(Part 2) Best computer networking products according to redditors

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We found 25,743 Reddit comments discussing the best computer networking products. We ranked the 4,053 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

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Subcategories:

Computer networking hubs
Computer networking switches
Computer networking modems
Computer routers
Computer networking transceivers
Wireless access points
Computer networking device servers
Network print servers
Network adapters
Networking antennas
Wireless range extenders
Modem router combos

Top Reddit comments about Computer Networking:

u/cooleyandy · 104 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Here are all the ingredients, along with sauces to get it.

Raspberry Pi Zero - $5

2 x 8BitDo Zero Controllers - ~$20

USB OTG Hub - ~$1.60

Mini HDMI to HDMI plug - $0.80

32GB MicroSD Memory card $9.99

Almost forgot the Asus Bluetooth Dongle $12.95

You can probably get a cheaper ~$2.00 Bluetooth dongle on eBay if you want to save money. I just happen to have this one from a previous project.

Jaybird Earphone box - $0.00 - I had one in my house. Or buy one and get free earphones :-)

Total cost $50.34 or $39.39 (with cheaper bluetooth dongle)

Threw in Retropie and done.

The one interesting tidbit I discovered along the way is when I plug the micro usb cable into the OTG hub, the Raspberry Pi zero gets powered also. The cheap ass OTG Hub makes its easy to have ports mounted onto the side of the Jaybird box (or whatever box you have lying around, Legos maybe?).

u/KingdaToro · 65 pointsr/HomeNetworking

If you want your stuff to last a long time and be more reliable, get dedicated devices rather than combined ones. A "wireless router" is actually three devices combined into one: router, switch, and access point. The router separates your network from the internet, moves data between them, allows multiple devices to share your single public IP address, blocks unwanted internet traffic from reaching your network, and assigns local IP addresses to devices on your network. The access point does Wi-Fi. The switch connects these together and gives you the multiple LAN Ethernet ports on the back.

These three devices are also available separately. For example, this is a router, this is a switch, and this is an access point. You'd connect the router's WAN port to the modem and the LAN port to the switch, then connect access points and other wired devices to the switch. This has several advantages:

  • The devices are much more reliable as each only does one job, rather than having to juggle three different ones.
  • It's easily expandable. If you need more Ethernet ports somewhere, just add another switch there and connect it to an existing switch. If you need more Wi-Fi coverage somewhere, add another access point there and connect it to an existing switch.
  • Upgrading is less wasteful. If, for example, a new Wi-Fi standard comes out, just get new access points that support it. You can keep your existing router and switch(es). Likewise, if you upgrade your connection speed to something your router can't handle, just upgrade it and keep your switch(es) and access point(s). And if something breaks, you can just replace it and keep everything else.
  • You can optimize the locations of devices. Your router and switch(es) can be put well out of the way, behind other stuff, where their cables will be out of sight. Your access point(s) can be ceiling mounted to provide the best Wi-Fi coverage, with only one Ethernet cable running to them. This cable also powers the AP using Power over Ethernet.
u/dan4334 · 60 pointsr/techsupportmacgyver

Tell your Dad to just spend $12 and get a switch that has 10 times the bandwidth, and doesn't have collision problems a hub has.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-SG1005D-Unmanaged-Gigabit-Desktop/dp/B000N99BBC/

u/BOFslime · 44 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Using a Plugable USB 3.0 Ethernet Adapter (ASIX AX88179 chipset same as the UGREEN), and have had the "Console warm to the touch when connected to ethernet in Sleep Mode" issue since the 5.0 patch. This did not happen prior to that patch. My understanding is that the change in 5.0 that caused this is that the Switch remains connected all the time while in sleep mode, instead of periodically waking for software update checks.

Unplugging the far end ethernet jack and leaving the ethernet adapter connected to the console will correct the issue, and the console will not be warm to the touch in this state. Which seems to suggest the issue is indeed related to the constant connection and update checks, and not the usb adapter itself being powered on while in sleep.

I do not have the other issue OP mentioned, my network switch still shows connected in sleep mode when plugged in, which is why issue #1 is present due to the constant connectivity.
I would like to see the port actually make use of its USB 3.0 hardware capabilities, but this is very minor, and only mildly useful for people with 500Mbps+ internet, and won't help gameplay much if at all, just downloads.

u/MrPerson0 · 43 pointsr/smashbros

Please note that the official Nintendo Switch LAN uses the ASIX AX88179 chipset, which is basically the best one for the Switch to use and the one you should recommend. I would completely ignore the first LAN adapter you linked to, and primarily suggest the second one you linked to, or this one which is a few cents cheaper.

u/Michelanvalo · 36 pointsr/KotakuInAction

Mother boards with WiFi have external antennas (scroll down a bit), they just screw on the back like any other WiFi radio. Bluetooth receivers tend to be no bigger than USB dongle ones but they don't take up a USB slot.

Wifi motherboards do not cost more than using an external card. WiFi LGA1151. Non-WiFi.. The 3 external adapters you linked cost $37, $85 and $108 respectively. The difference between two motherboards is certainly less than $85 for one with and without Wifi.

Additionally, if you notice most of the WiFi enabled motherboards are mini-ITX where space is at a premium. Using built in Wifi is a space saver. Rather than trying to cram another PCI card in your already limited space.

There are plenty of valid reasons to buy a motherboard with built-in WiFi, don't come at me with your bullshit.

u/xXBassMan57Xx · 23 pointsr/homelab

I inherited a 12 RU Mid-Atlantic rack and just had to upgrade some things.

Top to bottom:

u/photoresistor · 22 pointsr/gadgets

I got one of these from Amazon for $52.99 to extend the range from my crappy Verizon FiOS Actiontec router. The big difference is its not a repeater, but a range extender. At best, a repeater can only boost an already poor signal, meaning a slow connection, though stronger, remains slow. The range extender actually extends the wifi network itself.

With the range extender, one end connects to an ethernet port on the router, and gets plugged into a wall socket. The other end can be plugged into any other wall socket in the house. The two ends communicate via the electrical wiring (which is basically turned into an ethernet network between the two ends. The second end broadcasts a wifi signal with faster speed than the Actiontec wifi since its driven by one of the ethernet ports. Set it up in 5 minutes and works awesome. Gives me full coverage for a 3,000 sq/ft house. Highly recommend.

u/DrapeRape · 21 pointsr/funny

I would recommend the ASUS RT-AC66U Dual-Band Wireless-AC1750 Gigabit Router. From a misc source:

> 5th generation 802.11ac chipset gives you concurrent dual-band 2.4GHz/5GHz for up to super-fast 1.75Gbps

>
ASUS Aicloud service: Access, stream, share, sync – all on the go with unlimited storage expansion!

> Gigabit Ethernet ports for the fastest, most reliable internet performance

>
AiRadar optimizes wireless coverage with detachable high-powered antennas

> Enjoy the ASUSWRT dashboard UI for 3 steps easy setup, signal monitoring, and network application control

>
Download Master for wireless data storage and access to your router-connected USB storage devices

>* File sharing, printer sharing, and 3G sharing via two multi-functional built-in USB ports

Essentially, good range and a good value that is very easy to use and has exceptional capability--in my opinion.

Total cost: $170-$190 USD

*

Alternatively, I'd also recommend the Netgear WNDR4500 since one of your primary concerns is range.

> This is a N-series wireless router and features 2.4GHz and 5GHz wireless connectivity and can go up-to 900 (450 + 450) megabytes per second and Gigabit LAN ports as well as USB for sharing printer or external storage with the devices connected on your network. Also it has a TimeMachine server for all the Mac folks and You can use an attached hard-drive as a TimeMachine backup drive(wirelessly or wired) . You can monitor this router from your iOS/Android smartphone or tablet (using Netgear Genie App) as well as from PC. It has a good Wireless range so you can enjoy connectivity even by your poolside. Got guests? You can enable Guest Wireless and they are completely separated from your personal data and can only surf the web. You can also use DLNA to stream videos to your smartTV and bring up the show.

Price is about $130-160 depending on where you buy it--making it rather affordable.

If the range of the wi-fi signal is not to your satisfaction, you may need to also purchase a wi-fi signal booster such as the ZyXEL WAP3205 v2 for $49.99.

In total, this duo would set you back around $200-$220 USD, depending on where you can buy it--in addition to giving you insane range (you could probably provide wifi for your neighbors too, haha). Only do this if you need really insane range, though.

u/ChrisOfAllTrades · 21 pointsr/wiiu

Your power word is "ASIX AX88772" which is the chipset used in the official adapter.

This one works fine.

u/falcon4287 · 21 pointsr/buildapc

If this is a house, not an apartment, just hire a professional to run the cable. It should be about $100 per cable run anywhere in the house, so long as it's possible.

Get the cable run up to the 2nd floor, then put in a good 5MHz access point on the second floor. You could even set up two access points in wireless bridge mode (one on the second and one on the third floor) and have a switch up on the third floor for hardwiring more devices. These DLink 1525s are great access points with built in switches and can run bridge mode. The newer and more expensive one is the DAP 1650. If you don't need the switch ports on the back, I suggest sticking with the cheaper TP Link AP.

Also, you could see about moving your cable modem upstairs.

u/dubidada · 19 pointsr/Frat

Unifi is the best what you can get in the professional range for a reasonable price. There is only one step up, which would be Cisco, but that stuff is unmanageable if you are not seriously familiar with their equipment.
Get a couple of Unifi AC Longrange Access Points (Unifi AP AC LR), they are simply awesome. They broadcast on both 2.4 and 5 GHz simultaneously, and the range is crazy. One of them is like 100$, and there are packs of 3, where you save a little. Connect them to your router/mode from your ISP, or get a switch from Unifi and connect them to it.


And yes, you wan't to keep both networks. It's actually not 2 networks, it's the same network broadcast over 2 different frequencies. But people might have older devices not supporting the newer 5 GHz standard, so you should keep it.

u/blueboybob · 18 pointsr/cordcutters

ASUS RT-AC66U

2 Rokus, 2 cellphones, 1 tablet, 2 laptops often all connected.

Plug in a HDD for easy sharing.

u/Jhubbz86 · 17 pointsr/buildapcsales

As someone who owns the white and Dawn Shadow versions of this, I can tell you I used the Asus BT400, and it worked ok, but I was also only ever 2-3 feet away from it. Even then, I still had some small issues with it. I ended up sucking it up and buy the official Microsoft Xbox One Adapter for Windows. I've had zero issues since, and I highly suggest you just got for that, especially since it's only $19 right now, as opposed to it's normal $25.

u/trd86 · 17 pointsr/smashbros

http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Ethernet-Network-Adapter-Chromebook/dp/B00484IEJS

$12, just a generic USB to Ethernet adapter. You do not need the Nintendo adapter.

u/SenselessTragedy · 16 pointsr/xboxone

What kind of modem do you have? Modems play a huge part, bigger than routers. I'm running this router and it works perfectly

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LXL1AR8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505166546&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=asus+gigabit+router

Hopefully you have a docsis 3.0 modem. If you don't, you need to upgrade. I'm running this modem https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MA5U1FW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1 and it's flawless.

u/Nakotadinzeo · 15 pointsr/techsupportgore

Donor? why not new?

Here's a black one

Here's an orange one from a site that you will want to use a reloadable MasterCard to buy from

while it's open replace the laser (check your model number for exact laser replacement, this is just an example)

Open ps2 loader and all that.. I ended up having to order a swap magic disk to install free mcboot but there are other ways.

This is optional and expensive, but it will also be an upgrade for any internet connected device around your TV:

  • Grab 2 suggested dual-band AC routers suggested here and flash one (or both DD-WRT is awesome) with DD-WRT or Tomato. If you already have a dual-band AC router, there's no reason to replace it, just get one dual band AC router and flash it.

  • If you haven't already, replace your old router with one of the new ones (the one you don't have to flash with DD-WRT). Configure it as normal, you just upgraded your WiFi significantly though.

  • Take the other router and follow the instructions to install the latest version of DD-WRT/Tomato, your going to need the additional functionality of these third-party firmwares.

  • configure this router as a wireless bridge device, set it to connect to your other router in the 5Ghz spectrum. Make sure that you set this router's IP address as something other than the default 192.168.1.1 or you will have to start over with a 30-30-30 reset.

  • Plug it in behind your TV and plug in anything that has an ethernet port to it (the PS2 with the hard drive kit obviously, but your Xbox 360/one, PS3/4, set-top boxes, smart TV, HTPC, rasberrypi, etc)

  • If your PC is pugged into the router with a cat6e and has a gigabyte nic, your done. If you have your PC on a wireless network, you need to check to see what revision of WiFi your wifi nic supports. If it supports AC, you don't have to go any further. If it's a G/N card, you will also need to upgrade it as well. Laptop suggestion, Possibly needed accessory if you need a long card, Desktop suggestion

    What has all this done? Well, firstly your network is now upgraded to AC and that has given you a ~1Gbps link to your modem and other PCs on the network (assuming that you upgraded them all with new WNICs). have fun transferring your entire install of Fallout 4 from one PC to the other in a matter of moments, this would be a great time to look into faster internet packages because you can handle it.

    But the other thing, the thing that made you have to do all this scary firmware flashing on expensive networking equipment? Your devices now have a 1Gbps link to your router as well. That's far far better than the NICs in the consoles/set top boxes and since the PS2 has no wireless NIC, this was completely necessary to have it attached to your TV and be able to stream the ISOs off your PC. The router is working backwards, using WiFi as it's WAN connection and supplying connection to the ports.

    This is essentially the setup I have, except I'm using my old Dual-band N router as my wireless bridge. The PS2 can load a game far faster than it could off the disk through the network, but also my 360/PS3 can download content and updates far faster than they can with their internal adapters. Anything pulling network video will be more responsive, and will be able to utilise the full speed of your internet connection for things like Netflix.

    Is it a lot to connect your PS2 to the WLAN? oh yeah, but your also upgrading your connection for everything else you use at the same time.
u/ReBurnInator · 15 pointsr/xbox

Assuming you're on wifi get one of these:

https://smile.amazon.com/HooToo-Wireless-Performance-TripMate-Hotspot/dp/B00HZWOQZ6/

Use it to bridge to your communal network, then connect your Xbox to it. Now people can't cast to your Xbox.

u/MoistSquid · 15 pointsr/softwaregore

Not OP, but we've deployed Ubiquiti products in a few of our enterprise customers and it is running great. I am not sure how much you already know about networking, but I'll explain for anyone else reading.

First, some background to fully understand what it is you are trying to do. The thing that most consumers call "routers" are really three things: a router, a switch, and an access point. TLDR the router portion is the thing that actually moves traffic between machines, the switch extends how many physical ethernet ports you have, and the access point gives you wifi.

The Ubiquiti Access Points (UAP) are just access points. You will still need a router to route traffic, and your consumer one will work just fine for most people. If you are looking to get something more SOHO, Ubiquiti also makes their own router/firewall (check out USG, or ideally EdgeRouter). For all intents and purposes, it is a pretty good idea to separate the roles of your network (physical appliances for the router, firewall, wireless, etc...), and you can have as many UAP's as you'd like for wireless. The UAP's run off of Ubiquiti's 24V Power-over-Ethernet (POE), which can be provided via a POE injector or with a Ubiquiti Switch (either Unifi or EdgeMax). So for a basic network, you'll disable the wireless functionality on your consumer router, and plug a UAP into a port (obviously you'll need to pass it through the POE injector first). Rinse and repeat for however many UAP's you want, maybe another one on the other side of the house for example.

The UAP is pretty useless on its own, though. It needs a piece of software called the Unifi Controller. The software is free, and you can run it on Windows, Linux, or with Ubiquiti's appliance called the Cloud Key. Within Unifi Controller, you'll setup the UAP's; e.g. setting the visible wifi name (SSID), security, channels, etc... It isn't too complicated, the interface is really intutive and anyone who is even slightly technical could figure it out. The controller also serves another really important feature, which is zero-handoff. As long as the controller is running, your device will connect to the access point with the best signal. This is the seamless switching you asked about.

Ubiquiti also is focused on mesh networking, although we are generally pretty against that for businesses for reliability reasons. Of course, the exception to that is Cisco Meraki, which is a hybrid that will self-heal. If you lie and say you are an IT professional, you can get a free Meraki with a 3 year license. Just make sure that you follow the rules.

As a note, I would stick to the UAP AC's. They are the newer version and run great. For consumers, the UAP-AC-LITE is going to work fine. Obviously there is more to networking and wireless solutions than what I went over here, but this is the general gist of it.

u/silverbullet1972 · 14 pointsr/phoenix

For the best modem, get this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016PE1X5K

And in combination with this router, you will get every bit of speed you pay for:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S9SGNNS

I regularlly get ~180Mbps down. Good luck! (I only pay for the 150 down plan)

u/wsaaasnmj · 13 pointsr/livesound

I would shy away from a travel router, but there are plenty of consumer ones that are small enough to throw in a backpack or a small bag.

The problem with a travel router is that they only usually have a WAN port instead of a LAN port. WAN is looking for a internet connection/modem and will do weird things if it doesn't find one. Basically the same as plugging your console into the WAN port on a consumer router, it is trying to use your console to create a network, but all you want to do is connect your console to a network, not have it be the source. I am no network engineer(even though it feels like it sometimes), but if anyone else can explain better I would love to hear how you interpret it.

I am using a small ASUS router right now as I write this to run sound for a college graduation. This one to be exact.

Router is under the stage next to a stagebox mixer, and I can walk everywhere in the arena, and even outside and have no issues with dropouts. I am using a iPad air which takes advantage of AC routers and beamforming.

Just stick with a brand that is reputable, Asus, Netgear, and Apple are a few that come to mind.

You dont have to spend a fortune to get good coverage, you just have to spend smart, and get good, reputable gear.


Another tip: Hide your SSID in router settings. You basically get DDoS attacked by people wanting free wifi if you don't, even when you password protect.

u/scottocs · 12 pointsr/usenet

I have Gigabit through EPB Fiber and I use an Asus RT-AC66U. It looks like there is a newer RC-AC87U.

On my router, I replaced the firmware with Merlin's firmware which adds some extra functionality.

It's nice having a built-in VPN and all the other features of Asus's firmware, but I doin't use many of them since I have a computer that acts as a server for that.

u/Fairuse · 12 pointsr/Chromecast

I used the following guide for my setup.

https://productforums.google.com/forum/#!topic/chromecast/xo_NDh5CZA8;context-place=topicsearchin/chromecast/category$3Achrome-os

The ethernet adapter I got was the Linksys USB3GIG. It is nice that the USB3GIG supports 1000Gb and has USB3.0 to take full advantage of the bandwidth in theory.

My setup cost me $29, but it can be done for $20.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CXAC1ZW

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLUSE7

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYT481C

Edit: I changed the amazon links since I didn't realize amazon shorten links are referral links.

u/vanguard_anon · 12 pointsr/buildapc

What you want is an unmanaged gigabit switch. There is a chance that a 100Mb switch will slow you down at school so you don't want that.

Just about all unmanaged gigabit switches are the same speed and super reliable so you can get a cheap one. This should work: http://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-SG1005D-Unmanaged-Gigabit-Desktop/dp/B000N99BBC/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1345946991&sr=1-6&keywords=gigabit+switch

u/banzaiburrito · 11 pointsr/vegaslocals

Don't rent a modem from them. Buy your own. You're literally giving them free money for no reason if you do that.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016PE1X5K/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_1LmYCbMF6MJPT

u/tUber- · 10 pointsr/wiiu

I've bought this one a few years ago and it works perfectly: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00484IEJS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I think every ethernet adapter with the same chipset (ASIX AX88772 chipset) will work with Wii U.

edit: formatting

u/Vandstar · 10 pointsr/techsupport

Fresh build or did you install this on a machine that you have been using for awhile? Also what OS? Have you tried the card in another machine? I see that you believe that the drivers are current, have you tried an older driver. Is there more than one driver for this card on the manufacturer's support site? Why did you purchase a $200 network card when one 1\3 the price would have worked fine? Define your WiFi environment, what router, what extenders, what other devices are on the WiFi network? Do you have a remote weather station? Did you have another WiFi card in the machine before this one? If so did you remove the previous cards drivers and all software? When you installed the driver, did the driver package include proprietary Asus software besides the driver, or did you install the driver by itself? What size was the driver package in MB's? What motherboard are you using? Does it have built in WiFi or LAN? Out of curiosity, what software are you using to measure speed? If you don't know all the answers, just answer what you can and we can piece it together fairly easy. I have more questions, but those can wait.



Edit: Did you pay $200 for this card? I don't know the historical prices of this card, you may have bought it a year ago when the price could have been higher, card prices drop pretty quickly as do all PC components over time.

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Wi-Fi-Express-Adapter-PCE-AC56/dp/B00JNA337K

u/saltac · 10 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I've just tried this out.


I have my UGreen USB ethernet adapter plugged into my Anker USB-C hub with PD and my Anker Powercore+ 26800 PD battery powering the whole thing.


Its charging and showing me the squiggly line for wired ethernet on the screen, so I'm pretty sure any dock using compatible components will work in the way you want.

As an aside - obviously the HDMI port doesn't work, unfortunately.

EDIT: the UGreen Ethernet adaptor is plugged into one of the USB A 3.1 ports on the Anker hub.

u/Saint_Flip · 10 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Having played a lot of Splatoon I would recommend getting an Ethernet adapter. The one I liked below works like a charm.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQM8586/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/boppop · 9 pointsr/apple

I'll be the first to admit it, I am a huge Apple fanboy. They make great products and for the most part their quality and function are superb. That being said, the Airport Extreme is easily substandard to some of the other routers out there on the market. (http://www.amazon.com/RT-AC66U-Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1750-Gigabit-Router/dp/B008ABOJKS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413767944&sr=8-1&keywords=ASUS+RT-AC66U+Dual-Band+Wireless-AC1750) is extremely powerful and probably a better investment.

I honestly know of no real advantage that Apple's routers offer that aren't commonplace. Beam-forming maybe but, I don't really notice it to be worth it.

This would be a different conversation if you were looking into an Apple Timecapsule for the backup purposes.

u/nohpex · 9 pointsr/gadgets

Get this one instead. It's USB 3.0, caps out at 100 Mbps, and is on the list of USB 3.0 adapters that work. I have two different ones unfortunately, and this is the one that works.

Edit: I just noticed that this one is currently unavailable. Wait a day or so, and check again. They usually run for $15.

u/Fleetbin · 9 pointsr/GameDeals

From what I can tell, there's absolutely no difference between this and a regular USB bluetooth dongle, like the one I bought from Amazon. Works perfectly with the DS4, and is cheaper.

Also works with any other bluetooth device I want to connect to my PC, like an Xbone controller, or my phone.

u/iHelp101 · 9 pointsr/perktv

All the links contain affiliate links (tag=lx7-20&linkId=fe646f143f52bb0de1504aa396676d4e). Unaffiliated links are below. The user has posted affiliate links before, so I believe this is not an "Oops" mistake. The users also posted this in Beermoney as well, but it was removed because of the affiliate links included.
_____
Access Point - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRO512/

Router - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YFJT29C

Powerline Adapter - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EE9APYS

Modem -https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016PE1X5K

Ethernet Cables - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E5I7VJG


u/Kables07 · 9 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Yes it's a PS4 controller.

All you need is a DS4 controller, Bluetooth USB and DS4Tool

Here's how I do it on Windows 8:

  1. You plug the Bluetooth USB then access the Windows 8 Device Settings

  2. Press and hold the Share and PS button until the light quickly flashes.

  3. In the Windows 8 Device Settings you click Add a device then the Wireless Controller will appear, just click on it to pair it.

  4. In the DS4Tool folder go in Virtual Bus Driver folder and install ScpDriver.exe (run as administrator).

  5. Finally go back to the root of DS4Tool folder and run ScpServer. Enjoy!
u/etari · 9 pointsr/interestingasfuck

This is true I actually have a Wi-Fi Powerline Extender and 3 other normal powerline adapters in my house. 2 Birds with 1 stone.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSQAIQU

u/K5cents · 9 pointsr/battlestations

Just my humble anti-PCMR battlestation.

Pictured Tech:

u/demeal · 9 pointsr/BuyItForLife

I don't think there is a BIFL cable product that is going to be worth the cost for non-professional use.

However, if you are not an audiophile or do not require the best sound output (are you outputting to high end speakers?), I would recommend looking into wireless audio adapters. You can go with either Bluetooth or RF. What you need is a 3.5mm wireless/bluetooth adapter which you plug into your laptop and then a receiver which you plug your speakers into. Your laptop should actually already have bluetooth, so you might not even need the 3.5mm adapter.

That said, there is no BIFL for wireless audio receivers. I am currently using a logitech one (this one) which has lasted a year and a half so far. Really anything works here, I even had a DX.com one I bought for $6 which lasted 2 years of decent sound output (for bluetooth) before conking out. I only use them for outputting audio from my phone to my bathroom speakers.

u/AtrumTalio · 8 pointsr/smashbros

Hands down, yes. They're practically necessary, in my opinion.

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Ethernet-Network-Adapter-Chromebook/dp/B00484IEJS/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1487086534&sr=8-7&keywords=wii+u+ethernet+adapter
This is the one I use, and it works fine. They're kind of finnicky with the wii u in general, but it works very well for me. Don't buy the ugreen one, that one is shit and doesn't work.

u/Toasty27 · 8 pointsr/gadgets

Netgear's firmware is garbage. The only manufacturer that I've been able to get consistent performance and reliability out of is Asus. I don't think it's a coincidence that their firmware is open source and based off of DD-WRT.

Although their models have gotten cheaper over the years. I bought my AC87 refurbished for $180 probably four years ago now, and it's still running great. The AC56 (I think that was $120 when I bought it?) that it replaced started giving me trouble after a year or so.

If I had to make a recommendation today, it would probably be the AC68 (currently $140 on Amazon), although if you were in a small apartment the AC66 ($65 on Amazon) would probably also do you well.

Asus provides regular updates to their routers, and there's good support for third party firmware.

u/SirEDCaLot · 8 pointsr/needadvice

Nope, nothing at all. You are the first person to ever run into the problem of being too far away from your router. There is no technology to solve this problem, and there never will be. Your only solution is to tear down your parents' house and build a smaller one so you'll be closer to the router...

I kid :)

This is a very common problem and it's easy to solve. Here's a few options.

The easiest is probably a WiFi Range Extender. These work decently well at re-generating the wireless signal to increase the coverage area. Put the range extender within the area that still has good coverage, set it up correctly, and it will expand that coverage.

There are a few drawbacks though. Your signal from the range extender will only be as useful as the range extender's signal back to the base station. So if you put the range extender on the fringe of the base's coverage, then you'll see a really strong signal on your device (from the range extender) but the bandwidth will still suck (because the range extender can't make a good connection back to the base).
Also, even when this system is working perfectly, it will reduce your wireless bandwidth by 50% or more. That's because the range extender uses the same frequency to receive and then re-transmit each signal, so each packet takes double the frequency time to send- once to be transmitted, and again to be re-transmitted by the range extender. Note that this may not actually affect your Internet speed- if your WiFi is going at 300mbit/sec, and this halves it to 150mbit/sec, then it's still not a bottleneck if your cable modem is only 30mbit/sec.

A potentially more reliable option is a MoCA Bridge Kit. That takes your local network as Ethernet from your router and re-injects it back into the coax cable. The result is anywhere you have a coax jack, you can just add another MoCA unit and whammo you now have a hardwired Ethernet port. In most houses this works slightly better than WiFi range extenders since you're getting a hardwired connection. To expand your wireless range, buy both this kit and the above range extender, plug one MoCA unit into your router and the coax, the other MoCA unit into the range extender and the coax, and then set the range extender to operate as an access point (not a range extender). Set the network name and security key to be the same as on the base router, but use a different channel. This will give you the fastest and most reliable system overall. Your laptop/phone/etc will connect to whichever device is closest (base router or the range extender working as a second access point).

IMPORTANT NOTE ON MoCA BRIDGES: MoCA only works on houses that use Cable internet and TV. If your house uses Satellite TV, then there's a similar device for DirecTV called DECA. If you have cable internet and satellite TV, that means there's two coax systems in your house (one from the modem, the other from the dish) so whichever bridges you use have to be on the same system.
If you have AT&T U-Verse, none of this shit will work because they use something completely different called HPNA-over-coax that's not compatible with either MoCA or DECA.

Hope that helps! Feel free to ask if you have any questions...

u/YummyMeatballs · 8 pointsr/mildlyinteresting

These are great, I install them for clients all the time. Rather than extending a crappy wifi signal it runs a network through your outlets. Pop the big one near your Chromecast, little one wires in to your router downstairs.

u/9sW9SZ189uXySHfzFVFt · 8 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Get a router that allows you to enter the captive portal information. I got this travel router so I could do this when traveling at hotels: https://smile.amazon.com/HooToo-Wireless-Performance-TripMate-Hotspot/dp/B00HZWOQZ6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484763846&sr=8-3&keywords=travel+router

u/korben1301 · 8 pointsr/amazonecho

I already have a set of nice speakers in my living room so I bought this Logitech bluetooth adapter to allow my Echo Dot to connect to those speakers wirelessly. The only downside is that the adapter reconnects automatically no matter how many times I tell Alexa to disconnect bluetooth, so it has to be powered down (unplugged) if I ever want to just use the Echo Dot's internal speaker. To solve this, I plugged the bluetooth adapter into a Wemo switch, which I named "stereo". Now, if I want to play the Echo Dot's audio through the nice stereo, I just say "Alexa, turn on the stereo"...Alexa turns on the wemo, which gives power to the Logitech adapter, which then auto-connects to the Echo and I'm in business. Saying "Alexa, turn off the stereo" powers down the Wemo/Logitech Adapter and the Echo Dot returns to playing through its internal speaker.

u/Phonochirp · 8 pointsr/nintendo

> Now if you can help me fix the lag.

Here, I also recommend subscribing to a real ISP, but that varies between regions.

u/Ultramarine6 · 8 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I found This One for $10 that's been working for me just fine.

u/DZCreeper · 8 pointsr/buildapc

It has to be DOCSIS 3.0. The more channels available the more stable your speeds and the higher speeds you can buy. This is why some models costs more but look the same. Channels = Speed.

https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6190-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B016PE1X5K

The SB6190 is the best consumer modem that money can buy.

u/dantheman5606 · 7 pointsr/Boise

In that case it could definitely be a poor wifi signal. You might want to think about getting a wireless AC device if the price is right. My parents had this same issue when they first switched to CableOne at their house. They have the 100/3 plan and were only getting about 1Mbps down on wifi. I bought them the http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PDLRHFW when it was on sale a while back for $99 and now they get about 90 - 100 Mbps down when on devices that support wireless AC. I hope this information helps some, but I am not sure if the chromebook that you have supports wireless AC. If it does not then there would be no need to spend the extra money.

u/mcribgaming · 7 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Dude you can get almost any router on the market and it will be far too good for your shorty speeds.

I've had a lot of luck with this ASUS RT-ARCH13 deployed in other people's houses that did not want any fuss at all. It does not support third party firmware, and that is the reason I think it is so cheap, but it is solid with stock firmware. I never hear cries for help from anyone I set up with this unit. It's selling for $60 right now, and has 5GHz wireless and gigabit LAN ports, and can work with far higher speeds if you get some in the future:

https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Band-Super-Fast-Gigabit-MU-MIMO-RT-ACRH13/dp/B01LXL1AR8

If you want to go really cheap, but with a model that has stood the test of time and DOES support third party firmware (you might not care), here is the old ASUS N-12, which only has the 2.4 GHz wireless network, but should still be more than enough for your trickle down Internet speed. It's $30 new, but honestly you can probably find one of these for <$10 if you look around at used equipment places:

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-N300-Technology-streaming-performing-RT-N12/dp/B00DWFPDNO

You might just want to ask around your social group for any used router they have and don't use, like any "N" class router. Your speed just needs any semi-modern wireless equipment.

u/Ssylex · 7 pointsr/PS4

I've had this problem, and have spent a considerable amount of time trying to figure out how to solve it.

My best advice would be to ensure that your PS4 is connected to the network via ethernet, not wifi, as there is a single shared antenna for wifi and bluetooth in the PS4^1. If your PS4 is too far away to allow for it to be connected via ethernet, consider purchasing an access point^2.

I also saw improvement by going into the settings of my Samsung Smart TV and disabling every single function that connected by TV to my wireless network. My reasoning was that the TV would periodically "phone home" to download updates to the firmware and streaming video applications supported by the TV, saturating the wireless network; this in turn would interfere with the bluetooth connection between the PS4 and its controller.

Good luck!

u/rerunx5 · 7 pointsr/PS4

I use Kinivo BTD-400 Bluetooth 4.0 USB adapter which works well using my PS4 controller and Wiimote on Windows 8.1

You can make the PS4 controller act as a Xbox 360 controller for X-input games (that don't support D-input) like Super Meat Boy and others using DS4Windows or DS4 To XInput Wrapper

Found directions on pairing it and using xinput wrapper: http://www.amazon.com/review/R2EBCN3CPRF4MM/ref=cm_cr_dp_cmt?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B007Q45EF4&nodeID=541966&store=pc#wasThisHelpful

u/MalfeasantMarmot · 7 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Honestly this would serve your needs well for just basic internet access and streaming. It's a good price and easy to configure. Don't fall for any of the gaming router marketing BS or anything like that.

u/Robots_Never_Die · 7 pointsr/HomeNetworking

If you want a affordable gigabit setup with Ubiquiti just run this setup.

  • USG $110
  • Unifi AP AC Lite $80
  • TP-Link 8 Port Unmanaged Switch $25
  • 1000' cat 5e $85
  • 24 port patch panel $19

    If you don't have a gigabit connection you can swap out the USG for an ER-X which will knock off $50 but if you have the $50 to spend I would suggest staying with the USG so all your managed products are on the Unifi admin interface. You can also save some money by going with 500' of cat 5e if you don't need the full 1k foot spool.
u/Stickfigs · 7 pointsr/techsupport

>I just need to run one long cable to the other end of the house, attach an ethernet switch, and then hook 3 shorter ethernet cables to the switch and run them to each room?

Pretty much. Any layer 2 switch will do, think of it as an extension to the ports already on your router. No other setup is required. I doubt you will have to worry about signal degradation.


Some other alternatives to throw at you.

If there is existing coax in the rooms Moca adapters can be an option.

Powerline adapters are also a thing for empty electric sockets in the rooms, not the best for data transfer though.

Could also setup an access point near the other side of the house in place of the switch to provide wireless access and switching.

u/rapemybones · 7 pointsr/CrazyHand

As long as it's a Gigabit adapter, they're honestly all the same speed. I bought the Plugable because it was recommended by lots of others, has great reviews for Switch use, it's affordable, AND it's USB 3.0 compatible. Works perfectly btw, perfect size for the side plate.

The Hori/Nintendo one is more expensive (more than double the price) and doesn't have 3.0 capabilities. Now that doesn't matter right now, but people believe that the Switch console is also 3.0 capable, they just haven't provided an update to "activate" it. If they ever do, and there's any speed increase to be seen, you won't get it with a 2.0 adapter like the Hori/Nintendo.

u/kev23777 · 7 pointsr/Chromecast

You need to get a travel router. I got this one and it works great. [HooToo TripMate Nano] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HZWOQZ6)

u/ConfessionsAway · 6 pointsr/gadgets

I have a network card in my gaming rig alongside a gtx 970 graphics card and the usb card is in the front of the case and plugs into the motherboard.

u/IVIeehan · 6 pointsr/Chromecast

I got got one of these hootoo travel routers.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HZWOQZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RJmGDb4W10W1A

It lets you setup a private network off the back of a public one like xfinitywifi our something similar.

u/mercenary_sysadmin · 6 pointsr/HomeNetworking

> TP Link Archer C2 (v3) AC900. 433Mbps on 5Ghz

That router is complete garbage. The 5 GHz radio on it is 1x1, so it's not in any way surprising you're only seeing 50 Mbps or so down from it on an iPhone vs 100 Mbps on a public network - the public network will have 2x2 chipsets in the APs, so you'll see roughly double the throughput.

> 51Mbps is just 11% of what it claims to do.

AC speed ratings are complete horseshit, FYI. I literally wrote a 6,000-ish word article about how and why they're horse shit, and still didn't cover all the reasons. The TL;DR in your case is that 433 Mbps is based on PHY, and you literally could not get that amount of actual data transferred from your phone to that router if you disassembled both of them and ran wires from the antenna mount on the one to the antenna mount on the other.

If you replace the C2 with a better router you should be able to pull anywhere from 100 to 200 Mbps from an iPhone 8 within reasonable range (no more than twenty-five feet and two interior walls) of the router. You'll be able to connect from farther than that, but speed and quality will degrade.

I'm assuming you want to keep going cheap on routers, or you wouldn't have a C2 in the first place. If that's the case, try replacing it with a $69 Archer A7 instead.

Also note that the speed you manage with your devices will go down depending on how many devices are connected at once, how active they are, and in general will be affected more by the devices with poorer connections than the ones with better connections - ie if a phone is all the way at the kitty-corner end of the apartment as far and as many walls away as possible from the router, it will tend to impact the service quality of ALL devices, not just of itself, as it will use an inordinate amount of airtime.

u/Clarice01 · 6 pointsr/Wilmington

Pulling about 117/11 here in Monkey Junction, on the formerly 30/5 service.

For those of you with your own modems (if you don't have your own, you're wasting money btw!), you may need to upgrade to get the full throughput.

I have a Motorola/Arris SB6141, and the reason I'm not getting 200/20 is because of it. Realistically whatever the max speed claimed on a cable modem is, divide it by three and that's what you'll actually be able to max.

Anyone in need of upgrades, I'd suggest one of the following:
http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6183-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B00MA5U1FW/

http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6190-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B016PE1X5K/

u/wanderingbilby · 6 pointsr/techsupport

You just need a switch. This one is $20 for 5 ports of gigabit. You can get 10/100 switches even cheaper, but I wouldn't.

It's plug 'n' play.

edit: changed model of switch to one that's in-stock currently

u/ilikefastinternet · 6 pointsr/Stadia

TP-Link TL-SG1005D 10/100/1000Mbps Port Gigabit Desktop Switch, 10Gbps Capacity, Plug and Play, Up to 70% Power Saving https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000N99BBC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7LVTDbEKA601N

Mods sorry if I can't post links like that.

u/GaryJS3 · 6 pointsr/lgv20

You have a few options. Be careful of the gigabit Ethernet usb adapters. The gigabit ones use a different chipset than the 10/100mb ones. I've heard of compatibility problems with the gigabit ones. With my v20, I use a type-c to USB 3 adapter along with a USB to 10/100 Ethernet NIC.

(Adapter, also includes a useful type c to micro USB so you can use other people's micro USB chargers, I keep these in my wallet )
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01J7KE7SE/

( USB NIC, There's cheaper ones than this, but you really want the indicator lights so you know it's working )
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00484IEJS/

They said no routers. Which I can understand. But what about an unmanaged network switch?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A128S24/

u/xOhoKsDU9Va · 6 pointsr/homedefense

Get an access point which can be put into client mode and plug it into your NVR

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-300Mbps-Repeater-TL-WA801ND/dp/B004UBU8IE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1543089995&sr=8-3&keywords=wireless+access+point

This way it will connect as if hard wired, but really over wireless

u/dd4tasty · 6 pointsr/AskTechnology

This is going to get downvoted because of the A word, but, the Apple Airport Extreme is an extremely capable and stable wireless router.

http://www.amazon.com/AirPort-Extreme-802-11n-5th-Generation/dp/B0057AVXJA

The 5th generation version is still fine. Go up to $200 and you can get the current version, which is AC capable, etc.

If you have game consoles, which like uPnP, be advised the Apple does not offer uPnP.

If you have game consoles:

http://www.amazon.com/RT-AC66U-Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1750-Gigabit-Router/dp/B008ABOJKS/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1376407132&sr=1-1&keywords=asus+ac66u

or

http://www.amazon.com/RT-N66U-Dual-Band-Wireless-N900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B006QB1RPY/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1376407149&sr=1-2&keywords=asus+ac66u

This:

http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-popular

u/NinjaCoder · 6 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I use a few Moca adapters to connect wired ethernet to several places in my home that do not have Cat-5/6 installed.

I routinely get 200Mbps on them, which, for me, is plenty fast for most things.

u/Ouch_my_ballz · 6 pointsr/buildapc

I've been using a set of these Moca adapters for a few years now. If you have coax tv cable throughout your house, it will be plug and play up to 270 Mbps.

u/choyjay · 6 pointsr/smashbros

You need a LAN adapter that has the AX88179 chipset, or it won't work. It's not rare or anything, but there are different ones, so check before you buy.

The Plugable one is a popular buy for a good price ($15) and a reliable brand.

u/programstuff · 6 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Yeah it makes a huge difference. Another one that works which was recommended else where is the Plugable USB 3.0 lan adapter $14.75, works great for me

u/Salsastrength · 6 pointsr/splatoon

you can get a random one on amazon for like 10 bucks. I got one for my wii u and it works on my switch as well.

edit:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MYT481C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

this is the one I got, so I can guarantee it works on switch.

u/MightySchwa · 6 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I recently got the TP-link AC1900 "Archer C9". Its been fantastic. Can be had for $79 on Amazon. I have 8 devices connected to it, 2 of them hard-wired. I can have a hard-wired device and a wireless device both streaming HD video, and wireless gaming on a laptop. I will still pull a download speed of 40 mpbs on my phone on speedtest. My ISP service is 60 down/6 up.

u/the_blue_wizard · 6 pointsr/audio

Two quick and easy options -

1.) Bluetooth Receivers - these are no that expensive, and will allow you to connect your phone to the Amp WIRELESSLY, and you can play as long as your phone is within 30feet. You can find many of these on Amazon US or UK or anywhere. They are very common and very reasonable priced.

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Bluetooth-Receiver-NFC-Enabled/dp/B00KXYXXK2

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-980-000910-Bluetooth-Adapter-Streaming/dp/B00IQBSW28

https://www.amazon.com/Avantree-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Receiver-Headphones/dp/B00LAZ6RTW

2.) Headphone Out - Get a simple 3.5mm Stereo cable to two RCA connectors. Plug the 3.5mm into the Headphone Jack of the Phone and the RCA into one of the unused inputs on the amp. Select the Input on the Amp Selector Switch, and adjust the volume until you can hear the sound.

https://www.amazon.com/AIFFECT-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Adapter/dp/B01GZRMO7S

u/Emerald_Flame · 6 pointsr/techsupport

OP either got ripped of, or is making shit up. That card he linked only costs $55 brand new. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JNA337K

u/DieselWang · 5 pointsr/audio

What you're looking for is a receiver.

