Best computer monitor accessories according to redditors

My office recently renovated our cubicles and the three new cubicles for me and my co-workers were all back-on.

Before the renovations started, me and my co-workers demanded that we get some privacy. We occasionally deal with confidential stuff... and it's just shitty to be back-on. So, my manager looked into some options and the cubicle supplier had a ready-made solution. This is what mine look likes.

The door makes a world of difference and it didn't cost my department very much more.

I also have a couple extra things that I've bought myself. One is a little push-button "doorbell". It doesn't make any noise, but it lights up bright-blue LEDs under my monitor.

Another is a simple mirror. More often than not, I know someone's coming to my cubicle before they even push the doorbell.

NTA. I would be so annoyed too. You’re paying money for this and it’s your future at stake.

Have you tried a privacy screen so that the only way he can view your screen is if his face is planted next to yours? Here’s one:

15.6" Akamai Computer Privacy Screen (16:9) - Black Security Shield - Laptop Monitor Protector - UV & Blue Light Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012V5A7D6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vxGLDb2W5N58Q

Slap a NUC behind a monitor and call it a day?

literally slap

As much as I love an overengineered solution, I'd just clip one of these to each of my monitors:

http://amzn.com/B008AWOGWS

I play discreetly at my office, but I'm fortunate to have a computer that faces away from everyone I work with. One thing you can get that could help is a privacy screen for your desktop monitor like this.
I also make sure not to do anything that sounds suspicious, like playing a game where I'm hitting a lot of keys. I even got a silent mouse so my coworkers can't hear how much I'm clicking. And yes, I do still get all my work done! xD

no, get a good 1440p or 4k IPS display with a good enough graphics card, and buy a spyder :

http://www.amazon.com/ColorVision-S2EL100-Spyder-3-Elite/dp/B000X4X35C

calibrate that bad boy up, you will be in pretty good shape, apple monitors are spectacular, no question, but they are not the end all be all.

Get one of those mirrors you can stick on your monitor. It will let you see behind you. Here's a link to one on amazon. I bet you can find them cheaper at an office supply store. Sorry for crappy formatting; I'm on mobile.

Clip on mirror (amazon)

I have a concern about the HDMI monitor converter they are offering. There are more than one converter board out there, and they are designed to match different monitors. Arcade1Up cabinets do not all have the same display. Very similar, but there are a few different ones. As I understand it, if you get the wrong hdmi converter board, it can damage the display. Unless they know something I don’t, I don’t understand how they can sell just one converter for all Arcade1up models.

The “right” thing to do is look at the back of your display and find the model number. It’s a pretty big sticker. My centipede cabinet has M170ETN01 1. Then, search Amazon for “hdmi controller <model number>. That’s how I found this. Notice how it has the display model number in the product description:
https://www.amazon.com/VSDISPLAY-Controller-M170ETN01-1-WYD170SKD-Monitor/dp/B07MRJG3HT/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=HDMI+controller+M170etn01&qid=1567351373&s=gateway&sr=8-2

Got them on Amazon! Sorry, I can’t find the My Melody one. :( I’m just letting you know that it’s actually really tight, I had to force my bf to put it on my monitors cuz he was against it 😂

Cover the camera with smart glass. Switch it on and off remotely

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00N53XHSQ/

That will make the camera invisible while guests are there.

you probably also want a rear-view mirror for your monitor
e.g.
http://www.amazon.com/Clip-On-Mirror-Monitors-Anywhere-Modtek/dp/B008AWOGWS

Amazon has them.

Get a screen attachment that filters out the light.

It's cheaper and you don't have to worry about violating AR 670-1.

Your best bet is to get the active Benfei adapter for $8 off Amazon.

It can’t do RGB at max resolution but if you set your output to yprbr it can do 1920x1200@85hz.

If you WANT you can waste money on a Sunix and get full RGB, but honestly it’s not worth the 5-10x the price depending on stock and they all have some issues where the bottom band of pixels displays on top.

The benfei is also amazing for PS3 XBox360 etc.

Sunix https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JART8HA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2ukCDb60YRCWX

Benfei https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KLKQN9U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wykCDbQ6MSA1X

The fuck am I being downvoted for? Nothing I said was incorrect. I own every product on this list and the FW900...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WJOYG6Y/


Here's an example.

I use this headless HDMI adapter for both VR and Steam Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EK05WTY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's a bit pricey, but it does a great job.

