Best computer recording equipment according to redditors

We found 3,262 Reddit comments discussing the best computer recording equipment. We ranked the 419 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Computer recording audio interfaces
Digital audio workstation controllers
Computer recording MIDI controllers
Computer recording software

Top Reddit comments about Computer Recording Equipment:

u/alexsgocart · 398 pointsr/DIY

I have always wanted to have a "smart" radio. My parents have always owned various Pioneer, Kenwood, and Sony radio decks, but they always had their cons to them (clunky OS, different type of touch screens that suck, lack of features, very expensive $800-$2000), useless features, etc.). I wanted something that runs Android 6.0+. I thought about using iPads, but I didn't want to waste a bunch of money for something that is going to be used in my car only. I wanted a budget friendly "smart" radio. That is when I found the perfect tablet, the Nexus 7 2013. Cheap, powerful, Android 6, compact, somewhat thin and small, and best part, it fits in a double-din radio deck.

After finding various projects that people have used, I decided to order a bunch of stuff from Amazon (everything was bought with Prime) and see if I could get this to work. It took about 3 weeks to work out all the bugs, but it runs perfect now. I never found anyone that did this mod in a Nissan Pathfinder, so that was difficult going on my own, reading various wiring diagrams and getting power, sound and steering wheel controls to work. After lots of testing each wire, and lots of trial and errors, everything is working how I want it too.

Questions that people have asked me that I can remember on the top of my head:

Q: How do you turn the tablet on and off if the power button is blocked?

A: Easy, with Timur's Kernel, and the USB car charger hooked up to the accessory power, when I turn my key on/start my car, the tablet detects power from the USB, which wakes the screen/powers on. (ELI5: there are 2 power sources in your radio, a constant 12 volt power, and an accessory key power. So when you turn the key to ACC or ON, it gives power to the tablet, but when you turn the key off, it takes away power from the USB port.)

Q: How does it hold up in the wonderful California heat?

A: Shockingly very well. It hasn't given me any issues in ~95F (+35C) degree weather. There was a day where it was 115F (46C) degrees outside, and that is when the tablet finally said NOPE and started locking up and freezing due to the ridiculous heat. After running my AC for a few minutes, it cooled the tablet down to reasonable temperature and ran normally again. When my car is parked, I have a windshield sun shade that helps a ton with keeping the sun off my black/gray dash, and/or microfiber towels over the screen to keep the sun off. If it's super hot, I just take the tablet/radio/air conditioner part out of my car and bring it inside (not that hard to remove).

Q: How do you control the volume?

A: With the JoyCon EXC, it translates either CAN, IBUS, resistive, or digital steering wheel control signals, to USB keyboard signals that the tablet can see. I have the Joycon setup to have Volume UP/DOWN, Screen ON/OFF, PAUSE/PLAY, and PREVIOUS/NEXT. Click here for more information.

Q: How do you listen to the radio/music?

A: Spotify Premium. While I can spend ~$10 on a radio antenna to USB to listen to over-the-air radio stations, I never listen to the radio. When I had my old stock radio, I never listened to the radio part. I always used my 3.5mm jack to plug in my phone for Spotify. Great perk about being a broke college student is getting 50% off Spotify Premium.

Q: Can you/do you watch TV or movies on it while you drive?

A: I can, but I don't. Pay attention to the freakin' road.

Q: How do you get internet on it since it's a WiFi version?

A: I use my Bluetooth hotspot on my phone to get internet for Waze, Google Maps, etc. I can also use the WiFi hotspot, but that uses more power. I can drive from California to Idaho running Waze the whole way and it uses about ~300MB of data.

Q: Can you make phone calls with it?

A: This has been something I have been trying, but have not had success with yet. I use an app called [TabletTalk] (, but it doesn't push the microphone/sound through the tablet. I gave up on this since I have a Samsung Gear 2 Neo smartwatch that has a microphone/speaker on it. Some day I will explore with this more.

Q: How do you power your speakers if you removed the radio?

A: I lucked out big time with this issue because my Nissan Pathfinder has the Bose System built in. That means that there's an amplifier already installed that powers the speakers. So the tablet sends the sound to the Behringer UCA202 DAC, that then converts to a 3.5mm headphone jack that then splits into the Left Front/Rear, Right Front/Rear, and dual subwoofer channels that go to the car wiring harness that then goes to the amp. This saves me hundreds of dollars. For vehicles without a stock amplifier that rely on the radio for power, that is when you will need to buy an amplifier to power the speakers. My 12 inch subwoofer also plugs into the DAC and works perfectly.

Q: I see the reverse camera, how did you get that to work with the tablet? How does the tablet know when you are in reverse?

A: There were 2 ways to get this to work, one way is by video detection, or the other way is by the JoyCon EXC. I chose to do the video detection way because it was simpler and waiting about one second for the app to open was fine with me. I use an app called EasyCap viewer.

Q: Why is there paper over the JoyCon, EasyCap, USB charger etc.?

A: The plastic pieces over the EasyCap and USB charger were bulky/broken. The JoyCon didn't come with a cover. Paper was the easiest/closest thing I had at the moment. If only I had a 3D printer. Someday..

Q: Why is the mic in the vent and not somewhere else? Doesn't the wind from the HVAC cause problems?

A: It was a last-second add-on and just put it in there without having to rewire the harness. I also didn't know where to move it that made it look "stock". I've gotten some great opinions on where to move it! Thanks for those!

I'll add more common questions here when I think of them.

Breakdown of Parts:

Price | Part
$100 | Nexus 7 2013 32GB WiFi (flo) (bought from /r/hardwareswap)
$5 | Nissan Radio Wiring Harness
$6 | AmazonBasics 4-Port USB 2.0 Hub
$20 | Esky EC135-05 Rearview Camera
$95 | JoyCon EXC
$7 | Tendak OTG USB cable
$30 | Behringer UCA202
$7 | VideoSecu Amplified CCTV Microphone
$25 | Timur's Kernel v4.0 for Nexus 7 2013
$10 | Maxboost Car Charger
Free/Other/Already owned | EasyCap USB Video Capture Card, RCA cables, 3.5mm audio cables, USB cables, 12-16 AWG wire, grinder, zipties, paper, hotglue, other random stuff.
TOTAL COST | ~$305

TL;DR: Modified my Android tablet to work as a replacement for my radio. Worth it? YES. Best Radio Ever.

Have Questions? Ask away. Since I had to learn most this crap on my own, I can share my experience with others and give pointers in the right direction.

EDIT #1: Formatting.

EDIT #2: RIP my inbox. I would never have guessed this would get this popular. I'm just speechless. Wow. Thanks everyone! Trying my best to reply to everyone! Also added another question to this.

u/KoreaKoreaKoreaKorea · 16 pointsr/buildapc

$30 DAC - Link - Please know these aren't game changers, it's only offering better quality sound than your motherboard. If your headphones or speakers aren't that great, it's not doing to do much. Weakest link type of thing. If your headphones suck, these wont help. But if you have a decent set of phones, many people have sworn by these.

$75 DAC - Link - More expensive, better sound output. Again, should be paired with even higher quality sound gear. $100+ speakers/headphones.

$115 DAC - My Dac - Link - I needed a dac with a little power. I use speakers with my setup instead of headphones. This one is 2x25. It's honestly the most anyone should need for a 2.0 system.

$80 Speakers - Link - These are mine. I love them. Best combined $200 I've spent. Instead of a CPU that will need to be replaced in two years, these will out last many builds if I take care of them. The reviews are through the roof compared to the price. And I'd have to agree.

There are a million reviews about the topping DAC + Micca speakers. Things feel more immersive. I think that's the simplest way to put it.

u/DrChiz · 12 pointsr/PKA

Kyle's Setup

Microphone (Shure SM7B) -

That runs into a clean gain booster, Cloudlifter (I didn't know he wasn't running this since he got his Shure in 2014. Once I learned that, I had him get one and he's been running that for about a month and a half now)

Which goes into his mixer:

Now if someone wanted to run this setup, I would say don't get the Behringer, they have problems but most of the time they're fine. But you want to get a Focusrite Scarlett or Mackie Onyx (I recommend the Onyx but they're both fucking great, used both, currently running the Mackie in my new studio setup)

Taylor's Setup

Same exact setup as Kyle, even though I told them to get him this Blue Micrphone TUBE arm:

It's a way better arm. Kyle is using the standard Rode arm & either that's what Taylor's got now or he's using a super cheap ass one. But no way that cheap ass one would work with the Shure's weight, so he probably got a rode. But I recommended they both get the Blue tube arm.

Woody's Setup

Microphone (Electro-Voice RE20):

His preamp/mixer is all in his rack that's mounted with his PC which is down by his knee. I forget what he's using cause it's been many, many years since he built that thing.

The microphone arm he is using is the cadillac of microphone studio boom arms the K&M 23860:


The Shure SM7B and Electro-Voice RE20 are the gold standard for radio and podcast production in studios. You can't go wrong. But if you get the SM7B then you need a pre-amp or something that's going to give you an additional 20-40db of clean gain.

If you don't have that Cloudlifter and just use it with that mixer, then you have to crank the fuck out of the gain which greatly increases and raises your noies floor. So you'll be audible and sound good, but you'll still get lots of white noise/background noise.

In my setup it's the Shure SM7B, Mackie Onyx, Cloudlifter, Blue Mic arm and quality XLR cables. When I plan to expand and add more microphones to do several people in studio productions. I'll create a rack unit VERY similar to what Lefty is currently running. With an electricity conditioner and the same preamp he has that I researched on my own and it's perfect for getting the clean gain added that you need so you don't need the cloud.

u/oddmanero · 12 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

the sm58 is a directional mic, and you need audio cables+audio interface for it (like a focusrite scarlett solo or a behringer um2

the yeti can do 4 different modes, it's got a built-in preamp and it's powered straight off of the USB cable.

different setups for different purposes. i got a yeti but i want a sm57+audio interface to mic up a guitar amp setup

u/MainHaze · 11 pointsr/buildapc

I see a lot of people here recommending great builds, so I don't have anything to add on that from. However, no one here is mentioning the audio interface that will be needed to actually record his music.

There are a lot of different options available for those, and they definitely have a huge range in price. As an audio guy/musician myself, I use the Presonus Audiobox USB for home recording. It has the inputs I need to record with either a mic or by directly plugging in my guitar and using amp plugins.

If he's using large sample libraries, then he'll need a lot of ram. 16gb would be ideal, but he can get by with 8gb. It'll just limit the amount of libraries he can load in one recording session.

Also, I don't know if he already has a Pro Tools license, but that doesn't come very cheap. Currently, a Pro Tools licence goes for pretty much your entire budget (600$). If you want a cheaper solution, I HIGHLY recommend Reaper, which goes for about 10% of what it costs for Pro Tools (60$). I use it both personally and professionally for work and can say with some authority that it's an excellent tool for any kind of audio work that you need to do, be it music, sound design, or even scoring video.

u/grey_rock_method · 10 pointsr/Guitar

I like the Berhinger UMC204HD.

At this pricepoint all the market entries are going to have the same chips inside and similar performance, but the Behringer has the broadest feature set, with 'inserts' and MIDI.

I have two Berhinger interfaces, the UMC404HD and the UFX1204. I'm happy with both.

u/Du6e · 10 pointsr/buildapc

Something like this makes a lot more sense, went with a white / black build.

u/djdementia · 9 pointsr/Android

As a DJ I just died a little bit inside. I sure hope they have a shitty sound system because driving even a halfway decent sound system off a phone is asking for serious trouble.

It will sound like shit, it will be distorted and have a serious lack of bass and high end.

Hope you put that phone in airplane mode, nobody wants to hear your txt message or phone ringing.

Please, I implore you not to do this. At the very least you should have a low end laptop running foobar2000 or something with the auto crossfader and a low end music/dj sound card like this one.

u/Mr_Liney97 · 9 pointsr/Flume

The two ROLI bags belong to the ROLI Seaboard Rise. Awesome, but pricey.

The small item to the left of it is a Teenage Engineering OP-1 Portable Synthesizer.

To the left of it is a audio interface, Scarlett. To me it looks like a 2i2.

Below that is the Arturia BeatStep Pro.

Below the ROLI bags is the Apogee Quartet Audio Interface

And to the left of that is the Yamaha Reface DX

I don't know what the other things are, but I hope that I helped

u/ZeosPantera · 8 pointsr/audio

You are playing too much Aphex Twin.

What you are actually hearing is a classic case of poorly shielded onboard audio hardware and/or poorly grounded hardware. Since pushing on the connector helps that means it is probably the latter. You have to ground the plugs manually by physically adjusting them or soldiering them. Another option is not using your onboard soundcard and getting something like this behringer dac to replace your soundcard and separate your audio from all the bad inside your PC.

u/Rrussell2060 · 8 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

To build a system using the minimum recommendations from this sub, let's start with this diagram:
DAC is optional, so is a subwoofer but I recommend one.

DAC: Behringer UCA202 $29.99 Link:

Amplifier: SMSL SA-50 $68.99 Link:

Subwoofer: Dayton Audio SUB-800 $99.00 Link:

Bookshelf Speakers: Micca MB42X $89.00 Link:

Wire: 16-gauge Speaker Wire $8.00 Link:

With DAC, this cable: Stereo Male to 2 RCA Male $5 Link:

Without DAC, this cable: Monoprice 105597 3-Feet Premium Stereo Male to 2RCA Male $5 Link:

This is a great starter system, I would have loved to had something like this starting out.
All of these pieces can be upgraded, do your research. Look for sales etc. Good luck and have fun.

u/mstassi · 8 pointsr/musicians

Garageband is a good option, since you have a mac. Audacity is free. You can find some other DAW programs for free if you know where to look. I plug my guitars (electric & acoustic) and mic into this interface and it works great for the level of quality I'm looking for. It aint free...but it's relatively cheap as far as recording goes and I'm sure you could find something similar for less if you look.

u/bass-lick_instinct · 8 pointsr/Bass

I've said it before here, and I'll say it again: I think a cheap recording interface and a DAW (Digital Audio Workstation) is one of the most powerful tools for isolating issues, practicing, working through trouble spots, creativity, and more, and you can get started for about $100-$150.

I constantly use my interface and DAW. A very common use for me is to throw down an audio track with a song I'm having problems with, then I'll loop the tough sections and practice them over and over until I nail them. Some DAWs will allow you to adjust your playback speed without affecting the pitch, so if you're trying to tackle a super technical spot in something like YYZ, you can slow playback speed by 50% (or whatever) allowing you to play the song at a slower speed, then as you develop your chops you can increase the speed, ultimately easing yourself into playing the song at full speed.

I also use it for learning songs real fast. I'll start at the beginning of a song and loop the first ~25%, practice until I know it, then loop the next 25% of the song until I know it, etc until I've worked thorugh the whole song and I've found that I internalize songs much faster by doing this. The beauty is that you can lay a track down with virtually anything that can play through your phone (or basically anything with an audio jack). Just lay down a stereo track, hook up your phone to the interface via stereo cable, press record on your DAW and play on your phone.

I have a whole project for the songs I practice, each song has its own track, then below each song's track I have my bass line that I play, which I can then analyze. Recording yourself is like putting a magnifying glass on your playing, you might be surprised. I remember the first time I recorded myself I thought I nailed my part, then when I played it back I was quite humbled, to say the least!

There are tons of ways you can use a recording interface for practicing, but of course you can (and should) also use it for music creation. There are billions of free plugins out there which will work with most DAWs. Just get a cheap $30 MIDI keyboard and you'll have unlimited creative potential that would have cost tens of thousands of dollars to have just a couple decades ago in the analog world.

I personally use a Mackie Onyx Blackjack recording interface, which I would not recommend if you are using Windows (drivers are aging and Mackie doesn't appear to be updating them or supporting newer OSs, which is a shame). For a DAW I use Logic Pro X (only available on OS X), which is the best $200 I've ever spent, but you don't need to spend that (or anything) to get into a DAW. When you buy a recording interface it should come with a basic DAW that will do all the essentials, if you want something real powerful for cheap then try Reaper, which has a trial that doesn't ever cripple the software, and it's only $60 for a license (which you should buy to support the dev if you like it, it's a great piece of software).

For recording interfaces, the Scarlett Focusrite is super popular ($150). You can get decent recording interfaces for a little cheaper, I would just make sure it has at least two channels.

u/chimpanzeeland · 8 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

So assuming that all normal PC components are included (PC, display, keyboard, mouse), as well as monitors or headphones, this is what I'd do:

DAW: Cakewalk by Bandlab [FREE]

  • Having a DAW should really be the first thing you look at. I don't use Cakewalk personally but I've tried it and for the price, it's unbeatable.

    Interface: BEHRINGER UMC22[$59]

  • A very affordable interface with the very good MIDAS preamp. Great value for all of your initial interface needs.

    Mic: Audio-Technica AT2020 [$99]

  • Again, a very affordable, but decent, mic. As it's a large diaphragm condenser, it's extremely versatile and will sound great on everything from guitar to vocals.

    MIDI Controller: Alesis VMini [$49]

  • For the budget, you'd only need a basic midi controller and Alesis is a tried and true brand in this price segment.

    I'd try to get by using as many free VSTs, as well as what's included in Cakewalk. Here's a list of decent free stuff that'd get you started:

    Guitar amp sims: LePuo free collection [FREE]

  • LePou is really the gold standard of free guitar plugins. With a bit of tweaking, they sound great. I'd definitely pair them with the TSE Audio TS-808 tubescreamer (also free).

    Drum sim: MT Power Drum Kit [FREE]

  • A Steven Slate-style drum VST with good samples and a decent groove editor. For the price, you can't go wrong.

    Other plugins:

  • For synths, effects and other plugins, VST4FREE is your friend. They have a great selection of free stuff.

    Assuming your PC is relatively recent and has enough horsepower to run a production suite, and you have monitors/headphones that are fine for mixing, this would be a great place to start out. Also, even after buying extras like cables, mic stands, pop filters etc, I'd say you have about $200-250 left for whatever genre specific stuff you'd want - whether it be a used guitar, a second mic (such as the Shure SM57 [$95]) or a second hand hardware synthesizer, for instance.
u/Beer_Is_So_Awesome · 7 pointsr/audiophile

This question might be better suited for /r/audioengineering .

Who will ask you what the fuck you're doing starting a label to produce cassettes. Nobody has a cassette player anymore. But at least some of the old-timers will probably have the know-how.

As a side note, the Behringer UCA202 (or 222, choose your color) is a really affordable USB interface with line-level RCA inputs and outputs. I use mine as a DAC outputting line-level audio to my headphone amplifier. It sends a nice clean signal and only costs $30. I assume you would take that line-level signal from the stereo RCA outputs and plug it into the input on whatever cassette recorder you wind up with.

u/talkingsmall · 7 pointsr/audioengineering

Haha, yeah welcome to recording things. You're never done spending money.

I just checked the user manual for your current interface, and yeah, you're not going to be able to use that with a condenser mic.

Something like this will work: It's cheap, and probably a little better quality than the Line-6 you're currently using. Presonus makes high quality stuff, and I think for what you're doing, that's about the cheapest you're going to get (feel free to prove me wrong, other people)

Re: your question about phantom power adapters. I don't have any experience with them, but if anyone else does and likes them, it's really up to you.

u/thatonekid57 · 7 pointsr/PostHardcore

If you're looking for a durable, good all-around dynamic mic for recording/performing, I would recommend the SM58.
If you're wanting a condenser mic, I've been using the MXL 770 for a couple years now and it's been great. Do you have an audio interface? If not, the one that I use is the PreSonus AudioBox.

EDIT: Feel free to PM me with any particular questions. I've been in a band for a few years and working on my second CD. Not an expert by any means, but if you have starter questions, I could definitely give you my two cents.

u/mwfisher3 · 7 pointsr/audio

The Behringer UCA-222. It's 30 bucks, acts as a headphone amp as well as a stereo RCA interface with optical out for easy connection to a stereo, mixer, etc. I use mine to plug my laptop into my living room home entertainment system. I never have to worry about a lousy 1/8" to RCA cable breaking or falling out of my computer's headphone jack.

u/wcwouki · 7 pointsr/Bass

The aux in bypasses the preamp and tone adjustments from the amp so you need to adjust the bass with an equalizer app or bass boost app on your phone. One other option I have used is a mini mixer with stereo inputs using the proper cable from your phone to the inputs (probably RCA type) or 1/4" dual mono inputs on the mixer...I have a couple of these cheap Behringer USB 302 for around $50-60 (they used to be around $40 when I bought mine)...
These will allow you to adjust the bass and treble from your phone. Cheers

u/AvidyaZen · 7 pointsr/mindcrack

The headset that broke was the G35 headset from Logitech which goes for about $90 these days. It's a great headset but this would be my 3rd set in 4 years. The mic quality is average and often requires fussing with in post but overall it's a great headset.

While rocking this backup setup I've been using ear buds and I quite like it compared to the closed ear noise cancelling headset so I don't think I want to go the headset route again.

I've always wanted to go the XLR/Mixer route. This would allow me to manipulate any volume/noise issues with the mic on the fly and not touch it at all in post. I never settled on a solution that was afforable and always went with what I knew the G35.

This is the goal. It's not much more expensive than the G35 headset but is the correct tool for the job :Þ

  • Audio-Technica AT2020 XLR ^USB ^version ^exists ^too
  • Behringer Q502USB 5-Channel Mixer
  • XLR Microphone Cable
  • Microphone Suspension Boom

    A few notes about these choices. The 5 channel mixer is total overkill but this one functions as a USB audio interface meaning when you plug it in to your PC it shows up like a USB mic would. Behringer makes a 3 port USB mixer but I don't like the way it looks lol.

    Not all mixers have the ability to function as a USB device. On NON USB mixers you would have to run the output of the mixer into the input on your soundcard on your PC.

    I prefer the audio device approach. You plug your XLR mic into the mixer which is acting as the USB audio device. This allows you to control on the mixer what the computer hears on the audio device interface.

    Totally a long and involved answer but some might find it useful if in the market for audio upgrades :Þ
u/FunnyPocketBook · 7 pointsr/Bass

Focusrite Scarlett Solo/2i2 as audio interface. If you are certain that you're only going to record one thing at a time, the Solo will be sufficient.

I've seen many people recommending Reaper which is the WinRar version of free DAWs (I think?)

u/Licknuts · 7 pointsr/Guitar

Go play at open mics. This is great for networking with other musicians/bands.

You could also get a cheap recording setup, record band demos, and email those to venues. My old band recorded on a laptop from an SM57 going into a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 and we edited/mixed/arranged/exported all the audio through Audacity (free). That's it. Excluding the laptop and mic cables, all this costs around $250 Hell, there's even cheaper alternatives available if you're super strapped for cash.

As for actually finding venues that exist near you, try going to Indie on the move and type in your area and it'll give you all the venues that exist within however big a radius you put.

Hopefully this helps!

u/Meesterwaffles · 7 pointsr/FL_Studio

Your best bet would be an Akai MPK Mini, in that price range, you get pads, switches, knobs, and a keyboard. Can't really beat it for the price, it's also pretty high quality and portable.

u/pipsohip · 7 pointsr/HuntsvilleAlabama

It might be easier to just download Audacity and get an affordable audio interface and mic. Here's what I record with and it sounds great for what I need.

Focusrite Scarlett Solo - $89

Tonor Condensor Mic - $30

XLR Cable - $6

u/LSDoubleD · 7 pointsr/makinghiphop

To be honest, It really depends on what your budget is. If you have a $10,000 budget my recommendations are going to change drastically compared to if you have say, a $400 budget.

Assuming you want to keep price pretty low but still want pretty nice quality I recommend the following.

  • Microphone: Audio-Technica AT2020. It's a good mic for the price and most people start out on something like this or something similar. It delivers a good enough sound that you'll be happy with the results, especially considering how cheap it is.

  • Interface: Focusrite Scarlette Solo, This has kind of become the industry standard for beginner interfaces. It's a clean, simple interface. You hook it up to your computer, plug in your mic, adjust the volume and you're good to go.

  • Software: I personally started on Logic Pro X, If you have a Mac, I HIGHLY recommend it. Fantastic DAW, Arguably the next best thing to the industry's standard which is Pro Tools. Although it doesn't really matter what DAW you use. Most of them do the exact same thing, Just with different work flows.

  • Headsets: This doesn't matter that much. Find a pair of studio reference headphones in your price range and learn them like the back of your hand. Listen to tons of music on them, as much as you can. Some headphones boost certain frequencies and it's important you know what frequencies it's boosting so when you're mixing you dont add too much or too little of said frequency in.

    My one tip to anybody beginning is learn to mix and experiment. You can have a shitty mic and a shitty interface, but if you can mix well, You can make 90% of things sound at least decent and that's all that really matters in music. If you make a song that's a banger but it's not mixed that great, people will still listen to it. If you have a shitty song that's mixed by a world class engineer, nobody is going to listen to it. Don't get caught up in making sure everything sounds amazing, Just work and be creative.
u/YarrJay · 6 pointsr/ft86


  • Nexus 7 2013 w/ Timur's kernel (still in closed beta - open for donors)
  • Custom 3d printed housing
  • Alpine KTP-445U 4-channel Power Pack Amplifier
  • USB OTG Cable - Modified to fit
  • DC-DC Converter
  • Behringer UCA202 USB DAC
  • Bluetooth OBD2 Adapter - For getting real-time data into the Torque app
  • Add-a-fuse
  • Ground loop isolator ** Item still needs to be tested. This was purchased to hopefully eliminate a popping noise i get when first powering on the system

    Must Have Apps

  • GMD Gesture Control - Since i have no physical volume control buttons anymore GMD gesture control allows me to setup custom gestures like a 2-finger swipe to access volume control.

    Very excited to be ~95% complete with the install. A couple things left:

  • pull out the double-din housing i made and put the top on it which also includes a fan
  • address a 'popping' sound when turning on the system. possibly caused by the amp turning on before everything else? still seeking a solution here

    More than happy to try to answer questions for anyone else looking to do the same thing. Very happy with the outcome thus far.
u/l1788571 · 6 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Swan D1010-IV powered bookshelves cannot be best for under $70:

Monoprice's basic 8" powered sub is just $60 right now:

So, at this point you should still have around $60 left to work with. I would recommend spending that on some kind of external DAC; pretty much anything will be an upgrade over the onboard outputs from your motherboard. This unit from Behringer is well-regarded and gets the job done for $30:

Grab two of these RCA splitters from Monoprice; you'll use them to split the one set of left and right outputs from the DAC into two, to route each to both the Swans and there sub:

Grab a couple sets of these RCA cables to run from the splitters, to both the Swans and the sub (they're available in 6, 12, and 25 feet; get whatever you need to reach, probably 6 for the Swans and maybe 12 for the sub):

Let me know if you have any other questions (hooking things up, etc), or would like further recommendations. Enjoy!

u/Smutquery · 6 pointsr/linux

I've used a Behringer UCA-202 on Fedora 19, Fedora 20, and Debian Wheezy. It's always been a plug-and-play affair. It has a headphone jack and is reasonably priced.

It sounds good to boot.

u/metafizikal · 6 pointsr/audiophile

Best answer is probably/maybe. Here are some options at different price points:

$30 UCA202

$76 FiiO E10K

$100 Modi 2

$150 ODAC

u/broken_cogwheel · 6 pointsr/audio

Behringer UCA202 - This is what I use with my laptop.

Fucking excellent.

u/thepensivepoet · 6 pointsr/Guitar

Ableton is a great DAW and is my preferred software choice for recording/editing.

You can use the TASCAM to capture your performances and transferring those .wav files into Ableton for editing but you'll have a much better experience recording directly into your computer.

You can go a few different routes here. You can pick up an audio interface that accepts an XLR connection for a proper microphone like a Presonus Audiobox and an SM57 which will allow you to capture as good a single channel signal as you can really get outside of a big recording studio.

OR you can go with something cheaper like a Blue Snowball USB microphone. These things actually sound surprisingly good and have multiple settings for directional and omni modes for different situations.

Once you have a way of capturing audio directly into Ableton you can start building up your songs layer by layer. Experiment with things like EQ and compression/delay/etc to make your guitar tracks sound nicer. There are built in patched in Ableton for EQ like "Acoustic Guitar" or "Electric Guitar" and just dragging one of those onto your channel will be a great place to start.

That's a skill in and of itself but you have to start somewhere so start experimenting.

When starting out applying EQ to tracks I'd start this way :

  • Solo the track so you're only listening to the single layer

  • Create a single EQ filter with a high Q value so it creates a really sharp and thin "peak" and drag it upwards so it's amplifying a very narrow band of frequencies quite a bit.

  • Drag that "peak" left and right while the audio is playing and listen for something that jumps out at you as unpleasant. Now drag the peak DOWN to bring those frequencies down in the mix to remove whatever harshness you discovered. Bring down the Q value to make that trough a bit wider and smoother.

    Do that 3 or 4 times on a channel and you'll have something that sounds a bit nicer. If you do too much it'll sound hollow and empty so make subtle adjustments as much as possible. Don't dump that "bad frequency" all the way to the bottom, just bring it down a little bit so it doesn't jump out at you.

    You won't be creating drastically new tones this way, just polishing them so they sound nicer.

    Having a good pair of headphones or even some inexpensive studio monitors will also be extremely helpful so you can accurately hear what you're producing.

    Use the built-in metronome and record with headphones (so the click doesn't get picked up by the microphone) to keep things tight.

    Once you've finished your audio and it's how you like it THEN film your video and just play along with the click. Don't use any audio from the video recording and just pair the two back up in editing.
u/slightly_drifting · 6 pointsr/Guitar

Here, use this. There is NO reason you should be going into the line in on your pc for Christ's sake. It's got such low headroom you'll clip almost always. This setup doesn't come with a mic, but you can plug your guitar into it and get a cheap condenser mic on craigslist. If you're playing acoustic guitar and singing, then just buy this usb mic. Good luck!

Edit:The term you were looking for was "interface", not "preamp", which is why you got solutions that aren't going to work well.

u/exscape · 6 pointsr/Guitar

With a sound card made for studio usage, lag/latency shouldn't be a major issue. Some basic knowledge is required to set it up, but that same knowledge is required for any sort of computer-based recording, so it's easy to come by these days! There's tons of materials about this online, but I'll write a brief summary (not to be considered a tutorial!).
(I'm assuming Windows usage here. For Macs, the default sound card may be good enough -- it was in my 2006 and 2011 Macbook Pros. Apple's Core Audio API is really good for a OS stock one!)

You need a sound card (or: "audio interface") with good ASIO drivers. In practice, that means one that is designed for studio use. That doesn't have to mean anything very expensive, though. The cheapest ones are about $100-120, but a pretty decent one is probably more like $180.
A few examples:
FocusRite Scarlett 2i2 (a 2nd generation is on the way, so I wouldn't recommend this right now. Also, I returned my Scarlett 2i4 due to having issues.)
Roland Quad Capture (the one I use personally)
Presonus AudioBox 22VSL

The sound card you already have might work well enough with the ASIO4ALL driver, in which case you may be able to use the hardware you already have.

Once you have one of those, you install the drivers and set up the ASIO latency or buffer size (different names, same thing) to some low value. You might have to tweak this -- having too low a value will cause dropouts as the computer doesn't have time to apply effects and so on before it's time to move the sound to the speakers.

With that in place, there are a few ways to go. You need some sort of effects (like amplifiers, cabinets, delays, EQs and so on); the easy way to do this is to use some package. I mostly use Guitar Rig for this, but there are plenty of others, such as AmpliTube and Peavey ReValver. There are fully free options as well, e.g. the LePou plugins.

You can use those in several ways. The simplest would be to use a simple audio editor, like Audacity. Another way would be to use a DAW (Digital Audio Workstation), i.e. an application used for recording music, with tracks and mixers.
I use REAPER for that, as it's about $60 and I still prefer it to ones that cost ten times as much. Other popular choices are Cubase, Logic (Mac), Pro Tools, and so on.

So, yeah, it's a bit of an involved process... but once you're there, the main difference between playing for fun (to a track or by yourself) and recording an album is clicking the record button before you start playing. :)
As for cost, that really varies. If you're lucky and your sound card works well with ASIO4ALL (or you have a Mac and that works well), you can do this for free. If you need to buy a sound card and want to use the software legally, you might have to pay a few hundred bucks for the combo.

u/skujaster · 6 pointsr/singing

Sure! I have a Scarlett 2i4 audio interface, although you could probably do the same with the Scarlett 2i2, Scarlett Solo, or most other audio interfaces. I then set the direct monitor to "mono", and turn the knob all the way to "input". Then I just plug in my mic (SM57), plug in my headphones (ATH-M50x), adjust the gain on the mic input and adjust the headphone output, and since it isn't being processed by the computer, its a virtually 0ms latency direct audio.

u/d_troy · 6 pointsr/audio

Scarlett is known for making pretty good mic pre-amps for a reasonable price. I've used their 2i2 interface before, but the solo would solve your needs as well:

u/Blueman826 · 6 pointsr/Bass

What they are using is an interface, a DAW and possibly an amp simulator on their computer.Basically an interface is a box that you plug your instrument or mic into that goes into your computer. It turns the analog signal of the instrument or mic into digital information that the computer can read. These can be worth a hundred dollars to thousands of dollars depending on your needs.

The bass signal would then have to go into an amp simulator for the direct input signal to be heard like it's played through an amp. These amplify and change your signal just like an amp would do, providing a full sound for your guitar/bass. These are can be worth anything from 0 dollars to a couple hundred and each has its own sound and quality.

DAW stands for Digital Audio Workstation and allows your instrument or mic to be recorded along with other tracks and instruments. These allow you to record songs and covers but also allow you to use tons of effects including compressors and eqs, amp sims and midi instruments.If you simply want to play and/or record your bass through your computer I'd recommend getting a simple 1 input interface like a Steinberg UR12 or a Focusrite Scarlett Solo. The Focusrite would have a higher quality build and sound, but the Steinburg will still get the job done. A great DAW would be REAPER, as it is completely free to use but will request a licensing of $60 that you do not have to pay. And there are tons of great free amp simulators online, but there are some really nice amp sims for a bit of money. I'd suggest checking out This list of free sims and checking out the other paid amp sims including Bias Fx and Amplitube.

Good Luck!

u/SinisterHumanoid · 6 pointsr/pcmasterrace

ATH-M50x's with brainwavz pads since the stock ones are thin and will fall apart after a year of heavy use. And a ModMic. - $150~ - $30~ - $50~

Of course if you already have a mid the ModMic isn't needed. OR for just twice the price cut the second cord attached to your skull and get an AT2020 and even a Scarlett Solo for the best sound possible. - $100~ - $100~

u/Silaryia · 6 pointsr/skyrimmods

If anyone's curious about getting an XLR setup, I can direct you to some pretty good starting gear! I personally use the Audio Technica AT2020 cardiod condensor microphone and a Focusrite USB audio interface. You'll also want to buy a male to female XLR cable of some kind. A pop filter is also a good investment! And, of course, you'll want a stand of some kind for the microphone. I personally use this but it limits your ability to move the microphone away from a desk.

If you want studio quality, be sure to record in 24-bit 48k, with an uncompressed format like a wav. That's the standard both Hollywood and indie productions have been using for years.

Oh, and if anyone's curious about credentials, I mix and record audio for commercials.

u/deandimarzo · 6 pointsr/audioengineering

You really, really need an interface. The built-in soundcard isn't quite up to snuff when it comes to audio input, and as /u/despicable_secret mentioned, condenser mics need 48V of phantom power to function correctly.

The most popular option is the Focusrite Scarlett Solo, but just about any of these will do the trick.

u/BeardedAlbatross · 5 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Adding to this, if his source is a PC then pick up This, a pair of TRS cables and you should be fine budget-wise.

u/fasterflame21 · 5 pointsr/FL_Studio

Best thing you can do for a guitar sound is get a guitar. I spent weeks trying to get a good guitar sound while using a keyboard, and the best thing you can do is get the real thing. You don't need anything fancy, but a Lexicon Alpha and a guitar with humbucker pickups will do wonders for you.

That being said, it all depends on your goal. What kind of music are you wanting this guitar sound for?

u/DublinBen · 5 pointsr/headphones

The best portable, closed headphones are the Sennheiser HD 25-1 II which are only $175 right now. They will block out significant amounts of outside noise, and keep your music to yourself. Being professional headphones, they are very durable and can be easily repaired.

What you're asking for in a USB connection is going to require a separate DAC. That is a whole separate issue, and you can easily spend another $100 on that alone. This $24 Behringer unit would probably be the cheapest one worth trying.

u/BangsNaughtyBits · 5 pointsr/podcasts

A full setup that will record four local mics, max, or two local mics and a Skype caller. A choice of mics.

Behringer UMC404HD interface for $100 (needs a USB cable I think)

Behringer HA400 headphone amp for $25

Needs two TRS 1/4" stereo cables, one for the headphone amp and one for Skype. $10

Behringer XM1800S three pack of good enough mics for $40

or a slightly better Behringer XM8500 at $20 each

or a very nice Blue enCORE 100 at $60

A couple 9-foot XLR cables for $12 or vary as you see fit

On-Stage, desk stand for $13 (lots of options)

You need some RCA to 1/4" TS cables. Technically two though there are reasons up to four and this six pack is cheap at $8. Wish they were shorter.

or you can get by with one of these.

and my personal favorite, the UCA202 for $30

This gives you full Skype access to the other rig for Two local mics.


u/Mshenay · 5 pointsr/headphones

Honestly, If I were in your shoes, I'd grab a BEHRINGER UCA 202 along with a Beyer Dyanmic DT 880 Pro 250 ohm, with a Schiit Vali 2

Upgrading from the DT 880 is difficult to do, as it's very neutral. You can compliment it with something like a Senn HD 650, but for less money you can just swap a Mullard Tube into your Schiit Vali 2, and then if and when you want more, you can easily upgrade the Dac, as the DT 880 will scale nicely!

u/basics · 5 pointsr/audiophile

The same company makes an 8" or 10" powered sub that is usually recommended with these speakers. The sub itself is around $80-$90 iirc, so it would be difficult to get something under $100 total.

Also note that these speakers require an amplifier.... which will drive your total cost up a bit.
If you need an amp, you could look at

You could always add in a cheap USB DAC (digital to analog converter) such as
To bypass your sound card (your sound card has a DAC built in, but its probably shit).

As far as needing the sub, it really depends on what kind of sound you want. I would recommend getting the 2.0 (just speakers) first, and adding a sub (bringing you to a 2.1 system) if you feel like the bass is lacking.

I have those two speakers, without a sub, and I am very pleased with them.

These speakers are frequently recommended for people looking for the best sound at a low budget.

u/FavorMusik · 5 pointsr/audiophile
u/R-A-S-0 · 5 pointsr/Guitar

You'll want a USB Audio Interface - something like this and a good set of headphones. Since you're using a Mac, you'll have access to GarageBand; grab the BIAS FX free trial for Amp + FX sims and load it as a plugin with GarageBand. You should be able to get a pretty nice setup for less than £100.

Edit: You can record in GarageBand just by pressing the 'r' key or by clicking the record button.

u/TheImmortalLS · 5 pointsr/headphones

I tried using my nexus 5 with a usb-otg cable that allows charging and usb-dac/amp

it's unnecessarily complicated, and a headphone jack is the sane choice, preferably a good one like the lg v10 has.

u/grandzooby · 5 pointsr/audiobooks

I still sometimes buy books on cassette - some older books are only available that way. And somehow it seems more fitting to hear and old-time book with old-timey tape hiss and frequency response.

I picked up a couple old cassette decks from a thrift store and use a decent digitizer ( to record them to flac/mp3.

In fact, here's a bash script (I'm a Linux user) that I wrote to record sides of tape to flac:


cat << EOF
usage: $0 [Filename Base] [Tape Number] [Tape Side] [optional DURATION (default=60 minutes)]

Record from the ALSA hardare hw:1,0 (USB Audio) to a FLAC file.

$0 War_and_Peace 1 A (record 45 minutes to 01-A_War_and_Peace.flac)
$0 War_and_Peace 1 B 60 (record 60 minutes to 01-B_War_and_Peace.flac)


if [[ -z $1 ]]
exit 1

get command line arguments

TITLE=$1<br />
TAPENUM=$(printf %02d $2)<br />
TAPESIDE=$3<br />

DURATION=$(( 45 60 )) # 45 minutes 60 seconds

if [[ -n $4 ]]
DURATION=$(( $4 * 60 ))

OUTFILE=$(printf %s%s-%s.flac $TAPENUM $TAPESIDE $TITLE)

avconv -f alsa -ac 2 -ar 44100 -i hw:1,0 -t $DURATION -y $OUTFILE

Of course, that's hard-coded to my audio setup (hw:1,0 in the last line).

One example of something I could only get on cassette was Asimov's The Complete Robot.

u/junglizer · 5 pointsr/DJs

I use one of these:;amp;sr=8-1

Nothing super special, but it sounds good and gets the job done. Just use it on booth/record out of your mixer.

u/hadapurpura · 5 pointsr/audioengineering

I'm a singer (both lyrical and pop) and I wanna start recording myself at home. I wanna make demos and write songs (since I don't play instruments and only know the most basic music theory, I have to record). I also have a very, very limited budget (I'll get a freeware DAW). I do have a "mic": this beauty, and I wanna improve my situation, because while I'm not starting a pro studio or anything right now, I do want my voice to sound as good and accurate as possible.

My sister is in the States right now on vacation, so I can tell her what to buy me, but I have to do it soon, and I don't know what's best within my budget.

I'm overwhelmed. I don't know if I should get a USB mic (like a Samson C01, Snowball, ATR2500, Yeti, etc...), a cheap XLR mic with an icicle, or a cheap DAW interface like this with a cheap condenser. I'm not even familiar with the brands or anything, so I don't know which is better, and virtually all reviews I've seen are geared towards podcasting or things like that. What would you recommend me?

u/[deleted] · 5 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Ok so here's a small list, don't know how much you have but here's a kind of good budget setup.

u/MyOpus · 5 pointsr/singing

Couple things... first, add POWER to your lower register. You got very muffled and flat when you dropped down, a good example is around 0:40. Watch a few videos on budgeting your breath to help sustain you when you drop down.

You have a few pitch issues, especially around 0:30 "everybody look to your right" the everybody was off. There were a few more like that as well. A good exercise for this is arpeggios.... learn them, sing them, love them :) They will help an aspiring singer a ton.

Finally, if you're serious, and since you're putting yourself out here for critique I assume you are, go ahead an invest in a good microphone and an interface so you can record yourself better. You can do it on the cheap with something like an AT2020 and a small Focusrite for around $200'ish. It will really make a difference.

You have some uniqueness to your voice, which is what everyone looks for, and you're already taking steps to improve and learn which means you accept criticism which is crucial if you're going to do anything in music... so good for you and keep working at it!

u/iMakeSoundFX · 5 pointsr/gamedev


My gear is easily affordable (except a few choice pieces being the studio monitors and the PC itself).

I use a Focusrite Saffire Pro 40 - Which is overkill for recording, but I have other projects that involve a lot more inputs. The Focusrite Scarlett is more than adequate for this kind of work.

For my Mic, I use a [Rode NT2A] (;amp;qid=1415053266&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;keywords=) for the bulk of the recording, I have a few smaller Clip on mics for some more sensitive recording.