This is a cheap and capable one: http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavr1513/denon-avr-1513-5.1ch-home-theater-receiver-3d-ready/1.html

If you need bluetooth, you could just get an adaptor like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-980-000910-Bluetooth-Audio-Adapter/dp/B00IQBSW28

u/dvbreda · 5 pointsr/mac

Your can send music over bluetooth - get one of these to plug into your receiver. If you're too far for bluetooth - Apple's Airport Express receives music via AirPlay. Both can connect via standard 3.5mm stereo jacks.

u/Marauder2 · 5 pointsr/amazonecho

You can get a Bluetooth receiver and connect it to your receiver. Then you pair your Dot to the Bluetooth receiver when you want and it will play through your audio setup. I'll find an example on Amazon and post back.

Edit - something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IQBSW28/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1480902563&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=bluetooth+receiver&dpPl=1&dpID=41UR6fEoZTL&ref=plSrch

u/gusgizmo · 5 pointsr/Ubiquiti

You could do 3 sets of these to throw data around the park, for 6 units total. 3 would be mounted on your main building:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-NanoStation-Dedicated-Management-NS-5ACL-US/dp/B078NN1J4K

Then 4 of these, 1 in the main building, 3 in the corners of the park:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UAP-AC-M-US-Unifi-Access-Point/dp/B01N9FIELY

If you still have dead spots to fill in, you would add in more Unifi Mesh AP's, and use the wireless uplink mode. If you do that I'd suggest swapping in a Mesh Pro to improve capacity for that cell.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UAP-AC-M-PRO-US-Unifi-Access-Point/dp/B01N1VMBUR

The idea is to avoid using the Unifi wireless uplink mode as it cuts down the capacity of that cell. Uplinking multiple times really hurts a lot, especially with many hungry clients. Start with a solid foundation, and stretch out the installation only where necessary.

I'd top it all off with a USG and a cheap 8 port switch

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Security-Gateway-USG/dp/B00LV8YZLK

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Ethernet-Optimization-Unmanaged-TL-SG108/dp/B00A121WN6

You'll also want a cloudkey to manage the Unifi computers, or consider loading the controller software on a PC. And don't forget to buy 6 gigabit 24v PoE injectors for the nanostations, or 3 of these and a 4 port 24v gigabit midspan injector:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-POE-24-0-5A-Gigabit-Port/dp/B00NAENDX4

u/underscorecounter · 5 pointsr/buildapc

This is what I have. I absolutely love it and for $100 it works great. It's definitely getting a bit older now but its range is great. It has crazy distance IMO.

u/Duck_Giblets · 5 pointsr/gadgets

You can upgrade wifi router with an enterprise grade unifi ac-lr for $90 from Amazon, it'll beat anything consumer grade.

Edit. Link here: Ubiquiti Unifi Ap-AC Long Range - Wireless Access Point - 802.11 B/A/G/n/AC (UAP-AC-LR-US) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRCBBI/

u/Jemikwa · 5 pointsr/homeowners

Network cabling everywhere. Even if you aren't in tech, you'll still find tremendous use out of this. Some requirements if I were to get it done custom:

  • At least one ethernet jack per room, maybe two per room on opposite sides if I could splurge. These are called network drops.
  • For each ethernet jack, run TWO ethernet cat5/6 per drop, because if one of them breaks or fails, you don't want to be the one that has to rewire a second one from your network closet to the jack. Also useful for testing if the cable is the culprit or if your networking gear is at fault. You don't have to hook up both cables on both sides, just choose one cable per jack to connect and the other is left dangling until you need it.
  • Addendum to above, if you want to be very fancy, get ceiling mounted wireless access points and have a network drop in the ceiling where the WAP will be mounted. You can get WAPs that are powered over an ethernet cable (called Power over Ethernet, PoE) and you would need a PoE Injector with your switch equipment to supply enough power over the lines (though some network switches PoE inject by default, so look for those if you want convenience), or you can wire another power outlet to where the WAP will go in parallel to the network drop that should be there too. Unless your home layout is convoluted, one, maybe two WAPs per floor is sufficient, usually in the common areas of each floor. Too many will cause interference with each other and you'll have a bad wifi signal. You can go with consumer grade TPLink or Netgear (ceiling mounted, remember, not just any old wireless router), or go with a more enterprise Ubiquity WAP (what we use).
  • Find a good spot for your networking gear, preferably near your home "demarc" AKA where your internet comes into the house at. Or, move the demarc into a closet for easier access. Have a patch panel set up that all of the network drops from the rooms connects to, and then you would connect each jack on the patch panel to a network switch, which then has one uplink (connection) to your home modem/router. Of course, the patch panel and network switch have to have at least as many ports as you have network drops to rooms, so if you have 16 drops, you'll have to get a 16 port patch panel and a 16+1 port switch (+1 because you have to have one connection to your uplink router/modem).
  • Not 100% necessary, but if you like having internet during power outages, or just momentary power in general during an outage, get a UPS or two or four... It will provide battery backup power to whatever is plugged into it for a certain amount of time, depending on the electrical load (how many devices you have plugged in, and how much power each device uses). I personally have 4 UPSs all around the house. One for the bedroom, and our phone chargers are plugged into them so we still have charged phones if a power outage happens overnight; one for our desktop computers (avid gamers :P); one for our networking equipment (power spike usually means you lost your internet and it has to reboot. I haven't had to deal with since getting a UPS unless the outage lasts for longer than 30-45 minutes!); and one for the living room TV setup and consoles. If you could only get one, I'd recommend it for the networking gear so you still have internet during momentary spikes. Useful for cell phones and laptops!

    This turned out longer than I expected, so if anything is confusing or you want more details, let me know!
u/joeboo5150 · 5 pointsr/kansascity

Using the modem supplied by google is fine as the front-line router handling any wired connections. But do NOT use it's wifi, you need a separate router because that modems wifi is terrible.

I am personally a fan of ASUS wireless routers, but there's nothing wrong with the usual big names like Netgear or Linksys or whoever. All are easy to use and fine for typical home use.

I use an older version of this:
https://www.amazon.com/RT-ACRH13-Dual-Band-AC1300-4-port-Gigabit/dp/B01LXL1AR8

And it works great

All you really have to do is set your google fiber modem's wifi to OFF in the web-based settings. Then you just run an ethernet cable from the google modem(any ethernet port) to your new wifi router.

Now, the instructions for your wifi router will typically tell you to use the 1 designated ethernet port that is labeled as "uplink" or "internet", but I actually had issues with that on several different routers and just plugged straight into a standard ethernet port(your wireless router will likely have 4+ ports to choose from) and it worked much, much better.

That was the one small quirk compared to how I used to have my Time Warner service setup, using a wireless routers uplink port always worked flawlessly using cable, but not so much with Google Fiber, just use a standard ethernet port for chaining the 2 boxes together.

u/ShiftyAxel · 5 pointsr/3DS

Sounds like a powerline adapter with WiFi would do the job, like one of these.

It'll use your house's powerlines to transmit an ethernet signal from your router to whatever room you like (you get two boxes, one for in one for out) and then broadcast it as it's own WiFi network.

I've used an ethernet-only set for years after getting tired of wifi's latency and general crappiness. So much better!

However, make sure the power sockets being used for the input and output boxes are on the same power circuit- you can test this using your house's circuit breaker. If they both turn off when you flip one of the breaker switches, they're connected and will work.

u/RoboTicks · 5 pointsr/Chattanooga

The internet provided by the property owners is just public Wi-Fi. If you want to have your own private router, you need to purchase your own private internet connection. Contact EPB. It's $54.99/mo for a 300Mbps up/down connection.

You'll want a router like this one: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1750-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B079JD7F7G (Actually - just buy that one)

Source: Live(d) in Wise Properties (2 different buildings) and have/had EPB in both of them.

u/DodgingTheIssue · 5 pointsr/PFSENSE

No, I hear you. I'm in the same market.
But as far as price, the USG is $50-60 cheaper.

USG - $130 - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LV8YZLK/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_9CoODbG2CR6EX

Netgate SG-1100 - $190 - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MTMPXKG/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_RCoODb795M9D3

u/plz_sapnupuas · 5 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I though about getting this router along with a wireless access point as it was recommended to me by someone in r/homenetworking.

I have 400/10 internet (for some reason that is the best upload I can get in my area). I run a plex server, data server, the occasional game server, ADS-B receiver, PiHole, and the typical wireless devices. Is this edge router a decent enough router?

u/kid_schnitte · 5 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

You can get an adapter for a wired connection, like this: UGREEN LAN Adapter USB 2.0 Netzwerk USB zu RJ45 Ethernet Adapter 10/100Mbps https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00MYT481C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Mm1RBbAZA6Z08

u/AtxGuitarist · 5 pointsr/DIY

I designed and built this coop with inspiration from other designs. We have a unused side yard that we turned into a chicken pen with a coop. In about 3 months our chickens should start producing eggs!

Here is the parts list for the Pi camera:


u/notebad · 5 pointsr/GameDeals

My experience with the Steam Link:

It works decently after upgrading from my old WRT54g router (which was unplayable) to a TP-LINK Archer C9.

Although when I say "decently", I'm not one who freaks out if FPS drops to 59 at 1920x1080, or even has to play at that resolution. It's playable. Sometimes it slows down. You can stream Netflix from your browser, sometimes the video goes into slow motion during scenes that have more "action", i.e. a woman jogging... (I haven't even watched something like Transformers...) depending on your Stream setting of Fast, Balanced, Beautiful.

It's nice when it works, most of the time. Sometimes it still drops the connection though, or the window loses focus, or you have to log in to Windows, and you have to physically go to the computer and figure it out, which can be frustrating.

Most of the time I've had to go over physically was because Steam crashed and I had to restart Steam. Hopefully these are bugs they'll be working out as it's still a relatively new device? Between this and the controller, they seem to get regular updates. And things HAVE been getting fixed and enhanced. But apparently it can't start Steam up on it's own over the network, or let you log in to Windows.

It worked plug & play with my Logitech Wireless Touch Keyboard K400 (plugging the little Logitech wireless receiver)

u/braxxytaxi · 5 pointsr/techsupport

You might want to check if you can run multiple devices off your connection as they may only provide you with one IP address (similar to a normal home service from an ISP).

In this case you will need a router to connect up all your devices. Any standard home router will do the trick. I use an ASUS RT N66U - 4 wired gigabit ports, 802.11n Wi-Fi and it's nice and speedy with my 100mbit WAN connection. $129.99 @ Amazon.

However if your uni/college allows for multiple devices per room (ie, they provide you with multiple IP addresses) you will be able to get away with using an ethernet switch. As mentioned in other comments, opt a model with faster Gigabit ports as nowadays there is really no big price difference and the extra bandwidth could come in handy one day. A basic 5-port TP-Link Gigabit switch is $19.99 @ Amazon (or you can get an 8-port model for $24.99 @ Amazon).

Don't get a hub. I honestly haven't seen one on sale for years anyway, good luck trying to track one down!

u/mtciii · 5 pointsr/eero

I bought this and it works well (although I'm sure just about any switch would work well!).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N99BBC/

There's also an 8-port version if you need the extra ports. I didn't. 🙂

u/CBRjack · 5 pointsr/HomeNetworking

It depends on your budget mostly. The best performance/price AP out there, in my opinion, is the Unifi AP AC Lite. This is currently available on Amazon for $75 and the performance is very impressive even compared to $500 enterprise grade APs.

If you have a tiny budget, even something like this TP-Link 802.11n Access Point at $25 would be 6 times faster than your WRT54G.

Honestly, in your situation, I would try the Unifi one and it wouldn't even be surprising if it covered your whole house much better.

u/charlie_work__ · 5 pointsr/HomeNetworking

First question, have you connected a computer directly through the Ethernet before? The WiFi can be forcing the authentication every time you connect but it could also be at the router level, meaning if the Ethernet jack is connected to the same router it is possible that it is configured to still prompt for sign in. If you know that's not the case and an Ethernet connection is directly connected with a live connection then you're good to go this route. If your internet is provided, you don't actually need a router. You simply need an access point. It has no routing capabilities and only broadcasts a WiFi network that runs back through the network. Here's a great inexpensive option for what you are looking for.

TP-Link Wireless N300 2T2R Access Point, 2.4Ghz 300Mbps, 802.11b/g/n, AP/Client/Bridge/Repeater, 2x 4dBi, Passive POE (TL-WA801ND) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UBU8IE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TE-RBbJN4BZ41

Setting it up as an access point will assure you don't have to do any more advanced network configuration due to double NAT or relaying DHCP servers.

u/neonturbo · 5 pointsr/winkhub

No, it isn't Wifi. It is probably better off being "hard wired".

I haven't done this with Hubitat, but there was a different device that I wanted to hook up wirelessly, and I ended up using a "wireless access point". This is the one I used (less than $25) but there are others out there too. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UBU8IE

It certainly would add complication to the network, and might cause delays, but otherwise should work.

u/yourwhiteshadow · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

I think the steam controller dongle is RF. in any case, the kinivo BTD-400 works well or you can get the ASUS USB-BT400. in my experience though, these really only work well if you're withing 3-5 ft.

https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTD-400-Bluetooth-4-0-USB/dp/B007Q45EF4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498406729&sr=8-1&keywords=kinivo+bluetooth+usb

u/ACardAttack · 5 pointsr/Games

Anyone recommend a bluetooth device so I could connect a wiimote to my pc?

Would something like this work?

u/paticao · 5 pointsr/PleX

You can grab the Asus
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ABOJKS/ref=twister_B00NQQWQ3Y

Or you can get the nighthawk for 180 but can be found for less if you search online
http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00F0DD0I6

u/mag914 · 5 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Antennas aren’t your issue, your issue is that the router is quite dated.

It’s using 802.11n wireless technology, many many devices (most likely yours) are and have been using the new tech 802.11ac wireless. Which is much faster/reliable/etc.
Also your router only has one band, 2.4GHz which is often congested and slower older devices use this band. Newer devices use the 5GHz band which is faster, and new routers have dual band technology, which allows simultaneous use.

I highly recommend an upgrade. You and your wireless devices will appreciate the investment.

Edit: for $100 you can invest in this and that baby is sure to last you.
If that’s too much I can try to recommend something cheaper but you get what you pay for and I think that’s reasonable.

Any questions feel free to ask!

u/Booler · 5 pointsr/PS4

For anyone finding this thread via Google, the Asus BT-400 works great.

http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-USB-Adapter-Bluetooth-USB-BT400/dp/B00DJ83070

u/Trokeasaur · 4 pointsr/gadgets

I would highly recommend the Asus wireless routers. Great featureset, you can set up file sharing, guest networks, printer sharing. Super easy to do a basic set up as well.

If you want the latest and greatest in terms of the new wireless standards, this one is the way to go.

Slightly older but still will work for absolutely everything you would want to do would be this one here.

u/linkian19 · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I have that ASUS RT-N66U and it's been more than capable of all of my demands. I usually have around 13 devices on the network and it does well. Granted all of those devices aren't using the network at all times but the only issues I've had with any performance issues is due to poor signal (from basement to upstairs bedroom) so not really a problem in the sense that it's bad router, just my implementation. It also has a ton of features so if you want to delve deeper into networking it has a good range of extra stuff you can do if you're into that sort of thing.

I've got 100 Mbps from Comcast and whenever I have strong connection I get my full bandwidth (and then some) according to Speedtest. Looks like you'll have around 10 devices and depending on what your connection is the Asus router should be more than capable of serving all your needs. I've mine for a couple of years now and as I said earlier, no issues.

I might recommend spending a little extra and getting one that has wireless AC on it. That way whenever you upgrade devices that have AC capability you can use it and you'll be a little more "future proof."

Here's a link to basically the same router, but with AC: RT-AC66U

Another suggestion I have would be to go ahead and buy your own cable modem. This is modem I have. Since I own it I can take it with me. I don't get charged monthly to rent the modem/router combo from Comcast. You don't have to do this, but for a lot of people (including myself), it's nice being able to control your own hardware. I know that I received a new unit and not some refurbished unit that who knows how many people have used before me (this applies to routers as well).

Buying your own stuff and getting it set up is easy enough. Usually just have to call customer support or something and give what numbers they ask for. Then you're not paying extra per month to rent a modem.

Just my 2 cents on the matter. This response turned out a little longer that I thought it would, sorry 'bout that. Hope it helps.

u/sixniner · 4 pointsr/homelab

I am a noob, so listen to everyone else first. However, I can tell you what I've done:

I wanted to route all my internet traffic through a VPN tunnel. I tried this first on a DD-WRT router, but didn't have nearly enough processing power to keep up with my 60/3 mbps cable WAN.

So, I built a pfSense box with a Celeron 1037U mobo, 4 GB of RAM, and a mini ITX VESA case. Shipped cost was about $220. It has been in service for almost two years, and flawless except for a USB flash drive failure (I was running pfSense from the flash drive, and now I have an old 2.5" laptop hard drive installed instead). This setup easily handles OpenVPN AES-128 at 60/3--even without an AES-NI processor.

However, thanks almost entirely to this sub, I have caught the homelab bug and am expanding my network. I needed more ports, and started looking for something:

  • Fanless (it's dusty here)
  • 4 NICs
  • Low power
  • Embedded/internal storage

    So I picked up a Netgate RCC-VE 2440 and loaded pfSense on it myself. About $350. This blog post was extremely helpful.

    As for wireless access points, I'm using an Asus RT-AC66U with DD-WRT. It has been awesome! I briefly considered adding wireless capability to the 2440, but I wanted 802.11ac and I like being able to put the AP somewhere other than where the pfSense box is.

    For what you've described, you could save $75 and get the RCC-DFF-2220, or build a box yourself. Also, check in with the awesome peeps at /r/pfsense.
u/PiGuy2002 · 4 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I’m not sure if you want someone to give you a TL;DR or if you’re are saying OP should have put one.

Either way TL;DR: Buy an Ethernet adapter, It’s not that expensive, will give you a much better connection, and will make other people’s online experiences better as well. If you do get one, buy a USB 3-Ethernet adapter with an AX88179 chipset. Like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQM8586

u/drkaratechops · 4 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I went with this model.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQM8586/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Costs a little more but it's USB 3.0. I figured the inside port supports it and who knows if and when Nintendo will support dedicated servers.

Besides, there are plenty of other devices that support it.

u/Tolanna · 4 pointsr/wiiu

USB 3.0 devices work on USB 2.0 ports no problem. What matters here is what drivers are built in on the system, so if a USB 3.0 LAN adapter has the right chipset, it'll work (but operate at USB 2 speeds). I use this USB 2.0 adapter on my Wii U, and this 3.0 adapter on my Switch. The Switch supports both chipsets to allow compatibility with the older official adapter, but the Wii U doesn't support the newer gigabit adapter's chipset.

u/trich_ · 4 pointsr/wyzecam

was thinking of broadcasting my own network with a travel router in the room, like this hoo too one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HZWOQZ6/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00

Essentially setting up the authentication page and wifi from the cruise ship on the hoo too and then connecting the wyze cam to the hoo too.

u/evoken1 · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

>Modern WiFi is almost always better than powerline so it is not a surprise there.

I bought a cheapo Netgear $20 USB dongle in the meantime, and it's pretty awful. I have a chromecast and smartphone which I use alot and they have NEVER dropped out from my network using WiFi. However, my brand new USB dongle has dropped out about 4 times in 5 hours and the speed is very consistent, very frustrating to use and terrible for streaming video especially.

Is that because USB WiFi is trash in general, or because I just bought a cheap one? Should I look into buying a PCI-e WiFi card like this?

u/qupada42 · 4 pointsr/networking

Ubiquiti access point(s) and their "Cloud Key" controller for management/captive portal springs to mind.

Optionally, depending on how point-and-click you want the management for this deployment to be, also their "USG" router, and a US-8-60W PoE switch to complete the UniFi hardware set.

Amusingly, on amazon.de (used as an example to get EU pricing), those four items together come to €499.34 (UAP-AC-Pro, US-8-60W, USG, UC-CK). How's that for ever so slightly under-budget?

It would need a small amount of work customising the captive portal if you want to do social media logins - I've never done that personally, but someone might know the details. Their forums would be a good place to start if you want to look for someone who has done that, or general advice.

The gateway is definitely optional, and any cheap PoE switch would be fine (or non-PoE, as the AP will also ship with a PoE injector). The controller software can be run on any old PC or VM with 1-2GB of RAM (although I personally like the cloud key for convenience), so you could get the cost down as low as just the AP if you've got a switch and a spare computer.

It also gives you a nice ability to expand with another AP in future if this takes off and you need extra capacity, and a nice management interface which is optionally accessible over the internet without being on-site, which might be nice if you have to help troubleshoot this remotely.

u/softkarpet · 4 pointsr/networking

Thanks for all the advice. Got the boss to approve the budget for two PoE injectors, going to use two access points. After looking into it further, due to the heavy lighting and metal reflection, Wifi extenders probably aren't best-use.

Debating between these two access points:

https://www.amazon.ca/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Long-Range/dp/B015PRCBBI/

https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Wireless-Supports-Technology-EAP245/dp/B01N0XZ1TU/

Thanks for all the help! ^_^

u/Nexdeus · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I know what you need, you need a WAP that's meant for long distance signals. Ubiquiti has a few that also work outside.

One sec.

Edit:

Since I don't know what kind of ethernet situation you have in the main house, I've included a powerline adapter.

Ubiquiti UAP-AC-LR

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UAP-AC-LR-Networks-Enterprise-System/dp/B015PRCBBI

Powerline Adapter

https://www.amazon.com/Zyxel-Powerline-Gigabit-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00D7GF6NA


The way you would set this up:

Router -> Power line #1 -----> Power line #2 (electrical outlet nearest to the wall that's nearest to your house) --> Ubiquiti LR WAP, if you can mount it outside, even better.

Essentially, the powerline adapter will act as an ethernet run for this project, and will allow you to place the WAP on the wall that's nearest to your house from the main property. The LR (long range) WAP that I've chosen should be able to reach your area.

There are more expensive routes to go, but this should get the job done.

Edit:

Or...

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-PBE-M5-400-2-pack-PowerBeam-AirMAX/dp/B00UZ03UUW

If they don't mind having some little dishes outside.

u/gaso · 4 pointsr/pihole

I've been fantastically pleased with Ubiquiti UAP access points...except for the controller method of configuration. From a stability and throughput standpoint they're "fucking amazing". I got one a year or so ago to try out, after looking inside and seeing the dinky things they call antennas I was afraid I had just thrown away good money...

Beamforming really helps with getting signal where it actually needs to be, rather than just splattering it everywhere and hoping enough ends up wherever. It's no joke! We've got three metals buildings connected in a U-shape here, and I've never been able to get wifi to the far end of it, through multiple interior and exterior walls.

Threw one of these on the wall without consideration other than "wifi for these two offices that I hope to not have to reboot too often", and it just worked, automagicially, through our entire building. 24/7/365. It's not incredibly fast at the far end, but I'm amazed that it works at all. Seriously, the antennas look like tiny malformed paperclips...

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UAP-AC-LR-Networks-Enterprise-System/dp/B015PRCBBI/

Radiation pattern: https://community.ubnt.com/t5/UniFi-Wireless/Antenna-radiation-pattern-for-UniFi-AP-diagramm-inside/td-p/772468

I swear I'm not affiliated with them, for all I know they're just a scam to get backdoored hardware in every office of America. And I absolutely hate the java controller. But I love the coverage and reliablity...

Got a 5Ghz version a few months ago, and it moves some bytes: http://imgur.com/FJvMba0

u/thisisnttheusername · 4 pointsr/livesound

I had a spare Apple router laying around. Haven't had issues at 30-40ft or so. WiFi is a tricky business, because no matter where you go, the environment will always be different for WiFi channels.

A lot of places are broadcasting on 2.4g or 5g. So having a router/ap that does both is probably your best bet for flexibility.

If you're wanting something simple and cheap, just look at some basic home routers like Linksys (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014MIBLSA/ref=twister_B07FTFK622?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1).

If you are willing to do a bit more pre-setup (one-time) and have a greater throw for your WiFi, I would suggest an ubiquiti edgerouter and Ubiquiti long range access point (https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeRouter-Advanced-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00YFJT29C)
(https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Long-Range/dp/B015PRCBBI).
That'll get you DHCP and a longer distance than most retail routers.

If you need any more suggestions or have questions, let me know. I'm a certified network engineer.

Edit: the reason I like ubiquiti is because it scans the current environment for wifi channel conflicts and makes the appropriate adjustments.

u/MoogleMan3 · 4 pointsr/buildapc

I'm currently upgrading my own setup. What I decided on:

Ubiquity edge router 4

Ubiquity Unify AP-AC wifi access point

Not a cheap setup, but I'm done with high ping and weak wifi coverage.

u/siriuspunk · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Actually swapped out a TP-Link Archer C8 for this....https://www.amazon.com/RT-ACRH13-Dual-Band-AC1300-4-port-Gigabit/dp/B01LXL1AR8 and so happy I did. Best router I've owned in long time. We cut the cord also and we do a lot of gaming and TV streaming (mutliple devices) at same time and it handles the bandwith brilliantly. Good luck in your search.

P.S. We are also in a large 2 story house and coverage is excellent throughout.

u/robotsneedhugs2 · 4 pointsr/AskBattlestations

Get a switch. Plug ethernet from basement into switch. Get two new ethernet cables and plug each into PC and Xbox.

u/boaratio · 4 pointsr/AndroidTV

I've had no problems with this one from Amazon: Plugable USB 2.0 to 10/100 Fast Ethernet LAN Wired Network Adapter for Macbook, Chromebook, Windows 10, 8.1 and Earlier, Surface Pro, Wii, Wii U, Linu https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00484IEJS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_WNPNa6POX637P

Worked right away, and never disconnects. My only issue with the Mi Box so far is that every few days Google Play movies won't work until I reboot. Not a big deal though.

Good luck!

u/beaub05 · 4 pointsr/xbmc

I've got both. FireTV ran XBMC really well out of the box and it still does. I got the Nexus Player a couple weeks ago and it's currently running version 13.2. It navigates the menus just as well as the FireTV, but playback of media is where I have issues.

I get random crashes to the home screen during playback regardless of file type. My enterprise grade wireless N AP is one foot away from the Nexus Player and higher bit rate 1080p media stuttered constantly. So I bought a usb to ethernet adapter, which now works much better.

I plan on upgrading to the 14.2 beta on both devices when I get the time which some people are saying fix some of the playback issues for the Nexus, but right now, just for XBMC, I'd recommend the FireTV.

u/pandarossa · 4 pointsr/italy

hai due opzioni

  • pigli quel router e sostituisci quelo che hai
  • pigli un access point e lo attacchi al router che hai


u/azgoodaz · 4 pointsr/xboxone

You would like to get:

  1. Access Point
  2. Adapter

    This will give coverage to your whole house. It will run you about ~ $60 dollars.
u/[deleted] · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Meh, avoid lowgrade Dlink. i'd go no lower then this guy: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1750-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B079JD7F7G

For something more sturdier and longer last in regards to hardware specs and heavy internet loads, this one:
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-R6700-Nighthawk-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00R2AZLD2

u/insdog · 4 pointsr/beermoney

Get this and this and you'll never have a problem ever again

u/kheszi · 4 pointsr/printers

Unless you have specific reasons to keep the networks separate, and considering that this problem might come up again in the future: you might consider bonding the two internet connections together and making the combined connection available to a single local network. You would first need a gateway capable of load balancing or WAN bonding. One such gateway would be the Ubiquiti USG which is both highly-rated and very inexpensive (about $100). This device sits at the perimeter of your network, acts as your security firewall and can accept up to two WAN (outbound internet) connections. Unlike other professional solutions, this one requires no annual contract or ongoing license fees. This remarkably inexpensive device can optionally be combined with Ubiquiti's other solutions such as their VOIP phone system, wireless antennas, security cameras, and Cloud Key, to provide a unified high-performance professional solution for your business.

https://www.ubnt.com/unifi-routing/usg/

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Security-Gateway-USG/dp/B00LV8YZLK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527712928&sr=8-1&keywords=ubiquiti+usg

As suggested by /u/vigilias, your question suggests an underlying problem with the network that, if possible, might be better corrected by making changes to your network rather than resorting to a work-around. The networking subreddit would be a good resource if you choose to tackle this one on your own. Alternatively, you might consider hiring a local IT consultant to advise you on implementing a solution like the Ubiquiti USG.

Also note that some workgroup laser printers, such as HP LaserJet 42xx/43xx series, have multiple expansion card slots which can accept additional network cards. By adding additional inexpensive cards, it is therefore possible for some LaserJet printers to be available on multiple networks simultaneously.

https://www.amazon.com/HP-J3113A-JetDirect-Print-Server/dp/B0009MAU36

u/Jedi_Pacman · 4 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Don't buy this one. It's $27 which is way too much for a LAN adapter. This one is less than $12 and works with the Switch just fine as well.

u/jpyounis1 · 4 pointsr/Fios

Figured. You can try to call back during the day and speak with a fiber engineer (if there is any due to the strike), and have them check to see if its self install ready.

Internet only you dont need their routers. The ONT is in/outside your property right? you can run a cat6 ethernet line from the ONT to your own router and be done with it. Their may be provisioning needed on VZ's end but that should be it.

My assumption would be they are defualting a tech out to not only run that line, but upgrade the ONT if its not rated for that speed.

For your own routers, i have a RT-AC68U Asus as well as many others, and its perfect. Otherwise i recommend the TP-Link archer C9 - http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-AC1900-Archer-C9-Wireless/dp/B00PDLRHFW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1464698899&sr=8-2&keywords=ac1900+router

Both should be fine, my Asus AC68U covers my 2 story house with 5 bedrooms + basement perfectly, the router is on the 2nd floor. (moving it downstairs soon).

If you have a very large house - or old house with plaster & steel lath walls consider this - , big price but i've installed this for a few people in similar situations and it was great. http://www.amazon.com/Dual-Band-Wireless-AC3100-Gigabit-Router-RT-AC88U/dp/B016EWKQAQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464698973&sr=8-1&keywords=asus+ac+3100

u/kpanzer · 4 pointsr/buildapcsales

I haven't used this particular model but I did buy the TP-Link AC1900 (~$89.99) about 2 months ago and it's been a fantastic router.

u/Jiggajonson · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I just purchased this http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Archer-C9-Wireless-Beamforming/dp/B00PDLRHFW

In December because of my aging router and my growing number of wifi devices.

I could not be happier.

My Internet connection was always solid, but my router was holding me back. Here's a speed test from my phone from 3 rooms away:
http://imgur.com/FPlv16N

I've yet to test in the yard but my signal stays solid enough that I haven't thought about testing.

Half of my devices are on the lower band, the other half are on 5g (streaming devices, my own phone :-)

I read a LOT of reviews before my purchase and decided to gamble on this new model based on the performance of TPLINKs cheaper routers.

I was not disappointed.

u/QuadTechy88 · 3 pointsr/htpc

Might I suggest a more prosummer solution.

Look at ubiquiti gear. It’s what I run at my home and we deploy there access points and switches at over 200 customers. They are excellent for the price

Gateway/router
Ubiquiti Unifi Security Gateway (USG) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LV8YZLK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HE45BbH0YVZR8

8 port Poe switch
Ubiquiti UniFi Switch 8 60W (US-8-60W) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MU3WUX1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hF45BbGNDVBBR

Access point
Ubiquiti Networks Unifi 802.11ac Dual-Radio PRO Access Point (UAP-AC-PRO-US) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRO512/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XF45BbNXXZSJ2

These products will allow you to make sure your wireless network is on something with the least interference, you can also band steer clients to use the less congested 5ghz band all on the same wireless network. Instead of having to make a separate one 2.4 and 5. Which is what most all in one home devices do.

This will over all be a much more flexible system as well. Find an area that doesn’t have good WiFi coverage. Run a cable and add an AP there, or they can even mesh and do it with out a cable.

u/wolffstarr · 3 pointsr/homelab

This is going to be very dependent on how deep into the weeds you want to be getting with your setup. We've got one key, being "needs to do gigabit internet". Another is you seem to be looking for gigabit/AC wireless. You also mention needing an AP on the far side of the house.

Do you expect that the router will have wifi capabilities on it's own? Some of the options that I know will handle gigabit throughput don't have built-in wireless.

The "easy" answer - meaning, if you just want good stuff that works well enough and don't want to learn all there is to know about networking before you get your LAN running - is to go with Ubiquiti gear. An EdgeRouter Lite will do gigabit for your router (as long as you don't get fancy, like trying to do QoS/rate shaping) for about $90.

You would then need at least one AP to handle the wireless, for which a UAP-AC-Lite would probably work okay - that's about $80.

For getting the ball rolling, just about any 8 port "dumb" switch would do, but you can get a TP-Link TL-SG108 gigabit switch for $30 on Amazon right now. You'd almost certainly want to replace that eventually, but it won't be useless and it's a good price.

Eventually you could look at getting a 16 port Ubiquiti switch and another AP or two if you have a large area to cover, and there's options for unified configuration setups I believe.

If you really want to get snazzy, spring for the Unifi Security Gateway which is the same hardware as the EdgeRouter Lite, but works with the Unifi controller software. Get that, as many APs as you need, and a Unifi switch and you can (eventually) run a VM for your Unifi controller to configure all of it through one, locally controlled web page.

u/NW3 · 3 pointsr/Fios

Crap, sorry. Forgot I had a security gateway in between. But yes, that's it. ONT -> Security Gateway -> Switch

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LV8YZLK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/ButThouMust · 3 pointsr/wii

I play the GameCube version of Phantasy Star Online regularly, and the GC PSO community widely recommends this adapter for people who play it on a Wii. If you're curious, the Wii requires a particular chipset (ASIX AX88772 or AX88772A), and the adapter also works with my Switch.

u/ylerta · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Look into power line adapters paired with Ethernet adapter. I'm in a similar situation and this is my solution and it works perfectly. it's an expensive solution but you can use the power line adapter for PC's and other things in the basement. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01929ESG6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eG39Bb73F41RT
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYT481C?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

edit: also note this is not an invasive option since you just plug in the power line adapters, then plug one side into your router and one into the Ethernet adapter

u/BaC0nz13 · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I bought this one back in June. It worked straight out of the box on my Switch.

u/TemptedTemplar · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

this one will work according to another user, Im sure 90% of USB 2.0 to ethernet adapters will work. but other users have had less success with USB 3.0 adapters. which wont really make a difference unless your connection is over 50mb/s.

u/napper906 · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Wrong. I ordered this one and it works like a charm.

u/6tennis · 3 pointsr/pokemon

The online play is alright, but because of the nature of the Wii U's wifi connection, it's nearly impossible to get good netplay without the use of a LAN adapter.
This is the one I use - it's cheap, and it's always been perfect for me: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MYT481C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you need a guide on how to get one set up, that exists too: http://www.pokkenarena.com/forums/topic/560-your-handy-guide-to-lan-adapters
Once you're all done with that, come to the Discord to get some friendlies, as you're not guaranteed to fight people with good connections on Ranked: discord.gg/pokken
Hope I could help!

u/krys2015 · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

First thing first what speed are you actually paying for? That will determine equipment for the most part.

Best bet is to get a dumb modem and a separate router. While I can't find a proper list of approved modems, silly comcast, the Arris Surfboard always gets solid reviews, coming in at $45. It tops out at 343 Mbps download and 131 upload speeds. I've never had comcast or any dealings with them, so anyone else that does please feel free to chime in.

As for router, I've been a fan of TP Links product, so I'd recommend the TP-Link Wireless Router AC1900. It will give you 4 gig ports, its dual band, meaning both 2.4 GHz (up to 600 mbps) and 5 GHz (up to 1300mbps) for wifi, priced at $90. That will keep you under the $200 price range and give you good service.

Edit; words are hard

u/halogrand · 3 pointsr/canada

This is the one I've got. No issues, fast and reliable. Can't remember the last time I had to restart it.

hhttps://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Wireless-Router-1300Mbps-Beamforming/dp/B00PDLRHFW/ref=pd_sim_147_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ENJSMSDPWG5TP71AB573

May seem expensive, but for the most part you get what you pay for.

u/mrchaotica · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Don't get a combo router/modem; it unnecessarily limits your options and it's annoying when your device ends up half-broken or half-obsolete, but the whole thing has to be replaced at once.

modem:


Check the approved device list for your tier of service and buy whatever's cheapest (except that if the list still contains DOCSIS 2.0 devices for some reason, ignore those and get a modem that is at least DOCSIS 3.0). If you shop around for cable modems you'll notice that they're labeled as "MxN": M is the number of downstream channels and N is the number of upstream channels, which determines the maximum connection speed the modem supports. IMO 8x4 (which corresponds to 343 Mbps download) is the current value-for-money sweet spot; unless you plan to switch to a faster service than that within the next couple of years it's not worth paying extra for future-proofing.

The Arris/Motorola SB6141 ($40 on Amazon) is a popular choice.

router:


If all you care about is Internet access speed (i.e., the thing that's limited by your 70 Mbps connection) then even an old 802.11N router would be good enough, let alone an AC one. If you care about transferring files and/or streaming between computers within the house, then having gigabit ethernet and 802.11 AC (and dual-band/MIMO/other buzzwords/etc.) starts to become more important.

Don't pay extra for fancy software features (security, antivirus, parental controls, etc). Instead, pick a router that is supported by open-source third-party firmware such as LEDE, which can turn even a basic router into a pseudo-"enterprise"-level device with every fancy feature you could possibly imagine. (Subject to hardware limitations, of course!) (If you decide to care about third-party firmware support, pay close attention to exactly what hardware you're getting, including the revision number. Sometimes hardware changes in ways that break compatibility without any way to tell just from reading the outside of the package.)

Also pay attention to the physical form-factor of the device (this goes for the cable modem too, by the way). If you want it to lay flat on a surface instead of standing up on its edge (or vice-versa), make sure it actually supports being used that way. For example, this piece of shit would have been a great device, except that some dipshit designed it such that it can't sit flat or hang on a wall. It's asinine!

I concur with /u/JustBeefTaco in recommending the TP-Link Archer C7. In addition to the reasons he said, it's also good because it's supported by LEDE. My own home network runs on an Archer C7 (running LEDE 17.01)

That said, if you wanted to "do it right" using one access point per floor, then you'd put a non-wi-fi router such as this Mikrotik in the basement next to the cable modem, and then connect it using gigabit ethernet to ceiling-mounted access points on each floor. (Disclaimer: I haven't researched this kind of setup, so I don't know if these are the best devices to choose.) Note that the devices I listed support PoE (Power over Ethernet), which IMO would be important for that kind of more permanently-installed setup.

u/Buelldozer · 3 pointsr/computertechs

Any one of these:

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BUSDVBQ?keywords=tp-link&qid=1452378556&ref_=sr_1_1&s=pc&sr=1-1

http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00PDLRHFW

http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B010UR8AM2

http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00YY3XSSA

There was an enormous thread over on /r/sysadmin a couple weeks back (over 1,000 responses) and these tp-link models were among the most popular. The Archer C9 model is the first one with a dual CPU and has 128Meg of RAM and is reasonably priced.

u/lome251 · 3 pointsr/Surface

Having issues connecting to my new TP-Link AC1900 DualBand router still. It loses Internet from both the 2.4 GHz and 5Ghz signals after about 2-3 mins. I can connect to the old Verizon Router no problems.

u/dfnj123 · 3 pointsr/Nanoleaf

I know exactly what you're talking about. I don't think there is an easy way to do this. The problem is that Macs automatically change their built-in output to headphone output when a cable is inserted into the headphone jack. I just double checked Apple's Audio MIDI Setup utility, and you can't create an aggregated output device with both the built in speakers and the headphone jack in that application.

BUT what you can do in Audio MIDI Setup is create an aggregated output device between the built in speakers and a bluetooth receiver, so if you picked up a wireless bluetooth receiver you should be able to setup playing audio simultaneously from your Mac and the Rhythm. A cheap bluetooth receiver like this one from Logitech should work: https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Bluetooth-Audio-Adapter-Streaming/dp/B00IQBSW28/

Another option that's a little easier to setup would be to use a program like Rogue Amoeba's Airfoil and a Chromecast Audio. I used this setup myself with my Rhythm for about the past year. Airfoil is a great little program that lets you sync up audio between your computer, Apple's Airplay, Google's Chromcast Audio, Sonos, Bluetooth, etc. It's like the Swiss Army Knife of playing audio from a lot of different sources.

https://www.rogueamoeba.com/airfoil/

https://store.google.com/product/chromecast_audio

Chromecast Audio is also still $15 at a lot of places at the moment due to on going Black Friday/Cyber Monday sales, so it could actually be cheaper than that bluetooth adapter I posted above (though you'd have to spend $30 on the Airfoil program as well to use it with a Mac).

Feel free to let me know if you have any questions about figuring out your situation. I'm not an expert, but I feel as though I went though enough trial and error before settling on my current setup that I might be able to point you in the right direction.

u/Armsc · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

You could get something like this Logitech bluetooth adapter for $25. They work very well and are very affordable.

u/CommonCut4 · 3 pointsr/BuyItForLife

I have the older model of this:

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Bluetooth-Audio-Adapter-Streaming/dp/B00IQBSW28/ref=dp_ob_title_ce

Had it for at least 5 years and have no complaints.

u/Alan-anumber1 · 3 pointsr/audiophile

A Chromecast Audio is a good solution. It sounds better than my Logitech Bluetooth adapter and the range is as good as your WiFi coverage.

The Chromecast is more expensive but has whole house range and sounds better. The Logitech has about a 20 ft range in my house and sounds thin in comparison to the Chromcast.

u/Converseallstar95 · 3 pointsr/WiiHacks

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IQBSW28/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YSN6Ab3ZGBYRJ

Not sure if something like this would work for output. But if it did. Get a RCA splitter to split from the Wii to the TV/Bluetooth box and not have to worry about moving cables. Then just mute the TV and connect to Bluetooth. Like I said, not sure if something like that does output.

u/MEatRHIT · 3 pointsr/Weakpots

I just picked this up and it works well for bluetooth, pretty decent range. There are cheaper ones out there but I don't know that I trust them and their ranges are all over the place and they aren't that much cheaper. I also have logitech's old version of that one from about 5 years ago and it's still going strong in my garage now.

u/brianbot5000 · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I have this one - http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IQBSW28/

Works fine, good reviews, good range, and hooks up to your stereo via either RCA jacks or a 3.5 mm line. Any ancient stereo can usually accept an RCA jack. The one thing I don't like is that it automatically connects when you're in range, which is fine for some devices but I use it with my phone and don't always want my phone connecting. Still, others may like the auto connect.

u/KushOveride · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I would suggest a full Ubiquiti Unifi Wifi setup. Who is the ISP? Depending on what they use for a modem/gateway, you could setup a Unifi Security Gateway(USG) as the main router and connect Unifi AP in the rooms with ethernet jacks where you want the most wifi. Unfi includes software that makes controlling and configuring the different AP effectively, and even securely from remote. If you have a fiber ISP with a gateway with SFP ports, I would suggest the USG Pro, otherwise the USG is more prudent. There are many different kinds of Unifi AP, from Unifi AC, to Unifi HD(Faster Wifi AC), Unifi LD(bit slower then AC but Longer Range) to Unifi Mesh when you need wifi coverage where you don't have a ethernet jack.

