Best computer networking modems according to redditors

Well it's not like you can purchase your own for much less than that. Oh, wait, yeah you can

This is why I purchase my own modem, one without wifi capability.

For anyone wishing to do the same here is the modem I use, and is compatible with most standards.

http://smile.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SB6121-SURFboard-DOCSIS/dp/B004XC6GJ0/

http://smile.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SurfBoard-SB6141-DOCSIS/dp/B00AJHDZSI/

70 dollars may seem like a lot, but if you're renting a modem from your provider for 7 dollars it begins to pay for it self in under a year.

But then you'll have to go through the incredibly painful experience of returning the modem, them saying you never returned it even though you did, and them charging you the cost of the device. I'd recommend sending in your modem via certified mail and then keep the receipt for when they demand you pay because they never got it.

EDIT: Changed URL to latest model, thanks goes to /u/Dark_Shroud. Old link is preserved for those who want a cheaper model that will still work with their connection.

Currently in a house with 5 gamers total

I live in house with 3 other guys and a buddy of ours has been crashing on our couch for the past month (long story, but he's cool and contributes to cooking, cleaning, and utilities) We all play League of Legends, a handful of us play BF3, a few others play Tera, and then various other games such as CS:GO and TF2, and other console games like Super Smash Bros. and Mario Kart.

We have been here for about 1.5 months, below are some issues that we encountered:

• Bandwidth: we have a 105Mbps down/ 20Mbps up pipe provided by Comcast. The Router that comcast provided sucked, constant latency spikes, no QOS, terrible admin console. I ended up going out and buying my own modem and Router. I got the Motorola SB6121 and an Asus-RT-N66U Router (I could have paid an additional $30 and got an AC router, but honetly, none of us use the wireless for our computers, and any wireless device we do use which include phones, tablets, laptops, Apple TV, Ouya, PS3 etc, do not support 802.11AC and even if they did, none of them even saturate 802.11N) This completely solved our issues with lag spikes, and by far was the most frustrating issue we dealt with thus far.
  
  
• Electricity: I don't know where you guys are living, but being in Texas the A/C was on constantly, so be prepared for a large electric bill. Our last bill was ~$270, but that is pretty much as high as it will go.
  
  
• NAS: Currently I have 3 1TB drives in my computer and I am using Windows to share the content, we are currently using XBMC to play media across our computers as well as the Ouya and the Apple TV which are both hooked up to TVs. (1 in the living room, the other in the breakfast room/nook) I want to eventually build/buy a NAS, but I have been way too busy at work and I've been spending too much money on going and eating out.. so that needs to change.
  
  
• Last bit of advice I'd have to give, is make everyone do chores or something, it gets dirty very fast at our place with 5 guys living there, 2 dogs, 1 cat(although she is mostly outside), plus friends, girlfriends, and parties also all happening at our place.
  

I have this and love it.

https://www.amazon.com/Motorola-SURFboard-SB6141-DOCSIS-High-Speed/dp/B007IMPMW4

Docsis 3 modems aren't too expensive. You can buy one yourself for cheap and still get better internet speeds.

This one is only $83 and I haven't had a single problem with it and it has 4.5 stars. I can replace it every year and break even. Everything beyond that is savings.

Edit... messed up the link :http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004XC6GJ0/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00

Honestly I think they are just bullshitting you on that one. They make more money from the equipment rental fees than they would if they just sold the equipment outright, even for an inflated price.

I would advise you to do your research on what modems are compatible as Comcast ends up being dicks when it comes to you using your own hardware. for example this one says it is Comcast Xfinity Certified, whereas some others don't.

I use this modem: http://smile.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SB6121-SURFboard-DOCSIS/dp/B004XC6GJ0/

first of, stop leasing a modem!
http://www.amazon.com/Arris-Motorola-SB6121-SURFboard-DOCSIS/dp/B004XC6GJ0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372053573&sr=8-1&keywords=motorola+surfboard+sb6121+docsis+3.0+cable+modem

You are asking all new prices for used items.

That coffee maker is barely $20 on Amazon and you are asking $15 for it...USED.

Your Old West Boots for $90 aren't even $110 brand new.

The Motorola S85101U Modem is less than $50. The Linksys Router is three years old - the latest and newest version of the same (E1200 vs E1000) is less than $35. So you are asking BRAND NEW prices for three year old items?

So just a few dollars more (or in some cases, like the router & modem, cheaper), I can get brand new items that come with a return policy...plus cashback from my credit card rewards program. Come on...get real.

Sure!

Antenna: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Altelix-2-4-GHz-WiFi-24dB-Grid-Antenna-Long-Range-High-Gain-Outdoor-Directional/152930295331

Note: For this antenna, you will need to add about 3.5 cm of spacing on the reflector (Like https://i.imgur.com/ruqJmZ1.jpg) I made a 3D printable model just for this antenna that’s just the right size that you can download here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3540047

LNA (Powered by SDR Bias Tee): https://www.amazon.com/Nooelec-SAWbird-GOES-Barebones-Applications/dp/B07GBFNV1H

SDR: https://www.amazon.com/RTL-SDR-Blog-RTL2832U-Software-Defined/dp/B0129EBDS2 (Note: If this thing gets too hot it will lose signal!)

​

This is plugged into a Raspberry Pi 3+ running goestools (https://github.com/pietern/goestools)

For the best modem, get this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016PE1X5K

And in combination with this router, you will get every bit of speed you pay for:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S9SGNNS

I regularlly get ~180Mbps down. Good luck! (I only pay for the 150 down plan)

https://www.amazon.com/Next-Generation-ARRIS-SURFboard-SB8200-DOCSIS/dp/B01N6SKK1G

supports docsis 3.1

you're always better off with your own modem than the cable company's modem.

I would suggest the latest model 8 downstream channel model. Just so you won't have to upgrade agian for several years to a decade.

http://smile.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SurfBoard-SB6141-DOCSIS/dp/B00AJHDZSI

Edit 1;

Well I just found an even newer model not listed in my search for some reason.

Here is the full list to make is simple for everyone:

4 channel http://smile.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SB6121-SURFboard-DOCSIS/dp/B004XC6GJ0

8 channel http://smile.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SurfBoard-SB6141-DOCSIS/dp/B00AJHDZSI

Here is the latest 16 channel now available good for up to 700 Mbps or a couple hundred if they are capping channels. http://smile.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SurfBoard-SB6183-DOCSIS/dp/B00MA5U1FW

Edit 2;

Fixed my links that weren't working and updated to the smile charity option.

If you have a digital phone service through your cable company you'll need this unit. Just make sure your company supports this unit before buying it. Check out the comments, questions, & reviews on the page for more information.

Arris TM822G Touchstone® DOCSIS 3.0 8x4 Ultra-High Speed Telephony Modem:

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00721TUNS

One huge thing for me was stopping myself (and my parents) from spending ~$10/month on a cable internet modem rental through Comcast. If anyone has comcast I highly recommend you just get one of these (they are very highly rated):

For internet speeds less than ~150mbps: http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6121-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B004XC6GJ0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449495356&sr=8-1&keywords=motorola+sb+6121

For internet speeds greater than ~150mbps: http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6141-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B00AJHDZSI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449495487&sr=8-1&keywords=motorola+sb6141

NOTE: If they are close in price whenever you look at these amazon links, get the sb6141. It'll future proof you for a few years at least.

If you're in the US

• Buy a cable service package from whichever monopoly controls your region. Just search "cable service provider [city]"
  
• Buy a modem. This turns your cable into internet
  
• Buy a wireless router. This turns your hardline internet into wireless internet.
  
• Hook up all that stuff.
  
  You can rent these things from the major providers but after 10 months buying your own equipment will pay for itself and you can take it with you. The modem and router I listed are the ones I have in my apartment and I highly recommend. Good speeds and connectivity all over the entire place. It'll run you about $130. Definitely worth it. I've had mine for almost two years with no issues.

I agree, you may be better off with Powerline, or even better, Moca if you have a coax port in that basement. See links below:

https://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-powerline-networking-kit/

https://smile.amazon.com/Motorola-Adapter-Ethernet-2-Pack-MM1002/dp/B078HMDDVS/

I bought this modem years ago to knock the $10 a month rental off my bill. Pays for itself quickly.

Motorola Surfboard SB6141 DOCSIS 3.0 High-Speed Cable Modem- Black (OEM Brown Box) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007IMPMW4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AWIVDbSGFRCKX

My flagship project I've done with a Pi is having it download satellite images of the earth from satellites overhead.

For instance, this picture was taken from a US weather satellite yesterday using a program called wxtoimg, a $20 USB radio receiver, and a tape measure.

Stop wasting your money and buy a router modem for $50. Pays for itself in less than a year. i've been using this one for a year without issue.

I've done it both ways, it's far easier with a USB stick. Not only that, but you eliminate a possible point of failure by removing smartthings. There's a combo zwave and zigbee usb stick on amazon that you can also connect smart bulbs to.

Edit: Added a link

Also (maybe) in the works.. WAN failover\load balancing for WAN2? NetGear makes a device that many other Ubiquiti users have been using for failover.

I bought this one

It has worked flawlessly for me.

The solution to this is simple. Buy a $70 DOCSIS 3.0 modem and a $120 or less wireless router. Return your equipment to Comcast and KEEP THE RECEIPT.

http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-SB6121-SURFboard-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B004XC6GJ0/ref=dp_ob_title_ce

Get that, you wont be disappointed.

Don't rent a modem from them. Buy your own. You're literally giving them free money for no reason if you do that.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016PE1X5K/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_1LmYCbMF6MJPT

I use this guy. It's worked very well for me. I have the 150 down plan and get around 120 down in actuality. It's only $60

ARRIS SURFboard SB6141 DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem - Retail Packaging - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YUU5628/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9volzbRT650F2

> Are there any solutions to improve powerline until a better one is established?

Nope. Such is the life of powerline. Erratic behavior is expected.

> Any help would be appreciated.
>
> I read about MoCA, and it sounds like a good, but expensive option (though the coax wiring is even more of a mess the the regual wiring is).

Cable lines are at least designed to carry data while powerlines are not. All you need is a cable connection between two places. It can be split as long as the splitters are of good quality and don't interfere with the MoCA.

This set is an affordable option: https://smile.amazon.com/Motorola-Adapter-Ethernet-2-Pack-MM1002/dp/B078HMDDVS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=motorola+moca&qid=1562258609&s=gateway&sa-no-redirect=1&sr=8-3&x=0&y=0

Basically anything is going to be better than powerline.

It is as simple as screwing in the coax cable into the modem and picking up the phone and reading comcast the "MAC" number on the back of the router.

Here is a good one comcast accepts - http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SB6121-SURFboard-DOCSIS/dp/B004XC6GJ0/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1409477977&sr=1-1&keywords=comcast+modem

If you want to go a step further, pick up a router that accepts tomato firmware and get that going.

Modem

WiFi

Don't pay Comcast for modem rental, just buy your own and break even in under a year. Setup is easy. Rentals are a ripoff.

There is no such thing as a "gaming" router or modem. All of that is marketing fluff.


Having both your own router and modem is a good idea. See here for good examples:

(I am assuming your USA)

Modem:

MOTOROLA 16x4 Cable Modem, Model MB7420, DOCSIS 3.0. Approved by Comcast Xfinity, Cox, Charter Spectrum, Time Warner Cable, and More. Downloads 686 Mbps Maximum (No WiFi) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A1E6BA2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_S9xKCbK9FCPTA

Router:


NETGEAR R6700 Nighthawk AC1750 Dual Band Smart WiFi Router, Gigabit Ethernet (R6700) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R2AZLD2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_qgyKCbRJE7W46

Wired is always better than wireless. However, if wired is not possible, position the router close to the device and use the 5g band. This is the closest thing to wired on a wireless connection.

Current Setup

Physical:

• Arris SB6141 Modem
  
  
• HP DC5800 SFF (Pentium E2220) - pfSense 2.4.4 w/ snort, pfblocker-ng, ClamAV
  
  
• 3x 8-port GbE dumbswitches (TrendNet)
  
  
• TP-Link 8-port GbE (4xPoE) Managed Switch
  
  
• 2x AdvancedTomato flashed "Routers" (used as managed switches)
  
  
• IBM x3650 M2 (2xE5620, 64GB DDR3, 12-bay + SAS expander) - XCP-ng 7.5
  
• 4x450GB Raid5
  
• 4x300GB Raid5
  
• 2x135GB Raid0 (non critical data)
  
• 1x135GB
  
• 1x73GB
  
  
  
• [Whitebox] Asus M5A99FX, AMD FX-8320, 20GB DDR3 - ESXi 6.7
  
• 2x2TB + 2x3TB RAID5 via OMV VM (File share, not VMFS)
  
• 120GB SSD
  
  
• HP DX7500 (Core2Duo E7400) - OpenMediaVault, NUT Server
  
• Mediasonic HF2-SU3S2 4 Bay 3.5” Enclosure (4x3TB in RAID 5)
  
  
• UBNT Unifi-AC-Pro
  
  
• UPS: APC BR1500I
  
  
• UPS: APC SU2200R3X167 3U - currently disconnected and lacks batteries
  
  
• UPS: Cyberpower 1385AVR LCD
  
  

  Virtual:
  

• Windows Server 2016 - DNS, DHCP, AD
  
  
• Windows Server 2016 - Failover/Replication: DNS, DHCP, AD
  
  
• Ubuntu 18.04 - Graylog
  
• Ubuntu 16.04 - Minecraft via MCMyAdmin/AMP
  
• Ubuntu 18.04 - Shinobi CCTV | MariaDB Server
  
• Ubuntu 16.04 - Docker: Nextcloud
  
• Ubuntu 16.04 - Hass.io
  
• USB3 PCIe Passthrough: Linear HUSBZB-1 Zigbee and Zwave dongle
  
• Ubuntu 16.04 - Xen-Orchestra, Grafana, Unifi Controller
  
• Fedora Server 23 - Docker: Sabnzbd, Transmission, Muximux
  
• Ubuntu 16.04 - Caddy Reverse Proxy w/ net plugin
  
• Ubuntu 16.04 - Confluence, Jira
  
• Fedora Server 24 - Docker: Plex, Couchpotato, Sonarr, Headphones
  
• 2x OpenMediaVault (one on each hypervisor)
  
• 2x Windows VMs (7 Ultimate + 10 Pro) RDP via SSH tunnel, I tend to do Domain GPO testing on these if not just accessing for privacy
  
  

  Plans
  

• Currently the physical systems are spread out, nothing is racked, I have a new 24U Rack I need to fill up down in the basement, which includes routing some network wiring for the first time to fulfill.
  
• Adding on to my Hass.io set up with more lights/thermostats/sensors
  
• Acquire more storage for reconfiguring older drive config in IBM
  
• edit: Replace dying PSU in ESXi Whitebox to utilize a GPU for Object detection with CCTV system.

All the links contain affiliate links (tag=lx7-20&linkId=fe646f143f52bb0de1504aa396676d4e). Unaffiliated links are below. The user has posted affiliate links before, so I believe this is not an "Oops" mistake. The users also posted this in Beermoney as well, but it was removed because of the affiliate links included.
_____
Access Point - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRO512/

Router - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YFJT29C

Powerline Adapter - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EE9APYS

Modem -https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016PE1X5K

Ethernet Cables - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E5I7VJG

It's the way to go, most ISPs charge $10 - $15 a month to rent. You can buy a modem for $50 (don't forget to check the modem speed if you've got gigabit)

Modem List

Get the V3 blog dongle. Has a txco so signals will not drift, bias-t to power lna's or whatever, better build quality and does direct sampling HF with just software. Nice antenna kit (https://www.rtl-sdr.com/using-our-new-dipole-antenna-kit/ ) with this one - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011HVUEME/ or just the dongle - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0129EBDS2 . Spec sheet on it - https://www.rtl-sdr.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/RTL-SDR-Blog-V3-Datasheet.pdf

I would suggest a SDR, in all honesty. No risk of accidentally transmitting anything and causing interference. Something like a RTLSDR https://www.amazon.com/RTL-SDR-Blog-RTL2832U-Software-Defined/dp/B0129EBDS2 it's cheap enough, and you can rig up an antenna pretty quickly.

This is better suited for /r/rtlsdr, but the R820T2 has better sensitivity/noise characteristics compared to the R820T. Get one in a metal enclosure and with a TCXO for additional stability and noise protection.

Finally got around to moving the antenna from a second story window to the attic. Went from 150-250 msgs/sec to 800-900. Need to rethink my range rings and labels...

FlightAware Antenna, RTL-SDR V3, RTL-SDR1090Mhz LNA/Filter, Short (6") coax and 15 ft USB cable, RaspPi feeding FA, FR24, ADSBExchange, and a VirtualRadar server

It has to be DOCSIS 3.0. The more channels available the more stable your speeds and the higher speeds you can buy. This is why some models costs more but look the same. Channels = Speed.

https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6190-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B016PE1X5K

The SB6190 is the best consumer modem that money can buy.

Our installation fee was 59.95. I signed up for the 29.99 25mbs for 12 months promo. My first bill was right around $90 and the rest of my bills for the next 11 months should be at or around $34. The installation really was necessary though as there was no cable line running to our house from the main line.

I bought my own modem from Amazon, $68.99, and noted as such when I signed up for Comcast. It is a no-brainer to buy your own modem-- Comcast charges $6 or so a month for a rental so after the first year it's $72 down the drain versus a modem you can use forever.

As soon as the tech left, I plugged the modem into my WiFi router no problems (I might have cloned the MAC address of my laptop but I don't think I did-- I don't think they care about that anymore).

The service has been very consistent, fast, and reliable. No complaints.

Good luck.

I just ordered a Surfboard 6121 and its a really great modem. Pair it with an ASUS router like this and you have a wonderful combination. The range is extremely far, you can customize a lot of settings and you don't have to pay the monthly price. Comcast was charging me $8 a month for my modem, so after 6 months ill have paid for it already (picked mine up on sale).

You ran that test to comcast. That's not even across the internet. You have a serious problem that is not directly related to comcast sucking. Shitty speeds like that have Three sources: Bad wifi or ethernet connection to your PC, bad modem, bad wiring in your house (almost always splitters).

Assuming you have a laptop, and your cable isn't fished through the wall, but mostly runs along baseboards (as comcast does), you can take yourself, your laptop, and your modem trace the cable down to the first splitter that you have in the house after the cable comes inside, detach the cable from the input side of the splitter, attach the modem, plug your PC DIRECTLY into the modem via ethernet (be sure to turn off wifi) and run the test again.

(note: if you have one of those wifi modems shitbags that comcast rents, you shouldn't.)

If your speed improves dramatically and your ping times become reasonable, it is the wiring. Remove your splitters and either buy your own from amazon (make sure to match the specs. you want a splitter that can handle the frequencies the docsis 3 require), or take them down to the comcast store and ask for replacements (best if you not explain, they usually don't care and will throw them right at you no matter what). If after you apply those splitters back into the system, your speeds at your preferred modem location do not improve, repeat again at each splitter and replace the faulty length of coaxial cable.
Chance this will fix the problem: 80-90%

If your speeds do not improve, try a different ethernet cable. If that doesn't fix it, take your Modem (Assuming you lease) back to comcast (the store. do not bother calling support) and either ask for a replacement, or ask that they stop charging you a rental fee of $6 a month and go buy your own for the cost of 6-10 months of rental fees.
Chance that this or the previous steps will resolve your issue: 99.99%

Should your speeds be shit even after all of this, you need to call Comcast. At this point you are either in a really old apartment building with shit wiring throughout the building (Cocmast / your landlord's problem), there's something wrong in your neighborhood infrastructure (comcast's problem) or you live in a formerly segregated neighborhood that has irreparably bad infrastructure (society's problem)

GoControl CECOMINOD016164 HUSBZB-1 USB Hub.

​

Added this to /config/configuration.yaml

zwave:

polling_interval: 60000

usb_path: /dev/ttyUSB0

network_key: "0xXX, 0xXX, 0xXX, 0xXX, 0xXX, 0xXX, 0xXX, 0xXX, 0xXX, 0xXX, 0xXX, 0xXX, 0xXX, 0xXX, 0xXX, 0xXX"

zha:

usb_path: /dev/ttyUSB1

​

I must say, however, I have not tested zigbee, as I do not have any zigbee devices, but I do not see why it would not work, as it works for others, and shows up in my HA settings.

Drop the phone service at the same time you replace your modem. Also don't pay for one with shit like an integrated wifi router, etc.

I like/use this Netgear, even if it's a tad pricey.

no you dont, and nor do any of those places. no where sells DOCSIS 3.1 yet, you can only lease them from the ISP, and i think comcast is even the only ISP using them currently

BUT it looks like amazon is advertising the first consumer one i've seen. for $180 and it releases in a week.

EDIT: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-CM1000-Ultra-High-Speed-Cable/dp/B01I5TJGSE/

Nortek/Linear/GoControl HUSBZB-1. Uses a single USB port; does both zigbee and z-wave. I got mine for $35 including shipping. Works with Home Assistant.

This is the one I have, it has both Zigbee and Z-Wave radios so it replaced my Z-stick too. Works great.

Linear HUSBZB-1

I have one of these. Has External antenna ports and works pretty seamlessly. Just pop in a SIM. Its relatively low power too so using it on a battery is fairly easy.
netgear 4g lte router

http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-SURFboard-SB6141-DOCSIS-High-Speed/dp/B007IMPMW4

Either the SB6141 or the SB6121

From http://mydeviceinfo.comcast.net/ both are fully compatible. I don't think the star rating means much, the definitions are very vague, and I have heard that the 6141 is quite nice.

You'll need to call Comcast and give them the MAC address (HFC MAC - it's the MAC address for the copper cable input). Supposedly, supported device auto-register, but I've never had any luck with that.

This is from an RTL-SDR.com V3 dongle. And it looks "crisp" because a) METEOR-M2 is a digital signal so you don't see the analog noise you might find in a NOAA satellite image, and b) I've sharpened it in GIMP.

In fact I had to clone out some of the data dropouts (some of them occurring on the satellite side) and clean it up a bit. If you're interested, the original unaltered raw image is here. The two thicker bands at the lower and upper third of the image are the METEOR signal resetting itself, so I cloned/healed all that out.

As soon as I got the rental notice I went to amazon and bought the exact same model I had through time warner for about 50 dollars:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002M3SHXA/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Not a TW fan. I did get a good deal when I tried to switch to Dish, though. So now atleast I'm not paying an arm and a leg for cable.

buy this and quit renting

I just bought this from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004XC6GJ0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My speed went from 50mbs to 120mbps. Thats worth $80. Also, for that much speed, make sure your firewall has a gig interface on it.

For comparison:

7 x 12 = $84

Motorola DOCSIS 3.0 Modem = $86

You may want to contact them and have them check the signal levels at your modem; you'll have to have a cable guy come out usually for no charge. I used to work for TWC/RoadRunner, this was a common problem. Also, make sure your modem is not attached to multiple (usually the tech will give you a special one that will only degrade the signal by -1.5db) splitters so it gets the best signal possible. You basically want it to be the first device connected directly to the cable trunk outside. This is very important. Cable modems are very picky. If Charter supports it, and you can afford it, pick up this cable modem (just call them and ask.) It improved my speeds on Comcast. As and added bonus, you won't be renting a modem from them for ~$10/mo so it will pay for itself pretty soon.

Ditto everything here. No complaints with Charter for the most part.

Before you go through the headache of moving away from Charter, you might look into a DOCSIS 3.0 modem. I've been back with Charter for about a year, and did a self-install activation of an old, generic DOCSIS 2.0 modem that came with my Charter account circa-2004. I was getting frustrated with disconnects and TERRIBLE bandwidth during peak hours.

So I decided to buy a Motorola Surfboard DOCSIS 3.0 modem. It made a huge difference in connection speed and stability.

http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-SB6120-SURFboard-eXtreme-Broadband/dp/B001UI2FPE

If you have a lower tier internet package (30 mpbs or lower), you can just get an older model used modem for 10 bucks. This is the one I picked up earlier this year, and I've had zero drops in latency or speed from my original router/modem combo from Comcast:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002M3SHXA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's also wise to buy a cable modem yourself since you won't get charged to rent theirs.

If you buy your own it will pay itself off in about a year (7$/mo) and anything after that is pure savings.

Surfboard

Buy this modem and the router/wireless access point of your choice. I like this one but you can go cheaper or more fancy if you like. Connect the modem to the cable line and the router to the modem. Write down the MAC address and serial number for each thing.

Next, take a shot, and call comcast. Tell them you want their $35/month internet-only plan and you have your own modem. Connect the modem to the cable line before calling to make things easier. They will try to sell you some stuff and get some info, but just be patient and stay on target.

This is where it gets fun. If you've been graced by heaven, you'll be done in 5 minutes but I've never seen this happen. Most likely you will be transferred around to several people, having to repeat the same info while they struggle to activate your modem. They will claim there's no signal, they'll say "maybe it's not supported," and they'll very likely drop the call at least once. Keep calling and eventually, probably within 45 minutes to an hour, they will miraculously succeed.

It will end up costing $40/month, because there's some retarded $5 fee on top of the subscription. If they try to charge you for a modem rental or installation, challenge it immediately.

Yes, this is the easiest and cheapest way to get internet in this city. Fortunately, setting up gas/electric is about a 5 minute phone call with the lovely folks at national grid.

TP-Link DOCSIS 3.0 (8x4) Cable Modem (TC-7610-E)

Was original listed at $50. Then the price dropped to $30, so I picked one up. But it seems the price has risen again.

I would suggest a usb stick that does both, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-CECOMINOD016164-Linear-HUSBZB-1/dp/B01GJ826F8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537397378&sr=8-3&keywords=zigbee+zwave+usb

Combo sticks that do zwave and zigbee are also an option, Linear HUSBZB-1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJ826F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KX7WzbW9ERS1E. I've been very happy with mine.

I use this:
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Modem-Gigabit-Ethernet-Ports/dp/B01N5ASNTE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1536690667&sr=8-1&keywords=netgear%2Blte%2Bmodem&th=1

with this:
https://www.amazon.com/Netgear-6000450-MIMO-Antenna-Connectors/dp/B00DN3J03O/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1536690667&sr=8-4&keywords=netgear+lte+modem

It's pretty cheap, I live in Oregon, outside of Portland, we rarely have bad storms and almost never have service disruptions that aren't an ISP making a mistake, but it's nice to have just in case :)

If you're buying your own modem, you might as well get a DOCSIS 3.1 modem - Not that the 3.0 won't support your speed, but to future proof yourself. The Motorola version is this:

https://www.amazon.com/MOTOROLA-Approved-Comcast-Gigablast-MB8600/dp/B0723599RQ/ref=sr_1_7?crid=MN7K7BCN9JT8&keywords=docsis+3.1+modem&qid=1566855330&s=electronics&sprefix=docsis+3.1%2Celectronics%2C175&sr=1-7

As for a WiFi router, the Nighthawk series is Netgears top of the line, so place it in the middle most part of your house on a shelf or somewhere up high and you should get pretty decent coverage.

Since you own the home, you could go all out and do a couple of Ethernet runs in the ceiling and mount two (or more) wireless access points where you need a little more coverage.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ubiquiti+unifi+apac+lite&qid=1566855646&s=electronics&sr=1-3

You could buy an SDR dongle that will let you use your computer as a radio for about $20. Here's one that goes up to 1700 MHz (I have little experience with these so I can't recommend a particular one). So that will let you listen to 1420 MHz, but you're not going to hear any aliens. Astronomers use huge radio telescopes and computers to try to detect very weak signals across interstellar distances.

While it's not going to be sensitive enough to do any real SETI, you'd still have a radio receiver that lets you listen to an extremely wide frequency range.

Thanks! And also thank you for clarifying the black bars. It's unfortunate that it is a glitch in Meteor but I'm glad to hear its not a local error within my setup.

As for the radio I'm running I'm using a standard RTL-SDR dongle I got on amazon.

It isn't that. My parents had problems when there was an LED bulb in the floodlight that was mounted about a foot away from my garage door opener. If the flood light was on, the garage door operation was very intermittent.

Grab one of these (https://www.amazon.com/RTL-SDR-Blog-RTL2832U-Software-Defined/dp/B0129EBDS2) and an antenna and watch happens to the RF spectrum when you get too close to a cheap LED bulb.

Pulling about 117/11 here in Monkey Junction, on the formerly 30/5 service.

For those of you with your own modems (if you don't have your own, you're wasting money btw!), you may need to upgrade to get the full throughput.

I have a Motorola/Arris SB6141, and the reason I'm not getting 200/20 is because of it. Realistically whatever the max speed claimed on a cable modem is, divide it by three and that's what you'll actually be able to max.

Anyone in need of upgrades, I'd suggest one of the following:
http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6183-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B00MA5U1FW/

http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6190-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B016PE1X5K/

So there's a few things in play here...

1. Your triple play bargain, the way the biller is structured, depends on you having all 3 services. If one is removed, the offer is invalidated and a new rate code has to be put on, otherwise service is disconnected.
   
   
2. In order to have a voice rate code on the biller, you must have a voice modem. There is no way around this. No equipment, no service. No service, no special price.
   
   
3. Some markets allow you to purchase your own eMTA. Others do not. Most national techs (on the phone) have no idea whether your market does or does not. The easiest way to get an answer to this question is to ask in your local office.
   
   
4. The only telephony modem that's really available for consumers to buy is this one from Arris. It costs $180, compared to about $69 for a regular cable modem.
   
   So unfortunately, yes, you need to either rent a telephony modem or purchase one if allowed, or switch to a double-play deal. The system will not let you keep the current price without phone service, and it won't maintain phone service without a telephony modem on the account.

This is extremely important. I used to have the standard wireless gateway for which they love to charge you $8/month. It's not fast enough wirelessly to get you even close to those speeds, so don't bother.

I bought my own 2.4/5GHz Dual Band (300+450) 802.11n router, the TP-Link TL-WDR4300 and it has been great. It's only about $66 on Newegg. It's great, and much cheaper than the Belkin or Netgear competitors.

Now, I also have the Triple Play with voice because it's cheaper to have it than not, but that means I need a modem with phone service as well. I bought the Arris TM822G from Amazon for $127. It'll take a little over a year to pay for itself, but this way I don't have to rent theirs anymore, nor do I have a device that also transmits wireless frequencies sitting next to my router, causing interference. (Note: if you don't have voice, I recommend the Motorola SB6141 + a dual band router.)

Finally, I moved my modem and router down to the 1st floor living room where I spend most of my time using the internet. I was sitting next to it as I did this speedtest. Previously it was upstairs in the back of the rowhouse, with a lot of wall material for the signal to travel through. This is bad and will slow your connection down significantly, especially if you're only using the default Comcast hardware. Good placement can almost be as important as the equipment itself. Keep it centrally located, away from metal, electronics or interference causing devices.

Modems that have a router. And Modems that require a separate router.


Separate is best. Search various other answers to this question, but, combo units make too many compromises.

