(Part 2) Best crafts & sewing arts according to redditors

A bit expensive for my taste, but then again if you're really mad you might just splurge on this outrageous prank prop and irresponsibly take away part of your carefully made budget.

Subversive Cross Stitch: 50 F*cking Clever Designs for Your Sassy Side https://www.amazon.com/dp/1576877558/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_muPgDbG7JJ4PH

Here's an image of a print-and-play (cardstock, laminated, corner-cut) I did. I used one of my Kadomaru Pro cutters. Great device! (It's not heavy duty like that other link, but I did try something heavier duty and messed up a few cards as they didn't cut right. That's just the one brand, though, not the one someone else linked to here.)

I never knew I needed this until today. Amazon link for convenience:

Fake Outlet Stickers ($8.99 for 12 @ Amazon)

Yep.

If you want to be REALLY evil, buy these the next time you fly and put a few of them up around the airport.

Better yet, if you're flying with one or more other people, give each person a few of them and have a contest to see whose stickers (the ones that each person places) can trick the most people.

First off WELCOME TO THE TIME/MONEY BLACKHOLE !!
As a fellow Tau player I just have to correct something, they arent robots. Theres little fish face alien fuckers in those suits.
Yes they are fantastically awesome !
If you hit your local shop on weekends you will very likely find people who will be incredibly nice to you and will be very happy to help you learn to paint. This is usually a great bunch of fanboys and we love talking to newbies :) My son will talk for hours on how awesome orks are and his buddie will tell me how amazing Chaos is. I play Tau, Space Marines, Eldar & Necrons. oh i'm 47 so the habit will last your lifetime.
As for what equipment, I suggest an exacto knife for removing tiny bits of plastic. A task light with a magnifying glass is awesome. A good set of brushes & an Army painter kit. Links are below. Paint scheme... dude they are all awesome. What do YOU want ? Dont go crazy at first. start simple, 3 colors and basic bases. As you get better you can add details. Please post photos of your progress and never be afraid to ask questions
For the greater good !

Light - https://www.amazon.com/Spectrum-Daylight-Magnifier-3-Diopter-VS01222B/dp/B00DJG9DFA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1493865330&sr=8-2&keywords=task+light+magnifier

Paint - https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Warpaints-Mega-Paint/dp/B01MTXRUUT/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493865371&sr=8-1&keywords=army+painter+set

Brushes - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M7UFLP5/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Speakers will make your life so much better. I'd recommend getting a shower speaker too, your flatmates will love you.

A door stop is the right answer.

If you get a memory foam mattress topper your life will be so much better. It makes any bed amazing, and, although they aren't particularly cheap, they can last a very long time. I have this one

Get some good quality pens and books of paper. You don't want the refil pads as they always fall apart sooner or later, get some which have metal binding on one side. For pens I always got a box of these or these. They make the vast amounts of notes you need to take much better.

Don't buy the recommended reading until you have checked how many copies the library has. There's a good chance you'll be able to read them enough without paying for them, or search Bookname.pdf into google and it will probably be there.

Pint glasses are very useful things to have, but I found it added a nice touch to my flat if they were all borrowed from pubs.

get a multipack of playing cards on the cheap from amazon. You'll probably get through a fair few packs in first year. Some poker chips were a nice thing to own as well. In 3rd year I got Cards Against humanity as well, and it is a very good game for predrinks

Get minimum 1 good frying pan, 1 good saucepan, a good wooden chopping board, a good chefs knife, a baking sheet, and a colander.

Get a bottle opener like this one and you will have hours of fun pinging the caps at people

I didn't use mine much in 1st year, but all the other years of uni my bike was a great thing to have. It allows you to shop further away (so cheaper) and reduces your reliance on public transport. It also means you can get out of your area of the city occasionally, which is nice.

A french press means you can make a whole pot of great coffee for your flatmates when you are all getting up after a heavy night, at which point they might crown you or start worshiping you or some shit

DEWALT DWST08130 ToughSystem Suitcase https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M3SP97Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_R3B0DbVARKYQT

I used a scrap of kaizen foam from another project. But any foam will do. Closed cell foam will age better and not absorb water.


Fastcap Kaizen Foam 57mm (2-1/4") Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007J2JJYK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TaC0Db2YE2QW8

My vote: Nib tuning supplies. Some micromesh, and a decent loupe. Then grab one of your Jinhao nibs or a goulet steel nib and learn how to make a nib buttery smooth. Then, whatever pen you end up buying in the future, you can fix and modify to your liking.

Or, a shit ton of ink samples. Get a bunch of colors, and throw in a few "Random" ones, too. Breathe new life into pens you already love.

https://www.amazon.com/Fake-Outlet-Stickers-Prank-Electrical/dp/B06XR4SD1V

Any other cross stitchers excited for this pattern book to come out? /u/sieberella? /u/allergictoapples?

Edit: I sent the link to my mom as I thought it would make her laugh. She preordered the book for me because I've been having such a crappy month!! Awwwww

They have a nice zen version called a Buddha Board. It comes in different sizes.

It’s called a waterbrush pen. It looks like OP used one from this set: Pentel Arts Aquash Water Brush Assorted Tips, Pack of 3

Edit: typo.

DREAME 30X 60X LED Lighted Illuminated Jewelers Eye Loupe Jewelry Magnifier for Gems Jewelry Rocks Stamps Coins Watches Hobbies Antiques Models Photos https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DWG89KQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

That’s the one I use. Works perfectly, is super affordable, and has saved me twice already.

Got the pattern out of this book I bought off of Amazon - Subversive Cross Stitch: 50 F*cking Clever Designs for Your Sassy Side https://www.amazon.com/dp/1576877558/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JLrZAbMAF67R2

It's like one of these.

Here's a collar I made for my dog. Its more legible on lighter colors, my dog'S collar and leash are just plain veg tan.

Sieht nach typischen Pigment Linern aus, kann die von Staedtler empfehlen. Das Skizzenbuch sieht nach nem klassischen Moleskine oder Leuchtturm 1917 aus

> When moving a unit along their movement value'd distance, do you usually measure out the lead model, move it, and then move each other model in the unit in approximately the same (but not measured) distance to maintain coherency, or do you measure out each individual model in a unit to ensure not a single one possibly goes further than its value? Or is this something agreed upon by the players pre-match?

> If each model is measured, I could see some units (ie, conscript squads) being extremely time-consuming or difficult to deal with depending on terrain and model count.

Officially, each model. However almost everyone I've ever played with does it the "time saving way" when dealing with large groups of models. This usually isn't a problem when you are clearly moving them less than max movement range. This is especially the case with horde units that have greater than 10 models to a unit. 20x Poxwalkers for instance. Once you get used to playing, it isn't too time consuming for a single 5 model Marine squad.

> On the second question, is there a generally agreed upon "kit" or set of paint brushes to get before starting to paint models? In addition to the First Strike box I got last night, I also got the small Painting Essentials box which includes a brush (along with cutter, glue, and some small pots), but wasn't sure what other brushes I might need/want before starting to paint.

The "goto" kit for brushes tends to be a Winsor and Newton Series 7 Round Size #2 and #0. Keep them clean with Master's Brush soap and they'll last you a long time. You can find them on Amazon. At $10-$15 a brush they aren't cheap when starting out. And that's arguably more then you need for a first model. You can get by with a cheap bag of small "gold taklon" brushes from walmart or similar at first.

Here's something I wrote recently on brushes for someone else looking for some nicer brushes....

https://www.reddit.com/r/deathguard40k/comments/8ac9ui/what_warhammer_brushes_should_i_get_what_vallejo/

As for Army Painter brushes specifically. It's what I started with before moving to Kolinsky Hair brushes. Still use a number of their small dry brushes for small detail dry brushing. If you are set on Army Painter... The Wargamer series, specifically the Regiment, Character, and Detail brushes are pretty solid. As well as the Wargamer Small Drybrush. Certainly better than Walmart synthetics. Have held up well cleaning with Masters Brush Soap linked below. They just have never had the same type of fine tip you get on a Kolinsky. The super small Army Painter brushes aren't really worth it though in the long run.

-----------------

I have a large collection of brushes with my better half. Bought her a large collection from different brands from around the world so she could try different styles to find the perfect brush for her.

Essentially, you'll want a Natural Kolinsky fiber brush in round shape for miniature base coating, shading, layering, edging and detail work. They will last you quite a while if you take care of them. Most people find they can do everything with a #2 and #0. A workhorse and a detail brush. Good natural Kolinsky hair helps thinned paint flow properly out of the brush, and holds an excellent point. There are a number of options to get a good Kolinsky brush:

As for brands, you have options:

• Winsor and Newton Series 7. Well known for quality and value among miniature painters. This is the gauge by which other high end brushes are judged. - #2, #0
  
• da Vinci. A little more but you can get a nice Travel Series for similar money to their traditional handled brushes. Helps protect the tip while in storage or traveling to the store to paint. They run a little smaller/thinner than W&N Series 7. - #2, #1. This is always the first brush my better half reaches for, if she's not feeling it that day though she'll pull just about any other Kolinsky brush from her collection.
  
• On the cheaper side is ZEM. Had very good luck with them. Good companion for the W&N7 as I use ZEMs when painting metallics as they can be a bit rougher on brushes. They do have some ware to them after dozens of models compared to the more expensive W&N or da Vinci. But don't need to be thrown in the trash like the cheap synthetics. Brush soap does wonders. Set of size #10/0, #0, #2, & #4. Or Individually. These tend to be the first brush I reach for... since I gave the other brushes as a gift. I try to stay to my cheap brushes... If I'm not feeling it that day then I will grab a W&N7.
  
• Other Brands of Kolinsky fiber brushes I own but don't have as much experience with... Raphael, Escoda, Connoisseur.
  
• There's also Citadel's own Artificer line... They are also Kolinsky fiber brushes so need to be cleaned regularly. I have not tried them but many suggest they are similar quality as the W&N Series 7. Just a little more expensive.
  
• When friends come over to learn how to paint up thier board game or DnD minis... I hand them a pouch an assortment of Army Painter Wargamer Brushes or Winsor and Newton synthetic Cotman so they don't need to learn on walmart brushes, but don't risk our Kolinskys.
  
  Then you'll want to keep it all clean with "The Masters" Brush Soap and Conditioner. Cleaning regularly will make a big difference brush life. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009RRT9Y/ ... Keeping brushes freshly rinsed in a basin can help prevent the bad buildup of dried paint to begin with. This kind of thing... https://www.amazon.com/Loew-Cornell-Brush-Tub-II/dp/B0019IKYU8/ or really any sturdy cup you have around that won't tip over easily.
  
  NOTE - You'll want to use cheaper brushes for Drybrushing, it can just murder brushes. Either walmart/craft store brushes you can toss, or just cheaper quality brushes made for it, like Army Painter or Citadels drybrush lines.
  
  As for paint... I use Army Painter and Citadel. Citadel primarily for anything warhammer to get color matches. Army painter for some washes, and anything else I paint (boardgame and DnD minis). Rither now I are only using Vallejo for Airbrush paints and a few premium metallics.
  
  -----------------
  
  There's a great guide that got me and my other half started over on the /r/minipainting subreddit. https://www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/comments/50hd3a/rminipainting_buying_guide_hd_remastered/
  
  
  

Assuming your microns are the fine liner type and not the brush pens, you should get on the brush pen train!

This one is really nice and popular.

This one is nice too and would be more like what you're used to with the microns, but with a softer tip so you can vary the line weight easily.

I could be wrong, but i'm pretty sure both of these are waterproof. Playing with water soluble ink and a water brush is a lot of fun too and doesn't require much to try out. Something like this (but try to find just one for cheap.. you don't need a bunch) plus random non-waterproof pens you probably have around the house and you're good to go.

Recently moved away from all my friends. Decided to have some fun with cross stitch while binging Netflix shows. Headed back to see them this weekend and made this for a friend moving into his new place.


Pattern is from https://www.amazon.com/Subversive-Cross-Stitch-Clever-Designs/dp/1576877558/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539214818&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=cross+stitch+book&dpPl=1&dpID=61yIDonIkgL&ref=plSrch

Hey thanks a lot!

It's holding up using the strongest velcro tape I could find at my local hardware store.
It's strong enough as it doesn't move at all even my I plug or unplug XLR cables from it.

I think that's exactly what I used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010HADEA

Here's the Amazon link courtesy of u/Head_Honchoo from an earlier thread where this was discussed

Here you go.

Edit to add non-mobile link.

A strop is only for honing (the final step to achieving a razor-sharp edge), while a whetstone could be used for anything from shaping the initial bevel to honing, depending on the grit.

If you do buy some Flexcut knives, which I highly recommend, you will probably only need a strop if you properly maintain them. In fact, they recommend you never use a whetstone and only opt for a Powerstrop if you neglect them for too long.

Many sites will recommend you buy tools one by one so you can get what you need, but as another beginner, I was extremely happy I purchased the Flexcut Deluxe Set. It was probably one more knife and one more palm tool than I needed, but it helped me understand what was out there and how to use them. A good, cheaper alternative might be this set.

No matter what you buy, one of the most important things to do from both a safety and usability (and enjoyment!) factor is to keep your tools as sharp as possible. That way it requires less force to move the tool through the wood, which is a common injury mechanism, and it makes it easier to create fun things. For the weird angles with V and gouge tools, I use another Flexcut invention. It works okay, but you can get the same results with folded sandpaper or other methods. I also bought a fullsize knife strop because it really does make a difference and you can get some with a lot more surface area. I haven't needed to buy a whetstone yet.

Also, I've since supplemented my starter set with Dockyard tools, which also come very sharp and keep their edge well. So far I've only used their micro tools, but I understand they have decent sets as well.

Speaking from unfortunate experience, you should definitely pick up a pair of kevlar gloves. I had a pretty serious hand injury (partially severed tendon) because I was just doing some touchups and wasn't using my gloves and got a bit sloppy. It only takes one single wrong stroke, and I had gotten complacent since I'd been so careful in the past. The gloves let me be more reckless and have definitely saved me from cuts, although they wouldn't protect against a stabbing cut. Thumb guards are also popular, but I don't actually like them very much. The gloves are nice because you can get a great grip on the tools.

When you have a knife or a set, you'll need some wood to practice on. I found ebay to be a great resource...just search for "basswood" and pick a few different sizes. 2x2x6 seems to be a good starting point to me. Make sure it is kiln-dried as well. Here is a good assortment that is pretty cheap. Butternut is another good choice, but for a beginner, I'd stick with basswood from personal experience.

Finally, if you are wanting a good book to introduce you to the subject, I'd recommend the Complete Book of Woodcarving. I've bought a number of books on the subject, but it is definitely the best if you are only buying one and need an overview to the entire craft. Old Time Whittling is only 30 pages, but gave some great examples and was very useful to me as well.

Kaizen foam.

kaizen Foam

Not sure how the OP cut it, but I just used a very long exacto blade.

Looks like this. It's a brush with a tube of water for a handle.

Get a Belomo 10x from Amazon for $32. I’ve got a 10x and a 20x, the 10x is more than perfect.

https://www.amazon.com/Fake-Outlet-Stickers-Prank-Electrical/dp/B06XR4SD1V

Here's what's in my toolkit...

Polishing cloth

Fine Mesh Pads

20x Loupe

10x Loupe

! Canned Air

Cotton Tipped Applicators

Goulet Mylar Paper

Goulet Brass Sheets

Goulet Grip

Goulet Silicone Grease

! Careful with the canned air. It can be the cause of some funny and not so funny accidents.

A bright desk light with a magnifier comes in handy.

Books: This is what I said when replying to another thread for book recommendations. I love the CherryPicker's Guide - these will pay for themselves over and over. I don't personally recommend Striking it Rich, but to each their own. I'd rather see you "creep" a coin forum where die varieties and mint errors are discussed and new finds shared than spend a ton on books right out of the gate. I might also recommend learning about the entire minting process (I think a book called From Mine to Mint?) - this will help you understand how die varieties and mint errors are created in the first place and eliminate the confusion between a true doubled die and something like strike doubling.

​

Bookmarks: John Wexler has a very useful site called doubleddie.com with lots of images and descriptions of die varieties. CONECA has a Master Listing of all known die varieties for US Coins and a forum (that, honestly, I rarely visit because no one ever replies to my posts there.) These are just a couple examples; there are tons of great websites out there for you to reference (even PCGS and NGC have some nice high-quality images of varieties they attribute, which also can be very helpful when determining value.) Start building your set of web bookmarks and it will make things easier for you in the long run. PCGS Photograde is a free online reference to help you learn how to grade US Coins, for example.

​

Loupe: I'm always happy to recommend the BelOMO 10x Triplet Loupe - it's the loupe I've been using for about a decade now. IMO 10x is large enough to see even tiny varieties, and you'll mostly be concerned with the quality of the glass and metal. Lots of those cheap plastic loupes say they are higher magnifications, but aren't, or the "glass" isn't even glass (let alone high-quality glass.) I like the shape of the loupe and the texture of it - if your hands get sweaty, it won't slip out (like the cheaper chrome-plated examples you find at every coin shop.) You really, really want good quality glass here - save your eyes - and the better quality glass and larger field of vision (wider glass) the easier it will be on you. Cheap loupes make it hard to focus properly.

​

Magnet: Get yourself a decently strong magnet - this will help diagnose some bad counterfeits out there. I think I got mine at a local hardware store. I'm always amazed when a coin shop doesn't USE the magnet and buys a bunch of fakes...like, did we forget how to deal coins today or something?

​

Scale: I have been using an AWS SC-2kg scale for a few years now with decent results. My older version doesn't have an AC Adapter (just battery operated.) This will also help you diagnose counterfeits and other various mint errors.

​

Lamps: IKEA sells their Jansjo gooseneck LED lamps for less than ten bucks. They have a few different styles of these including some with clamps. They will be bright enough for variety hunting and if you get a few of them can be useful in coin imaging.

​

I tried to use gloves, I really did. But when you drop half the coins because the cotton is too slippery, it's best to learn how to properly hold a coin in your hand. I bought a really nice set of coin tongs in person at a coin shop somewhere - can't remember where - but they are sold on Amazon and eBay now. The problem with them, though, is that the company is in Germany and the shipping is more than the cost of the item.

​

I'd start learning how to image your coins as you look for varieties and errors. If you can take a good image of a die variety, chances are someone will be able to help you attribute it. I've never had good luck with the cheapo LED USB microscopes that are available, they all take crappy images, don't work with my computer, etc. I've returned every one. This could be an entire other discussion, honestly.

​

I love using my tablet (I maxed out with an iPad Pro a couple years ago) for reference books and cherrypicking on eBay. It's wonderful to have a ton of reference books/manuals/coin images handy and portable.

