Best computer networking products according to redditors

We found 25,743 Reddit comments discussing the best computer networking products. We ranked the 4,053 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Subcategories:

Computer networking hubs
Computer networking switches
Computer networking modems
Computer routers
Computer networking transceivers
Wireless access points
Computer networking device servers
Network print servers
Network adapters
Networking antennas
Wireless range extenders
Modem router combos

Top Reddit comments about Computer Networking:

u/havoc3d · 221 pointsr/news

Well it's not like you can purchase your own for much less than that. Oh, wait, yeah you can

u/Two_Coins · 143 pointsr/news

This is why I purchase my own modem, one without wifi capability.

For anyone wishing to do the same here is the modem I use, and is compatible with most standards.

http://smile.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SB6121-SURFboard-DOCSIS/dp/B004XC6GJ0/

http://smile.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SurfBoard-SB6141-DOCSIS/dp/B00AJHDZSI/

70 dollars may seem like a lot, but if you're renting a modem from your provider for 7 dollars it begins to pay for it self in under a year.

But then you'll have to go through the incredibly painful experience of returning the modem, them saying you never returned it even though you did, and them charging you the cost of the device. I'd recommend sending in your modem via certified mail and then keep the receipt for when they demand you pay because they never got it.

EDIT: Changed URL to latest model, thanks goes to /u/Dark_Shroud. Old link is preserved for those who want a cheaper model that will still work with their connection.

u/nalybuites · 123 pointsr/cableporn

Here's the composition of the rack:

  • NavePoint 12U Network Rack
  • TP-Link TL-SG1024: 24 port rackmount switch
  • TP-Link TL-SG1016PE: 16 port rackmount power over ethernet switch (needed for the Wi-Fi access points)
  • TP-Link TL-R600VPN: Rackmount router w/ dual-WAN and VPN
  • Rackmount Power w/ surge protection
  • Rack shelf: Used to hold modem and NAS
  • Patch Panel: 24-port Cat6 patch panel (wires go in the pack via punchdown connection, and you run patch cables to the switches)
  • 12" Patch cables: For connecting between the patch panel, swicthes, other on-rack devices
  • Synology 416play NAS: Movies, music, pictures, etc. 32 TB in all.

    Elsewhere in the house/other useful parts:

  • Keystone Cat6 jacks: one per bedroom, 4 in my home office, 4 in the media room (not built yet), 3 in the family room
  • 1-, 2-, 3-, and 4-hole keystone wall plates: Buy the number of holes you want and just pop in the keystone jacks
  • Blank keystone inserts: For when you have too many holes in the keystone plates
  • Ubiquiti AC Pro x 3: Wi-Fi access points, roughly center of the house on each floor (basement, first, second)
  • Punchdown tool: For doing the punchdown connections on the patch panel and on each of the keystone Cat6 plugs in each room
  • Extra rack screws and washers
  • J-Hook: There are two hooks on each wall, holding service loops for the Cat6 and Coax, respectively.

    Useful things I learned:

  • I was originally going to run the wires myself, but never could find the time. Also Cat6 is expensive when not purchased in wholesale quantities (< 10,000 ft). So we hired a local electrician to run the actual wires. It took two of them about 1.5 days to run everything. This was well worth the money, since the project would have taken many months to do in the evenings/on weekends with a toddler running around.
  • I did all the wall terminations. Since they were punchdowns, it was easy and took one evening after work. The electricians would have charged me another half-day of labor.
  • I did all the network rack work. This also took one evening after work.
  • Do NOT buy electrical/networking equipment from a big box hardware store. Always go to a specialized retailer, like an electrician supply store. Their prices will be 1/20th that of the big box store, you won't have to have anything shipped, and their employees actually know what they are talking about. So if you're looking for something that you don't know the name of, you can usually describe it.
  • Newer construction may have fire breaks/blocks/stops which prevent fire and gases from traveling up the inside of the walls. This makes fire move more slowly and give you more time to evacuate. However, it also means you might need to drill holes/patch walls in order to run wires vertically.
  • Put in a service loop. If you ever need to re-terminate for any reason (like replacing a patch panel), it will give you extra cable to work with. Do the same thing inside your walls behind the wall plates, since you might have to do the same thing there as well.
  • Buy networking gear that is rated for the same speed (i.e., gigabit). Your network will only be as fast as the slowest part of it.
  • Watch out for network loops. This is really easy to do and will cause your router to crash or perform suboptimally. I spent >2 hours debugging on of these as a result of connecting my router to itself by way of both switches.
u/Deathblow92 · 106 pointsr/PS4

Powerline Adapters are a blessing. I got the two-port version so I can have my PS4 and PC plugged in at the same time.

u/DeAuTh1511 · 100 pointsr/smashbros

Get something like this. It literally runs internet through the power cables in your house. Plug one next to your router with an ethernet cable, and one near you device with an ethernet cable. Instant internet.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-ethernet-Adapter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1543444947&sr=1-4&keywords=powerline+adapter

u/Calijor · 78 pointsr/worldnews

>$200

>$305

I appreciate the importance of network security but... Just get an old PC and install a wifi card and use a network switch for ethernet ports. You'll save at least $100 if not more, at the cost of only a bit of space, and can use the same software.

u/armada127 · 70 pointsr/buildapc

Currently in a house with 5 gamers total

I live in house with 3 other guys and a buddy of ours has been crashing on our couch for the past month (long story, but he's cool and contributes to cooking, cleaning, and utilities) We all play League of Legends, a handful of us play BF3, a few others play Tera, and then various other games such as CS:GO and TF2, and other console games like Super Smash Bros. and Mario Kart.

We have been here for about 1.5 months, below are some issues that we encountered:

  • Bandwidth: we have a 105Mbps down/ 20Mbps up pipe provided by Comcast. The Router that comcast provided sucked, constant latency spikes, no QOS, terrible admin console. I ended up going out and buying my own modem and Router. I got the Motorola SB6121 and an Asus-RT-N66U Router (I could have paid an additional $30 and got an AC router, but honetly, none of us use the wireless for our computers, and any wireless device we do use which include phones, tablets, laptops, Apple TV, Ouya, PS3 etc, do not support 802.11AC and even if they did, none of them even saturate 802.11N) This completely solved our issues with lag spikes, and by far was the most frustrating issue we dealt with thus far.

  • Electricity: I don't know where you guys are living, but being in Texas the A/C was on constantly, so be prepared for a large electric bill. Our last bill was ~$270, but that is pretty much as high as it will go.

  • NAS: Currently I have 3 1TB drives in my computer and I am using Windows to share the content, we are currently using XBMC to play media across our computers as well as the Ouya and the Apple TV which are both hooked up to TVs. (1 in the living room, the other in the breakfast room/nook) I want to eventually build/buy a NAS, but I have been way too busy at work and I've been spending too much money on going and eating out.. so that needs to change.

  • Last bit of advice I'd have to give, is make everyone do chores or something, it gets dirty very fast at our place with 5 guys living there, 2 dogs, 1 cat(although she is mostly outside), plus friends, girlfriends, and parties also all happening at our place.
u/KingdaToro · 65 pointsr/HomeNetworking

If you want your stuff to last a long time and be more reliable, get dedicated devices rather than combined ones. A "wireless router" is actually three devices combined into one: router, switch, and access point. The router separates your network from the internet, moves data between them, allows multiple devices to share your single public IP address, blocks unwanted internet traffic from reaching your network, and assigns local IP addresses to devices on your network. The access point does Wi-Fi. The switch connects these together and gives you the multiple LAN Ethernet ports on the back.

These three devices are also available separately. For example, this is a router, this is a switch, and this is an access point. You'd connect the router's WAN port to the modem and the LAN port to the switch, then connect access points and other wired devices to the switch. This has several advantages:

  • The devices are much more reliable as each only does one job, rather than having to juggle three different ones.
  • It's easily expandable. If you need more Ethernet ports somewhere, just add another switch there and connect it to an existing switch. If you need more Wi-Fi coverage somewhere, add another access point there and connect it to an existing switch.
  • Upgrading is less wasteful. If, for example, a new Wi-Fi standard comes out, just get new access points that support it. You can keep your existing router and switch(es). Likewise, if you upgrade your connection speed to something your router can't handle, just upgrade it and keep your switch(es) and access point(s). And if something breaks, you can just replace it and keep everything else.
  • You can optimize the locations of devices. Your router and switch(es) can be put well out of the way, behind other stuff, where their cables will be out of sight. Your access point(s) can be ceiling mounted to provide the best Wi-Fi coverage, with only one Ethernet cable running to them. This cable also powers the AP using Power over Ethernet.
u/ThrowinAwayTheDay · 63 pointsr/gadgets

$400.

What $400 could get you instead:

u/ImCakeStep · 52 pointsr/PS4

Don't use WiFi ever. Random packet loss will happen from simple interference. Its possible the two PS4s are interfering with each other.

Just use an ethernet cable to plug the PS4 into the router. If its not possible to run a cable then buy Powerline Adapters. I honestly don't know why these are not more popular. I had to use them for years until I finally had cables run throughout the house but they pretty much saved my life as I refuse to play any sort of online game with WiFi.

u/Vsuede · 42 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Jesus christ...

It's a USB wireless adapter people - it's not a modem. Yes, good wireless routers are theoretically capable of high speeds. Adapters not as much. None of this has anything to do with ISP speed. This entire thing reeks of peasantry.

u/harrynyce · 31 pointsr/HomeServer

There's really a couple different paths to choose when embarking upon this journey. Some folks purchase brand new hardware, while the alternative option is to consider picking up an old/used enterprise server, which can offer incredible value for slightly older, yet awesomely powerful machines with a lot of life left in them for home usage. I hemmed and hawed and was in an almost identical situation as you are right now, only this was roughly ~2 years ago.

I would encourage you to start by taking a gander at /r/Homelab's wiki, you probably won't find a better single source of information anywhere on the web: https://www.reddit.com/r/homelab/wiki/buyingguide

It's chock-full of great information. Do you have a budget in mind? What's your ISP bandwidth like? Are you planning to share things remotely, or going to keep most of this in-house? Do you have a decent router to build out your home network around? LOTS of considerations to make, it's difficult to find a one-size fits all solution, as every use case is going to be different to a certain extent.

For me, personally, I started with a trusty little Edgerouter-X that I managed to pick up on sale for $49 way back when. It's an amazingly powerful and versatile device that handled most everything I threw at it. From there you'll need to decide what type of hypervisor you want to run, as this can seriously affect the hardware requirements you initially inquired about.

The path I followed for learning hypervisors was sort of:

  • VirtualBox -- widely used, totally free, can pretty much be installed on any desktop PC, but i found it to be a bit clunky once I got some experience with other options.
  • Microsoft Hyper-V -- there's two variants of this (type 1 & type 2), the former being what you would install on baremetal, as your OS, then manage remotely from another machine on the network... no admin GUI, so you'll need to learn some command line. The latter option (type 2 Hyper-V) can be added to any Windows 10 Pro (or Enterprise) desktop PC, by simply going into "Programs and Features" and using the appropriate checkbox to "Turn Windows features on or off" but be advised, virtual machines want memory. Lots and lots of RAM, depending upon what type and how many virtual machines you ultimately end up running.
  • Proxmox -- is something i only initially dabbled with, so I don't have much firsthand experience, however it's an excellent choice, is also free & open-source if you are comfortable delving into the *nix realm.
  • VMware ESXi -- there are licensing costs associated with this, but ESXi is the free version for home use, with a somewhat limited feature set and can be rather particular about what type of hardware you run this on. This is what we were using at work and is pretty much considered the gold standard in virtualization, so I wanted to get my feet wet and learn more about what our guys were using on a day to day basis, so this is where I ultimately landed. You must check the hardware compatibility list before dropping a ton of cash, if you decide to go this route. This is ultimately what lead me to the used enterprise gear, I picked up my first legit server from Craigslist with intentions of going this route... and i currently have two ESXi 6.7 compute nodes providing all my virtualization needs.

    These are by no means the only options. There's a very passionate community (albeit sometimes a bit toxic) surrounding the FreeNAS project, and just as many folks love unRAID for the simplicity and versatility it offers (at a small, one-time cost, I believe fifty or sixty dollars for the license). Or you could even run your favorite flavor of Linux server and build everything yourself, from the ground up. This is a wonderful resource for getting an idea of what that might entail: https://blog.linuxserver.io/2017/06/24/the-perfect-media-server-2017/

    Some general tips I've managed to pick up over the years; RAM, RAM, RAM... you can almost certainly never have enough. It will be the single most in-demand resource once you get going. Don't stress too terribly much over CPU power, unless you have intentions of pushing out 4K HDR transcoded streams. Knowing what devices the end-users will be using to consume your media from a Plex server is also very helpful, but the general rule is ~2000 Passmark score per 1080p stream. This will be your bible for determining Plex requirements.

    Don't just take my word for anything that's been mentioned here, as my network is an absolute mess and being constantly built, broken, fixed, torn down and rebuilt all over again. That poor attempt at a jumbled network diagram is a bit outdated already, but gives a general idea of the various options available. I mostly am what you would call a "tinkerer" type homelabber. If you have a more specific professional sysadmin path in mind, this may be more of what you are looking for, but I tend to stick more to the homelab realm and get into all sorts of bad little projects. They have a great "Start Here!" thread with an incredible overview that presents things in a MUCH better fashion than I have been able to just now.

    Good luck and welcome to the machine! Used enterprise hardware can be had for fairly cheap these days and you are in luck, it's a great time to embark upon a homelab journey as flash memory prices have finally started to plummet, so SSDs are much more reasonable, as is ECC memory for your server(s). Storage and memory are going to be your biggest costs getting into this. You can get older generation Xeon CPUs with really decent horsepower for next to nothing. Are electricity costs going to be a concern for you? What about physical space and/or noise constraints? Lots to consider which could tip you in one direction or another.

    I think I've given you plenty to chew on for now. My apologies in advance if I've overwhelmed you, as that was NOT my intent... just hoping to save you a little bit of time, as I've spent a couple years constantly reading, researching, evaluating various software and projects and I've really only scratched the surface of what's available. Never enough time in the day.

    Regardless of what path you choose, have fun! I highly encourage both Plex and Pi-hole as your first two projects once you get going. In a perfect world you'd have at least two Pi-holes set up for redundancy. My primary runs in a little Ubuntu Server VM, the secondary nameserver is on a little Raspberry Pi 3 B+ which can take over if I need to reboot servers for whatever reason. Bonus points if you consider combining Unbound with your Pi-hole, as well as an OpenVPN server, or PiVPN for secure browsing while out and about and potentially connected to any sketchy open WiFi networks, PLUS ad-blocking for your entire network and while on the go. Next to Plex, it's probably the single best project I've tinkered with over the past couple of years.

    Please keep us posted on what you decide -- don't hesitate to ask questions if there's stuff I've ranted and raved about that isn't clear in any way (sorry, i tend to ramble in a stream of consciousness style that isn't easy to follow)... rely on the communities of each of these projects, as they're often fantastic resources to help you. If yer unfamiliar with Linux and wanted to learn, then Linux Mint is where I started and would encourage you to use that as your first Linux VM once you're ready. You don't need to buy anything to get started, you'd be surprised how much you can learn on an old PC that's just lying around -- and once you've gotten your feet wet, you may find that your plans will continue to evolve and change. I don't think I've ever once seen a "finished" homelab. They're always a work in progress as there's no limits to what you can learn and do. YMMV.

    Thank you, please drive through. . . =)
u/Megabobster · 28 pointsr/buildapc

Here, have an upgrade guide. This is mostly oriented for gaming, but I tried to make it as general purpose as possible.

First off, if you're trying to survive gaming on an older system and are wanting to upgrade, remember to check out the PC Gaming Wiki as well as the Low Spec Gamer YouTube channel and /r/lowendgaming. There are lots of tips and tricks to get games running better, and if you discover your own, don't forget to share them!

  • If you have a motherboard older than DDR3, save and upgrade to a new platform. It's not worth investing in a platform that old for anything other than novelty purposes.

  • If you want to upgrade your motherboard (like if you're looking at buying an unlocked CPU but have a locked motherboard), save and build a whole new system, unless you happen to come across exactly what you want for cheap. Used motherboards are usually just as expensive as new ones so it's not really worth investing that much into an older platform.

  • If you have an Intel motherboard and want to upgrade your CPU, see my reply to this comment. Character limit, woo!

  • If you have an AMD motherboard, I'm not as experienced with this but upgrading to an 8320 or 8350 Black edition would be good.
  • I'll do some research and put some detailed information here later; like I did for Intel processors. Again, after the aforementioned good night's rest.

  • When buying any used processor, especially on eBay, be very wary of scams. Any price that seems too good to be true or is from a seller with very little feedback is something of which you should be very wary.

  • If you have less than 8GB of RAM, buy a 2x4GB kit. Dual channel actually makes a difference these days. If you want more, well, divide the amount you want by the number of slots you have. 16GB / 4 slots = 4GB sticks, so get a 4x4GB kit. PCPartPicker is a good resource for this, although new DDR3 is getting more expensive. It might be worth looking at the used market, but be careful you don't buy ECC RAM (server memory) unless you have a motherboard and processor that support it.

  • If your system isn't using an SSD as its boot drive, buy an SSD and reinstall your OS onto it. I don't know if I can recommend a SSD smaller than 250GB considering how cheap they're getting. Brand doesn't matter a whole lot but make sure to do a little research first. PCPartPicker, again, is a great resource for this. Filter by the minimum capacity you want and sort by lowest price, then go from there. Samsung is expensive but reliable; I don't know a lot about other brands.

  • If you're running out of space, 2TB HDDs are pretty cheap and reliable these days. Here's a Seagate one, although I couldn't find Western Digital's equivalent for some reason.

  • I don't really know much about graphics cards other than they're hard to buy new these days. If you buy new, I can't recommend anything with less than 4GB of VRAM, because modern games are getting better at using it. If you buy used, try not to go less than 2GB. Other than that, pick what fits your budget and performance needs, and remember you dont have to run everything on max settings. Dropping the settings a little can allow older cards to still compete today. I still run a 7870 and haven't found any unplayable games yet; 99% of games I get a solid 60, and once I upgrade to an e3-1240v3 that's in the mail I expect that to go to 99.9%.

  • Make sure you have a good PSU. You can get really solid ones for $50 or less these days. Don't forget this one when upgrading your system, unless you already have a good PSU. This is the SeaSonic one I've been recommending a lot. Fully modular and 80 Plus Bronze seems pretty good to me. PSUs are a topic of a lot of controversy, though, so make sure to do your research.

  • Similarly, investing in a case you like will last you a long time and significantly improve a build's appearance. Not its frames, though, so this isn't a priority. Pick one with all the features you want, good cable management options, something you don't mind looking at, that kind of stuff. Look up a review (google "[case name] review") where someone builds a computer in it so you can get an idea of what kind of issues people run into when building in it and if those issues are dealbreakers for you.

  • Optical drives aren't really used this day but if you don't have one it can be worth it to pick one up. Blu-ray drives are getting cheaper, too. PCPartPicker -> optical drives -> filter by features -> sort by price.

  • Monitors I cant speak much on, but if you're gaming at all, get one that goes at least 120hz at its native resolution, and don't get one lower than 1080p. If you don't do any gaming, make sure you get an IPS panel. I personally can't recommend any resolution other than 1080p (1920x1080) because compatibility issues are annoying and most software is either designed to work at 1080p, or have workarounds to run at 1080p. 4k is the next jump worth taking since that seems to be the next big standard (again, in my opinion), but hardware is still a generation or two out from that being mainstream.

  • Multiple monitors are a thing. I don't think I can live with less than 3 monitors again. It's so nice to have a game on the center monitor, a webpage on the left, and a voip program on the right. You can kind of do this with window snapping, but, well, you can also do that with 3 monitors for much more information when you need it.

  • Invest in good network gear. I cannot stress this enough. It will cost a chunk of money but will make your life so much better. If you're renting a modem from your ISP, or your modem/router has your ISP's logo on it, you need to upgrade. I'm currently running the Netgear R7000. If you're on cable internet, get a Motorola SurfBoard and something like the R7000. If you're on DSL, there's a variant that has a phone jack for dialing in. If you have fiber, the ONT that you have isn't replaceable but it's probably fine (but you'll still want to replace the included router). For all of these, you'll probably need to look up a guide on switching and it will probably involve calling your ISP. Expect to spend $200ish on the equipment, but seriously, you won't be constantly rebooting your router, wondering why the WiFi isn't working this time, etc. And a good modem will let you know if it can contact the network or not so you'll know if the internet is actually out or not. And if you're renting a router, you'll save money in the long run.

  • If you're using WiFi, get a good network card. I saw this one linked on this subreddit the other day and it looks pretty good. I've personally found USB WiFi dongles unreliable, but YMMV.

  • Don't forget to upgrade your peripherals. Check out /r/mechanicalkeyboards, /r/steamcontroller (it's about more than just the Steam Controller there, the name is a little misleading TBH), and the YouTube channel Rocket Jump Ninja (he does mouse reviews). I think /r/emulation has had some good threads on controllers, too. There's fun stuff like Mayflash adapters for GameCube controllers, or you could pick up a bluetooth dongle for a DualShock 3 or DualShock 4 (or WiiMote passthrough in Dolphin). There's lots of fun to be had in the peripheral department.

    I think that's about everything. Let me know if I missed anything and I'll include it.

    edit: Updated some stuff and tried to include more details.
u/xtelosx · 26 pointsr/IAmA

This one is only $83 and I haven't had a single problem with it and it has 4.5 stars. I can replace it every year and break even. Everything beyond that is savings.

Edit... messed up the link :http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004XC6GJ0/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00

u/srhavoc · 25 pointsr/networking
u/Homeless_Pig · 25 pointsr/hardware

It would be much better to get a powerline adapter. It essentially allows you to use your power outlets as really long ethernet cables.

Here are some examples from Amazon: 1 2 3

I personally use the D-link ones, the speeds are much faster than Wireless.

u/FightingLight · 24 pointsr/techsupport

Ethernet over Power.

It's affordable and avoids running new wires.

u/Nonethewiserer · 23 pointsr/buildapc

Try wifi. I've been using it for a couple years on my desktop with 0 issue. Great speed and no connectivity problems.

You have to figure out what works in your setup. Many people recommend PCI adapters if you go wireless, but USB works fucking great for me. Very happy with this http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1418551585&sr=8-3&keywords=tp+link+wireless+adapter

u/ubrtnk · 22 pointsr/homeautomation

My router was having issues when I started doing HA stuff as well. All those Wemo switches and plugs + Chromecasts and Rokus overloaded my wifi router. I have a Netgear Nighthawk R7000 AC router. The router was having issues with all the wireless and DNS and DHCP requests. So I took a page from my professional side (I'm a Solutions Architect for an HPE partner) and separated out the functionality.

I bought a Ubiquiti Edge Router and have it doing my DNS and DHCP and just have my Nighthawk as an AP. This then set me up to do a multi-AP wireless system. With HA you want to plan your wifi for capacity not speed. A multi-node Access Point system with Google Wifi, Ubiquiti AC Pro or another AP company, you can grow your wireless as you need more capacity. It can be overkill, but I dont have wireless dropping anymore and speed with AC1300 is just fine.

u/Ennis_Ham · 22 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/ewleonardspock · 22 pointsr/GoogleWiFi

Wow, literally every comment in here so far is wrong...

Yes, OP, you can use the coax in your house for networking. What you’re looking for are MoCA adapters. I use them for backhaul between my pucks and they’re just as fast as Ethernet.

The only situation where they won’t work is if you have Satellite TV. DVB-T and MoCA don’t get along. If you have cable TV, though, you’ll be fine.

u/RiotFTW · 21 pointsr/buildapcsales

Nighthawk AC1750 router for 55 bucks! 55 off for prime day and 20 off with a coupon. Just picked one up.

u/King_Merx · 21 pointsr/PS4
u/zyck_titan · 20 pointsr/pcmasterrace

If I can make a recommendation;

Don't use the modem/router they provide to you, get a third-party Arris or other DOCSIS 3.0 Modem and a Wifi router (I like the Netgear Nighthawk series, but there are other great ones out there).

Yes this is more expensive initially than using the router they give you, but they also charge you equipment fees each month ($10 per month). So over time you will save money with these parts. Plus you own them and can take them with you when you move.

If this seems like it's too much hassle, go ahead and use the modem/router they provide to you.

u/warheat1990 · 19 pointsr/homelab

List:

  • ZTE F609 - GPON ONT from ISP, bridge mode and connected to pfsense.

  • Mikrotik CSS326-24G-2S+RM - Super budget 24 ports switch with basic features and 2 SFP+ ports for only $139 brand new, you just can't beat that price.

  • Ubiquiti Unifi AP AC Lite - To handle wireless devices in my house, to be honest I was very disappointed with the temp, it runs very hot and it's the reason why I didn't mount it on the ceiling. If I knew all Unifi AP runs this hot, I would've go with other brand. Many people have told me that it's fine, but mine reaches 70 degrees on idle (I live in place where it can reach almost 40 degrees) and if I mount it on the ceiling without proper ventilation, it probably can go up to 80-85 degrees and I've seen couple post on Ubqt forum that their AP melted due to the temperature.

  • Plugable 7 port USB hub - I have an unused spare. It's kinda expensive if you compare it to other cheap chinese crap but it doesn't backfeed power and super reliable, the other one is currently used to power my Pi2 24/7 for almost 2 years without single issue.

  • Deepcool cooler - Super old notebook cooler I found on my garage, currently use this to blow the hot air from Unifi AP until I finish my mod to mount 120mm fan on the ceiling so I can put my AP.

  • PC - Spec is G4400, Asrock H110M-HDV, PNY SSD CS1311 80GB, 2 WD hard drive 2TB, 8GB RAM, and 2x single NIC Intel PT Pro. This thing run Windows 10 and pfsense under Hyper-V (not a good idea I know). Also act as my media and storage server. I'm very surprised that this thing pulls less than 20w on idle!

  • Others - Old monitor I found in my garage, probably from Intel dual core era, some cheap landline phone, a bluetooth keyboard, and bluetooth mouse.

    All these only pull about 40w, my next upgrade is probably to invest in a decent rack so I can have a better cable management.
u/danhm · 19 pointsr/kodi

Raspberry Pi 2 Model B

Supports CEC. Comes with 4x USB 2.0 slots, an HDMI, quad core ARM A7 processor, 1 GB RAM, and an ethernet port. Also has GPIO pins but I don't know of any Kodi related uses for them. It is an extremely low power device (uses about $3 worth of electricity per year) and requires nothing to keep it cool (e.g., no fans blaring in the middle of your favorite movie).

Base cost is $35. Requires a microSD card, an HDMI cable, and a microUSB charger, all of which can be purchased for approximately $5 each. An existing microUSB charger, such as from your cell phone or a device like a Kindle or Chromecast can be used, of course. Optional components include a case ($10-$20 or 3D print your own), USB wifi dongle ($10+), and an external hard drive ($50+). A few companies put out bundles that include a Raspberry Pi board and various components such as this basic one and this more complete one. A wireless keyboard ($20+) can also be handy. Product links are provided as examples; there may be better deals or smarter purchases to be had.

You'll then want to use a minimalistic Linux distro such as OpenELEC or OSMC, both of which are designed specifically to run Kodi and have optimized builds for a Raspberry Pi. OpenELEC seems to be more popular and is what I use myself. Installation is easy -- you just download and write to your SD card (oh yeah, you might need an SD card reader, $5). If you'd like you can also install a "real" Linux distro and install Kodi in that as you would on a regular desktop computer. You can either store your media on an external hard drive connected to the Raspberry Pi or on a separate computer or NAS and share your files over your LAN.

Pros:

  • Cheap base cost
  • Low power
  • Very hands off after initial setup
  • CEC! Use your TV remote to control Kodi
  • Hardware decoding for h264
  • As it is full-fledged computer you can easily add in additional software such as emulators, a web browser, etc.
  • More of a DIY solution (may be a con)

    Cons:

  • A few plugins (typically they are Windows dependent) and more computationally intensive skins may not work
  • May get pricey if you need to buy all the separate components
  • Can not handle 10-bit x264 (aka Hi10p; rare outside of anime fansubs) or HEVC (aka h265) files.
  • No 4K output, max resolution is 1920x1200
  • More of a DIY solution (may be a pro)
u/0110010001100010 · 18 pointsr/homeautomation

Evening Tim,

My default suggestion is Ubiquiti gear. However something seems, very, very wrong with your network. You shouldn't have a device limit and I would pressure Asus for a fix. RMA it again and make them resolve the problem.

That being said, you said less than $200 so I will offer this:

https://smile.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeRouter-Advanced-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00YFJT29C

https://smile.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/

Little bit more upfront config. However you will be far happier with the results.

u/rmg22893 · 18 pointsr/HomeNetworking

If you get all those devices in one box, they're going to all be inferior to discrete solutions. And if one breaks, you're throwing away several perfectly functioning devices.

Edgerouter Lite 3-port: $95

Unifi AC-Lite: $86

TP-Link Gigabit Switch: $25

If you want to do cheap NAS, you might as well just share a drive on a desktop over the network.

u/NoleZack · 18 pointsr/buildapcsales

Netgear AC1750 for $54 w/ Coupon. This is not a bad deal for someone needing a newer router.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R2AZLD2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

u/nibbles_and_bits · 18 pointsr/techsupport

The IT department has their own DHCP server which assigns internal IP address for the devices on their network. The router also has a DHCP server, and it was probably configured. The problem here is that devices will connect to the router, get a valid IP from the router only, and not see school's network. It's a big problem.

The router can be configured (I believe) to forward on DHCP requests, but I think it's better that you get a simple 5-port switch. They might be able to provide such a thing (maybe not, given their unwillingness to help so far), or you could buy one for cheap.

So, I'd remove the router, tell them that you need a switch since you only have one port in the office and have x many devices that need to be connected. If they can't give you that, maybe just buy it.

u/dmgctrl · 18 pointsr/talesfromtechsupport

I run a ubiquiti edge router. I've been pretty pleased with it. I did Pfsense and a few other things as well.

u/Pyrohair · 18 pointsr/heroesofthestorm

You can buy extenders that run through the house's power lines. They're called "powerline adapters". I use them in my house with my roommates where I can't have a giant UTP cable from the switch to my machine.

Here's an example:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AWRUICG?keywords=powerline%20adapter&psc=1&qid=1457025049&ref_=sr_1_1&s=electronics&sr=1-1-spons

u/blazestorm_keebs · 18 pointsr/WindowsMR

Don't forget a Bluetooth adapter :)

u/akashik · 17 pointsr/geek

I can pretty much guarantee that's the case. I pay for 50/5 and as you can see it's right on the button with a little extra room on top.

This comes after the 'stealth upgrade' we got a few months ago - meaning, for the same price I used to get 25/5. A speedtest result would produce the same results, around 26/6 - what I paid for plus a little extra.

Comcast keeps a close eye on what the throttle speed is here.

My equipment is a self-bought DOCSIS 3.0 motorola modem hooked to an ASUS RT-N66U Dual-Band Wireless-N900 Gigabit Router so I know it's not my hardware preventing a higher speed.

u/goletaal · 15 pointsr/cordcutters

I splurged and got this guy.

Expensive, but if you can swing it, the range & performance are fantastic.

u/MoistSquid · 15 pointsr/softwaregore

Not OP, but we've deployed Ubiquiti products in a few of our enterprise customers and it is running great. I am not sure how much you already know about networking, but I'll explain for anyone else reading.

First, some background to fully understand what it is you are trying to do. The thing that most consumers call "routers" are really three things: a router, a switch, and an access point. TLDR the router portion is the thing that actually moves traffic between machines, the switch extends how many physical ethernet ports you have, and the access point gives you wifi.

The Ubiquiti Access Points (UAP) are just access points. You will still need a router to route traffic, and your consumer one will work just fine for most people. If you are looking to get something more SOHO, Ubiquiti also makes their own router/firewall (check out USG, or ideally EdgeRouter). For all intents and purposes, it is a pretty good idea to separate the roles of your network (physical appliances for the router, firewall, wireless, etc...), and you can have as many UAP's as you'd like for wireless. The UAP's run off of Ubiquiti's 24V Power-over-Ethernet (POE), which can be provided via a POE injector or with a Ubiquiti Switch (either Unifi or EdgeMax). So for a basic network, you'll disable the wireless functionality on your consumer router, and plug a UAP into a port (obviously you'll need to pass it through the POE injector first). Rinse and repeat for however many UAP's you want, maybe another one on the other side of the house for example.

The UAP is pretty useless on its own, though. It needs a piece of software called the Unifi Controller. The software is free, and you can run it on Windows, Linux, or with Ubiquiti's appliance called the Cloud Key. Within Unifi Controller, you'll setup the UAP's; e.g. setting the visible wifi name (SSID), security, channels, etc... It isn't too complicated, the interface is really intutive and anyone who is even slightly technical could figure it out. The controller also serves another really important feature, which is zero-handoff. As long as the controller is running, your device will connect to the access point with the best signal. This is the seamless switching you asked about.

Ubiquiti also is focused on mesh networking, although we are generally pretty against that for businesses for reliability reasons. Of course, the exception to that is Cisco Meraki, which is a hybrid that will self-heal. If you lie and say you are an IT professional, you can get a free Meraki with a 3 year license. Just make sure that you follow the rules.

As a note, I would stick to the UAP AC's. They are the newer version and run great. For consumers, the UAP-AC-LITE is going to work fine. Obviously there is more to networking and wireless solutions than what I went over here, but this is the general gist of it.

u/BeanerSA · 15 pointsr/buildapc

If it's short term, whatever is at least as fast as your internet connection. I'll assume you're in the US, so how about https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN722N/dp/B002SZEOLG

u/LemonLimeAlltheTime · 15 pointsr/buildapc

Do yourself a HUGE favor and get yourself an Ethernet Powerline Adapter.

It sounds expensive but you can get a decent one for $20 $36 and it works great! My Wi-Fi speeds were 1/10th of what I get with the adapter.

u/Weebber · 15 pointsr/gadgets

The AP you have specified is 802.11bgn only so its not a fair comparison. To be more equitable you should specify this AP which is 802.11a/b/g/n/ac. ($82.35 each)

Plus no one should be buying an AP in today's wireless world that doesn't have a 5GHz radio. 2.4GHz is overcrowded, interference laden shit and should be steered away from wherever possible.

u/poppopretn · 14 pointsr/homelab

Inventory:

pfSense:
Snort, pfBlockerNG, OpenVPN, Squid, ClamAV, Default deny ingress/egress FW, etc.

ZOTAC ZBOX NUC

Kingston 120GB SSD

Crucial 8GB DDR3L RAM

ESXi Hypervisor:

Skull Canyon NUC

32GB DDR4 RAM

Samsung 950 Pro 512GB M.2 SSD

Virtual Machines I'm currently running.

Splunk - Receives my FW, DNS, Snort, and OSSEC logs. I have dashboards to filter this data.

Snorby - Also receives my Snort logs. I like this a little better than Splunk as I can view packet contents.

OSSEC - I used this for file integrity and endpoint monitoring on my servers and desktop. Functions as a host based IDS.

Nessus - I use this every once in a while to see if there are any open holes. Otherwise, I just use nmap and iptables to close everything off.

Unifi Controller - for managing my AP.


Wireless:

Ubiquiti Unifi AP-AC Lite


Switch:

TP-LINK 8-Port Gigabit L2 Switch

RetroPi + Monitor:

RPi3

10.1 Inch IPS HDMI Monitor


My VMs, configs, and files are backed up to a HDD I keep offline. I'm thinking about adding a NAS into the mix for somewhere around 200-400 dollars. Low energy consumption preferably if anyone had any recommendations. :)

u/DoctorSteve · 14 pointsr/nexus4

I'm guessing you're still on Wireless-G for your Wifi. That's your bottleneck. Plug a computer into the router and see the speeds it achieves.

I bought myself a brand new router and I pull down 40mbps throughout the house.

http://www.amazon.com/RT-N66U-Dual-Band-Wireless-N900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B006QB1RPY

u/ShevElev · 14 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

My router has a way to limit bandwidth speed for certain devices for certain hours. I imagine many do.

u/imakepr0ngifs · 14 pointsr/HowToHack

Oh they’re connected to wifi?

I would set up a rouge wifi access point with same SSID and password as the existing one. If you need the password, you can dump it from the computer you have access to. Then you can send a single deauthentication packet to the MAC address for the target computer until it chooses your network (this is not a denial of service as you are forcing his computer to connect through your lab computer, which is still connected to the network)

From there, you can do network captures and control DNS. Do a network capture of port 80 (unecrypted) and DNS requests. He likely has software that automatically checked for software updates over HTTP (VLC does this, among others) every time he starts it.

Alternatively, you can rewrite a DNS request to cause windows to pop up a native windows login window via captive portal (the pop up you see at starbucks wifi)

Documentation here: https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/drivers/mobilebroadband/captive-portals#cch

All in all, wifi makes things a lot easier. If you have an atheros/other wireless usb handy you can do all of this in ~15min or less.

Here’s the model I use:
TP-Link 150Mbps High Gain Wireless USB Adapter for PC and Laptops (TL-WN722N) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NC40CbD87F441

It’s $15 and even if you don’t succeed, you’ll never have crappy wifi on campus again. I have 3 in my bag right now.

u/HybridCamRev · 14 pointsr/videography

/u/BigOleBallsack - I would get neither. With a $5000 budget, unless you need to take still photos, I recommend an interchangeable lens Super 35 camcorder instead.

By the time you buy ND filters, an XLR audio solution with decent preamps and rigging (e.g., a top handle) to compensate for the GH5's or the A7s II's still camera ergonomics - you might as well buy a real video camera.

In your price range, I recommend a [$2595 Super 35 4K JVC LS300] (https://www.amazon.com/JVC-GY-LS300CHU-Ultra-Camcorder-Handle/dp/B00USBVISE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?m=A17MC6HOH9AVE6&s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1487897950&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) with a [$399 Metabones Canon to micro 4/3 autofocusing adapter] (https://www.amazon.com/Metabones-Smart-Adapter-Thirds-Camera/dp/B014C1BF7O//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) and something like a [$799 Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 lens] (https://www.amazon.com/Sigma-18-35mm-F1-8-Lens-Canon/dp/B00DBL0NLQ//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20).

The LS300 has these features that still cameras lack:

u/EpiclyEpicEthan1 · 14 pointsr/homelab

Raspberry Pi 3

Raspberry Pi Clear Case

32GB MicroSD Card

Netatmo Weather Station

Wind Gauge

Rain Gauge

Rain/Wind Gauge mounts

3 Way HDMI Switch

1FT HDMI Cable

Wifi Adapter

Everything is attached to the back of the television with some double sided sticky paper things i had lying around. Anything will probably work.

The USB wall outlet is one that delivers 3.1A at 5V that we bought from our local hardware store.

The server that the software runs on is a poweredge r710 with dual x5670s and 64GB of ram. Of course, this isnt all it does, but it is one of the many things i host on it. :)

If you'd like, i can post the scripts i wrote for it as well.

u/Pyromonkey83 · 14 pointsr/buildapc

There are quite a few options out there, and it really depends on what your focus is. Do you have multiple 802.11 AC devices, or are most still on the N band? Do you game, and if so, do you plan on doing so hardwired or wireless (obviously I recommend wired if you can, but not everyone has this option)? How large is your living space, and are you in a house with few wireless points around or in an apartment with tons of wireless congestion around?

For everyday use that will serve you well all around with solid 802.11AC performance, I'd recommend the Asus RT-AC68U. FYI on this one, Amazon currently has it listed for WAY above what most retail shops are at. I've seen them recently as low as $115-130. Probably worth surfing around for a better price (FYI - if you have a Micro Center near you, they have it on sale right now for $140).

If you game heavily, and it is a big part of your daily life, the Netgear R7000p Nighthawk router is well worth the additional cost. I've seen this go as low as $140 in the past, but its far more often closer to the current price of $180.

Finally, if these are too far out of your price range, that's totally understandable. For a budget pick, the TPLink Archer C7 is an excellent all around router especially for the low cost. The major downsides of going with a budget router is the lack of good QOS (quality of service) tools to manage bufferbloat and latency for gaming, and slower processors that can harm large file transfers over a network or multiple devices at the same time. It all depends on your usage.

One final note - Comcast's device is often a modem AND router in one. Do you have a Docsis 3.0/3.1 modem already that you will be using with this, or do you need to purchase one of those as well? You can not use one or the other, you must have both (unless only hardwiring to one PC, with no wifi).

u/xman65 · 14 pointsr/cordcutters

I have a Surfboard 6183 I got from Amazon. I am using a Ubiquiti EdgeRouter-X for routing and firewall. A pair of Ubiquiti WAPs provide wireless service.

u/ppeatrick · 13 pointsr/HomeNetworking

You will NOT be disappointed with a UAP-AC-Lite. Just mount it on the ceiling, in a centrally located space in your home, preferably on the top level and enjoy the best WiFi you never thought was possible. I used to insist on wiring up everything with Gbps Ethernet, simply for the improved latency, but this access point has caused me to be lazy these days. We've had zero issues streaming 4K content out to the very edges of 2.4GHz band in an environment with moderate interference and there's regularly ~30 devices connected at all times across a couple SSIDs each on its own VLAN.

It's hard to describe how much better the experience is coming from the usual consumer grade stuff. $80 and can be powered (via PoE injector) from a single cable:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015PR20GY/

u/creepykirk · 13 pointsr/howto

I have an ASUS wireless router that has USB ports on the back that support a hard drive or printer that can be shared on the network. This is a good option and it works well.

u/superdude905 · 13 pointsr/techsupport

Just get a switch you can plug your one cable into it and get 4 outputs to use with multiple devices at the same time they are very inexpensive

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Ethernet-Splitter-Unmanaged-TL-SF1005D/dp/B000FNFSPY/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2X1SVHFP32ZQ5&keywords=internet+switch&qid=1572908119&sprefix=internet+swi%2Caps%2C151&sr=8-5

u/Dark_Shroud · 13 pointsr/news

I would suggest the latest model 8 downstream channel model. Just so you won't have to upgrade agian for several years to a decade.

http://smile.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SurfBoard-SB6141-DOCSIS/dp/B00AJHDZSI

Edit 1;

Well I just found an even newer model not listed in my search for some reason.

Here is the full list to make is simple for everyone:

4 channel http://smile.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SB6121-SURFboard-DOCSIS/dp/B004XC6GJ0

8 channel http://smile.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SurfBoard-SB6141-DOCSIS/dp/B00AJHDZSI

Here is the latest 16 channel now available good for up to 700 Mbps or a couple hundred if they are capping channels. http://smile.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SurfBoard-SB6183-DOCSIS/dp/B00MA5U1FW

Edit 2;

Fixed my links that weren't working and updated to the smile charity option.