For modem: Motorola 6141 seems to be the gold standard:

http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-SURFboard-SB6141-DOCSIS-High-Speed/dp/B007IMPMW4

Link for info only, shop around.


I also have other people in the house that would need to connect via Wi-Fi. Would it be a better idea to go with modem/router combo?


Best wifi is probably a higher end Asus unit.

This

http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-reviews/31841-asus-rt-ac66u-80211ac-dual-band-wireless-ac1750-gigabit-router-reviewed

This is a little cheaper

http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-reviews/31687-asus-rt-n66u-dark-knight-dual-band-wireless-n900-gigabit-router-reviewed

IF you have a smaller place, this might be OK

http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-reviews/31436-asus-rt-n56u-black-diamond-dual-band-gigabit-wireless-n-router-reviewed

But the N66 or AC66 are better.

In summary:

Separate units best
Motorola Modem
Asus wireless router.

Just an FYI since I've seen you reposting these a few times now, you're not likely to get much traction on the cable modem at that price: Refurb SB6141's with a warranty and prime shipping on amazon for $44 and refurbs go on sale all over the place, all the time. They're regularly on woot for $40, they're all over ebay, Newegg, etc.

Lesson learned. Best Buy/Geek Squad = idiots.

Modem

Router

Wireless Access Point

If you have a small-medium house you only need 1 access point. You can get any router you want, go cheaper if you want. If you're mainly going to be on WiFi I highly suggest the Ubiquiti AC-lite.

There is a setting in gpredict I think to that will update when a satellite has AOS, so you might want to just disable that so you can select a single satellite and not have it switch on you automatically.

In that video K7AGE does switch the polarization, most tripod heads will flip from horizontal to vertical - https://youtu.be/1HfvmU_utI8?t=165


Edit: You might want to try picking up some of the NOAA APT weather satellite birds, NOAA-15, NOAA-18, and NOAA-19. They have really strong transmitters, but you'll get a feel of the polar orbits and timing of chasing LEO birds. There is also 3 of them, and you can get multiple passes in each day with them. Just make sure to not transmit at all on the freq (lock out your radio, or use a SDR like a $20 RTL-SDR )

https://www.amazon.com/RTL-SDR-Blog-RTL2832U-Software-Defined/dp/B0129EBDS2/

This one. Also supports bias-t so you can power an LNA if you want.

I have a pair of NESDR smarts, they work well too. I believe then have finer tuning as well.

SB6190?

https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6190-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B016PE1X5K

We got the Motorola MB7420 for the modem and then the Google OnHub Router from TP-Link. We've experienced considerably better WiFi coverage and a better quality of service overall.

The cable devices that will initially support IPv6 are listed here and are shown with a checkmark in the IPv6 column (click the top of the column to sort by that variable). This list will expand in the coming weeks and months as we complete testing of other devices.

Currently: SB6120, WBM760A, and DCM-301. The 6120 is the one I'll probably get because there's a modding community using it.

I couldn't find mention of which markets they're targeting.

There are a few options out there, Motorola's are consistently rated very highly. I've linked to one here that supports up to a 172 mbps downstream, but doesn't have a built in wireless router (you would have to plug in a wireless router to access the internet wirelessly). There are also a few options to pick from that include wireless routers, and/or support faster speeds if you need it (it won't make your existing connection faster though, it just supports a higher level of bandwidth).

https://smile.amazon.com/SURFboard-SB6121-DOCSIS-Retail-Packaging/dp/B004XC6GJ0

This would be a good option if you want a built-in wifi router:

https://smile.amazon.com/SURFboard-SBG6782AC-DOCSIS-AC1800-Router/dp/B00GJ7Y7MU

You will have to call Comcast to provision the modem (basically just read them the MAC Address on the bottom of the modem and wait a few minutes). I've done this twice, and it's been straightforward. You can always just tell them that you don't like the idea of hosting a public hotspot (which you do if you have a Comcast modem with built in wifi-- it broadcasts on SSID "xfinitywifi" and is accessible by anyone that has a Comcast subscription).

Worst case scenario, your modem keeps breaking a day out of the one-year warranty and you have to buy a new one every year, but you're still breaking even and at least you haven't given more money to Time Warner than absolutely necessary.

I got the "Motorola SB6121"

Also the "Motorola SB6141" is a good one too. It's technically "better" since it has an more down stream channels then the 6121. I bought the lower model since it was cheaper.

I got it on amazon and made sure it was new in retail box, direct from Amazon and not a 3rd party seller.

Yeah, getting your own pays off in less than a year. Everyone should do this.

http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SB6121-SURFboard-DOCSIS/dp/B004XC6GJ0/ can handle up to 160mbps
http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SurfBoard-SB6141-DOCSIS/dp/B00AJHDZSI/ can handle up to 320mbps

Not that it matters right now, but the 6141 has a little more futureproofing.

So the first thing you should decide is what type of internet to get. The vast majority of people get cable or fiber (if they can afford it and if it's available). Both of those options give you good reliable internet. The cheap option is to get DSL which works over telephone lines. DSL usually has low speeds and isn't as reliable but only costs like $30 a month compared to $60-100 for better internet. If you like to stream movies or do anything outside of very basic browsing, I would say to get cable if you can afford it. What you do then is find a provider for that internet (internet service provider - ISP). Comcast, Cox, AT&T, Verizon, and many local companies are ISPs but you're probably limited to only one or two in whatever region you live (assuming USA). You should also know that these companies have random naming conventions for their services (Comcast calls their cable Xfinity while AT&T calls theirs Uverse) So you go to their web sites and compare plans and find something that works for you (if you don't know what speed you need, I would recommend 20 Mbps or more for streaming and normal use, 50 Mbps if you're a really heavy user). You can use this to find out what providers even have wiring in your area (if the top speed for a certain provider only shows as 10-25 mbps, then it's likely only DSL).

If you go with cable, you'll need both a modem (which receives the internet connection from the cable built into your apartment) and a router (which takes that wired connection and turns it into wireless - wifi). I would recommend buying your own hardware because companies like Comcast charge you something like $7-10 a month per modem/router that you get from them, which ends up being more expensive than buying your own to start with. If you buy your own modem, make sure it will work with whatever cable provider you select (something like this is standard). After that, you hook up your router. There are many to choose from. You can get one for as little as $10-30, but I would recommend getting a better one like this if you can as it performs exceptionally well and is easy to set up as well.

If you have any specific questions, let me know.

Make sure it's DOCSIS 3.0 and also look at the number of channels up and down.
http://www.amazon.com/Arris-SURFboard-SB6121-Download-Packaging/dp/B004XC6GJ0/
That one is 4 channels up and 4 channels down. It says on the box that it'll max out at 172Mbps. If you're paying for more than that, you're going to need a better one.

Couldn't agree more. Had issues last year, then got this modem and this router and have been flying ever since. Spending $90 may seem steep, but you pay monthly to rent it anyways.

Those messages about speeds being inadequate is done because owners of modems with the DOCSIS 2.0 or lessor are not going to get the speeds they pay for. Those messages do not come through on modems DOCSIS 3.0 or higher because you can get the full speeds.

I own a DOCSIS 3.0 modem - this is the one I purchased: http://amzn.com/B004XC6GJ0

Here is also the list of DOCSIS 3.0 modems approved by comcast based on speed tiers, just select what speed you're getting and it'll show you the compatible modems: http://mydeviceinfo.xfinity.com/

That cradle point is a module that goes into their modem. That’llbe an expensive touch. I haven’t used the other modems you listed.

Check out the netgear lb1120 + netgear omni antenna

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-LTE-Modem-Broadband-Connection/dp/B01N5ASNTE

https://www.amazon.com/Netgear-6000450-MIMO-Antenna-Connectors/dp/B00DN3J03O/ref=pd_aw_fbt_147_img_2/133-6043539-3895657?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=RFEFWZ75ZJDM4SJSJ5SR

> Why would they limit it to a single carrier AND a single plan

This device makes no sense overall. I have used one of these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N5ASNTE
In a few places with Tmobile service and it has worked great as a failover. It's SIM unlocked so you can use any provider you want and you can either use the built in router or just disable it and hook it to the LAN of your router and be off and running.

First, I would suggest this MoCA adapter. Cheaper and Motorola generally makes reliable equipment.

Motorola MOCA Adapter for Ethernet over Coax, 1,000 Mbps Bonded 2.0 MoCA (Model MM1000) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077Y3SQXR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8lL4AbTZQGZ04

Second, you just need to make sure the coax line your modem is hooked up to is split somewhere and also connected to the room you want the other adapter to be. You'll also want to purchase a MoCa filter to keep your MoCa in and block any other outside MoCa that others may not have blocked on their own.

Filter, MoCA "POE" Filter for Cable TV Coaxial Networking ONLY https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DC8IEE6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qoL4AbWDKZV5D

You'll just need one on the input cable to your home. Best outside where the exterior cable line meets your interior cable line.

I work for a cable company that uses MoCa extensively and I'm a huge fan of it. I've seen MoCa give 200-300 mb consistently using MoCa 2.0. Next best thing to straight Ethernet.

Have you looked into a MOCA type connection? It uses existing coaxial cable runs to transmit your data throughout the house. Of course this only works if you have coaxial cable already installed. Below is a link to one I use.

https://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Adapter-Ethernet-Bonded-MM1000/dp/B077Y3SQXR/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=motorola+moca+bonded+2.0+adapter&qid=1563623847&s=gateway&sprefix=motorola+moca&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

Been considering this myself, but looking at buying 2 of these as they are cheaper and seem to be the same specs.

Also, do not forget to get a Point of Entry filter.

Okay... So here's the thing.

Double-duty devices suck, your cable modem is dying, and well you can do better.

Here's my suggestion.

Find out what kind of cable modem you need from your ISP, and if MoCa is supported. Go ahead and just buy the modem from Amazon, in a year you will have it paid off in rental fees. Keep in mind, you will need to know what version of docsys and the multiplexing necessary for your connection. Going over the spec could be good future proofing if your ISP upgrades service.

If your new modem supports MoCa, MoCa adapters can allow you to run your network through your existing household coax. I think you have to have a modem/router bundle to do this, but if you don't want to run wires this is the best way. It also means that by adding a MoCa adapter to TVs, things like gaming consoles and media streamers will have optimal connection.

You may also want to look into mesh networking for wifi, you put a little nodes around your house that connect to each other and as long as the chain of nodes eventually gets to the main router you will have perfect wifi everywhere.

moca goes over coax not phone line so the wire used for your tv. It won't coexist with satellite services but will work just fine with cable. https://smile.amazon.com/Motorola-Adapter-Ethernet-Bonded-MM1000/dp/B077Y3SQXR

I know the Aeotec Z-Stick gets a lot of love, but I wanted zigbee support as well so I went with the Nortek which has both. If you have a strictly Z-wave setup the Z-Stick is a fabulous option, but for me the Nortek has never missed a beat. I currently have 6 Zigbee door sensors, 3 Z-wave plus light switches (GE) and a Z-wave plus motion sensor (GE) running through my usb hub.

Linear HUSBZB-1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJ826F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kgVGAbCT4RW6Y

Edit: forgot that I also have two Sengled bulbs paired as well.

It depends on your ISP, Gigabit is possible with DOCSIS 3.0 by bonding extra channels but not every ISP supports that configuration. You would be much better off with a DOCSIS 3.1 modem, especially if your ISP is telling you that it won't work. More importantly, the SB6190 uses a faulty Intel Puma 6 chipset which will cause issues no matter what service you use. Here is my source for that claim. A good modem to use for Gigabit service would be an SB8200 or a CM1000, they both use a Broadcom chip rather than the faulty Puma 6.

I be dammed if I pay $150 for that service, when the same damn speed only costs $70 with Google Fiber. Mediacom is taking advantage of the consumer with their monopoly on the internet market. If their was some viable competition in the market on internet, Mediacom would have lower prices. Plus, why on earth is there a data cap on a 1 gig connection, that's just asinine, just another ploy to get more of your money. Not to mention the fact that you have to rent their modem, even though Amazon sales docsis 3.1.

Some general thoughts.

You included a map. AMAZING.

1. You should be able to "convert" coax to ethernet. MoCA 2.0 Bonded Adapters work wonders and basically give full ethernet speed(~16x as fast as your internet). They work so long as the coax is not being used by satellite TV. If you're using satellite TV along that run, the DECA is the next best thing. DECA is 1/8th the speed but cheap kits can be had on amazon for $20 (still ~2x as fast as your internet). If you aren't doing network transfers either works. For 90% of people it's pretty much plug two adapters in and you're done. It's almost like magic. For the remaining 10%... MoCA filters, maybe fiddling with the 500 splits some cable-guy rushed into place 20 years ago, etc. Let me emphasize, it's pretty awesome, there's a reason why the reviews on the products are so awesome.
   https://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Adapter-Ethernet-Bonded-MM1000/dp/B077Y3SQXR/ (you'll likely need 2)
   https://www.amazon.com/PACK-Broadband-Ethernet-Generation-Supplies/dp/B01AYMGPIO/ (this is a paired kit)
   latency associated with MoCA is ~3ms; latency from Wifi is 3-100ms. MoCA tends to be VERY consistent.
   
   
   
2. A switch is a switch to some extent. I generally buy whatever is cheap from TP-Link or netgear. As long as it's gigabit.
   
3. The best way to improve your wifi is to probably add on another access point (or router repurposes as an AP) and set it with the same network name(SSID) and password
   https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-EAP225-V3-Wireless-Supports/dp/B0781YXFBT/
   
4. Flat ethernet cable is worse. At the same price, go for full, round ethernet... with that said, if being flat allows you to "get away" with it, it'll often work. I personally have used flat cables without issue and it often goes a long way with getting others to "approve". If your walls are white or you already have an existing cable... it disappears.
   

not sure where this goes, as i'm new to this as stated before..

But the ZOOM 5341J http://www.amazon.com/Zoom-DOCSIS-Cable-Modem-5341J/dp/B0063K4NN6 is the only modem I've used for TWC that provides seemingly uninterrupted service in the last 6 months. Hopefully this works for the other unlucky TWC Guardians out there as well.

It's pretty easy to do and I recommend it, because this is a purchase you will recoup quickly. You can check a list of compatible modems here:

• Time Warner / Spectrum Approved DOCSIS 3.0 and 2.0 Cable Modems
  
• Lease a Modem from TWC or Buy Your Own Modem
  
• twc-compatible-modems.pdf
  
  Pick the model that matches your budget and the speed of the contract you have with TWC (provided that they are honest about it, and you now know they aren't). Once you have a good candidate or two, buy the one with the best Amazon reviews -- I ordered the Motorola SB6141 SB6141 Modem for example, 4 years ago.
  
  Bring back the TWC modem you are leasing to one of their offices (say, at Colonie Center), then connect your own, and give them a call -- they will walk you through the process of activating it.
  
  Important:
  
  
• DO CHECK that you are no longer being charged for leasing the modem that you returned,
  
• DO CHECK AGAIN 6 months later -- they brought back the charge on my bill "accidentally" later on (because of course they did).
  

$2 a month is not bad for renting at $24 a year. I have seen some as cheap as $30 so do the math over how long you will be needing to rent it.

Here is a refurbish for $30
https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SurfBoard-SB6141-Certified-Refurbished/dp/B00OMDZAV0

New https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6141-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B00AJHDZSI/ref=sr_1_3

I would not go with a cable modem router combo due to a single point of failure (SPOF). You can get a router cheap too these days.

For the ham that also loves messing with computers:
RTL SDR dongle for $20

https://www.amazon.com/RTL-SDR-Blog-RTL2832U-Software-Defined/dp/B0129EBDS2

The "blog dongle" is going to be the best bang for your buck kind of thing. It's well built and stable.

I was with the /r/askreddit crowd.

I ended up getting this one. Same thing but without the antenna. It seemed like better option anyway, everything I read said that you should be building your own antenna or buying a better one anyway. It seems like fun to experiment with different antenna designs too.

You can always use MoCA adapters to get data anywhere you have a coax connection. I hear they can do from 300-700mb of throughput, but I opted to just run some ethernet around walls instead.

Depending on your needs though, would definitely look into getting data drops run to wherever your data goes. Could get pricey if you can't do it yourself, but if you're going to be going for the fastest speeds available from TDS it would absolutely be worth it in the long run.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078HMDDVS/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_LfNMDbAA8B2HY

I have this one. According to Tracktor I just lucked out when I got it for $60, it usually hovers around $85 apparently.

Edit: I forgot to mention this in my previous posts, but after your "introductory price" goes away, wait a month or two and call them up saying it's too expensive and that you'll have to cancel. They'll transfer you to someone and you can usually get another introductory price for a few more months.

I've had this since 2011, no issues.

Motorola SB6120 SURFboard DOCSIS 3.0 eXtreme Broadband Cable Modem https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001UI2FPE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_Yu.LwbQ1D2R0V

Here are the suggestions:

Motorola SB5101u if you just want to keep service and essentially tread water. This modem is old, but still supported. It won't take advantage of the newer DOCSIS 3.0/3.1 technologies, but neither will your Comcast service.

Motorola SB6121 or SB6141 will allow you to keep service, be supported for a longer time than the older SB5101, and take advantage of DOCSIS 3.0/3.1 technologies

Same Modem without the referral link

Motorla surfboard has been working well for me on comcast.

Welcome, /r/cordcutters! Dropping TV is really the best way to diminish the money and influence of corporate media, even if you're stuck paying your cable company because it's the only decent internet provider in your area. Whether or not you drop cable, you can save a further $8-10/mo by buying your own cable modem instead of renting from your ISP.

Excellent modems are just $50 or $70, or cheaper secondhand. I'd recommend retaining your return receipt long-term, as cable companies frequently continue charging for stuff you canceled/returned, and you'll want some evidence down-the-line to shut down their fraudulent fuckery.

Lists of Compatible Modems for Different ISPs: Comcast, TimeWarner Cable, Cox, Charter, MediaCom, Bright House

The following modems all have exceptional ratings:

• Motorola SB6141 ($69) (pretty future-proof, and necessary for speeds over 150Mbps)
  
• Motorola SB6183 ($99) (only necessary if you have top-tier speeds of 300Mbps+)
  
• Motorola SB6121 ($49) (fastest payback, and good enough for most plans)
  
  
  Any DOCSIS 3.0/3.1 modem will do, but I'd recommend against getting a combined modem/router (also called a "gateway"). Wireless standards get updated a lot more frequently than internet speeds, and if there's ever a problem with your internet, it's much easier to isolate the problem if you have separate devices.

I have had Comcast in bellingham for the last 3 years and have only had an outage or slowdowns twice. The first outage was out for about 5 hours when there was a windstorm and then just last week I believe when there was another. The downside reason for these is that we up here in bham do not have under the ground fiber in a lot of areas as they are on the power lines in most cases.

Now, I am not defending comcast, but I also used to do networking for companies and 90% of the time people were having slowdown issues (not service issues) was because they were using an old/really bad router/modem. What I would recommend is not using the modem and router that they give you (they give you a combo now), they are complete shit.

1. They have xfinity wifi which if a bunch of people connect to will slow your connection down a lot.
   
2. a router is just like a computer. I could turn the computer you are reading this on into a router if I wanted to.
   
   Now with this in mind slow downs are all about connections. Connections are the bane of shitty hardware routers. Let's say that every time you go to a website you make 1 connection. well if you have 200 people on your router that is 200 connections per website. But that isn't really the case. Every time you go to a website you are going to be making at least 5-8 different connections, because of all the ads and other things that have been coded into the website. so lets say you have 4 people on your router and that is now 32 connections. Well now lets say you have 8 different tabs open per 4 people with 8 connections per tab now you have 256 connections. For a bad router that is getting up there and add to the fact that it is probably the modem router combo. It is going to be even worse in its ability to handle connections. This is even worse if you have xfinity wifi as while it may not affect your "speed" like they say it will overwhelm the router. My friend had one in the UW area in seattle. It was incredibly slow and we upgraded the router/modem to ones that I had them buy and now they have no issues what so ever.
   
   If you want to have less issues with slow downs you really need your own router and modem. here is what I would recommend.
   
   Motorola SB6121
   
   http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SB6121-SURFboard-DOCSIS/dp/B004XC6GJ0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415128088&sr=8-1&keywords=motorola+modem
   
   D-link DIR-655
   
   http://www.amazon.com/D-Link-Wireless-Extreme-N-Gigabit-DIR-655/dp/B000LIFB7S/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&srs=2529294011&ie=UTF8&qid=1415128174&sr=1-1&keywords=d-link
   
   These are the best for the price and they get the job done better than everything else I have tried without getting into really expensive business hardware. That modem is rock solid. Also the benefit of owning your own is that it pays for itself. You don't have the 8$ equipment rental fee anymore.
   
   TL;DR buy that stuff I linked above and 90% of your issues will go away. I can handle over 800 different connections at once on that router. AND IT WILL SAVE YOU MONEY IN THE LONG RUN.

I have the Motorola SB6121 SURFboard DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem. There is a newer version SB6141. I am not sure what do you get with the newer version though.

They use DOCSIS 3.0. Here is a modem that would suit you very well:

http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-SB6121-SURFboard-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B004XC6GJ0/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1367523882&sr=1-1

Midco is very fast and reliable.

I'll suggest that you get them separate, mainly for two big reasons in my head:

1. As /u/wft_gamer pointed out below somewhere around here, combo units typically aren't as reliable (in my experience as well) and will lack features.
   
2. Separation allows you to only replace one of two devices, instead of one whole device in case. You'll want a reliable modem and a separate router also because you can replace just the router if you are so inclined to, such as when you're looking for some shiny new features, like 802.11ac or Gigabit Ethernet.
   
   I suggest getting the SB6121, which supports DOCSIS 3.0, something important that you'll need to keep in mind when purchasing modems so that you'll get the most bandwidth out of your connection. Then pick out a router that you like.
   
   If you are set on picking out a combined router/modem combo (again, not advised), here are key words you'll want to find (they're usually promoted somewhere on the box in big letters):
   
   

• DOCSIS (that's the cable modem standard)
  
• Wireless-N (That's a home router feature)
  
• 4-port (Router)
  
• Router/Modem (Okay, this one is sorta obvious.)
  

Do you currently rent a modem? If so, you can buy your own for $60.....you have probably 'bought' your current modem a dozen times over in rental fees.

There are benefits to a new modem if you are on a higher-speed package. That being said, the ones provided by Comcast now let you 'share' your connection with other Comcast users (which can be disabled, but it isn't well documented).
Comcast will eventually stop supporting Doscis 2.0 modems (which you likely have if you have not upgraded for a while), but you can simply buy one like this and be okay. http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SurfBoard-SB6121-DOCSIS/dp/B004XC6GJ0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426271479&sr=8-1&keywords=motorola+surfboard

Get a zoom, not this, surfboards have been hated for a few years now.

http://www.amazon.com/Zoom-DOCSIS-Cable-Modem-5341J/dp/B0063K4NN6

You'll want something with DOCSIS 3.0 and IPv6 support. It may also be advisable to search around to see if anything you find will work on Comcast- it can be a grey area sometimes.

That said, I haven't actually bought a modem on my own before. My suggestion would be the Motorola SB6120. I believe it's the successor to the almost ubiquitous SB5120. It is also future proof with DOCSIS 3.0 and IPv6 support.

As for compatibility with routers, it should work with anything. Keep in mind of course if you wish to use IPv6 you would need a router supporting IPv6 too- probably not something you'll have to worry about for a while, as Comcast hasn't fully rolled out IPv6 yet.

When buying your own modem, you will have to contact Comcast and give them the unique MAC address of the modem. This is so they can add it to your account and provision it.

Lastly, look around at different places for pricing. As an example, the SB6120 is $90 on Newegg, and $78 on Amazon.

[You can get them as cheap as $25 for used.]
(https://www.amazon.com/Motorola-SB6120-SURFboard-eXtreme-Broadband/dp/B001UI2FPE/ref=sr_1_26?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1467060997&sr=1-26&keywords=arris+docsis+3.0)

>stock comcast modem

There's your problem.

I've never known anyone who hasn't had tons of problems with their internet using a modem provided by their ISP. Grab one of these and stick with comcast. Not only will it pay for itself in about 6 months because you won't be paying comcast for the modem rental, but it'll also be yours to keep and use no matter which cable service provider you go with in the future.

I'm not who you were responding to, but I don't recall paying an installation fee when I got it set up. If I did it must have been negligible ($20?).

I'd recommend purchasing a modem if you go with Comcast. You can buy a new one for about $80 or you could try Craigslist and get one for less. It saves you $7 a month.

Motorola SB6120

I paid $37.96 last April for a used one at my old apartment (my former roommate still uses it), $35.95 back in August for a used one at my current apartment. Both have worked beautifully with no problems besides one or two isolated service farts. Currently priced at $31.60, basically four months worth of rental fees.

I would highly recommend staying away from them. They are honestly extremely unreliable and notoriously crappy. With that said, you can get separate boxes for around that price point.

$60 router (preloaded with dd-wrt): http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833162069

$66 docsis 3.0 modem: http://smile.amazon.com/Zoom-DOCSIS-Cable-Modem-5341J/dp/B0063K4NN6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1395010349&sr=8-2&keywords=zoom+modem

Or if you don't need 3.0, you can get:

$40 docsis 2.0 modem: http://smile.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SURFboard-SB5101U-DOCSIS/dp/B002M3SHXA

For the modems, make sure they are on the compatibility list for your ISP before buying. While ones not on their list will sometimes work... Sometimes they won't and your ISP will respond to any troubleshooting with "you need to buy a supported modem"

I suppose it depends on the service provider, but I've always used Motorola Surfboard modems with my Comcast service. I recently purchased this sb6121, but would probably just recommend saving the money and getting a basic one like this sb5101u.

I purchased the former with the hope of future proofing and maximum performance for gaming, but I doubt it will ever make a serious difference. My gain was 1mb as per www.speedtest.net over the one I had been renting. $7 savings a month, it will be paid off in ~1yr.

Got a suggestion? I have been using this one for three years and it has been rock-solid reliable for only $40.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002M3SHXA

You might need them to get you a new modem. Sometimes they give you old hardware if you didn't opt for a 30mbps+ package that uses a newer modem. My mom has a similar problem right now, she had 20mbps upgraded to 30mbps and they never upgraded her to a docsis 3 modem. Also I think you can get the correct modem for about $60 at Amazon and save on the modem subscription fee until Google Fibre rolls out for you.

Nooooo. The gateways are notoriously bad.

Go buy your own docsys 3 modem.

These are good safe bets:

http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SB6121-SURFboard-DOCSIS/dp/B004XC6GJ0/

http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SurfBoard-SB6141-DOCSIS/dp/B00AJHDZSI/

Buy your own wireless router + modem on amazon & save on the rental fees. I bought this modem and it works great. Six months renting is the same price as buying your own.

When I had their 15 meg service, my DOCSIS 2 modem worked well. They required me to upgrade when i switched to 30 meg service.

Be sure to buy your modem, though, if you plan on using it for longer than 6 months. Here's one like the one I have. The rental fees are a joke when considering the cost of owning outright.

Get the same kind of modem you would for any cable ISP and buy your modem and router separate (trust me)

List of cable modems on amazon as sorted by popularity

My recommendation for a modem is either a Motorola
6121 or a 5101 Both will easily last you 4 years with the 5101 being cheaper but using older technology that 1) Limits you to ~35mbps actual speed and 2) slightly worse connection quality in some scenarios.

---
This is probably a better question for a tech subreddit since there is probably nothing specific to Cox in IV that should influence what modem or router to buy.

A few months ago I got rid of my residential service and replaced it with an Internet only business service and I'm getting a little over 100 Mbps down and 20 Mbps up.

Even if you don't want to do that make sure you have a decent cable modem. The SB6121 is DOCSIS 3. You can check you own signal levels and logs easily. It gives you ammo when calling tech support. If you see T3 and T4 timeouts in your log, a tech should come out and check the cables.

http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SB6121-SURFboard-DOCSIS/dp/B004XC6GJ0

If you wanna save a little extra each month, and have some cash.. get one of these.. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XC6GJ0 ... since u are only around 90mbps it should have no problems keeping your max speed.

All you have to do is give them the MAC ID off the box and tell them you own it, and just have to return the rental box to them and if the rental fee is like mine u should save $10 a month.

Just buy your own and get rid of the monthly fee -

http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SB6121-SURFboard-DOCSIS/dp/B004XC6GJ0/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1414516582&sr=1-1&keywords=cable+modem

My isp blew my modem while I was at their offices complaining about their shit tier service. I know this because during the time that I was at their office my buddys were chatting on skype and my internet magically went out at the exact time that I was up there, it stayed out for a week because we didn't know what was wrong and it took them a week to actually show up to tell us we needed a new modem This was only a month old before it just suddenly stopped working. They tried to tell me that it wouldn't handle their 50mbps internet because he had no fucking clue what the hell he was talking about.

FiOS in Middletown. Don't bother with DSL if you can avoid it, Comcast or Cablevision will give you better speeds for the money. If you don't need a home phone, grab one of these modems so you don't have to pay the shitty rental fee.

I had a fantastic experience with Cablevision during my time with them, so if you can get their service go for it.

Option 1

Option 2

$70 Motorola SB6121 http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SB6121-SURFboard-DOCSIS/dp/B004XC6GJ0 (supports up to 170Mbps downstream)

$88 Motorola SB6141 http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SurfBoard-SB6141-DOCSIS/dp/B00AJHDZSI (supports up to 343Mbps downstream)

$420 - 1 year 30/5 cable Internet

$80 - Cable modem

$90 - 1 year Netflix gift certificate to myself

$100 - 1 year Hulu gift certificate to myself

$70 - Over the air antenna

$180 - Prepaid CallCentric

$46 - Cisco ATA for CallCentric

$986 for one year of high speed Internet, 1 year of Netflix, 1 year of Hulu, all the over the air HD broadcast stations, near unlimited telephone calls, and all the equipment needed to make it run. No monthly payments or bills for one year. Accessible from my smart phone, smart TV, and computer.

The Motorola SB modems are great! I can confirm they work for both Comcast and TWC. (Parents have comcast and a 6121, I have TWC and have used a 6141 and 6183). Here are a few links to them:

SB6121

SB6141

For routers I use an Asus RT68CU, but I have a lot going on in my apartment. You could get away using any name brand, cheaper one really.

Your primary options are Century Link for DSL and Cox or Comcast (depending on location) for Cable. Century Link offers slower speeds at a lower price point. Cox has higher speeds at a slightly higher price point. Both companies offer deals that will get you a discounted service for a while. For example, Cox is offering their Preferred plan for $20 a month for 6 months.

From personal experience and from what others have told me, Century Link can often times be difficult to work with, have unreliable speeds and spotty service. I haven't dealt with Comcast in Tucson yet, but from previous experiences they are alright. Right now I'm using Cox and their service has been very reliable and I don't have any real complaints. One thing I absolutely recommend if you go with Cox is to purchase a DOCSIS 3.0 modem (example). If you use a DOCSIS 2.0 modem chances are you will receive low speeds at most points of the day if you live in more populated areas of Tucson. DOCSIS 3.0 gets around this issue since it is capable of connecting to multiple downstreams instead of just one.

