Best dash cams & navigation electronics according to redditors

Viofo A119 . I follow r/RoadCam and r/DashCam and it seems like that one is always rated as the best bang for the buck. It's the one I currently use, with a gps mount, and it's perfect. Great night and day quality, easily detachable, etc. It's about $100 and has saved me thousands. It also has given me unlimited content to work with for Reddit because as soon as it turns on, the idiots on the road come out to play. I have the V2, but the V3 is out now.

Something I learned on these subs is that many of the dashcams out today use batteries which aren't good to have when the weather changes so much. I live in Seattle (basically 60 degrees most of the year), but this summer it got into the 90's surprisingly and inside the car could get up to 120 degrees (which may cause a battery to explode). Similarly, batteries wouldn't do good in cold conditions either when it drops below freezing which Seattle also can do. When looking for a quality DashCam, always make sure they don't use a battery, but instead use a capacitor for this exact reason. They will last way longer and won't be as susceptible to failure in weather conditions.

Also dashcamtalk.com. Best site for unbiased reviews and finding legit sellers of various Chinese no-name cams.

Edit: since this post is quite visible and lots of people are interested, I'll also plug slickdeals.net. You can set up an alert for dashcams and get a good deal if money is tight. I was able to pick up a couple Aukey DR02s for $50 each on sale. What I like about these cameras is the low profile install and capacitor.

If you ever get in a future accident (hope you don’t) have you figured out how you’re going to show the video? Like would you show cops the video on-scene immediately, potentially giving them hours of other video of your driving, or wait and only use it if you have to?

Edit: The “Amazon’s choice” dash cam I just looked at has an internal mic, too. So if you’re on the freeway singing or spittin’ fire along with your favorite artist (“Move, bitch, get out the way!”) when you get in an accident, they’ll hear that too. It shouldn’t matter, but keep it in mind.

Last time reddit talked about dashcams this one came highly recommended. It's on Amazon and it's Prime. 1440p/30fps or 1080p/60fps.

This is currently on my Christmas List this year,

even better

Same situation, and same reason I have front and rear cameras on my car now. Buddy he was driving my car, very thoughtfully called a cab instead of driving. Was waiting for it to show up in my car since it was driving rain, my keys were in his pocket, but he got charged with a DUI. Lawyer was able to get the whole thing thrown out, but then again, you still are out the time and money for the legal trouble, so they are still getting some money for nothing from you. Amd I had to pay the tow company to get my car out of impound. Once I started doing Uber on the side, I have cameras I got in a kit as a rearview, dash cam, and inside the car dash cam, best investment ever.

So far the only benefit I have gotten is calming down a road rage incident, but it came with a sticker for my rear-view window and both police and civilians definitely act a little more maturely driving around you knowing they are on camera. Which, by the way, is thankfully completely legal in my state. Even the police definitely act a little more mature driving around you knowing they are on camera. Which, by the way, is thankfully completely legal in my state. Even the police can be recorded as long as I'm not filming an
"active investigation". I don't advocate wrongdoing but protect yourself, the car cams are a great investment.

Edit. Everyone is asking for my camera set-up, yes, I know it's a bit sloppy, but I'm not an electrician and I got all the harnesses and attached them to an EXTERNAL BATTERY. Your standard car battery is NOT meant to regularly handle this voltage, especially with the engine off.

Backup Camera: https://www.amazon.com/GerTong-License-Waterproof-Viewing-Reverse/dp/B01I6KCMWO/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_107_lp_t_3/134-6657532-5393001?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KQYPQMZJ7DC13TJNHXPJ&dpID=41jwAg0wsFL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

DashCam and In-Cabin: https://www.amazon.com/N2-Pro-1920x1080P-Dashboard-Detection/dp/B0742J69SQ/ref=pd_sim_107_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0742J69SQ&pd_rd_r=1Z7KSJGQCG2AWK63FP73&pd_rd_w=9OYDD&pd_rd_wg=X0Out&psc=1&refRID=1Z7KSJGQCG2AWK63FP73

Again, consult somebody good with cars (like I did), or a pro. This equipment CAN fry your car. Scoff at the price, but 3 days of Uber paid it all off, and a case of beer got it installed :) Highly recommend the night vision option, the infrared is incredible on this, it even helps pick deer out when the snow was falling. I love the passive monitoring, basically all the features are worth setting up, such a good fallback to have video evidence.

The stickers I got came with the backup camera and are color versions of this: https://www.ebay.com/i/162030654741?chn=ps

They have tape adapters for BLUETOOTH now. My boss has one. My mind is blown.

Actually I have a Bluetooth cassette adapter that's super cool. People get amazed when they see it.

EDIT: link https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I3YLHAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OsvXBb4J008NP

This sort of road rage, even in New Jersey, is very rare. But I picked up one of those Russian anti-scam cams for $45 + a microSD.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FONBG1A/ - Looks like it's up to $65 now.

> some dash cams can record even with the car off

I've got one for like $100 off Amazon that has this security feature. Quite handy for everyone imho.

Edit: link

Or you could buy this...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00I3YLHAC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1427205481&sr=8-1&keywords=bluetooth+cassette+adapter&pi=AC_SX200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=41Kq2VzpWYL&ref=plSrch

Black Box G1W Original Dashboard Dash Cam - Full HD 1080P H.264 2.7" LCD Car DVR Camera Video Recorder with G-Sensor Night Vision Motion Detection WDR 140° Wide Angle 4X Zoom - NT96650 + AR0330 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FONBG1A/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_HREIwb8B7EHAT

You need a dash cam. After 2 hit and runs I got one. The last two people who hit me got to buy my car cool new stuff. The g1w-c is good and is around 55-65 on Amazon. The cheaper ones will be low quality fakes. Transcend 32gb micro sd cards seem to work the best.

I linked what I have below. There are two color choices. The black would be less noticeable.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MIO2KRC
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P8F3LD0

This one was recommended in a reddit thread a few months ago and I've since bought it and love it!

I don't remember the exact post, but it was some dude in /r/videos who had his car t-boned by a bitch in a PT cruiser when she ran a red. I'm on my phone so maybe someone else knows what I'm talking about and can find it for you.

I was driving down a 2 lane street day before yesterday, someone oncoming decided to cross the yellow divider to pass someone and was coming at me head on, I had to slow down. I also had someone tailgating my ass at the same time. Today I get some fucktard who decides the speed limit is to slow, tailgated me, makes a lane next to me where there isn't one, I honk, he flips me off.. I have been thinking about a dash cam, even put one on my wish list on Amazon. I decided it is a necessity.

http://amzn.com/B00FONBG1A

Yes

Order two, one for the front, one for the back. Seriously. I was rear ended near Arlington Cemetery and the guy drove off. Got his plates off of the tape and subsequently made his life hell.

This is the one I use.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FONBG1A?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00

Got a few good footage already. Including this one.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wI3wwKn0LFc

Anyone looking to follow this, choose your Bluetooth adaptor carefully. I've gone through about 4 before I found one that actually had good audio quality. This is the one I settled on and it's been great, supports aptx and sound quality is great: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NLTW60/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_NIpTAbKQEB5GE

I'd highly recommend finding a dash cam with a warranty. The main reason why dashcams die is from extended heat exposure.

I'm onto my 3rd dashcam, this time with a 2 year warranty.

Here you go. Bluetooth to cassette. Took 1 Google search.

ION Audio Cassette Adapter Bluetooth | Bluetooth Music Receiver for Cassette Decks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I3YLHAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_62asybH3M4F21

NAL. First things first. Go somewhere safe and use something that shows your speed verified by GPS. Maybe Waze. Confirm that your speedometer is not under rating your speed. Side note: most speedometers over rate your speed by a few mph just to be safe.Then buy this one or this one if you want the GPS speed on your videos. They are wedge shaped and hidden pretty well. DO NOT announce that you are recording (MO is single party consent) or have a camera.

Now, if you get pulled over, politely state that you don't agree with the charge if it is again bogus, but then accept and sign it. Then when you go to court bring JUST THAT CLIP(no need to give them your last ~4 hours of driving; have heard of cops giving tickets based on that). Have it on a tablet or something else and also on a cheap flash drive that you don't mind giving away in case they need it. Complain that you keep on getting these tickets by the same officer.

Also bonus points, get the a118 (cheaper) and put it on your rear window where it's hidden to show him following you repeatedly and feel free to bring that if he sometimes follows you. Make a point to take a route that people don't usually take every time to make a point that he's specifically targeting you.

https://www.amazon.com/Rexing-Dashboard-Recorder-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B00X528FNE/ref=sr_1_6?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1541949825&sr=1-6&keywords=dash+cam

Rexing V1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X528FNE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sGtDzbK9MTK2Q

Or if you want a cheaper option:
Pruveeo F5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KZWMGFY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZHtDzbCFSER78


And just youtube how to hide the wires

I have a Rexing Dash Cam and I like it a lot. You just run a cable from the cam to an aux port in your car and it does everything else for you. It records on a loop, so if nothing is saved from previous driving time, it goes back and deletes that data so you don't have to worry about your SD card getting filled up. Just turn your car on and you're set.

Plenty of options:

• B1W ($47-55 USD) - Has wifi/cellphone app, Good video, Fair build quality, Lackluster parking mode: Automatic, Not buffered, Requires hardwire kit with low voltage cut off feature to enable parking mode. - No GPS
  
  
• A119 v2 ($79-105 USD) - Excellent video quality, Fair build quality, Lackluster parking mode: Automatic, Not buffered, Requires hardwire kit with low voltage cut off feature to enable parking mode. No wifi/cellphone app. Lacks Cloud feature. - Has GPS
  
  
• A119S v2 ($90-119 USD) - Good video quality, Fair build quality, Lackluster parking mode: Automatic, Not buffered, Requires hardwire kit with low voltage cut off feature to enable parking mode. No wifi/cellphone app. - This dash cam was supposed to surpass the A119 v2 in video quality. It never did. Firmware updates were supposed to make it better video quality. Only surpasses A119 v2 in Extremely dark conditions, lesser video quality in all other conditions. Lacks Cloud feature. - Has GPS
  
  
• A119 Pro ($90-124 USD) - Good video quality, Fair build quality, Lackluster parking mode: Automatic, Not buffered, Requires hardwire kit with low voltage cut off feature to enable parking mode. No wifi/cellphone app. - This dash cam is supposed to surpass the A119 v2 in video quality. Waiting on firmware updates. Same hope as A119S v2. Lacks Cloud feature. - Has GPS
  
  
• Street Guardian SGGCX2 (Includes memory card and CPL filter) ($160-290 USD) - Good video quality, Good build quality, Lackluster parking mode: Automatic, Not buffered, Requires hardwire kit with low voltage cut off feature to enable parking mode. No wifi/cellphone app. - This dash cam is similar to the A119 variants in video quality. Lacks Cloud feature. - Has GPS
  
  
  Versatile: Mobius ($70-100 USD) (Requires separate purchase: Power cable or hardwire kit + Micro SD card + adhesive Mount) + recommended purchase Super capacitor - Good video quality, Fair build quality, Lackluster parking mode: Automatic, Not buffered, Requires hardwire kit with low voltage cut off feature to enable parking mode. No wifi/cellphone app. - This isn't the best dash cam in the world, but it is one of the smaller ones. It was made for the drone world, and repurposed for the dash cam world. Lacks Cloud feature. - No GPS - Lacks G sensor (because it is part of the drone world)
  
  
  Budget Dual Cams:
  
  
• Mini 0906 ($130 USD) - I would avoid this dash cam. ??? I have no idea GPS
  
  
• A129 ($160 USD) - Good video quality, Fair build quality, Lackluster parking mode: Automatic, Not buffered, Requires hardwire kit with low voltage cut off feature to enable parking mode. Has wifi/cellphone app. - This is a 2 Channel (Front/Rear) or (Front/interior) dashcam similar to the A119 variants. It is new, and people like it. Lacks Cloud feature. - Has GPS
  
  
  Last year's Flagship Dual Cams:
  
  
• BlackSys CH-100B 2CH ($200-270 USD) - Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, Good/Fair video quality. Has wifi/cellphone app. Good/Fair video quality is a far step down from Excellent A119 v2 video quality, you should compare sample footage. This dash cam's strong point is it is simply a good dash cam, user friendly wifi/cellphone app. Lacks Cloud feature. Has partitioned normal/Parking recording. - Has GPS
  
  
• BlackVue DR650S 2CH ($298-370 USD) - Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, Good/Fair video quality. Has wifi/cellphone app. People complain about this dash cam's video quality. It is similar to the CH-100B 2CH but for some reason people have higher than average expectations for video quality from this one. First of the Cloud feature dash cams. Lacks partitioned normal/Parking recording. - Has GPS
  
  
• Thinkware F770 2CH ($330-390 USD) - Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, Good video quality. Has wifi/cellphone app. Lacks Cloud feature. Has partitioned normal/Parking recording. This dashcam has improved video quality over the CH-100B 2CH/BlackVue DR650S 2CH, and it shows. - Has GPS
  
  
  This year's Flagship Dual Cams:
  
  
• BlackSys Ch-200 2CH ($300-320 USD) - Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, Good video quality. Has wifi/cellphone app. Lacks Cloud feature. Has partitioned normal/Parking recording. - Similar to the BlackSys CH-100B 2CH, with improved video quality. - Has GPS
  
  
• BlackVue DR750S 2CH ($380-510 USD) - Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, Good video quality. Has wifi/cellphone app. Has Cloud feature. Has partitioned normal/Parking recording. - Improved video quality over the BlackVue DR650S 2CH, added partitioned normal/parking recording. - Has GPS
  
  
• Street Guardian SG9663DC (Includes memory card and CPL filter) ($290-490 USD) - Similar to the A129 2CH dash cam, missing wifi/cellphone app. - Has GPS
  
  
• BlackVue DR900S 2CH (4K) ($480-591 USD) - Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, Excellent video quality. Has wifi/cellphone app. Has Cloud feature. Has partitioned normal/Parking recording. - One of the few dash cams that is similar/surpasses the A119 v2. - Has GPS
  
  
• Thinkware F800 2CH ($380-430 USD) - Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, Good video quality. Has wifi/cellphone app. Has Cloud feature. Has partitioned normal/Parking recording. - The first of the Thinkware Cloud dash cams. - Has GPS
  
  
• Thinkware F800 Pro 2CH ($380-460 USD) - Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, Good video quality. Has wifi/cellphone app. Has Cloud feature. Has partitioned normal/Parking recording. - The 2nd of the Thinkware Cloud dash cams. - Has GPS
  
  ---
  
  Just to complicate things a bit more: BlackVue 1CH dash cams can not be upgraded to 2 CH. They will lack the rear camera port, as the 1CH dash cams are physically different than the 2CH versions.
  
  Thinkware dash cams which have 1CH/2CH versions can be upgraded from 1 CH -> 2CH.
  
  
• Thinkware FA200 IRC 2CH ($240 USD) - Includes Dashcam/IR cam + Micro SD card + Hardwire kit.
  
  
• Thinkware FA200 WiFi ($130-190 USD) - Lacks IR cam, has Micro SD card option, Hardwire kit option.
  
  
• BlackVue DR590W-2CH WiFi ($240-260 USD)
  
  
• BlackVue DR590W-2CH IR WiFi ($280-300 USD)
  
  Look around for the best price. - Standard copy pasta.

Non-mobile link

Rexing V1 Car Dash Cam 2.4" LCD FHD 1080p 170 Degree Wide Angle Dashboard Camera Recorder with Sony Exmor Video Sensor, G-Sensor, WDR, Loop Recording https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X528FNE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OZ39AbBF7VJC5

I use a bluetooth adapter that plugs into my auxiliary port that works great. It was $18 on Amazon.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RH29CJO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm really sorry you had to deal with a hit and run, and follow the asshole to get his plate number.

Please consider installing a dashcam. They've dropped in price substantially, and take no more than an hour to install.

Here's one from Anker that works well.

And they make brand new ones that use Bluetooth : https://www.amazon.com/ION-Audio-Cassette-Adapter-Bluetooth/dp/B00I3YLHAC

I got one of these the other day. I hope I never have to use the video in court, but I got it just in case.
People be cray.

I've got this one - https://www.amazon.com/V1-Dashboard-Recorder-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B00X528FNE - No complaints so far. It's already paid for itself many times over, as the repairs from this one accident are shaping up to be around $5,000 and we'd still be trying to get it out of the insurance company if we didn't have that video proof.

AUKEY Dash Cam, Dashboard Camera... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072FGL63X?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I got it last Wednesday and I love it. Small form factor and great picture

Not sure about the 2010, but my previous car (02 Taurus) had a tape deck. A CD player, or if you were really rich, a 6-CD changer were options. I ended up buying a bluetooth cassette adapter which worked OK.

I just dealt with this issue myself by using a ground loop isolator on the headphone plug part:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2

This actually just arrived about an hour ago and appears to have solved the problem entirely.

My setup now is BoomPro > headphone/mic splitter, headphone plug goes to this isolator which goes to my Monoprice DAC/Amp, mic plug goes to this little USB adapter which made the mic louder and clearer.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NMXY2MO

I was dealing with some noise and volume issues in the mic, and some noise in the headphones, and these two things have fixed both of those and made the mic sound much better. The ground loop isolator cut the headphone volume by about 20% (just guessing, haven't measured anything) but I had plenty of room to turn up my amp to account for that and still am only at like 60% output volume.

I know some people in this sub will call me a shill, but the A119 should be the standard for a good dash cam under $100.

It has everything you need from a dashcam.

• Good Camera quality.
  
  
• Capacitor, so it does well in HOT or COLD climates.
  
  
• Good Alerts of malfunction in camera.
  
  
• Good shape/size for discretion.
  
  
  Honestly, if I were you and I had the $$ I'd get everyone the same package of a A119 and a Transcend High Endurance microSD card.
  
  For more info, you can visit https://www.carcamcentral.com/ (not affiliated) I used that website a lot when doing research for a dashcam. Watched a lot of their videos, and made the decision to buy an A119.
  
  I've purchased those two items I linked 3 separate times for 3 different family members and they've worked flawlessly. I've seen some issues of cameras arriving defective, but they have a good warranty as well so it's not like you'd be completely out on your ass if you got a defective unit.
  
  To add to this: You'll see A LOT of dashcams for $50 or less, and I'd be really hesitant to purchase them with confidence. I've owned a AUSDOM dashcam that failed after 3 months, it would continually reboot or just die and not record. That's when I started looking into the dashcams more seriously and came across the A119.
  
  
  Edit1: Fixed link. Thanks /u/moneytroy

Did you have to show the footage to the police for their report? People need to learn to drive correctly, not politely. That is so dangerous. Whenever someone starts waving me out, I just pretend to look in my backseat for something or try to wave them on. I'm not pulling across 3-4 lanes of traffic because one person stopped to let me out.

Also, what's your dash cam setup? I've got this one.

https://smile.amazon.com/VIOFO-Included-Optional-included-Certified/dp/B01M28B92C

Alternatively, yell the license plate number into your dashcam.

Bluetooth cassettes exist or you can use this iPhone 7 car charger from Scosche that will charge the phone and provide a plug for your cassette adapter.

AUKEY Dash Cam, Dashboard Camera Recorder with Full HD 1080P, 6-Lane 170° Wide Angle Lens, Supercapacitor, G-Sensor and Clear Nighttime Recording https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072FGL63X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Xz1WBbN46HD25

Firstly, if you were in the intersection as her light turned green (and you had to be as you were t-boned) she is 100% to blame. The reason is simple and often forgot: Just because the light turns green does not mean you have the right to hit the gas. You are obligated to ensure that the intersection has been cleared.

Vis a vi, if you are turning left and the light turns red, and you are already in the intersection you are obligated to turn and the other cars are obligated to wait until you clear the intersection.

The real issue here is people don't understand how to drive.

Second thing, get a dashcam. I have this one, https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01M28B92C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1, and cannot say a single bad thing about it.

this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XNSDRW8/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_v.LDDbNBC1TXGI like it well enough. If I bought a new one, I think I would get one that records both a front and rear view.

this cam consistenly drops to $50 on amazon, i've got one in all my cars, it lacks a few features but is absolutely better than nothing. You'll need to find the right sd card (class 10 I beleive) and I think I paid around $20-$30 for a 64GB sd card, but its relatively cheap insurance!

I think they offer a front and rear cam option also...

This is the one i have, it works fine so far. I'd also recommend you avoid Sandisk MicroSDs, they are cheaper but often have problems compared to Lexar or Transcend. Browse around r/dashcam for more info.

Here is mine: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X528FNE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I say 100 bucks will get you well made tech.

The G1W is pretty much the standard consumer dashcam that is not super expensive, fairly reliable, and films in HD.

I have used one for 2 years now and, other then having to reformat the sd card one time, have had no issues. Turns on and off along with the car, can record for over 8 hours with a 32GB SD card (make sure it's class 10). Over all I have been happy with it. Just make sure you aren't getting some weird knockoff.

I got this one on amazon when i got a newer car because I was afraid of being targeted. http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-Original-Dashboard-Dash/dp/B00FONBG1A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418303784&sr=8-1&keywords=gw1+dash+cam

This trusty little bitch, right here

This little guy right here
"Spy Tec A118-C Capacitor Edition"

Depending on where it is, check if KCBS has a traffic camera on that stretch.

Or check if any local businesses have security cameras.

Also: Dash cams are so cheap, if you need it once it will pay off

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-Original-Dashboard-Dash/dp/B00FONBG1A

I use a G1W, which is a pretty cheap Chinese dashcam. It works great, I typically get about 8-9 hours of recording at 1080. The mount is terrible, and the sound is pretty muffled, but it's cheap and works well. I may upgrade in the future.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FONBG1A/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Great $50 investment. Mine has been running 24/7 for over 2 years now with no issues.

Here is actual footage.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ITY-pMw7GGc

It records about 12 hours of footage and then starts recording over whatever was recorded 12 hours previously.

Hey thanks bro - I'll look for ones that have these specs. /u/K2QJXuGmtcNPKsA8 recommended the G1W and it sounds like it hits all your recommendations.

I've used this camera for the past two years or so. I've not had any issues and the quality is fairly good. Plugs straight into the cigarette lighter.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SK8B47W/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also have a buddy who got this camera and he's pretty happy with it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X528FNE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WJUqybR1YZRGS

Pretty reliable and inexpensive.

I got this one for Christmas and it's really nice. Still waiting for something reddit worthy to happen in front of me though. Hopefully not involving me.

https://www.amazon.com/Rexing-Dashboard-Recorder-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B00X528FNE

I bought this one. It has a wide angle lens, G-sensor (saves recording in a crash) and it’s easily mounted on the windshield, also, the shape of the dash cam makes it possible to be discrete.

Edit: It’s expensive but there are other models that are cheaper but may lack some fancy features. The key is to have a dash cam, be it a $300 gizmo or a $20 Walmart special, anything will help in an incident.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X528FNE/

I bought one of these, then returned it because I found out they were Li-ion battery based, rather than using a capacitor. Got a Viofo A119 instead. I’m told that Amazon ripped off the Viofo design with the rexing which apparently is an Amazon in-house brand.

One more huge tip, get an endurance rated SD card. Not any old as card. These card get beat up pretty badly because the cameras continually access the card non-stop.

Get a bluetooth one with a built in mic and boom, wireless music and hands free phone talking. It works great!

https://www.amazon.com/ION-Audio-Cassette-Adapter-Bluetooth/dp/B00I3YLHAC

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HN0HBFG/

I bought that back in April. It was the next model up from the one that my gf at the time had and she recommended it to me. It doesn't have a battery in it and instead uses a capacitor which is a lot better. I've had no problems with it the whole time I've had it.

An investment of around ~100 dollars plus another 40 for a fuse tap kit to use the car's power will potentially save you a plethora amount of headaches dealing with their word vs yours.

Camera is 1080p, very decent video quality

I have this one and it charges extremely slowly. In fact, I use it more as a "the phone at least won't lose power while it's plugged in." It barely keeps up when using the GPS and playing music.

By the way, this one has much better/more reviews. All of these seem to be one amp but it's better than nothing.

That is exactly what I do. However, it's VERY LIKELY you will get an annoying buzzing sound called a ground loop.


I bought a cheap Ground Loop Isolator to solve it.

You're going to be surprised at how simple they are once you do put in some time to research them.

Mine is as simple as sticking it to the top of my windshield and plugging it in to the power. It will probably come with one of those power adapters that plugs into the circular-shaped power port (that cigarette lighter thing), but I got one of these and a long USB power cable instead, since it takes up less space and gives me an extra USB plug so I can charge whatever else.

I'd suggest this one, it's the one I have. The instructions are super easy to follow, and it has everything you need. They also have a comprehensive tutorial on their website if you need it.

You don't need to be techie to install a dashcam. You just need the dashcam and a few minutes. It must have taken me a total of 15 minutes to get my car set up with mine, and that includes the time it took to hide the wire properly.

One more note, if you are going to consider buying one. If your car gets hot while it's parked, consider getting a model that is detachable (like the one I referenced - you stick a small piece of plastic that allows the cam to clip on or off) or one that is mounted to the rear-view mirror. When your car gets hot, it softens the adhesive or suction, and the weight of the dasmcam might pull it away. In my case, the small piece of plastic is so light that it doesn't matter, I simply put it on and take it off when I need to. And if it's clamped to the mirror, the heat is a non-issue.

My last car didn't have Bluetooth which really sucked until I found this little guy. I'm only sharing in case you didn't know about it.

I agree that they should figure out wtf if going on with Bluetooth before removing the headphone jack. I love the option even though I have probably only plugged headphones into my pixel one time since owning it.