If you have a digital phone service through your cable company you'll need this unit. Just make sure your company supports this unit before buying it. Check out the comments, questions, & reviews on the page for more information.

Arris TM822G Touchstone® DOCSIS 3.0 8x4 Ultra-High Speed Telephony Modem:

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00721TUNS

u/Asch3nd · 13 pointsr/personalfinance

One huge thing for me was stopping myself (and my parents) from spending ~$10/month on a cable internet modem rental through Comcast. If anyone has comcast I highly recommend you just get one of these (they are very highly rated):

For internet speeds less than ~150mbps: http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6121-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B004XC6GJ0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449495356&sr=8-1&keywords=motorola+sb+6121

For internet speeds greater than ~150mbps: http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6141-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B00AJHDZSI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449495487&sr=8-1&keywords=motorola+sb6141

NOTE: If they are close in price whenever you look at these amazon links, get the sb6141. It'll future proof you for a few years at least.

u/deathbyearthworm · 12 pointsr/PFSENSE

You really don't want your router doing wireless, it is preferable to have a dedicated Access Point (AP) doing wireless. Unfortunately what people think of "routers" now are actually three devices in one, they are a router, switch (multiple lan ethernet ports), and access point (wireless). Personally I feel the combo devices do a bad job at all three of those which is why I prefer to have dedicated devices for each piece. If you plan on using an existing router and just want wireless I would suggest the unifi ac lite access point.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY

If you need a router as well then I would use the access point and pfsense for your router. You could use a wired nic like this in an existing computer.

https://www.amazon.com/Intel-1000-Dual-Server-Adapter/dp/B000BMZHX2/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1527380550&sr=1-3&keywords=intel+dual+gigabit

Pfsense does support wireless cards but trust me you don't want to go down that road for many reasons. Any time that topic comes up most users on this subreddit suggest against it myself included. I have tried building wireless into my pfsense build before and quickly abandoned it.

u/honestFeedback · 12 pointsr/Chromecast

Hi. I don't really follow the religious part of this but I'm interested in understanding it. Is this part of the concept where you can't use machinery on the sabbath, as this guy is controlling your TV making you either have it on all day, or break you religious obligations by turning it off?

That was just for my interest. He's a dick regardless of that for a) controlling your chromecast and b) sticking his nose in your religion.

As said elsewhere here - maybe look into getting another router. Maybe this one. Allows you to connect the router to your current wifi, and set-up a private network from that that your neighbour won't be able to use.

u/infeststation · 12 pointsr/tmobile
  • If you're on T-mobile One, enable Kickback on all your lines. That will get you a $10 credit for every line that uses less than 2gb.

  • I'm not sure if they're still doing it, but if you go to your local T-Mobile store, you can get a free "CellSpot" router. It's a rebranded Asus router and it's pretty kickass.

  • If you're interested in Sling TV, they offer a 30% off promo to T-Mobile customers.

  • I would uninstall/disable all of the T-mobile apps you can except for visual voicemail. It's name tells you what it does, but it simply lets you listen to your voicemails without having to call. My T-mobile and Device Unlock cannot be disabled, but the rest can.

  • Samsung and T-Mobile are running a promo that will get you a free VR for purchasing the S8. They're also offering a free entertainment kit that you can redeem in the Shop Samsung app.
u/codyave · 11 pointsr/Bitcoin

do you mind if i link your amazon referrals from youtube?

Raspberry Pi Model B Revision 2.0 (512MB) $42.88

WiFi Dongle $9.99

16 GB SD Card $12.98

also, would it be all right to link to your bitcointalk thread?

good luck with your project!

u/DickLunchBox · 11 pointsr/technology

I bought this one

It has worked flawlessly for me.

u/roo-ster · 11 pointsr/WarOnComcast

The solution to this is simple. Buy a $70 DOCSIS 3.0 modem and a $120 or less wireless router. Return your equipment to Comcast and KEEP THE RECEIPT.

u/costantinea · 11 pointsr/WindowsMR



Beginners Help:

  1. Run the VR compatibility check: https://store.steampowered.com/search/?snr=1_4_4__12&term=steam+WMR+performce+test

  2. Upgrade to Windows 10 version 1809:
    https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10

  3. Load Steam VR: https://store.steampowered.com/app/250820/

  4. Load STEAM WMR: https://store.steampowered.com/app/719950/

  5. Bluetooth: For all but Samsung Odyssey HMD+, be sure your computer has a Bluetooth capability to talk to the hand controllers. If capability is not built in, buy a Bluetooth dongle and plug it into a USB 2 port. AND, if possible place this in an USB 2 port that is away from the Headset connection to the computer --- perhaps the front of the computer. Known to work (Plugable Bluetooth 4.0 low energy.): https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Bluetooth-Adapter-Raspberry-Compatible/dp/B009ZIILLI

  6. Pair your controllers:
    https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/mixed-reality/enthusiast-guide/set-up-windows-mixed-reality#set-up-your-motion-controllers

  7. Play Space: be sure you clear plenty of space. If you are 6 foot, you need a nine foot ceiling. You can break controllers, your hands, or TVs etc. if you do not have enough space.

  8. Games: start with free, and check STEAM for the MOST played.


    Consider:

    a. The Lab

    b. Rec Room

    c. Google Earth

    d. You Tube

    e. Beat Saber

    f. Elven Assassin

    g. Arizona Sunshine

    h. Gorn

    i. Pavlov

  9. Buy rechargeable batteries: highly rated from IKEA
    https://www.amazon.com/Ikea-ladda-Battery-rechargeable-2450/dp/B01MQ0U97A/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1544531944&sr=8-4&keywords=ikea+rechargeable+batteries#customerReviews
u/CBRjack · 11 pointsr/wireless

Don't go with repeaters. What you should get is a wireless bridge. This will act just like a wire, allowing you to install an access point in the Hall with the same SSID and password (for roaming).

Repeaters cut the speed in half. Having several in succession means there will be nothing left at the other end.

Have a look at Ubiquiti Nanobeam AC. These will act just like if it was a long wire. You will be able to get a very good connection and the speed won't suffer. They are rated up to 15km, so 450 ft is nothing for them.

Install one on the church, one on the hall, and then get a nice access point for the hall, like the Ubiquiti Unifi AP AC Lite.

They aren't too expensive and should fit well in your budget. Amazon.com has them for $90 each. For the AP, Amazon.com has them for $82. If the hall is large, you could get a switch and 2-3 APs to get a good coverage.

Total cost for 2 nanobeam and an AP : $262
Total cost for 2 nanobeam, a switch and 3 APs : $454

u/KeyserSOhItsTaken · 11 pointsr/gadgets

I have the Dark Knight version.

u/ChingChong_DingDong · 11 pointsr/Chromecast

I would go with the ASUS RT-N66U it is a great router and excellent range.
Amazon!

u/abovocipher · 11 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Obviously you can use whatever, but these are what I used for this project. I bought the 2 pin power ports off of Ebay. For the NES case, try searching "Broken NES" on ebay and you should be able to find some. Or use an entirely different shell and post it!

u/Xagon14 · 11 pointsr/shittybattlestations

I will list all parts I used to get it in a functioning state along with the price I got them for.

  • RPi - $35 + ~$10 shipping

  • Broken portable DVD player (reader was busted, not screen) - Free

  • Composite wire that came with DVD player - Free

  • Cheap USB wifi adapter - $10

  • SD card that came with my camera - Free

  • Wireless keyboard/trackpad combo - $16

  • My phone charger - Free

    Overall comes out to about $80 after taxes.
u/thaweatherman · 10 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Seconded. I use Arlo and love it. Decent price point, good mobile app, usable browser app. Small (easy to hide), completely wireless, and you can get different skins to camouflage the outdoor ones. Up to 5 cameras can be used on a free plan. If you'd like, OP, I recently wrote up a decent wall of text about Arlo and can send it to you.

EDIT: I'll just post the wall here.

_____

Here's some more information about Arlo to help you out.

5 wire-free cameras + base station ($630) - https://www.amazon.com/Arlo-Security-Surveillance-Outdoor-VMS3530-100NAS/dp/B01CT6VOAW/ref=pd_sbs_421_1?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01CT6VOAW&pd_rd_r=ST6WJ3DCWE0Y7EGRWS34&pd_rd_w=uy9oi&pd_rd_wg=7FNzz&psc=1&refRID=ST6WJ3DCWE0Y7EGRWS34

other camera bundles are on that listing as well. 4 camera bundle for $499, 3 camera bundle for $419, 2 camera bundle for $299, 1 camera kit for $173.99, plus a couple other options. i would say to just get the 5 camera bundle and don't bother with the arlo q if you're only worried about the outside of the house. the add-on cameras are on sale right now for $145 instead of $160, so if you want more than 5 then now is the time to buy!

3 silicone skins ($24.99) - https://www.amazon.com/Arlo-Smart-Security-Silicone-Wire-Free/dp/B016D0O10U/ref=pd_sim_421_2?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B016D0O10U&pd_rd_r=EXQYGG3TDFGC05X6AHD6&pd_rd_w=C2Jxo&pd_rd_wg=MoyX4&psc=1&refRID=EXQYGG3TDFGC05X6AHD6

i like the black skins for the cameras i put outside. if they are on a white background though (maybe the house is painted white where you mount it) then the skins would make it stand out more. since mine are in trees i like the black.


indoor/outdoor mount (black) ($19.99) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D2PHVS8

also has the white version, the standard wall mounts the cameras come with (maybe you want multiple mounts for a single camera so you can move it around), and the table/ceiling mount.



as for the cameras themselves, they are weatherproof and can operate between 14 and 122 degrees F (https://community.netgear.com/t5/Arlo-Knowledge-Base/Are-Arlo-cameras-weatherproof/ta-p/1705). the batteries are the limiting factor as they stop functioning properly outside of those ranges. it should be noted that below freezing temperatures will reduce battery life significantly, but the cameras will still operate down to 14F (https://community.netgear.com/t5/Arlo-Knowledge-Base/How-can-I-extend-my-Arlo-Wire-Free-camera-s-battery-life/ta-p/291).

the cameras should be at least 10 feet away from the base station and can be up to 300 feet away. walls and barriers limit distance a bit, but the LEDs on the cameras and base station can let you know if there is a connection problem (https://community.netgear.com/t5/Arlo-Knowledge-Base/How-far-can-I-place-my-Arlo-Wire-Free-cameras-from-the-base/ta-p/35).

you can have a max of 15 cameras attached to one base station, but only 5 can all be streaming at the same time (https://community.netgear.com/t5/Buying-Options-Tips/How-many-cameras-can-one-base-station-handle/td-p/1063320). you can also add base stations to extend your range.

finally, subscriptions (https://community.netgear.com/t5/Arlo-Knowledge-Base/What-are-the-available-Arlo-subscription-plans-and-how-much/ta-p/88). 5 cameras + 7 days cloud storage/1 GB of video for free; 10 cameras + 30 days of recordings/10 GB of video for $10/month or $99/year; 15 cameras + 60 days of recordings/100 GB of video for $15/month or $149/year. if you get an arlo q, you can purchase a 24/7 continuous video recording (CVR) feature for $10/month or $99/year for 14 days or double that for 30 days, all per camera. unfortunately you can only watch these videos from the cloud: they can't be downloaded.

if you want to save your videos, you have to download them yourself and store them. videos are cycled out every 7/30/60 days depending on your plan. there is no undelete, so if you delete something, it's gone, and if they delete something, it's gone.

arlo provides useful help videos for setting up the system and debugging any possible problems (https://www.arlo.com/en-us/support/). there are recommended heights/angles for the cameras and that's all addressed in the videos.

if you happen to own a netgear nighthawk router, you might be able to use that as a base station instead of buying a bundle with a base station. you can also still get the base station and use that to extend the range for cameras you might want to place far from the house. if you don't already have that router and want a good upgrade, i highly recommend it (https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00F0DD0I6/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1474291904&sr=1-1&keywords=netgear+nighthawk). i don't have mine set up currently, but it's a good machine. if your existing router works fine, then no need to spend the money!

it should be noted that if you want more than 5 cameras but dont want to pay the subscription fees, you can simply make a second account with a second base station and link up to 5 cameras to that. then you have two free accounts, but you do also have to sign in and out with each to check cameras, which can become cumbersome.

u/TheWhiteRebbit · 10 pointsr/VPN

It is much cheaper to flash the firmware by yourself on a router that supports Tomato or DDR- WRT and then use the built in VPN client.

For that money the flash routers are a scam: They charge you e.g. USD 349.99 for the netgear nighthawk r700:
https://www.flashrouters.com/blog/2016/02/03/the-best-tomato-routers-of-2016/

On Amazon you can buy it for 159.00 USD: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Gigabit-Support/dp/B00F0DD0I6

How to install and set up Tomato:

https://www.privateinternetaccess.com/pages/client-support/tomato-vpn

https://www.howtogeek.com/59152/boost-networking-performance-by-installing-tomato-on-your-router/

u/OSUTechie · 10 pointsr/techsupport

From the information you have provided, your router does not have QoS settings. So here are a few options:

0.) Contact ATT and see if they have a higher-end modem/router that supports QoS.

IF ATT doesn't have one, then you can do the following.

1.) Purchase a router that supports QoS - TP-LINK TL-WR841N Wireless N300 Home Router or NetGear NightHawk
1a.) If you have an older wireless router lying around, you can install DDRT and/or Tomato on it. However, you may also be limited to lower speeds.
2.) Set your 2Wire to Bridge Mode.
3.) You can copy your settings (manually) from the 2Wire over to the new router, so you do not have to go through the hassle of handing out WPA2 keys and SSIDs to all the machines again. As long as the SSID and the WPA2 key are the same, the machines should automatically join.
4.) Follow the manual for which ever router you got to enabled QoS.
4a.) If you want to setup static IPAs for your all your devices you can.
5.) Buy some decent sound-canceling headphones so you do not have to hear your sister complain and whine about slow internet speeds. ;)

u/SofaAssassin · 10 pointsr/firstworldproblems

I'll cover a few options based on price and level of technical knowledge needed.

For T-Mobile Customers


If you're a subscriber of T-Mobile, I'd recommend taking advantage of their Wi-Fi CellSpot loaner program for a $25 deposit.

This program gets you a T-Mobile optimized router, which is a modified version of the
$100+ Asus RT-AC68U.

It is missing some options from the stock Asus unit but still has options for stuff like bandwidth prioritization and QoS (the thing is also preconfigured to give high priority to wi-fi phone calls).

User-friendly Options


  • TP-Link Archer C7

    This costs about $80-90 and is probably the best overall option for anyone that wants a decent wireless router that has a lot of useful options. It lets you specify bandwidth settings that apply to an entire guest network (both upload/download speeds), as well as limit bandwidth to specific devices. This unit is generally recommended by r/homenetworking for a cheap, decent router, and by Wirecutters.

  • D-Link DIR-880L

    Roughly $100 - I used to use D-Link wireless routers and they are easy to use and I have . This model can also be loaded with DD-WRT if you're so technically inclined. DD-WRT is an open-source firmware that can be loaded onto a variety of routers that gives a lot of options for power users. The default firmware will still have options to control bandwidth and QoS, so you won't need any advanced special firmware.

    More Technical Options


    If you want to learn some slightly more advanced configuration, one of the most price-accessible options is a Ubiquiti EdgeRouter X combined with a Ubiquiti AC Lite wireless AP. This combination costs roughly $120-130, but it is better than similarly priced (or even more expensive) home consumer combination wireless routers and provide a lot of options and features.

    You can traffic shape at the EdgeRouter X, so you can do things like limit the bandwidth provided to the wireless network to begin with, or limit it to certain clients. You could also do limiting at the AC Lite access point and create a special group of users (basically, login information) with limitations on that group.

    The ERX can handle an ISP connection of probably up to 900 Mbps, though I have no first-hand confirmation of this as my home connection is 200/10. I've been running the ER-X and UniFi AC Lite at home for about two years with no problems, and fairly heavy internet use.

    However, if you just need a relatively easy consumer router, go with the easier options.

u/lobehold · 10 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

A heads-up - this is selling at the same price on Amazon.ca at the moment with free shipping.

u/wanderingbilby · 10 pointsr/HomeNetworking

There are APs that have some switch capability, but most of them are enterprise level. You can put a router into AP mode and it may also switch locally, or you can install an open source OS on a router and set it up that way - but it's going to have more poor performance than a stand-alone switch or AP.

u/lmm7425 · 10 pointsr/Ubiquiti

I think it's only a difference of $50, not $120. But personally, the standard POE on the PRO is worth it.
Lite
Pro

u/dweezil22 · 10 pointsr/HomeNetworking

To add some details for OP. All they need is a simple cheap unmanaged switch. They should be able to get that for under $25. Here's one at Amazon for $20: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Ethernet-Optimization-Unmanaged-TL-SG108/dp/B00A121WN6

At my house I have the following at the moment:

  • Fios ONT

  • Ubiquiti Edgerouter-X, connecting to the following things via Cat5e cable:

  1. UAC LR (to cover most of my house)

  2. UAC Lite (on a cable run up to the top floor of my house to cover the upstairs)

  3. Google Voice VOIP box

  4. 12 port unmanaged switch to go to all the other ethernet jacks around my house

    Now some of those ethernet jacks are in locations where I have multiple wired devices (like my office or home entertainment center). In each of those places I have a second $20 unmanaged switch that I use to turn that single jack into multiple wired spots.

    Unmanaged switches are cheap, incredibly easy to setup (literally just plug them in) and high performance, you can basically use them as an ethernet splitter. You do NOT want to use a router in place of them for no reason, as the router's going to bring a bunch of network complexity and isolation that you neither need nor want.

    TL;DR Unmanaged switches are neat
u/aakksshhaayy · 10 pointsr/PFSENSE

The unifi ac-lite is $81 on amazon so out of your budget but it's just barely enough to cover my small ass apt.. your house is smaller than this?

u/BlueEyesLotus · 10 pointsr/HomeNetworking

You can't use an "Ethernet splitter" but you can buy a small home switch.

You can get them for under 30$ at your local electronics store or on amazon.

I'd suggest a model like this one.

u/svideo · 10 pointsr/hardware

Processing packets at gbit speed without dedicated switch hardware isn't likely to happen at a $35 price point for a while yet.

UBNT makes a $50 unit that can do it, but they do so with dedicated hardware to offload packet processing.

u/wally_z · 9 pointsr/homelab

Personally, I'm a fan of Ubiquiti's EdgeRouters. Honestly, I haven't had any experience with other routers (minus crappy consumer grade Netgear and Buffalo), but the EdgeRouters can still do a lot.

It's got a full GUI, you can SSH, TELNET I believe, SNMP, etc.

Another option is to build your own with PfSense, which is very much in depth but it's got quite a learning curve (at least for me). If you're willing to put in the time and effort, this is the way to go.

Also, I'm sure you know this by now but these are only routers, you'll need a wireless AP to go with these.

Edgerouter:
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeRouter-Advanced-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00YFJT29C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1511763952&sr=8-2&keywords=ubiquiti+edgerouter

PfSense:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RrQrt8r_uYg
https://www.pfsense.org/

u/iHelp101 · 9 pointsr/perktv

All the links contain affiliate links (tag=lx7-20&linkId=fe646f143f52bb0de1504aa396676d4e). Unaffiliated links are below. The user has posted affiliate links before, so I believe this is not an "Oops" mistake. The users also posted this in Beermoney as well, but it was removed because of the affiliate links included.
_____
Access Point - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRO512/

Router - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YFJT29C

Powerline Adapter - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EE9APYS

Modem -https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016PE1X5K

Ethernet Cables - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E5I7VJG


u/wickedcoddah · 9 pointsr/RetroPie

Parts List:

Power Adapter

Raspberry Pi

USB Super Nintendo Controller (This is the best one I have found so far)

HDMI Cable

WiFi Dongle

Other Items you will need:

USB Keyboard

Monitor or TV with HDMI Support




Now you dont have to use these parts exactly, there are plenty of other parts you can use. I am pretty sure that you can play Roms up to Playstation 1.



There is also a new Raspberry Pi 3 that is compatible with the RetroPie software which has WiFi and Bluetooth integrated into the board.

Helpful Video's to tackle technical issues with your RetroPie:

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLtht1mv6ty8xMBwgHX9RCkplqeSRxyHiC




Here is the Case I found on Etsy. There are plenty of other sellers but this guy was great!

u/whosywhat · 9 pointsr/gadgets

There are USB wifi adapters for Raspberry Pi that cost less than half that:

http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY

u/hcweb · 9 pointsr/raspberry_pi

The items used:

Raspberry PI Zero <- Bougth mine at local store.

http://amzn.com/B00S82B0VA <- Karaoke Mixer

http://amzn.com/B00SNLIG5O <- 128GB SD Card for storage

http://amzn.com/B001MSS6CS <- USB Audio Card

http://amzn.com/B003MTTJOY <- Wifi Adapter

http://amzn.com/B005HKIDF2 <- Usb Hub

A total of around ~$90



Edit

If a mic is needed that add $20
http://amzn.com/B003GEBGA0 <- Mic

u/brna767 · 9 pointsr/technology

It is as simple as screwing in the coax cable into the modem and picking up the phone and reading comcast the "MAC" number on the back of the router.

Here is a good one comcast accepts - http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SB6121-SURFboard-DOCSIS/dp/B004XC6GJ0/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1409477977&sr=1-1&keywords=comcast+modem

If you want to go a step further, pick up a router that accepts tomato firmware and get that going.

u/rem87062597 · 9 pointsr/weekendgunnit

Modem

WiFi

Don't pay Comcast for modem rental, just buy your own and break even in under a year. Setup is easy. Rentals are a ripoff.

u/Andrew129260 · 9 pointsr/PS4

There is no such thing as a "gaming" router or modem. All of that is marketing fluff.


Having both your own router and modem is a good idea. See here for good examples:

(I am assuming your USA)

Modem:

MOTOROLA 16x4 Cable Modem, Model MB7420, DOCSIS 3.0. Approved by Comcast Xfinity, Cox, Charter Spectrum, Time Warner Cable, and More. Downloads 686 Mbps Maximum (No WiFi) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A1E6BA2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_S9xKCbK9FCPTA

Router:


NETGEAR R6700 Nighthawk AC1750 Dual Band Smart WiFi Router, Gigabit Ethernet (R6700) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R2AZLD2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_qgyKCbRJE7W46

Wired is always better than wireless. However, if wired is not possible, position the router close to the device and use the 5g band. This is the closest thing to wired on a wireless connection.

u/DZCreeper · 9 pointsr/sysadmin

Alright, best case scenario time.

For a heavy workload you want 15 or less clients per access point. You can do up to 30 per AP but performance drops off quickly.

At minimum you will need 5 AP's. 10 is going to be far more realistic.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512

Even an entry level pro-consumer radio like the UAP-AC-PRO is $137 a piece. So almost $1400 already.

Beefy edge router and a switch will also be on the shopping list. Sticking with theme of Ubiquiti for this theoretical build:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Edgerouter-Router-ERPro-8/dp/B00IA5J8M8

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Edgeswitch-Gigabit-ES-24-LITE/dp/B012GUVIY8

$530. Of course, this gear is so popular because that price is considered rock bottom if you ask anyone that works with Cisco gear.

Now, the real cost of this build is the client adapters. With 10 AP's you have 10 clients per AP and each AP has 3 streams available so your clients should have matching adapters. 1300Mbps is the theoretical maximum but you can't have that because wi-fi is half duplex, and then halve it again because you aren't testing in a Faraday cage. So 325mb/s is a reasonable expectation for a single client on an unloaded AP. With 10 clients joined you might get closer to 500mb/s total.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
Wireless Network Adapter | TP-Link Archer T9E PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | $79.99 @ Best Buy
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $79.99
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-05 19:37 EDT-0400 |

Oh dear me. $8000 in wireless adapters. Plus that $1730 in networking gear. Add a thousand more for the time it will take to get the hardware installed.

Now go ahead and break down the cost of Cat6 cabling plus enough switch ports for your clients. Multiply it by .5 to account for how much faster and lower latency a wired network will be. CAD files are usually a bit large, I'm sure it will be noticed.



u/SirEDCaLot · 9 pointsr/Ubiquiti

That link is NOT the UAP-AC-Pro. It's the older UAP-Pro, which is an 802.11n only product. You do NOT want that one.

You want this one: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512/

That's the new UAP-AC-Pro. It's $130ish. It supports 802.11ac (3x3 antennas) and true 802.3af PoE.

The UAP-AC-Lite is around $80ish as I recall. It also supports 802.11ac but with only 2x2 antennas, and it uses special 24v passive PoE so you have to use the Ubiquiti injector or a special Ubiquiti switch.

The difference between real PoE and passive PoE is that real 802.3af PoE has a handshake sequence for safety. When you plug an 802.3af device into a compatible switch, the device signals that it needs PoE power and then the power flow is turned on. This prevents damage to non-PoE devices.

Passive PoE just means that power is sent down the line without consideration for what's on the other end. If you plug a non-PoE device into a Passive PoE port, that non-PoE device will receive PoE and will usually be damaged or destroyed as a result.

Please note that the injectors included with either device are passive. IE, the UAP-AC-Pro's included injector is JUST an injector, no handshake.

The best way to do things is to get a real PoE switch like a Ubiquiti US-8-150W or a Netgear GS110TP, and the Ubiquiti UAP-AC-Pro.

However if this is the only PoE device that you have or will have, then you're fine to just buy the Lite and use the power injector... just be careful which port goes where :)

u/fuzzyspudkiss · 9 pointsr/techsupport

First of all, its not really fair for you to limit your sister's videos to 480p so you can play OW without lag. You should both be able to share the internet, just because you see your usage as more important doesn't mean it is.

Now that that's out of the way, I'm guessing that your main issue is that you are trying to game over WiFi, as you said Ethernet's not an option. I would place most of the blame on one of two things, either you've got a shitty router that cant handle a lot of traffic and is causing latency OR you internet speeds are sub 25MB/s.

Option 1, shitty router: Without knowing the specs for your router I cant tell you for certain if this is the issue but streaming media does consume a fair amount of clock cycles and if its an older router (especially a cheaper model of older router) they are not built to handle that sort of traffic. A new Wireless AC router should be able to handle that traffic easily, I really like the ASUS RT-AC68U. ASUS in general has a very friendly router interface. To utilize AC performance, you may need to buy a new wireless adapter for your PC as well but your current one will connect via N.

Option 2, slow internet: With the above mentioned AC router you can implement QoS, without paying for faster internet this is the only way to resolve your issue. As I said before, its not fair to restrict your sisters laptop to slow 480p performance BUT (at least in my ASUS router) you can make a list of up to 5 devices that will be prioritized in the order of the list. Online gaming does not take much bandwidth, watch your task manager while gaming, most of the time you will be using less than 500 kb/s. If you put your device on the top of the list your packets will have priority, but your sister's laptop should still be able to stream without any difference to her quality. Some routers also have a "game prioritization" mode where they will prioritize known gaming traffic from any source.

Hope this helps, if you have any questions let me know.

Edit: I also would like to point out that I've tried gaming over a Powerline adapter as mentioned below. It was OK but there was still some lag and it seemed to max out at 100Mb/s download speed. I had better luck with a wireless AC pci-e card and an AC router.

u/6roybatty6 · 9 pointsr/eero

There's no such thing as an ethernet splitter, or at least not which does what you want it to do. There are, however, very small ethernet switches: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Ethernet-Splitter-Unmanaged-TL-SF1005D/dp/B000FNFSPY

I'd suggest that.

u/perennialExhaustion · 9 pointsr/SBU

The big metal thing up top is called Yagi antenna, which is basically just increases signal strength to nearby WiFi access points. Looks like this one

Connected to that is an external USB network adapter, looks like the awesome T-Link Archer or N150 connected to a USB extension.

​

So what OP is doing is extending range and connecting to a different nearby router, probably optimum wifi off campus or something.

​

EDIT: whoops, OP responded while i was typing. Didn't show up until now.

u/k3rnelpanic · 8 pointsr/saskatoon

Buy one of these https://www.amazon.ca/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-Access/dp/B015PRO512

Put it in a central location and any device that supports 802.11ac should be able to max out a 150mbps connection.

It only needs one network cable run to it (the power goes over the network cable too) so it's pretty easy to run. Maybe you can run the cable through a cold air return from your mech room.

It's enterprise hardware so it'll likely out perform any $500 consumer grade router out there. I run one of the lower models and it's the best upgrade I've ever made for my home wifi. No drops, rock solid, only had to reboot it once in three years.

u/EmilGH · 8 pointsr/lifx

Correct.

My connectivity issues all disappeared when I moved from a Netgear Night Hawk router with Shibby's Tomato Firmware to an Ubiquiti EdgeRouterX and UniFi AP AC Pro.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YFJT29C/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRO512/

Again, took a bit to get up and running but once I did -- I'll never go back to consumer networking gear. The LIFX bulb connections have been rock-solid ever since that move... In fact, 3 of the top 5 devices with the most "connectivity uptime" are LIFX bulbs. The other 2 being the Nest Protects. 😊

u/JudgeWhoAllowsStuff- · 8 pointsr/LifeProTips

somthing like this could help depending on your need. All the fun of having ethernet in the wall except for cutting of drywall.

u/evilarhan · 8 pointsr/PS4

Unlike the other PC gamers in this thread, I'd say that rig for a PS4 is a decent deal - if you do plan on replacing your PC with something a little more powerful, as you say in another thread.

Once you pick up the PS4, what you need first and foremost is a PS+ subscription, which I think is $50 a year. Multiplayer is more or less dependent upon it (except where noted, in certain games). With the service, you also get two free games every month. So far, they've all been smaller indie titles, though the PS3 is seeing some older AAA releases. You can still make a PSN id to buy games and suchlike off the PS store.

Next, you'd probably want a second controller, especially if you're into fighting games like Mortal Kombat or Injustice. Sportsfriends, one of the free PS+ games this month, is also local MP only, and I've really enjoyed it so far.

If your WiFi is not ideal, and you don't have a LAN connection direct to the PS4, you could look into one of these.

Finally, you could look into upgrading the hard drive. 500 GB doesn't last long, since the PS4 installs all games, even ones on discs, to the hard drive. With each title clocking in between 25 and 40 GB, not to mention the two free PS+ games every month, it's gonna run out fast.

Thankfully, it's really easy to replace, as detailed here. I've heard good things on /r/PS4 about a certain 2TB Samsung hard disk, but I cannot find it right now. Or you could go for an SSD, which is faster but more expensive.

That's about all I can think of at the moment. Now for the disclaimer:

If your primary motivation for the PS4 is Destiny, you might want to hold off. I'm enjoying the game, but I would not recommend it to anyone who hasn't already tried it and decided if it's the game for them. I played the open beta for between six and eight hours before deciding to buy it. If you can, play for at least an hour or two on a friend's system before taking the leap.

I know unsolicited advice is often unwelcome, so feel free to skip the following paragraph if you want to:

UNSOLICITED ADVICE FOLLOWS

You could upgrade your GPU and get a PS4 for cheaper than assembling a new rig from scratch. I'm pretty sure you could sell just the GPU for between eighty and a hundred bucks.

UNSOLICITED ADVICE ENDS

Cheers, and welcome to the PS family!

u/semose · 8 pointsr/sysadmin

Obligatory Ubiquiti EdgeRouterX routers cost $60 comment.

u/Steve2828 · 8 pointsr/googlehome

You want a bridge, not a repeater - a repeater wouldn't help. You need something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Travel-Extender-TL-WR802N/dp/B00TQEX8BO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1480305232&sr=8-4&keywords=wifi+bridge

You create a wifi network with this, and join your Google Home and phone to that. Then have he bridge join your dorm's wifi network. This creates a wifi network that only you and your Home see.

u/99levtt · 8 pointsr/chicago

Our installation fee was 59.95. I signed up for the 29.99 25mbs for 12 months promo. My first bill was right around $90 and the rest of my bills for the next 11 months should be at or around $34. The installation really was necessary though as there was no cable line running to our house from the main line.

I bought my own modem from Amazon, $68.99, and noted as such when I signed up for Comcast. It is a no-brainer to buy your own modem-- Comcast charges $6 or so a month for a rental so after the first year it's $72 down the drain versus a modem you can use forever.

As soon as the tech left, I plugged the modem into my WiFi router no problems (I might have cloned the MAC address of my laptop but I don't think I did-- I don't think they care about that anymore).

The service has been very consistent, fast, and reliable. No complaints.

Good luck.

u/agent-wonderbread · 8 pointsr/technology

I just ordered a Surfboard 6121 and its a really great modem. Pair it with an ASUS router like this and you have a wonderful combination. The range is extremely far, you can customize a lot of settings and you don't have to pay the monthly price. Comcast was charging me $8 a month for my modem, so after 6 months ill have paid for it already (picked mine up on sale).

u/funtervention · 8 pointsr/Seattle

You ran that test to comcast. That's not even across the internet. You have a serious problem that is not directly related to comcast sucking. Shitty speeds like that have Three sources: Bad wifi or ethernet connection to your PC, bad modem, bad wiring in your house (almost always splitters).

Assuming you have a laptop, and your cable isn't fished through the wall, but mostly runs along baseboards (as comcast does), you can take yourself, your laptop, and your modem trace the cable down to the first splitter that you have in the house after the cable comes inside, detach the cable from the input side of the splitter, attach the modem, plug your PC DIRECTLY into the modem via ethernet (be sure to turn off wifi) and run the test again.

(note: if you have one of those wifi modems shitbags that comcast rents, you shouldn't.)

If your speed improves dramatically and your ping times become reasonable, it is the wiring. Remove your splitters and either buy your own from amazon (make sure to match the specs. you want a splitter that can handle the frequencies the docsis 3 require), or take them down to the comcast store and ask for replacements (best if you not explain, they usually don't care and will throw them right at you no matter what). If after you apply those splitters back into the system, your speeds at your preferred modem location do not improve, repeat again at each splitter and replace the faulty length of coaxial cable.
Chance this will fix the problem: 80-90%

If your speeds do not improve, try a different ethernet cable. If that doesn't fix it, take your Modem (Assuming you lease) back to comcast (the store. do not bother calling support) and either ask for a replacement, or ask that they stop charging you a rental fee of $6 a month and go buy your own for the cost of 6-10 months of rental fees.
Chance that this or the previous steps will resolve your issue: 99.99%

Should your speeds be shit even after all of this, you need to call Comcast. At this point you are either in a really old apartment building with shit wiring throughout the building (Cocmast / your landlord's problem), there's something wrong in your neighborhood infrastructure (comcast's problem) or you live in a formerly segregated neighborhood that has irreparably bad infrastructure (society's problem)

u/Treasy · 8 pointsr/PS4

I'm using these.

The way they work is quite simple. Plug one into an outlet near your router and insert an ethernet cord into it. Plug the other into an outlet near your ps4 and connect an ethernet cord to it.

Now you have wired internet access. No other settings required.

u/ssps · 8 pointsr/synology

Any unmanaged switch from fairly well known brands will be fine. I recommend Netgear — the metal ones, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Protection-GS105NA/dp/B0000BVYT3/

I had issues with TPLink and DLink and older plastic Netgear ones (actively avoid those— they like to hang under certain conditions)— even though you might think that switch technology should have been polished by now.. turns out it isn’t.

u/fonoop · 8 pointsr/cordcutters

An ethernet switch will do what you need. It looks like a router but it's specifically for instances where you need to share a single ethernet cable from a router with two or more devices. They are pretty cheap. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FNFSPY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_-COywbDM7ESXM

Just plug all three cables in and the switch will take care of the rest.

u/amd_kenobi · 8 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Make an all purpose travelpi.
Get a PI3, load it up with raspbian or your preferred OS and throw it together with this Screen and case combo. Add some heatsinks to keep it cool, put emulation station on there for all the downtime gaming action you could ask for. Then have some fun playing with accessories. Here's a bluetooth vehicle diagnostics monitor you can use with pyOBD to monitor any 96 and up vehicle to check gas mileage and check error codes. Here's a GPS module for logging miles and checking locations and for the times you just absolutely must get wifi no matter what heres an adapter and antenna that will reach out and touch someone in the next country.

Edit: game pads

u/RadBadTad · 8 pointsr/techsupportgore
u/Toasty27 · 8 pointsr/gadgets

Netgear's firmware is garbage. The only manufacturer that I've been able to get consistent performance and reliability out of is Asus. I don't think it's a coincidence that their firmware is open source and based off of DD-WRT.

Although their models have gotten cheaper over the years. I bought my AC87 refurbished for $180 probably four years ago now, and it's still running great. The AC56 (I think that was $120 when I bought it?) that it replaced started giving me trouble after a year or so.

If I had to make a recommendation today, it would probably be the AC68 (currently $140 on Amazon), although if you were in a small apartment the AC66 ($65 on Amazon) would probably also do you well.

Asus provides regular updates to their routers, and there's good support for third party firmware.

u/Chrisagu28 · 8 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Picked up this 8 port unmanaged switch from TP-Link for 14.99 instead of the normal 39.99.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A121WN6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zImlDbAH101TG

u/caseigl · 8 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Just use a powerline ethernet adapter to move between those locations. You won't have full gigabit speed, but they have come a long long way.

This link is for the 500Mb speed, but the 200Mb (which is fine for most stuff) is only $20! http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA4010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00AWRUICG/

u/IVIajesty · 8 pointsr/PS4

I can't believe that after 173 comments, no one has the explanation as to why this is the case. I guess it's finally my time to shine. Simply put, the PS3 uses a wi-fi standard that's currently in most homes today. The PS4 uses a newer, faster standard. So why is it slower then? Because most people's routers aren't upgraded to this new standard yet. Sony made the PS4's wi-fi module more future-proof, but as of now it's definitely too future-proof. There are two work-arounds to this issue. You either A) buy a router that uses the new wi-fi standard or the better option IMO, B) buy one of these genius little network powerline adapters. Why do I think the powerline adapter is better? It's cheaper than most routers that use the new wi-fi standard and it's a wired connection. You ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS, want a wired connection with your gaming devices. Save the wi-fi for your phones and tablets. Wire connections are faster and more stable than wi-fi. The network powerline adapter allows you to have a wired connection even if you don't have the ethernet wire routed to the room with your PS4.



"But wait u/IVIajesty, how does this marvelous machine pull off such a magical feat???"



It's simple young padawon. You connect the first module into the outlet and into your router. It sends the ethernet connection throughout your homes circuiting. You connect the second module into the outlet by your PS4 and into your PS4 via ethernet cable, and alakazam! The internet signal is transferred over through the rooms. It's like having a wired connection, without having a wired connection! Woo!



Bonus LPT: If you have an electronics store like Best Buy or Fry's by you, you can buy the device from them and make sure it works. If it doesn't, they have 15 day return policies. This device works in pretty much 99% of home circuiting layouts. There are a few cases where the circuiting of the home isn't compatible with this device, but it's rare. If it doesn't work, you can always return it.



Bonus-Bonus LPT: Best Buy and Fry's both price check, so if it's cheaper on Amazon or any other reputable online vender, make sure you take advantage of that to save a couple extra bucks.



Edit: Used some bolding and italics to make my comment sexier.
Edit 2: It seems as though I might've have confused standard with a different word or I might've gotten my info from an unreliable source. Crossed out the wrong info. Guess I'm not a savior after all :'(

u/getbodied99 · 8 pointsr/Games

Here are some things you can try if you haven't already:

  1. Use ethernet the whole way. If you do this, there will be almost no latency or noticable compression. This may not be feasible for the steam link itself, but you can likely pull it off for the PC connection. The less Wifi you use, the better the picture quality is.
  2. If you can't use ethernet, try using a Powerline adapter. Essentially these things send super small electrical signals through your house's circuit (unnoticable to any of your appliances) to replace ethernet. It's not quite as fast as ethernet, but It's a hell of a lot faster than wifi and should be fine for the Link. You can only use this if your PC and Steam link are on the same circuit.
  3. If you can't use powerline either, use a 5GHz Wifi connection if you can. It has smaller range but much higher bandwidth so you won't have as much latency / compression
  4. If you're using Wifi move your modem, PC, and steam link away from large metal objects (think about what's behind your walls!). Note that the material is important here - wifi signals can travel through wood and drywall pretty easily but not aluminum.
u/winter_whiskey · 8 pointsr/toledo

The wireless router supplied by Buckeye is junk. What I did was get the modem without wireless and bought the modem below.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006QB1RPY/ref=dp_cerb_1

u/Return_The_Yeti · 7 pointsr/sanfrancisco

I just bought this from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004XC6GJ0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My speed went from 50mbs to 120mbps. Thats worth $80. Also, for that much speed, make sure your firewall has a gig interface on it.

u/sickbeard2 · 7 pointsr/cordcutters

For comparison:

7 x 12 = $84

Motorola DOCSIS 3.0 Modem = $86

u/wilsonics · 7 pointsr/ipv6

You may want to contact them and have them check the signal levels at your modem; you'll have to have a cable guy come out usually for no charge. I used to work for TWC/RoadRunner, this was a common problem. Also, make sure your modem is not attached to multiple (usually the tech will give you a special one that will only degrade the signal by -1.5db) splitters so it gets the best signal possible. You basically want it to be the first device connected directly to the cable trunk outside. This is very important. Cable modems are very picky. If Charter supports it, and you can afford it, pick up this cable modem (just call them and ask.) It improved my speeds on Comcast. As and added bonus, you won't be renting a modem from them for ~$10/mo so it will pay for itself pretty soon.

u/therealrico · 7 pointsr/burlington

I do, it’s cheaper in the long run. Bought mine in 2014, still works great paid between 100-150 but can’t remember.

This is the model I bought in 2014.

u/tthatfreak · 7 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I've got one and it was recognized immediately with no issues.

http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-Wireless-Adapter-Wizard/dp/B003MTTJOY

u/mutatedferret · 7 pointsr/beermoney

no he doesnt. its all about how you set up your network. i have a linksys EA3500 handling 10 devices. i have a crap router behind it handling my checkpoints farm for that IP(10 devices). i have a netgear something handling 15 devices on a different IP. the key is to separate the channels. i run mine on 1, 6 and 11. no overlap for the 3 programs i run (sb, perk and checkpoints).

however, if you are going to upgrade, may as well as upgrade to something commercial that will handle the traffic you're throwing at it:

use this as your router (this is what im about to upgrade too)

use this as your access point for your wifi devices. add more as needed

$300 routers are trash compared to something under 150 thats commercial-grade.

u/Pokes_Softly · 7 pointsr/buildapcsales

I was looking for routers. Here's a few I was watching. Went with just the router don't need a modem.

