(Part 2) Best data storage products according to redditors
We found 29,223 Reddit comments discussing the best data storage products. We ranked the 3,978 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
Go to Amazon and get one of the following:
Or you can spend $15 more and get twice the storage:
These are all 7200 RPM drives and are from a reputable source.
Edit: Changed 2TB WD to Black, which is 7200 RPM
This is not a sale.
The list price on Amazon is $107, which is exactly the same.
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-NAND-SATA-Internal/dp/B077SF8KMG/
The fact that you are taking some sitewide coupon and applying it to this does not make it a sale.
There's actually some good stuff in the mix:
There's a 500gb m.2 at Amazon right now for 120, I'd buy that first.
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-500GB-SSD-WDS500G2B0B/dp/B073SBX6TY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525181022&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=m.2+ssd
At that price, I would just get the
[SSD] Crucial MX500 500GB 3D NAND SATA III SSD - $114 (Lowest)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0784SLQM6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pGd-AbGGGFT2J
According to UserBenchmark, the Crucial drive is 25-30% faster.
Here are my specs! Big thanks to the people over at the AMD OSX Discord, and the guide here for a Vanilla Ryzen Hackintosh.
PCPartPicker Part List
Type|Item
:----|:----
CPU | AMD Ryzen 7 1700 3 GHz 8-Core Processor
Motherboard | Gigabyte B450 I AORUS PRO WIFI Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard
Memory | Corsair Vengeance RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory
Storage | WD Blue 1 TB M.2 SATA SSD
| ADATA SU650 960 GB 2.5" SSD
| PNY CS900 120 GB 2.5" SSD
Video Card | Gigabyte Radeon RX 580 8 GB Gaming 8G Video Card
Power Supply | Corsair SF 450 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply
Case | NCase M1 v5
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-09-04 02:05 EDT-0400
1 TB SATA SSD have been at 150ish for some time now. Patience and buy if it’s under 130
Edit: Evidence WD 1 TB Reg Price in Amazon for a few weeks now $149
Same Crucial on Amazon 159$ regular price
They were over $1000 USD for years, but in the last 3 they've been around 300 dollars.
I recently got this SSD last cyber monday for $280
Even better Sandisk 960GB SSD $164.99 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M8ABHVQ
US$ 125 buys you an 8 TB hard drive.
Buying 8 of those isn't that expensive and would allow you to store all this cp.
In the words of so many here, "Jesus Fucking Christ" is the first thing I have to say! It's so awesome to see everyone pumped up over the build. If I had known there would be so many comments, I'd have posted the pictures with some context, but I'll try and answer your questions now.
Are you posting more pictures?
Definitely! As soon as I get stuck into the meat of the build (this weekend maybe?) I'll take a few snaps during the build and the final result.
What are you going to do with this thing?
Play Minecraft on the lowest resolution possible with the particle effects and clouds turned off of course!
But seriously, there are several use cases intended for this rig, some personal, some work related:
Why four Titan X cards? Give 980 Ti some love!
Originally I considered two Titan X cards and two 980 Ti cards for this build, but that idea was discarded for a few reasons and considerations, some more logical than others:
For those asking about PALIT branded cards, they offer a reference design card for Titan X, which is fine, because most other vendors do the same. I will of course be dismantling the cards to add waterblocks to them, and possibly doing other crazy, potentially warranty-voiding overclocky things to them.
That Sandisk Ultra II..it's so peasantly compared to the 950 Pro.
I should have mentioned that I also have a 1TB 840 Evo that I'll be bringing over from my current workstation, which has a fairly negligible performance benefit over an 850 Evo and Pro in a practical setting.
The Ultra II was a Cyber Monday deal, much cheaper than an 850 Evo or Pro for reasonable performance and storage capacity, and more than enough for infrequent secondary storage.
De-ionized water, why not distilled?
I didn't list it in the pictures because it hasn't arrived yet, but I am expecting a delivery of distilled water tomorrow for filling the loop. The de-ionized water will be used to flush water blocks and radiators as it is a cheaper source of purified water to obtain here in the UK (unlike distilled water, which stores don't stock like in the US).
Biocide, coolant, anti-corrosives?
I have decided to start with distilled water and a couple of drops of Mayham's Biocide (a copper sulphate concentrate), and keep a close eye on the loop for the first few months to see how it works out, and introduce corrosion inhibitors if needed. I am fortunate that my loop mostly consists of copper, with brass and nickel plated/brass fittings, so at this point, my main concern would only be the tin/lead solder inside the radiators as being a potential corrosion hazard.
If anyone has information on corrosion inhibitor bases that can be added to water that don't contain a glycol mixture and dyes, and that are designed to protect copper/nickel/brass/tin/lead, I'd love to hear from you!
You better have awes-mazing monitors for that rig!
Baby steps...it has been five years since I built my last workstation, and everything will eventually have to be replaced, which includes five 21.5" 1080p 60Hz monitors. Replacing those is a financially crippling research project in itself, but for now, the tower is the first replacement to be dealt with.
Are you going to trick this thing out with LEDs, chrome rims and a sexy lady lounging over the case?
