on both your PC and PS4!
Might be a ground loop issue which creates static noise in your headphones
https://www.amazon.co.uk/UGREEN-Headphone-Microphone-Raspberry-Ultrabook/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=sr_1_8?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500394486&amp;sr=1-8&amp;keywords=usb+sound+card
A USB sound card might help to isolate the headphones from interference which might fix the problem
TLDR: Need better audio to record from PC to high-end tape deck, and from high-end tape deck to PC. Would be nice to use as headphone amp, but not required. C-Media based external sound "card", Fulla 2, or Modi 2 - and why?
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Long version:
I was using my internal sound card to record to a high end tape deck and I could hear the electrical noise from the video card and CPU (audible buzz when CPU and GPU utilization is 50% or higher). So now I'm looking for an external DAC or sound card.
Seeing how a cheap USB "Sound Card" such as the $10 uGreen (https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY) is just an external DAC, makes me wonder would that serve it's purpose? Or is the C-Media HS-100B not all that good?
A huge step in the audio spectrum is the Fulla 2 vs the Modi 2. Lets say the C-Media is crap, so I'm looking between these two Shiit products. For my purpose, I can probably go for either, right? Both at $99, using the PC as the source (and sometimes the recording destination), either would work, right?
I was thinking Fulla 2 would fit my needs better because at the same price, it has a built-in amp for the times I want to use it as a portable external DAC/Amp, which I can't do with the Modi 2. The Modi 2 would just be a dedicated DAC with a line-level out, where the Fulla 2 can serve as a line-level out, line-level in, AND will serve as a decent headphone amp for those occasional listening sessions.
I plan on gaming on my Logitech G930, so the DAC will only be for audio recording (both line out and line in, to and from a tape deck).
The tape deck, if you're curious, is a JVC TD-V661 3-head dual capstan deck from 1993.
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EDIT: I just realized the Fulla 2 line-in is just to use it as a dedicated analog amp and NOT as a line-in for PC recording. Oh well. Still seems like a better value compared to the Modi 2. Again, would like to know if I'm missing anything (why go for the Modi 2 over the Fulla 2?)
Most laptops only have a headphone output jack, so you'll need an input jack, and you can buy external USB soundcard with an input on it.
Then you need to find out if that input jack can be set to line level or mic level. Sometimes you can switch between the two.
The mixer will be sending line level out. If you can set the laptop to line level in, then you are all good, all you need is a cable that has an XLR on one end, and a mini 3.5mm jack on the other end. You might have to use an XLR to 1/4" jack cable and then use an adapter to change the 1/4" jack down to a 3.5mm mini. (Or XLR to XLR cable with an adapter on the end to change it to 3.5mm mini)
If the laptop will only accept Mic level, then you need the same sort of setup, but you'll run it through a Direct Box which is a transformer that can switch line level signals to mic level signals.
Hopefully you can go down and take a look at everything before the day of the event. Take good notes and pictures of what is down there. Then make yourself a checklist so you don't forget anything on the day of the event.
It shows as controller audio on the PS4. I think it is 2 separate devices.
This is the soundcard: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01N905VOY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I just used a simple 4port USB 2.0 hub I already had.
The good thing is that other players with a DS4 can use their audioport of the DS4. They work simultaneous.
You can try picking up this super cheap USB sound card to plug in the speakers and or your headset:
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY/
This is not a high quality or permanent replacement, just for testing.
If after you test with the super cheap USB sound card, and you don't get static, then you might consider purchasing a replacement sound card, and here are some examples from cheap to expensive that will work in your motherboard:
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Blaster-Audigy-Performance-Headphone/dp/B00EO6X4XG/
https://www.amazon.com/Blaster-Performance-Headphone-Forming-Microphone/dp/B009ISU33E/
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-70SB174000000-BlasterX-Hi-Resolution-Gaming/dp/B073HT4GM4/
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If however, you get the cheap USB sound card, and you still have static in both your headphones and speakers, I would consider at that point the PSU.
Nope, I didn't almost used this jacks since most of my headsets were usb, but happening with two totally new different headsets... I'm suspicious about it
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www.amazon.es/UGREEN-Adaptador-Micrófono-Altavoces-Auriculares/dp/B01N905VOY?th=1
www.amazon.es/TeckNet-Microfono-Ordenador-Altavoces-Auriculares/dp/B012H1YDD4/ref=sr_1_3?__mk_es_ES=ÅMŎÕÑ&keywords=Jack+a+usb+adaptador&qid=1572979820&sr=8-3
Third adapter
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I'm between this three but don't know if any of those can make any sound quiality loss (Don't know why I can't just change the other two links)
I'm not actually sure which z390/B365 board has the best audio from all the brands. Alternatively You can just spend like $7 and get an external USB sound card like this one. Was far better than the sound card that was in my $130 motherboard. But the biggest difference is the microphone quality improvement. I actually have this one. If you feel the difference depends on the headset. I have a $90 pair of Sennheisers, which are more made for music. Most gaming headsets on the on the other hand have pretty bad audio in comparison and you might not be able to tell.
As for memory, you can still use 3200mhz, but I think it will just run at 2666mhz anyways if you get a b365 motherboard. If you care about the RGB then TEAM has some good ones too. They might be better performance wise too (maybe lower timings), but it's hard to know without knowing what memory timings yours would go to if you stuck them into a b365. That's another topic altogether. There is memory speed, and memory timings linked to it.
Get these:
https://www.amazon.com/Valley-Enterprises-FT-100-FT-817-FT-857/dp/B0041LNISK
https://www.amazon.com/Yaesu-Original-CT-39A-Packet-Interface/dp/B0042AGVRA
Add mono or stereo connectors to the CT39 cable ends, dress them up nice.
Then, get one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY
And, then rock and roll with your 2 USB cable connection to get up and running.
Are these compatible?
My work requires a USB headset connection so I would have to go with this adapter. If it does work, would it alter the sound quality at all?
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522361163&amp;sr=1-1-spons&amp;keywords=usb+audio+adapter&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/V-MODA-BoomPro-Microphone-Gaming-Communication/dp/B00BJ17WKK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522361135&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=boom+pro
https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M40x-Professional-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR54/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522361130&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=m40x
This should do the trick:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8UzRAb18XDXP8
> I honestly don't mind playing them on the LCD
Yeah, a lot of people here do seem to mind (though getting "raged and flamed to hell" isn't usually something that happens in this sub), but I'm right there with ya. I've actually got 8 different systems (both old and new) hooked up to a nice LCD computer monitor I was given for Christmas (specifically a Dell UltraSharp 2405FPW, along with the optional soundbar), and it does a wonderful job IMHO, despite being over a decade old (these things came out around 2005 or so, I think). I just wish my Sega Genesis still worked (video output died somehow, so I'm using one of those crappy FireCore things for now), and I need to get a composite cable for my SNES... :/
Anyways, this UltraSharp is a 16:10 monitor (1920x1200), so it's decent for both widescreen and standard systems; the 16:9 systems have about an inch of letterboxing on top and bottom while the 4:3 systems similarly only have about an inch of pillarboxing on the left and right. It also can pivot into a portrait view, which is interesting. Haven't used that yet, but it might be cool for certain arcade SHMUPs (my Wii is hacked, so I can run some of those in an emulator)...
It also has a ton of different inputs, though it's missing HDMI. Luckily, HDMI and DVI use the same digital video format, so I just use a straight HDMI-to-DVI cable for my PS4 (and a USB audio adapter for plugging in the soundbar, so I don't have to worry about splitting out and converting the HDMI's digital audio to analog). Unfortunately, though, this particular monitor does not have HDCP support, so the media apps (YouTube, CrunchyRoll, etc) and the BluRay playback won't work on the PS4. I may get one of these things to bypass HDCP eventually...
All that said, my setup isn't nearly as organized as yours (shown here using the monitor's "picture-beside-picture" mode, playing PSO in my Wii on the right while studying this chart in the PS4's internet browser on the left. Apologies for potato-quality camera, lol). Part of that is due to space constraints, though -- I live with my sister, and keep my game systems in my bedroom so she can watch TV in the living room while I'm gaming... :P
Without knowing whats causing it, its almost impossible to tell.
If its damaged somehow, then replacing or repairing is the only thing you can do.
Or perhaps get a simple USB -> 3.5mm audiocard.
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520280288&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=usb+to+3.5mm
Something like that.
If the problem occurs on every headphone or headset you plug in to the machine, its most likely a damaged 3.5mm jack. What the damage is, well only you can see that, since none of us can see your machine from here.
Of course, this assumes its not caused by some kind of software issue and is in fact a physical issue with the jack itself.
I don't have a real fix unfortunately but just wanted to say if it comes to it, decent enough USB sound cards like this one will sound just as good as your old onboard audio if you need it (It is under $10)
No idea how you'd get audio to a Google Cast endpoint - that protocol is still a black box as far as I know.
If all you want to do is distribute the audio from the vinyl player, then just capture it and replay it over Snapcast or Icecast or MPD or literally hundreds of other services that play an audio stream.
For capturing from the vinyl player unless you have a heavyweight system alongside, you could get a small embedded box (like an RPi) and a cheap USB soundcard or try to go digital with either an HDMI audio extractor or (much rarer) audio interface with TOSlink input like this DIGIFLEX External Sound Card USB 6 Channel 5.1 Audio one.
On the RPi side you'd pick the audio off the sound card with something like
cpiped(linked above) which will buffer the audio for you and then pipe that to snapserver or forked-daapd or icecast or whatever.(If you don't need synchronized audio then it's even simpler since an awful lot of networked TVs and amplifiers can be instructed to play an audio stream URL.)
No it wont, thats set up for a power cable.
Look at these, UGREEN USB Sound Card External Converter USB Audio Adapter with 3.5mm Aux Stereo for Headset, PC, Laptops, Desktops, PS4, Windows, Mac, and Linux White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XP5R449/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ijjdBbAJ6X2E5
Or, UGREEN USB Audio Adapter External Stereo Sound Card With 3.5mm Headphone And Microphone Jack For Windows, Mac, Linux, PC, Laptops, Desktops, PS4 (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MjjdBb1M8X5K2
You dont really need the second one but i believe those are normally cheaper
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1527695314&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb+3.5mm+adapter
No, there are a number of basic DACs like that, that will remove the electrical issues in PCs. If that's all someone is after there's no need to pay more.
I'm wondering if the link was meant to be this, though:
https://smile.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY/
Given your headphones maybe you'd want more, though. It may depend on whether your current amp is working for your headphones. The head-fi forums would be a place to read and maybe ask for something that is a match for yours.
Awesome. Thanks!
I suggest this Baby Boom Speaker. You’ll need a sound card because the jack on the pi is terrible. I use this external one and it works great.
The mix amp is cool because it can control chat and game volume separately but it's very overpriced. A simple little USB audio adapter should be fine for this purpose.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N905VOY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522973302&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=usb+audio+adapter&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41zp99SXYrL&amp;ref=plSrch
Then you can upgrade the dac/amp part later if you want better audio quality but keep this little adapter for the mic part of your headset.
Well this one is cheaper than most Ground Loop Isolators.
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01N905VOY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
mmm, I ordered this
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01N905VOY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
If it's Realtek see of they have an updated driver on their website. Laptop speakers are pretty bad. They also make sound adapters for laptops that might give you better quality. If you want to spend some money look into a nice DAC.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N905VOY/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520045676&amp;sr=8-6&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=laptop+sound+card&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41zp99SXYrL&amp;ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N905VOY
I'm not an audiophile or anything. It outputs to a mono amp for an arcade cabinet. The reg headphone jack had some hiss and so did converting hdmi to vga / headphone. This works great for me and was cheap.