2 in 1. Modem/router combo.
$140 ARRIS SURFboard SBG7580AC Docsis 3.0 Cable Modem/ Wi-Fi AC1750 Router

Just the router. $75 NETGEAR Nighthawk AC1750 Smart Dual Band WiFi Router (R6700)

u/knot13 · 7 pointsr/gadgets

There are plenty of good routers that are under $120. Heck, the Nighthawk is on Amazon for $99.99 and is a solid choice, and there are other options for cheaper that would still be considered a quality WiFi router.

u/spectre234 · 7 pointsr/solar

Get this:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00A121WN6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

or the cheaper 5 port option if money is an issue. You do not want a hub, you want an unmanaged gigabit switch. Run a cable from your router to the switch and then you can run multiple LAN connections off this switch and your router will give out IP's just like it being plugged into the router.

u/Reptylus · 7 pointsr/PS4
u/eziam · 7 pointsr/xbox360

Get a powerline. It uses the outlets and runs the signal across the electrical wires. My xbox gets about 5mbs down wifi but about 75 mbs Wired.

TP-LINK TL-PA4010KIT AV500 Nano Powerline Adapter Starter Kit, up to 500Mbps by TP-LINK http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_pJTWtb1PBK8A4

u/perko12 · 7 pointsr/perktv

So, if your connection is slowing on desktop while hardwired I'd forgo the access point for now and get a dedicated router, an Edge Router X, instead. I'd then set your current device into access point mode and see how it goes.


Having said that, are you sure it's your router/ap and not your ISP speed?

u/cyllibi · 7 pointsr/GameDeals

My wireless connection was too poor for the Steam link, and I rent a room so I couldn't run ethernet through the walls. Instead, I found a good solution in using this powerline ethernet adapter.

u/MrMentat · 7 pointsr/GameDeals

I would say it is sligthly better than a chromecast. Rather than only being able use a couple streaming services from an appstore. With the steamlink, you can basically stream whatever is on your desktop.

A ethernet connection is highly recommended though. I've use these with some success.

u/Kaemonn · 7 pointsr/Rainbow6

Buy a Tp-Link I bought one a while ago and it fixed all my problems I was having.

u/xi_mezmerize_ix · 7 pointsr/GameDeals

TP-LINK TL-PA4010KIT AV500 Nano Powerline Adapter Starter Kit, up to 500Mbps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_zQYFwbA7ZNW41

u/Lagotta · 7 pointsr/HomeNetworking

How many more ports do you need? (Now, and say for the next year or two, looking ahead?)

Five ports: (leaves your four ports to work with, since one port is used to connect to your router)

​

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Ethernet-Optimization-Unmanaged-TL-SG105/dp/B00A128S24/ref=zg_bs_281414_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XF6W03YMBKHZVSTYKM35

​

8 ports (leaves you seven to use for your devices)

​

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Internet-Splitter/dp/B00KFD0SEA/ref=zg_bs_281414_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XF6W03YMBKHZVSTYKM35

​

Another five port, all metal case, lifetime warranty (not a big deal)

​

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Protection-GS105NA/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=zg_bs_281414_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XF6W03YMBKHZVSTYKM35

​

​

u/Finnocci · 7 pointsr/HowToHack

study for CompTIA A+.

They teach you stuff that a normal every-day user wouldn't need to concern themselves with, like OSI layers, types or protocols and standards for data transition. I think it also covers some aspects of security like what hashing is, types of encryption, and gets you used to some tech lingo that an average user may not understand.

After that, go for Network+, it dives deeper into...well, computer networks.

Plenty of free resources for both certifications online. And if you do decide to test for the certifications, they look real gucci on your resume if you have no prior IT experience.

After that, if you have some spare dough, pick up a cheap used laptop for probably $150 or so, and probably pick up one of these guys as well. You don't need any fancy specs. Just enough for you to download Ubuntu and learn linux, setup a challenge for yourself to navigate the operating system using the terminal and the terminal only. That includes installing new programs, opening up files, executing scripts, everything. No double clicking allowed, limit yourself from using the GUI of the OS as much as possible. If you want something done, learn to use the terminal to do it first.

And imo it's really important to do it in that order. Don't be like a lot of people, who thinks buying a laptop and a airmon-ng compatible wifi adapter will make them all set to start becoming a 1337 hacker, and lost interest in a month or two and have basically just wasted their money. Hacking really doesn't have a set course, but if you find yourself with enough interest and discipline to grind through two boring (but very informative) certifications, I believe that then you know you are in the right field. Mostly, you pick up pieces of knowledge here and there, no book is gonna be a fit-all solution towards becoming a hacker. It is the sum of those pieces of knowledge, that makes a hacker a hacker.

u/Xakuta · 7 pointsr/PS4

If you can't get the wifi going, powerline adapters may be a great alternative for you to provide a consistent and reliable network connection to your PS4 as long as you have outlets available near both the router and PS4.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA2010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00AWRUIY4/ref=pd_tcs_subst_e_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=021B2W1R5TGXTHZNPQVR

u/carlyman · 7 pointsr/buildapc

https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200K02/dp/B013J7O3X0 -- I've found better prices tho. Just plug into coax and then treat it like an ethernet port; you can have multiple adapters on the coax "network."

u/Nerdnub · 7 pointsr/homelab

Yes, you can. You'd use a couple MoCA (Multimedia over Coax Alliance) adapters, with one on each end. This should allow you to push ethernet over your Coax. Having never done this myself, it should work fine in theory, but other factors like cable quality and length will probably come into play.

Here's a link to a pair you can purchase on Amazon: Link

u/determined_warrior · 7 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I have MoCA adapters working with Verizon FioS. Its awesome. MoCA 1.1 gives 175 Mbps shared.

I have them next to each TV (3 total). Much better than Wifi. I do not see ocassional drops I used to see with wifi earlier.

I have had ocassional (may be 4 times in 8 years) when I have to reboot the moca adapter as it got out of sync but very rock solid otherwise.

I use Actiontec MoCA 2.0 adapters - no-referral Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013J7O3X0/

u/Robots_Never_Die · 7 pointsr/HomeNetworking

If you want a affordable gigabit setup with Ubiquiti just run this setup.

  • USG $110
  • Unifi AP AC Lite $80
  • TP-Link 8 Port Unmanaged Switch $25
  • 1000' cat 5e $85
  • 24 port patch panel $19

    If you don't have a gigabit connection you can swap out the USG for an ER-X which will knock off $50 but if you have the $50 to spend I would suggest staying with the USG so all your managed products are on the Unifi admin interface. You can also save some money by going with 500' of cat 5e if you don't need the full 1k foot spool.
u/_neutrino_ · 7 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I'd go with Ubiquiti products. Something like a Edgeroute X SFP and a Unifi AC lite.

I've got the slightly older Unifi AP and it's bulletproof. And with the X SFP you won't need the power injector for the AC lite. I setup the AC lite for a friend and it's also very solid, easy to use product.

Check out /r/Ubiquiti

u/tvoretz · 7 pointsr/3DS

No, you need Wi-Fi of some sort. If you can't add a Wi-Fi router, you might be able to purchase an inexpensive dongle (like this one) and run a Wi-Fi network from your computer. Otherwise, you'll have to rely on public Wi-Fi networks like at a library or restaurant.

u/LordZelgadis · 7 pointsr/homelab

You don't have to do top tier everything for a homelab.

Most people will never need managed switches, much less Cisco branded stuff. TP-Link makes competent and reasonably priced dumb switches.

For the router, I used to run pfSense on a custom PC build (~$300 about 6 years ago) but I'm already familiar with enterprise router settings and found all the features I could want in a consumer grade Asus router. At the end of the day, port forwarding, WiFi and OpenVPN are everything I'd ever want it to do. I can offload any heavy lifting or advanced features to my server.

If you're not looking to be super fancy, here's a simple homelab setup:

  • Asus AC86U Router: $170.14
  • 24 port TP-Link Switch: $89.99
  • 8 port TP-Link Switch: $19.99
  • 2 Bay Synology Diskstation: $166.87
  • Dell PowerEdge R710 Server: $209.95

    You can swap up or down based on needs but the router does all the basic stuff most people will need it to do. The 24 port switch should be more than enough as the primary switch for most people. The 8 port switch is great for secondary locations. The diskstation can handle your backups and cloud storage and is a nice balance of convenience and price. The R710 server can handle Plex, NAS duties and probably some light duty VMs.

    The big add-on expense will be the hard drives, of course. You could probably get by shucking the 10TB easystore drives to save a bit.

    I use a custom built server (Xeon E3-1231 v3 @ 3.4GHz, 16 GB RAM, built around 2012 and upgraded the CPU a few years ago) and have never owned a R710 myself, so I can't say much on the actual limits of what you can do with it. That said, I'm suddenly really tempted to grab a R710 to use as network storage because I've reached the limit of my current server. The biggest weakness I see in the R710 is the CPU isn't too beefy but its still decent given the sheer number of (8)cores/(16)threads. Plex and less demanding game servers are probably the limit of what it can handle but it should easily handle a number of less demanding VMs.

    Anyways, as a starter setup, this should more than satisfy most people.
u/ldjarmin · 7 pointsr/HomeNetworking

If you really want to have a high quality, robust solution then ditch the consumer grade stuff entirely. What I (and many others) would suggest is something like using the Ubiquiti Edgerouter Lite as your router. Then you run Ethernet to one (or more, if your house is big enough) Ubiquiti Unifi Access Point to provide wifi. These are rock solid, business class products for a great price. And the best part is if you need more coverage, you just plug in another Unifi access point and put it where you want.

As for a modem, most people on here would recommend the Motorola line, like the SB6141 or the SB6183, but those are dependent on being on your ISP's approved modem list (though most major American ISPs approve of these particular modems).

u/LearnsSomethingNew · 7 pointsr/Android

So.... if I understand this correctly, T-Mobile is offering this $200 router on Amazon for a refundable $25, if you say you need it for Wifi calling, regardless of whether or not you use wifi calling?

You're telling me I can have a $200 router for $25? No strings attached?

EDIT: More info after some research: http://slickdeals.net/f/7193262-t-mobile-personal-cellspot-ac-router-by-asus-free-for-postpaid-25-deposit

TL;DR - Yes, postpaid customers get a $200 router for $25 to use Wifi-calling on T-Mo branded smartphones (not Nexus 4 and Nexus 5 bought from Google). Prepaid customers get charged $99. These charges are technically refundable deposits. This router is probably better than your home router you currently have, and is very lightly modified, so it's an overall upgrade to your home network.

u/zRobber · 6 pointsr/Chattanooga

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Gigabit-Support/dp/B00F0DD0I6

Impossible to go wrong with an R7000. Powerful enough for a small business (<75 people), and the WiFi coverage is amazing.

u/Phaedrus0230 · 6 pointsr/NintendoSwitch
u/pogidaga · 6 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I can't tell for sure from the photos, but that cable is probably at least CAT5e or better, which is just fine for 1GB ethernet in the house.

You need to cut off the phone jacks and install CAT5e or better RJ-45 jacks with a punch down tool. Do this conversion at every place where you want network. Then in the basement you need to punch down the other end of each cable separately to a CAT5e or better patch panel. Then you need to run short CAT5e or better patch cords from the patch panel to an Ethernet switch. Finally you need to connect your router to the switch, either directly, or through one of the network jacks you installed in the house.

u/onenerdyguy · 6 pointsr/homelab

Eh, without knowing the router, I can't tell you that. The quickest and easiest, plus best performance, would be to just slap in a Gig switch, plug that into the actiontec, and plug your clients into the switch. Then the wired clients get Gig lan amongst themselves, and only drop to 10/100 when going wired-to-wireless or wired-to-internet.

Something like this would be fine for you http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A121WN6/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687722&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00006RVPW&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0Z8KMTZGGRKVQ055QS7G

u/ReallyObvious · 6 pointsr/techsupport

Dude. Go for the ethernet through power lines adapter first(btw this is more commonly called a powerline adapter).

This one has 500 mbps, which is considerably higher bandwidth than wifi. It will also give you lower latency, and a generally more stable connection. Take it from me, I have had some TERRIBLE experiences with wifi repeaters. Powerline ftw.

Or you could go all out and get the best of both worlds. Buy one of these, another router, and a powerline adapter. Then what you do is you set it up downstairs (where you normally have your router), and have it go, modem -> ethernet switch -> old router. Then plug one end of the powerline adapter into the switch.

Then plug in the powerline adapter into the wall upstairs where you want wifi. Plug in your new router to it. Set the SSID (the wifi name of your router), as the same name as the router you have downstairs. BAM. You now have STRONG wifi anywhere in the house. Devices will automatically connect to the router with the stronger signal. It will only appear as one wifi network on phones, tablets, etc.

u/tokemon8668 · 6 pointsr/Amd

Had this same issue - still can't stand Wifi due to dropouts and latency, so bought an Ethernet over Power adapter instead. Uses your AC line to provide a solid connection to your router anywhere in the house.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AV600-Powerline-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ethernet+over+power&qid=1569066338&s=gateway&sr=8-3

u/rayzincrisp · 6 pointsr/xbmc

I bought THIS. I use it exclusively with openELEC and when I hooked it up my router was about 40 FT from my box.

THIS is running on my Raspberry pi openElec box that is right now about 15 feet from the router (on a different floor)

I haven't tested the range on either, but both work great.

u/Slinkwyde · 6 pointsr/techsupport

I suggest doing a virus scan that's completely outside of Windows. That way any malware that might be there will have less chance to execute and interfere with the scan. It's also useful just as a second opinion.

  1. Download Xubuntu or Lubuntu and follow their instructions ( Windows USB | Windows DVD | Mac USB | Mac DVD) to put it on a flash drive or DVD. Or you could use your preferred Linux distro, if you have one. Lubuntu is more lightweight, while Xubuntu has a nicer interface. The reason you may want to burn a DVD is that some computers are unable to boot from USB.
  2. With her computer off, plug the drive in (so that Windows has no chance to modify the drive), and boot her computer from it. Choose the "Try without installing" option.
  3. If you're not using Ethernet, connect to WiFi (probably the default password on the side or bottom of the router). If her WiFi card doesn't work out the box, use Ethernet (perhaps via Powerline Ethernet adapters) or a well-supported USB WiFi adapter.
  4. Look in the app menu (similar to Windows start menu) for the package manager / software center / app store / whatever they call it.
  5. Once there, search for ClamTk. ClamTk is a GUI for an antivirus program called ClamAV. If you prefer, you can use ClamAV from the Terminal, but you'd need to look up the commands yourself.
  6. Open ClamTk, make sure it downloads the latest virus definitions, and then tell it to do a recursive scan of a directory: the top level of her hard drive.
  7. Let it run. It may take a while to go through all the files.
  8. If it finds anything, look through the list to check for false positives.

    When finished, click on the app menu (same one as step 3) and tell it to restart. When prompted, remove the flash drive / DVD and then press enter.

    These are NOT complete, step-by-step instructions. They're only enough to sort of convey the general idea, so some of these may require a little trial & error or Googling. If this is new to you, try it on your own machine first before doing it on hers. VirtualBox is a free program for using virtual machines, and you could use that for practice.

    Keep in mind that no work or settings will be saved while booted from the flash drive. Everything is kept in RAM unless you save to a disk. Linux doesn't get installed to her machine unless you deliberately run the installer program.
u/Darkofday · 6 pointsr/UCDavis

It's also wise to buy a cable modem yourself since you won't get charged to rent theirs.

If you buy your own it will pay itself off in about a year (7$/mo) and anything after that is pure savings.

u/blueboybob · 6 pointsr/Roku
u/maccabeus · 6 pointsr/boston

Buy this modem and the router/wireless access point of your choice. I like this one but you can go cheaper or more fancy if you like. Connect the modem to the cable line and the router to the modem. Write down the MAC address and serial number for each thing.

Next, take a shot, and call comcast. Tell them you want their $35/month internet-only plan and you have your own modem. Connect the modem to the cable line before calling to make things easier. They will try to sell you some stuff and get some info, but just be patient and stay on target.

This is where it gets fun. If you've been graced by heaven, you'll be done in 5 minutes but I've never seen this happen. Most likely you will be transferred around to several people, having to repeat the same info while they struggle to activate your modem. They will claim there's no signal, they'll say "maybe it's not supported," and they'll very likely drop the call at least once. Keep calling and eventually, probably within 45 minutes to an hour, they will miraculously succeed.

It will end up costing $40/month, because there's some retarded $5 fee on top of the subscription. If they try to charge you for a modem rental or installation, challenge it immediately.

Yes, this is the easiest and cheapest way to get internet in this city. Fortunately, setting up gas/electric is about a 5 minute phone call with the lovely folks at national grid.

u/dd4tasty · 6 pointsr/AskTechnology

This is going to get downvoted because of the A word, but, the Apple Airport Extreme is an extremely capable and stable wireless router.

http://www.amazon.com/AirPort-Extreme-802-11n-5th-Generation/dp/B0057AVXJA

The 5th generation version is still fine. Go up to $200 and you can get the current version, which is AC capable, etc.

If you have game consoles, which like uPnP, be advised the Apple does not offer uPnP.

If you have game consoles:

http://www.amazon.com/RT-AC66U-Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1750-Gigabit-Router/dp/B008ABOJKS/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1376407132&sr=1-1&keywords=asus+ac66u

or

http://www.amazon.com/RT-N66U-Dual-Band-Wireless-N900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B006QB1RPY/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1376407149&sr=1-2&keywords=asus+ac66u

This:

http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-popular

u/Santoxjon · 6 pointsr/hackintosh

I have a T440p (High Sierra and Linux Mint dual boot) also and Wi-Fi isn't working, Lenovo has a whitelist for Hardware, so changing the Wi-Fi card is not that easy. I just use a Wi-Fi dongle -> https://www.amazon.es/TP-LINK-TL-WN823N-adaptador-inalámbrico-10-7-10-11/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=sr_1_3?__mk_es_ES=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&keywords=usb%2Bwifi&qid=1564018664&s=computers&sr=1-3&th=1

​

VGA port is also useless.

u/TopFlightSecurity_ · 6 pointsr/PlaystationClassic

Thank you! I've just tested a TP-Link TL-WN725N that I use on my SNES Classic, and I was able to go online in RetroArch on the PS Classic!

Here's an Amazon link to the TL-WN725N.

I've also tested a TP-Link Archer T9UH just for the hell of it, which did not work, as I expected.

EDIT: Also for the hell of it, I have just tested a Cable Matters USB 2.0 to Ethernet adapter, that I use on my Raspberry Pi Zero W, and it works on the PS Classic too!

Here's an Amazon link to the USB 2.0 to Ethernet adapter.

u/skytzx · 6 pointsr/justfriendshome

For Wifi, Unifi Access Points are often recommended by /r/HomeNetworking. Having a few AP-AC-PRO's is probably what I'd go for. (Enterprise-grade hardware on the cheap, and not much more difficult to setup than consumer AP's either)

Also a mesh system trades speed for coverage. It's usually only recommended when it's difficult to route multiple ethernet lines to separate access points. I know Unifi systems support seamless handoff between AP's, acting just like a mesh system.

Check out /r/HomeNetworking for more insight. They can give some good advice, especially since a streaming house isn't exactly a typical scenario.

u/ssl-3 · 6 pointsr/raspberry_pi

One network jack is totally appropriate for a little general-purpose hobbyist SBC.

If you want a little, inexpensive computer with lots of Ethernet jacks, just buy one. If you want an Odroid N2 with an extra network jack, add one.

u/CpE_Wahoo · 6 pointsr/smashbros

USB! Check out Amazon for inexpensive adapters that will improve your online gaming on the Switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M77HMU0

u/mshik3 · 6 pointsr/SiliconValleyHBO

It's a nighthawk router. I currently use it and it's phenomenal, looks badass, and can handle gigabit speeds quite easily.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1750-Smart-Router/dp/B00R2AZLD2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495048991&sr=8-1&keywords=nighthawk+netgear

u/Bobby_Marks2 · 6 pointsr/VintageApple

I have an 867MHz G4 TiBook, running OS 9. I do most of my writing on it.

It isn't that heavy, although I guess that depends on what people mean by mobile. I'm not hiking somewhere to setup and work on it, so I don't have an issue. I wouldn't think twice about a bus/train commute with it. It's just a laptop. Doesn't hurt at all to use on your lap, if that's what you mean.

Battery life is poor, but it depends on what you do and how you want to use it. At full brightness and running the CPU for performance, even without crunching I can burn through the battery in an hour or so. But turn the brightness down, minimize everything else that eats power - I can get 4+ hours out of it. If you're serious, you either buy a new battery, or take the time to rebuild your own.

You say you don't need WiFi, but if you do: AirPort cards don't play nice with OS9, and they don't support WPA2 so they don't really connect anywhere even on OS X. What I do is use a USB-powered travel router that basically turns wifi networks into an ethernet connection. Aside from a couple of cables and a tiny box connected when online, it's a really simple way to connect to any/every modern wireless network - I recommend it even if just to surf and download classic software directly to the system. Speaking of surfing: Classilla. You can do quite a few useful tweaks to it, block out ad servers, and ultimately you are able to surf most reasonable websites (Reddit, Google, Mac Garden, anything text-driven or served by the great wiby.me search engine for ancient-friendly websites).

That said, the TiBook makes for a great writing machine with OS9, specifically because it takes that effort to get online and be distracted. Even if you can't get all-day battery out of it, it puts you in your creative space and leaves you alone. Even if it needs cables, or a power outlet. When it comes to writing, the most important aspect of a laptop to me is how much my fingers and wrists like the keyboard, and the keyboard is great.

If you are so inclined, I also recommend a good solid clamshell iBook. They are bulkier and heavier, and smaller screens really bother some people, but the keyboard is without a doubt the greatest laptop keyboard I've ever used (and it's a common sentiment around the web).

u/meeekus · 6 pointsr/PleX

I bring my roku and use a travel network router. If there is any authentication, any device connected to the router can act as the authenticator. I usually use my phone to enter the room number and last name. Then the session is tied to the router.

u/mcribgaming · 6 pointsr/HomeNetworking

>Plus it all seems inefficient since I already have the LAN throughout the house.

If you already have Ethernet pulled to places all over the house, then wired Access Points is the obvious and correct answer.

Ubiquiti is the king of reliable Access Points. But switching to Ubiquiti requires a bit more knowledge than your typical wireless router / repeater system, so if you choose this, you'll have to do a bit of learning too.

For 900 sqft on two floors, you can likely get away with just one Access Point mounted on the First Floor in the Center. That would easily cover the floor, plus very likely cover the floors above and below it too. A Ubiquiti nanoHD is my go-to recommendation lately, but if you are trying to save some money, an AC-LITE is fine.

nanoHD:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Internal-1733Mbit-Ethernet/dp/B07FFNTLJD/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=nanohd&qid=1574904222&s=electronics&sr=1-4

AC-PRO:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=nanohd&qid=1574903775&s=electronics&sr=1-5

AC Lite:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sxin_2_ac_d_rm?ac_md=0-0-YWMgbGl0ZQ%3D%3D-ac_d_rm&keywords=ac+lite&pd_rd_i=B015PR20GY&pd_rd_r=382f4fce-b8fd-41f5-9d83-2ce30c7d4867&pd_rd_w=2JjVi&pd_rd_wg=IV1TH&pf_rd_p=e2f20af2-9651-42af-9a45-89425d5bae34&pf_rd_r=BRFTH2F9ZHRVN6T7YH6B&psc=1&qid=1574903705

Since you already have Ethernet presumably at ground level, you can also consider the Ubiquiti In-Wall units as well. These units provide you Wireless Access Points PLUS they give you two Ethernet ports at ground level. If you can get your gamer and game machines plugged into Ethernet instead of wireless, you'll have the ideal setup (streaming and other things are fine on wireless).

So maybe 1 ceiling mounted AP in the middle of the first floor, one in wall where the gamer is (for Ethernet ports as well as supplemental WiFi on the second floor), and maybe one In-Wall in the basement if needed (good chance it won't be).

AC-In-Wall:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-UAP-AC-Iw-Wireless-Access/dp/B06XZLP8Q6/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1YA0NR13TWSGZ&keywords=ubiquiti+in+wall&qid=1574903832&s=electronics&sprefix=ubiquiti+in+w%2Celectronics%2C199&sr=1-2

If you do get 2-3 Ubiquiti APs, you'll probably want a PoE switch to power them all. This is another expense, unfortunately, but makes installation much cleaner.

>Based on what I've read (and experienced before) one kungfu wireless router isn't likely to provide adequate coverage throughout the house.

If you didn't want to go the Ubiquiti route, your house is actually a pretty good candidate for an Asus or Netgear, since it's 900sf stacked on top of each other. These consumer routers are pretty good these days. Unless your house is all brick and metal, I don't see why it wouldn't cover it.

u/CrazyManInCincy · 6 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Ubiquiti Networks Unifi 802.11ac Dual-Radio PRO Access Point (UAP-AC-PRO-US) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRO512/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1uY.ybZ0ZY0V0

You must have gotten a dud because mine has work flawlessly for over a year.

u/docbaily · 6 pointsr/PFSENSE

That makes more sense. That would totally work. Pretty much any router put into access point mode would work. I was using an old Asus router as an access point for a while but it overheated and eventually died. I can highly recommend a Ubiquiti access point. Its what I eventually switched to and I'm extremely happy with it overall.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512/

u/limited-papertrail · 6 pointsr/privacy

Do you have an Android smart phone or tablet?
If so, DL the Wiggle wifi app.

With it running, you can walk around the property and better triangulate various signals.

If you have a macbook, you can do the same thing pretty much with Kismac. I use WiFiFoFum to do it with an iPhone, but it requires jailbreaking.

Subnet Insight is an absolutely amazing app for iPhone for taking keeping track of your local network and keeping it safe. It's $5, and the only non-free software I'm linking.

If you have an external wireless adapter, or are willing to spend $15-$30 on a specialized one, I can walk you through putting it in monitor mode and really getting the the bottom of the issue.

Here's a simple tp-link USB wifi adapter you can use to monitor all transmissions over B/G/N wifi, [for only $11 amazon prime.] (http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG). Here's a very high quality (and foolproof) directional antenna you can use to make it much more effective for less than $30.


^Also ^a ^lot ^of ^the ^advice ^you've ^gotten ^so ^far ^is ^pretty ^badummmmm, ^or ^too ^complicated ^w/out ^better ^context.
But don't be discouraged. Network internals & also wifi/radio signals are complex topics, but the basics are accessible enough to pick up quickly in your situation.

u/calladus · 6 pointsr/raisedbynarcissists

Your father is VERY good with computers? You are basically screwed unless you can dramatically up your game.

Basically, a knowledgeable person can upgrade a router with open source firmware, and give himself god-like powers over the network. Your every move could be tracked.

Your father, if sufficiently skilled, could give you access to Internet that is upside down, or only directed to Kittens, or he could make every single image blurry or missing. More subtlety, he could just log every single thing you do on the 'net.

And it isn't even that hard, it just takes knowledge of what is possible, and the use of Google to figure out how to do it.

There are things you can do. Get a cheap USB WIFI adapter first. So you won't show up on your father's router with your current WIFI adapter. Then, tether to your Android phone, or piggyback off of a neighbor's WIFI.

Last, keyloggers are a possibility - they could be hardware or software related. It is possible to install a hardware keylogger inside the case of your laptop if the installer is sufficiently technically talented. A keylogger, or other software or firmware would completely compromise your computer and prevent you from hiding almost anything that you do.

u/SaladWithHotDogsInIt · 6 pointsr/linux

These are $10 and the work right out of the box.

u/NorthAntrim · 6 pointsr/techsupport

The best solution for using WiFi on your desktop would probably be to get a PCI wireless card, like this one.

If you aren't comfortable adding a PCI card, or don't have any space for one, you can get a USB wireless adapter, such as this one.

Finally, if you want a better solution that's not running a long cable, buy power line adapters. You plug one into a socket near the router and connect it via Ethernet to the router, then you plug another one in beside your PC and run Ethernet from it to your PC. It uses the wiring in the house to carry data, and is often better than WiFi.

Personally, I would go with the power line adapters then the PCI wireless card.

u/backwoodsgeek · 6 pointsr/openbsd

I don’t think OpenBSD supports Broadcom WiFi at all. Your best bet is probably to get a supported USB adapter. I have a couple of these that live in my OpenBSD laptops that have junky onboard WiFi. Mostly old Macs with Broadcom WiFi.

u/nikto11 · 6 pointsr/buildapc

I have this usb adapter that I use from time to time, and this which I use pretty much all the time and have had for about 2 years. I like being able to move the antenna to get a better signal, right now it's velcro'd to the wall behind my bed.

If you go the usb route I'd probably buy a larger one that I have that has external antennas, like http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1421374210&sr=8-8&keywords=usb+wifi. But I'd still go PCI if you use it a lot, probably last longer and have a better quality connection.

u/TenGigabit · 6 pointsr/HomeNetworking

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ap-ac-lite&qid=1569085300&s=electronics&sr=1-3

This is what 98% of us here would recommend. As noted below, you don't need the Pro version if you're just installing this in a moderately sized home with 10-15-20 devices connecting to it. The Unifi software is powerful, yet intuitive, and gives you plenty of control and features - And it will scale well if you decided to either add more Unifi AP's or a Unifi switch or firewall down the road. The great thing about these types of AP's is that they are PoE, meaning you can deploy them anywhere with just a single Ethernet cable providing both data and power.

u/PoorlyShavedApe · 6 pointsr/NewOrleans

>I've considered trying to run an Ethernet cable to their side and then adding a repeater (is that the right name?)

Repeaters are trash. Don't bother.

>Also, was thinking it might work to put the router in the center of the attic?

Location of the router doesn't matter, just the access point.

How to get decent wireless coverage on both sides of a double? Stop using consumer grade all=in-one garbage. Get a dedicated access point (AP) that you can mount on a wall or ceiling and your coverage will be much, much better. Personally I use the UniFi line of access points from Uniquiti. UniFi AC Pro for $150, UniFi AC Lite for $78. technically you need to install the controller software someplace to do initial configuration, but that software doesn't have to run 24x7 (unless you're a dick and want to do a captive portal to make your neighbors log in). The UniFi line is Power over Ethernet (PoE) as well (with an injector) so you only have to run one cable to the device. Additionally if you need you can add an additional access point and have handoff between the devices.

The AP doesn't have to be from UniFi. I just suggest them becasue the configuration is easy. The iPhone app makes pairing the AP to a controller stupid simple as well. I used an entry-level Cisco Meraki AP for three years before replacing it. You could get one for free by watching a webinar and got a three year license. UniFi doesn't have licensing.

You can use any COX approved cable modem and router with an external access point. If your router has an AP built in just turn that off.

Since you are looking to share with your neighbors you may want to look at the "unlimited" data package. that is an extra $50 USD month. If you have multiple TVs all streaming content it adds up fast. Between the neighbors and myself we average 3 TB a month. I can always tell when the COX CSR looks at data usage.

u/xplusyequalsz · 6 pointsr/HomeNetworking

These are great access points for the money.

u/dakoellis · 6 pointsr/HomeNetworking

So instead of using a mesh system, you will get much better performance using WAPs instead. The most popular one here is the UAP-AC-lite. You will still need a router, so you could buy a new one, like the Edgerouter X, or if you're happy with the netgear (except for the wireless performance of course) You can keep that and just run the WAPs off of that.

u/t3dward · 6 pointsr/LifeProTips

This thing is pretty good, and if you already have a router it's not a very expensive addon. The caveat, it needs a cat5 connection from your router handing out DHCP addresses to work, it won't do routing on its own.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY

u/source4man · 6 pointsr/lightingdesign

What console are you using? Generally in a situation like this you want a small unmanaged network switch so that your router isn’t a single point of failure for show data. Netgear 5 port gigabit switches are like $30-40 and worth it.

So your map would be a wheel with three spokes: console, router, and node, all directly connected to your network switch.

And though it isn’t a big deal with a small network like this, it’s good to limit the number of choke points in your system. If you’re running everything directly through your router, you have to count on it to successfully and quickly relay all of that show data, and it might not be very good at that, many routers only have 100/mb/s network ports. Also if someone unplugs the router, your show will go down.

NETGEAR 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch (GS105NA) - Desktop, and ProSAFE Lifetime Protection https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yjV0CbKGVJ63Q

u/MiracleWhippit · 6 pointsr/techsupport

You've got two real options:

First is a switch like this for like ten bucks

This technically puts you on whatever network the campus' router is putting you on. They could keep everything isolated on a per port basis... or they could have you networked to internal resources... or even to the entire dorm. You could probably tell by opening up network places and seeing if anything pops up.

Second is a router. I'd say get a wireless one and then you'd be able to share your own wireless SSID to your phones/tablets/laptops or whatever. For 30$ you can get this Asus one. I like Asus because it's pretty easy to configure their stuff and you're able to use it as an AP, Repeater, Router or a plain old switch if you want to.

I'd suggest a router so you'll have your own firewall and you'll be able to setup your own wireless network in your dorm.

u/acles003 · 6 pointsr/PUBGXboxOne

These blow powerline adapters out of the water.

Actiontec Bonded MoCA 2.0 Ethernet to Coax Adapter, 2 Pack (ECB6200K02) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013J7O3X0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8bLFAb4AZ4KYJ

u/6apcyk · 6 pointsr/wireless

The wifi card might have been damaged or disconnected from the antenna cables. You'll need to open the laptop to get to it. Or you could buy a usb wifi adapter. Like this thing for instance

u/DdCno1 · 6 pointsr/pcgaming

At a combined 2880 x 1440, the two displays actually have 1.6 times the resolution of the standard Rift and Vive (‎2160 x 1200). It's a huge difference, like a generational advantage, comparable to jumping from an old Oculus Dev Kit to the current model. I should mention that despite the much higher resolution, the screen door effect is still there (which means you can still see a raster of pixels in front of your eyes), however, it is now possible to ignore it after a few minutes of playing. With these headsets, you can make out objects in the distance more easily, texture detail increases, text becomes readable, instruments in virtual cockpits are now actually useful (eliminating the need for immersion-breaking HUDs), there is less flickering. Even if your PC can't handle the higher resolution, an upscaled image will still look better, because the screen door effect is less pronounced. Recently, there have been performance improvements and changes to the reprojection algorithm, which have reduced hardware requirements by quite a significant margin. It's actually possible to use these headsets with integrated graphics for less demanding applications like 3D video, virtual tourism apps that mostly rely on 3D photos and simple games.

With the Samsung model, you get the same display resolution and colors (thanks to OLED) as the expensive Vive Pro (2880 x 1600), but better lenses.

Another advantage that Windows MR headsets like the Lenovo Explorer and Samsung HMD have is that the setup is incredibly simple. There are no external sensors, laser projectors, adapters, breakout boxes, power supplies, etc. There's just a single cable with USB 3.0 and HDMI at the end. Setup time at a new location is at most two minutes for full roomscale, just a few seconds for just standing or seated VR. This means that MR headsets are truly portable and can be set up anywhere. All you need is a well lit room. That's why I bought my Lenovo Explorer.

There is one disadvantage to these headsets: The controllers (which need a compatible bluetooth adapter - Microsoft recommends this one, but others can work as well) and their tracking are not as good as those of the Rift and Vive. Head and positional tracking through the built in cameras and sensors is virtually flawless, you can walk aroud in VR just like with the Vive (which is great), but the controllers have to be in front of you at all times in order to be accurately tracked, since they also rely on the cameras used for positional tracking. This isn't a huge issue however, since the camera's field of view is larger than the user's and since in most games, you will be interacting with things that are in front of you. Fast movement outside of the camera's view is still tracked well enough through sensors built into the controllers (like with the Wii), like grabbing a shield from behind your back or swinging a sword around. What can not be denied however is that ergonomically, both Vive and Rift have far better controller shapes. It's not bad though, it's just that this is the one aspect where it becomes obvious why these headsets are less expensive than Rift and Vive.

One great (and in my eyes essential) aspect about Windows MR headsets is that there is almost full compatibility with HTC Vive and Oculus Rift games, via two free tools: Windows Mixed Reality SteamVR (from Microsoft themselves) and ReVive. With the latest Windows update, rumble support has finally been added, which was the only missing feature. Launch just the first tool in order to play games designed for Vive, run the latter for Oculus Rift titles. The number of games with native MR support is also steadily increasing. Here's a regularly updated list of compatible titles:

/r/WindowsMR/comments/7c97lm/steam_games_status/

There is a small selection of VR games and applications on the Windows Store, but the vast majority can be found elsewhere as well, mostly on Steam. One noteworthy exception is HoloTour from Microsoft, which is a fantastic virtual tourism application, the perfect complement to the astonishing Google Earth VR. Definitely check both out!

I hope this helps. Feel free to ask if you have any more questions.

u/frnzwork · 6 pointsr/Vive

Make sure you have a good bluetooth dongle in the line of sight of the headset. This was recommended from Microsoft: (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ZIILLI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Secondly, make sure you have good overhead lighting. Natural lighting doesn't work that well.

Third, if you can, upgrade to the insider version of windows. Things are running much more smoothly on this.

Fourth, see: https://www.windowscentral.com/how-enable-windows-mixed-reality-joysticks-any-steamvr-game

u/bent42 · 6 pointsr/politics

I'm curious for a source too, but it's not at all far fetched. Scanners are tiny nowadays and could easily be put into the feed chute of a shredder. The guts of this would do nicely. Data over power lines certainly isn't a new technology. Hell. You could use a wifi scanner and not even screw with that.

I could cobble this together in my garage over a weekend probably.

Edit to fix link.

u/Charizard9000 · 6 pointsr/buildapc

if you are living at home and/or have access to your router, consider powerline adapters instead. the jist is they let you run a wired signal over your house's power grid, rather than running a huge cable through your house.

there's a few rules about using them, but for 90% of people they work great.

if you're in a dorm or something and cant actually get to the router, than u just want a cheap pci AC adaper, something like this

u/tangobravoyankee · 6 pointsr/homelab

I keep hearing good things about these MoCA 2.0 adapters. MoCA has been around quite a while, it works, and the latest generation stuff is actually gigabit fast.

As someone who has used three generations of powerline stuff, definitely stay away from it unless you have no other alternative. On a good day I see 60Mbps from the "1,200Mbps" adapters and they need to be cold reset (unplugged) after most power flickers.

u/TheKLB · 6 pointsr/msp

Sounds like you are looking for Ubiquiti and a UniFi cloud controller.

http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Enterprise-System-UAP-AC-LITE-US/dp/B015PR20GY/

https://help.ubnt.com/hc/en-us/articles/209376117-UniFi-Install-a-UniFi-Cloud-Controller-on-Amazon-Web-Services

It does everything you're asking and can be fully managed through a web interface without connecting to the clients network

u/jfarre20 · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I recommend MOCA 2.0 over those. I have a bunch at home and they work very well. However, You do need coax run to where you are planning to put your stuff - and it works better when you run it detached from the cable tv network.

edit:fixed url

u/m0ei · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

I use these https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Enterprise-System-UAP-AC-LITE-US/dp/B015PR20GY/

Just spread them around your house. I used 3 for my house, not even a single spot has no/weak signal.

u/doomjuice · 5 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I'd say the TP-Link Archer C7 or the ASUS RT-N66U should do the trick. If you want to go nutty there's always the Ubiquiti EdgeRouter Lite and UniFi AP AC Lite, but this setup isn't as plug-and-play as the first two.

u/Bilbo_Fraggins · 5 pointsr/Ubiquiti

That particular seller is too pricy for the AC pro and probably distorting your decision.

http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-Access/dp/B015PRO512/

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1184036-REG/ubiquiti_networks_uap_ac_pro_unifi_ap.html

I'd still take 2 AC lites over 1 ac pro though if that was the choice.

u/majesticjg · 5 pointsr/homeowners

A lot of the "ooh" and "aah" factor of a home is in the kitchen and bathrooms. That's also where you get the most money back at resale.

So if you're deciding where to spend money, that's where to spend it.

You've probably been advised to run ethernet network wiring. I'd also plan to hide wireless access points like these in the attic or other hidden areas. You will be amazed how much you enjoy stable, fast wifi access throughout the house for your various devices. Wired ethernet is better, but most devices these days have wifi built in and don't need gigabit transfer speeds. Just use it.

Where will your broadband modem go? Now's the time to plan for distribution of TV/network/etc. and designate an "IT closet."

Decide now where you might want wall-mounted TVs and plan for it with power and other connections. A nice recessed outlet with cable management can make that whole process much simpler.

In the garage, at the least, wire for 20A outlets. You never know if a future tool or device will need a lot of power, and it's not fun to retrofit. Is there a possibility that you'll ever have an electric vehicle or plug-in hybrid? If so, wire one 240v/90A circuit for each potential EV. That'll max out a new Tesla, even if it has the high-amperage charger upgrade.

I adore having a separate beverage/wine fridge and separate under-counter ice maker. They're expensive, but they make hosting a party much easier. Another must-have is a built-in warming drawer. It's super convenient and I can't believe how often we use ours to keep something warm while the rest of dinner is finishing up or because someone was late getting home and didn't get to eat with the family.

u/deebeeoh · 5 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Uhm, none of the above? Yeah none of the above. It looks like you are looking to spend around $200-230 for your networking gear, which is fine, we can work with that!

  • Router: Ubiquiti Edgerouter X normally $50 but appears to be $60 right now. Get fucked I guess.
  • Switch: TP-Link switch $25
  • Access Point: Ubiquiti Unifi UAP-AC-Pro $130

    Total is around $210

    Now here is the thing with this setup. You will mount your access point on the ceiling as close to the center of your home as you can. It will give you much better coverage than the netgear setups, as well as a far more mature and stable access point. If in the future you decide you need better coverage still you can just buy a second one and hook it up, make sure to wire it back into the switch as well. The access point comes with a PoE injector so you only need to run a single line to it.

    You are buying gear for your business, buy business grade gear :) Especially because it costs you the same anyway.

u/TechnicolorSushiCat · 5 pointsr/houston

Well, some free advice that you can take or leave - you spent entirely too much money on that router. I mean, there's overspending and then there's overspending. You overspent big time. You paid for that router what equipment from Ruckus costs.

You will recieve exactly zero benefit from 802.11ad, considering you have no devices which can use this speed, your internet provider will not come close to maxing out AC in the next 10 years, along with the fact that your average x265 compressed 4K stream is about 12 mbps. You might, maybe possibly find one that is 100 mbit. Regardless,you have no need whatsoever for 802.11ad.

