Best crafts, hobbies & home books according to redditors

We found 11,988 Reddit comments discussing the best crafts, hobbies & home books. We ranked the 4,482 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Subcategories:

Animal & pet care books
Antiques & collectibles books
Crafts & hobbies books
Gardening & landscape design books
Weddings books
Needlecrafts & textile crafts books
Sustainable living books
Home improvement & design books
Event planning books

Top Reddit comments about Crafts, Hobbies & Home:

u/JakeRidesAgain · 305 pointsr/mildlyinteresting

Actually, in most cases it isn't, but it is pasteurized. Sterilization would make the medium insanely contamination-ridden, due to the lack of competing microbes. Once mold starts growing, you've gotta toss the medium completely. While this is probably a nice hippy-dippy way to sell mushrooms, there's no way it's going to maintain healthy flushes for long with a "tame" culture like agaricus bisporus. It just can't compete with molds like trichoderma, which is possibly the most common mold on earth. That's not counting the possibly hundreds of people touching the growth medium, throwing their trash in it, discarding unwanted mushrooms into the pile, and the like.

I've read a lot about it (I was once an aspiring mushroom farmer) and I believe it has something to do with pressure+heat killing fungal spores, but leaving beneficial bacterial endospores intact. Essentially, the bacteria and other microbes take up real estate until the fungus shows up, and then it moves into their turf and consumes them as well.

The interesting thing is that in commerical mushroom grows, pasteurization temps are reached naturally due to the size of manure piles. The mass of the piles coupled with the immense activity of microbes within them raises the internal temperature to anywhere between 140f-170f.

Source: Paul Stamets, The Mushroom Cultivator and Growing Gourmet and Medicinal Mushrooms.

Edit
Here's some more places to find information about mushrooms, since I'm hardly an expert. I'm just a guy who reads a lot, essentially.

Books:

  • Growing Gourmet and Medicinal Mushrooms, Paul Stamets
  • The Mushroom Cultivator, Paul Stamets

    Those are the standard grow manuals, but if anyone has a suggestion for a more comprehensive or up-to-date manual, it'd be welcome. Mycelium Running is a great book if you're just looking for a fun read about mushrooms.

    Websites:

  • /r/mycology - The subreddit devoted to mushroom growing and identification. Probably more relevant info here if you're interested in growing mostly edibles.

  • Fungi Perfecti is good for equipment (I bought all my HEPA filters there, at the time they were the cheapest around). I think they have a YouTube channel too, and that's got some interesting stuff on it.

  • Shroomery.org is a moderately famous mushroom growing forum, with a bit of a bent more toward psychedelics. However, I found tons of great people and information in the edible mushroom forum, and I received a few commerical grade cultures from a very generous member. There can be a bit of a circlejerk surrounding some "celebrities" that post there, but take what they say with a grain of salt, and always fact check against your grow manual. If you see something that looks stupid, it probably is, unless it works. Edit: I don't think Reddit likes linking to the Shroomery, removed the formatting.

    Videos:

  • TED Talks: Paul Stamets - Six Ways Mushrooms Can Save The World - This is basically his "standard" speech he gives when he does talks. There have probably been additions and improvements to it, but the message hasn't really changed. This is "Mycelium Running" in about 5 minutes. Watch this to decide whether you want to read that book.

  • Let's Grow Mushrooms! by Roger Rabbit - One of the aforementioned Shroomery celebrities. His videos are helpful, but make sure to fact check why you're doing stuff, because he tends to leave a lot of that out. This is very nuts and bolts demonstrations of how to prepare substrate, how to provide humidity at a low cost, and several different methods of growing for different species of mushrooms.
u/jamdrumsspace · 89 pointsr/Showerthoughts

Bingo. There's a whole school of study and thought around the concept of animals and plants which have taken the evolutionary route of being useful and harvestable to another species in order for themselves to thrive. I highly recommend The Botany of Desire by Michael Pollan, which explores how the apple, the tulip, marijuana, and the potato have all evolved to serve a specific human desire. Good stuff. Personally, I'm fond of chickens. There are more than 20 billion chickens on Earth at any given time simply because they're delicious and relatively easy to raise for harvest. It's a great strategy, chickens aren't going extinct any time soon. In a way, they're gaming the system.

u/Priapulid · 63 pointsr/WTF

I wouldn't hold my breath or assume that it is a "fact". Judging from the negative reviews on Amazon the book is full of bad science and unfounded speculations.

Never read it, probably never will.

Some remarks:

>In fact, he merely collects a few observations, speculations and his own personal circumperambulations of, about and around a plant and tosses them into the hopper. His chapter on marijuana was so incoherant I began to think it was deliberate - an exemplar of marijuana's effect.

and another

>What is unfortunate about this book is that it has and will be read by many people who have not been exposed to much science writing and, even worse, think that what Pollen is writing about is well-reasoned and insightful. It is neither. Dates and facts are routinely confused and the grasp of theology is as weak as science. If one is interested in evolution, Stephen Jay Gould is a good place to start; for natural history, Diane Ackerman is a great writer who also knows how to do her research.

Source

Obviously just peoples' opinions but I would take the broomstick-dildo connection with a grain of salt.

u/dave9199 · 54 pointsr/preppers

If you move the decimal over. This is about 1,000 in books...

(If I had to pick a few for 100 bucks: encyclopedia of country living, survival medicine, wilderness medicine, ball preservation, art of fermentation, a few mushroom and foraging books.)


Medical:

Where there is no doctor

Where there is no dentist

Emergency War Surgery

The survival medicine handbook

Auerbach’s Wilderness Medicine

Special Operations Medical Handbook

Food Production

Mini Farming

encyclopedia of country living

square foot gardening

Seed Saving

Storey’s Raising Rabbits

Meat Rabbits

Aquaponics Gardening: Step By Step

Storey’s Chicken Book

Storey Dairy Goat

Storey Meat Goat

Storey Ducks

Storey’s Bees

Beekeepers Bible

bio-integrated farm

soil and water engineering

Organic Mushroom Farming and Mycoremediation

Food Preservation and Cooking

Steve Rinella’s Large Game Processing

Steve Rinella’s Small Game

Ball Home Preservation

Charcuterie

Root Cellaring

Art of Natural Cheesemaking

Mastering Artesian Cheese Making

American Farmstead Cheesemaking

Joe Beef: Surviving Apocalypse

Wild Fermentation

Art of Fermentation

Nose to Tail

Artisan Sourdough

Designing Great Beers

The Joy of Home Distilling

Foraging

Southeast Foraging

Boletes

Mushrooms of Carolinas

Mushrooms of Southeastern United States

Mushrooms of the Gulf Coast


Tech

farm and workshop Welding

ultimate guide: plumbing

ultimate guide: wiring

ultimate guide: home repair

off grid solar

Woodworking

Timberframe Construction

Basic Lathework

How to Run A Lathe

Backyard Foundry

Sand Casting

Practical Casting

The Complete Metalsmith

Gears and Cutting Gears

Hardening Tempering and Heat Treatment

Machinery’s Handbook

How to Diagnose and Fix Everything Electronic

Electronics For Inventors

Basic Science


Chemistry

Organic Chem

Understanding Basic Chemistry Through Problem Solving

Ham Radio

AARL Antenna Book

General Class Manual

Tech Class Manual


MISC

Ray Mears Essential Bushcraft

Contact!

Nuclear War Survival Skills

The Knowledge: How to rebuild civilization in the aftermath of a cataclysm

u/KestrelLowing · 45 pointsr/aww

I would start with finding some local basic obedience or puppy classes. These are a fantastic place to start for a new dog owner. PetSmart and Petco classes are ok, but honestly their trainers aren't terribly experienced and while you could get a gem, you could also get a trainer than knows nothing.

Instead, try to find a trainer that is positive reinforcement based (sometimes trainers will advertise as "positive based" or "least adversive" or many other things - basically, instead of always punishing the dog, they're rewarding the dog for doing good things which is a much better system of dog training) and take some classes from them.

From that, you can get into dog sport classes. I personally, because of my location, actually do a lot of dog training classes online. Particularly through Fenzi Dog Sports Academy. They do have some disc dog classes occasionally, but also they have agility, nosework, obedience, and many other classes as well.

But certainly start with a basic obedience class as that will be a great foundation. If you need help with figuring out if a trainer might be good, try coming over to /r/dogs and asking there.

Oh, and if you're up for it, a fantastic book that I would recommend is "The Other End of the Leash" which is great in teaching people how dogs think and learn.

u/tubergibbosum · 42 pointsr/Portland

Two general types of experience you can get: hands-on, and book learning.

The former is very important, but not too difficult to do. A fair number of people in the Portland area go mushroom hunting occasionally, even if they only know a species of two. Sucking up to the right people is surprisingly effective. Also, getting in touch with or joining organizations like Oregon Mycological Society or the Cascade Mycological Society can be immensely helpful in making contacts and finding hunting partners/mentors.

The latter is also very important, as there is some much you can learn without actually holding a mushroom in your hands. For books, accessible guides like Mushrooms of the Pacific Northwest and All That the Rain promises and More are great for getting started, and heftier books like Mushrooms Demystified are good for those looking to take the next step in learning. Online, the hunting and identification board on The Shroomery, Mushroom Observer, and /r/mycology are great places to lurk and just soak in info, while sites like Mushroom Expert are good places to explore and follow what interests you.

u/designgoddess · 41 pointsr/Dogtraining

He should feed her. If he feels safe, he should hand feed her. Also have him talk in a higher pitched voice. Softly. She's 80 pounds of muscle, but to her he's pretty big himself. He might be more intimidating than either of you think. She might have been treated roughly by a man in her previous life. The hike is a great idea. If he feels safe he should sit or lay on the floor to watch TV. He shouldn't stand over her, he should approach from an arc. The link below is a good book. It helps explain how dogs communicate with each other. How they reassure each other. Maybe he can use some of these methods to let her know that he poses no threat. I felt silly, but after I found my fearful boys I'd give them play bows when I got down on the ground with them. Let her approach him? So it's on her terms. If he's still feeling unsure I'd recommend a behaviorist who can help read her and give you a plan for how to work through this. I found with my boys that I was asking too much from them too quickly. They needed things to be slower. Good luck.

https://www.amazon.com/Talking-Terms-Dogs-Calming-Signals/dp/1929242360

u/librarychick77 · 39 pointsr/Dogtraining

This might be a novel, so I'm going to address pieces at a time.

> We removed it and she put up a small fuss but we discouraged it once and everything was fine.

What do you mean 'discouraged' it? Any sort of punishment or negative reaction on your part will make her behavior worse - not better. I'd strongly suggest getting this booklet on resource guarding so you know what you're really dealing with.

> I reached for the chocolate and of course she guards it. She's growling at my and refusing to let go. Baring teeth. Whale eye. The whole slew of warning signs telling me to back off. Obviously this is a drastic situation, so I unfortunately have to ignore these warnings.

I'm going to disagree with you here - your next actions led directly to the nip. There are other ways to handle this, and you need to be better prepared for next time.

  1. teach a solid drop and reinforce the crap out out of it. 1, 2

  2. teach a solid leave it so you can prevent this in the future. 1, 2, 3.

    Work both of those until they're muscle memory for the dog - as soon as you say the word her mouth pops open no matter what's in it.

  3. Have an emergency backup. This is the big deal for if you're already in the situation and you need to get something back. This requires some prep, but can also work 'in the moment' if you give it the right tone.

    A few times a week suddenly hollar "TREAT TIME!!!!" and run to the kitchen, where you stuff 5-7 chunks of hot dog at your dog one at a time - 'machine gun' treats, one right after another. Next time she's got something you don't think she'll 'drop' instead of reaching into her mouth you can hollar "TREAT TIME!" and she'll run with you (away from the person who likely dropped the thing, handily) to the fridge where you stuff her full of things - because she can't both guard whatever she has AND get the treats.

    If it happens again before you have it really solid just send your SO to the fridge to get something yummy - at this point you are NOT worried about if it's healthy, you're worried about 'will she want it more than whatever she has'. Then when she drops the thing you lead her away from it with said treats and someone else retrieves the item when she's out of visual range.

    > I open her mouth with both hands and she growls one last time and nips me, but as she does it I snatch my hand and the chocolate away from her.

    Your dog has phenomenal bite inhibition. She could have given you a really bad bite, but didn't. Remember that. You literally took an amazing thing out of her mouth and she barely nipped you. Remember that.

    This is not the dog who 'suddenly' and 'out of no where' gives a deep bite. That is a wonderful thing. Listen to her warnings, and respect them and she won't escalate.

    > Her previous foster and I came to an agreement that if I decide to adopt her (which I'm still interested in doing) that my adoption fee wouldn't go to the organization, but rather a behavioralist/trainer to work out some of the guarding tendencies.

    I have to say - that is fantastic. Serious kudos to this rescue group for making this offer. The only hesitation I have is what their trainer is like. Hopefully the trainer is force free and will use scientifically based positive methods to help address WHY the dog is fearful, rather than trying to 'dominate' her into submission - which will not work, but will very likely make her much worse.

    Remember that guarding aggression is fear based - fear that someone will take her things away. If you feed into that by taking her things away it will get worse, if you teach her that giving you things is GREAT then it will improve.

    > Should I have taken the time to try and distract her from the chocolate she was consuming?

    Honestly, that's a judgement call. If you knew you were going to take her to the vet anyways based on what she had consumed...given it was chocolate I wouldn't have fought over it as they were going to pump her stomach one way or another. A bit more wouldn't have changed that.

    It really depends on what she has and how much training you put in.

    > Did I do the right thing by just taking the initiative to get it out of her mouth?

    My personal choice would have been not to risk it - however, I regularly deal with other people's dogs, and my #1 priority is to make sure I do everything I can to keep their dog from getting a bite history. In the moment, it's a hard call to make.

    > If the dog gives warnings like this one do I have to currently worry about escalation?

    That depends. If you work with her on a solid drop/leave, if you practice that emergency situation response I have above, and if you respect her warnings as much as you possibly can...no. On the other hand, if you 'discourage' her from taking or guarding, punish her, routinely take things from her forcibly...yes, definitely.

    The ball is in your court.

    > Also, should I worry about the bite getting infected?

    Probably not. You washed it and are keeping an eye on it, and it was barely a nick. Consider it a paper cut. Is it possible it gets infected? Yes, because your skin was broken it is technically possible. Is it likely if you have a normal and healthy immune system? Nope.
u/h83r · 34 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

Identifying Wood: Accurate Results With Simple Tools https://www.amazon.com/dp/0942391047/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_A6FHzbQB5PTDJ

u/Taricha_torosa · 31 pointsr/mycology

A friend took me when I was a bright-eyed and bushy-tailed college kid. I took our findings to a mycologist on campus who spent 20 minutes describing proper browning-in-butter protocol. I was hooked- both on mushrooming and the goofy people involved. I already collect field identification books, so I have a shelf in my bookcase just for mushroom ID and foraging. Every time i go out i try to ID a new mushie. Anything im super lost on i take to a mycologist friend in town, or i email the prof at OSU (which is 30 minutes drive) and bug them with it.

I also have permits for personal collection of mushrooms in all the local national forests (most were free) and researched the county and state park rules for collection on their property. Gotta be responsible, yo.

I recommend picking up All That Rain Promises and More (link) and the unabridged Mushrooms Demystified link2 because i reference both a TON, The first one is waterproof, and David is a certified goofball.

u/redchai · 27 pointsr/puppy101

I took a quick look through your previous posts. Many of these instances you're describing sound like resource guarding, or sleep startle reflex (sometimes called sleep aggression, but it's a reflex, not true aggression), or times when your dog is fearful/in pain. Of course, we can't witness these behaviours firsthand, so it's hard to say anything definitive - but I'm concerned that you may be interpreting any instance of snapping as aggression, when that's not accurate. In this post, for example, you describe three very different, but not aggressive behaviours. One is fear-driven, one is excitement-driven, and one is resource guarding.

Even normal, well-socialized, neurologically sound dogs will snap at someone in the right situation. It can be frightening and upsetting, absolutely, but it's important to remember that this is simply another way dogs communicate. I think sometimes people assume that the norm, or a "good" dog, is one that would never, ever snap at you, but I've never met such a dog. Most normal dogs will have a threshold, whether that's pain, or fear, where they will snap. It's normal. As is puppies using their mouths too roughly. My poodle was well into his teens before he finally stopped nipping when overstimulated - it hurt, it was frustrating, but it passed. He also snapped at me when we first started treating his ear infections, and he's snapped at me, and at the vet, when he's been examined while in pain. It happens.

A few times in your post history, I noticed moments where it seems like you misinterpreted her body language. You mention a wagging tail as a sign of friendliness, which is unfortunately a very bad way to judge how approachable a dog is. Dogs wag their tail for many reasons - sometimes as a warning. I highly recommend this brief book on canine body language - it might help you pick up on signs you're missing that could explain why your girl escalates to snapping.

Again, without seeing this behaviour firsthand, it's impossible to say whether there is something unusual going on here, but from your post history, I'm not convinced that the behaviour you're describing is outside the range of normal.

u/HayZues1 · 25 pointsr/DIY

Great work!

I put in several similar beds last spring as well. I've been gardening for nearly a decade now, but this is my first year doing raised beds using Mel Bartholomew's Square Foot method. I plan to dabble in some permaculture techniques eventually.

I can't say enough about the Square foot gardening if you want to maximize the yield in smaller spaces. I grew 8 tomatoes using the described method--1 plant per square foot--and several others using my previous method of "let 'em bush out like mad".

For larger indeterminate tomatoes, I'll never go back to the bush growing ways. The bush method works best for determinate and small tomatoes like cherries or grapes. For the square foot method the idea is to build an 8ft tall trellis and train them vertically. Pinch all suckers off once or twice weekly, which results in a single vertical stem/vine per plant rather than a giant tomato bush.

You'll get less yield per plant, but considerably higher yield per square foot of space. Tomatoes grown this way ripen quickly, and entire sets of fruit ripen together. The fruit is more uniform and less likely to be damaged by pests, and it's dramatically easier to harvest. It takes a bit more management to keep them pruned and trained, but it's well worth it come harvest time. I can't suggest it enough.

The square foot method isn't as great for some other veggies, however. Brassicae (cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, brussels sprouts, etc) need way more than 1 sq foot per plant. Want to grow squash or melon? Better dedicate an entire bed to it. I was shocked at how well it works for tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, cucumbers, salad greens, herbs, etc though.

u/Serial_Buttdialer · 24 pointsr/dogs

Your training methods are the kind that causes aggression like this, not removes it.

You need to stop thinking of yourself as the "alpha" today and instead recognise that resource guarding comes from a place of insecurity and fear, not "dominance" or wilfulness. You don't specify how you 'correct behaviour', but any training techniques using the outdated debunked alpha theory are likely to be highly over the top, frightening and in no way a solution to the problem.

In addition, reaching into the middle of any dog fight is a recipe for a bite. In the moment, neither dog knows that a hand reaching in isn't another immediate threat and so they will react accordingly.

Here are some books to help you with the resource guarding and understanding life from your dog's perspective, not from pseudo-science's:

u/amildlyclevercomment · 23 pointsr/IdiotsFightingThings

He needed this.

u/ruat_caelum · 23 pointsr/preppers

I'd going to answer in two posts here, this one will link stuff to websites or amazon for physical books. The other will be more discussion based. (e.g. this is just a raw data dump.)

I have used some google foo and I'm willing to post links, note that many of these will overlap (that is they have the same free PDFs or HTML pages etc.) Others are a bit further out there, e.g. magnetic pole reversal etc.

You get the point though people compiled whatever they though the world might need after aliens, the clintons took your guns, or trump and putin nuke everybody, global warming, plague, etc. Since it takes a massive amount of work to put these together and most people are not dedicated enough to do so, they all have the flavor of whatever the person building them thought was most important.

Here is a list, use from it what you can. Including in the list are things like RACHEL, hardware hotspot for wifi that any computer can connect to, like a library box or pirate box. Many of these resources are focused on and in use in 3^rd world nations. things like the one laptop per child might be a perfect resource to allow some technology designed cheaply but ruggedly to have to access this stuff.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CD3WD

https://worldpossible.org/rachel

http://librarybox.us/

http://one.laptop.org/

http://www.appropedia.org/Welcome_to_Appropedia

http://www.fastonline.org/CD3WD_40/CD3WD/INDEX.HTM

cd3wd torrent magnet link. 2012 version

dropbox link for torrent files for the above if the magnet or trackers aren't working.

http://oer2go.org/

Pole shift library magnet link

Need 55 gigs of wikipedia offline? get it at this link

http://www.cs.amedd.army.mil/borden/Portlet.aspx?ID=cb88853d-5b33-4b3f-968c-2cd95f7b7809

http://hesperian.org/books-and-resources/

https://modernsurvivalonline.com/survival-database-downloads/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0061992860

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0452295831

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1570618402

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1933392452

https://graywolfsurvival.com/3083/documents-need-bugout-bag/

https://www.opensourceecology.org/gvcs/

u/hapaxx_legomenon · 20 pointsr/Pomeranians

It really doesn't sound like this is going to be a good environment to raise a healthy, well behaved dog. I think you guys need to put the hard brakes on this decision and reevaluate your choice here...but I somehow doubt your family is going to say no to a puppy so...

Leaving it alone all day will almost certainly create behavioral issues (chewing, self harm, destruction, barking, anxiety, aggression, etc). That's not a nice life for a dog, especially a puppy by itself. I leave my dog 6-8 hours, but he's grown and I know he can handle it thanks to the looong walks we take before and after work, and all the other work I've put into training him and steps I take to prevent separation anxiety. People have to go to work, but look into daycare or at the very least crate training to help. Try to get the family to re-prioritize getting home sooner to let the dog out.

>they're kinda crazy and very yappy / bark a lot.

A dog's behavior is 80% a direct reflection of the owner. Although this can be complicated when the dog has been adopted by various people. Sometimes the current owner is dealing with someone else's mistakes.

If dogs could be BRED to BEHAVE then there would be a lot more "naturally well-behaved" dogs. Breed and other genetic factors can play a part in your dog's personality, but early exposure and training will always be the PRIMARY determining factors of how your dog behaves.

Small dogs and big dogs have the same brains. People try to act like they're almost separate species in order to excuse their bad training. You will see more yappy little dogs because people let them get away with it. A german shepard that angrily barks and lunges at anyone passing by is not going to be around for long.

Dogs are a lot of work, especially the first year of training. You will get what you give with a dog. The dog's energy level matters, this is the 20% inherent personality that you have to shape and influence with your 80% training. Regardless of breed, you can find a low-energy, high-tolerance puppy in most litters...but it sounds like you picked a random pup, so it's luck of the draw for you. Might be the high-energy, reactive pup of the litter, or something in between.

Training a pom can be hard because they are cute and tiny and it's easy to let them get away with very bad behaviors that you would never tolerate from a big dog. I found it helped to always imagine that my tiny fuzz ball would one day be growing up to be a Samoyed. Would I let a Samoyed puppy jump and bark and bite, knowing that behavior would soon becoming from a 100lb dog? No way! So same for a tiny pom.

I read all of Cesar Milan's books, and also Monks of New Skete. There are also some good youtube channels to check out. At the very least watch the "what to do before/the day you bring home a puppy" vids, so you get the crucial first step right! Zach George channel and perhaps most helpful; "are you ready for a dog?"

Cesar is pretty strict with dogs, more about obedience/dominance
The Monks are middle ground
Zach is very positive reinforcement/treats
So check them all out a bit and see what style will realistically work for you and your family (could even do various approaches from different people).

Honestly it seems to me like it's almost the norm for people to impulse buy/adopt dogs, be very lazy about training, and leave them home 8-12 hours a day. You're not doing anything outlandish. However the consequences of these decisions remain. The fact that you clearly care about what happens with this dog should go a long way. All it takes is someone stopping for a minute to consider the dog's needs, rather than only the humans' needs, and you'll be on your way. Feel free to ask questions or PM me.

edit: other random pom-specific advice!
http://www.petpom.com/ -- this website has a lot of info you need! Buying their PDF is worthwhile.

Don't cut or shave the fur, esp in the first year, or the coat will be ruined.

Little dogs need lots of exercise too, multiple daily walks for their mental health. They are tiny so the walks can be sort.

Poms can be quite fragile so be careful. #1 cause of death in poms is being dropped. Be wary of letting strangers hold your dog.

Poms are subject to low blood sugar and seizures, so make sure as a baby it eats often.
Dogs are never too young to be trained. Start from day 1. The first few months are mainly about establishing a relationship and communication though.

Dog health insurance is a good idea, there's a comparison website online for plans in your area

Good dog food is a long term investment for the health of your dog. Cheap food = expensive health problems. You can also google the best brands of foods. I usually go for Acana or Wellness. Human food can also give them the same health problems so avoid it as much as possible!

u/kt-bug17 · 18 pointsr/AmItheAsshole

YTA for being a bad dog owner by encouraging a dangerous behavior in your dog.

This behavior from the dog isn’t cute. It isn’t funny. It is a VERY concerning behavioral issue called “resource guarding” which can easily lead to a bite and euthanasia of the dog for aggression if left untreated.


Resource guarding is when a dog aggressively “protects” something of value (usually food or toys) from another dog or a person; occasionally a dog will resource guard their owner against other dogs and people. This behavior may be with just your sister for now but it could easily spread towards your dog aggressing at other people when they approach you. Those sorts of situations are when a dog is highly likely to bite.

> So he jumped off and proceeded to lay under my feet as if to guard me. My toes rubbing the back of his head. My sister comes near and he growls at her with his teeth bared.

> I laughed a happy laugh as she backed up and proceeded to talk shit about it and almost leave him at our house. I rubbed his butt whilst lecturing him.

You are reinforcing his dangerous behavior by petting him after he is aggressive towards a person.

You may be “lecturing” him but seeing as HE DOESN’T SPEAK ENGLISH your words are doing nothing. All he understands is “when I aggressively guard OP from Sister good things (pets and happy noises) happen to me! I should keep doing it to get more good things!” Your reaction to his aggressive behavior is actively making the problem worse.

You and your sister need to train the dog not to resource guard ASAP for her own safety. Here is a great dog training blog post The book Mine! A Practical Guide to Resource Guarding in Dogs is a good resource to use. It mainly covers food and toy aggression, but the same training methods can be used for when dog is resource guarding a person. on the subject. /r/Dogtraining and /r/reactivedogs are also good subreddits for dog training.

Train your dog before something bad happens and the dog ends up suffering the consequences.

u/devonclaire · 17 pointsr/Dogtraining

I highly encourage you to read The Other End of The Leash by animal behaviorist Patricia McConnell, PhD.

The book addresses this subject. The TL;DR version of her answer to your question is that while dogs form hierarchies amongst themselves, there is absolutely no evidence to suggest that dogs see humans as part of a "pack." They do not consider us a part of their social hierarchy — they only see other dogs that way.

The book really reinforced my belief in positive reinforcement training. I think you should read it.

u/Rude_Buddha_ · 17 pointsr/DIY

All New Square Foot Gardening II: The Revolutionary Way to Grow More in Less Space https://www.amazon.com/dp/1591865484/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yZ8LBbKQCG5AP

u/UrungusAmongUs · 16 pointsr/funny

Botany of Desire is a great book. In addition to potatoes, you also get apples, marijuana, and tulips.

u/OmegaCenti · 16 pointsr/videos

Hey! one of my times to shine! inaccesible places to tie knots is something people have been perfecting for 100's of years! One of the great ways to to pull out a vehicle is with an axle hitch or in this video. However, what the video doesn't show you is all you need is to get a loop around the axle (can be done with a pole with a hook on it),pull the loop back towards dry land, and the magic part is you can tie all the parts of the knot away from the hazardous area (e.g. the slushy water/ice with the car buried in it).

The logs in this video are being used to keep the pulley contraption from simply pulling the car into the ice and essentially breaking the ice further.

edit: Going to page /u/Dunyvaig so he can take a look at these possibilities as well

Source: I've been a fan of knots for a significant portion of my life, and one of my favorite books of all time would be The Ashley Book of Knots

u/Fubardessert · 16 pointsr/pics

Here is a good start

u/Mbwapuppy · 16 pointsr/dogs

You’ve gotten some very bad advice here, which you should ignore. Forget about being “alpha of the pack.” And do not flip your dog over on her back and say “no.” Those approaches are going to make things worse. You'll mess up your dog and mess up your relationship with her.

The common dog-jargon term for the behavior you’re describing is “resource guarding.” The best book on the subject is Jean Donaldson’s Mine! You should buy it or get it from your library (or via interlibrary loan). Also check out this blog post by Patricia McConnell.

u/ker95 · 16 pointsr/preppers

Have an accepted offer on 50+ acres of land (future home site). About 50% cleared for eventual pasture, 50% wooded. Lots of wildlife in the area, dirt is better than most of the area and plenty of pond sites available.

Ordered 'The Encyclopedia of Country Living, 40th Anniversary Edition: The Original Manual for Living off the Land & Doing It Yourself' when it dropped about $10 on Amazon. Reviews make it sound like a must-have book for our next adventure.

u/JonesinforJonesey · 13 pointsr/dogs

If you want to true and utter control you should get a Chia Pet. You can find them here; https://chia.com/ .

​

  1. Puppies and adult dogs don't like to be alone, they want to be with you. They follow you around.
  2. Puppies and dogs, like people, like to know what's going on in their surroundings. It's an inborn survival trait.
  3. That's also why they try to lead when walking. Puppies and adult dogs see the world through their nose, it's how they get and process information about their surroundings.
  4. Your puppy is not trying to control you, he/she already knows you are in charge. Puppies and adult dogs behave in ways designed to get the things they need from you. They need food, they need love, they need stimulation (walks/play/exercise). Stop trying to 'control' your pet and instead 'teach' them to use the behaviours that you like by rewarding those behaviours with good things, i.e.: treats, play with a favourite toy etc.. Ignore the behaviours you dislike, i.e.: bringing him back to his place without comment, turning away when he jumps up on you etc.. You and your pet will both be happier. Please don't buy into any dog whispering bullshit, you'd be better off buying a book like this; https://www.amazon.ca/Talking-Terms-Dogs-Calming-Signals/dp/1929242360/ref=asc_df_1929242360/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292939055252&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8123898998845343117&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000855&hvtargid=pla-426747736299&psc=1 and learning how to communicate with your pet.

    ​
u/purebishop · 13 pointsr/PlantedTank
u/[deleted] · 13 pointsr/homestead

Sounds like you have some fantastic goals to get you going. A lot of others here have offered great advice too.

If you are in the U.S. I'll happily share some heirloom seeds that I have extras of to assist with planning your garden for Spring. If that interests you, please PM me and let me know what gardening zone you are in. I have lots of seeds to share that are suited for many climate zones.

Some general suggestions I have that you might consider include-

  • Plan the construction of a smoke house for meat preservation.

  • Start studying seed saving. If you choose to use heirloom seeds for your gardens, winter is a great time to read up on how to harvest seeds for future gardening endeavors. Here are a few resources-

  • Start experimenting with canning, fermenting, jam/ jelly, winemaking (if you drink), and other various methods of food preserving.

  • Make a list of your hobbies. What things do you love to do? What crafts to you make? Is there a way that you could create part time work from these things on your list?

  • Begin spending time at local farmers markets (if you don't already). If farmers markets are seasonal where you are, start mapping them out. IMO local farmers markets are such an amazing hub of community, information, advice and so much more. When you involve yourself with other locals in your area doing similar things, amazing connections can be made.

  • Get to know your local County Agricultural Extension Office. Every state in the U.S. has at least one. They offer so many amazing free resources and many classes. Almost all have Master Gardeners programs, offer soil testing, have demonstration gardens, sell seeds bred for your locality, offer plant pest ID, printed information and more.
u/legitimatemustard · 12 pointsr/Survival

The most useful knot is the one best suited to the task you are trying to accomplish. The strongest knot depends on what type of load you are dealing with. Check out The Ashley Book of Knots. I got this book just after Basic Training, and used to practice knots while on fireguard or CQ.

u/ejchristian86 · 12 pointsr/knitting

I would recommend a book or 2 in addition to YouTube. When learning a new knitting technique, I find it really helpful to look at still images or illustrations first, then watch a video to see it in action.

OP, I learned how to knit though a combination of Debbie Stoller's Stitch n Bitch and knittinghelp.com.

It's definitely possible. Just break it down into manageable chunks and do small swatches as you learn. I was knitting simple scarves the first week and moving on to hats and other things within a month. Soon you'll be making cabled sweaters and fancy blankets and all sorts of crazy knits!

Edit to add: Whatever you do, don't knit your first project with Lion Brand Homespun. For some reason, a lot of new knitters (myself included) reach for that yarn for early projects and it just never works properly. Use a simple soft acrylic or wool-blend. Red Heart Soft is a decent choice and quite affordable.

u/worstchristmasever · 12 pointsr/spiders

Yes, tarantulas are very easy to care for. They are the most low maintenance pet that I know of.

As far as where to buy them...

Local pet stores are actually one of the worst places to buy them if you're concerned about ethical treatment or the quality of living at all. The staff generally has no idea how to properly care for a tarantula, the specimens are often mislabeled, the prices are way too high ($150 vs $15, literally), the selection is usually pretty bad, and they will almost always give you misinformation about that specimen and usually all tarantulas.

The best place to buy a tarantula, as a beginner, is either from an exotic pet shop that has at least 50 specimens or from a hobbyist (you can save money this way).

In the case of tarantulas "docile" generally means "boring". Tarantulas certainly don't have the capacity for any kind of socializing or domestication. They are entirely for observation, just like fish. (Keeping that in mind, I recommend you forget about ever handling them because it's not worth the risk. I'll go into that more if you want.)

As far as the particular species... Yes, it's widely claimed that the G. rosea is the ultimate starter tarantula because of its so-called docile nature and ease of care. However, it is also the most commonly available and likely the least expensive. But that doesn't make it a good starter! There are many disadvantages to this being your first tarantula...

  1. They are VERY inactive for most of the time. Sometimes going months without moving more than an inch, and certainly not showing interest in food.

  2. They grow slowly. If you are interested in watching it grow quickly, forget this one. They are well below average in terms of molt frequency and growth and they can take months of "pre-molt" before they will finally go through with it.

  3. They don't eat a lot (See 1 and 2). I don't know about you, but to most people, feeding a tarantula is the most exciting part of ownership and generally the most activity you get to witness. A low appetite makes for a boring tarantula, in other words.

  4. They are just plain boring to look at. Dull, brown and average sized...

  5. You might not care about this, but the G. rosea population in Chile has been nearly wiped out due to export of this species.

    If you want a recommendation on something else, I will happily give you some ideas.

    Above all, before you make ANY purchase, you MUST buy and read a copy of The Tarantula Keeper's Guide. You will save yourself a lot of trial and error and I assure you that you will not find a more thorough and comprehensive source of published information on tarantula keeping.
u/SunRaven01 · 12 pointsr/dogs

Your fuck-up happened with "assert dominance."

Buy this: https://www.amazon.com/Mine-Practical-Guide-Resource-Guarding/dp/0970562942

You can't bully a dog out of resource guarding, and you certainly shouldn't be trying to bully a newly adopted dog.

u/Vepr762X54R · 12 pointsr/collapse
u/Underclock · 11 pointsr/tarantulas

Don't get a sponge. It's a breeding ground for bacteria, and the tarantula can't actually get water from it. They do fine with standing water, I see mine (I'm up to 25 now) drink from their dishes frequently.

Also, the B. albopilosum doesn't need a premade lair. In my experience, they're pretty good at digging out their own

I actually posted this info yesterday, so I'm just going to paste the relevant section right here:

Let's talk equipment:
Get the tarantula keeper's guide and read through it, before you get your spider preferably. It's going to be your bible for the first few months.
Tarantulas don't really have a lot of care requirements, and their equipment list is pretty short. An appropirately sized kritter keeper is usually fine. Not the best, but fine. You'll want a small bowl for standing water so it can keep itself hydrated if it needs to. You'll want some finely shredded coco fiber as a substrate. Finally, you'll defenitely need some 12 inch tongs for feeding.

Feel free to ask any more questions, glad to have you in the hobby!

u/abnormal_human · 11 pointsr/woodworking

This bench is a poor choice for hand tools--it more of a workbench for a homeowner who needs to organize maintenance supplies, or someone who primarily uses power tools

For hand tools, really want something more traditional. Something that weighs at least 300lbs. Something with tree-trunks for legs that won't rack or walk all over the room when you put some oomph behind a jointer plane. Something that doesn't have a bunch of crud hanging above your head that will fall on you when you are putting your muscle into something.

This DVD from Mike Siemsen walks you through how to build a workbench for very, very limited money--$150-175 is feasible. It's an English design that doesn't require vises for work holding.

This video series from Paul Sellers walks you through building a reasonable workbench with a very limited set of hand tools and inexpensive materials. This is also an under-$200 bench.

This book, and also this one by Chris Schwarz represent a deep dive into workbench design. The books include plans for ten or so different benches, all of which are excellent for hand tool work. I built my bench based on plans in the second book. Schwarz also has a blog which, if you go through past years, contains hundreds of posts on workbench design.

Workbenches don't have to be expensive. You can use 2x8s or 2x10s from the home center and limited tools to build them. The first two benches I linked come in at under $200. Schwarz's have a bit more of a range. In general, if you chose inexpensive lumber and hardware, your bench shouldn't cost more than a few hundred bucks.

One last thing: if you're doing it by hand, use a softwood. One of the stiffer/harder/heavier ones like Douglas-Fir or Southern Yellow Pine. Avoid the mystery SPF/whitewood. Not saying you can't make a hardwood bench completely by hand, but it's a lot more sweat, time, and money, and the bench doesn't really work any better once it's done.

u/jammerzee · 10 pointsr/dogs

To be honest, if she has started killing your chickens you are unlikely to be able to train her out of it. Your options are probably to either keep her separated from the chickens (assuming she doesn't become obsessed by watching them) or rehome her, as others have suggested.

There are a set of behaviours involved in the hunting instincts of dogs:

orient > eye > stalk > chase > grab-bite > kill-bite > dissect

SOME dogs have been carefully bred to keep only certain components of the chain of behaviour. E.g. border collies will orient > eye > stalk > and to some extent chase.

Your dog obviously has an instinct that includes chase > grab-bite > kill-bite > dissect, and was not introduced to chickens early enough to overcome this instinct. This is very deep seated in the dog and it would be very unfair to try to train it out of her (and pretty miserable for you).

If you want a flock guardian, you have again get a dog with exactly the right parentage and habituate the dog at under 8 weeks to the specific species (chickens) it will guard.

http://www.canismajor.com/dog/instinct.html

>I guess my question is when can she really fully learn things?

Dogs learn from birth what is 'normal' and safe vs unsafe. The sights, sounds, people, other animals, environments it encounters in its early weeks are essential to its understanding of the world. But it depends what you mean by 'things'. Some things must be learned very early or it's super hard to learn them (much like it's WAY easier for humans to learn a language while they're a baby, when it happens instinctively - learning languages after that age involves huge mental effort. ) Things which involve more complex behaviours, impulse control, or a certain amount of experience confidence (e.g. long sit and stay, or a formal heeling routine) require a fully developed brain (adulthood, 2-3yrs) a good experience of how to learn, and time to build up the foundation skills.

>I know that stock dogs and duck dogs both go to school no younger than 6mos, but service dogs are started basically from birth.

Just like babies, dogs learn many things which become a core part of their personality and outlook long before they go to preschool. You can train basic behaviours and even more complicated things like a retrieve at the age of 8-10 weeks.

There are great tips here on how to train dogs:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Dogtraining/wiki/index

Gently showing them the behaviour you want, making it super easy at first and gradually making it more challenging - and rewarding with food and play (not just praise) is essential.

To learn more about how dogs think and learn, this is an excellent read.
The Other End of the Leash: Why We Do What We Do Around Dogs by Patricia B. McConnell
http://www.amazon.com/The-Other-End-Leash-Around/dp/034544678X/ref=wl_it_dp_v_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=EB90Z6TWT7WO&coliid=I3328FEAF7EDB9

u/xblackdog · 10 pointsr/spiderbro

Seconding this, also maybe pickup "The Tarantula Keeper's Guide" by the Schultz. I've found it to be a pretty useful book, and it's only $12 if you have prime on Amazon.

u/Philo_T_Farnsworth · 10 pointsr/offbeat

This book has been passed around as a meme for a while due to the absurd title and cover photo. Typically with the caption "Yep, it's wood".

u/radalicious123 · 10 pointsr/Dogtraining

It's not judgment, it's pointing out that you need to take responsibility for what happened. It wasn't "unfortunate". It was your own serious fuckup when you let your toddler anywhere in reach of a KNOWN resource guarding dog while the dog had a bone. Now your kiddo has paid the price. Hopefully you will step up, and it will be the last time one way or another.