This is the one I use;
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003O55U8K

This one is well recommended, often paired with the OSSC;
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B7CEOVK/

Both are decent quality DACs and will not introduce any delay. That said, both (as well as most other) HDMI and DP DACs are not capable of pushing terribly high resolution/refresh combos due to bandwidth constraints; Most DACs top out around 225mhz or so.

If you're looking to make use of a higher end PC CRT and push high resolution/refresh rates, you'll want to go for one of a few DP to VGA adapters which are actually capable of high bandwidth, much closer to or exceeding what the built in DACs on old cards were capable of.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JART8HA/

Or if in Europe, Delock 62967 (Ignore quoted bandwidth on this one, it's capable of well into the mid 300s if not more)

Sunix DPU3000

There are Thunderbolt 3 graphics docks that use the DisplayLink 6000-series chipset with two DisplayPort 1.2 outputs and multiple USB 3.0 ports. However, compatibility with Macs is spotty.

I have a Thunderbolt 3 to 2 x DisplayPort 1.2 adapter and it works like a charm. There are some splitters that also include gigabit Ethernet (that doesn't matter to you because Mac Minis still have Ethernet, thankfully). However, there's no USB output.

Try to disconnect any type of connectors you don't necessarily need to complete POST and get a working signal to your screen. Things like USB, HD-Audio, RESET-SW etc. could be faulty and could get the pc stuck in a reset-loop. Try to remove 1 DIMM at a time and switch the channel they're inserted on to rule out damage to the DIMM-Slots. Check if your cables are working or if the display is broken, try different ones.

What kind of PSU are you using? Does it have enough power for your system? have you tested it with a PSU-Tester ?

If all fails it might be a good idea to get a PCIe POST Reader to check if your system completes POST

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EDIT: After looking at your photo again it looks like there is a single DVI-port in the top left corner, try to connect your screen to this one and check whether the BIOS is set to use onboard graphics

Ouf, concussions can really get rough.

Had a minor concussion a few years back that I still feel effects from, actually :/ there are times where I just can't even look at my computer screen without getting severe headaches and feeling like I'm going to vomit. It's terrible.

No clue what the severity is, but highly recommend installing a blue light filter, or having something like this on your phone/computer. It REALLY helped recovery and with post-concussion syndrome!

Grats on getting to play in the playoffs, good luck next season, and good luck with the recovery!

Amazon says you can get it for $75+shipping ... for 6" x 9"! lol ... in September when it comes back in stock.

I'm confused are you asking or telling?

Every panel is different (even two panels that are the exact model will need different calibration settings) and each users preferences will also be different, if the blue light reduction looks good to you go for it.

There are numerous calibration sites to help you get started here is one I've used in the past http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/

If you are doing professional work then I highly recommend you buy a calibration tool like this http://www.amazon.com/ColorVision-S2EL100-Spyder-3-Elite/dp/B000X4X35C

sRGB is a standard color space/spectrum. There is also adobeRGB etc etc... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_color_spaces_and_their_uses

Again some of your questions seems like statements and I'm not really sure what you're looking for.

If you have a specific question maybe put a question mark at the end of the sentence...

Good luck.

This reminds me of my setup at home. I just attached a mirror that clamps to the top of my monitor and I can see behind me just fine. Any motion gets my attention right away. It's this one

The monitor is actually just a Sceptre c325w-1920r Super budget monitor, but it’s been great for me so far!

From Amazon

There is a way to sort of do this. You can get one of these "headless monitors" https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EK05WTY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Windows will see and treat it like it was a real monitor. Then set it up with whatever resolution you want and extend the desktop on to it.

I'm new to Parsec, but I guess you could autologin with your password protected user and then lock the session right away with this simple batch script. This way you`ve got both your user session started and Parsec running on background without fear of anyone snitching on your computer

EDIT: Apparently my solution works but you can't see anything from the Parsec client until the Parsec server detects the screen (to do so you have to press a key on a keyboard attached to the server). Is there anyway to run Parsec without any screen actually attached?

EDIT 2: It seems I need a dummy HDMI like this to trick the PC on believing it has a screen connected. I ordered one but now I have to wait 2 weeks for it to arrive from the US. :(

I've got the steagle one on one of my macbooks and it's great. If you don't want to stick anything to your computer, I've got this magnetic one and it's also great:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I1CN3YY

Hey so I was going to make a post about this myself since I also looked at MonsterTech and wanted their mounting options for my x-55 HOTAS. I just wanted to mount to my desk to play and remove easily when I was not.

