Full list with links to everything shown here (and some stuff not shown). Please let me know if I've missed anything or if you have any questions.

PC Specs

Item | Make/model | Link | Price
-|-|-|-
Processor| Intel i7-8700k | Amazon | $355
Graphics Card| MSI GEFORCE GTX1080 TI GAMING X 11G| Amazon | $1,000
RAM | G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) 3200 MHZ | Amazon | $90
Motherboard | ASUS ROG Strix Z370-E Gaming | Amazon | $350
SSD | Samsung SSD 960 EVO 1TB NVMe | Amazon | $300
SSD | Samsung 850 EVO 500GB | Amazon | $130
SSD | Samsung 850 EVO 500GB | Amazon | $130
AIO | Corsair H110i V2 | Amazon | $120
Case | Lian Li PC 011 Dynamic | Amazon | $130
PSU | EVGA SuperNOVA 650 G2 | Amazon | $100
Fans | Corsair LL 120 | Amazon | $220
Drawers | Ikea Alex | Ikea | $90

The rest of the stuff

Item | Make/model | Link | Price
-|-|-|-
Desk | Jarvis Bamboo Standing Desk | Jarvis | $752
Chair | Herman Miller Embody | Amazon | $1,400
Monitor | ASUS PG279Q | Amazon | $610
Monitor | ASUS PG279Q | Amazon | $610
Desk Mat | Godspeed Reverse Panda | Novelkeys | $20
Mouse | Glorious Model O Matte White | Glorious | $50
Keyboard | Tofu65 w/ Gateron Browns | KBDFans | $200
Keycaps | MT3 Godspeed | Drop | $150
Dock | Caldigit TS3 | Amazon | $280
Speakers | Audioengine A2+ | Amazon | $300
Speaker Stands | Kanto S6W | Amazon | $60
Webcam | Logitech C922x | Amazon | $83
Monitor Arm | Jarvis Dual Monitor Arm in White | Jarvis | $160
Desk Backlight | Philips Hue Light Strip | Amazon | $90
Main Lights | Nanoleaf Light Panels | Nanoleaf | $550
Headphones | Hyperx Cloud Flight | Amazon | $135
VR | Oculus Quest | Amazon | $500
Headphones | Sony WH1000XM3 | Amazon | $275
Headphones | Master & Dynamic MH40 | Amazon | $250

Wallpaper Engine Link

\ price as configured

\ Some or all items not pictured here but are part of the setup

Why don't you get a 1440p display, cheaper sata ssd, cheaper cpu and mobo (ryzen 2, since you'd be playing on a higher res than 1080p ryzen 2 won't bottleneck and you won't need an aftermarket cooler) and you can step down to a 600/650w psu

you'll save: $176.88 on the cpu and cpu cooler (you'll also save some on the mobo). you'll save around $30 depending on the sata ssd you get (possibly more). save more than $30 and get this psu. So a total of around $295

you can get an Acer G247HYU for $230, you can find better deals on 1440p monitors tho

You'll get an overall better experience for slightly less money

Yep. Doesn't post checklist:

• Reset CMOS
  
• Unplug everything but CPU and Memory
  
• Remove Memory and use a known good stick in each slot one at a time
  
• Check Powersupply with either a tester or a known good supply
  
• Replace CPU
  
  Everything but replacing the CPU would take a few minutes at most. All the tools necessary can be taken with you to someones home in a small kit (tools to open case, tester, multiple dimm types).
  
  If you actually got all the way to replacing the CPU (assuming the computer didn't give you the beep code for bad memory), you would just inform the customer that it seems it's either a bad motherboard or bad CPU but that you would need to take it back to the shop for further diagnostics. If it's in your shop and not at home, this would be a really really quick 15 minute job.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139202&cm_re=550w-_-17-139-202-_-Product

$50 psu that is more than enough for this system

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813138372&cm_re=am3%2b-_-13-138-372-_-Product

$50 motherboard.

why you would pick such an expensive motherboard is beyond me when trying to do a comparison. motherboards offer almost NO performance improvements.

not to mention the cpu is more akin to amd's apu series, its an overclocked jaguar chip.

edit: https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0430-KR/dp/B00H33SDR4

here is one of the best budget power supplies that is HIGHLY rated for $32, 500w version for $38

Or don't and get a raspberry pi and put Kodi on it.

Here^1 is^2 everything^3 you^4 need to make a KodiPi with enough space to put a bunch of movies on (if you wish, otherise just get a smaller mSD). About the same price as a brand new roku, but you can do a lot more with it, and it's open source so you could do whatever you wanted with the device.

Same price on Amazon, w/ Prime shipping to save a few dollars. https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-220-G3-0750-X1/dp/B005BE058W Looks like a great deal. I paid more for the 650W version.

You need:

• A RaspberryPi - newer versions have a better CPU (but you can get a Zero for $5). If you want to play N64, go with a newer Raspberry Model B.
  
• A +5.1V micro USB power supply (for RetroPie, a 2.5A one works well)
  
• A USB Keyboard
  
• An HDMI cable
  
• A gaming controller of your choosing (USB cord if you can/otherwise bluetooth)
  
• An SD card - these can come pre-loaded if you shop around
  
  Optional:
  
  
• A nice case (according to OP's friend, Legos).
  
• SD Card Reader/Writer (if you didn't buy an SD card preloaded; some laptops have them)
  
• A bluetooth dongle (for PS3/PS4/XBox/XBoxOne/etc.)
  
• A wifi dongle (if you don't want a hard wired connection)
  
  Download RetroPie
  
  Follow video here:
  
  https://retropie.org.uk/documentation/installing-retropie/
  
  Might I add, you can setup SSH on the retropie, so you can connect to the machine and upload ROMs without having to use a USB keyboard. Google for old ROMs, I've used LoveROMs in the past.
  
  Total build time ~1-2 hours. Total cost $30 - $65.

You could use a tutorial here. It is a lot easier to do than it seems. I will tell you, you need a keyboard, Raspberry Pi 3, and an SD Card. Once you get that, here is where you can download it.. Then, just follow the instructions on Instructable. You really do not have to pay someone, it is a lot easier than it seems. If you want, you can even get a retro case (or normal one like I did) and get a retro controller. PM me if you need more help (I won't charge you if you need help, it is really easy)!

Edit: Ill do yo a bigger favor. Here are the things you will need

Raspberry Pi 3

Raspberry Pi 3 Charger Kit. A powerful phone charger or micro usb adapter should work, but someone can let me know if I am wrong.

SD Card Raspberry Pi 3

Keyboard, though, you probably have one of these at home

Retro Controller, not required, but recommended

You will need at least an 8 GB SD Card, but I recommend 32 GB

>Always spend at least 100$ on a good power supply.

The fuck is wrong with you. A decent $60 will do just fine for MOST builds you'll see here.

Just don't buy super cheap $30 trash or things suspiciously cheap.

http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Continuous-Warranty-120-G1-0650-XR/dp/B00K85X2AW/ref=sr_1_27?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1462332888&sr=1-27&keywords=power+supply

Would be more than enough with 10 year warranty UNDER $100

Don't always spend "at least $100"
You don't know wtf you're talking about.

How do you know a cheaper psu wouldn't have saved your PC from either? Legitimately how do you seem to know for sure?

Assuming you are talking about R-Pi, v3b.

All 32 bit and lower works flawlessly. This includes but is not limited to Genisis, GB, GBC, GBA, NES, SNES, PSX.

N64 is the most commonly discussed as it has a large library of great games that are also often 4x multiplayer. Most games work very well (e.g. Mario Kart), while some do not (in particular 007 Goldeneye).

Hardware:

• Raspberry Pi 3 - $36
  
• Samsung EVO 32GB Class 10 Micro SDHC - $11
  
• CanaKit 5V 2.5A Raspberry Pi 3 Power Supply - $10
  
• Addicore Raspberry Pi Heatsink Set - $5
  
• AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable - 3 Feet - $5
  
• Official Raspberry Pi 3 Case - $8
  
  
  Total cost so far, $75. You can get a less expensive case that also comes with the heat sinks bringing your cost down to ~$65.
  
  Cheap right? Well, the one thing that is going to cost you the most in any of these builds is the controllers.
  
  I like:
  
  
• 8BITDO NES30 Pro Wireless Bluetooth Controller - $49 (x4).
  
  When I first bought them, they were $36 each, and I love them. They work really well via the Pi's built in Bluetooth.
  
  Another great option that works really well are the XBOX-360 controllers. Wired ones run you $27 each brand new, and wireless are $34/each, plus one adapter for the set.
  
  
  In other words, four good controllers are going to run you $100-$200. Which is the bulk of most builds. In a childs-only build, I am considering either wired XBOX-360 controllers because of their awesome cord break-away feature, or going even less expensive with the $12 SNES clones, though that eliminates the ability to play N64 and PSX.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DZ6R9GE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501960395&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=evga+power+supply+500w&dpPl=1&dpID=4158jP7Q8kL&ref=plSrch

Assuming it was off when it got wet, it may be ok if you let it dry out completely. Of course modern power supplies are not really off, unless they are unplugged. Even then there is a small amount of current being supplied to the real time clock via the coin cell battery on the motherboard.

If it does not start up when dry it is possible it is just the power supply that is dead / blown fuse. The motherboard and cards / drives may still be fine.

The fuse in the power supply is not considered user serviceable so don't open it. If it is dead just toss it. They make ATX power supply testers and you can find them for cheap on Amazon.

-- EDIT --
Here is a power supply tester

I only have a EVGA 500w 80+ certified PSU. That is too weak for the Fury, right? I can sell this PSU to my business (I need to build a new computer for it anyway) and use that money toward a better PSU if I wanted but what would be a good (and relatively) cheap PSU to run the fury. I prefer Newegg or Amazon Prime.

EDIT: Fuck it, I pulled the trigger. Was sitting on the money to buy XFX/Nitro+ 480 but I've been rocking this 6950 for too long and I'm tired of waiting at this point. This seems like a killer deal for $275 and free shipping (I used the Paypal promo). Here's to new GPUs!

I really like the EVGA G3 series, very solid PSU with excellent reviews. And no rebates! Instant. The included cables are decent, mostly sleeved. And the 750w includes a 10 year warranty. And no tax for most states.

If you prefer Amazon, they have same price, click here.

JonnyGuru review

PcPer review

I'm not even close to 'expert status' on PC building but I've been reading about PSUs the past few days looking for a good deal on a new unit for my new build I'm piecing together and I noticed a disturbing trend in reviews on all the G model EVGA PSUs in recent months, and it makes me wonder if somethings going on with their most recent production batches. Here are the direct links to this line for both Newegg and Amazon, go and look at the 1-star reviews for yourselves and notice how the vast majority are all from the last 6 months to 1 year talking about complete failures of the PSU, with some people's builds being damaged.

On Newegg.

On Amazon.

Cpu is good.

Cpu cooler: https://www.alternate.co.uk/Cryorig/H7/html/product/1174912
That one will have better cooling at the same price.

Motherboard: You should get a Z170 board so you can overclock. If you don't want to overclock, then don't get the 6600k and a custom cooler, and instead get the 6500, and use the stock cooler on that.

Storage: perfectly fine

Video Card: As others have said, replace it will the RX 480.

PSU: Swapped it out for a slightly better psu,
https://www.amazon.co.uk/EVGA-100-B1-0500-KR-Bronze-Power-Supply/dp/B00DZ6R9GE/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1465052059&sr=1-2&keywords=evga%5D+500

If you can afford it, go for this psu

https://www.amazon.co.uk/EVGA-SuperNova-Fully-Modular-Supply/dp/B0141B21JG/ref=sr_1_4?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1465052095&sr=1-4&keywords=evga+b2

Sorry in advance if this is a bit of a spammy post, it's been growing in each topic I put it in as I assemble more and more info for people.

I've posted about this in a couple different threads so I'll just copypasta some of it here.
The cost for my setup, not including the drives (of which I had quite a few laying around from other builds) and an unRAID Pro License, was about $800 all together.

It can do pretty much everything you've asked except maybe Live TV PVR, but that's only because of a limitation in the Plex unRAID Docker itself. So if you plan on running Plex in the Docker that's gonna be the case no matter what you end up running it on hardware wise.

I have about 40 friends around the globe who regularly access my server and the only real bottleneck I've encountered is my upload speed when too many streams are pushing out at once.

__

You can make a good unRAID rig for FAR cheaper if you simply use older server components, for example:

SuperMicro X8DT3-LN4F Motherboard ($89.99)

2x Intel Xeon X5650 LGA1366 CPU's ($43.48 each)

EVGA SuperNOVA 650 Watt 80 Plus Gold Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99)

Some DDR3 ECC Server RAM, Usually pretty cheap ($24.00)

Then you just need any EATX capatible case, any two LGA1366 coolers, and any drives you want. All together your probably looking at no more than $600-700 for a system that will likely preform the same if not better than the setup you posted but will have 12-Cores (24 Hyper-threaded) @ 2.66Ghz


I should point out that I ALREADY have this style of setup working with unRAID, so this is not theory but a proven concept. I found as many of the original sources that I used as I could, but I made this a while ago so not all were current. Either way tho, the price for doing this kind of setup only tends to go DOWN over time, so it will only get easier to put together. Heck I've seen some sales of the X8DT3-LN4F Motherboard that come with RAM & CPU's already, so you might be able to pick up a complete setup for about the same cost as getting it piece by piece.

__

The only thing I would really add to the above is that the SAS module on the above motherboard actually has issues with operating Drives larger than 2TB, so If you want to add more than the 6 SATA 3TB+ drives that the Mobo nativly supports, your gonna need a PCIe SATA expansion card, such as This One that I ended up using.

I also have had some boot issues with the SAS function enabled in general, so if you do end up going with the above board I would just leave it disabled.

Also I would highly recommend watching most of Space Invader One's unRAID tutorial videos. Especially the ones about Docker CPU pinning and optimization plugins.

__

On my current setup I am running:

Dockers --
Plex, PlexPy (Plex Statistics and Notifications, I'm using it to run a Discord Bot that announces when new things are added on the server to friends), Omni (Plex Request System), Radarr, Sonarr, Jackett (Lets Radarr & Sonarr search private & public torrent trackers automatically), Deluge (Bittorrent Client), OpenVPN (For secure remote access over VPN) & Krusader (File Manager, Booted on Demand)

VMs --
Windows 8.1 VM (As a VNC GUI remote interface and to run ExtractNow to automatically deal with rared or zipped media torrents) & Windows 10 VM (Passing through a GTX970 and being used as a Steam In-Home streaming Client. Hooked directly up to a 4K TV so I can stream games from my main High End Gaming Rig to my TV. Booted on Demand)

Plugins --
A Bunch from the Community Applications Suite (Auto Turbo Write Mode, Auto Update Applications, Backup/Restore Appdata, Cleanup Appdata, Config Editor), Several Dynamix Plugins (Cache Directories, File Integrity, SSD TRIM, System Information, System Statistics), Fix Common Problems, Nerd Tools, Tips and Tweaks, Unassigned Devices, unBALANCE, User Scripts

Drives --
Nine 3TB HDDs (1 For Parity & 8 For Storage), One 120GB SSD (Cache)

__

Looks like you can get a refurbished X8DT3-F for about $120. The only real difference between the X8DT3-F and X8DT3-LN4F is if they have 2 or 4 Gigabit Ethernet Ports.

I actually have all 4 of mine connected to a high speed switch then into my router as a load balanced bond (effectively getting 4xGigabit speeds, at least within my LAN, which IS useful when streaming 4K games from my gaming PC to the server's client VM) but for most setups both boards are effectively equivalent.

It's the official raspi screen, 7" with about a 1" border and is essentially plug n' play into the raspi. I also found this random bamboo case for the screen which I like a lot. I also need a slightly more powerful power supply for the raspi and screen together.

No wonder your PSU blew, it has very low amps on 12V rails, and it isn't even 80 Plus in efficiency.

Cheap PSU is to blame here, not the GPU.

Should have a minimum of 80 Plus bronze certified PSU for such a graphics card as RX 480, and minimum of 550-600W.

Cheap PSU's, no matter how many Watts they are labelled for are horrible, have terrible fuses, it may very well have destroyed your system (Hopefully not).

If you can, buy another PSU to make sure it's okay.

I would recommend THIS PSU

PC Setup (Generated from my old spreadsheet)

• XFX Radeon RX 580 GTS Black Edition 1425MHz OC+, 8GB GDDR5 ($219) https://www.amazon.com/XFX-Radeon-1425MHz-Graphics-RX-580P8DBD6/dp/B071CD6K6Z
  
• ASUS ROG Maximus X Hero (Wi-Fi AC) LGA1151 DDR4 DP HDMI M.2 Z370 ($259) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075RJ944T/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Samsung 970 EVO 1TB - NVMe PCIe M.2 2280 SSD ($169) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BN4NJ2J/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Samsung 970 EVO 1TB - NVMe PCIe M.2 2280 SSD ($169) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BN4NJ2J/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• CORSAIR Hydro Series H110i AIO Liquid CPU Cooler ($115) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019955W7C/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Intel Core i7-8086K Desktop Processor 6 Cores up to 5.0 GHz unlocked LGA 1151 300 Series 95W ($379.99) https://www.amazon.com/Intel-i7-8086K-Desktop-Processor-unlocked/dp/B07DGDWJ3P/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Intel%2BCore%2Bi7-8086K&qid=1553548453&s=electronics&sr=1-3-catcorr&th=1
  
• G.SKILL TridentZ RGB Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3200 (PC4 25600) ($344) https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820232560&Description=F4-3200C14D-32GTZ&cm_re=F4-3200C14D-32GTZ--20-232-560--Product
  
• Phanteks Evolv X PH-ES518XTG_DAG01 Anthracite Gray Aluminum ATX Mid Tower Computer Case ($199) https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854077
  
• EVGA Supernova 750 G3, 80 Plus Gold 750W, Fully Modular, Eco Mode with New HDB Fan ($109) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005BE058W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  Comes to roughly $1,963 for the tower itself which is pretty cheap all things considering
  
  ​
  
  If you are interested in my monitors at all, I'm using the following
  
  
• [Main Monitor] Alienware 1900R 34.1", Curved Gaming Monitor LED-Lit, WQHD 3440 x 1440p Resolution, 4ms 120Hz Overclocked Refresh Rate, NVIDIA G-Sync, 21:9 Aspect Ratio, HDMI, Display Port, 4x USB 3.0, AW3418DW ($799 on sale BF) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0777RY75V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Other 2 are LG's I've purchased a year apart several years ago (3-5), I can't even find the links to them anymore. Got them both when WQHD just started becoming a thing
  
• LG Electronics UM95 34UM95-P 34-Inch Screen LED-Lit Monitor ($599)
  
  ​
  
  Other
  
  
• Jarvis Desk Base ($450) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N023V8B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Blue Yeti Microphone ($115) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N1YPXW2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• InnoGear Microphone Suspension Mic Clip ($13) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L3LL95O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Dragonpad Pop Filter ($13) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008AOH1O6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  ​
  
  This would have been a perfect opportunity to generate affiliate links, but I don't care. Hopefully that helps!

This is how it breaks down from parts from ebay. Includes shipping. I'll even include links

Base Desktop - $50

Intel Core 2 Quad Q9550 -$30

EVGA 600W 80+ Bronze PSU -$50

16GB DDR2 - $20

WD Blue 1TB - $45

Sandisk 240GB SSD - $40

MSI Twin Froze GTX 770 - $83

Windows 10 Pro License -$7.50 since its so valuable to you. Also its 2018, be real. No one buys full keys or they buy them off eBay. Yes I know they are not legit but once again 2018 no one cares.

Total: $325.50

Even comes with a spare CPU, drive, and 8GB DDR2. Also, you could probably buy most of these parts for less. These were pulled from quick ebay searches. For example, the PSU could be closer to $20 in reality, the card would be closer to $70 and the drive would be around $25 for the HDD and $35 for ssd. That would be $257.50. Still could probably get lower than that. Get real with your prices.

Hey p_orsk,

So glad to hear that we have another HomeLabber in our midst. I just thought I would take a minute and share with you my current build that has suited me very well. It is completely silent and power efficient, while still powerful enough to do what you want plus more. My build was also built to be small profile so this build is built around a Micro-ITX case. This build cost me $500 in the US in 2017, don't quite know what the price would be now.

• CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 1600 Processor with Wraith Spire Cooler
  
• Motherboard: ASUS PRIME A320M-K AMD Ryzen AM4 DDR4 HDMI VGA M.2 USB 3.1 Micro-ATX Motherboard
  
• PSU: EVGA 430 W1, 80+ WHITE 430W
  
• RAM: HyperX FURY Black 16GB Kit (2x8GB) 2133MHz DDR4
  
  As I said, this build should be completely silent. I went into the BIOS settings and turned it on Power-Saver mode for good measure, which makes things run a bit warmer, but keeps fan speeds down.
  
  I didn't list storage here, as it sounds like you got that covered. This motherboard also supports M.2 if you want to add that later.
  
  If I can make one suggestion, I would highly recommend getting into Virtualization. My poison of choice is Proxmox. I could really get into this, but it really helps when you are trying to expand.
  
  If you have any other questions, feel free to comment on this post, or shoot me a DM. I would be happy to help!
  
  [EDIT] This is just my experience. You will get 110 different answers from 100 different people in this world. You kinda just have to tinker to get what works for you.

This deal is still going. An EVGA 450bt for 22 with no MIR. This is a better deal imo.
450bt for $22 on amazon

For the price i'd suggest the EVGA 450W BT instead

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Bronze-Warranty-Supply-100-BT-0450-K1/dp/B01N9X3F8F

https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-220-G3-0750-X1/dp/B005BE058W

Probably a better option. Decent price @ 124.99 from amazon.

If you need a bit more power then the 750W version is on sale for an extra $30 ($125)

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B005BE058W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Md9VAb9HWP8GH?th=1

Shitty image.

Just finished building the $350 24-thread powerhouse, with a few minor adjustments. I picked up the Thermaltake F31 instead, as I really wanted a non-LED case, and this one has sound-dampening material which cuts down on the dual CPU fan noise.

I also had to pick up an EPS splitter since the 650 only has one. Would have been better to go with the EVGA 750 for power instead, as that has everything this motherboard needs.

Had 24GB of RAM from an old desktop build, so I didn't need to buy that. HDD is a 256GB Crucial M100, and have 10TB of spinning rust for larger amounts of data storage.

Media is stored on a DroboFS w/ 5 x 4TB WD Reds.

If I were doing it all over again, I'd also replace the CPU fans with Cooler Master 212s, as the Intel ones are so large (and square), that they overlap with one another and I needed to remove the fan shield in order to get them to fit.

Currently running Plex, SteamCache, DNS, and a few other things, all running via Docker and provisioned via Ansible.

What you'll need:

• $40 Raspberry Pi 3
  
• $20 MicroSDXC Card - any size. 64GB for $23 seems to be a solid deal. - If you want to install large game libraries with video previews, look into a 128GB. They're not more expensive and you have way more room to play with. $40 - 128GB
  
  
• $16 Case - it can be as low as $5. I choose this one because it's simple and highly functional.
  
  
• $10 Power Supply - Don't mess around. Get one that will provide the proper voltage.
  
  
• $13 Mini Keyboard - I use mine all the time. Others use basic USB keyboards from Goodwill. Others SSH into the console. This is optional.
  
  Again, there are some very optional parts above. It can be as cheap or expensive as you want. Also, I'm not getting into controllers. Those will throw the budget in every direction possible.
  
  
• Cheap: Pi3 w. $5 case and have everything else (keyboard, memory card, power supply, controller) at home, you're at $45.
  
• Not cheap: Pi3 w. $20 case, $45 128GB MicroSDXC, $20 back-lit keyboard, $10 power supply, $50 Wii U Pro bluetooth controller = $145

I wouldn't doubt it as the CX PSUs are pretty horrible.

What light exactly are you referring to though? The power button light on the case? No other lights come on on the motherboard or anything? No fans turn on (literally none of them?)? If the PSU was completely dead you'd likely see no lights at all, but that doesn't mean the PSU isn't the problem.

You can test the PSU with paperclip method to confirm if it's indeed the problem or if you want to fork up a few dollars you can buy a PSU tester. Something like THIS would work.

• motherboard tester
  
  
• Power Supply tester
  
  
• Ultimate Boot CD
  
  
• Dr. Web Live CD
  
  
• electric screwdriver
  
  
• package opener
  
  it's hardly relevant, but that last one is there because those plastic packages are annoying and sometimes the thing inside those clamshell packages are used for PC repair, such as a flash drive. it also has a box cutter, a little screwdriver you can use as a backup, and the clippers work really well on zip ties, which can sometimes be useful with PC parts, as wires are sometimes zip tied together.
  
  everything else is basically all you'll need to diagnose and fix any problems you may have with a PC. as long as the PSU connectors and motherboard are working, you can figure out any other hardware failure. Dr. Web will cure almost any viruses you can't kill in safe mode with Malwarebytes, and Ultimate Boot CD has many diagnostic tools that from my experience, can help pinpoint nearly any other issue.
  
  I feel like I've forgotten one of my other diagnostic tools. I might be thinking of my PC Login Now disc and my XP Black CD. but I can't legitimately link you to those. most subreddits frown upon linking to anything even remotely related to piracy. I think I covered everything else.
  
  and depending on how advanced with repair you plan to go, you might want a soldering kit as well, but I doubt you'll do anything on that level. I don't even solder anything, and I plan on doing computer repair for a living.

Following is my configuration built 2 years back.

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor

Motherboard: Asus Z97-PRO ATX LGA1150 Motherboard

Memory: Kingston HyperX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory

Storage: Sandisk Ultra Plus 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive

Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive

Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 760 2GB DirectCU II Video Card

CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler

Power Supply: Cooler Master VSM 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply

Case: Cooler Master Storm Enforcer SGC-1000-KWN1

Dell S2240L 21.5 inch LED Backlit LCD Monitor x 2(Got these two for a steal at the Flipkart Big Billion Day Sale)

Cooler Master Keybord & Mouse Devastator Combo SGB-3010-KKMF1-US

Right now playing SOMA.

Been building my own rigs since I was 11. First one was a 386, and man, was it badass. I'll tell you, nothing quite like graduating from a Commodore 64 and Sega Genesis to a PC game.

Just built a new rig earlier this year. Can't recall the specs, I'll add them later, but here it is: http://www.imgur.com/uweUI7E.jpeg

EDIT: Whoops! Almost forgot to post specs.

Case

PSU

Top Case Fan

Processor

RAM

Motherboard

Gaming SSD

GPU

My OS is on an older SSD from an older build, but it's still fine. I also have a Seagate 1 TB and a Western Digital Black 1 TB for secondary storage. Most of that is my Steam library.

The power supply seems slightly excessive price wise. You could save a little or just get a better one. I have below two cheaper options that should be fine.

http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-BRONZE-Continuous-Warranty-100-B1-0600-KR/dp/B00EON40CS/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1453221894&sr=1-5&keywords=power+supply

http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-110-B1-0750-VR/dp/B00K85X23O/ref=sr_1_11?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1453221894&sr=1-11&keywords=power+supply

You really need a better power supply. Drop the Hyper 212 EVO and get this PSU instead. Most budget builds stick with the stock heatsink anyway. I would not put a $10 PSU in anything, you risk frying every component of the build.

The OEM for this unit is Delta Electronics. The following are reviews of the 850W version of this PSU, since I can't find any for the 750W one:

JonnyGuru
TechPowerUp
TweakTown

I posted a comment comparing this to other viable options in another thread I just posted about the semi-modular HCG-850M.

At this price it competes with the EVGA 750G2, which is on Amazon right now for $90 without mail-in rebate. Since these are both top-tier, fully modular units, the decision between the two comes down to whether you're willing to pay an extra $10 to avoid a $20 rebate.

Raspberry Pi 2: $35

SNES controller adapter: $11

32 GB MicroSD card: $10

Power Supply: $10

Case: $7

RetroPie: $0

The ability to play your favorite games forever: Priceless

Also 17.99 on amazon

What's the difference between the 450BV and the 450BT?