If you find the Sharper Image dashcam not up to your standards, you can use the same one I have: Spytec A118-C 1080p

I got this one a couple years ago and have been happy with it. I'm sure there's something better if you want to pay more but this does more than I need, and it has a capacitor instead of a regular battery so it's safe in high or low temperatures. Also very easy to install (I just strung it around through the door and into the glove box, then to a Y-splitter into the cig lighter so that the wires are hidden but I didn't have to actually do any wiring).

The Rexing V1

Tremendous reliability and great customer service.

A new model is out, featuring an in-built GPS and a rear cam, but it doesn't ship to India.

It's an e10, as far as I can tell it's out of production and replaced with e10k which doesn't have that issue.

Here's the amazon review I mentioned.

Mine unhooks from the windshield mount easily and I just put it away when I'm parked outside overnight. I recommend this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XNSDRW8/

• step 1 - go to /r/dashcam
  
  
• step 2 - read their guide
  
  
• stem 3 - buy this one
  
  basically make sure you get something with a capacitor (not a battery) and has decent night vision.
  
  I just got one but that is more for recording on-road shenanigans than safety.

I only have a front cam, but use a Roav by Anker and swear by it.

Got it for about $50, currently for $70, totally worth it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XNSDRW8

Check out the reviews on this, I got the Rexing V1. I absolutely love it.


My only complaint at all is that it occasionally doesn't record any audio, but that's pretty negligible for me really.


I save little random clips of funny shit I see all the time with the press of a single button. Couldn't be easier. And it's stealthy because it mounts right against the windshield. No suction cup mount was a HUGE part of why I chose it. Can't bounce around, way less likely to fall off, etc


EDIT: I sound like a fucking shill, how do I prove that I'm not?

Desk handmade by local cabinetmaker. Monitor section can be flipped and dropped 3"

13" Macbook Pro with Retina

32" 1080p LG LCD (Haven't decided what to replace with yet)

Mackie 402-VLZ3 mixer (being replaced by Denon Pro receiver)

Yamaha MSP5 powered monitors (yeah, yeah, I need to get stands. These are getting replaced by Genelec 8030s)

Wacom Intuos 3 graphics tablet

Late 2009 Mac Mini

FiiO DAC

First gen Xbox 360 to not have RROD

Logitech Bluetooth receiver

Cable raceway

TrendNet broadband router

Managed Switch

Short computer power cable

Short "Mickey Mouse" power cable

Short micro USB cable (for Chromecast)

Buy some of these, you slobs

20W amp

Qi wireless charger, didn't work well with my Nexus 4.

UniFi WAP

Flat-head power strip, behind my bed

Ikea MALM bed and nightstands.

I bought this guy and few weeks ago and I love it!

This is what I use. Very good quality for the price.

Viofo A119 v2 is less than $120 on Amazon. A few members of the Sub have one and I bought it on recommendation.

One of the few that actually does 60 frames per second and also one of the few with a capacitor, not batteries, which is better in hot and cold environments. The one I linked comes with the additional GPS module. There are good user videos on YT as well.

If anyone is wondering which dash cam is good, I got the Rexing V1 and it works perfectly. This is the Amazon Choice for dash cams.

Features/Notes:

• Records in 1080p
  
• 170 degree view
  
• Turns on automatically when I start my car engine
  
• Turns off automatically a few seconds after I turn off my car engine (it has a small battery than can record a video without a power source)
  
• All the wires are hidden (see this video on how to hide them)
  
• I can't see the dash cam when I'm driving because it is hidden behind the right side of my rear view mirror
  
• After the SD card fills up, the dash cam just records over the oldest video
  
  Literally, after setting up the dash cam, I don't need to do anything to get it to run, nothing. I usually don't touch my dash cam for weeks.
  
  Now for the bad parts: the night recording isn't super awesome, but it is definitely enough to see what happened. Older firmware is super buggy, so make sure to get the latest firmware, which is perfect (the customer service is very responsive and awesome). After I updated my firmware, I've never had a problem with the recording or other parts of the camera. I've had it for 6 months.
  
  Get the recommended SD cards, don't use another SanDisk card, not recommended by Rexing (here's why).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

I purchased a dash cam a few months ago and it has given me great peace of mind. I got this dash cam and I have liked it so far. I would suggest probably also getting a rear cam as well, which I have yet to do. Also, just a heads up if you do get a dash cam, some sd cards may need to be formatted before they can be used on the dash cam, but this particular dash cam model (and probably most others) can do the formatting for you in the settings.

I bought a bluetooth adapter that plugs into my car's aux port, and it works excellently. It has a next and previous song button and play/pause button so that I never have to pull my phone up to change anything. I love it and don't see myself ever going back to using an aux cable, Can Be Found Here

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FONBG1A

I'm a trucker and use one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/ION-Audio-Cassette-Adapter-Bluetooth/dp/B00I3YLHAC

You mean like this?

If you can scrape up a few more bucks, I highly recommend the G1W-C. It's the best "bang for your buck" affordable dash cam. Depending on the power source for the cigarette lighter (always on vs. on just when the car is on), it will automatically turn on and start recording when the car turns on. And when the memory card in the camera gets full, it will automatically free up space by deleting the oldest video file.

Make sure you get one with a capacitor. Regular batteries will fail in the excessive heat that builds in the car sitting in the sun (or extreme cold).

Personally I've had this one for 3 years and love it.

A118-C 1080p HD Car Dash Camera Capacitor G-Sensor 1.5" HD Screen 170 Degree Wide Angle Lens Records at 60 FPS Loop Recording https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SK8B47W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AJWNBb2CE86TK

Search Rexing VP1 on amazon.

Edit: here you go.

Rexing V1 Car Dash Cam 2.4" LCD FHD 1080p 170 Degree Wide Angle Dashboard Camera Recorder with Sony Exmor Video Sensor, G-Sensor, WDR, Loop Recording https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X528FNE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_c5fQzbS4NFHKS

Spy Tec A119 https://www.amazon.com/Spy-Tec-A119-1440p-Camera/dp/B01HMZVYLY/ref=sr_1_1?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1487120123&sr=1-1&keywords=Spy+tec+A119

and get a 64GB memory card for less than $20

There's a whole sub dedicated to Dashcams. /r/dashcam

There is a sidebar link that is slightly old, but gives "buy this if you want the cheapest or buy this one for quality"

https://www.amazon.com/SpyTec-A119-1440p-Dash-Camera/dp/B01HMZVYLY/

That one !(or the newer generation of it) is what I use. It's great.

Not op, but I had the BTC450. Really great quality, and adds huge convenience of Bluetooth: it has a microphone built in for phone calls; one touch support for changing songs, answering/hanging up phone calls, etc; it looks nice and has a matte black finish to it; it is super small, doesn't take up any space either.

Here's the Amazon link

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M28B92C?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

Great budget option.

Well...here's all the stuff I bought on my Amazon list lately. Does that help?

AUKEY 1080p Dash Cam
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B072FGL63X/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Black Off Road Scene Easy Fit Mud Guard
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002NIJS0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Car Travel Inflatable Mattress
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N7MZ3YO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Xprite Amber 240 LED Roof Top Mini Flashing Strobe Light
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091XUAY8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Smoke Tint Slim Wind Deflector
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00335FH4S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pet Dog Seat Belt Leash
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0719R1YNZ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

30 Ft. Polyester Tow Strap
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L5RMPT6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hood tie-Down Loops
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CRBXQUK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Seat Cover for Pets
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QHC02EY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Silicone Wedding Ring For Men (For the radio knobs)
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WD31K4P/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Toyota Tacoma Center Console Tray
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KI3WG1O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Toyota Tacoma Center Console Organizer
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B016ZB4VZC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Front Car Seat Covers
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FBLOR88/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Husky Liners Front Floor Liners
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B019YS22MM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Annnnnnnnnnd I'm just now seeing you were talking about the 2nd Gen...

I have a dash cam by AUKEY. My car is always parked outside, ranging from a semi-covered spot at work to open parking lots at Downtown Summerlin or Town Square. It works pretty well, it's not specifically rated for heat but I haven't had any issues with overheating, the pad for sticking it to my windshield has held up, and reviews seem to indicate the same in regards to reliability in heat. Amazon link here. It's pretty inexpensive (only $70) so it's budget conscious, but there are better options that are officially rated for high temperature and higher resolution (the AUKEY shoots in 1080p) if you have the money to spend.

I bought a Rexing camera off of Amazon that has been holding up well. Link here, I have this model with an included back camera that cost me $20 more.

You can go with whatever camera you want based on personal preference and budget, but I would recommend you get one that's a capacitor model, not a battery one. The capacitor ones only last a few seconds while the car is turned off fully but that's fine, you won't have to worry about a battery dying and leaking all over your car.

Mine only covers the front, but it’s this one:
Rexing V1 Car Dash Cam 2.4" LCD FHD 1080p 170 Degree Wide Angle Dashboard Camera Recorder with Sony Exmor Video Sensor, G-Sensor, WDR, Loop Recording https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X528FNE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-tRMAb9ETTJ3N

I originally had one that covered front and back but running it all the way to the back of my car sucked, there was no way to hide the wires. You might be better off just getting one for the front and one for the back.

I have a Vantrue N2 Pro that I think is great. It records in high quality both inside and outside of the vehicle, however, you might not find too many cameras (if any) that will do a full 360. The front facing camera will get all of the front, but the one facing inside will get the entire cabin of the vehicle and maybe through the windows. It has a "parking mode" which will activate when it detects movement while you are away.

Personally, I think a better idea involves parking near where she knows there are working and accessible security cameras. Once the dashcam is spotted, you've spent money for nothing.

If anyone is interested in doing their part, I've been using this one for about six months. Works great, footage is clean and clear, and I never have to mess with it.

Got my first holy shit near-miss with a fuckwit this morning, and of course the armchair driving specialists of /r/houston are tearing it up ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

A Black Box G1W + 32 GB memory card. It's pretty affordable and has ok quality.

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-Original-Dashboard-Dash/dp/B00FONBG1A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412867811&sr=8-1&keywords=G1W

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-Original-Dashboard-Dash/dp/B00FONBG1A

I highly recommend this camera. Sometimes it goes on sale as low as the $30s. Grab a microSD card too and you're set.

Disclaimer it's by no means the best, but it's consistently ranked one of the best value dash cams online. You can spend more and get better night vision or a backward dash though but you're getting into the $130-250 range. Some dashcams will turn on via motion sensor if your car gets bumped while parked.

Logistically if you're wondering, it plugs into USB which I have plugged into the cigarette lighter output via a small adapter. Camera turns on when car starts and off a few mins after you park your car. Footage wise it eventually just loops and tapes over the oldest footage

Any recommendations? I got this Black Box G1W Original Dashboard Dash Cam a while back but it died after a couple of months. Kinda disappointed by this "#1 best seller"

This is the dashcam: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FONBG1A

And I got this SD card per the recommendations I got from the reviews: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004G7D0EG

The camera is pretty awesome. It's motion detecting, so it begins recording automatically once I start driving, but it will turn the display off after a little bit to help prevent distractions. It also comes with a 12V socket adapter, which I use.

https://www.amazon.com/ION-Audio-Cassette-Adapter-Bluetooth/dp/B00I3YLHAC here you go. bluetooth cassette adapter.

It's a G1W-C. Your comment made me go on Amazon and I discovered that the Xiaomi Yi, which is nicer in some respects, is a lightning deal right now. I'm going to put that in the front and put the G1W-C in the rear.

I'm not an expert but Rockford fosgate amps have work well for me. Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_eZIZDbPG15DB6

500watts for about 130 USD

For the first story I recommend a dashboard camera. Might save your ass in court if someone cuts you off and brake checks you like that.

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-Original-Dashboard-Dash/dp/B00FONBG1A

Or http://www.amazon.com/G1W-C-1080P-H-264-Capacitor-Model/dp/B00JJ3SQRI if you live somewhere hot. Same camera but has a capacitor, which is more resistant to heat than batteries, but it doesn't stay on long when the car is off.

The G1W is highly recommended if you just want a basic cheap dashcam that records at 1080p. There are other more expensive cameras with more features but that's up to you. I have the G1W-C, the capacitor one. Works great.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FONBG1A/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

its cheap, and its good. it took 4 weeks to get to me though.

I use this for Bluetooth in my car. Very cheap and works well.

That is a bummer. Hasn't happened to me, but I am too paranoid to rest easy on a street like that. Ever considered a dashcam? I'm pretty happy with mine. It automatically records if the van is bumped.

https://www.amazon.com/Recorder-Wide-Angle-G-Sensor-Recording-Upgraded/dp/B06XNSDRW8/ref=sr_1_21?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1523077531&sr=1-21&keywords=dash+cam

It’s a Roav c1.
Roav by Anker Dash Cam C1, Car Recorder with Sony Sensor, 1080P FHD, 4-Lane Wide-Angle View Lens, Built-in WiFi with APP, G-Sensor, WDR, Loop Recordin https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XNSDRW8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_gyJ5jPsxbe8IR

I've read a lot of great reviews on the A119 from SpyTec.

https://www.amazon.com/SpyTec-A119-Logger-1440p-Camera/dp/B01HN0HBFG

Also more advice over at /r/Dashcam

You can buy them at amazon, eBay, and many other places.

Check out dashcamtalk

https://dashcamtalk.com

The Yi dashcame is cheap and good...
https://smile.amazon.com/YI-Smart-Camera-Night-Vision/dp/B01C89GCHU/

The A119 is a higher rated one and has GPS...
https://smile.amazon.com/SpyTec-Camera-GPS-Logger-Recording/dp/B01HN0HBFG/


Just add a 32gb memory card and you are good to go.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XWN9Q99/ref=twister_B071R715MZ

Pro tip for the "Static Computer Hum"--if you're using an analog mixer or mic plugged into your computer's line in and you hear an annoying buzz or hum on-stream, you probably have a ground loop (your mic and computer sharing the same ground wire). This is easily remedied by buying a "Ground Loop Isolator" off of Amazon for about $10: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAQTRI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FNDuybZZ8NK68

This is called ground loop interference. You can get a cable like this: http://www.amazon.com/PAC-Ground-Isolator-3-5-Applications/dp/B001EAQTRI to remove the noise. Just be aware this may reduce frequencies, like bass, but it will remove the hiss.

you should certainly have an amp/dac to get the best out of those.

you don't even have space for something like the fiio e07k?

i use the modi/magni stack (about $180) for my HD650s

A119 is probably the king on Reddit for quality budget dashcams. It’s a capacitor based cam which is much longer lasting than battery and better for the heat. I am not sure how the app works but the cam interface is easy enough.

That’s the main advantage over the Roav, which is battery powered.

I know this is totally unhelpful after the fact, and honestly probably wouldn’t read a license plate at night, but a $50 dash cam is a great investment. I can vouch for this one:


AUKEY Dash Cam, 1080P Dashboard Camera Recorder, 6-Lane 170 Degree Wide Angle Lens, Supercapacitor, G-Sensor and Clear Nighttime Recording https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072FGL63X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_obnRDb9EGKEVZ

I have a Viofo A119 I’ve had for a few years now that I’ve had good luck with. There are a few different A119 variants but they all seem to do well. Here is a link to something similar to what I have.

There is a newer model that’s even cheaper.

EVERYONE SHOULD HAVE A DASH CAMERA INSTALLED IN THEIR VEHICLE.

There's no excuse anymore. People are freaking CRAZY. And, god forbid, if something like this happens and it's your word vs. theirs, it's nice to have video backing your story up.

They're CHEAP. They last. You can hook them up to either be on all the time or when the vehicle is running.

From Amazon:

1. SpyTec Dash Cam - comes with an internal capacitor, rather than a battery; that way you don't have a battery exploding in the Tulsa heat. $63
   
   
2. Hard wire/fuse kit for dash cam - the cam comes with a cigarette cord and a USB cord, but if you want to hard-wire it into your vehicle (like I did), you'll need this kit. Want it on all the time? Find a constant hot fuse. Just when your're traveling? Find a fuse that turns on when the vehicle is on. $13
   
   
3. 32GB mini SD card - gotta save those road rage videos onto something, don't we? $24
   
   A mere $100 brings a lot of peace of mind. I know it makes me feel a little safer. Plus, I tend to drive safer, because I know it's there, and, if something happens, I don't want to be the one at fault.
   
   EDIT - added hyperlinks to Amazon for the cam, wiring, and SD card. No need to PM me. I don't mind if you do, but...it was like I was hoarding the info to myself...and I thought it seemed kind of weird.

Get yourself one of these car Bluetooth adaptors for $20, zero effort to connect disconnect. Turn car on, automatic connect. Turn car off, automatic disconnect. No mess, no fuss.

I used to be major frustrated with the previous car Bluetooth device I was using that required me to press buttons to connect disconnect, but now I'm super happy with the SB360.

There's dash-cams like this one that you can tuck up right by (or behind) your rear-view mirror, and are pretty inconspicuous.

Mod of /r/dashcam here,

> Should I opt for a capacitor version and hardwire it if I'm planning on leaving it in my car? On that note, do you leave it in your vehicles almost 24/7, or do you remove and reattach it every time you get back in and if you do leave it in your car, have you had any issues doing this (theft, hardware...)?

Always get capacitor over battery unless you're willing to get another cam within the year of ownership, batteries used in dashcams are not the best out there and thus tend to wear out rather quickly, especially on very hot or cold weather, plus if you were thinking of using the dashcam entirely on battery, you'd get 10 minutes tops.

Hardwiring is entirely your choice, I personally don't do it, but it's relatively easy to do.

> Is there an advantage over the "wedge" style ones that are stuck right to the glass vs the ones that hang from a mount like a GPS does?

It's night and day, I had a G1WH and now I have a Street Guardian SG9665GC, which has a wedge design. G1WH you could easily see, but the SG doesn't look like a camera at all, one could even think it looks like a sensor of sorts, and unless you're looking for it, you won't see it.

> Makes and models you've owned with pros and cons maybe?

G1WH and the Street Guardian mentioned before,

G1WH has a battery, so I wouldn't recommend, and the one on it barely lasts 20-30 seconds now from fully charged after 7 months of usage. The shutdown delay is 10 seconds, so you can see where I'm going, there's a high chance I'll get corrupt clips when turning off the engine in a year. The battery used to last about 10 minutes.

It has good daytime video, decent non-saturated audio with high volume, but it does have a bit of background noise from the charger when the car is silent. Night video is ok, not mind-blowing but I think it does its job right.

Street Guardian has better audio and night video, and the daytime video is sharper than the G1WH's, that one has a capacitor so I don't need to worry about that.


> Any advice, input, and answers will be greatly appreciated, also any suggestions of what camera would awesome as well.


What I'd suggest for you, since you're worried about theft, get an A118C. It's pretty much like the G1WH in terms of auido/video quality, but it has the discreetness of the Street Guardian, and since it has the same mount as the SG, it's super easy to remove, you just slide the camera and it comes out. It also has a capacitor instead of a battery, so that won't be an issue.


Edit: Thanks for the gold!! :)

I have this one mounted in the top-middle of my windshield. Kind of above the rear view mirror. It's great, really easy to use.

Rexing V1 2.4" LCD FHD 1080p 170 Wide Angle Dashboard Camera Recorder Car Dash Cam with G-Sensor, WDR, Loop Recording https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X528FNE?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Here it is in action: https://youtu.be/By1dcrmw6e8

Rexing V1

Rexing V1 4K

I'd only recommend the Hint if you've come to rely on BT ear buds. The X is very functional with "whip-right-out-of-your-pocket" functionality thanks to active display turning on and deep listening ready to go.

The car dock I bought is a U-grip for ten bucks. It's not perfect, but it certainly holds my device in place with absolutely no slippage, and the rotation ball on the dock is adjustable which is nice. Easy to remove.

If I can upsell you on car crap, the Kinivo bluetooth car unit in particular supports AptX as do Moto products! No quality compromise versus AUX IN... ditch the wires in your car! I mounted the controller low and can pause and skip in a very comfortable position where the unit is hidden-- honestly, don't know how I went so long with something so dang convenient.

If you are splurging, the turbo charger is cool. For when you've got no plugs, a powerbank is nice. Other than power and cord management, this phone takes away a lot of necessity for accessories.

Looks to be the same one I have set up on my truck

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-Original-Dashboard-Dash/dp/B00FONBG1A

I could be wrong though. Looks like same timestamp and font, etc.

I highly recommend it, has saved my ass multiple times

If anyone is interested, I am using this camera:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FONBG1A/ref=redir_mdp_mobile?ref_=pe_385040_30332190_TE_3p_dp_1

You can get a decent dash cam for about $50, but honestly you're better off spending at least $100. I bought this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FONBG1A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The reviews were somewhat mixed. It seemed like you had a 50/50 chance of receiving a good one or a bad one. Luckily I got a good one, but even so the menu is SUPER difficult to use, the light will randomly turn on at nighttime, out of every 100 times I start my car it won't turn on so I have to unplug it and replug it in. The video and audio it records is great, but I wish I had just spent an additional $20-$50 and had something 3 times as nice.

I don't know much about dashcams, but I just wanted to share my experience with you. Since you're pretty much going to spend at least $50 to get any kind of dashcam it just makes sense to save up a little more and get way more bang for your buck. With that said if you can only afford a cheap one you will still be better off than not having one at all.

For $20 you can get a bluetooth version. I love mine.

If your car has a headphone jack I suggest getting a soundbot it works awesome.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00RH29CJO/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1473275690&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=soundbot&dpPl=1&dpID=51S%2BTgaKrLL&ref=plSrch

You're getting got. Let's do some quick math:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_45521_Alpine-SWR-12D4.html

160

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12018_Alpine-MRP-M500.html

200

http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-KCA-Complete-Gauge-Installation/dp/B0050I6KII

27

160+200+27 dollars is 387. Build your own box. But if not...http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7498_Belva-Sub-Box-1SV12G-Gray.html

44 dollars....for a grand total of 431...give or take.

I'd buy each part online...its much cheaper.

With the dual 2 ohm sub your wiring options are either a 4 ohm or 1 ohm final load. That amp can't handle a 1 ohm load and will only deliver 300w at 4 ohms. Get the dual 4 ohm version of the sub and wire the coils in parallel for a final load of 2 ohms.

Get this amp kit. The Scosche kit would probably work but there's a chance the wire isn't true 8 gauge and if that's true it might not handle the load. Also, the Knu kit is cheaper, better quality, and will carry more current.

He's using this one which is not sold out:

https://www.amazon.com/SpyTec-Camera-GPS-Logger-Recording/dp/B01HN0HBFG

I leave it in and it's hooked up to the 12V socket. Most are designed to be pretty hard to notice, and it's only powered on when the power is turned on.

I have a B40C and an A119C.

They're easy to remove if you choose to take them out of your car when you leave it, usually just snapping onto the mount. Depending on the model, some need to be re-hooked up, but some are wired to a GPS mount and the camera itself can just snap in and out easily.

Get one!

The Yi dash cam is the cheapest I'd go. Any cheaper and the video quality will be too poor to read license plates and the. quality will be poor.

You should also consider a Viofo a119 for a step up.

However, if you need to be absolutley sure your camera will capture license plates (a really important thing) day OR night, you're looking to spend over $200. Plus you get things like recording while parking and easier video retrieval.

But for basic recording the two I mentioned are perfect. Just don't forget to say the license plate in case of a hit and run so that your camera will record you saying it.

I've had this Roav since June that I'm happy with. Its small enough that it fits right behind the rearview so its not blocking my vision. The cable is long enough to tuck behind the trim all the way down to the plug. Feature-wise I wasnt looking for a lot, its got parked mode and motion detection and good quality, even at night. The phone app is a little clunky but works, though its not really any faster than just plugging it into a laptop to copy videos off. It occasionally drops down to like $50, but I think its a good buy at $70

Whatever you choose, I definitely say go with that Roav style form-factor over the suction cup ones. My last one had a cup and it was the worst part.

You need to install a Ground Loop Isolator

That's what is causing the squeal you hear. That's one of many available.

I like the A118-C (aka the B40 Capacitor) because of the wedge shape. It hides really well. It's not amazing quality and doesn't have a ton of features, but it does the job, is unobtrusive, and doesn't break the bank.

Really critical piece here -- The reason you have to use the USB instead of the battery powered down here in Texas is that the batteries are bad news in the heat. You have to get something with a capacitor. It took me about 20min. to set up mine.

I have this one -- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SK8B47W/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's been really solid. After a while I just totally forget that it's there. Right now I'm teaching my wife to drive and it's great to review some things she sees on the road to help teach her :-) That's been the best use of it so far.


It took me about 20min. to install. The cable is super long and the dashcam sticks with 3M tape. So you stick it where you want it (for me it's behind the mirror so I don't see it when I drive but it gets the perfect view) and then you just tuck the cable in along the top area where the windshield is and then I went around the passenger side and then under the floor mat and up to the cigarette lighter.

Hope that helps.

Let me know if you have any questions. Happy to answer.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X528FNE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Though they make one that has a rear view camera as well, and at this point I wish I had gotten that version to have front and rear facing cameras.

If you're on the fence there are cheap like 20 dollar cameras that I initially bought and used for a year to get used to having one.

Basically something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Btopllc-Recorder-Recording-Dashboard-Recorder-Black/dp/B072MQ29Y7/ref=sr_1_12?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1503100203&sr=1-12&keywords=dash+camera

They work decent but I REALLY like my new one, its so much better.

I recently got this one. I did several comparisons, the quality and especially wide angle was better in this one. I found it not very cheap or very expensive, just somewhere in the middle. But you can find anything based on your budget.

https://www.amazon.com/V1-Dashboard-Recorder-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B00X528FNE

Can confirm. Bought one a few years back for this very reason. You can connect to them wirelessly to download the video now, too. So, it's stupid easy to get HD quality video and have quick access to it in these kinds of events.