The main thing you need is computer with either Windows or OSX to run the controlling software. AFAIK the USG can record logs and configure AP, however you need the controlling software to interact with the USG and configure it in the first place.

If you have a dedicated PC that can always be on, then Ubiquiti Edge Router X(ERX). This would slightly complicate setup, but allow you separate hardware for LAN(ethernet) from WLAN(Wifi). There is the Unifi Network Management System (NMS) that could incorporate the different devices, but it's still in beta.

u/Judman13 · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Getting this out of the way. USG and UAP-AC Lite. $190 from Amazon.

Or Edgerouter X and UAP-AC Lite. $130 from Amazon (rock solid reliability, but less user friendly)

You can upgrade to UAP-AC Pro is you have devices that can use its spec's. $169 for the AP from Amazon.

u/beholder95 · 3 pointsr/chartercable

Don’t buy that modem - let them give you one and just get your own router.
If you want maximum performance invest in a delegate router and separate access point.
I swear by the ubiquiti products and highly recommend their UniFi security gateway ( router) and AC-Pro access point.

Ubiquiti Unifi Security Gateway (USG) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LV8YZLK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xQCKBbWHTSG35

Ubiquiti Networks UAP-AC-Pro-E Access Point Single Unit New (No PoE Included in Box) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079DSW6XX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dSCKBb1FA8XYQ

I’ve got this in my house along with several family members and it’s rock solid on both 2.4 and 5ghz bands.

u/yearlycastle · 3 pointsr/PS4

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007Q45EF4/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1448955529&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX110_SY165&keywords=bluetooth+dongle+windows+10&dpPl=1&dpID=41cwsdCBTpL&ref=plSrch


I have windows 10 and this adapter works perfectly with it. This adapter really has great range too. So comfy on my couch using my ds4 controller wirelessly playing on pc.

u/Hello-their · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

This is more than you asked for, but I have this Asus router and I can't recommend it enough. The speed is great, and the admin UI is very easy to use. I'm actually buying 2 more to replace very old DLink access point and bridge, as this router can act as router, access point and bridge.

u/coeruleumblue · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I'm not exactly sure what your needs are, but I've had good luck with this router: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ABOJKS

u/lantech · 3 pointsr/wireless

Cheap? That's relative especially with those specs required...
I like Asus lately:

http://www.amazon.com/RT-AC66U-Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1750-Gigabit-Router/dp/B008ABOJKS

The Netgear Nighthawk is more:

http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00F0DD0I6

Are you sure you need a router though? It might be you just need an access point.

u/DoctorWorm_ · 3 pointsr/hardware
u/Lickingmonitors · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I'm not sure. My home network works fine atm. I'm giving my current ASUS router to my mother, and am looking for an upgrade.
I thought I could come here and see recommendations for a fast newer router, but I'm seeing this Ubiquity option, and am interested.

u/houndazs · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Asus AC66U. I have it, and it's glorious!

u/utmba_72 · 3 pointsr/GameDeals

We used powerline in our old house just fine, but circuits and appliances caused issues in our current home. I found that a MoCA adapter worked much better for us than the powerlines ever did. Here's an article on powerline vs MoCA if you're interested.

u/v-_-v · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

If you can run an ethernet line alongside the coax, that will be your best bet. If you cannot, look at MoCA adapters. They are a bit more expensive, but generally work a whole lot better than powerline does.

See, powerline uses the electrical wires in your home, and depending if they are any decent (most times they are not), or if you have a lot of stuff going through the same breaker, or just usage on the line, the communication between powerline adapters will be shitty.

You cannot tell before hand if they will work (powerline) and just have to try.

 

Having a coax line already run, if you can use that one, you can just have two devices at each end that translate ethernet into coax and back again. This is what MoCA adapters do.

These should do the trick.

If you have a good store where you can return stuff, the you can always try powerlines and see if they work, else return for MoCA...

u/bothunter · 3 pointsr/techsupport

There are Ethernet over Coax adapters available. There appears to be a MoCA standard which gives you 270mbit over existing coax: http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Ethernet-Adapter-without-Routers/dp/B008EQ4BQG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414618153&sr=8-1&keywords=MoCA

u/harman_B · 3 pointsr/homelab

I had the same problem. I have COAX running throughout my house already and did not want to drill holes and patch drywall so I bought some MOCA adapters and I have been very impressed! I hooked one up to the router and now I have "ethernet" everywhere there is a coax port. Basically all you do is split the coax going into your modem, run one coax to the modem from the splitter and the other coax goes to the moca box . Then you plug an ethernet cable into the router from the moca box. Then you take the other box and take it to wherever you want ethernet and plug the box in, connect the coax to the wall and the ethernet from the box to the device you want to connect.

https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Ethernet-Adapter-without-Routers/dp/B008EQ4BQG/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1501303854&sr=8-9&keywords=actiontec+moca

u/RansomOfThulcandra · 3 pointsr/techsupport

You can do it yourself.

Assuming none of your existing equipment supports MoCA, you can get a two-pack of adapters like one of these:

Edit: Note that MoCA 2.x is newer and faster than MoCA 1.x, but other than that they work the same, and are compatible with each other.

  • https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013J7O3X0

  • https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019MDRX5A

  • https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008EQ4BQG

    If one of the devices already supports MoCA (TiVO, some Verizon modems, etc), you can just get a single adapter instead of the two-pack.

    You'll also need to get MoCA-rated splitters for your basement (or wherever the cable lines in your house run to). Either get one with as many outputs as your existing splitter and replace it completely, or get a smaller one and use it to split the signal from your main splitter into the cable for each room where you want to use MoCA. You want something like these, but there are many options with different port counts:

  • https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00558UJTO

  • https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00556LI1E

  • https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M34OZ2S

    Finally, you need a Point-of-Entry filter to prevent your MoCA signal from leaking out to your neighbors through your cable connection. You put it on your cable line before your splitter(s) and it blocks the MoCA signal from passing through:

  • https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DC8IEE6

  • https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M4ODQTS


    Edit: My setup is cabled as follows:

    The cable tv / Internet line enters my home in the basement. I have the Point-of-Entry filter screwed onto the cable, and then into a MoCA splitter. Coax cables run from the splitter to various rooms in my house.

    In the room with my modem and router, I have a cable from the wall jack to the "coax in" side of a MoCA adapter. I have a short cable from the "tv/stb" side of the MoCA adapter to my modem. There is an ethernet cable from the modem to the WAN port on my router (this gives my router its Internet connection), and then an ethernet cable from a LAN port on the router to the ethernet port on the MoCA adapter (this gives the MoCA network access to the Internet).

    In the room with my TV, I have a cable from the wall jack to the "coax in" side of another MoCA adapter. I have don't actually use cable TV service (just Internet), but if I did, I would have a cable from the "tv/stb" side of the MoCA adapter to my TV. There is an ethernet cable from the MoCA adapter to my Roku to provide it with Internet access through the MoCA network.

    I actually use this adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CZ6WC3A by my TV rather than one of the smaller ones, because it has four ethernet ports instead of one. I bought it before MoCA 2.0 devices were available. If you only have one ethernet port on your adapter but need to connect multiple devices, you can get a small network switch instead. I was just trying to avoid extra boxes next to my TV.
u/imadethis2014 · 3 pointsr/techsupport

Don't re-wire your phone plugs to be Ethernet unless they are all home-run (meaning each jack goes to the basement, and not daisy-chained together) Also, I would only consider this if they are CAT5e runs (not CAT5 or CAT3, or simply phone wire)

You could use any of these other options...

u/thgintaetal · 3 pointsr/networking

I don't live in a FiOS area anymore, so I can't actually give you a step-by-step guide. You're going to have to figure out a lot of this on your own.

Here's a brief primer on FiOS MoCA:

MoCA is a system for transmitting IP over coaxial cable. In most FiOS installs, there's actually MoCA running on two different frequencies: First, the WAN-side connection from ONT to the primary (in 99% of installs, only) Actiontec router, which IIRC runs at 1000 MHz. Second, the LAN-side connection from the router to any cable boxes and other MoCA devices, which runs at 1150 MHz, and is bridged to the router's WiFi and LAN ethernet ports. You're going to want to get your second router to listen to this 1150MHz signal, but not to act as a DHCP server.

If you disable the 1000MHz (again, not sure this is correct, but it's labeled as something like WAN Coax) MoCA connection, your secondary Actiontec won't have any way to connect to the ONT directly, which is what you want.

The first problem that comes to mind with this setup is getting the non-WAN Actiontec to run a DHCP client on the LAN side. The easiest way around this is probably to configure it using a static IP address in the same subnet, but outside of the primary router's DHCP range, which I believe you can do pretty easily.

Good luck!

u/nickdanger3d · 3 pointsr/cordcutters

Do you have coax in the rooms? You can use a MoCa bridge to connect them. Works great for my house.

Powerline networking only works if you're on the same circuit in my experience.

u/jmajorjr · 3 pointsr/xboxone

I really like over coax. Amazing speed!

Actiontec Ethernet over Coax Adapter Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008EQ4BQG/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_123dvb1JXADND

u/thelwanderer · 3 pointsr/smashbros

Assuming you mean LAN Adapter? I got this one and it works great: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQM8586

For the cable itself you can get just about any Cat5E/Cat6 cable of the length you need and it should work fine.

u/4858693929292 · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQM8586

This is the one I have.

u/JaceSSB · 3 pointsr/smashbros

Umm to be honest your probably fine with the one you have. The reason I recommended the one there is because I have the 100MBPS UGREEN one and it works great and have had no issues. Even things as far as having the Ethernet cable stay securely into the adapter on these is nice which I have had one other where that was an issue. But yeah I imagine the Nintendo ones are great so you should be good with that!

EDIT: Nevermind someone mentioned before that there is a specific chipset for Ethernet adapters that is best for the Switch so if you don't have it might be best to upgrade. Here is the one I found for the best price that they recommended: https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Ethernet-Gigabit-Network-Adapter/dp/B00AQM8586

u/FlickFreak · 3 pointsr/AndroidTV

Anything with the ASIX AX88179 chipset should work fine.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M77HMU0/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYTSN18/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQM8586/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FFJ0RKE/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LLUEJFU/

All of the above should work with any Android based device. (ie. Shield TV, Mi Box or Fire TV)

u/luckman212 · 3 pointsr/PFSENSE

I don't think it'll be much better, but the AX88179 chipset (axge driver) is listed on FreeBSD's HCL[1]. Lots of adapters have this chipset, here's one for example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQM8586

Perhaps pfSense 2.4.4, with the new 11.2 kernel might bring some improvements. Looks like it's being released next week.

[1] https://www.freebsd.org/releases/11.2R/hardware.html

u/Hothabanero6 · 3 pointsr/Surface

Never seen a Surface like device with an Ethernet port. I doubt one exists. They are mobile devices so an Ethernet port is counter to it's primary function.

>absolute best (reliable & smallest) usb adapter for Ethernet?

Hard to say... reviews are scarce. There's this from 2013:
http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2415501,00.asp
Still a good choice and there are interesting options...
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B0095EFXMC/. 476 reviews 4.5 of 5

This from 2016 ... but 10/100??? Not fastest.
http://www.wirelesshack.org/our-picks-for-best-usb-to-ethernet-adapter.html
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B00ET4KHJ2/ 804 reviews 4.3 of 5


Amazon popularity contest and products I have had good luck with
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00BBD7NFU/ 807 reviews 4.2 of 5

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PC0H9IE/ref=psdc_13983791_t3_B0095EFXMC 584 reviews 4.7 of 5

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B00AQM8586/. 767 reviews 4.5 of 5


So maybe the Anker model however... would you want fries ports with that?

u/Ryvaeus · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

The Switch only supports LAN adapters that use a particular chipset. I have an Acer branded one which isn't recognized on the Switch, but one by Trendnet which is. I believe there's a list of supported adapters somewhere but I'm on mobile and lazy.

Edit: Adapters that use either the AX88772 (widely used, but slower than 802.11ac WiFi) or AX88179 (less common, but true gigabit speed) chipsets should work. According to the product page of this Plugable adapter, it should be compatible. Is this the one you bought?

u/Preclude · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Plugable USB 3.0 to Ethernet... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQM8586
This one is great. Bought two of them.

u/SpeedyBlueDude · 3 pointsr/smashbros

I have the exact same LAN Adapter it seems -

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQM8586/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Least I know that's good, and removes one of the issues. I'll buy a new Ethernet cable and see if that can be the quick fix.

u/AustinScript · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

Guys - this seller has a USB plug for 1000 dollars.
http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-USB-Adapter-Bluetooth-USB-BT400/dp/B00DJ83070/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&m=A20F6RQJB8XGLY


The store prices make 0.0% sense.

u/King_benhamin · 3 pointsr/buildmeapc

I would avoid Wi-Fi as much as you can but sometimes it's necessary. I have tried the dongle (usb) only to have an unstable connection and for it to crap out after a couple of months. I had a mid range tp-link card and that failed after a year, and it never gave me super stable connections. The card linked below is the one I have and I've been very happy with it.

ASUS PCE-AC68 AC1900 Dual-Band Wireless Pci-E Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F42V83C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-M-kDbAPWQ5NS

u/CatPurrMeow · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

The R7000 is capable of 900Mbps+ WAN<>LAN.

u/croy_00 · 3 pointsr/theNvidiaShield

This is what I am running at home, and it works flawlessly. I own both the portable and the Shield, and use both with this router without issue.

I am also running a wireless PCE-AC68 card from my PC, instead of wired, but again have zero issues.

u/freakingwilly · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

If you have the PCIE slot to spare, I highly recommend using that instead. You can get much better performance in both power and speed over the USB option. That being said, here are four recommendations based on your needs:

  1. USB, budget - BrosTrend, $26
  2. USB, performance - ASUS USB-AC68, $76
  3. PCIE, budget - TP-Link Archer T4E, $35
  4. PCIE, performance - ASUS PCE-AC68, $87

    Personally, I have the PCE-AC68 that I bought for $75 3 years ago and it's still rocking.
u/adanceparty · 3 pointsr/buildapc

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1900-Adapter-PCE-AC68/dp/B00F42V83C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1521657739&sr=8-2&keywords=asus+pce+ac88

I used this card when I was renting in someone's house, good card for the 6 months or so I used it. Moved somewhere else and went back to a wired connection, but it was the best card I tried.

u/draxenato · 3 pointsr/cordcutters

Will your roommates be able to afford their own service if you stop paying nearly half of it ?

Rather than sell the souls of your as yet unborn children to Verizon, have you thought about ethernet over power ? https://www.amazon.com/Extender-Powerline-Starter-300Mbps-Wireless/dp/B00HSQAIQU/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505064507&sr=1-2&keywords=ethernet+over+power+wifi

u/Novalok · 3 pointsr/techsupport

What you might want to look into are power line adapters. Something like this. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HSQAIQU/ref=s9_top_hm_b50jE_g147_i2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-11&pf_rd_r=06XWQR8D72M1RDXRX4M2&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_p=3b52e653-8edc-59d8-8d3e-b10a96ef91ed&pf_rd_i=1194444


What these do is allow you to use the existing wiring in your house via wall plugs. You plug one in by the modem/router and plug a cable in. Then plug the second half by your Xbox with a short cable from it to the Xbox.

Sounds about perfect for your situation 😊

u/minnesnowta · 3 pointsr/Chromecast

Two things off the top of my head:

  1. Buy a travel router like this one

  2. Buy a USB wifi dongle so your laptop has two wifi adapters, then you should be able to connect to the hotel wifi with one adapter and share the connection with the other one
u/Chess_tactician · 3 pointsr/googlehome

You could get a small travel router that can connect to a guest wifi and get you past the splash/log in page.

Then connect the Home to the travel router.

I have this one and have used it in hotels to bridge the guest wifi network.

https://www.amazon.com/HooToo-Wireless-Performance-TripMate-Hotspot/dp/B00HZWOQZ6

It can be powered with a USB cable off a laptop or cellphone charger.

Hope that helps a little.

(Note - I would only connect it to the guest network.)

u/mda90 · 3 pointsr/consulting

A travel hotspot/router solves that problem! I picked up the HooToo Travel Hotspot and just plug it into ethernet, or connect that to hotel Wifi. Then connect your Chromecast to the wifi given off from the hotspot and you're good to go, just like a regular wifi network.

u/Pier28inc · 3 pointsr/Dashcam

Get a HooToo nano wifi card reader, works great in iOS. It's only $17 on Amazon too (way cheaper and works better than the Kingston wifi card reader).
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HZWOQZ6/

u/JohnLockeNJ · 3 pointsr/jailbreak

Unfortunately with the demise of MyWi you will have to drop $22 on a HooToo TripMate Nano to do what you want https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HZWOQZ6/

u/NedSc · 3 pointsr/kodi

The Fire TV stick can only play media that is also connected to the network. You have to connect the USB stick to something, like a NAS or your computer. Or this: http://amzn.com/B00HZWOQZ6

u/sports_ftw12 · 3 pointsr/vinyl

3.5 mm to RCA. They run like $5 on amazon. Or if you want to go bluetooth then this. https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Bluetooth-Audio-Adapter-Streaming/dp/B00IQBSW28

u/nomnommish · 3 pointsr/answers

First things first - the cable modem and the wifi router are two completely separate things. In your specific case, the two things are integrated in one device - but I highly recommend not doing so.

Comcast charges a ridiculous amount of money for the "modem rental". Are you renting your modem/router from Comcast? If so, I highly recommend buying your own cable modem and wifi router. You will recoup the cost in just a few months from the rental savings. I'm saying this from personal experience - after spending 3 times the cost of the modem for just the rental fees.

The cable modem is a device which connects to your Comcast cable and lets you connect your other home devices to the modem. Even the cheapest most basic DOCSIS3 modem will support speeds that far surpass the actual internet speed you will buy from Comcast - and these are super reliable devices - so just buy the cheapest.

For example, this Arris refurbished model is available for $30. Non refurbished is $50 - although refurbished is honestly just fine. Consider that I was paying 8 bucks a month for the modem rental while I could have bought my modem outright for 30 bucks.

Now for the wifi router. This is mostly the real reason why people complain of poor internet speeds. And often this is because of poor wifi coverage to begin with - i.e. the wifi signal is simply not strong enough in all your rooms. As someone else said, the best thing you can do is to place your wifi router high up and in a central location that has the best "line of sight" to most rooms. Typically a central passageway, mounted high up on the wall. You would connect to your cable modem with an ethernet cable, by the way.

In my case, upgrading to a better more powerful wifi router with 4 antennas (from 2) made a huge difference. From my experience, I can recommend this Asus model which has 4 antennas and costs $67. There are many other models you can research and buy. It has run non-stop for over a year without requiring a reboot or without any of the flakiness I had with my other router that would randomly shut down or reboot itself. Wirecutter recommends TPLink Archer C7 which also costs $70 and they say it has really good coverage. Avoid the more expensive "802.11 AC" routers. This AC technology is great but is honestly overkill for your needs, just as you don't need to buy some expensive cable modem.

By the way, you can also download an app on your phone that will tell you how good your wifi coverage is in different parts of your house or establishment. Just search for "wifi coverage" or "wifi analyzer" in your app store. As someone also said, there are some advanced tweaks you can do. See this article, if you are so inclined.

Lastly, besides your wifi signal coverage and strength and quality of wifi router, your internet connection itself needs to be reasonably fast to support multiple users. Nowadays, everyone is streaming videos and such on their smartphones so everyone "needs" high bandwidth or fast internet. And all these multiple videos streaming quickly eat up your internet connection's bandwidth. What is interesting is that there isn't that much of a price difference between the different Comcast options. Or to put it another way, there is no $40 or $50 option at all. 25mbps is quite low to be honest - at least when multiple people hammering away at your internet. It is not horrible or anything - in fact it is perfectly decent for average home use - it is just not blazingly fast. There is a $10 difference between 25mbps and 100mbps, and a $3 jump to 200mbps. So if you don't mind the extra $13, you are in serious blazing fast territory. Consider that Netflix takes about 3-10mbps, so you can imagine that 200mbps will give you a lot of room and speed even with multiple users logged in and streaming high quality video. Else, you can start with 25mbps after you make all the other improvements to your setup, see how it goes. Then you can easily upgrade to 200mbps if needed.

u/cronson · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I bought this one used through Amazon Warehouse Deals recently and have been very impressed. Very good range. AC WiFi. Very inexpensive.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LXL1AR8/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1519397601&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Router

u/CyberForest · 3 pointsr/news

Yes! I use the TP-Link Archer A7 v5 (Amazon link, OpenWRT firmware link). The cable modem from my ISP is a modem/router combo, so I placed the ISP hardware into "bridged" mode after flashing OpenWRT to the router. After flashing, just use the router's new GUI to install "Adblock" and configure. If you have anymore questions I'd be happy to help. It was a nightmare for me setting it up by myself the first time.

u/sk9592 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I would get this very popular TP-Link router:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1750-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B079JD7F7G/

It doesn't cost too much, will have great coverage, and 4 gigabit Ethernet ports.

Frankly, right now is a terrible time to buy a "premium" router. WiFi 6 AX is right around the corner.

The WiFi 6 AX routers out so far are using the draft spec. The spec is expected to be finalized before the end of the year. We will probably see the second generation of AX devices a few months after that.

If you intend to spend $200 on a top of the line router, do it a year from now, not today.

u/spaanks · 3 pointsr/Spectrum

TP-Link AC1750 Smart WiFi Router - Dual Band Gigabit Wireless Internet Router for Home, Works with Alexa, VPN Server, Parental Control&QoS(Archer A7) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JD7F7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aRf4DbP1EV9Q5

i have this one and about 10 devices and it’s great.

u/FantasticPhenom · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I would divorce the two units (combination units tend to cut corners and if you ever get fiber internet or want to repurpose a part you're stuck).

My general suggestion would be SB6183 modem + (TP-Link Archer C7 or A7 or on sale Google OnHub for $70ish) - the google stuff is better out of the box(what I'd suggest a relative 1000 miles away would get), the TP-Link gear is MUCH more configurable and would give you better options if flashed (like SQM support).

This would all cost around $100-120ish which is a hair over your budget.

https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Surfboard-SB6183-RB-Certified-Refurbished/dp/B01ERK1JLM
https://www.amazon.com/Google-WiFi-Router-TP-Link-Managed/dp/B013ALA9LA
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1750-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B079JD7F7G

u/mixermixing · 3 pointsr/techsupport

Are you renting/leasing the router? For the cable internet setups, it's best to get a dedicated modem by itself and buy an external router. The AIO modem/router usually has compromises and not really upgradable if you want faster wifi speeds.

Since it's from 2010, I'd upgrade the setup completely with a new modem (depending on what your provider speeds are) and a router (TP Link Archer C9 because it's what I use and provides great wifi speeds when you have dual band devices).

u/bbsittrr · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Uquiti lites: about $80

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY

AC Pros: $95 each:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Long-Range/dp/B015PRCBBI?ref_=ast_bbp_dp

Six dudes:

EAP 225 about $130, $22 bucks each

AC Lite: $160, $27 bucks each (and you guys get free amazon prime still I think?)

AC Pro: $190, $32 each. Get some cat6 patch cables from Monoprice (or via amazon, with free shipping). You're good to go.

$22 to $32 bucks each: I'd skip a beer day, and pony up for the full AC pros.

u/CyberCam · 3 pointsr/homelab

Wow, you want to do all that with a Celeron Quad-core? If that's all I had I would throw CentOS 7 Minimal Server on it...
https://www.howtoforge.com/tutorial/centos-7-minimal-server/

For easy GUI administration use
Webmin: https://lintut.com/how-to-install-webmin-on-centos-7/

For TM Backups use NFS or SMB: https://www.unixmen.com/setting-nfs-server-client-centos-7/ https://lintut.com/easy-samba-installation-on-rhel-centos-7/

To enable NFS on Mac: http://www.serverlab.ca/tutorials/osx/administration-osx/how-to-connect-mac-os-x-to-nfs-shares/

For DLNA use Plex Media Server (enable DLNA in settings): http://brettspence.com/2014/11/17/installing-plex-media-server-on-centos-7/

For Web app hosting etc. use Apache or Nginx with MYSQL & PHP: https://www.howtoforge.com/tutorial/centos-lamp-server-apache-mysql-php/
https://www.digitalocean.com/community/tutorials/how-to-install-linux-nginx-mysql-php-lemp-stack-on-centos-7

Use Webmin to administer your virtualhosts using the Apache module or use this Nginx module: https://github.com/vixh/nginx-webmin

For NextCloud use this script https://github.com/PietsHost/Nextcloud-Installation-Script

For DIY IoT edge device/gateway, there's no better for the money than EdgeRouter X + UniFi AC AP (Lite/LR): https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-ER-X-Networks-Router/dp/B0144R449W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1494305813&sr=8-2&keywords=edgerouter+x

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494305859&sr=8-1&keywords=ubiquiti+ap+ac+lite

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UAP-AC-LR-Networks-Enterprise-System/dp/B015PRCBBI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494305879&sr=8-1&keywords=ubiquiti+ap+ac+lr

For VPN use OpenVPN (use this script): https://github.com/Angristan/OpenVPN-install
NOTE: With this script it remove passwords by default, just open the script up in a text editor and remove the "nopass" text (4 times) and your good to go! It's very easy to install and add/remove users.

Again, this is a lot for a small little machine to do, but this is how I would do it with the limited hardware you have.

Cheers!

u/taw94 · 3 pointsr/techsupport

You don't mention what your existing equipment is, but if it is typical consumer-grade stuff, like LinkSys, D-Link, Netgear, etc. you should be able to replace all of it with 5 good APs.

5 x Ubiquiti Unify UAP-AC-LR

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PRCBBI?th=1

Ubiquiti AP's are also centrally controlled and managed from a free app. You can monitor traffic, see which device is using the most bandwidth, etc. Excellent gear for the money.

u/sportscrazed2 · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Could you turn off the wifi of your current router and get something like this? http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Enterprise-System-UAP-AC-LR/dp/B015PRCBBI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459006172&sr=8-1&keywords=ubiquiti+lr it's an access point only but, it has power over ethernet so you aren't limited to being near a power outlet to use it. So if you could discretely run an ethernet cable from your router and mount it on a wall somewhere more central in your house you would get better coverage. Also as an access point is the main wifi hotspot. A repeater just well repeats that main hotspot to give more effective range. Just think of it like one of those baton races.

u/ItsThe50sAudrey · 3 pointsr/whatisthisthing

[uniquiti Acesss Point. ](Ubiquiti Unifi Ap-AC Long Range - Wireless Access Point - 802.11 B/A/G/n/AC (UAP-AC-LR-US) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRCBBI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xZlvCbQTYKBTQ)

u/MostlyWong · 3 pointsr/Whatcouldgowrong

I'm gonna level with you.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UAP-AC-LR-Networks-Enterprise-System/dp/B015PRCBBI/ref=dp_ob_title_ce

Buy one of these, make sure you get an LR model. They're industrial access points, and they work really well. Easy to use, nifty cloud controller you can join them to and do maintenance/change settings on the AP. One or two will absolutely cover your house, and the transition from one AP to another is seamless. It might not be a quarter mile coverage, but I connect to my wifi before I pull into my driveway at home.

u/NextGen28 · 3 pointsr/milwaukee

Going to copy/paste this from my history as its asked rather frequently on this sub.
--

Spectrum is fine, if you can get AT&T Fiber go that route. Check to see if you're able to get Fiber here;

https://www.att.com/internet/fiber.html

(Note, only their 1000/1000 speed is 'uncapped' -- the rest of their offerings, Fiber or DSL has a data cap)

For Spectrum, you're looking at:

200/10 (or) 400/20 (or) 940/35

The base tier is fine for the vast overwhelming majority of people. You'd probably know if you needed more speed than the base tier (Eg: Off site backups, serving up Plex to friends/family..etc) Spectrum also has no data caps on any of their speed tiers. You'll use a Spectrum modem (which they provide for free) but use your own router as they do charge a monthly fee for wifi. As far as what networking gear to get, that's easy.

Get yourself

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeRouter-Advanced-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00YFJT29C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1534877933&sr=8-1&keywords=ubiquiti+edgerouter + https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Long-Range/dp/B015PRCBBI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1534877954&sr=8-3&keywords=ubiquiti+access+point

and have worry free wifi. Don't bother with routers from Asus/Netgear/TpLink..etc. They're comparatively junk next to the ubiquiti equipment.

If you're going with Spectrum, use your own Wifi infrastructure. The Ubiquiti stuff linked above is a fantastic solution. The Spectrum provided modem will work fine, regardless of the tier you subscribe to

The 400/20 tier will probably get you an Arris TM1602 which is an absolute piece of trash as it uses the Puma 6 chipset. Read more about that here;

https://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/consumers-file-class-action-lawsuit-against-arris-for-defective-cable-modems-300433510.html

If you do sub to the 400/20 tier, I then suggest picking up your own modem, specifically, the Netgear CM600 as it does not use the Puma 6 chipset, but rather, a Broadcom BCM3384 and is an 'approved' modem by Spectrum.

The base tier as well as the Gig tier with Spectrum will get you a satisfactory modem at no additional cost.

Milwaukee has been activated as a "Gig" market for Spectrum, and has been for 4 months or so.

This means a speed of 940/35 is now available for most--if not all of the area. The gig tier does require a $200 technician visit as well as a Spectrum provided modem. Customer owned modems are currently not being provisioned for the gig tier. The Spectrum modem is a Technicolor TC4400, but there is no monthly charge for using the Spectrum provided modem.

u/HungryAnimal · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I used this to extend my wifi. Works very well, but you'll need to have it plugged into an ethernet port and to a power source if you don't have a PoE (power over ethernet) switch. https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UAP-AC-LR-Networks-Enterprise-System/dp/B015PRCBBI

u/MassOrbit · 3 pointsr/torrents

Are you using the wireless part of that combo? Their modem combo is your problem. What is the model number of your modem combo? Get this ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6190 and the NETGEAR Nighthawk and your troubles will end

u/VA_Network_Nerd · 3 pointsr/Ubiquiti

https://mydeviceinfo.xfinity.com/

If the company is paying, and you just want the best:

https://www.amazon.com/Next-Generation-ARRIS-SURFboard-SB8200-DOCSIS/dp/B07DY16W2Z/

If the company is paying, but they don't want to spend more than is necessary:

https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6190-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B016PE1X5K/

u/rtechie1 · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

You should buy the newer SB6190 instead. More future-proof.

u/hunleyd · 3 pointsr/eero

I generally prefer the 6190 over the 6183: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B016PE1X5K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Any reason to prefer the 83 over the 90?

u/slayerbrk · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I swapped my modem for a Motorola Surfboard and got a Netgear router haven't had any issues with the setup.

Note that I pay for the fastest internet spectrum offers amd plan to upgrade to fiber when spectrums competitor in my area lays the lines so my setup is a tad overkill.

u/spid3rfly · 3 pointsr/Louisville

I'm not sure how tech-oriented you are but ditch their equipment. Every time I move, the techs are always confused because I want my own router/modem.

I upgraded a few years ago to this router. I thought it was weird that Asus was making routers but I took the chance. I love it!

A lot of people complain about Insight > TWC > Spectrum > and who knows if it'll change again, but I've honestly never had any serious issues with them aside from middle of the night maintenance.

Not all but I think most of the complaints about their service come from people that rely on their equipment instead of buying their own. Note: I've also seen a post where people have had issues with Spectrum and their own equipment. It could be something on their side with the line. It's not too difficult to make them send someone to check the line and/or replace it. One of my friends needed this very thing and had me call... I called and they had a tech out the next day to check the line signal.

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Dual-Band-Super-Fast-Gigabit-RT-ACRH13/dp/B01LXL1AR8/ref=sr_1_3?qid=1564149927&refinements=p_89%3AAsus&s=pc&sr=1-3

u/soniclegend44 · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Honestly even though overkill, purchasing a higher end router (example: https://www.amazon.com/RT-ACRH13-Dual-Band-AC1300-4-port-Gigabit/dp/B01LXL1AR8/ref=pd_lpo_147_bs_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=P3SGBNKCHM67GC19P7ZR) is normally a good idea just for more features. Like MU-MIMO or Beam-forming tech. I personally use a AC1900 rated router for 75 10 internet.

u/chubbysumo · 3 pointsr/PleX

> I see there are very high priced switches and some for 50 dollars.

depends on how many wired devices you have. If you only have 5 wired devices, here is a 5 port switch for $15. if you have more than 4 devices, get an 8 port. if you have more than 7 devices, get a 16 port, ect.

>What should I look for my usage ?

a gigabit switch is a gigabit switch. What you are looking to do is remove the switching duty from your router, and let your router be a router and wifi access point only.

>Also how should i setup the wiring between the router, modem and switch ?

Leave the modem and router as you have them, and then just run a lan cable to the switch, and plug everything that is plugged into the router(except the modem) into the switch. It should go Modem>router>switch. This way, traffic from your server will stay on the switch, and will not clog up the routers processor.

u/jbourne0129 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Fuck I did not realize that either. The thing says 300mb/s and no gigabit ports and here I am thinking "well I definitely don't need 1000gb/s"

So instead of buying a new $100 router with gigabit ports, can I just get something like this to go between my modem and router so I can still get over 100mb/s wired to my computer and wifi everywhere else. Like Modem>gigabit switch/hub > router with my computer plugged into the switch/hub ?

u/ccobb123 · 3 pointsr/wireless

I really hope you're joking.

If you're not, buy this.

TP-LINK TL-SG1005D 10/100/1000Mbps 5-Port Gigabit Desktop Switch, 10Gbps Capacity
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N99BBC/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_7FZkub0JSQR12

u/drakofrost · 3 pointsr/xboxone
u/p1rke · 3 pointsr/AndroidTV

I bought this thing: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00484IEJS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uYrIybKSN8E92

Works well. Just plug it.

u/bqnguyen · 3 pointsr/techsupport

Absolutely nothing. DO NOT buy Apple's brand name products. The quality and internet speeds you will be getting are the same.

The likelihood that your bottleneck comes from the adapter is very low. Most likely you won't be receiving max speeds due to the college's internet service, not because your dongle isn't good enough. I recommend this adapter here.

u/japzone · 3 pointsr/cordcutters

If your Roku TV didn't come with an ethernet port, then you'll have to get some kind of Wifi router to plug into the ethernet and connect the Roku TV to that.

There are mixed reports of using USB-Ethernet adapters, but there's no easy way to know which ones are compatible as even different Roku TV models seem to have different results. I've seen mentions of this adapter working for some, but no guarantees can be made.

u/ZairXZ · 3 pointsr/wiiu

This is what i use for my Wii U (and also tried it on my Wii)

http://www.amazon.ca/Plugable-Ethernet-Network-Chromebook-Specific/dp/B00484IEJS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381096569&sr=8-1&keywords=wii+u+lan+adapter

I have even used the MH3U Packet Relay Tools (which requires a LAN adapter) and it works just fine.

u/Helixium · 3 pointsr/wiiu

http://www.amazon.ca/Plugable-Ethernet-Network-Chromebook-Specific/dp/B00484IEJS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420521458&sr=8-2&keywords=ethernet+wii+u

I live in Canada and I just bought this one a week ago for my new Wii U; it works perfectly. I have had no problems with it and it works right out of the box, plug-and-play. Made my connection much better for Smash Bros.

If this is the one you are referring to: http://www.amazon.ca/HDE%C2%AE-Ethernet-Adapter-Nintendo-Port/dp/B003XWD1G2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420521583&sr=8-1&keywords=ethernet+hde+wii+u

As long as it says it is specifically compatible with the Wii U, which it does (and so do the reviews), then you should be fine to get this one too. I can just personally vouch for the Plugable Technologies one.

u/mad212 · 3 pointsr/nexusplayer

USB ethernet adapters are hit or miss on the np. I bought one off amazon that didnt work. Then I bought this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00484IEJS/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and it did work.

u/blackbeansalad · 3 pointsr/theNvidiaShield

This is what I have used now for the past two weeks, plugging in this and my keyboard/mouse unifying receiver.

u/Pandomime · 3 pointsr/theNvidiaShield

This and this is what I use for console mode. This setup will let you charge and use Ethernet at the same time.

u/dantheman213 · 3 pointsr/television

I bring a wireless bridge with me ($25) to turn the hotel WIFI into my own personal WIFI hub. Then a Chromecast ($35) for the TV entertainment will connect to the bridge (so will my phone/tablet/laptop).

Here's the bridge I use on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-300Mbps-Repeater-TL-WA801ND/dp/B004UBU8IE

u/reepha · 3 pointsr/computers

This or this should work fine. I have used the cheaper one for a couple years and has worked fine for my uses (wii remotes, ps3 controllers, file transfers to my phone.)

u/starseed42 · 3 pointsr/emulation

I use this, and it works great.

u/SisterFister_ · 3 pointsr/RocketLeague

Here's one of the first ones that popped up

There's also one by playstation that you could check out but they're kind of expensive.

u/GIDAMIEN · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

all you need is a cheap switch, just plug everything in that looks like it should be plugged in and you'll probably be ok.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-SG1005D-1000Mbps-Gigabit-Capacity/dp/B000N99BBC/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1408048361&sr=1-1&keywords=gigabit+switch

u/Lurk-Threadwalker · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

What kind of "splitter" did you use?
You will need something like this.

Do you have a router in your network?

u/andrewthenetworkguy · 2 pointsr/networking

Just get a ethernet Switch like TP-Link Switch and share the ethernet port. This will be the cheapest and easiest way.

u/RBeck · 2 pointsr/cableadvice

So it's an ethernet switch, got it. If you cant find the power adapter you can just get a cheap new one.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N99BBC

edit: For UK...

Gigabit or 10/100

u/subuserdo · 2 pointsr/homelab

OK. Your diagram is pretty much identical to my current setup, which was build piece by piece over ~6 months. Cheap and functions well, but don't expect too much.

I run a PfSense box as a firewall, using this board and cheap processor, 4gb ram (overkill), small case, second NIC.

This is my switch, currently the shittiest part of my lab. it's cheap, but I want something nice to mess around with. Behind the switch I have an old wireless router that gives wifi, a NAS and a desktop, when I have some more money I hope to add an ESX host.

What kind of server do you want? If you want to run more than a few VMs/services you'll need something with enough ram and cores, which is expensive... Depending on how complicated you want your server to be, you can go with a hypervisor or a full OS.

I like PfSense a lot, but you need to read up on it and decide if you want to mess with it right now. You'll be fine without a firewall if you're careful with your outbound ports.

u/neogohan · 2 pointsr/PS4

>I see ones that go up to 100mbps and some that go up to 1000mbps but don't know what those numbers mean.

These are the maximum speed these switches can support. 100Mbps is roughly equal to 10 megabytes per second, while 1000Mbps (or gigabit) is equal to 100 megabytes per second. If you aren't copying a bunch of data between your home computers, then 100Mbps will work just fine. Though if your router is gigabit, you might as well drop the extra couple bucks to get a gigabit switch.

Any one will do. Desktop switches, while not 'dumb' hardware, are much less complex than routers. A cheap router will give you issues, most likely, but a cheap desktop switch will typically perform every bit as good as a pricey one. My recommendation is the metal case version of this model simply because it's cheap and sturdy.

u/noahhuotari · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Like others have said you are going to need a Switch. The 4 extra ports on your router are a built in switch. It's your LAN. The router separates your LAN from the Internet. Just connect a switch to a port on the router and connect the other devices. I have drawn you a diagram for the wiring. http://imgur.com/ic8amp5

u/dirk150 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Edgerouter X should be good enough, the Edgerouter 10X is the same machine with more RAM, more storage, and more ports. If you need the console and USB ports, get the ER10X. If you don't, get the ERX and add cheap unmanaged network switches to expand your wired capacity.

https://www.ui.com/edgemax/comparison/

u/t1n0m3n · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

This is how I have my setup.

Difficulty: Requires a managed switch.

GPON plugs into switch on VLAN10, router outside plugs into switch on VLAN10.

Router inside plugs into VLAN20, all other wired clients plug into VLAN20.

If you have a managed switch, just make sure that the outside has a different VLAN as the inside.

​

If you have a non managed switch:

Option 1: Coupler

Get an ethernet coupler and eliminate the switch for the WAN side altogether.

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Coupler-Ethernet-Extender-Adapter/dp/B016B13UBM

Search: Cat6 ethernet coupler

(I searched for illustrative purposes only, there maybe cheaper ones available)

​

Option 2: Buy another (cheap) switch

Get an unmanaged switch and use it ONLY for your WAN connection.

I like and use this one in my house for various purposes...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N99BBC

u/red286 · 2 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

That one should be fine. Personally, I'd spend the extra $10 to get the gigabit version, but that's just me, it's not really essential, especially since it will only increase bandwidth between devices connected to the switch.

u/iosephulus · 2 pointsr/UCONN

A switch is the way to go. Wireless IMO isn't nearly as reliable as a wired connection. It's also theoretically a bit more secure too. A 5-port switch is useful at home, the dorm, or just about anywhere else. Here's a great example

also;
>ethernet chords
>ethernet cords

u/_Kai · 2 pointsr/pcgaming

Correct. Something in the $10-20 range will be good, like this. There's even an online manual for it here.

u/creeront · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Is there a reason why you can't just get a switch?

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-SG1005D-1000Mbps-Gigabit-Capacity/dp/B000N99BBC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420966765&sr=8-2&keywords=network+switch

Also, is your desktop connected directly to a modem, or is there a router?

u/clymin · 2 pointsr/wireless
u/SarcasticOptimist · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

What is your current router? Unless it accompanies an upgrade to AC, getting a $20 switch makes more sense.

u/APerfidiousDane · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Use MoCA if you have coaxial to support it. I decided to spend the money on 3 adapters (2 action-tec and 1 motorola) and pair them with 2 4-port switches and couldn't be happier. Now I'm able to get a full 100+Mbps on my gaming PC, TV, XBO, PS4, second PC and, if necessary, my SteamLink.