​

Other than that - best of luck to you, and we'll do our best to help. Just remember at the beginning to take a breath before you get all amped up and start thinking you've found a valuable variety on every coin you see. I've seen it so many times - new person shows up, posts thirty threads about thirty different coins, none of which have usable images (all out of focus for example) and then gets butt hurt when people tell them their coins are worth face value.

​

Don't take it personally.

​

It takes time and persistence to learn how to find real varieties. THEY ARE OUT THERE, though...I just found a nice 1934 DDO Quarter in a bag someone told me fifty times had been searched and searched (he's just that kind of a person, though, so I just ignored him.)

​

I have a masters compressor and use it with an iwata eclipse. This is the model I use. https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Model-TC-40T-Single-Piston/dp/B00WBT7PTW/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1LPKLUC1F0ARC&keywords=airbrush+compressor&qid=1557149961&s=gateway&sprefix=airbrush+comp%2Caps%2C134&sr=8-4 having a tank is nice since the compressor will stop running when the tank is full. Also, try to get a dual action airbrush. That lets you trigger the air by pushing the trigger down, and the flow of paint is controlled by pulling the trigger back. Gives you a massive amount of control in how much paint is hitting your model

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DWG89KQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_bkiszbC6XX2WC

https://imgur.com/a/JU7nc

My wife bought me these for Christmas, and they've been great.

The best gift I have ever received has been my pendant cutter. It is by far my favorite accessory for crocheting and knitting. Here's the link.

Clover 3106 Yarn Cutter Pendant, Antique Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WV1YC0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NAPCDb8ACJ5Q0

The patch is iron-on so I attached some of this Velcro with its adhesive and it has worked great.

A Buddha Board, its one of the coolest things I've seen that somewhat relates to meditation. I'm sure your friend would love it! Buddha Board Amazon

You can actually get this white sharpie and draw it on the sole of your shoe to make it white and then use nail polish remover to get it off anywhere you dont want it

Yeah, it is. Flexcut makes great equipment, I've got a fair number of their tools myself. Personally, I'd spend a bit more and get this set, which will really open your options up and make it easier to create:

http://www.amazon.com/Beginner-Palm-and-Knife-Set/dp/B005EG033Y

The flexcut tools are so well made you only need a strop to keep them honed if you take care of them...no need for a sharpening stone(s).

I've got some ideas. What exactly do you need a laminator for? And are you in a decent sized city?

The Pixma Pro-100 handles cardstock perfectly. It's not going to be the most amazing print quality on most cardstocks. You need special inkjet paper which tends to be expensive. But I find it is more than adequate for my purposes using regular cardstock. I got mine on sale + a big mail in rebate that came with a Visa cash card. Overall I paid about $130 for it which is pretty good imo. I print on both sides of some real thick cardstock and then just cut them out with the paper cutter I'm going to link below. The other good thing about the printer is it handles larger paper sizes. I have 13x19 inkjet paper that it takes and the prints come out incredibly good. And that's a pretty decent size for printing the stuff I'm going to attach to chipboard.

(If you go the Pixma route, I suggest looking at some bulk inks. It has reduced my costs significantly)

I use this for a paper cutter. Works fine. You might do well to find a way to shine a light from underneath the swing arm to line up cuts but it's plenty good enough without it.

I use this corner rounder. I've done thousands of cards with it. Still good. I think if I had to buy it again though I'd look for something that was more like a traditional hole punch in using your whole hand. The one I linked gets your fingers sore after a while.

The reason I asked about where you live is because if you live in a good sized city, you may have access to fab labs. My public library has one with a laser cutter. It makes making tokens a breeze. And because it's at the library for me, it's freeeeeeee. Print on some label paper. Slap the fronts and backs onto a sheet of chipboard. Stick it in the laser cutter and voila, perfect tokens. They'll come out slightly singed but overall they're great.

How much are you going to print and play?

If it's not a lot, I would say just skip the printer. It's $130 at its cheapest and that's not even counting the cost of replacing the ink. If you're only going to print a few games and they're not that intense, just go to a local printshop and use their high quality business laser printers. They print super sharp into label paper and card stocks. Print the fronts on one, the backs on the other, stick em together, cut it out with the paper cutter. It's a bit of work but the finished product looks great.

Pattern from the subversive cross stitch book on Amazon: Subversive Cross Stitch : 50 Designs for Your Sassy Side https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/1576877558/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qNLhDb9YYNKJT

There are the three heavy hitters for pattern books for subversive cross stitch:

Feminist Cross Stitch

Subversive Cross Stitch

Improper Cross Stitch

You can also find a TON of projects on Etsy to gift your match.

If you want to do something cheaper or less, stitchers can always use more floss (310, White, Ecru, 666 are some key numbers/colors to look for) and aida (cross stitching fabric). Feel free to check out our gift giving guide for other ideas!

I posted this in another sub about a month ago for someone wanting to learn:







It's a very inexpensive hobby. Here are the things I put on my Amazon list, just for reference if you or anyone else needed it:

Set of 4 different sized wooden hoops- $11.99 Plastic ones may be easier for some people, I prefer wooden because they're more my style for framing.

Aida 14ct Cloth 12x18- $3.55 14ct Aida is easiest to work with for beginners. The size of this is good for practicing on, get a couple so you can use the other for your first project. You can also purchase large rolls of it when you start becoming obsessed with it. They also come in lots of different colors and easy to dye yourself.

Set of 150 different colored skeins of DMC floss- $15.98 This is a great amount to start off with. It'll last you a long time, and if you ever need more or want new colors, they are very inexpensive from any craft store and Walmart. Usually around $0.25-$0.50. FYI floss splits apart into 6 tiny strings. Start off using only 2-3 strands
Do all 6 and you're gonna have a bad time.

Needles!- $3.49 Can't stitch without needles!

Bobbins and a thread organizer- $6.49 You will need this. I waited too long to get one and ended up have to wind up hundreds of tangled skeins and it took HOURS. Do it before you start practicing. Also write the thread color number on the top of each bobbin with permanent marker. When you use patterns they will be based off the color numbers.

Julie Jackson's subversive cross stitch book- $12.99 If you like those snarky offensive cross stitchings, this is the best book for it. It's also an amazing beginners guide into cross stitching. It has brief instructions on how to start and very simple but adorably offensive patterns. You can also get other books or use YouTube to find instructions on how to get started. I'd also like to suggest going to etsy for patterns. They're pretty cheap and there's endless options.

So about $55 to get started plus shipping, but it'll last you a long time and could be used on many different projects and you won't spend nearly as much when you do need something else.

Should be less than $15 at places like Michaels. Especially with coupons.

Also this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VRTG8Y/

You can take a yarn cutter pendant with you on the flight in place of scissors.

If you have any plants, moonwater is great for tending them. You can also use it in teas, baths, cleansing sprays, and as a base for any kind of magical liquid mixture.

I also like to use it for making temporary drawings/inscriptions - marking out a circle on the floor, or writing on a buddha board.

I always suggest flexcut for beginners for two reasons, they are fairly inexpensive, and they are sharp and hold an edge well. (I would not suggest using them on anything harder than mahogany or perhaps oak)

If you find you like woodcarving, then I suggest move on to more traditional (And fairly expensive tools like Pfeil, Ashely iles, Two cherries, Auriou, Henry Taylor, Robert Sorby etc)

They do have a small set similar to what you're looking for,

https://www.amazon.com/Beginner-Palm-and-Knife-Set/dp/B005EG033Y/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1483717685&sr=8-4&keywords=flexcut+set

As for wood, basswood is good for beginners, also butternut. I personally hate basswood and prefer to carve woods with a janka hardness of 1000 and up. That's just me though and many folks love basswood, I just find it too soft for my style of carving.

Cleaning, I just pick up the larger shavings and vacuum the rest.

Some resources,

http://www.wood-database.com/

Database on wood with detailed info on each species.

https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/index.php

Very good supplier of woodworking/carving tools, I use them often and they are usually very prompt in shipping.

http://www.constantines.com/

I order from these guys every so often, usually 12x12x2 mahogany blocks.

http://www.japanwoodworker.com/

Another supplier of tools, they also have wood.

http://www.bellforestproducts.com/

Wood supplier, excellent stock of more exotic lumber, I tend to browse the "Hand pick your board" section often.

Also, ebay is a nice place to find carving wood.

Unfortunately, most cheap sets aren't worth buying. A nice combo set, which has the two most common types of blades and the two most common types of "gouges" can be had for around $55. This, IMHO, is a great starter kit.

Do you think he'd be more interested in carving figures, like whittling, or relief carving, which is like creating scenes on flat panels?

I really like Flex cut knives and gouges. They are a little bit of money but they will last you a life time.

Depending on what you want to do I have found 2 sets This one that is only knives and then This which has a combination of knives and gouges.

Personally if I were you I would go for the second one because it will give you a wider range of things that you can carve.

How did you make the corners super round?

I'd really like that. My current cards are sharp and pointy.

Aha! Found out.

https://www.amazon.com/Sunstar-Kadomaru-Corner-Cutter-S4765036/dp/B0076FJ7SS

Which opening did you cut with?

For the 2.5mm one:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G08PEXO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For the 3mm one:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0076FJ7SS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2.5mm is closer to American corners. 3mm is closer to Japanese corners.

Printing: 9€
Punching tool: 8€
576 cuts, 576x pressing the puncher amazon link

300g/sqm paper.

You might want to replace that pluck foam with some - https://www.amazon.com/Fastcap-Kaizen-Foam-57mm-Black/dp/B007J2JJYK

Got rid of mine as fast as i could, since it's open cell and will attract moisture and also tends to react with oils

>I'm considering spraying outdoors in a large plastic rubbermade, and then whisking the whole thing indoors and setting it front of my downstairs bathroom heater between coats.

That's pretty much what I did at first, until I ponied up $80 and bought this. You can probably build one from hardware store parts for around the same money. It's set up in a spare bedroom and ducted out the window. Works great.

If you're going to spray outside, be really careful when you heat up your spray cans. I actually stopped heating mine due to overpressure. Typically, I'd set the can in warm water (from the tap), no more than 110 degrees, hand-washing temperature. I was shaking and spraying a model when POP! the bottom of the can went from concave to convex (this is a design feature of all aerosol pressure cans). Thought it was just the can, but a few days ago, similar situation. Heated the can not even to 100, just lukewarm water, and heard a couple of small pops when I was spraying - sure enough, two places on the bottom are dented outwards.

Just minimize the time outside - keep the model and can inside, shake the can, get the dust off the model, run outside, spray and run back inside, then cover the part to keep the dust off while it dries.

I recently bought a setup about a month ago so if you are in the US, I'd recommend the following:

• 1/5 hp Portable Airbrush Compressor with Tank $89.99
  
• 10'ft braided airbrush hose, 1/8" bsp aka Iwata $5.99
  
• Point Zero Dual Action Gravity Feed Airbrush with 0.2, 0.3, 0.5mm nozzle-needle sets and 1/8" bsp quick disconnect $23.99
  
• 20% discount for buying over $100 from this Amazon vendor
  
• Safety is very important! Portable Spray Booth $79.99 w/ Prime, not eligible for above discounts
  
• Comes out to about $175.96 before tax.
  
  I have the compressor, the hose, and the booth and they've worked great for me so far. Honestly, you save on shipping vs. the Master Brand and mine came preassembled with the regulator installed. The Master Brand ones are notorious for having regulators that you screw in and they end up tilted to the side. In fact I think people in this sub have pointed this flaw out (there's a better link with pictures, I just can't find it). Items were shipped promptly and got here in one piece. You also get the discounts if you buy a certain amount from them.
  
  I actually have an Iwata NEO that I got from Amazon for about $40ish. I'm still on the fence as to whether or not I like airbrushing or not. Honestly, I wish I had gotten the PointZero brush just as a cheap intro dual-action brush.
  
  I think someone on this subreddit once pointed out that an airbrush is like a regular brush, just powered by air. They weren't kidding. It takes time to master. If you have the money to spend on a fancy >$100 airbrush like the Krome, then less of your time will be spent trying to master the idiosyncrasies of your brush. But it doesn't change the fact that it takes practice to be able to lay down really smooth, thin coats consistently.
  
  I don't know how busy you are as a student, but it can be time consuming to set everything up, test your spray conditions, mix your paints, actually paint, and then clean everything up. If you find you like the process, then you can invest in a better brush in the future and keep your old one for laying down primer or base coating.
  
  But there's nothing wrong with OOB snap builds if you find that's your thing.
  
  edit: for link formatting mistakes, and also to say that I'm not very experienced yet, so take my advice with a grain of salt.
  
  edit 2: My other regret is not considering compressed CO2. I live near a welding supply shop and a restaurant supply shop that both sell compressed CO2 cylinders. A 10 lb tank with high pressure regulator would have been around $120 and then some for converters or extra regulators. People on the fine scale forums claim that a 10 lb tank could last months for airbrushing and it's only $17 to refill at either shop. Would have been perfect too for carbonating beverages for homebrew purposes. Just another option to consider. Definitely do not buy the Badger compressed air cans. They don't last long enough.

The box behind it is a Master spray booth (folded up into briefcase form). There’s also a patio door and a HEPA filter out of frame.

Since returning to the hobby, I haven't had many weeks when I didn't pick something up.

holy tools Batman!

Starting from the top right we have:

RB Productions handle bender (I don't build armor!)
RB Productions parallel bending jig
RB Productions angled bending jig
Iwata Eclipse HP-CS dual action airbrush
RB Productions R10 photoetch bending tool
Iwata airbrush cleaning station
RB Productions Scribe-R file (3 scribers)
RB Productions Nano saws set
Sticky pencil (not pictured)
Spray booth (not pictured) http://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush%C2%AE-Portable-Airbrush-Painting/dp/B00BMUH8L6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1422474906&sr=8-2&keywords=spray+booth

it's been a fun few months.

The cheaper ones I've used seem to distort more near the edges of the lens and just feel cheap. I've done my fair share of core logging and the Belomo is my go to and is popular with loggers I've worked with (who use their lenses ALOT). It has a bigger lens than the Bausch and Lomb and is reasonably cheap. I also have a Bausch and Lomb and it's a fine handlens

I like this one. Compact and easy to use. No problem looking at watches, dials, movements, jewelry, or anything else up close.

Basically, when a compressor has an air tank it gives you a steadier supply of air, less pulsations, while also extending the life of the compressor itself.

The AS186 that /u/whatsmyloginagain brought up is similar to this:
https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Model-TC-40T-Single-Piston/dp/B00WBT7PTW/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=master+airbrush+compressor&qid=1563943691&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Compressors that have more than one piston also provide more airflow and less pulsations. You're basically buying a very basic compressor for a premium price if you choose the grex bundle. I'm sure the grex has better quality control, but the majority of people who have purchased tankless compressors (including myself) have come to regret it.

On the airbrush front, I second what whatsmyloginagain brought up. Buying an Infinity is basically buying a top tier brush for this hobby and gunpla. I'd recommend looking at Mr Hobby/GSI Creos airbrushes before you decide to purchase an Iwata, as theres a 99% chance they're made by the same company. Check out spraygunner.com if you want to browse through the Mr Hobby line. Alternatively, you could order straight from a Japanese hobby shop and save a couple of dollars, but lose out on any sort of customer support.

I picked up one off ebay for $45 with the brand FUWA on it. Only issue was it didn't have 1/8th fittings that an airbrush needs so i went and got fittings to make it work.

Ive Heard good things about Master Airbrush Compressors(airbrushes not so much)

I believe the one I would get would be the TC-40-T

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Model-TC-40T-Single-Piston/dp/B00WBT7PTW

I was looking at the one linked from home depot, but I was also looking at this other one from Amazon, the Master airbrush model TC-40T but a lot of the reviews say it doesn't last very long before breaking.

I really need something portable and small for storage (apartment living), that ideally has a tank to cool down.

DREAME 30X 60X LED Lighted Illuminated Jewelers Eye Loupe Jewelry Magnifier for Gems Jewelry Rocks Stamps Coins Watches Hobbies Antiques Models Photos https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DWG89KQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_n4KFyb8GRG988

I use a similar one. It's good enough to verify rosette pattern, clean black ink lines, blue paper layer, and the LEDs are strong enough for light tests.

Got the same one. Then got this DREAME 30X 60X LED Lighted Illuminated Jewelers Eye Loupe https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DWG89KQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jo8uzb28VTH2J makes looking at trichomes very easy.
You can also just take a pinch from your bud and put it on a dish or table then use the one you have.

I got this one

Would have been more helpful providing a pic of in use...oh wait, try these.

Save your money. You need $20 more for a decent starter brush here, I wouldn’t buy one of these, I had one, made one model and sold it. In honesty I’d save up, double your money and buy either a kit like this compressor with tank with brush, or preferably just the compressor for $70 and a decent airbrush like the Iwata neo for $60.

A compressor with a tank means the compressor doesn’t run all the time so prolongs the compressor life itself. It has a decent water trap and regulator to adjust pressure.

A Neo is a superb brush for the money, cheap Chinese airbrushes have less accuracy, require deeper cleaner and can give a frustrating experience.

It’s often worth spending once and spending right in this field. Hence I suggest saving your money.

IWATA NEO CN airbrush and AS-186 compressor.

For a total of 140$ as the time of writing this (on 5.8.2019.) it is the best cheap airbrush and compressor combo.

Why? You get the whole package - Airbrush, a compressor with a tank, air filter and a hose which is all you need to start airbrushing


Iwata Neo is considered the best cheap(est) branded airbrush on the market by many so I used it here, also the AS-186 compressor (Check later in the page about it more) is p good. You also get a hose which far too many people forget to buy when choosing a compressor.


mostly everything


-----


Note for other users - I am currently rewriting the airbrush page a bit (this will be on the top of the page), so if you have any wishes to add to it please comment.

watercolors LINK

we starting to use it in art schools and continue to use them in art academy. they really are good. no need to dig deeper in more expensive, pro watercolors.

fancy watercolors (i personally love them, but really, basically fo fun, mixed media) LINK

watercolor pad LINK

that's my choice. would highly recommend this producer, really great absorption, thick paper, different formats available. anyway, it's really good.

brushes is really very personal choice, depends on technic and such. I like this one LINK great for miniature work. You can look for some squirrel hair brushes in local store orLINK , they are good for starters and for wet painting.

EDIT. fanart sample where all those stuff used at once :P

It's a sticker.

There's also a book with collected patterns!

I did this in 14 count black cloth, and used pink floss for the flowers instead of red like it asked for. I got the pattern from a book on Amazon called "50 Fucking clever designs for your sassy side"

Subversive Cross Stitch: 50 Fcking Clever Designs for Your Sassy Side https://www.amazon.ca/dp/1576877558/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_L3KZCbXWZXPQM

Una roba tipo: subversive cross stitching oppure not your mama's stitching
o ancora anticraft

it's this

i bought it at michaels but much cheaper on amazon

I use this and another one. Sadly I lost all the tips recently and I'm working with just one. Don't loose them, they come in handy when you get better.