Here's the one I have: Anker Roav

These are awesome and way cheaper Black Box G1W Original Dashboard Dash Cam - Full HD 1080P H.264 2.7" LCD Car DVR Camera Video Recorder with G-Sensor Night Vision Motion Detection WDR 140° Wide Angle 4X Zoom - Authentic NT96550 + AR0330 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FONBG1A/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_bj1jub04M2AK1

Cheap, generic china cam that has worked well for me: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FONBG1A

There's better ones out there, but this one works just fine for my purposes.

Fiio E10 DAC/amp ($75) and Beyerdynamic DT770 ($178)

I originally did this install back in the day when these were first popping up and down, major credit goes to /u/zedix as I'm pretty sure he was the first one on Nasioc to start this whole trend for Subarus.

My first installation used a head unit that was tucked away behind everything. However the weak pre-amp, and the constant loss of settings (disconnecting battery), and lack on Steering Wheel controls really got annoying. So I set out on this Version 2 project.

*96svx.dc - David was an amazing resource with getting the required harnesses for an 08+, as my car came with a 24pin + 12pin adapter (premium nav) it was very hard to find 2 reverse harnesses that would make this install doable.**

• 2012 Nexus 7 - 1st gen
  
• Timur's USB ROM - in FI mode
  
• Typical Apps...
  
  
• Joycon CPJexr(CarPc Joycon Exr), converts steering wheel input into Keyboard strokes recognizable by the tablet. LINK
  
• Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 - 300watt amp with Molex input/output LINK
  
• USB Dual 80mm Fans with protective grill - LINK
  
• 3.5mm inline to RCA (dual channel) - LINK
  
• FiiO E10 USB DAC LINK
  
• Amazon USB hubs, cheap and easy to hack into - LINK
  
• Monoprice USB Extension Cables - LINK
  
• SanDisk Cruzer Fit 32GB - Stores Music - LINK
  
• Monoprice Micro USB OTG Adapter - LINK
  
• USB Y-Power adapter
  
• JDM 2-tone AV panel
  
• 12v to 5v DC/DC converters (You will need a couple of these, as they are from China they might be DoA)
  
• Other various adapters, and 14 ga wire for all of this to work..
  
  I created a double din sized Acrylic box from 1/4" sheets cut to size by a local shop... Here are the outer dimensions if you are interested in making a similar box to hold all of this.
  
  
• [OD] - 4" x 7" x 5.75"
  
• [x 1] - 4" x 7"
  
• [x 2] - 6.5" x 5.5"
  
• [x 2] - 4" x 5.5"
  
  Hardest part out of the whole install was coming up with the wiring scheme, as all of this is fed off of 12v ignition. The tablet needed to be able to charge, and the USB hub needed to receive power separate from the OTG y-splitter. I simply spliced into the cheap-o USB hubs and made my own DIY 5v USB hubs.
  
  
  
  
  

For your problem - I couldn't recommend these enough;

https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTC450-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Input/dp/B009NLTW60

That depends on if your studio monitors start buzzing when you plug them in. If so, getting an audio interface with balanced cables may help. If there is no buzzing, then you should be fine just plugging them into your motherboards audio port using a dual XLR or dual TS (or TRS) to 3.5mm cable. If you get buzzing, you could also buy a ground loop isolator. That is what I did and it worked wonders. Here is the link for the isolator if needed:
https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2

The new recommended one at /r/dashcam is the A119 I think. I bought the Black Box G1W-C before the A119 came out, and it was only $40 on Amazon, and runs perfectly. Only downside, is it's made by a Chinese company, and although the menu is in english, it's about as intuitive of a menu as you can expect from a Chinese company.

Link to the A119

Honestly, I almost have enough saved clips to make a video of stupid shit. So I'll post that eventually.

Edit: Also, it has been suggested, that if you get into an accident, and the other person starts lying to the cops, let them. Then pull out the footage and show them, get them caught in a lie, and bam, case closed.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HMZVYLY
http://i.imgur.com/I0DSjzd.jpg
Here is my front dashcam setup. I don't have a picture of the back right now.

I used an add a fuse to a DC USB converter. I've had mine in for about a year now with no issues. I went through the horn fuse. I set one up to the right of the TPMS sensor and one in the back in the small glass panel underneath the rear window.
Edit: here is what it looks like,
https://i.imgur.com/tIVI3y1.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/rusnJwk.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Jq0AKJq.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/dAAyZTf.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/BkAIBZj.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/eizLI63.jpg

Dashcam

DC-converter

Add-a-fuse

Didn’t see your pile-up as I was already at work. Sorry.

As for dashcams, I’ve been using an A119c (with a capacitor) for a little over a year now. This one specifically: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HN0HBFG There might be other listings now with a better price, be sure to search around. Just make sure you get the one with a capacitor and not a battery.

I’ve had no issue with the dashcam itself, though some important bits of the GPS mount melted when I was somewhere deep in the Mojave this past August. Air temperature was close to 120 °F and I was on top of a big black lava dome in direct sunlight, so it’s hard to tell how hot the GPS mount was when it failed. Thankfully Houston doesn’t get that warm.

The GPS in the mount continued to work, by the way, even in its deformed state. The camera can backfeed power into it, which I’ve found to be more reliable anyway. I eventually replaced the GPS mount after my windshield caught a rock and cracked, just to be safe.

I like the A119 clones. The picture quality is decent and it doesn’t have a battery inside. It has a capacitor to gracefully shut the camera off when you turn the car off. Batteries can fail in extreme cold or hot weather.

I got mine on Amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01HMZVYLY/

Get a remote lense camera. The camera is very small and the base unit can be hidden some where discrete.

Or get a wedge shaped camera, they also look stealthy. Cover any logo's or led's with black tape.

https://streetguardian.info/sgzc12rc-remote-lens-camera.html

https://www.amazon.com/SpyTec-A119-Logger-1440p-Camera/dp/B01HN0HBFG

It's not the cheapest, but I have this one and I have no complaints: https://www.amazon.com/SpyTec-Version-GPS-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B01HN0HBFG

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HN0HBFG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

SpyTec A119.

That was easy.

Also come over to /r/Dashcam!

https://www.amazon.ca/VIOFO-2K-FHD-Camera-Logger-Memory/dp/B01M28B92C/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=viofo+a119&qid=1564748001&s=gateway&sprefix=viofo&sr=8-5

You can buy a ground loop isolator to get rid of the buzzing caused by EMI.

Probably possible. Not sure if it would be worth it. A dash cam with motion detection and an additional battery might be enough to ease you worries. I had one installed and it makes me feel a little better.

These were taken from https://www.reddit.com/r/Dashcam/

Best cam recommendations

Best value:

• A119 v3 ($110-120 USD)
  
• B1W ($47-55 USD)
  
• Street Guardian SGGCX2 (Includes memory card and CPL filter) ($160-290 USD)
  
  Best value Dual cams:
  
  
• A129 ($150-170 USD)
  
• A129 Pro Duo 4K ($250 USD)
  
• Thinkware FA200 2CH WiFi ($170-180 USD)
  
  Budget dash cams:
  
  
• Yi Dash cam ($50 USD)
  
• Rexing V1 ($100 USD) - Lipo battery
  
• Anker Roav S1 ($90 USD)
  
• Anker ROAV C1 ($73 USD)
  
• AUKEY ($70 USD)
  
• YI Nightscape Dash Cam ($65 USD)
  
  Budget Dual Cams:
  
  
• Rexing V1P Pro Dual ($200 USD)
  
• Aukey DR02D ($130 USD)
  
• Mini 0906 ($120 USD)
  
  Dual Cams:
  
  
• BlackSys CH-300 2CH ($290 USD)
  
• Street Guardian SG9663DCPRO ($260-360 USD)
  
• BlackVue DR900S 2CH (4K) ($430-591 USD)
  
• Thinkware Q800PRO 2K QHD ($380-490 USD)

You buy this, and a 128GB micro sd card, and it has every feature you're looking for.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0742J69SQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9eqxCbTZ6J0P5

I just purchased a Viofo A119 V2. It had good reviews and a decent price. Just arrived yesterday so I still have to hook it up and see how it looks.

https://www.amazon.ca/VIOFO-A119-Camera-Logger-Latest/dp/B01M28B92C

Black Box G1W - http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-Original-Dashboard-Dash/dp/B00FONBG1A?ie=UTF8&keywords=dash%20cam&qid=1464187861&ref_=sr_1_12&s=car&sr=1-12

No real complaints. I hardwired it so it turns on when I turn my car on, turns off when I turn the car off, and records what I need.

For the interested, the G1W is a good entry level, affordable dashcam. I've had mine for a couple of months and have no complaints.

FWIW, I bought this one when it was on sale, and its doing right by me so far.

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-Original-Dashboard-Dash/dp/B00FONBG1A

Video from it looks alright - have never needed to use it, thankfully.

[My dash cam] (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FONBG1A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

There is no affiliate ID on this link, but this is exactly what I have running and I love it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FONBG1A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

32 gig micro sd and 1080p crystal clear video. I love it.

Mine is the Spy Tec A119 V2 + GPS Logger 1440p Car Dash Camera, I got it on newegg on a black Friday sale. It looks pretty great, no complaints. Before this, I had the G1W which is a good starter dashcam if you don't want to pay too much.

Ion Audio Cassette Adapter Bluetooth Music Receiver for Cassette Decks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I3YLHAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9TOKxbZN2KFV8

The same camera but with a cap just has"C" added to the end of its model - G1W-C

Downside is that it needs to be getting constant juice from the car to run, or it will quickly die. So the other one you could actually take out of the car and still operate as a normal camera (not that I think people would really need to or anything).

This one by SoundBot.

The radio I have installed has an aux input, and USB port conveniently next to each other (but obviously no BT capabilities). So this was perfect!

https://www.amazon.com/A118-C-Capacitor-G-Sensor-Records-Recording/dp/B00SK8B47W is still going strong since my purchase on August 14, 2014.

Not OP but mine is mounted the same way here you go.

This one seems okay

I figured out my maximum budget ($100) and then got mine based on the well-reviewed ones on Amazon. At the time, I got this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Rexing-Dashboard-Recorder-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B00X528FNE/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_sims?ie=UTF8

Still happy with it (it's been a little under 2 years now).

I bought this one and it works great. Taking the time to hardwire it into your fuse box so it turns on and off with your car is worth the slightly extra time and effort.

I got the Rexing V1, it's pretty awesome.

Ive been using this one for nearly 3 years now. There are two newer models one that does 4K and another with a rear cam.
I did have a freezing issue at first but that went away when I swapped with a different sd card. I like how it attaches with double sided tape instead of a cheap clip that will break after you hit your third pothole.
/r/dashcam is a great resource as well.

Yeah, the tech in dash cams is minimal by today's standards and $100 ones with wide angle lens are more than sufficient for everyone

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X528FNE

https://www.amazon.com/VIOFO-Compact-A119-Optional-included/dp/B01M28B92C

The Viofo A119 is usually favorably reviewed and they recently released a new version called Pro.

Try checking out r/dashcam

Yep that's what it is. Rexing V1 Car Dash Cam 2.4" LCD FHD 1080p

I got it because when I'm driving around campus area there are pedestrians absolutely everywhere and it's always beneficial to have video proof if something happens.

Edit- Dash cams are way more useful if you can manage to wire the 12v power plug into a "switched" or "ignition switched" power. Basically you turn your car on and then the dash cam starts up automatically because it receives power. It will then run off its battery for about 5 seconds or so after power is killed. One example would be splicing into a power sunroof wire. That wire will only have power on it when the car is running and on.

The workaround to that is having to either run it off battery or manually turn it on every time and you don't want to have to do that.

Some outlets on a vehicle will be labeled if they are battery or ignition power.

that sounds like a ground loop within your car.

go pick up an isolator and see if that fixes it.

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Ssh.zbAJJHFM7

Sorry to hear about your hit and run. Dashcam or any witnesses?

If you don't already have a dashcam, one of the relatively inexpensive and popular models SpyTec A119 is currently $71.96 on Amazon w/ Prime. You sacrifice a cigarette lighter port for peace of mind and possible evidence for police/insurance!

Even having a dashcam makes you a safer driver, because you subconsciously know that your driving is being recorded so you're less likely to speed or make aggressive lane changes.

Dash cam

Rubber gloves, Paper towels, cleaning spray, disinfectant spray, Car freshener ( I like the vent clip type ) Hand Vac, Seat covers if you have Cloth Seats otherwise you can skip them, Heavy Rubber Mats. I would also suggest face masks for cleaning the bad messes should they ever happen.. like someone shits. St. Patty's day is coming up.

Optional. Car Chargers for Phones ( Mini usb, USB 3 ( or whatever the Samsung 8 takes ) and iphone. Aux cord if you have the option to. I just upgraded my headlights from standard Halos to Bright whites. Do NOT get Xenons. Reason being they are ultra bright sure.. but to be that bright they sacrifice life time and live for about 6 months. Get 1 step down. Do the same for Fog lights if you have them. Snow brush if you are going to drive in storms, cause it can build up on your car.

Finally.. a SUPER must.. Call your insurance agency and ask about ride share insurance. I recently swapped from Geico to Allstate because not only was it cheaper, but Geico didn't offer it. Yes it can make a difference. Where as you ARE covered by Lyft when you are driving app on... You can still run into trouble / complications ( including your insurance getting canceled ) if you don't bump it up to ride share.

I would check out /r/dashcam for some cheap but effective one. Personally, look no further than this beast It's got dual camera - front and rear, decent night vision and my personal favorite, it has a swivel so incase you get pulled over, you can move it to face your window. Double check with your recording laws with law enforcement.

Highly recommend this bluetooth car kit by Kinivo. It plugs into your AUX jack and gives your car bluetooth capabilities. Bought it for one of my cars and it works great.

I use the Kinivo-BTC450 which works perfectly for my needs. Automatically connects, aptx streaming, no batteries, siri button, microphone for phone calls and music controls. For a reasonable price, been using mine now for a couple years.

I have this one http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTC450-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Input/dp/B009NLTW60 and it's easily the best thing I've ever bought for my car.

It works perfectly

There are a lot of these, and many better than this one specifically for car usage. Having to charge it every 24 hours? Get out of town.

I have this one in my car, costs a bit more at $40 but is smaller and easily mounted to the dash, no charging required, and also doubles as a USB power plug.

I'd definitely opt for the T440s over the T440p. The T440p is quite a fat system, at 1.3" thick. I mean maybe you're into thick stuff, but I find the T440s' 0.80" to be much more attractive. It's also half a pound lighter (or about the same weight when you config it with the 6-cell rear battery). Here's how I'd config one:

• 4th Gen Intel Core i5-4200U Processor (3MB Cache, up to 2.60GHz)
  
• Windows 8.1 64
  
• T440s 14.0 HD+ WWAN (1600x900) - Upgrading to the 1080p screen might be worth the $120, but that's a personal preference call you'd have to make
  
• Intel HD Graphics 4400 with docking connector
  
• 4 GB DDR3L - SDRAM 1600MHz Base (They want $80 for the 4GB upgrade to 8GB total, which you can do very easily yourself, aftermarket, for less than half that)
  
• 256GB Solid State Drive Serial ATA3
  
• ThinkPad Battery 3 cell Li-Polymer (23.2Whr) Front
  
• ThinkPad Battery 6 cell Li-Ion (72Wh) Cyl HC Rear
  
• 45W AC Adapter - US (2pin)
  
• Intel Dual Band Wireless 7260AC with Bluetooth 4.0 (upgraded WiFi b/c I'm sure at some point during the life of this sytem, you'll want to use the speed of AC, and it's only $30)
  
  Price: $1,164.60 when you sign in via the Barnes & Noble gold discount site (which you can create for free here: www.lenovo.com/barnesnoblegold)
  
  The only downside is the video performance would not be as good as the T440p with a discrete graphics card inside. The HD4400 will run Skyrim, but not very well. Here's a list of games and how they perform with the HD4400 and here's the GT730M for comparison. That's the trade-off really. There do exist systems that could game, somewhat portably, but I just don't think the GT 730m in the T440p is worth having to deal with such a heftier system. I think the durability, portability, and redongculous 14 and a half hour battery life (as tested by Laptop Magazine) outweigh some casual gaming. As far as audio quality goes, most laptops have the same internal sound cards. Fortunately there's some decent portable USB DACs on the market (like the Fiio E07K), if you're looking to upgrade your sound performance.
  
  Also keep in mind that the Lenovo Y40 is just around the corner (probably May?) if you're looking for something with some more gaming prowess that'll be in your sweetspot of portability. It won't have quite the durability of a ThinkPad, nor battery life, but its keyboard isn't far off from the ThinkPad's, and its gaming performance would be far more significant than anything a ThinkPad could offer.

I only have an aux jack and didn't want to shell out for an entirely new head unit, so I use this. It's quite cheap and works great; the audio quality is indistinguishable from regular aux, it has skip and play/pause buttons, and the calling function and mic work exactly as you'd expect.

https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTC450-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Input/dp/B009NLTW60

Ripped the darn cord out.

It does now.

I have this one, and it works great for music. I don't talk on the phone much, so I haven't bothered setting it up to take calls.

Most vehicles have an AUX input (older vehicles usually have a CD Changer option, which in many cases, can be converted to an AUX input using an adapter), so even a cheap AUX->BlueTooth adapter would address this (and it's just nice to have if you're a smartphone user).

There are so many of these devices on the market, you can find them at your local WalMart, Target, Best Buy, etc., or Amazon (example).

Another option is to find a really cheap (even used) SmartPhone, and download the content via Audible while on your WiFi network at home (or a public hotspot if you don't have access at home).

Even BlackBerry has one of these (and works really well).

This is what I use

It starts when my car starts and also has 2 more USB ports for charging other devices. Hope this helps!

I have this one, can share photos/video if requested. If I had to buy a new one it would probably be this one.

I recommend this rexing dashcam here is an accident I filmed a week after I installed it. video

Keep in mind that the video was uploaded in 720p and youtube reduces the quality. The source file is clear as day.

This video from Flex your Rights is pretty good. I used tips from the first section of it to get out of two speeding tickets.

The second section covers how to deal with police when they interact with you on the street and the third covers when they come to your home. Flex Your Rights has other good videos with more example situations.

It's also a good idea to invest in a dashcam, so conversations during a traffic stop can be recorded. A cop's word will trump a private citizen's, but it won't trump an audio recording. I have a Rexing V1, but have heard good things about the G1W, which is much cheaper.

I hope that helped.

I recommend the Rexing V1. Made life so much easier when my wife was sideswiped. Make sure to get a MicroSD card too.

Rexing V1 Car Dash Cam 2.4" LCD FHD 1080p 170 Degree Wide Angle Dashboard Camera Recorder with Sony Exmor Video Sensor, G-Sensor, WDR, Loop Recording https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X528FNE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CZ8TAb96FEHAV

This is my video. Glad to hear about this sub, didn't know it existed! For anyone interested, I am recording on a Rexing V1 driving in Pennsylvania. The driver's brakes were fine, he just wasn't paying attention. I was lucky enough to be checking my rearview at the right time. I didn't move further into the right lane because I was thinking that there may be someone there. Thinking back, I probably should have just hauled ass into the right lane anyways vs risk the semi driver not being that far over to the left and catching me between him and the dumb truck in front of me. My Corolla would not have fared well.

I believe it has more to do with the impedance of the OP-1's output and the impedance of the other device's input. For an example - listen to the the OP-1 with cheap, low impedance headphones and you'll hear a ton of noise. Now listen to the OP-1 using a pair of quality high impedance headphones and you won't hear any noise.

There can me some hum/noise from the output when you have the USB connected, but there is a simple fix for that - a ground loop isolator.

This devices solves alot of the OP-1 noise problems.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EAQTRI/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687662&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000LP4RMG&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1TREYHH1VB189BG8BXJX

I personally use a Viofo/SpyTec A119 and the people over at r/dashcam highly recommend the A119.

It's about $90 on Amazon and is by far the most bang for your buck in terms of dash cameras. It can record up to 1440p at 30fps which is great for picking up small details, it has a wide angle, and great in low light conditions.

EDIT: Fixed link to Amazon

I'm going to leave these recommended dashcams here for you when you're ready for it!

[Yi Dashcam @ 65 CAD] https://www.amazon.ca/YI-1080P60-Dashboard-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B01C89GCHU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523078644&sr=8-1&keywords=yi+dash+cam

[G1W-C - budget pick if you park outside @ 70 CAD] https://www.amazon.ca/Spy-Tec-Capacitor-Resistant-Recorder/dp/B00JJ3SQRI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523078838&sr=8-3&keywords=g1w

[B1W - adds parking mode & G-sensor] https://www.amazon.com/Blueskysea-Recorder-Rotatable-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B0773FXVKL

[A119 - best image quality you'll find under 300] https://www.amazon.ca/VIOFO-A119-Camera-Logger-Latest/dp/B01M28B92C/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1523078871&sr=1-4&keywords=a119

Black Box G1W

I just hooked up this dashcam in my car. Took awhile to arrive but I was in no hurry. It's definitely cheap ($50, free shipping), and you can tell, but I see no reason for it to malfunction since there are no moving parts and it just sits on your window. Reviews for it are really positive, that's why I bought it.

I can't review it at all for you since I installed it last night, so here's a video review.

Here you go.

I solved this by buying a Bluetooth to aux for my car. It plugs into my USB charger on my car (I have a car charger to 2 USB port that comes with the device) and I plug the aux from the Bluetooth into the car. My phone auto connects and I can still charge my device. There is no delay, no sound quality loss, it's pretty good!!

SoundBot SB360 Bluetooth 4.0 Car Kit Hands-Free Wireless Talking & Music Streaming Dongle w/ 10W Dual Port 2.1A USB Charger + Magnetic Mounts + Built-in 3.5mm Aux Cable

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RH29CJO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_L4gszbA4FYNP0

It was only 20 bucks too!!

With this, I also bought a recommended item in the reviews I read - a ground noise insulator. It goes for 9 bucks too. For my case, I didn't see a difference but you plug the Bluetooth AUX into this, then this into the car.

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_l5gszbMKG7BJ5


(PS: I recently got a new car with carplay and still have both of these items. If you'd like, I could ship you these two items I talked about actually! I have no use for them now.)

Ford decided to have the prompt in my car display "Phone disconnected" to mean that there is not Bluetooth module. I did have an Aux port, so I just worked with that.

I have this , and was genuinely surprised by the quality. You do need USB for power, as well.

AUKEY Dash Cam, Dashboard Camera Recorder with Full HD 1080P, 6-Lane 170° Wide Angle Lens, 2" LCD and Night Vision https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072FGL63X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_epEUeow5wXmPa

That is the one I got. I honestly don't remember exactly why I picked this over everything. But it works perfectly as expected. Videos overlap by like 2 seconds so nothing is ever missed. It is sleek enough that people won't notice it. The only argument against it is that it doesn't have a rear view camera, but I doubt that's really important. As long as you can prove you did not do anything dumb to cause the accident, you're in the clear.

I hope that helps. Ask if you have any more questions!

Vantrue N2 Pro Uber Dual Dash Cam Infrared Night Vision Dual 1920x1080P Front and Cabin Dash Camera (2.5K 2560x1440P Single Front) 1.5" 310° Car Camera w/Sony Sensor, Parking Mode, Support 256GB max https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0742J69SQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RqHvCb9YTC6Hb

Its a dual cam, it record cabin and front, I love it. Only thing i did not like from it it's the mount it came loose after a couple of months but I was able to fix it for cheap.

This is the one I use. There are plenty of cheaper ones out there but I decided to go with this one because of:

• Quality (night vision isn't the best, see some of my night time videos)
  
• Price
  
• Loop recording
  
• Auto-on
  
  If I buy another for my other vehicle then I'll probably spend a little more for something with better night quality.

Maybe some grounding issues. I have a similar problem with my op-1 and this does the job Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JqeCCbQD68W2T
I bought a boss noise suppressor as well but it mostly compresses it but it does the job well for $50

Like what /r/jcpb said, try a ground loop isolator in your aux jack. Worked wonders when I got engine noise in my music!

https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1501260462&sr=8-3&keywords=3.5mm+ground+loop+isolator

Ground loop isolator

https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2

this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X528FNE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 you need a micro sd card i got the sandisk extreme 32gb https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HU3Q6F2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 you also need a usb sd card reader if your computer dosent have one built in. for that i got this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JJ1VDQK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

i did a driving test of the cam today and it seems really solid. smooth crisp video and the audio is pretty good quality as well.

its job insurance because if you get in a crash and its not your fault, you can prove that. CDL drivers are automatically assumed at fault for any crash, so proving that you werent at fault goes a long way. like for example if you plowed into someones rear end because he cut you off and then immediately braked, you'd be boned without a cam. its happened to me twice and im not about to let it happen unfilmed if it does.

Do get one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2

Mine was super noisey.. to the point where I was thinking about getting rid of it, but that cleared it right up.

You need to buy a ground loop isolator to plug it in. Something like this:

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qyb5yb6R9BXA1

Does this happen when the laptop is plugged in, on battery, or both?

I have this pretty bad with my desktop rig with my noise canceling headphones, I found that using a ground loop isolator does wonders to eliminate hiss and buzz.

Ground loop isolator helps. Like this one:
Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PYJYzbN0G2NCX

Get a ground loop isolator
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BMAdBbR3WMX52
Problem solved

I use the 3.5mm jack on my Elite and I also get white noise when plugging in a headphone directly. I got a ground loop isolator (specifically this one) and it fixed the white noise issue. It does seem to make the audio output quieter though and may affect some of the headphones' range, but I'm no audiophile so I haven't noticed anything myself.

I noticed that if I have the gain on the OP-1 from line in anything above 0, it gives feedback noise. I also have been using a noise isolator since I got my OP-Z. I noticed even when plugging into my computer via line-in it buzzes a bit. This has helped a lot.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

SpyTec A119 Version 2.