There really isn't a "best" since ISP's in general can be a pain to work with. If you want the best in terms of reliability (personal opinion here), speed and data cap I would pick Cox and pickup a DOCSIS 3.0 modem, just realize you will end up paying a bit more.

Yes.

1. Buy DOCSIS 3.0 if your cable company supports it
   
   
2. Buy one with a minimum of a 100Mbps ethernet port - 1Gbps is better.
   
   
3. You will lose connection a lot less frequently with a quality self-purchased modem (as long as the physical cable in your house isn't crap)
   
   
4. I have had phenomenal luck with Motorola Surfboard modems over the past 10 years or so (before that, back in the beginning of DOCSIS 2.0 days, Surfboards were absolute cack).
   
   This one right here is a beast:
   
   http://www.amazon.com/Arris-Motorola-SB6121-SURFboard-DOCSIS/dp/B004XC6GJ0

http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SB6121-SURFboard-DOCSIS/dp/B004XC6GJ0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373960370&sr=8-1&keywords=docsis+3.0+cable+modem

I was considering the SAME thing. this would do very well.

Yea it looks like there are other responses, but I'll mirror. A Docsis 3.0 modem if you buy one (link below) helps amazingly. I get consistent 25Mbps down and 4 Mbps up. When I had the modem they gave me it was very sporadic. Sometimes there are latency issues, but the speed is always spot on. Also if you are on wireless in Blacksburg, it sucks, radio interference and all from everyones wireless devices in apartment buildings, it kind of goes the way of cell phone signals on game day. Try plugging a ethernet cord straight into your router when its slow and see if that isn't the issue. If it is, there are ways to deal with that, but its always good to figure out if it truly is Comcast or not.

(http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-SB6121-SURFboard-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B004XC6GJ0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1347941339&sr=8-3&keywords=surfboard+6120)

It's really simple to just order the service online. I recently signed up for 50 mbps at $39.99 a month(I think it's called "Performance Internet"), did a home installation, and my speed tests are all showing me I'm getting about 60 mbps.
You can rent a modem/router through them for $10 a month, but I just bought this modem and this router instead and they started working without any problems right out of the box. Figured after 9 months I'll have saved money compared to renting, plus I get to keep them.

This time around I never even had to make a single phone call to Comcast, where as two years ago when I lived in Alabama I spent 8 hours on the phone with them to get stuff set up. It's hit or miss if you have a problem starting off, but once it's running it's usually very reliable.

When ours died, we bought this one http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SurfBoard-SB6121-DOCSIS/dp/B004XC6GJ0.

Setup was a breeze.

It could be several things, but if you have a shitty modem and/or a shitty router that could be the issue. I had the same problem when I was using the modem provided by my ISP. I bought my own and I haven't had a problem since.

Here is my modem and router:

Modem

Router

They might not be the best, but I wasn't looking for the best, I was looking for something reliable and affordable. Hope this helps.

I just did the same thing a few months ago; ditched Comcast cable services and kept my Comcast internet. I've rarely had issues with Comcast's internet service so I've been quite happy. I only pay $30 instead of $110! If you haven't purchased your own modem, I highly recommend this one. That way you have no more $7 a month rental fee for a Comcast modem.

For internet package, get the best internet-only you can afford (based on actual price and not some "deal" or "promo" pricing). If you do find a good deal/promo pricing, get a recording where a CSR tells you that you will be locked in at this price for X months. If they try to hike the price up on you, play back the recording. If you are out of the promo pricing period and they try to hike up prices even higher than non-promo pricing, you can threaten to leave but you don't really have any fallback if they just say OK and don't transfer you to retention. Based on all the terribad customer support on some ISPs, I'd just record any conversation you have with them.

Don't rent any hardware from them. Pick up this modem if needed, and any name brand router (remember you don't need a dual band router if you don't have any devices that can talk on the 5GHz band).

EDIT: More

Monoprice has good and cheap cables, but anything with high enough ratings will be fine. You'll need Cat5e Ethernet cabling if you want gigabit, but you really should be running 5e/6 even if you don't have gigabit NICs.

For router security, WPA2 on (WPA if no WPA2) with a non-dictionary password, WPS off. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES USE WEP.

You can see which devices are approved from this list.
http://mydeviceinfo.comcast.net/

This one is popular: http://amzn.com/B004XC6GJ0
There is a newer version with more downstream channels, but unless you have bought >172 Mbps internet, there will be no difference.

you really shouldnt go cheaper than this:

http://www.amazon.com/Zoom-DOCSIS-Cable-Modem-5341J/dp/B0063K4NN6/

you want to get a DOCSIS 3.0 modem, and its going to be tough to find one for $50. you might find some arris or motorola modems for a bit less on amazon, but if you buy an arris/motorola from amazon and its not a white model, it wont have a warranty. this is because arris/motorola does not sell to the public, they have to be purchased from the ISP. except for the white motorola models.

I've had good experience with Comcast's pricing, but I have heard of it being pretty silly in some places.

The price doesn't include the cost of the gear rental, which adds at least another $10 to the price. Thankfully you can buy a modem/router for pretty cheap. If there is only one computer, you can use a simple one or four-port modem and they cost about $50. I have this one, but I guess it isn't being made anymore. There are similar ones on Amazon for the price I paid for this one.

Also depending on where you live, there might be a state level aid program for Internet access.

Not the slightest difference for me yet. Using this DOCSIS 3.0 modem but not sure what I'm missing: http://www.amazon.com/Zoom-DOCSIS-Cable-Modem-5341J/dp/B0063K4NN6/ref=cm_cd_ql_qh_dp_t

Guess I'll try again tonight/tomorrow. Glad to hear most others are seeing improvements!

I decided to buy a Zoom 5341J modem. I'm tired of renting the POS that they gave me.

Here is a link for supported modems. Good luck!

Mediacom internet is just fine for me. Be sure to negotiate down your price. I was able to get a $45/mo for 1 year, $54 for second year with a 2-year contract for 15mbps speed.
Also, buy a modem so you don't have to pay $5/mo to rent theirs.
I've been with Mediacom for about 8 or 9 years...I used to despise them, but to be completely honest, I can actually tell they are trying to make strides with their customer service. I have gotten follow-up phone calls to make sure the issues I had were resolved, which has never happened in the past. It's the best ISP I can get for my needs - I sincerely have no problem with them.

The only telephony modems you'll find at retail are the Arris 822 or 862.

http://www.amazon.com/Arris-TM822G-Touchstone%C2%AE-Ultra-High-Telephony/dp/B00721TUNS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412540556&sr=8-1&keywords=arris+822

And yes they are over $200.

I bought this one for $60 two years ago and have had no issues with it at all.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00721TUNS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use an apple router with it.

Motorola SB6141. Its DOCSIS 3.0 and advertises it can handle 300mbps.

http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-SURFboard-SB6141-DOCSIS-High-Speed/dp/B007IMPMW4

Its on their list of approved devices.

Comcast is the only provider here that you can get any decent speeds with.. ATT has crappy service compared to comcast in most areas. You can get a decent connection for about $30 a month for the first year (50% discount your first year), and it goes up after to regular price. Some people I know have just called after the first year, and sometimes can get the discount renewed, so that's something to keep in mind, though I have not done it myself. I recommend buying your own router and modem, as the stuff comcast provides is trash.

Get something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Motorola-SURFboard-SB6141-DOCSIS-High-Speed/dp/B007IMPMW4

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-AC1750-Smart-Router/dp/B00BUSDVBQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1527283056&sr=1-1&keywords=archer+c7

Getting these will last you several years at a minimum (so long as you aren't worried about things like DDWRT/open WRT... if you don't know what the heck these are don't worry, for more enthusiast users) the modem/router I posted are like the best mid-range options. Comcast usually rents their equipment, and their equipment is... well... garbage, so please invest in your own hardware.

Hope this helps.

Their modem costs money, buy your own. Even a non-refurbished modem will pay off within two years. Grab a router too, but I won't even suggest one because your needs for size of the house, wireless bands available (B, G, N, AC....) are worth looking into. You just have to have them come and type in the mac address for setup, though you should be able to call it in.

They are all contractors too as /u/foufcfk mentioned. Perpetually understaffed, and underpaid.

Also, tech was probably just being a tool. Whatever line is coming in you can move yourself. Just grab a crimping set for coaxial cable and leave this all behind in your head.

First things first - the cable modem and the wifi router are two completely separate things. In your specific case, the two things are integrated in one device - but I highly recommend not doing so.

Comcast charges a ridiculous amount of money for the "modem rental". Are you renting your modem/router from Comcast? If so, I highly recommend buying your own cable modem and wifi router. You will recoup the cost in just a few months from the rental savings. I'm saying this from personal experience - after spending 3 times the cost of the modem for just the rental fees.

The cable modem is a device which connects to your Comcast cable and lets you connect your other home devices to the modem. Even the cheapest most basic DOCSIS3 modem will support speeds that far surpass the actual internet speed you will buy from Comcast - and these are super reliable devices - so just buy the cheapest.

For example, this Arris refurbished model is available for $30. Non refurbished is $50 - although refurbished is honestly just fine. Consider that I was paying 8 bucks a month for the modem rental while I could have bought my modem outright for 30 bucks.

Now for the wifi router. This is mostly the real reason why people complain of poor internet speeds. And often this is because of poor wifi coverage to begin with - i.e. the wifi signal is simply not strong enough in all your rooms. As someone else said, the best thing you can do is to place your wifi router high up and in a central location that has the best "line of sight" to most rooms. Typically a central passageway, mounted high up on the wall. You would connect to your cable modem with an ethernet cable, by the way.

In my case, upgrading to a better more powerful wifi router with 4 antennas (from 2) made a huge difference. From my experience, I can recommend this Asus model which has 4 antennas and costs $67. There are many other models you can research and buy. It has run non-stop for over a year without requiring a reboot or without any of the flakiness I had with my other router that would randomly shut down or reboot itself. Wirecutter recommends TPLink Archer C7 which also costs $70 and they say it has really good coverage. Avoid the more expensive "802.11 AC" routers. This AC technology is great but is honestly overkill for your needs, just as you don't need to buy some expensive cable modem.

By the way, you can also download an app on your phone that will tell you how good your wifi coverage is in different parts of your house or establishment. Just search for "wifi coverage" or "wifi analyzer" in your app store. As someone also said, there are some advanced tweaks you can do. See this article, if you are so inclined.

Lastly, besides your wifi signal coverage and strength and quality of wifi router, your internet connection itself needs to be reasonably fast to support multiple users. Nowadays, everyone is streaming videos and such on their smartphones so everyone "needs" high bandwidth or fast internet. And all these multiple videos streaming quickly eat up your internet connection's bandwidth. What is interesting is that there isn't that much of a price difference between the different Comcast options. Or to put it another way, there is no $40 or $50 option at all. 25mbps is quite low to be honest - at least when multiple people hammering away at your internet. It is not horrible or anything - in fact it is perfectly decent for average home use - it is just not blazingly fast. There is a $10 difference between 25mbps and 100mbps, and a $3 jump to 200mbps. So if you don't mind the extra $13, you are in serious blazing fast territory. Consider that Netflix takes about 3-10mbps, so you can imagine that 200mbps will give you a lot of room and speed even with multiple users logged in and streaming high quality video. Else, you can start with 25mbps after you make all the other improvements to your setup, see how it goes. Then you can easily upgrade to 200mbps if needed.

You can save an awful lot of money by not paying for your ISP to set up your Wifi. Buy your own Wifi router, configure it yourself, and only pay for Cox's internet.

Get your own Modem if you can, too.

For the modem, you might want to get something like this if you're paying for less than 300Mbp/s (and there is ZERO point in paying for more if you're only connecting wirelessly) or this if you're paying for gigabit and have hardwired ethernet devices.

For the router, if you're living in an apartment or small house where you only need one Wifi access point, something like this should work great, since it has an easy setup app available. If you're in a bigger space (e.g. multi-story or 3+ bedroom house), you might consider this or this, since both are designed for easy setup.

If you go with the 300Mbps plan from Cox, at $80 a month, even with the big space and $300 Mesh Wifi routers, you'd be saving money after six months. It's even faster if you only need a smaller space or are willing to drop to a slower internet speed (I seriously doubt you'll notice anything faster than 100Mbps, which is $60/mo, and if it's just 1-2 and you don't watch Netflix at 4k, even 30Mbps at $40/mo is likely sufficient). Likely, you'll still have to call Cox and complain to them every 12 months or so to get the "promotional" pricing... threaten to quit every time they try to raise your prices and the like.

Setting it all up will involve telling Cox you're putting in the new equipment, and returning the old equipment. I suggest doing this all in-store. If you call, they're likely to insist on a "professional installation" which gets crazy expensive, especially since they don't really need to go to your place to do anything... they just need to flip a switch on their backend (in the Cox offices) to accept the MAC address of your new modem instead of the old one... and if you already own your own modem, they don't even need to do that much (since you wouldn't need to switch it out).

Setting up your own Wifi isn't complicated. Plenty of tutorials all over Google if you need them. Cox charging to install wifi and modems is a scam based entirely on people not realizing how easy it can be.

Source: Being a Senior-Level Computer Networking Professional.

(Now, a Lady like me could do it cheaper / better than what I suggest here, but it would require a bit more expertise)

Do you use any service from them besides internet? I'd suggest replacing their gateway shit that they charge upwards of $10/mo with your own modem. I've used a Surfboard 6141 for a few years now without issue, but there might be better modems on the market now. I have 150/20 and the Surfboard has had no issues though.

As long as you only use internet, or internet and cable tv, most Docsis 3.0 modems should work fine. If you have phone service or home security, they might require that you use their gateway.

Two things.

1. Your router might be the problem, mine takes the "180 mbits/sec" I get and drops it to 80 mbits/sec.
   
2. If you haven't already, get yourself a decent Modem, like the Surfboard SB6141: https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6141-Certified-Cablevision/dp/B00YUU5628/
   
   Lastly, you can always extend your router's range by getting a repeater. You can turn almost all TP-link routers into range extenders (with nifty benefits) and they're quite inexpensive.
   
   How much speed is defined by your current internet plan?

As promised, here are my sourcing links:

​

• Antenna
  
• Coax
  
• Enclosure
  
• Filter
  
• LNA
  
• SDR
  
• PoE Splitter
  
• Mounting Clamps
  
• Cat6 Outdoor Cable
  
  ​
  
  The rest of it is pretty standard stuff, Raspberry pi, misc hardware from any local hardware store etc...

Just the standard RTL-SDR https://www.amazon.com/RTL-SDR-Blog-RTL2832U-Software-Defined/dp/B0129EBDS2/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=rtl-sdr&qid=1550504881&s=gateway&sr=8-4

This: https://www.amazon.com/SODIAL-Balun-One-Nine-Low-Cost/dp/B07KW2FYTL/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=rtl-sdr+9%3A1&qid=1550504898&s=gateway&sr=8-13

and a long wire. Just had to use direct sampling.

I'm not that much further along than you, so perhaps others will chime in and in that case I'll defer to their recommendations.

I'd start by buying a receive-only SDR "dongle" which will let you start playing with some of the software. They are repurposed DVB-T (European digital tv) tuners, and the better ones have some additional heatsinks and stuff to make them more frequency-stable.

I have this one, and have given a few similar ones to friends: https://smile.amazon.com/RTL-SDR-Blog-RTL2832U-Software-Defined/dp/B0129EBDS2/

The major limitation is actually the bottom end of its frequency range... if you want to use it to listen to HF, you need an upconverter. But you can add that later... there's a lot of stuff to listen to just in the FM broadcast band and up through VHF/UHF.

The software I'd start with is "Gqrx" and it's available for multiple platforms, just don't run it on an old beater PC because it's reasonably processor intensive. (Personally I would get a dedicated machine and run Linux on it, because once you get near the actual cutting edge of SDR development, where you'll be pulling random code from Github, that's where the interesting stuff is. Windows means you're going to be stuck waiting for someone to make you binaries or dealing with a toolchain that's different than most of the devs, so they're going to be less likely to be able to help you when you have an issue. Mac OS is seemingly okay but there are some things that are a pain to build.)

Anyway, Gqrx will let you poke around and see/hear what's going on in the spectrum around you. You'll be able to see all the FM and TV broadcast, pagers, cellphones, garage door openers, utility monitors, wireless thermostats, etc. Gqrx doesn't demodulate that many things natively, but you can see and hear them (put it into CW or SSB mode to listen, the digital modes sound very distinctive).

From there... there seem to be a couple of routes. One is to play around more on the software side. The heavy hitter for SDR software is GNURadio, almost all the other software is based on it in some way. It's got a fair learning curve to it, though—this is where I am presently. But it allows you to write modules to demodulate various signals, and if you are a programmer you could start contributing to the cutting edge by working on new modules (they're mostly written in C with glue code in Python, from what I can tell).

To start transmitting you'll need more hardware, because the cheap RTL-SDR dongles don't transmit (well, there are some hacks to make them transmit, but they're real hacks). I haven't settled on what device to get, and it feels like buying a PC in 1996—every few months there's something better/faster/cheaper. If I were going to buy one today I'd probably get a "HackRF One" (about $300) but mostly because I know a couple of guys in my local club who have them, and they seem to be pretty popular—but there are definitely cheaper options around, I'm just not sure how well-supported they are.

Beyond that... it really depends what you want to do. There's some really neat stuff going on right now where cybersecurity overlaps with radio stuff... GPS spoofing and anti-spoofing, for instance, is a big area of research (like you could probably put in 6 months of hard effort and be on the cutting edge of this stuff, I think, at least outside of the military labs). But within traditional amateur radio there's some really neat new digital modes that do slow data rate / low power comms, basically letting you send data over distances at crazy low power levels just barely above the noise floor. I think that stuff is cool—and it doesn't duplicate stuff that your cellphone does. Sky's the limit really.

For $20, the RTL-SDR Blog v3 stick is very good and has some features that matter in practice. Bias tee for LNAs if you end up needing to use one (needing a long antenna wire going outdoors is a common reason), aluminum enclosure, a good TCXO, and some ESD protection.

Aside from the actual SDR, the antenna will make a huge difference and you can do reasonably well without spending a lot of money for something fragile and non-portable.

You can get a kit that includes the RTLSDR v3 and a cheap looking but useful "rabbit ears" antenna (see important note below!). It's obviously not a great antenna, but I've used it for receiving NOAA weather satellite images, since you can arrange it as a V-dipole. It's also really lightweight and portable, and if you accidentally break or lose it, or if you leave it outside and it rusts, they sell them separately for a few bucks.

For a slightly more durable and capable, but still really cheap and portable antenna, take a look at the N9TAX Slim Jim. I've had one of those for years and love it, because it can be easily hung up outdoors and taken back down quickly. He makes a few variations, but the one in the link comes with a 10ft cable and SMA connector on the end, and has a built-in velcro wrap for coiling it up and storing/transporting it. It's designed for the 2m and 70cm ham bands, but for receiving with an SDR I've used that antenna on everything from commercial FM all the way up to 1090Mhz ADS-B.

(If you do get that rabbit ears antenna kit, make sure you open the little plastic housing on it and look for wires that might cause a short circuit between the 2 antenna elements. There should be a little resistor connecting them for ESD protection, but there should not be bare strands of wire shorting them directly.

That happened on mine every time the wire moved, and it severely harmed reception until I fixed it by snipping the stray wire strands off. It may also cause damage to the SDR if the bias tee gets activated while the antenna is directly connected and shorted like that, which is more likely than it sounds because the normal TV drivers for the SDR chipset in linux apparently turn on the bias tee by accident, not knowing that there's a bias tee circuit in there).

Are you using the wireless part of that combo? Their modem combo is your problem. What is the model number of your modem combo? Get this ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6190 and the NETGEAR Nighthawk and your troubles will end

Are you renting/leasing the router? For the cable internet setups, it's best to get a dedicated modem by itself and buy an external router. The AIO modem/router usually has compromises and not really upgradable if you want faster wifi speeds.

Since it's from 2010, I'd upgrade the setup completely with a new modem (depending on what your provider speeds are) and a router (TP Link Archer C9 because it's what I use and provides great wifi speeds when you have dual band devices).

https://mydeviceinfo.xfinity.com/

If the company is paying, and you just want the best:

https://www.amazon.com/Next-Generation-ARRIS-SURFboard-SB8200-DOCSIS/dp/B07DY16W2Z/

If the company is paying, but they don't want to spend more than is necessary:

https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6190-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B016PE1X5K/

We don't have need for huge download speeds so would this one be more appropriate for the time being?

We only have their 15 down right now which max gets us up to 25 or so but mostly is the advertised speed on a good day.

https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6190-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B016PE1X5K/ref=pd_cp_147_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B016PE1X5K&pd_rd_r=90f0ead3-6200-11e8-9ec4-81efd8363a7b&pd_rd_w=zyr6L&pd_rd_wg=Mb8Np&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=80460301815383741&pf_rd_r=SBSPJNF4QW76M64R8G1Q&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=SBSPJNF4QW76M64R8G1Q

You should buy the newer SB6190 instead. More future-proof.

I generally prefer the 6190 over the 6183: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B016PE1X5K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Any reason to prefer the 83 over the 90?

I swapped my modem for a Motorola Surfboard and got a Netgear router haven't had any issues with the setup.

Note that I pay for the fastest internet spectrum offers amd plan to upgrade to fiber when spectrums competitor in my area lays the lines so my setup is a tad overkill.

I have the Asus AC68U Router paired with an Arris 6190 Modem. Blazing speeds ready for Gigabit internet. I'm a network engineer, and this is what i use.

Edit: I also game with this Asus PCIe WiFi Adapter

I have a Cisco DCP 3008. It works fine for now.

As long as you have a DOCSIS 3.0 modem with at least 8x4 I'd hobble along with what you got until DOCSIS 3.1. At least that's my plan.

Edit: I see your modem only has 4 DS channels. You can hobble along with that (though you might not get full speeds) or pick up the cheapest 8x4 DOCSIS modem you can find (something like this)

Alternatively, you can go balls to the wall with DOCSIS 3.0 if you really want to.

> If you did have the two separate devices and the internet craps out, how would you identify whether the problem is with the router, the modem, or the ISP? And even then, either way isn't the end result the same (you're temporarily without internet service)?

Usually you can troubleshoot each one individually. For instance you can plug a computer straight into the modem and see if you have internet without the router in the mix. But yes, you are without service either way. However replacing the faulty piece is usually cheaper.

>Could you recommend any quality modems and routers that, with the costs added together, total less than $150? I've been looking at modems and routers and it looks like the "good ones" are over $100 each, while a "good" combo unit, like the Surfboard ones, are $100 or less. So I thought splitting the devices would be substantially more expensive.

Sure:

Modem: https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-DOCSIS-Speed-Cable-TC-7610-E/dp/B01CH8ZNJ0/

Router: https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-C7-Wireless-Gigabit/dp/B00BUSDVBQ

Just confirm the modem against Comcast's compatibility list based on whatever package you have. It will work regardless but they might get bitchy if you call for support and it's not on the list. Cheers!

I would skip the pi and go straight to an older laptop. You’ll need a Zwave stick too. I’m using this one: https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-CECOMINOD016164-HUSBZB-1-USB-Hub/dp/B01GJ826F8. Has Zwave and Zigbee radios.
Take a look at this guide for setting it up: https://youtu.be/ekVfLXnoM7k

You can get a combination Z-Wave/Ziggbee USB stick (currently sold out) that is supported by Home Assistant. You'll want to check for your specific bulbs though.

I use my Hue bridge for my Zigbee bulbs, since it doesn't require an Internet connection.

Yea. It's the Linear HUSBZB-1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJ826F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HfngzbSEKJX5W

Most of this stuff is pretty easy to search for:

• If you want to use the pi than I'd recommend hassio https://www.home-assistant.io/hassio/installation/ it should work fine for what you want to do
  
  
• To make it work with zwave you can use any of the sticks on this page https://www.home-assistant.io/docs/z-wave/controllers/ . If you want to do both zwave and zigbee you'll need to use something like this one https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-CECOMINOD016164-HUSBZB-1-USB-Hub/dp/B01GJ826F8
  
  
• If you want to control home assistant through homekit you can follow these instructions https://www.home-assistant.io/components/homekit/ , I don't know how well it works since I haven't used it before.
  
  
• For a thermostat you can use any zwave one. It doesn't need to be smart, because you'll just be controlling it from home assistant. For temp sensors, they don't have to pair with the thermostat, just use any zwave temp sensor. I use this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZIRV40K , it's not the prettiest but it works pretty well.

It was the husbzb-1 from amazon. You have to set it up on a PC or raspberry pi via homeassistant. It’s not incredibly complicated (their are plenty of guides) but it’s not plug and play by any means. The benefit of it is you can pretty much use any smart device and integrate it into HomeKit.

I originally got it for sengled BR30 bulbs just cause Phillips hue is so expensive in that size. $10 vs $25 a bulb.

They sell a zigbee/zwave usb stick.

The comments say:

> Using RPi gen1, Home Assistant, and OpenZWaveControlPanel:
>
> 1) Fresh, headless raspbian
>
> 2) Home assistant all in 1 installer
>
> 3) /etc/udev/rules.d/99-usb-serial.rules:
>
> SUBSYSTEM=="tty", ATTRS{interface}=="HubZ Z-Wave Com Port", SYMLINK+="zwave"
>
> SUBSYSTEM=="tty", ATTRS{interface}=="HubZ ZigBee Com Port", SYMLINK+="zigbee"
>
> 4) /home/homeassistant/.homeassistant/configuration.yaml:
>
> zwave:
>
> usb_path: /dev/zwave
>
> zigbee:
>
> device: /dev/zigbee

since no one actually answered your question... yes it's possible, yes its advisable and this was the stick i used to do it:

https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-CECOMINOD016164-HUSBZB-1-USB-Hub/dp/B01GJ826F8

This stick has zwave and zigbee radios in it.

I started with vera, moved to smart things, then to HA on a pi with a zwave stick, started missing my ONE single zigbee lightbulb and went to a dedicated server with the HUBZ-1 stick.

I don't like how much work i had to put into HA, but i love how well it works when you decide to stop dinking around with goofy useless automations and custom additions. dont go too far down the rabbit hole of home assistant... its really freaking powerful and you could spend a full time job on making it do everything it's capable of.

I don't use a "hub", I use a USB Z-Wave device paired with HomeSeer (home automation software running on a computer). While this isn't a hub in the sense of the word, it works much like one, but has a greater ability to expand.
This isn't the device I use, but this device works with both Z-Wave and Zigbee and may work for your needs (now and in the future):
https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-CECOMINOD016164-HUSBZB-1-USB-Hub/dp/B01GJ826F8

You will need automation software to run this device, HomeAssistant, HomeSeer, OpenHAB are a few of several options.

If you want a hub, buy a hub, I just want you to know about all the options.

This one

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GJ826F8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

A buddy of mine swears by this guy, I just bought one myself but haven't had a chance to get it up and running yet.

> Would you happen to reccomend a decent modem? I will report back with a Speedtest when i receive the box.

recommend a modem.. hmm.. how much do you want to spend?

right now I'd stay away from the SB6190 modem - there's an issue with the Comcast firmware and the chipset that modem uses (which is odd since I beta tested a Linksys CM3024 that uses the same Puma 6 chipset the 6190 uses and the thing ran flawless during the beta).

You could go with an Arris SB6183.. that's a 16x4 modem and will handle 300mbps no problem.. https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6183-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B00MA5U1FW

Now.. if you want to future proof and be ready for DOCSIS 3.1, you could go with the Netgear CM1000..

Here's another list of what Comcast recommends. http://mynewmodem.comcast.net/ Like I said, stay away from the SB6190 for now, and also I recommend NOT getting any of those combo modem+router devices, my personal preference is to have the modem and router separate devices.

You should be able to buy your own modem. Netgear is selling a "certified for Xfinity" DOCSIS3.1 modem on Amazon.

There are a few modems avaliable that are both Comcast compatible, and have gigabit throughput. Alternatively, you need to put that thing in bridge mode: just call their tech support and it will take a couple minutes tops.

https://mydeviceinfo.xfinity.com/device/netgear-cm1000-566

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-CM1000-Ultra-High-Speed-Cable/dp/B01I5TJGSE/

Cradlepoint, Mikrotik, and some others are probably great, but the Netgear units for $100-150 (link) are totally fine for casual home use: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-LTE-Modem-Broadband-Connection/dp/B01N5ASNTE/

With 3 bars of LTE they likely won't have any need for external antennas, but they have the option if that becomes necessary.

The BIG question to me is whether the Verizon plan is truly unlimited (often they say unlimited, but they throttle to almost nothing after a few dozen gigabytes), and if Verizon will allow it to be used in a modem?

If you have a plan with quota limits there is one potentially significant problem with using an LTE modem that broadcasts a wifi network; many devices assume that when they are connected to wifi there is no limit and they will automatically download large updates and default to using high bandwidth settings for streaming video, video chatting, etc. Some of that can be controlled in each devices' settings, but there's often still some surprises.

Im mobile and can't open the link. Is that this NETGEAR 4G LTE Modem – Instant Broadband Connection | Works with at&T and Alternate Carriers (LB1120) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5ASNTE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GrS.BbCSSJXMZ

Not op but I have a similar set-up. Running NETGEAR LB1120-100NAS 4G LTE Modem – Instant Broadband Connection (LB1120) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5ASNTE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_83MTAbHPJHB0B with dual wan on Ubiquiti USG

OK. Will do.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-LTE-Modem-Broadband-Connection/dp/B01N5ASNTE

any suggestions or thoughts on this?

You can buy your own modem but you'll need to get one that is docsis 3.1 compatible like this.

If you're looking to upgrade sooner rather than later, look for a DOCSIS 3.1 modem. The SB6183 tops out at 686mbps, according to the manual. I've got 400 down at home, so I haven't had a chance to max it out. Something like the Arris SURFboard SB8200 would work for 1Gb.

Hell, PM me your address, you can have mine. I just upgraded to business class and don't need it any longer. Worked great with Xfinity here in Tennessee.

Edit: pretty sure it's this one, but too lazy to go look right this second.

Where is the bottleneck? What are your speeds when hardwired? What are your speeds when using wireless? If hardwired speed is the problem, you want a better cable modem. Yours is only docsys 3.0, whereas I would suggest something docsys 3.1.

As for wireless, you really aren't going to be pulling 1 gb down unless you are using a 160 mhz channel with all ax equipment, are close to the router, and don't live in a congested area.

For example, I use this docsys 3.1 modem.
https://www.amazon.com/MOTOROLA-Approved-Comcast-Gigablast-MB8600/dp/B0723599RQ/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=gigabit+cable+modem&qid=1564506342&s=gateway&sr=8-6

Alongside a netgear rax80 router.

