Best concrete according to redditors

We found 28 Reddit comments discussing the best concrete. We ranked the 19 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Concrete:

u/AngusVanhookHinson · 11 pointsr/DIY

Glass fibers

Concrete plasticizer

Don't forget to look at tutorials on YouTube, and use the " brush on" method. Brush it into the corners and get all the bubbles out, let it dry to a semi-dry consistency, then fill your counter mold.

Quick edit: the plasticizer will make your concrete feel very "wet", but it's actually a water reducer.

u/PhilShiftley · 6 pointsr/fixit

Sure let me find and post back right here.

https://swe.sika.com/sv/solutions_products/bygg/sika-elastic-bonding-solutions/02a012/02a012sa01/02a012102.html

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M6LLR8J/ref=psdc_13397791_t1_B079YM51HC

If you have a masonry/stone supply house in your area they should have just about anything you need also.

u/Ishtarrr · 4 pointsr/DIY

>can I just add new caulk on top of the old cracked painted stuff while the tub is filled with water and call it a day?



No you can't. If you try to add caulk on top of that, it'll look like absolute shit.

Use this to remove the old caulk: https://www.amazon.com/ALLWAY-TOOL-CT31-Caulk-Tool/dp/B004BGAER8/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0KXKZVQRM0Q7PMYDZSTD

If it's really hard to remove, you can use some of this to losen it up and make it easier:

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Caulk-Remover-8-oz/dp/B000H5VNG8

​

When you recaulk, make SURE that you use caulk rated for bathrooms (it'll say on the tube). It needs to be silicone caulk. Not latex. If it's not specifically rated for bathrooms, it WILL get mold on it.

​

>I am worried this won't be enough though. I have never seen a tub with just drywall above it like this. So my next question is what are my options if caulking is not enough?

​

It should be enough if you're not showering in the tub, or bathing kids in there. A grown up isn't going to splash the water up that high.

If you want to waterproof it more, and then tile, without making a height difference, use this:

https://www.amazon.com/CUSTOM-PRODUCTS-LQWAF1-2-Redgard-Waterproofing/dp/B000NZ73SE/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1535824995&sr=1-1&keywords=redguard&dpID=51Zf43NjFPL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

​

It's a paintable waterproof membrane. Just paint it on (two coats) and it'll form a layer of 'plastic' protrecting the drywall. Then you can tile right on top of it. Use actual tile set and NOT mastic glue for the tiles. Mastic will grow mold.

​

u/PNWviaMO · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Yeah, I did a few test batches that were in the 12"x12" neighborhood. I used melamine for the forms and largely found this Ask This Old House video to be very helpful (although I didn't use the spray method for the initial coat). Key points that I used and learned:

  • Using caulk for a roundover works really well. Use a high contrast color between the mold and the caulk so that you can clean up excess caulk (e.g. if using white melamine for the mold, black silicone caulk is perfect). You might be surprised how much detail the concrete picks up from stray bits of caulk that you left in the mold.
  • As in the ATOH video I linked above, I used glass fiber reinforcement instead of using a metal mesh. Fwiw, I used this stuff: https://smile.amazon.com/32-500-4-Inch-Anti-Crak-Concrete-Fibers/dp/B000CODWAE/
  • Wax the whole form with paste wax before applying caulk. It makes the excess caulk peel away SOOOOO much easier
  • Add extra support to your form if needed. Concrete weighs a lot, and you don't want to have a curve in your countertop just because the mold was sagging under the weight of the concrete
  • It's worth the effort to get your mold nice and level. It also needs to be stable enough that it's not going to bounce all over the place as you hit it with a mallet to get rid of air bubbles.
  • For the form, I used screws to secure the walls to the main board. Drill generous pilot holes so that the screws pull the walls tight. Countersink the tops, and use some tape to cover the screw heads (I used painters tape). Covering the screw heads makes it easy to remove the screws after the concrete has cured and it's time to open the form. If you get concrete in the screw head, it's not the end of the world, but it's a pain to deal with.
  • Plan ahead and rehearse your order of operations before you start anything that is time sensitive (primarily when it's time to pour the concrete). Do you have enough water? Enough concrete mix? Are your tools available? If you're mixing with a battery operated drill, do you have charged backup batteries? Dust mask? Screed that can span your mold?
  • The mix especially for the part that will be visible will be soupier than you might expect if you've used concrete for things like fence posts. It being loose will allow the air bubbles to escape due to vibrations.
  • I found a firm mallet worked better and was less exhausting than a larger rubber mallet. I've seen people on YouTube use power tools like random orbit sanders or reciprocating saws, but I did not have much success with those.