No, the tower isn't really all that visible in practice as it would be sitting behind a monitor (and not repositionable as the whole desk is covered in monitors!), so I did not intend on going crazy with lights, colored tubing and platinum case trim, instead directing the budget towards more practical components.
How much did the rig cost to build?
I'd better leave the number crunching to my rich daddy and his solid gold, diamond encrusted calculator.
Parts list, I demand it!
Component | Product Name | Quantity | Product Info URL
---|---|----|----
Motherboard | Asus X99-E WS | 1 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/X99-E-WS-Workstation-Motherboard-Capacitors/dp/B00NJGJJE0
Processor | Intel Core i7 5960X | 1 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Intel-Extreme-Processor-Socket-2011-V3/dp/B00N1O4RRY
Graphics Card | Palit NVIDIA GeForce GTX TITAN X | 4 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Palit-Graphics-DisplayPort-Dual-link-PCI-Express/dp/B00UXOGCP0
Case | Phanteks Enthoo Primo | 1 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Phanteks-PH-ES813P_BL-Enthoo-Primo-Tower/dp/B00EB0A6FE
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA 1600W G2 | 1 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/EVGA-Supernova-Modular-Power-Supply/dp/B00MGPJHPQ
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 64 GB (8x 8 GB) DDR4 2400 MHz | 1 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CMK64GX4M8A2400C14-Vengeance-Performance-Desktop/dp/B00PLERJ7M
SSD | SanDisk Ultra II 960GB | 1 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/SanDisk-Ultra-Sata-2-5-inch-Internal/dp/B00M8ABHVQ
SSD | Samsung 840 EVO 1TB (From Previous Build) | 1 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Samsung-2-5-inch-Basic-Solid-State/dp/B00E3W16OU
CPU Waterblock | EK-Supremacy EVO – Acetal | 1 | https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-supremacy-evo-acetal
GPU Waterblock | Titan X/GTX 980Ti Copper Acetal Water Cooling Block EKWB | 4 | https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-titan-x-acetal
GPU Backplate | Black Aluminum TITAN X/980Ti Water Block Retention Backplate | 4 | https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-titan-x-backplate-black
GPU Bridge | EK-FC Terminal QUAD Semi-Parallel - Titan READY | 1 | https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-terminal-quad-semi-parallel
Tubing | TUBE PrimoChill PrimoFlex™ Advanced LRT™ 15,9 / 9,5mm (1 meter) | 3 | https://shop.ekwb.com/tube-primochill-primoflextm-advanced-lrttm-9-5-15-9-mm-crystal-clear
Compression Fitting | EK-ACF Fitting 10/16mm | 20 | https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-acf-fitting-10-16mm-black
90 Degree Fitting | EK-AF Angled 90° G1/4 | 6 | https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-af-angled-90-g1-4-black
Ball Valve Fitting | EK-AF Ball Valve (10mm) G1/4 | 1 | https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-af-ball-valve-10mm-g1-4-black
Pump Top | Alphacool HF D5 TOP - Black Acetal | 1 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Alphacool-HF-D5-TOP-mounting/dp/B00L5J1YIC
Reservoir | Alphacool Repack Dual 5.25" Drive Bay Reservoir | 1 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Alphacool-Repack-cooling-pressure-monitor/dp/B007ENAVCI
Pump | Alphacool VPP655 D5 Pump | 2 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Alphacool-VPP655-PWM-Single-cooling/dp/B00LLR40OI
Radiator | Alphacool 35281 NexXxoS UT60 Radiator 480 | 2 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Alphacool-NexXxoS-Copper-480mm/dp/B007P05Y18
Radiator | Alphacool 35279 NexXxoS UT60 Radiator 240 | 1 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Alphacool-NexXxoS-UT60-Copper-240mm/dp/B007P05XUU
Radiator Fans | Corsair SP120 PWM Quiet Edition (Dual Pack) | 5 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CO-9050006-WW-SP120-Quiet-Pressure/dp/B007RESFR2
Fan Controller | Phobya PWM 8 x 4Pin Fan Splitter | 2 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Phobya-PWM-8x-4Pin-Splitter/dp/B00OD7MO6E
Biocide | Mayhems Biocide 10ml | 1 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Mayhems-Solutions-Ltd-Biocide-10ml/dp/B007WDOKAE
If you made it this far through the rambling, thanks for reading, keep an eye out for more pictures, and keep on being glorious!
SanDisk Ultra II 960GB SATA III 2.5-Inch 7mm Height Solid State Drive (SSD) -- $164.99
My question, is this https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B073SB2MXT/
(WD Blue 3D NAND 1TB Internal PC SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s, M.2 2280, Up to 560 MB/s - WDS100T2B0B) worth $65? It's a normal sata speed m.2, not nvme
I have a free m.2 slot that doesn't support nvme, just normal sata speeds.
OP meant it as Amazon already lowered their price to match Newegg's. i.e. It's currently $59.99 on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Passport-Portable-External-WDBYFT0040BBK-WESN/dp/B01LQQH86A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1492087677&sr=8-3&keywords=4tb+western+digital+external+hard+drive
about $115 on amazon for the one pictured
It's been that price on Amazon since September 21. The M.2 version is actually cheaper at $199.99.