I use an 80 mhz channel outside of the congested part of the spectrum.
https://imgur.com/a/0idp7AB
And I get about 400 mbps over wifi.

Wired I do 940 mbps.

Do you have coaxial cable in your house? I highly recommend looking into a MoCa adapter if you do. I have a Motorola one set up in my house and I get almost no loss in speed or latency.

They cost about $65 each on Amazon, and you'll need at least two, one for the entry point and one for exit point

Otherwise, you can use a service called Speedify, which uses a VPN to share traffic between all your network interfaces. It's a bit hit and miss though, but it has a free trial if you want to test it out.

This works well. Full gig speeds. MOTOROLA MOCA Adapter for Ethernet Over Coax, 1,000 Mbps Bonded 2.0 MoCA (Model MM1000) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077Y3SQXR/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_OuuADbATVN0V0

yup.... finally MoCA is good.

just bought a 2 story house (no basement) so running between 1st and 2nd floor meant some serious drywall work (3 rooms upstairs and 2 downstairs needed wiring) .... OR, i could just use the existing coax.

https://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Adapter-Ethernet-Bonded-MM1000/dp/B077Y3SQXR/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1535939225&sr=1-2&keywords=moca&dpID=31V5B2UAu1L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

this bad boy hits 1Gbps and there currently is no reason to go higher than that as I don't have a 10G port on anything in my network.

I have bonded Moca and Eero Pros on ethernet backhaul throughout the house.

​

I used Holland brand moca splitters of various types on every cable split in the house.

I used Motorola bonded Moca adapters as they were significantly cheaper than their Actiontec counterparts, used to be $170 for a 2 pack. Since they've been out Actiontec was forced to lower their pricing.

I have gigabit speeds everywhere.

A pair of moca adapters would work.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B077Y3SQXR/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1521112914&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=moca+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=31V5B2UAu1L&ref=plSrch

Then you can either plug in straight from there or add an AP. Powerline adapters are an option but it's 50/50 if they'll work.

The SVG2482AC is a gateway (modem and router combo) with MTA capability for Comcast phone service. Do you subscribe to phone service? If not, you do not need nor want a device like that .

If you have a suitable router and just need a standard modem, get one off Comcast's approved list and add a standalone MoCA kit:

https://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Adapter-Ethernet-2-Pack-MM1002/dp/B078HMDDVS/

These bonded 2.0 adapters give close to gigabit. Ethernet is still better since it is true full duplex VS TDD(Time Division Duplex). As long as you do not mind the 3.5 ms latency introduced by Moca 2, best option after Ethernet.

You would need to get MoCA adapters.

Motorola MoCA Adapter for Ethernet Over Coax 2-Pack, 1,000 Mbps Bonded 2.0 MoCA (Model MM1002) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078HMDDVS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OKl0Cb1H4H2XB

I recently went with an Arris SB8200 modem, this is on Comcast’s supported list and since it’s DOCSIS 3.1 you should be good for a while. SB8200

yeah mesh is nothing more than a fancy wireless that provides better coverage but just like any wifi it is dependent on the structure of your home (ie walls , distance etc) so some have great coverage with mesh while others....well they do not.
I think you got it right. MOCA basically injects internet signal from your router into the coax. SO you need 1 poe filter to stop moca from broadcasting your internet through the coax outside the home to the whole neighborhood. you need 2 adapters one hooks up to the modem and router and lastly one adapter in the room where u have the other coax cable and u want internet. The amazon 2 pack adapter is perfect because it comes with a POE filter and its all u need .
Heres everything u need
https://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Adapter-Ethernet-2-Pack-MM1002/dp/B078HMDDVS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=moca+adapter+2+pack&qid=1554325788&s=electronics&sr=1-3

edit: you can also add several adapters where u have an unused coax. Also if you need both wifi and wireless you can get a unifi uap pro access point and hardwire it to the moca. Then have the second port on the access point going to your computer thus hardwiring it and also have wifi in that room from the access point. Thats how i have mine set up... just a thought if you need better wifi and a wired connection

...that makes it sound like a cabling (your in-wall stuff or the neighborhood infrastructure) issue. Or a username/password kind of thing, but I didn't think XFinity did PPPoE?

Also you replied elsewhere that you had to use their router in order to do full Gigabit speeds. Is that Fiber or DOCSIS 3.1? This guy should do it for coax connections, support for it is listed here.

My motorolas came with a filter each. Check the included accessories. It may be included. these are the ones I bought

If you want to stay in the same ecosystem, here’s my recommendation for Ubiquity. You may need more than 1 AP depending on the layout of the house, walls and placement.

Modem: ARRIS SURFboard Gigabit Docsis 3.1 Cable Modem, 10 Gbps Max Speed, Approved for Cox, Spectrum and Xfinity, (SB8200 Frustration Free) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DY16W2Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OdcqDbMF39946

Router: Unifi Security Gateway Pro 4-Port https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019PBEI5W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Switch for non PoE gear: Ubiquiti US-24 Unifi Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZBLO0U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7fcqDbNRQ3ZRH

Switch for PoE gear: Ubiquiti UniFi Switch 8 60W (US-8-60W) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MU3WUX1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MicqDbTHS34TA

Access Point(s): Ubiquiti Networks Unifi 802.11ac Dual-Radio PRO Access Point (UAP-AC-PRO-US) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRO512/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YhcqDb6EEP86C

Maybe that gateway doesn’t display the boot file on your end, I can’t remember and without one in front of me right now I can’t say for certain. This sounds like the wrong boot file though and that’s handled on the “backend” with what codes are on the account.

I’d suggest you contact support and have them tell you exactly what the boot file name is displayed to them. Have them ensure you’re coded for gigabit and not some other plan, when I switched service plans my coding was wrong and I was getting download speeds of 400Mbps while getting upload speeds of 40Mbps ... yeah, had to call to get that fixed.

For instance, my boot file is “d11_m_sb8200_gigabit_c01.cm”

That’s gigabit service on an Aris SB8200 cable modem, I don’t rent the equipment from Comcast because it costs $156 + tax every year to rent that gateway and that’s more than the price of the cable modem on Amazon right now ($150). Granted, you’ll need an additional wireless router to provide WiFi of course but with everything besides my cell phone being hard wired that’s accomplished with an AC wireless router I’ve got DD-WRT running on.

https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-Approved-SB8200-Frustration/dp/B07DY16W2Z

A wireless router is a router, switch, and AP combined into one device. When you go with separate devices, you need all three of those separately. The recommended Ubiquiti router is the UniFi Security Gateway. You'll also need a switch, you don't need a PoE one as the APs come with a PoE injector. You could get this basic one or this PoE one for example. Ubiquiti also makes switches, they're great but a lot more expensive and not really necessary.

For the APs, there are two good choices. If you don't have any devices that support more than two 5GHz streams and you don't have a gigabit connection, get the Lite. It's cheap, so get two and spread them out. If you have any devices that support 3-4 5GHz streams and/or you have a gigabit connection, get the NanoHD. The LR isn't really worth it, the longer range isn't very useful indoors, and your range is mostly limited by the range of your devices anyway.

As for the modem, the SB6190 has a bad chipset. Get the SB6183 if your ISP doesn't support DOCSIS 3.1, or the SB8200 if it does.

Download is a little slow tonight.
https://i.imgur.com/aQGckoV.png
If anyone is interested, I use this modem and router.

Yes, I use this exact setup for mine. Main puck is downstairs in the living room (where Frontier put our FiOS ONT) with a connection to the upstairs puck via MoCA adapter/coaxial cable. This is the adapter set that I use with no issues: Motorola MoCA Adapter Set

There's a good chance that the house was wired for cable TV so I'd recommend the MoCA option as well. These Motorola adapters work great.

Yeah they can get expensive. Usually its used by most to bring internet between floors and not to use an adapter in every room.

• https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200K02/dp/B013J7O3X0
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Adapter-Ethernet-2-Pack-MM1002/dp/B078HMDDVS

Going to depend on your budget. Personally I am a big fan of the Zoom 5341J cable modem - it gets overlooked often by the Motorola SB6141, but it has a ton of positive reviews and I have had one running with no downtime (except for power outages) for something like 3 years. I bought mine at Office Depot but Amazon has them too for $58.99.

Given that your connection is only 25mbps, you have a ton of reasonable options for the router. You could really spend as much or as little as you want. The TP-Link Archer series (C5, C7, and C9) are popular on here and start at $75 on Amazon. There are a boatload of cheaper routers that may or may not get the job done. If you're not covering a huge area, don't have a ton of devices, and don't need gigabit LAN, you could get by with something like the Asus RT-N12. In short, router suggestion will depend on budget and use case.

Any of the above will be much better than the Comcast-supplied combo.

It's always cheaper in the long run to buy your own than to rent a modem.

Speeds, no.

I have a Zoom and it's great. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0063K4NN6/ref=redir_mdp_mobile

Just be sure to get an 8x4 not a 4x4 modem. I linked to an 8x4.

https://www.amazon.com/Arris-Touchstone-TM822G-Ultra-High-Telephony/dp/B00721TUNS/ref=pd_sbs_147_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00721TUNS&pd_rd_r=X33HFKYYEJ549QWEAHG3&pd_rd_w=1lewj&pd_rd_wg=2IxLX&psc=1&refRID=X33HFKYYEJ549QWEAHG3

These are the ones Comcast use to rent out before they switched to their AIO Gateways. They're still DOCSIS 3.0 capable and are about $30 cheaper than the 802.11n gateways sold on Amazon that also support telephony.

EMTA is the device that allows you to get phone service though cable. Most Comcast EMTA also have a cable modem built in so you get your internet and telephone service through one device.

A DOCSIS 3.0 Cable modem EMTA can run upwards of $200+
http://www.amazon.com/Arris-TM822G-Touchstone%C2%AE-Ultra-High-Telephony/dp/B00721TUNS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412698284&sr=8-1&keywords=emta

Granted, if your parents don't have fast internet and don't plan on getting anything faster than 20Mbps, you can get a DOCSIS 2.0 emta for much less.
http://www.amazon.com/Arris-TM602G-ARRIS-Telephony-Modem/dp/B0039UWW54

The "telephony" modem is just a modem with RJ-11 FXS ports on it, that they then configure to be your phone line.

They're talking about something like this

I don't know if Comcast has a config file for this specific model, you may want to ask them what brand/model they use, that way they have the config file for it.

Many areas don't, if you want home phone you're pretty much stuck with the gateway.

You could bridge it and use your own router, but you'd still be stuck with the gateway.

In CSG markets you can add a modem but the system wont easily allow you to add an EMTA, I'm not sure about Comtrac or Vision systems.

Best to call up and speak with a supervisor to see if you can own your own emta, not only that but there's a lot of shady shit on ebay when you try to buy an EMTA. People selling their rented EMTAs and then when you get it Comcast will tell you it's bound to an account, it's a rental, and it needs to be returned.

If you go with a more reputable dealer, such as Amazon, you're looking at ~$180

Getting the modem with the phone line in it definitely increases the cost and lowers your selection. I'd suggest taking a look at Comcast's list of approved devices. Which ones you can use also depend on your internet speed. Most will require DOCSIS 3.0 and the telephony standards and are a bit more expensive. Learn more here

https://customer.xfinity.com/help-and-support/internet/list-of-approved-cable-modems/

In the end the $200 Xfinity branded one at Best Buy may not be a bad deal.
This one on Amazon would probably work, but check the approved list first. https://www.amazon.com/Arris-Touchstone-TM822G-Ultra-High-Telephony/dp/B00721TUNS

Arris Touchstone TM822G here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00721TUNS

Purchased December 10, 2014.

I'm about ready to buy a new modem, walk into Comcast with a video camera, open it in front of them, have them agree that this is my modem, and read off the serial number and my name and scan it into the system. So ridiculous that you'd have to jump through hoops for something like this.

> http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00721TUNS

We have phone and internet from Comcrap also. I bought my own modem to use for the internet (Surfboard 6141) and the one they provide is only used for voice. They are capable of provisioning separate modems for voice and data.

I don't know what plans they have in your area, but you can find screaming deals for their six-month promotional sign-ups if you look around.

I use Comcast HSI stand-alone with no cable. I pay for 20mbps down but I see 55mbps down and 10mbps up. I also purchased my own modem which is significantly faster than the one they supplied me with ( Motorola SB6141) so I don't have to pay the equipment rental fee.

Another thing you may want to look into is setting up QoS on your router so one device doesn't hog all the bandwidth.

I'd do separate modem and router...that way if one fails the other doesn't (and usually when they're separate they do their one function better.)

The SB6141 is the recommended modem these days. I personally have a CM820 provided by my cable company (included with my internet) and it seems to be reliable as well.

Asus has been making some good routers lately, though I personally use a Netgear R6100 and it works good as well.

They all suck equally in many aspects, but my preference Cox, TW, att. If you can buy a modem separately, like this one http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-SURFboard-SB6141-DOCSIS-High-Speed/dp/B007IMPMW4/ref=pd_cp_pc_2 for a good price, do it and you might get some more speed over the shitty refurbs they give you.

here is 39 on amazon https://www.amazon.com/SurfBoard-SB6141-DOCSIS-Certified-Refurbished/dp/B00OMDZAV0?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0 modem and get that router on newegg, contact your cable company to have modem activated instead of trheirs and return their rental. router you set yourself .

Get this modem, it's cheap and good https://www.amazon.com/SurfBoard-SB6141-DOCSIS-Certified-Refurbished/dp/B00OMDZAV0/

> Edit: I also I already plan on buying the Motorola SB6190, is that a bad choice?

Save yourself some money and grab one of these. No reason to waste money on a modem that's much faster than your service. It's so cheap you can always sell it and get something else if you need to upgrade.

So what you are renting is the modem which is that Optimum Arris 822. You can easilly buy this 6141 and stop paying them the $5-$10 a month to rent. Just call ahead or check your ISP website to see if they have a list of pre-approved or not.

The Airport Express is meant to be an express router. You may have the Airport Extreme but it is possible you are using that device as a router.

You're probably going to want to purchase a router with better range. Netgear is a popular consumer friendly option and a quick amazon or google should point you towards the one that fits your price range. A budget of $70+ would be preferable.

Don't do it. Get a modem and get a router. I'd get a cheap refurb modem as the standards are changing and prices will drop.

When the cable modem standard changes (or you change to an incompatible provider) you just unplug the router, plug it into the new device and everything is ready to go; all your devices have their password, all your guests and all the devices you forgot about still are connected.

You didn't mention speeds or carrier so it's hard to spec it for you. I have had several friends get this router and recommended it many times and had zero complaints. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IUDUJE0/

I'd just get a cheap refurb router from Amazon, Arris SB6141 (these were $30 but jumped up to $40 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OMDZAV0 ) or SB6183 (dropped to $45 https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6183-RB-Certified-Refurbished/dp/B01ERK1JLM )and plug it in. Look and see what devices your provider supports and the speeds they support (my 6141 is up to 343Mbps but some carriers only support it to 110Mbps, I've had this refurb for 3 years and it's running great).

Shit, I have an sb6121.

edit: looks like the upgrade is the sb 6141

>It's not inexpensive

yep, a little pricey, but if you live in an apartment building and know the neighbors, you could offer them wifi for a fraction of the price and pay for it. Coworker paid $10 a month to his neighbor.


> Although my routers range is crap



If you have the xfinity modem/router combo then ditch it. I had friend get a new Motorola SB6141 modem and a (refurbished) NetGear R6250. I recommend that combo to anyone of my friends who complain about their comcast and sway them by telling them they get charged $7-10 a month from CC to lease it. For about $150 you save $7-10 month and you have a way better setup. If you do drop the cable internet then you still have a very good router and can resell that modem on CL. So far, I have three friends who use this setup and have no problems.

The modem cost $80-90 depending on where you buy it. It was on sale for $50 on amazon for a refurb, but no longer is. From my understanding, the difference between the White and the Black Sb6141 is that the white one is retail and the black one is sold to companies who recirculate it.

The router is $75, but is refurbished. Most people frown on refurbs, but this is from amazon so

1. you can always return it with in the first 30 days if it fucks up
   
2. buy the 2 year plan for like $5 when you check out.
   
   I've purchased 3 refurbs myself and never had an issue with them.

Since you specifically mention streaming, I can't stress enough that you do NOT use the cable company's modem. They tend to be single channel crapola. Get a multi-channel modem off Amazon. I have comcast blast and use this one (8 DL channel/4 Up):

http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6141-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B00YUU5628?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

For me it has been great, minus modem issues.

If you are on 75mbps or below, do not buy the TC4350 (or do and read up how to diagnose said issues), it has chipset issues from Intel and is the only modem they sell.

If you plan on going faster you have no choice until they approve additional modems on their service with shaw lines.

Is the modem you will want with a texas instruments chipset.
https://www.amazon.ca/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6141-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B00YUU5628/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1551126538&sr=8-3&keywords=sb6141

Look for an Arris Surfboard - those run really well with Comcast.

If your contracted speed is less than 300Mbps, then this cheap one is all you need

This is what I use, the NooElec Ham it Up upconverter. Image from before assembled. Works great, I listen to HF every night.
http://imgur.com/a/WIIap

Apparently, though, this might be another option, apparently does HF without an up converter (though I'm dubious for some reason):

https://www.amazon.com/RTL-SDR-Blog-RTL2832U-Software-Defined/dp/B0129EBDS2/ref=sr_1_27?ie=UTF8&qid=1484715796&sr=8-27-spons&keywords=nooelec&psc=1

800mhz is usually trunked digital radio encoded using P25. Looking at the radio reference page for your county confirms that:

Roanoke City / Roanoke County (Project 25)

Virginia Statewide Agencies Radio System (STARS)



If you have time to tinker you can pull in and decode P25 with an RTL dongle, this will save you a couple hundred dollars. Depending on your technical ability this route will take anywhere from 6-40 hours of work to get to the point where you're listening to those frequencies.

OP25 is a great piece of software and the error correction code it has is amazing. You could probably pull in an intelligible signal using a coat hanger for an antenna. The only downside is that it can be rather difficult to get setup and decoding.


There's another project that I've used which is a lot easier to get running but more difficult to configure is SdrTrunk. This project will run in Windows, so you won't need to try to get it running in a VM or install linux on a machine to get it running; But I find the interface to be confusing and lacking features that OP25 has, like Skip and Lockout for channels that are overly chatty (automated fire calls, ambulance dispatch, etc.)

Hopefully this is enough to get you started, If you need clarity or more information just post.

Wait, so this one is enough for L Band HRPT and HRIT?

And for Op, if you live in the right place where you can recieve goes, you could look into it, but it is a big step up in complexity from APT.

Correct. You don't even need to know which frequency they're tuned in on specifically, you could look at the whole spectrum using a Software Defined Radio like an rtl-sdr or bladerf with an upconverter and then spot them in a waterfall like SDRTrunk, SDRTouch, HD-SDR, SDRSharp, etc etc.

Yup, you got it. There is also an option to just by the dongle if you don't need the antennas too.

edit: https://www.amazon.com/RTL-SDR-Blog-RTL2832U-Software-Defined/dp/B0129EBDS2/

Try this one
I have this SDR for my pi. It's only $20. You may also consider decoding ADS-B transmissions from aircrafts to have your pi show a radar-esque display.

OS is Raspian; Documentation can be found all over the place for installing.

Software used for tracking trunks in the Baltimore Co MD, Carroll Co MD, York PA area is called OP25

Method of configuration that I used can be found here (Big shout out to Johns tech blog) This guide is amazing.

https://www.hagensieker.com/wordpress/2018/07/17/op25-for-dummies/

8 Inch monitor can be found here https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FP2F9XY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The antenna used can be found here in which I retrofitted with a camera tripod

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075QCJM6S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

rtl-sdr dongle used can be found here

https://www.amazon.com/RTL-SDR-Blog-RTL2832U-Software-Defined/dp/B0129EBDS2/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=3RE7FZK09J0QX&keywords=rtl-sdr.com&qid=1558445253&s=electronics&sprefix=rtl-sdr%2Celectronics%2C124&sr=1-2-spons&psc=1

​

The case that I am using for this Raspberry Pi B+ can be found here

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G1LMFRG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The speaker that I wound up using and not in this pic is an Anker Soundcore boost, but I also use headphones when I take this to the office.

All radio system-specific information can be found at radioreference.com.

Getting the true control channel can be challenging sometimes as the db on radio reference is not always correct, at least for my area. Also, trial an error I was able to determine that the offset for my dongles is -1.

Ham radio associations like the ARRL probably have the best repository for beginners. A lot of the ham exam study guides and videos have good information for those wanting to learn about RF. I picked up some amateur radio books from the 60s at a local library book sale and they proved to be quite valuable guides.

Also, and I can't recommend this enough, pick up an RTL-SDR. For less than $30 and the cost of a diy antenna you can listen to literally anything from the LF to UHF range. Satellites? Old fucks on 2m? Air traffic? Garage door openers? ADS-B? You name it, SDR can do it.

This a good idea, if you have something creating a lot of nose. This should help you identify it.
This will also let you know if your radio is dead and is need of repair.
Here is a link to a srd dongle

RTL-SDR Blog R820T2 RTL2832U 1PPM TCXO SMA Software Defined Radio (Dongle Only) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0129EBDS2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2AxUDb29Y3JDC

I found the frequencies by scanning on the radio. It cycles through all the frequencies and stops whenever it finds something. You can set the steps that it scans by. Use CHIRP to set it up more easily, but I did it through the radio menu the first time.

RTL-SDR is a little receiver that you connect to your computer. It basically receives everything at the same time and gives you a visual representation of everything that comes in. You can record with it and decode some stuff that your baofeng cannot.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0129EBDS2

Your best case scenario would be to wire it into the same Google WiFi puck that is plugged into the modem. The second best scenario is if any of your two remote Wifi nodes were wired to the first, main node, then plugging your Xbox into one of those would mean your Xbox is basically wired directly to your modem.

As for anything else, it will depend on how good the wireless antennas are. However in my experience, I've found the wireless antennas on the Google WiFi pucks to be much better than any other common devices (phones, computer, consoles) for pretty obvious reasons.

So unless your Xbox One has amazing antennas that can beat a router, your second best option would be to plug you Xbox directly into one of the two remote nodes, which will basically be acting like a super WiFi antenna for your Xbox.

But, I'm a gamer too, and I feel your pain and also share you enthusiasm for trying to improve it. Here are some more general tips that can improve your internet even more 😁

1. Let's start FREE. When playing on your Xbox, open up the Google Wifi app and make your Xbox the "priority device" for an hour or two. Other people browsing the web or watching Netflix won't notice, as if their connection is a little spottier, nothing really changes. Netflix still has few minutes of buffering ahead, so if it drops for a split second or two, nothing happens. For gaming, you'll feel every one of those same drops as lag.
   
2. In the Google Wifi app settings, enable IPV6! Your ISP might not support it yet, but if not, nothing changes. If they do support it, awesome! Goodbye DNS issues, and hello speed improvements! I believe the Xbox One also supports IPV6, just check to see if it's also an optional setting or on by default. Sorry PS4 users, still IPV4 only :(
   
3. Another obvious one, but turn off every device you aren't using while gaming. Set any PC's in your house to download their automatic updates at a time you aren't gaming. Cut down on the number of cordless phones and other 2.4GHz devices in your house. Keep other device's cables away from the pucks and Ethernet cables. Just do other similar things in that same line of thought.
   
4. Move your pucks around. See if you can make improvements, the app can rate how strong the connection is. See if different places can achieve "Great" vs "Good" for strength. Try to avoid having a microwave between them. Try having them out in the open as possible, instead of behind a TV or inside a desk.
   
5. For every part of your setup that IS wired, such as from the modem to the first puck and your Xbox to any puck, upgrade to CAT7 Ethernet cable at the shortest length actually needed. (Before I go forward and people throw shade, yes CAT7 is probably overkill for most people, but we're talking about gaming, overkill is in). Here's a link my recommendation of a proven, low price CAT7.
   
6. OP has DSL, but for anyone that has Cable, same logic as last point, but for your Coax cables. Here is a quad shielded Coax cable. OP maybe see if there is such a thing as shielded phone line?
   
7. Another thing for cable users: BUY YOUR OWN MODEM! First off, it pretty much pays for itself as a lot of cable companies are charging you every month for renting your modem. For Comcast/Xfinity, buying your own modem instantly cuts $10 off your monthly bill, forever. Your modem pays for itself in less than a year. But besides the savings, how can it help gaming? Well, you can buy yourself a modem with a lot of "channels". Think of channels as number of water pipes coming into your house, but for internet signal. Right now your modem might have 4-8. If your neighbors are all using the internet too, they might get congested. If your modem supported 32 channels, your pull would be much more distributed and you might see a more consistent, less congested internet. Here is my personal recommended modem of choice but if that's too pricey, downgrade to the model that only has 16 channels, SB6183. OP, again I don't have DSL, but do some research to see if buying your own modem device can improve your connection, or at the least save you money if you are "renting" from your ISP.
   
   Hopefully that all helps you, and you can enjoy some lag-free gaming!

Arris SB6190 https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6190-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B016PE1X5K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469050446&sr=8-1&keywords=arris+cable+modem

I bought my own router and modem and get faster speeds because of it. I'm a heavy gamer so speed and stability across multiple devices is extremely important for me.

ARRIS SURFboard SB6190 DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem : https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6190-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B016PE1X5K/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1468824877&sr=1-1&keywords=ARRIS+SURFboard+SB6190+DOCSIS+3.0+Cable+Modem

Linksys AC2600 4 x 4 MU-MIMO Dual-Band Gigabit Router : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UVN21DK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also suggest investing in some good Cat6 cables much higher data transfer rates than the normal cat5 most people use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E5I7XC6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

May seem pricey to some people but this is something you will be using 24/7 for years so imo it's better to pay upfront for quality rather than go the cheap route and have nothing but issues. Also not renting equipment anymore pretty much makes them pay for themselves.

At my apartment, we dont use any of the cox equipment (Saving us $9 a month), and we have an Arris Surfboard serving as out modem. We use a TP Link C7 as our router. We dont have any problems. Now, we are paying for 400 mbps, so these models may be overkill. You can easily switch in the older models.

I have bounced between the two frequently and have found that cable speeds depends on how many people are hooked up to the box in either yours or your neighbors backyard. Comcast also did tend to go out quite a bit, but they usually are aware of the outage pretty fast and will send people out to repair. Moved to Richmond and decided to give AT&T's fiber a try. From what I found, you do get close to the advertised 1gbps at 940 down / 940 up. Probably a hardware limitation. HOWEVER, I believe AT&T throttles certain traffic such as Youtube for some reason. Can't even play some videos at 480p.

For gaming, try to avoid wireless since that introduces more latency than a wired connection.

Either way, with both companies, look at the fine print and what they are charging you. If you're going with Comcast, buy your own modem such as this, otherwise they will charge you a rental fee for a crappy modem. They also have a 1 TB data cap IIRC. With AT&T, check to see if they charge rental fees or not. I believe that AT&T forces you to use their gateway BUT doesn't charge a rental fee.

Those ciscos surfboards are the bomb. I have an Arris surfboard as well though. https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6190-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B016PE1X5K/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1466773813&sr=1-1&keywords=arris+3.1

Go big or go home amirite?

Edit: Corrected info that was pointed out to me

>So what you are saying is if i have a router that supports 802.11AC as well as a 16 channel modem i will experience no such bottleneck with connection?

I think most of the bottlenecks people in experience are due to one of those 2 factors. For example, in my apartment I can see 30+ other wifi networks but only 3 of them are on 5ghz (802.11N or 802.11AC.) That being said there are many different ways a bottleneck can occur on the public Internet most of them are beyond your control. What you can control is your cable modem and router.

>I do have a Netgear AC1750 Smart Wifi Router which does support 802.11AC. As far as the 16 channel modem, you said RCN supplies these now with the service?

The official line form RCN is they require you to rent their 3 in 1 gateway on their faster speed tiers. Unofficially many people are using their own (better) equipment. On paper the 3-1 gateway is a fine device but I found it to be sort of buggy. It also runs way hotter than I would prefer. I got sick of paying $7 / month for a buggy device. I switched to a SB6183 cable modem with Ubiquity AC pro access point both of which have been rock solid.

The specs on the netgear AC1750 seem awesome so I doubt you’ll have any issues with it. If you’re on a budget I pare it with a SB6183, you can find refurbs on ebay for around $60. If you want to through money at the situation get a SB6190. https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6190-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B016PE1X5K
Currently both devices will perform identical on RCN but it’s possible that the sb6190 will be better in the future as it supports up to 32 channels. Currently RCN deploys 16 channels in the Chicago area.

I'm a fan of the ASUS AC1750 and the ASUS AC1900 for general home use. If you want more bells and whistles like mesh capability, MU-MIMO, etc. You'll be paying a bit more money, but you can take a look at Orbi, Netgear and Google for mesh capabilities if you want to go that route.

Additionally, if you want to save some money in the long run, you can buy your own modem. ISPs generally (I'm not sure about Cable America) charge you between $8-$10 a month to use lease their modem. I'm assuming it is a cable modem with a coaxial cable coming in through the back? If it is, you can pick up one of these and install it. It pays itself off generally in 8 months.

These are much higher quality than what the ISP provides and all you have to do is shoot your provider a call and let them know you are setting up a new modem and would like to return theirs. All they need is the MAC address on the box!

I am using the Arris / Motorola Surfboard 6141 now, you can get them for $54.99 on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6141-Certified-Packaging/dp/B00AJHDZSI/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1499613249&sr=1-2&keywords=surfboard+modem

They have a newer model for $99 with a higher theoretical top speed, but I'm not sure if would have any effect for Bend Broadband: https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6190-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B016PE1X5K/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1499613249&sr=1-1&keywords=surfboard+modem

Not sure which model is at Costco

I would avoid modem / router combos. A separate router will have better WiFi reception and you won't need to replace your modem the next time a faster WiFi standard comes out.

What modem do you have? Even though a modem says it's capable of speeds of up to 343Mbps down, like the SB6141 (which is an 8x4 modem), TWC will only provision it for 100Mbps. You'll need at least a 16x4 modem (like the SB6183 or even the 32x8 SB6190 to utilize their 200/300 tiers. The reason for this is to cut down on node congestion.

If you really want to be prepared for gigabit service and want to spend the money on the modem now, buy this. If you want to save some money and be just fine for most normally priced service plans, buy this.

Question for most affordable options for modem and wireless router.

I've upgraded my internet service to 500mbps and my current modem and router can't provide the speed. The isp installer said the Sb6190 modem would work, he said it should have at least "32 x 8 modem channels." My area is getting Google fiber soon which I may be interested in. Any options that could handle both?

Arris Surfboard is what I use.

https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6190-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B016PE1X5K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498755031&sr=8-1&keywords=sb6190

Buy this modem. It's $99 on Amazon Prime delivered today. Supports up to 1.4Gbps throughput for the coming 1GoFiber service they will be offering in the fall.