    I think that's pretty much everything. Doing a couple test pieces will teach you a ton. Have patience, have fun, and good luck!
u/Bardoxolone · 3 pointsr/landscaping

I filled all my cracks with Akona Concrete repair. No more weeds. https://www.amazon.com/Akona-Concrete-Repair-Tube-Pack/dp/B072KTKT7X, Just powerwashed the dirt out, let dry, then spread this in there.

u/ArizonaLad · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement
u/vexingwinter · 3 pointsr/AskReddit

I went to lowes (building supply) and got some concrete tube forms for my cat. cheap, paintable (carpetable also), unobtrusive, and my cat loved the heck out of them. This is the brand that I bought: Quikrete 10" tube form

u/redwoodser · 2 pointsr/DIY

This product can be applied with a 3 inch putty knife, and looks exactly like concrete from a bag when dry. It's fun to work with. Has sand in it. You may need 7 or 8 of them, but it takes very little time to get the job done. Some newspaper on the floor.

https://www.amazon.com/Premixed-Concrete-Patching-Compound-0-95L/dp/B001XW64M2/ref=pd_sbs_60_1?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001XW64M2&pd_rd_r=406XWTRXQM5WKZPHQ0FC&pd_rd_w=pXZbO&pd_rd_wg=WsyNm&psc=1&refRID=406XWTRXQM5WKZPHQ0FC

This product is also fantastic, and a 6 pack is only 35 dollars. It’s sandy and grey, shrinks a little, and can accept a second skim coat, which you may not think necessary. Also fun to work with and applies with a 3 inch putty knife.

https://www.amazon.com/32611-Phenopatch-Pre-Mixed-Concrete-Patch/dp/B015J3VTZM/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1474932669&sr=1-4&keywords=cement%2Bcaulk&th=1

u/nate959 · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I would look into quikrete 5000 which can be bought a Lowes for $5-6 a bag and just add fiberglass shards for added strength. That's what i plan on doing for my bathroom vanity.

https://www.amazon.com/32-500-4-Inch-Anti-Crak-Concrete-Fibers/dp/B000CODWAE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491533180&sr=8-1&keywords=fiberglass+fibers

u/TheMarked · 2 pointsr/ResinCasting

Here's something I stumbled across that might help you.

You might also look into faster quick drying concrete.

I've done small casting in concrete but never in a rotocaster.

I would pay attention to:

Set time- Set is how long the concrete is going to take to set up so you're going to want to leave the rotocaster running for at least that amount time. And if you're looking for a high level of detail, you going to need to water it down even more, which adds to your set time.

Cure time- I wouldn't even take it out of the mold until it got closer to the end the cure time. That way you know it'll be safe to handle.

The speed of the rotocaster- As it drying, concrete will get thicker and likely to fold in on itself. But if it spinning fast enough, I don't think you'll have an issue.

Good Luck. :)

u/bigtinymicromacro · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Expected, had mine sealed in summer, some of the cracks that were sealed are open again, planning on trying this stuff out and see how it goes. It's likely the cracks were too large for the stuff they use to completely fill the void, which is why you need something that can get really down there, which the stuff I linked to supposedly does. You stuff it in the cracks, then heat it with a torch to melt it into every crevice to completely seal up the crack.

u/oregonrebel · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

So as promised here are the majority of materials/tools I used to make the counters. I used the stain instead of actually coloring the concrete as I was worried about getting inconsistent coloring since I was doing multiple batches.
Now, my mistake I made which turned ok after the fact was that the concrete became too dense for the stain to penetrate. Despite using the sawzall to try and vibrate the air bubbles out from the bottom of the concrete but I was not able to get all of them out so there was pin holes on some of the counters. So I made a slurry as recommended and filled in all the holes and then sanded the high spots down. So when I stained the counters the areas that had been filled with slurry took to the stain very well but the actual concrete only became a darker grey. I communicated with a staff from ConcreteSolutions and they were very helpful in trying to get the stain to penetrate the concrete. I stained it probably 3 times and then just left it as it was and now I really love how it turned out despite not being as planned. Its almost like a black and grey leopard spot on most of the counters, the island area was the last poured and had hardly any air bubbles so its more solid color…
I let them sit and harden at least a week before I flipped them over and started sanding away. I did not want a exposed aggregate look so I had to be careful about sanding too much…
The stain and sealer work great and like the other user said, liquid just sits on an it and doesn’t not penetrate.
If you have any questions ask away- I had lots of friendly people help me on other forums and was very thankful for their help….

