Best computer internal components according to redditors
We found 69,663 Reddit comments discussing the best computer internal components. We ranked the 11,153 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 69,663 Reddit comments discussing the best computer internal components. We ranked the 11,153 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
R5. Pretty close to the i5 in gaming but smashes it in productivity.
Edit: Eh fuck it, full comparison.
i5 7600k - $210. Doesn't come with a stock cooler, can commonly reach overclocks of 4.7-4.8 GHz, 4 Cores / 4 Threads.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel - Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz Quad-Core Processor | $209.89 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | CRYORIG - H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler | $34.89 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | MSI - Z270-A PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $99.99 @ Amazon
Memory | Crucial - Ballistix Sport LT 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $67.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $412.76
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-09-25 00:59 EDT-0400 |
R5 1600 - $210. Comes with a pretty beefy stock cooler, can commonly reach overclocks of 3.8-3.9 GHz, 6 Cores / 12 Threads.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor | $209.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | MSI - B350 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard | $99.49 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | G.Skill - Aegis 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $74.99 @ Newegg
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $384.47
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-09-25 01:02 EDT-0400 |
Here is a brief comparison between them while OC'd to 3.9 and 4.5
Here is another comparison, this time at 4.0 and 5.0 respectively
Here is a third comparison. 3.8 and 4.7
Draw your own conclusions.
Productivity is a no brainer. 6 Cores and 12 Threads for $210, triple the threads of the 7600k. I'm not sure where to get specific benchmarks for these types of applications, do your own research on that. Anything that takes advantage of lots of cores will do better on the 1600, as far as I'm aware.
---
At the lower price point - 1400 @ $160 vs i5-7400 @ $185 / i3-7100 @ $160
...No comparison. Intel loses the clock speed advantage while AMD retains the core advantage. There is absolutely no point getting an Intel CPU that isn't the i5-7600k or i7-7700k
They have this on amazon for 150 as well, with prime.
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Stealth-Cooler/dp/B07B41WS48/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1539728664&sr=1-1&keywords=ryzen+2600
Raw storage:
Total 108TB(18 drives)
Actual storage:
Total 72TiB
Case:
Used the two bay 3.5" cage, and three bay 2.5" cage from the Deep Silence 3 case.
Fans:
Used two 120mm case fans from the Deep Silence 3 case between the two stacks of drives.
Motherboard: Supermicro X10SRA-F
CPU: Intel Xeon E5-1620 v3 3.5GHz
Heatsink: Noctua DH-D15
RAM:
Total 48gb
PSU: Corsair AX1500i
Controllers:
Total 20 ports
NIC: Mellanox Connectx-2 10g
OS Disks: 2 x Intel 330 60GB, mdadm RAID1
Storage Disks:
Seven shucked from Best Buy WD easystore externals and two from Amazon as internals.
I originally shucked the Seagates from externals. I have replaced the Seagates as they fail, and I had one fail during this upgrade. Yes, I have had five Seagate failures.
SATA/SAS cables:
OS: Fedora 25 with ZFS for Linux
Cost:
The cost was spread across years. This is more like two builds in one. My old build with the motherboard, memory, heatsink, CPU, and 4tb drives combined with my new 8tb build. With the 4tb drives I have replaced five of nine drives over time, which has driven up the real total cost.
The case is huge, but all the space is nice. You don't feel like you are cramming anything in. I used a Fractal Design R5 for my previous build, and prefer Fractal Design cases to Nanoxia cases. But the biggest Fractal Design case wouldn't quite suit my needs. Even this was a stretch for the Deep Silence 6 case. I wish the Deep Silence 6 had spots to mount 2.5" drives on the back side like the R5. It is a feature I miss.
I have a few issues. The trays and the screw holes on the WD 8tb drives don't match. The WD drives are missing the middle bottom screw holes. My temporary workaround is strong 3M double sticky foam tape with two screws. I may use a drill and drill holes in the sides of the trays. I had to tape down the 2.5" cage, but the drives are so light it is not a big deal.
After building this beast I had the window closed, the door shut, and no room fan for one day. The room was quite warm. I have since opened the window, turned on the fan, and left the door open.
My Kill-a-watt peaked at 450 watts during boot. It idles between 200-220 watts. So I could go back to my AX760 from my previous build with SATA power splitters.
I still have one tray free, but no extra drive or SATA port.
I was originally going to move the four bay 3.5" cage from the Deep Silence 3, but it was just too integrated into the case. I tried adapting it, and it didn't come out well. Even if it had, the bottom tray was going to sit below the lip of the side of the case. So that tray would have been less accessible.
I am currently copying 18tb from the old array to the new array as a burn-in test.
I got the original idea to build with this case from someone else's post. I probably would have just bought another Fractal Design R5, and run two systems otherwise. I have run two systems for storage before, connected them with 10g, and used iSCSI. When I did I used, https://romanrm.net/mhddfs , to merge the filesystems together. I am considering doing the same again.
With the right cages you could probably fit around 26 3.5" drives in this case.
Over time I have gone from 250gb to 500gb to 1tb to 1.5tb to 2tb to 4tb to 8tb drives. I didn't think I would be upgrading to 8tb anytime soon, until the Best Buy easystore deal. In the past I mostly purchased on Black Fridays. In more recent years externals from Costco.
TLDR: I built a new server combining an existing 24TiB ZFS with a new array of 36TiB ZFS for the win!
Atlas Graphics Card Brace Support. A Video Card Holder, GPU brace, for custom Deskto Pc Gaming. a GPU stand case mod. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DQK7DDW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kI9YzbH87M7TA
I've got this one. Works well and looks awesome!
The 2600 dropped down to 144.99
USB pros: much easier to install, plug and play
PCI pros; faster speeds, more reliable
USB LINK: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Adapter-Archer-T2UH/dp/B00UZRVY12
PCI LINK: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Express-Adapter-TL-WDN4800/dp/B007GMPZ0A
Hey all, I just wanted to report something.
I've been testing the assortment of cables I had around, and extensions.
Using this cable, this extension, and this PCIe Card I was able to get a 32 foot + 10 foot setup running fine. I tested it without the extension and could not see a difference in latency.
It does require active power.
Your results may vary, but I figured i'd share my test.
There's actually some good stuff in the mix:
Definitely get a cheap 3rd party cooler for that CPU my dude. An H7 would do just fine.
Edit: On second thought, Cryorig must be going out of business because the cooler I paid under around $30 is now well over $100. Another great option would be the budget king H212 Evo and step-ups include Noctua's offering or the Scythe Mugen, BeQuiet's, all are great budget coolers.
This RAM is actually 3600 CL18 (18-22-22-42 timings) and not the CL16 shown on Amazon. See the model number: CMK16GX4M2Z3600C18
PCPartPicker also agrees. These sticks aren't on the B-Die list which would 3600 CL16 almost certainly be. The only B-Die from Corsair that is 2x8GB and 3600 CL16 is their Corsair Dominator RGB and Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro. This is clearly not any of those kits.
These are Hynix AFR chips.
---
With such bad timings, buy some 3000 CL15 or 3200 CL16 RAM and you should be able to reach 3600 CL18 easily (though staying at 3000 CL15 or 3200 CL16 is probably better performance wise)
Here's a Team kit for $126 + shipping on Newegg, a G.Skill kit for $130 + shipping or some more Corsair RAM for $135 on Amazon that almost certainly can clock to 3600 CL18. Save yourself the extra $55 or time from having to return it to Amazon when you discover it's CL18.
If you want real B-Die, I think this G.SKILL Ripjaws V kit is the cheapest for $193 + $6 shipping from Newegg with 14-14-14-34 timings at 3000mhz. You can clock it to 3600 CL16 fairly easily. Pay the extra $10 for real B-Die or wait till a eBay coupon if you want cheap B-Die.
https://www.amazon.com/Graphics-Support-Holder-custom-Gaming/dp/B01DQK7DDW
GPU Brace. Best $20 I've ever spent.
Not sure about this being much of a deal.
Motherboard
CPU
RAM
Total is £490; the RAM price was over £200 on amazon so maybe the prices were just elevated a good while ago or they're moving old stock, either way it's been sub £100 all round the web for months now which is where I assume the bulk of the "30% off" comes from. Convenient amazon price history link here
I guess it comes pre-assembled and thus presumably ready to work without flashing the bios for a £30 premium.
3 year warranty is nice too I guess.
I didn't shop around at all though so you can probably find better deals than just double checking the component costs vs amazon.
Hope I didn't miss anything very obvious.
thats a pretty badass bday present!
i have a genuine question tho, and not necessarily aimed at OP. Why do i see so many builds using the ryzen APU with a graphics card as well? is there a benefit to it? i understand builds that start with it and add a gpu later, but if you're buying it all at once would it not be better to grab a 2600 instead? (or a 1600 if its the R3 apu)
questions aside. congrats! im sure he'll remember building it fondly for the rest of his life.
​
edit: fair points all around! so if its the 2200 it makes perfect sense for best performance at price point. however if its a 2400 then you might as well have gotten a 2600 especially with them being 149 at walmart and amazon right now = https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B41WS48/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yW0yCbK60C89B
Here's an intel chipset wifi card for the same price. bonus bluetooth as well.
http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Bluetooth-Expansion-Components-GC-WB867D-I/dp/B00HF8K0O6
Haha, looked it up: https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-heatpipe-NF-A15-140mm/dp/B00L7UZMAK
Only a little bit of overkill!
"I priced everything out online and this is what it's worth" suuurrreee....
I'd offer $750 for everything, tops.
CPU:https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Stealth-Cooler/dp/B07B41WS48/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=ryzen+5&qid=1574377106&sr=8-1
GPU: https://www.newegg.com/xfx-radeon-rx-570-rx-570p427d6/p/N82E16814150795?Item=N82E16814150795&Tpk=14-150-795&cm_sp=2019-_-BlackFriday-_-Eflyer-_-14-150-795
RAM: https://www.newegg.com/team-16gb-288-pin-ddr4-sdram/p/N82E16820331360?Item=20-331-360&Tpk=20-331-360&cm_sp=2019-_-BlackFriday-_-Eflyer-_-20-331-360
SSD: https://www.newegg.com/hp-ex900-500gb/p/N82E16820326251?Item=20-326-251&Tpk=20-326-251&cm_sp=2019-_-BlackFriday-_-Eflyer-_-20-326-251
MOBO: https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16813157868?Item=13-157-868&Tpk=13-157-868&cm_sp=2019-_-BlackFriday-_-Eflyer-_-13-157-868
PSU: https://www.newegg.com/corsair-cx-series-cx650-650w/p/N82E16817139200?Item=17-139-200&Tpk=17-139-200&cm_sp=2019-_-BlackFriday-_-Eflyer-_-17-139-200
CASE: https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-MasterBox-Customize-Transparent/dp/B071GYMHKL/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=matx+case&qid=1574377312&sr=8-8
This builds totals up to approximately $475 before taxes and rebates. This will handle a moderate amount of AutoCAD, coding, virtualization, and rendering. The system runs on a six-core processor with SMT. The build also comes with an appropriate mid-tier GPU. It meets the 4GB VRAM requirement for the AutoCAD application as well as DX11 and DX12 support. Also, a 500GB HP NVMe SSD was also included for quick boot, load, save, and transfer times while only costing $45. The motherboard is also a great B450 motherboard, with space for possible overclocking or boosting. 16GB of RAM clocked at 3000MHz is also included for a better AutoCAD experience. The CX650W is a reputable power supply from Corsair. It is not modular, but its quality is above average for this price point. Finally, to seal everything off, the Masterbox Lite 3.1 was chosen for the case. This case has decent aesthetics and efficient airflow for a sub-$50 mATX case. Do note that this takes advantage of the Newegg Black Friday sales, so prices may change. If you need a new build list close to the date of purchase, one can be provided.
Laptop Option: https://www.newegg.com/black-msi-gl-series-gl65-9sc-004-gaming-entertainment/p/N82E16834155299?Item=34-155-299&Tpk=34-155-299&cm_sp=2019-_-BlackFriday-_-Eflyer-_-34-155-299
This is $100 over budget per unit, however, it gives the systems more portability. The MSI Laptop will not have the same degree of performance as the tower systems, but will still meet or exceed requirements for AutoCAD and other cyber and design related tasks.
This HP Prebuilt is the best I can come up with near $500/unit.
https://www.amazon.com/HP-Pavilion-Desktop-5-580-1TB/dp/B07JJ1ZFKH/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=hp+pavilion+desktop+rx&qid=1574378943&s=electronics&sr=1-6
This is similar to the DIY build, just 8GB instead of 16GB of RAM. (You can easily find an extra 8GB stick for like $30.)
Hope everything goes well.
These are cheap and one of the best ones on the market
Figured I'd post this more to show what a joke Tom's Hardware has become.
They conveniently ignored the a Ryzen 1600 which does just as well as the 1600X when both are overclocked, but for $219 and it comes with a very competent cooler.
The 7600K doesn't come with a cooler for the price point Tom's has them listed for, with a cooler, the 7600K will cost you around $269. $269 is uncomfortably close to what we see 1700's go for on buildapcsales.
Gigabyte AC PCIe card
http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Bluetooth-Expansion-Components-GC-WB867D-I/dp/B00HF8K0O6
Best one for the money - essentially an Intel rebrand. Great speeds, drivers, magnetic antenna for you case, etc. I bought two, and the Intel equivalent for the low profile bracket on my HTPC.
Gotta get yourself a GPU brace, fam.
This one is actually really aesthetically pleasing
Here, have an upgrade guide. This is mostly oriented for gaming, but I tried to make it as general purpose as possible.
First off, if you're trying to survive gaming on an older system and are wanting to upgrade, remember to check out the PC Gaming Wiki as well as the Low Spec Gamer YouTube channel and /r/lowendgaming. There are lots of tips and tricks to get games running better, and if you discover your own, don't forget to share them!
I think that's about everything. Let me know if I missed anything and I'll include it.
edit: Updated some stuff and tried to include more details.
Managed to find a couple options.
Card
Card
Dongle
I don't have any personal recommendations for you, but these ones look pretty good.
I'm really sorry about that. Poor tracking can happen for a few reasons: exceeding bandwidth on your system, incompatible USB ports, of even a non-functional sensor, among other things. Since you seem to have tried the sensors by themselves, I would guess that you are either exceeding the bandwidth, or that your USB 2.0 ports are somehow incompatible. Your best bet is to purchase this add-on card (must be this exact one): https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM I'd also continue to speak with us on the support ticket in case there is some software component that can be resolved, such as updating USB drivers or disabling a conflicting application. Hope that helps.
Forget about the i5 for $20 more, at $160, you can go for the Ryzen 5 2600 for a mere $6 more.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B41WS48/
Unless you don't need a GPU at all or you do need a GPU but you just need GT 1030 level graphics, the Ryzen 5 2600 is the way to go in my opinion.
Just my opinion, I am no expert, but these seem like the best choices as they are popular, and consideration how much work it would take to design them.
Also check the most popular on Amazon, Newegg and PC part picker.
CPUs from one socket look almost the same right?
So a LGA 1151 and AM3+ CPUs.
For RAM, classic PCB with black chips, maybe another one with a very simple heatspreader in different colors, as it would take quite a lot of work to create realistic heatspreaders for little benefit IMO.
Any HDD, they all look similar.
For SSDs, Samsung are the most popular and very simple to do.
Three most popular CPU coolers prolly are CRYORIG H7, Hyper 212 EVO, and Corsair H100i, maybe with addition of a single fan AIO like Corsair H55.
GPUs are tougher:
Motherboards and cases: the hardest parts to pick, almost every one part is completely different from the other.
Just go by the most popular.
Anything I forgot?
I dont think its a USB3 issue, I think it an incompatible USB chipset issue. I had nothing but problems at first, USB3 wouldnt work at all, USB2 worked better but still major issues. I then installed the USB3 PCIe card recommended by valve and ALL issues were solved. I have no problems now at all.
edit: this is the card i got http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM
I wrote this for another thread on the same subject a while back. The main bottleneck/expense is moving from single processor to dual processor. If I had it to do over (and hadn't come across a 2009 model at a bargain price) I'd get the 2010 chassis. The 2009 model uses a very odd lidless processor design which is unique to that year and complicates upgrading. The 2010's also have faster RAM which means you won't have to buy new RAM to upgrade the processor.
Upgrades:-
Advice:-
For the 2 sensors on the wall above the computer I'm using 10ft USB 3.0 extension cables. For the 3rd camera I'm using a 16.4ft USB 2.0 extension cable, as well as a 6ft USB 3.0 extension cable because the 2.0 cable wasn't long enough. I have all 3 cameras plugged into the same USB controller on the motherboard. Since I'm using a 2.0 extension cable, the 3rd camera is running via USB 2.0.
I'm using a 10ft HDMI extension cable and a 10ft USB 3.0 cable for the headset. The extension cables are electrical taped together and secured to my desk using velcro straps. I have the headset USB plugged into a PCI-E USB card I bought because I was running out of USB ports.
It's worth noting that for the first couple of days, I was getting occasional errors where the it said the headset was disconnected and I would have to unplug the USB and plug it back in. Since moving the headset to the USB on the PCI-E card (off the same controller as the sensors) I have not had this issue or any other issues to speak of.
6ft 3.0 Extension
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CFL6ARO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
16.4ft 2.0 Extension
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KY9M51O/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
10ft 3.0 Extension
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
USB PCI-E Expansion Card
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
10ft HDMI Extension
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004C4SECG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Frequency-Expansion/dp/B00HF8K0O6/
I have an older model of this, but it works great. it really helps to have an antenna that extends to a higher position that's not directly plugged in to the bottom of the tower sitting on the ground.
Same exact price on Amazon, would definitely rather buy it there even if it has taxes.
More info here, including a working PCI-E card:
https://www.reddit.com/r/oculus/comments/3zrtgs/psa_your_usb_30_ports_may_not_be_compatible_with/
Basically it looks like Intel and Fresco controllers are good. That throws a lot of motherboards more than a couple years old out of contention.
Amazon links for your convenience:
Note: technically any of the powered inateck ones should work since they all use Fresco controllers, but note that the 2 port one only gives you the extra front panel ports if your case supports that. It's safest to get one of the versions with 4 or 5 ports on the back. I can confirm the 5 port+20pin version passes the test for me.
Cybereality, from the Oculus support forums, has recommended this card: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMJEW
I wouldn't call that a deal; I'd call that a scam. Notice that the seller is "Just Launched", is asking $20 less than the competition, and most importantly has no buyer feedback.
As far as bang for your buck, I think the Hyper 212+ is a better buy. It's about two-thirds of the price of the Hyper 212 Evo and you'll only see a minimal benefit with the Evo (which is from the better fan, if I recall correctly).
You really can't go wrong with either cooler but if you're already over budget or need to save a few dollars somewhere, I'd say the 212+ is a better buy - especially if you're only doing some conservative overclocking.
HAVE I GOT NEWS FOR YOU.
DEAL OF THE DAY.
TP-Link Archer T6E AC1300 PCIe Wireless WiFi Network Adapter Card PC Heatsink Technology https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016K0896K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZYRMBb6J8MCZF
Might want to reconsider your pricing on the Ryzen 5 1600
Yeah I'd recommend this over the USB suggestions. Get a good one. Or try the power link setup.
This is what I use.
While technically correct for the most part, this comment seems to be exaggerating things a bit. You only need three USB ports for Rift out of the box, a fourth port only if you buy a third optional sensor. You don't need a usb2.0 at all, you can run headset and two sensors on usb 3.0 fine and if you buy a forth sensor it will automatically downgrade it to a usb2.0 with the included extension cable it comes with.A $20 pci usb card can be purchased if there are any USB issues at all. Stating HDMI"1.3" as if it would be any different than any HDMI that would ship on a compatible graphics card is also a bit intimidating to those who would think '1.3' is something different. If your newer card happens to only have display-port (rare), or you are already using HDMI for your monitor and you don't have a second HDMI out, you can use an adapter to go displayport to hdmi to either the monitor or Rift.
For most people its only the $160+ graphics card that is the main upgrade needed.
​
​
Currently using this one, haven't had any issues yet. TP-Link N300 Wireless PCI-Express Adapter (TL-WN881ND) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0079XWMEI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_gpltybSZM86SE
fixed this on mine just by reducing the camera bandwith to the second or third lowest notch. the built in usb hub in the headset is trying to push data from 2 controllers, and the video of the camera to the computer, and since a large percentage of usb controllers on motherboards arent really providing the needed overall bandwidth, despite being usb 3, you get tracking issues. also, usb 2 provides better performance, you should switch to that if you are using usb 3. the chipsets with non optimal performance were already ID´d by oculus, they offered a link to amazon to a pci express usb3 controller which works most likely with the full camera bandwidth on the vive.
crappy chipsets:
Texas Instruments USB 3.0 xHCI
Etron USB 3.0 Extensible Host Controller
VIA USB 3.0 eXtensible Host Controller - 1.0 (Microsoft)
ASMedia USB 3.0 eXtensible Host Controller
ASMedia XHCI Controller
Renesas USB 3.0 eXtensible-Hostcontroller
proposed fix:
http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA
http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00PAFDW3M
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Express-Connector-Controller-Internal/dp/B00FPIMJEW
Hey! It looks like you've got a pretty solid build started here! I just want to point out a few things to make your life just a little bit easier.
So there ya go! I hope that you enjoy your new build, it's going to be amazing! If you PM me I'll add you on Steam and we can play some games together when your build is all set!
I woke up last Monday morning and had the urge to build a gaming PC out of nowhere. I literally reached over to my phone while laying in bed at 5 AM in the morning and started ordering parts off Amazon and a couple days later here's the finished product. I had 0 PC building experience before this but thankfully Reddit and Google had all the answers I needed.
Specs:
MOBO: ASUS Prime Z370-A II (in case I want to upgrade to a 9th gen)
GPU: EVGA 2070 Super XC Ultra Gaming
Ram: 16GB Corsair Vengeance C15 3000mhz
Storage: 1TB WD_Black NVMe // 1TB Seagate SSHD // 128GB Unknown Brand NVMe (running windows on it)
CPU: Intel i7-8700
CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken X62 (using the 2 NZXT 140mm fans that came with it as intakes)
PSU: Seasonic FOCUS Plus 850 Gold
Case: H500 (base model)
Rear Fan: NZXT AER RGB 2 120mm (exhaust)
Top Fan: NZXT AER RGB 2 120mm (exhaust)
Top/Bottom LED: NZXT Hue 2 300mm LED Strips
Monitor: Lenovo Legion Y27gq-20 27-inch WLED G-SYNC
Mouse: Logitech G903
Keyboard: Logitech G Pro
Headphones: Logitech G533
Cable Extensions: Asiahorse Customization Mod Sleeve Extension Power Supply Cable Kit
Ryzen 1600 is $150 too
here
I would like to second some of the other people here.
Despite knowing this is the Intel subreddit, since you have to replace your motherboard anyways, you might find it worthwhile instead looking at AMD's Ryzen platform. A 2600 ($15 cheaper), 2600X (same price as the 9400f) or 3600 ($50 more) may prove a more worthwhile buy.
It would help more to know exactly what your usecase is, but, going for Ryzen should be the correct choice in the price range of that 9400f in more circumstances than the 9400f would be. Also take into account that the Ryzen CPUs are all unlocked and may be overclocked whereas only K-SKU's on Intel may be.
I hope that this gave you some more insight!
I just got this on amazon to help with sag on my 1080. Mine was sagging less than yours but this was only $20 and an excuse to open up the computer and work on it a little bit.
Atlas Graphics Card Brace Support. A Video Card Holder, GPU brace, for custom Deskto Pc Gaming. a GPU stand case mod. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DQK7DDW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hZVtyb51YN81C
Using an Elgato Game Capture HD, and then recording it via OBS.
I recently made a long comment with some advice for people starting a channel. I'l just post it here:
Picking A Name: Alright. It's time to start your channel. You've kicked the idea around for long enough. This is the first, and arguably the most important step in your Youtube career. Try to think of something different that hasn't been done. Don't copy the style of someone else's channel. For example, say you play Pokemon, and your name is Kyle, don't put KyleDoesPokemon. It will seem like you copied the name of SkyDoesMinecraft. Another thing is to avoid tons of numbers and X's. Say two channels have the same video uploaded, you can't see the views, subscriber count, comments or ratings. You are basing your viewing choice based on only the name of the video (which is the same) and the channel's name. Are you going to watch the video by XxBigJ0hnxXCoDK1llerzXx or Conspicuous Cactus (I apologize, I couldn't think of a catchy name)? Some will choose the
first, but most will choose the latter. I'm not saying that you can't achieve success with a cough bad cough name, but it will be a little more difficult. Ultimately, the Channel Name is just an attention grabber, like thumbnails and titles, but we'll get the that later. If your content is good, your Channel Name will not matter, as much.
Video Recording: You're set with your channel now. You've set it up and got the name you want. Great. Now the fun starts. If you don't want to spend a lot of money, i'd recommend the Dazzle, as far as capture cards go. I used one on my old channel, and it worked flawlessly. The only downside is that it only records in standard definition (144p-480p), unless you use an S-Video cable. This isn't good quality. But it's good enough to test the waters to see if you can create good content. If you want something that will work every time, and records in 1080p, I can't recommend the Elgato Game Capture HD enough. It's only downside is that it's pricey ($155). But you are getting a product that is the best in it's class. Back in 2010, you could get away with not having HD quality video, because HD PVR's were expensive. But not today. If you ever hope to achieve any sort of success, you must have video quality that is at least 720p. It's just not an option anymore.
Audio Recording: If you have a Turtle Beach headset, or some other USB powered headset w/ a mic, you can use that TO START WITH. Turtle Beach's have a good enough mic that it will be decent enough until you decide to move up a tier. If you want a great starting mic, that isn't a headset, the Blue Snowball is tough to beat. It sounds great, looks decent (like that really matters), and is cheap (in terms of cost, not quality). Depending on what color you get, it will run around $40-$50, which really isn't to bad for a microphone. You may also want to invest in a Pop Filter. A Pop Filter does exactly what the name says, it filters pops. It will remove, to a certain extent, the popping sound when saying p's, the ssss sound with s's, and all sorts of other things. They are definitely a good investment. However, if you don't want to buy one, you can search how to make one with a sock.
Editing Software: If you get a Dazzle, it will come with some decent editing software. It's nothing special, but it works well enough to get the job done. Hell, I used it for almost 2 years. But, if you want something better, and more professional, you should look at Sony Vegas or Adobe Premier. Both are great, and offer things that the other doesn't have, so you'll need to think about what kinds of things you'll be doing with it. I recommend Sony Vegas. I have never had a problem with it, and the learning curve isn't too high.
Channel Art: This is important. Very, very important. When someone views your channel, this will either make them continue their quest to view one of your videos, or it will make them immediately look elsewhere. This part is somewhat tricky to give advice for. It just has to look good. Don't just copy and paste logos of game's that you'll be playing onto a picture and call it "Channel Art". Use Photoshop, and put some effort into it. If you can't make it yourself, there are several people around /r/letsplay that will make it for you, for a small fee (/u/fuyi is fairly popular). There are also some websites that are easy to use and will make some decent (i'm using this word a lot, aren't I?) Channel Art that will work for a few months, or until you get around to making some yourself.
Thumbnails: Another incredibly important part of your Youtube Channel. You could have the best content ever, but if your Thumbnails suck, you won't get anywhere. The key to Thumbnails is to keep it simple. Use a nice, easily readable font, use complementary colors, and don't try to put too much in the Thumbnail. Avoid the lower right corner, as the duration of the video will cut off some of the Thumbnail. You can use this site to make some thumbnails too. Like the Channel Art, that site good for starting out, but you will want to learn how to make your own, using a program like Photoshop. If you start making your own thumbnails, the resolution for them is 1280x720, just so you know the correct size.
Video Titles: Video Titles are something a lot of people seem to mess up. It's actually really easy to make a good title. Some just put something like Let's play Minecraft episode 23. While that does tell you what the video is, it doesn't grab your attention. Something like Let's Play Minecraft: Part 23 | The Sands are Evil is better because it gives an idea of what will be going on in the video, which would probably be a problem with sand in the example. You can also you some punctuation like -'s, |'s, or :'s to help organize your videos.
Descriptions: There are two basic ways that you can have an effective video description. The first is to make a somewhat exaggerated statement that is relevant to the video, THE SAND WILL SWALLOW YOU WHOLE! RUN! RUN FOR YOUR LIVES!. The second way is keep it simple, Attention Traveler's: Please stay away from the sand. Several corpses have been found within them with large amounts of sand in their lungs. This is just my opinion, since I usually try to keep my descriptions witty. The third option is to just describe the video, In today's episode, we travel to an harsh landscape filled with sand and the dreams of dead travelers. You can either make the description funny and witty or you can keep it simple. Either way, don't put to much in it. Descriptions need to be kept short. It's also not a bad idea to put link to other videos in the series in the description or links to Twitter or other social media outlets.
Tags: Tags are the backbone to any successful Youtube Channel. All tags should be relevant to the video. Don't put other channel's names in their. Not only is it unproffessional, but it's useless (to a certain extent). If you search for Roosterteeth Minecraft Episode 100, and you see someone else's video below Roosterteeth's, you're going to watch Roosterteeth's video. Youtube has started to crack down on people who don't properly use the tagging system. If you make a Minecraft video and put Justin Bieber naked as a tag, you run the risk of your channel being given a strike or having the video taken down. Just put tags that are relevant to your video. If you make the 23rd episode of your Minecraft series, put tags like Minecraft Part 23, Minecraft Episode 23, Let's Play Minecraft Part 23, ect.
Other Things to Know:
Concluding: Obviously, there is a bunch more to say, but there's a 10,000 character limit to these posts. To wrap it all up, you need to have a Channel that is well made, and regularly produces good content. If you're just starting out, good luck. You'll need it.
5 GHz isn't great at going through walls. If it's directly under you, you should be okay, but my phone switches to the 2.4 GHz network when I go into the bathroom in my apartment. I'd get dual-band just to be safe.
I'm not in Canada, but amazon.ca has this one. It's pretty highly-rated.
Don't get a USB one. PCI-Express cards are more reliable, have larger antennas that can be adjusted. USB devices can be subject to random disconnects, poor bandwidth negotiations with other USB device, poor heat dissipation, and shoddy drivers. You can certainly find a USB wifi dongle that works for you, but I wouldn't risk reliability on your network connection.
I have this tp link AC1300 card and its working great on my wife's desktop that recently got moved too far to run ethernet to.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016K0896K/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
edit: yes thats the same one you are looking at, it works fine
This looks nice and should help.
There are a few things that need to be considered when you are experiencing performance issues. The first thing I would do is make sure it isnt just CS:GO. Play another game and see if you experience any performance issues.
If you do not, I would recommend verifying integrity of game files, then restarting your PC and seeing if that does anything.
If you do experience performance issues outside of CS as well, there is a multitude of problems you could be experiencing. Since the 7700k and the 1080 both run hot, you need to make sure you are cooling them properly. If you are running the stock Intel cooler, I wouldn't be surprised if you were thermal throttling your CPU.
Here are 2 great cooling solutions in the case you need to replace the stock Intel cooler:
Just be sure to get a cooler that your motherboard supports (in your case, one that supports Z270)
Other things I can suggest:
If you have any other questions, I'd be happy to assist you.
$65 for a D15 ( like new = new cooler with damaged packing) is a great deal
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00L7UZMAK/ref=sr_1_3?condition=used&s=warehouse-deals&keywords=noctua&qid=1574681122&sr=8-3-catcorr&m=A2L77EE7U53NWQ
You might want to lower the price a bit. Right now, it's $209 on Amazon with free One-Day shipping for Prime members.
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Cooler-YD1600BBAEBOX/dp/B06XNRQHG4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499405939&sr=8-1&keywords=1600%5D
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DQK7DDW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-04G-P4-6253-KR/dp/B01MF7EQJZ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524742372&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=1050+ti&dpPl=1&dpID=51uQKREz3vL&ref=plSrch
You’re welcome. Not quite MSRP, but this is about as good as it’s gonna get.
The price is set by the retailer and then we get a percentage of the sale if you make the purchase. The price is the same on the retailer as an affiliate link.
For example:
Direct Amazon link for an R6 2600 $149.99: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B41WS48/
PCPP affiliate link for an R6 2600 $149.99: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B41WS48/?tag=pcpapi-20
I only have a EVGA 500w 80+ certified PSU. That is too weak for the Fury, right? I can sell this PSU to my business (I need to build a new computer for it anyway) and use that money toward a better PSU if I wanted but what would be a good (and relatively) cheap PSU to run the fury. I prefer Newegg or Amazon Prime.
EDIT: Fuck it, I pulled the trigger. Was sitting on the money to buy XFX/Nitro+ 480 but I've been rocking this 6950 for too long and I'm tired of waiting at this point. This seems like a killer deal for $275 and free shipping (I used the Paypal promo). Here's to new GPUs!
Rift S is a nice pickup and the natural progression looking to move up from PSVR. Your PC specs are great for VR, and it will be a massive improvement from PSVR in all areas.
You may want to consider a RiftS-dedicated pci-e usb3 card for your PC to ensure optimal bandwidth and power is delivered to the Rift S such as below; this will improve performance and reliability. Most motherboard chipsets are not up to the task in this regard, so it's a great $20 investment many overlook. The one linked is known to be one of the best performers for Rift S. Note if you do get this don't install the inateck drivers, just use the Microsoft ones that auto load after installation: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OVPxDbTW1ZJ2E
Rift CV1 > OG Vive in:
Angular resolution - ~20% higher
Optical clarity (Vive only clear when looking straight forward; Rift clear almost edge-to-edge)
Ergonomics (improved with $100 Deluxe Audio Strap; Vive still almost twice as front-heavy)
Audio (fixed by DAS)
Controllers
Software platform (Home, Dash, ASW 2.0 - all more feature rich & polished than SteamVR-equivalents)
Game support (Oculus natively, SteamVR supported, SteamVR games run like native Oculus with OpenComposite; Vive has SteamVR natively, can access Oculus games via ReVive)
Performance (Vive renders at 3024x1680 @ 90Hz; Rift at 2688x1600@90 - 18% heavier GPU load per frame on a Vive)
A Vive is not an upgrade from a CV1. It's the complete opposite. It has a bit larger FOV (110x113 degrees; Rift 94x93) & an easier room scale setup (2 base stations need to be securely mounted to sturdy surface capable of absorbing vibrations, require 2 power outlets; for roomscale Rift needs 3 sensors @ 2x USB 3.0, 1x USB 2.0 + headset's USB 3.0; USB clusterfuck solvable by $23 PCIe USB expansion card (UK, Canada, Germany, France) - it loses in just about everything else.
That $200 Vive + $100 DAS is five times more expensive than the $60 Rift, 2,5x more expensive if you add a $60 sensor (which you can get here). If you already have the CV1, switching would be lunacy.
EDIT2: Só como referencia: iMac i7 comprado pelo governo, segue o baile comparando com o PC montado e este meu comentario US$1.200,00 de diferença.
O preço do iMac é exagerado até la fora: iMac top de linha i5
Quem entende de computadores sabe que você monta um PC MELHOR por um preço bem menor: Top de linha no MINIMO 5x mais forte, e o mesmo preço. Na verdade, um exagero, porque montei com as melhores peças no mercado atualmente. Poderia até ter poupado mais e aproveitado o quad-channel do ram na placa mãe, que seria melhor e mais barato, só quis ser overkill.
Os produtos Apple são overpriced em QUALQUER mercado, só ver a linha de ultrabooks deles por 2k dolares e os concorrentes pelo mesmo valor (Razer Blade).
EDIT: link talvez tenha problemas, então eis os itens:
Somando US$2.100,30
Those first three games are likely CPU limited while Rainbow Six is probably GPU limited. My immediate thought is overheating. Use a temperature monitoring software to check the temperature on your CPU. If it's high, consider cleaning out your CPU fan or replacing the thermal paste on your fan.
If you don't have one, I'd suggest getting an after-market CPU cooler. The Cooler Master 212 is what I use and I've always been extremely satisfied with the results. With the 4590 you won't have much room to overclock, but it will guarantee you aren't running into any thermal problems.
Both the Rift and Vive have their pros and cons, I have both and here is my cut and paste summary of just some of the comparative factors people may consider, as the topic has already been done to death:
The standard 2 forward facing camera Touch tracking has some FOV and distance related Touch occlusion, so a 3rd camera really is recommended for genuine roomscale.
The official Oculus experimental guide for 2 camera 360 degree tracking is here: https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/t39.2365-6/15397552_232732683816172_4121045365602385920_n.pdf
The recommended Oculus play area for diagonally opposed 360 tracking use is only 1.5M x 1.5M, with the cameras 2M apart.
To put that into some comparative context HTC recommends 2M x 1.5M as the minimum for the Vive 2 base station room-scale setup, with 3.55M x 3.55M being the recommended. People such as myself have tested Lighthouse out to nearly 10M, though that is pushing the envelope given how Lighthouse operates, see here for details: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=75ZytcYANTA
The standard Rift HMD cable length is also a limiting factor for large roomscale use. By comparison my Vive tracked volume is 8Mx4M and the included HMD cable lets you take advantage of that space with a computer located halfway down the long side.
Some are reporting that hardware/cable issues can affect Touch tracking: https://www.reddit.com/r/oculus/comments/5hbxxg/anyone_having_controller_warpingtracking_loss/db06gvm/
It took me a lot of fiddling to work out which USB ports gave the best results with my Rift, and still be able to use all the peripherals that go with my 3DOf compact motion simulator. I have yet to resolve all my Rift USB issues, with some visual jumps and persistent disconnects after a random period of time. A new Inateck card, as recommended by Oculus, is on its way (note some are still reporting issues, even with the recommended card): https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM
Here is a list of additional hardware and cables that may been needed for full Oculus roomscale:
For Sensors:
1x Additional Sensor: https://www3.oculus.com/en-us/rift/
2x Monoprice 15-Feet USB 2.0 Extension: http://a.co/1uRWG3A
2x Security Wall Mount- Adjustable Indoor/Outdoor Mount: http://a.co/5ZQxIal
Inateck Superspeed 7 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card: http://a.co/gFqRg0x
For HMD:
Cable Matters High Speed HDMI 10-Feet Extension Cable: http://a.co/9mBQCrU
Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 10-Feet Extension Cable: http://a.co/6Q1kIKd
Touch does a pretty good job at simulating hands in VR. The Vive wands are great as things like guns and swords, both have their place.
I do a lot of public demos and to be honest the rift is far more problematic with cable management, USB related issues and setup time/issues, in comparison I can set up the Vive at schools and NGO offices in 15 minutes or less, including booting the computer and running the calibration setup.