Shamis has on possible solution. Output your PC Mic to the PS4 via 3.5mm to USB adaptor. PS recognize these. I have this one, works perfectly. Or you can use two mic, one to your PC, the other to the adaptor.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N905VOY/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Another option is the Astro MixAmp. You can output your mic (or all audio) via the stream port on the MixAmp to your computer. In OBS, setup mic/aux and point it to the astro line in. If your serious about streaming, this is probably the easiest/cheapest way of doing this.
I've played with mic splitters, but they tend to cause unwanted feedback/noise.
I'd try something cheap like this first. and it's free returns...with a prime account.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XP5R449/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_v4.uDbC6BZ20Q
You'd also need a 3.5mm male to male aux cable.
Edit: I'm not sure this would work but it's the route I would go before buying a head unit or taking apart my dash.
If it helps I use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XP5R449/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_T6FoDbHCDW0ER with no issues for my earbuds with a mic
I take it since you have the BLUE YETI you don't have any sort of XLR to usb Mix board or adapters at all. Unless you plan to buy a lot new hardware i would say look at a PURPLE PANDA LAVALIER MIC
and Some LONG Exention cords or Get a Long USB extention and a USB Audio adapter like this
I do not know if the RIFT has any USB ports on the HMD like the VIVE Does. The idea here is that you have long enough of a cord between the Lav and the USB adapter (if used) that you can just wrap it with the Rift's Cable back to your computer via Hook and loop cable ties. Only catch is now you must remember to REMOVE the LAV off your shirt, collar, or nipple clamps when you remove the Rift of your head.
The Lav has some really good audio to it. that was recorded with both items I listed above on my VIVE. It's not the best int he world But for 20 bucks jsut for the lav. It's rather good for what you pay for.
This is assuming you are using a wired connection.
The mic will not work using your motherboard’s built in audio ports
Im using my beats Solo3 as a headset but I connect them using this adapter , it works as any other usb heatset with mic.
Those headphone use 4 pole plug for phones. PC uses the older 3 pole socket, with mic and sound separated. So you need an adapter like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Damomon-Female-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B011IKHHTW/
Or use USB type:
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Converter-Adapter-Desktops/dp/B06XP5R449/
We get this question quite often so I have looked into it before. The only USB adapter I have managed to find with a TRRS plug is this one. I have no idea if it's good or even if it works properly, but it's the only one I have found. I have not found any audio cards with a TRRS plug.
My suggestion is to try a another well reviewed splitter.
So you are looking for something like this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XP5R449/
If they're the ones with the extended (TRRS) 3.5mm jack, if your laptop doesn't have the right plug for it, you can buy a usb adaptor from amazon for sub $20 (or sub $10 if you want to go super cheap)
Makes sense. It should be defaulting to the mic you have plugged in, but some computers are just weird with that, I'd suggest buying a splitter so that you have a different cable for the microphone and the audio. And if that doesn't work work then buy a USB adapter that translates mic + audio cords to usb
MillSO 3.5mm Jack Adapter CTIA - Y Splitter Audio Cable with Separate Microphone and Headphone Connector for PC, PS4 Gaming Headset- 8inch/20CM Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071NDLCGC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YvlTBbDN7F54Y
Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and play No drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PwlTBbCBPVBQN
Never used anything like this but you could try this as well. Aux to USB. Probably cheaper just to buy the two other adapters though.
UGREEN USB Sound Card External Converter USB Audio Adapter with 3.5mm Aux Stereo for Headset, PC, Laptops, Desktops, PS4, Windows, Mac, and Linux White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XP5R449/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vylTBbWFVFPH1
Some onboard cards don't handle TRRS but that's a little surprising these days. But then again, so are physically separate audio i/o ports on a laptop. A combo cable, 2x TRS to TRRS, would make it work but you still might get noise from the onboard card. I'd recommend a nice portable dac/amp or a $15 USB audio adapter that does TRRS.
Will something like this work for that purpose?
Are you using the boom Mic that came with? Additionally you can try one of the adapters linked below. It could be that your Auxiliary port on your computer is bad or potentially your front panel is not connected to the mobo correctly. IF you have a auxiliary port in the back of your machine I would test that too.
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Converter-Adapter-Desktops/dp/B06XP5R449/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=aux+to+usb&qid=1558657549&s=electronics&sr=1-5
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=aux+to+usb&qid=1558657549&s=electronics&sr=1-7
I don't think there's a way to make it louder through the controller. However I think something like this might help. Maybe try to find one with a volume adjust feature on it.
Quick edit: Do NOT buy the one I linked. I just looked at the description and it said the sound output for left and right channels are reversed when used with a PS4. Just use the link as an example :)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XP5R449/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_YMlwzb2QKN2DB Is what I got and it's great
UGREEN USB External Sound Card Audio Adapter with 3.5mm Combo Aux Stereo Converter for Headset, Mac, PS4, PC, Laptop, Desktops, Windows, and Linux White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XP5R449/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_78uKDbB3CMC3R
To me, it looks like your built-in DACs may be fried. Only cheap solution that I can see is getting one of these doo-dahs (key words are "usb to 3.5mm adaptor"), which is probably going to be 100x cheaper than any repairs needed to get it working. They'd probably suggest a motherboard replacement and that could cost a pretty penny, so try that and see how you get on. If it doesn't work, simply file a return with Amazon.
Thanks
Do you think This would be the same?
Got some new Sennheiser Momentum 2 AEBTs and I'm wondering if I can split the single 3.5mm wire into separate headphone and mic 3.5mm cables so I can use it as a headset when I'm on my PC.
I'm thinking of something like this
Anyone know if this is possible?
Cheers!
Ps also just spotted this , not sure if that would also work
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Converter-Adapter-Desktops/dp/B06XP5R449
Only decided on this one for the inline mic capability.
Laptop
- Razer Blade 15 2018 Advanced running Mojave (10.14) -
Everything Works except for obviously Nvidia graphics which have been disabled and runs quieter in comparison to Windows.
- Adata SX8200 1TB M.2 Drive (Great Value)
- Keys are setup to mimic Mac keyboard layout as well with all shortcuts through Karabiner.
See Guide - https://www.tonymacx86.com/threads/guide-razer-blade-15-2018-detailed-install-guide-high-sierra-10-13-6-17g2208-17g5019.264017/
PC
High Sierra Build
6600k
GTX1080ti
Samsung 256gb 860 Pro for MacOS Drive
Samsung 256gb 950 pro for Windows OS Drive + 2TB Hdd
MSI Pro Gaming AC motherboard
Ncase M1
Peripherals are anne pro 2, g502 and samsung 34 inch ultrawide monitor.
I would not recommend this monitor for and serious photo, video editing as the colour isn't great however it makes up for it with the 100hz refresh rate which is incredibly smooth.
Samsung monitor -
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-C34H890WJN-UltraWide-Professional-Monitor/dp/B071X9DW37
Only issue is audio which I have gotten around by simply using a usb to aux adapter with built in realtek drivers.
This is the one I use and saves a whole lot of time and frustration trying to get audio to work without futzing with kexts and compatibility. Plug. and play
https://www.amazon.com.au/External-Converter-Adapter-Headset-Desktops/dp/B06XP5R449/ref=pd_sbs_147_img_1/356-0463875-4269422?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B06XP5R449&pd_rd_r=01d8812b-1273-4478-81c9-91de94ccad75&pd_rd_w=WCFpB&pd_rd_wg=0qNHM&pf_rd_p=a7229bdc-4c52-476b-87a7-8cf10344d0a6&pf_rd_r=DRXG5N15YDC6F69ZX4H1&psc=1&refRID=DRXG5N15YDC6F69ZX4H1
I hacked my pc about 2 years ago and has never failed me since I worked out all the issues. - Windows was the first to screw me over as one day I had an automatic repair loop and had to wipe the drive. Got the razer blade this year as my old MBP just died after 7 years of service.
I use to do a lot of photo and video editing but now I mainly use it for music production. Just setup my razer blade to test out at a friends studio.
There is a USB to 3.5mm jack I use with headphones with my laptops and it always clears out the static. Odd though you are hearing it with the USB cable for the Nommos. Below is the ones I use.
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Converter-Adapter-Desktops/dp/B06XP5R449/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?crid=1JNTESN5210Q&amp;keywords=usb+to+3.5mm+jack+audio+adapter&amp;qid=1555181560&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=usb+to+3&amp;sr=8-6
Looks good, thanks! (A few reviews complain about comfort, others say they’re all day comfortable.)
Looks like it uses a 3.5mm TRRS connector? Is there a USB audio device that uses that connector, vs. separate headphone/microphone connectors?
Edit: Looks like there are at least two USB/TRRS adapters. (Would have thought it’d be more common.)
UGREEN USB Sound Card External Converter USB Audio Adapter with 3.5mm Aux Stereo for Headset, PC, Laptops, Desktops, PS4, Windows, Mac, and Linux White
NRG Tech TRRS CTIA / AHJ/ 4 Pole USB Audio Adapter- Designed for Apple Earpods or other compatible VOIP/ Skype headsets
Edit 2: I suppose I could use a splitter and just about any USB audio adapter...
Will this be good enough?
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Converter-Adapter-Desktops/dp/B06XP5R449/ref=zg_bs_3015427011_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0588R0YE2P6TRRJ0CRT1
Or maybe should I take this?
https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Xonar-Sound-Cards-XONAR_U3/dp/B004ZI5E1S
I saw this as a cheap USB-C one but it might be crap
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSC/dp/B071HJ98Q6#customerReviews
I could be wrong but I don't think any audio interfaces output to USB, sorry. Even USB focused interfaces output via headphone jack. You can buy a little converter but it'll slightly increase latency and may not work as intended as it typically needs a computer to function.
This one caught my eye first and seems pretty nice. I love the black with red highlights look. Would everything fit in it and would you consider it a good case? Thanks in advance.
> hat case do you have, so that we know how much clearance you have for your cooler?
Sorry, but here's my case https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Carbide-SPEC-02-Tower-Gaming/dp/B00I0MKMG2 and price doesn't matter
same price on amazon no mail in rebate
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I0MKMG2/ref=s9_acsd_bw_wf_a_NREmainw_mdl?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&amp;pf_rd_r=QFH2GGTAH8HPNKQXZP3F&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=fa5eb5e9-19a9-4d1c-983a-7ad187302ac6&amp;pf_rd_i=13459453011
Edit. Nope its not. im an idiot
Alright will add the power supply to the updated list. Just to clarify on the gcard, I cannot get the blower because it is incompatible with my build, I now understand that. Have already added in the monitor to my build & at the end of optimizing this pc part list, I should be able to afford getting the better gcard, being the xfx gtr. Would you recommend the gtr instead of the msi, performance-wise?
edit: think I found a better case regardless of price. This corsair is better than the one you suggested correct? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I0MKMG2/?tag=pcpapi-20&amp;th=1
I've turned to your Corsair SPEC route. If you haven't pulled the trigger, Amazon appears to have a SPEC-02 for cheaper than I could find the SPEC 01. It has two front USB 3.0s rather than one. Not sure what else is different.
Corsair Carbide Series SPEC-02 Mid Tower Gaming Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I0MKMG2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_kPIywbGST92XM
Is this the case you got? I was thinking about getting it and was wondering if it was any good.