For my electronic audio samples, I use a [Alesis QX61] (;amp;qid=1415053433&amp;amp;sr=8-7&amp;amp;keywords=Alesis+Q) which for this kind of work is not necessary at all.

As for Software, this can get a little expensive but I've built this up over the years, I use Ableton Live 9 and a list of plugins to extensive to name, but 90% of the recorded samples have been edited very little, and if they have, the default suite plugins are more than adequate (EQ, Reverb etc).

I only really have to dig into specialist plugins when looking to create a certain effect - such as space, etc.

u/Taupter · 5 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Behringer UMC22 is US$48 on Amazon. It will do.

Behringer Uphoria UMC204HD is the best bang for the buck. If you can save some more money you can get it for US$80.

u/ranterbach · 5 pointsr/ZReviews

Behringer UMC22

$60, plug and play (no driver fuckery that some people encounter with Scarlett), front 1/4" for headphones and rear L/R 1/4" for use as a preamp with powered speakers.

u/TheRoyalGodfrey · 5 pointsr/hiphopheads

I'd say just mess around with chopping things up

i'd say buy a small MIDI keyboard (something like this or this) to start off and just play around with stuff. A lot of it is learning music theory and different chord progressions

u/mids187 · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

get a audio interface with xlr outputs or 1/4 outputs. Also your're gonna wanna get balanced outputs.

u/Owl_Bear_Snacks · 5 pointsr/synthesizers

Well, you have a massive leg up on a lot of people in terms of music theory and chops. I'm going to assume you can read a fake book, a chart and are probably a better player than me. Jazz especially will align with composition, voicing and other stuff. Even though classical gives chops, I think (without explicit work) it leads to something that synths or production might not use.

The good thing is, it's not as much practice. It's a lot of toying around, reading and learning. But it's not like playing. You see the opposite problem with people that make a lot of noise but then want to start on composition or music theory. They have all this gear but they don't finish stuff. That's fine for some, just fool around but then there's not much growth. That's pretty much the end game. So what you're going to discover is a universe of TIMBRE. New sounds that are very dynamic. Modulation, timber over time. The problem is, a lot of this stuff won't exercise your chops. Maybe that's ok with you.

Do you have a DAW or a computer to record with? The cheapest way for almost anything is software. U-he makes great plugins and they have Hive as an intro synth. It's no toy either. It just has "
"accessible" priorities. They are releasing a new version soon so maybe wait on that. You're going to need a VST host to go that route. Maybe you have something already. Reaper is free to try. And you'll need a sound card. Almost anything is fine. Behringer has a cheap USB thing for $130:

That'd be fine for a while. You'll want to upgrade it if you want to improve recording sound and/or complexity in projects (latency).

Barebones for a software synth:

  • midi keyboard for input, you'd probably want 61+ keys for two hands
  • a computer
  • a DAW program like Reaper (free to try forever), $60 to buy it
  • a synth like Hive
  • a soundcard

    Otherwise, you could go hardware. In which case, getting the Korg Minilogue is a great intro synth. It only has four voices which might be frustrating. It would teach you the basics of oscillators, filters and ADSR envelopes. Almost anything synth will (including software). If you want more voices, maybe an 8 voice Korg prologue.

    Flying Lotus and Jon Hopkins is more about production and layering in which case you probably want to learn a DAW pretty well. That's heavily produced and processed music which might not have a lot to do with "the synth". The sound you're after might be many layers of drums and effects. Hard to say. You'll need to learn plugins, mixing and how to work quickly.

    For playing with a live band, I'd only use a hardware synth.

    Another way to practice textures and having control over it is something like this.

  • Make a laser sound. It would be used in a sci-fi movie.
  • Make an ocean wave.
  • Make a bass drum and a bad sounding snare drum. Now make a decent electronic hi-hat.
  • Now find a gif (meaning silent) on the internet and layer many new sounds to create a sound effect track to go along with it. It might be footsteps with breathing and keys jingling.

    That's kind of the practice type material/goals you might take on. Then making "that bass sound you heard" is going to be way easier. There's also another synth subreddit /r/synthrecipes/ where people ask for tips on things they heard. I don't know much about that subreddit. Hope this helps ... ask questions ...
u/SirClaytonBigsby · 5 pointsr/buildapc

This build will be adequate for music production, although just barely. Like others have said, an outboard audio interface that connects by USB is one of the most important components for an audio production PC (definitely cut that asus xonar sound card). this focusrite Scarlett series is an immensely popular choice;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1491756709&amp;amp;sr=1-2&amp;amp;keywords=audio+interface I would also recommend the behringer umc hd series as being much better value at the $99 price point (this is what I just replaced my ancient audio interface with);amp;qid=1491757010&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=umc404hd The audio interface will allow you to 100% bypass the motherboards audio chipset and will provide far higher quality and much more routing options than any onboard audio chipset can claim.

I wouldn't cut anything from this parts list. If you running even a few different VST's in ableton you may come to find the mechanical drive insufficient to allow you to smooth play back of instruments. An 250-500gb SSD would be a likely future upgrade for this build that would tangibly improve performance.

Also, if an audio interface is outside your budget, I would simply wait on buying one. Depending on what your doing in Ableton you might not find it essential right off the bat. Its not like its gonna affect your warping or timestretching ;)

u/gutie5 · 5 pointsr/musicproduction

This is the one I use and it works really well, would definitely recommend for a first audio interface. BEHRINGER U-PHORIA UMC202HD, 2-Channel (

u/brandon7s · 5 pointsr/Guitar

It's your audio interface, or rather, your lack of an audio interface. Crackling in audio like you're experiencing is due to the ASIO drivers and your soundcard not being able to keep up with the bitrate to play back your audio without dropping data packets.

Audio interfaces that will fix your problem and let you play at much lower latency aren't expensive.

If you really want to spend as little as possible then you can get this Berhinger interface at just over $50, but I recommend spending the extra $20 or so and getting this Steingerb UR12. I use the 2-input version (UR22) and it's been great.

u/the-igloo · 5 pointsr/singing

He's 16, so this advice is probably somewhat less relevant to him than it is for most people who ask this kind of question, but I'll give the advice anyways because everyone else seems to be suggesting normal things a singer wants.

When buying a gift for a hobbyist, one of the riskiest decisions you can make is buying them something they might need for their hobby. First of all, odds are they already own it or something like it that they prefer (singing/being 16 doesn't fit very well with this advice, but bear with me). Second of all, even if they don't, it's better to let them pick it out. Consider a grandparent buying a Lego set for a grandkid. Odds are, the grandkid knows exactly what they want, so the best possible scenario for a grandparent guessing and choosing has the same outcome as the normal scenario for just giving the money straight to the kid.

Obviously, gift-giving is usually more sentimental than that, so there's an art and a nuance to it better than just "take some cash, go see a Star War", but I'd say actually buying them something you think they might need is categorically worse than either giving them something personal that will affect them in other ways (unrelated to the hobby -- something you know as much or more about than they do) or just a gift card or cash or similar.

In this case, 40 € probably won't go far. A microphone might be the obvious choice (assuming he doesn't already have one), but it will either be sufficiently low quality it will be worse than his phone or a computer, or it will require other equipment (speakers and/or an audio interface) which he probably doesn't have and will cost more than that. It's probably safest to look outside of the realm of music-making, but if you do want to get him something related to singing, your gift could be taking him to the music shop and buying something he wants, or just giving him a gift card to an online store so he can save up for something bigger like an audio interface and microphone combo.

Just my two cents as a hobbyist who sees a lot of well-intentioned but practically guaranteed-to-misfire advice out there. =)

If I had to give an exact product (or product type) recommendation and if he's technically inclined and wants to record, I might recommend a cheap MIDI piano. Something like this, maybe. This will allow him to plug the keyboard into his computer and use GarageBand or another DAW to actively create recorded music.

u/Keshaluvr887 · 5 pointsr/synthesizers

I'm guessing you mean hardware, but there are some fantastic software synths out there. 80's pop music is largely made from FM synthesis, which is completely out of your price range for hardware.

Dexed is modeled after a series of popular Yamaha FM synths and is free

FM8 is a top-tier software alternative

If you really want hardware, the Microbrute is a good option. They're great, some people on this sub hate on them for no good reason. If you watch studio tours of famous electronic musicians the Minibrute is probably the most common instrument in them.
Microbrutes are capable and fun. They're also pretty much one knob per function which is particularly good for beginners.

Another option is the Waldorf Streichfett
This synth was designed to emulate 70's and 80's synth pop sounds and falls into your price range nicely. It does not come with a keyboard, however, so you'd have to get one of those (small ones are really cheap/easy to find) or play it with your computer.

I'd go with the Streichfett. And this or this;amp;qid=1454053448&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=mini+midi+keyboard but used so it's a bit cheaper. That should be close to $300.

u/TexasThrowDown · 5 pointsr/audioengineering

Being an IT professional sometimes this sub's acronyms confuse the hell out of me. That said, has he looked into a Scarlett solo? It's what I use at home. It's technically an interface, but is powered over USB and is great if you only have 1-2 inputs. It's also pretty small and could easily fit into a backpack or messenger bag (really anything with pockets). May not be exactly what he's looking for, but it sounds like it might fit the bill.;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1483738306&amp;amp;sr=1-1&amp;amp;keywords=scarlett+solo+second+gen

u/beefqeef · 5 pointsr/WorldofTanks

If you're willing to spend a decent chunk of money on a sound card, don't. Get an external DAC- it does the same as a sound card but is further isolated from interference in your computer. Some also have built in volume controls and mute buttons.

I use a Scarlett Solo with audiotechnica M50X headphones.

This is a good small DAC.
FiiO E10K Headphone Amplifier and DAC

And this is one which I use.
Focusrite Scarlett Solo 2nd Gen 2 in 2 Out USB Audio Interface

Edit: It's not worth it unless you have a good quality headphone set. I would recommend the audiotechnica M40 or M50 headphones for very good quality at low prices compared to other brands.

u/ingeniousclown · 5 pointsr/letsplay

This is one of the best entry-level audio interfaces you can get for the money. It might seem expensive, but trust me if you buy a 30 dollar Behringer U-Phoria you're going to get some nasty static noise because those things are garbage.

With that, if you're already breaking the bank, you can get a relatively cheap microphone that will sound reasonably good compared to the snowball, and then you can upgrade later on.

Also, what do you mean by "sound like I'm in a cave"? Perhaps your issue is something else... like a poorly treated room?

u/LuminescentMoon · 5 pointsr/singing

Good audio interfaces (like the Scarlett Solo) have a switch to directly monitor the audio from the mic (aka, it would feed it directly back to the headphones with 0 latency). Other than that, it's 100% your mic's quality.

If you're going microphone shopping, look for condenser mics instead of dynamic ones. Dynamic mics are more suitable for live performances (on stage) since they're vastly more durable than condenser mics but they're nowhere near as accurate as condensers.

u/_fuma_ · 5 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

The easiest way is to get an entry level pro-audio USB interface like a Focusrite Scarlett Solo (which has a 24bit 192KHz DAC built in).

u/yoitsmeab · 5 pointsr/Guitar

I use a mic to an interface to my laptop, which is the standard route.

For the mic, I use an sm57 for higher volume stuff (if you ask any musician what mic they would use if they could only have one mic for general recording, 80% will say an sm57). For lower volume stuff, I use a large diaphram condenser mic (requires phantom power)

For my interface, I have an old Tascam 1800 (it has 16 inputs, I used to use it to record percussion and orchestral parts.

For software I use Cubase and Reaper. Cubase is expensive and difficult and I kind of hate it but it works really well once you figure it out. Reaper is free and fairly simple to use.

This is a fantastic less expensive interface for recording guitar

This is the Shure sm57 microphone

Link to Reaper's site

Link to Cubase's site

Best of luck!!!

u/theknyte · 5 pointsr/recordingmusic

The go to interface for that price range is the Focusrite Scarlett

u/sexyfail · 4 pointsr/ableton

I had good experiences with my Lexicon Alpha unit.

u/tek_fox212800 · 4 pointsr/FL_Studio

Happy Cake Day duder! Here are my suggestions!

Under 100$

[Lexicon Alpha](

Scarlett Solo

Tascam US-32

Over 100

Scarlett 2i2

M Audio M Track Plus

Steinberg UR22

Personally, I use the UR22, mainly because I need the Midi in/out for my outboard synths, and the d-pre amps are quite nice for basic mics. I work for a music shop, and our best seller is the UR22. However, any of these interfaces would work well with FL Studio, and you would not be displeased with any of them. Let me know which one you get, dude! Cheers!

Ninja Edit - Stay away from Behringer, Gemsound, Pyle, and Pyramid. They are low cost, but have poor quality builds, poor converters, latency issues, and a myriad of other problems. Also, if you need multiple inputs and mixing capabilities down the line, I suggest these;;amp;qid=1412271070&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=yamaha+mixer;amp;qid=1412271058&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=yamaha+interface

u/fuimani · 4 pointsr/audiophile

That's almost certainly your GPU causing some interference. A cheap, surefire way to fix that would be to grab an external DAC, like the one in the UCA202.

u/tcooling · 4 pointsr/buildapc

These Swan M10's are meant to be quite good, you could use the spare cash to buy a cheap DAC.

An even better option that is very upgradeable is this selection of components for just over your budget at ~$170.

Another option is M-Audio Studiophile AV40.

Just a word of warning, try to stay away from any speakers that are marketed as for "gamers". An example of this are Logitech (although the more expensive 5.1 setups are know to be fairly good).

Good luck!

u/Bottomonium · 4 pointsr/ZeosReviews

Hi Zeos,

Which combination would you recommend?


u/noiserr · 4 pointsr/Amd

EMI interference is a pain. It's impossible to test all the combinations of motherboard and GPUs.

One thing you could try is moving the GPU to a different PCIE slot.

Or you could just get an external DAC, these are really good for the price and will beat most any onboard audio:;amp;psc=1

u/explosivo563 · 4 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

A dac, possibly (depending on your source). An amp, definitely skip. Unless you plan on getting more detailed or power hungry cans in the near future. I'd be more worried about your source files at this point. And if you are curious about an entry level dac, the behringer uca202 is like $20-30. I still use mine to rip vinyl and connect optical to my receiver.;amp;qid=1505704590&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;amp;keywords=Uca202&amp;amp;dpPl=1&amp;amp;dpID=41IUcFvupvL&amp;amp;ref=plSrch

And black friday is just around the corner.

u/nistco92 · 4 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Mixxx's wiki about this subject

X-Session Controller

USB soundcard for master output

Use your regular headphone out on your laptop for cueing.

u/triple_platinum · 4 pointsr/audio

Not sure what perspectives you are looking for but here are my thoughts. :)

I am more on the Pro Audio/recording side of things but you can run the music from anything that plays YouTube and get a mic/interface that can be plugged into any pro system. (Your living room setup can become a karaoke machine)

The standard mic for live is a Shure SM58 which is not too expensive. Then you can get a used audio interface to run the sound from your computer. For example the PreSonus AudioBox USB. Granted, you would need speakers but could plug into your current home Audio system or buy a bundled system with a mic, interface, and speakers, etc.

The advantage of using the computer is you can easily record her singing! Just another route to consider, although I suppose the appeal to a machine is simplicity and having it all in one box.

u/General_Annoyance · 4 pointsr/buildapc

I'm /u/whitefeather14's friend. If it's solely for headphones and you're not looking to spend a lot, then I would strongly recommend something by Fiio. I have an older one, the FiiO E7. They don't sell this one anymore, but they have a newer one called the FiiO E70k. I haven't personally used it, but I can only assume it's like mine but better.

If it's a little more than you want to spend, then I'd look at the Q1. I've heard good things about these as well.

These are nice, because they double as a USB dac and a portable headphone amplifier. Which means if you're traveling or something you can plug your phone into it and still get the amplifier out of it, no need for a USB source.

If that doesn't interest you, then there's the FiiO K1, which is just a USB DAC, and does not have an analog 3.5mm input, only the micro USB.

Now, understand that any of these aren't going to be the greatest DAC ever. Sub $100 is pretty cheap for a DAC, and I'm pretty sure these are all 24-bit, with 32-bit being more or less the best you can get (There's some debate on whether or not you can hear a difference, but that's entirely a different conversation.)

If you do want something a little more pricey and nice, the Schiit Modi DAC and Magni amp are really quite nice. They also have a Amp/DAC combination for $80 which I haven't heard anything about, but Schiit is pretty good.

The one /u/whitefeather14 said is a PreSonus AudioBox USB. You probably don't want this, as it is primarily an audio interface for recording instruments and microphones, and isn't a dedicated DAC, though the DAC is pretty nice, and as a bonus has a 1/4in headphone out as well as two 1/4in outs for L/R powered speakers, such as studio monitors, if that's of any benefit for you.

As for the SMSL one you posted, I have also heard good things about that one, though it's a desktop unit and does not have an analog 3.5mm input.

Let me know if you have any questions, I'm happy to help.

u/pigz · 4 pointsr/Guitar

&gt;don't see a guitar input

There's a 1/4" mono input in the centre of the XLR.

That behringer unit is prettly limited, especially getting the audio back out of the PC to your monitors. Line OR USB, instead of line and USB.

In your price range, better choices would be M-Audio MTrack Plus, or MTrack 2, Focusrite Scarlett or Presonus Audiobox

They all come with some form of 'Lite' DAW software as well.

u/ShreddyZ · 4 pointsr/buildapc

I was referring to something like the Akai. While you can record a midi keyboard using just a usb cable, you'll need some sort of interface to record signals from your microphone. I suggested a pci device because you're building a pretty badass rig, and pci devices are much faster/have better latency/have more inputs and outputs than usb or firewire devices. However, they're also usually quite expensive. Plus, if you're only going to be recording with one microphone, you really don't need all that nonsense. For this reason, I highly recommend getting a usb device. What's your budget going to be like? There are a wide variety of very high-quality interfaces to be had for under $200. Off the top of my head, two that I can recomend are the PreSonus Audiobox and the Line6 UX2 (which I use).

u/reteov · 4 pointsr/audioengineering

Much of the weight involved in XLR is for shielding from EM interference. If you're going for a clean sound, this will work against it. Also, consumer sound cards do not have the kind of preamp that would work with larger microphones, so you would also need to get a preamp. You're better off just getting a low-cost USB audio interface or mixer.

An example would be the Behringer Xenyx 302USB ( It's good enough to be both functional and portable. Granted, $80 is not exactly pocket change, but it's still two-digit.

u/ge4096 · 4 pointsr/buildastudio

I think the setup is definitely overkill, and you're missing out on an audio interface, which is IMHO the most important part of a setup like this. I wouldn't get the preamp at all - preamps (and especially preamps under ~$400) won't do too much to affect the sound, at least in a way that'll be noticeable when you use it for streaming. And you probably don't need a compressor either - they can be tricky to learn to use and even trickier to learn to use well. I would skip that too. If you ever need to compress something you've recorded, use Audacity. And compression shouldn't really matter if you're just streaming. And a mixer isn't really necessary for just one microphone.

But then, even if you got all of this nice equipment, everything would be ruined if you just ran it into your computer's mic jack. You should get a USB audio interface to connect your microphone and computer. I would recommend something small, like the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2. And this would remove the need for a preamp and a mixer, so all you should need then is the mic, the one long cable, and the interface. This isn't really overkill for streaming, and this will also allow you to record covers with decent quality as well.

u/mellovibes75 · 4 pointsr/battlestations

Not OP but I can help you out here. Let's break this down by component:

  1. Speakers - There are two types: active and passive. Active = amplifier built into each speaker (i.e. most dedicated "computer" speakers from the likes of Logitech, Creative, etc.). Passive = 90% of speakers out there, must be connected to an amplifier to work. Typically passive speakers will get you a better speaker for a given price for an active but you have to figure in the cost of an amplifier. For a passive speaker set up, the cheapest system recommended over at /r/audiophile is a SMSL SA-60 amp and Micca MB42X Bookshelf Speakers. If your budget is higher, ask in the daily purchase advice sticky there (read the rules/suggestions thoroughly). I don't mess around with active speakers so I can't recommend any.

  2. Microphone - For simplicity's sake, I will recommend you look into USB connecting condenser microphones as they are affordable and have good sensitivity. Something like the Audio-Technica AT-2020 or Blue Yeti are popular mics for under $100. I have the Yeti and can attest that it is a very good and sensitive multi pattern mic. They can be hooked directly up to your PC or if you want to get really fancy, check out an audio interface like the Focusrite Scarlett Solo or Scarlett 2i2. The nice thing about an interface is it allows you get a nice mic with an XLR connector (generally better than a USB connection) and it will work with your PC.

  3. Headphones - Don't waste your money on "gaming" headphones. A nice 2 channel pair of cans with a standalone mic like I listed above will hands down outperform the likes of Turtle Beach and Razr headsets. /r/headphones has a really good wiki with more info than I can provide here and headphones broken down by price range and characteristics. Plus, then you can use them both for gaming and general music listening and have a good experience, something you don't get with dedicated "gaming" headsets. The amp I listed in the speakers section is fine for headphones but Schiit makes absolutely fantastic headphone amps and DAC (digital to analog converters, check out both /r/audiophile and /r/headphones for more info on them and why they are good for your set up) with very respectable price tags.

    Hope this helps. Higher quality audio equipment can be confusing and daunting, what with all the technical details, wide price ranges, parsing through all the marketing bullshit and the sometimes snobby attitudes of some "audiophiles". I wish you luck and feel free to ask me if you have any questions.
u/Aksen · 4 pointsr/buildapcsales

I commented about this in a thread about the new Razer mic... not really a big deal but here goes.

If you are looking for truly good audio, these USB mics wont cut it. It's not that they sound bad, it just bugs me that they are marketed as "studio grade," when they really are not. It is like buying a "Gaming PC," from HP.

If you plan to use it for any real content creation, you'd do yourself a favor by buying an inexpensive interface and inexpensive mic. Yeah, this option puts you over $200..... but those are two very cheap options considering that they are viable for pro audio. And they specifically are strong in features that people in this thread would use. The Focusrite Scarletts have amazing (for the price) microphone preamps, and the MXL condensers are amazing (for the price) VO mics.

Everyone in this subreddit is familiar with the price/benefit curve of buying video cards etc... this setup is probably 4x better than a USB mic at 2x the price. From here, you'd have to jump to $800 before you saw any real benefit.

u/SelectaRx · 4 pointsr/audioengineering

If you can scrape together about 125 more Euro, I would suggest this Focusrite USB interface. It's a great little unit for the price, and if you're just getting into things, this should keep you busy for a while until you start needing more options.

u/cotle · 4 pointsr/buildapc

I have had a fair bit of experience in the field of audio engineering, and so hopefully I don't talk out my ass when I say this but:

If this build is audio-orientated, why haven't you included a sound card or other audio interface? This kind of equipment is pretty much the most important part of your setup if you are seriously seeking to create high-fidelity recordings.

Unless you already have an external audio interface or a decent sound card that you're planning to recycle from a previous build, I would highly recommend investing in one. A mid-to-high end sound card will reduce hiss/buzz/interference and will allow you to sample audio at much higher bit-depths.

When it comes to the actual gear (as per usual) your budget dictates the hardware you should purchase, but I give some general guidelines. If you are only planning to do simple recordings (guitar + 1 or 2 vocal mics), I would go with an external soundcard like the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2. If you're interested in richer recordings of perhaps larger scale (drum kits, bands, etc), something similar to a Focusrite Clarett 8pre X or other rack gear would probably suit.

At this stage, we're talking about spending more on an interface than your actual PC, and I'm guessing you came to this sub to find computer advice. Nevertheless, I hope what wrote helps in some way. Good luck with your auditore endeavours!

u/mr_audio · 4 pointsr/audio

Focusrite 2i4

Seriously, save up a little more money. You will be far happier than with the Behringer, the Mackie, or the Yamaha. You will most likely discover you get what you pay for. Also, you will probably be replacing the cheaper products sooner rather than later.

The Focusrite will allow for a single headphone monitor mix for the engineer, as well as two balanced 1/4" TRS outputs to speakers/FOH, as well as 4 RCA outputs, which could be used for monitors/wedges.

Also, the Focusrite preamps sound way better off the bat, so less EQing.

u/Aezalius · 4 pointsr/Twitch

A Samson Q2U is a good option since you mentioned breathing and keyboard noise. It's dynamic as well as both XLR and USB, so you've got both upgrade paths in the future.

If you're set on a condenser mic then the AT2020 is a great choice. I'm using one with a Behringer Q802USB mixer, but you can get a cheaper UMC22 or UM2 which will sound just as good.

edit: If you want to go with XLR and Dynamic, then I highly reccomend the Shure SM57-lc as it sounds absolutely amazing, and there is a ripoff version of it which sounds almost identical called the pdmic78 for $20, but some people say it's not as durable as the sm57 (you can run over that thing with a bus and it still works).

u/davou · 4 pointsr/synthesizers

Heya guys, I dug through the faq and even did that website but Im still a bit lost.

I work in an office where I'm not allowed to have a computer or a phone at my desk; and I'm not allowed to connect anything to the work systems.

Apart from that I'm pretty much allowed to do whatever I want while I idle waiting for work to happen.

I've decided that I wanna try and learn to play some keys and maybe make some beats while I idle; with that in mind I have some requirements on a synth/keyboard.

  • It needs to work without needing to be plugged into a computer while I play (putting sounds on it from a computer before I play is fine, since I can do that at home)

  • It needs to have a headphone jack so that I can jam without upsetting people around me/distracting people.

  • It needs to be compact and not a full sized unit.

    Apart from that here are some things I'd like for it to be able to do also, but wont fuss over.

    line in would be cool, so that I can play along with music from an MP3 player
    Drum pads would be awesome.

    I was looking at something like this but Im not sure if that will run without having the comptuer plugged into it.

    That thing is just about the perfect size and layout for what I want; Quality isn't so important since this is going to be mostly a time waster and quick try at something. If I find I like it, I will get something better down the road. I also realize my needs and wants are pretty specific, so I'm not opposed to spending some money.
u/tPRoC · 4 pointsr/makinghiphop

arturia minilab mk2

if you want full size keys try this or this

stay away from the launchkey it has terrible keys that feel like ass, it's only good if you want the clip launching features for ableton

the akai mpk mini is okay while it lasts but eventually the keys will break off. not might, will. Akai also just released an updated version of this controller, no idea if the keys are any more reliable on it though.

$200 is a bad amount of money to spend. either go cheap ($100) or go expensive with midi controllers and get something like this or this, everything "mid range" feels like ass for the price you pay &amp; you will be disappointed with it.

u/thomasxx3 · 4 pointsr/Guitar

hmm maybe something like a simple usb keyboard that connects to your pc?

you can record directly with that and put it in your software + they are way smaller

im by far not a pro but this is what i would do^ :)

u/krtr · 4 pointsr/Guitar

It's a bit more but I'm finding my Scarlett Solo does the job.

u/Audbol · 4 pointsr/techtheatre

The new Behringer interfaces are solid as a rock. Highly recommended. [link](BEHRINGER U-PHORIA UMC404HD

u/YaBoyNazeem · 4 pointsr/podcasting

One problem is that mixer doesn't have two XLR input channels. Most mixers or interfaces that are used with multiple mics have multiple XLR inputs. That Mixer does have line in inputs though. So I think you would need to either get a new mixer OR try to use something like this....;qid=1556022969&amp;s=musical-instruments&amp;sr=1-3


I don't know how well that would work because I have never done it but it's worth a try if you're strapped for cash.


This can connect your 3.5mm input from your Toner mic in to your Line in 2/3 input on your board.


An example of an interface with two XLR inputs is this:;keywords=behringer+umc202hd&amp;qid=1556023240&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=behringer+u%2Caps%2C156&amp;sr=8-3


A mixer with two interfaces is this:;qid=1556023157&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-6

u/Ohgrinho · 4 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

If you can find a used Steinberg UR12, I would recommend that.
I use one myself for one of my laptops, when I'm not in the studio.

It comes with Phantom power, XLR, monitoring, 192khz, 24 bit and even some direct monitoring. A new one would cost €99. So you might find a second hand one for something around 40-70 €/$.

u/TwoKiwi · 4 pointsr/synthesizers

Hey, I'm new to the hardware world of keyboards and synthesizers. I'm looking for a hardware keyboard that's capable of synthesizing instrument sounds (piano, organ, strings, trumpets, etc) and capable of synthesizing sounds from scratch (oscillator, filters, LFO, portamento, etc). I don't care whether the synthesizer is a true analog synth or a virtual analog/analog modeling synth. Does something exist that is capable of doing both of these types of sound synthesis in one device? Or do I need to buy 2 separate devices?

I currently own a midiplus AKM320 (32 key usb midi keyboard), but I'm finding the number of keys limiting while trying to learn music theory. Would it be feasible to buy a larger keyboard such as the MicroArranger then feed it into another synthesizer like the microkorg/MS2000 Rack Mount to achieve both types of sound synthesis?

Thanks for the help!

u/spdorsey · 4 pointsr/audio

I have a Focusrite 2i4 and this thing is very nice for the cost. Great inputs, clean sound, and good hardware.

u/Trees_And_Porn · 4 pointsr/battlestations

Hey guys! I know this just looks like a generic RGB battlestation. I recently just bought a house for myself, and was finally able to set up my own gaming room, and I wanted to show it off .I plan to eventually set up my VR stuff in this room somewhere. I know the photo quality sucks, but I don't own a camera, and my iPhone camera sucks.

Case - NZXT Phantom 410


CPU - i7-4790k Devil's Canyon

CPU Cooler - NZXT Kraken X42

RAM - Kingston HyperX


Storage - Samsung 860 PRO 1TB

Keyboard - Ducky Shine 4

Mouse - Corsair Scimitar

Headphones - Sennheiser PC 360

Microphone - Audio-Technica 2020

Audio Interface - Focusrite Scarlett Solo

Monitors - Asus VG248QE x2

u/Trifax · 4 pointsr/VoiceActing

If you're going to do voiceover semi-regularly to very often on even your own projects casually, it's worth doing better than the Blue Yeti or Snowball. You can get a much better sound than that if you can manage a little more cash—I'm sure you can get creative.

AT2020 ($83), Behringer B-1 ($89.95), MXL 770 ($74.99) or 990 ($87.67), or the Samson CO1 ($38 used, $62 new).

All XLR condenser microphones, which means that you also need an interface and an XLR cable. The Focusrite Scarlett is the most popular and most affordable.

u/SOGOpod · 4 pointsr/podcasting

Let's start from the top.

  • Here's my Handy Dandy Microphone Guide to get you started. I recommend you create a budget before you go mic shopping.

  • Avoid any and all hardware mixers. If you mess up your EQ from the get-go, there's no fixing it later. Always record flat, and EQ in post. Digital EQ's are all but indistinguishable from their analog predecessors.

  • If you want to use an XLR mic (read the guide) you'll need an interface. A Focusrite will be an excellent investment, if you choose to go that route. A Focusrite Scarlett Solo will be perfect, if it's just you, or your cohost won't be recording in the same house as you, but an 18i8 will be pretty much the max any podcaster will ever need (I use an 18i20, but I later realized it was definitely overkill)

  • As for software, Garageband is perfect to start. I would recommend Mixcraft, or Reaper, but they're both Mixcraft is Windows-only (Reaper has a Mac version. Thanks for the correction @Cassinpants), and I assume you have a Mac, since you have GB.
    My personal setup is:

    -Focusrite 18i20

    -Electrovoice Re20 + Heil PR40

    -Custom PC (i7 6700k/ Fury X/ 16Gib DDR5 RAM, Hard drives for days)

    -Mixcraft 8

    -various plugins


    Hope this helps, for now! See you back, soon, to figure out RSS ;D

    Edit: Added multiple links
u/MookieFish · 4 pointsr/makinghiphop

I use this mic for any vocals I do and I get pretty decent results for a bedroom. You can find cheaper mics than that, but make sure you get a large diaphragm condenser mic and make sure its XLR, not USB. It doesn't come with a mic stand. I learned that the hard way

You'll need an audio interface as well. That's probably the cheapest interface that's worth getting as well from what I hear.

About $250 or so for a cheaper setup, but it's a one-time purchase and the added quality is worth it I think.

u/shab1b1 · 4 pointsr/buildapc

I know that a lot of streamers use the audio technica microphones so here's one. There is also the Blue Yeti. In terms of budget microphones, there is the Blue Snowball and the CAD u37. You also might want to consider an audio interface as well. Here's an excellent combo, cause its awesome.

u/toxicfreeLoL · 3 pointsr/smashbros

you kind of just need an audio-interface that provides X inputs and X outputs. Check out the stuff from Native Instruments, especially the Audio Kontrol devices, there should be sth that fits your needs.

edit: the NI-stuff is probably an overkill, its more fit for music-recording/production, maybe you can find a cheaper alternative with less features.
maybe sth like this

u/jfb112697 · 3 pointsr/SSBM

What is the correct way to setup caster headsets so they can hear each other and such, audio is definitely not my strong suit. I'm using OBS and have one of these if that helps.

u/jabob513 · 3 pointsr/PCSound

I personally recommend the Klipsch ProMedia as the best sub-$200 option. Sound is really solid and it's definitely got the bass. Plugging your computer in is straightforward and I believe the newest version has bluetooth as well. Best Buy used to have it as a demo with their computer speakers, not sure if they do anymore.

A better option might be studio monitors like the JBL LSR305/LSR30X which are also an insane deal. You'd need to get a bluetooth adapter and you'd need to worry about inputs (many studio monitors take 1/4" or XLR, which would require janky adapters (probably won't sound great out of a headphhone out without something like this) or a dac/audio interface like this or this. The JBL approach will get you a better sound (more accurate to the music, more balanced sound, magical amazing beautiful and perfect imaging) but will probably be a bit above what you'd like to spend. Most of that stuff can also be bought used if you are okay with that.

I would try and stretch or save up a bit for the monitors. They're a pretty solid step up from most all "computer speakers," and the JBLs in particular are one of the best bang-for-buck deals in audio that I've seen.

Best of luck, and feel free to shoot me a PM with more questions or what you decide to do!

u/ajxela · 3 pointsr/Bass

If you have a Mac then you have garage band which has some decent sounding bass amp sims for free. You just need an audio interface, which you could find for probably under $40.

First interface I got is this one,;amp;qid=1520916937&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;amp;keywords=lexicon+alpha+audio+interface&amp;amp;dpPl=1&amp;amp;dpID=31JIs7zmfCL&amp;amp;ref=plSrch and it’s $48.

Not great but definitely gets that job done.

u/ZKSteffel · 3 pointsr/audiophile

This USB DAC will give you the best bang for your buck until you want to drop big money on stuff. I've been using mine for about 6 months now, and really dig the quality. It's also great for using headphones (if they don't need a dedicated amp), since it's a much higher quality than your typical pc headphone jack. Soundcard's aren't really worth the money, IMO, unless you're gonna try setting up a 7.1 system or something. But with your current setup, the USB DAC -&gt; RCA output -&gt; receiver -&gt; speakers should be solid.

Also, check into building some monitor stands, or stacking some books up to set them on. Getting the tweeters around ear level makes a big difference in the sound at your listening position.

Placement makes a big difference. /u/zeospantera has some nice guides on setup, often referring to this diagram he's drawn up of the suggested placement for a 2.0 system. You can also play around here with different recommendations from around the web with a good visual.

u/AverageJoeAudiophile · 3 pointsr/audiophile

This well be worlds better

Infinify Primus p153 x2 $150

SMSL SA 50 amp $70

Behringer USB DAC $30


If you can add a sub

Dayton Sub-800 $110

You can also checkout /r/budgetaudiophile and /r/zeos for more recommendations.

u/LordGarak · 3 pointsr/linuxquestions

Spotify and cellphones are certainly not high quality audio sources. If your having trouble with a particular sound device on linux you might just want to try a different device.

Are you paying for Spotify? The free version audio quality is pretty terrible. With premium if you set the quality to very high its ok.

The sound interface on most phones isn't all that great. It's optimized for speech and not music. Some phones are better than others.

These are slightly better than your typical built in audio interface and work good under linux:;amp;qid=1565255621&amp;amp;s=gateway&amp;amp;sr=8-5

u/mourningyou · 3 pointsr/Guitar

The line in on your soundcard is built for literally pennies. Using it will almost always result in horrible audio, regardless of what software you use. Audacity is fine for recording direct tracks.

The next step up would be to get a usb audio interface, it will sound much better recording through that.

Here is a cheap one:;amp;qid=1396199199&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=UCA+202

If you can't buy ANYTHING.... well do you have a smartphone? Your smartphone's mic placed 5-10 feet from the amp with a decent volume will sound better than the line in on your sound card. Do a bunch of takes until you find the best placement and amp volume.

u/keanex · 3 pointsr/headphones

Instead of spending $30 on a USB headphone splitter the OP would be much better off in every way buying an actual amp/dac for the same price.

u/aiklfelw · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Yes. That's the exact sound it would make. In that case, a USB DAC would probably help, but it doesn't have to be expensive. Even this would probably be an improvement:

u/asdf4455 · 3 pointsr/headphones

I have no idea whether or not it would damage the headphones or if it would even really work, but I'm curious if you have a standalone DAC or DAC/AMP. usually any noise you get from headphones on your computer would be caused by interference in the motherboards on-board audio. If you don't have a dac or dac/amp, consider getting one as it might just eliminate the noise you experience without having to use a device like this. You can get a cheap standalone dac like this or this. Now, idk what version of the DT770 you have, but if it more than the 32 Ohm, you could also consider getting a cheaper DAC/AMP combo from SMSL or FiiO.

u/shamusl · 3 pointsr/audiophile

for the price, this is an excellent DAC. Not $400 quality, but you probably aren't looking for that. Optical out is a big pro btw.;amp;qid=1325278076&amp;amp;sr=8-1

u/2old2care · 3 pointsr/audioengineering

You are coming from the stereo output (2 channels) of your mixer. You need an interface with two inputs. You could use the Scalet 2i2, but the Scarlet interfaces are made for microphones, not line-level inputs like your mixer.

All you really need is one of these. Depending on what computer you are using, all you may need is just an RCA to 3.5mm cable like this.

Hope this helps!

u/vkgfx · 3 pointsr/headphones

Maybe someone can correct me, but according to the manual for that receiver, it has an output impedance of 470ohms. That's a bit high for HD800s (and just high in general, like most AVRs jacks).

You're also possibly double amping it by amplifying the signal out of your MacBook and then again in the receiver. I think people tend to overstate this as a problem though.

Apple usually has a good reputation for DACs, but a cheap external DAC like this one will feed a line level signal to your receiver at least. This DAC just got an update with a new DAC IC that people are excited about.

You'll find tons of amp recommendations for the HD800 here so I won't even bother going into much detail.

Ultimately though, if it's loud enough and it sounds good, I wouldn't bother tinkering unless you really want to.

u/priorityliving · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile
u/youreoutofthemovie · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Hey /r/audiophile! Three questions for you today.

I have seen the Behringer UCA202 recommended on here a few times for a DAC, but I am considering the UFO202 instead because I want to also be able to record vinyl to my computer. Is this the right choice? Will I still be able to use the UFO202 as a DAC for playback?

Also, if I plug a 3.5mm to RCA cable from the headphone jack of my computer to the AUX input of a receiver (Yamaha CR-450), will I get any additional benefit from adding a DAC, or does the receiver serve as a DAC?

3rd question: If I were to use that same 3.5mm to RCA cable to go from the headphone jack of the UCA/UFO202 to the receiver, would that be just as good as getting an RCA-RCA cable, or would that throw away some or all of the benefit of the DAC in the first place?


u/phys1cs · 3 pointsr/audiophile

For the DAC, I'd suggest the excellent behringer UCA202, but the speakers are by far the most important part of the system. Getting the best speakers might mean going without an external DAC for a while.

u/Ghost_Pack · 3 pointsr/audio

First double check that your PC doesn't have a combo jack (3.5mm analog and 3.5mm optical in the same port). a lot of modern PCs (especially macs) have this and if that's the case this is your best bet for audio. This is what you'd want.


If you're using HDMI output (especially if you're using a receiver or multiple HDMI inputs), something like this is a good choice.


If not, your next best bet is a internal soundcard with optical output (like this one) if it's a desktop, or an external USB soundcard with an optical output if it's a laptop (like this one).


If neither of these work, and/or you're on a device that only has a 3.5mm analog output and nothing else, you can use one of these with one of these adapters. It's known as an analog to digital converter (ADC) and will take in analog (RCA/3.5mm) and convert it to a digital format like optical. This isn't super recommended, as it add extra conversion steps to the process and will reduce the sound quality of your soundbar somewhat unless you pay out extra money for a high quality professional ADC.

u/polypeptide147 · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

You're looking at the wrong stuff here. All of these are going to sound terrible.

USB DAC. That way you can plug into the computer via USB.

From there, go into a Lepai amp and Dayton speakers. This setup will sound so much better than the ones you were looking at.

u/Zeeall · 3 pointsr/audiophile

It also doesnt do USB, making it useless for many.


Here is a decent USB DAC:

u/djkoolstorm · 3 pointsr/cuemusic;keywords=behringer+audio+interface&amp;qid=1537566551&amp;sprefix=behringer%2Caps%2C162&amp;sr=8-10&amp;ref=sr_1_10Get one of these then use the controller output into the usb souncard rca inputs the pc will pick it up as an USB input so will B.U.T.T i actually own one and it works great .

u/HarryTheCaveman · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Connect your laptop to this DAC with USB, then connect that with a pair of red and white phono leads to an amp like this or this which will power your speakers. There are loads of little amps like that on eBay that can be had for very little money if you're willing to wait for delivery from China vs getting one from a UK 3rd party, (my SA-50 was £33 and took about 3 weeks to arrive.)

u/sk9592 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

So you have a couple of different options.

You can get a PCIe sound card with an optical output on the back:

Or a USB audio interface:

I personally prefer USB based options. They are easier to swap between computers if you need to do that.

u/AndrewLucksNeckBeard · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Go for a used pair of active KRK, Roland, or Yamaha studio monitors. If you're patient I bet you could find a steal for ($100-$150) on craigslist. Hook em up with a behringer usb audio interface (used as well) and toslink digital cable. You could get a MUCH better setup for around $150.;amp;hash=item2a469b8201

u/R39 · 3 pointsr/headphones

Yes. /u/I_eat_mangoes is pointing you in a good direction. Definitely need an amp. I also recommend looking into the O2 or the O2+ODAC Combo. I've heard really good things about both. The Schiit Stack - Magni and Modi - are a little less expensive. The nice thing about them is you can just get the amp at first and add on the DAC later if needed.

I have a UCA202 floating around somewhere, and the sound is surprisingly good for the money. It certainly might be all the DAC you need.

If you can only afford one thing, I would get whatever amp you can afford and add a DAC later.

u/LD5ifty · 3 pointsr/makinghiphop

I know you said under $100, but I've never known anyone to regret spending that little bit extra on a set of cans (except people who bought Beats™). Assuming you're going to be using them for mixing work as well as leisurely listening, I can highly recommend [Sennheiser's HD 380s] ( There are very few other products in your price range that compare.