So buy one. They're like, $350.
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-75E1T0B-AM/dp/B00OBRFFAS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427478813&sr=8-1&keywords=1TB+SSD
For comparison, the higher model is $30 more at $159.99 https://www.amazon.ca/Crucial-MX500-500GB-NAND-Internal/dp/B0784SLQM6/
The BX300 seems really good for the price too though, just worth noting the difference in price for other options
Or you can buy this enclosure to make an m.2 SSD into a USB3 flash drive. And then you can just buy a 1TB M.2 SSD for $230.
Bam, slightly oversized yet insanely fast "Flash Drive".
Not really, seagate compute drives are not that good, and external 8tb wd drives (easystore, elements, my book) go for 130usd pretty often, and come with white label drives inside that are a lot better.
Right now amazon has elements8tb at 140, https://www.amazon.com/Elements-Desktop-Hard-Drive-WDBWLG0080HBK-NESN/dp/B07D5V2ZXD/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=elements+8tb&qid=1556298793&s=electronics&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1
ur a scrub
I just got this in 5tb drive It's $115 now, but it was $109 two weeks ago when I got it.
$28 for a 128GB USB 3 drive
Pretty common sale price, so there isn't a rush to purchase it today in case anyone feels pressured but wants more time to research* (Per Amazon's ccc data)
https://camelcamelcamel.com/Seagate-BarraCuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST2000DM006/product/B01IEKG402
If you can, invest in one of these. Best $100 I’ve ever spent and now I longer have to worry about deleting games.
WD 4TB Black My Passport Portable External Hard Drive - USB 3.0 - WDBYFT0040BBK-WESN https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LQQH86A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Vq21Bb5P5K3N5
Don't bother going with an NVME SSD, just get an M.2 SATA one, you'll get a lot more for your money, and the real world performance will be unnoticeably different.
This one is double the capacity, pretty much the same price.
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-500GB-SSD-WDS500G2B0B/dp/B073SBX6TY/
EDIT: and here's some benchmarks I found quickly for gaming. https://www.reddit.com/r/sffpc/comments/7pd8op/i_benchmarked_real_case_load_times_between_my_m2/
If you're just doing gaming, just get a SATA one. NVME is very overhyped for the average consumer.
I bought the WD digital at $94.
I must admit though that the 2TB is the better sweet spot for price/space, since 4 is overkill.
Here's the model: https://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-Passport-Drive-USB-3-0-WDBYFT0040BBK-WESN/dp/B01LQQH86A
Also, I could probably have went with a cheaper brand, since reliability isn't so important for this use case.
I personally don't care for Seagate because of Blackblaze mostly but also the horror stories I hear from time to time. I'm a longevity buyer or BIFL (buy it for life). I work in a datacenter and know that drives are never bifl but I do my best. Recently I looked for a large drive for my brother to put in his laptop. Seagate was the only drive available for the larger sizes in his price range. I found a sale for a WD External Hard Drive 4tb where basically he would pay $90 for a large external drive. That was what I went with for him as WD are better drives from what I've seen as well as they're a bit more reliable.
I've noticed that Seagate puts a LOT of money into advertising which I understand works some but if your drives are high failure rate then people that consistently buy drives may stop buying them such as those on r/datahoarders . Personally even WD drives aren't as reliable and if I buy anymore for myself I'll be paying a bit extra to get HGST due to their quality which overall is more important to me. I'd suggest to Seagate that they increase quality and decrease advertising some if they need money from somewhere. If I found that Seagate quality increased to HGST standards even if it was a NEW LINE; I'd be very inclined to spend money on a high end Seagate with a better warranty.
No. Just stuff they had lying around.
I actually got a fairly OK deal on this SSD I have in my laptop ($300 CAD)
If there's been a big ticket purchase you've been eyeing and that you can wait for, it doesn't hurt to see what's going on with it on Prime Day.
Now, as I write this comment, I decided to swing by one of those Amazon price tracking websites just out of curiosity.
I
Hate
Myself
SO, in sum, it's nothing to get worked up about. Maybe this year will be different. Let's be optimistic.
EDIT: And some more sleuthing reveals that the Americans got an even better deal on the same drive last year. Living in Canada sometimes sucks.
Double capacity for 50% more of the price seems worth it 500g on amazon for 65
There's the MX300 275gb on amazon for the same price, which I would rather get if you needed a boot ssd right now.
No, just get a 2tb hdd for $60 IMO
Edit: here
When you save a new project, there are options at the bottom left on the dialog box to 𝘾𝙧𝙚𝙖𝙩𝙚 𝙨𝙪𝙗𝙙𝙞𝙧𝙚𝙘𝙩𝙤𝙧𝙮 𝙛𝙤𝙧 𝙥𝙧𝙤𝙟𝙚𝙘𝙩 and 𝐌𝐎𝐕𝐄 𝙖𝙡𝙡 𝙢𝙚𝙙𝙞𝙖 𝙞𝙣𝙩𝙤 𝙥𝙧𝙤𝙟𝙚𝙘𝙩 𝙙𝙞𝙧𝙚𝙘𝙩𝙤𝙧𝙮, which results in the project structure you are looking for.