As far as your wifi coverage, all you need is a decent 3x3 router with normal antennas. Funky plastic desinged to look like a stealth bomber does nothing for your wifi. The following router/access point is $90 bucks at Microcenter, amazon, or newegg

http://www.microcenter.com/product/414584/ARCHER_C7_Wireless_AC1750_Dual_Band_Gigabit_Router

If you need you can even buy two for less than half of what you did pay. It is what I use at home, they work well.

You could also explore Ubiquiti AC-Pro access point models, but it does seem like you need a router. But, again, you can buy three of these for less than one access point you did buy, and they will cover every square inch of your house.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512

Lastly, your offer of $20 bucks an hour is low. Good IT is $100/hour on the low end. But, your suggestion of $150 is a fair price for someone to come and do this job right for you.

u/kingphysics · 5 pointsr/Android

It could be possible but I don't know if it would the phone would pump out that much power.

We already have stuff like http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003MTTJOY/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/190-9632706-9095906 (I use one on my older laptop that has a fried wlan card, this USB wlan works like a charm)


If we can get a USB OTG phone and somehow load the drivers for this USB wifi adapter and then add software that makes the WiFi Hotspot work, then sure.

u/davrax · 5 pointsr/cordcutters

There are a few options out there, Motorola's are consistently rated very highly. I've linked to one here that supports up to a 172 mbps downstream, but doesn't have a built in wireless router (you would have to plug in a wireless router to access the internet wirelessly). There are also a few options to pick from that include wireless routers, and/or support faster speeds if you need it (it won't make your existing connection faster though, it just supports a higher level of bandwidth).

https://smile.amazon.com/SURFboard-SB6121-DOCSIS-Retail-Packaging/dp/B004XC6GJ0

This would be a good option if you want a built-in wifi router:

https://smile.amazon.com/SURFboard-SBG6782AC-DOCSIS-AC1800-Router/dp/B00GJ7Y7MU

You will have to call Comcast to provision the modem (basically just read them the MAC Address on the bottom of the modem and wait a few minutes). I've done this twice, and it's been straightforward. You can always just tell them that you don't like the idea of hosting a public hotspot (which you do if you have a Comcast modem with built in wifi-- it broadcasts on SSID "xfinitywifi" and is accessible by anyone that has a Comcast subscription).

u/shuebacca · 5 pointsr/SanJose

I got the "Motorola SB6121"

Also the "Motorola SB6141" is a good one too. It's technically "better" since it has an more down stream channels then the 6121. I bought the lower model since it was cheaper.

I got it on amazon and made sure it was new in retail box, direct from Amazon and not a 3rd party seller.

u/boshaus · 5 pointsr/houston

Yeah, getting your own pays off in less than a year. Everyone should do this.

http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SB6121-SURFboard-DOCSIS/dp/B004XC6GJ0/ can handle up to 160mbps
http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SurfBoard-SB6141-DOCSIS/dp/B00AJHDZSI/ can handle up to 320mbps

Not that it matters right now, but the 6141 has a little more futureproofing.

u/MaybeImNaked · 5 pointsr/NoStupidQuestions

So the first thing you should decide is what type of internet to get. The vast majority of people get cable or fiber (if they can afford it and if it's available). Both of those options give you good reliable internet. The cheap option is to get DSL which works over telephone lines. DSL usually has low speeds and isn't as reliable but only costs like $30 a month compared to $60-100 for better internet. If you like to stream movies or do anything outside of very basic browsing, I would say to get cable if you can afford it. What you do then is find a provider for that internet (internet service provider - ISP). Comcast, Cox, AT&T, Verizon, and many local companies are ISPs but you're probably limited to only one or two in whatever region you live (assuming USA). You should also know that these companies have random naming conventions for their services (Comcast calls their cable Xfinity while AT&T calls theirs Uverse) So you go to their web sites and compare plans and find something that works for you (if you don't know what speed you need, I would recommend 20 Mbps or more for streaming and normal use, 50 Mbps if you're a really heavy user). You can use this to find out what providers even have wiring in your area (if the top speed for a certain provider only shows as 10-25 mbps, then it's likely only DSL).

If you go with cable, you'll need both a modem (which receives the internet connection from the cable built into your apartment) and a router (which takes that wired connection and turns it into wireless - wifi). I would recommend buying your own hardware because companies like Comcast charge you something like $7-10 a month per modem/router that you get from them, which ends up being more expensive than buying your own to start with. If you buy your own modem, make sure it will work with whatever cable provider you select (something like this is standard). After that, you hook up your router. There are many to choose from. You can get one for as little as $10-30, but I would recommend getting a better one like this if you can as it performs exceptionally well and is easy to set up as well.

If you have any specific questions, let me know.

u/aboardthegravyboat · 5 pointsr/technology

Make sure it's DOCSIS 3.0 and also look at the number of channels up and down.
http://www.amazon.com/Arris-SURFboard-SB6121-Download-Packaging/dp/B004XC6GJ0/
That one is 4 channels up and 4 channels down. It says on the box that it'll max out at 172Mbps. If you're paying for more than that, you're going to need a better one.

u/paticao · 5 pointsr/PleX

You can grab the Asus
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ABOJKS/ref=twister_B00NQQWQ3Y

Or you can get the nighthawk for 180 but can be found for less if you search online
http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00F0DD0I6

u/BuddyPal200 · 5 pointsr/AskSF

I have Webpass and love it. You can use wifi which will give you about 500mb/s but a wired connection will get you up to 1gb/s.

Your "phone jack"/"cable jack" should be the same, its just an ethernet jack. The webpass technician can explain all this and help you get set up.

You'll need to buy the router yourself,
this is the one I use but just search around on Amazon if that one doesn't work for you.

u/Bobsagetluvr · 5 pointsr/techsupport

The TP-LINK Archer C5 is a good cheap router.

If you have more in your budget, I'd go with the C7

And then, even better (imo) but more expensive, the Asus AC68U

u/Opticine · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/aninfinitedesign · 5 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Not really - they're trying to get the price as low as possible while still generating profit. I'm sure they have stats on how many people use the port, and it didn't make sense to include it when looking at the cost / benefit analysis.

People that want it can pick up an adapter for $15 and go on their way.

u/EpicDerp37272 · 5 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Will this work on the switch?

u/largepanda · 5 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

> Can I just use any inexpensive ethernet adaptor, or is it recommended that I use the one specific for the Switch?

The Switch can only use adapters with chips that are, or act like, the ASIX AX88772 chipset.

You don't need a Switch branded one though. I suggest this AmazonBasics one, although you need the USB3 version; even though the Switch doesn't support USB3, the USB2 variant uses a non-compatible chipset.

> Will anything bad happen like the bricking when put into a 3rd party dock, or will there really be no difference?

It just won't work. Nothing bad will happen, but nothing at all will happen.

----
See this post for more information.

u/-Rivox- · 5 pointsr/talesfromtechsupport

you need this ethernet to usb adapter plus this apple usb c adapter.

I don't know if the macbook is compatible with other usb c adapters though. If it is, then you could save a little there, but still, 100$ to connect with an ethernet cable, after purchasing a 1000+$ pc...

u/inferno10 · 5 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I think the problem might be the ethernet adapter. I don't have that adapter, but it looks like the USB 2.0 version doesn't work with the Switch; you want the USB 3.0 version.

EDIT: Yeah, I definitely think it's your adapter. Look at all the reviews that mention the Switch on the USB 2.0 version versus the USB 3.0 version

u/captainguinness · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

Tired of renting our router from Xfinity. Would this be a good purchase?

NETGEAR Nighthawk Smart WiFi Router (R6700) - AC1750 Wireless Speed (up to 1750 Mbps) | Up to 1500 sq ft Coverage & 25 Devices | 4 x 1G Ethernet and 1 x 3.0 USB ports | Armor Security https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R2AZLD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OrIlDbK06QEAT

Edit: thanks y'all I love this subreddit

u/Ganondorf_Is_God · 5 pointsr/dragonballfighterz

You're not going to have any issues if you're on 5ghz with a wireless N or AC router. They aren't even expensive.

A wireless AC router is just as good as plugging in an ethernet cable and should get you gigabit speeds.

The only caveat is the original PS4 doesn't support 5ghz iirc. The slim and the new one do though and every model of the Xbox One does.

EDIT: I also posted more info in this post too but some ignoramus' (including OP) just downvoted it out of sheer ignorance.

EDIT 2: Here's a link to a great and affordable gigabit wireless AC router. Only 90 bucks. ASUS makes one for about 65 that's almost as good (shittier management interface/options).

u/stevecrox0914 · 5 pointsr/debian

You can by AP Clients for not much money, basically they can be configured to connect to a wifi network and then expose a ethernet port for you to connect a device to. I've yet to meet a ethernet device Debians installer can't figure out.

I use the below for installing things on to my tablet hybrid:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00TQEX8BO/ref=twister_B01KPTBU0O?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

u/m_it · 5 pointsr/Pitt

Couldn't agree more. Had issues last year, then got this modem and this router and have been flying ever since. Spending $90 may seem steep, but you pay monthly to rent it anyways.

u/GamingWithBilly · 5 pointsr/Comcast

Those messages about speeds being inadequate is done because owners of modems with the DOCSIS 2.0 or lessor are not going to get the speeds they pay for. Those messages do not come through on modems DOCSIS 3.0 or higher because you can get the full speeds.

I own a DOCSIS 3.0 modem - this is the one I purchased: http://amzn.com/B004XC6GJ0

Here is also the list of DOCSIS 3.0 modems approved by comcast based on speed tiers, just select what speed you're getting and it'll show you the compatible modems: http://mydeviceinfo.xfinity.com/

u/SanDiegoPics · 5 pointsr/sandiego

Plug your computer straight into the modem and do a speed test. Write down whatever speed you got and then test the speed over your wi-fi. If there is a large difference you are having issues with your wireless connection. Quite a few things can cause problems with wifi especially if you live a high density area. There are a few phone apps that will actually find open wifi channels that aren't being used by your neighbor and after you find one you can set your router to that channel manually. In addition to that Cox often has problems with their DNS servers so I tend to use googles (8.8.8.8 8.8.4.4)

Edit: There's a lot of information in the paragraph so please feel free to pick my brain with any questions.

Double Edit: I would definitely bite the bullet and buy your own router if you are trying to play games and stream stuff. 100 bucks nowadays gets you a do everything router with a 5ghz connection instead of 2.4 which is a lot better for streaming and online games. This is a good example

u/braxxytaxi · 5 pointsr/techsupport

You might want to check if you can run multiple devices off your connection as they may only provide you with one IP address (similar to a normal home service from an ISP).

In this case you will need a router to connect up all your devices. Any standard home router will do the trick. I use an ASUS RT N66U - 4 wired gigabit ports, 802.11n Wi-Fi and it's nice and speedy with my 100mbit WAN connection. $129.99 @ Amazon.

However if your uni/college allows for multiple devices per room (ie, they provide you with multiple IP addresses) you will be able to get away with using an ethernet switch. As mentioned in other comments, opt a model with faster Gigabit ports as nowadays there is really no big price difference and the extra bandwidth could come in handy one day. A basic 5-port TP-Link Gigabit switch is $19.99 @ Amazon (or you can get an 8-port model for $24.99 @ Amazon).

Don't get a hub. I honestly haven't seen one on sale for years anyway, good luck trying to track one down!

u/hi_lampworking · 5 pointsr/baltimore

Don't keep your wifi bound to their shitty equipment.

Do a hard-wired connection from their shitty modem to a better wifi router like this ASUS model. We use these at work and their range is pretty awesome. We went from needing four routers in the building to only needing two.

u/MoChuang · 5 pointsr/buildmeapc

Just get a USB wifi adapter. Something like this or if you want one thats smaller and less in the way you can get this one. The smaller one probably has less range and lower max speed.

Or if you have extra expansion slots and need faster wifi you can get a PCIe wifi card like this.

NOTE: I haven't done much research on this so the listed products are just examples of the types of solutions available. By no means am I recommending these as the best in their respective classes. I just own TP-link stuff and trust them is all.

u/badillin · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace

2 story house? id forget about wifi and get a bunch of powerline adapters like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AWRUICG/

u/BE_Airwaves · 5 pointsr/RocketLeague

Micro-stuttering and high ping spikes are usually caused by packet loss, which often has to do with shitty WiFi. Some games seem to handle poor connections worse than others. I had a similar experience with Titanfall 2.

I resolved in by plugging in Ethernet. It's not a convenient solution, but since the connection issues are coming from you, there's nothing the devs can really do.

If you don't have an ethernet port in your room, try a Powerline adapter. (Not an affiliate link or anything, just an example of the cheapest one you can get)

You get two adapters. Plug one into a wall outlet near your modem and plug an ethernet cord into it. Then you plug the other one into a wall outlet near your computer/xbox/PS4, and plug an ethernet cable from it into your machine. It basically turns your powerlines into a giant ethernet cable. It's not as fast as direct, but it's a million times better and more reliable than WiFi.

u/EverGlow89 · 5 pointsr/pcgaming

Yep!

I got this one

I learned about it when I was planning my PC and looking for ways around having to use wifi. thought it was too good to be true. It isn't.

u/dm_reck · 5 pointsr/CoDCompetitive

Very nicely done /u/drift0r. Way to keep it simple enough for the average person to understand.

What I really would like to know is what would be the benefit of getting an expensive router such as Netgear's Nighthawk AC1900 vs. the standard router/modem that comcast provides me with already? Is this where QoS becomes a huge defining factor or is that router just so expensive because of the power and range it offers for the wireless signal?

EDIT: Basically, is the nighthawk worth even considering or any "gaming" routers for that matter?

u/pleasebantalon · 5 pointsr/UCI

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FNFSPY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Its $10 and its a plug and play. Dont waste your money on buying another router

u/ItsADanThing · 5 pointsr/buildapc

Unfortunately most gaming headsets are quite overpriced, a popular option without spending a lot is this mic that clips onto normal headphone wires ($8) maybe get that and save up for a better headset or some good headphones and a modmic.

For the internet if you have to use wireless get the internal card, if you can run an ethernet cable do that and consider a cheap usb adapter for interim.

u/yardmonkey · 5 pointsr/hacking

I think you're mixing issues... Klisch will certainly let you install software or drivers if you need.

And antennas don't need drivers or software, it's the card that needs a driver.

I use an Alfa external card, and Amazon will recommend several antennas if you need more than that.

https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-802-11b-Wireless-Original-9dBi/dp/B001O9X9EU

I've also heard good stuff about TPLink external cards. https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN722N/dp/B002SZEOLG

u/kyfho · 5 pointsr/DIY

I would take a Raspberry Pi.
Add an HDMI to VGA Cable.
Mix in a little Wi-fi Adapter.
Season to taste. (Wireless KB/M, USB drive, Chromecast, Wireless controller, Nintendo Emulator, Wireless speakers, etc...)
Mount behind monitor and mount monitor on wall in garage or bathroom and add a dash of power.
And then play games, watch movies, sports, etc....In the bathroom, garage, shed...

^(I have no idea if this would work but now I want to try it).

^^*Fixed ^^spelling

u/phirewire110 · 5 pointsr/Android

$8

Edimax EW-7811Un 150Mbps 11n Wi-Fi USB Adapter, Nano Size Lets You Plug it and Forget it, Ideal for Raspberry Pi / Pi2, Supports Windows, Mac OS, Linux (Black/Gold) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_e.tNxbKF8WXNB

u/thewrongstuff95 · 5 pointsr/BSD

This adapter works when following these instructions.

u/cherwilco · 5 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Ubiquiti Edgerouter X workhorse of a router for the price

Ubiquiti Uap Ac Lite excellent wap that will far outperform that old linksys. step up to the pro if you need more range or have a lot of wifi devices

u/ixxxt · 5 pointsr/chromeos

I found that using a better bluetooth controller works better. If you know how to use bluetoothctl in the terminal its super useful. Something like this will work well.
The bluetooth works much better for me after as the built in one i got about a metre away before it would have issues now i can get 20m~ with the external one. I have a feeling its a mix between cheap bluetooth designs and the drivers for the chips. For reference I have a C101PA

u/Stridyr · 5 pointsr/WindowsMR

I'll add to this thread.

If your motherboard has integrated bluetooth, it most likely has the antennae at the back of the computer and probably has wifi combined with it. Both of these are a problem. Get a "dongle" and use a cable to bring it to your desktop or use one of the usb ports on the front of your computer.

As per Microsoft: do NOT use a usb3 port!

Microsoft recommended dongle.

u/charlie2fly · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You can buy Bluetooth adapters for under $15 while the Xbox adapter currently costs $32, so this is a good thing.

u/kesekimofo · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

It'd be cheaper to just get a Bluetooth adapter on Amazon while you're at it. At least then you can use it for other things as well.

One like this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ZIILLI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_J4ZPyb23DGPF1

u/Kershek · 5 pointsr/WindowsMR

Microsoft suggested this bluetooth adapter for WMR in one of their troubleshooting guides.

u/gusgizmo · 5 pointsr/Ubiquiti

You could do 3 sets of these to throw data around the park, for 6 units total. 3 would be mounted on your main building:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-NanoStation-Dedicated-Management-NS-5ACL-US/dp/B078NN1J4K

Then 4 of these, 1 in the main building, 3 in the corners of the park:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UAP-AC-M-US-Unifi-Access-Point/dp/B01N9FIELY

If you still have dead spots to fill in, you would add in more Unifi Mesh AP's, and use the wireless uplink mode. If you do that I'd suggest swapping in a Mesh Pro to improve capacity for that cell.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UAP-AC-M-PRO-US-Unifi-Access-Point/dp/B01N1VMBUR

The idea is to avoid using the Unifi wireless uplink mode as it cuts down the capacity of that cell. Uplinking multiple times really hurts a lot, especially with many hungry clients. Start with a solid foundation, and stretch out the installation only where necessary.

I'd top it all off with a USG and a cheap 8 port switch

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Security-Gateway-USG/dp/B00LV8YZLK

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Ethernet-Optimization-Unmanaged-TL-SG108/dp/B00A121WN6

You'll also want a cloudkey to manage the Unifi computers, or consider loading the controller software on a PC. And don't forget to buy 6 gigabit 24v PoE injectors for the nanostations, or 3 of these and a 4 port 24v gigabit midspan injector:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-POE-24-0-5A-Gigabit-Port/dp/B00NAENDX4

u/rainmakerraw · 5 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Assuming you don't need PoE (as you didn't mention it), the two 'best' for your situation are likely the TP-Link SG108 or Netgear ProSafe GS108UK. Both are unmanaged 8 port gigabit switches with metal enclosures (for longevity and passive heat transfer).

They perform similarly - that is, very well with full 8x 2Gbps = 16Gbps backplane. Personally, although I do have the TP-Link due to a special offer I took advantage of, I'd actually recommend the Netgear.

The TP-Link has cheap no-name capacitors on its board, which will give up sooner rather than later (all caps dry out eventually). Amazingly the Netgear has no caps at all. Literally there's nothing to go wrong on the thing; by rights it should last practically forever. I'll be replacing my TP-Links with them when the time comes.

u/SpyCake1 · 5 pointsr/Cruise

Kids these days....

But back on point, I'd recommend a nano/travel router like this one here - https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Travel-Extender-TL-WR802N/dp/B00TQEX8BO/ref=dp_ob_title_hi

u/Gooble-Snorf · 5 pointsr/networking

There is truth to this statement. I was adapting the argument from what I recommend regarding server/workstation backups (which are lackluster, untested, or nonexistent in many places I've consulted for).

The main point I like to get at though is the increased reliability in having hardware meant for heavy or 24/7 use, and then not too difficult to replace if things go pear-shaped. Also that they wouldn't necessarily need to be replaced with the same exact model.

I've recommended cheapo setups with SOHO gear, but with a spare on-hand pre-configured for the environment. However I can no longer recommend off-the-shelf gear for the most part, with things like this edgerouter X becoming so cheap and available.

u/dirk150 · 5 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Do note, business/prosumer class routers are routers alone. They don't provide WiFi. As for your Edit two posts above, that's not SQM, that's just their branding of QoS. If a consumer router has SQM it'll be a tad bit more expensive, $200+ since it's going to be marketed toward gamer types, and that commands a premium.

The Edgerouter X is well-loved here because it's a cheap ($50 compared to Cisco's $300+), small, business router that can handle 1 Gbps one way. There's SQM on it, you can isolate guest networks with it, consumes 5 Watts at max load, is metal, and is more configurable than all the consumer routers.

If you choose to get one of these wired-only routers, you can plug in your wireless router, set it to AP mode, and it'll do its WiFi thing, transmitting data to the wired-only router to be routed.

u/FFFan15 · 5 pointsr/PS4

check out a thing called Powerline Adapter https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-ethernet-Adapter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=sr_1_3?crid=ZS4BI96GD1BJ&keywords=powerline+adapter&qid=1550932169&s=gateway&sprefix=powerline+ad%2Caps%2C339&sr=8-3 its basically a wired connection through your existing powerlines in the walls its convenient because you don't have to stretch a long Ethernet cord all the way to your console https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ywQeJCa3jl8

u/safhjkldsfajlkf · 5 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Well you can use the defective cat5e cable as a fish to pull a new cable run. You need to detach/destaple it, and redo the job. Depending on the run, it might be difficult, but it's the only way to get gigabit.

​

If you have 100mbps internet or less, you won't see a difference as long as you're not copying files across the devices. Use your cable tester on your cat5e cable, if you have at least 4 good pins, rewire those to pins 1,2,3,6 (from left to right on the connector).

If you don't have 4 good wires, well you need to rerun anyway.

There's always powerline adapters, but those are hit or miss. Make sure you have a good return policy (Walmart).

​

​

u/xTBain · 5 pointsr/PS4

You can probably try a powerline adapter. This one will run you about $40.

u/4wh457 · 5 pointsr/Windows10

So you're essentially using wifi because the extender is wirelessly connected to your router and that's the most likely culprit here. If you can't pull a direct cable from your PC to your router then the next best thing is powerline ethernet.

u/NATOFox · 5 pointsr/SmashBrosUltimate

TP-Link TL-PA4010KIT AV600 Nano Powerline Adapter Starter Kit, up to 600Mbps https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sFmWDb503BQ0H

I'm not saying you should do this. I'm saying you might have an option you weren't aware of.

u/Tiinpa · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

Eh, they're cheap enough just to try it. This is the set I went with. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWRUICG/

u/ernthedon · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1501130350&sr=8-3&keywords=powerline+adapter

You should consider using one of these. I use one to have Ethernet hard wired to my PC in my home office which is not near the router. Speed is legit.

u/catalyst518 · 4 pointsr/TagPro

Use an ethernet cable if you are able.

If you have access to your router, you can try changing the channel settings to minimize interference with other nearby networks. Wifi Analyzer is an app you can use to find the best channel.

If the issue with ethernet is the distance to your router, you could look into something like these: https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B00AWRUICG

Plug one into your router and then plug in the other one wherever you play in your house and you'll get all the advantages of an ethernet cable.

u/TheDyingSun · 4 pointsr/pcgaming

It sends the signal over the power lines.

You plug them into electrical sockets. Some are better than others. You definitely want to do research before buying.

I use some that work flawlessly, except they disconnect every once in a while, and take a few minutes to reconnect. The signal is great over a pretty long distance, and the speeds are as advertised.

u/mp3three · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

One thing to keep in mind is your speed is going to be only as fast as the slowest point. Since you didn't mention it, I'd recommend physically connecting a computer to the router and seeing what kind of speeds you get you of that. If your ISP just isn't delivering on the high speed, going super fast inside the house won't get you anywhere (unless you do a lot of file transfers inside the house).

I don't know what kind of building materials are used in your house, but the majority of the time wifi will work just fine. For myself, I started with a set of Powerline Adapters, but was relatively unimpressed with them. Your wiring may work better though, try them out and keep your receipt.

I ended up using just regular wifi for my setup, and since I am only paying for 100 down, it is more than fast enough. The adapter I got has big antenna, and going through a few walls isn't an issue at all. Whole lot cheaper (and less effort) than trying to run some wires over to where my office is. Strangely, I get better / more consistant performance out of the regular wifi channels rather than the 5ghz too. Still goes faster than my internet, so I don't care

u/FunkyFortuneNone · 4 pointsr/RocketLeague

MAC addresses are tied to the physical adapter being used. A "MAC address ban" could be easily circumvented by buying one of these or even more simply, switching from wifi to ethernet or ethernet to wifi (as it would be a different physical adapter hence different MAC address).

u/Torengo · 4 pointsr/CrazyHand

AmazonBasics USB 3.0 to 10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M77HMU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EC3vCbH07JBQR

UGREEN Network Adapter USB 3.0 to Ethernet RJ45 Lan Gigabit Adapter for 10/100/1000 Mbps Ethernet Supports Nintendo Switch Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYTSN18/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oC3vCb173PES1

u/Mysterius · 4 pointsr/Dell

Older Thunderbolt 1 and 2 devices, such as those designed for Apple Mac products, would need an adapter to work with Thunderbolt 3, since Thunderbolt 1 and 2 used Mini DisplayPort (mDP) ports while Thunderbolt 3 switched to USB Type-C.

From slowest to fastest, you have:

  • 480 Mbits/s: USB 2.0
  • 5 Gbits/s: USB 3.0 (aka "USB 3.1 Gen 1", confusingly)
  • 10 Gbits/s: USB 3.1 Gen 2 (aka true USB 3.1)
  • 40 Gbits/s: Thunderbolt 3

    That's for speed. For the shape of the plug, you can either have USB Type-A (traditional USB shape) or Type-C (the new shape). There's not necessarily any connection between the shape of the plug and speed, though on the XPS 15 9550 the only Type-C port is a Thunderbolt 3 / USB 3.1 Gen 2 port, while the other Type-A ports are USB 3.0. The new MacBook and Chromebook Pixel have USB 3.1 Gen 1 (equivalent to USB 3.0 speed) Type-C ports, while many smartphones coming out with Type-C ports are still working at USB 2.0 speeds.

    USB 3.0 or above would be preferable, so that gigabit Ethernet is supported. You can get one that uses the Type-C port if you want, but it will still work at the same speed (USB 3.0) as the normal Type-A version. Adapters that take advantage of USB 3.1, much less Thunderbolt 3, are still rather rare. In any case, using Thunderbolt 3 just for Ethernet would be overkill: better to save the Thunderbolt 3 port for a full-scale dock or an external graphics card.

    So, enough background. Some options:

  • AmazonBasics USB 3.0 to 10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet Adapter ($16.95)
  • Anker Unibody Aluminum 3-Port USB 3.0 and Gigabit Ethernet Hub ($26.99)
  • Anker USB-C to 3-Port USB 3.0 Hub with Ethernet Adapter for USB Type-C Devices ($27.99)

    The two Anker devices also include a three port USB 3.0 hub, for connecting other stuff.
u/sonsonmcnugget · 4 pointsr/cordcutters

I use this Netgear Nighthawk. Works great for me and very affordable. There is a mobile application that makes it very easy to make changes to your network like changing your wifi name and password and managing devices connected to your network.

u/theotherdanlynch · 4 pointsr/buildapc

Forget about a card. You'll get a faster, more reliable connection with a bridge and won't need to screw around with drivers. If your router is 802.11AC, get this one for $35. If your router is 802.11N, get this one for $30. In either case, put it in "Client" mode and connect it to your computer with a short Ethernet cable. Also connect a USB cable from the computer to the bridge to power it so it'll turn on/off with your computer.

u/l3rian · 4 pointsr/googlehome

TP-Link N300 Wireless Portable Nano Travel Router - WiFi Bridge/Range Extender/Access Point/Client Modes, Mobile in Pocket(TL-WR802N) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TQEX8BO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_f1Y3BbX91J5NC

This is what you will want. You can tell it to connect to your apartment's Wi-Fi with it and then set your own hot spot up with your own password. Put the chromecast, home and any other device you want private on there. I have one for a similar situation and it works great! 👍

u/InsaneNinja · 4 pointsr/shortcuts

Apple takes full advantage of Wifi-Direct, so you may end up not even needing to put your phone on WiFi all that often. Or just simply turn off Auto-Join.

Personally I would use a little Wi-Fi re-broadcaster with a hidden SSID. Such as this.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Portable-Travel-Router/dp/B00TQEX8BO

u/fizzlebottom · 4 pointsr/Seattle

Here are the suggestions:

Motorola SB5101u if you just want to keep service and essentially tread water. This modem is old, but still supported. It won't take advantage of the newer DOCSIS 3.0/3.1 technologies, but neither will your Comcast service.

Motorola SB6121 or SB6141 will allow you to keep service, be supported for a longer time than the older SB5101, and take advantage of DOCSIS 3.0/3.1 technologies

u/evilcheerio · 4 pointsr/personalfinance

Motorla surfboard has been working well for me on comcast.

u/everlong · 4 pointsr/SandersForPresident

Welcome, /r/cordcutters! Dropping TV is really the best way to diminish the money and influence of corporate media, even if you're stuck paying your cable company because it's the only decent internet provider in your area. Whether or not you drop cable, you can save a further $8-10/mo by buying your own cable modem instead of renting from your ISP.

Excellent modems are just $50 or $70, or cheaper secondhand. I'd recommend retaining your return receipt long-term, as cable companies frequently continue charging for stuff you canceled/returned, and you'll want some evidence down-the-line to shut down their fraudulent fuckery.

Lists of Compatible Modems for Different ISPs: Comcast, TimeWarner Cable, Cox, Charter, MediaCom, Bright House

The following modems all have exceptional ratings:

  • Motorola SB6141 ($69) (pretty future-proof, and necessary for speeds over 150Mbps)
  • Motorola SB6183 ($99) (only necessary if you have top-tier speeds of 300Mbps+)
  • Motorola SB6121 ($49) (fastest payback, and good enough for most plans)


    Any DOCSIS 3.0/3.1 modem will do, but I'd recommend against getting a combined modem/router (also called a "gateway"). Wireless standards get updated a lot more frequently than internet speeds, and if there's ever a problem with your internet, it's much easier to isolate the problem if you have separate devices.
u/BallsDeepInYou · 4 pointsr/Bellingham

I have had Comcast in bellingham for the last 3 years and have only had an outage or slowdowns twice. The first outage was out for about 5 hours when there was a windstorm and then just last week I believe when there was another. The downside reason for these is that we up here in bham do not have under the ground fiber in a lot of areas as they are on the power lines in most cases.

Now, I am not defending comcast, but I also used to do networking for companies and 90% of the time people were having slowdown issues (not service issues) was because they were using an old/really bad router/modem. What I would recommend is not using the modem and router that they give you (they give you a combo now), they are complete shit.

  1. They have xfinity wifi which if a bunch of people connect to will slow your connection down a lot.
  2. a router is just like a computer. I could turn the computer you are reading this on into a router if I wanted to.

    Now with this in mind slow downs are all about connections. Connections are the bane of shitty hardware routers. Let's say that every time you go to a website you make 1 connection. well if you have 200 people on your router that is 200 connections per website. But that isn't really the case. Every time you go to a website you are going to be making at least 5-8 different connections, because of all the ads and other things that have been coded into the website. so lets say you have 4 people on your router and that is now 32 connections. Well now lets say you have 8 different tabs open per 4 people with 8 connections per tab now you have 256 connections. For a bad router that is getting up there and add to the fact that it is probably the modem router combo. It is going to be even worse in its ability to handle connections. This is even worse if you have xfinity wifi as while it may not affect your "speed" like they say it will overwhelm the router. My friend had one in the UW area in seattle. It was incredibly slow and we upgraded the router/modem to ones that I had them buy and now they have no issues what so ever.

    If you want to have less issues with slow downs you really need your own router and modem. here is what I would recommend.

    Motorola SB6121

    http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SB6121-SURFboard-DOCSIS/dp/B004XC6GJ0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415128088&sr=8-1&keywords=motorola+modem

    D-link DIR-655

    http://www.amazon.com/D-Link-Wireless-Extreme-N-Gigabit-DIR-655/dp/B000LIFB7S/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&srs=2529294011&ie=UTF8&qid=1415128174&sr=1-1&keywords=d-link

    These are the best for the price and they get the job done better than everything else I have tried without getting into really expensive business hardware. That modem is rock solid. Also the benefit of owning your own is that it pays for itself. You don't have the 8$ equipment rental fee anymore.

    TL;DR buy that stuff I linked above and 90% of your issues will go away. I can handle over 800 different connections at once on that router. AND IT WILL SAVE YOU MONEY IN THE LONG RUN.
u/ugknite · 4 pointsr/cordcutters

I have the Motorola SB6121 SURFboard DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem. There is a newer version SB6141. I am not sure what do you get with the newer version though.

u/MithrilKnight · 4 pointsr/SiouxFalls

They use DOCSIS 3.0. Here is a modem that would suit you very well:

http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-SB6121-SURFboard-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B004XC6GJ0/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1367523882&sr=1-1

Midco is very fast and reliable.

u/thelocalmoron · 4 pointsr/techsupport

I'll suggest that you get them separate, mainly for two big reasons in my head:

  1. As /u/wft_gamer pointed out below somewhere around here, combo units typically aren't as reliable (in my experience as well) and will lack features.
  2. Separation allows you to only replace one of two devices, instead of one whole device in case. You'll want a reliable modem and a separate router also because you can replace just the router if you are so inclined to, such as when you're looking for some shiny new features, like 802.11ac or Gigabit Ethernet.

    I suggest getting the SB6121, which supports DOCSIS 3.0, something important that you'll need to keep in mind when purchasing modems so that you'll get the most bandwidth out of your connection. Then pick out a router that you like.

    If you are set on picking out a combined router/modem combo (again, not advised), here are key words you'll want to find (they're usually promoted somewhere on the box in big letters):

  • DOCSIS (that's the cable modem standard)
  • Wireless-N (That's a home router feature)
  • 4-port (Router)
  • Router/Modem (Okay, this one is sorta obvious.)
u/mbz321 · 4 pointsr/Comcast

Do you currently rent a modem? If so, you can buy your own for $60.....you have probably 'bought' your current modem a dozen times over in rental fees.

There are benefits to a new modem if you are on a higher-speed package. That being said, the ones provided by Comcast now let you 'share' your connection with other Comcast users (which can be disabled, but it isn't well documented).
Comcast will eventually stop supporting Doscis 2.0 modems (which you likely have if you have not upgraded for a while), but you can simply buy one like this and be okay. http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SurfBoard-SB6121-DOCSIS/dp/B004XC6GJ0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426271479&sr=8-1&keywords=motorola+surfboard

u/HWTechGuy · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Something like this. Basically, it will let you run an ethernet connection via coax.

https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200K02/dp/B013J7O3X0

​

I am sure others can chime in regarding the specifics of setting it up with your Comcast service. I haven't had Comcast or run MOCA in years, but it did work very well when I did.

​

u/dauntlessTech · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

MOCA is worth the investment. You just need a cheap router from goowill to blanket the house with WiFi. I use this one

u/Sullacuda · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Unless the cabling has been cut or otherwise disconnected inside the walls you most certainly should be able to use MoCa adapters to bridge ethernet through any available coax outlet in your apartment. I use actiontec double bonded moca 2.0 adapters and get ~980mbps across the existing coax in our house.
https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200K02/dp/B013J7O3X0

Useful to run ethernet from fiber terminal in the front of the house to a switch in the back that provides ethernet to server, two smartTvs, nas, printer and an AP providing signal to outdoor cams

u/ctrocks · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

It goes a little above budget, but, they are both very solid devices, and recommended like crazy here.

Go with a separate router and AP. You get better placement for the access point and a router that can handle a lot more than 150MBps.

Ubiquiti AP-AC-Lite

Edgerouter Lite

If you want a not as capable, but still fast and cheaper router, Edgerouter-X

u/Luxin · 4 pointsr/DIY

WiFi range extenders are not an optimal solution for high bandwidth uses like streaming, or for use in gaming since they can add some latency to the connection.

A floor plan of the house would help to see what you are dealing with here. And how many Square feet? Without this info, everything below is a guess.

I would do the following. You may not want to make such an investment.

  • Remove the range extenders
  • Shut down all WiFi from your cable modems
  • Don't install, but place a Ubiquity Access Point in a central part of the home as a test.

    Did the network performance improve everywhere and is working how you want it? Can you wire it in that location? Paying an electrician a $100 might be great if needed. The install will be for a single CAT5e or CAT6 cable. The power for the AP is sent from what is called a power injector that comes with the AP through the network cable. This is how I did it in my home.

    If it did not work well, and assuming you live in a 2 story ranch style/wide house, I would do the following:

  • Install the Ubiquity AP in one corner of the house on the first floor.
  • Run a cable for a second Ubiquity to the second floor, opposite side.
  • Run the Ubiquity controller on your PC. This will allow you to use the same SSID (WiFi network ID) for both APs. As you roam throughout the house your devices will seamlessly jump from one AP to the other without changing networks. This is what large offices that are well setup do. And Ubiquity allows a homeowner to do the same for a lot less $$$.

    Good luck!
u/michrech · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I would not suggest using a bunch of consumer routers for such a situation. Instead, use some dedicated hardware. Depending on how technical you are, you might be better off hiring this work out, but if I were in your shoes, I'd be looking at either a gaggle of Ubiquiti's UAP-AC-Lite WAPs, their UAP-AC-IW, or a combination, depending on where they'd need to be installed.

They are controlled via Ubiquiti's free UniFi Controller software, which can be run via their Cloud Key, on a RasPi 2 or 3, or a Windows / Linux / OSX system. You can also configure basic settings through the iOS or Android apps if you don't wish to use their Controller software. With the UniFi Controller software, all settings for all access points are in one UI. You can easily add / remove WAPs as needed.

They are PoE powered, so you don't have to have power run to whichever locations you decide to install them (a limitation you will have with a bunch of consumer routers), and they come with the PoE injector needed. You can also power them from a PoE switch, but be aware that the UAP-AC-Lite doesn't use 802.1at/af PoE specs -- it uses a 24v passive PoE, and there aren't many switches (that I'm aware of) that support it. If you go this route, you might look at the UAP-AC-Pro, which won't have this issue, but is a bit more expensive. :)

You're building a new house, with a brand new network -- don't cheap out on this part, as it'll only bring you misery in the end (especially if you have a WAF to deal with). :D

u/SometimesIDoThings · 4 pointsr/PleX

That would be better for sure, add one of these and you'll be good to go. Or save some money and get the lite version.

And then to really get a nice SOHO network going add an Edgerouter to replace that C7

u/zer0fks · 4 pointsr/sysadmin

As /u/nonades mentioned, /r/homelab is a good place to ask as well.

My setup:

u/cnliberal · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Everyone is telling you to get a gigabit switch and put all your routers into AP mode. They're forgetting one important thing. You still need a router/firewall on your incoming connection. I recommend the following:

  1. pfSense firewall/router. You have many options when it comes to pfSense. You can build a device out of an older computer. The requirements are an x64 processor that has AES-NI (just Google your CPU brand, model and AES-NI. You must have that for future versions of pfSense. Also, it'd be best to have an Intel NIC. Not RealTek or Broadcom. Intel is well supported in pfSense. Or, you could buy a new device. You could buy a new computer and build it yourself or you could buy directly from Netgate. If you don't have anyone that's good with computers you should buy from Netgate (and even if you do have someone who's "good with computers"). Try this model: https://store.netgate.com/SG-3100.aspx


  2. Gigabit managed switch. The reason I say managed is that you never know if you'll need to create VLANs for a guest network. You can get a nice switch from eBay. Or if you get a specific Netgate device (SG-3100) it has a switch built in. If you get support on the device (which is extra, but I recommend it) you'll get assistance setting up the appliance with guest VLAN. If you just want a cheaper pfSense device you will still need a switch. Dell, HP or (my preference) Cisco. PoE is nice, but not needed.

  3. Access points. There's no other way to say this. You guys are using the wrong hardware. You should be using prosumer/enterprise level equipment. What's nice is that you don't have to spend enterprise level prices to get this equipment. I'd recommend Ubiquiti AP AC Pro access points:

    https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512

    When you purchase individual APs from that link above, the PoE injector comes with it. The 5 pack does not have injectors so you'd need to buy those separately. Now depending on the size of each floor, you might need more than one AP one the floor. In WiFi, you never want to max out the transmit power. This seems like an odd thing to say. But think about it, if you're in a lecture hall, you can hear the professor easily because he's using a mic and speakers. However, if you have a question you have to speak very loudly (since you sit at the back of the room). It's possible you can't speak loudly enough for him to hear you. This is the same for wireless devices. Just because you blast your AP, doesn't mean that long distance devices have the power to talk back. This wastes your battery. This is the reason for multiple APs.

    This isn't really that bad, price wise. These devices will allow the frat to have good signal strength throughout the house. If you have more questions or would like assistance with the config, I'd be happy to help.

u/insdog · 4 pointsr/beermoney

Get this and this and you'll never have a problem ever again

u/bonoboho · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

a lot of /u/mz-s s information is incorrect.

first, 5e will do gigabit all day, every day. though price isnt a significant factor between 6a and 5e, 5e is going to be less expensive and easier to terminate. 6a is primarily used for 10GigE in datacenters, and you are unlikely to see any benefit from it in your home.

second, to set up multiple devices you need one run for gigabit (over 5e) to all of them. set up a cheap gigabit switch that /u/arizonalad suggests (should be <40$, ex: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-SG108-1000Mbps-Desktop-Gigabit/dp/B00A121WN6/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1450427438&sr=1-4&keywords=gigabit+switch) in your media center and you can provide data to basically as many devices as youd like.

none of the devices you mentioned require anything more than gigabit (most of them would be perfectly happy with 100mbit).

one of OPs points is right - dont run only what you need. run at least one more, with an accompanying string if possible. youre not likely to need it, but youd rather have it than not.

u/rowdyllama · 4 pointsr/homelab

This switch:

TP-Link 8 Port Gigabit Ethernet Network Switch | Ethernet Splitter | Sturdy Metal w/ Shielded Ports | Plug-and-Play | Traffic Optimization | Unmanaged (TL-SG108) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A121WN6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_05sRDbSE5KCBN

u/clocks212 · 4 pointsr/GoogleWiFi

Please just buy one of these for $18 and avoid the hassle

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A121WN6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My system is

Modem -> Google Wifi -> switch - > (multiple computers/tv/game systems) -> switch -> (more computers) -> Google Wifi puck #2

And this works great

u/AntecWidow · 4 pointsr/buildapc

Try one of these as you will get a faster and more stable connection

u/buddybd · 4 pointsr/GlobalOffensive

I used to use QoS using Tomato firmware on an ASUS RT N-16. It made things better but it wasn't even close to perfect.

