Best computer networking hubs according to redditors

$44.99? No thanks.

Inateck 3 Ports USB 3.0 Hub and RJ45 10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet Hub is a better value with an extra USB 3.0 port.

List:

• ZTE F609 - GPON ONT from ISP, bridge mode and connected to pfsense.
  
  
• Mikrotik CSS326-24G-2S+RM - Super budget 24 ports switch with basic features and 2 SFP+ ports for only $139 brand new, you just can't beat that price.
  
  
• Ubiquiti Unifi AP AC Lite - To handle wireless devices in my house, to be honest I was very disappointed with the temp, it runs very hot and it's the reason why I didn't mount it on the ceiling. If I knew all Unifi AP runs this hot, I would've go with other brand. Many people have told me that it's fine, but mine reaches 70 degrees on idle (I live in place where it can reach almost 40 degrees) and if I mount it on the ceiling without proper ventilation, it probably can go up to 80-85 degrees and I've seen couple post on Ubqt forum that their AP melted due to the temperature.
  
  
• Plugable 7 port USB hub - I have an unused spare. It's kinda expensive if you compare it to other cheap chinese crap but it doesn't backfeed power and super reliable, the other one is currently used to power my Pi2 24/7 for almost 2 years without single issue.
  
  
• Deepcool cooler - Super old notebook cooler I found on my garage, currently use this to blow the hot air from Unifi AP until I finish my mod to mount 120mm fan on the ceiling so I can put my AP.
  
  
• PC - Spec is G4400, Asrock H110M-HDV, PNY SSD CS1311 80GB, 2 WD hard drive 2TB, 8GB RAM, and 2x single NIC Intel PT Pro. This thing run Windows 10 and pfsense under Hyper-V (not a good idea I know). Also act as my media and storage server. I'm very surprised that this thing pulls less than 20w on idle!
  
  
• Others - Old monitor I found in my garage, probably from Intel dual core era, some cheap landline phone, a bluetooth keyboard, and bluetooth mouse.
  
  All these only pull about 40w, my next upgrade is probably to invest in a decent rack so I can have a better cable management.

> The only issue is the usb port issue. If you need ethernet, your fucked if you also need usb. So you need to bring a small hub.

I ordered one of these fellows and it's been amazing. I actually had a USB-Serial adapter, USB drive, and a USB cable powering my hotspot all hooked up at the same time.

I'm basically in love with my SP3.

I have one of these bad Larrys so all I have to do to turn shit on and off is press a button. I feel like a wizard!

Highly recommended, btw. That thing is pretty durable and works with every usb I've tried without issue. Plus, 7 bucks!

http://www.amazon.com/Generic-7-Port-USB-Hub-Port/dp/B007S642BW/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1418874154&sr=1-4&keywords=usb+hub Found it

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Portable-Ethernet-Network-Notebooks/dp/B014ZOJX7W/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1504671338&sr=8-15&keywords=anker+usb+hub

Looks like this (not OP)

Satechi USB-C Power Meter Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MT8MC3N

can your laptop charge a tablet alone? If yes I don't see why this shouldn't be possible. this should do the trick. Onnect the dongle to your tablet, and the passthrough power cable to your latop and the phone to any of the other ones. I don't think your phone would charge very quickly though

When sharing Amazon links, you only need the product ID (B00SOMETHING) and nothing after it. The shortest way is http://amzn.com/B00BLAHBLAH, or http://amazon.com/dp/B00BLAHBLAH if you want to have the full "Amazon" in the URL.

It'll avoid people freaking out thinking you're using referral links.

In this case: http://amzn.com/B01MT8MC3N or http://amazon.com/dp/B01MT8MC3N

Very easy.

You can find a pre made build online and just copy it to a flash drive and it’s good to go. As long as the drive is plugged in, the hack works. Power off the system and unplug the drive and it’s back to stock.

———

Here’s what I can confirm works flawlessly with my PlayStation Classic

Samsung MUF-128AB/AM FIT Plus 128GB - 300MB/s USB 3.1 Flash Drive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D7PDLXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vnIhDbF1WEZNK

Plugable USB 2.0 2-Port High Speed Ultra Compact Hub/Splitter (480 Mbit/s, USB 2.0 Windows, Linux, OS X, Chrome OS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HKIDF2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7nIhDbXBKWQ2S

I’m pretty sure I can’t link directly to the site with the pre made build, but arcadepunks dot com and look around. Copy that build onto a drive and you’re good to go.

The items used:

Raspberry PI Zero <- Bougth mine at local store.

http://amzn.com/B00S82B0VA <- Karaoke Mixer

http://amzn.com/B00SNLIG5O <- 128GB SD Card for storage

http://amzn.com/B001MSS6CS <- USB Audio Card

http://amzn.com/B003MTTJOY <- Wifi Adapter

http://amzn.com/B005HKIDF2 <- Usb Hub

A total of around ~$90



Edit

If a mic is needed that add $20
http://amzn.com/B003GEBGA0 <- Mic

First off, I'm no where near an expert on soldering, but competent. I wanted to get the usb hub off of the Playstation, (it was stuck to the top with double sided tape) but I didnt feel confident enough to go poking around on the main system board. I knew the usb cable in the controller was replaceable so I decided to go there. If I goof it up, I can always buy another cable no harm done. This idea was one I originally saw years ago with people putting thumb drives inside their mice. Same concept.

I used this hub to start out with: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HKIDF2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1It has just enough ports and is compact enough to lay flat in the hand grip with some slight modifications.

First off, you have to remove the usb port. I used a pair of flush cutters to snip the port off. If you want to de-solder it, that would work just the same. Keep the leads on the top usb port as long as possible, I reattached just the 'tongue' from inside the usb port to allow for storage upgrades if I ever need to. Once the usb ports were off the hub, I cut the micro usb side of the controller cable off with enough length to reach the bottom of the controller grip. I soldered that end of the cable to the usb pads on the hub paying attention to the orientation and referencing a female usb 2.0 pinout. I separated the two usb ports with my little snips, reattaching the top port's 'tongue' to its original position. The longer leads allowed me to fold the piece backward and slide the thumb drive over it.

Now for the cable from the hub. I cut the plug off and kept the wires coming from the hub short as I could that would still allow me to work with them. Butt splicing these wires to the original controller cable for aesthetics (I like the little grey controller plug) and insulating the connections from each other left me with the last problem.

The pcb itself was small and compact, but was just shy of fitting in that sweet spot below the face buttons. Underneath where the usb ports were on the hub had no traces or circuitry that I could see. So, I clipped the corner off the board to fit snugly up against the rounded edge of the plastic supporting the controller face buttons. With a little patience, and some cable management, the wires can be routed along the inside edge of the grip, avoiding the screw hole by stacking on top of each other, and one plug to the controller board and one to the exit.

It was a neat little after work project I cooked up for myself. I wanted the hub to disappear, but was not totally confident working on the console board itself. I see this as a good compromise for someone who would rather replace one controller cable if they mess up. I tried to be descriptive as possible. I didn't take any pictures while assembling it, but its nothing too difficult.

Yep, but silver..

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PC07T02/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Worked as soon as I plugged it in too. Was dreading having to spend $250 on the dock..
Wait, it's $299 AUD. Looks like I saved $270..

Here's what I've been using to sucessfully extend the distance between my computer and my vive:


     USB over Ethernet (with a 50ft cat6)
     https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013VP3372/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

     50ft Active HDMI
     https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0186DNFLI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Before this I tried using a passive HDMI cable which gave me a red light and blank display on the Vive but everything showed green in SteamVR.

If you have a fast internet connection, gigabit ethernet is the way to go. I have a USB hub / ethernet adapter by Anker and it works really well. We have a gigabit internet connection at my office, and being plugged in gives me MUCH faster downloads than using wifi.

But you could also just get a USB Wifi adapter for about $10-15 too. Or both.

I would assume things like this

You don’t need a bunch of dongles. There are hundreds of options that combine all of them in to one.

I went with this Satechi adapter because it has anything I could need. They have cheaper versions with less ports too.

I also grabbed two of these Anker adapters in case I just wanted to plug in a single cable.

With these two options I can plug in 99% of accessories that I will ever need.

I'm slightly older if that really matters. Here's my advice.

One thing you can do right now without buying anything is to remove the stickers off of your laptop. Seriously, it makes a difference.

For all my recommendations I'm going to list price first as I imagine budget being a concern.

$5 - Do you only use the external drive when at your desk? If so, mounting it to the corner of the desk, the wall, (or if you ever pick up an external monitor, the back of that) might look cleaner.
I use this stuff to stick things - https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-051141397252-Extremely-Mounting-414P-ST/dp/B018GKCI82/ You can find it at stores like Target.

With all the cables coming out of your laptop, I think a USB hub would really help your setup as all of the cables would go directly into one place. If your laptop has a USB-C port and supports charging over it, you can get a USB-C hub so you can connect peripherals and charging over one cable.

$15 - If you don't have USB-C, something like this looks good - https://www.amazon.com/Anker-4-Port-Macbook-Surface-Notebook/dp/B00XMD7KPU/

It has four USB 3.0 ports and is very clean and small. However, the cable is a bit short.

Around $79 - If you do have USB-C, I have this hub and it's pretty good, however the cable is short and can feel a bit loose at times.

$25 - A basic colored mousepad might look cleaner if you want to go for that look. I have this mousepad and recommend it, but it's all personal preference.

$35 - I think you should pick up a headphone stand so the grease and oils don't get on your laptop screen, I recommend this one - https://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Aluminum-Headphone-Stand-Holder/dp/B019PI9QFC/

It gives you three extra USB 3.0 ports, a headphone jack and comes in four different colors, and has a solid aluminum build. If you don't need those extras, this stand is still aluminum and comes in at $12 - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GZFX6ND/

Probably around $100-$150 - The biggest upgrade you can make here I think is an external monitor and keyboard. It would improve your setup's ergonomics significantly. This desk looks pretty small, so I would recommend something no bigger than 24 inches in screen size. The resolution of the screen and such would depend on what you want and your laptop's power. However, I highly recommend at least 1920x1080 resolution.

$25 - If you ever do decide to upgrade to an external monitor, you probably wouldn't be able to use two screens on your desk, and the closed laptop would take up way too much space. I would recommend this laptop stand - https://www.amazon.com/Vertical-Adjustable-OMOTON-Aluminum-Chromebook/dp/B0769G51R7/

I have it myself and it's very well built, adjustable, and makes things a lot cleaner if you use an external monitor. It has branding on one side but if you flip it you can just use the side with no branding so it looks super clean. You can make it very stable on the desk with some simple double-sided tape.

That's all I have for now. Enjoy your setup!

This non-powered “USB 2.0 2-Port High Speed Ultra Compact Hub/Splitter” works fine for me in port 1 for both PSC controllers. I put my USB stick in port 2.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B005HKIDF2/ref=nosim/appleink/

• Evil Dead 2 blu-ray
  
• Terminator 2 blu-ray
  
• The Crow Blu-Ray
  
  DVDs:
  
  
• Beetlejuice
  
• Goonies
  
• Honey, I Shrunk the Kids
  
• Sandlot
  
• Gremlins
  
• Willy Wonka
  
• Princess Bride
  
• Annie
  
• Harry and the Hendersons
  
  Not Movies: (just in case)
  
  
• Bottle Opener Ring - $0.89
  
• 7=Port USB Hub - $4.30
  
• Silver Bullet... um... Massager - $4.19

http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1414529601&sr=1-1&keywords=usb+expander boom.

I just got this, works great. The hub is useful. $30 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E7W1UFQ/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you haven't already about one, this is the one I use: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BWF5U0M

Super cheap; works perfectly with the PS4.

I use this one from Anker. Has pretty much everything I need(USB + ethernet via USB-C). Its $29 USD (not sure where you're located).

You can easily do this.

You can get 100ft HDMI cables with active chips in them that work just fine for $60.

http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025506&p_id=12740&seq=1&format=2

Also you can get USB in 82ft for $33.

http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=7644

To go even longer you move to HDMI and USB over CAT5e/6.

HDBaseT like this:

http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10914&cs_id=1091404&p_id=10227&seq=1&format=2

http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10914&cs_id=1091402&p_id=10680&seq=1&format=2

$200 for the set of units that will let you take HDMI to 328ft.

$64 for the USB one that will take USB to 164ft:

https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-4-Port-Extender-Ethernet-GUCE64/dp/B013VP3372/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1473352081&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+over+ethernet

Been looking for one of these, and there aren't many on the market. Thanks for sharing

Amazon Link

As far as trust-able names go, I find the pickings are fairly slim. You wind up paying a premium for it.

Anker, my preferred, has one without an SD slot at $60.

Aukey has one without the SD slot. $40.

Aukey has another, but it's missing the HDMI port. $17.

Lenovo's has all the bells/whistles, but comes to $58.

You have ask yourself if you're willing to drop that much on a trustworthy name, or if ones like this from Mokin are worth the $30 risk.

In your comment you weren't clear if 1) the Pi was going to have its own power separate from the hub or 2) be powered by the hub as well.

The short answer:

1. Maybe. Depends on the power requirements of the usb devices.
   
   
2. No.
   
   From RasPi FAQ:
   > Typically, the model B uses between 700-1000mA depending on what peripherals are connected, and the model A can use as little as 500mA with no peripherals attached. The maximum power the Raspberry Pi can use is 1 Amp. If you need to connect a USB device that will take the power requirements of the Raspberry Pi above 1 Amp then you must connect it to an externally powered USB hub
   
   For powered USB hubs I recommend taking a look at the list at eLinux.org Here.
   
   I am using this one (Amazon) and it works very well powering my Pi, WiFi, Keyboard, mouse, and webcam.
   
   Note: eLinux also has a list of all verified peripherals for the RasPi Here. Very handy.

I think /u/chrislikessoda should be gifted this thing

It'll brighten his day a little and he's been having tough times :)

Thanks for the contest :)

I can tell you it works great as a desktop replacement because that's EXACTLY what I did!

I run mine with two external monitors using this DP hub:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HK8V5KE/ref=oh_details_o02_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

...and I also have this USB hub:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IJU0K2Q/ref=oh_details_o02_s01_i03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

...which has a built-in gigE port. I also picked up a 64Gb uSD card for a little expanded storage:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007WTAJTO/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

On top of that, I picked up a 1Tb external USB3 HD from Best Buy for around $50, though I'm not actually using it now.

I of course have a proper keyboard and mouse attached. The only thing missing from the equation is the docking station, but that's pre-ordered.

Yes, the whole setup was pricey (around $1700 all-in for the 256Gb i5 model, plus $200 for the dock later) but it's allowed me to replace my desktop AND laptop that I sometimes used with one very portable and capable package. I'm VERY happy.

I use it primarily for various forms of software development, which tends to be more demanding than typical use... I can tell you it has performed flawlessly in this role for me the past few weeks. Everything I've thrown at it so far has worked as expected and with excellent performance. I've done some video editing on it too and that's been fine as well.

It's also not bad for the somewhat limited gaming I do. I still play the original Halo and Postal 2, but nothing more demanding. I've run all the 3DMark demos on it too and it perform well up until about two versions ago, so my take is if you're looking for games no newer than about 2-3 years ago you're going to be fine, anything newer might not work out as well (at best you'll likely have to crank settings down). If you want better gaming I'd suggest the i7 is what you want... better GPU in addition to the CPU bump. I originally planned to get that but I got impatient :) The i5 has been fine for me though.

DAS is Direct Attached Storage, so you'll need a pcie card on your main PC so it can connect to. There are DAS via USB, but I wouldn't advise that. I haven't tested a Type C connector DAS, but it might be ok. This USB hub would be your cheapest setup improvement. The next level up would be to buy new, buy used, or build your own NAS. If you buy used or build your own then you'll have to spend time to learn an OS to setup a network share so you can access it via ethernet cable. You could spend more to get a closer to a turnkey solution, but the price goes up fast if you need a lot of storage with this solution.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LLUEJXW/

Here is a slightly more expensive Mediasonic but you get a Type C connector.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078YQHWYW/

No. It's bus powered (powered by the pi). You want something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Z4G3I6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WwXYxbVVD092D

I have that exact one and use it for exactly what you are trying to do.

You plug the hub into the wall. The Pi and the HDD plug into the hub. The hub powers them both and provides the data connection.

In that case I'd probably get a cheap usb hub as well - https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1492989540&sr=1-5&keywords=usb+extension.

Try different USB 3.0 port. Try removing all other USB devices but keyboard and mouse.

A powered USB 3.0 hub(one with AC adapter) may help. The USB port may not be providing enough power.

A user in another thread was reporting tracking issues until he added that. I sounds weird since the Vive has it's own power adapter but I guess some stuff must be USB bus powered. Could be something dumb like the AC adapter only powers the screens and the rest is USB bus powered and its right on the edge.

Mine wouldn't track at all when I plugged it into my inateck card. No issues in the intel USBs right on my motherboard.

Just a shot in the dark, but its the only thing I've seen in these threads that may apply, and I didn't reboot when I switched to trying the USBs on my inateck card(I was troubleshooting tinny low audio) or play around with updating inateck drivers so could have been something else other than power but there was a guy that reported the powered USB hub thing in another thread. Here he was talking about sudden losses in tracking due to USB power issues: https://www.reddit.com/r/Vive/comments/8etrxc/vive_pro_20_sound_issue_what_is_the_status/dxyxt9i/


He specifically was using this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FR795WA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_imu4Ab2X3H65M but of course you should be able to get away with cheaper I would imagine (I was looking at this one myself: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Individual-Switches-included-HB-UMP3/dp/B00TPMEOYM)

I bought this one. Works great. It is confirmed working be several people over at XDA. But you will need to buy an OTG cable with it.

The Gigabit Ethernet is what sold me. My local collection of media files are quite large.

Inateck 3 Ports USB 3.0 Hub and RJ45 10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet Hub

I got a usb hub that also has an ethernet port on it. Specifically this one: Amazon Link

and it's worked great so far. I didn't do one with usb-c and passthrough charging just because i couldn't find one with high reviews/reasonable cost

Older Thunderbolt 1 and 2 devices, such as those designed for Apple Mac products, would need an adapter to work with Thunderbolt 3, since Thunderbolt 1 and 2 used Mini DisplayPort (mDP) ports while Thunderbolt 3 switched to USB Type-C.