It's kind of like a pen with a steel (?) tip that's interchangeable depending on what you're doing. I would suggest getting wood from a craft store (Michael's), heating up the woodburner and trying things out. It can take a lot of patience at first to even do lines. Experiment with how long to hold it on the wood to make a line.

Oh, also if the wood isn't pre-sanded, make sure to get some sand paper and sand it down. At least that's what my grandma always told me to do, so it's now habit. :o

I also trace lightly in pencil what I'm going to do before I actually go and burn something. If you're not a very good artist you can always tape something to the wood and press on the paper and trace. It won't leave a pencil/pen mark, but it will leave an indent you can see and go over with the wood burner.

Afterwards stain it and leave it out to dry for a few hours.

Have a lot of fun and experiment. It's such a fun hobby!

Like the idea. If you have $10, get one of these: Woodburner Really easy to do detailed burns. Just make sure to burn before staining!

A woodburning iron? Any craft store should have them (Michael's, AC Moore), or just buy one on Amazon. Often them come in boxed sets (with some kind of booklet and a bunch of scrap wood) designed for kids.

I have a few of these, because, toddler.

https://www.amazon.com/Clover-Cutter-Pendant-Antique-Silver/dp/B000WV1YC0/ref=sr_1_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1472745578&sr=1-1&keywords=yarn+cutter+pendant

So true! I know I always have a pair of nail clippers on the night stand. Not always the case with scissors. :) I'm also a fan of the yarn-cutting ninja-star-looking thing. Great for planes and jury duty.

Retractable measuring tape, a yarn needle, a pen, and ALWAYS my Clover yarn cutter pendant (which I bought at Michaels rather than amazon, but that was the first link that came up). When I don't have this in my project bag, I always regret it.

I bought a pendant thread cutter for £5 on amazon and it's been brilliant for flying! I hooked yarn through the eye and wear it as a bracelet so I don't lose it and don't have to take it off when I need to cut thread. I also second the suggestion of ziplocs, especially if you're taking a few projects. I've just got back from holiday and I just sorted floss, linen and a printed copy of any patterns into a ziploc for each project and I managed to take three with very little space taken up! Nothing better than stitching on a plane to make the time disappear :D
Also, not packing, but I downloaded episodes of stitch & bitch podcast which was so fun :)

​

Link to something similar to the pendant on Amazon - i took a punt on US amazon :p

Yup. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000WV1YC0/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1498303336&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=yarn+cutter&dpPl=1&dpID=51eiiE60XyL&ref=plSrch

I have a 4 year old and I also usually bring my crocheting with me everywhere. It's just safer and easier to have around little kids. Also, if you travel, I've read that it's tsa compliant.

I’m using Velcro, that way, I can adjust or remove the camera whenever I need to.

I would say it's as close to the vive w/ DAS as the quest could be comfort-wise, an immense improvement overall. The face cushion of the vive is more plush but that's the only difference IMO.

Links are in the description, but here they are as well:

• HTC Vive Deluxe Audio Strap - http://amzn.com/B06Y2GDXMC
  
• VELCRO Industrial Strength Strips: http://amzn.com/B0010HADEA
  
• 1 Inch Velcro Straps (The ones I used, but you can find better): http://amzn.com/B074V2MFMC
  
• 1 Inch Velcro Straps (Better ones): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I0TTPL8
  
• 1.5 Inch D Ring: http://amzn.com/B076J5RVNW
  
  edit: added new velcro

Its a white board that turns black when you paint water onto its surface. As the water evaporates, the painting fades. Very calm, much zen. http://www.amazon.com/Original-Buddha-Board-Master-letting/dp/B0010TEFFQ

A Buddha Board for sure. Artsy and spiritual - you paint on it with water and it fades away in time.

I think a "buddha board" might be what you're looking for. There's also a cheaper mini one

SHARPIE MED WHT OB PAINT MARKER https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PLKRZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JiKoDbAPSABYK

I'm going to get alot of shit for this! When I got the shoes the midsoles were BURNT yellow, hadn't been cleaned in years. After I hit them with the Jason Markk, I purchased this sharpie and colored over the midsole, made it crispy white. It's an oil based white and made them look BRAND NEW! Hope that helps.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001PLKRZQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_sc_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1496274318&sr=8-4-spell&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=sharpie+oul+based+paint+markers Is it this?

Buy the cheapest, thickest sketchbook you can, (in the UK, I'd hit up The Works)and some pens, ballpoint maybe, preferably fineliners, like these bad boys, then fill it up.


There are tons of resources available.

Some tips I have picked up:

Start with perspective, simple one-point perspective and a bunch of boxes ( try this place ), and just fill sketchbooks up.

Split your drawing time into practice and personal, still draw stuff you love, but make time to just practice. Noone else will see the results, it's just for you to learn how things look.

Use reference, not tracing if you can avoid it, as much as you can. Learn what things actually look like, how bits of the body fit together and work. Draw what you see, not how you think things look.

Try and find others who are learning too and learn together, even just posting stuff online for advice.

*From the last one, try and see advice as positive, noone is perfect and (other then the occasional twat), use what they have said to get better :)


Sorry for the wall of random stuff, I'm still early in my journey too and these are the tips I keep hearing again and again. Good luck!! Can't wait to see what you come up with in the future.

Staedtler Pigment Liner I believe is what is being used.

Edit: Kiket to liner.

Thank you!

I used this set:

amazon.com/Flexcut-Beginner-All-Purpose-Included-KN600/dp/B005EG033Y/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=flexcut&qid=1568304084&sr=8-1

I also have a micro V tool that I used.

Here is an entry-level knife set with two useful palm gouges

He would also need honing compound to keep them sharp. He'd need to find a strip of leather to glue onto a nice flat board to apply the compound to. You can buy just plain leather all over the place, like here.

I don't know too many people that carve with balsa, never tried it myself either. Most carvers in North America though use basswood or tupelo.

I'm not a veteran by any means in terms of Airbrushing (I've airbrushed 2 kits... a MG Strike Freedom & a MG Nu)

For both of them I went with a very cheap set-up...

For the Airbrush I used a Iwata Neo Gravity which I bought at Hobby Lobby for about $45 w/ their 40% off Coupon :P and it was a great starter airbrush, to me it was straight to the point and definitely something I'd recommend.

As far as my compressor goes, I went with Master Compressor. Reason being is it had a Hose, Water Trap & the Compressor. It works great and I still use it and I like it.

I didn't have a Spray Booth and went with spraying in a damn tub I bought at Walmart for $3 lol and didn't even have a mask...

I highly recommend getting one as it definitely helps out.

I recently bought one and I now use the MSA Safety Works Mask. I started painting my 3rd Airbrushed Kit (about 3 pieces primered lol) and this mask is a god send. I was killing myself before and don't suggest you do the same.

With a Airbrush & the Compressor Set that I linked you should be good to go all you really need is paint which I bought all of mine at the time from Hobby Town USA since they carry Tamiya Paints which are very user friendly and I thinned it 1:1 with 91% Isoprophyl Alcohol from Walmart.

I was in the very same position as you lol, I built about 9 kits before starting a Airbrushed model.

I recently purchased another Airbrush, I got the Master G23 and I've only used Primer on it but it's pretty good, the action isn't as great as my Neo but it's nice enough since I'm no pro and I feel it matches my skill level.

If you have any other questions I can help you as much as I can.

COPYING MY RESPONSE FROM A DIFFERENT POST!

That airbrush compressor is just this $66 one. most of that stuff can be found cheaper if you look closely. Even the badger and paache ones are the same compressor, just reskinned or with a fancy enclosure.

If you want something that is quiet, look for a diaphram style compressor instead of a piston. The air compressors at your hardware store will all be piston style ones that can be around 80-100db. A mid-level diaphram compressor can be found for less than most compressors at your hardware store. Most airbrush compressors are very similar, with the internals likely coming from the same factory in china. Some have an attached tank which helps keep a steady air pressure, though ones without will still work fine.

For example: http://amzn.com/B005H3CBXO

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0076FJ7SS/

You can buy them here. You have to buy them in packs of 50 for like $70. I believe they're priced that way because they own a patent for the matte finish laminate and they are "industrial" grade. It works amazingly well with thicker mecahnical pencil lead (0.9mm or thicker). It almost looks like you're writing with a marker, and then completely erases with no trace.

They sent me a free sample of them, so I did a couple for AQ, too:

• Arcadia Quest campaign trackers from official PDFs
  
• Arcadia Quest campaign tracker on matte side, rules on glossy side
  
  I bought a corner cutter to clean the corners up. Works very well, too. I got that from Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0076FJ7SS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  

This Army Painter starter set is your best bet. It has Black, White, 3 primary colors, green, a flesh tone, a good brown, steel metallic(you can add colors to it of you want the metal to look a different color), and Strong tone wash(actually my favorite wash, period). Even comes with an okay detail brush.

If you want purple and orange. You can pick up any brand you want and it'll work just fine with these paints. Citadel is usually the easiest to find if you have gaming shop nearby. Or if you have a hobby lobby, they sell Vallejo model paints. They're good. Other brands that come to mind. Reaper, P3, Secret Weapon, and Scale 75. All good.

So all you'd need to get is a primer of your choice. And a decent brush, here's a decent brush set. And probably want to get a good matte varnish. Most people recommend Testors dull coat. But if you want brush on. Vallejo matte varnish is a good alternative. All in all you could easily be under $50.

Miniac's video on how to take care of your brushes

Use acrylic paint and make sure you thin it, adding regular water will work. This is probably the most important step in producing a decent looking paint job.

Better painters than I say shoot for the consistency of milk, I usually don't go that thin, but close. You might have to do a few more coats to get proper paint coverage with thinned paint, but the figure will come out looking much better and smoother than painting straight out of the bottle.

Learn to dry-brush and apply washes. These are two of the easiest painting techniques to learn and apply, and they can take a custom paint job to another level.

Here's an old comment of mine That goes into more detail about dry-brushing a applying washes.

If you need brushes I'll recommend this set. I used them for 90% of all my customs and I'm a big fan. I've also bought a few of these sets cause they're dirt cheap and use some of them for dry-brushing and applying washes. Since dry-brushing kinda tears up brushes you don't want to use a nicer brush.

/r/minipainting has a lot of great tutorials on their sidebar. I pretty much learned everything I know from watching minifigure painting tutorials on Youtube, so maybe check some of them out. I started painting/customizing with Warhammer 40k and D&D minis and most of the techniques apply to action figures.


As JSK said Figurerealm is great, I used that a lot when I first started customizing, and it's great for looking at other people's customs to get inspiration.


I can't really think of anything else, but just ask if you have any more questions.

an option if you can't find anything and are a little handy is buying something similar to this packing foam and cutting a rough seat shape and attaching it to both sides and putting in a box and it will keep anything fairly safe

super 77 for foam to foam and double sided tape to hold foam to the box. That way the foam can be replaced when you fuck it up.


whats it for, both of the foams you linked are open cell. Im a big fan of kaizen foam if the foam is going to contact anything metal or electronic.

https://www.amazon.com/Fastcap-Kaizen-Foam-57mm-Black/dp/B007J2JJYK/

This is what you're looking for.
http://www.amazon.com/Fastcap-Kaizen-Foam-57mm-Black/dp/B007J2JJYK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414720138&sr=8-1

I'd recommend you buy the case you like and buy some Kaizen foam. Don't look for a case that comes with foam as it'll severely limit your options.

Been wanting to do this....planning on using this:
https://www.amazon.com/Fastcap-Kaizen-Foam-57mm-Black/product-reviews/B007J2JJYK


Great Job!

Staedtler watercolor brush marker for the green color - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077125LSV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6FvQBb5CK3G7N

Pentel Waterbrush - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AX31TZO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HHvQBbGG92C3B

I used the staedtler brush marker to color on a block. I then used the water brush to pick-up the green color and paint on the paper. That's for the watercolor items. Let me know what other materials you're interested in if I missed something you needed. The leaves, days and hydrate stuff are stamps and I used the staedtler brush marker to color on the stamp for the green items. Not sure if I have links for those, but I could find some if needed.

Daniel Smith Essentials set $23 , Arches Hot Press Watercolor Pad $11, Pentel Waterbruahes 3 pack - $13 , and a bottle of [India Ink $3] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001E6CUPC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1478233526&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX280_SY350_QL65&keywords=india+ink&dpPl=1&dpID=51a6zmSbLPL&ref=plSrch). If I had a little extra, I'd spring for the da Vinci round 6 sable travel brush - favorite all around brush for smaller paintings :)

What about you? What would you have purchased? Or are you looking to buy?

Master Airbrush Brand Portable Hobby Airbrush Spray Booth for Painting All Art, Cake, Craft, Hobby, Nails, T-Shirts & More. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BMUH8L6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FFfmDb096SQ20

This is a similar one my wife got me for Christmas last year.

No smells that are noticable so far.

I'm not OP, but it looks like an airbrush station which is purchasable on Amazon. Something like https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Portable-Painting-T-shirts/dp/B00BMUH8L6/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=airbrush+station&qid=1566241870&s=gateway&sr=8-4 . Hope this helps!

I'm pretty sure it's from Subversive Cross Stitch.

From Julie Jackson:

https://www.amazon.com/Subversive-Cross-Stitch-Clever-Designs/dp/1576877558/ref=asc_df_1576877558/?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid={creative}&hvpos={adposition}&hvnetw=o&hvrand={random}&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl={devicemodel}&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584207577365855&psc=1

Good work! :)

You should check out this if you like subversive patterns. It's amazing.

Oh, wow, that's beautiful. I've been looking at that one in my local store for a while.

Still on the little pen-type burner.

I really want to try my hands at woodburning! I have this tool on my crafts and hobbies wishlist. It can make some pretty cool stuff! LOOK AT THIS! I want! :D

/u/fatalis_vox duuuuuuuuuuuuude let's get creative in herre

https://www.amazon.com/Walnut-Hollow-Introduction-Intermediate-Woodburners/dp/B000VRTG8Y

This is the exact model, though we did get a small pack of various tips as well.

Wood is from Michael's. It's very cheap so get some and try it out!

I used a super basic tool by Walnut Hollow with the universal tip.

https://www.amazon.com/Walnut-Hollow-Introduction-Intermediate-Woodburners/dp/B000VRTG8Y/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1487731682&sr=8-7&keywords=wood+burning

I found this one on amazon for $12

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VRTG8Y/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_bggSDbNSYJDR7

One of those, beginner tool (sorry, dunno how to hyperlink).

I agree - I would worry about packing scissors more than the knitting needles. That's why I don't bother packing my small scissors when I travel; would rather not deal with it! Instead I bring a lil yarn cutter, like this one, as they don't typically find those dangerous.

http://www.amazon.com/Clover-Cutter-Pendant-Antique-Silver/dp/B000WV1YC0 boom!

One answer to travellers maybe http://www.amazon.co.uk/Clover-Cutter-Pendant-Antique-Silver/dp/B000WV1YC0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416441893&sr=8-1&keywords=yarn+cutter+pendant its a pendant its less obvious it would cut

The felt does both. The glass spacer doesn’t have the curve that follows the edge of the headset so the felt blocks light and gets the proper angle so the pad is actually resting on something. Everything is fastened by the adhesive of the felt or Velcro but I did use string to tighten a few places.

I use VELCRO Brand Industrial Strength Fasteners | Stick-On Adhesive | Professional Grade Heavy Duty Strength Holds up to 10 lbs on Smooth Surfaces | Indoor Outdoor Use | 4 x 2 inch Strips, 4 Sets, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010HADEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_k7EsDbRW79609

This is the same Velcro I used to attach DAS it’s easy to cut to shape and applies very firmly.

This is my list.
4x2" Industrial Velcro
Tri-Glide Slide
1.5" Wide One Wrap Velcro

Other people use a D-Ring instead but I prefer the look of the tri-glide slide instead. You need to make sure to use Industrial Velcro for the attachment of the DAS.

Here is what mine looks like

https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-90209-Industrial-Strength/dp/B0010HADEA/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1524920570&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=velcro+tape&dpPl=1&dpID=41moZkWVLnL&ref=plSrch

Buy this, only use the hook side, and cut to fit.

https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Industrial-Strength-Superior/dp/B0010HADEA/

I would use double sided tape of some sort to make-shift put it back on, or a better option would be to purchase adhesive Velcro straps like these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010HADEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GFr7CbN78G7WD

I have those.

[I got these to keep them together] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0010HADEA/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

The long wait for the VRCover drove me to find an alternative so I took a gamble on some Vive face cushions. There are probably better alternatives but here is what I did:

​

Bought this

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FCHYD6T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and this

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0010HADEA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I cut the velcro strips into little rectangles and put them on the glasses spacer, then I simply attached the face cushion to spacer. It doesn't fit perfectly, you gotta work it into the correct shape. However I actually dig the foam padding, it's more comfortable than the stock foam and doesn't absorb sweat which I really like. It's not a high quality product though, there is some tearing at the seams but it doesn't seem to be getting any larger. Also depending on how you get the cushion to fit there could be a little leakage on the sides, not much though. I don't know notice it at all while playing. No idea if that makes the Quest vulnerable to sun damage so be careful and don't blame me if you damage your Quest. Lastly, the foam makes wearing certain glasses uncomfortable, I use some thin harry potter style glasses for VR though and they work just fine. Obviously not a perfect solution but it works well for me.

​

Edit: Just noticing there are Vive Pro cushions (I hadn't noticed before). Those might work out better for glasses. Can't say for sure.

You can remove them but I personally just leave them attached all the time, I don't find that they get in the way of anything. I use this chair for my normal computer stuff too, the brackets haven't changed anything. Here's a picture of how my chair looks with the brackets to give you a better idea (don't mind the messy cables on the floor). My previous chair wasn't as wide as this one, so the brackets kind of squished my legs a little when I was sitting in it, but it's not a problem with my current chair.

The brackets are very sturdy, you can swivel and rotate them but it takes a lot of force to do so. There's no movement at all when I use my joystick. The only thing is with the velcro - over time, after you've attached and un-attached your joystick so many times, it loses its strength, in which case the joystick does wiggle around a little bit. I personally just replace the velcro every once in a while, and that works fine for me. You could try a heavier duty velcro if it's a concern. I've been using this kind and it's been good enough for me. Hope this helps!

I'm so sorry for your loss. <3 I'd love to use this to build my drawing skills as well as managing my anxiety. Thank you for this contest.

He sounds like a good recipient for a Buddha Board.

I'd also think of a pile of great books that delve into the therapy/specialty he's interested in, knowledge goes with any lifestyle. Or maybe a book on how to build furniture yourself that's easy to make and light on the environment.

