Best concrete according to redditors
We found 28 Reddit comments discussing the best concrete. We ranked the 19 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 28 Reddit comments discussing the best concrete. We ranked the 19 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Glass fibers
Concrete plasticizer
Don't forget to look at tutorials on YouTube, and use the " brush on" method. Brush it into the corners and get all the bubbles out, let it dry to a semi-dry consistency, then fill your counter mold.
Quick edit: the plasticizer will make your concrete feel very "wet", but it's actually a water reducer.
Sure let me find and post back right here.
https://swe.sika.com/sv/solutions_products/bygg/sika-elastic-bonding-solutions/02a012/02a012sa01/02a012102.html
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M6LLR8J/ref=psdc_13397791_t1_B079YM51HC
If you have a masonry/stone supply house in your area they should have just about anything you need also.
>can I just add new caulk on top of the old cracked painted stuff while the tub is filled with water and call it a day?
No you can't. If you try to add caulk on top of that, it'll look like absolute shit.
Use this to remove the old caulk: https://www.amazon.com/ALLWAY-TOOL-CT31-Caulk-Tool/dp/B004BGAER8/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0KXKZVQRM0Q7PMYDZSTD
If it's really hard to remove, you can use some of this to losen it up and make it easier:
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Caulk-Remover-8-oz/dp/B000H5VNG8
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When you recaulk, make SURE that you use caulk rated for bathrooms (it'll say on the tube). It needs to be silicone caulk. Not latex. If it's not specifically rated for bathrooms, it WILL get mold on it.
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>I am worried this won't be enough though. I have never seen a tub with just drywall above it like this. So my next question is what are my options if caulking is not enough?
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It should be enough if you're not showering in the tub, or bathing kids in there. A grown up isn't going to splash the water up that high.
If you want to waterproof it more, and then tile, without making a height difference, use this:
https://www.amazon.com/CUSTOM-PRODUCTS-LQWAF1-2-Redgard-Waterproofing/dp/B000NZ73SE/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1535824995&sr=1-1&keywords=redguard&dpID=51Zf43NjFPL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
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It's a paintable waterproof membrane. Just paint it on (two coats) and it'll form a layer of 'plastic' protrecting the drywall. Then you can tile right on top of it. Use actual tile set and NOT mastic glue for the tiles. Mastic will grow mold.
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Yeah, I did a few test batches that were in the 12"x12" neighborhood. I used melamine for the forms and largely found this Ask This Old House video to be very helpful (although I didn't use the spray method for the initial coat). Key points that I used and learned:
I think that's pretty much everything. Doing a couple test pieces will teach you a ton. Have patience, have fun, and good luck!
I filled all my cracks with Akona Concrete repair. No more weeds. https://www.amazon.com/Akona-Concrete-Repair-Tube-Pack/dp/B072KTKT7X, Just powerwashed the dirt out, let dry, then spread this in there.
Use this stuff. You melt it with a propane torch:
https://www.amazon.com/DALTON-ENTERPRISES-35100-Pli-Stix-Driveway/dp/B00IPUGL50
I went to lowes (building supply) and got some concrete tube forms for my cat. cheap, paintable (carpetable also), unobtrusive, and my cat loved the heck out of them. This is the brand that I bought: Quikrete 10" tube form
This product can be applied with a 3 inch putty knife, and looks exactly like concrete from a bag when dry. It's fun to work with. Has sand in it. You may need 7 or 8 of them, but it takes very little time to get the job done. Some newspaper on the floor.
https://www.amazon.com/Premixed-Concrete-Patching-Compound-0-95L/dp/B001XW64M2/ref=pd_sbs_60_1?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001XW64M2&pd_rd_r=406XWTRXQM5WKZPHQ0FC&pd_rd_w=pXZbO&pd_rd_wg=WsyNm&psc=1&refRID=406XWTRXQM5WKZPHQ0FC
This product is also fantastic, and a 6 pack is only 35 dollars. It’s sandy and grey, shrinks a little, and can accept a second skim coat, which you may not think necessary. Also fun to work with and applies with a 3 inch putty knife.
https://www.amazon.com/32611-Phenopatch-Pre-Mixed-Concrete-Patch/dp/B015J3VTZM/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1474932669&sr=1-4&keywords=cement%2Bcaulk&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BPDB6O/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8
Right here is what I use
I would look into quikrete 5000 which can be bought a Lowes for $5-6 a bag and just add fiberglass shards for added strength. That's what i plan on doing for my bathroom vanity.
https://www.amazon.com/32-500-4-Inch-Anti-Crak-Concrete-Fibers/dp/B000CODWAE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491533180&sr=8-1&keywords=fiberglass+fibers
Here's something I stumbled across that might help you.