It's the Anker Roav C1. Or for the more precision description and link:

Anker Roav Dash Cam C1, Dashboard Camera Recorder with Sony Exmor Sensor, 2.4" LCD, 1080P FHD, 4-Lane Wide-Angle View Lens, Built-In WiFi, G-Sensor, W https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B06XNSDRW8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_aPOWARz9WRZIM

AUKEY Dash Cam, Dashboard Camera Recorder with Full HD 1080P, 6-Lane 170° Wide Angle Lens, Supercapacitor, G-Sensor and Clear Nighttime Recording https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072FGL63X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qqVYCbB7M8196

Check to see if the Line In and Mic inputs are muted. If not, mute them.

If that doesn't work try a ground loop isolator.

My G3 works through my car with a ground-loop isolator cable.

http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI/ref=pd_bxgy_e_img_y

An added plus is that it reduces noise for any phone that is playing through the car stereo while charging.

Just tried the plug-in. Works pretty well. Some minor black frame flickers once in a while on highest resolution with darkest dungeon. Will try other games and settings later. Also you can buy these cheap noise filter adaptors. I used this one in my last car to cure the AUX noise, and it did the trick to cure the audio here as well. Wow.

https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI

Edit: No black flicker once I limited the fps to 30 fps in the filter controls via PotPlayer. Smooth experience, since Darkest Dungeon runs 30 most of the time when overclocked. 60 fps in town menus but I can live without that.

I ordered some ferrite beads to attach to the cables to see if they work just as well.

Edit 2: ferrite beads have no effect on either cable. The ground loop isolator box is what people need.

I had this issue as well. I purchased a ground loop isolator, and that fixed the problem right up.

I believe This is the one I bought.

You don't need to tear apart your car, just plug the 3.5mm male end into your auxiliary, and plug another male-male aux cable from your phone to the female end.

I would go for 2 of These Subs with This Amp and This Wiring Kit.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_24975_Precision-Power-PPI-S850.1D.html

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0050I6KII/ref=pd_aw_sims_1/189-1619665-3315235?pi=SS115&simLd=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EVZDW00?pc_redir=1405013338&robot_redir=1

Yup, something like this Fiio E10 would be a really good option, especially for headphones.

Yeah, I have one in my car. It was expensive, though.

It also allows me to play music over the car speakers, too.

edit: that may not be the one I have, but I think that would work. If not, you should be able to find similar setups on Amazon fairly easily.

Or you could get a Bluetooth adapter that plugs into your Aux port. https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTC450-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Input/dp/B009NLTW60

Been rocking that for 2 years now.

I personally have been using the Kinivo BTC450 Bluetooth to Aux, and I cannot complain about sound quality, hands-free operation of this with the many, many phones I had in the last three years. My major complain would be that the 12V and aux cable are both really short.

This adapator is awesome and works really well with aux in. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NLTW60/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jHrxCbZ7RR2C0

You can connect your phone to multiple devices that handle different features. My BF's Maxima only has phone support, but he uses a Kinivo Bluetooth Receiver plugged into the aux port for A2DP audio. Phone calls still go through the car's handsfree system. I recommend you look for a bluetooth receiver that supports Apt X to get better audio quality. This is the one we use

​

https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTC450-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Input/dp/B009NLTW60

I couldn't find it quickly but it was something like this.

Most of these things also have mics built in so you can talk or use Siri hands free.

Best android purchase, BTC450: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009NLTW60?pc_redir=1404613782&robot_redir=1

$500 nets you an entry level system, even less if you're not installing yourself. My suggestion is to get a new radio + sub + amp. A new single din radio with usb option runs $80-130 depending on the brand (pioneer and kenwood are my favorites). A new radio with EQ adjustment should allow you to tune your stock system to where the highs arent nearly as harsh. The next thing is a subwoofer (plus the enclosure) and the amp (plus the wiring). Lets start small with an 8" sub in a ported box. An alpine type r 8" is around $100 and a ported box to go with it like this is $70. An amp to power the sub adequately could be a rockford prime monoblock which runs close to $130. An an amp kit to wrap it all up could be the Soundqubed CCA 1/0 amp kit for $60.

Total so far is $490 on equipment, and that isn't including the dash kit and wire harness for your car (which im completely guessing is anywhere from $60-100).

in texas you'll want one with a capacitor instead of a battery (the battery degrades rapidly in the heat).

I've been using one of these for a while and love it:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SK8B47W?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Absolutely, it really depends on what you want. My first dash cam was the Rexing V1 Dash Cam. It is one of the cheapest on the market that is still very reliable. However, it only covers the front of the car. I recently upgraded to a BlackSys CH-100B. This one is a little bit more expensive, but it comes with a rear camera as well. Blacksys has an app that can connect with the built-in wifi of their cameras that allows you to change settings and review footage from your phone. If you want more information there is a subreddit devoted to dashcams. Hope this helps!

Just bought this one for this exact reason. Super easy to install.

Rexing V1 Car Dash Cam 2.4" LCD FHD 1080p 170 Degree Wide Angle Dashboard Camera Recorder with Sony Exmor Video Sensor, G-Sensor, WDR, Loop Recording https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X528FNE?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I don't know too much about dash cams, but I do have this one and it is pretty good. Amazing quality overall, even at night. One thing I do have to say is to be careful with dash cams in extreme heat since they can get damaged on a hot summer day with the windows up. My Rexing did get damaged this way, but the company sent me a new one for free right away.
If you are looking into buying a dash cam, I would recommend looking at YouTube guides/reviews as well as Amazon reviews. I do recommend them to everyone though as they can be a life saver.

I own this. Got it on sale for $70 at some point.

Cable routing is just something you have to put some time into.

I'm a personal fan of the Vico-Marcus 3, but I've heard good things about the A119, and the G1W (or the G1WC)

Get something in your price range, and make sure it has the features you want. Do you want GPS? Ultra-high-res/FPS? Amazing night-time sensors? Automatic crash detection with saving?

Take a look at https://dashcamtalk.com/ for more info about pretty much any dashcam you want.

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-Original-Dashboard-Dash/dp/B00FONBG1A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459362045&sr=8-1&keywords=G1w

I see this one recommended the most here on Reddit.

I have this one. Been going strong for 4 years now. Really good quality video and audio.

This one is also pretty cheap and gets great reviews. It's the G1W.

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-Original-Dashboard-Dash/dp/B00FONBG1A

Somewhat related: After having witnessed many buses in Seattle running red lights (which doesn't seem to be the case with this story) I started a (admittedly super boring) YouTube channel "Cars Running Reds" with dashcam footage from my car. My second video shows a bus blatantly running a red light, downtown followed by a taxi. A completely common occurrence here.

I use a pretty cheap Blackbox G1W purchased from Amazon. Really easy to install. When the memory card gets full, it overwrites the oldest files. I bought it for peace of mind having purchased a new car last year and also been the victim of a hit and run here in Seattle.

I have one of these in my car, works great:
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-Original-Dashboard-Dash/dp/B00FONBG1A

Records at a nice clear 1080p and I can identify plates for sure during the day and mostly at night. Really easy to install, I just leave mine plugged into the cig lighter and it includes a tool to help tuck the cable out of the way along the headliner and a-pilar.

Oh god I've done that before. I have a dashcam so I guess I could look back at it if I wanted to.

Edit: Link to a really good starter Dashcam. I use a different one though.

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-Original-Dashboard-Dash/dp/B00FONBG1A

I actually just ordered 2 dash cams for my car and my wifes car. I posted a link on another comment of mine here but I can post again.
Black Bo G1W. $50 free shipping with prime. Easy to setup. I've been running with it all week and I'm surprised at how clear the video is.

Cassette bluetooth adapter

Problem solved for the cassette adapter issue.

Well.

https://smile.amazon.com/ION-Audio-Cassette-Adapter-Bluetooth/dp/B00I3YLHAC

Get one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/ION-Audio-Cassette-Adapter-Bluetooth/dp/B00I3YLHAC
I have a 1999 Toyota and this gave the radio new life!

I've had this one for 2 years now, no problems. This is a slightly newer version that has no chrome

If you're going to get one somewhere other than amazon, just make sure you're getting the G1W-C/G1W-CB. The C means it has a capacitor instead of a battery; it does better in the heat, but only is powered when your car is running (unless you wire it in to an always-on fuse).

NB: I only park out in the sun when I'm not at home or work. I have had covered parking at home and at work the entire two years I've had the camera.

I picked up one of these G1W-C models over 2 years ago. Paired it with a $10 32GB micro SD card and it's still running great to this day. It's put up with some solid heat and ice cold weather over that time. I check it once a month to make sure it's still recording without issue. Can't recommend it enough.

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-G1W-C-Capacitor-Model/dp/B00MIO2KRC

They're cheap, and then you'd have a way to get the fuckhead who had an unsecured load in his truck.

this is the dash cam I purchased for myself. It does not have a battery, so it only works when it is plugged in. I live in a place with really hot summers so this is the best choice for me. If you live in a place with moderate temperatures, grab the battery version!

The video quality is honestly better than what I paid for, although I did have to replace the charger after about 6 months I would recommend it to anyone, and even buy it again. All in all, it is a great investment that fortunately has only needed to give me peace of mind so far.

Not sure of the brand atm but there's one called a G1W-C that uses a capacitor instead of a battery which is good for high temp environments. It's a little over $50 on Amazon. Found it

I've had the soundbot bluetooth to 3.5mm for a couple years now and can't recommend it enough.

Spy Tec A119 is what I use. Had it about 6 months now and really like it. Daytime quality is excellent, night time I would say is a little above average, and I love how discreet it is.

Can't go wrong with a SpyTec A119

The video actually doesn't do the quality justice since its so heavily compressed! But if you're ever in the market for a dashcam, be sure to consider it :) A119

This is the one I got directly after being on a jury where hundreds of hours and thousands of dollars would have been saved if the defendant had a dash cam:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HN0HBFG

This is what I have, it has saved me on 2 occasions. The company is great about pushing out updates and the GPS makes your speed and time/date easy to determine. It also works great at night unlike a lot of other dashcams that are out that only work ok during the day.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M28B92C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KQfIAbG0FCZN5

Everyone should have a dashcam. Here is a cheap quality one with wifi: https://www.amazon.com/Viofo-Camera-Starvis-IMX291-Sensor/dp/B07F1HQL6D

You can get cheaper if you don't want wifi: https://www.amazon.com/VIOFO-Included-Optional-included-Certified/dp/B01M28B92C

Wifi is nice, but not necessary, it is still slow even dual band. Takes a few minutes to transfer a 1 minute clip. VIOFO also has a premade easy to use permanent wiring kit for parking mode or just permanently wiring to the fuse box so it doesn't use a cigarette lighter plug or usb ports for power. If you can change a fuse in the fuse box, you can easily install it yourself in a few minutes.

You aren't going to get a dash cam that is any better than one of these unless you move up to something like a blackvue that is 4k30. https://www.amazon.com/Blackvue-DR900S-1CH-Dashcam-1-Channel-16GB/dp/B07BWYNBDS

Roav by Anker

I'm not sure what your definition of "affordable" is, but I spent about $200 and got a VanTrue N2 Pro.
I love it.
You may also want a hard drive to archive on. I delete the boring stuff after a week. (Lyft is only doing feedback once a week now, so I don't want to loose anything that may save my bacon.) The not boring...? I'm working on a compilation and laughing my ass off.

Vantrue N2 Pro https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0742J69SQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

*Edited for pretty

My personal recomendations:

Vantru N2 Pro Dual Dashcam - $199 (there are good youtube videos that show you how to conceal the cord quite well, no special tools required.)

SanDisc Ultra 64GB - $16.75 (this is the max size the N2 pro can handle. I suggest getting several of them. They hold 6 hours of footage and will loop over. I swap it out when I'm done driving for the night or if I take a break on a full day.) You will want to get a 256GB SD card which will work with a Firmware upgrade found here. thanks to /u/radiowhatsit for the info.

Water resistant / anti shock memory card case - $7.99 (Nifty little protective case, holds up to 12 SD cards)

~$300 and you get peace of mind from most problems we can encounter.

Sorry this happened to you but am happy to hear you and your kids ended up ok from the experience, but hopefully you can get rid of the nerves from the experience.

I have 2 dash cams. On my daily, I have the Van True N2 Pro. Highly recommend it. It can record outside and also can record inside the cabin of the car. Really high quality cam and easy to use too. Here is the link to this dash cam


For my BMW I bought a more discrete cam. It is a dual channel cam so front and back of car are recording. It was a tad more expensive but I was looking for a discrete cam with a screen and it does the job well so far. The quality is really good but I think the Van True quality is better. Here is the link to the Street Guardian Cam I bought

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HMZVYLY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

SpyTec A119

https://www.amazon.com/SpyTec-Version-GPS-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B01HN0HBFG

the spytech a119 that /u/WildWolf- mentioned is $64 on amazon right now. https://www.amazon.com/SpyTec-Camera-GPS-Logger-Recording/dp/B01HN0HBFG

edit; $70 on ebay! http://www.ebay.com/itm/162258187125?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I currently have an A119. I would recommend the a118, a119, and a119s, the main difference between them being resolution. If you end up with of those and get the gps unit, do yourself a favor and power the main unit not the gps unit. Mine had issues when I powered it through the gps, and it corrupted my videos because it kept boot looping. Moved the cable to the camera itself, and no more bootloop.

Also be sure to pick up a "high endurance" micro sd, they really are better than a regular micro sd for this purpose.

Edit: Camera sample footage. The audio was lost from corruption, but I've fixed that problem now.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M28B92C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_reOFDbM7H9Q44

My current dashcam that I am pretty happy with.

If you don't want to constantly be reaching behind the monitors to adjust the level knob, you will need a passive volume control (attenuator) like this:

http://www.amazon.com/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B0002J226O/

If you have the space for it a 5.1/7.1 home theater receiver will actually provided the easiest, cheapest, and best subwoofer integration since it's guaranteed to implement a proper crossover that high-passes the C-Notes (improving their power handling and clarity about the xover point) and low-passes the subwoofer. Accessories4Less is reliable and has great refurb deals. They'll also put out more clean power than your typical compact Class D amp.

Of course, there's not always space for something like that.

Compact amps with subwoofer out are annoyingly hard to find. The SMSL AD18 and Q5Pro have subwoofer output, but are a bit pricy. They don't get super super loud, but should be plenty loud enough for practice or as monitors I guess! Keep in mind that their sub outs aren't high-passed so the C-Notes will still play full-range.

Alternately you could choose any old amp, and simply control the volume upstream from the amp. Then you won't need a subwoofer out on the amp.

(RCA splitter) --> (inline volume control) --> (piano)

The amp would go into one set of RCA outputs and the sub into another.

You could of course skip the inline volume control if you can simply do it on the piano!

> Main goal is to get distortion free power that won't starve the speakers, so I'm thinking it should probably put out 40 watts per channel at a minimum? I could be wrong there, parts express has the cnotes rated at 60 watts RMS.

If you're going with a class D amps in the $100 range, look for amps rated at around 100W per channel -- typically based on the TDA7498E like the SMSL SA98 and Topping PA3. That "100W" rating is at 10% distortion. However, they'll do 50W at nice low distortion levels, giving the C-Notes about as much clean power as they can take.

However, if you're just using these for practice from a distance of several feet you don't need to go that big. A "50W" class D amp will give you around 25W of actual clean power, which is pretty damn loud at close range and is only ~3dB less than a 50W amp and 6dB less than a 100W monster.

Look for a passive volume controller. They can be as cheap as around $10 if you do not care for aesthetics or Schiit SYS if you want something nicer.

The tone knob has to be the most useless adjustment in the history of electronics. No matter where you turn it, the music still sounds like crap.

The closest thing available today would be a bass knob, which some subwoofer users prefer to adjust bass levels on the fly. A bass knob is mounted on the dash of the vehicle separate from the head unit. https://www.amazon.ca/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B0002J226O

Honestly, a properly designed and tuned system and clean audio sources will be far more enjoyable than constantly fiddling with settings.

This is the correct answer. I got this one from Amazon for $12. Sounds much better now.

For what it's worth, I haven't had such an issue with my 0-Coast, you might try out different power sources to see if you have a defective unit. If it's just ground hum you might consider getting a filter as they are not expensive.

I had a similar issue, but mine was a constant buzzing noise. I ended up getting a ground loop isolator from the manufacturer of my car adapter (Kensington), but I believe you can pick them up from electronic stores (i.e. Radio Shack in the US) as well.

All of them do this, you'll need a ground loop noise isolator. This works wonders!

http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426878588&sr=8-1&keywords=noise+reducing+aux+cable

Fellow teenager that listens to ignorant rap music, I am here for you. Your best bet would probably be [these] (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_34873_Rockford-Fosgate-P2-2X12-11P2-2X12.html) for subs. No box building, good brand, and they get loud. [Here] (http://www.amazon.com/Hifonics-BRX1100-1D-Vehicle-Subwoofer-Amplifier/dp/B00BHSTTLU) is the amp that will power them. Hifonics Brutus are a great budget amp and will do rated power, and they don't look to bad either. Then you will also need a [wiring kit] (http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-KCA-Complete-Gauge-Installation/dp/B0050I6KII/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1395018711&sr=1-1&keywords=knukonceptz+4+gauge) to connect everything. The last question I have to ask you is, do you have a aftermarket head unit?

Pioneer Hu

Front speakers

Rear speakers

5 channel amp

Subwoofer


Sub box

Bettah cheapah fastah strongah

Edit: Amp kit No Walmart boss crap, that amplifier wants up to 80 amps.

I'm pretty sure they flog you here if you suggest anything other than Knukonceptz.

Cheaper kit :
http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-KCA-Complete-Gauge-Installation/dp/B0050I6KII/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381424122&sr=8-1&keywords=knukonceptz+4+gauge

Better grade OFC kit : http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B005CIJBKK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1381424140&sr=8-2&keywords=knukonceptz+4+gauge+ofc

mystery edit mofos.

The one for $285 should be the O2 AMP/ODAC Combo. If that's too much you could go with something like the Fiio E10. A little cheaper and a solid little amp/dac combo. I've had mine for about 6 months now and have been really happy with it, plus is shouldn't have any problem powering your HD558s.

Although, I would LOVE to get a O2/ODAC but I have a really hard time justifying the price...lol...but that's the audio game for ya.

This one.

I've had it for over two years now. Still going strong.

Rexing Dash Cam

Don't know your price range but here's one of the more popular ones on Amazon. Have had it for nearly a year and it's served me pretty well. Haven't had an urgent use for it yet though.

Its electrical noise from the alternator.

They make 'noise cancelling' inline USB power filters and in some cases what you need is what's called a ground loop isolator on the 3.5mm stereo aux input.

https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/

A lot of noise here. I recommend this thing, that I found in a bunch of reddit threads and it helps me a lot with my OP-1 noise reduction, when I record it directly to my soundcard

https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2

So my new motherboard has some electrical interference in the rear audio ports only. It’s minor and it happens when I move mouse and the windows around.

Anyway I already went through hours of troubleshooting, I was wondering if something like this would help.

If not, is the “creative sound blaster audigy FX” a decent sound card? It’s a bit more than I want to spend but I just want to make sure this’ll do the job for music, gaming, movies etc.

I have sennheiser hd 280 pro if it matters.

you need a ground loop isolator like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1493912116&sr=8-3&keywords=ground+loop+isolator

Here

I've had this issue with my phone as well as a bluetooth device I bought (the one in my car died). What you need is a ground loop noise isolator. This is the one I got and it removed the noise for my bluetooth device and phone. Hope it helps!

The 2 biggest considerations are price and if you want a single cam or 2 to cover front and rear.

If you're looking for one around $100, the A119 is a popular choice. If you want one with more features like front and rear cams, I have the Blackvue DR650GW-2CH ($360) that I'm really happy with.

For whichever cam you get I highly recommend hardwiring it and using a Power Magic Pro

Audio is personal preference but I read a good point that somebody made about it that you can use that to record the license plate of somebody that hits you just in case the cam doesn't capture it and they take off. Just read it out loud to capture it.

The one I found the most recommendations for is the Vantrue N2 Pro. I got one and it's very good. Front-only at up to 1440p or front + interior at up to 1080p each. Loop recording in 1, 2, or 3-minute increments. Infrared LED for night-vision on the interior camera. Configurable sensitivity for the G-force sensor.

Example clip from the front cam on mine: https://youtu.be/HocXPP4-B-w

Here is the one I am going to get. Not too expensive and pretty much every feature you would need.

I have this one:

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-Original-Dashboard-Dash/dp/B00FONBG1A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1416530530&sr=8-2&keywords=dash+cam

It's about $70. Automatically comes on when the power comes on. Requires an SD card. READ the comments. The newer faster memory cards don't work. The older slower speed cards do. That saves you money. Just make sure you get the right card.

I may have bought it from a different vendor. But it's the same camera.

One tip: Never do a factory reset. The default language is not English. Otherwise you have to figure out how to change languages back.

The G1W with a 16gb card. I'd probably opt for the 32gb in the future, but if it's just for accidents only and not youtube posting, 8gb should be fine.

G1W: http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-Original-Dashboard-Dash/dp/B00FONBG1A

I'd probably get the G1WH if I were buying today (wider angle, black bezel, tho I painted the bezels on mine with matte black paint):
http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-G1W-H-Hidden-Dashboard/dp/B00HMNFWYW

I here this one is pretty good.

For first time buyers of dashcam, start looking at the D1W. Then compare against others. The D1W is the standard.

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-Original-Dashboard-Dash/dp/B00FONBG1A

Link for the lazy.

The highly rated cheap one is known as a G1W. http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-Original-Dashboard-Dash/dp/B00FONBG1A

Blackbox G1 is what I bought after many recommendations on reddit when people ask. Works well, but the battery sucks on mine.

This is suppose to be a good inexpensive one, i have seen it mentioned a few times in other threads. i dont own one yet but will be getting one in the future.

i got this one after i saw a video of a redditor in an accident with it. just make sure you get a class 4 card or itll crash. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FONBG1A?cache=ab4a6a66d2762e6948a53e86054a8cf1&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1408237998&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

We have 4 of these and 2 friends also got them without issues.

G1W Original*

plus

Mount for Rearview Mirror

*the reason I put the asterisk is due to it actually being an original one. I've ordered from sites like Aliexpress and their original was not actually one. The G1W is a pretty great budget dashcam and the quality is overall great when you are buying the original. Hope this helps!

this would work

I get that's not ideal, but when you're using a technology that's nearly 50 years old (cassettes went into car stereos in 1968) you can't be that disappointed a tech company wouldn't be thinking of your needs.

Edit: fixed link

Dreams do come true.

Here you go, https://www.amazon.com/ION-Audio-Cassette-Adapter-Bluetooth/dp/B00I3YLHAC

Black box. I like mine a lot. Fortunately havent had to use it. It turns on and off with the car

I have this but I cannot recommend it. I got a capacitor model because of our extreme temp swings here. This one is hardwired to my vehicle as well to be on when the vehicle is on.

Being a capacitor model, that means it has to be plugged in to review the footage. The controls are not intuitive either so it is really difficult to stand on the side of the road and show a cop your footage. Also, for some reason, the power port seems to be loose so it does not always turn on with the truck anymore. If I notice it hasn't turned on, I have to shut the car off and turn it back on (always works), or fiddle with the cable (which only works sometimes)

We got this for my wife's car and it works flawlessly. It has endured -33F temps and 100F heat. No issues with this one. The software is pretty nice too.

I'd recommend one. Even if for nothing more than peace of mind. My wife was backed into at a light and the other driver tried to tell the cop he was rear-ended and needed and ambulance. We'd have been on the hook if it wasn't for the footage. The officer really had no reason to believe us over him without the camera.

If you have an aux port, I have this in my mazda3

SoundBot SB360 Bluetooth 4.0 Car Kit Hands-Free Wireless Talking & Music Streaming Dongle w/ 10W Dual Port 2.1A USB Charger + Magnetic Mounts + Built-in 3.5mm Aux Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RH29CJO/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_V-s0xb9T7J4SZ

It works perfectly, no annoyances. Just plug it into your aux port and connect your phone to it via Bluetooth

I recently bought a pair of DT 770 80 ohm's with a Fiio e10 amp and an antlion modmic for right around that budget. I love the whole setup

The DT 770's are VERY comfortable, I could wear them for basically the whole day without any fatigue.

I am not personally familiar with your music, but after a quick sampling I think the DT 770's would serve it well being a bass and treble centric headphone.

DT 770 pro 80's for 149.99

Fiio e10 for $59.99

Antlion Modmic for $32.95 + shipping comes out to be like $50

This has you WELL inside of your $300 budget. This is the setup that I personally use, I play MOBA and FPS games and listen to a wide variety of music from metal --> electronic --> rap. Voices in teamspeak are clear, and the antlion modmic is SUPER clear (and more than capable of voice detection use).

I would recommend getting an amp, while I can power the DT770's off just my motherboard, they do sound much better when being powered off the amp and when you feel like turning them up having the ability to go a bit louder is nice. I was not aware however this setup will be MORE than able to go into "do serious damage to your ears levels" so be careful

Hi Zeos,

Which combination would you recommend?

Headphones:

• Beyerdynamic DT770 PRO 80 ohm (discount, compared to the 250ohm version. Also highly comfortable, according to the reviews)
  
  
• Sennheiser HD280 pro (your older recommendation)
  
  
• Sennheiser HD380 pro (a straight upgrade to HD280s?)
  
  DAC/AMP:
  
  
• Behringer UCA202
  
  
• FiiO E10
  
  I will use the setup at work, hence isolation and comfort are important. Nevertheless I'm not competent enough to decide myself if there's enough power for 80ohm headphones from each DAC/AMP
  
  Thanks!

https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTC450-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Input/dp/B009NLTW60

Forget all of the expensive USB C splitters, this is what you want:
Its a bluetooth adapter that plugs into your AUX in. The power plug has a USB pass through that will charge your device at medium speeds with any Type A to USB C cable.
https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTC450-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Input/dp/B009NLTW60/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1523836214&sr=8-6&keywords=car+bluetooth+aux+in

I have had mine for years. My Nexus 6P and Pixel 2XL both remember it so when I get it in the car it connects automatically. It's really slick.