I have [this](Corsair Carbide Series SPEC-02 Mid Tower Gaming Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I0MKMG2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PKIjyb3DP8GZ5) computer case and the GA-H110N (pdf manual) motherboard
The computer case has speaker & mic input next to two USB 3.0 inputs
USB works fine, but the cable for "hd audio" doesn't fit the "speaker" portion ion of the motherboard
The case has 2x4 pin connector for "hd audio"
The motherboard seems to only support a 1x4 "speaker"
Suggestions?
I have this Case: CORSAIR Carbide SPEC-02 Mid-Tower Gaming Case, Red LED Fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I0MKMG2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ishYCbKDDNNQT
I'm willing to go to like 60-70 but Amazon has some cases like This and This on sale right now which look really good.
If I wait I'm willing to pay more for sure.
Do cases usually last multiple builds for the average user? The orange graphite series case really appeals to me especially if it's something that lasts through a few builds.
Imagine me opening this link, immediately looking at the front panel, and slapping you.
lol, I'm back on my desktop now. Here ya go: https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-MasterCase-Mid-Tower-MCM-H500P-WGNN-S00/dp/B01MDS8L83/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526853048&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=CoolerMaster+H500P+white
Or you can go with https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Carbide-SPEC-02-Tower-Gaming/dp/B00I0MKMG2
If you can't spit directly into your intake fans, you're fucking up. Don't make air turn. Air hates turning.
I don't know what you're looking to pay, but I wanted something decent to work in for a low price that doesn't look like Darth Vader's nutsack, and I've been happy with the Corsair Carbide Spec-02.
I just moved an older x58 system to the Corsair spec-2 and I found that surprisingly small.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00I0MKMG2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1462911515&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;keywords=corsair+spec+02&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31MHuwIx9PL&amp;ref=plSrch
Damn amazon links
/u/spamsince /u/Cerelius_BT
So I have taken into consideration both of your suggestions, along with reconsidering my choice of case and storage, and used PC Part Picker to build a setup with the price I am happy with.
Part | Item | Price
---|---|----
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO | $32.00
Motherboard | ASUS ATX DDR3 1800 Motherboards H170-PLUS D3 | $117.91
CPU | Intel Boxed Core I5-6400 | $242.99
Graphics Card | XFX Radeon RX 480 | $349.99
RAM | Kingston HyperX Fury 16GB Kit (2x8GB) | $87.99
PSU | FirePower Technology Firepower ZT Series 550W 80Plus Bronze | $77.81
HDD | 2 x WD Blue 2TB Desktop Hard Disk Drive | $95.50 each
OS Drive | Corsair Force Series LE SSD, SATA 6Gbps 480GB | $142.49
Case | Corsair Carbide Series SPEC-02 Mid Tower | $74.99
Optical Drive | LG Internal UH12NS30 BD-ROM | $56.99
Just want to run it by you guys to see if the parts are compatible.
Thanks again for all your help.
I looked on Amazon, cause i don't know any greek shops. This is probably the best performance per Euro you can get.
http://www.amazon.de/gp/aw/d/B00K5J22GG/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr3_1?qid=1411255783&amp;sr=8-1-fkmr3&amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
http://www.amazon.de/gp/aw/d/B00D1COG4A?cache=f928d75cf9ea8df8078d0b36f484a80d&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;qid=1411256104&amp;sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1
http://www.amazon.de/gp/aw/d/B00I0MKMG2?cache=f928d75cf9ea8df8078d0b36f484a80d&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;qid=1411256153&amp;sr=8-2#ref=mp_s_a_1_2
I have the same Cpu on the 1155 platform and though you can't oc it, it's a beast.
If you need an overclocker.
http://www.amazon.de/gp/aw/d/B00KPRWB9G/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1411256679&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
These cases look the same and have slightly different model numbers. What is the difference between them?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00I0MKMG2/
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/QF8H99/corsair-case-cc9011087ww
I've been very happy with my Corsair Carbide SPEC-02
Any case suggestions for someone doing a micro ATX build as their first build? Doing a budget build so not looking to spend that much on the case. I like the various cubes I've seen but it sounds like some have issues with GPUs not fitting. I'll be using either a GTX 1060 3GB or GTX 970.
I was thinking about the Corsair SPEC-02: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00I0MKMG2/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493990105&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=corsair%2Bcarbide&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41S4vPmIlIL&amp;ref=plSrch&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1 (prefer to buy through Amazon)
Just a few things I notice:
So with the $175 you could upgrade to the i7-6700k CPU that is 4.0GHz or you could upgrade to the 1080 graphics card... or you could pocket it. I'm not a computer guy by any means, but the people on the iRacing forum helped me learn a ton when I was trying to figure all of this out. Hope it helps.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I0MKMG2?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
I have this one and I like it a lot. Cable management was a bitch though. It brings one Red LED fan on the front and one non LED fan on the back. Corsair Carbide Series SPEC-02 Mid Tower Gaming Case
I have the Spec 01. It comes with a 120mm fan with buit in red LEDs (you can replace the fan for cheap if you want). It has two slots for optical drives if you want. It has a large window on one side and works great for me.
You think i should instead use this case? https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Carbide-SPEC-01-Tower-Gaming/dp/B00I6BJATW
And you have the wrong gpu: https://www.amazon.co.uk/EVGA-GeForce-Superclocked-Express-Graphics/dp/B01IOWT538/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483409329&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=evga+NVIDIA+GeForce+GTX+1060
This one-https://www.amazon.in/Corsair-Carbide-CC-9011050-WW-Mid-Tower-Gaming/dp/B00I6BJATW Price is 3k in Amazon including 1 fan and you can mount 8 fans in total so you can buy some extra 120 mm fan with your remaining 1 k .
I was going with the 650W don't know why the 750W came up, in the mobo I would like easy overclocking, a decent dac, 4 ram slots and an m.2 slot, and a thunderbolt 3 would be cool. So basically one of these: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/products/motherboard/#s=30&amp;f=2&amp;c=110&amp;K=1,10&amp;E=1,3&amp;N=4,16&amp;L=4&amp;h=1,8&amp;a=1,4&amp;v=2,1&amp;u=1&amp;C=6,12,19
EDIT: Is there another way to show your awesomeness except for giving gold.
EDIT: How about this case (the Spec 03) : https://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-Carbide-SPEC-01-Gaming-CC-9011050-WW/dp/B00I6BJATW/ref=as_li_ss_tl?tag=digitren0f-21&amp;e=UTF8&amp;linkCode=sl1&amp;linkId=b6d6ac9818e5a7d3c9f9bb5015ae9060&amp;ascsubtag=computing:892738
Yeah, I would seriously consider getting a new case, even if it is a cheap $30-50 one. Get a 600b psu too.
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Carbide-100R-Tower-Case/dp/B00RORBQNW/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469650696&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=pc+case
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Carbide-SPEC-01-Tower-Gaming/dp/B00I6BJATW/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469650696&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=pc+case
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Bronze-100-B1-0600-KR-Power-Supply/dp/B00EON40CS/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469650619&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=600w+psu&amp;refinements=p_36%3A1253504011
Yes the motherboard will work with that graphics card (pretty much any graphics card thats pci-e).
I can't tell if the board will support 3000MHz but it should work with that ram either way, even if it doesn't support 3000MHz the ram will just run at 2666MHz.
As for cases within your budget I just looked at amazon and found a couple that look solid https://www.amazon.in/Corsair-Carbide-CC-9011050-WW-Mid-Tower-Gaming/dp/B00I6BJATW
https://www.amazon.in/Ant-Esports-ICE-200TG-Motherboard-Preinstalled/dp/B07TJCNK2G
You'll want additional fans for either as both only come with 1 fan
Also, you'll need a CPU cooler for that CPU as it doesn't come with one. And are you aware that motherboard might need a bios update before that CPU would work?
My desktop keeps turning on by myself. Turns out my case keeps hitting the power button once I turn it off. What's the best way to fix this? Currently using a Corsair Carbide Series SPEC-01 case with an Asus z870a motherboard.
What about buying a new case with much better ventilation?
like this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Carbide-SPEC-01-Tower-Gaming/dp/B00I6BJATW
It's very affordable and later you can buy an air cooler like the 212 EVO or an all in one liquid cooler.
A lot of building a computer is figuring out how components fit together, as well as their name.
I like to start building my PCs by selecting a processor to build around. For instance, Skylake processors are pretty new and more efficient than previous processors, so I opted for the Core i7-6700.
I then chose a compatible motherboard. The Core i7 is a socket 1151 processor. So I looked for a motherboard that met that criteria as well as my desired memory capacity (32 GB). The ASRock Z170M Pro4S fit that criterion: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157637
After that, I chose a compatible case. The Pro4S is a micro ATX motherboard, so it can fit in a micro ATX case or even mid ATX or full ATX. However, a mid will not fit in a micro and a full will not fit into a mid. I went with a mid tower: http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Carbide-SPEC-01-Tower-Gaming/dp/B00I6BJATW
Next, I chose a power supply. If you look up the wattage on the motherboard and processor, it doesn't add up to much, but if you start adding extra hardware like graphics cards, sound cards, network cards, etc. you are going to need to draw more power. 430W was enough for my build, so I purchased a Corsair CX430M power supply unit.
Last, I selected a storage drive. SSDs (solid state drives) are a lot faster than HDD (hard disk drives) because they have no moving parts, whereas an HDD uses a magnetic disk. That's what I went with - the downside is that they cost a lot more money for the same amount of space. I purchased a Samsung 850 EVO 250 GB SSD.
That's pretty much it for required parts. You can get a video card if you like as well, for better performance in gaming. The case and PSU come with the right cables and screws you need. The SSD comes with a SATA cable. So, on to assembly...
Your case comes with an I/O panel/shield. Install that from the inside of the case. It should sort of snap in when you have everything aligned right.
Take the motherboard out of its packaging and set it on a clean, solid surface. Take the processor out (being careful to not touch the pins too much and especially try not to damage them). Insert it into its socket in the proper orientation (see the included manual if you're not sure how - there are indicators on the motherboard that assist with this). Lock it in place with the lever. Mount the motherboard in your case and install the standoff screws. The CPU comes with a stock cooler (fan), get that ready. The stock cooler should come with a thin layer of thermal paste pre-applied to the bottom, but if it doesn't, you'll need to get your own - apply a small amount (like the size of a grain of rice) to the processor. Set the cooler down on top of it, aligning the twist screws in their holes. Lock them down by twisting them to the right. Plug the cooler into the motherboard. You should be able to find a connector that matches the plug near the processor, most will be 4-pin (I actually don't think I've seen one that wasn't).
Mount your SSD in the appropriate place in the case. Cases typically have a bay area specifically for storage drives. Screw it in place and attach the SATA cable to the only connector on it that fits. Plug the other end into the motherboard in one of the plugs labeled "SATA".
Hook up the front panel LED and switch cables, they're already in your case. They're very skinny and typically have labels on the side. You may need to look at your motherboard manual to see which goes where and the correct pin position/orientation.
Next, mount your PSU in the case. It will go either above or below the motherboard, depending on your case. Screw it in tight. From here on, you should be able to find the correct places to plug in the power to the motherboard. There's a motherboard power connector somewhere near the CPU, there's also a special power cable that goes to your drives.
Hook up all your power cables, monitor cables, etc. With any luck, the computer will turn on when you press the power button. If not, you'll have to do a bit of troubleshooting. That's the gist of it though, and hope this helps you. I wrote this from memory so I could be missing some stuff, if anyone wants to chime in.