May want to use a coax tester prior to dropping the money though to make sure you have decent connections everywhere.

u/DickInTheDryer · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking
u/Chonky_Fire · 2 pointsr/theNvidiaShield

USB to Ethernet works flawlessly for me. Definitely worth the money. I got this Y cable and this Ethernet adapter for under $18 altogether. That way I can charge my tablet while the adapter is plugged in for longer sessions. Great performance all around.

Charging is not possible with the Ethernet to micro USB adapters, so I highly recommend this setup if you go this route. Nvidia recommends using a Y cable on their website as well.

u/urda · 2 pointsr/wiiu

You can buy other adapters...

I use this one: Plugable USB 2.0 to 10/100 Fast Ethernet LAN Wired Network Adapter for Macbook, Chromebook, Windows 8.1 and Earlier, Surface Pro, Wii, Wii U, Linux, and Specific Android Tablets (ASIX AX88772 chipset) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00484IEJS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_fPCqub01TFGA4

Works great!

u/CollateralFortune · 2 pointsr/homelab

This is what I cam here to recommend.

These work on almost everything I've ever thrown them at.

u/zBGam · 2 pointsr/Roku

I have the same issues a have literally tried everything including hardwiring it. There is something seriously wrong with this firmware version. TV reset, Network reset, bought

Plugable USB 2.0 to Ethernet Fast 10/100 LAN Wired Network Adapter for MacBook, Chromebook, Windows, Linux, Wii, Wii U & Switch Game Console https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00484IEJS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.ZhNBbWK84Q26

The TV does the same thing. Nothing works and TCL said we can't repair your TV it's out of warranty. Umm it is not the TV it's the firmware.

This TV have been flawless till this firmware version.
Firmware v8.1.0 Build 4140

u/mw2dude2010 · 2 pointsr/galaxys5

I have a USB otg cable and an Ethernet to USB adapter and it doesn't work on the galaxy s5

u/TheSublimeLight · 2 pointsr/wiiu

The base Wii firmware is horrible for connecting wireless. A few things:

Try moving your wii u into the room with the wireless access point, as the closer you are in proximity to the access point, the less interference there will be. If this doesn't help at all, the best thing to do would be to get a wired usb to cat 5 adapter. you can plug this into the wii u's USB ports and connect a wired ethernet cable. This is the one that I purchased.

u/Cool-Beaner · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

IPFire lets you have separate networks for wired, wireless, and DMZ networks. I use one of these and one of these, although almost any USB to Ethernet adapter will work. There doesn't seem to be any difference in throughput between the 100Mb and the Gigabit models.

The up time is excellent. The only downtime that I have has is when I update to the latest version of IPFire.

I have used OpenWRT before, and would have used it if it had been available when I set up my firewall. I find IPFire to be a more professional piece of software, with a lot more options on how to set up, filter, and monitor the network. OpenWRT is a more bare bones. Because of that, I am wondering if OpenWRT might be a little faster. One day I need to test that.

u/ungenesis · 2 pointsr/smashbros

I'm not high level enough to comment about specific frame data or anything, but a wired connection is pretty much guaranteed to perform better than a wireless one. If you're worried about financial risk, I've linked a very inexpensive adapter below. It's not first party, but reviews indicate it is compatible with Wii U.

http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Ethernet-Network-Chromebook-Specific/dp/B00484IEJS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1421890624&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+ethernet+adapter&pebp=1421890634103&peasin=B00484IEJS

Hope this helps!

u/altimax98 · 2 pointsr/nexus6

I use this one with an OTG adapter mainly for my Nexus Player and my Chromebook without issue.

u/thoomfish · 2 pointsr/theNvidiaShield

No, but it's kind of already there.

u/zhemao · 2 pointsr/IWantToLearn

I used this USB-to-Ethernet adapter with my Macbook Air when I first set up my wifi router. It seemed to work quite well.

u/mrbill · 2 pointsr/Nexus5

Most of those cheap dongles use the same ASIX chipset; there's no need to pay $17 for the BobJGear model. I like the Plugable one myself ($12):

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00484IEJS/

I've found even the $5-6 models off eBay work fine with both my Surface RT, Surface Pro, Macbook Pro/Air, and any of my Chromebooks, as long as they have that ASIX AX88772 chipset.

u/firefoxvulpix · 2 pointsr/wiiu

I was having trouble with the Wii u not connecting to college internet. I went out and bought a ethernet to usb from Bestbuy and started getting the "plug in the Wii LAN adapter message. I found out it only takes certain adapters for some reason. I got this one off of Amazon and it works out perfectly.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00484IEJS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hope it all works out for you!

u/averypoliteredditor · 2 pointsr/computertechs

That's what I'm using. The important thing with WinPE is that the driver is 'net' class and not 'usb' class driver. By default, WinPE will ignore loading drivers if their not the right class. You can open the .inf for your drivers and check this. Here's the adapter I'm using.

u/migit128 · 2 pointsr/wiiu

Why get a usb 3.0 adapter for a wii u? It only has 2.0 plugs. It's a waste of money.

I got this one for my Wii U.

Works as good as anything else. You still get dropped from games though since they're generally hosted on other peoples wii u (who have wireless).

u/TheRoyalBunghole · 2 pointsr/homelab

Like wolffstar said tho the wireless cards aren't super reliable you could go for a TP-Link Wireless N300 2T2R Access Point, 2.4Ghz 300Mbps, 802.11b/g/n https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UBU8IE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_joADybXQHG37
It's 25$ it only goes up to 100m but it's cheap and reliable I'm not positive if it supports vlan tagging I got my first AP with vlan support because I was interested in dividing up my network into clean sections but if you go the pfsense route I think you should get this pfsense has a lot of things to play with and configure so a AP that isn't super feature full might be ok because it does the minimum it needs to do connect wireless systems

u/strolls · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

> ur crappy WRT54G's is a joke.

Please don't discount this advice, OP, on the basis of how /u/tdotr6 has expressed himself - WRT54Gs really are not up to routing at this kind of speed.

You can get 300Mbps wifi for as little as $25 - I can't recommend this or this
from personal experience, but read some reviews and I wouldn't be surprised if you find one (or both) of them adequate. 802.11n should give you better range, too.

u/ztherion · 2 pointsr/networking
u/protogenxl · 2 pointsr/homesecurity

The Wyze cams need to be activated on WiFi and need to check in regularly with the cloud system.

If you have a basement or attic, from your router you can run an Ethernet cable across to the wall closest to the garage and add a cheap tp-link access point to service the camera


TP-Link AP that includes a poe injector
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-300Mbps-Repeater-TL-WA801ND/dp/B004UBU8IE/ref=sr_1_5

u/billcube · 2 pointsr/PS4

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-300Mbps-Repeater-TL-WA801ND/dp/B004UBU8IE

You can use it as an access point, it will connect to your WiFi network and you plug it via ethernet to your PS4.

u/pinumbernumber · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Okay, you have a few options here. The simplest would be a wireless repeater- something similar to this- placed mid-way between your rooms and refreshing the signal to provide strong wi-fi to your room. However, going through two layers of wireless will impact speed. There's a better way.

A quick note- do not just connect another router to the cable running to your roommate's router. This will usually work, but without special configuration, it will put you in a state called "double NAT", which is a headache. Especially if you game.

In your place, I would buy a separate switch and Access Point.

  • The long cable from your roomate plugs into the switch.
  • You will need a short cable to go from the switch to your PC.
  • A second short cable is needed to connect the AP to the switch.
  • Both the switch and AP need to be plugged in to power.

    Now, your PC's access is going:
    PC->Switch->Roommate
    and your phone is going:
    Phone->AP->Switch->Roommate.

    You can configure a network name, password, etc for your Access Point, entirely separate from whatever wifi your roommate has.

    You can likely find a single product that can do both of these functions (a correctly reconfigured router can do the job), meaning fewer devices/wires and probably less cost. But if I had to buy a setup that I knew would work with a minimum of fuss and configuration, those are what I would buy.
u/mynameisdave · 2 pointsr/wireless

Better to get a cheap switch to split the wired connection and then hang a cheap access point off of it. Or just run the router upstairs/mount it to the ceiling. Something.

u/fdjsakl · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I have no experience with that but looking at the manual, it supports WDS which does link 2 routers together, so I think it may work, but WDS will cut your bandwidth in half.

Since you are so close physically, this might work.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WA801ND-Wireless-300Mbps-Repeater/dp/B004UBU8IE/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1450193083&sr=8-5&keywords=2.4+bridge

He could connect this bridge to your wifi, then his router to the bridge to broadcast his own wifi network.

But also with a bridge like this connected to a consumer router, you won't be able to really separate your networks without VLANS.

u/redlukas · 2 pointsr/wifi

I would not reccomend a wifi range extender. It is only as good as the signal at the place you plug it in. Since you have already run some ethefnet cable, you can just plug in a wireless access point. NOT a router. If you use a router you wont be able to communicate with your other devices (network printer, nas, chromecast... ) as intended. You can get an access point for around 25 bucks offamazon remember to set different ssids for your main router and the access point since many devices dont switch to the nearest ap automatically and if you have set the same ssid there is (almost) no way to make sure you are on the right access point. Oh and also different wieless channels.

u/damnidol · 2 pointsr/RetroPie

Something like this might work nicely:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-300Mbps-Repeater-TL-WA801ND/dp/B004UBU8IE


It can operate in bridge mode. Have it connect to your campus WiFi and then plug the Pi into the ethernet port. You'll never need to enter a network password on the Pi.

u/mikeaton · 2 pointsr/originalxbox
u/abz_eng · 2 pointsr/htpc

Netflix/Amazon at present only do 4K primarily on TVs/Fire boxes

If you did want to use a PC you need a Kaby Lake CPU and Microsoft Edge

Here's the bandwidth requirements

>25 Megabits per second - Recommended for Ultra HD quality

Now I know that G should give enough at 54 Mbps but this theoretical maximum and what you get is highly subjective to your house (Angel through walls, wall type, neighbours etc all have an effect). That's why I say go wired if possible, you could try it first, but be aware of the issues.

I have used a PoE access point in the same room if getting the wires to one side is hard. That way the Wifi signal only went 4m in clear air. If it works it isn't stupid

u/Bobsagetluvr · 2 pointsr/techsupport

If you're going to end up buying new hardware, I'd suggest going with Powerline ethernet, unless you really want to buy a new router/wireless bridge. It will be be less clutter, cheaper, and more reliable (than cheap wireless bridge alternatives).

Out of the box Wireless Bridge capable routers, you could get something like this TP-LINK.

I'd suggest any Asus router, and flash tomato on it. Something cheap like this N-12 would do. I like the asus routers because they are unbrickable; perfect for messing about with the firmware.

u/ensum · 2 pointsr/techsupport

>there's a cable in the wifi box thing in the wall

I don't know what this means. Does this mean there's an ethernet jack available to you to use? Is the wireless router physically in your apartment? Can you try plugging a PC into this router and see if the PC gets internet through the router?

Regardless there's a different way to get it working and that's by using a wireless bridge.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-300Mbps-Repeater-TL-WA801ND/dp/B004UBU8IE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502852928&sr=8-1&keywords=tp+link+wireless+bridge

This will connect to the WiFi and rebroadcast it out across your apartment. So if it works well if your roommates room, then you'd just put the bridge in there and connect it to the WiFi and it would rebroadcast it out hopefully giving you a better signal assuming your roommates room is close to your room.

u/TL_DRead_it · 2 pointsr/de

Ich hatte vor etwa einem Jahr exakt das gleiche ein ähnliches Problem.

Powerline habe ich probiert, war aber dank uraltem und merkwürdig verlegten Leitungen keine Option, einfach einen WLAN-Adapter an den Desktop auch nicht, da mehrere Rechner versorgt werden wollen. Habe es dann letztendlich gelöst, indem ich einen billigen (zweiten) Router gekauft, bridge mode eingestellt und das Teil zwischen Provider-Fritzbox und Switch gepackt. Funktioniert super, Nachteil sind noch eine Box, die Platz im Serverschränkchen wegnimmt und etwa ~3 ms ping extra, das ist noch vertretbar. Empfang ist gut, trotz zwei Rigips-Wänder und einem Ziegel-Schornstein.

Edit: Hmm, irgendwie hatte ich überlesen, dass ein simpler WLAN-Adapter/Karte bei dir eine der Optionen ist. Wäre das einfachste.

u/TaedusPrime · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If your modem has 4 available Ethernet ports then it's probably a modem/router combo. A normal modem only has one port.

If you don't wanna move anything you can buy a cheap 4-5 port network switch and plug it into one of your router ports to expand it and use one of the ports on that switch for the adapter.

I prefer just using the PowerLine kits to get a good wired source to where you need it then plugging a access point into that. Wireless extenders are only as good as your existing wireless signal which in your case seem poor in that area.

Here's an idea of parts to get a reliable wireless signal to another side of house.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004UBU8IE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481239630&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=access+point&dpPl=1&dpID=41poupiCvrL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FNFSPY/ref=pd_aw_fbt_147_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=C3PA3MS98K61AQAC2BMP

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AWRUICG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481239732&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=powerline+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=31IYBNuPwFL&ref=plSrch

5 port switch to your router, from the switch to the PowerLine adapter. From the other powerline adapter in your target room/area to the access point. Then setup the access point and name it "Other side of house wifi" lol


This should give you a great full bar wifi source without uprooting your existing setup.


u/163941 · 2 pointsr/pcgaming

Wireless Xbox 360 controllers are only wireless devices.

Connecting a USB cable will charge them, but data is still sent wirelessly.

So you either need to buy the wireless receiver, or a wired controller.

If you're going to buy another controller, I'd personally recommend the DualShock 4 instead. With custom drivers it's a much better controller than the 360 pad.

If you connect a USB cable, it uses that for data, or you can use use Bluetooth to connect wirelessly to the PC rather than using a proprietary connection. This is particularly convenient if you have a notebook or tablet like the Surface Pro which has Bluetooth built in.

I believe the Xbox One controller is similar to the DualShock 4 in that regard, where it will send data over the cable if it's connected with one. However it is still using proprietary wireless tech, and there is no wireless receiver for the PC yet.

u/CVGridley · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I use one of these because it works with input mapper and pairs my dual shock 4.

Kinivo BTD-400 Bluetooth 4.0 USB Adapter for Windows 10 / 8.1 / 8 / 7 / Vista
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Q45EF4

u/YaBoyClaeb · 2 pointsr/CloneHero
u/peachey777 · 2 pointsr/pcgaming

I bought the Xbox One controller and it broke in under a week. I've always had issues with Xbox controllers, usually with the analog sticks, they just don't last. The Xbox One controller's left analog stick starting clicking in on it's own just by moving it around. The 360 analog sticks always become too loose over time, and honestly not even that long. Anyways, I took it back and replaced it with a DS4, it's really awesome. I personally don't have issues with games not working, works with everything 360 controllers work with for me. The touch pad works as a basic mouse which is really awesome since some games have launchers which require a mouse.

I use this to make it work: http://dsdcs.com/index.php/portfolio/software-development/4-ds4windows

It can also work wirelessly as well. For that I use this: http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTD-400-Bluetooth-4-0-adapter/dp/B007Q45EF4/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top/189-0025011-1806710

u/skunk242 · 2 pointsr/wiiu

I was coming here to ask the same question. I'm hoping something as simple and cheap as this but would it be necessary to get the 4.0 version instead?

u/vergingalactic · 2 pointsr/pcgaming

Surprisingly not. USB micro B is kinda shit and even if it is stable it is extremely prone to being hit just by using the controller.

In addition, latency is far lower over bluetooth, like 1-1.5 ms vs 10-15 ms.

Just make sure that the bluetooth antenna is not directly plugged into a USB port on the case. A USB extender cable made the connection go from requiring line of sight to being usable in another room 20 feet away.

The tiny dongles like this one I use are great: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Q45EF4/ref=psdc_3015437011_t5_B009ZIILLI

u/-WB-Spitfire · 2 pointsr/techsupport

http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTD-400-Bluetooth-4-0-USB/dp/B007Q45EF4/

Keep in mind that bluetooth adapters seem to be very hit-or-miss. I've looked through about 20-30, and all are that way, it seems.

u/kmisterk · 2 pointsr/hardwareswap

try this for a decent bluetooth 4.0 dongle.

and OMG Learn to Format Links, people.

u/DrMcMeow · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTD-400-Bluetooth-4-0-USB/dp/B007Q45EF4

is what I use. haven't had a problem with it.

u/sidrkrulz · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $178.99 @ NCIX US
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-H97M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $88.88 @ OutletPC
Memory | Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $58.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $44.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB ACX 2.0 Video Card | $329.99 @ Amazon
Case | Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case | $49.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $44.99 @ NCIX US
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) | $99.98 @ OutletPC
Keyboard | Cooler Master CM Storm Devastator Gaming Bundle Wired Gaming Keyboard w/Optical Mouse | $26.99 @ NCIX US
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $923.79
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-03-13 12:31 EDT-0400 |

Hey since I'm sure you're used to using a PS4 controller why not do that instead of buying a new controller?

Download DS4 tool from here http://forums.pcsx2.net/Thread-InputMapper-fully-utilize-your-DS4-in-Windows

It's pretty easy to set up.

If you want to play wirelessly buy this http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTD-400-Bluetooth-4-0-adapter/dp/B007Q45EF4.

Its a Bluetooth dongle.

HDMI on PC works the exact same as on your PS4.

u/ashtrayheart3 · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Hi all,

Couldn't find anything online to help me here. I have two switch pro controllers and I'd like to connect them both to my desktop pc at the same time.

I have a few of these adapters:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Q45EF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DDSdBbR4HK556


One adapter detects one controller and it works fine in steam. But my computer will not allow my to use more than one of those adapters at the same time, and each adapter will only detect one of the same device at one time.

I'm really not wanting to go for any wired options.

Any Bluetooth troubleshooting advice or links to other Bluetooth adapters that support two of the same device would be awesome. Thanks!

u/captaintoasty · 2 pointsr/GuitarHero

I've gotten mine to work very well, save for the whammy bar. I'd recommend getting a USB Bluetooth receiver (I have a built in MOBO Bluetooth receiver but it didn't work). This is the one that I got.

  1. Once you've got your Bluetooth receiver, download and install the appropriate drivers for it. In my case I think I just used Lenovo's Bluetooth drivers but yours may be different depending what receiver you get.

  2. Get XPadder (it's only $10) and place it somewhere you can easily access it; I have it in Documents.

  3. Press the PS4 + Share buttons at the same time to reset the controller. The white light should be blinking rapidly.

  4. Open your Bluetooth settings. I'm running Windows 10 so it might look a little different, but you should be able to turn on Bluetooth if it's not already on.

  5. Press and hold the Sync button for ~10 seconds on the controller right next to the D-Pad. Your controller should pop up at this point and you can click Pair. The white light will stay on at this point. If it doesn't pop up, try restarting your computer or reinstalling the drivers. Make sure the drivers are the correct ones for your Bluetooth receiver (unless they're all just generic drivers, I'm unsure).

  6. Open up XPadder and, assuming your controller is connected properly, it should look like this minus the keys and arrow buttons. If it looks like this then your controller isn't being recognized.

  7. From here just click where my image says PDP Rock Band Guitar, yours might be different, and just start pressing all the buttons on the controller to have them recognized. Whammy won't work as far as I know.

  8. Close out of that window and just click the buttons to assign a specific key press. This will correlate with whatever your keyboard settings for GH3 are. You can follow my layout or choose your own.

  9. When launching GH3, just make sure that XPadder is actually on and that your controller is being recognized properly. During the loading screens for GH3 use your keyboard to get to the main menu, then you can use your controller after that. If you use your controller from the start, GH3 will default to thinking that's the main controller when technically with XPadder you're just supplementing your keyboard with the controller.

    Hope that helps! :)
u/docHoliday17 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

This is going to sound incredibly rude, but it's really just curiosity: why are you running a socket 2011 mobo?

that aside, i don't believe the make combo cards for desktops(at least i couldnt find one). I usually use just a bluetooth usb dongle. the one im looking at ordering is this one from amazon.

as for wifi, i've been rocking this bad boy and i get solid speeds from two floors about my router.

You could also look into a 802.11ac compatible card if you want to future proof yourself, but unless you plan on upgrading your wireless infrastructure any time soon it isn't really worth the extra cost right now.

u/Xolandi · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Best Bluetooth Adapter for PS4 Controller? I already have a USB Dongle. I'm looking to upgrade it so i stop getting over 10ms Lantancy. Was thinking maybe getting a PCIe adapter? Just curious on master Race's option.

u/Endofa · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I'm having trouble with this bluetooth dongle and this wireless keyboard. I basically have repeating numbers, intermittent disconnects and extreme lag, varying in seriousness based on which ports I plug my bluetooth dongle into

Here's my build below, and I'm using this wireless mouse and this monitor. Any thoughts on trouble shooting? Should I return the dongle and keyboard and get something better quality?

EDIT: I should mention that I reinstalled the dongle drivers already, but I am not sure if the keyboard even has drivers.



PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | $239.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | Asus SABERTOOTH Z97 MARK2 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $165.99 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $79.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $109.99 @ Micro Center
Storage | Seagate 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $119.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card | $349.99 @ B&H
Case | Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case | $99.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $69.99 @ NCIX US
Optical Drive | Lite-On iHAS124-14 DVD/CD Writer | $19.99 @ Newegg
Wireless Network Adapter | TP-Link TL-WDN4800 802.11a/b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter | $39.99 @ Amazon
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $1280.90
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-10-16 09:01 EDT-0400 |

u/tb21666 · 2 pointsr/AndroidTV

Network it via Total Commander & its LAN plugin or directly via Bluetooth, if your PC has it? If not a 4.0 Dongle is super cheap.

u/BravoGangUS · 2 pointsr/Rockband

I use this one on Windows 10 and haven't had any issues with it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q45EF4

u/Roxas-The-Nobody · 2 pointsr/playstation

Yeah, $40 is cool, but why does Sony always make their USB's in this length?

I have a Kinivo BUS that's perfect.

And then my PS Pulse has Sony's USB and it's an eyesore.

*besides, most prebuilt computers and laptops have Bluetooth. You wouldn't even need the USB.

u/yaroto98 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I got this one and it's great

u/captmonkey · 2 pointsr/Chattanooga

I have the gig. I have tons of Steam games and they all download ridiculously fast. It takes a couple of minutes for the big ones and it's to the point where the install process is almost always longer than the download. I really only keep the ones I'm currently playing installed, because if I want to play something else, I just download it again.

If there's ever a problem with streaming video (very rare), I know it's probably the site rather than my connection. Google Music uploads my stuff in the background faster than I can check if it uploaded.

One annoyance I encounter (though not as common now as it was a year ago when I first got the gig) is that many servers just can't handle it. So, even though I have the capability to download hundreds of times faster, some servers still just give me some paltry 5Mb/s download because that's all most people have anyway.

Oh, and if you're downloading some totally legal files from the torrents, they go fast even when you're downloading several and playing an online game at the same time. And like that other guy said, make sure your router than handle a gig. And don't expect the same speed from wireless as ethernet because that technology at the consumer level just doesn't exist yet. Some routers will advertise that kind of speed, but in practice it's just not going to happen, especially if you live in an area with lots of other wireless routers to cause interference (like a neighborhood or apartment).

u/smashadages · 2 pointsr/PS4

1. For fear of advertising my own thread... you may find these tips useful on improving your PS4 speeds. I basically had the same problem as you. I was getting 42 mbps download wired on my macbook and about 5 mbps wireless. The PS4 was getting maybe 20 mbps wired and 4 wireless. (Both wireless devices were about 10 yards from my router.) I vastly improved my speeds with the tips from my post. Hope that helps!


2. Since then, I've done two things because I had a little money to spend ($150 to be exact). I bought a new router to improve my speeds to my wireless devices and I bought a wireless bridge to my PS4. I'm now getting about 30 mbps on my PS4 when I was only getting 4 to begin with.


So #1 helps if you have no money to spend and #2 helps if you have some. If anything, I recommend just buying the $30 wireless bridge because it gives you a wired connection.

Good luck!

u/redditcats · 2 pointsr/technology

You should ditch that monthly cable modem rental and buy a better modem. This one works with Spectrum (I have spectrum) Buy this modem

Once you get it, call spectrum and tell them you no longer want to rent their crap and that you have a new modem. Then you tell them the MAC address on the bottom of the new modem. Send the old modem back to Spectrum (fuck them)

Then for WiFi get this.
Then, connect a network cable from the network port on the back of the modem to the WAN port on the back of the ASUS router. Then setup your wireless network by logging into the router (read setup, connect a network cable to one of the 4 network ports on the back of the router and connect it to your PC. (You can remove this once you set up the wifi network if your PC is wireless)

Trust me, you will be much happier with the speeds you get and the increased WiFi range (plus the addition of multiple wifi networks you can broadcast on different frequencies.) If you are in a congested area you can use the 5ghz band and it should be a lot less crowded. Plus way more bandwidth (Wifi range of 5ghz doesnt go as far as 2.4ghz but you can run both networks anyways)

If you end up doing this (highly recommended) you can PM me with any questions.

If you ever move, you obviously now have a bad ass router and modem. Never rent a modem from these fucks.

u/Pulgoso_ · 2 pointsr/AndroidTV

Thanks for the suggestion, I think I will just buy a new router since it will benefit my whole network and be more stable.

I was thinking of purchasing the Asus RT-AC66U as the price is not far off decent powerlines.

Is that an okay router or can you recommend another?

Thanks!

u/Big_0il · 2 pointsr/cordcutters

I'm using an Asus RT-A66u. This is an awesome router. While I ran Cat6 throughout my house about a year ago so use that for streaming, this router allows for a strong wi-fi signal for tablets and phones in all of the rooms of my house, both upstairs and downstairs.

u/candidly1 · 2 pointsr/wireless

I have had a 1900 for quite awhile now and it's a bear; real fast and no issues to speak of (I am also on Comcast; I get around 180Mbps). Pick a price point and there's one for you:

https://www.amazon.com/RT-AC5300-Wireless-Tri-Band-AiProtection-Complete/dp/B008ABOJKS

u/randomdude21 · 2 pointsr/msp

Asus Open WRT allows for 3g/4g failover, as well as dual-wan support.

https://www.amazon.com/RT-AC66U-Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1750-Gigabit-Router/dp/B008ABOJKS

u/DaNPrS · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Well it comes down to what you want.

Do you want to spend money on a router for today? The N66U is a good option.

If you want to buy something that will cover your future wireless devices, spend a little more. For a few extra bucks you can get an AC model like the AC66U.

If you really don't want to go over budget, Netgear has a couple of AC models that will cut it. We're just not big fans of their hardware.

u/Andromansis · 2 pointsr/Comcast

Right off the top of my head the PS3 uses an 802.11G wifi adapter which would lock the WiFi network to an 802.11G mode which would produce speeds in the range of 20 mbps over wifi.

The laptop MAY have the same problem.

So what you would want to do is power down your devices, press and hold the reset button on the back of your modem for 25 seconds to preform a factory reset.

Then power them on and test the speed on your devices in this sequence : ipad 3, ps4, laptop, ps3. Stop testing when speeds fall to 20 MBPS because you have found your culprit. At that point you can look into replacing or retrofitting the device (in the case of the tablets, replacing with newer model, in the case of the other hardware, retrofitting)

Don't ask why it does that, I didn't design it.

Also, depending on how you're testing the speed you could be getting a false positive on the low speeds, as the PS3 and PS4 will test your speeds on the PLAYSTATION network but not actual network speed.

OOKLA has a speedtest app you can download for the ipad and for the PC you would want to use Speedtest.comcast.net.

You mentioned 2 stories, so you may want a wifi extender to extend the signal coverage on the 2nd story (1st story?) and would definitely want a wifi extender if the floorspace of your home is greater than 2000 square foot.

If you really want a dedicated router then you would want one where you could turn DCHP off, and the only ones I am familiar with that have that capability are the ASUS brand, Netgear or Linksys might have that capability but I'm not as familiar with them so they might not. Also apple airports.

For actual specs you would want an 802.11AC unit. http://www.amazon.com/RT-AC66U-Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1750-Gigabit-Router/dp/B008ABOJKS/

or http://www.amazon.com/Apple-AirPort-Extreme-Station-ME918LL/dp/B00DB9WCR6/

Why would you want something where you could turn DHCP off you ask? Just in case there is a problem with turning DHCP off on your TG862G.

Why would you want 802.11AC? Range. http://www.pcworld.com/article/2061907/all-about-beamforming-the-faster-wi-fi-you-didnt-know-you-needed.html

Now, personally I prefer routers with visible, external antennas, and I'd like 4x4 MIMO which is just a fancy way of saying it has 4 antennas and uses them.

Any followup questions?

u/Phr057 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

I'm a fan of the ASUS AC1750 and the ASUS AC1900 for general home use. If you want more bells and whistles like mesh capability, MU-MIMO, etc. You'll be paying a bit more money, but you can take a look at Orbi, Netgear and Google for mesh capabilities if you want to go that route.

Additionally, if you want to save some money in the long run, you can buy your own modem. ISPs generally (I'm not sure about Cable America) charge you between $8-$10 a month to use lease their modem. I'm assuming it is a cable modem with a coaxial cable coming in through the back? If it is, you can pick up one of these and install it. It pays itself off generally in 8 months.

These are much higher quality than what the ISP provides and all you have to do is shoot your provider a call and let them know you are setting up a new modem and would like to return theirs. All they need is the MAC address on the box!

u/NyanGoat · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I'm not too much into consumer-grade equipment anymore, but I do think the ASUS RT-AC66U would be a very good choice.

It does go in the upper range of your budget though, but it's more futureproof than it's brother the ASUS RT-N66U, since it supports the AC standard, and not just N standard.


The placement of the router can have a lot to say for your wireless coverage. Having it on the floor under a desk might cause wireless reflections from the wall/desk, which could affect the performance and reach of the wireless network.

Ideally, you would place the router up high and central to the house, but in a lot of the cases this is not possible.

u/djrbx · 2 pointsr/LosAngeles

> Asus AC56U

If you can, get the upgraded RT-AC66U

u/Jeep600Grand · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Well, for £100 you're going to get something either not that powerful, or several years old in its production. ASUS has served me well personally, so I tend to like them. This ASUS Router is quite a few years old, but may do the trick for you.

As with any consumer product, you may get one that works perfectly, or you may get one that has a shit ton of issues and drives you crazy. If you do pick the one I linked above, then I assume no liability lol. But in all seriousness, I have gone through many routers in my day, and the ASUS ones just seemed to work better.

u/jimbo831 · 2 pointsr/ClashOfClans

I've been there before. This router changed my life:

Asus RT-N66U

Don't ask any questions. Just buy it. Unless you really want AC wireless, then get this one:

Asus RT-AC66U

You'll thank me later.

u/Paintballer19 · 2 pointsr/xboxone

Mind saying what exact problems your having with the nighthawk? Maybe we can help you out?

If not the asus Ac routers are very good. http://www.amazon.com/RT-AC68U-Wireless-AC1900-Dual-Band-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00FB45SI4

http://www.amazon.com/RT-AC66U-Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1750-Gigabit-Router/dp/B008ABOJKS

u/jonboy345 · 2 pointsr/computertechs

Over in /r/HomeNetworking the TP Link Archer C7 gets recommended a lot.

I'd also recommend the ASUS RT-AC66U or the RT-AC68U.

If those don't fit the need, can always check out Small Net Builder's router chooser.

Edit: Above recommendations are for a DIY solution for the client. If it's in the budget and the knowledge is there, I'd absolutely recommend a Ubiquiti Edgerouter Lite + Ubiquiti AC AP's.

u/KenadyDwag44 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Okay then I would stay away from the proprietary Verizon routers and go either with the Archer C7 or the Asus AC-1750.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ABOJKS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1LKnyb9HYGH71

You will want to use the Ethernet jack that is coming out of your Fios ONT for the routers that I am recommending and if they only set up coaxial, it is an easy phone call to frontier to change it to Ethernet.

I can't speak about much on the TP-Link router but everyone in this community seems to recommend it a lot. I have a Asus router at home and it was really easy to set up as a router with frontier. And when you move the ASUS router can be easily turned into an access point that can extend your wireless easily.

u/brict · 2 pointsr/IAmA

If your speed test over wifi is showing 66Mbps down but you feel like the connection is crawling you probably have latency issues. Have you tried pingtest.com?

Does your signal display high strength? It could be that your house is too big?

Do you have a lot of neighbors? You could be transmitting on a crowded channel.

When was the last time you rebooted your router? I know when I used Linksys routers they'd slow to a crawl and I'd just need to reboot them every once in a while.

You could try upgrading to a router with more processing power and antennas http://www.amazon.com/RT-AC66U-Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1750-Gigabit-Router/dp/B008ABOJKS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381863720&sr=8-1&keywords=ac+router

u/jasonr686 · 2 pointsr/wireless

Would this be step up from the Airport Extreme? http://www.amazon.com/RT-AC66U-Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1750-Gigabit-Router/dp/B008ABOJKS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373245013&sr=8-1&keywords=ac+router

Is there anything in the lower end commercial realm that would work?

u/GNUtoReddit · 2 pointsr/wireless
u/dividend · 2 pointsr/KCTech

Any opinions on the ASUS ASUS RT-AC66U Dual-Band Wireless-AC1750 Gigabit Router to replace the Netgear 6300 we bought as a first try?

u/Galaxyhiker42 · 2 pointsr/NewOrleans

I bought this

ASUS RT-AC66U Dual-Band Wireless-AC1750 Gigabit Router https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ABOJKS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_F6zevb04VHP3X

2 years ago and have half the neighborhood asking if they can use my wireless.

I've got every device in the house split between the 4 signals. (Some on the 2ghz and others in the 5ghz) and I've not had a problem with speed.

It's at the back of my almost 200 year old shotgun and I pick it up when I drive up to my house.

Ditch the shitty rental gear and buy your own. I spent less than 300 bucks over 2 years ago and have not had to change anything yet.

Also tell a customer service rep to eat a bag of dicks generally does not get you far in life.

I recently had trouble with cox level3.net and the way things were being directed to a server and with in 15 minutes the problem was mostly cleared up. (There is only so much they can do after the signal has left their network... but they redirected my signal to a better level3 before it left their network.)

Overall I've been happy with cox... frustrated sometimes, but happy. What 3 year relationship does not have its ups and downs.

Especially when AT&T is your other choice and they don't use lube.

u/valumn · 2 pointsr/xboxone
  1. if you are on wireless get a cable and run it to the Xbox to see if you are having the same issue. If not it is a wireless problem. Wireless slows down a lot the more people that are on it and actively using it.

  2. move your Xbox a little. If it is in an enclosed space it might be interferace causing an issue.

  3. Move the power brick away from your console. I had the exact same issue and it was caused by the power brick. Now I have my full 30 /5 connection rather than a 1mbps / 5 mpbs connection. I also had packet loss. The packet loss is most likely not on your ISP side but caused by your wireless / bad cable.

  4. all else fall get a new router. I got an ASUS which is awesome and even has an optimize for Xbox mode. I got the big beefy one but you can drop down a little lower and still have an awesome one without the 5G option.

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008ABOJKS/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
u/Flappers67 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I personally would buy another router. You can easily do what /u/michrech said but it seems like you don't like the prices (which I understand).

So yes searching "wireless routers" is a good term because 9 times out of 10 wireless routers have at least 4 ports on them. If I was in your position I would buy this router, or even this one. I linked these two because I have personally used them and i haven't had any issues with them.

Configuration wise, these routers should have a "Wireless AP" mode. Which will turn off the routers DHCP and just work off your main one, if you said you're running Cat5 cable (hopefully Cat5e).

The other configuration option you can do is to login into whichever router you get and turn off the DHCP server and then only plug ethernet cables into the 1-4 ports and NOT the WAN port. This will simply extend your existing router DHCP range to this new one. So you have options.

Hope this helps!

EDIT: Both configuration options I listed do the exact same thing...just different ways of doing them.

EDIT 2: I just now saw the second option /u/michrech listed and that does seem like a very viable option. Especially if you don't have a basic understanding of how to access a router's login page. It's probably a more plug and play option.

u/synapseattack · 2 pointsr/kodi

Have you considered MOCA adapters? I only ask because when I mention them most people don't know what I'm talking about. I swear by them and I have been running them for the past 4 years.

I have the Actiontec. I just upgraded to the first link. However now that I've seen the price of the Yitong (third link) and see if there is a drastic difference. I still need one more....

Actiontec MOCA 2.0 (650+Mbps)

Actiontec MOCA 1.1 (270 Mbps)

[Yitong](
https://www.amazon.com/gp/slredirect/picassoRedirect.html/ref=pa_sp_atf_aps_sr_pg1_2?ie=UTF8&adId=A07613361TZG8Q2JZL9GI&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FYitong-Technology-Ethernet-Adapter-YTMC-51N1-M2%2Fdp%2FB019MDRX5A%2Fref%3Dsr_1_2%3Fie%3DUTF8%26qid%3D1465364169%26sr%3D8-2-spons%26keywords%3DMOCA%2B2.0%26psc%3D1&qualifier=780315&id=7766687652242706253&widgetName=sp_atf)

u/i_dont_know · 2 pointsr/techsupport

I don't know why more people haven't heard of these, but I've had great success with moca adapters (power over coax). They offer faster speeds, better reliability, and easier setup than Ethernet over powerline adapters.

u/KantLockeMeIn · 2 pointsr/networking

If you have unused coax jacks in each room, MoCA is far superior to powerline.

http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Ethernet-Adapter-without-Routers/dp/B008EQ4BQG

u/JustinRN · 2 pointsr/xboxone

You might also want to look into MoCA adapters. I use a MoCA adapter and get speeds that are practically the exact same as if I was hardwired into my modem with Ethernet. I think MoCA adapters are more stable and get better speeds (through my personal testing). I have been using this set without a single issue for about a year.

u/CbcITGuy · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

When you're talking about MoCa devices would something like this work for injecting Ethernet into the coax cable and then getting it on the other end?

http://smile.amazon.com/Actiontec-Ethernet-Adapter-without-Routers/dp/B008EQ4BQG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416427950&sr=8-1&keywords=MoCa+Adapter

u/jibjibjib · 2 pointsr/PleX

I've tried previous generations of both, and their performance was consistent and reliable. I think I was only getting 300mbps over the older MOCA adapters, but that was reliable and did not fluctuate. The MOCA adapter are designed to coexist with cable signals, and will not interfere with a cable modem. The other cool thing is that if you get more than 2, they will form a mesh network. I've had 4 all connected to the same coax runs connected by a splitter, and they could all see each other with no problems, and each segment could access the others. I would typically have one of these adapters behind a TV with the cable from the wall to the MOCA adapter, and another cable from the MOCA adapter to the cable box (since it passed the signal through). The MOCA adapter only provides one ethernet port though, so if I had multiple devices (roku, xbox, boxee box, etc.) I put in a small switch to connect all the devices and the MOCA adapter.

This is the MOCA adapter that I used at the time.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008EQ4BQG/

I believe Verizon was also using these at FIOS customer installs, so it was quite easy to find those adapters on ebay for pretty cheap. You should also check out the Amazon reviews for those adapters. There's a lot of good information about how people are using them and their experience.

u/fourg · 2 pointsr/IAmA

Do you have coax wired in your house already? I highly recommend Ethernet over Coax rather than powerline or wifi for stability. If you need better throughout you might as well run Ethernet.

https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Ethernet-Adapter-without-Routers/dp/B008EQ4BQG

u/SysAtMN · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Yes and yes.

There are various MoCA adapters out there pending on how you want to terminate your connections. Adapters that carry both cable tv and Ethernet are going to be more expensive than just an Ethernet adapter.

Some general information on how MoCA works can be found here:

u/JustAnotherGraySuit · 2 pointsr/DIY

If you can push Ethernet over electrical wires, why not over coax too?

It's not cheap, but it certainly works. The MoCA standard exists for precisely this sort of issue. Media converters exist for almost anything under the sun.

u/Dmelvin · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

If you have coax everywhere. MoCA is the way to go

u/kevjs1982 · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Depends what you mean - there are a number of things CoAx can be used from in conjunction with a (set of) Raspberry Pi(s) with the details being country specific

  1. Legally watch Free to Air Broadcast TV - Get a DVB-T/T2 or DVB-S/S2 tuner if you're in Europe or an ATSC tuner if you are in North America. Install TV Headend (comes with OSMC) and connect the tuner to your aerial or satellite dish via the Coax and the tuner to your PI (Only Ireland, the UK, and Germany have full free to air presence via Satellite for there main channels AFAIK - most places you'll need an aerial which can receive digital tv broadcasts) - you can now watch and record (with a suitable external hard disk) broadcast TV on all your RPi's using something like OSMC. You can use one tuner to watch all the channels on one multiplex at the same time - in the UK that might be BBC ONE HD on one Pi, BBC TWO HD on a second one, and ITV-1 HD on a third. In Boston USA that could be WGBH-DT1, WGBH-DT2, WGBH-DT3, and WGBH-DT4 at the same time. You can add more tuners to increase flexibility.

  2. Share the video output of one RPi round the house - If you mean watch the output of one RPi on all the TV's in the house via the TV's built in analogue tuner - then an RF Modulator will allow you to take the composite output of the RPi and modulate it onto an analogue TV frequency. If you were in the UK Something like the TRIAX TRI-LINK Kit coupled with a TVLink at the remote end and an IR receiver at the main PI would allow you to do this. You can also get DVB-T Modulators with built in HDMI inputs for better quality. However the cost of these and the low costs of RPi's means it's just cheaper to get multiple RPi's.

  3. Use the Coax as network cable - In the US MOCA adapters (e.g. https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Ethernet-Adapter-without-Routers/dp/B008EQ4BQG ) allow you to use your existing coax cable as a substitute for running Ethernet cables - however they are expensive, if possible you just want to run some Ethernet cabling.

    However when it comes to Value for Money 2 and 3 are pretty much a waste - WiFi and Ethernet are less expensive alternatives which should work just as well or much better. 1, depending what channels you can receive FTA via your aerial/satellite dish may well be a sound investment. Unless you have a large number of rooms where you always want to watch the same programme as on the main set don't bother with 2. either (the only reason I've done that is I already had the RF Modulator from when we used to share Freesat)

    RE: Point 1, A few things to note if you're in Europe:-
  • Germany, which has historically had extensive FTA broadcasts on satellite, the commercial FTA channels are in standard def only (i.e. HD is only for ARD, ZDF, and the third channels) - while over on DVB-T the only FTA services are those from ARD/ZDF/3rds and use x265 which the PIs struggle with - i.e. in Germany you want to choose satellite and you'll be stuck on SD.
  • Ireland - You won't be able to use a Sky dish for FTA channels from RTÉ - you'll need a dish aimed at KA-SAT which carries Soarsat - if you can get it Soarview is a better choice as it includes UTV Ireland.
  • UK - Local TV channels (e.g. Notts TV) and Sony Movie Channel are only FTA on terrestrial, but otherwise Freesat is now the better choice and can use an ex-Sky box coax cable/dish
u/IMLOwl · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking
u/Balmung · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Use a MoCA adapter. Instead of network over power lines it's network over coax, which is in most all houses for TV hookups.