> Preferably something basic, that improves quality of life and will last a lifetime.

Victorinox Swiss army knife with lots of necessary features. For $50 I don't know too many things that will last a lifetime, maybe someone else here knows better.

HandHook I think you'll love this

/u/argirl09 (my latest newbie) has a water writing board thing on her list. I've played with one and can say that if five minutes of readability is too much but you also don't want the ability to erase your work at will, this is for you. Do you have cats? They'll enjoy drinking from and pushing over the water glass you leave out to use with the board.

Small container of lube.

https://www.amazon.com/Buddha-Board-100-The-Original/dp/B0010TEFFQ

I got it as a gift. But, it's nice. It's kind of kitcshy, but it's calming/relaxing to draw/write on it. Just requires water. It comes with the brush.

Sanford 35558 Sharpie Oil-Based Paint Marker, Medium Point, White, 1-Count https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PLKRZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2kv2Ab238Q7WY

This one is the way to go.

https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Oil-Based-Marker-Medium-1-Count/dp/B001PLKRZQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1501527144&sr=8-2&keywords=sharpie+oil+based+paint+markers

I used white and red!

Ya man. I absolutely love white tire lettering. Did it on my last bike as well. Looks great in person. Extremely time consuming and strenuous though, to do well. Easier with the tires off the bike of course.

What you need is this Sharpie OIL BASED paint marker. Last basically all season and then some. Very durable

https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Oil-Based-Marker-Medium-1-Count/dp/B001PLKRZQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492483544&sr=8-1&keywords=sharpie+oil+based+white

Sharpie oil-based paint:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PLKRZQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I got 4 of them, but two covered the tires pretty well with about 3 coats each.

Here is the link to the pen I used. It's oil based so it won't come off with water.

You know what, that's actually a good map! It's pretty clear and represents a good start.

/r/mapmaking is a good place to look around, and there's even helpful threads popping up all the time. If you decide to get more serious about making maps, I'd recommend a Wacom tablet for drawing on a computer. You can use free tools like GIMP or Krita. Of course you can use a mouse with these, but pen & tablet is easier.

If sticking to regular paper, get something like these. Good pens of different thicknesses. If you can express terrain using only "textures" in black & white (here is an example I found on /r/mapmaking), you can really make it pop once you start adding color!

Biggest tip is to just keep at it. And don't be afraid to re-do things over and over to try out different styles.

Gotcha, in that case, here's a few well worth adding to any collection if it's not too late:

Bic Soft Feel Medium Easy to control when pushing softly, reliable ink flow. Great for light lines and construction. The tip does displace by about a mm when you press hard, so it makes dark lines more difficult to reliably create.


Zebra Z-Grip Max Harder to control for lighter lines as the ink flows a little too well. The tip has no displacement though, which means darker lines are much easier to create reliably compared to the bic.


Zebra Z-Grip Flight aka Z-Grip Smooth in the UK. Similar to the Max, no nib displacement, but the ink flows so freely, this is not something to be used for light construction. Very smooth if you like that sort of thing.

The cheap crystal and disposable ballpoints you find all around are OK, but the ink flow is unreliable. On rough paper, they generally have stable nibs and can produce almost pencil-like lines, but they stop and start working so often, it can be annoying.


Non-Ballpoint honorable mentions:

Pilot Hi-Tec C 0.3 - Free flowing hybrid pen. No variation in line-weight, and no going back. Unforgiving but fun when you're searching for ideas and not caring about the final quality.


Pilot G-Tec C4 0.4 - As above, but the 0.1mm difference is significant. Usually used to add line weight to sketches done in the 0.3.


Staedler Pigment Liners - Unfortunately mistaken to be 'markers' because people keep calling them that. Smooth and reliable ink flow with the hard nib. Much thicker and less scratchy than the Hi-Tecs, and far less forgiving. Worth getting a whole set as preferences will vary and the size difference between each is significant. Restrictive as they don't work well at shallow angles, but on the plus side, you can marker over them.

Most importantly, if you're going to be drawing using ballpoints, make sure to accompany it with toothy/rough paper. The paper is 80% of it imo. Smooth stuff just doesn't cut it with ballpoints if you want a consistently high level of control over line weights.

There are lots more of course, but these are my experiences so far.

Good luck!

It's a staedtler pigment liner. They come in packs from 0.05 to 0.8. I use them all the time, perfect for tiny details

The regular Staedler fineliners run, but their "pigment" liners don't.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004L87XRA/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467672443&sr=sr-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=Staedtler

Get yourself a pack of good ol' Staedtler pigment liners. You can't go wrong. Link for reference: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004L87XRA/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1492185452&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=staedtler&dpPl=1&dpID=51U5RvwpsEL&ref=plSrch

Ever look into getting something more like a pigment pen? I admit, I'm a Pilot G2 guy myself so I am interested in seeing what recommendations there.

Something like the Staedtler or Sakura is what I am referring to. They have a bit more bleed-through if you are writing on standard A4 paper, but when I've had the pleasure of using those types of instruments I am never disappointed.

I'm a beginner who probably has more money than skill, but I would absolutely recommend a Flexcut set. This would be a great choice on a budget.

Most important thing is to make sure you keep the tools as sharp as possible. Flexcut makes a "variable" strop that works on a bunch of different tools and comes with polishing compound.

If you only want to buy a knife, Mora is a great alternative to Flexcut. A knife similar to the KN12 should be roughly the same cost-wise. You can make your own strop out of an old leather belt glued to some wood, so just do some research online for more info and then all you need to buy is some polishing compound.

Flexcut makes good carving tools at reasonable prices. This is a great starter set, IMHO.

Flexcut Beginner Palm & Knife Set, All-Purpose Cutting Knife and Detail Knife Included, with 2 Palm Tools (KN600) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005EG033Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XORFDb8F3QMA6

$60 on Amazon . 2 knives and 2 gouges. they come sharp and are pretty easy to keep sharp (I bought that brand's slipstrop for sharpening).

Which would be easier to start with? I see the benefit of both. Do you have a rotary tool that you would recommend? I've browsed around and was thinking about the Dremel 4000 here but part of me wants to go the hand route....I can do that inside my house without pissing anyone off as much with a rotary. Any recommendations on knives and micros? What about there and here. I'd like to stay under or around $100.00 on my first go of tools. Thanks again

Heya! Thanks for stopping by.

It can be a bit tricky, depending on what materials and tools he has already.

• Amazon Shows a wide variety of books.
  
  If he wants more whittling-style knives, Amazon is also a place for this.
  
  
• This knife set isn't too bad. See, what you're wanting to look for here are knives that are comfortable to use. The curves and ovaloid shaped handles make them more comfortable for longer periods of whittling.
  
  
• Quite a few people swear by Mora knives.
  
  If he's the outdoorsy type, then any nice range pocket knife will work (as long as it looks / feels comfortable to hold!). The spirit of Whittling is in the doing, not so much in the materials used.
  
  Other accessories that could go well could be safety gloves (no one wants to cut themselves !), A place for him to store wood, or even a bench perhaps.
  
  Really, it's up to what he already has and his wants. Hope this helps!
  

This was the set I bought. If you have a Woodcraft near you, that's also a great place to start for buying individual tools and accessories.

Outside of the blades, I'd suggest a thumb guard, slipstrop (or back of an old leather belt), and sharpening compound.

Well, if you are looking for a wide variety of tools: i started with these

Though to start you would probably do fine with just a knife

or if you want to spend a little more you can't go wrong with drake

It's tough to recommend a knife as a starting point though. Obviously I don't want to say "You need to go out and spend a bunch of money, or you'll regret it" Because the truth is you would probably be fine with the knife sets you were looking at before.

I would say 1 good quality knife is better than 5 poor quality knives though. I have no personal experience with the sets you were looking at, but I have seen a few random posts where people have expressed that the sets they found at hobby lobby didn't hold their edges very well, which can be a frustrating experience.

At the same time, spending 10 dollars on a set of knives, might be all you need to decide if you are into the hobby or not and want to spend more money on it. It's tough. I would however go into that situation knowing that if you spend 10 dollars on a set of 5 knives, odds are good in a short amount of time if you decide you are into the hobby, you will feel their lack and want better knives.

Eventually when I cave and get an airbrush I'll be getting the NEO CN Gravity Feed Dual Action Airbrush $58 and the Master Airbrush High Performance Airbrush Air Compressor $66.

I've got this one from Amazon. Several friends also have it. It works like a champ and is economically priced too.

Are you also into print and play then?

Thanks for the link, I'll go for this one instead. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sunstar-Kadomaru-Corner-S4765036-Japanese/dp/B0076FJ7SS/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_pdt_img_sims?ie=UTF8

1. Go to office max, print furry cards on double-sided glossy stock for >$.75 a page
   
2. Cut them out using a paper cutter or a ruler + razor blade
   
3. Get one of these bad babies and round those corners!
   
4. BAM cards that you can mix in with your regular deck with CONFIDENCE!

hah yea. I got a corner punch just for this campaign. I print on cardstock so they have some thickness to them. All my HotAC printed cards are cut that way :)

Its time consuming, but looks really good.

[edit] Wow. I made a list in Excel of all the extra pilots and i totally missed Braylen :| feels bad. Glad you got it in your list tho haha.

Here's a big fat messy shopping list I made for someone a while ago. You might find it useful too.

http://www.amazon.com/Quickshade-Ink-Warpaints-Army-Painter/dp/B00HC8D80W
Amazon.com: Quickshade Ink Set Warpaints Army Painter

http://www.amazon.com/Pacer-Technology-Zap-Zap-Adhesives/dp/B00SXJJ2QI
Amazon.com: Pacer Technology (Zap) Pacer Technology (Zap) Zap-A-Gap Adhesives, 1 oz

http://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B0009RRT9Y
Amazon.com : General Pencil Company The Masters Brush Cleaner & Preserver 2.5 0z. : Brush Soap

http://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Wargame-Starter-Paint/dp/B01BJ55UDQ
Buy Army Painter Wargame Starter Paint Set - PLUS Promo Undead figure

http://www.amazon.com/280715-American-Accents-Primer-12-Ounce/dp/B00KZ6LLZW?
Buy Rust Oleum 280715 American Accents Ultra Cover 2X Spray Paint, White Primer, 12-Ounce

http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6655-Needle-File-10-Piece/dp/B000NPUKYS?
TEKTON 6655 Needle File Set, 10-Piece

http://www.amazon.com/Xacto-X3311-Precision-Knife-Blades/dp/B0000DD1N4?
Buy Xacto X3311 N0. 1 Precision Knife With 5 No. 11 Blades

http://www.amazon.com/Most-Wanted-Wargamer-Set/dp/B007H4YR8S
Amazon.com: 1 X Most Wanted Wargamer Brush Set

http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-170-II-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBSFAI
Xuron 170-II Micro-Shear Flush Cutter: Wire Cutters

http://www.amazon.com/Milliput-Standard-2-Part-Hardening-Yellow/dp/B011BO9R5W
Amazon.com: 2 X Milliput Standard 2-Part Self Hardening Putty, Yellow/Grey

Edit: Of, and I used this guide for making my Thinner. http://www.reapermini.com/Thecraft/15 But I'm going to experiment more, because this is not perfect.

Miniatures Paint Brush Set of 3 Miniature Paint Brushes - Insane Detail, Regiment and Small Drybrush - Quality Detail Brush Set Handmade in Europe - Wargamer Most Wanted Brush Set by The Army Painter

I am clueless with cutters, drills, sculpting-- I can make a snake out of green stuff. But for brushes and paints-- aha! I have your back.

Can you order from Amazon? These aren't CHEAP, quite, but they are really really great and can do just about anything! Link: http://amzn.com/B007H4YR8S

Also, these aren't nearly as good as Vallejo or Reaper paints, but they are far more affordable and if you use a wet pallete you can dab them with water for the perfect texture. Also, they mix very well (this is just one of the sets, you can compare others of this or Apple Barrel brands)
http://amzn.com/B00ATJSDHE

[Kaizen foam] (https://www.amazon.com/Fastcap-Kaizen-Foam-57mm-Black/dp/B007J2JJYK) would work. You could use a hole saw or a razor to cut the diameter you need and you just peel off layers until you get the exact thickness you want. It's really easy to work with.

Amazon has full 2’x4’ sheets of Kaizen foam for $32.50, you’d just have to cut them to fit your PACKOUT. The link is for the 57mm (2-1/4”) foam, so may have to browse for the thinner ones if that’s what you need. Fastcap does sell their own adhesive to hold multiple layers together, but you could probably use something like 3M’s Super 77, which can be found at most craft/home improvement stores. Fastcap Kaizen Foam 57mm (2-1/4”) Black

Otherwise you can buy them pre-cut fromKaizeninserts.com for your particular box. Comes in different height/color options, just cost a bit more.

https://www.amazon.com/Fastcap-Kaizen-Foam-57mm-Black/dp/B007J2JJYK

I used this stuff. I'm not sure what thickness/size you need, but do a search for 'kaizen foam' on Amazon and it'll cough up the sizes/thicknesses available.

Yeah I tried that at first but wasnt very happy with the results, the pluck and pull type was really hard to just cut a form fitting shape, too soft, and I ended up ripping it even with a brand new exacto blade. This stuff cost a good bit, but it was totally worth it in regards to end quality of the entire case. It's still discounted a bit, though I did grab it when it was half off. If you go with this case, 2-¼" is exactly what you want.

Fastcap Kaizen Foam 57mm (2-1/4") Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007J2JJYK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Cx.1DbFMXAC1J

Get the 40% or more off coupon code at Michaels, you can use your phone. See if you can get 40% off all, instead of just one item. Otherwise bring a friend and use it on the expensive items.

• 15$ to 30$ - Paints like Winsor & Newton or Reeves or Prima I would avoid Artist Loft's paint as I have no experiance but other Michaels stuff is hit or miss. I think cakes is easiest to start with.
  
• 2$ - Palette or something to mix on. Dollar Store is probably good enough, otherwise like 5$.
  
• 20$ Paper - Canson or Strathmore make good tear off sheets. Make sure it says watercolour. A pad of paper is easier to start with then a bound sketchbook. These are usually on a buy two get one free type sale.
  
• 15$ - A brush set or Waterbrush if she travels with it (if you get this get it on amazon its overpriced in store) aim for something soft and labelled student or professioinal. Basically not Crayola.
  
• EDIT a WATERPROOF Sharpie.
  
  Depending on sales you can probably get everything for 50$. You might be able to get under 40$ but it'll be damn hard. The drawing pencils and kneaded erasers are cheapest at an art store where they will be sold loose for a few dollars, however with Christmas coming up also keep an eye out for sketching sets as they will use a like 5.99$ one to get all the art students back in stores and tempt them with other things

Oh goodness, if you like ink you muuuust try Inktense blocks!! There is a 24 set with WHITE! I know it's not "traditional" to have white, but I love em! They go on dry, then add the water OR you can premix with water and use the ink that way. Once it is wet and has dried. You can go over it again with out worry the under layer will smear!! (Long as all the dry portions were wet at some point and dried.) IT IS AWESOME!

The company Derwent also has a set of Inktense pencils that work the same way, and keep your hands somewhat cleaner.

Also you can set Inktense on fabric, so designing on shirts, quilts and what have you is just eaaasy! There are a LOT of ways to use these! Printmaking, watercolors, stamping, inking, washes!~ Add to gesso or Mod Podge for a colored glaze! Lots of things really... It can cater to the professionals, amateurs and beginners!

There is also a set of water pens that you may be interested in, with trying these. I have always used brushes though, with water.. Or I wet the brush, and just dab it on the lil block its self. Or chip off a lil piece of color and add water to it on a little pallet. (Piece of plastic lol.)


Question: Can the name be computerized, long as it is drawn? Aka mouse/tablet?

I currently use kuretake watercolors with these brush pens and I think they’re pretty solid. It’s not a huge investment and I think they’re a good starter pack for casual water colorists.

I highly also recommend clipping your pages and having maybe a hair dryer handy so your pages don’t warp from getting too wet.

Pentel Arts Aquash Water Brush Assorted Tips, Pack of 3

You could put just plain water, diluted watercolor paint, ink etc.. in them.

Edit: just noticed /u/Blanchetastic posted a similar item, hers cost less though.

Like this


Pentel Arts Aquash Water Brush Assorted Tips, Pack of 3 (FRHBFMBP3) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AX31TZO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rQ6ODb5XA48JZ

I’m new as well but I’ve done lots (maybe too much) research. What is your budget? From what I understand Windsor & Newton Cotman paints are a good student/hobby grade paint. They sell them in nifty little 12 pan kits that pretty much provide all the colors you need to make good mixes.

Here is a travel set for about $13:
Winsor & Newton Cotman Water Colour Sketchers Pocket Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004THXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qq8Tzb8SY82G3

If you are willing to spend a little more on paint for artist grade I hear excellent things about these: St Petersburg White Nights Watercolour : NEW 12 Pan Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006FHNE3C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Gt8TzbT5PD01H

I’ve seen these really cool portable brushes: High-end art travel painting brush Synthetic Sable Round Hair Short Handle Brush for Acrylic Oil and watercolor painting 3Pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M3VMDED/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5r8TzbVV97JR3

Or you can use a water brush: Pentel Arts Aquash Water Brush Assorted Tips, Pack of 3 (FRHBFMBP3) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AX31TZO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Os8TzbN7TW9AQ

As for Paper, I really want one of these myself: Moleskine Watercolor Album Sketchbook - 5"x8" (Spanish Edition) https://www.amazon.com/dp/8883705629/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vz8TzbWWMHY1M


I hope this helps! :)

Airbrush Booth - You really shouldn't breath in the fumes. If you are painting indoors, you should use something like this to capture and filter the overspray/fumes. This is in addition to wearing a mask. You will see people in youtube tutorials not wearing masks and not using a booth - it's really bad practice if you care about your brain cells. I like the one below, but the fan is louder than the compressor.

80$ on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush®-Portable-Airbrush-Painting/dp/B00BMUH8L6?ie=UTF8&ref_=pe_385040_128020140_TE_3p_dp_1

$20- Paint mask/respirator - See notes above. I use one designed for spray painting.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-07192-Paint-Spray-Medium/dp/B0002STR22/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469825823&sr=8-1&keywords=Spray+paint+mask

Airbrush - I recommend starting cheap until you get a hang of it. It's easy to damage parts. It's been a while since I've researched, so I apologize for having forgotten the terms. You want an airbrush that is fed from a cup on top (gravity fed?), a trigger to control the air separately from the paint (maybe called dual action?), and needles .2 to .5mm. This airbrush came with a quick connect (to snap on and off of the compressor hose), which is a big convenience. They are cheap if you need to buy separately.
$30 https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Precision-Airbrush-Valve-Crenelated/dp/B004KNDQMM?ie=UTF8&ref_=pe_385040_128020140_TE_3p_dp_1

$10Airbrush cleaner fluid and brushes - to flush the airbrush and clean it after use.