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Carbide-SPEC-01-Tower-Gaming/dp/B00I6BJATW/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1466738255&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=Mid+tower+case
current case i got
I made a few minor changes thought i'd show you
http://pcpartpicker.com/list/QXq4M8
That case had 2-5 week shipping and his birthday is coming up pretty quick so I swapped it out for this. PC part picker thinks its 60 but it's really 47 bucks
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Carbide-SPEC-01-Tower-Gaming/dp/B00I6BJATW/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473366949&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=pc+case
I swapped for a barracuda 2 tb storage drive, people shit on them for not being reliable but I have 2 barracuda drives that have been going 3 and 5 years with no issues, used as storage for a plex server. And even if it drops dead he'll mostly just have steam games on it and an anime collection that I mostly have a backup of.
Grabbed a 600w power supply to be a little more upgradeable for the future.
and the fans I put in there are actually 16 bucks on amazon.
My card is actually an odd format. It's still PCI-E, but meant to fit on a mini-ATX board. Meh. It was the only 1070 I could find close to MSRP, and it still has the same clock speed and memory as the larger versions. Plus this one doesn't have that GPU drupe of longer cards.
I'm using a Corsair Carbide Spec-01. Its a pretty good case for the cost IMO.
Corsair Carbide Series SPEC-01 Mid Tower Gaming Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I6BJATW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_G8r0AbP2TVVN8
Corsair Spec 01 - $50
This is the case I use. Great airflow, my 1070 never goes above 60 playing OW on max with 130 FPS. None of the fancy stuff you asked for unfortunately. It’s not a very flashy case, it’s understated and has great utility. Cable management is sort of meh, but it has four HD trays.
Should fit most GPUs, I’ve got an MSI GTX 1070 Armor OC which is fairly large with 2 fans.
Overall great gaming case for the price.
The current one I use actually is a corsair lol.
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Carbide-SPEC-01-Tower-Gaming/dp/B00I6BJATW
Its a bit small for me something a little Bit bigger would be nice but not too huge. I want good cable management and air flow. I like the looks of my current case since my build is all red. The case can be black or white.
Corsair Carbide series cases are $50 on Amazon. Much better cases. Please consider starting with a good brand like Corsair that has good airflow in mind as well as logical cable routing capability for a clean build.
http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Carbide-200R-Compact-CC-9011023-WW/dp/B009GXZ8MM/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1416841525&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=pc+case
http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Carbide-SPEC-01-Gaming-CC-9011050-WW/dp/B00I6BJATW/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1416841164&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=pc+case
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CC-9011050-WW-Carbide-SPEC-01-Mid-Tower/dp/B00I6BJATW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459356428&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=corsair+spec+01
44 British pounds
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Fractal-Design-Core-1500-Computer/dp/B00KM4B13Y/ref=sr_1_10?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459356456&amp;sr=1-10&amp;keywords=fractal+design
39 British pounds
Im not ENTIRELY sure that your motherboard would fit, but theres plenty of boards out there that meet the requirements of these cases and can fit a i3
pretty much building a new pc except for HDD and PSU. What do u think about these parts?
PC STUFF
MOBO - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2WG23X/?tag=pcpapi-20
PSU - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZZJ1P0/?tag=pcpapi-20
PSU cooler - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005O65JXI/?tag=pcpapi-20
RAM - https://www.amazon.com/G-SKILL-Ripjaws-288-Pin-Desktop-F4-2400C15D-16GVR/dp/B013J7T5K6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487440491&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ripjaws+v+16gb+ddr4
Case- https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Carbide-SPEC-01-Tower-Gaming/dp/B00I6BJATW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487523276&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=corsair+carbide
GPU - ?
case fans - https://www.amazon.com/Cougar-Vortex-Cooling-CF-V12HPB-Black/dp/B008N323U6
Thank you for the advice; I was just trying to penny-pinch. With a friend's recommendation, I went with a Corsair Carbide SPEC-01 case instead.
usecase?
If you mean case, I'm also replacing that. This is the one i'm thinking of:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00I6BJATW/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=IO98YO4DZYOHH&amp;colid=2LSGIXVAYHI4B
can i use this case. its cheaper. Corsair Carbide Series CC-9011050-WW Mid-Tower Steel Gaming Case with Red LED (Black) https://www.amazon.in/dp/B00I6BJATW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aecOBbHT6RSXE
Processor: AMD RYZEN 7 SERIES OCTA CORE PROCESSOR 1600 Rs.18,199
MB: There is two to choose from This one is cheaper RS.8200 and MSI B350 TOMAHAWK Rs.13,500
RAM: Corsair-Vengeance 8GB DDR Rs.4,500 and Corsair Vengeance 16 GB DDR4 Rs9,300.
PSU: Corsair CP-9020098-UK VS Series VS650 Rs.4,678
GPU: GTX 1060 Rs.19200 and or less expensive GTX 1050 Ti RS.13,200
Monitor: Get any(Dell,LG,Samsung) 22in cost around Rs.9000. Example
PC Case:Get any which looks good. Around Rs.3500 Example
Storage:1TB HDD Rs.3600
Check your nearest shop before ordering online because you might get parts cheaper
To add flair to your post click on the post after you post the post (If you are on mobile and select flair) and you can see ""flair" at the right end of your post in desktop.
I see, this build is basically for maxing out most games at 1080p, so I wouldn't be able to see it's full potential, but that's not a problem. But my monitor's resolution is 1400x900, is that not Full HD?
I bought this PC for like a 150 bucks so I guess that is what I get for the price. A small question, when Amazon says free shipping, do they mean free shipping internationally or only in the "Glorious" USA? Also, The Corsair Spec-01 case is kinda expensive right now, do you recommend any other case for the same price? It is 77$ in Amazon but 55$ in Newegg.
SPEC-01 (Amazon) - http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Carbide-SPEC-01-Gaming-CC-9011050-WW/dp/B00I6BJATW/
SPEC-01 (Newegg) - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811139041
AMD Athlon (Free Shipping?) - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811139041
I'm using a corsair spec 01 it has really good cable managment and cooling. 47$ right now lol hurry!
http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Carbide-Series-SPEC-01-CC-9011050-WW/dp/B00I6BJATW
Not bad, but I would go with this case instead, because it does have better airflow (which you'll want with a SCC 970). It also has a USB 3.0 at the front. There are a lot of 25% coupons for Corsairs website, and you mabe be able to get the STRAFE keyboard for ~$25 less too. The 4960k is also $5 cheaper on amazon
[this] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00I6BJATW/ref=twister_B00LIR8MFO?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1)
These are some nice cases with windows for not to much:
http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Carbide-SPEC-01-Gaming-CC-9011050-WW/dp/B00I6BJATW/ref=sr_1_1?m=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&amp;s=warehouse-deals&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452297648&amp;sr=1-1
Options don't seem very good, i'll just get a new case then, probably this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I6BJATW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=18DS6XU50SXJ8&amp;coliid=I304E1ONV1QM5J&amp;psc=1
Seems good enough. Intel would be better, but this is a super cheap build so no big deal. I would definitely get an ssd. It will make it seem like a faster machine than it actually is. MOST important thing to me for sure. You could save a little on the case too I think. This is what I have. Very decent for the price.
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Carbide-SPEC-01-Tower-Gaming/dp/B00I6BJATW/ref=sr_1_22?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479884956&amp;sr=1-22&amp;keywords=Computer+case
I don't know what my cpu is (is there a way to tell? I don't know where the box is that it came in), my case is this
My budget for a gpu at the moment is preferably under £100 but I might stretch to around £130/40.
Edit: My CPU is the AMD FM(tm)-6300 Six-core processor 3.50 GHz
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00I6BJATW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I found another case on amazon that wasn't on pcpartpicker specifically, last item on there
link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I6BJATW/ref=s9_simh_gw_p147_d2_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=center-4&amp;pf_rd_r=19K7ADKYJ9RBC0KASPSG&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=1688200482&amp;pf_rd_i=507846
the amazon link to it is this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00I6BJATW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00I6BJATW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480686295&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=corsair+100R
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00RORBQNW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480686295&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=corsair+100R&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41c5a22pHjL&amp;ref=plSrch
If a motherboard has all the ports on it like this, how can I have the ports accessible from outside the case especially if it already has ports like on this. This is my first build, and I'm trying to figure out shit before I get anything.
That case seem good, but I also see this. Only one left for that price though!
http://www.amazon.in/gp/aw/d/B00I6BJATW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1427538142&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=mid+tower+case&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41S4vPmIlIL&amp;ref=plSrch
case: https://amzn.com/B00I6BJATW
Mobo: https://amzn.com/B014YN6732
Idk if you use DDR4 or DDR3 but these are in your price range and match nice. i actually have the case myself.
You can probably find some cheaper if you look around a little.
Yes
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=zg_bs_3015427011_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=Y18HN098K82D7TJ9J5CH
I have the antlion 4.0 and to get rid of the staitc I bought https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484271098&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=usb+sound+adapter&amp;psc=1. Its cheap but it got rid of the static
I think I've found a better solution. Use this [thing] (https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=zg_bs_3015427011_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=GVCXB4DYJKV4MNAMZ47N). and one of these. Connect that cable from your PS4/TV to the USB Line In(first link). Then connect headphones to PC and control volume with Windows Volume Mixer.
Ah, my bad, I thought it did.
Hmmm, maybe you could try something like this instead.
That is an option. I was going to do that but I saw reviews comparing direct line-in and conversion differences, where the conversion sounded a bit lower in volume. At the time of purchase, my issue was that the Vive Mic is a bit quiet. If you are going this route, I reccomend you get the Sabrent. I might test this out myself and formulate another review in the future. Thanks for your input!
Dear Pi-people,
I want to make wall mounted phones and hang them throughout the city. You can leave voicemails or talk 1-0-1 if someone is on the other line. It will be a closed network of about 10 units.
Your advice on mic/telephone: i think the shoulder mics are really cool for this project. But i have no clue how to connect it to the pi. Will an usb soundcard be ok? I don’t know if these 2 pin connectors on the shoulder mics fit the standard usb cards.
Furthermore I don’t know if the PTT (push to talk) will still function or how to make that interact with the pi; recognising when mic is on or off (maybe sound levels?).
Second option would be to attach a “retro” phone. Anyone have any experience/ suggestions? Regarding software as well (Is Asterisk a solution or Mumble + voicerecord for voicemail?)
https://www.amazon.com/BTECH-QHM22-Platinum-Rainproof-Shoulder/dp/B00Z4X3MM6/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518681063&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=shoulder+mic
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=zg_bs_3015427011_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=TEF3DD19MRMX3V5B2PSN
Thanks in advance!
I actually haven't gotten around to trying one to be honest.
I'm away for work at the moment, but I'll order one of these and try it when I get home on Friday. That should work right?
I'm using this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524739930&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=sabrent&amp;dpID=51QY728wxCL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
Makes no difference on my machine whether it's plugged in or not
Tried front panel and direct to motherboard USB connections and using front panel and direct to MB 3.5mm connections.
Hmmm ... it sounds (geddit?) like the socket on your mobo is twisted inside and will only connect to left or right but not both.
If both sets of headphones work properly in another device (phone etc) then it must be the mobo socket.
If so, you need to replace the sound card on your mobo. You can get a USB sound card to replace the one on your mobo for a few $$, or buy a PCI card for better sound but more $$.
if you read the entire thread, I tested the USB adapter with both my older Game Zero's (from i believe 2014) and it works fine, it's only the newer model with the removable cable that doesn't work. All other settings are identical. The microphone literally has to be in your mouth + shouting to hear anything.