In terms of other factors the world scale of the Rift is slightly larger in things like Longbow, which actually makes hitting things easier.
The Rift has less screen door effect but the god rays are significantly worse.
The Vive sweet spot is not as large or sharp.
The stereo overlap in the Rift is more noticeable.
The Rift has quality built in headphones and microphone, while the Vive has a built in camera but a poorer microphone.
The Vive has cutouts in the foam and accommodates glasses better.
Cost comparisons need to take in applicable shipping and taxes, the possible need for additional tracking cameras, compatible usb hardware, usb and hdmi cable extensions.
Oculus has ATS and ASW, SteamVR has ATW-reprojection but also allows Oculus ATS/ASW via the Oculus SDK: https://steamcommunity.com/app/250820/discussions/0/305510202679681031/
Other extraneous factors to take into account include business practices, your room space and game play preferences, the shape of your head or any eyesight issues.
I have had the odd crash on Steam, but it is pretty rare, I have had far more significant issues with things like processing a refund via Oculus Help, which then bricked Medium and that took a week to sort out. So I think it fair to say both store fronts have their features, limitations and problems.
Personally I have found there is less difference between the HMDs than there is between individual users, based on having done thousands of public demos.
Well, if you have a free PCI-E port on your motherboard an Inateck 3.0 USB card will do the trick.
Here is the one I use: https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM
Oculus really needs to give some better information here. I cannot find the card they recommend (Amazon) anywhere here in Norway. I don't want to end up in a similar situation to OP where I buy a card and then that one is unsupported as well.
edit: Ordering from Amazon would cost me something like 650 NOK ($73). I could almost buy a new motherboard for that.
> yet you are comparing 1600 with 7600k
I don't understand the confusion here. You stated i5s are much better, I provided a comparison stating otherwise.
>why buy expensive ryzen platform
Ryzen 5 1600 is $219, i5 7600K is $229. Not sure if you're intentionally trolling at this point or just really out of the loop.
>what is the source of your benchmarks?
Ryzen 5 and i5 7600K benchmarks aren't exactly a mystery. Here's one from Paul's Hardware giving similar performance to the ones I linked.
So is this CPU better than my current one and good enough for 1080ti?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B06XNRQHG4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501927465&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Ryzen+5+1600&dpPl=1&dpID=41-YYZJhCwL&ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/offer-listing/B06XNRQHG4/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new
Amazon has had it for 260 for awhile now.
For the record, lowest has been 245 during the eBay coupon deal
To back up the claim..this is Amazon's listing for about $135 shipped https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B41WS48/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OoDnDbGM4C1ZS
No it is not, 55% sale is bullshit, in fact - regular price on amazon de is cheaper:
https://www.amazon.de/Corsair-Vengeance-3000MHz-Performance-Arbeitsspeicher/dp/B0134EW7G8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541974533&sr=8-1&keywords=corsair+vengeance+lpx+16gb
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DQK7DDW/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474560315&sr=sr-1&keywords=GPU+brace
$20.00
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-heatpipe-NF-A15-140mm/dp/B00L7UZMAK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1543468038&sr=8-3&keywords=noctua
One of the best air coolers out there! Didn't wanna deal with water cooling issues.
It's actually one of the ugliest coolers stock LOL, but you can pimp it out with their Chromax line:
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NA-HC3-chromax-Black-swap-heatsink-NH-D15S/dp/B076569Y8X/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1543468125&sr=8-3&keywords=chromax
​
​
I think SSDs are cheap enough now that for a 1tb you'd be better off getting something like this https://www.amazon.com/Silicon-Power-Performance-Internal-SP001TBSS3A55S25/dp/B07B4G19X3/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=1tb+ssd&qid=1559335102&s=electronics&sr=1-6-spell
About the same cost as your 2 drives together and 240GB less storage, but you'll enjoy fitting that many games on the SSD. Plus by the time you run out of space, you might have the cash to upgrade to an M.2 SSD
​
​
Edit: Also, I'd go for something like this for RAM
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-3200MHz-Desktop-Memory/dp/B0143UM4TC/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2GS78Z9KL72RH&keywords=3200+mhz+ddr4&qid=1559335538&s=electronics&sprefix=3200%2Celectronics%2C165&sr=1-3
Ryzen likes fast RAM, and most people consider 3200Mhz to be the minimum to consider buying. Also priced similar to the kit you have listed.
> Not in this case. 3kMHZ just aounds like you don't know your prefixes.
Well considering that it is industry standard to use MHZ instead of GHZ...
Edit: Your flair says "32 GB DDR4 3000[MHZ]". Do you not know your prefixes?
Ofertas previas al viernes afro:
De nada...
Yeah it'll help https://www.computerbase.de/2019-03/amd-ryzen-cpu-ddr4-ram/2/
You can imagine where 2133 would be. Should be roughly the same difference between the 2666 and 3466 results.
Get any 3000MHz+ kit that people've said works, or is said to work in your mobo's QVL which you can find on its site.
This's great value: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820164137
Or, if you want something more muted: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233852 or https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0134EW7G8
Especially when the Corsair Vengeance C15 3000mhz kit goes for $10 less
Amazons matching this now(with $10.00 coupon): https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0134EW7G8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have this ram over a year now, it works great. For the money its a steal.
I highly recommend this one: SilverStone PWM Fan Hub System Cables, Black (CPF04) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VNW556I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_bv1jhxoFNGKWr
Typical 16gb 3000mhz price.
CAS15 is $65 on amazon.
Might want to pcpartpicker stuff before you post it here.
Hey p_orsk,
So glad to hear that we have another HomeLabber in our midst. I just thought I would take a minute and share with you my current build that has suited me very well. It is completely silent and power efficient, while still powerful enough to do what you want plus more. My build was also built to be small profile so this build is built around a Micro-ITX case. This build cost me $500 in the US in 2017, don't quite know what the price would be now.
As I said, this build should be completely silent. I went into the BIOS settings and turned it on Power-Saver mode for good measure, which makes things run a bit warmer, but keeps fan speeds down.
I didn't list storage here, as it sounds like you got that covered. This motherboard also supports M.2 if you want to add that later.
If I can make one suggestion, I would highly recommend getting into Virtualization. My poison of choice is Proxmox. I could really get into this, but it really helps when you are trying to expand.
If you have any other questions, feel free to comment on this post, or shoot me a DM. I would be happy to help!
[EDIT] This is just my experience. You will get 110 different answers from 100 different people in this world. You kinda just have to tinker to get what works for you.
Yuh, you can get it here
Is it a great price though? Amazon is listing it at 185,88$ regular price. (164,99$ right now)
AMD YD2600BBAFBOX Processeur RYZEN5 2600 Socket AM4 3.9Ghz Max Boost, 3,4Ghz Base+19MB https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07B41WS48/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QL.YDbHSSKT9D
May I suggest that you switch out the low profile Noctua cooler for the [Cryorig H7]?
It'd offer cooler temps at a lower noise, and looks great, in my opinion.
Other than that, impressive build!
GPU holder
I'd recommend buying a USB 3.0 expansion card if your motherboard has a spot for it. This one is suggested by Oculus. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Using a hub serves almost no purpose when it comes to VR because all of the power is still eventually being funneled through one usb port on your computer. That being said, it's possible the Rift and sensors will work with your current set up, but tracking might be a bit spotty using that many 2.0 ports for the sensors.
EDIT: I misread your post a bit. If you're only using 2 sensors and the headset, you should be fine with your set up. I'd recommend plugging the headset into a 2.0 along with one sensor and the other sensor into 3.0. You might need to play around with that part of it, but I think you'll be alright. I'd still recommend the expansion card though.
This is how it breaks down from parts from ebay. Includes shipping. I'll even include links
Base Desktop - $50
Intel Core 2 Quad Q9550 -$30
EVGA 600W 80+ Bronze PSU -$50
16GB DDR2 - $20
WD Blue 1TB - $45
Sandisk 240GB SSD - $40
MSI Twin Froze GTX 770 - $83
Windows 10 Pro License -$7.50 since its so valuable to you. Also its 2018, be real. No one buys full keys or they buy them off eBay. Yes I know they are not legit but once again 2018 no one cares.
Total: $325.50
Even comes with a spare CPU, drive, and 8GB DDR2. Also, you could probably buy most of these parts for less. These were pulled from quick ebay searches. For example, the PSU could be closer to $20 in reality, the card would be closer to $70 and the drive would be around $25 for the HDD and $35 for ssd. That would be $257.50. Still could probably get lower than that. Get real with your prices.
never overclock on the shitty intel cooler
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-RR-212E-20PK-R2-120mm/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1495367377&sr=1-1&keywords=cooler+master+hyper+212+evo
$25
Oculus recommends only one extension card, this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMJEW
You made the same mistake I did. The 7 port card is not as good as the 4 port card. Moar ports is not better.
The 7 port card daisy chains through an additional USB hub causing more chance of issues. Not to mention all 7 ports go through the same host controller.
Read this blog
https://www.oculus.com/blog/oculus-roomscale-identifying-host-controllers/
Then from this screenshot of my computer just then.
http://imgur.com/YQ0WmkZ
Note how the 7 port card goes from
Host Controller -> Root Hub -> Hub -> Sensor
Wheras the 4 port card goes from
Host Controller -> Root Hub -> Sensor
I would always recommend the 4 port one over the 7 port one
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/
I'd like to see a screenshot of the Startech card like mine just to see how they all connect to the PCI bus if you have the time?
Startek will always be the better card but at a cost. Next in terms of quality for a single 4 port Inatek card (two if you really think you need them). I would put the 7 port card at the bottom of the list.
Infact I would not even be recommending it. Great work for putting together the video and it is very informative however you made the same mistake I did and went for moar ports. You should have chosen the 4 port card.
>I've had frequent struggles with USB bandwidth and various cables, and then a sensor flat-out died on me. I'd blamed my USB extenders for so long that I troubleshot the sensor for WEEKS before finally resorting to RMA'ing the sensor, at which point I found the replacement sensor I was sent worked perfectly, and I had just wasted a ton of time troubleshooting a sensor.
Are you plugging all 3 sensors onto your motherboard? You're probably hitting USB bandwidth limits for your USB controller; you probably need a PCIe to USB card. I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM
"If this card is not available to you, use another PCI-E USB 3.0 Expansion Card that uses the Fresco Logic FL1100EX chipset." Source: support.oculus.com
I got the 4-port one, I believe because the 5-port was out-of-stock. After plugging in the power connector to the card, no problems, so I can vouch for this one.
The power supply seems slightly excessive price wise. You could save a little or just get a better one. I have below two cheaper options that should be fine.
http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-BRONZE-Continuous-Warranty-100-B1-0600-KR/dp/B00EON40CS/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1453221894&sr=1-5&keywords=power+supply
http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-110-B1-0750-VR/dp/B00K85X23O/ref=sr_1_11?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1453221894&sr=1-11&keywords=power+supply
http://www.amazon.ca/Cooler-Master-Hyper-120mm-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451446229&sr=8-1&keywords=cooler+master+hyper+212+evo
128.99$ regular price for a 212 EVO eh Amazon? Wow I'm saving 86$ what a steal! How is this allowed....
Anyone got any interesting setups/tv's? Idk why i'm writing this but here are the things I bring to tourneys.
Album link
My Tv Is by far the most eye catching thing. I bought 350 Fortune cookies and have been just taping them on there whenever I finish one. I am pretty much out of them so I have quite a bit all over the TV. The air fresheners were to bring some nice smells to any tournament I went to.
Standard Gamecube: 1.02 melee with newest 20xx TE and vanilla melee memory cards. This is the video cable IOnebring. It has s video + regular composite so I don't have to bring a powered splitter. Explaining more below.
Recording/Streaming setup: This consists of a Webcam which also records player/crowd audio (also a 16 ft extension). An Elgato with 16ft extension. Then I have 2 non-powered composite splitters. I plug in the composite video from the game cube directly into my TV and the S video into the elgato. The result isn't actually too bad (if someone knows how to deinterlace for better video hmu).
The last thing is My Controller: Someone on etsy painted it for me right before big house and so far it's a great purchase. It is of a Palestinian flag and has my tag on it. it doesn't feel any different from any other game cube controller which is great.
Edit: forgot about my headphone setup. I have sennheiser Momentums I bring with my headphone amp and plug that into the tv's audio with one of These. This has a pass through meaning other people can listen through the TV and I can adjust the volume with my amp. I also bring another headphone splitter so people can listen with their headphones.
Yeah, it can be a little overwhelming to figure out where to start. Some good answers already in this thread. The good news is it's actually a lot more straight-forward than it appears. The main source of confusion/apparent complexity comes from the fact that right now both the prior gen and new gen models are still on the market, making it appear that there are a ton of headsets. In reality, there are only four that matter:
Oculus Quest: VR for people that don't have or don't want to buy a decent gaming PC. Cordless, entirely self-contained, no PC needed, no external sensors needed, but limited by the mobile hardware specs. MSRP: $399 USD
Oculus Rift S: really the go-to for a first-time VR headset. Great display that solves most of the clarity issues of older headsets, great controllers, uses inside-out tracking like the Quest (i.e. no external sensors to setup), and pretty reasonable PC hardware spec requirements to run it. So quick and easy to setup that once I finished downloading the software installer, I was up and playing VR in only about 10 minutes. The relatively tiny sound is the only real commonplace complaint, but it does have a headphone jack on the headset. $399 USD
The Valve Index: currently the super high-end of VR gaming. Higher resolution display than the Rift S, higher refresh rate, fancy finger-tracking controllers. Also getting some flack for some quality control issues on its thumbsticks. The only one of the new gen VR headsets to still require external sensors and a base station, which are pretty big negatives for VR newbies since that complicates setup and calibration. Due to the higher specs, it also needs a super high-end PC to really get the most out of it. $999 USD for the starter kit, which does include everything you need to get started, although many users recommend purchasing a third lighthouse sensor (the kit comes with two).
The HTC Cosmos: HTC's replacement for the Vive. Not out yet, so exact specs, pricing, and release date are still unknown. However, it has been confirmed that it will use inside-out tracking (so no external sensors to mess with), and cost less than $1000. The latest unofficial rumors are that it is expected to launch this September, and it's expected to have both specs and pricing somewhere between the Rift S and the Index. Worth keeping an eye on.
What not to bother with:
The Vive. Vive was the premium VR headset of its era, so it's not that there is anything wrong with it per se, it's just outdated and obsolete tech. The display and controllers are just inferior to all of the newer kits.
Windows Mixed Reality (WMR): this one is probably responsible for the VR market looking crowded, since this is a standard defined by MS and not a specific headset, and lots of different manufacturers make or have made WMR headsets. So when you see PC VR headsets from Lenovo, HP, Asus, Acer, Dell, Samsung, etc, they are all just competing WMR headsets. The head strap and display vary in quality, but they all use the same controllers, which are generally considered to be inferior to Vive, Oculus, and Index controllers. The main appeal originally of WMR was to make VR cheaper and easier to get into since WMR has the least expensive headset options, and it was the first to use inside-out tracking so no external sensors. However, its inside-out tracking is done with only two forward-facing cameras, so the tracking is significantly inferior to Quest (four onboard cameras) or Rift S (five onboard cameras) inside-out tracking.
As for specs, your graphics card meets the min, but is at the very low-end of the min. You should be able to run older or less demanding VR games just fine, but may have to run newer or visually more sophisticated VR games at low graphics settings to maintain stable framerate. I would expect Beatsaber to run fine.
One last note: VR headsets, the Rift S in particular, can be pretty picky about your USB 3.0 ports. Specifically, ASMedia USB controllers that many motherboards use tend to cause lots of problems with Oculus headsets. This Inatek add-in USB 3.0 controller has solved lots of people's VR headset issues, is officially suggested by Oculus tech support, and is pretty inexpensive at only around $23. If you decide to pick up a VR headset, might be wise to proactively check your USB 3.0 controller and if it's ASMedia just go ahead and order the Intek USB 3.0 controller along with the headset.
Following is my configuration built 2 years back.
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
Motherboard: Asus Z97-PRO ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory: Kingston HyperX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Sandisk Ultra Plus 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 760 2GB DirectCU II Video Card
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Power Supply: Cooler Master VSM 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply
Case: Cooler Master Storm Enforcer SGC-1000-KWN1
Dell S2240L 21.5 inch LED Backlit LCD Monitor x 2(Got these two for a steal at the Flipkart Big Billion Day Sale)
Cooler Master Keybord & Mouse Devastator Combo SGB-3010-KKMF1-US
Right now playing SOMA.
You really need a better power supply. Drop the Hyper 212 EVO and get this PSU instead. Most budget builds stick with the stock heatsink anyway. I would not put a $10 PSU in anything, you risk frying every component of the build.
Here ya go!
Heads up man, this is super high for what you have. You can buy 16gb 3000 speed for $58 on Amazon
My suggestion: https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Frequency-Expansion/dp/B00HF8K0O6
I've been running this RAM at 3200MHz, stable, since 1.2 actually. Been using A-XMP Profile 2. Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3200MHz
The RAM version is 5.39.
I haven't tried the latest 1.4 BIOS yet, but I'll do so tonight. [Edit: Updated to 1.4 and I'm still stable at 3200MHz]
There's currently 3 on Amazon Warehouse too, £183 with free prime shipping. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/offer-listing/B06XNRQHG4/ref=dp_olp_used?ie=UTF8&condition=used
It's one cooler...
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-heatpipe-NF-A15-140mm/dp/B00L7UZMAK
Yes, and it's $10 cheaper.
(yes, I get the joke. But Noctua brown is sexier than Noctua black, and the brown is a better deal anyway. Literally the only difference between the two is this one looks better.)
Here is a thing that a lot of people seem to be missing out. Your CPU doesn't support higher speed RAM sticks. It supports dual channel at 2667MHz MAX. So you need a CPU that can support higher speed, because AMD LOOOOOOOOOVES RAM. Your motherboard supports up to 3200 MHz OC. The second thing is that you need two exactly matching sticks in order to get the most of your dual channel.
So my suggestion if you are on a budget (because everything else you have seems good) is to do this:
N.B. Do not add the extra RAM into your matching kit on the board. You will jeopardise dual channel.
Good luck and don't forget to update your drivers
Don't be fooled, this is merely an Intel 8260 wifi card I believe but branded Gigabyte https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Frequency-Expansion/dp/B00HF8K0O6/
If one of the PCIe slots is vacant you could get a PCIe card that would add both; this one seems to get good reviews and supports all of the technologies that you'd expect it to, but there might be something better.
I'd go with an internal expansion card over USB, both because it will reduce clutter slightly and because USB wireless cards, in my experience, tend to not be the best.
/u/JetJaguar124 /u/Integralds
So first thing's first, Windows: ~$130 for Home Edition.
Okay, so things to keep in mind:
The GPU you should be seeking to use is the 1660 Ti, which is basically a slightly gimped RTX 2060 but without the raytracing stuff. If you are willing to spend a bit more then you could get an RX 5700 instead, which is nearly ~30% faster on average.
That'll put you at $270 - $360 depending on the model you pick. Yes, it's a third of your budget, but the GPU is the single most important part of your build.
Secondly you'll want a decent CPU to go with that.
The Ryzen 5 3600 looks like a pretty good CPU, its a bit under $200, its fairly beefy and extendable so it's somewhat "future-proof" - in that it shouldn't cause much bottlenecking and you could upgrade your GPU past a 2080 Ti before needing to change the processor.
This MSI Tomohawk Mobo looks good for the 3600.
So we're at ~$320 for that, or about $640 total. Plus windows that is ~$730.
The RAM Inty recommended before should be fine. You only really need 16 GB. This will set you back ~$80. If you find yourself wanting more RAM later down the line you can always add another pair of sticks later and double up your RAM.
That puts us at around ~$800.
$80 for a 750W Fully Modular Corsair PSU is basically a steal. It's refurbished though, although that shouldn't be a problem - especially with a PSU.
We're at ~$880.
Some good thermal paste for your CPU.
We're now at ~$890.
Storage depends on what you want to do. Do you install a lot of stuff and files at once? In which case you might want to get a nice sized SSD plus a big HDD.
For your system drive. Plenty of space, good price, AND its an nvme SSD.
That makes for ~$990.
If you need lots of extra space
If you need extreme extra space
Keyboard and case are up to you, decide as you please. For the case just make sure that it can support an ATX mobo, as the mobo listed here is full ATX. Mechanical keyboards are crack, but they tend to be more expensive so they're probably out of range. This will be another $100 to $150 depending on what you pick.
Something to keep in mind though: Your case and your monitors are basically "future proof". In other words, they won't really get "worse" with time or cause future performance issues. So monitors and case are things where you want to consider what you'll eventually want and buy ahead, even if you have to stretch a bit.
This just leaves your monitor. I would NOT recommend a 1080p monitor above 24 in. Honestly, if you can go for a 1440p monitor then do it. I'm a bit of a resolution whore tho, so if 1080p works for you then that's fine. I would also avoid TN panels - they tend to look more washed out, tinny, and have worse viewing angles . . . although they also tend to be a fair bit cheaper than the good panels (namely IPS panels).
I used to own one of these . . . it was vvy vvy gud. This is a relatively artsy monitor, so if color gamut correctness or whatever is important for you for photo or video editing or whatever, then this is a good pick. It's a bit expensive, yeah, but also super gorgeous. It also goes up to 75 Hz. Conversely, get a freesync monitor, and this one is probably good - haven't done much research on it, but Dells are generally pretty good in my experience (my current 4K monitor is a Dell too). Freesync will allow you to basically eliminate screen tearing and will provide a smoother feeling experience because it will even out frame rates better.
One last thing to keep in mind: Shopping around on ebay and other sites can save you a fair bit. My rule of thumb is to never, ever buy sensitive parts like hard-drives, cpus, or motherboards second hand or refurbished. But everything else is fair game. So refurbished GPUs, Monitors, PSUs, Cases, etc. should be fine. Pre-owned? Ehhh . . . that I'm much, much more sketchy on - personally I wouldn't, but that's just me.
So in total it'd be somewhere in the range of $1500 including monitor, OS, case, and keyboard. The system itself is around $1000. But you can perhaps knock off a hundred bucks or two by shopping around and looking for where you can buy these parts cheaper than Amazon.
But again: investing in a good monitor and case can be worth it. It means you won't have to replace it if/when you do upgrade. And worst case scenario you can offload your monitor as a side/secondary monitor when you upgrade your monitor to a new one.
I paired this with MSI Performance Gaming .. and Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB
lowest price for the past 120 days; not that great if comparing to year or two ago (but all memory went up due to the shortages).
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/p6RFf7/corsair-memory-cmk16gx4m2b3200c16?history_days=120
Amazon has this same model for the same price if you prefer Amazon over Newegg.
https://camelcamelcamel.com/Corsair-Vengeance-3200MHz-Desktop-Memory/product/B0143UM4TC
I got these for $73 in October 2015 NOT on sale. I didn't know how to look for computer part sales then, so I just got them because I wanted an upgrade from my 6GB of RAM I had before that.
Then when I made my new build, I got these for $80 this past Black Friday.
Oh, shit, I was just looking at this on Amazon.
Anyway, I'm hesitant since I'm looking for a GPU brace that can be used for a PC that's going to be lugged around as well. Been searching for months, and found these options:
mnpctech I'm liking this the most because it's made of metal, has more options, but it's also the most expensive.
Puget Systems
Probably the first GPU brace on the market. I remember it used to have 4+ star reviews but now it's dropped.
Atlas This is new, and I'm liking it the second most.
MSI Another new option I've never seen. I like how the pole braces against the top and bottom of your PC case, but I can't stand the MSI Gaming logo even though I have an MSI 480.
I bought one of the Atlas Brackets several months back, just peace of mind. As I despise case windows and RGB in general it's purely for support.
If youre really worried, This is fairly cheap, and looks good.
You are being downvoted because this sub hates Nvidia, but this is a good recommendation. 1050Ti is $186 on Amazon but the RX580 is $250.
/u/tony_montana83 personally I'd go with the 1050Ti or even a 1060 if you are willing to pay around $250.
Price History
ReviewMeta: ★★★★✮ 4.7/5 from 597 valid reviews
CamelCamelCamel - [Info] │ Keepa - [Info]
_
Don't Rook too long, these prices might not last.
^(Info) ^| ^(Developer) ^| ^(Inquiries) ^| ^(Support Me!) ^| **[^(Report Bug)](/message/compose?to=The_White_Light&subject=Bug+Report&message=%2Fr%2Fbapcsalescanada%2Fcomments%2Fe3ph9e%2Fcpu_amd_ryzen_5_260015499%2Ff94b98q%2F%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0APlease+explain+here+what+you+expected+to+happen%2Fwhat+went+wrong.)**
Looks like I am going to go with the following:
Using his r9 290, case, PSU, and hard drives, this should be a nice little upgrade for him.
​
​
Looks like Amazon just matched Walmart's price for those who prefer to order there: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B41WS48
Heads Up, Amazon matched it again ; https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MF7EQJZ
Might want to keep a eye on the Walmart listing as they usually drop theirs down a couple more dollars after their system notices Amazon matched it.
The 1600 is $154 on Amazon and Newegg. It's a hell of a deal imo.
Okay well I did the math anyways;
1600x scores ~1368 in multithreading and costs 231 euros. Which give it a score of 5.9 from your chart.
The 1600 gets ~1258 in mulithreading and costs 199 euros, getting a score of 6.32.
This was done assuming amazon.de prices include VAT, but if they don't and you need to add 19% on top, you still get 5.31 for the 1600 and 4.98 for the 1600x putting them both above 1700 anyways.
I highly recommend both the $56 Macho X2 and the $47 Scythe Fuma air coolers.
They are both roughly half the price of the popular $90 Noctua NH-D15 and perform almost just as well. These coolers are pretty powerful and even go toe-to-toe with some high-end liquid coolers. They are also both relatively quiet coolers too; bang for the buck is very high for these two products.
Just make sure they actually fit your PC case.
Spend a bit extra and get a Noctua heatsink/fan. This is seriously good.
This, however, beats out even AIO water cooling solutions.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Express-Connector-Controller-Internal/dp/B00FPIMJEW maybe you have a Fry's by you?
If your desktop PC doesn't have the USB 3.0 ports, you can buy this add-on card (which is confirmed to work): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMJEW
Amazon price matched that Walmart deal so if anyone missed it, check it out! Also it's available on primenow meaning you can get it tomorrow! https://primenow.amazon.com/dp/B00EON40CS?qid=1494323845&m=AQCUSYIS91P2B&sr=1-0
edit: Amazon and Walmart are huge and it's good seeing walmart fight Amazon. In the end we all win.
I just replaced this card last night after it died on me after 2 months, I'm using this one now by tp-link:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007GMPZ0A
It's working very well so far. My wifi situation is challenging due to that the direct line of sight to the router has 4 walls, 2 of them being brick, but so far this is the best wifi adapter i've used.
http://i.imgur.com/UuoRtxW.png
I haven't seen it drop below 450mbps and my old linksys AC usb adapter never got that high, it would spike up to 300mbps or so every now and then but only for a second or two then drop back down. I ran a ping google.com -t for an hour and had 0% packet loss.
GUYS!!!!!! IT'S HERE!!
I HAVE WORKING INTERNET ON MY COMPUTER!!!
For anyone interested, I bought this.
As Oculus Support pointed out, it might be a bandwidth issue trying to run all 3 sensors from your motherboard.
Pick up one of these https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM and you'll be able to plug in 2 sensors + headset into it, then have the third sensor connected to one of the Motherboard USB ports. General rule of thumb is no more than 2 sensors per USB controller as they require a ton of bandwidth.
If you dont mind spending a little more, this card has 4 USB controllers, 1 for each port allowing you to plug in 3x sensors + Headset or 4x sensors https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Port-SuperSpeed-Adapter-Power/dp/B00HJZEA2S
No, you need 1x USB 3.0 port for the headset and 3x USB 2.0 or above ports for the 3 sensors.
You can add 4x USB 3.0 ports to your computer for $24 (remember, Rift+Touch+3rdSensor is $142 cheaper than HTC Vive, so even if you need this it's still all $118 cheaper).
Motherboards: MSI Enthusiastic Gaming Intel Z270 DDR4 VR Ready HDMI USB 3 ATX Motherboard x2
Ram: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3000MHz C15 Desktop Memory Kit - White x2
Processors: Intel 7th Gen Intel Core Desktop Processor i7-7700K x2
3 of the Monitors (1 is a Benq): ViewSonic VX2452MH 24" 1080p Gaming Monitor HDMI, DVI, VGA
GPUs: GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 1060 DirectX 12 GV-N1060WF2OC-6GD 6GB 192-Bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 ATX Video Card x2
Coolers: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120mm PWM Fan (RR-212E-20PK-R2) x2
Speakers: Logitech Z313 Speaker System x2
Cases: Corsair Carbide Series Air 540 High Airflow ATX Cube Case - Black (and 1 white)
Keyboards: SteelSeries Apex 300 Gaming Keyboard, White LED Backlit and CORSAIR K55 RGB Gaming Keyboard
Mouse: Logitech G600 MMO Gaming Mouse (and don't ask what my cheap ass mouse is, but I love it)
Cat: Pain In The Ass Model
​
What would you like to know about the tech side? I occasionally make videos and have learned a lot about editing and the best tools for the trade and I also know most of what the AH guys use. For example:
Editing as far as I can tell is done with Final Cut Pro X-Not Final Cut Pro X it is Final Cut Pro 7 and occasionally when using a PC to edit they use Adobe Premiere Pro CS6/CC
So there are the tools they use but how the setup works is more elaborate so I will give a set by step instruction of what they do for a Let's Play.
1.) They get the mics out and get them all connected to a single computer that is connected to the tv/monitor set up between Jack and Geoff's desks as seen in this photo
2.)To record their audio and have it all synced together they use Audacity which is what is displayed on the tv/monitor discussed in the first step.
3.) They get whatever video game they are playing turned on and also have their capturing devices started capturing (capture card info and setup here)
4.) After all recording and capturing is on and working they sync their audio to their video by doing something simple like saying up while they are on the main menu of there game and going up on the menu.
5.) Once all these steps are done they can begin recording the Let's Play.
6.) After recording the Let's Play they save all the audio and export it to whoever's computer is going to be editing the video. The video however is first stamped with their name (lets say for minecraft) on the top left of their video and then exported.
7.) The video being exported is then sent like the audio to whoever's computer will be doing the editing.
(I'm a bit hazy on how they do a few things from here but I will attempt to give an accurate depiction of how it's done.)
8.) From here it can vary depending on what the Let's Play is but for the sake of this lets say it's a Minecraft Let's Play. So all of the video has now been sent to Gavin (or Lindsay!) and they put the audio from the Let's Play into the video by using Final Cut Pro 7/Adobe Premiere Pro and the gameplay audio is also adjusted along with whatever audio issues there might be in the recorded audio.
9.) I don't know exactly what Gavin/Lindsay/Whoever uses to swap screens but it is a program that allows them to watch all of the video at once and click which screen will be the visible one at that point of the video. (You could do this without the program but it would take a lot longer.)
10.) After that they will trim the video up by deleting slower segments of the video where not a lot of interesting things happen (another long process). Once the editor believes it's good they will rematch the video for any errors and if they think its good they put the opening and ending banners (logo video parts at the beginning and ending of the videos) and export it one last time.
11.) They will then upload the video to YouTube and either set a scheduled time for it to come out or if its late have it come out immediately then.
12.) They start the process over again for the next Let's Play!
Okay so after typing that all out I want to make it clear I do not work for them so their way of making and editing the video might be a little different but what I have written is pretty accurate to how they make a Let's Play.
Here is a difference for other videos (achievement guides, This Is... , Easter Eggs, HUNT, Fails of the Weak, etc.) as well:
...That's just to name a few differences!
If anyone has any questions I will try to answer them! Also if I made a mistake let me know and I will fix it!
For computers you can use OBS for free to record games. If you're using consoles you sometimes have to buy extra hardware or even mod the console itself. It can be pricy from my understanding, like ~100+ for wiiu, ~300+ vita, etc
This is what my friend has been using to stream his wii u stuff http://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Capture-PlayStation-Definition-Recorder/dp/B00840353W it looks like it can be used for other consoles too
Orei HD-102 ---> Game Capture HD
I highly recommend the Elgato.
More of a minor troubleshooting, no damage story...but maybe just a little reading.
Back in february...Got all my stuff, spent about $2.1k and got everything I pretty much wanted. 1070, 7700k, 165hz 1440p g-sync monitor (the one on sales right now in fact), m.2 ssd, 2x sata ssd, 2tb hdd, some extra random stuff, rog mb and a full size case. So got the cpu in mb, ram in, graphics card, and m.2. Do a post check, all good. Put in the rest of storage stuff, wanted to see how she handled so installed windows...still good. So I proceeded to put in a couple of the less common things. Alright, slap the side on, time to see how she games. Turn it on...won't even post ._. w.t.f. Open it back up, try reseating everything, turn on, posts but crashes...manage to get to bios. So the crash report said failure of usb 3.1 turned on. wtf does that mean? My motherboard has a front panel 3.1 connection, better start there. Find it in bios, turn it off (not using it anyway, case doesn't have one so f it). restart...can't locate windows, loads to bios. Okay, so now what happened. After about 3 hours of searching, retrying things changing multiple configurations, getting even more crashes due to me having no idea what I'm doing, and looking through my mb manual...found the problem! I knew that disabling the 3.1 would disable some sata ports (5 and 6...while I was only using the first 3). Well turns out it also affected the second m.2 slot (the bottom one on the motherboard, used that because it's further from the cpu, and right in front of my side panel fan). So revert all my settings, disable 3.1, swapped the m.2 drive to the #1 slot, ggwp. It's now 2 am, I have work tomorrow (today), and I haven't had a maiden run of a new comp I just assembled...so I did the same thing anybody would do...called in sick.
tldr, had to have usb 3.1 turned off so the bottom pcie x 1 would work and prevent the system from crashing. with usb 3.1 disabled, my second m.2 slot (the only one I was using) became disabled...so had to swap my m.2 drive to the first slot.
Hope all goes well my dude(tte)!
It seems like you're on a pretty tight budget from the comments. This is what I would do.
Used ebay optiplex ($120) - This isn't new tech by any means, but for $120 you're getting a quad core sandy bridge cpu, 8 gb of ram, a 500gb HDD and a Windows license. You can't beat that value.
PSU ($40) - EVGA 500w - Cheap, stable, reliable.
GPU ($105) - XFX RX 460, suitable for most newer games at medium settings at 1080p. If you can spend a little over $300 for your build I'd highly suggest upgrading this to an rx 470.
Overall this system will do what you want for under $300.
I completely forgot you mentioned the store credit... Go for it! But, Try to get a beefier PSU. Anything around 500-600 watts is decent. You're going to want a certified power supply like this! Most GPU's will labeled their recommended amount of watts to drive the GPU.
Good work, your cable management is excellent!
I have a couple of recommendations for you build:
I'd recommend buying a new CPU cooler when you can. The Intel ones are good, but there are so many better ones on the market.
Try this one - I used it in my build for like 3 years. Keeps temps down and fans quiet.
Another thing you may consider is an SSD. You'd be surprised by how cheap they are right now. Here is a 480Gb SSD for only $118 USD.
And as /u/nolo_me said, definitely flip that PSU if it's not too much trouble. Better performance, better sound, better temps.
Ever heard of saving your money? $40 is quite a bit and adds up quickly if it's a recurring amount.
For $40 though, it's more of being able to upgrade parts that you might get. an i5-7500 vs an i5-7600k is a $40 difference.
Upgrading from a regular cpu fan to watercooling is <$40.
Although mining has ruined the prices, upgrading from a gtx 1050 to a 1050ti is <$40
8GB of ram is just over $40.
You need a usb hub my man. Not enough power on your mobo usb. Look on amazon. Here it is.
Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card - Interface USB 3.0 4-Port Express Card Desktop with 15 Pin SATA Power Connector, [ Include with A 4pin to 2x15pin Cable + A 15pin to 2x 15pin SATA Y-Cable ] (KT4001) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_t0TPBb3ZBXT13
If you continue to have problems you will need to buy a inateck board.
Inateck on amazon
If you are gaming at 1080p AND want to be relevant for future games, maybe it would make more sense to get something like a gtx 970/r9 390 for now while waiting to see what next gen cards look like this fall. Could save 300+ dollars and put it towards a monster cooler instead. GPUs are the flavor of the year; a good cooler can be timeless.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0134EW7G8/ref=twister_B07DPGX5CV?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
The additional £20 is worth it for 3000MHz those on Ryzen Systems
How much better is C14 to C16?
You can get a Corsair Vengeance LPX 3200mhx for $78.
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-3000MHz-Desktop-Memory/dp/B0143UM4TC?th=1
is $42 worth it for tighter timings?
is this better or worse than this one?
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-3200MHz-Desktop-Memory/dp/B0143UM4TC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542288358&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=3200+ram
Not really worth it considering the 3200 MHz kit is less than £5 more expensive.
>Mhz really doesn't matter at all
>
>CAS latency
How does that even fit into the same message? You're completely wrong.
TL;DR. No, the RAM clock means a lot. Detailed explanation with examples and math below.
Your comparison to cars is also completely off the mark. To even bring it to something remotely correct, you have to account for the different cars, where slower RAM is an industrial truck running in higher gear, whereas the faster RAM is a sports supercar running 1 gear below the truck, so a truck in 4th gear with medium RPM against a supercar in 3rd gear with high RPM, going in a straight line on a completely flat asphalt road. Want to take a guess which one would win?
I'll even ignore the fact that higher-clocked RAM often has same CAS latency than lower-clocked RAM for the sake of argument.
So here's an explanation of how Mhz and CAS latency really work, which illustrates this point. First off, CAS latency is literally measured in memory cycles, which are measured in Mhz. I'll operate with nanoseconds in my calculations, so Mhz will be translated to Ghz (1Ghz is 10\^9 hz, while 1ns=10\^-9 sec) for easier-to-read numbers.
Say you have a typical 3200Mhz RAM stick (16gb, 75$) with 16 CAS latency. Keeping in mind that the bandwidth for memory commands operate at half the spec clock, we come to 3200Mhz for data transfer, but only 1600Mhz (1600 million per second, or 1.6 billion) for memory commands. Time for one full cycle is thus 1/1600000000 = 0.625ns. Then we multiply that value by the CAS latency number to translate cycles from latency to seconds: 0.625 * 16 = 10ns. This is the real latency of such a stick.
For comparison, let's take this G.Skill memory set (16gb, 70$ - I couldn't find faster) with 2666Mhz and 15 CAS latency. Doing the same procedure, we get 1.333Ghz clock for command interface, full cycle time of 1/1333000000 = 0.750ns, and finally the real latency of 0.750 * 15 = 11.25ns.