When you have a little extra scrilla on hand, I also recommend picking up one of these so you can boost the output level to the 380s. The power, clarity, and control offered by this combination is an amazing value.

u/RatherNott · 3 pointsr/linuxhardware

Like /u/ulgreswo, I used a different card; the Xonar DG. In my case, it did work under linux alright, but I'd always have to tamper with a setting under alsamixer in the terminal to get it to output sound on any fresh install of linux. Not sure if the DGX would be any different in that regard.

Also the audio-quality wasn't really all that spectacular, as I would still get buzzing and beeps due to interference from the LAN port.

In the end, I sold it and instead replaced it with this external USB DAC (Digital to Analog Converter), which was very affordable, and put out excellent sound. This particular DAC interested me due to the well written review on the Amazon page from Jayteck, where he describes replacing the capacitors on the board for even better sound quality. I followed the instructions contained in the comments, and found that it does indeed sound quite superb when these modifications are done (though it sounded better than the Xonar DG even without the mod).

Alternatively, I've also read great things on various audio enthusiast forums about this Behringer DAC, which is also quite affordable.

Due to using USB, both of those DAC's are plug-n-play with Linux, and require absolutely no configuration to get working. The only potential downside is that they do not have microphone inputs, and only output stereo audio.

u/humbled · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Just buy the Behringer UCA202 and be done with it.

It's only $30. It has great quality for the price. It has a headphone jack (and volume potentiometer) as well as RCA line-outs for going to a line-input (NOT pre-outs - use in conjunction with a preamp/receiver). It also has optical out for direct digital passthrough, should you decide to get a better DAC in the future.

u/e60deluxe · 3 pointsr/hometheater

ok, your desktop PC should have a blue plug at the back:

plug the console into this port with the adapter.

now, connect the speakers to the green as usual.

go into your sound properties on your computer:

for windows 7 it would be control panel -&gt; sounds -&gt; manage audio devices

click on recording and you should see the line in option. turn on listen to this device. now, when you do that, you can see it pop up in the volume control. open volume control in the bottom right near the clock and click mixer. you can control how loud the console is in comparison to the PC sounds.

if you dont want to do all of this PC fiddling, you need to get a mixer:

which does the same thing, but has more inputs and does not rely on the PC.
if you want more inputs for your pc, you need to get something like this:

which will add one more stereo input.

u/jackemrys · 3 pointsr/audio

An interface goes between an audio source and a computer. It converts an analog signal to digital, and sends it to your PC via USB, FireWire, thunderbolt.

In your situation, iPad-&gt;interface-&gt;computer.

An interface is the correct solution. Using your line input on your computer is an option and may work, though.

Ninja edit: you would plug in what you call an aux cable to your iPad and something like this

Double edit: even cheaper

u/dozens_of_us · 3 pointsr/audiophile

zed is on point with what hes saying. I would add that the 8050 seems to be pretty similar to the 8255 in terms of the quality of sound reproduction. ie same THD. The 8050 does have more power and the bells and whistles that zed mentions.

You need to check out your computer first. What kinda of sound card you have and if you need a better DAC. If not do you have digital out for sound. As far as I know most laptops dont have a digital out so you would still "need" a USB DAC. (You might find that the integrated sound card does the job and you can use the headphone out on the computer.

Personally I look for barebones stuff for an amp/reciever and I would prolly go for the 8255 and save the $100 difference. Then you could see if the headphone out works out well enough and if not grab a DAC.

u/sh3rog · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Sounds like your line level is a bit low - maybe a poor output from your soundcard?

I recommend dropping like 30$ and getting this to see if that doesn't help your problem.

I'm guessing the dynamic range on the output for your sound card isn't great and music tends to be on the louder side so the issue isn't as apparent there.

Also could be poor noise floor on your amp - solve this by putting an inline pre-amp (to raise your signal level for quiet material) or unless you have a real high power amplifier (explaining the poor noise floor) I'd just grab a T-Amp or a cheap stereo amp like this;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1346872929&amp;amp;sr=1-2&amp;amp;keywords=t+amp (lower power higher fidelity). I say this because you will have to remember to turn the pre-amp down for louder material to avoid breaking your amp (it may not care, but more than likely you will damage it if your signal input gets too high)

or this;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1346873001&amp;amp;sr=1-2&amp;amp;keywords=2+channel+amplifier (little more power, probably not as good SQ but it is well enough reviewed, and I'm sure there is probably minimal audible noise at listening levels)

Also could be noise from your soundcard output - if you unplug the signal cable from the amp is the hiss still present? if not just grab that behringer dac I linked to above and it will sort you out

u/Amidaryu · 3 pointsr/hardware

I could recommend a 7.1 card, and if you must have a 7.1 sourround headset, this is a fairly swell soundcard it: Asus Xonar DS

Having done as you ask, let me ask something. Do you really need a gimmicky 7.1 Headset? Because that's what it is: a gimmick. The individual drivers in the headset will not only be smaller (and thus lose any quality in bass, and be incredibly tinny in higher trebles), but the incredibly limited space for driver placement (opposed to how with a home theater, you have the entire room to place the speakers for surround) in the headphones, meaning that you'll find it incredibly difficult to actually discern the direction of a given sound in the 3d environment of a game, making the feature ever so slightly pointless.

Infact, in my experience (I've owned both a Turtlebeach 5.1 headset, and a 7.1 Razer Megalodon), even software virtualization techniques (for example, Dolby's Pro Logic software) beat a given 7.1 equipped headset in ability to make clear the direction of a given sound.

As many no doubt will recommend you do in this thread, I must recommend you pick up a quality set of headphones, and this is a good place to start looking for one. Along with that, I'd recommend you get a quality DAC (Digital-to-Analog converter, they function kind of like soundcard, but offer alot of benefits over a sound card, at the price of being outside the computer) such as this.

Of course, it's all subjective, and there's no way for me to convince you of the lovemaking-sounds a high quality set of headphones (with a DAC) can provide, without your experiencing it yourself. Whatever you decide to do, best of luck to you.

u/_elote · 3 pointsr/Amd

Saved you ‭$200.01‬ American dollars and you get a better product for a low price of $28.99.

u/wolfcry0 · 3 pointsr/audio

The UCA202 is pretty well recommended, it's a good DAC and has RCA and Optical outputs

u/blackking023 · 3 pointsr/Reaper

So as another 29yo musician figuring out reaper over the past few weeks. Definitely watch tutorials, how to's, and basic use videos from youtube and stuff posted here. You'll learn way more from doing that faster than you will from poking around. Most of the time i just google something like "Reddit Render Midi track in reaper" and i'll get a link to this sub with a video.

Definitely get an audio interface, i'll help tremendously with overall sound and latency. I think something with two channels will work well for you. You'll most likely only be recording one instrument at a time if you're doing this solo but the option of the second channel will let you record an acoustic performance if you ever want to. I have no brand loyalty so here's a few options, you can do research on them as you see fit or search some out yourself:

UMC202HD , Scarlett 2i2 , AudioBox USB 2x2

Or if you need to be more budget friendly, this guy is a great bang for you buck, however it is only one channel:

Behringer UM2

If you dont have any 1/4" headphones, pick up a 1/4" male to 3.5mm female adapter as well so you can monitor your sound and for playback through the interface. You can find these at bestbuy or somewhere local pretty easily.

You'll want to look at some 3rd party VSTs for effects instead of your phone. I'm currently in the process of trying different free things out, so i don't have too many suggestions unfortunately, but maybe some other people can chime in with their favorites. I'd watch youtube tutorials to learn how to setup and use these. two I could recommend so far are:

MT Power Drumkit 2 - Simple drum VST that allows you to pick from a select of beats in different styles, then once you import them into reaper you can change the beat with the MIDI editor as you see fit. Watch some youtube tutorials on it to get going using it.

AmpliTube Custom Shop - Comes with a few amp, cab, and effect options that should get you going with some guitar sounds. You can also get the demo version of AmpliTube Full and it will run for 30 min, then you have to close and reopen it for it to work again (seems to be a common setup for demo versions of VSTs), but you can get a good bit in 30min if you know what you want going in.

u/3agl · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

As I said, if sound quality isn't really the issue and you're just using voip, the gear he has is fine. Also that's a pretty nice audio interface that'll last op for quite a while.

Alternative with better value and slightly better specs Second xlr/1/4 in, and it comes with studio one and midi input/output. Pretty good bang for the buck.

I have this and it's really nice. Also I've filled up all the inputs and outputs so ¯\ (ツ)

A Higher quality and well recommended mic would be the AT2020

I have an sm58, used, these can be found in the 50-100$ range, and they tend to live very long and kick a lot of ass. There are stories of these mics falling out of moving vehicles on tour and then (once picked up) continuing the tour working just fine.

I have a pair of ath m50xs but the m40s are also a great pair of headphones, and a real budget would be the m20s if you're looking for headphones.

I know you asked for budget, but op did a pretty good job already so if you don't really care about recording then get what OP got.

u/heatseekah · 3 pointsr/audiophile

not sure how much you thinking of spending, but a USB audio interface would be nice for those studio monitors. Presonus Audiobox is a popular choice

u/Pyroraptor · 3 pointsr/letsplay

The Rode podcaster is a REALLY great mic. However, it is also a dynamic mic which has a low sensitivity. It is meant to be used a few inches from your mouth and probably would not be very well suited for picking up multiple people.

The best way to mic multiple people on a single recording is to get several XLR dynamic mics and feed them into a mixing board or preamp. The Akai EIE is great for this because you can have multiple audio streams output to your computer. However, a Behringer Xenyx 1202USB or a Tascam 1200 would work well too. Pair that with a few

If you want to do mic multiple people with one mic then you're looking at a condenser mic. For the price of your podcaster($230) I have a few suggestions. I would still look at getting an XLR setup, because they are much better IMO.

u/cinepro · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Does he have a phono preamp that he's happy with? If so, you just need a "USB Recording Interface". There are tons to choose from, and since you're just doing stereo, almost any will do.

24bit - 48kHz resolution should be good unless he wants to go nuts (maybe do an AB comparison of higher bitrates or frequencies to make sure it's worth it).

Something like this:

Presonus Audiobox 2x2

If it's just this one recording project, then you can buy used and then sell it after you're done. I don't know what the market is like there in Germany (I tend to have a good selection for that kind of stuff here in Los Angeles.)

If you need a good phono preamp too, that gets a little more expensive and complicated.

u/GothamCountySheriff · 3 pointsr/vinyl

You can get a USB audio interface. The better the turntable and interface the better the end product. But for a turntable the level of your LP60, this Behringer unit should do the job fine:

u/dloburns · 3 pointsr/vinyl

It'd be better to get a USB audio adapter* and just a normal dj turntable like a Technics SL-1200 (assuming you want to queue up certain parts).

Some things to know:

  • Direct drive vs. belt drive
  • Using Audacity to record
  • You might need a preamp (you could stack them to distort the sound too)
  • An adjustable counter-weight and replicable needle are probably the two most important parts that separate a cheap TT from a Quality TT

    *rca jacks would be the best, and if you have a desktop you could get a sound card installed that has them too. Other wise you could use the line-in plug which might require and adaptor.
u/zachsilvey · 3 pointsr/audiophile
u/neuromonkey · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I've used a Behringer UCA222 with a Pi 1 and a Pi 3. It isn't audiophile quality, but it does sound pretty good. (I think I paid $22.)

u/Kerb3r0s · 3 pointsr/pocketoperators

$30 and it works with phone, tablet, and PC. Just need a cable or adapter to convert stereo 3.5mm to RCA.

u/proxpi · 3 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Your mic is a good one, your mixer is probably fine... it probably is the sound input on the laptop. Laptop integrated audio is usually pretty shitty to begin with, as it is crammed in close with a bunch of EM-producing circuits, not to mention general cost cutting and the fact that most inputs on laptops aren't meant for anything but a crappy headset-type mic in the first place.

What you need is an external sound card, or, more accurately when talking about music production, an audio interface.

The simplest route to go would be to get something like a Behringer UCA222. It's cheap, but pretty bare-bones. You would simply plug in the RCA output of the mixer into the RCA input, and you should be able to record via that.

For the next level up, there's some better options. One would be the ART USB Dual Pre, which would let you use TWO microphones. Seeing as you don't have two, and it's fairly limited otherwise (it would ignore your mixer completely), I would rather recommend something else...

..such as the Tascan US-100. This is a more complete audio interface, with mic/instrument and stereo in. You could run your SM57 directly into it, to the computer and have the lowest noise possible (any analog connections introduce some level of noise into the signal). You could also connect the RCA output of your mixer to it. The only drawback is that it does not have phantom power, but your mixer can supply that if you ever end up getting a condenser microphone.

All of these options should sound QUITE a bit better than running your mixer directly into your computer.

You didn't mention what software you use, but almost anything should work with any of these.

Hope that helped a bit!

u/RaN96 · 3 pointsr/ImSavingUpForThis

Don't buy a Yeti!! Blue mics are generally overpriced and offer the same quality that a cheaper alternative will get you. Get an AT2020 XLR and a phantom powered mixer. It'll be much much better than a Yeti and you can fine tune your audio settings with the mixer. If you don't want to deal with a mixer there is a USB version of the AT2020 that should save you $30.

There's also this bundle for $180 that comes with a Windtech Windscreen (Which is awesome, I use it on my AT2035) a pair of headphones and the AT2020 USB+.

u/carllimbacher · 3 pointsr/Bass

I think that piece of kit is just a mixer and won't work as an interface to for recording.

Luckily, Behringer makes an even less expensive mixer/interface that will do exactly what you're looking for:;amp;qid=1407273279&amp;amp;sr=8-9&amp;amp;keywords=behringer

u/ollee · 3 pointsr/Twitch

Can't go wrong with a Behringer. They're specifically what I use. I originally started with console capture, having both PS3 and 360 so I sprung for the xenyx 802 for the extra channels. This is a list of their small mixers. I know a couple people(larger streamers) Running the seems nice. I'm using a 1622fx atm but that's big. I got it second hand at guitar center, it's fairly safe to check what they might have that's small, you might get something cheaper than online, or something better for the same price, but you ARE taking a chance.

Another option if you're going for a traditional XLR mic(since windows mixer w/ OBS/Xsplit is strong for PC gamers) you can get an audio interface. This basically is a piece of equipment that turns your XLR into a usb device. The Behringer 302usb is just an interface/small mixer that looks like it might be nice to use. There are also things like the babyface that is expensive as shit but absolutely wonderful, or the much more budget focusrite that are both solid devices. These are actually best as you're taking balanced audio directly translated into a digital signal through a device designed to eliminate interference, but they can get expensive.

Good audio costs money, but you can alleviate the cost some. Don't by a snowball...get something you can shockmount and popfilter and boom to eliminate ambient noise...that is if you don't have a good mic yet.


u/jparkerwillis · 3 pointsr/AskGames

If you get a mixer you can plug any old headphones into it and get really good quality sound out of them.
But if you're looking for a headset I doubt you'd find a good quality one for $80. Definitely don't buy Logitech headsets. They break really easily due to how the ears swivel where they connect.
If you had the money and didn't wreck your headsets I would especially recommend the Sennheiser PC363D. Sennheiser make some awesome headphones.

u/MisterJellybean · 3 pointsr/audio

You will likely want an actual audio interface.

Behringer has a number of cheap USB mixers. That will give you a simple EQ, gain, and simple mixing with physical knobs. This might be better to learn on?

Edit: for a little more, this one would give you a few more features to play with and learn on, and give you more capacity down the road if you get into it a little more.

u/ChuckEye · 3 pointsr/Guitar
u/lightrefracted · 3 pointsr/ZReviews

If you want to play several audio sources at once then you need a mixer to combine the inputs. A simple Y-splitter cable won't work for this and most DAC/Amps only play from one source at a time. There are affordable USB mixers that act as USB audio interfaces (both playback and recording in PC), like this one BEHRINGER XENYX 302USB. It combines analog audio inputs and you can listen to the output via the headphone out on the mixer itself, the line out from the mixer to a separate headphone amp, or using the PC's audio playback if you treat the interface as a recording device and enable listening on it.

As for the optical, as long as it's just a PCM signal and not DTS or Dolby Digital (those require decoding), then you can convert that to analog using a simple digital to analog converter ($5-10) and run that analog output (RCA, 3.5mm, 6.5mm, etc) as another input on the mixer.

u/captainvideoblaster · 3 pointsr/giantbomb

&gt; this Blue Yeti set

Lots of people start with that but soon upgrade. You can get better quality mic in a same price range (like Blue XLR models). You still need some kind DAC but those are cheap while giving better sound quality for playback than onboard audio (handy for reviewing audio quality of a game).

u/ProtectYaShek · 3 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Well here's where it depends on what you want to do with the recordings after the initial recording. If you aren't looking to mix and edit the individual instrument tracks afterwards, you could use the 8 mic inputs on your mixer, and output the audio to your pc via a usb interface like the Focusrite 2i2:

Now miking exerything up: You've got Bass and keys which could easily be lined directly into the mixer. For vocals, you're looking for a straightforward dynamic micropohone, a common workhorse is the SM-58 or SM-57, now at around $100 this might be more than you are looking to spend, but then again, you can never go with a 58 or 57. If you wand a good budget clone, I'd look at the $35 GLS ES-57;amp;showViewpoints=1&amp;amp;sortBy=recent
For guitar, again the industy workhorse is the SM-57, so again you could grab another ES-57, and move on to the Drums.
You've got 4 channels left, so You're probably going to want Kick, Snare, and 2 overheads.
Kick drum you probably want to go with something with a larger element, and while nothing extraordinary, Cad makes a couple kick mics for around 40 bucks;amp;qid=1474769856&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=Kick+drum+microphone
Snare, grab another ES-57, as an SM-57 would be the go to.
Overheads, If your mixer can supply phantom power, there's a plethora of small diameter condenser microphones to choose from. For $100 you can get a set of Monoprice condensers and while you're not going to blown away by the sound, for $100, they'll be more than enough in this situation.

Add in 6 15' mic cables at 10 bucks a piece via monoprice;amp;cp_id=11509&amp;amp;cs_id=1150902 - 4 1/4 cables for the bass, keys and to go from your mixer output to the audio interface and thats about it.

1 - Focusrite 2i2 - $125

3 - GMS ES-57 - $120

1 - Cad kick drum mic - $40

1 - Stereo Pair Monoprice condensers - $100

6 - Xlr microphone cables - $60

4 - 1/4 Cables - $30

Grand total $475.

With this, whatever comes into the mixer is what you're gonna get, so you'll need to make sure you have all your panning, eq, and levels set the way you want them, because aside from some post production eqing, that's pretty much what you're going to get. If you're looking for individual tracks for individual instruments, thats going to take an audio interface with at least 8 inputs, and probably set you back 400-500 on the low end.

u/Alstroph · 3 pointsr/IWantToLearn

I assume you play guitar. I would recommend either Cubase, Reaper, or Ableton for your DAW (digital audio workstation/recording software).

For drums I would recommend either Superior Drummer 2 with the Metal Foundry expansion or Addictive Drums 2

For guitar amp simulation I would recommend either Guitar Rig Peavy Revalver or Podfarm

And finally I would highly recommend a recording interface. The Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 is awesome and you can't go wrong with it.

u/Nine_Cats · 3 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Assuming you mean acoustic guitar, the cheapest setup I would recommend is these three items:
GLS Audio ES-57 which is $40 and very similar to the legendary SM57.
AT2020 condenser microphone for $50.
Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 recording interface for $150.

You'll then need cables and stands, which will run you $40 at the cheapest, but you might want to get some better cables which can be around $10 each.

I recommend cables with rubber connectors like this, the ones with smooth metallic ends generally have really terrible soldering and are very breakable.
(Ones like this are okay).

This is a lot better than just getting a microphone that already has USB, and the AT2020 for $50 is a steal.

u/SirSparrow · 3 pointsr/Songwriting

Buy a Scarlett 2i2 USB interface

Download Reaper (a free Digital Audio Workstation)

Buy an Audiotechnica AT2020, a great all-purpose mic

Take songwriting classes and production classes, or try and find lessons on Youtube or something. Learn music theory and how chord progressions and good melodies are written. It doesn't matter how good your hardware/software is if you don't first spend a lot of time learning how to create a well-structured song.

If you don't understand how chords and melodies fit together, and how to make a well-structured lyric (at least subconsciously) at a music theory level, it will be very difficult for you to progress if you are trying to make catchy music - Find a professional and invest in classes!

u/karnac · 3 pointsr/ableton
I have one of these and it is awesome. great sound and great build quality. it looks great on my desk as well.

u/prowler57 · 3 pointsr/livesound

Is the speaker going to be using any kind of amplification in the room? If so, the easiest thing to do might be just to take a split from the live mic into a small USB audio interface. There's tons, something like this:;amp;qid=1405700687&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=focusrite+scarlett+2i2 would be fine. If there's somebody running sound for the room, they can probably help you with a feed from their board, and maybe setting up a room mic to capture audience sound as well.

If you're all on your own, it might be a little more difficult. Is the focus entirely on one person speaking? If so, one mic close to the speaker is probably going to work best. If there's a lot of involvement from people in the room, it's trickier. You'll need to capture the audience generally to get audience questions, but you'll probably also want a mic on the speaker to put the focus there.

Really, your best bet if they want anything halfway professional is to hire a pro to deal with it.

u/Inappropriate_Comma · 3 pointsr/audioengineering

Every interface I can think of has a 48v phantom power... And you wouldn't need to rely on RCA cables (which are unbalanced) to make it in to your DAW (your Digital Audio Workstation, the software you use to record.. i.e. Ableton, Logic, Cubase, Nuendo, Pro Tools, Reaper, etc.). For $100 you could buy a simple two channel interface with better preamps (marginally, but still better) then the Sampson you purchased that would hook directly to your PC/Mac via USB. For an extra $50 you could get something like the Scarlet 2i2 which will give you 2 solid focusrite pre's and a clean signal path into your computer.

u/slash178 · 3 pointsr/Guitar

A Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 is the way to go. Excellent quality at an insanely low price. Plug your amp straight into it.

u/vanguard_anon · 3 pointsr/PKA

Well, I like your list. I don't know that Rode mic in particular but Lefty had two different Rode mics during PKA and they both sounded great.

I'd personally point you toward the RE20. I love mine and you don't have to be right on top of it to sound great. I also love my Shure SM7B but more than one person has mentioned to me that they can hear me breathe so I'm either going to switch back to the giant foam pop filter or to the RE20.

This package is $500 but it comes with the mic, shock mount, cable, boom, etc.;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1457378551&amp;amp;sr=1-2&amp;amp;keywords=re20

I don't like your audio interface. In particular it's analog and in my experience if you turn up the gain on an analog mixer you get a hiss. It's not a subtle hiss you think you hear either, it's a real problem. (Or maybe the one I had was just extra bad?)

Anything in the scarlet focusrite series will do, this one is $100:;amp;qid=1457378874&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=focusrite

For $150 you can get two inputs:;amp;qid=1457378874&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=focusrite

Let me know how to sound wedges do. I typically just count on curtains, shag carpet, oil painting and furniture to break up the sound.

u/doougle · 3 pointsr/audioengineering
u/MrSparkle666 · 3 pointsr/guitarpedals

You'll want to get some kind of USB audio recording interface such as this:

Focusrite Scarlett 2i2

Most of these types of audio interfaces have high impedance instrument inputs built into them, so you can plug a guitar or synth directly into it.

A DI box isn't really necessary unless you are doing long cable runs, plugging into a mic input on a mixer, or have ground loop hum issues.

u/NewOrchata · 3 pointsr/edmproduction

In regards to lightening the CPU load, this is not the case.

You can shift most of the workload to a sound card or an interface and gain a ton of slack for your CPU. You can make this upgrade *relatively* inexpensive, but you can easily get into more bells and whistles with external interfaces.


Here's a few links for some examples:

Check out this page to get a little more info on how to reduce latency issues while using Ableton for a little more help:

u/razzie-dazzie · 3 pointsr/makinghiphop

Yeah I totally agree, excet he's mentioned a new interface in the past and I have that in my shopping cart right now: [Focusrite Scarlett 2i2] (
I know he uses Logic and Reason to make his beats and if anything I want to help add something to his pool of equipment that he could capitalize on later.

u/edocentric · 3 pointsr/recordthis

It really depends on how much you want to spend and what you're planning to do with your setup.

I personally use a Rode NT2-A with a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 interface (or you could get the Solo and save 50 bucks, but I needed two input ports) and I am pretty satisfied with my setup - I've been using both of them for a whole bunch of paid audiobooks I've done over the years, so they've paid for themselves many times over.

I started out with a Blue Yeti myself, but I decided to change it as soon as I started getting more work. It's not a bad mic, but it's not stellar. When it comes to cheaper USB mics though I'd recommend the Rode NT-USB - my NT2-A broke down over the summer and I was supposed to be recording an audiobook, so I needed a decent replacement until my main mic got repaired. It's slightly more expensive than a Blue Yeti (goes for around $170, while the Yeti is around $100), but I think it's a better quality mic. I still keep my NT-USB at home to use for smaller work that doesn't require going to the studio.

u/sjv7883 · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Those JBLs are meant to have a balanced input (commonly used in the pro-audio scene). Your Sonar DGX puts out an unbalanced signal (commonly used in the consumer and home theater/hifi scene). A DAC that outputs a balanced signal would take care of your interference issues. Take a look at the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2.

u/FG730 · 3 pointsr/singing

I recommend a Focusrite Scarlett as the audio interface based on my own experience. I am not a pro or anything.. I just record guitar/singing for my own amusement. I personally use a Scarlett 6i6, Sony MDR7510 studio headphones, and a Shure SM57 mic (which admittedly, is not ideal for recording vocals), though I ordered a Rode NT1 condenser mic just yesterday and am excited, since it should be great.
Foscusrite has a starter bundle that you could get (;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1452070488&amp;amp;sr=1-1&amp;amp;keywords=focusrite), though I personally would not get the bundle since the mic and headphones are not the greatest.

The Scarlet 2i2 interface, some good "budget" studio monitor headphones (sony makes several for around $100), and a good "budget" condenser mic (Rode NT1 or NT1A... ~$225-$275) is what I would buy. You're looking at $400 at least. I know that sounds like a lot of cash, but if she is even remotely serious, go ahead and do it and don't buy the cheap shit, cause you'll just end up buying better stuff later anyway. After you have all that you may want to look at Reaper as the DAW instead of Audacity. It's only $60 and does a LOT... VST plugins, etc... a 60 day trial is free.

u/Fu-Schnickens · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I have the same setup and use a Scarlett solo. Never had a problem, very easy to use and good looking too.
Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 (1st GENERATION) USB Recording Audio Interface

u/isidor3 · 3 pointsr/audio

It would probably be better than your internal sound card, but if you're really worried about sound quality, you'll need to get a proper recording interface.

u/Condawg · 3 pointsr/Harmontown

I prefer Reaper to Audacity, but that's just personal preference. I find it waaaay easier to edit. It's not free, but it has a pretty much unlimited trial with no restrictions other than a box telling you to buy it when you open the program. Should you get use out of it though, you totally should buy it. It's cheap as hell for a DAW and worth every goddamned penny.

I use an Audio Technica AT2020, which should be a decent step up from your ATR2100. If you want a leap up, the Shure SM7B is one of the best mics you can get, but it requires a shitload of gain so you have to make sure you get a mixer or audio interface that can support it. Since I can't afford to get both a new mixer and a new mic, my next mic will likely be an Electro Voice RE320 dynamic microphone, which seems like a great mic for the price.

Making your audio sound better is not a cheap venture. Once you start your way down this rabbit hole, be prepared to spend a lot of money over the years on it. I'm a voice-over artist, and most of the money I make doing that goes right back into my setup. This room needs audio treatment, I need a better mic, I need better isolation, maybe a full recording booth, but god damn I could build that myself for a fraction of the cost, but will my mediocre craftsmanship be worth the savings? etc etc etc.

If you're just looking for a good setup for a podcast, an XLR AT2020 and a Focusrite Scartlett 2i2 should keep you satisfied for a while. Make sure you also get a pop filter, and good XLR cables.

u/iamhewhodrums · 3 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Here's the one I use. They're great if you can spare the cash.;amp;qid=1415059684&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;keywords=focusrite

Pair that up with some good headphones/monitors and you're all set.

u/2ndRatePianoPlayer · 3 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Hello! I have a noob question for my setup that probably isn't relevant enough to warrant its own post but it might be simple enough that you could answer real quick.

I just bought these studio monitors: and have the top left L and R inputs connected to my Scarlett 2i4 audio interface ( in the balanced inputs 1 and 2 on the back right with TRS cables, but now I don't know what to do to actually be able to get my computer to "recognize" them and use them in my DAW or otherwise be able to control them through my audio interface. The monitors themselves work fine because I can still use them with the auxiliary cable plugged directly into my laptop, but that is a temporary fix because then I can't use my audio interface to control them. No idea what to do and I feel so dumb!

Any help would be huge. I'm using a PC with Windows 10 and my DAW is Reason 10 if that helps at all. Thanks!

u/nighserenity · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I'll give this a go, open for suggestions from others to improve. This is obviously higher than you asked for at $833 after rebates, but it's good value. You can save maybe about $130 by going down to 8gb of ram, GTX 950, and dropping the SSD. It would still be a great pc.

You can easily add RAM later. I really like the speediness of putting the OS and your main software for production on the SSD, and using the HDD as storage for all your recordings. It's slightly more involved if you add an SSD later and move your OS/software over, but doable.

For using your digital piano and MIDI, I highly suggest getting a good interface like this Scarlett which is basically an external sound card with excellent preamps and midi in/out.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU | Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor | $209.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-B150M-D3H DDR3 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $73.99 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $66.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $77.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $45.99 @ SuperBiiz
Video Card | MSI GeForce GTX 960 2GB Video Card | $179.99 @ SuperBiiz
Case | Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case | $44.99 @ SuperBiiz
Power Supply | Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $52.99 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 OEM (64-bit) | $80.89 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $863.81
| Mail-in rebates | -$30.00
| Total | $833.81
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-02 15:15 EST-0500 |

u/FoX_KiLLa · 3 pointsr/Guitar
u/BarnacleBoi · 3 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

I agree! Other people with Tascam interfaces are having driver issues. Luckily I just found an M-Audio interface that's cheap, has good reviews, and is plug and play so I don't have to download or update drivers!

u/SpicyThunder335 · 3 pointsr/Twitch
u/JohannesVerne · 3 pointsr/VoiceActing

Just project with your voice, and keep the mic about 6" away. If you get farther from the mic, you will pick up a lot more reverb from the room, and have a higher noise floor (the gain would need to be higher, and so everything else would have a raised volume too).


As far as interfaces go, the Behringer U-Phoria UM2 is the cheapest I know of that will still give you a good sound, or there is the UMC22 which has slightly better preamps (which shouldn't be an issue unless you are using a dynamic and need high gain to get a good volume). The Focusrite Scarlet Solo is also really popular, if a bit more expensive (~$100). As far as the mic goes, the AT 2020 is very popular, although I prefer the MXL V67G which is also a bit cheaper, or the Lewitt 240 Pro if you have the money (I use the 440 Pure, but it's more expensive, so not the best place to start). Hopefully that helps, at least to get you started. I know I listed a lot of gear here, but it isn't the gear that makes you good, it's lots of practice that will really make the difference. While you will need some gear to get going, there are plenty of pros that use the AT2020 and the scarlet solo for all their recording, so don't sweat about all the high-priced stuff. The top end products do have benefits over the "beginner" gear, but not so much that you need the high end stuff to record professional sounding audio.


So the cheapest setup will run you around $100, although you will also need a mic stand, XLR cable, and pop-filter (which are all fairly cheap), and a shock mount is recommended. You will also want to make sure your space is acoustically treated well, as a good XLR mic will be sensitive and pick up any extra reverb, but I didn't hear anything out of place and echo-y in the demo you posted, so you may have enough treatment already (you will have to play around with it).


Here is a test-track I threw together that hopefully demonstrate the tone and pacing I mentioned in my first reply, and also give an example of how focal fry can be used to good effect (I don't have much in my voice, but when used properly it can add a lot to a performance). It's just my voice, no extra effects (slight EQ was applied), to be as clear as possible about the difference in tone quality. I was going to throw it in an edit of my original, but it will fit just as well here. It's not an actual demo, just a piece I did to cut in as part of a demo, but hopefully it gives you a better idea of what I was talking about.

u/MistahJuicyBoy · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales
u/Stranger-Sun · 3 pointsr/synthesizers

How are cheap are you talking about? What are you trying to do? Do you want to record with a PC/Mac, or something like an iPad?


I have a cheap Behringer audio interface that I keep in my travel bag. Since its USB audio is class compliant, I use it with my iPad. The iPad powers it and I can send two channels of audio in to record stuff. Cheap, lightweight, easy to use, and it sounds fine to me.


Here's something I recently recorded with it. I'm no audio engineer, but I think it sounds good:


Here it is:;qid=1559237676&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3

u/iansteele · 3 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

So when recording vocals and guitar at the same time, like you'd like to do, the debate on what to do is really about how much control you want over editing in the end process.

- If you don't care about control on the individual levels of guitar and vocals AND want to record in one take with both instruments, all you need is one mic, XLR, Mic stand, headphones, and an interface to get the signal into your computer.

In this situation, you need A. and Interface that is cheap but not a POS because it really affects the sound of your recording. Behringer makes a cheap interface for 1 Input (microphone) and actually has a decent Preamp in it. B, you need a microphone and cable (XLR, Balanced) to capture the sound and send it to the interface. This area people could talk forever about, but for just getting the job done and a decent sound, AT2020 Condenser (Currently On Sale) is a great option for capturing both your voice and guitar. any XLR will do $10 or something like that.

- If you wanted to track the guitar and vocals separately, one at a time, the only change I would make is the microphone. Shure SM57 would do great for vocals and guitar individually. There have been many singles and albums in the rock, acoustic, and folk category recorded on these mics alone with fantastic results.


- If recording the guitar and the vocals at the SAME TIME is the route you want, it's definitely possible. 2 Input interface, Two mics, Two XLR's, Two Mic stands, headphones.

- a change in interface is needed from the first behringer to this one because they have the same sound only difference is the amount of inputs for ~$50 more. Next would be buying two microphones, both options listed above are probably going to be the cheapest you'll find with a decent sound. You can find packages like this on guitar center and other audio retailers, but the mics come with a lot of bad frequencies in my opinion, but hard to argue $99 for two microphones. get the cables, plug everything up and record enable two live tracks in you preferred DAW.


As far as the computer goes, Ableton hands out free versions of its "lite" program, and I believe you can record in that version. That would be the best route in my opinion for DAW, Reaper is a good option, I'd stay away from fruity loops if you are mainly just going to be recording audio.

Most of these solutions will put you under or around $250 so I hope this helps, if you have more questions let me know.

u/ReginaldGrey · 3 pointsr/makinghiphop

get an audio interface and monitor speakers. the audio interface will allow you to record any instrument/mic that uses an instrument cable or an XLR cable. make sure you get one with the right amount of inputs u want. if you JUST wanna record vocals, you can get a pretty cheap single-input interface on amazon for like $40. here's a pretty good cheap one that you can also hook monitor speakers up to with the Left and Right outputs in the back.
(;amp;qid=1519988949&amp;amp;sr=8-8&amp;amp;keywords=behringer+interface). For monitor speakers, I've only ever used KRK rokits. I have the 8" and the 5" ones. Obviously I like the 8" better but the 5" ones are still very accurate and impressive. you can go to a guitar center or whatever and listen to a bunch of different brands though if you wanna hear for yourself before you buy. and if you have any leftover money, save it for after you find out what your ideal production workflow is. i personally use maschine and it does everything i could ever want and more, but it might not work out for you. i'd say the interface and speakers will elevate your game instantly and will lead to producing better quality music.

u/_Apex_ · 3 pointsr/makinghiphop

Check out my home studio. Gotta' keep the list building!


u/terriblesounds · 3 pointsr/synthesizers

Definitely understand being new to the game, took me a while to figure out what I needed for live use.

Here's my 2 cents:

u/beley · 3 pointsr/podcasting

I did some testing with multiple USB microphones and was able to setup a virtual audio device in Mac OS and Windows. They were different microphones, but I would assume if they were the same make/model it would have worked as well. The quality was okay, but you've got a lot of room for interference and bandwidth issues on the USB bus doing it this way. What I did and what I recommend you do is move to XLR microphones and a USB audio interface. I have the Scarlett 2i2 but for more than 2 XLR inputs you'd need to upgrade to a 4 or 8 port version. This Behringer 4-port interface is only about $129. Then you'd just need 3 XLR microphones, I have the MXL 770 which goes on sale pretty regularly for about $65. The Audio-Technica AT2020 is also a great choice under $100. The ATR2100 is also a surprisingly good podcasting mic and has both XLR and USB output.

u/randomdoohickey · 3 pointsr/Twitch

The Cloudlifter would be a complete waste of money here and many people use them where they aren't needed.

The bad news here is that Behringer's classic mixers are just plain garbage. End of story. Good for seeing how high it will bounce when being thrown off the roof of a building though.

I would go so far as to say you shouldn't even look at mixers at all unless you're playing an instrument like a guitar in addition to using the mic. You mix where your sources are, so on a gaming PC you need to mix in software on the PC, not in some external box that you need to setup loopback on. The type of software mixer you're looking for is Voicemeeter.

Behringer's "HD" audio interfaces, however, are pretty decent on the cheap. I just wouldn't touch anything less than the $60 UMC202HD though.

At the end of the day, a 2-input/2-output USB audio interface like the Behringer UMC202HD is all you need. I wouldn't bother with an external hardware mixer at all. It's just not needed. If you want to spend a bit more on a nicer interface, Tascam, Roland, and Zoom are worth looking at. Just don't buy Focusrite Scarlett as their Windows 10 drivers are straight-up broken and won't be fixed any time soon.

Get a decent mic arm like the On Stage MBS5000, plug one end of the XLR cable into the SM58, then the other end into your audio interface, e.g. UMC202HD. Plug your speakers and headphone into the interface. Done. That's all you need. You don't even need a foam ball as a vocal dynamic like that SM58 has a built-in pop filter foam behind it's screw-on head. You can stop using your motherboard's onboard audio entirely too. Maybe do an isolation mic clip if you're feeling fancy.

Remember you need a mic arm as putting your mic on the desk is too far away from your mouth and the mic will pick up more keyboard, mouse, and room noise than it will of your voice.

Some adapters you might need, maybe, depending on how your PC speakers are setup:

u/ilrasso · 3 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

this behringer umc202hd might be just what u need. You can setup how what you want to monitor, so having both the mic recording and the playback in the headphones while recording only the mic audio is no problemo. Consider using the recording software called Reaper. It is cheap/free and very nice.

u/darkworldaudio · 3 pointsr/FL_Studio

Well this interface is really highly rated, exceptional quality for the price and this DI box was standard use back in uni. Hope that helps get you started anyways.

u/SpongeBobNudiePants · 3 pointsr/Twitch

I'm actually more of a fan of the 5 mic idea rather than one condenser, for the reasons that /u/carlmmii outlined below. I'm also going to second the idea that running the mixer via Line In, while it may work, isn't the best way to go about doing it. It will work, but the chances of having unintended audio issues (hum, etc) are increased. Instead, I would recommend pushing the mixer budget a little bit to get one with a dedicated USB audio out, or running the mixer L/R outputs into something like this.


As far as good mics in the $50 range, I'd go with Shure PG48s. They're cheap, sound decent, and Shure has a reputation of being incredibly tough. Regardless of which mic you pick, I'd recommend dynamic over condenser to cut down on the amount of vocal bleed (i.e. the voice of Player 1 getting picked up in Player 2's mic) and overall reduction in table noise/dice dropping/etc.

u/spankymustard · 3 pointsr/podcasting

Here's my recommendation for a podcast starter kit:

u/ShiftyAsylum · 3 pointsr/unixporn
u/entropy_pool · 3 pointsr/midi


It is not a midi controller, looks like you would be limited to onboard sounds.

If you are going to be sending midi to a computer, I'd say go with this:
or this:


If 5din midi out is important to you (maybe have sound module or something), spend a little more:

u/WaterDemonBaku · 3 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

This question is kinda too vague to answer. What kind of music are you making? How experienced are you with keyboards? What do you want/need, and how much are you willing to spend?

Assuming you're completely a beginner, I'd recommend this:;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1526281198&amp;amp;sr=1-4&amp;amp;keywords=midi+keyboard

As cheap and as good as it gets for the price. If you decide to invest in music more down the road, I recommend an Alesis v25/v49, or an Akai Professional MPK Mini.

u/theredwoodcurtain · 3 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers
u/FireLordRob · 3 pointsr/buildapc

want to get something like the Focusrite Scarlett 2 input 4 output the nice thing about this is that it has a MIDI in and out with is perfect for someone doing electronic music and will have midi instruments.

u/MetalVolnutt · 3 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

First of all, thank you so much for such a helpful and detailed answer! I wasn't expecting this kind of awesome comments from everyone!

About the virtual instruments, I was thinking that I would really get inspired if I bought the expensive ones, but you are absolutely right. I'm just starting and probably should try learning everything with the free tools that are available (which don't sound that bad actually). I'll check out everything you recommended, including the audio interface. I just have one question about that. I'm about to buy a new digital piano (This is one of the reasons I started to take interest in the computer compatibility), and since (as you said) those have MIDI ports, should I avoid this interface and buy this one instead, since the first one doesn't appear to be compatible with MIDI? Sorry if this is a very obvious question. I'm a real newbie to this fascinating world and I would really want to make the right decisions, especially since I'm about to spend on a piano already and have limited money for this project (at least for now).

u/erniuss · 3 pointsr/buildapc

as the above guys said the usb audio interface you gonna have couple advantages, basically if you ever planing to upgrade into studio speakers or so, you already gonna be having audio interface, and for studio speakers audio interface its must have thing otherwise you losing more than half of the speakers quality , same goes for microphones, if you ever consider buying some microphone and it has XLR connection, or even 3.5mm jack, you can buy adapter to get XLR or so , and even for some £20 microphone you gonna have pretty clear and more than enough quality for skype talks or so , and it would be many times better than directly plugging into your motherboard or front 3.5m socket. / and the last one its what you need the Headphones quality, usally if you buy headphones for few hundread bucks or so, and you using 3.5mm jack to plug into your motherboard, you losing more than 50% of your audio quality , So with some certain interface you can get the full of your headphones/speakers/mics etc. So for audio interfaces you can go for;amp;qid=1484581921&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;keywords=usb+audio+interface that would be the most basic and it would do the job more than enough. The 2 more choices is either M audio or Scarlete , m audio :;amp;qid=1484581921&amp;amp;sr=8-21&amp;amp;keywords=usb+audio+interface thats also one of their newest audio interfaces , and it has pretty good design doesnt it ? :P The other one;amp;qid=1484581921&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=usb+audio+interface , its literally up to you which one you prefer, you can go for more basic option if you not planing to get some expensive pair of speakers or so , if you thinking that you might get some KRK studio monitors or so you can pick one of them 2 £100 worth audio interfaces , the quality between m audio and focusrite wont be noticeable . But to mention again if you literally need it only for those headphones and you not planing to get anything in future just go for the 50 usd audio interface and you will be more than happy :) ( sorry for not fluent english hopefully you can understand )

u/Limro · 3 pointsr/voiceover

In that case I would just put the $100 for Scarlett Forcusrite Solo (2. gen) - Personal recommendation.
Install the driver, and you are good to go.

u/demonic_intent · 3 pointsr/audioengineering

IF you arent trying to spend too much money on it, I'd recommend just heading to a local studio and renting some time to record what you need. That is, unless you are trying to make this a regular thing.