From slowest to fastest, you have:

• 480 Mbits/s: USB 2.0
  
• 5 Gbits/s: USB 3.0 (aka "USB 3.1 Gen 1", confusingly)
  
• 10 Gbits/s: USB 3.1 Gen 2 (aka true USB 3.1)
  
• 40 Gbits/s: Thunderbolt 3
  
  That's for speed. For the shape of the plug, you can either have USB Type-A (traditional USB shape) or Type-C (the new shape). There's not necessarily any connection between the shape of the plug and speed, though on the XPS 15 9550 the only Type-C port is a Thunderbolt 3 / USB 3.1 Gen 2 port, while the other Type-A ports are USB 3.0. The new MacBook and Chromebook Pixel have USB 3.1 Gen 1 (equivalent to USB 3.0 speed) Type-C ports, while many smartphones coming out with Type-C ports are still working at USB 2.0 speeds.
  
  USB 3.0 or above would be preferable, so that gigabit Ethernet is supported. You can get one that uses the Type-C port if you want, but it will still work at the same speed (USB 3.0) as the normal Type-A version. Adapters that take advantage of USB 3.1, much less Thunderbolt 3, are still rather rare. In any case, using Thunderbolt 3 just for Ethernet would be overkill: better to save the Thunderbolt 3 port for a full-scale dock or an external graphics card.
  
  So, enough background. Some options:
  
  
• AmazonBasics USB 3.0 to 10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet Adapter ($16.95)
  
• Anker Unibody Aluminum 3-Port USB 3.0 and Gigabit Ethernet Hub ($26.99)
  
• Anker USB-C to 3-Port USB 3.0 Hub with Ethernet Adapter for USB Type-C Devices ($27.99)
  
  The two Anker devices also include a three port USB 3.0 hub, for connecting other stuff.

> One computer is connected wireless

Fix this.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014ZOJX7W/

It's built on the Atom X5-Z8500 SoC. According to Intel, it should support 4k video at 60fps in h.264 encoding up to 250Mbps, or at 30fps in h.265 encoding. So in theory it should handle 4k video just fine, though the limiting factor will most likely be the HDMI output (can't find any info on if that's HDMI 2.0, which if it's not you'll be limited to 24fps 4k output due to bandwidth).

This should also be quite competent for Steam streaming, though you'll want to get a USB ethernet adapter as the on-board wifi won't cut it. Something like this plugged into the USB 3.0 connection will give you a place to plug in a controller wifi dongle (either for a 360 controller, an Xbox One controller since this is running Windows 10, or a Steam Controller) plus a gigabit-capable ethernet connection.

Pretty much the only real limitation is lack of SATA support, meaning onboard storage will be the slower eMMC. But onboard storage is mostly unimportant, since you just need enough room and speed to launch simple things like XBMC or Steam. Everything else should be streamed over a network.

tl;dr: Intel's current Atom X5/X7 SoC is a beast.

pfsense on a netgate or similar.

This one will handle multiple VPN connections much better because it has AES-NI:
https://www.amazon.com/Firewall-Micro-Appliance-Gigabit-AES-NI/dp/B0742P83HY

If you aren't doing much encryption (VPN Traffic) you can save a little money (this is the box that I use at home):
https://www.amazon.com/Firewall-micro-appliance-Gigabit-Intel/dp/B01AJEJG1A

From my experience messing with a dozen different routers I'd suggest anyone that wants an all in one package that does almost anything a person interested in home networking would want to do to get a firewall micro appliance/ or this barebones version if you have spare ram and msata drive around, or can get your own cheap) or going even cheaper and using any old pc laying around (after buying an extra NIC card for it) and putting Sophos XG/UTM9 home edition or Pfsense on it. Both are free. Both are equally amazing in securing a network and doing many other things. differences between the two, though pfsense has improved since this post so maybe take that into consideration. Lots of support online on how to set either of these up. /r/pfsense, youtube has lots of videos for both.

I have gigabit fiber and got this box: https://amzn.com/B01AJEJG1A

LOVE it. Handles gigabit beautifully.

Regardless of what you buy I suggest to use the Satechi USB C power meter. I always check any new charger and cable to see what voltage and power the devices draw.

[(https://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Multimeter-Chargers-External-Capacity/dp/B01MT8MC3N/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1502222031&sr=8-16&keywords=satechi+usb+c)]

You mean a Mac? They run OSX, not iOS.

And if you're using it as a PC you really should be using a Dock like this

That way you only have to plug in one cable.

I can’t recommend those hubs that mount directly on a macbook no matter the brand. It’s definitely going to mess up your ports overtime. Just get something that runs with a cable to it.


Like this one for example:



https://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Aluminum-Multi-Port-Ethernet-Pass-Through/dp/B075FW7H5J




Or something a bit smaller:




https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F7NBVJK/ref=emc_b_5_mob_i

I've been running this guy for about a year now. So much better than any of the off the shelf routers.

https://smile.amazon.com/Firewall-micro-appliance-Gigabit-Intel/dp/B01AJEJG1A

Edit: as /u/snarfattack and /u/svenvv noted the one that I linked below (with a Celeron J1900) doesn't support AES-NI and will not be compatible with PFSense 2.5.

Looks good but at when you're looking for one of the refurbs and you're looking to put another LAN card in it you might consider just going with a fanless box like this one. This is what I use and I love it.

With that said your plan for the refurb should work fine; I used to run mine off similar boxes quite comfortably.

Satechi

It's $25 on Amazon if anyone wants to save $5

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01MT8MC3N/

I appreciate that but I want to plug it into the Switch through the USB-C Power Meter to ensure that the proper voltage and amperage is delivered to the system.

https://smile.amazon.com/Satechi-Aluminum-Multi-Port-Ethernet-Pass-Through/dp/B075FW7H5J/

I can personally vouch that the following peripherals work, but certainly make no guarantees that they are the best options or prices etc. If you are feeling really ambitious you can browse the list of verified peripherals and shop around.

• Logitech K400 wireless keyboard/mouse combo
  
• Edimax USB wifi dongle
  
• Plugable 7-port USB hub (this does not back-power the Pi as far as I know)
  
• The Pi is cable of providing audio/video out either through the HDMI port, or through the yellow RCA port (video) and the 3.5mm stereo jack (audio). If you're already using an HDMI cable, you do not need to worry about the latter two.
  
• Updating the OS: open a terminal and type:
  
  
  sudo apt-get update
  
  sudo apt-get upgrade
  
  and that should update everything.

Yes, it will use a computer power cord, but I actually ordered a bunch and was going to include one for each of you. I really should have asked if people want to use their own power and HDMI cables... Although, you're in New Zealand so I probably shouldn't send you a US power cable. So yes, that'd be great if you had your own, lol!

As for 240 mains power, I have absolutely no idea. This is the USB hub that powers the Pi, and it's the only thing that will need to be connected to power. If the adapter that comes with this thing won't work for you, I can probably find a compatible adapter that will work on 240 mains power. But I'll need some help figuring that out.

Edit: Europe != New Zealand.

Edit again: forgot the amazon link for the USB hub.

I use this. Powers the pi and devices, decent wattage.

http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-7-Port-Speed-Power-Adapter/dp/B003Z4G3I6%3FSubscriptionId%3DAKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q%26tag%3Dduckduckgo-d-20%26linkCode%3Dxm2%26camp%3D2025%26creative%3D165953%26creativeASIN%3DB003Z4G3I6

Hey, so my answer will be similar to the others here. But it really depends what you're looking to do with it.

Bare minimum:

• raspberry pi board (duh)
  
• power cable - i used an old USB phone charger from an old cel phone
  
• hdmi cable - needed for output to display
  
• monitor/display - computer monitor, tv, really anything that accepts hdmi input - i used what i had already at home
  
• SD card - at least 8GB. I like the class 10 cards for better speed
  
• mouse/keyboard - i bought this keyboard since it's small and has a touchpad built in: http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Keyboard-Multi-Touch-Touchpad/dp/B005DKZTMG/ref=lp_12879431_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1416191522&sr=1-1
  
• internet connection: ether wired using an ethernet cable or wireless by buying a wifi dongle
  
• case - technically optional but recommended
  
  Also check out this getting started page: http://www.raspberrypi.org/help/quick-start-guide/
  
  When you start adding things, especially if needing more USB ports you can get a powered USB hub which is very useful. I use this: http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Terminus-Technology-backwards-compatibility/dp/B003Z4G3I6/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1416191766&sr=1-3&keywords=powered+usb+hub+pluggable
  
  Good luck!
  

(6) Satechi 12-port Hub - $168

Everything else were freebies lying around. Here's an estimate:

• 5U blank - $15
  
• 100 pk small zip ties - $2
  
• APC PDU cord retention tray/brackets - $20 (included with PDUs we use on the cluster)
  
• 5V/5A Power Supply - $15
  
• ring terminals - $2
  
• machine screws and nuts - $2
  
  Total: ~$225
  
  Time: ~4 Hours

This is the exact USB hub they had

Cheapest
and [Something else] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BAWXD88/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=KIZ4CK40ZJDV&coliid=I3TLJL18R4OPDN)


Congrats on the first contest! :D

Mine is an original wired Xbox controller.

I am using a non-powered hub. Here's the one I have.

http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=sr_1_1_m?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1411509537&sr=1-1&keywords=usb+hub

OKAY! So, I think this is pretty much everything that makes my setup what it is. If you see anything I’ve missed and are curious about, or want more details as to how everything came together, lemme know!

• Ergodox EZ Original Standalone, Black w/ MX Cherry Blues (No keycaps) - $235 (Doubt anyone needs that link, but y’know.)
  
  
• Ergodox PBT Cherry Profile Keycaps - $23.50
  
  
• 104-set PBT Cherry Profile Keycaps - $39.99
  
  
• Velocifire Blue Switch Wireless Numpad - $15.99 (Currently Unavailable Through Amazon)
  
  
• Logitech Trackman Marble - $23.99
  
  
• Sabrent 4-Port USB 2.0 Hub - $5.99
  (Didn’t trust USB 3.0 with my wireless accessories, and I love the individual button on control on this guy. Plus, you can’t beat that price!)
  
  
• ARKON Heavy-Duty Clamp Mounts - $26.95/ea
  
  Materials and Tools Used, Step By Step:
  
  Base pieces:
  3/4” pine (ply for base, solid for wrist rests)
  Table saw for cutting large pieces
  Jig saw for details and wrist rests
  
  Molding wrist rests/rounding edges:
  Belt sander (Turned upside down, ‘cause I’m not super strong lol)
  
  Wrist Rest Adhesion:
  Wood clamps
  Wood glue
  
  Attaching Hardware:
  Drill with 3/16 and 5/16” bits for cam lock screws
  1/4” Drill bit for threaded inserts
  1/4” Threaded Inserts
  5/8” Forstner bit for cam locks - $8.97
  1/4” Dowel Centers for lining everything up - $5.83/4-pack
  12mm Cam locks/screws
  
  Finishing product:
  Detail sander, 150-grit
  Hand Sanding, 220-grit
  3x Minwax Deep Mahogany Stain
  2x Minwax Fast Drying Gloss Polyurethane
  
  Logitech Trackman Marble Adaption:
  Blade for scoring trackball and cutting cover
  Hacksaw the tail off
  Sand down with 220-grit
  Cardboard (from inside of a binder cover) to create cover piece
  Oil Rubbed Bronze Metallic Spray paint to sorta match
  
  The other two things you’ll see in the pics are more specific to my transcription job, but in case there’s any interest:
  
  
• Senal SMH-1000 Headphones - $74.99
  
  
• Infinity IN-USB2 Footpedal (Purchased for $28 through eBay, $49 through Amazon)

http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1414788313&sr=1-1&keywords=usb+hub

Problem solved

You can get a hub for under $10. I use this one: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BWF5U0M

No but get one of these. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BWF5U0M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1453228438&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=usb+hub+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=519JLN5GTLL&ref=plSrch

Keep it connected to your router much easier to setup and you can share media through different devices.
I store my media on NAS device and managing it through /r/PleX media server. Works extremely well and does all the transcoding.
The NP though is connected through [Ethernet Network Adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ET4KHJ2/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and [4-Port USB 2.0 Hub] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BWF5U0M/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). just make sure its 2.0 usb dont know why but 3.0 wont work.

I don't even PXE Boot anymore, USB media all the way. I use a USB NIC with a hub that is a different brand, but looks identical

https://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Portable-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B00E7W1UFQ


I use that adapter and a USB flash drive for anything that doesn't have an integrated NIC.

I understand the quality difference, but why is that product so cheap as to compared to something like this? http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00FR795WA?psc=1. I am interested in one but I would like a quality one that doesn't destroy my devices :)

As the Surface has started to make its appearance on our networks I have found this beyond useful.

usb 3.0 to Ethernet + 3.0 ports

http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Bus-Powered-Converter-Ultrabooks-Compatible/dp/B00IJU0K2Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412727807&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+3+ethernet+hub

http://www.amazon.com/BlueRigger-DisplayPort-Thunderbolt-Adapter-Cable/dp/B007KB3VIU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412727830&sr=8-1&keywords=mini+displayport+to+dvi

Turned out to be even less than $40

Evecase 5.6 x 5.6 x 3.5 inch Camera Bag.
Chose this after trying too long to find a 3DS bag that didn't have horrible straps. $16 with Prime

Anker USB 3.0 4* USB tap.
Obviously, you need to have more than 1 USB port to do much, like using a mouse with a usb drive.
$9 with Prime.

Cable Matters Mini HDMI male to HDMI Female cable 2 pack.
Minor shaving required. Not tested extensively.
$10 with Prime.

Lexar USB 3.0 Micro SD Card Reader
If you want to use a ferry card or temporarily pop your card of choice into a computer, one of these is incredibly helpful. Plus it's tiny. You can probably get one cheaper if you don't want the 32GB card included.
$33 with Prime.

Standard XBOne Controller.
Works without any need to mess with dongles on Windows 10. It'll even work with headphones/sets.
$35-$50ish, depending on color and luck.

Venom Xbox One Rechargeable Battery Twin Pack.
I don't recommend these in particular, but a rechargeable pack is a must if you don't want to guzzle batteries.
$17 with Prime.

Logitech Wireless Mouse M185.
Pretty reliable, but only has the standard 2 mouse buttons plus tilting and clicking mousewheel. Receiver stores inside nicely.
$13 with Prime.

Kid Icarus Folding 3DS Stand That I Had In A Box.
Needs a little rubber bumper to help secure the Win properly.
$10 with Prime.

Perrix Asymetrical Folding Keyboard.
This one might be tough to find, but it works amazingly. The weird fold system pushes the main hinge off to the side, so it is less likely to fold the moment you put it on your lap. It also completely hides the hinge when the keyboard is unfolded. A bit cramped, but the keys are properly clicky laptop keys.
For image and model reference

Anker PowerCore 26800 Portable Charger*
While looking for my power pack, I found this one. Seems to be a flat upgrade. 26800mAh with 3 4.8A output USB ports. Also has 2 micro usb inputs for double the charge speed?
$59.99 with Prime.

Other possible pack-ins.

Bluetooth Numpads.
If you're primarily going to be gaming, you might want to drop the full keyboard in favor of a bit of space plus one of these. Works nicely with a mouse if you rebind with HIDMacros. Also more tiny airport/college desk friendly. Example unit is $30

Similarly, you might want to try a half controller + mouse option using a device like the Nintendo Joy-Con's left unit. Drivers are still being worked on though, so only get this if you're up for beta troubles.
$50ish, but you can get lucky on eBay.

SanDisk Ultra Fit 128GB USB 3.0 flash drive.
The one in all the Win lists I've seen, but I figured I'd list it here for convenience.
$45 with Prime.

Batteries
All this stuff takes a total of 3 AAA (2 for the keyboard, 1 for the numpad) and 1 AA battery that will need replacing eventually. I hesitate to recommend rechargeable ones, as I have yet to find a micro charger for them.

Inateck USB 3.0 Ethernet + 3 USB 3.0 port adapter.
You might want to replace the 4 port one with one like this if you plan to do network maintenance, secure data transfer, or just plain download things quickly.

$20 with Prime.

PS4 Controller.
Some people prefer this to the XBOne one. It's lighter in the hand (and bag), comes with a built in rechargeable battery with absurd life, and has a touchpad with 4 physical buttons underneath. Can do some pretty crazy things with the touchpad via Steam's controller customization, but has weaker compatibility with non-Steam applications. Also works with PS4 Remote Play.
Worth noting that, unlike the ps3 controller, this can charge directly from any micro usb power supply. Headset support seems to require the official receiver dongle, sold separately.
Controller Alone: $40-60 Depending on color. Silver's cheapest.
Adapter Alone: $66
Controller + Adapter Bundle: $66

Budget 1 Handed Controller**
Hey, if you want to try 1/2 Controller + Mouse, why start off pricey?
$10

Phew, that's about all I have on hand.

I ordered a USB hub plus 10/100/1000 USB NIC. It seems to solve two problems in one. Don't have it yet so idk if it's any good.

I have the older version of the Anker hub. It works fine on my SP3.

This case is an Inwin Fanqua. Replacement parts like USB ports are likely hard to find. I'd recommend getting a 5.25" adapter. I linked one of the first ones I found - there's no real name brand for stuff like that.

Also, you can un-plug those power+HDD LEDs at the motherboard. Much cleaner than tape.

/u/shidarin used an IOGEAR http://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-4-Port-Extender-Ethernet-GUCE64/dp/B013VP3372?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00 USB over Ethernet adapter for a 30 foot run that works alright for him.

https://www.reddit.com/r/Vive/comments/4dq00o/what_worked_for_me_extending_pc_vive_30_ft/

> How does the camera work on the front?

Works perfect for me! Works 100% when plugged directly into my PC, and when plugged into a 50 ft USB Extender it still works fine but I have to set it at 45hz for some reason or it isn't picked up :o. 30hz does not work and 60hz does not work over my extender, but 45hz works great.

>What good uses does it have?

It makes it extremely easy to tell where you are without taking the headset off. While playing you can enable an "outline" view when chaperone comes up so you immediately know where you are, and what is around you.