I started using http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Ethernet-Adapter-without-Routers/dp/B008EQ4BQG earlier this year and it's great, I get consistent 90Mbps throughput.

It can coexist with your cable TV and if you have FIOS you actually only need one adapter as FIOS modem/router uses MoCA so one adapter can be used to connect to the modem in another room.

u/jamvanderloeff · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Usually no. Either run an ethernet cable, use a pair of MoCA adapters to run ethernet over your cable wiring, or Powerline adapters to run it over your power wiring, or use WiFi..

u/Raphman90 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

you could use powerline, or [MocA] (http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Ethernet-Adapter-without-Routers/dp/B008EQ4BQG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427134920&sr=8-1&keywords=moca) attached to an inexpensive router

I have tried both set ups, and by far the moca/second router combo helped much more, but I am in an older house so it could be a problem with my circuits/ the fact that I'm on a sub panel.

u/Dead1 · 2 pointsr/PS4

Good to know and thanks for the reply. I actually just found a nice workaround for this problem, should it be something that I actually face. Apparently, I can buy a device like [this] (http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA4010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1384965413&sr=8-2&keywords=powerline+adapter) or like [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Ethernet-Adapter-Service-ECB2500CK01/dp/B008EQ4BQG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1384968257&sr=8-1&keywords=moca+bridge). I've just read all these complaints about how WiFi isn't good on the PS4 because apparently it only uses the 2.4GHz N network, which I guess is overloaded for a lot of people because it's old and everyone in a neighborhood uses it now.

u/Ospov · 2 pointsr/smashbros

Link to the adapter. It explains why it's better in the video. The TL;DW is the official Nintendo adapter is USB 2.0 and this is USB 3.0 so the transfer speeds are just inherently faster. Plus it's like half the price of the official one.

u/theoquinc · 2 pointsr/splatoon

The greatest thing you can do is find a way to run a Cat5 cable to your Switch and buy a USB Ethernet adapter. I bought this one, it has the exact same chipset as the official (and more expensive) one:

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B00AQM8586

u/imaref · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Could be your ethernet port is broken. If that ends of being the case (and if you have a 3.0 USB port), you can get one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B00AQM8586

u/Donkey-Inferno · 2 pointsr/smashbros

Technically yes but the best ones to get are the USB 3.0 Adapters. If you look on the inside of your Switch Dock you will notice one of the two USB Ports is Blue. The blue indicates USB 3.0. Here’s a link to the exact one I have. I’ve had it for about 6 months and it works wonderfully. There are a few other 3.0’s to choose from that I’m sure all work just as well.

u/ignition386 · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQM8586/

The ASIX AX88179 chipset is the same chipset used in the official Nintendo adapter.

u/Chokaay · 2 pointsr/Switch

I think most of your questions depend on how you plan to use your Switch. For me, 99.9% of the time I use it in handheld mode, so accessories important for my usage are different than someone who primarily uses it in docked mode.

​

u/haneybd87 · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

This one got much faster speeds than the official Nintendo one, and I’ve encountered no issues since the update. https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B00AQM8586

u/wildcarde815 · 2 pointsr/homelab

Just be conscious that it requires a specific chipset, i went with this adapter and it works well: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQM8586/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/captiveball · 2 pointsr/SwitchPirates

i got one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQM8586/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

it really helps when downloading larger games to have a wired connection.

u/AgroFrizzy · 2 pointsr/Steam_Link

I have my computer wired to the steam link. I bought this USB Ethernet adapter for only 15 dollars so that I could have two network ports, one for the steam link and one for internet access.

u/Philmore · 2 pointsr/hackintosh

I know this is more of a workaround than a real solution, and you may want to get it working correctly. However, I had the same problem and eventually just gave up, [bought one of these] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQM8586/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), plugged it in and called it a day.

u/amnon333 · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

This adapter is also pretty good and essentially doubled my speed. I was getting about 40mb down on wifi and now I get about 80mb connected.

u/PleySteshon · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch
u/callbobloblaw · 2 pointsr/Vive

This is correct - to elaborate, I purchased one of these to plug in the ethernet cable from my modem, and it works great (if you don't have a second ethernet port, I would recommend it).

u/seniortroll · 2 pointsr/homelab

I think the M700 is only available in the Tiny form factor. Great machines, I have had one before and still have a couple M83p units.

http://psref.lenovo.com/syspool/Sys/PDF/ThinkCentre/ThinkCentre%20M700%20Tiny/M700%20Tiny.pdf

Per the specs the NIC is an Intel I219-LV which is a pretty common Intel desktop NIC, but is NOT COMPATIBLE.

See the following link for 2016 compatible NICs:
https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/support/articles/000022599/network-and-i-o/ethernet-products.html

I have seen a lot of people use USB adapters for Lenovo Tinys before, I actually got THIS adapter myself for my M83p Tiny. Haven't tried it yet though. I checked and it's supposed to be compatible with ESXi, so idk about Windows compatibility.

u/KLM_SpitFire · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

So I ended up purchasing this one, along with a USB female to micro-USB adapter. It seems that Raspbian supports it OTB, and if I should decide to repurpose my Zero for something else I can always use the ethernet adapter with my MacBook Pro. Thanks again!

u/r-grijalva · 2 pointsr/linuxquestions

I use this one with SHB7150 Philips bluetooth headphones, they work OK. Check the guide on https://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/Bluetooth_headset if you need to do some troubleshooting.

u/moises_327 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Windows 10 supports Bluetooth, but it doesn't necessarily come with it, in most cases you will need an adapter like this to be able to use it.

You can check if there's already an adapter on the Device Manager, looking at the USB ports to see if there's already an external one, or by looking at the motherboard specs to see if it has it.

Do you have a model number for the pre-built?

u/michrech · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Depending on the size of the house, I'd suggest a couple Ubiquiti UAP-AC-Lites or PRO's (depending on if any 3x3 devices will be in use), and depending on your level of network experience, I'd back those up with either an Edgerouter Lite or USG. The USG and the UAP-AC-*'s are both configured through the UniFi Controller software, where the Edgerouter Lite has its own web interface. The have the same hardware 'under the hood', but the USG is easier to manage for more novice folks. I have a USG + UAP-AC-Lite in my house. If you were to go this route, you'll need to include a network switch (if you don't already have one) so you'll have enough ports for any devices that are wired plus any WAPs you install. I wouldn't use routers as WAPs, as many of them (especially older routers) just aren't as good as dedicated WAPs. ;)

u/boundbylife · 2 pointsr/AskTechnology

Invest in your company, invest in your infrastructure.

I'm going to demur from your provided list, and instead offer an alternative solution. Just hear me out before you look for sticker shock (all prices in USD).

Ubiquiti 24-port Gigabit Switch with PoE ($379)

Ubiquiti Unifi Security Gateway ($129)

Ubiquiti Unifi Cloud Key Gen2 ($195)

Ubiquiti Unfi UAP-AC-PRO-E 2-pack ($290)

Total cost: $993

Why am I suggesting you spend almost three times the average cost of one of those small-business routers? A few reasons.

First is performance. Ubiquiti makes 'prosumer' / Enterprise level equipment. The Access Points (APs, last entry) are each rated for 200+ simultaneous connections. When deployed right, you'll probably connect to one consistently; the other will be used by the network to identify which WiFi channels are least congested and migrate you and your clients to those less congested frequencies. In the end, that's your real problem: congestion. With 62 competing access points, it can be hard for your devices to 'hear' your router. So you need a product with some real oomph to get your AP heard. Ubiquiti can do that in spades.

The second is professionalism. What looks better to a client? A plastic black box on a desk somewhere, or an access point hung from the ceiling, like you'd find in a fortune 500 company's headquarters? ubiquit's stuff is slick, sleek, and professional.

So what are you getting for your money?

The switch (first entry) is used to provide power to the Access Points (PoE: Power over Ethernet), and since you have some extra ports there, you can also run a connection to a server, or hardwired connection to laptops, or whatever you might come up with.

The security gateway is the real 'router' in this set up, but it has no wifi capability built in; this is why you need the Access Points. The way it works, you would take your ISP's modem, set it to bridge mode, and then connect the modem to the security gateway, and the security gateway to the switch.

The cloud key is the brains of the network. It will host the controller software and allow you to set up the wifi. While this software can in theory be run on any device, this particular cloud key also contains a hard drive - very useful if you'd like to install security cameras in the office (I'm sure your insurance company would be VERY grateful, if you dont have these already). As a side note, Ubiquiti does make PoE-powered security cameras.

This setup will 100% guarantee that your wifi is the dominant 'voice' in your office. You won't have dropouts, you won't have connection issues, and this setup is very expandable - 1 port for the gateway, 1 port for the cloud key, 2 for the APs, (ideally) 5 for wired connections for you and your coworkers - that still leaves 13 connections on the switch, which means you can still expand this if you hire more employees. If you find you need a backup ISP, there's a grade higher security gateway that can handle redundant ISP connections. If you need to cover more area with WiFi, you can add another access point.

Make the setup look really professional and install everything into a patch panel cabinet like this one

Hire an electrician who specializes in running ethernet cable, and have them mount the APs in your ceiling (super easy if you have a drop ceiling. If not, its more difficult, but not by any means impossible). While they're there, have them run at least one ethernet line to everyone's desk.

edit: and less you think I'm blowing smoke up your ass, I use a frighteningly similar setup in my own home. Yes, it's overkill, no I don't care. It's the most stable WiFi I've had in a house in my life.

u/GoingOffRoading · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

This! Sort of...

For one, you will need a cable modem:

  • $45 NETGEAR CM400-1AZNAS Cable Modem 8x4 Bonded Channels
  • $90 NETEAR CM600-100NAS Cable Model 24x8 Bonded Channels
  • $100 NETEAR CM700 Cable Modem 32x8 Bonded Channels

    Why multiple options and price-points?

    In a nutshell, download and upload bonded channels supports how much up and down bandwidth your cable modem would have. 8 (8 download) x4 (4 upload) theoretically supports 340 Mbps download and whatever upload speed. My current 2x2 supports 125+ Mbps download.

    Why get something beefier? You will get slightly better performance if each bonded channel isn't operating near it's ceiling. With Comcast, they have 16 and 24 download channels in most markets so that will help with your overall connection. Also having 24 or 32 download channels will help you break through speed barriers if Comcast offers faster connection speeds in the future.

    Personal Note: I pay for 100/10 from Comcast and bought the $90 NETEAR CM600-100NAS Cable Model 24x8 Bonded Channels for my new home. While the theoretical download speed from the modem far out paces what I will get from Comcast, the new modem will take full advantage of the 24 bonded download channels in my area.

    Then you will need a router. With Ubiquiti, you can really go with one of two router options:

  • ~$50 Ubiquiti EdgeRouter X
  • ~$100 Ubiquiti Unifi Security Gateway 9USG

    There's a lot of YouTube videos that will explain the differences between each router. The short version is that they use the same hardware and have all of the same features available if enabled over command line but:

  • The EdgeRouter X has more features available in it's existing UI, CAN be powered by POE and is less prone to crashing when making changes over CLI. The Edgerouter also has a built in switch (if you want) and POE passthrough so you can do: Cable Modem -> POE Power Injector -> EdgeRouter -> Ubiquiti Access Point (more on this shortly)
  • The USG has fewer features in the UI than the Edgerotuer, CAN NOT be powered by POE and is more prone to crashing when making changes over CLI. What the USG does have is full integration into the Unifi family of products which means you can manage the router over the cloud along with any other Unifi product like your access points (APs... We'll get to them in a minute).

    Personal Note: I bought the EdgeRouter X because the price point is so good. This thing EASILY out performs my Linksys WRT 1900 AC or any other Linksys, Asus, etc. routers that I have ever owned. With that said, I will never fully leverage all of the controls in the UI and I wish I had gone with the USG as it integrates with the Unifi cloud stuff. I will eventually switch to a Unifi router.

    Then you will need an Access Point (AP) to create an access point for your devices:

  • $75 Ubiquiti Unifi UAP-AC-Lite Lite
  • $100 Ubiquiti Unifi UAP-AC-LR Long Range
  • $130 Ubiquiti Unifi UPA-AC-Pro Pro

    If you get the EdgeRouter X, get a UAP-AC-Lite. They both operate off of 24v so you can do Cable Modem -> 24v POE power injector (comes with the UAP-AC-Lite) -> EdgeRouter X -> UAP-AC-Lite. This is what I have now.

    You can upgrade to the UAP-AC-LR which has the longest range of all of the Ubiquiti APs or the UAP-AC-LR because of it's 3x3 MIMO which gives it a higher input/output than the rest of the Ubiquiti 2x2 MIMO. The latter two devices use 48v POE injectors.

    Personal Note: I'm using two UAP-AC-Lites in my current two story home and will transition to four in my new three story home. Even at the cheapest price point, these far out perform the other routers and access points that I have ever owned.
u/dotpan · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

So something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Security-Gateway-USG/dp/B00LV8YZLK

Is there anything I'd gain/lose out on using this vs ER?

EDIT: /u/TheCarbonatedWater How/Where would I run the Unifi controller? I know the ER has a web-based management suite on it. I don't get the whole UNIFI controller thing. Also, the ERG doesn't seem like it has PoE to run the AP so would I have to get an injector/Switch with it?

EDIT2: Would something like the CloudKey be what I need?

u/JoshS1 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

As far as a home firewall I would check that device out. You place it after you Comcast modem, but then before an aftermarket wireless access point. Your Comcast modem would then only exist as your internet gateway with your whole network behind the firewall. If you do this you should also disable the WiFi on the Comcast.

u/lilotimz · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

For comcast gigabit you'll be needing a DOCSIS 3.1 capable modem such as the Arris SB8200.

For a router, for all in ones you can look at the typical Netgear R7000 or the Asus AC1900 if you want to keep it simple.

If you want something super reliable then...

Edgerouter X

or

Edgerouter Lite

or

Unifi Security Gateway

u/navy2x · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

The best thing to do is separate everything out so you can future proof your setup. What if down the line you want to extend your wifi or need more wired ports? When you separate everything out (security gateway/firewall, switch and wifi access points) its much easier to upgrade and troubleshoot. Your typical consumer grade all in one routers have all three of those things in one package and none of them are particularly great.

Ubiquiti is the current leader at this for the home user. They have SOHO grade equipment (small office home office) which is basically enterprise grade equipment but at consumer grade prices.

If I were you, here's what I'd do:
Ubiquiti Unifi Security Gateway (USG) - this will be the brains of your system and allow port forwarding, QoS, deep packet inspection, etc.

Ubiquiti Networks 8-Port UniFi Switch, Managed PoE+ Gigabit Switch with SFP, 150W (US-8-150W) - this gives you 8 ports, all of which can be enabled for power over ethernet which can easily power your security cameras and access points. If you don't need this then you can get the cheaper non-PoE switch Ubiquiti US-8 Unifi Switch

Ubiquiti Networks Unifi 802.11ac Dual-Radio PRO Access Point (UAP-AC-PRO-US) - This is a great access point to give you fast wifi at a great range. This plugs directly into your switch via ethernet cable. If you need to extend you wifi then you can get a second one and plug it in. These can be powered by PoE which is really nice.

Total cost: $461

I guarantee you would end up spending more upgrading an all in one router over the next few years. This will easily last you 10+ years if not more and be enterprise grade equipment.

u/NitroKoS · 2 pointsr/beermoney

I ran into the same issue, I now have 85+ devices on my network with zero problems. Your best bet is to scrap/sell your current network gear and build yourself a solid setup. I recommend the following (get as many switches and APs as needed, I am using 3 APs currently):

Cable Modem: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MA5U1FW

Router: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Security-Appliance-USG/dp/B00LV8YZLK

APs: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512

Unmanaged Switches: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-Gigabit-Desktop-GS108-400NAS/dp/B00MPVR50A

Software: Unifi Controller - this is free - https://www.ubnt.com/enterprise/software/

u/longjohnsilver30 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking
  1. The AC LR and the other Unifi access points come with a poe injector in the box. The manual tells you how to set it up.
  2. The switch is what take the internet from the USG and gives it to your wired devices. Even if you have no wired devices its recommended you have a switch since you can connect into the AP if it has issues wired. The switch I use. My setup is like this: Modem --> USG --> Switch --> AC LR --> wifi devices etc

  3. Yes the access point is what gives wifi to your house.

  4. The ERX has more features, but the USG is on the Unifi product line meaning it uses the same piece of software to manage as the LR. Unifi Controller . I can managed my whole network from the single software and not have to log directly in like the ERX. The controller software is how you setup and manage your network. So make sure you have it on one of your computers preferably a desktop or laptop with ethernet just in case you gotta go in hardwired.

    Here is a video showing a setup: https://youtu.be/HcfIpTso_Ys

    The cloud key is optional but if you have the money then go for it.
u/jabbyknob · 2 pointsr/TeslaModel3

Don’t use that netgear garbage. Ubiquiti makes really nice enterprise class network equipment which is super simple to set up and manage. At a minimum, all you need is cat5-e (cat 6 fine too) distributed around the house and a couple access points connected to the hard lines:

Ubiquiti Networks Unifi 802.11ac Dual-Radio PRO Access Point (UAP-AC-PRO-US) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRO512/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gHiRDbHKHSSRR

(2 access points cover my 2500 sqft house and a third covers my detached garage and back yard)


You can optionally buy a PoE switch (power over Ethernet) to connect to the access points so that the power is transmitted through the network cable and you don’t have to plug them in to a wall outlet. This will work if you choose this route (you will have to configure this switch to turn on PoE on ports connected to access points).

Ubiquiti UniFi Switch 8 60W (US-8-60W) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MU3WUX1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nNiRDbW2HP8HG


Any one of these progressive options is a valid stopping point, but I recommend buying the secure router/gateway and then the cloud key. These allow you to do advanced network management (main + guest Wi-Fi networks, custom qos throttling):

Ubiquiti Unifi Security Gateway (USG) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LV8YZLK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1RiRDbW5SEFNM


Ubiquiti UniFi Cloud Key (UC-CK) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017T2QB22/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vSiRDb8SMX7ZY


The guest network is worth the price of admission for added security. Put all your random wireless devices (i.e. the internet of things) on this network to isolate them from your major devices (PCs and phones). Reason being the IoT devices are frequently hacked and used to access your home network.

u/MaxTheKing1 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

>it seemed you needed a lot of additional equipment.

Well, you can, you don't have to. For a basic network you'd only need their access point and a router of some sort (doesn't have to be theirs). You can just use the current switch you linked.

>What would be an equivalent setup from ubiquiti that's cheaper?

For the Wi-Fi you can get 2 or 3 UAP-AC-LITEs, which use Power over Ethernet, so you only need a single cable to each access point that carries both data and power. Which router you use really doesn't matter much, but the USG from Ubiquiti is a popular choice, it also integrates really well in the UniFi ecosystem. Another advantage is the UniFi controller, which is basically a central management interface for all UniFi products. You can try it out here.

u/Tourman36 · 2 pointsr/homelab
u/TheChosenOne013 · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Link and I can also vouch for this one. Works great.

u/CopperRaven · 2 pointsr/splatoon

I'm not going to say this will totally work for you because I don't know all the factors that made this work for me but here is what I did. (my switch was also too far away to run a cable to). I bought this https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Pass-Through-TL-PA4020P-KIT/dp/B010Q29OW6/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1509712689&sr=8-8&keywords=ethernet+powerline+adapter and this https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Ethernet-Adapter-Nintendo-Chromebook/dp/B00MYT481C/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1509712641&sr=8-5&keywords=switch+ethernet+adapter&dpID=41xJwvUzySL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

The powerline adapter was easy to set up and in my house the outlets they are in are on different breakers and that seems fine. After setting them up, plugging in the switch, and setting it to run on wired not wi-fi there's one more thing I did. In a connection test I saw my nat type was B also, everyone said that wasn't great and it should be A for best performance so after lots of googling I figured out how to change that in my router settings.

For me I have comcast so to get to my router settings I type 10.0.0.1 into my address bar and enter the default username and password for comcast (admin ; password) then on the left there is and advanced tab and under that DMZ. Enable that and for the host set the switch's ip witch you can see in the connection test, mine was 10.0.0.11 yours will probably be different. Save that then run a connection test again and it should be type A. Whatever router you have should have something similar so just google how to set up dmz for your specific brand.

After doing this I very rarely disconnect.

u/NewFoundRemedy · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

USB Ethernet adapter plugs right into the usb on the dock, the one I bought is $9 on Amazon, then you plug an ethernet cable from your router into the adapter which you can also get fairly cheaply on Amazon.

u/TomC90 · 2 pointsr/Splatoon_2

Yes, USB to Ethernet. Best Idea ever if you use the Switch not Mobile. For the Station. so its really good. I used it for the WiiU and now for the Switch.
https://www.amazon.de/UGREEN-Netzwerk-Ethernet-kompatibel-unterst%C3%BCtzt/dp/B00MYT481C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1501233983&sr=8-2&keywords=nintendo+switch+lan+adapter

here is one but there are more of them in amazon. There is a Adapter sell from Nintendo but that is to expensive.

u/Byron1421 · 2 pointsr/Splatoon_2

://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00MYT481C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_a3iNzb0BGNAR9

Nope, this one :P

u/philipcongle · 2 pointsr/splatoon

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Ethernet-Adapter-Nintendo-Chromebook/dp/B00MYT481C/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1525189536&sr=8-4&keywords=lan+adapter

This one is only $10. Depending on your router, you may not notice a big difference though. I've played both ways and do notice a little less lag when using the adapter.

u/Jamaz · 2 pointsr/CrazyHand

I haven't heard of bogus ethernet adapters causing issues unless we're talking some no-name brand from Alibaba. There's a good chance you bought the same one as me from Amazon which hasn't given me problems: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MYT481C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

What I suggest is to try out your other Switch games to test out their connection. Or you can setup a Battle Arena with competitive ruleset to attract someone who probably has a wired connection - or ask a friend/Discord rando to join your arena and test the lag. If it works, then it's the opponent's bad connection, but if it doesn't, it's something to do with yours.

u/deltasalmon · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I use this one. It works great and hasn't bricked my system.

u/ThatNormalBunny · 2 pointsr/splatoon

To my knowledge Nintendo aren't selling one themselves but there are a load you can buy that should work.

I am using this one, UGREEN USB Ethernet , USB Network Adapter - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MYT481C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've had no problems with it and all I had to do was plug it into the Switches dock

u/oakwooden · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I'd like to put this here as a cheaper alternative to the official Nintendo adapter. Haven't had any problems with it, works great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MYT481C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/iroflmaowtf · 2 pointsr/Romania

> Se gaseste un router bun la 200-300 de lei?

aproape, eu am luat tp link archer c5 acum ceva ani(inca merge bine), era scump ca pla, astazi sunt mult mai ieftine; pe c5 am instalat openwrt

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-AC1900-Smart-Router/dp/B00PDLRHFW

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-AC1750-Smart-Router/dp/B00BUSDVBQ


u/JayClear · 2 pointsr/Comcast

Your link is the exact modem I was talking about. This is the router.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PDLRHFW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-9KEAb4ZRN28B

The code takes off $10 and the coupon take off $10. Bringing the router down to $79. The modem has a $10 coupon too.

u/fularagin · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Was looking into routers today myself, ended up going with this router.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-AC1900-Wireless-Archer-C9/dp/B00PDLRHFW?ie=UTF8&tag=topwirelessrouter-chart-20

Search around a bit but I ended up ordering that one

u/dakoellis · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

with that kind of download, just look for anything that is AC at this point. the Archer C9 is $69.99 on Amazon right now for me

u/scm02 · 2 pointsr/AppleWhatShouldIBuy

TP-Link makes a relatively affordable ($108 USD) Wireless AC Router (Archer C9) that has Time Machine support.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1900-Wireless-Wi-Fi-Router/dp/B00PDLRHFW
http://www.tp-link.com/no/faq-1564.html

Comes with a USB 2 and USB 3 port, has a smartphone app for changing settings, and supports simultaneous broadcast of 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz.

u/kurizmatik · 2 pointsr/LasVegas

Nope. Just don’t be like the people in past threads across the Vegas subs who want the fastest speeds then buy the cheapest router. We have this but I’d get the one for $150 so you don’t have to pay to rent a modem from Cox. We pay $88ish a month for 150 and pull closer to 300

u/oreesama · 2 pointsr/buildapc

i use this one, https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1900-Smart-Wireless-Router/dp/B00PDLRHFW so i can only give you feedback on it.

It works great overall, great signal almost anywhere that there isn't a thick concrete wall on my property blocking the signal.

u/slothlovereddit · 2 pointsr/FortNiteBR

My internet used to be trash, not 1000+ ping trash but there were plenty of times where I was experiencing lag or ping spikes to the point I would say my internet was garbage.

I ended up buying a AC1900 router (link here) and a new CAT7 cable. My speeds practically quadrupled, I ended up going from ~50mbps to nearly 200mbps. Part of me wonders if it was my Ethernet cable all along, but I'm still happy with the purchase of the AC1900 router. My Xbox is downstairs and my router is upstairs, with the old router I was having issues connecting the 5ghz line due to distance but also the 2.4ghz band was royally fucked on because of all my neighbors and their WIFI. With this router I have 0 issues connecting to the 5ghz band.

My ping isn't in the single digits, but it is consistently between 10-20ms now whereas before it was ~30 at best all the way up to 500 when shit hit the fan for whatever reason.

u/rsquared17 · 2 pointsr/computers

I would recommend buying a new router, and looking for one with beamforming capabilities. Essentially it's a feature that allows the router to triangulate the device using the wireless, and concentrate a density of connection between it and the router. This is a far stronger bond than the normal radial signal production. The range extender would not work well, I have one in my house because my roommate brought it, and it has to have a connection to the router still. Putting it by your computer sounds like it wouldn't be able to connect well anyways, plus they drop the up/download speeds pretty drastically.
I live in a house with 7 other college students, everyone has 3 or 4 bandwidth intensive devices, and it's a 3 story building. This router has exceeded expectations by far.
TP-Link AC1900 Wireless Long Range Wi-Fi Gigabit Router (Archer C9) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PDLRHFW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Sn6hybNMTRNYM

u/infered5 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Your modem wasn't an issue, it was the router attached to the modem. I think you wasted your money there.

If you want a hecking good router, the [Asus AC5300 is a fan favorite] (https://www.amazon.com/Tri-band-AiProtection-Accelerator-Compatible-RT-AC5300/dp/B0167HG1V6/ref=bdl_pop_ttl_B0167HG1V6). Ensure you sacrifice an xbox 360 to it now and then to keep it happy.

[The TP-Link Archer AC1900] (https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-AC1900-Smart-Router/dp/B00PDLRHFW/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522431079&sr=1-3&keywords=dual+band+router+tp-link) also has great wireless speeds and control. I recommend this one, TPLink has good products.

u/UnrealObserver · 2 pointsr/cordcutters

For Comcast approved modems, see these links:

https://customer.xfinity.com/help-and-support/internet/list-of-approved-cable-modems/

https://mydeviceinfo.xfinity.com/

There are both standalone cable modems listed and combo (gateway) modem-wifi router units. Use the radio buttons on the side of the second link to specify what you are looking for

I prefer separate units... if something goes wrong, easier to troubleshoot, and separate units give a lot more control over settings/user preferences

The Arris SB6190 may have some issues not yet solved.

I am using an Arris SB6183 on Charter (former TWC) 200/20... very stable. I bought it refurbished off ebay from an approved vendor... no problems. ebay prices are about $70 - $80, Costco also sells that exact unit new for $89.99, item 1080070

I am using a TP-Link AC1900 Archer C9 wireless router...

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1900-Wireless-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00PDLRHFW

Whatever you choose, recommend putting it in the same room as your TV/Streaming box... and use 5Ghz if possible to avoid wifi interference

I am sure others will have their own ideas.... Hope this helps and good luck!



u/triplethej · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I've got a pair of Yamaha HS7 at home and I only use it for listening to music without any studio monitoring purposes, I just like the flat response of it.
So I am currently listening to music in 2 ways:

  1. Connecting the Mac aux output to HS7's unbalanced jack input via CMP-159 cable (link below); which probably uses the shitty built-in soundcard in Mac to do all the DAC conversions.

  2. Connecting the Mac to Logitech Bluetooth Adapter (link below) via Bluetooth then connecting the Logitech Bluetooth Adapter to HS7's unbalanced jack input via CMP-159 cable, which then probably uses the shitty built-in soundcard in the logitech bluetooth adapter to do all the DAC conversions.

    However; to get a better, more clear and balanced (through XLR inputs of HS7's maybe) sound from HS7's, I think I have to use a better soundcard than the built-in Mac or built-in Logitech adapter. Meanwhile, I also want to continue to listen to music via bluetooth.
    So THE QUESTION is, are there any sound cards that has a built-in bluetooth function or is it just impossible/meaningless to use bluetooth if I'm asking for a better quality of sound due to latency, data transmission etc.?

    I am not an audio guy, and this is my first professional setup, so I'd be really glad if you can help me out here. I have found a couple mixers that has a bluetooth function such as Focusrite Scarlett 2i4 but I'm not sure if that's what I'm looking for, or if they're any better than the logitech adapter.

    Yamaha HS7: https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-HS7-100-Watt-Monitor-Black/dp/B00CFOXHGS/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1486638385&sr=1-3&keywords=yamaha+hs7

    CMP-159: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486638237&sr=8-1&keywords=cmp+159

    Logitech Bluetooth Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-980-000910-Bluetooth-Adapter-Streaming/dp/B00IQBSW28/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486638259&sr=8-1&keywords=logitech+bluetooth+audio+adapter
u/alecfrey · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Is there a "cheap, good" preamp similar to the schiit sys but that has 3 inputs? That would allow me to hook up my pc, turntable, and this bluetooth receiver. https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Bluetooth-Audio-Adapter-Streaming/dp/B00IQBSW28

u/Caswell64 · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Yes, this is easily doable. Just add a Bluetooth dongle like this and it should work. Just make sure not to plug it into the PHONO input- that has special characteristics and is for turntables only! Any other input (CD, VID,. etc) should be fine.

u/adayinalife · 2 pointsr/vinyl
u/egamble · 2 pointsr/vintageaudio

There are a few ways to do this, the simplest is with a bluetooth receiver and cellphone, I have this one and it sounds okay: http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-980-000910-Bluetooth-Audio-Adapter/dp/B00IQBSW28

The best way to do this is with a USB DAC, this is the cheapest: http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI and works pretty well. There are lots of different ones with different features, you can spend from 30 to 300 easily.

USB DACs will work with windows and android cellphones with OS 5 (lollipop) and higher. I'm not sure about mac or linux support. Something like this may be useful: http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B005PWPUW6 if you just want to connect optical or coaxial out from a device.

u/unndunn · 2 pointsr/OLED

Bluetooth audio adapter? Supports volume control via the remote.

u/ososospechoso · 2 pointsr/Doesthisexist

Just in case it doesn't exist, you could hack together an equivalent setup with the following:

Connect the outputs on this switch to your amplifier with one of these cables.

Connect this Bluetooth receiver to one input on the switch with another of these cables.

Finally, connect a cable like this to the other input on the audio switch for the 3.5mm/non-Bluetooth devices. It's not as elegant as what you're looking for, but it should work.

Apologies if you've already thought of something like this and were just trying to avoid it!

u/BierTech · 2 pointsr/audio

Wait, wait. You say MOSTLY because youd like to use bluetooth isntead of CDs?

You can buy a bluetooth adapter and cable for $30. You plug this into the AUX connection on the back of your old Panasonic and its not bluetooth! I have a receiver from 1991 in my garage doing the same thing...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IQBSW28/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-40465-Value-Audio/dp/B0019MCI94/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1504625718&sr=8-8&keywords=rca+to+rca

u/youraverageinsanity1 · 2 pointsr/audio

You're unlikely to find a mixer that has those inputs built in. Your best bet would be to use adapters for all those sources and just plug those in on the 1/4in jacks. Keeping in mind though that you should also look for mixers that support panning individual channels; each jack on a mixer typically just supports mono audio, so you'd have to send it back to left / right.

For example, I use a Mackie 402 on my desk. If I want to plug in a stereo line on channels 1 and 2, that "STEREO PAN" button has to be enabled to keep it from mono'ing them both.

Off the top of my head, something like the X Air series supports linking two channels and simultaneously controlling them + L/R panning them, for multiple channels, which you would probably need with your amount of inputs. A quick look and the Mackie ProFX12 would also probably suit your needs. Both of these are probably a little overkill for exactly what you need, but generally they both have the ability to properly handle your sources once they're in 1/4in form.

I'm kind of going on at length on this because I 100% did not consider it as a problem to be aware of when buying my mixer for my purposes and just lucked out that everything works.

For those adapters, a bluetooth receiver and appropriate cables for that particular unit, optical converter, and if "A/V audio" means RCA, just slap that RCA-1/4 from earlier in as well.

u/regreddit · 2 pointsr/mobileDJ

I use this:

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Bluetooth-Audio-Adapter-Streaming/dp/B00IQBSW28

I currently use a single mic, but having 2 wouldn't complicate things at all really, as long as you have input channels for it.

u/say_the_words · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

These are the two the connect everytime a paired device near is playing. Like if you're listening to your phone through a BT headset or the car stereo when you pull into the driveway.

Logitech
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IQBSW28/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amazon Basics
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I59VBH4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/onliandone · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

Basically nothing of this will fit into the second case. The mainboard for example is ATX, and in that size finding a X470 board is not an issue. Are you dropping the idea of later moving to the small case?

Things I'd change in the S340:

  • The G3 has issues with the fan curve, I'd get the Seasonic Focus Gold or the Corsair RMx instead.
  • The Hyper 212 is not a great cpu cooler, I'd get the Dark Rock 3, Scythe Fuma or something similar, at least a Cryorig H7.

    > If I want to wirelessly connect it what’s the best option?

    In the small case, the ITX mainboard will have wifi included, and that is really the best option here. Your only alternative would be a Wifi USB-stick. For a regular ATX board you can get a wifi card like https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Wi-Fi-Express-Adapter-PCE-AC56/dp/B00JNA337K. But if you are not moving the PC around anyway try to use an ethernet cable.

    > Also if I have the budget should I put more into the keyboard or different monitor.

    I'd get a different monitor then, something like this Agon up to a Gsync monitor like the ASUS PG279Q
u/N8TM8T · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

LAN is superior to Wifi in almost every way. BUT, I know in some situations running an ethernet cable is either not possible (because they would need to run a wire through their whole house since they don't have built in LAN ports in their house). Wifi WILL cause you to have SLIGHTLY higher ping and can have issues such as losing connection, or lag. BUT if you need to go with wifi, get a decent Wifi card, dont go with a little USB thing or a cheap wifi card. Ive tried both and they suck. So my recommendation is 1)if possible, do LAN, 2)if not possible, buy something like this: https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Wi-Fi-Express-Adapter-PCE-AC56/dp/B00JNA337K/ref=sr_1_8?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1518132118&sr=1-8&keywords=wifi+card

u/FaisalKhatib · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I use the ASUS PCE-AC56 PCI on my second PC. Zero complains.

u/osfrid · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Finally, after all these reviews, i'm going to buy these pieces and build my masterpiece-wannabe.

I would like to thanks /u/Raffles7683 for his dedicated, nice and smart help ! Also, thanks to /u/DIK-FUK and /u/golli123.



That's it, the final configuration, which is 2€ cheaper than the first one. WHAT A SAVE. But it's all the way better. I finally picked a I7-6700k as a CPU since nobody seems to know at which point a I5-6600k will bottleneck the GTX 1080, even with a 4.5 Ghz overclock. The debate is running litteraly everywhere and no one has the same point of view. So... I guess i can throw 100€ by the window to be sure and to overlock a i7 to 4.4 Ghz.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU |Intel Core i7-6700K | €325.79 - Amazon.it
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | €34.99 - Amazon.it
Motherboard | Asus Z170-P ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | €109.61 - Amazon.fr
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | €126.04 - Amazon.it
Storage | Sandisk SSD PLUS 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | €74.00 - Amazon.es
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | €53.44 - Amazon.fr
Video Card | KFA2 GeForce GTX 1080 EXOC 8GB Video Card | €560.00 - French shop
Case | Fractal Design Define S ATX Mid Tower Case | €76.32 - Amazon.de
Power Supply | Corsair CSM 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | €78.99 - Amazon.es
Wireless Network Adapter | Asus PCE-AC56 PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | €48.00 - Amazon.de
Monitor | Acer XB271HU bmiprz 27.0" 2560x1440 165Hz Monitor | €699.90 - French shop
| Total | €2187.08



  • The CPU has been edited according to /u/Raffles7683's review and /u/DIK-FUK's build suggest. And updated, because no one knows what is a bottleneck, in real world.
  • The RAM / SSD has been edited according to /u/Raffles7683's review, again.
  • The case has been edited according to /u/golli123's review


    I will provide some news in the future with, probably, in build photos :)
u/CodingCore_ · 2 pointsr/buildapc

> It really depends. Not all laptops are equal, nor are all PCIe cards. If you want the best wifi signal I suggest getting a card with an antenna you can move to a good spot.

A good choice: https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Wi-Fi-Express-Adapter-PCE-AC56/dp/B00JNA337K/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1495461120&sr=8-4&keywords=pci+ac+wifi

u/SlowBoiGuy · 2 pointsr/buildapc

ASUS PCE-AC56 Carte PCIe Wi-Fi double bande AC1300 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00JNA337K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wwJIBbJ0HZKMY

u/Redemption_vT · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/whoitbecuh · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Here it is, looking back I got it on sale for $45. I think wifi 6 is out now but not very mainstream, maybe wait for manufactures to start making wifi 6 cards for future proofing.

u/liberateus · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Amazon link for this

u/Nvidiuh · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Asus makes some excellent PCI-E Wi-Fi cards. I have a PCE-AC56 and it has worked flawlessly for me for over two and a half years. It's well within your price range and it offers excellent performance. If you're looking for something a bit more powerful, the PCE-AC68 is basically the upgrade to the PCE-AC56, and I can only assume it performs slightly better. A final choice is to go balls to the wall overkill with the PCE-AC88, which I find hard recommending unless you need massive range and signal strength, which doesn't seem to be something you require. It's also out of your stated price range, so this one is entirely up to you. Any one of these should handily solve your problem. If you're looking for a good quality Wi-Fi solution that doesn't take advantage of your wallet like a prison bitch, the PCE-AC56 is a great choice.

u/spokemons · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Never does. The dual and triple band stuff never works for me. I've even moved the router in the same room as my pc... it got worse.

Wifi is great for every device but my PC. My next option was to purchase either this:

https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1900-PCI-E-Adapter-PCE-AC68/dp/B00F42V83C/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1482931397&sr=8-13&keywords=wifi+pci

or this:

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Wi-Fi-Express-Adapter-PCE-AC56/dp/B00JNA337K/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1482931397&sr=8-4&keywords=wifi+pci

For me personally, I used an old ethernet cable and ran that shit literally around my room. I could not justify the $60-$90 to buy a better PCIe card. Another Option could be to get a USB dongle and then have it on a long USB Cable that you can position to get a good signal (maybe?)

u/tkim91321 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

What will the machine be used for?

If the primary use is for gaming, I recommend a i5 and use that money saved on something else.

As for AIO, it's only necessary if you plan on overlcocking (which I assuming you are since you did pick a K processor). Otherwise, it's a purely aesthetic factor that costs $100+.

Also, I would advise that you get a wireless network card that supports AC as well. I have this one from Asus and it has been phenominal. I don't know if you have a AC compatible router at home but it's worth spending a little extra for more futureproof-ness.

u/OC_Rookie · 2 pointsr/techsupport

There are always USB adapters such as this one or ones that go into your PCIE slots if you have an open slot and your CPU has enough PCIE lanes such as this one .

u/JustNilt · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Sorry for the delay in getting bck to you from the other thread. Life, ya know?

That looks pretty good. I've had bad luck with TP-Link stuff, preferring these Asus WiFi cards when I can use them. Can't say if you can find one where you are but, if so, I'd go with that instead.

Sorry to keep linking to Amazon but I hate PCPArtPicker. :P

u/EleNova · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

1: wifi card: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JNA337K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2: i wouldn't say its necessary, but its future proof for a while. The bare minimum for a gaming desktop is 8GB. personally, i'd say go for it. Make the upgrade to 16, even if you're not using 8 right now.

3: NZXT S340 is always a good go-to case. Cheap, great cable management, a place to actually hide most of your hard drives and cables, etc.

4: be tedious. Check everything over 2 or 3 times. Wires are in the correct place and snug. motherboard is properly spaced as to avoid shortages. Hard drives are configured correctly. Ram sticks are in the correct recommended spots as per your motherboard manufacturer's guide. It's so much better to take longer and get it right the first time than to have some of your stuff sent back because you messed up and fried it/broke it/didn't make sure it was compatible ahead of time.

u/jonathonhillyard · 2 pointsr/networking

Unifi stack all the way:

Unifi Security Gateway: Ubiquiti Unifi Security Gateway (USG) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LV8YZLK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ouoqDbNGPTMRV

Unifi PoE switch (if needed): Ubiquiti UniFi Switch - 24 Ports Managed (US-24-250W) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJZUQ24/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2uoqDbP4PF520

Unifi AP nanoHD: Ubiquiti UniFi nanoHD Compact 802.11ac Wave2 MU-MIMO Enterprise Access Point (UAP-NANOHD-US) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DWW3P6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rvoqDb562BQEE

Total: $667.56

No VLANs necessary for your scale.

If you don’t want to manage a Unifi Controller, we offer that as a service for customers. https://peopleit.com or give us a call at (616) 594-7100 if you have any questions.

u/dotcomdock · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Nice place you got there!

With regard to interference there shouldn’t be any given that you would mostly be operating on 5G.

Second of all of all I would suggest getting a rack mount given that you have hard wiring through the house.

These would be the things you need;

-Rack mount

This is what holds all of your components in a rack type manner.

-Patch panel

This is what will allow you to interface with the hard wiring in your home. It’s essentially a Ethernet jack on your rack allowing you to activate and deactivate certain ports.

-A network switch of some sort (maby ubiquiti)

This is what will give you more ports for all of your wired devices, patch panel and WAPs. I recommend ubiquiti switches because they are high quality but you can start off small (they are a bit pricey)

-PDU

This is a special kind of power strip that is especially made for this kind of setup.