I have updated the drivers, still the same situation. It has to do with the new model of the headset, I heard back from Sennheiser and apparently the new model is 50Ohmz impedance instead of the previous 150 Ohmz that I have in my headset. They swear it doesn't affect the microphone, and only the Cans but it seems like there's not enough juice being pulled through when going through usb for the signal to possibly make the conversion.
the adapter is this; https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
Again to be clear. older model GAME ZERO's work with this adapter.
New model does NOT.
Sure! The G5 is just in the same price range as the FiiO, and is also a DAC/AMP like the FiiO, but there are definitely some other options. Also, Something like this might work, although it's not a DAC, so it will still use your onboard sound system, but for that price it might be worth a shot.
This is the guy with the similar/same issue: http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows8_1-hardware/microphone-not-working-with-new-hardware/e93fe308-cba8-4c70-9447-f838280f8ae3?auth=1
This is the USB sound adapter (it works):
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
My ModMic had a lot of static background noise, which might be what you're having, this was able to completely fix my problem.
Those are some really shitty items. I thought there'd be a gem in there, but it's all junk.
The Raspberry Pi Zero is $5 (if you can find stock) and works as a great emulation system.
A USB sound device like this Sabrent one for $6 works great so solve a variety of audio issues like low mic volume or static/broken audio ports.
So many people in online games don't have mics. You can get one on eBay for $1. Please buy one if you play online games. www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=clip+on+microphone
Something like this?
You can get an usb audio dongle for about $6 on amazon. This way you will have fresh ports. And yes it is possible to replace the ports on the case if you want to get into soldiering and taking apart the components. Or.....you could get audo ports that connect directly to the motherboard.
Yeah it honeslty makes no sense to me but maybe I found the problem?
So after that issue I turned everything back to normal and I don’t seem to have the issue anymore. By back to normal I mean, I only use the headphones when I’m streaming (for sound separation) and to connect it i use a cheap USB soundcard this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0ootDb8T6M4A6
I noticed that when this problem starered I would hear a “pop” while everything disconnected for a second, so maybe it could be this thing shorting out and affecting all my other devices for a second? Think knight try to buy another one to see how it works.
I'm pretty sure iMacs do not have a 3.5mm input, just the output.
I think you could get a product like this and it will let you accomplish what you're trying to get.
Personally I like overdoing things and I was thinking doing something similar but just getting a full audio mixer to let me wrap my 3DS and PC into the same headphone jack. Honestly, after seeing the product I linked earlier, I kind of just want to get that, myself.
I also just did this 😂. Pi ZeroW running Volumio.
Someone linked a cheap USB dac from Amazon in this sub a few days ago and Volumio recognized it right away with no special tweaks. Just choose “USB Device” for playback.
$7 on Amazon. Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and play No drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
What are you using the microphone for? the internal stuff on that mic cannot be worth $20, if it comes with $20 worth of housing, cable and a shockmount..... and you’ll still need a boom stand or full mic stand to support if close enough to your source to use it. if you’re just using your voice for speaking, a livelier mic like this (a good one) will solve all your needs and NOT require an extra stand, you can wrap it up in your laptop bag or pocket :
Audio-Technica ATR-3350IS Omnidirectional Condenser Lavalier Mic with Smartphone Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HZA6EJO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_65LgAb3DWXM8T
also, for using headphones at the same time, a simple USB- splitter solution like this will allow you to listen and record (low-voltage mics) at the same time:
Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and play No drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GbMgAbZD9MKM0
This brings you in under $30 with a LOT of recording potential.
to go further, you’ll need a USB powered microphone (like a blue snowball or yeti, but you’ll also want a stand for those) or a full on USB audio interface (anywhere from $100-800) and cables, a stand, a standard microphone, and time to learn how it all works together.
I definitely will! You do the same. The way I did this one was I just ran the tracks playing into a small mixer I have, then a really simple USB interface i got off of amazon that looks like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511477524&amp;sr=8-9&amp;keywords=usb+audio+interface
this track is really simple so it didn't take much, but if you ran like 6 different channels into some simple interface like that it might muddy it.
I record most of my tracks into either logic or I use the recording feature on my op-1.
I'd really like to get more into abelton, becuase I think it would really help with workflow, but I have such a mental block on learning it. I'm used to the garageband/logic interface setup.
At this point, below is what I would suggest:
HiFiBerry or PhatDac are a great high quality audio solution, if your soldering skills are up to the task...
https://www.hifiberry.com
https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/phat-dac
If you just need “decent” audio to TV, a cheap under $8USA Sabrent USB may suffice...
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510057666&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=usb+audio+adapter&amp;dpID=51QY728wxCL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
There are also external USB Dacs, etc.
Hopefully this points you in the right direction.
Enjoy your Pi journey!
I dont know much about that problem, but I've heard literally every modmic owner and reviewer say that if you buy one, you should get a usb audio adaptor
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510458057&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=usb+audio+adapter
Thats the one I was reccomended and one I've seen many buy. For some reason, it cleared up my audio problems I was having with my modmic. Before the audio quality was questionable, but after getting an adapter it worked like a charm. Also as well as make sure it isn't muted lol
By the dongles are you talking about something like this or more like what creates the virtual surround on the Cloud II's? Or are they both kind of the same principle?
I found the right thing.
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463374868&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+sound+cards
Thanks for leading me in the right direction though, I found this through one of the questions on a bluetooth item on amazon, they mentioned soundcard replacement so I looked it up and found this.
You shouldn't have to, but maybe pick up one of these for $6:
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462795226&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Usb+audio
Is it USB or headphone jack wired?
edit: My idea is to try a USB adapter like this: http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463318434&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=headphone+jack+to+usb
Could just be that the headphone jack itself is having an issue.
USB headphone/mic adapter $5.
If one is for mic and one is for audio [get this] (http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462894146&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=Usb+to+Audio)
A DAC is the audio hardware the motherboard has to output audio. You can read more on wiki.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?keywords=usb+dac&amp;qid=1564739575&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-13#nav-search-keywords
This is a passable DAC which you can use to test the audio. A little expensive option may be a Fiio K1, but since your motherboard's internal audio is pretty good, you can skip it.
If a spare USB port is available, an adaptor like this should get around the dodgy audio port when necessary. I used one when the audio port on my Asus Windows laptop became sporadically unreliable.
If you need extra audio jacks there's always something like this
Could be a dodgy or insufficient mic input on your motherboard. Buy a cheap little external soundcard like this one and see if it fixes it.
The video is private.
This could either be coil whine while gaming (which is normal) it could also be a sound card issue.
What sort of sound card do you have? Something like this, which bypasses the sound card could possibly fix it as well. (Note this is just some cheap brand on amazon)
Here ya go bro: http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1409781139&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+sound+card
you would need a new logic board, the main part of a portable. I would get an external USB sound card for cheap and call it a day.
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=zg_bs_3015427011_1
One of the best things about the monitor outside of its speakers and refresh rate is that there is 2 HDMI ports as well. If you ever need help with hooking up an external capture card to the Alpha or something let me know. And if you want to use a PC headset that has the mic and audio jacks separate you can use This although fiber optic utilizing headsets (Astros are great my opinion), sound the best.
Could you recommend an external usb sound adapter? I just bought a cheap one off amazon for $6.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467094662&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=usb+sound+adapter&amp;psc=1
EDIT: Didn't notice your audio jack is busted, changing answer.
For what you're doing, a cheap USB soundcard off Amazon will probably be fine, the Dragonfly would be a bit overkill.
Something like this would tide you over until if/when you decide to go with higher quality music and sources:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465910524&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=USB+soundcard
Something like this may work for you
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
More like this.
off the top of my head around 120-150 but thats assuming you buy everything online with free shipping and assuming you have access to alot of tools.
Pi Zero https://www.adafruit.com/product/2885 $5.00
LCD https://www.amazon.com/BW-3-5-Inch-Monitor-Automobile/dp/B0045IIZKU/ $15.50
USB Sound Card https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ $6
USB HUB https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Converter-Android-Samsung-Transformer/dp/B00OZDUTMM $6
Volume Potentiometer https://www.amazon.com/16x2mm-Double-Taper-Duplex-Potentiometer/dp/B00O9Y6Z70 $6
Mono 2.5w amp https://www.adafruit.com/products/2130 $3
ABXY PCB http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/common-ground-dmg-button-pcb-a-b-x-y-version $11.75
Power Boost 1000C https://www.adafruit.com/products/2465 $20
Female micro usb https://www.adafruit.com/products/1829 $1
female usb socket https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Female-Degree-Socket-Connector/dp/B00FH85SGG Free or $6
Stereo Jack https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Plastic-Stereo-Socket-Connector/dp/B00GLQAF7A $6
Slide switch https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-SS12F32-G7-Position-Switch-Solder/dp/B007QAJWYW $6
Membrane set http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/silicone-buttons $2.75
Extra button set http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/custom-buttons $2
28mm Speaker https://www.amazon.com/Metal-Inside-Magnet-Player-Speaker/dp/B00O9YG9GM $6.50
two single button pcb http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/easy_buttons $4.30
2300mah Battery http://www.microcenter.com/product/458057/2,300_mAh_Li-Po_Battery_and_Charger $15.00
If you just want audio you could get something like this. There are better USB sound cards, or you could get a PCI-E sound card
if you're more of an audiophile.or an external DAC setup like /u/EnglishTimelord suggests.Hmm. So the motherboard audio out, which you're using for your speakers isn't, working well.
>I have a USB external Dac
I don't think they're the same but have you considered a USB stereo adapter? At roughly $10US it's cheaper than replacing your motherboard and case.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
Motherboard | MSI Z97 PC MATE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $77.98 @ Newegg
Case | Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $89.99 @ Newegg
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $182.97
| Mail-in rebates | -$15.00
| Total | $167.97
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-28 16:09 EDT-0400 |
To add on to this, I've heard that one of these usb sound cards help alot. It gives it more voltage and results in a clearer sound coming thru the mic.
In this review video he is using the mic with the sound card and it sounds pretty good for the price.
To my knowledge, the front panel audio connectors will ALWAYS serve as the primary output device, and there is no way to change that (or at least if there is, it must be changed in your motherboard's BIOS settings.) This behavior matches the issues you're running into.
One thing you might be able to do is pick up a USB sound card, and plug one of the audio devices into that. That should serve as a separate playback device, allowing you to use either the Playback Devices menu within Windows or a utility like NirCmd to switch between the two devices.
I appreciate the input. This is what I'm probably going to do, but with this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473607715&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=usb+sound+card
Accomplishes the same thing, right?
If you mean something like this then you can do the same with any free audio recording software and one of these things.
Just sync up the audio with the visual in a video editor of your choice, and your set!
you could get an external sound card like this and use your "listen to device" method
you could also get a mixer and hook both inputs (your PC audio out and your switch audio out) to the mixer and then your headphones to the output
I use one of these, which work great and which I got for £6.50:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00IRVQ0F8?ref_=Oct_CABSellerC_430548031_0
Hi there. Can someone give me a hand with this noob problem I have?
I was toying with the idea of making a few tutorials for Youtube.
Being on a very tight budget, I looked up an affordable mic that could still provide a decent audio and found the Behringer XM-8500.
I can get an XRL/XRL cable from a friend, so my plan was to simply buy an XRL to 1/8" adapter and connect the thing directly into my computer. However, I read somewhere that I can't just do that. It would result in terrible audio quality. Something about impedance and latency (this is Greek to me).
