(Part 2) Best computer networking switches according to redditors

Here's the composition of the rack:

• NavePoint 12U Network Rack
  
• TP-Link TL-SG1024: 24 port rackmount switch
  
• TP-Link TL-SG1016PE: 16 port rackmount power over ethernet switch (needed for the Wi-Fi access points)
  
• TP-Link TL-R600VPN: Rackmount router w/ dual-WAN and VPN
  
• Rackmount Power w/ surge protection
  
• Rack shelf: Used to hold modem and NAS
  
• Patch Panel: 24-port Cat6 patch panel (wires go in the pack via punchdown connection, and you run patch cables to the switches)
  
• 12" Patch cables: For connecting between the patch panel, swicthes, other on-rack devices
  
• Synology 416play NAS: Movies, music, pictures, etc. 32 TB in all.
  
  Elsewhere in the house/other useful parts:
  
  
• Keystone Cat6 jacks: one per bedroom, 4 in my home office, 4 in the media room (not built yet), 3 in the family room
  
• 1-, 2-, 3-, and 4-hole keystone wall plates: Buy the number of holes you want and just pop in the keystone jacks
  
• Blank keystone inserts: For when you have too many holes in the keystone plates
  
• Ubiquiti AC Pro x 3: Wi-Fi access points, roughly center of the house on each floor (basement, first, second)
  
• Punchdown tool: For doing the punchdown connections on the patch panel and on each of the keystone Cat6 plugs in each room
  
• Extra rack screws and washers
  
• J-Hook: There are two hooks on each wall, holding service loops for the Cat6 and Coax, respectively.
  
  Useful things I learned:
  
  
• I was originally going to run the wires myself, but never could find the time. Also Cat6 is expensive when not purchased in wholesale quantities (< 10,000 ft). So we hired a local electrician to run the actual wires. It took two of them about 1.5 days to run everything. This was well worth the money, since the project would have taken many months to do in the evenings/on weekends with a toddler running around.
  
• I did all the wall terminations. Since they were punchdowns, it was easy and took one evening after work. The electricians would have charged me another half-day of labor.
  
• I did all the network rack work. This also took one evening after work.
  
• Do NOT buy electrical/networking equipment from a big box hardware store. Always go to a specialized retailer, like an electrician supply store. Their prices will be 1/20th that of the big box store, you won't have to have anything shipped, and their employees actually know what they are talking about. So if you're looking for something that you don't know the name of, you can usually describe it.
  
• Newer construction may have fire breaks/blocks/stops which prevent fire and gases from traveling up the inside of the walls. This makes fire move more slowly and give you more time to evacuate. However, it also means you might need to drill holes/patch walls in order to run wires vertically.
  
• Put in a service loop. If you ever need to re-terminate for any reason (like replacing a patch panel), it will give you extra cable to work with. Do the same thing inside your walls behind the wall plates, since you might have to do the same thing there as well.
  
• Buy networking gear that is rated for the same speed (i.e., gigabit). Your network will only be as fast as the slowest part of it.
  
• Watch out for network loops. This is really easy to do and will cause your router to crash or perform suboptimally. I spent >2 hours debugging on of these as a result of connecting my router to itself by way of both switches.

I'm putting this here because I don't want to flood the main sub with what I'm able to find. So here goes:

Headphones| Price
:--|:--
[ATH-M50x Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Audio-Technica-ATH-M50x-Professional-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR86/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499757226&sr=1-1&keywords=headphones) |$150 in cart. $250-$300 everywhere else I check
[Sennhieser HD 598 SR Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Sennheiser-HD-598-SR-Open-Back/dp/B06WRMZZ45/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499757356&sr=1-1&keywords=hd+598) |$109 Record low
[Audio-Technica ATH-M40x Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Audio-Technica-ATH-M40x-Professional-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR54/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499758834&sr=1-6&keywords=bose) |$180 - $38 = $141
[August EP650-Bluetooth headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/August-EP650-Bluetooth-Wireless-Headphones-Leather/dp/B00F54Y6GU/ref=sr_1_2?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499759484&sr=1-2&keywords=headphones)| Was $99, now $58
[August EP640 Bluetooth Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/August-EP640-Rechargeable-built-Smartphones/dp/B00MHOFR78/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499772544) |was $80, now $37
[Prime Day Bluedio T2S Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Bluedio-Shooting-Bluetooth-headphones-wireless/dp/B00Q2VIW9M/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499759635&sr=1-4&keywords=bluetooth) | Was $20, $21 in cart no tax
Prime Day Bluedio V Headphones | was $200, $140 in cart no tax
[AUSDOM ANC 7 Bluetooth noise cancelling] (https://www.amazon.ca/Cancelling-Headphones-AUSDOM-Bluetooth-Comfortable/dp/B01LZ7Q5R1/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499808109&sr=1-4&keywords=aptx) | was $100, now $50. Well reviewed!
[Sony Extra bass bluetooth headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Sony-MDRXB950B1-Extra-Headphone-Model/dp/B01N5UVZBP) | was $200, now $99


Earbuds| Price
:--|:--
[Aukey Arcs Bluetooth Sport] (https://www.amazon.ca/AUKEY-Bluetooth-Headphones-Microphone-Sweatproof/dp/B01EWUP4NQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499804815&sr=1-4&keywords=headphones)| was $24, now $14
[1MORE Triple Driver earbuds] (https://www.amazon.ca/1MORE-Headphones-Earphones-Compatible-Microphone/dp/B01KB9K9Z0/ref=lp_17037466011_1_4?srs=17037466011&ie=UTF8&qid=1499766067&sr=8-4&th=1) | Was $131, $106 in cart

Bluetooth misc| Price
:--|:--
[Anker Premium Stereo Bluetooth 4.0 Speaker ] (https://www.amazon.ca/Anker-Bluetooth-Subwoofers-Portable-Wireless/dp/B0107WH8Q4/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499800448&sr=1-6&keywords=subwoofer) | was $130, now $60
[Trond bluetooth receiver] (https://www.amazon.ca/TROND-Bluetooth-Receiver-Headphones-Speakers/dp/B01M9I0LSK/) | Was $25, now $20. I have one its awesome
[Altman Bluetooth Transmitter/receiver] (https://www.amazon.ca/ALTMAN-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Receiver-Wireless/dp/B06Y25PGBG/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499803431&sr=1-1&keywords=aptx) |was $43, now $26



CPU Coolers| Price
:--|:--
[CORSAIR Hydro Series H100i v2 Extreme ] (https://www.amazon.ca/CORSAIR-Extreme-Performance-Liquid-CW-9060025-WW/dp/B019EXSSBG/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499757440&sr=1-1&keywords=corsair) |$110. Historic [all time low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/CrDzK8/corsair-cpu-cooler-cw9060025ww)
[Corsair Hydro Series H115i Extreme Performance] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Extreme-Performance-Liquid-CW-9060027-WW/dp/B019955RNQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499756838&sr=1-3&keywords=corsair) |$155 (temporarily out of stock)
[MasterLiquid Pro 240 All-In-One] (https://www.amazon.ca/MasterLiquid-Technology-Chamber-MasterFan-Radiator/dp/B01E5XNP5Y/ref=lp_16927652011_1_24?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499766384&sr=1-24) | was $140, now $95 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/sqmxFT/cooler-master-cpu-cooler-mlyd24ma20mbr1)

PSU| Price
:--|:--
[Corsair CS650M] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Modular-Efficient-Supply-CS650M/dp/B00GH9NA2I/ref=sr_1_11?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499757999&sr=1-11&keywords=corsair) |$110. Not the lowest but okay
[EVGA SuperNOVA 550 G3] (https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-220-G3-0550-Y1/dp/B01LWTS2UL/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499759891&sr=1-1&keywords=evga)| Was $130, now $99 [historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/sMM323/evga-supernova-g3-550w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-220-g3-0550)

Cases| Price
:--|:--
[Corsair 780T full atx case] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Graphite-780T-Full-Tower/dp/B00LA6POK4) | $189 in cart. Not an [all time low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/sNJwrH/corsair-case-cc9011063ww) but not bad
[Corsair Carbide 400C white] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-CC-9011095-WW-Carbide-Compact-Mid-Tower/dp/B01F97W9ZM/ref=sr_1_12?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499813131&sr=1-12&keywords=corsair) |$105 in cart

HDD| Price
:--|:--
[Seagate Backup Plus Hub 8TB] (https://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-External-Desktop-Storage-STEL8000100/dp/B01HD6ZLQ6/ref=sr_1_3?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499758359&sr=1-3&keywords=hdd) | $270 - 51 = $219
[Seagate 4TB BarraCuda Pro ] (https://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-BarraCuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST4000DM006/dp/B01MSW4MNS/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499758359&sr=1-4&keywords=hdd)|$245-75 = $170 [Historic low!] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/qRtWGX/seagate-barracuda-pro-4tb-35-7200rpm-internal-hard-drive-st4000dm006)
[Seagate Backup Plus 4TB Portable] (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0196J43TE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1) | Was $160, now $135 [all time low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/NyQRsY/seagate-backup-plus-4tb-external-hard-drive-stdr4000100)
[Seagate Firecuda 2TB] (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01M1NHCZT/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)| was $126, now $85 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/zk7CmG/seagate-firecuda-2tb-25-5400rpm-internal-hard-drive-st2000lx001)
[Seagate Firecuda 1TB] (https://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-Firecuda-2-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000LX015/dp/B01LWRTRZU/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499767750&sr=1-1&keywords=ssd) | was $83, now $60 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/w6x9TW/seagate-firecuda-1tb-25-5400rpm-hybrid-internal-hard-drive-st1000lx015)

Input Devices| Price
:--|:--
[Logitech G13 input pad] (https://www.amazon.ca/Logitech-G13-Programmable-Gameboard-Display/dp/B001NEK2GE/ref=sr_1_21?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499761901&sr=1-21&keywords=board+games) | Was $75, now $55 [Historic Low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/jbvZxr/logitech-keyboard-920000946)
[Corsair Gaming K70 LUX RGB MX Brown] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Gaming-Mechanical-Keyboard-Backlit/dp/B01ER4B7YM/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499770080&) | was $180, now $160 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/34M323/corsair-k70-lux-rgb-wired-gaming-keyboard-ch-9101012-na)


Networking| Price
:--|:--
[NETGEAR Nighthawk X8 AC5300 Router] (https://www.amazon.ca/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-Tri-Band-Quad-Stream-R8500-100CNS/dp/B01A85Y9TE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499760240&sr=8-1&keywords=NETGEAR+Nighthawk+X8+AC5300)| was $499, now $290
[TP-Link AC3200 Tri band router] (https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Tri-Band-Beamforming-Archer-C3200/dp/B00YY3XSSA/ref=sr_1_3?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499760450&sr=1-3&keywords=modem) | Was $249, now $175
[Netgear 16-Port Gigabit Switch] (https://www.amazon.ca/Netgear-16-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Desktop/dp/B01AX8XHRQ/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499760948&sr=1-6&keywords=ethernet) | Was $106, now $75 in cart

MISC| Price
:--|:--
[Logitech C922x Webcam] (https://www.amazon.ca/Logitech-Stream-Webcam-Streaming-960-001176/dp/B01LXCDPPK/ref=sr_1_5?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499760799&sr=1-5&keywords=computer) | was $130, now $89. All time low
[Acer KG251Q 1080p Freesync monitor] (https://www.amazon.ca/Acer-KG251Q-bmiix-FREESYNC-Technology/dp/B06X6HJ1SF/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499762804&sr=1-6&keywords=monitor) | Was $230, now $170
[M9S PRO android tv box] (https://www.amazon.ca/Leelbox-M9S-Pro-Android-6-0/dp/B01MD0NZPK/ref=sr_1_2?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499767387) | Was $130, $98 in cart
[Cyberpower 600w UPS] (https://www.amazon.ca/CyberPower-CP1000PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N192/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499803529&sr=1-1&keywords=ups) | was $224, now $125


I'll try to keep tabs on everything but let me know if there are any errors or price updates. And as a side note, I'm actually getting downvotes for this? I can't see how there could possibly be a sane explanation for that.

 

EDIT: Updated 7:00pm EST!! Let me know if there's anything you see and I'll put it in here!

 

EDIT: I've put everything new as of Jan 11, 4:00pm in bold. Also, check this post on RedFlagDeals for a great big list of deal

 

EDIT: Its all over everyhone. Hope you snagged something cool beyond bitter disappointment this year!**


 

Yeah for sure.

Rackmount

Ubiquiti POE Switch

Unifi Security Gateway

Unifi Cloud Key Gen 2 Plus + NVR

Unifi G3 Pros

Unifi G3 Dome

Unifi AC LR

Unifi AC Lite

TP Link 5-Port Switch

Monoprice CAT6 1000ft

Cable Matter Blank 24 port Patch Cable

Nest Thermostat

Nest Doorbell

Nest Indoor Cam

Nest Sensors

Casetta Dimmers

Phillips Hue Starter Kit

Google Home Hub

Google Home Mini

Google Home

Chromecast Audio and Ultras (not pictured)

Labeler

$130 - Sennheiser HD 599 SE Special Edition, Black

$130 - Sennheiser HD 4.50 Special Edition, Bluetooth Wireless Headphone with Active Noise Cancellation, Black

​

$541 - HKC 34'' (3440x1440p) 21:9 Ultrawide 100hz Curved Freesync VA Panel 8ms GTG Rebranded Viotek GN34C, I think it's a Samsung CF791 Panel

$870 - Samsung LC34J791WTNXZA 34" 3440x1440 100Hz QLED 21:9 VA Freesync Thunderbolt 3

$115 - ViewSonic VX2257-MHD 22 Inch 75Hz 2ms 1080p TN

$650 - Samsung 32" QLED 1440p 144Hz HDR 600 WQHD Curved Gaming Monitor Freesync 2 VA

$315 - LG 27GL650F-B 27" 144hz IPS HDR 10 Freesync

$165 - AOPEN 24HC1QR Pbidpx 23.6" 1080p 144hz 1800R Curved FreeSync 4ms VA

$320 - AOPEN 32HC1QUR Pbidpx 31.5" (2560x1440) 144Hz 1800R Curved VA 4ms Freesync Ships within 1-3 months

$260 - ViewSonic VX3276-2K-MHD 32 Inch 1440p IPS Frameless

​

$270 - AMD Ryzen 7 2700X

$765 - AMD Ryzen Threadripper 2950X

​

$200 - Toshiba X300 8TB Hard Drive 7200 RPM 128MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5 Inch

$120 - Toshiba NAS N300 4TB NAS 3.5-Inch Internal Hard Drive- SATA 6 Gb/s 7200 RPM 128MB

$315 - Toshiba NAS N300 10TB NAS 3.5-Inch Internal Hard Drive- SATA 6 Gb/s 7200 RPM 256MB

$80 - Seagate FireCuda 2TB SSHD 2.5 Inch SATA

$57/96/186 - XPG GAMMIX 256/512GB/1TB S11 Pro 3D NAND PCIe NVMe Gen3x4 M.2 2280 SSD

$106 - Crucial P1 1TB 3D NAND NVMe PCIe M.2 SSD

$107 - Crucial BX500 960GB 3D NAND SATA 2.5-Inch Internal SSD

$242 - Crucial MX500 2TB 3D NAND SATA 2.5 Inch SSD

$104 - Toshiba Canvio Advance 4TB Portable External Hard Drive USB 3.0, White

$120 - WD Elements 6TB USB 3.0 External HDD Color Black WDBWLG0060HBK-NESN

$95 - Samsung 860 EVO 500GB 2.5" SATA III SSD

​

$81 - Ballistix Sport LT 16GB Kit (2x8GB) DDR4 3000 MT/s (PC4-24000) CL15 SR Gray

$137 - Ballistix Elite 16GB Kit (8GBx2) DDR4 3600 MT/s (PC4-28800) CL16 SR Ships within 1-2 months

$73 - Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (4x4GB) DDR4 3000 CL16 Black Non-prime, ships within 1-3 months

​

Other Components

$110 - DEEPCOOL Castle 240 RGB Liquid CPU Cooler Non-prime

$170 - Corsair H115i 280mm RGB Platinum AIO Liquid CPU Cooler

$35 - Deepcool RF120 3-Pack 120mm RGB PWM Fans with Fan Hub and Extension Non-prime

$805 - ZOTAC Gaming GeForce RTX 2080 Twin Fan 8GB

$198 - Gigabyte Z390 AORUS PRO ATX Motherboard

$120 - Corsair RM750x 80 Plus Gold Fully Modular ATX PSU CP-9020179-NA

$170 - Corsair HX850i High Performance 80+ Platinum Fully Modular ATX PSU

$60 - Corsair Fan Controller Commander Pro CL-9011110-WW

​

$33 - Logitech G602 Wireless Gaming Mouse

$40 - Logitech G403 Prodigy Wired Gaming Mouse

$50 - Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum RGB Tunable Gaming Mouse

$50 - Razer DeathAdder Elite: True 16,000 5G Optical Sensor

$64 - SteelSeries Rival 600 Gaming Mouse, 12,000 CPI TrueMove3+ Dual Optical Sensor

$55 - Logitech MX Master 2S Wireless Mouse, Graphite Ships within 1-2 months

$22 - NETGEAR 8-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch

$25 - HyperX Double Shot Black & White Pudding PBT Keycaps - 104 Mechanical Keycap Set for Cherry MX

$30 - Corsair mm350 Anti-Fray Cloth Gaming Mouse Pad Extended XL

$10.50 - SteelSeries QcK Gaming Surface - Medium Cloth

$23 - SteelSeries QcK Gaming Surface - Medium Hard

$135 - Razer Huntsman: Opto-Mechanical Switch

$55 - Logitech C920 Webcam HD Pro (960-000764)

​

$10.91 - AmazonBasics AAA High-Capacity Rechargeable Batteries (8-Pack) Pre-charged 850mAh

$12.48 - AmazonBasics AAA Rechargeable Batteries (12-Pack) 800mAh

$18.89 - AmazonBasics AA High-Capacity Rechargeable Batteries (8-Pack) Pre-charged 2400mAh

$1.49 - Oreos and other snacks :)

I wired every bedroom of my house with Cat-6 when I moved in. The office has multiple runs since I have multiple machines on opposite sides of the room. My basic rule is if it's a desktop pc, game console, or cable box, it should be wired. Anything else, let it be wireless.

I didn't want to run a TON of cable, so in most places I just have 1 active ethernet run to an 8 port gigabit switch (a second ethernet is there but not hooked up) and then run to the other devices. So my Xbox One, HTPC, Tivo, and TV are all hard wired to an 8 port switch and then the 8P is ran back to my 48 port core(overkill) switch.

The benefit is that everything is much more stable and less latency which is important when gaming. I can also add an additional access point anywhere that has weak WiFi coverage.

As for cost, I kept my stuff pretty cheap. I didn't do punch downs so as a result, mine doesn't look as clean.

1000ft Cat6 - $100 (http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=12792)

Ethernet Ends(rj45) - $~30 (bought locally don't use the monoprice ones, they're not great)

16P Gigabit Switch for "Core" duties - $70 (http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-SG1016-1000Mbps-17-3-inch-Rackmountable/dp/B002HAJQGA) - If you wanna go crazy and get a managed switch, check eBay for used HP Procurve stuff that's gigabit, looking closer to $200 probably though.

Ethernet Tools - $<50 - Need a crimper is all. You can buy a cheapo for $30 at most home improvement stores. If you do punch downs, you'll need a punch tool which will be $40 ish.

Miscallenous stuff such as low voltage outlets and wallplates will probably set you back around $5-10 per run.

So I guess a good ballpark figure would be around $300-$400 + your time if you did it on the cheap side. I have a feeling the neat and tidy way he did his setup probably was closer to 700-800.

TLDR: Expect to spend at least $300 to wire up a house with ethernet. You'll probably end up spending a lot more if you want it as clean as OP's.

List:

• ZTE F609 - GPON ONT from ISP, bridge mode and connected to pfsense.
  
  
• Mikrotik CSS326-24G-2S+RM - Super budget 24 ports switch with basic features and 2 SFP+ ports for only $139 brand new, you just can't beat that price.
  
  
• Ubiquiti Unifi AP AC Lite - To handle wireless devices in my house, to be honest I was very disappointed with the temp, it runs very hot and it's the reason why I didn't mount it on the ceiling. If I knew all Unifi AP runs this hot, I would've go with other brand. Many people have told me that it's fine, but mine reaches 70 degrees on idle (I live in place where it can reach almost 40 degrees) and if I mount it on the ceiling without proper ventilation, it probably can go up to 80-85 degrees and I've seen couple post on Ubqt forum that their AP melted due to the temperature.
  