If you take RAM with even higher clocks, the difference will be even bigger, for instance RAM with 3600Mhz and 19 CAS latency (10.6ns) would still be faster than 2666Mhz 15 CAS one (11.25ns).
Not only is the first set clocked higher, which brings additional advantages with certain CPU models, especially Ryzen, it also has lower actual latency despite having higher CAS latency. It is literally better in every single aspect that concerns performance. To match that at all, the slower 2666Mhz stick would need 13 CAS latency (that would bring it to 9.75ns), and I couldn't find memory like that. Or in reverse, to make the higher-clocked memory run as slow as the lower-clocked one, you would need 17 CAS latency (would bring it to 11.33ns), which would make the real latency only marginally bigger (we're talking about fractions of a nanosecond here) while having significantly higher throughput, so it would still be faster overall.
So yeah, I would say Mhz of the RAM means a whole lot, while it is actually hard to find higher-clocked RAM with CAS latency bad enough to make it slower than lower-clocked RAM.
/u/paulatreides0, /u/jetjaguar124, u/WeAreAwful
This is not my best guide, but it is a guide. Refinements welcome.
I wish I knew where to post the refined version, because it seems wasted
on the ephemeral DT.
PC building notes, 2019 Q3
Introduction
This post is a a "guide" to PC building in late 2019. It is incomplete
in two senses. First, I make no special claims to authority or objectivity.
I'm just an enthusiast. I have only personally tested a fraction of the parts
listed below. Second, I am writing this before the Intel 10th-gen refresh
and before the release AMD's flagship 3950X. Those new parts may impact some
of the advice given below.
This guide is extremely opinionated. I will simplify and exaggerate to
keep things simple.
This post was written while drinking whisky and listening to
enka.
Internals
What's inside your PC
A PC has seven core components. They are,
and hard disk.
A word first on compatibility. The skeleton of the build is the motherboard,
and you have to make sure that every other bit is compatible with your board.
There are two CPU manufacturers, AMD and Intel; each has their own CPU
design and thus has their own motherboard type. RAM, storage, PSUs, and GPUs
are all cross-compatible with either AMD or Intel motherboards.
Motherboards come in different sizes. A case will be compatible with certain
size ranges. From small to big, these are ITX, m-ATX, ATX, and
E-ATX. You'll want to check that your motherboard can fit in your case.
CPUs
AMD's most current CPUs are the 3000-series Ryzen chips. There are a bunch
of them, but the only two you have to care about are the
The other options are the 3600X, the 3800X, and the 3900X. None of these
are interesting compared to the two listed above, and can be safely ignored.
Intel's current CPUs are the 9th-gen Core chips. I would only seriously
consider two of these chips,
and I'd ignore the rest. If you want to spend less than $350 on a CPU,
then go AMD. If you want to spend more than $350 on a CPU,
go Intel.
A word about prior-gen chips. The AMD 2000 series (2700X, 2600) and the
Intel 8th gen series (8700K) are still viable at the right price. Look at
benchmarks. More on that later.
A word about lower-spec CPUs. AMD sells cheap CPUs that have integrated
graphics. That means you don't need to buy a graphics card with these chips.
As such, a build with the 3400G or 3200G can be extremely inexpensive. Consider
them for office use or basic builds that don't require heavy graphics.
I have personally tested them and they play 4K video flawlessly; they should
be perfectly adequate for basic tasks.
For scientific workloads, ask me to write another post. I can't cover
everything here.
Motherboard
Motherboards only accept either AMD or Intel CPUs, but not both, so you must
choose a board that is compatible with your CPU.
Once you decide between AMD or Intel, you can proceed to figure out which
motherboard you want. There are approximately six billion boards. For AMD,
skip the hassle and just buy the
Note the "MAX." The Tomahawk was released during the 1000- and 2000-series
of AMD processors. The MAX variant is compatible with 3000-series chips
out of the box.
For Intel, I know far less. Any Z390 board should be acceptable.
For AMD, the new X570 boards are available as well. They are pricey and
overkill for 90% of desktop users. Feel free to skip them. Look out for the
B550 boards that are to be released in 2020Q1.
GPU
There are two main manufacturers of GPUs: AMD and Nvidia. Confusingly, they
do not sell GPUs themselves, but market them through partners like MSI,
EVGA, PowerColor, Sapphire, etc.
The GPU stack is a little confusing.
That chart lists all of the main GPUs on the market, and if you count, there
are over 25 GPUs listed. Multiply 25 GPUs by 10 or so board partners,
multiplied again by the fact that each partner sells multiple types of the same
GPU, and you have a recipe for an absolute nightmare of a market.
The prices are only approximate.
Let me cut through the fog. You should buy one of
Pick your price point.
RAM
RAM is distinguished by its generation. We are currently on DDR4, with
DDR5 to come in either 2020 or 2021. This part is easy. Just buy
16GB of DDR4 3200-speed RAM and be done with it.
This kit
will set you back $75 to $85 depending on the day of the week and will perform
adequately for 99.98% of users.
Storage
In 2019, there is no excuse for not buying fast solid-state storage.
For 90% of users, you should buy either the 500GB or 1TB variant of the
Intel 660p and call it a day.
This reviewer
is 100% paid off by Intel, but he's also right on this topic. Buy a 660p
and rest easy.
For enthusiasts, the 660p uses new, cheap, somewhat fragile QLC NAND technology
and you might want to go with a Samsung 970 instead.
That does it for your boot drive. If you need further long-term storage for
music, movies, videos, games, etc, look into either Seagate or WD's 8TB to
12TB options.
I personally have a few WD Gold 12TB drives. They're pricey, but they're
enterprise-grade and haven't done me wrong yet. My firm, which buys storage
by the truckload, loves these things. They rarely fail.
I personally am using a 660p for OS, a second SSD for
some of my media, and HDDs for long-term storage.
Power
I have neither the time nor the expertise to get into a deep discussion of
power supplies. The topic is apparently very complicated. You should buy
something in the 550W to 750W from a manufacturer like Corsair, EVGA,
or CoolerMaster. Make sure it has the number of VGA connectors that your GPU
requires.
Case
The case is the place to really personalize your build. Try not to spend
more than $100, though; at the end of the day, it's just a steel box.
Peripherals
In some ways, the bits outside the computer are more important than the bits
inside. After all, these are the bits you interact with on a daily basis.
Monitors
Monitors are distinguished by size and resolution.
The resolutions available are 1080p, 1440p, and 4K. I recommend the following.
You may also care about refresh rate; the most common refresh rates are 60Hz
and 144Hz. These only matter for gaming.
One particular sweet spot is the "1440p, 27", 144Hz refresh rate" class. Look
up benchmarks and comparison videos.
Keyboard
Pick to taste. Some swear by mechanical keyboards. Others buy standalone
keyboards that mimic the laptop keyboard that they're used to.
Mouse
I have used the Logitech G500 and Logitech G403, and both are fine. They're
somewhat expensive and will run you about $70.
Sound
There are a million ways to fulfill your sound needs. For wired headsets,
the bone-stock recommendation is the AudioTechnica ATH-M50x.
For speakers, I can recommend the Klipsch 2+1.
For more earphone and headphone suggestions, ask me for an extended discussion.
Chair and desk
Don't neglect these. You'll be sitting at that chair for several hours per
day, and you'll use that desk forever. Measure how wide your monitors will be
and buy a desk accordingly. Go to an office supply shop and sit in a few chairs;
pick one that you like. Your desk and chair will last forever, so don't be
afraid to spend a little money here.
Advice
Read Logical Increments in its entirety.
Watch videos from real, serious hardware reviewers. I recommend
Gamers Nexus, Paul's Hardware, and Hardware Unboxed. Anyone else is either
subpar or bought out or provides worthless advice.
Do research, think for yourself, and ask me questions. I'll either give you
advice or point you to reliable resources if I think my advice would be lacking.
Remember that Ryzen loves faster Ram. For a few bucks more you can get the 3200 speed kit.
Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3200MHz C16 Desktop Memory Kit - Black (CMK16GX4M2B3200C16) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0143UM4TC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_G18RCbWFVZT59
Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!
Here are your smile-ified links:
https://smile.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I
---
^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly&nbsp;bot
I use one of these hubs in my ITX build (more for cable management than necessity). It uses SATA power which is handy.
You can definitely stick with the Fractal series. I did because I couldn't have a loud, unsightly machine setup anywhere in my home. I have my main system w/ 10 Drives + 2 SSDs + 3 NVME drives in an R6. That has a DAS connected with 19 drives inside an R5; 8 stock bays + 3 in 2x5.25 bay adapter + extra 3 drive cage + extra 5 drive cage.
As you are in Europe, you might not even have to pay crazy shipping charges to buy spare drive cages from https://www.fractal-design-shop.de/Define-R5_1. In the US I had to source the extra drive cages from r/hardwareswap but that proved to be easier than I expected. Here is a pic I took before I added the 2nd 5-bay drive cage: https://imgur.com/a/TWL8IB1
Edit: Request for more info...
I have not done a build log as I am not yet "finished" with the build, but it looks like there is sufficient demand for parts info so here it goes:
I have an R6 for my main NAS server loaded with the motherboard, 10 3.5 drives and one SSD. The R5 has two extra drive cages (3 + 5) as well a 2x5.25-to-3x3.5 bay adapter.
The expansion cards I use are:
Additional parts I used:
More inspiration can be found here: https://www.serverbuilds.net/16-bay-das
Not sure why they'd throw a 9900K with a 2070... i mean the price isnt God awful... but if you want to save some money I'd go with THIS ONE... quite a bit cheaper and still has a 2070... will fare just fine for the greater majority of things.
&#x200B;
Edit: the one thing that I'd be careful with on this one is the RAM that it comes with... seems to come with 2400mhz ram... not sure how much you know about RYZEN but RAM speed matters a lot more for them compared to Intel... If you go for this computer... I'd probably take the ram out and sell it and throw in something like this. The processor will run MUCH better with that ram and youll probably only have to spend about $40-$50 more after you sell the ram that the computer comes with
http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Bluetooth-Expansion-Components-GC-WB867D-I/dp/B00HF8K0O6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1421396763&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=GIGABYTE+Model+GC-WB867D-I+Bluetooth+4.0%2FWiFi+Expansion+Card
It's $45
The i5-4690K is $209.99 on Amazon right now. Either way, the upper end locked Intel chips almost never make sense considering their cost premium over the slightly lower clocked models.
A few tweaks and optimizations here and there however and we can have a CPU/mobo that's overclockable for the future, and twice the SSD space, for only $20 more.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | $209.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | ASRock Z97 Anniversary ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $91.98 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | G.Skill Sniper Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2133 Memory | $74.70 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $109.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $53.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | Gigabyte Radeon R9 290 4GB WINDFORCE Video Card | $349.99 @ NCIX US
Case | Corsair SPEC-01 RED ATX Mid Tower Case | $39.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $59.99 @ Newegg
Optical Drive | LG UH12NS30 Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer | $34.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 - 64-bit (OEM) (64-bit) | $96.99 @ Best Buy
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $1122.60
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-09-10 18:15 EDT-0400 |
Is there any reason why PCPP randomly doesn't list Amazon prices?
Example:
Why is that?
Just started using the site recently and found that odd.
I sincerely hope you didn't pay $377 just for that CPU, because damn son you got ripped off.
PSU is an easy choice for your build, go with an EVGA 500 Watt PSU. It's not overpriced and has more than enough power for you system
PSU here.
GL, and happy gaming!
PS: obligatory " should've gotten an r9 390 "
Here's a cheap 500W Tier 3 power supply.
Obligatory Intel has a better wifi bluetooth combo card that has better driver support. https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Frequency-Expansion/dp/B00HF8K0O6
The 1600 is only $129 on amazon as well
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Cooler-YD1600BBAEBOX/dp/B06XNRQHG4/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542204069&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=ryzen+5+1600
you could get a GPU brace/bracket or put something underneath it to keep it from sagging.
some people use legos or wooden blocks.
Only markings I can see are "THLVL" and it should be this thing:
https://www.amazon.com/Graphics-Support-Holder-custom-Gaming/dp/B01DQK7DDW
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DQK7DDW/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_0iyCzbSV4VPYY
It's what I have (I have the aluminum one)
Why not go with a GTX 1050ti? You could get one cheaper, they're newer, faster in almost every way, and don't require external power connectors.
Here's one from EVGA for $150
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-GAMING-Support-04G-P4-6253-KR/dp/B01MF7EQJZ
A diferencia de todo los otros comentarios de acá, te recomiendo irte por un Ryzen:
¿Que Ryzen comprar? Depende, en este momento hay varias ofertas porque van a sacar Zen 2 (Que es la arquitectura en la cual se basa Ryzen); por 500 lucas te recomiendo 2 opciones:
Si te interesa cualquier de esas dos opciones te puedo armar una cotización con todas las partes (Más rato eso si, estoy
redditeandotrabajando)Same amazon link without ref code here
Also, though late, this has been posted already here, but with a different ref code.
The 2600 is cheaper on amazon https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Stealth-Cooler/dp/B07B41WS48
Any?
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Stealth-Cooler/dp/B07B41WS48
Hey, just letting you know that you can currently get a brand new 2600 on amazon for less than your asking price.
AMD Ryzen 5 2600 Processor with Wraith Stealth Cooler - YD2600BBAFBOX https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B41WS48/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2-VXDbCGZGTSC
It appears to be available on Amazon now for the same price.
While the $99 Ryzen 3 1200 would get the job done just fine, it could be a bit of a bottleneck if you plan on upgrading your GPU to anything above an RX 580/GTX 1060. For a mere $65 more the Ryzen 5 2600 is a much better choice as far as performance and future proofing go. It would pair quite nicely with any GPU, and won't bottleneck pretty much anything (unless you get something ridiculous like a Titan V, perhaps). As for a motherboard, I've always went with ASUS. The ASUS Prime B350-Plus would be my choice for your price range.
AMD Ryzen 5 2600 Processor with Wraith Stealth Cooler - YD2600BBAFBOX
I have the x model. It is amazing. Have mine paired with a 580. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B41WS48/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lNMODbRT208JV
Thinking about this vs the 2600. I want to upgrade my gfs PC and I wonder if the $55 difference is worth it. She does lots of design work with illustrator/photoshop/indesign and plays lots of games, but she's got a 60hz monitor and isn't bothered by >60fps. Right now she's using an old FX8350 or some fx8000 series amd card and sometimes she's dropping under 30-45fps playing low-medium settings with her 1060 3gb gpu.
What do you guys think?
I5 price is steep... Ryzen 5 2600 is cheaper and better
Is this it? Does it come with the games?
This or the deal on newegg?
There's also this deal.
Here is a PCIe card using Intel's AC 7260 card. It includes Bluetooth 4.0 as well so that's a plus. I have the AC 7260 running in my laptop and it's been flawless throughout the past year of continuous use. Right now it's rather expensive on Amazon. It was around $30 a month ago
Amazon
Newegg
Price Checker
I use this and haven't had any issues. It comes with Bluetooth too.
i have two of these and they're amazing:
http://amzn.com/B00HF8K0O6
(Gigabyte Bluetooth 4.0/802.11ac WiFi PCIe x1 Card GC-WB867D-I)
Also on amazon for those interested https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0134EW7G8/
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-3200MHz-Desktop-Memory/dp/B0143UM4TC
NH-D15
I use this RAM Corsair CMK16GX4M2B3200C16 Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4 3200 MHz C16 XMP 2.0 High Performance Desktop Memory Kit, Black https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0143UM4TC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NJc2CbGSZ8TP1
and it fits inside a Meshify C Dark TG no problem
Just purchased a different set on Amazon this morning, is this a much better deal?
Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3200MHz C16 Desktop Memory Kit - Black (CMK16GX4M2B3200C16) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0143UM4TC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_b2qPCb2X5VJD2
MoBo
This says it supports 3200(OC) Ram should i not get this board and this ram together?
Ram
Im also in the middle of a build and this question has me confused im not as good with specs as i should be. thanks!
Either of these: https://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i3-8350K-vs-AMD-Ryzen-5-3600/3935vs4040
RAM: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0143UM4TC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Any NVME M.2 SSD if you want fast load times
You can megabase to at least 5K SPM with those specs without issue.
I'll just preface this by saying I spent a lot of time browsing the Octane Render forums when I was trying to figure out my build. I don't have links to any threads but there are plenty there discussing system requirements for the renderer.
These are just some of the glaring mistakes. I would recommend you spend way more time researching parts as it is clear that you have spent very little time doing so. It took me around a week of extensive researching to put my build together. Expect to spend the same time doing so.
Get a Noctua cooler. Look at the Amazon review breakdown of this one. 92% 5-star reviews our of 409 reviews. I'm not sure if this one will fit for you though.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00L7UZMAK/
You're wasting money on that memory. Your motherboard only supports up to 3200 MHz memory. Your CPU only supports up to 2133 MHz.
https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/X99DELUXE/specifications/
http://ark.intel.com/products/82931/Intel-Core-i7-5930K-Processor-15M-Cache-up-to-3_70-GHz
Get this memory instead.
http://gskill.com/en/finder?cat=31&amp;series=0&amp;prop_3=2133MHz&amp;prop_4=0&amp;prop_1=0&amp;prop_14=DDR4&amp;prop_2=64GB+%288GBx8%29
ASUS has a new version of your motherboard anyway. I wouldn't buy the old one.
https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/X99-DELUXE-II/specifications/
Do you need the Deluxe? Look at the non-Deluxe version below.
https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/X99-A-II/specifications/
If you're using Octane you could use up to 4 video cards with a different motherboard.
https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/X99E_WS/
Although, if you went that route you would have to do liquid cooling and it would probably only fit in the biggest CaseLabs case. A system like that would run you over $10,000. Such a system would only be necessary if you were working and rendering by yourself on a single system. If that is not the case, 2 cards will suit you just fine.
Western Drives are more reliable. Read the Amazon reviews of this one.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011LVAVEQ/
The choice of power supply is great.
If I was going to do an air cooled system, I would go with this case. I'm not sure if you need it though.
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-HAF-Computer-RC-942-KKN1/dp/B003S68Q0Y
EDIT:
With all that money you're saving on memory you could get a better CPU.
http://pcpartpicker.com/product/NXyxFT/intel-cpu-bx80671i76900k
This CPU supports up to 2400 MHz memory, meaning you could also upgrade your memory.
http://pcpartpicker.com/product/YK8H99/gskill-memory-f42400c15q264grk
I'm not sure about the case or how you're cooling the GPUs. I know from researching on the Octane forums that anything above 2 cards needs to be water cooled otherwise your cards will overheat and you will lose performance. Look into the founders edition because of its blower-style cooler.
EDIT:
I forgot to mention that when I was looking into this for myself I was trying to build a system for animation. If you're only using Octane for stills 2 cards will be great.
Did you buy him the card already? The RX 470 and RX480 are coming at the end of the month and will both feature better performance in battlefield and GTA and both are cheaper than that $250 380 you have in the cart.
But to answer your questions. No the 860k won't be much of a bottleneck in those games. Especially if you overclock it a bit with a good cooler. That cooler in your list only does a light overclock.
Can I also make a few suggestions?
You're building budget but went with a $200 monitor? Might as well spring for freesync and 1ms response time while you're at it.
Better Cooler - trust me it's worth it
2 Sticks of 4GB Instead for Dual Channel
Wifi Pci card over usb wifi
Why not a nice Micro Atx case to match the motherboard
I am almost certain many air coolers at this price point will outperform this AIO.
The cryorig H7 is on sale right now for $35 and I am pretty sure it will stomp this cooler any day of the week.
https://www.amazon.ca/Cryorig-Tower-Cooler-Intel-CPUs/dp/B00S7YA5FQ/
But we frequently get extra $10 rebate on the 212 EVO if you wait.
The H7 is $35 from newegg my friend
Also $35 shipped from amazon
I'm on the fence about this. I am worried about CL16. Would LPX 3000mhz CL15 be better than this?
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-3000MHz-Desktop-Memory/dp/B0134EW7G8/ref=zg_bs_172500_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=98A1TTC0A2YFM5KEMQ7K
They are also on Amazon for the same price without the promo code. I assume it goes off sale at the same time.
Couple new games, like Quantum Break, recommend* 16GB Ram. Still reasonably cheap on Amazon - http://smile.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-3000MHz-PC4-24000-Memory/dp/B0134EW7G8/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458910956&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=corsair+vengeance
Yeah, I got a GTX1080 and a i7-7700K(neither of which are over-clocked at the moment), but my cooler is the relatively inexpensive CRYORIG H7(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S7YA5FQ/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1). I based my build off of a freind's build (which is why I went with that particular cooler), but he got a GTX-1070 and an i5-6600K for his build, so I guess when I went for the 1080/i7-7700k upgrades I probably should have gotten a better cooler as well. This was the first time I had ever built a PC, and going with a liquid-cooling system just seemed out of my league at the moment.
You could do this + this. If you've only got 2 fans, then the one you linked + the power supply I linked would work.
16GB of DDR4 does not cost ~60-90$. Especially at 3000mhz.
2x8GB 3000mhz sticks of Corsair Vengance LPX is currently $195, A 525GB SSD is currently $130.
Just get a USB wifi adapter. Something like this or if you want one thats smaller and less in the way you can get this one. The smaller one probably has less range and lower max speed.
Or if you have extra expansion slots and need faster wifi you can get a PCIe wifi card like this.
NOTE: I haven't done much research on this so the listed products are just examples of the types of solutions available. By no means am I recommending these as the best in their respective classes. I just own TP-link stuff and trust them is all.
Yeah, not something one wants, it can be argued it puts strain on the slot, you could either prop it up with legos (or some other creative way), or get something like this.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DQK7DDW
they have some brackets for this:
https://mnpctech.com/gpu-support-bracket/mnpctech-gpu-support-bracket.html
or
https://www.amazon.com/Graphics-Support-Holder-custom-Gaming/dp/B01DQK7DDW
was thinking about getting one, but I'm going to mount vertically instead.
Gpu sag is normal. Most people don't worry about it. It does bother me, though. Of course mine sags a lot more than that. I use this.
Hi guys! It's been a couple months since I built my first computer. Did some spring cleaning today and updated the colors and realized that I never updated with my new keyboard, which I believe brings the whole build together. :)
Specs:
Monitor: Acer XF240H 24.0" 1920x1080 144Hz Monitor
CPU: Intel Core i7-7700k 4.2GHz (Overclocked to [email protected])
GPU: MSI Radeon RX 480 4GB ARMOR OC
Mobo: Gigabyte Aorus GA-Z270X Gaming K5 ATX
Ram: Crucial Ballistix series 16GB DDR4 3000MHz
PSU: Corsair CXM 550w bronze
CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken X62
Storage: 500GB Samsung 850-EVO series SSD and 1TB WD Caviar Blue HDD
Case: Phanteks Entoo Pro M
Keyboard: Tesoro Gram Spectrum Low Profile G11SFL w/red switches
Speakers: Logitech Z200
Mouse: Logitech G403 Prodigy
Headset: Steelseries Arctis 7 Wireless Gaming Headset DTS 7.1 Surround Sound
Fans: 4qty Corsair Air Series AF140mm Quiet Edition, 4qty Corsair ML 140mm (push-pull on the rad mounted on the front)
Flavour: NZXT Hue+ case lights
GPU Brace: Atlas Graphics Card Brace Support
Of course, constructive criticism always welcome! My boyfriend helped me with this first build, and it's definitely lopsided as far as the CPU and GPU goes, but I think of it as a work in process. :)
Specs:
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $204.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | ASRock H110M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard | $67.99 @ Amazon
Memory | Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory | $68.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Hitachi Ultrastar A7K3000 2TB 64MB Cache 7200RPM SATA III (6.0Gb/s) | $53.88 @ Amazon
Storage | KingDian 120GB With 128M Cache Internal Solid State Drive|$36.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | PNY GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB Video Card | $249.99 @ Amazon
Case | Cooler Master Elite 130 Mini ITX Tower Case | $42.00 @ Amazon
Power Supply | EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $37.48 @ Amazon
Monitor | LG 25UM58-P 25.0" 75Hz Monitor | $181.81 @ Amazon
Keyboard & Mouse | IXCC-LED Illuminated Water-Resistant Gaming Keyboard | $22.99 @ Amazon
Mouse pad | Spigen Gaming Mouse Pad | $7.99 @ Amazon
| PC Sub Total | $762.31
| Monitor & Peripherals Sub Total | $212.79
| Total Build Cost | $975.10
That motherboard doesn't have a wifi adapter. You'll need to get a separate one like this one or a cheap USB one
Well well well, frenchie.
&nbsp;
> 1600 isn't available for a month
&nbsp;
> Hyper 212 evo is unavailable
&nbsp;
> It's the same price as the 650 and unavailable as well, lol
You could buy something like this and add usb 3 to your pc though
Get this .. fixed it for me (with an asus mobo)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501513258&amp;sr=8-4-fkmr1&amp;keywords=itek+usb+pcie+card
Valve specifically recommends an inateck card .. see here https://support.steampowered.com/kb_article.php?ref=8566-SDZC-9326 (I assume they all use the same chipset)
960 is min spec.
970 is recommended spec.
CPU should be ok, I used a fx 8350 from last July until a month or so after Ryzen came out. On a Gigabyte 990FX-UD3 actually, I think. There were a couple of different versions of that board and they did change the usb3 controller at one point.
Everything looks good, the only potential problem is the sensors not liking the USB3 ports (the headset isn't that picky), but the sensors will work on the USB2 ports and you can get one of the known working USB3 cards if you want to give your sensors more omph. I got the Inateck one way back at the beginning, but there are more known working ones now.
In Oculus's roomscale extra equipment blog post they listed a few more controllers:
Here are a few USB cards we’ve used with reasonable success:
Four Controllers (One Per Port. Requires placement in x4 or x16 PCI-E slot)
• HighPoint RocketU 1144d
• Startech SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Card Adapter
Two Controllers (One Per Two Ports)
• Startech SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Card Adapter
One Controller (One Across Four Ports)
• Inateck Superspeed USB 3.0 Expansion Card
They did put a footnote at the bottom of the blog post, but I think it was more in reference to the hdmi/usb extension cables, which are notoriously finicky.
Footnote is:
**Non-Oculus equipment/service references are not recommendations, guarantees, or endorsements of products or performance. Your results may vary. These are instead options to vary your own customized experiences. Furthermore, incorrect installation or use of any products or items can damage your computer, space, or otherwise impact performance. If you’re not experienced or qualified to do so yourself, please seek assistance.
Unfortunately that isn't the 'Oculus' recommended card, but this is. https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-KT4001-SuperSpeed-Ports-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522101057&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=inatek
It is very likely that the chipset on that Rosewill isn't 'properly' compatible
> it dumps me into a gray room
Do you mean:
Anyways this sounds like USB-bandwidth issues. A good long-term solution is to get a PCI USB 3 card. This one is good.
The rift is a very good deal right now, coming in at $200 cheaper for the controller+headset it's hard not to recommend that route until HTC drops their price a bit, but I will give you my observations.
If you have space I recommend the Vive as tracking can get wonky on the Rift in a large space(bigger than 4m diag), and having a large space for VR actually makes VR much more gratifying in my opinion. The Vive is also a bit better for people willing to tinker and upgrade as it is a little more open and available for those sort of things(see tpcast, delux audio strap, aGlass). Initial setup on the Vive is also a bit easier since the two trackers only need power cabled to it, while the rifts cameras require usb cords(no power) running all the way to the computer.
The Rift is definitely more ergonomic, and it breathes better causing less heat and sweating. It's possibly the more cost effective purchase at $200 cheaper, and it has more of that polished just works kind of look and feel to everything. I like to compare it to an Apple vs Android sort of thing, while SteamVR is a little more robust(android), Oculus home feels a bit cleaner and more polished(iOS). Then again, you can always just use SteamVR on the rift natively if you want since it supports both headsets, Oculus home only works with the rift. As far as the just works part, The nice thing with the rift is you just put it on pick up the controllers and you are in, it even has voice commands that work very well to launch the game. There is no on/off button on anything, it all just works and starts automatically when you put it on as long as your computer is on, don't even have to start up oculus home. The Vive has a similar autostart feature, but it is a bit more clunky, requires steam to be running, doesn't always work in my experience, and requires holding a power button on the headset to initialize followed by the power buttons on both controllers.
If you go with the Rift I highly recommend buying a third camera as this will allow tracking basically on par with the Vive outside of large areas and also has the added benefit of having a bit better occlusion resistance than the Vive which is limited to 2. Also be aware of the USB requirements for the rift. You are going to want at least 3 free usb 3.0 ports and one usb 2.0 port. If your pc does not have this, I recommend adding this..
https://smile.amazon.com/Inateck-Express-Connector-Controller-Internal/dp/B00FPIMJEW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494008967&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=pci+usb+3.0
Honestly, even if it does I still recommend one of these as splitting up the usb 3.0 connections between your motherboard and this card helps prevent strain on bandwidth which can lead to tracking issues, and if your pc is capable running everything through usb 3.0 instead of one on 2.0 helps tracking as well.
If you have a desktop, I would think you would have more luck going with the Inateck PCIE card
Eh no, you'll need a Usb 3.0 PCI express card.
Just my opinion based on my experience, that's all.
The reason being that your board probably only has a single USB 3.0 controller on it, and that's not enough bandwidth overall, especially if you want to expand to room scale with additional sensors later.
Save yourself a headache, get either:
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-KT5001-5-Port-Express-Connector/dp/B00FPIMJEW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519902478&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=inateck+usb+3.0
OR
https://www.amazon.com/Express-SuperSpeed-Adapter-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519902611&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=startech+usb+3.0+pcie+expansion+card
though price-wise starting out, the Inateck is fine.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMJEW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
should have went with this, more ports, and also has 2 controllers on it. MORE POWER!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0079XWMEI/ref=s9_simh_gw_p147_d0_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=center-2&amp;pf_rd_r=1WQVJ2NJ1RJ6ZC7ZZFNP&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=1688200382&amp;pf_rd_i=507846
Please note this intel 3160 you linked does Not go into PCI-E on your standard Desktop motherboard. It actually goes into the Mini PCI-E often found on laptop motherboards.
Please don't buy this for a desktop build and expect it to fit!
For a good wireless card that fits in your standard PCI-E slot, checkout the TP-Link ones, they also come in PCI options as well. I purchased the wdn4800, on newegg when it was 25 or so dollars, and have been happy with it. As a note, I have multiple walls in between my Build and the wireless router and have never gone below 3 out of 5 bars (according to win 7) but am most often at 4.
So.. my wireless card in my tower is dual band and I get 300 MB/s.
My wireless router is what gets it to 300 but I know that the card can go higher, should I upgrade my router?
I'd like to know more about wifi and wired connections if you have any links.
I have an Elgato and I love it.
Absolutely. I have an Adobe Creative Cloud membership at a discounted rate through my college, and I'm using Premiere Pro to do the editing.
I'm using an Elgato capture card and a Blue Snowball mic. Maybe it was a bit crazy to go with this particular setup with no experience, but I really like the quality and the result. Links below!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00840353W
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000EOPQ7E
EDIT: I found my Snowball mic at Best Buy for $49.99 -- about $9 cheaper than Amazon.
For the device manager, the two most common are an ASMedia USB controller, or an Intel USB controller. ASMedia basically has a crap load of issues. If you have that, you'll want to buy a PCIe USB 3.0 card ($20 or so) to fix your issues. The Inateck 4 port card works best I've found (do not buy a 5 ports as half the ports are also crap), as long as you don't install their custom drivers and stick to the microsoft defaults.
If you have Intel ports, I'm not sure what the issue would be, and an external card might still solve your problems
I think I'll actually try to answer your questions (instead of just spamming my fanboy agenda).
Some further notes:
Your cooler is just a fan, get the CM Hyper 212 EVO. Your motherboard is incompatible with the processor, get the MSI H81M-P33. Your harddrive is a slow spinny spinny, get the WD Caviar Blue. Your graphics card/cpu is unbalanced, either downgrade the processor to the Intel i3-4160, or upgrade the graphics card to a GTX 960 or R9 380.Edit: No aftermarket cooler with the i3-4160.
What are you going to do with your PC? If it's just gaming then an i7 is a bit overkill. I'd recommend the FX 8350 with this build and if you want to overclock, I'd recommend the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO CPU cooler. And you're right, it would be a great gift!
I know that feel bro, I had a AMD Phenom II x4 965BE that also ran at 125W. After upgrading to a Hyper 212 sound and noise were no longer an issue, (just size was, and I went without my stock case side panel the whole summer, lel)
Here is a $20 cpu cooler http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103064&amp;nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC&amp;cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC-_-pla-_-CPU+Fans+%26+Heatsinks-_-N82E16835103064&amp;gclid=CjwKEAiAg_CnBRDc1N_wuoCiwyESJABpBuMXlsgcfmGTOTavNvaSEJXZrNDQStKLkb4A_PBBXCHx-BoC-T_w_wcB&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds
And a comparison to the stock cooler on the fx 8350:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MH9Oj_g6xYU
Or if you have $35 you can get the Hyper 212:
http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1425882089&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=212+evo , its better performance and almost silent for me (its been with my phenom and now its with my intel)
Use eBay.
Total: $512 or possibly less if you make some offers -- for a very capable system.
Few useful links to get you started.
Oculus Rift Room Scale Setup Guide
List of recommended cable extensions
I'm using 3 Sensor setup in L configurations with CableCreation CD0034 and Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card. My sensors are mounted about 10 inches and 40 degrees away from the ceiling. Perfect tracking in the play area. Good tracking out of usual play area, when in bed playing seated games in view of only two sensors which are 12 to 15 feet away.
I think this is the officially reccomended card
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM?colid=1NWO799606SRK&amp;coliid=I4XNUHZFED1DM&amp;psc=1&amp;ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl
No.
Get this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM
It's the Oculus recommended USB expansion. You need dedicated ports, not splicing the bandwidth of 1 into 4 via hub. Cheaper PCI expansions are often not good enough, so get the one I just linked.
Change the link to .co.uk and it'll still show you the right product.
It's showing $10.99 shipping when using NCIX Ground. To process the transaction today it would be $57.99 + $10.99 = $68.98. Then a MIR of $30.00. Final price after receiving the MIR will be $38.98.
Amazon has it for $39.99 with free shipping and 2 day shipping for Prime members.
If NCIX had free shipping it may be worth it.
In op's defense here are some prices I found online.
Processor ($339.99):
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117826&amp;ignorebbr=1&amp;nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC&amp;cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC-_-pla-_-Processors+-+Desktops-_-N82E16819117826&amp;gclid=Cj0KCQjwgOzdBRDlARIsAJ6_HNntpJGeKcrIqLK_yPxSRmiBoa8Lvce7tKruCKMuIBUeanOlFagQmK0aApfGEALw_wcB&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds
Graphics Card ($550.83):
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-08G-P4-6286-KR/dp/B01GAI64GO
RAM ($129.99):
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231888&amp;ignorebbr=1&amp;nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC&amp;cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC-_-pla-_-Memory+%28Desktop+Memory%29-_-N82E16820231888&amp;gclid=Cj0KCQjwgOzdBRDlARIsAJ6_HNluiesSkg9CxxBfxBDmz1HWxtmFUiMwnkaY7NVmjP6ZhSJRDLMI8AcaAot_EALw_wcB&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds (EDIT: made a mistake with ram. Previous was DDR3)
PSU ($56.99):
https://www.amazon.com/Apevia-ATX-JP800W-Certified-Supports-Crossfire/dp/B01IE09DXM/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1539020247&amp;sr=8-13&amp;keywords=800+watt+power+supply
CPU Cooler ($29.99):
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212E-20PK-R2-Direct-Contact/dp/B005O65JXI
SSD ($55.99):
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147676&amp;ignorebbr=1&amp;nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC&amp;cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC-_-pla-_-Solid+State+Disk-_-N82E16820147676&amp;gclid=Cj0KCQjwgOzdBRDlARIsAJ6_HNkIQk5_jTrXnqxvt_MIapC1vkX1Gi07g7kvIAkyp_NlJE7IL1MrCvMaAuQEEALw_wcB&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds
HDD ($45.99):
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822236339&amp;ignorebbr=1&amp;nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC&amp;cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC-_-pla-_-Hard+Drives-_-N82E16822236339&amp;gclid=Cj0KCQjwgOzdBRDlARIsAJ6_HNkf9uXrvZly4mlfMtSPCSOJVbsDW1TXGscIqEVyzNOvp1Viya-ITYAaAmnyEALw_wcB&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds
339.99+550.83+129.99+56.99+29.99+55.99+45.99=$1209.77 (EDIT:Made a mistake with calculation and also want to note these all are found through quick searches and most don't look like top quality products. What op has is probably priced a bit more than all these parts. Also click on the frickin pc part picker on the post.) without case, monitor, and motherboard included. It is quite a steal in my opinion. By the way op are you wiling to sell just your CPU cooler to me? What would you price it at?
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-Direct-Contact/dp/B005O65JXI
i'd swap out the cooler for something a bit bigger. like this https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-RR-212E-20PK-R2-120mm/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511120598&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=cpu+cooler&amp;dpID=518BEXKEiiL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
Oh my god please don't do a prebuilt from here and not likes Dell prebuilt like someone built it here. You can learn so much but buying the parts, and researching it can be a bonding experience with your son!
Edit: SORRY IN ADVANCE FOR A WALL OF TEXT!
anyway lets get this build started!
Idk what you want but for a case that looks super sexy the NZXT S340 would be a good start, cheap and nice.
CASE:NZXT S340 Mid Tower Case CA-S340MB-GR Matte Black/Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T4BWUUY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wR12xbKDZPNE8
Note: $74 Jet.com has it cheaper. (GET THE BLUE AS I MADE IT A BLUE BUILD)
CPU:Intel Core i7-2600 Quad-Core Processor 3.4 GHz 8 MB Cache LGA 1155 - BX80623I72600 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EBUXSU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nT12xb7BECNJC
Note: $164
MOTHERBOARD: ASUS P8H61-M LE/CSM R2.0 LGA 1155 Intel H61 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008NA1K0S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_b112xb1T6M7HK
Note: $94
RAM: PNY Anarchy 8GB Kit (2x4GB) DDR3 2133MHz (PC3-17000) CL10 Desktop Memory (BLUE) - MD8GK2D3213310AB-Z https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012DT0IB6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_h412xb3VC5JNW
Note: $45
POWER SUPPLY: EVGA 500 W1, 80+ WHITE 500W, 3 Year Warranty, Power Supply 100-W1-0500-KR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_E512xb56068FP
Note: $37
GRAPHICS CARD: ASUS ROG STRIX Radeon RX 460 4GB OC Edition AMD Gaming Graphics Card (STRIX-RX460-O4G-GAMING) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K1JVQI4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_z712xbFGF2Y2T
Note: $140
TOTAL: $554
Edit 2: As your budget is $600 and I don't know how lenient you are with going over or what, but an Asus RX 470 would be a better graphics card and would increase the total to around $650.