• Ryzen 5 1600 + Gigabyte B450-DS3H $120 at Microcenter
  
• 32GB (2x16GB) RAM ~$130
  
• Cache: 256GB NVMe drive ~$45
  
• Capacity: 1TB SSD w/DRAM ~$110
  
• used Broadcom 57810 10gb NIC ~$25
  
• USB stick for ESXi ~$8
  
• PCIe x1 video card ~$40 (you only need 1 for initial config because that mobo will boot ESXi headless)
  
• 80+ Bronze PSU ~$45
  
• optional dirt cheap case ~$20
  
• 10gb DAC cable ~$15
  
• 4 port 10gb switch ~$145
  
  Estimated Total $1736 +tax and shipping
  
  There're a few areas you could scrimp to get to $1500. This is basically my build, but I went with 4 nodes, a bigger switch, and a cheap 4 pack of longer cables (10gtek's 4 packs have a decent discount). If the price of the Intel 660p has your attention for multiple capacity drives, I suggest an x470 or x570 mobo that can do x4x4x4x4 bifurcation on the x16 slot and then use a quad m.2 board without a PCIe switch for them (ones from ASUS and ASrock are ~$100 which can negate any cost savings). There are boards with a PCIe switch that will work with the above board, but they're very expensive.
  
  If you get a MikroTik switch, use RouterOS because SwOS apparently has bugs beyond what I experienced. If you get one of their PoE switches, be careful with non-PoE devices. Mine was working fine, but I triggered a bug in SwOS and it toasted some gear; I need to have a conversation with MikroTik and the seller to see what can be done about what got toasted.

Amazon price matched that Walmart deal so if anyone missed it, check it out! Also it's available on primenow meaning you can get it tomorrow! https://primenow.amazon.com/dp/B00EON40CS?qid=1494323845&m=AQCUSYIS91P2B&sr=1-0

edit: Amazon and Walmart are huge and it's good seeing walmart fight Amazon. In the end we all win.

Here is a list of things that people will always need, I understand you can't stock everything as overhead is an issue with retail, and storage as well, but most of these are small enough that they can occupy the shelf space you currently have. As for the larger things, like the 2020 extrusions, you could sell them in common lengths of 500mm and 1000mm and let the customer cut them down to the size they need, or just don't carry these at all. It's not a niche item, but for a retail store like you it would be hard to store and maintain, but man, would it be nice to be able to get those locally if i needed a piece for a project instead of having to wait on mail order.

• PSU 12v/24v
  
• Fans 30mm/40mm in 12v/24v
  
• PEI 200mm, 250mm, 300mm for Deltas and 300x300 for Cartesian, CoreXY.
  
• E3D Hotends
  
  • v6
    
  • Volcano
    
  • Titan Aero
    
  • Nozzle Variety Pack
    
  • Thermistors
    
  • Pro Socks
    
  • Heater Cartridges
    
  • Volcano Nozzles
    
  • Heat Breaks
    
• Boro Glass
  
• Spatulas similar to this style
  
• Plastic Razor Blades
  
• Capricorn PTFE Tubing 1.75/3mm variants
  
• Screws, Cap head, M3, M4, M5 etc.
  
• 2020 Extrusion, 2040 Extrusion etc
  
  this is just a basic list, others have listed other things as well, Steppers, Belts, Pulleys, Bearings etc. If you want 3d printing as a reason for other people to go to your store, these items will satisfy the need. Just keep prices fair, I have no issue paying a bit more compared to amazon to get it today.
  

So, presumably, you're going to want different sections to have lights which operate independently from each other. Lights in this "room" lights in another "room" lights somewhere else yet. And also, presumably, you don't want it to be "all on" or "all off," but different sections that turn on when players are there, leaving the other sections off.

All sections will require power in order to operate, but it won't be necessary to run power cables willy nilly all over the board for this. Instead, you can run two lines - one positive, and one negative - back to your power source. It's similar to a breadboard in that you have power lines running the full length so you can tap power wherever you need it. I personally would run something like 14AWG wire to a series of screw down terminals, which will be where you connect any "room" circuits up.

I personally would change your design to use LEDs instead of incandescent bulbs. The incandescent bulbs will require a much higher voltage, which will require more expensive reed switches, and will also pose more hazard to work with and for the players. It definitely can be done safely at 120V, but it will be less work for better results (that will also last longer) if you switch. Using say, 12V DC for power, you can leave your power rails exposed if you want and it won't be a risk even if someone is touching them.

Here is a hastily drawn wiring schematic for you, which shows one light that would be activated by standing upon 6 different tiles. The black and red lines up top are your power rails. On one end, each of those is connected to a + (red) and - (black) on a power source. I would recommend something like this or even like this depending upon what your actual power requirements end up being. My overwhelming suspicion is your entire board, even if every fixture was lighted, would still be consuming less than 24W (if you go LED!). The cluster of 6 of the same item to the left are a bank of switches. Power is drawn off the + rail, and if any one switch is closed, power will continue to flow to the LED (purple), which is attached to the - rail to close the circuit. This can be scaled up or down almost infinitely - more LEDs on from one switch or switch bank - no problem - more or less switches - no problem. You can make as many of these set ups as you want, and attach them to the same rails - no problem!

To be honest, reading your post it sounds like still have some work to go to reach even a fundamental understanding of electrical circuitry. That's of course ok and not intended as a diss. This is partially why I recommend switching to a lower voltage of DC power (although it is what I would do personally as well), but also I would recommend you continue working on the fundamentals - it will make designing your project a lot easier. Here's a kinda whack video for kids but it's the most digestible one I was able to find in quickly searching. I also found this really cool lab software which will allow you to create simulations of the concepts you've learned about. If you need help or have specific questions, feel free to ask. Also, if you've got a design of your board laid out in a grid and you know where you want lights, switches, etc, I can help you turn that into a wiring diagram.

CPU

Mother Board

GPU

8GB of RAM

1TB HDD for way more storage space then a console. You could drop the storage space to match a console and save a bit of money, but we won't do that.

PSU Cheaper/lower wattage for this build is possible, but it's better not to skimp

Disk drives are dying out and everything is going digital. Even consoles are showing massive growth in direct game purchases and downloads from PSN/XBL. But here it is if you want one.

Here's a few cases 1 2 3 4. Pick your case based on style, USB ports, whatever. All of those are 30 dollars or less and are mATX, meaning smaller form factor.

So now peripherals. Need a monitor? No you don't, plug it in to your TV. HDMI just like a console and consoles don't come with displays. You might have a monitor already.
Controller/input devices? PCs can use the old controllers you have laying around. Here's a keyboard and mouse recommendation anyway if you want one or don't already own them since most people own a computer for stuff outside gaming. That costs around half the price of an OEM console controller and KB+M is a more accurate input method. Controllers are a comfort thing and are best suited for driving games, but point and click with a high DPI sensor is much more intuitive and accurate than a controller with bad input filtering and clunky auto aim. Microsoft tried cross platform and keyboard and mouse destroyed gamepad/controller players. The only real cross platform right now is Rocket League because controllers are the better input method for driving so it's equal footing. But if you're playing Rocket League on PC, you load in faster. You'll be sitting on an empty field while you wait for other players to connect before the countdown and stuff starts, kinda neat. Also, that one I recommended has a button to change DPI/sensitivity on the fly, no need to bother with settings menus. Seamlessly go from sniping to roaming to driving. The keyboard is back lit and has a few color options.

Operating system? GNU/Linux is free and is getting more and more gaming support every day. It's not as hard as people make it out to be. Get a basic/user friendly distro like Ubuntu and all you really have to do is install. If you're a masochist, a developer, or a masochistic developer get a tougher distro like Gentoo. Funny thing as well, games with Linux support run better on Linux since it's such a great operating system on the software level. SteamOS is also free. Want Windows? Download the OS and put it on a disk or flash drive, install it on the new computer and enter the product key. Where do you get a product key? Don't buy it from a big box retail store for 100 bucks or likely more, you're getting gypped. You can buy 100% legit product keys online. r/microsoftsoftwareswap sells them for 20-25$ and the keys are straight from Microsoft

Also, all of those listings are from Amazon and are Amazon Prime eligible (for the other guy that replied to you that wants to complain about rebates/shipping/living next to a MicroCenter). You can find a lot of those parts cheaper and/or with free shipping. I recommend NewEgg. So you can do even better than the price I'm about to give you (which also means you can get better hardware for better performance):

Here's the itemized list with the prices: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/QBVRNG

$448.51 total for a PC that is massively better than current gen consoles. Drop the unnecessary DVD drive and the keyboard+mouse combo and the PC itself comes in at $402.93.

So... brand new parts from a large online retailer with a great support system. You can get even better deals on the parts if you checked other great online retailers like NewEgg. Ten years ago consoles absolutely made sense, but now leaps in hardware design have made better hardware cheaper and the tables have turned.

Does that "come close without cheating"?

Here's a few more kickers now that we have the hard price set:

AMD and Nvidia are about to launch a new line of GPUs, meaning current prices will drop (better performance at lower cost on that build I just gave you) and AMD is specifically focusing on lower/mid range market with higher performance and efficiency. It's going to be great for mainstream gaming rigs.

PC gaming is usually cheaper over time because Intel/Nvida/AMD don't charge development fees (they can't), neither can EVGA/ASUS or whoever makes the parts, neither can Microsoft. Steam takes a cut, but so do stores like GameStop. Stuff like that is why Steam can have massive sales consoles can only dream of and the developers can still profit from a sale. The only reason PC games are 60 dollars like their console equivalents is because it's the standard and they can "get away with it" (especially if you're Microsoft trying to expand Windows 10 and not alienate XBox), but they can make the same or more per sale at a lower cost.

PCs also have the largest game library of any platform and the massive free to play library that comes with it as well. And it's really free, not 'pay 50 a year for a subscription and get to play a game for a month' free

PC is, in theory, forever backwards compatible. Want to play CoD4? Don't shell out the money for Infinite Warfare, just install CoD4 and play on the servers PC still hosts. Games that came out upwards of 10 years ago can still be installed and run with no issue.

You don't have to double spend. No buying a console and a computer for work/school. Put your 300 dollar home computer and 400 dollar console prices together and you made a huge leap in budget to built a killer PC. You also get a much more versatile platform capable of running much more stuff and you get so much more control over your experience.

Then you are running a huge fire hazard. Here is link to the psu im using: https://www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG
Mosfets can be found on amazon/ebay aswell. Marlin is free software and soldering just need a soldering iron and your skills. I would not recommend you to use it before you do these upgrades.

When you have done these upgrades, then you can start to troubleshoot the other problems. I am sorry, but I do not know what's causing the sounds.

2nd picture, rectangular chip, 4th silver connector on right side down, burnt connection and chip

You should check with the seller for a replacement power supply first, otherwise

https://tiny-machines-3d.myshopify.com/products/highest-quality-replacement-power-supply-for-creality-cr-series-machines

or this should work from amazon but it won't fit in the box according to the reviewer, still 18.99

https://www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

My choice

Well the other day Rasberry Pi 3 Model B was $28 w/ free Shipping so:

Raspberry Pi- $28

32GB SD card- $13

2.5A Power Supply- $10

Heatsinks- $5

Case- $8

HDMI Cable- $7

_____

Total- $ 71

I'd say it's an okay deal. I'd rather buy it bundled anyway, just so it all arrives at once.

PSU is an easy choice for your build, go with an EVGA 500 Watt PSU. It's not overpriced and has more than enough power for you system

PSU here.

GL, and happy gaming!

PS: obligatory " should've gotten an r9 390 "

Here's a cheap 500W Tier 3 power supply.

Yes. A better power supply.

S12II

I know it costs more. It's worth it.

This PSU is NOT MODULAR.

You can get it down to $25 if you haven't bought from them yet with the Save15Now Code, otherwise it is still a great deal on a decent 600W Bronze PSU.
___
edit : Also available from Amazon for the same price if you can't use the code and want a different retailer.

http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-BRONZE-Continuous-Warranty-100-B1-0600-KR/dp/B00EON40CS

It seems like you're on a pretty tight budget from the comments. This is what I would do.

Used ebay optiplex ($120) - This isn't new tech by any means, but for $120 you're getting a quad core sandy bridge cpu, 8 gb of ram, a 500gb HDD and a Windows license. You can't beat that value.

PSU ($40) - EVGA 500w - Cheap, stable, reliable.

GPU ($105) - XFX RX 460, suitable for most newer games at medium settings at 1080p. If you can spend a little over $300 for your build I'd highly suggest upgrading this to an rx 470.

Overall this system will do what you want for under $300.

I completely forgot you mentioned the store credit... Go for it! But, Try to get a beefier PSU. Anything around 500-600 watts is decent. You're going to want a certified power supply like this! Most GPU's will labeled their recommended amount of watts to drive the GPU.

Might as well get the PSU new for the same price.

https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Tester-220-G2-0550-Y1/dp/B0106RDI3W/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1536714284&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=550+G2&dpPl=1&dpID=51ut60j6CcL&ref=plSrch

You can probably still manage with the old PSU, but upgrading would definitely serve you well. My suggestion would be the [EVGA 650 GQ] (https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Modular-Crossfire-Warranty-210-GQ-0650-V1/dp/B017HA3SQ8/), good efficiency and around $75

Substitute this PSU and I think it's a great build.

Specs:

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $204.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | ASRock H110M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard | $67.99 @ Amazon
Memory | Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory | $68.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Hitachi Ultrastar A7K3000 2TB 64MB Cache 7200RPM SATA III (6.0Gb/s) | $53.88 @ Amazon
Storage | KingDian 120GB With 128M Cache Internal Solid State Drive|$36.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | PNY GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB Video Card | $249.99 @ Amazon
Case | Cooler Master Elite 130 Mini ITX Tower Case | $42.00 @ Amazon
Power Supply | EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $37.48 @ Amazon
Monitor | LG 25UM58-P 25.0" 75Hz Monitor | $181.81 @ Amazon
Keyboard & Mouse | IXCC-LED Illuminated Water-Resistant Gaming Keyboard | $22.99 @ Amazon
Mouse pad | Spigen Gaming Mouse Pad | $7.99 @ Amazon
| PC Sub Total | $762.31
| Monitor & Peripherals Sub Total | $212.79
| Total Build Cost | $975.10

They're easy enough to make to be honest.

Just need a 12v power supply and an induction heating module Then it's just a case of wiring it up, which is simple enough. The only bit you'll need to solder is the actual heating coil to the induction board and that's only 2 solder points so definitely minimal. put a switch on the induction heater so that it's not always on and it'll be functional. Then it's just a case of housing the parts in a nice box. If you want detachable leads then there are a few different connectors you can use but they will require more soldering. Personally I like xt60 connectors as they're easy to solder.

• MOSFET: https://www.amazon.com/Wangdd22-Printer-Expansion-Heatbed-Current/dp/B01MY50JL3
  
• Belt: https://www.amazon.com/Anycubic-Meters-Timing-Pulleys-Printer/dp/B0152ZNDLK
  
• Pulleys: https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Bearing-Timing-3D-printers/dp/B0188HW4Z0 (ships as bag of two which is exactly what is needed)
  
• Igus DryLin bushings: https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Solid-Polymer-LM8UU-Bearing/dp/B06XPRCMJS (is a pack of 7 as needed for the A8)
  
• PSU (just as an example): https://www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG
  
  All the parts listed above can be sourced cheaper, but that were the links I had at hand.

Don't skimp on the PSU. Since it's a server, I'm gonna assume that it's gonna be running more hours a day than a home PC. I'd suggest investing in a decent PSU like this one at the very least. For the pretty penny it may seem to cost upfront, it could save you a lot of time and patience down the road.

• Raspberry Pi 3 - $35
  
• Slick case with heat sinks - $6
  
• 5v 2.5a power supply - $10 (or free if you already have one)
  
• 8GB Micro SD Card - $7 (or free if you already have one)
  
• RasPlex OS - (free)
  
  Maximum Total: $58
  
  That would give you a full-fledged Plex client with all the features you mentioned (I think--someone jump in here if I'm wrong).

Look for a label bearing a reassuring phrase, such as, "Probably won't burst into flames."

You want something rated for at least 2.5 amps. (2500 mA, 2.5A)

https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/hardware/raspberrypi/power/README.md

https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4

http://www.raspyfi.com/the-best-raspberry-pi-power-supply/

http://www.raspyfi.com/power-supply-for-raspberry-pi-what-you-should-know-about/

Here you go man. With a 1070 and everything. You can also attempt to mix and match your 16GB with it and see if you like it. If you want everything brand new, you're gonna have to up your initial budget by a lot.

PC: $285 Dell Optiplex with i7 3770, 8GB of RAM, 2TB HDD, and Windows 10

GPU: $585 GTX 1070 Mini

SSD: $64 Silicon Power 240GB SSD

PSU: $58 EVGA 600W B1

• • -
    Total: $992 (A little over your old budget of $900 and way under your new budget of $1200.)

It's showing $10.99 shipping when using NCIX Ground. To process the transaction today it would be $57.99 + $10.99 = $68.98. Then a MIR of $30.00. Final price after receiving the MIR will be $38.98.

Amazon has it for $39.99 with free shipping and 2 day shipping for Prime members.

If NCIX had free shipping it may be worth it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCE8T92/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MG0733A/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4OM9R4/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A1ZTZOG/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ARHBBPS/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RORBQNW/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H33SDR4/

--

Pentium g4560 on a H270 board

GTX 1050 (non-ti)

120GB SSD

8GB RAM

430W EVGA PSU

Corsair Carbide case


$517 total

And now I regret not using pcpartpicker and just setting it to US & Amazon..

If anyone is looking for a 620W Seasonic Bronze unit, there's one from amazon for $70 here

https://www.amazon.ca/Seasonic-Bronze-80Plus-Power-Supply/dp/B003BIEOCI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493873468&sr=8-1&keywords=seasonic+s12ii

Though it's not semi-modular.

Just for price reference, I bought the 750w version a month ago for $124.99 before tax.

Based on that, I looked up the price for this version. It seems the lowest price for this 850w version was $139.99 so this isn't technically the lowest it can go. It's not terribly a bad deal for this PSU considering it's a tier 1 PSU however.

The 750w is also on for $125.

Several retailers have these on sale right now but Amazon seems to be the cheapest (free shipping).

Your friends psu was for sure 100% good ? Check for 12v and 5v coming from yours. You can get a tester for this on amazon for about 12$. https://www.amazon.com/Insten-24-pin-Power-Supply-Tester/dp/B005CTCD6S

Also available on Amazon for the same price: https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Bronze-Warranty-Supply-100-BT-0450-K1/dp/B01N9X3F8F

Everytime this PSU goes on sale I make sure to buy a few of them for my builds because it's such a good deal. If you have any questions about it I'll be happy to answer :)

If you prefer 80 Plus bronze, there is EVGA BT 450W on sale for $39.99 at amazon.ca

https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-Bronze-Warranty-Supply-100-BT-0450-K1/dp/B01N9X3F8F/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523121925&sr=8-1&keywords=evga+450bt

If you still get no video output when using the motherboard vga then it's either the PSU or the motherboard.

Power supplies can turn on, make fans spin etc but still be broken. If you are not in a hurry to get it fixed, here is a simple, cheap but essential tool you can order online to tell if the PSU is working:
Power Supply Tester

If the PSU is bad, it is probably worth it to replace it. If the mobo is bad then the cheapest way would be for you to replace it yourself.

If you take it to a shop you should call a few places and get quotes. My guess is somewhere in the $150 - $300 price range depending on the mobo and what they charge for labor.

Once you know the quoted cost of repair you can decide if it's worth fixing or replacing.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG

Keeps it all at ~12.5V. I managed to get one screw into it to hold it where the old one used to go.

Also get the mosfet to run the bed power completely independently of the controller board for another $10:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HEQVQAK/

Use some ~14ga lamp cord to tie it in. :)

I combined this power supply with this switch combo bolted down inside an ammo can as my charging setup and charger case. If you have a drill and a Dremel, you can easily do the same. That supply gives you 30 amps of 12 volts with three separate outputs. So you could run 3 of those Accucel chargers at max power, in theory.

I just spent the last week buying and printing upgrades for my new A8... I'm also new to 3D printing. Its been printing great so far.

Purchased;
Mosfet: $10 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XP4YZ9N
GT2 Belts: $9 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F0G4144
30A PSU: $20 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/
Power Socket w/ Switch & Fuse: $5 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK
Printed;
Extruder Buton: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1935151
T Corner: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1672959
Anti Z Wobble: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1858435
Y Belt Tensioner: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2149867
X Belt Tensioner: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2354736
Z Endstop Fine Adjustment: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1776429

Trust us when we say take that 1060 out. Then get a new PSU ASAP, the maximum shouldn't be more than a few days, anymore than that and say good bye PC. This is a good one to get as far as I know but I can always be wrong.

Well you'd need a new graphics card and cpu.. but to upgrade cpu... you'd need a new motherboard which means new ram aswell... and on top of that a new psu to power it all .. which basically the entire computer.. so costly
~~
Unless someone can think of a decent cpu that fits the same socket..~~

Edit: ok after some digging this is what we got:

~~CPU: Intel X6800
(http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=152054248661&alt=web )
£40 ish~~

~~RAM: 4gb Ddr2
(http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=191857898668&alt=web )
£20 ish~~

~~GPU: this is very flexible let's throw in a gtx 970 for now (it mightnt be supported this can be checked later)
(MSI NVIDIA GTX 970 Gaming Twin Frozr HDMI DVI-I DP Graphics Card (4GB, PCI Express, DDR5, 256 Bit) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00NOP536Y/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_tKtkxbGQRE3JA)
£275~~

~~Psu: 500w
(EVGA 100-W1-0500-KR - 500W 80 Plus Power Supply (100-W1-0500-KR) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_fLtkxb3Q3SQ76)
£35~~

You might want to consider a bigger hard drive maybe an ssd, also the gpu I suggested is most certainly overkill for everything else and mightnt work but it's only to give an idea for now.. I'm not even sure how well the x6800 will perform, hopefully someone more in the known can add to this

edit: i was talking rubbish

Oh my god please don't do a prebuilt from here and not likes Dell prebuilt like someone built it here. You can learn so much but buying the parts, and researching it can be a bonding experience with your son!
Edit: SORRY IN ADVANCE FOR A WALL OF TEXT!
anyway lets get this build started!
Idk what you want but for a case that looks super sexy the NZXT S340 would be a good start, cheap and nice.
CASE:NZXT S340 Mid Tower Case CA-S340MB-GR Matte Black/Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T4BWUUY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wR12xbKDZPNE8
Note: $74 Jet.com has it cheaper. (GET THE BLUE AS I MADE IT A BLUE BUILD)
CPU:Intel Core i7-2600 Quad-Core Processor 3.4 GHz 8 MB Cache LGA 1155 - BX80623I72600 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EBUXSU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nT12xb7BECNJC
Note: $164
MOTHERBOARD: ASUS P8H61-M LE/CSM R2.0 LGA 1155 Intel H61 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008NA1K0S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_b112xb1T6M7HK
Note: $94
RAM: PNY Anarchy 8GB Kit (2x4GB) DDR3 2133MHz (PC3-17000) CL10 Desktop Memory (BLUE) - MD8GK2D3213310AB-Z https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012DT0IB6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_h412xb3VC5JNW
Note: $45
POWER SUPPLY: EVGA 500 W1, 80+ WHITE 500W, 3 Year Warranty, Power Supply 100-W1-0500-KR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_E512xb56068FP
Note: $37
GRAPHICS CARD: ASUS ROG STRIX Radeon RX 460 4GB OC Edition AMD Gaming Graphics Card (STRIX-RX460-O4G-GAMING) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K1JVQI4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_z712xbFGF2Y2T
Note: $140

TOTAL: $554

Edit 2: As your budget is $600 and I don't know how lenient you are with going over or what, but an Asus RX 470 would be a better graphics card and would increase the total to around $650.

Edit 3:
AFTERMARKET CPU COOLER:Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120mm PWM Fan (RR-212E-20PK-R2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_E-12xbR7ZCHBK
Note: $28

Edit 4: If you want peripherals that's gonna be around $1000 in total for decent crap. I would suggest a 1080p 60hz monitor, a mechanical keyboard ( I use a G. Skillz KM780 RGB and it is fabulous), a nice pair of headphones HyperX cloud 2, and a nice set of speakers Logitech Z506. Also idk what you have but get a wifi adapter as well unless you can hook up to Ethernet which is highly recommended.

Edit 5: If any other questions just PM me glad to help you out more.

Edit 6: shit I forgot drives and OS. I'm too tired to link things anymore so I suggest getting a 128gb Samsung PRO SSD for your OS and main shit then get a Seagate 1TB HDD and you're good to go. Hopefully I covered everything.

Honestly 500-600 wouldn't make a very decent computer for a first rig. You can make one and well I made one just right now but that doesn't take into account peripherals. If you wanted 500-600 WITH peripherals that would have been the hardest budget build of my life. To maintain quality and performance, I'm cringing just thinking of it.

Definitely cutting it close. Under load its possible your card and CPU could ramp up past 380w. I would suggest this EVGA 500W power supply to give yourself a little more breathing room.


https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1BPFVFF5CZWEJ&keywords=evga+500w&qid=1567733542&s=gateway&sprefix=evga+500%2Caps%2C172&sr=8-1

a better deal: https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482520396&sr=8-1&keywords=psu

Oooh I like this build. I was looking for a wifi-enabled motherboard for cheaper for you. No dice. Consider downgrading the motherboard and using a PCIe or USB wifi adapter.

Your PSU is overpowered. A 500W will do just fine. Consider downgrading this part unless you intend to buy a second GPU and pop those in SLI in the future. That is actually an option for you.

RAM is still overpriced and word is this will continue to about January. Consider buying one stick of 8GB now and a second stick later on if you need the speed. One thing to absolutely note here is that you have 3000MHz RAM in your list, but the board only officially supports 2666. Please be careful with your RAM. I would buy some cheapo RAM, just one stick of 8GB 2666 and another around January when the prices drop. This will move your bottleneck to the RAM... but that should be the case today based on today's prices.

This build is missing storage, do you have your own? That motherboard supports NVMe storage and should probably be filled at some point in it's lifespan to get the most out of that motherboard

Insofar as the case is concerned... it's white. White works well with white parts... but you have other colors there, too. Consider a black case so that the motherboard doesn't stick out like a sore thumb in there with orange heat blocks and lettering. Or find a motherboard with white heatsinks (they exist) and grab some white RAM.

If I were you, the first step I would take is to get rid of the PSU. I will come to that later.

If you are a casual gamer, then 60hz will be more than enough. The rest depends on you. You also need it for graphics, so an IPS panel is a must. Price will depend on what screen size you want.

Now coming to the important thing, discard that PSU. Don't cheap out on an important component. I will list you good PSUs with room for future upgrade from one of my recent comment. These are all good PSUs, and you can blindly choose any of them. Prices will be low if you check out local sellers. You can buy 520/550w PSU, but that is purely your choice. I suggested 650w cause you will have ample room if you decide to buy even more powerful Graphics card. Don't go for any 450w PSU.

If you are sure you might try SLI in near future, then you must get at least a minimum of 850w.

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-RM650x-Modular-Supply-Certified/dp/B015YEIBJ8

http://www.amazon.in/Seasonic-SSR-550RT-S12G-Power-Supply/dp/B00FW6EICS

http://www.amazon.in/Seasonic-M12II-620-M12II-620-Watt-Modular/dp/B003HE260I

Or

http://www.amazon.in/Seasonic-S12II-620-BRONZE-SS-620GB/dp/B003BIEOCI

This is a bit of an overkill, but a great PSU from EVGA
http://www.amazon.in/SuperNOVA-750WSemi-Modular-Crossfire-110-B2-0750-VR/dp/B00KFAFRW6

i'd suggest a better power supply like the seasonic 620

(http://www.amazon.com/Seasonic-80Plus-M12II-620-BRONZE/dp/B003HE260I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1380903130&sr=8-1&keywords=seasonic+620)

Note: we use affiliate links, it doesn't add anything to your price but it does mean that if you buy these parts through the links below, it helps us out!