  
• Plugable 7 port USB hub - I have an unused spare. It's kinda expensive if you compare it to other cheap chinese crap but it doesn't backfeed power and super reliable, the other one is currently used to power my Pi2 24/7 for almost 2 years without single issue.
  
  
• Deepcool cooler - Super old notebook cooler I found on my garage, currently use this to blow the hot air from Unifi AP until I finish my mod to mount 120mm fan on the ceiling so I can put my AP.
  
  
• PC - Spec is G4400, Asrock H110M-HDV, PNY SSD CS1311 80GB, 2 WD hard drive 2TB, 8GB RAM, and 2x single NIC Intel PT Pro. This thing run Windows 10 and pfsense under Hyper-V (not a good idea I know). Also act as my media and storage server. I'm very surprised that this thing pulls less than 20w on idle!
  
  
• Others - Old monitor I found in my garage, probably from Intel dual core era, some cheap landline phone, a bluetooth keyboard, and bluetooth mouse.
  
  All these only pull about 40w, my next upgrade is probably to invest in a decent rack so I can have a better cable management.

> Coax->Modem->Switch->14 cables in wall. Is this correct?

It has to go Coax->Modem->Router->Switch. Comcast will run Coax to your desired modem location, which in this case will be the wiring cabinet. If they can't, no big deal, you'll just need to use one of the installed Ethernet lines to connect the modem to the router or the router to the switch, depending on whether you put the router with the modem or in the wiring cabinet (I'd recommend the latter).

Since you're already thinking of getting UniFi access points (absolutely the right choice) you should get this router and this switch. It's only 16 ports, 18 if you count the SFPs, but you only have 14 lines anyway.

You'll terminate the cables at a patch panel. It's not hard to do, you just need something to strip the cable jacket and a 110 impact punch down tool to terminate the wires. You'll get a bunch of short patch cables to connect the switch to the patch panel, get the shortest length that'll reach. You don't want to skip the patch panel and put RJ45 plugs on the installed cables as it's much more difficult to do right than punch-down terminations and subjects the cables to more damage.

>Araknis Networks® 110 Series Unmanaged+ Gigabit Compact Switch (16 Port) $344.95

BWAHAHAHAHA

Yeah you can get an unmanaged switch for less than 20% of that: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-16-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B01AX8XHRQ/

Heck, you can get a decent managed switch for half of that: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-JGS516PE-100NAS-Rackmount-Lifetime-Protection/dp/B00GG1ACX2/

>Araknis Power Supply for Compact Network Switch - 48V $59.99

So really this is a $405 switch because literally every switch I've ever bought includes the damn power supply.

> Parts and supplies used to complete the project. (RJ45 ends, RJ45 keystones)$50.00

This... actually isn't a bad price. A good crimping tool can run you $25 to $50. A box of connectors is at lest $10 and keystone jacks are probably more.

>Labor $570 for 3 hours

(LAUGHS IN DEBT) What a friggin rip off.

I would rate this as pretty good "competent beginner" stuff. The hardest part is getting the connectors wired correctly. Once you've done that a few times (prepare to make some bad cables) it's actually very easy.

Not OP, but we've deployed Ubiquiti products in a few of our enterprise customers and it is running great. I am not sure how much you already know about networking, but I'll explain for anyone else reading.

First, some background to fully understand what it is you are trying to do. The thing that most consumers call "routers" are really three things: a router, a switch, and an access point. TLDR the router portion is the thing that actually moves traffic between machines, the switch extends how many physical ethernet ports you have, and the access point gives you wifi.

The Ubiquiti Access Points (UAP) are just access points. You will still need a router to route traffic, and your consumer one will work just fine for most people. If you are looking to get something more SOHO, Ubiquiti also makes their own router/firewall (check out USG, or ideally EdgeRouter). For all intents and purposes, it is a pretty good idea to separate the roles of your network (physical appliances for the router, firewall, wireless, etc...), and you can have as many UAP's as you'd like for wireless. The UAP's run off of Ubiquiti's 24V Power-over-Ethernet (POE), which can be provided via a POE injector or with a Ubiquiti Switch (either Unifi or EdgeMax). So for a basic network, you'll disable the wireless functionality on your consumer router, and plug a UAP into a port (obviously you'll need to pass it through the POE injector first). Rinse and repeat for however many UAP's you want, maybe another one on the other side of the house for example.

The UAP is pretty useless on its own, though. It needs a piece of software called the Unifi Controller. The software is free, and you can run it on Windows, Linux, or with Ubiquiti's appliance called the Cloud Key. Within Unifi Controller, you'll setup the UAP's; e.g. setting the visible wifi name (SSID), security, channels, etc... It isn't too complicated, the interface is really intutive and anyone who is even slightly technical could figure it out. The controller also serves another really important feature, which is zero-handoff. As long as the controller is running, your device will connect to the access point with the best signal. This is the seamless switching you asked about.

Ubiquiti also is focused on mesh networking, although we are generally pretty against that for businesses for reliability reasons. Of course, the exception to that is Cisco Meraki, which is a hybrid that will self-heal. If you lie and say you are an IT professional, you can get a free Meraki with a 3 year license. Just make sure that you follow the rules.

As a note, I would stick to the UAP AC's. They are the newer version and run great. For consumers, the UAP-AC-LITE is going to work fine. Obviously there is more to networking and wireless solutions than what I went over here, but this is the general gist of it.

> Poe to ethernet/5v usb

I didn't know this was a thing, that can hold me over until it's native.

sure https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01H37XQP8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm not sure it's worth it anymore. 10 Gbit/s Ether has gone down in price, and you can work with your existing structured cabling.

E.g. http://www.amazon.com/Netgear-ProSAFE-10-Gigabit-Ethernet-XS708E-100NES/dp/B00B46AEE6/ and Intel NICs are down to about 300 USD, or so.

If you have room for a switch, you can get one that is powered by power over ethernet. Ubiquiti makes one that even has POE pass through.

Ubiquiti US-8 Unifi Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZ32B1B

> but I do want a very reliable, modular, but manageable home network

Mah nig ... like-minded fellow.

 


> I will be subscribing to Comcast

I am so sorry for you :(

 

Ok, let's tackle wifi first as there is more to talk about here.

First off, yes, wireless access point (AP) is the correct name, very good, seriously, most people just call them "router" or thingamajig or whatever else.

Second, also very good on the idea to decouple everything from each other and to put multiple APs around the house. So many ask for a magical all-in-one device that can reach the moon with wifi and act as a NAS for a small country via one USB attached HDD.

So, the device: Ubiquiti UniFi

Why: it does what you want: the seamless handoff. Basically this allows you to roam around your house without dropping signal, as the APs know when to hand you off to the nearest one.

This is a feature that is rarely found in consumer grade gear, and works decently in even fewer devices. On the UniFi devices it is so good that it does not drop a VoIP call when transitioning.

There are various versions of the device, N is the normal standard, only on the 2.4Ghz band (use Wifi Analyzer on Android to check how your spectrum is), then there is Long Range, Pro, and even AC.

IMHO they are not worth the extra money, or rather, in your case where most devices are wired and with your internet speed, you would not have great benefits from faster wifi.

These devices are around or under $70 on Amazon.

> is there a simple way to have more than wireless access point

More than 1 or what are you after here?

If it's with the UniFi devices, you can add as many as you want, just need the ports on a switch.

 

Router: Unifi EdgeRouter Lite (ERL)

It's based on Vyatta, a Debian OS made for routers. It is super stable, a beast of a workhorse, and it has a ton of advanced features. IPsec VPN is probably the only advanced feature you will really care for (I assume).

It's a router and only a router, so no wifi and no switch. It has 3 ports, which should be plenty for your setup (naturally you will want a switch or two).

Is it overkill for your setup? Maybe, but for $100 it's (again IMHO) the best router that that kind of money can buy. People will tell you that it is not very user friendly, and it might have been in the past, or to users that are not a bit technical, but the new GUI is all you will need to use to create a basic home network setup.

Mikrotik is another manufacturer of prosumer / cheap but good enterprise level gear, but just spec wise, the ERL is superior.

 

I'll link you a few unmanaged 24 port switches. Let me know if you want managed switches instead.

The main difference between managed and unmanaged is that the former gives you more control over your network, and if you want to do some things, like fancy segmentation of the network (VLANs), or QoS within the LAN (unnecessary in the home really), then you will need a managed switch.

The Trend-Net TEG-S24Dg is the second cheapest 24 port switch (gig of course) that I would buy.

I have had an 8 port Trend-Net switch for about 5 years with 0 troubles. The one linked above is metal casing, which helps with cooling and rigidity, and is a small form factor, so you can place it on a desk if you need to, and it's not a huge rack-mounted 19" beast (it's 11 inches long).

The TP-Link TL-SG1024 is a full size, rack mountable switch. No clue how it performs, but a bunch of reviews say it is good.

As you can see the difference in price is very small ($100 vs $108). Pick the one you like best or another all together. :)

One thing I would say is that I would not go with a 10/100 switch, as switches limit your internal speed, which can far exceed your internet speeds. For example file transfers between the NAS and your devices. Gig is the way to go, I wish 10 Gb would be cheaper, as I would go for it myself.

 

> Cables & walls

If you are running cables, do it once, and do it well: run Cat 6a cables.

Cat 6a cables are shielded, which protects from EMI (interference), and can run 10Gb up to 100m. Be sure to get Cat 6 A, and not just Cat 6, as Cat 6 (without the A) is only rated for 10 Gb at 40 meters or less.

The question you might be asking: why not just go with Cat 5e, which does 1Gb speeds to 100 meters just fine and is cheaper?

Well, most Cat 5e that is sold around, is not shielded, and you want shielded to run in the walls due to electrical cables and grounding systems. Also, you are tearing holes in home walls. Even if you are there for only a few years, why save a few dollars when you can do the job right?

 

In addition, you will want a bunch of faceplates, amazon or monoprice will have loads for cheap, a bunch of RJ-45 ends (don't skimp to much on these, some are really shitty), and potentially a patch panel.

A patch panel is a thing where you terminate your cable runs into it, and it allows you to plug an ethernet cable into it.

Like this

Basically this makes it so that you don't have to move around the cables which could damage them over time, and gives you a nice organized way to label each run. That being said, it's not mandatory, it's just something nice.

 

I know this is a wall of text, but I think I should have covered all your points.

You probably have more questions, ask away :)

I'll try, if you have any questions or if I wasn't really clear on something, ask away and I'll try to explain it better.

A normal home network is quite simple, in order starting from your ISP's line coming into your house, you usually have a modem, a router, a switch and an access point. Most consumer routers are actually a combo router-switch-access point all in one. They provide you a few ports for wired connection and the wifi in a single convenient unit. What you can also do is split up this combo unit to be able to place each device in a better location. If you have your modem in the basement, putting the router next to it makes sense, but putting the access point there often means it will be completely unusable on the second floor. Don't be afraid, separate unit aren't really more complex, you just need to wire them together. I'll recommend a few unit throughout, but feel free to ask for a second opinion!

Personally, after witnessing the extreme difference in quality between home all-in-one routers and dedicated separate unit, I will strongly recommend you go with a separate unit setup. Ubiquiti makes super great hardware that won't cost you much more than a combo but will give you much more performance. Here are the recommended devices, I'll explain the setup right after :

• Router : Ubiquiti Edgerouter X
  
• Switch : TP-Link Gigabit switch (8 port / 16 port / 24 port)
  
• Access point : Ubiquiti Unifi AP AC Lite
  
  So, your provider will supply you with a modem (or you will buy your own) and plug that directly in the DSL/Cable/Fiber line that comes from outside. Then, you will plug the router in the modem. The router will allow all the devices in your home to communicate with the internet. In the router, you will plug the switch. In the switch, you can plug all the lines that are going through your house. You can also plug several switches in the router, or a switch in another switch (example : a switch in the office plugged into a line that goes to the second floor, a switch on the second floor, that will work). Also plugged in the switch : the access point. You can plug it (or them if you buy more than one) directly in the switch, or at the end of a long line that goes where you want the access point to be. For a two stories house, you might get good result by having a central AP on the first floor, or an AP on each floor, depending on construction, materials and interference.
  
  So now, we have the classic modem > router > switch > AP, using separate devices for greater flexibility and performance. Once it's all plugged in, time to set it up. For the router, simple, follow the wizard. For the switch, these switches are plug and play, no config needed. For the AP (or APs), install the software on your PC, follow the wizard, done! The controller software is used to configure the APs, but is not needed for the APs to work. The APs, once they get their config from the software, are completely standalone and independent, you can turn the PC off without issues.
  
  Hope this answers your questions, as I said, ask anything that wasn't answered and I'll try to explain it.

Seconded. What they are doing is totally egregious.

You could run fiber never mind Ethernet for what they are quoting you.

Here's a kit list of what I would buy if I was treating myself to a fancy home setup directly related to their list.

ABR4500 / Netgear AC1750 @ $110

OR

Replace the ABR4500 & XWS2510 with

Netgear Orbi AC Mesh system, currently $344.99 on Amazon.

At this point you may as well stick with the same brand so to replace the AGS1016 go for;

Netgear 16 port Gigabit POE managed switch, currently $159.99 on Amazon.

Replace AGS1008M with;

Netgear 8 port Gigabit POE Managed switch, currently $79.99.

Total cost = $584.97 vs $2229.92

You could upgrade all of that hardware to Ubiquiti for Small business grade hardware. Based on what you've said I'd find a local small business networking supplier and have them quote you a cost for the above inc installation and support. Their time should be the most expensive item on the list NOT the hardware.

Good luck!

Yes, you use a switch. https://www.amazon.com/D-Link-5-Port-Unmanaged-Gigabit-GO-SW-5G/dp/B008PC1FYK/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1519214948&sr=1-6&keywords=gigabit+switch

Unmanaged switches just connect devices.

Managed switches can do more; like monitor performance (via SNMP), create VLANs, aggregate multiple ports into a bonded interface, provide electricity to run other devices (power over Ethernet, or PoE) prioritise traffic via QoS, etc.

The managed version of your switch would be something like the GS108E, GS108T [can trunk/aggregate ports] or GS108PE [can provide PoE].

If you don't need any of the managed functions, an unmanaged switch is fine.

Now we just need more consumer 10gbe (multi gig) switches (besides the Asus and both Netgears)

Asus

Netgear 1

Netgear 2

Note these are all variants of 8x 1gbe + 2x 10gbe ports, with the Netgear gaming version having RGB of course.

Would like to see some options with at least 4x 10gbe along with the 8x 1gbe ports for slower devices.

I'm in Dallas, but I know you can get the US-8 same day from Amazon (so tomorrow, Sunday). If you need it tonight, sorry I don't have a spare.

US-8: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-US-8-Unifi-Switch/dp/B01MZ32B1B/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1521941683&sr=8-2&keywords=unifi+switch

US-8-150W(PoE): https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Managed-Gigabit-US-8-150W/dp/B01DKXT4CI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521941683&sr=8-3&keywords=unifi+switch

> MikroTik Cloud Smart Switch

Just a guess:

https://www.amazon.com/Mikrotik-CSS326-24G-2S-RM-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B0723DT6MN

You need a switch. What switch depends on your needs. If you don't care about VLANs and other managed features then a cheap dumb switch will do fine. Something like this would do. If you need more features then the price goes up. The switch that your friend recommended would do fine, but it is more expensive because it supports PoE. If you don't need PoE you can get cheaper managed switches.

You don't have to do top tier everything for a homelab.

Most people will never need managed switches, much less Cisco branded stuff. TP-Link makes competent and reasonably priced dumb switches.

For the router, I used to run pfSense on a custom PC build (~$300 about 6 years ago) but I'm already familiar with enterprise router settings and found all the features I could want in a consumer grade Asus router. At the end of the day, port forwarding, WiFi and OpenVPN are everything I'd ever want it to do. I can offload any heavy lifting or advanced features to my server.

If you're not looking to be super fancy, here's a simple homelab setup:

• Asus AC86U Router: $170.14
  
• 24 port TP-Link Switch: $89.99
  
• 8 port TP-Link Switch: $19.99
  
• 2 Bay Synology Diskstation: $166.87
  
• Dell PowerEdge R710 Server: $209.95
  
  You can swap up or down based on needs but the router does all the basic stuff most people will need it to do. The 24 port switch should be more than enough as the primary switch for most people. The 8 port switch is great for secondary locations. The diskstation can handle your backups and cloud storage and is a nice balance of convenience and price. The R710 server can handle Plex, NAS duties and probably some light duty VMs.
  
  The big add-on expense will be the hard drives, of course. You could probably get by shucking the 10TB easystore drives to save a bit.
  
  I use a custom built server (Xeon E3-1231 v3 @ 3.4GHz, 16 GB RAM, built around 2012 and upgraded the CPU a few years ago) and have never owned a R710 myself, so I can't say much on the actual limits of what you can do with it. That said, I'm suddenly really tempted to grab a R710 to use as network storage because I've reached the limit of my current server. The biggest weakness I see in the R710 is the CPU isn't too beefy but its still decent given the sheer number of (8)cores/(16)threads. Plex and less demanding game servers are probably the limit of what it can handle but it should easily handle a number of less demanding VMs.
  
  Anyways, as a starter setup, this should more than satisfy most people.

• Definitely setup a separate VLAN and SSID for guests.
  
• If you're getting PoE cameras, make sure the cameras and Ubuiqiti switch you get are 802.3af complaint. I believe some Ubiquiti products are 24v passive PoE, which is basically "always on" and will fry devices that are not compatible. I opted for the Netgear switch, but only because it was on sale.
  
• Also, I would highly recommend putting all your IP cameras in a DENY/DENY zone. I have Amcrest cameras and they're constantly trying to dial out to some AWS IPs, so they're in a DENY/DENY zone and drops all outgoing traffic.
  
  name WAN_OUT {
  default-action accept
  description "Out to WAN"
  enable-default-log
  rule 10 {
  action drop
  description "Block Amcrest Camera"
  log enable
  protocol all
  source {
  address 10.10.2.50-10.10.2.59
  }
  }
  }
  
• To access the cameras behind the firewall, I have the ERL running DDNS and an OpenVPN server. As long as I'm VPNed in, I'm good.
  
• No experience with it, but Ubiquiti sells a NVR.

You can do it in Windows but, I don't recommend it as it can be very temperamental. i would recommend getting this, I've personally used it with very good results. This video explains how to make the above router operate most effectively.

Okay, I've read through the other comments and feel I still have something to contribute as I've just set this up for my parents and plan to run it at my place some time in the future.

• PoE Switch - If you want to use a PoE switch, you have to get the PRO APs, the LITE and LR only support passive PoE. I was lucky enough to have inherited a Cisco SG300-10 802.3at PoE+ Switch from my former employer when they shut down. It's very convenient to use, but not a necessity. The PoE Injectors that come with APs have a nice mounting plate so that you can attach them to the wall/shelf/what-have-you. If you're dead-set on using PoE, Netgear has some decent, inexpensive offerings. 8-port PoE without VLANs $80, 8-port PoE with VLANs $100. If you're running out of outlets, and are on a budget, I would suggest buying a bigger power strip (Belkin makes a nice one I've used in a lot of applications) (or, if you're moving to rack mount, a PDU plugged into a UPS)
  
  
  
  
• Patch Panel - For flexibility, what you'll want to look for is a keystone panel and then populate it with your own jacks as needed. (If you want to throw in Coax you can, and if you want/need a phone jack in there, just use another CAT5E)
  
  
• Rack - Based on what you said, I think you are looking for something like this? You could also look at making a lack rack, if you're into DIY.
  
  
• Additional thoughts - If you are sharing the internet connection with your tenants in the basement, you may want to look at using a "proper" firewall that can VLAN them onto their own subnet, and keep them out of your internal network (for security reasons). When I set up my parent's network, I put all of the "Internet of Things" devices (thermostat, sprinkler controller, solar monitor, etc) on their own subnet and VLAN because they are something that I have very little control of, and I see as being a big network risk. Just my $0.02
  
  Let me know if any of this didn't make sense to you.
  
  Cheers!
  
  Edit: additions in bold above

Ubiquiti has a full line of hardware for any use case, including rack mountable switches

I have this Mikrotik cloud switchwith two 10gb sfp+ uplinks and it works great for me because I only need 10gb links between my ESXI host and Desktop. Got it for 140 off amazon.

Cheap 8-port netgear switch & 5-port.

$22 - NETGEAR 8-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch (GS308)
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07PFYM5MZ/

$17 - 5 port:
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00QR6XFHQ/?th=1

If your devices only run at gigabit speeds, 10Gb/s won't do anything to help you.

If you do end up getting a 10Gb/s capable Nas and connect it to a 10G switch then you will only see an improvement on your gigabit devices only if multiple devices are hitting the nas at once.