Cheaper than renting. As to the business plan im curious why you didn't opt to go with the 300/100 plan instead? It's only $200 versus the $100, gives you more speed and its dedicated. On a residential plan you share your access with the neighborhood. On the business plan you do not.

Since I've had their service, my internet has crapped out at least 5 times and I just got their service maybe two months ago, so I went out and bought a new modem (from a list of supported modems on their site):

ARRIS SURFboard SB6190

This has excellent reviews; it's a shame though that they don't support DOCSIS 3.1 yet (heard they are working on it).

The router of choice I went with is: Ubiquiti EdgeRouter X x ER-X-SFP

and then I purchased this Wireless Access Point from Ubiquiti. High reviews, large coverage, and easy to setup/maintain.

All in all, for under $300 I feel good about my purchases and getting rid of this leased modem. I've always used ISP provided equipment, whether it be AT&T or Time Warner/Spectrum and it's been quite the headaches over the years and finally wanted to do something about it.

Not sure if any of this will help you out, but hopefully it does!

Do you use Comcast VOIP? If you do, I know that can be harder to switch. If you don't I'd look at getting one of the Arris Surboards. I've always been a fan of them and they've worked well for me. I'd probably recommend looking at the Arris 6190 You can usually find them through Amazon's Open Box Warehouse for slightly cheaper.

I'm a fan of it because it supports 32 downstream channels while I believe Comcast's Gateway only supports 8. Most Comcast locations around the country have access to between 16-24 channels which means that you have more pipes to get your Internet from compared to only having 4-8 channels.

Ha, that's totally fair!

I thought at first I could get away with buying The SB6190 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016PE1X5K), because it said it was valid for 1.4Gbps downstream, but I could barely get 250 down out of it. I really don't understand where that claim comes from or why it's full of shit, but I really didn't care to figure it out.

I looked at Comcast's site and they actually recommended the SB8200. It was pricey, but it fit the bill and works great. I bought it from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Next-Generation-ARRIS-SURFboard-SB8200-DOCSIS/dp/B01N6SKK1G/

I bought mine for $210, but now, it looks like with the $20 coupon on the listing, you could get it for as little as $169, quite the deal.

What was nice for me was because I was moving up from an older Comcast registered modem, all I had to do was plugin the modem, plug my laptop directly into the modem, sign into my Comcast account, and boom, it took care of registering everything for me. I didn't have to manually register the MAC on the modem.

It was surprisingly and suspiciously easy for a standard Comcast service experience, so might not be as smooth for you.

We have this modem and this router. We replaced lesser models of the same brands just this summer. They are on a shelf in the open in the center of our house on the first floor, not hidden in cabinetry or tucked away in a corner. We have an X-Box, a laptop for the grandchildren, a work laptop and an external hard drive connected to it via Cat 6 cable. Everything that can use 5 ghz uses that band, and everything else uses the 2.4 ghz band.

My laptop, which is on 2.4ghz, right now is blazing along at 49.95/mbps download and 14.41/mbps upload. What makes that even more lovely is that I'm the only one home. No one else is here even using any bandwidth. By this evening when the house is full of Netflix and YouTube users and such, I really don't even like to be online.

In addition to slow speed we have complete signal drops at least three times a week. Sometimes it will come back on its own but sometimes it doesn't cycle the modem and I have to manually reset everything. This isn't new to this modem. It used to happen with the modem before this one and the modem before that one and even back to the modem before that. The problem though, was 10x worse with the modem we had from Mediacom, which is what prompted us to buy our own.

Now, our house is quite old (built in 1899) but as there are a bajillion old houses in Des Moines and in Iowa in general, you would think that Mediacom would know by now if something in the construction of old houses interfered with wifi or cable or something of that nature.

All I know is that it's the same story over and over and over again. We have had Medicacom internet service since the very day it was offered and it has never lived up to the promise. We have had I don't know how many modems, computers, routers, phones, tablets and other devices that use the internet in that time.

Either this house is some kind of signal-jamming device or the speed is just not reaching us.

Get a modem than can handle as many downstream channels as possible.

SB6190

Try this

It's what I've got at home on Comcast's 200 so I know it works

Just picked up this one a couple months ago, it's been great so far https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B016PE1X5K/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You will want your own modem. You may have a $5/month charge for their modem. Or, if you have an older modem, it's probably free.

​

You can check Charter's approved modems I bought a ARRIS SURFboard that was approved by Charter and drastically improved speeds. You'll also want a wireless router, since the SURFboard doesn't have wireless capabilities. I got a Netgear Nighthawk that has been an excellent router for streaming to multiple TVs and gaming.

I have an Arris Surfboard SB6190 that I would sell. I am in Sterling Heights. I used it with both Comcast and WOW with no issues. I had 100 MBs service.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016PE1X5K/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yes, SB 6190

Buy your own. I recently upgraded my modem to this on Xfinity: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A1E6BA2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QB2yDbS1AQH0F

I also upgraded to a mesh router from TP-Link. Mesh routers are great for large homes or if you have your main router in a spot where it doesn't reach the rest of the house. I'm a big fan of TP-Link routers, in general.

You'll save a ton of money over the course of 2 years. Worthwhile investment.

Also, I have a Roku on each TV in the house. Premiere+, Ultra, and Stick. I have found the Stick to be very good for my needs. The Premiere+ and Ultra were on sale when I got them and are great but, honestly, if you are just using it for YouTube TV, the Stick it the best bang for the buck.

Good luck!

It has been a few days, so I thought I'd update on what I decided to do. :)

I decided to send the Arris SB6141 back to Amazon. Honestly, one of the things that pushed me to send it back was that the LEDs on that thing are so damn bright, which is a problem since I have the cable setup in my bedroom. :P

I ended up ordering a Motorola MB7420. This is a 16 channel modem and certified by TWC. It's a new model that just came out a few months ago, which could be a risky buy, but from what I'm reading, the internal hardware is similar to a Zoom 5370 which has been out a little longer and seems to have a good reputation.

The MB7420 arrived a few days ago. TWC activated it with no problem, and it has been performing perfectly with 16 channels connected. The great thing is that the LEDs are a lot less bright than the Arris SB modem. I'm very happy so far!

Also, thank you for the freeway lanes analogy. Since my town is getting the Maxx upgrade in a couple weeks, a lot of people I know around here have been talking about modem upgrades and such, and this analogy is a great way to talk about the technology.

i'd get the sb6183 not the sb6141=which is speed limited on twc.
https://twc-compatible-modems.com/
if you want something newer but still cheap, try the new zooms;
https://www.amazon.com//dp/B01A1E6BA2
video games are latency sensitive, so the more channels bound
the better. always buy a separate router, a suggestion like;
https://www.amazon.com//dp/B00KATWRIY
is more than adequate for a couple at home.

4. Yes, I have tried with and without the router and speeds are pretty much the same
   
5. No
   
6. No
   
   the router is a Motorola Surfboard SB4100 which is a docsis 1.0 modem. I already ordered a SB6120 that will be coming in the mail tomorrow.
   
   thx for your help

You want a DOCSIS 3 modem if you're going for something somewhat "future-proof", like others mentioned this is not really a bifl item. That said, I'm going on year seven for my Motorola Surfboard MB6120; not sure they get more bifl than that. I guess it's only fair that I mention all my expensive electronics are on power supplies to protect from surges and outages, that may (within reason) be a bigger factor than what brand / model you buy. I have Charter Communications, for what it's worth.

If you do want ddwrt or some other custom firmware, I have read the old blue boxy looking linksys modems are optimal for that.

Are you positive your modem can handle faster speeds? For example, this modem is only capable of 30/38mbps down/up.

It is actually possible. In NE Ohio with TWC, I generally achieve faster than my purchased speed. However, there are exceptions. When it's a peak traffic time the speed slows down a bit because we're all on a shared "pipe" of internet in my apartment complex - this is common for apartment complexes or portions of neighborhoods (a couple city blocks) to all utilize the same main wire going back to the central office. This wire has a finite amount of bandwidth, because it's only capable of going so fast. This is why you'll see your speeds drop.

I've also seen speed tests show inaccurate results from different servers.

This is my router. My wireless access point is a Trendnet TEW-818DRU where I've disabled all of the routery stuff and just use it to connect wireless devices to my network. To be honest, that's probably expensive overkill for you. Instead, I'd just pick one of these, as dd-wrt is a fully capable firmware that will let you do everything we've discussed here way better than the Comcast one would.

Aside from that, you just need a modem.

I have this modem (surfboard sb6121) which looks like it is DOCSIS 3? I know very little ab this equipment - but i see it in the title!

Any DOCSIS 3.0 modem will do for 50Mbps service. I have this one and it works just fine for me (different provider, same speeds) and I don't have any issues.

I currently use this router and I have not had any issues with it. I've tried a few firmwares with it when trying to do different things but eventually I flashed it back to stock.

It's strange. There's no right answer for "what router should I get?" there are so many options and every user is different. But for the question "what modem should I get?" there's basically one right answer: http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SB6121-SURFboard-DOCSIS/dp/B004XC6GJ0/

You can rent their modem for $7 a month or buy one of your own. I have this one. It's a decent modem, keeps up with the speeds and it's pretty popular for people who are trying to avoid the rental fee. Keep in mind you will need a wireless router also if you want wifi. A lot of the modems Comcast gives out with their service have built in wifi/modem combos.

Hi,

Ignore the folks telling you to buy a router that you can flash with Open-WRT, DD-WRT etc. That is almost never necessary and just causes additional headaches. Keep it simple.

Here's the cable modem you need for Comcast. This is a DOCSIS 3 modem so will support Comcast's fastest speeds that are available: http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SB6121-SURFboard-DOCSIS/dp/B004XC6GJ0/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1411672350&sr=1-1&keywords=motorola+surfboard

Here's a good wireless router that I use, never had any issues with it. Good range: http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Wireless-Router-N300-WNR2000/dp/B001AZP8EW/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1411672530&sr=1-1&keywords=wnr2000v3


This nice thing with this one is if you have a large enough space that you are trying to cover and this wireless router doesn't do it, you can always pick up another one, run a network cable between them, and turn on "Repeater" mode on the new one. This allows it to act as a cheap wireless repeater without interfering with the addressing that your first router is doing.

Most other wireless routers can do this as well if you know how to set it up manually, but this is a nice "idiot proof" method.

Let me know if you have any other questions. I just moved out of a Comcast area so am still very familiar with what their requirements are :) I'll actually be posting my own cable modem up for sale on Amazon soon!

I have the same, $40 a month with my modem at the promised speed. I've had Knology for years and WOW seems to be trying to improve some things where Knology did not.

A tech I talked to recommended this pricier modem: http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SB6121-SURFboard-DOCSIS/dp/B004XC6GJ0

Edit: Ack, meant to reply to never_comment...

I have comcast for internet now. I had fios.

25mbps is plenty! What they are saying is Year 1 you pay 40, year two you pay 55, year 3 you pay their normal rate. But year 3 you can switch service or renegotiate a rate. Note that year 3 the rate doesn't shift month to month, its a static rate. The $42.95-$66.95 thing means in some areas they charge $42.95 and in others they charge up to $66.95. It just depends where you live.

Here is the gotcha with comcast. They are known to screw you with the modem. Here is what you do: Buy a modem, like this from amazon. Save the reciept for as long as you have comcast. When the guy comes to install have him write on whatever reciept he gives you that customer supplied the modem, get him to sign or initial that if you can. Save that too. After that your bill will be exactly $40 for 1 year not a penny more, no hidden fees or federal taxes. Just watch the bill for a modem charge and fight them if they try it.

The only other thing with comcast is they try to call you to add some plus package which adds HBO and local channels. It will only appear $5 more. But it has tons of hidden charges and taxes. Just say no.

FIOS is the other option. With FIOS you typically can't get your own modem so you have to pay their extra fees. and FIOS internet only tends to cost more than comcast. Your only objective is to get the cheapest internet you can find that is fast enough for your streaming needs.

This is the correct answer. And this is important: Anyone who is renting their modem from Comcast is just throwing away money.

They're charging you $7/month to rent an inferior DIOCSIS 2 modem - when you could go buy a brand new 3.0 modem with better speeds for $50-65. If you shop around you can find them pretty cheap.

Here is a list of approved devices: http://mydeviceinfo.comcast.net/stage/

I got the Motorola SB6121 because it had all the little checkboxes and stars next to it. Amazon sells it for $67.99 here: http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-SB6121-SURFboard-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B004XC6GJ0

I just got the Motorola Surfboard SB6121, and it works fine (though I don't have Blast Plus). As far as I can tell Amazon has the cheapest price.

The motorola surfboard modem is fairly popular, I have one but it is a more expensive model than this.
Also, the asus RT-N66U router is fantastic and works like a dream for me.

I am sure with a little digging you can find them within your price range.

Cancel the tech appointment and order this modem.

Since getting rid of the shitty modem Comcast leased to me, I get consistent speeds of ~55mbps. When I used Comcast's router, it fluctuated like crazy. Best investment I've made in 2014. Also the installation process is very easy. It was just plug n play for me. Worst case scenario is having to call your ISP and give them the modem's serial number to authenticate. Should be easy to find a list of compatible modems for your ISP.

For a modem I use: Motorola SB6121

And for a router I use: DLink DIR 655

You can buy your own modem, if you'd like. If you'll use it for a least a year you probably break even versus the lease costs for the one they "gave" you.

The modem I have is an SB6141. I've had zero issues with it.

The SB6121 is a little cheaper and quite similar; it has a lower (but still high) speed cap.

The router I have is an Asus RT-N66U. It's 802.11N, not AC, but I've been happy with it. I don't have devices that support AC yet anyway.

i checked that modem, and it actually supports docsis 2. That being said, regardless of whether Comcast is moving your area to docsis 3.0 or not, i would say your trusty old modem is reaching end of life.

I would suggest calling them, and asking if they sent the notification because they're moving to docsis 3.0... if they are moving I'd say get a motorola surfboard http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SB6121-SURFboard-DOCSIS/dp/B004XC6GJ0/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1405542886&sr=1-1&keywords=motorola+surfboard+docsis+3.0 and see what happends from there.

If you are still not getting proper speeds, then you KNOW your modem is good, and you will have a better time harassing them, and perhaps there is an issue with the wiring to your house.

NOTE: it could also be the wiring IN your house.. to figure this out, I would try finding the cable (coax) connection that is closest to the comcast entry point of your house, and boot the modem up there and run a speed test. I've had this trouble before with comcast, and ended up needing to have my modem in a different room, because the signal was too weak at the original location.

I'm paying for the 50 Mbps internet from Comcast, and I've had no problems. When I do speed tests online, I generally score around 55 Mbps down.

One thing to look at is your modem. My brother had this problem where he was paying for the fast internet, but was using a DOCSIS 2 modem. To get the high speeds, you really need a DOCSIS 3 modem. It took him from around 8 Mbps to 50+. You can get them for around $60 (This is the one I use)

A DOCSIS 3 modem (the latest cable Internet standard) is a bit more expensive than $30, but not by much. Motorola's Surfboard modems, which are the standard if you're going to buy a modem yourself, is $70 on Amazon. You can get an older DOCSIS 2.0 modem for around $40. So yes, it will pay for itself in less a year if you buy it yourself instead of renting it from Time Warner.

Surfboard modem, they were on sale on Woot a couple days ago.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XC6GJ0/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Vr7zub08ER6B1

Yes, it's a great idea!

1. Yes, you sure can. Just make sure it's compatible with the new ISP. Generally any modem you pick up at a store (Best Buy, WalMart, Amazon, wherever) is gonna be compatible with the giant telecoms like Comcast, ATT, Cox, etc.
   
   
2. That depends on what package you're getting, but generally the Motorola modems are rock solid. The 6121 and 6141 are really highly regarded modems.
   
   
3. The main advantage is that you won't be paying a modem rental fee to your ISP (comcast is horrible about this). And what you mentioned about being able to take it with you when you move.

Get rid of it and buy a new router. Worse still, Verizon is likely still charging you for that router. You need to hand it back ASAP and make sure you get a receipt so you can dispute it when a year from now they say you never gave it back.

As for your setup, you need a DOCSIS 3.0 capable cable modem like this one. Any wireless router will work with it.

I just did a quick and dirty install of wired internet. I didn't really have a great option for a central location to set up my modem and router. What I ended up doing was keeping my router and modem in a bedroom I use as a home office.

I took each wall outlet for my coaxial cable and replaced them with ethernet/coax combo outlets to keep from needing to add extra outlet covers/boxes in the walls. The exception was at my router. I used a 4-port outlet like this in that room.

From there, I used my attic (and the help of my brother-in-law) to fish the ethernet cables down the walls in each room I wanted to wire (living room, master bedroom, guest bedroom), then each of those to the home office to connect to the 4-port outlet. Once I connected the outlets in each room, I labeled the ports in the office for convenience and plugged cables into the router for each room.

As far as the hardware, I have a Motorola DOCSIS 3.0 cable modem since I'm currently stuck with Comcast. I use a Netgear router with a USB port for connecting a hard drive.

My primary reason for setting all this up was to be able to access the full bandwidth of my internet connection and not need to be concerned with any wireless interference (granted, I probably wouldn't notice where I live). I also like the idea of minimal buffering with my home media server setup to multiple devices. I have a couple of gaming consoles and a PC all wired and I enjoy not dealing with wireless except on tablets, phones, or laptops.

This is the one to buy

Motorola/Arris Surfboard SB6121 for $60 right now on Amazon

I use this one, and it's one of the most popular choices available: http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SB6121-SURFboard-DOCSIS/dp/B004XC6GJ0/

http://i.imgur.com/Buspt6N.png

I currently own and use:

Motorola SB6121 SURFboard DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem - $69.99

ASUS RT-N66U Dual-Band Wireless-N900 Gigabit Router - $124.99

Someone was just saying that TWC actually restricts their channel speeds making it impossible to do without better modems. But here are three different levels.

4 channel http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SB6121-SURFboard-DOCSIS/dp/B004XC6GJ0

8 channel http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SurfBoard-SB6141-DOCSIS/dp/B00AJHDZSI

And there is a 16 channel now available good for up to 700 Mbps or a couple hundred if they are capping channels. http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SurfBoard-SB6183-DOCSIS/dp/B00MA5U1FW

Edit, some white space in there.

You do need a DOCSIS 3.0 modem to use the higher speeds. You DO NOT have to buy it or rent it from Suddenlink though.

I would suggest the Arris/Motorola SURFBoard 6121, it is what I use and it is a well reviewed device.

Amazon

Best Buy

Remember, this is only a cable modem and is not a wireless router, if you want wireless and want to connect more than one device, you will need to buy a wireless router. If you have a wireless router now, you could probably reuse it.

These are my suggestions, not a definitive guide.

This one will work. It sounds like you have a modem/router combo. In that case you'll either need to get a separate router or this

This is what I use. It works great, but there are also cheaper options.

dang! i was hoping it wasn't a promotion but oh well, still saving $180 on the year...

My only problem now is that I am doing the speed tests and not getting to 50mb...so i did some looking at the modem i bought back in april 2011 and it says it can only max at 38mbs! DAMMIT!!

Any recommendations on modems you can make? I was looking this one but shit $68 is cutting into my $180 savings for the year....blahh i guess i shouldn't be upset but it is lame...

what modem are you using?

Don't rent a modem. Get a dedicated router and modem. If you can afford it, go with the SB6121 and a better router.

I have a 6121 and it works perfectly. I also want to confirm the thing about getting Ultimate speeds with the Premier plan. I'm getting speeds of 70-100Mbps on the Premier plan with that modem. It rocks. Bought the modem on Amazon for about $90.

Newer Motorola Arris SURFboard's are probably the best modems out there. DOCSIS 3.0, compatible with pretty much every ISP (Comcast).

Link to Modem

I just bought this one. Though, after receiving it, I learned that they make a version that has a wireless router built in. But it's not cheap.

What part of Owens crossroads? I thought that area was really limited.

I use a docsis 3 modem that I got on amazon: DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XC6GJ0/ref=cm_sw_r_an_am_ap_am_us?ie=UTF8

I had drops in service as well, I was constantly on the support trying to figure the issue out. Essentially Comcast's equipment tends to shutdown/reboot for unknown reasons, maybe MTU overload, I don't known. The docsis 3 I got seems to have fixed my problem as well as given me a boost in speed.

Just buy a modem, its what I did. Even if you need a new modem in 2 years they turn a profit even if they paid full retail for the modem, its nothing more then a profit generator.

http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SB6121-SURFboard-DOCSIS/dp/B004XC6GJ0

I''m on UVerse so I'm forced to use their shitty gateway.

My friends haven't had any issues with Motorola Surfboards like this:
http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SB6121-SURFboard-DOCSIS/dp/B004XC6GJ0/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1375239091&sr=1-1&keywords=motorola+surfboard

(I'm assuming you already have a router as well for wireless.)

I have the most popular Motorola Docsis 3.0 modem (I think this http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SurfBoard-SB6121-DOCSIS/dp/B004XC6GJ0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427304629&sr=8-1&keywords=motorola+docsis+3.0)

Do NOT get comcast's shitty modem/router combo.

link to some cable modems. You want a Docsis 3.0 modem. Motorola surfboard are popular and compatible with comcast.

Amazon link to motorola surfboard 6121 which is on the comcast compatibility list.

this is comcast's list of compatible modems.

The META solution:

Buy a Motorola Surfboard, SB6121, SB6141, or SB6183 (in order, from least to most desirable) they are considered to be equally reliable, the only important difference is maximum supported speed. All three support speeds FASTER than you will be paying for. Source

Buy whatever Wireless Router meets your needs

Edit: More links

I don't know for sure, but I can tell you that I use this one. I have a separate wireless router to go with it, but the router doesn't matter. Any router should work, no matter which modem you have. You can even get a modem/router all in one, and save some money.

My recommendation would be to do some research and find a modem that you like, and then call TWC and ask if it will work for you.

Are you paying their equipment leasing fees? Or do you own your modem and/or DVR box? There are some upfront costs if you buy your own equipment, but it's cheaper in the long run. For instance, [Comcast compatible modem] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004XC6GJ0/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER) is only $70 bucks, and if you're paying $7/month to lease their modem, that's 10months for roi.

There are also DVR's that take a cablecard instead of using their cable boxes. I'd have to research current boxes, but I know Tivo units are compatible with a cablecard from comcast (although I'm not sure if you would still get showtime/hbo).

Personally, I haven't had cable for years, and only pay for internet and tivo service. As someone else mentioned, once you've gone a month or two without it, you really don't miss it. You can buy an indoor HDTV antenna for under $50 that'll pick up all the local channels, and if your tv is under 3-4 years old, it's got a tuner built in, free HDTV over the air (but no DVR).

I have a Tivo unit, that I bought a couple years ago and I pay $15/month for guide/dvr service, and I have that plugged into my antenna. $15 is much better than whatever cable companies are charging for basic channels and HD and DVR service. Their new boxes are pretty much the same thing as what I've got, and I personally think the interface is much better than cable DVR's. Granted, I only get locals, but I have Netflix, Hulu, Tivo and 45Mbs internet for under $90/month.

I also managed to get AT&T to match comcasts new pricing when they doubled their speeds recently. Check AT&T's prices, and see if they're any lower. Don't be afraid to tell comcast that AT&T is offering the same package for $xx cheaper a month, and ask them to price match. Unfortunately, if you're under contract, they're less likely to renegotiate with you, since they know you're locked to an early termination fee if you want to switch.

I have this modem: ARRIS / Motorola SB6121 SURFboard DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem

and this router: Linksys WRT54GL Wi-Fi Wireless-G Broadband Router with the firmware swapped out for Tomato.

The router shouldn't have anything to do with limiting the connection speed until that connection speed is amazing (i.e. never).

This is the cable modem I bought and it's worked flawlessly for me:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004XC6GJ0

If you do purchase your own modem I'd recommend getting one that is DOCSIS3. DOCSIS2 modems should still work but you may not get full upload/download speeds.

As for the VPN there are a few things to take into account. For example, the VPN I use allows me to use it simultaneously for 2 devices, however, 1 of those devices can be my home router so all devices in my home go through the single vpn connection and I still have that second device slot available to run my cellphone through.

Feel free to message me and I will try to offer more advice if you'd like.

I have a used docsis 3 modem that I'd be willing to part with for $35 (you come get it) or $40 (I come your way). I switched to fiber and don't have a use for it anymore. It works fine, but it is a modem-only (no built-in wifi).

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004XC6GJ0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You need a router and modem. Both very easy to set up, so don't hesitate if you aren't computer smart. Also i checked my bill, I pay $54.99 a month for 35mb down.

Probably the best consumer router I've had, and only $20:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001FWYGJS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421428309&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=41WEWk5LihL&ref=plSrch.

Two modem choices, I went for the more expensive one for no reason:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004XC6GJ0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421428404&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=51gOoiyk5oL&ref=plSrch

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AJHDZSI/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1421428404&sr=8-2&dpPl=1&dpID=51KZmqF1T1L&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

Where in the heck do you live? I know everywhere has either Comcast or RCN. Time to switch off of DSL. You'll never hear me rave about RCN, but the bandwidth will make you quickly forget about the occasional hiccups.

Regarding Comcast, although SpeedTest is a contrived test (I find MSDN to be a better real-world test), they at least deliver: http://www.speedtest.net/result/1890326814.png

If you go to cable, get a DOCSIS 3.0 modem. I recommend the Motorola Surfboard SB6121 (it's a 6120 in a different housing). I think Comcast still provisions them as 6120s, but it's one of the few that 3-stars their tests, and the 6-to-4 and IPv6 works great. Not sure what RCN supports, but if they support a 6120 or 6121, get a 6121. The modem pays for itself in a year by avoiding the ridiculous modem lease rate ($7/mo @ Comcast).

I got this on Amazon: Arris SURFboard. I got it for ~$70 but they just bumped the price to ~$90. Watch it and the price may dip again.

It is smaller and more reliable and I stopped paying the $10/mo rental fee.

Also, with Comcast you can save a small sum by purchasing your own modem.

Like New from Amazon Warehouse for $60

This one to be exact: ARRIS SB6121

I am in Mckinney, TX

Do you only have internet or combo phone as well? What speeds do you have or planning to have?

This list (http://mydeviceinfo.comcast.net/) gives you a ton of different usable modems. If you need telephone, pick one that says telephony like the TG862G.

I know the Costco near my house sells modems at ~$80, that's 8 months at current rental fee. They also sell top notch routers. The slight increase in cost is offset by the return policy.

If that does not apply to you. Lowest Doc 3.0 tier (semi-future proof) is http://amzn.com/B004XC6GJ0 at $70. Modems are up to you to get, that's a whole separate discussion of needs and wants.

Zoom 5341J http://www.amazon.com/Zoom-DOCSIS-Cable-Modem-5341J/dp/B0063K4NN6

Asus RT-N66U http://www.amazon.com/RT-N66U-Dual-Band-Wireless-N900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B006QB1RPY/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1412717175&sr=1-4&keywords=rt-ac68u

If you have a use for AC wireless, you can upgrade that Asus to the RT-AC68U or similar. I've had the Zoom modem on an APC for over a year, no reboots, no resets required. A very solid modem.

Saying DOCSIS 3.0 supports 1Gbps will probably end up being misleading to most people. Practically, it depends largely on other issues; primary among them the number bonded upstream and downstream channels.

DOCSIS 3 modems which support more than 8x4 (down/up) are only just now being released.

If you have something like:

http://www.amazon.com/Zoom-DOCSIS-Cable-Modem-5341J/dp/B0063K4NN6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418777025&sr=8-1&keywords=zoom+docsis+3.0

you'll be fine on the extreme tier here (quoted 150Mbps/20Mbps)

However, if we are lucky enough to get a ~300Mbps tier, you'll only be good-ish. I say good-ish, because at that point you'll want a 16x4:

http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SurfBoard-SB6183-DOCSIS/dp/B00MA5U1FW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418777243&sr=8-1&keywords=SB6183

Had a SB6141 at first, however there have been some really strange issues with that modem (take a look at: http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r29437035-Speed-Speed-Issues-with-SB1641) that affected mine as well. I would only get max about 1Mb/sec down with it.

I swapped it for a Zoom 5341J , and it has been rock solid for me. Native IPv6 works fine through it, and I max out my connection.

I purchased this for their 300mbit/s plan and it's working pretty well.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A1E6BA2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is the result
https://i.imgur.com/sHdjap6.jpg

with budget of $80.. You will be looking at used market.

This and this are typical inexpensive setup. People usually pay a little bit more for the both.

Will they be better? Possibly. Best use of money? Probably not.

Paying for 200Mbps, you don't need to spend that much on a modem. save some money and get an 8x4 like this instead, unless you're planning on upgrading your speed sometime soon.

As for the speedtest, are you doing it wired or wireless? that can definitely make a difference in your speed.

This is all you need https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CH8ZNJ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bjjfzbPKHCDPQ

This one is reasonably priced and highly rated. Yes, it's a slight overkill for your setup but it is likely to be supported by your ISP for many years. https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-343Mbps-Certified-Spectrum-TC-7610-E/dp/B01CH8ZNJ0

Check your ISP's list of supported modems to ensure it will work with them.

I don't recommend a combo modem/router. Reviews on them indicate they are troublesome.

give this one from tp-link a try.

This was $35 yesterday.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CH8ZNJ0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I got the following, it works great on Xfinity and is only $39.99. Haven't had much luck with surfboard modems myself. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CH8ZNJ0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CH8ZNJ0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$40. The rantal from Spectrum is $5/month. In your first year you are saving money.

I've set up router/modem combos for a family/friends and the one I like the most (and is the most cost effecient) is TP-Link router + TP-Link router.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BUSDVBQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (AC1750)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CH8ZNJ0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (TC-7610-E)

My connection is 100/5 mbps and I get about 120/6 mbps down with that setup.

Can't say what is "best" per say, but I use this one because it's inexpensive and I had prior versions that worked well for me also.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CH8ZNJ0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here you go!

My suggestion would be to install Home Assistant on one of the Raspberry Pis and buy one of the ZWave/Zigbee combo dongles, so you can connect your existing ZWave door sensors: https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-CECOMINOD016164-HUSBZB-1-USB-Hub/dp/B01GJ826F8/

Notifications? Home Assistant has plenty of ways to do that: https://www.home-assistant.io/components/#notifications

You don't say what kind of smart switches & dimmers you have, but if they're ZWave/Zigbee, that's nice & easy. If they're cheap wifi things, you're going to have to see if there's a component for them, or if you can flash Tasmota on them.

Use the computer for the cameras, since they'll require more power and it's a good idea to separate services (you don't want your lights, camera & media all being unavailable if the PSU on the computer goes out).

My personal recommendation for the cameras is Blue Iris, even though it's a paid program & only runs on Windows. Despite those "drawbacks", it's the most full-featured & easiest to use consumer NVR available; you want to turn cameras on/off/record based on input from Home Assistant? not a problem! You want to use motion alerts from Blue Iris to trigger automations in Home Assistant? Not a problem! You want to use the camera feed for facial recognition or reading license plates? It can do that, too!

