(Part 2) Best cutting tools according to redditors
We found 368 Reddit comments discussing the best cutting tools. We ranked the 178 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
Deburring tool. Similar to this one
This one is from Titan. It works great now, not sure how long it will stay sharp
https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Tools-51950-Deburring-External/dp/B07V9PGRSB
>Now, I'd like to have my 80 completed professionally (and LEGALLY) with FFL registration as necessary. Is there a place that does this, or should I just sell the 80 lower and buy a finished one?
If you have someone else do it for you, you will find yourself in legal issues with your nonexistent new gun. (wait, what?) Yeah, you have to build it yourself. Don't worry, it's not that hard. Actually it is rather easy. My first one came out flawless, and I have made quite a few since.
Polymer lowers always suck, though. Don't get a polymer lower.
Instead, go and purchase this receiver and this jig.
Borrow a drill press.Buy your dog a bulletproof vest and refer to the comments below for drill press stuff. Cram this and this into it. Cut as appropriate. It's not hard as long as you aren't a complete moron. You managed to make this post, so you aren't a complete moron.Your cut depth will ultimately end up being really close to 1.25". Don't go that far on the first cut - instead stop around 1.2" and then clean things up real nice.
You will need a couple small drill bits as well for the FCG. Doesn't really matter which ones you get, but I like split-point cobalt ones.
When you are done, you can avoid the hassle of anodizing by using engine paint instead.
Then post pictures on /r/guns so that they can bitch about non-problems.
EDIT: Your drill press should be configured to spin at around 1700rpm.
EDIT EDIT: Apparently the ATF is stricter than they used to be. Watch out for legalese.
I would recommend a nice fairly cheap deburring tool.
This one can be used straight or with the blade at a 90 to the handle for deburring inside holes. I use mine weekly. Uses "b" blades, not sure how common those are vs "e" blades
Your body and brain are going through heaps of changes - take all the help you can get and more - make it as easy on yourself as possible. Especially if you feel that familiar slump. See your doctor. Ask for counselling. Just know that how you feel right now isn't forever.
Can wholeheartedly recommend SAD lamps too ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07XGQLFD7/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_rsmWDb9GKP4VH ).
They're small, about the size of a Kindle and as sceptical as I was, they definitely work some kind of magic on me. Helped me get out of bed for a start.
>carbide end mill
That worked for you? I will just order both as I will be testing all sorts of things. Any recommendations? Looking at this one :
https://www.amazon.com/Kodiak-Cutting-Tools-KCT131536-Diameter/dp/B007BTQ8TK/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=kodiak+carbide+end+mill+ALTiN&qid=1572283174&s=industrial&sr=1-2
Big shout out to the /u/beasthoss guide in the sidebar. Worked like a charm first time. Induction heating really makes the already awesome dynavap experience even better. All parts used are listed below for anyone interested. I did use some t-taps I had laying around but no solder.
Induction Heating Module
Power Supply
Glass Adapter
Momentary Switch
Project Enclosure
Drill Bit
Edit for parts list.
https://www.amazon.com/Loc-Line-Acetal-Copolymer-Coolant-Assembly/dp/B006VKESA6
Think about getting a line like this, they are very convenient for directing the coolant and very easy to use. Plus with a little ingenuity you can run either high pressure air or flood through the same line.
How’s this stuff?
Forney 20857 Tap Magic Industrial Pro Cutting Fluid, 4 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003X3ZKXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QmAHAb0VADHZ7
Also, do you have a replacement for the chuck on a Dewalt 611? I’d spend a little money to make it easier to use.
I fought with mine for a week with various dremeling and drilling to little effect. Then I bought an end mill from Amazon and it took about sixty seconds to get the weld out.
Best to use a step drill like this: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07DB6CG2Z/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_KEz3DbNXHZKFA
Deburring tools are excellent for removing brims: https://www.amazon.com/FOCCTS-Deburring-Cutters-Anti-Slip-Aluminum/dp/B07DR9P3RJ
Like these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G386Y3B/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i_-ELLDbZSCDGA5
Morse Heavy Duty Large Plastic Wall Chart - Decimal Equivalents, Recommended Drill Sizes for Taps, and Useful Formulas https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J57XZXS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.X7lDbQFQ23DV
might I recommend a deburring tool? https://www.amazon.com/VASTOOLS-Deburring-Chamfer-Removing-Aluminum/dp/B07JGVDRQC/ref=sr_1_22_sspa?crid=29W8WE9T42VFW&keywords=deburring+tool&qid=1564717039&s=gateway&sprefix=debur%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-22-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzMVg2T0NGMDNDMEJVJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDA0MDQ1MkxWS1RKWlhKVDUwWCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTk1OTM4QjFDQzRMUjgwNUYyJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYnRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
edit: oops apologies, I didn't properly read to your question. I don't know about that particular gun, my comment is presuming it's 14mm and is largely irrelevant, but I will leave it.
14x1mm most likely. Not 1.5mm like many tap n dies would indicate.