> What do you commonly use it for?

Not smashing into shit! It's perfect for any game that asks you to move around a lot, or if you need to grab a drink or something real quick mid-game, and don't want to screw with the headset.

Edit: I forgot my #1 use! Not kicking my cats!

My cats fucking love to sit at my feet while I play Vive, and I check the camera every now and then to make sure no one is on the floor before I start a match of some actiony game :P

I use 50 foot cables and it works fine. You'll need an USB/Ethernet extender like this


I have found no issues with this and my brother in-law has the same with no issues. Though there is supposed to be some sort of camera feature that won't work, but it hasn't been anything either of us ever used anyway so no loss on our end.

The key is you need to extend BEFORE the link box, the linkbox cable to headset needs to be the normal one. I used an active HDMI cable to go 40feet from my PC, then a USB extender (uses a cat6 cable) to extend the USB. IT worked fine, i had zero issues. I actually ran another 40foot active HDMI to mirror to the TV in that room and had no issues with either.

​

HDMI cable:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0186DNF4K/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

usb extender:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013VP3372/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

You'll need to supply the cat6 cable for the usb side.

Well if you plan on hooking up an external hdd to it, you are going to need a powered USB hub such as this or this for example.

I had one of these at first, and it did everything involving 2 USB ports with no issue.

I decided I wanted more USB ports, so I got one of these. I've been able to Power the Pi itself from one of the USB ports, plug in mouse, keyboard, USB game controller, thumb drive, and charge my phone with no slowdowns.

Edit: Reviews say that the USB hub cannot provide more than 500mA to each USB port, but my Pi seems to be working just fine (running SNES emulators at full speed) - and it has a suggested requirement of ~700mA

I bought this..Plugable USB 2.0 7-Port High Speed Hub with 15W Power Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Z4G3I6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_L3YMwbAEMQAEZ


Works really well.

Besides checking the list posted in the comments you can see if your pi status powered when plugged into the hub and you are able to remove the main power cord.

I use this hub and it doesn't backflow and powers a keyboard, mouse, usb drive, xbox360 controller, etc.

Edit: It also depends if you want to power your pi off of the hub because some hubs only give a max current (500 mA for example) which might not be enough say if you're overclocking or doing some other tasks.

I'm using one of these -- works great: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Z4G3I6

It's amazing to me how every new suggestion you have is a suggestion I find just a little annoying.

"Use plex" in a place where Kodi is better. "Use OSMC" when OpenELEC is my preferred choice. "Use a mouse as backup" when a FLIRC or keyboard is an infinitely better way of using Kodi.

You are correct on the self-powered harddrive though. Unless you are using a self-powered usb hub, where the power of the Pi doesn't matter. I've actually used one of these USB hubs in the past to both power the Pi and give it more (powered) external ports.

You could get one of these and a lighter outlet inverter. Run rasbmc and use the yatse android app for a remote or pocket cloud for vpn.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003Z4G3I6/ref=mp_s_a_1_30?qid=1381737283&sr=8-30&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

Glad you like it!

USB hub:
http://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Power-Adapter-Control-Switches/dp/B0051PGX2I/ref=cm_cr_pr_pb_i

Stand:
http://www.thinkgeek.com/product/d522/

I got it off of Amazon. It's USB 2.0 with 12 ports (one is on the back that you can't see).

Is it possible to use a USB splitter for the Pi? Something like this...

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-2-Port-Compact-Splitter-Windows/dp/B005HKIDF2

I purchased this one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HKIDF2/

Dude, even if this were relevant a usb hub is a 5$ or less purchase. http://smile.amazon.com/Generic-7-Port-USB-Hub-Port/dp/B007S642BW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1396144327&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+hub

Why should I worry

[Someday my prince will come] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0niwn2pOEno) I'm still hoping for that one... really.

[Item] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007S642BW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=26SWLD702LW5B&coliid=I1F63CD8IGMOJK)

Thanks for the contest!!! <3

This USB port is 4.79! Sometimes I need more than three slots.

thanks for the contest!

I have a usb gadget addiction and not nearly enough ports!

You may or may not be looking for an off the shelf solution but this is pretty cheap and works fairly well:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007S642BW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As ePaperWeight mentioned, your shopping list would have a lot to do with what you plan on doing with it.

Keep in mind that the Pi Zero is very cheap partly because it does not have nearly as many ports as a full size Pi. It also has a less capable CPU than a full Pi 3. That being said, it's still impressive that its CPU and RAM are in line with older Pis that were used in all sorts of projects.

The lack of ports means that if you want to connect to USB, HDMI, Ethernet, or Wifi you will need adapters.

For the bare minimum for getting started I would suggest the items included in this kit (not necessarily suggesting the kit itself, these are all standard parts):
https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Zero-Starter-Kit/dp/B01N3XNPAM/ref=sr_1_1

• MicroSD Card (needed to install Raspbian or another OS)
  
• Power Supply (any 5v supply with micro USB aka phone charger)
  
• OTG (On The Go) cable for connecting a full size USB device
  
• Mini HDMI to standard HDMI adapter
  
  This will allow you to get a Zero to boot up and display on a monitor. The single USB port will limit what you can connect, but a wireless keyboard / mouse dongle will at least give you standard input devices.
  
  In order to connect Wifi or Ethernet in addition to a keyboard you will need a USB hub; preferably a powered hub.
  
  To connect a Pi Camera you'll not only need the camera module, but an adapter ribbon cable (the Zero's port is slightly smaller).
  
  The GPIO header does not include pins. This is more configurable, but means that you'll need to solder your own.
  
  As you can see, all this can quickly add up. The Pi Zero really highlights the value of a full Pi. So if you're considering the Zero in order to save money run the numbers. You might not be saving much.
  
  The size and lower power requirements of the Zero make it great for embedded projects. Anything that runs on a battery or needs to fit in a small case would benefit from using a Zero. Even then, the faster speed of a Pi 3 means that it will be a smoother experience to program on the 3 even if you plan to migrate the software to the Zero.
  
  Other links for reference:
  
  
• Pi Camera Module - https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-Camera-Module-Megapixel/dp/B01ER2SKFS/ref=sr_1_1
  
• Pi Zero Camera adapter cable - https://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-v1-3-Camera-Cable-Raspberry/dp/B01LGUJTDG/ref=sr_1_4
  
• GPIO Header Pins - https://www.amazon.com/15Pcs-2-54-Single-11MM-Header/dp/B00FR19WQA/ref=sr_1_2
  
• Ethernet Adapter - https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B00ET4KHJ2/ref=sr_1_4
  
• USB Hub - https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=sr_1_14
  
• Wifi Dongle - https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_3
  
• Absolute insanity down the rabbit hole - https://www.amazon.com/Adeept-Ultimate-Starter-Learning-Raspberry/dp/B01FLSF4PQ/ref=sr_1_9
  
  TLDR; Pick a project and work backwards to figure out a shopping list. Otherwise you'll spend way too much or your new Zero will probably live in a desk drawer.
  
  
  

I use an external USB soundcard with a USB hub with individual switches. When you turn on the switch, it goes to me headphones. When I turn it off, it goes back to speakers.

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=zg_bs_3015427011_1

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=pd_sim_147_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=519JLN5GTLL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=CRQ01Z8W9J8BRX6DS09X

A thirdworlder could have fixed this problem.

Hell, they probably built it.

It's not so "cool" but rather quite practical... I guess the lights are kinda cool =) I'm gonna be needing these pretty soon

Thanks for the contest.

Hurrah, hurrah! ^____^ <3 I submit to you, this handsome USB hub!. And, for my furry friend, a gift he will probably hate. Ohohoho! (-: Thank you for the contest. It's too damn hot outside. It's too damn hot inside!

Yes you take up 1 port but on the bright side it does come with a spilt for charging + reciver

The Plus model just came out recently so there actually is not many bluetooth ones around. They only have the Blue colored (heh) bluetooth i8+ it also it a bit more at 27.99.

Honestly what I would do, if I wasn't using an rpi3 which has 4 usb slots, is get the RF for 21.99 then get a 4 way usb splitter for your other port for 6.49

Here's a dope ass chrome rii i8+ lol

I've seen USB hubs with switches to turn off specific ports. You could set up the controllers, wire the switch up to an exterior panel (or leave the buttons exposed) and use the button to enable/disable controllers.

Sabrent 4-Port USB 2.0 Hub with Individual Power Switches and LEDs (HB-UMLS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KT0pzbNVJYYM9

That is literally the first result from amazon, but I've seen 8 port ones with physical switches as well, which you may be able to extend out of the cabinet.

If you want USB mics, then there are such things as USB port 'extensions' (such as this one). If you want XLR mics than you can get a Audio Interface/Mixer (a mixer would probably be best for podcasting) that is powered by USB, so you can plug the mics into the mixer/interface then plug that into your computer.

I guess that depends on what it is he wants to power. If his retail business is selling weed and he needs to keep those 6-8 burner phones charging (kidding! :p) then it wouldn't take much demand at all and the PSU here will be fine - it's a no-name budget one, but the power demand is extremely low (129W on a 480W PSU) so it's not going to cause issues, but if it is more demanding items he might be best to use something like an EVGA 500W/600W for $20 more - https://pcpartpicker.com/product/V9bp99/evga-power-supply-100b10600kr

The motherboard has six USB inputs and typically cases have two on the front - one would be used by the wifi adapter and likely two more by the keyboard and mouse leaving five. The easiest way to add more might just be to get a USB splitter which use one but give four, so bring him back up to 8 inputs available, good ones can be had for less than $10 - https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1501748521&sr=1-1&keywords=usb+splitter . You can get motherboards with more inputs but typically they tend to cost a good deal more than that.

Ah crap, I knew I forgot something. This is the hub I plan on getting right now.

the thunderbolt dongle won't help because that port on the 2012 macbook is a mini-display-port. Same entry hole, different standard. I would recommend getting a cheap usb 2.0 hub like this one. You can also buy USBin to firewire out adapters

Sorry, I just added the link. Would a hub like this work, if plugged into a cigarette lighter adapter in a car?

http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373999536&sr=8-1&keywords=USB+hub

I have the Asus C300, the 4gb ram model.

I absolutely love it! It's my first chomebook so I can't really compare it to others. But in my 3 months of usage I'm really impressed.

Battery life is fantastic. I do notice a slight drop off when I have bluetooth on (I have a bluetooth mouse I use sometimes as well as bluetooth headphones) but I average about 10-12 hrs of use in a single charge.

Speakers are decent, they get loud, but the tone is a little lacking. If I want something with more bass I connect it to my stereo or headphones.

It's super fast, I often run with about 7 or 8 tabs open as well as various apps and a few extensions and I never notice any lag anywhere.

The 1 usb isn't really a problem, I bought this usb ethernet hub mostly for when my daughter/wife are streaming shows to our amazon fire stick or facetiming family and the wifi would slow down. But it's nice since I can charge my mouse/phone/whatever all at the same time.

I think it has a decent finish and feel to it. It doesn't feel cheap and the keyboard feels solid to me.

I use it for pretty much everything I do, general web surfing to website development. I have to pull out my old windows laptop sometimes for a program one company I work for uses and it's always a disappointment to have to put the chromebook away for that.

All in all I think it's great. When my wife's pc laptop finally craps out I'll be buying one of these for her.

Swap the iFixIt out for their new model, it's MUCH nicer.

Other things I'd throw in:

• For those times you need to figure out how far that cable run really is? Bosch Laser Measure
  
• Occasionally one needs to take apart big things (like racks!), for that you need a nice fat(max) screwdriver
  
• 3 port USB 3.0 hub and Gig Ethernet because you never know when you might need to hardware (and Macbook Air's suck for # of USB ports).
  
  While pricey, I'd also swap duct tape for gaffing tape. Terribly useful, rips easier and doesn't leave residue (unless you leave it there for a REALLY long time).

I completely blanked on ethernet. thanks for reminding me. What would be the pro's of using the Kanex compared to a device like this

http://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Universal-SuperSpeed-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00E7W1UFQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1376259564&sr=1-4&keywords=satechi+ethernet

I have one of these: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E7W1UFQ/ref=twister_B00EUJHANM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 and LOVE it! If you need a SD Card, NIC, or an extra port they have you covered.

I use this one hasn't failed me yet

I'm using the 6ft version. I used to get the same warning and experienced all sorts of trouble with starting up the device (had to reinsert usb and dp until rift s decided to work, static screen flashes, controllers not being detected properly). People suggested that I buy a pcie usb 3.0 or an external powered hub. Tried the latter ( https://www.amazon.com/HooToo-9-Port-Charging-Transfer-iPhone/dp/B00FR795WA/ ) and everything works fine now. The usb driver update warning disappeared also.

I have been buying these because they have a full size USB3 input rather than the micro, which tend to break. I've bought dozens of them for my lab at work (R&D lab at one of the tech giants).

https://www.amazon.com/HooToo-9-Port-Charging-Transfer-iPhone/dp/B00FR795WA

I use one of these, with 7 drives. It works great.

Of course if I didn't plug in the power cord, it might support one, but never more than that.


Edit: Also FWIW, every time I try an Orico product, I find compatibility problems, especially with Linux. And they're pricey.

As an alternative to daisychained monitors, you can get this.

I had the same issue and never found a convincing solution. I'm planning on using it like this. Connect the USB hub(http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Bus-Powered-Converter-Ultrabooks-Compatible/dp/B00IJU0K2Q/ref=lp_281413_1_15?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1407017987&sr=1-15) to the USB port and connect all the peripherals to that hub. It has an Ethernet port as well so I can plug in the cable. This way I will be able to use it as a writing tablet.

I actually use my nVidia Shield more for school work than I do anything else. I use the stylus and Evernote to take notes in my classes. Evernote is wonderful because I have the option to use the handwriting recognition and get nice typed notes without having to type, or I can hit a button on the app and start drawing diagrams or other notes without being converted to text.

I purchased e-books for my textbooks this year so I didn't have to haul books around with me when I go home on the weekends for work purposes or to class. Since I have a desktop, taking it home on the weekends is obnoxious to say the least, so now I'm able to stream my entire desktop to my tablet and work on any computer code I need. The great thing is that a remote stream desktop is very forgiving when it comes to latency. I have a USB 3.0 hub that I use to connect a mouse and keyboard to my tablet with.

When I'm not doing school work I will use the Shield as a second screen with my monitor. I can be watching movies or other videos online while I use the tablet to surf the internet or check facebook.

While I can't claim these will work with the Mi Box, two adapters I can vouch for that work beautifully on the Nexus Player:

https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Gigabit-Ethernet-Converter-Network/dp/B00IJU0K2Q
http://www.joybuy.com/329974.html

First, yes they are USB 3.0 adapters and the ports on the NP/Mi Box are usb 2.0, so you might say overkill, but they max out the usb 2.0 port as much as possible and the price is not too bad.

My favourite of the 2 is obviously the one with the extra USB ports.
It's fantastic for adding peripherals such as a hard drive, a mouse, keyboard, xbox controller, etc., while still maintaining an ethernet connection.

Second one I was actually surprised worked. People were saying that the nexus player didn't support adapters that used the RTL18153 chipset.
However it was simple plug and play.

I would not be surprised if both of these worked on the Mi Box as well.

Directly. Get an OTG cable and a USB ethernet hub. I use the following:

OTG: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JCZ2FQQ
Ethernet: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IJU0K2Q

This also allows you to plug in a USB stick, to store all your legally downloaded roms.

Mine is fine as well!

Edit: this one https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Gigabit-Ethernet-Converter-Network/dp/B00IJU0K2Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506456446&sr=8-1&keywords=%5B2-in-1%5D+Inateck+3+Ports+USB+3.0+Hub+and+RJ45+10%2F100%2F1000+Gigabit+Ethernet+Hub+Converter+LAN+Wired+Network+Adapter+with+a+Built-in+1ft+USB+3.0+Cable

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IJU0K2Q/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[2-in-1] Inateck 3 Ports USB 3.0 Hub and RJ45 10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet Hub Converter LAN Wired Network Adapter with a Built-in 1ft USB 3.0 Cable

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZI94FB/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Infiland Microsoft Surface Pro 4 Case, Slim Shell Stand Cover Case with Stylus Holder for The New MicroSoft Surface Pro 2017/ Surface Pro 4 12.3-Inch Tablet - Starry Night

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A5TWTK0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Microsoft HD Digital A/V Adapter for Surface RT and Surface 2

Get something with a USB ports just in case you need it in the future. I have this and it works good. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IJU0K2Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?qid=1453438350&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX220_SY330_QL65&keywords=usb+3.0+ethernet+adapter+gigabit&dpPl=1&dpID=51fsuemioxL&ref=plSrch

I have the Mi box us version this works just fine and you get ethernet to boot !

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Ethernet-Adapter-Nintendo-Chromebook/dp/B00LLUEJXW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542421908&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=UGREEN+RJ45&dpPl=1&dpID=41JdYzUeyCL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Portable-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00PC07T02/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511936038&sr=1-6&keywords=anker+ethernet+adapter

kinda expensive but you can use ethernet cable

1. ​
   
   I recommend:
   
   

• Dell Premier Display for the color profiles, and the screen overlays while dragging apps that add an extra layer of app window auto-sizing. Do note you might have issues with automatic color profile changes during Netflix and other fast color-changing media playback, which I have yet to solve even after browsing the web and attempting suggested solutions
  
• Dell Connect as it brings something that even Google or Vysor have yet to achieve - seamless smartphone integration. It's tantalizing that Dell has the best phone connectivity app around. The fact I am suggesting in keeping it, to what would otherwise be factory crapware, goes to show how good it performs
  
• DO NOT INSTALL BIOS 1.3.X+ unless you want to lose S3 sleep forever. thank M$ for that one.
  
• Dell Power Manager (or whatever it's called) is essential for achieving the best performance on fans and some components (CPU/GPU/Memory), and the opposite too if you want the chillest, quietest setup, which is unfortunate from Dell to not let the OS take control from. MAX and MIN fan RPM are only achieved through settings on this utility
  
• Every other driver/utility you can stay away from. Dell SupportAssist is nice for checking service tag and other data on the screen, but you can do that a number of other ways. Submitting suppor tickets by phone is preferred IMHO. Dell digital Delivery and Dell update are useless, and so is everything else not mentioned
  
• all other drivers, either let Windows decide or go to each individual device OEM support page and install what you think might have more impact (I suggest Killer for Wifi, LAN for whatever is in your hub, Nvidia for the dGPU, Chipset drivers and iGPU from Intel.
  