Yes there are ways to work on this with the dog. Here is one: https://www.amazon.com/Mine-Practical-Guide-Resource-Guarding/dp/0970562942 Your idea of hiring a behaviorist is good too, especially if that guide doesn't make sense or seems too complex.

In the meantime you can't let this situation happen again - follow /u/shiplesp advice.

u/pencilears · 9 pointsr/NoStupidQuestions

say you're an idiot and you want a dog.

you want a dog that proves you are a tough cool guy and you're poor from spending all your money on BMX bikes, so you accept a gift puppy from your idiot neighbor who won't spay his bitch. (problem one: too many pitbull-mix puppies are produced by idiots who won't spay their dogs)

you are happy with your dig because the dog is a pit-bull, this confirms your self image as a tough guy with a tough dog. luckily for you the dog is a male, but you won't get him neutered because having an intact and therefore manly dog chained up in your yard makes you feel like your house is better protected. (problem two: idiots also don't neuter their male dogs)

so you chain or lock your dog up in the front yard and provide minimal care after he stops being cute, you give the dog an idiot name like "Cujo" to further reinforce that you only own this dog because it reinforces your own self image as a tough guy who totally does not have a micro-penis. (this is also why this sort of moron drives a giant truck)

so the dog is untrained, malnourished, and living in filth. because you are an idiot it is also in the front yard. before your dog can bite somebody, due to your idiot negligence, somebody scoops in and takes the dog to the pound.

now we have an unadoptable pit-bull mix. and because this situation is fairly common, we now have a lot of similar looking unadoptable dogs all together in the same pound. whenever a dog that doesn't fit this bill comes in, it is adopted faster than one of the hoard of pit-mixes just for looking more adoptable, meaning that they continue to be a bigger percentage of the total in-custody dog population.

TLDR: because idiots want a dog that will make them look tough, and idiots are terrible dog owners.

a rescued pit mix can be a perfectly nice dog, a purebred golden retriever bought from a reputable breeder and raised from a puppy can be a total crazy-pants.

it all depends on the owner.

u/red-cloud · 9 pointsr/TrueReddit

> The Botany of Desire

The book is pretty good, too. ;)

u/helleraine · 9 pointsr/Dogtraining

There is not short fix for this. Unfortunately. You'll need to understand thresholds and your dog really well to make your life immensely less stressful. Further resources below.

Resources:

u/ellimist · 9 pointsr/spiders

> Can they climb glass? If so, I'd think they'd get hurt if they fell from near the top - could I fill the tank with substrate up to the point it would be safe for the spider?

Yes they can; ground spiders are more susceptible to falls. That will be A LOT of substrate. If you get an arboreal spider, it will be less of an issue.
> Also, what are the best types for a beginner? I've hear the chilean rose mentioned, and I had a friend in high school with a mexican redknee that was really really docile.

Those are good, ground spiders, but there's also A. avicularia - pink toe, which is a good docile spider.

> I live in North Idaho, so I'll have to get a tank heater. Would a pad be best? I can't imagine a spider liking a heat lamp - wouldn't it want to hide all the time? Also, besides crickets bought at a pet store, a very shallow water dish, and something for the spider to hide under, what else might I need?

Heat lamps are bad - too dry. Spot heated pad is good, but make sure there are non-heated parts so they can escape. Also, cricket food and water, and long forceps or tongs - crickets are obnoxious and tricky.

Get a spray bottle, coconut husk substrate, water dish, and I personally like a temperature and humidity sensor (analog dial ones - pretty cheap).

Also, pick up The Tarantula Keeper's Guide.

Good luck! Here's my setup.

u/squidboots · 9 pointsr/witchcraft

Seconding u/theUnmutual6's recommendations, in addition to u/BlueSmoke95's suggestion to check out Ann Moura's work. I would like to recommend Ellen Dugan's Natural Witchery and her related domestic witchery books. Ellen is a certified Master Gardener and incorporates plants into much of her work.

Some of my favorite plant books!

Plant Science:

u/SmoothOperator89 · 9 pointsr/funny
u/Barkbringer · 9 pointsr/puppy101

Watch Simpawtico's video on bite inhibition. It is VERY helpful and that is training you want to start with right away. I prefer Simpawtico and Kikopup to Zak George. They are much more thorough regarding the reasons why you are doing what you're doing and the time/steps involved. Zak George's videos are at least 20% dog food ads.


  1. Stock up your house with lots of people food and supplies before the puppy comes home so you can take care of yourself too.
  2. Read the wiki here.
  3. Read this.
  4. Be patient with the puppy, and easy on yourself. You will be very, very tired and it can make everything feel much more difficult than it may actually be.
u/happybadger · 9 pointsr/shroomers

Ever since I read this book with my vegetable garden in mind, I've been really curious about putting a fungal species in both that and my cannabis/hemp tent to create a mycorrhizic relationship. Especially with a plant like cannabis where you're constantly fertilising it, it intuitively seems like it would boost nutrient uptake over the more or less sterile way I'd otherwise grow it indoors. Neither PF cakes nor grain spawn managed to take in the garden this year though. I think my next step is using the spent 50/50 from a monotub, maybe with additional straw on the surface, as a compost mixed in to the smart pots.

How do you do yours? Do you take it all the way to flowering in the monotub or transfer it?

u/berticus · 9 pointsr/gardening

Actually, you should put the seeds in water for few days to ferment them. This removes a coating that inhibits germination, supposedly. Then continue as above.

Pole beans you should just be able to save. Make sure you're not planting hybrids of either plant, or your saved seed will give you unpredictable results.

This book is often recommended. I read it and it was helpful, and will be a really good reference for when I can actually start doing it. There are other factors to consider, such as cross pollination and such, and they're all covered here for each and every plant you could possibly want to grow.

Also... I read Breed Your Own Vegetable Varieties and was fascinated. She touches on seed saving, and of course gets into cross pollination (on purpose this time!) and genetics and such. It was really exciting to read, in a total geek sort of way.

u/DreamingOfFlying · 8 pointsr/Dogtraining

Without seeing her, it's hard to say if it's just nipping due to wanting to play, or actual aggression. If it's actual aggression--this is extremely concerning. It's far from normal for a 4 month puppy to be biting due to aggression and it would be best for you to get professional help ASAP. It's the type of thing that needs to get nipped in the bud now. A puppy this young showing aggression usually means the puppy is going to grow up with extreme aggression issues, and no one wants a dog that is going to attack people or other dogs.

If it's nipping due to play, you just need better management and you need to find a trainer that can show you what to do. Dogs will learn what they are allowed to do. If you let her jump on you, she will learn to jump on you. If you let her chew on the furniture, she will learn to chew on the furniture. You have to stop her before she even starts. Usually that means crate training, never leaving her unsupervised, or using tethers and baby gates to keep her confined.

Do not use the kennel as a punishment for bad behavior--it's not meant to be a place for time out. That's why shes running from it. Feed her her meals and throw cookies in it instead to get her to go in.

Have you taken her to any training classes? What breed is she? She sounds like she could be bored too. Dogs will also start biting and becoming destructive if they are bored.

go to /r/puppy101

You want the first book here AND at least one of the ones below it.

Find a professional trainer.

read these books

https://www.amazon.com/Other-End-Leash-What-Around/dp/034544678X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493118755&sr=8-1&keywords=the+other+end+of+the+leash

https://www.amazon.com/Puppy-Primer-Patricia-B-McConnell/dp/1891767135/ref=pd_sim_14_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=1891767135&pd_rd_r=7N0P07Z9RS4ZMC1V66HN&pd_rd_w=xNvL7&pd_rd_wg=SBke8&psc=1&refRID=7N0P07Z9RS4ZMC1V66HN

https://www.amazon.com/How-Behave-Your-Dog-Behaves/dp/0793806445/ref=pd_sim_14_17?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=0793806445&pd_rd_r=3KP15JN1XZES6G1V3P2X&pd_rd_w=Q4t6t&pd_rd_wg=l6l7o&psc=1&refRID=3KP15JN1XZES6G1V3P2X

https://www.amazon.com/Perfect-Puppy-Days-Start-Right/dp/0964151871/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1493118982&sr=1-1&keywords=perfect+puppy

u/caffeinatedlackey · 8 pointsr/Dogtraining

Dominance/alpha/pack leader training has been thoroughly debunked. Anyone claiming that you need to dominate your dog (including that scam artist Cesar Millan) is practicing outdated and potentially harmful methods. You can read this article for more information on that.

I would recommend reading books by Sophia Yin and Patricia McConnell. They are force-free and reputable dog trainers.

u/Cannibeans · 8 pointsr/AskHistorians

Feel free to check my sources. I'm not a historian, I just communicate the information I've been made aware of.

  1. Chang, K. The Archaeology of Ancient China. Yale University Press. (1963)
  2. Li, H. The Origin and Use of Cannabis in Eastern Asia Linguistic-Cultural Implications. Economic Botany. (1974)
  3. Li, H. An Archaeological and Historical Account of Cannabis in China. Economic Botany. (1974)
  4. Rubin, VD. Cannabis and Culture. Campus Verlag. (1975)
  5. Pollan, M. The Botany of Desire: A Plant’s Eye View of the World. New York: Random House. (2001)
  6. Ratsch, C. The Sacred Plants of our Ancestors. Tyr: Myth - Culture - Tradition. (2003)
  7. Booth, M. Cannabis: A History. Thomas Dunne Books. (2004)
  8. Russo, EB. Mechoulam, R. Cannabis in India: ancient lore and modern medicine. Cannabinoids as Therapeutics. (2006)
  9. Russo, EB. History of cannabis and its preparations in saga, science, and sobriquet. Chemistry and Biodiversity. (2007)
  10. Clarke, RC. Traditional Cannabis cultivation in Darchula District, Nepal: seed, resin and textiles. Journal of Industrial Hemp. (2007)
  11. Gray, AW. Rasmussen, WD. Fussell, GE. Mellanby, K. Nair, K. Ordish, G Crawford, GW. Heilig, S. Shiri, R. Origins of Agriculture. Encyclopedia Britannica. (2015)
  12. Staelens, S. The Bhang Lassi Is How Hindus Drink Themselves High for Shiva. Vice. (2017)
  13. Long, T. Cannabis in Eurasia: origin of human use and Bronze Age trans-continental connections. Vegetation History and Archaeobotany. (2017)
u/motku · 8 pointsr/Denver

Ethical Concern: The GMO corn is trademarked by <insert well known chemical company here> and the seed is sold to farmers who invest in it. Corn propagates by wind, neighbor farmer did not buy in but now his seed stock is infiltrated and the trademark owners sue him for stealing seed stock or some other violation of copyright. Local farmer caves to relentless legal pressure, soon all food stock is owned by corporations. This could get really wild (The Windup Girl), but so far that's still sci-fi, right?

Environmental Concern: Most GMO crops are created by chemical companies who in turn make products effective on plants that were not created by them. Rather than taking time to work with the environment these companies amass petrochemical sprays (a further economical cost to the farmer as well) and bombard regions so their plant survives. This chemical mixture goes into the soil and water where it in turn effects us; you do know that ALL drinking water is recycled I hope.


So you might be right, there might not be concerns on the healthy diet level (though we all know how wonderful the American diet is for us all). But there are larger socioeconomic issues here as well. To lock this only on a healthy for diet issue is absurd. I highly recommend Botany of Desire (book or PBS) as the potato chapter is enlightening on this measure (from an economic standpoint). Basically; organic food is far more economic in terms of space, maintenance, and profit per square foot.

u/alecbgreen · 8 pointsr/todayilearned

If anyone wants to read a good account of the tulip craze, read Michael Pollan's "Botany of Desire." It looks at 4 plants as 4 examples of how humans have interacted with plants throughout history for various reasons: tulips for beauty, potatoes for storage, marijuana for changing consciousness, and apples for breeding new varieties. Its a fun read!

PBS has it online for free: http://video.pbs.org/video/1283872815/

The book is here: http://www.amazon.com/The-Botany-Desire-Plants-Eye-World/dp/0375760393

u/DanMorgan405 · 8 pointsr/tarantulas

This set up is perfect for right now. They despise humidity but the moss is fine, don't worry about a water bowl right now, maybe after the next moult you can used a soda lid or something.
Here's a breakdown for when it reaches 2"- 3" or more.

Enclosure: This is probably still fine. They are terrestrial and need more ground space then height. This becomes very important the larger she is because a fall could kill her. The substrate should be no more then 2.5 the DLS (diagonal leg span)from the top of the enclosure but it isn't super important right now. An adult will be fine in a 5 gallon aquarium with a nice lid, mine is in a 10 gallon topfin.

These guys natural environment fluctuates from about 50f to 85f it will be comfortable if you are. DO NOT USE A HEATING PAD OR HEAT LAMP MOST TARANTULAS ARE SOMEWHAT PHOTOSENSITIVE AND THEY CAN BURN THEMSELVES WITHOUT KNOW VERY EASILY WITH A HEATING PAD.

Food: 1 cricket two times a week or 1 time a week until she grows. Her appetite will slow down, but 1 cricket a week at 3" is more then enough food. Mine is 3.5" DLS and I feed her every 2 weeks and she doesn't eat a lot even then. They are slow growers, and they can refuse to eat for months up to a year sometimes. As long as the abdomen is not shrinking she is healthy.

Water: Mine doesn't ever use her water dish. She fills it with dirt as soon as I fill it. They hate humidity. I still fill mine every time it's empty for an emergency situation (air conditioner breaks and house reaches 98 degrees). They get nearly all their water from there prey.

If you haven't already pick up a copy of Stan Shultz The Tarantula Keeper's Guide
Congrats man they are great T's!

u/Whisgo · 8 pointsr/puppy101

So first thing is first - any adversive methods such as a vibrating collar with a dog that has fear or anxiety is only going to backfire and promote more fear or anxiety. I would ditch that. You're potentially causing more behavior issues when it's used. Dog learns to hide fear rather than teaching the dog confidence.


So you have a dog that is likely reactive and fearful - and a lot of anxiety. So before we can get to work mode, we need to address the causes of the anxiety and get the dog back to neutral. So first thing, you might want to try doing a two week shut down with this dog. https://www.marshmallowfoundation.org/info/file?file=20866.pdf This is to remove all the stimuli that can keep causing stress levels to be high. Adrenaline - when it spikes up during a moment of fear or panic can take over 6 days for the hormone levels to return to normal. It's great that the dog is food motivated because that is going to make things like counter conditioning to specific things much easier... but right now - stress is so high, your dog cannot focus let alone retain the cues you're training. Dog is in fight or flight mode... So give the two week shut down an effort.


Meanwhile, you want to write down all the things this dog is reacting to... if it's potentially separation anxiety, check the links I provided below. Anything else, you're going to want to work on each thing separately using desensitization and counter conditioning. Again, we're trying to bring the fearful dog to a neutral place... work on building confidence and associating the list of stimuli with positive rewards. Any negative behaviors - redirect.... either remove the stimuli or remove the dog. Reinforce calm relaxed behaviors.


https://www.reddit.com/r/dogs/comments/48sglg/discussion_separation_anxiety/ has some great info that you may find useful.

Do take a glance over at /r/reactivedogs They have lots of helpful advice on how to manage some of these behaviors.


Some books that may help:
The Cautious Canine by Patricia McConnell

I’ll be Home soon by Patricia McConnell

Don’t Leave Me by Nicole Wilde


If after that two week shut down and working a bit you still feel a bit overwhelmed, it might be a good consideration to work with a certified animal behaviorist. https://avsab.org/resources/speakers-bureau/behavior-consultants-near-you/ and https://iaabc.org/consultants are great searches for one.

u/pair-o-dice_found · 8 pointsr/homestead
u/AutumnRustle · 8 pointsr/MushroomGrowers

Hey friend! That's kind of a big question with a lot of detail. All the information is out there, but it can be tricky to find. I think we can all empathize with you there.

Generally speaking, all the concepts are the same, it's only the equipment that changes. Essentially, all you're doing is the following, without any of the details:

 

  1. Get a small culture and expand it

  2. Wait a few days/weeks.

  3. Use the expanded culture to inoculate some spawn. Alternately you can just buy the spawn online and skip to step 5

  4. Wait around a few days/weeks for the spawn to colonize (if you didn't buy it online).

  5. Prepare some substrate (usually sawdust/wood chips that have been pasteurized, or sawdust/wood chips supplemented with a grain bran that has all been sterilized) and inoculate it with your spawn. You can usually source hardwood sawdust/wood chips for free on places like CraigsList. If not, you'll have to buy it in the form of mulch or pellets.

  6. More waiting

  7. Expose the colonized substrate to fruiting conditions

  8. More waiting

  9. Take pictures of your grow and pretend it was all easy

     

    I usually advocate for getting a pressure cooker and beginning with grains/jars; but you said you were on a tight budget, so I'll give you some beginner-tier options to get the above accomplished. The caveat here is that they're by no means the best or least-risky methods, but you asked for a cheap way forward that is still effective, so that's what I'll give you. It would be impossible for me to list out every detail, so just ask me questions and I'll fill in the rest one thing at a time:

     

    You could pasteurize prepared wood chip/sawdust mix (substrate) in a coffee can or plastic tub (with a lid) and buy pre-made spawn online. Spawn is ≈$10-25USD and comes as bags of grains or sawdust. You can find tubs all over the place for cheap. Then you just combine the two, wait for the substrate to colonize, and fruit from there (Steps 5-9).

    You could also buy a grocery store Hericium mushroom, chop it up into slices, spread that out over moist cardboard, and let that colonize. This is a little more risky with Hericium (v. Pleurotus, which is much more aggressive). After it finishes, you would add that cardboard spawn to some pasteurized wood chip/sawdust mix in layers, then wait for it to finish colonizing before fruiting it (Steps 3-9).

    Those are both cheap ways to start out, but don't skimp on the spawn.

    Depending on the tote you use, you might need to make a ShotGun Fruiting Chamber (SGFC), which is just a tote with holes in it on all 6 sides, with some perlite or grow stone at the bottom. It's as expensive as it is to buy a tote. You'll need to find a drill and bit to make the holes. I can run you through that, too.

     

    All of this is just a basic idea to point you in a direction given your low budget. It's slightly more risky, but cheap and easy. That's the tradeoff.

    If you're in college, you might have access to a biology lab and be able to use their equipment. Glass Petri dishes, bio-safety cabinet, autoclave, possible supply of agar, etc. Let me know if you do and I'll walk you though some more advanced techniques that also meet your budget. All you'd have to do is buy a few bags at ≈$1USD each and either some liquid culture (≈$10), or even a store-bought mushroom will do.

     

    That's a super rough, dirty version. People will probably yell at me, but that's ok. I can't type out a novel here, so just ask questions about what you don't understand and we'll go from there. If you need a source that takes you front to back, go to your college library and Inter-Library-Loan "Growing Gourmet and Medicinal Mushrooms" or "Organic Mushroom Farming and Mycoremediation: Simple to Advanced and Experimental Techniques for Indoor and Outdoor Cultivation".
u/spudseyes · 8 pointsr/gardening

That's him. And I've been informed it's 10 years since I set this garden up using his book.

www.amazon.com/All-Square-Foot-Gardening-Revolutionary/dp/1591865484/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1536030570&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=all+new+square+foot+gardening+2nd+edition&dpPl=1&dpID=61WJIemI

u/patiencemchonesty · 8 pointsr/worldnews

They wouldn't claim to be scientists, more like ecological engineers, but there are tons of writeups. They write a lot of books; there are a lot of "test sites" around the world.

Gaia's Garden: A Guide to Home Scale Permaculture --> most accessible guide for the layperson
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1603580298/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=1603580298&linkCode=as2&tag=postapocaly06-20&linkId=PARY4RJKHWLQYGER

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0908228015/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=0908228015&linkCode=as2&tag=postapocaly06-20&linkId=NSVF65UXGPBESS3D --> Permaculture: A Designer's Manual, by Bill Mollison --> the textbook for the so-called "permaculture design course"

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Permaculture

Some famous demonstration sites:

Zaytuna Farm, Australia - http://permaculturenews.org/2012/06/01/zaytuna-farm-video-tour-apr-may-2012-ten-years-of-revolutionary-design/

Bealtaine Cottage, British Isles - http://bealtainecottage.com/before-permaculture/

Agroforestry UK - https://www.agroforestry.co.uk/

It's quite a rabbit hole! Good luck exploring!!

u/Boogita · 8 pointsr/dogs

> I say possibly good news because Ive read ALOT that companion animals definitley help with Separation Anxiety dogs.

This is only true for a very small percent of SA dogs. It might mask some of the outward signs, but it is by no means a cure for SA. Further, if your dog is uncomfortable with the other dogs, I highly doubt that it would help. And even if it does seem to mask some of this dog's symptoms, what if your roommates decide to take their dogs on a walk/vacation/to the vet, and your dog needs to be left alone? He still has SA.

As far as "success stories," we've been working on desensitizing my dog to being home alone for 6 months. We're currently at 35 min max time home alone. This doesn't sound like success story unless you've lived it, but it's a pretty typical trajectory for separation anxiety treatment. I think our success story is really that I haven't gone completely insane yet...Our dog goes to daycare daily while we work, and it's not cheap. His SA has put a huge damper on my social life, we take the dog with us everywhere, and he spends a lot of time in the car.

I'm not saying that you should or shouldn't get this dog, but I would definitely think about whether or not you have the time, patience, sanity, and finances needed to help a dog with SA. If you do adopt, or even prior to adoption, I would immediately pick up a copy of Treating Separation Anxiety in Dogs, I'll Be Home Soon, and Don't leave me!

Reactivity is its own beast, and u/ASleepandAForgetting tackled that issue well in their (edited to remove gender, I apologize!) comment.

u/Devlik · 7 pointsr/dogs
  • Culture Clash
  • The Other End of the leash
  • Execl-Erated Learning
  • Don't Shoot the Dog
  • The Thinking Dog: Crossover clicker training

    All of the above in that order. The first two are on dogs in general and how to work with them with out being a dick. The other three are serious books on dog training theory. The last one especially is amazing and well worth a read once you get the other concepts down.

    One other book I would highly recommend to read

  • Be the pack leader

    The reason I recommend it once you get in to dog training you are going to her a lot pro and against Caesar Milan. And it is far better to be informed so you can speak competently about it. Honestly I don't think he is the great satan he is made out to be. People need to exercise their dogs more and take an active role in training them. More people need to preach this message. Its mostly the flooding and dominance theory that I personally to find to be bunk.

    Read it and read it after you have read the above books so you can be prepared to talk with those that have him as their one and only dog training resource. Don't be a douche with them and put up your nose and shout them down but help try to steer them to other resources instead.

    So now you have read books and watched DVDs what now?

    Practice! How do you practice? Damn good question. If you have your own dog start there and then find yourself a local rescue or shelter in need and in most metro areas there are.

    Volunteer to work with shelter dogs this has many advantages.

  • There is no shortage of dogs that need help
  • You will be working with dogs at their worst and most stressed
  • You will get a lot of experience with several kinds of dogs (small, big, hyper, calm, kennel stressed, flat out crazy, shy, confident)
  • These dogs need the most help and you will be quietly literally for some of them saving their lives by making them more adoptable and staving off kennel stress

    NOTE: My own personal bias. Clicker training is godlike. I am getting faster and better results than I ever did with yank and crank or even with lure and reward! I also do all my dog work pro bono with local shelters and rescues.

    Example: Teaching a dog to walk at heel in under 45 minutes, with it being solid after only 4 training sessions, completely off lead by 6. Even with my best lure and reward this took months.

    TLDR: Read up, get some skills, practice on crazy dogs in shelters, come back to us and ask again after you get a few thousand hours under your belt.
u/je_taime · 7 pointsr/dogs

One that should be on your reading list if you haven't read it already: Patricia McConnell's The Other End of the Leash.

I think Decoding Your Dog may be pretty useful, too.

u/GiordanaBruno · 7 pointsr/botany

This book was extremely entertaining.

The Botany of Desire

u/gheissenberger · 7 pointsr/casualknitting

Everyone should own a copy of "Stitch n Bitch!"
amazon link

u/bicycle_dreams · 7 pointsr/knitting
u/jackruby1123 · 7 pointsr/natureismetal

They don't. That guy is talking out of his asshole.

Meet your new bible:

https://www.amazon.com/Tarantula-Keepers-Guide-Comprehensive-Information/dp/0764138855

u/Jurisfiction · 7 pointsr/tarantulas

Some good reading material: Spiders, Calgary Web site, especially:

u/Luzer606 · 7 pointsr/mildlyinteresting

They are interesting and tarantulas live a long time(2 years to 20+) and once you know how to keep them its easy and not much work so they are interesting to pets to watch when you want but don't require a lot of time and need no direct interaction at all. Fill water dishes once a week and feed every week or two. The cheapest way to get specimens is to buy spiderlings(slings) and raise them. Slings are about the size of your pinky fingernail and will grow to have leg spans of 3" to 9" depending on species. I just like spiders.

This is considered the "Bible" for keeping tarantulas as pets: Tarantula Keepers Guide . The only book you "need" .

The most popular forum would be http://arachnoboards.com/

u/nyxin · 7 pointsr/tarantulas

In case nobody has mentioned this already, please change out Boris' substrate from wood chips to either Shredded Coconut Husk (Ecoearth, Cococoir, etc.), untreated soil (no pesticides, herbicides, or additives), or some mixture of both as soon as possible. Wood chips can be sharp and potentially harmful if your tarantula decides to climb, which it will, and fall. Furthermore, certain woods such as cedar (but potentially others!) are known to be toxic to tarantulas. For a hide, be sure to use cork bark (known not to be harmful to tarantulas) because it has antifungal properties that will help keep your tarantula healthy and safe.

The tank also looks to be a bit large, however this can be mitigated by adding several inches of substrate (mentioned above) to provide a lower ceiling for your spider to fall from, a cushion should a fall occur, and plenty of dirt to push around should your tarantula want to burrow. Decorations are fine, just be sure to keep them away from where your tarantula could fall on it and potentially harm itself.

Here is a webpage that has just about everything you could want to know about your species of tarantula. Also this book, The Tarantula Keepers Guide (written by the same person who wrote the article) is one of the best and easiest to understand books you can buy to learn about how to care for most tarantulas.

u/ellipsoptera · 7 pointsr/tarantulas

Stay away from the desert sand. Soil-type substrate is best for the whole enclosure. Most people use cocofiber.

30x30x30 is a bit big, but if you go with something that size, just be sure to fill it with substrate enough to reduce the height considerably (over half). You don't want a terrestrial tarantula falling more than a few inches.

A lot of people use decorative items for hides, so the skull is probably fine unless it has sharp bits.

Changing the hide and the sound from your stereo are probably minimal stressors. It likely won't impact the lifespan of the spider, but if it gets bald quickly after moving in, it may be time to move the spider (or the stereo). At 3-4 inches, this spider will probably only molt once a year, so it won't outgrow an appropriately sized hide quickly.

At 3-4 inches you should be able to tell the sex of the spider. If the shop doesn't have sex labeled, you should ask about it and/or take some photos of the underside of the spider if possible. We may be able to sex it for you from a photo (although the most reliable way is with a shed exoskeleton).

Definitely pick up The Tarantula Keeper's Guide if you haven't already. It's a solid resource and one you will turn to time and time again.

Edit: added link

u/ErrantWhimsy · 7 pointsr/Awwducational

Sneezing is a dog behavior that I believe is in the same family as a calming signal. There are tons of them, including yawning, lip licking, and slow blinking.

Basically, they convey "Hey, things are all good here, we're just playing, no need to get aggressive." It can be when a dog is nervous, or just overly excited and playful.

If you want to learn more, check out On Talking Terms with Dogs.

u/onandonandonandon · 7 pointsr/hockey
u/manatee1010 · 7 pointsr/Dogtraining

This!!

OP, your puppy is in a critical period for socialization that will close around 16 weeks. Strategic socialization now will help ensure he grows up into a well-adjusted adult. Check out this socialization checklist for ideas.

The first page of the checklist has a scale to help you grade how he responds to each stimulus, so you can determine what you might need to work on more. Don't forget things like the vacuum cleaner, umbrellas, shopping carts, strollers, different walking surfaces (hardwood, carpet, linoleum, concrete, grass, pavement, gravel), people of all ethnicities/ages, and people using canes/wheelchairs. Also be sure to take him lots of new places to have positive experiences in a variety of environments.

I highly recommend this book by Dr. Sophia Yin for helping map out your training plan. :)

p.s. you can't put a post like this up without paying a puppy tax! we want pictures! :D

u/dagger_guacamole · 7 pointsr/puppy101

My FAVORITE books - that literally saved us and that every single piece of advice I could offer would come from - are Perfect Puppy in 7 Days and Before and After Getting Your Puppy. Both books are highly recommended here and we had AMAZING success following the protocols outlined (they compliment each other well). The only regret I have is not following them longer and slacking off.

u/AutoModerator · 7 pointsr/puppy101

Hello, we see you may be posting about Resource Guarding. This is when dogs vocalize (growling, barking), or use more physical means (biting, air snaps, lunging and so forth) to convince us or other dogs to stay far away from their valuable resource. The resource could be a mere piece of kibble, a bully stick or chew, a chair, a piece of trash, a bed, a toy, a person, or any object the dog deems of high value. All dogs may guard to an extent, since they innately do not know how to share. They view all resources mentally as "Mine, mine and only mine!". Resource Guarding is a rather common behavior that dog owners face to one extent or another. We wanted to supply you with some wonderful resources on this topic, but be aware that management and proactive learning will be needed.
Patricia McConnell Other End of the Leash blog, Resource Guarding: Treatment and Prevention
Whole Dog Journal, Key term search Resource Guarding
Mine!: A Practical Guide to Resource Guarding by Jean Donaldson
Should the issue stay the same or worsen despite your best attempts, please do not hesitate to contact a professional, reputable, positive reinforcement trainer, or better yet, a board-certified Veterinary Behaviorist (US Directory here), you are absolutely not alone in dealing with resource guarding.

I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns.*

u/llieaay · 7 pointsr/Drugs

You can understand a dog just about as well as you can understand another person. Second thread this week where I have recommended On Talking Terms with Dogs: Calming Signals by Turid Ragaas

I guess the main thing though, is that we get love and affection from dogs (and traditionally and even sometimes still dogs do work for us) and dogs get love, food and protection from us.

u/BarryZZZ · 7 pointsr/shrooms

Cut a slab of agar out of a clean plate and cover that entirely with it. The mycelium knows which way is up and can easily emerge on top. The bacteria will remain trapped beneath. Source: Paul Stamets

u/Whereigohereiam · 7 pointsr/collapse

Glad to help. Now is a great time to get back into gardening and build up the soil where you live. You might want to consider throwing in some perennial edibles. And this book is a good read if you want a collapse-resistant garden. Good luck and have fun!

u/buymagicfish · 7 pointsr/Dogtraining

I also dealt with a dog with pretty bad separation anxiety. Here are the steps I took.

  1. Crate train! While it seems a bit mean to leave a dog in a crate all day, the alternative is your pet being destructive and potentially eating or chewing on something dangerous.

  2. Think about getting this book by Patricia B. McConnell on separation anxiety: http://amzn.com/1891767054 Really helped us and was pretty useful. Its more of a pamphlet and reads really fast.

  3. Obviously make comings and goings a calm non-event; that sort of thing is covered in the book. If crate training, make sure you aren't interacting with, looking at, or letting your dog out until she is calm.

  4. Try and keep the dog distracted for 10-15 minutes after you leave. We have 2 kongs which I keep in the freezer, filled with a few spoonfulls a mix of canned pumpkin, some peanut butter, and a bit of honey. Takes my dog about 15 minutes to work through and he gets one of the kongs every day when we leave for work. For the first few weeks, I'd have a webcam on him to check in on his progress, turns out if he was distracted with the kong, by the time he was finished, he'd still be pretty calm and just go to sleep (he sleeps all day until about 20-30 minutes before we normally get home).

    Between the crate training, kongs and the routine, we now have a very nicely behaved pup when we are out of the house. He remains very calm as we leave (he used to freak out and whine every day) and is far more relaxed when we get home.

    The key thing here is time and consistency. Best of luck!
u/nattoninja · 7 pointsr/Permaculture

There's an excellent book called Seed to Seed that goes into a lot of detail, put out by Seed Savers. This is my first year saving seeds from my garden, I found a lot of valuable information in it.

u/binkocd · 6 pointsr/aww

Apologies if I repeat things mentioned elsewhere. I'm looking at a sleeping, year old lab/border collie mix, so I still have a lot of this info fresh.

  • I can't recommend The Art of Raising a Puppy (https://smile.amazon.com/dp/0316083275/) enough. Lots of good information in there and a ton of things you don't think about.

  • Socialize the crap out of your puppy! People, dogs, puppies, kids, etc. Look for free and/or cheap puppy play times and go to them. Your pup needs to meet something like 50 to 200 other dogs in the first 16 weeks, might be way more.

  • Not specifically called out in socializing, but exposure to all kinds of things. As mentioned, kids, other dogs, walk near play grounds, loud traffic, crowds, airports, etc. Yes, you will have to deal with "Oh my god! Can I please let your puppy?" And you are within your right to say "I'm sorry, but no." Be polite, but stern. Make sure your puppy sees people in all sorts of outfits. Coats, hats, etc. You don't want your dog to be afraid of things that are normal* things.

  • Work on a meal/potty schedule! This will make sure accidents, which will happen, are less frequent. This is highly dependent on your schedule. Make sure you allow enough time for elimination after feeding.

  • Crate training is amazing. You can verify that your pup won't get into things when you can't watch them. It also gives your dog a place that they can go when they just want to chill out. My dog is in his teenager phase and goes to his to listen to loud music and play guitar... ;)

  • Finding a good trainer/class and sticking with it! We learned a lot from the 2x 6 week classes we took, and are actually looking to take some others. Click training is also nice.

  • Patience. Puppies are going to pup. Let them learn. You don't need to be a helicopter parent, which you likely will be the first couple off-leash park trips. Just walk away, take a deep breath, remember you're training your future best friend and companion.

    Love the crap out of your dog! You are looking at a year and change that will not only define your dog for the rest of their life, but will be the hardest part of raising a dog. I've wanted to ring his little neck more times than I care to mention, but goddamn I love this dog and I'm pretty sure he likes me.

    Sorry for the wall of text. I typically lurk, but having gone (still going) through this, it's good to take a second and think about what worked, and what didn't.

    Good luck and I wish you both the best!
u/ofimmsl · 6 pointsr/Dogtraining

I really think you should read this book https://www.amazon.com/Other-End-Leash-What-Around/dp/034544678X

I'm recommending it because you have a border collie and not just any old dog breed.

it isn't boring, it isn't a step by step training guide, it is an easy read like reading a long magazine article. it will teach you how to communicate on a deep and real level with your new dog. you are going to need to know this stuff because your smart dog is going to spend the next 15 years trying to understand what you are saying so that she can do it. she is going to be watching everything you do and trying to interpret it.

this is a breed that is going to be so hungry to understand you and the only thing that will upset her is if you dont make an effort to communicate with her outside of doing typical dog commands(sit, no, stay). she isn't going to be fighting against you. she wants to be your partner.


used copy is $2 including shipping on amazon. I'll show you how to get a free copy if you dont want to buy it.

u/roosterbush · 6 pointsr/Documentaries

Commenting to save but also to drop Dr. Patricia McConnell's name and recommend her books. They're 100% the best books I've ever read about communicating with and understanding dogs.

u/rajsaxena · 6 pointsr/trees

Pollan's Botany of Desire has an entire section devoted to the domestication of cannabis.

u/timetobehappy · 6 pointsr/reactivedogs

We have very similar dogs (mine's a chihmutt too, possibly chihminipin). We've had her for 7 months, and she's basically plateauing after the initial training we were able to give her for the reactivity. She also does really well at doggie daycare and adores/trusts all the attendants there. They say she's blossomed and come out of her shell and is more sociable with the other dogs too. She was found on the street, probably dumped with her leash and harness still on. She's also on clomicalm and previously dog prozac. Both of which have worked a little but nothing dramatically different.

Not sure what specific training you got, but here are the big things that made the most impact for us.

  • on walks, lots of counter conditioning along with 'look at me' (basically lots of high value treat dropping when seeing dogs and strangers). Her threshold used to be ~50 yards before going nuts but now she's a good 8-10 feet. It's so hard to see the progress you've made because the impact of their negative behavior can be so stressful. I feel you!
  • managed introductions: so not just letting new people come in the house without meeting them outside first (with high value treat dropping as soon as we meet strangers). She normally barks a little but as soon as doggy meatballs or people food drop she starts eating them. People are always instructed to ignore, ignore and ignore. We walk for a few minutes around the block and then when we get in the house she's much more calm. Still NO petting or staring/attention from friends in the house. Basically, she's treated like a cat, with attention only on her terms. While they're in the house, lots and lots of treats dropping every 30 seconds (nobody hand feeds either, just dropping snacks to the ground). She hates it when people put hands out for sniffing for whatever reason, so people don't do it either. It's really the most helpful for people to completely ignore her until she decides she wants to sniff or ask for attention. After ~20-30 min, she's usually begging for attention (they can't pick her up, but she finally asks for some scratches). This method has been absolutely, positively fantastic. We've had several couples over and a dinner party of 6 people. I'm guessing your dog never got to meet strangers either :(

    ​

    Books/podcasts/websites that I recommend:

  • On Talking Terms With Dogs: Calming Signals. I felt like this book opened my eyes to how dogs talk to each other. Now I can look at her, identify her body language and intent AND see what other dogs are thinking/feeling based on their body language. It's a simple, yet super helpful book.
  • Feisty Fido. Not sure why your trainer suggested a stroller, but that seems really strange. This book was excellent for managing our walks a bit better as well.
  • Youtube Channel: Kaelin Munkelwitz Trainer. She films her client visits so you can see what she's doing with the dog in real time.
  • Youtube Channel: Sophia Yin. (rip). She's well known in the training world and is so amazing with the dogs she trains on her channel.

    We struggle with her every day, just like you and I know exactly how you feel. There's no going back with her.

    At least your dog can be crated while you're gone. Ours has separation/isolation anxiety and is overly attached to my husband as well. So even when I'm here, she doesn't care so much because he's not. We've barely left our house because we haven't been able to find evening sitters :( We're almost $500/ month on doggie daycare so we can go do things during the day when I'm off of work. It's been a slow, uphill climb.

    Hang in there, you're an amazing dog parent and he's so lucky to have both of you!
u/ToxicPoison · 6 pointsr/sailing

Ashley Book of Knots Probably the best resource ever for any sort of knot and the situation they're used for. Check around in your used book stores, they can generally be found cheaper if you don't want to drop $50 on a book, but it's worth every penny in my opinion.

u/TarantulaFarmer · 6 pointsr/tarantulas

The Tarantula Keeper's Guide is probably the best book out there , especially to those new to the hobby.
http://www.amazon.com/The-Tarantula-Keepers-Guide-Comprehensive/dp/0764138855
Other good options are coco fiber , can't ever have too much extra substrate around , cork rounds as they are the best hides and can be a little pricey based on size. A new cage would always be nice too, critter keepers or small 5 gal aquariums work well. If they don't have one , a red led lamp can be nice for observing your t's at night

u/najjex · 6 pointsr/shrooms

Buy a regional guide. Here are a few if you are in the US. It's important to know the terminology that goes along with mushroom hunting.

Also Use the links in the sidebar here, they will tell you the active mushrooms in your area. Once you do this do individual research on each one.

Regional guides

Alaska

Common Interior Alaska Cryptogams

Western US

All The Rain Promises and More
Mushrooms of the Pacific Northwest

Mushrooms Demystified This is an old book, while still useful it definitely needs updating.