If your car doesn't already have Bluetooth capabilities

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009NLTW60

I have had this over a year. Sounds quality is better than many built in Bluetooth systems. It connects without fail as soon as I start the car. Highly recommend.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NLTW60/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This has been perfect for me. It plugs into the cigarette lighter, It auto syncs to my phone when I get in the car. Ive had it for 4 months now. Sound quality is great, no problems with range, or static.

hm, that's complicated

get a better bluetooth audio receiver, mine automatically connects to me when it receives power. (which happens when I turn the key in the ignition to or past ACC as the console-between-seats cig-lighter is tied to the ACCessories line.

which causes phone to start playing when connected (music player feature)

which starts my podcasts

my stereo has auto-volume adjust based on speed integrated

this saves me on the GPS battery eating.

I integrated an always-on Qi Wireless pad in the CD tray on the dash with rubber grippy thingies that prevent the phone from sliding around during my race-car driving. Also, both this, or bluetooth audio connection, set DT2W (double tap to wake) so I don't have to hit the power button to wake the screen.

I can't figure out how to do the lock screen disabling, that gives me serious problems regularly necessitating disabling Tasker, rebooting, and disabling the states/scripts that touch the lockscreen, rebooting, and re-enabling tasker...I suppose I'll get around to it one day but the lockscreen has shorcuts on it so I guess it's a feature.

Also, I have not and will never so much as google for this "Android L" or "Lollipop 5.0" business. My keyboard shivers even so much as typing those letters in sequence...

the instant bluetooth is really the greatest laziness-enabler I've ever come across. I just get into the car, leaving phone in pocket, and music starts playing. all too easy...

I have hd558s and use a creative soundblasterz sound card, and I am happy with the quality. But would something like a FiiO E07K be much better?

I'm /u/whitefeather14's friend. If it's solely for headphones and you're not looking to spend a lot, then I would strongly recommend something by Fiio. I have an older one, the FiiO E7. They don't sell this one anymore, but they have a newer one called the FiiO E70k. I haven't personally used it, but I can only assume it's like mine but better.

If it's a little more than you want to spend, then I'd look at the Q1. I've heard good things about these as well.

These are nice, because they double as a USB dac and a portable headphone amplifier. Which means if you're traveling or something you can plug your phone into it and still get the amplifier out of it, no need for a USB source.

If that doesn't interest you, then there's the FiiO K1, which is just a USB DAC, and does not have an analog 3.5mm input, only the micro USB.

Now, understand that any of these aren't going to be the greatest DAC ever. Sub $100 is pretty cheap for a DAC, and I'm pretty sure these are all 24-bit, with 32-bit being more or less the best you can get (There's some debate on whether or not you can hear a difference, but that's entirely a different conversation.)

If you do want something a little more pricey and nice, the Schiit Modi DAC and Magni amp are really quite nice. They also have a Amp/DAC combination for $80 which I haven't heard anything about, but Schiit is pretty good.

The one /u/whitefeather14 said is a PreSonus AudioBox USB. You probably don't want this, as it is primarily an audio interface for recording instruments and microphones, and isn't a dedicated DAC, though the DAC is pretty nice, and as a bonus has a 1/4in headphone out as well as two 1/4in outs for L/R powered speakers, such as studio monitors, if that's of any benefit for you.

As for the SMSL one you posted, I have also heard good things about that one, though it's a desktop unit and does not have an analog 3.5mm input.

Let me know if you have any questions, I'm happy to help.

I just installed one of these: Spy Tech A118-C

https://www.amazon.com/Spy-Tec-A118-C-Capacitor-Dashboard/dp/B00SK8B47W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1472749621&sr=8-1&keywords=a118c

I have this one. $100 plus a spare SD card.

https://www.amazon.ca/Spy-Tec-A118-C-Capacitor-Dashboard/dp/B00SK8B47W/

No fanciness like GPS (not like its speed reading is accurate anyways) or internal battery to monitor your parked cars, but it is also tiny and cheap. Stick it on the windshield behind your rear view mirror and you don't even see it at all.

The adapter it bundles with kind of sucks, but you can decide for yourself or just get a 15' USB to USB-mini cable if your car already has a spare USB power out port.

http://www.amazon.com/Rexing-Dashboard-Recorder-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B00X528FNE

I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/Rexing-Dashboard-Recorder-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B00X528FNE and as long as you have the right kind of SD card, it'll record on a loop. It also turns on when the car turns on, and turns off when the car turns off.

A dash cam is cheap insurance.

G1W-C

V1

I have my G1W permanently wired behind the rearview mirror. It's also not a bad idea to have a second one facing out the rear window.

Can’t vouch for this particular one but I’ve used this style for a bit and it tucks in nicely.

Rexing V1 Car Dash Cam 2.4" LCD FHD 1080p 170° Wide Angle Dashboard Camera Recorder with G-Sensor, WDR, Loop Recording https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X528FNE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_H6OKBb54NZ2A5

I have this one. In use 6 months. No problems. https://www.amazon.com/V1-Dashboard-Recorder-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B00X528FNE

Get the dashcam. Totally worth it. I've had a Rexing V1P for about 6 months now and I don't think I'll ever drive without one again.

The Rexing V1 Basic is $50 on Amazon, and the V1 is $100, and Amazon has a 20% off coupon right now to make it $80.

Rexing V1 Basic - Amazon Smile

Rexing V1 - Amazon Smile

Rexing v1

Rexing V1 Car Dash Cam 2.4" LCD FHD 1080p 170 Degree Wide Angle Dashboard Camera Recorder with Sony Exmor Video Sensor, G-Sensor, WDR, Loop Recording https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X528FNE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7DZ-AbXTJHMQG

I did not initially point out that battery would be an issue but changing batteries should solve that problem for police. This dash cam plugs in but also charges while the car is on. If you set it to run when the car is off it can do that, too.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X528FNE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have the Anker C1 dash cam. I can connect to it via WiFi on the app.

ROAV by Anker Dash Cam C1, Car Recorder with Sony Sensor, 1080P FHD, 4-Lane Wide-Angle View Lens, Built-in WiFi with APP, G-Sensor, WDR, Loop Recording, Night Mode, Parking Mode [Upgraded Version] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XNSDRW8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_EBuUBbNCJSFEX

VIOFO Compact A119 V2

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M28B92C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

r/dashcam has a good list

i have a viofo A119 v2, it was the best option for me when i bought it a year or so ago and has worked fine for me since i bought it

Yep Schhiit dac and amp are fantastic and the HE400 is as well. Can't go wrong with that combo!


Schitt Modi


Hifiman HE-400

Getting into magnetic planar speakers will get you into a whole other class of audio.

Magnetic planar speakers love power so a Magni wouldn't be bad either but that's over the $500 mark but it's not really required. Also the modi have rca outputs so you'll need something like this http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B000I23TTE

EDIT:Skip the modi and just get a Fiio E10 Sorry screwed up on the dac deal but the HE-400 is still worthy by and the Fiio E10 will perform as a good dac and amp.

I agree with pagonda, I'd return them.

> It's currently in the center armrest, but I would really like to place it elsewhere.

> Also, while I'm at it, would it be possible to add a single USB port in that same general area, for charging a phone? Is there any advice or logic for that?

It sounds like you're playing something off your phone and charging it at the same time, and you have no easy way to change the music. Right?

I'm about to blow your mind. Boom.

integrated USB charger, minijack input, easy bluetooth pairing, high quality audio, hands-free calling with noise cancellation, and play/pause/skip/seek.

Thank me later

http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTC450-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Input/dp/B009NLTW60/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1395623512&sr=8-3&keywords=kinivo

Not really overlooked, but I love the convenience of a magnetic mobile car dock (the one I have was extendable, and doesn't seem available anymore).

If your car is old and doesn't have built in bluetooth but does have an aux port - this is a great bluetooth receiver with built in mic (I got mine for INR 1747)

https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTC450-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Input/dp/B009NLTW60/ref=sr_1_27?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1540488408&sr=1-27&keywords=Aux+Bluetooth

​

I have it, Works great

This adapter has a microphone that's separate from the aux plug. It comes with a 3M sticker that lets you place it on the exterior of the center console, and it picks up my voice rather well.

http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTC450-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Input/dp/B009NLTW60/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418681593&sr=8-1&keywords=bluetooth+car+kit

That's the one I use in my truck. It plugs in to the cigarette port. I have one in my truck that's switched, so it's only on when the key is on.

• I like the Moto Power Pack Micro. Handy to have a keychain battery pack, which can also act as a phone finder and trusted device.
  
  
• Also have to give props to the Hula case that my phone came with. Makes it nice and grippy.
  
  
• The Kinivo BTC 450 car bluetooth adapter is great if you have an old car that lacks built-in bluetooth.

I bought it, it seemed great but the problem I had with it was that you had to manually turn it on and off. I wanted something that turned on and off with the car. I bought this instead, who knows if it's BIFL or not with that said I'm very happy with it.

Kinivo BTC450 Bluetooth Hands-Free Car Kit for Cars with Aux Input Jack (3.5 mm) - supports aptX by Kinivo http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NLTW60/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_r0sVub14M1MAM

Kinivo BTC450 Bluetooth Hands-Free Car Kit for Cars with Aux Input Jack (3.5 mm) - Supports AptX https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NLTW60/

I have this one and love it!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009NLTW60/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1416721052&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

It has buttons on it to pair, pause/play, and volume control. I have it in my center console compartment with my aux port, never touch it really, I use my phone mounted on the dash. 99% of the time it connects automatically when I turn my Bluetooth on, the other one percent I have to open the console and just tap the main button real quick and it pairs.

Another nice thing is the cigarette charger for the power has an aux converter built in as well. Can't speak highly enough about the unit, I researched a few and they're all around this price range too.

Here's some more!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?k=bluetooth+car+adapter

Yup. I have this and its awesome.

http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B009NLTW60?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Does your car have an auxiliary input (3.5mm jack)? If it does, then you can get something like this adapter to use it for Smart Lock and for calls or to stream music wirelessly.

Actually I have a Pontiac but it's just a factory radio with an AUX input. I tried a few aftermarket stereos over the years trying to find the right level of iPhone integration, but finally settled on the Kinivo BTC450 and it works great and should be somewhat futureproof. I ran the wires so it's reasonably integrated looking.

In case anyone is trying to figure it out, I added an extra 12v accessory behind the dash to hide the plug, then added a usb extension so the USB port in the plug isn't wasted (the extension pops up beside my seat). I did need the Ground Loop Isolator that so many mention in the reviews.

Edit: I also forgot to mention that Siri was difficult to hear until I changed a setting that made her not speak unless over Bluetooth. For some reason that made her speak over bluetooth at a higher volume. Almost remember you can adjust her volume while she's speaking using the volume keys.

The HD598 is good, but I'd also look into the AD900X if you liked your old headphones. The bass and treble extension should be much better, and the soundstage will remain very nice and open.

A good amp/dac to consider is the FiiO E07K which has EQ settings for bass and treble, so you can flavor your music even more to your tastes.

I'd recommend the Mad Dogs for $300, and spend $90 further on a Fiio E07K if you want to get the best out of them. One of the best-value high-end closed headphones around.

I would recommend you buy a fiio andes.

http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E07K-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A9LHLQ6

It is powerful enough and you won't really be missing out on anything.

At any rate, you are always better off buying better headphones and getting a good enough amp than buying ok headphones and getting an all-star amp.

For those who are interested, the cans are V-Moda Crossfade LPs that can be picked up on Amazon for half price from retail (my particular pair are Gunmetal, but they come in other colors). The ear shields on the sides are interchangeable and can be custom ordered and laser engraved from the official V-Moda website in various colors, and this is the image I used for engraving... cost around $50 for the custom etching if memory serves correctly.

On the nerdier side of audio, the headphone amp/DAC (digital audio converter) combo sitting on the left is a portable FiiO e07k Andes, all being played from a Google Nexus 10.

Out of the box, the LPs are a bit bassy (or "muddy" as some people call it), but using an amp really cleans everything up, in my personal opinion, and pushes the cans to their potential. For those who don't really consider themselves "audiophiles" or whatever you want to call it, headphone amps make a pretty big difference on mid - high range audiogear... near night and day in my opinion.

Hope this answers any questions about the set up! :D

Well, the HD 558's are actually fairly easy to drive to adequate volume levels, but they benefit from a headphone output or amplifier with low output impedance - from the reading I did, it seems like the output impedance of the Xonar DG is fairly high.

If you're upgrading, you could go for something external with a DAC, like the Fiio E07K.

That said, expect the differences between the DAC and your sound card to be fairly subtle - at most you can expect bass that is a bit tighter and tidier. The HD 558's are fine headphones, but aren't in any way what I would consider high end.

(Also: Your question would probably have been better in /r/headphones)

Sounds a lot like how I use my closed VModa M100s. They're a bit bassy though and at $300 I really can't justify suggesting you stretch the budget. It's not really worth the $50 on top unless you get a lot of utility from the fact they collapse so small for easy transport, the super hardcase you get, detachable cables, etc. Sound alone you can do the same for less.

Such as the Beyerdynamic Custom One. They can be bassy if you want, less so than the VModas, but have adjustable ports to move towards the "open" side of headphone world. Which might be nice for later nights in the office when you're not so worried about sound leaking in. Also the Beyer DT770, which is the earlier forerunner to the Custom. They are both super comfortable for long periods (so is the VModa).

The Custom One has a detachable cable while the DT770 has a typical studio long-as-heck cable. Those are bits to keep in mind if you're going to, say, roll from the office to public transit to the home office. You don't want a 12' cord with you.

Speaking of 12' cords, the ATh-M50 will of course get mentioned. Also very comfortable. More bassy than it should be for a monitoring headphone but I've noticed that changes with dacs/amps. Taking the M50 right out of my Macbook there's a lot of difference between it and the VModa also running out of the macbook. put a Fiio E07K in the signal path and the differences get cut down a bunch. Not entirely sure why as I just noticed this over the week. But wanted to put that FYI out there.

If you stay with these choices, and/or other 32 ohm and less models, you don't need an AMP or a DAC/AMP, but they can make a solid amount of difference. But perhaps not in the sense of "I can't believe I used to listen straight from my headphone jack." These headphones will themselves make the biggest impact with regard to quality difference in the sound. The amp or amp/dac will do more of the Quality Control side.

To me, especially if I'm seated in an office for a long period doing computer work uninterrupted, getting quality full sound out will keep me from putting the volume up too high to compensate for any SQ shortcomings derived from the computer, power requirements which change the power going to the headphone out, etc. Plus, I can EQ some bass away if the closed office headphones necessitated by the isolation requirement remain too boomy for the music de jour.

Things like the Fiio E07K or E17 are great and cheap, so is the Schiit Magni/Modi stack or the o2/odac. While the E07K is probably the only bit that would fit with headphone at a combo price in your budget, they are all interesting $100 bits to add to the setup later to up the sound quality (from the sound card). Not a ton of difference between them all so I would just go on price/feature basis. Or just collect them all. I have a Fiio stuck in my bag for mobile and a schiit magni now at the office, which is easy to connect to the Fiio as a DAC. Probably will grab the modi at some point because stringing cables to the Fiio isn't always "office friendly" in appearance for days where it shouldn't look like I was soldering at my desk, but I am really happy with the setup and work flow it creates. YMMV but hope that paints a complete picture which perhaps can help you judge other recommendations relative to your planned usage.

Here you go, Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier by Rockford Fosgate http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_zvZ.tb0TXQNX6

8 ohm is not so much special as it is uncommon in car audio. your home speakers are going to be around 8ohm but most car audio subs are 2ohm or 4ohm. so here is a very cheap but good car audio amp: http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_4?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1406508052&sr=1-4

this amp will do 300W at 4 ohm or 500W at 2 ohm. at your 8 ohm speaker this amp will do around the 150W range at best. so your sub is rated at up to 500W. this amp will run this sub for now and if you ever want to upgrade in the future you will have 500W at 2ohm to play with.

if an amp can produce 1,000W on a 1ohm speaker if you hook a 2ohm speaker to it that amp will then produce around 500W. if you attach a 4ohm speaker to it that amp can then produce 250W of power to that sub. if you hook your 8ohm sub to it that same 1KW amp can dish out around 125W of power to that sub. roughly

I believe you can get better quality for not much more. Look at a Dayton audio or image dynamics 12” sub something in the $100 range that has dual 4 ohm voice coil.

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss315ho-44-12-reference-ho-dvc-subwoofer--295-467

Possibly a pioneer or Rockford amp. Maybe: Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SkF0AbH0KCQBR
Then get a prefab sealed box. Sonic has them for about $40 and then an amp install kit from knuconceptz or piece your own together using welding cable for the power and ground.

Should run you under $350 and last longer, take less space and outperform that system you asked about.

Oh. You are going to need a line level converter in order to tie into your stock system.


I don’t know why you are down voted. You asked an honest question...

Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vlp1CbJTXJETX

Rockford Fosgate Prime 750 Watt Class D 1 channel Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004T166L8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7lp1CbQXKYYXD

I think he meant a headphone amp/dac, which often have preouts to control the volume of your speakers. Schitt Fulla 2 is one example.

This things $10 and should work fine, albeit being a bit small.

PAC LC-1 Remote Knob - $10.84

http://www.amazon.com/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B0002J226O

Works with every amplifier, possibly the best purchase I've made in my setup. Simply controls the signal running from the head unit to the amplifier, therefore controlling the volume of the amp.

Conventional "bass" knobs could possibly blow your subs like my sister did. She had a system installed and the installers mounted the "bass" (gain) knob on the dash and told her to control it for how much bass she wanted. She blew them within a year to the point the one seized and I couldn't punch it free...

You could get something like the Alpine Power Pack and an universal bass knob that has RCA cables in and out to use as volume control. Then use an RCA to AUX cable for your phone/tablet.

Just use a RCA Level Controller on the Sub RCA's. and you effectively have sub remote on any amp you want.

Sounds like you're looking for PAC LC-1 Remote Amplifier Level Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002J226O/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_3ohNub1FXEMV3

I had one in my old car and keep meaning to buy it for my new setup.

Some put it on the front of the cab below the control deck. You will have to find a way to mount it so it stays. I put a shelf in mine. Doing that you could easily set it on the shelf as a way to mount it.

Another option is to do the volume mod and use the existing volume control to do mute/low/high (https://github.com/dmanlfc/arcade1up/tree/master/Raspberry%20Pi) *I'm posting how to do this with ODROID/Retro Arena soon.

Finally, what I'm doing is I ordered this: PAC LC-1 Remote Amplifier Level Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002J226O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cHdYCbJ5BCF0J and either going to replace the volume switch with this or put it under the control deck.

Hope this helps :)

You almost definitely don't need an external DAC. If the one built-in to your PC or laptop doesn't have audible noise or other issues, it's essentially a waste of money. And cheap integrated DACs, as long as the implementation isn't screwed up, can be transparent to big dollar ones... it's the absolute last place to spend money when trying to improve audio quality - far behind speakers, room treatments, and source file quality.

I personally am wary of the LSR 308s. Noaudiophile (/u/strategicdeceiver) is working on their review and has mentioned many times now that the large enclosure is too paper-thin and makes it sound worse than the 305s.

You could spend the extra money on an analog potentiometer for proper and convenient volume control. Something like this, or an Emotiva control freak, or Schiit sys.

This will adjust the voltage of the pre amp.

This is what you want to get audio to your speakers, it's called a DAC, (better, more expensive options are available, but that's the best you're gonna do for under $100 lol) and this is the cable to connect the two devices (you'll also need RCA cables)

This will get you video to your projector.

Unfortunately since it looks like you're using powered monitors, you'll need a pre-amp to control the volume.

You may be thinking wow that's a lot of stuff, and it doesn't even come with a remote! And you're absolutely right. Unfortunately, the only thing that does all that is a full blow receiver, which get quite expensive and are usually aimed at surround sound systems. Most receivers don't like powered monitors though, so you'd have to get a very special one.

This is where you realize that passive speakers are what you really want, and you blow hundreds of dollars on speakers and equipment and you become an audiophile. Luckily there's a bunch of guides to get you started over on /r/zeos. But the stuff I listed earlier should let you jerry-rig a working set up while you save up :P

Are the speakers powered? (have their own power that plugs into the wall)

Without actually hearing the sound I'm just guessing but you might be suffering from a ground loop.

A simple ground loop isolator may fix the problem.

https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI

(this is just an example, not a recommendation as it's the first that popped up in search).

https://smile.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI/ref=smi_www_rco2_go_smi_g2609328962?_encoding=UTF8&%2AVersion%2A=1&%2Aentries%2A=0&ie=UTF8

You are welcome.

Like this: http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI

It was the only thing that stopped random feedback noises on my older car.

I have a 2008 Mazda3 too. I'm an engineer with audio experience, so hopefully you find this helpful.

If you're using the stock sound system, this device will work fine; it's a ground loop isolator. With the stock sound system, the frequency cutoff is hardly noticeable - even if you are using the AUX IN with a high grade, insulated cable and lossless audio.

Link: http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422050578&sr=8-1&keywords=ground+loop+isolator+3.5mm

If you're going to upgrade the audio system, chances are that the installer will properly ground the audio components, mitigating the issue.

I used the GLI on my stock sound system for 7 years. When I upgraded the tweeters, speakers, and head-unit, I no longer experienced the electrical noise.

That's a ground loop issue. I'm assuming you are sending audio to your radio with an AUX jack.

The charger will be referencing one ground, which will become the "ground" for the audio signal. The radio ground will be at a slightly different potential, though, because the radio ground could be from a slightly different part of the car than the cig lighter ground.

Because of the mismatch, the radio "reference" of ground is thrown off, and you get a whine.

If you really care about it, this sucker, or similar, works wonders. I use one of these between my HTPC and stereo for the same reason at home.

It takes up space in the car, but usually you can tuck it out of the way. It's the size of...uh....like half an altoids tin, so not huge. I actually went into my panel and installed it between the aux jack and stereo in my car for a "cleaner" look.

That is a ground loop and normal.

Buy

http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI

I had a similar issue and got one of these. Worked perfect. Not as much macgyver of course...

Sounds like a ground loop; I had a similar issue daisy-chaining some Astro Mixamps. Put something like this between your 3.5mm cable and your PC: PAC SNI-1/3.5 3.5-mm Ground Loop Noise Isolator

Best of luck -- unwanted noise is terrible!

http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI

This should fix the issue.

Yes, but you can buy a "ground loop isolator" for $10 that is made to eliminate that sort of problem.

Now I've not tried this myself but maybe this thread could help you

https://www.operator-1.com/index.php?p=/discussion/2319/op-1-noise-fix

Here is the product mentioned.
There are definitely other solutions to this problem too.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EAQTRI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Or just search Ground Loop Noise Isolator to find similar

I bought this guy off of amazon Ground Loop Noise Isolator I use it for my sirius player and phone aux cord, and it silences the hiss for me.

A ground loop isolator should solve your problem. I stream video games on twitch and I have 3 of these in my setup. It clears up electrical interference from un-grounded electrical equipment, which is why your speakers don't have the sound and your headphones do.

Both g6 and astro need to be hooked up via usb. Then run your headset to the g6. Then an aux cord from the g6 line out (might be line in, I forget) to a ground loop like this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001EAQTRI?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

Then connect the male end of that ground loop into the astro tr headset jack (where your headphones used to plug in) and that's it. Should have no issues controlling audio mix while having the benefits of the G6 for in game sound, music and movies.

This is the cheap route, but will bring good results=

Audiopipe apsm 1300, usually 100

http://www.amazon.com/AUDIOPIPE-APSM-1300-1000W-Audio-Amplifier/dp/B004KA81AW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412987065&sr=8-1&keywords=apsm+1300


Audiopipe apsm 4 channel

http://www.amazon.com/AUDIOPIPE-APSM-4080-1200W-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B0078UAT1U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412987141&sr=8-1&keywords=Audiopipe+4+channel

Wire

http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-KCA-Complete-Gauge-Installation/dp/B0050I6KII/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412987238&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=knuconceptz+4+gauge+kit

Distribution block for two amps

http://www.amazon.com/Stinger-Shoc-Krome-Gauge-Distribution-Block/dp/B001F6W4FW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412987302&sr=8-1&keywords=4+gauge+distribution+block

i think you can get a better subwoofer, but thats just my opinion..

but in answering your question of what wires... may as well just go with that knukonceptz 4 ga kit ...

I ran you a search on SonicElectronix for your criteria: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/viewcat.php?category_id=41&sort_order=price_desc&filter_f_op_37=408&price_min=34.99&price_max=294.99&filter_f_op_31=98&filter_f_r_33%5Bmin%5D=201&filter_f_r_33%5Bmax%5D=400&filter_f_r_32%5Bmin%5D=301&filter_f_r_32%5Bmax%5D=500 I would suggest the Orion subwoofer or the RF Sub with the enclosure. Can't really beat it for the price. Amp Kit: http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-KCA-Complete-Gauge-Installation/dp/B0050I6KII/ref=pd_sim_e_5 Use the rest of that money however you may like. :D

To keep to your budget.....yes on the sub with box. No on the rest. Try this wiring kit and spend the remaining sixtyish dollars on the best 300 watt mono amp you can find on Craigslist. Kicker, alpine, Rockford etc. It will prob sound pretty decent and be as cheap as possible.

Your subwoofer is 4 ohms and can handle 300W RMS, so you need an amp that can put out 300W RMS @ 4 ohms. I own the Alpine MRP-M500 and it runs like a champ. That matches your spec exactly. Don't cheap out with something from Boss or Pyle, they lie about their specs. Power it with a KnuKonceptz 4AWG kit and you'll have gauge to spare if you decide to upgrade in the future.