For music control, I'm a big fan of Chromecast Audios (RIP) and Google Homes, since you can create speaker groups (All Speakers, Inside Speakers, Outside Speakers, etc.) and then cast to them from any program or app that supports it. I've found that the Google Home Mini is plenty loud enough in small rooms like bathrooms & closets, and the normal Google Home has pretty decent sound for it's size. There's also the Google Home Max, if you have a large area to cover.

You can also (somewhat) control Google Homes from Home Assistant, at least the point of being able to play/pause & adjust the volume: https://webworxshop.com/quick-project-lovelace-multi-room-audio-controller/?pk_campaign=reddit-hass

You could also install Linux on the computer, install Docker & Hass.io and use something like ZoneMinder or Blue Cherry DVR, which both run on Linux, for the cameras, but that's putting all your eggs in one basket, and would be a little more "involved".

I went with a Linear HUSBZB-1. One of the top reviews there even has some helpful instructions for setting it up with Home Assistant. The controller itself seems to work fine. Unfortunately, I'm having trouble getting the brightness control of my GE dimmers working correctly. On/off and fan controls work perfectly, so I'm guessing the problem is in Home Assistant or OpenZWave. So, YMMV depending on what you use it for.

Here is $38 - GoControl HUSBZB-1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJ826F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WXf7Cb3M7R2G3

This is the one I use and have a few others that use it. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJ826F8?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details

It’s a zigbee / Seaver’s stick. I run my through esxi pass through to an Ubuntu vm and have had no problems. Since the .91 update zigbee and zwave have been solid/much easier to manage in the interface.

Not a Deconz user but I use the Husbzb-1 stick w/ Pi-Hole addon in Hassio. Handles my zigbee and zwave devices great - if your open to alternatives that may work for you.

This USB stick does both Zigbee and Z-wave. Been using it with HASS for a couple months now, and it's worked great!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJ826F8

Most people use the Aotech Zwave dongle here: https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Z-Stick-Z-Wave-create-gateway/dp/B00X0AWA6E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537259191&sr=8-1&keywords=aotech+zstick&dpID=41%252BuCNE13iL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
You could also get a combination Zwave/Zigbee dongle for even less: https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-CECOMINOD016164-Linear-HUSBZB-1/dp/B01GJ826F8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537259245&sr=8-3&keywords=zigbee+dongle&dpID=41GzEBEgWSL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Alot of people start with Zwave or Zigbee controlled lights, but most people end up with Zwave switches instead, because humans need to also turn those devices on and off. The easiest Zwave switches/dimmers to acquire are the GE Line of Jasco switches, which are sold by https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Required-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1537259343&sr=8-2&keywords=ge+wave&dpID=51rDfQfpEAL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I use a Linear HUSBZB-1 connected to a Raspberry Pi 3. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJ826F8/

You're best served getting a 3- or 4-bulb starter kit that comes with a bridge.

Because the bulbs are basically Zigbee devices, you could use the bulbs without a bridge using a zigbee usb hub and Home Assistant's emulated bridge, but Google Home doesn't support it without a lot of extra work. You'll also lose the Hue app that makes manual control much easier.

I bought [this one](GoControl CECOMINOD016164 HUSBZB-1 USB Hub https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJ826F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5egTDb99SJWGA), the reviews were ok and it's cheap, will see what I get into tomorrow when it is delivered.

It's fairly simple


Combine this https://www.home-assistant.io (if your running on a pi you probably want hass.io) with one of these and your pretty much done.

Get this while you can.. US model.

Linear HUSBZB-1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJ826F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_t1M6AbD6CE073

Good start.
I made the switch from Smartthings to HA. For me, I absolutely loved WebCoRE and had a ton of pistons. In several rooms, I have smart bulbs controlled by smart switches so this takes a lot of automation that you want to be very instant (press button on wall > turn on light). With Smartthings there was delay due to cloud which is what made me move over to HA. Also a string of random cloud downtimes helped push me.

First off, stop trying to do any automations in HA itself. Do it all in Node-RED. Install Node-RED from the hass.io packages and then watch some youtube tutorials on how to get started. There's a learning curve as well and coming from someone who likes scripting in WebCoRE, I asked myself why I'd go with something as visual as Node-RED, but trust me it's extremely powerful once you get the hang of it. And your scripting ability will come into play in function nodes.

Move all your devices over to HA. Just get off Smartthings. You currently have 0 benefits of HA since you're still relying on ST and cloud. Regarding Z-Wave stick, I use a HUSBZB-1 stick. I'm very happy with it. It has both Z-wave and zigbee in one stick. I have just over 30 z-wave devices attached to it and never noticed any problems.

For Alexa, the Alexa Node-RED bridge made it extremely easy to control my devices with Alexa. There's an easier install than what's in the documentation on the website because you can just type the package name into Node-RED and click install. This seemed to be the easiest way to set up Alexa control for free. But it's probably not as feature filled as the HA Cloud method that relies on Nabu Casa ($5/month).

Yeah I would recommend z-wave and zigbee devices. You can pick up this USB Stick that works with both protocols and set up a Homeassistant server. The good news is home Assistant is open source and already has over 600 components. So you can use just about any device out there. Other options exist for this as well such as OpenHab and HomeSeer if you want to check those out. If you want to learn a little more about Homeassistant check out BRUH Automation on YouTube.

You can sell your aetco zwave dongle and buy the HUSBZB-1 -- it was in stock yesterday on Amazon, but out of stock today -- available from a third party seller right now for about $20 more then Amazon's price:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B01GJ826F8/ref=dp_olp_new_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=new

It will do ZWave and Zigbee natively

The Aeotec dongle is Z-Wave only. For Z-Wave plus Zigbee, try the GoControl USHBZB-1.

You won't be using SmartThings any more - you'll have to switch to HomeAssistant, OpenHAB, or other system that can run on your server. You'll have to pair all your devices with the new Z-Wave and Zigbee networks, recreate your automations, and re-establish any linkages between the server and external systems like Nest, Amazon, Logitech, etc.

The home automation load is minimal - your i5-9600 machine is many orders of magnitude beyond any possible load from this application.

I am giving +1 to the GoControl USHBZB-1 on dedicated computer. The other recommendation I have is that if you do go with Home assistant, I recommend the alternative home assistant software, here is the method of install that I used, instead of Hass.io. I messed around with both but I found that while Hass.io is the easier one to setup, it feels rather limited in many regards. Ultimately, the "alternative" home assistant meshed with me better. Also, the software has gotten a good bit easier to use in recent months.

​

I have also heard good things in regards to openhab but I don't actually have any experience with them.

​

EDIT: From my understanding, all zwave should work with all zwave devices. Zigbee has different protocols of zigbee which may not be able to communicate with each other if the devices are from different protocols. Supposedly zigbee 3.0 fixes that but who knows.

https://amzn.com/B01GJ826F8

Straight connection with CAT6 from the modem to my computer.
No apartment, live in a house.
The modem is owned by me it's a Netgear CM1000 that is approved for Gigabit service using DOCSIS 3.1.

This is the one that i bought
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-CM1000-Ultra-High-Speed-Cable/dp/B01I5TJGSE/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1483936878&sr=1-1&keywords=CM1000

How tech savy are you?

But consider this - $8/mo for 12 months is 96.

A good reliable DOCSIS 3.1 modem (only modem, not router) is $170 on amazon today. That's less than 2 years and modems tend to live a long time unless you have lots of lightening.

Now lets add a router - we'll get fancy and do EdgeRouter & Unifi Wifi Access Point.

Edgerouter is $60, and a UniFi AP that will cover MOST households better than a Linksys is 100.

So you spent $330 up front for a REALLY good system. If it lasts you 4.78 years you broke even. Mine has lasted me 2 years already thru mulitple storms in the gulf coast. Well, teh modem isn't that old b/c I had a non gigabit for a while as we didn't have that option.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-download-Spectrum-Compatible-Gig-Speed/dp/B01I5TJGSE/ref=asc_df_B01I5TJGSE
Get yourself a good modem! What you want is a DOCSIS modem that uses a TON of channels. The reason behind this is; every channel represents a possible increase in bandwidth. You share your bandwidth with everyone around you, and the more channels you have, the more possible pipes you can use if one becomes congested.
IE: Peak times, everybody and their mother is watching Netflix. You only have room for 1% of your allowed speed on every channel you have. If you have 32, channels, you're getting 32% of your allowed speed instead of 16%.

This is a bit over-exaggerated, as Comcast will have checks in place to make sure things never get quite this congested, but the principle remains the same.
Also invest in a good router (Modem and Router often aren't the same...) - I personally like to separate the two because even though it represents a higher up-front cost, a good router often does not make a good modem, and vice versa. Plus, if you ever go off Comcast and back to Fiber, you can sell the modem on ebay and keep the router for your next ISP. I personally like NetGear's Nighthawk line.

​

TL;DR: Buy a high channel number DOCSIS 3 modem, and a separate router that does WiFi. Am network engineer. Do this stuff full time.

From mydeviceinfo.xfinity.com I see these devices are compatible with 1000 Mbps service:

Arris SB8200

Motorola MB8600

Netgear CM1000

• Ooma Telo, VOIP provider, $40.
  
  This thing is pretty cool, I highly suggest it. Like $5/month for your telephone.
  
  
• NETGEAR CM1000 Modem
  
  $140 OBO
  
  Has some sticky residue on side from a Velcro sticker and the base is detached (lost the small screw) but have the base.
  
  This modem is approved for usage by Cox up to their gigablast tier.
  
  https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Gigabit-download-Compatible-Gig-Speed/dp/B01I5TJGSE
  
  https://www.cox.com/residential/support/cox-certified-cable-modems.html
  

I'd recommend going with a DOCSIS 3.1 modem to get the most time from your investment. See https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-CM1000-Ultra-High-Speed-Cable/dp/B01I5TJGSE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481847060&sr=8-1&keywords=netgear+cm1000

If you can swing it, I'd put in for this beaut. You're Welcome.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Gigabit-download-Compatible-Gig-Speed/dp/B01I5TJGSE

This is on amazon uk so you may need to look at Amazon us

I use this one and haven't had any issues:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I5TJGSE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

NETGEAR DOCSIS 3.1 Gigabit Cable Modem. Max download speeds of 6.0 Gbps, For XFINITY by Comcast and Cox. Compatible with Gig-Speed from Xfinity (CM1000)

Maybe a better way? - Start a prepaid month to month service with a carrier that will allow BYOD (Bring Your Own Device). Most carriers (except Verizon, not sure about AT&T proper) allow that. Pick a carrier that has good coverage where you live. In my area all but Sprint's signal is good.

Purchase a BLU R1 HD Cell Phone and put your new SIM in it. turn on the hotspot feature. Be warned the Blu phone has possible Chinese snooping issues. However it will never be pwned by any carrier.

Or use a NETGEAR 4G LTE Modem – Instant Broadband Connection (LB1120). I don't know for sure if it honors the carrier's "don't provide hotspot capabilities", but I would guess that it doesn't.

There is a little risk in each of these ideas, if it doesn't work you can return those items and cancel the "new" cellphone plan, you won't be out much money.

I use this NETGEAR 4G LTE Modem with an unlimited data only SIM from ATT for 35$/mo. I have it connected to my ASUS RT-AC68U router. Works pretty well and haven't been without service yet. It has two external antenna ports on the back of the modem. I have yet to put up big antennas to boost signal.

This is why I'm afraid to try it. I could cancel my Comcast home Internet and save $30/month using the SIM in a home cellular modem like this one, but I don't really think AT&T will allow this to continue forever.

My coworker has been doing it for about 2 months without issue, but the question is if it is enough of an problem for AT&T to do anything about.

From what I'm reading, you can sign up for one of those Mobley plans and get a router such as this and use it to get online:
https://smile.amazon.com/NETGEAR-LTE-Modem-Broadband-Connection/dp/B01N5ASNTE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496822512&sr=8-1&keywords=netgear+lte

Ironically, that router also works with TMobile and I got faster LTE speeds in Elmira from them than I did AT&T and Verizon. So this might end up being my solution...

Forget the MiFi. Get one of these, pop the SIM card out of the MiFi and put it in that thing. Hook it up to your router. Not only will that not fail so often but it's easy to reboot with a power cycle.

Then get something like this and have it ping google.com. Set it up so if no pings work for 5 minutes straight (IE, more than it takes your router and the Netgear modem to boot up) it'll reboot the modem and router. You can also set it to auto reboot every night at midnight or something.

Even if you were willing to use today's cell service for your primary internet at home, you wouldn't do it by literally buying multiple phones and using them as access points. That's crazy inefficient and expensive. You can just buy an LTE modem and put a SIM card in it, then connect it to a home network with proper APs. Or buy the modem/router combo version of that unit and use it like a normal home router.

But it's still probably not the most cost effective way of providing whole-house internet.

EDIT: I thought there was a modem/router combo version. There's not. Still need your own router/APs.

We don't have MPLS, DMVPN or VOIP. Is the Cisco overkill? Was checking out the Netgear that I can plug direct into the WAN on the existing router:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N5ASNTE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Next-Generation ARRIS Surfboard SB8200 DOCSIS 3.1 Cable Modem - Retail Packaging- White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6SKK1G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Zp7ZBbTMMTSDS

https://mikrotik.com/product/crs112_8p_4s_in

3x https://mikrotik.com/product/cap_ac

Make sure you match the modem to what speed plan you have. If your ISP doesn't offer faster speeds, there is no point in getting a more expensive modem.


Less than 343Mbps - https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6141-Certified-Packaging/dp/B00AJHDZSI/

Less than 686Mbps - https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6183-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B00MA5U1FW

1Gbps - https://www.amazon.com/Next-Generation-ARRIS-SURFboard-SB8200-DOCSIS/dp/B01N6SKK1G

Stay away from SB6190. If you want future proof then go all the way to DOCSIS 3.1 using the SB8200.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6SKK1G

I'm not sure what your budget for this equipment is as DOCSIS 3.1 equipment seems a bit pricey at the moment.

But I've used the older Docsis 3.0 version of this modem since 2014 with COX. I've had to reboot it all of maybe 4 times over the years. Mine was Motorola Branded but it looks like the exact same modem with a new label and updated hardware.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6SKK1G/

I recently installed one of the higher Netgear nighthawk routers in a small business that wanted to expand their wi-fi in the building. I can't find the exact model I installed but I'm fairly certain it was this router. This thing was nuts, the 2.4 GHz band punched through 3 floors and went way out to their parking lot. 5GHz band didn't go quite as far (as expected) but was crazy fast when I was in a reasonable distance to it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0192911RA

Self installation of this equipment is super easy.

1. Unplug the Coax from your existing modem.
   
2. Plug in the Coax to your new modem and connect a laptop or desktop pc to the ethernet port with a short cable.
   
3. Call Cox support and tell them you want to activate your own modem. Read them the MAC address and any other information off of the new modem, it is located on a sticker on the modem itself as well as may be on some paperwork that comes in the box.
   
4. They'll activate it and then ask you to confirm internet works on your attached computer.
   
5. Once that is all set you can hang up with them, unplug your laptop and plug that ethernet cable into the yellow port on the router.
   
6. Then it looks like Netgear has some handy app to set these things up, I usually do it myself in the web config but the app will work fine even if you've never set up a router before.
   
7. Once you are done, confirm your new wifi works and test the range. Remember that 2.4 reaches farther but is slower. 5 is faster but does not reach as far.
   
8. If everything works as expected for a few days or so, find the closest COX store and return your equipment in person, making sure to get a receipt claiming you returned your equipment so you have proof to contest if they keep charging you a rental fee.

For comcast gigabit you'll be needing a DOCSIS 3.1 capable modem such as the Arris SB8200.

For a router, for all in ones you can look at the typical Netgear R7000 or the Asus AC1900 if you want to keep it simple.

If you want something super reliable then...

Edgerouter X

or

Edgerouter Lite

or

Unifi Security Gateway

• 
  
  Ubiquiti AC Lite
  
  or
  
  Ubiquiti AC Pro
  
  (also wire in as many things as possible with quality Cat5e/6/6a cables)

Kable Towns CS is okay if you know how to work the system, they are working on unifying in one large call center in AZ to improve. X1 is pretty good, just avoid any of the non XG2, XG1, or Xi4 boxes if they are still out there (I'm looking at you rng150n)

Only issue with any cable company is if they oversubscribe their lines, which comcast often does. This means as more people use the node you are on you get drop in speeds (5-10pm)

Verizon: Depending on where you live you can do VZ Fios for internet and Layer 3 for TV on top of it, if you don't need live sports Hulu/Netflix/HBO Go are better options then any tv service

DirectTV Agree with above

Note on Modems: The current modem standard is Docsis 3.0 but 3.1 will roll out in the next few years. Right now Docsis 3.1 modems are 2x the price of a 3.0 modem, get the 3.1 as it is more future proof and will save money in the long run

Renting modem? $8 a month

Buying a docsis 3.0 now ~$80 + a 3.1 later ~$80-$100

Buying a docsis 3.1 now $190 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6SKK1G

The surfboards will always be on the approved list and when 3.1 launches in your market you will get the speed bump instantly

Looks like Comcast will launch their 3.1 offering in DC in the near term, hello gigabit over copper

Verzion

https://www.amazon.com/Motorola-MB8600-Approved-Comcast-Xfinity/dp/B0723599RQ

or

https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6183-Docsis-Packaging/dp/B00MA5U1FW

The cheaper one is fine if you have 100mbps or lower speed, but it should be noted that it not future proof.

If you test and find out the coax is all connected with no issues and need gigabit connections Amazon has a Motorola Bonded 2.0 MoCA adapter. They're the cheapest gigabit adapters I found when I was originally looking. I have 2 of these, an expensive actiontec ECB6000 and the cheap Actiontec WCB3000N. All of them work great for their uses. I use the WCB3000N's as wifi extenders for the upstairs (they also have LAN out I just don't use it.) and I got two of the Motorola's as a dedicated gigabit coax line for my main PC so I could have as close to my gigabit speed as possible and the Actiontec ECB6000 is used to run MoCA to all the other devices (TV, PS4, wifes PC, and the two upstairs WCB3000N's).

​

Tests during the night when I know most of the area is offline gets me 800-900 Mbps speeds. Before I got a bonded 2.0 I was getting 400-500.

MoCA works absolutely fantastic in my experience. I use these boxes from Motorola. Gigabit speeds no issue. Just be sure any coax splitters are bi-directional.

Mesh Wi-Fi, where an AP gets an uplink from another AP, is bery questionable at best. If you are going to have multiple APs (reasonable), they should all have their own wire. Which can be MoCA.

so it would be a "decent pairing"

In terms of "as close to ethernet as possible" you'll probably want to do MoCA if you have ethernet from A:B
https://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Adapter-Ethernet-Bonded-MM1000/dp/B077Y3SQXR one of these per area (if need be you could potentially splice a cable)

A simple powerline kit will do the trick. Powerline networking is generally not recommended because it is often slow and depends on how good the wires in your walls are. However, since you're just hooking up a printer, speed doesn't matter. If you have anything else next to the printer like a computer that you also want to hook up, you'll want to use MOCA (two of these ) for a much faster and more reliable connection.

This is the second time I've heard this. I actually do have coax in both.... What's the difference between yours and this .One

I agree with /u/HazyAttorney /u/Rebellious_Rhino and /u/MisterElectric should really look into [this device] (https://www.amazon.com/d/Modems/Motorola-Adapter-Ethernet-Bonded-MM1000/B077Y3SQXR/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1540233182&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=moca&psc=1) if they have a coax cable available where their Xbox/PS4 are. This would help tremendously if not stop it completely.

interesting product, i have https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077Y3SQXR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and has helped me with getting 1GB (actual about 850-950mb/s which is fine). I have fios gigabit and the router they supply was moca 1.0 and i was getting 480 mb/s as you know is max through coax.

what do you mean by your devices aren't communicating?

Not sure why you need a splitter at all. the moca 2.0/2.5 devices are attached after the router at the "main end" in order to double the max coax internet speed which is 400-500 mb/s.

Think of your internet via ethernet giving you max gigabit speed, and the moment you connect it to your coax wall, it immediately goes half speed. So even though I have fios gigabit, its the same thing.

so in my basement my internet comes into the house via ethernet and I connect it to my fios modem/router (which stupidly is moca 1.0, i.e. where my issues begin with the half speeds!)

• you then connect the moca 2.0/2.5 adapter from one of your router lan ports
  
• other end of moca adapter is coax which then goes into your wall
  
• in every other room, you will need another moca adapter which will change the coax connection into an ethernet port for your 2nd router like you have in your diagram
  
  Summed up:
  
  MODEM > ROUTER > LAN CABLE > MOCA 2.0/2.5 adapter > coax cable > Coax wall = internet now running through your house via coax behind your walls
  
  THEN in your other rooms
  
  WALL > coax cable > moca adapter > lan cable > switch > devices (i am unsure if you need another router before your switch)
  
  Only difference between cox and fios is how the internet comes into your house so this diagram should work, no need for splitters unless you need TV which in your adapter manual, will tell you how to do.
  
  TIP THAT I USE:
  
  For every room that gets spotty WIFI, instead of using a moca adapter, just buy a moca 2.0 range extender! It's the same thing except it also gives you wifi!
  
  WALL > coax cable > range extender (moca 2.0) > LAN line > my office PC. Since my office is on the 2nd floor and the bedrooms get spotty internet the extender gives strong wifi signals to the upper floor since my internet comes into my house in the basement.
  
  some resources:
  
  https://forums.verizon.com/t5/Fios-Internet/Why-does-the-Fios-extender-half-gig-speeds-and-is-there-a-way-I/td-p/865802
  
  This diagram from your Goax product website made me think you don't need another router before your switch
  
  https://www.howtogeek.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/x2011-11-29_132204.jpg.pagespeed.gp+jp+jw+pj+ws+js+rj+rp+rw+ri+cp+md.ic.YkB_VGVq0I.jpg

https://www.xfinity.com/support/articles/list-of-approved-cable-modems

Buy an authorized modem https://forums.xfinity.com/t5/Your-Home-Network/Approved-Xfinity-Modems-and-Gateways/td-p/3109887 Once you get it unscrew your rented modem and disconnect it. Cable from the wall to the modem. LAN from modem to router. Router to your devices including wifi connections. Call comcast and tell them you have your own modem now and they will ask you for information and numbers off of it. 10mins later your modem is up and running and your router will automagically handle it. From the router to your equipment read the docs.

btw, don't do cheap do approved and realize if you buy the lower tiered approved modems they are reaching EOL. For me I try and stay around 80 dollars new because at 12-13 dollars per month I break even in under 7 months.

I personally would suggest either of these two modems (stay away from Arris, or any other, with Intel inside) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A1E6BA2 or https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077BL65HS

If you are faster than 400mbps service skip those and go for a 32x8 or 32x16 version with a Broadcom chip in it not Intel.

I own both my modem and my router, I do have a second router hooked up but it is broadcasting it's own network.


This is my modem:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A1E6BA2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dude I have both a life and time but I am willing to sacrifice them to setup a sweet ass home network. If youre willing to help me get in over my head, please do. I want to order a Ubiquiti Edge Router X and hook it up to a Ubiquiti AC Lite access point. And I'll need a modem for that right? I just bought a TP Link modem but I can send that guy back if ya think its lame or whatever.

I'm pretty sure thats a common reccomendation but I've never used anything but consumer stuff like a Linksys. Or I just bought a TP Link AC3150 that I am sending back because the 5G kept disappearing and after a few weeks the WiFi completely disappeared permanently.

Will I have a firewall and shit? Does a consumer router automatically have that or something? What modem should I get? I dont need much control, just want to set a custom DNS for streaming NHL games.

Anyways, this is too long. Thanks if you help me out.

Arris is not the best quality modem - any DOCSIS 3 modem is capable of the same speeds. Comcast leases these kinds of modems to consumers and they are very common to go bad.

Try this: https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-DOCSIS-Speed-Cable-TC-7610-E/dp/B01CH8ZNJ0

It's brand new, reliable (I have had the same one for many months), and just $5 more.

Thanks for the info. I kept coming across the ones below in my research. Would you recommend an Asus over one of these?

netgear 6400

Archer c7

Modems

Arris surfboard 6141

tp Link 7610

It's not an Arris modem. it's a TP Link 7210 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CH8ZNJ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T1_DWhszb89XSA23).

Says its compatible with WOW, Spectrum, and pretty much everyone else.

I'm thinking it's falling squarely under the category of "wow pulled a fast one on my mother in law and sold her a modem".

I'll be down there in two weeks - reset the modem - and call wow activation to get it settled.

However - this whole thing really grinds my gears.

I'm embarrassed to think about how long I put it off when we moved to Richmond. When I did the math on how much I spent in those years, I feel like an idiot. I'm good with tech so making sure I found a good one that would be the right specs wasn't even hard.

I got a combo of a very basic, small modem that fit the right DOCSIS version and an router that got good reviews for really good wifi coverage. No issues with either until recently, router got wonky and had to update firmware. It's totally worth it. If you want to have to do no work, here's what I have:

Router: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1750-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B079JD7F7G/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=archer+ac1750&qid=1570811359&sr=8-3

Modem: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CH8ZNJ0/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The modem doesn't have as high a download speed as some but it's still capable of more than twice my plan's speed.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CH8ZNJ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_m4MIzbRFGT1EY

regular link if post isnt removed

Here's a clean amazon smile link.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01CH8ZNJ0/

Thank you for the help. Unfortunately, our budget at the moment only allows for one or the other. I'm wondering if the Archer C7 is maybe our best bet? Or, would we still be ok with just the Unifi? Maybe it is best if I show you what I'm looking at. Considering we have 150 mbps speed, which of these is my best option?

This Unifi, which has multiple models and I don't know which one I should go for

This Archer C7 router and modem bundle, which I think is what you're talking about

Or should I combine this modem with this wifi router?

Or, if I'm completely missing the point, should I combine this modem with this Unifi? The Unifi is kind of pricey, so I'm wondering if this cheaper model will handle my speed just fine. At most, we have 1 computer gaming, 1 Amazon Fire-Stick streaming, and 2 phones connected to WiFi.

I know some of this doesn't line up with what you're saying, but I'm trying to incorporate what I'm learning with what my budget is :/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CH8ZNJ0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Er9IzbDNR9TMR

Would this work?

I went with this modem:
TP-LinkDocsis 3.0 Cable Modem

I spent a lot of time researching routers and reading reviews. I finally got the TP-Link AC1200 Gigabit Wireless Wi-Fi Router.

Full disclosure, I was trying to do this on a budget and weighed the reviews and price carefully. I almost got the TP-Link Archer 7, but there were just too many disgruntled reviewers on Amazon and The Wirecutter.

Good luck!

There’s a combo usb stick that works in a pi and homeassistant to give you both zigbee and zwave. I have both networks (ceiling fans, smart outlets on zigbee. Wall switches on zwave) and have it working just fine.

I'd say some code knowledge is helpful, but not required, the biggest hurdle (for me) is that I use a Raspberry Pi, so it's linux and after initial setup I rarely poke at the linux part of it so I forget a lot of commands.

I generally prefer to use their Paper UI which allows you to configure most (but not all) of the general configurations you'll do on a day-to-day basis in a fairly simple UI. But if you don't have a RPI right now, and just want one for use with Openhab, (or another open source system) you can skip a lot since Openhab has a distro that comes with Openhab pre-installed an a lot of the software you're likely to need.

Unfortunately I've only just ordered my first of these sensors yesterday s I don't know the specifics of how they work yet, but I expect if you use the original gateway and their software, you can set some spans of time where you want an alarm to sound on your smart phone, and times where it's not necessary.

If connected to a third party system, then the world is your oyster, since the sensor would report "Open" or "Closed" then the hub can handle what happens next, based on the rules you've created. Personally, I'm gonna use them in conjunction with smart thermostats, to turn down the heat when a window or door opens in the room the thermostat is in.

Unfortunately I don't know what if any issues the original gateway has, but based off the replies I've gotten in this thread, it seems you can make it work by using either Zigbee2MQTT, or just a Zigbee gateway. In this case, a Zigbee gateway can be something like this which is just a USB device plugged into either a PC, be it windows, linux or mac, and it'll enable OpenHab to communicate with devices running the ZigBee protocol (Zigbee incidentally is what Philips hue also uses).

I'd say if you've gotten plans like that, I'd probably look into some third party stuff to act as the command center. If nothing else, then for the flexibility, but the option to have one item act on input from another is usually limited to items that can utilize IFTTT, or advertised to work together with each other, but with Openhab, they don't need either, as Openhab facilitates the commands and collect relevant data.


With Openhab my biggest issues was getting my head around how things fit together, but I got completly bitten by the bug and spent days tinkering.


Hope it helped!

Here is the Zwave/Zigbee combo stick. It works well with HA:

Linear HUSBZB-1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJ826F8/ (Another seller has it a few bucks cheaper, but I linked to this one for the reviews.)

I only have a few ZWave devices right now, but I haven't had any issues with speed or reliability with the combo stick. This is the one I have, and it's pretty popular for Home Assistant.

Yes, if the bulbs were controlled via Home Assistant whether it was the UI, automations, scripts, etc, they were great. It just didn't update the state when I used the dimmer, which made most of my automations involving those lights useless (I have it set so a floor lamp connected to a Lutron Caseta plug-in dimmer turns on whenever the Hue lights turn on).

If the light in your daughter's room is a lamp that's plugged into a an outlet as opposed to a fixture, maybe a battery backup would work? I'm not sure though...I know whenever my UPS loses power and switches to the battery, it beeps like crazy, so that might not be much better....

I just read they're still working out kinks in product development. Here's another alternative I think will work for you but uses Zigbee. If you haven't bought a Zwave stick then take a look at the HUSBZB-1 and have both worlds.

If I can't find a solution, I will order an HUSBZB-1 to connect with all my ST devices instead of using the ST hub.

Why not just sell the z-stick and pick up that gocontrol device to plug into your RPI. The one device handles both zwave and zigbee. It's only like $40

Linear HUSBZB-1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJ826F8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_JjJfzbKDYWQBR


https://home-assistant.io/components/zigbee/

Then there isn't really any need for an extra USB stick you get 2 different standards in 1 stick and i don't think you would need a hue hub if you decide to get into hue bulbs.

I'm sure you could sell the zwave stick for almost as much as the other one costs.

I feel like openzwave is super annoying and opaque to configure, but once it works, it works.

I've wondered the same thing about the SmartThings hub (would it make zwave shit easier to deal with?) but ultimately the ST hub uses the cloud which I'm not into. Why add an extra cloud-supported link that costs money when the HASS openzwave support is currently making big improvements.

I used the breaking changes update to zwave in that update as an opportunity to switch to this fairly cheap zwave/zigbee combo stick.
https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-HUSBZB-1/dp/B01GJ826F8

Unless you need something in the new HA versions... don't update. Or make a backup of your config so you can have a 'stable' version and a 'tinkering' one.