Chengs Book
http://www.amazon.com/dp/1561584843/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_3p_dp_1

Sealer
http://concretecountertopsolutions.com/products/sealers-and-polish/z-siacryl-14-sealer/

Polish
http://concretecountertopsolutions.com/products/sealers-and-polish/z-counter-shine-polish/

Dye/Stain
http://concretecountertopsolutions.com/products/stains-and-integral-colors/z-aqua-tint-dye/

Nylon Fibers
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000COCDCM

SUPERPLASTICIZER
http://www.ebay.com/itm/-/161011304020

Diamond polishing pads
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AB1UMOW

Variable speed polisher
http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/polishers/7-in-10-amp-variable-speed-polisher-60626.html

u/raker5151 · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I bought and used some asphalt rope crack filler off amazon for cracks. Pretty easy. Only thing to look out for is alligator cracking. That's not really repairable.
https://www.amazon.com/Dalton-Enterprises-35099-PLI-STIX-Concrete/dp/B000DZGHPO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=asphalt+rope&qid=1570842007&sr=8-3

u/SomeCleverPuns · 1 pointr/Concrete

Can i just get some normal concrete from a big box store and mix in glass fibers?

Im considering this for the concrete:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/QUIKRETE-ProFinish-Crack-Resistant-80-lb-High-Strength-Concrete-Mix/3026899
and
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CODWAE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for my fibers

u/arizona-lad · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I do not know where you live, but exterior rated caulk is often used for something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Electric-GE5020-Concrete-Silicone-10-1-Ounce/dp/B000BPDB6O

I do not know if that is available to you, but a local home improvement store may have something similar.

u/WredditReader · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Had high radon test, used this and it reduced from 6 something to 2 something from the same test kit.

Not sure when you say your replacing your concrete floor, I assume you meant you were pouring over the existing floor and not demo'ing all the concrete first. If so, use this product and put your mind at ease.

https://www.amazon.com/RadonSeal%C3%82-Deep-Penetrating-Concrete-Sealer-5-gal/dp/B013P3QE1W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481146030&sr=8-1&keywords=radon+paint

u/Dzuari · 1 pointr/videos

Hey man, I know what it's like to make videos and get knocked on. I'm actually an 11 year manufacturing engineer who's poured molten metal on an industrial level, hundreds of thousands of pounds worth. I've Programmed and ran CNC machines, cut metals, drill welding, worked with water tools, abrasive tools, etc.

I've been trained by my grandfather who's been pouring metal since the 50's and my father who's been doing it since the 70's. Along with another half dozen men who all have a minimum of 20 years experience in industrial manufacturing. I'm going to give you some practical advice on how you could drastically improve your safety.

 

  • I saw your DIY foundry once, you used cement in the slurry mix. I hope to god you aren't leaving that thing outside. Actually I hope you never use that furnace ever again. Good move using the aquarium stuff but cement is literally the worst thing you can use for anything with a flame on it. Cement is porous, it will absorb moister. If that thing ever absorbs enough and you fire it up, it WILL explode. If you are lucky it will just crack and i know you'll probably reply, "well I've been using it for ....". Ok, that's fine but what my father taught me the first time i stepped foot in our shop, "Dzuari, all it takes to kill you IS once." Don't ever fuck with mother nature or machines, you will always lose.

    If you are still using that furnace, please throw it out and remake it so my grandfather can stop rolling in his grave. Use one of these materials;

    Fine Kiln dried lapis sand

    Silica Sand 6lbs

    2200deg Rutland castable cement Fire Clay

    25lbs Rutland castable cement

    Kaowool Insulation Blanket

    Your best bet is to use silica sand but it's typically more expensive, however it will last the longest. The refractory is really where the durability is. I'd experiment with different types, you could even try adding in fiberglass reinforcement which may increase durability. Oh and here is a K-type thermometer. You can buy some thermocouple leads and figure out the math to accurately measure your burn temperatures so you don't over oxides your metals.

    And honestly, if it was me, I'd remove that video and remake it. Someone will watch that video, go out and buy cement and one day it will explode on them. That's an extremely dangerous way to make a furnace.