I'll go ahead and throw some links up on what I list as good, low-budget options to get you going.

I'd recommend getting a cardioid condenser mic (AKG AT2020 ~$100), an audio interface with at least one mic preamp and phantom power (Scarlett Solo ~$100), and a pop filter (Audio 2000s AWS4071 ~$10). You'd also need a DAW to edit the tracks, such as cutting out long pauses and words you didn't intend to make into the final cut, and adding a bit of compression and EQ changes. Most likely the audio interface will come with an intro DAW that'll do just enough for what you want to do. For better results you can also pick up an acoustic shield (Monoprice 602650 ~$65) to help isolate the sound, which doesn't seem important just getting into it but once you hear the difference you'll see why its important. Oh, and you'll need to get an XLR cable (~$8) to plug the mic in, but you may or may not want one that's a bit longer than the one I linked.

Something I want to throw in there as well is you'll also probably want to learn how to get on de-essing. In a vocal take, often times an "s" sound will come out very harshly if left unedited. A method to avoid this is to not talk directly into the mic, but slightly off center. Alternatively, you can buy a VST or program that can do it automatically for you. Also, a good thing to do is to reduce noise either through careful automated eq cuts or by using a program such as reafir which can be downloaded for free from the developers here.

If you do get involved with all this craziness, and I know its all pretty intimidating, I'd be happy to help you get on your way to making some great recordings. Just send me a message any time.

u/shindiggety · 3 pointsr/microphones

If you're new, let's introduce you to the different types of microphone.

First, there are traditional microphones, and USB microphones.

USB microphones (like the Blue Snowball) don't need additional power or cables apart from the USB cable. The USB cable alone will power the microphone and carry the audio signal fine.

Traditional microphones use XLR cables and require a preamp. If the microphone is a condenser mic, it will ALSO require power which we call phantom power or 48V power.

If you go with a USB microphone, you just need to buy the microphone and that will work fine by itself plugged into your computer. If you decide you want a traditional microphone, you would also need a preamp, and possible phantom power. This is the purpose of an Audio Interface. An Audio Interface such as a Focusrite Scarlett Solo, a Presonus AudioBox iOne, or a Behringer UM2 include the preamp your mic needs, plus phantom power if you are using a condenser mic.

So with a traditional mic, you would need to buy both a microphone and an interface to convert that analog signal to digital, amplify the signal, and provide power to your mic.

I know this is a lot, but I hope it helps you figure some of this out.

If by daily communication, you mean for gaming and skype/chat, I would go for a simple USB mic. There are cheaper options than the Snowball that are also very good. Look at CAD or Samson. Both have good options.

If you have other questions, feel free to send me a pm.

u/battering_ram · 3 pointsr/audioengineering

You need an audio interface. You don't need that phantom power supply. I don't know why they even sell that shit as a bundle. It just confuses people.

GET THIS. It's what everyone here recommends for beginners. It connects to your computer via USB. It has a built in preamp, phantom power, and a headphone jack as well as RCA outputs on the back if you want to hook up speakers. Just plug you mic directly into the mic input on the front, turn on phantom power, adjust the gain with the gain knob and you're good to go.

If you want two mic inputs GET THIS. It's also got balanced outputs on the back if you ever decide to get studio monitors.

u/BL4CK_CAT · 3 pointsr/singing

Don't get a USB-Condenser Microphone. Yeah they are easy to handle, but you will need a XLR-Interface if you get any Type of "better" Mic in the Future.
A USB-XLR Interface is not really expensive, and is a one-time buy. If you know you'll only do Vocals, just get something like the Scarlett Solo or similar.

For Mics: the Rode NT1-A is an absolute classic for Voice/Vocals, because it offers a lot of Value for the Money and you can Record basically everything with it. Also, it's cheap. If it's not cheap enough, the AKG P120 is even cheaper, but imho the NT1a is worth the money.

And: don't forget a stand and a pop-filter (you can build one yourself, just google diy-popfilter)

u/Turbosack · 3 pointsr/SiegeAcademy

First of all, the feature that the other commenter is referring to is probably Discord's attenuation feature, which lets you turn down the volume of other applications on the system while you are speaking. That may work for you, but it's not the same as monitoring.

Second, as you noted, Windows' builtin monitoring feature has enough latency that it's essentially useless. If you don't already own a headset that supports monitoring, then the only way to do this properly is with an audio interface (for example; there are probably cheaper ones that would work, I just don't know a good one off the top of my head). They can do monitoring without latency because they send the sound directly back to your headphones, without doing a round trip through the computer.

u/belak51 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

The SM57 is a pretty good mic... The problem is most likely the adapter. And the fact that you have less control over the gain of the mic. Dynamic mics shouldn't need phantom power, but I've only used adapters like that when running one into a real mixer. And if you're considering an adapter like that, something like would be a much better option. I'm using a larger version of the same thing to run my audio when streaming.

I realize it's a long shot but if you're in the San Francisco bay area, I've got a few extra USB audio interfaces I don't need

u/sittingbox · 3 pointsr/tifu

Look you may need a small amp between your guitar and the interface but I doubt it.

Focusrite Scarlett Solo (2nd Gen) USB Audio Interface with Pro Tools | First

Currently my interface for simply recording voice, no instruments. Cheap and really reliable. Let me know if I can be more help.

u/jbehrmusic · 3 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Scarlett came out with the 3rd Gen recently. Do you need the 2i2, would you be OK with the Solo? I'm from the US, so I am not sure what the prices would be in EU. But here is the link for the 3rd Gen Solo ($109 USD)



As far as mic, there are plenty of options under $200. But the Rode NT-1 is an awesome mic. I actually own it, and have been using it for the past month or two with my Apollo Twin USB. It has a flat frequency response which is great for allowing the most flexibility when manipulating the audio in post. Don't get fooled by the graph, as they have updated the NT-1 [The old NT-1 had a different frequency response]. This is the new response graph.



If you're looking for used, I would check out Reverb. They have the NT-1 on Reverb for sub $200:



Another good mic for $200 is the sE Electronics X1 S. They have a vocal bundle on Sweetwater for $200



Lastly, there's a $150 mic called the AKG P220.




All these microphones are Large-diaphragm Condenser Microphones. And as already stated, they all have a pretty flat frequency response.

u/kingzmoke · 3 pointsr/Logic_Studio

Honestly dude you should just buy a audio interface and a condenser microphone.

Edit : i have a scarlett solo for anyone interested $50.00 shipped anywhere in United states.

u/ColonelSandurz42 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I have an old usb audio interface that I use as a separate sound device. I have my speakers plugged into the mobo and my headphones plugged into the interface which allows me to change the playback device.

u/snowtx · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Despite the fact that both speakers seem to be a similar price, the Inclines will considerably cheaper and closer to your budget once you account for cables and a subwoofer (provided you actually need one).

Regardless of what you buy, I suggest first trying the speakers without a subwoofer to hear whether you actually miss the last bit of low frequency sound. Both of my suggestions produce fairly low bass, JBL 305 rated at 43 Hz +/- 3 db and who knows about the Inclines as Def Tech doesn't report frequency response using the standard +/- 3 db (most likely they reach somewhere in the 50s?).

For the 305s, you are less likely to need a sub. Also, connecting a sub to the monitors can be complicated and will depend upon your overall setup. A related issue is whether you will be using an external digital-to-analog converter (DAC) - I recommend you do so for the improved sound quality and that you get one with a volume control. I think the best value approach is buy a pro audio interface - these have a DAC, volume control, and the types of cable connections that would facilitate mating your monitors and sub, plus other features that are used by recording musicians. I have the Steinberg UR22 (paid about $115 shipped new off ebay) but you can do fine with cheaper options: Lexicon Alpha has been recommended;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1472738288&amp;amp;sr=1-6&amp;amp;keywords=audio+interface or the Behringer UCA202;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1472738288&amp;amp;sr=1-5&amp;amp;keywords=audio+interface

I went ahead and got the matching JBL LSR310S, but it is expensive ($400 usually but I got mine new on ebay for $279). It was worth it to me as I work from home and listen to some electronic music. Here are ebay listings now:;amp;_sacat=0&amp;amp;_nkw=jbl+lsr310s&amp;amp;_sop=15 Monoprice has a studio sub at $220 that would work (;amp;cp_id=11504&amp;amp;cs_id=1150401&amp;amp;p_id=605999&amp;amp;seq=1&amp;amp;format=2 For cable connections it will depend on what audio interface you get (suggest you buy cables from Monoprice for their support - don't bother with Guitar Center or similar places as their cable prices are very high), however, I think you need the following: for the Behringer you have to use unbalanced connections, qty 4 TRS male x RCA male cables, a) connect the interface to your computer with the supplied USB cable, b) then connect the interface input to the sub input using two (left &amp; right) male TRS x RCA cables, and c) then two more male TRS x RCA (one each, L&amp;R) from the sub output to the 305s input. For the Lexicon Alpha, you would connect in a similar manner but can use balanced connections, total of 4 male TRS x male TRS.

For the Inclines and in considering your initial budget goal, you could go with any of the budget subs. My son has the Dayton SUB-800 ($99 - $5 Labor Day coupon + $6.95 shipping). I'd spend another $20 and get the Dayton SUB-1000 because it supposedly goes down to 30 Hz You would need a subwoofer cable for the connection, such as;amp;qid=1472740255&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=subwoofer+cable

As I mentioned before, one the nice things about the Incline is that it has a built-in DAC; however, the "manual" isn't very helpful - this review does a good job of explaining the source input hierarchy and how to engage the DAC (there isn't an input selection switch so you have to unplug cables to make sure the DAC overrides your computer onboard sound card - in any case, use the USB input or optical for DAC):

u/Kimiwadare · 2 pointsr/Guitar

Not lame at all. When I was in high school I was obsessed with The Pillows. Probably because of FLCL. Learned pretty much that whole score. If you're a new player, though, you might want to consider getting something like a $100 usb audio interface that you can plug your guitar into and use your computer to model an amp. Unless you plan on playing with a band - then you'd need a real amp.

Example of Audio Interface for under $100

AmpliTube Free for making your guitar sound awesome through your computer

u/AntarcticanJam · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

Here's a short lists of what you need to start recording:

  • Computer
  • DAW
  • Audio interface
  • Microphone/instrument

    Computer: I'm assuming you already have this, it allows you to do work.

    DAW: stands for Digital Audio Workstation, and this is where you'll be doing most (if not all) of your work. A popular and cheap option is Reaper, but you can also use a less powerful (and free) program like Audacity. I would recommend starting off with a "full featured" one like Reaper (which I believe has a 30 day trial period?) because if you do end up getting really into it you'll be glad that you have a bit of background knowledge. Some might argue that certain DAWs are better than other, but it really boils down to personal preference. All DAWs can allow you to have multiple tracks going on at once, for instance, overlaying lyrics over an instrumental track.

    Audio interface: this is the hardware that sits between your computer and your instrument/microphone. It allows the signal from the microphone to be converted from analog to digital which the computer can interpret. If you're just starting out, go with whatever you can find on eBay or Craigslist, but make sure it has what you need (correct number of input/output, USB or firewire connectivity, phantom power if you're using condenser mics).

    Microphone/instrument: without this, you won't get far. The microphone you linked above I think is generally used for vocals, as most condenser microphones are. A solid recommendation that a lot of people give is the SM57 dynamic microphone for micing cabinets or instruments; some people even use it for vocals (myself included, 'cause honestly, it gets the job done).

    The link that you gave looks like has a microphone and a DAW, but no audio interface. I think this might be because the microphone itself has some kind of hardware on the inside to be a plug-and-play, using your computer's motherboard as an interface. So for now if you wanted to use that package for recording instruments and vocals with that specific mic, you're good.

    My personal recommendation to start writing music without breaking the bank that will leave you a lot of flexibility going forward:

    Interface: some random 2-input audio interface with decent reviews Keep in mind that you would only be able to use dynamic microphones on this, as condenser require 48v phantom power.

    Microphone: simple dynamic mic

    DAW: I highly recommend trying out the 30-day trial of Reaper, but like I said, this is all your preference.

    Bottom line: the Blue Yeti All-In-One can get you started, but it has limitations (no audio interface) if you want to start getting deeper into it.

    Sorry if this is a bit rambly, I'm at work and kept getting distracted while writing this, let me know if you need any more info or clarification.
u/UltraFlyingTurtle · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Get an audio interface for your PC.

Plug it into your USB and you're golden. You'll get way better sound, you'll be able to record at much higher resolution and quality, plus you can plug in multiple devices (on the bigger models). Also you'll get less latency if you use recording software and monitor your recording of apply real-time effects.

Typically they cost from $100 to $200 for budget ones, like the Scarlet series which are often recommended as entry-level audio interfaces, used for home studio setups. If you're semi-serious about recording, those Scarlet interfaces are the way to go (older generation models are fine).

That's what I've been doing to record vocals (and guitar, and other instruments) for years on my Macs and PCs.

However if you really want to go cheaper, Behringer has this $50 model that should get the job done. It can handle up to 48 kHz.

You'll need a cable adapter to convert the 3.5mm microphone to an XLR output, something like this:

Or this (this one says it's mono instead of stereo, if that matters):

While looking, I saw this really low budget USB audio interface. It's only $29. It has 16-bit/48kHz converters. No personal experience with it, but the reviews are positive.

It uses normal RCA jacks so you can just get an RCA jack to 3.5mm cable, something like this should work:

Edit: Also saw this Lexicon Audio Interface at $47 bucks. No experience with it either, but it's another option:

u/Rosenworcel · 2 pointsr/Bass

I use a Lexicon Alpha interface. Its about as basic as it comes, but hell it works just fine. One instrument and one mic input, I usually plug my bass straight in or run it through my amp output since I'm too cheap to get buy a DI or a good mic for bass. It also comes with the program Cubase. Again, its basic and its kinda finicky, but its as functional as any other software once you learn how to use it. There could be better interfaces at this price though, it looks like Behringer also has a pretty competent interface for $50 but I've never used it.

u/wondroushippo · 2 pointsr/headphones

Hmm, interesting!

If you want to stick with your source, you could try a single-ended to balanced converter:

Or you could go straight-up with a balanced DAC. The Lexicon Alpha has balanced outputs:

(if your budget is $400, you could try the Cambridge DacMagic Plus, which has balanced preamp outputs, haven't used it but I'm definitely intrigued myself)

u/MojoMonster · 2 pointsr/Guitar

Unfortunately, with guitar interfaces, you get what you pay for.

And anything under $350 is going to have limitations and make compromises.

Cheap: Focusrite Scarlett 2i2.

Cheaper: Lexicon Alpha Desktop Recording Studio.

ASIO4All if the drivers suck.

If you find you want to record, get Reaper.
Free to try, cheap to own.

u/PinkFloydJoe · 2 pointsr/pinkfloyd

Hey! Thanks, I am currently mic'ing my acoustics, but that's just because my Acoustic-Electric has a broken output jack right now.

Here's my full signal path for my Acoustics:

Ibanez Talman Acoustic (with broken Output Jack lol - Radioshack 33-3004 Dynamic Microphone (with foam Windscreen) - Lexicon Alpha Audio Interface - Cubase 5 (with Compression &amp; EQ as insert effects, and a reverb send effect.)

From there it's all about Mic placement and subtle changes to Compression and EQ. I like to position my mic right where the neck meets the body, to the left of the Soundhole.

All the rhythm guitar after the start of the 2nd verse ("And did they get you to trade") is Double Tracked, and panned 60-40 L and 40-60 R.

Hope this helps!

u/MoDuReddit · 2 pointsr/embedded

You're right, I thought OP wanted to sample, my bad. 24 bit for sound output for humans is dumb and wasteful.

Meanwhile, cheap USB 24 bit 192kHz ADC-DAC

u/DarkOneCOC · 2 pointsr/Bass
u/Dreyka1 · 2 pointsr/headphones

Try this:

It is a DAC with balanced output.

The Wyrd will not fix the issue. Electrical noise is present on all the rails and not just the ground and +5V.

u/thesneakywalrus · 2 pointsr/audiophile

My suggestion? Grab an outboard DAC.

Personally, I like the Lexicon Alpha and two TRS cables.

u/JammySTB · 2 pointsr/audiophile

2 TRS cables, yes, but the Mixer will connect to your PC via USB.

EDIT: Wait, maybe I'm being stupid. Hang on a sec.

EDIT2: I know that some mixers connect via USB, but I had a look at the pictures of that Behringer, and I don't see a USB port.

EDIT3: I would probably get something like this rather than the Behringer. I think this may use TS, rather than TRS, but I'll check now.

EDIT4: Nope, TRS! Seems like a good product, and I'd certainly get it over the Behringer.

u/drtonmeister · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

Well that optical adapter just translates between ethernet on fiber and ethernet on copper CAT cable. I've used them a bunch in a facility that oddly has lots of installed dual-mode fiber on SC connectors, but no installed networking infrastructure...
So your toslink digital audio fiber won't even fit in the fiber port, let alone do anything useful.
But that does remind me that there is a 5th way to get audio into a retina Macbook -- if you have a (multi-thousand-dollar) digital console using DANTE or similar digital snake system, you can add a computer to the CAT5 loop. Useful for multitrack recording of gigs, but the latency is awful.
You seem to be trying to reinvent the wheel, when for less money you could get a [Behringer 302USB USB](), Alesis Multimic, or Lexicon Alpha that just do what you want, and provide zero-latency monitoring of your recording input. Each of these has decent descriptions of how to set them up and do what you want, and each has lots of people here who use them and can offer advice.

u/JohnBooty · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I've seen the Lexicon Alpha consistently recommended for the LSR305 since it has balanced outputs + low cost + performance. IIRC it has some kind of problem with macOS, not sure, look into it if you're on a Mac.;amp;psc=1

These would be the cables for you I believe (thankx!);amp;psc=1

Tons of other good DAC/amp combos out there; the Alpha is unique b/c of the balanced outputs which should eliminate hum/interference issues.

Disclaimer - I don't own any of this gear personally.

u/Aelpa · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

A Digital to Analogue convertor, it turns the binary data stored on your PC into an analogue electrical signal, every digital device that can output audio has to have one.

The ones built into old motherboard tend to be atrocious with an awful SNR (signal to noise ratio).

Picking up an external DAC or headphone amplifier will fix your issue, as the noise is induced at this conversion stage.

This DAC is widely regarded as an amazing bargain, and it has a dedicated hardware control for your headphone volume, which is always really handy.

Click for Behringer UCA202

A review of the Behringer

u/ultramoustache3 · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

i use a behringer uca202. its a usb audio interface that you can usually find on used sites for like 25 $. you could use it as a headphone amp too and itd be better than yr computers soundcard..

u/Kaligraphic · 2 pointsr/audio

A simple audio interface:
with an RCA to mono 1/4" cable. The main output will be in the range you want. Configure as mono on the attached computer.

Don't use a headphone amplifier.

u/y0y0ma · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I've heard of their 3020, but supposedly the Concept 20 is the same driver in a different cabinet? The What HiFi review makes it sound like the cabinet alone is worth the price difference. That could be true, but I am not going to rely on their word for it. I think it would be best if you could arrange for an audition or, better still, buy them with a good return policy so you can send them back if you are not satisfied with them. This is the most reliable way you could test out 2 speakers because you know best what is important for you. As for bass, it is also part of the music and I feel a faithful reproduction is essential to the experience. I do not own a subwoofer myself because I am satisfied with my MB Quart 490 and their 7.5" woofer. The bass is present but not overpowering at all and it makes all the difference when listening to Pink Floyd or The Coup.

Anyway, what I meant was the audio files will be converted from digital to analog at one point. In your case, it would be the PC's onboard solution. Now, depending on your PC, your onboard solution could be great or it could suck (distortion/constant hum etc.) ! To get around this some people use the digital output on their PC (USB/HDMI/Optical) and the conversion is performed using another device. Since usually stereo amplifiers do not have any way of accepting digital input, the go-to choice is a separate DAC like Fiio D03K / Behringer UCA202. Some people also a get a headphone DAC like Fiio E10K because they need a portable amp for their headphone in addition to a DAC. Others may need more than just a DAC - for example there could be a need to take the HDMI input and send the video to a TV and the audio to speakers. This is where a receiver comes in. A receiver is basically an amp + many more options for inputs, but it could be overkill if you only need a DAC. Used receivers could be cheap, though, and they are quite popular because of the input options you get. Goes without saying that you may not need a separate DAC at all, but just something to consider.

Phew! Hope that helps! :)

u/asdf767 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

this is the cheapest usb dac that i would use. Or an fiio e3 if you have optical or coax output on your pc.

For about $80 i would get a fiio e10k

u/Guardian-Of-Nothing · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

That Emotiva amp has been around for a few years in various trim. Sherbourn marketed it as a small integrated amp too. I've owned the Sherbourn and the A-100 and they are both good. The A-100 is great for headphones too.

As for the DAC, what is the source? CD or a PC? A decent CD should have a built in DAC, and for a PC Behringer makes a great sounding DAC for $30, model UCA202. DACs do not need to bust the bank account.;qid=1566878565&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3

u/thorltd · 2 pointsr/headphones
u/minja · 2 pointsr/audio
u/mxmr47 · 2 pointsr/audiophile

buy this PC-UCA 202- (rca output to receiver) and headphone ouput to logitech speakers. If you have headphones connect them to the receiver's hp output. edit; i just realized i didn't answer your question (control the volume with the receiver), but that product i linked will help your sound quality.

u/LocalAmazonBot · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link:


This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.

u/swinegums · 2 pointsr/audio

I definitely want my speakers to be running through a DAC if I have one, but thanks for the input. This was recommended by Zeos so I'm going to try it and see how it goes.

How do you find the Fiio E7? Is there any background noise/interference when using it with headphones?

u/Umlautica · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Most will recommend against spending $500 on a DAC for $500 dollar speakers. That being said, you can get a great DAC like the $100 Schiit Modi 2 or the $150 JDS Labs ODAC.

You hit diminishing returns quickly with DACs though. Both of these will maybe sound around 5% better than the $30 UCA-202.

u/torokunai · 2 pointsr/hackintosh

I'm super-happy with this

At $30 it's kinda spendy, but the optical out is nice to have.

Top-shelf TI Burr-Brown digitizer btw.

u/hack_tc · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Hahaha, I think the juxtaposition of budget and audiophile drive us all to the brink madness :) . Anyways, I think I just hid it in a link like this without actually naming it. I'll have to work on making my links a little more clearer. But yeah, that behringer dac is a definitely a great affordable option.

u/tmccoy00 · 2 pointsr/Beatmatch

Plugging the Line Level output of the mixer to the amplified microphone input of your laptop is probably resulting in excessive clipping - hence the distorted output.

An Audio Interface with at least one stereo input is probably what you are after. There are a number of options like the Scarlet FocusRite series are worth looking into.

Maybe even something like this?;amp;qid=1409908950&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=audio+interface

u/Smarble53 · 2 pointsr/Twitch

This is the way i've found out i could do this (at least on my computer). I can tell skype to go to whatever output you want, say the front headphone jack. Then have the game audio coming out of the speakers. Run both of those inputs to the mixer and you're done.

If you don't have an extra output, you could always get something like this, or maybe 2 if you want the 1/4 inch jacks to go into your mixer. Just set one as the skype out and the other as the system's main output

u/SaneBRZ · 2 pointsr/SuggestALaptop

&gt; ... so what specs should I be looking for in that regard?

With your budget you could get something with an Intel i5 and a 1080p display.

If you can wait with your pruchase, then get a Acer Aspire V5 473P-5602, which has a 1080p IPS touchscreen. It's currently out of stock and I don't know when it's going to be back, so ...

If you don't mind something refurbished, then I would recommend the Asus Q501LA which has also an 1080p IPS display. But check the warranty and the return policy. Not everyone is okay with that.

If you want to buy now, a Lenovo Z40 wouldn't be a bad choice. It even has a dedicated GPU.

&gt; Great audio: Yes

Behringer UCA202 Audio Interface. Get this. Laptops with a "decent soundcard" aren't a thing.

u/indifference_engine · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

iPad, 'camera connection kit' &amp; behringer UCA202 works for me

u/qMorick · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Get a good cheap pair of bookshelf speakers (or smth more expensive) connect them to an amp and either use a splitter cable to plug it directly into mobo's integrated sound or use a usb dac (with rca cables). You will also have to spend some money on speaker wire to connect speakers to amp.

EDIT: another option is to skip amp part and get a pair of powered studio monitors.

u/username303 · 2 pointsr/edmproduction

the audio 2 DJ interface, what does it do?

I'm completely out of my range here. is it for splitting the audio output into 4 channels? if so, would this do?:;amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;amp;qid=1322396456&amp;amp;amp;sr=1-1

u/pdxtone · 2 pointsr/Guitar

That's what I did, except I run it to a $30 USB soundcard. It took a lot of tweaking but I'm not even using a preamp and it doesn't sound bad at all. Spend more money if you can though.

u/jj69rr · 2 pointsr/vinyl

You can get a Behringer UCA202 for $30 which will take care of it.

u/Runninback405 · 2 pointsr/Beatmatch

Wow you are so helpful, thank you.

So I think I've found a way that will work that involves less pieces. I cross posted this question in r/iphone here. The comments led me to this potential set up:

From my XDJ-RX's dual 1/4 TRS output, I'm going to have this male TS to male RCA cable going into the RCA input ports on the Behringer UCA202 (or UCA222), and then I will have that plug into the Apple Camera Connection Kit via USB, and then that goes into my phone. And THAT should get me a stereo signal.

Does that sound right to you? I'm like 95% sure that plugging two TS plugs into two TRS jacks (on the XDJ-RX) will only reduce the connection to unbalanced, but keep it stereo.

But it's good to know that if this setup doesn't work, the one that you suggested will. Finally this is all starting to make sense!

u/simon425 · 2 pointsr/CarAV

I've got a nearly identical install to his, but mine is not a fixed install so I can take the tablet with me.

The DAC is pretty crucial, and compared to the rest of a car AV set-up, is pretty cheap. The Behringer UCA-202 is another great one for low cost.

u/jallsopp · 2 pointsr/PCSound

Behringer UCA202 is a decent budget DAC and should work perfectly for what you want.

u/hpham033 · 2 pointsr/DJs

Hey! Hopefully I can give you some insight. I am not sure if you can use the USB out if the RX2 into a computer to get an audio signal (someone let me know if I'm wrong). Something you could do is purchase an audio interface. I use this one that is relatively inexpensive for my streaming purposes and it works great! I use it with a Mac and if I remember correctly, it was plug and play. The system would recognize the interface from the streaming software and you get a good quality feed from the mixer. It worked out for me and isn't too overly complicated. Hope you get everything worked out!

u/dramahitler · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You'll need an external (or internal) soundcard or DAC with digital optical toslink S/PDIF ports as there is no way to directly convert to this via most digital and analog connectors. This one is decent for the price:;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1500070400&amp;amp;sr=1-8&amp;amp;keywords=external+sound+card

u/Cool-Beaner · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I recommend the Behringer UCA202. It is a USB DAC with an Optical output. It also has a headphone jack and a ADC audio input.

u/egamble · 2 pointsr/vintageaudio

There are a few ways to do this, the simplest is with a bluetooth receiver and cellphone, I have this one and it sounds okay:

The best way to do this is with a USB DAC, this is the cheapest: and works pretty well. There are lots of different ones with different features, you can spend from 30 to 300 easily.

USB DACs will work with windows and android cellphones with OS 5 (lollipop) and higher. I'm not sure about mac or linux support. Something like this may be useful: if you just want to connect optical or coaxial out from a device.

u/MXIIA · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I think he just wants speakers for his computer and doesn't realize you can use bookshelf speakers to do so with an amp.

My current setup, and one I recommend to him, is as follows

Computer --usb--&gt; Behringer UCA202 DAC --rca--&gt; Lepai LP 2020A+ Amp --speaker wire--&gt; Micca MB42X Bookshelf Speakers

That'll give him the dial he wants - on the amp - as well as amazing sound quality by bypassing the computer's built in DAC.

u/minty901 · 2 pointsr/postrock

OK, so my recommendation:

Zoom G1on ($50):;amp;qid=1421777443&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=zoom+g1on

This will give you SO much great stuff. Loads of amp+speaker simulators for recording direct (vox, fender, marshall etc.), as well as loads of distortion, chorus, reverb, echo synth, wah, filter etc. effects that can be linked together in a chain. I have a lot of experience with guitar effects, and this unit is by far the best way to spend your money.

You still need a better way to input from that pedal into your computer. If you want to be able to use stereo effects (recommended), meaning the reverbs will be wider and more spacious, then you will need to go for a 2-channel USB interface. Something like this might work for you:;amp;qid=1421777678&amp;amp;sr=8-7&amp;amp;keywords=2+in+audio+interface

...however I have no experience with that so I can't vouch for it. You could try to find one a little pricier that might work better, I don't know. Look around for reviews etc., but if that works fine then you should have pretty much all you need to record a good quality sound in Audacity.

For drum sounds and others such as piano and strings, check out this software:

I use it myself. It should work as a plug-in with Audacity but I haven't tried that myself. Either way it's free and has some good sounds in it.

u/psychul · 2 pointsr/DJs

I've recently gotten myself a fancy new setup to record. Along with using a Novation Twitch and an Akai MPK25 to control Serato DJ, I have a lighting rig, which I use while mixing to make it more dynamic. I use a chauvet Obey 40, with two Chauvet Mini Kintas and two generic LED spotlights, to create an atmosphere. AAANNDDDD along side that, my most recent addition is two video cameras on tripods to catch the whole mix from different angles, which I then take into Sony Vegas 13 to edit it all down and make it look cool. (Oh, and I've got my mix recorded in Serato while I play, which I sync up with the video via a few clap samples that I play from my speakers). Here's the final product ( don't mind my kinda boring mixing, I just wanted to test out my whole setup to see if it worked)

And to help you out with the recording situation, Behringer sells rather good quality input/output sound cards for about $30 (Behringer UCA202 Audio Interface, and you just plug in the output from the mixer into it, and use audacity (or your favorite recording program) to record it all.

u/applevinegar · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Just buy a 3,5mm to RCA cable and you'll be all set. You can also get a DAC for a slight improvement ( but it's not necessary.

u/hagrid100 · 2 pointsr/audio

If you're going to get a cheap USB audio card, spring the extra few dollars and get one of these if you can. It'll be a lot higher quality.

u/drfine2 · 2 pointsr/cassetteculture

Get one of these, it is inexpensive. I use it with Audacity. My difference is that I record out of a home tape deck, not a box like yours. I think I can help you up to a point. The Behringer has a ton of reviews and very high ratings. I have the one in Red also, it came free with another device, a guitar effects pod.

I've read your manual, although they combined it with ES23 model. Cycle through the Sound settings to EQ Off when dubbing. Turn off or Cancel the sound virtualizer effect. On this Panasonic you have an advantage in that you can control the volume digitally. Start at 6. Level 7 might be better. You will be able to figure out which is best, but adjust it depending on the volume of the entire tape when you move on to another tape. Simon and Garfunkel would be a different setting output SLIGHTLY than Metallica, etc.

On your computer, reboot. Don't have the jack plugged into the computer. Do have the playback Panasonic prepared. You want to test one song. You want to monitor at the end of the chain, so you want to use your computer speakers, or connect via bluetooth to speakers or headphones, somehow.

My laptops now only have one port for sound In and Out. When I plug into the jack it opens a box with a question of how I want to use it. I'll go see the options on mine after I post this, but you don't want Microphone in, you want recording in or something else if you have a choice. If the Audio Device selection doesn't pop up, google it, there is help "How to get a popup when device is plugged into audio jack" - Or if you know your computer pretty well, open the sound panel options for the input/output to see what options are there.

You want LINE IN.

&gt;Here are the options in the sound panel on my Acer with one jack:

&gt;The current connected device is:

&gt;Which device did you plug in?

&gt;Line In [this is the one you want to use]

&gt;Mic In


&gt;Speaker Out


This is where the Behringer USB device will come in handy. Audacity will find it, and you can simply monitor via the interface or on your computer.

Audacity, if you are new to it, it defaults at fresh install to 48khz sampling rate in my experience. You want to set that to 44.1 khz, the CD Audio standard. You can google that. I personally record to WAV file on a clean partition, but recording to high rate MP3 or something else might be what you want to do.

Your cables need to be good, and you need to notice if there is dust affecting the signal in the headphone port or the port on your computer. When you are monitoring at the business end DURING A SILENT PAUSE MODE, you can rotate the plug that is in the jack, you will hear if there is a crappy connection. You can clean the mini headphone jack ports just google it.

I hope you have got a way to monitor what is coming in to your computer after you do all this, it is really the only way to go. Like I said, considering the disadvantage of recording from a boombox headphone output, your advantage is that digital level control on the output, so you might turn out a fairly good recording.

u/MagnaFarce · 2 pointsr/Music

Generally you can get a better standalone turntable and an RCA to USB converter (I use this Behringer one) for the same price.

u/helez_ · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Behringer has a few cheap audio interfaces that will do it well for $30

u/nawitus · 2 pointsr/audiophile
u/TMobotron · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

I'm pretty sure you can get a crappy little USB device with a 1/8" mic input and use that. The sound isn't going to be great but it might hold you over in the meantime. Something like this or this (along with cable adapter(s)) i think would work.

Otherwise, I'd probably be spending all my time learning the blofeld and making patches for it. That synth is basically limitless with its possibilities. Try to make some patches that sound like the gear you want (e piano, etc.).

And get some VSTs! There are plenty of solid-sounding free ones - you can compose your ass off with just free software.

u/RuchW · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I would personally go for this. When I was looking to build my system, it came highly recommended on this subreddit. Plug it into the USB and bypass your soundcard altogether.

u/cannedleech · 2 pointsr/edmproduction

what is an interface? and do you have a suggestion for which one? noob here :)

Edit: would this one work?

u/TheLegendOfZero · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I use a USB DAC so that it appears as another audio source in the OS. This way I can use keyboard shortcuts to switch between headphones and speakers, rather than using a physical switch.

u/jankenpwn · 2 pointsr/audiophile

On what budget? Beringer UCA202 if you just want something cheap.

u/Some_Chords · 2 pointsr/headphones

No, that's just electrical interference from your computer being a computer. To fix it, you'd have to get a cheap DAC like the Behringer UCA202 or FiiO D3 , other than that, just deal with the static.

u/manirelli · 2 pointsr/hardware

Here you go. Works like a charm and will eliminate any noise from interference in the case.

Behringer UCA202

u/rswalker · 2 pointsr/podcasting

To use that with a computer, you’ll need something like this:

u/women_are_pretty · 2 pointsr/audiophile

It seems unlikely that a wire degrades over time. If rebooting works, it's more likely related to the computer.

You could buy a cheap DAC, you could try the headphone jack at about 60% volume and see how that works.

u/12stringPlayer · 2 pointsr/OSMC

On-board audio interfaces suck on almost all computers.

I use the JustBoom DAC on the RPi 3B+ CD Player I built for my GF. It sounds great!

Another alternative is to use a USB audio interface like the Behringer UCA202. I had one laying around from when I used an old laptop as a media controller, and it works fine on my OSMC RPi.

u/Velimas · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Right. If you're not American, tell me and I'll re-evaluate. So as for speakers I recommend the Klipsch RB-51 II's at $420. Pair this with a Yamaha A-S300 amplifier for $330, and the Klipsch RW12D subwoofer for $350 dollars. Lastly, you're going to want a DAC, which are much cheaper than soundcards. Take the Behringer UCA202 at $30 Very hefty prices, but for a subtotal of $1110, you'll have an absolutely amazing setup. If you're a bit taken aback by the price, I can cook up something cheaper with not much of an issue, so tell me what you think!

u/0perator00 · 2 pointsr/DIY

You want a Behringer UCA202 Audio Interface. I purchased one specifically for use with these speakers. It's just a USB Digital Audio Converter (plug it in via USB, and it detects as a sound card, and has RCA outputs.) You could probably get away with using your onboard soundcard with a 1/8 jack to RCA as well, but, onboard soundcards are notoriously bad.

Also, get a good cable as well.

After getting a headset I moved onto a asus xonar essence stx so that I had something decent to power my headset and my Behringer UCA202 has been retired.

u/1369ic · 2 pointsr/audio

If you want to get the most out of your new gear, you should buy a DAC. On-board sound cards are not high quality and you'll be better off getting your DAC chip out of the electrical shit storm going on inside your computer. You can spend anything from $30 or so up to the price of a new house on a DAC. The Behringer UCA202 is popular at the $30 range. If you want a nicer one, I'd recommend the Schiit Modi. And it goes up from there.

As for an amp, opinions vary. Most audiophiles will tell you an integrated amp is better than a receiver, and separates (a power amp and a preamp) are better, and dual mono all the way through is even better (separate amps for the left and right channels).

You could get a craigslist or eBay special and be perfectly fine. If you want a popular and solid integrated, the Emotiva Mini-X a100 is on sale for $170. Emotiva is the kind of the go-to for a lot of budget-minded audiophiles.

Lastly, while those speakers are going to sound very nice, "absolute best" is not only a relative term, it costs a lot more to achieve. Check out /r/zeos/ for a lot of good information.

u/_donkeyqong_ · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

spend 10 more dollars

spdif out, headphone out, and rca out.

u/PlasmaSheep · 2 pointsr/audiophile

How much money are you willing to spend?

If you're only looking for a headphone amp, a solid (and probably one of the cheapest) options is an O2. If you have the tools and know-how, it's easy (and cheaper) to DIY.

If you're also willing to buy a DAC, the UCA-202 is a popular recommendation, and it's pretty cheap. If you're willing to spend a bit more money (or in the future) you can upgrade to the ODAC, which does measure better. I do not think you'd need a DAC that measures better than the ODAC, at least not with your current setup.

u/imightbearobot · 2 pointsr/24hoursupport

Audio out of the PC is easy:

The Cheap Way using internal sound card

Or using an external DAC

For the 360 it will output audio and HDMI at the same time, there is just a plastic shield over the hdmi port when the component cable is plugged in. Options are:

you can break it off the plastic tab so both the component cable and hdmi cable can be plugged in at the same time or

Get an xbox vga cable

I didn't think the wii had hdmi out so I have no idea what you are doing there.

u/Cluster_One · 2 pointsr/windows
u/borge689 · 2 pointsr/audiophile

From what it says in the specifications, it comes with an RCA adapter? You could use the audio input from an RCA connection from this to get audio through USB. I'm currently using this particular USB DAC and it works fine. It's got left and right channels for input as well as output.

As for the loss of audio quality, I don't know much about this in the way of distortion, but I've noticed no distortion whatsoever. Somebody else, feel free to correct me if I'm wrong about this.

u/admiralteal · 2 pointsr/Android

This is a USB DAC, for example. A USB DAC is basically any kind of audio device, such as a USB sound card, headphone, or speaker.

DAC means digital to analogue converter.

u/AcidAlex303 · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

For gear demos I use one of these to record straight into my iPhone using the CCK.

Behringer UCA202 U-Control Ultra low-latency 2 In/2 Out USB/Audio Interface

If I am recording a track then I record the audio into a Zoom H1, then I master it on my Mac before importing the audio into iMovie and attaching it to the video.

You can see/hear how this turns out on my latest video

u/Janununuh · 2 pointsr/audio

You certainly can go cheaper than that. You’re just plugging in a mic/guitar/headphones yeah? If so you can use pretty much any USB interface with 2 inputs. Should be around $100;amp;psc=1

That’s your best option, the cheapest option would be to continue using your Yamaha mixer, and to connect the LINE OUT from the mixer to your computer using a cheap USB converter like this:

u/ratbut · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

i'm not sure what this is, or if it's any good, but this is what i use to bypass my laptop's shitty on-board audio.

Behringer UCA202 Audio Interface

u/thiio · 2 pointsr/battlestations

Behringer UCA202

Also, since I'm getting a lot of questions, might as well post my headphone guide

u/Rock_Me-Amadeus · 2 pointsr/DJSetups
u/nevermind4790 · 2 pointsr/vinyl

Plug the turntable into a phono preamp with USB support. Or if you already have a nice phono preamp (without USB) or your receiver has a nice phono preamp, you can use an audio interface like this one.

So, to break it down in simple terms, these good options:

Turntable -&gt; USB phono preamp

Turntable -&gt; phono preamp -&gt; USB audio interface

Turntable -&gt; stereo receiver with phono input -&gt; USB audio interface (via receiver's "Tape Out")

u/breakerfall · 2 pointsr/Nexus6P

I have this one working in my car (through an OTG adapter):

Still looking for a hub/OTG adapter that will let me charge the phone at the same time, though.

u/Robstaaa · 2 pointsr/Beatmatch

I recently bought one of these:;amp;psc=1
Sound quality is fantastic and there is no audio delay. Would definitely recommend it

u/ZeroKarizma · 2 pointsr/podcasts

I also vouch for the Behringer XENYX 1202. It's relatively inexpensive and reasonably powerful. You'll also need one of these for USB interface:

Behringer UCA202 Audio Interface

u/mrklever · 2 pointsr/battlestations

That's the amp! The speakers are Pioneer SP-BS41-LR and the stands are Sanus NF36B. There's also a Behringer DAC that I've hidden on the left side of the cable rack.

u/mailor · 2 pointsr/audiophile

your boses will probably not benefit from the amplifier but that won't hurt either.

also have a look at things like this one, they're pretty popular around here.

u/paracog · 2 pointsr/reasoners

Hi; if you have powered speakers, a simple device like this one, which I've used for years with no problem, should suffice:;amp;psc=1

u/Freezerburn · 2 pointsr/audiophile

If you have a question about a youtube video check the description. I'll be nice and spoon feed you like a child.

&gt; Published on Aug 7, 2013

&gt;MUSIC STARTS AT 7:25 .. A mostly in-depth look at my makeshift 2.2 setup. (Lots of Annotation Corrections and Details) May not be repeatable without the exact parts found here. Which makes it one of a kind. Cheap speaker builders of the internet. I challenge thee.

&gt;Like always recorded with a GoPro Hero3 : and a Tascam DR-40 (Slightly over-modulated in this video) all of it dubbed over in Audacity. Here is the Behringer DAC I can't praise enough and the NEW daytons that are 96% as good as these old Dayton B652's . Everything else is vintage or non-existent like the Design Acoustics PS-SW10 sub and the Pioneer VSX-D1S Receiver.