Next: (I haven't tried this, but it should work) - if you want to save an old project, load it up and save with the above settings. It should move all the necessary files into one subdirectory.
Be careful if you re-use files in multiple projects i.e. loops, because you could end up with missing files in your other project folders. In that case, use the 𝐂𝐎𝐏𝐘 𝙖𝙡𝙡 𝙢𝙚𝙙𝙞𝙖 𝙞𝙣𝙩𝙤 𝙥𝙧𝙤𝙟𝙚𝙘𝙩 𝙙𝙞𝙧𝙚𝙘𝙩𝙤𝙧𝙮 option.
Next, (if you're on Windows), install 7 Zip and use it at its maximum setting to compress the entire project directory to one file. I did a quick test and got about 15% space savings (YMMV).
And start saving for an external hard drive. Don't get the smallest one - save a little more and get a medium sized one.
I personally find a SanDisk Ultra II 960GB for $189 more worth it than this. They have almost the same read/write speed
SanDisk Ultra II
SAMSUNG 850 EVO
This is a good deal but personally for $5 more I prefer the SanDisk one which you can't bend and break the drive or your usb port: http://smile.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-SDCZ43-128G-GAM46-Newest-Version/dp/B01BGTG2A0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459355305&sr=8-1&keywords=sandisk+ultra+fit
Nice catch, I missed that. Amazon uses that same picture for the 16, 32, 64 and 128gb variants though:
https://www.amazon.de/SanDisk-USB-Flash-Laufwerk-150-MB-Neueste-Version/dp/B01BGTG2A0/
I have the 128gb on my desk and it looks just like that.
I feel it's hard to justify this when you can get a 960 evo with 250 gb for $117 on amazon but if you really only need 120GB then I guess? Also there is no way this is worth $125 with my previous statement.
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-960-EVO-Internal-MZ-V6E500BW/dp/B01LYFKX41/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1506300581&sr=1-1&keywords=960%2Bevo&th=1
should have gone with this one instead
It is even better than the one from the video.
$120 is a bullshit regular price, don't believe it. Pretty sure this is about regular price on Amazon. This is a budget drive, which is still going to be much better than an HDD, but $90 is too much. I'd get this instead, it's an all around better drive. Or wait for the A400 to hit a lower price.
1TB M.2 970 Evo have been sitting at $229
Here is one that my squad and I have zero issues with. Works like a charm.
Silicon Power 256GB SSD 3D NAND A55 SLC Cache Performance Boost SATA III 2.5" 7mm (0.28") Internal Solid State Drive (SP256GBSS3A55S25) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RJS55D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gs0SCbBVK5W2M
And here is the case
Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-Free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized for SSD, Support UASP SATA III] Black (EC-UASP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Cs0SCb5R6QZQ8
Also $30, but 128 GB. I have one and I love it, fits nicely in the small pocket in my trousers.
Mac Mini (2018 model), named NOSTROMO
Mac Mini (2010 model), named SPUNKMEYER
MacBook Pro Retina 15” (2015 model), named SULACO
Mac Mini (2012 model), named FERRO
Mac Mini (2012 model), named AURIGA
Both the 2012 Minis and the 2010 Mini are completely headless. Unfortunately, this means that accessing them via remote desktop gives you a measly 800x600 resolution. I use this handy little gadget on both of them to replicate a 1920x1080 display being connected. So, when I connect via Screen Sharing I get a nice big display.
MacBook Pro (2018 model), named APLC02XV5W1JGH5
iPad Pro 10.5", named APONE
iPhone X, named RIPLEY
LG Blu-Ray reader/writer in connected to NOSTROMO via USB 3.0, used for ripping Blu-Rays and DVDs
Sabrent USB 3.0 Dual-Bay Hard Drive Dock, also connected to NOSTROMO via USB 3.0
The microphone is a Yeti Blue with a Nady Pop Filter, coupled with a Logitech HD C310, used for Google Hangouts and FaceTime calls with the fam, and the occasional podcast. It is mounted on a RODE PSA1 Swivel Mount Studio Microphone Boom Arm and a RADIUS II Microphone Shock Mount.
The mousepad is an XTracPads Ripper XXL mousepad
The chair is a Raynor Ergohuman ME7ERG desk chair
I use Dropbox to expertly keep my content in sync. Due to the amount of content I keep in there, it is well worth the $100 per year for a Dropbox Pro subscription.
Additionally throughout the house, I have...