The New Savory Wild Mushroom Also dated but made for the PNW

Midwestern US

Mushrooms of the Midwest

Edible Wild Mushrooms of Illinois and Surrounding States

Mushrooms of the Upper Midwest

Southern US

Texas Mushrooms: A Field Guide

Mushrooms of the Southeastern United States

Eastern US

Mushrooms of West Virginia and the Central Appalachians

Mushrooms of Northeast North America (This was out of print for awhile but it's they're supposed to be reprinting so the price will be normal again)

Mushrooms of Northeastern North America

Macrofungi Associated with Oaks of Eastern North America(Macrofungi Associated with Oaks of Eastern North America)

Mushrooms of Cape Cod and the National Seashore

More specific guides

Psilocybin Mushrooms of the World

North American Boletes

Tricholomas of North America

Milk Mushrooms of North America

Waxcap Mushrooms of North America

Ascomycete of North America

Ascomycete in colour

Fungi of Switzerland: Vol. 1 Ascomycetes

PDFs

For Pholiotas

For Chlorophyllum

Websites that aren't in the sidebar

For Amanita

For coprinoids

For Ascos

MycoQuebec: they have a kickass app but it's In French

Messiah college this has a lot of weird species for polypores and other things

Cultivation

The Mushroom Cultivator: A Practical Guide to Growing Mushrooms at Home (If your home is a 50,000 sq ft warehouse)

Organic Mushroom Farming and Mycoremediation: Simple to Advanced and Experimental Techniques for Indoor and Outdoor Cultivation

Growing Gourmet and Medicinal Mushrooms

Mycology

The fifth kingdom beginner book, I would recommend this. It goes over fungal taxonomy Oomycota, Zygomycota and Eumycota. It also has ecology and fungi as food.

The kingdom fungi coffee table book it has general taxonomy of the kingdom but also very nice pictures.

Introduction to fungi Depends on your definition of beginner, this is bio and orgo heavy. Remember the fungi you see pop out of the ground (ascos and basidios) are only a tiny fraction of the kingdom.

u/Ghigs · 6 pointsr/interestingasfuck

I actually bought the book. Those are pores.

The book says of Balsa:
>Pores: Medium-large, distinct without lens, numerous to moderately few, solitary and in radial multiples of 2-3.

u/JaneGael · 6 pointsr/dogs

Congratulations on your new puppy, she's a cutie. You are gonna have a ball! It's practically impossible to totally screw up a puppy unless you are abusive. They all seem to survive our bumbling and inability to speak their language.

If you are new to dogs you don't yet understand that they have a language that you can learn. Please do yourself and your dog a favor and learn a bit of it with this inexpensive invaluable book. it will help you understand what your dog is trying to tell you.
http://www.amazon.com/On-Talking-Terms-With-Dogs/dp/1929242360

Here is her web site with some quick info:
http://www.canis.no/rugaas/onearticle.php?artid=1

Please please throw the Purina food away. If you google the ingredients you will see that it is worse than McDonalds. It contains animal byproducts which is from dead and dying animals as well as any bit of crap they can't put in human food. It also contains corn which dogs can't readily digest and many are allergic to.

Buy a good food made without wheat or corn and with meat as its top ingredient. Here is a link to food ratings. http://www.dogfoodadvisor.com/dog-food-reviews/dry/

You want to choose a 5 star food if you can afford it, or a 4 star. Look at the ingredients and remember that this is the ONLY food she will get, she can't go out and buy anything else. You have to feed her the best you can. Follow the directions on the bag for amounts for the dry food.

To give her the best nutrition mix in some good quality canned food or make up a nice chicken stew, with lots of chicken and vegetables like green beans, broccoli and cauliflower to put on top. She's a baby and good nutrition is important. Besides if you love her it makes you feel good to provide good healthy food and watch her bloom.

The bath for the fleas was good. She needs to see the vet right away and he or she can advise you on what to use for her. Vet care is important. Have her microchipped if you can because rural dogs can get lost.

The crate should be big enough so that she has a place to sleep at one end and a place to go potty. If you have a secure room you could put her in there as well. Be sure to give her toys that are soft and squeak and toys that she can chew on. Gently discourage her chewing on anything but her toys. Sometimes a dab of peanut butter on a toy can make it more interesting. Don't give her rawhide chews (avoid giving Greenies at all) when you aren't home though, as they can choke on them.

There are lots of resources on the net for housebreaking. Dogs don't like to potty in their own home so after a few fits and starts she will get the idea. It will be some time before she can hold it for 8-9 hours though. Keep an eye on her after meals and take her out. Watch her and when she goes be an absolute fool about praising her and talking baby talk and anything else she finds exciting. You want her to associate it with good things. :)

Have fun reading and learning. Keep reinforcement positive. If you fuss at her make it short and forgive her immediately. Dogs don't hold grudges, they scold one another and move on. Humans could learn a lot from them.

u/OzymandiasLP · 6 pointsr/samoyeds

Hi! Glad to hear you’ve been able to get a Sammy!!

As you’ve only had the dog for 3 days, this isn’t surprising at all!! It’s going to take weeks and even months of repetitive training to help your infant dog learn what you expect from them.

There’s a couple of different strategies for crate training and potty training your dog.

Your puppy is naturally a pack animal, and has just been separated from their pack, and so being alone at this stage can of course leave them upset. It’s going to be a slow process of acclimatising them to the crate, and spending time away from you.

Things that might help are making sure they’re exercised and played with well before giving them crate time. How often are they at home alone? Are you at home with them all day at the moment? How often did you get up to help them potty outside overnight? At this stage it’d be normal to expect to get up 1-2 times overnight to ensure they don’t have an accident.

Some helpful resources for you would be some of the Reddit threads in positive reinforcement based training, or some books or YouTube videos. As Sammy’s are so bright, they can be a handful initially, but do respond well to training, especially incentive based and positive reinforcement training, and a well trained Sammy is a friend for life!!

A useful book is Perfect Puppy in 7 Days Perfect Puppy in 7 Days: How to Start Your Puppy Off Right https://www.amazon.com/dp/0964151871/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CcnTAb1WQG7C4

You might find these YouTube videos useful: https://youtu.be/Y00iHQeTzdY
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL91WyqCpBlSVqbu_CghxAH_WvnkiybG3O

And a broader explanation on positive reinforcement puppy training: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL91WyqCpBlSWIn66BlXRN_gQy4hgHcqGv

u/palanski · 6 pointsr/Aquariums

There really is only one book that is considered the bible of the craft, as far as I can tell: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/0967377366 There's more than likely a copy of the book in your local library. In reality though, it's a wonderful read and something I like to go back to every few months as a refresher.

Otherwise, plenty of guides online that refer to these tank setups as 'dirt tanks'. http://www.plantedtank.net/ is an excellent resource. There's a million ways to set it up, but the idea is to get organic soil, free of any additives. The soil is then 'mineralized' (see one, two) put into the tank about 1-2" in depth. Lots of plants. Floating plants are important to outcompete algae too. Capped with gravel. The tank cycles incredibly fast because of the bacteria in the soil. I still waited a week before introducing fish, but that was about it. I don't have a recent pic of my tank, but you can get a feel for it with this video I recently took: http://youtu.be/CyeI08q8m2c

You can try this type of setup on a small scale to see how you like it. But it's really low maintenance and I haven't had the need to vacuum the gravel or do anything other than trim plants in the last year. No algal blooms, no disease. Plants love the soil substrate. Fish love the plants. It's a tiny healthy ecosystem.

u/jocamero · 6 pointsr/Dogtraining

From the wiki:

I'll Be Home Soon: How to Prevent and Treat Separation Anxiety by Patricia McConnell

Well worth the read IMO. You will quickly learn you need to take much smaller steps to ease the anxiety.

u/CallMeMrsSlender · 6 pointsr/puppy101

Here All of my dogs resource guard over different things. This book has been a lifesaver and I've made it to the point that things are manageable and rarely ever interfere with how we do things.

Aside from that just take a deep breath and try to relax. This a a common issue, you can and you will over come it. It's going to take some time but it's possible. You need to keep a level head, anything aside from being calm and patient will make things much harder on you both.

Edit: Sorry forgot to add, odds are he wasn't already feeling well since he vomited and with his guarding tendencies as you described, a simple touch was what pushed him over threshold so he growled/barked as a warning.

I mentioned it in a different thread but stress stacks in dogs. They don't just unwind and everything is magically a-okay like we can go get ice cream/ a bottle of wine or beer and we're good. A lot of little things can stack up for example (including some of the things you said plus things that probably didn't happen) unfamiliar things, a routine change, upset belly, loud noises, being very hungry, then being touched while eating all stacks up into one big pile of stress so he reacted more than he would have.

u/_Lucky_Devil · 6 pointsr/dogs

There's a bunch of anthropomorphizing going on here... but your dog is not having PTSD "flashbacks," your dog is resource guarding. Dogs can resource guard food (ie kibble, treats, bones), toys, objects, people, and places (ie favorite spot on the couch).

Here are some resources to help you work on this issue with Dita:

http://www.patriciamcconnell.com/theotherendoftheleash/resource-guarding-treatment-and-prevention

https://youtu.be/ALpvuFIoZxc

https://www.amazon.com/Mine-Practical-Guide-Resource-Guarding/dp/0970562942

u/SchwanzKafka · 6 pointsr/Dogtraining

> grab the hold of his collar and get him away from this, he starts biting

My comments are always unpopular when snarky, but not like I can help myself: This is a lot like complaining about randomly getting electrocuted while licking electrical outlets. If the rest of these 'random' occurrence are nearly as random, the aggression problem is once again mostly in the handler and only mild, conditioned fear aggression in the dog.

> I'm not an inexperienced dog owner

I hate to point this one out too, but unless you've been training working dogs, statistically you're more likely to be a bad pet owner than good. My worst, most horrifying experiences with people all include the phrase "I've had dogs all my life" or some variation thereof. Just because nothing has happened until now does not mean all your previous practices have been good - it just means dogs are incredibly safe.

The only truly 'random' bite I've ever witnessed was in a dog that turned out to have a sizable tumor. And that fucker bit proper. Fear bites being silent but very extensively signaled in other ways (often signaled to the owner for months/years!) is common and so are bites that connect noticeably but don't inflict real damage. A skin break is not real damage - if you don't have to knock the dog off, you were warned, not bit (caveat lector: The standard for acceptable signaling and being out in public is much more stringent [even whale-eye or taildroop is honestly way over the line, tailtuck and stiffness is straight up dangerzone], but when deciding what the dog is liable to do in a practical sense and how safe working with him or her is, I don't really sweat a minor skinbreak at all).

> The trainer tonight told us, that we should be playing tug o war with him with a toy at times.

Yes, your trainer is on the right track.

Now to start getting constructive:
canine body language

Read this or a few of the other sidebar resources on the issue. Before you can read your dog, you really have no idea what is going on where and which of your actions are super unpleasant to the dog. Once you've watched a bunch of youtube videos, watched your dog and other people's dogs (and become slightly uncomfortable realizing how much shit dogs take), then remember: The dog is always right. If the dog doesn't like something, no matter how pointless, then you can't muscle your way through if you want it to ever improve.

This is an important change in thinking from commonly anthropomorphizing the dog: You can and should empathize (using his body language as a guide), but you should avoid making inferences as to what a human would mean by that action. For example a dog that looks away when you give a cue/command might have learned that you're a bit unpredictable and harsh and just wants to avoid confrontation because he's not sure what you want anyway - even if in human body language that move is a strong 'go fuck yourself'.

After that, go here:
kikopup's channel

Watch that stuff, read up about operant conditioning. And start forgetting any punishment-stuff, including "no" or other negative markers. Its a bit of a slog to explain why, especially since those things work well in suppressing behavior in the short term - but trust me, even though it's a pain in the ass, crossing over to +R (which does include -P/-R but more in a technical than intentional sense) is very well worth it. The biggest hurdle is going to be your own skill and way of thinking - you need to form new habits, such as redirecting behavior and asking for conflicting ones, building complex behaviors in tiny steps and counter-conditioning fears.

Specific management advice:
NILIF for food and the freedom to be more than 6 feet from you. Get an umbilical leash and a harness if you must. No reaching things to investigate until you can call off from them.

Tie outs and -P punishments such as social isolation are awful even if it's not obvious how. Only leave the dog alone when you absolutely have to and work up to the ability to be left alone in small steps (read all the separation anxiety training stuff, any method works). You are better off managing the house and the dog to be indoors than him just "having a yard". A yard without you, especially the same fucking yard over and over, is completely meaningless. If you're transitioning to an inside-dog, you're going to get a fair bit of fixation with the outside (cover up the windows or find some way he can't stare outside) - that is fine however, under NILIF you can do little impulse control exercises to earn some outside-time. Social isolation makes dogs weird as fuck, especially the more active ones - so try to minimize it.

Once you've read up on things, your first priority is probably counter-conditioning physical handling. Please do this after you've understood calming signals - if you're just feeding your dog treats while they're shut down, it won't do as much good.

After that I'd start on teaching calm and impulse control. The latter is almost a given under NILIF, while the former is just a matter of rewarding moments of un-cued calm. This counts as having 'earned' - don't worry too much about whether any task you made your dog do for food/rewards/whatever was really a task. Eating from your hand is a job. Shutting up for 10 seconds is. Looking you in the eye is. Not pissing on the rug is. Being a little less afraid of something is. Being petted is. Everything that is better than it could be is worth rewarding - only start increasing the criteria as you see improvement&learning.

The last few sentences are kind of my own fearful dog protocol (PS: You have a fearful dog). I call it "Fuck it, have a treat". The reality of taking a dog out and doing stuff is there are a lot of stimuli about and once you have any rapport at all (even if it's food-based), then just the experience of waltzing about and getting treats is self-reinforcing and builds calm, confidence and handler-focus. Eventually you'll probably find the process is neat anyway and want to fine-tine your and the dogs skills. Which is cool, but totally not necessary.

u/Sir_Slaughter33 · 6 pointsr/woodworking

Workbenches: From Design And Theory To Construction And Use (Popular Woodworking) https://www.amazon.com/dp/1558708405/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ywy4xbWGM2119

This is the go to I believe. It covers both types and is a great read. Just finished it myself ahead of my Roubo build

u/CaedisLampwright · 6 pointsr/Homesteading

It really depends on what kind of mushrooms you'd like to grow; I wouldn't suggest the white mushrooms you see at stores to grow first; they have some pretty specific requirements to grow that makes it difficult for the home cultivator. Shiitake are really simple to grow; get some oak logs with holes drilled in them, shove some spore plugs in it, and bam, in about a year's worth of time you'll have shiitake mushrooms and they will keep coming back for many years. (With more and more every year)

Also some mushroom tips:

  • Keep everything spotless and disinfected while working. Whether you go with store bought or spores cross-contamination is a serious problem with mushrooms. As in, if you don't sterilize you will not have mushrooms. You'll have random mold and... stuff.

  • Bleach and bleach wipes are your friends

  • Sterilize EVERYTHING (Especially soil and growing mediums)

  • keep your hands washed and ultra clean

  • Keep hair tied back, latex gloves, and even a face mask to prevent your nasty mouth germs from getting on your shrooms

    Generally it's a good idea to watch videos and search for the kind of mushroom you want to grow; Paul Stamet's Growing Gourmet and Medicinal Mushrooms is an awesome resource as well. You can also find a (not sure about the legality) free PDF version if you just search for it + pdf. It contains general growing information as well as specific cultivation tips of almost every mushroom you could want to grow.


    But anyway, here's some things to consider:

    Mushroom spores:

  • Wider variety of different kinds of fungi to choose from

  • Tends to be pretty expensive, but it's usually a one time investment if you're good at the mushroom growing

  • Some companies are super nice and will send you cultivation instructions/hints which you might not find

    Mushrooms from Stores:

  • Small selection, usually limited to portobello, shiitake, oyster, and chantarelles (white mushrooms are reeeaaallly difficult to grow from what I've read; I've never tried to grow them)

  • I find you have a higher chance of cross-contamination with store-bought mushrooms.

  • Much much cheaper than spores.

  • It can be pretty difficult to get spore-prints and keep them sanitary.

  • Best variety for growing from store-bought mushrooms is oysters. You can find lots of youtube tutorials on choosing which ones to get to start your mushrooms to the best growing medium, etc. etc.

    Hope this helps!
u/Jackson3125 · 6 pointsr/gardening

Ooh! Ooh! This sounds fun. I put some time into this when I should have been working, so I hope it helps.

1) Pruners - $20.49

This will be your most used tool. Eventually, you can upgrade into Felcos or Bahcos, but right now just get these Coronas. They're honestly a better size for hobby gardeners (fit right in your pocket), and the're very high quality for the price.

2) Your First Gardening Book - $17.06

Gardening Without Work by Ruth Stout. It's simple and gives you a general plan that really does work very well. It's a must for beginning gardeners, imho. You can find just about any other information you need on the internet (for now). Very little maintenance required, including fertilizing, weeding, applying pesticides, etc. (In a nutshell, the main step involves putting down an 8" layer of mulch...).

If you want to go with a more traditional raised bed setup, you should buy Mel Bartholomew's Square Foot Gardening. It's a fantastic back yard gardening book, as well, but the methods are kind of pricey and less sustainable. Still, it's a great system for growing a lot of food in limited space and it was the first book I used.

3) Indestructible Garden Trowel - $15.99

This will be your second most used tool. This particular model is about as indestructible as it gets short of this bad boy. You'll use it for digging holes for transplanting, mostly. Don't buy a cheap one or it will bend or break or both.

4) Fertilizer - $7.83 + $11.06 = $24.26

I chose cottonseed meal because that's what Ruth Stout recommends using (the rest of the nutrients in her system come from the giant mounds of mulch). Apply as she indicates.

I also added some Fish Emulsion Liquid Fertilizer because I love the stuff. It's a great way to add some extra nitrogen (and just a little P & K) mid season to your veggies or even to your compost pile when it gets carbon heavy. The stuff I have right now stinks, but the plants love it and it's easy to apply if you have a watering can.

Make sure you tailor your fertilizer to whatever system you're using, though. Don't fertilize like Ruth if you're not using her mulch based system. If you're using Square Foot Gardening, you won't be fertilizing at all, but you will be using lots of peat, vermiculite, and (different kinds of) compost. Etc, etc, etc.

5) Work Gloves - $10.97

These are specifically for women, but there's a button to switch to men's if that's you. You won't wear them all the time, but you'll be happy you have them when you need them. Notice that this comes with 6 pairs of gloves. I misplace gloves all the time, so having several is handy (hehe).

__

Total: $88.77


__

Notes:


  • Save the rest for now. You're inevitably going to become enamored with something like earthworm casings, azomite, or a nozzle for your gardening hose down the line. Your future self will thank you for having some extra cash to buy it with, and this is plenty to get you started on your way to being a badass backyard gardener.

  • The two above methods claim to be mostly pest free. In my experience, nothing is pest free, and you just need to grow enough quantity to weather the storm when it does randomly come. I would just concentrate on growing healthy plants first and foremost and then let the chips fall where they may. You might turn to pesticides later, and that's fine, but hold off on buying any until you know what is nibbling on your plants. Most pesticides are specific to the pest.

  • Notice that I don't include any seeds. Your first year of gardening, I'd honestly recommend just buying live plants from your local nursery (and sticking to plants bred to survive in your region). Growing from seed can be hard, and your entire crop of seedlings dying is a humbling experience, I can assure you.

    The other reason there are no seeds on my list is because I don't recommend buying them on Amazon. I've had bad experiences every time I've tried it. If you need seeds, go with a good seed dealer, like Johnny's Selected Seeds, Burpee, etc, or find a good nursery in your area.

  • If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.

    _____

    TL;DR: Pruners, a book to get you started, a durable trowel, fertilizer that is specific to your growing plan, and some gloves. Enjoy!
u/AnInconvenientBlooth · 6 pointsr/Permaculture

Start with Gaia’s Garden (https://www.amazon.com/Gaias-Garden-Guide-Home-Scale-Permaculture/dp/1603580298/)

Permaculture on the scale for those of us that aren’t farmers.

u/kleinbl00 · 6 pointsr/Permaculture

Toby Hemenway would disagree with you.

the aggressive nature of bamboo is greatly overstated. This is partly due to the fact that things like sidewalks actually make it more aggressive - it will eagerly shoot under 24" of concrete to come out the other side. It is also partly due to bamboo's need for trimming - in the wild, all sorts of critters eat the shoots when they're small so only a few ever reach the crown. However, there are all sorts of bamboo barriers that do a righteous job of containing bamboo even if you're too lazy to go out and eat the shoots every now and then.

Is bamboo a voracious grower? Yes. Are its rhizomes tough to eradicate once a clump is established? Yes. But compared to some perfectly mainstream-acceptable plants like ivy and blackberries, it's a pussycat. People freak out about bamboo because it's what the cool kids do. Likely there was someone who moved into a house with a bamboo grove in the back, decide to take it out, and discover that it doesn't go quietly.

I once had eight sawed-off 55gal drums full of golden bamboo. They were beautiful. They were also on pallets, in a parking lot, 150 feet from the nearest bare earth.

That didn't stop total strangers from walking up while I was watering and saying "better be careful, that stuff will get away from you!"

u/Ponykiin · 6 pointsr/Permaculture

I was introduced by Gaia's Garden , it was a wonderful read and an even better starting point

u/stephm22 · 5 pointsr/germanshepherds

Monks of new skete "Art of Raising a Puppy". The Art of Raising a Puppy (Revised Edition) https://www.amazon.com/dp/0316083275/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GPfOBb4SH8CCF

u/magespooks · 5 pointsr/germanshepherds

Wow, your first dog is going to be a German Shepherd..... Do your research, he will be great with the kids as long as your willing to put the time in to do this right.

GSD pups are notorious for being "mouthy". Redirect him, when he bites, let out an "OUCH", draw back, play stops, give him a bone immediately. (or suitable chew toy) Remember, you are not rewarding him, you are redirecting. He is a baby, he is teething and hasn't learned bite inhibition yet. You have to teach him.

I have also used the technique that when he bites, "OUCH" and turn your back on him. That is what worked for my current boy. You would have thought he lost his best friend. It was traumatic, he did not like it at all. It worked.

Potty training. If you don't catch him in the act, don't scold him, he has no idea he did anything wrong. If you catch him, "NO" and immediately take him outside. When outside in the appropriate place and he starts to go, use a key word like "going potty", "go poop" whatever you want to use. You will feel like an idiot saying it over and over while the dog defecates but you will thank me later.

Consistency and routine are your friend. He IS smarter than you are.

I would highly recommend a professional trainer for YOU. At least basic puppy classes. Crate train, it is the best thing on the planet. You can also use it to help build his bladder.

He appears to be about 12 weeks, can't really tell for sure. You have so much research to do....

The Monks of New Skete "The art of raising a Puppy" is a good resource book on raising GSDs. They have a good mix of positive training with discipline. GSDs need both. He has to view you as the pack leader or he is going to walk all over you. Especially since he is a male.

These are my opinions. I have had Shepherds since I was a kid and the past 25 years as an adult. I took a basic puppy class last year with our newest Dog. It was for me as a refresher more than for him but he got some socialization out of it as well. They need that, take him places, new sounds, people, pets. Do not let it be traumatic for him. He will go through "fear periods" every so often, he will be afraid of things that he wasn't before but it will pass.

These things are a Godsend

u/pjdwyer30 · 5 pointsr/dogs

Loved this book. Dr. McConnell had 2 or 3 border collies at the time of that book and has had them her whole adult life. she uses them on her sheep farm as herding dogs. She is also an animal/dog behaviorist.

Stanley Coren has some good ones too like this on on How Dogs Think, this one on How to Speak Dog, and this one on The Intelligence of Dogs.

u/octaffle · 5 pointsr/dogs

Welcome to the fold, mate. You're right. Dogs evolved with us over thousands of years to take direction and integrate into the lives of us, their human caretakers. The idea that dogs are constantly vying for dominance over us is pervasive, harmful, and just incorrect. I'm not sure of how you've trained her for eight years, but for most people, dominance theory/training is physically punishing the dog (sometimes harshly) for doing something wrong without ever telling the dog how to do things right. Every thing the dog does to act out is somehow a struggle towards the top position in the pack and the owner puts the dog back in its place at the bottom.

Imagine if that's how you were treated at work, if every time you did something wrong, the boss interpreted your behavior as threatening his position and you receieved punishment without explanation why or a demonstration on how to do it right. Praise for doing something correctly would come rarely, if ever. It's depressing. You fall in line and do your job, but are fearful and confused because of the management style. That's what dominance theory/training tends to promote.

Does it work to get obedient dogs? Yes. Is it easy to do? Yes. The cost? The relationship between the trainer and the dog.

The Other End of the Leash and Don't Shoot the Dog are both very good books for someone in your position. You can begin rewarding your dog for behavior you like. You can stop physically punishing her when something goes wrong; a simple and firm "No" or "HEY" is enough of a punishment for many dogs. They want to please (mostly).

It's not important to be the alpha over your dog. You should never demand submission. The respect your dog from you should never come from fear. It is important to be your dog's leader: someone she can trust when she's unsure or scared, someone she respects not because she's afraid, someone who guides her and shows her what to do, and someone who keeps her safe. Demand obedience when it's necessary, not submission, and do so with gentle but firm methods. Begin treating your dog like partner instead of a minion or soldier and you'll begin to see some huge changes in your dog and in your relationship.

u/BonchiFox · 5 pointsr/Hounds

I recommend Don't Shoot the Dog! by Karen Pryor--Karen Pryor is click-training advocate who specialized in behavioral psychology and marine mammal biology ( also has a website, hosts clicker-expos around the states, and dog trainer academy.)


The second book I recommend is The Other End of the Leash: Why We do What we Do Around Dogs by Patricia B. McConnell. Patricia McConnel is a University professor of Zooology, trained ethologist, and CAAB ( Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist)

These two wonderful ladies are extremely insightful and break down different types of training. :) Good luck!

u/Manafont · 5 pointsr/Kombucha

I will check that out, thanks! This post reminded me of The Botany of Desire, which is what inspired my comment.

u/ManInKilt · 5 pointsr/IWantToLearn
u/HotterRod · 5 pointsr/knots

Most working knots are pre-historic or a-historic.

Since natural fibre rope tends to decompose quickly, most knots do not survive for archaeologists to find them (the biggest exception is knots used in Egyptian tombs). By the time people started writing about knots such as in Ancient Greece, most of the key nautical knots were already in widespread use.

Other knots are not mentioned in ancient history, so we can guess that they were developed more recently, but they were invented by sailors who were either illiterate or didn't bother writing them down, but instead passed the knot on to other sailors by direct instruction. Given that sailors tend to travel widely, the most useful knots spread globally (probably rather quickly). Eventually those knots got documented by someone like Clifford Ashley, but the story of their original invention was lost by that point.

The Ashley Book of Knots has a number of cute stories in it although the vast majority of its knots have no history. The History and Science of Knots discusses the methodological problems with determining a history as much as history itself.

As to your particular example, you can figure out the properties of a knot by testing it. People like Ashley and the International Guild of Knot Tyers have extensively tested knots that have come down to us through history. Although many knots work so differently in synthetic fibre that a lot of the knowledge from even the mid 20th Century doesn't apply on a modern ship.

u/And_go · 5 pointsr/knitting

Came here to post exactly this. They make learning rather interesting and fun, and the patterns are more in style than a lot of the books I've read. Amazon link, if anyone is interested.

u/Salad_Phallus · 5 pointsr/tarantulas

Handling isn't recommended for many reasons. Any tarantula should be considered unpredictable, because they are ultimately wild animals and their mood can change in an instant. For example: I recently saw pictures from a guy who was adjusting the water dish in his G. pulchripes' enclosure. Now, G. pulchripes are like the old beagle of the T world; they're mellow, slow, and never bite people. However, the T felt vibrations and, acting on a feeding response, bit this guy on the hand. Luckily this was a T that has very low venom, but this can happen with any tarantula, and is more likely to happen with more defensive species (i.e. the one pictured hanging off of your shirt).

The other reason that handling is not recommended: You could hurt or kill your T. This is especially true for tarantulas that are not arboreal, which E. murinus is definitely not (they're a burrowing species, pretty much the opposite). If they drop from any significant height, they are at great risk of splitting their abdomen and "bleeding" to death. If she's hanging off of your shirt, she was at a very high risk of falling and dieing-- please do not do that again if you want to avoid a split abdomen and dead T.

I hope I'm not coming off as preachy or like I'm jumping on your back-- I just want you to understand the risk to you and your tarantula that is involved when you handle it. They don't enjoy being handled, and they can never get used to it or learn to like it; they literally don't have the capacity to. Every time you handle them, it's new stimulus and they will react to it different every time.

Edit: I'm seeing that you only have experience with G. rosea. After only experiencing that species, it's not recommended that you jump immediately to such a defensive species but she's yours now so there's no going back. If you haven't, do some research on the care of this species. They're burrowers and will need a decent amount of substrate to burrow and be happy. Also, if you haven't bought it already, buy the Tarantula Keeper's Guide, everyone who keeps tarantulas should own one. Also, make yourself a profile over at Arachnoboards. It's a great (large) community of very experienced tarantula hobbyists who can answer any and all questions that you have. The man who literally wrote the book on tarantulas, Stan Schultz, frequents the forum and answers questions, and there are men and women there who have been in the hobby since the 60's or 70's. It's a really great place with a lot of information :)

u/spit-evil-olive-tips · 5 pointsr/SeattleWA

There are no quick tips on how to tell the poisonous ones from the delicious ones from the hallucinogenic ones.

Buy an identification book (this is a good one) or make friends with someone who knows what they're doing (they'll have that book, and others, on their shelf).

If you're not 100% positive about a species identification, don't eat it. Some of the poisonous ones don't just kill you, they kill you in one of the most painful and nasty ways to die (liver failure).

u/fomentarius · 5 pointsr/mycology

Mushrooms Demystified is a good general ID book. It's a little dated, so some of the taxonomy has been updated since it's last edition, but it'll get you started. I'd also recommend looking into more regionally specific guidebooks for your area. There are tons such as Musrhooms of the Mid West or Mushrooms of Colorado and the Southwest Rocky Mountains. A quick web search should get you in the ballpark.

Check out Robert Rogers' Fungal Pharmacy. Most comprehensive book on the medicinal qualities of fungi that I've encountered.

Edit: Also, I like The Deerholme Mushroom Book for the culinary angle.

u/Lakiw · 5 pointsr/disneyvacation
u/ColinOnReddit · 5 pointsr/mildlyinteresting
u/SeattleBattles · 5 pointsr/nothingeverhappens

You still have the chance!

You can also by his other work, Understanding Wood, so you know what to do once you identify some.

u/BoundingBorder · 5 pointsr/Dogtraining

Sophia Yin has some good books:
Perfect Puppy

How to behave so your dog behaves

Calming Signals by Turid Rugaas

Don't Shoot the Dog by Karen Pryor

Subscribe to Kikopup (and her website dogmantics), and Tab289 on YouTube to cover a lot of clicker training basics and basic behavior modification exercises.

Sue Ailsby's training levels website for a puppy training to-do list.

u/Shearaha1 · 5 pointsr/Dogtraining

Leaving mom and litter mates at 6 weeks left him in a developmental lurch. From 5-8 weeks in when they really learn how to me dogs, and how and when to use those sharp teeth of theirs. I would get him into a puppy class with a good trainer ASAP so he doesn't totally miss out. Once he has his first set of shots there's no greater risk of infection from a puppy class than taking him to the vet for his next set.

You also don't know how much, and what quality, human interaction he had before you got him. He may not be comfortable snuggling, he may just be one of those not so demonstrative dogs.

I highly recommend picking up a copy of Dr. Yins Perfect Puppy in 7 Days and Dr. Dunbars Before and After Getting Your Puppy

u/Gurneydragger · 5 pointsr/PlantedTank

I would take a deep breath and do some research. This book helped me figure out how to keep a freshwater aquarium with less maintenance and more science.

  • I think you might actually slow down on the water changes. I would hand strip as much algae as you can as often as you can. Every time you get algae out you are effectively removing nutrients from the tank. There might be something in your tap the algae like.

  • Remove any plant parts that are yellowing and not actively growing, as they die they leak nutrients.

  • Change the light and get something in a higher kelvin range. The plant growth ones at Petco or whatever are garbage. They are just based on anecdotes and marketing, more blue is better. Plus a rapid shift like that might slow down the algae. Those yellow plant lights just make plants look greener. Personally I have had great success with 6500K bulbs. The above book has a chapter about CO2 and nutrient uptake with different K bulbs, the higher K bulbs were better for plant growth.

  • The goal here is to help the plants out compete the algae, the algae will always be ready to exploit extra nutrients. Let the algae grow and prune it like crazy, stop feeding the tank at all for now. The fish will find food. Keep the nutrients at the roots, not in the water.

  • Think of this as more like a reef tank than a plant tank, you want to limit the nutrients that the algae like and let the plants use their evolved root system to acquire nutrients from the substrate.

  • What kind of substrate are you using? A $10 bag of potting soil will go a long way to controlling nutrients. Just make sure it doesn't have chemical fertilizers that will dissolve into the water or chicken manure, because thats fuckin gross. They usually have the ingredients listed on the bag.

  • If you are ready to get out the hobby, try those steps first. It will take a little time and some work but it should get you there. Limit your expenditures, start with a higher kelvin bulb and potting soil.
u/n1ywb · 5 pointsr/PlantedTank

You can run any size you like from a jar to a pond. Mine is a 20H. Bear in mind that you may need to reduce stocking levels somewhat below a "normal" tank to maintain equilibrium. A properly setup Walstad tank has 0/0/0 levels because the plants absorb the nitrogen as fast as the fish can make it.

She wrote a great book about it https://www.amazon.com/Ecology-Planted-Aquarium-Diana-Walstad/dp/0967377366

u/CleverHansDevilsWork · 5 pointsr/Dogtraining

Like most training, you need to set up practice scenarios in order to succeed. If you dive straight into real world scenarios with highly valued items, of course you'll fail. It's a bit like trying to teach recall at the dog park without practicing hundreds of times in scenarios that are easier for your dog (and then claiming treats just don't work). You're setting the dog up for failure. You always need to set up situations where it's easy for the dog to give you the response you want. In this case, you need to give the dog low value items you can trade for in a calm, safe environment. Practice with items the dog is all too willing to trade for and gradually work your way up to higher value items and extremely high value items for trade. These practice scenarios will often involve items you can give back to the dog after you've taken them away. That teaches the dog that giving an item to you doesn't necessarily mean it will be taken away, and that really helps to build trust for emergency situations in the real world.

Mine! by Jean Donaldson is a good overview of guarding behavior in dogs and some of the steps you can take to work on it while making sure that you and others remain safe.

u/tokisushi · 5 pointsr/corgi

It's resource guarding. The key to working with this is to change the goal from taking something away to building confidence that you being around valued things is OK. the more you fight and restrain him and push him over his threshold, the more difficult working with this behavior will become.

If you find yourself stuck, call in a positive reinforcement based behaviorist with guarding experience. Be sure to discuss this approach in detail and make sure it is something you can continue to work on safely when the trainer isn't there.

This is one of my favorite articles on recourse guarding - it can be a good starting place : http://www.patriciamcconnell.com/theotherendoftheleash/resource-guarding-treatment-and-prevention


Also this book : http://www.amazon.com/Mine-Practical-Guide-Resource-Guarding/dp/0970562942

u/Works_For_Treats · 5 pointsr/dogs

This sounds like resource guarding to me. Especially if he's in a daycare and isn't aggressive there. He doesn't want anyone messing with his things. At daycare it's rare for there to be resources to guard, and if it's a reputable place there won't be. So it follows that he'd have no reason to be aggressive. You're also entirely right that the pup would learn from him. While he has these issues it would be unwise to introduce another dog into the situation.

A great primer for understanding resource guarding as well as protocols that can be set in place to prevent and eventually fix the issue is Mine. At his age he is still relatively young and the problem is only just now really developing, so it can be reversed. It's not your fault for not seeing the signs before it began to happen on a very obvious scale, you're not trainers or behaviorists nor have you been taught to recognize these things. It isn't your fault and you did you best with the knowledge you had.

What methods did the trainer you used in NY use if you don't mind me asking?

u/thisisthepoint_er · 5 pointsr/dogs

It you haven’t yet, check out “Mine!”. The person suggesting that hitting a resource guarding dog is appropriate is very much incorrect.

u/Phoolf · 5 pointsr/dogs

I would recommend this book http://www.amazon.co.uk/Mine-Practical-Guide-Resource-Guarding/dp/0970562942 called Mine! A Practical Guide to Resource Guarding in Dogs by Jean Donaldson. It should help you understand why this has happened and what to do about it. If the problem escalates and you find yourself unable to cope then consult a behaviourist.

u/adude1451 · 5 pointsr/howto

i think this bench will serve you just fine but if i may make a suggestion for others. looking for bench advice.

i found this book really interesting. If for nothing else click on the look inside. go to page 9 and look at the ten rules.

u/ADPrepper · 5 pointsr/preppers

Don't forget general skill books with old techniques for many of these areas, like:

The Encyclopedia of Country Living

Back to Basics

/u/dave9199 has already recommended "Country Wisdom and Know How" which I second. Really the whole series is great.

u/SomeTechDude · 5 pointsr/SelfSufficiency

This book has a ton of info on a wide range of topics:

http://www.amazon.com/Encyclopedia-Country-Living-Anniversary-Edition/dp/1570618402

u/kmc_v3 · 5 pointsr/preppers

Oh, cultivating mushrooms for food is another good skill. They'll grow (if you pick the right kind) on any kind of wood or paper scrap. They don't need soil or light, just a little water misting and ventilation. The spent growth medium also makes for fantastic compost and you may even get bonus mushrooms in your garden!

The main challenge in mushroom growing is sterile technique, since any environment that's good for mushrooms is also great for growing mold. Sterile technique takes practice, but the equipment needed is minimal. The main thing you need is a pressure cooker, which is also extremely useful for canning and cooking — essential prepper equipment, imo.

You can also use mushrooms to decontaminate soil — "mycoremediation". I can't speak to the effectiveness, nor the safety of eating the resulting mushrooms (I would throw them out; some organic molecules will be broken down, but not heavy metals). However in a survival situation, this could be a good way to get more usable land for plant cultivation.

Check out Growing Gourmet and Medicinal Mushrooms by Paul Stamets. I recommend starting with oyster or shiitake. In fact you can buy prepackaged kits for growing these, which makes a good beginner project.

u/uliarliarpantsonfire · 5 pointsr/gardening

Ah I see. Well here are some things on my list, I think it's different from gardener to gardener.

seed starter with heat

Kevlar sleeves for prickly plants and tomatoes that make me itch

seed stamp for planting

square foot gardening book

knee pads

garden clogs

gloves I go through gloves like crazy!

plant markers

gardening set just some basic tools

bucket organizer

of course there are lots of other things that you might want like seeds, tomato cages, kits for building your own raised beds they are all available from amazon, so it really depends on what you like and want to grow. I don't know if this helps you any? Maybe plan out your garden and what you want to grow then you'll know what you need?

u/modgrow · 5 pointsr/homestead

I am relatively new to this subject and these books have been useful for me:

The Urban Homestead A good introductory book that touches on a lot of relevant topics.

Gaia's Garden This is not specifically a homesteading book but it is a very useful book for growing food and learning about small scale permacultural design.

Four Season Harvest Another useful book for growing, especially for those of us in cold climates.

Country Wisdom & Know How A fun reference for many homestead topics.

u/stalk_of_fennel · 5 pointsr/gardening

if its your first house can i suggest a couple books?


http://www.amazon.com/Gaias-Garden-Second-Home-Scale-Permaculture/dp/1603580298/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1278971308&sr=1-1

or



Intro to Permaculture by Mill Mollison
http://www.amazon.com/Introduction-Permaculture-Bill-Mollison/dp/0908228082


p.s. pssssst... get rid of the lawn and put in something useful and beautiful.

u/bjneb · 5 pointsr/survivalfood

For general gardening books, I recommend The Vegetable Gardener's Bible. If you are looking specifically for information on saving seeds and related information, I recommend Seed to Seed.

u/excited_by_typos · 5 pointsr/gardening

I bought this book recently because I wanted to learn this exact thing. I recommend it it’s really good

u/fidelitypdx · 5 pointsr/preppers

Dude....Any basic gardener can tell you the shelf life of a seed.