     

  • Electricity and water. You can easily make your videos a whole lot safer just by distancing your water source from the electrical components with something like this for your Dremel. Pretty much apply this methodology to anything that involves electricity and water. The farther your motor and 120v input is to the water source, the better. You can make a quick plexiglass cover to help seperate it, make an extension shaft so the cutting wheel is further distanced and always wear heavy duty, insulated rubber gloves.. Hell you could even make your own retrofit abrasive water cutter with simple motor and pulley system. Matthais Wandel has a great belt sander build that wouldn't be hard at all to make your own water/abrasive wheel setup.

    The way you set up that cuttoff wheel.... smh. Please don't do that. Also I'm sure you already read the comments but there are times when to wear gloves and when not to wear gloves. You need to use a vice or clamp any time you can if it means avoiding using gloves when using a high-speed cutter of any kind. Especially if it's a wheel. Again, it only takes once.

     

  • General safety. You should really read every single MSDS sheet you get on anything you buy retail or salvage. I've seen you light stuff on fire with zero respiration protection or use things that should have been done on a downdraft table or you were wearing improper clothing. Some of the stuff you work with can really fuck you up and you blatantly did not know of it's harmfulness or willfully disregarded it.

     

    Overall man I like your videos but in my opinion of everyone DIY'er i watch on youtube, you are hands down the lease safe. I usually spot something you did wrong in every video you post. Whether you feel responsible for your viewers and what they do with the information you give them, is up to you. I just figured I'd give you some pragmatic advice from someone who does this stuff for a living. I actually did a few youtube videos about 6 years ago on my Channel over industrial level green sand. I'm planning on quitting my job within the next mont or two to start my own workshop/foundry/DIY/Youtube/website marketing thing from scratch. Let me know if you have any questions and I'll gladly answer them.

    Here's some random tips;


    Don't use pop can metal for anything structural. It's 3000's series aluminum and it's mades specifically to be malleable. Good rule of thumb for scrap metal is, if it came from something cheap, the metals cheap. The highest quality aluminum you can get for CASTING is automotive parts. Typically made from A356-T6, very good aluminum. I see a lot of guys metal down "Aircraft" or "Aerospace grade" aluminum for casting thinking it's going to be strong. It will not be, 6000 or 7000 series aluminum is all wrought/worked aluminum. It gets it's strength from massive presses that squeeze the metal into shape. Once you heat it up it looses all that strength.

    T6 heat treat is the most common treat process for aluminum. If you are making something structural, heat treatment will greatly increase it's strength. But you have to use the correct aluminum for or it can't be treated (Automotive parts/A356). The process is usually 8hrs at 800-1000F then either a quench/2hrs at 300F or age hardening. With that K type thermometer you can easily set up your furnace to heat treat. Also, most aluminum age hardens once poured, usually around 21 days.

    Please never wear shorts ever again when working with molten metal. It's not that it will burn your leg. It's that it will hit your leg, then fall into you shoe. Then you have a burning foot and a ladle of molten metal in your hand. I've done this with high top boots and jeans on. My father would fire my on the spot if he ever saw me pouring with shorts on. I saw a guy poure about 2lbs of aluminum into his boot once. 6 years later his still on disability. Please don't ever do it again.


    Random informational videos

    Metallugical nature of Aluminum and crystalizing structures

    Grain Structure of Metal

    Cold work vs Hot work metal. E.I. this is wrought metal like 3000, 6000 & 7000 series aluminum

    Cermaic Material for Furnace Insulation
u/Nicb903 · 1 pointr/DiWHY

I only have experience with concrete but this is a type of additive that might be suitable, also glass fibers will add strength or really anything that will help give it some structure and rigidity https://www.amazon.com/32-504-4-Inch-Nylon-Concrete-Fibers/dp/B000COCDCM/ref=pd_sim_469_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2H3PGMH6CYWM50GJFTM3

u/TheDreadGazeebo · 1 pointr/shutupandtakemymoney

according to my calculations, 1 oz of concrete is worth around 1 cent, making this around a 13000% markup.

u/JanCumin · 1 pointr/jewelrymaking

> Rockite

Amazing, thanks, you mean this one? https://www.amazon.com/Rockite-Cement-5-Lb/dp/B000E29L8Q/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Rockite&qid=1559060871&s=gateway&sr=8-3

thanks, looks like a great options in the US, but good lord its expensive in the UK, I'll have a look for an alternative here, really want white....