Maybe something to try if you want the flexibility but don't want to spend too much: https://www.amazon.com/XG-U2008-Unmanaged-2-Port-8-Port-Gigabit/dp/B01LZMM7ZO This is relatively cheap for a 10G switch, has two 10G ports and 8 gigabit ports, meaning that you'd have the flexibility to add a 10G desktop as well as a NAS (or similar) to have very fast file transfers between a PC and a NAS. It is unmanaged though, so if you want to do anything fancy with VLANs or subnets, you are out of luck.

The only "affordable" option I know of is this Asus 10Gbe switch:

https://www.amazon.com/XG-U2008-Unmanaged-2-Port-8-Port-Gigabit/dp/B01LZMM7ZO

Couple of serious issues with it though.

First, it is $250. 10x more than the price of an equivalent 1Gbe switch.

Second, it only has two 10Gbe ports. That means you can connect two devices on your network as 10Gbe. The rest of your network is still only 1Gbe.

I set up a 10 Gbps backbone for my home network this year, with 3 10 gig devices connected to it. FreeNAS server, unRAID server, and one Windows desktop. I don't use pfsense, so you should double-check that pfsense includes drivers for the cards you pick, or you could be in for some pain.

While you can achieve 10 Gbps over quality copper network cables, I went with fiber optic. Fiber optic networking has been around for a long time in many forms, so there are a lot of standards. There are two main types of cable. Multi mode and single mode. This cable type must match the fiber optic transceivers you use on each end. Then there are different qualities of cable. OS1, OS2 for single mode, and OM1, OM2, OM3, OM4 for multi mode. Higher numbers indicate better cable quality. Read up on the limitations of each. Finally there are a bunch of different connector types. LC is the most common from what I have seen. There are actually two kinds of LC, and one of them has an angled end, but those are a lot less common than ends that are cut off at 90 degrees. I'm not really clear on why two kinds exist.

​

ANYWAY these are what I bought and they all work fine together:

8x transceiver: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Finisar-FTLX8571D3BNL-10GB-SFP-SR-850nm-Transceiver/173943155751?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

2x NIC card: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mellanox-MHZH29-XTR-ConnectX-2-VPI-Standard-Profile-Network-Adapter/333292618107?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

1x NIC card: https://www.ebay.com/itm/MHZH29-XTR-MELLANOX-CONNECTX-2-VPI-DUAL-PORT-NETWORK-ADAPTER-CARD/223585259766?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

1x switch: http://amzn.com/B0723DT6MN

1x switch: http://amzn.com/B07LFKGP1L

1x long armored cable (Multimode, LC-LC duplex, OM3): http://amzn.com/B07JHKKCVY

Plus a bunch of different length patch cords (Multimode, LC-LC duplex, OM3) from fs.com

​

I specifically chose new Mikrotik switches as opposed to buying older used enterprise switches because the price difference isn't that great, and the Mikrotik switches are fanless.

Saved a boatload of money buying used NICs, and also quite a bit buying used fiber optic transceivers. New 10 GBE transceivers can easily run $20+ each, and new NICs can easily be $100+ USD each.

​

Total cost was still a few hundred USD, but that is a LOT lower than it could have been!

These are decent. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076HZFY3F

Pretty much any name brand switch will work, so long as it supports 802.3af for PoE.

Thanks...

Okay, the easiest and cheapest way of doing this is:

• Get a switch like this one https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-8-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B07PFYM5MZ/
  
  
• Get a network tool kit https://www.amazon.com/Network-Maintenance-Portable-Crimper-Connectors/dp/B0756SN86D/
  
  
• Get some Cat6 RJ45 connectors https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-100-PACK-Connector-Connectors-Transparent/dp/B01K9Z4FT2/
  
  
  What you need to do is:
  
  
• Disconnect all the blue cables from that panel
  
  
• Wire them up with the RJ45 connectors learn how to do that here https://youtu.be/rV5vgk2Mt3Iand here https://www.warehousecables.com/landing/how-to-make-a-cat6-patch-cable.php
  
  
• Check the wiring on the wall sockets, that it matches the pinout from https://www.warehousecables.com/landing/how-to-make-a-cat6-patch-cable.php
  
  
• Connect the blue cables and also the grey cable to the switch, and you should be good to go.
  
  
  Note, you may need to get new wall sockets, but I could suggest to do one test cable first and then run a speedtest using speedtest.ui.com to see if you get the same as your internet provider. One other thing to note, is that I'm not sure that Frontier Communications device is a router and can handle all the connections, you may need to get a router also.

OP, I second that. Those little Netgears are small, silent, sturdy, and reliable. And available for $15 at the moment.

There are two reasons you could say it slows down the connection:

1. You could get a switch that only supports 100Mbps instead of 1Gbps. But if it's from a name brand and it says “gigabit” (like the Netgear above), you should be fine.
   
2. That port in the wall is a 1Gbps bottleneck. If you plug in four devices via a switch, they'll be sharing that 1Gbps between them. But you'd have to be doing a lot to hit that limit.
   
   \ In most UW locations. Some with old wiring are stuck at 100Mbps or less for now. Some fancy labs and stuff have 10Gbps.

You can have a pair of compute nodes and a storage node communicating over 40GbE or 40GT/s Infiniband for about $450.

If you need to scale to the point where you have switching hardware, it does get a bit pricier, but 10GbE is not impossibly expensive.

So when I originally moved in to my house last year, I set things up in a very temporary setup that became more permanent than I was hoping. I also had to bring another box home from my office when we moved locations and we no longer had a dedicated internet connection so I couldn't expose anything directly to the internet.

I've been looking at setups from everyone for a while now, getting ideas of what I needed and I finally settled on the following:

• NavePoint 4ft Open Frame 19" 22U 4-Post Network Server - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A6JQO4A
  
• TP-Link 24-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BU0EKW
  
• Keystone panel - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F8NLZ4Z
  
• 2U shelf - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008X3JHJQ
  
• 1U shelf - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A6JQYDG
  
• Rosewill 4U case (8 bay) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0055EV30W
  
• Rosewill 4U case (6 bay) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07957B2VF
  
• 80mm quieter fans - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NTUJZ36
  
• 1U PDU - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075TQS7XC
  
• 1U Blank - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0779M2D96
  
• Velcro! - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1Y5O6
  
• POE injectors - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NRF9GQO
  
  I don't intend on purchasing full sized rack mount servers as I just use desktop class hardware for the most part but I took the two systems that I had in desktop cases and put them in the Rosewill cases that I've seen a lot of people use and a coworker recently suggested them as well as he recent did a rack setup. Since I don't need full size servers, I decided to go with a 4 post "network" rack as I don't really need the extra depth. I'm just using a 1U blank to help stabilize the servers in the rack so they're not just hanging from the front.
  
  If anyone is looking to get some of the same components, I would say that the 1U shelves that I bought don't really work that well as I had to get creative with the brackets to make them work and they do extend out the back a bit but I knew they would do that when I purchased them, I just didn't realize I would have to flip around some brackets to make it work.
  
  My network is really basic so I went with a 24 port unmanaged gigabit switch. I did have to get some POE injectors for my 3 WAPs as I did have a 8 port switch that had built in POE before but I knew that 8 ports wasn't going to cut it and I wanted to go with a rack mount switch.
  
  Future plans are to replace the 3 regular PSUs with something rack mountable. Right now I have one PSU for each box and then the 3rd is for all of the network equipment. I'd also like to get a KVM but for right now I have HDMI cables ran to the side where I can easily switch them out and the keyboard I only plug into the front panels if I need it.

Sure. Here's what I could pull from my orders and searching around. This is most of my gear. Not really "homelab" stuff. Have a crap ton of ethernet running around the house.

• Main router: ASUS RT-AC3100: https://www.amazon.ca/Asus-RT-AC3100-Dual-Band-Wi-Fi-Router/dp/B01707HPKS
  
• Two APs on the other levels of the house: ASUS RT-AC86U: https://www.amazon.ca/Asus-RT-AC86U-Dual-Wireless-Router/dp/B0752FD3XJ
  
• Switch: TP-Link TL-SG1024DE 24-Port Gigabit: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00CUG8ESM
  
• UPS: APC Back-UPS Pro 1500VA: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B003Y24DEU
  
• Synology DS412+: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B007JLE84C
  
• Synology DS1618+: https://www.amazon.ca/Synology-Bay-NAS-DiskStation-Diskless/dp/B07CR8RZYY
  
• Epson V550 Scanner: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00E1O74SW
  
• Black and White Laser Printer: Samsung ML-2851ND: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000XZ1LJG
  
• Colour Laser Printer: Samsung CLP-415N: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Electronics-CLP-415NW-Wireless-Printer/dp/B008HSIW20

PM me a mailing address. I have one of these that I'm not using. I'll try to get it in the mail tomorrow.

The eero stuff won't do POE, so you would have to use a POE injector for that side of the wire:

https://www.amazon.com/BV-Tech-Single-Gigabit-Ethernet-Injector/dp/B00B4H00EO/

Run your CAT6 through this and it will generate the power.

Then, on the camera end of the wire, you can use a POE splitter:

https://www.amazon.com/ethernet-Splitter-Compliant-Surveillance-ipolex/dp/B078LYW6D7

Be careful and watch your voltages!! If you set your POE to 12V and plug it into a 5V cam, expect to buy a new cam.

The POE theory is very simple: CAT cable has four pairs of wire but uses only two pairs for Ethernet. POE uses the other two for power. Industry standard says the power on the wire is 48 volts DC, so this has to be regulated down to the proper voltage at the device end. If your equipment doesn't support POE, you can add it by using these injectors and splitters. In a more traditional system, you would use a POE switch to supply the power.

Edit: Actually, if you're running both cameras to the same place, a switch might still make sense:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-SG1005P-Gigabit-Ethernet-compliant/dp/B076HZFY3F/

Ok, first off thanks for the model number! So many folks leave that off. So your router/switch can kick out 1000mbps over Ethernet, so a switch to match would be ideal. You don't need a managed one so you’re looking at some real cheap, but great options. Here are two good options.

​

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged-1000Mbps/dp/B00KFD0SMC

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-5-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B07S98YLHM/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_147_img_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ENKY6TYY6ZCQ2A6Z0S4M

Why do you want a CLI and not a web console?

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-8-Port-Gigabit-Managed-TL-SG108PE/dp/B01BW0AD1W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1503085221&sr=8-3&keywords=8+port+managed+switch+poe

>PoE

>VLAN, QoS, IGMP Snooping, rate limiting and traffic monitoring

This is pretty much all the features you would expect out of a managed switch minus link aggregation. But you're not really doing that with your intel NUCs are you?

Do you really need PoE with intel NUCs? These are not PoE powered devices...

Why do you have so many NUCs anyway? What did you put on them? This is a very strange setup and request.

Check out Ubiquiti, you can ask what people think over on that subreddit, but the US-16-150W will do PoE on all 16 ports, but limited by the power draw. It provides 802.af/at and 24v on in one package, also supports VLANs and the other usual stuff.

Just slightly over your budget but has some nice features.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/UBIQUITI-US-16-150W-Port-UniFi-Switch/dp/B01E46ATQ0/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1504555223&sr=8-14&keywords=ubiquiti

Can always use one of these, I use them for my pi's DSLRKIT Active PoE Splitter Power Over Ethernet 48V to 5V 2.4A Micro USB Plug for Raspberry Pi B/B+/2/3 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01H37XQP8/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_HhsFybSW8SK6R

LinkIt Smart 7688 - $12-15 this one looks pretty good (I am ordering one right now)

NanoPi M1 - $13

Orange Pi One H3 - $10

ENC28J60 like stated before, but this one seem to require a dedicated AVR microcontroller.

As for power over Ethernet the best alternative I found sofar is a PoE 5v converter for around $10. There are however 2 wire pairs leftover in the cable when using 100Mbit and possible to carry power over those. This device for $2 might work for that.

Also here is some reading for bit-banging without magnetics (and proves it's pretty much unusable) by /u/Cnlohr.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01H37XQP8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_MrYjDbBT5QJ2E

Mikrotik has 24 gig ports and 2 sFp+ super cheap quiet and low power.
https://www.amazon.com/Mikrotik-CSS326-24G-2S-RM-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B0723DT6MN/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1517584597&sr=8-12&keywords=mikrotik

Edit:spelling and link

I agree with /u/washu_k, just use whatever router you like and add a switch.

A 5-port Gigabit switch is currently $11.99 on Amazon. An 8-port one is $20.99.

Sure, a Layer 3 switch, that’s actually doing IP routing in hardware, could impact IGMP. That’s not the little unmanaged switches you buy for $3/port though.

The "Technicolor tc8717t" is also a simple NAT/router.

If your service is faster than 100Mbit, you'll want a "Gigabit Ethernet switch" for your room.

Get a 5 port ethernet gigabit switch, plug it into the router, then plug the wifi booster and your pc into the switch.

For those that are curious:

• The stack on the far left contains six Orange Pi Zero's on top and one Orange Pi Zero Plus on the bottom.
  
• To the right of the stack is a Raspberry Pi 3.
  
• In the center is an Orange Pi PC 2.
  
• On the far right are two Rock64's. The one on top is the 2GB model, and the one on the bottom is a 4GB model. (I have one more 2GB model on order.)
  
• In the back left is an iSelector 10-port charging station. (I went with this one because it advertised that it could put out 2.4A on all 10 ports.)
  
• In the back right is a MediaSonic ProRaid 2-bay SATA enclosure, with two Seagate 2TB Barracudas loaded into it.
  
• On the bottom is a TP-Link 24-port gigabit switch. (It's mounted vertically because I made the mistake of mounting it in the front of the rack; if I had mounted it the right way, the door would have pushed against the ends of the cables and probably caused them to exceed their MBR. One of these days I'll move it to the back of the rack.)
  
  What am I using them for?
  
  
• All of the Orange Pis, the Raspberry Pi, and the 2GB Rock64 board are running a program to search for a solution to the Magic Square of Squares problem. It's a custom program written in C, so it doesn't need much memory or disk space; mainly what it needs is processor power. The Orange Pis are cheap, which makes them a good fit for this.
  
• The 2GB Rock64 is also running a bot to search for cut-and-paste moves on Wikipedia.
  
• The 4GB Rock64 is going to be my new web server. (Right above it, just out the frame, is an HP ProLiant DL140 G1 that this board will be replacing. The HP is probably more powerful, but it's loud and it sucks up more electricity than the Rock64 does.) I picked this one because it supports USB3, it has gigabit ethernet, it has 4GB of ram (which is the same as the HP that this will be replacing), and it didn't cost an arm and a leg.
  
• The other 2GB Rock64 (when it comes) will be used to network share a 4TB backup drive. (Right now, the drive is hooked up to a VM on another server.)
  
• All of these boards are running Armbian, except for the Raspberry Pi (which is running their Debian distro).

I've used these:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I01Z1M2

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YJ2QICO

4 are outdoor and PoE using this switch:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CFATT2

One is indoor and wireless:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0145OQXCK

I have 4 meg ACS in Fairbanks:

Nothing streaming:

Ping statistics for 204.17.140.123: (google.com)
Packets: Sent = 32, Received = 32, Lost = 0 (0% l
Approximate round trip times in milli-seconds:
Minimum = 49ms, Maximum = 169ms, Average = 69ms

Streaming a 720p youtube video:

Ping statistics for 204.17.140.123:
Packets: Sent = 50, Received = 50, Lost = 0 (0% los
Approximate round trip times in milli-seconds:
Minimum = 56ms, Maximum = 331ms, Average = 146ms

Last 31 days between my two computers' utorrents I have 100 GB transferred this month.

Depending on your needs, you can actually get a load-balancing router and get one of each service and have them run in tandem or as a failover.

Personally, I'd go with a simple dumb switch and a really nice access point

I think this fits your budget, just don't forget to get a couple of patch cables as well.

actually, the above is a lie, I'd personally go with a hAP ac .. and I have, it's just it's not for everyone as it can be a little complicated, .. but the other access point I mentioned above is good too.

Unless you're specifically looking to learn Cisco IOS, none of those switches are worth a damned thing since they're 100Mbps (discounting the uplinks)

I've seen this TP-Link model linked a few times - I've no personal experience with it, but it's got the right boxes ticked as far as having basic management and lots of GbE. I don't know about the throughput or packet volume it can handle but it should certainly be able to handle a starter homelab.

/u/Qui_Gon_Gin listen to this guy. I have my network setup exactly like this. You'll have to learn about VLANS to do it, but you can get a managed switch like this, or you could get a more robust one like this or like this.

You could get this 16 port tp-link gigabit switch.

TP-Link 16-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch | Plug and Play | Metal | Rackmount | Fanless | Limited Lifetime (TL-SG1016) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002HAJQGA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hVtYBb8R3TKVQ

I'll preface this by saying i'm still very basic to networking so someone correct me if i'm wrong please.

It sounds like you're in need of a switch (unmanaged if you want to plug it in and not configure anything). Here are a couple I found with a quick google search (I have no opinion on either of these, they were just the first thing that came up with a google search.

Rackmount: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Rackmount-TL-SG1016/dp/B002HAJQGA

Desktop: https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-16-Port-Unmanaged-GREENnet-TEG-S16DG/dp/B0044GJ516

I believe the setup for this would be the run from the router coming into the closet, plugged into maybe port 16 of the switch, then ports 1 through 12 are plugged into the front of the patch panel, and the cable runs to each room are punched into the back of the patch panel.

Again, i'm still basically brand new at this, so please someone tell me if this is wrong.

Patch Panels/Cable Management? www.allentelproducts.com
Rack Mounted Powerstrip Audio/Video? Furman PLC-8.
Surge suppressor? Panamax MD2 2 Outlet Direct Plug
Cheap Switch? TP Link 16 porter, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002HAJQGA/

> One 24 port switch would be the best way. But in reality it won't make much difference in any case unless those switches are

24 port switch will cost more than the current estimated cost, I'm guessing OP is attempting to save money.

Edit: However, I did Amazon a 24 port switch and came up with this Which would be an absolute perfect solution for your question.

I just had my house wired up with Cat6 last week. I'm not an expert but I have some basic networking knowledge.

I purchased the following items:

• 12U Wall Mount rack: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NOTY0OG)
  
• 24-Port Patch Panel: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0072K1OWY/
  
• 24-Port Gigabit Switch: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Rackmount-TL-SG1024/dp/B003BU0EKW/
  
• 1-1.5 feet Cat6 cables for connecting patch panel to switch
  
• UPS/PDU
  
  I would also figure out how many cable drops per room you want.
  
  For me, I had 4 drops in the living room, 4 in the loft, 2 in the guest bedroom, 2 in master bedroom, and 4 in home office (16 total).

PoE switches are cheap.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CFATT2

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0152WZRBM/

I've used this TP-LINK 8port/4portPOE switch with good results, usually with 2-4 dahua 2-3mp cameras.

it's just a couple bucks more than the injector you linked.. though less ports.

> 4 are outdoor and PoE using this switch:
>
> https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CFATT2

Just a heads up for anyonelooking for this switch, this is a fast ethernet switch. That is, it only goes up to 100Mbps and not gigabit.

This may be important if you are looking for an all-in-one switch for your home network as well as your cameras.

There is a newer version of the above switch that supports PoE and gigabit:

https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Desktop-TL-SG1008P/dp/B00BP0SSAS/ref=dp_ob_title_ce?dpID=41EWV2w2eQL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail&th=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003CFATT2?cache=80ca73146ad0cabec159877e8dfebfc6&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1404269283&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

I have Cable and DSL and I use both via one of these:

TP-Link Load Balancing Router

In the one I have, I can designate what computer or device connects to what ISP. I don't know if it will do the job he is wanting, but may be worth a look. And for the price its a great wired-only router. I use a second wireless router (with DHCP disabled) as a wifi access point.

I've done setups at businesses using two internet connections; usually it's set up for redundancy so you have one that's primary and a slower one that's a different company that's the fallback. I've also set them up for bandwidth sharing; in that arrangement there are a few different options too.

It's not bad. Something like this TP Link load balancer might be a good option since it's a dedicated device and designed for up to four WAN ports. Never used it before so I'd suggest poking around to see how hard it is to configure.

You might want to look into an inexpensive bonded router such as this:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Internal-Universal-Broadband-TL-R470T/dp/B005SYQBN8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498243192&sr=8-1&keywords=TP-Link+TL-R470T%2B

Yes. Crude drawing: http://i.imgur.com/mgT4s2m.jpg

Buy a cheap switch locally or online......all you need is a 2 port, but the minimum is usually 4-5 for what you'll find in stores. Just make sure its a gigabit switch (1000mbps not 100mbps)

http://www.amazon.com/D-Link-5-Port-Unmanaged-Gigabit-Switch/dp/B008PC1FYK?ie=UTF8&keywords=gb%20switch&qid=1464616538&ref_=sr_1_5&sr=8-5

How is $14 not cheap?