&gt;Join my damn Ventrilo - port 8701

u/jensyfrenzy · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I used an analog USB sound card (specifically, this one).

u/Proper_Refrigerator · 2 pointsr/pocketoperators

Well I record my PO-20 using this interface and this wire. It's all worked perfectly well for me.

u/itsthevoiceman · 2 pointsr/AskMen

We've got kind of an array of equipment, as our studio isn't funded too well. Fortunately, we got an upgrade a few years ago, and we've got some nice stuff to work with:

u/evilpirateguy · 2 pointsr/Guitar

If just want to play into you computer, the quarter to eighth inch jack will certainly work. However, if you want improved audio quality you can purchase, as mentioned by the guy above me, and audio converter that plugs in via USB to you computer. The two leading units are probably the scarlet 2i2 or the audiobox usb. They both pretty much do the same thing.

u/scnickel · 2 pointsr/Guitar

You can probably get a used Presonus Audiobox USB within your budget:

I have one and it's been solid. The most budget friendly option would be that or something similar and headphones. The computer will not handle the amplification. If you try to output through your pc sound card, there will be a slight delay. If you plug pc multimedia speakers into the interface, it's not going to sound good. You'll either need studio monitors or headphones.

u/Styrant · 2 pointsr/edmproduction - Cheapest external soundcard (US Link).
edited parts list

  • added a gpu (750 ti)
  • 1x 256gb ssd (instead of 2x 128gb ssds; 1 256gb ssd was cheaper)

  • Changed processor to non-k for price and motherboard
  • removed cpu fan, processor comes with stock fan
  • got cheaper memory 16gb (your motherboard couldn't support 3200 memory)

    total is about the same as before.
u/DavidLean · 2 pointsr/makinghiphop

You can do this in FL, but if you're starting out, I think FL is about the most confusing DAW to record audio tracks into. Audacity is free and will work fine. If you want something more polished, Reaper is easy to use, free to try for 2 months, and $60 for a full license—worth trying out.


But, like /u/BartonPatrick says, you're going to want an audio interface between your mic and your computer. If you buy a new audio interface, a lot of them will come with a basic DAW—so look into that first.

u/AliceWolff · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

Would this device work for amplifying three headphones? I remember it worked pretty well in Music Production class in high school with this interface. I need it to be able to connect to that (I have an RCA to 1/4" jack adapter) for near-zero latency listening to playback from live instruments.

u/MasterVamp · 2 pointsr/pcgaming

First, sorry for bad english.

I think you misunderstood the noise canceling feature, your headsets cancel noise from getting into your ears, not your microphone.

I live in a very busy avenue in my country, and i have a similar problem. Mic was picking up cars and stuff from the street. Your best chance to avoid this noise is getting the mic closer to your mouth, reduce the volume (or sensitivity from your mic) and speak louder. thats why i prefer headsets instead of regular desktop (or tripode) mics.

if reducing the volume and getting the mic closer doesnt work, you probably need a better mic.

After searching for a long time i find the best price-value "noise cancelling" mic is the audio Technica BPHS1. But it isnt usb (it is xlr) and you need a audio USB interface to use it in your pc. This headset is designed to use in sport breadcast, in very loud enviroments.

Link to the headset:;amp;qid=1412137022&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=bphs1

Created especially for on-air news and sports broadcasting, announcing &amp; interviews, this rugged stereo headset offers natural, highly intelligible and focused vocal reproduction, closed-back circumaural (around-the-ear) ear cups to seal out background noise, and a high-output dynamic microphone mounted on a flexible gooseneck boom. The headset's microphone has a cardioid polar pattern tailored for pickup of speech with maximum voice intelligibility over a wide range of frequencies. It is more sensitive to sound originating directly in front of the element, making it useful in reducing pickup of unwanted sounds. The flexible gooseneck boom swivels for easy positioning on either the right or left side.

Link to the audio interface I use:;amp;qid=1412137064&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=audio+box+usb

After switching to this headset i cant hear almost any unwanted noise. I even apologise for a loud truck of something but people cant hear anything :).

But be carefoul, the speakers arent that good as others gaming headsets, but i think it is the best solution for your problem.

Hope it helps! Sorry again for bad english, im still learning a lot of stuff and my keyboard doesnt helps :c.

u/unicorn_defender · 2 pointsr/audio

First, I'd like to point out that in your situation it would be redundant to run your mic through the mixer and then through another interface (unless your mixer has incredibly awesome pre-amps, which is something I'd argue most Behringer products lack).

If I were you, I'd ditch the $10 mic for a used SM58, and the Behringer usb mixer for a decent cheap interface like the PreSonus Audiobox, or if your budget permits, something from the Focusrite family.

That said, you may be able to increase your sound quality 10 fold just by upgrading the mic and leaving the XENYX. I don't have any experience with either of those products, but they are by brands I would warn any newcomer to steer clear from. Good luck!

u/mintorment · 2 pointsr/PS4

Quality seems great, I use it with an AT2020 mic and from what I can tell it sounds really nice.

My Audiobox looks almost exactly like that, but doesn't say '96' and has a few other very slight differences (I'm guessing that one supports up to 96kHz sample rate while mine only supports 44.1k or 48k). See here for the one I've got. I would imagine the 96 would work too, but I can't say for certain.

u/audiotecnicality · 2 pointsr/audio

Buy a USB audio interface like the Presonus Audiobox.

u/Nautical_operator · 2 pointsr/Guitar

Of course, although I don't claim to be any expert in microphones or anything. I just have an [AT3035] condenser mic with a Presonus firestudio project as an interface plugged into my iMac via Firewire. I like to have lots of inputs, which is why I got one with 8, but you'd probably only need one. I'd check out the presonus audiobox as its cheap and simple, and uses USB.

u/SedateApe · 2 pointsr/ffxiv

First off, make sure you have a decent soundcard. My laptop's soundcard is balls so I use an external audio interface -the difference is huge. If your soundcard isn't up to snuff, look at grabbing something like this. You can get them used (or other versions) for cheaper, and they're a good utility to have around. You can also look for simple USB DAC (Digital to Analog Converter).

For speakers, if you want really good sound, look for powered speakers, they have built in amps to drive them so that you don't need to worry about an external amp hanging out on your desk. I use reference monitors, these have an excellent frequency range and soundstage that's hard to produce with a two-way desktop speaker otherwise. These are what I use currently, and you'd be hard pressed to find something cheaper that can produce the same sound. Also of note are the Rockit 5's at about the same price point. These are pretty future proof, if that's your thing. The next step up from a setup like this would be a sizable chunk of money more.

Of course, this is just my opinion, so take it with a grain of salt and all that. This focuses largely on clarity of sound, frequency range, and small footprint at this specific price range. There are certainly other setups that use subwoofers, forgo DACs, etc.

This setup will, at the very least, blow the Klipsch speakers you have listed out of the proverbial water, but the extra cost is there. If you have the money, I'd buy better speakers now, rather than upgrade in the future when you decide yours aren't doing it for you anymore.

u/goingTofu · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

I got the Presonus AudioBox a couple months ago and I'm very pleased with it. Definitely would recommend it. I don't do dance music, but if you want an idea of how the preamps sound, here is example of something I did. (SM57 on a guitar amp straight to the Audiobox)

u/tycoonking1 · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Cheapest option would probably be to get a cheap Audio Interface like this, find a free DAW (I use ableton, they have a free version that would work for your needs but any should work), then learn enough about the DAW to add backing tracks and stuff.

u/tcookc · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Having two mics is a good call, but instead of recording vocals and guitar together, I'd would HIGHLY suggest recording your guitar in stereo with both mics and your vocal in mono with one mic (performed separately). When I started out, I used AT2020's which are very affordable and will sound okay until you're able to upgrade to something better.
Also, Reaper is a steal at $60. Use the trial version for a while and see if you like it...comes complete with all the basic, entry-level plug-ins that you'll need.
You'll also need an interface and a good pair of mixing headphones. Good luck!

u/xeonoex · 2 pointsr/audio

The AudioBox is in my price range, but the only advantage seems to be the MIDI in and outs. Is there an upside to running a keyboard through the USB interface rather than straight to the PC via a MIDI to USB cable? I will be doing almost everything on the PC anyways right?

I was looking at Reaper actually. I've used various software like Sonar, Audacity, Reason, some Cakewalk products, and Project 5, but I haven't really done recording. I think this will be the first software I try.

u/barbequeninja · 2 pointsr/Music

I've bought all this and your estimated are way high.

My setup:
Audiobox USB: $149

Behringer condenser: $94

Behringer stereo mics: $58

2x XLR, 2x 1/4" cables: $20 or so monoprice

Stand: $35 (local shop)
Midi keyboard: $50 used off eBay

Headphones: $50 closed ear

Well under $500 for a good setup that lets me record electric, vocals, accoustic, and my piano.

u/polymonic · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

I did this with a Tascam 424 by getting 2 Behringer U-Control UCA-222's ($60 for a pair) and creating an Aggregate Audio Device on my Mac.

This way each of the 4 outputs was sent to their own dedicated track in Logic Pro X and I could mix it as I'd like in Logic.

u/findingejk · 2 pointsr/Beatmatch

Also consider:

Behringer U-Control UCA222 Ultra-Low Latency 2 In/2 Out USB Audio Interface with Digital Output

As an option. I have it and it works great to give an rca interface to the PC, you can then "listen to" this USB input on any of your connected output devices whether that be 5.1 aux cables or USB headset or literally any of your output devices.

u/bornrevolution · 2 pointsr/DJs

well, i figured this out, i think, if you're curious to know.

it seems OBS will recognize any audio device that your computer can, however it will only listen to channels 1 and 2 of whatever mixer you're using. you can sort of hardware-hack around this, by routing an rca-to-rca cable from the record out to the channel 1's in, thus making your audio heard within OBS, however you lose out on an entire channel just for this purpose.

i decided to get an extremely cheap usb/rca device, which will do the trick a lot more efficiently and will save me the channel i need.

this was the only video that actually shed some light on my situation.

u/bassist_human · 2 pointsr/Bass

I'm not familiar with Massive, but I can help with getting your bass signal to your pc.

As a first option, there are 1/4" guitar USB devices sold expressly for this purpose. Behringer makes the cheapest one I know of: Behringer UCG-102. Ran across it while looking for a general purpose USB audio interface, but I didn't buy it because of the reviews complaining about the drivers. There's a $30 Mac cable I've seen used, too, but I don't know if anyone has PC or linux drivers for it. There are a lot of others, most of which start around $100 that I've seen. The Native Instruments one runs several hundred $$, I think.

I have a cheap jerry-rigged method that suits my needs, though. If you have a desktop pc, a DI pedal, or a better soundcard than usual, you might be able to do something like this more easily, but this is what I threw together one day after picking up the ground-isolator and USB audio interface for other purposes:

1/4"-to-3.5mm adapter into the headphone-out of amp, then a 3.5mm-to-RCA converter on top of that. Ground-loop-isolator (mine has RCA inputs and outputs, hence the converters) from that into the USB audio interface. I'm using the Behringer UCA-222. The interface connects to the PC via USB, or course.

Two things worth noting: 1) you'll probably want to install "ASIO4ALL" drivers to decrease latency times on this or similar USB audio interfaces and 2) you may not need a ground loop isolator, depending on your hardware. I'm using a laptop in this setup, and if it's plugged in then there's some interference. Easy way to check: while the pc's plugged in, if you can output your pc's audio to the Line In on your amp without hearing static, you probably don't need a ground loop isolator.

Hope that helps.

u/YouShouldBeProud · 2 pointsr/headphones

My motherboard has ALC892 and upgrading to a DAC has a significant improvement in my system, even the cheapest DACs sound better. But depending on your mobo implementation of that chip, and your PSU etc, YMMV. Sound card is still in your case so any EMI you may hear with your mobo sound will likely still be there, better to buy a external DAC like this one:

u/_shadow_banned_ · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

So what's the application? Is this at home? How do you want to control it? You can get a Raspberry Pi and install PiCore There are DAC that rival anything available. You can get the HiFiBerry DAC/AMP and plug in a USB drive. Play all your music off that. Control it with your phone.

The Audiosource is a nice amp, and the ELAC are great. I am not a huge fan of the Fiio, it's nice, but it's not very robust. I have had better luck with those cheap Behringer UCA 222

u/podheadrod · 2 pointsr/podcasts

I use that mixer for my podcast. Bought it off Craigslist for 40 bucks about four years ago and it's still going strong. It gets the job done and I really have no need to upgrade. But like others have said:

  • Don't record with an onboard soundcard. You'll pick up a ton of static (I learned the hard way).

  • If you can save up for a USB mixer it's probably a better choice.

    But like I said, that's the mixer I use, granted I didn't pay $90 for it. The way I'm able to record to my PC is with this Behringer USB audio interface. Sure it's a lot more cables, but it was a much cheaper alternative back when I was starting up and didn't have the funds for a USB mixer. I would check your local craigslist or eBay for some used Behringer or Mackie mixers, both are built to last and there are some great deals to be had. Spend the extra money you save on better mics and you'll be on your way. If you're the paranoid type you can always invest in a digital recorder for back up, since someone else mentioned there's always a risk the program or PC will crash. Hasn't happened to me yet, but you never know. Be sure to let us know when your first episode is up!
u/i_dont_know · 2 pointsr/computertechs

You're asking this question in the wrong sub, but what you want is a low-latency audio interface. The Behringer UCA222 is an inexpensive USB option. I haven't used that interface (I use an Apogee Duet), but the specifications look good for the price and the reviews are mostly positive.

That $30 audio interface should work much better than an old sound card.

u/spinal2k · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I use this to avoid using the 3.5mm jack on the switch.;amp;keywords=beringer+usb+audio&amp;amp;qid=1569309803&amp;amp;s=gateway&amp;amp;sprefix=beringher+usb%2Caps%2C157&amp;amp;sr=8-8

I have absolutely no problems with the "sleep mode" hiss that you mention (no need to disconnect) and it's better sound quality IMO.

My setup isn't that different from yours, I have a mixer and a focusrite saffire 6 USB. You combine everything at the focusrite level, I do it at the mixer level (in my case, there's a reason for this that is unrelated to the switch). Some sound sources I don't want them to go through the DAC, so they go straight to the mixer.

u/evilmonk99 · 2 pointsr/Reaper

Depends on your price range. I started with a Behringer UCA222 then upgraded via a Steinberg UR-22 which broke after a while. Now I'm using a Behringer UMC404HD which has lasted well so far. You could go for the smaller version, which is surprisingly cheap, if you don't plan on recording many instruments at the same time.

People say good things about the Focusrite Scarlett series as well. I've never used one but they are a little bit more pricey than the Behringers so I always end up with one of them instead.

u/txby432 · 2 pointsr/Beatmatch

Depends in the controller. I got the Numark Mixtrack Pro as my first controller. It has a mix input and I use it with virtual DJ, which has a built in recording option. If you don't have that option, Behringer has a great external sound card that will give you RCA inputs in your computer to use a free program like audacity to record. Won't be studio, but will work.

u/sharkamino · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Behringer U-Control UCA222 USB DAC $30, may be all that you may need.

u/marssaxman · 2 pointsr/Beatmatch

I played on a Mixtrack Pro for years - bought it as a cheap experiment, figuring I'd upgrade when it wore out, and then it just... didn't wear out. I ended up playing quite a lot of gigs with it. It was really nice to have a cheap indestructible controller I could throw in a bag and take out to a warehouse or some forest or whatever.

Only thing the non-Pro Mixtrack is missing is a sound card, which would let you have a separate headphone cue output from the master output. But for $40, what have you got to lose? Try it out. You'll probably have a good time. If you like it, buy a sound card, or buy a better controller. I think it's a good plan.

u/pink__sky · 2 pointsr/pocketoperators
u/the_cody · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

To be able to hear it on your computer, you will need an audio interface, or, an audio input on your built-in sound. If your computer is a desktop and you have external speakers that are driven by audio out (and not usb) and are powered (aren't passive), you could just get a Stereo to Left+Right cable to plug the Microkorg into. If the speakers are passive (don't plug into power), you will need and amp to boost the signal from line level out to speaker level (or it will be very quiet).

To be able to control FL Studio / have FL Studio control the Microkorg, you will need a midi interface.

Something like the PreSonus Audiobox USB is a great 2 In x 2 Out Audio and 1 In x 1 Out Midi interface ($100 at Sweetwater. You can get cheaper midi and audio interfaces, but I wouldn't trust them all that much ... personal opinion ... though for starting out, it might not be a bad idea to test the waters as it were.

u/ProgHog231 · 2 pointsr/Bass

I suspect you're not going to have much luck trying to plug straight into the mic input for your sound card.

You really need some sort of audio interface. Depending on how strict your budget is, maybe something like this Behringer. I have a slightly different model of this and it works OK. If you need something even cheaper, then one of the generic 1/4-inch to USB (often marketed as 'Rocksmith' cables), could do (about USD 10), but you could run into quality and compatibility issues, in which case your money might be wasted.

Once you have audio, your speakers will probably sound like crud, but at least you'll have some sound. If you have some decent headphones, you could listen through them. Either way, keep the volume reasonable.

u/PoopyButt_Childish · 2 pointsr/Beatmatch

I used THIS usb audio interface for recording and it worked well enough for what you want to do. You record into Audacity by setting the input to USB. A separate mic input is not needed. I used it on an older MacBook Pro.

u/moonlightmelody · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

holy shit, thank you so much for the explanation and the link - that helped me out a TON in even understanding what i'm getting into.... so basically, i have everything from 5-7 (i got beyerdynamics dt 770 pros a while ago), what i need is the others and an audio interface ... question: is it problematic to buy a cheap audio interface for my purposes (like, say, ) ?

and, since i can get a new beyerdynamics m99 for 300€ (im from europe), would you say thats an alternative of the same quality to the shure sm7b (which would cost 80 euroes more)? i'm trying to get the entire package for 500 euroes. my current setup is an usb microphone, so i'll need to get all the gear.

u/seezed · 2 pointsr/GlobalOffensive

Unless you need the extra ports and utility, higher price doesn't increase audio quality only functionality.

My best purchase in recent time was a BEHRINGER U-CONTROL UCA222.

u/MHMoose · 2 pointsr/piano

Here is how I can hear both my computer sound and Yamaha P71 sound through my headphones.

  1. I bought this device on Amazon.

  2. I bought this cable on Amazon.

  3. For the cable, the stereo end goes into your keyboard, the two RCA plugs go into the device above.

  4. The device above connects to your computer to a USB port.

  5. Your headphones plug into the device. You can then hear your keyboard and computer at the same time, like if you wanted to play along to a backing track on YouTube or something.

    Hopefully that is helpful. Took me a while to figure out but it works really well.
u/sfish · 2 pointsr/VaporwaveMiniDiscs

Yes, there are at least three options (maybe more I am not familiar with). If you purchase an external audio interface with a USB -&gt; Toslink digital path (like the Behringer U-Control UCA222), and an appropriate cable, you can transfer all the digital audio content you want in real time from your computer to your MZ-N505. Then you'd need to place your own track marks and name the tracks manually. With NetMD software running on a PC, you can transfer WAV files directly to an MD at LP quality and naming files is much easier. There is more modern software for Windows, Mac, and Linux that can afford SP transfers and which also automates file naming, but you'll need to be comfortable with a command line interface. Setting up any of this is a little outside my ability to support directly, but there are many tutorials online to be found if you look/ask around.

u/LstrCk · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

Check out the Mackie Onyx Blackjack. Has 60dB of gain but apparently the drivers might be a bit average. One of the reviews said he was using a Heil PR40 which is similar in sensitivity to the ProCaster.

What is your budget? It seems most people get a CloudLifter with the ProCaster in general anyway.

u/LiarCityBrian · 2 pointsr/Guitar

Awesome. You really can't go wrong with those microphones.

As far as interfaces go, I've used a whole bunch over the years, from Focusrite to Tascam, single input to 18X24. For the last two years, I've been using a small, inexpensive one with my laptop for my podcast, and it's so good and has so much clean headroom that I've been using it for guitar and bass too. It's a Mackie Onyx Blackjack.

It's also angled, so it's sleek as hell. I wholeheartedly recommend it. Here's an Amazon link.

Listen to a couple minutes of my show to get a sense of just how clean these inputs are.

I don't know how expensive the Scarlett you're looking at is, but 90 bucks for this thing is a steal. The beauty of this stuff now is that there's very few wrong things to buy, even at the low end. That wasn't true even a few years ago. It's a real golden age for bedroom recording.


Link screwed up. Fixed it.

u/cphuntington97 · 2 pointsr/Guitar

Mackie Onyx Blackjack

I like Onyx pres.

u/Mantelmann · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

If you have money at your disposal, use This. You can put it on top of your desk and simply switch jacks when needed. It sounds tedious, but it's better than to crawl under your desk. Also, you can have multiple audio sources and can configure bass levels.

u/FullmentalFiction · 2 pointsr/audiobooks

Use either an analog mic into a mixer or a usb mic with built in monitoring, then use headphones to hear the mix during your recording session. You can find a cheap usb audio most for about $50, I use the Behringer xenyx 302usb, for example. You'll find that these tend to give better audio recording quality than a standard mic in port as well, since they are usually shielded better and build to a higher quality standard.

u/CBarberena · 2 pointsr/Guitar

Okay then what I would do is buy a guitar headphone amp they are cheap like less then $20 USD, and plug it into the out for the fx loop, and your headphones into that. This only utilizes the preamp portion of you amp but it is probably the most cost effective. If you do this and the guitar headphone amp has a gain option turn that all the way down. A similar option to this would be to plug your fx out into a DAW or some kind of audio mixer this would also give you the option to record yourself on a computer without being effected by room acoustics. If you want to you can use the other output but that will damage your headphones unless you buy a line level converter. Then the analog from the converter to a headphone amp, and from there to your headphones. This would require you to do some simple wireing, but hey if your up for it why not try.
I also want you to make sure you know the people on this thread including me are NOT professionals and you should do you own research and only do what you feel comfortable doing with your money and equipment.
If you would like to do more research here is a good place to start.
Also here are links to example of the things I mentioned
Guitar headphone amp - Monoprice 611500 Mini Headphone Amplifier for Guitar, Clean
Electro-Harmonix Headphone Amp Portable Practice Amp
DAW - Focusrite Scarlett Solo (2nd Gen) USB Audio Interface with Pro Tools | First
Mixer - Behringer Xenyx 302USB Mixer
Line level converter - PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out Converter
Hope I helped in some way and hope you find your solution!

u/HanSoloBolo · 2 pointsr/CasualConversation

I'm partial to Behringer tech so I'd recommend [this] (;amp;qid=1524521333&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=xlr+interface) or [this] (;amp;qid=1524521333&amp;amp;sr=8-10&amp;amp;keywords=xlr+interface) if you're planning to record alone. If you're going to have guests, I used the [XENYX Q1202] (;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1524521461&amp;amp;sr=1-1&amp;amp;keywords=Behringer+XENYX+Q1202) for a long time and it served me well.

Social media and promotion is hard, but necessary if you want to build a listenership. I'd recommend tweeting about more than JUST links to your show. I don' think anyone wants to follow an account that's all about self promotion. My shows are all comedy podcasts so I lucked out in that I can just throw out dumb jokes/observations all day and people enjoy them. For a more serious show, it's a bit harder.

To get started, follow a bunch of people that follow shows similar to yours, wait a week, unfollow anyone who hasn't followed you back, then follow a bunch more. If people post things you like, interact with them. Retweet, respond, whatever. It's basically about building a community. I've built up 1,200 followers doing all that, which is puny next to my podcast listenership, but it's nice to have a place to let people know what I'm up to.

Also to build a podcast audience, guest on a bunch of shows that are similar to yours. Guest on science podcasts, have them on yours, promote it on Twitter, etc. I've had different guests on all the time over the last few years and it's really helped me build a big international audience in Australia and the UK, reaching people who never would have heard my show otherwise.

u/rowanthenerd · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

Yes, a mixer is required if you want both. I presumed you wanted to just hear audio from whichever device without re plugging the headphones, which is a common request.

There are tiny mixers that would be suitable to your application.
I'd go for something like this:

This lets you take line in from your PC via USB, which will be marginally better than using its line out, and you would plug in your PS4 using a cable that ends in 2x RCA. It also allows you to use your headset with 1/8" cables directly (including the mic!), provided you get a TRRS to dual TRS adaptor.

I was originally going to recommend the Behringer micromix discussed elsewhere in this thread, but it's a 4 to 1 mono mixer, so not what you want.

u/LapisNLazuli · 2 pointsr/Twitch

XLR mics with phantom power for the win! If you're going for professional quality sound, save your money and invest in a good XLR mic.


The problem with USB mics like Blue Yeti is the fact that they use the integrated sound on your computer's motherboard. If your motherboard's sound system is older (2 years or older), the voice from the USB mic could sound robotic or it might not capture your entire voice range. This is especially a problem for folks with deeper voices. On older computers, you might sound far away or your voice could break up. If you have a brand new computer, feel free to use a USB mic until you can afford an XLR microphone.

XLR microphones require phantom power. Scarlet Focusrite ( is a good product for phantom power, but there are affordable, good quality sound mixers that provide phantom power as well. Alot of streamers have used Berhinger Xenyx 302 ( or Berhinger Xenyx 502 ( I personally use Roland VT-3 ( because it's a voice changer, sound mixer, noise gate, and phantom power all mixed into one machine.


For mics, I admit I'm using a cheap Pyle PDMIC58 . (Hey, I got this XLR mic for free with my Best Buy points. I didn't have enough points for a good mic). My problem with the mic is that it's too bright for my voice, and I have a low voice for a woman. I need something that captures my full voice range alot better. I'm planning to upgrade to a RODE NT-1 mic (Not the Rode NT-1A) before the end of the year.

Like others have stated, take your time and do research. Don't rush! Find the mic that fits your voice best. Good luck!

u/Rollonmath42 · 2 pointsr/Rockband

Here's the mixer I'm using with the cables unplugged, this (I think) is it on Amazon. For power I have it plugged into my computer via USB, although when I first started using the mixer with Rock Band, I just had it plugged in via a power outlet.

These are the two cables I use for plugging in the kit and PS4 controller. Here's the mixer with the cables plugged in. The middle white and red RCA cables are plugged into the AV receiver, which is a Sony STR-DG820 (my dad purchased it years ago and just had it laying around somewhere).

Under the Quick Menu &gt; Sound/Devices on the PS4, this setting has to be put on All Audio so that way when you plug in the controller, it'll route all game audio to the mixer.

Here's a video of how it sounds with me playing through bits of In Waves, Snow (Hey Oh), and Sulfur. Before playing Snow, I swapped the aux cords so the ReTrak cable is connected to controller and the other to the kit since for some reason the audio for the guitar riff that plays throughout most of the song can't be heard when I have them the way I mentioned above. Besides that, it all comes together pretty well. Hope this all helps.

Edit: fixed swap mentioned at bottom.

u/edinc90 · 2 pointsr/Filmmakers

Assuming you already have a camera, you need everything from the camera output until it hits the interwebz.

Magewell HDMI or SDI USB capture device. It shows up as a UVC device (like a webcam, no drivers necessary) on Macs and Windows.

You also need a way to get audio into the computer. Cheapest way: Behringer 302USB. No drivers for this either. One mic input, one RCA stereo input.

For the computer, you need something relatively powerful. A modern mid-spec notebook will work. Make sure it has USB3. For software, OBS. It's free.

You need internet also (duh.) Wired when possible, best to bring a long CAT5 cable with you. If there's no internet in the venue, I've had success with cell hotspots.

u/ErroneousDylan · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I'm just using a dynamic XLR mic and an audio interface that I had sitting around since I do some studio work. Also a boomstand behind the table.


Mic: Shure SM48

u/ScouseLite · 2 pointsr/mixer

Generally speaking, the more software you use, the more things can mess up when trying to link them into OBS. I personally never recommend software mixers just as they have a nasty habit of screwing up when live.

One thing I can't stress enough when it comes to audio, don't go too cheap! Fundamentally, you do have to spend a little bit to get a setup that works. An entry level audio setup will still set you back around $100.

For entry setups I'd recommend looking at the Neewer kits on Amazon. They do need a phantom power source too, yet they're still better than using a basic headset mic. From there, with them being all XLR based, you can use essentially any usb mixer you want. Behringer have a huge range of these with USB output to hook them into PC, starting around $40 too.

u/Arve · 2 pointsr/audiophile

If you want to connect multiple units to your speakers, a passive volume control is not really an option. In that case, you are left with two options:

  1. Mixer
  2. Hi-fi pre-amp

    The - by far - cheapest option here is the Behringer 302 mixer, which includes an USB audio interface (which I suspect is the same as the UCA-202). While it's not something I would actually use for producing music, it's going to work well for the price and the use you are suggesting.

    In this case, you would be connecting the phono stage/preamp to the "line in" on the 302, and your Audioengines to the "main mix" outputs using regular RCA cable.

    Alternatively, there is the Q502USB, which has an extra pair of inputs so you could connect an MP3 player or TV as well.

    The Behringer options are both available in Australia from Galactic Music Australia, and prices are 59 and 79 AUD, respectively.

    With that being said, mixers aren't particularly pretty, and there are pre-amps out there that would be better, but then you should be prepared to spend the entire $300 budget on it, if you're buying new.

    Do you have an Aussie equivalent to Craigslist? If you post that, /r/audiophile has been known to search classifieds for good bargains.
u/MrEleventy · 2 pointsr/headphones

Unplug from PS4 and plug into PC.

If you want everything plugged into one central location, then you're going to have to look at buying a mixer and experiment with the wiring yourself.

u/BobLoblasLawBlog · 2 pointsr/Twitch

If you're on a budget
This mixer with this mic and this stand

The mic is a dynamic as opposed to a condenser (and on amazon comes with a free cable) So it won't pick up background noise nearly as bad as a condenser (especially the yeti) would, and the stand comes with a pop filter. When you decide to upgrade the mic, you can buy an inline phantom power box for like 20 bucks (the unit only has 15v, which isn't enough for most condensers) if you decide to go the condenser route down the road.

u/Yentihs · 2 pointsr/vinyl

This is what I use so my speakers work with both my PC and my turntable at the same time;amp;psc=1

I have my PC set to to a DAC and this mixers allows for inputs from both the turntable and the DAC. This all then goes to the output (speakers)

u/Exos9 · 2 pointsr/Twitch
u/cdargis · 2 pointsr/Guitar

Have you thought about micing your amp? I much prefer this method over using "line outputs". You can pick up an SM57 and an audio interface for a decent price off Amazon. This way you can setup your computer to play audio through the interface (and into headphones) when recording.

As far as the delay in Audacity, you can set up "Latency correction" in "Edit -&gt; Preferences -&gt; Audio I/O".

u/Novux · 2 pointsr/macsetups

The mixer is a Behringer 302 USB, it's affordable and versatile. I use my mic primarily for communication, but it could be used for music vocals recording.

Got the lamp 8+ years ago from Wal Mart, sorry!

u/morjax · 2 pointsr/letsplay

Note that acoustic treatment is typically much less important for dynamic mics than for condenser mics :) It's a little trickier for multiple person commentary (as you sort of need a dynamic mic per person, which means probably XLR over USB, but you'll be saving on sound treatment, so there's that). Something like a Focusrite scarlett 2i2 interface with two ATR2100 mics or two Shure SM58 mics (SM58s are tanks, and are usually in great quality when gotten used).

Joint commentary is tricky. You can either do a shutgun mic, or condenser and try to manage unwanted noises, or you can go the multiple dynamics route, which should give a very good signal-to-noise ratio.

u/jejetteaway · 2 pointsr/reasoners

I have Reason 7 and a Mac Book (13 inch, non retina, 2012). Everything is just fine and projects from Reason 3 can be used with no problem.

When I was buying a Mac Book the retina was like $600 more than the base model so I went with that, and I'm glad I did. You don't need a retina display to make music.

Also I use an external display, so I never even open the Mac (actually I could probably have just bought a mac mini and it would be the same).

So, you're an careful - just get a limited rig and then start making music. Do NOT start reading about everything that's available, your engineering brain will take over and you'll never get around to making music - instead you'll just fall into gear acquisition syndrome.

I would also advise getting the following:

A bluetooth Mac keyboard, a blue tooth mouse, and 4 or 8 rechargeable AA batteries (the batteries are key), and an external display.

For monitors a pair of Jbl LSR305. These seem to be the best "bang for your buck" monitors and in online reviews people will not shut up about how good they sound for $150. Avoid Rokits.

As for midi, I'd say get a good midi keyboard and a good set of drum pads. If you want cheap and easy I'd go for a nanoPad2
If you want something a bit more involved (and actually this is what you should get) go for the padKontrol

You'll need keys. Since you say you're a composer you'll need at least 49 keys (61 and 88 are obviously better, and best). When I was buying stuff the MPK49 was pretty much the best thing you could get (except for the pads). The MPK249 is coming out soon and supposedly has better pads, but we'll see.

And finally an audio interface. I have an Echo Audiofire4 which isn't made anymore (btw it's fucking awesome so if you can find one used, do it). It seems the focusrite 2i2 is the most popular choice among newbies...personally I'd go for something with more inputs. RME and MOTU seem to the best but you'll pay a lot more (though in the long run it's worth it).

I would also say, go slow. There are a ton of cheap midi controllers (like $50-$100) so just get one, see what you like and move on from there. DO NOT cheap out on your audio interface. Your audio interface is the most important part of the whole chain.

So, Reason 7 on a Mac and an external display/mouse/keyboard, some keys and pads, an audio interface, and a good pair of monitors and you're set.

Hope this helps.

u/xnoybis · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Plenty of people will encourage you to get a focusrite scarlett 2i2. At 150, it's a great purchase, and will be far cleaner (in terms of sound quality) than running a USB mic, especially if you're using a laptop (even with an SD, laptops introduce a fair amount of noise). This is what we'll call your AI, or Audio Interface.

Next, you need a mic. Starting out, I'd recommend you look around on craigslist for some used mics, read up on them, then snap up something simple. That said, plenty of people use SM58s. They're reliable studio workhorses. At 100 (far less if used) new, they're fantastic. Next you'll need an XLR cable for the mic (~10$), and a 1/4" TRS for the guitar (she probably already has one for an amp). The scarlett supports 2 ins (both can be 1/4" TRS or XLR), so she can record herself playing guitar and singing simultaneously. So you're currently out 260. You might also consider getting a decent pair of closed ear headphones for monitoring (cheaper than actual monitors), but many people will argue on this point. Decent closed ear headphones are very expensive (~270 and up), but this may be going beyond your present needs. Let me know if this helps.

u/MisterKpak · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Currently using the AT2020, running through the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2

This is actually the same audio interface I installed in a radio production studio, and is essentially the same setup minus the in-my-case-unnecessary sound board, just without the electrovoice RE20

u/ThreeKon · 2 pointsr/battlestations

I love them, I use to use them for my DJ setup downstairs and recording. I use this They sound great though. If you were going to go with studio monitors, these are a great cheap option. I still prefer yamaha monitors though, thats why I have those downstairs for my DJ equipment =)

u/theroarer · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Nope, it would absolutely be perfect. Get a Scarlett 2i2 to start you off with a really nice, but basic set-up.

You can gradually move on from there.

Even just buying a second microphone, like a dynamic mic for other applications (plug for a SM57 clone) would make your versitility unbeatable on a budget.

You will learn a ton, and achieve pretty great sound if you work hard.

u/andonato · 2 pointsr/Guitar

How about a recording interface? I'm asking for this.

u/Jakecore · 2 pointsr/battlestations

I can only imagine that the PAD would shut them up. If your that concerned about picking up background noise in an open mic setting the only way I see to go about it is to have an audio interface (I have the modestly priced scarlett2i2 which has wonderfully warm sounding preamps) and then a mic that hooks up via 1/4 inch or XLR. In which case you cant go wrong with a blue spark ( Which I love or even something cheaper. Ive had a couple apex mics around the 100 dollar mark that actually sounded quite nice as well.

EDIT-I can't spell

u/Skitch_n_Sketch · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Let's start by breaking down some terms and what gear you need.

Assuming you're using a computer as a source, we start with a DAC. Your computer will have one built in, but external ones may be more transparent or perhaps just have more features you need. The DAC takes the 1's and 0's from you computer and turn it into a weak analog signal.

All speakers require an amplifier (amp) which amplifies the signal from your DAC. These are what will be powering your speakers. Active / Studio speakers generally have the amplifier built into the speaker, while passive speakers require an external amplifier.

There's a couple of difference ways to add headphones into the mix, but a Audio Interface is likely the easiest way to switch between the two. If your headphones require an amp as well, something like a Schitt Fulla 2 acts as a DAC, Headphone amp, and has line out to control the volume of your speakers.

u/munkomanko · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

Shit, so I just gotta get this here thingamabob? I'm down, absolutely.

ELI5: If I get this doodlygadget, (plus a audio cable, right?) then I will have the capability to: hear the sounds that I can hear right now on the monologue, directly on Logic Pro X. And to do that, I would need to: plug in the MIDI cable that I already have, AND plug in the audio cable, THROUGH the doodlygizmo, and then plug THAT into the computer. Am I correct? So do I actually need two more cords, to send audio through the interface and then into the computer?

Man I am in over my head

But I have so many ideas for cool music I gotta do this

u/FinalRed · 2 pointsr/podcasts

Not sure how you're able to speak while monitoring with latency, it's incredibly distracting. In fact, this is how speech jamming works.

Like /u/JeamBim pointed out, you need an interface which has direct monitoring of audio before it goes to your computer (such as the Scarlett 2i2)

The cheapest option would be to not use headphones at all but if you need to hear audio from your computer, you'll need to get something to monitor.

u/TheReveller · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Hey, I'm kinda in the same boat, I'm going to buy some Monitors, and I need something for the PC to make it worth it. I'm sure your PC already has some kind of sound card, but I'm guessing it's just got a 3.5 mm stereo jack.

You could get a splitter e.g.:;amp;cm_re=3.5mm_rca-_-9SIA8N23HS1217-_-Product

Then you need to convert the RCA to TRS (that's the only input, right?), you could use something like this:;amp;cm_re=RCA_TS-_-9SIA2E11AU1608-_-Product

  • Or you could use some other combination of cabling to get your sound into the right jack format.

    So - this MIGHT work ok, but it might not as well. Two reasons:

  1. If you have a basic PC sound card the sound quality is likely to be shit, and you might get white noise coming through the speakers all the time
  2. Using unbalanced connectors in a balanced input might also give noise and won't sound as good.

    So you might find you aren't happy with the setup. The next step is to get some kind of Audio Interface (fancy name for sound card) that's designed for this kind of thing.

    Just getting a dedicated audio interface will improve the sound a lot. You could get one with unbalanced outputs - just RCA out. Since your monitors are so close it probably won't matter.

    Here's the cheapest I could find that does have balanced outs, but there's probably others:;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1457608397&amp;amp;sr=1-1&amp;amp;keywords=focusrite+2i2

    The plus side is these things usually have a separate headphone output and volume control, which is super useful if you just want to listen through headphones for a bit and not use the speakers.

    Hope that's useful.

u/evilmnky204 · 2 pointsr/audiophile

For $400, you could either go with bookshelf speakers + an amplifier though someone else would have to fill in the suggestions on that route for me. You can also go with powered monitors (meaning that they're already amped) such as the JBL LSR305s. Keep in mind that you'd need to make sure wherever you purchase these from that they'll come in a pair as studio monitors are sometimes not sold in pairs. As for a cheap interface to connect it, the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 is a solid purchase. This example specifically is about $260 for the speakers, and $150 for the interface so just at about $410. Keep in mind there are many cheaper interfaces you can use or even just a DAC such as this one which would be cheaper by a decent amount.

Either way, both options would be far, far better than the Audio Engine A5+, imo.

u/MrJackBurton · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I've been looking to get a pair of JBL 305s myself. I agree with others here that the hissing is likely due to using your on-board sound card versus an external USB DAC. Although you are likely using these studio monitors for listening rather than recording, a lot of people seem to use a USB audio interface with monitors like the Scarlett 2i2 that acts as a DAC with instrument recording capability. It has balanced 1/4" TSR outputs for monitors and if you ever decide to get an XLR condenser mic it has the input for that too.

It might be overkill for just a listening setup, but it's cheaper than an Audioengine D1 DAC. I can't speak to the quality difference since I own neither, but it seems you'd get a lot more for your money with the 2i2. Some comments I see is that the 2i2 doesn't have a very robust headphone amp built in for higher impedance headphones, though the same is likely true of the D1 DAC since it is also USB powered.

u/o0turdburglar0o · 2 pointsr/Ubuntu

Love my 2i2.

Apparently there's now a rev2 available, not sure what's different from the rev1 I have.

There's also a single-preamp version for under $100. Guitar/line-in like what OP is using don't need a preamp so this might do the job well for him. If it was available at the time I purchased I probably would have gone this route.

u/pouchkiller · 2 pointsr/ultrawidemasterrace

M-Audio Firewire 410 . It's the audio interface that runs the Rokit 8s

It's pretty old and no longer supported by its maker. I've replaced it with an Scarlett 2i2 USB audio interface.

u/justanotherdickweed · 2 pointsr/audiophile
u/IShotTheSky · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

I'd go with this:

1.) Yamaha HS80Ms ~$500

2.) Shure SM57 ~$100

3.) Gauge ECM87 ~$150

4.) Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 ~$150

5.) ART Tube MP ~$40

Then I'd probably use the remainder to get odds and ends like stands and cables, etc. But with that, you should be able to make some killer stuff. Industry standard dynamic mic, high-value U87 clone condenser, really nice entry level interface, decent tube pre, and the crowning jewel being those HS80s. You'll be able to record your guitars and bass and mix all your tracks easily with this set up.

u/Clayman0809 · 2 pointsr/Bass

This guy here is awesome!

Sure, you can find cheaper M-Audio and knockoff ones, but the preamps in focusrite interfaces are worth every single penny! I used an M-audio Mobile pre for three years and it got the job done, but I didn't know what I was missing till I upgraded to Focusrite, I wish I did it right from the get go.

The advantage of this type of interface is not only can you record Bass and Guitar, you can also record at Mic level, so you can plug in a microphone with an XLR to record, even a condenser that requires phantom power. As well as line level, which would be like keyboards or an already DI'ed signal.

If you plan on recording your own stuff, even if it is just for demos/ personal use, an interface like this will make a world of difference and will help you realize your potential as a musician.

u/140dB · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

As everyone else is saying there are a ton of choices. If you are sure all you want is two channels for recording I would go with a 2 Channel USB interface such as the Focusrite Scarlet which is only $150. For a live multitrack like you describe that's what I would choose.

However, whenever someone asks me about what interface they should get I always say, "Plan for the future." Sure you only want 2 channels now, but in the future are you going to want more? Are you going to need MIDI or Digital Ins? A 2nd monitoring path for two people recording? Like kim_otcj said, If you buy for the future you'll save money in the long run.

u/MrEditor · 2 pointsr/GWABackstage

Why are there still fake-real knobs and such? Because.....

There was a long time where analog was it. It's all there was. 4, 8, 12, 16 track analog recorders. Behemoths of recording consoles. If GWA existed somehow in that day, we would all own little 2-track recorders, a small mic pre-amp unit, and a microphone. And you'd maybe have an analog EQ and compressor, big physical units that looked like this.

So when everything went digital, a decision was made. To preserve brand identity and user familiarity, they copied the physical unit into a digital VST application. Compare This real world Shadow Hills Compressor unit with The Shadow Hills Compressor Plug-in.