I googled a few things and also read that a cheap external USB card like this one solves the problem. Then found out that it does not.
Then, someone said that what I actually need is a transformer like this one. Another dude said that I should go with a USB audio interface.
I was considering getting a USB interface, but since it's gonna be a cheap one, I must assure that it doesn't miss the feature I need (I GUESS it's the conversion of analog to digital signal, but idk anything).
Would anyone be so kind to tell me what I need in order to have a decent audio in this scenario so that the listener doesn't run away out of cringe?
Sorry if I made this unnecessarily lengthy.
Maybe try getting an external sound card. They’re super cheap on amazon!
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
Plug your 2male to 1female connector into the sound card and plug your headphones into that.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LFW2BAI
There’s the link for the mic...
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=pd_bxgy_267_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00IRVQ0F8&amp;pd_rd_r=B88RT7NG5RH56CPD4P1D&amp;pd_rd_w=53nLF&amp;pd_rd_wg=mXTxc&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=B88RT7NG5RH56CPD4P1D
This is the sound card I plan to get.
So i just purchased the sennheiser hd 598 cs headphones and i think they're absolutely magnificent, but i'm hearing a static interference noise coming through constantly from either 3.5mm port that gets worse/unbearable when i enter an online game like league or overwatch. I did research on this and tried everything from moving around all the wires on my set up, moving the location of the modem, fiddling with all the USBs and other connections to my PC, and messing with some of the sound settings. I can tell a big portion of the interference is coming from my new g602 logitech wireless mouse and i noticed a slight reduction in noise after i moved my modem but it's still too much.
Im considering buying something cheap like https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518104019&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=external+sound+card for a small possible external soundcard that could bypass or eliminate the noise coming from my MOBO but I cant find much info on whether that'll actually work or not. Can anyone recommend me a small external soundcard like this that'll eliminate the noise or just an overall fix to my problem? I also use a speaker that plugs into my second 3.5mm jack and i notice the same static noise coming out of that too so i'm certain its a noise issue.
Thanks!
If you just want the sound output from the jack, you can just use a USB adapter that has the outs for Headphone and MIC.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
would something like this workhttps://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+sound+card&pd_rd_r=d38bf4a7-e4ad-46ac-925a-3bb66f550a14&pd_rd_w=lIah3&pd_rd_wg=txsen&pf_rd_p=7be70e42-b5c0-4077-873a-35a472a6fbd4&pf_rd_r=Z1E9BWCN55GPY8YP2AJK&qid=1569638681&sr=8-3
If it happens with more than one pair of headphones, it's probably a physical issue with the jack. A smaller independent repair shop might be able to solder a new jack on for you, but the easier (and probably cheaper) solution would be to just use a USB sound card like this.
Like the other comments say, I'm still in the "not liking my own voice phase" i like to think i have a good voice but I still never like what i record. But other than that, I highly recommend getting a decent mic. Aim for XLR, if you can, over USB microphones. They are a bit more expensive but totally worth it for quality. the NW-700 is a really good beginner Microphone. As of now its only $27 which is awesomely cheap for an XLR, although you will have to buy a phantom power, little box that powers the microphone since the computer itself cant generate it, but thats only an extra $17. And a small adapter to actually go into your PC. This is by no means professional but any XLR is better than a USB microphone, in my opinion.
Microphone: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XOXRTX6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Phantom Power: https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-1-Channel-Microphone-Condenser-Recording/dp/B014H8AWGC/ref=pd_bxgy_267_img_2/132-8551522-3088534?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B014H8AWGC&pd_rd_r=ee89c156-a0db-4f07-b5fd-08246cdd8db3&pd_rd_w=oJwwl&pd_rd_wg=2W4Tj&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=GZSZ5G9AGGFHYCWXQWJM&psc=1&refRID=GZSZ5G9AGGFHYCWXQWJM
&#x200B;
Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=pd_bxgy_267_img_3/132-8551522-3088534?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00IRVQ0F8&pd_rd_r=ee89c156-a0db-4f07-b5fd-08246cdd8db3&pd_rd_w=oJwwl&pd_rd_wg=2W4Tj&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=GZSZ5G9AGGFHYCWXQWJM&psc=1&refRID=GZSZ5G9AGGFHYCWXQWJM
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I myself am no professional but have been into this for a while and had this very microphone for like 2 years. I've since upgraded to an AT-2020
I can recommend you to buy a USB Audio adapter and plug it to the PS4 and a Headphone jack extender
https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3
Though, just buying an external sound card would be less expensive, once you account for cables and everything if you don't mind doing sound in software.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_3iXDDbNQ02PF7
Ah, ok I think you're having a ground loop issue. Analog mics using the 3.5mm jacks are susceptible to it. If anything I would say try a cheap usb to 3.5mm sound card like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Ph3izbNHE0NSE to see if it helps.
What model is it? Did it come with a headset?
Edit: You may want to consider an external sound card. e.g. https://smile.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=zg_bs_3015427011_1
I plugged this in, and the audio out worked. I had to edit something to get the microphone input to work. I now have two of the Behringer soundcards, so I gave the Sabrent away years ago.
It looks like Raspbian Jessie has some issues. Here are two How-To-Fix articles.
https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?p=871926
https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/downloads/pdf/usb-audio-cards-with-a-raspberry-pi.pdf
Prije par mjeseci kupio sam BM800 mikrofon, stalak(boom arm), i usb sound card. Kad sam sve to spojio skonto sam da mi treba i power supply za taj mikrofon. Mislio sam koristit stari stolni(15kn) mikrofon(inače shit) dok to ne sredim. Ali ovaj put sam ga ušteko u sound card i razlika je jako velika, nema šuma, sve se jasno čuje. Naravno dovoljno je dobro da možeš čak koristit i za youtube ali morao bi se malo igrat sa setings-ima.
Ljudi na Discordu me moraju smanjivat a sjedim pola metra od mikrofona
Preporučujem ovako nešto + bilo koji mikrofon iz kauflanda :)
all links to amazon.de
Superlux HD681 or HD668B
Zalman ZM-MIC1
External Sound card
You could get a usb audio card adapter, something like this.
Keep in mind though that sound quality varies greatly on adapters like this. If audio quality over usb is important to you, you might want to consider a purpose-built usb microphone.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
These things exist and are cheap as hell.
Without soldering skills you will likely be unable to effect a repair on your case ports
Another option is a cheap USB sound device with a proper mic connector. For example:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
This then shows up as a 2nd device and you can dedicate it to the radio.
From what I can see, it has a USB port but it's only USB 1.1, which is outdated at this point. You can always just try plugging it in and see if Windows recognizes it as an audio device. I didn't see any drivers for it on the link you posted, so if that doesn't work, I would just get one of these.
Sounds like interference if the mic is muted and sound still comes through. Using a USB interface might solve it, but there's no way to know for sure. There are several cheap USB soundcards for <$10 on amazon, but the sound quality may be questionable. For around $30 you can try the Creative Labs X-Fi Go, which I would trust a bit more.
The 9500's have pretty low impedance at 32 ohms and have high sensitivity at 101dB/mW, so an external amp is not really necessary.
Wondering if one of these would work: Amazon
I have an amp hooked up to my speakers. Just need to hook it up to the pi zero
this is... genius
spent the last few days with thinking about different solutions (like extendending the cable to 5m to match the vive cable and zip tie them together) and I have never thought of using the audio and the usb port o.O
thanks I guess I will use a10€ soundcard (maybe this one?) http://www.amazon.de/Sabrent-External-Adapter-erforderlich-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
and the audio jack on the vive
A sound card would be the best option; then you wouldnt have to deal with the possibility of reinstalling Windows and going through all that stuff.
Soundblaster Audigy
Does this mean your front panel audio works though? If your audio was out, then neither would work.
Also, something like this would work, looks simple enough:
USB Sound Card
I'd get a FiiO E10K, and just plug in the headphones/speakers into the 3.5mm output.
If you wanted to go super cheap you could get this http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1456941695&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+audio+interface
I'd ask @AlienwareTech just to see if you can even get parts anymore. If not, you can always get a USB sound card. I've used this one for almost as long as I've had my x51 due to a finicky headset. Works like a charm, and pretty small.
You think something like this would work?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pNkPyb0EW15X7
you need this:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452398668&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=sabrent+usb+sound+card&amp;linkCode=sl1&amp;tag=podcastage03-20&amp;linkId=d2b66ca051bb0662b6e8501a09d984c7
usb adapter will give the microphone more voltage, and in turn will make it louder.
I use this myself.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487289864&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=external+sound+card
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D4HTIOY
ps. you could also just get a USB soundcard like this one if you already have a mic
I would prefer if I could make them louder with my cell phone. I currently have a Nexus 6P but I'll be getting a different phone within the next few months.
They sound great with my home PC (motherboard).
They could be much better with my work PC, and the sound significantly improved once I started using this adapter.
I guess I'm looking for something to improve sound quality/volume for my cell phone and to make sure I'm not missing anything with my work setup.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
should work fine
in my experience, macs have realllly shitty power isolation in regards to audio. an interface is the only way to really solve the issue. you can pick up a super cheap usb audio device on amazon
I actually was thinking this would work also? https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8. That one you posted how does that connect, sorry for the dumb question, I obviously can't use either audio jack.
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EDIT: I just saw the picture with the usb thing. I'm assuming it comes with a cable right?
I’ve got a set of Game Ones and a pair of Sennheiser HD58x - I’ve used the Ones via the PS4 controller and while you won’t get the best out of them that way, there is still a decent level of volume.
Another option in the short term is to get one of these Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and play No drivers Needed. [Black] (AU-MMSA) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CBcZBb1QTCMCY and use the Game Ones via that - would tide you over until funds for a G6 (which I just got yesterday 😉) were available.
Thanks a lot for the reply. In your opinion, what would be a decent external soundcard; most I see are little $8 USB "soundcards"
External USB sound card. $8
But KSP isn't really dependent on sound anyways. Some spacey music, engine burns, (lots) of explosions, that's about it.
USB DACs exist, the ones designed for phones generally aren't on the cheap (https://www.amazon.com/Kunlun-E18-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00GCDJBMM).
Much cheaper ones exist, but you may have more compatibility issues (https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/)
i found using a external soundcard fixed this for me. i was having major issues with that til i picked one of these up: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T1_eqGtzbEWWMYAX
completely eliminated all static and feedback
It is likely your headphones. Check if connection is OK. If it is not USB, consider using https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I2TAQUA5LYV6L9&amp;colid=U5AVYLLPQS2R
Otherwise, check to see what people are discussing about your headphones. For instance, my Hyper X headphones were giving weird sounds. I turned off the mic (wasn't using it) and its great again.
Alright so after even further investigation, the static seems to only happen if I am outputting audio from the same PC I am inputting the audio to. If I remove the input from my stream PC for example and just put some headphones on and listen to my line in, there is no static and I can hear my gaming PC audio perfectly. As soon as I begin outputting to the mixer from the stream PC again, the static/buzzing starts again. Same happens when I do it with the Gaming PC. So I am wondering....would [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498258085&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+to+3.5mm+jack+audio+adapter) possibly fix that?
Yea that's why, I always suggest staying away from turtle beach/gaming headphones but if you enjoy them then there's no reason to not get them. I always suggest a headphone +modmic combo. I always suggest Ath M50x plus the modmic, and if you do end up getting them it's always good to get this Sabrent if you don't have a sound card, it's needed for the mod mic to reduce the interference from your mobo, and has a chance to make headphones sound even better. In the end it's up to you, but I have a feeling you will enjoy this combo. And if you ever do end up playing on console, you can pick up an Astro mix amp and listen to console and PC at the same time.