3 Eeros for my Mesh Wireless Network WiFi System
2 Apple TVs (4K), named ASH and CALL
1 Apple TV (4th Generation), named BISHOP
1 Apple HomePod, named DIETRICH
1 Nest Hello Video Doorbell, named HELLO
1 Nest Learning Thermostat, named NEST (yeah, original af, I know)
2 WyzeCam Pans, named WYZE-Kitchen and WYZE-LivingRoom
4 WeMo Smart Plugs, named WEMO-Foyer, WEMO-SpareBedroom, WEMO-MasterBedroom, and WEMO-LivingRoom
1 Amazon Echo Plus, named ECHO-LivingRoom
2 Amazon Echoes (First-Generation), named ECHO-MasterBedroom and ECHO-Kitchen
2 Amazon Echo Dots, named DOT-Office, and DOT-SpareBedroom
4 Google Home Minis
1 Brother HL-L2395DW Wireless Laser Printer, named LV426
1 PlayStation 3 Slim 120 GB, named HICKS
I have a total of 31 IP reservations according to my Eero app. This makes it a lot easier to manage my network, set up port forwarding, etc.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D5V2ZXD/
My books are $139 on amazon right now and come with a 3 year warranty.Same but with overnight if you have prime, thanks for the correction.
3TB Seagate 7200RPM is $85 on Amazon
Amazon has it for $69.99 with free shipping
Processor - Ryzen 5 1600 - 17k
Motherboard - Any good motherboard which support AM4 socket. Dont choose the cheapest one. - GIGABYTE GA-AB350M-Gaming 3 AM4 - 7k
RAM - Any good 8GB DDR4 2400Mhz(or more) RAM HyperX FURY Black 8 GB 2400 - 6k
SSD - Get atleast 250GB. Nvme ssd is much faster than sata ssd. Samsung is the best in SSDs. - Samsung 960 EVO nvme - 11k
Power supply - Get a good power supply. Don't cheap out. This is the one thing keeping your other components safe. Bad power supply can even catch fire. Corsair VS650 - 4.5k
Cabinet - Get whatever you like. You can get cool looking cabinet for less than 2k to 3k. Iball Stallion - 2.5k
Hard disk - You can always buy more storage later- WD internal 2TB -5k
Graphic card - It is a must have because Ryzen doesnt have an internal GPU. Nvidia 1050 Ti - 1050ti -12k
Total - 65K
You will get better prices if you look around. In most cases, it is overpriced on Amazon. I have just mentioned approx prices.
If you want better performance than this, then just spend 5k more on the processor and get Ryzen 1600X + Coolermaster 212 cooler.
https://imgur.com/UMIR4HO that right there is the M.2 slot. I labelled it SSD but it might be a NVME slot.
Before you do anything, google your laptop's model and check if it has (m.2 nvme) slot or ( m.2 SSD) slot (this will also be inscribed on the slot itself if you look closely)
Buy one of these of your brand/capacity of choice:
NVME : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MH2P5ZD/ref=twister_B07XQXHPBC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
SSD: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-970-EVO-1TB-MZ-V7E1T0BW/dp/B07BN217QG/ref=sr_1_3?crid=13TGVPA1Q3ZA3&keywords=m.2+ssd&qid=1570773310&sprefix=m.2+ss%2Caps%2C453&sr=8-3
Follow this installation guide or a similar video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCIqZjo34rw
This is the lowest price I've seen for this one and may be the lowest its ever been.
Its still going for $277.99 on Amazon and CamelCamelCamel says that was the lowest. Pcpartpicker still hasn't updated their prices but it also shows $277.99 as the previous low.
Edit: Amazon has reduced it's price to match the new low at Newegg!
​
|mobo|$290|AORUS Z390 Master|
|:-|:-|:-|
|gpu|$700|AORUS 1080 ti Xtreme|
|ram|$360|G.Skill TridentZ RGB 4x8 3200 Mhz|
|cpu|$360|Intel i7 8700k 5Ghz OC|
|psu|$156|Corsair RM1000i Gold|
|nvme|$138|Samsung 970 EVO 500GB 2280 SSD|
|case|$150|Corsair Obsidian 500D|
|fans|$56|Corsair SP120|
|rgb fans|$110|Corsair LL120 RGB|
|cables|$105|CableMod PRO ModMesh C-Series RMi|
|240 rad|$66|EKWB EK-CoolStream SE 240 Slim Dual|
|360 rad|$90|EKWB EK-CoolStream PE 360 Dual|
|gpu wb|$165|EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Aorus RGB - Nickel|
|gpu bp|$47|EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Aorus Backplate - Nickel|
|cpu wb|$72|Phanteks Glacier C350i|
|kit|$60|Thermaltake PETG 16mm OD Bending Kit|
|pump|$100|EKWB EK-D5 PWM G2 Pump|
|res|$126|Watercool HEATKILLER Tube 200 D5|
|res top|$21|Watercool HEATKILLER Multiport Top 200|
|stand|$19|Watercool HEATKILLER Stand (Long)|
|riser|$27|Thermaltake PCI-E x16 3.0 Riser Cable 200mm|
|coolant|$56|XSPC EC Opaque White Coolant (qty 2)|
|fittings|$54|Thermaltake Pacific 90 Degree Adapters|
|fittings|$110|Thermaltake Pacific 16mm Compression Fittings (qty 2)|
|fittings|$26|Bitspower 5mm Male to Male 4-Pack|
|fittings|$20|Barrow Stop Plug 4-Pack|
|fittings|$15|Thermaltake Stop Plug 4-Pack|