**


So about as close as I can get to that sort of price, giving you more performance for your money (just by building yourself) is as follows:

• CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X
  
  Rather than a 6-core, 6-thread CPU in the your above build, we've gone instead for a 8-core, 16-thread CPU. This will give you far more performance for productivity and is one of the main keys with Adobe. The more CPU performance you can throw at it the better, so this is a bit of a no-brainer. AMD also provide a really good quality cooler in the box, so no need to get an extra one.
  
  
• RAM: G.SKILL Sniper X 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4 3200MHz
  
  
  So we're very specifically jumping up here again to a lot more RAM (32GB) and it's a lot faster too. Again, this is a must with Adobe as when it renders video it'll dump the files through the RAM, so the more you have the better. Plus having this much helps with caching in general as well as overall multitasking performance.
  
  
• Motherboard: MSI B450-A PRO
  
  Pretty much comes singing and dancing. However, when you purchase, make sure this has the recent BIOS update for the newer CPU you're buying. Newegg support are usually good for confirming this before your purchase just through their chat service, so if you ask them if this item of stock has the update to use the above linked CPU, they'll confirm that for you. (99% of new stock out there has had updated BIOS already now, so it's not really an issue, yet it's always worth double checking).
  
  
• GPU: GTX 1660
  
  This part we can leave the same really. Adobe isn't super GPU intensive, preferring CPU over anything else, so this is powerful enough for anything your camera can chuck out. If you ever feel like doing a LOT more color grading, 3D animation work down the line, then this is the part you'd need to look at upgrading to something a bit more powerful. Yet until then, this is perfectly fine.
  
  
• Main Storage: WesternDigital 2TB HDD
  
  A large traditional storage as believe you me, you'll end up using it once you've finished with projects. Only use this for storage of files after you're done with them as well as installing your software onto this. This drive gives you double what you had in the above build alone, so it's more to fill up ;)
  
  
• Performance Drive: Intel 660 1TB SSD
  
  This is your "work" drive. So when you're working on video, store it on this. When you're saving your projects, save it on this. When you're doing the initial render (before storing it) do it onto this. This has a 1800MB/s read and write speed, so while budget is a bit of an issue we're going with a larger drive so you can use it for a lot of purposes. You'll eventually find your bigger upgrade here is having multiple M.2 drives rather than just 1, so you can run them in RAID for even better performance and data security but as that'd normally be in a much bigger build than the budget, this is plenty for now and gives far more fast storage than the original build.
  
  
• PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G3
  
  An improved power supply to provide more overheads and power protection against things like surges and sudden power loss. Also fully modular, so it's again really easy to build with.
  
  
• Case: Phanteks Eclipse P400
  
  I'm more than a little impartial with this case as my current gaming build is in this but it's such a nice sleek looking case for everything.
  
  
• OS: Windows 10 Home
  
  Last piece of the puzzle. This just comes on USB so once you've built the PC, you just plug this into one of the USB ports on the front of the case and your system will go through the installation for you. Nice and simple :)
  
  Total Price: $1262.92
  
  
  That's about as good as I can do at first glance. The thing about PC building yourself is that it's very customization friendly! So although I've given this build, you could probably post in other places and get slightly different answers. Main thing is the CPU, RAM and giving you enough storage.

SanDisk as a brand isn't bad, but COULD BE better. See if you can spring for a Samsung drive. It's not like it's C or D tier, but Sandisk isn't A tier that's for sure. The MSI board you've chosen is probably fine; but we've seen some issues with reliability over time - especially with the more budget-focused sub 100 dollar boards.

GPU is a bargain. Great cooling on it. Phanteks is kicking butt in the case market these days. Corsair always amazing -- BUT their TXM line is NOT high quality. It's built by a third party manufacturer last I checked.

See if you can spring for an EVGA G3. Worlds better quality.

What power supply are you using?

I experienced freezes with my Pi 3 until I got the recommended power adapter, which puts out 2.5A @ 5V (a very non-standard configuration for a USB power supply, I might add, so if you're using a generic power adapter, you're likely not giving the Pi the power it's asking for).

Here's the recommended power supply. Might wanna take a look at the one you're using and see if it's rated for 2.5A.

I have yet to encounter any problems with this one.

the most important thing is the SD card. I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Class-Micro-Adapter-MB-MC32DA/dp/B00WR4IJBE/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1495118025&sr=1-6&keywords=Samsung+Micro+SD+EVO%2B also a proper power supply: https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1495118069&sr=1-3&keywords=pi+power+supply

EVGA 500 B1, 80+ BRONZE 500W $46,94

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-BRONZE-Supply-Warranty-100-B1-0500-KR/dp/B00DZ6R9GE/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1482917942&sr=1-4&keywords=psu&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A6906983011%7C6906984011%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A2888266011

So just to clarify, this PSU isnt noticeably inferior to the EVGA 600W 80+? (Link: https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Bronze-100-B1-0600-KR-Power-Supply/dp/B00EON40CS)

For a i5-6500, radeon 480 build, does anyone think that the Bronze is a better bet, or is this version ($15 cheaper) the correct buy?

From your other topic for anyone else interested in this kind of project:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD A6-6400K 3.9GHz Dual-Core Processor | $49.19 @ Amazon
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-F2A68HM-H Micro ATX FM2+ Motherboard | $39.99 @ Amazon
Memory | Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $27.99 @ Amazon
Case | Rosewill Line-M MicroATX Mini Tower Case | $39.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | EVGA 430W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply | $29.85 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | ~$186.01
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-13 18:15 EDT-0400 |
That CPU has about 2.2k passmark score, enough for one 1080 stream (about 2k score per client). The 8gb ram is probably overkill, but it's cheap so why not. About 134 watt consumption if you run headless. Have fun :)

CHANGE NOW!!!!!! If you have the bank go with the evga p2 supernova but if not stick with an evga bronze or silver listed [here] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DZ6R9GE/ref=twister_B01G69E69E?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1)

Not a fan of that PSU, especially considering ryzen chips draw quite a bit of power when overclocked. You can find 500w 80+ bronze ones for about 30-40 bucks right now. And yes, there is a difference in efficiency from 80+ and 80+ bronze.

Edit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DZ6R9GE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500427322&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=500w+bronze&dpPl=1&dpID=4158jP7Q8kL&ref=plSrch

Oh... That's not good. You'll need to get a new PSU too. This one will be good - https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-BRONZE-Warranty-Tester-100-B1-0600-KR/dp/B00EON40CS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473355683&sr=8-2&keywords=evga+psu

Make sure everything fits, usually those Dell cases aren't designed for upgradability.

Is this the same as 600 B1? If it is, I think amazon price matched.
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-BRONZE-Warranty-Tester-100-B1-0600-KR/dp/B00EON40CS

The 600b is great for that build and is currently on sale for $40. https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-BRONZE-Warranty-Tester-100-B1-0600-KR/dp/B00EON40CS

Looks like a really good build. I will put part links in the end of the post. Here's some tips to save a bit of money if you're open to it:

1. Power supply: 550 watts is a great amount for this system. You could save some money by passing on the 80+ gold rating (although it's great to have a super efficient power supply, you don't need 80+ gold) and get a power supply that has an 80+ bronze efficiency rating. A power supply being fully modular isn't a must either, for me at least. A good semi-modular pick would be the Rosewill Hive 550, I have it and it has has sleeved black cables for about $55. If you want to save more money on the PSU, though, the EVGA basic 550W unit has all black cables and goes for around $43. Otherwise, the 600B from EVGA is a great 600W unit for around $50. Changing your power supply with these options might save you around $30-$40.
   
2. RAM: there are 16GB kits out there that are cheaper than the ones you selected, some are even in red to match your color scheme. I know there is a kit from Corsair that goes for around $80, so that might save you $20-$30 there. Otherwise, if you can't afford 16GB at the beginning of the build, 8GB will suffice until you upgrade. Just make sure if you get 8GB, get a single stick so you can throw another one in later. 8GB instead of 16 GB may save you $30-$40.
   
3. CPU cooler: The i5 6500 comes with its own stock cooler, so you can save around $25 by not paying for a CPU cooler right away. Otherwise, the 212 Evo is a superb cooler and also comes in a red LED fan version for a few bucks more :D
   
4. GPU: The GTX 1060 is a great option for a video card, but the RX 480 from AMD might be able to save you a few bucks right now and down the road. When you look to purchase another monitor, options with FreeSync (AMD adaptive sync) are normally cheaper than monitors with G-Sync (Nvidia adaptive sync). Adaptive sync monitors will make your gameplay smoother. Also, if you get a motherboard that supports crossfire, you can throw another RX 480 in your rig in the future. I will recommend you a motherboard for this at the end, and it won't cost you much more than your current one. An RX 480 8GB starts at around $230. Also, RX 480's are said to be better in DX12, another "future proofer".
   
5. Motherboard (minor): H110 is a budget chipset, and a Micro ATX one will save you a bit of money. BUT, if you want another RX 480, you'll need a motherboard with 2 PCIe slots to house them. An ATX motherboard will fill your case better, not look as awkward as a mATX one, and will let you put another RX 480 card in your rig in the future. A good ATX motherboard that would work for this build would be the Asus B150-PLUS for $95. This may be a bit expensive, but you could spend your saved money on this part. I highly suggest you exercise this option.
   
6. Storage: if 250GB is enough for you, then you could save some money by not getting a Samsung SSD. An SSD comparable to this would be the Crucial MX300 275GB for around $80. Also, the SanDisk z400s is $75 and is 256GB. If you want more storage, though, I would recommend a 120GB SSD like the PNY CS1311 for $40 and a 1TB hard drive like the WD Blue for $50.
   
   
   TL;DR: cut back on PSU efficiency ratings, look for different 16GB or even 8GB RAM kits, ditch CPU cooler (or keep if you want), get an RX 480 for saving money on future monitors, you can also put another RX 480 in your build in the future with a different motherboard; an ATX motherboard would fill your case and add capability for a second RX 480, a non-Samsung SSD could save you some money, while for $100, you can get an SSD and a 1TB hard drive.
   
   
   Links:
   “Basic” EVGA 550W
   Rosewill Hive-550
   EVGA 600B
   Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO LED
   RX 480 -choose which one you like
   Asus B150-PLUS
   Crucial MX 300 275GB
   SanDisk Z400S 256GB
   WD Blue 1TB
   
   
   I hope my advice helped you and that this didn't overwhelm you. If you save enough money, you could throw in a red LED PWM fan, which adjusts its speed based on your computer's needs. You could maybe even throw in an LED strip or two. I had a lot of fun making this, thanks for posting :D
   

Wait a minute! I redid the build using Amazon instead of PCPartPicker. Better build for cheaper. Give me a second!

Here is the build:

• Windows 7
  
• EVGA 430W Power Supply
  
• Western Digital Caviar Blue 1 TB HDD
  
• Rosewill Ranger-M Case
  
• EVGA GTX 750 Ti Superclocked
  
• Kingston HyperX Blu 8 GB RAM
  
• Gigabyte Motherboard
  
• AMD Athlon X4 760K CPU
  
• DVD Drive
  
  
  Comes to a grand total (with prime shipping) of $610.28!
  
  

I am not sure. I say just don't take the risk and buy a cheap PSU, there are many great budget PSUs for around $30 like this one.

550W is overkill for this. You could go with a 300W unit or whatever is cheaper.

$29 EVGA 430W 80+

For those that have amazon Prime, I'd hop on this. I just bought one and I don't have to deal with the MIR

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0430-KR/dp/B00H33SDR4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481315921&sr=8-2&keywords=430w+power+supply

You are probably fine, but since PSU's are pretty cheap I would consider an upgrade to prevent any issues.

​

I can attest to the longevity and performance of this one, been running in my rig for 4 years now.

https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-100-W1-0500-KR-WHITE-Warranty-Supply/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=psu&qid=1563207863&s=gateway&sr=8-2

You could check continuity on each pin with a multimeter.
You could also use a Power Supply Tester like this one.

I bought this corsair......man I'm getting nervous. Hope this thing comes together =)

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ALK3KEM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So, the Pioneer GM-7200 is a Car Power Amp? Yes?

Does it have any controls on it - Crossover, Phase, Volume,....?

The thing you need is the controls I spoke of. If you do not have those, there may be a way around it, but it is going to give you limited flexibility.

If the amp is a Car Stereo Power Amp, then the first thing you will need is a beefy 12v Power Supply.

Current = Power / Voltage

So, 400w / 12v = 33.333 AMPS

You need about a 30 amp to 40 amp Power Supply.

Some thing along the line of this -

https://www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG

I make no claim for the quality of this power supply, it was simply the first one that came up on a search.

https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=30a+12v+power+supply&safe=off&tbm=shop

If you have an AV Receiver, then we assume reasonably that it has Bass Management. Meaning, it will set the crossover frequency for the Sub.

So, that should cover the basics. When you run the Setup program for the AV Receiver, it should adjust the volume of the Sub to match the other speakers.

Steve/bluewizard

This is excellent information, thank you. It's been a bit overwhelming looking at all the mods out there which are a "definitely do this before you print anything or you'll burn your house down" and "this helps but can probably wait for now".

I've already soldered the wires to the heated bed and started installing a mosfet for the bed as well. (Sounds like one isn't really needed for the hot end?)


Do I need something like the 500w ATX PSU, or can I get away with something like this (recommended by the Punished Props Anet safety upgrade page)

Can you tell me more about that fix for the heater block with kapton tape? I saw it recommended that I switch to one of these? (recommended by the letsprint3d.net Anet safety mods page)

This. My power supply was dead on arrival and wouldn't fire up. The ones that ship with the kit are kinda crap.

Bought this one on Amazon and it's been great for 1.5 years.

eTopxizu 12v 30a Dc Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply 360w for CCTV, Radio, Computer Project https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Gmb4Cb8FSPKHQ

Only downside is it won't directly screw to the frame. I have mine sitting next to the printer.

I've done similar to several old drills. Usually adapting to run on car batteries.

You want to use the plus and minus terminals, the other is a temperature sensor for the charger.

Making it so that you can still use the original battery is a little trickier. I've used a dowel as a dummy battery to hold the contacts in place on a Makita.

Drills will need a power supply that delivers about 10 amps. an old dumb battery charger will work. Or you can get something like this.

To answer your question directly:

12v 30a Dc Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply 360w for CCTV, Radio, Computer Project

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_JgaFwbK9DGQ1E

Assuming your i3 is 12 volts not 24.

You should definitely replace it. I replaced my stock A8 PSU with this one: eTopxizu 12v 30a Dc Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply 360w for CCTV, Radio, Computer Project https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pye9AbCXGDZ5C

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00D7CWSCG/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1464231755&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=12+volt+power+supply+switching&dpPl=1&dpID=41uyGgXDhEL&ref=plSrch

Theres a pot you can adjust to bring the voltage up closer to 13.8. I dont have one but the reviews all looked pretty good.

Those are indeed 10W warm white LEDs.

It's been running 12/12 for about 3 weeks with no issues. The LEDs don't get as hot as the buck boosters I'm using to drive them to 11.2V each.

The power supply was basically this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

>5 months ago

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/

Powerwerx from HRO

.

Samlex from DXE

.

If you want to go cheap, you can try one of these from Amazon. You'll need to add things such as wiring up a power cord and putting it into an enclosure, twisting the pots to get the exact voltage you need, checking that voltage periodically, etc, etc. It does take some more work to make it all work. I have one of these, and it works. However, I also have a Powerwerx and I like that better.

.

Personally, I'd recommend the Powerwerx. You can optionally pop the cover off and bolt the TM-V71A bracket right to the PSU and wire the TM-V71A to the posts on the back. That leaves the powerpoles on the front to power other things.

It was the PSU! I replaced it with this one and now I'm printing again!

Don't forget to check the bed control board on the back wall of the control box. Mine arrived with a wire loose.

There are 4 wires, two thin ones that go to the control board, and two thicker ones direct to the power supply, very short distance.

Also UNPLUGGED you might check the screws and wires on the power supply, one may have come off and shorted somewhere.

If that's true, it blew the power supply. (Bad news)

Good news - they're cheap to replace.

Here's one on Amazon that works:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG

I looked closely at your pics and all looks OK, it's probably the power supply. Be happy, it's the least expensive thing in there!

Seriously, look for loose wires, the big ones that are screwed on, not the little ones with white plugs. Look both at the terminal block of the power supply and where those wires go into the motherboard.

If no joy there, (and just to be thorough) check the wires to the bed and turn the printer over and check the bed heater with good lighting. You'll know if you see a problem ....

Good Luck!

PuterPro

I would classify that as "potential system killer". Do yourself a favor and upgrade ASAP.

Here's a decent 500w PSU that won't break the bank or your components.

Edit: Here's a handy guide for PSU quality tiers

heres a evga bronze 500w one for around the same price which I think is better than this 600w. https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-BRONZE-Supply-Warranty-100-B1-0500-KR/dp/B00DZ6R9GE

IMO, I'd get this psu instead -- roughly the same price, WAAAY more reviews (so, presumably, more consistent).


Also, for a couple more dollars, you can double your HDD storage.

I built one earlier this year (and another for a friend):

• Pi3, $37
  
• case, $6
  
• power supply, $10
  
• microSD card, $10
  
  So for about $60, you have the hardware. Assembly is easy. The software part is relatively trivial:
  
  
• Download ROMs
  
• Download disk image for RetroPi
  
• Install the image (download a tool to help) onto the SD card (may need a USB adapter)
  
• Upload the ROMs on to the image
  
• Plug it in to your TV
  
  It works with a wide array of controllers. I use my PS4 controllers with it and it works like a champ.

Out of curiosity, is a 550W PSU, gold certified or otherwise, recommended for the specs listed above?
I have basically the same model PSU but EVGA running an i5-8400, 8 GB RAM at 3000 mHz, and a 1060 6GB. I know it's more than enough for what I'm running, but would that be the case for OP's specs?

Get this psu instead


EVGA SuperNOVA 650 G2, 80+ GOLD 650W, Fully Modular, EVGA ECO Mode, 7 Year Warranty, Includes FREE Power On Self Tester Power Supply 220-G2-0650-Y1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0106RDIN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sXJyzbZD1CXJR

G2 which I see people here claim it's quieter/better is 7.75$ more

You'll want a better PSU.

This should cover you for all future upgrades. PSU's are critical. It's not wise to skimp on them.

Other than that, you could use better RAM, but it's not 100% needed.

I'd go with this psu over the one you have there. http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Modular-Crossfire-Warranty-210-GQ-0650-V1/dp/B017HA3SQ8

I'm sorry, what does GS/PS mean? Is that in reference to the rating of the PSU? like Gold/Platinum? I have a 650W Gold EVGA PSU and a white case, I would love to buy these cables but I'm confused as to whether I should or not....

this is my powersupply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017HA3SQ8/ref=twister_B01LXKQ07C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

That's pretty borderline. If you're spending $1167 on a rig you can spend an extra $30 compared to the other PSU on a high quality PSU like this one.

• Posted 4 days ago, but thread got deleted (expired?).
  
• https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/4kdf2g/discussion_evga_g1_vs_evga_gq_which_is_better/
  
• https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/comments/66zsov/psu_evga_650w_gq_semimodular_80_plus_gold_6091/
  
• https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/comments/4gpmz8/psu_evga_650gq_80_plus_gold_8010_price_match_20/
  
• 650W at 80% efficiency draws 780W. 90% draws 715W.

If you're willing to step down to a semi modular power supply, then this would be a good choice

It's not made by Super Flower or Seasonic, but it scored pretty high on JonnyGuru.

EVGA G3 650W PSU

Its actually on sale right now for 90$. EVGA is amazing when it comes to warranties and RMA as well.

You should switch the 1070Ti for a Vega 64 that is going for $400 now. Then buy a monitor with the same specs as yours except add FreeSync. With the money you save, you can buy a 1TB ADATA XPG 8200, That is 3x the speed of an 860evo.

https://www.rakuten.com/shop/adata/product/ASX8200NP-960GT-C/ - $157.00 w/code CYBER20.

This is a way better SSD. Secondly, I'd get this monitor: https://m.newegg.com/products/0JC-0081-00016?ignorebbr=true&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-Mobile&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-Mobile-_-pla-_-Gaming+Monitors-_-0JC-0081-00016&gclsrc=aw.ds&gclid=CjwKCAiA0O7fBRASEiwAYI9QArke4IV60srQdwSQext8pHe-xCFr1FEmt9RtQKenrCscC52QtJxlIhoCS-sQAvD_BwE
You'll save ~230$ or so with FreeSync. You'll save another $70 with this Vega 64: https://m.newegg.com/products/N82E16814202326
You also get 3 FREE games worth $150.
With all this money saved, drop the wifi adapter for another $60 saved. Then pick up a Ryzen 2700x. https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/dp/B07B428M7F/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1543247961&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ryzen+2700x&psc=1
This deal is only 65$ more. Then pick up a X470 motherboard: https://www.amazon.com/TUF-X470-Plus-Gaming-Ryzen-Motherboard/dp/B07C5YR3KS/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1543248089&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=x470+motherboard+wifi&dpPl=1&dpID=51F37Nfqa0L&ref=plSrch
This is a great motherboard with WiFi. You can find a different one either wifi, and probably get a better deal. This will run you 130$, so around $60 more. Your PSU is meh. This one is the same price and is AMAZING. https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Supernova-Modular-Warranty-220-G3-0650-Y1/dp/B01LYGFRL6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1543248296&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=evga+supernova+650
Great deal for $5 less. You save around $250 for a much better build overall.

Get this https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Supernova-Modular-Warranty-220-G3-0650-Y1/dp/B01LYGFRL6/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=evga+650w&qid=1558047606&s=gateway&sr=8-1

You can also grab this on Amazon for the same price and two day delivery if you have prime here.

Really solid parts, though I’m sure you could do better with the PSU. Maybe a silver or gold rated one? I can recommend this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYGFRL6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_oYyou4e2FOgl2

I’ve had this exact one for about a year now and I pretty much leave my pc continuously running, never had any problems, can’t say anything bad.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079JSKCW3/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075SBFGRB/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VB3Y89E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BP7RQTT/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013JPLOQQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DJ6A88G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LYGFRL6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XSMTN31/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0759FTRZL/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ARGXM0Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Total as of right now for available purchase is around $800 with out taxes! I spent $742! I just put things i want into my cart on amazon and when the price drops i buy! I do shop around other websites and amazon still was the better choice and with free non-prime shipping! who cares if it comes two days later than normal. shoot ive had things come after two days with the free shipping.

It should be fine. Although, here's an EVGA 450 watt 80+ Bronze for $40 bucks and free shipping. https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Bronze-Warranty-Supply-100-BT-0450-K1/dp/B01N9X3F8F

It's this one https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Bronze-Warranty-Supply-100-BT-0450-K1/dp/B01N9X3F8F/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493107032&sr=8-1&keywords=evga+450w+bt

Would a 450w bronze work such as this one

Some extra notes that may be helpful...

• Currently the EVGA 450w 80+ bronze psu is on sale on Amazon for $22 + tax. If you're not in a rush, can usually find a 400-450w psu in the $20-30 range, sometimes rebates are required.
  
• Similar case to the source 210 is the Coolermaster N400. Again, if you have time to wait, this can be found for ~$30 after MIR (price i paid for mine). Has the same amount of drive bays and space.
  
  Considering both of these options would bring the price down to the ~$245-$250 range, can put the savings towards a shiny new SSD for it.

IKR!?! I got a Samsung 850 EVO 120GB for $50 the other day on Ebay, an RGB/Mechanical Keyboard for $9, I'm eyeing this BUDGET EVGA MODULAR PSU:: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZY55HPT/ref=twister_B01G69E69E?th=1

Which is at $50 OR the non modular version for $27 (which I have seen dip to as low as 22) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9X3F8F/ref=twister_B01G69E69E?th=1

For the case I think I'm gonna go with the P400S, black/white. However not sure if I can get this on sale anytime soon. Phanteks/Bitfenix showcased some pretty dope RGB/TempGlass budget cases @ Computex but they won't be out until Q3.

RAM - well u know, buy whats cheapest

GPU - Aorus RX 570 is the best price/performance for 1080p. but fuck those miners, hope the sweet sweet 4XX sales return but for the 5XX series.

CPU - G4560 or a cheap i5-K processor (Skylake).

Ughh still so much time to wait :/

Lol another case of seller's remorse? Did you see the ones they have on Amazon now? $21.99 with Prime for a 450W EVGA 80+ bronze

Just picked this up for a budget build.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N9X3F8F/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Brand new 750 G2 for 128.82 + tax = $144.27 shipped to BC.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00IKDETOW/?tag=pcp0f-20

Heres the build:

CPU: $135 : e5 2670 v1 (x2)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0163AWD96/ref=dp_olp_used?ie=UTF8&condition=used


MOBO: $ 361 : Asus Z9PA-D8

http://www.amazon.com/Asus-Intel-LGA-Motherboard-Z9PA-D8-ASMB6-IKVM/dp/B00BRF7DAC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1461960263&sr=8-1&keywords=z9pa-d8

Ram: $305 : Kingston 16gb ddr3 ecc (x4)

http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=W64GER16K&c=CJ

Case: $94 : Rosewill 4U Rack

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147155&cm_re=4u_case-_-11-147-155-_-Product

CPU Coolers : $46 : Cooler Master Hyper T4 (x2)

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BSKY1M4/?tag=pcpapi-20

Storage: $64 : Crucial 240gb ssd

http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-BX200-240GB-Internal-Solid/dp/B016JREGAC/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1461961476&sr=1-1&keywords=crucial+ssd

PSU: $99 : EVGA Supernova 750

http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Crossfire-Warranty-220-G2-0750-XR/dp/B00IKDETOW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1461965314&sr=1-1&keywords=evga+750w


Total: $1104.00

http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Crossfire-Warranty-220-G2-0750-XR/dp/B00IKDETOW/ref=sr_1_1?s=software&ie=UTF8&qid=1464573103&sr=8-1&keywords=evga+750+g2 $109 with prime shipping, shipping will be $20 or more(I shipped a psu not too long ago only 1 state away and it was like $18 already)

Can someone tell me how this is better than this psu? Was about to purchase the evga unit but not sure if it’s good compared to this.
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-220-G2-0750-XR/dp/B00IKDETOW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540587529&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=evga+750w+g2&dpPl=1&dpID=51VBQdIVkOL&ref=plSrch

750 watts should be fine. This one is pretty good.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKDETOW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JVh5Bb88K8XEF

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IKDETOW/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1450426191&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX118_SY170_QL70&keywords=evga+power+supply&dpPl=1&dpID=51VBQdIVkOL&ref=plSrch

This :)

Only $80 new on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-120-G1-0650-XR/dp/B00K85X2AW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491762667&sr=8-1&keywords=evga+supernova+650

I was able to build everything new for just a bit over - needed to watch pricing after the fact, as some came down after I bought and got Newegg to match. There are cheaper storage solutions and cases as well, so you could get right into that $1000 area. Of course, taxes could hurt you, no sales tax for me though.

The EVGA Powersupply 650 G1 80+ Gold Cert for $70 is good, if you can get the rebate, even better, it would be $50. I bought on Newegg last week and price matched today. You could try chatting with Newegg to see if they'll match the price and if you'd still be able to get the rebate (maybe don't mention that part). Their current price is $105, it was $89.99 when I purchased. Rebate is only for Newegg purchase.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K85X2AW/ref=s9_acsd_bw_wf_a_BTSmainw_cdl_32?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-4&pf_rd_r=16BCMHKT6Q98M5Q5JMD2&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=1749fad4-cd02-4c84-87c1-8c721b9be7d9&pf_rd_i=15201447011


PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor | Purchased For $129.99
Motherboard | ASRock - AB350 Pro4 ATX AM4 Motherboard | Purchased For $54.99
Memory | G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | Purchased For $164.99
Storage | Western Digital - Blue 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | Purchased For $74.99
Storage | Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | Purchased For $46.99
Video Card | NVIDIA - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Founders Edition Video Card | Purchased For $549.00
Case | NZXT - S340 (Black/Blue) ATX Mid Tower Case | Purchased For $36.99
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | Purchased For $50.00
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1107.94
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-03-26 09:00 EDT-0400 |

You may eed to add on OS in there as well - I was able to get a free version via educational means... look around for that opportunity. Unless you are going to just move your key (if that's possible).