>Old router:

>https://www.amazon.com/Linksys-WRT120N-Wireless-N-Home-Router/dp/B0028N6VNW

With this router, I was able to connect my Comcast cable modem Ethernet cable to it, and then use an additional ethernet to connect the router to my PC. This provided my house with Wi-Fi and internet to my PC.


This is what I bought as a replacement:

>https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WA901ND-Wireless-450Mbps-Repeater/dp/B002YETVXC

>Only has one ethernet port, so I have no way of connecting both from the cable modem and to my PC like I did with my previous router.

Dad also had this switch lying around:

>https://www.amazon.com/D-Link-5-Port-Unmanaged-Gigabit-GO-SW-5G/dp/B008PC1FYK/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1517712757&sr=1-3&keywords=dlink+switch

As of right now, I have everything plugged into the switch via multiple ethernet cables:

Comcast cable modem - > switch

switch - > into PC

switch - > into tp-link

This gives my PC internet, and allows me to connect other devices to the Wi-Fi.

However, once on the wi-fi, I can only access the tp-link settings menus via tplinkap.net (there I can change the operating mode of the device from AP, Client, Bridge, Repeater and Multi-SSID).

Is there anyway I can make this work, or did I fuck up and buy the completely wrong thing?

I think you are saying that the router has no more wired ports left. If all you need is wired ports, you can get a small switch. This is a device that will basically turn one of the ports into 4 more. here is a link: switch on amazon

D-Link 5-Port Unmanaged Gigabit Switch (GO-SW-5G) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008PC1FYK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ukuUBbZ47X7K0

For reference

What's stopping you from plugging your wife's PC directly into the router? If it's just one cable in the room, then your best option is to use a switch. Cheapest one will do, preferably gigabit.

https://www.amazon.com/D-Link-5-Port-Unmanaged-Gigabit-GO-SW-5G/dp/B008PC1FYK

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Internet-Splitter/dp/B00KFD0SMC

One of those for example.

The kind of bridging you did should technically do the job, but it's the last solution anyone would recommend. Not worth toubleshooting imo.

I have two of these daisy chained with Ubiquity APs. No problem with tagged traffic.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B008PC1FYK/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1518873108&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=dlink+5+port+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=314l5SVfPOL&ref=plSrch

will get shot of them when I get the house structurally networked

https://www.amazon.com/d/B008PC1FYK/

To run ethernet cables throughout my home without wiring through the walls, I used Command Decorating Clips to attach different length Jadaol Cat6 white, flat ethernet cables (e.g., this 100 feet model) to the walls and ceilings. I separated each clip by about 2 feet. Small, simple (unmanaged) gigabit ethernet switches (I have a few of this model, which is about the size of a human hand) provide access points throughout the network while connecting each cable. Guests only notice the entire setup when I specifically mention it to them.

Short answer: yes.

Quick side note: you're looking at 10Gb (bit), not 10GB (byte).

Some clarification is possibly necessary here. You're probably using something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-XS708E-Ethernet-XS708E-100NES/dp/B00B46AEE6

In which case, it has 8 ports that can deliver 10Gb each, and ONLY 8 ports that can deliver Gb each (no other ports). It will bottleneck IF, and only if, you are trying to push more than 10Gb at once from this switch to the next one up/downstream from it. Whether this is occuring is highly variable based on your environment.

Many switches have a configuration more like this:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833122436

The bulk of ports are gigabit (1Gb), and it has 10Gb capable uplinks, so you have less congestion. Same concept with 10Gb switches with 40Gb/100Gb uplinks, etc.


Finally, what you seem to be thinking of is how hubs work(ed). If you have an 8-port 10Gb hub (does such a thing exist? I hope not), then your available bandwidth is reduced by the number of connected machines. The (simplified) technical reason for this is that a hub sends packets to all connected computers. If a packet destined for 192.168.1.1 is received by a computer at 192.168.1.2, it ignores the packet. With a switch, it keeps track of which devices are on which port. A packet destined for 192.168.1.1 is sent out port 4, because the switch knows that's where it is.

Most affordable one that comes to mind is the NetGear ProSafe XS708E - http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-XS708E-Ethernet-XS708E-100NES/dp/B00B46AEE6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1453474631&sr=8-2&keywords=netgear+XS712T $760

Esperti di networking, help.

In vista del prossimo upgrade alla fibra 1000 ho deciso di cambiare lo switch con uno gigabit, questo in particolare. Il problema è che adesso la stampante non va. Se la collego allo switch non riesce a prendere l'ip (prende un ip del tipo 192.254.ecc... che da quanto ho capito è segno che il dhcp non va) mentre se la collego direttamente al router funziona. Dato che questo switch può essere configurato, cosa posso fare? Ho provato a dare alla stampante un ip e gateway manualmente ma nada.

I'm gonna go out on a limb and say:... it's because you're using cheap/shitty equipment.

• Switch = Trendnet..... I'd throw this away. It's a cheap $15 switch. If you spend something in the $50 to $100 range (example: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M1C0186/ref=twister_B00MGMPT9W ) You'll get better & more reliable performance.
  
  
• Router = That Verizon FIOS router is just a re-branded Actiontec MI424-WR. Honestly it's got fairly low end specs. Here's the info-page: http://wiki.openwrt.org/toh/actiontec/mi424wr. It's got a CPU that only goes up to 533mhz, 32mb of RAM and 8mb of Flash (firmware storage space). Most modern home/consumer level Routers these days are anywhere from 600mhz to 1ghz+ CPU's.. with 128 to 256mb of RAM and 128 to 256mb of Flash.
  
  As far as the OpenELEC ... Looks like it uses an integrated AMD-chipset and is capable of Gigabit Ethernet.. so as long as your AMD chipset drivers are up to date.. you should be fine.
  
  As far as the DELL... The network drivers were last updated December 2013: http://www.dell.com/support/home/us/en/19/product-support/product/inspiron-15r-5520/drivers (look under NETWORK and Realtek )

You want to get a processor that supports aes-ni. That will allow SSL acceleration (opnvpn) and is also being required as of pfSense 2.5 and up.

I would choose this machine and purchase an unmanaged switch for your devices.

Hope that helps!

2nd edit; I was am an idiot... OK, Here you go. Under budget and should do what you need....

You can use this Zotac Barebones PC w/ the Celeron N3150 processor that supports AES-NI. Add some RAM and a SSD. Finally a Managed 8 Port Switch.

1st edit; Did not realize that I linked a celeron ( thanks u/suziesamantha ) as I thought it was a j1900 processor and then realized that the bay trail's also don't have aes-ni support. Sorry for the wrong information. The router I built is based on the Atom Rangley chip. You can use this link to help find aes-ni support.

neither option is optimal. go with a good router straight off the modem with a 8 port SWITCH right next to it. then either use a couple waps or routers configured in wap mode to fulfill your wireless needs. most applications only call for one router in the network and unless configured correctly you can get some pretty big headaches from having more than one device issuing dhcp on the same network (not good) do you already have the components and if so what are they? if not we can definitely give you parts recommendations to really streamline things!

edit: if your in a position to start from scratch:
Ubiquiti Edgerouter and
Netgear switch and
Unify AP's

As explained already, you'll need a device that supports VLAN configuration (priority and tagging) instead of the Linksys switch you're proposing.

All you'll need to swap in this situation is the switch with something supported, and add a PoE injector to power the fiber jack.

A cheap managed switched like the Netgear GS108E can do this for you.

One thing to note is that I don't think you'll be able to get phone or TV service doing this, since you probably need the network box at the front of the topology pulling the IP. I'm not 100% sure if you can just stick the NB somewhere and it just "works" so just keep that in mind.

Thanks for the suggestion. I was hoping to get a switch that has a few more ports, though. I was looking at this

Seems pretty decent, are there any significant benefits getting the mikrotik over this?

There is no way to add poe to the Verizon router. Simplest solution Is to buy a switch which supports 4-6 poe Ethernet connections plus one extra port to connect it to your router.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Gigabit-Lifetime-Protection-GS108PEv3/dp/B00M1C03U2

Edit: There are poe injectors that work per individual Ethernet connection so technically you could use the fios router and get poe. That would be extremely inefficient though compared to a poe switch.

• It does not have built in WiFi (you can get it as an option but I don't recommend it)
  
  Is there a particular reason why not?
  
  >The SG-2220 only has two Ethernet ports- one for LAN, one for WAN
  
  Could both of these to connect some device (game console, smartTV, etc) to the internet (via wired connection), or only one?
  
  Kind of a dumb question, but can you just get an "Ethernet splitter" dongle like you can with coax, or will they degrade the signal strength on the line. (i.e. What exactly is the "Ethernet Switch" - the actual box doing besides just Ethernet having ports. PoE aside).
  
  I guess I'm a little confused. I though that the modem regulates (modulates) the actually signal to the web at large, while the router simply created your local/home network, allowed WiFi, and made it so that many devices could use the same ISP connection at once. With those things separates out - access point (for WiFI) and ethernet switch (for wired). What is the rest of the router actually doing?
  
  
  I'm sure these are pretty dumb questions for most people on this sub. But I though I knew something about networking - I obviously dont :(

NETGEAR 8-Port Gigabit Ethernet Smart Managed Plus PoE Switch (GS108PEv3) - with 4 x PoE @ 53W, Desktop/Rackmount, and ProSAFE Limited Lifetime Protection https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M1C03U2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SHL2DbWKH84A7

I got one of these although I haven't used managed part yet. Just got it a few days ago.

Right, so you're looking at consumer 802.11n hardware. You're also looking like a 2x2 antenna setup at that so your max connection speed will be 150Mbps. With wireless overhead on consumer gear you can expect less than half of whatever your connection speed is for actual throughput. When connected to the wireless range extender you can expect half of the half, so less than 1/4 of your connection speed on actual throughput. Wireless also operates at half duplex, so once you start adding a lot of clients it will get exponentially worse.

If you want to do this yourself, I have a couple of recommendations:

1. Put in a consumer-prise system like Ubiquiti for wireless. It has a controller for easy-ish setup and you can get the latest 802.11ac speeds for not a lot of money. I would look at the UAP-AC-Pro specifically since it can be used with regular PoE. 3-4 of these should do well for you:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRO512
   
   
2. Upgrade your switch to something with gigabit PoE, doesn't really matter the vendor. Make sure the switch is gigabit to take advantage of newer wireless speeds. Ubiquiti actually makes a cheap-ish one that can be used with their controller:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJZUQ24
   
   That will keep your cost under $1k and give you a decent experience. Don't skimp out on this stuff, it will dramatically change your overall experience. Also, run cable to all 3-4 APs back to the switch for max speeds and the most reliable operation. They will also get their power from the switch so you only have to run the network cable to where you need to mount the APs. Put them on the ceiling for the best signal strength.
   
   ps- I do this for a living for a large enterprise nationwide company. If you have a floor plan, PM and I'll help you determine the best location for the APs.

Unifi stack all the way:

Unifi Security Gateway: Ubiquiti Unifi Security Gateway (USG) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LV8YZLK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ouoqDbNGPTMRV

Unifi PoE switch (if needed): Ubiquiti UniFi Switch - 24 Ports Managed (US-24-250W) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJZUQ24/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2uoqDbP4PF520

Unifi AP nanoHD: Ubiquiti UniFi nanoHD Compact 802.11ac Wave2 MU-MIMO Enterprise Access Point (UAP-NANOHD-US) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DWW3P6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rvoqDb562BQEE

Total: $667.56

No VLANs necessary for your scale.

If you don’t want to manage a Unifi Controller, we offer that as a service for customers. https://peopleit.com or give us a call at (616) 594-7100 if you have any questions.

Maybe you can try the Ubiquiti switch with 24 ports managed as an alternaltive that can perform better.

8 port managed POE switch: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Managed-Gigabit-US-8-150W/dp/B01DKXT4CI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497803035&sr=8-2&keywords=ubiquiti+managed+switch

AP (1 every 4 rooms): https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1497803133&sr=1-1&keywords=ubiquiti+access+point

24 port switch to feed APs: https://www.amazon.ca/UBIQUITI-US-24-250W-UNIFI-Switch-24-Managed/dp/B00OJZUQ24/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1497803253&sr=1-2&keywords=ubiquiti+managed+switch

Router: I'm not sure, my company actually orders custom-made little PCs that we run OpenWRT on. I assume Ubiquiti routers would be nice though, judging by my experience with other pieces of their equipment

Invest in your company, invest in your infrastructure.

I'm going to demur from your provided list, and instead offer an alternative solution. Just hear me out before you look for sticker shock (all prices in USD).

Ubiquiti 24-port Gigabit Switch with PoE ($379)

Ubiquiti Unifi Security Gateway ($129)

Ubiquiti Unifi Cloud Key Gen2 ($195)

Ubiquiti Unfi UAP-AC-PRO-E 2-pack ($290)

Total cost: $993

Why am I suggesting you spend almost three times the average cost of one of those small-business routers? A few reasons.

First is performance. Ubiquiti makes 'prosumer' / Enterprise level equipment. The Access Points (APs, last entry) are each rated for 200+ simultaneous connections. When deployed right, you'll probably connect to one consistently; the other will be used by the network to identify which WiFi channels are least congested and migrate you and your clients to those less congested frequencies. In the end, that's your real problem: congestion. With 62 competing access points, it can be hard for your devices to 'hear' your router. So you need a product with some real oomph to get your AP heard. Ubiquiti can do that in spades.

The second is professionalism. What looks better to a client? A plastic black box on a desk somewhere, or an access point hung from the ceiling, like you'd find in a fortune 500 company's headquarters? ubiquit's stuff is slick, sleek, and professional.

So what are you getting for your money?

The switch (first entry) is used to provide power to the Access Points (PoE: Power over Ethernet), and since you have some extra ports there, you can also run a connection to a server, or hardwired connection to laptops, or whatever you might come up with.

The security gateway is the real 'router' in this set up, but it has no wifi capability built in; this is why you need the Access Points. The way it works, you would take your ISP's modem, set it to bridge mode, and then connect the modem to the security gateway, and the security gateway to the switch.

The cloud key is the brains of the network. It will host the controller software and allow you to set up the wifi. While this software can in theory be run on any device, this particular cloud key also contains a hard drive - very useful if you'd like to install security cameras in the office (I'm sure your insurance company would be VERY grateful, if you dont have these already). As a side note, Ubiquiti does make PoE-powered security cameras.

This setup will 100% guarantee that your wifi is the dominant 'voice' in your office. You won't have dropouts, you won't have connection issues, and this setup is very expandable - 1 port for the gateway, 1 port for the cloud key, 2 for the APs, (ideally) 5 for wired connections for you and your coworkers - that still leaves 13 connections on the switch, which means you can still expand this if you hire more employees. If you find you need a backup ISP, there's a grade higher security gateway that can handle redundant ISP connections. If you need to cover more area with WiFi, you can add another access point.

Make the setup look really professional and install everything into a patch panel cabinet like this one

Hire an electrician who specializes in running ethernet cable, and have them mount the APs in your ceiling (super easy if you have a drop ceiling. If not, its more difficult, but not by any means impossible). While they're there, have them run at least one ethernet line to everyone's desk.

edit: and less you think I'm blowing smoke up your ass, I use a frighteningly similar setup in my own home. Yes, it's overkill, no I don't care. It's the most stable WiFi I've had in a house in my life.

Ubiquiti Unifi Security Gateway Pro (USG-PRO-4) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019PBEI5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tD7KBbP85NRW5

Ubiquiti UniFi Switch - 24 Ports... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJZUQ24?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

More info needed. And some concerns...

You say 100 people. How big of an area will this be hosted in? 100 people on one router is likely to be problematic so you'll likely want to multiple APs if they will have some separation.

How much bandwidth does an individual client need?

Any reason that you dont want to hardwire ethernet to all?

Most APs will have DNS built in that can be edited. But if you are running DNS on a Pi, you could also run DHCP on that same Pi and well? Then, your router doesn't need to worry at all about DNS or DHCP.

Also, what is your budget?

In general, I would recommend staying away from the big routers and look more for high-end consumer or low end professional access points. If you have a fairly large space or multiple rooms, I would look at a "microcell" deployment. Use multiple access points but turn their radios power down and separate/space them throughout your area. Each AP would be hardwired back to a gigabit switch with the Pis and other hardwired devices.

Stuff like:
24 port gigabit swtich(es)
NETGEAR 26-Port Gigabit Ethernet Smart Managed Pro PoE Switch (GS324TP) - with 24 x PoE+ @ 190W, 2 x 1G SFP, Desktop/Rackmount, S350 series https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PHVBQVS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5uWMDbSCPHK6S

Ubiquiti UniFi Switch - 24 Ports Managed (US-24-250W) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJZUQ24/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gwWMDb6356NCV

Multi Wireless AP
Ubiquiti Networks UAP-AC-PRO-US Unifi 802.11ac Dual-Radio PRO Access Point (4 Items) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JR7VYV3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SxWMDb5Z4CDNT

> ubiquiti edge switch 16 (ES-16-150W)

Not necessarily, just need to buy a switch of the Unifi Line, and not the Edge Line, for example the US-24-250

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Get this Gigabit switch: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-8-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B07PFYM5MZ and you won't bottle neck anything. And you will still have 5 free ports on the switchafter you plug in everything you currently have. Or you could step up to the 16 port version and have 13 ports free: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AX8XHRQ

Here is my $.02

I'd get the Edgerouter-X SFP version firstly. It has the ability to push 24v PoE (Unlike the standard ER-X which only accepts 24v PoE passthrough). Then pick up however many Ubiquiti Access points you plan on using. Maybe one or two UAP-AC-Lites or UAP-AC-LRs. Then just run a couple cables from your router to a port you want your Access points to be connected to. Option 2 would be to run separate cables for the access points if you don't want to use an existing jack for these. That way you don't need the injectors. It would be PoE all the way through.

For the switch, there are a few options. It has already been mentioned that you will need one port to be the uplink to your router and that switches typically come in 8,16,24, and 48 port flavours. The main factor here is going to be if you want a "managed" switch or "unmanaged" (dumb) switch. I'm going to just assume that you only need an "unmanaged" switch to distribute your network to the 10 ports. Something like this would be good enough to meet your needs.

You would have the ER-X to interface with your modem, switch, and provide PoE to your Access points. You would have the 16 port switch to provide the connection to all your jacks throughout the house.

That is how I would do it. The ER-X and Switch would run you around $130 US and a UAP-AC-Lite is around $90 on Amazon. Totals around the $200 mark.

To answer your question about using two routers, just don't. You can use a router as an access point, but you need to either use it how it isn't intended or set it to behave as an access point. Either way, getting some good Ubiquiti Access points would be much better than this.

I picked up a little TP Link switch. I just needed something to power/connect the single AP and the CK. A downside of this little switch is that you must use the TP Link software to manage it - no CLI or web interface. I really don't need the management features at this point but they might be handy later.

TP link makes a cost effective gigabit PoE switch that might meet your needs for about half the price. I think you hit the nail on the head, if you don't need per port utilization, vlans, etc then you don't need to shell out the extra cash. Buy the features you'll actually use.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-8-Port-Gigabit-Switch-4-Port/dp/B01BW0AD1W

It's not like you can manage the edgerouter and US8 from the same pane of glass anyway.

At that price point, I didn't think there would be much. If you can live with Netgear and TP-Link devices, these might work for you.

TP-Link 8-Port Gigabit PoE Easy Smart Managed Switch with 55W 4-PoE Ports IEEE 802.3af compliant (TL-SG108PE)

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Lifetime-compliant-TL-SG108PE/dp/B01BW0AD1W/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=4+port+managed+switch+poe&qid=1558541134&s=gateway&sr=8-3

NETGEAR 8-Port Gigabit Smart Managed Pro Switch, 53w, PoE, ProSAFE (GS110TPv2)

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Gigabit-Lifetime-Protection-GS110TPv2/dp/B00LW9A328/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=4+port+managed+switch+poe&qid=1558541134&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Curiosity got the better of me and i found a few non-managed PoE switches: they usually seem to have some fixed number of PoE and some non-PoE ports. You might as well pay a bit more and get basic management, or step up to something like the US-8-60W for really not much more. Any of those options assume only 802.3af compatible access points though...

And yes, pretty much every other managed UniFi switch currently made has 24v PoE except the US-8-60W, I just mentioned that one one as it is by far the cheapest one they make. That one doesn't work for the Unifi-HD or SHD either as it's only 802.3af not af+, or I'd own one.

If you have a decent budget I would look at Ubiquiti unifi network stuff.