  2 .
  
  Do these two (Dell BIST) tests (Dell ePSA). Also run your benchmark of choice (I suggest Unigine Superposition) while running HWInfo and see your Avg. and MAX, temperatures for CPU/GPU, SSD and Dell Chassis components (you need to allow extra sensors on HWInfo), and check throttling flags too. No matter the results, I recommend installing Throttlestop, disabling Turbo Boost for the profile you will be using most, and getting comfortable with its usage, and setting it up to launch at user logon (using Task Scheduler) A repaste might also help, and the same goes for undervolting (either with TS or Intel XTU). Some people are also adding thermal pads to VRM's either to the chassis or to the heatsink (better) for avoiding VRM reaching 100's. This used to be more relevant to 9560/9550, and I am not sure of its benefits on the 9570. If you need help with TS, message me.
  
  I suggest setting these up on BIOS: "Force S3 sleep", F7 key for "no emissions mode", half brightness on battery and do a solid checkup of whatever you feel is better for you on the extensive optionned BIOS that Dell supplies. Once again, do not install 1.3.X+!
  
  ​
  
  3.
  
  I would advise on a USB 3.0 Type A hub with 3- 4 USB 3.0 Type A ports and Gbit LAN like this (I have this, but apparently it went away from all amazon stores since I bought it last month).
  
  Using this kind of dongle has 4 advantages vs dock and USB-C/TB3 dongles:
  
  
• does not take away the single USB-C/Thunderbolt 3 port
  
• doubles Type A ports from the original 2 (since you have to use one, a 3 USB hub effectively adds 2)
  
• has GBit LAN
  
• it's a lot cheaper and more portable than the TB3 swiss army-type dongles available everywhere, and you can always carry an extra TB3 to DP/mDP cable, if HDMI won't suit your display needs
  
  From extensive testing, my Anker hub's LAN port (and likely the new model I suggest) doesn't seem hampered by USB port usage as some report, nor does LAN usage degrades USB devices. I manage ~90mbps on LAN downloading Win 10 from MS servers while simulstaneously doing and external HDD file transfer at around 30mbps (almost the HDD cap for the type of data I was using). My network cap is 100'sh mbps to the WWW. I still suggest using the 3 ports on this for KB/Mouse and maybe a device that isn't constantly using high data, since you're already using this for LAN. Just use the other XPS USB port (or TB3) for higher performance stuff instead. I also had no shielding problems as many users reported for my model.
  
  If you're going for actual >1Gbps (10Gbit) performance on the LAN, I would rather suggest you look up dedicated high-performance TB3 LAN hardware such as this. But at present, that will certainly make you lose the TB3 port as there is no LAN solution with display options that performs as well as dedicated, single port LAN over TB3. But I'm sure if you need that kind of performance you wont care much for having to drive displays through HDMI and USB3 alone. Or you could buy an external PCI-E TB3 enclosure and add a PCI-E lan card for cheaper than the Sonnet I suggest.
  
  ​
  
  4.
  
  About WiFi: I got an Intel 8265 replacement after EXTENSIVE complaints to CS on why my bluetooth devices would degrade WiFi N router speeds to 1/3 or worse (and also made BT devices stutter), and my results, unfortunately, are that the Intel card has exactly the same issues. I blame either the XPS's antenna placement, metal build or bad shielding affecting the way it interacts with other 2.4ghz technoliges, because I haven't noticed this in my other WiFi N-bound laptops and smartphones on the same router/network.

I personally use this, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PC07T02/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fRgKzbGQK0WSY
It's metal so it's durable as hell, USB 3.0 so data speeds are quick as well as giving you more USB ports, and the ethernet was plug and play so I didn't need to install any drivers. I've had it for half a year and I'm pretty happy with it.

Another option is to use a powered USB Hub.

Or if your case has an available 5.25" bay slot, you can use a front panel USB hub like one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/UCEC-5-25-Inch-Front-Panel/dp/B00UBFXMXG/

https://www.amazon.com/Semoic-5-25inch-CD-ROM-Computer-19-pin/dp/B07MV5GKPF/

You can get something like this - https://www.amazon.com/UCEC-5-25-Inch-Front-Panel/dp/B00UBFXMXG

They go into 5.25" drive bays, they also have them in 3.5" floppy bay sizes. Though cases without either bays are getting more common nowadays.

You can also get something like this for more functionality - https://www.amazon.com/Excelvan-Multi-Function-Dashboard-Reader-USB3-0/dp/B00J4FJC8I/

or this https://www.amazon.com/Multi-function-eSata-Reader-Temperature-Dashboard/dp/B00GTEM0HW

You can make them fully external if you want I guess by making a custom enclosure out of wood/plastic whatever, and running the cords out the front or back and protecting/insulating them properly.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 7 1700X 3.4 GHz 8-Core Processor | $149.99 @ Newegg
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master - Hyper 212 LED Turbo (Red) 66.3 CFM CPU Cooler | $44.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | ASRock - B450M PRO4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $54.99 @ Newegg
Memory | Team - Vulcan 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $99.99 @ Newegg
Video Card | Asus - Radeon RX 580 8 GB DUAL Video Card | $184.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair - CX (2017) 750 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $35.99 @ Newegg
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $600.94
| Mail-in rebates | -$30.00
| Total | $570.94
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-11-22 00:57 EST-0500 |

GPU optional (as long as the old one still works! got a friend's pc to try it on?), you'd be moving to a modern 8 core CPU with an upgrade path. I'd suggest replacing the PSU because an 8 year old power supply could have blown the rest of your rig... :( Best not to tempt fate.

You'd keep your storage, fans, case (with something like this you could get FP IO back too! https://www.amazon.com/UCEC-5-25-Inch-Front-Panel/dp/B00UBFXMXG/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1542866316&sr=8-6&keywords=5.25+front+panel)

the rear jack isn't meant for headphones its meant for powered speakers so its a cleaner low level output. unless your soundcard has a setting that can change that on the jack the easiest thing to do would be to replace the broken front jack. you can find all kinds of them in both 5-1/4 and 3-1/2 size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UBFXMXG?psc=1
like that one.

one other idea is if you have powered speakers that have a headphone jack you could plug the headphones in there (i know my bose companion speakers have this and i have seen headphone jacks on other PC speaker sets as well)

I got the NZXT Source 210 elite case and got this of it. Also this is a close up of the panel.The buttons are simple switches that you can get from amazon or ebay. They wire as usual and have the LED's that show you the status.

Here is a good alternative that I found when i ran into the same problem
You could either have the hole thing, as in cut out a bay in the front of the desk and stick it in there, or take out the PCB and make individual cutouts like I did. You would need a cnc router though to make it clean.

Google cnc services in your area and I am sure you can find a place that can do that for you for a relatively cheap amount. I think I paid around $30 to have mine milled.

Hope this helps and Good Luck!

Razer core is technicality the best. :)

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Ethernet-Including-ChromeBook-Aluminum/dp/B00XU6PM68
Should work well to

I bought an Anker usb c ethernet hub. It's great and it gives me extra usb ports too. https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Ethernet-Including-ChromeBook-Aluminum/dp/B00XU6PM68/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468360544&sr=8-1&keywords=anker+usb+c+ethernet

I got the Anker USB-C hub/Ethernet

Anker 3-Port USB-C to USB 3.0 Aluminum Portable Data Hub, with 10 Mpbs, 100 Mbps, 1000 Mbps, or 1 Gigabit Network Adapter with Ethernet Port, for MacBook Pro 2016, ChromeBook, XPS and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XU6PM68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_eEbCzbWHXK7VB

i use this hub at work and home - has ethernet and three 3.0 usb
(for wireless mouse and network)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XU6PM68/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This and this

For that kind of distance, you'll likely need to transfer over Cat6- for both HDMI and USB. In order to do so, you'll need something like this for HDMI: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=21609 and something like this for USB: https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-4-Port-Extender-Ethernet-GUCE64/dp/B013VP3372/

Note- Your existing Cat5 might work for the USB connection, but for HDMI you'll definitely need Cat6.

Also, at 50' you can get away with a good active HDMI cable from the likes of Monoprice. That is my current setup- 50' Active HDMI, and 50' Cat6 USB (using the USB adapter linked above). I will likely be moving to the Cat6 HDMI adapter, as I do have conduit from my office room to where we do VR, thus I can run everything through the walls.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0186DNFLI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013VP3372/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NZHQDY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here's the page I used:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Vive/wiki/cables

and this is what I bought:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I48Q892/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B013VP3372/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I ran these from my bedroom upstairs, through the vent and down into the livingroom closet (there was already a line drilled for the network cord). Fed the HDMI and the Ethernet line down to my entertainment center and it works like a charm, not even any lag. Genuinely surprised. Well... minus the camera situation. Not sure if that's because of my setup or if it's a setting issue.

The below combination works to extend where your vive plugs in by 50 ft with no added latency (i use it). I'm not sure if the 100 ft would work as well.

Cat6 Snagless Ethernet Patch Cable in Black 50 Feet

IOGEAR USB 2.0 4-Port 164' USB Extender Over

Monoprice 50 ft Luxe Series CL3 Active High Speed Premium HDMI Cable

Edit: Total price is just over $100

These worked well for me, but if you need to go over 25 feet you're going to need an active HDMI cable instead:

• AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable - 25 Feet (Latest Standard)
  
  
• IOGEAR USB 2.0 4-Port 164' USB Extender Over Cat5/Cat5e/Cat6 Ethernet Cable (GUCE64)
  
  The 4 port USB extender worked out great because I can have the Vive, my Xbox controller, and my USB headphones all hooked into it with a plug to spare.
  
  
  
  

I've been using mine with a 100' extender for a while now. There's a few threads that describe how others have gotten theirs working (I'm too lazy to find them and link them to you right now though). Here is what ended up working for me:

I'm using this extender: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019MADOS8 for HDMI and it works ok. I paired it with the 100' CableMatters Cat6a cable (which I wouldn't recommend, but I cant find the beefy, quality cable in less than a 500' spool!) I ordered two cables and one was defective. It's also a thin for cat6a. Maybe we could get some people together and split up a spool of the good stuff.

I have to power cycle the repeater when I turn on the vive or else it freaks out and displays a broken signal, but it is holding up ok and I think it would work better if I cut off the extra cable length I didn't need and re-terminate the cable so it's shorter (I only needed about a 70ft run).

For the USB, I installed this extender: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013VP3372 but ended up sending it back. It worked, but it couldn't provide enough bandwidth to run the Vive camera along with everything else. Instead, I am just using a passive repeater cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081LNQR4 which works perfectly fine. I have the 65ft repeater cable plugged into a 16ft non-repeater extension to get some extra length and this works flawlessly, I can even use the camera.

My lighthouses are about 8ft up and 22ft apart (using the link cable) and it all works very well. It did take some trial and error. Here's my advice:

• Try using your repeater with a shorter cat6 or cat6a cable (<10') - if it works, go and find the best quality cat6a cable you can find and cut it to the shortest length that will work and go from there. It might work, or you might need to find a better repeater. Mine worked fine for video signals even when it didn't for the vive so that's not a great test other than to prove that the repeater is functioning at all.
  
• I just re-read your post and see that you are using cat5e - try cat6a if you can, it provides superior range than cat5e. Also, test the cat5e cable you have with a computer (or purpose-built cable tester/certifier if you have access to one) to make sure it works at all. For what it's worth, I'm 90% certain my run wouldn't work with cat5e, it just barely makes it with the cat6a.
  
• I'd also recommend testing each (USB extender and HDMI extender) separately so one doesn't create problems for the other.

I was using an Anker hub with PD that I had bought for a Chromebook. It ended up being annoying because the built in cable to connect to my 2019 MBP was too short. I have my MBP on a stand and it would hang awkwardly in the air. Here is a link to the old hub: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Delivery-Charging-Chromebook/dp/B07DD8BLJW

I had this laying around and decided to start using it again: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Gigabit-Ethernet-Converter-Support/dp/B014ZOJX7W

Instead of using an adapter for the existing USB A to B cable I bought a new skinny cable instead: Cable Matters Type-C USB 3.1 Type B Cable (USB-C / USB C USB B 3.0 / Type-C USB 3.1 to USB B ) in Black 3.3 Feet https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UXKTJE0

This setup gives me 3 high speed USB 3.0 ports and gigabit Ethernet. Plus it's small and easy to pack up. I like that the new Cable Matters cable is detachable (of course) and it's extremely thin. Kinda cool. :shrug:

Sorry about that. I have the Anker USB 3.0 one.


https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Portable-Ethernet-Network-Notebooks/dp/B014ZOJX7W

So what's the advantage over something like this?

I can see Dell's solution supports one extra monitor (you can connect 2 monitors to the Blade as is), but I don't really know many people who need three screens.. It also has 2 more USB 2.0 ports, but, again, I don't know many people who need more than 6 ports (which you do get together with Anker's hub). Other than that, Anker's hub should do everything that TB3 dock does. Because it's a USB3.0 hub you can also still use the TB3 port for whatever.

Oh and of course it's like 12 times cheaper and much smaller in size (so you can take it anywhere). Kind of a no-brainer to me.

I picked up this Anker 3-Port USB 3.0 Hub w/Gigabit Ethernet for my Chromebook. I use my Chromebook for IT classes, and it's great to run Gigabit Ethernet over USB 3.0 for remote connections, and super nice to have some extra ports. I've been impressed with the build quality, and have since purchased other Anker products. Really good prices and build quality.

You'll probably need something like this.

USB to Ethernet Hub

I used a Surface Pro 3 when they first came out. I now have a work-issued Surface Book and it works great! The dock is definitely the key. At my desk, I have the dock with 3 28" high res monitors and then use my Surface display as a 4th display. Be advised, you'll need a USB to HDMI or USB to DisplayPort adapter to drive a fourth display.

I also keep this Anker USB Ethernet Hub in my backpack for when I'm out and about. It solves all my USB/Ethernet needs.
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Portable-Ethernet-Network-Notebooks/dp/B014ZOJX7W/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542194662&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=anker+usb+ethernet+hub&dpPl=1&dpID=41N7AqLCVXL&ref=plSrch

I also have a Surface Pro 4 for personal use.

EDIT: A pic of my desk setup. http://imgur.com/gallery/YDLWuG0

Like this Anker? Looks like a great idea. https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Portable-Ethernet-Network-Notebooks/dp/B014ZOJX7W

I use the microsoft Sculpt Comfort Mouse, bluetooth. No issues with it.

I mean, this one only has 2, but it's neat: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01JM7T56Q/ref=nav_timeline_asin?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

And this one: https://smile.amazon.com/Anker-Portable-Ethernet-Network-Notebooks/dp/B014ZOJX7W/ref=sr_1_16?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1502231117&sr=1-16&keywords=anker+usb+hub


They have hubs on Amazon that have a couple USB ports, an HDMI, and ethernet, but they start at around $60.

I don't disagree with you, but what is the use case of carrying around the dock? I have the SP3 dock primarily so that I have a place to plug my SP3 into when I get home and not have to dig out all of the cables and string everything back together. I have it connected to a couple of 24" monitors and a hardwired network connection. If you are going to carry it around with you wouldn't you be better off with just a USB hub? I have one of these that I carry in my bag for day to day use.

http://www.amazon.com/Anker-Gigabit-Ethernet-Converter-Support/dp/B014ZOJX7W

This hub
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014ZOJX7W?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00

This OTG
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N9S9Z0G?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00

Excellent. One more thing, comparing a netgate box to something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AJEJG1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pUyCybV02ABSP
Is it worth purchasing dedicated hardware with the ASIC, or is it hard to tell the difference? Saw this and it's got similar specs to the 2440.

Protecli

I bought one of these, (but w/o ram and storage since I already had it)

never looked back.
runs w/o fan, fairly cheap for what you get. And I had no problems getting it going.
64bit, and its got enough cpu headroom that encryption / vpn isn't an issue with 1 - 3 users.

https://www.amazon.com/Firewall-micro-appliance-Gigabit-Intel/dp/B01AJEJG1A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511615877&sr=8-1&keywords=pfsense+box

I'm personally not a fan of any "Gateway" devices. (aka, modem/router combo box). Besides paying monthly to rent it from the ISP, they make it difficult to use real networking gear. You're much better of buying just a regular modem and then using your own router. This will at least remove double NAT from the mix.

You can then use your Asus router , hooked directly to the modem. Or if you're feeling up for it, go with Pfsense.
I've been using a PFsense appliance like This one which works pretty well. For a home, you could get away with something Like this if you don't need extra network ports.

I have one of these and it is brilliant:

https://www.amazon.com/Firewall-micro-appliance-Gigabit-Intel/dp/B01AJEJG1A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1496019883&sr=8-2&keywords=pfsense

I use the OPT interfaces trunked to a managed switch and a wireless AP (ASUS router with tomato shibby). It's quiet, fanless and it runs snort, pfBlockerNG, OpenVPN 24/7 just fine! I have at least 5 clients running all the time and a Plex server that friends use. It's a beautiful little box.

So, as I'm sure you're aware, a generic "router" you get is actually a router, firewall, switch, and AP built into one device.

pfSense is an open source router/firewall that's built on top of Linux/OpenBSD. It's pretty simple to setup as it has a nice GUI but it also supports a lot of advanced features. It basically can run on anything with a processor, memory, HDD, and a NIC. Now optimally you want something that has at least 2x GB Intel ports.

I have my pfSense currently running on a mini ITX computer with an i5-2500k as I had it laying around, but that consumes a little more power.

Some people use devices like this which are low power and fanless. Some people buy little boxes like this where you add your own RAM/HDD/SSD and it's also low power.

The only thing that sucks is that this stuff costs money. Even when you buy used gear, it's still not as cheap as buying generic stuff. You can go to Best Buy and get some crazy Nighthawk all in one device for $200-300.