|fittings|$14|XSPC Ball Valve|
|tubing|$40|Thermaltake 1000mm V-Tubler PETG 16mm 4-Pack|
|paste|$40|Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut|
|isopropyl|$18|NTE Isopropyl 99.9%|
|bottle|$11|1000ml fill bottle|
|foam|$13|1/4 inch thick foam insulation|
|heat gun|$25|Furno 300 Heat Gun|
||$3649||
||||
|mouse pad|$26|Reflex Lab XXXL 36" x 18" Mouse Pad|
|chair|$175|Techni Mobili RTA-5004-BK Rta-5004-Bk Office Chair|
|arm pads|$18|Aloudy Ergonomic Memory Foam Arm Covers|
|monitor|$900|Acer Predator x34p Ultrawide QHD G-Sync|
|stand|$100|AmazonBasics Premium Single 25lb Monitor Stand|
|cable|$18|Accell DisplayPort 1.2 Cable 10ft|
||$4886||
||||
|mouse|$50|Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum RGB|
|keyboard|$110|https://www.amazon.com/MODEL-Corsair-Gaming-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B00N2ROO2S|
||$5046||
​
These may/may not be considered a deal but here's what I found
ASUS PRIME Z370-A ($121 - 20%)
Samsung 970 EVO 500GB ($118-20%)
EVGA CLC 280mm All-In-One RGB LED CPU Liquid Cooler ($76-20%)
EVGA M01C-61-000002 CLC Tuner ($5-20%)
​
Edit: There's also a wacky rgb fan
Seagate Expansion 5TB Desktop External Hard Drive USB 3.0
for anyone who doesn't know, these make excellent boot drives for secondary/server PCs that won't use much storage, since they sit almost flush with the USB port
they also have 64GB for $19.99: https://www.amazon.ca/SanDisk-Ultra-Flash-Drive-SDCZ43-064G-GAM46/dp/B01BGTG3JA/
and 128GB for $37.99: https://www.amazon.ca/SanDisk-Ultra-SDCZ43-128G-GAM46-Newest-Version/dp/B01BGTG2A0/
Standard 2.5 inch version is also $154.99.
https://www.amazon.ca/Crucial-MX500-NAND-SATA-Internal/dp/B077SF8KMG
WD My Passport 4TB USB 3.0 Portable External Hard Drive (Black) will be at 8414 INR after cashback if bought through SBI debit card via app.
Usually costs around 11K, unless you buy from their global store.
I use this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Passport-Portable-External-Drive/dp/B01LQQH86A
No external power required, and the design is similar.
EDIT2: Só como referencia: iMac i7 comprado pelo governo, segue o baile comparando com o PC montado e este meu comentario US$1.200,00 de diferença.
O preço do iMac é exagerado até la fora: iMac top de linha i5
Quem entende de computadores sabe que você monta um PC MELHOR por um preço bem menor: Top de linha no MINIMO 5x mais forte, e o mesmo preço. Na verdade, um exagero, porque montei com as melhores peças no mercado atualmente. Poderia até ter poupado mais e aproveitado o quad-channel do ram na placa mãe, que seria melhor e mais barato, só quis ser overkill.
Os produtos Apple são overpriced em QUALQUER mercado, só ver a linha de ultrabooks deles por 2k dolares e os concorrentes pelo mesmo valor (Razer Blade).
EDIT: link talvez tenha problemas, então eis os itens:
Somando US$2.100,30
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Passport-Portable-External-Drive/dp/B01LQQH86A
I have the 2TB and 4TB models. Work very well. Just plug, transfer/save, and play!
Same price on amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-2-5-Inch-Height-SDSSDHII-960G-G25/dp/B00M8ABHVQ
Same price on Amazon.
Samsung 840 EVO 120GB on amazon for only $59.99 USD +a free code for FC4.
The [WD Elements] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D5V2ZXD/ref=sxts_kp_bs_lp_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=8778bc68-27e7-403f-8460-de48b6e788fb&pd_rd_wg=TR4g0&pf_rd_r=NESM82BEJRAJ4SKZBFHK&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B07D5V2ZXD&pd_rd_w=CZwfD&pf_rd_i=easystore&pd_rd_r=f2ae5032-d0cf-4be9-a40a-8ce456e91359&ie=UTF8&qid=1540751020&sr=1) is only $150 at Amazon today, if you need to scratch that itch. I bought my last three and they were all WD80EMAZ, working beautifully.
I think 960 EVO is a better bet. It costs $117.60 before tax new on Amazon right now and it comes with a 3 year warranty. I believe the performance is close to the 950 PRO. It has 6 gigs less space though.
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-960-EVO-Internal-MZ-V6E500BW/dp/B01LYFKX41/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1506266688&sr=1-1&keywords=960%2Bevo&th=1
https://www.amazon.ca/Samsung-970-EVO-M-2-MZ-V7E1T0BW/dp/B07BN217QG
forgot the link :)
It's ~$5 less than 1TB MX500 (5y warranty), and that's only if you have an Amazon Prime Visa card for the 15% cash back, although tax is obviously charged pre-cashback so ad another $2-$3. It's a tough call, depends more on who is better re: warranty.
e: oops! should have responded to r/JerHawkins37
Not sure what conflicting answers you speak of.