I think the Z-Stick only does Z-wave and not Zigbee.
This is the dongle I use. Linear HUSBZB-1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJ826F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ocRtzb33GN2G1
It does both Zigbee and Z-wave.

I highly recommend just buying this stick so that you have the flexability for both zigbee and z-wave. z-wave stuff works better in homeassistant but zigbee lights and switches are way cheaper and more common. For the most part zigbee works fine for me, I have all my lights and about half my switches on it using that switch and outside of bugs during homeassitant upgrades have not had a single issue with it.

I use this stick attached to my raspberry pi

https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-CECOMINOD016164-Linear-HUSBZB-1/dp/B01GJ826F8

I can't speak to the ST sensors per say, but I do use the Iris stuff (second generation) from Lowes (door/window sensor, motion sensor) using a Linear HUSBZB-1 USB dongle.

This USB stick supports both ZWave and Zigbee.

HUSBZB-1 USB Hub

Hmm good to know. The ones my friend sent were

https://www.netgear.com/home/products/networking/wifi-routers/R7960P.aspx

this router and

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-download-Spectrum-Compatible-Gig-Speed/dp/B01I5TJGSE

this modem

This is the one you want. Its OFDM 2+2 and 32/8
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-CM1000-DOCSIS-Ultra-High-download/dp/B01I5TJGSE/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511890242&sr=1-1&keywords=CM1000

ok, after some research i decided to go with the [NETGEAR CM1000](https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-download-Spectrum-Compatible-Gig-Speed/dp/B01I5TJGSE) and the [Asus RT-AC1900P](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/asus-ac-dual-band-wi-fi-router-black/5091000.p?skuId=5091000) would you recommend this setup?

>Typically my devices that I spend most of my time on are wired

Perfect.

>I'm likely going to move to something a bit bigger in a few years from now

And we might be on Fixed Wireless 802.99XX, and you'll need to upgrade regardless. Get what you need now. By hard wiring things, you are already way ahead of the game.

The Archer A7/C7 is all you need in your apartment:

Edit: your N66 is still pretty good too!

https://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-wi-fi-router/

>TP-Link Archer A7

>Wireless router for smaller spaces

>TP-Link’s Archer A7 is great for smaller spaces; for about half the price of our main pick you get nearly as good performance, though no band steering.

Do you have roommates, game, and need QOS?

Netgear x4s.

In an apartment: get everything wireless on the 5ghz band. 2.4 ghz will probably be saturated.

>my router is the Netgear CM1000

CM1000 is a Modem--and a very good one apparently:

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-download-Spectrum-Compatible-Gig-Speed/dp/B01I5TJGSE

GL!

If you decide to upgrade get a Docsis 3.1 modem it's new technology. NETGEAR CM1000 Ultra-High Speed Cable Modem - DOCSIS 3.1 certified for XFINITY by Comcast (CM1000) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I5TJGSE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hSIAybHYBZA8A

It certainly couldn't hurt. Question...with your current setup do you have a router/modem combo or are they separate devices? I prefer my router and modem to be separate.


https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-CM1000-Ultra-High-Speed-Cable/dp/B01I5TJGSE - This is currently the fastest cable modem until the SB8200 comes out later this month.


What's your router budget? Because they can have quite a price range...

I was in a similar situation recently and purchased [this docsis 3.1 modem] (https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Gigabit-download-Compatible-Gig-Speed/dp/B01I5TJGSE/ref=sr_1_7?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1539276309&sr=1-7&keywords=docsis+3.1+modem)

You have to have a 3.1 modem to take advantage of speeds over something like 350 Mbps.

My local isp just started offering gigabit speeds and I purchased my own modem. I opted for the 500 mbps plan. my speed tests on speedtest.net and fast.com are averaging over 800 Mbps.


I don't know if my proximity to the source, or my modem are responsible for the increased speed.... Maybe it's both, maybe it's neither.


In either case, I have been really happy with the docsis 3.1 Netgear modem

Did some research, drank some Ubiquiti koolaid and this is what I'm looking at now

1: Netgear Modem - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I5TJGSE/

2: Ubiquiti Security Gateway - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LV8YZLK/

3: Ubiquiti Wireless AP - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRO512/

4: Ubiquiti Cloud Key - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017T2QB22 (sure Rasp Pi but by the time buying everything and configuring it I don’t mind forking over the extra $30)


Leave the un-managed switches as is for now.

Ok thanks. Now Im confused though, I found these 2 CM1000 modems on Amazon at 2 different prices but they seem to be the same exact thing. Am I missing something?:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0781VN7W5/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-download-Spectrum-Compatible-Gig-Speed/dp/B01I5TJGSE

Really depends on the plan you pick. If you go with gig/1000Mbps, I'd go with this: https://www.amazon.com/Next-Generation-ARRIS-Surfboard-SB8200-DOCSIS/dp/B01N6SKK1G

Keep in mind most of the 32x8 channel modems use the same broadcom chip, so you'll have similar issues across them.

Example this has the same chipset, but a buddy of mine claims it's been more reliable than his SB8200 was: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Gigabit-download-Compatible-Gig-Speed/dp/B01I5TJGSE

I have an old Motorola Surfboard. It's about 7-8 years old. I'm going to upgrade it because I've been having unstable internet recently.

Docsis 3.1 is the kind I'm going to get because Cox recommended that I get it because my current modem is 'incompatible'.

Anyway, would either of these be a good pick? I'm waiting for Prime Day:

NETGEAR CM1000

ARRIS SURFboard SB8200

about the same price

and i believe xfinity gigabit requires DOCSIS 3.1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I5TJGSE/ref=cm_sw_su_dp

Im going to grab this as it is what they recommend for their gigabit pro service. Once it becomes available in the area i'm moving to ill likely upgrade to that instead of the 400mbps service ill be getting for now.

I've been considering one of the new version of the Netgear C1000. My only issue is that Netgears management suite has been abysmal in the past even if the performance was good.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-CM1000-DOCSIS-Ultra-High-download/dp/B01I5TJGSE

I was frustrated, haha... So I went a bit nuts. I got the Netgear CM1000 to be safe. Definitely worked but was twice my last modem's cost. I got a decent deal and a free wireless repeater when I bought it at NewEgg.

Here are a couple:

• https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-download-Spectrum-Compatible-Gig-Speed/dp/B01I5TJGSE
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Next-Generation-ARRIS-Surfboard-SB8200-DOCSIS/dp/B01N6SKK1G
  
  I'm sure there are more.

Looks like you would need to go to the next model up then. Says it works with Xfinity gigabit.
http://www.netgear.com/home/products/networking/cable-modems-routers/CM1000.aspx

NETGEAR DOCSIS 3.1 Gigabit Cable Modem. Max download speeds of 6.0 Gbps, For XFINITY by Comcast and Cox. Compatible with Gig-Speed from Xfinity (CM1000) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I5TJGSE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1vmdBbH6Q9Y33

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-download-Spectrum-Compatible-Gig-Speed/product-reviews/B01I5TJGSE

Most would probably be better off with a LTE modem like this: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-LB1120-100NAS-LTE-Modem-Connection/dp/B01N5ASNTE if they didn't want the OBDII features. No battery to charge, can connect external antennas for better signal. Although it's not going to work with Verizon (T-mobile would work though) and you'd need to connect it via Ethernet to your laptop or to a WiFi access point. This was my original idea but I just tether to my cell phone instead or use a USB WiFi adapter with a directional antenna.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-LTE-Modem-Broadband-Connection/dp/B01N5ASNTE what about this device? Was thinking if I got it I could hook a router up to it then put a vpn on said router in order to bypass the att nat type issues.

Do you know what band they are connecting to? If it 2 or 4 (not 13 only) you should check this out.


NETGEAR 4G LTE Modem - Instant Broadband Connection | Works with AT&T and Alternate Carriers (LB1120) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5ASNTE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eP1uDbDRDK329

I was hoping you get this NETGEAR 4G LTE Modem – Instant Broadband Connection (LB1120) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5ASNTE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GmyeAbBCDHSSQ

And then this TS9 Connector Antenna https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZYN6162/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_enyeAb17RE0AG

To boost the strength. Our phones work out there, but only a couple bars, so just trying to be safe.

Wife’s friend bought a house out in the country and Blazing Hog was their best option. Blazing Hog sent a 4G netgear modem with their sim pre installed. I walked around the house with my laptop connected running speed tests to find the optimal location. They were able to get ~15 down and 10up. You will need to bring your own router and WiFi.

I also bought the same Netgear 4g modem to upgrade from an ATT MiFi at work with a simple SIM card swap. The modem has strong internal antennas don’t buy external antennas for it off of amazon. I have tried several and they don’t work.


NETGEAR 4G LTE Modem - Instant Broadband Connection | Works with AT&T and Alternate Carriers (LB1120) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5ASNTE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9QBoDb50C20FY

To add onto this I just read that you can request a data only sim and it will work off the same card as your phone. Capping at the 80 bucks a month. So something like this you can have WiFi for all your devices. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5ASNTE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fnyGDb4PR0DZS

I really like the Netgear 1120 modem.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-LTE-Modem-Broadband-Connection/dp/B01N5ASNTE

The plus side is it will hold its value much better as it also works on TMO and ATT. The reviews had someone say it worked great on Verizon.

Not OP, but I am using this on a USG as a wan2 failover.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5ASNTE/?coliid=I2TBGK8SOA4PYO&colid=2DDLLAA5DHXGH&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I don't think you'd need two, but it's your decision. It would be much harder to aggregate the two connections into one, but I supposed you could run two networks, with two modems and two routers.

FYI the modem I see that would work is: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-LTE-Modem-Broadband-Connection/dp/B01N5ASNTE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541126855&sr=8-3&keywords=lte+modem

So for cellular data, there are actual 4G modems and routers out there. This device would replace the modem that Comcast would provide, and if you used your own router and/or range extenders, you could notice little difference. Keep in mind, LTE data for home use can be a challenge depending on what plan you have and service area - I have the Verizon "Unlimited", but it does throttle after 22GB.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-LTE-Modem-Broadband-Connection/dp/B01N5ASNTE

That is just a quick example, but if you did have a Verizon jetpack, you might be able to transfer the service to a device like that. Once the service is transferred, you, in theory, could be able to use range extenders.

The middle floor should be a good idea depending on building materials - some will block signal worse than others.

Smart home setups can be a bit tricky for whole home coverage, but I think you can get some good results with using the right hardware. I currently have a small apartment but in my previous residence me and my roommate had a 3 floor condo with multiple smart devices including a nest, google home, streaming devices etc.

Take some time, review your options, and really buckle down on some research with the exact service options and devices you may want. As much as I dislike most cable ISP's, they typically have a more reliable connection at home compared to an LTE solution and typically do not have data caps/throttling.

To note, unless you're using stuff like a laptop, smartphone etc. I'd avoid the jetpack if possible.

My friend took her unlimited data T mobile sim out of her iPad and put it in one of these then she just connected a WiFi hotspot to it and got her things online that way because her DSL sucked and she couldn’t get Comcast either.

NETGEAR 4G LTE Modem – Instant Broadband Connection | Works with AT&T and Alternate Carriers (LB1120) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5ASNTE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jw1BCbEE6EXRM

This should work and you can also plug it into your existing wifi router in order to amplify the signal.

Just installed this over the weekend, works great.

NETGEAR 4G LTE Modem
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5ASNTE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

The industrial version of what you are likely referring to is called cradlepoint:

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-LTE-Modem-Broadband-Connection/dp/B01N5ASNTE/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=cradlepoint&qid=1571203170&sr=8-2

https://www.amazon.com/Cradlepoint-COR-IBR650B-LP4-NA-LTE-Fallback-Router/dp/B01KKZEID4/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=cradlepoint&qid=1571203170&sr=8-1

These work fine in a pinch


NETGEAR 4G LTE Modem - Instant Broadband Connection | Works with AT&T and Alternate Carriers (LB1120) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5ASNTE

There's two major players in the booster space, SureCall and WeBoost. There are other, less expensive knock off brands, but they are not worth your time for "real" improvement. Personally, I think SureCall makes a better product and I can attest their support is absolutely awesome. WeBoost is more of an "automatic" approach, whereas SureCall offers gain adjustments to individual bands that allow you to turn up or down certain frequencies...making it a more flexible product in challenging environments. Warning, both are ridiculously expensive.

There is a lot of technical know-how that goes into using a booster, it's not just mounting an antenna and away you go. There is a certain amount of distance required between the internal and external antennas (over 60 feet) to maximize the signal boosting potential. And, you need to mount the antennas in an optimal place, both inside and outside of your home.

That said, there may be a better way. If you use something like this which is a cellular modem/router, into which you can plug in your GCI SIM card. This device can then be plugged into a common wireless router, providing you wifi that routes all traffic back to this cellular modem. If possible, you can mount this device in the "best" place in your home, then effectively provide strong wifi signal to the rest of your house. I personally use this device and I know for a fact it works on the GCI network. The only thing you need to know is GCI's APN ID, which is "web.gci".

I use a combination of a SureCall booster and the above device, but I also live out in the sticks and have crappy signal strength from GCI. It works awesome, I can easily pull in 25mbit/5mbit most of the time and I have very few troubles with the setup.

I play on AT&T 4g LTE with no problems. I live on the east coast and my ping ranges from 70-120 typically. I've also had as many as 4 people playing on the same connection at once without any noticable difference. Hardly uses any data but I'm using the unlimited plus plan anyway. It's the only broadband available at my house, we use a Netgear 4g modem.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5ASNTE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YUAQzb54174VK

Thanks. Since posting this, I actually purchased this on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-LTE-Modem-Broadband-Connection/dp/B01N5ASNTE/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=lte+modem+t-mobile&qid=1556650071&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Do you think the Coolpad would be better for my needs?

Yes. Why do I need a cradlepoint when I already have Rock solid equipment that can handle fail over?


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N5ASNTE/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

I use a Netgear LB1120 ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N5ASNTE/) in bridge mode for my LTE failover WAN. Words flawlessly. On the other hand, I have tried USB LTE sticks on a few other things in the past and never had anything ever work the way it should.

We are on the 500 plan and I got the Arris SB8200 Modem and an Asus AC3100 Router and we have no issues with streaming or gaming. The modem might be overkill but I wanted the ability to go up in speed if needed.

Plus cat 7 is capable of 10 gigabit speeds anyway! Well I’m going to buy this modem, and I think I’ll go with this router.

Do you have a DOCSIS 3.1 modem? You'll need that, something like the ARRIS SB8200. You'll notice the statement you posted said Spectrum certification specifically, well the ARRIS has passed other providers testing for certification, and will likely be approved by Spectrum in the near future. The ARRIS Surfboard line is pretty much the go-to for cable modems.

Hey, I was talking with a user in another thread and he mentioned something about a puma 6 chipset which some models use which apparently have problems. They may have partially fixed it with a firmware update but I don't think it's fully fixed. There may be lag issues with that model modem you are getting (SB6190).

If they haven't shipped it yet I would cancel the order. It MAY work okay but honestly I would just return it so you don't have any headache.

It seems like the better choices are the model below it, which I actually just bought used for $34, or the new model with DOCSIS 3.1 which is a bit expensive but is very future proof and about $160 after coupon right now on amazon.

I thought I'd alert you before you set up that modem! It's crazy they're still selling it like hotcakes. Maybe the issue isnt that bad but I personally wouldn't use it. It should be an easy return because its amazon.

edit: If you want a model in between the model below it and the very new model, this $99 Netgear is about the same price and is comparable to the one you bought (though a few less channels) and doesn't have any of the puma 6 problems.

Motorola Arris Surfboards are good hardware. You'd have to look at the specs of each (as that is what they provide). If you don't want to look at that, just get one that says DOCSIS 3.1 and you will be future proofed.

Whatever you do don't get a modem with a built in router. Your router will (most likely) become obsolete before the modem.

I'm on a Spectrum up to 200Mbps package and I'm using this modem and get 230ish down on a regular basis.

Well, I'm in a similar situation. I basically know what's causing problems but my ISP refuses to solve it and ignores the problem since they'd have to replace some hardware that works but barely.... So I'm in the process of changing. I have a lot of options though, open fiberoptics net that any ISP that wants to can deliver on.

​

I bet your neighbours have coax as well though, not friends with anyone of them and might be able to borrow their modem for a few hours in order to rule out the modem as a problem?

​

When it comes to a new modem, try creating a post in the thread I mentioned and you might want to include what ISP, lots of people there with a ton of knowledge on the subject.

Since you already have a router on the way, you could settle for a coax modem without a routing function. Might be cheaper to return the router and get a 2 in 1 but generally, modem and router is better then a modem/router combo.

This might give you some ideas on what to look for when buying a modem btw: https://www.makeuseof.com/tag/4-things-to-seriously-consider-when-purchasing-a-new-cable-modem/

P.S. You might want to aim for a modem with 16 channels or more (you can view it as a road, more lanes = more traffic can pass trough and it will flow more evenly across the lanes). Check what your ISP supports first though.

Or something along these lines with 32 channels https://www.amazon.com/Next-Generation-ARRIS-Surfboard-SB8200-DOCSIS/dp/B01N6SKK1G

​

https://www.bestnetworkinghardware.com/top-10-best-cable-modem-review/

P.S. Very much not an expert at cable modems, just have some limited knowledge on them but the arris surfboard SB8200 looked pretty nice.

you can now buy your own modem for RCN 1Gb service.

just activated this modem on 330Mb service with no issues in forest hills.

Okay, for cable internet at those speeds, you're looking at these:

Modems:

SB6190: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016PE1X5K/

or

SB8200: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6SKK1G/

The 6190 technically supports 1.4Gbps, but the ethernet port on it is only 1Gb which caps you there. The 8200 supports 1.4Gbps and can actually do it because it has 2x 1Gb ports, but it requires your provider to give you multiple IPs for that which is almost unheard of in the consumer space. So effectively both are going to be capped at 1Gb down and 343Mb up.

The 6190 is DOCSIS 3.0 and the 8200 is DOCSIS 3.1. This doesn't really matter right now as everyone supports 3.0 and 3.1 support is just starting, but the 3.1 will be supported much longer. So if you're looking for a modem to keep the next 10+ years, go with the 8200, but if you don't mind saving about 50% now and then buying a new modem in 10 years, the 6190 is great.

Both are on XFinity's supported list.

For routers:

Nighthawk AC2300 R7000P: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NA80JML/

or

Nighthawk AC1900 R6900P: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C65K9H9/

or

Asus AC66U AC1750: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N08LPPP/

The R7000P is a pretty high end pick. It's going to support the fastest wireless speeds on the 5GHz AC band. However, you'll likely be limited by the device at the other end, as most end devices don't support speeds that high.

The R6900P is the next step down. It's very similar, but it's 5GHz AC speeds are slightly slower. Even still though, it's faster than what most devices support so you'll likely be limited by the device.

The AC66U is the more budget pick. It supports the same speeds as the 6900P on the 5GHz AC band, but has slightly slower speeds for older N based devices. For most users this likely won't matter as almost everything is AC these days except for like printers and IoT devices that don't need bandwidth. With the AC66U, you also don't have MU-MIMO support, which the more expensive options do. While MU-MIMO isn't required, it can really help in homes that have lots of devices.

Here’s the link:

Next-Generation ARRIS SURFboard SB8200 DOCSIS 3.1 Cable Modem - Retail Packaging- White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6SKK1G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_d0Nvzb1VP51K5

I see some used or refurbished for $140.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6SKK1G

Not as cheap but I'd rather have reliability of my own modem rather than relying on their eq.

So far this is what I think I want my setup to look like. If anyone can let me know if all of these hardware are compatible or if I’m missing anything I’d really appreciate it.

Modem: Arris SB8200
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6SKK1G

Router: USG https://m.newegg.com/amp/products/0XK-000W-00060?0p19G=e

Access Point: tp-link eap245 https://m.newegg.com/amp/products/0ED-000J-00035?0p19G=e

Switch: Unmanaged 5 port
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MU79NFU/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8

Next-Generation Arris Surfboard SB8200 DOCSIS 3.1 Cable Modem - Retail Packaging- White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6SKK1G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ayiNBbK6GW2NT

You can sorta see it to the left of the QNAP box. I ended up with this one because I have 400/10 internet and needed the download channels. I didn’t need docsis 3.1, but I’ve heard from too many sources that the 3.0 version has issues with the processor or something.

It’s amazing and would recommend it to anyone. It hasn’t failed on me yet.

nope your right I wasn't paying attention to solving changing number.

Its the SB8200

For the 1GB speeds, if you're on Comcast you'll need a 3.1 docsys modem which run at like $175, I have this one: https://smile.amazon.com/Next-Generation-ARRIS-SURFboard-SB8200-DOCSIS/dp/B01N6SKK1G/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1521073314&sr=1-5&keywords=arris. Not sure for other ISP's, but I would check with them.

First thing I would actually check though is your ethernet adapter. On my last motherboard the Realtek ethernet adapter had a lot of "green ethernet" and "power savings" options that were basically throttling me. I would all of a sudden get massive frame drops or my upload would just hit 0 out of no where. Once I killed those I haven't had much issue. Oh also, in OBS under the advanced settings there's a checkbox for "New Network Code". Not sure what it does but that helped too.

Another thing that helps your stream in general is to go to Control Panel -> Power Options and make sure you're on Max Performance. My streams were pretty bad quality on occasion because the "Balance" choice which is default to Windows 10 was basically throttling my PC.

I had a lot of issues with throttling.

Mediacom requires a DOCSIS 3.1 modem for gigabit services. The only DOCSIS 3.1 modem on the market that is worth purchasing is the Arris SurfBoard SB8200. Amazon currently has a $20 off coupon which will bring the price down to $166, making it cheaper than the Netgear CM1000 (which is actually worse than the SB8200). A better modem for a better price.

As for a router, I strongly recommend the Asus TM-AC1900 flashed with Merlin. The TM-Ac1900 is basically the Asus AC68U with a custom firmware. You can upload your own custom firmware like Merlin, DD-WRT, or Tomato. Merlin offers performance, DD-WRT offers functionality, Tomato offers a little bit of both. I strongly recommend Merlin as it is what I use to hit 900Mbps down with my gigabit service through RCN.

The directions to flash Merlin are super easy if you follow these instructions. It takes at most 30 minutes to do it, from start to finish. When you're done, you will have one of the best routers on the market for a fraction of the price. I have three of these routers (one AC68R and two TM-AC1900, all running Merlin) and I absolutely love them. The AC68R is my primary router which I bought when it first came out, one TM-AC1900 is in my garage as a repeater, and the other is my test/backup router.

If you have any questions on how to flash the firmware, let me know and I'll be happy to help. If you're in or near the Chicagoland area, I'll be more than happy to flash it for you.

Literally just went through this! I had the cm700 modem and it would drop connections to Comcast frequently. I went through a couple modem/ router configurations starting with the R7800 and at one point had the Netgear AC3200 router. Having gone through $500+ in networking gear I can recommend the R7800. I’ve got the Netgear R7800 sitting behind the Arris SB8200 and it seems to be a great combo. Handles my roommates and I across the apartment streaming and gaming at the same time. Each of us has a few devices over WiFi and then I’ve got some devices over eth. Dynamic QoS seems good and the UI is decent.

TL;DR: Get the Netgear R7800 and the Arris SB8200

EDIT: Formatting and links

1. get your own modem. I use This currently. If you look at others make sure they are docsis 3.1. also make sure it's just a modem. not a modem/router hybrid. The hybrids are a true case of "master of none". you will have to call them and tell them the MAC address so they can provision it.
   
2. Get a new router. Not a fan of TP-link. I would aim for a netgear or linksys. make sure to update the firmware when you get it. I wouldn't spend more then 100$ on one. a 1gb port should be able to pull the same no matter how much you spend on it. Focus more on how many devices will actually be running at once than total devices. My house just has my husband and I. at most 2 devices heavily using the network at once. no reason to go to expensive for that level of use. i spent 150 on mine because i use all the extra settings do host servers. most people don't need to do what i do. Mine is actually 5+ years old and is just starting to die now. mostly because the cat sits on it causing it to over heat.
   
3. Make sure you are wired. Wireless can only really get to 100 - 150 mbps depending on the distance and any physical blocks.
   
   different speed tests will show different results. when dealing with high speed lines, sometimes the bottleneck of the test is the test site. Some speed tests are just not designed to test for high speed lines. i have had grande for 3-4 years now and the speeds have been pretty spot on.

What cable modem do you have, OP?

There's a massive bug with certain cable modems that use the Intel Puma 6 & 7 chipset. I had one (an Arris Surfboard SB6190) and my internet would repeatedly disconnect, until I replaced it with this

What? My Motorola modem definitely support link aggregation. I had to pull a sticker off and enable it. It was only enabled for two ports not all four. Link for reference https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0723599RQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_Ck-xDbFXQ9RK2

MOTOROLA DOCSIS 3.1 Cable Modem, 6 Gbps Max Speed. Approved for Comcast Xfinity Gigabit, Cox Gigablast, and More (Model MB8600) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0723599RQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_b40tDbCPGBC3V

This is the best modem on the market.

Thanks for the reply - I went ahead and did a ton of research like you said and landed on the Motorolla Cable Modem link here

With that said - I may be punching out of my weight limit here with the Ubiquiti products. I am a novice when it comes to homenetworking. I have no idea what most of the acronyms mean, never set up a Static IP address before.

Question: Am I wasting my time with the Ubiquiti products or would it be simple enough for a novice to figure out? Otherwise, I may get a top of the line commercial router like this one link here.

Your thoughts are appreciated.

Thanks. On their website they list a bunch of Arris modems, but recently the negative 1 star reviews on amazon are all complaining about it being bad for gaming (packet loss issue), and that's about all I do on my computer. https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6190-DOCSIS-Cable/product-reviews/B016PE1X5K/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_viewopt_srt?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=one_star&reviewerType=all_reviews&pageNumber=1&sortBy=recent#reviews-filter-bar

When I called my ISP about what works for them, they said as long as its Docsis 3.0 compatible it's okay.

I even found people complaining about the puma 6 chipset in reviews for https://www.amazon.com/Motorola-MB8600-Certified-Comcast-Communications/dp/B0723599RQ/ref=sr_1_11?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1509993117&sr=1-11&refinements=p_72%3A1248879011

"Does this use the now-notorious Intel Puma 6 chipset?"

Also Arris has a 3.1 model, but it has complaints of overheating issues lol

And what router do I need? No idea what technical needs I need for it.

Save a couple bucks with the MB8600 that has the same SoC :P

https://www.amazon.com/Motorola-MB8600-Certified-Comcast-Xfinity/dp/B0723599RQ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522670843&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=mb8600&psc=1

I just picked up a Motorola MB8600 after findiing out about this issue. It's a Broadcom unit and supports >1Gbps. Looks like there are 3 good ones out available right now Netgear CM1000, Motorola MB8600, and the Arris SB8200. All of these are Broadcom chipsets instead of the Intel.

MOTOROLA DOCSIS 3.1 Gig-Speed Cable Modem, Model MB8600, Plus 32x8 DOCSIS 3.0. Approved Comcast Xfinity, Cox More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0723599RQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2xl7BbF45YKX5

Depends what you want. From Comcast's perspective, all you need at a minimum is a compatible cable modem. It's easier if it's on their approved list. Any would likely work, but you'll have less issues if anything goes wrong if you choose one from here. Here's their link:

https://mydeviceinfo.xfinity.com/

The cable modem connects to your cable line, outputs an ethernet connection that you can then use with the rest of your equipment. At that point, you probably need a wireless router, unless you're just plugging a single computer into the modem itself. The router plugs into your cable modem, and expands your network from being just a single ethernet port, to any wireless devices you want to connect to it. It also might have additional ethernet ports on it if you want to connect directly (wired will be better performance than wireless).

Most people recommend keeping the cable modem and wireless routers separate, as you then can upgrade/replace separately if needed. But there are options where they are combined all in one single device, which might be helpful for simple networks. To find those combined devices, just check "built-in wifi" on the xfinity device page, and it will show you those compatible models.

A separate Wifi router that plugs into the cable modem can be just about anything you like, from the cheapest setup up to a whole house mesh with several different access points. They are all "compatible" with Xfinity, as all of them will just plug right into the cable modem to connect up to the network.

If you do end up going with a separate cable modem / wireless router setup, it is sometimes useful to put the cable modem in "bridging" mode. This means that the cable modem sometimes functions as a router as well by default, even if it's just a modem. Then by putting another router behind it, it can sometimes cause issues, especially if you have people on your network with game consoles and some other similar uses. Bridge mode turns off most/all routing from the modem, and the wireless router behind the modem is the only device performing routing - it receives the external IP address as far as Xfinity is concerned, not the cable modem's ethernet port.

My recommendation, for what it's worth, would be the Motorola MB8600 (~$150), with the Google Wifi setup ($100 for one, $260 for 3), 1 puck for each 1500 sq ft of house.

I'm a current Mediacom customer on their gigabit line. I have my own DOCSIS3.1 modem (https://www.amazon.com/MOTOROLA-Gig-speed-MB8600-Approved-Comcast/dp/B0723599RQ) and it works fine.

That said, my area for some reason is only able to pull about 760 down, and that was consistent across the Mediacom modem and my own...

Another option for the modem is the Motorola MB8600 (the sister to the Arris you suggested). The Motorola can be had for ~$160 as of this writing.

https://www.amazon.com/Motorola-MB8600-Certified-Comcast-Communications/dp/B0723599RQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505263668&sr=1-1&keywords=motorola+mb8200

+1 for the recommendation of PfSense.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0723599RQ/

Thats the modem I use on the 1gig plan. Reach out to /r/Comcast_Xfinity/ and see if they can help you with the plan and pricing.

This is the router I use but you might not need something like it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017NT8Q24/

If I had to do my system over I would go with Ubiquiti but the above setup will be fine for 99% of people.

/r/Ubiquiti/

I bought this Motorola DOCSIS 3.1 modem from Amazon:

​

Motorola DOCSIS 3.1 Cable Modem

I would use a MOCA bridge if it's difficult to get an ethernet run. https://www.amazon.com/MOTOROLA-Adapter-Ethernet-Bonded-MM1000/dp/B077Y3SQXR

Is there a coax between the places? (Cable TV).


MOTOROLA MOCA Adapter for Ethernet Over Coax, 1,000 Mbps Bonded 2.0 MoCA (Model MM1000) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077Y3SQXR/

I installed these at a friends house, they worked great.

I'm using Motorola MoCA (have 3 installed) for transit in my home using coax. Though, I'm not currently using DirectTV, specs appear they should be supported. I'm able to pull off-air HD signals via the cable without issue.