With this route you're going to spend $200+ on a pfSense router/firewall, ~$30-100 on a managed switch, and $50-100 on an AP but you have much more control over your environment.

Or you could go with a Ubiquiti router/gateway/firewall for ~$100 and then add on a managed switch and AP.

Or some people buy a virtualization server and run their pfSense firewall on a VM. Decently equipped servers can be had for $200-500 when all said and done.

There's really a lot of options.

I work in an area of netsec and have my switch mirroring/SPANing all the traffic to Snort which sends all the alerts to a Splunk box. You can also run Snort directly on a pfSense box.

> What about this? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AJEJG1A/ looking at this video, its a quad core celeron.

Nope, Atom based and no AES-NI = slow VPN. Again, quad, 8, 16+ core does zero for OpenVPN. A fast dual core is much better for this use case.

> EDIT: Here is their new one, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0741F634J/

That would certainly give far better performance in OpenVPN than any Atom based system. Not sure if it would make it to 500 Mbps, but likely close.

You may also want to look at something like the Qotom q355g4 which has a faster i5 CPU.

This is the one I have and it's fantastic.

I'm currently on the ThinkPad TB3 Dock and it does power delivery.

https://support.lenovo.com/us/en/accessories/acc100356

I'm not sure about the dual display setup, i used a second adapter for USB-C -> HDMI for that. Sometimes the display manager freaked out when coming back from sleep that's why i changed to a single 27" 4k display now.

For traveling i use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Aluminum-Multi-Port-Adapter-Ethernet/dp/B01FWT7MEA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1542814446&sr=8-5&keywords=satechi+usb-c+adapter

I’m using a satechi one :amazon

It’s got all the ports I potentially could’ve wanted on the Mac. It can heat up a bit and I’m not sure about it’s Hdmi / Ethernet port capabilities as I have no use for it so I didn’t test it yet.

I am looking at something like this: Satechi Multi-Port Adapter

This would also eliminate any other adapters I might need at the moment until newer devices start to implement USB-C

I think those links are for another of their products. This is the one I'm talking about, although there might have been a slight update.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01FWT7MEA/ref=cm_cr_srp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8

To answer your question, it is up to you, if you feel the product will be of the quality that you are seeking. In addition, keep in mind that people are more likely to leave a negative review than a positive review about a product so some of the positive recommendations go unpublished.

For example, I have used the Apple USB to Ethernet adaptor (see link below) for over 5 years. It has a 2.5 star rating on the Apple Store with lots of complaints; however, it has worked for me without any problems.

https://www.apple.com/au/shop/product/MC704ZM/A/apple-usb-ethernet-adapter?afid=p238%7Csx7pxEYBw-dm_mtid_18707vxu38484_pcrid_115761117166_&cid=aos-au-kwgo-pla-btb-product-MC704

My apologies, looks like that was confusing (was not intended to be). Clarifying, I was looking at doing 3 USB-C to HDMI and then using a dock/hub to handle USB and ethernet. Thoughts?

Dock I was thinking about - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01FWT7MEA/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1500569051&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=USB-c+dock&dpPl=1&dpID=51zxp5dugRL&ref=plSrch

However, I may just hold off till the hengedock comes out - https://hengedocks.com/pages/tethered-docks

A one of their horizontal dock would be legit but 5 hundo is a bit steep for me.

I have a similar dongle by Anker, and it works for what you describe. I tried with a DualShock 4 and works fine, just make sure to connect the dongle to power before connecting it to the phone. Also, make sure to power the dongle with a USB-PD charger. When I connected a USB-A charger to the dongle via a A-to-C cable, the phone didn't get almost any current, it said "slowly charging" but with my USB-PD meter inline it said about 0.08A was going in, which is practically nothing. The phone wasn't losing battery powering the dongle and DualShock, but it was losing battery just as if there was nothing connected.

This is a lot better dongle, btw, and cheaper with the current $5 coupon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HMLTCPL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It has an extra USB-C port (works with USB-C headphones), and 100W charging capability, among other extra features.

Any USB-A port, or USB-A to USB-C cable will only charge up to 1.5A. Most USB-A computer ports though only support USB 2.0 or USB 3.0 power (500mA or 900mA). For a computer USB-A port to support 1.5A, they usually have a label indicating they are also "charging" ports, or you would just have to test yourself. If you're interested in testing your charging in different scenarios, I recommend buying one of those hardware USB-PD meters. I have the Satechi one but you may find others with more features or cheaper. Apps like Ampere are not accurate, they can only approximate, and especially with USB-PD they are worse because of the different voltages.

Hi,

Thanks for commenting, really appreciate any help. The battery capacity is 17.85Ah. When I'm measuring using a simple little device the mAh reading ticks up once every couple of seconds. I would say we get about 8 hours life from a full charge.

The issue would be internal to the cable itself, basically the problem cables don't use the right amount of resistance which can allow the device too draw too much power and fry it.

The only way to test this really is with a multimeter to measure the flow of electricity compared to what the Switch is designed to draw. (Which we don't know in portable mode)

For now, it's probably best to just browse the ratings on Amazon to see if anyone has tested the resistance in that cable. Good luck, I hope it's a good one for you!

I got this power bank about 3 weeks ago and I really like it. Charges my 2016 MacBook Pro, Switch, and phone just fine. Also seems to follow USB PD protocols pretty well (at least from what I've seen using this). My question has to do with its output. It outputs 14.5v / 3a in handheld and docked mode. I tried using it for a little bit in docked mode and it worked just fine, but should I avoid doing that in the future since it doesn't output the 15v / 2.6a the Switch's original charging brick outputs?

The important thing to look at is which USB-C Power Delivery profiles both you device an charger support. Your device will usually fast charge at the highest profile booth devices support, then drop to 5v once the battery is mostly charged. Chargers usually have the supported profiles written in tiny text on them. Devices you usually have to Google around to figure out what they support.

I really like the this Anker charger that will charge my Pixel, Switch, and MacBook pro (though only at 2A@15v):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01D8C6ULO

I would avoid mixing devices and charger that do and don't support Power Delivery, like Nexus 5x/6p era stuff and 2016+ stuff.

If you really want to go down to rabbit hole, you can get one of these devices to see what's going on:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MT8MC3N/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1497123782&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=usb+c+power+meter&dpPl=1&dpID=31YLC7vMnbL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Delivery-Charging-Chromebook-Pixelbook/dp/B072Q1SKZR/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1511115757&sr=8-17&keywords=Aukey+type+c

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071ZPM6VQ/ref=psdc_281413_t2_B072Q1SKZR

EDIT: first product is not Switch-compatible.

I use an Aukey USB-C dock ( presumably this one) to connect a 2560*1440 screen through HDMI. It's been great for productivity, although I have some problems as my laptop's screen is 4K, so there's persistent scaling issues that are only solved by a reboot

That's an inexpensive solution that works well, and you can connect a keyboard and mouse to it like I do. I know Dell sells a dedicated dock but it's a lot more expensive.

Kind of.

I've had a pretty good experience with the Aukey one (HDMI+USB3 A+ Charging) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072Q1SKZR/ and the Juiced Systems hub (HDMI+USB3 A+Ethernet+Charging) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NAAZ0E0 kind of works too.

The Aukey one is more consistent so I can have everything plugged into the hub (power+HDMI+devices), then plug the hub into the pocket and everthing works. Usually if things don't work, unplugging the hub and re-plugging it in gets all the devices to rescan and everything works. The downside is there's no ethernet or card reader built in, so you would need to use up some of those USB3 A ports on the hub.

The Juiced systems one (despite being much more expensive!) frequently has glitches. I think this is due to how power delivery works on it. It will power devices with just the charging cable in without being connected to a host. So if you keep the charging cable in and then plug the whole thing into the pocket, my experience is that the pocket will only detect charging and some devices will not work (no display output). If you don't have th power cable in, everything works but then plugging in the power cable does not charge the pocket. The only way I could get this to be somewhat consistent is to: (1) Get a larger wattage charger (2) have the power un-plugged with only the HDMI plugged in (3) plug the hub into the Pocket then (4) plug in the power and (5) at the very end, plug in any other usb devices. Even like this, the last step is still sometimes inconsistent and sometimes I have to use a separate USB hub on the USB A port on the Pocket as no devices would detect on the hub.

We've used these with our 2018 touchbar pros (as well as the models without touchbar) and are able to use them with the machine closed like you asked... though this one is HDMI and not DVI:
https://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Aluminum-Multi-Port-Adapter-Pass-Through/dp/B075FW7H5J/ref=pd_cp_147_1?pd_rd_w=x8dQh&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=3R3ZM131TA04Q0TJEH2S&pd_rd_r=34da322e-1311-4e24-8fce-94688cf50a53&pd_rd_wg=LLAZK&pd_rd_i=B075FW7H5J&psc=1&refRID=3R3ZM131TA04Q0TJEH2S

The problem is that most of these adapters (not just this brand) seem to still be trying to catchup to the tech. These adapters (again, not just this brand) all run pretty hot and seem to run into problems as far as connection goes. A lot of the time the solution is to unplug it and put it into a different USB C port on the machine and it can usually resolve the issues. That said, a lot of our users seem to burn through theirs and they become VERY finicky to the point that if they bend a certain way the monitors no longer connect until the adapter is repositioned just right.

With that in mind, I'm still on my original one, so as long as the user won't be moving it or placing the adapter so the cable bends at awkward angles it should be fine (well, more of the standard hit-or-miss).

I run naked as I just prefer that. I like to keep it thin and I’m very careful with my stuff. For an adapter I use this one: Satechi Aluminum Multi-Port Adapter V2-4K HDMI (30Hz), Gigabit Ethernet, USB-C Pass-Through, SD/Micro Card Slots, USB 3.0 for 2016/2017/2018 MacBook Pro, 2015/2016/2017 MacBook and More (Space Gray) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075FW7H5J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_E-gMBb8VA6191

It’s incredible. Has everything you’ll need IMO and I love the addition of Ethernet.

Satechi Aluminum Multi-Port Adapter V2: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075FW7H5J/ref=emc_b_5_t

In that case go with this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Aluminum-Multi-Port-Ethernet-Pass-Through/dp/B075FW7H5J/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1527173808&sr=8-2&keywords=satechi+hub+usb-c

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075FW7H5J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sketchable is mentioned a lot, and you may also trial Mischief and Leonardo to compare before you commit to buying one of them.

OneNote UWP and OneNote 2016 are both great. I recently installed Nebo to try - haven't gotten far, but seems interesting. Plumbago is another note taking / sketching option I've liked.

I travel with mine and don't need the Surface Dock, but do want extra USB ports and ethernet. The Anker USB/Ethernet extension is an option that gets recommended often. You may also want to grab a mini display port to HDMI cable, too. When I travel, I also take a work laptop and need an external mouse for it. I bought a Logitech MX Master and use the USB dongle on the laptop and connect to the SP4 with Bluetooth (or vice-versa if the SP4 battery gets low). It is a big mouse, though - if size matters, the Microsoft Arc Mouse Surface Edition is an obvious choice.

As for other applications, it depends on what you do. I have Wikipedia, Wolfram Alpha, Netflix, Spotify, Readit, GOG and Steam installed. I'm a developer, and have Atom, Git for Windows, and Bash on Ubuntu for Windows installed, too. And since I am also an amateur photographer, I have Lightroom and Photoshop CC.

https://www.amazon.com/Firewall-Micro-Appliance-Intel-PFSense/dp/B01AJEJG1A/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1485315653&sr=1-2&keywords=pfsense

these are cheap, and have good reviews.

How about this router Firewall Micro Appliance With 4x Gbe Intel Lan Ports for PFSense https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AJEJG1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_49sDybS33ETKK

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AJEJG1A

Looks the same as some other units, but it has pfsense specific labeling (OPT1, OPT2, etc). Loads of 5 star reviews and i've been super happy with the performance.

In hardware form, you can have a look at these options, but they are expensive.

• Sophos XG85 - $250 + whatever the web filtering license is, I couldn't find the pricing.
  
  
• pfSense SG-2220 - $279. Great software, you can get a ton of modules to do whatever you want. It might not be the most easy thing to configure, but there are lots of tutorials on the net.
  
  
• Meraki MX64 - $595 for the device, $600/yr for the advanced license to get the filtering. Extremely powerful, quite easy to setup, but it's the most expensive. I put it here more as a comparison.
  
  If you have an old PC, you can load up pfSense on it for free. Get a $15 network card so you have two interface and voila. It will do the exact same thing as the SG-2220 for a fraction of the cost.
  
  Hope this helps.

What was your total after getting all the required components?

This unit seems to be the perfect pfSense box:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AJEJG1A/

I bet they ordered this: Firewall Micro Appliance With 4x Gbe Intel Lan Ports for PFSense https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AJEJG1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Eit2xbB7ECEXX

Just went with one of these for my home office, very nice unit so far.

https://www.amazon.com/Firewall-Micro-Appliance-Intel-PFSense/dp/B01AJEJG1A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474290765&sr=8-1&keywords=pfsense

I was looking to upgrade my Alix 2D3 to something like this. I did NOT purchase it and I have no affiliation with the seller, you can search on ebay and other places for similar hardware. I'm keeping an eye out for something like that but maybe in the $150 range. Right now I moved to a consumer router that I got for a great deal. It's running a custom firmware, offers dual wan, and it's working out well enough for what I need at home but does have some quirky issues. I do miss pfSense, if I find a good deal on low watt system I'll probably jump back.

Occasionally you can find decent info on the pfSense forums as well.

You'll need a firewall. Theres some off the shelf products but I use this firewall with pfsense https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AJEJG1A/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_l0uBCbV27Z104

Then you'll need something like dyndns so you can reference your VPN by DNS vs IP.

For adblocking, you can look into the pi-hole project - basically, with no more than a raspberry pi you can do a vast majority of adblocking. I have some firewall level rules for adblocking, but the vast majority of it is done at the DNS level, as pi-hole does.

A simpler way to use that laptop (or NUC), look into this minipcie gigabit NIC. As long as your laptop already has a (gigabit) NIC, that would you get the requite number of ports to play with pfSense. Though, the bios whitelisting thing still applies - you'd want to check into that first. The NUC shouldn't have that issue.

Truthfully, at the most basic level, there's not a huge difference in a pfSense box vs a conventional wireless router, in regards to basic firewall functionality. By default, both are going to deny all incoming connections that don't have an explicit exception (port forwarding), and outgoing traffic is not touched. Of course, there's rather more (okay, a lot more) configuration available compared to a normal router, even one with dd wrt or openwrt.

For basic routing/firewall duties, there exist a number of basic atom-powered boxes (not far removed from your NUC!) that are relatively inexpensive, that are more than capable of doing the job. I've heard this one is popular, though I'm sure there are more options. You'd be better off checking out /r/pfsense for more recommendations.

Where more CPU horsepower (and pfSense) comes in handy is if you want to do something like run counter-intrusion software such as snort, which monitors traffic for suspicious patterns (known exploits, bad servers, or malware traffic, for instance) and can then block offenders. Another case would be if you want to perform virus scanning/malware on web browsing traffic via squid and clamav. Or, if you would like to direct traffic over a VPN at the network level. All of these require a bit more gumption than your basic off the shelf router has going for it. Of course, all of these require a bit of tweaking to get dialed in, but that's half the fun.

Oops linux... linux on everything.

For pfsense, I eventually plan on using something like this when I feel like blowing more money.. I've considered running it in a VM but I'd prefer to have a dedicated box for the router. My esxi box has dual gigabit nics, and a free PCIe slot if I wanted to add more, so I can technically do it

1000 CAD is going to be plenty.

ebay store mrrackables has tons of storage machines you can snag up for 300-500 usd which can solve most of your needs. (nas + vm support)

From there you can pick up a mini pfsense box for 200-300 and a switch for 100-200.

Max spent would be 1000 usd or low end 750 usd

https://www.amazon.com/Firewall-micro-appliance-Gigabit-Intel/dp/B01AJEJG1A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1494349383&sr=8-2&keywords=pfsense

This is the pfsense box I use for my 300/100 cable and it works fine. I picked up a great netgear switch with POE for 50$ off mercari

For raid, it depends on what you want to spend $$$ wise some options can be cheaper then others.

Edit: conversion

1000 Canadian Dollar equals
727.00 US Dollar

I've got two sites that do this on old Netgate APU4s.

For modern hardware, you'd want the SG-2440. It's got 4 ports so you can easily hang 3 ISPs off it if you want. From there setting up load balance and failover is pretty easy (there are guides for this).

Now as far as budget- the SG-2440 is $550, which is less than you'd pay for a 'big name' router (Cisco etc) with similar features.

However if budget is a primary concern, you could go with other hardware.

Amazon has this noname NUC-based China box for $270. It seems to have good reviews, but keep in mind you're on your own with that- have to install pfSense yourself and no official support if you have a problem.

Alternatively, you could always just grab a spare old PC, blow all the dust out / make sure there's no bad caps, run memtest86+ for a while to make sure it's stable, and then call it a router. I recommend replacing HDD with a cheap small SSD. A quad port Ethernet card will finish that build and make it a useful router. Again, installation is all you and there's no support like there is with official hardware.

Hope that helps!

this oughtta do ya fine: https://www.amazon.com/Firewall-Micro-Appliance-Intel-PFSense/dp/B01AJEJG1A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482219924&sr=8-1&keywords=pfsense



I have 3 that I've installed so far, one at work, one at home and one for a media company that has gig fiber. It's plenty fast.

What about this? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AJEJG1A/ looking at this video, its a quad core celeron. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FMNkJBtDWYE


EDIT: Here is their new one, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0741F634J/

I just got one of these about a month ago. Very solid so far.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AJEJG1A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have dual cable internet going into the thing, so far it has handled everything i've thrown at it...

I’ve started to deploy these at work for both MacBooks and Pros and had a lot of success. I tested it on my MacBook for months prior to deploying. Works really well!
Satechi Aluminum Multi-Port Adapter 4K HDMI (30Hz), Type-C Pass Through, Gigabit Ethernet, SD/Micro Card Reader, and 3 USB 3.0 Ports For MacBook 12 and New MacBook Pro 2016 (Space Gray) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FWT7MEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ex5gAb3B9VW4A

Apple’s USB C adapter is really good too if you need just the basics.