If you have no experience gardening you don't need to store seeds.

Seeds are alive, if you really want to maintain seeds you need to read this book:

https://www.amazon.com/Seed-Growing-Techniques-Vegetable-Gardeners/dp/1882424581

This is the most important resource book on seed saving I've come across, I'd say it's invaluable as a prepper and gardener.

Since you have no idea how seed saving works, most seeds have a life of 1-5 years. The life of a seed is a lot like an atomic "half-life". After the typical life span of a seed about half of the seeds won't germinate.

You could easily test this yourself if you've ever done any gardening. Just find a seed packet from 3-5 years ago, even if it contains 50+ seeds, and you'll be lucky if you get even a few sprouts.

"Seed vaults" don't make any sense, they're advocated by people who have no practical experience growing their own food. As an example of this, even if you do want to deploy your seed stash, you're going to need specialized fertilizers and equipment...which you'd know if you had experience gardening.

u/any_name_left · 5 pointsr/aww

My rescue dog had/has separation anxiety. This book helped me. Also, having another pet really helped my pup. I got a cat and he was better. Some animals just don't want to be alone.

u/gravity_low · 4 pointsr/germanshepherds

Seconded for "The art of raising a puppy" by the Monks of New Skete as a fantastic start to fundamentals of dog training, with a couple of personal amendments:

  • Tug of war is a fantastic tool to be used to teach how to have a soft mouth when asked. Make sure they know how to drop it when you ask and you won't have a problem

  • The tip about grabbing a dog's paws when he jumps up and holding on to make him uncomfortable I have found to not work, since the dog just finds it to be a fun game. Better to put your hand directly in front of his face as he is about to jump up to stop it completely

  • treats are an essential tool to training and can be phased out over time. They suggest to just use praise which is great especially for mouth-based tasks but not in all circumstances

  • one thing I don't think they mentioned: a toy by itself isn't interesting to a dog (unless it squeaks, in which case it probably is interesting to him but annoys the hell out of you..) so don't think that because your dog sniffed a new toy and lost interest he doesn't like it. You have to make it fun and interesting and he'll be hooked. You'll definitely find preferences, but don't be bringing home new toys every night just to "keep him interested." You make the toys he has already fun and engaging by playing with them WITH him

    Hardcopy

    Audiobook
u/phrogxix · 4 pointsr/dogs

We love Jan Fennell: http://www.amazon.com/Dog-Listener-Communicate-Willing-Cooperation/dp/0060199539

And The Other End of the Leash is an invaluable book for any animal lover: http://www.amazon.com/Other-End-Leash-What-Around/dp/034544678X/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1314422999&sr=1-1

OH! And any Karen Pryor clicker training books!

u/carry_on_phenomenon · 4 pointsr/dogs

Whew, ok, lots to unpack here.

First question: does your dad know you're about to give him a GSD puppy? You're signing him up for a pretty big 2 year commitment here (and that's just the puppy phase), so please make sure he's 100% on board with the idea of raising a landshark demon spawn before bringing it home.

Secondly, breed standard puts an adult GSD somewhere in the neighborhood of 24" tall and 60-80lb. This can vary widlly based on sex, line, and breeding quality. My poorly-bred GSD male is 29" tall and a scrawny 85lb. I've also seen some pretty petite females come through my rescue.
On the subject of lines, do you know what kind of GSD you're getting? There are various working and show lines, and the personality and structure of your GSD can come out all over the map. If you don't know the answer from talking to your breeder, run away, because you're not getting a well-bred dog. Poorly-bred GSDs are health and temperament nightmares.

Thirdly, the breed standard calls for a confident but aloof personality, but again, temperaments may vary depending on lines and breeding quality. GSDs need to be socialized thoroughly but carefully to lock in that confident-but-also-aloof sweet spot. Flooding your puppy with tons of new people and places will create a fearful adult, but so will keeping your dog locked up. I have seen lots of success using a puppy-led gentle exposure technique. Take your dog to lots of places, but don't make the novelty into a big deal. Don't force your puppy to interact with every person and dog you see, and call it a day if your puppy seems overwhelmed or scared. A puppy builds confidence by exploring on its own, you're just there to moderate the experience and make sure it's a positive one. I can't recommend a group obedience class enough for young GSDs...learning to focus in a controlled environment around other dogs is a valuable asset for future life skills. Consider finding a local trainer that does group positive reinforcement based training, or at least very positive-leaning balanced training. Avoid anyone who mentioned "alpha" or "pack leader" because that school of thought is outdated and disproven (but is holding on forever in GSD breed circles for some reason). Also avoid anyone who wants to put a prong or choke collar on your dog without evaluating their behavior first.

Honestly, if I were you I'd stop and do a little more research before bringing home a GSD. They're a little more of a "lifestyle breed" than your average family pet, and will find and exploit any weakness in your dog-owning abilities. Read some books (recommendations here: 1 2 3 4), talk to your dad, take a good look at your breeder, maybe find a local trainer with a good positive puppy class, and try again with a little more information under your belt.

u/BiggityGnar33 · 4 pointsr/Dogtraining

I would like to recommend a couple of books.
The Other End of the Leash by Patricia McConnell. She has a PhD in behaviorism and has worked with a lot of aggressive dogs but she only uses positive reinforcement. Her book talks a lot about the difference between primates and canids (aka dogs) and how those differences create misunderstandings.

Bones Would Rain from the Sky by Suzanne Clothier. Suzanne has tons of experience with all kinds of animals. Her book focuses a lot on what it means to have a trusting, healthy relationship with dogs and I guarantee it will change the way you see your dog.

I also have a reactive border collie. You are on the right track with the hamburger treats while walking, but you need to not get your dog over threshold to the point where she can't focus on you or the treats any more. And more exercise is never a bad thing for a border collie, mental and physical.

Good luck!

u/hard_truth_hurts · 4 pointsr/preppers

> low investment

Hah! Yeah sure, until one day you wake up and realize you have like a mile of paracord and 100 pounds of beads, buckles, and other accessories.

Also to add to this, beyond just knots is macrame and all kinds of useful and decorative stuff. If you look around you can find a PDF of the Ashley Book of Knots. I don't think I have ever been into a Half-Priced Books store that did not have at least a dozen knot books. Look in the section where the boat books are.

u/DyrimSpeaks · 4 pointsr/knitting

Stitch n’ Bitch: The Knitter’s Handbook
Thought I’d include a link for reference 🧶

u/themodernvictorian · 4 pointsr/knitting

I taught myself to knit from Stitch 'n Bitch. After that it was all practice and experimentation. I really enjoyed practicing knitting things from The Ultimate Sourcebook of Knitting and Crochet Stitches.

u/we_broke_reddit · 4 pointsr/tarantulas

As the other guy stated, there is quite a lot wrong with this setup.

Tarantulas don't like a lot of space. They are typically most happy in an enclosure that has the floor space of about 3 times their diagonal leg span(DLS).

Personally, I would scrap the whole enclosure and save it for when you get a large terrestrial T. Instead, I would recommend buying something like this.

Your Avic Avic is an arboreal species, so they will like to web close to the top of the enclosure. Not webbing for 4 days isn't a cause to panic (although the delay could be exacerbated by the size of this enclosure). My Avic. Versicolor, another arboreal species, is in an enclosure similar to the one I linked for you and she webbed within 24 hours. However, not webbing for a while is normal after a rehousing.

I made the exact same mistake when I was a beginner to the hobby. Definitely do your research and I would always recommend picking up a copy of The Tarantula Keepers Guide.

Don't be worried about stressing her out, 10 minutes of stress for the T during rehousing is a lot better than a T not suited to its environment. She'll be much happier in an enclosure that is suitable for her.

u/Merridiah · 4 pointsr/tarantulas

Read this book. It covers all the basics fairly well. Aside from that, research the specific species you want for more specific care information and don't be afraid to ask questions.

u/yentlequible · 4 pointsr/tarantulas

-There are many great beginner species. Most popular and the cheapest is a Grammostola rosea, or chilean rose hair. Brachypelma species are some of my favorites, and Brachypelma smithi are one of the most well known. They are your iconic Mexican red knee that you think of when someone brings up tarantulas. With this being your first T, you I'd recommend either of those, and you'd be just fine.

-You can check local pet stores and that would be fastest, but stay away from big chain stores such as petsmart or petco since they usually don't care for their animals properly. Try to find the smaller unique shops that really specialize in their exotic section.

-Bedding and housing is very simple. Both of the species I listed above are very hardy and don't need much. A proper amount of substrate (coconut fiber would work great for you), a good water dish, and a hide i s all they need to be happy. The rest of the setup is up to you for aesthetics, as long as you keep their home safe for the T. Check out the links on the sidebar for more information

They are very easy pets to maintain, and you won't regret buying them. They are fascinating to watch them grow as you learn more about them. A great source of knowledge that can answer just about any question you have is The Tarantula Keeper's Guide. This is a must have for any hobbyist, beginner or experienced, and I highly recommend picking up a copy. If you have the time and patience, buy it before you get a spider and read through it all the way. You'll learn so many things to help you in the future. Good luck!

u/geekasaur14 · 4 pointsr/NatureIsFuckingLit

Absolutely! As far as fun and educational videos, I recommend browsing Tom Moran’s channel Tom’s Big Spiders (he also has a blog) as well as The Dark Den. Tom actually has a blog post (here) giving a run-down of the Avicularia revision, as well!

Quality books on tarantulas are, unfortunately, few and far between. However, Stanley & Marguerite Schultz’s book The Tarantula Keeper’s Guide has long been considered a bible for hobbyists. It focuses mainly on tarantulas in captivity, but it does delve into some of the biology and physiology of Theraphosids. There is some outdated infomation in terms of husbandry and taxonomy since the latest edition was published in 2009, but it’s still an excellent book!

u/NOT__ENOUGH__INFO · 4 pointsr/mushroom_hunting
u/ToadsUSA · 4 pointsr/Mushrooms

My favorites are:

Roger Phillips Mushrooms and Other Fungi....
https://www.amazon.com/Mushrooms-Other-Fungi-North-America/dp/155407651X

David Arora Mushrooms Demystified
https://www.amazon.com/Mushrooms-Demystified-David-Arora/dp/0898151694

Audubon Society Field Guide:
https://www.amazon.com/National-Audubon-Society-American-Mushrooms/dp/0394519922

DK Mushroom Book:
https://m.barnesandnoble.com/p/mushrooms-dk/1127751094/2689838557184

This last one is a big beautiful hardcover book with a lot of different mushrooms from around the world and some excellent pictures:
https://www.amazon.com/Book-Fungi-Life-Size-Hundred-Species/dp/0226721175

Other than that it would depend on your region because I have some guides I love that focus on my region.

u/saurebummer · 4 pointsr/mycology

For a pocket guide I'd recommend All That the Rain Promises and More. It has a little bit of a bias towards species in western North America, but it's still very useful in the east (I'm in New England and I love it). Mushrooms Demystified is pretty big for taking into the field, but it is a great companion to ATtRPaM, and it is the best all around field guide for North America, in my opinion.

u/Egotisticallama · 4 pointsr/mycology

I would suggest picking up Mushrooms Demystified and All That the Rain Promises and More. Great books to get you into identification.

And remember; There are old mushroom hunters, and there are bold mushroom hunters, but there are no old bold mushroom hunters!

u/Crypta · 4 pointsr/mycology

The mushroom you have there is a Red Chanterelle, inactive, although rather delicious.

If you're hunting for the real deal, try searching for Panaelous Cinctulus. They often grow in well fertilized lawns, and in or around horse dung. P. Cinctulus occurs in all 50 states and in many countries worldwide.

My best advice to you if you are serious about doing this (which you seem to be), is to learn how to properly identify a mushroom. I highly recommend you purchase a field manual such as "Mushrooms Demystified" by David Arora; it was my first mushroom book and is what spurred my now unending interest in fungi.

I know some people have made suggestions about further reading online, but, I urge you to check out shroomery.org. Besides having a ton of free information on what you're looking for, they have a very active and helpful forum that will be able to assist you in correctly identifying mushrooms. Be sure to read the rules (stickied at the top of the forum) before posting.

Goodluck and be safe. If you have any questions in the future or need a little help, feel free to PM me. Peace.

u/mave_of_wutilation · 4 pointsr/mycology

Invest in a good field guide. All That the Rain Promises and More is good to get your feet wet, and Mushrooms Demystified is the bible. Also, see if there are any mushroom clubs near you. Have fun!

u/Jon3laze · 4 pointsr/woodworking
u/TXrutabega · 4 pointsr/dogs

This is not for basic caretaking like how much to feed, but is extremely useful in how to bond with and begin building a relationship with your dog.

Perfect Puppy in 7 days- Sophia Yin

Good luck!

u/therobbo91 · 4 pointsr/dogs

Full disclosure, I haven't read this book because I was more interested in online resources when I got my dog. There are a lot of online resources I could recommend but I think you're on the right track if you want it to be a gift. I've read a lot of other publications by the author and really like her methods and the way she conveys things.

http://www.amazon.com/Perfect-Puppy-Days-Start-Right/dp/0964151871

u/Maxthemutty · 4 pointsr/dogs
u/glio · 4 pointsr/Dogtraining

It sounds like you may need some training of your own ;)

I'd recommend reading Perfect Puppy in 7 Days.

It's less than 200 pages and will give you valuable information for most scenarios you will experience with your puppy.

It has PICTURES & STEP BY STEP instructions. You have a lot of catching up to do!

u/bimmeresty · 4 pointsr/PlantedTank

Agreed, anyone who is interested in planted tanks should read Walstad's book at least once.

u/jamw24 · 4 pointsr/PlantedTank

Ecology of the Planted Aquarium by Diana Walstad. It's a great low tech technique using real dirt in your aquarium.

u/jinshifu · 4 pointsr/PlantedTank

I actually just set up a 29g tank recently. I did a bit of research, so there's a few things I would recommend. First and foremost, if you have time, get this book: Ecology of the Planted Aquarium. It goes over all the science, but in a way understandable to laymen, for everything you need to know about the tank: substrate, lighting, to CO2 or not CO2, what plants are best to start with to avoid algae problems, etc. Her methods have become known as the Walstad method.

For cycling, you can do fishless or fish-in. I did fishless, as the fish I wanted to stock my tank with aren't very hardy and wouldn't tolerate cycling. I didn't want to buy a hardy fish just to cycle the tank with. Here's a guide for fishless cycling: here. All you really need is bacteria from your LFS (most give it out for free), and some ammonia (any place that sells cleaning supplies will have it for ~1 dollar/jug). Most people recommend getting the API liquid testing master kit to measure ammonia/nitrates/nitrites. Don't get use strips.

In a planted tank, filter isn't too important. As long as it is rated for your tank size it should be fine. Plants eat up fish poop and left over food as macronutrients.

For substrate, there are several ways to do it. I can't remember exactly offhand, but I think what Walstad recommends is about 1'' of potting soil (organic i.e. no fertilizers in it) and around 0.5'' of sand on top, but not more as it the fine grain can choke off the O2 supply for the soil bacteria underneath.

For fish, it's up to personal preference. I used AqAdvisor. It's not perfect, but it helps tell you determine how many fish your tank can hold and whether there are glaring compatibility issues.

For bottom feeders...I think this is also personal preference. I have 3 otocinclus cats and maybe 7-8 cherry shrimp running around. Just make sure your tank is big enough.

For plants, try a bunch of different species and see what sticks. Fast growing plants like water sprites are good at sucking up nutrients and reducing algae growth. If you're going for a certain look, I would draw out a rough sketch of what type of plants you want where (i.e. foreground carpet, tall background plants, driftwood/rock placement) before you fill the tank up with anything. It's easier to place and plant these things before you fill the tank up with water.

Other things: If you get a lot of plants, you'll want good lighting. Lots of guides on that, lot of choices too. LEDs have gotten pretty good recently, but are pricey. But they need to be replaced less often. As for CO2, again, it depends on how many plants and how often. I know some people that get away with just daily dosing of fluorish excel (liquid carbon), but if you are really going the whole hog with plants, might want to look into DIY CO2, which is what I'm using for my 29g tank or even an expensive pressurized CO2 system.

Tl;dr - Buy/get your hands on Walstad's book before you make any big decisions so you understand why you're doing it, not just because some guy told you to do it. If you really don't want to pay, here's the super spark notes version: here.

u/MongoAbides · 4 pointsr/Dogtraining

You could read this. She's a literal expert and while I haven't read this book yet I've read a couple others and I think she's a great resource.

u/obastables · 4 pointsr/shiba

I know the dogs are both older but it wouldn’t hurt to take them to a basic training class that uses positive reinforcement. I would maybe suggest that you take your wife’s dog and she take yours. The idea isn’t to train the dogs so much as it is to condition them to listen better, which it sounds like your wife’s dog needs, but it will help both of you learn how to handle the dogs better and improve their bonds with the person doing the training.


It’ll also give them something to do together that’s positive & that’s really the goal. Right now they have negative interactions with negative consequences. This needs to shift to positive interactions with positive consequences.


Punishment when something bad happens is hard for dogs to understand. They don’t know that the bite was wrong or the growl was wrong or the way they looked at something was wrong and so it becomes hard to remove a bad behaviour because instead of stopping an aggression they just hide or adjust how it’s displayed. This is dangerous, because you may think they’re ok when in truth they’re just showing the aggression differently.


Positive reinforcement doesn’t teach dogs to hide their reactions. Instead you reward the actions you want to see and build positive connections between action / your reaction. It takes time, especially after an attack, but with the right training and tools I think you’ll get there.


I’d also recommend seeking a registered behaviourist if it’s within your budget, and recommend the following books:


Behavior Adjustment Training 2.0

Mine! A Practical Guide to Resource Guarding in Dogs

u/p2p_editor · 4 pointsr/woodworking

Heh. Just send him here. :)

What he needs and how he ought to set it up depends very strongly on what kind of woodworking he wants to do (cabinetry? furniture? chip-carving? bowl turning? hand tools vs. power tools?), and simple personal preference.

Without knowing any of that, it's hard to give much good advice. But if you're looking for a good book that will serve any beginner, you could get him Chris Schwartz' book on building your own workbench:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1558708405/ref=s9_psimh_gw_p14_d0_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=1AFA3F624Y2S9N986GSR&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=1389517282&pf_rd_i=507846

It's something of a rite of passage for every woodworker to start out building their own bench, and that book ought to give your man all the information he needs to figure out what kind of bench is going to work for him.

u/AliceInPlunderland · 4 pointsr/SelfSufficiency

My favorite so far is probably The Self-Sufficient Life and How to Live It by John Seymour:

http://www.amazon.com/Self-Sufficient-Life-How-Live/dp/0756654505/ref=pd_sim_14_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=61t6SRQzuNL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR129%2C160_&refRID=19QK02D2JDVH1815J35Y

I've also enjoyed The Encyclopedia of Country Living by Carla Emery:

http://www.amazon.com/Encyclopedia-Country-Living-40th-Anniversary/dp/1570618402/ref=pd_bxgy_14_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=029NTQA9FBYZB5Z7SDMF

Some of the Storey's Guide books have also been helpful to becoming more self-sufficient (Storey's Guide to Raising Rabbits, for example). I'm always on the lookout for others! <3

u/edheler · 4 pointsr/preppers

I don't have a favorite, I have a long list of favorites. Listed below is a good starter selection. Lucifer's Hammer is the book that probably most directly led to the path I am on today. I have always liked science fiction and read it long before I would have ever called myself a prepper.


Fiction, to make you think:

u/Pseudo_Prodigal_Son · 4 pointsr/mycology

I would add pasteurized chopped cardboard or sawdust to the coffee grounds in a 50 / 50 mix. You will get a better block.

If you don't already have it, this book is worth the $30.

u/shillyshally · 4 pointsr/gardening

Square Foot Gardening.

Whoa! One or the other. One of the biggest reasons people drop out of gardening as a hobby is that they start with too much - too big a plot, too ambitious a plan. Start small.

u/BlueberryRush · 4 pointsr/conspiracy

Sepp Holzer is also from Austria and has done some great things and written a few books.

Toby Hemenway's book, Gaia's Garden, is fantastic.

If you only care about growing vegetables in a garden bed, there are a lot of books on how to get started and any one of them would work for you. Go to a used book store and see what they have, I'm sure you'll find something you like.

u/danecarney · 4 pointsr/funny

Well, as someone who worked a blue collar job while studying philosophy in my leisure time, I'd have to say I've come to the same conclusion. Plan on moving out west and joining an ecovillage/worker cooperative. You might want to look into permaculture for your gardening, better yields through organic farming.

(Not trying to one-up you, just saying that thanks to the wide-spread nature of information, you don't have to be an academic elite to come to such conclusions)

u/SW_MarsColonist · 4 pointsr/gardening

> Gaia's Garden

First search result is some woo-woo New-Agey crap site. I think this is what you meant? Looks like a very good book. May have to pick it up.

u/AfroTriffid · 4 pointsr/GardenWild

Sorry I have to plug an amazing book about the soil food web that can put a lot of perspective on how to improve the nutrition cycle efficiency.

It's called "Teaming with Microbes" and is an absolute trove of knowledge.
https://www.amazon.com/Teaming-Microbes-Organic-Gardeners-Revised/dp/1604691131/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=teaming+with+microbes&qid=1573491535&sprefix=teaming+with+mi&sr=8-2

The same author also has one called "Teaming with Nutrients" which I haven't read yet but that I believe is just as good based on a user I was chatting to in the permaculture sub a year or so ago.

u/trying_to_adult_here · 4 pointsr/AskVet

Since you have trazadone I'm going to assume you have already talked to your veterinarian about your dog's anxiety. If that is not the case, please discuss it with your vet.

The behaviorists are pricy, but they're an excellent resource and worth the money. I'd definitely stick with either a Veterinary Behaviorist or an Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist over a regular trainer, anybody can call themselves a trainer while CAABs and VBs have tons of education and experience. They can tailor advice to your specific dog and your specific household in a way a book or video cannot.

I am by no means an expert (I'm a vet tech at a general-practice clinic) but my go-to recommendations for behavior books are Decoding Your Dog by the American College of Veterinary behaviorists, (it has a chapter on house training and a chapter on separation anxiety) and The Other End of the Leash (it's about understanding dogs and how they think rather than specific issues) by Patricia McConnell. Patricia McConnell also has books (booklets? they're short) about anxiety and separation anxiety. I've never read the booklets, but she's a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist with a Ph.D, so they're probably a better resource than random internet sites even if they're not as helpful as an in-person consultation with a behaviorist.

u/shaylenn · 3 pointsr/aussies

Rescues test to see if their dogs get along with cats. Don't rule out a not-puppy just for that. Also, getting a dog just a year or so, you get to skip the crazy-chew-everything phase.

And take up running if you can. Aussies like an hour or more of real exercise each day, so a half an hour run, then serious fetch for another half hour. Start thinking of your schedule with an hour less a day. That time will be joyful and fun and happy and have you laughing, but it is an adjustment.

And I highly recommend this book: http://www.amazon.com/Art-Raising-Puppy-Revised/dp/0316083275/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1409761176&sr=1-1

u/insomniactive · 3 pointsr/Dogtraining

Meanwhile, I recommend starting w/ the WIKI pages links in the sidebar. Kikopup is great; her training videos are well-explained and to the point. I'm not as familiar w/ the list of training books, but Patricia McConnell's The Other End of the Leash was helpful in explaining behaviors.

Here are some additional training links that might help locate a trainer closer to you: CCPDT, APDT, KPA-CTP.
I'd also check through my vet, dog parks, daycares, for possible training clubs, group classes, or other recommendations.

u/hpekarov · 3 pointsr/dogs
  1. I would baby gate him in a dog/baby proof room. No carpet just in case he has an accident. No pillows or blankets in case he decides those look fun to destroy. Ask the foster family what their normal routine is for leaving him alone in the house.

  2. Will depend on the dog. Mine was minimal because my dog had not interest in chewing things or getting himself in trouble. Some good things to do would be to ensure no access to garbage and recycling. If you have plants make sure he can't knock them over or eat them. You have children so just think about what you did when you baby proofed the home.

  3. Fromm would be a good upgrade from Blue Buffalo. Fromm Gold specifically

  4. I like Lupine Pet Products. I also really like rope style leashes and biothane. Biothane is water proof. I but a lot leashes and collars on Etsy.

  5. I just lock my dog in there over night. However, he sleeps in his crate all day on his own. It is his safe spot. I would never ever stick my arm or hand in there to try and grab him. That is his personal space and I do not violate it. Make sure you teach your kids to always leave your dog alone when he is in his crate. If your dog has a good relationship with his crate he will retreat there to rest and relax on his own. It should always be available to him.

  6. This book and a clicker. Super straight forward and fun. Don't buy too many toys to start. Buy a few different ones and see what your dog likes and that are safe to give him. I would also pick up some bully sticks

  7. Don't overwhelm him with new experiences to start. Don't have visitors over for a couple weeks. Limit his exposure to new things. Take him out for walks but don't bring him to the pet store until you guys can build a relationship together.

  8. I would be careful with hugging, grabbing collar, kissing the dog's head and just being too affection. Humans are primates and dogs are canines and each species has different ways of communicating. Hugging and face-to- face contact is the way to communicate if you are a primate but not if you are canine. It is scary and can be threatening to a dog. Patricia McConnell has a great book on this subject.

  9. Look into the two week shutdown. Do not feel the need to rush him to the dog park or your kids soccer games in an effort to socialize him. He has probably had a lot of changes in his short life so just take it slow. Once he is settled in a month or two look into doing a pet obedience class at a training club. It is a great way to learn more about dogs, get your kids involved in dog training and get your dog out the house for some fun. You will also learn the basics for having a well behaved dog.

  10. I'd take him in a month or two unless the adoption contract requires to take him in sooner.
u/Jourdin · 3 pointsr/Dogtraining

He's not stubborn, he just doesn't know his name well enough to respond to it in an environment that is absolutely rife with distractions. Think of it like a video game. (I don't know you so I don't know if you play video games but it seems like a safe enough analogy, hope it helps.) He's gotten past the tutorial and maybe levels 1-5 by responding to you saying his name in the first two scenarios you mentioned. But when you bring him to the park, even on a long leash, with all of that freedom and those smells and those little animals to chase, it's like bumping it up from level 5 to level 20. You can't just jump levels if you've never played the game before, you have to work up to it so you get better with practice and experience.

Same with dog training. You always want to set a dog up for success by taking baby steps. Now that he comes when called in the house, take it to a familiar outdoor place like your yard. Once he's gotten that down, try somewhere new indoors, e.g. take him to Petco or somewhere and work on him looking at you when you say his name (obviously you may not be able to let him off leash to come all the way to you in most stores). Then add in more distractions slowly and one at a time. Eventually you will build up to him knowing to respond to his name even if he's absolutely surrounded by squirrels and dogs and stinky things to smell.

Keep in mind this dog has only been with you for five months. He is probably still getting to know you and has just finally adjusted to your lifestyle and schedule. Anecdotally, I have heard that some rescue dogs end up always having problems with recall, and some even chronically run away because they can't seem to adjust to a stable lifestyle. This hopefully won't be the case for you if you keep working with him but as you do work with him just acknowledge that his life before being with you may have been tumultuous, and he has probably had little to no training. You are learning together.

Do him a favor and throw the idea of him being "not in the mood" to listen out the window. Likely he is just distracted or does not know what you're asking because you have challenged him too much too fast.

It sounds like you are doing the right things. Just keep working with him daily like you say you are (and for that, good job) and be patient. For an adopted dog, 5 months is really not a very long time to wait before jumping to a shock collar. Also, your boy is a pit, which means he is a terrier in a fucking mid-weight wrestler's body. He's got the drive and energy of a dog that was bred to hunt rats in a body that can do ten times as much damage. He is going to be easily distracted and highly energetic. This does not mean he is being headstrong and disobedient. Dogs are not willful and do not have morals. He just needs your guidance and continued training, so keep it up.

Recommended reads: The Culture Clash by Jean Donaldson and The Other End of the Leash by Patricia McConnell. Also, anything by the late Dr. Sophia Yin, who recently passed but in her lifetime made incredible contributions in the field of veterinary behavior, most of which are easily accessible to average pet owners like us.

u/jwallwalrus26 · 3 pointsr/shiba

Here are my favorite positive training book

The Other end of the Leash: this one is a really fantastic book on understanding dogs, dog behavior, interacting with them, building a relationship with respect versus dominance. Anything by Patricia B. McConnell is going to be solid advice and techniques.

101 Dog Tricks - just gives a really good guidelines on luring your dog into tricks versus forcing them, plus a lot of good tricks that help with mental stimulation.

Play with Your Dog: Just another really good book on good training, playing, and positive relationship building.

Ahimsa Training manual: This is the training manual from one of the best training facilities in Seattle. There are really good positive trainers.

BAT Book: Behavior Adjustment Training by Grisha Stewart: This book was a life saver for me. Shibas are prone to being really reactive and sometimes have issues with aggression and predatory drift issues, and this book really digs deep into understanding your dog and helping them make the right choices and building them up for success. I personally don't think you need to have an aggressive/reactive dog to get a lot of good info from this book.

Anything by Cesar Milan will NOT be positive training methods. He very much does not follow that philosophy. Positive training techniques do not use force, aversion, do not believe in alpha dominance theory, no physical punishment. It is a give and take type of relationship. Cesar Milan style tends to not do well with primitive breeds especially the Japanese dog breeds.

u/CountingSatellites · 3 pointsr/reactivedogs

Tricky situation- dealing with a dog fearful of people when you aren’t currently able to use treats. Have you tried really high value soft foods like small pieces of boils shredded chicken or tiny pieces of cut up hot dog? If you can find something that he likes, you may want to try having people just ignore him for the most part while tossing treats in his direction while he’s mostly calm. Toss them a little behind him so he doesn’t have to approach. The idea is to get him to associate people with good things.

Also, try to be very mindful of your body language around him, and direct others to do the same. No staring or direct eye contact that signals a threat or aggression. Approach from the side, not straight on, use look-aways, slow blinks, etc to communicate a relaxed friendly attitude. There are some great resources on the web and YouTube about dog communication.

Also, you may find the book The Other End of the Leash by Patricia McConnell to be an insightful read.

u/littlealbatross · 3 pointsr/Pets

Agreed with you about Milan. I was fond of Patrica McConnell (author of the similarly-titled The Other End of the Leash ). She is an animal behaviorist with something like 2 decades of experience, and I found her books easy to read and quite useful with my fearful dog.

u/maedae · 3 pointsr/botany

Have you read The Botany of Desire? I absolutely loved it.

u/Plumerian · 3 pointsr/Psychonaut

Michael Pollan wrote a fascinating book from the "Plant's View" of the world, and how it influences us in ways we usually don't give it credit for. 200 bits /u/changetip

u/jmk816 · 3 pointsr/suggestmeabook

Fordlandia: The Rise and Fall of Henry Ford's Forgotten Jungle City is an amazing book. The main point is about Ford trying to create a company town in Brazil in order to grow rubber. But the books gives you a great picture of Ford the man, the company, what the era was like and the larger philosophical and economic ideas behind this project. Honestly, for me it read like fiction- I couldn't put it down.

They Marched Into Sunlight: War and Peace Vietnam and America October 1967 looks at the Vietnam war from three different perspectives, from students protesting, to the actual front and then from the government officials. The narrative is amazing and it's so well researched that it was captivating as well, but I think he really captured the feeling of the times as well, which is so great to see in a book.

Michael Pollan is know most for Omnivore's Dilemma (which is a great read) but I really love his first book too, and that doesn't get as much attention, which is still very interesting is The Botany of Desire. He goes through the history of 4 different plants, apples, tulips, marijuana, and potatoes. Not too interesting on the surface, but he makes the stories fascinating. It's a great in its overarching nature about our relationships with plants.

[Marriage: A History by Stephanie Coontz] (http://www.amazon.com/Marriage-History-How-Love-Conquered/dp/014303667X) is another one I always recommend. It is an expansive work showing that the idea of Marriage has been in flux since the beginning and completely depended on the culture and time period. It's well researched but also a compelling work.

u/Afaflix · 3 pointsr/homestead

if you grow an apple tree from a seed the chance of having edible fruit is ridiculously small. And if you actually end up with one, you can name it, sell grafts from it and become quite wealthy off of it.
For example, every Granny Smith Apple is descended from one particular tree in Australia somewhere. But if you take the seeds from that apple, it's offspring will have nothing in common with it.

Source: The Botany of Desire: A Plant's-Eye View of the World

u/droit_de_strangleur · 3 pointsr/AskReddit

The Tulip by Anna Pavord and The Botany of Desire by Michael Pollan both give excellent descriptions of 'Tulipomania' in Holland in the 1700s.

u/humblerodent · 3 pointsr/askscience

> It's not necessary to keep fruits appealing to wild animals if we are spreading and planting them ourselves.

This is more or less the premise of the excellent book, The Botany of Desire by Michael Pollan. It describes four different plants, and how they have "used" humans to become some of the most prolific species in the world.

u/LordGothington · 3 pointsr/sailing

https://www.animatedknots.com/boating-knots

​

In addition to showing how to tie the knots, there is a lot of information about when and when not to use each knot.

​

And, unlike The Ashley Book of Knots, there is a reasonable number of knots.

​

Animated Knots would suggest that the halyard hitch might be what you are looking for,

​

https://www.animatedknots.com/halyard-hitch-knot

u/oishishou · 3 pointsr/sailing

I like that mug! Great handle.

I didn't include a link to the book because there are so many re-printings. I've got a nice hardcover that also could make a good coffee table book. This is it. Had to go find it, again.

u/spbink · 3 pointsr/harrypotter

I really really love crocheting. Knitting I could take or leave.

I'd say generally if you're more interested in things like dolls and toys, learn crochet and if you're more interested in clothes and scarves, learn knitting. You can do both with either but I think crochet has a strength in shaping things and knitting has a strength in a smooth look which makes clothing decorations like cables look better.

If you do decide on knitting, I highly recommend the book Stitch n Bitch to get you started. It's really clear and has some nice beginners patterns. https://www.amazon.com/Stitch-n-Bitch-Knitters-Handbook/dp/0761128182

u/tricksy_trixie · 3 pointsr/knitting

This is when it's helpful to knit with other people - while it's definitely possible to teach yourself how to knit on your own, it's way easier if you have a person that can actually show you what to do! I taught myself to knit using YouTube videos and books. For books, this is one that I know some people like. This book is also a popular option. The website www.knittinghelp.com has a lot of good videos for basics.

u/ProvidenceMojo · 3 pointsr/knitting

There’s a great illusion scarf pattern in the beginner’s knitting book Stitch and Bitch. It was one of my first successful knits — highly recommend!

https://www.amazon.com/Stitch-n-Bitch-Knitters-Handbook/dp/0761128182

u/fatpinkchicken · 3 pointsr/knitting

http://www.amazon.com/Stitch-Bitch-The-Knitters-Handbook/dp/0761128182

That was the beginner book I was given and it was very helpful and fun.

u/gogogogogg · 3 pointsr/knitting

Also, try your local library for knitting books. (Mine is excellent.) Videos normally concentrate on one topic, without much talking around the topic. Books develop stage by stage, and have time to tell you why things are done that way and what alternatives you could use -- making it much easier to learn to do your own thing.

Libraries (or bookshops) let you compare books to see which style you like. These two are often recommended: Teach yourself Visually Knitting and the Stitch 'n Bitch Knitter's Handbook. These two also seem good: Debbie Bliss Knitter's Book of Knowledge and Knitting in Plain English.

u/sleepytotoro · 3 pointsr/knitting

I started with the book Stitch n Bitch which is a great intro. I soon realized that I don't learn well from diagrams, so I would watch Youtube videos while reading. The first thing I knit was a garter stitch scarf from that book.

Then I joined Ravelry. Ravelry is like an entire Reddit just for knitting/crocheting, with every resource you could want. There are thousands of great free patterns. It was overwhelming to me at first, so I picked the most popular easy patterns, like the Honey Cowl and Barley Hat.

Happy knitting :)

u/I_Have_Just_ · 3 pointsr/tarantulas

First of all:

Check out the Tarantula Keepers Guide. It will give you the basic / advanced information you will need. Things like what to expect from a molting tarantula.

Please take the time to read it, as keeping a tarantula healthy and happy is very different from that of more traditional pets.

Now:

What are you concerned about? Your post is pretty vague.

>when I came home she looked like that

the photo shows a tarantula, nice colors, but nothing out of the ordinary?

>there was a patch of hair on the bottom of the molt

When tarantulas molt, the exuvia (cast off outer shell) has hair bristles on it, just like the tarantula did. They grow new bristles under their exo before they molt. The abdomen is the only part which is not "hardened" so that as they eat they can have their abdomen grow larger. The exuvia is literally their hard outer shell, so it makes sense that the old abdomen will be skin-like. Think about a balloon when you blow it up with air. The balloon "skin" expands to make room for the new stuff inside (air) much like a tarantulas abdomen will. When all the air is let out, the balloon looks all shriveled up. That's why the old abdomen may look like a shriveled ball of hair.

I hope this helps. And please please please do your research BEFORE buying a pet. Animals have feelings too.

u/retrogradeworks · 3 pointsr/tarantulas

That pet store, frankly, is full of shit. As are the majority of pet stores that carry tarantulas. They've given you a lot of misinformation regarding this tarantula. They need a shallow water dish, one this size would be fine with a gatorade lid sized dish. Not only will they drink from it, it provides atmospheric humidity.

What you need to do is get a good book on keeping tarantulas: http://www.amazon.com/The-Tarantula-Keepers-Guide-Comprehensive/dp/0764138855/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394418312&sr=8-1&keywords=tarantula+keepers+guide This one may as well be the Tarantula Keeper's Bible. It's good, informative, and most of all RELIABLE information that you absolutely need to keep your tarantula healthy. If you don't want to buy a book, check out the information available for Grammostola rosea (the species it appears you have) on arachnoboards.com.

On another note, this is a community of (mostly) experienced collectors offering advice to help you correct the mistakes being made with this tarantula. It's ok to be inexperienced, but this animal is already in your care, you're responsible for its life. Please consider taking some of this advice as soon as possible. If you continue to abide by the crap the pet store told you, this T is going to die :/.

u/CakeLore · 3 pointsr/tarantulas

You should leave her alone for at least a day or so. If she hasn't tried to eat the molt by then it's safe to take it. Just make sure you don't try to handle or feed her for at lease a couple weeks (her fangs will turn black when she's fully hardened). Also I'd recommend buying this book http://www.amazon.com/The-Tarantula-Keepers-Guide-Comprehensive/dp/0764138855/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398715950&sr=8-1&keywords=tarantula+keeper%27s+guide if you don't have it. It's the most concise and complete source of tarantula husbandry and information I've found.

u/Captain_Hammertoe · 3 pointsr/tarantulas

The best advice anyone can give you is to get a copy of The Tarantula Keeper's Guide. IMHO nobody who keeps tarantulas should be without it.

u/halcyonights · 3 pointsr/tarantulas

Pretty much everything you asked is covered in here:

http://www.amazon.com/Tarantula-Keepers-Guide-Comprehensive-Information/dp/0764138855

There are some errors in this book but it's accurate enough to start off.

As far as cost, the bulk of the cost will be the spider itself. Substrate isn't too expensive, tanks aren't too expensive, and the decor is up to you if you want to spend a lot or a little. I started off with a G. pulchra 10 years ago that ran me around $130. They go for much less than that now. Consider yourself lucky...

Check out KenTheBugGuy or Jamie's Tarantulas if you wanna order online.

Also join arachnoboards if you haven't already.

u/nuclearfeet · 3 pointsr/tarantulas

Welcome! First of all, check the sidebar. There's a ton of information.