You might also look into faster quick drying concrete.
I've done small casting in concrete but never in a rotocaster.
I would pay attention to:
Set time- Set is how long the concrete is going to take to set up so you're going to want to leave the rotocaster running for at least that amount time. And if you're looking for a high level of detail, you going to need to water it down even more, which adds to your set time.
Cure time- I wouldn't even take it out of the mold until it got closer to the end the cure time. That way you know it'll be safe to handle.
The speed of the rotocaster- As it drying, concrete will get thicker and likely to fold in on itself. But if it spinning fast enough, I don't think you'll have an issue.
Good Luck. :)
Expected, had mine sealed in summer, some of the cracks that were sealed are open again, planning on trying this stuff out and see how it goes. It's likely the cracks were too large for the stuff they use to completely fill the void, which is why you need something that can get really down there, which the stuff I linked to supposedly does. You stuff it in the cracks, then heat it with a torch to melt it into every crevice to completely seal up the crack.
So as promised here are the majority of materials/tools I used to make the counters. I used the stain instead of actually coloring the concrete as I was worried about getting inconsistent coloring since I was doing multiple batches.
Now, my mistake I made which turned ok after the fact was that the concrete became too dense for the stain to penetrate. Despite using the sawzall to try and vibrate the air bubbles out from the bottom of the concrete but I was not able to get all of them out so there was pin holes on some of the counters. So I made a slurry as recommended and filled in all the holes and then sanded the high spots down. So when I stained the counters the areas that had been filled with slurry took to the stain very well but the actual concrete only became a darker grey. I communicated with a staff from ConcreteSolutions and they were very helpful in trying to get the stain to penetrate the concrete. I stained it probably 3 times and then just left it as it was and now I really love how it turned out despite not being as planned. Its almost like a black and grey leopard spot on most of the counters, the island area was the last poured and had hardly any air bubbles so its more solid color…
I let them sit and harden at least a week before I flipped them over and started sanding away. I did not want a exposed aggregate look so I had to be careful about sanding too much…
The stain and sealer work great and like the other user said, liquid just sits on an it and doesn’t not penetrate.
If you have any questions ask away- I had lots of friendly people help me on other forums and was very thankful for their help….
Chengs Book
http://www.amazon.com/dp/1561584843/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_3p_dp_1
Sealer
http://concretecountertopsolutions.com/products/sealers-and-polish/z-siacryl-14-sealer/
Polish
http://concretecountertopsolutions.com/products/sealers-and-polish/z-counter-shine-polish/
Dye/Stain
http://concretecountertopsolutions.com/products/stains-and-integral-colors/z-aqua-tint-dye/
Nylon Fibers
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000COCDCM
SUPERPLASTICIZER
http://www.ebay.com/itm/-/161011304020
Diamond polishing pads
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AB1UMOW
Variable speed polisher
http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/polishers/7-in-10-amp-variable-speed-polisher-60626.html
[Oatey 31321 180-Grit Open Mesh] (https://www.amazon.com/Oatey-31321-180-Grit-Open-Mesh/dp/B000KKQ694/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_tr_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GPRVJ1PZC46R4P4E146X)
I bought and used some asphalt rope crack filler off amazon for cracks. Pretty easy. Only thing to look out for is alligator cracking. That's not really repairable.
https://www.amazon.com/Dalton-Enterprises-35099-PLI-STIX-Concrete/dp/B000DZGHPO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=asphalt+rope&qid=1570842007&sr=8-3
Can i just get some normal concrete from a big box store and mix in glass fibers?
Im considering this for the concrete:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/QUIKRETE-ProFinish-Crack-Resistant-80-lb-High-Strength-Concrete-Mix/3026899
and
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CODWAE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for my fibers
I do not know where you live, but exterior rated caulk is often used for something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Electric-GE5020-Concrete-Silicone-10-1-Ounce/dp/B000BPDB6O
I do not know if that is available to you, but a local home improvement store may have something similar.
Had high radon test, used this and it reduced from 6 something to 2 something from the same test kit.
Not sure when you say your replacing your concrete floor, I assume you meant you were pouring over the existing floor and not demo'ing all the concrete first. If so, use this product and put your mind at ease.
https://www.amazon.com/RadonSeal%C3%82-Deep-Penetrating-Concrete-Sealer-5-gal/dp/B013P3QE1W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481146030&sr=8-1&keywords=radon+paint
Hey man, I know what it's like to make videos and get knocked on. I'm actually an 11 year manufacturing engineer who's poured molten metal on an industrial level, hundreds of thousands of pounds worth. I've Programmed and ran CNC machines, cut metals, drill welding, worked with water tools, abrasive tools, etc.