$10- Airbrush cleaning pot - You spray cleaner and excess paint into this.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005H46T0O/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

90$ - Compressor with Tank - The separate tank is key, it will maintain constant pressure very well and provide good steady flow. This one is pretty quiet as compressors go, but still noisy enough that you need to work behind a closed door.
https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Portable-Airbrush-Compressor-Oil-less/dp/B004KNDQCM?ie=UTF8&ref_=pe_385040_128020140_TE_3p_dp_2

$10 - Airbrush hose- https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Airbrush-Braided-Air-Hose/dp/B004KNAH7E?ie=UTF8&ref_=pe_385040_128020140_TE_3p_dp_5

All in, it cost me $250 before paint.

I bought this.

Link

I've been thinking about picking THIS one up. It is really well received in the watch collecting community. I love the little leather pouch on yours.

I've been very happy with this. I'd steer you away from cheaper loupes.

I will second the 10x Belomo, although the price is closer to $30-35. The loupe feels very sturdy and has a much larger lens than the Bausch and Lomb. Belomo recommends you purchase through an authorized dealer but the page seems outdated. It appears the authorized Amazon seller ToysNGames (who I purchased mine from) is now called River Colony Trading.

I see above you are considering 30-60x magnification... Depending on what you want to use it for that may be overkill. A 10x is entirely sufficient for grading, determining varieties and counterfeit detection for most collectors.

Hey I just read a comment the other day about how a quality 10x loupe is better than anything else and all you'll ever need, so I gave it a shot.

At first I was using this and it was OK. The 30x lens was easiest to use but still sucked so much.

I just got this one today and I am blown away. The quality of the optics and construction is unbelievable. I can't wait to look at trichs with it. Definitely invest in a good lens.

I see 60x loupes with LED light mentioned in this thread as well as a few others very recently. Awhile back someone linked to a Belomo on Amazon, which I bought. The Belomo is a 10x

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EXPWU8S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Was this purchase made in error and I should make it a point to get the higher magnification loupe with LED? Or can I make things work with this loupe and my own separate LED?

This is the tank I got. And this is the airbrush I got. So far they have been working well (only airbrushing for a month). Check out the company's Amazon store or their website for some cheaper item that they might have. Hope it helps.

There really are no pros of tankless compressor compared to one with a tank. A tankless one will run hotter and louder because it has to constantly run in order to maintain air pressure. The airflow is also more irregular which makes detail work with a airbrush much more annoying.

The first link is a airbrush ready compressor with a tank that should do what you need it to. The second is compressor that would need some fittings, hose, and moisture trap in order to work with airbrushing. The second one has the advantage of being a bigger tank and more horsepower so it would have to turn on for shorter amounts of time to fill the tank and you can go longer with the bigger tank before the compressor has to kick in again.

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Model-TC-40T-Single-Piston/dp/B00WBT7PTW/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=airbrush+compressor&qid=1570806689&sr=8-4

https://www.amazon.com/California-Air-Tools-CAT-1P1060S-Compressor/dp/B01LYHYHEA/ref=sr_1_6?crid=2HGLY5E1Q5YZ0&keywords=hitachi%2Bair%2Bcompressor&qid=1570807162&sprefix=hitachi%2Bair%2Caps%2C183&sr=8-6&th=1&psc=1

1000x this.

Nothing will piss you off more than being in the middle of laying down a coat of perfectly thinned paint and having to completely stop because your can is empty.

Plus you can't really regulate airflow accurately with a can, and as you use it the pressure will fall.

I just got this for christmas: www.amazon.com/dp/B00WBT7PTW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xDAzybP26VSJW

Its so much better than the $30 tankless Harbor Freight airbrush compressor I was using.

I bought this ONE
about 4 months ago and have built about 6 kits with it and it has performed great.

I use this one. I haven't experimented with different magnifications, but 30x seemed fine. As another use pointed out above, you might want a cheap USB microscope instead

A magnifying loupe is super useful here, and they're not too expensive. I got one similar to this, which I like for the LED -- I very rarely use the 60x lens.

But that'll show you how your tines are misaligned, which I presume is the problem causing scratchyness. If so, it's easy to fix with just fingers -- don't use pliers or anything 'till you've been doing this for years, they make it too easy to apply way too much force to a small area.

vertical misalignment

spacing misalignment

I got this one for about $10 https://www.amazon.com/Lighted-Illuminated-Jewelers-Magnifier-Antiques/dp/B01DWG89KQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1504493035&sr=8-3&keywords=loupe and it works great, I prefer it to the Goulet type, which doesn't enlarge enough for me. I haven't tried one that fits on your head. The loupe enlarges the view so much and has such a small, shallow focal area that it would be hard to keep anything in focus while you were actually working on it. That really isn't a problem though - you make a tiny adjustment, check it, make another tiny adjustment, etc.

I just bought this one and it's great:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DWG89KQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's best to check the trichomes with a loupe.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DWG89KQ/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.growweedeasy.com/harvest#trichome-method

That unit will work, but a bunch of manufacturers make near-identical compressors and some are cheaper, like this one.

​

Some reviews note poor quality on the fitting between the air tank and the water trap/regulator assembly, but that hasn't been my experience. Maybe quality control has improved since those reviews, or maybe I just got lucky. Your mileage may very.

Without knowing the condition of the brushes/compressor, you can get a new compressor and brush for about the same price. Honestly starting out it would probably be more confusing to have all those brushes at your disposal instead of becoming proficient with one.

​

Compressor with tank - $70

Badger 105 brush - - $78

Cleaning kit - $14

Total new (minus tax) - $162

For your budget I'll go with a Badger Patriot 105 Arrow, it's so easy to use and clean and the Arrow will give you a fine line if needed. A cheap compressor with a tank and a quick connect and you're good to go !

Badger Patriot Arrow : https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-Co-105-2XR-Airbrush/dp/B00471RFQA/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=badger+patriot+105&qid=1567304916&s=gateway&sprefix=badger+pa&sr=8-5

Quick connect Badger for all hose : https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-Co-51-038-Disconnect/dp/B000BPOJCO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=badger+quick+connect&qid=1567305182&s=gateway&sprefix=badger+qui&sr=8-3

Cheap Compressor : https://www.amazon.com/ZENY-Airbrush-Compressor-Airbrushing-Multipurpose/dp/B01M33C8MV/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=airbrush+compressor+with+tank&qid=1567305014&s=gateway&sprefix=airbrush+compressor+&sr=8-3

With airbrush cleaner and thinner, and a cleaner pot, I think I fit your budget.... You can use the standard Badger Patriot 105 but the needle is .75mm instead of .5mm so you get less fines lines

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M33C8MV/ :-)

The problem with that kind of compressors are that they don't give out a stable amount of air. That means it may start spitting paint instead of giving a nice constant flow of air/paint.
You're going to get all sorts of opinions. Ones will say they work well, some others (like me), would recommend something with an air tank.
https://www.amazon.com/Zeny-Airbrush-Compressor-Regulator-Filter/dp/B01M33C8MV/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482100140&sr=8-2&keywords=airbrush+compressor+with+tank

Something like that will do the work, it will last you very long if treated correctly and in the long run will save you some money. If you buy the cheap one, even if you only use it for priming and base coating, you will want to get a better one very soon.

In the end, the choice is yours, of course :)

thats a great starter airbrush and should be perfect as a workhorse.

you just need a basic airbrush compressor to start with. the cost goes up the more quiet the compressor is while building up pressure.

i use this kit https://www.amazon.com/ZENY-Airbrush-Compressor-Multipurpose-Tattoo/dp/B01M33C8MV/ref=sr_1_20?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1526986007&sr=1-20&keywords=airbrush+compressor

the hose it comes with should work with the neo.

You can get a tankless one .

It runs near constantly and can heat up. They are not ideal, but can do the trick for small jobs. I tend to work on my models for an entire day once a week, so I have one with a 3L tank.

If you got the super cheapie one there for $60 you could get the Badger 105 and you would probably have a little bit left over.

There is also this one. It is cheaper, so I really can’t speak to it’s quality.

I got these for Christmas about two years back and they're just starting to wear out. Ultimately you get what you pay for but with synthetic sables you don't get much more than this.

https://www.amazon.com/Miniature-Brushes-Detailing-Painting-Watercolor/dp/B01M7UFLP5/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=miniature+painting+brushes&qid=1564507214&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExS1BLUURHNlgzWEFSJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMzA4OTAyMTZBM0haMDRXNjE0UCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODA4NzcwMUVJQVBSMDBWUlRJMyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

My wife got me [these] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7UFLP5/ref=sspa_dk_detail_7?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01M7UFLP5&pd_rd_wg=Hqg12&pd_rd_r=GMZA1YXY0ZPFRENFSJW4&pd_rd_w=dYSlN) for my birthday and I really like them. But I also use other brushes I've picked up, just general craft painting ones.

Edit: craft painting ones for painting larger areas and models.

Oh sorry for not being clear. I meant the brushes you linked to in your post. These guys: brushes

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XR4SD1V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_s-mACbEWVTS2Y

worth the 9 bucks

Mmm hmm.

https://www.amazon.com/Fake-Outlet-Stickers-Prank-Electrical/dp/B06XR4SD1V/

Spray booth with a filter. Something like this on Amazon

Hey! I was in a similar situation a few months ago with around a $200 budget as well. Here's what I got:

Airbrush: Iwata Revolution - It's a great airbrush and is almost always on sale on Amazon for under $100. It's easy to use, easy to clean, and is solvent safe, meaning you can spray more than just acrylics.

Compressor: Master Airbrush - I wanted something with a tank on it because I didn't want it to run the entire time, and this one fit the bill. It's super quiet (I can even run it at night), and it comes with a moisture trap, which is super important. It also comes with a hose!

That brings everything to about $200, so there's not much wiggle room to fit other stuff in if you draw a hard line on your budget, but definitely consider:

Spray Booth: Master Airbrush- This thing is amazing. I love it. It's compact and super easy to use. It folds up super tidy and even has a button to retract the cord.

Cleaner: Iwata-Medea Airbrush Cleaner - comes in different sizes, but it's been wonderful when cleaning out my brush between paints or when I need to do my monthly field-strip.

Thinner, Retarder, and Flow Improver: Vallejo products!- I love the Vallejo Auxillaries. They're easy to use, pretty cheap, and widely available depending where you live.

Amazon has a spray booth for about 80 bucks that is very compact when put away. This is enough for most people but if you want to be extra careful, use a respirator.

I'm looking to get a spray booth for airbrushing. Amazon has a bunch of those fold-up all-in-one booths like this in the $90-$120 range. I'm wondering if anyone can vouch for their effectiveness. It just needs to do an OK job venting lacquer fumes from an airbrush, I won't be using any spray cans with it.

If those things are junk, I'm wondering if anyone has built one of those DIY plastic bin type booths, and can recommend a good, budget-priced fan to use.

https://www.amazon.com/Airbrush-Cleaning-STARVAST-Cleaner-Station/dp/B0794SX16Y/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1526263410&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=airbrush+cleaner&psc=1

This is a must have if you want to airbrush - I have the same kit and the key is to always clean after every session or between colors - I usually run thinner, then windshield washer fluid (or windex original - with ammonia), and water (repeat until the airbrush spews clear) - no need to buy specific airbrush cleaner solutions

If your compressor doesn't turn on when you plug it in, you need to increase the pressure (lift and twist the black knob and turn towards the plus sign - 25-30psi will be fine)

A lot of people use Citadel but I'm more used to Tamiya but the concept is the same - thin paints (in general 1:1 paint:thinner) prior to airbrushing

I would stick to the dual-action guns over the single-action in that kit since the former has more utility and control - I haven't found a use for single-action yet but I'm sure there is - all you need to know is pushing down the trigger controls air flow while pulling up on the trigger controls how much paint comes out - practice on paper first

I've heard that using windex is a great alternative to using thinner for acrylic paints but I haven't tried yet - if so, then it's a great money saver

I would also look into a airbrush booth if you plan to paint indoors to collect the fumes - I have the generic portable one and it works great (https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Portable-Painting-T-shirts/dp/B00BMUH8L6/ref=pd_sbs_201_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00BMUH8L6&pd_rd_r=36F6CYT7WNA7Q9Y4AVS9&pd_rd_w=18wRl&pd_rd_wg=V3l93&psc=1&refRID=36F6CYT7WNA7Q9Y4AVS9)

r/modelmakers has a great post on airbrushing if you need further help including how to and maintenance

Hm. Either way your link was caught in reddit’s spam filter because it has affiliate Tag information in the link.

Use this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BMUH8L6

So, I was thinking of starting my airbrushing career with this. I only plan on using Vallejo air colors with a respirator mask. Do I need to get the venting tube?

Only thing I recommend is picking up some drop cloths to make clean-up easier; it's not nearly as bad as spray paint, but some particles will still cover the ground. I bought this to use with it, and it's greatly reduced dusting.

This spray booth might be what you need.

http://amzn.com/B00BMUH8L6

The hose can be closed in a window to vent most of the fumes. I would still recommend taking precautions to guard against mist getting on other things in the room but I use this booth in my basement and vent it like a dryer and it work fine. It is not overly large and it closes up into a compact form for storage.

[Estwing Leather Hammer] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Estwing-Rock-Pointed-Leather-Grip-/dp/B0002YWWVE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=8-1&keywords=Estwing+leather+rock)

and

[Belomo Triplet Loupe] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Belomo-Diamond-Loupe-Triplet-Magnifying/dp/B00EXPWU8S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1409975334&sr=8-2&keywords=belomo+10x+triplet+loupe)

It's obvious once you've seen it. I have a Carson 7x loupe. Grab a flashlight and point it at the coin. Look through the loupe. If there are tons of tiny scratches in one direction, it's cleaned. If you rotate the coin and see tons of tiny scratches in the same direction while the coin is rotating, it's cleaned. Basically, if there are any micro scratches in a little cluster, clusters, or on the whole coin, is cleaned.

If you don't have a loupe, I recommend you get one. They're also good for familiarizing yourself with real coins so that you can spot fakes. I'm surprised how easy it's gotten.

I have these and really like them.

Carson LumiLoupe 7X Power Stand Magnifier With Dual Lens (LL-77) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010PCL5Q

BelOMO 10x Triplet Loupe Folding Magnifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EXPWU8S

I have this one https://www.amazon.com/BelOMO-Triplet-Folding-Magnifier-Anti-Reflection/dp/B00EXPWU8S/ref=mp_s_a_1_35?keywords=jewlers+lupe&qid=1568929940&sprefix=jewler&sr=8-35. Works like a charm.

I use a magnifying loupe. No batteries required. A good one is the BelOMO. Get it at https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EXPWU8S

I don't think a lot of people here use loupes, and there's no one brand that they use. I happen to use this 10X one. There may be cheaper/better ones, though. Also, note that this is a 10X loupe. I have a 7X one (same brand) that I like better, as it has a wider field-of-view (less magnification). However, it doesn't seem to be available any more.

Get something between 5x and 10x. Triplets are going to be some of the nicer ones.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=bausch+%26+lomb+triplet+loupe&ref=nb_sb_noss_2
https://www.amazon.com/BelOMO-Triplet-Loupe-Folding-Magnifier/dp/B00EXPWU8S/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=triplet+loupe&qid=1555943740&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I bought the BelOMO most recently and like it a little more because it's bigger. I had owned and lost two of the bausch & lombs before getting this one.

A 10X triplet loupe is a great place to start. I use one of these though it's probably a little pricey.

Also, there's a lot of cheap USB microscopes around these days, and I've found them to be pretty useful for trace/solder inspection on fine pitch SMDs.

please take into account the air compressor too. It can have a major impact on your airbrushing experiences. There are some decent starting ones like:

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Model-TC-40T-Single-Piston/dp/B00WBT7PTW/ref=sr_1_5?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1543076176&sr=1-5&keywords=airbrush+compressor

I used this one for quite awhile with pretty good results but it is loud. I ended up recently buying an iwata compressor and it is super nice but they are expensive.

Master Airbrush Model TC-40T - Cool Runner Professional High Performance Single-Piston Airbrush Air Compressor with 3-Liter Air Tank, 2 Holders, Regulator, Gauge, Water Trap Filter & Air Hose https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WBT7PTW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rMd.BbDVWTCWX

This one is awesome.

If you want a small compressor you want something like this. They come with and without the airtank but if you're willing to shell out the bucks one with a tank is a better option. The one you've linked isn't really suitable to your needs. You could look at a deal like this one and then get a better airbrush as your next purchase. As well, check out sites like harborfreight, they often have deals on compressors.

Save your money you are like $100 bucks off getting a decent set up.

Edit: Let me elaborate on my reasons a little bit.

You want an air compressor with a tank and an automatic on/off switch.

This will keep your airbrush from getting pulsating air and the on/off switch will extend the life of your compressor (so will the tank as it isn't running all the time). Some added bonuses is being able to work without a lot of noise.

There are some cheap ones you can buy on amazon. ( TheTC-40T and the Master Tank Compressor)

Airbrushes are tricky. but you still can get soem good ones under $100. Like the Badger Krome RK-1, Badger 105 Patriot, Iwata Neo (Not made by Iwata but supported by them), and Iwata Revolution

I just went through this myself and am very happy with my purchases. This is a complete entry level set with the tools you will need to maintain it. Assuming you're US based, you could have everything Monday with Prime shipping.

• Airbrush - $27 - This is a basic brush with the ability to change between 0.2, 0.3(most common), and 0.5mm tips. This gives you the flexibility to go from precise to blanket applications.
  
  
• Compressor - $120 - I opted for a model with a tank to help regulate the air output. The compressor still ends up running most of the time during extended applications so I'm not sure how much it helps but I didn't want to take chances. You could save ~$40 by getting a model without a tank. You could always add a tank later if you feel the need.
  
  
• Cleaner - $12 - You need this before you even think about starting. One cleaner seems about as good as another so pick whatever.
  
  
• Tools - $7 - You will need to clean paint from the internals. Some of these brushes will work for that. There seems to be differing opinions in the community over how useful these are but I opted for them and use them every so often.
  
  
• Cleaning Pot - $15 - You will need one for your station and everyone uses this one. Definitely spray the cleaner through into this.
  
  
• Wash Bottle - $6 - 500 mL bottle you fill with water. This will allow you to rinse the pot at your station without having to go to a sink (though you still might use one often). Get a bucket or tupperware container to rinse into.
  