I run rigs of 6x 1070s and pull 775w from the wall from dual EVGA Supernova 650w PSUs which are outlined in the wiki. This is with a +600MHz memory overclock and a 75% power limit.

Here'a a list of PSUs that have my exact example: https://www.reddit.com/r/EtherMining/wiki/hardware/psu

Separate Power supply for sure.

A pi 3 needs a beefy supply, like this one

Are you planning on using Octoprint?

It isn't difficult, don't get intimidated. You can do this in an evening without any experience. You'll need a Pi, a Pi case, a Pi power adapter, a microSD card, a monitor encoder (if you tell me which model monitor you have, I'll send you a link for the encoder for it (NOT WHICH GAME YOU HAVE -- the model numbers vary even for the same titles -- just take the back panel off and read me the model number, it's in bold white text on a sticker on the back of the monitor)), some USB encoders to plug your buttons and joysticks into the Pi (grab two of these), and two buttons to use for coin/select (you will have to do some very minor drilling into that little black diagonal panel between the kick panel and the control panel to mount these; don't be scared though, even if you mess it up, you can get a piece of 1/8" MDF and paint it black for under $5 to replace it).

For instructions on installing, see here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=09DQCOr6zQM - just ignore the products he tells you to use, since you'll be using the stock joysticks and buttons and getting just the encoders. The installation for everything else is the same.

https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4

This was on page one of google. I don’t know what you are doing wrong, but I’ve found 2.5A power supplies quite easily.

it will do basic tasks but expect it to crash under any which are moderately intense

heres the 'official' one. but just look around for one where on the label it says 5v 2.5A (five volts, 2.4 amps) & the amps may be listed as 2000mA like in your picture.(1A = 1000mA)

good chance you may have one powering/charging something else =)

Look at /r/retropie - it's more focused on these projects.

At minimum, you'll want: a [Raspberry Pi 3 ($35)](
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CD5VC92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Sb.pzbAZKNASG), a case ($7-$20), a power supply ($10), an HDMI cable ($7), one or two controllers ($15-$30 each), and a micro SD card ($22 for a Class 10 64 GB). There are a lot of threads about which controllers are best - I'm a fan of the wireless 8bitdo SNES30 / SFC30 (usually cheaper on eBay).

You don't need any programming experience to set it up, though you may need to edit some configuration files to set certain things up properly. I've built 2 of these to date - they play anything up to and including PlayStation 1 consistently well. N64 is very hit and miss, though Mario Kart 64 and Kirby 64 work well.

I just got done building a new Kodi box and I have to tell you its the only thing I've ever built that's normie approved. And by that I mean my wife, kids, and a hoard of cousins.

I used a RPi 3 + LibreELEC and hats off to the LibreELEC team because the thing reboots in 17 seconds and I haven't had a single skip or buffer problem on 1080p video.

Part | Price | Link
-----|-------|-----
Raspberry Pi 3 | $41 | https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-RASP-PI-3-Model-Motherboard/dp/B01CD5VC92
Power Adapter | $10 | https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4
SD Card | $10 | https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Memory-SDSDU-032G-U46-Change-Version/dp/B00812K4V4
Case | $20 | https://flirc.tv/more/raspberry-pi-case-ke
Rii i8+ 2.4GHz Mini Wireless Keyboard | $22 | https://www.amazon.com/Rii-Wireless-Keyboard-Touchpad-Rechargable/dp/B00Z81U3YY
HDMI Cable | $06 | https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable-Standard/dp/B014I8SIJY
Ethernet Cable | $05 | https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-RJ45-Cat-6-Ethernet-Patch-Cable-10-Feet-3-Meters/dp/B00N2VISLW
OS | $00 | https://libreelec.tv
Total | $114 |

I think one of these should be on every TV.

Don't forget a good power supply or micro usb cable.

Haven't had any issues with my China 5v 3A adapter -- but I'm not OC'd - try reverting back to standard clock and see if the bolt goes away - if it does you might need to get a larger/better power supply ( I've seen a few reports saying the Canakit supply doesn't actually provide 2.5A @ 5V )

For example this review on Amazon by Chris Satterleeon April 4, 2016 ( https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4 )

He does some Testing and includes a chart which shows it and says :

"
An interesting point is where the curves cross their rated current values. The Kootek 2.0A supply crosses 2.0A at about 4.6V (2.04.6 = 9.2W). The Canakit 2.5A supply crosses 2.5A at about 4.5V (2.54.5 = 11.25W). Both of these are well below 5V. Probably high enough that the RPi won't crash, but cutting it close.

Another interesting point is where the curves cross 5.0V. The Kootek 2.0A supply crosses 5.0V at about 0.8A (0.85.0 = 4.0W). The Canakit 2.5A supply crosses 5.0V at about 1.0A (1.05.0 = 5.0W).

People who are claiming that this supply doesn't deliver 2.5A are correct - if they are expecting it to deliver 2.5A at 5.0V. But what is important is whether the supply is sufficient for the RPi 3. All I can say for sure is that it does deliver proportionally more power than a 2.0A-rated power supply that has worked fine for me with the Gen 1 RPi B+. For that reason, I'm giving it four stars. "


So by the time it hits 2.5A the voltage has dropped to 4.5V which may be the reason the lightning bolt is showing if the case adds even a small amount more of drop by using the GPIO pins for the power in !

I just built one today. The popular 2.5A power adapter is this one, which is probably on your list

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MARDJZ4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then I bought this case, which acts as a giant heat sink and was shown to cool the CPU more then the little heatsinks

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QB6F9I0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I followed the instructions that others posted and I've been trying it out all night, with a few hiccups for certain systems (Neo Geo, Family Computer Disk System), but Google searches fixed those issues.

I'm using my Xbox One controller, which has been working great and has extra buttons for different things (like save states, which I don't think can be done an an SNES controller)

OP Dont get that PSU if you value your system, get this instead.

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Link: This one


|Country|Link|
|:-----------|:------------|
|Spain|amazon.es|
|Canada|amazon.ca|
|Italy|amazon.it|




This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting).

You'd be better off getting a known quality 500w 80+ or bronze rated unit by EVGA instead.

http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-80PLUS-Certified-ATX12V-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1411072685&sr=1-1&keywords=evga+500

http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-80PLUS-Bronze-Certified-100-B1-0500-KR/dp/B00DGHKK7M/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1411072685&sr=1-2&keywords=evga+500

both come with good reviews from jonnyguru

I have the same parts as you. I went with this: https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487988244&sr=8-1&keywords=evga+500w

With that power supply, you're really limiting yourself.
You need to get a cheap, reliable 500W PSU. Something like the EVGA W1 is your friend in this realm.

You're CPU is a real limiting factor. Ideally, you want an i5, which you can buy an i5-3550 or an i5-3570, but those will take up the rest of your budget. If you were buying a new CPU, I would recommend getting a new motherboard as well (full system upgrade to Skylake). That's too much as it's a new CPU, mobo and new DDR4 RAM.

Stick with the CPU for now and upgrade the GPU.

Head over to /r/hardwareswap and find a used 280, 280X, 290, 290X. Here's a 290X for $240, but it might be out of your price range, since you need to buy the $40 PSU first. You can find 280X for $120-$140. A 290 is around $175-$200 and a 290X is between $200-$240 on that subreddit.

With that in mind, I would recommend making a post on /r/hardwareswap looking for a 500W PSU for $25 shipped and a 290 for $170 shipped. You should find a PSU for that price, but might be hard pressed on the 290 and might need to settle for a 280X for around $140 shipped.

Last, but not least, if you get an SSD (say a 128GB), you install your Windows on it and maybe some of your games. You should notice a big speed boost from reduced loading times.

What the person said above and below. I would not recommend using just any brands for PSU. It's pretty much the foundation of your whole PSU. You don't want your whole system to go haywire because of your PSU.

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-CX500-Supply-Bronze-Certified/dp/B0092ML0MY

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Power-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=pd_lpo_147_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8B9TGAJJPZAK7TDGF3EJ

I had the 500 PSU EVGA. I recently upgraded 3 months ago. It's wonderful!

Get a decent PSU, at least 500w. Look at the specifications to make sure it has a single 12-volt rail, then make sure it has at least 40A on that rail.

This one is pretty cheap and can do up to 40A on the 12v rail, even though it doesn't say it on amazon.

You can get a "500w" power supply for as cheap as $20 (e.g. Logisys and cheap Thermaltake) but I honestly don't trust those. This is about as cheap as I'd be willing to go.

Sometimes the Corsair CX500 goes on sale for $20, which is awesome at that price. Unfortunately, it's $65 at the moment. I'd trust it more than the EVGA, but I don't think it really justifies the price difference.

lol @ XBone. Sounds like the name of a villain in a 90s action movie.

Here's the deal. You can go the console route, and that's fine. But you're going to spend a lot more money in the long run.

You buy a PS4, an xbox one, a switch, whatever. Call it $400. OK. Cool. You buy games for it. $40, $30, $50. Sweet. Controllers. $50 $50 $50... Shit it's getting expensive. New games come out. Why the fuck are they $60 a piece? Holy shit. You wait a while. Jesus they only went down to $55? FFFFFFUUUUUU I wanna playyyyyyy.... Why aren't there more games and cheaper games? Granted, you do have the nice option to buy classic games on PSN and for Switch. Ugh.....fine, I'll shell out for Overwatch. Fine. I'll shell out for Destiny 2. Fuuuuck that was like $120. What....what the fuck is this? PS5? Nintendo Switch2?

ARE YOU FUCKING KIDDING ME?

BUT. Let me play out that scenario for you on a PC.

You get:

https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Desktop-Processor-Stealth-YD1200BBAEBOX/dp/B0741DN383/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1504013256&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=ryzen+3&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Motherboard-B350M-GAMING-PRO/dp/B06X3Y7KB5/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B06X3Y7KB5&pd_rd_r=WQY4T7FSD0XZNMJMAZTA&pd_rd_w=9hbxY&pd_rd_wg=5G67w&psc=1&refRID=WQY4T7FSD0XZNMJMAZTA

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-2400MHz-Memory-Black/dp/B01ARHBBPS/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504015184&sr=1-3-fkmr2&keywords=corsair+vengeance+ddr4+8gb+1+stick

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=pd_sim_147_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00H33SFJU&pd_rd_r=34J30Q25N27HSGZ37PBB&pd_rd_w=zW44M&pd_rd_wg=1NEwM&psc=1&refRID=34J30Q25N27HSGZ37PBB

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Deskptop-1Terabyte-5400-7200RPM-Applications/dp/B06XR3LT6W/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504013651&sr=1-5&keywords=wd+blue+hard+drive

https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-MicroATX-Tower-Computer-RANGER-M/dp/B006BCK7RM/ref=sr_1_20?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1504013530&sr=1-20&keywords=computer+case

https://www.amazon.com/%D0%9Cicrosoft-Windows-Home-Disc-Package/dp/B0756F3VPT/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504013612&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=windows+10+home+oem&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/ZOTAC-DisplayPort-Dual-Link-Graphics-ZT-P10500A-10L/dp/B01M4MIU94/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504014904&sr=8-1&keywords=gt+1050

Total cost: $570 US, or roughly what you'd spend on your console and a few controllers.

BUT, now you have the entire library of all the computer games ever made at your disposal. Not to mention that, but you've got emulators to play all those classics that you could have bought on the PSN/Switch.

And instead of paying $60 every time a new game comes out, you look at what came out about 6 months ago. You put it on your steam wishlist. You get an email someday soon that says "an item on your wishlist is on sale."

Oh holy shit. Doom is $16. Holy fuck, it's the steam summer sale. Games are 75% off, 80% off....they're basically giving them away.

Then you sign up for Humble Bundle.

Holy shit. You can get Alien Isolation for $5.

These are 5 star games we're talking here. Not to mention you get like 10 no names to go with it. Hell, you're probably going to spend hours playing some of those.

Pretty soon you've got 100+ games that you may have spent a few hundred dollars on. Things are great, but you decide hey, I would LIKE to have a little more FPS on these. So you order yourself a new GT 1080, and sell your 1050 on ebay making back about $50. Later on down the line you decide to upgrade the processory, maybe add a stick of ram later. Now you got a stew goin. But you don't have to, that rig will play almost anything (though possibly on lower visual settings)

PC is just more budget friendly in my opinion. You never have to just throw the whole thing away and get a new one. You can always replace components and upgrade things individually. There's never new platforms to learn, get used to. You can always use your same old controller, and you can always play your old games. In my view, buying consoles is basically throwing away money because you have to buy so much hardware EVERY TIME they decide to release a new console.

There's give and take to it. I just like the stability and deep discounts I get from Steam, GOG, and Humble Bundle. I wouldn't even game if it wasn't this cheap.

Here you go

In the top right corner of your linked page, PCPartPicker gives a rough estimation of 363W. For under £50 I'd get this.

Anyone who wants my build!

I finally got the parts, I think, idk noob with comps I am



Anywhere's here is a link to all the parts :P




http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-PC3-12800-1600mHz-CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B/dp/B004QBUL1C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1418573722&sr=8-2&keywords=8+gigs+ram


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IDG3PRI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0088PUEPK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

http://www.amazon.com/Intel-Core-i5-4690K-Processor-BX80646I54690K/dp/B00KPRWB9G/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1418857923&sr=1-1&keywords=i5+processor

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ESETQNG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H33SFJU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003YVJJ5Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER




Lel enjoy nerds

Yeah, this one is close to twice the price, but you need a good power supply for your build.

Those older CX PSUs are garbage and that's pretty bad price. This is a way better option if you need to buy from Amazon

https://www.amazon.de/Seasonic-S12II-520-Stromversorgung-520-ATX22/dp/B00390P1NO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465249245&sr=8-2&keywords=seasonic+netzteil

this one got 9.7 score ,i would get this one, same price , much better that yours

Seasonic S12-II 520W 80+ Bronze Certified Wired Power Supply https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00390P1NO/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_fZhoxb0G8NK2B

It's this one here. It would be another £18 for the modular one.

Technically yeah, but i'd recommend a model with a larger wattage, as the next time you upgrade 300W may not be enough or you need more PCIe 6+2 connectors etc, 10$ saves you an upgrade.

https://www.amazon.com/Seasonic-S12II-520-BRONZE-SS-520GB/dp/B00390P1NO

You can consider the Silverstone SG13. You'll gain about 10~cm in height, but lose 10~cm in length and width compared to the 202, so it'd fit in a backpack better I think.

https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Computer-Front-Panel-SG13B/dp/B00U8IS89E

add in the 520w seasonic or something equivalent (need to be 150mm long or below though)

https://www.amazon.com/Seasonic-S12II-520-BRONZE-SS-520GB/dp/B00390P1NO

Jesus christ that PSU

Yes for the love of god upgrade and throw it to the sharks

Upgrade -

http://www.amazon.co.uk/XFX-ATX-550-Power-Supply/dp/B004RJ8EKI

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Seasonic-S12-II-Bronze-Certified-Supply/dp/B00390P1NO

-

if your CPU is Intel even this would be fine

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Seasonic-430ST-430W-Bronze-Certified/dp/B00P7TLQF2

(this is multi rail though so the XFX version below would be a better pick out of the two 430Ws imo)

http://www.amazon.co.uk/XFX-TS-Wired-Power-Supply/dp/B00O3JHESA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450650917&sr=8-1&keywords=xfx+psu

This Seasonic 520W should be more than adequate.

Tier 3. You could get something much better for the same price but with 30W less. This one is in the second tier. You can still SLI if you want to in a few years (but on Linux, don't count on it before Vulkan and its explicit multiadapter tech becomes a thing).

Thank you. I've just spent £68 on this Seasonic PSU which should arrive on Tuesday. Your list has it in tier 2 but another has it in tier 3. I trust it'll be ok for my system though?

Why'd you choose socket 2011? You can get the same gaming performance out of socket 1150 for a LOT cheaper. I'm not sure what is available to be shipped to norway, but I'm fairly certain you can get socket 1150 parts shipped out to you.

For instance, this processor matched with this motherboard will give you excellent basis for a solid gaming rig.

Furthermore, you can up the graphics with the money saved to a GTX 670 or a GTX 760 and get the graphics power to play any game on high (for the most part).

also, that powersuply brand isn't exactly amazing. I'd go for something by seasonic, like this or something by thermaltake like this

For a gaming rig, unless you're planning on running virtual machines off of it or use programs that utilize a LOT of memory space (photoshop, autocad, 3dmax), 8GB of ram is plenty. You don't need 16gb. Nothing can utilize that much running games and basic OS functions.

For the most part, unless you're a SERIOUS audiophile, there is no need for a dedicated sound card, considering the board I linked to, and most other z87/h87 boards come with onboard sound cards that can handle up to 7.1 surround on their own.

If 1150 socket components aren't available to you in Norway, then you can look for 1155 components, IE an i5-3570k with a nice z77 based motherboard.

Let me know if you have those options available to you out there. A lot of money can be saved by switching to a less-robust cpu/motherboard platform.

edit After a bit of trial and error, I've discovered it's rather difficult to get things shipped to Norway. is there a norway-based amazon website you can use? or what?

Can I install these ram on the original motherboard? These are 3200 ones.

Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB DDR4 DRAM 3200MHz C16 Memory Kit, Red https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01ARHF6Z4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NrrkDbJWSVARB

And will this power supply fit?

EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G3, 80 Plus Gold 750W, Fully Modular, Eco Mode with New HDB Fan, 10 Year Warranty, Includes Power ON Self Tester, Compact 150mm Size, Power Supply 220-G3-0750-X1 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B005BE058W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RzrkDbSED63CW

Thanks in advance!
Sorry, not very familiar with high end desktop.

Looks pretty good to me but I think a few small changes could get a little better value.

I'd suggest getting the 3000 or 3200MHz versions of your RAM instead of 2666. It's literally two dollars more on Amazon. for 3000.

You could possibly save a bit of money with a different motherboard, but if you like that particular one it should work great. I don't have any specific recommendations because I don't know if there's anything specific you needed that that board has.

Personally I don't like having have two different drives for OS and any programs, so I'd just go with a single 1TB 970 Evo for $228 and a HDD with no 2.5" SSD. Or to save a bit go with a HP EX920 for 38 bucks less. With either choice, enough super fast NVMe storage to fit the OS and every single program you'd realistically ever install is worth the loss of 250GB space total when you are also getting a massive storage HDD with several TB.



You could definitely save on the PSU unless you plan on getting a second 1080ti in SLI. A high end 8700k/single 1080ti system running CPU, GPU, and storage stress tests simultaneously would still be unlikely to ever hit 500W, and in real world usage would rarely pull over 400W. You could definitely save on the PSU while still having plenty of headroom. I definitely wouldn't go lower than 500 or 550, but there are plenty of top-tier brands of 650 and 750W Gold or Plat rated PSUs for much less than $140. EVGA's Supernova G2 and G3 are around 90 bucks for top quality with a 10-year warranty and gold efficiency.
Even the normal black colored 850W Corsair RMx is thirty bucks cheaper thatn the $140 white one you picked, which would pay for the other upgrades, and you usually don't even see the PSU or its wiring any more as most cases have a PSU shroud including the SPEC-OMEGA RGB you chose.

I'm not a fan of that case's plastic Transformers look, but if you like it, other than aesthetics it seems like it has every feature you'd want in a case. IMO NZXT's H500i looks a lot cleaner while still having built in controllable RGB and a glass side panel and is also 20 bucks cheaper without having to fill out a rebate form. If you do that though, I'd suggest getting one of NZXT's AIO CPU coolers instead of Corsair's to work with their LED sync software. Usually makes sense to try and keep sync-able RGB stuff the same brand for compatibility.

Everything you already have selected should work great together but some tweaks would get you a better deal for what you're paying.

which model? I have this one in my build with this case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005BE058W

fits just fine.

Sometimes your motherboard can get stuck in a weird state. Turn off the power at the power supply if it has a switch, if it doesn't, unplug the computer. Press the power button on the PC a few times with the power off/disconnected, then plug it back in/turn it back on and press the power button again.

If it still doesn't work, you might have a bad board or PSU. PSU testers are cheap and will help you narrow it down before you start replacing things.

There is a little tool you can order off amazon to check PSU power, but i forget the name. Lemme see if i can dig up a link

:edit: here ya go! Something like this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CTCD6S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2ZgHDbA853DHF

It's a very simple device that has a plugin for the PSU cables and checks the voltages.

Here is an example,

https://www.amazon.com/Insten-24-pin-Power-Supply-Tester/dp/B005CTCD6S

Something like https://www.amazon.com/Insten-24-pin-Power-Supply-Tester/dp/B005CTCD6S but his had a little LCD screen, and the model didn't have good reviews. Closer to https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T-jG3vqRQHM but still not what he showed me a picture of.

tried to do a 980ti system but it ended up costing 1550 without the speakers.(+33)

If you want a 980ti in there you will have to drop the cpu to i5 or the ssd(i guess you need the 16 gigs)

https://www.amazon.fr/Intel-1150-INTEL-E3-1231V3-SR1R5/dp/B00K64I0S4/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1462980991&sr=1-2&keywords=xeon

https://www.amazon.fr/ASRock-B85M-Carte-Intel-Socket/dp/B00MI8D2D4/ref=sr_1_31?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1462981228&sr=1-31

https://www.amazon.fr/HyperX-HX316C10FR-M%C3%A9moire-1600MHz-Rouge/dp/B00J8E90NW/ref=sr_1_6?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1462981338&sr=1-6 x2

https://www.amazon.fr/Seagate-ST1000DM003-Barracuda-Disque-interne/dp/B005T3GRNW/ref=lp_430345031_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1462981103&sr=1-1

https://www.amazon.fr/Disque-SanDisk-vitesse-lecture-SDSSDHII-240G-G25/dp/B00M8ABEIM/ref=sr_1_16?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1462981299&sr=1-16

https://www.amazon.fr/GIGABYTE-nVIDIA-GTX970-DDR5-Overclock/dp/B00NZT6D68/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1462984185&sr=1-1

https://www.amazon.fr/Seasonic-S12II-520W-Alimentation-520-BRONZE/dp/B00390P1NO/ref=sr_1_45?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1462984132&sr=1-45

https://www.amazon.fr/ARCTIC-F12-Ventilateur-performance-boitier/dp/B002KTVFTE/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1462982595&sr=1-1

https://www.amazon.fr/Thermaltake-Versa-Bo%C3%AEtier-tour-avec-ventilateur/dp/B00P9OES28/ref=sr_1_104?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1462982417&sr=1-104

https://www.amazon.fr/Acer-GN246HLBbid-Predator-FullHD-1920/dp/B00IG0Z0HY/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1462983738&sr=1-1&keywords=Acer+GN246HL

https://www.amazon.fr/Logitech-Speaker-System-Haut-parleurs-Subwoofer/dp/B003LNXT7Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462984316&sr=8-1&keywords=logitech+z313

final cost 1261,73 with all costs included

Looks like the one on Newegg is an older model as it has the radial fan grill. I recently bought this PSU from Amazon and the looks are significantly different.

So there's a few things with this.

Firstly, you're not going to be able to get a great gaming PC for $400. You'll be able to play stuff with it but don't come into this expecting super max graphics ;)

As far as your PC parts go, so long as you feel your HDD is OK, that's the only thing to keep for a new build. That being said, if you're currently using it as the main OS drive for your current PC, consider doing a clean OS install onto the drive when you build the new one, assuming you have any important things backed up etc. first.

CPU: Intel G4560 ($70)

GPU: RX 460 ($90)

Motherboard: ASRock B250M Pro4 ($74)

RAM: 8GB DDR4 ($55)

PSU: [Seasonic S12II 520W](https://www.amazon.com/Seasonic-S12II-520-BRONZE-SS-520GB /dp/B00390P1NO/) ($45)

Case: HAF 912 ($60)

Total Cost: $394

Just using mostly Amazon and Newegg for you. Keep an eye on pricing, I've quoted full prices yet these parts do have rebates on from time to time, which could save you more money :)

So my main choices for the parts was based like this. Firstly, you're not going to get a better CPU without spending another $50 onto the i3 7100. Because of the choice in CPU, the RX 460 is the best performance for the price. You could spend more onto a more powerful GPU but you're not going to see the benefit with that CPU. Motherboard is a modern board for the current Intel chipset, so you should be comfortably able to get upgrades for this for a good number of years to come. As part of that, I've given you a single 8GB stick of DDR4, leaving you plenty of free slots on the board to upgrade your RAM in the future. DO NOT USE YOUR OLD RAM. The PSU is powerful enough to be able to handle bigger CPU and GPU's if you want to do bigger upgrades to those in the future and the HAF 912 case gives you plenty of flexibility for size and design internally to cover that too.

All told, that's about as good as you're going to be able to do for $400.

First suggested upgrades would be to spend around $50 on a SSD to use as an OS boot drive to make the system a little bit more snappy. Next upgrade would be for a more powerful CPU some point down the line, followed by GPU.

If you don't mind not having a modular PSU:

Seasonic S12II-520 Bronze €60.72

If you must have a modular PSU:

Seasonic 620W M12II-620 Evo €82.67

If you get the first PSU, you can get the R9 270X for €157 and still have some spare change.

https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B00390P1NO/?tag=pcp09-21

Or wait for the one in your list to come back in stock

Salut!

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | €214.90 @ Amazon France
Motherboard | ASRock H110M-DGS Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | €62.89 @ Amazon France
Memory | Crucial 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory | €53.30 @ Amazon France
Storage | Crucial MX300 275GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | €79.99 @ Amazon France
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | €45.90 @ Amazon France
Video Card | Sapphire Radeon RX 480 8GB NITRO+ OC Video Card |-
Case | Corsair 100R ATX Mid Tower Case | €59.80 @ Amazon France
Power Supply | EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | €63.90 @ Amazon France
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | €580.68
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-12-16 21:22 CET+0100 |

first off:

crossfire is not ideal. you need certain drivers, many games may not be optimized for it. So i would advise against it. VR and Future, the next point. VR is at its beginning, buying a gpu right now for future vr games does not make any sense.

May i ask why you want to play for example doom with 1440p and 40fps instead of high frame rates at 1080p? A 1080p can still you use vsr from amd, to simulate a higher resolution.

ssd added

cheaper mainboard

cheaper ram

cheaper case

the psu i picked is solid, a g-series from seasonic or a g2/g2 from evga would be better.

https://www.amazon.fr/Seasonic-S12II-520W-Alimentation-520-BRONZE/dp/B00390P1NO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481919955&sr=8-1&keywords=seasonic+520

get this psu instead for example.

https://www.amazon.com/Seasonic-S12II-520-BRONZE-SS-520GB/dp/B00390P1NO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482917857&sr=8-1&keywords=seasonic+520w
You can't go wrong with Seasonic, but you'll have to wait a bit for it to arive.

https://www.amazon.com/Seasonic-S12II-520-BRONZE-SS-520GB/dp/B00390P1NO/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1479789109&sr=8-3-fkmr0&keywords=s2+seasonic


You can get good PSUs for $50. Just because your budget is a certain level doesn't mean PSU price has to scale. Not everyone is crossfiring R9 Furies and running FX 9590s.

https://www.amazon.fr/Seasonic-S12II-520W-Alimentation-520-BRONZE/dp/B00390P1NO/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1478952149&sr=1-1&keywords=520w

I get that you want something more painless right now and that's cool. Ryzen is still a new platform and there's still some growing pains with it, I wouldn't put it against you if you wanted to stick with Intel just because you know it's working 100% right out of the box.