I got myself a pair of Powerline adapters and connected it directly to the router. I highly recommend you do the same. I used this setup after I moved and didn't set up QoS.

I use this: https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474796121&sr=8-1&keywords=powerline+adapters

The cheaper one needed to be restarted once/twice a day. This one I never had to.

u/VortexMagus · 4 pointsr/Competitiveoverwatch

If you're having issues with ping and bandwidth from wireless, try powerline adapters. They run data through your wiring by slightly altering the frequency the electricity is going through. They're fast, fairly reliable (not perfect, but FAR better than wireless), and resolved all of my ping and bandwidth issues, allowing me to play several rooms away from the ethernet adapter without significant ping difference or internet speed issues.

Also helped my parents resolve the problem of poor wireless reception on the bottom floor of their house (their wireless router is on the third floor).

u/dahooddawg · 4 pointsr/PS4

So I sent my ps4 in and they sent me a new one and the problem still existed, I ended up getting power line adapters(http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA4010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393865305&sr=8-1&keywords=powerline+adapter) to make my ps4 have a wired connection using my powerlines, and now it's super fast. 18-19 mbps when my connections is 20mbps.

u/srbman · 4 pointsr/PS4

Unless you get a Slim or Pro, your best option is an Ethernet Wall plug adapter (something like this). It would help you get a wired connection without moving the router or PS4.

u/LurkerRex · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace

This is the exact one I use. It does its job. There are also powerline adapters that are supposedly pretty great. I don't have a set up that would work with them, but I've seen them recommended plenty of times.

u/YaztromoX · 4 pointsr/PS4

Two options:

  1. Get a set of Powerline Ethernet Adaptors. These allow you to run ethernet through the existing power lines in your home (without impacting their ability to deliver power), or
  2. Get an external WiFi ethernet adaptor. This will plug into your PS4s ethernet jack, and will then connect to your WiFi router. A decent such adaptor is likely going to have better WiFi than is built into the PS4 (and you may be able to find one that has a better antenna as well).

    HTH!
u/bobbypotluck · 4 pointsr/blackfriday

Amazon price matched this

u/mayutte · 4 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

$179.99 on Amazon.ca

NETGEAR Nighthawk AC1900 Smart WiFi Router (R7000) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00F0DD0I6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_h8T.Ab0ABW4SS

u/HostoftheHungarians · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

This ASUS is right in your price range, and has all the great QOS and scheduling tools you've heard about. But if you're already paying for a premium router, please go for the AC-876. I can easily get 4 floors and 400 ft of range out of it with 2.4 GHz N band 300 Mbps coverage, and at least 200 ft of 5 GHz at least 1200 Mpbs AC band (my AC devices can only do 1.2 Gbps AC, but it's rated higher). This is a future proofing router than you should easily get 5+ years of use out of. You can also probably find a better price through another vendor, this is just the quickest link I found. I've seen them for closer to $200, but never sub.

u/fly3rs18 · 4 pointsr/PS4

Just search for the best AC routers. I am not familiar with OpenNAT or why you need it, but aside from that a typical AC router would get the job done for all of the thing you want to do. Your actual internet service may hold you back, but the router shouldn't.

As for the wireless range, try to run an ethernet cable to get the router closer to the middle of your house. That will be far cheaper than getting a more powerful router.

something like this will be more than enough to get the job done. You could definitely spend less if you wanted though.

u/bericp1 · 4 pointsr/Chromecast

Edit: Turns out Chromecast does require not just a wifi connection to communicate with devices on the network, but also an internet connection in order to run the "apps" that handle the steaming.

---

Back when I was in living in my university's dorms and my roommates and I wanted to use Chromecast, we bought this TP-Link travel router ($25) to just create your own quick private wi-fi network.

If you buy that little guy (eligible for Prime), you can probably set him up at home and connect your Chromecast to it before you leave. Then you should just be able to plug them both in at the cabin, they'll reconnect to each other, and after connecting whatever device you're streaming from to the wifi network, you might be able to cast your movies. Of course, none of the connected devices will have an internet connection which may be required for certain apps/services to cast even if the content is stored offline but I can't tell you for sure which ones, if any.

Or, you can go the safest route (dare I call it "old-fashioned") and just get an HDMI adapter for your tablet. Let me know what tablet you have and I can find one that should work.

u/SithLordThalix · 4 pointsr/Ubiquiti

Likely your ISP restricts you to one DHCP IP address, if you successfully connect a unifi straight into a modem you will pull public IP addresses for all your connected devices, from my work with Unifi AP's you need to place them after a router. Your setup needs to go modem>router>unifi

Without a router there is not NAT, also there is no firewall to secure the network either. I would couple it with a ER-X, cheap and powerful UBNT router. Use the built in setup wizard and you're done.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeRouter-Advanced-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00YFJT29C

u/thisisnttheusername · 4 pointsr/livesound

I had a spare Apple router laying around. Haven't had issues at 30-40ft or so. WiFi is a tricky business, because no matter where you go, the environment will always be different for WiFi channels.

A lot of places are broadcasting on 2.4g or 5g. So having a router/ap that does both is probably your best bet for flexibility.

If you're wanting something simple and cheap, just look at some basic home routers like Linksys (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014MIBLSA/ref=twister_B07FTFK622?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1).

If you are willing to do a bit more pre-setup (one-time) and have a greater throw for your WiFi, I would suggest an ubiquiti edgerouter and Ubiquiti long range access point (https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeRouter-Advanced-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00YFJT29C)
(https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Long-Range/dp/B015PRCBBI).
That'll get you DHCP and a longer distance than most retail routers.

If you need any more suggestions or have questions, let me know. I'm a certified network engineer.

Edit: the reason I like ubiquiti is because it scans the current environment for wifi channel conflicts and makes the appropriate adjustments.

u/DarkSyzygy · 4 pointsr/homeautomation

I've seen two people suggest ubiquiti, and I would also as well. Thought some links might help you get an idea of what to look for. Usual disclaimers that I'm not suggesting that you get the specific equipment here, or even that this is the best setup I could've gotten. Do you're own research etc.

In my home setup I have:

u/Reygle · 4 pointsr/techsupport

Simple. What you want is something like a 5-port Switch.

example

Edit: accidentally linked a 10/100Mb switch first time. You'll want Gigabit.

u/TheOtherSide5840 · 4 pointsr/computers

You need to purchase a small ethernet switch like this:

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-GS105NA-Ethernet-Replacement-Unmanaged/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1496096921&sr=1-6&keywords=ethernet+switch

Plug all the cables (Roku, PC, connection to router) into the switch and you will be good to go.

u/havaloc · 4 pointsr/eero

I have a Netgear GS105 and it works fine. Amazon

u/wildcarde815 · 4 pointsr/Drexel

Get yourself a little switch like this. At least when I was there, they didn't care if you had a switch / hub inplace, they just got angry with routers. 1gpbs may be overkill if drexel isn't offering 1gb to the room, you can save 10 bucks or so with the 10/100 switch.

u/ixforres · 4 pointsr/AskUK

If you're over 3 floors you won't be able to do it wirelessly with a single AP.

What you can do is run a cable to the first floor, put a switch or access point with a switch integrated there, run a cable from that to the second floor, switch there, same again on the third floor. Switches aren't mind-blowingly expensive for okayish ones.

If I were you I'd at the very least run a cable to the second floor and put a second access point in. Something like this. I'd throw some switches in - if you want absolute cheap as chips and aren't doing >100Mbps, this will do fine.

Wires are the right way to do things. If you can avoid wireless, do so. Wireless is for phones and other highly mobile devices. Laptops at desks, desktops, consoles etc should all be connected by wires.

u/Trokeasaur · 4 pointsr/gadgets

I would highly recommend the Asus wireless routers. Great featureset, you can set up file sharing, guest networks, printer sharing. Super easy to do a basic set up as well.

If you want the latest and greatest in terms of the new wireless standards, this one is the way to go.

Slightly older but still will work for absolutely everything you would want to do would be this one here.

u/YouAreSalty · 4 pointsr/xboxone

I highly recommend a router that supports third party firmware based on open source Linux/WRT routers. Why?

Because no matter how good your hardware is, if the software sucks it will perform badly under pressure. Average hardware with great software will yield great results. Most software made by the router companies suck, because it isn't tested properly and is often just slightly tailored for each model. They dont' put a lot of effort into it, because that is not what a consumer sees when they buy one (unless you are business user buying business class routers).

For a $100, I recommend this slightly older router that I use myself that comes with WRT software directly from the manufacturer (less setup and easier for you!):

http://www.amazon.com/RT-N66U-Dual-Band-Wireless-N900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B006QB1RPY/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1459468524&sr=1-5





u/Jaymesned · 4 pointsr/cordcutters

4 people streaming regularly on a $40 router is probably asking for reboots and slowdowns. I don't own any of the routers on this review site, but you might want to look that over. Their pick for best cheap router is the TP-LINK TL-WDR3600

You have to think of routers like little computers that literally route network signals to each of your devices within your home. Just like a computer, the cheaper routers have slower processors and less RAM, which can slow things down pretty quickly when multiple people are doing bandwidth-intensive things like streaming.

I'd seriously consider upping your budget if you want a smooth streaming experience in your house.

Personally, I have a ASUS RT-N66U and it's an amazing router, and I've never had a single issue with it, but it's well above your price range.

u/brokemember · 4 pointsr/perktv

I personally find the ASUS RT-N66U to be an excellent router.

You can sometimes find it for as low as 100-105.

The most important question is how much stress do you actually need to put on the router.

As in:

How many devices?

Are they primarily using 2.4 or 5GHz

Are they b/g/n or ac (ac is highly unlikely since its so new). This router does not support ac...though i wouldn't be too concerned with that for at least another 2 years or so.

In all honesty most routers under $40-50 can handle most Perk needs — as well as your other household devices.

Though I always say, its better to spend some more now...than later.

u/azgoodaz · 4 pointsr/xboxone

You would like to get:

  1. Access Point
  2. Adapter

    This will give coverage to your whole house. It will run you about ~ $60 dollars.
u/thilehoffer · 4 pointsr/firstworldproblems

I use a TP-link poweline adapter. It works great for streaming and gaming. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AWRUICG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415471292&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

u/theadventuringpanda · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace

this

Is the most amazing thing I've bought. I didn't think it'd work well but I'm getting my max upload and download speeds without any connection issues like I do with wifi. (Router is downstairs I'm upstairs) also bought mine at Frys.

u/winterforge · 4 pointsr/PS4

I use this on my PS4 and it more than doubled my speed from when I was trying WiFi. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AWRUICG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421532993&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

Very easy to install, then you choose wired connection instead of wireless. Best thing I've done for my PS4. I get the same speeds now as if I was plugged directly into the modem.

u/Docmcfluhry · 4 pointsr/buildapc

It's essentially two adapters. You plug an ethernet cord from your router into one, and then plug that into your wall outlet.

You plug the other into a wall outlet near your PC, and run an ethernet cable from that, to your PC.

Faster than Wifi, and runs on magic or some shit. Amazon has one on sale right now:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AWRUICG/ref=s9_top_hd_bw_g147_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-2&pf_rd_r=01ZZVYCQNKNH6THBBH1Z&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=77b9e727-3844-3e7b-b75e-2a06ec7f4c9a%2F4d0e19de-8b0d-34bb-b36d-0788592b632d&pf_rd_i=1194444

u/killerhurtalot · 4 pointsr/xboxone

There's no wifi adapters that'll work with Xbox one since there's no drivers for it...

And instead of running a 60 feet wire, why not just get a powerline like this?

It'll just run the signal through the copper power lines in your house and come out as a ethernet connection on the other adapter to plug into your console.

u/big_phat · 4 pointsr/SSBM

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA2010KIT/dp/B00AWRUIY4

I use this one and it’s pretty good. I only get 20 mbps up/down with it when I usually get 100 mbps up/down wired directly to my router but ping is pretty consistently good

u/Chazay · 4 pointsr/buildapc

I recommend getting this over the Wireless Adapter.

u/crazyk4952 · 4 pointsr/Boise

If you think the problem is with your wifi, try picking up a pair of power line adapters. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AWRUIY4/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1418561737&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

For $20, they let you run Ethernet over your power lines. I use several in my old home in the North End and they work great for me.

u/cantseetheocean · 4 pointsr/Calgary

Buy this:

https://www.amazon.ca/NETGEAR-AC1900-Nighthawk-Smart-Router/dp/B00F0DD0I6?th=1
And put the crappy hitron modem in bridge mode.

u/boynet2 · 4 pointsr/WindowsMR
u/scex · 4 pointsr/linux_gaming

>Do I need to purchase a 4.0 or better adapter

Yes, it won't work with 3.0 adapters.

There's the Plugable BT 4.0 adapter that has official Linux support, although I haven't tested it yet on Linux.

EDIT: Can confirm the Plugable adapter works in Linux with the bluetooth Xbox one controlller.

u/piranhas_really · 4 pointsr/PS4

My solution to the PS4's lackluster wireless card is one of these and about 100ft of Cat6 cable.

u/Tesla56 · 4 pointsr/homelab

Thanks! It's a TP-Link TL-SG108 unmamaged 8 port gigabit switch ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-LINK-TL-SG1024D-24-Port-Rackmount-Unmanaged/dp/B00A121WN6/ ) it's a fairly good cheap gigabit switch. I have a few unmanaged gigabit switches from different companies and I've found them to all be fairly similar I usually just go for whatever recognisable brand is the cheapest on Amazon at the time

u/ParallelProcess · 4 pointsr/apple

This one is very small and says in the title that it works with Mac OS.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/

u/jcs · 4 pointsr/openbsd

Yeah, one of these (supported by urtwn) in one of these. Not ideal, but hopefully temporary.

u/millertv79 · 4 pointsr/RetroPie

The NES Pi Cart was my first project too. I enjoyed the process immensely. Before I started I couldn't solder and had no clue what 'sudo' meant. Now I've built three retro systems, also since December, two with LED's, with zero prior Linux knowledge. I can suggest this guide which will give you a completed system in a few hours.

https://howchoo.com/g/mti0oge5nzk/pi-cart-a-raspberry-pi-retro-gaming-rig-in-an-nes-cartridge?utm_source=facebook&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=picart

If you want plug n play then Buy a NES classic. If you wanna learn some new skills keep on the course man. Had to try some different wifi dongles myself. This one works out of the box with retro Pie and Pi Zero. sNES30 controllers never worked for me. Return and try wired maybe. PS4 controller works flawlessly for me.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_ECL4xI3dTpHx7

u/InconsiderateBastard · 4 pointsr/linuxhardware

I use this with Ubuntu GNOME daily. No config or software installation was necessary.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-oU8yb19MESCZ

u/loginname · 4 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Edimax EW-7811Un on Amazon

Works right out the box.

u/AtomicMayonez · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace

^^^pcie*
There are a few options.

  1. Use a USB card. They're cheap, universal, and (usually) highly reliable. Just be careful about speed, I once bought an edimax usb card and it was great, but then bought a cheap kootek one and it was actually only capable of around 1mbps
  2. You can buy a powerline adapter. These let you use your existing power lines as ethernet cables, meaning essentially wherever there's an outlet, you can connect a device to ethernet.
  3. Just run a really, really, long ethernet cable and staple it to the baseboards. the least likely choice, but i personally don't mind it so i figured i'd throw it in there.
    Keep in mind that you're always gonna get faster speeds with a cable as opposed to wireless.
    Merry Christmas, by the way
u/Exfiltrate · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

The Edgerouter Lite is quite a popular choice capable of handling Gigabit speeds.

If you don't have wireless APs, also grab one or two of the AP-AC Lites.

u/lilotimz · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Use a WiFi Scanner app to find the best 2.4 / 5 ghz channels in your apartment. For 2.4 it's channels 1/6/11 @ 20 MHz. For 5 GHz basically just to find the least congested space.

If both 2.4 and 5 is heavily congested then maybe something like an Ubiquiti AC Lite running in DFS 5 GHz frequencies may help out a lot.

u/FunctionalBlackbird · 4 pointsr/CanadianBroadband

You're better off buying your own router and access point (preferably two discrete devices). The combo devices (modem/router/AP) provided by ISPs are typically disposable low-quality junk that they can afford to buy by the hundreds of thousands, and toss in the trash when they break.

From a security standpoint, it is "best practice" to have your own router and relegate the ISP modem/router to "bridge mode" (where it is acting as only a modem, with the firewall functions disabled). The HH3000 is Bell's device, managed by Bell. By plugging things into it, Bell gets to see what your home LAN consists of. With everything connected to your own router/firewall device, Bell doesn't get to see all of the other devices that live in your home LAN.

Put your router somewhere where it's easily accessible (for inspection of lights, troubleshooting, resets, etc). Put the access point in a central location in the household, and run a cable to it. If coverage is inadequate, considering buying a second AP and placing it in the dead/weak signal zone.

Run cables to as many non-mobile devices as possible; TVs, streaming media boxes, game consoles, etc. Save your wifi bands for mobile devices that actually need wifi (ie. laptops, tablets, phones), and put them on the 5GHz (not 2.4GHz) band.

A pair of dedicated appliances like the Ubiquiti EdgeRouter Lite and AP AC Lite will give you more flexibility and better coverage than any ISP combo device.

u/Judman13 · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Getting this out of the way. USG and UAP-AC Lite. $190 from Amazon.

Or Edgerouter X and UAP-AC Lite. $130 from Amazon (rock solid reliability, but less user friendly)

You can upgrade to UAP-AC Pro is you have devices that can use its spec's. $169 for the AP from Amazon.

u/bbsittrr · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Uquiti lites: about $80

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY

AC Pros: $95 each:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Long-Range/dp/B015PRCBBI?ref_=ast_bbp_dp

Six dudes:

EAP 225 about $130, $22 bucks each

AC Lite: $160, $27 bucks each (and you guys get free amazon prime still I think?)

AC Pro: $190, $32 each. Get some cat6 patch cables from Monoprice (or via amazon, with free shipping). You're good to go.

$22 to $32 bucks each: I'd skip a beer day, and pony up for the full AC pros.

u/CyberCam · 3 pointsr/homelab

Wow, you want to do all that with a Celeron Quad-core? If that's all I had I would throw CentOS 7 Minimal Server on it...
https://www.howtoforge.com/tutorial/centos-7-minimal-server/

For easy GUI administration use
Webmin: https://lintut.com/how-to-install-webmin-on-centos-7/

For TM Backups use NFS or SMB: https://www.unixmen.com/setting-nfs-server-client-centos-7/ https://lintut.com/easy-samba-installation-on-rhel-centos-7/

To enable NFS on Mac: http://www.serverlab.ca/tutorials/osx/administration-osx/how-to-connect-mac-os-x-to-nfs-shares/

For DLNA use Plex Media Server (enable DLNA in settings): http://brettspence.com/2014/11/17/installing-plex-media-server-on-centos-7/

For Web app hosting etc. use Apache or Nginx with MYSQL & PHP: https://www.howtoforge.com/tutorial/centos-lamp-server-apache-mysql-php/
https://www.digitalocean.com/community/tutorials/how-to-install-linux-nginx-mysql-php-lemp-stack-on-centos-7

Use Webmin to administer your virtualhosts using the Apache module or use this Nginx module: https://github.com/vixh/nginx-webmin

For NextCloud use this script https://github.com/PietsHost/Nextcloud-Installation-Script

For DIY IoT edge device/gateway, there's no better for the money than EdgeRouter X + UniFi AC AP (Lite/LR): https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-ER-X-Networks-Router/dp/B0144R449W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1494305813&sr=8-2&keywords=edgerouter+x

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494305859&sr=8-1&keywords=ubiquiti+ap+ac+lite

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UAP-AC-LR-Networks-Enterprise-System/dp/B015PRCBBI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494305879&sr=8-1&keywords=ubiquiti+ap+ac+lr

For VPN use OpenVPN (use this script): https://github.com/Angristan/OpenVPN-install
NOTE: With this script it remove passwords by default, just open the script up in a text editor and remove the "nopass" text (4 times) and your good to go! It's very easy to install and add/remove users.

Again, this is a lot for a small little machine to do, but this is how I would do it with the limited hardware you have.

Cheers!

u/Duplo_Apocalypse · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Wire everything you can. Then look at getting the often recommended Ubiquiti AP AC Lite and either use R7000 or ISP provided modem to handle the routing (disabling the wifi in either case) or look at getting a matching Ubiquiti Security Gateway (USG). The bonus is the Ubiquiti gear supports Dynamic Frequency Selection which could help eliminate interference from your neighbours on the 5ghz spectrum.

u/War_Dave · 3 pointsr/wifi

Hardware with Ethernet where you can and get a decent wifi ap for stuff you cant. I picked up one of these awhile back for my phone/tablet and stuff that has no ethernet cable and no issues from it. https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1549167421&sr=8-5&keywords=ubiquiti+wireless+access+point

But in a gaming machine ethernet no way around it, don't wifi on a device over ethernet because its "easy" it will only cost you a LOT more time in the long run vs running that cat5 cable or even MOCA adapters.

u/grovertheclover · 3 pointsr/cordcutters
u/Fuzzybunnyofdoom · 3 pointsr/fortinet

The AP's don't need the controller to function, just get provisioned. You can run the software on your PC to setup the AP then never run the software again once its setup.

I run one of the UAP-AC-Lite AP's behind my 60E.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY

u/_Beet · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Agree with u/RedSyringe, the powerline adaptors will be the bottleneck. If you want the best setup for gaming replace the powerline adaptors with cable if possible.

Switches:
TPLink
Netgear

u/sc302 · 3 pointsr/sysadmin

honestly you have a 5506 and you don't have a switch to attach to it? What is an unmanaged switch going to cost you that would have the same amount of ports that the 5506 is going to provide you, $25? What is 25 bux when you have already invested 400 or so into a firewall, you time researching and configuring will be worth more than that $25 switch. can't do etherchannel unless you have a switch/device on the other end that also supports etherchannel/lacp.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged-TL-SG108/dp/B00A121WN6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1496271784&sr=8-3&keywords=10+port+switch

u/cosmicosmo4 · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Don't worry about the number of ports on the router. You should get a switch to provide the ethernet ports that you need. A perfectly good 8-port gigabit switch is like $20. example

For the router and APs, in your budget, you could get a Unifi security gateway ($140) and 2 Unifi UAP-AC-Lites ($70 each). That would be a super capable and very easy to manage set up. It's possible to go cheaper on the router, like using a EdgeRouter-X ($60) instead of the USG, which is perfectly capable for home use, but not as smooth to configure as the Unifi line.

u/wolffstarr · 3 pointsr/homelab

This is going to be very dependent on how deep into the weeds you want to be getting with your setup. We've got one key, being "needs to do gigabit internet". Another is you seem to be looking for gigabit/AC wireless. You also mention needing an AP on the far side of the house.

Do you expect that the router will have wifi capabilities on it's own? Some of the options that I know will handle gigabit throughput don't have built-in wireless.

The "easy" answer - meaning, if you just want good stuff that works well enough and don't want to learn all there is to know about networking before you get your LAN running - is to go with Ubiquiti gear. An EdgeRouter Lite will do gigabit for your router (as long as you don't get fancy, like trying to do QoS/rate shaping) for about $90.

You would then need at least one AP to handle the wireless, for which a UAP-AC-Lite would probably work okay - that's about $80.

For getting the ball rolling, just about any 8 port "dumb" switch would do, but you can get a TP-Link TL-SG108 gigabit switch for $30 on Amazon right now. You'd almost certainly want to replace that eventually, but it won't be useless and it's a good price.

Eventually you could look at getting a 16 port Ubiquiti switch and another AP or two if you have a large area to cover, and there's options for unified configuration setups I believe.

If you really want to get snazzy, spring for the Unifi Security Gateway which is the same hardware as the EdgeRouter Lite, but works with the Unifi controller software. Get that, as many APs as you need, and a Unifi switch and you can (eventually) run a VM for your Unifi controller to configure all of it through one, locally controlled web page.

u/Curtofthehorde · 3 pointsr/Langamers

A switch and some cheap color coded cables! Made network setup a breeze.

Folding tables/chairs make setup and breakdown easy. Set up an extra for snacks/drinks.

Put a small cheap waste basket at each table to keep tables clean and clear.

Velcro Strips keep cables tidy at the lan or the battlestation as well as keeping them from tangling in your bag.

u/ToughConversation · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

A switch is basically a port splitter. A decent dumb switch can be had for between $10-30 for 5 port options (depending on what you're looking for and if you get a good deal) and 15-35 for an 8 port version.


8 ports for 22 if you don't want to search. It won't do PoE but you might not need that.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Ethernet-Optimization-Unmanaged-TL-SG108/dp/B00A121WN6/


At a high level, plug any free port on the ERX into the switch and the switch will then "give" the ERX more ports - though two devices, both attached to the switch don't necessarily need to push (most of their) data to the router since there'd be a direct path.

u/Zahne1977 · 3 pointsr/SmartThings

Nope! They use Zigbee. You can find one of the threads with handlers and pairing instructions here. Although poke around a bit to make sure it's the most current, it's been a while since I loaded my handlers.

In several months I haven't seen any of my Xiaomi door sensors or motion detectors drop. I have seen 1 of my 2 Magic Cube's drop, however I think that may have been during a SmartThings outage and/or my doing.

If you get them connected and you do experience dropping, there's a good chance you may need to extend your Zigbee network with a repeater. The Iris Smart Plug works really well.

Also, you can add more LAN ports to your Google WiFi. Just purchase a 10/100/1000 Gigabit Switch and connect any port to any of the LAN ports on your Google WiFi. Move your Hue, ST or Energenie over to the switch and you'll have extra space.

Here is an example of a small cheap switch that would work well.

u/lyoko37 · 3 pointsr/eero

I'd recommend getting an unmanaged switch because you still want the eero to be the brains.

This one works great:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A121WN6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/ChunkyThePotato · 3 pointsr/xboxone

Either a long cable, or a powerline adapter.

u/sina3001 · 3 pointsr/DIY

A PowerLine device, like the other guy suggested is perfect for avoiding running Ethernet. I use them around the house for running network to my TV, Xbox, and media player. You can even connect a network switch on the receiving end to connect multiple devices.

It basically uses the power lines in your home/apartment as an Ethernet connection. Generally much faster than Wi-Fi, and the greatest advantage is signal stability. You get a solid and consistently low ping, which you can't always get from wireless. Also, all data that is sent between adapters is encrypted, and it takes about 30 seconds to set up.

The previous recommendation is a much older device that is really slow and overpriced.

Get this and you'll be set!

TP-LINK TL-PA4010KIT AV500 Nano Powerline Adapter Starter Kit, up to 500Mbps by TP-LINK:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWRUICG/

Edit: added second paragraph for more details.

u/AzuraDM · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Absolutely worth it. I use this one for my rig, which gives me faster speeds than WiFi and was a breeze to setup. I've had it for a couple years now and will probably stick with powerline adapters moving forward.

u/AWildRedditorApeared · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Don't get that SSD. it has known performance issues.

Here's a 250 GB Evo 840 (also known issues but not as bad as kingston) for $65. Link

Also definently go i5 if you can. Do you need wifi in your motherboard? WIll a powerline adapter work for you?


>Being that this is my first PC I'm still learning about all the connections on the MOBO. What are some gotchas I should be looking out for?

Make sure the PSU has an 8 pin connector - your graphics card will require it. They usually have a 6+2 pin or an 8 pin. Edit!! - looks like it has a 6+2 pin, you're good OP.

Also be advised - that is a non-modular PSU (which is fine) but your case is a mini-ITX. I have had that case in the past. Cable management is challenging but not impossible, especially if you do nothing with the 5.25" bay drive. But if you load it up to capacity, it's gonna be a tight fit.

u/darkcat12 · 3 pointsr/Columbus

Are you using WiFi to stream or are you hard wired?

My wife and I had the same issue with ours cutting out and it was because our router was in a different room compared to the TV. I installed one of these and we haven’t had issues with quality or it cutting in and out.

u/yourenzyme · 3 pointsr/vita

Use power to Ethernet adaptors. They are great (or they won't work at all, it all depends on how your home is wired up).

Something like this

u/Trazac · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You could always use Powerline adapters instead. Overall, though, you don't need fast internet to be competitive, you do need low ping. Wifi might bring up your ping somewhat, but probably not that big of a deal.

u/Jeremydaniels247 · 3 pointsr/pchelp

Use a powerline Ethernet adapter, then. Those things rock and come in a ton of different varieties. They are on the expensive side(for a really good one), but are way cheaper/easier than running cat 5 through the walls.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LcAJDbAW9PJ7W

Amazon link for a basic 600mbs version.

u/kscannon · 3 pointsr/Borderlands

Like u/TheDavld said, most likely you are playing at 1080p unless you have the ps4 pro. [email protected] fps or [email protected] Best case framrates, I would go for [email protected] fps every time. Given that you might not care for having 60fps vs 30fps. There is a solution for better network connectivity and the 4k screen. I have a set of these. Faster and better connection than WiFi but not as good as Ethernet. Good middle ground. I have these as a quick hookup around the house that I do not plan to make permanent/run Cat6 too.

u/bdfull3r · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Run a really long cable. At my in laws house they feed ethernet through the air return registers.
Unless we are talking 100 feet or more then you wouldn't see any noticeable signal degradation.

You could also try a powerline adapter. I have one for my rig and haven't had issues though milage can vary with them.

u/sprtdfire · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Hi, I'm a founder of Parsec. You should use this dongle. It works really well. https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY. Also, it's not about the bandwidth of 2.4 vs 5. It's about the interference. 5ghz is much better for that reason.

u/Temere · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Will a cheap wifi adapter like this
https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY
work effectively?

u/FirestarterMethod · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-Wireless-Adapter-Wizard/dp/B003MTTJOY

Reccommended by multiple users in the community, I got it and it works perfectly, with no setup.

u/BlamelessVestalsLot · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I use the (TP-LINK TL-WN881ND)[www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0079XWMEI] and the (Edimax EW-7811Un)[www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY]. I never had any problem with them

u/JustAnotherCommunist · 3 pointsr/tails

This one works without needing to install drivers to Tails, make sure to get the N150-Nano.

Never figured out how to make my Asus wifi stick work with Tails. Cheap one's far easier.

u/dumb_ants · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Aside from the intellectual challenge, have you considered buying a wifi adapter off Amazon for $10-15 that already has support in the raspbian kernel?

16 years ago we recompiled our kernels and we liked it by golly, but if there's no need to then please consider saving yourself the headache!

Edit: $8, prime shipping: This is the one I use with my pi - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY - worked first time, no driver issues at all. I would recommend using the wifi setup tools (to connect to your access point) in the graphical windowed environment rather than manually through config file edits. Either way there are lots of tutorials out there.

u/KatsumeBlisk · 3 pointsr/archlinux

I have this one. I don't use it that often because it's mainly for my Raspberry Pi, but it works perfectly on both Windows and Linux in my experience with no drivers to install.

u/ekno · 3 pointsr/technology

You might need them to get you a new modem. Sometimes they give you old hardware if you didn't opt for a 30mbps+ package that uses a newer modem. My mom has a similar problem right now, she had 20mbps upgraded to 30mbps and they never upgraded her to a docsis 3 modem. Also I think you can get the correct modem for about $60 at Amazon and save on the modem subscription fee until Google Fibre rolls out for you.

u/antihexe · 3 pointsr/Comcast

Nooooo. The gateways are notoriously bad.

Go buy your own docsys 3 modem.

These are good safe bets:

http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SB6121-SURFboard-DOCSIS/dp/B004XC6GJ0/

http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SurfBoard-SB6141-DOCSIS/dp/B00AJHDZSI/

u/shstmo · 3 pointsr/aggies

Buy your own wireless router + modem on amazon & save on the rental fees. I bought this modem and it works great. Six months renting is the same price as buying your own.

u/Dr_Ben_Dover · 3 pointsr/aggies

When I had their 15 meg service, my DOCSIS 2 modem worked well. They required me to upgrade when i switched to 30 meg service.

Be sure to buy your modem, though, if you plan on using it for longer than 6 months. Here's one like the one I have. The rental fees are a joke when considering the cost of owning outright.

u/notnarb · 3 pointsr/UCSantaBarbara

Get the same kind of modem you would for any cable ISP and buy your modem and router separate (trust me)

List of cable modems on amazon as sorted by popularity

My recommendation for a modem is either a Motorola
6121 or a 5101 Both will easily last you 4 years with the 5101 being cheaper but using older technology that 1) Limits you to ~35mbps actual speed and 2) slightly worse connection quality in some scenarios.

---
This is probably a better question for a tech subreddit since there is probably nothing specific to Cox in IV that should influence what modem or router to buy.

u/TravisLabs · 3 pointsr/Atlanta

A few months ago I got rid of my residential service and replaced it with an Internet only business service and I'm getting a little over 100 Mbps down and 20 Mbps up.

Even if you don't want to do that make sure you have a decent cable modem. The SB6121 is DOCSIS 3. You can check you own signal levels and logs easily. It gives you ammo when calling tech support. If you see T3 and T4 timeouts in your log, a tech should come out and check the cables.

http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SB6121-SURFboard-DOCSIS/dp/B004XC6GJ0

u/SaiyanOfDarkness · 3 pointsr/Comcast

If you wanna save a little extra each month, and have some cash.. get one of these.. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XC6GJ0 ... since u are only around 90mbps it should have no problems keeping your max speed.

All you have to do is give them the MAC ID off the box and tell them you own it, and just have to return the rental box to them and if the rental fee is like mine u should save $10 a month.

u/Afatassninja · 3 pointsr/technology

My isp blew my modem while I was at their offices complaining about their shit tier service. I know this because during the time that I was at their office my buddys were chatting on skype and my internet magically went out at the exact time that I was up there, it stayed out for a week because we didn't know what was wrong and it took them a week to actually show up to tell us we needed a new modem This was only a month old before it just suddenly stopped working. They tried to tell me that it wouldn't handle their 50mbps internet because he had no fucking clue what the hell he was talking about.

u/calderon501 · 3 pointsr/newjersey

FiOS in Middletown. Don't bother with DSL if you can avoid it, Comcast or Cablevision will give you better speeds for the money. If you don't need a home phone, grab one of these modems so you don't have to pay the shitty rental fee.

I had a fantastic experience with Cablevision during my time with them, so if you can get their service go for it.

u/C41n · 3 pointsr/Portland
u/Enlightenment777 · 3 pointsr/Atlanta

$70 Motorola SB6121 http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SB6121-SURFboard-DOCSIS/dp/B004XC6GJ0 (supports up to 170Mbps downstream)

$88 Motorola SB6141 http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SurfBoard-SB6141-DOCSIS/dp/B00AJHDZSI (supports up to 343Mbps downstream)

u/tfcommanderbob · 3 pointsr/cordcutters

I suppose it depends on the service provider, but I've always used Motorola Surfboard modems with my Comcast service. I recently purchased this sb6121, but would probably just recommend saving the money and getting a basic one like this sb5101u.

I purchased the former with the hope of future proofing and maximum performance for gaming, but I doubt it will ever make a serious difference. My gain was 1mb as per www.speedtest.net over the one I had been renting. $7 savings a month, it will be paid off in ~1yr.

u/twistedcain · 3 pointsr/entertainment

$420 - 1 year 30/5 cable Internet

$80 - Cable modem

$90 - 1 year Netflix gift certificate to myself

$100 - 1 year Hulu gift certificate to myself

$70 - Over the air antenna

$180 - Prepaid CallCentric

$46 - Cisco ATA for CallCentric

$986 for one year of high speed Internet, 1 year of Netflix, 1 year of Hulu, all the over the air HD broadcast stations, near unlimited telephone calls, and all the equipment needed to make it run. No monthly payments or bills for one year. Accessible from my smart phone, smart TV, and computer.

u/CivilatWork · 3 pointsr/news

The Motorola SB modems are great! I can confirm they work for both Comcast and TWC. (Parents have comcast and a 6121, I have TWC and have used a 6141 and 6183). Here are a few links to them:

SB6121

SB6141

For routers I use an Asus RT68CU, but I have a lot going on in my apartment. You could get away using any name brand, cheaper one really.

u/BeartronBanana · 3 pointsr/Tucson

Your primary options are Century Link for DSL and Cox or Comcast (depending on location) for Cable. Century Link offers slower speeds at a lower price point. Cox has higher speeds at a slightly higher price point. Both companies offer deals that will get you a discounted service for a while. For example, Cox is offering their Preferred plan for $20 a month for 6 months.

From personal experience and from what others have told me, Century Link can often times be difficult to work with, have unreliable speeds and spotty service. I haven't dealt with Comcast in Tucson yet, but from previous experiences they are alright. Right now I'm using Cox and their service has been very reliable and I don't have any real complaints. One thing I absolutely recommend if you go with Cox is to purchase a DOCSIS 3.0 modem (example). If you use a DOCSIS 2.0 modem chances are you will receive low speeds at most points of the day if you live in more populated areas of Tucson. DOCSIS 3.0 gets around this issue since it is capable of connecting to multiple downstreams instead of just one.

There really isn't a "best" since ISP's in general can be a pain to work with. If you want the best in terms of reliability (personal opinion here), speed and data cap I would pick Cox and pickup a DOCSIS 3.0 modem, just realize you will end up paying a bit more.

u/VoodooIdol · 3 pointsr/hardware

Yes.

  1. Buy DOCSIS 3.0 if your cable company supports it

  2. Buy one with a minimum of a 100Mbps ethernet port - 1Gbps is better.

  3. You will lose connection a lot less frequently with a quality self-purchased modem (as long as the physical cable in your house isn't crap)

  4. I have had phenomenal luck with Motorola Surfboard modems over the past 10 years or so (before that, back in the beginning of DOCSIS 2.0 days, Surfboards were absolute cack).

    This one right here is a beast:

    http://www.amazon.com/Arris-Motorola-SB6121-SURFboard-DOCSIS/dp/B004XC6GJ0
u/darknight7884 · 3 pointsr/VirginiaTech

Yea it looks like there are other responses, but I'll mirror. A Docsis 3.0 modem if you buy one (link below) helps amazingly. I get consistent 25Mbps down and 4 Mbps up. When I had the modem they gave me it was very sporadic. Sometimes there are latency issues, but the speed is always spot on. Also if you are on wireless in Blacksburg, it sucks, radio interference and all from everyones wireless devices in apartment buildings, it kind of goes the way of cell phone signals on game day. Try plugging a ethernet cord straight into your router when its slow and see if that isn't the issue. If it is, there are ways to deal with that, but its always good to figure out if it truly is Comcast or not.

(http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-SB6121-SURFboard-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B004XC6GJ0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1347941339&sr=8-3&keywords=surfboard+6120)

u/Goldentongue · 3 pointsr/AskSF

It's really simple to just order the service online. I recently signed up for 50 mbps at $39.99 a month(I think it's called "Performance Internet"), did a home installation, and my speed tests are all showing me I'm getting about 60 mbps.
You can rent a modem/router through them for $10 a month, but I just bought this modem and this router instead and they started working without any problems right out of the box. Figured after 9 months I'll have saved money compared to renting, plus I get to keep them.

This time around I never even had to make a single phone call to Comcast, where as two years ago when I lived in Alabama I spent 8 hours on the phone with them to get stuff set up. It's hit or miss if you have a problem starting off, but once it's running it's usually very reliable.

u/NancyGracesTesticles · 3 pointsr/raleigh

When ours died, we bought this one http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SurfBoard-SB6121-DOCSIS/dp/B004XC6GJ0.

Setup was a breeze.

u/DBolUSAF · 3 pointsr/techsupport

It could be several things, but if you have a shitty modem and/or a shitty router that could be the issue. I had the same problem when I was using the modem provided by my ISP. I bought my own and I haven't had a problem since.

Here is my modem and router:

Modem

Router

They might not be the best, but I wasn't looking for the best, I was looking for something reliable and affordable. Hope this helps.

u/Ubuntaur · 3 pointsr/cordcutters

I just did the same thing a few months ago; ditched Comcast cable services and kept my Comcast internet. I've rarely had issues with Comcast's internet service so I've been quite happy. I only pay $30 instead of $110! If you haven't purchased your own modem, I highly recommend this one. That way you have no more $7 a month rental fee for a Comcast modem.

u/LHoT10820 · 3 pointsr/splatoon

Just because you aren't noticing lag doesn't mean you aren't lagging from your opponents perspective. Getting set up on LAN is really only polite.

Since your router is in another room, something like this will be helpful. Just pair it with a proper LAN Adapter and you're good to go!

u/waspocracy · 3 pointsr/amazonprime

Question: Are you using WiFi for your PS4?

I noticed with the PS4 that there are some bizarre DNS checks going on. It's not just Amazon that has the problem - it was basically everything. A friend recommended a powerline adapter and I haven't looked back. I liked it so much I setup every major internet device to these.

u/truexchill · 3 pointsr/buildapc

If you have access to the router/modem, get some powerline adapters. They're better than wifi.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=psdc_1194444_t1_B017X8BK5A

u/silvernutter · 3 pointsr/ps2

There are a few things you could do. You could get a wireless bridge to convert the wifi back to an ethernet connection. If your house is relatively new you could attempt powerline networking. This would allow you to send an ethernet signal over your home's power grid to an outlet in your room.

Perhaps there is a way to turn your laptop into a wireless bridge, but I'm not aware of one, especially on Windows. I have heard of people doing such things with a raspberry pi however.

What are you looking to do with an online PS2?

u/EmeraldShark · 3 pointsr/NoStupidQuestions
u/Heratiki · 3 pointsr/vita

Try both. Never hurts to find out but we first need to start where all the magic happens and that is where your PS4 is at.

Guaranteed it's your wifi causing your issues not your connection. Give these a shot if you can convince your parents. They are cheap and reliable and offer superior speeds and latency compared to wireless. TP-LINK TL-PA4010KIT AV500 Nano Powerline Adapter Starter Kit, up to 500Mbps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_yWDoub10VHJNY

Connect one to an outlet (not a power strip) by the router/modem and one to an outlet by the PS4 and the connect the Ethernet cables and you have yourself a wired connection that is only about 5-10ms latency over a standard Ethernet connection. And the bonus is it uses your existing power infrastructure to send the information instead of cables all over the place.

u/zakabog · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

What WIFi Adapter did you buy, and what model phone do you have? If you bought an 802.11b/g/n adapter and your phone and router both have 802.11ac, then you'll notice a huge performance difference.

Also, you might want to look into getting a powerline adapter instead.

u/a1kimreddit · 3 pointsr/PUBGXboxOne

You might want to try a powerline adapter. It basically allows you to send network traffic from one normal power plug to another in your house. I've used one in the past, and it seemed pretty reliable... definitely better than the wifi you're using now, and they're not too expensive (about $40).