I think what you did is awesome. I just did not want to do nearly as much work and used a much simpler approach.

I got two of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WJOYG6Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then I got 4 of these (I ended up with 8 just to be even more secure and look more symmetrical, but 4 does the job perfectly fine):

http://www.homedepot.com/p/BESSEY-4-in-x-2-in-Bar-Clamp-LM2-004/204957893

And I was able to just use them to attach the throttle and stick to my desk.

Yup...it was that simple. I will make a post about this with pictures later when I get a chance, but I wanted to share it with everyone since its one of the best ways I could find to get a high quality attachment/mount without spending the big bucks.

And yeah BESSEY makes amazing clamps. I love them! (Each clamp is rated to hold up to 330 lbs - made of all steel and wooden handle with a beautiful red paint)

I recommend using this: dummy plug

Works great for me at 120hz @ 2k resolution.

Found the Spyder you're looking for boss!

I do videography, but I'm more into audio, but I could even see that shit was way off. Does nobody own an octopus there? Or were those motion graphics presented and then filmed?

Also, I don't remember the brand and model name... that's just what we used to call them before they changed the device. :P

Camera covers

https://www.amazon.com/SpiShutter-Black-Magnetic-Macbook-Laptops/dp/B00I1CN3YY

I used one of these with my Hades for a while.

> It has a Thunderbolt port (mini displayport)...

This is a Thunderbolt 3 device, which means it's Thunderbolt port is a USB-C connector. Not the Mini Displayport connector, which was used for Thunderbolt 1 and 2.

There's no Mini DisplayPort connector on the ports list (so the Rift S adaptor will not work). This only has an HDMI.

OP would need to use a Thunderbolt 3 to DisplayPort adaptor. Though I don't know if it will work with the Rift S.

I don't think there is a good 120Hz touchscreen gaming laptop, which part would you be willing to compromise on ? I would recommend to let go of the touch screen since most gaming laptops don't have that feature. if it is an absolute must then you can use this on any gaming laptop you want.

Generally speaking, aftermarket cables do present a risk compaired to the standard ones the unit comes with. However, if the cables are explicitly made to be compatible with your particular unit, I wouldn't worry.

If it makes you feel any better, you can go and buy a power supply tester like this. They're not terribly expensive, after all.

I mine only ETH because dual mining consumes more power and like I said I had some negative experience with burning PSUs. Now I have platinum 1200w PSUs for each rig (I have 5 RX470 x 6 rigs, 1 RX470 x 5 rig, and 1 GTX1070 x 6 rig).. so 41 GPUs in total. The GTX1070 rig costed about 4100 USD in total while RX470 rigs about 2000 USD each.

Its risky to build a new rig now (especially nvidia), but if ETH price does not crash then you are likely to repay the investment within one year probably.

I have a watt meter, multimeter and PSU tester (this one). Also, since I am in Europe my voltage is 230volts, not sure if this makes any real difference against USA 120v.

https://smile.amazon.com/SpiShutter-Classic-Black-Magnetic-Macbook/dp/B00I1CN3YY/

buy a sheet protector. Look for them on amazon. I have one on my intuos pro M. Yes, the surface is slippery with 0 tooth but it reminds me of my old well loved intuos 5 that had a slippery smooth surface from much use. Posrus? is the brand i use. I've been using the same nib for more than 2 years now. 0 wear. I recommend it over the paper but it's personal preference.

EDIT: here is the amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/POSRUS-NibSaver-Surface-Intuos-Medium/dp/B06XYTYR2W/ref=pd_sbs_147_t_0/141-3088779-4746036?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B06XYTYR2W&pd_rd_r=6bdf7178-5755-4cec-818a-71c3de61c939&pd_rd_w=oW2Qr&pd_rd_wg=Zpf0O&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=G978KQG92ZMMH5TSRQ7M&psc=1&refRID=G978KQG92ZMMH5TSRQ7M

oh and this may interest you: https://www.amazon.com/AirBar-Neonode-Touchscreen-Windows-Notebooks/dp/B01N3MHMSF

For a wireless HDMI dongle, try this one. It was featured in a LTT video and seems to work pretty well.