I highly recommend getting a copy of The Tarantula Keeper's Guide. That alone will answer pretty much all your questions.

http://www.amazon.com/Tarantula-Keepers-Guide-Comprehensive-Information/dp/0764138855

u/kflipz · 3 pointsr/tarantulas

You should check out this book if you don't own it, they stress the impressive ability of tarantulas to escape on every other page. Sounds like you learned your lesson though, we all make mistakes. I'm glad you found her safely :)

u/Scuttlebuttz93 · 3 pointsr/spiderbro

For a comprehensive guide on rose hair tarantula keeping that isn't bullshit consult this webpage. There's also www.arachnoboards.com and /r/tarantulas if you have any questions, and I'd highly recommend picking up The Tarantula Keeper's Guide which like that webpage was written by Stan Schultz who can pretty accurately be called the tarantula Jesus. It's a good read and very thorough too. Be warned though, it's hard to keep just one tarantula!

u/Darkbyte · 3 pointsr/tarantulas

Don't take this the wrong way OP, but you need to do more research on your (presumably new) fuzzy friend. I reccommend you pick up the Tarantula Keeper's Guide, it's a very good resource for almost anything you'd want to know about tarantulas.

u/captmonkey · 3 pointsr/spiders

There's some good advice in this thread, but if you're interested in learning more, I'd point you to the most excellent Tarantula Keeper's Guide . It has the answer to pretty much any question you can imagine and more. It's a favorite among people in the hobby.

u/captainkrypto · 3 pointsr/Dogtraining

I have a very similar story with my American Bulldog. I got her at 9 months and she was very friendly with other dogs until I took her to another friends house with an aggressive boxer that kept trying to jump on her back and bite her neck. She hasn't really been the same since. She isn't aggressive towards other dogs, but rather fearful of other dogs which leads to nervousness when other dogs approach... which will eventually lead to lashing out at them if they get too close. I took her to a trainer who specialized in aggressive dogs... he didn't really tell me much except for the obvious(and charged me $150!).

So, I took it upon myself and read up a lot on the subject. I have been slowly getting her more comfortable being around other dogs. I would recommend reading Calming Signals first so you will at least know a little more about what your dog and other dogs' body language is saying.

I started by walking her a few times a week with another very calm and very polite dog (I think the right walking partner dog is very important). After a while she became very comfortable around the other dog and even became excited (the happy kind) when she would see him walking up. Eventually, they were able to be off leash in a backyard (I wouldn't recommend your own back yard initially as different territorial issues might arise). I also bring along her favorite treats on all our walks to 1) Reward her for good behavior and 2) to determine her level of nervousness (i.e. she refuses the treat = very nervous, she takes the treat but spits it out = somewhat nervous, takes the treat and eats it = calm).

Good luck.

u/BinaryCrunch · 3 pointsr/tarantulas

Most T's will tolerate the average room temp, you never need an exact temperature. No heat mats, no matter what you're thinking don't get one and don't use that light either. I feed most of my adults 2 crickets twice a week although they would happily eat more than that. The substrate is important, I tend to mix the coco fibre with a more soil like stuff designed for T's. If its a T that likes it moist then its just the soil stuff and no coco but as yours is a desert dweller dryer is probably better. The temps I can see say 24C - 27C and 65-70 on the humidity so a weekly overflow of the water bowl and just a nice room temp should be fine. Also, this book https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/0764138855/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 is the best book you will own

u/MeiTaka · 3 pointsr/tarantulas

Yes :) I haven't owned mine for long but I've owned regular spiders before. Tarantulas are much more fun though. A really great book is The Tarantula Keeper's Guide. I just got mine in and it has everything you could ever want to know plus lots of nice pictures. I shouldn't have waited as long as I did to get it. A good way to get over your fear is just to slowly expose yourself to it. Watching forums is great beginning step. And you can feed wild spiders too! Just throw a bug in their web or place it with some tweezers and watch the fun! And learning about them helps a great deal too. I wish more people were willing to give them a chance.

u/pedanticist · 3 pointsr/IAmA

Kudos on studying mycology, do you intend to get a degree? Chanterelles are steady awesomeness. But Macrolepiota procera is some tasty meat...as are M. americana and M. rachodes. Mmmmm. Did you find them in the woods, or in an urban habitat? Also, what species of chanterelle did you eat?

Sooo, uhm.

  • There is no accurate detailed mushroom identification guide for the semi-experienced. As a semi-experienced mushroomer, you should be able to garner information from as many sources as possible, including mycologically astute members of your community, local mycological societies, various field guides and keys, and of course, the interwebs. The internet is an awesome place for ID fun. Mushrooms Demystified is the standard, though.

  • Restaurants are sometimes hard to crack. Find your local dining out guides and try to get a sense of the menus. Look for folks who specialize in "local" and "slow" foods. Stay away from corporate stuff. Often the only option is walking in with mushrooms. Phone calls usually fail. You must persevere and be tough.

  • Yes, there are. So many. Many members of the genus Russula are some of the tastiest mushrooms out. All of the edible members of the Boletaceae that I have sampled have been awesome. Several Lactarius mushrooms are notable. Hmmm. This is a big topic... I've eaten some 200 species of mushrooms.

  • This is an open ended question that could break me. Like a buffer overflow. I see bears. I fall down. My vehicle leaves me stranded. It hails. I find too many mushrooms. I encounter people i know in the middle of nowhere. Get hassled in the forest by the feds. I find stuff - flint-making equipment, a hatchet, laptop memory, abandoned camps... old bottles, the legacy of timber harvest, trash of all origins. I'll come back with a nice story, right now I've gotta go deliver 7 lbs of chanterelles to a local restaurant.
u/Codebender · 3 pointsr/dataisbeautiful

Far too simple. I use Mushrooms Demystified by David Arora, it's basically a 500 page flowchart for figuring out what species you're looking at.

u/echinops · 3 pointsr/EasternOregon
u/infodoc1 · 3 pointsr/mycology

All That the Rain Promises and More by David Arora. Fantastic guide with a lot of information on edibility. Also highly recommended is its companion guide by the same author, Mushrooms Demystified

u/KidDarkness · 3 pointsr/AskCulinary

I've been getting a lot of information from foraging accounts on Instagram. The folks there can be really helpful. (I wrote a post on my blog about getting into foraging here with some resources and Instagrammers listed at the bottom.)

Also, check out Mushrooms Demystefied. Great book. I got it for myself when I wanted to get started.

u/lencioni · 3 pointsr/mycology

If you are planning on eating wild mushrooms, I really recommend using more than one guide to identify. Get at least a good general guide, like Mushrooms Demystified, and then a more regional guide. I live in Minnesota and just got Mushrooms and Other Fungi of the Midcontinental United States. Both of these have information on spore prints.

u/corgonin · 3 pointsr/pics

It was $35.95, compared to amazon's $26.37

u/simuove · 3 pointsr/woodworking

You may want to consider this book.

u/thiswastillavailable · 3 pointsr/guns

> wood type

This should help.

u/dreamreclamation · 3 pointsr/woodworking

Regardless of whether you take an apprenticeship or attend a college program, I would highly recommend expanding your knowledge on woodworking. There are five basic books I could not have survived without.

"Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking" by Tage Frid - This is for a box set of Tage Frid's three books. I bought them separate, but one link was easier than three links. You can buy these off of Amazon or eBay for quite cheap if you're a smart shopper.

"Understanding Wood: A Craftsman's Guide to Wood Technology" by R. Bruce Hoadley Edit: Recommended for a better understanding of the materials you're working with.

"Identifying Wood: Accurate Results With Simple Tools" by R. Bruce Hoadley Edit: Recommended because as a carpenter or woodworker, you should be able to identify most common wood types.

If you're just beginning and don't want to spend the $100ish it would cost for all of these, start with Tage's first book. "Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking: Joinery: Tools and Techniques". It will teach A LOT about design and wood in general, which will help you when applying for apprenticeships and/or carpentry/cabinet-making school.

It should be noted, these are textbooks for the most part and as such, read like one. If you're fresh out of high school, it should be easy to resume an old studying routine; if not, I suggest coffee, a chair that's comfortable and a notebook for note-taking. Seriously.

u/goatsickle · 3 pointsr/dogs

For starters, buy this book: https://www.amazon.com/Perfect-Puppy-Days-Start-Right/dp/0964151871

Then, after reading that, buy this book: https://www.amazon.com/How-Behave-Your-Dog-Behaves/dp/0793806445

Don't take the puppy before it is 8 weeks old. The day after you get the puppy, bring it to the vet for first exam and to make sure it gets up to date on dewormings and vaccines. Talk to vet about when to neuter (studies are showing these days that large dogs should wait for 18 months) and if they can do a gastropexy at the time of that surgery (google it if you don't know what that is). Listen to your vet about medical stuff, not your neighbor.

u/emmyjayy · 3 pointsr/Dogtraining

Since you only brought her home today, I wouldn't judge her ability to understand where to potty quite yet. I definitely don't think she has a psychological problem. She's in a brand new home with brand new people and has absolutely no clue what's happening to her. Even dogs that were previously perfectly house trained for years tend to have accidents in the house after being in a shelter or rehomed. With a little decompression time, you'll be surprised at how much more of her personality you discover.

Since she's new to your home, you're going to want to introduce her to your home by slowly increasing her access to your space. Dogs won't potty in what they think is their home/hangout spot. You can start with a crate and work outwards. Whenever she isn't crated, having her tethered to you or closely monitored while tethered to furniture is a great start, too.

I'll link a couple of Zak George videos, too. It's way easier to explain techniques through video links. He's got great positive training tips, especially for dogs that are essentially blank slates. If you want to delve deeper, I'd read How to Behave So Your Dog Behaves or The Perfect Puppy in 7 Days, both by Sophia Yin.

Zak George on House Training

Zak George on Crate Training

Good luck! Congratulations on your new addition!

u/rhinofuntime · 3 pointsr/dogs

Thank you all for your replies again. I really enjoyed the TED Talk you linked to- this guy is really funny and really makes a good point on how ridiculous the way people typically train dogs can be!

This is the book I ended up getting to start off with BTW

u/NotTheMuffins · 3 pointsr/Dogtraining

Try reading this Sophia Yin book. I have a decently high-energy dachshund and my interactions with her have improved after reading this. The concept of "please" changed a lot. Instead of my puppy jumping and crying and wreaking havoc for play and attention, now she sits quietly and looks at me, saying "please." Once she is calm, we will play tug or fetch.


Don't worry, the book is really short. I got through it sporadically in an afternoon.


Also: http://info.drsophiayin.com/the-learn-to-earn-program-poster/

u/backgammon_no · 3 pointsr/gadgets

Thanks, I just ordered her book. It has a recommendation from Robert Wetzel, which is huge: he's probably the most famous limnologist (lake scientist) ever. He wrote the textbook Limnology, which is regarded by everybody in the field as the definitive work on the topic. He has no competition.

u/Samad99 · 3 pointsr/PlantedTank

Sorry to say, carbon isn't your answer. Here's a good article: https://m.liveaquaria.com/article/60/?aid=60

If you don't already have it, this book is the "bible" of planted aquariums and is worth purchasing. I've read it and can say no amount of internet research can substitute actually reading this book: https://www.amazon.com/dp/0967377366/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0ihFAb27M6F9Q

u/Camallanus · 3 pointsr/Aquariums

Possibly "Ecology of the Planted Aquarium" by Diana Walstad?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/0967377366/

u/the_woot_shoot · 3 pointsr/PlantedTank

Read up on the Walstad Method

If your serious about it I recommend picking up her book as well.

The basics would be:

  1. Buy some Miracle Grow Organic Potting Mix, or similar organic soil with no fertilizers added. Put down 1 inch base layer.

  2. Get some aquarium gravel(preferably not sand, or large stones), and cap the soil with 1 inch of the gravel.

  3. Heavily plant the tank with low light plants, and some floating plants as well to help prevent algae growth, however you may not have a problem depending on how much light it will actually get.

  4. Enjoy having to do minimal water changes and no real need for a filter assuming you follow the method properly and have enough plants in the tank.
u/enginerd28 · 3 pointsr/PlantedTank

I'm two weeks into my new Walstad. Some notes from my experience and reading the book recently.

  • Your soil should be fine without clay added.
  • Wash the soil and sift out large and floating debris. Soak it for a week or so and do water changes. This will help your water quality and chemistry down the road.
  • You don't need a filter but a bubbler or sobering to agitate the surface will keep the bioslime pond scum from building up. I'm using a canister filter throttled back just to push water around for equal temperature and agitate.
  • I want to reserve comment on the light until I get the book in front of me again.


    Edit: Learn from my experience

    When it comes time to plant. Put the dirt in, put about 6" of water in, put the plants in, then cap it with sand/2-4mm gravel. Then carefully put the rest of the water in. Capping it before you plant gets...messy.

    Lighting: From the book. 1-3 Watts/gal for a CFL. Temperature between 5,000-7,000 K. Grab a lamp timer (plenty available now that Christmas is over in the US) and set it to a 5hr-4hr-5hr-10hr on/off/on/off cycle. The 14 hour day will promote significantly more plant growth than a 8-10 hour day. I googled 6500K CFL and Home Depot was one of the first hits. According to the note above, 60W should work great. If you have an LFS that has the same plants as you, I recommend talking to them and seeing how they light their plants. You can adjust the height of the lamp above the tank to adjust the intensity. Generally though, it's tough to do too much light without spending a lot of money.
u/Always_Daria · 3 pointsr/PlantedTank

For the fertilizer doses, I'm not really an expert, but you should get some good ideas from the Tom Barr website...his website is actually a lot more technically helpful than reddit on some of the more scientific aspects of planted tanks.

You can be much more precise measuring your fertilizers (and its cheaper) to buy dry ferts. I like to buy mine from greenleafaquariums.com

Your substrate choice will affect your experiment as far as fertilizing. Some, like organic potting soil, or aquasoil, will contain fertilizers. Some, like sand, are completely inert. It may make your life easier to measure the effects of fertilizer dosing with an inert substrate. Or have a sand as a control tank or something. Some of the special planted tank aquarium substrates don't contain nutrition themselves, (like fluorite, etc) but they bind them easily, and store them for plant use. Again, not sure if that would affect your experiment or not.

You'll need to make sure you take your lighting into account as well. That will affect your plant growth rate a lot.

Fast growing and minimal maintenance can include water sprite, water wisteria, amazon swords, dwarf lilly.

Edit: http://www.amazon.com/Ecology-Planted-Aquarium-Diana-Walstad/dp/0967377366/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422486719&sr=8-1&keywords=planted+aquarium+books&pebp=1422486721098&peasin=967377366

Amazing resource for you to cite for any paper you have to write.

u/pseud0nym · 3 pointsr/Aquariums

I am going to suggest a book for you. Most of the folks on here do something called a NPT (Naturally Planted Tank) or Walstad tank. Lots of plants and garden soil or organic potting soil as the substrate capped with Flourite substrate. That makes keeping plants much easier. I would recommend a book to you: Diana Walstad: The Ecology of the Planted Aquarium. That should help you out greatly when it comes to getting your tank up and running.

Some cavets. Even she has backed down on saying that you can immediately add in fish. Still wait for your tank to cycle and do a fishless cycle to get it started. You can put plants in right away and they will help complete the cycle quicker. Also, when they say heavily planted, they mean HEAVILY planted with very little space.

I do more of a true Walstad than most. 20G with 3" of substrate (1.5 of potting soil and 1.5 of flourite cap)and very thickly planted. A true Walstad wouldn't use a filter and would just use a pump, but I like having my Marineland 360 canister. I just have ceramic filters in there, no sponges or anything like that however. I HIGHLY recommend canister filters over HoB (Hang on Back) units. Totally silent and they provide great flow. I have a sprinkler bar so I get nice even flow around the tank. Water movement is very important.

You will want good lights. Don't cheap out and expect to pay something for them. I would say go LED as they are by far cheaper in the long run. T5 after that but remember you have to replace T5 bulbs.

Hope that helps. The sidebar is useful, as are sites like this. Try to ask specific questions and you will get better answers. You will need to get testing kits. The API ones are okay for a simple freshwater planted aquarium. Start with Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate and PH. Test your tap water first to get base values. If you have Ammonia or Nitrate in your tap water, you will want to invest in a RODI system and additives to put minerals back in it. Ask your LFS about those.

I hope that helps!

u/RuskiesInTheWarRoom · 3 pointsr/dogs

This book, Mine!, is about the only thing that we found that helped us outside of meeting with a behaviorist (which was also very helpful).

It certainly is something that can be dealt with.

u/norberthp · 3 pointsr/dogs

Yes, that's resource guarding.

This book might be helpful. This going to be something you want to start working with immediately so it doesn't progress any further.

u/freemoney83 · 3 pointsr/germanshepherds

Its very easy. Your BEST bet would to be to hire a behaviorist. Other wise the book Mine! is a good book and there is lots of info on the internet.

u/263248 · 3 pointsr/Dogtraining

He's resource guarding technically, so look for specific things about that. This book is highly recommended. Seems like he's anxious as well. Good for you for trying to nip it quick.

u/YahtzeeDii · 3 pointsr/Dogtraining

I don't think the water bowl is the issue -- dogs are rarely protective of their water sources and usually don't mind sharing water from the same bowl. I think your cat got too close to your husky's food while she was eating, and she got a little defensive about it. A quick fix is to put water bowls in a different place than food bowls.

Understand that while this behavior is unacceptable by human standards, resource guarding is a very natural behavior for dogs. After all, a predator with no predisposition to defend its resources probably wouldn't last long enough to reproduce in the wild. It's not always preventable, no matter what we do, but there are things we can do to help curb this behavior.

> Her food supply has never been threatened and she's never gone hungry.

Unfortunately, as counter-intuitive as it sounds, the mere virtue of having a constant food supply and never going hungry doesn't prevent resource guarding -- it's simply written in their genetic code.

I recommend getting "Mine!" by Jean Donaldson. It's a quick read that can really help explain what resource guarding is, why it happens, and gives you steps on how to make your dog feel more comfortable with others around her resources.

u/ihavetowalkmyunicorn · 3 pointsr/Calgary

Depending on how old the puppy is and how long they have had him, it's normal. However, that many solid hours of crying / whining etc isn't good and sounds like the pup needs to start training with alone time.

I'd recommend this book - https://www.amazon.ca/Ill-Be-Home-Soon-Separation/dp/1891767054

There's also some good online resources such as

https://www.dogstardaily.com/videos/home-alone-0

Some basic tips for them would be give the pup a good walk or playtime directly before leaving him. Leave him with something to occupy him such as a stuffed king and / or toys. Put music on or leave the TV on low. They also need to build up the alone time, leaving him for 7 hours straight is too much at first.

u/AddChickpeas · 3 pointsr/Dogtraining

I don't have much experience with resource guarding personally, but I've seen Mine! by Jean Donaldson recommenced a bunch of times. It's like 100 pages and is supposed to give a great overview of the issue and how to handle it. You can get the kindle version for like $9.

u/sxzxnnx · 3 pointsr/dogs
u/Volkodavy · 3 pointsr/dogs
u/Saydrah · 3 pointsr/AskReddit

http://www.animalbehavior.org

Animal behaviorist. Call. Now. I could give you lots of advice, but the fact is, for the safety of your dogs, you need to bring in an expert immediately, and for the sake of every other pit owner, too.

You cannot afford to dick around when you have Pits behaving aggressively, because the one Pit who attacks someone or someone's kid or someone's dog often ruins things for every responsible pit owner in the city or county by being the central argument in favor of a pit bull ban. Never mind how many Golden Retrievers did the same thing last week-- the witchhunt for Pits is "in," and if your dogs get out of hand, you're likely to lose them and they're likely to lose their lives.

Also, buy this book: http://www.amazon.com/Mine-Practical-Guide-Resource-Guarding/dp/0970562942

You most likely have two fairly benign resource guarders who will be straightened out with some simple behavior modification. But don't take any chances. Get a professional in ASAP.

u/sir_barks_a_lot · 3 pointsr/greatpyrenees

If you want to understand more about it and are willing to spend time on training, I would suggest this book: https://www.amazon.com/Mine-Practical-Guide-Resource-Guarding/dp/0970562942 It is written for dog behavioralists, but as a fellow Pyr person I have found it very helpful in understanding resource guarding in my own dog. The strategies described in the book have been very helpful to me.

u/TentacleLoveGoddess · 3 pointsr/dogs

Mine! is the one I see most often recommended.

u/fotbr · 3 pointsr/woodworking

Also consider getting (or borrowing) Chris Schwarz's two books on workbenches: The Workbench Design Book and Workbenches: From Design and Theory to Construction and Use

u/anotherisanother · 3 pointsr/woodworking

A few downsides to a trough:

It collects dust and wood shavings and is harder to keep clean, hiding the tools you placed there. The nicer ones have sloped or open sides so shavings can be swept out easily.

Eventually it'll get filled up with your tools, when you really should be working cleaner and putting tools back in their place. This depends on your personality.

Harder to add holdfast holes in the back of your bench, which could be good for things like battens which help with hand planing.

It makes your bench lighter. Yes the other comment said this was a benefit, but it can also be a drawback. Some people like a heavy bench so it has less tendency to move when hand planing or general bashing.

One issue however that is a non issue I think is that you need a solid surface in the back for hammering or doing other operations. I find that you tend to do 99% of work at the front 12 inches of a bench.

For further reading on workbenches, I suggest Chris Schwarz's Workbench book. The blue one.

u/NoCleverNickname · 3 pointsr/woodworking

I second the previous recommendations for Roy Underhill's "Woodwright Shop" (there are 107 full episodes streaming and free!) and Renaissance Woodworker.

Chris Schwarz is another guy worth reading. His book on workbench design is worth a look, especially if you're going to be more hand tool-centric.

u/improbablydrunknlw · 3 pointsr/preppers

The Encyclopedia of Country Living, 40th Anniversary Edition: The Original Manual for Living off the Land & Doing It Yourself


https://www.amazon.ca/dp/1570618402/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_FwHhDbCZ82V3E

u/ice_09 · 3 pointsr/OffGridLiving

This probably isn't exactly what you are looking for, but I did want to give you my three favorites that relate to self-sufficiency and off grid living.

  • The Good Life by Helen and Scott Nearing.
    I really like this book as a sort of "what to expect" instead of "what to do." It chronicles Helen and Scott's decision and life to live a self-sufficient life.

  • The Encyclopedia of Country Living. This is a great resource. It covers EVERYTHING from gardening to raising chickens. It also covers cooking and canning with what you raise. It is primarily a consolidation of 40 years worth of a homesteading magazine.

  • The Foxfire series. This series is quite long and comprehensive. However, it is an attempt to chronicle the oral knowledge of rural Appalachia. Everything is essentially about self-sufficiency (including moonshining), homesteading, and living life "the old way." It is truly a fascinating series and a wealth of knowledge.

    I am not familiar with the books you listed, but I do love the three I mentioned above.
u/SunriseThunderboy · 3 pointsr/CampingandHiking

Is the other SF civilized? Is that where they are setting up? That might determine the things I'd most want to have.

That said, if I could only have one book, it would be The Encyclopedia of Country Living by Carla Emery: http://www.amazon.com/Encyclopedia-Country-Living-40th-Anniversary/dp/1570618402/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451333303&sr=8-1&keywords=the+encyclopedia+of+country+living

It is big, though. But I'd still want it.




u/HaveShieldWillTravel · 3 pointsr/Homesteading

I was asking a similar question not that long ago. One thing I realized is that it's a difficult question to answer. "Homesteading" describes an incredibly diverse range of activities: planting and gardening, livestock, building, repair, assessing land and soil quality, cooking, canning, bee hives... The list goes on and on. I'd recommend a couple of general books to start with, picking up books on each specific topic as you go. Pick one new thing to add to your homestead at whatever pace feels right.

I purchased both of these books based on numerous recommendations. They fit the "general homesteading" label rather well, and I think they're probably a good place to start.

The Self-Sufficient Life and How to Live It by John Seymour

and

The Encyclopedia of Country Living by Carla Emery.

They both cover a broad range of topics with enough depth to get an idea of what is involved with a project, though I'd probably suggest more in-depth material for really diving in to something.

u/willforti · 3 pointsr/trees

This should get you as far as you'll ever want to go

u/permanomad · 3 pointsr/shroomers

Read Paul Stamets book Growing Gourmet and Medicinal Mushrooms, and also The Mushroom Cultivator which details a lot of info on spore storage and culture practises.

Its so easy to get one contam spore into whatever you're doing - ordinary air has so many contam spores in just 1cm^3, its almost impossible to work 100% sterile. But not to worry: the best we can do as cultivators is hold off the inevitable. A good cultivator will do what he or she can to work clean but all the time understands that all grows will ultimately end in contamination - thats just natures way.

The contaminations themselves often sporulate on the surface of cube spores which after finding residence on nutrient media will then 'piggy-back' using the spores which touch each other. The contaminations can often be 50 times smaller, and so can easily rest like a pest on the spores surface. An electron microscopy picture can really show you well what I'm trying to say here. They also reproduce far faster than their larger basidiospore cousins in the cubensis family, so can out compete them for the available resources that you have so kindly provided for them.

Its not that having a lot of spores in a syringe is a bad thing, its just that throughout my experience with cubes I've found that 'less is more' - the more spread out the spores are from each other, the more you can isolate the good strains and culture out the contams. :)

u/stoicsmile · 3 pointsr/mycology

That warm tray looks like it will work just fine for this project.

In the future, I would recommend Pleurotus ostreatus (Blue Oyster) for cooler growing temperatures. It is an oyster, so it is aggressive and easy to grow, and it has a lower optimum temperature for colonization and fruiting.

There is a good book by Paul Stamets called Growing Medicinal and Gourmet Mushrooms. It contains break-downs of the optimum growing conditions of pretty much any kind of mushroom you could think of growing. If you want to continue with indoor growing, it is an incredible resource.

Warning: Stamets is a little crazy.

u/laurenkk · 3 pointsr/SquareFootGardening

All New Square Foot Gardening II: The Revolutionary Way to Grow More in Less Space https://www.amazon.com/dp/1591865484/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0BXJAbCB1CWG0

u/HomeGrownFood · 3 pointsr/preppers

Hi, I ran a garden consulting business for several years and worked with a number of preppers.

The one book you want is called The Square Foot Garden, it allows you to maximize the space you have available. One 4'x4'x6" is capable of pulling out hundreds of pounds of produce if you follow the instructions.

All of this is worthless information unless you start learning gardening in your free time.

There's definitely some community gardens in your area. Either ran by a community college, church group, or gardening group. You need to start volunteering there, or be willing to start your own garden. You can start a high potential Square Foot Garden for about $150.

Everyone's first garden is going to have a lot of failures. It takes a few years of growing to really get the hang of it.

You wouldn't go out and buy an airplane for SHTF without taking some time to learn how to fly it. It would be a disaster if you never started the engine and now you're flipping through a manual trying to learn how to fly. The same is true with gardening. Only practical experience is useful.

u/Booby_Hatch · 3 pointsr/gardening

I have to also recommend the Square Foot Gardening book, mostly for all it has to offer someone who is kind of starting with the basics. Once I read that I then branched off to various web sites, including reddit. MIGardener, while in Michigan and not at all your climate or mine, has tons of videos on youtube that are great for the beginner. If you follow him on Facebook you'll get a notification when he puts up a new video on youtube (though he has enough now you could lose a whole weekend watching them). He also just started selling seeds for $0.99, so if you're looking for an online seller, there you go.
My first garden, a 4' x 4' raised bed, was done strictly according to the Square Foot Gardening (SFG) method. I learned so much that first season about timing, soil, watering, etc., and even had some very successful veggies! My second season didn't go so well but that had nothing to do with what I had or hadn't learned. This is my third season and I've started several plants inside, ready to put them into my garden in a month or so. I will still be using all that I learned from my SFG book though I have a better idea of what plants I can crowd more than he recommends. Regardless, the book is still vital reference material for me. I even consulted it Saturday night for some seedling information.
For the existing plants, you might want to google them specifically (ie, 'pruning rosemary' or 'caring for my rosemary bush'). I got a ruled notebook and made one page per veggie/fruit that I was interested in and noted the information I found that was specifically important to me. The other stuff just kind of lays dormant in your brain until you get more involved in gardening and then it just pops out when needed! Good luck and enjoy! (I too plant tomatoes though I don't care for them much, unless in pico de gallo. I started 8 different types this season because it's so fun to watch them grow!!)

https://smile.amazon.com/All-Square-Foot-Gardening-Revolutionary/dp/1591865484/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486443200&sr=8-1&keywords=square+foot+gardening

u/jfish26101 · 3 pointsr/gardening

My wife bought square foot gardening and has been getting decent results playing around the last couple years. We’ve had tomatoes, kale, spinach, cucumbers, squash, eggplant...bunch of herbs, micro greens, etc. built 2 3X9 beds from materials purchased at Home Depot and pretty much followed that guys advice.

Edit: She says we are like 7A/6B so should be similar. The only thing that failed was corn because we didn’t have enough space to plant enough to make it work.

u/aymeoh13 · 3 pointsr/Dogtraining

This isn't going to solve your problem immediately and maybe not at all but isn't going to hurt and is worth a try since it's pretty low effort. It sounds like since she's a nervous dog even with you there in some situations that she doesn't know how to calm herself down when she is feeling stressed. My dog has really high anxiety and my behaviorist recommended this and I started to see a difference in about 2 weeks (though he strangely didn't have separation anxiety). Anytime you are home, have a treat bag and clicker handy. Every time she sits or lays down, click and treat. Don't cue her, just every time she does it naturally. You're rewarding her for taking herself to a lower energy state from a higher one and she'll start to do it more naturally. You can do this for any calming behavior (this book is really short and goes over calming signals).

u/SuperShak · 3 pointsr/homestead

If you haven't already, introduce yourself to permaculture. A good start is Gaia's Garden by Toby Hemenway and this video right here by Geoff Lawton.

u/bstpierre777 · 3 pointsr/Permaculture

Toby Hemenway. This book has some discussion of the non-native issue. This video might be the one you're looking for. See also this discussion thread.

u/EdiblesDidmeDirty · 3 pointsr/microgrowery

One Straw Revolution

Teaming with Microbes

Teaming with Nutrients

Master Cho's Lessons

Gaia's Garden

This is a good base into the natural side of things, if that interests you at all.

u/IchBinEinBerliner · 3 pointsr/gardening

Gaia's Garden, and Animal, Vegetable, Miracle are two great ones. Gaia's Garden regards permaculture and making your garden more in touch with what occurs in nature. Animal, Vegetable, Miracle, while it is not a "Gardening" book, is a great read and was what inspired me to start a garden as soon as I moved out of my apartment to the country.

u/TheAlchemyBetweenUs · 3 pointsr/CollapseSupport


>we've got to fight to survive

Absolutely. Giving up is certainly worse. When I first learned of the economic and energy aspects of collapse I thought things would fall apart much sooner than they did. It's almost excruciatingly slow once you see how untenable the trajectory is. The good news is you can take action personally to be less dependant on the failing system and to help others wake up.

If you're looking for some positive ways to prepare, consider Prosper by Martenson and Taggart, this intro to permaculture, this intro to Appropriate Technology, and/or this collapse-aware career book.

Good luck with your upcoming semester. You've come so far, and you'll be glad you finished what you started.

u/gtranbot · 3 pointsr/politics

Successful organic gardening and farming is a question of figuring out how to turn what seem like liabilities into assets. It seems like you have too much sun. Try putting up some shade cloth to block out sun during the most intense parts of the day. Mulch your plants. A lot. Mulch will save you.

Read some books. Eliot Coleman's books are fabulous, and contain a lot of good general information even though the author lives in Maine. I particularly recommend Four Season Harvest. Gaia's Garden is great, and is well suited to someone who owns very little land. Teaming with Microbes is an easy-to-read introduction to bringing your soil to life. And Roots Demystified has some great information about how to best design watering systems for specific plants you're growing. These books all have good pest-fighting information.

You can PM me if you have any questions. Get started!

u/thomas533 · 3 pointsr/Permaculture

Get Gaia's Garden. Read it. Then decide what trees to plant.

u/manwithgills · 3 pointsr/homestead

I would suggest picking up the book Teaming with Microbes. http://www.amazon.com/Teaming-Microbes-Organic-Gardeners-Revised/dp/1604691131

This really gives you a good idea of what living soil is all about. Once you have an idea of how good soil is balanced composting is a lot easier.

u/nickites · 3 pointsr/environment

I would recommend, Teaming with Microbes.
Really a cool book if you're into gardening or just want to understand the soil.

u/joshuau490 · 3 pointsr/farming

Read the book "Teaming with Microbes" it is by far the best book on organic gardening I have ever read. You can get it through Multnomah County library.

Also, hit me up if you want to use my compost tea brewer or need some help with planting/planning/harvesting (I live in SE).

u/moonpurr · 3 pointsr/gardening

Here is the wiki page on heirloom tomatoes.


http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heirloom_tomato


In my experience as a seed saver, if you save seeds from a hybrid you will wind up with a mystery veggie. It could be one of the two parents mixed to create that cultivar. And sometimes even more cultivars are used to crossbreed. So it is almost a guessing game. Heirlooms are old varieties with no cross breeding, so when you plant the seed it comes true to seed. However cross pollination occurs with heirloom seeds too. That is, if you are buying heirloom seed from a non reputable source. Their are distances needed to properly pollinate heirlooms and so much more. The best book I have on the subject is this.


http://www.amazon.com/Seed-Growing-Techniques-Vegetable-Gardeners/dp/1882424581


Seed to seed. It has taught me more than I ever expected! Very helpful resource for saving seeds.


To answer your question in less complicated words. If that seed you saved was from an open pollinated heirloom with no chance of cross pollination it could be a few things. If it is a hybrid we have to guess.

u/ndt · 3 pointsr/Survival

A really good book on seed saving is Seed to Seed. Highly recommended.

The quick answer is keep them cool and dry. Glass is better than plastic (as in mason jars) and you can buy those little dehumidifying packets to toss in there as well. When they are dry, you can freeze most seeds safely where they will last for decades, but you must avoid a repeated freeze thaw cycle. You lose a little every cycle.

Seeds vary greatly in their longevity. Some like onions will lose a great deal of their viability in a single year under less than ideal conditions. Others like the brassicas (colllards, kales, broccoli) can go 5 years with basic care.

u/vtslim · 3 pointsr/botany

Breed your own vegetable varieties

&

Seed to seed

Are the two most important books for what you're looking for.

Have fun, and let me know if you have any questions. If folks want I can start a post about the topic sometime

u/Farty_McFartFart · 3 pointsr/gardening

Apples are this way because the fruit takes the traits of both parents and most orchards use crabapples as the second parent. Other fruits and veggies act the same (squash is one that comes to mind). For these types of plants, in order to get a "pure" seed that isn't cross contaminated, you need to hand pollinate and then tie up the flower to avoid cross contamination. Or you have to separate varieties by as much as 400 feet.

Beans, on the other hand can cross pollinate but it doesn't happen often because pollination happens before the flower opens (since bean flowers are consider perfect, self-pollinators).

There are several books on seed saving and web resources that can tell you what seeds are the easiest to save and harvest and what seeds require more manual intervention. The most popular book on seed saving is Seed to Seed: Seed Saving and Growing Techniques for Vegetable Gardeners, 2nd Edition.

u/Xandrosaurus · 3 pointsr/Dogtraining

Separation anxiety is an over-used term. Patricia McConnell wrote a book on how to diagnose and work on it.

The Manners Minder is a way of reinforcing the dog when you're out of eyesight. It's a little expensive, but it'll help a lot (provided you use it correctly).

At home agility training and/or scent training is a good addition to long walks because it provides mental stimulation as well.

u/lechat89 · 2 pointsr/Dogtraining

It's only his first day so you really have to drop all expectations! This is just part of raising a puppy - since you mention you are a first time owner I recommend doing some reading, perhaps [The Art of Raising a Puppy!] (https://www.amazon.com/Art-Raising-Puppy-Revised/dp/0316083275)

This week I would focus on teaching your new pup his name, brushing him to get him used to it from an early age and also to relax him, and slowly get him used to the crate by giving him treats near the door, giving him treats to walk in (no closing the door), then eventually working up to closing him in. Then work up to being able to leave him in the crate without you in the room. It will definitely take a lot of time and patience, but you can do it! Good luck.

u/consigliere58 · 2 pointsr/orlando

I would recommend that you read The Art of Raising a Puppy by Monks of New Skete before you adopt a puppy. Good luck.

u/davesflyingagain · 2 pointsr/bostonterriers

https://www.amazon.com/Art-Raising-Puppy-Revised/dp/0316083275/ref=nodl_
This book of all the ones we’ve read was the best for us. Understanding that dogs are pack animals and look for their place in the hierarchy

u/thereisonlyoneme · 2 pointsr/dogs

The Art of Raising a Puppy was very helpful for me. It is written by a group of monks in upstate New York that dedicate themselves to raising GSD's. It gives a lot of insight into the mind of dogs including how puppies develop over time. They also give practical training ideas. It is obviously geared toward raising a puppy. I think it would still be useful for an adult dog though the same author may have a title more suited to your situation.

u/TheMechanicalguy · 2 pointsr/aww

Congrats! You brought me back 16 years ago when I brought a GS puppy for my 4 year old son. I read quite a few dog training books. None off them worked well. I then got a copy of this book from my local library.https://www.amazon.com/Art-Raising-Puppy-Revised/dp/0316083275 It's called the "The art of raising a puppy" by the monks of New Skete. It allowed me to get into the mind of my puppy. To make this short, I had a fantastically trained puppy who got even better as he got older. It took me about 15 to 20 minutes a day to train my dog. Find a copy of this book you will not be sorry. As for hair, brush every other day or so collect it and put it in a shoe box outside. Birds will come by and take it all for nests.

u/AmericanAssKicker · 2 pointsr/SALEM

A little off of your question here but have you considered teaching your puppy yourself?

This book, The Art of Raising a Puppy by the Monks of New Skete is quite literally all you need. If you have ever watched Cesar Millan, The Dog Whisperer, you'll quickly see where he gets his technique. If you are getting a smart breed, you'll do even better with the techniques they teach you in this book.

I am very anti places like Petco where they teach your dog to behave strictly for treats. It's that 'get them, get them instant results, send them out the door' business model. They do nothing for you or your dog long-term.

u/Braxhunter · 2 pointsr/GermanShepherd

Read the book, monks of new skete https://www.amazon.ca/Art-Raising-Puppy-Revised/dp/0316083275. A very good read and will provide you with a companion loyal and friendly for their life.

u/Big_Trees · 2 pointsr/pitbulls

Along similar lines I would strongly recommend this book.

u/Asgard_Thunder · 2 pointsr/confession
u/Bulwer · 2 pointsr/aww

Everyone who is getting a puppy should buy their book, The Art of Raising a Puppy.

Seriously, everyone. It's a recipe for friendly, obedient dogs.

u/h-ck · 2 pointsr/Dogtraining

Virtually any dog in the universe can fit the criteria of what you described, but all breeds have their little variations.

For example, my favorite breed is the German Shepherd. And there are German Shepherds that do really well in apartment life, and others that don't. If you go to a breeder for your dog, you're going to want to find a breeder that emphasizes pet quality, safe, sane dogs. The difference between a Labrador from hunting lines and lines bred for therapy and service dog work is night and day. If you go to a shelter to adopt a dog, I would recommend taking a qualified trainer with you that's well-read on selection testing dogs, and most of all, use the resources at your disposal. Talk to the people who run the shelter and/or the rescue. They have the most experience with the dog. They will be able to help you the best.

With the two breeds you mentioned (Golden Retrievers, specifically) keep in mind the shedding issue. Labs shed too, but Golden's are just about as bad as Shepherd's (which are both, very bad.) If you have carpet, be prepared to vacuum everyday. If you intend to let your dog sleep with you on the bed, or chill on the sofa, be ready to clean your furniture daily. Your clothes will be covered in hair if you do not. Your boss will not like you showing up to work wearing your dog.

Also, please, if you haven't already, look into your apartments restrictions for pets and dog breeds, and keep in mind that if you intend on moving, you will be taking your dog with you. I love all breeds of dogs, but apartments do not. Rottweilers, German Shepherd's, Doberman's, Pitbulls (and mixes) come under notorious scrutiny when moving. For your future dogs sake, pick a breed or mixed breed that your landlords are cool with.


Some of my favorite books include:
Dog Training for Dummies which is a very basic introduction to how dogs learn, and explains the different methods available to you in an unbiased manner.

Some of my personal favorite books include:
How To Be Your Dogs Best Friend by the Monks of New Skete.
The Art of Raising A Puppy by the Monks of New Skete
The Divine Canine by the Monks of New Skete

If you haven't already guessed, I'm a huge fan of the Monks of New Skete. The put huge emphasis on calm, structured leadership and positive method obedience that works in real life situations. Plus, they're German Shepherd people. Double points.

Animals in Translation by Temple Grandin.