There isn't any reason beyond that. There is reasons to choose analog or digital, but not to have a UI reminiscent of analog units.

As far as heaphones go, I'll take you through what I own, and what I use most.

Sennheiser HD 650

Sennheiser HD6 MIX

These were gifts through a brief endorsement deal I had, and I run these through this headphone amplifier

For higer-end earbuds, I use Sennheiser IE 60's and Sennheiser IE 80's. These I primarily use for simple editing on the go, giving to performers to use on stage or using myself on stage, or for women tracking vocals or instruments who don't want to mess up their hair with big over-the-head headphones.

But, my most used setup, what has become my dream setup, and the one that I will always reach for first, is far from the priciest.

Sennheiser HD 280 Pro, run out of the computer through a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2.

This is my favorite setup. The 280 Pro's are $100, the Scarlett is around $150. The headphones are crystal clear, have tight response all through the spectrum, are rugged enough to get chucked the fuck around, are comfy, and come with a great quality screw-on adapter so they able to be used into a 1/4" connection or a standard 1/8" headphone jack. Their impedance means they don't need an amp and can be used as normal headphones. They sound JUST as good as pairs ten times their price, and they have a certain special something to their super-low end and high-mids that I haven't found. Go get these today. Trust me.

The Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 isn't used as an amplifier in this case, since the 280's don't need it. It serves as a USB feed out, with a nice little volume knob. USB out will always trump 1/8" headphone jack out audio. Plus, the 2 inputs are nice to have. I own two of these units, and one always travels with my laptop for an easy, portable solution for HQ audio monitoring, easy L-R in recording from a sound board, or easy audio out from my laptop.

Together, these things have a certain magic, and I don't have to break my bank or handle them like china dolls. They're both rugged and sound AMAZING.

EDIT: I forgot my in-ear molded earphones. I own a pair of Alclair Reference IEM's. They are a great price, sound incredible for stage or studio, and I got mine with wood backs and DAMN are they sexy.

u/kiwiandapple · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

Well, I decided to provide you with a cheaper suggestion compared to /u/Du6e great suggestion.
I did include a external

I changed a few parts to reduce noise.

  • CPU: Went with a locked CPU. This means less heat, which reduces in less fan speed required to cool the CPU.
  • CPU cooler: The NH-D15 is absolutely amazing for the price, but this little cooler is also in the category of amazing. Very easy to install, more than silent enough and keeps the CPU cool enough.
  • Motherboard: Because I went with a locked CPU, we don't have to pay the small premium for a Z97 board. This motherboard got everything you will want and will work absolutely fine.
  • Storage: Changed the SSD to a slightly faster one. I personally have the exact same one and I love it. Here is a benchmark of the performance.
  • Video card: The difference is mainly the cooler. Here is a comparision between the EVGA, MSI, Asus, Gigabyte &amp; Stock GTX980Ti. Under load (so during games) the Gigabyte card is the loudest one of the cards tested. MSI beats the EVGA/Asus versions by a small judge.

    I will also provide you with a couple of great guides to help you build the PC.


    As for the Focusrite audio recorder.
    Here is a great video explaining and showing you why you want this.
    Here is a review of the one that I am suggesting. A slight amount cheaper compared to the one used in the video above.

    PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

    CPU | Intel Xeon E3-1231 V3 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | £217.76 @ Dabs
    CPU Cooler | CRYORIG M9i 48.4 CFM CPU Cooler | £16.49 @ Ebuyer
    Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-H97-D3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | £85.98 @ Ebuyer
    Memory | Kingston HyperX Fury White 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory | £60.99 @ Amazon UK
    Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | £117.00 @ Amazon UK
    Storage | Western Digital Blue 2TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive | £53.94 @ Aria PC
    Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Superclocked ACX 2.0+ Video Card | £528.53 @ More Computers
    Case | Fractal Design Define S ATX Mid Tower Case | £58.96 @ Aria PC
    Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | £74.99 @ Amazon UK
    Monitor | Dell U2515H 60Hz 25.0" Monitor | £265.86 @ Aria PC
    Monitor | Dell U2515H 60Hz 25.0" Monitor | £265.86 @ Aria PC
    Sound recording| Focusrite Scarlett 2i2| £99.00 @ Amazon UK
    | Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
    | Total | £1845.36
    | Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-22 09:11 GMT+0000 |




    Now before you have a look at all these guides. The best guide in most cases will always be your MANUAL. Some manuals are garbage, but most of them are more than good enough to be able to help figure out most problems.

  • How to build an Intel 115x socket PC? This is my personal favorite because it goes in depth, but still keeps the video relatively short. It also got great camera work so you are able to follow all the steps very well. I decided to skip the start of the video. The reason being that the video is posted on 17th of May 2013, he gives the rationale of his selected parts at the start. This is a very long time ago, so the parts are very old, so no need to hear this out. But building a PC is still pretty much the same. No drastic changes.
    There are a lot of different build guides on the internet, but I really like this one. It's easy to follow.

  • How to install a 115x CPU? Very simple and easy to follow guide again.
  • How to install thermal compound? Now, to be clear! Every single heatsink will come with its own thermal compound. Even the intel/AMD stock heatsinks. So there is no need to buy this.
    It's only recommended to buy when you either have very bad temperatures or when you want to overclock to the extreme. The temperature difference between the best and the "worst" thermal compound is a couple degrees Celsius.
    Be careful though! More is not better! It needs to have enough, but too much will dramatically increase the temperatures of the CPU. Thermal compound helps with the contact of the cooler + the CPU. The CPU + heatsink both have microscopically small gaps, which the thermal compound fills up to let the heat get too the heatsink.
  • How to install RAM? It's very simple these days. For DDR4 it's pretty much the same.
  • How to install Windows 8(.1) or 10 from an USB drive? You have to download "media creation tool" which is located at the bottom of the page (blue button). Run that program with a 4GB+ USB flash drive plugged into a PC. Then follow the simple steps and the program will make the USB drive bootable. After that all you have to do is build the PC and boot from that USB drive to install Windows.
  • How to set up your SSD &amp; HDD? This video is another older video, but it works pretty much the same in Win 8/10. He does talk about a few things that aren't very important, but it's good to know.
  • How to use Ninite? This video explains it very well, as well as their recommendations. For security I advise to only get Avira (if you don't mind to get an add every day; if you do mind - just use Microsoft Defender) &amp; Malwarebytes. If you want to pay for an anti-virus; Webroot! Light weight; very high detection rate.

    Hope you like it and If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.

u/toastyj247 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

This is the best option I've seen although, I'd go for a cheaper MOBO and i5 4460. Audio production is definitely not CPU intensive nor do you need fast memory (or a lot) but I can't speak on photoshop. As for Audio Production a DAC and Soundcard is not needed. Balanced headphones (ATH-M50x) definitely are but you also need a Audio Interface, the Scarlet 2i2 is very popular (You can probably get it cheaper else where)

u/Catechin · 2 pointsr/Bass

Does your amp have a DI out? A Scarlet 2i2 + Reaper would run you $210 and allow you to do everything you need. I honestly highly recommend Reaper over most other software. Once you've used a proper DAW you won't want to go back.

If you don't have a DI out on your amp it becomes much trickier. While you're fine mic'ing a guitar cab with an SM57 you may find it lacks low end with bass and something like a Beta 52A tends to be a lot more expensive. If you don't have a DI on your amp, your best bet would probably be to buy one, and a decent DI is going to eat your entire budget at least.

u/alexburnsredd · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

For vocals i'd recommend getting a Rhode NT1a. Pretty standard microphone and really versatile -

You may be able to get a way with a Shure SM57 (for vocals) which is the industry standard microphone used for drums and guitars, etc... This will be your best option for guitar.;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1452608377&amp;amp;sr=1-1&amp;amp;keywords=sm57

As for recording music into your computer, you'll need an audio interface. The majority of beginners on this thread are using Scarlett Focusrites. I'd recommend a Focusrite 2i2

If you want something a bit more 'all-in-one' then get yourself a Line 6 UX2 which comes with PodFarm 2.0 this will let you plug in your guitar and choose from a wide array of amplification emulation as well as pedals, modulations, effects, etc...

You'll also need a Digital Audio Workstation or DAW to record all of this into. I'd recommend [Reaper.] (

There's some great YouTube videos out there that will help you with all of this stuff. I'd recommend this guy:

u/IAmTriumph · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Your instinct would be correct (at least in my opinion). Make sure you buy a pop filter and a mic stand as well. An entry-level interface would be something like a Presonus AudioBox USB or the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2. I highly recommend the former (I have two musician friends who both have it and love it), also this bundle comes with the cables you need, some decent tracking headphones, and Presonus' StudioOne Artist DAW. So that's essentially everything you need right out of the box. I hope that helps.

u/OilsFan · 2 pointsr/Guitar

I use a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 USB interface which you can get for about $115 if you shop around. For a mic I have a Sennheiser e609 ($109) and a AKG P120 ($79) but the sennheiser is way better than that particular AKG. I use Reaper for recording.

Someone mentioned the little handheld digital units like a Tascam Dr-07. Those work pretty good but you have to then copy the file into your computer if you want to edit it.

u/bluehat9 · 2 pointsr/edmproduction

Guitar --&gt; 1/4" cable --&gt; input on audio interface (scarlett 2i2) --&gt; audio track in daw

u/wryan12 · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

I recently just bought an Imac and had a similar issue. I ended up getting a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 and it's worked out really well for me so far. It has phantom power, two xlr/1/4 inch jacks, and plugs into your mac via usb.(it also comes with cubase and a it's own suite of reverbs)

I was in a rush so I got it at Guitar Center for around $150, but that seems around the price you were looking for.(I'll post the amazon link for you to check out)

I've also used garageband for years and just made the jump to Loxic Pro X. There is a bit of a learning curve to the new DAW, but not as bad as I thought and I'm really loving it so far.

Best of Luck!

u/TrianglesRhombuses · 2 pointsr/Guitar

Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 is the best budget interface. You can find them under $100 used.

u/Baronzemo2 · 2 pointsr/podcasts

Have you looked at the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 2 In/2 Out USB Recording Audio Interface My manager who does music as a hobby loves this thing.

u/spewtoon · 2 pointsr/Guitar

plug something like this into this and then run it via USB to your computer. any mic and interface will do, but those 2 happen to be pretty basic and easy to handle. as for software, i recommend Reaper as you can use it for free for awhile and pay once you've decided it's worth it (which it will be, so make sure at some point you throw 'em the cost).

point mic at amp speaker, select track on Reaper and press record. rock out like the glorious rock god you are, and then press stop. File menu&gt;render (i think, can't remember right now)&gt;pick format and save.

very, very rough walkthrough!

u/MantisToboganMD · 2 pointsr/audio

Beaky is right, at that price you can find an interface with built in pre's. Way better.

120 shipped with prime refurb:;amp;condition=refurbished

Model up new shipped with prime for 138;amp;condition=new

These act as offboard sound cards, headphone amps, dacs and can drive 2 xlr mics in stereo. Way better deal/upgrade overall. You could probably find em even cheaper, I just searched 'focusrite' on amazon. The focusrite scarlet series is fantastic for the price.

u/eVo_Xile · 2 pointsr/makinghiphop

I just got a new mic yesterday, the Audio-Technica AT2035 and a new interface, Focusrite Scarlett 2i2. I was super hyped leading up to it and it's one of the best purchases I've made in my opinion, and I'm still fine tuning things.

u/crystalcastles · 2 pointsr/Bass

This isn't firewire, this is USB.

4.5 Stars on 129 reviews

Was virtually plug-n-play on my Windows 8 Computer, super easy to use.

I dealt with shitty drivers/support with my Mboxes and got this and have never looked back.

u/mnLIED · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

The thing about astroturfing is that you can never be sure which side is speaking truthfully and anecdotally, and which side is being misleading. I should have made that statement clearer, as it's not an attack on the Scarletts. I have never used one myself, and from what I've read, as soon as you start looking at the interfaces that are above $200-$300 all of the reviews seem to be from professionals that love them. Here are the 1-star reviews on Amazon, and here are the 5-star reviews. There are 250 5-star reviews to 25 1-star. Seems like a lot of the issues people have are superficial, poorly worded, and could be chalked up to user errors. Lots of amateur recording artists that don't know how to set up their I/O properly, rush to buy the best of the cheapest models and are upset that it doesn't make their mixes sparkle.

Astroturfing goes both ways. Sorry if that wasn't clear. I don't mean to shit on a product I have never used.

u/FlobeeWanKenobee · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I have a Scarlett 2i4 audio interface for production duties.

u/mage2k · 2 pointsr/edmproduction

For a slight bit over that £100 I'd recommend the Focusrite Scarlett 2i4.

u/MiniMoose12 · 2 pointsr/headphones

Check on the earcup. It should say 250 pro if it's the 250ohm version.. the box could've just been a mistake, but the earcup decides all.

also because it's 250ohm, you'll need an amp to get the good stuff out of them. There are a ton of "budget" amps in that range, so here are a few that I recommend. Schiit Magni ,Objective 2 , and if you can spend the extra 50$get the Scarlet so you can get a good microphone input later down on in the line.

u/JDM_WAAAT · 2 pointsr/battlestations

They are powered!

JBL LSR308 Amazon Link

Focusrite 2i4 Interface Amazon Link

2 X TRS cable Amazon Link

u/halfbrit08 · 2 pointsr/audiophile

If you really want to spend the money and it's for a computer. Spend $800 on monitors and maybe $200 on a DAC that can give you balanced audio out. I've always been a fan of speakers over headphones though.

Edit: In fact, here you go.

2 of these and 1 of these.

u/notagayguy69 · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I am currently using the Focusrite Scarlett 2i4 USB Audio Interface for my Rokit monitors. I see this 12 inch Klipsch sub-woofer is on sale from Amazon today and I'd like to add it to my setup but am unsure if I'll be able to connect it to my audio interface or if I'd have to purchase something else to get it hooked up. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

u/fvig2001 · 2 pointsr/Philippines

I bought myself these:

  1. Scarlet 2i4 Audio Interface
  2. A pair of LSR305 studio monitors

    Got to up my music gig.
u/OhAces · 2 pointsr/Beatmatch

you can get a cheap sound card and plug your sound from your controller into it, then route the sound to your computer through usb and out to your speakers with rca, you will get a far better recording than splitting the sound. Audacity and any other recording program will recognize pretty much any sound card immediatley. this one is only $25 CAD. I have this one bit more expensive but it works great.

u/Sleeper256 · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

MAudio MTrack found here

I agree the top end seems lacking through it, you think that's because of the preamp? Do you think it's broken, or just cheap? I don't think the simulators are the problem anymore, because I even tried a trial of Guitar Rig 5 and it still sounded lacking...

u/giubaloo · 2 pointsr/Guitar

I have this and I like it a lot because there is a mix knob to adjust the balance from the direct input and your computer signal. That basically means you can play through AmpliTube as if it were an amp and not hear any of the dry signal from your guitar. Any audio interface will do so long as you can disable direct monitoring.

u/paulbamf · 2 pointsr/Guitar

No he means something like this. A physical unit where you can connect mics, guitars etc. Audacity is a very simple DAW. If you buy an interface you can use Reaper for free (though it's cheap to purchase) and that's comparable to ProTools and other industry standard DAWs.

u/badtaylor · 2 pointsr/makinghiphop

for $200 you could get this interface and this microphone

and you'd have money left over for a stand if you didn't have one before.

if you want the sm7b then you're looking at a vocal recording setup of $500+

u/v_m_ · 2 pointsr/makinghiphop

It's kind of hard trying to fit into that budget. I'd suggest saving till you can get a somewhat okay setup. A decent audio interface would be the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 but it's $150.

Might try looking into this:



Sorry for the long links. I personally have the AT2020 and I love it as a beginner mic. Just learn to mix okay and you'll be set.

Also if you can't/don't want to buy a pop filter (assuming you have a stand or desktop tripod thing) you can make one out of an old wire coat hanger and some pantyhose (yeah it's kinda weird, but it works okay as well)

Hope I could help.

u/audioscience · 2 pointsr/Guitar

I'm in the same market as the OP and the m-audio m-track looks like the most full-featured piece of hardware. Note that there are two different versions with different software bundles, one with ProTools Express and one with Ableton Live Lite. I'd go for the bundle with Ableton Live Lite.;amp;psc=1&amp;amp;smid=A172LXRNAST084

u/therealvodius · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

I can't speak personally for this DAW but some people like it well enough. Well timed Humble Bundle;amp;hmb_medium=product_tile&amp;amp;hmb_campaign=tile_index_5

Behringer has this audio interface that will get you what you need for guitar/bass/mic for less than a new video game;amp;qid=1565824932&amp;amp;s=gateway&amp;amp;sr=8-5

Have you tried asking people at your school what they're doing? Maybe someone wants to be a producer and is looking for someone to collab with?

u/cecilkorik · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Well, first of all, it requires 48V phantom power and additional cables or it will not work. As the description on Amazon states:

&gt;PLEASE NOTE: Sound Card, 48V Phantom Power, 1/4" to XLR Cable &amp; XLR to XLR Cable are needed to purchase additionally.

Neewer has their own 48V power supply, I would recommend you get that. You may also need an additional XLR cable.

Assuming you've got all that figured out, you may be able to use your built-in sound card, as the description suggests that it comes with a 3.5mm to XLR cable. If the quality is not satisfactory, they also sell a USB sound card, or there are many others to choose from, from cheap one trick ponies like this up to and including professional audio boxes that connect directly to your PC. For a professional mic like that, those may be the best option. But they are not cheap.

Edit: links.

u/SHOWTIME316 · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

Probably a silly question but I figured I might as well ask. On the [UMC22] (, using the direct monitor headphone output, can you hear whatever audio your computer is outputting as well? Since my main use for this interface will be gaming, for example, would I be able to monitor my own comms while also hearing my game and Spotify in the same headphones? I'm trying to see if I should bother replacing my lost 1/4th adapter that came with my AT M30xs.

u/Crymoricus · 2 pointsr/audiodrama

This - $58.99

This - $99.00

This - the one with the stand ($48.00)

and This - $12.50

Total: $218.49

The "soundproof shield" on the mic stand isn't enough. The only reason I say you should get it is because it will allow you to hang a blanket over your mic. You want something heavy with a cotton-like, or very dense surface. You can hang the blanket there and "duck in" to do your voice work. You can take a phone in with your lines on it so you don't have to duck in and out so much. The point is that there is no such thing as a good mic that doesn't need soundproofing, period.

With this condenser mic, good soundproofing (blanket), and the heavy pop filter, you will be surprised at the quality. The Behringer audio interface is basically an amp, you know, and it's totally fine for voice work. And remember, this is NOT a USB mic! It NEEDS an audio interface.

I realize it's more than the option already presented, but it's just so worth it. It really is so much about that blanket. The fact is if you want to sound pro without spending pro money, you need to stick your head in there and just put up with that. The results are 100% worth it.

One other thing: if you find that pop filter isn't enough, and you're still hearing "mouth clicks" (this setup, without filter, will pick up every little sound the inside of your mouth makes -- and the inside of your mouth actually makes a LOT of unintended noise, if you didn't know it), start layering on thin nylon fabric (panty hose will work) until it's gone to your satisfaction.

Here's me using this exact setup (I have tried other inexpensive setups!)

u/Kizamus · 2 pointsr/Twitch

I'm not too sure on what else you could do TBH. If you're already using noise gate. The blue yeti is a pretty sensitive mic and not one that I would recommend. You could always try selling the yeti and going for a different mic. Maybe an XLR Shotgun. You can get one under 100 including the phantom PS. I may add some links to this reply

Audio Interface:;amp;qid=1517463363&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=Behringer+UMC22


Those are under 70 USD. I've used the Audio interface in the past and it's actually really good for its price.
You may need to look for a different stand, or maybe figure out a way to keep it pointed towards you while you play your games ect.

Hope this helps

u/certifiedrotten · 2 pointsr/podcasting

You could make your life a lot easier with a USB interface like this one. BEHRINGER audio interface UMC22

u/Lucidiously · 2 pointsr/microphones

Hello, I'm looking for a cheap(preferably under €50) desk mic for voice recording/streaming and discord. I'm not looking for the highest quality, just something that will do the job well enough and is a good value. But I'm completely new to this and not really sure where to start and what to look for.

I might be able to get a used Blue Snowball including arm, shockmount and filter for €45.(new without any extras they are €60 here)

Other than that I've been looking at this Neewer NW-700. Reading up on stuff it seems to me that my onboard audio wouldn't be enough to give a decent sound quality and I would need a preamp, am I right in thinking that? If so would it be a good idea to pair it with a Behringer umc22, which would cost me about €65 total.

So my questions are these, what would be the best out of these two, do I need a preamp with an XLR mic and are there other options that would be better for around €50?


u/MPGlenn1202 · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

What about something like this?

I’m not dropping $500+ on something that might work out

u/WildDoktor · 2 pointsr/VoiceActing

Awesome; then /r/JohannesVerne 's suggestions would be great...and you could upgrade to the umc22 (less self-noise, I'm told).

Also, you'll need better headphones. Your Logitech are probably fine for gaming and pleasure listening, but not mixing VO work. I'm learning that most gaming headphones really boost the bass, and you need headphones with a super flat response for mixing your VO work. Look up a video where they compare a raw VO track with a processed one and listen with your Logitech probably won't hear much of a difference. Then buy a pair of Sony MDR7506's and listen again. Wow...what a difference! You won't use the Sony's for "pleasure" listening, so keep your Logitech set for that.

A better mic could possibly give you *worse* sound quality, because it'll pick up *everything*. So you'll also need to tighten up your performance and your room if you want a better mic to help you sound better. "With more mic comes more responsibility", or something like that! :-)

All that said, I think it's awesome that you have a budget and a passion, and I say "go for it"!

u/MoogleMan3 · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

It's in the title, but yeah, needs an audio interface.

Here's a decent interface for $42.71.

u/Dracomies · 2 pointsr/VoiceActing
u/xtwrexx · 2 pointsr/ableton

For live sound, you'll need some sort of USB audio interface, one of these, that have some sort of monitor out. This will act as a digital to analog converter from your laptop to the house PA for the highest quality audio. It will also give you an input to either DI your guitar, or mic it or a speaker cabinet. You'll also want something to trigger your loops and and adjust things on the Ableton side, but I'd have to know a little more about what you are looking for on that end.

u/bnich11 · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Just to be clear, you will need a 48V power source to operate this mic. A friend of mine has this mic and uses a BEHRINGER U-PHORIA UMC22 mixer. It sounds really good.

u/WordOfMadness · 2 pointsr/buildapc

By the time you get that and an XLR-USB cable, it's not much more just to get a proper interface. There are some ones that do an okay job on the cheap, like this $40 Behringer.

u/LegionsReddit · 2 pointsr/Twitch

Please do yourself a favor and get an AT2020 or 2035 XLR. Most people that have been doing this for some time will tell you, get a mic that will last. Don't go the upgrade path. In the long run if you go from headset mic to yet/snowball then eventually upgrade to XLR and a mixer, you're spending unnecessary money. Spend the little bit now to get the end game, and use it for years! Enjoy the high quality the whole time!


The link above has a bundle of frequently purchased together with the AUI and XLR Cable for $150;qid=1555080248&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3

This is a pop filter and shock mount for $14;keywords=rode+boom+arm&amp;qid=1555080384&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=rode+boom%2Caps%2C151&amp;sr=8-3

This Boom = $100 (Worth it)

This is the boom arm i have that was recommended to me, I've had lower quality ones that didn't work out well and you don't want to know what its like to have almost $200 of equipment dangling on a $15 boom let em tell you. You also don't want to use the desk mounts as from my experience they don't provide the quality that booms do (so much noise every time you move your mouse or get animated and bump your desk slightly. Ive had this boom 3 years and love it still, great investment.

Total: $265+Taxes includes..


Rode Boom Arm

XLR Audio interface

XLR Cable

Pop Filter

Shock Mount

u/ThatSoundGuyChris · 2 pointsr/leagueoflegends

Okay this is going to be a long post, so here goes.


If you really want to get into sound design, youre going to need a few essentials. A DAW (Digital Audio Workstation), an audio interface, a handheld recorder, and a microphone.


As far as a DAW goes, there's a few alternatives you can go with. I personally use Avid Pro Tools for near everything I do, but also mess around with Reaper. I've found that most studios will use one of these two. Most DAWs will have a pretty steep learning curve, so be ready for that.

Pro Tools First is the free version of Pro Tools. It has a lot of limitations, but for starting out it should be fine. If you want less limitations it costs big money, but I'm sure you can find a crack or two as long as you don't use it commercially.

Reaper is starting to grow on me lately. You can customize it to your needs, and the full version is only $60. You can also just deal with a popup everytime you open the program for ten seconds and use it for free. I mainly prefer Pro Tools over this because the video engine in Pro Tools is much better. But for batch editing multiple sound files, Reaper is muuuuuch better.


Audio Interface

This basically takes over as an intermediary between high quality audio and your computer. You can plug a microphone right into it to record sound straight to your computer. You can do this with a USB microphone as well, but the quality is a million times better with one of these.
I would recommend either the Behringer UMC22 or the more advanced Focusrite Scarlett Solo. Both will do the trick, I just prefer the mic pres on the Focusrite a bit more.

Handheld Recorder
Handheld recorders allow you to record anything you want to without having to deal with any cables. They should be compact but durable.

The Tascam DR-40 is a great intro recorder. It was the first recorder I got 5 years ago, and it still holds up. I've dropped this thing so many times and it still powers through.
Another favorite is the Zoom H4N. This was a favorite among most of my classmates as it was the one my school supplied, but I didn't feel like going through the checkout process all the time so I saved up and got the Tascam. It has a newer version, the Zoom H6, which is pretty slick, but comes at a higher price point. It also comes with some interchangeable microphone capsules so you can get different types of recordings. I'll cover more of this later.
I'll leave off with the recorder I have now, the Sony PCM-M10. This thing is a godsend. It's discontinued due to a newer version coming out, but you can find this guy on eBay for around $300-400. It's smaller than a phone, and the sound quality is amazing. If you have the money to shell out for this guy, definitely go for it. Every sound designer inn the industry I know swears by it.


So the first thing you need to know is that there's a load of different microphone types. Its a lot to cover, so I'm just going to link you to this article that will cover the basics of what you need to know. Basically I would recommend different microphones for different things, all depending on what you're trying to capture.
A good all-around microphone is the Shure SM57/Shure SM58. They're essentially both the same microphone. But these things will LAST. Like,people have run over them with trucks and they sound fine. Definitely a good starting point

For vocal recordings, I would recommend the Rode NT1A. This mic is a great starting point for capturing voice, and is durable to boot.

For capturing foley/field recording, I would go with the Rode NTG2. Its a shotgun mic with great quality for the price, and never let me down in all the years Ive been using it. I won its successor, the NTG3, in the Riot Creative Contest a few years back, but still use the NTG2 from time to time when I need to.

Some Extra Stuff

Theres a lot of cool, free plugins out there. I've used both Blue Cat's and Melda's plugins, and they all get the job done with a bit of tweaking.

As far as building up a sound library goes, I would recommend recording literally everything you can around you and playing with those sounds with plugins as a good starting point for building up a library. There's a few resources out there that give out free SFX every once in a while, GDC has had a bundle go up for 2016, 2017, 2018 and 2019. You can also check out the BBC Sound Effects Library. Be careful about getting libraries and bundles though, as they add up quick. I have to go through my sound library soon, and I probably have around 500,00+ files but only really need a few thousand.

For all your sounds, you're going to want a file manager. A great and free one is Mutant. You just add the directory where you downloaded your sounds to, let it load them in, and voila. You can search easily for what you need.

Hopefully, all this was somewhat helpful to you, or to anyone else reading this who's interested in sound design!

u/mnha · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Given your interests, I'd probably pick up something like this:;amp;psc=1

and a proper mic. Discrete solutions tend to be better than onboard, the mainboard chips have a lot of electronic noise sources around them. Powered USB hub for the ports.

Learning to code isn't resource intensive, it's bigger projects where hardware matters. You'll survive waiting 2-3 seconds more for compilation. As for maintaining, good PSU and dust filters, e.g. Silverstone filters. Nothing beyond that is really necessary.

u/berserkcucumber · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

The Arturia Minilab Mk2 isn't bad, but I think the Launchkey Mini Mk2 is better. I've found I don't use the knobs as often as I'd thought, the extra pads are a more than welcome exchange for it. Plus, it has easy-to-install drivers, works with most DAWs, and great feel on the keys for the price, too.

Make sure you get what works for your workflow. If more knobs are better, then go for that. If having more pads readily available without having to press any buttons is better, go for the Launchkey.

Another option is the Akai MPK Mini Mk2 but I've heard it can be really wonky with certain software.

u/CaptainYankaroo · 2 pointsr/loopdaddy

I have an Akai MKII that I plug into a pretty basic setup using FL Studio and have spent hours making 8-12 bar beats of various genres. Its good fun. There are thousands of hours of youtube of people making stuff in FL Studio for lessons, and you can kinda point/click to make simple beats then just play the Rhodes/Piano/Synths over the top to your hearts content. It is the best way I've found to poop on it so far. Im close to buying the looper he uses but Ive spent a long time playing around with just that keyboard (99$) and learning FL Studio. Knowing the software, and finding your style are probably the key things. Being able to find instrument packs to get the sounds you want etc.

u/mindcryme · 2 pointsr/makinghiphop

I will jump in and sayi f you want to get into producing I would highly recommend getting a 25 key midi keyboard. AKAI MPK Mini is a solid choice. If you want to used pads AKAI MPD218 is a good choice as pads on most midi keyboards are not ideal. Other than that, a DAW and some monitors is really all you need to start.

u/Xulrether · 2 pointsr/TechnoProduction

The volca stuff is great, though if you are going to use Ableton a good starting point may be the Akai mini so you can work with various software instruments and have tactile elements -

u/irish_guy1991 · 2 pointsr/makinghiphop

Which of these would be more useful to some one who enjoys playing around with this as a hobby, not trying for a professional level. All I have right now if fl studio and am thinking about buying my first bit of equipment . I'm a fan of hip hop and sampling


u/RedDeadRedemptioner · 2 pointsr/FL_Studio

If you're looking for something compact, check out the MPK mini MK2. It's right at $100, comes with a pretty decent synth(Hybrid3), and it just gets the job done. I've abused mine for over a year and it hasn't given me any issues. Definitely worth a look! Best of luck!!

Akai Professional MPK Mini MKII | 25-Key Portable USB MIDI Keyboard With 8 Backlit Performance-Ready Pads, 8-Assignable Q-Link Knobs &amp; A 4-Way Thumbstick

u/skeletalG0d · 2 pointsr/dxm

hey, i enjoyed the report. Good to know that even with a stomach full of food the DXM works. I listened to your song, trippy haha. What program do you use to create? I am not a well versed in midi keyboards/pads but I did do a bit of research before buying the one I did and I love it.;amp;psc=1&amp;amp;source=googleshopping&amp;amp;locale=en-CA&amp;amp;tag=googcana-20&amp;amp;ref=pd_sl_8ui5vlk1ju_e. It comes with some free downloads for sound banks and had its own DAW. I've hooked it up to FL studio and it worked. I think you'd like this keyboard for many reason but mainly the little knob/stick in the top left corner is able to distort sound by pitch and speed, is super satisfying warping sounds while baked. Also everything including pads are really sensitive to the pressure you are trying for and play well with real time sound.

u/mxer125 · 2 pointsr/battlestations

Here's an Amazon link!

u/unia · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Reaper's trial is full-featured, it just opens with one of those WinZip-style "Hey, please do actually pay for our program at some point" messages that you have to look at for 5 seconds or so. You don't need to worry about not being able to save or anything. It's also only $60 to buy a personal license anyway. (Here's the link, incidentally.)

As for the MIDI keyboard, I've been recording for about three or four years now, and I just bought my first MIDI keyboard about a month ago (the new MPK Mini, which I'm rather liking so far). It depends on how you like to work. A lot of people are all about playing things in live with a keyboard. Personally I'm very meticulous with my arrangements and have a high tolerance for tedium (not to mention I'm a terrible keyboardist), so I got a lot of mileage out of just clicking the notes onto the MIDI roll with a mouse. I have a professor currently who's an incredible EDM producer and doesn't even use a mouse most of the time, just the trackpad on his laptop.

So in short, you can probably go very far without a MIDI keyboard, if it turns out that your workflow is good without one.

u/GeneralTS · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

&gt; arturia minilab

Is there something particular in the Arturia that you are looking for or is it one that you have settled upon? They make amazing gear, but there are so many products out now that you can find one that directly fits your needs.

For instance:

This is a bit more, but has transport controls and rocker-style pitch and mod wheels and some extras. It can be found used but new for $139.90.

I personally was at Musik Messe in Germany last year; Largest Electronic and Audio Expo in the world. There are so many people making gear now that you really can find pretty much what you are looking for. Additionally there are tools like

Not trying to sway your vote one way or another. I just have spent thousands over the years on all sorts of controlers over the years, have been doing this for a very long time, and want to help educate those who are pursuing similar paths.

One word of advice, having a hopped up gaming computer is great. However, the "tuning" I was speaking of in the thread pertaining to digital audio recording is a lot different than how one would tune a computer for gaming. Both can still be achieved well on a single computer, but there are some major differences that have to be lived with on the gaming side to ensure best recording experiences possible.

u/thestarheart · 2 pointsr/gamemusic

It's actually pretty easy. I have a lot of experience playing music, but 0 experience playing any kind of piano or keyboard...and I use a MIDI controller/keyboard to make that stuff.

So you really don't need to have crazy skills or anything, just an ear for what you're into. Got this one for 100 bones on amazon, but I bet you can find even cheaper ones.

I then use this program called Reason to emulate synthesizers and drum machines and stuff. Set a tempo and get to recording!

I put some more of my stuff up for you to check out if you're interested on that account.

u/itzDeniiz · 2 pointsr/musicproduction

thanks for the quick answer!

I think i'll go for the 25 keys one because i do not need a big keyboard. Thanks a lot btw it seems perfect!

What do you think about this one?;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1543602444&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=midi%2Bkeyboard&amp;th=1

u/wikerroot · 2 pointsr/ableton

Another vote for the scarlet interface. As far as a controller, as the others have said, this depends on what you're interested in doing. I would recommend either the McMillen k board (has good ratings, good reactivity, and the soft keys can function well for a wide range of inputs. It is just a stripped down midi controller, no frills, no knobs. Supposedly indestructible and very low profile, small footprint.)

Another option is an akai mpk mini. Feels a bit like old school casio entry-level keyboards, but it has both keys and a set of 8 pads. The pads are good and it's got some nice options for additional control of your DAW.

I outfitted my entire studio (minus the push 2) for about 500 by getting equipment used off of amazon, offerup and craigslist. Be patient, get what you need to get started and spend most of your time learning your DAW and its core functions and stock plugins. Watch tutorials and read the manual. Experiment a bit and research when you run into an obstacle. Start with too much and you'll get overwhelmed quick. Take your time and you'll feel like a wizard.

edit: A quick afterthought. Both of these keyboards have smaller keys. If that's an issue, you may want to look at other options. I list both of these because they have good quality and versatility for the price, with a nice addition of being highly portable should you want to take your setup mobile.

u/diversionmary · 2 pointsr/edmproduction

You can get by with as little as an Akai MPK MINI. Headphones are always on sale. Get sennheisers or grados. Or get maudio studio monitors.

u/BoomBapJazz · 2 pointsr/makinghiphop

I would get this midi keyboard;amp;qid=1536448710&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;amp;keywords=mpk+mini+mk2&amp;amp;dpPl=1&amp;amp;dpID=416Tlwn7yzL&amp;amp;ref=plSrch

This thing is really affordable and is the best bang for your buck. It's portable, feels great, and convenient. The drum pads feel amazing and the keys are kinda small, but still velocity sensitive so it's great for laying down synth leads or chords. It's a great intro piece to your production. Its so much better than a computer or laptop keyboard. You'll find out even early on how limited just a laptop keyboard is.

So idk ask for this for Christmas, mow some lawns. It'll be one of your greatest investments in early production.

u/Grandclosing · 2 pointsr/FL_Studio



Thanks for the suggestion! Now THAT looks like a sexy midi keyboard. I'm strongly considering getting it. Perfect size for my desk especially.

u/Krazy9096 · 2 pointsr/trapproduction
u/Cyrax89721 · 2 pointsr/aphextwin

Sorry I don't have any advice on the units you're looking at since I'm new to the space too, but I can share my experience.

The route I ended up going was purchasing an Akai MPK Mini, and used that to get a free copy of Ableton Live Lite. It's giving me the opportunity to experiment with soft synths to see what I'm capable of before taking the plunge into the rabbit hole of $1,000+ units, just in case I end up getting overwhelmed or bored with the creation process. Luckily, so far I haven't.

u/dreadpirater · 2 pointsr/WeddingPhotography

I also use midi2lr. It's a life changer. I keep meaning to buy one of the X-touch-mini's, but I already had one of these -;amp;pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-4&amp;amp;pf_rd_r=Z06DHTG7ACHWCTNRHX2Y&amp;amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;amp;pf_rd_p=faffebcf-0ddd-527b-962e-cdd5b006e17a&amp;amp;pf_rd_i=11973721

So I just use that for now. Map next and previous photos to big buttons... I have the 0-5 rating numbers assigned to the left most white keys... my most used presets assinged to the right most white keys... the knobs control all of the basic panel sliders. It's amazing how much faster it makes editing.

u/illimist · 2 pointsr/makinghiphop

I'm also looking at &lt;$150 controllers, but I've been checking out the AKAI MPK mini. Doesn't look like there's too much difference in quality but I've heard that AKAI drum pads are always good.

You absolutely can learn piano on 25 keys, dont limit yourself. Once you know your way around the 13 keys in an octave, it's just repeated up and down the keys.

Would love to hear from someone who had experience with some of these controllers

u/DM-ME-UR-PUPPY-PICS · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

my boyfriend has been really into music (mostly hip hop/rap) since he was a kid and has recently expressed an interest in the producing side of things. he’s mentioned a couple of times that he’d like a keyboard or synthesizer, so i thought i’d get him one for Christmas this year.

i should emphasize that he’s never played an instrument before; i’m sure he doesn’t know how to read notes or anything. i played the piano for about 10 years growing up so i at least can help him out with some of the basics, but what i don’t know anything about is keyboards or synthesizers.

i just want to get him a solid option for beginners. i don’t want to spend too much money (hopefully $150 or less?) in case he tries it and isn’t into it. i don’t know if a keyboard or a synthesizer would be a better fit for him and his interests. below are a few options i pulled from amazon, but again, i don’t know anything about any of this so if you have suggestions please let me know! i really really appreciate all your help in advance, i’ll send gold to a few of those who reply later this evening :)








u/NainIsBae · 2 pointsr/makinghiphop
u/Atojimusic · 2 pointsr/edmproduction

I really like the Akai MPK Mini MK2. Check it out! It's got 8 drum pads, 8 knobs, and a mini keyboard. All for $100. I have one myself and absolutely love it!

u/teddybandit · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

this what i got- good starting point- watch the vid on the side- it's easy/portable.

u/engi96 · 2 pointsr/audiophile;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1414323206&amp;amp;sr=1-3-catcorr&amp;amp;keywords=focusrite

this is an interface that does both digital to analog and analog to digital, but it is half the cost of the D1 and will sound as good. behringer dont make anything worth owning.

u/unforgiven60 · 2 pointsr/Guitar

If you enjoy acoustic style playing, I feel it can be beneficial to developing a better playing style as you branch out to electric. Acoustic guitars require a little more attention to finger placement and fretting technique. Mistakes are more noticeable and you can fix those problems early before they become bad habits. Electric guitars tend to "cover" those mistakes more easily with all the effects and distortion (once playing at a high level they become more noticeable again). Things like hitting extra strings, fretting a note that is dead, etc.

I definitely regret not learning more on an acoustic first. I jumped straight into electric and never really looked back.

As for gear and making the transition to electric, it depends on what you want to do with your guitar playing.

If you are going to just play and practice by yourself at home, I recommend at least researching amp simulator software for use on a PC and getting an affordable audio interface.

I recently bought a brand new Jackson 7-string guitar for $180 (it's actually not bad either was on sale), an audio interface for ~$75 (included free DAW software, was on sale as well), and purchased a large amp/cab/effects bundle on Revalver 4 for $100. I already had headphones and a PC. I also bought studio monitors but that's neither here nor there.

I know that's over your budget but you can try most amp sim software packages for free and you can buy the amps, cabs, and effects a la carte for pretty cheap prices (a few $ each). It unlocks a huge range of sounds and possibilities and you can learn the types of amps and sounds you like. If you ever want to buy a real amp/cab, then you have a direction you would like to go.

Just for comparison, by the time you buy a guitar, some floor pedals (can range from $50-100 each), and a practice amp (which may or may not sound good at this price level), you are probably over your $300 anyway. With the software/interface option, you can have like 15 amps, probably like 25 cabs, lots of microphone sims, and tons of effect pedals inside the software for like $350.

I'm into metal as well and I've found the high gain amps and sounds in Revalver to be pretty good. Different amp sims do certain things better than others.

Good luck on your journey

u/RedMoth11 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

none of them need mic capability.
just plugging the mic in to the mic jack on the computer is fine.
unless you have a nice mic, which you would get a usb interface for.
the audio thru a mic input, is more based on the mic quality rather than the sound card quality.
usb interface: scarlet solo + mic: at2020 or usb mic at2500usb

u/lovesongsnhouseflies · 2 pointsr/makinghiphop

I've personally never used that interface, so you'll have to rely on the Amazon reviews (or hopefully someone here has had experience with it). The preamp (what you plug the mic into), and the mic you use, determines the sound you're going to get. Again, you're gonna have to read the reviews. You're just starting off, so I wouldn't stress it too much. You'll get a better sound than just plugging a USB mic into your computer.

If I were in your position, with a small budget, I'd save up a bit more and buy this:;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1452061607&amp;amp;sr=1-1&amp;amp;keywords=scarlett+solo

The Scarlett series, in my opinion, is the best in terms of budget audio interfaces. Their preamps, and the system, overall, is of great quality.

When you're ready for that mic - put enough together to buy sayyyy this:;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1452061954&amp;amp;sr=1-1&amp;amp;keywords=Audio+Technica+AT2020

...and you got a good little startup.

The mic stand should fit pretty much any mic. It has both the clip, and a part to screw in the mic's shock mount (look up "shock mount").

I always recommend that you get warranty with your equipment, cause, you know...shit happens, so you should check if there're any music stores around that sell whatever you're interested in, and offer the warranty, as well.

u/KleyPlays · 2 pointsr/Guitar

Focusrite Scarlett solo and Reaper has a free trial that is really good.

u/thesnakefoot · 2 pointsr/audiophile
u/guuutbutttt · 2 pointsr/Guitar
u/m1stertim · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

For that mic, or any XLR mic, you will need an external preamp. That's why you can't use your motherboard's sound card and you need a USB sound card - just not like the one you linked. As you noted, the $5 one won't help you here.

They are more commonly called "audio interfaces," and here is a cheap example.

Alternatively, you can get a combination device - a microphone with USB out, which has a preamp built in, like this one.