Example:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-ethernet-Adapter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B00AWRUICG/

So you'd connect like this:

Router ->

Powerline #1 (which is plugged directly into the wall near your router) ->

Powerline #2 (which is plugged directly into the wall near your xbox) ->

Xbox

u/holmgren · 3 pointsr/xbox360

I had the same problem, then I bought some of these and it has worked awesome. http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA4010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00AWRUICG/

u/_Mr_Goose · 3 pointsr/DIY

As others have said running standard 5e or 6 will work just fine.

I'd like to throw out a couple other options that I haven't seen covered yet.

I've used something like these PowerLine Ethernet adapters at my parent's house and even with older wiring it still worked out very well: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499982359&sr=8-2&keywords=powerline+ethernet

And another option would be to get a wireless system that is built to handle a bit more. Ubiquiti has a great range of wireless access points that are built to handle the load. You would install multiple access points and then turn down the transmission power of the radios. Doing this will help the devices split up and connect to the access point they are closest to. At the same time those devices are rated to handle something like 30 clients.

u/itrippledmyself · 3 pointsr/Comcast

You may get some more range out of an AC router, so that could be a small bonus.

You might also check on power line ethernet adapters, as they are cheaper than MoCa (This is not a product recommendation, but something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=psdc_1194444_t3_B008C1JC4O).

u/ReelJV · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Before I bought my house, I used a set in an old apartment building. Worked well for me. I was able to get 120mbps down using it. It should be used as a last resort, but I PERSONALLY had great results.

I used this: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-ethernet-Adapter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537210426&sr=8-3&keywords=tp+link+powerline+adapter&dpID=41SIVgLUmaL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

u/TitleMadeCallPing · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Interesting... Is this sort of like a wifi extender but seems much better? What makes this better/how much better is this compared to the ASUS/TP Link PCIe wifi cards?

Is this what you're talking about? https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=lp_1194444_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1491234889&sr=1-1

u/sathyabhat · 3 pointsr/IndianGaming

The link works fine, thanks!

Also on Amazon India for 4.4k http://www.amazon.in/TP-Link-TL-PA4010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00AWRUICG/

u/YummyMeatballs · 3 pointsr/patientgamers

Cannot recommend these enough:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWRUICG/

One plugs in next to your wireless router, ethernet cable between the two. Other plugs in by your Xbox and then ethernet between the two. Your 360 thinks it's wired in to the router directly, no setup just plug in and you're sorted. Tend to be very reliable too.

You could probably go for the AV200 if you want it a bit cheaper too, unlikely you'd notice the diff.

p.s. not actually sponsored by them - just use them a lot for work.

u/fuzzydunloblaw · 3 pointsr/computers

Powerline networking was made for this type of application. Here's a starter kit on Amazon for cheap. It allows you to use the electrical lines in your walls to transmit data at decent speeds vs having to run cat 5/6 through your walls or having spotty wifi.

u/DexterMorgan67 · 3 pointsr/techsupportmacgyver

Powerline adapters are perfect for what you're looking for. Do not plug them into a surge protector, they get weird. You can get either ones with outlet passthrough or without. I'd also suggest getting these to get that plug off the wall a bit.

u/uacoop · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Or a Powerline Adapter for considerably less effort. Two minutes to setup feels just like normal Ethernet.

u/spookyjack123 · 3 pointsr/freenas

Well, one thing you can do is have a second router as a client bridge (Like a cheap WRT54G) and then have a NIC on the WRT54G feeding into the NAS. Or you can use powerline networking to get 100Mbps through electrical, allowing for a Router to NAS link without clogging up your Wifi. I strongly advise that you use Powerline networking if you have multiple devices that use wifi already.

Of course, the best solution is some ethernet, but since you said that's not possible, go for the powerline solution.

Here's a nice powerline networking solution:
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA4010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=lp_1194444_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1382895299&sr=1-2


Cheers ! And happy FreeNas-ing !

u/E-vanced · 3 pointsr/buildapc

3 words: Powerline. Ethernet. Networking.

TP-LINK AV500 Nano Powerline Adapter Starter Kit, up to 500Mbps (TL-PA4010KIT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_45uiybWP9AMYD

Also, frequently check out r/buildapcsales for sweet deals

Other than that, the only thing I might change is the 1050 to an Rx 470 as that maxes almost everything at 1080p

u/javierito91 · 3 pointsr/techsupport

TP-LINK TL-PA4010KIT - TP-Link TL-PA4010KIT 500Mbps Powerline Homeplug Nano Adapter with 10/100M Ethernet - Twin Pack https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_017HzbABFB3NW

Something like this will work OP. You plug one next to the router with an ethernet and the otherone next to your computer so the internet travels with your house electricity. It worked wonderfull for me

u/rmatthe1 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I bought a powerline adapter for my house at college because my roommate watches Netflix nonstop which causes latency issues when gaming. It should be really easy to setup and it fixed my latency. Just plug into the wall next to your router with ethernet cable going in and then plug the other one in next to your computer and connect to the computer with another ethernet cable.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA4010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=pd_sim_147_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=31IYBNuPwFL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=001NFQSQXCB5J4XYZ6V1

u/sushibagels · 3 pointsr/pathofexile

You should go wired if possible. If running an Ethernet cable from your router to your PC isn't an option consider using a "Powerline Adapter" it will allow you to send your connection through the existing power-lines in your house.

The connection isn't as fast as a normal Ethernet one and can be subject to some interference but it is still much more reliable than WIFI.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520705471&sr=8-1&keywords=ethernet+through+power+outlet

u/Chelsea182 · 3 pointsr/techsupport

Power line adapters and a switch. You would not have to run any cables through your house. The power line adapter uses your existing electrical wiring to transfer data. You then use a switch to plug all your devices into.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B00AWRUICG

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FNFSPY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1482095330&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=tp+link+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=41236oqiHrL&ref=plSrch

Edit spelling

u/para_soul · 3 pointsr/darksouls3

I'm not discrediting your connection, but unless it's literally fibre internet hitting near gigabit speeds, it'll still have an impact with wifi vs ethernet. You can use a powerline adapter, plugged in from the mains AC, to sync your computer and router despite distance. This gives you far less of the minor packet loss you could be experiencing.

If you're interested in a powerline adapter, check this. Though really if you get <10 ping in most games, I'm unsure if you need it.

u/TwilekLa7 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Amazon begs to differ your price assertion: TP-Link AV500 Nano Powerline Adapter Starter Kit, up to 500Mbps (TL-PA4010KIT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KTqtyb74AWZCC

u/IAmARobot_Friend · 3 pointsr/techsupport

If you're only needing this for a single device at a distance, consider Power Line Adapters. They're generally pretty reliable as long as they work at all in your house. They're a two-piece system that uses you in-home power wiring to transmit the signal.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B00AWRUICG

They're simple to setup, but again do NOT work in every case. This will prevent having to wire anything, you'll just need patch cables on each end. One to the router, one to the computer. No super long wires, no cabling, no complex setup. Plug in, push a button, and go.

u/mrrag · 3 pointsr/ChivalryGame

If for some reason installing a cable to directly connect your router to your PC via an ethernet cable is not possible (either you have floors in the way, or just esthetically unviable) you should give PLC a shout, Power-line communication.

Summarizing, it is a device that will carry out data through your electric current without adding noticeable delay. You can connect one device into a power plug, connect an ethernet cable from it to your PC. Then do the same in the room your router/box is at.

This is how they look like, and how much they cost

u/Crossgamer245 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/Brian25savannah · 3 pointsr/Infinitewarfare

TP-Link AV600 Nano Powerline ethernet Adapter Starter Kit, Powerline speeds up to 600Mbps (TL-PA4010KIT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_i_UxIbBbJWJ83TK

This might help, I’ve heard it’s better than WiFi although I’ve never tried it. 100mbps is plenty, I don’t think the extra speed will help if you’re still on WiFi.

u/ComfortableButtSocks · 3 pointsr/smashbros

Honestly, I was in the same boat. Great memories with Smash and my college roommates. Got online to hang out with them when we have time. As long as you don't take every hit seriously and enjoy it for the game, its alright. I use to get mad at the input lag and buttons not working, but I changed to basically play with my friends online (also get a Lan Adapter and tell your friends to as well) and you will have a lot of fun. You might even find another game you guys like to play as well, for us it's Mario Kart, don't drink and drive.

u/webculb · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Amazon Ethernet adapter I picked one of these up for a more stable connection in Splatoon. It's been working great so far.

u/JOEJOE_77 · 3 pointsr/smashbros

One of these bois into the usb port on the switch dock: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M77HMU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uFQZBbXNHJ30N

u/FlickFreak · 3 pointsr/AndroidTV

Anything with the ASIX AX88179 chipset should work fine.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M77HMU0/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYTSN18/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQM8586/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FFJ0RKE/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LLUEJFU/

All of the above should work with any Android based device. (ie. Shield TV, Mi Box or Fire TV)

u/mrgermy · 3 pointsr/AndroidTV

I bought this one and it works for my Mi Box. I don't have the S though so I can't say for sure.

u/SynapticStatic · 3 pointsr/Steam_Link

Just a hair more expensive than your range, but I've been using this for the past few years and it's just fine.

u/FrankenBerryGxM · 3 pointsr/NHLHUT

Since booting is a felony it's a really serious accusation.

It's also really hard to proof

if proven it is really hard to track.


ever since I got this router I haven't been booted, that combined with getting 200mbps download.

u/xscottw · 3 pointsr/centurylink

The cool thing about CenturyLink Gig service is that you don't need a modem at all. The ONT they provide is akin to the modem in the sense that it Modulates and Demodulates light signals. You just need a good router that supports PPPoE authentication and VLAN tagging usually (that can vary on the region a bit)


This modem appears to be decent for less than $100


Most routers on Amazon/Ebay that have "gig ethernet" and "dual band wifi" should be compatible.


Also don't expect to get gig speeds over wifi ever. That's unrealistic unless you buy the best equipment for clients and for your router. If you need the full speed a hardwired ethernet connection to the router is going to be your best bet.

u/mr_biscuits93 · 3 pointsr/Comcast

I just went through the same situation (except I don’t need 150). BUY YOUR MODEM AND ROUTER. I’ve rented the modem/router combo from multiple ISPs over the years and they suck (poor range, internet cuts out randomly, needs constant restarts, etc). Plus it’s $132/year that you’ll never see again.

I bought a like-new router and modem from amazon, optimized the channel settings and my setup kicks 5Ghz signal to the furthest reaches of my apartment, something my previous rented modem/router combos could never do consistently.

Edit: my Setup. I saved some money by not buying brand new. The only component you really need to double check is the modem. Make sure Comcast accepts it.
Modem:
ARRIS SURFboard 16x4 SB6183 DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem- Retail Package- Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ITIXYR0?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Router:
NETGEAR R6700 Nighthawk AC1750 Dual Band Smart WiFi Router, Gigabit Ethernet (R6700) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R2AZLD2?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

u/non_target_eh · 3 pointsr/failingupwards

This is gonna sound so lame but I upgraded my wireless router - got this one at about 50% off - my airport extreme has been fucking up lately - which sucks because I really like it. But my printer is having problems connecting to it and the firmware finally stopped updating on it.

u/timmeedski · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Ummm, nice name.

Depends how in-depth you want to go. If you really want to get into networking, Ubiquiti is a way I recommend. Otherwise, you can just go with something like the Netgear N6700.

Also, do you have TV, or just internet?

u/MeowMixSong · 3 pointsr/cordcutters

You need a portable router to log into the hotel's wifi, and repeat it to your room. They likely have AP isolation on, so each device will not be able to see, (or communicate), with each other. You're basically going to need to set up a router to reroute the hotel's wifi on your own private network. it's the same principal as repeating a public access point for use in your house. These will work for your needs:

Alfa Network 1000mW High Power Wireless G 802.11g Wi-Fi USB Adapter with 5dBi Antenna AWUS036H: $29.99 + Alfa R36 802.11 b/g/N Repeater and Range Extender for AWUS036H:$79.99

Cheaper solution: TP-Link N300 Wireless Wi-Fi Nano Travel Router with Range Extender/Access Point/Client/Bridge Modes (TL-WR802N): $27.95

u/wordyplayer · 3 pointsr/wyzecam

Yes this is the way. Same as for cruise ships.

This one would work for you. You connect this router to comcast. Then you connect a phone or pc to this router and do the Comcast login. Then connect camera to this router. https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Travel-Extender-TL-WR802N/dp/B00TQEX8BO/ref=dp_ob_title_hi


u/exonwarrior · 3 pointsr/Chromecast

I second what /u/darthgeek has said; there isn't really a way to make your Chromecast private without direct access to the router's configuration.

It's also very possible that device discovery won't be possible anyway; also most Unis I know use 801.2X authentication (basically, have to put in your uni email and a pass to connect) so the Chromecast won't work without the travel router anyway.

My friend uses this one and she says it works like a charm - notice it even says "Chromecast compatible" in the description.

u/bman87 · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

That should work. This is cheaper and supports Client mode which is pretty much what you would need. Connect it to your apartments WiFi in client mode, and plug the ethernet cable from it into your routers WAN interface.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Travel-Extender-TL-WR802N/dp/B00TQEX8BO

u/thejawa · 3 pointsr/youtubetv

The best way to do it is to get a travel router. Chromecast doesn't have an authentication page to get you past hotel WiFi logins where you have to sign in every day. You'll likely never get the Chromecast onto the WiFi. The next hurdle is to get past HDMI input locked TVs, which there's a few tricks on the internet but the most recent hotel I was at I couldn't get around it.

Either way, a travel router is a more secure way to browse the internet while at a hotel. It was a great decision in my book and has allowed me to use my Chromecast at numerous places.

The one I got: TP-Link N300 Wireless Portable Nano Travel Router - WiFi Bridge/Range Extender/Access Point/Client Modes, Mobile in Pocket(TL-WR802N) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TQEX8BO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_iLXZBb4PYJ8TC

u/localgeek · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Something like this should do what you need, it takes a little bit of networking know how to get set up initially, but isn't super complicated. It will connect wirelessly to the campground network, then allow you to broadcast your own wifi network off of it. it is only 2.4GHz, but the smart home devices mostly are 2.4 anyway so you wouldn't notice any difference there. it also does have a LAN port you could connect a switch to if you wanted to hard wire other devices into it (or if just 1 device you could connect it direct to the LAN port)

u/ControlEngineer · 3 pointsr/PLC

tplink nano router that is the model I use

u/stevier · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Get two of these and one of these. Put one of the nanobeams on either side of the way you are trying to extend to. You will need a small switch inside the trailer to plug the other nanobeam and the UAP into. The nanobeams in this case replace a physical wire going between the buildings (use one as a sender and one as a receiver).

u/fyrilin · 3 pointsr/hackedgadgets

OP, this is the correct answer. Everyone else is saying a router but those do other things, not just sharing the wired connection over wifi. The most popular access point over in /r/homenetworking is the Ubiquiti Unifi AP-AC Lite.

u/wolfcry0 · 3 pointsr/openwrt

>Any suggestions as to what I should buy?

UAP-AC-Lite: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY

While your internet isn't very fast you still want to have decent LAN transfer speeds. I highly recommend the UniFi gear, it's solid hardware and the central management is great.

>Presumably I'll just need to give them all the same network name and password, and unique channels, and the devices should choose the best access point automatically? Is there anything else I'd need to do?

Nope, that covers it!

u/MalfeasantMarmot · 3 pointsr/PFSENSE

It depends on your budget and technical abilities. For most people getting into this type of networking I usually recommend any of Ubiquiti's Unifi equipment. It all runs off a single web UI and is more user friendly than more serious equipment. You could get a basic 8 port switch and AP from them for less than $200.

Something like this switch and this AP

The AP is powered by the switch using POE (power over ethernet) so you don't need to connect any other cables to it. Unifi is prosumer, it's not quite enterprise level, but it runs on the same principles and can still do some relatively high-level stuff.

Some people in here don't like Ubiquiti products, as they're kind of like the Apple of networking gear, but they provide good products and a good UI imo. I think it's a good way to go for people getting into this side of things. You can get similar TPLink gear for cheaper, but its configuration is more difficult imo.

u/Fallen0 · 3 pointsr/cordcutters

5ghz makes a huge difference! Take a look at the Ubiquity Unifi AP's they have a cheapish 5ghz model. I love them! There pretty simple to install and just work afterwards.

All they do is be an access point and your current router takes care of the rest.

u/l337hackzor · 3 pointsr/gadgets

Honestly repeaters are pretty hit and miss. The better solution is generally a better wireless access point with greater range. If possible wire in a second AP and create a seamless network.

Great value AP (can use more than 1 together if you have a line ran): https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015PR20GY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524511125&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=unifi+apac+lite&dpPl=1&dpID=31-u-5bgo0L&ref=plSrch

If you have to use a repeater I've had good results with this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CGZPQVE/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1524511268&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=tp+link+ac1200&dpPl=1&dpID=31QkJ757pTL&ref=plSrch

I've setup 10+ sites with the unifi AP's they work great and are very reliable. Better to make the jump to enterprise equipment then mess around with home grade junk.

u/okgeekhere · 3 pointsr/techsupport

Wifi boosters suck. They take an already weak signal and just repeat it. If you already have Cat5 this is what you need. It creates it's own wifi signal, a fresh strong on. I have one of these and can catch a usable signal from it literally a block from my home in the park.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015PR20GY/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/sp33d3r · 3 pointsr/Ubiquiti

> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015PR20GY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There's still lots of old stock out there. Very possible you still got an older one with 24V passive. It's the same SKU which makes it more confusing. There should be a sticker on the outside of the box if it's an af/at compatible one.

u/back_like_woa · 3 pointsr/perktv

consumer grade routers are garbage for perk and beermoney stuff. look into something like this:

https://amzn.com/B00YFJT29C

and for an access point, something like this:

https://amzn.com/B015PR20GY

anything consumer grade is really garbage for perk and things that need a router with more processing power. many of the expensive routers barely have any memory (64mb) yet spout nonsense like 'dual core processor at 1ghz!!'.

means shit if you only have 64mb of ram to work with.

the router i listed has 256mb, and if you need something more, there is an upgraded version of it that has 512.

u/Harlson · 3 pointsr/homelab

You could wire up a couple Ubiquiti UAP-AC-PROs, no hardware controller (it's a free app that can be installed on any computer on the network). That's what I and most of my co-workers use for our houses.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRO512/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdo_AP1cAbX642Q18

u/Todok5 · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I'm also currently researching APs for my new house. If you need a single AP I would get an UAP-AC-LITE which includes a PoE injector for power. If you need multiple APs like me then a switch with PoE + UAP-AC-PROs is the way I will probably go.

Any brand will work and you could get a cheaper one. They differ in signal quality/range, reliability, speed/features and ease of setup.

How they are linked differs by brand.

u/QuadTechy88 · 3 pointsr/htpc

Might I suggest a more prosummer solution.

Look at ubiquiti gear. It’s what I run at my home and we deploy there access points and switches at over 200 customers. They are excellent for the price

Gateway/router
Ubiquiti Unifi Security Gateway (USG) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LV8YZLK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HE45BbH0YVZR8

8 port Poe switch
Ubiquiti UniFi Switch 8 60W (US-8-60W) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MU3WUX1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hF45BbGNDVBBR

Access point
Ubiquiti Networks Unifi 802.11ac Dual-Radio PRO Access Point (UAP-AC-PRO-US) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRO512/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XF45BbNXXZSJ2

These products will allow you to make sure your wireless network is on something with the least interference, you can also band steer clients to use the less congested 5ghz band all on the same wireless network. Instead of having to make a separate one 2.4 and 5. Which is what most all in one home devices do.

This will over all be a much more flexible system as well. Find an area that doesn’t have good WiFi coverage. Run a cable and add an AP there, or they can even mesh and do it with out a cable.

u/spindrjr · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

This is a great one, though you will need to run controller software somewhere. There is no master/slave stuff with APs, they just each offer a way for wireless clients to connect to the wired network. With Ubiquiti stuff, once you have the controller running, setup is very easy. And if you buy into the whole line (Unifi Security Gateway, and Unifi switch), you can do more advanced stuff like VLAN and guest networks super simple as the controller takes care of all the tricky stuff for you.

u/swrdfish · 3 pointsr/techsupport

2 routers is not the solution. You may need something like this.

Unifi AC AP Pro If your house is long, and the signal doesn't reach, put one of these at each end ( or something simialr ).

It kinda depends what's in the walls in your place. 20 feet and drywall should not cause a problem for any router.

unless it's an old house with concrete or wire mesh in the walls, you shouldn't be ok with a router in the middle.

My go to is the ASUS RT-AC68U It's got good signal and enough RAM to deal with all kinds of shit.

u/ryanhollister · 3 pointsr/Ubiquiti

moca is the answer. I was all EoP but needed to get top speed to a second building ~200ft away and these moca adapters worked awesome with easily 500mbps.


Actiontec Bonded MoCA 2.0... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013J7O3X0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/whiteyonenh · 3 pointsr/DataHoarder

If you have coax cable runs for Cable/Satellite TV, MoCa might be an option. I'm unsure what the max speeds are on it, but it should be much more consistent than powerline. If you have TV via the cable company or an OTA antenna setup you'll need a MoCa entry/POE filter (to prevent the signals from leaving the house), and you'll want to use at least MoCa 2.0 to get near 1Gbps speeds. I haven't personally used the adapters, but if you're willing to try it, and have existing coax runs, buying them from a place that has a good return policy would be what I would try. If you have DirecTV, there's also the DECA adapters (don't use these on a cable TV setup, they'll mess with TV/Internet reception because of the frequency/spectrum changes made to make these work on satellite systems.)

Something like these could work out well IMHO. Reviews seem OK, and Amazon has a decent enough return policy. https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200K02/dp/B013J7O3X0/

u/washu_k · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

The first one is a DECA adapter. It only works with cable that is either not active or has satellite service. It does not work with cable that has an active TV and/or Internet signal on it. It is also limited to 100 Mbps.

The 2nd one is an old MoCA 1.0 adapter so also limited to 100 Mbps. You should get a 2.0 adapter, they are much faster.

https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200K02/dp/B013J7O3X0/

u/taylorwmj · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

This will be your best bet. You'll take a ethernet cable out from your router/switch into one of these and then coax out to the wall. From there you'll place another near the device(s) you need better coverage with and take the coax from the wall into the other of this device, and then plug the ethernet from the MoCA adaptor into your other device or switch.

https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200K02/dp/B013J7O3X0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482101870&sr=8-1&keywords=actiontec+moca

u/RansomOfThulcandra · 3 pointsr/techsupport

You can do it yourself.

Assuming none of your existing equipment supports MoCA, you can get a two-pack of adapters like one of these:

Edit: Note that MoCA 2.x is newer and faster than MoCA 1.x, but other than that they work the same, and are compatible with each other.

  • https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013J7O3X0

  • https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019MDRX5A

  • https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008EQ4BQG

    If one of the devices already supports MoCA (TiVO, some Verizon modems, etc), you can just get a single adapter instead of the two-pack.

    You'll also need to get MoCA-rated splitters for your basement (or wherever the cable lines in your house run to). Either get one with as many outputs as your existing splitter and replace it completely, or get a smaller one and use it to split the signal from your main splitter into the cable for each room where you want to use MoCA. You want something like these, but there are many options with different port counts:

  • https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00558UJTO

  • https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00556LI1E

  • https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M34OZ2S

    Finally, you need a Point-of-Entry filter to prevent your MoCA signal from leaking out to your neighbors through your cable connection. You put it on your cable line before your splitter(s) and it blocks the MoCA signal from passing through:

  • https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DC8IEE6

  • https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M4ODQTS


    Edit: My setup is cabled as follows:

    The cable tv / Internet line enters my home in the basement. I have the Point-of-Entry filter screwed onto the cable, and then into a MoCA splitter. Coax cables run from the splitter to various rooms in my house.

    In the room with my modem and router, I have a cable from the wall jack to the "coax in" side of a MoCA adapter. I have a short cable from the "tv/stb" side of the MoCA adapter to my modem. There is an ethernet cable from the modem to the WAN port on my router (this gives my router its Internet connection), and then an ethernet cable from a LAN port on the router to the ethernet port on the MoCA adapter (this gives the MoCA network access to the Internet).

    In the room with my TV, I have a cable from the wall jack to the "coax in" side of another MoCA adapter. I have don't actually use cable TV service (just Internet), but if I did, I would have a cable from the "tv/stb" side of the MoCA adapter to my TV. There is an ethernet cable from the MoCA adapter to my Roku to provide it with Internet access through the MoCA network.

    I actually use this adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CZ6WC3A by my TV rather than one of the smaller ones, because it has four ethernet ports instead of one. I bought it before MoCA 2.0 devices were available. If you only have one ethernet port on your adapter but need to connect multiple devices, you can get a small network switch instead. I was just trying to avoid extra boxes next to my TV.
u/porksandwich9113 · 3 pointsr/Fios

Err..idk what /u/Ryao is selling you, but MoCA isn't that bad, and it certainly doesn't have a higher latency than WIFI!

As long as your FiOS speed is 100/100 or below, you can expect to get your full speed over even the shittiest of Coax cable, it can even generally do 150/150, but Verizon will default to an Ethernet install because it can vary based on your home's condition.

MoCA 1.1 has a PHY rate of about 275mbit (give or take depending on wire condition, length,etc) and you can expect to do about 175mbit over it no problem.

I believe most if not all ONTs are still on 1.1. This will be limiting if you plan on doing transfers over a local network. (I.E. you have a networked storage or something similar).

Rather than running your whole networking coming from the ONT over Coax, I recommend buying a bonded MoCA adapter pack and creating your own, much faster MoCA network.

These do MoCA 2.0, which is a PHY rate of 1.4Gbit, with real world speeds near 1Gbit.

https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200K02/dp/B013J7O3X0

You plug one end into your router, then tap it into the coax network, then the other end wherever you want your network extension to end. You can either run it to a single device, or you could add a switch/or second AP at the end location.

You can buy as many as the adapter as you want and put end points in different locations if you want a wired connection in those locations.

The one I linked can do gbit assuming your coax is in decent condition.

This guy here tested this specific model and was able to full 104-108MB/s over his network with them.

https://www.reddit.com/r/HomeNetworking/comments/3iei9m/my_initial_impressions_of_the_actiontec_ecb6000/

u/IphtashuFitz · 3 pointsr/Tivo

If you have a spare ethernet port on your router or the "splitter" you mention (I'm assuming a switch) then all you need is an ethernet cable from the switch/router to the port in the wall that runs to the bedroom, and a second ethernet cable running from the mini to the ethernet port in the bedroom wall.

If you'd rather use a MoCA connection then you'd need to buy a MoCA adapter like one of these, along with a Coax splitter & some coax pigtails, and run an ethernet connection from your switch/router to the MoCA box, and connect the MoCA box to your existing coax using a splitter.

So ethernet will be much less expensive considering you already have a run between the two rooms that you can use. And you don't gain or lose anything by going with ethernet over MoCA. I've been running ethernet between my Romaio (recently upgraded to a Bolt) and a Mini for a few years now.

u/IceDevilGray-Sama · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

I've been using a pair of these to get internet to the second floor from my basement and they work wonders. You should also buy a POE Filter to put in where your coax enters the house.


Then you plug one into your router and attatch the coax. If you have a cable box, it has a built in splitter to let you hook that up too. Then you plug coax into the other one in the place where you want internet, and then the ethernet cable into your device.

u/caller-number-four · 3 pointsr/Charlotte

You don't need all that.

Order this - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013J7O3X0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

One plugs into the switch near/on/in your router and the other end goes on to your remote room. From there you can plug the 2nd adapter onto a switch or an AP or whatever. Wammo blamo.

No new MoCA router required.

u/Lord_Emperor · 3 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

> unifi ap lite

$115 right now.

> edge router

I assume you mean the ER-X which is 82.66 and isn't in the Unifi product line.

So yes you're in for about $200 assuming you can get by with 3 Ethernet ports, or are you adding a switch to this setup as well? A full Unifi setup (Unifi router, switch and AP) starts at about $400 for the no PoE versions.

In any case unless the space you're servicing is absolutely huge and/or you have Gigabit upload (and need to use it) there's no practical benefit to it over a good consumer router.

u/PM-ME-D_CK-PICS · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

You're right, that's the older model. I looked for the cheapest one. Anyway here's the newer model it's only $10 more. Outperforms anything you got. Whole write up shitting on you coming soon. Stay tuned.

u/PythonTech · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Kudos on thinking ahead on this kind of stuff.

It's a more "advanced" router / firewall but the Mikrotik equipment is very powerful, especially for how much it costs. It's not a router common in a home setting, but lots of ISP's use the higher end models for the backbone of their networks.

This will outperform any off the shelf router you can buy at the stores:
https://www.amazon.com/Mikrotik-RB750Gr3-5-port-Ethernet-Gigabit/dp/B01MSUMVUB/

Since you have a month before the event this would give you time to get familiar with the router and make any changes you need.

The router doesn't have wireless, but my suggestion is to always use a separate AP for wireless anyways. Get a Unifi AP::

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/

Now your thinking "I said there's going to be 6-8 people, and that router only has 4 lan ports!" Correct, you should use a switch:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Ethernet-Replacement-Unmanaged-TL-SG108/dp/B00A121WN6

The main benefit of running all these things separate from each other is you don't have to have them central to your gaming. The router can stay with the modem and just 1 cable has to run out to the switch.

Now if you are going to do this more often or want higher end gear, let me know and i'll offer up a different set of suggestions.

u/srdjanrosic · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Personally, I'd go with a simple dumb switch and a really nice access point

I think this fits your budget, just don't forget to get a couple of patch cables as well.

actually, the above is a lie, I'd personally go with a hAP ac .. and I have, it's just it's not for everyone as it can be a little complicated, .. but the other access point I mentioned above is good too.

u/GotMyOrangeCrush · 3 pointsr/Atlanta

What you need to do is log into your AT&T Residential Gateway (RG) web interface, navigate to the 'Wireless Interface' page and find the 'disable' button.

Below link is a how-to guide for Netgear, but the disable procedure applies to all devices:

u/minimuminim · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Buy a wifi adapter, they're like $15.

u/Galeanthrope · 3 pointsr/linux_gaming

You can download the last version of the linux-firmware package from Debian Sid repository and install it. If it doesn't work there is ndispwrapper but it's way more simple to buy a 15$ working USB adapter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002SZEOLG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494029810&sr=8-1&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=722n

u/MermenRisePen · 3 pointsr/libreboot

I like this TP-Link one. It has an external antenna, and is one of few that has free firmware in Linux so it works out-of-the-box.

u/bengineering101 · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I can personally vouch that the following peripherals work, but certainly make no guarantees that they are the best options or prices etc. If you are feeling really ambitious you can browse the list of verified peripherals and shop around.

  • Logitech K400 wireless keyboard/mouse combo
  • Edimax USB wifi dongle
  • Plugable 7-port USB hub (this does not back-power the Pi as far as I know)
  • The Pi is cable of providing audio/video out either through the HDMI port, or through the yellow RCA port (video) and the 3.5mm stereo jack (audio). If you're already using an HDMI cable, you do not need to worry about the latter two.
  • Updating the OS: open a terminal and type:


    sudo apt-get update

    sudo apt-get upgrade

    and that should update everything.
u/Th3AntiNoob · 3 pointsr/techsupport

These are cheap and come highly recommended for basic network access:

http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-Adapter-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY

u/EpicTShirt · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/minimalillusions · 3 pointsr/gaming
u/ilogik · 3 pointsr/linux

They also want to make the device available to developing countries, so it's not that unlikely that ethernet won't be available.

also, you might not want ethernet if you've got one of these lying around

u/PaulTheMerc · 3 pointsr/24hoursupport

The one alternative that comes to mind would be to buy and use a usb wifi adapter, something like this. Then disable the built in wifi adapter.

Alternatively, depending on the accessibility, remove the internal wifi and install a different one, IF the part is the specific issue(and not say, the connection of the part), hp should be able to tell you more.

for an internal wifi that is reported to work with that pc, as per here (provided your pc is the HP ENVY touchsmart 15), would be to get this part(Intel® Dual Band Wireless-AC 7260). Note there is a revised and non revised version, am not sure which of the two would work, if not both. That I leave to you.

u/s_mohr · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

This looks pretty close to what you're asking for: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Universal-Short-20cm-Right-Angle-90-Degree-Micro-B-USB-Data-Charging-Cable-/321245338289

20cm is pretty short, but you'll still have a little bit of slack to deal with. Zip ties?


Although, really, your wifi adapter sounds way too big. Why not replace it? http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-Adapter-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1408500091&sr=8-2-fkmr1&keywords=wifi+adapter+enermax

Aesthetically that will look nicer, and it's not a lot more money than a quality USB cable.

u/HeidiH0 · 3 pointsr/linuxquestions

That's usually due to the drivers being proprietary and abandoned. You would be better served spending 10 bucks on a kernel native adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY

u/killerapt · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

It will probably be awhile before im done, just something i play with ever now and then. However Google is your friend. NESpi is a pretty common build. Also I'm an amateur when it comes to soldering lol

My final goal is to have it so it you can insert a nes cartridge with a usb in it and it will read games from this. Also working on getting an old laptop fan to run when it reaches certain temps to help cool it down.

I also tore apart a powered usb hub to power the pi and connect controllers. However I would find one better than mine. Get something with high voltage/amperage. I currently have to power the pi separately instead of through the hub.

Some links for you:



Intro:

https://github.com/retropie/retropie-setup/wiki/First-Installation


Switch I use to make so the NES power button works.

https://mausberry-circuits.myshopify.com/collections/frontpage/products/shutdown-circuit-use-your-own-switch


Controllers
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N48L71I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0QcmzbVPP292R

Wi-Fi
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WUcmzbESCH58S

Then just any short usb and HDMI extensions.

Hope this helps!

u/AL1630 · 3 pointsr/VintageApple

If you run tiger on it, there's one of those tiny wifi dongles that has drivers that will work. I've used it on this and the G4 server.
Only problem is the slow USB ports.

This is it

u/Akyltour · 3 pointsr/gaming

Hi there, sorry for the late answer I was out for the week-end!

It will depends highly on what you expect him to do with it, and also your budget. But for the more standard it will be at least:

  • The Pi

  • A power cable: the "Alim" was a bad use of a french word for power cable

  • A case or another (You can also build one with Legos! :D )

  • a microSD card for the OS (no preference I took the first link I saw)

    Then there can be:

  • A usb wifi adapter if the can't plug an ethernet cable

  • An hdmi cable if you think he will use it on his TV or standard PC monitor.

  • About the controller, if you think he will build a media center linked to his TV with the HDMI cable, some TVs allow the use of "CEC" controller, and so his TV command will be automatically compatible with the Pi. Else, he can use a classic keyboard and mouse set, or some mobile solution or even a snes usb controller if he wants to build a retrogaming console

  • To finish if you have a large budget for your friend there is a lot of accessories you can find in the related articles of the Pi on Amazon, like a webcam, a motion sensor module

  • You can also buy a complete bundle or a starter kit like this if you think he will have fun with all the electronic parts :)

    And I confirm, it can be a pretty cool gift for a friend to build :)
u/muxman · 3 pointsr/LifeProTips
u/compdog · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I've used this one for every Pi I've owned, plus a few computers. It works great and doesn't need any drivers, but the signal range is kind of poor.

u/hudsonreaders · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Easy. You'll need a monitor, ideally something with a USB port so you can use the USB power to power the Pi; otherwise you'll need a phone-charger style USB power supply to plug in. A SD or microSD card, depending on which model Pi you get. For wifi, something like this. For software, pick one the Digital Signage projects. http://elinux.org/RPi_Projects/Digital_Signage

u/rabidfurby · 3 pointsr/freebsd

Edimax EW-7811. ~7000 Amazon reviews, so you at least know it's reliable hardware-wise.

The manpage for urtwn(4) explicitly lists support for it. I've used mine in a Raspberry Pi under both FreeBSD and Linux with zero issues.

u/phoenixMagoo · 3 pointsr/mac

I had the Powermac G5 back in the day with the optional Apple WiFi card and it was not very good. I would maybe look for a USB WiFi solution like: http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY

I would just be sure to make sure that whatever USB WiFi adapter you get the drivers works on a PowerPC and 10.5.8.

u/sebweyn · 3 pointsr/Hue

Bluetooth is likely less reliable and slower than WiFi. I don’t know how apps would work but they’re probably more limited as well (e.g. no automations).

If it’s about the Ethernet port you should probably get an Ethernet switch. This one isn’t the cheapest but I know it works well.

u/omeganon · 3 pointsr/xboxone

This guy gave terrible advice. You're already behind a router and adding another is going to mess up your NAT. If the UNI allows you to have multiple devices on the network then you just need to buy a cheap switch. I highly recommend https://www.amazon.com/Netgear-GS105NA-Prosafe-5-Port-Gigabit/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1465900519&sr=1-1&keywords=Net+gear+prosafe+5+port

u/Iiaeze · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

You can add more switches. Get a unnmanaged gigabit switch and that's basically all you need. This is what I have running at my friend's place and I set it up about 2 years ago with no complaints since.

I'm not sure how cheap you can really go with these, I see under 20 options on Amazon - maybe someone else can chime in?

u/talones · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Dont get a powerline adapter, just go from the Router into the wall, then patch that line into a 5 port gigabit switch, like a netgear or something. Then you can patch the rest of the wall RJ-45's to the switch.

edit: This is what you want... Netgear

u/Mighty72 · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Just pull a network cabel from your router to your counter. Buy a small 5 port switch and plug that cable and the two cables from that computer and CCmachine into that switch. Your cable can be up to 300ft long.

u/longjohnsilver30 · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Yea you got it. The modem gives internet and that connects to the USG which is a firewall/router. From there you connect the switch into the USG. Then the switch into the AC Pro. And if you have other wired devices they connect to the switch.

Modem --> USG --> Switch --> AC Pro

I would recommend you get an unmanaged switch since it seems you may not need the extra options of a managed switch

u/imadethis2014 · 3 pointsr/techsupport

CAT5e splitters will only link two devices as 10/100Mbps

If your computer is set, or trying to negotiate at 1000Mbps, it will not work - you can try to force it to 100Mbps in the settings.

Better than a CAT5e splitter is to buy a cheap switch...
This is the correct way to get more Ethernet ports out of one run...
Example: http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSafe-Gigabit-Ethernet-Desktop/dp/B0000BVYT3

"I'm about ready to cry, jack off, cry, and go to sleep" ...well that's might be fun, but it's not going to help the situation any.

u/yoshi_bro · 3 pointsr/emu

Yes. I haven't heard of many problems with stealing. In terms of bringing your own router, depending on how you set up your room you might not need one. I bought an Ethernet switch for 10 bucks and could connect to 4 things (mine was set up to my roku, ps3, ps4, and computer). That way is cheaper than a router and it gets the job done. The internet is pretty dang good actually.


The one I got is $9.95 on Amazon

TP-Link 5-Port Fast Ethernet Desktop Switch (TL-SF1005D)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FNFSPY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_d1JFybKTXF699

u/a_magic_wizard · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/tajwk · 3 pointsr/CableManagement

Pick up a cheap network switch and you only need to run one long cable

u/Aytrx · 3 pointsr/CoDCompetitive

An ethernet desktop switch. I have this one, so you could buy 2 of those or buy one bigger one.(16 port one). The 8 port switch wouldn't work because there would be 8 players but one of the ports must be used for the internet connection from your router or modem. LAN stand for Local Area Network, so that means you all need to be connected to the same ip.

u/cexshun · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I don't have a pic, but there are several like mine.

3d printed Pi stack

3d printed Anker stack(compatible with above stack)

Tiny switch 5V

Anker USB power brick

Then just a handful of 1ft ethernet cables and 1ft USB cables. You can buy the USB to Barrel power cable for the switch, or if you are comfortable with a soldering iron, make one yourself.

u/tacsquid · 3 pointsr/amateurradio

eh that's what happens when I try to do shit with my phone

https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-2-4HGz-RP-SMA-Screw--Antenna/dp/B003ZWPRUI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465983658&sr=8-1&keywords=alfa+panel

AMP makes a very noticeable difference but I don't think it's really putting a full 2W. It's cheap though so worth it IMO. Range depends entirely on location, elevation, weather, and what you are "shooting into". Starbucks into an office building is going to have a lot shittier range than say the top of a parking garrage down into a park.

This is basically my "what a hacker might use" set up. The panel, amp, and a NHA and NHR alfa worked great for long range but had some issues with missing packets in Kali. I found the best collection was using airpap cards in Windows wireshark and running attacks via the alfa set up in a Kali Vm.

Also needless to say the airpcap nx card with the 2 external antennas was king but it's a freaking $700 wifi card so it better be.

https://www.cacetech.com/documents/AirPcap%20Nx%20Datasheet.pdf

If you can get 3-4 airpcap classic cards off ebay for cheap (I found 3 for $200) each one can cover 20 mhz of spectrum and you can link them in aggregate with the airpcap control panel. This makes it highly effective for a leave behind collection device against a router that self adjusts. Price might put it out of the range of a regular hacker and more into the industrial espionage price range. You may be able to find an NX for cheap on ebay it seems like cace is getting out of the market with the whole airpcap line so they are getting kinda rare.

edit

also don't forget the noble cantenna. Looks shady as fuck but it's good if you're on a college student budget. You can usually get them just as good as an alfa panel antenna, they just look like a big sign that says "i am up to no good". Make sure if you are using an alfa with an RP SMA connector to build it out of an RP sma and not a regular SMA. Ie fit the pieces together and make sure they're the right kind before you start doing anything.

http://www.turnpoint.net/wireless/cantennahowto.html

edit edit

also check this little guy out. I found him out after I finished my 802.11 stuff but i like it a little better than the alfa cards. Doesn't come with a super fancy antenna when you buy it but it's a lot cheaper and just as good once you put a panel or cantenna on it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002SZEOLG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/n0coder · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Absolutely. They sell wifi usb adapters and such if you don't have a built in wifi on the motherboard. I'm assuming you have wifi provided some where.