Edit 3:
AFTERMARKET CPU COOLER:Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120mm PWM Fan (RR-212E-20PK-R2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_E-12xbR7ZCHBK
Note: $28
Edit 4: If you want peripherals that's gonna be around $1000 in total for decent crap. I would suggest a 1080p 60hz monitor, a mechanical keyboard ( I use a G. Skillz KM780 RGB and it is fabulous), a nice pair of headphones HyperX cloud 2, and a nice set of speakers Logitech Z506. Also idk what you have but get a wifi adapter as well unless you can hook up to Ethernet which is highly recommended.
Edit 5: If any other questions just PM me glad to help you out more.
Edit 6: shit I forgot drives and OS. I'm too tired to link things anymore so I suggest getting a 128gb Samsung PRO SSD for your OS and main shit then get a Seagate 1TB HDD and you're good to go. Hopefully I covered everything.
Honestly 500-600 wouldn't make a very decent computer for a first rig. You can make one and well I made one just right now but that doesn't take into account peripherals. If you wanted 500-600 WITH peripherals that would have been the hardest budget build of my life. To maintain quality and performance, I'm cringing just thinking of it.
Omg your friend is an ass! I’m sorry but I’m amazed that thing is running! Please refrain from having the computer on until you get a proper cooler for BOTH your processor and graphics card. You are likely damaging the computer every time you run it.
for the processor
I don’t know what to do about the graphics card honestly but you need to cool that as well. You might be better off getting water cooling and installing it. But you also need to cool the GPU as well.
That picture of the acrylic that you don’t what it is, that is a water cooling block for the GPU!
Same with the processor, that’s a water cooling block sitting on it!
Your friend literally took out the water cooling but didn’t replace the fans!
this thing. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0079XWMEI/ref=s9_simh_gw_p147_d0_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=center-2&amp;pf_rd_r=1WQVJ2NJ1RJ6ZC7ZZFNP&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=1688200382&amp;pf_rd_i=507846
This should work.
TP-Link Wireless PCI-e adapter
This is usually the recommended adapter around here.
P.S. While some (i.e. none) components may try to murder your PC in its sleep, you personally should be safe.
This is the exact one I use. It does its job. There are also powerline adapters that are supposedly pretty great. I don't have a set up that would work with them, but I've seen them recommended plenty of times.
Since no one is giving you an actual product I would highly recommend this. You can get them in different sizes depending on your wireless speed. I have one in my rig and haven't had any problems so far regarding internet.
To capture the TV screen, you would use what's called a capture card,
such as this one. Your console output goes in one end of the card, and the other end of the card goes out to the TV. A third connection runs to a computer where it can be recorded by recording software. This connection contains all the same video and sound that goes to the TV.
To record yourself, you would just connect a standard webcam to your computer and either 1) record it into the same program, or 2) record with a different program and edit it together later
If you want to do 10ft extensions on the Rift S you need high quality cables, at least for the usb 3.0. I use Cables Matters usb and displayport cables to do 10ft on my Rift S. Nothing I have seen will allow the Rift S to do longer than 10 feet extensions.
The amazon basics 10ft usb cable would not work for me and I returned it and the cables matter one did. You also need a good usb port, in my case I needed to order an Inateck ktu3fr-4p usb card to have my Rift S work without and black screens or static passthrough problems.
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Extension-Feet/dp/B00L1K1KDE/
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Extension-Black-Feet/dp/B00C7SA21U/
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/
Have you got a PCI-E slot free? you can get a simple PCI-E to USB 3 card such as this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM
Here you go this is a quick one I found so I would suggest you do some searching for them
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMJEW
ordered it and got it within 10 days (Netherlands)
Assuming PCIe, I use
RenesaFresco Logic based card below:https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00FPIMJEW
Mouse/keyboard and USB audio get passed through when guest starts and then back when guest closed.
Use cheap USB KVM with this so I can get keyboard/mouse back to host when guest running if I want to.
Internal header also means I can pass 2 of case front ports to Guest, quite handy.
I bought this card - is this not compatible?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMJEW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Well you'd need a new graphics card and cpu.. but to upgrade cpu... you'd need a new motherboard which means new ram aswell... and on top of that a new psu to power it all .. which basically the entire computer.. so costly~~
Unless someone can think of a decent cpu that fits the same socket..~~
Edit: ok after some digging this is what we got:~~CPU: Intel X6800
(http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&amp;id=152054248661&amp;alt=web )
£40 ish~~
~~RAM: 4gb Ddr2
(http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&amp;id=191857898668&amp;alt=web )
£20 ish~~
~~GPU: this is very flexible let's throw in a gtx 970 for now (it mightnt be supported this can be checked later)
(MSI NVIDIA GTX 970 Gaming Twin Frozr HDMI DVI-I DP Graphics Card (4GB, PCI Express, DDR5, 256 Bit) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00NOP536Y/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_tKtkxbGQRE3JA)
£275~~
~~Psu: 500w
(EVGA 100-W1-0500-KR - 500W 80 Plus Power Supply (100-W1-0500-KR) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_fLtkxb3Q3SQ76)
£35~~
You might want to consider a bigger hard drive maybe an ssd, also the gpu I suggested is most certainly overkill for everything else and mightnt work but it's only to give an idea for now.. I'm not even sure how well the x6800 will perform, hopefully someone more in the known can add to thisedit: i was talking rubbish
Definitely cutting it close. Under load its possible your card and CPU could ramp up past 380w. I would suggest this EVGA 500W power supply to give yourself a little more breathing room.
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1BPFVFF5CZWEJ&keywords=evga+500w&qid=1567733542&s=gateway&sprefix=evga+500%2Caps%2C172&sr=8-1
A quote from a similar thread:
>No.
>Get this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM
>It's the Oculus recommended USB expansion. You need dedicated ports, not splicing the bandwidth of 1 into 4 via hub. Cheaper PCI expansions are often not good enough, so get the one I just linked.
>Change the link to .co.uk and it'll still show you the right product.
Disable power management on all Generic SuperSpeed USB hubs and USB root hub 3.0 hubs in device manager. Check your Power Plan
https://www.hamoperator.com/Fusion/FusionFiles/K9EQ-Fusion-PDF-0023.pdf and the following link will show you how to disable Power Management on USB hubs in device manager.. https://community.spiceworks.com/topic/2127202-disable-usb-root-hub-power
If the above doesn't work you may need a usb 3.0 expansion board but power management must be disabled on all USB devices
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Also if you are extensions test the unit without using the extensions.
So just to clarify, this PSU isnt noticeably inferior to the EVGA 600W 80+? (Link: https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Bronze-100-B1-0600-KR-Power-Supply/dp/B00EON40CS)
For a i5-6500, radeon 480 build, does anyone think that the Bronze is a better bet, or is this version ($15 cheaper) the correct buy?
I'll link for you:
Elgato
24" BenQ monitor, 2013 Astro A40s, Scuf controller.
The BenQ is a nice monitor. Good picture and a solid price.
You can't beat Astros imo, but it's personally preference. I've seen people say Tritons are the best and Astros suck, vice-versa, etc. I've had a few pairs of Turtle Beaches in the past, and the Astros really do blow them out of the water in sound, controls, and comfort.
The Scuf is something you get used to. I never thought I needed one then decided to get it. After a few weeks, I could never see myself playing without one. It has became complete muscle memory to jump (a lot).
I also have an ElGato capture card. If you're going to get into Gamebattles or tourneys online, some sort of capture card is pretty much 100% needed because you will get disputed for either no reason at all, or for ridiculous reasons that you can only prove with footage. It was $150 or something, but worth it if you play a lot of GB's.
Here's my setup.
Overall, over the past year, I've spent around $500 on my setup. Seems ridiculous now that I look at that price, but eh, if you can afford it, it makes the game more enjoyable.
Here are some links for those curious:
24" BenQ Monitor
Astros (I bought mine refurbished for $100 less than retail on eBay)
Elgato HD Capture Card
Scuf Controllers
It seems not all dvi to hdmi adapters will work, the cable matters works for some people at least. There is also the cable matter display port to hdmi adapter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K0UDYLM
You can also try use a HDMI repeater instead of extension https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GHL72XS/
I personally just use the AmazonBasics hdmi on gtx780ti and usb extension connect to the Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH12O5I
Please help me compile a list of known issues so we can itemize and isolate them with known successful fixes. If anyone has fixes please pile on and share them.
Known issues
https://www.reddit.com/r/oculus/comments/5j21cd/a_plea_for_oculus_to_put_together_some_resources/
TROUBLESHOOTING
Recommended Equipment
I see lots of downvotes to this guy who's obviously not as experienced as you guys. What's the purpose of this subreddit again? I thought it was for newer builders to ask questions and experienced builders to help.
OP, you've probably gathered by now that your stock i5 cooler isn't going to good enough. For how much I like to rag on Intel and performance per watt (essentially, performance compared to heat output) the 8700K isn't terrible. The Windale 6 is roughly $45 and perfectly competent with cooling the 8700K. If you wanted a cheaper solution the Cooler Master Hyper 212 is also a fairly solid choice. Personally I'd recommend the Windale 6 over the Hyper 212 but if, for some reason, the $15 difference is necessary the Hyper 212 would be competent. You wouldn't be able to squeeze as much performance out of the 8700K with the Hyper 212 as you could with the Windale 6 but it would get the job done.
The build looks solid, just a few things
Edit. I found a $25 network card because I don't know you're willing to spend on one. https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-TL-WN881ND-Wireless-Express-Adapter/dp/B0079XWMEI/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521507801&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=network+card
Edit 2. There is a 15%OFF Everything On Ebay. https://pages.ebay.com/promo/2018/0320/7019.html
So I found this equivalent which should be $194 after the coupon without tax or you can get other ram. https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Team-T-Force-Vulcan-16GB-2-x-8GB-288-Pin-DDR4-SDRAM-DDR4-3000-PC4-24000-Desk/201694919705?hash=item2ef5f43c19:g:GnsAAOSwa8dZ0P4~
the 1060's are kind of high priced right now, if you want to save a bit more money but still see a massive boost in performance, i'd recommend the EVGA GeForce GTX 1050 Ti SC GAMING 4GB, its got an extra gig of memory and runs at USD 159.99 on amazon right now. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MF7EQJZ
Just so you know, these new on Amazon are quite a bit less than what you're asking:
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Cooler-YD1600BBAEBOX/dp/B06XNRQHG4/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=ryzen+1600&amp;qid=1556857154&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
This (1500x) is their best quadcore with full 2CCX's worth of 16MB L3 cache https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Cooler-YD150XBBAEBOX/dp/B06XKVNRSM/r
But I'm sure the hexacore 1600 is their best midrange CPU (and best value at under $220). It's basically a higher end CPU at midrange price.
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Cooler-YD1600BBAEBOX/dp/B06XNRQHG4/
Whether the Ryzen 5 1600x qualifies as mid range or high end might depend on your income figure. I'd consider it either. $270 at Amazon right now.
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-1600X-Processor-YD160XBCAEWOF/dp/B06XKWT7GD
Agreed , 1600(non x) w/ Wraith Spire $199.99 is the better option for the budget , saved around $30 there .
Where are you getting the price for that ryzen 2600?
It's £125 just glancing on Amazon.
Hey just so you know, the 2600 is only $129 new with the cooler on amazon...might want to consider lowering it a bit.
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Stealth-Cooler/dp/B07B41WS48
That is a steal, if you buy it for 750 AUD (540 USD) you could sell the RAM and buy faster sticks, like these ones. As for the CPU, you could overclock it with that liquid cooler, saving some money by not having to buy a new cpu. The GPU is worth the 750 AUD itself, but I can see if the value of it has gone down due to usage overtime. Other than that, this is a great rig and I'm sure it will perform great.
The Corsair LPX ram is priced at basically retail, it's 139 on Amazon, and shipping isn't included in your price
Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3000MHz C15 Desktop Memory Kit - Black (CMK16GX4M2B3000C15) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0134EW7G8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jA65BbDYA02TWL
Some additional photos can be found HERE. Full specs are below:
Rig on the right:
Rig on the left
Desk
Upgrade that ram, ryzen LOVES high speed. Get something like 2x8gb 3200: https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-3200MHz-Desktop-Memory/dp/B0143UM4TC Only $20 more
For the case I would use this: https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Rackmount-Computer-Pre-Installed-RSV-R4000/dp/B0091IZ1ZG and take off the rackmount ears.
You could also go with a ryzen 2700x based system like u/rtkierke said and that would give you 2 more cores and 4 more threads, just make sure to get fast ram with ryzen to have the best possible experience. Something like this corsair kit or if you wanna keep with RGB you could get this kit
I have these
www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0143UM4TC/
with my Vega 56 + 2700x at 1080p, is their frequency fine or any recommendations for RAM that would suit my build better?
hate to do this but the new version of that ram is going for only $70 brand new on amazon. ram prices have plummeted in the past few months
the 2600 is availible from amazon for $150:
https://smile.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Stealth-Cooler/dp/B07B41WS48/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1539755181&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=2600
As someone who has designed many networks for paying customers, I advise you to drop this bad idea.
It can't be done. Phone lines are not part of the Cat N system. Ethernet requires 4 twisted pairs of wires to suppress the noise and cross talk. Phone lines are simply 4 straight wires. The Ethernet connectors are wired in a specific wsy to keep the signals clean.
You would be better off installing a nice mesh wireless system. Install, configure,use & enjoy. Trying to repurpose phone lines will yield unending frustration.
If you choose to roll your own with Cat 5/6 cabele, here is the connector pinout (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B41WS48/ref=twister_B07G285RYJ?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1). You should use the T568B pattern for better results. There are a number of guides to designing a proper network.
The 2600 is an excellent, excellent CPU. Easily the best bang-for-the-buck processor available at the moment, at it's regular price of $170. Right now, it's available for $150.
It's also overclockable, while the 8400 is not, which puts it ahead with no contest.
A B450 motherboard is the standard option.
Eh, DDR3 is expensive for what it is, but that's if you buy it new which I wouldn't recommend for this kind of system. An Fx-8350 costs as much as a 2 Gen Ryzan 5 at this point, there really isn't much of a case for building one new. However you can usually find killer deals on second hand sites like shopgoodwill.com. Some of the machines will need repairs (most of the time a hard drives/ssd does the trick) but I've always had pretty good luck with them.
Only thing I would suggest is the i5 4690k and a R9 280(cheaper and better)
If you're not going to need an amazing CPU (read: gaming only, you're not going to be editing videos 12 hours a day), and you want to overclock, get the i5 4690K. It's cheap on Amazon (here's the link).
If you want amazing performance and still want to overclock, get the i7 4790k. You probably don't need this, but again, if you're editing videos a ton, it would be nice. It is around $270 though.
Apparently someone suggested me this
Computer hardware prices will make you laugh, especially if you are looking at premium international brands.
I wanted to buy a CPU cooler (Noctua D15) and it still is listed for 13,899 to 18,155 on Amazon IN. On NewEgg India it's listed for 5,499 INR, plus either 450 for shipping by Noctua Austria or 2,000 for shipping by NewEgg International. If imported from Amazon.com it will cost around 7k including everything.
So Amazon India should actually be more vigilant in finding and bidding goodbye to these sellers.
Instead of the 212 Evo, how about Cryorig H7? Same price range, way better.
Cryorig H7
a better deal: https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482520396&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=psu
Oooh I like this build. I was looking for a wifi-enabled motherboard for cheaper for you. No dice. Consider downgrading the motherboard and using a PCIe or USB wifi adapter.
Your PSU is overpowered. A 500W will do just fine. Consider downgrading this part unless you intend to buy a second GPU and pop those in SLI in the future. That is actually an option for you.
RAM is still overpriced and word is this will continue to about January. Consider buying one stick of 8GB now and a second stick later on if you need the speed. One thing to absolutely note here is that you have 3000MHz RAM in your list, but the board only officially supports 2666. Please be careful with your RAM. I would buy some cheapo RAM, just one stick of 8GB 2666 and another around January when the prices drop. This will move your bottleneck to the RAM... but that should be the case today based on today's prices.
This build is missing storage, do you have your own? That motherboard supports NVMe storage and should probably be filled at some point in it's lifespan to get the most out of that motherboard
Insofar as the case is concerned... it's white. White works well with white parts... but you have other colors there, too. Consider a black case so that the motherboard doesn't stick out like a sore thumb in there with orange heat blocks and lettering. Or find a motherboard with white heatsinks (they exist) and grab some white RAM.
You mean like a PCIe adapter? I recently purchased this via Amazon as I was converting my older PC as a HTPC, and needed wifi+BT. I was considering this one as well. Mind you for wifi only, you could probably get something cheaper.
Finally, if you haven't completed your build yet, consider a motherboard with built-in wifi. Depending on the models, you could save some money; it also liberates a PCIe slot.
You could also get USB dongles, but those usually don't perform as well (or so I heard).
This card is frequently recommended
Hey man I got this one and its cheap on amazon! You may wanna take a look at it and it comes with bluetooth.
https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Adapter-Computer/dp/B00HF8K0O6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1466694098&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=gigabyte+wifi+card
Haven't upgraded anything other than my GPU for about 6 years now so you could say I'm a bit rusty when it comes to part picking. I'll probably go for the i5-9600k and instead of the AIO Ill probably get the Cryorig CR-H7A. Can you suggest a good OC-able motherboard that won't break the bank?
Believe http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I/ is basically what you want, connects it to a PWM slot on your motherboard, then it gets from power from a SATA connector. It will then replicate the voltage to the fans on the splitter, and use one of them for the RPM reading
For my ncase, I use a h75 on my 6600k and a h55 with a kraken g10 on my gtx 1080. It's all pretty dang quiet, not loud enough for me to comment on. I tied the h75 for my cpu to its own fan curve and the rest of the fans are on a Silverstone pwm splitter.
So my 2 case fans, 120mm h55 fan and the fan for the kraken g10 are on the same curve. When my gpu throttles up, the case fans do too. It's perfect like it is and I'm not gonna touch it.
Fans:
1 120 noctua in the bottom front slot pulling air into the kraken fan for gpu.
1 92mm slim noctua for rear of case.
2 noctua 120s for each aio cooler.
You can use a good air cooler but in my case my cpu never really gets warm enough to throttle high enough to make much noise. I like the look of the dual fans on each aio rad when you pop the side off :)
Here's the fan hub, it's really small, I tuck it into the front of case above front of gpu.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00VNW556I/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483058552&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=silverstone+pwm+fan+hub&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41yV5kjgjRL&amp;ref=plSrch
If you want to be safe, here is a list of networking stuff that's compatible with Debian. Though I wouldn't worry too much about compatibility issues with wireless cards in steamos. I got this one and it works great even though I don't think it's on the list.
Here is another option as mnp is often sold out: https://www.amazon.com/Graphics-Support-Holder-custom-Gaming/dp/B01DQK7DDW
Atlas Graphics Card Brace Support. A Video Card Holder, GPU brace, for custom Deskto Pc Gaming. a GPU stand case mod. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DQK7DDW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FBb6ybC5V7AMH
There are support brackets you can screw in to the expansion slots to reinforce the card, or standing support brackets that you can use. I'm on mobile so I'm not sure how you'll see the links as I do.
I did a ghetto fix too, using $5 fishing line but I'm not encouraging it.
if you're looking for a cleaner solution
https://www.amazon.com/Graphics-Support-Holder-custom-Gaming/dp/B01DQK7DDW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498743232&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=gpu+brace
I bought this to hold up my Zotac amp extreme 1070 which is a massive sized card with 3 fans as well. Worked really great for me other than I had to modify it a little bit but that was due to my case.
Maybe something like this?
Looks like it might be this.
I bought this one a few weeks ago https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B016K0896K/ref=pe_3034960_236394800_TE_dp_i1
its been working well, easily keeps up with my 150/150 fiber internet through a wall
TP-Link AC1300 Wireless Dual Band PCI-Express Adapter (Archer T6E) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016K0896K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jMT9yb4M2R33H
Excuse the formatting, I'm on mobile atm, I've had this one for a while now and it's delivered great speeds and most importantly it's reliable.
No but you could get a PcIE wifi card with while keeping it in your budget.
Cool beans! It's this model by the way!
Let me know if you change your mind
Yeah unfortunately there's really not a lot out there. I found this Puget one that looks like it would snap if I tried using it with my 980Ti, and this one which I think is fugly, and probably also wont fit.
GPU Brace
Whether or not your hardware's at risk depends on how much it's sagging. If you wanna fix it though, there are different kinds that you can buy like this one on Amazon. I know MSI sells one for holding up multiple GPU's, too. Alternatively, if your case can support one, you can join the cool kids club and get a vertical GPU mount. I've also seen someone do a cheap DIY solution by tying some thin fishing line to the top of the case and GPU and holding it up that way.
Probably because there are plenty of mATX cases that only have two PCI-e slots in the back of the case. It'd be unwise to exclude tiny case builders and HTPC builders from an enthusiast market.
You could try something like this if you're having sag issues: https://www.amazon.com/Graphics-Support-Holder-Gaming-Bitcoin/dp/B01DQK7DDW
Could always machine/3D print a brace similar to the card supports that you screw in with the thumb screws. https://www.amazon.com/Graphics-Support-Holder-custom-Gaming/dp/B01DQK7DDW
the S340 has a shroud you could rest the mount on with support beams.
As for the CM bracket, your best bet is to see if you return it if it doesn't work out at all for you.
This guy.
you can get one here its a decent buy, i have one my self
Looks like just one slot is taken by it.
https://www.amazon.com/Graphics-Support-Holder-custom-Gaming/dp/B01DQK7DDW
A little sag is normal and shouldn't be anything to worry about. However you could pick something like the Atlas Graphics Card Brace to prop it up, assuming you have some empty bays and clearance beneath your card. But in general, it's not necessary.
I use one of these for my 1080 works great.
https://smile.amazon.com/Graphics-Support-Holder-Gaming-Bitcoin/dp/B01DQK7DDW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525908943&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=gpu+support+bracket
This is what I am getting, and I used something very similar in the past, I also have an clear LED panel that is rgb that will go over the top of the lattice work.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DQK7DDW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DQK7DDW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505505054&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=gpu+support+bracket&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51Mq7JpxSiL&amp;ref=plSrch
GTX 1050 Ti is the best in that price range but for a few extra bucks you'd be better off with a RX 470.
If you're willing to go up to $200 you can get a GTX 1060 or RX 480 which are MUCH better cards.
I bought this one for my nephews PC, works pretty good, Skyrim is buttery smooth at 1080p.
EVGA GeForce GTX 1050 Ti SC GAMING, 4GB GDDR5, DX12 OSD Support (PXOC) Graphics Card 04G-P4-6253-KR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MF7EQJZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_Tb6.zbYGSEFY6
A 1050 will STRUGGLE at gaming at 1080p max. At least get a GTX 1050 TI (Which is hilariously cheap being only $15 more than a 1050): https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-04G-P4-6253-KR/dp/B01MF7EQJZ/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493086759&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=1050+ti
get evga 1050ti for ~9.5k 1050ti is the best in the 9-12k range.
Get this, it's pcie wireless ac with Bluetooth, it's a bargain at $33.
I use this:
https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Frequency-Expansion/dp/B00HF8K0O6
Works well for me. It used to be cheaper though. I bought it for $36.50 just over a year ago.
> but my issue is the fact that with 5ghz wifi it has a cap of 300mbps
That's because it isn't 802.11ac compatible. It clearly says it only supports up to 802.11n, it's even in the name of the card. If you have an AC router, you should get an AC adapter like this one which is only $9 more.
I have this Gigabyte and it does the job. If you're more on a budget make sure you are still getting a card that supports ac wifi. There's also some Asus and TPLINK cards under $50 that look similar.
I'm a big fan of this wifi adapter. You get bluetooth and wifi built into one. I've seen it around $25 sometimes.
That's not a sale, that's the regular price. Amazon always has it for $235 as well:
http://www.amazon.com/Intel-Core-i5-4690K-Processor-BX80646I54690K/dp/B00KPRWB9G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1412829719&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=4690k
It will be viable for high end gaming for probably at least 3-4 years, especially with overclocking now and/or down the line factored in.
If you're building in a few months, wait to buy until like a month or so before. These things tend to get cheaper as tech things do.
Also, the GPU will more often be the limiting factor in your gaming performance. Good luck with your build!
Go Intel 4000 series. 6000 series is too expensive and not much faster (definitely not worth the extra money).
CPU ($4321):
http://www.amazon.com.mx/Intel-Core-i5-4690K-Procesador-BX80646I54690K/dp/B00KPRWB9G/
Motherboard ($2499):
http://www.amazon.com.mx/Gigabyte-GA-Z97X-SLI-DualBIOS-Tarjeta-Memoria/dp/B00K2RQAQY/
8GB RAM ($691):
http://www.amazon.com.mx/Kingston-HyperX-Fury-Memoria-Non-ECC/dp/B00J8E913Q/
Plus the GTX 970 I picked above ($6659), and the power supply ($865), and Windows ($2015), and your case ($1112) means a grand total of $18,162 plus tax/import tariff.
Seems to be $209.99 at Amazon right now.
Anyone who wants my build!
I finally got the parts, I think, idk noob with comps I am
Anywhere's here is a link to all the parts :P
http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-PC3-12800-1600mHz-CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B/dp/B004QBUL1C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1418573722&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=8+gigs+ram
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IDG3PRI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0088PUEPK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
http://www.amazon.com/Intel-Core-i5-4690K-Processor-BX80646I54690K/dp/B00KPRWB9G/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1418857923&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=i5+processor
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ESETQNG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H33SFJU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003YVJJ5Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Lel enjoy nerds
Link: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0134EW7G8/
$120 is not terrible, but I got it for $100 on November 25. Might want to hold out for better prices, or other options, if you're not in a hurry.
If you are going Corsair you can save money with the LPX modules:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0143UM4TC/ref=psdc_172500_t1_B018GK2G9S
They have the same speed and timings but with a lower profile heatsink.
Is there really a difference between this Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 X 8GB) DDR4 3200 RAM "for AMD" VS this one?
With such a budget you should definitely consider getting some higher speed RAM. Higher Speed RAM is VERY important with a Ryzen CPU. I recommend having a RAM of around 3000-3200 Mhz Speed.
Take a look at this 3200 Mhz, use this RAM. This is in USD money but it translates to $254.38 AUD.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0143UM4TC/ref=twister_B01M33CGCY?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Also you do not have to get liquid metal, but if I were you I would get the Arctic MX-4. I heard it is slightly better then the Silver 5 and you can get it for cheaper if you get a smaller tube. ($8.50 AUD)
https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-MX-4-Compound-Performance-Interface/dp/B0045JCFLY/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524628483&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=arctic+mx-4
I also know you said you don't want to go for a better CPU but with such a powerful GPU I am worried your 1700X might cause a bottleneck. I'd say go for the 1800X due to its higher base clock and overall slightly improved core performance. Or just go for Intel since their CPUs are much more performance based rather then budget based which is what AMD's CPUs are.
65.99 at Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-3200MHz-Desktop-Memory/dp/B0143UM4TC
This looks solid, but you can get DDR4-3200mhzCL16 from amazon for 70 USD if you're willing to buy online.
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-3000MHz-Desktop-Memory/dp/B0143UM4TC?th=1
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0143UM4TC
People don't know how to read the title lmao. C14S is the best air cooler for the NCase.
If you get:
You will prolly only be left with like $300ish for the gpu. Maybe a 1660 ti or 2060 super? Might be ok with a SF450 instead of the SF600 depending on your gpu, that would save a bit. Could also opt to get a lower mobo since x570's main draw is the pcie 4.
Might be able to find better deals come cyber monday/black friday, but buying used would prolly help save more and you wouldn't need to wait for a sale.
I just built a system with the r5 3600 and the stock cooler has been fine even with overclocking to 4.1ghz. This depends if your case has decent airflow. Maybe don't spend the money on a cpu cooler until you test out the stock cooler and determine if its worth the cost. The r5 3600 has a pretty low tdp of 65w and doesn't need crazy coolers like the old fx cpu's
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0143UM4TC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 this ram is also pretty good for the price. I would rather have corsair than team force unless you really want the rgb
Also you might want to look at this ssd https://www.amazon.com/Silicon-Power-512GB-Gen3x4-SU512GBP34A80M28AB/dp/B07L6DKM8V/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=silicon+power+m2&qid=1574562671&sr=8-4 Around the same price but way faster speed. 3gb per second vs 500mbs. Seems like pcie ssd are only a bit more expensive than Sata ssd which is weird as they are way better speed.
The most important things with RAM (besides being the right type for your computer, such as DDR4), are: size (GB), clockspeed (mhz), and CAS timing (typically some number between 8-20).
The bigger the size the better, but these day 16GBs of ram is recommended, 32GB max for most users. The higher the clockspeed the better, but typically you get the most bang for your buck around 3000mhz or 3200mhz, over 3200 you tend to get diminishing performance returns for far higher cost; Also, make sure your motherboard supports the given clockspeed. CAS timing, this is a little complicated, but long story short the lower the timing the better, and the ram's actual performance is based on some equation of like clockspeed divided by cas timing or such. For 3200MHz ram, the typical cas timing is 16 (specifically "16, 18, 18, 18, 36", but don't worry about those other numbers, just the first one).
For good highspeed DDR4 ram that isn't crazy, I would recommend these.
Worth noting, if you have different ram in your computer running at different speeds, all of your ram will run as slow as the slowest ramstick. For that and some other reasons, it is best to keep all the ram in your PC the same type, so that they will all perform the same.
Any word on how the Corsair Vengeance IPX ram fairs?
Specifically this kit:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0143UM4TC
(Technically, 2 of these kits...)
most usb dongles suck.
The mini ones really suck.
I have had good luck with linksys and Asus AC devices
WUSB6300 worked well.
You are better off getting an internal card.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-T6E-Wireless-Low-profile/dp/B016K0896K/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1472995505&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=wifi+card+ac
tl;dr: All of those are shit , get a good one.
I also found this It may suit you better.
Here are two more options if you want.
Cheaper 1060
https://www.amazon.com/ZOTAC-GeForce-ZT-P10600B-10M-Compact-Graphics/dp/B01I5O5AP2/ref=sr_1_7?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501774761&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=1060
1050 TI
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-04G-P4-6253-KR/dp/B01MF7EQJZ/ref=sr_1_8?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501774761&amp;sr=1-8&amp;keywords=1060
I was looking at the Amazon R5 1600 w/ cooler and the Asus Prime b350 w/ Assassins Creed but would this be a much better deal or no?
whoa! the ryzen 5 1600 got cheaper.
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Cooler-YD1600BBAEBOX/dp/B06XNRQHG4/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511083530&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=ryzen+5+1600
A new R5 1600 is going for 150 new on Amazon. You might want to try lowering the price GLWS.
Yeah and someone else added in that prices were a lot higher in Canada...makes senses that seller's price is higher than someone who's selling in the US
Edit: https://www.amazon.ca/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Cooler-YD1600BBAEBOX/dp/B06XNRQHG4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?crid=NK9QO6SBK3I7&amp;keywords=ryzen+5+1600&amp;qid=1556894436&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=Ryzen+5+1&amp;sr=8-1
From amazon.fr : R5 1600 : 235 €
i5 6600k : 260 €
The only thing I would change is to upgrade the CPU to say a R5 1600, which are going pretty cheap these days. The 2200G is redundant because you have dedicated graphics, and a poor choice in general withers only 4 cores
EDIT:
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Cooler-YD1600BBAEBOX/dp/B06XNRQHG4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=r5+1600&amp;m=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&amp;qid=1571346962&amp;s=warehouse-deals&amp;sr=8-1-catcorr
Ryzen 5 1600 brand new is 129 after rebate
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Cooler-YD1600BBAEBOX/dp/B06XNRQHG4
It is not.
200GE: Microcenter ($40) vs Amazon ($58)
2200G: Microcenter ($60) vs Amazon ($78)
1600: Microcenter ($80) vs Amazon ($101)
2700: Microcenter ($1３0) vs Amazon ($1６0)
3600X: Microcenter ($200) vs Amazon ($235)
3700X: Microcenter ($330) vs Amazon ($355)
2950X: Microcenter ($600) vs Amazon ($622)
2970WX: Microcenter ($800) vs Amazon ($915)
(this list is not exhastive but rather is to give an idea of prices across the entire price range)
And Microcenter lets you save a farther $30 when bundling with a motherboard.
https://www.amazon.ca/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Cooler-YD1600BBAEBOX/dp/B06XNRQHG4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526760293&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=r5+1600
Going for 238.40 with free shipping
counterpoint
There is one used on amazon for $173 but a new one is only $187 with free shipping on both.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07B41WS48/?tag=pcp0f-20
Well it's almost as if you have to go out of your way to get 2x4GB now. Most deals are for 16GB sets and they are priced competitively.
I'm just linking a set to get an idea of the difference, but most people are going to just shell out the extra $45 for double the ram
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0134EW7G8/ref=twister_B01M33CGCY?_encoding=UTF8&amp;th=1
It's also only £110 on Amazon :/
I'm looking to pick up this CMK16GX4M2B3000C15 ram for my b350 plus motherboard however the mobo's QVL list is slightly confusing to me because it lists that specific model number twice, one that's labeled "ver.4.24" that is said to support speeds of 2933 and another that reaches only 2133.
Is it basically a lottery that I'm gonna get a set that will reach anywhere near 3000 MHz or is there a way of knowing beforehand what version I'll receive from Amazon? If I get unlucky and get a pair that can only reach say 2133 will I be able to return it?
Thank you.
$94 but here ya go
RAM should also be more like 60, a new kit of ddr4 3000 cl15 is 65
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-3000MHz-Desktop-Memory/dp/B0134EW7G8/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=2x8gb+ddr4+3000&qid=1571105166&sr=8-2
If you are talking about this RAM, Asus Strix B350-F has it in their QVL.
Oh, forgot to mention that- my RAM is this corsair vengeance- https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-3000MHz-Desktop-Memory/dp/B0134EW7G8
It seems to only want to max out at 3066Mhz.
Just found that my motherboard has a new BIOS update though, so I'll try installing that
I don't know much about RAM timings. For a Ryzen 2600x build, is it worth the extra $10 to get these c15 Corsair sticks? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0134EW7G8/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
EDIT: Mobo is the ASUS X470 ROG Strix Gaming-F
I don't plan to clock to the full 3200hhz anyway so I'm okay with 3000.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0134EW7G8/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I just ordered this with the bundle. Its on the manufacturers list for compatible ram and its a decent price/free shipping/amazon guarantee
These coupons are literally not worth it UNLESS you can't be asked to wait for online shipping or you are purchasing way above the coupon minimum.
Lets take a look at their Ryzen Line.
https://www.frys.com/product/9522092?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG 200$ for the 2600. With the promo coupon 160$
However online
https://smile.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Stealth-Cooler/dp/B07B41WS48?_encoding=UTF8&%2AVersion%2A=1&%2Aentries%2A=0&ie=UTF8&pldnNewCustomer=1&ref_=smi_ge_cnf_cnf_smi
The same cpu is 164$.
But here in lies the issue. Now the cpu is 160$ NOT 199. Therefore you have to buy something else in order to get the coupon.
Lets take a different item.
https://www.frys.com/product/9339760?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG the i7-8700k is 370$. With the Promo its 296$. Which is amazing! Only problem its out of stock pretty much everywhere
https://smile.amazon.com/Intel-i7-8700K-Desktop-Processor-Unlocked/dp/B07598VZR8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1550638139&sr=8-4&keywords=i7+9700k
online its $360. So you are getting a massive discount, provided you are well above the minimum purchase for the most part.
TLDR: Coupon is only really vauable for items with a high coupon margin or if you cant be asked for shipping on low coupon margin
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Stealth-Cooler/dp/B07B41WS48/
How about the 2600 instead while it's currently on sale for 149.99
AMD Ryzen 5 2600 Processor with Wraith Stealth Cooler - YD2600BBAFBOX https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B41WS48/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_f3-zCb34M3HGD
Same price on Amazon with infinitely better CS/Shipping
>Had some offers but none went through so dropped down a bit
Likely because it's $118 on Amazon right now? Might take more to entice people to buy from an individual since Amazon has an excellent return policy and free shipping as most people have Prime. Good luck!
Phreakwar PC Parts List
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor | $117.68 @ Amazon
Motherboard | Gigabyte B450M DS3H Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $72.98 @ Amazon
Memory | Team T-FORCE VULCAN Z 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $59.99 @ Newegg
Storage | ADATA XPG SX6000 Pro 256 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | $39.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | MSI GeForce GTX 1660 6 GB VENTUS XS OC Video Card | $198.99 @ B&H
Case | Cougar MX330-G ATX Mid Tower Case | $46.98 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Raidmax Scorpio 535 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply | $49.99 @ Amazon
| Total | $586.60
| Generated by Phreakwar PC Custom Builds |
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Stealth-Cooler/dp/B07B41WS48/ref=sxin_2_af-pna-1_5a7e756a3886fad7f36997536b05801e538ddb91?keywords=2600x&pd_rd_i=B07B41WS48&pd_rd_r=07aa6757-2f38-4d62-b26d-5e5f98f52bb0&pd_rd_w=1mqUH&pd_rd_wg=GOPqZ&pf_rd_p=3892bc23-5fa8-4a18-8855-22c23bd2e202&pf_rd_r=25WK1R9F09Z3NR64TPA6&qid=1573355313
&#x200B;
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Micro-ATX-Motherboard-B450M-V2/dp/B07NH5DBNZ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=b450m&qid=1573355533&s=electronics&sr=1-3
&#x200B;
right here bro you will find this to be a great upgrade no skips or pauses in your game play like the i5 if you want to go cheap you can get a 1600 and a b350 mobo this is my exact cpu and mobo i came from and 4 core 8 thread intel chip and this was a hell of an upgrade very with the 12 threads its very future proof at a completely reasonable price dont let intel fool you
This is good, depending what your ram speed is currently as it's not listed. But if the mobo supports a 3600mhz ram, try to find that if not 3200mhz is fine. And GPU prices will probably change once your ready to buy, so dont worry until your there.
Edit: mobo - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F85YW8R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jhb4Db6C7D55R
CPU - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B41WS48/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Nib4Db5XE552W
Total of $195, all from amazon
I don't see any comments so I'll offer my advice. Take it with a grain of salt, as I'm always browsing r/buildapcsales and definitely more of a price/performance builder.