You can buy something cheap like this or more expensive like this. Both of them will work.

One is a sound card, may have a different EQ and perhaps a very small AMP included. The other is a Digital to Analog Converter plus an Amplifier.

Hope this helps.

iPhone 6S.

I do have an external USB DAC I could try.

I also have the Audio Technicas. Are they good enough?

I would recommend this one:
http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10-USB-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B005VO7LG6

It does not have a mic though.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0742J69SQ/ref=s9u_simh_gw_i1?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pd_rd_i=B0742J69SQ&pd_rd_r=aa72b026-199e-11e8-96f1-ebe7d0fa46e5&pd_rd_w=mLeCd&pd_rd_wg=WGGPo&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=GJJ438815JW0DQGJAKXH&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=e6624b56-7cc1-411f-9d12-9cc8feb6c214&pf_rd_i=desktop

sorry for the awfully long link.

Vantrue N2 Pro Uber Dual Dash Cam Infrared Night Vision Dual 1920x1080P Front and Inside Dash Camera (2.5K 2560x1440P Single Front) 1.5" 310° Car Camera, Parking Mode, Support 256GB max, Sony Sensor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0742J69SQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7wjRCbP00SGS2

Heard they might not take footage but well worth the investment as it's got a great interior night vision.

Vantrue N2 Pro, been solid in the year and a half I've had it. I got this mirror clamp mount to use instead of the usual suction cup thing, $9 well spent (if a little annoying to get situated at first). I tuck the power cable through the headliner, down the door seal, and to the 12v outlet. Came out really clean.

https://www.amazon.com/Transcend-Drive-Recorder-Suction-TS32GDP520M/dp/B0147QA57K?th=1

https://www.amazon.com/N2-Pro-1920x1080P-2560x1440P-Detection/dp/B0742J69SQ

and someone else linked a new version of the Transcend.

You will qualify everything for up to your size. Uber XL and UberX -- You will know the type of ride it is and you can choose to accept it or not.

​

" Otherwise I plan to be pretty laid back and take song/music suggestions, offer complimentary bottled water, wifi, charging cables, bring/get their morning coffee, ie. I want my riders to have the best experience possible! "

​

That wont last long at all. We've all been there and will be gone within a week. Everyone will suggest to keep it simple. A charging cable and Aux is more than enough.

​

You can do as you please as you wait for a ride. You can hang out in McDonald's, sit on your couch at the beginning of shift waiting for the first ride. You are the boss. Do what you want when you want.

​

DashCam? Yes Yes Yes! Here is the most recommended dashcam here on this sub.

​

https://www.amazon.com/N2-Pro-1920x1080P-2560x1440P-Infrared/dp/B0742J69SQ

https://smile.amazon.com/N2-Pro-Infrared-1920x1080P-2560x1440P/dp/B0742J69SQ

Records both inside and outside simultaneously at 1080p, and has infrared lights for the inside camera so you can see what's going on at night.

I was running the [Vantrue] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0742J69SQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_hHOTCb6FKY0A2) but it's in my daughter's car now and I'm about to order the Viofo A129 Duo to try out.

It looks like a Spytech A119 dashcam. I looked at the number on the bottom right. Video records at 1440p.

https://www.amazon.com/Spy-Tec-A119-1440p-Camera/dp/B01HMZVYLY

I bought this one for my Renegade https://www.amazon.com/SpyTec-A119-1440p-Dash-Camera/dp/B01HMZVYLY/ I got the recommendation from r/dashcam hope this helps some!

There are some with a wedge shape that fits up toward the top of the windshield. Really hard to spot without looking for it if your windshield has those black dots are darker area up there.

I use a Viofo A119 from SpyTec. Has the wedge shape and some great features for $99 with GPS mount (would recommend getting this for better wiring direction and easier removal if need be) and $89 for regular mount.
Two reviews for ya.

It's the A119, this is the one I got https://www.amazon.com/SpyTec-A119-Logger-1440p-Camera/dp/B01HN0HBFG/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1484623469&sr=1-1&keywords=a119

I'm pretty thrilled with it. I'm running it 1080/60 but am thinking of switching to 1440/30 because I hear plates are easier to read and it's slightly brighter at night. Gonna play around with it at least.

Also need to mute the beep when I press buttons as you probably noticed!

VIOFO/SpyTec A119 (not A119S). It's one of the most recommend dashcams under $100.

Here's the
Amazon Link I bought it from.

I bought a spy tec a119 and you can barely see the thing even when you're looking for it. Put it behind your rear view mirror and you're golden.

I dont know what your financial situation is, but this one(~$50) is the cheapest one recommended by DashCamTalk.

The one I have is a mini 0803 which has been updated to the mini 0805 (~$80).

If you can find an affordable option that has capacitors instead of a battery, go that route as the battery will fail after a few months of hot weather and leave you without accurate time/date stamps on your videos, and you'll lose any other settings, but the device will still continue to work.

I currently have a SpyTec A119 on the way, but there are so many different features you may be interested in, take a look at that DashCamTalk site, or at least that BestOf page.

When it comes to driving, having a camera is always nice, I wish I had bought a nicer one sooner. There has been footage that was useless due to the poor video quality of my current cam. Unreadable license plates, or SAPD car numbers like in this video. I had a video of a guy turning in front of me, he had a snake around his neck, but upon reviewing the video you cannot make out the snake.

If you can afford it, definitely get one.

$90. Boom. I have one in both of my vehicles. It's a great dashcam.

SpyTec A119 https://www.amazon.com/SpyTec-A119-1440p-Dash-Camera/dp/B01HN0HBFG/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01HN0HBFG/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$10 cheaper with capacitors https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HN0HBFG/

>What if you live in a no-fault insurance jurisdiction?

Really interesting point, but I think it might be too complicated to invalidate dashcams altogether.

>What if you live in a high-crime area and the dash cam would be an attractive smash and grab target?

There are more "stealthy" models that look like black wedges. For example:

https://www.amazon.com/VIOFO-A119-2-Inch-1440P-30fps/dp/B01M28B92C/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510354890&sr=8-3&keywords=a119

>What if the cost of the dash cam outweighs the savings it brings you? For example, if you like in an area where these types of scams are uncommon, you may only need the camera once every ten or twenty years.

You're paying the dashcam once. The dashcam and maybe a microSD card and maybe extra accessories. It's not an ongoing cost. I don't see how your counterargument is different from arguing against fire extinguishers. EDIT I would hope I never have to need a dashcam's footage or need to use a fire extinguisher.

[A119] (https://www.amazon.ca/VIOFO-A119-Camera-Logger-Latest/dp/B01M28B92C) I have this one. its a 78% increase in resolution and great night mode.

Viofo A119 v2 on Amazon.ca. I have been using this camera for 3 months now... No problems at all. Excellent video quality (quad HD 2560x1440p) both day and night. Easy to operate... Check the reviews on Youtube.

My vote goes to this Soundqubed sub and either this Fosgate amp, this Alpine amp, this Kenwood amp, or this Pioneer amp. All those amps are good brands and will be decent. As for the box, make your own. Shouldn't cost more that 50. Also will need wires, KnuKnoceptz makes great wire for cheap, this 8 guage ofc wire kit that would match up perfectly with all these amps is like 34 bucks for quality wire. Sadly all this will add up somewhere around 300 but if you find the amp used you might be able to slide under 250. If you go used make sure you get a quality brand. Don't skimp on the box or wire either, they are both just as important as a good amp and sub combo.

This is a great amp for the price, then if you want to get another sub in the future you will have the extra power on hand
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BF6HYDE/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495122194&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=300x2+amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=51m3QK2fvWL&ref=plSrch

It's a P3D4-10 hooked up to a R500X1D. I was on the fence about getting an LC7i and getting a full new system but went with just the sub and everything else factory. I installed it using the high-level signal and it sound is amazing. Non-fender stock system is fine it just needed a little bit of a bass and a 10" sub in a sealed enclosure did the trick. Also saves on space.

Absolutely! I can't stop recommending a dash cam in everyone's car. Having one has saved me twice in previous cars, where it's my word against theirs in a accident. I show the police officer the video and it's case closed.

I have used a few in different vehicles and my new favorite is the [Rexing V1] (https://www.amazon.com/V1-Dashboard-Recorder-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B00X528FNE/ref=lp_10517197011_1_1?srs=10517197011&ie=UTF8&qid=1484396363&sr=8-1), I love that it uses a mounting plate instead of a suction cup. The [BlackBox G1W] (https://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-Original-Dashboard-Dash/dp/B00FONBG1A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484396572&sr=8-1&keywords=blackbox+g1w+dash+cam) is half the price and uses a suction cup, smaller screen, slightly cumbersome interface, but is still a reliable cam that I still use in two other vehicles. Be sure to buy the [Hardwire Kit] (https://www.amazon.com/Rexing-Hard-Wire-Mini-USB-Port/dp/B01LXC2329/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484396782&sr=8-1&keywords=rexing+hardwire) so you can hide the wire and not use a 12V outlet.

I tapped into 12V ignition power from the sunroof controls, others have used mirror power to feed cams. Also, be sure to only use a "Class 10" SD card to avoid file errors. You can use T-taps (see album link above for example) for a simple connection, I would only recommend using T-taps for very low power consuming devices, otherwise use butt splices (source: 10 year industrial power & controls technician)

[Here are a few photos of where I mounted the Rexing cam in my 2017 IS] (http://imgur.com/a/bKgOg)

I have bought two of these. First one lasted like 2 years. Second one is still going. They're cheap and they will break, but they only cost like $50 and they do exactly what I want. Ring buffer, automatic on when car starts, video quality is good.

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-Original-Dashboard-Dash/dp/B00FONBG1A/ref=sr_1_13?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1468606984&sr=1-13&keywords=dash+cam

General question : What are some good dashcams out there? I already have http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-Original-Dashboard-Dash/dp/B00FONBG1A for one car, I'm debating getting more for the family or going with a different model.

Try searching "dash cam"







This one is pretty decent and fairly cheap. It's the one i use.

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-Original-Dashboard-Dash/dp/B00FONBG1A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410924182&sr=8-1&keywords=dash+camera

I got mine for $55. Buy it.

Checkout the sidebar at /r/Dashcam

I would go with whatever has 1080p, 32+GB capable microSD card slot, and a good amazon rating.

I wouldn't do GPS with speed in case you got into an accident as the cops could use it against you.

FWIW I use this one with a 32GB card for 1 week of daily commute recording time: https://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-Original-Dashboard-Dash/dp/B00FONBG1A/ref=sr_1_14?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1467139831&sr=1-14&keywords=dash+cam

The Black Box company line of G1W Dashcams is suppose to be from the official manufacturer in the USA. They have a full line of products that all show official packaging and manuals. Most legit company it seems with an actual support email and website -

Original G1W $58.95 - http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-G1W-Original-Dashboard/dp/B00FONBG1A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409156204&sr=8-1&keywords=g1w

Capacitor (no battery) G1W $58.95 - http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-G1W-C-1080P-Capacitor/dp/B00MIO2KRC/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1409156259&sr=1-4

320mAh G1W $63.99 - http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-G1W-HD1080P-Novatek/dp/B00J2OVN74/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1409156259&sr=1-2

H(Hidden) G1W $79.99 - http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-Detection-Recorder-Technology/dp/B00HMNFWYW/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1409156259&sr=1-3

Here is the desktop version of your link

It is one of the best purchases I've made. Here is the camera I bought:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FONBG1A/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_QYlqub1AX7YWJ

Full 1080p HD video recorded to a MicroSD. I mounted mine with a suction cup mount to the right of my rear view mirror, and used a bicycle tire lever (can also use a flat head screw driver with electrical tape over the end) to hide the wire in my headliner, down the A-pillar, and into my fuse box so that it comes on and off automatically when I start my truck. This is an advanced method, as most people just use the supplied adapter that plugs into your cigarette lighter.

There are tons of resources online that can answer any question you have better than I possibly could. DashCamTalk and DashCamStore are both awesome resources.

G1W http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-Original-Dashboard-Dash/dp/B00FONBG1A

I have a dashcam for this reason.

EDIT: Actually, what am I doing?

If I'm going to suggest people get one, I'll tell you what I got, and why I got it.

Despite it's mixed reviews, I've had an outstanding experience with my Black Box G1W <--- this link seems to always sell legit units. I got mine Here <--- a decent number of people get fakes on here.

It's incredibly cheap. It takes microSD, up to 32GB. You can choose different resolutions, but even at the highest, it takes a while before the first video gets deleted.

And that is correct, it records in increments of a few minutes (I set mine to 3) and when it fills up, it just deletes the oldest video first, and will continue to do so.

Video quality is great in daytime, and ok at night. It will pick up a license plate that your headlights shine on, anyway. I wouldn't expect much better unless you get a very expensive dashcam though.

It is powered via USB. I went ahead and purchased this to facilitate all my cellphone charging and dashcam needs.

I've been using it for half-a-year now. I've taken it home and had fun watching some random drives I've done. It can pick up sound, but if you are like me, and have your windows down a lot, I will tell you, you will mostly just hear wind/static or your music sounding way louder than everything else.

Might be worth leaving on if someone shouts at you from another car, but for the most part, not great audio pickup.

The quality control seems low, as you can see people get DOA units. But the price is so low. The next best thing is $200. You could buy three, and still have saved money. I've had no issues with mine yet, and the added comfort I get from knowing what is happening around me is being documented is entirely worth the price. I'm even thinking of setting one up for the back window too.

I hope this advice helps someone. If you have any questions, I'll try to answer them.

Out of curiosity, what's your monthly auto premium?

Oh and P.S. buy a fucking dash cam

I bought this one but /r/dashcam recommends this one

The G1W it's one of the cheapest cams but I've had it for almost two years with no problems running off a power magic pro.

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-Original-Dashboard-Dash/dp/B00FONBG1A

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-Original-Dashboard-Dash/dp/B00FONBG1A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482962524&sr=8-1&keywords=g1w

This won't help with your current situation but if there is a lot of accident fraud that occurs in your area get a dashcam. Below is a link for a nice cheap one that takes good 1080p video. I used the G1W for a long time until I bought myself a better one with GPS. If you need any help with it feel free to message me. http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-Original-Dashboard-Dash/dp/B00FONBG1A

I bought the Black Box G1W-C dash cam, and put this MicroSD card into it. If you don't live in a climate where it ever gets very hot (like Southern California, where I live), you can get the regular G1W version, which is cheaper since it uses a battery rather than a capacitor (capacitors are more heat-resistant). Both versions need to stay plugged in to your lighter socket at all times, though, since even the battery version only lasts 5-10 minutes without external power.

It's too large to fit behind the rear view mirror on my Prius C, so I put it in the upper-right corner of my windshield, and aim is slightly to the left so it catches my entire front view. The suction cup that attaches it to the glass is very sturdy.

I've been pretty happy with the overall recording quality (license plates are clearly legible in the day, though you need to be pretty close at night), and it acts as a MicroSD card reader when you plug it into the USB on your computer, so I didn't need to buy a reader to be able to export the videos. And you can directly play back the videos on the device itself.

Standard electronics disclaimer, but http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FONBG1A that one gets mentioned most every time the topic comes up. There was a video up of a guy reviewing it which I found pretty impressive, maybe YouTube it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FONBG1A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Just switch off motion sensor and infared. Get a 32 gb microsd card (4 or 10 series). I set it up for 720p and I think 60 fps. Set it so that it dumps files every 5 or 10 mins. It turns on whenever the car starts up and shuts down whenever the car does. After a while you forget it's there. For the price, it's a worthwhile investment. My barber told me a story of being a victim of an insurance scam. That's what got me started down this road. Hopefully I'll never need it. Best case, I can use it to help someone else. Oh, and the video clips overlap each other, so there is no loss of video.

I use this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FONBG1A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and I purchased a 32gb micro sd card. It records on 3, 5, or 10 min cycles until the card is full, then starts writing over the oldest bits. Stores roughly the last 5 hours of driving. I use it plugged into a 12volt that comes on when I start the car and the camera comes on and starts recording and stops about 30 sec after the key is off. Takes a great video, with or without sound. No issues at all.

Black Box G1W - $65.95 I have mine mounted underneath my rear view mirror and I can't see it while I am driving.

You have to be careful with the SD card though, this is the one I am currently using

Here I have been asked before. Here is the link to Amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FONBG1A?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01

Here are two comment strings from it:
First : https://www.reddit.com/r/Miami/comments/3lcsty/dashcam_owners_recommend_some_dashcams/cv5klsg
Second : https://www.reddit.com/r/Miami/comments/3swppm/this_is_why_i_drive_in_the_middle_lanes_at_the/cx13fw9

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FONBG1A

Hmm looks like mine, is it this one? Surprised it actually has a battery, mine can't even stay on for the few seconds between sitting with the ignition on to engine on. I have to start the engine immediately for it to stay on.
Do you think it was due to it being in direct sunlight?

gotta be kinda careful, but even some of the cheap amazon ones are fine, this is what inspired my purchase.

Video

Camera in Question

This one: http://amzn.com/B00FONBG1A

It's cheap but does the trick.

That's why I have one of these

I just got a dedicated Bluetooth cassette tape: https://www.amazon.com/ION-Audio-Cassette-Adapter-Bluetooth/dp/B00I3YLHAC

It's awesome that you don't even know it's there and the battery lasts like 1.5 months.

https://smile.amazon.com/ION-Audio-Cassette-Adapter-Bluetooth/dp/B00I3YLHAC
Works great, just gotta keep noise going through it if you're in a ford or it will start auto-seeking.

FM transmistters are garbage. However, I swear by this; a bluetooth casette adapter.

You could always use a wired one; but I've had little luck with those.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I3YLHAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xLi8AbDJ44H6A

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-G1W-C-Capacitor-Dashboard/dp/B00MIO2KRC?ie=UTF8&keywords=g1wc&qid=1465447504&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

$58 on amazon. This one is usually regarded as the best bang for your buck. I think I got mine for $42 from a sale on some site (gearbest i think it was). Just do some research on how to identify fakes (there are some fakes going around).

This: DASHCAM

I've got this one:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MIO2KRC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Works well, videos are quite clear, menus are a bit confusing, but once you have it up and running, it just works.

Here's a sample video. I've since turned off audio recording since I guess that could technically get a video thrown out in court if it ever came to that if you catch, say, the person you hit on audio, since CA is a 2-party consent state, because they didn't consent to having their audio recorded, it could get tossed.

https://youtu.be/WtKIS0mJGIg?t=1m58s
This is at the 720 setting, I think it can record 1080, but don't see the need.

I have a 2010 as well and it has an aux input port in the center console between the two front seats. It's towards the back. I got this for mine and it works great:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RH29CJO/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_s_awdm_5F6Lxb4524GZA

Or you can just use an aux cable.

I have this. It works unbelievably well.

Yep, I have a nifty $20 Bluetooth adapter for my old car and it works very very well. My phone always connects as soon as I turn on the car. I do recommend getting the anti-feedback ground loop noise isolator thingy if you're using an aux port, though.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X528FNE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just bought this after a recommendation from some of the ice sheet videos people were posting a few weeks ago after that last snow storm. You will need to buy a memory card for it

This is the one I have

I've got it tucked up as high as I can get it while still being able to remove it off of its bracket if I need to. It sits behind/in front of (however you look at it) the rear view mirror. I'm constantly going through security checkpoints because of my job and it's hardly ever noticed. I think it's been spotted and mentioned twice in the year I've had it.

What's your range? I purchased this dashcam 2 years ago, and it's been continuing to work great for me. It has excellent video quality, is low profile (reduces risk of theft and people spotting it) and is easy to install. Honestly it gives me such peace of mind that I know that if I'm in an accident, I can prove everything I say.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X528FNE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I have this one in my outback on the passenger side right next to the eyesight. I cant even see it while driving. The adhesive strip for the cables are not as good as the mount adhesive but it came with an orange pokie thing for cable routing.

I use this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X528FNE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Rexing V1 Car Dash Cam

This is what I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X528FNE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X528FNE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


That's the one I got.

This is probably what's commonly known as ground loop. This is caused by electricity going in a loop within your setup. Crossing wires such as power wires and speaker wires, coming in and our of your wall socket, computer, and everything plugged in together, will cause this to happen and does not necessarily persist only within your blue yeti, especially because you mute it and it still happens. You may have introduced new wires or devices that brought more electricity into the mix, causing this ground loop. Best thing to do would be to unplug devices individually from your setup until it disappears, and then you'll know the culprit. This can be fixed by using a ground loop isolator (hum/noise isolator), or by painstakingly going through your setup to find the culprit, keeping wires as uncrossed as possible, and with a lot of luck.

I personally solved mine with 3 of these and possibly even this if it applies to you. Good luck

This fixed my mic buzzing issue when I had my remote plugged in so maybe it could help you. So long as your headset is a 3.5mm one of course.

They are the Eris E5 and they don't have a hiss problem. They used to buzz when I plugged them straight into my motherboard with a RCA to 3.5mm cable without a ground loop isolator. Now I have them go into a schiit modi 2 and have no problems. If you want to use your motherboard, I recommend using a group loop isolator like this: https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_bs_t_1/143-9505965-6019445?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ZMDDYNKJQDPAEJ0408G9

It's called a ground loop and happens on many vehicles. Easiest fix is to use a ground loop isolator like this one.

https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Hands-Free-Bluetooth-CarAudio-Connect/dp/B004CLYJ2I

I used this guy for that and it was great. I stuck the little puck over the cigarette lighter hole and ran the wiring under the console and up into the storage compartment to connect to the 12V and aux there. You'll need a ground loop isolator as well otherwise as you RWC you'll hear alternator whine, something like

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/

https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_bs_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=MM8GECEJXRRXZ3X7MZS6

I've been trying to get a similar solution but between two PC's. I'm not a streamer, I just want to listen to a feed both and adjust the volume as needed. I bought a Rolls MiniMixer II which does the job.

​

I use Line out 3.5 to RCA into the a pair of line ins into the MiniMixer - then from the line out into a headphone amp to push the feed into my headphones. I put a ground loop isolator to minimize hiss.

​

I've been happy so far, but I'm wondering if there is a better solution.

You can get an inexpensive audio noise isolation transformer, like this one, I had noise from my laptop to my stereo and the audio isolation transformer eliminated all of it. It's a classic ground loop issue that causes the noise.

https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_10?crid=2BS28TS3ILMCS&keywords=audio+isolation+transformer&qid=1571058517&sprefix=audio+isolation%2Caps%2C199&sr=8-10

You, my friend, have a ground loop problem. When you touch the connector, you are grounding the signal.

Have a look at this

https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1502935646&sr=8-4&keywords=3.5mm+ground+loop+isolator

Because the Switch is technically charging while docked, and you have an auxiliary coming out if it, you will get that buzzing sound. Notice that when you undock it, the buzzing sound goes away.

It's the same thing that some people go through when charging their phones in a car at the same time they have an aux plugged in, they get the buzzing sound(only in certain cars).

Your best bet, if you don't mind paying, is to get a Ground Loop Noise Islolator. Here is one that I found. Unfortunately, your speaker needs to have an aux input or this will be useless to you :/. I'm looking to buy this later this week, as my monitor doesn't have speakers, but I do have speakers on my desk that have an aux input. Good Luck!!!

Yep, I have an idea if you're willing to spend $8 to rule it out.

You need to purchase a Ground Loop Noise Isolator which you can then try with each of your various devices.

If none of them exhibit static at that point, then you've determined that indeed there is some faulty grounding or shielding in the components of the phone. At that point it's time for a return to Google if you can under warranty.

If you don't have static with the one pair of headphones that tells me the components are solid in that pair. The other components may be the weak link but you need to rule out the phone first.

The ground loop noise isolator also has self evident uses wherever else you may have this problem. I use one in my car for example.

Good luck.

I tried all kinds of things recommended here and in the wiki. Could never get USB audio to work properly or finding settings that made the onboard audio bearable.

Ultimately ended up buying this $8 in-line ground loop noise isolator and I couldn't be happier. It works - no more noise! And no config files to dig through :)

A simple way, a solution I am using is connecting the piano headphone audio output to your computer audio input with a male to male audio aux cable https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00NO73MUQ and then set up audio playback in your sound settings https://imgur.com/a/T0Qxbfo.

Now you are able to listen to the piano and computer sound with your default pc audio output. If you set the audio input you used for your piano in discord, your friends can listen to the piano and you can hear their reactions. But because the piano is a different audio input you can't talk to them and you have to switch your audio input back to your mic to talk to them again.

If you get a lot of static noise while the piano is connected it very likely that a ground loop noise isolator will help. (I use a ground loop isolator and I have a roland fp 10. I still get static noise only when the piano is turned off because the power cable is still plugged in. I usually mute the sound in the volume mixer on my pc)

I used this setup to play the audio from my nintendo switch through the pc and listen to both my pc sound(mainly discord while playing smash) and switch sound on my headphones.

To go even further you can install a virtual audio cable https://www.vb-audio.com/Cable/ and route your mic and piano audio through the same audio line and playback this audio source to listen to the piano through your default audio output. A big drawback I noticed is that the music is very delayed this way and you hear your voice delayed which is messing with your brain a lot.

I hope that helped. I'm sure there are other solutions with audio interfaces, audio mixers or with midi. This is just a cheap solution which works for me.

https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1479174083&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=ground+loop+isolator&psc=1

Im pretty sure ground loop isolation is going to be the right answer. EDIT - especially since you say it works fine with headphones

​

Here's another one that works well and is cheap:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/

You have a ground loop problem, get a $10 isolator.

Here's the one I have:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/

People telling you this makes no sense don't realize ("why not just use docked hdmi audio...") that you might prefer undocked play in your living room + big sound, even more so when zelda makes me feel like i'm going deaf while using headphones

Ground loop isolator.