  This will allow you to setup a bare-bones station. You could also get a fume hood or just spray into a box in a well ventilated room. Get a good white led light (if you don't have on already) to illuminate your workspace and you're good to go.

u/didgeboy and u/Monti21 make valid points. I picked up an inexpensive air compressor and cheap airbursh from Amazon. While the compressor is has turned out to be very nice - quiet, easily adjustable - I upgraded to an Iwata Neo and haven't touched the cheap airbrush since. I've picked up a second Neo, and am now looking to buy something for more detailed work. Paint flow through the better airbrushes is much more consistent. I've really enjoyed the learning curve!

Thanks for the suggestion! Saw a few people complain about that unit getting too hot so I spent a little more to get their TC-40T model which has a built in fan.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WBT7PTW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks for the info!

So now I'm look at the Iwata Revolution and TC-40T. Do you have any other recommendations for tanked compressors? How do you refill the airtank?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQS3UW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ACD4013XBS5C9&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WBT7PTW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A23ADOZFIJNPFB&psc=1

You should get one...

Sorry I didn't see your reply, I use a loupe I got from amazon and I'm pretty happy with it.

DREAME 30X 60X LED Lighted Illuminated Jewelers Eye Loupe Jewelry Magnifier for Gems Jewelry Rocks Stamps Coins Watches Hobbies Antiques Models Photos https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DWG89KQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_jzAkWlzFE5QCn

Those pics are taken with my iPhone 7 though the 60x magnifier.

https://www.amazon.com/DREAME-Illuminated-Jewelers-Magnifier-Antiques/dp/B01DWG89KQ?keywords=loup&qid=1536167268&sr=8-6&ref=mp_s_a_1_6

I personally use: https://www.amazon.com/DREAME-Illuminated-Jewelers-Magnifier-Antiques/dp/B01DWG89KQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539801468&sr=8-3&keywords=loupe

The bigger lens is mostly useless but the smaller one lets me tell if the tines are even even slightly misaligned and if there is a sharp edge somewhere which is great. You can also watch a comparison vid here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RzfHkJggT7A

Im using this one: https://www.amazon.com/DREAME-Illuminated-Jewelers-Magnifier-Antiques/dp/B01DWG89KQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480381794&sr=8-1&keywords=jewelers+loupe
has x30 and x60 and im pretty Happy with it, might want to give it a try. :)

yea i went from this handheld loupe to the USB scope. Glad I did, it really is more convenient imo to snap photos and record video. Even has a button on the butt of it that you tap and it snaps photos. And can be hooked up to android phones if you get an OTG adapter too

I'd check out a TWSBI Eco. Very nice pens for about 30 euros. Order it in a fine or extra fine nib.

And yeah, you can have some problems. Bleedthrough is an issue that can be solved by using a well behaved ink. Noodler's Black or X-Feather are good inks for preventing this. Using better paper is a good solution, too, but that's more expensive. Black n Red notebooks are pretty cheap and work well. In my experience, TOPS notebooks work super well with fountain pens and are dirt cheap.

A finer nib will be slightly more feedbacky (but it shouldn't be scratchy - it shouldn't feel like it's digging into the paper). If it feels like it's digging into the paper while writing, something's wrong. Try writing figure eights, and if it feels more scratchy in one direction than another, then the tines are probably out of alignment. This is a very very easy fix. All you need to fix it is some sort of magnifier (I find that a 30x/60x jeweler's loupe from Amazon is the best tool to get a good look at the tip of your nib. If you can't afford the ten buck to get one, that's fine, use a magnifying glass or whatever you can get your hands on. Even zoom on a camera would work. If you don't have ANY of that, you can even just do trial and error.

Basically, see if the two metal tines (the two sides of the nib) are misaligned at the tip, and if one is longer than the other. A head-on view and an above view work well for this. If they're misaligned, it's an easy fix and I'll tell you how to do it. If one is too long.... that's more complicated and if that's the case, I'll tell you how to fix it then.

So: To fix misaligned tines, basically just press the one that's too low up with your thumbnail. Don't push hard, just until you feel what feels like a little bit more resistance than you'd use while writing, and then let go. Keep doing this, and check through the magnifier to see if it's aligned yet. If it is, then go ahead and try writing with it and see if it's better. If it's not aligned or not better, keep trying.

Hope this helps, ask me any questions you want! Have a great day!

I use this one, specifically the 30x part to see closer up and have to use my cell phone to take 60x pictures because my hands are just too shaky. I'm probably going to end up ordering the USB microscope I saw somewhere else on this thread haha

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DWG89KQ

This one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DWG89KQ

I bought a Jewelers Loupe from Amazon and held it up in front of my Google Pixel phone. It took a few pictures to get a good one, but my phone has a pretty good camera to work with. I think next time I would get something with 100x, the 60x is decent (what I used for the closer ones), but the 30x is pretty hard to tell what color the trichs are.

I use a 30x/60x loupe with LED lighting. Super cheap and does a fine job. Loupe $11 now, same as when I bought it.

For coins or anything I need a finer, more stable look at, I use a 60x-120x LED-lit microscope. Microscope $13 now, bought it for $6.60 a couple years ago.

This have a tank this dont No tank, its a tank that storage ari so when you are spriying isn't always on. If he doesn't have a tank its always taking air and doing noise and also it hots faster.

I was thinking something along these lines:

ZENY Pro 1/5 HP Airbrush Air Compressor Airbrushing Kit w/ 3L Tank and 6FT Hose Multipurpose for Hobby Paint Cake Tattoo Nail https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M33C8MV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KP4sDb35QGMKY

Not sure what you could do to make it quieter. Maybe sit it on a towel to absorb some of the vibration or something like that?

I think I decided to bite the bullet and just get an airbrush. Here is the setup I was looking at:

Airbrush: https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-Patriot-Gravity-Airbrush/dp/B002W84GTO

Compressor: https://www.amazon.com/ZENY-Airbrush-Compressor-Multipurpose-Tattoo/dp/B01M33C8MV

Just wondering what your thoughts are on this combo and if I need any other adapters/hoses/etc or if these two items will cover it. Also in regards to thinning the Mr. Color paints for the airbrush, what ratio of paint/thinner/leveling thinner should I mix at? (I am in a hot and dry climate)

Would This be a good compressor

I bought this air compressor for airbrushing model kits. I was wondering if I could also use it to dust out my PC. It comes with a moisture trap, but I'm not exactly sure how to deliver the air.

My first thought would be to just use my airbrush, assuming it's completely dry (I can run IPA through it to ensure it's dry) and letting the PC dry overnight (just for added safety), would this be a good idea? Or should I buy a cheap airgun instead?

$65 found this compressor with a tank. Would any of you guys be able to verify that this doesn’t need any adapters to work with an eclipse?

Also has anyone tried the ultra for 100 in comparison to eclipse?

Thanks you guys for getting me pointed in the right direction, there’s an eclipse at Blick right now for $150 and pending any reviews on the ultra I’ll be picking that up!

ZENY Pro 1/5 HP Airbrush Air Compressor Airbrushing Kit w/ 3L Tank and 6FT Hose Multipurpose for Hobby Paint Cake Tattoo Nail https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M33C8MV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wO.KDbYYQ7CR2

Own it myself. External tank and . . . Do I even have to mention the price. Nice unit.

A lot of airbrush compressors you will find are the same Chinese model that has been rebranded. You won't notice any difference in the amount of air pumped or volume it holds so your best bet is to go with the cheapest option on the market.

https://www.amazon.com/ZENY-Multi-purpose-Airbrushing-Compressor-System/dp/B01M33C8MV/

I use an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS (the gravity feed one, and not the CN knockoff) and it works pretty good. My nozzle clogs up every now and again if I've got my thinning slightly off but otherwise, no major problems yet. I ended up picking up the compressor that was discussed here on the wiki and it works pretty well so far, and it's quiet enough that you can't hear it in the room next door. I live in a townhouse so that was really important for me. As with anything though, see what works for you and read reviews. This Amazon link is the exact one that I bought (and according to honey, its about 30% now than it was a month ago, so good time to buy lol).

Beginning Paint Set

Good Beginner Brushes

Palette I still use

This should get you started, the only other thing I'd suggest is getting a black wash (I use citadel paints so I use Nuln Oil, unsure what the technical term for it is). The thing is, I've purchased a ton of stuff. A TON OF STUFF. I never ended up using the Dry Paint set that I got, out of all of the washes I only use two of them on a regular basis and I use expensive brushes now. If you're just starting out it's better to use these synthetic brushes because they're cheaper and you don't have to worry too much if they get ruined. Expensive brushes are great, but you won't know why until you get better.

I first bought this set when i started

Gives you a ton of brushes and you dont have to worry about what happens to them. You will mess them up and learn why. I also think having some cheap sythetics like the ones michaels sells (if in us) is helpful. Synthetic sucks because it doesnt hold much paint but that doesnt mean they cant serve a purpose because they have more spring usually and dont fray at tio as quick. There are several other bruah packs on amazon comprable and maybe better then what i listed. I literally just got my windsor brushes today in mail so i cant comment how much better they are but i know i would have destroyed them if i got them when i started. Its a nice way to reward yourdelf after a few months painting

Legion is my first miniature game as well! A buddy of mine recommended a army painter set when I first started. To be honest they are not that great and a couple of the brushes have fallen apart. I have been eyeing these brushes on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Miniature-Brushes-Detailing-Painting-Watercolor/dp/B01M7UFLP5/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=18KR6TIBSRBKI&keywords=miniature+brushes&qid=1550092873&s=gateway&sprefix=miniature+bru%2Caps%2C127&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

they seem like a nice set! Those vallejo paints will work perfectly, I have a few of them and I really like their product. Citadel paints (in my opinion) are top tier paint quality wise. If you dont want to shell out the "Citadel Tax" for them, vallejo is an awesome product for the price.

Great advice thank you. I got a set of 12 synthetic detail brushes on amazon for a little over $20 that seems like a great jumping-off point: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7UFLP5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Once I am more confident in my brush care I will spring for W/N. I got the pick of masters brush cleaner too, and set up a wet palette in a small Tupperware box the way I saw on the Tabletop Minions channel: https://youtu.be/96mjmqWTPfM

Airbrushing still seems miles away (advanced) and I don’t think I have a workstation set up for it. I’m going to rattle-can prime the dark imperium box next.

What about buying thicker handled brushes? Or putting pencil grippies on them.


Edit: Like these

https://www.miniaturemarket.com/gw-63-29.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=1o4&scid=scplpGW-63-29&sc_intid=GW-63-29&gclid=CjwKCAjw2cTmBRAVEiwA8YMgzQ54Y6PKKdY0oD7lG64JySDVn0SAH-TnWqM-vajLfzHjl91QVNcm1xoClDgQAvD_BwE

This brush ?


These are what i have, besides a couple of citadel brushes that are frayed and ruined (my fault ) https://www.amazon.com/Miniature-Brushes-Detailing-Painting-Watercolor/dp/B01M7UFLP5 some of these brushes seemed fine others split immediately

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7UFLP5/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apap_VXeK8UhVERMpw

This brush set was the single best (and one of the cheapest), investments I made early on in this hobby. There's a great variety of sizes and styles, and it really let's you figure out what you're comfortable with.

I use these and love them, they aren't too expensive either which is great

https://smile.amazon.com/Miniature-Brushes-Detailing-Painting-Watercolor/dp/B01M7UFLP5/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=26021GRETRWYH&keywords=minature+paint+brushes&qid=1567396526&s=gateway&sprefix=minature+%2Caps%2C212&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzNUdBS0k2M0VDQTRPJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMzc2OTg2MkdBUkpSSEo0VUVPVCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDgwMTIxMU5ZM1pDVkpFUlNENyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Ok so TLDR Vallejo better bang for your buck and just as good paint as other competitors. Do they provide any matte or is it all satin for Vallejo? Additionally, is the weathering wash from Vallejo the only time you'd recommend Vallejo wash over something like citadel/army painter?


https://www.amazon.com/Miniature-Brushes-Detailing-Painting-Watercolor/dp/B01M7UFLP5/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1ABEORS65JT83&keywords=winsor+and+newton+brushes&qid=1572855562&s=arts-crafts&sprefix=winsor+and+newton+brus%2Carts-crafts%2C188&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExSElGVUkyTjFKUzFKJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMzMzNzkwMUlBVDVJMVNQMzVPWiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTMzOTYyMkNSSlVKV1NTV1c0OCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=#customerReviews


Would these be worthy of just a beginner set?

Detail Paint Brush Set 12pc Minute Series XII Miniature Brushes for Fine Detailing & Art Painting. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7UFLP5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ylINzbFVDJHES

If these ever come back in stock, they are really nice brushes for the money. Been using them almost exclusively recently. They get more use than my Windsor and Newton brushes.

Hi all. I was thinking about easing my way into painting by way of brush painting details. I'm just looking for recommendation on brushes and set of paints.

In particular, I've read good reviews about the D'Artisan Shoppe's set - is it worth the price?

Everyone touts the W&N line and natural hair brushes but I've been having no problems with my synthetic brushes. You dont need to pay an arm and a leg for brushes if you dont need to, if you are looking for a decent set here is one on amazon for 26 bucks that has a great selection of sizes. Heck a lot of the reviews for this specific set came from warhammer painters. Here is a set with a few more brushes and costs less, reviews seem good too.

You can save up over time for W&N if you want, look up basic brush maintenance and keep your brushes in good shape and you will rarely have issues. In the end the best brushes are the ones that have good quality while being comfortable to use. W&N is just really good quality hair, but I dont find them comfortable to use so it didn't matter.

I paint on my primer due to living in a complex that doesnt allow aerosol paints on site, so I can really help much there, sorry.

Happy painting.

I looking for a light weight headset that is the price range from 20-60 dollars. I also wear glasses so it has to be able to work with that.

​

Right now my current painting equipement:

• Miniature Paint Brushes Detail Set -12pc Minute Series XII Miniature Brushes for Fine Detailing & Rock Painting. Acrylic Watercolor Oil - Art, Scale Models, Paint by Numbers Supplies Kit
  
• Rustark 9Pcs Gundam Model Tools Kit Hobby Building Tools Craft Set for Basic Model Building, Repairing and Fixing
  
• Reaper Miniatures Master Series Paints #09970 Starter Set for Mini Figures
  
• The Army Painter Color Primer, Matt White, 400ml, 13.5oz - Acrylic Spray Undercoat for Miniature Painting
  
• Reaper Miniatures 08906 Learn To Paint Bones Kit
  
• "Green Stuff" Blue/Yellow Epoxy Putty
  
• Tamiya America, Inc Plastic Cement 20ml, TAM87012
  
  ​
  
  Is there anything else I should buy?

Looks like a sticker someone would place at an airport.

https://smile.amazon.com/Fake-Outlet-Stickers-Prank-Electrical/dp/B06XR4SD1V

Like one of these?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j8b7acamOdg

https://smile.amazon.com/Fake-Outlet-Stickers-Prank-Electrical/dp/B06XR4SD1V/

If anyone wants to do a job and run before the client tries to plug something in:

https://www.amazon.com/Fake-Outlet-Stickers-Prank-Electrical/dp/B06XR4SD1V

The first time I saw this was in a prank video 2-3 years ago. It wasn't in Houston though. Oh wow... this is getting serious

These plants - they are clean air plants, and come in 4 inch pots, so they don't take a lot of space. Good for most homes (and, not asking, but they also make self aerating pots that hold more water without water logging roots - that's on my wishlist too - a good add for later when you need to move your plants to a larger pot - plus the extra room for more water means less likely to die from lack of - though I am scatterbrained and still need a reminder on my phone for my plants at home that aren't in my space and easily noticeable- my work plants, though, they thrive!)

Edit: adding more stuff cause I just saw that you ok'd it in the comments, and the one about you and hot sauce (I, too, now am subscribed to r/spicy so thanks to u/lolpengi), and your hobbies in another comment - I have hot sauce and a TON of interesting or gorgeous cross stitch patterns

Bravado Hot Sauces - I have wanted to try the ghost pepper blueberry ever since I saw it on Hot Ones

Cross stitch links:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01LQ88NX0/?coliid=IMMZVTQPNAVR1&colid=3RPZNJ3MGKMVY&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/1576877558/?coliid=I3UA7SIN42VHH2&colid=3RPZNJ3MGKMVY&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07JZ9TS5Q/?coliid=I3OXO5QU33B3WD&colid=3RPZNJ3MGKMVY&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/1632504537/?coliid=I1FX6SRBT2TI91&colid=3RPZNJ3MGKMVY&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00WEM5RDW/?coliid=I8EZR5Q6262UT&colid=3RPZNJ3MGKMVY&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Here is a link to the book that the pattern was in Subversive Cross Stitch, it has a bunch of funny sayings in it. Also, the reason for the odd coloration of floss in the pattern is because the floss I was using was gradient floss.

Subversive cross stitch is on my craft: books list. Reading rainbow!

Started this today and finished it on stream. Picked up the pattern from the Subversive Cross Stitch book I picked up from Amazon.

Well let's see, I need this because sometimes you just need to see the word fuck in cross stitch! And I need it because I could totally give these out for Christmas presents!

Or I need this because my daughter has been reading them and is up to this book and she has pestered me for a week to get it for her!

Or my husband needs this because he is a totally awesome, amazing, Dad and veteran and this would be an amazing way to let the world know!!

https://www.amazon.com/Subversive-Cross-Stitch-Clever-Designs/dp/1576877558

Have you seen this yet? :D

Okay I bought everything needed except woodburner. Do you think this would get the job done? https://www.amazon.com/Walnut-Hollow-Introduction-Intermediate-Woodburners/dp/B000VRTG8Y/ref=lp_262717011_1_3?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1524884937&sr=1-3

Any chance you could show me what your printed out and how you stenciled? Yeah I am copying you completely.

I'm only experienced with a basic kit, which has a few different tips. Basically, I use 3, a fine point, medium point and a thicker point to fill.
Something like this should work for what you described....
Walnut Hollow Creative Woodburner Introduction Value Pen for Beginners and Intermediate Woodburners https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VRTG8Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_tJZkDb8K213ZE

It's basically wood burning. You take a sanded piece of wood and then start drawing (burning) with this tool as if you would with paint. Takes some skill, yes, but the most basic of patterns are very easy to do. Then just apply varnish and let it dry.

Mine has the blades more hidden, youd think it just a trinket: https://www.amazon.com/Clover-3106-Cutter-Pendant-Antique/dp/B000WV1YC0

You could also carry one of these. Allowed on planes as well.

Have you considered getting a yarn cutting pendant? At first glance, it just looks like a piece of jewelry. I know a few brands make them - Red Heart makes one that looks like a heart. Clover makes one that looks like a circle.