Any modern/new SSD of 256GB or more will suffice. Whether that's an internal or external is up to you. An internal will need an adapter that transfers it's connection to USB 3.
Name brands MAY last longer than a cheap off brand, but the data in test results doesn't really support that. I use an external Samsung T5 but only because I got it for a birthday present. Most of my friends have Amazon specials that cost far less and so far have given the same results in PUBG.
Recommended:
https://www.amazon.com/Silicon-Power-Performance-Internal-SP256GBSS3A55S25/dp/B075RJS55D/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=ssd+256gb&qid=1558678862&s=pc&sprefix=ssd+256&sr=1-3
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=pd_aw_fbt_147_img_3/139-8676850-0599245?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00OJ3UJ2S&pd_rd_r=2d362e9e-7dec-11e9-8740-41568e48106d&pd_rd_w=YUiIL&pd_rd_wg=4ofBA&pf_rd_p=3ecc74bd-d08f-44bd-96f3-d0c2b89f563a&pf_rd_r=PYHDBFYYVZTD6HQWT0GG&psc=1&refRID=PYHDBFYYVZTD6HQWT0GG
I bought this SSD for just over $30 Silicon Power 256GB SSD 3D NAND... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RJS55D?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
And then this case all for under $50 Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Totally worth it in my opinion. Buildings and weapons are loaded in when I drop on all of the maps :)
Well... 84% of reviews with 4 stars or more isn't worth trusting surely.
If someone's short on money while having an insanely slow PC, it's still much better than keeping complaining.
Benchmarks suggest that this is 20% below usual ssd performance ( 450-425 mb/s r/w vs industry 500/500+ mb/s average ), but you still got a massive 3-8x faster speeds comparing to a HDD.this ssd compared to 970 evo 500gb : https://ssd.userbenchmark.com/Compare/WD-Blue-3D-1TB-vs-Samsung-970-Evo-NVMe-PCIe-M2-500GB/m352978vsm493995
one of the best value ssd's out on the market the Crucial mx500 comparison, pricewise they are around the same level, if you ask me, I'd go with Crucial instead:
https://ssd.userbenchmark.com/Compare/WD-Blue-3D-1TB-vs-Crucial-MX500-1TB/m352978vsm406099
it costs ~129£ here
Better $/GB with the 275GB MX300: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01IAGSD5O/?tag=pcp0f-20
EDIT: And it's cheaper than the PNY drive, even if by a tiny amount.
The cheapest it sells for is 59.99 on Amazon which is $.03 per GB. From Newegg the offer is free shipping and no tax to my state. So this deal just barely edges out the competition. The 3TB went on sale a week or two ago for $75 which is $.025 per GB. Much better value with the 3TB, that fraction of a cent difference is equal to $10 less for a 2TB and $15 less for a 3TB. Don't know if there is worse performance out of larger HDD's or not.
edit: HDD platters are the same physical size. Meaning bigger hard drives have higher data density. So, theoretically the larger capacity drive will be slightly faster simply because the information is closer together. The difference is probably imperceptible though.
PC Setup (Generated from my old spreadsheet)
Comes to roughly $1,963 for the tower itself which is pretty cheap all things considering
​
If you are interested in my monitors at all, I'm using the following
​
Other
​
This would have been a perfect opportunity to generate affiliate links, but I don't care. Hopefully that helps!
Ofertas previas al viernes afro:
De nada...
Amazon has the M.2 for $159.
There's also the M.2 version for 119$ on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B073SB2MXT/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1
This is one of the drives I have: WD 4 TB My Passport Portable Hard Drive - Black https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01LQQH86A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TJpOAb2DB9PN9
https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-TUF-X570-Plus-Motherboard-Lighting/dp/B07SXFK1TP
That’s a good mobo, costs more but anything cheaper has bad VRMs,
https://youtu.be/zuyuS04lD4o
this video is good for motherboards.
https://www.google.com/amp/s/amp.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/62vp2g/clearing_up_any_samsung_bdie_confusion_eg_on/
Good Reddit post on bdie RAM.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SB2MXT/?tag=pcpapi-20
I also think the higher end builds should have a 1TB ssd, and this one is nice.
And as other commenters said, a better PSU and perhaps a nicer case (meshify C, and H500 are both nice) on the higher end builds would be a good improvement.
Por volta das 2h30/3h começou a ir normalizando e a black friday deles vai durar até dia 1.
Acabei por aproveitar algumas promoções deles (especialmente nas rams que andam incrivelmente caras em qualquer lado) para montar um PC, algo que já andava a planear há alguns meses:
Was about to purchase, but checked amazon first. On TD price with shipping to me is $106. Same drive is available for $107.20 with prime shipping on amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Barracuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST3000DM001/dp/B005T3GRLY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1397832342&sr=8-3&keywords=seagate+barracuda
In short, there is no proof that it does.