I've been trained by my grandfather who's been pouring metal since the 50's and my father who's been doing it since the 70's. Along with another half dozen men who all have a minimum of 20 years experience in industrial manufacturing. I'm going to give you some practical advice on how you could drastically improve your safety.
 
If you are still using that furnace, please throw it out and remake it so my grandfather can stop rolling in his grave. Use one of these materials;
Fine Kiln dried lapis sand
Silica Sand 6lbs
2200deg Rutland castable cement Fire Clay
25lbs Rutland castable cement
Kaowool Insulation Blanket
Your best bet is to use silica sand but it's typically more expensive, however it will last the longest. The refractory is really where the durability is. I'd experiment with different types, you could even try adding in fiberglass reinforcement which may increase durability. Oh and here is a K-type thermometer. You can buy some thermocouple leads and figure out the math to accurately measure your burn temperatures so you don't over oxides your metals.
And honestly, if it was me, I'd remove that video and remake it. Someone will watch that video, go out and buy cement and one day it will explode on them. That's an extremely dangerous way to make a furnace.
 
The way you set up that cuttoff wheel.... smh. Please don't do that. Also I'm sure you already read the comments but there are times when to wear gloves and when not to wear gloves. You need to use a vice or clamp any time you can if it means avoiding using gloves when using a high-speed cutter of any kind. Especially if it's a wheel. Again, it only takes once.
 
 
Overall man I like your videos but in my opinion of everyone DIY'er i watch on youtube, you are hands down the lease safe. I usually spot something you did wrong in every video you post. Whether you feel responsible for your viewers and what they do with the information you give them, is up to you. I just figured I'd give you some pragmatic advice from someone who does this stuff for a living. I actually did a few youtube videos about 6 years ago on my Channel over industrial level green sand. I'm planning on quitting my job within the next mont or two to start my own workshop/foundry/DIY/Youtube/website marketing thing from scratch. Let me know if you have any questions and I'll gladly answer them.
Here's some random tips;
Don't use pop can metal for anything structural. It's 3000's series aluminum and it's mades specifically to be malleable. Good rule of thumb for scrap metal is, if it came from something cheap, the metals cheap. The highest quality aluminum you can get for CASTING is automotive parts. Typically made from A356-T6, very good aluminum. I see a lot of guys metal down "Aircraft" or "Aerospace grade" aluminum for casting thinking it's going to be strong. It will not be, 6000 or 7000 series aluminum is all wrought/worked aluminum. It gets it's strength from massive presses that squeeze the metal into shape. Once you heat it up it looses all that strength.
T6 heat treat is the most common treat process for aluminum. If you are making something structural, heat treatment will greatly increase it's strength. But you have to use the correct aluminum for or it can't be treated (Automotive parts/A356). The process is usually 8hrs at 800-1000F then either a quench/2hrs at 300F or age hardening. With that K type thermometer you can easily set up your furnace to heat treat. Also, most aluminum age hardens once poured, usually around 21 days.
Please never wear shorts ever again when working with molten metal. It's not that it will burn your leg. It's that it will hit your leg, then fall into you shoe. Then you have a burning foot and a ladle of molten metal in your hand. I've done this with high top boots and jeans on. My father would fire my on the spot if he ever saw me pouring with shorts on. I saw a guy poure about 2lbs of aluminum into his boot once. 6 years later his still on disability. Please don't ever do it again.
Random informational videos
Metallugical nature of Aluminum and crystalizing structures
Grain Structure of Metal
Cold work vs Hot work metal. E.I. this is wrought metal like 3000, 6000 & 7000 series aluminum
Cermaic Material for Furnace Insulation
I only have experience with concrete but this is a type of additive that might be suitable, also glass fibers will add strength or really anything that will help give it some structure and rigidity https://www.amazon.com/32-504-4-Inch-Nylon-Concrete-Fibers/dp/B000COCDCM/ref=pd_sim_469_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2H3PGMH6CYWM50GJFTM3
according to my calculations, 1 oz of concrete is worth around 1 cent, making this around a 13000% markup.
> Rockite
Amazing, thanks, you mean this one? https://www.amazon.com/Rockite-Cement-5-Lb/dp/B000E29L8Q/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Rockite&qid=1559060871&s=gateway&sr=8-3
thanks, looks like a great options in the US, but good lord its expensive in the UK, I'll have a look for an alternative here, really want white....