At this budget, keep it at 8GB and leave room to add more in the future.

I tweaked your build a bit:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-7500 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | £178.14 @ Aria PC
Motherboard | MSI B250M PRO-VDH Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | £68.01 @ CCL Computers
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | £63.18 @ Aria PC
Storage | Sandisk SSD PLUS 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | £73.00 @ Amazon UK
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | £41.98 @ Amazon UK
Video Card | Asus Radeon RX 480 8GB Dual OC Video Card | £204.92 @ Amazon UK
Case | Corsair Carbide Series 88R MicroATX Mid Tower Case | £50.32 @ Amazon UK
Power Supply | SeaSonic S12II 520W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | £55.60
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | £735.15
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-04-28 16:44 BST+0100 |

I linked the PSU here, for some reason it's not showing up in PCPartPicker right now.

single fan GPUs are cheaper to produce (saved cash on 2nd fan and use of shorter heatsink) and okay buy if you dont want to overclock at all. Dual or tripple cooled versions can be overclocked and resulting performance increase is bigger than the price increase from such cooling.
I thin you should still keep the cpu and motherboard, you may even delay adding extra ram for now. 8GB is still fine, especially if you dont use some beasty i7. Storage can be always managed, but getting 1TB 7200RPM hard drive would be over all good step up in every direction. 500GB hdd is likely very old and slow.
In UK, RX470 makes much more sense, as for 30 pounds extra you get a lot stronger and dual cooler GPU.
I highly recommend you get new Power supply. In UK any decent unit seems overpriced, but you would be able to re-use them in future computers. Your current one is ticking timebomb. I suggest this one.
for Monitors, you should focus on 1080p. 24 inch may be the sweet spot for gaming in your situation. Prices and quality differ widly. I would only recommend if I knew exact budget for this.

I got u OP, I looked it up and I recommend replacing it. It doesn't have enough PCI-e connectors, it's rated at 460W MAX not continuous, it has a split 12v rail, and it doesn't have an efficiency rating.

I recommend this power supply, if it fits in your budget. If not, I recommend you look at the PSU tier list and find a good used PSU either on /r/hardwareswap or locally.

Unfortunately, yes, it might be a bit more in price, here is one to check out. It's up to you, but I find that the general consensus on this sub is to try not to skimp on the quality of the PSU.

Looks good to me. Your power supply is ok. If you want a better one, it looks like this Seasonic S12II 620w is a few bucks more at Amazon Italy.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Seasonic-S12-II-Bronze-Certified-Supply-x/dp/B003BIEOCI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487931418&sr=8-1&keywords=seasonic+bronze

pay a bit extra and get something better, the psu is the most important part in your system

Too low quality. I suggest this one. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Seasonic-S12-II-Bronze-Certified-Supply-x/dp/B003BIEOCI/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1491317143&sr=1-1&keywords=seasonic+620w

This one is pretty solid too if you want modular https://www.amazon.co.uk/Antec-Current-Modular-HCG-620M-Bronze/dp/B0079Y0EYM/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1491317143&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=seasonic+620w

It should be easy to add a PSU. Basically just plugging things in.

thank you for your response! After reading your post, and watching the video you linked I realized that I am gonna need to be patient, and just have tons of zip ties ready for this case but I know it's gonna be worth it if I can get everything where I want it. With the PSU i am having the most trouble picking one and now after your post/video I am even more worried about it! Is this one any good for the case? PSU![PSU!]

heads up, this power supply has 100W more, and is cheaper on amazon https://www.amazon.ca/Seasonic-Bronze-80Plus-Power-Supply/dp/B003BIEOCI. same model.

though at ncix you do get a $10 MIR, i prefer not to deal with those if possible. I also trust amazon a hell of a lot more than ncix.

i haven't heard good things about ASRock recently, so i'd opt for a MSI B350 instead. it also has the "benefit" of being ATX, leaving you with a bit more space and leaving things a bit less cramped.

funny, i'm planning a new build and outside of the case and outside of the case (already own one) and a 6GB 1060 over a 4GB RX 580, our builds are almost exactly the same.

an ssd makes a huge difference, consider paying the premium on that and if you have to, cutting down on case costs (unless you care for aesthetics)

ok so for your budget I picked 2 units.

Seasonic S12II at £63
fluid dynamic bearing fan, all japanese caps,5 year warranty,40C operating temp

and

EVGA SuperNOVA 650 G2 £85

OEM is Super Flower,7 year warranty,ball bearing fan, 650W, fully modular,japanese caps rated at 105C,unit rated at 50C operating temps

So basically for that extra £15 you get 2 more years warranty,higher operating temp, a few more watts,fully modular,etc,

http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story6&reid=429

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003BIEOCI/?tag=pcp0f-21

That PSU looks like a bit of a no-no to me. Not a brand name and it's Micro-ITX. this would be a much better choice. Also, I would advise going with a HDD for storage and then a small (128/240GB) SSD for Windows and critical programs.

My power supply is Seasonic 620w

here

Yes, thanks. The price is still a problem though: Seasonic M12II 620W for $60. Even if you ignore quality, it's fully modular and 620W vs Corsair's semi modular 550W.

750w is a lot more than this rig will need. I'd take that unit back and get something like this Seasonic instead, saving yourself $20 to put towards something else. You can save another $20 or so with a comparable Acer monitor, another $25 or so with a 500GB hard drive, skip the SSD which is deeply impacting your gaming-oriented costs elsewhere, and spend a few more bucks on the 2500K instead.

Part list permalink / Part price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor | $179.99 @ Microcenter
CPU Cooler | Corsair CAFA50 61.0 CFM CPU Cooler | $12.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard | $137.86 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $44.99 @ Newegg
Hard Drive | Western Digital Caviar Blue 500GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $82.99 @ SuperBiiz
Video Card | Diamond Radeon HD 6950 2GB Video Card | $259.99 @ NCIX US
Case | Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case | $47.99 @ Microcenter
Power Supply | SeaSonic 620W ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply | $79.99 @ Amazon
Optical Drive | Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer | $17.99 @ Newegg
Monitor | Acer G235HAbd 23.0" Monitor | $139.86 @ CompUSA
| | Total
| Prices include shipping and discounts when available. | $1004.64
| Generated 2012-03-16 15:39 EDT-0400 |

This build can beat up the first build for its lunch money.

I understand you want the absolute highest value FPS per dollar build but putting about 90% load on a psu that's as low quilty as EVGA 450B is a pretty bad idea. You're getting a 1080TI I'm pretty sure buying a 40-60$ PSU won't hurt your wallet that much.
Modular PSU-Newegg-Seasonic M12ii 620W/ Amazon-Seasonic M12ii 620W-60$
Non-Modular Seasonic S12ii 520w -45$

Also another issue here is your motherboard. Your motherboard might or might not come with bios updated that lets you use kaby lake cpus with it. If it does then you're good if it doesn't then you'll need to update the bios with a skylake cpu. I recommend Ryzen 5 1600 over the 7700. You can oc it to 3.9Ghz with the stock cooler and it'll be cheaper.

Amazon has a $30 rebate.

https://www.amazon.com/Seasonic-M12II-620-BRONZE-SS-620GM2/dp/B003HE260I

Here. Currently out of stock but they will ship when available.

Hey man,

I would suggest:

Seasonic 620w Modular
or EVGA B2 if you want more juice for some reason.

Both of them have enough power for your GPU

Edit: you could usepcpartpicker to look for prices. Example: EVGA 750b2 at 40$

Like a few people have pointed out, don't go with the 6600K if you're not overclocking, instead go for a 6600 (non K edition) or a 6500.

Alternatively, you can go for a z170 motherboard which would increase your motherboard price by about 3k. Cheapest z170 mobo I could find was this

Now, your choice of monitor is kinda odd since its a 60Hz TN display. TN displays usually have poor color accuracy but the tradeoff is a faster response time. Try looking for an IPS display if you've decided that you're gonna be fine at 60Hz. This is a neat example also note that this monitor supports freesync in which case you have to go for an AMD card instead (RX 480) to utilize freesync (the monitor will work just fine with an Nvidia card just without freesync)

Now, unless you're doing some crazy overclocking with a lot of peripherals, you don't need a 750W PSU. You can instead invest in a better PSU like the Seasonic M12 620W (Amazon | MD Computers) if you're overclocking or go with the 520W edition if you're not overclocking.

Also, I noticed that your case doesn't have a transparent side panel, personal preference I suppose but a nice side panel can make your setup look really nice (especially since you're dropping almost 1 lakh into it)

Finally, you don't need to buy all your parts on Amazon, you can find good deals on primeabgb or mdcomputers without any import tax.

Your video card requires a minimum of 500W.

The SeaSonic M12II 620W comes highly recommended. It has 620W, which gives you a little bit of extra breathing room, and is widely regarded for its high reliability and low noise level, as well as for its lengthy 5-year warranty.

You can buy it here:

http://www.amazon.com/Seasonic-80Plus-M12II-620-BRONZE/dp/B003HE260I

Edit: For that setup you are spending unnecessary money on the PSU. Even if you added another video card 700W would leave you more than enough headroom.

Amazon has this PSU for considerably less, has more than enough power, and a 5 yr warranty.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005BE058W/ref=twister_B01LXKQ07C?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

​

great psu and you will not use it i have a i8 8700k and a 2080 and i still dont use most of it your good.

Why not get the 750w G3 for $59.99 from Amazon?

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Supernova-Modular-Warranty-220-G3-0750-X1/dp/B005BE058W

Rayzen 5
"Amazon.com: AMD Ryzen 5 2600 Processor with Wraith Stealth Cooler - YD2600BBAFBOX: Computers & Accessories" https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Stealth-Cooler/dp/B07B41WS48/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541748155&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ryzen+5&psc=1

The new geForce 1060
"Amazon.com: ASUS GeForce GTX 1060 6GB Dual-Fan OC Edition VR Ready Dual HDMI DP 1.4 Gaming Graphics Card (DUAL-GTX1060-O6G): Computers & Accessories" https://www.amazon.com/GeForce-Dual-Fan-Gaming-Graphics-DUAL-GTX1060-O6G/dp/B01JHQT1SE/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541748298&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=1060+6gb&dpPl=1&dpID=51T1GaSIVLL&ref=plSrch

Motherboard
"Amazon.com: ASUS ROG STRIX B350-F GAMING AMD Ryzen AM4 DDR4 HDMI DisplayPort M.2 USB 3.1 ATX B350 Motherboard: Computers & Accessories" https://www.amazon.com/ROG-B350-F-GAMING-DisplayPort-Motherboard/dp/B071SGQP1Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1541748454&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=am4+motherboard&dpPl=1&dpID=51tl1-gPBdL&ref=plSrch

8gb x2 ddr4 ram
"Patriot Memory Viper Elite Series DDR4 8GB 2400MHz (PC4-19200) Single Module (Black/Grey) - PVE48G240C6GY at Amazon.com" https://www.amazon.com/Patriot-Memory-2400MHz-PC4-19200-Single/dp/B074Q1G6VR/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1541748631&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ddr4+ram&dpPl=1&dpID=41pVPcbOWIL&ref=plSrch

Power
"Amazon.com: EVGA Supernova 750 G3, 80 Plus Gold 750W, Fully Modular, Eco Mode HDB Fan, 10 Year Warranty, Includes Power ON Self Tester, Compact 150mm Size, Power Supply 220-G3-0750-X1: Computers & Accessories" https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Supernova-Modular-Warranty-220-G3-0750-X1/dp/B005BE058W/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1541748778&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=power+supply&dpPl=1&dpID=51UcIW5x4QL&ref=plSrch


And pc case that you like :)

Ok, I really don't want you to burn your house down. Take a look of the EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G3 80 Plus Gold 750w PSU here. It's only $119 now. You need two of these at the minimum to power 6 1070s in a single rig.

For that particular psu, Here is an image of the modular slots. See those 4 VGA slots, you want to use those slots.

In this image here you get two 8 Pin vga to single 8 (6+2) pin pcie cable. You also get two 8 pin to dual 8 (6+2) pin pcie cables. That's a total of 4 vga cables coming out of your PSU. Those 4 vga cables have 6 total pcie connectors. You will use all 6 of these connectors for 3 1070 gpus. Therefore, two of these PSU will power 6 1070s.

There is no cheap or safe way for your two 650w to do the same thing. Your 650w psu only have two vga slots. Yes, you can rig your perif power slots to do one or two molex to pcie but unless you already have the cable from EVGA to do this, buying more EVGA cables to do this is not only not ideal, it's more expensive and not for a newbie. I don't know how you are setting up your test rig but I recommend that you shut that rig down asap. It might boot up and it might even run for days or weeks but it's a huge fire hazard waiting to happen.

Hi, I have a question, I currently have a 500W PSU with an OC I5 6600K and GTX 1070, an SSD and a HDD. It's doing fine but it's a bit tight. I want to add another HDD, a DVD drive and a bit more RAM (2x4 to 4x4).

Should I go for this deal ? Or the one on reddit ?

Yes

EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G3, 80 Plus Gold 750W
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005BE058W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_J108AbZBC09M7

It's only 80 bucks, it's modular so you can cut down on excess cords, and a 650/750 watt supply should be plenty for you right now and should hold you over for a while.

To finish my build, I'm looking at:

ADATA XPG SX8200 480GB M.2 2280 PCIe Gen3x4 NVMe (129.99)
https://m.canadacomputers.com/product.php?id=123218

EVGA SuperNOVA 750W G3, 80 Plus Gold Fully Modular (97.00 = 117.00-20 MIR)
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B005BE058W/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8

These prices seem pretty good. I'm thinking at best it'll be $20 off the current price on BF/Cyber Monday. Do you guys think it's worth waiting? I want to save every penny.m

I swapped the PSU with an EVGA Supernova 750 G3, 80 Plus Gold 750W, Fully Modular from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005BE058W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you have any questions about the process let me know.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IEKG402/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521012120&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=2tb&dpPl=1&dpID=5152Tk32IxL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07598VZR8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1521012014&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=i7+8700k&dpPl=1&dpID=51cmJqb4I2L&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075RHWCC4/ref=pd_aw_fbt_147_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Y8HXXRND52YXQAJCPVDA

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0134EW7G8/ref=pd_aw_fbt_147_img_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Y8HXXRND52YXQAJCPVDA

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005BE058W/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521012102&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=evga+supernova+750&dpPl=1&dpID=51UcIW5x4QL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IR6LMLO/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1521012187&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=1080&dpPl=1&dpID=51bpp6rWCmL&ref=plSrch


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B073SBX6TY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521012150&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ssd+m.2&dpPl=1&dpID=41GJN9qS2CL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XX8Q1CL/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521012171&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=nzxt+kraken+x62

The parts are
8700k
Mobo z370
2x8gb ddr4
Kraken x62 to keep the cpu cool
Thx 1080(had to drop the ti due to prices)
M.2 ssd for boot drive
2tb hdd for storage
Evga supernova 750w
If you have extra change invest in noctua high static pressures fan to optimize cooling

So, for $973 here is the list of components you can actually buy:

cooler, which is optional

motherboard

Cpu

Ram

Gpu

hard drive

case

PSU

I did what I could to save where I could and allocate elsewhere. You won't need to upgrade too soon from this moving forward. If you'd rather go cheaper I can help with that as well.

Theres plenty of these things. Here's a cheap one.

I know you probably want a fast solution, but if you do not have a power supply you can substitute you will need something like this: http://www.amazon.com/eForCity-24-pin-Power-Supply-Tester/dp/B005CTCD6S/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

I do not have personal experience with that one, but I do own this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002R06PGE/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Even if you don't need a tester right now, I advise having one on hand, especially if you have multiple PCs to maintain. In my case, I have lotsa family and friends I help, and a PSU tester has come in handy over the years.

Follow the power is the best method of troubleshooting.

First check if the power supply works. You can do this by either getting a power supply tester or shorting out pins 14 and 15. If the power supply doesn't start, it's dead.

If after replacing the power supply, your computer still doesn't start, take out your motherboard and start looking for black stains on or near the surface and through-hole mounted components. Start at the power connectors on the motherboard (CPU and ATX) and work your way from there. You will need good lighting and good eyesight (or magnifying glass).

Any black stains means an exploded component and should be replaced.

The same will hold true for any other peripherals, especially video cards which take power directly from the power supply.

Good luck!

or a psu tester

https://www.amazon.com/Insten-24-pin-Power-Supply-Tester/dp/B005CTCD6S

I found out when my pc started turning itself off. I had to unplug a few things power wise then pc turn itself on. By then, its considered "too late" and should of replaced it sooner, just didn't have the money.

SO you don't really want to wait that long if its starting to do the above but if it isn't, you can buy a power supply tester which if any lights aren't green on it, means PSU is dying. I would recommend this if you aren't super tech smart to mess with volts and/or don't want to waste money on a psu and find out its something else.

To be fair, most people don't know how to turn on a PSU without it being connected to the motherboard and case.

To OP, you need either a PSU tester (they're cheap) or you can ghetto-test it with a paperclip or anything else thin, bendable and conductive

Buy something like this https://www.amazon.ca/Insten-24-pin-Power-Supply-Tester/dp/B005CTCD6S

One I have used. Easy and cheap. Worked Everytime. It may save you time in case it might not be the PSU. It will rule it out at least.

https://www.amazon.com/Insten-24-pin-Power-Supply-Tester/dp/B005CTCD6S/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1549703504&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=psu+tester&dpPl=1&dpID=51oGO0bfPqL&ref=plSrch

Could be a faulty PSU or the connection of PSU to motherboard. Could also be dirty power coming through the wall. Either get a PSU tester (example: https://www.amazon.com/Insten-24-pin-Power-Supply-Tester/dp/B005CTCD6S ). Make sure you arn't getting power brownouts/sags from the power provided through your home. Are you plugged into a line conditioner or UPS?

First thing I would try is taking out one of the RAM sticks, see if it works. If it doesn't, swap the one that's in there with the one you took out (basically only leave 1 RAM stick in) and see if THAT works.

If it doesn't, you may wanna try a new power supply, or buy a power supply tester.

Also, if your motherboard has a built-in display, take out the Radeon card and plug the monitor directly in to the onboard display and see what happens.

If ALL of that fails, it's probably the motherboard.

Have you tried testing GPU in another computer? If you can I'd recommend that to see if it really did fry the GPU. If it did, definitely bad psu. Swap that bad boy out. Also swap the Cable as it could have been fried as well.

If GPU is working fine in another computer, then it's going to be a bigger headache. Probably need to replace Mobo. Though this is unlikely the culprit. I'd almost bet money on bad PSU.

If you can, get a PSU tester. They're like $10-$20 and are very good for this kind of thing. Allows you to make sure it's PSU before hooking up a replacement part and frying it too.

Edit: Here's a cheap PSU tester. $11. Might be worth it to get it and test PSU first. Unless Corsair is willing to swap it out anyway. If they aren't, get that and test it. If you tell them you tested it with a PSU tester and it tests bad, they will not balk any about swapping it out.

Insten 20/24-pin Power Supply Tester for ATX/SATA / HDD, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CTCD6S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-maJBbJ4V5239

Throw in a GTX 1070, that should be all you need.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KVZBNY0

Maybe consider an EVGA G2 550 for your PSU, you will get better longevity and overclocking. $80 well spent when you consider it will last 10+ years.

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Supernova-220-G2-0550-Y1-Modular-Supply/dp/B0106RDI3W

1)Also, is the iGPU capable of playing any type of game? like lowest setting, etc..

2)This and this are the two psus im looking at. They are probably way better being a gold rating and modular. Im thinking about the GS one since its suppose to be pretty quiet. Which one do you think is better?

3)Sure thing :P

Nvidia recommends at least a 400 watt PSU for GTX 1060, it's generally a good idea to go a bit above that. I'd recommend a 500-600 watt PSU.

A good option for example is the 550W EVGA SuperNova. It's powerful enough, reliable, efficient and EVGa has excellent customer service and warranty in case of any issues. Another good option is the 500W PSU that /u/Daedus already recommended.

Then I would replace the psu but you could keep it and try running a 1060 off it.

Something like this evga series or this seasonic series will do the job nicely.

it's cheap for a 750W atm (plus I had the link open). You can also get this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0106RDI3W/ref=twister_B01LXKQ07C?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

But it's also not much cheaper.

Ditch the 1080p monitor, go 1440p and get this PSU instead.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0106RDI3W/ref=twister_B00NAQB7S0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

EVGA supernova 550w Gold

CPU - This is a perfectly fine CPU for gaming and there isn't any reason to change it.

Motherboard - This is a solid board, and it's a plus that it's a Gigabyte board. Make sure to keep in mind that this board doesn't support SLI, so if you ever plan on getting a second GPU you should go a different route.

Memory - You should seriously just get the cheapest RAM you can find since you can't utilize XMP. RAM is the only computer components that is actually created equal, other than manufacturers with high failure rates.

SSD - Don't get that SSD. It's faster than any HDD out there, but at the same time slow for an SSD. I know it's tempting to cheap out on a few parts like the SSD, but it's certainly worth it to spend a bit more. I'd recommend this SSD.

HDD - Do you really need 2TB of storage? I don't hear many bad things about Hitachi, but I still think you'd be better off with a Western Digital HDD. If you really do need/want the 2TB hard drive, it looks like it's quite a nice deal for that price and I wish you luck with it.

GPU - You're gaming at 1080p60 and expecting "high settings". This card is overkill. Do yourself a favor and get an RX 480 or a GTX 1060. On the other hand, if you don't plan to upgrade for 4-5 years, the GTX 1070 is perfectly fine. As far as aftermarket cards go: For AMD, I'd recommend PowerColor/XFX and for NVIDIA I'd recommend EVGA.

Case - Solid case, but I think you could stand to spend a bit more for a Fractal Design Define R5 if you decide to buy a less expensive GPU. I'd recommend it anyways, but the less you spend the better, I assume.

PSU - At this point, I recommend no PSU other than this one. The PSU is a very important PC part that you shouldn't cheap out on, and this PSU in particular is one of the best.

IMO it's always better to be safe than sorry when it comes to PSUs. Go for Gold (literally) instead of bronze. And generally better to go above what your system will need, should you decide to upgrade down the line.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0106RDI3W/ Check out the gold version of EVGAs PSUs. Little more expensive, but worth it considering the price of everything inside.

Yes, it would be, but I'd go for this one instead, if you can pull the cash together:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0106RDI3W/?tag=pcpapi-20

It's fully modular, so therefore good for managing all those cables... Plus it's EVGA, so it'll provably survive a nuclear apocalypse.

While in the price bracket you may be looking to pinch an extra buck or two, I'm going to put a few other suggestions that I've had good luck with that are the same price just so people have options. You aren't wrong at all, most people buying a 750 dollar PC are not going to be overclocking or pushing their system at all and are going to be just fine with a CX series. Never hurts to have some quality options at the same time though.

Option 1

Option 2

Option 3 Not enough information yet, will update when more info is released.

edit: Just saw your edit, If you pick up a CX for less than 40, go for it. That's not a terrible deal.

Hey, good job with your parts list. I think you could make these purchases and be happy with your build, however, here are some points for consideration:

• Consider the Samsung 850 EVO 500GB instead of the ADATA SSD you currently have selected. It's marginally more expensive, but the 850 EVO is known for its great performance. At its current sale price ($215) its a steal.
  
  
• SeaSonic isn't a bad brand, but there are more reliable options, such as the EVGA SuperNOVA 550 G2, which is well known for its reliability (This one is also fully-modular! Another steal at the price ($99)). Also, the Corsair one you swapped for the SeaSonic is no longer available at the price listed on PCPartPicker (although it was a good price at $90!)
  
• Finally, there is the ASRock X370 Killer SLI/ac ($199 after rebate) motherboard which has on-board Wi-Fi, in addition to using the X370 chipset (which, theoretically, should give better overclocking. It also provides the option for SLI/dual 1080's in the future).
  
  All in all, these suggestions only marginally increase the final price of your build ($1864+tax, -$30 rebate). Also, you may want to consider another case if you think you'll be adding additional hard drives in the future. The one you selected only has 2 internal hard drive bays, which may be enough depending on your plans.

Now I don't know what your setup is, but unless you are running a dual GPU setup, I don't think you will need more than 500W

Honestly, I would just get the SuperNova G2 550W, should be better than those two

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-220-G2-0550-Y1/dp/B0106RDI3W/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1480084447&sr=1-1&keywords=EVGA+G2+550W

That beeing said, both are good, can't go wrong either way

It's not really a good PSU for the price.

Seasonic Focus Gold 550W | 650W

EVGA G2 550W | 650W

Corsair TXM 550W | 650W

EVGA SuperNOVA 650 G2, 80+ GOLD 650W, Fully Modular, EVGA ECO Mode, 7 Year Warranty, Includes FREE Power On Self Tester, Power Supply 220-G2-0650-Y1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0106RDIN2/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_FOMBybNKG0N24

That's what I got

S340 Elite Matte Black is my case. I wanted to do H440 because it matches my green look, (my favorite colour) but it was sold out. Might have been discontinued.

I am using a MSI Z170A board with 8gb Ram (will get more, didn't feel like spending so much yet)

[Gigabyte 1080 Windforce] (https://www.gigabyte.com/Graphics-Card/GV-N1080WF3OC-8GD#kf)

250 GB SSD

650 W PSU

i5 7500

Using my old evo 212 cooler until I get that cooler you have for your build.

Your blueprint blows my computer out of the water but mine does the job.

and two 1 TB drive I had from my old build (I don't normally store so much stuff. I uninstall games I stop playing)

I would really advise against getting that overpriced motherboard. Save yourself $150, get the Z170-A or similarly priced mobo, and put that towards a GTX 1070, which is much more suitable for 1440p than the 480. I'd also get this PSU:

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Supply-220-G2-0650-Y1/dp/B0106RDIN2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468211327&sr=8-1&keywords=evga+650W+g2

It is more efficient, higher wattage, fully modular, and cheaper than your current pick (plus, dat 10 year EVGA warranty doe). That list is fine if you want, I'm just offering more efficient suggestions. I doubt you need all those features with the Deluxe

You have an unlocked processor (meant for overclocking) and an H170 motherboard (cannot overclock). If you want to overclock, you need a Z170 board. If you don't want to, then you should get the i5-6600 (or 6500) - no "k" on the end.

For a couple bucks more, the EVGA G2 is a better power supply

You are handcuffing your framerates a little bit with that monitor since it is only 60hz, and it's a little expensive as far as 60hz IPS panels are concerned. You can get cheaper 60hz IPS panels, or you can spend more cash on a high refresh rate monitor instead

I assume you are buying all your parts on Amazon for some reason, however, I would highly recommend looking at jet.com for the video card. They are running a promotion right now, for 15% (up to $30) off your first 3 orders, with code "triple15" - you can save a good deal on a 1060 there instead of paying close to $300 on Amazon.

Thanks! Going with the EVGA Supernova G2

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-220-G2-0650-Y1/dp/B0106RDIN2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474315941&sr=8-1&keywords=evga+supernova+g2

EVGA Supernova [G2] (https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-220-G2-0650-Y1/dp/B0106RDIN2) or [G3] (https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-220-G3-0650-Y1/dp/B01LYGFRL6)

Seasonic [X Series] (https://www.amazon.com/SeaSonic-650W-Power-Supply-SS-650KM3/dp/B002VA7RPS)

Does this include cables? The Jet site is skimp on information but the Amazon page shows them as included.

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-220-G2-0650-Y1/dp/B0106RDIN2 can never go wrong with this one

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Supernova-Modular-Warranty-220-G3-0750-X1/dp/B0106RDIN2/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=EVGA%2Bsupernova&qid=1556152662&s=electronics&sr=1-2&th=1

I'd say go for this one instead. The Supernova G series PSUs are EVGA's high quality offerings.

for your builds:

• your motherboard already has built in wifi you don't need the adapter.
  