First of all, an $800 build with a 5700 and an SFF case and PSU is unlikely. Here's my recommendations
A Ryzen 5 3600 is like double the price of a 2600 for only 15% more speed. A 2600 is already a really solid CPU for gaming. Unless he's a hardcore gamer and streamer with a hardon for ultra settings games, I'd suggest the Ryzen 5 2600 or 2600x. On Black Friday, 2600 prices will probably drop to around $90 (they've been dropping to around $100 recently). Currently on Amazon for $118.
Really good choice in LPX RAM - that specific set actually dropped to $56 the other week and will be hopefully down again on BF.
A 5700 is fine in terms of price to performance, but if you really do want to get below your budget but still want really good performance, I'd suggest jumping on this deal asap: EVGA 1660ti for $255 on sale through Best Buy (originally $320), and you can use the first time shopping code (SHOPNEW19) for $20 off your first purchase using a google account/credit card combination you haven't used before. That effectively makes the 1660ti a $230 deal, and the 5700 (usually blowers are on sale for at best $280) performs only 30% better, sure, but you're going for a budget build, and a 1660ti can already handle anything for 1080p gaming. Even if 5700 prices drop lower on Black Friday, chances are the 1660ti will still end up being on sale for a better price/performance deal. Also should be noted that 5700's that do drop below $280 are usually blowers, and these can be very, very loud. Ultimately, check out userbenchmark, sort GPUs by value, and compare to figure out what's the best fit for you.
Not a bad SSD/HDD combination, but keep your eye out on Black Friday. Chances are that 1 TB SSDs will drop below $80.
With regards to PSU, EVGA is generally a cheaper line with still very good quality SFX PSUs. Their customer support is a lot better in my experience, but others may disagree. This 450W PSU was on sale for $69 the other day. Idk if it's your first time building, but do keep in mind to not vastly overestimate the wattage PSU you need. So many people buy 650W PSUs when they really only need to use 380W, which should only warrant buying a 450 or 550W PSU. I'd recommend this wattage calculator.
Finally, if you're really trying to do a budget build, keep an eye out on r/buildapcsales. Check early and check often. There was a sale today for a super high-end 1 TB m.2 NVME SSD that was $80, but it was sold out on Amazon in under an hour. Often times, the best deals will be sold out by the time they make it to hot. r/buildapcsales and r/sffpc are the only two subreddits I ever sort by new on lol. Again, I'm not sure how experienced you are with PC building, but make sure you're buying components of the specs that you want. There are times where I've gotten over-excited and seen a $48 RAM deal, but it turned out to be only 3000 mhz instead of 3200. Then again there have also been times where I've seen RAM prices and been like "wow, that's not even that good a deal," and then realized it was $100 for 32 GB and not 16 GB.
Afterword: Keep in mind that it's probably best to wait until Black Friday if you really want to play it safe price-wise. Don't buy everything from the same place at once if you want to save money. Buy from the credible sellers with the best prices at the best times. I've been exclusively buying from links off of r/buildapcsales and ended up with a $900 SFF build capable of all the gaming I'll need to do in college. And that's after spending $220 on a sexy SM550 case.
Here
PCPartPicker Part List
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor | $327.89 @ B&H
CPU Cooler | Fractal Design Celsius S36 87.6 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $117.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | Asus PRIME X570-PRO ATX AM4 Motherboard | $236.99 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | G.Skill Trident Z Neo 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory | $134.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Corsair MP510 960 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | $135.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11 GB GAMING OC Video Card | $1129.99 @ SuperBiiz
Case | NZXT H700 ATX Mid Tower Case | $134.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA G3 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply | $110.00 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $99.95 @ Amazon
Monitor | Gigabyte AORUS AD27QD-SA 27.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor | $499.99 @ Newegg
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $2978.76
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-08-23 19:03 EDT-0400 |
You'll also want to get this fan hub.
Here is an extensive guide to building a PC, covers most of the topics of putting it together. You'll also want to enable XMP (sometimes called DOCP) in the BIOS to make sure the RAM is running at the full speed, and remember to set your monitor to 144hz in the Nvidia control panel when you've installed Windows and Drivers.
Feel free to ask any questions.
How about this? https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I
Or maybe this: https://www.nzxt.com/products/grid
Or even this: https://www.nzxt.com/product-overview/internal-usb-hub
Even more options: http://www.phanteks.com/PH-PWHUB.html
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 7 1700 3GHz 8-Core Processor | $279.49 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | Corsair - H110i 113.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $109.99 @ Amazon
Thermal Compound | Arctic Silver - 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste | $7.25 @ Amazon
Motherboard | MSI - X370 GAMING PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard | $116.16 @ Amazon
Memory | G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $238.50 @ Amazon
Storage | Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $349.99
Storage | Samsung - 960 EVO 1TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $445.41 @ Amazon
Case | Corsair - Crystal 460X RGB ATX Mid Tower Case | $131.99
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $119.99 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Corsair - SP120 RGB High Performance 52.0 CFM 120mm Fan | $19.98 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1818.75
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-03-24 12:03 EDT-0400 |
PCpartpicker didn't find all the amazon links.
Case Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Crystal-Tempered-Glass-Compact/dp/B01LA2LB7W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521906800&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=460x%2Bcorsair&amp;th=1
SSD Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Inch-Internal-MZ-76E1T0B-AM/dp/B078DPCY3T/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521906876&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=860+evo+1tb
With some pretty easy overclocking, messing around with XMP settings in BIOS and voltage, you can very easily push the CPU to 3.8 Ghz, People claim to push it to 4.0 Ghz though say it seemed to be a little unstable.
If you haven't cleaned out your PSU, you should. If it's younger than 5 years it's definitely still good. 100$ saved.
Windows can be obtained for free, only disadvantage is a small Windows 10 watermark on the lower right corner, and some of the OS customization settings are locked. It doesn't bother me, and it certainly doesn't convince me to spend 100$ for customization.
M.2 nvme SSDs are many times faster than a SATA SSD, for a boot drive you won't see a huge difference in boot time, but file transfer and such it definitely shines.
The extra fan is for an exhaust for the back of the case. You'll need a fan hub Here: https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521908068&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=fan+hub Forgot about it :/
Ive built with this case before, and it comes with a nice SSD mounting array behind the motherboard, a kinda annoying but spacious PSU basement and great air flow. tempered glass oooo
Buy zip ties. like 50. Zip ties are your friend and so is your fully modular PSU
If you want help with your CPU overclocking, you can pm me, or look up a guide on overclockers forum. Really helpful people over there.
I made it all Amazon, because of prime, which is can save you a lot of shipping. With the cheaper vendors, its cheaper for the part, but the shipping would put you over budget.
You could use fan splitters: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B46XKKQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482862919&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=fan+splitter
Or a fan hub: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00VNW556I/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482863008&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;keywords=fan+hub&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41yV5kjgjRL&amp;ref=plSrch
Change two things
If you have any more questions, feel free to ask me. Good luck and have fun!
Instead of 4x4 modules, get 2x8 modules. Here's the 2x8 3000 MHz kit: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CMK16GX4M2B3000C15-Vengeance-3000MHz-Performance/dp/B0134EW7G8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518621614&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ddr4%2B16gb&amp;th=1
Regarding the mainboard, you could invest those 20£ more in a better one, like a Killer SLI.
FYI ram has really fallen in price recently, you can pick up a kit of 16gb Corsair vengeance 3000mhz for $65 new on amazon.
link
GLWS:)
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0134EW7G8?m=A2J4AVR0SWVW8B&amp;ref_=v_sp_widget_detail_page
anyone can tell me if i should trust this?
Most things will be cheaper if you buy from the US but some things may not be significantly cheaper to justify the extra hassle of buying from overseas.
Look at this ram for example 16GB ddr4 ram on Amazon = US$75.73 (NZ$109.47) or buy in New Zealand from pcforce and it would cost $229.00. So you save ~$119.53 (depending on currency fluctuations).
However if the item if over $400 you will have to pay GST + Import fees of $50 and it is then usually cheaper to buy in New Zealand.
GPU and CPU you can buy on amazon that’s pretty basic. I’d get some really good high speed ram because ryzen loves to use that high speed ram for some reason, it runs really well on 3200+ ram.
Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3000MHz C15 Desktop Memory Kit - Black (CMK16GX4M2B3000C15) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0134EW7G8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AdsIDbVDBCJFY
Edit: 3000mhz will probably suffice.
> Noctua D15
For reference so people know what he's talking about...
This thing is a fucking monster.
Noctua NH-D15 6 heatpipe with Dual NF-A15 140mm fans https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L7UZMAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_skE2Ab2TM63S2
is this version of the noctua dh15 the correct one i should buy for a 8700k? I already bought the cryorig h7 as well but i can cancel and pay a bit more for the noctua. I am probably gonna keep its base clock or overclock just a bit not too much. Should I keep the h7 or pay more for the noctua?
Thanks in advance
Really depends on price range. The Cooler Master Hyper 212 is probably the most popular one out there and comes at a pretty nice price point. If you're looking for something more powerful and don't care about cost check out the Noctua NH-D15 which actually beats out some AIO watercoolers.
I personally avoid watercooling due to the higher chance of failure (pump dying) and possible damage to components (leaks) but some swear by it so that's upto you. (Corsair h100i is the most commonly used I believe)
Don't buy the AM4 special edition, buy the normal NH-D15.
https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAE505Y15601&amp;cm_re=NH-D15-_-35-608-045-_-Product
or here. The description is a bit confusing, but it looks to be the NH-D15.
This small guide is only for CPUs, for GPUs all you have to do is download a program, I'll link that at the bottom
--
First off, you gotta make sure your board is capable of overclocking, chances are you have a Z-series board because you have a k series processor.
K Series processor = overclockable
Z Series motherboard = overclockable
Those are just the basics, I assume you know them.
So to overclock, you're going to need to go into your BIOS, again depends on your motherboard, but while booting up you should press either, F1, F2, F10, Delete or Escape. Once you've figured out the key to get into your BIOS, you can start tweaking.
A really important thing if you're going to overclock is an aftermarket cooler, such as a Hyper 212 (Great value) or a Corsair H115i (Top of line watercooler, pricey) or an equivelent air cooler, like the Noctua NH-D15 (My personal favorite, it's what I hit my 4.9 GHz OC on)
If you already have an after market cooler, that's perfect, and you can continue. But if you don't, I highly recommend picking up a Hyper 212, it's only $25 and will get you a huge amount of performance out of your PC, until then I'd highly reccomend not OCing.
Here are the next steps, I would type them all myself, but that article summarized perfectly, and it's very recent too.
--
As for overclocking your GPU, just download your GPU's Brand-specific program, like MSI Afterburner, EVGA Precision X, etc. They really all work on any GPU, but it's nice to use the one "made" for your specific GPU.
(Note, these only work on Nvidia cards, you'll have to download completely different stuff for AMD)
I hope this helps, don't be afraid of pushing your system, just don't push it too far. Either way, the worst that would happen if you OC "too" hard is you'll BSOD on startup and you'll just have to set your multiplier/voltage lower. It won't affect the longevity of your PC in any way, Enjoy!
If you want a shroud, you could always fabricate one. 3 flat surfaces is a world of difference to painting fans. A million ways you could make a shroud and fasten it into place.
3d print as someone mentioned, cut from an existing piece of plastic or metal, re-shape from sheeting of various materials, etc etc.
One novel thing you could do is use a block of wood or a thicker plastic chunk for the top, drill holes exactly where the heat pipes come up and use those to fasten(making sure to not block any screw access holes so you'd have what looks like one access hole and a divot at the back). Hot glue or epoxy in the pipe-holes, and you don't have to worry about clips or bands or zipties to fasten it to fins(or damaging said fins).
>>Disclaimer: Fan/heatsink shrouds can mess with air-flow in counter-intuitive ways. Sometimes the engineers really do know what they were doing...
>>You can jury rig with card-stock or similar cheap materials and tape to test temps before you decide on a final design or if it's worth doing at all.
>>I've done this with case fans as well as making my own shrouds, and the temp differences can sometimes be improved, or very much decreased, depending on specifics.
____
Those covers are for a completely different size/shape heat-sink.
Cromax:
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NA-HC4-chromax-white-heatsink-NH-D15S/dp/B076575LND
For cooler:
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-heatpipe-NF-A15-140mm/dp/B00L7UZMAK
Thinner 140mm wide heatsinks (2x)
Your cooler:
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-U9S-Premium-Quality-Cooler/dp/B00TBHYYFK
A single fat 95mmx95mm heatsink.
At which point, you're modding the fuck out of them, may as well start from scratch in true maker fashion, from the ground up for your specific need.
Painting the top of the cooler would be easy and not affect performance much, if any, slide some sheets of paper in underneath the topmost layer(no need to paint the whole thing, imo) for over-spray, spray lightly, don't drench anything, let dry even if it's not complete, repeat as necessary. Ten "too thin" coats adds up to a better finish than 1 complete coat with runs and globs and dried in wrinkles....If you miss a spot, hit it next time, repeat. Patience is a god-send when painting. (All that provided you've completely removed the cooler, otherwise you'd need a lot more than just a sheet of paper for overspray.)
I wouldn't paint the fan blades. It can be done, but it can be done very badly and mess with balance or even airflow, not to mention if you ever touch them by accident or something, even when not running, say if you're wiping dust off or moving/removing to replace cooling paste, etc, it could flake off because fan blades are a bit flexible usually.
Fans are the one thing I wouldn't mod, unless you're talking about painting the exterior frame only or you seriously know what you're doing.
When I last checked, the DRP3 was cheaper than the NHD15. At least in the German Amazon.
https://www.amazon.de/quiet-BK019-Dark-Rock-CPU-K%C3%BChler/dp/B00HPX7J4K/
https://www.amazon.de/Noctua-NH-D15/dp/B00L7UZMAK
http://www.amazon.com/CRYORIG-H7-Tower-Cooler-Intel/dp/B00S7YA5FQ
https://www.amazon.com/CRYORIG-Mini-Tower-Cooler-INTEL/dp/B0177GTTB0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468642013&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=cryorig
or
https://www.amazon.com/CRYORIG-H7-Tower-Cooler-Intel/dp/B00S7YA5FQ
CPU Cooler: Buy the Cyrorig H7. It's the best in it's price point at the moment, and looks amazing. You won't need a better cooler for anything unless you want to overclock, which you really don't need to do with a CPU as good as yours.
Video Card: For 1080p@60fps, I would advise the GTX 1060 or the RX 480. Both will crush 60fps at 1080p, but if you want extra future-proofing at a higher price, go for the GTX 1070. The 1060(try for 6GB), and the RX 480(try for 8GB) are excellent cards that will run any modern game well, even at 1440p. The 1070 is even better, but only really needed if you want something like Hairworks for The Witcher 3 or intensive mods for Skyrim.
RAM:Since you have a motherboard with 4 RAM slots, get another 2 4GB sticks of your current RAM and run it in quad channel, 16GB in quad channel is amazing for modern games, although your RAM's speed isn't probably high enough nowadays.
PSU:Upgrade if you want to(I'd advise it), but I won't go advising you on any because PSU's can be so inconsistent. Just try for one above 600w that gets good reviews and few failures, unless you feel OK about your current one.
Speaking of being in stock, the H7 is back in stock at Amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/CRYORIG-Tower-Cooler-Intel-CPUs/dp/B00S7YA5FQ
Not really a sale price but compared to the crazy low availability markup some sites were charging its not bad. Keep in mind the 2 fan version is only a couple bucks more.
I would like to know this as well because the Cryorig is also on sale for a even bigger discount.
https://www.amazon.ca/Cryorig-Tower-Cooler-Intel-CPUs/dp/B00S7YA5FQ/ref=pd_sbs_147_6?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=BBHT5S0VYCNRC4CK3W4C
I went with the cryorig h7. At $35, it's one of the best value coolers (I believe it's generally the step-up from the 212 EVO). I have it sitting on my 6700k and overclocked temps cap out at like 65.
I looked at this when I was making my decision initially.
Check out the Cryorig H7
Decent machine however few bits and pieces:
Cryorig H7 is 10 bucks more but is a lot better (and much easier to install) than the 212. It'll run cooler, quieter, and generally better than the 212 for 10 bucks. Unless you're super stretched thin, I'd recommend it.
The 970 is an interesting choice but I think I'd recommend either the r9 390 if you want to buy something now (gives you 8gb of vram and great performance for $300) or if you can wait a few weeks, the rx 480 is coming out. I'd wait for benchmarks to come out but at $200 for the 4gb model and $250 for the 8gb model, it looks like a beast of a card. If you can wait, that's a great card to pickup.
I have the same parts as you. I went with this: https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487988244&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=evga+500w
With that power supply, you're really limiting yourself.
You need to get a cheap, reliable 500W PSU. Something like the EVGA W1 is your friend in this realm.
You're CPU is a real limiting factor. Ideally, you want an i5, which you can buy an i5-3550 or an i5-3570, but those will take up the rest of your budget. If you were buying a new CPU, I would recommend getting a new motherboard as well (full system upgrade to Skylake). That's too much as it's a new CPU, mobo and new DDR4 RAM.
Stick with the CPU for now and upgrade the GPU.
Head over to /r/hardwareswap and find a used 280, 280X, 290, 290X. Here's a 290X for $240, but it might be out of your price range, since you need to buy the $40 PSU first. You can find 280X for $120-$140. A 290 is around $175-$200 and a 290X is between $200-$240 on that subreddit.
With that in mind, I would recommend making a post on /r/hardwareswap looking for a 500W PSU for $25 shipped and a 290 for $170 shipped. You should find a PSU for that price, but might be hard pressed on the 290 and might need to settle for a 280X for around $140 shipped.
Last, but not least, if you get an SSD (say a 128GB), you install your Windows on it and maybe some of your games. You should notice a big speed boost from reduced loading times.
What the person said above and below. I would not recommend using just any brands for PSU. It's pretty much the foundation of your whole PSU. You don't want your whole system to go haywire because of your PSU.
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-CX500-Supply-Bronze-Certified/dp/B0092ML0MY
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Power-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=pd_lpo_147_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=8B9TGAJJPZAK7TDGF3EJ
I had the 500 PSU EVGA. I recently upgraded 3 months ago. It's wonderful!
Get a decent PSU, at least 500w. Look at the specifications to make sure it has a single 12-volt rail, then make sure it has at least 40A on that rail.
This one is pretty cheap and can do up to 40A on the 12v rail, even though it doesn't say it on amazon.
You can get a "500w" power supply for as cheap as $20 (e.g. Logisys and cheap Thermaltake) but I honestly don't trust those. This is about as cheap as I'd be willing to go.
Sometimes the Corsair CX500 goes on sale for $20, which is awesome at that price. Unfortunately, it's $65 at the moment. I'd trust it more than the EVGA, but I don't think it really justifies the price difference.
lol @ XBone. Sounds like the name of a villain in a 90s action movie.
Here's the deal. You can go the console route, and that's fine. But you're going to spend a lot more money in the long run.
You buy a PS4, an xbox one, a switch, whatever. Call it $400. OK. Cool. You buy games for it. $40, $30, $50. Sweet. Controllers. $50 $50 $50... Shit it's getting expensive. New games come out. Why the fuck are they $60 a piece? Holy shit. You wait a while. Jesus they only went down to $55? FFFFFFUUUUUU I wanna playyyyyyy.... Why aren't there more games and cheaper games? Granted, you do have the nice option to buy classic games on PSN and for Switch. Ugh.....fine, I'll shell out for Overwatch. Fine. I'll shell out for Destiny 2. Fuuuuck that was like $120. What....what the fuck is this? PS5? Nintendo Switch2?
ARE YOU FUCKING KIDDING ME?
BUT. Let me play out that scenario for you on a PC.
You get:
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Desktop-Processor-Stealth-YD1200BBAEBOX/dp/B0741DN383/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504013256&amp;sr=1-1-spons&amp;keywords=ryzen+3&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Motherboard-B350M-GAMING-PRO/dp/B06X3Y7KB5/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B06X3Y7KB5&amp;pd_rd_r=WQY4T7FSD0XZNMJMAZTA&amp;pd_rd_w=9hbxY&amp;pd_rd_wg=5G67w&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=WQY4T7FSD0XZNMJMAZTA
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-2400MHz-Memory-Black/dp/B01ARHBBPS/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504015184&amp;sr=1-3-fkmr2&amp;keywords=corsair+vengeance+ddr4+8gb+1+stick
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=pd_sim_147_7?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00H33SFJU&amp;pd_rd_r=34J30Q25N27HSGZ37PBB&amp;pd_rd_w=zW44M&amp;pd_rd_wg=1NEwM&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=34J30Q25N27HSGZ37PBB
https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Deskptop-1Terabyte-5400-7200RPM-Applications/dp/B06XR3LT6W/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504013651&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=wd+blue+hard+drive
https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-MicroATX-Tower-Computer-RANGER-M/dp/B006BCK7RM/ref=sr_1_20?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504013530&amp;sr=1-20&amp;keywords=computer+case
https://www.amazon.com/%D0%9Cicrosoft-Windows-Home-Disc-Package/dp/B0756F3VPT/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504013612&amp;sr=1-1-spons&amp;keywords=windows+10+home+oem&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/ZOTAC-DisplayPort-Dual-Link-Graphics-ZT-P10500A-10L/dp/B01M4MIU94/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504014904&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=gt+1050
Total cost: $570 US, or roughly what you'd spend on your console and a few controllers.
BUT, now you have the entire library of all the computer games ever made at your disposal. Not to mention that, but you've got emulators to play all those classics that you could have bought on the PSN/Switch.
And instead of paying $60 every time a new game comes out, you look at what came out about 6 months ago. You put it on your steam wishlist. You get an email someday soon that says "an item on your wishlist is on sale."
Oh holy shit. Doom is $16. Holy fuck, it's the steam summer sale. Games are 75% off, 80% off....they're basically giving them away.
Then you sign up for Humble Bundle.
Holy shit. You can get Alien Isolation for $5.
These are 5 star games we're talking here. Not to mention you get like 10 no names to go with it. Hell, you're probably going to spend hours playing some of those.
Pretty soon you've got 100+ games that you may have spent a few hundred dollars on. Things are great, but you decide hey, I would LIKE to have a little more FPS on these. So you order yourself a new GT 1080, and sell your 1050 on ebay making back about $50. Later on down the line you decide to upgrade the processory, maybe add a stick of ram later. Now you got a stew goin. But you don't have to, that rig will play almost anything (though possibly on lower visual settings)
PC is just more budget friendly in my opinion. You never have to just throw the whole thing away and get a new one. You can always replace components and upgrade things individually. There's never new platforms to learn, get used to. You can always use your same old controller, and you can always play your old games. In my view, buying consoles is basically throwing away money because you have to buy so much hardware EVERY TIME they decide to release a new console.
There's give and take to it. I just like the stability and deep discounts I get from Steam, GOG, and Humble Bundle. I wouldn't even game if it wasn't this cheap.
Here you go
In the top right corner of your linked page, PCPartPicker gives a rough estimation of 363W. For under £50 I'd get this.
Yeah, this one is close to twice the price, but you need a good power supply for your build.
I haven’t played FO4 with a PS4 controller on PC, but I use THIS for my DualShock 4 for all my PC games and it works amazing. I also use DS4Windows as the software.
I think I bought my card for $25 on eBay so I know you an find it cheaper than what’s in the link :)
easier and cheaper just to get a USB one.
But..., here's one from gigabyte: https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Adapter-Computer/dp/B00HF8K0O6
> Is now the right time to buy a PC or should I wait because new cards are coming out and they will lead to price drops? But how long until those price drops will even come into effect?
I would wait slightly, prices of the older cards will not fall (in the used market they will. But new cards, not so much.) so just wait for the price gouging of the new cards to stop and pick up one of those.
> Also, when building a PC what parts do I need to connect to Internet/Wi-Fi? A wireless network adapter? Or do motherboards come equipped with being able to connect to WiFi? And what do you look for when choosing a wireless network adapter if you need them?
Some motherboards do come with Wi-FI adapters built in, but these are typically in a price range that it's not worth it to most of us. If wifi if your only choice your best bet is to get a PCI express Wifi adapter. Something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Adapter-Computer/dp/B00HF8K0O6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1466008737&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=pci+express+ac+wifi
When you're shopping just make sure the adapter supports the best wifi standard your home router/AP does (AC, N, etc)
> Finally, when looking at Graphics cards, e.g. the GeForce GTX 1070, I saw they were sold by various manufacturers like EVGA, Zotac, MSI etc. Does it matter which manufacturer you buy from (apart from price differences)? Does it affect performance or anything of the card or can I just relax and buy from any company?
There are differences in each of the cards from the companies. You will want to read reviews for the cards you may be interested in. One card may run quieter than the others, one may have higher clocks and therefor perform better.
You need a PCIe card w/ Antenna. https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Frequency-Expansion/dp/B00HF8K0O6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1541388221&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=gigabyte+wifi+card&amp;refinements=p_n_condition-type%3A6461716011
https://www.amazon.ca/Gigabyte-Bluetooth-Expansion-Components-GC-WB867D-I/dp/B00HF8K0O6
I think its fine from what i know about pc building. But if you want faster boot times then think about getting a ssd and if you want to over clock think about getting a better cpu cooler. The stock Ryzen 3 cooler is not bad but if you want to get some good overclock on it think about getting a after market cooler. This is one i found on amazon:https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-RR-212E-20PK-R2-120mm/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505260014&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=CPU+cooler Also if you want a water cooled one you need to see if your case supports water cooling.
On a stock CPU, you don't need a watercooler at all. Even the stock cooler will do perfectly fine on stock speeds. However, you should probably consider overclocking your CPU, as you have a K-series, which is unlocked. Just make sure you have a supported (re: Z170) motherboard.
Now for the cooler; if you aren't planning on overclocking, just use your stock cooler. If you don't have it, I'd recommend the Hyper 212 EVO, as it's cheap and does the job. Also gives you ample headroom for moderate overclocking in the future. If you are really planning on overclocking, I'd actually recommend the H100i v2, as it's only $10 more, but provides much better cooling performance because it's a 240mm rad. You should get 4+ Ghz easy on that cooler. >= 4.5 Ghz really depends on the CPU, or the "silicon lottery" as they say.
Link to H100i V2: http://pcpartpicker.com/product/CrDzK8/corsair-cpu-cooler-cw9060025ww
Link to Hyper 212 EVO: https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI
I bought several <$50 items:
This keyboard is a great deal for a back lighted mechanical one.
https://www.amazon.com/Velocifire-Mechanical-Keyboard-Illuminated-Anti-ghosting/dp/B01M0QEYR4/
Also this any of these refurbished mouses, I specifically got one of the M65:
http://www.corsair.com/en-us/certified-refurb?c=mice
If things are running hot in the CPU, you could also get a Hyper Evo 212.
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI
Hope this helps!
Fortunately not needed. I did a lot of temp testing while setting it up, and 5 of these babies (2 in front, 2 in back, 1 on top) and this thing are enough to keep anything from getting to 60C. Surprisingly quiet too.
Next machine I will probably opt for water though.
Nope, I added https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005O65JXI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I personally don't have an extra one. But just advice you can grab one for $23 on amazon used if that's within your budget. http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B005O65JXI/
The Z77 board should be completely compatible with your CPU the question is HP and other manufacturer have been known ro glue or even sodder CPUs to the boards. Don't know if they still do but they've done it in the past. While your at it get a after market cooler ideally this one http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005O65JXI/ref=pd_aw_sbs_1?pi=SY115&amp;amp;simLd=1 it cools the best for almost any price point including lower end Water Cooling systems. And it's one of the quietest. Good luck
I've never heard of edimax but i know from experience tp link makes great wifi adapters for the money. Also trash the usb adapter and get a real card with antennaes.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-PCI-Express-Adapter-TL-WDN4800/dp/B007GMPZ0A/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511749543&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=tp+link+wifi+adapter
or if you can't afford that i have this one and its great.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-PCI-Express-Adapter-TL-WN881ND/dp/B0079XWMEI/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511749543&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=tp+link+wifi+adapter
generally speaking... usb wifi dongle suck. (range)
If you can afford it, get a pci card instead.
TP-Link TL-WN881ND 802.11b/g/n $21CAD
if you want to future proof....
D-Link DWA-582 802.11a/b/g/n/ac $40CAD
I use hostapd with a TPLink PCI-Express card on one of servers (Debian) for my office wireless network. This is, of course, with routing enabled. Performance has been stellar. The machine in question has a Sandy-Bridge Xeon, and does a bunch of other things as well including being a KVM host.
lspci:
01:00.0 Network controller: Atheros Communications Inc. AR9287 Wireless Network Adapter (PCI-Express) (rev 01)
cat /etc/hostapd/hostapd.conf:
interface=wlan0
driver=nl80211
ssid=(redacted)
channel=1
hw_mode=g
wme_enabled=1
ieee80211n=1
ht_capab=[HT40+][SHORT-GI-40][DSSS_CCK-40]
macaddr_acl=0
auth_algs=1
ignore_broadcast_ssid=0
wpa=2
wpa_passphrase=(redacted)
wpa_key_mgmt=WPA-PSK
rsn_pairwise=CCMP
There's also this delightful script that sits in /etc/init.d/hostapd and which enables hostapd to run flawlessly as a system service. I find it extremely valuable to be able to be able to configure and manage my wireless AP in exactly the same way that I would any other Linux-based service.
If it is a desktop I am going to suggest an internal card if you have open slots. I have found that USB adapters are unreliable. And again this is just my experience, I have had two of them overheat on me with heavy use. EX. Downloading something while streaming YouTube has caused mine to overheat and be unrecognizable by the system.
I would suggest something like this.
Oh and make sure you have either a PCIe or a PCI slot and the corresponding card for it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0079XWMEI/
You can get any motherboard without WiFi and put a pci-e wireless card into it. Something like this one http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN881ND-Wireless-Express-Low-profile/dp/B0079XWMEI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452122647&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=wireless+card
A usb controller card, you might have enough ports on your motherboard but if it's all handled by one controller it can't run 3 sensors + headset.
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM
Not sure about best, but this is the one Oculus recommend, I have been using it with no issues.
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM
Edit: see other comments, some say these cards are flaky or even catch fire in one case. It works for me, but some people prefer the Startech cards, they are just more expensive.
Are you sure it's running out of power and not usb bandwidth?
If it's bandwidth you might want to split the devices between usb controllers, and possibly connect some of the cameras to usb 2, instead.
Computers tend to have 2 accessible usb controllers - one on the back and one on the front (which are shared by all of the ports attached to them). Each can only support a maximum amount of bandwidth at once. If the cameras are plugged into usb 2 ports they'll run in low data mode and use significantly less, so you may want to plug one of your cameras into a usb 2 port instead, or perhaps attach the headset or a camera onto a front port to spread the load.
The only other cure for bandwidth issues to buy a usb extender card (Oculus officially recommend this one). Buying a hub won't help, as they're still coming from the same controller on your machine and you still have the same bandwidth limits.
Alternatively, if it is just power, then yeah - you'll need a powered hub.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130841 mobo
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117402 processor
http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 USB 3.0 PCI-E card
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231878 RAM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487088&amp;cm_re=gtx_970-_-14-487-088-_-Product Graphics card
This one is recommended by Oculus :) http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM
I had this same issue -- picked up an X52 Pro a couple weeks ago and it wouldn't play nice with my intel controllers & Windows 7. I'd read that you could use W10's generic drivers but...as we've also read around these parts, Oculus recommends keeping your drivers up to date.
In the end, I bit the bullet and bought one of these. I already had plenty of Oculus certified USB 3 ports but...now I have more! And this card was recommended by them anyway.
I did eventually end up upgrading to W10 anyway last week. It runs quite well and gave me some time to work out any kinks before my Rift arrives. Some people have had a little trouble using the upgrade option instead of a clean install, but mine went fine.
> Highpoint 1144D
This one? https://www.amazon.com/HighPoint-4-Port-PCI-Express-RocketU-1144D/dp/B015CQ8DCS
Then why do they recommend this cheaper USB cards in their official blog post as well?
$24 vs $109 is quiet a big difference and I feel like there shouldn't really be a need to buy another extra hardware besides the extra camera (and possibly extension cables) to get roomscale. This is making me furious!
You have USB hardware made by VIA, and that's incompatible. You'll need to buy an addon PCI board with USB-3 ports on it.
Something like this - I would suggest the type that has a power plug, so it doesn't draw power for the USB devices through the PCI slot, since not all motherboards live perfectly up to the standards for power requirements.
The board you choose must also have a chipset that is approved by Oculus. Looking at their homepage, it has to use the "Fresco Logic FL1100EX chipset."
Actually, on their support page they link specifically to a card that is approved.
----
One more thing - notice the choice of words. "The Nvidia GTX 960 meets or exceeds our inimum system requirements."
That means that if it was any slower, it couldn't run at all - but it doesn't meet their recommended requirements, and it's nowhere near their optimal requirements.
So it's not going to run optimally, or even like recommended.
Ah I see. Yeah mine are both using usb 3.0.
"Using USB 2.0 ports degrades tracking reliability between the headset and sensor." According to Oculus support anyway.
But here's the link to the card they recommend
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM
Its an USB issue. I know, you have probably tried different usb ports ranging from 2.0 to 3.0. You would switch it and it would work just fine for a few days then you are back to reseating the hdmi plug.
There are 2 solutions:
Now option 2 should not work but it does. I had the same exact problem as you. I tried everything and it got to the point the only other option was buying a usb 3.0 pci e card. However, I had option 2 laying around and realized I needed more usb 3.0 ports for my other stuff so I figured why not try my rift. Its been 3 months and I havent had to reseat the hdmi cord or try different usb ports.
Only issues i have now is what looks like white static whenever it is dark in the game or loading something, but it is all gone when the game starts. Also, sound. My rift sound will cut off after 30 minutes of playing so I have to re-enable it via sound manager.
Hope this helps because I know how frustrating it was.
Not from your motherboard, from the power supply, with the included cables/adapters. There are pictures illustrating how to plug it in on the Amazon product page here.
you'll want one of these
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM
What you linked to is a USB Hub, which is not recommended. You'll want an actual USB Expansion Card, like this one.
Did you resolve this? I'm having the exact same poblem. Dual vibration works fine in Superhot.
I'm on Rift CV1. Mobo is MSI B450 Tomahawk Max.
Edit:
I finally solved the problem by installing an internal PCIe USB extension card. I went for the Inateck one that Oculus recommends. Don't forget to plug in the SATA power cable or it won't work. Had me scratching my head for a bit.
Other devices don't try to max out a USB port. It's unlikely you plugged anything into your motherboard that is as demanding as a VR headset and Oculus is general seems to try to max out the port to the spec limit.
As Phalex said, you likely need to buy a USB expansion card to use your Rift. I have the one he's talking about and it works great. -- https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ -- this card will guarantee that your headset gets the data bandwidth and power it needs to operate.
If that doesn't work then you probably have a defective headset.
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM
Get this one
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481911849&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=inateck+4+port+usb
It is the recommended card and chipset
Don't be so sad my friend. Performance hasn't increased that much over the past couple of generations of Intel cpu's since Sandy Bridge. Yes a 4690K is an decent upgrade but overall 2500K is not a bad CPU at all. It's still better than almost every AMD CPU in many gaming scenarios.
My recommendation to you is to upgrade your GPU to GTX 970 or similar for amazing value, and then buy an aftermarket cooler for your cpu, so you can overclock your CPU to hefty speeds. Something like the Thermalright True Spirit 140 Power is incredible good for the size and prize. Link to Amazon. Or the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO is also very capable for overclocking, though the Thermalright True Spirit 140 power is still quite a bit better.
Here are some video tutorials for overclocking the i5 2500K if you are new to this. It's not as hard as many people think. You don't have to overclock it to extremes, but maybe just a slight overclock like 4.2 or 4.3 GHz with slight voltage increase should be enough and give a decent boost. This small of an overclock might not even require an aftermarket CPU cooler(you can try), but I would recommend it anyways since it is less noisy than the stock cooler, and you can maybe use it for your next CPU too for overclocking.
This will give you a lot of performance increase combined with a GTX 970 upgrade. Though overclocking might not be necessary at first, unless you notice some performance issues.
If you don't have a ton of data, you can easily use only 1TB of HDD.
Also, the 212 Evo+ is a good cooler :)
For $2,000, you can score a pretty excellent VR dev rig.
If you're already using UE4, and you've got got your DK1, you're probably relatively familiar with the basic demands— The faster your CPU, the faster everything compiles, and more ability you have to get things done simultaneously outside your IDE. RAM is a similar story, as well letting you play with more polys and textures in whatever modeling program you use. For the GPU, various Oculus people have dropped the hint that you pretty much want a GTX 770 as a baseline for advanced apps [source]. That's consistent with what benchmarks have had to say about what it'll take to drive the (probably) 1440p CV1.
With regards to the OS, there are very few reasons to use Windows 7. You can read some reddit discussions about that here or here, but the moral of the story is that everything works better on 8 except maybe the layout, which you can change.
$2,000 is a good spot— it's pretty much where the bang-for-buck curve becomes a cliff. Here's about how that build looks:
Full-Featured VR Kit
| part | link | | price |
|:-|:-|:-|:-|
|cpu|Intel Core i7-4770K Quad-Core Desktop Processor (3.5 GHz, 8 MB Cache, Intel HD graphics, BX80646I74770K)|amazon|$299.99|
|video card|EVGA GeForce GTX780 SuperClocked w/EVGA ACX Cooler 3GB GDDR5 384bit, DVI-I, DVI-D, HDMI,DP, SLI Ready (03G-P4-2784-KR)|amazon|$509.99|
|ram|G.SKILL Value 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-1600C11D-16GNT|newegg|$127.99|
|motherboard|ASRock Z87 PRO3 LGA 1150 Intel Z87 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard|newegg|$94.99|
|power supply|CORSAIR RM Series RM750 750W ATX12V v2.31 and EPS 2.92 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Full Modular Active PFC Power Supply|newegg|$129.99|
|case|Corsair Carbide Series Black 400R Mid Tower Computer Case (CC-9011011-WW)|amazon|$79.99|
|ssd|Crucial M500 240GB SATA 2.5" 7mm (with 9.5mm adapter) Internal Solid State Drive CT240M500SSD1|newegg|$114.99|
|hard drive|Western Digital WD10EZEX 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive, Blue - OEM|newegg|$59.99|
|disc drive|Lite-On Super AllWrite 24X SATA DVD+/-RW Dual Layer Drive - Bulk - IHAS124-04 (Black)|amazon|$20.65|
|operating system|Windows 8.1 System Builder OEM DVD 64-Bit|amazon|$92.00|
|fans|Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120mm PWM Fan (RR-212E-20PK-R2)|amazon|$32.00|
|monitor|LG IPS234V-PN Black 23" 14ms (GTG) HDMI Widescreen LED Backlight LCD Monitor IPS 250 cd/m2 5,000,000:1x2|newegg|$299.98|
|||||
| |See current build price with shipping and tax| total | $1862.55|
Learn more and customize this build at kit.computer.