Here is a router, access point, and the controller that configures and monitors everything.


https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-USG-Security-UC-CK-UAP-AC-PRO/dp/B07C87SQ9W/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=1F33LBHXUCZ52&keywords=unifi%2Bsecurity%2Bgateway&qid=1550283380&s=gateway&sprefix=unifi%2B&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&th=1


Switch with power over Ethernet to power the access points


https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-US-16-150W-UniFi-Switch/dp/B01E46ATQ0/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=unifi+switch&qid=1550283561&s=gateway&sr=8-4


In wall access points that you can place in strategic spots in your house if you want better coverage.


https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-UAP-AC-Iw-Wireless-Access/dp/B06XZLP8Q6/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?crid=35O92BTS4KY1I&keywords=unifi+in+wall+hd&qid=1550283677&s=gateway&sprefix=unifi+in+&sr=8-2


You can learn more here

unifi-sdn.ui.com

> -Should the computer/plex server be wired to router or the switch?

Doesn't matter.

> -Any recommendations on a POE switch?

Not sure if other manufacturers make a 24v passive PoE switch that'll work with the UAP-AC-Lite (it's not standard 802.1at/af capable like the UAP-AC-Pro). Depending on how many ports you need, The Switch-8-150W or the Switch-16-150w would work.

> -Is cat6 okay to run over POE?

yes.

> -Will 3 Lites cover the house or should I get 3 LRs?

LRs probably won't do you much good -- they may output more power, but your devices won't, so they may see the AP, but might not have the power to transmit back. I'd start with your current plans, and if you have some weak / dead spots to fill in, add in a UAP-AC-IW...

Yes! I use on of these with a Zero and it works quite well.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/DSLRKIT-Active-Splitter-Ethernet-Raspberry/dp/B01H37XQP8

I bought directly from China for much cheaper. They also have another version that uses a barrel connector rather than micro USB.

EDIT - Make sure it is an active one that supports 802.3af

I'm not previous commenter, but I am using one of these to power my hass pi3. Powered via Cisco 3560g Poe switch, 802.3af.

DSLRKIT Active PoE Splitter Power Over Ethernet 48V to 5V 2.4A Micro USB Plug for Raspberry Pi B/B+/2/3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H37XQP8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_triOzbM3GGSAV

I've been using one of these for a few months, and it seems fine. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H37XQP8/

OP, do NOT get the SB6190, it has an Intel Puma chip that is a known problem with latency & stability issues. Either get the SB6183 or the SB8200. Also keep in mind bonded channels do much more than just max bandwidth potential. My service is no where near 1Gbps, but I still benefit from 16x4 channels on mine. Personally, I'd go with the SB8200; it's the best DOCSIS 3.1 modem out there (out of the 3 known); much better build quality, better heatsinks & RF reduction too. It's more pricey but you end up saving anyway from not having to rent. But if wary, you won't go wrong with the SB6183. The lower models are phased out even by Comcast now. You'll be set for a long time either way.

If you want a switch that's a bit more future proof, I highly recommend this one (two 10G ports): https://www.amazon.com/XG-U2008-Unmanaged-2-Port-8-Port-Gigabit/dp/B01LZMM7ZO

Asus has the XG-U2008 Unmanaged 2 Port 10gbe 8 Port 1gbe switch for $129.

https://www.amazon.com/XG-U2008-Unmanaged-2-Port-8-Port-Gigabit/dp/B01LZMM7ZO

https://www.amazon.com/XG-U2008-Unmanaged-2-Port-8-Port-Gigabit/dp/B01LZMM7ZO
Here's a link to it too

The ASUS 10g stuff is pretty cheap
https://www.amazon.com/XG-C100C-Network-Adapter-PCI-E-Single/dp/B072N84DG6/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1502305356&sr=1-2&keywords=asus+10g
https://www.amazon.com/XG-U2008-Unmanaged-2-Port-8-Port-Gigabit/dp/B01LZMM7ZO/ref=pd_sbs_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01LZMM7ZO&pd_rd_r=5VJPJKBW07E44H2J7SK3&pd_rd_w=kISbQ&pd_rd_wg=eOqL4&psc=1&refRID=5VJPJKBW07E44H2J7SK3

Both of my servers also already have 10g nics and everything else is wireless.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Managed-Gigabit-US-8-150W/dp/B01MZ32B1B?th=1

Left most port takes PoE in. I use it this way in my home setup. First picture on the listing is the wrong switch, second picture is the right one.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-US-8-Unifi-Switch/dp/B01MZ32B1B/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1500142906&sr=8-3&keywords=unifi+8+port+switch

Not 1u mountable but you can get a tray for it.

The best thing to do is separate everything out so you can future proof your setup. What if down the line you want to extend your wifi or need more wired ports? When you separate everything out (security gateway/firewall, switch and wifi access points) its much easier to upgrade and troubleshoot. Your typical consumer grade all in one routers have all three of those things in one package and none of them are particularly great.

Ubiquiti is the current leader at this for the home user. They have SOHO grade equipment (small office home office) which is basically enterprise grade equipment but at consumer grade prices.

If I were you, here's what I'd do:
Ubiquiti Unifi Security Gateway (USG) - this will be the brains of your system and allow port forwarding, QoS, deep packet inspection, etc.

Ubiquiti Networks 8-Port UniFi Switch, Managed PoE+ Gigabit Switch with SFP, 150W (US-8-150W) - this gives you 8 ports, all of which can be enabled for power over ethernet which can easily power your security cameras and access points. If you don't need this then you can get the cheaper non-PoE switch Ubiquiti US-8 Unifi Switch

Ubiquiti Networks Unifi 802.11ac Dual-Radio PRO Access Point (UAP-AC-PRO-US) - This is a great access point to give you fast wifi at a great range. This plugs directly into your switch via ethernet cable. If you need to extend you wifi then you can get a second one and plug it in. These can be powered by PoE which is really nice.

Total cost: $461

I guarantee you would end up spending more upgrading an all in one router over the next few years. This will easily last you 10+ years if not more and be enterprise grade equipment.

If you stick another router behind the Quantum gateway you'll be double NAT'ing which is aweful for things like online gaming and external port forwarding.

You'll want to use the Quantum Gateway as a MOCA bridge. To do this follow the guide here...
http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r31057540-Networking-HOW-TO-Bridge-G1100-So-your-Router-becomes-Primary

Check this to see how you should plug everything in.
https://pastebin.com/QUNvTfSs

ONT -> New Router -> New Switch <- Quantum Gateway <- Set Top Boxes (COAX)
^
|
Wireless AP(s)
Your new network switch should be the central connection point for all of your wired devices.

(I personally have a 3 port USG with my gigabit FiOS service and get 900+ up/down without issue).

If you're looking for a full Ubiquiti Unifi Setup a switch like this https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-US-8-Unifi-Switch/dp/B01MZ32B1B or they also have models with more ports. Or you can use a dumb switch like a D-Link or TP-Link model of equal size.

If all you want is a dumb swith I agree with /u/CollateralFortune . But I also agree with /u/G01d3ngypsy and I would spend a few more bucks and get something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Mikrotik-CSS326-24G-2S-RM-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B0723DT6MN/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519311016&sr=1-3&keywords=mikrotik+24+port+switch

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0723DT6MN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lbDZDbK7ZXFC7

A cheap switch should suffice:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Compliant-Shielded-Optimization-TL-SG1005P/dp/B00A128S24

Or you could get one with PoE so that you don't have to use the phone's brick.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Compliant-Shielded-Optimization-TL-SG1005P/dp/B076HZFY3F

Yup, basically if all you need to do is all more Ethernet ports and Jack's to plug up devices a cheap 8 port will cost you less than $30 new basically


Example, any good name brand gigabit switch should be fine. Really don't ever have to worry about them.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07PFYM5MZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EMsADbK5TMZD8

A tower computer, should have an available internal expansion port that you can install a replacement Network adapter into or you can just use a USB to Ethernet adapter (though the internal would be better).

A switch is used in a wired network to connect to other devices using Ethernet cables. The switch allows each connected device to talk to the others.

Here is a nice 8 port switch: https://smile.amazon.com/NETGEAR-8-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B07PFYM5MZ/ref=sxin_2_ac_d_pm?ac_md=1-0-VW5kZXIgJDI1-ac_d_pm&crid=9AB7KW1UWRKZ&keywords=ethernet+switch+8+port&pd_rd_i=B07PFYM5MZ&pd_rd_r=c79d4d2c-21b3-4368-87a8-f5e78cb772fa&pd_rd_w=hI0j7&pd_rd_wg=mkjNm&pf_rd_p=eeff02d5-070a-45ea-a79e-d591974b877e&pf_rd_r=4R5EXN3EJE3YM4D2SA53&psc=1&qid=1569472927&sprefix=Ethernet+sw%2Caps%2C260

So it’s just a basic switch like this

NETGEAR 8-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch (GS308) - Desktop, Sturdy Metal Fanless Housing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PFYM5MZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FXyGDbXT6J1T1

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-8-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B07PFYM5MZ/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=NETGEAR+8-Port+Gigabit+Ethernet+Unmanaged+Switch+%28GS308%29+-+Desktop%2C+Sturdy+Metal+Fanless+Housing&qid=1568396836&s=gateway&sr=8-1

​

I use this

​

edit: I use this one as well: https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Splitter-Optimization-Unmanaged-TL-SG108/dp/B00A121WN6/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?keywords=TP-Link+TL-SG108+8-Port+10%2F100%2F1000Mbps+Desktop+Gigabit+Steel+Cased+Switch%2C+IEEE+802.1p+QoS%2C+Up+to+72%25+Power+Saving&qid=1568396966&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmr0

Yes, just get a small switch. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-8-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B07PFYM5MZ/

(you don't need 8 ports, 4-5 will do, but this was cheaper than the 5 port one...)

Plug a cable from your modem into any one port, plug PC into another, PS4 into a third.

In general, for all networked devices, ethernet is far better than wifi. I wire everything that has the option to be wired. Especially video.

As said the port on the PlayBar will work but it might prove a bit slow if you have fast Ethernet as Sonos only does 100 not 1000.

Try it and if it isn't fast enough for glitch free TV over Ethernet viewing add an inexpensive Ethernet switch, similar to this:

https://smile.amazon.com/NETGEAR-5-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B07S98YLHM/ref=sr_1_4

Avoid any on this list:

https://support.sonos.com/s/article/41?language=en_US

Five ports gives you an input for the cable from your router and four outputs for TV, Sub and PlayBar plus a spare. Eight ports isn't much more expensive if you think you have any use for them.

It works pretty much just like a hub but separates the information on each port. I will link one I'm a minute.

Edit: here is a link to an unmanaged switch. Just plug and go like the hub. So there is one port for in cable to the router like the hub then plug your desktop cable into one of the other four ports. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S98YLHM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1V6QDbBYYZA90

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeRouter-Advanced-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00YFJT29C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539535616&sr=8-1&keywords=edgerouter+x

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539535605&sr=8-1&keywords=unifi+lite

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Lifetime-compliant-TL-SG108PE/dp/B01BW0AD1W/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1539535854&sr=8-17&keywords=poe+switch+8

​

You might need a second access point depending on the wall penetration, or the layout of your home. Ubiquiti switches are more expensive, threw in a tp-link POE smart switch. The initial setup on the erx is very simple.

​

As an alternative, the EAP225 access point from tp-link.

I'm thinking for $60 I could get a "managed" switch with POE to replace/combine the AP switch and IoT switch, so I can provide PoE to cameras and APs but keep them segregated on their own vlans:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-8-Port-Gigabit-Switch-4-Port/dp/B01BW0AD1W

So bought this, which provides 15.4w per port...my revision number is supposed to put me on the AF side of the AP AC Lites...but sure enough, it doesn't power on with this switch https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Unmanaged-Lifetime-TL-SG108PE/dp/B01BW0AD1W/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505493494&sr=1-1&keywords=sg108pe

Excuse the ignorance but what is the advantage of this switch over something like TP-Link 8-Port Gigabit PoE Web Managed Easy Smart Switch with 4-PoE Ports (TL-SG108PE) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BW0AD1W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dF9mybDG17P48?

In addition what is the difference once this switch compared to another one of ubiquitis switches? Ubiquiti Networks 8-Port UniFi Switch, Managed PoE+ Gigabit Switch with SFP, 150W (US-8-150W) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DKXT4CI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZG9myb310YM0B

Here's a cheaper POE smart router (almost the same as the other one I posted, just with POE selected on the amazon page).

Note: I have never used these switches before so I don't know if the preconfigured vlan thing is still an issue. From googling, it seems like it's not, but just giving you the disclaimer that I can't personally vouch for it.

This is my plan too, using this managed switch. It can also cycle a cameras PoE power to reboot it, using the switch's web interface.

For the switch-to-NVR "trunk" line I'm running a Cat7 shielded cable that's capable of 10Gb, more for "future-proofing" as I don't want to run this cable again.

I recently did some.

monoprice cat6a UTP 22awg CMR UL Listed, mono price keystones and patch panel cat6a UTP UL listed. Don't buy STP or foiled. Some area's code requires CMP for plenum run's. It's very expensive only buy to meet code.

If you're running a lot of wires I'd recommend the patch panel. If you secure it to something make sure that it can't move. One of the 4 post 20U+ racks secured down to something.

Layer3 isn't a requirement. It can speed things up by not needing to go to the router to be routed. You can run a lot of services on your router so passing traffic through it is not a bad thing. a switch with spf+ and a pfsense box with spf+ can get you 10G. 10G is overkill in most cases. Many 2+ switches have bonding. So you can do 2 or 4g that way.

unifi has a 16 port switch with POE. It's pricey. You can get 10G switches around that price. POE adds quite a bit of cost. If it's only for unifi access points you can inject power to them, there is no price difference for injectors. Buying an injector with many slots is an option too.

https://www.amazon.com/D-Link-Systems-SmartPro-Stackable-DGS-1510-20/dp/B00MCZNW5G?th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-US-16-150W-UniFi-Switch/dp/B01E46ATQ0/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1540398551&sr=1-3&keywords=unifi+16+port+poe+switch

Yes as you said below, you really don't want a "mesh" network. That means something totally different.

You just want PoE access points that can do hand-of, which UniFI can do for sure. I use UniFI at my house and it's 100% worth it. Either of these will work:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Compact-802-11ac-Enterprise-UAP-NanoHD-US/dp/B07DWW3P6K/

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-UAP-AC-PRO-Access-Included/dp/B079DSW6XX/

but the first one (the NanoHD) is newer and supports 802.11ac wave2.

With unifi you really should go all-in with unifi equipment. That's when the system works best. I'd recommend this PoE switch:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Managed-Gigabit-US-8-150W/dp/B01DKXT4CI/

You get 8 ports of PoE ethernet and two SFP ports. You can turn the SFP ports into two more RJ45 gigabit ethernet ports (without PoE) with these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JUBXDPI/

Alternatively, if you need many more ports or want something rack-moutable, I'd use this switch:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-US-16-150W-UniFi-Switch/dp/B01E46ATQ0/

You'll also need a computer that's always on somewhere in your house to run the UniFI controller software. The controller is how you configure and track everything. It's really light-weight, so it can just run in the background on a desktop or some old Mac or PC.

Alternatively you can just plug a "UniFI Cloud Key" controller into one of your PoE ports:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Secure-Controller-stand-Alone-Hardware/dp/B07BB4RGQD/

One caveat, if you use the cloud key make sure you back up your unifi database (on the controller) often. I've had them fail on me more than I like.

Finally, if you don't like any of those you can use a hosted instance of the cloud controller but it's $199 a year:

https://community.ubnt.com/t5/UniFi-Wireless/Announcing-UniFi-s-newest-Cloud-management-offering/td-p/1912538

I have these:
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Security-Gateway-USG-PRO-4/dp/B019PBEI5W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538949380&sr=8-1&keywords=usg+pro+4


https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-US-16-150W-UniFi-Switch/dp/B01E46ATQ0/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1538949426&sr=1-1&keywords=us-16-150w+ubiquiti

I have and use these 2 switches. The ubiquiti is in my rack and the 8 port I can throw down if I need more ports at my desk for something. I only have 2 drops at my desk.

UNIFI SWITCH 16PORT 150W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E46ATQ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_r4B1CbTBH367K


ZyXEL 8-Port Gigabit Ethernet Web... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LX9925Z?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

If I'm building a router with pfSense sitting on top of the switch, would the switch itself need Layer 3 capabilities? pfSense would be handling most of that functionality I would think, right?

If that's the case, would a lower power, more gui-friendly option like this be doable for the switch?

Unifi PoE+ switches may suitable : US-16-150W, US‑24‑250W, US‑24‑500W. They are quite cost-effective compared to the other switch. I have one and works great.
https://www.ubnt.com/unifi-switching/unifi-switch-poe/

US-16-150W: only $282.92 at amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E46ATQ0/ref=twister_B01L18EHAI?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

You are approaching this correctly I think.

If you are running wiring you will want to pick a location to be the network rack. typically where the lines come in the house (but obviously that doesn't matter here)

Get a 19in rack and mount it.



Patch Panel for punching down your terminations there.

Get a shelf.

Probably looking at a 16-port switch? Maybe 24?

I like the Unifi stack for everything. lots of people say the edge routers, which makes some sense for one location I guess. It's a little bit more detailed UI. Literally the same hardware though.

I like the USG. If it were me I would probably put in the Pro, because rackmount, but that's stupid crazy overkill from a tech perspective. It would bother me irrationally, just the form factor.

Then you drop your Access Points in. It depends on how the house is setup, but you want to put them where you actually will use them. At 4000sqft, 2-3 should cover it, depending on layout.



> So looking for suggestions on setup. Was thinking about going all Ubiquiti gear but alot of people say it can be challenging to setup but great once you get it working. With the hassle of moving, young kids, and dealing with getting internet in the first place Im not sure I have time for something that will take a while to get working great.

It won't take much time at all to actually set it up. Physically setting it up will be the time consuming bit. The technical setup will be nothing to someone who runs a VM server. In fact you will do what I do and just spin up a headless ubuntu instance and install the controller. You click adopt a few times on the hardware in a pretty UI and it's done.

Have you considered using POE. Get a POE switch, and POE splitters. You can get adapters that convert

the output to USB-C

https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-LINK-TL-SF1005P-5-Port-Desktop-Switch/dp/B076982FVC/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=poe+switch&qid=1562160566&s=gateway&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.co.uk/DSLRKIT-Active-Splitter-Ethernet-Raspberry/dp/B01H37XQP8/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=poe+splitter&qid=1562160645&s=gateway&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Adapter-Ailun-Keychain-MacBook-ChromeBook/dp/B072X3TZ15/ref=sr_1_3?crid=CLV4E3E0MYPX&keywords=micro+usb+to+usb+c+adapter&qid=1562160680&s=gateway&sprefix=micro+usb+to+%2Caps%2C366&sr=8-3

I've put some RPi boards outside and I used regular RPi cases but put them into small IP67 rated enclosures. All the cables used waterproof cable glands to enter the enclosure. I added a couple bags of dessicant as well to ensure moisture level inside the enclosure was kept low. To power it, I used 802.3af PoE and fitted a 802.3af PoE splitter inside the enclosure.

So it's the splitter on the Pi side (US amazon link https://www.amazon.com/DSLRKIT-Active-Splitter-Ethernet-Raspberry/dp/B01H37XQP8) and the injector on the house side attached to power and the home LAN ? Seems pretty simple. Thanks.

https://www.amazon.com/XG-U2008-Unmanaged-2-Port-8-Port-Gigabit/dp/B01LZMM7ZO

sorry about the long delay in response time,
2x10gbE i mean like network teaming or bonding whichever phrase is correct, on a side note im either going to get (https://www.amazon.com/XG-U2008-Unmanaged-2-Port-8-Port-Gigabit/dp/B01LZMM7ZO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484810642&sr=8-1&keywords=ASUS+XGU2008) or im just gonna use a cross-over cable, as 10gbe has a real world speed of 1.25GB/s which is way more then the nas can r/w until i get the dual NVMe drives in there

> Maybe something to try if you want the flexibility but don't want to spend too much: https://www.amazon.com/XG-U2008-Unmanaged-2-Port-8-Port-Gigabit/dp/B01LZMM7ZO This is relatively cheap for a 10G switch, has two 10G ports and 8 gigabit ports, meaning that you'd have the flexibility to add a 10G desktop as well as a NAS (or similar) to have very fast file transfers between a PC and a NAS. It is unmanaged though, so if you want to do anything fancy with VLANs or subnets, you are out of luck.

I'd feel hemmed in if my only option was to use 10GBase-T (which you're stuck with on that switch). I'd probably opt for a switch with SFP+ slots and get a NAS that has fiber connectivity (or just use a proper computer as a server since it's a lot cheaper).