-Patch cabling

These are the Ethernet cables that will connect all the different kinds of ports on your devices.

-Access point for every floor (so 3).

These are what will provide WiFi to your house because the USG doesn’t have wireless.

-Router (USG)

USG stands for Ubiquiti Security Gateway, this is a firewall built in to your network, and a router. I highly recommend this one.

-And I would recommend going for a gigabit plan.

The gigabit plan is just so much better. It’s faster and it’s reliable.

The access points that you listed will work fine. Just go with the most recent and you will be all set.

Now the setup I recommended is a bit overkill for your current setup but given you said you kids might get into gaming I have no doubt that eventually you will be using it to your full capacity.



DM me if you have any questions.

u/FatFingerHelperBot · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users.
I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!


Here is link number 1 - Previous text "USG"



----
^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete

u/Shrappy · 2 pointsr/sysadmin

You'll want some Ubiquiti equipment for this functionality and price point. Ubiquiti wifi AP's can broadcast multiple SSIDs, each on their own VLAN. Back that with a ubiquiti switch which also supports vlans, and you should be good to go.

Swtich here, AP here, and I'd recommend a new router so you know the vlan segregation extends all the way to the firewall, so here's the USG.

Granted, VLAN's are not a security tool and it is relatively easy to bypass them, but this should do for home use.

u/gonza18 · 2 pointsr/GooglePixel

Just to add. I have a pixel 2 and this one is working with no issues to me.

TP-Link Wireless Router AC1900 Smart WiFi Dual-Band Gigabit (Archer C9) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PDLRHFW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nrybBbZ9277YR

u/Maxpowerfreak · 2 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

Hey, I've got the following router: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00PDLRHFW/

It has a usb 3.0 plug in which I can plug something like a hard drive or usb, and then you can set it up to have a media server under your network.

I've been looking for a hard drive to throw on there, should I get a normal HDD and buy a separate enclosure, or should I get a one of those portable hard drives?

I'm looking at using it to store the 35gb of STL files I've accumulated thus far and probably movies/shows. 2TB would be best I would guess.

Is it a good idea to use the router's usb port for this? Or should I reuse my raspberry pi 3+ with RetroPie that's gathering dust? If yes for the pi, any good tutorials out there? Thanks :D

u/Wolf_PM · 2 pointsr/SSBPM

I'm trying to figure out how to lower my ping for netplay, anyone have any suggestions?

​

I have a good PC and monitor, and when I had my last netplay match the connection was ok on my end at least, but I'm trying to see how to lower it
I think it said 32 on dolphin, I just ran an internet connection test and it says
Ping: 7ms
Download: 119.7 Mbps
Upload: 9.3 Mbps
Jitter: 1ms
is that bad?
I just checked my ISP account and it says its up to 50 Mbps Download and up to 5 Mbps upload, I have CAT 5e ethernet cables hooked up to this modem: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AJHDZSI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and this router: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PDLRHFW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So those might be the problem?

u/fmillion · 2 pointsr/homelab

Thanks for all the comments! I think I'll be going with the LR.

To answer people's concerns:

  1. I do have a full infrastructure already going in my homelab, with multiple VLANs each with existing DHCP servers and routers. So I actually do want "just an AP". (I also have a NAS so I definitely don't need the "readyShare" cheap NAS that Nighthawks have.)

  2. The Pro is around $144 on eBay, but I can get an LR for $107.59 on Amazon with free Prime shipping. http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UAP-AC-LR-Networks-Enterprise-System/dp/B015PRCBBI?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_3&smid=A1B5ZP69N9WQBH

    It's looking like all three WAPs (Lite, LR and Pro) all have the same core feature set and their only differences are their maximum speed and range (and physical size). Once I get around to remodeling the rest of my house, I'll probably throw a Lite WAP on each floor and stick the LR against the back wall as I said before. (Long term remodeling will be to bring an Ethernet feed out to the garage, so then I could throw the LR in the garage for even better outdoor range.)

    I'll post on here once I get my WAP and let everyone know how it works for my setup, but given the cost and Amazon's return policy I can't see this going wrong.

u/bigbonelessjerk · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I need to build a whole new network because the cable modem is only the Spectrum bare bones with nothing but a wired connection. If I'm seeing this correctly, I would need the EdgerouterX plus the Ubiquiti Unifi Ap-AC Long Range plus a [switch] (https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UniFi-Switch-60W-US-8-60W/dp/B01MU3WUX1/ref=pd_bxgy_147_3/134-2367728-7655000?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01MU3WUX1&pd_rd_r=441ae487-d265-4bf9-bee1-32808368ecd6&pd_rd_w=m61Fs&pd_rd_wg=RryX3&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=RWYB945JJK6S08X1HX3V&psc=1&refRID=RWYB945JJK6S08X1HX3V)for the wired LAN computer to connect to in the back of the house.

I could then plug the Unifi AP into either the EdgerouterX or the switch where my main computer is plugged in with Cat5. If necessary, I could get another Unifi AP and have them plugged in at both ends of the house in a wireless mesh.

u/shenghar · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Instead of a router why not get a proper AP with a management interface?

I use this at home and it does great.

u/havoc3d · 2 pointsr/applehelp

Honestly the AirPort ease of setup is the biggie. For most people it will automagically set most things.

I don't think routers are hard to set up via the webui but then again I do this stuff for a living. Something cheap like this honestly gets the job done in most cases where long range or AC isn't a requirement.

If you've gotta have AC you're probably looking at $150+ for a router. Honestly at that point I'd probably get a cheap router to act as a gateway and a nice stand-alone AP for wireless.

I almost never recommend running the "quick setup" disks that come with a lot of consumer routers; I've seen them do waaayyyyyy too many janky things to ever trust them. Some companies will have web-managed routers that do similar things to AirPorts but I'm just not super keen on having my inexpensive home router require a web account to configure/control.

That's all probably more than my 2 cents. More like 3.50.

u/xlowrimore · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Sounds like you have faulty old wireless routers that are interfering with each other. What you need is one new Router/A.P that has massive distance. I would recommend this: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Long-Range/dp/B015PRCBBI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1536702639&sr=8-1&keywords=ubuiti+ap

It's incredibly easy to setup, and it's range is 5x more than what you need. I personally have it, and I can sit in my car which is 90ft away and download a podcast before going to work. You can also pick up another one, and setup a mesh network. So the connectivity is full bars throughout the building. Hope this helps.

u/WhiskyTangoFoxtrot · 2 pointsr/Ubiquiti

Amazon has them for $98.41 if you have a Prime account

u/Tymanthius · 2 pointsr/CoxCommunications

How tech savy are you?

But consider this - $8/mo for 12 months is 96.

A good reliable DOCSIS 3.1 modem (only modem, not router) is $170 on amazon today. That's less than 2 years and modems tend to live a long time unless you have lots of lightening.

Now lets add a router - we'll get fancy and do EdgeRouter & Unifi Wifi Access Point.

Edgerouter is $60, and a UniFi AP that will cover MOST households better than a Linksys is 100.

So you spent $330 up front for a REALLY good system. If it lasts you 4.78 years you broke even. Mine has lasted me 2 years already thru mulitple storms in the gulf coast. Well, teh modem isn't that old b/c I had a non gigabit for a while as we didn't have that option.

u/myreality91 · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing

I completely forgot that Ubiquiti makes a long range access point.

I think this could be a good solution for you, I've heard of these being boosted to cover half a mile. It would involve turning off the wireless access point in your router and using this in place of that, so relatively minimal financial investment. You'd keep using the router as a router, just not a router/AP multifunction device.

u/r1ght0n · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I feel like I’m always repeating myself in this sub, but Ubiquiti access point all the way! Get the LR (long range) Version and you will be fine, I also have FiOS gigabit and use a LR without issue.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRCBBI/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_qoWOBb596MMGM

Also you can add more later if you feel the need....

u/Polarbear605 · 2 pointsr/ATT

Honestly this! Get a good AC AP LR and you shouldn’t have a single issue with range and throughout at a distance either. I had This and I could pick it up down the street and a buddy’s house on the backside of it actually. If you know how to set it up right and know where to place it all you will need is this singular AP.

u/NotBillNyeScienceGuy · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I suggest buying a UAP for the main house, if it's centrally located you should be OK. I have the UAP-LR and a very large house with marble floors and thick walls and it gets most the house.

Run an Ethernet cable to the guest house and setup another UAP there. You could use a MoCA Adapter to do this (since you apparently have one). Don't put two routers on the network, imagine the MoCA adapter as just extending the Ethernet cable.

You could also continue using your router supplied wifi and just use the uap for the guest house. I suggest 2 UAPs and a ubiquiti cloudkey or a computer running the controller to avoid interference issues.

u/dammer3 · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HXT8EKE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015PRCBBI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

i also have just a linksys switch just for more lan ports ;) the wifi strength and performance is great! look it up on youtube a bit more though!

Can be a bit more complicated to setup somewhat... but set it up from my phone w/o issues. 4000 sq foot house with zero signal issues! and that's with one access point.

u/TheLastEngineer · 2 pointsr/gadgets

I generally agree with you, although if you have a ton of devices or a larger space to cover then you may need to pay more for a router or access point that can meet those needs reliably.

I had a lot of trouble getting a distant dropcam to work reliably with powerline extenders, wifi extenders, etc. Eventually, I was able to get an Access Point that had enough range to pick it up, but none of the cheap ones I had around or even a $200 Airport Extreme (which seems to work well in all other scenarios) was able to deliver the range I needed.

Since people will probably ask, the one that worked was this: http://amzn.com/B015PRCBBI

u/PBI325 · 2 pointsr/wifi

Using the UniFi controller with UniFi APs will very easily and plainly let you know who is using what bandwidth. It'll also let you kick them off if you're so inclined.

Take a look at the hardware (link) and maybe google up on the UniFi controller itself to see if you like it. I'd highly suggest it personally.


u/meatwaddancin · 2 pointsr/GoogleWiFi

Your best case scenario would be to wire it into the same Google WiFi puck that is plugged into the modem. The second best scenario is if any of your two remote Wifi nodes were wired to the first, main node, then plugging your Xbox into one of those would mean your Xbox is basically wired directly to your modem.

As for anything else, it will depend on how good the wireless antennas are. However in my experience, I've found the wireless antennas on the Google WiFi pucks to be much better than any other common devices (phones, computer, consoles) for pretty obvious reasons.

So unless your Xbox One has amazing antennas that can beat a router, your second best option would be to plug you Xbox directly into one of the two remote nodes, which will basically be acting like a super WiFi antenna for your Xbox.

But, I'm a gamer too, and I feel your pain and also share you enthusiasm for trying to improve it. Here are some more general tips that can improve your internet even more 😁

  1. Let's start FREE. When playing on your Xbox, open up the Google Wifi app and make your Xbox the "priority device" for an hour or two. Other people browsing the web or watching Netflix won't notice, as if their connection is a little spottier, nothing really changes. Netflix still has few minutes of buffering ahead, so if it drops for a split second or two, nothing happens. For gaming, you'll feel every one of those same drops as lag.
  2. In the Google Wifi app settings, enable IPV6! Your ISP might not support it yet, but if not, nothing changes. If they do support it, awesome! Goodbye DNS issues, and hello speed improvements! I believe the Xbox One also supports IPV6, just check to see if it's also an optional setting or on by default. Sorry PS4 users, still IPV4 only :(
  3. Another obvious one, but turn off every device you aren't using while gaming. Set any PC's in your house to download their automatic updates at a time you aren't gaming. Cut down on the number of cordless phones and other 2.4GHz devices in your house. Keep other device's cables away from the pucks and Ethernet cables. Just do other similar things in that same line of thought.
  4. Move your pucks around. See if you can make improvements, the app can rate how strong the connection is. See if different places can achieve "Great" vs "Good" for strength. Try to avoid having a microwave between them. Try having them out in the open as possible, instead of behind a TV or inside a desk.
  5. For every part of your setup that IS wired, such as from the modem to the first puck and your Xbox to any puck, upgrade to CAT7 Ethernet cable at the shortest length actually needed. (Before I go forward and people throw shade, yes CAT7 is probably overkill for most people, but we're talking about gaming, overkill is in). Here's a link my recommendation of a proven, low price CAT7.
  6. OP has DSL, but for anyone that has Cable, same logic as last point, but for your Coax cables. Here is a quad shielded Coax cable. OP maybe see if there is such a thing as shielded phone line?
  7. Another thing for cable users: BUY YOUR OWN MODEM! First off, it pretty much pays for itself as a lot of cable companies are charging you every month for renting your modem. For Comcast/Xfinity, buying your own modem instantly cuts $10 off your monthly bill, forever. Your modem pays for itself in less than a year. But besides the savings, how can it help gaming? Well, you can buy yourself a modem with a lot of "channels". Think of channels as number of water pipes coming into your house, but for internet signal. Right now your modem might have 4-8. If your neighbors are all using the internet too, they might get congested. If your modem supported 32 channels, your pull would be much more distributed and you might see a more consistent, less congested internet. Here is my personal recommended modem of choice but if that's too pricey, downgrade to the model that only has 16 channels, SB6183. OP, again I don't have DSL, but do some research to see if buying your own modem device can improve your connection, or at the least save you money if you are "renting" from your ISP.

    Hopefully that all helps you, and you can enjoy some lag-free gaming!
u/0110010001100010 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Not all-inclusive, still need some physical cables and such, but hopefully this is a starting point:

16-port gig switch: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00GG1AC7I/ Probably overkill but a few more ports doesn't cost all THAT much more and this leaves you plenty of room for expansion. Also managed so can setup VLANs, QoS, whatever.

Router: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00HXT8EKE/ These are solid for home and small business use. Config can be a little tricky if you are using any of the advanced features but plenty of throughput (1 million pps). Also supports VLANs if you want to spin up a guest wifi later.

Wireless AP: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B015PRO512/ This supports multiple SSIDs on different VLANs and offers really solid performance for not a ton of money. From the physical space you listed below I'm thinking one should me more than enough.

Cable modem: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B016PE1X5K/ I know you said this wasn't finalized but thought I would toss it in anyway. Don't skimp here, a low-end modem will really limit throughput and can crash under heavy-load. Whatever you go with make sure it's on your ISPs compatibility list! They may not support it if not.

That should put a total around $512 USD or so JUST FOR HARDWARE. Keep in mind this is a pretty basic setup but should serve as a starting point. You'll still need the physical cabling and someone able to set it all up. As mentioned earlier also this is only MY BEST GUESS as to what you will need. Please don't take this as your bible or anything like that. :)

I know I mentioned it before but I really don't mind helping set things up if needed. I'm not going to be your "call at 3AM tech guy" but if you need a bit here and there I can try to assist. :) Let me know if you have any questions or thoughts on the build. Cheers!

EDIT: Something else to keep in mind that's not really network related is backups. YOU NEED THIS. Even if you go with a cloud service like carbonite or whatever, you need to make sure the PCs have regular backups. You WILL have a hard drive die and need to pull a backup from somewhere.

u/XxSliphxX · 2 pointsr/Comcast

I bought my own router and modem and get faster speeds because of it. I'm a heavy gamer so speed and stability across multiple devices is extremely important for me.

ARRIS SURFboard SB6190 DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem : https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6190-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B016PE1X5K/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1468824877&sr=1-1&keywords=ARRIS+SURFboard+SB6190+DOCSIS+3.0+Cable+Modem

Linksys AC2600 4 x 4 MU-MIMO Dual-Band Gigabit Router : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UVN21DK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also suggest investing in some good Cat6 cables much higher data transfer rates than the normal cat5 most people use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E5I7XC6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

May seem pricey to some people but this is something you will be using 24/7 for years so imo it's better to pay upfront for quality rather than go the cheap route and have nothing but issues. Also not renting equipment anymore pretty much makes them pay for themselves.

u/Kirbsotros · 2 pointsr/irvine

At my apartment, we dont use any of the cox equipment (Saving us $9 a month), and we have an Arris Surfboard serving as out modem. We use a TP Link C7 as our router. We dont have any problems. Now, we are paying for 400 mbps, so these models may be overkill. You can easily switch in the older models.

u/QWERTYtheASDF · 2 pointsr/houston

I have bounced between the two frequently and have found that cable speeds depends on how many people are hooked up to the box in either yours or your neighbors backyard. Comcast also did tend to go out quite a bit, but they usually are aware of the outage pretty fast and will send people out to repair. Moved to Richmond and decided to give AT&T's fiber a try. From what I found, you do get close to the advertised 1gbps at 940 down / 940 up. Probably a hardware limitation. HOWEVER, I believe AT&T throttles certain traffic such as Youtube for some reason. Can't even play some videos at 480p.

For gaming, try to avoid wireless since that introduces more latency than a wired connection.

Either way, with both companies, look at the fine print and what they are charging you. If you're going with Comcast, buy your own modem such as this, otherwise they will charge you a rental fee for a crappy modem. They also have a 1 TB data cap IIRC. With AT&T, check to see if they charge rental fees or not. I believe that AT&T forces you to use their gateway BUT doesn't charge a rental fee.

u/zephroth · 2 pointsr/technology

Those ciscos surfboards are the bomb. I have an Arris surfboard as well though. https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6190-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B016PE1X5K/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1466773813&sr=1-1&keywords=arris+3.1

Go big or go home amirite?

Edit: Corrected info that was pointed out to me

u/chi_nate · 2 pointsr/chicago

>So what you are saying is if i have a router that supports 802.11AC as well as a 16 channel modem i will experience no such bottleneck with connection?

I think most of the bottlenecks people in experience are due to one of those 2 factors. For example, in my apartment I can see 30+ other wifi networks but only 3 of them are on 5ghz (802.11N or 802.11AC.) That being said there are many different ways a bottleneck can occur on the public Internet most of them are beyond your control. What you can control is your cable modem and router.

>I do have a Netgear AC1750 Smart Wifi Router which does support 802.11AC. As far as the 16 channel modem, you said RCN supplies these now with the service?

The official line form RCN is they require you to rent their 3 in 1 gateway on their faster speed tiers. Unofficially many people are using their own (better) equipment. On paper the 3-1 gateway is a fine device but I found it to be sort of buggy. It also runs way hotter than I would prefer. I got sick of paying $7 / month for a buggy device. I switched to a SB6183 cable modem with Ubiquity AC pro access point both of which have been rock solid.

The specs on the netgear AC1750 seem awesome so I doubt you’ll have any issues with it. If you’re on a budget I pare it with a SB6183, you can find refurbs on ebay for around $60. If you want to through money at the situation get a SB6190. https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6190-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B016PE1X5K
Currently both devices will perform identical on RCN but it’s possible that the sb6190 will be better in the future as it supports up to 32 channels. Currently RCN deploys 16 channels in the Chicago area.


u/-Aaron- · 2 pointsr/Bend

I am using the Arris / Motorola Surfboard 6141 now, you can get them for $54.99 on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6141-Certified-Packaging/dp/B00AJHDZSI/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1499613249&sr=1-2&keywords=surfboard+modem

They have a newer model for $99 with a higher theoretical top speed, but I'm not sure if would have any effect for Bend Broadband: https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6190-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B016PE1X5K/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1499613249&sr=1-1&keywords=surfboard+modem

Not sure which model is at Costco

I would avoid modem / router combos. A separate router will have better WiFi reception and you won't need to replace your modem the next time a faster WiFi standard comes out.

u/Cl3v3landStmr · 2 pointsr/Louisville

What modem do you have? Even though a modem says it's capable of speeds of up to 343Mbps down, like the SB6141 (which is an 8x4 modem), TWC will only provision it for 100Mbps. You'll need at least a 16x4 modem (like the SB6183 or even the 32x8 SB6190 to utilize their 200/300 tiers. The reason for this is to cut down on node congestion.

u/Subaudible91 · 2 pointsr/chicago

If you really want to be prepared for gigabit service and want to spend the money on the modem now, buy this. If you want to save some money and be just fine for most normally priced service plans, buy this.

u/johnny-max · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Question for most affordable options for modem and wireless router.

I've upgraded my internet service to 500mbps and my current modem and router can't provide the speed. The isp installer said the Sb6190 modem would work, he said it should have at least "32 x 8 modem channels." My area is getting Google fiber soon which I may be interested in. Any options that could handle both?

u/zzzaacchh · 2 pointsr/gaming

Arris Surfboard is what I use.

u/AV1978 · 2 pointsr/phoenix

https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6190-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B016PE1X5K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498755031&sr=8-1&keywords=sb6190

Buy this modem. It's $99 on Amazon Prime delivered today. Supports up to 1.4Gbps throughput for the coming 1GoFiber service they will be offering in the fall.

Cheaper than renting. As to the business plan im curious why you didn't opt to go with the 300/100 plan instead? It's only $200 versus the $100, gives you more speed and its dedicated. On a residential plan you share your access with the neighborhood. On the business plan you do not.

u/unixwizzard · 2 pointsr/Comcast

I would recommend staying away from any of the modem/router combos. Mainly if one of the components goes bad you'll need to replace the whole thing.

I'm going on the assumption that you do not have the Comcast Voice (telephone) service, you can't go wrong with the SURFboard SB6183, SURFboard SB6190, or if you want to go cheap the Zoom 5341J is a good modem.

As for WiFi.. depends on your needs.. how many users, how big your house is, how much coverage is needed.. You can get something relatively low cost such as the TP-LINK TL-WDR3500 or you can spend a ton of cash on something like this monster ASUS RT-AC5300.


u/CommodoreC64 · 2 pointsr/PleX

Since I've had their service, my internet has crapped out at least 5 times and I just got their service maybe two months ago, so I went out and bought a new modem (from a list of supported modems on their site):

ARRIS SURFboard SB6190

This has excellent reviews; it's a shame though that they don't support DOCSIS 3.1 yet (heard they are working on it).

The router of choice I went with is: Ubiquiti EdgeRouter X x ER-X-SFP

and then I purchased this Wireless Access Point from Ubiquiti. High reviews, large coverage, and easy to setup/maintain.

All in all, for under $300 I feel good about my purchases and getting rid of this leased modem. I've always used ISP provided equipment, whether it be AT&T or Time Warner/Spectrum and it's been quite the headaches over the years and finally wanted to do something about it.

Not sure if any of this will help you out, but hopefully it does!

u/lyoko37 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Do you use Comcast VOIP? If you do, I know that can be harder to switch. If you don't I'd look at getting one of the Arris Surboards. I've always been a fan of them and they've worked well for me. I'd probably recommend looking at the Arris 6190 You can usually find them through Amazon's Open Box Warehouse for slightly cheaper.

I'm a fan of it because it supports 32 downstream channels while I believe Comcast's Gateway only supports 8. Most Comcast locations around the country have access to between 16-24 channels which means that you have more pipes to get your Internet from compared to only having 4-8 channels.

u/SemperFlux · 2 pointsr/linux

Ha, that's totally fair!

I thought at first I could get away with buying The SB6190 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016PE1X5K), because it said it was valid for 1.4Gbps downstream, but I could barely get 250 down out of it. I really don't understand where that claim comes from or why it's full of shit, but I really didn't care to figure it out.

I looked at Comcast's site and they actually recommended the SB8200. It was pricey, but it fit the bill and works great. I bought it from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Next-Generation-ARRIS-SURFboard-SB8200-DOCSIS/dp/B01N6SKK1G/

I bought mine for $210, but now, it looks like with the $20 coupon on the listing, you could get it for as little as $169, quite the deal.

What was nice for me was because I was moving up from an older Comcast registered modem, all I had to do was plugin the modem, plug my laptop directly into the modem, sign into my Comcast account, and boom, it took care of registering everything for me. I didn't have to manually register the MAC on the modem.

It was surprisingly and suspiciously easy for a standard Comcast service experience, so might not be as smooth for you.

u/loveshercoffee · 2 pointsr/desmoines

We have this modem and this router. We replaced lesser models of the same brands just this summer. They are on a shelf in the open in the center of our house on the first floor, not hidden in cabinetry or tucked away in a corner. We have an X-Box, a laptop for the grandchildren, a work laptop and an external hard drive connected to it via Cat 6 cable. Everything that can use 5 ghz uses that band, and everything else uses the 2.4 ghz band.

My laptop, which is on 2.4ghz, right now is blazing along at 49.95/mbps download and 14.41/mbps upload. What makes that even more lovely is that I'm the only one home. No one else is here even using any bandwidth. By this evening when the house is full of Netflix and YouTube users and such, I really don't even like to be online.

In addition to slow speed we have complete signal drops at least three times a week. Sometimes it will come back on its own but sometimes it doesn't cycle the modem and I have to manually reset everything. This isn't new to this modem. It used to happen with the modem before this one and the modem before that one and even back to the modem before that. The problem though, was 10x worse with the modem we had from Mediacom, which is what prompted us to buy our own.

Now, our house is quite old (built in 1899) but as there are a bajillion old houses in Des Moines and in Iowa in general, you would think that Mediacom would know by now if something in the construction of old houses interfered with wifi or cable or something of that nature.

All I know is that it's the same story over and over and over again. We have had Medicacom internet service since the very day it was offered and it has never lived up to the promise. We have had I don't know how many modems, computers, routers, phones, tablets and other devices that use the internet in that time.

Either this house is some kind of signal-jamming device or the speed is just not reaching us.

u/Herr_Rambler · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Get a modem than can handle as many downstream channels as possible.

SB6190

u/keastes · 2 pointsr/homelab

Try this

It's what I've got at home on Comcast's 200 so I know it works

u/kronickhigh · 2 pointsr/ColoradoSprings

Just picked up this one a couple months ago, it's been great so far https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B016PE1X5K/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/MericaMofoUSA · 2 pointsr/TriCitiesWA

You will want your own modem. You may have a $5/month charge for their modem. Or, if you have an older modem, it's probably free.

​

You can check Charter's approved modems I bought a ARRIS SURFboard that was approved by Charter and drastically improved speeds. You'll also want a wireless router, since the SURFboard doesn't have wireless capabilities. I got a Netgear Nighthawk that has been an excellent router for streaming to multiple TVs and gaming.

u/joeh4384 · 2 pointsr/hardwareswap

I have an Arris Surfboard SB6190 that I would sell. I am in Sterling Heights. I used it with both Comcast and WOW with no issues. I had 100 MBs service.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016PE1X5K/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/benderunit9000 · 2 pointsr/boston

Yes, SB 6190

u/japan_samsus · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I really like the [ASUS RT series] (https://www.amazon.com/RT-N66U-Dual-Band-Wireless-N900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B01LXL1AR8?th=1). The setup and interface I think is easier navigated than the TP links or netgears. In GUI it will notify you and autograb FW if needed. And the USB ports can be setup for whatever you want; I use mine on a hard drive for networked storage, much cheaper than setting up a NAS. The 3x3 is right at $100, archer c7 is 3x3 at $70. It always seems like the mid-high teir ASUS are more expensive, but at least for me less headache.

u/Lbc25 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Have a look at this: ASUS RT-ACRH13 Dual-Band 2x2 AC1300 Wifi 4-port Gigabit Router with USB 3.0 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXL1AR8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3Jojzb0C1J5QR

u/jacle2210 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Well, toss-out the Asus RT-N12; as it's only a single band router.

​

I have not really researched these, but they will be better than the RT-N12



ASUS (RT-ACRH13) Dual-Band 2x2 AC1300 Super-Fast Wifi 4-port Gigabit Router with MU-MIMO and USB 3.0

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXL1AR8/ref=psdc_300189_t2_B00DWFPDNO



or



TP-Link (Archer A7) AC1750 Smart WiFi Router - Dual Band Gigabit Wireless Internet Routers for Home, Works with Alexa, Parental Control&QoS

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JD7F7G/ref=psdc_300189_t3_B00DWFPDNO

​

u/archlich · 2 pointsr/Ubiquiti

I bought this asus over 2 years ago for $74. This asus looks like a comparable router for $59. This TP-Link is 33.50. The prices have really come down, it's a commodity market now instead of specialty.

I'd be using my asus right now, but I moved into a larger space and need more access points and ubiquiti was my solution.

u/QuantumInteger · 2 pointsr/NoStupidQuestions

Faster is better. Internet is measured in megabits per second. Megabyte is the unit of measurement of data stored on your computer and phone. Megabit is the measurement of data getting transmitted over a connection. There are 8 megabits to a megabyte.

When shopping for ISP, get the fastest speed you can get at the cheapest rate you can find. Depending on your area, you can have a couple to choose from. Generally, it's one DSL and one cable. I'll try to elucidate.

DSL are companies like AT&T. They deliver their internet over old DSL (phone) lines. Generally speaking, their internet speeds are lower. AT&T, for example, cap out at 18-25mbps. This is generally okay but maintaining a 1080p stream on Netflix or having more than one stream while doing other things (downloading stuff to your Xbox, torrenting, etc) would all be bottlenecked. DSL companies use modems that connect to a phone jack. DSL companies also generally have worse performances (based on my experience).

Cable are companies like Time Warner Cable and Comcast. They used to do cables only but now have expanded to internet. They generally deliver faster speeds of 30-300mbps depending on the market. These higher speeds are better for your needs. While you may only have Netflix in mind, be aware that a lot of things you own require internet. The apps on your phone auto-update and can be quite large in size. If you have a console like an Xbox, digital games can go up to 50 gigabyte, neverminding the software updates. Your computer is constantly connected to the internet and its software updates can be quite big. Maybe you want to FaceTime your mother, a good connection would give you better quality and less issues.

Basically, don't cheap out on the speed. Now since, you're living by yourself you should go for a 100mbps package at minimum if you can get it. A price of $30-60 is reasonable. Apartment or housing shoppings now a days also depending on knowing which ISPs service your area and how fast they are. If you can't get good internet at an apartment, you should probably walk away.

Cable companies will try to rent you a modem or a modem/router combo which will add a monthly fee to your monthly bill. Don't do it. Buy something like this. If they give you a modem for free with no fees, take it. DSL companies generally force you to buy their modems upfront. In that regards, you have no choice.

Some modems provided come with wifi capability. Don't use it. Buy your own router that can provide better wifi. Something like this is good. Notice that it says gigabit and AC. Gigabit means that the ethernet port on the back is capable of 1000mbps speed. If you're thinking of buying internet speed faster than 100mbps, make sure you go for the gigabit router otherwise you're bottlenecking your speed. The AC router will guarantee better coverage, range, and performance on wifi as well as giving you speeds above 100mbps (again, not bottlenecking anything).

u/Zoxc32 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

TP-Link Archer C9 isn't a bad option either, at least they bothered to put a heatsink on it.

ASUS RT-ACRH13 / RT-AC58U is also a decent option on sale. It also has a heatsink ;)
https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Dual-Band-Super-Fast-Gigabit-RT-ACRH13/dp/B01LXL1AR8

u/Korzag · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

You don't need anything particularly fancy. I'd suggest getting a router with a 5GHz band (most of them are dual band these days), and use that over the 2.4GHz band (shorter range, but they're faster and the 5GHz spectrum tends to be less polluted since a ton of devices use the 2.4GHz band).

Not sure how fast your internet will be, but I'd suggest getting a router that supports gigabit on the ethernet ports (many cheaper routers will use "fast" which only goes up to 100Mbps instead of 1000Mbps).

​

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Dual-Band-Super-Fast-Gigabit-RT-ACRH13/dp/B01LXL1AR8/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=router&qid=1571250641&sr=8-10

This one in the link seems pretty good for the price. A bit overkill, but it'll be plenty fast for your wireless devices.

u/Blackhalo · 2 pointsr/Hoocoodanode

Get a desktop connected to the wireless network, put a couple of 4-8 TB drives in a RAID-0, enable file sharing, share a folder (securely)... Your own local "cloud thing."

No more need for a rotational drive on your laptop, even for very large files. Heck, set up PXE boot and no need for a drive at all... But that is probably a tad outside of your skill-set. No offense...

Wireless AC...

u/llamacek · 2 pointsr/OSVR

Really nice find! I'm assuming your computer is already bluetooth compatible?

If not, at least for me and others on the PSMoveService Google group, (Great place to ask questions and get help with troubleshooting) you have to have a bluetooth adapter to get the PSMove controllers to pair to your computer.

(I suggest this bluetooth adapter which is used by myself and others for the PSMove controllers)

(Don't forget that first time setup requires a micro USB cable for first time paring)

If so, just be aware that the Playstation Eye takes up a lot of USB bandwidth and you have to plan out where you plug in your devices very carefully for them to all track at the full 60fps.

I'd suggest downloading something like USBTreeView before starting as this will allow you to check your USB root hubs when plugging in your cameras and possibly bluetooth adapter.

Some things to keep in mind when setting this up are:

Try to isolate your cameras away from other high bandwidth devices on the same USB root hub, considering we're using an HMD with an IR camera that also takes up a lot of bandwidth so remember that too.

(This is what my USBTreeView looks like, make sure that your cameras are on USBs with the little H next to them meaning their high-speed.

("USB Composite Device - Camera" is the IR camera)

("ASUS USB-BT400" Is the bluetooth adapter)

"USB Composite Device - Audio, Camera" Is the Playstation Eye)

Most of the time the most cameras you'll be able to get away with are 2 cameras on one motherboard and the front panel USB connections included, unless you buy a PCI/PCI-E USB expansion card for more USBs and root hubs.

(PSMoveService reccomends the Inateck PCI-E to USB 3.0 5-Port

Most likely the controllers you bought were part of the older batches which were manufactured around 5-6 years ago when they first came out, so be sure to check the batteries and you can buy replacements here. (Although you have to open the controller up to access them)

Some of the newer controllers which were released with PSVR have their magnetometers disabled which are used for orientation in PSMoveService so be weary of that if their from the latest batch.

In conclusion, just follow videos like these (This and this) (You can just follow the PSMoveService portion of it) and for troubleshooting either resort to the comments of those videos, the offical Github documentation, post back here and I can try to help, or post in the Google group for help.

Aside from everything else good luck on setting it up and please excuse any grammatical errors you see in this post, it's over 3160 letters long.

u/NadoNate · 2 pointsr/SteamController

I've used an Asus BT-400 adapter to connect my DS4's. It's been solid for years, & only $12!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DJ83070/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iir4Bb1ERVRPK

u/Tommythecat42 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I have this one, https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Receiver-Keyboards-Controllers-USB-BT400/dp/B00DJ83070. I've had 2 ds4 controllers connected at once, and I'm pretty sure 4 would work.

u/b4ux1t3 · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

A good choice for controllers would be either some USB Super Nintendo controllers (they have more than enough buttons for most pre-N64 systems) or a Wiimote, which your friend might already have. There are a few good tutorials out there for getting Wiimotes to work over bluetooth, and I think this is the USB SNES controller my buddy got. (Alternatively, he could build his own)

u/iTriggz · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

This one, and the controller(s) are probably fine, just the adapter has short range? Or do all bluetooth devices have low range?

u/Storm3ye · 2 pointsr/ffxiv

Have you tried any third party bluetooth receivers for wireless connection with DS4?

ASUS USB-BT400 USB Adapter

Its probably the best one to be used with DS4 with PC. It allows you to have 1ms connection between DS4 and PC (so essentially same as high polling rate wired connection).

u/computix · 2 pointsr/techsupport

So, does a BT icon appear? Transmitter/receiver devices I've seen are for connecting analog audio devices through BT. If you want to connect a BT device to a (desktop) PC you should add a USB BT adapter. Like this for example, but many other similar devices exist.

u/murphs33 · 2 pointsr/pcgaming

I have an an ASUS Bluetooth adapter similar to this one (I think it's the same one). And nope, no lag.

u/Santro12 · 2 pointsr/Skullcandy

Thanks for answering!
I asked skullcandy support through email about that and this is the answer. So as I saw before there is no any drivers from their website and it is entirely about drivers for the bluetooth adapter and here is a problem. I bought one on friday but it didn't work, and I couldn't find any drivers for that adapter either besides the ones that downloaded after plugging. About those 3 drivers that they suggested. Broadcom doesn't seem to work anymore as on their site it says that you can't download any software. Toshiba seems like it's for laptops because I couldn't get through the installation and Qualcomm looks dead.


So I feel like I need a right bluetooth adapter with right drivers for them to work, if someone has them and use them on PC with adapter, I would love to hear how they got them to work and which adapter they have and if they downloaded any drivers specifically for it or not. Thinking about buying that ASUS one but would love to hear any suggesting from the users first.

u/mistrzuszabli · 2 pointsr/WindowsMR

> If your laptop has an internal bluetooth, we also recommend you to disable it and only use an external dongle. My personal setup also has a wireless keyboard/mouse with a separate receiver, and the two


I bought USB-BT400 and disabled internal bluetooth. Controllers work great now! Thanks! I also connected it as far as possible from my thunderbolt.


I'm glad I've asked around as I thought it's just how motion tracking works with headset driven tracking.

u/blackonred · 2 pointsr/RocketLeague

No need to worry about asking questions here. That's what this sub is for. Judging from your post, I believe you already know everything you need. As you said, turning on 144hz in the display properties is the one big thing you shouldn't miss. Make sure you don't limit your fps in the ingame graphics settings and check if you can get 144 fps ingame. Steam has a built in fps counter you can use for that. Your hardware should handle the game just fine, so I woulnd't worry about finetuning settings, unless there is a problem.

 

You can still use your PS4 controller on Pc if you didn't know. I believe you don't even need any extra software to run it in steam, though if you do run into some problems I would recomend getting DS4Windows. This software combined with a bluetooth dongle like this one even allows you to use it without any wire connection via bluetooth, though you might get some input lag.

 


Getting a 144hz monitor was one of the best purchases I did in the past years, so I'm sure you will be happy with yours, too.

u/omniscient_zero · 2 pointsr/WindowsMR

While I have seen people with tracking issues with internal BT adapters I haven't come across this issue yet. Have you tried uninstalling the drivers and letting WinUpdate reinstall them? If yes, have you tried the ones from Asus? If yes to that too, a slightly more retarded question. Are you holding down the little gray button inside the battery compartment until the lights on the ring start blinking? If yes, have you tried pairing from the Windows "Add Device" section in settings?

Edit: This is the BT adapter I use with the Odyssey and it works fine: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DJ83070/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/alexnader · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I held off, I'm cheap like that, but regret not getting this for the past 6 months.

It seriously works as good as you could imagine, direct pairing, no weirdness, connects instantly. I even had some games cause issues with me connecting it by cable. Since switching to bluetooth, not a single fucking issue and some games even finally have all the buttons mapped out correctly.

Seriously get it !

Plus on some games I still use both: In Far Cry 4 I'll walk around a drive with the controller, then use to the mouse to aim, then go straight back, no disconnecting anything, they are both usable in the same breath.

u/signofthenine · 2 pointsr/PS4

I used this one (and it's included software) on win7, and it works great. I'd say I'm 7-10 feet away?

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DJ83070

u/NeedaTryHarder · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I bought an Asus PCIE for $95~. It was great, but something popped in there and now it's making an annoying noise. I couldn't ignore or tune out the noise so I decided to buy a cheap USB one. I honestly don't see a difference..

u/6x9equals42 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If it's a desktop get a pci or pci-e adapter like this or this. The more expensive ones will have better range/speed

u/ColdestCore · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Didn't use it long before I sold it, but I never had issues with the ASUS PCE‑AC68. It's AC1900 and about CDN$ 118 for a new one.

LINK

Edit: Added Amazon CA link. Canadian dollar pricing

u/wickeddimension · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Yes I do (Althought I always recommend Cable over Wifi ,but I'll just assume that isn't a possiblity for you :P )

The Archer T series are good. The 3 models come up as top, T6E , T8E , T9E. Some do 802.11AC wifi others don't. Depends on your router and home network if you would have any use for that.

Those are all PCI Cards you place inside your PC. The Asus PCE-AC68 also deserves a mention if we are talking about High performance Wireless cards. Althought its expensive.

You can also go the USB route, you'll end up with dongles like this Netgear AC1200 which is a excellent USB options, but once again pricey (See the trend, dont worry we are getting there)

A more affordable PCI Options would be this TP-LINK WDN4800 N900 or a USB dongle like this TP-Link WDN4200 N900

And if you are really low on funds you could go for something like the Asus USB-N13 for 18$ or TP-Link N300 which is only 11$.

Personally I'd recommend you grab the TP N900, either the PCI or USB variant would do fine , PCI is faster, USB is probably a bit more versatile as you can use it with any PC/Laptop. N900 gets great reviews all around and it supports 802.11N , should be plenty fast for gaming. One issue the N900 seems to have is Digital signage with W10 ,so you need a different driver than the official one to get by this issue and use 5ghz. Not sure if thats relevant for you.

Either way ,you see the trend, Asus and TP-link are really my go2brands for anything networking.

I realize I still gave you a ton of choices, might not be the most helpful, but atleast you'll have some direction to look.

u/idunowat23 · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

$2400 4K Gaming PC


Max settings at 4K resolution will bring any existing hardware to its knees, but we can come very close to your desired 120fps. You should expect to get better framerates substantially higher than the benchmarks below because the video card in this build is clocked 13.6% higher than the reference model.

The key to achieving the highest framerates at 1440p and 4K is simply to include the strongest video card possible. This means the RTX 2080Ti with the highest boost clock frequency we can afford.