Sound? Not sure if your planning on using onboard audio or dedicated card, but a usb dac might be good choice if Asus hasn't updated the onboard drivers...
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
Tried other headphones and none of them will register on the laptop and it just continues to play through speakers.
Will something like this work so I can use earbuds to listen to audio - https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=zg_bs_3015427011_1/188-4935475-9506316
Absolutely not. If you can spare a couple of bucks and buy one of these USB audio cards, they would work just fine
Prinzipiell sollte onboard reichen, kann aber sein, dass du beim onboard Störgeräusche hörst. So ist es jedenfalls bei mir. Einen Verstärker brauchst du nicht.
Ich benutze das mit dem. Sound einwandfrei, keine Störgeräusche wahrnehmbar.
Über deine Kopfhörer kann ich nicht viel sagen. Sind offen, d.h. dein Umfeld wird sie mithören drüfen. Das Design find ich furchtbar, aber jeder wie er mag.
I got that as well. Might have to buy one of these.
Found a 7$ one https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=zg_bs_3015427011_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=M4WX1F5G8C0ADYTBX0H2
I'm guessing you're looking for something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540911382&amp;sr=8-20&amp;keywords=usb+dac
The cheapest method I can think of includes a male 1/4 inch to double female 1/4 inch coming from headphone port of keyboard and one end going to headphones then the other end one of these and then just one of these going to mic input on computer. if you need a really cheap sound card these work ok. all that would get you started for like 30 bucks
Did you know, you can use any set of headphones as a microphone? Plug your headphones into the mic jack on one of these bad boys [because if you use the controller jack it'll only work as headphones], then plug it into your USB port and boom you're talking. It doesn't sound awesome quality, but it works.
I said I’m new to this, lol... but seriously, thank you for letting me know this is the issue. I’m 100% just barely figuring this out.
Am I right that this should fix it? (Lightning to USB3, USB to audio inputs; + external power)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F7KJDIM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_I9rxCb3QCWQNH
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_H-rxCb1VQVS2A
I agree with /u/damo13579. If you search amazon for "usb dac", you'll find a number of options. For example, this costs just $6.50 and has a mic jack also. If you want something with a variety of outputs for receivers AND headphones, something like this is still very reasonably priced. Of course, you can spend $5000 on a usb dac if you want. If you are out of USB jacks, you'll probably want to get a USB hub or some kind of mac dock (like a thunderbolt dock) for your mac as well.
You would need a USB adapter, USB headphones, or add a sound card.
Try uninstalling and reinstalling the soundcard drivers and updating the drivers for the soundcard.If that doesn't work try using a usb soundcard like this https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499505409&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+sound+card.
To see if it resolves the issues if it does, its a issue with the internal soundcard.
We are using this cable. It works fine.
The one that was wired incorrectly is not part of our setup anymore. Instead we are using this.
I have a pair of Micca PB42xs that are connected to directly into my computer. There's a very quiet hiss from he onboard dac that I assume is coming from inside the computer.
If I buy a very cheap USB dac, maybe something like this, will the problem be fixed?
If not, what should I buy?
Nope. All you really need is just a power supply which costs you 20$ and if you are having any trouble with simply connecting the mic in to your computer and want that shit on a usb this shit is [$8]
(https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=pd_aw_fbt_267_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=AASVCZSRE8KW59EN7DHG) and isnt even necessary like the psu is because you totally can just plug in the mic to your comp and it will work. No you dont need a $70 audio mixer either, thats absurd.
Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and play No drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_H..QBbB9KMM6Y
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536772529&amp;sr=8-1-fkmr3&amp;keywords=saber+usb+audio+adapter
Sorry for late response.
MDR-V6 are a very easy to drive pair of headphones. Something like this won't allow them to work their very best, but they'll work pretty well.
This one is 7$.
Just get a USB to 3.5 hookup. Something like this will turn your USB hub on something like a K70 into what you seek.
Will this work while docked?
Do I need something like this:
www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Kx94ybA4JVNHV
And you should
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493332700&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb+audio
I have this and it works fine
edit or what /u/areyougame suggested should work too!
U could try one of these Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and play No drivers Needed. [Black] (AU-MMSA) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rk98ybXDBZF9H
Works with the camera connection kit if u hav that already. Then u just plug ur 3.5 mm jacks in. I use it with my po sub
I have no idea but if you get desperate you can buy a USB sound device fairly cheaply.
Something like this should work: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492396473&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+sound+device
(I haven't used that one myself though, so do some research first.)
Alright so there are a few things you can do:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=pd_rhf_dp_s_cp_12?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00IRVQ0F8&amp;pd_rd_r=ZCGN5DKNG9YS6KQGQDAV&amp;pd_rd_w=88dT2&amp;pd_rd_wg=K5vFf&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=ZCGN5DKNG9YS6KQGQDAV
You can buy a USB Sound card if you want to use in game chat. they are relatively cheap a 3$ here
You can buy a USB audio jack.
Like this one Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter
Unfortunately RMAs can be a little tricky depending on the manufacturer. Some manufacturers might ask you to ship the board back first, after which they will send you a new one, whereas others may just send you a new board straight up. Depending on where you bought the parts (e.g. Amazon), you could just order a new board, wait for it to arrive, then return the old one as defective.
Alternatively, you could buy a cheapo USB sound card like this if your friend's happens to work. Your motherboard will still be broken, but at least you'll have sound - might not be worth the RMA if a $7 part is enough to bandaid it, but that's up to you.
Something like this will suffice; https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Speaker-and-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B000067RC4/ref=pd_lpo_328_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=9C1JQFG1ARCGD4BMN7AD
Alternatively, this is what I use; https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480335910&amp;sr=1-2-catcorr&amp;keywords=sabrent+sound+device
Dead simple way, just spend under $10 for a dac like this.
Get something like this
Every Raspberry Pi I have with retropie does have static when using the 3.5mm jack on the pi even before arcade1up was a thing. The only solution that seems to work is to use an external sound card like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+sound+card&amp;qid=1570669104&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;sr=8-3
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=sound+usb+adapter&qid=1570837781&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sr=8-4
Do you think a USB adapter like the one shown above would be sufficient, or would it have to be a bluetooth adapter?
if you wanna go super cheap i bought this thing a while ago and sounds MUCH better than using the jacks on my motherboard.
I almost broke the thing by walking into it a couple times so be cautious my dude
If your budget's severely constrained (we've all been there!) then honestly, a $5-$10 USB sound device should do pretty well. Anything with decent reviews should be OK, unless you have some crazy exotic headphones which it sounds like you don't.
I haven't used thia specific one, but I've used similarly inexpensive ones to replace shitty laptop sound outputs and they were fine: https://smile.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505250607&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=usb+sound+card
Unlike speakers and headphones a DAC+amp is not a complicated thing, it's not terribly difficult to turn 1's and 0's into sound and the technology has been around for many decades. The only reason we get shitty ones is because a lot of phone/laptop manufacturers simply don't prioritize the extra pennies per unit and/or allocate a few engineer-hours to make their devices sound decent because, hey, there are features that people want more & the engineers are already working 60-hour weeks & deadlines are a motherfucker so sometimes things get skimped on.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
Hey guys, been trying to fix this issue for the past couple days and I'm at my wits end, any help is appreciated.
So I have a pair of DT 990 Pro's and a magni 3 to run them, I use a 3.5 mm jack to RCA to connect to a External Sound adapter ( https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8 ). When I check the the audio levels the green bars are moving to the sounds of music but I get nothing from my headphones. When I Plug the headphones into my Scarlet Solo and switch the default playback device I get sound into my headphones, so I know that my headphones aren't the issue. This was all working a month ago before I moved into my new place and I'm at my wits end trying to figure out why no sound is coming into my headphones.
If I wasn't clear enough please ask questions so that I may be able to resolve this issue, Thanks in advance.
Probably not the answer you're looking for, but I bought one of these. It works for me. No more latency when using headphones.
I have read about some people swapping out the M.2 drive in their laptop and installing the drivers in a specific order and that fixed the issue for them, but that seems way more of a hassle than I'd like to go through.
Most likely it's an effect of the jack breaking off. Try picking up something like this as a replacement for the built-in audio.
camera is here -> https://www.amazon.com/HV-N5086-Camera-Webcam-Laptops-Desktop/dp/B00NBL2KK8
sound card is here -> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
both are basically new. no boxing, but never used.
I used this - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMCW-White/dp/B00YFD2S26/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
However I'm in the uk so if you are based in the us then this is the same product on amazon.com - https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503575932&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb+stereo+adapter
Bump
People are complaining to me that my mic is getting cut out all the time, should I switch to the modmic? and I want to buy this adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=pd_cart_vw_1_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00IRVQ0F8&amp;pd_rd_r=M5S45YQXYW7W2P2QQTQ2&amp;pd_rd_w=wGyXu&amp;pd_rd_wg=nYRoy&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=M5S45YQXYW7W2P2QQTQ2
is it good? and just because It's not manufactured by antlion it doesn't mean that it can hurt the headphones right?
thanks in advance
Thank you! Going to double check and make sure that the mobo in her system is the same as the one listed on the site-I swear there is always a piece or two slightly different than advertised when I've bought prebuilts. The sound card I meant to link was: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA24G28N3004&amp;cm_re=external_sound_card-_-29-128-011-_-Product
I've seen some very small USB "sound cards" like this: http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450983192&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=external+sound+card but I am a bit hesitant to believe that something that small could replace even onboard sound, but I am admittedly pretty ignorant when it comes to anything sound related.
Yes, that is a definite possibility. Though, I don't know why both front and rear jacks would have the same issue. If you want something cheap that you can use to get audio working, you can try this. http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
I used this, works for all my PC gaming headsets http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450153048&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+audio+adapter
Would something like this do the job well enough on my budget? Or would this be worth it?
I have two of these that hold 15 drives each.
https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Rackmount-Computer-Pre-Installed-RSV-L4500/dp/B0091IZ1ZG
For the case, I use a Rosewill 4U server chassis. 15 bays, 6 fans, 7 x 16.8 x 25 inches. Not very well versed with the hardware side of things, but maybe my setup will help?
PCPartPicker Part List
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel - Core i3-4330 3.5 GHz Dual-Core Processor | Purchased For $120.00
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | Purchased For $36.99
Thermal Compound | StarTech - Metal Oxide 1.5 g Thermal Paste | Purchased For $3.99
Motherboard | Supermicro - X10SL7-F Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | Purchased For $237.00
Memory | Crucial - 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR3-1866 Memory | Purchased For $120.43
Storage | Western Digital - Red 3 TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive | Purchased For $0.00
Storage | Western Digital - Red 3 TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive | Purchased For $0.00
Storage | Western Digital - Red 3 TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive | Purchased For $80.95
Storage | Western Digital - Red 3 TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive | Purchased For $87.98
Storage | Western Digital - Red 3 TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive | Purchased For $88.75
Storage | Western Digital - Red 3 TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive | Purchased For $88.75
Storage | Western Digital - Red 3 TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive | Purchased For $88.75
Power Supply | Solid Gear - 750 W Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | Purchased For $49.99
Other | Rosewill Server Chassis/Server Case/Rackmount Case, 4U Metal Rack Mount Server Chassis with 15 bays | Purchased For $112.08
Other| Microcenter 3.0 USB Drive, 32gb| Purchased For $8.99
Other| FreeNAS| Purchased For $0.00
Other| Compressed Air| Purchased For $1.99
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1126.64
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-04-29 10:12 EDT-0400 |
One option is to move your existing hardware into on of these cases. It takes standard atx motherboards and gives 13 hot swap hard drive bays.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N9CXGSO
Or this one is cheaper and provides room for 15 hard drives but they aren’t hot swap.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0091IZ1ZG
Do you think this would work? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0091IZ1ZG
If so, how big of a power supply do you think I'd need?