ASUS XG-U2008 Unmanaged 2-Port 10G and 8-Port Gigabit Switch

https://www.amazon.com/XG-U2008-Unmanaged-2-Port-8-Port-Gigabit/dp/B01LZMM7ZO

Please make sure you update on how it works out and all ur thoughts!

I recently fell down the same rabbit hole while researching more capable equipment for large transfers (10Gbs switching). I want to jump full in on the Ubiquiti ecosystem, and even was eyeing Arlo equipment as well, but the lack of 10G equipment as well as hopefully upcoming home purchase has delayed my purchase for at least a year.

I would love everything to be all perfect and in one ecosystem, but don’t know if it’s better to go with different equipment that better suite my needs like maybe ASUSASUS’s XG-U2008 and some Arlo cams with their push alerts and stuff.

Asus makes a decently cheap 10gb switch.
It only has 2 10gbaseT ports though.

I've been using a UniFi US-8 switch which is powered over PoE from my core switch. It has worked wonderfully for my TV, Console, roommate's gaming rig, and linking to a powerline network adapter (for the upstairs TV).

> US-8-60W

Here you go

Thank you.

Was looking at the Ubiquiti ones, and saw this on Amazon after looking at it on their website:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-US-8-Unifi-Switch/dp/B01MZ32B1B/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493217603&sr=8-1&keywords=ubiquiti+switch+8

The Ubiquiti switch 8... I think this might be sufficient for me. Dumb question though, the various different switches that Ubiquiti offers have different voltages. How would I know which one I need? Is it simple the number of ethernet ports I need? If so the 8 is plenty..

Edit: After reading a little more about it, I think this only gives me 4 ethernet ports? Limited research but I think 4 is plenty... I only have 1 AP at the moment. I guess my question becomes, where would other network attached electronics be attached (i.e. NAS, Vonage VOIP, etc).

Looks like I need to spend a couple hours tonight learning and researching about how this works

Ubiquiti.

It's not just a WiFi router, it's an AP that will connect to a Switch and has a hardware Security Gateway protecting the whole network.

If you want some quality equipment, Ubiquiti is pretty nice. Online Management, Stats and graphs and loads of functionality.

Here's the one I have: https://smile.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-US-8-60W-Unifi-Switch/dp/B01MZ32B1B

Ubiquiti equipment is pretty nice. The Unifi line trades some functionality for ease of management, but by no means isn't appropriate for most solutions.

I personally like this guy: Unifi US8

I put a few in place at work where I needed a single poe port for an AP and have 2 at home. If all you need is 1 poe port that could be a solution.

A term I've heard used is "prosumer" when referencing Ubiquiti equipment. The TP link is going to be consumer grade, so you can kind of think of it as like the next tier up before prices really jump and you're looking at enterprise equipment.

taking into account cost and usability...

this is the route i would personally go with.

Ubiquiti Security Gateway (router)

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Security-Gateway-USG/dp/B00LV8YZLK/

Ubiquiti Long Range AP

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Long-Range/dp/B015PRCBBI/

Ubiquiti 8 Port Gigabit Switch

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-US-8-Unifi-Switch/dp/B01MZ32B1B/

the Ubiquiti gear takes a bit more time/knowledge to setup, but is far more robust and offers greater network security.

i'd strongly suggest naming your 2.4GHz network and 5GHz network slightly different names (ie. HomeNetwork24 / HomeNetwork5). this allows you to choose which network/signal you want to use. 2.4GHz for slower/older devices that are further away / 5GHz for newer/faster devices that need the extra speed (streaming, gaming, etc).

Thank you so much for your fast replies. Cant tell you how much I appreciate it. I will certainly set it up the way you suggest! Final question, would any of these switches do the trick?


https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Managed-Gigabit-US-8-150W/dp/B01DKXT4CI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1501684043&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=ubiquiti+switch&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-US-8-60W-Unifi-Switch/dp/B01MU3WUX1/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1501684043&sr=8-3&keywords=ubiquiti+switch

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-US-8-Unifi-Switch/dp/B01MZ32B1B/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1501684043&sr=8-5&keywords=ubiquiti+switch)

or would just the managed one do what i need? Unfortunately all 3 of them share the same reviews and questions answered on amazon so its hard to tell

I'm looking here - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZ32B1B/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

CSS-326-24G-2S+RM pair here behind pfSense. Happy with them overall. Quiet little low power switches work good. 👌 Best part is budget friendly.

Mikrotik CSS326-24G-2S+RM 24 port Gigabit Ethernet switch with two SFP+ ports https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0723DT6MN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CQQkDb4604T05

I'm looking at this or the one that dual-boots their routeros for $50 more. Number of ports might be overkill for you; I think they have smaller layer2 units also.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0723DT6MN/?coliid=IJC6L0HZ8XRHJ&colid=1LIGZO5F4ZD4Q&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Mikrotik CSS326-24G-2S+RM is a good option. It has two SFP+ ports, don't know whether you need this. Here is the link: https://www.amazon.com/Mikrotik-CSS326-24G-2S-RM-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B0723DT6MN

https://smile.amazon.com/Mikrotik-CSS326-24G-2S-RM-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B0723DT6MN/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499669159&sr=1-2&keywords=mikrotik+24+port

How's 24 port + 2xsfp+ for $138 sound?

If you need routing, there's a version similar that loses the 10G for wifi (bleh, N) but you get RouterOS instead of swOS.

I believe the 24 port with SFP+ is on amazon for about $136 shipped ATM

https://www.amazon.com/Mikrotik-CSS326-24G-2S-RM-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B0723DT6MN/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537203838&sr=8-1&keywords=mikrotik+24+port+sfp%2B

https://www.amazon.com/Mikrotik-CRS326-24G-2S-RM-326-24G-2S-rackmount/dp/B0747TBTDX/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1537203838&sr=8-2&keywords=mikrotik+24+port+sfp%2B

Is this the switch? If I look at the back it seems to have a fan?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cloud-Smart-Switch-326-24G-2S-RM/dp/B0723DT6MN/ref=sr_1_17?keywords=mikrotik&qid=1571233995&sr=8-17

Well I can recommend this VLAN aware switch

I'd recommend using pfSense as router and firewall. it can be virtualized if you need.

I'd avoid expansion unless you actually need it.

First thing you need to do in my opinion is choose a hypervisor and start virtualization (in my case, I like Proxmox).

Second thing you should do in my opinion is separate storage from Proxmox so get a second server for storage and use like NFS or something to export to Proxmox.

From there, just figure out what you need or want and set up a VM for it.

Mikrotik CSS326-24G-2S+RM 24 port... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0723DT6MN?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I'm fairly certain it's 10Gbit all the way. Mellanox Connect-X 2 in my PC, one of these SFP+ modules, LC fiber to the other SFP+ in the switch, this from the switch to the other Mellanox card in my unRAID server.

Oh I know; it's more of a learning exercise with the benefit of at least getting more than 1Gb/s between my PC and unRAID server for copying files.

Well if your just looking for switching which it sounds like you are, there's a couple options.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0723DT6MN/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503618044&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=crs326-24g-2s%2Brm&dpPl=1&dpID=31YyE3cqAAL&ref=plSrch

Or even simpler

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0092KZBCQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1503618091&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=dlink+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=410JJ7z2lrL&ref=plSrch

I'd recommend the former if your looking to learn as these things are pretty crazy good. Probably as reliable as ubiquiti (as in not compared to Cisco of the world) but very feature rich, with a bit of a learning curve

I have virtually no experience with Cisco and I have no intention of drinking the overpriced koolaid so take this with a grain of salt but...

I see absolutely nothing useful about the 3750G compared to, say, the new Mikrotik CSS326: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0723DT6MN

With the CSS326 you get a fanless passively-cooled switch, that has 24 gigabit RJ-45 ports, plus two 10-gigabit SFP+ cages. And brand new it costs as much as you paid for a used power-hungry noisy antique monster.

Maybe I really just don't "get it", but Cisco doesn't seem like a good choice in a home lab UNLESS you're training for certifications.

This is correct.
Ready to pull the trigger on this setup:

NIC

cable

switch

Seems like everything should play nice together, with the added benefit of attaching my main desktop to the switch with 10g along with the server.

Opinions?

Couple Prime Day deal ones right now. This one for $30 and this one for $35

$35 one looks nicer quality

What about something like this?

https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-TL-SG1005P-Gigabit-Ethernet-Desktop/dp/B076HZFY3F/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=poe+switch&qid=1565730610&s=gateway&sr=8-3

This is my modem and I haven't had any issues in six years with it.

For my router I followed these instructions after putting a gigabit ethernet card in an old computer I had laying around. It also doubles as a backup, VPN, and file, and media server.

Then I set up a couple of these guys and a PoE switch to power them.

You can plug these AP's directly into your router if you like, you don't need to purchase additional equipment. However, if your router does not have enough free ports you can purchase a switch to expand the amount available to use.

You can use either a regular gigabit switch or a poe switch. POE switches have the ability to send Power Over Ethernet, this means when the AP's are plugged into them you do not need to use the included injectors, there is no performance benefit just a cleaner install. You can find small poe switches that are relatively inexpensive.

If you do decide to buy a POE switch double check to ensure that it can do gigabit speeds (1000mbit), many of the cheaper poe switches are only 10/100 mbit.

Do you really need super fast wifi in the garage? Might be better served to just go with a regular UAP AC Lite in the garage, the money you save could afford you a POE switch.

I dont have any experience with the Eero, however, it will still fall short of a dedicated AP. Those wifi mesh systems are meant to be turn key for someone who just wants something plug and play. So if your uncomfortable setting up the Nano's the Eero or even Ubiquiti's own Amplifi setup may be more to your liking. Just remember they won't be able to push nearly as much speed as a dedicated AP can.

There are lots of great guides that can easily walk you through Ubiquiti's controller online if you have any questions. The video I linked has some extra hardware but you can still follow along if you want to install the controller on a PC to configure the AP's, then once there are setup you can uninstall the controller and have them run without it. You only need the controller to configure Unifi devices and to record telemetry.

Best of luck with the new Fiber!

> I'll need to find a PoE switch strong enough to power all these devices

Ubiquiti Networks 8-Port UniFi Switch, Managed PoE+ Gigabit Switch with SFP, 150W (US-8-150W)

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Managed-Gigabit-US-8-150W/dp/B01DKXT4CI/ref=sr_1_19?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1541701054&sr=1-19&keywords=poe+switch

55 watt TP Link:

TP-Link TL-SG1005P 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet PoE Desktop Switch with 4-PoE Ports, 55W IEEE 802.3af compliant.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-SG1005P-Gigabit-Ethernet-compliant/dp/B076HZFY3F/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1541701054&sr=1-8&keywords=poe+switch
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-SG1005P-Gigabit-Ethernet-compliant/dp/B076HZFY3F/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1541701054&sr=1-8&keywords=poe+switch

96 watts:

BV-Tech 10 Port PoE+ Industrial DIN Rail Switch (8 PoE+ Ports | Gigabit Ethernet & SFP Uplink) – 96W – 802.3at

https://www.amazon.com/BV-Tech-Industrial-Switch-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B075FZQX14/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1541701054&sr=1-4&keywords=poe+switch

A lot of POE switches at amazon, you can sort through:

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_st_review-rank?keywords=poe+switch&rh=n%3A172282%2Ck%3Apoe+switch&qid=1541701042&sort=review-rank

Get some of these and try doing PoE:

https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Outdoor-Weatherproof-Enclosure-Cabinet/dp/B0042ZKWBG

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-ZoneFlex-Unleashed-Dual-Band-9U1-R310-US02/dp/B01FV0OIJM

https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Waterproof-Ethernet-Direct-Shielded/dp/B002HFKSS0

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-SG1005P-Gigabit-Ethernet-compliant/dp/B076HZFY3F

The APs are special ones that have a software based antenna that improves range. They are the lower end (but newer) versions of this:

https://www.evdoinfo.com/content/view/5077/64/

The enclosures is intended to make it safe to use them outdoors. The outdoor cable can be buried (although it should go below the frost line). The switch is designed to power the APs. If the cables are not long enough, you will need outdoor range extenders and a beefier switch that supports 802.3at to provide the additional power needed by the range extender. These would work:

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Repeater-Amplifier-Ethernet-TPE-E100/dp/B00SDFF6S0

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Unmanaged-Rackmount-Lifetime-Protection/dp/B07788WK5V

If you need to go even further than 200m, you could probably run your own dedicated low voltage DC powerlines alongside armored fiber cable and use media converters to convert from fiber to twisted pair. You would need a switch that supports SFP modules and to get a SFP transceiver for each end.

I'm using https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076HZFY3F/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks for your reply Ben. Yes I have eth1-4 on switch0. I set up a firewall rule for eth0/in that drops all traffic from source 192.168.1.18 (camera IP), which seems to block internet access for the device.


However I will soon be getting three more cameras and an unmanaged POE switch, so I think it will be a good idea to configure a more robust solution than just blocking internet for all 4 camera IP addresses.

Essentially I want to block all 4 cameras from accessing the internet and any other device on my LAN, but make the cameras' RTSP feeds (and admin page) accessible from a certain device 192.168.1.240 on my LAN (which is my Raspberry Pi running motionEye.) Your help is appreciated.

You can get this at Amazon. There's a $2.00 coupon that brings it to near the same price as NewEgg.

I have this : https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-8-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B07PFYM5MZ/

Would I be able to set it up to use for the devices connect to this ?

Nope, modem - PC - switch - ALL DEVICES (APs and additional switches if you want)

Here's the switch I got - it's on sale now. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PFYM5MZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You will need another switch or hub or router. If you were to use a splitter or somehow splice the cables together, you would end up with a giant amount of packet collision.

Basically your router would see two devices on one port trying to send info and your router would send both of the devices the info which is going to crazy bog down your network if it even functions properly.

You can buy one of these from amazon or you could setup some sort of ad-hoc network device, but you will see better performance and have less setup/headache with the dumb-switch.

Hey, thanks! I was looking at that one,

the GS305 https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-8-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B07S98YLHM/?th=1

and this GS808e https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-Streaming-Advanced-Ethernet/dp/B01MU3GE5L/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=netgear+gs808e&qid=1568765089&s=gateway&sr=8-1

I'm willing to spend the extra for the 808e, but is it worth it?

++ u/OtherTechnician

First, get a network hub like this and you wont need to unplug any cable.

If your using windows 10 just plug the cable in correctly then turn off the PC and turn it back on again. That usually takes care of the issue

You're welcome! If that's what fixed it, awesome. As others have suggested, getting a small switch (https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-5-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B07S98YLHM as an example) will prevent this from being an issue in the future, since the PC and the Xbox will stay connected, and won't need the be swapped out all the time.

Since it was both devices, I suspect the switch on the other end of your wired connection triggered some kind of lockout from re-associating too many times, or in too short of a period, but that's only barely graduated from a wild guess at this point.

Something like this?


NETGEAR 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch (GS305) - Desktop, Sturdy Metal Fanless Housing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S98YLHM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1EQKDb6A5EA2C

Yep, just pick up an unmanaged switch and plug the Ethernet cable from the modem/router into the switch and then the PC and PS4 Ethernet cables into the switch. It'll all talk to each other automatically and you have to do nothing.

A router isn't what you need, you need a switch:
NETGEAR 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch (GS305) - Desktop, Sturdy Metal Fanless Housing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S98YLHM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_32sUDbMQMTMED

A router adds lots of functions you don't need or want. Run fast.com on a computer plugged directly into the line first though because your connection just might be really slow

• Rack
  
• Punch panel
  
• switch

Generally, 8-port switch is desktop switch. I am curious about what a 8 or 12 port rack mountable gigabit switch is used for. Maybe this TP-Link 16-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch fit your needs. (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002HAJQGA/ref=psdc_281414_t3_B004EIFCHK)

If you got 8 buddies coming... 16 port maybe?

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Rackmount-TL-SG1016/dp/B002HAJQGA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1511103911&sr=8-5&keywords=16+port+switch

1 port is for the router, so on an 8 port you only have 7 available. Then depending on how you set things up, I like to have a dedicated server PC. Games that support a hosted server goes on that, pre-configured in router for forwarding, and that is the PC that is also open up to file sharing so friends can grab the game, patches, mods, etc.

This is a pretty decent deal. I've had good luck with the TP Link products I've used. I currently have a couple of their smaller switches in service and they're working just fine.

That said, I agree with the other comments about Monoprice.com.

Your setup sounds exactly like what I'm about to move into. I can't afford to do this quite yet (because of just moving into a new house) but my plan is:

• ARRIS SURFboard SB6190 - this is compatible with Comcast's 200Mbps service. If you're getting slower service, check their compatibility list for a cheaper version
  
• Ubiquiti EdgeRouter Lite
  
• TP-Link 16-Port Switch - obviously if you're going to need more connections, get a bigger switch. I only need 16 for now
  
• Ubiquiti Unifi AP AC Lite
  
• Leftover wifi router set to AP-only mode for the basement since I only care about wifi in one room there
  
  Run wires to every fixed location (TVs, desktop, server, all wifi access points, anywhere you think you might put a computer). Set up the APs on different channels but with the same SSID and security. That will allow devices to roam between them.

Thank you again . I was actually going to daisy chain phones and pcs and now that you mentioned I will connect them to separate ports.
This is the Linksys I'm going to use: http://www.linksys.com/us/p/P-LGS116/
and this is the TP-Link I was talking about: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Rackmount-TL-SG1016/dp/B002HAJQGA

This is pretty much what my setup looks like, although with tons more devices and small switches scattered around the house xD. My primary switch is one of these, but they have a cheaper 8-port as well. Most of my gear is in a closet so I have a fan looming over it on low, keeping things cool. Also, putting it all on a UPS means that you can finish sendind that email (or wrapping up that online game) if the power goes out, very handy.

I do not have an Ubiquiti AP yet. From what I know they use PoE, but somehow I doubt they ship with no way to power them out of the box. I have heard they do not play very well with Apple products, in which case I would suggest an AirPort Express (or Time Capsule for that wonderful 24/7 backup) as an additional AP.

The EdgeRouter setup tutorials on the Wiki are designed for WAN on port 0, LAN on port 1, and WLAN on port 2, which would mean the AP would plug right into the router. I personally did not do this, I mixed the LAN and WAN and connected exactly as your picture shows. Let me know if you need any help setting it up.

By satellites I'm referring to dish satellites that you may want to mount on the exterior of the house for any cable service you want such as DirecTV and similar providers. Here's a picture.

If you wish to have the ability to hot swap the Internet feed to any room at any time, all you need to do is find the coax cable that currently runs into the house. From there, you extend that cable with this coupler only if the cable doesn't reach your preferred central point, and then that goes to the central point. So then all the coaxial cables are heading to the central point, you should always label regardless of how much you think you memorize where each cable heads to. Now you do the same thing, get the coaxial with the ISP feed, put a coupler on it and pick the corresponding coaxial cable the modem will be in and attach it to the coupler. Like I mentioned before, I would recomneed having the modem sit in the central point. It'll have the same outcome as if you were putting it in a room but this just ensures all your equipment is one place and prevents you running longer cables from one point to another because the modem is in one room and the central point is another.

Now for the ethernet wiring, one hole slightly bigger the size of a golf ball should do for coaxial and ethernet. This is an example of a good install. All the cabling goes to one location in the house, the cables are securely punched down to a patch panel which the patch panel is securely mounted on a wall rack. Here's some items that will get you a clean and professional look while not breaking the bank:

• Wall mountable 6u rack
  
• 24-port Cat6 patch panel
  
• Power distribution - A good old surge protector will do the trick, this just gives a clean look and is more reliable.
  
• 24 port ethernet switch - This is to activate all the ethernet ports throughout the house.

I was looking at this TP-Link:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BU0EKW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GRswzbGTHG9TG

But only 5 year warranty.

This Netgear has lifetime warranty:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002CWPW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TSswzbEF9ZDNZ


Is the TP-Link still the better choice? If so, why?

I'm also getting fiber (1Gig).

I plan on running the following at 100% cpu 24/7 most of the time.

• i7 920 + 1x 3.5 HDD (+ GT 640 if I do CUDA/OpenCL work)
  
• i7 720QM laptop (monitor forced off, gpu idle)
  
• 2x E5-2670 + 1x 3.5 HDD
  
• i7 4770 with 4x 3.5 HDD & 2x SSD + GTX 950 (workstation/battlestation/node controller in vbox)
  
• A6-5400K with 3x 3.5 & 1x SSD (my old multi-purpose server I downgraded because the A8-660K ran too hot in a 2U)
  
  I currently use an old WRT54G and a 4-port TP-Link gigabit switch, that'll be upgraded to this 24 port and my A6 will take the blunt of internet passthru once again.
  
  I use 3 monitors (2x 1080's and a 5:4 lcd vga monitor that use to be on a KVM switch for my 2U server and laptop when needed).
  