Dr. Temple Grandin is a high-functioning autistic that teaches at Colorado State University's veterinary science department. I've taken several classes with her, and her understanding of animals is absolutely impossible to challenge. This book is more about genetic theory and science-backed training methods. It's good reading material if you want to know more about animals (she discusses dogs and livestock in detail) but is not a training guide. She also has a lot of technical articles available on her website here.

Inside of a Dog by Alexandra Harowitz. This is a cursory introduction to canine ethology. It is not a guide, but if you want to know about how dogs think (how dogs can "smell time" for example) this is where you start.

How to Speak Dog by Stanley Coren emphasizes communication with dogs, backed in animal biology and evolution.

Canine Body Language: A photographic guide by Brenda Aloff describes in vivid detail what dogs are "saying." It's not a training guide, but will help you understand your dog much better.

Katz on Dogs by Jon Katz, a great common sense training guide to working with dogs in the home, and outdoors.
Soul of a Dog also by Jon Katz, which goes into greater detail on the personal side of working with dogs, with very helpful examples.

Imagine Life With a Well Behaved Dog by Julie Bjelland. Great book on structure and positive method dog training.

Natural Health for Dogs and Cats by Dr. Pitcairn was one of my college textbooks and it's a great start for dog nutrition and chemical-free health care for dogs. This is not a training guide, but nutrition and health are just as important (if not more) than training, so I figured I'd share.


With the exception of the first book on the list, all of these books are fairly detailed. I would highly recommend the Monks of New Skete books before any of the others. But they're all very good.

Additionally, you can read many of the articles on the AKC.org website regarding dog training, and Leerburg has some great comprehensive advice on training the working dog, which can also be applied to training family pets. He also sells a variety of videos and ebooks on the same subject matter.

TL;DR How To Be Your Dogs Best Friend & The Art of Raising A Puppy explain everything you ever need to know about training a dog, ever.

u/super_cheeky · 2 pointsr/nocontextpics

This is probably the same group of monks who wrote this book which I read when I got my first dog. She is four now and it was a great help!

u/batmanismyconstant · 2 pointsr/dogs

After years and years of wanting a dog, I adopted a dog... who promptly turned around and greatly preferred my boyfriend, who is a cat person and generally is ambivalent about dogs. It sucked. After owning him for ~11 months, my dog prefers me now but it was an uphill battle.

Some tips:

  • If feeling loved is important to you, get a friendly, outgoing dog who loves everyone like a lab or a golden. My dog is generally aloof. I know he likes me because when given a choice, he'll follow me around rather than my boyfriend. But he still follows me into a room and lies down in a corner, rather than wanting to be super close to me. He doesn't love being petted, but tolerates it. He will leave after 30 seconds to a minute of petting. It's not because he dislikes me but he doesn't like petting. A typical lab, on the other hand, will lean against you and accept petting forever.
  • Don't get a velcro dog who prefers one person but is aloof to strangers... something like a German Shepherd would fit this. Could the dog pick you as his person? Sure. But he also could pick your SO, which would be a bummer.
  • Read more about dogs. Here's a list of books. The Other End of the Leash would be a good place to start. I thought I knew a TON about dogs before getting one but was definitely wrong. Especially some of your terminology in those post - it doesn't seem to line up with current research and thinking about dogs. Do you know about canine body language like calming signals? Learning more about that will help you bond better with your next dog. Some dogs put up with corrections just fine but you need to learn how to read your dog before you make that decision. My dog, for example, when I said "no" after he walked around the hoop instead of jumping through it, just refused to try again for a while. He's a very sensitive dog and needs a light touch. He's not a very expressive dog, either, but with the help of a more experienced trainer, I learned how to read his subtle signals and stop pushing him too far when he's stressed.
  • Training classes and daily training helped me bond with my dog a LOT. It's the interaction he looks forward to every day and what helped tipped the scale in favor of me over my boyfriend. It works their brain, which keeps them happy, and having a well trained dog will make you happy.

    Even after all of that... your dog might take a long time to come around, and might never be the ideal loyal companion. Mine certainly isn't, but I've found ways to appreciate his personality. It has helped me bond with him a lot more. For months I was comparing him to my ideal dog and it really hurt both of us. I'd say ask a LOT of questions of the foster, vet the rescue organization well, and see if you can have a trial period with the dog. My foster was inexperienced with dogs and read Finn's personality all wrong.
u/sweetcarolina110 · 2 pointsr/childfree

Since this is your first dog I have some recommended reading for you:

The Other End of the Leash and For the Love of a Dog

u/KillerDog · 2 pointsr/Dogtraining

>the nicest person I've been in touch with

Thanks :) You've been pretty reasonable and interesting to talk to also (sometimes thats really hard when you're passionate about something).

So, if anything I've said so far seemed to make sense to you, I'd recommend you get and read a few books that talk about how dogs (and animals in general) "work". They're all fairly cheap, interesting / easy to read, and are written by really qualified animal behaviorists / trainers:

u/reekoman · 2 pointsr/funny

I haven't read that one myself, but I have it in my wishlist. I highly recommend The Other End of the Leash by the same author, though. :)

u/magnoliafly · 2 pointsr/Dogtraining
  • BEFORE You Get Your Puppy (free PDF)

  • AFTER You Get Your Puppy (free PDF)

  • The Other End of the Leash - great book on understanding dog/human relationships and how we differ in communication styles.

    And just to add - different breeds don't really necessitate different training styles. Animals learn the same way, through positive and negative reinforcement and punishment. One breed may learn faster than another and you will have to augment the way you train to prevent them from "training you" per se, but all animals learn the same way scientifically.

    Learning Theory: Positive Reinforcement and Negative Punishment

    The only thing that differs is what the animal considers to be positive reinforcement and negative punishment. A dolphin has a completely different idea of what a reward is from a dog so of course you'll use two different types of reinforcement based on the animal you are training. Every dog has a hierarchical structure for what they find most reinforcing.
u/skeeterbitten · 2 pointsr/AskReddit

Botany of Desire. The title turned me off, but it's actually really interesting and my whole family has read and enjoyed it.

Nothing to Envy: Ordinary lives in North Korea Serious stuff, but so fascinating.

Stumbling on Happiness. Fun read on human nature and happiness.

u/Rusty-Shackleford · 2 pointsr/AskReddit
u/case2000 · 2 pointsr/atheism

Good read on the botanical equiv: The Botany of Desire

u/Onyxnexus · 2 pointsr/suggestmeabook

Sup homie,

Now firstly before I get into the actual books I am going to recommend Dan Carlin's Hardcore History podcast - He's effectively doing audiobooks via podcast these days (I'm actually re-listening to "Prophets of Doom" at the moment, it's about 4 hours 30 minutes of excellent storytelling of historical events) - Really, really recommend that. (you can also buy all the old episodes).


Now onto the History Nonfiction books themselves:



Michael Pollan - The Botany of Desire - While somewhat more of an analysis of how plants have become and evolved according to human cultivation the book does an excellent job of historically breaking down each major event and process involved.



John H. Mayer - Empire of Blue Water: Captain Morgan's Great Pirate Army, the Epic Battle for the Americas, and the Catastrophe That Ended the Outlaws' Bloody Reign - Title says it all. Pirates. Open seas. History. Strong recommend.



Alfred Lansing - Endurance - Shackleton's Incredible Voyage - If you love an amazing story of stoicism, heroism, and amazing leadership then anything about Shackleton should be on your list. This epic tale follows Sir Ernest Shackleton's voyage on the Endurance with the aim to cross the Antarctic - which failed. What happened next throughout the following months is an monument to the incredible spirit of a man, his crew, and the desire to get everyone home.

If you need more try looking into the below:

Niall Ferguson - The War of the World

William L. Shirer The Rise and Fall of the Third Reich A History of Nazi Germany

Andrew Roberts - The Storm of War

Jared Diamond - Guns, Germs, and Steel

Marcus Aurelius - Meditations

u/jeff303 · 2 pointsr/science

You won't regret it. That book literally turned me on to non-fiction (before that I basically only read novels). It already provides a pretty scathing analysis of corn. But if you want even more of that sort of thing check out the author's earlier The Botany of Desire. Now I don't drive past a corn field without giving it an evil glare.

u/IronPatriot049 · 2 pointsr/paracord

https://www.amazon.com/Ashley-Book-Knots-Clifford-W/dp/0385040253/ref=pd_sbs_14_8?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=0385040253&pd_rd_r=e0ab9849-0e7d-4ba9-a032-9a9d01f9ee48&pd_rd_w=DsijS&pd_rd_wg=En3yr&pf_rd_p=1c11b7ff-9ffb-4ba6-8036-be1b0afa79bb&pf_rd_r=PE3RHZF1NQ3W6QAF2VF8&psc=1&refRID=PE3RHZF1NQ3W6QAF2VF8

That one is the holy grail of ropeworking books. I have yet to get my hands on it so I have never seen it but everyone serious about the hobby loves it.

https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Ropecraft-Stuart-Grainger/dp/1574092480/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=creative+ropecraft&qid=1566544712&s=books&sr=1-1

That is the creative ropecraft. The illustrations can be a bit difficult but its a great beginner book.

https://www.amazon.com/Pawsons-Knot-Craft-Rope-Mats/dp/1472922786/ref=pd_bxgy_14_img_2/136-7070516-4175455?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=1472922786&pd_rd_r=2e8898cd-24a4-48de-a09f-b99388849af1&pd_rd_w=rUDOx&pd_rd_wg=zQIMo&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=CTJM8EXWXXN8V6FQH32G&psc=1&refRID=CTJM8EXWXXN8V6FQH32G

This is one of Des Pawson's books. I borrowed it from a friend once, tons of info. I had to give it back though. ><

https://www.amazon.com/Marlinspike-Sailor-Hervey-Garrett-Smith/dp/0070592187/ref=pd_bxgy_14_img_3/136-7070516-4175455?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=0070592187&pd_rd_r=2e8898cd-24a4-48de-a09f-b99388849af1&pd_rd_w=rUDOx&pd_rd_wg=zQIMo&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=CTJM8EXWXXN8V6FQH32G&psc=1&refRID=CTJM8EXWXXN8V6FQH32G

This is a nice cheap book too, I have never seen it myself but it is one that is recommended a lot on various youtube ropecraft channels.

u/Islanduniverse · 2 pointsr/reddit.com

Yeah, the "Boss's Job" one is something I would never buy, and I would encourage people not to. It literally says "Dirty tricks" so there is no question in my mind that there is some unethical shit going on. I am not against all how-to books though, this is the kind of how-to book I can support.

u/CharkBot · 2 pointsr/howto

Yeah, I immediately noticed that with his first bowline. Although subsequent bowlines had the tail on the inside. I was also taught to always have the tail on the inside. However, Animated Knots mentions the alternative with the tail on the outside of the loop and remarks:
>The left handed version performs satisfactorily and withstands ring-tension (a distending force applied either side) better than the standard bowline. However, the tail end is more likely to catch an adjacent rope or spar.

I had missed the sheet bend error. But you are correct. From Animated Knots structure section of the sheet bend article.
>When correctly tied the two tails lie on the same side of the knot. The alternative version - with the tails on opposite sides - is less reliable.

For anyone interested in knots but not familiar with Animated Knots, I highly recomend it. For more in depth one could use the Ashley Book of Knots (ABOK)

u/Corydoras · 2 pointsr/Frugal

>Btw, before knotfags jump my ass, I'm sure this isn't the perfect or most safe way to tie a truckers hitch but wtf it works for simple/small loads.

As a "knotfag" I can assure you that that wasn't even close to a Truckers or Carters hitch.

I'm pretty fucking sure Ashley had something to say about clotheslines.

:)

u/greybeard45 · 2 pointsr/witchcraft

First, learn ordinary knots. The Ashley Book of Knots is the standard reference guide.

When you have learned regular knots you can begin doing magic knots. One handy guide book is Cord Magic: simple spells for beginners to witchcraft by Raven Willow.

​

u/0OKM9IJN8UHB7 · 2 pointsr/madlads

https://www.animatedknots.com/basic-knots

Or if you want to know everything, this book.

u/JackleBee · 2 pointsr/videos

What you posted is not a noose knot. You posted a slip knot.

Source: I'm a knot guy.

Edit: just pulled out my copy of The Ashley Book of Knots. Looks like /u/CaptMerka is correct and I was taught incorrectly. Turns out I am not a knot guy.

u/rusrslythatdumb · 2 pointsr/TheGirlSurvivalGuide

Have you tried knitting? I taught myself with books and YouTube videos about ten years ago. I just finished this a couple days ago! (It looks like this, I made it to take with me to the movie theater in the summer when I'm always cold.) I know it seems like an old lady hobby, but I started when I was 22, and my goes and scarves and sweaters are nicer, warmer, and hold up much longer than the acrylic junk you buy at Target and Walmart.

This book is what finally made it click for me, as well as the site knittinghelp.com. Another excellent resource is [Ravelry] (http://www.ravelry.com) which is like your own online knitting notebook, pattern search, and forums in one. And it's free!

u/missmisfit · 2 pointsr/knitting

I taught myself using this book:http://www.amazon.com/Stitch-Bitch-The-Knitters-Handbook/dp/0761128182

Also some yarn shops will teach you if you purchase your supplies from them, or they may have classes

u/historygirl82 · 2 pointsr/childfree

Check out the Stitch 'n Bitch book - http://www.amazon.com/Stitch-n-Bitch-Knitters-Handbook/dp/0761128182/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464321120&sr=8-1&keywords=stitch+n+bitch
I basically taught myself a few basic types of stitches with this (and a little bit of guidance from my bff, although this is where Youtube can fill in some gaps!). And really, a cheap pair of plastic needles and yarn from somewhere like Michael's won't set you back more than $20-30 tops. It can be an expensive hobby once you really get into it, but it doesn't have to be.

u/Mishiiee · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon
  1. This book, so I can learn how to knit. Because I really need a hobby.
  2. Allegiant is my most wanted e-book right now, I've read the first two in the series, and I would really love to finish the series. :D I wanna know what happens! lol.
  3. If I were a book, I hope that I'd be a great one.
u/legs2yaya · 2 pointsr/knitting

There are some good books out there! I like the Stitch 'n Bitch ones (the patterns are so dated, though) and the Knitter's Companion (I think the illustrations are pretty clear in this one). I found this one called The Knitting Answer Book in a Sam's Club I don't know how long ago. I'm not sure how great it is because I've been able to find answers in the others and online. These books + Youtube are how I taught myself.

u/catsloveyarn · 2 pointsr/knitting

I learned from reading Stitch 'n Bitch. My first projects were dishcloths: Grandmother's Favorite Dishcloth and Andalutheean Dishcloth.

u/Closet_Geek_ · 2 pointsr/knitting

If your wife has a sense of humor, this was my favorite book when I was starting out. Has great illustrations and straight forward patterns. My first sweater was a pattern out of there, and I managed just fine.

u/thymeonmyside · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Oooh! I highly recommend the book Stitch 'n Bitch for knitting. It taught me how to knit and it's awesome and funny!

u/KitKatKnitter · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

I hope so! Going to be a tad iffy on getting the chocolate melted since we've only got a microwave at our disposal, but we'll figure something out.

Ugh. Haven't had any that bad, but had one yesterday because of having to pay an overdue electric bill. Got the money out of the bank fine, but just thinking about having to go over to the one place PPL will do in-store payments through... Forget it. And I'm not big on having to make calls, either, or cold-FB messaging places that I need to if I want to get the interviews set up for the YT channel series I want to do.

Holy balls. Mom's mom had one and used it to make a couple sweaters for her that she still has and wants me to handknit replicas of. If I can get most of the stash either de-stashed or worked up, I need take her up on that.

As for knitting lessons, there's Craftsy, Youtube, and Amazon has a decent selection of books to choose from. I'm partial to either Teach Yourself Visually Knitting or Stitch & Bitch: The Knitter's Handbook by Debbie Stoller. The second has some errata in the patterns from what I've read in the reviews, but I haven't tried knitting the patterns yet.

u/foxish49 · 2 pointsr/waiting_to_try

I don't thinks so, really! There are lots of great books for beginners, the one I learned from is Stitch 'n Bitch, along with help from my dad. The Yarn Harlot is another great resource - I really love everything she writes.

If you know somebody who knits, they're usually thrilled to help somebody learn. You can also see if you've got a yarn store nearby that does classes, or rec centers will do classes sometimes too.

u/JedNascar · 2 pointsr/tarantulas

I agree with /u/Feriat. Almost everything listed is flat out wrong. We are definitely willing to give all the advice you need and answer all of your questions but you're going to need to trust us. The two biggest problems that absolutely need to be fixed before you get your tarantula are as follows:

  • That's the wrong kind of enclosure. Terrestrial tarantulas are very vulnerable to falls and it's really important to make sure that the tarantula cannot fall from great heights in it's own enclosure. You want one that's about 3 times as long/wide as the spider and enough substrate in there for it to burrow and so that the distance between the top of the substrate and the lid is equal to between 1 and 2 spider lengths. Having an enclosure that tall with that much open space is going to kill your tarantula someday. Maybe not right away, but eventually.
  • Never, ever, ever use a sponge in a water bowl. Like /u/Feriat said, sponges are really bad because they harbor bacteria and can make your tarantula really sick.

    I highly recommend that you, as well as the people that work in your arachnid department buy the Tarantula Keeper's Guide, 2nd Edition by Schultz. It's like $10 or less and has all of the information you need to keep your tarantula alive and happy. If you guys continue with the way things are apparently going all you'll ever have is unhealthy and/or dying tarantulas and nobody wants that.
u/LocalAmazonBot · 2 pointsr/tarantulas

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link: Tarantula Keeper's Guide


|Country|Link|
|:-----------|:------------|
|UK|amazon.co.uk|
|Spain|amazon.es|
|France|amazon.fr|
|Germany|amazon.de|
|Japan|amazon.co.jp|
|Canada|amazon.ca|
|Italy|amazon.it|
|China|amazon.cn|




To help donate money to charity, please have a look at this thread.

This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.

u/ladymolotov · 2 pointsr/tarantulas

The Tarantula Keeper's Guide is a fantastic resource to have for a new owner. Definitely a must-have, in my opinion.

I feed my red-knee about 5 large crickets a week. You should feed them at least once a week. If the crickets stay alive overnight, take them out because your new friend may be preparing to molt.

She may have no interest in food for a few weeks prior to her molt, and when she has finished molting, she should not be offered food for another week at least. She needs time for her body and fangs to become strong again, and the crickets can injure her during that time.

u/vAltyR47 · 2 pointsr/tarantulas

Tarantulas have been known to fast for multiple months. I only feed my Ts once a week or so, and the adults maybe every other week. Three days is nothing. As we say around here, spider's gonna spider.

Leave the roach in for 24 hours, if she doesn't eat it, take it out and try again next week. Make sure she has a water dish to stay hydrated, she won't starve to death that easily.

Welcome to the hobby! Grab yourself a copy of The Tarantula Keeper's Guide, it has all the information you could ask for.

u/--abadox-- · 2 pointsr/oddlysatisfying

Anyone that's interested in identifying, cultivating and consuming wild mushrooms, check out Mushrooms Demystified by David Arora.

Essential reading for everyone; from the budding mycologist to anyone who wants to eat wild mushrooms but is afraid of poisoning themselves.

u/DanChase1 · 2 pointsr/mycology

This is how you do that: mushrooms demystified

u/spam_police · 2 pointsr/canadaguns

LOL oh geez dude, are you sure you want to go down that rabbit hole? Mushrooming has a reputation for causing otherwise normal people to get a little obsessive... I never thought it'd be such an addiction but it really is - I mean we're talking a literal treasure hunt in the wilderness, depending on what you're after. (morel$ are just about to start fruiting)

This is THE book you want: https://www.amazon.ca/Mushrooms-Demystified-David-Arora/dp/0898151694/

u/baltimorosity · 2 pointsr/baltimore

These could be false morels, though I hope they aren't and you can eat a yummy meal. I would check them out on multiple sites and make a shroomery account. Also, if you plan to hunt often, Mushrooms Demystified and the Audubon Society's Mushroom Field Guide are both very necessary guides.

u/Fatboat · 2 pointsr/mycology

I can't speak to some of those questions with great certainty, I don't have any formal education in this topic. Though I know enough to hunt for many edible mushrooms.

And a copy of Mushrooms Demystified.

What book are you referencing?

Concerning the spore measurements, you do indeed need a microscope to discern individual spores.

Though taking a spore print of a mushroom is pretty simple, Here ya go.

> If you don't want to separate the cap from the stem, make a hole in an index card, place the card on a paper cup and slide the stem of the mushroom through the hole until the underside of the cap is resting on the card; then proceed as above.

You assure that you will not make a big mistake by sticking to tried and verified mushrooms that are well documented.

Search engines are an incredible resource for learning this kind of thing.

Many people who love mushrooms love to share their knowledge so many resources are available online.

Most importantly you should find people to hunt with to help you ID your finds.

Good luck, happy hunting!

u/no-mad · 2 pointsr/Carpentry

Carpenters often use distinct smells and grain patterns to tell woods aoart. Pine, cedar, oak, douglas-fir, hemlock, popular, ash, maple. After you have cut oak flooring for a room you will always know the smell. Most people can tell pine from cedar by smell. Same with other wood.


Wood Identification is tricky with less common woods. They use the end-grain samples from the tree to tell them apart.

u/jjhare · 2 pointsr/sysadmin
u/vacuous_comment · 2 pointsr/whatisthisthing

Your library might have this.

u/underthesun · 2 pointsr/nintype

Done, also reckon if we can get enough content, I'll hire someone to "bookify" it and make a PDF, and maybe make a physical copy, just for laughs. Can't be too expensive with all the custom printing services these days eh?

Something like this : http://www.amazon.com/Identifying-Wood-Accurate-Results-Simple/dp/0942391047

u/That_guy_Creid · 2 pointsr/botany

I have a really awesome book that was used as the textbook for my wood science class. http://smile.amazon.com/Identifying-Wood-Accurate-Results-Simple/dp/0942391047/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419218805&sr=8-1&keywords=identifying+wood
Basically, it is a cane, which is a grass, not a wood. It has similar characteristics. I would type up the main points of the book, but I didn't bring it home with me...

u/konnektion · 2 pointsr/Quebec

Achète-lui ce livre

C'est un mème, mais ça permet d'identifier pour vrai les essences et ainsi identifier la bonne technique de restoration.

u/victorstanciu · 2 pointsr/science

This book better have a chapter on this

u/Merk2 · 2 pointsr/OkCupid
u/vjarnot · 2 pointsr/woodworking

>What will happen if I put teak oil on non-teak.

Nothing bad.

The thing is, oil finishes don't add a whole lot of water resistance to the wood. So, on teak/cedar/mahogany that's not much of a problem, whereas on other woods you could get water damage.

>Is there any way for an idiot like me to identify the wood?

Hard to say. You could always post some high-res pics and crowdsource the identification. If it's unfinished, wipe some mineral-spirits on it when you take the pics - makes it easier to see the details. Or you could go all-out and get Hoadley's other fantastic book (I say 'other' because I'm constantly recommending this one).

u/hashtagcookies · 2 pointsr/puppy101

I would recommend to crate train him. After he is 1 year old and has had no accidents in the house, he can sleep on your bed. But starting this precedence now of allowing him to sleep with you means that you'll never be able to have him in a crate as an adult without him whining. Put a kong toy with peanut butter in the crate at the 4:30 am mark after he has gone potty, so he isn't restless. Source: Sophia Yin's Puppy Book (I'm 75% done reading it, and 10/10 recommend).

u/labolaenlaingle · 2 pointsr/argentina

Si el desafío de entrenarlo me parece apasionante y además muy importante siendo que va a ser tu compañero incondicional por más de una década.

Te paso links para que sepas cuales son:

https://www.amazon.com/Perfect-Puppy-Days-Start-Right/dp/0964151871

https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/215767.The_Power_of_Positive_Dog_Training

u/lzsmith · 2 pointsr/Dogtraining

I'd start with these books for the aggression specifically:

u/jacopo_tarantino · 2 pointsr/aquaponics

Ecology of the Planted Aquarium:... https://www.amazon.com/dp/0967377366?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Best most accurate thing I've ever read about aquarium keeping.

u/ErasmusCrowley · 2 pointsr/ReefTank

/r/plantedtank would likely be the best place for this question because freshwater is a very different experience to saltwater. Since I come from a planted freshwater background, I would say that it probably wouldn't do well.

Certainly there are some freshwater creatures that would work in a refugium, but many of them are insect larva that would eventually become something that you probably wouldn't want flying around your house. See damselflies, mosquitos, dragonflies, various beetles, etc.

You might be able to keep a small population of something like freshwater copepods, but they need green water which any filtration at all would destroy.

California blackworms might be a possibility, but I would still prefer to culture them outside the tank to make it easy to get rid of waste water. They don't necessarily need a refugium as they'll happily dig into the substrate at the bottom of the tank and live there until a fish plucks them out and eats them. I drop a small handful in my planted tank every few weeks or so to replenish their numbers.

The biggest advantage that freshwater aquarists have is an amazing variety of beautiful plants to use to reduce nitrates, phosphates and pollutants. A well planted tank will also grow all kinds of things like planaria and snails which can help keep some fish fed and round out the diets of others.

This is pretty much the bible of a 'natural' freshwater aquarium keeper. http://www.amazon.com/Ecology-Planted-Aquarium-Diana-Walstad/dp/0967377366

u/herdertree · 2 pointsr/PlantedTank

If you are new, co2 can be one more factor to have to control and adjust. You can have a beautiful tank without it, it will just limit you on what plants you can grow.

If you don’t plan on rearranging, a walstad tank is probably the easiest to start with and get good results. Plenty of online resources to explain it, but Her book is fantastic: https://www.amazon.com/Ecology-Planted-Aquarium-Diana-Walstad/dp/0967377366

u/Formoterol · 2 pointsr/PlantedTank
u/skrulls · 2 pointsr/PlantedTank

Buy [this book] (http://www.amazon.com/Ecology-Planted-Aquarium-Diana-Walstad/dp/0967377366/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367726741&sr=8-1&keywords=ecology+of+the+planted+aquarium). Read it, then read it again. I have two Walstad style/ultra low tech tanks - they do cycle themselves to some degree, but you still have to do regular water changes. As my tanks have matured I've had to do less and less frequent changes - down to about 3 times a year on my 60 gal (227 liters) and every 3 months or so on my 20 (75 liters). Smaller tanks require more water changes, especially one as small as 30 l. If you're looking for a low maintenance tank you might be disappointed - though you won't be changing the water as often as you might with a more traditional setup, you still need to test the water on a regular basis (ph, nitrate/nitrite, ammonia, gh/kh, etc). It also takes several months for the tank to really establish itself! (plants to get comfortable, bacteria to level out, new growth to start).

edit: ramshorn snails will eat your plants. Snails will probably crop up in your aquarium no matter what, but if you're dead set on purchasing some I recommend Nerites.

u/Librarycat77 · 2 pointsr/Dogtraining

At 10 weeks old it's not separation anxiety, it's totally normal puppy behavior. At that age his instincts tell him being alone isn't safe.

I'd suggest getting some books on how to prevent separation anxiety and doing some exercises with him, but mainly - DON'T act like coming home is fun or exciting. It's relaxing and calm. YOU can't be excited or nervous about coming or going, or puppy will learn that coming and going are scary.

When you come home calmly ignore puppy until they've settled, and then calmly let them out of their crate or pen. It's no big deal, just a normal thing.

Being left alone is also fine. Make sure they have a chew bone and a few toys, or scatter some kibble for them to hunt for, but it's not something to worry about.

Here's the two books I like best for separation anxiety:

https://www.amazon.com/Ill-Home-Soon-Separation-Anxiety/dp/1891767054/ref=sr_1_1?crid=4G7DWA5GFLFO&keywords=i%27ll+be+home+soon+by+patricia+mcconnell&qid=1570649960&sprefix=i%27ll+be+home+soon%2Caps%2C201&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/Leave-Step-Step-Separation-Anxiety/dp/0981722733/ref=sr_1_2?crid=4G7DWA5GFLFO&keywords=i%27ll+be+home+soon+by+patricia+mcconnell&qid=1570649975&sprefix=i%27ll+be+home+soon%2Caps%2C201&sr=8-2

u/OkayBai · 2 pointsr/Dogtraining

Here is a great book on Resource guarding.

u/BlueBG82 · 2 pointsr/Dogtraining

This book may also be a good thing to read.

u/socialpronk · 2 pointsr/Dogtraining

Guarding is a normal dog behavior, but is definitely unwanted. I don't believe that any dog should ever allow another dog to take their chew or toy, so mainly I focus on making sure dogs can enjoy their chew in peace. Other pets are not allowed to approach one who has a chew. Anyway, guarding becoming scarily common in Goldens. Check out the book Mine! by Jean Donaldson, you'll find a wealth of great tips and advice.
Management is going to be extremely important. Don't let your dog have an opportunity to guard.
Also, WHO THE FUCK BRINGS A BONE TO A DOG PARK?!??!?!!

u/efletch · 2 pointsr/reactivedogs

Sorry you had a rough weekend. Two things that stand out from you post is that your dog is overaroused outside and has resource guarding issues.

Resource guarding is pretty common, dogs either guard from humans or other dogs or both. Dogs can guard food, toys, spaces (bed, couch etc), people and more. Since it is so common there are a lot of resources out there. Start with the book Mine! to learn about resource guarding and how train it.

As for the overarousal outside I recommend the Relaxation Protocol. It is amazing! Here is a writeup about what it is and some mp3 files that talk you through the process. Start inside your house and then slowly work you way outside (backyard or low distraction area first).

Working with a trainer is a great idea. Make sure they've worked with these issues before. There are plenty of good trainers who can teach a dog to sit or come but don't have experience with behavioral issues. How may resource guarding clients have they had? What was the outcome? Would they be ok with you contacting a previous client who had resource guarding issues as a referral? It is great that you recognize there is a problem and you're willing to work it. It is not too late to start training and helping Maya :)

u/Zeusa · 2 pointsr/Dogtraining

Sounds like your dog is a resource guarder. The good news is that this is fixable. Get the book "Mine! A Practical Guide to Resource Guarding in Dogs" by Jean Donaldson. Short, easy to follow steps. Highly recommend.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/0970562942

u/xPersistentx · 2 pointsr/homestead

It really depends on the dogs disposition. Any book that promotes positive and motivational training is going to be good. People with dominant or excited dogs that they are having trouble with, then, I might suggest reading some Cesar Milan, but most people shouldn't need his style.

I highly suggest this to any dog owner.

u/BScatterplot · 2 pointsr/woodworking

This book is awesome:

https://www.amazon.com/Workbenches-Design-Construction-Popular-Woodworking/dp/1558708405/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483726386&sr=8-1&keywords=workbenches+from+design+and+theory

It's not step-by-step newbie friendly, but it should get you there. I learned a TON about benches from it. I haven't made a bench yet but plan to once I get enough time and space, and it's helped tremendously to understand different features on different benches. I doubt I'd ever buy a standard bench after learning about the different styles unless it was one made like OP's, which is a very good design.

Edit: revised edition here-

https://www.amazon.com/Workbenches-Revised-Design-Theory-Construction/dp/1440343128

u/blue_chalk · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Yep there are! There is I similar, slightly easier to build bench in Chris Schwarz's workbenches book

This exact bench hardware and full size plans are sold by Benchcrafted

u/mradtke66 · 2 pointsr/woodworking

That's quite neat, but I seriously doubt that would be strong enough. Maybe for a coffee table.

I strongly urge you to read "Workbench: From Design. . . ." by Chris Schwarz before you make any many of woodworking workbench. http://www.amazon.com/Workbenches-Design-Construction-Popular-Woodworking/dp/1558708405

u/sleepydad · 2 pointsr/AskReddit

you will need to a decent workbench.
Start here
http://www.amazon.com/Workbenches-Design-Construction-Popular-Woodworking/dp/1558708405
Christopher Schwarz does a great job of laying it out. He studies old texts. His 18th century joiner's design hailing from France is outstanding. I made one a couple of years ago and it’s awesome. I also just recently read his book on hand planes and it’s also excellent.
The popular woodworking blog is also a good place to find stuff
http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/
also try
http://www.lostartpress.com/
the fine woodworking forums also have excellent hand tool neanderthal section.
http://www.finewoodworking.com/
also try
http://www.cianperez.com/Wood/WoodDocs/Wood_How_To/INDEX_How_To.htm
I could go on and on but that should give you something to think about?



u/SwellsInMoisture · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Are you working with hand tools or power tools, primarily? Or, I should say, what will you be using on this bench?

For hand tools, you typically want a bench much lower, allowing you to keep your arms locked out and get the power from your body weight and legs. The rule of thumb is "the rule of your thumb." Stand with your arms at your sides. Stick your thumb straight forward. This is the height of your table. 30.5" for me.

For power tools, you don't have to worry about that sort of thing, and instead should have the workpiece closer to you for better visibility. 36" height is common.

Before you buy or build anything, do yourself a favor and pick up Chris Schwarz's Workbenches book. You're pretty much describing the English workbench in your post, and Chris goes into it in great detail, along with accompanying build plans.

u/jdecock · 2 pointsr/woodworking

If you're looking for workbench info, in addition to the Paul Sellers video that has been linked, I highly recommend Chris Schwarz's book on workbenches. I linked to the copy on Amazon, but my local library has it so maybe check yours as well.

He talks about a ton of different aspects of workbenches and runs down the pros/cons to a lot of different types of vises and designs. I found it super interesting.

u/CrownBee · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Depending on your area, rift sawn white oak can be quite expensive. I'd highly reccomend making your first bench out of southern yellow pine / doug fir, depending on what region you are in. It will often end up 1/2 price or less. If you really like the look of the oak, or can pick it up super cheap, it will make a great bench.

Even if you decide to make your bench out of SYP / DF, oak is a great accent wood for your vice chop (if you go for a leg vice) deadman, or endcaps. I think the Paul Sellers bench as designed doesn't use any of those features, so maybe that's not super useful for you. Check out Chris Shwarz's workbench book for more ideas and a comprehensive review of woods and their use for workbenches.

u/abbbbbba · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Chris Schwarz wrote a book - might be worth giving a read just so any advice you get, you can put into context.

https://www.amazon.com/Workbenches-Design-Construction-Popular-Woodworking/dp/1558708405

u/somethingfortoday · 2 pointsr/woodworking

From everything I understand, this is probably your best resource: Chris Swarz

There's also a video series that Paul Sellers did on making his workbench. Start here and work your way through all 10 parts. There is a ton of useful information on working with hand tools in this particular video series.

u/kapone3047 · 2 pointsr/BeginnerWoodWorking

If old timey wood working rocks your boat, I highly recommend following Chris Schwarz. He has done a lot to popularize the Roubo bench and other older tools and methods. He also wrote two of the best books on workbenches (https://www.amazon.com/Workbenches-Design-Construction-Popular-Woodworking/dp/1558708405).

There's also a good video about the Roubo workbench at http://www.popularwoodworking.com/video/roubo_workbench_tour

You can follow Chris at:

u/kjh9121 · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Yeah I love this book. I have his "blue" book too https://www.amazon.com/Workbenches-Design-Construction-Popular-Woodworking/dp/1558708405

There are 9 or 10 bench plans in the red book and some extra material about workholding and other related topics. /u/IneffableMF mentioned below that this book is a 'free' kindle book for prime members.

u/With_which_I_will_no · 2 pointsr/woodworking

http://www.amazon.com/Workbenches-Design-Construction-Popular-Woodworking/dp/1558708405

Slow down.

Get this book. Read it cover to cover if possible. Reconsider your design. IMO it’s totally worth you reading this book before you invest your time and money into a bench.

I have no idea what kind of work you do? This will dictate what kind of bench you are going to want.

I honestly think there are some major flaws with the design you show. The top is way to thin. The legs are not flush with the top. How are you going to work on wide edge board surfaces? How are things clamped down, across.

People were wood working for thousands of years and the book is a good culmination of what we know about those old school benches.

Ask yourself this question “Is it really possible that I have more insight into designing workbenches than all the other people who have used workbenches for the past 2000+ years?” the answer might be yes… but if you’re like the rest of us then the answer is probably no.

u/Clay_Statue · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Clamps. Buy more clamps. When you think you have enough then get more still.

Buy this book. The workbench is the most often overlooked tool that people don't think about. The workbench is essentially one giant clamping station.

u/hrbna · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I would recommend reading Chris Scwarz's Workbench book if you haven't already.

http://www.amazon.com/Workbenches-Design-Construction-Popular-Woodworking/dp/1558708405

u/eyesonlybob · 2 pointsr/woodworking

You could be fine with pine. If you're using the cheapest stuff you can find, it will no doubt have knots right? that stuff will most likely not be flat and tends to warp bad - especially if you get it from a home center like home depot. You would have better luck with the select pine from HD but that stuff isn't as cheap. Also, check out the Janka scale. It is referred to in the book workbenches when choosing a wood.

I went with a planer at the time because I had other needs that a jointer couldn't handle. I plan to eventually purchase a jointer as well.

u/kibitzello · 2 pointsr/homestead

I'm a bit of a generalist. I always have lots of projects going on at once, each in a different state of completion. The books I have listed I do own, and read and pick through the most often.

The first two are generalist books. I say that because they both have such a breadth of information it's hard to describe them. The third is more specialist in that it covers only a single subject, but does so in such detail and in a recipe type format that it's easy to follow along. It starts with how to build a blacksmith shop, what tools you need, and how to use tools you make to build bigger tools to help build other, bigger tools.

https://www.amazon.com/Encyclopedia-Country-Living-40th-Anniversary/dp/1570618402

https://www.amazon.com/Self-Sufficient-Life-How-Live/dp/0756654505/ref=pd_sim_14_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=FR7BRBKJ9CA3XRWW1N8H

https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Modern-Blacksmith-Alexander-Weygers/dp/0898158966/ref=sr_1_15?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1473081102&sr=1-15&keywords=blacksmithing

u/HansJSolomente · 2 pointsr/peacecorps

Where are you posted? I'm curious if the seasons would be applicable enough for a homesteading book or something.
http://www.amazon.com/Encyclopedia-Country-Living-Anniversary-Edition/dp/1570618402

Otherwise, if you're more tropical.... hm... I don't know, actually...

And if you're posted in SSA... African Friends and Money Matters. 100% effective.

u/b27v · 2 pointsr/prepping

You're looking for "The Encyclopedia of Country Living", by Carla Emery.

https://www.amazon.com/Encyclopedia-Country-Living-40th-Anniversary/dp/1570618402

u/justprettymuchdone · 2 pointsr/blogsnark

Country Living is a good one too - it has lots of sections on gardening, homesteading, etc. https://www.amazon.com/Encyclopedia-Country-Living-40th-Anniversary/dp/1570618402/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496664896&sr=8-1&keywords=country+living

The Backyard Homestead is a good one for when you have limited space for your garden, too: https://www.amazon.com/Backyard-Homestead-Produce-food-quarter/dp/1603421386/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1496664924&sr=8-6&keywords=homesteading

And then we LOVE this cookbook. It's a bit basic, but I use the recipes in it over and over and over again - her Herbed Biscuit recipe is my go-to now for biscuits, dumplings in chicken and dumplings, that sort of thing. If you don't live in the NOrtheast, though, you'll have to adjust the months for when stuff becomes available in the garden: https://www.amazon.com/Farmers-Cookbook-Preserving-Fermenting-Handbook/dp/1616083808/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1496664947&sr=8-5&keywords=farmer%27s+cookbook

u/TemptThePuffin · 2 pointsr/todayilearned

> I don't just leave them locked outside all day.

Doggie door. Cutting a hole in the side of my house is the absolute best life enhancement in terms of bang for buck.

Best of luck on moving to the country. This link and most of the recommended books at the bottom of the page are awesome.

u/phidophoto · 2 pointsr/homestead

I've heard great things about this one, but haven't purchased it for myself yet. It's one of those old-school "pass thing down the way they used to do them" books. http://amzn.com/1570618402

u/jediknight · 2 pointsr/Romania

Momentan citesc Growing Gourmet Medicinal Mushrooms. :)

Inainte de ea am terminat 12 Rules for Life.

Urmatoarea probabil o sa fie Skin in the game.


> Bonus: Cartea preferata.