Windows will output through HDMI at whatever resolution you want, up to a certain maximum that isn't supported by that HDMI standard. You should be fine with FHD.

https://www.amazon.com/Sunix-DisplayPort-miniDP-DP-Cable-DPU3000-D3/dp/B00JARYTVK

According to the Hardforum thread, this active DP-VGA converter should be able to push all the common resolutions of the FW900 with no issues. I would do your own research, however.

disable the touchscreen

if it's running windows use https://custom-resolution-utility.en.lo4d.com/windows with a smaller res to avoid the failing corners

or airbar https://www.amazon.in/Neonode-15-6-inch-Touchscreen-Enabler-Laptops/dp/B01N3MHMSF

How did you connect the drives to the motherboard? Did you check if the drives start spinning? Sounds like there is something wrong with the psu. Are the fans turning?

Get yourself one of these to test the psu:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/DIGIFLEX-Power-Supply-Tester-Diagnose-Black/dp/B004IO5CT8

Found this on Amazon, no idea if it's the right size, price, or any good.

https://www.amazon.com/Screen-Protector-Compatible-Widescreen-Desktop/dp/B06WGNYG96?th=1&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01EK05WTY?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

This works. I do have to un plug my 1440 ultrawide and plug this in when I want to couch it up. I wish there was a better solution but this is the best I have found. But for $10 not bad.

You need something like this

https://www.amazon.com/Sonnet-External-DisplayPort-Thunderbolt-TB3-DDP4K/dp/B073H78ZZP

I have this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JARYTVK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for when I'm on the go. At home I have the sp4 dock, but this one works great to run external monitors on the go. I haven't had any issues with it.

(Anecdotally, sample size of 1) I got a sceptre 32" curved monitor, 75hz 4ms 1080p. It's this sku for like $180(w/tax and shipping) bucks manufacturer refurb. The color accuracy is... abysmal. But other than that, I've never seen anything close in terms of value. It came with a 1 year warranty which I had to use, and Sceptre CS was fucking the best I've had to deal with in years.

Depends on the tablet you're using, if it's one of the 2018/19 pro models (PTH860/660/460KOA) then you may need to use a protective cover over the drawing area. It seems to be an intention in the design that the texture on the drawing area eats the nibs up, even with the smoothest surface sheet. This is the cover I purchased, good luck.

Specs:

Type|Item|
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core | $350.98 @ Newegg
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master - MasterAir MA410P 66.7 CFM | $47.79 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | ASRock - Z370 Pro4 ATX LGA1151 | $100.00 @ Newegg
Memory | Corsair - Vengeance LPX 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-2133 | $275.99 @ Amazon
Storage | SanDisk - Ultra 3D 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive & Hitachi - Ultrastar 7K3000 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB | $529.00 @ Newegg Marketplace
Case | Corsair - Carbide Quiet 600Q ATX Full Tower | $149.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | EVGA - 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX | $39.99 @ B&H
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Pro Full 64-bit | $125.89 @ Trusted Tech Team
Wireless Network Adapter | Asus - PCE-AC55BT B1 PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac | $34.51 @ OutletPC
Monitors | Sceptre C325W-1920R Curved 32-Inch
Keyboard | E-Element Z-88 RGB Mechanical
Mouse | Logitech G600
Speaker | TaoTronics Soundbar
By Request: Mousepad | Mercy Comfort Silica Gel Wrist Rest

I have the NEC sister monitor to yours and a GTX 1080. Your best option is gonna be the SUNIX DPU-3000. It will support all the really crazy high res modes your monitor will display. One caveat, though: Low res display modes don't work in my expirience so I can't get, say, 240p@120hz (or 140hz) to work, have to use one of the crappy adapters for that.

Here is the DPU 3000 for sale: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JART8HA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rO4pDb64AZ8H5

It is not cheap but it is a very good accesory for your LaCie. The one I linked is the -D2 model. The difference is only that -D2 comes with a cable with mini displayport on both ends whereas the other SKU comes with a displayport to mini displayport cable.

Your only other option AFAIK is to get a card that supports analog out natively. A quality card like the GTX 980 Ti will not be as cheap as the SUNIX DAC.

If you have the funds I would at least invest in an enclosure if the hard drives get any regular use. With docks the HDDS are exposed so there is a greater chance of static electricity taking out one of your drives. At least try and invest in a dock with a fan I would say. I just purchased this off amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H91BYDK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It seems like a decent enclosure and reasonably priced although I have not had a chance to use it yet.