I rather like this pendant yarn cutter https://www.amazon.com/Clover-Cutter-Pendant-Antique-Silver/dp/B000WV1YC0

I have the little, foldable scissors that I typically take with me; never had a problem. But this is also an option instead of scissors...

http://www.amazon.com/Clover-Cutter-Pendant-Antique-Silver/dp/B000WV1YC0

Do you know their general type of project, like hats, scarves, sweaters, toys, socks, etc.? That could guide it a little. I love this stitch cutter though, it's nice looking and functional and in your price range:

Clover Yarn Cutter Pendant, Antique Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WV1YC0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_FVHxwb7CYE2VR

Get one of these, You can hang it around your neck and never ever have to realize you don't remember where you put your scissors. They're awesome. You can get them at Michaels, Hobby Lobby, Joans, I believe I've even seen them at walmart.

Hey @gingeelise, @JaeBells1 and @fuckysprinkles, thanks for your help!

I actually ended up buying her a yarn bag, new ergonomical crochet hooks and a yarn cutter.

Unfortunately where we live, we don't have many options regarding a store that sells quality yarn or fabrics. So I thought this was quite a good options!

I also looked into your wiki and found some inspirations on the online stores when I looked into their assortment.

Again, thank you for your help! I really appreciate it :)

The Velcro has a sticky back that will glue to almost any surface. I just prepped the bag and the patches by cleaning them with alcohol. I didn't even have to stitch anything. It glues on very strong. I got it from my local hardware store. I'm sure you can find something similar online Like This

If you want the 'I dont want to see any hanging wires look', you might get good results if you mount the power strip beneath your desk. Since it seems rather large it may be heavy. You can either screw it into your desk or you could try heavy duty Velcro Strips. There are also under desk trays and baskets you can use to just hold everything.

If you dont mind some wires showing, you can try sleeves for the cables and use a cable box for the power strip.

I bought my Velcro on amazon but I went to Home Depot for a D ring and found the same Velcro there as well

For anyone else interested in adding this to their Formula rim:

(*note the screen is simply velcroed to the face of the rim so that it can be easily removed and replaced. You still have full access to the setup button and screen.)

Screen: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LAG12DG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Case: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07916HTWY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Velcro: https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Industrial-Fasteners-Professional/dp/B0010HADEA/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=3SDOM935U6TXI&keywords=velcro+strips+with+adhesive+heavy+duty&qid=1567718060&s=automotive&sprefix=velcro%2Cautomotive%2C194&sr=1-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFINFJRWkE0UjdQUTEmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAwMjYwMzkxRlAyNVBEUDJTWU5YJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA1MjA5NjIxRTZBMko5OEdLUVIwJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

USB to TTL: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014Y1IMNM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Coiled USB: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VUK7IIQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB Extension: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH11PEY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Carbon Fiber Wrap: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0154C6Q74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

SimHub: https://www.simhubdash.com/

Could use some Velcro strips: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010HADEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_i9ECCb6PQFGB3

If the bottom of the box is flush and your on hardwood, this is what we use for a very similar problem.

VELCRO Brand - Industrial Strength - 2" x 4" Strips, 4 Sets - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010HADEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1cPazb0WVBM40

Some neat ideas for artsy people are a Buddha board and an expert coloring book.

As soon as I found out about the Buddha Board I knew I wanted one.

It is a special board that allows you to paint with water. When the water dries, the image vanishes. It is supposed to be a zen thing to show you to paint just for the sake of painting, since the image will disappear. It is also supposed to be a symbol that everything is temporary.

I also use coloring and collect as many coloring books as I can.

This is this first time I have ever tried to enter hyperlinks in a comment and I hope it works. I could have just screwed these hyperlinks up royally, lol.

I'm probably too late, but some ideas!

The mug is a cute idea, I love these "Surprise Mugs"

We don't know which country you or she is from, but it might be nice to get hers something small from her country (or something from your country that's super distinct if she's very excited about living there).

For instance, if she is from Germany, you could get her some Hanuta -- I know when I moved away from home, it was very comforting to get reminders from there.

Or if she's from Belgium, Stroopwafels might be nice to go with tea! Just something small that represents her home.

As for relaxation items (which seems to me to be one of your best options seeing as your ultimate goal is to help her relax, right?), I have a few:

Gong for her desk at work?

A zen "Desktop Garden?"

A Buddha Board for work?

A little desktop fountain?

A diffuser for at home (SUPER relaxing, but you'd also need essential oils)?

Or even a necklace diffuser?

16

You need this [Buddha Board] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010TEFFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_ryIQwb3AYPNY7)

It is a super cool canvas that you paint with water and then it disappears in minutes. Zen painting. :)

The Buddha Board is my new go-to gift. It's cool and suits a wide variety of personalities (mother that needs a Zen moment, CEO that needs a Zen moment, cube worker that needs a cool cube toy, that artsy-fartsy guy that did that thing for me once, the weird chick that no one knows anything about but I drew her name in a Secret Santa).

Medium point / white - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PLKRZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rHpWAb350ZXT3

yeah that's what I was worried about. this is the type of pen in question https://www.amazon.com/Sanford-35558-Sharpie-Oil-Based-1-Count/dp/B001PLKRZQ/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1518016762&sr=8-8&keywords=sharpie+paint+markers

I'm not sure it adds any thickness as a fingernail doesnt even seem to hitch on it :-/

I used a sharpie to clean up my soles, worked pretty well. I also saw these at my local target.


[White oil based sharpie]
(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PLKRZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ug9DzbJ5PG42C)

I used an oil based marker, more specifically this one. I made a previous post showing the before and after here. The good thing about this method is that there's no cracking since it's ink not paint although I'm still waiting to see how long it takes before the ink wears out after wear.

I’ve done exactly this on 3 pairs of boost kicks.

SHARPIE MED WHT OB PAINT MARKER

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PLKRZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1m-5Cb01Z8CAY

4 coats with the Sharpie and then use the razor to scrap away all the places I messed up.

Forgive the dirty wheels.

There is a thread going on Nike Talk right now regarding this. Someone mentioned using one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Oil-Based-Marker-Medium-1-Count/dp/B001PLKRZQ

this one?

I use this type of sharpie to paint my boost back to white on other pairs. They have a black, you could give it ago and see what happens.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001PLKRZQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495367773&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=oil+based+sharpie+white&dpPl=1&dpID=31vPzy9EvrL&ref=plSrch Just look up oil based sharpie white

Everyone else's advice is great, but once you're ready to move in to pens, I suggest a liner pen set like https://www.amazon.com/Staedtler-Pigment-Sketch-Regular-308SB6P/dp/B004L87XRA < this, if you can get it (~$11 USD; online and in art stores. Sakura's Pigma Micron pens are also good but a little less sturdy and pigmented in my experience). They're of different widths so you can explore line width (this piece looks to me like one width though), and they come in a sturdy case. Like all pens, be gentle on the tips, and they'll last a long time.

And besides lessons online, try thinking of your own drawing challenges. Once you learn how to put shapes together and show what you see on paper, it's a lot more fun to draw things you want to draw.

Best of luck and keep posting your progress!

Depends on the size. A size '01' is .25mm which is fine for most of the smaller panel lines. There is a size '005' which is .2mm and if you can find one, it's more versatile than the 01.

My son started panel lining with markers and honestly, my set of Liners work just as well as the different brand name markers he has for much cheaper.

The new hotness though is using Tamiya wash and an extra fine nib in a fountain pen holder. Panel lining with a wash (premade or lacquer-based DIY wash) is a whole new world.

So yeah, you can draw an eye at a time. That's great, because you took the time to notice what those gooey ocular nerves look like. Now you should buy a sketchbook and a few ink pens to aid your creativity. When I talk about effort, I mean time, dedication, focus, attention to detail.

Starting with a brush pen (fibeliner) will cause you all sorts of headaches. Although a novel way to make different lines and weights, I use it for large features or final touches.

I started with these great Steadler pens and this exact Sketchbook. The pens last me a long time, maybe 6 months of drawing almost every day.

I've drawn for a little more than two years, but have gotten exceptionally better because I bought the appropriate supplies.

Does she use just one pen thickness? She might like something like this which has different thicknesses for more detailed drawings.

You said she had graded pencils, maybe she would like graded pens too? (I haven't used these yet, so not sure on the quality)

Has she ever used a brush pen? I found them very interesting and you can create unique drawings with them.

If you prefer to get her some paper, look for something with at least 100gsm (this is the thickness of paper) I find 80gsm too thin for ink drawings.

Maybe also having a look for books on things she might like, like books on historic maps or tattoo designs. Reference books are brilliant for inspiration.

This pretty much. I started doing the lesson using a ballpoint pen and ran into the same problem regarding the indents being left on the paper. When I was doing ghosting lines it really started to become apparent that I should pick up a fineliner. Whenever I would use a ruler to make my first line it would leave an indent in the paper, so whenever I would do superimposing lines I was never sure if I was actually drawing my lines as straight as I was or if my hand was just trailing along the indentation left on the paper.

I'm currently using a Staedtler Pigment Liner that I bought from Amazon for $10.72, I'd recommend it.

Honestly, most of my journals only have 5-10 sentences per page. I do a lot of collage, drawing, and abstract painting.

Here's what I suggest:

Buy some cheap liquid watercolors and some [sponges] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VF2KEAI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). You can do backgrounds on every page before you start. This helped me build the habit of nightly journaling, and removed the fear of "ruining" a page. Any parts that I didn't like I could collage over!

Start using your own photos as much as possible. One of the easiest ways to do an image transfer is to alter an image on the computer, then print it out on an ink jet printer. I use cheap-ass photo paper for this, while the photo is fresh. Spray it with water, then put face-down and rub it into the page. (A rubber brayer is nice, but a used gift card or other hard object would be fine.)

Did you know that you can buy bulk stickers from [Amazon???] (https://www.amazon.com/DreamerGO-Graffiti-Transparent-Motorcycle-Skateboard/dp/B01M9FHC08/ref=pd_sim_21_11?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01M9FHC08&pd_rd_r=YGCTQJHQC1ZBD807ASAQ&pd_rd_w=ESCUg&pd_rd_wg=E85wC&psc=1&refRID=YGCTQJHQC1ZBD807ASAQ)

I also suggest making a to-go bag. If you make your backgrounds at the beginning of the week, or before you start the journal, this makes it extra easy. Mine has:

1. [paint markers] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001VB4T86/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
   
2. a few of [these] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0038FIA42/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and [these] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004L87XRA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
   
3. Ephemera (usually from my obnoxious amount of magazine subscriptions, my own drawings, and things I find)
   
4. Glue sticks. Lots of folks here are interested in archival quality glue, but I just use Elmer's.
   
   I often use my journal to annotate from books (I used to do it INSIDE the books, but I found them difficult to read with any new clarity that way, and I'm trying to move to digital.) Since I mostly read self-help/improvement books, that made some great starting points for prompts.

thanks! i used a set of fineliners on regular paper, staedtler i think, black. let's see, i think it's these;

http://www.amazon.com/Staedtler-Pigment-Sketch-Regular-308SB6P/dp/B004L87XRA/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1374696986&sr=8-14&keywords=staedtler+fineliner

yea me to so far... thinking about getting some
Staedtler 308 SB6P Pigment Liner Fineliner's though as they seem to be smaller (in nib width)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004L87XRA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE

The knife set

The wood

The strop

Okay, thanks. Would this be a good starter set you think? Then if I enjoy it enough and get some more cash pick up some of the north forge ones eventually.

Yeah, it is. I bought it based on a recommendation. Luckily I had cut resistant gloves so I could get a grip on part of the blade and get more accurate cuts. But if you look at my first project, they didn't really require and details. It was just getting the feel of working with the wood.

Here is what I purchased. I prefer the fixed blades as opposed to the ones where you can switch them out. I haven't had a single issue with the knife quality. Both of the gouges work well for me. One is a 70 degree cut and the other is curved.

I airbrush in my apartment which is in NH. I can show you my setup once I get home (at work now). It's made from a plastic storage box, a bathroom fan, a filter and some dryer flex hose XD During the winter I have the hose going out my sliding glass door with a heavy blackout curtain covering the gap in the door

I use this compressor and so far its worked damned well for what I've used it for

You can get a NEO for Iwata airbrush for around 60$ on Amazon as well as a Master compressor for about 70$. That's pretty close to your price range. The NEO is a great starter airbrush and I still use it all the time. The compressor isn't great, but it does the job. I had this same compressor for about a year until something happened to it during a move and it stopped working correctly. It worked great until that point though

Anything with a tank and a moisture trap would work, like this one.

Yo. So Im looking to upgrade my airbrush currently I have a paasche talon but I would like to upgrade to something better. I also want to upgrade my compressor too, I have this one currently Master Airbrush High Performance compressor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005H3CBXO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qkttzb6V143GH. But regarding that I also wanted to know if I should upgrade it or is it worth it to keep it. As far as a budget not looking to spend over 250$ for both. I'm just a little loss and looking for some help.
Tl;dr looking to upgrade airbrush and seeing if its worth to upgrade compressor. Budget 250

I ended up getting a Master Airbrush Compressor as recommended in the subreddit wiki

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Performance-Compressor-Dual-brush/dp/B005H3CBXO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1540918173&sr=8-5&keywords=master+airbrush+compressor

​

It's relatively easy to use, and not too loud!

I use this:

http://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Performance-Compressor-Dual-brush/dp/B005H3CBXO/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1449424905&sr=8-11&keywords=tcp+airbrush+compressor

Although, if I had a chance to buy a new one, I would buy the same one with the included air tank so the compressor is nice and silent.

http://www.amazon.com/AIRBRUSH-COMPRESSOR--Airbrush-Published-Exclusively/dp/B001738DXU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449424905&sr=8-2&keywords=tcp+airbrush+compressor

Whoops, forgot to put the link, this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005H3CBXO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_r2zhzb191QARC

I wanna get into airbrushing as handpainting is too exhausting and many of the coolest looking kits i've seen have custom paint jobs. The world of airbrushes and compressors seems overwhelming, though. Can anyone recommend:

• a brush and compressor
  
• A starting set of paints -- I think my preference would be acrylic, as I already have a few Tamiya acrylics and thinner
  
• Share some links about use and maintenance?
  
  I'm planning on getting the Badger 105 patriot and this Master airbrush compressor
  
  Is Amazon usually the best way to go?

Ya, after doing some more research myself, I found this air tank by Masters for ~$70 on Amazon. Paired with the Neo for Iwata I think I should be able to afford a setup with plenty to spare for paint.

Now I just have to figure out a vent system for Minnesota Winters :/ I guess I have a few months still?!

https://www.amazon.com/Sunstar-Kadomaru-Corner-Cutter-S4765036/dp/B0076FJ7SS

Great for any thin player boards and player aids. Keeps the corners from gettings dinged up.

I work in architecture and have a pretty deep understanding of reprographics and what any decent print shop is capable of. I'm personally very excited to make what should be, in most cases, much nicer cards than what PP used in the past. I just checked the errata card PDF they released and you can get a 600dpi image for each card, have it printed on a nice linen or even plastic cardstock and use a corner punch so they have nice rounded corners and fit perfectly into some of the better sleeves available specifically for MTG/popular card game sizes.

I know the DIY/crafty aspect to miniature gaming hasn't historically extended much beyond painting/sculpting/terrain modeling, but why not give a nice set of cards the same treatment we give our beloved minis?

I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/Sunstar-Kadomaru-Corner-Cutter-S4765036/dp/B0076FJ7SS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1537575611&sr=8-4&keywords=corner+rounder

​

It's nice, relatively inexpensive, and has three choices of round.

So, I make my own cards for things every once in a while, and I have this corner rounder. You could trim the sides, then re-cut the corners, and you'd never be able to tell the difference. :)

If you want an inexpensive laminator, I bought this one from amazon (http://amzn.to/2kxWSdz). It was around $22. It does one page at a time and seems to do a fine job. I only have experience with this one laminator, but for taking paper things and covering them with plastic it seems to work pretty well. It only comes with 5 pages of lamination material, so you will need to pick up a pack of the lamination pages. A pack of 100 of the "laminating pouches" cost around $12 on amazon. "Pouches" is kind of a misnomer. They open kind of like a clamshell (connected on one edge, the other three sides open). You slide whatever you want to laminate inside, then slide it through the machine. It was a little difficult getting the hang of laminating a bunch of small pieces on one sheet. The trick I used was to put a book in front of the laminator that was even with the level of the input slot, that way you could just gently slide the page forward without moving the little pieces around inside. My first few attempts were done just holding it by hand and feeding it in and I ended up having pieces move and overlap and get laminated overlapping each other.

I would also recommend a corner cutter (like this: http://amzn.to/2k64w1u). When I was cutting out laminated cards/pieces, I ended up with pointy corners. It wasn't a big deal, but being able to round out the corners makes things just feel better to handle.

The whole setup cost about $45 from amazon for laminator, 100 pages (of which I still have plenty left) and the corner cutter.

After buying a laminator, I ended up discovering all kinds of things that I didn't realize needed lamination. :)

A few days late here, so for all I know you've already purchased, but I have one called the "Sunstar Kadomaru Pro, Corner Cutter (#S4765036)" and I really love it. It does three different corner sizes, so you can experiment with an index card or something and see which angle works best. I got it from Amazon here:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0076FJ7SS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've trimmed the borders off a number of decks, and this guy always makes my corners look great. (I wish the same could be said for my edges -- I'm still working on doing those cuts as evenly as I'd like...but hey, at least my corners always look good...)

Here's all the files you'll need.

For the paper, I just use standard 8.5x14" Legal paper. My printer has a duplexer, but it won't duplex legal, so I had to do a manual duplex (flipping the paper over by hand and printing everything again). The cover is 65lb Bristol Board and was manually duplexed as well.

My books have 10 pages in them, which is made by two sides of 5 sheets of paper. The pages print 2-up per page and they are cut down the middle long-ways, that way when you fold them in half, the score sheet appears on the front page and the notes page ends up on the back of the score sheet. 5 sheets of paper make two books. I have a paper cutter that can cut the full length of the legal sheet, but if you don't, you can simply use a straight edge and a razor blade, or if you have a regular paper cutter, you can just fold the pages in half on the short edge, then cut them in half on the long edge.

Once everything is stapled, I round the corners using a corner cutter. Here's a cheaper corner cutter, but it can't handle the whole book at once. I have both of those corner cutters, and the cheaper one comes in very handy for other projects I do.

In that link is both Trap and Skeet books. I have a doubles sheet, but I need to finish the cover. Once I get done with it, it'll be in that link as well.

I use a similar method.

I layout my cards in Gimp and print them on Polaroid photo paper that I get at the Dollar Tree. 8 sheets for a buck = 72 cards.

I cut them on with a Fiskar rotary cutter and usually sleeve them with a cut down 3x5 card as backing for a little extra stiffness in UltraPro sleeves. But, if it's something that I want to keep...