  
• that PSU is way overkill and overpriced get a g2 650.
  
  
• sound cards are dumb and not needed unless you do some sort of professional sound mixing. Motherboards these days already have great sound capabilities.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0106RDIN2/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1466486731&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=evga+650w&dpPl=1&dpID=51TvpBWze3L&ref=plSrch


Deal of the day.

Deal of the day.

Good sir,
I come as the wallet fairy.
You best be buying this evga g2 650 watt for 69.99:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0106RDIN2/ref=br_prlt_slcty_pdt-3?ie=UTF8&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=41TPHFJBRWNK12H5BRR0&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=3147b25c-c2c4-4e77-9e4b-4ebb8a3db666&pf_rd_i=13459453011

Im buying everything from amazon just because of the one day delivery convince, I added this Power supply
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0106RDIN2/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB

This motherboard
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B06WVFFXXL/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB

Downgraded to 1060
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01JHQT1SE/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB

Idk what to choose for the memory and same thing for the fan idk if 140mm or 120mm makes a big difference. I cant send a wishlist link because it shortened and it wont let me post on the sub

this is just the ssd and the cpu
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07B41WS48/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01K8A2A0E/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_7?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2UXO5LPTDY3LN

Your CPU and GPU combo are great for 1440p gaming. I have a 2600 and Vega 64, and I consistently hit over 100 fps on 1440p games like Destiny 2 and Apex Legends with proper overclocks/undervolts.

From what I understand, the 2060 Super is a bit stronger than the 64 so you should be good.

I also have the same monitor and love it, so good choice there.

In regards to storage, it depends on your budget. I have this one as my boot drive, and works great: WD 500GB m.2

Obviously you can choose larger storage if your budget allows.

Power supply: EVGA 650W Power Supply

I have this one and it works reliably. According to your parts, a 650W should be safe enough, but again, your budget really determines how you go with this.

This looks like a solid build, but I would consider the EVGA 650W GQ (80+ Gold, ECO) a better choice. You can get it on Amazon for $69.99.

It might save you a few bucks over it's lifetime. If you're using 400w while gaming 20%, or about 80W, is being wasted to heat. Like leaving an extra 75W light bulb on when you're gaming. A gold PS at 400w is close to 90% efficient so you're wasting 40w instead of 80w. It will save a few bucks but it's not the end of the world. After Gold rating they get expensive fast for diminishing returns. 80+ Platinum is 92% at middle load and 80+ Titanium is 94% at middle load. Cheapest Platinum I found was $100 for a Rosewill(no thanks), and cheapest Titanium is over $200.

Edit, oops the other one I linked was bronze. This one is gold but $70 though it would probably pay for itself in a year.

Your link to the current build doesn't work.. Just post it here including what GPU you plan on upgrading to. That PSU is good, but you won't need 750w unless you're doing SLI/xfire.

Check out the EVGA GQ 650w. It is better than the G1 you posted and cheaper. If you wait to scope out a deal you can get it even cheaper(just got mine for $55 after rebate).

Brand new 650w semi-modular great quality PSU

There's a deal right now for a really good PSU:
Link: https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Modular-Warranty-Supply-210-GQ-0650-V1/dp/B017HA3SQ8
It's a gold efficiency semi-modular PSU (it also has nice black cables instead of the horrifying red, orange, black cable mess that is cheap power supplies.

you can get a EVGA g2 or GQ for the same as the corsair VS and its a much much much better psu.

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Modular-Warranty-Supply-210-GQ-0650-V1/dp/B017HA3SQ8/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480327439&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=ewvga+gq

Damn thats a good deal. Unfortunately a little low on the wattage :( Anyone know of any good PSU deals at a higher wattage? i.e. 600W and up?

Edit: Ended up buying this guy for a pretty good price.

Current shopping cart:
Graphics - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IPVSLTC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A1D9VA4FDB43MN&psc=1

Motherboard - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0131GA4WI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&psc=1

Processro - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MRRPPQS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_9?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

SSSD - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F9G414U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

RAM - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DPSQPF2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Case - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DPSQPF2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Power - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017HA3SQ8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?smid=A2I4D0WO1JEMBA&psc=1

Harddrive - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013QFRS2S/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

I would say spend $10 more and get the evga 650w gq 80+ gold from amazon

edit: nvm they upped the price to $120
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B017HA3SQ8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1. Yes, but actually no. The ROG X470-F doesn't support USB BIos Flashback, which would allow you to update your BIOS to the current Ryzen 3000 series BIOS. You can also upgrade the BIOS through a retailer such as Frys or the Microcenter and they will update it at little cost. This list here will show you the motherboards compatible with USB Bios Flashback if that isn't an option. X570 boards are also an option but start at $169.99.
   
   https://www.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/bvfo57/list_of_b350_b450_x370_and_x470_motherboards_with/
   
   
2. Yes. When benchmarked against a 100$ AIO 360mm cooler, it yields 4.125GHz vs 4.2Ghz. A totally overlooked part of AMDs value proposition.
   
   
3. Yes, its a very well built PSU, but there are alternatives for cheaper: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYGFRL6/?tag=pcpapi-20 Own this unit myself, and is silent, and steady 12V rails for OC.
   
   
4. Look at youtube tutorials. Even though it may sound dumb, those really help if you get stuck on something, but manuals are 10000% useful.
   
   
5. Yes, and the boards I recommended (Get a higher quality B450 board if you want to stick with it for a long time) will be able to upgrade through the next generation Ryzen as Ryzen's next-gen CPU's will be compatible on your mobo.
   
   
6. No, it's a very balanced build in fact.
   
   
7. Yes, but the Focus G is Arcylic and doesn't have the best build quality compared to other cases for a bit more.
   
   Here are two I enjoy recommending: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/qZjJ7P/corsair-carbide-spec-06-atx-mid-tower-case-cc-9011145-ww
   
   https://pcpartpicker.com/product/zHndnQ/phanteks-eclipse-p350x-blackwhite-atx-mid-tower-case-ph-ec350ptg_dbw
   
   
8. Nothing I didn't mention above :)
   
   Hope you have a wonderful night!

Does something like this work for you?
EVGA SuperNOVA 650 G3

Try getting 650W or more, like this PSU

This Seasonic 650w Gold

This Seasonic 620w Bronze

This EVGA 650 G3 Gold

Any of those would be great choices. There’s a 650w Platinum Seasonic if you wanna get real crazy for $100 after rebate. But you probably don’t need a platinum psu.

If you want even cheaper I can recommend some but you’ll lose full modular in exchange for semi or non-modular.

Is this the psu you would recommend, Snorkle25?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYGFRL6/?tag=pchound-20

Cool thanks. Gonna swap to this guy: Super Nova G3 650W for $89.99

Amazon link? Having trouble finding it for some reason...

Edit: Nvm, here it is: https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Supernova-220-G3-0650-Y1-Modular-Supply/dp/B01LYGFRL6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487459512&sr=8-1&keywords=EVGA+-+650W+G3

Replace PSU with something like this. $15 more for a gold rated, higher quality, fully modular unit.

Hey, not really sure why nobody else chimed in about this but I'm hoping I'm not too late on this suggestion. If you're getting a 2600 and looking to overclock at all (which is highly recommended), you'll want a motherboard with LLC available in the bios. That ASRock motherboard does not, to my knowledge.

This motherboard does, and has better VRMs. The trade-off would be that MSI doesn't have voltage offset available in their bios, but that's only relevant for Ryzen x series chips. So, for example, if you were buying a 2600x, I'd be more inclined to recommend your currently selected ASRock mobo over the one I linked.

This is without getting into any of the other feature differences between the boards, as the bios options / overclocking potential is a pretty notable divide between the two for your cpu.

Edit: Oh also, there have been some really good PSU deals over the last few days where I wouldn't recommend paying ~$80 for a 550w G2. While 550w is plenty for your build and more isn't necessary by any means, I'd recommend this as you'll be saving ~$20.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01LYGFRL6/?tag=pcp0f-20&th=1

Worth buying this Evga supernova 650w G3 80 plus gold at this price or wait for cheaper?

Best I can recommend is the EVGA 650 SuperNOVA G3 here. However, it is $100 right now which is a bit expensive for it. I only like fully modular power supplys and love the eco switch on the G3, however, if you want a lower cost go for the superNOVA NEX here. Good luck!

edit: Please note the NEX does not have a eco switch, which keeps the fan not running in low power idle situations. The G3 has it. I recommend 650 for future upgrades.

edit 2: That moment I notice you're Aussie

I reaally didn't expect this to blow up while I was asleep. I appreciate everyone with the same sentiments. Alright. I've read your comments. I'm going to address all the common stuff.

If anyone cares about my pc specs and the game settings I used I'll list them at the bottom of this comment <3

​

1. "WTF just get better wifi?? You don't have fiber dude? what are you ? Poor?"
   
   I actually lol'd at these. I have the best wifi where I live at 70mbps download. It's pretty damn expensive, but I use my computer a lot. Homework, games, youtube, etc., so ultimately it's super worth it. I have spectrum and I live on the west coast. This means that the game is constantly at 80 ping. No, I don't use an ethernet cord. Mainly because I haven't found the time to route it through my house, and honestly I'm not really focused on that right now. My wifi works perfectly fine with everything else. But I mean yeah I guess you guys are right, I should just move to a different state./s
   
   ​
   
   
2. "Uhh, your pc has nothing to do with your wifi smh idiot lol"
   
   That's the joke homie.
   
   What I'm referring to is the fact that after working $8/hr at a fast-food restaurant as a high school student and building a $1000+ computer solely for this game, shit like this still happens. Why does it happen? Because of bluehole's shitty servers and net-code. Something that is completely out of my control.
   
   ​
   
   
3. "people still play this game?? ? Go play something else"
   
   I enjoy this game. It's brought many good memories, and it keeps on bringin' 'em. I'm aware of all the downfalls it has. Trust me I'm more than 120% aware. Just because it's not your style, or it's hard, or the randomness gets to you, it doesn't mean it can't be fun for other people. I've got tired of this fucking game too. Many times lol. It's still enjoyable to me however, so I'll still play it.
   
   My specs & game settings:
   
   I used this gaming laptop up until roughly 800 hours.
   
   CPU: Intel i7-8700 - Link (out of stock as of October/6/19)
   
   RAM: Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2x8) DDR4 3000 - Link
   
   GPU: MSI Geforce 1660ti - Link
   
   Motherboard: MSI Z-370 Pro - Link
   
   Monitor: MSI Optix MAG 24" 144hz 1ms - Link
   
   Power Supply: EVGA Supernova 650w 80+ Gold - Link
   
   Storage: ADATA 2TB SSD Link
   
   Fan and cooler are pretty easy to find.
   
   - Graphic settings

that power supply looks a little sketchy. I'd spend another $15 and get something bronze certified or better: https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-BRONZE-Supply-Warranty-100-B1-0500-KR/dp/B00DZ6R9GE/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1493320309&sr=1-2&keywords=evga&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A6906984011

Most Corsair or EVGA brand PSUs of sufficient wattage will suffice. If you're brand brand new to PCs and don't know what to get, get the [EVGA 500B1] (https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-BRONZE-Supply-Warranty-100-B1-0500-KR/dp/B00DZ6R9GE). It'll provide more than enough headroom for a mid or low end computer. If you're going for dual graphics cards or other extras, just buy a model with slightly higher wattage.

The rating (bronze, gold, titanium etc) refers to the power and overall efficiency of the PSU. Don't pay too much attention to it unless you really want to.

This PSU is fine but this might suit it a bit better. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DZ6R9GE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gefIzbSZPV6R8

And I would look into getting 4x2 Ram sticks rather then 1 stick, as there's 4 ram slots, and dual channel ram usually runs better.

You may have made a booboo not buying the right graphics card for your PSU. Might need to upgrade your PSU. Got a few bucks?

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-BRONZE-Supply-Warranty-100-B1-0500-KR/dp/B00DZ6R9GE any of that line will work for your system, you goofed not checking your psu had what was needed first though :)

If price isn't a big issue on also getting a PSU, you can go a bit higher and look at other PSU's, but the 1060 doesn't take much power, so even the 450B version of that EVGA power supply should be fine.

50 pounds won't buy you a PSU good enough for a high-end gaming rig. Although... I guess this one should do the job.

There's also EVGA 500B if you desperately need something now and 50 is literally max of what you can give.

That's a beautiful build ;) Also, the motherboard is a micro atx so try and find a micro atx case and power supply. I know that evga has some power supplies that are micro atx. I think your atx case will support the micro atx, but generally atx cases are more expensive and it'll be a lot of space in your computer. It's more of a personal preference, but it could save you some money and make your computer more compact. I suggest this case and this power supply

found a Bronze+ PSU, EVGA 500 B1, 80+ BRONZE 500W Power Supply, 3 Year Warranty, Includes FREE Power On Self Tester 100-B1-0500-KR found here

will this PSU be able to supply a 480 8gb and an i3 6100? I will probably upgrade the 6100 to a 6500 , its for my little brother. I also have a 750w Bronze something EVGA psu if need be, I just dont wanna go through all that hassle

Tengo algo más o menos así, presupuesto de 10k como dijiste y corro LOL a gráficos decentes/casi altos, witcher 3 a gráficos medio/bajo.
Intel core i-5
Fuente de poder de 600W
2 RAM DDR3 Corsair de 8GB
Tarjeta madre súper básica pero suficiente
Tarjeta video 2GB GDDR5

Will this EVGA 600B 80PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V/EPS12V Active PFC 600W Power Supply 100-B1-0600-KR fit in this [Raidmax Raptor No Power Supply ATX Mid Tower Case (Black) ATX-823BR] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008X199N2/?tag=pcpapi-20)

I'm really new to pc building, so bare with me.

[This is my soon to be rig] (http://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcforme/comments/220ism/cheap_below_1000/) the ones I'm chaging are the Memory and Tower because they're not available in amazon (international shipping) so if you guys can recommend for memory and tower, that would be great, but if the tower I linked is, hopefully, good enough. Then recommend a good memory.

IMHO I believe PC Part Picker is NOT the place you want to buy from. Yes, they have a user friendly interface, but that's it. Their parts are overpriced and you pay for shipping. Check these links for the exact same products through Amazon, and for most of the parts you get free shipping.

Case
Power Supply
HDD
RAM
CPU
Motherboard

Looks like a solid build. I had a ton of problems with the b350 version of that MB, but I assume they have the issues ironed out by now.

Edit: Maybe look at this psu

1. I dont think its worth it. You can squeeze higher clock speeds and maybe help stuff run a little faster. But IMO its not worth the price increase and time you will spend tinkering. Its just a hobby to some.
   
   
2. Aftermarket cooler isnt necessary. The benefits are that they are MUCH quieter and keep the processor MUCH cooler. The stock cooler is loud and only cools it to the minimum needed.
   
   Do you have to buy at Amazon?
   
   

• RX 480 8gb (not 3gb) will be a better and cheaper card.
  
• The case is like half the price on newegg.
  
• Much cheaper Power Supply that will perform the same https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-BRONZE-Warranty-Tester-100-B1-0600-KR/dp/B00EON40CS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487886799&sr=8-1&keywords=evga+600b

http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-80PLUS-Bronze-Certified-100-B1-0600-KR/dp/B00EON40CS/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1421433272&sr=1-1&keywords=600W

cheaper, reliable brand and 50 more watts =)

Cpu- https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Cooler-YD1700BBAEBOX/dp/B06WP5YCX6/ref=sr_1_18?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1521700065&sr=1-18&keywords=cpu


Gpu
https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-Windforce-Graphics-GV-N1060WF2OC-3GD/dp/B01KQUDE2Y/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1521699625&sr=1-5&keywords=GeForce+GTX+1060

Harddrive
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Cache-Desktop-Drive-WD10EZEX/dp/B0088PUEPK

Motherboared
https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Motherboard-B350M-GAMING-PRO/dp/B06X3Y7KB5/ref=pd_sim_147_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B06X3Y7KB5&pd_rd_r=NK0YGV4JWT87JP1TX5AV&pd_rd_w=VArLs&pd_rd_wg=5DoKl&psc=1&refRID=NK0YGV4JWT87JP1TX5AV

Ram
https://www.amazon.com/Ballistix-Single-PC4-21300-288-Pin-Memory/dp/B01N5P755B/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1521700408&sr=1-4&keywords=ddr4+ram

Power supply
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-BRONZE-Warranty-Tester-100-B1-0600-KR/dp/B00EON40CS/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1521700503&sr=1-5&keywords=power+supply

Fans
https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Sleeve-Computer-Cooling-ROCF-13001/dp/B00KB8CB9O/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1521700563&sr=1-4&keywords=fan+pc

This is what I came up with.
took me 40 minutes

I tried my best, its a bit over 10,000

Case 1085

PSU 840

Storage 1000

Video Card 3900

Motherboard 1029

RAM 630

CPU 2300

Don't limit your build to 430 watts, I have an Antec VP450 and honestly wish I could've gotten more power. While it's not important now, later on when you want a more power hungry card you'll have to upgrade it.

I'd recommend something like the EVGA 600B for now, only $45 on Amazon

Edit: Also what a hell of a deal. Those 6 core phenoms regularly go for $100 anymore, so that guy hooked you up with a proper deal!

Solid. Some reports of the ARC line from Rosewill being unable to produce their rated power and are well under it. Not to mention being much hotter and louder than other brands in the same price bracket.

EVGA 600B 50-ish USD

You can try out the Rosewill and see how it works from you. I have not confirmed glaring issues regarding ripple or catching fire. So it will do the job but with something like a 390 you could run into some power related problems if the PSU can't keep up.

Change the power supply. $2 more, but way higher quality:

http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00EON40CS/

>
Why would you order PC parts from Amazon? The Korean price is pretty much the same for almost all of the parts, if you include the cost of shipping.

That might usually be the case but look at this sexy deal

http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-BRONZE-Continuous-Warranty-100-B1-0600-KR/dp/B00EON40CS

But since you seem to be familiar with buying PC parts in Korea.. I'm going for roughly the "Fair" tier. Clicking on the X4 860K brings me to this website.. Is it normal to other PC parts from sites like these? Also, since non-Korean cases are ridic expensive, should I just buy a popular Korean one?

I wouldn't trust that PSU if it smells like burning. You can probably get away with day-to-day use, but putting some stress (gaming, video editing) on it may actually kill it for good.

As for a new PSU, nvidia recommends a 600w, so that, [EVGA has a pretty good one] (https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-BRONZE-Warranty-Tester-100-B1-0600-KR/dp/B00EON40CS).

http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-80PLUS-Bronze-Certified-100-B1-0600-KR/dp/B00EON40CS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425761742&sr=8-1&keywords=evga+600W

http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GDDR5-4GB-2xDVI-Graphics-GV-R929OC-4GD/dp/B00HS84DFU/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1425761763&sr=1-3&keywords=r9+290

http://www.amazon.com/AMD-FD8320FRHKBOX-FX-8320-8-Core-Black/dp/B009O7YU56/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1425761798&sr=1-1&keywords=FX+8320

[Right now the EVGA 600 B1 is $39.99 on Amazon] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EON40CS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1451242419&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=evga+600b&dpPl=1&dpID=51Zd5PuGxSL&ref=plSrch)

Not modular tho but I've found that if your case has a place to tuck the extra cables, like an unused drive bay, it's not as bad as this sub hypes it up to be.

Get any computer power supply. This is the first one that came up on amazon and it will do up to 34 amps on the 12V rail: https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SDR4

Edit: Amazon also has some for ~$20.

The website says it has a 300w PSU. Technically speaking there should be no problem since the 750 ti has a very low power intake.
To be on the safe side I would suggest getting this PSU
http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-80PLUS-Certified-ATX12V-100-W1-0430-KR/dp/B00H33SDR4/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1411319791&sr=1-3&keywords=psu

I'd recommend a PSU from a more reputable brand:

http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-80PLUS-Certified-ATX12V-100-W1-0430-KR/dp/B00H33SDR4

Hey it's me again. I have a HP p7-1120 and need a new power supply cus I got a new video card. I want this one but how do I know if it'll fit?

The PSU is probably not very good, and I don't really understand AMDs naming scheme, but the CPU looks okay, the GPU is perfectly fine, the case looks pretty cool, and AFAICT it should be fine for cooling, if it ever seems to be under performing, or less than six months after you get it, I suggest putting in a better PSU, at least rated for 400 watts, any name brand should be fine, because I'm not in europe I can't really tell you which one would be both cheap and good, but in america this one is pretty much the best PSU on a budget.

I'm sorry Automod, pcpartpicker's referral links are the bane of my existence.

I would get a cheaper gpu and cheaper psu and not bother with that sketchy amazon vendor for ram. using pcpp, these look solid

EVGA 430w

80+ efficiency, reputable brand, and decent cables.
Can be had for 5-10$ cheaper though, I'd say its still worth it.

Hey, sorry about the late reply. I had an early night (received your message at 11pm here in the UK).

Thanks for the picture. That seems to be a generic PSU. It may run fine for now but who knows how long it will last, and what it might take along with it, if it does end up dying. It would be ideal that you upgrade to a decent PSU with an 80 plus rating. Such as this.

The 750 ti would do you just fine. You can check out some benchmarks, here. You should be getting around an average of 45fps in Far Cry 4 at 1080p and a solid 60fps in Skyrim (set to ultra, with anti aliasing turned down). However, it will struggle when trying to run ACU, as it's a terribly optimized game which even 980s in SLI have trouble running at a stable 60fps.

If you have the money to spend, I'd recommend you upgrade your PSU to something like this and going for the gtx 970.

Feel free to give me shout if you have any questions. =]

Sure! It's this one. I went for the lowest wattage I could find as this system has very low requirements and also looked for something with a 120mm fan so it would be as quiet as possible.

I really don't understand what the first three words of the tiltle are however here is a parts list.

CPU: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Intel-4690K-Processor-LGA1150-Socket/dp/B00KPRWB9G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1483406302&sr=8-2&keywords=i5+4690

Motherboard: https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Motherboards/MSI-Z97-PC-Mate-Intel-LGA1150-DDR3/B00K8KPXUO/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=C6WMM67CFYZGXRDJ3CV6&th=1

PSU: https://www.amazon.co.uk/EVGA-100-W1-0500-K3-500W-Power-Supply/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=sr_1_3?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1483406385&sr=1-3&keywords=500W+PSU

RAM: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Crucial-Ballistix-2400MT-288-Pin-Memory/dp/B00MTSWFMM/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1483406441&sr=1-2&keywords=16+GB+ram

GPU: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gigabyte-Nvidia-1060-GDDR5-PCI-E/dp/B01K7I7M00/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1483406507&sr=1-1&keywords=GTX+1060

Case: https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Computer-Cases/Bitfenix-Nova-Midi-Tower-Case-Window-BFX-NOV-100-KKWSK-RP/B016CMS1IW/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1483406553&sr=1-1&keywords=Case

Hard Drive:https://www.amazon.co.uk/Blue-Desktop-Hard-Disk-Drive/dp/B0088PUEPK/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1483406591&sr=1-2&keywords=Hard+Drive

OS: https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/kmd/Windows-10-Home-32-bit-64-bit-English-International/B0111YEBY4/ref=pd_vtph_65_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=JK3P3BCFE2WM107F2TVX

That should be everything you need to game comfortably with your budget. I did not include a monitor as I will assume that you already have one, if not here is a link.

Monitor:https://www.amazon.co.uk/ASUS-VS248HR-inch-Gaming-Monitor/dp/B014RKZ81O/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1483406751&sr=1-1&keywords=Monitor

When something like this happens I usually turn to a trusty power supply tester to help clear the fog. They look like this and they're very cheap.

https://www.amazon.com/Insten-24-pin-Power-Supply-Tester/dp/B005CTCD6S

Do you have the make/model for that pc? or at least a link to the specs of it?

I'm banking on your PSU is dying/dead. You may be in the "dying" phase right now where your 550w is barely pushing enough amps and when it drops low enough, your PC shuts down.

I would also just double check all your PSU connectors, unplug, blow, then replug in and make sure they all snap in

edit here is an example of a PSU tester: link

Sometimes they can be useful to diagnose a PSU, however, if your PSU is having problems providing amps, if may report that everything is okay. Unfortunately there isn't a good way to "put a load" on the PSU besides simply running your PC.

There are relatively inexpensive PSU testers available, so that might be a start. Either that, or perhaps a local computer shop has the appropriate testing equipment on hand.

If your shop doesn't already have one, one of these (or one like it) will save you so much hassle. I do craigslist computer work, and didn't know that these things existed. I got one recently and it is so wonderful.

I guess for 8 bucks, this. Lots of choices on amazon actually, just search power supply tester.

Still though even for that cheap at that rated wattage, I would just like to put it out there I wouldn't trust a used PSU from a stranger even if I have an implement to test it.

A cheap multimeter should be available at your local hardware or auto parts store.

For example:

http://m.lowes.com/pd/Morris-Products-Digital-Multimeter-Meter/4738850

There are also purpose built power supply testers.

http://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B005CTCD6S/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1457390512&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=atx+power+supply+tester&dpPl=1&dpID=51F4joHuY5L&ref=plSrch

I would use a digital multimeter.

There's also a PSU tester. I've never used one but I've seen it recommended here a few times.

Is this a decent power supply? [Link.] (https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-CX600-Supply-Bronze-Certified/dp/B0092ML0OC) I know it's not modular, but that doesn't matter much to me.

EDIT: I'd like it to be from Amazon, so I can take advantage of fast shipping.

Corsair CX600, if that's too expensive you can downgrade to the Corsair CX500 relatively safely.

For that I would say something along the lines of a CX600. (600w)


http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Builder-Watt-EPS%C2%A0-CX600/dp/B0092ML0OC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1396165426&sr=1-1&keywords=cx600

PSU: Corsair CX600 - 600W Power Supply

Case: Zalman ATX Mid Tower PC Case Z3 Plus-W

Mobo: ASUS Z170-A ATX DDR4

Storage: Right now I only have SSD 480 GB but I have a 4 TB hardrive on the way

Ya that PSU is a little high end for a miner you picked up for $40. I'd stay in the Corsair family but go with the CX500 or CX600. Maybe a CX750 if you want to add another. They cost between $50-$80 and seem to always be on sale.

They're 80+ Bronze which is nice, but I'm really hoping your not paying for electricity if you plan on running a cube!

First one out of my head https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-CX600-Supply-Bronze-Certified/dp/B0092ML0OC

You might find more interesting options as well.

Your video card is going to be underpowered vs your CPU, and something like this is going to be better for you if you don't want to break the bank. Some other things, are you wanting wi-fi, an optical drive, and do you already have a mouse? And unless you're Crossfiring Video Cards, you don't need a 750 Watt PSU. Here's a good 600W one. But if you really want a 750W, this is a good one.

That's pretty distasteful (the death threats, not your question), hell I've been building PCs for 16 years and I'm not positive you can't build a laptop. Certainly not in the traditional sense of buying individual components, but I bet you could piece together some sort of frankenlaptop from existing parts. Or build a PC into a briefcase emulate a laptops portability. Which I know works cause I know someone who did it back in the 90s.

I get that you don't want to go back to /r/buildapc but you really don't need to spend $2400.

16GB of RAM isn't strictly needed for games, very few will take advantage of that much. I can think of 1, Planetary Annihilation.

Anyway this is off the top of my head w/ out any research into cutting costs whatsoever. Spending some time on google you could prob shave off a few hundred.

4690K - $233

16GB RAM - $147

GTX 970 - $350

SSD - $127

PSU - $60

Motherboard - $140

HDD - $78

KB+M - $15

Windows - $92

Unless you are buying a $1200 dollar computer case, there's your good PC at half your expected cost.