For keyboard and mouse I highly recommend you use a Bluetooth option since port are limited no matter what option you choose for a dock.

My favorite: Satechi Aluminum Multi-Port Adapter 4K HDMI (30Hz), Type-C Pass Through, Gigabit Ethernet, SD/Micro Card Reader, and 3 USB 3.0 Ports For MacBook 12 and New MacBook Pro 2016 (Space Gray) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FWT7MEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0bitzbX1R9QET

Hello these 8 in 1 usb c hub on amazon , the hub have a good price ,you could compare them

1.79.99$ https://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Aluminum-Multi-Port-Ethernet-Pass-Through/dp/B075FW7H5J

2.89.99$ https://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Aluminum-Multi-Port-Adapter-Ethernet/dp/B01FWT7MEA

3.44.99$ https://www.amazon.com/Joody-Ethernet-Delivery-MacBook-ChromeBook/dp/B07L7PJJF7

4.48.99$ https://www.amazon.com/Joody-U8plus-Ethernet-Delivery-ChromeBook/dp/B07L7NX9JC

​

MOKiN USB-C to HDMI/USB 3.0/USB C/F Multiport Adapter Supports 4K- Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IUXA9YK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1G8vzbZXQ76F7

This one works flawlessly.

This one is the best one out there

Satechi Aluminum Multi-Port Adapter 4K HDMI (30Hz), Type-C Pass Through, Gigabit Ethernet, SD/Micro Card Reader, and 3 USB 3.0 Ports For MacBook 12 and New MacBook Pro 2016 (Space Gray) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FWT7MEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_eI8vzb0SQKKQ5

There is a all in one adapter I found for $80 https://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Aluminum-Multi-Port-Adapter-Ethernet/dp/B01FWT7MEA/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1478468604&sr=1-2&keywords=Satechi+Aluminum+Multi-Port+Adapter+4K+%28Space+Gray%29

Something like this, or this?

Hence the USB-C hub recommendation. You can do it whichever way you'd like but I think it'd be a better setup with a hub.

This works great and also enables DeX https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FWT7MEA/

No problems at all here with that. I have one of these I used to use on my MacBook: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FWT7MEA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Its really small and connects me to anything. I don't need to use it often because these days for presentations I can connect wireless to most conference rooms.

https://smile.amazon.com/Satechi-Multimeter-Chargers-External-Capacity/dp/B01MT8MC3N/

You mean using a meter like this? That's actually not a bad idea at all, I own two different ones of those (the Satechi and a Pluggable, both seem accurate unlike the USB A ones I had where one drifted badly)...

I might give it a go, though I'd still need to do a more traditional and tedious test to compare it vs Bluetooth. Putting a phone in airplane mode and killing extraneous background processes is usually good enough to do some rundown tests like this.

Gotta ask, innergie charger has the same specs as ZMI 45W and has same wattage profiles: 5V/3A, 9V/3A, 12/3A, 15V/3A (Max wattage), 20V/2.25A, so this should be fine correct? I have used it with zero issues with my switch charging in handheld and docked with the Nintendo OEM and fast snail dock. Power meter shows all in compliance.



Links to for mentioned charger, dock and power meter:

ZMI PowerPlug Turbo 45W Wall Charger USB-C PD Power Adapter, Laptop Charger for new MacBook/Pixelbook, Fast Charging iPhone 8/8 Plus/X, Samsung S8/S8+, Pixel/Pixel 2, Nintendo Switch, GoPro HERO5 / 6 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071911MG5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4khVAbH4DHA5W

FastSnail HDMI Type C Hub Adapter for Nintendo Switch, HDMI Converter Cable for Nintendo Switch (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074MYLP9C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_64Xd2IDZk6bnl

Satechi USB-C Power Meter Tester Multimeter for New Macbook, Macbook Pro, Test Speed of Chargers, Cables, External Battery Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MT8MC3N?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I've had pretty good experience with this one from Aukey:https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Delivery-Charging-Chromebook-Pixelbook/dp/B072Q1SKZR/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1518399722&sr=1-3&keywords=aukey+usbc+hdmi

Just bear in mind that the USB C standard doesn't support HDMI 2.0, thus 4k will be limited to 30 FPS. For greater resolutions and or frame rates, a Thunderbolt 3 adapter would be necessary although these are neither cheap or easy to find.

I use a similar one and it works fine for the sensors. I have all 3 hooked up to it. Usb for the headset doesn't work though, I had to use onboard usb and HDMI/DP.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Delivery-Charging-Chromebook-Pixelbook/dp/B072Q1SKZR&ved=0ahUKEwi25MTR-dnXAhXqsFQKHfHeCwEQFggmMAA&usg=AOvVaw0cXwCZ6KkZ2z-Y5pEP4MhN

I'm sorry to hear. I got this one, and once in awhile WiFi will hiccup due to the USB 3.0 ports, but that is just the nature of USB 3.0. It looks like this is an updated version though from what I bought:
https://smile.amazon.com/AUKEY-Delivery-Charging-Chromebook-Pixelbook/dp/B072Q1SKZR/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1509845942&sr=1-3&keywords=aukey+usb+c+hub

I also lucked out and got it for $25.

Hello,
About accessories, I try 2 hub USB Type-C for charging and use usb remote in same time.:
Aukey hub : https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Delivery-Throughput-MacBook-Chromebook/dp/B072Q1SKZR/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498911025&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=AUKEY+Hub+USB+C+4+Port+USB+3.0
It's doesn't work. No charge and no USB port work.
QacQoc : https://www.amazon.fr/puissance-p%C3%A9riph%C3%A9riques-MacBook-ChromeBook-PixeliMac/dp/B01LXNKE25/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1498910974&sr=8-5&keywords=hub+usb+type+c
Best quality : Charge seem work but not USB Port. If I put remote (logitech mouse or air mouse) and connect to pico after. The mouse work but pico doesn't charge :'(
Anybody try another hub type-C ? It's work for you ?
Thx

I've bought this one to use it with my Chromebook Pro and so far it has been working perfectly:

https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Delivery-Throughput-MacBook-Chromebook/dp/B072Q1SKZR/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499536771&sr=8-1&keywords=aukey+usb+c+hub

Power source, wireless mouse, Corsair K65 keyboard and external HDD are all connected to this hub.

https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Delivery-Charging-Chromebook-Pixelbook/dp/B072Q1SKZR

I've used this hub with a lot of success with multiple laptops including a C302 and my current laptop a MacBook 12in. The USB C port on the hub also supports charging up to 28watts, I believe. It would charge my C302 and MacBook 12in while being used at least.

If you're wondering about the stuff I used:

Stand: https://www.amazon.com/Tecboss-Foldable-Multi-Angle-Adjustable-Nintendo/dp/B06XSZCTX3/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1526395357&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=tecboss+stand&psc=1

Keyboard: https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Mechanical-Keyboard-Tactile-High-Speed/dp/B009C98NPY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526395377&sr=1-1&keywords=g710%2B

Mouse:https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Master-Wireless-Mouse-High-precision/dp/B01M0S8YOK/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526395393&sr=1-4&keywords=mx+master&dpID=41I3eZC6tyL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch (Using this one but S2 is out)

Headphones: https://www.amazon.com/Sony-MDR-1000X-Cancelling-Bluetooth-International/dp/B01LXS5BXS/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526395452&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=mdr+1000x&psc=1&smid=A6EGA15UEFYEQ (Same thing, new version is out)

USB C Dock/Hub: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072Q1SKZR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mouse nub replacements: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MXKW6S5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This has worked well for me: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B072Q1SKZR

Remember to look carefully if 4K+60Hz is important to you (this one does 30). Generally you have to get an expensive one for that feature.

I have this one and it works perfectly:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B072Q1SKZR/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1505188742&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=aukey+hdmi+usb+c&dpPl=1&dpID=416rNcDqW-L&ref=plSrch

There is an extra USB-C Port on it, which enables you to charge the host device and other connected USB Devices.

I use this one. Work likes a charm.

We buy this for Mac laptop users:
https://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Aluminum-Multi-Port-Ethernet-Pass-Through/dp/B075FW7H5J
It has ethernet, 3 usb-a ports, and HDMI. I wish Apple made something with ethernet, but they do not. I’d be curious to see what other people recommend, though.

https://i.imgur.com/kuzSV13.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Aluminum-Multi-Port-Ethernet-Pass-Through/dp/B075FW7H5J/

If you can get this or something similar it will save you so many headaches in the future

Satechi Aluminum Multi-Port Adapter V2-4K HDMI (30Hz), Gigabit Ethernet, USB-C Pass-Through, SD/Micro Card Readers, USB 3.0 - Compatible with 2018 MacBook Pro/Air, 2018 iPad Pro (Space Gray) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075FW7H5J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_e9dECbM31M2SJ

Yes. For example, I have one like this (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075FW7H5J), and am able to read microSD and standard SD cards. They show up on the ipadOS Files app, when plugged in.

Satechi USB-C Hub
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075FW7H5J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Would this work?

Thanks!

Issue with the Rasp Pi is it's crap USB support. Only 2 ASICs are shown because I'm bad at drawing :(

The Red Fury's are in the USB 2.0 hub which go to the Rasp Pi. I also had an Ice Fury which I think is what you're seeing which is actually incompatible with the Rasp Pi because of its crap USB support (HIDAPI related). So that was actually just in the box and actually went back to my main Windows Desktop PC. I've since got a better USB hub a lovely 2.0 hub that the Rasp Pi gets on with and added two AntMiner U2s and it works great.

Lots of fun!

This one comes with a 3 amp power supply that should do the trick. Whatever you go with make sure it has a beefy power supply. I have 3 1TB drives like yours. I've fried 2 USB 3.0 hubs by not paying attention to the power ratings.

Hey I just wanted to pass along this video. It shows the power draw of a raspberry pi with a connected usb wifi dongle. I've noticed people saying it won't work with 500 mA, this shows it working on far less.

Also I read somewhere, I'll site it when I find it again, that the 700 mA is only if you have usb devices plugged in, which shouldn't be a problem if you're using a powered usb hub.

i just ordered a Plugable 7 port usb 2.0 hub. I'll let you know how it works, I should be getting it tomorrow.

I’m a bit late, but if you don’t mind 2.0 USB support (I remember reading that the RPI doesn’t benefit from 3.0), this is the hub that works wonders with powering the RPI too. I use this for the RPI and 2 HDDs for my seafile server.

Plugable USB 2.0 7-Port High Speed Hub with 15W Power Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Z4G3I6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pIQZBb0AP8F4D

I haven't used this with a pi zero, but this hub is able to power both the pi and some accessories on it's own so you still only need one power cord:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Z4G3I6/

I won't need this, however. I have decided I will use [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Port-Speed-Power-Adapter/dp/B003Z4G3I6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1375633364&sr=8-2&keywords=powered+usb+hub) to power the pi and its peripherals off of one plug or battery. Now then, how might I power the screen?

I would recommend the Pluggable USB hub, not only does it work, but the company seems to do a good job at making sure their customers are happy.

You may be able to find one for cheaper, but I think choosing a higher quality hub is important.

I had asked essentially this same question a while back - you might want to see that thread:

http://www.reddit.com/r/raspberry_pi/comments/1gvhh3/can_a_raspberry_pi_be_powered_from_a_usb_hub_and/

Or, just see this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pDA7MxFtoS0

EDIT: I believe the USB hub mentioned in that video is this one. $20 for a hub that can provide power to the Pi and act as a powered USB hub for the Pi doesn't seem like too bad a deal.

I use a usb hub to power mine and all its peripherals.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Z4G3I6/ is pretty good, been running the pi stable for weeks on it.

Hmm. I'm also seeing a lot of people say that USB 3.0 hubs and Mac OS X have problems, and quite frankly all the USB 3.0 hubs I've tried have had issues.

What do you think of this one: Satechi Hub?

> If you expand too much you will end up being disappointed in the reliance on USB of any of the single board computers.

I built my server around a Raspberry PI and currently have four 4+ TB drives hooked up via a powered USB hub. I've had as many as six drives hooked up, but I consolidated my drive-mapping and storage sizes a bit ago.

(Note: If you buy through the Amazon Smile link I posted for the USB hub, proceeds go to benefit the Electronic Frontier Foundation, a very worthy cause!)

Well, I'm kind of a hard drive junkie. I have 6 internals, and no more will fit in my case, so I started tacking on externals whenever I could afford it. I do a lot of digital video work, and also have far too many games and HD movies, anime, backup, you name it, and though I'd love to trade my smaller drives for one big one, hard drive prices are somewhat prohibitive to me at the moment.

Those tubes look pretty boss, and could be just what I need. I've been considering hubs as well, and found this one that looks awesome. I should probably turn my case so the cables aren't so visible, but I like to look through the window, and my desk (a fold up table, haha) has supports that block me from pushing the case to the side. Also, I'm using a Wacom Intuos3 6x11 tablet as a mousepad. Thanks for the tips!

Limited by 2A for the whole hub

> i find the best solution to my computing setup is just using laptops

I do use a laptop, but I still need to use a lot of stuff attached on a daily basis: UPS, printer, scanner, headset, webcam, mouse, keyboard, external drive, card reader, cable for my phone, FitBit dongle. (I have this model of USB hub, but it sounds like you don't need it! :) )

> What do you use your dashcam for; sorry if it seams obvious.

A friend had a car accident and it got me thinking about how it's their word against yours unless you have witnesses or the evidence is clear. They're also growing in popularity as a result of videos like this... so I picked up a cheap low-definition one to give it a try. If you want to find out more, you might find this guide informative.

Here it is on Amazon
The price is the same, but it's free shipping if you have Prime.

[I know it's not star wars, but here's a pretty sweet USB expander] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051PGX2I/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=thisistuesday-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B0051PGX2I)

I have had the exact same problem as you with both the Inateck and a different OTG adapter. Neither of them provided rear power after the BleemSync 1.1 update.

I ended up buying one of these USB splitters so I can plug the two PSC controllers into USB 1 and the flash drive with BleemSync into USB 2: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HKIDF2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eQbwDb3H28W45

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-2-Port-Compact-Splitter-Windows/dp/B005HKIDF2/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1541694701&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=usb+a+hub+two+ports&dpPl=1&dpID=41h0iHlbJtL&ref=plSrch

Not an optimal solution, but you could attach this to one of those right angle plugs

This one works great for me: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plugable-2-Port-Compact-Splitter-Windows/dp/B005HKIDF2

From a quick search, it's looking like jvc makes the only worthwhile dual usb HU's. What about getting one with a rear input then adding a little usb hub to it? Something like this http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-USB-2-0-Port-Hub/dp/B005HKIDF2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1342033185&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+hub+2+port

I use a HP 3 button optical mouse like this one here. I us it together with a wheel mouse attached to a 2 port mini usb hub like this one here. I get wheel button fatigue from clicking in 3d apps all day.

This is the one I use at home and I use this one on the go.

I could see this being handy and this being the fun item. I'm a little biased though, I love mad libs hahaa.

College Bound

A USB hub would be perfect! I know that I kept running out of ports on my computer when working on projects. Plus you can plug in a USB lava lamp or controller as well. The possibilities are endless! Would you like a falafel with that??

Make me smile, Rasta!

ok make my computer smile =P

http://www.amazon.com/Generic-7-Port-USB-Hub-Port/dp/B007S642BW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1406586895&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+hub

I've been using this, but I don't recommend it since it loses power sometimes if I'm using too many devices (so what's the point of having all those ports).

I'm planning on getting

http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Port-12-5W-Power-Adapter/dp/B00483WRZ6/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1406586988&sr=8-7&keywords=usb+hub+powered

or something similar to that.

Something like this?

I just bought a new computer and will be transferring a kazillion files back and forth between three computers and a couple external hard drives. this would definitely bring a smile to my face and make my life soooo easy! :P
Quite Interesting

If you play Rock Bank, you should have one of these anyway.

This is pretty handy for any computer

Scurvy

Oh Hi Mark...I think fun activities depends on where you live and who you are. Personally, I think the midnight picnics where you make up a whole picnic and go someplace unusual can be fun. It's warm here, so that's possible.

Get in the car and wander out of town? Use google maps to find really weird stuff. One time Carlsbad, CA, we typed in "Best Waffles near me" and ended up in this little dive that REALLY had the best waffles in Carlsbad!

Hubs are Useful!

Is there any disadvantage or negative affects to having a USB splitter plugged into a usb port on your pc. In terms of power or that specific USB will it ruin it or wear it out etc? something like this(Below)?

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483577849&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+splitter

I just got my PlayStation classic last week so I'm new but catch on fast. Thank you again. This is the hub I'm using. Sabrent 4-Port USB 2.0 Hub with Individual Power Switches and LEDs (HB-UMLS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_Mw2iDb3PAE14R

Few more questions if you don't mind answering: Do I need two of these cables to connect my monitors to the interface?

And should I run my Axiom controller through the interface or just via USB?

And is it safe to connect the interface via a USB hub like this?

The cheapest and most generic one on Amazon at the time, here it is http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M Works great!

USB hubs plug into a USB port and give you say four new ports to plug into. Sort of a splitter. Using a 2.0 hub downgrades the connection so if you are having a weird conflict oy wpm't be the same sort of thing.

Having said that, it should work. The ATR has a lifetime limited warranty. Email their support and see what they say.

Here is an example USB hub.

http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/

!

Try these. I'm about to upgrade to dual monitors.

USB to VGA adapter

powered USB hub

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=usb+hub&qid=1566270401&s=gateway&sr=8-5

Sabrent 4-Port USB 2.0 Hub with Individual Power Switches and LEDs (HB-UMLS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cIgExb45ZDCS3

Lol forgot the link

Yea, I just have a cheap Sabrent one that serves my purpose well enough since the vast majority of my USB ports are only USB2. If I buy another one down the line I'd probably invest a few more bucks for the Anker one so I don't have to worry about accidentally turning off the switch by bumping it.

constant unplugging and replugging the phones is very annoying. That's where this USB hub comes in handy.

You can just turn on the port for whichever phone needs to charge without ever needing to unplug the wires.

If you are a Canon shooter, for tethering i strongly recommend Kuuvik Capture.