More information on these basics can be found in the sidebar over there --&gt;

u/sofaraway731 · 2 pointsr/audio

The cheapest way would be this guy, but only if you have a line-level output on your computer... which I think most do.

The better option would be to get an audio interface like this, which connects over USB, and

u/Mort1186 · 2 pointsr/Beatmatch

A external sound card (audio interface) like such ;;amp;pd_rd_i=B00QHURLCW&amp;amp;hsa_cr_id=3638016320001

There are tons on the market, just depends on what you looking for, there is a guy named Podcastage on youtube that gives a good break down on cost effective pro audio equipment.

The audio interface will help you manage your sound between your laptop and mixer more effectively, plus it could also help with any digital to analog problems.

Hope this helps

u/SoundEmerge · 2 pointsr/country

Wow, 25? Don't tell anybody in the music business :)

Seriously, I thought your video shows promise, the best thing you could do is pick up a cheap USB audio interface and a "large diaphragm condenser microphone" and some headphones. Set it all up, then practice without recording for a few ways to get used to the feel of singing with your audio feedback in the headphones. Once you a re comfortable, hit record..!

Here's some gear that would worthwhile to look into... adjust to your budget and taste.;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1496707506&amp;amp;sr=1-14&amp;amp;keywords=usb+audio+interface

and pair it with either a microphone like this:;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1496707358&amp;amp;sr=1-12&amp;amp;keywords=condenser+microphone

or get a pair of large and regular condensers like this:;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1496707358&amp;amp;sr=1-11&amp;amp;keywords=condenser+microphone

Those are just suggestions, check out this guy's channel, he's got some great tips!

u/ohias · 2 pointsr/piano

If you want to use it as MIDI keyboard, then connect it via USB and it should work. But if you want to record its audio, then better get an external audio interface. Something like

u/Yaberflap · 2 pointsr/livesound

Your condenser mic needs power, and it can receive power over a XLR/mic cable from a preamplifier with a 48v switch.

The preamplifier needs to be connected to an analog-&gt;digital and digital-&gt;analog conversion circuit to work with your digital computer.

The devices that handle preamplification AND D/A A/D conversions are called AUDIO INTERFACES. A cheap one: behringer ucm2

u/RawAustin · 2 pointsr/letsplay

The Behringer U-Phoria UMC 204HD is a great one, I use it myself with my AT2020.

Another alternative is the 202HD which doesn't have MIDI ports but is cheaper. Depends what you need.

u/RobotAlienProphet · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

Huh. Well, butter my grits -- that one is indeed made only for mic and instrument level sources. Presonus actually suggests that line level sources could damage it:

I'm also a 0-coast user, and I'm using this Behringer, which is relatively cheap and works fine (there's also a smaller two-input version):

u/jfrenaye · 2 pointsr/podcasting

I do not think so. Do not know that piece but if you are considering USB, I believe that is only USB out.

I prefer a recorder rather than a laptop or computer, but if you can record directly to the computer an interface via USB is probably the way to go without breaking the bank.

The UMC404HD is a decent one for $99.

u/kaeles · 2 pointsr/MusicBattlestations

I have a similar setup, though it's all digital.

Here's what I do, and then I'll suggest a setup for you.

My equipment:
vocal mic - at2035

audio interface - umc404hd

midi pedalboard - fcb1010

midi controller - maudio code61

I have both my vocal mic at2035 and guitar plugged into my UMC404HD.

The UMC404 allows you to record 4 input channels (2 stereo) into the computer via USB, it also has midi inputs if you want a midi controller that isn't USB.

That allows me to monitor the input directly and to monitor after passing both through ableton live. The direct input monitoring (using the mix knob on the umc) doesn't have any effects applied to it since it's only the mic and guitar that are straight into the recorder.

The UMC also has 4 output channels, which allows you to send some outputs to the monitors, and some to the headphones, I use this for "cue" tracks and the metronome, which gives me a click track in my headphones, but not over the output I would use for playing live.

I then have a code 61 that I use for pad drums, midi control and keyboard input.

I want an FCB1010 to do the looping and etc inside of ableton itself, so it's a single contained unit and everything goes through my laptop, but currently I just program my sustain pedal on the keyboard to trigger looping.

What I would do for you is...

If you're using an amp / pedals for your guitar, get something like a shure sm57, plug that into the UMC, and point it real close to your amp so that you're capping it without any room noise.

If you're looping guitar, you can have the looper pedal connected in line before your amp.

If you're only wanting to loop vocals, you can inline the looper pedal to the mic before input to the computer/umc.

You can loop both with a single pedal, but at that point, your output probably should go into the computer only, skipping the guitar amp. You can direct monitor that, and have it inputting to the PC. You can have midi / etc backing on the PC playing back at the same time into your headphones/monitors.

I personally use amp modeling VST on the PC and just playback my guitar through my monitors anyways.

A much cheaper (but still good) alternative to the code61 is the akai mpk mini 25.

If you want to skip a loop pedal and only loop in software, this is specific to ableton, there are a few ways to do that.

I've seen 2 main methods.

  1. Map a pedal switch to the "session record" button in ableton. It's the empty circle to the right of the transport controls at the top. When you hit this, it triggers midi / audio recording for every armed track in the session view. I know this will overdub midi notes, but I think it will simply overwrite audio.

  2. Map a pedal to arm/load/play the looper VST on a track. If you want to loop more than 1 track, you can set the track output to be send only, set the looper on a send, and direct the audio output from those tracks to the send with the looper on it. This will allow you to trigger the looping for any track thats getting sent to that single send/fx channel.

    Here is a video explaining one of the ways to do looping.

    If anyone else knows better ways to do looping in ableton, I'd love to hear about it.
    Hope this helps.
u/Triumph_4_Eva · 2 pointsr/podcasting

Our set up with the audio interface and XLR mics has been so much easier to work with. We use the Tascam MiniStudio. It's a good little machine that works well for just the two of us. Also lets you plug your phone/tablet in to record music, but not as a separate track. Ultimately, will probably upgrade to something like this, this, or this. That Monoprice mixer however may not be great for recording more than 2 people on separate tracks. But the Behringer and other Monoprice audio interface look good.

We use the Samson Q2U microphones. I really like them, and think they have great sound quality. If you want to hear the difference between our USB episodes and our XLR mics, check our podcast out: Episodes 1 and 2 were recorded with a Blue Snowball and Yeti Nano, and the rest of our episodes are with the Samson Q2Us.

u/lushpuppie · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

I’ve tested this with a powered usb hub, and it works with CCK. You could have your synths going into this and then you’d hear everything (including iPad) out to your amp or recorder, and it has midi in/out for the monologue and mininova. You could also use it as the interface in an iOS daw for when you’re ready to record.


u/Bobsorules · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

I'm just getting into the game and am looking to pick up a good inexpensive audio interface, how does this look? I know most people here recommend the focus rite ones, but this one has pretty good reviews and is less than half the price.

u/honkimon · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

iPad + UMC404HD + Korg nanokontrol2 + AUM and you'll be all set. Replace the UMC404HD &amp; nanokontrol with any class compliant usb audio interface of your choice and the nanokontrol with any midicontroler of your choice. These are just inexpensive options.

Or just buy a full fledged mixer. There are too many options to list.

u/OrendaBass · 2 pointsr/edmproduction

That depends on your set up. Most basic home studios have some kind of audio interface that your monitors and headphones will all be plugged in to.

Something like this:;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1499395618&amp;amp;sr=1-5&amp;amp;keywords=audio+interface

u/posidonking · 2 pointsr/audiodrama

Hi, I'm the co-editor for podcast production and I think I may be able to help with your questions.

Mics: Depending on your current recording space you have 2 options, Condenser or Dynamic Microphones. Condenser mics are very good at picking up detailed sound but they are most of the time to sensitive to be used without some sort of sound proofing or acoustic treatment to the room as they are really good at picking up even the quietest of sounds. but if you have a treated room or a acoustic shield then that might be an option to look into. Dynamic mics however are really good at capturing loud sounds and because of that, they are mostly used for singing and instruments. however they are also often used for narration because you don't have to go all out with the sound proofing as they are less sensitive. now since my talents are in post production, I don't need an expensive microphone to get a good sounding recording, so I just use a $20 Dynamic microphone from amazon, they're great in fact I bought 4 of them for a podcast I was doing, I can give samples if you would like. As for price, Condenser are on average going to cost more because of everything that goes into it. Dynamic mics are older tech, so they aren't as expensive. my friend who does the vocal recordings has the Rode NT1a, a rather expensive condenser microphone $229, and I record using the Behringer Xm8500 Dynamic mic $20 on amazon. so it's really up to your budget and editing know how.

Rode NT1a


You will also need a audio interface if you're going to be using XLR mics, which I highly recommend you do. Here's the one I use, although you may not need that many channels


Software: I use Adobe Audition around $20 a month subscription. However I have in the past used Audacity and if you know how to use it, you can get some really good results. If you are looking to get into industry standard software I would recommend Pro Tools also I think $20 a month.


Yes, people who don't use a studio generally record to their preferred Audio editor and mix/edit then upload to a hosting website for their podcast, the production I work for uses Blogtalk which I think has a free option. However there are many options for hosting websites (E.g. Acast, Podbean, Libsyn, Ect.) I recommend reading this website for hosting options.


People typically find voice actors through Casting Calls which they themselves set up or by going through a casting call website, and yes voice actors are typically paid although some may offer volunteer if they're just getting out there or for charity. For the sake of professionalism always assume you are paying for their services, that way if they decline payment then that's their choice as an actor.


If your podcast gains enough listeners then yes, you can definaty make money through podcasting, but you should never go only for making money. because one, it takes a while ti gain listeners and two it's just no fun if your only in it for the money.


I remember being exactly where you are now asking these questions, so If you need any help don't hesitate to ask. I hope this helps :)




Mics: I use a $20 Dynamic mic which gives me great recordings, although there are more expensive and higher quality options out there.

Software: I use Adobe Audition to edit everything but there are a myriad of other audio editing options out there including the free software Audacity.

Yes it can be as simple as Record/Edit/Post depending on what your doing and the type of podcast your going for.

You find actors through casting calls, and typically you always pay actors for their services. Always expect to pay.

Yes you can make money through podcasting depending on your listenership and Ads and things like that.

u/blakedance · 2 pointsr/audio

If you want multiple tracks to edit in your software I would probably get something like this instead . If you still want to use your mixer your going to run into issues trying to record separate tracks at the same time because I'm assuming the mixer only has 1 output. If you don't mind only having 1 track to edit I would say keep the mixer and get a cheaper interface to make that 1 output USB :)

u/GrooveTank · 2 pointsr/podcasting

So we use the Behringer U-Phoria UMC404HD Audio Interface for our show that has 4 hosts, and I love it (I'm also the guy who edits the show and sets up our recording setup). It provides the power to all 4 mics, but it needs power. Also, we were about to buy a mixer and quickly learned that is not what we wanted. If you are wanting all your mics to have a separate audio track in your program than what you want is a USB audio interface, which is what the UNC404 is. I would highly recommend it.

u/RonaldFoose · 2 pointsr/audacity

Assuming you mean 4 mics with 4 separate channels. We do it for our podcast.

We use this interface:

It's a little tricky because there are you have to use an older version of the Behringer software (3.29.0) and the following drop down settings in Audacity: Windows WASAPI, Behringer LINE in, and then you will have the option to have 4 inputs in the last drop down.

If you go this route and have questions, let me know and I'll be happy to help.

u/CharlesWiltgen · 2 pointsr/podcasting

&gt; I believe the Blue Yeti is a USB mic, meaning you're not going to be able to use multiples of it anyway without having to jump through a lot of hoops to make it work.

On a Mac, it's pretty easy (search for "aggregate device"). On Windows, you can use something like VoiceMeeter Banana.

But to /u/wittiestphrase's point, USB mics are really for one-person setups. For multiple participants, a better budget setup would be a "starter" audio interface and starter XLR mics.

u/ImprovObsession · 2 pointsr/podcasting

Yeah, I really love the Behringer UMC404HD. Not a lot of options to play with it, but I did buy one and return it to amazon no problem.

u/oshowboji · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers
u/undskyldja · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

The Behringer U-Phoria is probably the best value for a mixer I've seen. I also second the Focusrite, but they are a little more than the Behringer.

u/ModernHeathen · 2 pointsr/Guitar

I second the Behringer UMC404HD and an SM57! Add some software for recording, I use Studio One, and you are definitely still within the limit.

If you want to get more complex in the dorm: I live in an apartment and have to worry about how loud I'm being at night especially. Learning about the amp sims and VST plugins you can get will really help. Mercuriall makes some KILLER sounding amp plugins that I use.

Here's a sample of the Mercuriall Tube Amp U530. This guitar is just plugged directly into the Behringer UMC404HD. I was pretty pleased with how much like my amp it sounded.

Hope that helps!

u/Alar44 · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

Ohhh, I see.

You need a USB audio interface, get rid of the Behringer.;amp;qid=1554232697&amp;amp;s=gateway&amp;amp;sr=8-3

Something like that. Run your microphone and audio out from your gaming rig into the interface, into the streaming PC, and then you will have separate channels to play with in Reaper and then push that to OBS. Connect your speakers/headphones to the streaming PC.

u/Joe_Paquin · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

Here’s my personal recommendations:

For an interface, this is the best bang for the buck on the market right now (again, in my opinion), especially if you’re just starting out :;amp;qid=1520813639&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;amp;keywords=umc404hd&amp;amp;dpPl=1&amp;amp;dpID=41q-puettzL&amp;amp;ref=plSrch

For a mic(s), it really depends on how extensive (and what) you’re going to be recording, and specifically if you plan on recording real drums or not. I’d recommend just getting one or two mics to start with, and getting more slowly over time, because if you use sampled drums in the beginning (which is a reality for many small home studio owners), you can do quite a lot of work with 2 mics. I’d recommend the following:

Any large diaphragm condenser in this price range will get the job done, but here’s what I use:;amp;qid=1520814113&amp;amp;sr=8-14&amp;amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;amp;keywords=condenser+microphone

An SM57 is a standard in many studios, and is also versatile and good to have around:;amp;qid=1520814292&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;amp;keywords=sm57&amp;amp;dpPl=1&amp;amp;dpID=31KR2%2BJ86GL&amp;amp;ref=plSrch

Now, for a monitoring situation (a.k.a. How you’re gonna actually listen to what you’re recording and mixing), it’s not the smartest idea to invest in monitors (which will eat up a substantial amount of your budget) without investing in treatment for the acoustics of your room. You could easily spend $500 on these two things alone, so I’d recommend just getting a pair of decent headphones for starting out. I know mixing on headphones is a whole can of worms on its own, but while you’re learning, it’s really not gonna make a difference, as long as you have something better than apple Earbuds (not that they aren’t useful). Just get something where you can really understand the sound of it, and reference on a lot of different systems, especially your car. (Disclaimer, I wouldn’t recommend spending more than $100 on headphones, and try to look for something with a relatively flat response, instead of something with cranked bass and hi end, so you can hear as accurately as possible)

As far as DAWs go, I know how appealing it is to buy the same program that people at the top of the industry might be using, but the truth is that most DAWs nowadays can essentially do the same thing. If you only take one of my recommendations, let it be REAPER. You can use a fully functionally demo for as long as you want, and chances, it’ll do everything you need, especially while you’re starting out. Hell, I know professionals that swear by it, and for good reason; it’s insanely flexible and useful, and for the price point (basically free, but if you end up sticking with it, you really should buy a license, it’s only like $60), you just can’t go wrong.

Edit: Unless you’re gonna be mixing 50 track songs right out of the gate, your MacBook will probably be just fine for the time being

Hope all of this helps, good luck!

u/AvgKirch · 2 pointsr/Twitch

$60 USD Samson Q2U:

$96 USD Behringer UMC202HD:

Look at the manufacturer website for accurate information about specs. The Amazon listing for the 202 had info about the 404 model.

u/Kristoffer__1 · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I'd not get a dac, what you want is an audio interface.

Like for example something like this. (I've got no idea if that one is actually good or not but it's got separate volume control for headphones and speakers which is incredibly useful if you use both.)

u/seldomstatic · 2 pointsr/AudioPost
u/kyL0h · 2 pointsr/Twitch

personally i'd probably go with a scarlett solo or 202hd amp and a e835 or sm58 mic around that price point; i'm a bit of a dynamic mic fanboy though

u/errorcache · 2 pointsr/indieheads

Generally, cheaper interfaces will have worse preamps and lower bit-depth/sampling rate capabilities (try to shoot for min 48kHz/24-bit).
Behringer's interfaces with midas preamps are quite good for how cheap they are. Something like this would be good enough for pretty much anything except recording drums

u/blackjakals · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

An audio interface with balanced outputs would work best. The have outputs for monitors and headphones.

A DAC/Amp combo would work too, but you may get more noise.

I suggest any of the following for an interface:;amp;qid=1538615994&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;amp;keywords=mackie+onyx+artist&amp;amp;dpPl=1&amp;amp;dpID=41g1YyxjwFL&amp;amp;ref=plSrch;amp;qid=1538616381&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;amp;keywords=behringer+u-phoria&amp;amp;dpPl=1&amp;amp;dpID=41LnZHDgziL&amp;amp;ref=plSrch;amp;qid=1538616639&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;amp;keywords=scarlett+2i2&amp;amp;dpPl=1&amp;amp;dpID=41L6SD2-BwL&amp;amp;ref=plSrch;amp;qid=1538616711&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;amp;keywords=steinberg+interface&amp;amp;dpPl=1&amp;amp;dpID=41NuXCXoVGL&amp;amp;ref=plSrch

For a DAC/Amp combo, I suggest the following:

I personally own this and it is great.;amp;qid=1538616843&amp;amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;amp;keywords=origen+g2&amp;amp;psc=1;amp;qid=1538616970&amp;amp;sr=8-8&amp;amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;amp;keywords=dac%2Famp&amp;amp;dpPl=1&amp;amp;dpID=41iOCuvyjdL&amp;amp;ref=plSrch

or this:
plus this:

u/SacredMaskMusic · 2 pointsr/homestudios

You can get a MXL 770 for under $100 and a 2-channel Behringer U-PHORIA for around $100. This will definitely be enough to get you recording. I use this set-up (mostly for recording samples and very limited vocal work, as I do electronic instrumentals for the most part) and it does the job. That leaves you $200 for accessories (you're gonna want a stand for the mic and a pop screen before you even think about acoustics). You can get an acoustic shield for well under $100. Pop screens are as low as $10 on Amazon. You can definitely stay in that budget if you're only looking to record rap vocals.

MXL Mics 770 Cardioid Condenser Microphone


(I haven't actually used these two products before, just providing you with quick search results. Definitely shop around first)

LyxPro VRI-30 - Portable &amp; Foldable Sound Absorbing Vocal Recording Panel - Stand Mount

NEUMA Professional Microphone Stand with Pop Filter Heavy Duty Microphone Suspension Scissor Arm Stand and Windscreen Mask Shield for Blue Yeti Snowball, Recordings, Broadcasting, Streaming, Singing

u/Widget_pls · 2 pointsr/edmproduction

Seconding a big SSD (I like the Samsung ones, and among the types of SSDs, NVMe is usually 4x the speed of SATA if you have an M.2 drive to put one in, but only really new computers will have an M.2 port.)

The SSD won't really make anything faster but really big projects with an "old" spinny hard drive can take like 3 minutes to load.

Basically if you have a true ASIO card (and not a card which is "compatible" with ASIO4ALL since all cards are but it's fake ASIO) anything with an i3 or better (i3, i5, i7, i9, Xeons at 2.4ish GHz or faster, any AMD Ryzen or Threadripper processor) is probably fine.

It's worth pointing out that Intel laptop processors are like half as powerful as desktop ones, and a laptop i5 is usually about as fast as a desktop i3 (so subtract 2 from the "i" number.) For the most part AMD doesn't have good laptop processors yet but they'll be coming soon-ish (also under the Ryzen brand.)

I'm a fan of the Behringer UMC202HD because even though Behringer's history makes their products somewhat suspect, meaning it might break after a couple years, the drivers are "good enough", the audio quality is basically flawless, and it works with condenser mics. (To be fair it's mostly their DJ equipment people hate as far as I know since their DJ stuff doesn't like to take a beating unlike most other companies'.)

Edit: On the Amazon Questions for the specific computer you linked, someone said they were able to install a Samsung Evo 970 NVMe SSD in the M.2 port it has, but it was somewhat difficult to get to (probably because there's a bunch of stuff right next to it and NVMe drives are really small - about 2/3 the size of a stick of RAM.)

u/mstrblueskys · 2 pointsr/TwinCities

I have a buddy who runs a music studio, but if you needed the space, he'd definitely set it up for a podcast interview.

I do tend to agree that you should be able to get pretty close to studio sound on a budget assuming you have a computer already. I understand that sometimes owning stuff is a huge hassle itself, but if it's something you want to do a few times, the cost savings would start to be there.

Since no one has given you any real advice on how to do this, I can give it a shot.

I'd start by installing Audacity on your computer. It's super basic, but what you're doing is super basic. And it's super free. That's a huge plus.

Next, decide how you want to do microphones. First, you'll want stands. If it's an interview/two person thing, you'll need a couple of these (or more if you want more mics). We're at $25 for two now.

Next, decide what quality you want to be at. The Blue Snowball is a pretty great entry level microphone. I've honestly never run two into a computer before, but I imagine it'd be easy enough to record two different microphones on two different tracks in Audacity. That would bring our total to around $150. To upgrade in this way, you would go to something like the Blue Yeti. At over $100/unit, that adds another $100 to your cost.

The other way to do microphones is using a USB Interface for your computer and buying standard microphones. I'm keen on that option because it's a little more flexible if and when you look to upgrade your setup. You can use $15 microphones to get by or if you're locked and loaded, you can upgrade to really nice condensers.

As far as soundproofing goes, you can decide if that's possible wherever you're at. The last voice over project I worked on, I hung blankets in my bedroom and that was perfectly fine. Obviously that's not the most professional look, but there wasn't a pile of ambient noise to deal with and the directional mics do a good job focusing on your voice. You can build sound dampening walls with plywood, insulation, and fabric if you really want. It takes a staple gun, some screws, and about an hour per panel.

Assuming you have the time, an okay computer, and about $300, you could really build yourself a nice studio. If this is a one off kind of thing, it's definitely not worth it. My buddy's place is called, The Petting Zoo and I'd be more than willing to ask him details if you want.

Either way, good luck!

u/iscreamuscreamweall · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

grab a cheap/free DAW like reaper or audacity or even garage band

grab a 2 channel audio interface

plug the stereo line outputs of the tascam tape recorder into line inputs 1 and 2 of the interface.

set the DAW to record at 16 bit 44.1

press record on the DAW and play on the tape machine



u/russiandressing · 2 pointsr/VoiceActing

+1 for being in the same boat as you! 31/F/originally from NY. Professional singer of 10+ years; have always been told I have a very unique and soothing voice. I've honestly been stewing on this for over a year and hadn't pulled the trigger until last week. I sat down and figured out what it would ACTUALLY take me (financially and space-wise) to give it a real try.

I have a closet in my current "studio" with all of my guitars and what not; I figured I could commit to turning this space into a booth. I did the math and realized I could treat the space acoustically for $179. eBay had 2" foam panels for way cheaper than anywhere else. Is it the BEST product out there? Probably not - but it will definitely get the job done.

Equipment wise, I figured out that I'd need an updated USB interface and a dedicated VO microphone. I ordered both of those things for $130. Here's what I ordered:


USB interface:;amp;psc=1

Again, not top-of-the-line products, but I did my research and these both seem to be solid choices for beginners. I've cleared out the closet and I'm currently waiting for the panels to arrive. They get here tomorrow, so hopefully I'll be able to install them on Thursday or Friday morning. They need to "sit" for a bit to uncompress. Haha.

Anyway, I hope my story has helped you! As soon as I get my booth set up, I plan to take webinars and learn, learn, learn. I'll also spent a significant amount of time just recording practice scripts. I learn by doing, so there will be a LOT of doing going on. Haha. I feel as though I could be a tiny bit ahead of the game since I have experience recording and I'm comfortable with recording software and gear. I've also been using my voice as a tool for over 10 years..but in a different way.

Good luck and feel free to hit me up if you need some motivation! I know I've doubted myself multiple times since committing, but I've gotta go for it.

u/Onotaro · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Yeah, and there are plenty of options depending upon what you want to spend. Of course, new is more expensive. If your budget is a little flexible, my recommendation is to grab an MXL 770 and a [Steinberg Ur12](] or Mackie Onyx Blackjack. They are very similar, but if you think you'll also do audio editing at any point, the UR12 offers higher sampling rates, which means you can edit at higher quality; otherwise, the Mackie may be the better option just because it lets you control monitoring from your voice with with a knob on the interface. If you need a mic stand and XLR cable, check out this ebay listing for the MXL 770. These sub-$200 combos would last you a long time, and sub-$200 is very cheap for a complete new audio setup.

If you can't/won't pay that, you can keep the great mic and go for a cheaper interface; the Behringer U-Phoria is $30.00 on B&amp;H (see the link). It's out of stock right now, but it should be back by the end of the month. It's also $50 on Musician's Friend. It's not as good as the Steinberg, but it gets the job done for audio at a very low price. So that's $130-150 for solid entry-level audio recording. If you got this setup and wanted to upgrade in the future, I would replace the interface first, probably to a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2.

If your budget is really flexible, I would spring for the 2i2 from the outset, personally. You could also invest in a better mic stand or mic cable, but any of these builds will get you started at a good price.

Edited to include the Mackie Onyx Blackjack.

u/Diviark · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

I am thinking of buying Steinberg UR12 Audio Interface and I have 2 questions. Any better alternatives at around the same price? I am aware of the focusrite but I've seen people complain they have problems on windows so maybe would be a bad choice for me (I use windows 10 64bit)?

And now for the stupid it fine for an audio interface to be pluged in-out a lot of times? In the morning I will have to plug it in to my laptop and at night take it out. Will there be any problems with this? I guess not but doesn't hurt to ask!

u/CmoreClams · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Can you make a recommendation on a beginner keyboard?

I played guitar for a few years in high school, and also took a piano class that I learned very little from. I’m familiar with making music, but never really learned theory or got into anything advanced.

I’m now 10 years removed from that and looking to jump back in. I recently got an acoustic, but I’d really like to learn piano and music theory, so that I can make electronic music sometime down the road.

Do you see any obvious issues with this?;amp;qid=1562161755&amp;amp;s=gateway&amp;amp;sprefix=midi+ke&amp;amp;sr=8-4

I figure it’s cheap enough that I won’t get upset if I can’t dedicate enough time to it, but cheap enough to buy it right now while the motivation is there!

Thanks in advance.

u/WhompaStompa · 2 pointsr/vaporents
u/bag_of_puppies · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

If you want to continue to use FL Studio, I strongly recommend you switch over to using a PC - you will always have problems with the FL Alpha/Beta/whatever for OSX until they actually make a fully native version (which is a day that may never come.)

If you want to stick with OSX, then yes, learning Logic or Ableton is the way to go. Both are great, and really won't take you that long to get the hang of. There are also some pretty awesome deals to be had for MIDI controllers out there.

u/BallPuncher2000 · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

this guy is fine for starting out. $40 ultra portable. Upgrade when you can justify the expense to yourself. At least that's how I roll.

I get most of my VSTs from and

u/blazednconfused86 · 2 pointsr/audio

Oh in that case I would switch up it


Interface - The one you had didn't have Phantom Power (48V), which is required for 90% of condenser microphones, I wouldn't buy an interface without it. Focusrite is going to offer better preamps, expandability, and is just a better offering. Yes this adds +$20 but if I were to compare value add I would say the Focusrite interface adds $100 if not more over the Line6.;qid=1565645877&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3

Microphone - while that AT2020 is a nice microphone, I wouldn't be an audio nerd if I didn't recommend consider trading it out for a Shure SM58. It's a rite of passage mic, it's going to sound good out of the box, but you can learn how to make it sound even better. It's also going to pick up less unwanted noise (mom yelling that hotpockets are ready, cops bursting in your room when you been swatted.;creativeASIN=B000CZ0R42&amp;cv_ct_id=amzn1.osp.d1fabffa-c2ec-4fa0-ae31-2e07a178f49c&amp;cv_ct_pg=search&amp;cv_ct_wn=osp-search&amp;keywords=sure+sm58&amp;linkCode=oas&amp;pd_rd_i=B000CZ0R42&amp;pd_rd_r=a40496d4-0539-4f37-a1f5-06c41f3afb62&amp;pd_rd_w=zLA9w&amp;pd_rd_wg=YvsDi&amp;pf_rd_p=c501273b-119a-4fc9-ad78-eda5006b0be9&amp;pf_rd_r=K79XXEN93XVP9C4Z5Q2R&amp;qid=1565646518&amp;s=gateway&amp;tag=popularscience_os-20#customerReviews


The boom arm you have will work with any mic so you leave that.


If your budget is strict here's a bundle that has the Scarlett Solo and the AT2020, which has solid reviews.;qid=1565646973&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-10

u/aerofly0610 · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers
u/ravine420 · 2 pointsr/audio

From my experience, I think you should probably go with an external audio interface like this (cheaper options out there, just get one with midi in) and use the midi input. With the asio4all driver I was getting latency under 10ms and it felt fine. Just get buffer size as small as you can without getting distortion. As for playing along, the easiest way I've found to do that is just download the track and import it into your DAW. It's a little more work but I never had good luck trying to use my browser or media player separately. Hopes this helps you.

u/riot-punch · 2 pointsr/nrl

If you just plan on dealing with the PC's audio output, then a midpriced audio card will give you better amplificiation and conversion.

If you want to record to the computer, your best bet is a USB device, like these:

u/PoohBear-in-The100AW · 2 pointsr/GWABackstage

I use Shure SM57 running through a Forcusrite Scarlet 2i4 2nd Gen. My oldest technique was using Voice Record Pro 7 on my iPhone, and strategically recording in certain rooms, or setups. Afterwards, I edited in Audacity, but I've since moved over to Reaper.

Some mistakes I made along the way (and extra):

  • Smartphones are perfectly acceptable and money conscious way too record. The catch is you'll need to be good at editing to get the sound quality your probably looking for.

  • I researched a ton, before I bought, and when I finally had the money to purchase it, I still didn't feel comfortable (there's a reason why). Even if you think you're done, research it more. Be absolutely 100% with no maybes, while also being realistic.

  • What I was paranoid about what the Scarlett 2i4 having some sort of issue of being quiet/compatibility issues, or the mic would break easy. Well it turns out neither of those are true. That is unless you pair them together and then everything seems true. The SM57/58 don't work well with the Scarlett 2i4 without a preamp to run between the DAI and microphone, such as a Cloudlifter CL-1 or CL-2.

  • Know what your mics do, and what they excel at. Seriously, know your microphones well.

  • Don't cheap out on a stand; buy something of quality. You don't want to drop a $500 condenser mic, because you wanted to save $20 on a stand.

    My wishlist is annoyingly long, so I'll refrain from posting it.

    E: I'm not sure if many will see this, but it's still worth posting. I did a walk through of my house using my iPhone 6+ and Voice Record Pro 7, showing off how different rooms sound, as well an unedited recording can be (you should always edit). Blanket monster is your friend.
u/DicedPeppers · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

Any interface would work. Save money and get this one

Take the money you saved and put it towards a better mic or something

u/tunnelsup · 2 pointsr/podcasts

I'm not good at equipment, but I seem to remember that a condenser mic needs phantom power to work. I'm not sure if that converter works but something like this would work:;amp;qid=1510076865&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=scarlett+solo

It has the XLR input, USB output back to computer. Also it has a headphone jack so you can hear what the mic is picking up.

u/lovebot5000 · 2 pointsr/hometheater

First, I don't think this is the right sub for this, but I do have some experience with mics and interfaces. I use the Focusrite Scarlett interface with my mics and it sounds very good.;keywords=scarlett+2i2&amp;qid=1563802357&amp;s=musical-instruments&amp;sprefix=scarl%2Cmi%2C148&amp;sr=1-6

If you're just doing simple, single mic recordings, then the interface i linked to will be fine. If you're doing multiple mics, Focusrite makes interfaces with more XLR ports so you can connect multiple mics and control their levels individually.

The Behringer mixer you linked to is really for turntable DJs, and does not seem to have XLR ports so it won't work with the mic you're looking at.

u/cunningwatermelon · 2 pointsr/skyrimmods

Sorry for the delayed response: Yeah, step one is to usually invest in a decent cardioid mic and an audio input. Here are the ones I'd recommend for getting started. Good enough quality to be just under professional tier, though capable of producing professional quality sound, but not so expensive as to offer you features you don't need for years to come:
Audio Interface (to be able to plug that or any other professional mic into [XLR input]):;amp;psc=1

and this is optional but can be helpful to understand the true sound of your recordings, monitors:;amp;psc=1
(either the 3.5 or 4.5 would be totally fine)

Aside from t hose t hings, the only other things you'd need to get set up would be soundproofing foam, either putting panels up around your space, or around the mic itself. Conversely, you could set up inside a closet full of clothes and accomplish the same task for free, cable length and space permitting.

Good luck!

u/oatmealfoot · 2 pointsr/edmproduction

Actually the Scarlett SOLO is a bit cheaper than that even!!

It only has a pair of RCA outputs so maybe not the best for home studio usage. But it's PERFECT for me to take on the road for ableton gigs 😎

u/troll_is_obvious · 2 pointsr/Guitar

The established brands like Ditto, Boss, etc are going to be $100+. You might take a chance on something like this, but I've never heard of them before.

You might also consider getting a cheap audio interface like this. Though, again, you may actually get better value by spending a little more money. Many interfaces come bundled with DAW (Ableton Live, ProTools, etc) software licenses, like this Focusrite.

It's not as easy as plugging a loop pedal into your chain, but you'll be able to do a lot more with your investment if you climb the DAW learning curve. There's plenty of free VST plugins for pedal and amp emulations out there. Even some free open source DAW, but I haven't researched what's available in some time. Ardour appears to be the top google result at the moment, though I'm not sure how suitable it is to playing live (vs. only recording for playback).

u/Lycosnik · 2 pointsr/screaming

So you have some options, and ultimately it comes down to future ability.

Starting out, you can buy a SM58 for cheap, and it'll have pretty nice quality. It outputs mic level signal though, so it will need amped by something, which is where your choices come in.

If you're looking to keep it cheap, you can pick up an audio interface to get the mic up to a reasonable level and into your computer. Something like this. This setup will run you ~$200 in total (mic and interface), but will limit what you can do with the equipment you purchased.

If you're willing to shell out just an additional $100, you can grab a mixer like you said. This would be my recommendation. It gives you 4 mono inputs and 2 stereo inputs, opposed to the 2 mono inputs the interface above provides. It's also a fully fledged board, so you can use it for more than just getting audio from your mic into your computer. Its USB interface is pretty handy, too. It'll send 4 channels to your computer and your computer can input 2 stereo channels back to the board.

Initially I only used my board for getting my mic into my computer, but I've ended up using it for mic and guitar input into my computer, as well as computer audio &amp; DAW output to my monitors.

The board's pretty handy, but if you don't need it there's not much reason to buy it. If you're only ever going to use one channel to get your mic into your computer, you're probably better off with the interface, as setting up the board can take some time. Plus, if you don't have studio monitors / speakers that take analog input, the board isn't going to help you in getting signal to them.

So it pretty much depends on what you need, and if you plan on expanding or not. Rule of thumb, however, is to plan ahead so you don't end up spending more buying something you could have bought earlier. And if you plan on getting serious, you're going to want to pick up some studio monitors.

But again, if you're just going to be recording some covers every now and then in your room and not much else, I'd recommend going the interface route opposed to the full on mixer route.

u/Koalaazz · 2 pointsr/audio

So, what you're saying is that if I get an Audio Interface (looking at this one currently;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540419648&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=audio+interface) I would eliminate most of the static created by my sound card?

u/zenophobicgoat · 2 pointsr/IWantToLearn

Are you trying to play out, or record?

If you're trying to play out, research looper pedals. This will allow you to either create multiple tracks on the fly, or play live over stuff that you've pre-recorded and saved. I have a Boss RC-30 that has served me well, but it has a bunch of functions and may be more than what you're looking for.

If you're trying to record, you'll need to get an audio interface and some recording software (bundles like this are available that have both). This will let you directly connect your instruments to your computer, to create and manipulate sound files. If you don't want to learn all about different types of mics, mic placement, isolation, etc. this is the easier way to go. In terms of software, I use Adobe Audition, but Pro Tools is industry standard.

In terms of mixing, I wouldn't worry about being knowledgeable. Learn your setup (especially the software) and play around until you find levels, presets, patches, EQs, etc. that you like. Remember what you did and/or write it down.

And I guess write shit that you want to play.

u/kickedtripod · 2 pointsr/Twitch

Hey Tony. That's a great question.
My Credentials: I do 2 podcasts (Well Met! and The Payload) and live stream. I have thousands of dollars in microphone equipment.


Your Answer: You'll need something else to power it. The AT2035 requires +48V Phantom Power. Meaning, your 3.5mm jack wont power the microphone. The good news: These aren't that expensive. I personally recommend FocusRite interfaces. I use a Scarlett 2i2, but you'd be totally great with a Scarlett Solo. The only difference is that the solo has 1 inputs, while the 2i2 has two inputs. This wont only just give you phantom power, but the digital-to-analog converters (often called DAC) are REALLY good for spoken word and vocals... Like REALLY good and it's a preamp so it'll amplify the signal to the proper amount.


Disclaimer: There are some XLR to 3.5mm adapters that you can plug in to a standard plugin or USB to get phantom power, but I highly recommend in investing in an interface. It's one that, no matter your microphone, you'll be able to use for a long time. If you need other options in different budgets, let me know!

u/staxnet · 2 pointsr/Bass

This or this or this + laptop among other options.

u/fumblesmcdrum · 2 pointsr/VoiceActing

The way Condenser mics work requires them to have 48V "Phantom" power, which is transmitted over the microphone cable. This won't come from your PC, you'll need an audio interface that is capable of supplying phantom power over it's connector.

Here's a cheap one .

That button on the front supplies the 48V you need to operate your condenser mic.

EDIT: Even Cheaper . But I don't know about its quality

u/omen7288 · 2 pointsr/hardware

Sound cards intended for recording audio are typically called Audio Interfaces and they have lower latency and preamps intended for recording. This is critical for recording music and using sample because if you are trying to record live midi or use virtual instruments, the latency must be low, otherwise it is difficult to keep a beat when what you play comes out delayed (&gt;10ms).

I think an external one like the focusrite scarletts are good recommendations (I personally have a 2i4 2nd gen;amp;qid=1478001786&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;keywords=focusrite+scarlett). I've had some other audio interfaces in the past that were firewire, but the new usb stuff is good enough and the latency is pretty low. On my older windows box with that card I get about 10ms round trip while I can get down to 3ms round trip on my 2015 macbook pro.

He might not need that many inputs. I needed midi in because I record electric drums running midi -&gt; vst. I use the mic input and I record guitar.

u/Vendus · 2 pointsr/VidCon

If you want to try what I'm playing around with I can send u a few Amazon links.

30 dollar xlr mic
ZINGYOU Condenser Microphone...
Sound board
Focusrite Audio Interface Solo -...
AmazonBasics XLR Male to Female...

voicemod is the program I'm currently using on my PC to make it sound louder (voice mod)

I'm not 100 percent on this being the best setup and I definitely have a list of better xlr microphones but those are more expensive at the moment.

u/brettmac808 · 2 pointsr/Twitch
  1. Microphone

  2. USB Audio interface Option #1 (Has RCA + 1/4 inch balanced)

    This is the golden standard for high quality Mic input as well as output. The audio drivers on the Scarlet models are simply crisp and clear. There are other options that work, but like a bicycle...they all ride different. This is simply the very best without a doubt at your price range. You could easily spend $500-$700 on an audio interface, but for youir streaming needs, this is literally perfect

    Note, this is what I utilize for my Stream, and get compliments on the professional audio quality of my Mic almost daily.;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1525297509&amp;amp;sr=1-1&amp;amp;keywords=scarlett+2i2

  3. USB Audio Interface Option #2 (Has RCA outputs only)

    *Next best option, if you do not plan to run to Speak Monitors like KRKs or Mackie's. This will give you the same quality of audio input from your Mic. But if you are planning to use Monitors, the 2i2 above will give you the best output audio quality being that the 1/4 inch is balanced audio.;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1525297603&amp;amp;sr=1-3&amp;amp;keywords=scarlett+solo

    Trust me. Anyone who knows what they are talking about when it comes to audio, not just streaming...will agree. LMK if you have any questions...happy to help.
u/Shado_Temple · 2 pointsr/Twitch

Having just gone through this myself, it isn't so bad. Essentially, all you need is an XLR cable (duh) and some kind of USB interface. I personally got the Scarlett Solo to run my Shure SM7B, and it's working like a charm.

u/PostRinseAndRepeat · 2 pointsr/Guitar

I've been wondering the exact same thing! I use a Rocksmith cable currently but been looking at this focusrite interface for a while. If anyone could weigh in on if it's worth it I'd appreciate it!

u/plumeofsmoke · 2 pointsr/Songwriting

Yeah i mean i wouldn't fight your creative process but embrace it. Only try different approaches when you get stuck. If electric works, use it.

If its a noise issue, i recommend buying a digital amp that you can use with headphones. The Fender Mustang Amp is hella cheap and lets you model a ton of amps- the twin reverb setting is the best though. You can even plug in your computer to experiment with modeled effects pedals for more inspiration.

Or what I really like to is use an audio interface like this and plug my guitar directly in. Then with certain DAWs that have it like Logic you can use the amp modeling and effects modeling and listen through headphones also.

u/Tremorr · 2 pointsr/headphones

What mic? If it's a stage mic like a sm57 they usually have an xlr ouput. If that's the case you're gonna need a pre amp. Your mic needs power, probably 48v phantom and your computer cannot provide enough power through a 3.5mm.

This is the cheapest one ill ever recommend.;amp;pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&amp;amp;pf_rd_r=N4PXG9RSKFRVZX6CHPRQ&amp;amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;amp;pf_rd_p=55d65d49-6443-5eff-9508-2fc1f0b697f7&amp;amp;pf_rd_i=11974581&amp;amp;th=1

u/ThatVRGuy_ · 2 pointsr/piano

Here's everything I bought for mine:

  • Bench - $30

  • Stand - $60

  • [Garritan CFX VST] (;amp;psc=1) - $170

  • Audio Interface - $100 Comes with ableton which can be used to record the midi and also comes with a free addictive keys piano. Pretty nice for the price. There's about 7 ms of latency when I use this setup on my laptop which is completely unnoticeable.