Primary Components are...
Rosewill RSV-L4500 Case: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091IZ1ZG/
GPU Bracket Coversion Kit: https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=1731197.0
F12 Silent Arctic (~800RPM) 120mm Fans: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0119T0D4I/
6-Pack v009S Risers: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B077JYBDYT/
6pin Extension Cables: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B073M4643C/
Corsair 1200 Watt Platinum PSU: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U6GTONM/
GIGABYTE GA-H110-D3A Mainboard: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B073ZMZV6K
4 PNY GeForce GTX 1060 6GB GPUs: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01IR5MR32
I just built this for something to keep me out of trouble, didn't really expect to make any money, maybe free heat in the winter. So far I'm pleasantly surprised it's making ~$40 weekly (at rates as of today, lol) after deducting power costs. No sure how long it will last at that rate, but I'm having fun. Got one more 8pin (to dual 6pin) corsair type 3 cable arriving next week, then will be able to throw another card in there (PSU has six 8pin ports). Making about 100+ RVN daily right now, probably gonna look for newer coins once in awhile and just HODL them all and see what happens...that's my stragegy so far.
I was very surprised how well the 3 front fans do only being 800 to 1000 RPM, then again I don't have monster GPUs in this rig, just 6pin 1060s. Heat did NOT increase after closing the top, BUT I had to remove the front door because it cut down airflow too much and things heated up very quickly. Mining X16 seems to keep heat / power usage down I guess? Haven't mined much else yet, I suspect ethash might be a different story.
EDIT: The four 1060 GPUs are only pulling 330 watts at the wall...pretty sweet. I haven't mined in years, I was predicting a lot higher.
Not sure about the rack ears thing. I had to buy a universal rail system for mine.
This is the case, and it comes in several configurations to fit your needs. I chose the one with 15 bays because I will be building out a new gaming rig in a new rackmount case and using this build as my plex server within the next 6 months.
This is the rail system. It doesn't slide out, but it gets the job done for my needs. THere are other systems out there, and if memory servers, you CAN put a dell sliding rail system on this case with minor modifications.
Edit: I did replace the front 3 stock fans on that case with the orange fans in the pics.
It would be better, if your PSU has the pins, not to daisy-chain the entire string, to avoid having too large a voltage drop on the 12V supply during initial spin up. Peak current for 8 drives reaches about 200W, or about 16A @ 12V. See for example, these power graphs for the 12V supply for 15 drives: https://www.45drives.com/wiki/index.php?title=Start_up_Power_Draw
Now the spin-up time is relatively short, but if that power were used continuously, the wires should be about 14AWG. See for example, https://www.stayonline.com/product-resources/reference-circuit-ampacity.asp
The voltage drop over 3ft of 14AWG wire at 16A is about 1/4 V. See for example, https://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html?material=copper&wiresize=8.286&voltage=12&phase=dc&noofconductor=1&distance=3&distanceunit=feet&amperes=16&x=91&y=15
...and if, reasoning that the spin-up time is too short to burn out the power supply wires, you push the wire gauge down to 18AWG, the voltage drop rises to about 0.6V, which is 5% down from nominal.
https://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html?material=copper&wiresize=20.95&voltage=12&phase=dc&noofconductor=1&distance=3&distanceunit=feet&amperes=16&x=88&y=23
...if you used this 22AWG wire: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19804/wir-91/22AWG_Corsair_Style_5-Conductor_Flat_Ribbon_Cable_Wire_22AWG_Black.html?tl=g51c327s2090
...you'd get a whopping 1.5V voltage drop:
https://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html?material=copper&wiresize=52.96&voltage=12&phase=dc&noofconductor=1&distance=3&distanceunit=feet&amperes=16&x=43&y=21
Now, to be 100%, I don't know at what threshold your disk drive WILL fail to spin up, or at what point your wire WILL heat up too much, but it seems that if you don't pay attention, you COULD push this design into failure.
Personally, I've successfully built systems with 15 drives (NOT staggered spin up) using a single PSU cable that had 3 SATA power connectors and 3 5-1 SATA power expanders built by modifying these 4-1 SATA power cables: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ENKYJB4 -- all for this 15-drive server case: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091IZ1ZG -- and these systems have worked over several years.
Ah, running a 1/2U? I put my setup in a Rosewill RSV-L4500 (file server, so I needed the bays), and it's barely audible above ambient noise. 4U means it fits 120mm desktop CPU coolers. :)
Case is huuuuge though, if space is an issue haha.
My current setup is fifteen 4 TB drives in a Rosewill RSV-L4500 chassis.
I use unRAID for the OS so I dedicate two of the 4 TB drives to parity, and the rest to data (13*4TB = 52 TB of usable space), and have a 500 GB SSD velcroed to an open spot in the case for thumbnails and caching. It runs headless and mostly just handles Plex and backups for my other computers.
My rule of thumb is that if I have 3 or more external drives, it's time to consider moving everything in to a single chassis - either a dedicated multi drive NAS, DAS, Thunderbolt or USB enclosure, or a dedicated server like this one.
A cheap suggestion to lower the sound is by switching to Noctua fans. They are well known for being very quiet. I picked these fans up and they are considerably quieter than what I got with my case.
For some BIOS, you can setup the fan speed based on the the temperatures. I did that as well.
Fans:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CG2PGY6
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KF7MVI2
Case:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091IZ1ZG
here you go! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091IZ1ZG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Probably will go for a single rebuilt 980ti. Was also looking at a Corsair 200R case.
5.25s are for optical, 3.5 &2.5 hot swap and card reader. drawer was for storage.
Could do slim optical & card reader in one and drop the drawer.
I can do you one better and show you some better parts for the price.
Let's bump that processor up to a X4 760K and the GPU up to a R7 265.
http://www.amazon.com/AMD-Athlon-Processor-AD760KWOHLBOX-Richland/dp/B00D7BYMB2/?tag=logicaincrem-20
http://www.amazon.com/MSI-R7-265-2GD5-OC/dp/B00JJNQ8ZA/?tag=logicaincrem-20
You do not need a CPU cooling fan, the stock one suffices.
That motherboard is too expensive for the budget. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130744&amp;nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&amp;cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-na-_-na-_-na&amp;cm_sp=&amp;AID=10440897&amp;PID=5961731&amp;SID=0
Let's bump up the PSU wattage to be safe. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006BCKDGW/?tag=logicaincrem-20
You really only need 4 GB of RAM. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231717&amp;nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&amp;cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-na-_-na-_-na&amp;cm_sp=&amp;AID=10440897&amp;PID=5961731&amp;SID=0
Here is a slicker case. http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Carbide-200R-Compact-CC-9011023-WW/dp/B009GXZ8MM/?tag=logicaincrem-20
> Thx a lot !!!
Ok just to make sure I could keep the 1st Motherboard with this case :
Corsair Carbide Series 200R : https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Carbide-200R-Compact-CC-9011023-WW/dp/B009GXZ8MM/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465910816&amp;sr=1-3
Or I could keep the 1st case with your Motherboard : mATX
Am I right ?
Ya that's what I thought for the PSU haha, I will go with the 550W Thx a lot !!
Trying to decide between two cases: Corsair Carbide Spec-02
Permalink: http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00I0MKMG2
Corsair Carbide 200R
Permalink: http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B009GXZ8MM Seems like the Spec-02 is the winner here at the same price. I have an R9 390 to stuff in, any issues?
Case is mostly subjective so everything I say is also but I like the look of the corsair 200R more and it can be found at 50$ with 10$ MIR from NCIX (I wanted to link you to the same merchant though), and same goes for the NZXT Source 220
The only other changes I could offer would be to save a little bit and drop to a 600W PSU, but if you plan to Crossfire in the future having the 750W PSU makes sense.
You can save a bit on the RAM by dropping to 1600 MHz (which in performance translates to a fraction of a percent usually depending on the application)
Those are about all the corners there are to cut that I see besides dropping to a MicroATX to save another 10$ or so, if you'd feel comfortable with that I could look for a compatible MoBo. To get under 650 you will have to roll back the CPU and the GPU.
Just to check, this is the case yea?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B009GXZ8MM/?tag=pcp0f-21
Thanks for the help.
Ya, im using a samsung S24D590L which is 1080. Do you have any recommendations for a 1440p monitor?
After checking tom's hardware PSU tier list, I did a search for something available in China for around the same price. I found the Season G-650, tier 2 on the above list, for only about 15$ dollars more.
I also upgraded to the 6600k
I also do have a version of windows 8 on my old comp but its water damaged and won't start. I might still have the box back in the states, but I'm not certain on that.
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | [Intel Boxed Core I5-6600k 3.50 Ghz ] (https://www.amazon.cn/Intel-Boxed-Core-I5-6600K-3-50-GHz-6-M-Processor-Cache-6-for-LGA-1151/dp/B012M8M7TY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463916601&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Intel+Core+i5-6600K) |￥1,613.53 @ AmazonCN
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | ￥194.22 @ AmazonCN
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-Z170M-D3H Micro Motherboard | ￥649 @ NeweggCN
Memory | Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | ￥414.86@ AmazonCN
Storage | SAMSUNG 850 EVO 250G" Solid State Drive | ￥579 @ Tmall
Storage | Seagate 1TB Desktop HDD SATA | ￥329.24@ AmazonCN
Video Card | XFX R9-390X-8256 | ￥2831.96 @ Tmall
Case | Corsair Carbide Series 200R | ￥428.03 @ AmazonCN
Power Supply | Seasonic G-650W | ￥609.02@ AmazonCN
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM (64-bit) | ￥720 @ Microsoft Online
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | [Intel Boxed Core I5-6600k 3.50 Ghz ] (https://www.amazon.cn/Intel-Boxed-Core-I5-6600K-3-50-GHz-6-M-Processor-Cache-6-for-LGA-1151/dp/B012M8M7TY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463916601&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Intel+Core+i5-6600K) |￥1,613.53 @ AmazonCN
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | ￥194.22 @ AmazonCN
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-Z170M-D3H Micro Motherboard | ￥649 @ NeweggCN
Memory | Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | ￥414.86@ AmazonCN
Storage | SAMSUNG 850 EVO 250G" Solid State Drive | ￥579 @ Tmall
Storage | Seagate 1TB Desktop HDD SATA | ￥329.24@ AmazonCN
Video Card | XFX R9-390X-8256 | ￥2831.96 @ Tmall
Case | Corsair Carbide Series 200R | ￥428.03 @ AmazonCN
Power Supply | Seasonic G-650W | ￥609.02@ AmazonCN
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM (64-bit) | ￥720 @ Microsoft Online
| Total | ￥8368.86 = $ 1278.48
Thanks for the response
Would [this be the motherboard you mean? (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00K872DZ0/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3?pf_rd_p=479289247&amp;pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe&amp;pf_rd_t=201&amp;pf_rd_i=B00K872GHU&amp;pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&amp;pf_rd_r=0MXYBENNTZ9KNSY64835). And is this the case?
What are the main advantages of the upgrades?
Particularly unclear on what advantages different cases bring - last time I bought a case I was a teenager and bought entirely because it had blue lights...