This leaves you with wiggle-room, to make a couple decisions based on your uses and preferences. You could bump one of the monitors up to 27" 1440p, you could bump the very capable GTX 780 up to a 780 Ti, you could move up to 32GB of RAM, increase the size of the SSD, or just pocket the change. It really depends on what apps you're trying to produce, and what your workflow looks like— if it were me, I'd lean towards the 1440p screen, just for workflow reasons.
If you have any questions (or anything to teach me), let me know!
That depends on whether or not you want to OC. I personally have a pretty large overclock (1 GHz) on my i5-3570k, and it's really helped my processor stay competitive. With a Hyper 212 Evo, you can get a great overclock, especially considering it's only $30.
Wow, I'm literally about to order the same build. I'm getting a H100i cpu cooler, the Maximus VI Hero instead of the Z87 pro mobo, and a Seagate Barracuda 1TB instead of a Caviar Blue 1TB HD. I'm also getting the red/black version to match my mobo. Everything else is the same even the same brand GTX 770. Please let me know how it runs, especially how quiet it is.
You have a lot of fans and an overclockable CPU. I would recommend you get an aftermarket CPU cooler to take advantage of these features. As I said above, I'm gonna try the Corsair H100i, but it is pretty expensive. Some less expensive air coolers that I think would look good in this build are
[Phanteks TC12DX](http://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-U-Type-Heat-Sink-Cooler-PH-TC12DX_BK/dp/B00AXUTKEE/ref=sr_1_10? fs=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1393992252&sr=1-10&keywords=phanteks+ph-tc14pe) for $60 on [sale for $40 + shipping] (http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=7616870) right now
Enermax ETS-T40 for $50 (also has leds on the stock fans)
And of course, the [Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo] (http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1393992767&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=hyper+212+evo) for $35 which doesn't match as well but is cheap.
Great job on cable management (it's supposedly easy in this case) and I agree that it need a light on the inside. Let me know what light you end up getting because now I want one too.
I had my old 8320 at 4.5 ghz on a Hyper 212 evo and it was certainly worth it over the stock clocks, but definitely get a better cooler, the stock one cannot handle overclocking.
I recommend to just stick with the stock cooler and save a few bucks, but if you really want an after market cooler the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO should work great.
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo
According to this an i7 average temp is 50-65c
http://www.computerhope.com/issues/ch000687.htm
My suggestion, clean out your case all the way, clean and reapply thermal past to the heat sink. Also if you want to I have had fantastic results with this fan heats sink combo.
http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI
For $30 you can get the legendary Cooler Master EVO 212
http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1457118666&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=cpu+cooler
Its a beast of a cooler for the price
Or id recommend the Arctic Cooling i30
http://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Freezer-i30-Extreme-Cooler/dp/B006T0H5J4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1457118855&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=arctic+cooling+i30
both coolers i have used are they are really good for the price.
Agreed; was just funny how Strawberry 644 told OP it would be nice but simultaneously useless ;)
In any case, this would be affordable and complement the lighted theme:
Heatsink: Cooler Master Hyper 212
Fans for Heatsink (x2): Corsair Air Series AF120
I have the same (except Red LEDs since it matches my rig more so) and it looks amazing (and of course temps are down).
Edit: Crappy picture of mine
CPU: Intel i7 6700K
Heatsink:CoolMaster Hyper 212 Evo
Motherboard: MSI B250
RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB Series
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOA 850 P2
Video Card: ASUS ROG-STRIX-GTX1080
Storage: WD Black 1TB
Extra Performance for OS: WD Blue 250GB SSD
I mean the product description page is for the 212 evo, that is correct but if you go to the page with the prices and who is selling it (the link below)
https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/offer-listing/B005O65JXI/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new
You can see is only 6 people, 3rd party sellers. None are amazon themselfes
well, back to topic;
Do you absolutely must include Corsair h100i in your build ? i think you can save some by using air cooler and use the budget saved from that for Graphic card or CPU.
For example, this 212 Evo here.
This is going to be a much better solution https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-RR-212E-20PK-R2-120mm/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493346642&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=cpu+cooler
Something like this - http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN881ND-Wireless-Express-Low-profile/dp/B0079XWMEI
is probably better and more reliable/stable for long term use and for gaming, than a USB solution. Just double check you have a free pcie expansion slot.
I use the (TP-LINK TL-WN881ND)[www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0079XWMEI] and the (Edimax EW-7811Un)[www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY]. I never had any problem with them
If you want to upgrade something, your CPU is the biggest upgrade. But that would require a new motherboard and ram as well. So if you're happy with your current performance and don't get framerates drops just keep your current build.
>I don't have wireless and that is one thing I know I want to add. I suppose my question is: are any of the specs noticeably outdated and need to be upgraded?
You should be able to add a wireless card to your PC no problem, you just need an open PCIe slot.
Example: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0079XWMEI/ref=mp_s_a_1_4/140-0179609-2447108?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521508356&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=pcie+wireless+card&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=415vrQMpdJL&amp;ref=plSrch
If you can plug in using a wire, I recommend doing so, as it is faster and more stable. You can pick your color/length for solid price here.
If you're in a situation where you can't plug into your router/modem, then wifi is your next choice. Something like this will work just fine, but if you're comfortable attaching a card to your motherboard, this will provide a stronger and more reliable experience.
That seems like a decent card honestly, try updating your drivers and router firmware before you buy a new one. Note that your neighbors setting up their own routers can impact your signal quality, so consider changing what channel your router uses. Microwave ovens and blenders also destroy 2.4 GHz communications while they're on, so keep that in mind.
Here's the one I use. It's served me well over the past year or so, except when my ISP set me up with a bizarre router firmware that only worked with certain, seemingly randomly-selected cards.
With the modeling and simulations, have you looked at 16GB of ram? I think it would still fit within your budget with that addition unless you already know the capabilities of your work programs.
Also, I highly recommend the TP-Link TL-WDN4800 over any other pci-e wi-fi card. I have two, in my w8.1 desktop and linux htpc, that do a fantastic job. The extra cost was definitely worth it in that category for good reception (three antennas) and great speed.
TP-Link Wireless Dual Band PCI Express Adapter (TL-WDN4800) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007GMPZ0A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aykmzbF08BGG1
I use this one. Works perfectly. Never had a signal drop
The CPU cooler on the Ryzen 1400 is actually pretty good. It would be more beneficial to get a 120/240 ssd instead. The 1060 6GB is still pretty over priced right now because of mining so it might be worth waiting. And [something] (https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Express-Adapter-TL-WDN4800/dp/B007GMPZ0A) like this would be good for your wifi card.
Only a few things to look for when you're looking for a wireless card:
I have a TP-Link TL-WDN4800. Worked straight out of the box and haven't had an issues with connecting or speed throttles. No need to deal with any external antenna wires either.
edit: formatting
I'm using this. Not a lot of money at all.
I'm paying for 100down/10up and it seems to work pretty well: http://www.speedtest.net/my-result/5407325723
This isn't actually true. The component cable that it comes with is compatible with composite cables. I can record SNES gameplay with just the component cable by placing the yellow end in the red video slot.
It also upscales at a faster rate then my television does, meaning I get less lag playing through my Elgato then if my SNES was just connected to my HD television. A major plus, if you don't happen to have a CRT tv.
EDIT: Here is the amazon page for what you are looking for Draven_You_Crazy
http://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Capture-PlayStation-Recorder-10025010/dp/B00840353W
Something like this?
http://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Capture-PlayStation-Recorder-10025010/dp/B00840353W
Console Capture Cards
PC Recording Software
All of the programs listed, except for FRAPS can do multitrack recording. Dxtory can actually give you the seprate tracks without another program, but MSI either requires another program to get them; except if your editing program can do it by itself (Ex. Sony Vegas)
Editing Programs
Audio
Video
Photo (Thumbnails)
From what I've seen, an Elgato such as this one seems like a good choice. Don't have a clue about capturing Melee though.
Edit: Oh yeah I suppose I saw a Avermedia card that could do both HDMI and component inputs, anyone know anything about that?
I feel like I should maybe create a guide or something in the future for how to properly record a P:M game.
I noticed you're looking at a relatively cheap Capture Card. The one you're looking at is generally considered to have poor quality and can only output a maximum of 480i. The only Capture Card I've used (and still own) in that price range is this. It can output a maximum of 480p (which is the highest P:M will go on a Wii anyway) and works really well with VirtualDub (the software you will be using). You'll also want to pick up an S-Video Cable for the Wii so the video quality is decent.
Some people will recommend that you buy a Dazzle and while a Dazzle is decent, I'd recommend staying away from it due to the massive headaches a Dazzle Recorder can bring upon you. Some models have issues with sound, some only output 480i (not nearly as good as 480p) etc.
The next step is to download Software which will capture the game that is being played. I'd highly recommend VirtualDub as it will work with the video card listed above and can also function as a video editor afterwards.
All videos that are recorded will need to have lossless codec that they go through in order to decrease the original file size. This can take a 1-hour game original video from being 500gb to 100gb. Basically, if you record without one, you'll eat up your hard drive space fast. The best (atm) for codecs that don't lose any quality is HuffYuv. The video quality will be near 1:1 as you see on the TV while also not having a gigantic file size. You can also use Xvid if you want.
Now you'll want to edit your video. Simply use VirtualDub with simple edits. Once you have your final video, you'll want to encode the file by using a product called MeGUI. It'll encode the file into x264 and NeroAAC using a video editing language AviSynth. It's all pretty easy to use.
If you want to record on your TV and computer at the same time, it'll be a little bit of a headache. Your best bet is to buy splitters and AV female to female adapters. It may look like a mess when you finally get it setup, but it'll still have no lag (or less than 1 frame).
If you have anymore questions, feel free to ask. There are some really good tutorials and guides over at Something Awful LP Wiki. Even though it's for Lets Plays, it'll still be able to help you since you're trying to effectively do the same thing.
EDIT: You could also drop money on an Elgato HD Game Capture, but they're really expensive. The quality is second-to-none though.
You need a capture device like this
Not optimal, but maybe live stream via webcam? I've thought about doing that to stream 3DS games since 3DS XL capture cards are pretty expensive. Your computer doesn't really need to be all that beefy to stream I don't think, the only thing you need to run is something like OBS or XSplit to stream to Hitbox or Twitch.
If you have the means (not sure if capabilities means lack of funds), Elgato makes a capture device that's USB that would probably work for you. The device itself handles most of the work IIRC, so I don't think the PC has to do much. It's something you could look into, and it also comes with a cable that can handle the encrypted HD signal that the PS3 uses. It also gets its power from the USB and doesn't require an AC adapter/plug space on your surge strip. If you're interested in looking into it, here it is.
I'd recommend doing all of this by streaming over Twitch. That way she'll be able to watch your stream from any of her devices as they all have the Twitch app (and alternatives like Pocket Plays). This will make things much easier for what you want to accomplish.
The software you'd use to stream all of this from an external capture card would be OBS, Open Source Broadcaster (free).
And finally, you have a variety of choices as to which hardware you could use to do this all with. Here are a few choices to take a look at and depending on your price range:
If I had to go with an external capture card, I'd either go with the AVerMedia Live Gamer Extreme or Elgato Game Capture HD60 S. So read up on these and see what the pros and cons of each are.
Now as far as latency between you and her, that will all depend on your upstream bandwidth for your internet connection as well as what video resolution and fps you'd be streaming at. But in normal/good scenarios, this will be 10-20 seconds.
It depends which card you are buying , there are cheap ones that cost just 30$.Of course their quality isn´t the greatest
Many streamers have one of those 2 :
http://www.amazon.com/AVerMedia-Portable-Capture-Xbox360-60Mbps/dp/B00B2IZ3B0/ref=zg_bs_284824_6
http://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Capture-PlayStation-Definition-Recorder/dp/B00840353W/ref=zg_bs_284824_1
-> you don´t need a crazy expensive PC either. The most important thing is your upload speed though.
it looks like PS4 has a remote play feature which might be easier and shouldn't require any extra hardware, http://www.pcadvisor.co.uk/how-to/game/how-play-ps4-on-pc-using-pc-remote-play-playstation-now-streaming-2016-3630864/
otherwise i've heard good about the elgato capture card, https://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Systems-Capture-Definition-Recorder/dp/B00840353W
if you go with streaming i highly recommend using a wired ethernet connection for both the playstation and laptop
Elgato Game Capture HD
We use capture cards, they're video capture devices that you either install into a desktop computer(Like the Avermedia LiveGamer HD ) or get a USB one(Such as the Elgato Gamecapture HD ). These devices hook directly into the video output of your WiiU and can record it using software on your computer.
Sm4sh replay files aren't actually video, this is why the WiiU can save so many of them, otherwise the video files would be a decent size. They're basically large text files that tell the game engine what button to press at what time.
The two are mutually exclusive.
Do you have a decently-spec'd PC with USB 3.0? If so, I recommend:
http://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Capture-PlayStation-Recorder-10025010/dp/B00840353W/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1369116560&amp;sr=8-1-spell&amp;keywords=el+gato+gamne+capoture
That's the one I use. It works really well, has some great options, provides nice, clean 1080p video, but it's pretty rough on system resources.
http://youtu.be/eNxpfE_J6jI
That's a video I took with the card. Make sure to change the quality selection to 1080p.
Any capture card
If I were you, I'd just spend an extra $5 and get an Elgato. Approx. 1.5 sec delay but has lagless HDMI passthrough (including conversion from component/composite to HDMI). Works with everything on the market nowadays.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00840353W?cache=5de956f824650dc25724bf6768d9dd18&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;qid=1404402073&amp;sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1
I think it was 139 when I got it.
Amazon for 160. Bit pricey, but its the best reviewed one I found.
Just a heads up on the listed USB card. Looks to be some form of a NEC Renesas chipset. You may have compatibility issues unless someone has tried this specific card and has let you know it will work. If possible I would consider the one linked below as it has the Fresco usb controller that is supported.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=psdc_229185_t2_B01MQ5R7I1
Do you mean this one? Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card - Interface USB 3.0 4-Port Express Card Desktop with 15 pin SATA Power Connector, [ Include with A 4pin to 2x15pin Cable + A 15pin to 2x 15pin SATA Y-Cable ] https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TJ0lDb8B0TC1Z
Get one of the following PCIE Cards.
If only connecting Rift S
If you plan to connect more than just the Rift S
I fixed mine by buing Inateck 4 port USB PCI-E card. Do not buy any USB 3 extension card. Not every driver work. I bought SilverStone USB 3 and it didn't work at all. Then bough the inateck ( ebay ships from german (worldwide) Amazon ships from german (not worldwide) )
The driver name needs to be "Fresco Logic" otherwise the extension doesn't work. The inateck card is oculus' recommended device for rift.
One of these will likely solve the issue for you. Assuming it's not a laptop, of course.
> Ok here : My USBS are fucked up
There are PCIxE USB adapters so you don't have to buy a new motherboard just do have new USB ports
> and in the future i want to have a better GPU CPU .. if i have a better motherboard already thatll save a lot of time
That is the Problem, you have an LGA1155 Socket on the board at the moment but newer CPUs have LGA2066 (Intel) or Socket AM4 (AMD Ryzon). If you want to upgrade your motherboard now to another Socket you won't be able to use your old CPU and need to upgrade too.
So you won't save any time at all. You just spend more money because you buy a new motherboard with 2015 "technology" and slap the same CPU on it.
> If motherboards are that irrelevant why do they make "Better" ones then.
Because those are made for different kind of use cases. We are at a time in which even in gaming there is no noticeable performance increase if you switch a normal Motherboard with a gaming motherboard. Some have other ports others have different ports.
> JUST HELP ME FIND ONE
Why tho? if you are so adamant to buy a new Motherboard you probably won't listen to what anyone is saying here. And since you have no clue on what you are doing because all the necessary information are listed in my posts.
Don't do it man .. just don't do it. it isn't worth it.
You upgrade your PC to play games or do stuff your current setup can't handle not because you want to be more up to date ... especially not contradicting the statement to be up to date but then still use an old socket.
The Rift S in a pita regarding the USB port..... On my previous setup (GTX 1070) I had to buy a pcie USB card for the headset to work, it was this one:
[5 ports+ 20pin]Inateck PCI Carte USB 3.0 5 Ports USB 3.0 connecteur à 20 broches avec connecteur 15 broches Sata, un 4 broches 2x15pin câble, une Y-câble prise SATA https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B00FPIMJEW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GJCODbY5RJEW9
Since I upgraded my gpu to a RTX 2080 super, I use the USB-C connector onboard and it's working great indeed....
Hope that helps!
I bought a headset and realized my USB 3.0 ports weren't properly compatible (MSI 970 Gaming mobo). For whatever reasons drivers weren't compatible (Oculus compatibility check tool on their site can tell you if yours is compatible or not). You need 2 USB 3.0 ports for the sensors, I plugged my headset into a 2.0 which is fine.
For your reference this is the card I bought: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Express-Connector-Controller-Internal/dp/B00FPIMJEW/
I also bought 8gb of RAM so I would have 16gb... Just in case. Most people already have that though.
It's a very old issue, there are plenty of those posts in the first months of Vive avaliability (this one for example).
Is not related to 3.0, it depends from some USB controllers than doesn't work as they should with the Vive (an additional USB controller could solve this for a cheap price). Being 3.0 and 2.0 slots connected to different controllers, this explain why moving the Vive could solve the problem, where obviously would be better to use a 3.0 controller without issues.
If you are having controller pairing issues, there's a good chance your motherboard's USB chipset isn't up to par. You'd be surprised how many people are having USB issues with their brand new top of the line motherboards. Did you try getting the Inateck PCI-Express USB Controller as recommended by Valve? I would first try every USB port on your system to see if you can find one that works. Be sure to close SteamVR, swap ports, wait for drivers to finish installing, then boot up SteamVR again and see if it works. I've found that several of my USB ports work better for the Vive than others, and I assume it is due to the USB bandwidth on that chipset, which varies depending on which other USB devices I have plugged into that same line on different ports.
Inateck 2-Port USB3.0 PCI-Express Card, it's found under Headset > New USB PCI-Express Card.One thing to keep in mind is that the Inateck PCI-Express controller does require a SATA power cable from your Power Supply, though the Inateck PCI-Express controller does come with a Molex-To-SATA adapter and a SATA-Y-Splitter so you need either a Molex power cable or a SATA extension cable if you don't have a spare SATA power cable.
I would say so. I bought one as my new motherboard came with a lot less USB but more 3.1 and type c connectors which I don't have. So I bought a 5 port PCI USB and it's been a perfect solution. I tried an external USB hub (non powered) but the problem is some of the externals need more power than the hub provides so they didn't work.
This is the one I have but seems no longer available on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMJEW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Buy one of these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDT0072/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is the extension cables I use
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H90L4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH134L6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
&#x200B;
Lastly, if you still have issues with 90hz even after buying the HDMI adapter then its probably also a power issue and you will need one of these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMJEW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is what I use on my room scale setup, it all works flawlessly:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMFB5OK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMJEW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCQS2C7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
And of course, the third sensor :)
You are probably fine, but since PSU's are pretty cheap I would consider an upgrade to prevent any issues.
&#x200B;
I can attest to the longevity and performance of this one, been running in my rig for 4 years now.
https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-100-W1-0500-KR-WHITE-Warranty-Supply/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=psu&qid=1563207863&s=gateway&sr=8-2
OP Dont get that PSU if you value your system, get this instead.
Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:
Link: This one
|Country|Link|
|:-----------|:------------|
|Spain|amazon.es|
|Canada|amazon.ca|
|Italy|amazon.it|
This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting).
You'd be better off getting a known quality 500w 80+ or bronze rated unit by EVGA instead.
http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-80PLUS-Certified-ATX12V-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1411072685&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=evga+500
http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-80PLUS-Bronze-Certified-100-B1-0500-KR/dp/B00DGHKK7M/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1411072685&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=evga+500
both come with good reviews from jonnyguru
From the FAQ:
Frequent sensor disconnection issues or tracking glitches
This is an issue with your motherboard's USB controller not being fully compliant with the USB 3.0 spec.
Try putting 1 of your sensors into a USB 2.0 port instead of having both in USB 3.0.
If that does not solve your issue, you should buy the Inateck KTU3FR-4P PCI-E USB 3.0 card: USA | UK | Canada | Germany | France
NOTE: only this exact model, the 4 port version, is verified to work on all systems. Do not buy an alternative.
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM
___
It's not actually the recommended card perse anymore, the above was for the old Rift but it is the card most people are using. Sadly, the USB controller with the most issues is the Asmedia like the one you ordered.
If you're looking to save as much money and pull it off as "playable" you're probably looking at replacing the fx6300 with an 8350 + hope you have a PCI-E slot for a USB 3.0 card.
If you have the expansion slot you can do this
https://www.amazon.co.uk/AMD-Black-Vishera-Clock-Turbo/dp/B009O7YUF6 - 75 Euros
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ - 20 Euros
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Zotac-NVIDIA-GeForce-GDDR5-Graphics/dp/B01IA9FEOO - 250 Euros.
I'd still recommend getting out of the AM3 CPUs and upgrading, but understand budget constraints suck!
That is close to what I did, and looks to be the same card. I bought two Inateck cards, each card having one controller: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ (non-referral link)
Oculus says you can have up to two sensors per controller. I'm using three sensors (two sensors on one Inatech card, the third on the other Inatech card, headset on motherboard USB 3.0 ports). Two of those sensors are on active USB 3.0 extension cables. No issues as of yet. Tracking has been solid, minimal occlusion, and zero USB issues.
Here is a good post from Oculus regarding USB and their hardware: https://www.oculus.com/blog/oculus-roomscale-balancing-bandwidth-on-usb/
No, you need an expansion card. This is the one that's recommended. I purchased it and all my USB problems were solved. A hub is just a splitter. The expansion card will give you a whole new USB bus with the bandwidth you'll need.
Oh... That's not good. You'll need to get a new PSU too. This one will be good - https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-BRONZE-Warranty-Tester-100-B1-0600-KR/dp/B00EON40CS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473355683&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=evga+psu
Make sure everything fits, usually those Dell cases aren't designed for upgradability.
Is this the same as 600 B1? If it is, I think amazon price matched.
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-BRONZE-Warranty-Tester-100-B1-0600-KR/dp/B00EON40CS
The 600b is great for that build and is currently on sale for $40. https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-BRONZE-Warranty-Tester-100-B1-0600-KR/dp/B00EON40CS
Looks like a really good build. I will put part links in the end of the post. Here's some tips to save a bit of money if you're open to it:
TL;DR: cut back on PSU efficiency ratings, look for different 16GB or even 8GB RAM kits, ditch CPU cooler (or keep if you want), get an RX 480 for saving money on future monitors, you can also put another RX 480 in your build in the future with a different motherboard; an ATX motherboard would fill your case and add capability for a second RX 480, a non-Samsung SSD could save you some money, while for $100, you can get an SSD and a 1TB hard drive.
Links:
“Basic” EVGA 550W
Rosewill Hive-550
EVGA 600B
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO LED
RX 480 -choose which one you like
Asus B150-PLUS
Crucial MX 300 275GB
SanDisk Z400S 256GB
WD Blue 1TB
I hope my advice helped you and that this didn't overwhelm you. If you save enough money, you could throw in a red LED PWM fan, which adjusts its speed based on your computer's needs. You could maybe even throw in an LED strip or two. I had a lot of fun making this, thanks for posting :D
Your computer probably needs that Inateck USB card. It doesn't sound like your USB cables are getting enough power.
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503243521&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=inateck+usb+3.0
The question is a little bit broad, but you plug it into your graphics cards display port and into a USB port, download the Oculus software and steam VR if you want to play steam games and you're set. You'll want a graphics card like a GTX1050ti or higher for the games and at least a modern CPU.
Alternatively in the Rift S case it uses some kind of 3D mapping of your room/ play area to track the headset with it's cameras and then also uses the headsets cameras to track the controllers via IR lights emitted from them that flash at different frequencies.
If you do get a Rift S and your specs are up to par but you find that you loose tracking completely sometimes or get static/ snow looking stuff on your screen this can be fixed by purchasing and installing a USB expansion card in your pc, the recommended ones are basically anything with a Fresco L1100 chipset like this one: https://www.amazon.com.au/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM
Here is the link to the card that is recommended by the subreddit wiki. If you go to rooms scale setup option 2 the card is listed there. Here is the exact card listed in the wiki. link
I'll admit the black/red is not much better than the silver/green but the ones you are looking at are still not the recommended ones.
The root cause i probably your PC, or more precisely your USB 3.x port doesn't supply enough current.
Try the recommended Inatek PCIe card, as it should provide enough power for the Rift S: https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=inateck+4+port+usb+pcie&amp;qid=1572252471&amp;sr=8-4
> and wireless headset.
I read this can stress the usb port's bandwidth. If your system has two USB controllers I'd put this and the wifi on one controller and the vive on the other. Or unplug them and see if your issues go away.
I also slightly disagree that your CPU is to blame. It might be, but its pretty close to a 2500k, which a lot of people here use. It is 6 cores vs 4, so its per core performance is much lower. That may or may not be something to worry about depending on how well multi-thread the games you play are, but we do know USB issues are usually the main culprit.
> 1 TB SSD
Pop then out of its case and put it into your SATA natively. Why are you using USB here? This can eat up all the USB bandwidth on a controller all on its own and even then you're getting a fraction of the performance you're paying for. I really think you just have too many USB devices here and the vive is notoriously hard on USB. If this must be external, I'd consider moving to an eSATA connector.
You can also just buy a cheap known-good USB card, put it in, and have the Vive use it exclusively.
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM
$24
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2ARBGYVKL33VV&keywords=inatek+usb+3.0+card&qid=1554128873&s=electronics&sprefix=inatek%2Celectronics%2C241&sr=1-3
&#x200B;
It's the one I use and the one that was suggested by oculus.
-Unplug other unused USB devices,
-Disable front facing camera if you have turned it on.
-Reset your controllers and pair them again with your headset.
Maybe this PCI-E USB expansion card can help.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/
I think most people use the Inatek ones:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM
I do, and I don't have any issues with tracking, with a 2-sensor 360° setup.
What the other guy is saying.
If you don't have enough USB slots just get a PCIe USB Card for $20, should fix all issues.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM?pf_rd_p=2d1ab404-3b11-4c97-b3db-48081e145e35&amp;pf_rd_r=PFPXXSZ8SX3NFV8B1FCR
This one is officially recommended by Oculus.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM
there is the one with the Fresco Chipset that Oculus recommends and I Use
When I looked into this. Due to limitations of the camera resolution, with 4 cameras your looking at a maximum play space of about 12 feet.
The problem with additional cameras is USB bandwidth. Something that a hub can not fix. Instead you'll need to buy a couple of the Inateck USB adapters the Occulus crowd recommend. And put 2 cameras on each controller.
The PSMove Service is single threaded. So the additional cameras won't impact your CPU utilisation. Though you may have to reduce the per camera FPS if you have weak cores. Though my own experience with using all these things is 8 cores only barely enough. And would recommend upgrading to a 16 core CPU if at all possible (I know it's not an option for me, because if I had the money for a 16 core CPU, I'd just go buy a Vive. The price is comparable).
One word of warning, with the USB adapter boards. Don't use Molex to Sata adapters, like the one supplied to power the thing... Those things are infamous within the tech support world for being the number one cause of PC related fires.... The SATA power splitters are fine, so use them if your short of plugs on your PSU
Heh. I got one and the stupid thing didn't even work. I'm pretty sure I got the same one you did too.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I contacted support and they said their device couldn't support something like the rift. They even linked me to a different brand one that was 70$
I don't mean to be a sourpuss, but my experience was quite awful and I'd not recommend inateck
I already have an Innatek USB 3.0 card, specifically this one, that I bought to use with the Vive. I'll still try this later though.
I am already mounting all sensors about 8 feet in the air and all have active USB repeaters, two with USB 2.0 and two with USB 3.0. I am also using this Inatek 3.0 PCI card. If there is not a way for me to get decent tracking with that set up, then fuck that, I'll just wait for the knuckles and sell this thing.
Make sure you get a fresno logic card for the USB if your motherboard doesn't have it. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The issue isn't a fundamental 3.0 v 2.0 problem. The problem is the total throughput of a given USB controller. They've noticed that most controllers on the market cannot keep up with 3 sensors and the headset and maintain a low enough latency. Thus they recommend putting one of them on 2.0 so it will end up using a different controller and spread the load. You can certainly try the existing 3.0 port if you've got enough, but there's a chance you'll run into issues. If you do you'll need to grab an PCIE USB card (this one is a good one).
GIGABYTE AORUS GA-AX370-Gaming K5 AMD Ryzen AM4 X370 RGB FUSION SMART FAN 5 HDMI M.2 USB 3.1 Type-C ATX DDR4 Motherboard
This is the usb card I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Unfortunately there is really no way to tell if your pc will be able to handle four sensors without trying.
here's a tip i don't see mentioned.
if you're having issues with using the htc vive camera (loss of tracking etc) or being forced to set the camera in 30hz mode for it to even work - i purchased the following card:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
great card, supported chipset, and it's powered.
before i bought this card i was forced to run the vive camera in 30hz, or else it would make my tracking go all screwy. seems 100% solid at 60hz now
I don't know about those sites but this is the card Oculus recommends.
I FIGURED IT OUT!
It was a USB bandwidth problem after all. I ordered a PCI-E USB 3.0 expansion card on Amazon, plugged it into the PC, and now everything works flawlessly. I guess my motherboard just came stock with a crappy USB controller.
Here's the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Tengo algo más o menos así, presupuesto de 10k como dijiste y corro LOL a gráficos decentes/casi altos, witcher 3 a gráficos medio/bajo.
Intel core i-5
Fuente de poder de 600W
2 RAM DDR3 Corsair de 8GB
Tarjeta madre súper básica pero suficiente
Tarjeta video 2GB GDDR5
Will this EVGA 600B 80PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V/EPS12V Active PFC 600W Power Supply 100-B1-0600-KR fit in this [Raidmax Raptor No Power Supply ATX Mid Tower Case (Black) ATX-823BR] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008X199N2/?tag=pcpapi-20)
I'm really new to pc building, so bare with me.
[This is my soon to be rig] (http://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcforme/comments/220ism/cheap_below_1000/) the ones I'm chaging are the Memory and Tower because they're not available in amazon (international shipping) so if you guys can recommend for memory and tower, that would be great, but if the tower I linked is, hopefully, good enough. Then recommend a good memory.
IMHO I believe PC Part Picker is NOT the place you want to buy from. Yes, they have a user friendly interface, but that's it. Their parts are overpriced and you pay for shipping. Check these links for the exact same products through Amazon, and for most of the parts you get free shipping.
Case
Power Supply
HDD
RAM
CPU
Motherboard
Looks like a solid build. I had a ton of problems with the b350 version of that MB, but I assume they have the issues ironed out by now.
Edit: Maybe look at this psu
Do you have to buy at Amazon?
http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-80PLUS-Bronze-Certified-100-B1-0600-KR/dp/B00EON40CS/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1421433272&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=600W
cheaper, reliable brand and 50 more watts =)
Cpu- https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Cooler-YD1700BBAEBOX/dp/B06WP5YCX6/ref=sr_1_18?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521700065&amp;sr=1-18&amp;keywords=cpu
Gpu
https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-Windforce-Graphics-GV-N1060WF2OC-3GD/dp/B01KQUDE2Y/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521699625&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=GeForce+GTX+1060
Harddrive
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Cache-Desktop-Drive-WD10EZEX/dp/B0088PUEPK
Motherboared
https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Motherboard-B350M-GAMING-PRO/dp/B06X3Y7KB5/ref=pd_sim_147_6?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B06X3Y7KB5&amp;pd_rd_r=NK0YGV4JWT87JP1TX5AV&amp;pd_rd_w=VArLs&amp;pd_rd_wg=5DoKl&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=NK0YGV4JWT87JP1TX5AV
Ram
https://www.amazon.com/Ballistix-Single-PC4-21300-288-Pin-Memory/dp/B01N5P755B/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521700408&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=ddr4+ram
Power supply
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-BRONZE-Warranty-Tester-100-B1-0600-KR/dp/B00EON40CS/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521700503&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=power+supply
Fans
https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Sleeve-Computer-Cooling-ROCF-13001/dp/B00KB8CB9O/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521700563&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=fan+pc
This is what I came up with.
took me 40 minutes
I tried my best, its a bit over 10,000
Case 1085
PSU 840
Storage 1000
Video Card 3900
Motherboard 1029
RAM 630
CPU 2300
Don't limit your build to 430 watts, I have an Antec VP450 and honestly wish I could've gotten more power. While it's not important now, later on when you want a more power hungry card you'll have to upgrade it.
I'd recommend something like the EVGA 600B for now, only $45 on Amazon
Edit: Also what a hell of a deal. Those 6 core phenoms regularly go for $100 anymore, so that guy hooked you up with a proper deal!
Solid. Some reports of the ARC line from Rosewill being unable to produce their rated power and are well under it. Not to mention being much hotter and louder than other brands in the same price bracket.
EVGA 600B 50-ish USD
You can try out the Rosewill and see how it works from you. I have not confirmed glaring issues regarding ripple or catching fire. So it will do the job but with something like a 390 you could run into some power related problems if the PSU can't keep up.
Change the power supply. $2 more, but way higher quality:
http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00EON40CS/
>
Why would you order PC parts from Amazon? The Korean price is pretty much the same for almost all of the parts, if you include the cost of shipping.
That might usually be the case but look at this sexy deal
http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-BRONZE-Continuous-Warranty-100-B1-0600-KR/dp/B00EON40CS
But since you seem to be familiar with buying PC parts in Korea.. I'm going for roughly the "Fair" tier. Clicking on the X4 860K brings me to this website.. Is it normal to other PC parts from sites like these? Also, since non-Korean cases are ridic expensive, should I just buy a popular Korean one?
I wouldn't trust that PSU if it smells like burning. You can probably get away with day-to-day use, but putting some stress (gaming, video editing) on it may actually kill it for good.
As for a new PSU, nvidia recommends a 600w, so that, [EVGA has a pretty good one] (https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-BRONZE-Warranty-Tester-100-B1-0600-KR/dp/B00EON40CS).
http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-80PLUS-Bronze-Certified-100-B1-0600-KR/dp/B00EON40CS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1425761742&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=evga+600W
http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GDDR5-4GB-2xDVI-Graphics-GV-R929OC-4GD/dp/B00HS84DFU/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1425761763&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=r9+290
http://www.amazon.com/AMD-FD8320FRHKBOX-FX-8320-8-Core-Black/dp/B009O7YU56/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1425761798&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=FX+8320
Here was my attempt, came in about $40 over if you have Amazon Prime. Decent build - definitely a great home to drop a GPU into later. glhf!
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6600k Quad-Core Processor | $237.89 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | Evo 212 CPU Cooler | $29.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | Gigabyte ATX DDR4 LGA 1151 Motherboards GA-G1.Sniper B7 | $109.93 @ Amazon
Memory | G.Skill NT Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $64.74 @ Amazon
SSD | Sandisk Ultra II 480GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $124.99 @ Amazon
Case | Apex Vortex Mid Tower Case | $40.44 @ Amazon
Power Supply | EVGA 600B Bronze Power Supply | $39.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $647.97
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-24 18:59 EDT-0400 |
[Right now the EVGA 600 B1 is $39.99 on Amazon] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EON40CS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1451242419&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=evga+600b&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51Zd5PuGxSL&amp;ref=plSrch)
Not modular tho but I've found that if your case has a place to tuck the extra cables, like an unused drive bay, it's not as bad as this sub hypes it up to be.
Do you have stock cooler/radiator? is so I would look into upgrading. This one is good one Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO for budget and best on market right now. As for thermal paster Here is a pretty good one ARCTIC MX-4 Thermal Compound Paste
The thermal paste goes on top of your CPU when you fix your radiator/cooler, here is a good video on how, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r2MEAnZ3swQ
Let me first say im not an expert in Air coolers for cpus, I have always used All in one(AIO) water coolers. AIO are definitely more expensive, but easier to install, have better cooling ability, but can be louder than Air coolers.
Air coolers tend to have better price/performance and are cheaper but tend to be harder to install.
These two below are two of the most popular due to price/performance so they are worth looking at on the AUS side of things to.
https://www.amazon.com/CRYORIG-Tower-Cooler-Intel-CPUs/dp/B00S7YA5FQ
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI
This article also has some good info on both types and good suggestions at different price points
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/best-cpu-coolers,4181.html
The only other thing would be to try and get a EVGA G series psu or a Seasonic G series(What i have, caught it on sale tho). If you cant find one of them Corsair makes some cool ones too. You want to get a Bronze 80 rated PSU at the very least. They are one of the most important parts of the pc and one going bad can cause damage or a lot of instability once your gpu/cpu starts kicking in.
Im not familar with the cases you choose but its important to look at the manufacturers website of the case to see how much clearance each case provides for air coolers since they can be big as hell.
That all being said I think the UMART build is the best out of the three with the PC CASE GEAR coming in second.
The UMART is only $100 AUS more than the others according to the image but with that build you get better performance with the ability to overclock later down the line if you need more power eventually.
Plus you get slightly faster ram so overall it looks better.
Remember that you can upgrade to a better case, GPU or cpu fan etc down the line if you outgrow your current selection but the CPU/PSU, and Motherboard will be fine for a lot of years so its worth spending a little more on them now.
Also sheesh man those AUS prices are no joke, that 470 would only be around $160-180 in the states
I would recommend the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo. This is a very good cpu cooler and is reasonably quiet. https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI
Edit: What is your current cpu cooler?
This is the best budget cooler but it is too tall for many older cases. Something like this will do the job and the price is right.
It does not hurt to have one. Extends harware life span and if you ever consider pushing extra FPS by overclocking, you'll have it already:
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=pcpapi-20
Hey OP! To answer your question, that will be one hell of a PC. I have a question though, are you using a stock cooler on your i5-4690? I honestly wouldn't recommend it. If you're going air cooling, go with the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO. If you are going with liquid cooling, I would go with the Kraken X31.
Looks good to me, only thing missing is an SSD, they can be had dirt cheap now and shouldn't be overlooked even in a budget build. Here is a great option with free shipping, another larger option with free shipping.