An example: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN722N/dp/B002SZEOLG

*Edit: example added.

u/leboulanger007 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I have been using this USB Wi-Fi adapter without any problems since the past couple months. Super cheap and easy to set up, works perfectly.

u/l3af_on_the_wind · 3 pointsr/HowToHack

Alfa cards are great for most things you need to do for any kind of wireless hacking. However, not too long ago I ran into a few issues where mine wasn't compatible with some tools I was trying to use. I got this and it worked for me. You just need to do some research and make sure whatever you get is compatible for what you will be doing with it.

u/TheLonelyLumen · 3 pointsr/xboxone

http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00F0DD0I6/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1465175715&sr=1-1&keywords=nighthawk

this is what I upgraded to and it has made a huge difference in watching movies from my Plex Server on XB1 compared to my old outdated router which didn't even get full bars in my 1k sq ft. condo..

I have had zero problems with this router.. easily stream 1080p 4gb movie files and of course my multiplayer gaming experience has been solid.



Checkout http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-wi-fi-router/ for other options though I think the Nighthawk R7000 is better if you can swing it.

u/lantech · 3 pointsr/wireless

Cheap? That's relative especially with those specs required...
I like Asus lately:

http://www.amazon.com/RT-AC66U-Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1750-Gigabit-Router/dp/B008ABOJKS

The Netgear Nighthawk is more:

http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00F0DD0I6

Are you sure you need a router though? It might be you just need an access point.

u/GinjaSlice · 3 pointsr/xboxone

This for a very good router for a decent price

This if you want to spend a little more and have the best.

u/manirelli · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I picked up this badboy and haven't had to reset it even once since it was purchased ~6 months ago

http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00F0DD0I6

The features and interface are crazy easy to use and there is a ton of customization if you need it.

u/sjs31 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Here's the Amazon link bud.

DM me if you need help setting it up.

u/xeqtr_inc · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Go for Ubiquity if your house is big, say 2000sq/ft+, multiple stories and thick walls. because you need to setup at least 2 APs to cover the whole house.

If not go for Netgear R7000

https://www.amazon.com/R7000-100PAS-Nighthawk-Parental-Controls-Compatible/dp/B00F0DD0I6/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1537944464&sr=1-2&keywords=netgear+r7000

Its definitely much more expensive then R6700 but its worth an invest. Still within your budget also.

​

u/PM_ME__YOUR__FEARS · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Have you done a WiFi survey using a mobile app or something? (some are free and they use your phone's antenna)

If your WiFi isn't too crowded (or at least if you can find a frequency that isn't overrun in your apartment) a standard WiFi network should have no problem here even for online gaming.

Just make sure you have a solid router; I'm a big fan of the R7000 because of it's custom firmware compatibility, but whatever floats your boat.

u/ceresia · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Running in passthrough or AP mode will be less strain on the device, so ultimately it shouldn't bother you. I've run $20 wireless routers as passthrough devices and not had issues.


You seem to have money to burn, looking at that pfsense setup, so why not grab a very nice wireless router? I run THIS at home and I know there are newer ones out now, but it's a beast.

Good luck with the electricity bills on that home built pfsense :/

u/MassOrbit · 3 pointsr/torrents

Are you using the wireless part of that combo? Their modem combo is your problem. What is the model number of your modem combo? Get this ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6190 and the NETGEAR Nighthawk and your troubles will end

u/RichardBLine · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

In my house, I use this Netgear router, and it work great:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0DD0I6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My house is about 2900 square and it covers the whole house without any issues.


u/slayerbrk · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I swapped my modem for a Motorola Surfboard and got a Netgear router haven't had any issues with the setup.

Note that I pay for the fastest internet spectrum offers amd plan to upgrade to fiber when spectrums competitor in my area lays the lines so my setup is a tad overkill.

u/anteedum · 3 pointsr/frontierfios

I had Frontier (Verizon at the time) provision ethernet. So I have straight ethernet from the ONT.

Currently using an this router and so far its worked well for me.

u/mmlzz · 3 pointsr/chartercable

I like the Asus RT-AC68U

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FB45SI4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WrfyDb3N1GVWP

It has good range and I like the firmware.

For mesh the orbi from Netgear is pretty good.

u/drmacinyasha · 3 pointsr/verizon

Like /u/WindAeris mentioned, the T-Mobile Test Drive is a great way to get a real-world idea of what their service is like.

They do put a $700 hold on your card, so make sure whatever card number you give them can take that. The iPhone 5S they give you has unlimited minutes, texts, and unthrottled data so you can then run around and test the network to your heart's content, then return the phone to any T-Mobile retail store on the last day. Once you return it, and the store determines that it's not damaged, the hold is removed from your card and that's it.

Also, if you're frequently at areas that have good Wi-Fi networks, T-Mobile has Wi-Fi calling and texting on iOS 8 and almost all of their Android phones. Devices which also support VoLTE (iPhone 6 and a handful of Androids) can do seamless handoff between Wi-Fi and VoLTE calls without dropping the call.

If service is so-so in your home, you can get a free signal booster from them which'll strengthen their 3G, 4G, and LTE signals ($25 deposit after September 24^th), or you can get what's basically a ASUS RT-AC68U (a seriously kick-ass 802.11ac dual-band router) optimized for Wi-Fi calling for a $25 deposit (though you have to return it if you ever leave T-Mo) or $99 outright from T-Mobile if you're on a prepaid or a no credit check plan.

u/croy_00 · 3 pointsr/theNvidiaShield

This is what I am running at home, and it works flawlessly. I own both the portable and the Shield, and use both with this router without issue.

I am also running a wireless PCE-AC68 card from my PC, instead of wired, but again have zero issues.

u/KCBassCadet · 3 pointsr/iRacing

You don’t need to jack with QoS, I’ve never touched that in my life.

Do yourself a favor and go buy an Asus router like this one and you won’t need to screw around with any settings. Unbox, plug it in, race. Do NOT waste time with budget routers, stay away from Netgear and Linksys.

https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Band-AiMesh-Router-AC1900-System/dp/B00FB45SI4

u/ThunderSizzle · 3 pointsr/Chattanooga

Also to clarify, if you know you'll be using a router for any prolonged period at time (e.g. more than a month or two in your near-future life), then you should invest in buying the router yourself, rather than renting it. You can obviously get a higher-end router, or a lower-end router, and both will be sufficient for 1Gbps transfers (just check the stats first. 1000Mbps = 1Gbps). Either way, even with an insane router, you'll probably pay it off inside a year (in terms of EPB). If you need help setting it up, ask around, offer some beers to a tech friend/acquaintance to set it up and show you anything you might need to know.

This is my router, which is obviously one of the pricier ones, but this specific one is "paid off" inside 7 months.

From initial glancing, this router would also be sufficient, and would be "paid off" inside 3 months.

Also, the main reason to rent would be that the monthly payment is cheaper in the long run - e.g. you replace the router every 1-2 years or something - but that's not going to happen. The monthly payment will rarely be cheaper in the long run. Routers will last multiple years even outside of warranty. And they don't have the upgrade cycle of a phone. And you'll rarely, if ever, need to "turn it off and turn it on" like those old blue Linksys routers. Those sucked.

u/n_ct · 3 pointsr/sysadmin

The easiest route I would recommend is buying a WiFi router that can run a VPN Server on it. If you bought a consumer grade router it might support it already. (Most ISP provided routers don’t) My parents use this option on their network. You’ll need to open up specific ports on your router and setup a DDNS domain name. Hit me up if you have any questions about the process.

ASUS RT-AC68U

u/tagey · 3 pointsr/PS4

Well, for starters it is Christmas Weekend, so people are probably downloading their games, patches, etc - so it's bogging Sony's servers a bit. The other piece of the puzzle is that the wireless card inside the PS4 is crap. However, I did see that you said you're hardwired, so first and foremost, try restarting your modem/router. If that doesn't fix it, try unplugging it and leaving it unplugged for 10 - 20 seconds, so that it can refresh itself. If that doesn't work, then you'll want to look into getting a new router/modem. However, because you're with Xfinity I can already tell you, they will give you a modem for $X/mo, and then you can just get a router. My suggestion, if you have lots of people using the internet, or you just want to buy to not have to buy every 2 years try this - I have been a loyal customer for ASUS for the last 7 or so years and I love their products.

u/ttustudent · 3 pointsr/SantaFe

Surfboard Modem with Docsis e
3 ARRIS SURFboard SB6183 Modem 16x4 Docsis 3.0 Cable Modem- Retail Packaging- White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MA5U1FW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eJCSAbX1T8PQ8

And a fancy Asus router ASUS AC1900 WiFi Dual-band 3x3 Gigabit Wireless Router with AiProtection Network Security Powered by Trend Micro, AiMesh Whole Home WiFi System Compatible (RT-AC68U) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FB45SI4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YJCSAb3XP5Y3P

u/BirdsNoSkill · 3 pointsr/PS4

http://www.amazon.com/RT-AC68U-Wireless-AC1900-Dual-Band-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00FB45SI4

I have this. My nephew bought his PS4 over and everything works perfectly out of the box zero issues. Played AW together no problems.

u/Anxiety_Advice_Giver · 3 pointsr/RBI

I am using this router. I will hop on tonight and see if I can find out how much data people are using.

Do you know how to block BitTorrent? Google gave me the Port ID. Would that help at all?

u/szimmerm · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Is this deal from /r/buildapcsales worth it?

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00FB45SI4

u/houndazs · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I have the Asus AC68U Router paired with an Arris 6190 Modem. Blazing speeds ready for Gigabit internet. I'm a network engineer, and this is what i use.

Edit: I also game with this Asus PCIe WiFi Adapter

u/fedsam · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Log in to the UI of your zyxel and see if there is a wifi bridge option. if so, use that. If not, then get something like THIS which is a bridge.

u/asjmcguire · 3 pointsr/Chromecast

Yup, that means it's working as intended. Nope they don't need the Chromecast app - that's only for setting it up. The only way to achieve what you want is to have the Chromecast on it's own network that is separate to the main network - not just extending the original network. This means that you require a router that gives out DHCP addresses and uses the original network as it's backhaul internet connection. A router like this: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WR802N-Wireless-Repeater-300Mbps/dp/B00TQEX8BO/ref=dp_ob_title_ce would do the job. You connect it in Hotspot mode and tell it to use the existing wireless network or it's internet connection.

u/KooshOveride · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking
u/oldpueblo · 3 pointsr/sonos

You can buy your own access point and connect it via wireless to the existing router/access point. When I take my Sonos gear to remote places for events I use this little guy to manage it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TQEX8BO

Now whether or not someone higher up the network chain can still see your speakers, I don't know. You could also go into the speaker settings and disable wireless, then run ethernet to them from a small switch that connects to that device. Not sure if that'd keep them isolated or not, I'll see if I can replicate that and let you know. Then your phone could just connect to your own hotspot then upstream to the other wifi. It's another hop, but maybe you don't care when it comes to your phone. Alternatively get a similar device with better Wi-Fi speeds, just know that Sonos will only use the "older protocols".

u/yellowfin35 · 3 pointsr/qnap

A few things come to mind, but I am no "pro".

How large is the swap file/drive for your photo editing program? You may want to make this really large so only saved projects reach back out to the network to make changes.

Why do you have wireless read/write speeds on your qnap? Plug both Ethernet cables into the router and then bind the services.

Router only supports 300mb/sec? I assume that is your ISP's down? This is likely your bottle neck, lots of ISP modem/router/wireless hot spots are cheap and have poor internal network routing. I would suggest an upgrade. Make the modem/router only a modem and if you want to go cheap, get something like an edge router lite.

I am running a TS-653a, 3x ports binded on the back and unfi networking hardware. Over a wired connection I often pull 100+mb/sec down

u/NextGen28 · 3 pointsr/milwaukee

Going to copy/paste this from my history as its asked rather frequently on this sub.
--

Spectrum is fine, if you can get AT&T Fiber go that route. Check to see if you're able to get Fiber here;

https://www.att.com/internet/fiber.html

(Note, only their 1000/1000 speed is 'uncapped' -- the rest of their offerings, Fiber or DSL has a data cap)

For Spectrum, you're looking at:

200/10 (or) 400/20 (or) 940/35

The base tier is fine for the vast overwhelming majority of people. You'd probably know if you needed more speed than the base tier (Eg: Off site backups, serving up Plex to friends/family..etc) Spectrum also has no data caps on any of their speed tiers. You'll use a Spectrum modem (which they provide for free) but use your own router as they do charge a monthly fee for wifi. As far as what networking gear to get, that's easy.

Get yourself

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeRouter-Advanced-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00YFJT29C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1534877933&sr=8-1&keywords=ubiquiti+edgerouter + https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Long-Range/dp/B015PRCBBI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1534877954&sr=8-3&keywords=ubiquiti+access+point

and have worry free wifi. Don't bother with routers from Asus/Netgear/TpLink..etc. They're comparatively junk next to the ubiquiti equipment.

If you're going with Spectrum, use your own Wifi infrastructure. The Ubiquiti stuff linked above is a fantastic solution. The Spectrum provided modem will work fine, regardless of the tier you subscribe to

The 400/20 tier will probably get you an Arris TM1602 which is an absolute piece of trash as it uses the Puma 6 chipset. Read more about that here;

https://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/consumers-file-class-action-lawsuit-against-arris-for-defective-cable-modems-300433510.html

If you do sub to the 400/20 tier, I then suggest picking up your own modem, specifically, the Netgear CM600 as it does not use the Puma 6 chipset, but rather, a Broadcom BCM3384 and is an 'approved' modem by Spectrum.

The base tier as well as the Gig tier with Spectrum will get you a satisfactory modem at no additional cost.

Milwaukee has been activated as a "Gig" market for Spectrum, and has been for 4 months or so.

This means a speed of 940/35 is now available for most--if not all of the area. The gig tier does require a $200 technician visit as well as a Spectrum provided modem. Customer owned modems are currently not being provisioned for the gig tier. The Spectrum modem is a Technicolor TC4400, but there is no monthly charge for using the Spectrum provided modem.

u/cosmos7 · 3 pointsr/homelab

Ubiquiti APs are straight-up the best you can get in that price range, as well as ranges above it. I've found that a single AC-Pro will be able to provide the same coverage that two lesser APs could when properly located.

If you like the Unifi control plane then yes the USG and switches make sense, although you will pay for it. Personally I like the greater control and flexibility of something like the EdgeRouter line, and the ER-X just rocks for smaller installations due to the price.

u/fdjsakl · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

You can either get a router that works with openWRT and install a bandwidth monitor such as wrtbwmon on it, or get a router such as an edgerouter that also has the capabilities to do bw monitoring.

u/km_irl · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

> Ubiquiti Edgerouter X

I had no idea these things were so cheap. However if you want to do gigabit Internet it's not up to the task according to some reviews I've read. Still, I'm sure it's fine for 95% or more of home users and I would not hesitate to buy one if I were in the market.

u/epyon22 · 3 pointsr/pcgamingtechsupport

It can be inconsistent. I've found moca adapters over coax to be much better. I got the high end ones that can do a full gigabit but that's probably over kill for only gaming so you can go with the slower ones. A long Ethernet cable is probably going to be your cheapest most reliable option.


These are the ones I have:
[Actiontec Bonded MoCA 2.0 Ethernet to Coax Adapter, 2 Pack] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013J7O3X0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yXxCybMS7Y46V)

u/Calmiche · 3 pointsr/DirecTV

Correct information. The DECA's are 100mb devices, under ideal conditions. 4k video on the DirecTV system pulls about 50mb per second. There's no need for them to be faster.

There are faster ones, but since you need more bandwidth, you can't have a satellite signal on the same line.

https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200K02/dp/B013J7O3X0/ref=pd_sim_147_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=1ZBFVTNC0BKZZ019H7BQ

However, these devices can interfere with your cable modem. It's better to use a straight through piece of coax, rather than one that's tied into your coax splitter.

u/kmlweather · 3 pointsr/Fios

Based on some DSLReports users giving me some advice - it looks like I may have FiOS run ethernet only to the primary router (it's most important that one receive the gigabit service. And use these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013J7O3X0?ref=emc_b_5_t at the existing coaxial drops for the other routers - those are not as important to get the full gigabit.

u/rehehe · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

I have a house with several buildings and the stucco construction (with chicken wire in the walls) screws up most signals.

Of everything I have (wifi, rf, etc) my 4 Lutron Smart Bridge Pros are the best at connecting to devices over distance. It's really impressive.

I do use plug in dimmer to reach to a Serena shade that was having intermittent disconnection issues. You can have one dimmer as an extender per smart bridge.

Another useful trick is positioning the hub more centrally. I don't have ethernet cable in my walls, but I do have coax to around 10 locations. I use MoCA 2.0 adapters to do coax to ethernet throughout the house. I'm not sure what real world speed they top out at, but I can max my fiber (around 600 up and down) over the coax, so I'm happy. I mainly use them as a wired backhaul for my Velop mesh wifi, but I have one in a location just for a Lutron Smart Bridge.

u/BadBoiBill · 3 pointsr/linuxquestions

As long as you stay away from no-name Chinese stuff it should be fine. I recently bought this TP-Link for $10.

It worked with my settings as soon as I plugged it in, the speed is great, and though my WAP is sitting on my desk, I can connect and get good speed from the WAP in my wife's office completely on the other side of the house.

u/tunaman808 · 3 pointsr/AskTechnology

Bluetooth is Bluetooth. They should work with anything that supports Bluetooth, be it a phone, tablet, laptop or desktop. I've had a few pairs of BT headphones, and they've always "just worked" with all my devices.

If you're using a desktop without built-in Bluetooth, you'll need something like this USB dongle. I don't know how well this particular model works, but it's the #1 seller on Amazon.

u/socomseal93 · 3 pointsr/WindowsMR

This is the one you want. It’s recommended by Microsoft. It’s cheap and works perfectly.

Plugable USB Bluetooth 4.0 Low Energy Micro Adapter (Windows 10, 8.1, 8, 7, Raspberry Pi, Linux Compatible; Classic Bluetooth, and Stereo Headset Compatible) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ZIILLI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ioBHAb46MKERV

u/ErantyInt · 3 pointsr/RetroPie

Yessir. This is the one I'm using:

Plugable USB Bluetooth 4.0 Low Energy Micro Adapter (Windows 10, 8.1, 8, 7, Raspberry Pi, Linux Compatible; Classic Bluetooth, and Stereo Headset Compatible) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ZIILLI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_olu-zb9DH6G8DP

And here's how to disable the onboard Bluetooth:

https://discourse.osmc.tv/t/disable-rpi3-internal-bluetooth-device/15760/2

You're adding this line to your /boot/config.txt

dtoverlay=pi3-disable-bt

u/watchthenlearn · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

This was my fear and still is.

For me it was a painless process. Simply bought a 4.0 dongle from Amazon and plugged it into the USB 3.0 slot of my Win10 machine. I didn't even need to manually install a driver as Win10 did that for me. Clicked on the Bluetooth icon in the app tray and paired to the board. I've tried resetting and shutting down my comp multiple times now to see if it would have trouble pairing again and no issues so far.

The 'fn+f#' keys work great too without having to mess with any settings/drivers. ie play/pause works with Spotify, vol +/-, Win Lock etc...

I'll let you know if I come across anything. Did it not work from the beginning?

u/RANDOM_SWAMPERT · 3 pointsr/buildapc
u/shaunm9483 · 3 pointsr/techsupport

Just get a Bluetooth adapter for your PC. They are very cheap and will work just fine.

It sounds to me like your Bluetooth speaker is in pairing mode based on the flashing led and will not work with the USB in that state. If you can enable the USB then you should be all set but it's possible the USB is just for charging.

An example of a BT adapter - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ZIILLI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Rcbtyb4G6XCC1

u/JigglyWiggly_ · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ZIILLI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Is what I use, works great. I've had to go through a few bluetooth adapters and this has been the best one for keyboards/mice/controllers for me. Works fine with the XB1 controller for me.

A lot of the other ones would drop keyboard input or want you to install some software crap. This is just plug n play.

u/dailyskeptic · 3 pointsr/gaming

Plugable
works well with the new Xbox S controller - though I only connect one controller at a time.

u/e39 · 3 pointsr/RetroPie

I'm not sure if you can get your hands on a Raspberry Pi Zero W, but that has on-board bluetooth and wifi. It really cuts down on the clutter.

If not, I use this one on my Pi2. 0 issues.

u/SuprVgeta · 3 pointsr/cemu

I use a DS4 + InputMapper w/ regular bluetooth usb adapter w/ perfect results (this one infact: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ZIILLI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Has worked flawlessly for over a year w/ no signal drops/interruption.

u/ryecurious · 3 pointsr/windows

I went with this one, but it looks like the price has gone up since. I think any with BT 4.0 support will work though.

u/agoia · 3 pointsr/sysadmin

We use TP-Link metal cased switches for our smaller stuff and they work just fine and are pretty cheap. https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-Ethernet-Optimization-Unmanaged-TL-SG108/dp/B00A121WN6/

u/SumoSizeIt · 3 pointsr/applehelp

I agree with getting a gigabit one (it used to be a premium option, but these days it's so cheap to get so you might as well spend an extra pound or two). That said, that particular netgear is kind of costly for what you get. You could just as well get this 8 port gigabit netgear for 21 GBP or this 8 port gigabit TP-Link model for 22 (18 if you get the plastic version).

u/stealer0517 · 3 pointsr/homelab

if you just need more ports just get this.

full gigabit (vs 10/100 on the 3560s), 8 ports which is plenty for what most people do, doesn't use a fuck load of power, and it's like ~23 after shipping

u/b1g_bake · 3 pointsr/homeassistant

that is spot on your issue, two different subnets. You need to let one or the other device be "master" for simpler terms.

​

see if you can put the ISP modem/router combo into something called bridge mode. google your ISP and the model number of the unit along with "bridge mode" to get more detailed instructions. This will basically neuter the routing and DHCP that the ISP unit it trying to do right now. It should only get a WAN IP address from your ISP and pass that on to your Asus router. Now you just make sure that your Asus router is set to DHCP for the WAN. Now all clients will get their addresses from the Asus and will be on the same subnet.

​

You may need to unplug any devices from the ISP device and plug them into the Asus for them to work. If you don't have enough ports just pick up a cheap 8 port switch to take care of your wired clients.

u/A_Water_Fountain · 3 pointsr/techsupport

For internet package, get the best internet-only you can afford (based on actual price and not some "deal" or "promo" pricing). If you do find a good deal/promo pricing, get a recording where a CSR tells you that you will be locked in at this price for X months. If they try to hike the price up on you, play back the recording. If you are out of the promo pricing period and they try to hike up prices even higher than non-promo pricing, you can threaten to leave but you don't really have any fallback if they just say OK and don't transfer you to retention. Based on all the terribad customer support on some ISPs, I'd just record any conversation you have with them.

Don't rent any hardware from them. Pick up this modem if needed, and any name brand router (remember you don't need a dual band router if you don't have any devices that can talk on the 5GHz band).

EDIT: More

Monoprice has good and cheap cables, but anything with high enough ratings will be fine. You'll need Cat5e Ethernet cabling if you want gigabit, but you really should be running 5e/6 even if you don't have gigabit NICs.

For router security, WPA2 on (WPA if no WPA2) with a non-dictionary password, WPS off. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES USE WEP.

u/dfernandes · 3 pointsr/UIUC

You can see which devices are approved from this list.
http://mydeviceinfo.comcast.net/

This one is popular: http://amzn.com/B004XC6GJ0
There is a newer version with more downstream channels, but unless you have bought >172 Mbps internet, there will be no difference.

u/imozmo · 3 pointsr/China

Perhaps there is a way to do this at the Router (instead of individual computers?). This way the VPN is mostly invisible to the members of the team (in that location). For those that work remotely, many VPN clients automatically start and run on computer start-up, making it pretty easy.

In order to get you started I am including links to NewEgg and Amazon's VPN Routers.

Edit: I just discovered that some routers already have VPN built in! This crazy nice router does!

u/Kidron · 3 pointsr/techsupport

As far as a top class router at an awesome price I would recommend this. We use them in all our businesses we support. I can't mention a time the router actually had to be reset for any internet issues where it wasn't the ISP's fault.

u/sandals0sandals · 3 pointsr/hardware

For your modem, I also recommend a Motorola Surfboard modem with DOCSIS 3.0, usually there will be a current model on Amazon will tons of good reviews.

For your router, that will also depend on the square footage you need to cover. They have released 802.11ac routers, but those are so new that there isn't an established "best router" for the money for 802.11ac, and there are already models that have problems, so for now my recommendation is going to be a Dual Band router with the appropriate amount of coverage for your square footage.

1500-2000 SQ. FT Router: D-Link DIR-825 ( http://www.amazon.com/D-Link-DIR-825-Extreme-N-Dual-Band-Gigabit/dp/B001F7HLRC/ )

2000-2500 SQ. FT Router: ASUS RT-N66U ( http://www.amazon.com/RT-N66U-Dual-Band-Wireless-N900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B006QB1RPY/ )

Up to 10,000 SQ. FT Router: Amped Wireless Dual Band Gigabit Router ( http://www.amazon.com/Amped-Wireless-Wireless-N-Gigabit-R20000G/dp/B007M8SGW2/ )

u/Dalzeil · 3 pointsr/pokemongodev

Amazing how many people still have that general model of router...I do some "IT-related-work", and frequently encourage customers to upgrade from these.

The biggest thing with these is that Wireless G has been out of use since around...2009, 2010? And while it says speeds are 54Mbps, that's a max theoretical, and is literally never reached by these devices. Practical speeds are 19-22Mbps.

It seems like your external antenna is helping with range, which would be another one of the pitfalls of wireless G.

Since you've asked for suggestions in some of the other posts on here, I would say if you wanted to upgrade, my recommendation would be a Dual-Band Wireless N (or if you wanted to spend more money, Tri-Band Wireless AC), where you use the 2.4GHz band and your antenna for the POGO players, and the 5GHz band for your personal devices (assuming that your devices have 5GHz capability). And, as others have said, you can use DD-WRT or something similar, and limit the available domains/ports.

Examples - Dual Band Wireless N or Tri Band Wireless AC. I used the Dual Band one for 4 years before I ended upgrading, and it worked great for me.

Awesome on you for wanting to try such an ambitious project!

u/betterusername · 3 pointsr/Hue

I haven't dealt with Windows in a long time, so I'm not sure what bridging looks like now, but it used to be challenging. It's pretty easy on a mac, no idea on Linux (never tried). However, with a decent router, it's easy to get it to run in bridge mode. I have an Asus RT-N66U that I use as a bridge to my tv and Xbox 360.

This is a fairly reliable way to do it, and I imagine most mid-range and up routers, or anything running dd-wrt will support. Search for media bridges also.

u/ballandabiscuit · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Okay, that makes more sense lol. Thank you.

I think I've got all the info I need. At this point I'm just comparing three similar routers:

The one you recommended

This Asus one that's a dollar less

And this Asus one that looks to be the same as the other Asus but is $ cheaper and has 300 less max speed

All three are dual-band so it's just a matter of picking one. The TP-Link one says it has a 2 year warranty and 24/7 customer service so that might be worthwhile. It also has the highest max speed but that doesn't really make a huge difference to me since my internet is capped at 25 anyway. The TP-Link is the most expensive, $17 more than the cheapest Asus one. Hmmm.

u/Stickfigs · 3 pointsr/techsupport

Depending on the version, the hardware of the WNDR3700 is simply outdated. I would consider flashing it with DD-WRT to get the most out of it first.

Otherwise, yea, just get a new router. You're paying for 150Mbps speed, you should invest in the hardware along with it. My go to suggestion is the RT-N66U. Great features for a soho router and a strong 2.4Ghz band. The 802.11ac version is about 20 bucks more.

u/DeletesAccounts0ften · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You're making the issue more complicated than it needs to be. You can indeed just replace the old router with a new one. You only need two if your house is giant and your router is crap. Most people just assume, "I have two stories I guess I need two routers" when in reality they just need a better single router.

I urge everyone to replace the router provided by their ISP. You will see a significant jump in internet speeds. I always recommend the ASUS RT-N66U because I use it myself and my speeds improved significantly.

To install a new router all you have to do is set-up a new network. The router I listed comes with a CD that will guide you through the process, which is very simple.

You don't need a $300 sacrificial alter to cover a 2 story house with six people in it. The one I listed is dual-band so you can use one for mobile devices and the other for PC's as well if you want, or don't. Either way, this is an easy fix.

u/whitemomblackdad · 3 pointsr/cordcutters
u/RaMPaGeNL- · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Im using the TP Link 150Mbps Wireless N Nano USB Adapter (Model No. TL-WN725N)
Link: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN725N-Wireless-Adapter-Miniature/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395410816&sr=8-1&keywords=tl+wn725n

But I must say I tried OpenElec and Xbian, and I only managed to get it working on OpenElec because it worked 'Out-of-the-Box' :)

u/I_AM_Karmanaut · 3 pointsr/techsupport

You have a couple of options: Internal wireless card, or USB wireless card.

there's tons of different brands and price-points, but they essentially do the same thing. If you want to find more, on Amazon or ebay or whatever search "PCI Wireless card' for the internal, and "USB Wireless card" for the USB one.

u/iamofnohelp · 3 pointsr/techsupport

Wireless USB dongle?

Something like this -

TP-Link N150 Wireless Nano USB Adapter (TL-WN725N) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jEf6yb1KGKVK5

u/xelnagatower · 3 pointsr/india

Try Wireless USB Adapter. Simply plug the device into laptop's USB port. The price of 498 right now at Amazon is over priced. You could get it at cheaper price at offline computer shop

u/IIIIIIIIIIl · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

TP-LINK you will NOT find a better adapter.

Mini


Big Boy

u/oozles · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Pretty sure they don't work on power strips, only if directly plugged into the wall.

Also I only paid like $40 for this then another $25 for this. I don't know if that counts as skimping but it wasn't expensive. I've been very happy with them.

u/Flying_Spaghetti_ · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

What you need is a PowerLine adapter.

u/IBYMBYBMYL · 3 pointsr/PS4

If your wifi sucks, and you can't run an ethernet cable from your router, I'd suggest one of these. It's a powerline adapter. Basically, it just uses the electrical wires in your home to send the signal.

u/MusicalDingus · 3 pointsr/halo

He means like these. Plug the adapters into outlets near the router and xbox and use two short ethernet cables to connect them. Although at that price and for how long before you move it's probably not worth it.

u/Spawn_Beacon · 3 pointsr/thelastofus

Ethernet cord goes out of PS4, and goes into adapter

Adapter goes into power outlet

Another adapter goes into another outlet

Ethernet cord comes from the adapter

Ethernet cord goes into router

Karma gets put into my little karmawhore hands.

now go forth

u/warplayer · 3 pointsr/PleX

I just set these up over the weekend in my apartment. I bought the 500mbps kit, and since I'm not in a house I'm not getting the full bandwidth I should, but it was still a great upgrade. With the monitoring software it comes with I see the speeds range from 70-140mbps - loads better than the 40mbps I would average on WIFI.

In a house with good wiring, oh man, these babies would revolutionize your network.

Oh btw the TP Link set is far more afforable than the D Link ones, and from what I've read the performance is on par.

Edit: I forgot to mention, network latency is what is causing your problems with fast forwarding and rewinding over WIFI. These powerline adapters will drop your ping to a very low number and should alleviate the problems you mention.

u/h2ogie · 3 pointsr/GlobalOffensive

A pair of lil boxes with AC prongs on one end and an ethernet in/out on the other. Signal path looks like this:

Modem >> ethernet cable 1 >> powerline adapter 1 >> wall outlet 1 (no extension cords) >> electrical lines >> wall outlet 2 >> powerline adapter 2 >> ethernet cable 2 >> PC

Link to the ones I've been using for a while and have had no issues with.

u/GHONX · 3 pointsr/mildlyinfuriating

Or even a powerline adapter

u/glowinghamster45 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Wireless is always good, but if you've got a ton of space an walls between you and the modem, maybe you could take a look at powerline adapters?

u/Hammer_525 · 3 pointsr/PS4

Just made a post about this myself the other day and I have Comcast as my ISP. Some people recommended me to look into getting a powerline network adapter, and doing some research they've apparently helped a lot of PS4 users with slow internet connection.

This one's going for $30 currently and it seems to be fairly popular with the PS4 crowd, so you may want to check it out: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AWRUICG/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Can't give any feedback myself on it or any other adapter as I haven't purchased one yet, but they seem to be a highly praised method.

u/jsimpson82 · 3 pointsr/funny

I recently helped set this up for someone. It worked well.

We used these:
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AWRUICG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Golden_Taint · 3 pointsr/PS4

Honestly, your best bet is Ethernet powerline adapters. They use the power wiring to transmit from your router, super easy.

u/Pheace · 3 pointsr/Games

I don't even see why you would do the latter, do you have more than one ethernet connection? It's built to work from the router though.

If you're not willing to run a cable from your router to the TV you could consider getting those devices that expand your network through the power network. (basically plug one device in a power socket in the room where the router is and the other in a socket close to where you're going to use the Steam Link (random example)

u/Edheldui · 3 pointsr/Overwatch

Why don't you use a power line adapter? It uses the electric system to bring the ethernet signal around the house.

I have three of them and my siblings and me play online games at the same time without any problems. Here in Italy we have really bad 20 megabits connections and our ping is around 50ms anyway.

EDIT: I use this model.

u/blinkingled · 3 pointsr/techsupport

I was referring to WiFi channels - but that might not help if your router is a problem or you are not getting enough bars.

If you don't mind spending few bucks - I recommend buying a Powerline Adapter like this one .

Basically you get a pair of adapters with Ethernet port each. You plug one adapter in wall power plug near the router and attach a Ethernet cable between it and the router. The second adapter does the same but in the room where your PC is - it basically transmits upto 200Mbps over your power lines. It is hassle free if your house isn't too old.

u/MilesHighClub_ · 3 pointsr/UMD

something like this you mean?

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA2010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00AWRUIY4/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1463407217&sr=8-5&keywords=ethernet+powerline+adapter

I've got one of these in my house. For some reason I didn't think they'd work here, but if they do that's a very reasonable alternative. Thanks!

u/wastingxp · 3 pointsr/xboxone

Powerline adapter is what you would want. Its just plug and use, easy as that, won't cost you no more than $50 also. My modem locates on the first floor and my Xbox sits on 2nd story of my house but thanks to the adapter, my Xbox is now wired in. The only thing is you need to plug the adapters straight into a wall socket, not in a surge or extender. This is the one that I use personally.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA2010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00AWRUIY4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1408842952&sr=8-2&keywords=powerline+adapter

u/checkmarshall · 3 pointsr/GTAV

Agreed. But I got these: TP-LINK TL-PA2010KIT AV200 Nano Powerline Adapter Starter Kit, up to 200Mbps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWRUIY4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_PW-Aub1M4D0MW

u/Nyyarlethotep · 3 pointsr/PS4

You don't even need to spend 50. I'll link the one I have below. I love this thing! When I used to work tech support for Square-Enix, I used to recommend powerline adapters all the time. Basically in layman's terms, powerline adapters run your internet signal through the wiring in your house. You plug one side in by the router and plug it in via an Ethernet cord, then you plug the other adapter by your ps4 and hook it up via Ethernet. I jumped from like 15 mbps to 40. It requires zero set up other than that. I even have mine running to another router I have on my desk, so I have great wireless signal in my room. The ps4 unfortunately has the same wireless card as some of the Windows tablets. It was a huge step down from the ps3.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA2010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00AWRUIY4/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1416115267&sr=1-2&keywords=powerline+adapter

u/chapel_py · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Your build is amazing, the only issue i see here is from the 'Wireless network adapter'. Think about it, you have this workhorse of a PC that can do anything, play any game, render/compress anything. However we are throttling it by purchasing a cheap $10.00 'WiFi USB Adapter'. If you plan on playing games you need a hard line connection, if you cannot get a hardline connection from your PC to your Router, use this: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA2010KIT/dp/B00AWRUIY4/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1500930653&sr=1-3&keywords=powerline
Its called a "PowerLine" its the middle of the road between WiFi and a hard-line connection, its easily your best bet,

Here is a video explaining what a "PowerLine" is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sue1Zvmh8JA

u/elichondo · 3 pointsr/pcgaming

> My folks doesnt want me punching holes in their newly built house.

If you get AT&T and they have to bring a new line inside the house, they'll have to drill whatever holes they need AND you would need to run an Ethernet cable from the AT&T modem into the attic, and then into the wall into your room and you'd have to cut a hole into the wall and patch the cable in, well if you want ethernet. I had to do something similar for a friend's apartment and put one of these in the wall: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F15CKQQ/

OR you can buy some powerline adapters and see if that works to bring internet to your room. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA2010KIT/dp/B00AWRUIY4/

Running ethernet cables in the attic is much easier in a 1 story house, you just have to watch your footing and only step on the rafters, otherwise you'll fall through the ceiling. If you're in a 2 story house then good luck, not happening.


Powerline adapters are probably your best bet.

u/TheLastOne0001 · 3 pointsr/PS4

You could always try a power line adapter

Here is the one I use

u/obscureEraser · 3 pointsr/PS4

I had the same problem. I bought a Powerline adapter, specifically this one. It's the best thing ever if your router is in a different room.

u/koalificated · 3 pointsr/PS4

Get these: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA2010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00AWRUIY4/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1422128425&sr=1-2&keywords=powerline+adapter

You hook one up to an outlet by your PS4 and another in an outlet by your router, connect the ethernet cables and then you've got a wired connection without having to run a 100 ft ethernet cable across your house. I couldn't play with my friends on Destiny using wifi a few months ago, but then I got these and they work great.

u/RebaBurrito · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

If you're able to, I'd recommend using a powerline adapter. It's essentially allowing for a wired connection through outlets.
I use it because I'm so far from my router and went from ~10 on wireless to the ~20 I'm paying for.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AWRUIY4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500433377&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=tp+link&dpPl=1&dpID=41UExpKbEkL&ref=plSrch

u/pmarascal · 2 pointsr/buildapc

This can be a very frusterating endeavor depending on many many different variables. To be honest, if Verizon will really run ethernet through your wall correctly for just $75, I would do that 10 times out of 10. Should be no hassle, and you'll never have to worry about it again. I used to have ethernet run throughout my house and I miss it so so much.


When I moved I have had nothing but trouble with my wifi. I live in an old city with brick houses, meaning there's 20+ networks in range at all times and apparently the old brick just kills with interference. I went out and bought a great $180 dual band router and still barely helped. Connection would be fine and fast but every 10 minutes huge ping spikes, certain hot times of day wifi would basically slow to a crawl. Wifi is unreliable if you game at all.

What ended up working for me was these TP-Link Powerline adapters. I was really hesitant, but they really do work my friend. When connected the ping is great and there are no random drops for me. The only problem I've had is occasionally the internet will go out and I need to unplug and plug into a different outlet. This hasn't happened while in use for me so it's not a big deal, it's more of a I just woke up and noticed it after my PC was off all night. But I am actually running through my surge protector which they say not to do... so that's probably my problem lol.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AWRUICG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/PMMEURTHROWAWAYS · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

This motherboard doesn't have a build in wireless adapter, but you might want to use some powerline adapters instead of wireless, such as these

u/grey_sky · 2 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

Get a powerline. They are two tiny boxes with ethernet ports on the edges and plug directly into your wall socket. One goes into your router the other into the device you want to use internet on. It uses the preexisting electrical wiring in your house to transmit internet between the boxes.

Hardcore gamer and HD stream watcher with 0 issues here and I am about 200 feet away from my router that is upstairs behind multiple walls/floors. I have been streaming 1080p with 0 issues for the past few weeks.

Amazon Link to the ones I use

u/jollymonsa · 2 pointsr/ScryptMiningRigs

Id go with a powerline adapter over the other items mentioned, and avoid driver issues and location issues. You dont need a fast one for miners. 200 Mbps would be perfect like this one.

u/ilpazzo12 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AWRUICG/
You can make amazon links shorter in this way, the important part is the one written in capitalist letters " B00AWRUICG" anything after it can be deleted. Not finding the long ones annoying, but this is useful if you want to save/send a link of these

u/tjberens · 2 pointsr/uverse

I don't think you can run multiple modems on a single phone line, there'd be too much interference. I'd try a powerline ethernet adapter. There are models with wifi if you need that extended, but this looks like a good basic model: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AWRUICG/

u/Hudbus · 2 pointsr/Steam

Correction, it has 3 USB ports. (And a hub, such as this one work great.)

Also, in my case, with the router being on the other side of the house, I used a couple of these to get it hooked up through the CAT5 (or Ethernet) port.

I've had no problems since.

u/Heartless_Carpet · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Heya! Sounds like I have a situation similar to yours. My room is on a separate breaker from my router and these are the results I get:

Computer on powerline adapters: http://imgur.com/L0C7WwQ

Computer connected directly to router: http://imgur.com/iU9bqQb

I use these adapters.

I don't have great internet speeds, so the difference in up/down speeds across the powerline adapters is more or less margin of error differences.

As you approach the theoretical 500mbps advertised speed, you WILL see performance differences when using powerline adapters.

However, as far as gaming is concerned: raw up/download speeds are not a concern, and ping seems to be unaffected.

Edit: an important thing to note - you should plug these directly into a wall and not into a surge protector and definitely not a UPS. Both of these will cause interference with the signal and should be avoided if possible.

u/Theupixf · 2 pointsr/breakingmom

Have you tried power cycling the router and modern?

I know you've goggled it, but have you tried the steps listed on this site: http://www.incrediblelab.com/fix-dns-probe-finished-no-internet-error-fixed/ ?

I've had it happen before, but it's possible that the wireless receiver on your desktop may be shot. And instead of a long Ethernet cable, maybe try something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AWRUICG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473878855&sr=8-1&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=tplink+powerline Yes it's more expensive but as long as you plug them into an actual wall outlet you can have your modem/router/switch in a completely different area of your house than your computer. It's lovely.

u/matfantastic · 2 pointsr/xboxone

This is what I'm using. No complaints so far and the price was pretty good.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AWRUICG/ref=redir_mdp_mobile

u/Flammy · 2 pointsr/AskTechnology

If you can't run an Ethernet cable, a great option for many is an Ethernet Bridge. An Ethernet Bridge has two ends, one near your router, plugged in via ethernet cable, and the other near the TV. The two boxes send the signal thru the existing power lines of your house.

I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AWRUICG/ but there may be a cheaper / newer / whatever option out there.

Note this won't work for all houses, but personally, I've never had an issue. If you have multiple power circuits (like multiple breaker boxes in different locations) that could be a sign this won't work.

u/DowneasterJC · 2 pointsr/PS4

Try these.