Not sure if it can handle multiple cameras, but i have used it and Lightroom both to capture multiple angles, using a usb hub that could switch each USB on and off. I used [this](Sabrent 4-Port USB 2.0 Hub with... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BWF5U0M?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share) one.

You can't turn off the wheel so the easiest solution might be using a USB hub with switches. Then you can just press the button to turn off the usb port and the wheel. Like this https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M

USB hub with switches for each port. (http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1414497612&sr=1-1&keywords=usb+hub)

I have a backlit keyboard, and a usb fan on my desk, I use this to turn them on or off.

Try a USB2 hub.

I use something like this when I'm gaming. Super useful.

This is the one,
ww.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419616564&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+hub+switch

Actually, I just thought of something. You could give this a try if you want a physical button.

You would just have to turn off one of the USBs then turn the other one on.
Alternatively, you maybe able to get away without it by setting the default audio device to the TEAC headphone amp and then turning the amp off when you want to use the speakers. this way when you turn off the teac, it will default back to the speakers, but when you turn on the teac it'll recognize the headphone amp as the primary audio device.

This is all assuming you are using a windows computer. I'm not quite sure how the mac audio drivers work.

The reason I needed to use a usb dongle is because I am buying an air remote mouse(https://www.amazon.com/Aerb-Wireless-Keyboard-Multifunctional-3-Gsensor/dp/B00K768DHY/) and it has its own bluetooth dongle to work.

That is nice, I am also planning to do the same because I have Buffalo Snes USB controller. I am planning to install retroarch in it :)
So will a USB hub like this suffice?(https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/)

And also I have one last question. Is it normal to lag on 60fps videos on Youtube? I thought this box is strong enough to handle 4k 60 fps o.o

I use this Hub:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=pd_lpo_147_lp_t_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0XZMS084V62M2T68359E

And the keyboard i use is the AKAI MPKmini:
https://www.amazon.com/Akai-Professional-MPK-Mini-Controller/dp/B00IJ6QAO2/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1480882934&sr=1-1&keywords=akai+mpk+mini

Both work great for me.

Simple solution to this problem.

I have a Sony Wireless speaker system that has a transmitter that connects up to the PC thru USB. When I switched to Windows 10, I was bummed to find out that Sony's latest driver for the AirPC10T is Windows7. Although it works on Windows 10, just like the old joystick drivers, my PC won't sleep. THE SIMPLE SOLUTION I WENT WITH: I bought a Sabrent 4-Port Hub that has push buttons to turn on/off any individual port. For $7, it is hard to beat this solution: I now simply toggle off my USB transmitter port when I go to put the PC to sleep. Sure, I'd rather have Sony write a new driver, but their customer support made it clear they aren't going to do that. Here is the hub with toggles that I bought last month, and has been working great so far. http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00BWF5U0M - Decent reviews but I'm not entirely set on it.

Still think this is the best USB port out there for the price. Having a light switch is so convenient.

With those you are limited to remapping in mame/pi menu. But even with an ipac 2/4 you would still have to set the buttons up. I think your biggest concern is "what happens if i map encoder 1, and it's later recognized as encoder 2?" It would be. .. a pain in some situations to unplug and replug. My workaround was one of these :

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=pd_sbs_147_t_0/136-1115726-2818104?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00BWF5U0M&pd_rd_r=309ad5d9-8905-4f67-b539-bade9fc09f1a&pd_rd_w=X25Yb&pd_rd_wg=0qo89&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=8TXAKTGX7N5Q7G9Z882P&psc=1&refRID=8TXAKTGX7N5Q7G9Z882P

In the very rare event during powerup my usb's get disorganized, i simply hit the four buttons off, and power on in sequence. Its happened twice in a year, but the lack of headache was worth 6 bucks (less probably through monoprice).

I found this and this

Are these good choices?

I suggest this and this

I bought the hub and it works great. First one I bought didn't.

http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1427400654&sr=1-1

Get a USB hub like this one. Since you are on an A+, a powered USB hub may be a better option, but either will work.

Cool! Thanks for the help.

One last question. Would this hub work well with Bitcoin miners?
Sabrent 4-Port USB 2.0 Hub with Individual Power Switches and LEDs (HB-UMLS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_ECG.ub12MSXEF

The fans appear to be the same size, I really didn't look closely. The fan you found definitely looks easier to mount onto the back of a cabinet the only issue i see is the way you power the fan is usb. If you have a free usb port on each system/available in each cabinet then that could work. If you want to rig up something using one of the usb hubs I linked below with a few usb extension cords that can work. Another option is to buy a surge protector or outlet plug in that comes with a usb port to plug in your fan.

Edit: forgot the link..... http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BWF5U0M/ref=s9_simh_gw_p147_d0_i4?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=1JH8R13VJQ9BM6NJZ0TQ&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=1688200382&pf_rd_i=507846

Note all keyboard mouse combos use Esc for back. Need to use enter to select at main menu but sub menus the mouse select works

Mele f10
have to flip over for Esc/back button. Works good pretty accurate. Cue and rewind work in circle select area. Have to flip over and hit space bar to play/pause
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0092KDSQW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1407764634&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

Logitech K400. keyboard/touch pad my favorite but big. Home button works as home. Play/pause, cue and rewind keys work
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005DKZTMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1407764657&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40

T2 Air Mouse - DO NOT BUY, performs terribly.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DIXSPA8/ref=mp_s_a_1_18?qid=1407765051&sr=8-18&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

Sabrent USB hub, works perfectly but bright LEDs
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BWF5U0M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1407766089&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

Logitech N5902, exceedingly akward IMHO. Worked great with HTPC but not good with FireTV. BTW do not buy at amazon if you think you may want one it is too expensive. If more than $30 you are paying too much. Once again not good for FireTV but good for HTPC.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005OTXLLC?pc_redir=1407493041&robot_redir=1

I just ordered this hub. Hopefully it'll work out alright

Just tested this with my new Poker II

iPad Air

Poker II

Sabrent 4-Port USB 2.0 Hub with Individual Power Switches and LED Only $7

This thing is great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BWF5U0M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You would need to buy a 5V adapter for it though.

Here

which ones? Used these and this for my blue monitor ones but the consoles have color change strips from Ikea (this one).

It is this one, and it still works! https://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Portable-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network/dp/B00E7W1UFQ

I use a Surface Pro original for programming with Visual Studio 2013 Pro and it's great. It can drive up to 3 external displays with the correct setup. The 128 GB version is fine, I have Office 2013 and VS2013 installed plus a heap of developer utils (git, tortoisegit, beyond compare, etc...).

You can easily get one external monitor with the built-in displaylink and this mini-displaylink to HDMI/DVI/VGA adapter. I also recommend this little USB 3.0 hub + ethernet adapter. Both of those products together with the Surface Pro make for a nice portable workstation (sans external display).

To run 2 external displays, you need to get this Plugable UD-3900 which adds 4 USB 3.0 ports, ethernet, HDMI and DVI. I have one - it works great for office stuff (haven't tried any video games with it except SNES emulators which work great too.)

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E7W1UFQ/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3SLGHDGVIEQCT&coliid=I2K7FI0SESJ8GY&psc=1

Pretty much the same as everyone has linked, a little pricier. It has more reviews though.

Does the laptop have USB 3.0? https://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Portable-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network/dp/B00E7W1UFQ

Another Option. 10/100/1000Mbps Ethernet and 3 USB 3.0 ports. I've been using this on my Lenovo Yoga for about a year and have just started using it on my SP3. So far so good.

ATTENTION: Confirmed working for ASUS g751jy. See below how I got mine to work

You must buy:
Macally 4K Aluminum Mini DisplayPort (Thunderbolt) to HDMI
https://www.amazon.com/Macally-Aluminum-DisplayPort-Thunderbolt-MDHDMI4K/dp/B013H07SX6?ie=UTF8&keywords=macally%20mini%20displayport&qid=1464385791&ref_=sr_1_2&sr=8-2

Use the adapter instead of the HDMI port on your laptop. It will be a black screen if you try to use the laptops HDMI out.

ADDITIONALLY if you purchase a USB 3.0 external hub WITH an external power supply this will provide better power through the USB hub and improve performance.

This is the one I bought:
https://www.amazon.ca/Charging-Suppport-Performance-Personal-Business/dp/B00FR795WA?ie=UTF8&ref_=pe_1229820_124470850

Personal Experience and Games
I have been playing Lucky's Tale, Eve Valkyrie, The Witness and using Virtual Desktop. all working 100% fine, Do not listen to people telling you this laptop will not work, or only able to play VR Video content. It is a very capable VR gaming laptop.

Post any questions if you have any!

I'm using the HooToo powered hub.

I don't have issues when I plug the keyboard straight into my MBP. I figure that this is because it isn't "sharing" data/power with other devices. This is, I think, also why my Duet doesn't work unless I plug it into it's own dedicated USB - not enough power from the hub. And again, even then it drops out incessantly. I had that classic issue where the MIDI will drop out when I play too many notes, which a cursory Google search tells me is due to a bottleneck of some sort.

Connected to my hub are: Maschine mk2, Apple keyboard, portable hard drive, and M-Audio Keystation. The usb hub's power supply is feeding everything.

I bought one of the sub $5 cables from Amazon and use it in conjunction with this USB 3.0 Hub. I've charged both the 3dsXL and PSvita simultaneously using the 1A and 2A charge ports.

I like this one.

Neat app recommendation! I finally find out what my USB 3.0 hub is pushing out. While I was using it, I think I was actually losing battery life while plugged in and using the device.

One question I do have, does using a USB extension cable affect the efficiency of the charger? I have no clue if all USB cables are created equally and for all purposes, I would think so, but I'm pretty dumb.

I've dealt with the same issue! In addition to the Kinect, I have an external HDD, two jump drives, and a wireless keyboard plugged into my console. This was never possible until bought a decent hub. Here's the one I bought:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FR795WA/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I like this because it's powered with its own power cable, has very good reviews, and it has two extra ports that are solely for powering devices (without transferring data to/from the console). This hub has been amazing!

Thanks for the recommendation, though, I found something a bit cheaper from EVGA (which I've always had good experiences with) http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Compliant-Multi-Stream-Displayport-200-DP-1301-L1/dp/B00HK8V5KE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411526460&sr=8-1&keywords=EVGA+1.2a+Compliant+Multi-Stream+Displayport+200-DP-1301-L1

assuming you meant this one: http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Compliant-Multi-Stream-Displayport-200-DP-1301-L1/dp/B00HK8V5KE

there are two reviews the state the SP2 do not work with this device. No feedback on if the SP3 works.

Did this ever take off? There should be at least a few displayport hubs like this one that allows you to split a single output. There are also usb-c to dual displayport adapters out there, although I'm curious if any of these can still carry USB. If not, you could still get something that takes a thunderbolt input and has at least one displayport 1.2 and one USB 3.0 output and then use the splitter.

at that price you might as well try your luck with a mst hub like the one from EVGA

I'm talking about a device like This

You can do it with an MST hub like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HK8V5KE

Just use a miniDP to DP cable from the docking station to the hub. I've had the best success with Cable Matters cables: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00APLJ58M

A DisplayPort MST Hub is not the same thing as a splitter.

>DisplayPort 1.2 added support for Multi-Stream Transport (MST), enabling multiple monitors to be used via a single DisplayPort connector. This function requires either monitors that are capable of DisplayPort 1.2 daisy-chaining, or use of a DisplayPort MST Hub.

I use https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Gigabit-Ethernet-Converter-Network/dp/B00IJU0K2Q/ and its great for travel and when im in the office.

Bluetooth Mouse and Keyboard help as well if you feel the the need.

@techiedealz:
>2016-03-23 16:31:23 UTC

>[2-in-1] Inateck 3 Ports USB 3.0 Hub and RJ45 10/100/1000 with code D5FONZMV amazon.com #deals pic.twitter.com

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[^[Mistake?]](/message/compose/?to=TweetPoster&subject=Error%20Report&message=/4bna6y%0A%0APlease leave above link unaltered.)
^[Suggestion]
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This is what I bought, $19.99 on Amazon:

[2-in-1] Inateck 3 Ports USB 3.0 Hub and RJ45 10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet Hub Converter LAN Wired Network Adapter with a Built-in 1ft USB 3.0 Cable

I use the MDP on the Surface for the video out. I actually did buy the MS dock, but it would not work properly. Here's a link for the Inateck on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IJU0K2Q?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01

Not sure about your network issues, but I will say this.
I use a USB Gigabit Ethernet Hub Converter and stream live HD Channels, Kodi, Netflix and HBOGo in 1080P with no stutter. I also attach my external hdd to view my local movies as well. In addition, I also rooted and installed a custom rom, specifically Pure Nexus 6.0.1 which allows me to sideload apps, have a custom dashboard, a secondary launcher and cool remote apps like Droidmote Server so I can use my phone as a remote and a gamepad. Also, the Pure Nexus Rom supports audio control which the stock rom does not. I have 4 NP's and all are running exceptionally well. Sorry to hear you're having problems but I'd say give it a chance and do some tinkering. This is a great little unit.

Nvm i may have found the answer

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Ethernet-Adapter-Nintendo-Chromebook/dp/B00LLUEJXW/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=usb+and+ethernet+hub+for+switch&qid=1566599534&s=gateway&sr=8-5

It's only a minor inconvenience. If you don't use the onboard USB port for anything else then you can use this adapter. If you need your USB port and ethernet then use this adapter. Or this one or this one if you want faster networking (not true gigabit but about 350 Mbps vs 100 Mbps).

Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Ethernet-Adapter-Nintendo-Chromebook/dp/B00LLUEJXW

Not all adapters work.

Using this currently: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Ethernet-100Mbps-Network-Chromebook/dp/B00LLUEJXW/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

I use these two. It gives you 3 USB ports and an Ethernet port. Works great.

Note: After you plug in the hub, you will need to reboot for it to work. Also the GPI controller will not work till you unplug the hub and reboot, but you can just plug a keyboard into the hub.

USB Hub with Ethernet - UGREEN RJ45 Ethernet Adapter with USB 2.0 Hub & Micro USB 2.0 OTG Cable

• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N9S9Z0G/
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LLUEJXW/

https://laptoping.com/specs/product/rca-cambio-w101-v2-10-1-2-in-1-tablet-32gb-intel-atom-quad-core-windows-10/

I run it on this tablet right here.

Only problem I had was the 2.4ghz wifi wasn't strong enough for anything more then 10mbs bitrate, i use a USB2.0 to Ethernet hub that also has 3 usb ports.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LLUEJXW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This here works perfectly on my TV

The $69 Mi Box at Walmart - https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mi-Box-Android-TV/54827138 . Also grab a $13 compatible Ethernet adapter - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LLUEJXW .

I'm an MSc Biology student doing pharmaceutical bioprospecting (lots of chemistry, toxicology, pharmacology, molecular bio, and microbio). I have an SP3 and I LOVE it. It is hands down my favourite piece of tech that I have ever bought. It makes my life as a grad student 100x easier. Also, mine is an SP3 i7, 8gb RAM, 256 gb SSD HD (with a 128gb SD card to expand my memory).

First off, I put an STM DUX Rugged Fit SP3 case on my SP3. It makes me much more comfortable about carrying it with me all the time. It doesn't affect the fuctionality of the kickstand, keyboard, cameras, or buttons, and has cooling vents. Hands down best one I found.

I also bought a miniDisplayPort to DVI/HDMI/VGA adapter so I can plug my SP3 into any projector or screen. Very handy.
I also bought an Anker 3-Port USB Hub w/ Gigabit Ethernet Port so that I can use Ethernet cables if need-be, and also gives me 3 USB ports to use instead of one.

Now for software! As expected, I also run the typical Microsoft Office Suite (Office 365 University).


I use Microsoft OneNote for most of my dry lab notes and for roughing out protocols/experimental designs. Its amazing for having a lot of different data together in one place. I can intermix pictures/figures of my results (such as TLC plates, mass spec readings from LC-MS, cell viability assays from TC culture, flow cytometry graphs from expression analysis, etc etc) with hand-written or typed notes. It's great for planning out experiments and designing protocols too, as I can just screen grab and insert diagrams of 96 well plates, assay layouts, etc. It makes things much faster than writing it all out. I then just print out my protocols and keep them in a binder in the wet lab. I then reference those protocols in my wet lab hand-written book. I bring my SP3 into the wet lab on occasion, but not too often as I have to decontaminate it and I'm not a fan of getting it covered in ethanol.

The screen grab feature (double clicking the top of the pen, then selecting the area you want to "grab") is incredibly handy for quickly grabbing and inserting a figure or something from a publication into your notes. It's very well implemented.

For PDF reading, annotation, and analysis I use Drawboard PDF. You have to pay for it ($12 CAD I think it was?) but it's unbelievable. The user interface is amazing with the pen and touch input. I used to print out papers to read them but now I just read, highlight, and annotate them in Drawboard. Awesome program. You can also create PDF's in it which is nice. All in all it's a very full-featured program and worth the money.

I also run GraphPad Prism 6 with no issues whatsoever. The SP3 can handle it without breaking a sweat.

I run R Statistical Analysis and R Studio for my stats, again handles it no problem.

I also run WinMDI and FlowingSoftware (flow cytometry data analysis) and it runs those without even having the fan come on.

I have Zotero and EndNote X7, both of them run great and work very very well with all of the microsoft suite of programs.

Edit: I've also used BioEdit and MEGA6 for a bit of sequence editing, aligning, and BLASTing. Nothing too intense though. The only drawback is that doing sequence work on a small screen can get tedious. A nice 20"+ monitor is way easier.

I use it for teaching a lot too, as I can walk students through problems in either OneNote or Plumbago, then save my rough work and email it to them, post it to D2L, etc etc.

For a more performance-oriented comparison, I'll point out that I also heavily run Adobe Photoshop CS6, Adobe Lightroom 5, and Sony Vegas Pro 13 for my photography and video hobbies. It can run these programs flawlessly too. My other computer is a Dell Precision w/ Intel i7 vPro and my SP3 does very well in comparison to that beast. Obviously if you're doing something very intense for 4 hours the fan will be on and it'll get warm, but it has handled everything I've thrown at it so far.