The 7700K and Kaby Lake friends should be released around the end of this year, you may find yourself having to upgrade sooner than later before the 6700K goes out of stock. I would reconsider putting the money for the 6500 towards the 6700K now unless the budget is super tight, in which case I would go i3 6100 since you are planning on upgrading anyway. 6700K cheapest with free shipping I could find. I believe you also get another $5 off when signing up a new account. Keep in mind the 6700K doesn't come with a cooler, so a 212 EVO would be a solid option.
You could save some money on the case as well, here are some sale options. Make sure what you get is full atx compatible.
I live in venezuela, so 30°c is a normal temperature.
Mi solución fue usar 2 disipadores de 240mm en el frente y uno de 120mm en la parte trasera para hacer el aire circular, mi case es genérico así que le hice unos pequeños agujeros al frente y para el cpu tengo un cooler Master este para ser exactos
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo CPU Cooler with PWM Fan, Four Direct Contact Heat Pipes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JbiyDb9CS8EE6
Uso un AMD x4 860k y una nvida GTX 1050 con 16gb de ram, a día de hoy no tengo problemas con la temperatura, trata de mantener tu PC limpia y las pastas térmicas de CPU y GPU en buen estado.
I would suggest a tower style air cooler in the $30-$40 range. They are the most reliable and simplest solution, and offers the most value for your money. There's quite a lot of options:
bq! Pure Rock Slim $30 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KVNCEIG/
&#x200B;
CM Hyper 212 EVO $35 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005O65JXI/
&#x200B;
CM Hyper 212 Black $37 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H25DYM3/
&#x200B;
Arctic Freezer 34 $34 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MQ9MQ5M/
&#x200B;
Enermax ETS-TF40F $36 https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16835214064
&#x200B;
There's like a half dozen more options, these are some highlights looking at the current cooler prices on pcpartpicker.
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo CPU Cooler with PWM Fan, Four Direct Contact Heat Pipes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MS3tDbN9W885Y
XFX Radeon RX 5700 8GB GDDR6 3xDP HDMI https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T81CGFY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sT3tDb496Y1V8
Patriot 16GB(2x8GB) Viper III DDR3 1866MHz (PC3 15000) CL10 Desktop Memory With Black Mamba Heatsink - PV316G186C0K https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00453R90W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4T3tDb7TX3RQN
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO RR-212E-20PK-R2 CPU Cooler with 120mm PWM Fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GoHaAbZ0GXZTW
It's this the same one except red led?
Wow, thanks a lot for that :) I'll be awaiting your review haha. Any major difference in this or this? I am planning on over clocking.
the build is perfect but i recommend http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463623842&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=cooler+master+hyper+212+evo+82.9+cfm+sleeve+bearing+cpu+cooler
These temps are totally fine in my book. An aftermarket cooler would help with your CPU temps though.
http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s03
I have an I5 6600 that stays between 26 and 35 C constantly. highly recommend
The EVO 212 is a nice little CPU cooler for $30. I use it and love it for the price.
You probably want this heatsink not just a fan. Assuming this fits in your case, it'll be the most cost effective measure to keep heat down. Also, make sure that your case is exhausting hot air quickly.
Any reason not to go with a Hyper 212 EVO? It's the go-to suggestion for CPU coolers. If you're not overclocking, there's no need for anything expensive to cool the chip.
Not much better you can do than a [build with an i7-6700K, GTX 1080, and Samsung 950 PRO] (https://www.theaipc.com/result/c1467911191918).
Throw in a good ATX case-- Corsair makes good ones so [something like this] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I0MKMG2/) would probably do the trick.
Edit: A CPU cooler would help too if you end up overclocking-- [the hyper 212 evo works great for me] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005O65JXI/)
i7 for gaming usage is overkill, get an i5-4690K instead.
Get a Z97 board to match your i5-4690K. This MSI Z97 PC MATE should do the job.
Get a CPU Cooler if you're going to OC it, Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO.
This is the cooler I recently bought: https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1466783819&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=CPU+Cooler
Literally caused the heat coming off my CPU to go down by roughly 30~40 degrees. Couldn't be happier.
No problem :D . If you have trouble with that cooler, I recommend the Enermax ETS T40 (which I have and I overclocked my i5 3570k to 4.4GHz, while maintaining it less than 70 degrees, but sadly the overclock was unstable, so many of my games crashed, forcing me to go to 4.2GHz. it also comes in different colours :P ) or the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
OP get a different CPU cooler like the Hyper 212 evo
You're running over max temps.
***
If you have a good 3rd party heat sync watch this video on how to apply/re-apply thermal paste if you don't know.
You might have burnt your chip if you ran it that hot for a long time.
This is definitely not normal. The stock CPU Cooler should be able to handle it fairly well, but your temperatures are too high. Consider buying a better Cooler like these:
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-HT2-28PK-R1-Hyper-Heatpipes/dp/B00K7809O2/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=3K4XT2YJLQ7R8&keywords=coolermaster+hyper+212+evo&qid=1562316610&s=gateway&sprefix=coolermaster%2Caps%2C345&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212E-20PK-R2-Direct-Contact/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3K4XT2YJLQ7R8&keywords=coolermaster+hyper+212+evo&qid=1562316610&s=gateway&sprefix=coolermaster%2Caps%2C345&sr=8-3
&#x200B;
If you don't want to buy a new Cooler, you should re-apply the thermal paste as this is abnormal behavior even for the stock Cooler.
I think people underestimate the need to Processor cooling.
I upgraded to an i7-4790 and the game still ran terrible. I went ahead and ordered a Cooler Master Hyper and now it runs smooth..
Cooler Matser
From the same place you buy your computer hardware of course. Anyways, you'll want a cooler that supports LGA 1151, which most do these days anyways.
Then you get to decide it you want an air cooler or a radiator cooler. here are a few for you to look at for reference:
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-RR-212E-20PK-R2-120mm/dp/B005O65JXI
https://www.amazon.com/CRYORIG-Tower-Cooler-Intel-CPUs/dp/B00S7YA5FQ
https://www.amazon.com/DeepCool-Cooling-CAPTAIN-240-EX/dp/B01HGMHVAQ
Cheers!
Well, A GPU would be a good investment, but I don't think you'll need that considering what you said was just programming and stuff. If you got into the realm of more intense stuff, like video editing or 3D CAD, then A GPU would be needed. I would recommend a CPU cooler (are those temps in Celsius for Fahrenheit?). You don't really need the liquid cooler (It's more money for more cooling, primarily for high-intensity gaming). the Cooler Master 212 EVO will get you by, along with some Arctic Silver 5. But.......Your darn case. This one should fit though
Well im not that expert but the case you selected i think it comes with a frontal intake fan and another fan as exhaust on the back, which is the same as my Corsair Carbide 300R series, and trust me with only 2 fans with the case you will have a decent airflow, considering the videocard has its own and also CPU which it really depends on what you want, but take a look at this one for your CPU (if you dont want liquid cooling), COOLER MASTER EVO HYPER 212!
But for the PSU i bought a Corsair 800gs one and let me tell you its reliable, take a look at this one Corsair CXM 750W! , if anything else i can help with let me know.
UPDATE: The version on the pcpartpicker was SEMI MODULAR not non modular (which comes with all cables attached to it), CX 750W CORSAIR NON MODULAR!
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212E-20PK-R2-Direct-Contact/dp/B005O65JXI something like that on a budget. Noctua's are good for more $.
XFR and PBO are ryzen 2 features that auto-overclock your cpu based on thermal sensors.
https://www.anandtech.com/show/12625/amd-second-generation-ryzen-7-2700x-2700-ryzen-5-2600x-2600/5 is a good write up on the tech.
From posts here, dialing in manual overclocks and voltages will rarely offer much higher performance than turning those on with a good cooler.
I'd like the opinion of my peers here:
I'm upgrading the CPU cooler from the stock cooler so I can take advantage of my i5-7500K (I can't find the K anywhere, but I'm 99% sure it is) and actually overclock the thing so I can actually get 60fps on Assassin's Creed Odyssey. I only get about 45-60fps in that game. I've never overclocked before, so that will be a journey in it of itself.
It's between the Hyper 212 Evo and the be quiet! Dark Rock 4. I have them both up in tabs and am trying to decide. I imagine they run comparably, but the Dark Rock 4 matches my mostly black with some white build better. The Dark Rock 4 is also the recommended cooler by Tom's Hardware, which I like to use as a resource.
I also looked at the Cooler Master MasterAir MA410M but that might be too much RGB for me. Only RGB thing in my build is on my motherboard and it's just like a pulsating red light.
A true first world problem deciding if an all-black cooler is worth an extra $50. But what do you think?
Also, here's the build otherwise:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel - Core i5-7500 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | $229.89 @ B&H
Motherboard | ASRock - Z270 Killer SLI/ac ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $63.99 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill - Trident Z 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $149.89 @ OutletPC
Storage | Crucial - MX300 525GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $128.90 @ OutletPC
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB SC2 Video Card |-
Case | NZXT - S340 Elite (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case |-
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $149.89 @ OutletPC
Edit: I'm second guessing if I can even overclock this CPU. I swear the GeForce Experience thing told me my CPU was an i5-7500K, but those don't seem to exist and the amazon page doesn't tell me if I can overclock. I need to go home and get in front of it and double check.
CPU + Mobo, $86.24
8GB ram Dual channel, 70.99
240GB SSD, $100 ($20 MIR)
Used r9 270x, around $110 I believe (don't have a link for this, find one on ebay or something)
Windows 8, $90.26
Corsair 430W, $40 ($20 MIR)
Corsair 200r, $50 ($10 MIR)
CM Hyper 212 Evo, $35.96
Rest should go into speakers mouse keyboard.
if you need a monitor that's gonna be like an extra 120
If you could however chauk up a little bit more money I would go for a bigger PSU
The current one is fine, but its safer to go overkill on PSU than it is to hover somewhat above.
My plan is gaming and programe in Java, Python ... But i cant waste more than 300€ in a CPU right now.
Do you recommend me H7 or Artic33? I have seen this Cooler Master RR 212E but if you said H7 or Artic I can trust in you x)
So I think that I will buy this case, one of the cooler that you said to me and maybe this CPU if I dont have more recommendations.
Thank you man, I appreciate your help!
Your upgrade looks like it will be way cheaper than mine was.
I got the Rift on sale for $350, but my PC was like 10 years old with only a new SSD in it.
Ended up getting an i5-9600K + MSI Z390 Gaming Edge for $470, 16 GB of RAM, Cooler Master 212 EVO which turned out to be huge and a huge pain in the ass to install (I recommend watching the video on that page that I didn't notice until after I installed the thing with only it's Ikea-like instructions.), but that big fan means it's far quieter than the tiny stock fans processors usually come with. The i5-9600K does not come with a fan either, so I had no choice and this was the most popular one on NewEgg.
Also got myself an MSI Gaming X GTX 1070 used on Ebay for $270. And because it only has one HDMI port, I decided to use that for the RIFT because it was less risky, and got a Displayport to HDMI cable which supports audio for my monitor which has the speakers built in and does not have a Displayport connector. Only afterward while taking my PC apart however did I realize I had the HMDI cable plugged into my old card with a DVI adapter, and the Gaming X has a DVI port as well, so I could have saved the money on the cable. :(
Also at the last minute I had to run out and grab a Corsair 750W power supply because my perfectly good Coolermaster 750W power supply did not have an 8 pin connector for my CPU. Of course, when I got it home it did not have the 4 pin connector and the motherboard has both a 4 pin and 8 pin and I assumed both would be needed, but I gave it a shot and just having the 8 pin was fine. But now I wonder if just having the 4 pin would also have been fine. The damn manual doesn't have a thing to say about it being okay to just use one of them, but being an electrical engineer I have to assume they're both tied to the same rail on the board, so I'm just gaining a bit more copper to lower the voltage drop if I were to connect a 4 pin as well, and the system seems perfectly stable, so perhaps they included the second connector to help with overclocking. I dunno.
Anyway, final tally including the Rift without a third sensor was $1,339.
And if you're wondering why I didn't go with AMD, well, I could have but when I priced it out, I wasn't actually going to save that much. And the Intel seemed like it would perform better with both games and applications and would just be less likely to have any issues like the Vive and its wireless solution do with AMD processors.
Part of the reason the AMD was not much cheaper is the same MSI motherboard would have been more expensive as an AMD variant and while the AMD included a cooler, the Cooler Master one was only $30 and had a bigger fan which meant it would likely be quieter. Though the AMD does run at a lower wattage, so it could be a toss up. All I know is my old PC sounded like a jet engine when I started doing any heavy lifting with 3D graphics, and it was still kinda noisy otherwise, but now its super quiet and even when running 3D apps that MSI card which I specifically chose because it's one of the quietest, was indeed really quiet.
Speaking of the 1070, my god that is a monster of a card! I barely fit it in my case. And my case is a full size tower. But it has extra 3.5" bays down the bottom where I have my hard drives installed and I had to move them down some more to get it to fit and it only barely slid in behind the metal frame of the drive bay.
Only other thing to mention is while I had no problem fitting my two ram sticks on the motherboard, that Cooler Master cooler's fan would probably collide with one of the ram sticks if I were to install four in there. I think the fan can slide up and down on the cooler though, so perhaps as long as you have low profile ram, you could slide it up a smidge or two to make it fit. Something to consider if you think you may eventually want 32 or 64GB of ram.
A good cooler for this would be Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO for 3000. So, the cost goes to around 23000. This is a 100% premium over the r5.1600 for sure, but you get a 15% increase in performance and 2 cores and 4 threads.
I personally wont go for it, but there are people who want a high end CPU and this is the one to get.
It is the best affordable workstation cpu in the market. Another good option is https://mdcomputers.in/amd-octa-core-ryzen-7-1800x.html @ 23000/-
212 evo is pretty much the cheapest usable heatsink at $32
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212E-20PK-R2-Direct-Contact/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=pd_day0_hl_147_1/134-1822779-0293319?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B005O65JXI&amp;pd_rd_r=228ce3e4-397b-11e9-85bf-371aa4c168e5&amp;pd_rd_w=C4ZXm&amp;pd_rd_wg=QlOQZ&amp;pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&amp;pf_rd_r=DM08SD8AWB1JNRM1YF6M&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=DM08SD8AWB1JNRM1YF6M
At $38 you can upgrade to an H7.
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4UF2DZ6565&amp;Description=cryorig%20h7&amp;cm_re=cryorig_h7-_-13C-000U-00005-_-Product
Ok, so I hadn't really planned on making this a long response, but here we are with a nice little wall.
TL;DR at the bottom if you don't care about the smaller details.
Turbo is a processor-based function. I used to have a non-K processor and that still turbos. The K model processors also have turbo stats. Overclocking refers to pushing the processor's base speed(in your example: 3.2Ghz) past the manufacturer recommended specs. After overclocking, you can still acheive higher speeds with the Turbo functionality, but it doesn't tend to kick in as often since you already have it overclocked.
K processors have unlocked multipliers which makes overclocking much easier. However, you can still overclock a non-K processor, it is just more difficult, usually less stable, and takes a good bit more technical knowledge since it requires manually adjusting voltages and other settings from the advanced menu on your motherboard(if applicable). With K processors, many newer motherboards(especially higher end ones, gaming ones, etc.) have either a hardware or software(within the BIOS) button/switch which will attempt to automatically calculate a safe and stable operating clock speed above the manufacturer recommended spec.
Depending on your processor and how "well" it overclocks, you may see a large boost in performance. For example, a common budget overclocking CPU(Intel-based) is the Pentium G3258 Anniversary edition. In most cases, you will see a pretty substantial boost to your clock speed(each board and CPU combo will work slightly differently due to each manufacturer's programming). I used to use the above mentioned Pentium CPU until I was able to save up for an i5. IIRC, it's base clock is also 3.2GHz, and with an aftermarket cooler I was able to overclock it to 4.0/4.1GHz using my motherboard's auto-overclock function. With manual tuning, I was able to jump it up to 4.3 and still have it be stable. I now use an i5 4690(non-K) and a water cooler. I have not yet overclocked my i5 since I've had great performance out of it and haven't seen the need to apply any tweaks.
TL;DR, You're kinda right in that Turbo increases clock speed(this is a processor function), but overclocking is actually a separate function related to your motherboard and its power settings.
Just buy a cheap Hyper 212 EVO or something similar, if it can fit in your case.
People complain about costs but I went to electronics recycler in town and took heatsinks from some old computers, with the pump, clear vinyl tubing, and a peice of ABS plastic to mount it all on total cost was $28 CAD for the parts I am using now.
I bought this [kit] (https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01M66ZSXT/ref=cfb_at_prodpg) but the heatsink/fan was not big enough to actually cool the TEC. so I used a bigger one, a CoolerMasterHyper 212 that was free via salvage. I used this pump and here is my heat exchanger that sits in the nutrient solution and simply run salt water through it because the coolant will freeze near the cooling pad it you use regular tapwater. Goes to about -5 C.
Cooler Master Hyper212 Evo
Read my post and what I say about Aio coolers. Typically I wouldn't recommend building a custom loop if you're new to pc's. Even aio coolers aren't needed for the average gamer. This is one of the most commonly used aftermarket air coolers, with almost 8k amazon reviews, you know there's something right about it. Something like this would be ideal for a new pc builder.
You should definitely look into getting a heatsink/fan for the CPU. I recommend the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO. Great CFM with little noise and fair price.
Probably. Overclocking with a stock heatsink is a nono. Get this one for only $34.
You really don't need an over the top Mobo I listed once from amazon that goes for $150(I personally use a gigabyte mobo and find them extremely easy to use for OCing, reliable, and typically less expensive). Also make sure you buy the 4690k i5, not the regular 4690. This will allow you to OC. Also make sure you buy a third-party cooler as the stock one is absolute shit and breaks really easily. And as for SSD I would recommend a 250gb Samsung 850 Evo. I use a Samsung 830(2 years old and still works fantastic) which is blazing fast and this newer generation is even better and more affordable than ever.
Mobo:
http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GA-Z97X-GAMING-Gaming-Networking-Motherboard/dp/B00K2RQDXY/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1420863828&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=gigabyte+z97
CPU cooler:
http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1420864015&amp;sr=1-10&amp;keywords=4690k
SSD:
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-75E250B-AM/dp/B00OAJ412U/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1420864169&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=samsung+ssd
case: Corsair Carbide Series White 500R Mid Tower Computer Case
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005E97ZUU/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
motherboard: MSI Computer Corp. Motherboard ATX DDR3 1333 LGA 1150 Motherboards Z87-G45
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D12OBEU/ref=oh_details_o09_s01_i04?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
processor: Intel Core i5-4670K Quad-Core Desktop Processor 3.4 GHZ
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CO8TBOW/ref=oh_details_o09_s02_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
thermal paste: Arctic Silver 5
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OGX5AM/ref=oh_details_o09_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
psu: Cooler Master V1000 - 1000W Power Supply with Fully Modular Cables and 80 PLUS Gold Certification
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CGY4ETG/ref=oh_details_o09_s02_i03?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
heatsink: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005O65JXI/ref=oh_details_o09_s01_i02?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
memory: Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3 1600 MHz
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006EWUO22/ref=oh_details_o09_s01_i01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
fans: Corsair Air Series AF120 Quiet Edition Twin Pack Fan
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007RESG7G/ref=oh_details_o09_s02_i02?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Corsair Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition Single Fan
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007RESGGC/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
storage: Seagate Desktop HDD 4 TB
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B99JU4S/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Samsung Electronics 840 Pro
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Electronics-Series-2-5-Inch-MZ-7PD256BW/dp/B009NB8WRU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1382907278&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=samsung+840pro
Seagate Barracuda 3 TB HDD
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B99JU4S/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
keyboards: CM Storm QuickFire Stealth
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CKJ2EZI/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Ducky Shine II TKL Mechanical Keyboard White LED Backlit (Black Cherry MX)
http://tigerimports.net/sunshop/index.php?l=product_detail&amp;p=12170
mouse: Logitech G9X
http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Programmable-Laser-Gaming-Precision/dp/B001NTFATI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1382907692&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=logitech+g9x
hot swap hard drive bay: Plugable USB 3.0 SATA Hard Drive
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00APP6694/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
monitor: ViewSonic VX2703MH-LED 27-Inch LED-Lit Monitor
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008A3KFB8/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
sata cables: 18" White SATA 3 III 6 GB/s
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DK68OA4/ref=oh_details_o09_s01_i03?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
lighting kit: NZXT CB-LED20-WT 2-Metres Light Sensitivity Sleeved LED Kit
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0046Y5Z92/ref=oh_details_o09_s02_i05?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Here it is with a Thermalright Truespirit 120, which is about 10mm smaller than a 212+. The Hyper T4 is probably a better option.
At that price range you can get a pretty good CPU cooler(comes with thermal paste as well, if you didn't know that btw). Even if you don't have any plan on overclocking you can still get it just for less fan noise. If you don't care about either stock fan should be fine as long as you buy some new thermal paste.
Definitely, I agree with his suggestion. You can look up low profile air cooler. I don't know if Hyper 212 Evo would fit, but that cooler is really good and it's fairly cheap.
You can also look into Silenx or Noctura NH-L12
The Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO is basically the standard for air cooling, and cost $30. It'd be perfect for running at stock clock speeds and it should offer enough headroom for very mild overclocks.
The Cryorig H7 is extremely similar. I think I remember seeing a review that mentioned a better fin pattern or something like that so it's supposed to be marginally better than the 212. And the white fan looks pretty cool. I know that this one may or may not require an AM4 adapter kit depending whether or not it comes with the revised backplate. But you can just request that from Cryorig and they'll send on to you.
This is the one I got. Good price and works extremely well.
Cooler Master Hyper RR-212E-20PK-R2 LED CPU Cooler with PWM Fan, Four Direct Contact Heat Pipes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_wrBNpwuq9KO5m
It is the cooler that goes over your cpu, the stock will work fine if you're just gaming but i'd really recommend getting an aftermarket cooler such as a Hyper 212 Evo or a CRYORIG M9i. They're relatively easy to put on and are much, much quieter than the stock cooler and allow to overclock and not worry about your cpu temps
No. It's banned in Canada because the thermal paste is inedible and a Nova Scotian woman named Tipsy Viscera (Tipper Gore's cousin) convinced the Canadian government to ban it.
Source
Is the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO a good replacement for the CRYORIG H7? In Canada it is very hard to find the H7 without shipping from states. Looking primarily at this one
There you go. Prime and 30$
http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1453278948&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Hyper+212
It's a very good fan by the way.
Absolutely. The performance gain on the R9 290 can be quite impressive once you overclock it. The reference cooler is loud and not efficient, barely enough for the card to run at stock speed. I know that people are running 290's above the best 390's available.
The aftermarket water cooling mod lets the water cooling handle the GPU core while the stock fan takes care of the power delivery.
http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Edition-Cooling-Components-CB-9060001-WW/dp/B00MY3TS2C
Get a cheap air cooler for the CPU.
http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI/
Do yourself a favor. It's 30 bucks and drastically decreases idle and load temps, regardless of oc. It's a little unwieldy to install, but holy Krishna is it worth it.
You could, but your bottleneck is without a doubt your CPU. Fortunately, you can upgrade to another LGA 775 compatible chip for a modest cost. Here is a modified QX9650, which seems like a great upgrade over what you've got. Or you can pick up a Q6600 for a slightly lower cost.
Actually, I think the Core 2 Extreme processors may not be compatible with your motherboard, I'll leave that in there until I know otherwise (Core 2 Quad Q6600 would definitely work).It should work, the ASUS P5QL manual states that it does (page 28).I would highly recommend the QX9650 over the Q6600 at that price (far better performance, don't even consider the Q6600 if you can get the QX9650).
You'll probably also want either a new cooler, or at the very least new thermal paste for your upgraded LGA 775 processor (the old stuff on it will be rock hard and unusable). For example, the CM Hyper 212 EVO ($38 Amazon, also available w/ $10 Mail-in rebate on Newegg but +$6 shipping) is compatible with the LGA 775 chipset, but will also be compatible with all modern motherboards (LGA2011 & AM4 with an extra bracket) for when you do your full upgrade in the future. Or if you think you might get a CPU with a fan already included (such as the non-k variant Intel processors, or the non-x AMD AM4 Ryzen processors), you can simply buy new thermal paste and re-apply it when you install your upgraded LGA 775 processor.
If you want more RAM, you'll have to find out if you're currently using DDR2 or DDR3 RAM, documentation on P43 boards is really weak I'm having a tough time figuring out what your board supports (conflicting information all over the place). Then you can add more.Your board supports up to 1066MHz DDR2.Also,
while you're finding out whether you have ddr2 or 3try and find out which dual core CPU you have, and your current graphics card. Thanks.tl;dr: Buy a refurbished/pre-owned QX9650, get new thermal paste or a new cpu fan, find out what the speed and timings are of your current ram and then try and match that when you add more (or just buy a new/pre-owned set of 2x4gb DDR2 1066MHz ram).
Stock intel cooler is NOTORIOUSLY awful. I mean, it's laughed it for how bad it is. Honestly, you would be best off just buying a Hyper 212 Evo. It is THE value budget cooler, and it performs great. You have a 4690k, so it's unlocked for overclocking... why not get a cooler that can allow it to do that competently?
The cooler will allow it to stay at the overclock when folding, and have pretty decent temps to boot. Additionally, you may eliminate some throttling in gaming that you may never know you had.
Regardless of any of this, CPUs generally like to be kept at the lowest temp possible, and if you are planning on helping the Folding@Home cause (which you should!), you are gonna want a beefier cooler to prevent any possible lifespan shortening, no matter how rare that may be with modern CPUs today. It will be quieter too, which I always find is a major plus.
Good luck!
Hyper 212EVO
You might need to update the LAN driver on you're motherboard. AMD's stock coolers are usually pretty loud. Some PSU fans are also very loud. You will need to buy an aftermarket cooler before overclocking such as this one.
The be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 is currently the king of CPU air coolers. If that's out of your price range, nothing beats the price/performance ratio of the Hyper 212 EVO.
Cheap option, get this (might be a tight squeeze, requires removing the side panel fan): https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212E-20PK-R2-Direct-Contact/dp/B005O65JXI
Best option, get this (also requires removing that side panel fan, but might be a tiny bit easier to fit in as it's 2mm shorter): https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-U12S-Premium-Cooler-NF-F12/dp/B00C9EYVGY
unless you don't want to remove the side-panel fan at all, then get this, still great cooling: https://www.amazon.com/noctua-Premium-Cooler_Retail-Cooling-NH-C14S
It would also be helpful to know your motherboard model to check the compatibility list. But I'm fairly certain these coolers should fit regardless.
They include decent thermal paste, but the FX8350 is one of the hotter chips and it might be worthwhile to squeeze a few extra degrees out with this paste: https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B011F7W3LU
The best and relatively easiest ways to address poor aesthetics in the CPU are a modular or semi-modular PSU and replacement sleeved and color coordinated cables from said PSU, or if they are too expensive (and they are) sleeved cable extensions look just as good and are way cheaper, but create additional cable management.
&#x200B;
Regarding a cooling system you should definitely still have one even if you are not OC'ing. If you want to go cheap, get a solid air cooler like the Hyper 212 Evo. If you are more concerned about looks, maybe consider an AIO, like the EVGA CLC240. It's more expensive, but looks nice.
&#x200B;
Not 100% sure what you mean about the front facing fan, but if you are asking about fan placement, then yes at the front of the case is fine just make sure it isn't going against the airflow of other fans. If you mean fan orientation, like intake/exhaust, then that is also fine, with the same caveat. Generally speaking you want your airflow coming in the front/bottom and exhausting out the top/back.
&#x200B;
PSU:
EVGA 600BQ Semi-Modular (MB power is the only non-modular) https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Bronze-Modular-Warranty-110-BQ-0600-K1/dp/B01MTJTO2O/ref=sr_1_1?crid=244UIDUJ0IXE&keywords=600+watt+power+supply&qid=1556624118&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011%2Cp_36%3A2500-6000%2Cp_89%3ACorsair%7CEVGA%7CSeasonic%7Cbe+quiet%21%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A6906985011&rnid=386442011&rps=1&s=pc&sprefix=600+watt+p%2Caps%2C136&sr=1-1
One thing to keep in mind about PSU's is they tend to go on sale more frequently and at better discounts (percentage wise) than many other PC components.
&#x200B;
Cable Extensions:
Antec Sleeved PSU extension cables
https://www.amazon.com/Antec-Supply-Sleeved-Extension-Length/dp/B07C6CLXW8/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_3?keywords=antec+psu+cable+extensions&qid=1556624318&s=electronics&sr=1-3-fkmrnull
&#x200B;
CPU Cooler:
Hyper 212 Evo (Air cooler-Cheap and functional, not pretty)
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212E-20PK-R2-Direct-Contact/dp/B005O65JXI
CLC 240 (AIO water cooling- Pretty and functional, not cheap)
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Liquid-Cooler-Cooling-400-HY-CL24-V1/dp/B074WH52BW/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=clc+240&qid=1556624855&s=electronics&sr=1-1
&#x200B;
&#x200B;
Hope this helps!
All I can reccomend is one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1421625126&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=cooler+master+hyper+212+evo&amp;pebp=1421625127186&amp;peasin=B005O65JXI
Overclock that sucker to 4.3+ and you'll run DayZ a lot better.
When trying to decide on what power your PC needs a good website to use is http://gpu.userbenchmark.com/ - it'll give you a general idea since I get confused with all the "i7/i5/i3 XXXX gen X" nonsense too.
That'll build you a tower. Then you just need external components. Monitor, keyboard, mouse, headset, chair, desk, etc. Depending on what you have available and stuff it can vary so I'll let you price out that stuff.
$1,358 pre-taxes if you go with i7 8700k, and GTX 1060 3 GB. For the tower. Taxes in, plus all the other components you're still looking at pushing close to $2000. That's CND I think. If you do a little shopping around you might get a decent deal on a few items and look into different price points between AMD and Intel if you choose their Board/Chip/GPU combos.
That would work but for a couple dosh more, I would go with the 212 EVO instead. Unless, for some reason, you NEED the T2.
I wouldn't get that Kingston ssd. There was a bait and switch with the unit and the early drives (the ones reviewers got) were much faster than the ones they make now. I would replace that with something else like a Samsung 850 EVO. You may also want to consider getting a hard drive for mass storage, videos take up a lot of space.
You could also get an after market CPU cooler to overclock a bit or just get a quieter PC, although it is not necessary. You don't need anything expensive, a hyper 212 evo.
other than that the build looks fine.
Well, mainly I needed a new CPU because my PC would shut off completely. I thought it was the PSU but when I ran Prime 95 and stress tested the CPU, I got the same result and my PC would shut off.
So I upgraded with these parts:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019EYYNP0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010T6CG7E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005O65JXI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 (haven't installed this yet)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M8ABEIM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 (had a 200GB SATA HDD and it was old and slow. SSD has really helped the speed out)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MMLUYPG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I'm keeping my eye out for the RX480 when that comes out. It's supposed to be as good as the GTX 980 and only cost $200. Waiting on benchmarks with heavy breathing.
Checking Amazon I can get :
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Q7GOM6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
For $109
and
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005O65JXI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
For $30 - I'll need a better cooler since I am not currently over clocking the 2500k and am using stock cooling.
Thats $140 - half the cost of a new 6400 combo - do you think that the 2500k will work for the Oculus Rift, and do you think its worth spending that kind of money to salvage?
I bought this 212 EVO from Amazon and set it up today.
I'm really liking it. Keeps the PC cool, it's fairly silent, and definitely worth the price ($22.50 + tax, free s/h).
It says used because there's damage to packaging, however it's not actually been used.
Good damn I forgot to put it in. No worries tho, I realized that it's not even available in Canada. This one should work too lol.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B005O65JXI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473207943&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=cryorig+h7&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=518BEXKEiiL&amp;ref=plSrch
hello, in my opinion you should not get an nvr for the fact that they are expensive and you can not upgrade them down the line, what i recommend is building a pc base nvr and use the blue iris softwere, my recommendation and my current set up is:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018QDIO2S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005O65JXI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FN9QT34/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J8E8Y5C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TR8YL4W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
if you have an old computer you can save some parts and moeny by reusing the power supply, hdd and maybe the case. all that will be around 250-300, the you will have 200 to buy 4 poe 1080p cameras 50 each, and good things is that you can add more later on, best of the luck, you do need few more parts so let me know if you interested and i will put them together for you. you can take a look at mine at http://mymun2.25u.com:81 demo/demo for username and passowrd.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005O65JXI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497086245&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=hyper+212+evo&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=518BEXKEiiL&amp;ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0045JCFLY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497086295&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=thermal+paste&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31H%2BzKu4DEL&amp;ref=plSrch
This is what I picked up after the h60 wasn't keeping my cpu cool enough to play GTAV.
Build complete!
I ultimately decided to buy the ASUS board and replace the CPU cooler while I was at it. A few caveats about the Sabertooth X58:
Personally, I think these are minor issues as long as you're aware of them. And now that I've told you, you are :)
The 5800 series does not require Dell-specific drivers. In fact, Windows 7 detected and installed drivers for pretty much all my hardware on boot. It took a couple reboots to get everything installed.
Final tally:
TOTAL COST: 322.98 USD + tax
Not bad to get a few more years of life out of the components. And this case and PSU combo should be a solid platform for future upgrades.
I wish you luck with your own build. Feel free to PM me if you have specific questions.
Only if you're going to overclock the CPU. The stock heatsink and cooler that comes with that amd CPU isn't bad... As long as you don't overclock...
However, if you do decide to overclock, I recommend the hyper 212 evo. It's about $33, but is really a fantastic cooler for the price. Very quiet, very efficient, couldn't ask more of it.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005O65JXI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1374791838&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SL75
Actually, I missed that part out.
Get this; the Hyper 212 EVO by Cooler Master:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005O65JXI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1425420991&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=hyper+212+evo&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=518BEXKEiiL&amp;ref=plSrch&amp;pi=AC_SY200_QL40
It's like the most recommended cooler on the planet xD.
i have coolermaster too. this cpu can take a beating i've learned in terms of o/c but safer is better
and i think you misread my comment. if youtube uses flash, then if its not up to date it might stop working in youtube because now csgo is using it for the GUI. i thiiiiiiink i had this issue aaaaages ago but thats when i had a shit pc so i attributed it to that
this cooler
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005O65JXI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
this board with auto o/c (idk if you can find the settings it changes on the interwebs or not)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NAGY3C8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
CPU Coolers usually work with a lot of different boards and CPUs.
For example, THIS CPU cooler works with LGA 2011, 1366, 1151, 1150, 1155, 1156, 775,AMD: FM2+, FM2, FM1, AM3+, AM3, AM2+, AM2 and AM1.
Note: I don't think you really need a new cooler. However, If you want lower temps then you'll need to get a new CPU cooler.
What GPU do you have?
That's definitely a closed-loop system. These are supposed to last 4-5 years, but they have been known to break before that. There's a propylene glycol/water antifreeze fluid (just like a car) inside them, and a little pump (powered by the blue/green/yellow/black cable) pushes warm water from the CPU to the radiator, where is is cooled down and returned to the processor. When they fail they go one of two ways, either they get a crack in them and the water leaks, or the pump quits working.
It's possible that for some reason your motherboard has decided to not run the CPU fan (which is actually the pump) at 100% even though it's overheating (things like quiet mode can do this) and it's possible that when it's running at say 85% that it's not enough juice to start the pump... Check your BIOS for any quiet/silent mode settings and see if you can disable them. If the CPU fan is showing an RPM rating, this is actually the rating of the pump.
If you have gigabyte's tuning software installed, make sure you max out the CPU fan speed. Pumps are not fans, and it's possible that the pump just isn't getting enough power.
If the pump has gone bad, you can replace it with something similar (expect about the same life span and noise level). Personally, I'd switch to air cooling, as there's less that can go wrong. /r/buildapc could probably make suggestions... The only thing you need to be sure of with your next solution is that it works with AM3 processors. Your motherboard is compatible with standard 3-pin fans and 4-pin PWM fans, so you can pretty much use anything.
Personally, I have this a Coolermaster Hyper 212 Evo. It's big. Very big. My case side almost doesn't fit on, but it's super quiet and doesn't depend on a pump. When idle, my CPU fan doesn't even need to run. It relies on heatpipes, which are VERY different from water cooling systems.
If you wanted to, you could switch back to a stock heatsink as well. The one that comes with your processor looks like this, but you may have a problem, it clips to a piece of plastic that appears to be missing from your motherboard (see here). You may have problems fitting OEM parts. I believe the Coolermaster fan I listed above will work even though that bracket is missing, but I'm not 100%
*edit: it looks like there's another black cable going into the heatsink in your top picture... Where does that go?
TP-Link N300 Wireless PCI-Express Adapter (TL-WN881ND) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0079XWMEI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_QQhFT2u3MdxmJ
This card works great and I had no problems installing it. The speeds are just as fast as specified. TP link also have a lower speed card for less. This shouldn't affect latency though which is what you really care about for gaming.
For PC shops, I know of Neo, and Ender Computers. Ender has a location in North Liberty, and a couple in CR. If you're heading up to CR, there's also Barbs. I think the rest of them have closed up though.
Do you not want to wait for it? Are you needing PCIe, PCI? It sounds like USB won't work for you.
N300 PCIe (only a few bucks more than the N150)
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN881ND-Wireless-Express-Low-profile/dp/B0079XWMEI $18.99
N150 PCI (~$10 cheaper than the N300 PCI)
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN881ND-Wireless-Express-Low-profile/dp/B0079XWMEI $13.74
Those could be in your hands wednesday with a free Amazon Prime trial.
+1 for PCI
I game and have never had problems connecting unless it was ISP side (boo comcast). I also stream Netflix and Amazon without any signal issues.
I use [this PCI-E adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN881ND-Wireless-Express-Low-profile/dp/B0079XWMEI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1405104552&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=tp-link+pci+wifi) with good results. They also make regular [PCI] (http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN751ND-Wireless-Adapter-Low-profile/dp/B005FUGPP4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1405104552&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=tp-link+pci+wifi) depending on what you have available. I'm sure the Rosewill one is quite good too.
I also picked up something similar to [this] (http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-ANT2405C-Desktop-Omni-directional-Antenna/dp/B001VEAI74/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1405104686&amp;sr=8-11&amp;keywords=tp-link+antenna) to help with my signal, since my room is quite far from my router. It will give you some flexibility on your antenna placement, and gave me a huge boost in signal.
For your purposes either would probably work but I prefer having the cleaner look of a PCI card and I'm under the assumption that there is better power/bandwith going through PCI. If you do go with USB, I suggest something like [this] (http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1405104921&amp;sr=8-14&amp;keywords=usb+wifi) where you can add on an optional antenna if you have signal issues.