  I also have a random assortment of a 60W picoITX 5.25 bay computer, an old HTPC, and possibly an old Core 2 Duo that can easily be retrofitted into a 2U. I don't plan on using them (low CPU performance per watt) unless I go big or go home.
  
  I just need to stop using laptops on wifi.
  
  Basically anything with at least 4GB of ram and a passmark of 5K+ I plan on plugging in.

TP-LINK TL-SG1024 10/100/1000Mbps 24-Port Gigabit 19-inch Rackmountable Switch, 48Gbps Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BU0EKW/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_9kgSub067FXZH
They are not managed switches though. Was not needed for this install. But those hp 1810 are very reasonable for a managed switch
Thanks for the tip!

I think staying with 6 is fine. Most people will say if you are wiring now to go with 6a because the cost is similar but I find it is thicker and harder to bend. If you really want to future proof then you could go with 6a but right know 10Gbps is a little excessive.


AP wise you call Ubiquity expensive but the newest UAP-AC-PRO is the same price as the Linksys and will be much better, it is hard to find now because of limited supply. Sorry Its actually $20 more



I would spend a little extra for the Edgerouter Lite over the X but they are similar.



Unless I missed it I don't think you mentioned how many wall jacks you will have. So I will assume 24 drops. A good 24 port non POE switch is This normally $160 is on sale for $100
And This for POE only 8 ports though

EDIT

Sorry didn't release the netgear switch wasn't all POE you might be better off with a cheap 8-10 Port switch and POE Injectors


Like /u/topcat5 said you can get UAP-AC-LITE for $90.

Sounds like the unmanaged switch will be fine for you. TP-Link 24-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Rackmount Switch (TL-SG1024) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BU0EKW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ArBLzbNXRX2T2
Something like this

Yes, but that doesn't mean you need to have them all connected. Just run the cables from each room to a central location and label them all. Then you only need to plug the ones you are going to use into the switch.

You can get a 24 port switch pretty cheap though if you want to connect them all.

https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Unmanaged-Rackmount-Lifetime-TL-SG1024/dp/B003BU0EKW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1506691857&sr=8-3&keywords=24+port+switch

Looks like this should fit the bill TP-Link 24-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch | Plug and Play | Metal | Rackmount | Fanless | Limited Lifetime (TL-SG1024) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BU0EKW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sjQOCbDZKNSJY

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-8-Port-Ethernet-Desktop-TL-SF1008P/dp/B003CFATT2?ie=UTF8&keywords=8%20port%20switch%20poe&psc=1&qid=1465493225&ref_=sr_1_2&sr=8-2-spons

http://www.amazon.com/Cisco-SG200-08P-8-port-Gigabit-SLM2008PT-NA/dp/B004OA6VUA?ie=UTF8&keywords=8%20port%20switch%20poe%20SG200&qid=1465493270&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

I looked at the Hikvision-DS-2CD2032 and it is a great picture and the price doesn't hurt my wallet. When I looked it up at amazon it suggested that I also get these
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Gigabit-Injector-compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I/ref=pd_bxgy_p_text_y

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-SF1008P-100Mbps-8-Port-802-3af/dp/B003CFATT2/ref=pd_bxgy_p_text_z

since im thinking of getting 3 cameras do I need them?

POE switch includes more than one POE Injector.

Is this the NVR model you purchased:
https://us.ezvizlife.com/item/Everyday-IP-1080p/258.html?from=&position=tab

Does the DVR not have POE RJ45 ports? If not, for up to four cameras, I would get: https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-SF1008P-100Mbps-Desktop-802-3af/dp/B003CFATT2/

I found the Ubiquiti ones are expensive so i went with TP Link instead...

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Lifetime-TL-SF1008P/dp/B003CFATT2

Its only a 10/100 switch but the bandwidth is plenty fine for IP cameras. I went with 4 port POE as i only need 4 cameras but they do carry more version also.

Sorry for all the questions. Did some more looking. How would this be for a dummy switch?
TP-Link 8-Port

Thought having POE would be nice to just have and reduce the amount of cables and stuff in the back. It seemed that the 802.3af matched up with the ac lite and pro.

You could get a few Amcrest POE 3MP for ~$100 each

Add on a simple POE switch for ~$44

Adding an NVR will get you to the higher amount listed by /u/pern5150 , but you can always add that later if you use subscription now.

I believe most any will work. You will need to source the power cord yourself. I use these for "around the house" switches, it supports 100-240V.

Windows 10 PC, I'm not sure what required specs are, I have a 6-7 year old machine with an i5 or i7 and 8gb ram.

I use this tp link 8 port switch, only 4 are POE, so you could only support up to 4 cameras with it.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CFATT2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also have the BlueIRis Iphone app.

I have it set to record for 2 weeks and auto delete files older than 2 weeks on the computers hard drive.

I also have a 50GB box.com account that I use their software "Box Drive" on the computer. Box Drive basically sets up a virtual folder that syncs any files dropped into it to the cloud and then deletes the local data automatically. You just need a box account and download box drive, login to the software on the pc and go. https://www.box.com/resources/downloads/drive

I have blueiris store any "triggered" recordings into box drive, so any motion. Then it will auto delete these files after 2 weeks.

Like /u/heeero said. I've used POE switches like this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005BSR4PU/
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CFATT2/

That sends power over the ethernet (POE) to your camera. Your camera needs to have POE on board, or you can use this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CFATQK/

That "splits" the ethernet from power, and you can use that to connect a non-POE camera to a POE switch. Very nice, small (like pack of cigarettes).

There's also this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZA0FU0/

That's non-standard POE, uses 20v instead of 40v. Can't use it with POE cameras or switches, basically a standalone thing. Very nice if you only have one non POE camera you want to hook up.

POE is really nice. The reliability of hardwire, the convenience of a single ethernet cord.

I just used some cheap PoE switches as I needed two of them and they were only going to be used for the cameras and not other types of traffic. I ended up with the TP-LINK TL-SF1008P 10/100Mbps 8-Port PoE Switch.

Now that I'm more educated, it might have been nice to have something I could login to remotely and toggle the PoE status to manually reboot cameras if needed. But that might have blown the budget anyway.

You need a power source for the Cameras. With PoE IP Cameras, you can give them power over the same cable that is used for data. But you need a PoE switch. Having a separate PoE switch is highly advisable, so your normal network traffic doesn't conflict with the camera traffic. Also, put this on a backup battery, so your cameras, network, and DVR work during a power outage.

TP-LINK TL-SF1008P 10/100Mbps 8-Port PoE Switch, 4 POE ports,
http://amzn.com/B003CFATT2

Thank you! I was able to find this!

TP-LINK TL-R470T+ Load Balance Broadband Router https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005SYQBN8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_b69lDbR76PQBX

I think what you want is a load balancing router that can handle multiple incoming connections as opposed to running ethernet to two different cards in the computer. Running 2 different ethernet cables really isn't very efficient use.

Depending on your needs obviously (wifi, 1gb traffic, etc), a basic load balancing router: http://www.amazon.com/TP-link-TL-R470T-Internal-Universal-Broadband/dp/B005SYQBN8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465147440&sr=8-1&keywords=tplink+load+balance

This way you have 2 internet connections (WAN) coming in and you can set to load balance where if one connection is bogged down due to something you are doing (youtube), it'll switch and use the other connection for other tasks so you don't have any slowdown. Its all very highly configurable.

I think something like this is really what you should be looking at as opposed to another ethernet card.

But that’s not what I’m suggesting at all. I’ve bridged the WiFi and ethernet to my home PC. I could easily just share that out.

Or I could put a bridge (which is not that expensive) after the router and have it bridge the signals. Like this...

TP-Link SafeStream TL-R470T+ Fast Ethernet Load Balance Broadband Router, Multi-WAN, 96M NAT throughput, 30k Concurrent Sessions, 256 DHCP Clients https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005SYQBN8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_P0zgAb23YDVR9

What you’re suggesting would work but is way overkill imo.

https://www.amazon.com/slp/load-balancing-router/v9pu9ck437yc8ov

No longer a Linksys fan, but there is this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Linksys-Business-Gigabit-Router-LRT224/dp/B00GK640D6

Sixty bucks:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-SafeStream-TL-R470T-Broadband-pass-through/dp/B005SYQBN8?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Safestream-TL-ER6020/dp/B00A8NWU70?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_10

Found a good one here . Does this take as input 3 internet connections? Thank you. :-)

Alright thanks I'll look into this then. Do you know of any good-cheap routers off the top of your head that can let me setup a profile and make league packets have priority? like this? from one of my other comments. Or will it need to be a more expensive one. I know that one has QoS capabilities. And then this has load balancing capabilities (idk if those are the same thing lol).

$50 device

NE_TP-Link TL-R470T+

AMZ_TP-Link TL-R470T+

----

Bob's review

Review of device w/ 4G tethered

2nd review kinda loud, decibel alert!

-----

• How to accomplish your goal
  
  Set up Load Balance to aggregate several WAN links
  
  Configure IP Routing on Dual WAN
  
  Steam services IP list US
  
  Steam services IP list International
  
  Good luck! ~ Bluddy

Dual WAN router is the easiest way to do this. I have used. TP-Link TL-R470T+ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005SYQBN8/

There is 3 WAN version too.

by the time you purchase the additional nics you might have well bought the [TP-Link SafeStream TL-R470T+ Fast Ethernet Load Balance Broadband Router, supports up to 4 WAN ports /VPN pass-through/ IPv6 routing] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005SYQBN8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iab.AbMMAPNY8). good for load balancing (true bonding is NOT possible unless you use speedify as like service)

This is good if you have 2 slow connections of the same speed and reliability.
if you have fast modern broadb as nd speeds, they also have a gigabit model for 150

Here is what you need to do. Step by step.

1. Remove the cable connecting from the modem to your router and connect a laptop instead.
   
2. Use the Public IP you use on your router on your laptop
   
3. See if you have an active internet connection.
   
4. If yes, then your ISP is not the problem.
   
   Now for your redundancy, yes you can use the ATT Wireless and have it failover automatically using a loadbalancer device.
   
   Here is the device we are using and is very cheap.
   
   TP-LINK Safestream TL-470T+ 10/100 Broadband Desktop Loadbalance Router
   
   You can use up to 4 different ISP here.
   
   ​
   
   Once you are confident that the WAN is working as expected, only then you can fix your problem internally (firewall, DNS, URL blocking etc)

And if you put this device conspicuously in your living room like their marketing suggests you should, but you don't want to have all of those cables coming out the back, you can buy this breakout box for only $15.

If you only need a wired connection, an Unmanaged Switch would do the job (something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/D-Link-Gigabit-Desktop-Switch-GO-SW-5G/dp/B008PC1FYK/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1481017735&sr=8-8&keywords=wired+router+gigabit).

If you want to the option of a wireless connection, go for a Wireless Router (https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-LINK-TL-WR841N-Wireless-Transmission-Encryptions/dp/B001FWYGJS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1481018297&sr=8-3&keywords=wireless+router).

Duh, a switch. Thank you. Getting the smallest one I can hopefully it'll fit in the network box.

Just get a switch like this one.

https://www.amazon.com/d/Networking-Switches/D-Link-5-Port-Unmanaged-Gigabit-GO-SW-5G/B008PC1FYK/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1543551688&sr=1-5&keywords=network+switch+10%2F100%2F1000

This one has gigabit so worth $5 more.
and yes, this can be in your room. Run the 1 to your room, then split it with this.

That must be why 10GbE is starting to appear on consumer switches, and the upper end of consumer gear.

Thecus, QNAP and other NAS manufacturers now have low-cost models that ship with 10GBase-T installed from the factory

Reason: A single run of the mill HDD can totally saturate gigabit Ethernet

Got it. Enjoy your "office with 12 people."

Hahahaha $1800 each, just buy a switch.
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-XS708E-Ethernet-XS708E-100NES/dp/B00B46AEE6

Nice find though.

Netgear for the router (there are used Qsap Lv 2switches from Facebook that are 10GbE, as well as the Mikrotik Cloudrouter, but the Netgear should be the easiest to setup and get working).

/r/homelab might help too with the server build.

As for the CPU itself, why not Xeon? ECC RAM should help its reliability. Speed of said RAM is hardly noticeable.

SSD: It's weird to have M2 drives be RAID 1, since I don't think you can hot swap those out. Nevertheless, it's a solid choice.

Finally, PSU, just get the best you can buy.

Silentpcreview's 4K Build is pretty recent; you can choose the PSU and case they recommend.

http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-XS708E-Ethernet-XS708E-100NES/dp/B00B46AEE6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1462389887&sr=1-1&keywords=10gb+switch

To be fair Google's 10Gbps fiber is about three years away, not one. A switch for your home to support 7 PCs still costs $800. 10Gbase-T adapters for PCs are also still expensive, though in three years they will be less so - or standard. They won't have to replace the fiber though. The same single-mode fiber they are running to every home supports speeds up to 100Gbps already, and probably more eventually.

Agree that the current providers don't want to build it.

Thanks for adding your voice to the conversation- lots of really helpful stuff in there. Now that I've got you roped in...... a few more questions!

1. So there's no issue with multiple stations reading the same video files if they're loaded into an editing program? I thought that it was impossible to for two computers to read a file at the same time. Maybe I'm confusing it with file writing.
   
   
2. What is ZFS snapshot? I'm assuming a time machine sort of thing. How much space does it require? Easy to setup?
   
   
3. Is it possible to get a switch with only 1 or 2 10GbE connections at a cheaper price (around $200)? I see that netgear has a solid looking 8 10GbE switch for $750 here, but I'm not sure it's even necessary to inflate my budget so every workstation has 10GbE connection. We have a specific computer that backs up media from SD cards/etc so I'd only need that one station on a 10GbE connection (plus a 10GbE incoming feed from the server of course).
   
   
4. Do you think a cache SSD is necessary? /u/Master_Scythe seems to think so, but I spoke with someone else who doesn't think I would need a cache drive since the nature of video editing means I won't be constantly using the same files on a regular basis like in a website server.
   
   
   
   Ok so here is my planned setup: let me know if the price is realistic.
   
   Corsair 10 bay PC case ($100) + Ryzen CPU ($250) + asus mobo ($200) + 32GB ECC Ram ($100) + PSU ($100)
   
   PC Cost: $750
   10GbE card: $200
   Raid Rocket Controller: $300
   10GbE Ethernet switch used (recommendations?): $400
   8x 8TB WD Red drives = 8 x $180 = $1500
   
   $3150 for a 64TB RAID Z2 which would equate to 40TB usable, or 30TB real world w/ 20% performance buffer.
   
   Any other hidden costs you can think of? All other stations would be at 1GbE probably.
   

Simple, just put a $850 switch by every set of home machines.

Hmm, I may have to get a switch then if that's the case... Do you happen to know of one that isn't like over $4,000 and would work for my use case? Would this one work http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-XS708E-Ethernet-XS708E-100NES/dp/B00B46AEE6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1453737111&sr=8-3&keywords=10+gigabit+switch ?

I will only order one after I verify that end-to-end connectivity won't work like I think it will...

With that said, there is literally a guy in this thread who has a Windows desktop like me with two 10 gigabit ports and connects them to two different servers on the same subnet... It is literally a point-to-point/direct connection, how would that not work for file sharing? He showed me a screenshot of his speeds while filesharing and he definitely takes advantage of his 10 gigabit connection, hes using Windows on his desktop and isn't using a switch..

The cheapest 10GE copper switch that I know of is the NETGEAR ProSAFE XS708E 8-Port 10G Ethernet Switch 8 Ports $850

https://www.reddit.com/r/homelab/comments/84bv8d/lets_talk_about_switchesmuffins_switch_101/

lists some, And there are plenty more out there if you look around. Like this level 2 only switch with vlans:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CUG8ESM/

You can tag packets on the individual systems.

https://wiki.ubuntu.com/vlan

https://www.startech.com/faq/networking_VLAN_tagging

I don't know if this will work in your case but it's worth a shot.

edit: or you can get an inexpensive managed switch like this https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-24-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-TL-SG1024DE/dp/B00CUG8ESM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1500405274&sr=8-2&keywords=24+port+managed+gigabit+switch

Well. Let’s see here. I first purchased this antenna and this mast holder once I made the decision this year to cut the cord. Reading this sub, I quickly realized that I could use this mast amplifier to obtain about 10 more channels and this distribution amplifier to run the signals into 7 rooms of my house.

I configured and tested my setup in the middle of the summer thunderstorm season so I installed this UPS to prevent the brownouts that were occurring all too often during this time. I still had two television sets that were analog/CRT, so I purchased this set top converter which gave me the added bonus of Broadcast DVR when I purchased this flash drive to plug into them.
I then purchased two Roku3 units to supplement my broadcast programming. I also discovered that even when using a dual band router , I was only able to obtain a reliable 18 Mbit wireless stream in my far bedrooms from my Laundry Room equipment location. While this was sufficient for managing two simultaneous streams of HD for now, I was concerned that we would need to have 3 or 4 simultaneous streams or need to upgrade for UltraHD in the next year or so. I then purchased some Cat5e cable and ran 3 separate cables to each of 7 rooms and centralized all the lines into this switch which acted as my Ethernet distribution network.

I had an idle desktop PC with an AMD FX-8350 processor which I upgraded with gigabit LAN, 8GB DDR3 RAM, and five 3TB Disk Drives. I installed Plex Media Server based on recommendations from this sub and I have been torrenting like a madman to fill a little more than half this disk space in the past 4 months. I connected the media server to my Ethernet switch via a Gigabit link and have had no issues with lag even while transcoding on the fly. I plan to purchase some more streaming devices which will probably be Roku3 or Chromecast units depending upon the price and suitability.

My next step is to look at high quality music streaming and how I might integrate some vintage (1980s) audio equipment into this setup.

Sorry, it's this one. Hyperlink was tossed when copy/pasting.

Would this be a good switch? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CUG8ESM/ref=crt_ewc_title_gw_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

It's what I am doing as well. My server has only one port. What you need is a managed switch like http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-Gigabit-Managed-GS108E-300NAS/dp/B00M1C0186?ie=UTF8&keywords=netgear%20switch&qid=1464365215&ref_=sr_1_8&s=pc&sr=1-8

I have two Vlans. One is for the modem and the other is for the rest of the network.

TP-link makes OK stuff in a pinch, but I would look towards something like..

https://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-1920-JG923A-16-Port-Managed-Gigabit-Layer-3-Switch/302715238253?hash=item467b3bf76d:g:Eq8AAOSw8zNa3nNX

Or if you're on the cheap
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Gigabit-Lifetime-Protection-GS108Ev3/dp/B00M1C0186/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1525047885&sr=1-3&keywords=netgear+managed+switch

What you want is.. VLANS and LACP. LACP will allow you to take advantage of the multiple NICs on your server.

Using this with VLAN's will be like having 8 network cards to segment your network: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Gigabit-Lifetime-Protection-GS108Ev3/dp/B00M1C0186/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=netgear+vlan+switch&qid=1569007589&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Here's a cheap Netgear Managed Gigabit switch.

THIS looks really nice for a cheap, managed switch for a starting homelab. It seems to have basic vlan and port administration, web interface seems pretty decent but I don't really have experience with Netgear.

Nice. I do the same thing with an instance of Security Onion, but I would like to implement Splunk or an ELK stack as soon as I have more time. I use this switch because it's cheap and it supports port mirroring (https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-Gigabit-Managed-GS108E-300NAS/dp/B00M1C0186). I have a Ubiquiti ERX connected to my Cable modem and I use my old Asus wireless router as an AP.

There is a Netgear WNR3500L which is $35 USD that seems to have some good reviews. Since it runs OpenWRT it should give you all kinds of capability, including vlans. However, you will have to configure it of course (do your homework). You could also consider a managed switch like the Netgear GS108E in the out years to amplify what you want to do (also look at the Netgear GS108T as well, just a little more money). I am using four GS108Ts in my home network with around 8 vlans for various purposes.

Ubiquity APs get power through ethernet, which is usually trivial for companies that use enterprise/SOHO-grade switches. For consumers, you can have what's called a PoE injector provide power to an Ubiquity AP. The Injector would reside in the same room as the AirPort and be "in-line" for the connection between the AirPort and AP.

You can also have a network switch that also has PoE injectors that the ethernet cable that runs to the AP connects to. Then, the network switch connects to your home router (which I assume is the AirPort). The network switch option would be better if you have multiple APs in your home and/or multiple network drops, since I doubt the AirPort has that many ethernet ports on the back.

Disclaimer: the items I linked are examples. They're what I'd personally use, but you're free to use another brand if you'd prefer.