This is the tap+die I bought, and it's exactly correct for all the 14mm reverse thread stuff I've got.
ctrl+c ctrl+v:
GZTool 14mm x 1.0mm Pitch Metric Left Hand Thread Plug Tap and Die Set M14 x 1.0 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KPC7FWF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QezJDb2G4KH8G
Hey friend. you're on the right track with your idea to drill a hole and plumb it to a larger tank. Be careful when you choose the spot to drill. You don't want to drill in to a very round side, as that will be harder to make watertight. i would recommend trying to find a nice flat spot, just below the max fill of that unit's tank, and then drilling a hole for a bulkhead fitting(so that its watertight) and then just attach a hose to the drain end of the fitting and you can just set the other end of the hose in to a 5 gallon bucket below the unit or something.
a 1/2 bulkhead fitting is less than 5$ on amazon(also might not hurt to look around for a smaller sized one of these, as a 1 1/2" hole may be kind of big for this small tank) i only looked around for a second.
https://www.amazon.com/Lifegard-Aquatics-Standard-Threaded-Bulkhead/dp/B0002Z7U1K/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=bulkhead+drain+with+gasket&qid=1565284477&s=gateway&sr=8-15
If you go with this route, i would get a step bit (drill bit for drilling a precise hole by gradually widening it)
https://www.amazon.com/Knoweasy-Sizes-Titanium-Drill-Drilling/dp/B07NKXLTCB/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=step+bit&qid=1565284634&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyMEU0WExMM0Y1NUNZJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDQzOTM5RjNOQkZRRFgzUVFXJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwODExNDgyUEtUR1lBS1NJNzM4JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
then you would just need a female 1/2 thread to 1/4" barbed fitting and some 1/4 tubing to run to the bucket. I have similar setups to this for top-off tanks in my hydro systems. If you need any help figuring it out and sourcing parts, just shoot me a message!
Best of luck!!
or 100 bucks on amazon.ca https://www.amazon.ca/Greenlee-36414-Multi-8-Inch-Green/dp/B001M0MDIE
I use a step drill bit like this one:
Neiko 10184A Titanium Step Drill Bit Set, High Speed Steel | 1/4" to 3/4" | Total 9 Step Sizes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RP5Z1W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MoS0DbXAXTTZ3
Don't buy replacement stock parts. Take it as an opportunity to buy something better! They are both 2MT size, I really like my PSI Live center and Crown Drive Center. You can certainly find cheaper options, too, but these are reasonably priced for what you get.
Get yourself a hand reamer. It is less than $10 on Amazon. A drill sometimes has too much torque.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002U8BZO/ref=s9_topr_hm_bHLOot_g469_i1
Alright, so let me just put a little list together of what I need so you can confirm that it'd work. :P
Pump: [URL]http://www.amazon.com/EcoPlus-185-Submersible-Pump-158/dp/B0018WVNXC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1462546781&sr=8-5&keywords=aquarium+pump[/URL]
PE tubing: [URL]http://www.amazon.com/Renovations-HRD-Drinking-Culligan-Filter/dp/B00SDKZUV8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462546432&sr=8-1&keywords=pe+tube[/URL]
Loc Line: [URL]http://www.amazon.com/Loc-Line-Coolant-Assembly-Acetal-Copolymer/dp/B006VKESA6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1462547076&sr=8-2&keywords=loc+line[/URL]
Would that set up be able to sufficiently wet the belt to prevent heat build up? If not I may just bite the bullet and get an air compressor and a Kool Mist system. :P
Depending on how big a hole you are making, it might be easier to do it yourself. If you have a decent drill (preferably corded by a nice cordless one will also work), you can get a step drill bit and some cutting oil. You do not need a punch unless you are doing a ton of holes or are doing something very large.
For any potential glory hole enthusiasts out there reading this who want to take it to the next step, that is called a hole saw and can be found at your local hardware store. You can also buy a compact hand drill to attach it to.
Get yourself a Millwaukee Hackzall like this one: https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.m18-hackzallsupsup-cordless-one-handed-reciprocating-saw.1000730420.html with a reamer like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Greenlee-36414-Multi-8-Inch-Green/dp/B001M0MDIE. That little hackzall is one of my favorite tools I own. Runs through drywall like a hot knife through butter
This an ok choice for live center? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KIEPSA/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_v8Hdvb0TJWRQX
Thank you for such a long thoughtful response.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000I6JJHG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484122898&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=3%2F8+endmill&dpPl=1&dpID=21YCmBjY1LL&ref=plSrch#sims-fbt-shipping-details_1484122919890
Scroll down and you will see frequently purchased together. The 1/4 but and drill stops I just finished 2 80% buying all three of them
Definitely, any machine shop will have drills or reamers that can get that to where you want it to be. It probably wont cost more than a couple bucks for them to set up the machines and do the work. If you care more about the end product than the process, that is the route I would go.
Alternatively, you could get a reamer yourself and expand the hole to where you want it. Find the right size of something like http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-H5890-Repairmans-Taper-Reamer/dp/B0002U8BZO and then ream away! What you are looking for is going to be called a repairman's taper reamer.
A third option would be to glue something across the face of that hole, smaller than your end hole, and use the hole saw as usual. Basically plug the hole and redrill.
I used these two when I installed a FDV 510 for a DNA build.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002JT0XW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004YOB1/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Assuming there's enough material on the underside of your bed, drilling and tapping the bed's holes out to M10 would be the easiest.
To do that you need a 9.1mm drill bit (or something close), and an M10 tap drill (https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-8338-10mm-1-0-Metric/dp/B0002JT0XW). If the mounting part is metal, this might not be that easy. If it's wood, it becomes far easier.
You'll need to know whether the thread on the legs is M10x1 (fine thread) or M10x1.25 (course thread). The second number indicates the space between each thread height. Metal on your bed and it's probably M10x1. Wood and it's probably M10X1.25. The tap is different depending on what the thread pitch is.
I guess this will have to do