I didn't include a monitor cause I'm going to assume that since your presently gaming on your 360 you have a TV and you can just plug your PC into that w/ a HDMI cable. Hell you can use same one you were using on your xbox after you throw it out since this PC will crush it. :-P

If you want a full system for under $800 that will last you 10 years, good luck. But I did my best picking out these parts:

Core i5 4430: http://www.amazon.com/Intel-i5-4430-Quad-Core-Desktop-Processor/dp/B00CO8T9VC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1422398980&sr=8-2&keywords=core+i5

Motherboard: http://www.amazon.com/MSI-Motherboard-Motherboards-B85-G41-MATE/dp/B00D12OASW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1422399026&sr=8-3&keywords=lga+1150+motherboard

RAM: http://www.amazon.com/Kingston-HyperX-FURY-2x4GB-1600MHz/dp/B00J8E8ZLK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1422399065&sr=8-3&keywords=8GB+ram

GTX 970: http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-Gaming-GDDR5-Graphics/dp/B00NH5T1MS/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1422399112&sr=1-2&keywords=GTX+970

Pick your own ATX Case: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Delectronics&field-keywords=atx%20case&sprefix=atx+ca%2Celectronics

Power Supply: http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Builder-Watt-EPS%C2%A0-CX600/dp/B0092ML0OC/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1422399192&sr=1-2&keywords=corsair+power+supply

Hard Drive: http://www.amazon.com/WD-Green-Desktop-Hard-Drive/dp/B008YAHW6I/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1422399223&sr=1-1&keywords=2tb+hard+drive&pebp=1422399227833&peasin=B008YAHW6I

This system should last you a while

Ah, there is your problem. I did a quick search on that model after cringing, I recognize the Apevia brand (Turbolink). These are extremely cheap PSU's that should not be in a system with a GTX 970, or even an older GTX 680 for that matter. This PSU distributes power accross 2 12v rails at 14amps each...this is not enough for your system at all. Once that GPU gets under any load, it will crash.

One of the things that first time builders often neglect is the need for a solid power supply. After all, this is the device that pumps volts into your beloved components. Why spend 300-400 on a GPU when you are just going to skimp on a decent PSU.

See this link for the sad truth about this PSU.
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/apevia-turbolink-atx-tl450w-bk-power-supply-review/6/

Apparently, the reviewer's test model only has 1 12v rail, even though it advertises 2. Also, don't think that you have 28amps, total 12v amperage is not as easy as adding the two up. Your PSU probably has closer to 22-24 amps and the GTX 970 requires 28amps on a 500W PSU minimum. This isn't counting the amps required for your CPU as well. This explains the crashes during gameplay.

I'd recommend the following for your build (It has 62amp on a single 12v rail):
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-CX600-Supply-Bronze-Certified/dp/B0092ML0OC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482161389&sr=8-2&keywords=corsair+psu

Or for cheaper you can get this (40amps on the 12v rail):
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1482161485&sr=8-9&keywords=corsair+psu

I think i spent a weekend researching power distribution after my first build had the same issues.

I have talked to some people and they have said that I should upgrade my PSU. It is currently 300W and I should upgrade it to a 600W one. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0092ML0OC/ref=twister_B01DLKRLAW?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

I have been building gaming PCs for a few years and this is what I would change.


I would change the fx6300 + hyper 212 for an fx8320. The 8320 is better for gaming and you can survive a few weeks without overclocking it. It has better performance at stock speeds than the fx6300 does when overclocked.


You can find cheaper ram that performs the same or even better. Like this http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-Ballistix-PC3-12800-240-Pin-BLS2CP4G3D1609DS1S00/dp/B006WAGGUK/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1381353096&sr=8-11&keywords=8gb+ddr3


Not sure if you really need 2tb but I guess you do. If you don't switch back to 1TB and get another hard drive when you need it.

You NEED a better power supply. A 8320 when overclocked can reach 300w, the gtx 660 uses at least 120w. That's 420W for a 430w PSU. Too close in my opinion.

I would suggest this as least http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DGHKK7M/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2QJQRG0AYGTMR&coliid=I3ETXWNC8Y71SR

If possible, get this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0092ML0OC/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2QJQRG0AYGTMR&coliid=I1NJMU7VF08WV9


Now, about the "other" stuff. I have a sidewinder keyboard and it's ok but you want to get a mechanical keyboard. I only bought mine because it was really cheap. I got it for like $15.

Getting the mechanical keyboard right now would go over your budget so get a cheap one and get this later http://www.amazon.com/SteelSeries-6Gv2-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B008OQTGBQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1381353853&sr=8-2&keywords=steelseries+keyboard



About the mice. As far as I know, only the g400, razer deathadder and the zowie evo2 and FK have no acceleration sensors. I would get any of those.

g400 for palm grip, razer deathadder black edition for palm grip, deathadder 2013 edition for semi-palm / semi-claw grip, Zowie mouses for claw grip.


About the headset, people that know about headphones recommend headphones instead of headsets for gaming. Headsets have overall lower sound quality and it doesn't give you any advantage at all to your performance in gaming.


I would get this headphones with a PCIe asus xonar dg soundcard. You can get the soundcard later if you want, so you can feel the difference better. http://www.amazon.com/JVC-HARX700-Precision-Sound-Headphones/dp/B0013OWPV4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381354267&sr=8-1&keywords=rx700



I think that's it. If you have any doubt, let me know.


Edit: forgot about the case. That rosewill case is fine but it only has 1 frontal intake, no bottom intakes and no 3.0 usb ports. I like this nzxt case a lot because it is very cheap and has everything you could need from a mid tower case. If you can afford the extra $20, get it. http://www.amazon.com/Technologies-Tempest-Steel-Tower-Airflow/dp/B005MMW4DM/ref=sr_1_30?ie=UTF8&qid=1381354467&sr=8-30&keywords=nzxt+case

If you get a Nvidia GPU you will have no problems with power consumption for the most part. I can recommend a corsair power supply if you do choose to go for a beefyer GPU such as a high end nvidia or a AMD r9 http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Builder-Watt-EPS%C2%A0-CX600/dp/B0092ML0OC/ref=lp_1161760_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1427166491&sr=1-4

Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0092ML0OC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1425509474&sr=8-3&keywords=power+supply&dpPl=1&dpID=51YFU0kvQJL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=51YFU0kvQJL&ref=plSrch

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble.

This 600W corsair

Never go cheap on the PSU my friend. This is a reliable psu. With 1x6pin & 1x8pin. I highly recommend it. $50

http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Series-Modular-Bronze-ATX12V/dp/B00ALK3KEM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1410211597&sr=8-2&keywords=power+supply

Thank you for responding everyone. I think the conclusion is a new power supply instead of risking it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ALK3KEM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_d.9qzb0GN2TA3
This is what I was planning on getting. Thoughts?

to be honest, it might be a little more expensive, but worthwhile to get a PSU that has more SATA connectors.

I got mine on a sale, but its still a reasonable price on amazon right now Corsair 750W PSU, and this one comes standard with 8 sata connectors, on top of being modular, you can add more sata cables in the future if need be

Your upgrade looks like it will be way cheaper than mine was.

I got the Rift on sale for $350, but my PC was like 10 years old with only a new SSD in it.

Ended up getting an i5-9600K + MSI Z390 Gaming Edge for $470, 16 GB of RAM, Cooler Master 212 EVO which turned out to be huge and a huge pain in the ass to install (I recommend watching the video on that page that I didn't notice until after I installed the thing with only it's Ikea-like instructions.), but that big fan means it's far quieter than the tiny stock fans processors usually come with. The i5-9600K does not come with a fan either, so I had no choice and this was the most popular one on NewEgg.

Also got myself an MSI Gaming X GTX 1070 used on Ebay for $270. And because it only has one HDMI port, I decided to use that for the RIFT because it was less risky, and got a Displayport to HDMI cable which supports audio for my monitor which has the speakers built in and does not have a Displayport connector. Only afterward while taking my PC apart however did I realize I had the HMDI cable plugged into my old card with a DVI adapter, and the Gaming X has a DVI port as well, so I could have saved the money on the cable. :(

Also at the last minute I had to run out and grab a Corsair 750W power supply because my perfectly good Coolermaster 750W power supply did not have an 8 pin connector for my CPU. Of course, when I got it home it did not have the 4 pin connector and the motherboard has both a 4 pin and 8 pin and I assumed both would be needed, but I gave it a shot and just having the 8 pin was fine. But now I wonder if just having the 4 pin would also have been fine. The damn manual doesn't have a thing to say about it being okay to just use one of them, but being an electrical engineer I have to assume they're both tied to the same rail on the board, so I'm just gaining a bit more copper to lower the voltage drop if I were to connect a 4 pin as well, and the system seems perfectly stable, so perhaps they included the second connector to help with overclocking. I dunno.

Anyway, final tally including the Rift without a third sensor was $1,339.

And if you're wondering why I didn't go with AMD, well, I could have but when I priced it out, I wasn't actually going to save that much. And the Intel seemed like it would perform better with both games and applications and would just be less likely to have any issues like the Vive and its wireless solution do with AMD processors.

Part of the reason the AMD was not much cheaper is the same MSI motherboard would have been more expensive as an AMD variant and while the AMD included a cooler, the Cooler Master one was only $30 and had a bigger fan which meant it would likely be quieter. Though the AMD does run at a lower wattage, so it could be a toss up. All I know is my old PC sounded like a jet engine when I started doing any heavy lifting with 3D graphics, and it was still kinda noisy otherwise, but now its super quiet and even when running 3D apps that MSI card which I specifically chose because it's one of the quietest, was indeed really quiet.

Speaking of the 1070, my god that is a monster of a card! I barely fit it in my case. And my case is a full size tower. But it has extra 3.5" bays down the bottom where I have my hard drives installed and I had to move them down some more to get it to fit and it only barely slid in behind the metal frame of the drive bay.

Only other thing to mention is while I had no problem fitting my two ram sticks on the motherboard, that Cooler Master cooler's fan would probably collide with one of the ram sticks if I were to install four in there. I think the fan can slide up and down on the cooler though, so perhaps as long as you have low profile ram, you could slide it up a smidge or two to make it fit. Something to consider if you think you may eventually want 32 or 64GB of ram.

The NVidia GTX 970 is a very fast card at a very reasonable price.

An Antec 620W modular or Corsair 750W modular PSU would probably do the trick.

This would keep you inside your $500 range (just barely). I only suggest the higher-range power supplies because too often problems emerge with PCs that are caused by dodgy power.

Looking to build the "exterminator" from the builds list. It says to get Corsair CXM 550W power supply. Now in Canada the Corsair CX 750W is on sale for the same price. Would it be better to just go for the 750? Links to both below
550W
750W

This one is $70.

Corsair CX Series 750 Watt 80 Plus Bronze Certified Modular Power Supply (CP-9020061-NA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ALK3KEM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gNvPCbDMMDXF2

In regards to the PSU, I was thinking going with this, which is semi-modular. Not sure what you went with. 750 is a great size for expanding in the future. Do it.

Never had any other problems in any other games, I get 100+ frames in Lol CSGO Overwatch WoW with no drops. Dxdiag is wrong it is 2g

Here is my Card and PSU, No I cannot borrow another PSU.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00ENZRQ5U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00ALK3KEM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got off it of Amazon. Though I was surprised that my PSU came in the color that it did, but it doesn't matter since my PSU hidden by my case.

Everything he said is spot on. I have 4 cheap Chinese printers and those are all the recommended upgrades regardless of the brand.

I recommend this power supply. It can provide 50% more power and has a cooling fan.

These mosfets have worked very well for me and lowered bed heating times significantly as well as make your printer a lot safer.

Personally I haven't had any issues with the bed connector, but maybe some epoxy or hot glue would keep the wires from moving around too much.

One of the best upgrades I did was to flash Marlin onto the board as the stock firmware is kind of crappy.
This also allows the use of a Inductive proximity sensor which makes leveling the bed significantly easier.

The bearings he recommended, the Drylin ones, will make the movements of your printer a little smoother and a lot quieter.

The belts stretch. The ones from China are rarely reinforced. I'm lazy so i just tighten them every so often. But it would be worthwhile to just start with the higher end reinforced belts.

That aside, once your printer is up and running and somewhat calibrated, head over to thingiverse and search for your printer. There are thousands of upgrades available.

Good luck!

Save some money and get a 30 amp PSU. I run up to 12 gridseed on each one. All you need is a power cord to cut up.

http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer-Project/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1397887222&sr=8-2&keywords=30+amp+led+power

Use this guide for the wiring instructions.

https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=494625.msg5448809#msg5448809

I've got (one of these)[http://www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1464028524&sr=8-8&keywords=12v+power+supply] powering my VHF radio and it seems to work well. It's easier to connect things to and supplies plenty of power for most anything. I also have on that powers my MTW MiniMax.

You will need to sacrifice an old PC power cord to hook it up though, so if you don't have one lying around, order one.

eTopxizu 12v 30a Dc Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply 360w for CCTV, Radio, Computer Project https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7CWSCG/

This one will work great, has more than enough power for you.

The approach I'm taking on my Pi 3-based "field computer" project is to use a buck converter to supply constant 5V to a 20000mah battery pack, in turn being fed by a cheapo 12V 30A switching PSU. That battery pack can pump out more than enough current for my purposes, but for higher amperage loads you could simply inject USB power directly from the buck converter rails.

Total cost of approximately $30 is competitive with a quality 5V 10A AC adapter. The benefit with this setup over an adapter is that by skipping the PSU stage and feeding straight off the buck converter, I can run off of essentially any common DC source, including car and motorcycle batteries. Of course, if the input voltage isn't 12V, you'll have to dial it in with the buck converter, but that's a small price for the ability to tap into all those 18V power tool batteries and even 36V golf carts & wheelchairs.

Note that there are a BUNCH of those "DROK" brand converters on Amazon. Some are boost only, some buck only, others have both stages on the same board for greatly increased flexibility at the cost of some conversion efficiency. Watch the voltage and amperage specs, assume that any stated thresholds are optimistic, and plan to do thermal testing and add additional cooling if needed for your application. If you can find them, and they are getting hard to find, the MingHe D3806 is pretty much the best, and is actually the one I'm using.

Note also to take care with wire resistance! Most especially, be mindful not to end up with a design that's got all 6 amps flowing over some generic USB cable with 28 gauge 5v strands.

I bought this for my makerfarm i3 8"

Amazon link, 12V 30A -> 360W

So how about you figure out what voltage the wallwarts output and then buy a single larger DC power supply to plug all of them into?
Something like this
Which would require cutting wires or

easier option no cutting

Get one of these and save yourself a lot of heartaches :
http://www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1458795481&sr=8-2&keywords=12v+power+supply

Just a cheap one from Amazon. Someone did a video about how much power the various parts of the A8 pulled, I think the bed was 11watts, the hot end 4watts and one watt per stepper. And that the stock psu struggled to put out 20 watts. So the one I got was 30 watts and both the bed and hot end heat up faster. I went ahead and set up dual mosfets, because why not? They cost 10 bucks for 2 and potentially divert 15 watts from passing through the notoriously prone to melting motherboard.

eTopxizu 12v 30a Dc Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply 360w for CCTV, Radio, Computer Project  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=cm_sw_r_em_taa_Bs8uCbH65ZK0T

How are you gearing down the motor that you linked? At 4500rpm its going to have very little torque. I'd go for something like this paired with something like this.

I have everything daisy chained together from a 12v power supply.


3528 2 Pin LED Strip Jumper Connector... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0739V9DRR?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Striveday™68pcs 2p Spring Connector... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KT91OEW?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Regular red/black wire.

eTopxizu 12v 30a Dc Universal... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7CWSCG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Grey Wire Connector Pack, Bag of 100... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L0GN4YQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


Should get you in the right direction.

8" coaxial x4 $52 shipped

12" sub $30 shipped

Bluetooth head unit $37 shipped

sub amp $50 shipped

PSU $20

box and miscellaneous puts you over budget a tad. But powering the coaxials with the headunit, efficient sub... should sound good and get loud.

Probably not, get this power supply https://www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=eTopxizu+12v+30a+Dc&qid=1555679452&s=gateway&sr=8-3 and also get a v6 hotend, trianglelab sells near identical ones for $15, the stock heatbreak has a tendency to fall out

If it's useful, I too just got started, and built a similar drone. When it came to charging, I had to read a ton of stuff. Here's what I did (all non-referral Amazon links. you may find cheaper on banggood if you want to wait forever):

ISDT Charger

12v Power Supply

Balance Charger

To connect these up, it may be useful to have some extra XT60 plugs since the power supply won't have XT60, and neither does the balance charger.

With these optional parts, I was able to make a nice looking (and more safe) charger from the power supply, along with a 3d print available here


Voltmeter

Power plug

I found this to be a pretty fun project, and wasn't as expensive as some options I saw on HobbyKing or everywhere else. To be fair, it wasn't the cheapest option either.

Wow, you just solved it and I am an idiot. I ordered 2 Power Supplies, one was supposed to be this 12V 360W PSU for the RAMPS/etc. and the other is this 24V 500W PSU exclusively for the Heated Bed.

I could have sworn I double checked but I just looked and it seems I have 2 24V PSUs. Was looking for the model number on the one connected to the RAMPS and it says s-360-24 on the side sigh.

Well that explains why it fried it. Time to return that for the correct PSU.

I noticed my heated bed stopped working after a >24h print a few days ago. Inspecting the bed-side wires, Everything looked alright, but when I opened up the casing (It's a Robo R1+), I found that one wire on the power supply melted down.

My options are to either replace the whole supply, OR to simply replace the wire. For reference, It's a S-360-12
. I'm pretty split on which one to go with, as they've got essentially the same amount of work to them.

I do find it interesting, however, that the burnout only caused the heated bed to stop functioning, as the power is delivered (and distributed by) the ramps board. I would have expected more than one thing to give out.

Thank you for the reply. I was looking at buying this on amazon, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_oTZiybZ0PN7ZE, do you think that'll be a good one?

I bought an i3x at the beginning of June. Some thoughts are below. The tl;dr: Not the prettiest parts, and a subpar hotend, but I wanted an aluminum frame (humidity in my state is horrid) and knew I was buying a long-term project anyways. Overall, I'm happy with my purchase. Feel free to PM me if you have specific questions or whatever.

• They had some minor supply chain issues that delayed the shipping of my printer by a week or so, since their source for fasteners was backordered. Mine were drop-shipped, and got to me a few days after the rest of the parts. They also had to send me a few printed parts that got left out of the kit, but since it was just the brackets that attach the bed to the Y-rails, I was able to improvise temporarily with some bits from home depot so it didn't set me back at all.
  
  
• As mentioned, I mainly went with them over some of the other budget i3 options because my budget was limited and I wanted an aluminum frame. Having built the printer now, I'd feel comfortable with an acrylic frame, although I'm glad I didn't go with wood for my region.
  
  
• Expect to be buying a long-term project. While it's pretty dependable so far, I've got a handful of improvements I'm working on (listing those below), and would really like to upgrade to another hotend in the near future. I was expecting this, and it's why I bought a reprap kit instead of a commercial printer - It lets me make incremental upgrades along the way and experiment with it instead of trying to find the perfect printer out of the box now.
  
  
• Printed parts aren't the prettiest: most holes needed drilling with the proper drill bit, some minor sanding. Only really frustrating bit were the parts that hold the belt on the X or Y carriage, which required a lot of sanding to get the belts to fit (and I didn't want to risk a higher power tool, since too much room would be bad). Nothing has broken in about a month of use, with about 2kg of filament used.
  
  
• All the metal parts and fasteners are sufficient - galvanized steel for the threaded rod isn't the prettiest, but is perfectly functional for a frame. Fasteners are all quality and nothing has stripped or misbehaved.
  
  
• The hotend is the one thing you'll see consistent complaints about - I don't think anyone really likes it. I got the 1.75mm / .5mm version. It works ok (as mentioned above), but has a tendency to ooze from the joint between the brass and the PEEK, and last time I had it apart the PTFE tube inside had started to mushroom slightly - I'd save the $50 on the printer price and go ahead and buy another compatible hotend if I were you. The slot on the extruder is a standard size, so installing another hotend shouldn't be hard at all. I decided to go with their hotend since I didn't know anything about the standards involved, and was concerned I'd end up with a hotend that wouldn't quite fit, without a working printer to make a replacement mount - which was a somewhat unfounded concern. Go ahead and buy a JHead or e3d, it'll be worth the effort, and the cost isn't much different.
  
  
• Print Quality is pretty good - some ooze as mentioned, but I think at least some of that can be blamed on my retraction settings (still working on ironing out those..). I had access to a non-functional 3d printer at my office (early mendel variant) that I am currently working on rehabilitating, and the print quality on my printer is better than my coworkers were ever able to get out of the office printer. There's room for improvement, but mainly in aesthetics and how much cleanup is required - mechanically they're perfectly sound.
  
  
• Electronics are a bit of a mixed bag - the RAMPS board is nice (glad I went with a RAMPS board instead of one of the other single-board solutions), but the stepsticks are of questionable quality (PCB material is oddly rounded on the edges like it was snapped by hand, and the trimpots don't behave like they're described on the wiki articles about the pololu-style drivers). I also suspect that the 'Arduino' is a Chinese knockoff instead of a real Arduino, but it looks and functions just fine. The heated bed supplied works great, kinda wish they included a Power Supply (I sourced mine here.
  
  
  Things I want to improve include:
  
  
• Endstops: i3x uses little clips that friction-fit on the smooth rods, but they're a bit too loose for my tastes, and aren't very easy to adjust small amounts. I'm planning on trying this out for my z-axis at least, which will hopefully solve that problem.
  
  
• Extruder/x-carriage: The slot that the hotend mounts in is covered by the large gear on the extruder, so I have to unmount that gear to remove the hotend. I had some crappy filament snap off just out of reach (testing some of the old PLA stockpile that was purchased with the work printer a few years back), and had to remove the hotend to get it out - since that gear attaches to a locknut, it's a massive pain to remove. Looking at alternative x-carriages, but should be solvable since everything is standard sizes.
  
  
• I'm gathering materials to rework the wiring harness. Some of the wires are slightly shorter than I'd like, the thermistor wires are too short to bundle up with the extruder motor wires running over the top of the frame, and I really don't like the crimp connectors that they sent along for the motor wires - they're functional, but I've never had much luck with crimp connectors holding long-term, and they don't look good.

I'm on my phone so I can't really link it, but I posted a while back about a cheap power supply. It's the one I use daily and works great. For $23 I don't see how you could beat it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00D7CWSCG

Thank you for the input! And thank you very much for offering to send me that MOSFET, but I actually just ordered the same one! Ha. I ordered a new PSU ( think this one is ok? ) Do you have any links or guides you recommend for the hotbed upgrades?


Edit: I wasn't aware of the fire hazards until I got this thing put together, is it really that bad? After I setup the MOSFET is it safe?

I was going to do the same, but got these. Glad I went with the standard supply, it mounts to the i3V frame as well. You can skip the cord if you have one already, just cut the one end off.

$22.14 12v20a
Cord

http://www.pc-specs.com/mobo/HP/HP_IPISB-CH2_%28Chicago%29/1627/Compatible_GPUs

https://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Desktop-Hardware-and-Upgrade-Questions/Please-help-Compatible-graphics-cards-for-HP-Pavilion-HPE-h8/td-p/5935313

Yup your right.

Without knowing your CPU/memory and or financial budget it is hard to say. But you probably want something off this list.

https://pcpartpicker.com/products/motherboard/?compatible_with=ttQRsY#sort=a8&s=14

Personally I would just sell the whole HP desktop on Ebay as some old person will probably buy it for a couple three hundred. Then you can just add that money to the ~$100 you would have spend on a mobo. So you are at about $300-400...add a couple cnotes and you should be able to build a decent rig around that 1050.

| part | price |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|------|
| mobo | $50 |
| cpu | $120 |
| ram | $85 |
| disk | $140 |
| ps | $40 |
| case | $40 |
| Total | $475 |

or go get a pcmasterrace build kabylake builds (I think the mobo prices are still too high)

(edit: to fix link)

Go in the middle and get the EVGA 500b or I guess the 600b cause it's only like a dollar more. But I wouldn't cheap out and get the white one, especially in a gaming build.

Also, the v300 is a pretty bad SSD. Some good budget ones are a-data sp550, pny cs1311, ocz trion 150, and most Sandisk models.

Everything is looking fine dude except the power supply. Stay away from the brand Thermaltake.

Try to get something like this>

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-BRONZE-Warranty-Tester-100-B1-0500-KR/dp/B00DZ6R9GE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473733025&sr=8-2&keywords=evga+500w

If you have any questions people ask away. :)

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-BRONZE-Supply-Warranty-100-B1-0500-KR/dp/B00DZ6R9GE/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1491690556&sr=1-1&keywords=EVGA+500B

My friend built his g4560 rig in this case with this psu. Quiet, does a good job and has a 80+ bronze rating. That's my recommendation. The PSU i'm using in MY rig though, Old, sketchy and somehow still powering a 5850 in 2017. I need an upgrade haha

So looking at your other post, and the info you provided, I have a couple comments:

1. Given the specs you provided, I think you should have no problem running really any game at 1080p 60Hz.
   
2. From the comments on your other post, it seems like the issue is power delivery. Did you check all of the power supply connections to ensure that they are sufficiently connected? There was also a comment regarding testing the RAM, have you checked that?
   
3. if you need a new PSU, there are a few EVGA ones on sale on Amazon. One for ~$40 (https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-BRONZE-Supply-Warranty-100-B1-0500-KR/dp/B00DZ6R9GE)
   
   but personally I would advise (if you have some extra money) jumping up to the 80+ gold PSU (https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Supernova-Modular-Warranty-220-G3-0550-Y1/dp/B01LWTS2UL) for ~$20 more.
   
   From what I know, EVGA is a trustworthy company, and their G3 power supplies are a good choice.

The recommended PSU is 300 watts I believe, 250 may be cutting it a bit close, it will probably work but isn't worth possibly damaging your $200 video card. I would upgrade the power supply. EVGA has a good 500 watt 80+ bronze for under $50.

• You don't need a Z97 board for that locked CPU. A B85 or H81 board would be fine!
  
• For the price of that 960, you can grab a 4GB 380 that will easily outperform it.
  
• You're missing a power supply. Grab a 500B, it should be able to handle this build quite comfortably.
  
• Yes, these components are compatible.
  
  I would also advise to go with Skylake, a 6400 or 6500 would best suit this build, as opposed to Haswell, due to the fact that the LGA1151 socket is to be used for Cannonlake and Kaby Lake. If you want to, therefore, upgrade down the line, you won't need to replace the motherboard and the RAM. I assume you used PCPartPicker, which will automatically filter incompatible parts, so there are no worries there. I'll work on a build and post it here shortly!

> EVGA 500B

This one?

You don't have to spend an arm and a leg on a PSU to get one that isn't going to completely fail you or damage your other, more expensive parts. Amazon has the EVGA 500w for $37.48. It's a low-cost option that won't damage the goods. Check the JonnyGuru site for reliable reviews on power supplies and see for yourself.

http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Continuous-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU?ie=UTF8&keywords=evga%20psu&qid=1465464562&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

that would save you a few bucks.

I think I'd need at least 500W to be on the safe side - the PC has an i5-6400 and a 750ti. So I'd rather have more than less when it comes to the PSU. With the prebuilt I have, the PSU is at the top of the case.

There was a video someone made on replacing the PSU for this particular PC. But the only other question I have, I guess, would be if any of these PSUs are safe to use and a reliable when it comes to stability?

• Antec Platinum 550W
  
  
• Corsair CS550M
  
  
• EVGA 500W
  
  
• I also am looking at a Corsair ATX CX550M, but I am unsure if this is compatible?

If you're willing to lose modular cables, this should be good.

EVGA 500 W1, 80+ WHITE 500W, 3 Year Warranty, Power Supply 100-W1-0500-KR, Black
$29.99
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H33SFJU/?tag=pcpapi-20

GTX 750 TI required 60 W
and Minimum System Power Requirement (W) 300 W
i would recommend u buy new PSU and GPU maybe GTX 1050

You can calculate how much power u need in this site: https://outervision.com/power-supply-calculator

psu:https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1511941746&sr=1-1&keywords=psu
or
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139201

GPU
1050: https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-02G-P4-6150-KR/dp/B01M9FD3PC/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1511941832&sr=1-2&keywords=1050

This should be fine. I have one running an i5 and 970 in my htpc. Highly rated.