  • Destiny 2 Ultra Settings:
  • 1440p: 198fps
  • 4K: 99fps
  • Full benchmarks
  • Micro Center Parts:
  • CPU, Motherboard

    PCPartPicker Part List

    Type|Item|Price
    :----|:----|:----
    CPU | Intel Core i7-9700K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor | $299.99
    CPU Cooler | be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 50.5 CFM CPU Cooler | $90.00
    Motherboard | Gigabyte Z390 GAMING X ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $119.99
    Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $69.99 @ Newegg
    Storage | Sabrent Rocket 2 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | $249.98 @ Amazon
    Video Card | MSI GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11 GB GAMING X TRIO Video Card | $1199.89 @ Amazon
    Case | NZXT H700 ATX Mid Tower Case | $109.98 @ Amazon
    Power Supply | Corsair TXM Gold 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply | $89.99 @ Newegg
    Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit | $137.90 @ OutletPC
    Wireless Network Adapter | Rosewill RNX-AC1900PCE PCIe x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | $59.99 @ Newegg
    | Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
    | Total (before mail-in rebates) | $2457.70
    | Mail-in rebates | -$30.00
    | Total | $2427.70
    | Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-09-25 21:49 EDT-0400 |

    Explanation of Part Choices:


  • Cpu: This is the second strongest gaming cpu available. You could technically get away with the 6-core Ryzen 5 3600 or the i5-9600K, but with a budget this large it makes sense to spend a bit extra to get an 8-core cpu to future-proof the build against the possibility that future games begin using more than 6 cores. I don't recommend the more expensive 9900K because we don't need hyper threading and the performance difference at 1440p and 4K resolutions will be negligible, and we are better off spending that money on a stronger video card.
  • Cpu Cooler: This is one of the top two air coolers available and actually delivers stronger cooling performance than most high-end AIO water coolers. It will enable you to heavily overclock the 9700K if you choose. It is currently out of stock, but will be in stock on October 29th.
  • Motherboard: One of the cheapest motherboards with VRMs strong enough to support overclocking the 9700K. See the Intel VRMs tier list.
  • Memory: 3000mhz is the fastest speed before intel cpus suffer heavy diminishing returns. 15CAS latency instead of 16 (lower latency results in faster cpu performance). 16GB is more than enough memory unless you will be using this PC for professional video editing or CAD work.
  • SSD: Cheapest 2TB TLC NVMe SSD with a dram cache and a 5 year warranty (make sure you register to get the warranty). NVMe SSDs are ~3 times faster than traditional SATA SSDs. TLC SSDs are much faster than the cheaper QLC SSDs in sustained reads/writes and do not slow down as much as they fill up. I do not recommend an HDD unless you plan to store large amounts of video files. It's hard to go back to loading games from an HDD after you've experienced SSD loading speeds.
  • Video Card: The RTX 2080Ti is the strongest gaming video card available. EVGA is considered the most reliable brand with the best customer service. I selected a high-end model (as determined by its boost clock speed). It's boost clock speed is 1755mhz, which is 13.6% faster than the basic models which are clocked at 1545mhz. There are 2080Ti's with higher clock speeds than this, but they either have poor ratings or are several hundred dollars extra, which is just a very poor value.
  • Case: This is the high-end version of the most popular case (the H500). We want the H700 because this build has very power-hungry hardware (more power equals more heat) and the H700 has significantly better airflow thanks to its larger vents and four case fans. I selected the black and white model just because it was slightly cheaper than the all black model.
  • Power Supply: 7 year warranty. 750W is more than enough for this 449W system, which leaves plenty of room for overclocking and future upgrades. Modular for easier cable management. 80+ gold efficiency.
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro as requested. However, Windows 10 Home would be fine as long as this PC will not be part of a large network of computers (like in a business office) and as long as you do not care about the remote access feature that Pro has.
  • Wifi: It is actually much cheaper to get a separate wifi adapter than to get a motherboard with built-in wifi in most cases, particularly since you need gigabit connection speeds. This model is the cheapest gigabit wifi adapter with a large sample size of good reviews. Rated for 1300Mbps on the 5.0 GHz band and 600Mbps on the 2.4hz band. You can spend a bit more on the ASUS AC1900 if you want an extension cable so that the antennas can be in a more advantageous spot. This would only be necessary if the PC will be far from the router or or if the PC will be stuck under a metal desk or something else that would significantly block wifi signals.
u/cozzy891 · 2 pointsr/googlefiber

This is the wifi adapter I got for my desktop when I moved into my apartment with Fiber. Link

It does a pretty good job considering. I live in a 1400sqft apartment and the fiber box is in my dining room and my desktop is in the office is on the other side of the apartment. I get like 300-400 down usually.
I've also found success in splitting off the 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz. The 5Ghz band is a lot weaker but I still like to connect to it because I get so much faster speeds.

u/kindanerdysportsguy · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I use the ASUS PCE-AC68 AC1900, after experimenting with other cards and usb wifi adapters this is easily the most stable I have used.

Here is an amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F42V83C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VXQ7CbW5DHTWC

u/reallnigga · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

It has its good days and bad days. Im just gonna grab something similar to this. https://www.amazon.ca/ASUS-Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1900-Adapter-PCE-AC68/dp/B00F42V83C .

u/H8teradio · 2 pointsr/buildapc

USB wifi adapters are notoriously bad, I'd go for the card. I can't say anything about the one you linked but, I have this one and it works awesome (pc upstairs, router downstairs)


https://www.amazon.ca/ASUS-Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1900-Adapter-PCE-AC68/dp/B00F42V83C/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1493999913&sr=1-4&keywords=asus+wifi+adapter

u/gregz83 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Just a personal opinion, always connect desktops to routers via Network (Cat6) cable when possible, that said:

Basic troubleshooting steps;

  1. Download a new driver
  2. Uninstall the driver, Reboot
  3. Reinstall the new downloaded driver
  4. Reboot the router
  5. Check position/placement of your antenna

    =====Still not working=====

u/Jerbils · 2 pointsr/google
u/arahman81 · 2 pointsr/canada

Or look at getting powerline adapters (or With Wifi)

u/RedPatriots · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

So I'm really new at all of this so I'm having a bit of a hard time following. Would this work (the reason I'm asking about this specific one is because I saw someone else recommend it in a similar thread)? Or could you recommend a product that would?

u/B_B_Rodriguez2716057 · 2 pointsr/PS4

If you're a long ways away from your router, I'd recommend picking up this. It's the only way I can download or play online.

u/CPBabsSeed · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

For myself, I just connect the powerline adapter to a switch in my room which is then connected to all my devices, including a secondary wireless router I just use for phones mainly. My gear is a little dated, though, and nowadays you can get all that rolled into one device for a good price. For example this low end model or this high end model both give you a single port adapter to plug into your router, as well as a destination adapter with multiple ethernet ports and its own integrated wireless access point.

u/Intrikate · 2 pointsr/battlestations

Lol, no children yet. Not for awhile

Yeah its a powerline line. This one specifically.

Its pretty great cause I can "hardwire" my ps4 to it in my living room because it has a terrible wifi built in. It also doubles as a wi-fi signal boost. Helps reach the back area of the house. Speed isn't terrible, I have 100mbps internet speed for the front room. It hits around 60mbps through the powerline. Sometimes you need to re-pair them. Otherwise has been working great for a few years now.

u/GamerMan3D · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WDN4800-Wireless-Express-Low-profile/dp/B007GMPZ0A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418006490&sr=8-1&keywords=Wireless+card This is a pretty good wifi card. That card is pretty fast. Source: In second pc. Or instead of a wifi card you could get a powerline adapter if your house isn't too old. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSQAIQU/ref=s9_al_bw_g147_i5 I prefer powerline over wifi card since the its basically a wired connection except it uses yours houses electrical wiring to work.

u/darkharibo · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I've had these for over a year now and I'm completely satisfied: https://www.amazon.com/Extender-Powerline-Starter-300Mbps-Wireless/dp/B00HSQAIQU Easy setup, works like a charm, unless you have an extremely old electrical instalation in your house - then these might not work at all.

u/mpstein · 2 pointsr/wireless

Most market Wireless APs / Router combos should be able to support it. These things are pretty solid for expanding range.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WPA4220KIT-ADVANCED-Universal-Powerline/dp/B00HSQAIQU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420940910&sr=8-1&keywords=powerline+wireless

u/pedad · 2 pointsr/techsupport
u/StickySnacks · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I bought this powerline extender recently and it's been awesome.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WPA4220KIT-ADVANCED-Powerline-Extender/dp/B00HSQAIQU/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1450724363&sr=1-3&refinements=p_89%3ATP-LINK

Just plug one into an outlet near the router, and the wireless extender one anywhere else in the house and push the buttons to sync. Couldn't be easier and the speeds are impressive.

u/TsuDoughNym · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Use the router for the powerline -- other users have mentioned the issue with double NAT, but keep in mind your powerline adapter, depending on how much you pay, will be much more limited in bandwidth than the gigabit ports on most modern routers.

If your concern is to extend your wireless network, I highly recommend the TP-Link AV500 WiFi Powerline Kit. I purchased one myself a few months ago and have it set up in my guest bedroom/office, with about 6 walls between me and my AC66U router. Speeds are fantastic, both wired and wireless. I have my laptop connected wirelessly, with my Pi and home server running wired (the adapter has 2 Ethernet ports), so it works out great and I get great N coverage on this side of my apartment now.

In the future, you can just purchase more modules to extend the network in case you have a house or a larger dwelling.

Hope this helps!

u/Xuzio · 2 pointsr/techsupport

You can use a mesh network as suggested, or simply just get another cheap router and run a network cable from the living room to the bedroom router. There are also cheap powerline wifi extenders that will use your mains power to extend the connection: Here is an example:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AV500-Powerline-extender-TL-WPA4220/dp/B00HSQAIQU/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1527130317&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=powerline+wifi+extender&psc=1

u/tsdguy · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Nope. Get a Powerline Wireless network adapter with an Ethernet port.

I just put a TP-LINK TL-WPA4220KIT ADVANCED 300Mbps Universal Wi-Fi Range Extender, Repeater, AV500 Powerline Edition, Wi-Fi Clone Button, 2 LAN Ports into his apartment and I was very pleased.

Created an extended wireless network automatically and the remote unit includes 2 Ethernet ports for your wired TV.

Powerline sends network data over AC wiring at speeds higher than typical wireless network extenders and it's easier to set up.

u/MLGw2 · 2 pointsr/Ice_Poseidon

The above image shows the range with the routers and wired lines in the house, and people using phones/ipads n shit.

Wifi extender for dummies: This guy explains it.

This is the product he uses: Under $50.

10 routers is not the answer.

u/dokool · 2 pointsr/japanlife

What are the best solutions for getting a wifi signal through/around concrete from one side of the apartment to the other?

A search in English brought up powerline kits like this, but a Japanese search brought up more expensive solutions - 30k yen repeater sets and the like.

Or is it as simple as upgrading our (already pretty good) router?

u/Shiztastic · 2 pointsr/PleX

My guess is the bridge isn't smart enough to keep the traffic local. It's sending the stream over the bridge back to the primary router and then back out to the Roku via the bridge as well. You might try connecting the Roku to the primary router and see how it works.

I tried something similar to this and it was awful using a wireless bridge. Then I replaced that with a power line unit from TP Link where the remote unit also acted as an additional wireless access point and it works great now.

u/acobildo · 2 pointsr/Chromecast

I have an older HooToo from Amazon. Think I paid about $25 at the time. Works great and I'd recommend the brand again.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HZWOQZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wta2AbX2REGC7

u/AfterShock · 2 pointsr/PleX

Can confirm, While the rumor is future OS updates on Roku will allow you to connect around splash pages at hotels etc, I too always bring a travel sized router with me. I went with the HooToo travel router as it was on sale for $15 in December.

u/3r0z · 2 pointsr/kodi

Technically it should work but the good folks over at r/datahoarder told me it's not ideal. I had trouble doing it that way with a Netgear Nighthawk as well. Eventually I hooked my drive up to an old laptop and just leave that running. But if you don't have an extra laptop or you're looking for a cheaper solution, you can try something like this. It's a cool little device that has a lot of functions, one being SMB.

u/amongmany · 2 pointsr/photography
u/689430944 · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

"travel routers" can offer you the routing functionality you are seeking. for the most part they run from 5v

here's one with 2.4/5GHz wifi access with private wifi lan subnetting - $45

and here's one with basic 2.4GHz wifi access with private wifi lan subnetting - $22

u/cdlenfert · 2 pointsr/fireTV

For on the go, a Fire TV Stick (gen 2) with an OTG cable is the way to go, unless you need 4K. If you have non-Fat32 drives that hold your media that you don't want to reformat, I'd suggest some sort of file sharing device to make them available over a network. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/HooToo-Wireless-Performance-TripMate-Hotspot/dp/B00HZWOQZ6. I'm using a super cheap PogoPlug that I've enabled SMB sharing on, and it feeds 1080p to my FireTVs flawlessly.

u/BumOnABeach · 2 pointsr/berlin

More often than not any given apartment in downtown Berlin will be in range of at least one of the several commercial wlan networks (Vodafone, T-Online, Hotsplots). For example in my last apartment in Berlin Mitte I could connect to five of them (often they are actually separate wlans running on private routers, so technically it is actually your neighbors you are connecting to).

It usually costs around 30€/month (I think) with unlimited traffic and usually very decent bandwidth for one (!) device. But with a bit of tech ingenuity (or even better and dead easy: an inexpensive travel router like for example this) you can make it work for all your gadgets. The travel router connects to the commercial wlan, then it opens its own private wlan for your devices. Bought mine a couple of years ago, now it is among the first things I pack, wouldn't want to travel without one. First you really need to check for the strength of the signal though, anything less than 50% will be a bit of a pain.

u/mofang · 2 pointsr/travel

http://www.amazon.com/HooToo-TripMate-Wireless-Pocket-Travel/dp/B00HZWOQZ6 is an example of one model. They also make versions that plug into the wall and that have a built in battery - look at the alternate version links on the Amazon page to navigate to them.

The idea of an integrated travel plug adapter is nice, but the Kikkerland one I linked in a different fork of the thread is smaller to pack and I prefer having the two separate - usually I want to plug in devices near the bed, but the Ethernet port is often near a desk instead.

u/rcashel · 2 pointsr/Chromecast

Thanks for the clarification, so it looks like I'll be picking up a small travel router with the CC then. I'm looking for something tiny and cheap (less than $20 ideally) and works well with the CC. Any recommendations? I'm torn between these two:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HZWOQZ6

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007PTCFFW

u/praetor- · 2 pointsr/CarAV

Something like this should work. I'm skeptical of the DLNA claims but it appears that HooToo provides an app for iOS and Android.

u/Syranth · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Call the front desk and ask for their technical support number. If they have one call it and ask them to whitelist your Switch on the network. They will need your MAC address.

​

Another way to solve for this if you travel a lot is get a Hootoo Wireless Router. I bought one last year when I was traveling up to a week per month and it was fabulous.

u/tal_ormanda · 2 pointsr/techsupport

I own this travel router and it's pretty good once you get it set up http://www.amazon.com/HooToo-TripMate-Wireless-Pocket-Travel/dp/B00HZWOQZ6

u/reg036 · 2 pointsr/fireTV

Well the Stick does not have a USB input for drives so that rules that out period.

The Box does have a USB input but it does only fat32 (NO NTFS) so it is a max of 2 TB drive and files up to 4GB,that will rule out 720p+ movies.

Without setting your hard drive up as a network share somehow then I would not recommend the AFTV. Someone in another thread suggested this as a plain media player for attached storage:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008NO9RRM?refRID=0JF1G7K7R0QJ6AMWASTB&ref_=pd_ybh_a_16

I switched from WDTVs and have both a stick and box, without a good router the stick will be a little problematic sometimes, I much prefer the hard wired box and works great using Kodi with my NAS. I also will pop some things on a microSD card to play real quick.

Also in another thread, someone recommended this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HZWOQZ6?refRID=0JF1G7K7R0QJ6AMWASTB&ref_=pd_ybh_a_17

To turn your hard drive into a network share wirelessly.

HTH

u/rextraverse · 2 pointsr/Nexus6P

I don't believe so, if only because to do what you want it to would require two separate sets of Wi-Fi antennas. It's also why most laptops also can't do this with a hotel Wi-Fi but can become a hotspot if the hotel offers an ethernet connection

This won't help you right now, but as someone who travels a lot for work (~2 weeks/month for 10 months out of the year), I've been using the HooToo TripMate Nano for the past year and it's been very reliable. The device will allow you to connect to a hotel's Wi-Fi and create your own personal Wi-Fi network, works fine with browser-based hotel logins, and has a USB port to attach a network drive to share files. It's also dirt cheap, for what it does.

u/Anydudewilltellyou · 2 pointsr/amazonecho

If you are willing to leave the amplifier on and set to auxiliary, then you can cast to this device:

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Bluetooth-Audio-Adapter-Streaming/dp/B00IQBSW28

u/packtloss · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Why wouldn't you use this or this or this?

Seems like an expensive way with a lot of points of failure for simply BT->Aux? If it's just for the exercise of making it work, fair enough.

u/Omnilatent · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Hey guys and gals,

I'm looking for a pair of speakers (2.0 or 2.1 configuration) for watching movies, listening to music and gaming. I'm planning on using them with my laptop and my phone via bluetooth with this adapter.

  • Budget I wanted to spend less than 150€ if possible. Willing to spend up to 200€ for a good reason

  • What am I looking for? I am searching for a pretty flexible configuration that can be put in one side of the room and used in the whole room via bluetooth. I am specifically looking for speakers with a balanced sound as most speakers I could listen to in the electronic store (logitech and the sorts) are horrible bassy and lack any mids and highs

  • How do I want to use it? The speakers will be placed onto my desk. I use my laptop on the same desk or in my bed and want to be able to play music or watch movies with the speakers from anywhere in my room (so near and mid-field, I guess?)

  • What gears do I already own? Except for my headphones, none.

  • What material will I be using it for? Mainly for movies/videos (speakers of my laptop are way too weak and that really pisses me off), music and gaming (I'd say around 50% videos, 25% music and 25% gaming). Preferred taste of music: rockish/metalish stuff and hip hop

    And I'm definitely willing to buy used. If it's not hard, I would also be willing to build a speaker from scratch and use an bought amp with it (if that's a good idea? I am confident enough for building a speaker myself but I lack the knowledge of building an own amp)

    Thank you very much!

u/THUGnificent617 · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Hi there,
I've had two massive Rokit8 speakers for a couple years now and, until now, i've been content with using RCA to quarter or eighth inch adapters as my only audio option. I'm trying to upgrade my setup to allow for 3 things:
1 Wireless input or the ability to connect to a wireless input: I'm not tied to bluetooth, but it's cheap and it has good enough quality for me to use when i'm lazy/sitting on my bed.
2 Aux (or whatever) inputs: i want to be able to hook up my computer and other devices for optimal sound quality when i'm less lazy and don't want to use bluetooth. I also want to be able to hook up one line from my music gear. It would be best if i could keep both a computer and my gear plugged in at the same time so i could easily switch back and forth without unplugging things.
My current idea involves connecting something like this to an audio switcher, but switchers seem quite expensive for how simple they appear to be.
Any ideas reddit?
Thanks!

u/Kingelmobap · 2 pointsr/Android

I have the Chromecast Audio. If you don't feel like waiting for an update you could get a bluetooth audio adapter that should work for any jack device. https://www.amazon.ca/Logitech-980-000910-Bluetooth-Audio-Adapter/dp/B00IQBSW28/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=bluetooth+audio+adapter&qid=1567001989&s=gateway&sr=8-4

u/cavahoos · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I'm also trying to do something a bit unorthodox. I want some flexibility with my setup so in addition to sometimes plugging in the speakers to my laptop via an audio interface, I'm also looking to buy this to add bluetooth functionality to the setup. This seems simple enough (plug the bluetooth adapter into the interface via RCA inputs rather than a wire connecting to the laptop), but I'm unsure about all the other wiring involved

u/jar996 · 2 pointsr/sonos

When I am outside I use a Bluetooth dongle that outputs to RCA going into my Connect AMP. I used it mostly to watch the Penguins playoff run outside on a projector last year and didn’t notice a delay as others have posted about.

Edit to add link: Logitech Bluetooth Audio Adapter for Bluetooth Streaming https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IQBSW28/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_oTcWAbNXW64A8

u/Gingerosa · 2 pointsr/technology

Logitech Bluetooth Audio Adapter on Amazon. $21 and I use it multiple times a week

Edit: Wasn’t sure if links were against the rules. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IQBSW28/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-1MxCb6GSRW50

u/jnux · 2 pointsr/Comcast

For my modem I use SB6183 (yes, I buy refurb) for $70, and have had great luck in general with the surfboard / arris line. This one is good for up to ~600Mbps (which is far faster than what Comcast sells me now).

For routers I go with Asus; huge user base and they're super solid. You can get this one for $60 ; it goes faster than most every speed tier that comcast currently offers in any market, so you can be sure it won't be the bottleneck on your network.

If you go with that set it'll take you a little more than a year to break even, but at that point you have it paid off and you have the peace of mind that you're in control of your own network.

Good luck!

u/Kiliwas · 2 pointsr/mexico
u/rndwombat · 2 pointsr/techsupport

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXL1AR8

Seriously its so cheap to get a decent router why not? U use steam in home streaming / rdp a lot and this router rocks.

u/lumabean · 2 pointsr/PleX

I'd recommend either getting a different router and just using the Xfinity combo as just a modem.

Network management was a pita with the xfinity crap and I had to restart the device multiple times to get my port configurations to stick.

Bought a Asus RT-ACRH13 and have no issues with port forwarding and network management.

u/yp983 · 2 pointsr/iRacing

TP-Link AC1750 Smart WiFi Router... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JD7F7G?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

It's pretty cheap, and well rated. Works perfectly so far.

u/IfTheHouseBurnsDown · 2 pointsr/CoxCommunications

I just got a TP-Link AC1750 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JD7F7G?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share) and it’s the best router I’ve ever owned. I’ve always had NETGEAR but decided to switch it up and I’m glad I did.

I also keep my modem and router separate. I’ve heard combos aren’t as fast.

u/rageaccount373733 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I’m not going to downvote you. But you should get a dual band router since he is in a populated city. Multi hundred dollar routers are not worth it for a single router. It’s not going to be any better than a cheap single router.

Buy this:
NETGEAR Cable Modem CM500 - Compatible with all Cable Providers including Xfinity by Comcast, Spectrum, Cox | For Cable Plans Up to 300 Mbps | DOCSIS 3.0 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XH46MWW/

Return the original one and stop paying the rental fee.

Buy this:
TP-Link AC1750 Smart WiFi Router - Dual Band Gigabit Wireless Internet Router (Archer A7) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JD7F7G/

If house is big, you have poor WiFi in part of your house, buy this instead of TPLink router:
Google WiFi system, 3-Pack - Router replacement for whole home coverage (NLS-1304-25) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MAW2294/

u/Yo_2T · 2 pointsr/Fios

Get a new router. That router can't handle Gigabit speeds.

Something like this would do.

u/ImperatorPC · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

What are the walls made of? It's not a large house so unless your walls are made of concrete a single all in one router/AP/switch should be sufficient. Do not get an all in one that is also your modem. The Archer 7 is generally regarded as a really good router for home use. https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1750-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B079JD7F7G

u/Lagotta · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

>There are Ethernet ports in my room so I am looking for a cheap router that I can connect my PC to for a more stable connection for gaming

In a dorm room, HARD WIRE your PC for the best connectivity.

Cables from monoprice (or amazon) are cheap.

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=13404

>as well as better wifi connectivity.

Get one of these

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1750-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B079JD7F7G

Set it in AP mode, and do this:

Wall port in room >> ethernet cable to TP Link in AP mode

>> cable to PC

>> set up 5ghz SSID, pick a good channel, and set your router to stay on that channel

>> probably ignore the 2.4 ghz band in a dorm, it's going to be saturated, and the 5ghz will cover your room easily.

u/gwrabbit · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Your ISP should provide you a modem that will be able to use the fiber and handle those speeds. If your apartment is practically one room, you can buy something like this --> https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1750-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B079JD7F7G/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=wireless+router&qid=1569598098&s=gateway&sr=8-3

TP Links are very good consumer grade products.

If you like the Google home mesh network, then by all means, go for it. Either way you go, you'll be taken care of.

u/prosperouslife · 2 pointsr/linux4noobs
  1. First and simplest option is to call your ISP for the log in information of your router so you can manage the router yourself. You will want to have this information handy anyway for future use.
  2. Second option would be to install a wifi router you purchase, request a modem only from your ISP and then you can limit IP's or mac addresses, set times of day that certain devices can connect etc. Lots of options. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1750-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B079JD7F7G/
  3. Third choice: Run your current connection through a switch. Connected an access point to that switch. create a new wifi network and manage it as you see fit.
  4. Last option: If you enjoy learning networking and want a highly customizable setup I would suggest getting an older pc, a second network card, a switch and an access point. Then installing pfsense on the pc and then you'd have a highly customizable, secure, BSD based network. This is probably not something you're ready for at the moment but maybe something to consider down the line.

    pfSense

    https://www.pfsense.org/download/

    Wifi access point

    https://www.tp-link.com/us/business-networking/ceiling-mount-access-point/eap245/

    Good switch

    https://www.tp-link.com/us/home-networking/5-port-switch/tl-sg105/
u/rallymax · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I think it's definitely time to upgrade your WRT54GL as it's a 802.11g router capable of 54Mbps at most. That's less than your connection with Xfinity, meaning you're not actually utilizing all of the broadband you're paying for (unless you have hardwired ethernet in the house too).

AC1750 should be plenty for streaming with fire stick. The TP-Link AC1750 is a decent product for < $100.

u/ten_dollar_banana · 2 pointsr/Minneapolis

Hi Travis, thanks for your quick response. I'm running a brand new TP-Link AC1750.

I believe I am using the 2.4ghz band. I'll try switching to the 5ghz band and see if that helps.

u/MahaloAmigo · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I wouldn't go with D-Link either, get something from Asus, netgear, or TP-link like This. And definitely get your own modem to go with it. You are almost certainly paying a modem rental fee that is hidden away somewhere in your monthly bill.

u/ohwooord · 2 pointsr/Fios

I bought this one amazon

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1750-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B079JD7F7G

I have 200/200 and I'm getting 300/300 oddly enough when I test so it should work out for you.

u/ResidentStevil28 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I'm pretty much in the same boat as you (except I have 2 hardwired devices as well) and just purchased the TP-Link AC1750, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079JD7F7G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . The other choice I was looking at was the low end Nighthawk, https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-R6700-Nighthawk-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00R2AZLD2 .

The nighthawk has a few more options control wise in its software and a bit beefier hardware but for simple router usage the TP-Link should be fine, several of my coworkers recommended this one, THO, one of them said when the Dual Band is on that his phone would drop the wifi until he left just the 5ghz band on, but my other coworkers didn't notice this issues.

u/cougar831 · 2 pointsr/PS4

I use this and runs great

TP-Link AC1750 Smart WiFi Router - Dual Band Gigabit Wireless Internet Routers for Home, Works with Alexa, Parental Control&QoS(Archer A7) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JD7F7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GUCWCbJS2H9XR

u/tossawayintheend · 2 pointsr/burlington

I have this one and it works great.

I get the the advertised speed when wired to my laptop, but not on WiFi because my laptop doesn't have a dual band modem so I'm stuck with the 2.4GHz band.

My phone gets the full speed on the 5GHz WiFi band.

u/DR3AMR2 · 1 pointr/Denver

I used to be on the supplied modem/router. Never again. After switching I get better speeds than what I'm paying for. So I would highly recommend it.

That's a good side note that you provided. If you're barely getting 3-5 Mbps down, having multiple people connected to the network will slow everything down. Also the supplied router sucks at allocating internet to multiple devices.

Since you're only paying for 25 Mbps package. I would recommend this modem - Motorola SB6141

As for the router any of the new routers should be better than the supplied one, but if you want a recommendation then this one would work Asus Router

I have a spare SB6141 laying around. I just need to find it and you can have it if you're interested. Just PM me.

u/xXDanger_ZoneXx · 1 pointr/computers

I looked up your router/modem, I found that this device should be more than enough to push your Vivid 200 Package to your devices. However, the chipset manufacturer (Intel) of this modem/router has confirmed problems with the device, specifically with gaming.

I would check online for a firmware update. If your device is already up-to-date, then you can either wait for an update to come (might be awhile) or you could buy another router/modem.

This is the router I currently use, ASUS RT-ACRH13

It would be more than enough to run at your 200 Mbps package. Be careful of other router manufacturers. I had a Netgear router I really liked until it malfunctioned. Netgear's customer support wanted me to buy a subscription to their service in order to fix it. I was having problem with the ASUS router's port-forwarding and ASUS was really helpful in rectifying the issue without wanting more money.

u/kabanossi · 1 pointr/techsupport

1300 is ok. It's an effortless router setup with the ASUSWRT web-based interface, Super-Fast Wi-Fi - Dual-band 802.11ac Wi-Fi with concurrent speeds up to 867Mbps (5GHz) and 400Mbps (2.4GHz)

https://www.amazon.com/RT-ACRH13-Dual-Band-AC1300-4-port-Gigabit/dp/B01LXL1AR8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1506601833&sr=8-2&keywords=router+1300

u/TheMadMerlin · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

So I'm looking for a new router and modem to upgrade my current one and thought I'd ask for some suggestions.


Currently I've been looking at the ASUS RT-ACRH13 Router and the NETGEAR CM400 modem.


My current internet plan is 100/15 and looking to spend under 130$ and my isp is cox. Thanks for any help guys!

u/111017751833 · 1 pointr/plano

Honestly, Spectrum is the way to go. Use your own modem and router.

I have been using a Zoom Modem DOCSIS 3.0 for the past 3years, with no issues. Along with this ASUS RT-ACRH13 for the past 10 months. I had another, much cheaper router than that, but between these two I paid $55 for the modem and $70 for the wifi router...so basically $0.65/month for the modem, and $7/month for the router = $7.65 as opposed to whatever they will charge for their modem router combination, and when I first used theirs, it wasn't nearing as good. Just make sure you get one that is at least DOCSIS 3.0, which is easiest to view here. I am partial to Motorola, as they have worked great for me, though the Netgear and TP-Link I used before where a while back, and was provided to me, didn't work as well, so I am biased against them, even though a lot of people talk good about them, so I could be wrong about them. A good combination is this Motorola N300 router modem combo both for the same price at Best Buy and Amazon. Which, even if it only last 1 year, it would be the same cost as $5.84/month renting, and then less as it will last more than one year.

Not sure how heavily you will be using the Internet, but I use it to stream all TV, constantly on reddit or whatever with my phone, and even some gaming...most going on at the same time. I like my router, but will be getting myself a new modem soon, which will probably be a Motorola MB7420 or a ASUS CM-16.

You can find what is compatible with Spectrum, and how to activate, if you go HERE and open this PDF file

Edit: formatting with links
Edit2: grammar

u/robb_92 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Should I go with this switch?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002CWPW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GLzdBb1N7174Q

I'm using this for my Wi-Fi right now and it works great. I was planning on using it again.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXL1AR8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fQzdBb5Q5680Z

How many access points would I need over 1400 square feet? I wouldn't think it's very many.

u/KarmaBagles · 1 pointr/mexico

Asus Enrutador inalámbrico 3 en 1 (RT-N12).1, 4 Puertos Gigabit LAN, Negro, AC1300

No es tan caro comparado con otros pero a mí me funciona bien tomando en cuenta que es Gigabit y mi conexión es de 200 Mb.

u/amc111 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXL1AR8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm not really sure what your needs are but I just got this router recently and I've been very satisfied with it.

u/Kolamer · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Does anyone know if This router is any good?

u/PenoNation · 1 pointr/MLBStreams

I'm not sure what the 'best'choice is, but this is what I use:

MODEM:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M6WJWQY/

ROUTER:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXL1AR8/


This is my internet speed right now:

http://www.speedtest.net/result/6431172093.png

u/Chris1052 · 1 pointr/techsupport

Buy a better router. How many feet is the room with poor signal? You should have decent speeds up to about 150-200 feet away from a decent router. I wouldn't go as big as a nighthawk, those are completely unnecessary and over hyped. Geared towards gamers but any serious gamer is going to use an Ethernet connection and I don't think the $300 routers perform much better than the $100 routers. I bought this one and it has been great:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXL1AR8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/aliniazi · 1 pointr/GalaxyS8

I use this router and yes, I do have a gigabit connection. I get around 650-700 and 600-650 up on my S8.

I get 940/900 with a USB C to Ethernet adapter.

u/Darkdayzzz123 · 1 pointr/talesfromtechsupport

Ew...better router! This one

u/zephiKK · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

People are saying not to get a 2 in 1 because it is always better for two separate devices. When you use a 2 in 1, there are compromises to be made. Think of it this way, if you're moving--having a 2 in 1 is like having one person juggle multiple tasks at once. If you have two units doing two separate tasks, it will get the job done more efficiently in a shorter amount of time. If you have a 2 in 1 modem/router, chances are.. it will not excel at both tasks.

Secondly, at Best Buy you can price match with items sold and shipped by Amazon (ensure they're not sold by third parties). Since you have room mates, you should discuss it with them and possibly split the cost between everyone? I assume that they're going to be splitting the bills with you? If you find an item that is on Amazon but not sold at Best buy then you can always sign up for Amazon Prime trial.

With the internet speeds that you're going to be having, you don't have to go too crazy with expenses.

SB6183: https://smile.amazon.com/ARRIS-Surfboard-SB6183-RB-Certified-Refurbished/dp/B01ERK1JLM/

Archer A7: https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1750-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B079JD7F7G/

Do note with the SB6183 you won't be able to price match it since you're buying refurb. That same modem being new is ~$79.99, you're saving about half the amount.

Total would be $99.99 + taxes, you can substitute the router for a Netgear or ASUS if you want to spend a bit more.

Doing the math, you said $13 is the modem/router rental fee-- 13*12 = $156... a total savings of $156 - sales tax. Effectively making the cost in total being ~$33-36 for each person in the apartment.

u/Syphor · 1 pointr/techsupport

I'd recommend just getting a router and using it as your internet gateway. I assume from your minimal description that you have a Comcast cable modem plugged into the wall, and from there directly to the PC via ethernet? If that's the case, you should be able to go out and buy almost any basic wireless-capable home router, plug it in between the Comcast modem and the PC, and you'll immediately gain wifi (great for phones, tablets, laptops, etc) as well as a few extra switched ethernet ports. Note that the PS4 also has built in wifi capability, so you can use that if you don't want to immediately run an ethernet cable to the machine. Wifi is not as stable (especially in an area with lots of access points) as the wire though, so keep that in mind. But it'll get you connected.

Router examples:This is a pretty good unit, especially at the current pricing. You do not need one of the super fancy $150+ routers in almost all cases. https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1750-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B079JD7F7G/ (at time of posting, it's on sale for about $57)

On the cheaper end, https://smile.amazon.com/Linksys-E1000-Cisco-Linksys-Wireless-N-Router/dp/B003B48UNG/ will...do the job, I guess. As you have Comcast cable, there's a decent chance that you may have faster than 100mbit download speed, and if so, this router will limit you to 100, before anything else. But things do exist that will do the basic connectivity job, which is why I mentioned it. These older E-series are... they're okay, but less than stellar. By all means shop around for something, I'm just providing some examples of what exists - I don't know your budget or what you're willing to set up.

Oh, one last thing - if your internet plan offers more than 100mbit down, you'll absolutely want to get a router that has gigabit ethernet support. Otherwise you could end up with something like the above E1000 which only goes up to 100.

u/Bradl450 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Try this one out.
TP-Link AC1750 Smart WiFi Router - Dual Band Gigabit Wireless Internet Router for Home, Works with Alexa, VPN Server, Parental Control&QoS(Archer A7) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JD7F7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JEwtDbGJNW8B9

u/LA_roma · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

TP-Link AC1750 Smart WiFi Router - Dual Band Gigabit Wireless Internet Router for Home, Works with Alexa, VPN Server, Parental Control&QoS(Archer A7) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JD7F7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_S75sDbSVS66BE


I saw Netgear N600 as well which looks perfect but I'm not sure about the quality.

u/garylapointe · 1 pointr/cordcutters

Actually, this looks like a newer model (with higher ratings) for only $46.99 after the coupon (on the page) https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1750-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B079JD7F7G

​

u/schoolpaddled · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JD7F7G?tag=thewire06-20&linkCode=xm2&ascsubtag=AgEAAAAAAAAAASvr

Link from

https://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-wi-fi-router/

Newegg always works for me:

>TP-LINK Archer C7 Wireless AC1750 Dual Band Gigabit Router, 450 Mbps on 2.4 GHz + 1300 Mbps on 5 GHz, 2 USB Ports, IPv6

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833704177

u/clupean · 1 pointr/buildapc
u/pwnster1357 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

That is so weird, last night that link was taking me to the page for the Archer A7 (which also has a $10 coupon to clip)... I don't know if maybe I clicked something else while I was tired, but I could have sworn the link was taking me there, but now it takes me to the C7, haha.. My bad.

​

I guess the question then, is should I get the A7 or the C7? The A7 is cheaper, and from I read online, the only difference is the smart functionality with Alexa (though I don't use Alexa) would that hinder the router at all having that additional software? Would it be worth it since it's already $20 cheaper AND has a clippable $10 coupon?

​

As for the router and modem you listed, I wasn't saying what you suggested would cause a bottleneck, I just meant if I were to upgrade one or the other, which should I upgrade without causing a bottleneck? Would the AC1900 give better range or work any better with the smart home devices? My last network would get bogged down by smart home devices due to all the chatter on the network and Google mentioned some kind of bug of "built up packets" that stemmed from the devices always listening to each other.

​

Edit: Just woke up and I'm forgetting words

u/dabbing4datascience · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Can you find that for me on Amazon? I searched that exactly and nothing. :/ [This is what I found. Is this good? There's a 10$ off coupon

​

​

TP-Link AC1750 Smart WiFi Router - 5GHz Dual Band Gigabit Wireless Internet Routers for Home, Works with Alexa, Parental Control&QoS(Archer A7

​

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JD7F7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ulOUBbJXJMZ6V

u/fatcIemenza · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Yup, I'm definitely planning to game on ethernet as I do now.

That modem looks pretty good. Fair price and not time-limited for Cyber Monday like the Netgear stuff I was looking at.

I might as well ask, are you familiar with this router at all? TP Link AC1750 Archer A7. Also a fair price and not a limited time offer. I've seen it on a couple lists for great cost-performance balance.

u/Malfetus · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Does the hardware version matter in regards to OpenWRT?

C7'S seem to be resales/refurb which is fine, currently:


SB6141

C7

​

Comes to $109.89 which isn't bad at all!

​

There's also the Archer A7 which comes new, not sure if this is equivalent:

A7

u/greenochaa · 1 pointr/IThelpdesk

So there is not a simple end all be all solution this problem, unfortunately.

But a good place to start would be upgrading your 2 devices initially. I am assuming you have Cisco small business router and not 2 home routers.

The home routers looks something like this - https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1750-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B079JD7F7G/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=router&qid=1557460874&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

Cisco small business routers like this - https://www.amazon.com/Cisco-Systems-Gigabit-Router-RV325K9NA/dp/B00HODK3N0/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1WUJF97665J0D&keywords=cisco+small+business+router&qid=1557460910&s=gateway&sprefix=cisco+small%2Caps%2C166&sr=8-1

​

I would invest in something like the Cisco router I linked if you don't have it already. Fortunately, the Cisco router I linked is ready out of the box and can work on day 1. I would still confirm that with Cisco support as I only learned that from the Q and A page on Amazon. Having a router ready out of the box IS NOT THE NORM, and you generally need someone who knows how to configure them come in, usually a contractor of some sort. Alternatively, most home routers will support 255 devices, and that being said, and good Asus/Belkin/Netgear 150$ - 300$ router would likely be good enough for only 30 people.

Secondly - I don't know why you would need 2 routers. Routers enable a network to connect to the internet and to other networks. Having 2 seems unnecessary unless we are missing something. You can set up 1 router where your network meets the internet and have that second router be turned into a dedicated switch.

Cisco Switch (THIS IS NEEDS TO BE SET UP BY SOMEONE WHO KNOWS HOW TO MAINTAIN/CONFIGURE CISCO DEVICES) - https://www.amazon.com/Cisco-SLM2048T-NA-Mini-GBIC-Certified-Refurbished/dp/B07HFKMR2B/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=cisco+small+business+switch&qid=1557461367&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

Or - https://www.amazon.com/SYSTEMS-10-Port-Gigabit-Managed-SG35010K9NA/dp/B01HYA36SG/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=cisco+small+business+switch&qid=1557464529&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Unmanaged Switch (Commonly used at homes, Ready out of the box) - https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-16-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B01AX8XHRQ/ref=sxin_3_ac_d_pm?keywords=network+switch&pd_rd_i=B01AX8XHRQ&pd_rd_r=5575aed3-5184-474d-83c5-aca41f5c556a&pd_rd_w=K09zH&pd_rd_wg=uxzTY&pf_rd_p=5cc8abfe-8f78-4f34-b19f-d09d6ea0dca4&pf_rd_r=3F3DJSBGZNTDJQK0H8GG&qid=1557461743&s=gateway

*none of these switches will really impact performance, it's more along the lines of available ports and scalability.

From your second device (the switch), you should then be able to hardwire a few accesses points. The access points will broadcast the Wi-Fi signal covering generally about 1400 - 7000 FT depending on quality.

​

Cisco Access Point - https://www.amazon.com/SYSTEMS-802-11ac-Wireless-Access-WAP371AK9/dp/B00L0LIM62?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1

This AP claims that it is also plug and play. Again plug and play is great, but still, expect some troubleshooting if things don't work initially out of the box. It's always best to do research and consult a local IT person/department. Having a few of these AP's would provide some pretty solid Wi-Fi for the area as long as the ethernet cable is properly insulated and outside ethernet (CAT-6) cable is used where it needs to be used. Remember ethernet will have problems if it is exposed to the elements or if it exceeds 300 FT.

​

There is still so much more to consider and I'm really not that smart. Just your average IT guy trying to be helpful. Iv done this sort of things to an extent for a few years. Let me know if you have more questions.

u/Digip3ar · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I have this ,tp-link "Router", could I just set it up with a bridged port from a desktop that is using wifi?

u/NOT-JEFFREY-NELSON · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

AP is an access point, which is a device that broadcasts WiFi.

A gateway without a built in access point would not broadcast WiFi.

> Do I even need gigabit ethernet since I'm not playing video games or anything?

If you are getting a 200mbps plan, and don't get gigabit, you will be capped at fast ethernet speeds of 100mbps. Get gigabit.

I personally recommend this model by TP-Link:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1750-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B079JD7F7G/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1537914384&sr=8-4&keywords=tplink+router&dpID=41KuenPoJVL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

u/onebhk · 1 pointr/india

TP-Link 802.11ac Dual Band Gigabit Wireless Smart Wifi Router (AC1750 , Archer A7)

https://www.amazon.in/dp/B079JD7F7G/

u/sivartk · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I have a TP-Link Archer C9 (similar to the Archer A7) at the front of my 2100sqft house. At the opposite corner of the house, I still get download speeds in the 150Mbps range. I'd give something like that a try.

My parents have an Archer A9 in the front of their house in the study and it covers the whole house (they can stream in the back master bedroom no problem) which is about 3200sqft with about 2900sqft on the first floor (only a theater room upstairs).

Of course it will also depend on the number of WiFi networks and available "clean" channels, the materials that your walls are made out of, the number of walls in the house, etc.

I'd give one of those a try unless you just want to play around with the Edgerouter X. It may have some features that you really need that the TP-Link's don't, or it may have a bunch of features you'll pay for and never use. Just depends on your use case and how much you want to learn about network routing.

u/MyCatsNameIsBernie · 1 pointr/Roku

It's a WiFi standard that was introduced a few years ago. Most new WiFi routers support it. They typically have "AC" in the model name. For example: TP-Link AC1750 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JD7F7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_fP1RDbSHXMMFF

For more info: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEEE_802.11ac

u/nlflint · 1 pointr/OculusQuest

Any wireless router with 802.11AC and 1000+ reviews (4-5 star avg) will work fine.