That's the exact one I picked up for a similar situation. Works pretty well.

Spy Tec A119 1440p Car Dash Camera

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HMZVYLY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_r5vWZAafqNnbN

This was recommended by /r/dashcam

What are you waiting for?

https://www.amazon.com/SpyTec-A119-1440p-Dash-Camera/dp/B01HMZVYLY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469044129&sr=8-1&keywords=A119

I have the A118C installed, and it's more than adequate for protecting my ass in situations like this. More than that, it's discrete, so a person walking by is unlikely to spot it at first glance.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XNSDRW8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523590636&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=roav+dash+cam&dpPl=1&dpID=41MpdRpLlHL&ref=plSrch

Here you go. It has a screen, but is very discrete. The screen turns off after a preset amount of time.

They're called dashcams. I have this one but the glue holding the touch screen pretty much melted off during the summer. It starts recording when it senses your car shaking. Still works, but uploading my videos to my phone is a total bitch to do. Wouldn't recommend this one. Try checking out /r/dashcam for some good recs.

What I use

I installed this one off Amazon into my wife's car about a year ago. It's got a capacsitor instead of a battery. They're better at handling the heat. It stays in the car full time and haven't had a problem yet. Really easy to self install and looks good.

I have a Rexing V1 that works pretty well (there are some newer, fancier models as well). 1080p video and 170 degree field of view with file lengths of 3, 5, or 10 minutes. Auto locks video file if impact is detected and has a button that you can push to manually save a file. Once the card is out of space, it will overwrite the oldest files. If you look in my post history you'll see a question I had about a mounting issue, but it was easily resolved and is working fine now, so I have no complaints.

I have a friend with an AUKEY. The AUKEY camera has a motion detection feature that can activate the camera when the vehicle is off which could be a benefit if someone approached you at a gas station while filling up or when you're walking up to your car from a building. r/dashcams is a good resource for reviews/opinions and features of different ones.

I got this one: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B072FGL63X/

This is one of the recommended models on /r/Dashcam

Not a dash cam expert but this seems like a pretty good deal. About 3 1/2 hrs left on it. https://www.amazon.com/N2-Pro-Infrared-1920x1080P-2560x1440P/dp/B0742J69SQ?ref_=Oct_DLandingS_PC_b5c85f24_0&smid=A1TZNKUKE5JK9T

It’s on newegg too, Amazon is just more accessible on my phone. This is the one I have. Only criticism is that the ball bering that lets you adjust the angle loosens over time. There are fixes online though. Here’s what I use:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0742J69SQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apii-ikGDbKY1BPHM

Yea definitely going to get a dash cam. Do you have a specific rec? I was looking at this one:
Vantrue N2 Pro Uber Dual Dash Cam Dual https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0742J69SQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SfrTBbJKRTSZR

VIOFO Compact A119 V2 (New A119G 2018 Stock) + EVA Foam, 1440p DashCam (V2 GPS Mount Included! Quick Eject) Optional A11CPL (CPL) not Included. (OCD Tronic Certified) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M28B92C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UAlxCbAHAZXFY

I got it with the polarized CFL lens

Anker dashcam

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06XNSDRW8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_N-8CzbWADV2DR

Houston here. Two years strong with the ROAV C1

It never leaves my windshield

This is the dashcam I bought: Roav by Anker DashCam C1, Car Recorder with Sony Sensor, 1080P FHD, 4-Lane Wide-Angle View Lens, Built-in WiFi with APP, G-Sensor, WDR, Loop Recording, Night Mode, Parking Mode [Upgraded Version] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XNSDRW8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RwSNBb4TJVK5Z

VIOFO Compact A119 V2

I got this one on the recommendation of a coworker who drove across country with it, I have had it for a few months now and it seems perfect.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M28B92C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I had The Dashcam Store in Austin TX hard wire install it, they needed a special wiring kit and $100. It looks much better than the wire running around the car.

Compré la más popular en /r/Dashcam – VIOFO A119 v2 más la lente polarizada para no grabar la reflexión del interior de auto y microSD de alta resistencia (por las temperaturas dentro del auto). La uso en el modo 1080p 30fps y la calidad de videos es super buena durante el día – puedo ver todos los números en las placas de otros autos.

I use this guy, which I'd say is the best value for $80. Sample video 1, sample video 2. The first is in semi-low light, the second in full daylight. And yeah I got the guy's plate in the second one (plates are easy to read in daylight, in low light / at night only really readable if the car is right in front of you).

If you are new and overwhelmed you should check out dashcamtalk.com and look at their recommended devices. I have the A118C ("C" means it has a capacitor rather than a battery - I wouldn't bother with battery ones as they have lifespan issues) as it is a lot less conspicuous. Recommendation depends on your budget, but my budget preference is the A118C, you can get it off foxoffer on eBay for a bit cheaper than amazon.ca. Other sellers may give you a different build which has some audio issues. All versions should be able to take the firmware updates that are listed on dashcamtalk.

• Source for a good ebay seller of the A118C (~$85)
  
• Amazon source for the A118C ($100)
  
  If you have a much higher budget and want/need better performance, especially at night, then you can go with the Street Guardian SG9665GC which has the same body style but a sony sensor, making it way better at night. Available on amazon here.
  

FWIW I highly recommend https://www.amazon.com/Spy-Tec-A118-C-Capacitor-Dashboard/dp/B00SK8B47W. Make sure you buy from Spy Tec as there are fakes out there and Spy Tec is 100% legit. I used to use a "black box" camera, but they are hit and miss with bunches of fakes.

Reposting an old comment that I had made a while back about the dashcam I have. It's less than half the price ad the one OP linked, and is a lot less obnoxious. I highly recommend it.

I have this Spytec 118-C and am extremely happy with it.

• Video quality is 100% awesome in day and night.
  
• You just leave it plugged into the cigarette lighter and it starts recording automatically when your car starts. Never have to mess with it. They make a hard wire kit you can purchase as well, if you want a cleaner install.
  
• It records to a micro SD card and continuously overwrites video (except for any saved video). There is a little a button on it that you can press and it will save the last few minutes so it doesn't overwrite it.
  
• It auto-detects if you get in a collision and saves the video for you.
  
  The SD card I use is a 32 GB Class 10 one. I tried using a lower class, but it had issues because the card wasn't fast enough.
  
  The "C" version of this camera (the one I linked to) has a capacitor instead of a battery so you don't need to worry about it getting too hot and exploding or whatever if it gets super hot in your car. I think places where it's cold should get the other one? Do some research.

I left my A118 plugged in for ten days in January in Canada while I was on vacation - car started fine when I got back.

If you were to drop the WiFi requirement (and not many people use it anyway) you could get 2 really good dashcams and put one in the front and one in the back, that's what a lot of people are doing these days.

The dashcam I am thinking about is the Viofo A118C model which is a small, discreet little camera that delivers high definition video at 1080P. It is very easy to install and very easy to take off and put back on anytime you want to take the camera into the house.

Here is a sample from my A118C https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yfojMN_BCWU

and here is a link to a reliable seller https://www.amazon.com/Spy-Tec-A118-C-Capacitor-Dashboard/dp/B00SK8B47W/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1479575031&sr=1-1&keywords=spytec+a118c+dash+cam

This one is only front facing, but I've had zero troubles with it:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SK8B47W/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just make sure it's capacitor based and it should hold up to the heat fine.

I got this one. I think a bit more unobtrusive than others. I mounted it on my motorcycle, works great.

It's really really rough man, I feel like moron drivers are almost attracted to the car too. Just yesterday I was stuck in front of this guy who I could see in my rearview mirror texting and driving. He had to slam on his brakes FOUR times before I finally got a chance to get in the next lane and get out of his way.

Oh and definitely definitely DEFINITELY get a camera. I found this one on Amazon to be one of the cheapest yet high quality cameras around. I paid 150 for it but right now it's only 99 for an easy to install, high quality camera.

https://www.amazon.com/V1-Dashboard-Recorder-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B00X528FNE/ref=sr_1_3?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1524093640&sr=1-3&keywords=dash+cam

I have the Rexing dash cam and i love it. Perfectly clear 1080p quality and low profile

This is the one I have, looks like full price is $99.

The quality is good but depending on how far away the car is/lighting it might not grab the plate. Rexing has a 4K model but not sure how the quality is with that one. If you leave the mic on, I always make it a point to read the plate out loud so I have it recorded.

I got the one linked below. It only takes max of a 32GB micro sd, but it'll record 7 hrs at 1080 or about 15 hrs at 720. I got a fuse jumper and ran the cord up my pillar cover from the interior fuse box and just popped it up the front lip of my headliner. This dash cam is great for how cheap it is.

http://www.amazon.com/Rexing-Dashboard-Recorder-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B00X528FNE/ref=sr_1_4?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1462365579&sr=1-4&keywords=dash+cam

It's a rexing v1. Had it about two years and I would recommend it, the only issue I've had is likely due to my own laziness. The manual states you need to reformat the sd card once a month. I don't always do that and have had some videos come up with errors because of it.

Looks like they have a new version with some new features now: https://www.amazon.com/Rexing-Dashboard-Recorder-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B00X528FNE/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=rexing+dash+cam&qid=1567164656&s=gateway&sr=8-4

I did some in depth research on it a year ago when shopping. Here are the 2 best options out there (cheap and expensive choices)

1 Expensive option. It is nice because it connects to your phone, so you can download/view the video immediately...comes with a "rear" camera that you can install, and all works on Sony technology.

2 Cheap Option This is the one I have, and I like it a lot. It has the best reviews on Amazon, along with video reviews on YT.

This guy has some great reviews on his YT channel

Let me know if you have any specific questions.

I use this one, there's a 4k one now for $30 more

Congrats on your first taco! I just purchased the same one about a month ago and am loving it. I definitely think getting a dash cam is a smart decision for any car, here is my suggestion:

Rexing V1 Car Dash Cam 2.4" LCD FHD 1080p 170 Degree Wide Angle Dashboard Camera Recorder with Sony Exmor Video Sensor, G-Sensor, WDR, Loop Recording https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X528FNE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Q5KUBbDDNTXT0

This dashcam ticks all the marks I was looking for (1080p, wide angle, auto on, loop recording) and I think it is reasonably priced compared to the other options with similar specs. Note that you will need your own micro SD card but 8gb should be enough since in the case of an accident you really only need like 2-3 minutes recorded at max.

Unfortunately it will not fit into the GoPro mount out of the box (I honestly don't think there are any on the market that do). But I was able to buy a GoPro mounting kit for around $15 and then used a couple simple tools (hacksaw, sandpaper, epoxy) to Frankenstein a mount using the parts that come with the camera and it works great! If you are really interested I can take and share some pics of the mount I was able to work out.

Anyway hope this helps! Cheers.

Most cameras have a small display screen, well at least mine does. Your able to replay back video, save videos as your driving by pressing a button, also take pictures with it if your involved in a accident. Just pop it off and it has a battery to do as you need for your records. I got mine off amazon for like 100$ and it has recorded bad drivers which none have hot me yet.

Link: Rexing V1 Car Dash Cam 2.4" LCD FHD 1080p 170 Degree Wide Angle Dashboard Camera Recorder with Sony Exmor Video Sensor, G-Sensor, WDR, Loop Recording https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X528FNE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Pje7BbB16AT8R

That's why I keep one of these in my car for just such occassions: https://www.amazon.com/Rexing-Dashboard-Recorder-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B00X528FNE

Model of? Dash Cam? I have this one (https://www.amazon.com/Rexing-Dashboard-Recorder-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B00X528FNE), there's different versions/models from them. But I just wanted something basic and didn't want to spend a lot in case it turned out to be crap. Then you can get these https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-Add-circuit-Adapter/dp/B01DYQM6EO and tap into a fuse if you don't have a free/open one.

https://www.amazon.com/V1-Dashboard-Recorder-G-Sensor-Detection/dp/B00X528FNE/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1448255017&sr=1-4&keywords=dash+cam I got this one less than a year ago. Excellent video quality. My only gripe is that the adhesive that attaches part of the connector piece that holds the dash cam to the window melts in any temperature above 80 degrees, causing it to fall. I finally superglued the connector to the dash cam clip and it stays perfectly in 100+ degree weather.

get 5 dashcams and put them in your car out each window and 1 pointed to the sky above the car. then go driving around the area and the next time this happens check out the video. maybe you will spot a UFO. then post the video here.

https://www.amazon.com/V1-Dashboard-Recorder-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B00X528FNE

Any dashcam worth calling itself a dashcam does the automatic recording.

This is the one I use in my main vehicle: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X528FNE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I’d go with this one over the one OP posted. link here

It’s similar form factor but full 60FPS at a higher resolution for negligible cost. I’ve had mine six months and I’ve already turned the video into evidence twice (once for a hit and run and once for some teens robbing and assaulting a homeless guy).

Heat definitely maters. I too live in California and was given a YI dashcam for Christmas. Good quality video, ok plastic housing and was fairly cheap, only $50. But about 8 months in the battery bulged and pretty much ruined the camera. YI sent me a new one since it was under warranty, but I still wouldn’t recommend it. Now one that I can say is good is the A119 V2 .

Man, that sub is all over the place. The sidebar recommendations are pretty outdated as well.

Flipflopping between this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072LYW3KM

and this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X528FNE

Any thoughts or opinions?

this one is what I use and it's solid.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X528FNE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've got this one and it works pretty well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X528FNE/

This is the one that I have in my car, but there are other cheaper options that should work pretty well also. You can get a perfectly decent one for $50 or even less. The cheaper ones just tend to be a bit more unreliable.

You can try using a Ground Loop Noise Isolator but YMMV.

It sounds like some sort of interference during calls through the aux cable when in calls.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/

Here's one for an example. It's fairly cheap

Is this one good?

https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1519161873&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=ground+loop+isolator&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2vbGAb9A0A74S

Get this to get rid of the noice

You want a ground loop isolator plugged into the switch, then run your cable from it to the PC.

That will get rid of the interference.

you could also try a ground loop isolator for your cable.

https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/

It is a ground loop that causes that. Unfortunately most dual power USB chargers will do this, you also will find it on Battery powered Bluetooth speakers where you use the charging port to power a Chromecast audio.

You'll need something like this

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0037NYYFY/ref=pd_aw_sim_23_of_7?ie=UTF8&dpID=31qDQq0hciL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_SL500_SR100%2C100_&refRID=HZZE741Z6HW2130E4RWM

Edit: I have not personally tried the Kensington one. I couldn't find the one that I have on the Amazon UK site.
You may find it on eBay. Here it is:

http://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-System-Stereo/dp/B019393MV2

First, you probably don't need the gain set to 10 on the monitors. Try reducing it to 0, set the PC to 100% and then slowly increase the gain on the monitors to about as loud as you would ever want it. This helps attenuate any noise induced into the signal picked up along the way.

Next, try plugging the monitors into the same power strip as the PC to reduce any ground potential between the devices.

Finally, if the above did not help enough you will want to isolate the ground between the two devices. The cheapest way to do this safely is with a line level isolator like this. They however have been known to affect the sound quality a bit since they add a cheap transformer in the signal path to block any DC on the line.

I believe you need feedback loop isolation. I had to use this in my car with a USB powered 3.5 Bluetooth audio dongle to enable wireless music in my car. I was getting alternator whine through my speakers until i used this device.


http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2


I would also try to plug in the USB on the speakers to a USB ac outlet and see if you get the same feedback. It would be a good way to know wihtout having to buy something (assuming you already have an AC USB adapter).

> get a high pitched noise from interference

https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2

bam

A ground loop isolator should be able to fix that for you. Just plug it in between the aux connection and your PC.

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zGQDDb98BYBZN

You could try using a ground loop maybe. I had a weird static sound with my previous audio setup and this fixed it for me - https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2

What about something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-System-Stereo/dp/B019393MV2/ref=pd_sbs_263_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=31y3DuTuxRL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1NN35QRAV313PXQ3AADG

Hey, I've had the same problem with this phone and others. If I use the aux out on the dock without power I get fine sound, but when I plug it in the quality drops. If I charge with the port on the phone the audio is better. Apparently, a ground loop isolater can fix the issue, but I haven't tried. If you use the dock a lot, it might be worth it to try the isolater.

Get this:

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IPTqzbDVJSRER

I got it for my car to get rid of the static

Analog jacks almost always have some noise, especially if the gain (master volume) is turned all the way up on the computer. Try some USB or Bluetooth headphones, you'll never go back.

If you have to stick with analog headphones, you might consider a ground loop isolator.
https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1497811812&sr=8-3&keywords=ground+loop+isolator

I HAVE THE SOLUTION


https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542998101&sr=8-3&keywords=ground+loop+isolator


2005 cooper s, r53, 70k miles.
Replaced my oem aux cable, with another oem (through from ebay) because my original one developed a short and would cut left audio out completely, super annoying.


I unplugged the old, plugged in the new and it showed up just fine. Tested it with music and all good. Put everything back together and drove to cumbys and it worked. Next morning, start navigation and music all good, then go to plug my phone into power and the aux disconnects. I almost always have my phone plugged in when in the car, so the aux connection was really almost never on. searched around on nam, or asked fbook forum and discovered someone else who had similar problem with the aux magically disappearing.


Something with the ground for the radio and the cig lighter being on the same circuit, or idk. But i tested it again knowing what to look for and yeah, everytime i plugged my phone into power (not just the cig lighter, but the plug into my phone) the aux would disappear from the radio options.


adding a ground loop isolator to the aux cable completely fixed it for me.

You want the USB and optical cable from the mixamp to go to your Xbox. Configure the mixamp first with the mixamp plugged in via USB to the PC and make it so the stream port only outputs the party chat.

Once configure plug the USB back into the Xbox. Then you want a cable going from the headphone or out audio port on your PC into the aux port on the mixamp.

This will give you Xbox audio and party chat output to your capture card while also allowing you to hear PC audio.

You may have to get a ground loop isolator for the aux cable though as you may get a humming noise Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

You either need a ground loop isolator, or a way to capture the audio from the HDMI feed.

I have 3 boutiques on a hub, I use these to eliminate noise. They work perfectly.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wlV6BbMD2CMZ8

I used this one so it'll all fit in the center consol.

https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_3

Car Charger, Maxboost 4.8A/24W 2 USB Smart Port Charger [Black] $7.99

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ISGCAJM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) $9.69

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bluetooth Adapter Receiver,URANT Car Kit Mini USB Wireless Audio Adapter Bluetooth Music Receiver & Adapter Home/Car Phone iPhone Stereo Speakers Headphones Car (AUX in) Music Sound System $10.97

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LFWM8G9/ref=dp_prsubs_1

​

had this set up for years until I got a car that had a bluetooth stereo. quality was pretty good all things considered - the ground loop Isolator helped tremendously.

>So, it should look like this?

Yes.

>My question is, will this play Switch and PS4 audio? They already play through monitor speakers, so is it as easy as putting 3.5mm to RCA in monitor to Mixer or do they each individually need to go to the Mixer?

The speakers should mute when the line out is used.

>Also, would a ground loop like this work if plugged into the monitor and then have the 3.5mm to RCA plugged into this to eliminate buzzing noise?

You shouldn't need that.

You might be able to get a cheap ground loop isolator on Amazon that would fix the issue, like this

If there is an amount of static being picked up, I would recommend buying a ground loop isolator. This is what I have for my setup: https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2

>Shouldn't wireless audio be noise free? I figure that it should be immune to noise since the audio is digital.

No! You might wanna google that... TL;DR: Wireless=Interference=Noise

And no, you don't need a mixer board. Since i'm assuming you're using a pc/mac, an external sound card will do.
You might wanna troubleshoot first before making any kind of purchase. You can start by plugin the monitors in different sockets around the house, or taking the monitors to a friends house and see if the noise persists. If it does, this might help: https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=lp_10981591_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1500471154&sr=1-1

My recommendation would be an external soundcard with balanced outputs (~$150-$200)

We're pretty close to AptX HD car adapters being a reality, so I'd say wait a bit. If you must have one now, there are quite a few regular AptX ones on the market. Just look for one that has a USB type A plug rather than a built in car charger plug. Much better to use your own charger in the car to get fast charge, more than 1 slot, etc.

Something like this. This specific ones comes with a 3 slot charger, which I guess is cool if you don't care about fast charging. My car has 2 power plugs so it'd be great for me and leave room to hook up a dashcam using one of the other slots on the charger, and use my other plug for my phone fast charger.

But still, always get a ground loop isolator. They're usually under $10 and completely eliminate electronic whine. Like this.

Sounds like bad ground isolation. You either need a better 3.5 cable, or an isolator like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2

If your playing music through an aux cord while having the AMP charging it will make a hissing static noise. I've had that whenever I charged my phone and had my aux cord in at the same time I solved that issue a while back by buying a ground loop noise isolator off Amazon. Here's a link to the one I bought Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable.

I had a similar issue when connecting my Nintendo Switch to my PC monitor where there was an odd static/buzzing noise. I used a ground loop isolator which fixed it. You may also try using the Line-In audio port of your PC if it has one as well and see if that fixes anything.

yea buy this

Did you try getting a ground loop isolator?

https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2

I use one of these and I've never had any issues with noise. it will lower the volume a bit though.

You could also get one for the 1/4in jack instead, mine was $8 on amazon and works great:
https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=pd_aw_lpo_107_bs_tr_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=G2TS68BSH7H411W1NAR9

try one of these between your dac and amp

https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1527127037&sr=8-3&keywords=ground+noise

also the hum you hear when touching the barrel jack is normal.

This thing fixed my OP-1 Noise problems. https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2

I run the exact same setup. For some reason an amp causes a lot of static on the mic.

Something like this can help. Have it connected between your cans and your amp. It will reduce the volume output, but helps solve the static issue. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Others have suggested this one in another thread. I also get that darn humming as well, but it's only when my switch is charging.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 should eliminate buzzing suggested by /u/unpolarizer

ground loop buzz. usually this will solve it

no worries. I will say that this "issue" made me rethink my approach and I ended up routing all my outputs (via 3.5mm outs and 1 optical audio out) with voicemeeter and hooked them up to the streaming PC individually and was able to assign all audio as separate sources (discord, game & my mic) and it made for easier on the fly adjustments on streamlabs.

Good luck! if you do need the noise loop isolator, I bought 2 of these and they worked flawlessly. I'd try without it first as maybe you'll get lucky and your line-in to line-out (pc to pc) might not have any noise issues.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A119 w/o GPS

That unit has the best imaging sensor for night you can get under $100. There are lots of units that will work well enough during the day, but at night, they pretty much become a useless potato camera. GPS model is only $10 more, but if you frequently drive above the speed limit, maybe that is not the best idea.

I've had mine since mid July when it first became available. So far, so good, despite many thousands of on / off cycles, and a subwoofer that is often shaking it a bit. That sorta ruined my last cam in less than a year...but bass, I guess.

You'll also need a microSD card ($10 for 32GB, $20 for 64GB), and if you don't want a power wire dangling somewhere, a hardwire kit to power it from your fusebox.

Nice, I think I found Spytec version by searching A119 on Amazon...kinda tempted to try it out.

https://www.amazon.com/SpyTec-A119-1440p-Dash-Camera/dp/B01HMZVYLY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468446745&sr=8-2&keywords=a119+dash+camera

There are two good ways to do this:
Option 1:
Grab yourself a set of these. https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesales-Audio-Piggyback-Cable-Female/dp/B000I94FAE/
Plug the double sided end into your source, and then feed the other end to your speakers. You'll then plug another set of RCA into the open ends on the source and send them to your Sub.
Option 2: If you don't like using the windows volume control, then you'll get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B0002J226O/
Also this: https://www.amazon.com/Link-BM105-Male-Barrel-Connectors/dp/B001NCDBEQ
The Barrel connectors will go into your source. Then plus the controller into the barrel connectors, then the piggyback cable into the other end of the controller. Then plug your RCA into backside of the Piggyback and put one set into the speakers, and one set into the sub.
Once you've chosen from the two options, you'll need to set up the speaker and the sub so the volume matches.
To do that I would turn the computer audio up to maximum. Then, turn your speakers up as loud as you would ever comfortably listen to them. Then get your subwoofer gain and crossover where you want it. You will then use your PC volume/or the control nob to control the volume of both of them. If you use the control nob, your PC volume will always be at max.
EDIT: You might also need this to get the sound from your motherboard audio out to RCA: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105597-3-Feet-Premium-Stereo/dp/B0094A1F3S/

like this?
http://www.amazon.com/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B0002J226O

I have L,R coming out of the amp, into a female 3.5mm jack.. Then I have Male 3.5mm to L,R Male going into the cable box.. Where would this plug in with my setup?

also, what about this? http://www.earphonesolutions.com/leatwivoco.html Any other cheap things like that around?

Found these two as well: not sure witch one i should go with though :/

http://www.volutone.com/CALRAD-10-105-STEREO-INLINE-LINE-LEVEL-AUDIO-ATTENUATOR-P8778.aspx

http://www.calradstore.com/10-105.html

Any headphone amp can do the job if you have one. Otherwise the Schiit sys has nice aesthetics: https://www.amazon.com/Schiit-Audio-SCH-13-Passive-Preamp/dp/B00K6Q2A4C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474215582&sr=8-1&keywords=passive+volume+control but a passive volume control such as this will work: https://www.amazon.com/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B0002J226O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1474215582&sr=8-3&keywords=passive+volume+control

Sound quality with monitors is going to be leaps and bounds better than the other two, even if they're close together.

I think one of the issues I ran into was when I had speakers connected to the subwoofer - I had no way to control the volume. besides the tiny knob on the back - which is very annoying to have to reach for every time the mood strike. It does not seem like I have an option for one of these either. Would one of these fix that? Would this control the sub and any speakers running through the sub?