Also, the battery life is pretty good. I can't complain. In an average day of in-lab work, attending seminars, and teaching with it, I can get 6-7 hours of battery life out of it. If I'm not multi-tasking as much I can get more than that, and if I'm working it really hard with high brightness I get 5ish hours. All in all pretty impressive for such a powerful little device though. It also charges pretty fast.

Edit: spelling.

[Is it this one?](http://www.amazon.com/Anker-Unibody-Aluminum-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00PC07T02/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1458123879&sr=8-10&keywords=anker+usb+hub
) As far as I can tell it's just the exact same product as the one I've just had to send back, with a different name slapped on it. The one I've been using may be a Chinese ripoff using the same mould or something, though.

Hate to say it, but I think that article you linked has it right. (I saw another thread on this subreddit referencing a similar issue, but couldn't find it again.)

The article I mention noted that any device which uses a dongle relies on radio frequency (RF) communication, not Bluetooth, so the USB version of the port the dongle is plugged into is more or less irrelevant. The issue causing the choppy performance has to do with the USB hub being improperly shielded - it is the EM interference that is causing the chop.

I have experienced the same thing myself with my Anker hub and my Logitech unifying wireless keyboard/mouse combo. I simply had to stop using it with my surface, and instead picked up a USB switch which allows me to use my wired keyboard/mouse on my desktop and Surface as needed. Somewhat inelegant, but effective.

This is the one that worked for me. A different anker one that was black with a proprietary hookup to the hub did not work. Is this the one you have?This is for a regular usb port.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Portable-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00PC07T02/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1537731574&sr=1-4&keywords=anker+usb+hub+with+ethernet

Anker Unibody Aluminum 3-Port USB 3.0 and Gigabit Ethernet Hub with 1.3ft / 40cm USB 3.0 Cable [Ethernet Port RTL8153 Chipset + USB Ports VL812 Chipset] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PC07T02/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GjhODbJXDTD2B

Don't mean to be rude but gotta check: Make sure you're plugging it into the correct Ethernet port on your Google Wifi, you can only use one of them for internet IN. Also, can you try a different ethernet cable?

Not a Cox customer but just throwing out idea, if they have any type of like landing page that pops up with terms to accept or anything similar, you'll need to plug in a computer to your puck's ethernet and accept those before setting up the modem.

You might look into buying a cheap USB to Ethernet dongle or dock, just to have around for situations like this or for when travelling.

That said, I'm pretty sure Cox is just a standard cable provider right? Like Xfinity?

If they don't have the said splash page you have to agree to before use, then maybe you aren't supposed to be using the puck's default DHCP setting? Or something similar?

Again, picking up one of these will help you narrow down the issue because you can try just seeing if your Surface can get internet directly from the modem (make sure to always unplug the modem from power before switching devices) and you can also see if there is a ToS you have to agree to or something.

• An adapter from Anker, a recommended brand
  
• The step up version, just better aesthetics for your Surface
  
• The cheapest option
  
• One that does more than just Ethernet if you want more bang for your buck. Maybe you want more USB ports on your Surface sometimes?
  
  Anyways, report back with:
  
  

1. Does connecting your Surface directly to your modem work?
   
2. Does connecting your Surface through the Wifi puck work before you set up the Wi-Fi?

That information is false.

Like I said, I figured it all out already (above your post)

I've talked to someone with the same model Surface Book 2 as me and they're able to achieve 144hz with a single monitor using a DisplayPort to USB-C cable.

Going off of that, I've based my setup as such:

1. Monitor
   
   https://pixiogaming.com/products/new-px277
   
   
2. Cable
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075V27G2R/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
3. Extra Ports
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PC07T02/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   This setup will allow me to do 1440p @ 144Hz, Gigabit Ethernet, hookup for my Wireless Gaming Mouse and Mechanical Keyboard, and charging (through the surface port)

UCEC 5.25 Inch Front Panel USB Hub - With 2x USB 3.0 Ports & 2x USB 2.0 Ports & 1x HD AUDIO port https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UBFXMXG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YKWCyb39MAV8Y

Front USB Port - SODIAL(R) PC Computer Case Front Panel USB Audio Port Mic Earphone Cable Line https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GNKSLOW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jLWCyb9FFHCR1

Get a 5.25" drive bay USB header

https://www.amazon.com/UCEC-5-25-Inch-Front-Panel/dp/B00UBFXMXG/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=5.25+usb+3.0+front+panel&qid=1567638434&s=gateway&sprefix=5.25+usb+&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyVElHUUJKOVIyQzE5JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUExMDA3NDIzMUNTUTRMWE1QQjNGTyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMTI5ODAyMk1ITkFLN1ZFUDYwTiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

Depending on the case, some higher-end manufacturers sell replacement front panel I/O panels (I know Corsair does at least), worth checking on the manufacturer's website.

Otherwise, you can't replace the original ports with any old front panel from Amazon. You can buy front panel connectors for 3.5" and 5.25" drive bays if you have either of those bays.

Would one of these work as well?


https://www.amazon.com/UCEC-5-25-Inch-Front-Panel/dp/B00UBFXMXG/ref=sr_1_1?camp=drmg&keywords=pc+front+panel+dashboard&qid=1575047586&sr=8-1

This can be replaced with something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UBFXMXG/ref=psdcmw_281413_t1_B01C1KW5L8

So... something like this then?

Closest I could find.
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Ethernet-Including-ChromeBook-Aluminum/dp/B00XU6PM68/

> First off, I have a new macbook pro which completely did away with the standard usb ports so Im forced to buy an adapter for my RODE NT which is the USB-C to USB

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Ethernet-Adapter-ChromeBook/dp/B00XU6PM68

>I've been changing up my sound to a more emo-ish rap sound kinda like Peep, Tracy, etc..and produced a solid beat and its hard for those to give out help when they cant physically see my work but what do you guys normally do when you produce?

network online. try /r/makinghiphop

>I also thirdly am curious for vocals i have a hard time with it especially getting a flow, I overthink I feel like, but aside from that when I start mixing my vocals i feel like I have a really high pitched voice and I already do irl, but it feels raw and I want to make it deeper and thicker.

you could try a tuning plugin, you could lower the formant (it'll be a setting in the plugin called Formant probably) or just pitch it down directly. if you want it to be thicker, record it twice, as similarly as you can, and have them both play at the same time. (or use VocAlign to make them super tight but I assume you don't have Vocalign with a USB mic)

My EDC for the Switch is as follows:

• Switch console with JoyCons attached
  
  
• Hori Tough Pouch holding the Switch, two straps and five carts (plus one in the console).
  
  
• Hori Play Stand
  
  
• Second set of JoyCons in a grip.
  
  
• Second pair of straps
  
  
• Pro Controller
  
  
• Two Google Pixel USB C-C chargers (my phone is also USB C)
  
  
• One Nintendo A-C cable (comes with the Pro Controller)
  
  
• u-Jays on-ear headphones
  
  
• a-Jays Five in-ear headphones (had these first)
  
  
• Butterfox Carry All case
  
  --
  
  As covered above I start by packing the Switch, with JoyCons on into the Hori Tough Pouch which was my original carry case. The Tough Pouch also has a spot for five carts and two straps matching the JoyCons attached to the Switch. The Butterfox Carry All gets quite tightly packed so the added protection is nice and doesn't add much to the thickness.
  
  I then put the Hori Play Stand into the back pocket of the Carry All. As the back pocket is very strechy this adds a little extra protection on that side.
  
  On the inside of the case the A-C cable goes into the inside back pocket. Next up moving from back to front are the u-Jays which fold flat in their dust cover bag. The is followed by the Tough Pouch. All that is behind the wide movable divider from the Carry All. On the front side of the divider the space is split in half by the short divider from the Carry All. Looking towards the front of the bag the JoyCon grip goes on the left, Pro Controller on the right, both with buttons facing forward and shoulder buttons to the outside.
  
  Inside the flap of the Carry All are two zipper pockets. In the smaller pocket goes one of the Pixel chargers and the two remaining straps. In the larger pocket the a-Jays Five in their protective case (looks like a small hockey puck) and the second Pixel Charger.
  
  The left and right inside walls of the Carry All have three game cart slots each however I find the version I got makes them, in my view, unusable. Of the three the front and back both come very close to overlapping with the zipper while the middle has reasonable clearance however lacks the depth to really hold a cart as securely as the Tough Pouch. If you wanted you could use them but I haven't needed to yet.
  
  Honourable mention to my ORLZY tempered glass screen protector which is permanently on my Switch and doesn't really warrant its own packing requirements.
  
  That said I have to wonder if the Anker USB C to 3-port USB HUB with Ethernet would work with the Switch. Yes, Ethernet in tabletop mode. The USB hub could also allow wired controllers like the Pro via cable or Pokken controller.
  
  I also have a couple different designs of the PowerA game cases pre-ordered as my upcoming game pre-orders will mean I need more travel/storage space for carts. Not sure where exactly it will fit into the Carry All yet.
  
  In the medium term I also plan to get a battery bank such as RAVPower 26800 PD but haven't settled on a specific one just yet although that one currently tops my watch list.

You could get something like this. I have no idea about the quality, it's the first thing that popped up when I searched USB-C to USB 3 adapter. The USB C adapter Apple makes is only USB 2, so your only option is third party.

USB-c to usb3 adaptor hub. The charge port is also a USB. Plug this in and your gold. https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Ethernet-Including-ChromeBook-Aluminum/dp/B00XU6PM68

Working great. I have the 50ft version of this cable here running through my wall into an outlet. For my usb cable I'm using this with the existing ethernet run through my wall into the same outlet.

It's not cheap to go this route but my setup is perfect. I've got Vive space of about 3.8 x 3.0 behind my couches and TV in my living room. I can't wait for some local multiplayer experiences (like Ruckus Ridge) for when I have people over.

EDIT: I know it'll seem like a "no duh" statement, but that active HDMI cable is uni-directional. The first day I had the Vive I didn't realize I had the cable reversed. Having to go back into the attic for a stupid mistake isn't fun.

I don't know about him, but to extend my Vive by 30 feet to my front room I purchased this active HDMI cable and this Ethernet 4-Port USB Extender. I think the USB extender is more useful than an active USB cable as you have 4 different ports to add things like keyboards, mice, or racing wheels, and you also have the option to extend it further in the future just by buying another Ethernet cable.

I got you bro.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000067S12/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E5M39AW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-4-Port-Extender-Ethernet-GUCE64/dp/B013VP3372

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8TC4E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The only caviate I have is with the usb extender. I couldn't use the front camera on the headset when it was routed through the usb to ethernet extender. This may be a limitation of the one I chose. Otherwise, everything works perfectly.

Like this?

Wireless USB hub they are a thing but seems like a hard to find item

Give this one a look. IOGEAR USB 4-Port USB Extender over Ethernet 164’, GUCE64 (TAA compliant) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013VP3372/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_50iSCbC8CPVTJ

Usb extenders are a part of my job. All of them are annoying, and an affordable consumer USB 3.0 exteder isn't yet available. My least favorite are the KVM extenders with built in USB hubs. Most of them use some proprietary signaling between the two boxes, others you can hook up to your home lan and they use tcp/ip.

Wanted to check back in and report how this setup works.

So I went with the route of HDMI for now, using this cable and this USB extender over cat5e.

Everything works wonderfully, haven't tried camera yet, but latency is unnoticeable for first tests, and I am incredibly happy.

I'll be ordering some bulk cat6 to try HDMI extender boxes with, and I'll report my findings later on.

I appreciate the help, again, this might work well.

I haven't tried that yet, so I'll give that a go. The HMD & monitor are plugged into the same video card. I'm also using a USB extender for the USB cable, but the camera seems to work so I don't think that's it.

If you end up needing to extend keyboard / mouse, this works great for it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013VP3372/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have a usb extender i bought on amazon that works perfectly.

My setup goes PC -> ethernet extender box 1 -> ethernet extender box 2 -> link box.

Never had any issues getting it to work. Additionally, I run a TPcast, and a Steam Link. All of this pipes into my living room. It's a really fun setup, actually. The Vive is wireless and plays via the steam link on my TV. Great for parties.

Thanks! Are these usb to Ethernet really reliable? What do you think about this one? I need extra USB ports

Anker 3-Port USB 3.0 HUB with 10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet Converter (3 USB 3.0 Ports, A RJ45 Gigabit Ethernet Port, Support Windows XP, Vista, Win7/8 (32/64 bit), Mac OS 10.6 and above, Linux) Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014ZOJX7W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_frUJybE2CJRR1

Buy this - Has an extra 3 USB ports, too. Just note the Surface doesn't have a ton of USB port juice so don't go crazy...

https://smile.amazon.com/Anker-Portable-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network/dp/B014ZOJX7W/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1494737825&sr=8-5&keywords=usb+ethernet+adapter+anker

Would you happen to know anything about USB ethernet issues?

I have an Anker 3-port USB/Ethernet adapter that worked great before.. it's USB 3.0, shows as USB 3 under System Information, and I can plug devices into the hub and they work no problem

But as far as getting internet.. the OS says "cable not connected" even though there are link lights on

Any ideas off-hand?

edit: it's a Realtek chipset

double edit: 8153, not supported by Mieze's driver. This is the one right here https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Portable-Ethernet-Network-Notebooks/dp/B014ZOJX7W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1550630432&sr=8-3&keywords=anker+usb+3+hub+ethernet no idea why it wouldn't work straight outta the box

triple edit: It works out of the box on my MBP running Mojave. Which btw, I don't think I mentioned... I did the upgrade to Mojave right after High Sierra was working.. it was smooth other than the network woes

final edit? maybe?: Got it. Thanks for being my rubber duck

I enabled "fix lan" in DSDT patching and then deleted the "Location" in network preferences and re-added the adapter. Been a long journey! Now to install the software I couldn't before and finally enjoy dark mode :)

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Portable-Ethernet-Network-Notebooks/dp/B014ZOJX7W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1520803111&sr=8-3&keywords=anker+usb+ethernet&dpID=41zwSbv-k4L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I've been using this one for a month with no issues to report.

http://www.amazon.com/Anker-Gigabit-Ethernet-Converter-Support/dp/B014ZOJX7W/

Sorry, didn’t read your question correctly. But to answer your question, i think this is pretty close to what you’re looking for in terms of thunderbolt.

Edit: And this for USB

I use this. rugged, flexible, no issues. Sometimes the extra cable is handy, if you don't need the slimfit.

I have tried a few of these. I like this one because it is compact. I also have this one when I need to free up USB ports.

When i was deciding this same question, i was advised to get the non-chroma core x and a separate usb 3.0 hub because the GPU data floods the ports with its information so if you had your keyboard and mouse connected to the same bus they would have a lot of input lag as your key presses try to fight through the onslaught of information from the GPU, whereas using the usb 3.0 hub uses a different section of the computer and doesnt have any input lag.

So if that is important to you, go with a separate hub with the non-chroma core-x

Edit: I bought the non-chroma core X with this hub.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014ZOJX7W/

I have a super micro USB otg adapter, it plugs into micro USB and then you slide it into a USB male connector, turning it into a normal USB port basically here's the link

And I use a USB hub similar to this one, Ethernet and 3 ports, should handle keyboard and usb fine, higher powered accessories may need more power, but I've been fine using controllers, keyboards etc

Just reread your post I'm sorry I didn't realize what you meant, as for something for external drives, generally external drives will be external powered, if not it'll be powered through usb you will need a powered USB hub, no way around it, ones that are powered through usb use one is for data and another USB for power

I haven’t tested the Ethernet speed, but I just got this USB hub with Ethernet for my Surface Pro 3 and I really like it: USB hub with Ethernet I got it for a travel adapter to expand USB and use wired network at the office, it’s a great size for travel and the fully detachable USB connection cable is an extra bonus.

Just use a USB hub with power switch for each port like this: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M

Eject your external drive first in settings and switch off the USB port when you're done using harddrive. Next time you just need to flip the switch on to mount the drive again. No need to repeatedly plug & unplug harddrive.

I can vouch for this one. Works great with Windows, Linux, and Mac. Built pretty solid too:

http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Bus-Powered-Converter-Ultrabooks-Compatible/dp/B00IJU0K2Q

I am currently using an old PC so have been looking at my options. Thought I would share.

A Dell R210 II is reputed to be great for PFSense and go for $200 on ebay, cheaper than your build.

Or look at an Intel NUC. They're tiny and fanless, a great combo for an edge device. Around $250 new.

Or go with the PC. Quieter than rackmount, and you can control the quality by buying new, replaceable parts.

Or something like these:

Appliance

Mini PC

I didn’t think of it until just now, but I ordered this for my Mac and I’m gonna try and see if it works later today. It is by no means cheap in comparison to docks/dongles intended for the switch, but if the future lies with usb-c and compatibility this would be awesome in terms of portability and I always have this on me anyways.

We currently use these in our environment and they work very well.

https://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Aluminum-Multi-Port-Ethernet-Pass-Through/dp/B075FW7H5J/

Have you seen some of the reviews? They mention the same ethernet issue. Another one of the users mentions EMI issues. https://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Aluminum-Multi-Port-Ethernet-Pass-Through/product-reviews/B075FW7H5J/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_hist_1?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=one_star&reviewerType=all_reviews#reviews-filter-bar

im a bit confused, is there usability besides it just being a usb drive in a mac style (white, pretty, slick) ?

If not, why not get something like.

http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396035645&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+splitter

and have 3-4-5 more ports

If you are going the android route I always recommend that people think long term and cough up the money on a Nvidia Shield. That is ultimately the "smart" play. But I get it...some just can't afford it, or more often simply can't get past feeling that they shouldn't have to pay out that much money on a device (which a lot of those people still end up doing latter mind you and after never being completely satisfied with the cheaper devices while knowing something a lot better was still out there. Me being one of them once upon a time).

General rule of thumb though, don't buy anything with under 2gb of ram. You also ideally want your IPTV hard wired, so something that has an ethernet port or a proven to work well with it adapter option (that amazon branded one sucks btw).

I believe Walmart just released the new Xiaomi Mi S box at $59.99. Amazon doesn't have the adapter in stock anymore that I found to be solid (I read the cheaper one works, although I never tested it personally though), but if you could dig it up somewhere else that would be my sub-$100 recommendation: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LLUEJXW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1