Lots of people get whichever motherboard fits their needs, and pick up PCI cards or USB dongles after.
PCI cards are generally better as they have antennae and can reach higher speeds. Here's a good one
However, with a mini itx build you may not have a PCI slot available, in which case you can get a USB dongle or wifi enabled motherboard. You shouldn't sacrifice features for wifi though.
It'll just go under my desk.
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN881ND-Wireless-Express-Low-profile/dp/B0079XWMEI/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1397116208&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=wifi+card+for+desktop
I just put this in my cart. Will this be difficult for a new user to install?
No it will not.
You said you have a graphics card. That is in the PCIx16 slot. You need a wireless card that will fit in the PCIe slot.
Search on Amazon (or wherever) for Wireless PCIe adapter. Notice how there are less gold pins on the one I linked above? You need one that looks like that (again search for Wireless PCIe adapter).
Here is the one that you linked but in a PCIe version: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN881ND-Wireless-Express-Low-profile/dp/B0079XWMEI/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463158710&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=wireless+pcie
Here's a cheaper one: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN881ND-Wireless-Express-Low-profile/dp/B0079XWMEI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1407336202&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=TP-LINK+TL-WN881ND
I used to use a PCI Express Wifi card, which worked well enough. You can also get a usb wifi dongle. Either should work without much issue on both Windows or Linux.
A motherboard with integrated wifi would work fine too. It just depends on what's most price efficient for you. Normally motherboards with the integrated wifi are a bit more expensive, but I would think the difference between buying a wifi-less motherboard along with some sort of wifi accessory and a wifi integrated motherboard is negligible.
I would recommend this one, it’s great(I have it personally) and it’s on sale for only $15. Does not have 5ghz, but based on what you said i don’t think you’ll need it:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN881ND-Wireless-network-Adapter/dp/B0079XWMEI/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=tp+link+wifi+adapter&amp;qid=1564180751&amp;s=gateway&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;sprefix=tp+link+wifi+a&amp;sr=8-6
So there's this guy for $15 on Amazon after a coupon, up to 300 Mbps (37.5 MB/s) but can only work on your 2.4 GHz WiFi. What you linked is 2.4 or 5 GHz, and up to 800+ Mbps, or over 100 MB/s. Basically it depends on what sort of internet you guys have and how many devices are on your WiFi. Honestly the cheaper one will most likely be enough if all your mom does is online banking and light web browsing. Even for gaming/streaming stuff it would be fine.
You can also consider a PCIe Ethernet port like this to give you the same functionality that your broken Ethernet port would have.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-PCI-Express-Adapter-TL-WN881ND/dp/B0079XWMEI/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494869170&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=wifi+card
This is the card I used for a while. Works great. I do recommend some external antennae though, because they will help, but are definitely not necessary.
Do you know how many Mbps upload/download you have to your home?
It may not be an issue then. Just try out the dongle and if you feel it is giving you issues, you have 3 options.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-PCI-Express-Adapter-TL-WN881ND/dp/B0079XWMEI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494026223&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=TP-Link+PCIE
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494026176&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=TP-Link+AV500+Nano+Powerline+Adapter+Starter+Kit%2C+up+to+500Mbps+%28TL-PA4010KIT%29
USB is usually fine for most people. Internal PCIE cards are also cheap.
pc-kombo shared list
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-7700 | $308.83 @ superbiiz
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-B250M-DS3H | $69.99 @ newegg
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX Series schwarz DDR4-2400, CL14 - 16 GB Kit (16 GB) | $95.0 @ Amazon.com
Storage | WD Blue WD10EZEX (1 GB) | $49.49 @ superbiiz
SSD | SanDisk Plus 120GB TLC SATA600 (120 GB) | $43.74 @ Amazon.com
Video Card | Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1050 Ti WindForce 2X OC | $148.99 @ superbiiz
Case | Thermaltake Versa H22 Midi-Tower - schwarz | $37.99 @ superbiiz
Power Supply | EVGA (430 W) | $40.13 @ Amazon.com
| Total | $794.16
| Generated by pc-kombo 16.02.2017 |
Wifi would have to be added via a wifi card, like https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-PCI-Express-Adapter-TL-WN881ND/dp/B0079XWMEI. I'm not sure about the bestway to add an SD-card reader. Maybe just get an USB reader like https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Reader-RS-MMC-Support-Warranty/dp/B006T9B6R2/?
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-PCI-Express-Adapter-TL-WN881ND/dp/B0079XWMEI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497934099&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=wifi+pci
or this one if you want something better https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Express-Adapter-TL-WDN4800/dp/B007GMPZ0A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497934145&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=wifi+pci
Would this work for this issue? My son has an IBUYPOWER computer that is running wifi (steam) like garbage. I'm a little unsure of what to do
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN881ND-Wireless-network-Adapter/dp/B0079XWMEI/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542148853&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=tp-link+wifi
If you're still looking, if you order $35 worth of stuff on Amazon, This will ship to you tomorrow for free.
If your motherboard came with wifi antennas, it has wifi... With that said, yours doesn't have wifi. Also, I honestly recommend going wired. It's more reliable but if you really need one, here's one...
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN881ND-Wireless-network-Adapter/dp/B0079XWMEI/
Basically any PCIe wifi adapter will work. I'd get something like this
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Express-Adapter-TL-WDN4800/dp/B007GMPZ0A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492674096&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=pcie+wireless
It has more features than you need, but still isn't that expensive at $35
If you just want the bare minimum at $16
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-PCI-Express-Adapter-TL-WN881ND/dp/B0079XWMEI/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492675033&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=pcie+wireless
Assuming you don't live a densely populated area where lots of people will have their own networks, or your router is close to your computer then the second will be perfectly fine. The first will provide a bit more future proofing such as being able to connect to 5ghz networks.
Ah, sorry I forgot to answer this one. It would need to be a PCI-e WIFI card such as:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-PCI-Express-Adapter-TL-WN881ND/dp/B0079XWMEI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492130988&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=pci-e+wifi
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/tTdqqs/gigabyte-wireless-network-card-gcwb867di
Something like this:
TP-LINK TL-WN881ND Wireless N300 PCI Express Adapter
A USB network device would be a USB Dongle.
https://www.amazon.com/SIENOC-Female-Motherboard-Housing-Adapter/dp/B00EOI3VC8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1502574273&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=usb+3+to+2
your google-fu is bad
for wifi, this is the cheap solution, N only
this is better, AC and Bluetooth
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0079XWMEI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_aYmwyb1MGY9E6
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=asc_df_B00B6ZCNGM/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310818960639&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11087499979691478126&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1007296&hvtargid=pla-535905638860&psc=1
I believe the 4 port card and the 5 port card are the same, just another port?
This works for me
The card recommended by Oculus is this one. I have it and it works great for me.
More info in the wiki for this subreddit.
Would this be a better option?
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM
I have no idea what I'm doing here..
You most likely can plug the sensors into the USB2.0 ports and be ok. Don't use the 3.0 if they are incompatible, it will cause stuttering and your entire world inside the headset can shake or not update fast enough. It also will stop you from running the Oculus setup but you can skip that part and try it if you really want to use the 3.0 ports.
I have mine in my 2.0 ports and its working ok but I also ordered a USB 3.0 card. This is the card Oculus recommends: https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1541429905&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Inateck+Superspeed+4+Ports+PCI-E&amp;dpID=51ZO%252B9g92HL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
Sounds a lot like unreliable USB issues which go really wierd if they aren't so bad that the device can partially work.
A Hub isn't going to work here so need a USB 3.0 expansion board.
I have been using this https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=inateck+usb+3.0&amp;qid=1557821083&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=inateck&amp;sr=8-4
For a little over a year for both cameras and HMD.
But first I would try disabling the CPU graphics.
There should be a hundred or five videos on how to do it, it varies with motherboard manufacturer.
There should really be 0 change of bricking anything, that hasn't been true for 15 years or so.
Also, is your PSU up to the task of a new more powerful GPU?
It could even cause issues for USB devices that require a lot o juice, the rift and cameras are much more power hungry than most other USB devices.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=psdc_229185_t1_B00FPIMICA the 4 port is the one you want. i'm not sure but that's what everyone says when its brought up.
Don't know about case (probably just whatever works best for you) but I was having issues with my Vive camera working consistently. Bought one of these to dedicate the USB traffic and haven't had any issues since then.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=psdc_284717_t2_B00FPIMJEW
If you look at the second link and search "oculus" in the reviews you'll find that it's pretty incompatible. I was recommended this one which is still on the cheaper side but seems to work fine for people (I haven't received mine yet). Only con is the color.
Do you mean PCI-e x1? If so thats very common for most USB 3.0 cards providing several ports on the same controller - which means the ports all share the bandwidth.
People putting these in larger slots than x1 are just wasting the slot as these cards do not even have the pins to support more than one lane.
Only USB 3.0 cards that provide multiple controllers as such can provide full USB 3.0 speed at multiple ports in parallel support multiple PCI-e lanes.
So in general, there is no problem in using a PCI-e x1 slot for an additional USB controller card. It is meant to be this way. If the card fits the slot, you are fine.
https://www.amazon.de/Inateck-KTU3FR-4P-expresskarte-SATA-Stromanschluss-Strom-Y-Kabel/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493373480&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=inateck+usb+3
I fixed all my Rift tracking issues adding this powered USB PCI card. Works like a charm now.
https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B00B6ZCNGM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
By compatible I mean "known working" with the Rift S. During CV1 roomscale, some cards had issues with multiple sensors and even now you have to be careful. Oculus recommended a PCIe card like this for rift, but it does not seem to work with Rift S.
So before you buy anything search the sub, the web and take a look at all reviews for someone confirming compatability with Rift S.
But I must honestly say I cannot guarantee that this eliminates all issues.
Additionally this should be kept in mind:
I just bought this one, as recommended by some people on the subreddit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cJ6LDbRE4KNKA
I think it solved a lot of my issues
I’ve had usb problems before, this USB card was the answer for me and many other people. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_G-BZDb56EDZVH
The two front ones ABSOLUTELY need to be in 3.0 slots, first I bought a insignia two port USB 3.0 pci-e card and it would only register one of the sensors as 3.0 and the one that was only tracking 2.0 kept freezing the whole headset. Then I purchased an inoteck 4 port USB 3.0 pci-e card and was able to get it work with 0 freezing. The inoteck has to have some power from the PSU and the sata power cable didn't work, I had to use the molex - sata adapater that came with it in order for it to install the drivers properly. Could just be random hiccup though?
Inoteck 4 port - https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-KT4001-SuperSpeed-Ports-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521219427&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=inateck+usb+3.0+4+port
Here's a good brand and model. $23
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-KT4001-SuperSpeed-Ports-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520763709&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=inateck+usb+3.0
But you might check your mobo to see if you have a 19 pin usb 3.0 header, and then get this instead.
https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-2-Port-Internal-Connector-RDCR-11004/dp/B007YDJJFS/ref=sr_1_19?s=wireless&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520764116&amp;sr=1-19&amp;keywords=usb+front+panel
Generally, there is one usb controller for two ports that are side by side. https://www.amazon.com/Express-SuperSpeed-Adapter-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519863680&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=startech+usb+3.0 has four controllers while Inatech https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 has one. Each usb controller is capable of handling certain amount of data bandwidth and constellation sensor running on usb 3.0 sends large amount of data so one usb 3.0 controller for one sensor.
I had an issue with this too, but others on this Reddit page suggested to me that I could use a PCI-E to USB 3 expansion like this.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM
I haven't gone ahead and bought it so far though. As I mentioned in an earlier comment, I'm also wary of whether my i-7 860 will be good enough to power VR, so together with having to purchase this USB expansion plus a better graphics card it's left me wondering whether I'd just be better of waiting until later in the year and buying a brand new computer instead.
Read the wiki. It has suggested hardware.
Edit: here it is
Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card - Interface USB 3.0 4-Port Express Card Desktop with 15 Pin SATA Power Connector, [ Include with A 4pin to 2x15pin Cable + A 15pin to 2x 15pin SATA Y-Cable ] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bwxGzbK9DWNF3
My Problems are now all gone with the Inateck Card.
http://www.amazon.de/Inateck-Expresskarte-20-Pin-Stecker-Connector-Strom-Y-Kabel/dp/B00FPIMJEW?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&amp;smid=A5JH7MGCI556L
Really nice find! I'm assuming your computer is already bluetooth compatible?
If not, at least for me and others on the PSMoveService Google group, (Great place to ask questions and get help with troubleshooting) you have to have a bluetooth adapter to get the PSMove controllers to pair to your computer.
(I suggest this bluetooth adapter which is used by myself and others for the PSMove controllers)
(Don't forget that first time setup requires a micro USB cable for first time paring)
If so, just be aware that the Playstation Eye takes up a lot of USB bandwidth and you have to plan out where you plug in your devices very carefully for them to all track at the full 60fps.
I'd suggest downloading something like USBTreeView before starting as this will allow you to check your USB root hubs when plugging in your cameras and possibly bluetooth adapter.
Some things to keep in mind when setting this up are:
Try to isolate your cameras away from other high bandwidth devices on the same USB root hub, considering we're using an HMD with an IR camera that also takes up a lot of bandwidth so remember that too.
(This is what my USBTreeView looks like, make sure that your cameras are on USBs with the little H next to them meaning their high-speed.
("USB Composite Device - Camera" is the IR camera)
("ASUS USB-BT400" Is the bluetooth adapter)
"USB Composite Device - Audio, Camera" Is the Playstation Eye)
Most of the time the most cameras you'll be able to get away with are 2 cameras on one motherboard and the front panel USB connections included, unless you buy a PCI/PCI-E USB expansion card for more USBs and root hubs.
(PSMoveService reccomends the Inateck PCI-E to USB 3.0 5-Port
Most likely the controllers you bought were part of the older batches which were manufactured around 5-6 years ago when they first came out, so be sure to check the batteries and you can buy replacements here. (Although you have to open the controller up to access them)
Some of the newer controllers which were released with PSVR have their magnetometers disabled which are used for orientation in PSMoveService so be weary of that if their from the latest batch.
In conclusion, just follow videos like these (This and this) (You can just follow the PSMoveService portion of it) and for troubleshooting either resort to the comments of those videos, the offical Github documentation, post back here and I can try to help, or post in the Google group for help.
Aside from everything else good luck on setting it up and please excuse any grammatical errors you see in this post, it's over 3160 letters long.
I'm talking about something like this.
Inateck PCI-E to USB 3.0 (5 Ports) PCI Express Card and 15-Pin Power Connector, Red (KT5001) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPIMJEW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_H9C6CbF4E3KYB
You would need 2, 1 for each guest. You can pass them through to each guest just like your graphics card.
BTW, I'm using the card I linked to above in my build running proxmox as the host and it works beautifully with both Windows and Linux.
Won't work. Need something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Express-Connector-Controller-Internal/dp/B00FPIMJEW/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459391338&amp;sr=8-1-fkmr0&amp;keywords=inateck+pcie+usb3
That card is ok but it doesn't have a front header expansion. I like this one a lot more.
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Express-Connector-Controller-Internal/dp/B00FPIMJEW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500761442&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=usb+3.0+card+pci-e
I use a inateck kt5001 (5xUSB3, https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Express-15-Pin-Connector-KT5001/dp/B00FPIMJEW ), works like a dream (got xbox/steam controller and oculus rift). This is on my main rig running arch, but it shouldn't be any different on unraid.
I would buy something like this then.
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-KT5001-5-Port-Express-Connector/dp/B00FPIMJEW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520111823&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=usb+pci+card
Here is the link for the Spaniards or just another European alternative http://www.amazon.es/Inateck-conector-alimentaci%C3%B3n-adaptador-Controller/dp/B00FPIMJEW/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452283594&amp;sr=1-14&amp;keywords=inateck+3.0
Right?? It's weird, they changed it. The link used to go here. I guess the smaller one is cheaper so that might be why. they're both from the same company.
This should work for you
Has 2 external USB ports, and a header for Front USB port.
Edit: This one may be better, also cheaper
This is on BIOS version 1201 (AGESA 1.0.0.3ABBA). Kernel is not patched for ACS. IOMMU group separation could use some work. I've worked around this by adding a Fresco Logic PCI-E USB card to my setup; used it previously for VR and now it's working great as dedicated USB ports for a VM. I have WiFi disabled, not sure where it goes. I've also got an NVMe drive (group 21) and GTX 1080 (group 25) passed through with zero problems.
IOMMU Group 0:
00:01.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1482]
IOMMU Group 1:
00:01.1 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse GPP Bridge [1022:1483]
IOMMU Group 10:
00:14.0 SMBus [0c05]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] FCH SMBus Controller [1022:790b] (rev 61)
00:14.3 ISA bridge [0601]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] FCH LPC Bridge [1022:790e] (rev 51)
IOMMU Group 11:
00:18.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Matisse Device 24: Function 0 [1022:1440]
00:18.1 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Matisse Device 24: Function 1 [1022:1441]
00:18.2 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Matisse Device 24: Function 2 [1022:1442]
00:18.3 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Matisse Device 24: Function 3 [1022:1443]
00:18.4 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Matisse Device 24: Function 4 [1022:1444]
00:18.5 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Matisse Device 24: Function 5 [1022:1445]
00:18.6 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Matisse Device 24: Function 6 [1022:1446]
00:18.7 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Matisse Device 24: Function 7 [1022:1447]
IOMMU Group 12:
01:00.0 Non-Volatile memory controller [0108]: Samsung Electronics Co Ltd NVMe SSD Controller SM951/PM951 [144d:a802] (rev 01)
IOMMU Group 13:
02:00.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Device [1022:57ad]
IOMMU Group 14:
03:01.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Device [1022:57a3]
IOMMU Group 15:
03:02.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Device [1022:57a3]
IOMMU Group 16:
03:03.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Device [1022:57a3]
IOMMU Group 17:
03:05.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Device [1022:57a3]
IOMMU Group 18:
03:08.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Device [1022:57a4]
08:00.0 Non-Essential Instrumentation [1300]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse Reserved SPP [1022:1485]
08:00.1 USB controller [0c03]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Matisse USB 3.0 Host Controller [1022:149c]
08:00.3 USB controller [0c03]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Matisse USB 3.0 Host Controller [1022:149c]
IOMMU Group 19:
03:09.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Device [1022:57a4]
09:00.0 SATA controller [0106]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] FCH SATA Controller [AHCI mode] [1022:7901] (rev 51)
IOMMU Group 2:
00:01.2 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse GPP Bridge [1022:1483]
IOMMU Group 20:
03:0a.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Device [1022:57a4]
0a:00.0 SATA controller [0106]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] FCH SATA Controller [AHCI mode] [1022:7901] (rev 51)
IOMMU Group 21:
04:00.0 Non-Volatile memory controller [0108]: Samsung Electronics Co Ltd NVMe SSD Controller SM981/PM981/PM983 [144d:a808]
IOMMU Group 22:
05:00.0 VGA compatible controller [0300]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD/ATI] Baffin [Radeon RX 460/560D / Pro 450/455/460/555/555X/560/560X] [1002:67ef] (rev cf)
05:00.1 Audio device [0403]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD/ATI] Baffin HDMI/DP Audio [Radeon RX 550 640SP / RX 560/560X] [1002:aae0]
IOMMU Group 23:
06:00.0 USB controller [0c03]: Fresco Logic FL1100 USB 3.0 Host Controller [1b73:1100] (rev 10)
IOMMU Group 24:
07:00.0 Ethernet controller [0200]: Realtek Semiconductor Co., Ltd. RTL8111/8168/8411 PCI Express Gigabit Ethernet Controller [10ec:8168] (rev 26)
IOMMU Group 25:
0b:00.0 VGA compatible controller [0300]: NVIDIA Corporation GP104 [GeForce GTX 1080] [10de:1b80] (rev a1)
0b:00.1 Audio device [0403]: NVIDIA Corporation GP104 High Definition Audio Controller [10de:10f0] (rev a1)
IOMMU Group 3:
00:02.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1482]
IOMMU Group 4:
00:03.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1482]
IOMMU Group 5:
00:03.1 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse GPP Bridge [1022:1483]
IOMMU Group 6:
00:04.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1482]
IOMMU Group 7:
00:05.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1482]
IOMMU Group 8:
00:07.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1482]
00:07.1 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse Internal PCIe GPP Bridge 0 to bus[E:B] [1022:1484]
0c:00.0 Non-Essential Instrumentation [1300]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse PCIe Dummy Function [1022:148a]
IOMMU Group 9:
00:08.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1482]
00:08.1 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse Internal PCIe GPP Bridge 0 to bus[E:B] [1022:1484]
00:08.2 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse Internal PCIe GPP Bridge 0 to bus[E:B] [1022:1484]
00:08.3 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse Internal PCIe GPP Bridge 0 to bus[E:B] [1022:1484]
0d:00.0 Non-Essential Instrumentation [1300]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse Reserved SPP [1022:1485]
0d:00.1 Encryption controller [1080]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse Cryptographic Coprocessor PSPCPP [1022:1486]
0d:00.3 USB controller [0c03]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Matisse USB 3.0 Host Controller [1022:149c]
0d:00.4 Audio device [0403]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse HD Audio Controller [1022:1487]
0e:00.0 SATA controller [0106]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] FCH SATA Controller [AHCI mode] [1022:7901] (rev 51)
0f:00.0 SATA controller [0106]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] FCH SATA Controller [AHCI mode] [1022:7901] (rev 51)
You can get a USB 3.0 PCI-E card instead.
https://www.amazon.ca/Inateck-KT5001-5-Port-Express-Connector/dp/B00FPIMJEW
Yep! I bought this card. Works just fine.
Are your drivers for your USB Hub Windows 10 default drivers or are the updated drivers for the Hub it self from the manufacturer?
EDIT I had the same issue until I bought and installed https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMJEW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Nope, just run this script from the arch wiki:
!/bin/bash
My output is below. What you are looking out for is mainly to find at least one USB controller that is in its own group. For my VM I pass the amd usb 3.0 controller(group 20). I then could use the onboard asmedia usb 3.1 controller for my host, but instead I just use a pci express card for that. I use this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMJEW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 since it is very stable. The asmedia controller isn't the most stable thing in the world.
&#x200B;
IOMMU Group 0:
00:01.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-1fh) PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1452]
IOMMU Group 1:
00:01.1 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) PCIe GPP Bridge [1022:1453]
IOMMU Group 10:
00:08.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-1fh) PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1452]
IOMMU Group 11:
00:08.1 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) Internal PCIe GPP Bridge 0 to Bus B [1022:1454]
IOMMU Group 12:
00:14.0 SMBus [0c05]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] FCH SMBus Controller [1022:790b] (rev 59)
00:14.3 ISA bridge [0601]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] FCH LPC Bridge [1022:790e] (rev 51)
IOMMU Group 13:
00:18.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) Data Fabric: Device 18h; Function 0 [1022:1460]
00:18.1 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) Data Fabric: Device 18h; Function 1 [1022:1461]
00:18.2 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) Data Fabric: Device 18h; Function 2 [1022:1462]
00:18.3 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) Data Fabric: Device 18h; Function 3 [1022:1463]
00:18.4 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) Data Fabric: Device 18h; Function 4 [1022:1464]
00:18.5 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) Data Fabric: Device 18h; Function 5 [1022:1465]
00:18.6 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) Data Fabric: Device 18h; Function 6 [1022:1466]
00:18.7 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) Data Fabric: Device 18h; Function 7 [1022:1467]
IOMMU Group 14:
01:00.0 Non-Volatile memory controller [0108]: Phison Electronics Corporation E12 NVMe Controller [1987:5012] (rev 01)
IOMMU Group 15:
03:00.0 USB controller [0c03]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Device [1022:43d0] (rev 01)
03:00.1 SATA controller [0106]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] 400 Series Chipset SATA Controller [1022:43c8] (rev 01)
03:00.2 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] 400 Series Chipset PCIe Bridge [1022:43c6] (rev 01)
16:00.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] 400 Series Chipset PCIe Port [1022:43c7] (rev 01)
16:01.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] 400 Series Chipset PCIe Port [1022:43c7] (rev 01)
16:02.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] 400 Series Chipset PCIe Port [1022:43c7] (rev 01)
16:03.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] 400 Series Chipset PCIe Port [1022:43c7] (rev 01)
16:04.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] 400 Series Chipset PCIe Port [1022:43c7] (rev 01)
16:08.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] 400 Series Chipset PCIe Port [1022:43c7] (rev 01)
1b:00.0 USB controller [0c03]: Fresco Logic FL1100 USB 3.0 Host Controller [1b73:1100] (rev 10)
1c:00.0 USB controller [0c03]: ASMedia Technology Inc. ASM1142 USB 3.1 Host Controller [1b21:1242]
IOMMU Group 16:
1d:00.0 VGA compatible controller [0300]: NVIDIA Corporation GP104 [GeForce GTX 1070] [10de:1b81] (rev a1)
1d:00.1 Audio device [0403]: NVIDIA Corporation GP104 High Definition Audio Controller [10de:10f0] (rev a1)
IOMMU Group 17:
1e:00.0 VGA compatible controller [0300]: NVIDIA Corporation GP106 [GeForce GTX 1060 3GB] [10de:1c02] (rev a1)
1e:00.1 Audio device [0403]: NVIDIA Corporation GP106 High Definition Audio Controller [10de:10f1] (rev a1)
IOMMU Group 18:
1f:00.0 Non-Essential Instrumentation [1300]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Zeppelin/Raven/Raven2 PCIe Dummy Function [1022:145a]
IOMMU Group 19:
1f:00.2 Encryption controller [1080]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) Platform Security Processor [1022:1456]
IOMMU Group 2:
00:01.3 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) PCIe GPP Bridge [1022:1453]
IOMMU Group 20:
1f:00.3 USB controller [0c03]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) USB 3.0 Host Controller [1022:145c]
IOMMU Group 21:
20:00.0 Non-Essential Instrumentation [1300]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Zeppelin/Renoir PCIe Dummy Function [1022:1455]
IOMMU Group 22:
20:00.2 SATA controller [0106]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] FCH SATA Controller [AHCI mode] [1022:7901] (rev 51)
IOMMU Group 23:
20:00.3 Audio device [0403]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) HD Audio Controller [1022:1457]
IOMMU Group 3:
00:02.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-1fh) PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1452]
IOMMU Group 4:
00:03.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-1fh) PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1452]
IOMMU Group 5:
00:03.1 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) PCIe GPP Bridge [1022:1453]
IOMMU Group 6:
00:03.2 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) PCIe GPP Bridge [1022:1453]
IOMMU Group 7:
00:04.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-1fh) PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1452]
IOMMU Group 8:
00:07.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-1fh) PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1452]
IOMMU Group 9:
00:07.1 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) Internal PCIe GPP Bridge 0 to Bus B [1022:1454]
It's a Fresco Logic FL1100EX. This is the only card Oculus has apparently tested. Though some users are still reporting issues.
I did, get the Inateck they recommend. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMJEW
replace with .co.uk if in Europe. I've had these problems for a long time and it was part of why I didn't use my rift that much. Be careful and get the newest drivers though.
Crap, I ordered this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMJEW Hopefully it works as well as the one you linked. Looks pretty similar.
Do you have an open Pcie slot on your mobo? If you don't have a USB 3.0 card already, you will need one. Your X58 Mobo doesn't have USB3.0.
People are saying this one passes the compatability checker:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMJEW
Your CPU and motherboard might be good though, yes. It all depends on how much single thread performance is required on the Rift. If you find that your CPU useage is pegging ~100% utilization while using the Rift, then overclock it to 4.2GHz+ using the many guides on the net. If you still can't maintain 90+FPS after that, then you will need an upgrade to a newer architecture like Haswell, Haswell-E, Broadwell, or Skylake.
Check the FAQ in the sidebar. Most people are suggesting this one :
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMJEW
It probably won't because those share bandwidth between ports. If you have a spare PCI-E slot this will work: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMJEW (the 5 port version)
Well, after looking around i had this same issue but mine would come up and say it was not supported. You have the Asmedia USB 3.0 chipset which isn't supported by Oculus. The FAQ is here https://support.oculus.com/help/oculus/1798990480336565
They have the driver at the bottom but sadly the website isn't working right now for that link. You can use 2.0 and be alright. If you can get a new USB card for your desktop. The one i got because of the same issue you have is this one and i haven't had a issue.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMJEW
I can't help with the errors, but I can recommend this card as it works well with my two Windows 10 VMs under 6.2.4: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMJEW/
Can pass the entire card to the VM and just plug USB peripherals normally. 100x easier.
I really don't understand what the first three words of the tiltle are however here is a parts list.
CPU: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Intel-4690K-Processor-LGA1150-Socket/dp/B00KPRWB9G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483406302&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=i5+4690
Motherboard: https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Motherboards/MSI-Z97-PC-Mate-Intel-LGA1150-DDR3/B00K8KPXUO/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;refRID=C6WMM67CFYZGXRDJ3CV6&amp;th=1
PSU: https://www.amazon.co.uk/EVGA-100-W1-0500-K3-500W-Power-Supply/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=sr_1_3?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483406385&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=500W+PSU
RAM: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Crucial-Ballistix-2400MT-288-Pin-Memory/dp/B00MTSWFMM/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483406441&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=16+GB+ram
GPU: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gigabyte-Nvidia-1060-GDDR5-PCI-E/dp/B01K7I7M00/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483406507&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=GTX+1060
Case: https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Computer-Cases/Bitfenix-Nova-Midi-Tower-Case-Window-BFX-NOV-100-KKWSK-RP/B016CMS1IW/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483406553&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=Case
Hard Drive:https://www.amazon.co.uk/Blue-Desktop-Hard-Disk-Drive/dp/B0088PUEPK/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483406591&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=Hard+Drive
OS: https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/kmd/Windows-10-Home-32-bit-64-bit-English-International/B0111YEBY4/ref=pd_vtph_65_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=JK3P3BCFE2WM107F2TVX
That should be everything you need to game comfortably with your budget. I did not include a monitor as I will assume that you already have one, if not here is a link.
Monitor:https://www.amazon.co.uk/ASUS-VS248HR-inch-Gaming-Monitor/dp/B014RKZ81O/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483406751&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=Monitor
You don't have to spend an arm and a leg on a PSU to get one that isn't going to completely fail you or damage your other, more expensive parts. Amazon has the EVGA 500w for $37.48. It's a low-cost option that won't damage the goods. Check the JonnyGuru site for reliable reviews on power supplies and see for yourself.
http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Continuous-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU?ie=UTF8&amp;keywords=evga%20psu&amp;qid=1465464562&amp;ref_=sr_1_1&amp;sr=8-1
that would save you a few bucks.
I think I'd need at least 500W to be on the safe side - the PC has an i5-6400 and a 750ti. So I'd rather have more than less when it comes to the PSU. With the prebuilt I have, the PSU is at the top of the case.
There was a video someone made on replacing the PSU for this particular PC. But the only other question I have, I guess, would be if any of these PSUs are safe to use and a reliable when it comes to stability?
If you're willing to lose modular cables, this should be good.
EVGA 500 W1, 80+ WHITE 500W, 3 Year Warranty, Power Supply 100-W1-0500-KR, Black
$29.99
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H33SFJU/?tag=pcpapi-20
GTX 750 TI required 60 W
and Minimum System Power Requirement (W) 300 W
i would recommend u buy new PSU and GPU maybe GTX 1050
You can calculate how much power u need in this site: https://outervision.com/power-supply-calculator
psu:https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511941746&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=psu
or
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139201
GPU
1050: https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-02G-P4-6150-KR/dp/B01M9FD3PC/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511941832&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=1050
This should be fine. I have one running an i5 and 970 in my htpc. Highly rated.
Yeah theres 500W 80+ EVGA PSU for $35 on Amazon Warehouse Deals link
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-Optiplex-7010-Intel-Core-i5-3570-3-40GHz-4-Gb-2TB-HDD-Working-Free-Ship/392314686107?hash=item5b57c70a9b:g:4H4AAOSwzkRdBZ3m:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!72701!US!-1
$120 for chassis, MOBO, CPU, RAM, HDD
$80 GT 1030
(Literally anywhere)
https://www.amazon.com/Patriot-Signature-PC3-12800-1600MHz-PSD34G160081/dp/B00AASUPHK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=4Gb+DDR3&amp;qid=1562156435&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;psc=1
$17 4Gb DDR3
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=500+watt+power+supply&amp;qid=1562156603&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
500 Watt PSU
Check my work!
Parts list for an entry level ‘Gaming’ PC, I would recommend you go this route, especially if you plan on upgrading further down the road
This should be pretty similar for console performance and notice it DOSE NOT cost $500-$600
If you buy a used one make sure it has some sort of quality certification. Something like a "80 plus bronze" just as an example.
&#x200B;
To be honest though new power supplies are not expensive but they are something you do NOT want to cheap out on. It's the source of power for ALL of the parts in your computer and a shitty power supply can ruin everything. Something like [this](https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=sr\_1\_2?keywords=power+supply&amp;qid=1562432520&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-2](https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=power+supply&amp;qid=1562432520&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-2) will work for a decent build and has a 80 plus certification. Something like [this](https://www.ebay.com/itm/Supermax-400-Watt-ATX-PC-Computer-Desktop-Power-Supply-SATA-20-24-NEW/283470277822?hash=item4200252cbe:g:TuEAAOSwE9lZsbr1](https://www.ebay.com/itm/Supermax-400-Watt-ATX-PC-Computer-Desktop-Power-Supply-SATA-20-24-NEW/283470277822?hash=item4200252cbe:g:TuEAAOSwE9lZsbr1) I wouldn't touch with a 10 foot pole.
edit: typo
> Seems like a unbelievable price to performance return point.
It really is, ever since AMD released Ryzen 1000 series, Intel's been feeling the heat. Well priced products that perform great is always good for competition.
As far as cases, I've been eyeballing this one because it has good cooling, with an acceptable price. Only real drawback is that it doesn't have a slot for an optical disk drive. Coolermaster has one with an ODD, but it isn't sold in the USA.
You may be able to re-use your case, unless it's from a prebuilt computer (particularly Dell / Alienware) your new board should fit in it just fine.
I was going to recommend This mATX case, but decided against it because I don't think your video card will fit. If you've got a stubby / short 1060 it might work, but I wouldn't bet on it.
This case is the cheapest case I can find that I'm confident will fit everything you have. $40ish.
8 GB RAM is what you need if you're gaming. 4 GB will bottleneck. If you get a 2X4 GB combo now, you can upgrade to 16 GB later with an additional 2X4 GB kit. In the meantime, look up how to take advantage of "Dual Channel RAM" on your motherboard. Also, make sure you get 3000mhz RAM, the speed makes a considerable difference on AMD CPUs.
2X4GB (8 GB total): [link] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0157UPYZ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WXmiDbH8KM7MB). You can select 2X8GB (16 total) if you want, but you don't need it for most games now, and if you prefer older games anyhow, it's a waste of your budget.
If you're going to splurge on anything in your new build, I highly recommend it being your PSU, especially since your old PSU likely killed your motherboard. A modular PSU will look much more tidy, since you can unplug cables that you don't need. I personally trust Corsair's RM series, though the lowest wattage (cheapest) one is still $130: Link.
If that's too much, or if your case doesn't have a Window and aesthetics don't matter, and old 500 watt PSU will do fine. 600 watts if you want some breathing room. Keep a look out for anything with a 3-5 year warranty from the manufacturer (look on their website for this info, don't trust Amazon); those are typically built better and are less likely to fail.
This is the cheapest PSU that I'd personally recommend. 500 Watts is fine for what you have, I think 450 watts is pushing on the "too low" side though.
Edit: All my links are ugly, give me a few minutes to tidy up.
Edit of edit: links tidied up. Also, 450 watts, not $450. (Near the end.)
Yeah, you should upgrade. I think the overall minimal is 400watts for being the standard but for you, I would just get a 600 watt. You can get some cheap name brand power supplys on Amazon.EVGA 500 W1, 80+ WHITE 500W, 3 Year Warranty, Power Supply 100-W1-0500-KR, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nx5mDbF3WQ7HR
If you have money to burn, then go big. But for me, the past 5 years I never had a problem with my 70 dollar psu.
Also this one that is 600 watts. CORSAIR VS Series, VS650, 650 Watt, 80+ White Certified, Non-Modular Power Supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078HJ2RCW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cy5mDbH2W1015
For sure! Some of your parts on your list come from OutletPC, so here's the cheapest 580 I could find (http://www.outletpc.com/mq1372-gigabyte-radeon-rx-580-gvrx580gaming4gd-4gb-256bi.html?utm_source=mq1372-gigabyte-radeon-rx-580-gvrx580gaming4gd-4gb-256bi&amp;utm_medium=shopping%2Bengine&amp;utm_campaign=pcpartpicker&amp;utm_content=Gigabyte%2B-%2BVideo%20Cards)
I didn't read your whole post at the time of posting my comment. If you're an Amazon Prime member, this PSU is worth it for $30 (https://smile.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494877028&amp;sr=8-10&amp;keywords=crucial+ballistix+sport+8gb&amp;sa-no-redirect=1)
Looks pretty good for a budget PC, I'd look at spending $30 more on a r9 270 since it's quite a bit better.
Swap out the PSU for a similar quality 500w one and you'll have plenty of power for no extra cost.
If there's any way you can stretch to a cheap i5 it'll be well worth it as more games start utilizing multicores. It's another $60 but if you can't do another $90 then I'd go for the graphics card upgrade instead.
I used to have the same 710 before I switched to a 1060, you will need a new psu. I would recommend this one , it is cheap and stays at 500w.
I'm no expert with PSUs so this is just my opinion. but if you're willing to put a bit more money into it EVGA makes some good cheap PSU for about $60 (USD) new
but here's 1 for about $40 EVGA 500 W1 that comes with a 3 year warranty
A 500W EVGA power supply is reasonably priced at $35 and good enough for nearly any budget and midrange build:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H33SFJU
You can bring it over to your next build when you upgrade.
Scared shitless of frying my parts so I'm going with this for a PSU:http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Continuous-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1457828249&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=500+W
I do think I'll be OCing the G3258, maybe try for 4GhZ.
If you can buy from Amazon, get this Crucial BX100 instead. It's a vastly superior SSD.
The Tacens doesn't have a very good reputation either. A servicable, inexpensive PSU from Amazon would be the EVGA 500W. It's a lower quality unit than I would normally recommend for your build, but it's better than either of the other two. A better quality unit, though more expensive, is the SuperFlower GoldenGreen 450 HX.
Edit: I don't speak or read Spanish, so I hope these parts are actually available :)