I use a Swingline laminator with Apache pouches and corner punch them with the Kadomaru Pro.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010PK3G96/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FORXKOC/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0076FJ7SS/

The rotary cutter was a little under twenty bucks at Walmart. It was cheaper than Amazon when I bought it.

[saved you $35](1 X Most Wanted Wargamer Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007H4YR8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lgM3xb7D09CW1).

I'd start with Army Painter brushes. Cheap but decent quality.

https://www.amazon.com/Miniatures-Paint-Brush-Miniature-Brushes/dp/B007H4YR8S/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1550227646&sr=8-9&keywords=army+painter+brush+set

You're almost certainly going to ruin your first brushes, god knows I did, so don't buy anything too expensive. I'd recommend this set as a good starting point;

https://www.amazon.com/Miniatures-Paint-Brush-Miniature-Brushes/dp/B007H4YR8S/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=3MTI00RQ46DDG&keywords=army+painter+brush+set&qid=1550772527&s=gateway&sprefix=army+painter&sr=8-4

Also make sure to grab some brush soap to clean your brushes out;

https://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-105-BP-Masters-Preserver/dp/B0027AEANE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?crid=1FDUSPRMEW4OW&keywords=masters+brush+soap&qid=1550772664&s=gateway&sprefix=masters+brush+&sr=8-1

Here's a vid on how to take care of your brushes and use the soap;

https://youtu.be/GeDwTY7C9xs

You should absolutely make a wet palette too, here's another vid;

https://youtu.be/96mjmqWTPfM

As far as paints go, vallejo and citadel are probably your best option, both are very good brands of paint, some people tend to avoid citadel because they tend to cost a little more and if the jars aren't closed tightly they can dry out easily, so It's best to get what you can get both cheaper and the easier.

https://www.amazon.com/Miniatures-Paint-Brush-Miniature-Brushes/dp/B007H4YR8S/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1538011654&sr=8-10&keywords=miniature+paint+brushes

​

These will get you started for sure! 13 bucks (13.19 to be exact) and you'll continue to use these even after your brush collection grows.

I've heard acrylics or paint specifically made for painting miniatures is the way to go. I'm currently working on a Rockstar Pikachu and bought

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0099Q1GR2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007H4YR8S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For the black on him I actually used India Ink due to the fact it's archival and will last forever. I'm still waiting on the paint set to arrive so I can't comment on how good they are.

If you want to give your custom any sort of topcoat I highly recommend

http://smile.amazon.com/TOPCOAT-Gundam-Hobby-Semi-Gloss-88ml/dp/B0000WS122/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422304418&sr=8-1&keywords=topcoat+gundam&pebp=1422304401545&peasin=B0000WS122

There's a few different ones, gloss, semi gloss, matte. I personally go for matte as it gives models a nice touch of class. You don't have to use a topcoat, but it can add a little to the appearance of your custom. I use this topcoat all the time for Gundam models, just be careful of humid days if you use it.

Honestly, those brushes should do just fine but I can’t guarantee it because I have never used them, imo 12 brushes seems a bit excessive but you do you. I bought the Army Painters Wargamers most wanted brush set https://www.amazon.com/Miniatures-Paint-Brush-Miniature-Brushes/dp/B007H4YR8S . Honestly these have been the best for me, the insane detail brush is one of my all time favorites for detail and the regiment is great for any kind of base coating or medium-large size miniatures. The small drybrush is great for highlighting and (obviously) dry brushing if you’re into that (you should be).

No problem. Are they a good price? They aren't anything super special just good quality brushes for a decent price. That being said, this one is literally the 3 I would suggest, if not maybe the psycho for details. And that's a really good price since they'd be at least $12 separate at my local shop.

I'm a big fan of Army Painter products. I've had pretty good luck with them so I'm kind of slanted towards them. So I recommend...

1- a set of these brushes.

2- Any of the Army Painter primers are good. But this is my favorite. Coats and covers well. Also works for a lot of different models.

3- A set of these have come in handy for me several times.

4- These clear bases are my favorite. I've rebased several figures with these. Love them for there ability to show the terrain the figure is standing on.

5- And a cheap basecoat sized brush for mixing paints and brushing on quickshades.

This is obviously just my opinion. But I hope it helps.

I use 4 brushes for almost everything.

Most of mine are wargaming brushes, but with right care they last you a long time.

This kit right here is what I use and it can do basically everything I need.

I also have one LARGE cheap brush that is a piece of crap and use it to do all my dirty work with dioramas and the like. It's my real workhorse.

As a starting point you should probably look into natural Sable Brushes, size 2 for basecoating and 0 or 0/2 for finer detailing. Make sure it has a good point. I am currently using these, the regiment brush is quite good.

Some mini painters will quickly mention Newton and Winsor 7 series brushes or Raphael Kolinsky sable brushes, which are more expensive, but I cannot confirm that, I have not tried Kolinsky sable brushes. Be sure to buy a nice brush cleaner to preserve your natural hair brushes.

Here is a nice unbiased information (mini painters tend to be fanboys on certain brands of paints and brushes) about brushes or this one by one of the best mini painters around, one of the comments mentions Toray brushes which are often used by minipainters

EDIT: Added the APJ link

Like, it seems, everyone else, that was my starter too. It's supremely useful for basic paints that you'll use on everything, blacks, greys, whites, and browns, but it had little else for specific details. (Which was probably the point). Mine came with a yellow, blue, and green that I don't like and have already replaced (except the yellow because I just don't use the color enough to need to). No red.

I'm personally not a fan of the paints themselves, though. They work for the fact that you don't have the money to buy all those browns and blacks individually, but they're too runny for my tastes, separate really easy and are hard to get back, and I just don't like dropper bottles. I feel like a lot of paint is wasted for the fact that I can't just drip my brush in when I just need it for one or two little details.

That said, I'm still using most of them. I bought my own paints for skin tones and bright colors. I use the GW Citadel paints, I know some people think they're too expensive, but they're over all better quality than most other paints I've tried.

When you first go to get extra paints, try something in a tub instead of with a dropper, see which one you like best. It took me a little getting used to the tubs, but I hate the droppers now.

As is said, you'll want better brushes. What I used for a long while is This They're not exactly great quality but they're better than most basic cheap sets you'll get at a craft store. The exceptional low price comes with a month long shipping time, though. Right now I'm trying out Army Painter brushes I got that set and the Character and Pshyco brushes. I only just bought them so I can't say anything myself, but I've heard good things.

One thing the kit doesn't even mention, if I remember right, is sealer. When I first started I tried to get a basic art acrylic sealer from a craft store, but it stayed forever sticky and destroyed the first few minis I painted, which was a huge disappointment. Your local game store should be able to show you what they use. I use the Citadel Purity Seal simply because it's all that local store had, I couldn't compare it to other spray sealers. It has a mate finish, and you have to be really careful to not over-coat or you'll loose detail.

I also have a little tub of Citadel 'ardcoat which is a high gloss sealer. I use it on top of the spray for a couple details, like anything wet or metal highlights, but in my experience anything glossy has been tacky, so use sparingly if you use at all.

I bought sheets of Kaizan foam to line my cases. I found a specialty woodshop that sells it near me. You can also buy cases that have pluck foam inside. Pelican brand cases are the most popular but are expensive.

It’s this stuff: Fastcap Kaizen Foam 57mm (2-1/4") Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007J2JJYK?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I cut slots for them.

Saw this awhile back. Add some foam to it and you should be good to go :) a good budget option if you ask me.

If you're looking for something more customized, there's these custom sleeves that are affordable. There's also Modern Coup if you have the money and want something classier.

I didn't go overly compact, but I did buy a cheap hard shell carry on bag from amazon and some Kaizen foam. Tore out the innards of the carry on bag and cut out slots for headset, touch controllers cameras and even a slot for my 1080 for the times that I don't need to bring a computer, but the computer at the destination needs a better card.

It accompanied me on 6 flights so far.
Here's a link to an image of it before being completed. It lacks the Video card slot. I also added some command wire hooks on the top and bottom inside of the camera half and ran two bungie cords between them to hold the cameras down.

*Open cell foam is generally bad for long term storage

You would be fine if you used closed cell polyethylene foam, which you can pick up at places like McMaster Carr or Amazon.

you can find a big airsoft backpack and put a foam like this , cut it and you are surely safer than the strapped backpaks IMHO

I do a very similar set up for backpacking. Peakclip with body on front or on the top of my bag in a foam insert (when I know the conditions are just going to suck, like when I'm snow camping) I built using this (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007J2JJYK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and extra lenses get wrapped in a fleece or with my quilt.

​

For biking, can you strap it to your bike? Then I could see using a pelican case or something similar.

Not sketching necessarily but for Christmas I got an [aquapen] (https://www.amazon.com/Pentel-Aquash-Water-Assorted-FRHBFMBP3/dp/B00AX31TZO) and a [teeny tiny watercolor pad] (https://www.amazon.com/Prima-Marketing-Watercolor-Paper-Pad/dp/B014LUMBHO/ref=sr_1_3?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1483925911&sr=1-3&keywords=watercolor+paper). I carry both in a little pouch with my teeny [tiny watercolor set] (https://www.amazon.com/Prima-Marketing-Watercolor-Confections-Decadent/dp/B0197F6XX6/ref=sr_1_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1483925960&sr=1-1&keywords=decadent+pies+watercolor)... If I'm sitting and having coffee with someone for an extended period (like just a Sunday morning hang) I pull out the pouch. All I need is a napkin (i.e. no cup, no brush) and it's really unobtrusive. It keeps me from looking at my phone while I talk to people and relaxes me (and sometimes other people as well.)

the duck is alive

I LOVE this stuff. It's like powdered Christmas. Big Train Spiced Chai

And now I can't stop thinking about how nice it'd be to be sipping on that while playing with these... Pentel Arts Aquash Water Brushes 😀

Those were Aquash waterbrushes by the brand Pentel :)

It works like normal brushes you use for watercolor but with little barrel inside to store water.

I came across these Jane Davenport Mermaid Markers at Michael's when I went to pick up some Tombow brush pens. I went back and forth on buying them but in the end I caved. They're like any old refillable water brush, and it's way cheaper than buying 12 water brushes and filling them with fountain pen inks (I have one water brush dedicate to FP ink). They're a dye-based water soluable ink and the tips are bristles instead of a flexible marker tip. A little ink goes a long way so I can see these lasting for a long time before I need to refill them!

 

Also I love seeing /u/colette0101's posts and I need more art-doing in my life!

I actually just got a few and I'm making a watercolor journal for my DnD character :D It's not as clean and pretty as yours though lol.

You ever think about using water brushes? https://www.amazon.com/Pentel-Aquash-Water-Assorted-FRHBFMBP3/dp/B00AX31TZO

For someone just starting out, quality paper is the most important thing followed by paint and brushes. I recommend shopping online as you'll pay 2-3x more locally (unless you have a Blick store nearby, they usually match their online prices) and you can set your girlfriend up nicely without breaking the bank. I'm not sure what you're looking to spend so I'll try to give you a decent range of options.

Paint

Cotman and Van Gogh are the student versions of professional brands (Winsor Newton & Rembrandt) and the most often suggested for beginners. They come in pans (dried paint blocks you swipe with a wet brush to reactivate) and tubes. Though these are student grade they're both used professionally and very high quality. They're lightfast (won't fade with exposure to sun), use the same pigments that the professional brands do (though with a smaller amount) and are both very reasonably priced. And if she enjoys painting and looks to upgrade in the future, she could pick up the Professional version with minimal relearning how the paint performs (All brands behave a little differently on paper).

Of the two I would suggest Van Gogh as they're extremely vibrant, the pans are very easy to rewet (Cotman pans are difficult to get pigment from in my experience, and for someone learning to paint having to scrub a pan with a brush will be frustrating. The tubes better.) and come in nice compact travel sets that have a built in palette for mixing. The Set of 12 Pans is plenty to start with, you can mix a wide variety of colors from that. The 18 pan + 2 tube set is a great option as well as it gives you a nice variety of warm and cool primaries as well as convenient greens and earth colors, it comes with a small brush and sponge, I'd go with that one. The larger sets of 30-48 aren't necessary as they're mostly colors that are mixed from the single pigment paints included in the smaller sets, but if you think she'd enjoy having a ton of colors available without having to mix those are something you can look at too.

If you wanna ball out a little bit and get her some professional paints, Da Vinci has a ton of pan and tube set options. The 12 Full Pan Set again has everything she'd need getting started. They're as good as any brand out there. The pans are also twice the size of the student brand options and will last a very long time.

There's a ton of great paints out there, I suggest these because they're great value as well as quality and don't include a lot of the weird and rarely used colors you find in a lot of sets. I'd go with pans because they're ready to go as soon as you open them, you don't have to wait for the tube paint to dry for a day or two before you can store it or take it with you, they're very attractive gifts that are nice to look at (if you look on youtube you'll see 100s of videos of people just opening them and showing them off) and you can refill them with your own tube paints later on once you know what you like and start building your own palette. This time of the year there's tons of deals out there so if you find a nice set of Winsor Newton or something on amazon that's a great snag as well. Just avoid "store" brands like Artist's Loft or Masters Touch, or the tons of really cheap chinese sets you'll find online.

Paper

100% Cotton is the way to go. It can handle any technique and can take a ton of water without buckling or falling apart. Even the nicest paint will appear dull on poor watercolor paper and they can't handle much water before they start to give out. It can be a little pricey but it's well worth it. Again there's tons of brands but Arches is the most used and it's excellent so I don't wanna bog you don't with a bunch of brands. You could also grab a 22x30 inch sheet of Arches and tear it into a variety of smaller sheets (this is the most common and frugal way). Cold press is medium textured, Hot Press is smooth and Rough is obvious. Cold press is the most versatile so I'd start there. I don't use sketchbooks but if you're looking for something like that I've heard these are good.

Brushes

Brushes are personal preference, some people only use one for everything and some people like a variety of size and hair types. If you wanna keep it simple a 10 or 12 Round is a good workhorse that can handle small detail and a larger wash. There's sets if you wanna get her a few to see what she likes. Synthetic or a blend is where I'd start as real sable or squirrel is pretty expensive. There's water brushes that aren't "traditional" but are popular for sketching or coloring ink art and are easy to use.

Hope this helps!

I mean, can't they change their company name? I guess its probably not cheap, but then this is a problem literally because they have been too successful in their marketing

edit: Maybe I'm wrong, not an expert, but it seems to me they are in this predicament because they advertised their products as Velcro, not Velcro hook and loop.

https://smile.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Industrial-Strength-Strips/dp/B0010HADEA/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1506366556&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=velcro&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Sticky-Strips-Black/dp/B000TGSPV6/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1506366556&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=velcro&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Sticky-Back-Black/dp/B00006IC2L/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1506366556&sr=8-6&keywords=velcro

https://smile.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Industrial-Strength-Black/dp/B00006RSP1/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1506366556&sr=8-7&keywords=velcro

https://smile.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Thin-Fasteners-Tape/dp/B0013AIAQ2/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1506366556&sr=8-10&keywords=velcro

None of them list hook and loop anywhere, though to their credit they do list Velcro BRAND very clearly. And one of them does mention the product type as fastener. They should start advertising and packaging them as Velco brand hook and loop fasteners. That way if someone challenges their trademark in court, they can point out that every single one of their product's promotional material clearly separates the product from the company - right now, that's not clear in their own marketing (outside this video of course).

I just use a white oil-based sharpie pen whenever my boost gets a little too gross-looking.

https://www.amazon.com/Sanford-35558-Sharpie-Oil-Based-1-Count/dp/B001PLKRZQ/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1549955805&sr=8-13&keywords=oil+based+sharpie

I would recommend a battalion as well as an army book.

As for painting, I found it immensely helpful to paint the figures before I clipped them out of their brackets. The only thing would would need to pay attention to there is that you will need to add a small dab of paint to the spot that was attached to the bracket and you will need to know what pieces you are going to use and which you are not going to use. This was useful for me because you have something to hold on to as you paint (especially when detailing). It also allows you to paint areas that would be immensely hard to paint with any degree of detail or accuracy if the piece was already assembled.

Cheap brushes sets with which to paint:
Set 1,
Set 2, Set 3

Cheap Detail Brush: Brush

Professional illustrator here, carry a sketchbook with you, don't sweat materials really but try a softer pencil (You will need to go to at least a Micheal's/HobbyLobby to get these.), I've always enjoyed employing a cheap watercolor set as well just rubberband that shit to your sketchbook, whenever you feel bored bust it out on the train in a waiting room etc, draw what's in front of you fast and poorly just do it, keep quick notes of things you see that you'd like to practise drawing when you have time and actually refer to it use you phone, in that same vein keep an inspiration board pinterest is cheesy but perfect for it really.

TL;DR - Practise practise practise. No shortcuts, sorry. Do it!

ETA - If the watercolor thing strikes your fancy get one of these. They're the tits for on the go.

https://www.amazon.com/Fake-Outlet-Stickers-Prank-Electrical/dp/B06XR4SD1V

"Natural Talent" is a lie. It doesn't exist. Anyone anywhere who is any good at anything, is so because they worked hard and practiced for a long time.

The kid's 9 years old, anything that he tries to do, he is going to get frustrated. All you can do for now is encourage him, and help him learn to derive fun from the process of art-making, rather than worrying about the result. Getting hung up on particular techniques and styles at this early on is, I think, counter-productive. All it will do is serve to highlight the disparity with his current skill level and that of others around him, which is discouraging. Get involved with him in the process, draw with him. Are you no good at drawing? Great! Have fun drawing with him, and show him that making a perfect drawing isn't the most important thing. And maybe you can begin learning and developing as artists together.

One thing that can help make the process more exciting is new tools. Is he drawing mostly with crayons and markers? Get him some (cheap, nontoxic, water-soluble) paints or pastels. Make collages out of ripping construction paper. get him a Buddha Board, or just some sidewalk chalk. Experimenting with different mediums will help get him engaged in the process of making art, and not worry about the final product.

Number 1: What is a "Crafle"?
Number 2: Make sure it is a real Crafle. There are a lot of fake Crafle's running around. It is one of the more commonly made fakes and there are numberous versions. Take the Crafle out of the sleeve and ensure that it feels like a normal card (compare it to another rare from the same set, preferably a known real Crafle, or another land). Also, use the light test, it is the easiest one to do. A jeweler's loupe or a small microscope would be good too.
Number 3: Seriously? I would trade in some goyfs for a Crafle any day of the week. Crafles are on the reserved list and will likely only go up. Goyf is practically on the "print 'til you can't cash in anymore" list.

No pics, sorry. No excuse, just lazy. >_> It would be a pain to get any of those games out at the moment.

This is the corner cutter I use. I used to use a hand-held one I got at Michael's, but it was a pain to clean out and uncomfortable to use for very long.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VRTG8Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_m.RzCbEG2RY9F