  • [VPC 1] ( - About $1400 dollars after shipping and a duty tax of $76 will be charged if you live in the U.S. Still cheaper than I was able to find it elsewhere

    You'll also need a nice pair of speakers or headphones. I use the Audio-Technica ATH-AD700x's which are open back and they sound pretty good. I actually got a set of Sterling MX5 studio monitors in addition to my headphones to set on top of the piano and they sound amazing. If you ever think you will be playing for anyone or performing I recommend getting a pair of the MX5's. It's about $200 and then $10 for a cable. They will hook right up to the audio interface.
u/blechinger · 2 pointsr/homerecording

I believe you're looking for something like the Focusrite Scarlett series of DAC/ADC units. I'd recommend this one:

There's a toggle on the device that allows you to switch between "monitor" mode and a regular pc pass through. So you can leave your headphones plugged in to the device, and the device plugged into the pc, while still being able to switch back and forth between game/jam sessions.

u/raistlin65 · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Technically, "active" means it has it's own amplifiers in each speaker with active crossovers. For example, those Rokits are "bi-amped" with a separate amp for each tweeter and driver. People now commonly misuse the term active monitor synonymously with powered monitors that do not have active crossovers with bi-amped speakers. But it has never meant it has a built-in DAC.

Those speakers may be fine without any external DAC. If you find you hear noise, then you would want to get an external USB interface with DAC, such as one of the following so you can run a balanced connection. But you may not need it.

u/gorcorps · 2 pointsr/edrums

This is the best answer.

By connecting the drumset to the interface directly via a midi cable, you won't gain much of anything... you might as well keep it plugged in directly to your computer via USB (that's what I do). I also use AD2 so have a lot of experience with it.

What the audio interface does is act as a dedicated sound card, so your biggest gain with the audio interface would be to change your AD2 settings to use that audio interface as the sound output instead of your built in sound from your laptop. Then you either plug your headphones or speakers into the interface for audio. This is where your biggest gains in both latency and sound quality will come from. Your internal sound card is okay, but a dedicated audio interface should make a noticeable difference.

I personally recommend the Focusrite Scarlett 3rd gen. I had a Behringer which works fine, but the Scarlett had better sound quality. I would recommend the Solo for your uses:

Plus that interface doesn't require a separate power supply, it's powered entirely through USB which isn't true for all of them.

So in the end you should have 2 USB connections to your laptop (one to your drum set and one to the interface) and one audio connection to the interface (either headphones or speakers).

u/BeanBroadcaster · 2 pointsr/battlestations
u/AbrahmLion · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

You don't need an XLR connection.

A new 3rd Gen Scarlett Solo costs only about $10 more than the interface you have. It has balanced TRS outputs, and those will connect to your HS5 monitors through TRS 1/4-inch cables.

u/BobaFettThicc · 2 pointsr/buildapc


If you want to pursue good audio I recommended the PreSonus Eris 3.5, they are good budget studio monitors. For headphones, I would recommend the Beyerdynamic DT 990 Pro 250 Ohm version. These are very good headphones for the price. Then I would pair the Beyerdynamic headphones with a good Audio Interface like Focusrite Scarlett Solo (3rd Gen) it's a good budget audio interface that doesn't break the bank. For a microphone, a Blue Yeti USB mic will do well. However, if you want an XLR microphone, which is better btw. A well-rounded XLR microphone is the Audio-Tecnica AT2020.

u/R530er · 2 pointsr/audio

TL;WR: I don't know how to do that, but if you'll indulge me...

First of all, my professional opinion would be for you to sell the headphones and just buy good stereo ones, since surround sound doesn't work when every speaker only plays for one ear. It's absolute snake oil. I'd also say you should avoid USB headphones, partly for these kinds of reasons.

What's happening when you use USB headphones is that the signal in that cable is digital, ones and zeros, a speaker can't play that, it needs to be converted to analog. In a USB headphone this usually happens using a DAC (Digital-Analog Converter) built into the headphones. These are almost never particularly good, especially not when they have to push 7 channels of audio and still be light enough to hang off your head.

Issue here is that W10, generally speaking, can only output through one DAC per program. And if you're legitimately pushing surround sound to your headphones, then splitting that signal to another pair of stereo headphones is going to be even more trouble, since you've got 7 channels and he's got 2.

The natural solution would be a virtual aggregate device, playing one signal through two DACs, but as far as I know it's impossible to create aggregate devices on Windows on a system level. As far as I see it, you've got two options: Either go back to the way you did it before, or sell those headphones and spend the money on a decent entry-level DAC and some good stereo headphones.

Sorry if this wasn't of much help. I seriously do want to help, because I was annoyed with the same problem before, when I was stuck with my old Mad Catz headphones, so if you have any questions or thoughts, throw them at me.

u/jedinatt · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

This is recommended on noaudiophiles site:

Honestly though, volume +/- buttons on a keyboard will work in a pinch.

u/Bishoop47 · 1 pointr/microphones

Okay, I just looked up SLX4 and we're not paying anywhere NEAR that price.
You basically need an adapter from the Mic connection (XLR) to USB, I think you can get adapter cables for this seeing as Dynamic Mics don't need something called Phantom power, but what I did was buy something called an Audio Interface.

An Audio Interface is basically the Soundcard you're computer comes with to control sound going in and out, but wired up by USB on the outside, with the XLR port(s) you need, plus mic volume and speaker volume dials (sometimes headphone volume too) and often little tweaks to make sound nicer in general.

Seeing as you don't need Phantom Power you can probably buy the cheap ones and be completely fine with it;amp;qid=1465059155&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=audio+interface+xlr

u/thoughtprovoka · 1 pointr/makinghiphop

I went the super cheap route and went with a Lexicon Alpha. I use it perfectly with my SP-303 and SP-404.

u/Rick-Ross-Grunt · 1 pointr/edmproduction

Hey thanks a bunch, and would this work for now as opposed to the pre sonus audio box?
but again, thanks so much for the advice there :);amp;qid=1464111282&amp;amp;sr=8-7&amp;amp;keywords=USB+Audio+Interface

u/dorekk · 1 pointr/headphones

Yeah, run them with a balanced audio interface. You can get one for as cheap as $50:

u/m00n3r · 1 pointr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

I've been very happy with my Lexicon Alpha for the price.

u/zero_volts · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Hey, I am also using a set of the MK1 version of the LSR305 with a PC. I think everyone is spot-on about the ground loop isolator. If you are looking for a cheap fix, try that first.

Beyond that, like many have suggested - the on-board audio from a PC can be noisy. An external DAC is also a good suggestion, but also a more complicated one, in terms of what all you will need to buy. If you wish to go this route, I will make a recommendation that I can confirm works very well (noise-free, even at high volume) with the LSR305's:

  1. Lexicon Alpha - Currently $59 (regularly $49, track price on if you want to wait.) Yes, technically is a DAC, but is considered a USB recording interface. Think of it as a USB sound card. It is designed to be used with powered studio monitors like the LSR305's - and will take advantage of their balanced audio input capability to cancel out noise. Bonus capability - a physical volume knob (no reaching behind the JBL's, or trying to get to PC soft mixer while in a game, etc), and adds an aux input - you could connect your phone and mix phone+PC audio at the same time.

  2. 1/4" TRS balance audio cable - get 2, one for each speaker, in the length you prefer. See the 3 contacts (between the 2 black rings)? Each speaker will get a balanced signal from the Lexicon Alpha - a positive audio signal, negative audio signal, and ground. The negative+positive balanced signal cancels out noise.

    Either way don't stress over it - the LSR305's are a great choice.
u/codemunkeh · 1 pointr/livesound

This is as good a solution as any. Most of the very cheap USB interfaces are probably the same re-branded microchips anyway.

I was going to suggest a Lexicon Alpha ($60), which has a mic plug, a headphone plug, and line outputs that could go to the TV. The mic goes straight in, but would limit you to mono game audio (2 channels: 1 is used for the mic). You can then sell/ditch the mixer entirely, maybe getting back some of the cost.

u/Exozalen · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Is this the correct item for the Lexicon Alpha?
This for the cables?

I'll expand my budget to include two new monitors for $283 plus $47 for the Lexicon and approx $7 for the cables. Does this look good?

u/leveebreaks · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

I know I'm a bit late to this topic, but I recently faced this exact issue. I was using a Lexicon Alpha as the DAC, but had decided that I wanted to swap for a higher quality DAC and headphone amp when I found a pair of Sennheiser HD700s on sale for an unreasonably low price. After a ton of research and some listening comparisons, I settled on the cliché Schiit Stack (Magni 2U / Modi 2U), using the Magni as a pre-amp for the JBLs when the headphones weren't plugged in.

I originally had the Lexicon run with balanced TRS cables, and didn't experience any hiss, but switching to the Modi 2U DAC introduced a horrible coil whine whenever my graphics cards were under load. I switched which USB bus I was using, tried a USB decrapifier (not the Schiit one, just a cheap Amazon substitute that I don't have anymore), and even tried placement changes. In the end, I swapped from USB to optical input on the Modi and solved the issue that way.

I suppose my point is, a DAC alone may not solve the problem, even a decent quality one. Make sure to buy from a place with a decent return policy and try what works best for your setup.

u/GroovinChip · 1 pointr/Guitar

Yay on the mic, nay on the interface. I suggest the Lexicon Alpha. It includes Cubase LE. It got me started years ago :)

u/zim2411 · 1 pointr/audiophile

&gt;Cheapest ones I know of are $200+.

+/u/BennyKB -- Lexicon Alpha is $50.

u/samuraialien · 1 pointr/Twitch

Lexicon Alpha can do that.

u/fluffy_ninja · 1 pointr/audiophile
u/My_Free_Toes · 1 pointr/Guitar

If you're into sort of low budget for a decent sound, I'd recommend a Lexicon Alpha Audio Interface.. Cheap, easy and gets the job done, because the USB to 1/4's don't really work well. They're very delayed.. This a USB device that takes XLR or 1/4 inch(to mic an amp or plug straight in). I recorded this plugged straight in. It has a few slight cut outs here and there but that's because mine has been banged around a bit.. I use mine for primarily Garageband, but another upside is that you can use it for Skype and other things like that.

u/aldaraia · 1 pointr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

GLS ES57 and a Lexicon Alpha. Just about $100, gets you an extraordinarily cheap mic that sounds just like its Shure counterpart (for serious) and a decent interface to use with it.

u/awesomeisluke · 1 pointr/edmproduction

Behringer UFO202 is only $40 but honestly it's a piece of junk.

302USB for $50 might be a little better. Never used it so I couldn't tell you.

This Lexicon Alpha unit for $60 looks decent for the price. Has balanced TRS outputs as well as a couple of inputs. Again, never used it so not sure how good it is.

Here's the thing, you bought a great pair of studio monitors, but any of these three options will likely output less than the potential quality of those Rokits. I really recommend spending the extra money on something comparable to the Audiobox I mentioned in my first comment to get the most out of your investment. If not, that third link would be my next choice. TRS will provide better quality than an RCA connection, hands down.

To find more options, just look up "audio interface." Add "usb", "firewire" etc to get more specific results based on your setup.

u/fritobugger · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

That is only a DAC. You want something that is both a DAC and a pre-amp with a physical volume knob. Something like this

u/skytbest · 1 pointr/Guitar

So something like this maybe?;amp;robot_redir=1

Edit: Sorry, missed your recommendation of the scarlett...

u/john1475 · 1 pointr/audiophile

Studio monitor speakers don't usually have selectable inputs because it's assumed a mixing console is in the studio. If your current interface has only one input, you might consider replacing it. Something like this Lexicon Alpha.;amp;qid=1488252399&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;amp;keywords=lexicon+alpha

u/That_Sudden_Feeling · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

If I were to use [this] (;amp;psc=1) amp, with the JBL's, would that suffice? Also will those speakers put out enough bass to fill the room well, or should I look into a subwoofer?

u/KeyboardKonan · 1 pointr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

You'll need two things to get going.

  1. A TS-Audio Cable
  2. An audio interface

    (Above links are just examples)

    Now, I do see that your YDP-142 has only Headphone out ports. I can't find a general consensus on whether these also double as Line-Out plugs, but it doesn't hurt to try.

    The worst thing that can happen is that it is too soft. Headphone out can be too low to be well recorded sometimes. At that point, you may need to buy a Headphone Amplifier as well to boost the signal. BUT! The Audio Interface, more than likely, should be able to boost it up to a level that a computer can record.

    For iPad, get Garageband. It's simple and easy to use and does everything you could want for standard piano recordings.

    Hope this helps, if anyone else knows if a headphone -&gt; AI works well, feel free to pitch in.

    EDIT: PS - please note that this solution will produce a Mono output (because of the TS cable). If you'd like a stereo recording, some experimentation will be needed with a TSR cable instead.
u/brynjolf · 1 pointr/ethoslab

Get an external soundcard to test it if you want. I use this one,

It doesn't have the best input and output slots though but it is simple and sounds great.

u/pryered · 1 pointr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

That will work but it is prone to static and damage.
If you cant wait for a decent interface, this is cheap and fairly cheerful.

u/MrCompletely · 1 pointr/grateful_dead

yeah it's this guy

stereo out for headphones, optical out for going to an amp/speakers

u/im2slick4u · 1 pointr/audiophile

So I got a pair of LSR305s a year a go to plug into my computer and use for listening to music while I work and for some gaming. When I'm at my desktop, they sound fine. However, when I get into something more intensive like a video game or exporting a video, I get some really annoying noise.

My motherboard audio doesn't work well, so if I need some sort of external interface it would have to be USB, anything analog from the computer wouldn't work. Right now I have them hooked up to this.

This is from the tweeter

And this is from the woofer

So anyways this is pretty annoying and I'd like to make it stop. I'm not much of an audio expert so I'd love it if you guys could give me some help.

I'm guessing I need a better DAC to fix this? I'd like to spend around $100 if I need some hardware to fix this. Thanks!

u/timmo1117 · 1 pointr/audiophile

Depends on your budget. You'll probably do better than the built in electronics if the turntable by getting an external phono preamp and a USB interface to your computer.

I work in a studio where I've had to do this before for installed background music. Frankly our setup is overkill if we were doing just digitizing vinyl – custom preamp into a full ProTools HDX system. You can find some good preamps and stereo interfaces for &lt;$100 though. Follow directions that come with the preamp for grounding.

Some quick finds thanks to google:
Berhinger PP400
USB Interface
Berhinger UCA202

One thing I highly recommend though: the last thing before you hit record in audacity, clean the record. Find a kit on amazon and follow the directions to avoid damaging the record. This will get rid of any dust and improve the quality noticeably. At my studio we do this even if the record is new, and it does make a difference.

Edit: fixed bad links

u/Spikke · 1 pointr/hiphopheads

Micca MB42X Bookshelf Speakers with 4-Inch Carbon Fiber Woofer and Silk Dome Tweete...

Get those and this...

And you'll be all set. Those speakers are amazing. If you are confused on how to set it up let me know. And let me know if you need an amplifier.

u/fco2013 · 1 pointr/buildapc

If it's a Dell XPS desktop, if it has a dedicated sound card, you probably move it over, as even pre-builts usually have 1 extra slot for cards on the motherboard. If it is not a dedicated sound card, then no.

So if you don't have a dedicated sound card you can try and buy a USB DAC, which is essentially an external soundcard, and are usually better than their similarly priced internal competitors.

This one is good, and cheap. Well liked in budget-phile circles. If you only need a headphone out, this is the way to go:

If you need both headphone out and speaker out this is a great DAC for $30:

u/Chris9446 · 1 pointr/bapcsalescanada

I use one of these. Ultra-Low Latency 2 In/2 Out USB/Audio Interface with Digital Output

No idea what I bought or how good it is ahaha compare to my motherboard it might be an upgrade?

u/Romanion · 1 pointr/buildapc

Wait, why do you need a microphone jack on the sound card?'

The Behringer UCA202 is good sounding while being really cheap.

u/Mazer_Rakhum_ · 1 pointr/headphones

So my old setup was the Behringer UCA202 &gt; Dayton Audio DTA-100a &gt; Dayton B652 / Beyerdynamic DT 990 250OHM

While I know this setup isn't the most ideal setup I was looking for an all in one solution for my speaker / headphone amp needs. However while I liked the Dayton DT100a amp, it was causing a humming/buzzing even at fairly low volumes (I think this was fixed in the new DTA120 version).

After some research, and even asking a few questions to /u/zeospantera I discovered that there are very few alternatives to the DTA (at that form factor). So before I invested in another amp I decided to go the very cheap route (Re. Free route) and give an old receiver I had laying around a chance at doing the double duty as headphone/speaker amp before I laid down more money for a different solution.

The amp in the picture is an old Denon DRA-365R. While I don't have a ton of experience with high end speaker or headphone amps it does sound MUCH better than my previous DTA amp and there is no hum/buzz.

I have no doubt that a more expensive DAC than the U202 + a dedicated headphone amp would be better, but I was very happy with my free solution.

As I understand it the quality of the headphone amp portion on receivers can vary very widely, but so far I'm happy with my "free" headphone amp solution.

u/irrelevant_query · 1 pointr/buildapc

DACs don't have to be expensive. here is a $30 one that works great connecting to my receiver which I use to power speakers/headphones.

Check out this thread on how to make a really nice 2.0/2.1 system

u/5tr2 · 1 pointr/ipad

It seems that you just want to sample certain sounds. You can do this the old fashioned way, wiring the iPad to the Mac through an audio interface. Best and cheapest option would be buying two Behringer UCA 202 class compliant interfaces (around 30$ each), plug one into the iPad through the camera connection kit, and the other one into the USB of your Mac, and wire both interfaces up with cinch cables. On the software side an app like Audacity is enough to capture the sounds.

2 x

You can get away with 1 interface if you use the headphone out of your iPad and wire it to the interface on the Mac side with a 3,5mm jack to cinch cable. But quality could suffer a bit.

u/givemeyournews · 1 pointr/ZReviews

Just a heads up, you can make a hyperlink on Reddit by placeing the text you want to be the line in brackets like so, [here] and the link right after it surrounded by parenthesis like this (linkgoeshere), so you get here and it shows up like this here

u/flatspotting · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

For a pure USB DAC (No Amp) it is incredibly hard to beat the Behringer UCA202 on a budget.

$29 and it will blow away the competition within the $100 range out of the water.

Incredibly in depth reviews and analysis found here:

Purchase USA:;amp;keywords=Behringer%20UCA202&amp;amp;qid=1465492082&amp;amp;ref_=sr_1_1&amp;amp;s=musical-instruments&amp;amp;sr=1-1

Purchase Canada:

u/jackdriper · 1 pointr/audiophile

Really, any sound card with audio-in would be fine for your purpose. This external card is very commonly recommended, and would also have the added benefit of being an external DAC for your headphones (you probably won't be able to hear the difference though. But maybe!)

u/6x9equals42 · 1 pointr/buildapc

If you're just using stereo I would get a cheap USB DAC like this instead of dealing with returning the motherboard.

u/5thvoice · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

A Behringer UCA202 should do the trick.

u/cyberpunkpsyborg · 1 pointr/cubase

Thank you for the feedback! The Behringer U-Control that I have is the silver colored one, like this one...;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1512068272&amp;amp;sr=1-2&amp;amp;keywords=behringer+u-control

My keyboard is connected to a Xenyx mixer, the mixer is connected to the macbook via the U-Control. I suppose I have to add the U-Control to my Cubase Input through Device Set up first? I don't have any MIDI connection, I believe this is purely digital connection, no MIDI connections.

u/BurningCactusRage · 1 pointr/buildapc

I have one of [these.]( U-CONTROL UCA202 It's cheap, and you can put it next to your keyboard or somewhere else on your desk. As simple as plugging in your headphones or the 3.5mm for your speakers.

Alternatively you can buy ones that have switches instead and use that.

u/frsmtc · 1 pointr/ZReviews

Behringer UCA202

You just need a RCA to 3.5mm adapter for mic in. Clean DAC, low powered amp stage - I'm not certain about how hard superlux is to drive. The behringer drove my IEMS well but had bass distortion on my planar and high impedance headphones.

u/Quinnelton · 1 pointr/audiophile

Since I want to use headphones and speakers how does this DAC look?

u/kare_kano · 1 pointr/headphones

Well the HD600 is the most obvious upgrade choice.

They need amping, but they're not hard to drive and they scale well with amp quality. This means you have some flexibility when it comes to the amp. If you plan on upgrading to a better amp in the future, grab an UCA202 for the time being, and save for a $100+ amp for later. If you want an amp now and are not looking for an upgrade in the near future, get a FiiO E10K or SMSL SD793-II.

You can also try simply using them straight out of your PC for starters, if you happen to have a higher quality motherboard by any chance you may be pleasantly surprised by its ability to drive them, and you can postpone getting an amp and save the $30 for the UCA202.

u/Blais_Of_Glory · 1 pointr/AVexchange

Would this be what I'm looking for? Or would it be something else?

EDIT: Would this work too? Or this Turtle Beach one? Or this StarTec one? Or this Behringer UCA202?

u/Samzflow · 1 pointr/audiophile

Best bang for your buck will be an integrated amp. Something like the budget stereo amp Onkyo A-9010;amp;qid=1463557044&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=onkyo+9010 If you want to include the surround speakers you will be compromising on the quality of your stereo system but something like this would work:;amp;qid=1463556947&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=RX-V379

Seeing as you play a lot of music from your computer it might be worth looking into getting a DAC although the onkyo amp mentioned above already comes with a built it DAC it only has optical or coaxial inputs.;amp;qid=1463557388&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=uca202

edit: I didn't check your speakers, it is possible they need more power to run than the above mentioned amps.

u/Jerem3782 · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

It roughly means it doesn't have a true audio output but pretends to.

Try fixing the video out first. If the analog audio quality is good then use it.

If it isn't get a cheap USB sound card with this list but I think most cheap ones will work anyway. It will suffice. Some people also use this more expensive one if I remember correctly but I don't think you'll notice a difference as long as you don't use a high quality sound setup.

I don't think you'll be able to have video via composite and audio via HDMI at the same time.

u/SleepNowintheFire · 1 pointr/audioengineering

Check what kind of outputs your record player has, you might need something like this and some RCA cables which is what I have to use

But definitely start recording into your computer if you're getting into this, gives you way more control and you can monitor the recording in real time and not have to check it all later.

u/praetor- · 1 pointr/htpc
u/WakeUp_SmellTheAshes · 1 pointr/audiophile

As far as I know the only solution is to separate the DAC from the rest of your laptop. This avoids "noise" from the hard drive and other components.

This might work. I say might because it is usb powered and usb ports can have noisy power and you will end up hearing that through your headphones. I, however, have found that there is usually one usb on a given computer that gets clean power.

There are more expensive options out there that aren't usb powered, but I don't know how much you want to spend.

u/FeelsTeamSix · 1 pointr/audiophile

I made a little research, Now I'm thinking of this set-up (including cables):
&gt; (Two of these)
Total of $204.60, Is this a good buy?

u/the_blue_wizard · 1 pointr/audio

Depending on how much money you have to spend, you might want to consider this product - $29 -

PC and Mac compatible, both RCA IN and RCA OUT, USB does not require external power.

u/uglyfool · 1 pointr/hackintosh
u/WillTheHoopsGuy · 1 pointr/buildapc

If you're using a USB mic, a soundcard is kinda pointless, as your mic is going to bypass it and, unless you're hearing hiss/distortion, onboard sound is going to be fine for casual listening/basic editing.

If your onboard audio out sucks, something like a Behringer UCA-202 should do the trick.

If you don't mind going used, something like an M-Audio Fast Track or PreSonus AudioBox USB would give you more options down the road.

u/KnastyGrant · 1 pointr/makinghiphop

You can do this a couple of ways. I used to get like a YouTube clip and convert it to an mp3 through any YouTube to mp3 converter websites. From there, just import the audio file to you DAW of choice and chop it up there. Recently, I've been finding a lot of video samples from Netflix or some other streaming site, so I use an audio interface like similar to this one here, record that to Audacity, and chop it there.

u/laydros · 1 pointr/audiophile

An audio interface would be to have a better soundcard than there is on your laptop. Unless your laptop has a fancy isolated soundcard, even something like the $30Behringer UCA202 would help. The main issue with an onboard soundcard will be noise, and in my experience with cheap external soundcards, you get a little bit better instrument separation and cleaner sound. I have a Fiio E07 and Fiio E10.

u/EndTrophy · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

What I'm confused about is if the receiver has a built-in dac or not, and if that works when its being fed through RCA. RCA sends analog signal doesn't it? So wouldn't it be digital(computer) out analog(RCA) then digital again (receiver) and playing through my speakers(in analog), is that how this works? I can't find any $10 minidisc players, but I there is a behringer DAC for $30

u/ThatOneW33b · 1 pointr/GlobalOffensive

it could , but for these headset i would recommend to buy a cheap DAC like this one for better sound quality

u/seamunkey · 1 pointr/audiophile

It's a $30 DAC/headphone amp.


u/TheBraverBarrel · 1 pointr/headphones

Budget - ~$100-150, USA

Source - Behringer UCA202 USB DAC (1, 2)

Isolation - I want dat soundstage. Open

Preferred Type of Headphone - Over ear

Preferred tonal balance - Neutral, bass is cool though

Past headphones - m50s, they're great but have a narrow soundstage

Music - A little bit of everything (drum and bass, rock, metal, trap, electronica, EDM, house) and games

I've been looking at the 558s and they seem like the fit for me. Any advice?

Also, looking for a &lt;$15 microphone for gaming with friends. Suggestions?

u/residualbraindust · 1 pointr/NoAudiophile

Well, everything arrived. The UMIK-1 is a nice piece of hardware. To complete my desktop setup I also got:

  • The Pioneer BS-22s
  • One Behringer UCA202 DAC

    Now for the best part. I scratched some extra cash this month out of my budget and also ordered (they are yet to arrive):

  • Sennheiser HD650 headphones
  • Monoprice Desktop Headphones Amp / DAC

    I'm thinking that the next step would be to move to the O2+ODAC. I'd like to build them myself, so I'll probably order one O2 kit first and later either the ODAC PCB with the DAC already soldered, or the entire soldered ODAC PCB.

    Also for the future is upgrading my closed back headphones I use at work, probably to an NVX XPT100 (thanks /u/ZeosPantera for leading me to them). Then I'll move the Monoprice Amp/DAC to the office to drive them and keep the O2+ODAC at home. The current headphones I have at the office sound pretty decent but I can't wear them for more than an hour. So comfort is paramount for my office headphones.

    What do you think?

    Can you point me to good resources on how to use REW + the UMIK-1 to measure the speaker responses? I still have the BS-21s (they'll be shipping back to Amazon soon) so I'm planning to measure them too. I didn't remove the grilles from them because I think it will be hard to stick them back on and don't want to return them without them on. So far I've read these articles:

  • UMIK-1 setup with REW
  • Loudspeaker measurement with UMIK-1 and REW

    Will that be enough?
u/jelly_battleship · 1 pointr/audio
u/neroveleno · 1 pointr/italy

Se il tuo laptop ha un solo minijack che comprende sia cuffie che microfono allora si tratta di un connettore TRRS (minijack 4 pin, come quello degli smartphone). In questo caso puoi registrare solo mono, cioè un singolo canale, quindi dovresti procurarti un adattatore tipo questo e connettere l'uscita L/R della tastiera alla femmina di ingresso (in questo caso col simbolo del microfono) dell'adattatore linkato sopra.

Se invece il tuo computer ha due minijack separati per cuffie e microfono allora basta procurarti un cavo "a Y" con da una parte 2 jack TRS e dall'altra un minijack, tipo questo e connetterlo all'uscita della tastiera e all'ingresso mic del computer.

In ognuno dei due casi stai comunque facendo una cosa teoricamente scorretta, le tastiere come la tua escono con un segnale di linea (cioè un segnale già amplificato che non richiede ulteriore guadagno) mentre gli ingressi del pc si aspettano un livello microfonico (cioè un segnale che richiede amplificazione). Inserendo un segnale di linea in un ingresso mic avrai probabilmente problemi, il segnale in ingresso risulterà distorto. Inoltre gli ingressi mic dei pc sono merda vera, sono pensati per gli auricolari per skype, non per la musica.

Vuoi quindi il mio consiglio vero? Procurati una scheda audio esterna usb. Ne esistono per tutte le tasche e anche qualcosa di veramente cheap tipo questa oppure questa sono comunque meglio di qualsiasi ingresso audio integrato nel pc.

u/Cartossin · 1 pointr/audiophile

I would look for USB to toslink and just get the $4 adapter that converts to USB-C. You might be looking for a while if you want native USB-C. (and it doesn't matter for this purpose)


and adapter:;amp;qid=1523988357&amp;amp;sr=8-7&amp;amp;keywords=usb-a+to+usb-c

That will all work w/o drivers on the newer macs.


u/CapnJustin · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I'm looking for an external USB audio solution to replace onboard soundcard but am confused as to what to get that will work well with my headphones. I have already tried a cheap USB external sound card from amazon but the sound quality was poor. Would something like this work? Or this?

Any advice would be appreciated.

(I have these [headphones] (;amp;psc=1) )

u/EdgiestOfEdgelords · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

This woud be a pretty nice setup for $360:

  • Behringer U-Control UCA202 $30
  • Swan Speakers - M50W 2.1 System $280
  • Audio-Technica ATH-M20x headphones $50

    The Behringer U-Control is a good DAC that you can connect your active 2.1 loudspeakers to. It has a headphone output that is powerful enough medium impedance headphones like the ATH-M20x. The majority of the budget goes where it matters most (the speakers) and you don't pay a lot of money on features you don't need.
u/andyooo · 1 pointr/GooglePixel

I am using Wear Audio Recorder, and it does record from the mic, both from my USB-C Pixel Buds, and the Google USB-C adapter w/ Sony STH40D (had to raise the gain to "X7" with the latter). This was on a Pixel 2 XL on Android 10. It's weird that most other apps don't though, that seems like a basic function of an audio recorder.

Are you sure you got the correct cable? In order to do that properly you need more than just one cable, usually some kind of mixer, cause while splitting 1 channel into 2 outputs (L/R) is trivial, joining 2 into 1 is not and shouldn't be done without a proper mixer adapter cause you could damage the output. You can just choose one of the output channels and route it to the mic input pins in the TRRS, but that would require a special cable that you might have to build yourself, not sure if you can just find it in a store. Another thing is that you may have impedance issues which may affect the level of the sound, or even make the phone not detect its presence, which may or may not be what you're experiencing.

Although I haven't tried it myself, if you have good return policies in your country, you can try an inexpensive USB interface (and connect it to your phone with the included A-to-C adapter) and it should work even better, and would be the proper way to do it.

Edit: Just tried with a USB interface, and it does just work, can even record in stereo if you want.

u/frawstburn · 1 pointr/Twitch

So a USB mixer won't show up in my playback devices with track 1/2, 3/4, 5/6, 7/8? My mbox currently shows up like this under the recording devices. Wondering if this can be accomplished with a single mixer for outputs.

Could totally pick up 2x USB audio cards like this Behringer U-Control and have my main PC audio go to #1 and skype go to #2 and have those both go to channels 3/4 and 5/6 on the mixer for separate audio controls.


u/_PoopSoup_ · 1 pointr/CarAV



Both for $100.

u/Some_Random_Nob · 1 pointr/headphones

Sweet thanks for the info, would this work fine with the M40x's or should I get something a tad better. I don't want to spend too much on this but I also want the best sounding audio I can get with the M40x's and if I have to spend another 20$ more than that I would.

u/VinnySauce · 1 pointr/pcgaming

I use a Behringer UCA202 (£24 with Amazon Prime) USB sound interface. It's pretty small, doesn't need external power either and sounds great.

u/softkeks · 1 pointr/OP1users

I recommend the behringer uca202 (the uca222 is the same in red) if you only want to use it for simple monitoring/recording/listen with headphones. the sound quality you get good and you don't get anything better for this price.
you can use this cable for stereo input

u/buttaholic · 1 pointr/cassetteculture

i've used this with success. i originally bought it so i could bypass the on-board sound card when using speakers/headphones because the on-board sound was causing a constant hissing noise.

there is also a slider in audacity where you can adjust its input volume. (there are two, one for output volume and one for input volume). they are at the top right of this UI image. maybe raising the input volume could solve your problem (if it's not already turned up).

u/cablexity · 1 pointr/livesound

Behringer UCA202:;qid=1541475191&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=behringer+usb+soundcard

It's nothing special, but it's a cheap and easy 2 in/2 out RCA interface. I've had one floating around for various little tasks for like six years, it's been super reliable and it's literally $30.

u/cinnamonsneeze · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile
  • save money with the amp. I use a Yamaha S-201 and it more than enough power. I drive $1300 speakers with it. Spend the additional cash on speakers
  • add a subwoofer only if you really have to later on, if you already know that you WANT a subwoofer then you should look for a used amp with a sub out
  • spend as much of your budget as possible on speakers! If you can get the amp for $100 then go and get a pair of ELAC Uni-fi UB5 for $395, they easily hold their own among speakers costing 3 times as much
  • source depending on what you use as source you should either get an old CD player (or even a Playstation 1) or you need a DAC for your PC to connect to the system. A great and cheap DAC is a Behringer U-Control. I've used one for years and it was great

    Speakers, AMP, DAC -&gt; perfect start for about $500. This setup will obliterate anything at its price range
u/cnbll1895 · 1 pointr/vinyl

Ok, this is easy. You have a remote to choose which input to play music from.

Plug your turntable (phono preamp output) into the RCA input.

Plug a 3.5mm aux cable from your computer into the 3.5mm input if you want to have your computer do the digital-analog conversion. If you want your speakers to do that, you need something that will allow you to go from USB to TOSLINK optical, like this (

u/brohammad · 1 pointr/battlestations

I just used my old Behringer UCA202 (, which is hidden behind my desk, for the SMSL.

u/MatNomis · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

They might. As promised, I found a promising link--in the case you do need some kind of dongle. I haven't used this one, but it does appear to support stereo input. Most of the smaller audio-input dongles only have mic inputs, not proper line-in's, and the input is mono-only. Obviously, that'd weaken the Switch's audio experience. This one clearly has left/right audio input, and claims to have virtually no latency:;qid=1551116306&amp;sr=8-17&amp;keywords=usb+line+in+audio+adapter

It's $30 instead of $7, but it's got a lot favorable reviews and definitely does stereo input. That said, I was only looking on amazon. There might be something better on a more narrowly focused website.

u/_kimjongtrill_ · 1 pointr/FL_Studio

yeah you might want to look in to grabbing a cheap usb interface and use your cdjs then :) something like this would help

EDIT: i originally had the traktor audio 2 on here but that one might not let you go in from the mixer to record on the PC. i am not sure it's been a while since i used one...

u/plumbus_007 · 1 pointr/Beatmatch

If you are using Traktor (I'm guessing here) then you can buy a Native Instruments Audio 2 and configure Traktor to use 2 soundcards. Since the K2 is a 4-channel soundcard as well as a midi controller you will then have 4 stereo outputs you can route through the Xone 42. (You could also buy 2 Behringer USB interfaces and use the K2 to spend a little less money and have the ability to record back into Traktor. I've never tried 3 using 3 soundcards, but I assume it's possible via the method above)


Alternately you can look for a used Audio 8 or 10 which eliminates the need to aggregate soundcards.



u/Insxnity · 1 pointr/audio

This combo has been very nice for me. Input for my PS4, Alexa, PC (through usb), and phone audio.

Here’s a diagram I made on my phone. Running audio for an event at the moment.

Plug the usb card into your PC. plug the items into the mixer. Plug the Audio output from the mixer into the IN channel on the usb audio card. Flip on the “Monitor audio” switch. Plug your headphones into the convenient jack on the USB audio card.


only buy the usb audio card. You don’t need a mixer. Get a 3.5mm stereo to RCA stereo (headphone jack to red white cable). Plug this into the in slots on the usb audio card. Plug the card into PC. Plug headphones into jack on the card. It has a volume knob on headphones that will let you control it.

I would heavily recommend the usb audio card I linked. If you want more versatility, grab a mixer too. Message me if you do grab anything and need help setting it up.


BEHRINGER U-Control Uca202 Ultra Low-Latency 2 In/2 Out Usb/Audio Interface With Digital Output

u/The_Kraken_ · 1 pointr/audio
u/Hershiekopper · 1 pointr/audioengineering

Thought. I found this small interface with an optical toslink out. Could I send 8 tracks via toslink out of this thing into my motu 2408??

u/morthawt · 1 pointr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Okay so I think I found something:;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1492118729&amp;amp;sr=1-3&amp;amp;keywords=low-latency but how can I know how low it really is? When they say ultra low, that sounds pretty low to me..... Any educated guestimations of what kind of low delays are possible with this compared to what you get with a generic ASIO driver like ASIO4all or FL Studio asio?

u/ApproachingZero · 1 pointr/vinyl

Behringer UCA202 Audio Interface Its USB Powered and has volume control, Also really pretty cheap.

u/thatdudewhowins · 1 pointr/audiophile

okay awesome, so is there much difference in sound quality depending on how its connected to the pc? someone on the forum recommended using one of these and buying a couple of these to wire it all up, is this any better then using the cable you linked previously? i'll check out /r/headphones instead, thanks dude.

u/Thranders · 1 pointr/makinghiphop

I can't really afford that right now, would this instead? Its quit a bit cheaper.

u/Mildapprehension · 1 pointr/audiophile

Well you need an amp first of all. Some home theater receivers will have bluetooth but they aren't exactly audiophile.

I would look at used integrated amps, a usb dac, and something like this if you really want to stream via bluetooth.

Looks like the TT has a built in phono preamp so you won't need one of those and yeah integrated amps have lots of inputs so get some rca cables, or rca to 3.5mm, and you're golden!

u/IamEzioKl · 1 pointr/ZReviews

You're sure the laptop doesn't have embedded optical out on the headphone port? most don't, but some do.

Anyway, If you don't mind using the built in DAC you can get a cheap usb dac with optical out and use it.

something like that

Or get the old hifimediy 9023 for cheaper, for the current price of the uca202, the 9023 can also do optical out and support 96khz/24bit vs the 44/16 on the uca202, and the dac shouldn't be bad either.

u/arvbspring · 1 pointr/synthesizers

No magic needed, just a USB hub (powered) and an audio interface that is class compliant / doesn't need drivers. I have used this cheap device during my live set to send audio out to the mixer via USB.

u/Hunter_behindthelens · 1 pointr/AskBattlestations

Are you firm at $60? I would wait just a few weeks when you can afford something just a bit more.


My minimum requirement for Good sound would be: This Behringer DAC - $30 + This Lepy Amp - $33 + These Micca Speakers - $58 for a total around $120. And everything will be upgradable as you want, if you wanted to add a Schiit Stack with a good pair of headphones later. My headphone recommendation for under $50 is the Sennheiser HD 518's when they occassionally go on sale for less than $50, I paid $46 for mine new.


  • Edit: To save money, you can use a 3.5mm to RCA and ditch the Behringer DAC to save $30 if you want. But a separate DAC will tend to get better quality being isolated outside your computer vs. Onboard sound. This would put your total about $30 more than your budget, and be a LOT better than dedicated "computer speaker systems".
u/Aislinx · 1 pointr/ZReviews

the emotiva a-100 only have rca inputs so you'll need either a 3,5 to rca cable to connect it directly to your pc or you can use an usb dac like the behringer UCA202 and use it's rca outputs to connect the emotiva amp

u/double-happiness · 1 pointr/audioengineering

Thanks. I was wondering about this Behringer USB/Audio Interface, but I don't think that uses the TRS connectors you mention. So are you saying I should be using the balanced outputs on my mixer? By the look of it they are 2 x 1/4" jacks; I wouldn't really know as I have never used them for anything. That would actually be kind of handy as the 2 x RCA phono 'record' outputs are currently in use by my BPM counter.

u/Dekonstruktor · 1 pointr/buildapc
u/Sindroome24 · 1 pointr/audiophile

I bought the HD 598's on Black Friday.





Can I use my headphones with my amp and DAC? I was looking at the back of the amp and I noticed it only has output for normal speaker wire or banana plugs, which i don't think I can use with the headphones.

On the Amazon page the headphones say they come with a 3.5mm adaptor. Doing so would enable me to just plug right into my laptop, but this wouldn't power the headphones nearly enough, would it?

If not I can buy a new amp, I just want to avoid buying something I don't need.

Would this headphone amp/DAC work for me?

u/Kingy_who · 1 pointr/headphones

Would something like this do the job well enough on my budget? Or would this be worth it?

u/PUBERT_MCYEASTY · 1 pointr/headphones

They're running on a Behringer DAC along with a Dayton dta-100a. I got them based on the suggestions by /r/zeos as recommended by /r/audiophile. I the 2.0 system off /r/zeos because it's about the perfect setup for student housing, and the amp also works for headphones. There are better headphone amps out there, but it definitely gets the job done at a pretty damn good price.

u/streamingfeedback · 1 pointr/audiophile

The highly regarded UCA202 might work for you. It has RCA outs and is most likely a better DAC than your sound card.

u/sloma27 · 1 pointr/audiophile

Hey (I am in canada),

I recently purchased the Kanto Yumi powered (for $270 CAD), I also have a set of Sennheiser HD 598 se.

I can hear some buzzing noise when using my speakers and headphones from my MSI z97 Gaming 5 motherboard.

Since my motherboard has no optical output, I think that my only option is a USB dac. Would the Behringer UCA202 be my best option?

Is there any other affordable USB DAC? (I would love one that allows to switch output)



u/pechjz · 1 pointr/audiophile

When I go into my device manager I see the "realtek high definition audio" but I don't see anything that I could activate or anything other than the Update / Disable / Uninstall / Scan for hardware change / Properties. ( cf )

My mobo is a Gigabyte GA-P35C-DS3R rev2, it is quite old but seems to be working just fine so far.

But do you think it could work if I bought a coaxial cable? Or do I need to buy something like that or if you know a cheaper alternative it would be nice !

u/rmp5s · 1 pointr/Guitar

I actually came to this thread thinking I'd be recommending REAPER with the ASIO4All drivers as that's what I've used on Windows for years now. To see this is what you're using already is confusing. What interface are you using? How do you have the ASIO buffer set?

I have a U-Connect that my monitors are plugged into and I had a Scarlett Solo as an input which worked fine. The Solo just got upgraded to a Scarlett 6i6 though and I will be switching to Scarlett's drivers as, with the 6i6, you have to.

Edit: Clarity.

u/italianswagstallion · 1 pointr/abletonlive
u/gogonzo · 1 pointr/DJs

although i must say i had the same issue even with this interface then I talked to some fellow djs/producers and just started going in through the 2 mic inputs on my focusrite interface using a rca to dual quarter inch cable now my mixes are crystal clear

u/imatree · 1 pointr/headphones

Stereo, however I would recommend investing in a better soundcard or an external DAC.

Something like this is cheap, portable and will provide a massive improvement over an onboard soundcard.

u/zxlkho · 1 pointr/audiophile

Something like this which was recommended in another thread?

u/ioos · 1 pointr/audiophile

The Audioengine A2 are fantastic at the price point. Combine with an inexpensive DAC (like the Behringer UCA202) for even better results.

u/MockingBird421 · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Your idea about getting a usb to optical is excellent, I had never realized that was an option. A few questions:

  1. USB DACs don't require drivers or anything right?

  2. Hows this?;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1504407977&amp;amp;sr=1-2&amp;amp;keywords=usb+to+optical
    It would work better than what you recommended

  3. How do the Kanto Yumi and Edifier R1850DB compare?