Yes, it's possible with TB16 dock via 2xDP1.2 connection.
There is also a special adapter:

Sonnet Thunderbolt 3 to Dual DisplayPort Adapter - Supports one 5K or two 4K Displays (TB3-DDP4K)

There is a discussion about this here :

http://oddsheepgames.com/?topic=do-i-need-120hz-main-display-to-actually-use-120hz-on-trinuspsvr-properly

"Hi,

you have another option : the headless adapter. Using the PSVR as the main display can’t work properly because you need the main window to be in front in order to interact with keyboard and mouse (if you need it).

So in order to reach 120hz, you can buy this :
https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B01EK05WTY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It will simulate a 120hz screen. But you might have only one HDMI output on your video card. You can in this case use a Displayport to HDMI adapter but you will need an active one. All passives are limited to 60 hz and won’t help. here is one example :
https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B01CY2SXN2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Now you have the headless adapter, plug it in your PC (keep the screen too).

Now this is how i do it : launch the game, verify that that SBS view is in the headset (using windows key + shift + arrows if needed to place it properly). click on the “non SBS view” to make sure it is in front and shut down the main screen. There you are, HMD is @ 120 hz for much less than a 120hz monitor."

The Pimax is an LCD so the colors are absolute garbage and it isn't very bright. This is irrelevant for most browsing and for doing my job (programming, which I get to do in VR twice a week from home). So it's not that I prefer triple monitors, it's that any of my triple monitors have better colors and brightness than the Pimax. Sometimes I game on my Ultrawide for this same reason but it's a bit silly that it gets so little use now since I just bought it a few months back.

The 1080p was the software limitation which is no longer an issue. The HDMI chip is 1.4b, which can do upwards of 2K@60Hz (which it can now do), or 4K@30Hz (which it still can't). There's also a way to do 4K@60Hz via YUV420 which is essentially 4K pixels but only 1080p colors. This isn't implemented either though.

Here's what I use to get a 4K display in VR without having a real 4K display: https://www.amazon.com/fit-Headless-GS-resolution-emulator-game-streaming/dp/B01EK05WTY

Could this work?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WJOYG6Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iUSyCbK1VGSAA

If you get a monitor that supports a standard VESA mount, then you can get a bracket that you install between the stand and the screen to which you screw a mini PC like a NUC.

Have a look at this Amazon page for ideas.

Surprisingly, this solution is much more expensive.

This [monitor cover]
(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q6IDLTM/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=IM3O97W9QYALO&colid=2GCDSOB8RB4XI) is absolutely adorable, I think it's really cute. c: Because who says computer setups can't be Awwdorable

https://www.amazon.com/fit-Headless-GS-resolution-emulator-game-streaming/dp/B01EK05WTY/ref=pd_sim_147_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01EK05WTY&pd_rd_r=3QCCMM6DZKZWAK3AM4CW&pd_rd_w=fGIlK&pd_rd_wg=LJUH2&psc=1&refRID=3QCCMM6DZKZWAK3AM4CW

Possibly the best you can get today is the Sunix one, can do 300+MHz cleanly, https://www.amazon.com/Sunix-DisplayPort-miniDP-Cable-DPU3000-D2/dp/B00JART8HA

For cheaper there's the Tendak one, https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Converter-Adapter-Portable-Connector/dp/B01B7CEOVK/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1549796883&sr=1-3&keywords=tendak+vga+hdmi, good for ~165MHz

Found my solution: SilverStone Technology NUC/Monitor Arm Extension Bracket with VESA Mount Specification (MVA01) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WJOYG6Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1xFgzb9T75M23

thanks for the help everyone!!!

LMAO.

I seriously can't stop fucking laughing, kek.
You need to turn the screen on, brah, or buy one of these Anti Glare(Matte) Screen Protector.

It's actually white 😔 im sorry but I can give you the brand. Or I can one up and tell you the rgb light are the hue lightstrips they literaly will change an entire rooms color. I have a ton of rgb and these rock. OR this is 13.00$ they actually look https://www.amazon.com/Moonse-Waterproof-Dustproof-Decoration-Protector/dp/B00Q6IDLTM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?adgrpid=54479552125&hvadid=274871156603&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=200510&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=10333001295588758916&hvtargid=kwd-297657010223&hydadcr=12163_10197799&keywords=pink+computer+monitor&qid=1568198372&s=gateway&sr=8-3😎

The 212 is a 2 bay NAS, not 4 bay. And it comes with a tiny CPU, so I wouldn't expect the performances to be impressive.

I'm Canadian, but I haven't shopped for NAS for a while now.

Just looking on Amazon.ca, I find stuff for cheaper :

A Sinology for $216, a Buffalo for $140 and a Startech for $110. No idea how the specs compare, but it seems the Netgear is priced quite high.