I was going to go with this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Adapter-Ethernet-Bonded-MM1000/dp/B077Y3SQXR

The following are the tools I used to add a new cable line for MoCA to an old room on my land:

​

*NOTE: THIS SETUP DOES NOT APPLY TO A FIOS SERVICE PROVIDER.*

​

(optional) MoCA POE Filter for Cable TV Coaxial Networking - This goes onto the incoming COAX Cable. Sometimes your provider does use the same frequency as the MoCA signal to manage with its devices. So This makes sure that your signal is safe to use, and doesn't interfere with your providers own management. This is optional because it depends on your layout. If you live in an apartment complex or area with multiple houses connected (wall to wall) , I HIGHLY recommend you purchase this to prevent your neighbors from receiving and possibly connecting to your network. You should connect this as follows: |Incoming COAX > MoCA POE Filter|

​

2-Way Coax Cable Splitter Bi-Directional MoCA - This allowed me to split my incoming cable so that I can reuse the same line leading to the outside of my house. You can also use it if all your lines are internal, but I digress. It allows you to split and connect multiple rooms (while being safe for MoCA signals). Ideally it goes: | Incoming COAX > MoCA POE Filter > MoCA Cable Splitter > Every room you want connected (including router) |

​

​

MOTOROLA MOCA Adapter for Ethernet Over Coax, 1,000 Mbps Bonded 2.0 - This is what you use to connect both ( or more) ends of the MoCA network. At the end of it all, this is how your network should look:

The internet comes into your house via | Incoming Coax > MoCA POE Filter > MoCA Cable Splitter > COAX Cable leading to MoCA Adapter > MoCA Adapter > Modem > Router (WAN port). |

​

At this point your router is connected to the internet. The connection to the rest of your house is a follows: | Router via LAN port > MoCA Adapter that's connecting to your Modem > MoCA signal travels down your internet Coax > returns to the MoCA Cable Splitter > Coax split from cable splitter, leading to other section of house > MoCA Adapter > Device or switch |

​

(optional) QUAD SHIELD SOLID COPPER 3GHZ RG-6 Coax Cable - I needed to order cable because the room I connected had no coax leading to it. If you need to buy cable, make sure you measure the distance away from the splitter, BASED ON the path you plan to lay the COAX cable on. Then add a few feet "just in case". If you don't need to run new cable, this is a non issue, and can be safely not purchased. Also, this particular cable was not pre-terminated, so I had to terminate and crimp the ends myself which may not be for everyone. Pre-made cables are available, albeit a bit more expensive.

​

(optional) Waterproof Connectors Crimping Tool - This is the tool I used to crimp my COAX cable. If you don't need to terminate your own cables, you don't need to buy this tool.

​

(optional) Rotary Drill Bit - I only needed this because I had to drill in from the outside (old house). You may also need to use this if you have to add a new hole in your wall, for a brand new coax connection. Needless to say, this is optional.

​

(optional) Coaxial Wall Plate - I used this to add the coax cable to my wall. It makes it look nice but isn't "technically" necessary. Use it as you see fit.

​

(optional) 3ft BLACK QUAD SHIELD SOLID COPPER 3GHZ RG-6 Coaxial Cable - This connects the coax wall plate to the branched off network (and devices) Use as you see fit.

​

*NOTE: THIS SETUP DOES NOT APPLY TO A FIOS SERVICE PROVIDER.*

​

If you have any questions, let me know. all the items I listed above can be swapped out for cheaper or more locally accessible items at will. Just be sure yo do your research first.

I don't think it actually makes a difference. The unit sends and receives data on the same port/cable. By the way, motorola sells a cheaper MoCA adapter.

Yes, Im getting Fiber Optic Cable TV.

How about this MOCA Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Adapter-Ethernet-Bonded-MM1000/dp/B077Y3SQXR/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1517449652&sr=8-3&keywords=moca+adapter

Would I need 2?

Get a MOCA adapter if you have a coax (cable) connector in the room. Most ISP’s routers support MOCA. (Comcast, Spectrum, COX) in my experience so far. It’s very close to Ethernet speeds. Better than WiFi and EOP for sure.

MOCAadapter$69

Power line is trash, high amperage loads on the same breaker will make you lag, like when momma makes those dank ass pizza bites in the microwave.

Bulk Dank Pizza bites $82

Clear choice

I tried buying a moca to ether net adapter to get a wired connection. After buying a $60 adapter(the Motorola one) it didn't I work. After some research I found the signal that the directv adapter sends through the rest of the house is purposely slowed down so you can't do this.

Edit: after re-reading your post, the direct tv ones you mention only go one way, from the router to coax. This might/should work.Motorola adapter

Currently my set up is the following:


ONT -> Netgear R7000 (Through the ONT ethernet) -> Motorola MM1000 MoCA Adapter https://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Adapter-Ethernet-Bonded-MM1000/dp/B077Y3SQXR (the MoCA adapter is also connected to the coaxial on the wall that is connected to the ONT coaxial). -> Verizon VMS 1100 Quantum STB

If I'm understanding what you are saying correctly the STB shouldn't be connected to the MoCA adapter directly? Currently I have it set up to the device output of the MoCA adapter.

​

If you have a coax connection you could always use a pair of good quality MoCA adapters like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Adapter-Ethernet-Bonded-MM1000/dp/B077Y3SQXR

That's what they want you to think :) you can purchase a moca adapter and it will take care of your TV. This is the one I use

Motorola MOCA Adapter for Ethernet Over Coax, 1,000 Mbps Bonded 2.0 MoCA (Model MM1000) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077Y3SQXR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WIX5BbXDZ6ZDE

In fact I have a few of them around the house, they are quite handy. Only one is necessary though.

If you have coax in rooms you need internet in, use these. https://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Adapter-Ethernet-Bonded-MM1000/dp/B077Y3SQXR/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=motorola+moca&qid=1558379378&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

I have a few in my house. The work perfectly!

That router looks fine, DOCSIS 3.0 (or 3.1) is all it needs to say to know that it should work.

When you say "main box", do you mean Set Top Box? What make and model is that?

You need to connect your SmartTV to the Internet to make it Smart. Is it connected wirelessly? That would be enough, but you could also use MoCA to connect it, potentially. You can get your own MoCA bridge on Amazon, try this Motorola product:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077Y3SQXR/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_QGb3Cb0EJ1X20

MoCA uses the Coax cable in your house and piggybacks an Ethernet signal on top of the digital cable signal. You would need a pair of them, if the router doesn't support MoCA natively (it doesn't look like the MG7315 does).

That means installing ethernet ports on the walls in the room(s) where you want ethernet to be available and running ethernet cable(s) through your walls to where your modem/router is (or perhaps to a network switch) so you can connect the PCs in your room to your modem/router via ethernet cable.

You could also use powerline ethernet adapters, which provide ethernet connectivity using power outlets:

https://www.digitaltrends.com/computing/everything-you-need-to-know-about-powerline-networking/

Or if you have coaxial (cable) ports in the rooms, there are adapters that do the same over those lines (called MoCa adapters), which may be more reliable, such as this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Adapter-Ethernet-Bonded-MM1000/dp/B077Y3SQXR

Oh ok, so like the motorola moca adapter. (https://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Adapter-Ethernet-Bonded-MM1000/dp/B077Y3SQXR)

I could go from cable company coax -> modem -> router -> LAN ---ethernet--> the motorola device --coax---> MoCA hub (https://www.amazon.com/BAMF-8-Way-Splitter-Bi-Directional-5-2300MHz/dp/B01M34OZ2S)

from there I can add up to 16 motorola adapters around the house at the destinations?

For gaming, I would use wired. It's so much less of a headache. No wierd latency issues because of wifi, it's so much less if a hassle. If you don't have a nearby ethernet jack to connect to the router, I would setup a moca network with these, which go through your cable connection. Verizon FiOS used to be installed with moca, so if you have FiOS you may have moca already.

https://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Adapter-Ethernet-Bonded-MM1000/dp/B077Y3SQXR

The PS4 has notoriously bad WiFi, especially if you have one of the originals (not a Slim or Pro). The 2.4 GHz band in particular is terrible for gaming because of inconsistent latency. If you can’t run an Ethernet cable, I’d suggest something like a powerline or MoCA adapter.

I have a PS4 Pro and I was getting constant lag, “Error 201,” etc. even though my console was about 15 feet from my wireless router with maximum signal on my 5 GHz network. Running some Ethernet cable fixed almost everything. I still get the occasional bit of lag, but it’s pretty rare and I haven’t gotten dropped from a match in over a year.

I’m not trying to put 100% of the blame on your connection, by the way. BF2 just seems very sensitive to latency spikes compared to other games.

Something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/MOTOROLA-Adapter-Ethernet-Bonded-MM1000/dp/B077Y3SQXR/ref=pd_sbs_147_t_2/137-9583813-0541742?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B077Y3SQXR&pd_rd_r=186251fd-8c7e-4fec-8d13-4deee0d4a16c&pd_rd_w=cMHYz&pd_rd_wg=6JFWK&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=FYVN9TXKYMPJW8FXQ7FG&psc=1&refRID=FYVN9TXKYMPJW8FXQ7FG

I assume that you have a coax splitter wherever the cable reaches your house. That might be in a box outside or somewhere inside the house. From this splitter, coax cables run to the various outlets in your house.

It looks like there is only one coax port on the TG1682G: https://fccid.io/UIDTG1682-3/External-Photos/External-Photos-2853842

This means that the MoCA communication signal is sent back out through the same coax wire that the DOCSIS signal providing your internet access comes in. MoCA would then travel back to the splitter and out to all coax outlets attached to that splitter. Hopefully the splitter doesn't block MoCA signals. If so, you'd need to replace it with one that allows them through. Ideally you'd add a MoCA filter to the coax coming into the house before it gets to the first splitter in order to prevent your internal MoCA data from leaving your home.

You would then use a single MoCA 2.0 adapter like the Motorola MM1000 in your home-office with the incoming coax connected to its Network coax plug and your ethernet devices (via a switch or wireless access point) connected to its ethernet plug.

Sounds like it should. I have a similar setup. Mine goes
Fios ONT>coax>splitter>moca box> one side goes to my router/Other end goes out to another splitter that feeds the rest of the house. Then there are moca devices at each point I want signal.

From what I've read, you'll need to add a filter to prevent your signal from going out to other homes, unless you're on fios, then you don't need to.

For reference, here is the splitter and moca boxes I use and I havent had issues. The specific splitter I have says unvailable, but you should be able to get nother one with the same specs easily.

Splitter

Motorola Moca Adapter

MoCA works great if you have coax in the right places (and it isn't carrying satellite—ordinary cable is OK). We use these and it makes a great link between floors.

If you have a coax in your room, get this.

Thanks for the super direct input here. A couple questions:

1. Would you recommend the following for a wireless access point and MoCA adapters? https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Dual-Band-Wireless-Extender-Ethernet/dp/B00FKTMWDE/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=moca+wireless+access+point&qid=1564767061&s=electronics&sr=1-3 ; https://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Adapter-Ethernet-2-Pack-MM1002/dp/B078HMDDVS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=moca+adapter&qid=1564767196&s=electronics&sr=1-3
   
   
2. If I wanted to install the splitters would that just be at the point of the coax cable entering the wall? Or is there a separate central location to install them? I would be hesitant to take this step just because I'm in an apartment so I doubt I'd be able to fiddle around with a central coax area.
   
   
3. Would there be any issues with having the WAP in the basement (i.e., would the wifi not be as effective down there)? Or since the WAP is connected to the router through the coax system, the location doesn't really matter?

I have the Zoom 5341 and it's been working flawlessly for 2 years and 3 months

Comcast's piece of shit modem/router that they insist on providing is a joke. I sent it back and bought my own modem while using my existing router.
Works great, and I save like $8/month.

Excellent router choice. I love the hell out of my ASUS router. If that Motorola modem starts acting up (like mine did) I'd highly recommend getting the Zoom 5341J instead.

NEVER get an all in one modem/router/wireless combo. They are cheap, shitty pieces of hardware.

Wirecutter just had a good article on wireless routers. They suggested the Archer C7 for a solid fast wireless router at a solid price.

If you go mediacom the Zoom 5341 is a good modem that beats out the Motorola Surfoard 6121 at the same price point. I actually have both because Mediacom tried to tell me it was my modem that was the problem.

I currently have Mediacom and paying less than $50 for 100/10. Just agreed to a 2 year and will got up by $10 in the 2nd year. In my first 2 years I had a total of about 2 weeks worth of problems. The longest being 5 days without internet. They do pro-rate for down time and I actually got about 5 weeks comped because the issues were ongoing. The best way to get fast service is to complain at their twitter account. Getting a good tech is a crapshoot. I've had both good and bad. I have a bit of networking background and when I know more than they do I almost always have to call again. When you do get a good tech shit gets fixed.

I have a used modem and router available, both in good shape

the modem is on time warners approved modem list or whatever it's called

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008RV51EE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0063K4NN6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$80 takes em both

I have the Blast package (50mbps) and I regularly pull almost 60mbps.

Shopped modems for a few weeks, and settled on the Zoom 5341J. Read several reviews about stability issues on the surfboard modems, but not with the Zoom modem - so I went with it instead. 8 channel DOCS 3.0 with a gigabit port.

Also, make sure that the power levels of your comcast line are within spec. When the technician first set everything up, I couldn't pull more than 25mbps because the line was at 8 dBmV and a little unstable. The tech said that he has found the most stable connection from -4 dBmV to 4 dBmV, so he cut it down with a splitter and I haven't had a problem pulling over 50mbps since then.

I use this modem. Very happy with it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0063K4NN6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Others have suggested that you purchase a different modem to use in place of the Xfinity gateway, and then using your own router to handle uPnP since the comcast equipment is rife with problems. This is really the best solution. You can grab a list of Comcast compatible devices from their device info page. To my amazement, that page also includes links to buy the devices on Amazon.

If you do purchase your own device you can return the comcast gateway and save 7 bucks a month. I use the Zoom 5341J and it paid for itself in 9 months.

Put a decent router behind it and you'll have a much better experience than trying to make devices play nicely with the comcast equipment.

There is also another option: If you have a different router now and don't want to purchase your own modem (bearing in mind that your own modem will be cheaper in the long run), you can call comcast and ask them to put the xfinity gateway in bridge modem, which will make it act like a cable modem and stop trying to route packets. At that point you can connect your own router to the modem and configure it however you like.

I use a Zoom docsis 3.0 modem that was about 60 bucks on Amazon at the time I bought it. I believe it is this one and I can double check when I get home. It's probably not the cheapest out there but I read it had the least problems with Comcast of the ones I looked at. I know the Motorola surfboard modem is also popular and is the same price or cheaper on eBay (I think through newegg).

I prefer this one

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0063K4NN6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I went with the Zoom 5341J. No problems in the past 7 months (and it paid for itself!) as well as consistently seeing 175+ MB/s even though I'm on the 150MB/s plan.

Modems. There are different cables modems, simply looking at DOCSIS 3.0 doesn't tell the whole story. The more common ones are 8x4 (8 downstream and 4 upstream). The newer ones are 16x4, which work with TWC's 200+ Mbps speeds. There are even crazier modems that just recently came out that can do 24x8, which supports nearly 1 Gbps.

https://www.amazon.com/Arris-Touchstone-TM822G-Ultra-High-Telephony/dp/B00721TUNS

The Left one is a Modem. The right one I cannot make out as the picture is to blurry. I would also guess its a modem, but I am not sure. You would need to make clearer pictures.

The Netgear also I am not sure as you did only make a picture of the company name, not the information of the device. From the look of it its an router. You would need to make a picture of the technical information that are printed on so I know what model it is.

ah and the antronix is a splitter that splits the signal in 2.

i don't get what you're saying. it's right on amazon https://www.amazon.com/Arris-Touchstone-TM822G-Ultra-High-Telephony/dp/B00721TUNS

You would need to buy your own EMTA for phone service (you would keep your current modem for internet). Problem is, it's really rare for customer to own their own. When I was a rep I was told customers couldn't own their own. Yet I had one caller who did. They're also quite expensive. (Notice in the item description it says Comcast may not activate in some regions).

Honestly I would just go with MagicJack and that be the end of it. But if you really want comcast for some reason tell them you want to use your own modem for internet and rent an EMTA for phone. There's really nothing to configure from a user stand point on an EMTA so Comcast having control of it doesn't mean much.

>If you have a separate EMTA you are fine

So here's a question: I own the TM722G modem and technically it is just fine. I'm paying $10/month which is annoying but our internet isn't "slow" or anything. Taking advantage of the faster speed our internet provides would be nice but overall I like the idea of spending $60 for say the SB6183 and removing that $10/m fee.

However if I can't remove the Voice service from my plan and my plan cost the same or be cheaper, then why spend $60 on the SB6183 if I'm going to need to also spend say $150 on the Arris Touchstone TM822G?? Especially when that TM822G could just straight up replace my TM722G considering it is the same thing but just faster. But then I'd be spending $150 to buy really old tech that upgrades me from 100Mbps to 214 Mbps.

Lastly, how does having two (a moden and a EMTA) even work? How do you hook them up? Which do you screw the coax into? Do you then bridge them with a ethernet cable? I don't get how having both works.

> EDIT: If anyone can help me with advice for a good router for Docsis 3.0 router I would appreciate it.

I presume you mean a modem? In case you're considering an all-in-one modem+router, the best advice I can give is: don't, it's better to get a good modem and a good router separately, so that you can replace one without replacing the other.

The Wirecutter has some modem recommendations: http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-cable-modem/

And if you also get your home telephone service from your ISP, I'd suggest the Arris TM822G: https://smile.amazon.com/Arris-Touchstone-TM822G-Ultra-High-Telephony/dp/B00721TUNS

Looks like this might be the best model for the price.

I hear your pain. One of the reasons I avoid bundles, when it doesn't work right, none of it works right. That's the problem with having all your eggs in one basket.

This site would have the info. Anything that says telephony.

The one you linked to or the TM722G are probably your best options. Possibly the TM822g.

What type of modem did you get?

I have Comcast(wish Google would get to the East Coast/my area already.) and I've been looking at a new modem since our current one is only a DOCSIS2 and it's not enabling us to get the speeds we're paying for.

Also, for some reason we have Comcast's box, which runs into our modem that we own, THEN goes to our router. That seems completely unnecessary to me.

I found this but reading the comments makes me think it's a gamble on if I'll get one for Comcast systems or one designed for AT&T or some other IP.

And I know shit all about Modems/"Telephony" Modems since we have our telephone from Comcast too. :/ Like, if this was a graphics card, memory, motherboard, etc. I'd be all over it. But my knowledge about Modems is "Need one that can do internet and Telephone. Need one that has at least DOCSIS3. Always look at reviews." and that's it. I don't know brand or good price.

Arris TM822G. It's known as an "E-MTA" Modem and does both DOCSIS 3 service (8 channel down 4 channels up) and 2 phone lines.

I have one, and it's extremely stable. I go months without even having to look at it.

It's not "cheap" but rock solid for the price. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00721TUNS/

It took a little searching to find, but there are voice-service capable modems, too. They are a bit more expensive.

Examples: http://amzn.com/B00721TUNS http://amzn.com/B00NR1EHP8

I have never used either of these.

I have THIS ONE I think it's pretty much the same time, but the one you want is a newer version.

It's been great and I would highly recommend it. :)

You know that Time Warner charges you for renting the modem, right? You can buy your own modem and save that extra 5 bux. Here's the modem you want - http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-SURFboard-SB6141-DOCSIS-High-Speed/dp/B007IMPMW4

Do you have a DOCSIS 3.0 cable modem? I had the same problem and upgrading doubled my speeds to 55. It combines 8 cable channels instead of 4.

http://mydeviceinfo.comcast.net/

I got this one and the setup was automated, and it's fast.

Like this?

Edit: This is what I have now. it's Docsis 3.0 compliant and it's the one I've had for a couple years now (originally had 15/1)

OP: I have Time Warner Cable 50mbps package, and I can tell you that I definitely get the advertised speeds after a couple changes. The router/modem 2 in one that they ship out recently is total crap that overheats and doesn't know how to internet. Buy yourself a nice standalone modem and a dual band gigabit router. Also, if you're in a populated area, as stated before, make sure that your wifi channel is less used so that there is less interference. Since I have done that I have almost always gotten 50 megabits per second when I run speedtest.

Try seeing if it is your modem/router combo by pushing the reset pin, letting it cool down for a bit, then connecting to it again... they tend to go over time for some reason.

I think it's this one, maybe this one, but I'll have to check when I get home. Definitely a Motorola Surfboard series docsis modem at the very least though.

Now that you mention it, I also had Rocket League issues on Comcast with that modem back in new mexico so it could very well be a modem issue. Looking up the surfboard chipset, it seems like it is likely a puma 6 chipset so that would make sense. Could be the wifi router too, idk, haven't messed with that myself.

According to this [NOPE] (https://www.amazon.com/Motorola-SURFboard-SB6141-DOCSIS-High-Speed/dp/B007IMPMW4). I'd upgrade to newer.

chs: http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-SURFboard-SB6141-DOCSIS-High-Speed/dp/B007IMPMW4 or

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007IMPMW4/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_euIZDbGFA0R2C

The Motorola Surfboard 6141. I swear by this like of modems.

ARRIS SURFboard SB6141 should do just fine. I have this modem and it works great for my 200 Mbps plan. Just be sure to wear a welding mask when looking at the lights; they are blindingly bright.

I would go with this Motorola if I were buying today. https://motorolanetwork.com/cable-modem/mb8600.html
My motorola modem is a few years old, but it has been very reliable. In fact I may need to get one. There is nothing wrong with mine and it delivers the 260 mbps I get now really well. I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/Motorola-SURFboard-SB6141-DOCSIS-High-Speed/dp/B007IMPMW4. It is a few years old and won't be up to the task of the next speed upgrade that Comcast does.

It's only $66.49 on amazon. What router are you using?

The modem takes your ISPs service and makes it usable for 1 static device. A router acts as that static device and makes your service usable for multiple devices on its own internal network. You need both functions, whether in 1 device or 2+. A modem is a relatively straightforward device that will not vary in core functionality, whereas a router can vary wildly in features, functions, price, speed, range, etc. Usually the router+modem combo units have crappy routers.

I recommend getting a regular DOCSIS 3.0+ modem, perhaps like this and then a separate router, try this search

I prefer modem and router seperately. If you go that route I would recommend this modem: https://www.amazon.com/SurfBoard-SB6141-DOCSIS-Certified-Refurbished/dp/B00OMDZAV0/

Mediacom can be great if you live in the right area. I have been in a spot where it constantly fluctuated, but right now where I live (NE side) it is solid. I don't know how it is near the hospital.

https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6141-RB-Certified-Refurbished/dp/B00OMDZAV0/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1538714118&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=sb6141&psc=1

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https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N450-Wi-Fi-Router-TL-WR940N/dp/B003Y5RYNY/ref=pd_bxgy_147_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003Y5RYNY&pd_rd_r=12c1fbb5-c858-11e8-9abb-7d2cd28fbd32&pd_rd_w=B3NVq&pd_rd_wg=hixrV&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3f9889ac-6c45-46e8-b515-3af650557207&pf_rd_r=RMSV9JQNBEK2AXMWGW91&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=RMSV9JQNBEK2AXMWGW91

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This is what I was running before I upgraded, the router is really up to you and how much you want to spend. If you aren't pushing too much bandwidth just get something cheap, There is a Asus router everyone loves that goes on sale at Tmobile every once in a while that you can flash with a custom firmware that makes it act like the next higher model, I just can't remember the name of it.

Antenna is a very good thing and will save you quite a bit of data. OTA, you'll be able to pick up ABC, CBS, CW, FOX, NBC, PBS, and the subchannels on it. Post your TV Fool, and that will tell you what broadcasters are available in your area, as well as what type of antenna you need, and which direction to point it. That will get you anywhere from 4 channels to 60+ depending on your area. I personally get 18 channels for free OTA.

Regarding speed, 25/2 should be fine, as for streaming in HD, Netflix recommends a 5Mbps connection per streaming device. Buying your own router and modem would save you money, as you wouldn't have to pay the rental fees any longer. Here is the Comcast approved Modem list. I'm partial to Surfboard modems, as I'm still rocking a 10-year-old SB5101, and it works plenty fine for my needs. It is advised that you have a separate router and modem, as if one unit goes TU, you can replace that with a new unit, and not have to buy a complete AiO package again. You can get a SB6141 for $54 on Amazon.

[This](http://www.amazon.com/SURFboard-SB6141-DOCSIS-Certified-Refurbished/dp/B00OMDZAV0/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1451792779&sr=1-5&keywords=ARRIS+SURFboard+SB6141
) is a decent one. Better than that rented POS.

I used to use something similar to this Zoom modem. Then I had AT&T for a few years and was stuck being forced to use their crappy unit in bridge mode. When I went back to cable Internet, a family member gave me an Arris SB6182 that I've been using ever since.

If you're not planning on moving off the 75 Mbps plan you could probably get by with something like this

I've been using this ARRIS Surfboard SB6141 refurb for two years now with 200mbit service. I hit about 230 with it.

Or there's a higher end version for $10 more here.

EDIT: Just saw that you need wifi built in. Here's a ARRIS Surfboard SBG6700AC-RB w/ AC1600 modem/router combo unit for $69.

Amazon has this one for only $30 if your connection is less than 300mbps.

I have seem then for as low as $20 for some models. The biggest risk with buying a refurb modem is that the MAC address may already be associated with another account and you can't always have them removed. Call your ISP as soon as you get it and make sure that it will work. If not, just send it back because amazon makes returns easy.

I just looked up, which SB6120?
https://smile.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6141-DOCSIS-Package/dp/B00YUU5628/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=sb6120&qid=1565206658&s=electronics&sr=1-1
or
https://smile.amazon.com/Motorola-SB6120-SURFboard-eXtreme-Broadband/dp/B001UI2FPE/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=sb6120&qid=1565206658&s=electronics&sr=1-3

If it's the second one then SB6183 will be a significant upgrade as you're going from DOCSIS 2.0 to DOCSIS 3.0. DOCSIS is a standard for cable internet.

The first one, the difference is that you're going to have more bonded channels which will make it less likely for your internet speeds to be affected by other people on your block who are also using the internet since it's cable technology. An example would be, your speeds at 4 AM will be higher than speeds at 9 PM since more people on your block uses the internet during that time frame. With DOCSIS 3 and more channels, the slowdown from other users will be lessened.

Do me a favor and do a speedtest on www.speedtest.net with your current setup on Ethernet so we can get an idea if you even need to change routers in the first place. Or are you renting one from the ISP?

This works if they don't have optimum voice (TV/internet only)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YUU5628/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_r-GfAbN74KZEN

If they have optimum voice, this is the exact model optimum rents you, the
Arris TM822, and used they got for about $40, new $140.

You can easily shave $5 off your monthly bill from spectrum by buying your own modem. Most people don't realize it but they are renting the modem from their ISP. If you use the service for more than a year, you could have just bought your own modem because they cost less than $100 to buy. You can pick up something like this modem. I paid even less because i bought mine used off of craigslist.

Know what speeds you're getting from your ISP and make sure the modem you want to buy supports or exceeds that speed. Usually getting a separate router and modem is the way to go, but if you want a single device, you'll be looking for a gateway. You'll get better wifi and save money getting your own devices.

You can also drop the land line and get an internet phone adapter which you can plug into your router and make calls for free over the internet. Only downside is that you'll need to pay something like 12 per year to upgrade your line if you want to be able to call 911.

This is my modem and I haven't had any issues in six years with it.

For my router I followed these instructions after putting a gigabit ethernet card in an old computer I had laying around. It also doubles as a backup, VPN, and file, and media server.

Then I set up a couple of these guys and a PoE switch to power them.

https://www.amazon.ca/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6141-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B00YUU5628

$66.76 new, that’s a good price actually. Probably no difference functionally than the Technicolors.

Before the Technicolor I’m using now I used a Surfboard. They’re both very reliable.

Check how many open connections your modem and router allow. They all have a limit. For example that is an 8x4 which means it has 8 downloads and 4 uploads.

The HDMI extender will likely use one of the cat6 cables. It may have terminals for 1 cat6 (8 conductors) cable on a terminal strip, or it may have an 8p8c socket to receive an RJ-45 connector.

If it has an RJ-45 socket, terminate one of the cat6 cables using an RJ-45 connector on each end appropriate to the conductor type (stranded like speaker wire vs. solid like Romex). The conductor type will be written on the cable jacket, or will be visible if you strip a bit of insulator from one of the eight conductors inside. You'll need a crimping tool. Using the wrong type of RJ-45 connector (solid vs stranded) may lead to reliability issues.

The order of the solid/striped coloured conductors matters. You'll probably want to terminate the cable as a straight through ethernet cable (pick one of the two standards, T-568A or T-568B and stick with it), but check the extender's manual to see if it expects something odd, like a cross-over cable. If the extender did not come with a printed manual, Google the model number for a manual for configuration and other details.

One of the two parts of the extender might be labelled as needing to be connected to the HDMI source (your receiver in the closet), even though HDMI is supposed to be bi-directional. The extender ends will likely also need power.

In your closet, connect the receiver to the transmitting end of the extender using an HDMI cable of the required specifications. Behind your TV, connect the TV to the receiving end of the extender using another HDMI cable.

The other cat6 cable will be to deliver Internet access to your TV via ethernet to your wired home network. Terminate each end using an RJ-45 connector as above, as a straight through ethernet cable. Connect the TV end to the TV, and the other end to your broadband router, DSL/cable modem, or network switch. The broadband router might be located in a different area of your home (through some in-wall cat6). There may be a network switch in your closet which also distributes Internet access to your receiver, Xbox, etc. If your TV has Wi-Fi and your signal is strong, you may not need to use this second ethernet cable for smart TV functions, but a wired connection tends to be more reliable than a wireless connection.

Does the hardware version matter in regards to OpenWRT?

C7'S seem to be resales/refurb which is fine, currently:


SB6141

C7

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Comes to $109.89 which isn't bad at all!

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There's also the Archer A7 which comes new, not sure if this is equivalent:

A7

I like pmarinel's suggestion and I'm just going to piggy back on his response.

Since Xfinity is your provider, you can use an Arris Surfboard modem to give internet to your router to distribute to your house and through that you can save on not having to pay monthly rental fee's to Xfinity to use their modem.

I would find the coax cable that is most central to your apt (and also has one of the network ports in the wall near it), plug my surfboard modem into that coax, plug my surfboard modem into the WAN/Internet of my router, and then have one of the LAN ports of my router plugged into the wall network port leading to the box you have in the photo, and then plug ports 1, 2, 3, 4 of that black patch box into an unmanaged switch such as this that you can leave in there. Doing all of that would mean your WiFi network would be distributing throughout your apartment from a central location (even coverage), and all network ports in your house would be wired to that same network, and best of all you don't have to waste money paying for Xfinity's monthly equipment rental fees.

If you want suggestions for WiFi routers, let me know and send you a few recommendations. If you apartment is large and you're worried about WiFi from a single device not covering your home well enough, I heard Google Mesh networks are pretty good for that.