NETGEAR Nighthawk Smart WiFi Router (R6700) ($70): https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-R6700-Nighthawk-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00R2AZLD2

TP-Link AC1750 Smart WiFi Router ($58): https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1750-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B079JD7F7G

Edit: By the way, DHCP a feature in all routers that assigns IP address when devices connect. There should only be 1 DHCP service running on a network or else they conflict and cause trouble.

u/bkemp1984Part2 · 1 pointr/rva

I'm embarrassed to think about how long I put it off when we moved to Richmond. When I did the math on how much I spent in those years, I feel like an idiot. I'm good with tech so making sure I found a good one that would be the right specs wasn't even hard.

I got a combo of a very basic, small modem that fit the right DOCSIS version and an router that got good reviews for really good wifi coverage. No issues with either until recently, router got wonky and had to update firmware. It's totally worth it. If you want to have to do no work, here's what I have:

Router: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1750-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B079JD7F7G/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=archer+ac1750&qid=1570811359&sr=8-3

Modem: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CH8ZNJ0/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The modem doesn't have as high a download speed as some but it's still capable of more than twice my plan's speed.

u/so_shut_up_BOI · 1 pointr/techsupport

Will this router get the job done?

Amazon link

u/nerdburg · 1 pointr/Comcast_Xfinity

$40 SB6183 (renewed) -spend the $5 and get the 3-year extended warranty.

$58 TP-Link Archer A7

I really can't recommend a budget gateway (all in one device) because they generally have subpar performance.

u/crappysyntax · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1750-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B079JD7F7G/

Apparently, I can post a SlickDeals link, but I can't post a SlickDeals referral link for Amazon. That makes so much sense.

This one is about the same in terms of features as the ASUS one you're looking at, but cheaper! Also more buyers/reviews/questions answered.

u/austuhnn · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

First off, I'd like to say thank you for the very informative response. Because I don't want to waste your time, I'll tell you the whole story straight up.

So I would like to order a router tomorrow because my mom agreed to pay for half of it for my rented college house. Therefore, I don't really want to spend the money for the "UAP" you're referring to as well as I'm not really sure how that works without doing the research. I've narrowed my search down to these three routers so far so I'd like for you to tell me which is the best, and if you disagree with all three, will you link me a router that is better, if you don't mind?

u/ilikeyertleturtles · 1 pointr/russia

Do I need to buy any specific equipment? Can I use American modems or wifi routers?

u/Avacyn80 · 1 pointr/PS4

I highly recommend TP-Link AC1750.

u/StackKong · 1 pointr/CoxCommunications

Hey, how is this modem? 30$ for Netgear Certified Refurbished Cm500

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Netgear-Certified-Refurbished-Cm500-100Nar-Docsis-3-0-Cable-Modem-With-16X4-Max/861291307

I want to get 30 Mbps Plan and I have already another Wifi Router which I will hook it up with called TP-Link AC1750/Archer A7

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079JD7F7G

Thanks

u/CrowWarrior · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I also have Comcast and just ordered these used from Amazon today.

u/keanex · 1 pointr/PleX

> First off, wifi for a streaming server is not an optimal setup, hard wired is preferred if you ask me.

People don't generally use WiFi by choice, and it's certainly not the case here. There is no chance of hard-wired in my current living situation.

> Also, 25mb is not a lot of bandwidth for a wifi card. How old is the PC? Some of my movies stream at 30mbps or greater depending on quality.

The WiFi adapter connected to my computer has pulled 350mbps up and down using 4 different speed tests. I am using it through USB 3 and have never pulled less than 150mbps using these speed tests. So I know the adapter is quite capable of pulling these numbers, as is the router of pushing them. The PC is brand new, 2600x, 16gb ram, RTX 2080, so it's not that.

When we had Comcast I had 250/10 and I wouldn't be able to stream past 8mbps on my PS4 Pro with both on the same network. I assume that's the Pro's WiFi adapter issues because people tell me over and over that in-network WiFi isn't affected by the internet speed, but the router's ability. Either way I never had the internet "drop out" before until switching to FiOS.

This all started when we moved to FiOS recently. When I'm streaming Plex from my computer to the PS4 Pro I am now getting the yellow WiFi warning sign in Windows 10 on my computer that says, "No internet, unidentified network." A quick troubleshoot by Windows and it's up and running, but the devices connected to the WiFi, other than my computer, are able to access the internet on the same WiFi during this time, even though my computer can't.

So I do not know what the deal is. It isn't my PS4 Pro in this case as the Pro is still connected to the internet. I am wondering if there is a setting I might need to change either on my adapter or my new FiOS Gateway router/modem to solve this as this didn't happen before moving to FiOS. Again though, I didn't have issues downloading something via uTorrent at 25mbps+ speeds for over an hour recently.

I am thinking about buying this router to see if it fixes the issues, but if it doesn't then I'm a jerk who just spent $50 on a modem I didn't need.

u/mrsolo · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

So your hookup will be something similar to this with modifications.

  1. The router doesn't have to have wifi access point since you already have the smoke detector. Consumer grade router is easier to configure. Pro consumer router such as this is a step up feature wise.

  2. The switch needs to have sufficient ports to hook up to all the wallplate + access point + router.. It is hard to tell how many there are from the picture.
u/solocomma · 1 pointr/techsupport

If you are not a tech-savvy person, and not trained, then just use hardware capable of delivering the needs.

​

Checkout Ubiquiti routers:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Security-Gateway-USG/dp/B00LV8YZLK/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1542900336&sr=8-13&keywords=ubiquiti+router

​

Their instruction on how to:

https://help.ubnt.com/hc/en-us/articles/115000166827-UniFi-Wireless-Guest-Network-Setup

u/Hutchisonac · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

So if I get the following:

Ubiquiti Unifi Security Gateway (USG) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LV8YZLK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_G.-6CbQKR05PA


Ubiquiti UniFi Switch 8 60W (US-8-60W) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MU3WUX1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oe.6CbNHHGH30

Ubiquiti Networks Unifi 802.11ac Dual-Radio PRO Access Point (UAP-AC-PRO-US) x2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRO512/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_We.6Cb27RWQ13

This should be sufficient, or am I missing something?

As someone who isn't network savy, is this relatively plug and play? I can mount the access points on the ceiling and plug into the cat 6 cables. The router would then plug into my modem in the smart panel, and be connected to the switch and my 4 Ethernet lines? (2 to the access points, 1 to living room and 1 to the den/office)

u/GreenChileEnchiladas · 1 pointr/techsupport

Ubiquiti.

It's not just a WiFi router, it's an AP that will connect to a Switch and has a hardware Security Gateway protecting the whole network.

If you want some quality equipment, Ubiquiti is pretty nice. Online Management, Stats and graphs and loads of functionality.

u/Chuyito · 1 pointr/homelab

2x
Ubiquiti Networks UAP-AC-Pro-E Access Point Single Unit New (No PoE Included in Box) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079DSW6XX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WPbJBbD5YV67X

And an optional USG Ubiquiti Unifi Security Gateway (USG) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LV8YZLK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ENbJBbQHYAV21

u/mrderpicusthesecond · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

Actually, it is. Check it out on Amazon.

u/SlainByWoodborne · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

Good question. I am under the impression that a USG does not provide PoE.

u/not12listen · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

taking into account cost and usability...

this is the route i would personally go with.

Ubiquiti Security Gateway (router)

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Security-Gateway-USG/dp/B00LV8YZLK/

Ubiquiti Long Range AP

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Long-Range/dp/B015PRCBBI/

Ubiquiti 8 Port Gigabit Switch

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-US-8-Unifi-Switch/dp/B01MZ32B1B/

the Ubiquiti gear takes a bit more time/knowledge to setup, but is far more robust and offers greater network security.

i'd strongly suggest naming your 2.4GHz network and 5GHz network slightly different names (ie. HomeNetwork24 / HomeNetwork5). this allows you to choose which network/signal you want to use. 2.4GHz for slower/older devices that are further away / 5GHz for newer/faster devices that need the extra speed (streaming, gaming, etc).

u/damacu · 1 pointr/googlefiber

Your best bet is to get a security appliance that does VPN whatever and then place a switch behind that. Any device connected to that switch would be on the VPN tunnel. I think the Ubiquiti UniFi Security Applicane may be what you need. However, I have no professional experience or colleague feedback on this device, so I cannot say for certain.

If you had the Ubiquiti EdgeRouter, you could initiate the same kinds of ipsec traffic from within, but you'd also need to get an external Access Point for wifi, as I don't believe you can use the Network Box as a local mode AP. If you have the TV service and the new equipment where the storage and network box are married, all of this becomes a much more complicated setup.

I don't think the extra hop on the interface in example one would have that much of an impact or degradation on traffic, as the NATing would be handled by the security appliance. Maybe DMZ that reserved address to overcome any issues.

/u/comptech. Thoughts? Any experience with that appliance?

u/pocketknifeMT · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

You are approaching this correctly I think.

If you are running wiring you will want to pick a location to be the network rack. typically where the lines come in the house (but obviously that doesn't matter here)

Get a 19in rack and mount it.



Patch Panel for punching down your terminations there.

Get a shelf.

Probably looking at a 16-port switch? Maybe 24?

I like the Unifi stack for everything. lots of people say the edge routers, which makes some sense for one location I guess. It's a little bit more detailed UI. Literally the same hardware though.

I like the USG. If it were me I would probably put in the Pro, because rackmount, but that's stupid crazy overkill from a tech perspective. It would bother me irrationally, just the form factor.

Then you drop your Access Points in. It depends on how the house is setup, but you want to put them where you actually will use them. At 4000sqft, 2-3 should cover it, depending on layout.



> So looking for suggestions on setup. Was thinking about going all Ubiquiti gear but alot of people say it can be challenging to setup but great once you get it working. With the hassle of moving, young kids, and dealing with getting internet in the first place Im not sure I have time for something that will take a while to get working great.

It won't take much time at all to actually set it up. Physically setting it up will be the time consuming bit. The technical setup will be nothing to someone who runs a VM server. In fact you will do what I do and just spin up a headless ubuntu instance and install the controller. You click adopt a few times on the hardware in a pretty UI and it's done.







u/randomitguy42 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

That is pricy. This Ubiquiti USG is pretty good for a security appliance.

u/Hoping_i_Get_poached · 1 pointr/homelab

Thanks for the input. Yes there are coax wires unterminated behind a random blank box cover. I looked behind 4 before I found cat5 (in my office... lucky me). I'm going to speak to my super this week about a number of issues and I need to remember to ask him about this.

I don't think your hardware suggestion will work. I see that most of those models are rack units. I'm looking for something with a manageable size.

What do you think about this or this or this?

u/don_don_don · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Router. As it's fiber so no need for modem. Awesome list!

Also, is there anything similar recommende to this but with more LAN ports? https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Security-Appliance-USG/dp/B00LV8YZLK This is Unifi USG you mentioned, right?

u/realcoinsonly · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

I don’t believe it’s the pro.

Ubiquiti Unifi Security Gateway (USG) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LV8YZLK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oegVCbSF4YWHZ

u/detarevosipeels · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I do agree and I've heard lots of good things about Ubiquiti and did look into that:

switch (https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Security-Gateway-USG/dp/B00LV8YZLK)

AP (https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Long-Range/dp/B015PRCBBI/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HVE9H3KXJB8DQZ6MEKAH)

That would run me about $300 for two AP's for the non-pro versions which is what the router cost, but then I'd have to string PoE cable which would be difficult but not impossible. I was hoping there was a simpler solution and someone had good experiences with an off the shelf router. I'm also scared of investing into Ubiquiti because if it doesn't work out as well the return process would be more difficult.

u/Wadeace · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

first off, don't rent a router from your ISP. you will need to use a modem or gateway depending on the type of internet you are getting. if you are using cable or dsl i would also suggest to buy your own modem as well. it's a modern version of renting a rotary phone from the company and a racket.

you can get a router and wifi combo that is new and good for about $150 or more for faster or more advanced features.

as far as game plan for your home here is my suggestions
to start you off since you just moved in and are already renting it for now just use the provided router from to fiber provider so you can get connected and plan the rest of this build out.

depending on the layout and size of your home (cinder block construction is terrible for wifi and other rf signals) you may need multiple access points. my suggestion is to look into a brand of networking equipment called ubiquity.

they are relatively new to the market and have really shaken up the price and feature packs. set up is mainly through a web and mobile app and is very easy for a relatively new person to IT. there is also a huge community here on reddit and youtube showing off features and giving how to's.

here is my goto suggestion if you are willing to invest in an infrastructure more than a single router.

the fiber will come into your property and go through a modem and gateway provided by the isp you would then plug it into a router:
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Security-Gateway-USG/dp/B00LV8YZLK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1526552321&sr=8-2&keywords=unifi

This is a smaller model that is a router and firewall combo by ubiquity, its about 110 at amazon

Then you plug the router into a switch:
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Managed-Gigabit-US-8-150W/dp/B01DKXT4CI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526552321&sr=8-3&keywords=unifi

This is a sort of backbone device that you would use to send the internet to other devices and for other devices to comunicate with each other. this one is a poe switch which means it can send power to some devices like access points over the one cat 5 cable. this one has 8 ports so that means 7 outboard devices can be connected to the network because one is needed for the router. they make larger ones with more ports for more devices. this model is currently 194 on amazon

you will then need access points:
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1526552321&sr=8-5&keywords=unifi

these are radios that broadcast wifi to your wireless devises these connect to the switch with cat 5 cables and are best placed near where you are going to use wifi devises the average home would benefit from two or three of these one to cover the living room kitchen great room area and one to cover the bedroom hallway are and possibly one for the backyard pool area (that might be important because of your external walls). this model is currently 80 on amazon.

if you deploy this list you will also need a cloud key:
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Cloud-Key-Control/dp/B017T2QB22/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526553343&sr=8-1&keywords=cloud+key

this is a devise that manages the network and stores configuration files locally. it's like a mini server. this is about 78 on amazon.

you will also need cat 5/6/7 cables of various lengths and a power strip for about 500 you can get a really great network that can cover your whole house and that can easily be upgraded incrementally as technology improves. My suggestion would be to get all this mounted in a closet somewhere and get cat5/6/7 run to all the things that you can and place the access point in the house so you get the best coverage possible for the IOT devises in your house. as your network grows and you need more wired ports you can add a switch or replace the one with a 24 or 46 port one. when wifi tech improves past ag you can just replace the access points without affecting the rest of the network.another big thing is to run cable to anything you can this will help with keeping your wifi fast since there are less devices on the wifi.

Edit:
If there are two main points they would be:

  1. wire everything you can so that way the devises that need to be wireless can be faster
  2. Don't rent non-proprietary equipment from your ISP
u/loyalninjarer · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I do not have a fios router. I have a USG

Why would you only need 1 moca if you are using the FIOS router? I think i will have more follow up questions if you don't mind.

Also, do you notice any throughput issues when you split 1 moca line into 2?

Edit: and thank you!

u/jakecovert · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I have the Ubiquiti USG router. I love it. With my 1GB AT&T Fiber, I get about 900 MB up/down.

USG on Amazon

But it is only a router. Not a switch, or an access point. But for network geeks, it works great. :-)

Maybe others could recommend a more entry level Netgear one.

u/jasonin951 · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

I just took advantage of NewEgg's sale ($89 each) and bought 2 US-8 switches to replace my non unifi switches. They also had the PoE version of the switch that you want for $99.

Amazon has the USG for $112: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LV8YZLK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/mmm-toast · 1 pointr/Network

I noticed that myself. I guess NETGEAR just gave up on those.

Ended up ordering one of these.

Do you think it will be a suitable replacement?

u/LHoT10820 · 1 pointr/splatoon

tl;dr: Of how to get Splatoon running well easily but for money (which will also benefit every other internet enabled device in your home!).

Step 1) If you're using an ISP provided modem (or heaven forbid modem/router combo), take it and chuck it in the garbage into their returns center. Replace this with a new (new in box, not used), ISP compatible modem.

Step 2) If your router is from 2010 or early, it's time to upgrade. If you don't have one because it was in your Modem provided by an ISP. . . Well, you need to get one (also new!).

Step 2.5 (OPTIONAL BUT RECOMMENDED IF YOU POSSES THE TECHNICAL APTITUDE)) Install an alternate firmware (OpenWRT, DD-WRT, etc) to your router.

Step 3) Get an Ethernet Adaptor for your Wii U.

Step 4) Get a line of at least CAT-5e (just about any ethernet cable you'll find in store long enough to reach from your router to your Wii U (so long as that's less than 100 meters), and plug them into each other.

Step 5) Set your Wii U to run off the new shiny wired connection!

Step 6) If running your Wii U on a wired connection is not an option, nor is purchasing about $150~200 in network equipment viable. Send me a PM and I can help you make the best of it.

u/dburge1986 · 1 pointr/AndroidTV

I woke up this morning, turned my Mi Box on and realized the Ethernet was no longer connected. I had the wifi toggled off too. I am experiencing the same issue as you. Once I rebooted, Ethernet was connected again.

This is the one I have:
Ugreen USB 2.0 to 10/100 Fast Ethernet Lan Wired Network Adapter for Macbook, Chromebook, Windows 10, 8.1 and Earlier, Mac OS X 10.11,Surface Pro, Wii, Wii U, Linux ASIX AX88772 Chipset (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYT481C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tPMCybXFK95A2

u/MrAxlee · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

Probably not.

This one is working for me.

u/Wolfntee · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

UPDATE: After playing a few matches of CTR Nitro Fueled Online, I didn't notice any significant heat increase.

This is the adapter I use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYT481C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3WLjDbK19VHRF

u/rajasekarcmr · 1 pointr/Cisco

Is it possible to use one of this along with regular Ethernet cable as Console cable.


https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Ethernet-Adapter-Nintendo-Chromebook/dp/B00MYT481C/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?keywords=wifi+to+ethernet+converter&qid=1566534935&s=gateway&sr=8-9



Storite LAN Adapter, USB 2.0 to Fast RJ45 Ethernet 10/100 Mbps Network Card for Windows, PC, Androids - Blue https://www.amazon.in/dp/B00GH6ROGO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_352xDbR25YF75

u/SilentBobVG · 1 pointr/buildapc

If it's just the ethernet port that's gone, you should try something like this before you go and buy a whole new motherboard

u/lilwrinkles · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

I got a recommendation for a off brand adaptor on Amazon from this sub reddit that works great. I went from a 6mbps(wifi) to a 39mbps(wired). The adapter was $10 with free shipping.

UGREEN Ethernet Adapter USB 2.0 to 10/100 Network RJ45 Lan Wired Adapter for Nintendo Switch, Wii, Wii U, Macbook, Chromebook, Windows 10, 8.1, Mac OS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYT481C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_nk7jJt2Ewrut5

u/Buttholehemorrhage · 1 pointr/Android

About 30 bucks, I recommend 2 for redundancy

Rasp Pi zero

Pi Hole


And if you don't want to resolve DNS querrys over wireless get this

u/salterhd · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

I bought this from amazon UGREEN Ethernet Adapter, USB... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00MYT481C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_shareon 1st march around release date. Been using it since never had any problems. Only 9.99 from amazon UK.

Name of product: "UGREEN Ethernet Adapter, USB 2.0 to 10/100 Network Adapter, USB to RJ45 Lan Wired Adapter for Nintendo Switch, Wii, Wii U, Macbook, Chromebook, Windows 10, 8.1, Mac OS 10.13, Surface Pro Linux Black"

u/gam3v3t3r3n · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Currently my router is upstairs and I have 1 ethernet cable running through the floor to my desktop. I would rather not use Wi-Fi on my switch. Could I use something like this to split my cable, or would something like this be better?

Secondly for the cable should I purchase the official Nintendo connector or would this cheaper one work?

u/Bumledyret · 1 pointr/CloneHero

Hello.

Do you think a standard Wii to USB converter such as this one would work aswell?

u/ImmediateArmadillo6 · 1 pointr/OnlineESLTeaching

I don't have experience with Magic Ears, however I have heard that USB ethernet adapters work fairly well in those situations. If you have USB-C, that would be the best option but USB 3 should work just fine too.


Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Adapter-uni-Thunderbolt-Compatible/dp/B077KXY71Q

​

or https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Ethernet-Adapter-Nintendo-Chromebook/dp/B00MYT481C/


Apple sells them direction too, but they're pricy and the reviews aren't great: https://www.apple.com/shop/product/HJKF2ZM/A/belkin-usb-c-to-gigabit-ethernet-adapter?afid=p238%7Cs59OuuTzU-dc_mtid_1870765e38482_pcrid_246387003261_groupid_49565832687&cid=aos-us-kwgo-pla-btb-3pp--slid-----product-HJKF2ZM/A

u/DayManIn3D · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Getting Prepared for smash and have 2 questions.


1- Lan adapters - Does it matter exactly what i get? I would like to NOT pay 30 bucks for the official Nintendo one and found this on Amazon but wasn't sure if its exactly what i need?
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Ethernet-Adapter-Nintendo-Chromebook/dp/B00MYT481C/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1543589715&sr=8-5&keywords=nintendo+switch+lan+adapter


2- Game cube controllers, Do any USB(unlicensed) game cube controllers work with the switch? Or do i need to buy either the USB converter or the Switch Game cube controllers?


Thanks!

u/balents · 1 pointr/smashbros

If you want official, get the Hori one, but i saw a comment in a thread on r/NintendoSwitch where someone said this one works just fine too

u/DanTheMan827 · 1 pointr/nintendo

If they use the same adapter as the Wii and Wii U, you can get a third party adapter for less than $10.

UGREEN USB 2.0 to 10/100 Fast Ethernet Lan Wired Network Adapter for Macbook, Chromebook, Windows 10, 8.1 and Earlier, Mac OS X 10.11,Surface Pro, Wii, Wii U, Linux ASIX AX88772 Chipset

In fact, any adapter with the ASIX AX88772 chipset should work if that's the case.

u/_what_username_ · 1 pointr/smashbros

UGREEN Ethernet Adapter USB 2.0... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYT481C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

This is the one I’ve been using. Occasionally it struggles but I just unplug it and plug it back in and it works smashingly.

u/S-T-R-E-G-A · 1 pointr/splatoon

Interference comes from everything. Line of sight with the access point helps a lot though. If Ethernet is an option then do it. You can grab an adapter off amazon for $10.00USD.

I got this one recently. Works great. I stopped dropping games in ARMS as soon as I started using it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYT481C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_wECrIaITjxfhd

u/legos45 · 1 pointr/SuggestALaptop

You can purchase a USB to Ethernet adaptor.

u/compuguide · 1 pointr/Surface

Could be a problem with your router's wifi.

You might want to test with a USB to Ethernet adapter

u/StimulatorCam · 1 pointr/wiiu

First you need something like this to provide the port, but then you need to figure out how to network it as it sounds like you want to connect to your laptop which is tethered to your phone. I'm sure it's doable, but I'm not certain on how to set that up.

u/peppruss · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

I've had 12/13 games perfect using this $9 USB Ethernet adapter even on mediocre DSL. Didn't have to set DMZ. Worked out of the box. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYT481C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DbIbzb85TTGJD

u/zoahporre · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

this will solve your issue

Plug one in near your router and plug the other one near your switch. Get one of those USB Ethernet adapters too.

u/DrVagax · 1 pointr/nintendo

If anything, if you got access to a ethernet cable then just get yourself a cheap router and make your own WiFi for your room/dorm.

Otherwise, this one works with the Switch

u/SuperSonicOblivion · 1 pointr/supersmashbros

Just make sure you get a hardwire connection. I don’t have any problems, but I did when I used WiFi and when I got a WiFi extender in my room.

Hardwire is the way to go

UGREEN Ethernet Adapter USB 2.0 to 10/100 Network RJ45 LAN Wired Adapter for Nintendo Switch, Wii, Wii U, MacBook, Chromebook, Windows 10, 8.1, Mac OS, Surface Pro, Linux ASIX AX88772 Chipset (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYT481C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_c9t3Db24JNH56

u/Dizzfizz · 1 pointr/Surface

That’s a great tip, I didn’t even think of using an adapter like that, thanks!

I was about to buy one of these, but yours is a lot more practical.

u/i_noah_guy98 · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

You need a USB to Ethernet adapter in order to use an ethernet cable with the Switch. I recommend either this ethernet adapter (USB 2.0 version) or this ethernet adapter (USB 3.0 version).

If you want to find something cheaper, the general rule is that if it works with the Wii/Wii U, it will work with the Switch.

If your router/modem and Switch dock are in separate rooms, you need to run an ethernet cable between the router/modem and your dock.

u/atp159 · 1 pointr/firetvstick
u/derpterpp · 1 pointr/UMD

cat 5.e and I have lenovo yoga with a gpu and its able to run csgo fine when i have a decent connection(120+ fps), but im using this ethernet to usb adapter since my laptop doesn't have a ethernet port, do you think that's causing any problems.

u/king-_-friday · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking
u/JajanKH3N · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Hey need some help with lan adapter. Before a 5 months ago I bought this adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MYT481C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
He worked to me all the time. Today I tried and he stopped working on the switch but when I tried the adapter on my PC and PS4 it worked. I tunred off the system, didn't help. Do you have any solution?

u/H3RO1N · 1 pointr/wiiu

I bought this one about two weeks ago for my Wii U. It works and looks great with a reflective black finish that matches my console. It has reduced lag on most Super Smash Bros. online matches, but not eliminated it completely.



u/marshall_law · 1 pointr/Stadia
u/Elethor · 1 pointr/Switch

Good is subjective, but the one that I have is this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MYT481C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and it works just fine.

u/pmd5700 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Thanks for the reply! I don't believe the US-8-60W does 24V passive. I'm planning on getting an injector and an AP-AC Lite.

I guess my main point is that I'm currently running one of these and one of these. They meet my current needs perfectly. The only reason I need a switch is so I can add some cameras. The AP will be just an extra goody. I don't mind managing the AP separately from the cameras.

With the UniFi switch I'll need a UniFi controller, correct? Does that need to be running constantly or can I have it available on my main PC incase I need to change something?

u/realmain · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

The TP-Link AC1900 Acher C9 is a GREAT router

u/samwheat90 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Some popular (and reasonably priced) routers:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Archer-C7-Wireless-1300Mbps/dp/B00BUSDVBQ?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PDLRHFW/ref=psdc_300189_t1_B00BUSDVBQ

https://www.amazon.com/RT-AC66U-Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1750-Gigabit-Router/dp/B008ABOJKS

https://www.amazon.com/RT-AC68U-Wireless-AC1900-Dual-Band-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00FB45SI4/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1465599997&sr=1-2&keywords=asus+router

Both brands should be good-to-go out of the box, but people do like to flash either DD-WRT or Tomato firmware on them. This will give you some more options, but most likely overkill for what you're looking for atm.

Remember, it's not just the hardware. Distance from your router and your devices plays a large roll. If possible, use ethernet as much as possible or put the router as close to the clients as possible.

u/MKEman · 1 pointr/techsupport

Do not purchase a router with the ADSL modem built in. A straight router, I could recommend the Asus RT-AC68U or the TP Link Archer C9 i

u/Bornflying · 1 pointr/gadgets

In all seriousness, this router is great and won't break the bank. (No I don't sell these things)

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-AC1900-Wireless-Archer-C9/dp/B00PDLRHFW?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00


Edit: Probably most people only need the AC1750 Model (Most receiver adapters don't have the 3 antennas to use A1900)

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BUSDVBQ/ref=psdc_300189_t1_B00PDLRHFW

u/jollysaintnick88 · 1 pointr/cordcutters

I really appreciate all of your help thus far.

I'm pretty sure I'm going with the Arris sb6190 seen here. Thoughts?

As far as a router, wifi speeds are really important as I plan on streaming a lot of content to my main TV (a flight of stairs away from the router) including large file sized movies. Is this C9 the one you're referring to by chance? The current spectrum modem/router only pushes about 65Mbps via wifi. Should I be able to get more with this Archer C9?

In the C9 product description it states "3 detachable dual band antennas for maximum wireless coverage and reliability" what does that mean? Do you utilize this?

u/david8anderson · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Yeah it sounds like it would be easiest to get a router, the AC1900 is great if you're worried about wireless being slower

u/GeorgieShawn · 1 pointr/xboxone

Anyone have any experience with TP-Link's routers? I've heard& read great things about them based on the features they offer vs price & I believe they made the Google OnHub.

I've been specifically eyeing this one TP-LINK Archer C7 AC1750 Dual Band Wireless AC Gigabit Router, 2.4GHz 450Mbps+5Ghz 1300Mbps, 2 USB Ports, IPv6, Guest Network https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BUSDVBQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zpwvxbK10RT2V

And this one: TP-LINK AC1900 Archer C9 Dual Band Wireless Wi-Fi AC Router https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PDLRHFW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kswvxbVHXSQN8

u/arkhira · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Just some ideas of what you can look into. If your current modem is a router combo you might be able to place it into bridge mode and connect to the WAN port of a router. That might require a call to your ISP.

  • NetGear R6220
  • TP-Link Archer C5
  • TP-Link Archer C9

    All of these would exceed your 8 device requirement. Also it would "future-proof" you if you decide to upgrade from DSL to something faster. They all run off 2.4GHz and 5GHz bands. The 2.4GHz band is better for range as it goes through objects better. However the 5GHz outperforms at shorter ranges and also has less interference from other wireless devices.
u/LegitStrats · 1 pointr/hardwareswap

OP, if you're willing to spend $30 extra and get a great router, get [this] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PDLRHFW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_U40Bxb1VW0S37). It has a dual core processor and beamforming technology so latency will never be an issue. If you want one for $100, get [this] ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BUSDVBQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HX0BxbJ56QCA1) one. It's literally the same except it's only one core and no beamforming technology. These routers are still insanely good for the price.

u/GoldenState- · 1 pointr/Comcast

Looks like the Netgear CM500 I saw on Amazon has that puma chip. Supposedly Motorola modems don't have that chip. Does this modem seem good? Right now I don't have access to the account so I can't see the Comcast modems page.


[Motorola MB7420] (https://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Certified-Comcast-Spectrum-BrightHouse/dp/B01A1E6BA2/ref=sr_1_9?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1517889047&sr=1-9&keywords=cable+modem)


Also any wireless router would work? How is this?


[TP Link AC1900] (https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-AC1900-Smart-Router/dp/B00PDLRHFW/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8)

u/tomahawk576 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

archer C9 I've been using this router for my duplex about 1000 sqft upstairs and 1400 sqft downstairs. Four people 3 play stations 4 laptops 4 iPhones and tablets and an Apple TV. This has worked flawlessly for the 6 or so months I've had it. Setup is easy and you can run it as a media server, it even recognizes OSX journaled hard drives.

u/xeqtr_inc · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

If coverage isn't the issue, better get this, can easily serve your needs

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1900-Smart-Wireless-Router/dp/B00PDLRHFW

​

​

​

u/VampyreLust · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

You do have a point though, I don't need mesh, I liked the idea of it but if I got one of these and one of these I would essentially be doing the same thing I was with the AirPort Extreme/Express but with faster hardware and signals right?

u/TheEthyr · 1 pointr/wifi

> Here is a layout with the modem/router included: https://prnt.sc/nvevd4

It's a good thing you pointed out that your house has brick walls. Wi-Fi signals have a tough time getting through brick, so you should rule out mesh.

> Currently I am using an old router (Asus RT-N12+B1) and a powerline extender (TP-LINK Powerline TL-WPA2020) in the "Office" room - both marked on the layout. This way I am getting around ~55Mbps on wifi from router and ~30Mbps from the powerline extender.

For the benefit of other readers, both the Asus and the TP-Link only support 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi. They also have 100 Mbps Ethernet ports. Yikes! This equipment is holding you back.

> Suffice to say both equipment has a cap of 300Mbps (wired I assume).

No, that's wireless. Due to the way Wi-Fi works, actual wireless speeds will be at least 50% slower. Worse, cut speeds in half again because 2.4 GHz is generally limited to using 20 MHz wide channels, whereas TP-Link's number assumes 40 MHz channels. IOW, you're looking at nominal Wi-Fi speeds of around 75 Mbps.

>I am looking to exchange these to use the bandwidth from our provider a bit more. I should note that I am not a networking enthusiast (yet).
>
> I don't want to spend a lot here (aiming at around $100) but for example I'd like to have the option to perhaps create a mesh network at some point.
>
> Here are the options I have considered. (feel free to suggest additional ones also):

> #1 TP-Link AC1900 ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00PDLRHFW/ )

> Just a better router which I think has a bit better coverage also.

I don't have any personal experience with this model but it looks like an average, run of the mill, consumer grade router. That's not to say it's bad. For a long time, an AC1900 class router represented the sweet spot in terms of Wi-Fi bandwidth and cost. BTW, AC1900 stands for up to 600 Mbps at 2.4 GHz and up to 1300 Mbps at 5 GHz. Again, these are inflated by at least 100%.

Moreover, the Wi-Fi capabilities of devices must also be taken into account. The average smartphone with 802.11ac Wi-Fi, for example, will at best leverage only 2/3rds of what this router is capable of. You're still looking at 200-400 Mbps, which is quite an improvement.

It's always hard to say anything about range. The TP-Link may have better range, but the brick walls in your house are going to put a damper on that.

> I probably would still have to use the powerline extender in the Office. (would that have a better performance also with a better router?)

A router with Gigabit Ethernet ports will certainly open up access to the full bandwidth provided by your Internet connection. But it looks like your Powerline extender only has a 100 Mbps Ethernet port, so that's going to be a bottleneck. Honestly, I would not expect much, if any, improvement.

I would be careful about upgrading to a faster Powerline adapter with a Gigabit Ethernet port. You may not see very much improvement. Powerline is a notoriously finicky and, frequently, disappointing technology. Real world and published speeds are nowhere close to each other. That's not to say that it doesn't work for some people, but you can forget about seeing anywhere close to Gigabit speeds.

> #2 Netgear Orbi RBK30 ( https://www.cclonline.com/product/243512/RBK30-100UKS/Cable-Routers/Netgear-Orbi-RBK30-Wireless-AC2200-Tri-Band-Network-Router-with-Satellite/NET2800/ )
>
> With AC2200 it should of course give much better speeds than the current router (I hope), and there would be the option to exchange the powerline extender with an other Orbi unit to create a mesh network? Would that work?

While the Orbi is one of the better mesh products, you should not consider it with a brick-walled house.

> #3 Unifi AP AC LR
>
> I've seen this being suggested numerous times but I am a bit hesitant about it. Mainly because I don't quite understand how it would work and it seems to me that it would be more expensive that I'd want to pay.
>
> Since I am not well versed in networking I am unsure how access points actually work.

Think of an Access Point as a device that provides a Wi-Fi connection to a network. A Wi-Fi router has a built-in Access Point, along with an Ethernet switch, firewall and NAT. If you were to disable Wi-Fi on the router and connect an external Access Point, like the Unifi, into one of the router's Ethernet ports, you would functionally have the same thing.

The beauty of Wi-Fi is that you can distribute multiple Access Points throughout your residence to provide strong Wi-Fi coverage. You can even use the Access Point built into the router to complement the external Access Points. The catch is that external Access Points must be wired to the router. BTW, your TP-Link Powerline extender is technically an Access Point. It just happens to be wired to the router using A/C wires.

> 1. I would need a router obviously and I had the idea that this AP can work as one. Is that so? Or would I actually need to purchase a router and this would only serve as an access point somewhere else?

As I explained above, the Unifi would only serve as an Access Point. You would still need a router. You might consider a Ubiquiti USG. It's limited to a total throughput of 1000 Mbps (up and down combined), so it falls a bit short of what your Internet connection is capable of. In practical terms, you are unlikely to ever notice unless you intend to frequently hammer your Internet connection. Unfortunately, a USG + Unfi AP would significantly exceed your budget of $100.

> 2. Now my question here: if I wanted to have a second AP would I need to get the ethernet wiring over there also (meaning it wouldn't work wirelessly as mesh networks do)? Powerline would work for me as well I just don't want to install another 50meter cable into the walls (although I might consider it through the attic if it's that good of an idea).

An Access Point does need to be wired to the router. Ethernet is the fastest and most reliable medium. If you have coax in your house, I would seriously consider MoCA. Think of MoCA as Ethernet over coax. It's much more reliable than Powerline. You need a MoCA adapter at each end of the coax segment. The fastest adapters (Bonded MoCA 2.0/2.5) are pricy but they can achieve near Gigabit speeds. Powerline should only be used as a last resort.

> 3. well this is worrying as I wouldn't want to keep a separate machine running just to keep the internet up

It's true that Unifi Access Points are managed by controller software running on a separate machine. But it's only necessary if you want to have a guest network with a login portal or if you want to monitor Wi-Fi traffic statistics. A guest network without a login portal does not require the controller to run continuously. There is also a smartphone app that can be used in lieu of the controller. It provides only very basic setup functions, which might suffice for you. Note: The controller can run on something as a small as a Raspberry Pi. Ubiquiti also sells something called a Cloud Key, which is basically a small computer dedicated to running the controller software.

If this all sounds like too much trouble, then you may want to consider TP-Link EAP Access Points. They have a built-in web portal for management.

> 4. on paper the Orbi gives a 2200Mbps performance compared to the Unifi one which if I calculate correctly is 1300+Mbps. So why opt for this?

2200 Mbps includes a 866 Mbps connection that's dedicated to the mesh function used by the nodes for communicating with each other. The bandwidth available to devices is 1300 Mbps, so it's basically the same.

u/KAABIIO · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Hey all, I'm wondering which is the better router here.

I recently bought this one on amazon, but this is still within the return window if the other one is better:

TP-Link AC1900 Long Range Wireless Wi-Fi Router - Amazon's Choice for Essential Wi-Fi Router (Archer C9) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PDLRHFW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kLnDzb7T0R6DT

Below is the router that just went back on sale. I'm wondering if it's better than the above router to justify me returning the TP-Link.

NETGEAR Nighthawk AC1750 Smart Dual Band WiFi Router (R6700) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R2AZLD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FInDzbR34GW34

Thanks!

u/tempname321123 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Comment threads are good. Somebody might have the same issue.

We don't have the routers on at the same time. We did have it to where they were both connected but the issues still persisted.

I'm thinking about getting something like [this] (http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Archer-C9-Wireless-Beamforming/dp/B00PDLRHFW/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1419703312&sr=1-5&keywords=router) but I don't want to just throw money at a router and expect the issue to be resolved. Need some professional advice.

u/HWTechGuy · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Something like this should suit you nicely. Under $100 and a solid performer.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1900-Smart-Wireless-Router/dp/B00PDLRHFW

u/xplusyequalsz · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

If you'd rather have a wireless router instead of the AC-lite for your WiFi, something like this is decent.

u/ToasterFanclub · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

The C9 I have is on sale for $70 right now:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-AC1900-Smart-Router/dp/B00PDLRHFW/

Should have plenty of range for you and I haven't had any issues.

u/opeth10657 · 1 pointr/pcgamingtechsupport

buy a cheap unmanaged switch

Just plug one of the cables from the router into it, then plug another from the switch to your PCs

u/Jremy2001 · 1 pointr/OnHub

Here's my device I ordered.

u/thatgermanperson · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Do you mean ethernet routers/switches? That's definitely preferable to wireless network. Pretty much any would do, make sure it's (at least) matching your motherboard's ethernet speed. This is an example.

u/anthrax704 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Get a 4 port switch from tp link or similar. Plug in the feed from the powerline and your 2 PC's

This one will work https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-TL-SG1005D-1000Mbps-Gigabit-Capacity/dp/B000N99BBC

u/Basicly_It · 1 pointr/techsupport

Unless your downloading something important like an update and you make sure to press-down the tab on the plug of your cable before you unplug it then your PS4, Ethernet cable, and PC should all be fine.

EDIT: here's a decent no-hassle Ethernet switch ( https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-SG1005D-Unmanaged-Gigabit-Desktop/dp/B000N99BBC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1518680831&sr=8-4 ) and some extra cat 7e cables to make life easier ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0171EUKFM/ref=twister_B017XDHU40?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 )

u/TyroneTheWhiteWIzard · 1 pointr/buildapc

Ok if you need this build now then what I suggested will do very good, the only reason to spend more time would be to drop the price by a few dollars, but you can get away with this one.

[Here is the switch I used] (http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-SG1005D-1000Mbps-Gigabit-Capacity/dp/B000N99BBC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404190845&sr=8-1&keywords=ethernet+switch+10%2F100%2F1000)

And [Here is an alright 100 ft cord] (http://www.amazon.com/Patch-Ethernet-Network-Cable-White/dp/B000TYR5R8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404190880&sr=8-1&keywords=ethernet+cord+100ft)

And I am guessing you really don't need 100 ft, so [here is a good 50ft one for less] (http://www.amazon.com/Cat5e-Network-Ethernet-Cable-Blue/dp/B000QZ001I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1404190921&sr=8-2&keywords=ethernet+cord+50ft)

Also you need ethernet cords to connect to your PC so here is [A 7ft cord, overkill, but just in case] (http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-7-Feet-CAT5e-Snagless-Patch/dp/B00000J1V5/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1404190985&sr=8-2&keywords=ethernet+cable+5ft)

Cheapest route = $25

Expensive Route= $30

This will provide much faster internet speeds, and after you set it up, much less trouble keeping it running.

Internet speed decreases the further it goes in wireless, and it decreases even more when it goes through objects, like walls and furniture.

Also, if there is a microwave in the way, like there is for me, it decreases much more when the microwave is on, as the microwaves mess with the signal.

Wired, it decreases slightly for longer cords, so get it as short as possible, but it still keeps most of it's strength.

My computer in my gaming room wireless can't connect to the internet most of the time, and when it can, the download speed is in the kilobytes.

When it is 10ft from my modem wireless, it gets 25mbs download.

When it is connected via ethernet, it gets around 55 to 65mbs download, it is much faster...

u/voidsource · 1 pointr/lanparty

ISP Bandwidth does not matter on LAN. Are you playing over wireless? If so you may see some slight intermittentcy depending on what type of access point/router that you have. You may want to look into a small switch. Here is an example of a small switch that you could use for a wired lan.

u/Dstanding · 1 pointr/buildapcsales
u/alliedSpaceSubmarine · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

What would you suggest??

I was looking at these because they seemed good enough and cheap

u/TheFrin · 1 pointr/networking

you seen to know what you're talking about ;p

I hope this will do the job http://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-Link-Gigabit-Unmanaged-Desktop-TL-SG1005D/dp/B000N99BBC/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top