Although they're not often used today, the very old-school "infrared grid" touchscreens would work fine. You used to see them installed on the front of CRT monitors. They have a bunch of IR LEDs on two sides and IR sensors on the other two. When you touch the screen, you break the path between some of the LEDs and matching sensors, letting it determine the X/Y position of the touch event. They generally can't do multitouch or anything else fancy, and the only ones I ever saw were designed for POS use (esp. restaurant POS systems) and they emulated PS/2 mice as their connection to the host, usually. Now they might be hard to find, but ~10 years ago you could find them at surplus stores and the like, just by looking for POS-type CRTs with suspiciously thick bezels and extra cabling hanging off them.

You could probably DIY something that worked on the same principle pretty easily, particularly if you didn't care too much about high resolution (you wanted something for really big touch targets). Basically you'd just strobe the X and Y axis LEDs sequentially, while at the same time checking each corresponding sensor on the other side of the screen to see if it was 'seeing' the LED. I've seen a project that did this with LED strips for a "touch wall" but I can't find the build page right now.

If you don't want to roll your own, a few companies make COTS products which basically do something similar to the infrared grid touchscreens but with only a single bar (typically on the bottom of the screen). I'm not entirely clear how they work, except they must sense distance from the sensor array in order to get X/Y position. They're quite cheap. See this thing, for example. Can't vouch for one personally though.

Not that I know of. It's for this reason really color-anal people buy the the same monitor so that the settings are the same. Across different monitor brands, it's almost impossible to exactly calibrate them to the same color/brightness settings without one of these which gets the actual output of the monitor externally.

Oh that is pretty neat! But they are $100!

Just purchased and used both of these for SF 1Up mod with M170ETN01.1 monitor. . Joystick and encoders worked great with PI or Windows. Easy swap out of the control panel.

Avsiri 2 Player LED Arcade DIY Parts 2X USB Encoder + 2X Ellipse Oval Style Joystick + 20x LED Arcade Buttons for PC MAME Raspberry Pi Windows (Mixed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M5WSL24/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_nyzxL5f4guFdv

VSDISPLAY HDMI Audio LCD Controller Board Fit to Arcade DIY Parts 17" M170ETN01.1 WYD170SKD 01 LCD Monitor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MRJG3HT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_cRmsDIBO7hBme

You could use a very tiny font, or a privacy filter.

As a turnkey option, you can get extension brackets to mount a NUC or other VESA-sized case in a pretty clean fashion.

Or, you could just get smart. Lock your computer when you leave, and get one of these.. http://www.amazon.com/3M-Privacy-PF17-0-Monitor-privacy/dp/B000067O6L

I would, but I already have my eyes on two of these guys.

https://www.displayport.org/cables/driving-multiple-displays-from-a-single-displayport-output/ -- monitors would need two DisplayPort 1.2 ports for daisy-chaining.

Thunderbolt DOES support multiple DisplayPort monitors, but I'm only seeing adapters for Thunderbolt 3, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Sonnet-Thunderbolt-Dual-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B073H78ZZP (linked just for reference).

dude why?! You should have bought those $10 dummy HDMI plugs on Amazon that lets the GPU always active by making it think that it had a display connected...

fit-Headless GS: https://www.amazon.com/fit-Headless-GS-resolution-emulator-game-streaming/dp/B01EK05WTY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1494080294&sr=8-2&keywords=compulab

or fit-Headless 4K: https://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-4K-Display-Emulator-fit-Headless/dp/B00JKFTYA8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1494080294&sr=8-3&keywords=compulab

I've been looking at the same one, and Googling the model pretty much only comes up with Newegg, Amazon.com and your post here. Nowhere has any reviews.

There's a similar model on amazon by the same company that has decent reviews.

There's also a BenQ on Newegg.ca which is basically the same thing, just with a more recognizable brand and you can actually find reviews for it.

Don't see why this one wouldn't work. XPS15 is 15.6" right?

http://www.amazon.com/Premium-Privacy-Widescreen-Computer-Monitor/dp/B012V5A7D6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450393769&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=15+inch+laptop+privacy+screen&psc=1

cover your screen in honey. or get a Screen Guard

No...this is my first build :'(

Would this be a smart purchase? http://www.amazon.co.uk/Power-Supply-Tester-With-Display/dp/B004IO5CT8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1342286121&sr=8-1

Have you thought about using an Airbar so that the whole thing was touch too?