The way it is now - when i turn down the volume on the receive all the speakers turn down with it - but the sub is on its own control

I wish I could use something this somehow?

Looks cheap because it is. It'll work just fine.

I bought this to do volume control PAC LC-1 Remote Amplifier Level Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002J226O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Iy0ZBbXAAZ5JG I actually attached it to the back so my kids wouldn't mess with the volume but it's great i turned it to the max then adjusted the amp to a level I thought was the threshold of loudness.

What you're looking for is an audio interface. Like /u/ANeedForUsername said, the 2i2 is very popular. I use a 2i4 myself to drive my JBL LSR305's and the sound is amazing. The scarlett has a high quality DAC, so it will deliver a better sound to both your headphones, as the JBL's.
It also enables you to use balanced cables for your 305P's, which should eliminate electrical interference. Highly recommended but it can be expensive.

If this is too expensive right now, you could go with a simple inline control for the volume control of your monitors and any 3.5mm extension cable for your headphones, plugged into the audio output of the back of your computer and attached to your desk/whatever suits you. But you'll have to switch between manually between output on your computer. This is what I did to connect my headphones before I got my Focusrite.

EDIT: The Behringer U-Phoria UMC202HD Could also be a cheap alternative, although it will be of a noticeable worse quality compared to the Focus rite.

You have several options:

1. Easy, cheapest, move on with your life
   Buy the cable sociojeje linked (or whatever one you want as long as it goes from one 3.5mm to dual mono 1/4 inch). Plug 3.5mm into soundcard/onboard audio and 1/4 inch into the inputs on each speaker. Since you want to leave the volume control on the back of the monitors in one position and never touch it again, with this setup you will be using your PC for volume control, which usually sucks.
   
   2)I want to control volume outside of windows approach
   Get an inline volume control (https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0002J226O/?coliid=I21HE0GYZHPUID&colid=1VYF10R99G2UC&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it is the cheapest one I can find). You get a 3.5mm to dual rca cable from your pc to the input on the volume control, then two rca to 1/4" from the control to the monitors. Leave windows at like 75-100% volume (you are going to have to experiment) and use the volume knob on the inline to control volume. This is also the ideal solution if you have an external DAC or buy one at some point (which you should)
   
   3)I want all the things, but dont want to spend a lot of money
   Buy this: https://www.amazon.ca/Micca-OriGen-G2-Resolution-Preamplifier/dp/B01N14SY65/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1540965426&sr=8-2&keywords=micca+origen+g2
   
   This an external DAC AND headphone amplifier in one. What makes this one special, is that you can switch between headphone out and line out (speaker) with the toggle switch at the front. This will replace your soundcard once its plugged in by USB and will also serve as your volume control. If you have headphones, it would be plugged into this as well. Cable wise, it would be USB from PC to the Dac (included with unit), then two RCA to 1/4" mono cables from the dac/headphone amp to the speakers

In my garage, I run a chromecast hooked up to this guy running a pair of 8" speakers from the 80s. :https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077Z7DBRT It's 20w and powers them just fine for the whole 2-car garage. I'm not recommending that for high volume, but it does the job. A used receiver would work really well too, they're just much larger.

​

You can get a pretty simple RCA pot volume control knob on amazon that you could use for the sub. https://www.amazon.com/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B0002J226O/

You'll need a headphone amp with preouts, a more traditional preamp, or a level controller. Schiit Magni 2 Uber or Audioengine D1, for the former. Control Freak or something like this for the latter. Or the Schiit Sys.

https://www.amazon.com/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B0002J226O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1520984402&sr=8-2&keywords=stereo+volume+control

If you are missing an optical optical cable those can be had for like 6$

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH11H38

RCA Volume control:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002J226O
(made to be mounted under desk or car dash, lable upside down on top of desk)
 
If talking purely SPDIF/Optical vs USB, optical cannot have noise caused by electrical interference of other circuits. However the DAC chip used and the circuit design on the DAC plays a factor as well. If a device has poor circuit design the power delivery could be degrading, or interference between its own left and right channels could happen.

I have no experience or knowledge of the Fiio D3, it would work but I can't tell you how well, but I would say I personally would put more down on something that feeds into a pair of 305.
 
A Micca Origen+ would work but its just the same as a DAC X6 basically.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002J226O

so between the denon and the emotiva

The simplest way is to get a passive volume control, like this one, or a higher end one, like the mackie big knob passive. I have that one and like it a lot.

A better way is a dac/amp combo like the fiio k3, schiit fulla 2, etc.

You plug the speakers into the dac output using the correct cable, set the physical volume on your speakers (I usually go around 75%) and use the volume knob on the dac/amp to adjust while listening. And being that you're using the dac instead of onboard sound, you'll probably get less noise and interference.

Get an inline rca controller like this one : PAC LC-1 Remote Amplifier Level Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002J226O/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_iFqcvb00B2SD3

(Man, this turned out a long longer than I thought it would, for relatively little content. I guess I just have a lot of feelings about audio equipment.)

I'd really recommend reading a bunch of reviews and auditioning what you can (I know that's not always practical, I sure bought mine without listening to many alternatives).

I really like the noaudiophile.com guy's reviews, though I know there are people that disagree with some of his conclusions and methods.

/r/Zeos also has a shortlist and some mini-reviews of both powered monitors and bookshelf speakers + amps, and where our experience overlaps I agree with them, so I imagine my advice in that price range would match theirs. (Though after a quick look, it seems some of them are a little out of date, with links to discontinued equipment.)

If you're willing to spend that much, I can't recommend enough making sure your speakers are properly positioned with stands (you don't have to spend much though: the noaudiophile guy uses soup cans to prop up speakers he reviews at his computer!). You may also consider rubber isolation mats.

I personally use—and very much enjoy—the JBL LSR305s, which I got for 280$ a pair, but they're usually 300$ (typically sold by the each at 150$). When I searched for that price, I found out they've just been replaced with the "305p MkII", but changes are minor and all improvements.

Studio monitors are popular for audiophile grade computer speakers because they're designed for near-field, critical listening, unlike typical bookshelf speakers.

On the other hand, they're designed for a very linear, uncolored sound. Speakers can essentially be thought of as a musical instrument, and while there are plenty of wrong ways to make them, there's no one right way. Precision is just one basis for judgment (though the one I find most soothing to go by, since it's easiest to measure).

The LSR305s specifically have been very popular on /r/audiophile, but there's also a lot of praise for the ~400$/pair Yamaha HS5s and AudioEngine A5s. I personally wouldn't bet a lot of money that I'd be able to tell a big difference between my speakers and those higher priced ones.

**

The rest of this post is just advice for if you do get a Studio Monitor. Many (including the JBLs and the Yamahas I mentioned) aren't terribly user friendly. I ran into some stumbling blocks, so I'll mention them here. They're designed to be stand-alone, giving flexibility to your recording engineer, so to run them in stereo, you'll need a way to control the volume of them together (not to mention some unusual cables/adapters, and space to plug in two things on your power strip).

Zeos recommends this line level control, which is only 10$. There's also a "passive preamp" by Nobsound on Amazon for 40$. I don't think you can do too much to mess up a stereo potentiometer with modern manufacturing, so the extra money for the nobsound one is probably just for the nice box and connectors (admittedly, I built my own passive pre-amp and spent probably too much on a stepped attenuator for it).

Obviously, you could instead control volume directly from your computer's volume control, but there's a hidden hazard there, so this is secretly the more expensive option. On nearly every computer, the built in digital-to-analog-converter (DAC) is 16-bits; turning down the volume digitally fundamentally means cutting the audio resolution your computer outputs. The way around this is a 24-bit DAC: almost all audio is recorded/produced at 16-bit resolution (it's the CD standard; but also, about the limit of detail a human can hear), so you can go to .25% volume on the computer before you touch the real data. My recommendation is the Objective Labs DAC (99$).

Some people recommend a dedicated, high quality DAC anyways for a sound system around a price point like 500$. I do own the ODAC (predecessor to the OL DAC), but for me it's almost just for peace of mind.

As a cable example: if you get JBLs and a volume control, you'll need this for computer to volume control and a pair of these for control to speakers. (Not recommendations, just top results on amazon for those types.)

PS: One thing you don't* have to worry about at all is "balanced". Most studio monitors can be run balanced, but they'll also run unbalanced just fine. You'd need a very expensive balanced DAC to make use of it, and assuming your home is not the maelstrom of EM interference a recording studio is, it just isn't necessary (it's not even "overkill", if you don't need it, balanced equipment just adds more components that could produce interference).

^(edited to correct first cable link)

Get a bass knob. I put mine in and love the ability to change it depending on the song or music type

clinometer

Removed the radio and capped it with abs plastic, fit it with a usb charger and [four of these switches in different colors] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GH1PU0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) using these housings

the switches got to [relays] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017VDI0GY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) that are powered [by this fuse box] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QMTAZ1W/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) that is mounted to the top of the OEM fuse box under the hood.

Those power my OBHS and OBA. Other two switches not in use yet, hoping for rock lights/light bar some day maybe?

Removed the old fog light switch panel, replaced with abs plastic and volume control that goes to an amp that goes to a stereo jack that i just plug into my phone for music.

Will adding this level adjuster after my phono preamp and in front of my powered speakers affect quality? I plan on adding it to my chain because each powered speaker (KRK Rokits) have their own volume control on the back of each unit which is a nuisance.

Thanks

Something like this, link courtesy of another poster upthread a ways. Put it after the preamp.

A kludgey solution for a bad situation ... I suspect those speakers are only intended for use with that DVD player which did have a volume control (and Coby stuff, sorry to say, is all crap).

If you use Amazon Prime this is under $10 and works well: https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI

Had this issue with our 09. Bought a ground loop filter off Amazon and that took care of it.

This is the one I bought (or so says my amazing order history): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAQTRI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6pzFybQ1Z9Q0D

I'm sure others like it would work.

This is the one I have. Supposedly they can reduce audio quality, some brands worse than others, but I haven't noticed any problems with that.

http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1411514213&sr=1-1&keywords=ground+loop+isolator

It's called a ground loop isolator.

no, but i know how audio systems work. ive built tube amplifiers, installed multiple stereo systems in cars before, and i'm an engineer that deals with signal processing. for what you are saying to be true, it would imply your amp in your car has more distortion than the tiny inexpensive amp in your phone. which i guess is possible if you have the shittiest amp/deck ever made. read the first sentence of the link below.

http://www.mediacollege.com/audio/howto/distortion.html

the hissing noise is a separate problem. usually due to a grounding issue. this will probably fix it.
http://www.amazon.com/PAC-Ground-Isolator-3-5-Applications/dp/B001EAQTRI#productDetails

Standard PC speakers often don't include white noise cancellation. A cheap way to kill the interference is to add a ground loop isolator.

get one of these

you guessed right, it is electrical interference. you probably already have it caused by your car's electronics and the usb cable is just a next source.

i have this one and it works great. i actually have it plugged into a bluetooth dealy since my car doesn't have bluetooth.

reviews exaggerate sound quality issues like quieter or low bass. i mean, turn it up or turn up your bass.

https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI

The way I did my setup was to run a 3.5mm aux cable from my gaming pc’s green stereo drive port on the back of the motherboard into a grounded loop noise isolator like this one to help the popping and static when transitioning from digital to analog,

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAQTRI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_sjtZBb6M2T7WA


Then I ran the 3.5mm end of the ground loop into the red microphone port on the back of my streaming pc. That way I could go into my Sound Settings and look at my recording devices and there should be a new input there from your gaming computer. Go into the properties and there should be a tick box for your streaming pc to always listen to your gaming pc and output it through your streaming pc.

That way I only had one set of speakers listening to both PCs, and I could use the new recording device as a sound input in Elgato Sound Control in OBS to stream the sound from my gaming pc and listen to it at the same time.

It might sound confusing but the cables and everything are relatively cheap.

I’m at work but if you need more help I’ll draw a layout for you later if you want.

Like this? https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI

Should i add it between the mic and the PC or the audio jack and the PC?

Does it sound anything like this?

If not, can you record it?

I suspect it's not the Sansui. The headphone out is just resistively tapped off of the speaker out. This means that you should hear the exact same thing through the speakers and the headphone jack.

Connecting the Sansui to your computer has the potential to create or reveal all sorts of interference. The above sample is from a cellphone communicating with a tower, but the computer itself is full of all sorts of noise. It could be that everything the computer attempts to record will have this problem.

Make sure you're using the 'line in' and not the 'mic' connection on the computer. Microphone inputs have a large amount of gain and this will only cause problems if the source is capable of driving line level inputs (the Sansui definitely is).

Try recording from another source, preferably something battery powered that has no wireless capability. If it's not plugged in to anything else then it cannot easily conduct interference. It can still act as an antenna for radiated interference though.

Try using an isolator to see if that helps. This will use a transformer on each channel to break the conductive path between the devices and only pass audio frequencies through. Useful for ground loops but not for radiated interference pickup (like the cellphone example).

Hope that helps.

Also here to say I'm having the same issue when using the aux cable in my car and Galaxy S7. (Just purchased 3/20)

I get static when using Maps, Google Music, and making calls (barely audible with all the static).

I have searched and come across some users recommending to go to Settings > Sounds and vibration > Sound quality and effects > [With an auxillary cable/headphone plugged in], switch UHQ upscaler from off > on. This surprisingly did the trick after I restarted I think. But now it is back to static and it's beginning to get annoying.

If you find a fix please update!

Update: Just wanted to drop by and say that I was able to fix the issue (as it stands anyhow). Taking the advice of a fellow redditor in this thread, I purchased this device and the static has ceased. Should I/you have to purchase something like this to make our brand new $600+ phone function normally? Probably not, but so far this has fixed my issue and I hope it can help someone else out there experiencing similar issues.

I helped set up a studio about 5 years back for a local community radio station and interfacing the phone line to their system was a pain.
They had a unit called a Phone hybrid, which is a unit that has an audio in(so the caller can hear you) and an Audio out(so you can hear the caller) and a connection for a landline phone. So you hook that up to your board and away you go, at least that is how it's done in radio. Here is a link to hybrids: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/buy/Telephone-Audio-Interfaces/ci/8815/N/4291085905

For your cell phone you could get a mic/headphone splitter to do the same job as the Hybrid.
(Like this one:https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Headsets-Separate-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B00Y458NA6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492535486&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=headphone+with+mic+splitter&psc=1)

The only issue is there is voltage on the mic side(to power the mic in a headset) that you need to isolate or it will damage your board.(You can use something like this to do that job. https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI)

So you would need to hook the Mic side, via your isolator, To your aux output on your board so the caller can hear the final mix audio. Then hook the headphone port to an aux/line input(the One that uses RCA or 1/4" jacks,) so that the caller can be recorded.
One other bit that I learned while setting up the radio station is you need a way to mute the caller's audio on the aux output so the caller doesn't hear them self.(It comes out as a very trippy delayed audio to the caller) Many boards have way to select what line go to your aux output, so you will just need to RTFM on that.

Anyway, I hope that input was helpful and gets you a better setup for callers.

Yup sounds like the other headset prob didn't use a common ground for the mic and headphones. It's def a ground loop though, I knew as soon as you described the noise :) Ground loop isolaters sometimes work, but it depends on the difference in potential - you can end up with some other issues if it's bad enough. You can def give one of these a try though - put it inline on your headphone connection to the dac/amp - https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI

Otherwise not much you can do short of rewiring the headset.

A ground loop isolator fixes the noise issue from your alternator.

http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI/ref=pd_sim_e_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1TJPHM76XW402XRVBWP9

Try something like this.

http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI/ref=pd_sim_422_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41blWtrwlYL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1J6KMPKFX5HNDAEDBSF2

For sure sounds like a ground loop issue then if it's happening when they're running tools. I'm not sure how to handle this for residential, I've only dealt with it in car audio.

I did have a similar issue when I used to DJ. I had a USB controller, and when I had it hooked up to my PC via USB, then connected through RCA to my receiver, I'd get a high pitched whine from it. It's because it was grounding through my PC, and my AMP, which were both grounded to each other. Some kind of weird deal, I never did figure out a good solution.

For car audio though, they make a ground loop isolator that filters out the high pitched whines. I don't see why it wouldn't work on the PC though, since it's a passive device that doesn't require external power.

https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1521724416&sr=8-17&keywords=ground+loop+isolator This is the one I have. Might be worth a shot.

This works great on my 2007 and meets my requirements: are it and forget it, fast connectivity, no batteries. It's been solid for me:

HomeSpot NFC-enabled Bluetooth Audio Receiver for Car Audio https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G57CWZ8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_S4eNwbEM1KEQH

And to avoid ground noise:

PAC SNI-1/3.5 3.5-mm Ground Loop Noise Isolator Works with iPod/Zune/iRiver and Others https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAQTRI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_Y6eNwb2BSE5ZD


Tips: don't max out your phone's volume or will cause distortion. I keep mine at 80-90% of volume. I can still use the phone with the car. I have an android phone. I connect Bluetooth phone top cast and media streaming to the adapter.

Sounds like (no pun intended) a ground loop issue. You'll need something called a "Ground Loop Isolator".

Also, check that all the devices connected to your computer that are powered from the wall are grounded. It's possible that the monitor might have a bad (or no!) grounding pin.

In order to possibly solve this, I would recommend using something like this between your monitor's audio out and your computer's line in jack.

I know this because my sister's computer had the exact same problem.

Sounds like a ground loop problem to me. Depending on how recently you've purchased the laptop, get it replaced/repaired under warranty. Otherwise, you could use a ground loop isolator to fix this.

At work I have a headset mic plugged in to both my phone and PC, and plug the phone into the PC to charge. That created a ground loop and I had to buy a group-loop isolator to remove the hiss that caused.

One of these takes care of that problem nicely.

if you're going to do this, don't forget to pick up a ground loop noise isolator it will get rid of the whirring/static noise you'll inevitably get as you drive. That's the one I used, so I can vouch for it, but there are many other ones out there. I had it paired with this on my 07 (placed it on the front of the center console a few inches under the lip) and it worked well until I switched cars

It was probably a ground loop being introduced from that power brick.

This can usually be resolved by changing the grounding of your power configuration. Sometimes swapping power strips, using two different wall outlets which are on different circuits or changing out audio cables (you may have a cable with a disconnected ground shield). To be clear, your problem is not "from" the power cable. The problem is a ground connection that is traveling through power lines and audio lines.

One time I had a problem with hooking up two different computers to the same amplified monitor speakers in a complex system, couldn't solve it and had to resort to getting this $10 ground loop isolator which fixed the problem completely.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EAQTRI

I picked up the ground loop isolator mentioned on the G5 post and it fixed all of my issues. Supposedly it's a software issue that can be fixed.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EAQTRI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You need one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EAQTRI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just bought this one and I really love it. But you likely will need to purchase a ground loop noise isolater to prevent that high-pitched wheeze you get when you plug something into your car.

Just get this. Cheap and easy.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EAQTRI/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$120 Pionner shallow sub This is a highly sensitive sub so its should sound great for your truck.
$100 Pioneer amp This is a 2 channel amp, Use this amp in bridged mode to get the full 450 watts for your sub.
$27 4 gauge amp kit

If you have aftermarket head unit with amp pre out the installation will be easier. Hope this helps

I have an extremely similar setup in my 1999 Ski Nautique, minus the tower. I would have loved help picking out equipment/installing, but didn't have any available, so had to learn as I went.

Head Unit - I basically got the older version of this. Make sure what you get has 6 pre-outs Head Unit $120

Amp - Go with a 5 channel amp to save space, I bought this one Polk 5 Channel $280

Speakers - 2 sets of these, which sound incredibly clear Polk 6.5 $250

Sub - I put together a sub from components. You will need sub, box, and grill. I'll link the sub I got but don't remember the box or grill. Went with 10 inch to save space, but it sounds great and is clear/sloud. Sub Around $120

Speaker Wire - Went with 14 guage, not sure what others would recommend here Wire $25

Amp Kit - Not sure what difference is between grades with these Kit $33

Basically, I had about the same budget, and it came to about $800-$900, I think prices have changed a bit since then.
I really went with clarity over loudness because I can't stand turning up the radio and hearing distortion, but this setup is both clear and very loud. I have gotten a lot of compliments on it.

To add tower speakers later you will probably need another amp, and maybe an alternator, not totally sure on that, if someone else has more advice.

Let me know if you have any questions, and hope this helps. Good luck!

According to this subreddit, you don't want the link posted above/below this. Oxygen free copper is the only wire to ever think of using. CarAV approved wiring harness

Also, never buy from wallmart.

I like this article. If you go sealed, it's very easy. Ported will provide more output, but you need to know exactly how long/wide your port should be for your subwoofer.

As to what to look for, with any sub and amp, RMS power is all that matters. Stick with name brands you know. Although these aren't phenomenal or anything, with your budget you'll probably be looking for Pioneer, Kicker, Kenwood, Alpine, MTX, Sony, Rockford, JL. Stay away from Boss or anything that's like Boss (designed by a 14 year old boy/only lists peak output).

Lastly, you do need wires to hook all this up. Here's an example. I would recommend that brand unless you wanted to just buy welding wire through a local electrician store (it's the same stuff but cheaper). Everyone around here would recommend 4 gauge, but if you want to do 8 gauge, it'll be perfectly fine (I doubt you're going to end up running a lot of power).

No, BOSS is not a brand you want to spend money on. They tend to make low quality products.

This kit is a little more, but it is worlds better than the Boss one:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050I6KII/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_znGTub0NAJSBX

Also, this kit comes with an 80A fuse. You will want to buy one that is around 40A. You can get one at a local auto parts store, or wherever really. They are abundant.

Here buy this: http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-KCA-Complete-Gauge-Installation/dp/B0050I6KII/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426718853&sr=8-1&keywords=knukonceptz+4+gauge

Make sure the power wire from the positive battery is fused within a foot or two of the battery. Secondly, make sure the ground or negative is to a bolt that has the paint sanded off. With the car running, check the voltage between the two points and make sure it reads around 14.3 volts to be sure you have a decent connection. Finally the thing that stores power is called a capacitor. It has it's place in certain areas of car audio, but you don't have to worry about it at this point and would advise against spending the money on one. Youtube has plenty of videos on how to properly crimp/solder your wire, as well as hook up amps, subs, etc.

That alternator is almost certainly an 80amp, which is good for something like 800 watts RMS (1100watts minus whatever your car uses). I have a car, same make, similar year.. I've got 2 12s and the front components are amped, something like 1000 watts RMS, the lights dim when I bump it hard but it's enough to rattle the trunk, vibrate the rear-view mirror and host a smallish beach party (50 people maybe?)

If you want to go full on SPL you'll need at least $500 for a new alternator... but with what you have, you could focus on sound quality, have something that sounds great and still gets loud enough to blow your eardrums out without breaking the bank

What I did:

Hand-me-down amps and subs. I'm running probably 400 watts RMS or so on the 2 subs.. yeah, really low, but you can really feel it and it shakes the hell out of the trunk. I have hearing damage from a previous system so not-insanely-loud works well for me

Per the recommendation of this sub, I skipped out on rear speakers and spent the budget on the fronts and sound deadening. This is the way to go. I bought the Morel Maximos... after reading a ton they seem like the best sounding speaker you can get under $300... and they only cost $150 for the pair. Look at the recommendations on the wiki for a good budget amp to power them. I've got ~100watts RMS to them, and they get fucking loud (and clear!)

Spend some money on sound deadening.. you'll need it. Road noise brings the signal-to-noise ratio way down, making it harder to hear your music, harder to hear details, and harder on your ears. I bought the Noico 80 mil on Amazon, $60 was enough to do both front door panels and probably will be enough for the rear too. This video gets posted a lot and will give you an idea of what you need to do. I didn't go as far as he did, but followed the concepts and it made a massive difference. Eventually I'd like to add some MLV for more sound-proofing

I come from a pro audio / studio engineering background as well.. you know the saying, spend 1/2 the budget on room treatment, that's probably about right in the car world too.

So for final budget:

$150 for Morel Maximo you'll appreciate this thread, it's an audio engineer's review of the Maximo vs several other components, this is what sold me and I love mine

$60 for Noico 80 mil sound deadener

$?? for MLV.. maybe $100?

$?? - Look on the wiki for a budget 5 channel amp... I'm running 2 amps, takes more connectors, more wire, more cost, but I already had the 2 amps. There seems to be some great amps out there now that are budget friendly, but I'm not familiar with them. Consult the wiki. You could run the components off the head unit but it wouldn't be much more to amplify them properly and it'll make a massive difference in output quality

$30 - Depending on the length of your cable run and your power requirements, you'll probably need a 4 gauge wire kit (do calculate this before buying), get the one from KnuKonceptz they're a great bang-for-buck and the cheapest wire that's actually rated for what it is. (for instance, Boss wire is thick but it's all insulation and not copper)

And for bonus, get a DSP so you can flatten out the EQ in your car.. cars are a lot harder to EQ than rooms because they have so many different nodes. Dayton is about to release theirs for $150, and if you have a calibration mic you're set, if not NADY's CM-100 is a $60 calibration mic and you'll take the car to the next level. You could keep it and re-tune on your next car. My car sounds lovely without DSP but I plan on adding it when I get some more funds... this is easy to upgrade and add later on, just pop it in the signal chain

And one last pro tip: Run your RCAs away from all power sources so you don't pick up that annoying alternator whine. I ran mine through the center of the car, but you should be able to run it on one side of the car and the amp wires on the other

Hope this helps. I'm just a musician/engineer who knows a little bit about car audio, been dipping my feet in a bit more lately, but by far an expert. There's a lot of professional car audio guys around here that can help out more if you have any more questions

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http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050I6KII/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1NLNJ4Y2QP8Z

this kit ok?

You want an amp that can deliver 500W RMS of power at 2 ohms. Like this Rockford Fosgate R500X1D.

And here's a good 4 gauge wiring kit.