You can have the NETGEAR ProSAFE GS108PE 8-Port Gigabit PoE Web Managed (Plus) Switch with 4 PoE Ports 53W (GS108PE-300NAS) with a price of 99$ on Amazon. Configure VLAN, QoS, IGMP Snooping, rate limiting and traffic monitoring on the switch, which might be suitable for you!

Here is the link for your reference: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-GS108PE-Gigabit-GS108PE-300NAS/dp/B00M1C03U2/ref=sr_1_10?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1473834803&sr=1-10&keywords=8+port+managed+switch

You're welcome.

Oh, Power over Ethernet (PoE)? Well, I'm just learning about it myself actually. What you need to know is to accomplish PoE, for say, a security camera, you'll need a PoE Switch like this one. The power this switch gets is able to send power through the ethernet cables (cat6 in your case) to the device. So, it basically works like this:
Ac Adaptor plug > A powered PoE switch > Cat6 (now powered) > Poe Device (like a security camera).

Ah, in that case I'd say just go with a regular Netgear switch or something - aside from the controller integration on the Unifi line, their switches don't really bring much to the table.

Wifi adapters for the printers is the easiest solution here if the printers must also be online. The phone and pc have the hardwired connection which is stable and fast, but printing is fine on a slower connection. You can get these little dongles that connect to your wifi but present an ethernet port to your printer. Some printer models can have a wifi module installed, but the 3rd party dongle is universal.

Also you can, arguably drop a switch at every desk. At the minimum it should be Poe to power that phone and be managed. I could see using something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-Gigabit-Managed-GS108PE-300NAS/dp/B00M1C03U2


I imagine this will be a configuration and support headache as these things can be buggy and probably will need to be replaced every x amount of years on top of having failures now and again that require lots of spares. But they sure beat unmanaged switches.

Or toss in a USB ethernet adapter, plug the printer, and bridge the internet connection. No idea if removing the laptop from the dock breaks this setup or the bridge autmatically reconnects when they dock. I would consider this solution pretty buggy and support heavy.

Is there any cabling already aside from your ethernet cable? Sub-cat5 phone cabling? Old digital phone twisted pair? Coax? If so you can buy adapters that make those lines work like ethernet, its a bit like running your own DSL network (vdsl per cube is expensive but oddly enough coax ethernet is cheap). The results and speeds vary but would provide enough mbps to run that printer. If its cat3 then you can run 10mbps over it with no adapters, sure that's slow, but a large-ish 50megabyte print job will take 40 seconds. You may need train staff to learn to wait for 'larger' print jobs, not sure if that's a deal breaker Might want to make sure the printer actually supports 10mbps first. It might only be 100/1000. Also, I believe if you have all 4 pairs of CAT3 available you can get a stable 100mbps at reasonable distances which solves the slowness issue, but dont quote me on that.

Personally, if I had to do this today I'd get wifi>ethernet dongles if I couldn't get 100mbps working on the existing phone cables that I'm assuming your voip solution is replacing.

> I'd just add that if you wanted to go (mostly) all-in on UniFi, but not go crazy and spend too much $, you could forgo the switch and just use any cheap unmanaged switch.

In fact, I recommended these two for my folks, one of which is unmanaged and the other lightly managed, but both with PoE: the D-Link DGS1008P or the Netgear GS108E. Problem is that some of the APs are not exactly 802.3-compliant, so you might end up needing a little in-line convertor.

No prob- I really don't like crazy annoying neighbors too so I sympathize with you on the battle :)

I use this one in my attic: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M1C03U2
Anything that is to POE standard will work. Do be sure you get a camera that supports PoE. They are a bit more but make for a much easier install. Injectors work too, just will need more wiring.

The problem with DVR boxes like the Amcrest mentioned is they aren't really upgradeable and I don't think they'll have near the feature set that a PC running BI will. With that said however, they are MUCH simpler which is a plus.

Excellent choice on the Camera. I have one of that model and it's great. Great bang for the buck and super small.

I agree that a DVR would be the fastest setup. I've never used any of the cloud services primarily because of companies like Foscam's track record of being hacked.


As far as I understand the numbers, a single 4 megapixel camera like that Amcrest will require roughly 12 megabits of bandwidth for full resolution. You connection being 12mbps down is most likely 2-4mbps up.(Gotta love comcast...) This will make real-time remote viewing difficult. There are two tools for this issue.

1. You can transcode the live feed into a more efficient, lower resolution, higher compression feed. BlueIris does a good job of this.
   
2. You can record and store the clips in full resolution and gradually upload them to cloud storage if required.
   
   You'll find that 99% of the time the cameras will be recording nothing so keeping footage of nothing is often pointless.
   
   My setup is this at home: I have a camera overlooking my driveway and another over my front door. The front door camera will detect when someone is at the door and "trigger". This will record the last 10 seconds of both the front door and driveway cameras while also sending an email to me with still photos from each camera. The number of times i've caught UPS/USPS/Fedex dropping my packages has been disturbing... Anyway, this setup requires very little disk because it's only recording when it detects motion. At any time I can go back and see all the motion events and play them in full resolution for either camera.
   
   If I'm not mistaken, the distance limit for Cat6 is 328ft. Given that you're going to be needing performance for multiple cameras, I would err on the side of safety and use one or two switches. Over distance, your performance may degrade but still should be within acceptable limits. There is also a distance limit for PoE, might need to keep that in mind too.
   
   My other tip would be that you'll need to be mindful of security here too. Make sure to use a firewall and do not open the cameras themselves up to the internet as the firmware is often insecure. Only open the feed from your DVR/BI box and not the actual cameras themselves.
   
   Good luck!

Would this be a better option for POE?

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UniFi-Switch-Managed-US-24-250W/dp/B00OJZUQ24/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=unifi+24+port+poe+switch+250w&qid=1567047431&s=gateway&sprefix=unifi+24+&sr=8-3





Is this what you mean for the router

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeRouter-4-Port-Gigabit-ER-4-US/dp/B078PGCGN2


If I buy two of these and the router above would it give me full wifi now until I have the opportunity to run the wire.


https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=AC-LITE&qid=1567047624&s=gateway&sr=8-2



Do I need a cloud key for the APs or just the Switch?

I would get something a little easier to configure. Cisco switches are mainly configured through the command line and unless you're willing to put the time in to learn the commands it could be a little daunting.

Get something more prosumer like Ubiquiti, it's not quite enterprise level and much easier to configure. How many ports do you need? 48? Or do you think you could get by with 24? There is a big difference in price. If you only need 24, something like this would serve you well. The 48 port is about twice as much.

Google Drive link to my not-at-all-to-scale sketch of my house layout:

​

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YvEAR5fqrfXGhGJsIqO11eeZ8V9n-6iOWQ/view?usp=sharing

​

The house is only 1500 sq ft and is pretty well rectangular. Given the centricity of the garage, it would be very easy to run lines through the attic to each area that a drop is needed.

​

Several people have recommended Netgear and Ubiquiti switches and some have made mention that they are using their switch in fairly high temp conditions. I saw on Amazon that I can get a Ubiquiti switch (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OJZUQ24/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3LGJ9ZB5RSN9T) with a 4 year Amazon extended warranty (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DZDV41S/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A22THKZGTXL0ED) for $50 that covers the switch. Plus the warranty kicks in after the manufacturer's warranty expires. If I read the warranty's fine print correctly, that will provide some nice peace of mind.

​

I'm thinking that I'll go this route and I can figure out ways to mitigate heat in the garage. I'm already considering some insulation panels for the garage door and some renovations in the attic/roof so perhaps I'll be able to save some electricity and keep my garage cool.

Here is the post for archival purposes:

Author: thaikarma2

Content:

> Netgear 16 port

> https://www.amazon.ca/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=pdu30bhvt8r

>Will feed 6 Antminers s9's 3 on each 2 240volts circuits.

>powers source will be the APW++ so 3 each will be on one 240 volt curcuit

>The power cable i need to connect the APW++ to the PDU would be C14-13? to connect the APW the PDU?

>Will i burn my house down?

https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-PDU30BHVT8R-8-Outlets-L6-30P-Distribution/dp/B003KBIEGS/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1512008177&sr=1-1-fkmr1&keywords=cyberpower+pdu+30a+20+outlets+240v


https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-16-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Desktop/dp/B01AX8XHRQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511358750&sr=8-3&keywords=16+port+switch


Still not sure about the power cord from the APW++ to the PDU C14-c13
APW++ if you cant read in the photo, sorry.



I will be running 3 s9's off each 240v cicuit

Buy the below. 1 Ethernet from modem to switch port 1. Use ports 3-16 (total 14 ports) to hook up your miners. Problem solved.
Edit: Just saw you said 8 more. Buy the below switch. Same setup
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-16-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Desktop/dp/B01AX8XHRQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511358750&sr=8-3&keywords=16+port+switch

First of all, thank you very much for the help. The TP-LINK is a TL-SF1005D, which is unmanaged, so you are correct, no IP. Not sure how I came up with the IP conflict earlier.

I've updated the future network diagram here (new equipment in orange): http://imgur.com/qoyRQi4

It looks like I will need:

(1) [UBIQUITI USG] (https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Security-Gateway-USG/dp/B00LV8YZLK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495983480&sr=8-1&keywords=Ubiquiti+USG)

(1) 16 PORT SWITCH

(1) [UPS] (https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BE550G/dp/B0019804U8/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1495985064&sr=1-4&keywords=apc+ups)

(3) UAP-AC-LITE

Questions:

• Is it worth spending the extra money for a ubiquiti switch vs netgear?
  
  
• Should I replace the 5 port TP-Link in the office to match the new 16 port switch?
  
  
• It looks like the UAP-AC-LITE has two ethernet connections. Is one in and one out to a hardwired device?
  
  
• Will the UAP-AC-LITE work like a wifi extener? No hard wired connection in, ethernet out to a device?
  
  Cost effective question:
  
  
• Would it be feasible to disable the 2.4 and 5.0 network on the existing E2500 router and install a UAP-AC-LITE for wifi?
  

I'm a fan of the netgear SOHO devices.

You can get a fanless unmanaged 16 port for $70.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AX8XHRQ

So there is not a simple end all be all solution this problem, unfortunately.

But a good place to start would be upgrading your 2 devices initially. I am assuming you have Cisco small business router and not 2 home routers.

The home routers looks something like this - https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1750-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B079JD7F7G/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=router&qid=1557460874&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

Cisco small business routers like this - https://www.amazon.com/Cisco-Systems-Gigabit-Router-RV325K9NA/dp/B00HODK3N0/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1WUJF97665J0D&keywords=cisco+small+business+router&qid=1557460910&s=gateway&sprefix=cisco+small%2Caps%2C166&sr=8-1

​

I would invest in something like the Cisco router I linked if you don't have it already. Fortunately, the Cisco router I linked is ready out of the box and can work on day 1. I would still confirm that with Cisco support as I only learned that from the Q and A page on Amazon. Having a router ready out of the box IS NOT THE NORM, and you generally need someone who knows how to configure them come in, usually a contractor of some sort. Alternatively, most home routers will support 255 devices, and that being said, and good Asus/Belkin/Netgear 150$ - 300$ router would likely be good enough for only 30 people.

Secondly - I don't know why you would need 2 routers. Routers enable a network to connect to the internet and to other networks. Having 2 seems unnecessary unless we are missing something. You can set up 1 router where your network meets the internet and have that second router be turned into a dedicated switch.

Cisco Switch (THIS IS NEEDS TO BE SET UP BY SOMEONE WHO KNOWS HOW TO MAINTAIN/CONFIGURE CISCO DEVICES) - https://www.amazon.com/Cisco-SLM2048T-NA-Mini-GBIC-Certified-Refurbished/dp/B07HFKMR2B/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=cisco+small+business+switch&qid=1557461367&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

Or - https://www.amazon.com/SYSTEMS-10-Port-Gigabit-Managed-SG35010K9NA/dp/B01HYA36SG/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=cisco+small+business+switch&qid=1557464529&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Unmanaged Switch (Commonly used at homes, Ready out of the box) - https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-16-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B01AX8XHRQ/ref=sxin_3_ac_d_pm?keywords=network+switch&pd_rd_i=B01AX8XHRQ&pd_rd_r=5575aed3-5184-474d-83c5-aca41f5c556a&pd_rd_w=K09zH&pd_rd_wg=uxzTY&pf_rd_p=5cc8abfe-8f78-4f34-b19f-d09d6ea0dca4&pf_rd_r=3F3DJSBGZNTDJQK0H8GG&qid=1557461743&s=gateway

*none of these switches will really impact performance, it's more along the lines of available ports and scalability.

From your second device (the switch), you should then be able to hardwire a few accesses points. The access points will broadcast the Wi-Fi signal covering generally about 1400 - 7000 FT depending on quality.

​

Cisco Access Point - https://www.amazon.com/SYSTEMS-802-11ac-Wireless-Access-WAP371AK9/dp/B00L0LIM62?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1

This AP claims that it is also plug and play. Again plug and play is great, but still, expect some troubleshooting if things don't work initially out of the box. It's always best to do research and consult a local IT person/department. Having a few of these AP's would provide some pretty solid Wi-Fi for the area as long as the ethernet cable is properly insulated and outside ethernet (CAT-6) cable is used where it needs to be used. Remember ethernet will have problems if it is exposed to the elements or if it exceeds 300 FT.

​

There is still so much more to consider and I'm really not that smart. Just your average IT guy trying to be helpful. Iv done this sort of things to an extent for a few years. Let me know if you have more questions.

Interesting. I wish there was a list of semi-managed switches, or that manufacturers would use that term in the product description.

So that unmanaged/semi-managed TP-Link would support static link aggregation, but none of these Netgear unmanaged switches supports any kind of link aggregation?: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-16-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B01AX8XHRQ/

That doesn't make it "impossible" it makes it easy.
Buy a couple of Netgear switches.

16-port
5-port
Done.

One thing to possibly consider is getting a wifi access-point and use that for the 4/5-port switch and extend the wifi to upstairs.

Price History

i have 500 mbs down and 50 up. This is the switch I have:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AX8XHRQ

So I've basically just kept this set-up because everything is telling me it is correct.

I have Modem -> OnHub -> Unmanaged Switch -> Puck (Wired).

I have good wifi signal in all parts of the house, but I'm still seeing occassional drops and needing to reconnect or reset the wifi. I do have 27 devices on the network, but I'm not sure if that makes a difference.

If you want to go new and can live with 4 out of 8 PoE ports and web interface/smart-switch stuff, the TP-Link TL-SG108PE is $90 new on Amazon.

(EDIT: Fixed the link to be the correct switch I was talking about.)

Honestly though, unless you actually need multiple PoE ports at the neighbor's house, an injector's going to be cheaper. The non-PoE version of the switch I linked above goes for $22, and I'm running a Cisco AIR-LAP1142N-A-K9 (with standalone IOS) on a cheap PoE adapter I found on eBay for $15. (Also TP-Link, but more a coincidence than anything.)

Any recommendations? Or are most of them comparable? I also need POE.

I'm looking at this one from TP-link: https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-8-Port-Gigabit-Switch-4-Port/dp/B01BW0AD1W/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=managed+switch&qid=1567888220&s=electronics&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sr=1-5

​

Or this one from netgear: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PS6Z162/?coliid=I3KKDZTPVG5DYS&colid=227QC6U4I3R6X&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

why would it slow down your network?

in the enterprise environment, the purpose of a separated network is security and usage of fiber/10gbe. by that, i mean say a nas is connected to compute servers via fiber, and the rest of the network uses 1gbe.

given you're not going to be 10GBe hardwar or 40Gbe fiber, plugging your NAS into your network through a router is never going to be faster than plugging your nas straight into your network. Each port on a switch can handle its own.

if you really want a dedicated route from your nas to your server, put an additional nic in each and run a 1ft patch cord directly between the two. or several, and bond them. no router, no switch, minimal crosstalk/interference, untouchable security.

if you're working with more than one nas, maybe look into a frontend like GusterFS. glusterfs mounts are like raid over the network, and you can do cool stuff like rebooting a nas during a file transfer, as well as getting more than 1GBps transfer.

OR, just get a single good switch that supports bonding, 9k frames, vlans. The TP-link smart 24 port switch is ~$125 and will do all the things.

edit: here is that switch

edit:you dont need vlan support to make separate networks. In the real world you do for security, butat home you can just use different subnets on the same switch

Exactly. Also, I just picked up one of these . OP can pick one up with more or less ports as needed.

Thanks for taking the time to explain this. It sounds spot-on!

i'm not certain about the xb1's but i used to play halo 2 at a store and we had probably 5 og xbox's on lan. they used an unmanaged switch like this. i'd guess that the same works for xb1. https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-5-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B07S98YLHM/ref=pd_sbs_147_t_0/130-3857015-5709528?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07S98YLHM&pd_rd_r=50aee12c-11ed-462e-9c0e-a4915da8ce70&pd_rd_w=jKlqD&pd_rd_wg=YYeRr&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=ZKSBSS49SGTWJCCKP481&psc=1&refRID=ZKSBSS49SGTWJCCKP481

For the masses, the Asus 10GE 8 Port Switch is a better price per port.

https://www.amazon.com/XG-U2008-Unmanaged-2-Port-8-Port-Gigabit/dp/B01LZMM7ZO/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1540557137&sr=8-7&keywords=asus+10g

I haven't tried it yet.

Edit: Totally wrong. This PoS only has 2 GE ports.

You couldn't be more wrong.
Anything that says FULL DUPLEX is capable of delivering speeds symmetrically for an unlimited amount of time. A full duplex gigabit switch will NEVER throttle and slow down anything. A gigabit switch without "full duplex" tag WILL occasionally cause slowing downs, POSSIBLY at least.

There is this great switch, TP-LINK SG1016, which is a full duplex gigabit switch, going on a deal on amazon now: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-16-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-TL-SG1016/dp/B002HAJQGA for $60.
Definitely worth $60 for a full duplex gig switch over some crap 5 port consumer grade shieeett

I am curious what replies you will get.

I, personally, do not like PoE injectors. I prefer PoE switches and am looking at https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-GS108PE-Gigabit-GS108PE-300NAS/dp/B00M1C03U2/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1481041712&sr=8-7&keywords=8+port+poe+switch as an option for my setup.

You're right. I've never actually used an adapter, as I've always just had PoE switches available. It's nice working for a company with good available resources and funding for dev/prod upgrades often. Makes more sense to put the injector on the switch side. Still, makes no sense to use them over a PoE switch, though.

Why are you assuming I'm using Ubiquiti throughout the whole network? I have an ER-X, that's my only Ubiquiti product at home. I see tons of people recommend other brands, for instance like a TP-Link AC1750 as a decent cheaper alternative to Ubiquiti APs. And look, it doesn't ship with a PoE adapter!! Dang! https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Supports-Technology-EAP245/dp/B01N0XZ1TU/ Only ~$80, instead of ~$130 for a UAP-AC-PRO (Which on Amazon it says it doesn't come with a PoE adapter either! https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-UAP-AC-PRO-Access-Included/dp/B079DSW6XX/ ). So here's an one adapter for $20 https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Injector-Adapter-compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I/ but wait, it can only push 15W! My Aruba APs can draw up to 25W. So less flexible, gotta get adapters for every AP, gotta power them near the switch, what a hassle.

It'd almost be awesome if there are affordable PoE switches available! Oh, look at this 8-port Gigabit PoE Managed switch for only ~$65! https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Lifetime-compliant-TL-SG108PE/dp/B01BW0AD1W/ whereas a Unifi Switch 8 PoE is ~$110 https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UniFi-Switch-60W-US-8-60W/dp/B01MU3WUX1/ Plus, you'll probably need the cloudkey if you're gonna use UAPs, so there's another $80. And might as well throw in a USG while you're at it for another $120, since OP needs a router anyways.

So, we could do your Ubiquiti stack:

• UAP-AC-PRO - $130
  
• PoE Injector - $20
  
• USG - $130
  
• Cloudkey - $80
  
• Still will likely need some switch, unless OP has one already. USG doesn't have enough ports. Could get a good ole' Netgear GS108 for $50, only $15 cheaper than the TP-Link PoE version above, which if you're paying $20 to get an injector (and more if you need multiple injectors) that doesn't make much sense does it?
  
  And we'd see that setting up your Ubiquiti network will cost somewhere around $400.
  
  If we do the other brands:
  
  
• TP-Link 1750 - $80
  
• TP-Link SG108PE - $65
  
• We can use an ER-X as our gateway since it's relatively cheap - $60
  
  Wow, look how much simpler that is! And it only cost around $205!
  
  So, remind me again in which section it's cheaper to use the PoE injectors? OP (likely) needs a switch anyways. PoE switch is $15 more expensive than non. But you're paying $20 for one injector anyways (PoE switch is like getting (Edit: 4, not 8) injectors for only $15). Did I miss anything here?

This one I bought recently is half the price and more ports.