Nu prea mai am o carte preferata. Sunt mai multe aflate la nivelul maxim din varii motive si nu prea pot alege intre ele.

"The Gift" a lui Hafiz si "Felicity" a lui Mary Oliver sunt doua carti de poezie care mi-au placut enorm si pe care le pot recomanda fara ezitare. :)

u/boccelino · 2 pointsr/news

>growing my own food

You say that like it's a bad thing! Growing our own food is one of the most powerful things regular people can do to help break the vile corporate stranglehold we find ourselves locked into. You'd be surprised how much food you can grow in a relatively small space, with relatively little effort. This book and its associated Wikipedia entry outline a good method.

u/CodenameWalrus · 2 pointsr/gardening

Well, four that I can think of off the top of my head would have to be:

u/bruceOf · 2 pointsr/collapse

Just start small and you will learn a little more each season. I started last year in pretty much the same place, with a square foot garden. Ordered some seeds from a seed library local to my region. I was shocked that anything at all came up from those seeds! I grew a huge crop of the most beautiful and wonderful simple vegetables in two 4x4 boxes. (cucumbers, tomatos, lettuce, carrots). Some sort of beatle attacked all of my green beans. And the lettuce grew quick in the early spring but most of it rotted in the ground because who can eat that much lettuce! Now I try to share the excess.. I ended up giving away bags and bags of cucumbers on craigs list and made my very first batch of homeade tomato sauce at the end of summer! This year we added a compost bin and a third box. We are flush with radishes right now - which come up super quick :) http://www.amazon.com/Square-Foot-Gardening-Second-Revolutionary/dp/1591865484/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464224162&sr=8-1&keywords=square+foot+garden

u/solid_reign · 2 pointsr/rooftopgardens

Can you be more specific?
Plants depend on the climate, season, soil depth, companion planting, sun and shadow availability. Planting in a rooftop doesn't affect that. I'm in Mexico City, so I can plant most plants during most of the year.

You can use this map to find your hardiness zone (if it's Vienna, which I'm guessing from your history, it's zone 6). And use a hardiness zone planting guide:
http://veggieharvest.com/calendars/zone-6.html
http://www.almanac.com/plants/hardiness-zone/6

As for cultivation techniques, with limited space you should be looking at intensive gardening techniques:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/vegetable/intensive.html

I'd go for square foot gardening, it's nice and simple.

Please let me know if any of this is unclear, or if you were looking for something else.

u/terahz · 2 pointsr/gardening

Here is a good starter book http://www.amazon.com/dp/1591865484
You can use this method for small containers that you put on your balcony.

And a good reference book http://www.amazon.com/dp/1603424768

Good luck!

u/gumbystruck · 2 pointsr/gardening

Baker Creek Herloom seeds has a very useful website. Under all of their plants they have reviews. Also if you go to their Facebook page they have a guy named Matt that teaches a lot about gardening on their live feeds. Also a good starter book that I enjoyed just staring out was [square foot gardening ](All New Square Foot Gardening II: The Revolutionary Way to Grow More in Less Space https://www.amazon.com/dp/1591865484/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xoHRybVDJT2Y6)
And The [Vegetable Gardener's Bible ](The Vegetable Gardener's Bible, 2nd Edition: Discover Ed's High-Yield W-O-R-D System for All North American Gardening Regions: Wide Rows, Organic Methods, Raised Beds, Deep Soil https://www.amazon.com/dp/160342475X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fpHRybBXSA45A) if you have any gardening questions you can PM if you would like and I would love to help.
Also I'll compile a list of my favorite resources for gardening.

u/brwalkernc · 2 pointsr/AdvancedRunning

We did raised beds when we lived in town. Check out the book All New Square Foot Gardening. Lots of good info in there.

u/tasty_pathogen · 2 pointsr/Frugal

Since you say that you live in a rural area do you live in a house with a yard? One really good way of saving money on food is to start a garden. Gardening is a skill that is fun and can be learned. It is also a fun hobby. If you use the raised bed method then there is almost no maintenance work needed once you have it all set up. Another popular method is Square Foot Gardening. If you use permaculture methods then there is no need to constantly buy fertilizer.

From September to November we will be spending $0 on buying fruit. The apple and pear trees from the community garden provides all the fruit we need for this period. All you can eat pears and apples does get a bit boring after a while though. We have enough winter squash to last us into next year.

Our community garden patch is 30x30 feet. We don't grow food on all of it. It supplies most of our vegetables during the fall.

We kind of overdid it on the Swiss Chard this year. Been eating way to much of that stuff. The beets were nice this year as well. (Don't forget that you can eat beet greens.) Still eating the potatoes from the fall harvest. Hopefully they will last till Christmas but I'm not sure. The New Zealand spinach was nice as well. The yellow zucchini was really nice. The tomatoes were wonderful.

u/hydrobrain · 2 pointsr/Permaculture

Permaculture: A Designer's Manual is considered the bible for permaculture because of how comprehensive it is and how much information is packed into that book. It won't explain all of the effective strategies for different climates that we've developed over the last 30 years but I would definitely start there for the foundation. Then move on to books on topics that are specific to a particular topic within permaculture design.

​

My Recommendations:

u/calskin · 2 pointsr/homestead

Again, great questions. Here's a video I did on hugelkultur a bit ago. I don't recommend going to my website at the moment though because it's been recently hacked and I'm working on cleaning it up. The youtube video will be fine though. Check out that video, if you have more questions, feel free to ask.

You can do the flat raised bed idea, and I did the same last year, but I believe you will get more benefit from doing the piqued hills.

Grey water collection and rainwater harvesting are excellent ideas. I don't know if you could make use of it, but here is a super cool idea for a ram pump which requires no external input other than elevation change. Other than that, I don't know much about water tanks.

One really cool thing I've seen used is where people dig a trench under their garden and bury weeping tile in that trench which snakes around their garden. Then they connect that weeping tile to their downspout from there gutters and when it rains, they get a massive deep soak in their garden.

Swales are a fantastic thing to think about as they will help keep water on your land. Swales mixed with heavy mulching are a huge force in keeping your land irrigated. Check out greening the desert for more on that.

As for the PDC, you don't even have to pay for it. I googled free online PDC and found this.

http://www.permaculturedesigntraining.com/

If you want to learn more about it, there are amazing books which can help.

Gaia's Garden and Sepp Holzer's Permaculture

That's awesome that your SO is taking that course. She'll probably learn some really cool sustainable farming things.

Also, check out http://www.permies.com. There's tons of info there, and super amazing people who are very helpful.

u/mcbeacon · 2 pointsr/humansinc

sadly, permaculture has been the victim of greenwashing. Check out Gaia's Garden: http://www.amazon.com/Gaias-Garden-Second-Home-Scale-Permaculture/dp/1603580298

The core concept of permaculture is to integrate systems into each other so intimately that the waste streams of a single process become input for others and eventually recycle into the first. Rainwater harvesting, grey-water plumbing, black-water irrigation and purification, and food production can all be tied together to make the most of the water that you collect, and by mulching the compostable materials on the property you can create healthy happy soil that is exponentially safer than pumping in pesticides and fertilizers to make it viable.

Often, its not that technology has been overlooked, Its that technology harms the land that it is used on. Such as row planting and mechanized plowing. By planting only ONE crop, the farm's soil instantly loses most mirco-nutrient content due to lack of plant diversity. The large machines come in and destroy the fungal and bacterial water networks that take many years to develop. With these gone, and the crop layer having been harvested, there is no water or biomass to hold down the top soil and we get dust storms, while the farmer has to spend tons of money to aerate and fertilize the sand which he hopes to grow food on again.

Sorry to be so long winded, but Permaculture takes every method by its input/output and matches it to a system that can handle those flows. IF you can create a system that is healthy for the planet, uses less (or no) oil, and creates healthy food for millions, then permaculture can save agriculture, but imho, its gotten too big to tame, and we need to look at other avenues to provide food security.

u/bonsie · 2 pointsr/gardening

i can personally attest to the benefits of building your garden this way. i think i pulled 2 weeds all season and my tomatoes, peppers, sunflowers and lettuce did great! i have already started next year's garden and can't wait to try a few new things! some added bonuses (other than not having to till) are that with this technique you don't have to disrupt the ecosystem under the soil and the cardboard actually draws the worms up into your garden, adding even more fertilizer. i will never build garden any other way! an excellent book that talks about this and other ways to create and work with a natural ecosystem is gaia's garden. it teaches you how to have a beautiful, useful yard/space with minimal work.

u/heytherebud · 2 pointsr/DIY

Don't know about adobe construction, but Gaia's Garden is a great introduction to practical permaculture. The photo on the cover is from a farm in Arizona.

u/mesosorry · 2 pointsr/IAmA

Reading "Gaias Garden" right now. Lifechanging stuff.

Permaculture can help save our world!

u/Jechira · 2 pointsr/Permaculture

Everyone here has already covered all I was going to say. In some of your comments you said you wanted to learn more about permaculture might I recommend Gaia's Garden. It is very general but it gave me a really great foundation for permaculture and the lists and ideas are fantastic.

u/carlynorama · 2 pointsr/gardening

You might consider what kind of gardener you want to be more philosophically, too.

Do you want to grow a food ecosystem? Permaculture is your thing - Gaia's Garden would be a good book for you

https://www.amazon.com/Gaias-Garden-Guide-Home-Scale-Permaculture/dp/1603580298/

Do you need compact lazy-persons garden? Square Foot Gardening

"Square Foot Gardening" (Beginners Guide) as a start.

Like the idea of a themed garden like u/SedatedApe61 recommended? Groundbreaking Food Gardens has loads of ideas along those lines

https://www.amazon.com/Groundbreaking-Food-Gardens-Change-Garden/dp/161212061X/

There are as many ways to garden as gardeners. Finding the plants that suit both your location and your style of gardening goes a long way.

u/Polydeuces · 2 pointsr/homestead

Depending on how much space you've got, this one is pretty nice: The Backyard Homestead. There's a little bit of everything :)

If you're into permaculture and that kind of thing, I'd recommend Gaia's Garden and Edible Forest Gardens, Vol 2. Be warned, Edible Forest Gardens is a bit like reading an engineering text!

u/Eight43 · 2 pointsr/landscaping

I don't know what you're into, but check out Gaia's garden for ideas on what to plant. You don't have to garden the entire yard, but make what you plant count.

Most people want to enjoy their outdoor space with a seating and dining area too. What a great blank slate you have!

u/bluesimplicity · 2 pointsr/Permaculture

Gaia's Garden is a book written with North America in mind. It has lists of plants by function, layer, and hardiness USDA climate zone.

Plants for the Future is a free online database of 7000 plants. You can search this database by hardiness USDA climate zone, size, soil type, and use (medicinal, edible, soil conditioners, fiber, etc.)

Edible Food Forest is a two volume set of books. The second volume also has lists of plants.

u/phlegmvomit · 2 pointsr/MGTOW

This is a topic that I've just barely started to get into, but right now I'm reading Gaia's Garden and its really interesting so far.

u/spontanewitty · 2 pointsr/homestead

If you have a place where you can grow a few things in the house or outside covered in colder weather, you have more options. Some are tropical. I would say make a list of your favorites. One example of something you could likely grow if you found the right bulbs is saffron. It's often used in Indian cuisine and comes from a variety of crocus. You can grow your own pepper. You can also grow flavorings for old-fashioned candies, herbal teas or tisanes, root beer ... anything you can think of if you look hard enough. Even if you can't grow the exact plant, there are often alternative plants you can grow and get a very similar flavor. Nasturtium flower buds can be made into "poor man's capers". You can grow more than just food. If you are into crafting, you can also make your own plant-based dyes and paints from plants, eggs, and other things.

For a book that lists other plants you may not think of, as well as ways to attract and help wildlife try Gaia's Garden. I think you may also enjoy Uncommon Fruits for Every Garden.

u/ColdWeatherAquaponic · 2 pointsr/aquaponics

Alex Veidel has been doing research and experiments with non-manure-based compost in aquaponics. He did a talk on it at the Aquaponics Fest, and is writing an article in Aquaponics Survival Communities this month on possible issues with compost.

I know that inoculations have become quite popular in hydroponics as of late. This might be partly because they've realized that aquaponics systems actually grow faster once they're mature, and that this must have something to do with bacterial or fungal nutrient uptake improvements.

Human knowledge in this area is severely lacking. We know so little about how microbial communities influence plant growth, we might as well be cave-men scratching drawings on a cave wall. For a good read on this topic, check out Teaming With Microbes.

Vlad Jovanovic at Aquaponics Source Forum might have some ideas for you.

u/candied_ginger · 2 pointsr/gardening
u/PostingInPublic · 2 pointsr/gardening

Hi, coming from the same angle, I'm fairly certain that you want to read this book.

u/HighGuyTheShyGuy · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

If you want to go organic, read Teaming With Microbes.

It's the down and dirty of using organic inputs

u/SamuraiSam33 · 2 pointsr/CannabisExtracts

Whether or not your 'flush' was needed depends on what was in your fertilizer as you were using bottled chemicals and not organic inputs... Organic gardening relies on organic inputs decomposing in soil via microbial activity, broken down and fed to plants through a mycorrhizal fungal network. You don't need to use any sort of bottled nutrients if you are gardening organically. I'm no expert gardener, but I've worked in a few gardens and harvested a few plants, and I seem to see the healthiest, hardiest plants grown in plain soil with no bottled nutrients. Check out the book "Teaming with Microbes" by Jeff Lowenfels and explore the soil food web http://www.soilfoodweb.com/ if you want to learn about organic gardening. If you want to learn more Jeff has written a three part series, the next book is Teaming with Nutrients and lastly Teaming with Fungi.

u/TheGreenChandrian · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

Tons of amazing suggestions in this thread already so I'm going to go with a different suggestion...read "Teaming with Microbes" by Jeff Lowenfels and Wayne Lewis. I think a much easier approach to organic gardening is understanding that every input you choose to introduce should be feeding the microbial life that is in the soil. At the heart of SST, ACT, and all of the fermented variations of organic fertilizers are microbial beasties (bacteria and fungi). These are what you are trying to nourish with organic inputs since they (and the organisms that feed on them) are responsible for producing/converting the nutrients in the soil into plant accessible forms.

u/ZVPalu · 2 pointsr/LSD

I hugely appreciate Nature. Had a few encounters with the intelligence of nature and I experienced a glimpse of what it feels like to be a tree while being guided by a shaman in Peru. I found that so many things are treated with ignorance and the real beauty of nature has to be perceived as a whole. What goes on underneath, in the soil is truly remarkable.
Read this book after my experience that made me realize how little we know and understand:
https://www.amazon.com/Teaming-Microbes-Organic-Gardeners-Revised/dp/1604691131

u/pgoetz · 2 pointsr/gardening

Yep. And in order to comply with Rule#2, I use a pitchfork to fold mulch/compost into the clay. We had no earthworms (that I ever saw) when we started gardening. Fork up the soil the following year after mixing wood mulch into the clay and every forkload of soil has a juicy fat earthworm in it. Using a pitchfork is not only a much easier way of turning the soil (as opposed to using a shovel), but it also prevents the earthworms from being accidently lopped in half.

Edit: interesting anecdote gleaned from Teaming with Microbes: earthworms hate forests because of the high acidity soil microculture there.

u/belds · 2 pointsr/homeowners

I have variety in my lawn, different grasses, clover, some weeds. I’ve never had to thatch anything. I think at least part of the problem some people have is that they kill the things that help decompose that dead grass. Pesticides kill lots of beneficial insects and over fertilizing with strong chemical fertilizers kill lots of microorganisms in the soil.


This book really opened my eyes to the benefits of mostly organic gardening and lawn care. It’s a pretty short read and explains well some really basic concepts to help your plants of all kinds thrive with minimal effort




https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/1604691131/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_8?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

u/xecosine · 2 pointsr/gardening

If you want a book Seed to Seed is a good one to go with. There are even sections for specific plants.

u/reflectives · 2 pointsr/collapse

I did save a few of the easy things like corn, squash, beans, and watermelon. Saving seed is definitely something I want to do more of this year. Seed to Seed is a great resource that I use. I've experimented with heirloom and hybrids varieties. Hybrids seem to be easier to grow, but you don't get a quality seed to save.

u/theefaulted · 2 pointsr/gardening

It all depends on what you're trying to achieve.

You're concern is on par. If you only keep seeds that are from late in the season it's possible you might end up with pepper plants that put off late fruit. I generally try to save seeds from the best looking and tasting fruit all season.

One big question: Are you growing more than one variety of pepper or tomato? If so, and you did not take precautions to make sure they did not cross-pollinate, you will likely end up with a variety other than what you planted. Doesn't mean you can't save the seed, but don't expect those plants to be your main crop producers next year.

Check out the book Seed to Seed by Suzanne Ashworth. It is the best resource on seed saving I've ever read.
http://www.amazon.com/Seed-Growing-Techniques-Vegetable-Gardeners/dp/1882424581

u/mindlessLemming · 2 pointsr/Homesteading

Here are two books I consider essential references, both of which I would recommend to anyone:

Seed to Seed

Root cellaring

You need to preserve your seeds, and you need to preserve your harvests. Both are superb references for their respective topics.

u/ExaltTheFarmer · 2 pointsr/HotPeppers
u/Dont_Call_it_Dirt · 2 pointsr/gardening

Seed to Seed is an excellent reference.

u/PermasogBlog · 2 pointsr/preppers

Ashworth's book has some pretty specific stats on seed longevity (e.g. "spinach seeds will retain 50% germination for 5 years when stored under ideal conditions.") Unfortunately the one flaw in the book is that is really is only for vegetables, so many of the basic grains like rice are not included. But it's still a standard reference for home seed saving.

Most serious seed savers freeze it, tbh. Or at least freeze representative samples of their favorite varieties, enough to recreate the population should your harvest fail. Dry it appropriately, stick it in a ziploc in the bottom of a chest freezer, and most seed will effectively last forever, until the electricity dies.

u/DarthTimGunn · 2 pointsr/dogs

I have a very neurotic/anxious dog and the best thing I can suggest is time. She was on clomicalm (dog prozac) for 2 years. We tried crating her at first but she kept making her nose bleed by trying to shove it through the wires. So for the first few months we didn't crate her at all, but left her in the bathroom. She scratched the hell out of the door, but oh well. When we were home we tried to get her used to the crate (putting treats in the crate and letting her get them out, then putting her in the crate for increasing amounts of time while we were home, then finally leaving her in the crate while we ran a short errand...etc).
These books (I'll be home soon and Don't leave me) were extremely helpful.

Eventually we were able to crate her full time (a friend who works nearby let her out at lunch). She never liked the crate like some dogs do. Sometimes she would go in when we told her "Ok time to get in your crate." Sometimes we had to put her in there. Everytime she gave us the most pitiful look. For a while she would poop in the crate (out of anxiety, she was house trained) and we would have to clean the crate everyday (and I'd rather her poop in there than injure herself). But eventually that stopped. Suffice to say she never liked the crate, but she didn't injure herself.

Now she roams free during the day (we did it similar to how she was crated...first for short periods, then longer) and she does fine with it.

Separation anxiety is so difficult and frustrating. Just keep at it and keep trying. It's a long process and there's no 100% fix. Just patience (and love, at the risk of sounding corny). Try to introduce him to the crate slowly. Even if he doesn't like the crate, he can learn to tolerate it. And definitely get help from a behaviorist if you're able. We didn't go so far as hiring one, but I went to a few free "anxious dogs" seminars given by a behaviorist that were sponsored by a local dog rescue (where I was recommended the books above) and it gave me a lot of insight.

Hang in there and don't give up!

u/EasilyAmusedEE · 1 pointr/aww

Ooo, getting a bit upset now are we?

I bet you've never picked up a dog training book in your life, what, because it's too hard? Don't have the time to learn the science of dogs? Bet you got one and just winged it cause, hey, how hard to could it be to raise a dog?

Here's one that I recommend to all of my friend's with dogs and after our talk, I feel like we've become close friends. The Art of Raising A Puppy

Dog training isn't some evil action that I feel you think it is. If you think about it, ever since dogs were domesticated, they've had to be trained in order to co-exist with humans. You do this a certain way for me, I give you food and love. It's a mutually beneficial relationship.

Sure you can just have one and let it live with you, no rules, all free willy. But eventually, your dog is going to do something you don't like. Now you can pass it off as dogs will be dogs but one of these day's your dog might do something that someone else doesn't like, and once you anger enough people or if the act is bad enough, it's going to affect you and you will be personally responsible. Remember, a dog without conflict, is a happy dog. What that means is if he behaves, people can only love him and there will never be a reason for anyone to be upset at him.

I really hope you learn how to raise a good dog, and if it ever comes to it, learn how to raise a good child. Don't go into it thinking you know everything. Do a little research, and read some books. You'll soon learn that there is a lot about dogs that you really don't know, and that's ok, it's a learning experience for both of you.

u/gabarnier · 1 pointr/dogs

Some great books on raising a pup using one of the right ways. This: http://www.amazon.com/Art-Raising-Puppy-Revised/dp/0316083275/ref=pd_sim_b_39 book keeps showing up. There is also a series of books from about 10 - 15 years ago by a matronly woman that were the 'go-to' book back then but, sorry, I can't remember her name. I used her methods twice. Crating is a key.

u/BlondTigerCage · 1 pointr/germanshepherds
u/earnerd00 · 1 pointr/nashville

Do you have any friends will well behaved dogs you could introduce it to? I would highly caution you against taking your dog to the dog park to socialize them. I think people think that you have to allow your dog to get out and engage and interact with everyone and everything during the fear stages, but the quality (not quantity) of these interactions are going to have a life long impact on your pup so it would be worthwhile for you to check out this book: https://www.amazon.com/Art-Raising-Puppy-Revised/dp/0316083275/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540173332&sr=8-1&keywords=the+art+of+raising+a+puppy+by+monks+of+new+skete

​

Have fun!!

u/The-Riskiest-Biscuit · 1 pointr/shiba

Find “The Art of Raising a Puppy” by the monks of New Skete. They train German Shepherds for the most part, I believe, but their advice and knowledge is applicable to most breeds.

u/approachingX · 1 pointr/rarepuppers

Somewhere neither dog has been before. Check out the Monks of New Skete. They’re gosh darn dog wizards.

u/2sliderz · 1 pointr/corgi

while I dont agree with everything this book is a good start.

https://www.amazon.com/Art-Raising-Puppy-Revised/dp/0316083275

Tons of great blogs by lots of positive reinforcement trainers.

u/dietfig · 1 pointr/AlaskanMalamute

Give her a week to adjust, remember you've literally just taken her away from everything she's ever known into an entirely new environment. I wouldn't worry too much about the leash walking, I bet it will improve if you're patient and give her time. I'm not sure I'd start a dog that young on leash training anyways.

Don't take things too fast and let her settle down. Read a few books on training, I'd recommend the Monks of New Skete's The Art of Raising a Puppy; you should be able to find it at your library.

u/kikimonster · 1 pointr/dogs

https://www.amazon.com/Other-End-Leash-What-Around/dp/034544678X?ie=UTF8&ref_=asap_bc

Read this book. It'll give you so much insight into what your dog and other dogs are thinking.

u/ceeeKay · 1 pointr/todayilearned

Somewhat related, fantastic book about communication between humans and dogs. http://www.amazon.com/The-Other-End-Leash-Around/dp/034544678X

u/mysled · 1 pointr/Dogtraining

The Other End of the Leash by Patricia McConnell

http://www.amazon.com/The-Other-End-Leash-Around/dp/034544678X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404943654&sr=8-1&keywords=patricia+mcconnell

The article states not to free feed if your dog resource guards. If you don't have problems with guarding and your dog doesn't overeat, free feeding is fine (and for reference my vet told me the same thing). If she starts to get overweight, switch her to a schedule.

One thing from personal experience: I was in the same situation with my dog, and I free fed her for a while, but she started skipping meals and throwing up bile, and then having inconsistent BMs. She also kept getting intestinal parasites. I'm 90% sure it's because I was feeding her too much and the food was too rich, it was upsetting her GI tract, and she would binge eat when she felt fine, then feel worse, then starve herself.

Long story short I only feed her 1/3-1/2 what the bag recommends now, and then feed her extra if she is still hungry at dinner. She also gets treats and scraps, so she ultimately gets plenty to eat. She's doing great!

u/ala1985 · 1 pointr/BDSMcommunity

> I know that a big part of training dogs is making sure that they understand where they fall in the hierarchy of the household.

This has been debunked. Dogs have a pack hierarchy between other dogs. Dogs know humans are not dogs and therefore there is no struggle for dominance.

> Untrained dogs will often come to see themselves as "outranking" some members of the family, especially children.

Dogs that show "dominant" behavior to humans are simply insecure dogs who have not been shown that these largely fear based behaviors are unnecessary and unacceptable. It has nothing to do with rank. Like I said before, these dogs are often high strung and fearful so the erratic, noisy, and clumsy nature of children is often terrifying to them, thus why they act out.

> Has anyone ever intentionally given a dog preferential treatment over a sub to encourage this dynamic?

This actually probably wouldn't encourage the dynamic you're looking for unless you forced the sub to treat the dog poorly or have an improperly socialized dog. An intentionally poorly socialized dog is a liability and IMO cruel. Even police departments are changing their training methods to encourage properly socialized dogs being trained to bite on cue rather than dogs socialized to be suspicious and bite out of a protection drive. Too many bites to innocent people were happening. Dogs are opportunists and when properly socialized see all humans as living breathing opportunities to be fed, given affection, and played with, even if they get the majority of those needs filled by one person. There are some breeds that are more inclined to bond much closer to one person (German Shepherds, Akitas, Chows, Dalmatians for example) but when properly socialized they still are affectionate to other people, especially those in the household.

In short, this is a bad and actually highly unrealistic idea. Also, may be worthwhile to read up on modern dog behavior and training for the sake of your dog.

From the American Veterinary Society of Dog Behavior
http://avsabonline.org/uploads/position_statements/dominance_statement.pdf

An excellent book that explains many aspects of how dogs and even most other animals learn and think
http://www.amazon.com/The-Other-End-Leash-Around/dp/034544678X

One more for good measure
https://www.alldogsgym.com/dominance-a-dog-pack-behavior/basics/general/social-hierarchy-a-pack-behavior

u/stread · 1 pointr/dogs

Surprisingly it's got a pretty big list of different things that it can cause:

http://pets.webmd.com/dogs/hypothyroidism-in-dogs

The first thing we noticed was aggression when he got kicked out of day care and the first time we heard about checking on his thyroid which I'd never heard of before in dogs. After reading up a bit while waiting on results(took a day or 2 each time) there was a lot of signs but I can't say it was anything more than confirmation bias until we got the confirmed result.

For him though, the signs that we noticed were along the lines of a tendency of baldness from neck to chest, slow hair growth, lethargy, aggression, and so on.

Even if he has a thyroid issue, this is potentially only part of the problem, training will have to be addressed immediately and never really ends, though it gets easier.

As soon as we got the blood test started I began reading a book that came highly recommended from the vet and friends The other end of the leash and it's taught me a lot about the things we show them we don't realize that leads to bad behavior and how to pay attention to your dogs behavior and mannerisms for warnings, etc.

Those combined, and pending getting his levels right, have led to huge strides in his confidence, aggression, and behavior. Eventually the day care place said they would re-evaluate him but we're holding off until the medical issue is addressed.

u/Snooso · 1 pointr/dogs

Does he realize he makes you incredibly anxious? Maybe its something you should just come out and say to him. :)

Some Books:

u/FlorenceLawrence · 1 pointr/puppy101

Thanks for the thoughtful response. We have considered day care but the last and only time we boarded him the owner charged us extra for having a high maintenance dog and said he has "severe separation anxiety". She told us to read this book . Although, we might try again. He does well when he's around other dogs.

The book is where we got that food technique. I give him his meal, say bye and leave the home. I re-enter, say hello and take his bowl early. Then repeat. It's not really helping. He's just learning to eat faster.

I love the weekend training idea and think that could produce results. As for the barking, I tried something new this morning. We did a training session where I would treat quiet and sitting behavior while standing just outside the front door. If he was quiet and sitting then I would open the door and give him kibble. I am only worried this will reinforce him heavily anticipating our return to the house. Thoughts?

u/dogboat · 1 pointr/TwoXChromosomes

Get him good dog food! here is a list of dog food I stole from /r/pets, try to get 5 or 6 star dog food to cut back on potential allergies and so she can be a healthy dog. (We use Wellness brand, and my dog loves it.)

Since its a puppy I'm going to give you a warning: it's going to act like a giant jerk-ass sometimes. Things will be destroyed, chewed up, and drooly so try to keep everything out of reach of the puppy, it really doesn't know any better. Get her lots of chew toys to play with while you're gone so she doesn't get bored. Bored dogs are destructive dogs.

I suggest reading The Other End of the Leash, it gives really good insight to how dogs think and why they react to things the way they do.

As for names...uh, I'm bad at names. It took me almost a week before I named my dog. We settled on Pixel, because he's tiny :3 This probably won't work for you, except ironically. I was also tossing around Qwerty (sounds like cutie! sorta.) or Vector. If you like videogames you could always name her Zelda, or if you're a Firefly fan there's always River (or Zoe, or Kaylee, etc.)

u/dizzyelk · 1 pointr/Christianity

So far the best book I've read has been Guns, Germs, and Steel. Right now I'm reading Botany of Desire, which is pretty interesting. And after I finish that I think something old-fashioned and cheesy would be nice. So I'm probably going to read Edgar Rice Burroughs's Venus series.

u/Brolly43 · 1 pointr/trees

I believe this is part of a documentary called "The Botany of Desire" based on a book of the same name. It's a really good read, here is the link to it if you're interested, http://www.amazon.com/Botany-Desire-Plants-Eye-View-World/dp/0375760393

u/liquix · 1 pointr/politics

America needs to see Marijuana as a business opportunity, not a problem. We're capitalists, let's not pay taxes to incarcerate someone who could be the taxable consumer of a taxable product of a taxable industry. There are numerous low and high skill jobs directly related. Opportunity means jobs, jobs mean income and stability for America. Obama has blundered on marijuana policy, Mexico's drug war worsens, our economy is bleeding, it's time to try something new.

A new industry is something America needs right now. Tobacco helped build early America, we're no stranger to this system. It's an un-taxed estimated $35-45 billion business opportunity. We don't even have to subsidize it, there's already enough available market to privately fund it anyway. What's the harm to try? Very few living Americans have even lived in a legal drug society. Surely it could not be worse than what we have now. Our drug policy has been failing since it made our own people the enemy. Every year it costs more money, time, and lives. People are dying out in the world because of this prohibition, it's unacceptable. The solution is right there in front of us waiting to be set in motion.

"Big Marijuana" is a scary future indeed, but one much more agreeable than prison. The distribution networks in existence are already pretty local, I imagine it would be challenging to dethrone them were it legalized. It's a flower, time is definitely a factor in transportation. The flower farms of Central America and the US already have sophisticated air transport systems in place so international business may become available in coming years as well. Additionally, industrial hemp would fit perfectly into our existing agriculture industry. If it were legal, any person could grow it in their garden just like they do other flowers. Medical patients in some states already do grow their own, so I'm not worried about a Monsanto-mono-marijuana apocalypse.

It all sounds grandiose, but American industry is a powerhouse. Sometimes we forget that here in reddit internet land. It's easy to feel like we're shit and everything is hopeless in America. For many the basic physiological and safety needs have long been won, instead, love/belonging, esteem and self actualization are the battles to be won. Dynamic and adaptive policy should be a sign of honor, the will of the nation accurately guiding it's destiny. Advanced drug policy is part of the self-actualization process, maybe we're not there yet; I say we are. Other countries are beating us in drug policy and if it's one thing America hates, it's not being first place. I want to sit and laugh at how much money we're making and reminisce the old days of prohibition. I believe in that future, that's why I'm so adamant.

Have you read the Botany of Desire? If big Industry gets a hold of Cannabis like it did Corn, well, it might have been what the plant wanted!

u/BonKerZ · 1 pointr/trees

The Botany of Desire by Michael Pollan.

u/toat · 1 pointr/todayilearned

It was called "Tulip mania" you can read about it here and here some really crazy stuff.

EDIT: srry, didn't actually click the link haha but regardless some further reading if it piques your interest

u/liviyum · 1 pointr/suggestmeabook

Botany of Desire by Michael Pollan

u/req16 · 1 pointr/vegan

> I understand what you're saying about plants, but all I'm saying is that reacting to stimuli in order to flourish does not mean that a plant can "experience" in the same way that animals can.

I didn't say plants and animals experience the same. Obviously they don't, as they don't have brains, nor senses in the way animals do.

Do you think animals do anything differently than react to stimuli? Your response to this post when you read it is already 'decided' at the moment you read it, you're not going to be able to actually do things any differently than your past up to that moment's influences will have you do. This post is stimuli, and you will react accordingly. Just as I can't help but reply :)

> You're conflating "striving for life" with "experiencing life". You were saying that it was good to you that you're alive. It makes no difference to the plant's "psyche" whether it's alive or dead. It has no experience either way.

The plant not experiencing in the way we do does not mean the plant does not have interests. Plants are very interesting, we domesticate them and they likewise domesticate us. The Rose for example is a plant that continued to evolve to appeal to humans to help it survive and spread across the world. There's a lot about this, The Botany of Desire is a very interesting read.

All life acts the same way, replicates, tries to survive as well as it can. Plants and animals both do this, as do other microorganisms, all life does this.

> Not quite. Of course I grant you that life exploits other life, but I don't grant you that this is fine. You are making the value judgment by saying it's okay, and I am disagreeing for reasons that include things like suffering.

I start with nature and when things try to deny inherent aspects of nature I look at them very skeptically.

Why don't you think it's fine that life exploits other life? How can it be any other way?

It's almost like you want nature to exist where nothing dies and nothing suffers?

u/SickSalamander · 1 pointr/biology
u/Kron0_0 · 1 pointr/funny

Well someone read their copy of Botany of Desire

u/virgilatx83 · 1 pointr/sailing

For all knots and uses there is a book called Ashley's book of knot's it has all the knots you need to know and more

Link to the book: https://www.amazon.com/Ashley-Book-Knots-Clifford-W/dp/0385040253

u/bplipschitz · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

All you need is some rope and some knowhow

u/messijoez · 1 pointr/Hammocks

A nice list of hitches, animations of how to tie them, and detailed descriptions, uses, advantages, and disadvantages.

This is the best site for learning how to tie knots I've found. This coupled with my Ashley's book of knots keeps me busy.

If I need something really tight, I generally use a trucker's hitch with an alpine butterfly loop and a bowline. Goes up fast, takes down fast, and doesn't bind too much.

u/zxcvcxz · 1 pointr/AskReddit

The Ashley book of Knots will teach you more about knots and knot tying that you would ever learn in boyscouts.

And if you're interesting in "scouting" check out Scouting on two continents by the scout of all scouts. Seriously cool book. It might make you way more interested in scouting and woodcraft than you were before, and give you ideas what specific areas you want to look into.

u/weedeater64 · 1 pointr/Hammocks

Don't be intimidated by one of the most rewarding parts of camping, ie.. playing around with rope and stuff.

Just get some and start practicing knots, it's big fun and a very useful skill to have.

Check out this site for some decent instructions on setting things up, and even how to make some stuff your self and save gobs of cash.

Two books on knots I can recommend that aren't prohibitively expensive are this and this. That 60 dollar price is wrong, I don't know what's up with that, but that books should be around 16-20 bucks.

Of course this is the 'bible' of knots, though a bit pricier. I don't own it, but wish I'd gotten it instead of those other two.. meh.

A word of warning.. If you start asking about hammocks, someone is going to point you toward the hammock forums. I won't tell you to avoid that forum, but be careful there. There are some dubious characters there, and the forum as a whole will steer you in the wrong direction for sure.

Pick and choose, especially if you have more time than money.

I wouldn't buy anything from any of the members, or any of the 'cottage industries' often linked there. Their ethics being questionable, at best.

u/diegojones4 · 1 pointr/todayilearned

I lived on a sail boat for three years and I had The Ashley Book of Knots No TV, no internet, lots of free time and a book about knots. I think I know a bit. Especially when your life depends on that knot.

u/Bhrunhilda · 1 pointr/knitting

Stich n Bitch was my book of choice. I taught myself to knit with that and the Knitting Answer Book. I keep the latter on hand in my knitting bag in case I forget how to do something.

https://www.amazon.com/Stitch-n-Bitch-Knitters-Handbook/dp/0761128182/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483985552&sr=8-1&keywords=stitch+n+bitch

https://www.amazon.com/Knitting-Answer-Book-Solutions-Question/dp/1580175996

u/iheartmyname · 1 pointr/Frugal

Yeah, it definitely is. Barring a teacher though, I recommend taking a look at knittinghelp.com as they have lots of videos and tutorials on all things knitting. The Stitch n' Bitch book also has very good instructions - it's hell to learn from a book, but I know several people who have learned successfully from this one, lots of cute patterns too.

A frugal lesson tip is to try putting up a craigslist ad to trade something you could teach for knitting lessons. For instance, I've put up a few in my day to trade me teaching knitting lessons for Spanish lessons, and it was fun.

u/balsamic_kitten · 1 pointr/knitting

Welcome to knitting!

I'm still fairly beginner too. I just bought this book - recommended on this sub -and I'm finding it super helpful for all of that knowledge on picking yarn/needles, basic stitches, how to fix mistakes, etc. I wish I'd had it when I first got started.

http://www.amazon.com/Stitch-Bitch-The-Knitters-Handbook/dp/0761128182

Good luck, and have fun!

u/zomboi · 1 pointr/knitting

You are not the only guy that knits. Plenty of men knit. I knit and as far as I know I am a guy, have been knitting for over a decade. I would suggest signing up for a Ravelry account, there is a bunch of male knitters there and thousands of very cool free patterns.

To begin: I would suggest getting the Stitch n Bitch book, it begins out very very basic and the patterns gradually get harder. If you don't understand how to do something youtube or knittinghelp to see a person actually do it. If you still cannot understand how to do it drop into a yarn shop or go to a knitting group (you should be able to find a local one close to you on ravelry or yahoo or meetup.org).

Congrats on being manly enough to knit.

u/gal-crispy · 1 pointr/knitting

You could get a book like Stitch n Bitch, and maybe pick a pattern from it and get the supplies for it. I learned from this book and it was pretty good for the basics. Some of the patterns seem nicer too.

u/TypicalCricket · 1 pointr/tarantulas

Is there a specific one that this community recommends? I also am looking at getting a tarantula in the next few months, and I've seen several different guides.