Yeah theres 500W 80+ EVGA PSU for $35 on Amazon Warehouse Deals link

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-Optiplex-7010-Intel-Core-i5-3570-3-40GHz-4-Gb-2TB-HDD-Working-Free-Ship/392314686107?hash=item5b57c70a9b:g:4H4AAOSwzkRdBZ3m:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!72701!US!-1

$120 for chassis, MOBO, CPU, RAM, HDD

$80 GT 1030
(Literally anywhere)

https://www.amazon.com/Patriot-Signature-PC3-12800-1600MHz-PSD34G160081/dp/B00AASUPHK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=4Gb+DDR3&qid=1562156435&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

$17 4Gb DDR3

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=500+watt+power+supply&qid=1562156603&s=gateway&sr=8-3

500 Watt PSU

Check my work!

Parts list for an entry level ‘Gaming’ PC, I would recommend you go this route, especially if you plan on upgrading further down the road


This should be pretty similar for console performance and notice it DOSE NOT cost $500-$600

If you buy a used one make sure it has some sort of quality certification. Something like a "80 plus bronze" just as an example.

​

To be honest though new power supplies are not expensive but they are something you do NOT want to cheap out on. It's the source of power for ALL of the parts in your computer and a shitty power supply can ruin everything. Something like [this](https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=sr\_1\_2?keywords=power+supply&qid=1562432520&s=gateway&sr=8-2](https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=power+supply&qid=1562432520&s=gateway&sr=8-2) will work for a decent build and has a 80 plus certification. Something like [this](https://www.ebay.com/itm/Supermax-400-Watt-ATX-PC-Computer-Desktop-Power-Supply-SATA-20-24-NEW/283470277822?hash=item4200252cbe:g:TuEAAOSwE9lZsbr1](https://www.ebay.com/itm/Supermax-400-Watt-ATX-PC-Computer-Desktop-Power-Supply-SATA-20-24-NEW/283470277822?hash=item4200252cbe:g:TuEAAOSwE9lZsbr1) I wouldn't touch with a 10 foot pole.

edit: typo

> Seems like a unbelievable price to performance return point.

It really is, ever since AMD released Ryzen 1000 series, Intel's been feeling the heat. Well priced products that perform great is always good for competition.

As far as cases, I've been eyeballing this one because it has good cooling, with an acceptable price. Only real drawback is that it doesn't have a slot for an optical disk drive. Coolermaster has one with an ODD, but it isn't sold in the USA.

You may be able to re-use your case, unless it's from a prebuilt computer (particularly Dell / Alienware) your new board should fit in it just fine.

I was going to recommend This mATX case, but decided against it because I don't think your video card will fit. If you've got a stubby / short 1060 it might work, but I wouldn't bet on it.

This case is the cheapest case I can find that I'm confident will fit everything you have. $40ish.

8 GB RAM is what you need if you're gaming. 4 GB will bottleneck. If you get a 2X4 GB combo now, you can upgrade to 16 GB later with an additional 2X4 GB kit. In the meantime, look up how to take advantage of "Dual Channel RAM" on your motherboard. Also, make sure you get 3000mhz RAM, the speed makes a considerable difference on AMD CPUs.

2X4GB (8 GB total): [link] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0157UPYZ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WXmiDbH8KM7MB). You can select 2X8GB (16 total) if you want, but you don't need it for most games now, and if you prefer older games anyhow, it's a waste of your budget.

If you're going to splurge on anything in your new build, I highly recommend it being your PSU, especially since your old PSU likely killed your motherboard. A modular PSU will look much more tidy, since you can unplug cables that you don't need. I personally trust Corsair's RM series, though the lowest wattage (cheapest) one is still $130: Link.

If that's too much, or if your case doesn't have a Window and aesthetics don't matter, and old 500 watt PSU will do fine. 600 watts if you want some breathing room. Keep a look out for anything with a 3-5 year warranty from the manufacturer (look on their website for this info, don't trust Amazon); those are typically built better and are less likely to fail.

This is the cheapest PSU that I'd personally recommend. 500 Watts is fine for what you have, I think 450 watts is pushing on the "too low" side though.

Edit: All my links are ugly, give me a few minutes to tidy up.

Edit of edit: links tidied up. Also, 450 watts, not $450. (Near the end.)

Yeah, you should upgrade. I think the overall minimal is 400watts for being the standard but for you, I would just get a 600 watt. You can get some cheap name brand power supplys on Amazon.EVGA 500 W1, 80+ WHITE 500W, 3 Year Warranty, Power Supply 100-W1-0500-KR, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nx5mDbF3WQ7HR

If you have money to burn, then go big. But for me, the past 5 years I never had a problem with my 70 dollar psu.

Also this one that is 600 watts. CORSAIR VS Series, VS650, 650 Watt, 80+ White Certified, Non-Modular Power Supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078HJ2RCW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cy5mDbH2W1015

For sure! Some of your parts on your list come from OutletPC, so here's the cheapest 580 I could find (http://www.outletpc.com/mq1372-gigabyte-radeon-rx-580-gvrx580gaming4gd-4gb-256bi.html?utm_source=mq1372-gigabyte-radeon-rx-580-gvrx580gaming4gd-4gb-256bi&utm_medium=shopping%2Bengine&utm_campaign=pcpartpicker&utm_content=Gigabyte%2B-%2BVideo%20Cards)

I didn't read your whole post at the time of posting my comment. If you're an Amazon Prime member, this PSU is worth it for $30 (https://smile.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1494877028&sr=8-10&keywords=crucial+ballistix+sport+8gb&sa-no-redirect=1)

Looks pretty good for a budget PC, I'd look at spending $30 more on a r9 270 since it's quite a bit better.

Swap out the PSU for a similar quality 500w one and you'll have plenty of power for no extra cost.


If there's any way you can stretch to a cheap i5 it'll be well worth it as more games start utilizing multicores. It's another $60 but if you can't do another $90 then I'd go for the graphics card upgrade instead.

I used to have the same 710 before I switched to a 1060, you will need a new psu. I would recommend this one , it is cheap and stays at 500w.

I'm no expert with PSUs so this is just my opinion. but if you're willing to put a bit more money into it EVGA makes some good cheap PSU for about $60 (USD) new

but here's 1 for about $40 EVGA 500 W1 that comes with a 3 year warranty

A 500W EVGA power supply is reasonably priced at $35 and good enough for nearly any budget and midrange build:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H33SFJU

You can bring it over to your next build when you upgrade.

Scared shitless of frying my parts so I'm going with this for a PSU:http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Continuous-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457828249&sr=8-1&keywords=500+W
I do think I'll be OCing the G3258, maybe try for 4GhZ.

If you can buy from Amazon, get this Crucial BX100 instead. It's a vastly superior SSD.

The Tacens doesn't have a very good reputation either. A servicable, inexpensive PSU from Amazon would be the EVGA 500W. It's a lower quality unit than I would normally recommend for your build, but it's better than either of the other two. A better quality unit, though more expensive, is the SuperFlower GoldenGreen 450 HX.

Edit: I don't speak or read Spanish, so I hope these parts are actually available :)

As this person specified that PSU should be good. I that your best buy link was Canadian so here is a Canadian amazon link to almost identical PSU. https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485987043&sr=8-1&keywords=power+supply

well my friend you just won the golden ticket by living by a micro center. there are so many deals and combinations I can put together for you. here's the first one. get this cpu
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.aspx?sku=804831

with this mother board
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.aspx?sku=804831

this is the ram that is cheapest
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MTSWG30/?tag=pcpapi-20

Here's the psu
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H33SFJU/?tag=pcpapi-20

here's the gpu
https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/comments/5r63tu/gpu_asus_rx_470_strix_oc_edition_11490_16863_pay/

here's a decent budget case
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811517027&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker,%20LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=

all that parts should cost 550 before taxes and rebates, and that's without a windows key.

but you could also just buy a pre-built and put a 470 in it along with a new psu.

http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.aspx?sku=139808

https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/comments/5r63tu/gpu_asus_rx_470_strix_oc_edition_11490_16863_pay/

this build is 600 before taxes but that includes the windows key. but if you have to wait to get a windows key you can use windows 10 without a key and just deal with the watermark until you can get one but it;s not even that bad. as long as you play in full screen it won't be there.

Thanks for your reply! I agree about the PSU and now that you mention it, I have been getting the Blue Screen of Death randomly lately. Would this PSU work with this setup: https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1499139936&sr=1-2&keywords=psu?
Maybe I'll forget about the DVD drive and upgrade the PSU.

And yeah I know my budget is super low but it's all I can afford at the moment. As for performance, I plan on playing pretty casually once in a while so hopefully this fits the bill. Thanks again!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H33SFJU/?tag=pcpapi-20

Sorry for the super-delayed response....life got in the way.

In looking for stuff compatible with the 4870 series, it looks like it may be a mid-tower with a standard ATX power supply. If so, you can use just about any power supply you like. I would get something local that you can return just in case they did put something proprietary that you can't easily replace (doesn't look like it though). People online seemed to have a 250-300W PSU in theirs by default though....you may be able to get away with that using just power adapters if your graphics card is reasonably efficient.

I haven't built a machine in a while (I'll be honest). But back in the day, FSP (Fortron Source) and Seasonic made some of the best PSUs you could get. I think FSP sold some as PowerMan. Antec, Corsair, EVGA, etc were good value-for-dollar options as well.
I would just make sure to do your research on whatever particular models are available nearby within your budget and then get something based on that. If you need a starting point though, something like this Tom's article should be decent.
https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/best-psus,4229.html

If I were to order something online, this one seems like a decent option.
Tons of reviews, lots of connectors, 40A on the 12V rail, and a good warranty from a known company.
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU

EVGA 500 W1, 80+ WHITE 500W, 3 Year Warranty, Power Supply 100-W1-0500-KR, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_utIKyohojJs7t

The case has vents right where the psu exhaust is so no issues.

i agree with above. This is also a favorite of mine, i've done 3 builds with these and they work great.

Check this out.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=twister_B00NCZND2C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

That is what i would reccomend

EVGA 500 W1, 80+ WHITE 500W, 3 Year Warranty, Power Supply 100-W1-0500-KR, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hR7YDbPCV8HZQ

https://www.amazon.de/EVGA-100-W1-0500-KR-PSU-500W-Netzteil/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481644317&sr=8-1&keywords=evga+500w

Yea I don't think it is enough power and I have never heard of the brand. I'd go with:

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483024306&sr=8-1&keywords=evga+power+supply

If you do decide to upgrade to a 970 make sure to upgrade your power supply as well. You are probably going to want a power supply around 500W. something like This should work.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00H33SFJU

How about this one or even this?

I think you'll be fine with 450-500W. This maybe?

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU

More power than you'll ever need and only $45

I don't know much about computers--I just want to play Cities: Skylines. Can I upgrade my current computer, and is it worth it? I have an HP Pavilion H8-1230 with an Nvidia GT 620. If I buy a GTX 960 and this power supply can I just swap them out? Will this work? How do I find out whether the GPU will fit on this motherboard? Thanks.

Go into your BIOS and find the option that controls what the PC does on power failure. Make sure that's set to Always Off.

That will let us isolate whether you're having a power issue (maybe circuit in your house) or a PC issue.

After you set that if it dies and doesn't reboot automatically you know it's a PSU/power outlet issue. If it reboots, you know it's on the other side of the PSU (Mobo/CPU/RAM/video card/software).

My gut instinct:

• Considering you've replaced CPU, Mobo, and RAM we can mark those off. You getting back to back defective parts there is exceedingly unlikely.
  
• I am going to assume you reinstalled W10 on rebuilt
  
• I think video card or PSU, and my gut is PSU. I've had PSUs with failing odd voltage rails (-5V) appear to work properly but cause sporadic but recurring reboots. I wouldn't put a ton of stock in EVGA saying it tested OK.
  
• 6600K and a 390, you don't need a PSU that big. Buy a cheaper backup that you can use to test.
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00H33SFJU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484402476&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=evga+psu&dpPl=1&dpID=51PiQrWaNjL&ref=plSrch would be good, cheap, and suitable.
  
• Assuming I'm right, you should be able to get EVGA to replace PSU (Look, you said it tested OK but replacing PSU alleviated issue. Are you testing all the rails? Testing ripple? Testing rise/fall time? Didn't think so.)

This Is the PSU in question. And why should I reconsider the CPU? Can you suggest a better one in a similar price range? Thanks for the help dude.

FO4 will definitely keep you involved. I've gotten 150+ hours on it already and I haven't even played the DLCs. Just getting into building all the settlements up. Also, if you have Steam (which I am assuming is where you have your FO4), grab Evolve since it's free across the board. Fun little arena shooter.

 

Also, on Amazon you should grab this PSU. I ordered it for my old desktop (since I pulled its out for my new build this weekend). Great price and should do you well. It's non-modular, but the price might get it to you for the new build sooner.

 

As for the ordering on Amazon for the GPU, I have no idea how long it will take. I really am not sure what Amazon did. They didn't even have them listed (for almost all model 1060s) before they were on back-order. So I am hoping that just means they got their shipment later than other retailers and they will be up soon.

mate, if can't afford a better psu and connect the gpu properly, you can't afford a RX 480.

edit: [500w] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/offer-listing/B00H33SFJU/ref=sr_1_1_olp?ie=UTF8&qid=1467648095&sr=8-1&keywords=evga+500w&condition=new)

Only 35 dollars and you don't run the risk of frying your pc

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00H33SFJU/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1496762463&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=evga+psu&dpPl=1&dpID=51PiQrWaNjL&ref=plSrch

By the time you're done putting drives in them, honestly you could build a fairly cheap mid-range desktop and run unraid, esxi or xen on it. As a for instance:

I just built a machine (yesterday) for my cousin for $281 with an AMD A10-7870K, 8GB of RAM (G.Skill), Gigabyte board, EVGA 500W PSU (I had drives and a case) with some minor tweaking, it should the job decently, and not sound like you live inside a box fan that's always on. I would look at adding a dedicated video card for plex, but even then, you can run plex on an I5 Intel NUC off Server 2008 R2 with 8GB of RAM (that's what mine currently is) so the A10 might be able to handle it on it's own.

If I were you I would get an evga 500 watt has the two 6+2 vga connectors you need for about 40$
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00H33SFJU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1418359480&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40#

There's some weird stuff with the power supply, some power supply don't like giving that much power over the PSU connector without a load on the main 12v rail. I had a expensive 600w I tried to use and it would do about what you're describing. Then I dug an old 350 watt it and it works great.
When I was looking into it this one was recommended https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H33SFJU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I going with a red and black theme, not important but figured I would mention it. I was given this case, power supply, 4 1tb seagates, and a bunch of red LED corsair fans from a friend to "start me off".

EDIT: this is the model of the PS

EDIT2: so everyone seems to be pushing for the cheaper Mobo and the better processor, this doesn't make sense to me at all and has me really confused. I was always taught (granted my knowledge is outdated) that getting the better Mobo is the best thing you can do because things like CPUs and Cards can always be updated and switched out later on. Isnt the Mobo the backbone of the build? why would you want to skimp in the heart of the PC?

i bought this for 30 bucks. i have r9 380 4gb, 1 240gb ssd, i5 6500 cpu. should i return it and get this instead?

I always suggest viewing your PSU as an insurance policy...a PSU can easily fry a system if you aren't careful and I have seen it more than once where someone spends a ton of money on a top tier system and goes cheap on PSU just to have it brick their system. I would suggest getting a new one unless you would rather potentially spend the money on a completely new system.

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-220-G2-0750-XR/dp/B00IKDETOW/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1485294185&sr=1-2&keywords=750w+power+supply&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A2888290011

something like that will work probably. It is gold certified and cheap enough and you get the same 750W you have now.

For less messy amazon links you can extract the part after "/dp/" in

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-220-G2-0750-XR/dp/B00IKDETOW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484246814&sr=8-2&keywords=evga+g2

and make it:

https://amzn.com/B00IKDETOW

Or via smile link:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00IKDETOW

BEEP BOP

Plz send any recommendations via PM

Honestly, that build will probably draw around 400-450 watts on full load. So if you're not planning on going SLI, i personally wouldn't, I would get a 600-650 watt PSU for some headroom. The EVGA SuperNOVA line tends to be pretty good, this one would work great.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYGFRL6/ref=twister_B01LXKQ07C

Is on sale right now..

https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/comments/8myp2a/psu_evga_supernova_650w_g3_80_gold_fully_modular/

I don't know shit about cases, I bought this case a while back because it came with a free PSU. Then I realized the PSU is shit, and I can't return it without returning the case. I've bought a different PSU -- EVGA G3 80 Plus 650W. If I'm using a regular motherboard (B450) with Ryzen 3600 and 2060Super, will this case work? Very novice PC builder (this will be my frist one), so I would prefer that's easy to build on.

While this is a solid deal.... it can be had at Amazon for $79.99 if you want to avoid the rebate hassle.

Oh wow okay, so I got everything in the mail besides the case. So I decided to hook everything up and update the BIOS. Everything worked fine, ram clocked up to 2800 ish no prob, never tried for 3000. But I'm an idiot and shorted the wrong pins to reboot the system, saw a spark, and all the fans stopped and so did my heart. Turns out my psu saved me by Auto shutting off and I think everything is fine now.

I like the motherboard because even though I fucked up it's still alive, but those pins aren't labeled and even in the manual those pins are pretty badly explained. But the real hero is this PSU. Get this PSU. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B01LYGFRL6/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Don't necessarily need to go for a high end one but make sure you go for a 80+ rating. I have this one

https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-Bronze-Warranty-Supply-100-BT-0450-K1/dp/B01N9X3F8F/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524840008&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=evga+450w+80%2B+bronze+psu&dpPl=1&dpID=51e9xdnRi9L&ref=plSrch

I really like this and might use an old PSU to rig up a desktop vape.

For anyone interested you can do this with a modular computer PSU and not worry about splicing 120v lines. This PSU is capable of 35 amps on its 12v line. All you need to turn it on and off is either a permanent jumper wire and use the PSU switch, or get a switch and use it as the jumper wire. Then to connect the mod to it is as easy as trimming one set of pci wires so you only have the 12v and gnd lines. Then the mod is quickly detachable and all lines have safe connectors. That PSU also has a 3 year warranty, no idea if the other one does too.

You can find a good PSU for pretty cheap. This one is 450W and only $40

EVGA 450 BT, 80+ Bronze 450W, 3 Year Warranty, Power Supply 100-BT-0450-K1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9X3F8F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XNY5AbJ93928V

I would Highly recommend an ssd, a couple things you could do to save price is remove thermal paste, cryorig provides good enough paste, go for this power supply, it's on sale (plus no ketchup and mustard cables). Your case already has fans, so those aren't needed either. Also, the pentium g4560 performs very similarly to an i3 and costs only 70 dollars.

https://smile.amazon.com/EVGA-Bronze-Warranty-Supply-100-BT-0450-K1/dp/B01N9X3F8F/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498487697&sr=8-1&keywords=EVGA+450+BT

EVGA puts out some great quality ones for really cheap. Here is a great example, if youre not overclocking, bronze are really gonna be the best ones you'll need. Just make sure double check your wattage lines up (you can check that on PCPP)

prices are a little over board EVGA 450BT (newer model) for 15+shipping less than your's

arctic freezer TR($2 more than your's, but you don't include shipping)

Enermax 280 TR4 for outright cheaper

G3 for about the same price(would probably be cheaper on amazon if you added shipping)

consider lowering prices to sell, GLWS

EVGA 450 BT, 80+ Bronze 450W, 3 Year Warranty, Power Supply 100-BT-0450-K1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9X3F8F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TIN5ybD59S36H

Definitely the 3470, but do not buy that PSU. It's garbage. Get this.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9X3F8F/?tag=pcpapi-20

Where are you getting these parts?

44.99 on Amazon and free shipping
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01N9X3F8F/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01N9X3F8F/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

EVGA is currently on a massive discount, a better deal :)

What's the caveat with this power supply? 80+ bronze, black sleeved cables, 450 watt and only $21.99? Should I be skeptical or purchase 2 more for future builds?


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N9X3F8F/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1_1_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

The 450w should be adequate. For reference, the CPU has a 65w TDP, and according to Tom's Hardware, the 980 is typically about 180w during gaming. However, the 980 may peak to about 280w during stress testing. Add another about 50w for peripherals and drives, this comes to almost 300w. The other 200w can feed the motherboard, although the motherboard probably uses half that. Plus, Amazon reviews have comments of running the 980 on this PSU, even in SLI.

You may need 16 gbs of ram when the build gets older and processes start to build up / when you stream any given game. The WD SSD you have is kinda expensive - you can find 240 Gb kingston SSDs on Ebay for ~$60-70 when they hit a sale (happens semi-often, check /r/buildapcsales daily). 1050Ti is great for budget builds - check around and price match and for upcoming GPU deals. Don't forget the case and PSU. You should be able to run off This PSU and put it all in a case Like this one or similar

You could also try switching down to the Ryzen 5 1400, or waiting for the Ryzen 3.

Newer and cheaper PSU: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N9X3F8F/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
RAM: Go with a single 8gb stick for upgradibilty in the future.

Skim out on optical drive and go for this case instead: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NGCS7YA/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N9X3F8F/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Been lurking for a bit, never posted. I’m attempting my first build in 15 years so I have a question that I’m not sure warrants it’s own post so I’m bringing it here.

Looking to do things on a tight budget so I’m going the seemingly tried and true optiplex upgrade route. I’m looking at the following at the moment:

Dell Optiplex 9010(Intel Core i7-3770) or 9020(Intel Core i7-4770), and hopefully having 16gb ram off, EBay and adding the following:

Gpu: GTX 1060 6gb used off EBay

EVGA 450 BT 80+ Bronze 450w psu
https://www.amzn.com/B01N9X3F8F

SanDisk SSD PLUS 240GB
https://www.amzn.com/B01F9G43WU

What am I missing as far as issues/conflicts etc? Will I be bottlenecking my cpu with the 1060? Is there a better build within a $100-$150 range that I should be considering? Any other thoughts or suggestions would be great.

I'm partial to the EVGA PSU's, suggest a 750w or higher, here is an example through [Amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-220-G2-0750-XR/dp/B00IKDETOW) - Not a referral link, you can google prices across the web, this is only one example of what I use on my dual PSU setup.

All looks good, I would suggest getting this power supply instead

Newegg link

Amazon link

simply because it has a proven track record for being reliable (291 reviews on newegg at 5 star average and tons of amazon reviews). Another thing would be to wait on the GTX 960 until the benchmarks come out on the Radeon RX 480 because it is the same price and the 480 could perform better.

I just upgraded from a gtx 660 to a gtx 1070, and now my pc randomly restarts after gaming just a few minutes. I looked it up and I think it might be because my power supply is not strong enough or it is pretty much dead-- it is at least 4 years old like the rest of my pc and only has a 3 year warranty. I was wondering how big of a power supply I should get to run my build considering my cpu is overclocked to 4.8 ghz and I might overclock the 1070 a bit more than the factory oc. I am looking at the EVGA SuperNova G2 750 or 650.

Here is my current build. (I also have a M.2 ssd with an adapter and some headphones powered by the pc not listed.)

Thanks guys!

You would need a 750w psu for GTX 1080 SLI. The EVGA 750G2 would be my choice. I would also go with this motherboard.

You are correct in that the AMD cards require more power. You would likely need at least 850w for Crossfire (with the current TDP).

Something like this.

PSUs are rated at bronze, silver, gold, plat, or something like that

edit: If you are using one GPU, you can pick a 550W or 650W depending on which deal is better

you will need a motherboard that supports m.2 or you could save a couple of dollars and just get a 2.5" SSD.
https://www.amazon.ca/Samsung-Internal-Solid-2-5-Inch-Vertical/dp/B00LMXBOP4/ref=sr_1_23?ie=UTF8&qid=1467982330&sr=8-23&keywords=intel+ssd


I'd also recommend getting a fully modular power supply. Then you won't have to try to hid the cables you don't need in your case.
https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Certified-ATX12V-220-G2-0750-XR/dp/B00IKDETOW/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1467982378&sr=1-2

Edit: didn't see the motherboard there. you'll want a z170 motherboard if you plan to overclock. If you don't plan to overclock then that cooler is way overkill and there are much cheaper options on the market. Also I have that cooler and I have to replace the NZXT fans on it every 6 months. Just a head's up but it has a really long warranty.

Well, if you want a recommendation, I'd say this one. It's a bit on the pricey side, but it's also extremely good quality, and should last you for quite some time.

But really, anything 550W+ with at least one 8-Pin PCIe power connector should work fine.

Hello! I have an EVGA supernova GOLD 750watt modular I can sell for $85 plus shipping. Should be the last PSU you'll ever need 😀

EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G2, 80+ GOLD 750W, Fully Modular, EVGA ECO Mode, 10 Year Warranty, Includes FREE Power On Self Tester Power Supply 220-G2-0750-XR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKDETOW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YnGJDbM3XYRBB

Add $20 to your price point for an 80+ Gold EVGA 750w PSU, fully modular, manufactured by seasonic and with a 10 year warranty

5820K is the as the the 5930K but with slightly lower clock speed and the 5930K has 40 PCIE lanes vs the 5820Ks 28 PCIE lanes so it only matters with quad SLI because the 5820K doesn't support quad SLI but it supports 3-way SLI.

Also it is $200 cheaper don't know what the is in pounds but you get the point.

Source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rctaLgK5stA

Edit:

You should look into the EVGA SuperNOVA G2, they are really good quality

http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-80PLUS-Certified-220-G2-0750-XR/dp/B00IKDETOW

Also maybe a multicore Xeon is better at rendering video but also more expensive

No. Never cheap out on a PSU. If a hard graphics card fails, you loose a graphics card, if a cpu fails, you loose a cpu. If a PSU fails you will potentially be destroying all of the components in your system.

Try this one: http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Builder-Series-Bronze-Certified/dp/B008RJZQSW/ . The Corsair Power Supplies are very popular within the build market and this one is 80+ bronze certified meaning it has been through extensive testing and will perform as expected.

This one also seems to be reliable: http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-80PLUS-Certified-220-G2-0750-XR/dp/B00IKDETOW/

You really don't want to get CX PSU.

Source

This one would be way better and also currently around the same price.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKDETOW

PCPartpicker link

You should not be using a CX for a decently high end build like this. [Much better] (http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Crossfire-Warranty-220-G2-0750-XR/dp/B00IKDETOW)
And are you willing to get a 390 over the 970? Performance between the two cards are almost the same but the 390 has more VRAM, allowing for higher textures and 1440p will be a little smoother.

I'd recommend EVGA. I've read/heard nothing but good things, been using mine for about a year now and zero issues. Corsair is also great stuff. Never had a bad experience.

What I have: link

Rule of thumb:

Any mother that has a Z like a Z97 is meant for overclocking whereas H series are just standard.

Like I said I built a pic last weekend with an i5 4690 and an ASRock H97 Pro4 and it went flawless so you wouldn't be disappointed there.

Edit: plus it would match your RAM.

Second edit: you might be pushing it with 450watt and a r9 380. If you can afford it, I can recommend the EVGA G2 series enough. Top tier in terms of quality and fully modular so cable management is a breeze. I would look for other builds and see if anyone has gone 450watt with that video cards.


Power supply recommendation:
EVGA 220-G2-0550-Y1 80 PLUS GOLD 550W ECO Mode Fully Modular NVIDIA SLI Ready and Crossfire Support Continuous Power Supply http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=17-438-053

Another edit:
Even better, the 750watt version of the G2 is the same price as the 550watt version on Amazon.

EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G2 80+ GOLD, 750W ECO Mode Fully Modular NVIDIA SLI and Crossfire Ready 10 Year Warranty Power Supply 220-G2-0750-XR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKDETOW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_qsyHwb8X08VYH