I went from 2Mbps/300kbps over wifi to 25Mb/5Mb over these. Still not as good as a direct connection, but much better than wifi. Everyone I talked to said they wouldn't work in my old apartment because the wiring was probably too old, outlets not on the same circuit, etc., but I tried them anyway and they worked like a charm after ~30 seconds spent plugging them in.

u/Jayahh · 2 pointsr/Overwatch

Bro these things are amazing. I have this one. Can't go wrong. Just make sure to unplug it and plug it back in every few days to flush the lines. Otherwise its a godsend. Pure sorcery though. Whoever thought of the ability to send internet through powerlines.. sorceror.

u/HoundLine · 2 pointsr/hockey

TP-Link AV600 Nano I use these, for a more direct connection through the power lines and would recommend.

u/NintendoNoNo · 2 pointsr/buildapc

/u/velvet_thorns

I second this. Bitwit made a video on these and they appear to work great. Here is the link to the ones he used in his video.

u/machinehead933 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I've used these and they worked out well for me. I will be completely honest though - when I bought them it was because they were one of the cheaper options and had pretty good reviews on Amazon. I did like, zero research.

u/Bilal_AG · 2 pointsr/RecRoom

Servers are currently in North America. We are working on expanding them to other regions of the world.

You should have very good ping. One thing we experience all the time is that 2.4ghz wifi interferes with the headsets. I suggest try cabled connection or 5ghz wifi.

In my house I switched to powerline adapters and things are working much better. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AWRUICG/

u/ForeverUnclean · 2 pointsr/PS4

I got this one from Amazon a couple months ago and it's made a huge difference:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AWRUICG/

u/Gman1957 · 2 pointsr/PS4
u/Devuh · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If you're going wireless because an Ethernet wire cant fit between the PC and router, don't go wireless. Get this instead. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AWRUICG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1418694128&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

u/Naminaro · 2 pointsr/RecRoom

Well I bought a wireless Ethernet cable thing so I could plug my computer into the router. After I did that it was smooth sailing I forget what it's technically name was but once I get to my computer I'll link it

Edit: Here we go https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AWRUICG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/lance- · 2 pointsr/needadvice

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AWRUICG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1420549594&sr=8-1&dpPl=1&dpID=31IYBNuPwFL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

The AV200 capacity ($30) should be plenty. I used this to hook up my Xbox and it works very well. I'm not sure how your home power has to be setup, but for me it was as simple as plugging in the first box to the router/power downstairs, plugging in the second to the power outlet in my room, and running a short cable.

u/Hollow_down · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Ethernet offers a lower latency connection,your router)modem will be able to feed data to it faster. This can be the difference between your connection and someone elses Netflix stream. If the router can push data to your system before the WiFi connection it generally will. Also with Wi-Fi you will be introducing interference from all nearby cell phone, game consoles, neighbor's wifi, microwaves, radio signals. So for stationary systems I always recommend a Ethernet connection. For portable systems Wi-Fi is extremely convenient. If you are unable to get a wire from your router to system I recommend a power line connection. These use your homes wiring as a Ethernet connection and work surprisingly well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AWRUICG/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1501974209&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=plc&dpPl=1&dpID=31IYBNuPwFL&ref=plSrch

u/Adam-K · 2 pointsr/PS4

Just try to get it wired. Maybe look into a Powerline Adapter

u/1new_username · 2 pointsr/techsupport

You could try powerline ethernet adapter like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AWRUICG/

If the plug where your room is and the plug where the router is are in the same circuit, it should work great, if not it may be hit or miss.

Other than that you next best bet is to try to improve your wifi with a better access point.

Something like this will be better than most ISP provided routers

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002YETVXC/

Or something like this should really cover a lot of area

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HXT8S9G/

u/TaedusPrime · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If your modem has 4 available Ethernet ports then it's probably a modem/router combo. A normal modem only has one port.

If you don't wanna move anything you can buy a cheap 4-5 port network switch and plug it into one of your router ports to expand it and use one of the ports on that switch for the adapter.

I prefer just using the PowerLine kits to get a good wired source to where you need it then plugging a access point into that. Wireless extenders are only as good as your existing wireless signal which in your case seem poor in that area.

Here's an idea of parts to get a reliable wireless signal to another side of house.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004UBU8IE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481239630&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=access+point&dpPl=1&dpID=41poupiCvrL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FNFSPY/ref=pd_aw_fbt_147_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=C3PA3MS98K61AQAC2BMP

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AWRUICG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481239732&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=powerline+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=31IYBNuPwFL&ref=plSrch

5 port switch to your router, from the switch to the PowerLine adapter. From the other powerline adapter in your target room/area to the access point. Then setup the access point and name it "Other side of house wifi" lol


This should give you a great full bar wifi source without uprooting your existing setup.


u/ellessidil · 2 pointsr/Diablo

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AWRUICG

I use the one port but the two port version might be better for you. You could also go with a higher model that supports up to 1200Mbps if needed, but for most applications the linked model should work fine.

u/Dai_Kaisho · 2 pointsr/PS4

if there are no ethernet outlets nearby, try a powerline adaptor. much cheaper than setting up a 2nd router/modem

I've used these for years. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AWRUICG

only downside is it can trip a breaker in some newer buildings

u/L-E-iT · 2 pointsr/heroesofthestorm

You can look into a device called a "Power Line Adapter". Its a device that will run your wired connection through the power line in your apartment. I seem to max out on 40Mb/s on mine, but I am not sure of the exact speeds I purchased as I cant check since i'm at work. Since it is not just an ethernet cord, it can be moved around the house, and it plugs into any power outlet that you have.

I imagine latency is your biggest issue you are facing, but to be honest I don't have a big issue with these impacting my ping time at all. Its something to look into.

Quick Edit: http://amzn.to/1YU7IqU Here is a link to the one I own. It comes in a few varieties if you need something specific with it. Hope it helps!

u/LocalTech · 2 pointsr/computers

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AWRUICG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1449729777&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=ethernet+over+power+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=31IYBNuPwFL&ref=plSrch

This one will work fine, honestly most power line adaptors will work for you. Be sure to order from somewhere that offers returns. You'll need to be sure that both adaptors are plugged into the same wall circuit. The only way to check without trial and error with the adaptor is by flipping fuses with something like a lamp plugged into each outlet you intend to use. If you flip a breaker off and both lamps turn off they are on the same circuit.

u/BLToaster · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

They're pretty damn neat. But from what I understand it utilizes your house's electrical grid to route the signal through. It was the clear winner vs. wifi for my household. We had 1 powerline sending signal to 3 others upstairs and worked like a charm before hardwiring our PCs directly to the downstairs router.

We've had two separate ones, the TP Link AV500 and the TP Link AV1000. Honestly I'm not sure if there was a difference so I'd probably recommend just getting the AV500. We only went up to the AV1000 when we added on the third person.

Setup is super simple, plug the one adapter to an outlet by the router, and connect the two via ethernet. Then plug the other adapter into an outlet near whatever device (PC, 2nd router, etc) you want to connect, and they'll pair. I believe there may be a button to press.

u/piraten00dles · 2 pointsr/DIY

If wifi isn't your thing, why not just use these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AWRUICG/ref=psdcmw_1194444_t2_B001AGM2VI

u/yllanos · 2 pointsr/appletv
u/ThatCSGOGuy123 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

dont get that awful wifi usb thing. Get this http://amzn.com/B00AWRUICG

the R9 380 is better and cheaper than the 960 but requires about 80w more power

For the motherboard get this MSI Z170A Pro and use the money you saved to get an i5-6600k

u/Ps4_and_Ipad_Lover · 2 pointsr/PS4

this one looks good [here] (http://amzn.com/B00AWRUICG)

u/StandingBehindMyNose · 2 pointsr/splatoon

I see... you might be able to see an improvement by getting a wired connection to the router if it's possible. I'm not sure you'll see a difference if Splatoon 2 handles its networking differently.

You could also try something like a power line ethernet adapter but depending on the age of the house and how noisy other equipment is that may give you mixed results.

I would try running a speedtest over wifi from the same location as the Wii U. What results do you get? Would you be able to plug a laptop directly into your router and disable wifi, and try running the speedtest again? Then we can compare the results and see if wifi quality is the problem or if the internet coming into the house is slow. I'm not convinced that the problem is on Nintendo's end but there might be some things you can try with your existing equipment.

u/Deadmeat553 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

A good Powerline adapter is only about $30. You can get one here.

I use one and I can promise you that it's worth it.

u/smashadages · 2 pointsr/PS4

1. For fear of advertising my own thread... you may find these tips useful on improving your PS4 speeds. I basically had the same problem as you. I was getting 42 mbps download wired on my macbook and about 5 mbps wireless. The PS4 was getting maybe 20 mbps wired and 4 wireless. (Both wireless devices were about 10 yards from my router.) I vastly improved my speeds with the tips from my post. Hope that helps!


2. Since then, I've done two things because I had a little money to spend ($150 to be exact). I bought a new router to improve my speeds to my wireless devices and I bought a wireless bridge to my PS4. I'm now getting about 30 mbps on my PS4 when I was only getting 4 to begin with.


So #1 helps if you have no money to spend and #2 helps if you have some. If anything, I recommend just buying the $30 wireless bridge because it gives you a wired connection.

Good luck!

u/bushypornfromthe80s · 2 pointsr/VOIP

One thing that I think could work for you is using one of these. Plug one in near your router and plug the other one where ever you'd like to put the MagicJack.

u/DirtyDurham · 2 pointsr/EtherMining

I would suggest using your office and just get a cheap powerline adapter (like this one). The miner will double as a space heater while you work, plus you can keep an eye on it all day in case it ever has a hiccup and stops mining

u/RobertCrewneck · 2 pointsr/xboxone

That’s exactly what it’s for. There’s two. You can plug one in downstairs and the other in your room.

this is the one I got.

u/SykoEvil · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

TP-Link AV200 Nano Powerline Adapter Starter Kit, up to 200Mbps (TL-PA2010KIT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWRUIY4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_e-ZaAbWNSQA1P

u/Barboron · 2 pointsr/ffxiv

If you are in an area with a bad signal and have access to the ethernet ports on your router (assuming it's not in a shared area with other people, i.e. other residents) then you could consider getting a powerline adaptor

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA2010KIT/dp/B00AWRUIY4/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1510938277&sr=1-4&keywords=powerline+ethernet

You plug one into the wall near your router and the other into the wall near your PC and run a cable to each. That's assuming your router is still working and it's just the wifi gone on it.

u/v-_-v · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Well if you already have an ethernet cable laying around and if it is just a bit short, you can get another cable of the same type (ethernet) and a ~conjunction jack~ so you can extend it (just google "ethernet female female").

Also, not sure what you call expensive, but there are some that go as low as 30 bucks: TP-Link AV200

u/IByrdl · 2 pointsr/CableManagement

Two come in the box.Plug one into the router and the wall by the router, plug the other one in at your destination, they pair up with the press of a button on each. Bam, ethernet cable speed minus ~3Mb/s. Limited by the speed rating which will be listed when you buy one. It's basically magic.

Here's the one I'm using.

u/arcticfox00 · 2 pointsr/vita

Yo: [Powerline adapters]

Plug one into an outlet near your router, plug one in near your PS4, connect a cable to each, and you're done. It uses the circuits in your home to carry the signal, basically. One of the coolest things ever, IMO.

u/LzTangeL · 2 pointsr/buildapc

My advise? Don't use wifi. Use Powerline. You plug an ethernet cable from your router to your wall and vise versa to your computer and its like having a wired connection from across the house! Works wonders

u/thatgermanperson · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

There are different options available. Here are two common and useful options:

  1. A long cable running from your PC to the router. As far as I know maximum cable length for Ethernet is something like 90m (180ft). For longer distances you'd need something repeating (strengthening) the signal. It would be the cheapest solution.

  2. A Powerline Adapter is another good option. They send the signals over the power line in your walls. Simply connect one of those to your router via Ethernet cable and plug it into the power outlet. Connect the other device to a power outlet in your room and connect it via Ethernet to your PC. Of course that's only going to work if the power lines in your house aren't completely separated.
    There are different models available. The model I linked to has a single Ethernet port (which would be enough). You could also buy a model that offers WiFi and Ethernet. So you could have your own WiFi hotspot in your room and also best connection via Ethernet.
u/Rage_Boner · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Here's a simple $50 solution...


http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WR841N-Wireless-Router-300Mpbs/dp/B001FWYGJS/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1415638608&sr=1-3&keywords=access+point


http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA2010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00AWRUIY4/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1415638665&sr=1-2&keywords=powerline+adapter



Configure the new router to run in Access Point mode. Setup the network on it to the same subnet as the main router. eg. 192.168.1.1. Set the device static ip to an unused static ip of the main subnet. eg. 192.168.1.2.


Set the wireless SSID and password to the same as the main router, and use a different wireless channel from the main router. 


Plug cat5 cable into powerline adapter and LAN port on main router. Plug the other powerline into wall on other side of house and connect cat5 to LAN port of the Access Point. 


u/TheGeorge · 2 pointsr/DIY

aha there are ways.

Plug socket ethernet, reportedly they are excellent. Here's one at 500 Mbps

And I can't find a review for USA but PC Advisor UK are ok

u/Derlique · 2 pointsr/homesecurity

You can use a Powerline Adaptor for this situation, they use your electrical wiring to send an Ethernet signal from one end to the other.

TP-Link AV200 Nano Powerline Adapter Starter Kit, up to 200Mbps (TL-PA2010KIT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWRUIY4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9TFrzbAPJKC6V

u/kokolordas15 · 2 pointsr/CabaloftheBuildsmiths

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AWRUIY4/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010Q29OW6/ or this if you want passthrough

Budget for windows is hard to get.You can drop the ram to 8gb and the build will still do fine.The 30 dollars saved can go for a license from /r/microsoftsoftwareswap .Mechanical keyboard is also somewhat out of budget unless you avoid paying any money for windows.


PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1400 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $159.99 @ B&H
Motherboard | ASRock - AB350M-HDV Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $67.98 @ Newegg
Memory | GeIL - EVO POTENZA 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $93.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.99 @ B&H
Video Card | MSI - GeForce GTX 1050 2GB Video Card | $103.99 @ Amazon
Case | Rosewill - FBM-05 MicroATX Mini Tower Case | $27.79 @ Amazon
Power Supply | EVGA - 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $44.89 @ B&H
Keyboard | AZIO - L70 Wired Gaming Keyboard | $19.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $568.61
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-24 05:16 EDT-0400 |

u/FlabsWereGhasted · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

I do not recommend that PSU. It's not a very reputable company for psu's. General rule of thumb is that you never want to go cheap with a psu. I would stick to companies like EVGA, Corsair.

The RAM should be fine.

Instead of a wireless adapter, might I recommend a power line adapter?
I have been using this for around 2 years now and I have had 0 problems with lag/speed.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA2010KIT/dp/B00AWRUIY4/ref=lp_1194444_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1498515817&sr=1-1

u/-m_x- · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

This is the one I'm going to be getting.

u/Arckanum66 · 2 pointsr/PS4

It's the shoddy wifi adapter in the ps4, there's plenty of people complaining about this same issue, the only way to fix it if you can't run ethernet cable, is to buy a powerline adapter kit
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWRUIY4/ref=twister_B00E58AUYE

u/Bort_Glingus · 2 pointsr/buildapc

That is no problem I'm here to help let me know if you need me to clarify anything for you. So if the problem with connecting your PC to the internet via an ethernet cable is router placement then that is no big deal. It is actually a super simple fix and you don't have to relocate anything. I currently am using a powerline adapter on my setup because of where my PC is in relation to my router. Just in case you didn't know this is how the powerline adapters work. The wires inside an ethernet cable are made of copper. The wires in the walls inside your house are made of copper. What a powerline adapter does is it takes the signal from your router and sends it over these copper wires inside your walls. On the other end you have another powerline adapter that receives the signal from the powerlines and sends it to your PC. It is very simple and easy to set up and will provide you with the full wired connection. To set them up all you do is plug the included ethernet cable into the first powerline adapter then the other end of that same cable into your router. Then you plug it into a wall outlet near your router. Next you do the same with the other adapter but plug it into your PC. (It's been a little while since I've installed mine so please read the instructions that come with it they are very easy to follow). Then I believe you just hit the pair button on them and they work. The setup literally takes less than five minutes. The best part is there is absolutely no configuration.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA2010KIT/dp/B00AWRUIY4/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1499525028&sr=1-3&keywords=powerline+adapter

This is the exact model that I'm using it's on sale right now for $25 dollars. There is only one slight problem that I've ever run into with them. Every so often, and I mean very rarely like once a month they will unpair. You will lose internet connectivity when they do but all you have to do is unplug the unit that is connected to your PC and plug it right back in that will fix the problem 99 out of 100 times. Hope this helps! Please don't hesitate to ask questions or for clarification if you don't understand something I am more than happy to help.

u/cgingue123 · 2 pointsr/AskTechnology

You could get an ethernet over power adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA2010KIT/dp/B00AWRUIY4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1500392098&sr=8-3&keywords=ethernet+over+power

Plug it into your wall, give it an ethernet cable and it "pulls" to the other side, an ethernet cable out of that into the PC and bam, ethernet-esque speeds

u/LazarusRizen · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

If your distance is too great to run a dedicated hardwire from the router to the Steam Link, I'd spend an extra ~$40 getting a powerline adapter like this

u/seredin · 2 pointsr/homelab

I currently do pretty much exactly what you're planning. One "mother" powerline adapter receiving ethernet from my router and plugged into the wall in my living room on the main floor, and two "children" powerline adapters on opposite ends of the basement / garage level. The mother and one child (the child unit which has the higher traffic) is this kit:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010S6SFDE/

The other (less traffic) child is an older model TP-Link that is one half of the predecessor of this kit (the other half died after 6 years of use) and is connected to an AP:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA2010KIT/dp/B00AWRUIY4

It works well. Depending on your ISP / plan rates, they could be the limiting factor in your network. I rarely transfer files across the powerline so I don't have transfer rates for you, but I do regularly stream off both children and have only experienced stability issues once, when the dead half of the older kit was dying (blown capacitor).

But the point of my post is that yes, a single mother can feed multiple children. I wouldn't get too carried away with adding children because of bandwidth sharing, but the stability should be there for lower traffic considerations. My internet plan is only 150Mbps down, and I know that my powerline adapters are not the rate limiters in my network (except for LAN transfers, which again I only rarely engage).

Happy to help in any way I can.

u/LoveKilledMars · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Don't worry about the downvoters. If you're tight on a budget, TP-Link makes some cheap ones available on Amazon for right around 30 bucks. I've found they last around two years or so before they start to get spotty. Nicer ones last longer, of course, but if money is an issue they work.

Amazon link

u/Feltz- · 2 pointsr/fireTV

You might need to go hardwired. There could be some interference with your wifi. If you don't have ethernet in the room or don't want to run cable, get a powerline adapter. Works great.

u/martindm03 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If you can't go wired, your best option is a powerline adapter. I've never had to use one as I can always wire directly to my router, but I hear it's the best option vs. wireless. Your second best and only other option really is wireless. For wireless, the best option is an internal PCI-E wireless NIC, 802.11 ac to use the 5 GHz band for the best speeds.

u/Dgarey94 · 2 pointsr/OWConsole

i didn't either before two weeks ago, I am really impressed though.i bought one that was capable of 2 G/s which was overkill (unless you stream internally) and i only paid like 80 bucks off amazon. it looks like the 200 Mb/s ones are on prime sale for 25 bucks.

link

u/dstaller · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Powerline Adapters are typically viable solution as long as the two circuits used are on the same panel. Not always guaranteed to have a great signal due to other factors such as funky wiring in some poorly built houses or even older houses, but in my experiences I haven't had any issues. I actually use 3 in my household and get a damn near perfect connection.

Check to see how many electrical panels are used for powering your house, and if it's multiple check to see if the two circuits are on the same panel or not. If they are, here's a nice recommendation for an adapter:

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA2010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00AWRUIY4/

Those should be fine for your speeds since they aren't extremely high. Make sure you plug them into the wall and not a power strip though. Power strips can decrease the quality of the connections.

u/Manodactyl · 2 pointsr/techsupport

usually you have to get the wifi module from the manufacturer as they do not just accept any old wifi adapter. Another option would be to use a wireless to wired bridge. If you are technically inclined this can be done relativly cheaply. Your best bet would probably be using a powerline adapter to get an ethenet port to your blu ray player

u/papervstomatogrenade · 2 pointsr/xboxone

Simply buy a powerline adapter, it’s a shame such a useful device isn’t more commonly known. I have this set that work beautifully.

u/rather_be_a_hobbit · 2 pointsr/PS4

Yes it'll work. No fire. any brand. yes it'll be okay.

TP-Link AV200 Nano Powerline Adapter Starter Kit, up to 200Mbps (TL-PA2010KIT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWRUIY4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xxkVzb8MWJX46

u/Bloodmage391 · 2 pointsr/shittybattlestations

Upvote for powerline, but those are waaaaaaaay more expensive than they need to be. You can get a good set for under $50.

I personally use these, though they're slightly more expensive.

u/nwg442 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

hey man, pro tip: never use wifi if you want a good gaming experience. go with one of these

It allows you to connect to your router through ethernet from anywhere in the house (i'm guessing you chose wifi because you aren't near your router with your PC).

When i made the switch to this guy i never went back, wifi blows for gaming online

Of course, if you can connect it straight to your router, do so, but trust me, wifi fucking sucks

u/besme · 2 pointsr/GirlGamers

This may gain a few "witchcraft!" responses, but I tried wifi with a bluetooth/wifi antenna that screwed into the back of my PC, and it could be pretty unreliable at times. I also used a powerline adapter set up, and it was almost as reliable as ethernet. People couldn't believe it. I bought the kit for something like 25USD and I preferred it over wifi. Might be worth a try.

The card: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I REV Bluetooth 4.2/Wireless AC/B/G/N Band Dual Frequency 2.4Ghz/5.8Ghz Expansion Card https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HF8K0O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VbdVCb97PH2Z9

The powerline adapter: TP-LINK AV200 Nano Powerline... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWRUIY4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/haol · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Replying here so you get to see my correction (PLC not PCL)

For example this

Note: I have no idea how good this specific model is. Just an example.

u/YawnSpawner · 2 pointsr/ReefTank
u/whymeogod · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I just bought a powerline adapter, and it's great. I am on Comcast though and have no need for gigabit adapters, so these ones were much cheaper and works just as well as Ethernet for me.

u/dead_monster · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You gotta be kidding me. There's like ten right now on Amazon for $15 or less. I'm actually using this one right now:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000636JD8?pc_redir=1395581356

And this powerline is only $30: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AWRUIY4/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1395954034&sr=1-3&pi=SY200_QL40

u/hassan07064 · 2 pointsr/thelastofusfactions

They use the wiring in your house to deliver your internet. One kit comes with two plugs. They each have to be plugged directly into the wall. One next to the router and the other next to the playstation. Then it's as simple as connecting the Ethernet cables. It's a no bullshit set up. A monkey could do it. Here's a solid kit if the only thing your connecting us your playstation. Not too expensive. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AWRUIY4/ref=mp_s_a_1_5/181-1842355-4797465?qid=1405818766&sr=1-5&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

u/showbread98 · 2 pointsr/PS4

honestly I couldn't recommend these more.

u/shadowman42 · 2 pointsr/OverwatchUniversity

I had occassionaly issues with lag spikes with a decent rig in my house, and while I was with my family during the summer, I'd have spikes of over 1000ms due to the placement of the router.

I invested in power-line adapters(such as these) and now rarely get above 30ms ping.

Getting a better computer might help you play a bit better, but getting off wifi will help your ping a lot.

u/aleatoric · 2 pointsr/gadgets

I'm using this powerline adapter. I haven't run any speed tests because I haven't really been curious enough to do so. All I know is that I was trying to stream 4K content to my TV in my living room, and my WiFi was too far to handle it well. I heard about one of these powerline adapters and figured I'd give it a shot. The 4K content now streams perfectly. I haven't noticed any hicccups at all. I've only had it for a couple months now but the purchase was definitely worth it and I don't know why I never used this solution before.

The adapter only goes up to 200mbps... which is fine for me because there is no ISP in my area that offers anything above that anyway. Fuck yeah Orlando for letting Telecom companies rule the city.

u/Kryeiszkhazek · 2 pointsr/YouShouldKnow

The powerline adapter works amazing. Don't believe any review that says its difficult to set up. It's not. Hell even if I had good wifi It'd be tempting, if only to free up a USB port lol. Also the powerline adapter I bought TP-Link AV200 is only $30 which is about the same price as most wireless adapters.

Wired beats wireless 99% of the time speed wise. Also, you ain't gonna get 1ms ping with wireless
and here's Another result with a slower upload

Im paying for 25/25 but I'll be the last person to complain about getting more than what I payed for.

u/theicecapsaremelting · 2 pointsr/techsupport
u/KickAClay · 2 pointsr/cordcutters

Gigabit!!! Lucky. Yeah I have a rack full of equipment. the modem is from Comcast, but my router is a NETGEAR Nighthawk AC1900 Dual Band Wi-Fi Gigabit Router

u/2pfspiff · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Buy a better router and you should have no issues. Also try to set the router closer to the bedroom area so the coverage will be better in the back. If it is only you then you wdon't need that much band with. Something like the R7000 would be sufficient.

u/aliencircusboy · 2 pointsr/Android

It's the router. I've had the same Netgear N150 for over four years. Definitely time for a new one. This is the one to get, or at least that I'm planning on getting: NETGEAR Nighthawk AC1900 Dual Band WiFi Gigabit Router (R7000)

u/drnick5 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Ok I get what you're saying now.

If everything is working fine in the theater, I don't think you gain much by moving the cable modem behind there.

One other option, instead or unning a cable, is to use something like these Moca Boxes. This would allow you to create a network connection using your homes Coax cable. (if you've ever used a powerline ethernet box, its a similar idea, you put one box downstairs, and plug into coax, put another box upstairs and hook into coax. both boxes also have a network port and will link together). So in your case, put a moca box near the theater TV, put another upstairs, hook network cable from moca into router/switch downstairs. Upstairs, hook that moca box into the ubiquiti injector, and then hook the injector into the access point. You could try this route first, if it doesn't work, send the MOCA boxes back and then run a cable.

The only time this doesn't work is if you have cable or direct TV, and use a "whole home DVR" which also uses a MOCA connection, as they will likely interfere with each other. (although some have been able to get it to work)

As far as switches, you don't need to spend a lot, I really like the Netgear switches for the price. Something like this should work fine.

u/takaides · 2 pointsr/eero

I have Eeros and am a big fan, but it sounds like you need some hardwired connections. One option that worked well for me was using the preinstalled coax cable in my last apartment. Every room seemed to have coax hookups, and I could run it over the same coax that spectrum was running my internet connection on.

What you'd want is a MoCA adapter (or really, at least 2, one per end) to inject ethernet over coax and then pull it off elsewhere in the house. Had 450Mbps at my Xbox 2 floors away from the modem, and an eero beacon on the other side of the room for wifi devices.

I used these from Amazon with great success. You'd also want to put a high-pass filter on the incoming connection from the street to keep your network private.

As for wiring it up: Modem <--> Eero <--> MoCA <--> Coax Cable (the same one the internet was going to the modem on) <--> MoCA (in another room on a different floor) <--> switch <--> TV, Xbox, Receiver, etc. And the filter on the coax splitter outside coming from the street.

u/GoodOmens · 2 pointsr/Fios

For internet only, ditch the FIOS router and get a pair of bonded devices (e.g., these). The FIOS router MoCa port is limited to ~500mbit. You should hit 850+ with the ones I linked (provided you don't have too many spliters etc).

u/JonPaula · 2 pointsr/buildapc
u/zeta_cartel_CFO · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Regarding the Moca 2.0 - do you have the actiontec bonded Moca 2.0 modules?

Secondly, do you have a splitter on your coax line? Because after removing a splitter from my line and using a direct cable, my speeds jumped to about 800-850 mbps. Before that it was around 500-600 mbps.

u/arkhira · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Yeah they can get expensive. Usually its used by most to bring internet between floors and not to use an adapter in every room.

u/gbrayut · 2 pointsr/geek

The adapters usually include a splitter. So you can still use the same coax lines for Ethernet and cable TV. Also you want to add a MoCA filter on the main line coming into the house, so the internal traffic doesn't leave your home. I got these + the filter in the frequently bought section and they have worked very well on a 100ft coax line out to my garage https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013J7O3X0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QamZBbQBYGYPX

u/brad2017 · 2 pointsr/DataHoarder

I have a MoCa 2.0 bonded and I get 500-600 Mbps thru my gigabit internet connection using speedtest. My powerline got 50-60 so imo MoCa is much better if you can use it.

What I'm using:
https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200K02/dp/B013J7O3X0/

u/onastyinc · 2 pointsr/GoogleWiFi

orbi is a beast on speed, but googles app is better. The app has some downsides, like when the cloud barfed a reset a bunch of our units.

I have my onhub/GW in wired gigabit backhaul mode and it outperms pretty much everything. if i didn't have gigabit backhaul I would have kept orbi.

Another option since you're already using MoCA. Check out these actiontec bonded MoCA adapters you can use that to backhaul GW and potentially get the best of both worlds.

u/FlightyGuy · 2 pointsr/homelab

You just need some MOCA adapters to create a MOCA network. The Adapters have ethernet ports:

PC --- MOCA ===COAX=== MOCA --- PC

https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200K02/dp/B013J7O3X0

How-Tos abound:

https://www.actiontec.com/products/home-networking/ecb6200/

https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-set-up-a-coax-MoCA-network/

u/RolandMT32 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

The house does have coax. I had heard of moca but hadn't really done much research into that. Would it be better to buy some adapters like the ActionTec Bonded MoCA 2.0 adapters or would these passive adapters work okay?

u/zeke009 · 2 pointsr/Tivo

With satellite not being used, check out MoCA. IMO, it is way more reliable than WiFi. They will require a bit of an investment.

​

I bought these a few years ago, they work really well: https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200K02/dp/B013J7O3X0/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=MoCA+adapter&qid=1558476543&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Amazon Search: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=MoCA+adapter&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

​

Prior to the Actiontec devices, I was using some MoCA 1.1 devices from Netgear. If it wasn't for the sale a few years ago, I'd still be using them.

​

If you go with MoCA, you may want this filter at the entry point: https://www.amazon.com/Filter-MoCA-Cable-coaxial-networks/dp/B00KO5KHSQ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=MoCA+filter&qid=1558476808&s=gateway&sr=8-3

u/jibjibjib · 2 pointsr/Comcast

There's multiple options for using your in-wall coaxial for wired networking. The specific option you would use usually depends on what TV provider you are using over that coax

  • If you have cable, you can get MOCA adapters which will send the network traffic over your coaxial cable in a way that does not conflict with your cable TV service.
  • If you have DirecTV, you can get DECA adapters, which are essentially the same thing as MOCA but compatible with the DTV signal on the same cable.
  • If you have an IPTV service like Uverse, you can get HPNA adapters.

    I'll assume you have cable here since we're in the Comcast sub. Setup for each of them is essentially the same though. A MOCA adapter usually has one Ethernet port and two coaxial ports (one to the wall, and one to the TV). If you want to plug in more than one device in your room, you will need to use a switch in that room. Having two coax ports means you can use the wall coax for both TV and networking simultaneously.

    You need at least two MOCA adapters, one in each area you are trying to network. I would expect you would put one in the room where your existing router is, and the other in your room. I have a set of Actiontec bonded MOCA 2.0 adapters that do gigabit over coax, but there are also cheaper older versions that do about 300 mbps. MOCA supports mesh networking too, so if you want to add any additional rooms to your network, just add another adapter to that room, and it will be able to see the other two (or more) rooms.

    Once everything is plugged in, it should just work. There was no configuration I had to do on mine, they just immediately saw each other.
u/LS6 · 2 pointsr/nova

This is way more than $12, but these Have worked really well for me. (4-600mbps range)

Bonus if you have TV is they're backwards compatible with whatever version of MoCA the STBs use so they'll get them online too.

u/zutroy · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I don't believe that will work. You need the moca adapter before the modem. Anywhere it comes out of a wall jack, the first thing it should connect to is a moca adapter.

My setup is coax out of the wall --> moca adapter --> modem

Then ethernet from moca adapter --> router --> modem

This is with these adapters - https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200K02/dp/B013J7O3X0

u/mistur_niceguy · 2 pointsr/xboxone

Actiontec is one of the primary vendors in this area. A few things to keep in mind:

  1. If you have any cable splitters between the two MoCA adapters, you need to make sure they support the MoCA frequency range.

  2. Place a MoCA point of entry filter at the main coax tap coming into your home to block external household MoCA traffic from coming in and interfering, as well as to prevent your MoCA signals from exiting your house.

    A few sample devices:

    https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200K02/dp/B013J7O3X0

    https://www.amazon.com/Filter-MoCA-Cable-Coaxial-Networking/dp/B00DC8IEE6

    https://www.amazon.com/Holland-Electronics-GHS-2Pro-M-Splitter-5-1675Mhz/dp/B00P6VHLP0/

u/good4y0u · 2 pointsr/PFSENSE

There are MOCA adapters, just do a MOCA to Ethernet. I use this (got it cheaper then the listed price...on sale) https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200K02/dp/B013J7O3X0 It works perfectly.

*you want BONDED adapters

You only need ONE MOCA on the pfsense end, I used 1 there and had 3 in other rooms, for a total of 4 MOCA's.

FIOS ONT -> pfSense -> Switch -> MOCA _0 --> [ in wall coax] -> Br1 MOCA -> computer

--> [ in wall coax] -> Br2 MOCA -> Switch -> 4xDevices

--> [ in wall coax] -> Br3 MOCA -> Switch -> 4xDevices

All were getting gig speeds.

​

Even if you used multiple MOCA's on the pfSense end, it would all still be limited by the COAX in the wall, if it didn't conflict.

u/larrylarrington03 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Use MOCA if you can't get Ethernet to the second AP

u/samplebitch · 2 pointsr/techsupport

I did this and it worked well - until I moved the cable modem from one room to another. I've heard the connection/quality of your electrical lines affects the connection, so individual results can vary wildly. I then heard about MoCA - while a little more expensive it works MUCH better. It uses the coax in your house to transmit data. So my HTPC in the living room gets speeds just as fast as being wired to the cable modem directly. I also set up an old router as a repeater so wireless reception is better on that end of the house as well.

These are what I purchased and they work great.

u/porkchopnet · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Professional network engineer here.
Much of the info so far in this thread is correct. Cat5/5a/6 is your best solution for stability and performance, and you can take any one of those 3 standards to 100meters per spec, and practically you can go slightly beyond that if needed. Mesh wireless is cool, but configuration can be intensive. Power line... sucks. Reliability is the biggest killer to me.

But nobody has mentioned MoCA.

If you have FiOS (or similar fiber delivered services), the “backpack” on the side of your house (properly called an ONT) communicates with your router in the house over MoCA which runs over the Cable TV coax. 2.5gigabit, and you can have up to (I think) 26 MoCA bridges on the same channel. About 15 channels available, and every bridge on the same channel is on the same network.

So it’s kind of like your power line adapter, but solid as all hell. If you have coax in all locations, this is the way to go. Bridges are available on Amazon, I just bought two more of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B013J7O3X0/ (yeah that price is a downside).

Here’s more than you ever wanted to know: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multimedia_over_Coax_Alliance

If your internet is cable delivered, you may wish to look at a “MoCA blocker” (also called a low pass filter) to prevent other people in your neighborhood from jumping on your network. If you use FiOS, that’s not a problem.

u/coffeesippingbastard · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

was your house pre-wired for cable TV?

You can use MOCA adapters which seem to be generally have higher throughput and don't have the noise issue you get when running powerline.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013J7O3X0/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687582&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B008EQ4BQG&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1FSV5P4QQ0QY061JXAK1

u/krakenant · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I haven't used consume grade APs in probably 8 years so I have no hands on experience. The what to buy thread in the sidebar suggests ubiquiti which is in the same price range as MikroTik, but a little easier to set up. The basic equivalent to the MikroTik I posted is https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1518904131&sr=1-6&keywords=ubiquiti

u/Tramd · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Well, unfortunately, consumer products suck. You can shell out $300 on a nighthawk router and still experience the same issues. Fuck that shit.

In my experience you have 2 options. Drop the money on an apple airport router (they're great) or drop the money on an enterprise AP (ubuiquiti). You can get a unifi AP for under $200.

If your ISP gives you a router free great, use that. Just disable the wireless and pick up a unifi AP for wireless.

http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Enterprise-System-UAP-AC-LITE-US/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465095973&sr=8-2&keywords=unifi+ap

Please research the model because I have never used the non-pro ones.


Otherwise, pick up the airport for the all in one. You can't go wrong.

u/mindhead1 · 2 pointsr/orbi

If you have the option for wired backhaul and are going to use the Orbi as an access point only, there are cheaper solutions that will yield just as good results.

A couple of these should do the trick in your house. Ubiquiti Unifi Ap-AC Lite - Wireless Access Point - 802.11 B/A/G/n/AC (UAPACLITEUS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7fGxDbDFT10XV

The beauty of the Orbi is how well the wireless backhaul works. Why pay the premium and not use the features?

u/Vorwerkit · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Thanks, Something like this? Any chance you can recommend a product..?

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY

u/GTR128 · 2 pointsr/homelab

You can get an Edgerouter Lite (ERL-3), 2 UAP-AC-Lites, and an unmanaged gigabit switch to stay within your budget easily.

I have ubiquiti products at 2 sites, and have had no issues. Also the AC-Lites use Passive PoE which not all PoE switches have so you will more than likely just get a non-PoE (unless you need it for something else), and run the power injectors.

u/ryeseisi · 2 pointsr/PFSENSE

The AP will probably be the most expensive part to replace.

Unmanaged 8-port desktop switches can be had for less than $30.

A commonly recommended AP is the UAP-AC-Lite which will run about $80. However, the Ubiquiti products need a controller software to manage them. This either needs to come in the form of a "Cloud Key," which is almost another $100, or you would need to run the controller software on a PC. It does not need to be running all the time, only when you want to modify the settings of the AP.

If you currently have an all-in-one device, that can be used as a standalone AP for now to save some money. You would simply disable the firewall and DHCP/DNS Servers on it, and connect one of its LAN ports to a LAN port on your new router or switch.

It is going to be hard to find a device that is all-in-one that runs pfSense, since the WiFi compatibility of pfSense is abysmal. There are other solutions out there that are all-in-one, however most are either consumer/gamer level (think your Netgear Nighthawk and friends), or will be used enterprise equipment. I will let others comment on other possible solutions, as I have no personal experience with them.

u/foodnguns · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

are you getting comcasts phone or are you planing to use voice over IP?

If your getting comcasts phone your options are limited to modems that support it.

If voice over ip,then no restrictions really modem wise.

If your getting comcasts phone,then atleast new, I dont see any modems that can support 400 mbps and voice in your range

If your not getting comasts phone then

Something like

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeRouter-Advanced-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00YFJT29C

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015PR20GY/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_6_w

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-download-960Mbps-XFINITY-CM600-1AZNAS/dp/B06XGZBCKP

plus some cabling should be right around $300

that gets you a cable modem that can support your 400 mbps,a router that can route that fast with 2 open lan ports and an access point for wifi.

You can do 400 mbps over Ethernet on this set up,400 over wifi I imagine would be possible in the very best of conditions.

u/OgdruJahad · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Sounds like your Wi-Fi device is possible faulty, since you are using a five year old device a Wi-Fi dongle like this, or this, is recommended.

u/Montzterrr · 2 pointsr/embedded

you could get something like this.

maybe use some LEDs to indicate movement detection or lights on/off in a room. Maybe store a record to a text file of the times whatever you are tracking was detected.

Maybe get a wifi dongle like this. and have it so you can ssh into the r_pi and monitor the log files? If you are feeling really productive, maybe have the r_pi act as a web server and update a webpage with the data/most recent images so it would basically be a security camera.

Those kind of ideas are what I immediately think of with raspberry pi... but you may want to start a lot smaller. like just detecting movement and lighting an LED since you are just learning C++ now.

u/QNinja · 2 pointsr/linuxquestions

This one works well in Raspbian, both are Debian-based so it would most likely work.

u/Butthatsmyusername · 2 pointsr/PcMasterRaceBuilds

Is built-in wifi compatibility a must? If not, I'd go for the Biostar X370GTN instead, because it has an m.2 slot on the back, and then you could swap out that sata ssd for an m.2 one for the same price.

If you still need wifi, you could get an edimax wifi dongle like this one. I have one of these that I've treated none too well and it still works just fine.

Edit: also, reddit ate your formatting.

u/sailorcire · 2 pointsr/linux

This is the exact one I use. I believe it's a realtek chipset which is super common (especially with rPi unofficially adopting that as a WiFi module of choice).

u/cHy40444 · 2 pointsr/BSD

I found this on amazon https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/ that a lot of people say works with the raspberry pi, so this should probably work with FreeBSD right?

u/DiabloConQueso · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

This one's virtually plug-and-play under Raspbian.

u/bassgirl90 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

how do you know that your phone can connect to the router. Are you browsing website without using cellular data? because if that is the case then your PC's network controller is toast and you need a new network card. If you're on a laptop then you could try using a usb wireless adapter.

u/Cintax · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I used this one and it worked like a charm. Small and out of the way too, so I could plug in a USB mic too without issue.
Edimax EW-7811Un

u/Pseudogenesis · 2 pointsr/RetroPie

I'll second this recommendation /u/EOMFD, buying a wifi adapter makes managing the Pi SOOOOO much easier. I bought this tiny one for $8 and it worked right from the first plug in.

If you have a Windows machine on the same network as the Pi, you can type

\RetroPie
in the File Explorer directory bar and get instant access to the roms, bios and config files on the Pi from the Win machine. You can just drag n drop roms in there. It's so useful.

u/Grixin · 2 pointsr/SurfaceLinux

Another approach for sake of documenting 2018 tips.

I use fedora on a SP3 with no windows. Wifi was spotty and despite all fixes still varied from kernel to kernel. I bought a wifi dongle for 8 bucks. the Edimax nano and since wifi is solid and was plug-and-play. current state post on this subreddit fixes any hibernation workaround stuff.

Everything works as it should with no windows installed. Auto rotate, touch, keyboard snap on and off, and dock all working as expected. Only issue is a small nano dongle in the usb slot. (I use the SP4 type cover and a Bluetooth mouse anyways)

Link to amazon for dongle. currently 7.89 USD

u/26zGnTdCTvvbzacN · 2 pointsr/tails

Not sure, but this is the one I use on my Mac and it works. It comes with a disc but you can install the driver online as well. If you don't find a solution, this is only $8.