One that I have heard is quite good is The Tarantula Keepers Guide by Schultz & Schultz. Any other recommendations would be appreciated.

u/PterodactylAdvocate · 1 pointr/tarantulas

I'm new to the hobby, so I don't have a ton of advice. But I just recently bought this guide and it's very thorough! The Tarantula Keeper's Guide . I have 2 juvie new world Ts and two tiny slings I just got. The little guys are a blast to take care of. Do your research and best of luck!

u/Soomple_Pompler · 1 pointr/tarantulas

Please visit www.arachnoboards.com - It is the best source for tarantula husbandry info out there. You will probably need to use the search function to find answers to specific questions, but if you have a question, with any likelihood it has been asked before. Definitely do some more research and get your enclosure setup before buying you spider. Other great sources of info are The Tarantula Keeper's Guide or This book or this one I would highly recommend reading at least one of these before bringing your spider home! Good luck, you're in for a fun time!

u/Ashley_DL87 · 1 pointr/tarantulas

No problem! There is much to learn and this sub is a great place to do it. If you haven't look into getting The Tarantula Keepers Guild :)

u/Pays_in_snakes · 1 pointr/santashelpers

If he's into plants and animals and is really detail-oriented, he might get into something like identifying mushrooms; the best book out there is Mushrooms Demystified and the only other tools you'd need are maybe a soil knife and a magnifying glass.

u/flip69 · 1 pointr/mycology

Well, that's a good thing to be and do

If you're really interested, this is a good book to have

Many fungi are indeed edible and many of those are medicinal along several fronts. It's good to learn about them :D

u/nodochinko · 1 pointr/mycology

I recommend a good region specific mushroom guide if she doesn't have one or Mushrooms Demystified if she doesn't have it. Another good option could be a mushroom knife.

u/TheDrunkenCat · 1 pointr/CasualConversation

If you want to learn more about them, and learn about IDing them, Mushrooms Demystified is a thorough, although a bit dated, discussion of them. If you get more serious into it, I'd recommend finding a more recent and region specific guide on your local fungi, but Arora is a great start.

u/aconitine- · 1 pointr/mildlyinteresting

I believe you need this book in your life !

u/btgeekboy · 1 pointr/pics

I have just the book for you. Better hurry though, only 18 left in stock.

u/kippot · 1 pointr/movies

i feel similarly ! btw, very little is altered from the existing book here

u/Smith-Corona · 1 pointr/turning

Get a copy of R. Bruce Hoadley’s book, Identifying Wood by Taunton Press.

https://www.amazon.com/Identifying-Wood-Accurate-Results-Simple/dp/0942391047

He’s got extensive photos of wood endgrain, the acid test for identifying wood. Face grain can be deceptive but endgrain is like the fingerprint of trees.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/61RPEMNvt7L.jpg

u/gfixler · 1 pointr/woodworking

Two books your brother might love are Understanding Wood by Bruce Hoadley (the "Yep, it's wood" guy), and Workbenches by Christopher Schwarz. Both are chock full of phenomenal information about how wood works and how to work it to suit your needs. I would even recommend the second one to someone who didn't want to build a bench, simply because it gives so much insight into the how and why of woodworking in general.

u/dankostecki · 1 pointr/woodworking
u/solust · 1 pointr/reddit.com

Quick, someone send the scientists this!

u/itismath · 1 pointr/Bushcraft
u/understandunderstand · 1 pointr/gamecollecting

I know a good book.

u/vikktor · 1 pointr/croatia
u/gerp · 1 pointr/reddit.com

no. it's wood, just wood.

u/mezum · 1 pointr/Dogtraining

Congrats, I'd say make sure to set boundaries, and closely watch them to make sure they aren't getting into anything you would consider deviant behavior. It's important to calmly work on correcting it while they go, so it doesn't become a habit you have to try and untrain. I just picked up Dr. Sophia Yin's Perfect Puppy in 7 days, and have a post here about being at my wit's end with the 4 month ACD/Terrior mix I have been trialing. I can't say it's solved all my problems, since I'm either going to give up, or start all over with training, but I really wish I had read her book first. It's not that long, so you should hopefully have time to get through at least the first few chapters which after reading, helped me realize why things have been so frustrating for me.

I was used to cats, and when I brought home the puppy, she was adorable, happy, and mild mannered, so I just let her roam while keeping a constant eye on her. She pretty much developed one bad habit after another, and while trying to push her to get better with DIY training, I was getting nowhere because I was trying to solve several issues without looking at the underlying cause.

u/Veeks · 1 pointr/DogCare
u/batsu · 1 pointr/dogs

I plan on getting a puppy too. I've been reading a great book by Dr Sophia Yin. Although it doesn't cover all your questions, I think her methods seem like a great start.

u/SnarfraTheEverliving · 1 pointr/dogs
u/purplepot01 · 1 pointr/puppy101

I want to second Sophia Yin's book Perfect puppy in 7 days.

About the chewing. You have lots of toys for her which is awesome. If you're not doing this now you may want to try rotating the toys in and out so she doesn't get bored with any of them and continue to redirect like you're doing already. Also, a nice thing for a teething puppy to chew on are frozen things - my pup likes frozen carrots, I think it feels good on their gums. I've also heard about freezing a washcloth and letting them chew on it, that might feel good too. Keep it up, it sounds like you're doing great!

u/gingeredbiscuit · 1 pointr/Dogtraining

Check out Perfect Puppy in 7 Days by Dr. Sophia Yin. But take the title with a grain of salt; training a puppy takes years. An entire dog lifetime, even.

Two more things: letting the dog "cry it out" isn't the best method. If it is a few intermittent barks and he settles down after a minute or two, that's fine, you can continue to ignore the barking and reward when he's quiet - as long as you're only leaving him alone for as long as he can tolerate. What you don't want to do is make him feel like every time he goes into the crate, you abandon him. If he doesn't settle down after a minute or two, or his barking gets worse, or he just sounds like he's in distress, please don't let him cry it out. Teach him to enjoy being in the crate while you are around before you leave him alone in it.

Rather than focusing on a specific timeline with milestones, I'd set some process goals. Like "Train puppy 2 times a day for 5 minutes" or "Reward puppy every time I see him sit, even when I don't ask for it".

And you're right, every dog is different. You may find that, even if he has a hard time learning sit, that he's really great at something else.

u/giro_ · 1 pointr/AustralianShepherd

This is a great book for puppy owners, by Sophia Yin.

http://www.amazon.com/Perfect-Puppy-Days-Start-Right/dp/0964151871

u/Fellinlovewithawhore · 1 pointr/PlantedTank

I find this guide by our fellow redditor useful as a foundation. After that you can just google or youtube for anything more specific.

Sorry missed the part about wanting a natural habitat. In which case i recommed diana walstad's book or google walstad tanks.

u/L3337_H4X0R · 1 pointr/malaysia

>You can get plant from that river what.

Technically yeah your brother is correct. Java fern originated from our own local rivers.

>Uncle: what fish you're rearing? None? What's the point?


Owhh boy, there are tons of beautiful fishes in the planted tank. Guppies and neon cardinal tetras. All of it suitable in our local climate, and if you hardworking enough at keeping the environment stable, guppies and neon tetras can breed more fishes.

I recommend this channel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fv3ih_zLt4Q

James Findley (refer to the guy in the video) usually use top of the line equipment from ADA (aqua design Amano). Expensive for beginner or someone that doesn't have a deep pocket. My suggestion is to cut some of the equipment to a more cheaper alternative. ADA tank is beautiful, but super duper expensive. My recommendation is, get a tank suitable for your budget per square cm. Which mean, get what is the biggest that you can afford, because of the bigger space, the lower the chance of mess up (like overdose fertilizer etc). For soil, ADA still the best for value. Get the Amazonian soil, and get the granular type, not powder as the granular type is less "cloudy" when pouring water.


For plants, get Monte Carlo for carpeting plant. Don't get hemianthus callitrichoides 'Cuba'. From my experience, monte carlo is more forgiving than HC. Monte Carlo can survive without CO2 injection. HC need cooler water and CO2 injection. It is doable for HC to survive in a hot climate like Malaysia, but need a CO2 injection. Monte Carlo is like a big version of HC. Usually, HC is for a nano tank. Owhh yeah, these kinds of plants usually float. So you will need to be careful to anchor them. For java fern, you can anchor to the rock. Java moss you can either glue (use waterproof glue) or better use rope. ADA has a biodegradable rope. I recommend using the rope rather than glue, and ADA rope is cheap IMO.


For CO2, depends on budget. You can DIY (not recommended because it fizzles out quickly in a few weeks), or get proper canister + regulator and solenoid. As I said before, you can get away from not using Co2, especially in Malaysia, as Malaysia has higher rate exchange of O2 and Co2 due to the temperature (don't quote on me, I forget the source). That's why our tropical rainforests are among some of the oldest in the world. As our climate suitable for plant growth (we don't have winter, and tons of perennial species). It translates also to underwater growth from seaweed and local flora. You can get away from Co2 by using some of the plants that are originated from our own backyard. But if you truly interested, I'm recommending this book: https://www.amazon.com/Ecology-Planted-Aquarium-Diana-Walstad/dp/0967377366. But a bit warning, without CO2, the growth rate is slower than using Co2 injection. So need to be patient, and cannot overdose on fertilizer. Need to keep that in mind. Fertilizer is like a vitamin. Better low dosage than overdose. I recommend Seachem Flourish. If you want to keep red plants, you must buy the iron supplement. But for a beginner, just get the balance (NPK is the exact ratio like 10:10:10 with trace elements). ADA also have their own fertilizer, but you will need to check their local price. I'm using DIY method because I've already had my own liquid fertilizer from Serbajadi. Serbajadi also has liquid fertilizer intended for a normal household plant, but the ratio of NPK is super duper high (21:21:21) with trace elements. This is too high for the aquarium and if you are not careful, algae will grow rapidly in this setup. I'm preferring this method as it is cheaper than buying top of the line aquarium fertilizer as I have my own plants (chilies, tomatoes). So usually I dilute the fertilizer and shower the plants and use the rest for the aquarium.


Buy also API freshwater masterkit. Expensive, but worth every ringgit. Why? You can test almost every metrics available, from PH to water hardiness. Our local tap water PH usually ranges from 7 to 8. A bit "hard". So keep that in mind to always check the source water. Not only that, you can use the kit for a nonspecific test that is not aquarium related. For example, testing local river water quality (for fishing).


Filtration. Get an Eheim filter if you can afford it. I'm dead serious. My Eheim filter still running for 2 years. Most of the cheap filter dead less than a year. Some anecdotal review stated Eheim filter can last up to 10 years. That's how quality it is. It is super duper quiet and you literally can sleep beside it and not hear a single decibel. If you prefer overhang type, get the Fluval. Cheaper and if you get the C4 version, it has tons of filtration. If you literally broke, just use cheap pump and overhang box. Or better still, DIY like this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hL271pKi_qY

Don't sacrifice filter or not using a filter in the setup. As a good aquarium need a good filtration and water movement to facilitate bacteria growth and gas exchange/diffusion of Co2 and O2. Don't believe any videos that showcase aquarium without a filter. Also, the filter can act as a vacuum pump for mosquito larvae, a problem in Malaysia that Aedes mosquito like to breed in fresh, clear and clean water. A stagnating water is good breeding ground for mosquito. Keep that in mind.


For lighting, get an LED lamp. Cheaper actually using LED as it uses less watt and less heat issue. Get the full spectrum 6500K version for freshwater. DONT get the blue spectrum LED. That lamp usually for a saltwater tank. I believe in Mid Valley shopping mall, there is an aquarium shop on the top floor. And it has tons of aquarium light selection. You can buy online if you like. But a bit cautious buying lamp from China, please ensure you get proper voltage and proper ballast. If you too afraid to dive into thousands of LED selection, I'm suggesting for you to get an Ikea lamp desk that has an E26 socket. And use LED bulb 6500K from Phillips. Hang it over the tank. Same thing, and you can change the bulb whenever you like. Also get a timer. I'm suggesting about 4 to 6 hours daily light. Don't over 12 hours. Trust me. Algae can grow much quicker than plants. More exposure of light means more algae can outgrow the plants. Also, most of those videos don't tell you this, but for the first few weeks, you cannot put fishes or shrimp in the tanks. The filter and the biodiversity still cannot support the additional load of fish. This is called nitrogen cycle: http://freshwater-aquarium-passion.blogspot.com/2010/10/nitrogen-cycle-for-dummies.html


That's where the API master kit is useful. You can test the water parameter until it is stable. Usually, it takes one week. If you have any more questions, feel free to join on https://np.reddit.com/r/PlantedTank/. Good luck.

u/Elhazar · 1 pointr/PlantedTank

If you want to save money, Chihiros A-Series + the metal stand will work well. Otherwise, Finnex lights such as the 24/7+ are often recommended in this subreddit.

This article explains the basics of light in the planted aquarium well enough so that you can make your own judgement. If you have trouble understanding something, feel free to ask.

And just to complete your shopping tour, The Ecology Of The Planted Aquarium by Diana Walstad explain the biological processes inside an aquarium an great detail and is very useful for an in-depth understanding.

u/MR_clunk · 1 pointr/PlantedTank

I'm not sure how this sub feels about referral/affiliate links, but that one definitely has one. I see that there is mention of 'no url shorteners' in the sidebar rules. Here's the direct link

u/Ineffably_Sublime · 1 pointr/Aquariums

I'm confused. How do you define "dirt?" I call it a dirt tank, because I used a topsoil made up of decomposed organic matter that is specifically sold to grow plants; it definitely contains suitable amounts of nutrients to allow plants to grow and thrive. Peat is the primary ingredient in this topsoil because as it decomposes it does not produce nitrates and phosphates as fast as a guano based topsoil will. The "dirt" is under the sand cap preventing it from mucking up the water and intentionally preventing high amounts of water circulation through the substrate. This allows anaerobic bacteria colonies to grow that will break down the solid fish waste and other pollutants not broken down by the bacteria living in the filter. The shrimp and MTSnails help support the process by burrowing through the top layers of the substrate. The way I understand it, in a dirt tank the anaerobic bacteria, deep in the substrate, are as important as the aerobic bacteria that live in the filter media.

The intent is to create, as closely as I can, a self sustaining biotope as described in "The Ecology of the Planted Aquarium" by Diana Walstad. Because I want more than 2 fish and a few shrimp and snails I use the filter and perform regular small water changes to reduce the overall bioload. This is why I consider my tank a "modified Walstad."

Oh, I test my water parameters religiously. I'd not want to let this run weeks without testing or water changes. It is still very immature for a Walstad style tank.

u/lachlanlikesathing · 1 pointr/Jarrariums

I only started with my jar a few months ago, but here's what I've learnt. I knew going in that a jarrarium would be a bit of a challenge in some ways, but now I understand what makes it so. With such a tiny amount of water in the jar, any small change can lead to big changes in water chemistry. Most aquarium chemicals (should you need to use them) are made to dose larger tanks, and as such you basically have to measure out drops with an eyedropper / syringe to use them in a jar. You have to think a lot about your inputs into the jar in terms of light, temperature, nutrients, etc. because introducing something in excess might cause algae blooms, plant or fauna distress, etc. And it's very easy to do things in excess because, again, it's such a tiny jar.

That said, my jar seems to be going okay so far and I've learnt a lot about the chemical / biological processes in an aquarium that I think I might have missed if I was trying to set up a larger tank. Diana Walstad's book helped a lot too - the whole book, not just the PDF linked in this sidebar. If you are slightly obsesssive like me, don't mind having a jar that might have a bunch of weird things growing in it, and are happy to take things very slowly, a jarrarium is fun!

u/TheKolbrin · 1 pointr/PlantedTank

You are welcome! I learned it from this.

u/Scalare · 1 pointr/Aquariums

That's also very open ended. Very doable though; with a bit of research.

Check out Tropica's website; it's got a pretty good catalog that sorts plants by difficulty, and also a bit of a care guide and a bunch of demo photos for inspiration.

Here's an article that goes over the basics of aquascaping. The guy who wrote that also has a bunch of other articles demoing different styles.

If you want to learn the science behind planted tanks, find a copy of Diana Walstad's 'Ecology of the Planted Aquarium'. She's got a method for doing low maintenance planted tanks that's quite popular.

u/jellofiend84 · 1 pointr/Dogtraining

There is a great book on treating resource guarding: Mine! A Practical Guide to Resource Guarding in Dogs https://www.amazon.com/dp/0970562942/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XcrLxb75DWME5

I suspect you are correct about where he got the behavior from, if he was in a home with other dogs and they were fed close together rather than in separate rooms it could lead to issues.

The important thing is not to push your dog, a growl is unpleasant but it is how dogs can tell us "back off" before having to escalate to something like biting or snapping. You shouldn't punish growling, that will only lead to dogs escalating to something more severe like biting without giving you any warning.

u/1Saya · 1 pointr/shiba

Have you taught leave it and drop it? Both good things to work on. Coarse start with low value items. Worked well with my boxer she has even dropped a deer bone a coyote left in the field. Which before she'd get all upset.

Resource guarding is natural behavior some dogs do it more than others. It can be with space, toys, and commonly food especially high value food.

Whats more awesome than steak.. Saya my shiba loves meat.. she is raw fed so she could tell ya it's yummy. She does not resource guard, but my boxer does. I've worked on her leave it, drop it and on trading for it. She has improved over time.

This book covers resource guarding I'd recommend checking the book out.
https://www.amazon.com/Mine-Practical-Guide-Resource-Guarding/dp/0970562942

u/bockwursti · 1 pointr/Dogtraining

Def try to get this book: http://www.amazon.com/Mine-Practical-Guide-Resource-Guarding/dp/0970562942/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1405423672&sr=8-2&keywords=jean+donaldson

It's great input and contains detailed training plans.

For the meantime avoid strangers playing with him.

u/CleverPet_Official · 1 pointr/dogs

Hey there! I would recommend you check out Dr. McConnell's book on separation anxiety. It is a short read and available from Amazon for $5. It can take a bit of work and several weeks, but it is well worth it. You can consider using your CleverPet Hub to keep them busy once your departure does not bring them over-threshold. Here is where you can find the book: https://www.amazon.com/Ill-Home-Soon-Separation-Anxiety/dp/1891767054/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1506700688&sr=8-3&keywords=separation+anxiety+dog+book

u/croissantemergency · 1 pointr/Dogtraining

Ugh, that's hard. Have you tried food (especially wet, smelly food) instead of toys/chews? It could be a little more irresistible and buy you some time. The best guide I know for separation anxiety is Patricia McConnell's I'll Be Home Soon. It's been a long time since I've read it, but I think she recommends something similar - lots of practice leaving, just for a couple of seconds, building up to longer and longer.
My dog had pretty bad separation anxiety when I got her - wouldn't let me out of her sight, threw herself at the blinds/door/whatever, constant whining and barking, but a lot of it faded naturally within about a month. I think a lot of rescues have this issue at first, but if it gets worse, or if she's going to hurt herself (not just eating blankets, but chewing her own paws or chewing metal crate bars), she might need medication in order to cope.

u/mandym347 · 1 pointr/aww

It's true that most people don't know how to read dog body language very well, so a lot of signs of stress and discomfort go ignored or misunderstood. In many cases, this misunderstanding is made worse by the human anthropomorphizing the dog's behavior.

But you're right to be skeptical of random internet strangers; there's a lot of misinformation out there, so it's always good to be critical to some degree. Check out this article by Turid Rugaas called Calming Signals: The Art of Survival. It mentions smiling toward the end. Rugaas has a good book called On Talking Terms with Dogs.

u/JcWoman · 1 pointr/Greyhounds

It's not uncommon for newly retired greyhounds to have separation anxiety. They're never alone in the racing kennels. They've been torn from everything that's familiar and put somewhere unfamiliar and likely all by himself for periods of time. (Most of us have to work or go to school.) This is a very good (small) book that gives you steps to teach your grey how to tolerate being home alone: https://www.amazon.com/Ill-Home-Soon-Separation-Anxiety/dp/1891767054

u/alithia · 1 pointr/dogs

The why is tricky because it varies from situation to situation - can you account for her training/socialization/etc prior to you having her? A lot of that stuff is developed in that first year.

The NILIF (Nothing in Life is Free) lifestyle is great for dogs that resource guard, because it teaches them that all good things come from you. Make sure you manage the environment so that she can't guard (pick up all toys, food, etc). In regard to people, obedience is the best bet, a solid leave it command, or go to bed can help alleviate these.

MINE! is a great book resource for possessive behaviours.

u/aveldina · 1 pointr/Dogtraining

To second this, we use the same approach with an otherwise healthy foster dog who refuses to eat what is offered. We get donated food for foster dogs, I am not about to go out and buy expensive dog food unless there is a medical reason to do so. I'm not reimbursed unless it's vet recommended.

I put the food down, dog gets five minutes to show interest. Only longer if eating in a crate. Walk away from the food and I pick it up. That simple. You see this a lot in fat dogs that have trained people to give them table scraps, etc. Eventually, they'll figure it out.

All things good and all reinforcement comes from me. There's a book out there called "Mine!" that I've heard good things from others who have had to deal with resource guarding. http://www.amazon.ca/Mine-Practical-Guide-Resource-Guarding/dp/0970562942

u/nicedoglady · 1 pointr/reactivedogs

There are over the counter supplements and products you can try that may help such as: adaptil, calming care probiotic, zylkene, solliquin (l-theanine). They can help take the edge off for some anxious, stressed out, or freaked out dogs but they aren't true behavior medications.

When was the last time that the vet was consulted about medications? Does the vet know the real extent of these behaviors or were they downplayed a bit? At the end of the day, vets are not behavioral experts. I would recommend seeking out different opinions with a vet with behavioral knowledge and experience, or consult a veterinary behaviorist because its unfair to the cats, to you and your partner, and the dog to have this sort of stress in your day to day. If you want to pursue medication options, a Board Certified Veterinary Behaviorist is a vet who has gone through additional behavior residency and has the best range of knowledge to prescribe, combine, taper on/off and transition medications.

The alpha thing is bunk nonsense in dog-human relationships. When you try to 'correct' her or try to get her to listen she's most likely just afraid and nervous and not as familiar with you, so she is running to the person she finds most comforting and trusts more. What region are you in? Perhaps there is a trainer or resource we can recommend to help.

I also read in your comments that you work from home and are therefore with her all the time - I'm betting that this is really, really exacerbating things. Its hard to work, relax, chill, have a good relationship with a dog that is putting you on edge all day and night! Have you explained this to your partner? Does he truly realize how challenging and exhausting this can be? I went through the same thing when we first adopted our dog because I was freelancing from home and with her 24/7 for nearly a year. It drove me bonkers and I was on edge - turned me into a reactive human! I recommend just taking a step back and finding an activity you and the dog enjoy doing together and spend some silly quality time with her. Could be blowing bubbles, cuddling, playing with some toy, making dumb noises, whatever.

And lastly - this is a really good, short read on Resource Guarding, which seems to be one of the primary issues you are dealing with. It is one of the most highly regarded resources on this issue so I would strongly recommend giving it a read!

u/sockgaze · 1 pointr/Dogtraining

This is a wonderful book that goes through the calming signals of dogs. There's plenty more that happens before a dog bites, much more than growling.

Essentially, a dog will bite because they feel they cannot escape the situation otherwise. Both situations you mentioned involved a tremendous lack of space!

Your trainer is correct that lip-licking can a sign of stress. She doesn't sound very well-versed in applying her knowledge though. BTW, dogs do NOT like hugs. It's pretty common for a child to go in for a hug, and be bitten. Be blunt to strangers--don't let them touch your dog.

u/SteveBro89 · 1 pointr/woodworking

I used Chris Schwartz's book, found here on amazon.

Great book, and an interesting read. Includes schematics and some very helpful step-by-step information.

u/ChedaChayz · 1 pointr/woodworking

I didn't really follow plans, per se, but I did read Workbenches: From Design And Theory To Construction And Use and The Workbench Design Book Both by Christopher Schwarz. After studying these, I had all the design elements in mind and worked it out as I went along...which worked out for the most part, but I had a few hiccups due to lack of planning along the way.

The hardware is Benchcrafted, and they have plans too, which are popular, but I didn't use them.

u/AMillionMonkeys · 1 pointr/woodworking

Chris Schwarz, who's one of the contemporary popularizers of hand tool woodworking, wrote a book where he tried to figure out the minimal kit he needed: The Anarchist's Tool Chest. He also wrote a popular book about benches which contains instructions for two different models. You'll need a decent bench and one of those is a sensible first project if you're really committed. If you don't want to make something that big to start off with the book has lots of good info on what features a bench needs so you can modify what you already have.

u/velcommen · 1 pointr/woodworking
u/DarthVaderLovesU · 1 pointr/woodworking

In Chris Schwarz' Workbench book, pages 14-17 are what you're looking for. Talks a bunch about SYP and alternatives, but ultimately he says it isn't that big of a deal what species you use.

Check here to see if there's any nearby: http://www.southernpine.com/

What are the 2x10s made out of by you? Douglas Fir would also be a great alternative.

u/ryanmercer · 1 pointr/collapse
u/mr_jankings · 1 pointr/preppers
u/hanicappergeneral · 1 pointr/shrooms

you can pick them as soon as the veils start to break, they wont get any bigger. They will just open more and begin to start releasing spores. the reason is that they are most potent at this point (how much more potent is arguable). If you are not making spore prints, i would pick them as soon as the veil breaks, but it wont hurt anything to let them open. if this is your first grow I recommend letting a few open all the way just to see the process.

This book is highly recommended and help me through my first few grows: https://www.amazon.com/Growing-Gourmet-Medicinal-Mushrooms-Stamets/dp/1580081754


Be very careful using Reddit a resource for mushrooms, I have seen horrible information and really bad advise on here.

send me a message if you have any more questions.

u/fatsu · 1 pointr/mycology

I use Stamets Growing Gourmet and Medicinal Mushrooms . What substrate are you using? How did you prepare it? What form of inoculation did you use?

u/GreenStrong · 1 pointr/WTF

I don't actually know a lot about it, I've grown a couple batches, and read Paul Stamets huge book on the matter. But Stamets is most focused on farm scale cultivation, only a bit on log culture. Basically, to make your own loaf type thing would require a cleanroom and autoclave, although you could make small ones in a pressure cooker. Oyster mushrooms are hardier, pouring boiling water over sawdust is good enough for them. Or you could drill holes in fresh logs and put inoculated sawdust inside. This is cheap, natural, and reliable, but in that scenario the fungus decides when to fruit.

Field and Forest has some good basic instructions, especially the links at the bottom of the page. Include a heavy duty corded drill in the budget for the project, green oak is tough.

u/flavor8 · 1 pointr/Permaculture

Grab a copy of this: http://www.amazon.com/Growing-Gourmet-Medicinal-Mushrooms-Stamets/dp/1580081754/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1324996206&sr=8-1 I received a copy for xmas, and it's close to encyclopedic.

Good tip on getting coffee grounds; I'll check w/ my local 'bucks.

u/Drumlin · 1 pointr/gardening

Paul Stamets' (arguably the world's leading mycologist) "Growing Gourmet and Medicinal Mushrooms."

Also, check out his TED talk. Not much on growing, but cool stuff about mushrooms, nonetheless.

u/pfmka · 1 pointr/AskReddit
u/killing1sbadong · 1 pointr/MushroomGrowers

Welcome!

I'm not sure what kind of mushrooms you are interested in, but I would say the simplest way of starting to grow gourmet mushrooms would be purchasing a pre-colonized mushroom kit. These are usually only a week or two from producing fruits and will minimize the chances that you will get contamination.

I haven't purchased from them, but something like Fungi Perfecti's indoor mushroom growing kits (link) would likely be a good starting point. This will give you an idea if you like the most straightforward parts of the hobby.

If you find that you enjoy that and find which mushrooms you want to grow more seriously, you can move on from there.

If you want to get more information, a lot of books by Paul Stamets are considered required reading, such as Growing Gourmet and Medicinal Mushrooms. There is a ton of information in these, but if you've already gotten an idea of what kind of mushrooms you like, you can find a ton of information about each mushroom in this. A lot of excerpts from this are also available on the shroomery.org pages for different mushroom growing parameters.

I hope that this is useful. Feel free to ask any questions! I'm definitely new around here, but it's definitely been a welcoming community.

u/Crskub · 1 pointr/mycology

You did not trouble me at all, please keep researching because there is lots of good information on here and you may come a crossed and expert who could really help you more. I would recommend you order this book from your local library “ Growing Gourmet and Medicinal Mushrooms” by Paul Stamets

Amazon link:
Growing Gourmet and Medicinal Mushrooms https://www.amazon.com/dp/1580081754/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pNRIBbYJKPYP1

YouTube video: of Paul Stamets and Joe Rogan interview
https://youtu.be/mPqWstVnRjQ

u/invertedjenny · 1 pointr/gardening

Second what u/GrandmaGos says. Companion planting is mostly folklore. I do a little of it myself but I always plant my rosemary with carrots, lavender next to onions, and basil with tomatoes. But it also attracts pollinators which is important.

My mom had a community garden for a large group of kids in a local summer day camp program. Our favorites were strawberries and carrots. Most kids hated veggies and growing their own and seeing how sweet home-grown carrots were made a huge impression on a lot of kids.

For reading, I recommend Raised Bed Revolution, I got some really great plans from that book that look very nice. I also like Square Foot Gardening if you haven't read that already.

Since its a library you're at, is there anyway for the summer you could have little garden craft classes for the kids? That could be fun and keep them interested / invested. Have crafts like painting stones with the names of all the plants for plant markers. Learn about local wildflowers to attract pollinators?

u/tripleione · 1 pointr/gardening

If you're looking for a vegetable gardening book, my favorite one is Square Foot Gardening by Mel Bartholomew. It's got everything you need to know about successfully starting and growing a basic vegetable garden from scratch.

I think the best part about this book is that the methods explained in it are pretty much a fool-proof way of growing great plants the very first time. As you gain more first-hand experience, you can start to add, remove or tweak things that make will improve your garden even more.

u/pneradactyll · 1 pointr/gardening

Square foot gardening is a game changer. Your local library will have a copy, and it's a quick read. A very small square foot garden plot (which you have space for) fed 2 of us all season.

u/itsrattlesnake · 1 pointr/DIY

It looks great, but I have criticism:

  1. It'll be a bitch cutting grass around it. Even with a weedeater, those interior angles will be hard to get cleanly cut.

  2. I really like the square foot gardening approach to raised beds and this makes that much more complicated.
u/soccermomjane · 1 pointr/gardening

a good way to get into vegetable gardening is to try square foot gardening. you do not have to use a fancy raised bed, it can be made with cinderblocks but the methods are great for a beginner since it is all outlined in this book. Mel Bartholomew has a proven method that is easy to follow and does not require much in the way of supplies other than soil and seeds.

u/sunpoprain · 1 pointr/gardening

This is an amazing book for learning what can fit where. Remember that it is more for advanced gardeners so start small. Use it as a guide on long term plans.

This is a great guide to low-cost or free soil creation/amendment It also has a great guide to growing almost every veggie/herb. It works amazingly as a substitution for the very expensive recommended soil in This great guide to planting closer together to avoid weeds

Some ideas for reducing water usage:

Sub-Irrigation (there are a great many ways to do this, this is just one)

Hugelkultur Looks like shit but creates an amazing wood "sponge" under your gardens. After 2 years you pretty much don't need to water again (if done correctly). You also get a constant stream of nutrients from the wood breaking down. It is possible to "contain" hugelkultur beds to create more of a "I mean to do this!" order so people don't think you are just piling shit up everywhere.

u/ta1901 · 1 pointr/gardening
  1. Does your raised bed have a wood bottom? It should not. Roots need to go down deeper.
  2. Please look into the book Square Foot Gardening. It really helps with layout, and other issues, for beginners.
  3. You MUST water your veggies every day temps reach 80F. If the leaves are wilted, they are under a lot of stress and are begging for water.

u/scififan444 · 1 pointr/gardening

Square Foot Gardening can be a good way to get started with raised beds. It has suggestions for plants, spacing and what to fill your beds with. There's also a helpful book.

Over all, just keep in mind that you want to start with what you can handle, what you like to eat, and maybe 1 or 2 things to experiment with. :)

For herbs, make sure you understand which ones come back every year and which ones (like mint!) tend to spread so you don't end up with a mess a couple years down the road.

Oh, and for filling for your raised bed, if you have a garden store or nursery near you they will sell and deliver dirt/compost/etc to fill your bed with. Hardware stores also often provide the same services.

u/salziger · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon
  • I have a zoology degree too so that's a fantastic major :) Part of getting my degree included taking a Parasitology class. We had to do a lab about tapeworms, which meant extracting tapeworms from the intestines of a critter (don't want to go into too much detail...). The next day during lecture, our professor came in with a thermos and proceeded to scoop out long, white, stringy tapeworms, then EAT THEM! The whole class was freaking out when he started giggling and told us they were Ramen noodles. It was a class I will never forget no matter how much I'd like to!

  • Most wonderful time

  • Best of luck to you in your studies!

  • In the school of life, I'm trying to learn more about gardening. This book would help me in my studies and to be a more efficient gardener. Thank you for the contest :)
u/d20wilderness · 1 pointr/UrbanHomestead

I highly recommend Gaia's Garden a guide to home scale scale permaculture. It's not specifically homesteading, it's permaculture, but it is a way to supercharge the efficiency of your food production with the leist inputs.
https://www.amazon.com/Gaias-Garden-Guide-Home-Scale-Permaculture/dp/1603580298

u/BlueLinchpin · 1 pointr/gardening

You should check out Gaia's Garden or a similar permaculture book. As others have said, there's ways to protect your plants without relying on herbicides or weed pulling! :)

Namely, what I've read is that you should plant cover crops that will fight your weeds for you.

Good luck and grats on the baby!

u/gardenerd · 1 pointr/gardening

Have a go at Gaia's garden, home scale permaculture design.

It's the textbook in this permaculture class.

u/TheYogi · 1 pointr/news

Good for you! I suggest picking up this book: http://www.amazon.com/Gaias-Garden-Home-Scale-Permaculture-Edition/dp/1603580298/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377806599&sr=8-1&keywords=gaia%27s+garden It's a great place to start and may very well change the way you think.

u/DabsMcDuck · 1 pointr/Horticulture

right fertilizer is made readily available via protozoa and nematoads. and other beneficial bacteria dying and the rhizosphere uptakes said nutrient from fertilizer. but i think he was looking for a simple answer.

edit: I highly recommend this book https://www.amazon.ca/Teaming-Microbes-Organic-Gardeners-Revised/dp/1604691131

u/NotAMonsantoSpy · 1 pointr/Permaculture

You're definitely wise to approach things as a skeptic. I was talking with a fellow permie once about all kinds of permie things, and I thought they seemed quite rational. Then, they started talking about energy healing. That was a "smile and nod" moment. I swear, we're mostly sane.

Teaming with Microbes and Teaming with Nutrients might be helpful books to check out. They don't directly address mineral accumulation, but it explains the processes through with accumulation occurs, if that makes sense. They're very thorough books that will make you wish you had paid more attention in Bio 101, but they're written in an engaging way.

This study is on bioaccumulation, though they're testing for heavy metals and not nutritional value. Maybe their methods are explained.

As far as comfrey goes, I know it dredges up minerals from the subsoil with its remarkably long roots. As the leaves die, they decompose on the ground and the minerals become available in the topsoil, which then makes those minerals available to other plants who don't have such deep roots.

Legumes, however, have bacteria colonies surrounding their roots that make nitrogen from the air available to the plant. When the plant dies, it decomposes and then the air-harvested nitrogen becomes available in the soil. Usually, we innoculate legume plantings with the bacteria. It occurs naturally in soil, but may not necessarily be present in every square foot of soil. So, better to be safe than sorry.

u/mumrah · 1 pointr/gardening

Highly recommend reading Teaming with Microbes [1] for those interested in how plants actually take up nutrients and fixate nutrients in the soil. Bacteria and fungi are actually your best "companions" in the garden.


  1. http://www.amazon.com/Teaming-Microbes-Organic-Gardeners-Revised/dp/1604691131
u/infsmwetrust · 1 pointr/gardening

Two very popular and highly recommended books. Check out the amazon reviews.

Teeming with Microbes to learn about the soil food web: http://www.amazon.com/Teaming-Microbes-Organic-Gardeners-Revised/dp/1604691131

The Well Tended Perennial Garden for ornamental gardening: http://www.amazon.com/The-Well-Tended-Perennial-Garden-Techniques/dp/0881928038

u/tiny_chicago · 1 pointr/gardening

Mel's book is great. However, I think he's very optimistic about spacing. It may be theoretically possible to plant things at those intervals, but a new garden plot needs a few years to develop the biodiversity it needs to achieve peak productivity.

I didn't use much other than Mel's book my first year. I think Teaming With Microbes is essential reading. If you understand soil, you'll understand your plants. Building Soils Naturally is also a good one and it's a little less dry.

I'll also say that Mel's "soil mix" did not work well for me at all. I don't have abundant sources of organic matter available, so I took his suggestion to mix 5 types of store-bought compost. I don't think commercial compost is a sufficient replacement for the homemade stuff. Perhaps if you mix it together with a small amount of homemade compost and let it decay for awhile, it would be better.

That said, plenty of people have success following Mel's book to a T, so your mileage may vary.

u/moonshiver · 1 pointr/trees

“Teaming with Microbes” is a great introduction for everybody— very cool to see results from your education!

u/rez9 · 1 pointr/gardening

Hmm... Teaming with Microbes looks good. I might give it a read.

u/jowla · 1 pointr/gardening

Short answer: Yes, Use compost tea.
Long Answer: This book

This article by Dr. Elaine Ingrahm is a pretty good intro to the process. She's one of the leading experts on the soil food web, and was essentially the inspiration for the above mentioned book.

Good luck!

u/elbiot · 1 pointr/Frugal

cucurbits tend to cross and usually whatever squash you grow doesn't look like the one you got the seeds from, unless the seed saver took measures to restrict pollination. Not sure how wide a variety of squashes a pumpkin will breed with.

I would recommend this awesome book

u/_nagem_ · 1 pointr/Permaculture

The statement might start a flamewar in more intense tomato forums, but unless the tomato is a cherry or potato-leaved variety (Edit: or hybrid, which is a whole other can of worms!), the flower self pollinates before opening. See here or Seed to Seed an awesome book that howtosaveseeds.com references frequently.

u/superkash · 1 pointr/Cheap_Meals

Hmm, this is not a dumb question at all. I actually got a book

http://www.amazon.com/Seed-Growing-Techniques-Vegetable-Gardeners/dp/1882424581

and used it as my primary reference.

do you have anything specific in mind?

u/LordGrump · 1 pointr/Dogtraining

Check out Patricia McConnell's "I'll Be Home Soon" booklet. http://www.patriciamcconnell.com/store/I-ll-Be-Home-Soon.html
It's $8. As a trainer, I love Patricia McConnell because she is so clear and easy to understand. Give the book a try, you won't regret it and your pup will be so much happier.
I also found it for $3 used on Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/Ill-Home-Soon-Separation-Anxiety/dp/1891767054/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371008865&sr=8-1&keywords=patricia+mcconnell+ill+be+home+soon

u/AffinityForToast · 1 pointr/dogs

It's not a matter of trust; don't make this into a personal thing. It's not because of my ego or whatever that I bring this up and it's not because of my credentials that you should believe me. All you had to do was Google "isolation distress" to realize that that's not a term I made up and is widely used among dog training and behavior professionals. And, again, it's a commonly ill-defined term. I'm not saying you in particular are extraordinarily confused or that you didn't pick up the definition from a professional.

Since you seem to love credentials, here is what Pat Miller (one of the world's leading dog trainers and behavior consultants) has to say in Whole Dog Journal:

> The distinction between “isolation” and “separation” is equally important. Isolation distress means the dog doesn’t want to be left alone - any ol’ human will do for company, and sometimes even another dog will fill the bill. True separation distress or anxiety means the dog is hyper-bonded to one specific person, and continues to show stress behaviors if that person is absent, even if other humans or dogs are present.

Patricia McConnell's book on separation anxiety, "I'll be Home Soon", also addresses this difference although this particular resource is not available for free. Again, since you love credentials, Dr. McConnell is a CAAB and one of the foremost experts in her field of ethology (the study of animal behavior).

Anyway, I don't want to go on about this because it's not relevant to OP's thread, but just consider why you're being bullheaded about this. If somebody presents you with information you didn't previously have, maybe you could think about it for a second before snapping back, "No, you're definitely wrong; I've worked with a behaviorist before thankyouverymuch."

u/couper · 1 pointr/puppy101

Can you afford to put him in daycare everyday while you work on the separation anxiety? Then practice "fake" leaving and your leaving routine to get him OK with you getting ready and leaving for a very short amount of time.

This book is really helpful for pups with separation anxiety and is a very short read.

u/capnfluffybunny · 1 pointr/dogs

Sorry for the delayed response! Our aussie was only destructive if he was left outside, and trying to get back inside. He's inside with use when we're home, and I think his anxiety was worse by not being in his comfortable place (inside). The two biggest things for us were getting him plenty of exercise, and also training him to be alone and be happy.

For separation anxiety, theres a good book that's cheap on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Ill-Home-Soon-Separation-Anxiety/dp/1891767054/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1539894781&sr=8-7&keywords=separation+anxiety+book

We followed this to the letter for about a month and made amazing progress. Now that it's been about 6 months we still give him a kong every time we leave, but for the most part he's ok being alone. Having a camera to check in on him while we're gone was also critical leading up to the longer durations of being alone as well. I'd say it took a solid 3 months before we could comfortably leave the house for 2-3 hours and leave the dog alone and not worry about him. We also bring him to doggy day care about once a week which helps with his energy levels.

u/Pseudaelurus · 1 pointr/Dogtraining

Have you only had him for 2 months? He could be just getting comfortable enough to be showing separation anxiety. Even if it is not the cause, going through exercises to help with SA could be beneficial for him.

The book "I'll be home soon" by Patricia McConnell is a great resource.