You are basing the failure rate off of Newegg reviews which are by nature, flawed. Voluntary response bias leads people to only comment if they have a problem with a drive. People are far likely to review a drive negatively than positively.
The level of voluntary response bias varies from drive to drive and from site to site. For instance if you look at this drive on Amazon it has perfectly fine reviews.
Bad timing bro
Samsung 840 Evo 120GB
Do. Not. Buy. This. Shit.
840's were notorious for being trash. This isn't even a good price anyways. You can get a used 1 tb 850 Evo for less.
Stay FAR away from Seagate drives, they're notorious for high fail rates. You can find better deals on other external drives. You can get a WAY more reliable WD 8TB for five dollars more and if you purchase it via B&H you get a free 16GB flash drive.
The SSD market seems to have crashed in the past year (at least on Amazon UK) - a year ago 1TB cost £230, now it's £140
500gb ssds are going for around $80-$90 fyi https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-500GB-NAND-Internal/dp/B0784SLQM6
I have the same 13” mid 2012 MBP and am running 16gb of RAM w/ a 1TB SSD. I also have the same version of Ableton as you. The official specs from Apple list 8gb RAM as the max but it can for sure support 16gb. Based on the specs you provided I’d guess you have the i5 version which comes stock with 4gb of RAM and the 500gb HDD. Your model will support 16gb and you’ll see a significant boost in performance, with Ableton and the computer in general, if you add 16gb and an SSD. If you leave the standard 500gb HDD, I'd assume you'd only see a moderate boost in performance since that's really the big driver of slow performance. I can't speak to the performance of Omnisphere as I don't have a working copy but I do know it made a significant boost for pretty much everything in Ableton and otherwise.
​
My recommendation would be to add 16gb of RAM plus an SSD. They are both relatively straight forward processes as well (links below), just need the right tools and to take your time. Watch YouTube tutorials. Attaching links to the items I have in mine. I'd recommend getting the Crucial RAM and Samsung SSD (which is what I have and has a higher performance rating), but the Crucial SSD will be adequate as well.
​
Let me know if you have other questions on it.
​
INSTRUCTIONS
HDD Swap - https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/MacBook+Pro+13-Inch+Unibody+Mid+2012+Hard+Drive+Replacement/10378
RAM Swap - https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/MacBook+Pro+13-Inch+Unibody+Mid+2012+RAM+Replacement/10374
​
PRODUCTS
Crucial SSD - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0784SLQM6/
Samsung SSD - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781Z7Y3S/
RAM - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008LTBJFW/
Tool Kit - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IVKPTP6/
Samsung 860 EVO SSDs are basically rated the best in terms of performance and the best SSD brand with only a minor price premium. The 500GB version is $80 while the 250GB is $58.
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-500GB-Internal-MZ-76E500B-AM/dp/B07864WMK8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1542399154&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=samsung%2BEVO%2B860%2B500GB&th=1
​
They are $5 more compared to the Crucial MX500 models for the same capacities. Samsung has their own migration software (works only with Samsung) that you can download from their site if you want to clone your current hard drive. However, most people are unlikely to notice the performance difference
​
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-500GB-NAND-Internal/dp/B0784SLQM6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1542399242&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=Crucial+Mx500++500GB&psc=1
​
Don't know much about the Crucial BX500 or WD Green series SSDs. But even slow SSDs are much faster than than the fastest hard drive.
Nope, no more fees. I'll do a test run right now for you. You already know that the Chromecast delivery cost me $2.90 from MSB. I'll use another order from my history to illustrate the difference in cost.
I bought myself a refurbished Seagate Desktop 3 TB HDD SATA 6 Gb/s NCQ 64MB Cache 7200 RPM 3.5-Inch Internal Bare Drive ST3000DM001 on sale for $69.99.
------
Amazon delivery to MSB warehouse: $5.99 (~Php 270.03)
(If I had opted for the sea freight, it would have only cost $5.80)
-----
Amazon delivery direct to Philippines: $35.36 (~Php 1,687.48)
-----
I have a subscription to MSB through Globe GCASH which costs me Php 250 per year. So, even adding all of those individual costs: 270.03 + 740.40 + 250.00 = 1,260.43 @ MSB^( [or 780.91 if I opted for sea freight]) < 3,939.66 @ Amazon = 1,687.48 + 2,252.18
Consider the fact that I do more than one MSB shipment a year and the yearly subscription fee seems less and less of an issue.
Edit: Added details about Import Fees Deposit from Amazon.
Here are the products without the referral links:
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Passport-Portable-External-Drive/dp/B01LQQH86A/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1538363765&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=external+hard+drive
Your problem can be solved with $100. 4TB is plenty for this generation.
If Best Buy does Price Matching your friend could save a cool $100 right now. http://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-envy-x360-convertible-laptop-15z-touch-1za07av-1 Then drop the savings on this https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-960-EVO-Internal-MZ-V6E250BW/dp/B01LYFKX41/
NUC6i7KYK...
I've now installed about 2 dozen of these puppies. And plan to deploy another dozen or two within the next year.
It's a fantastic work terminal, mini-server, cluster-node. I can't recommend enough that if you go this route, you get a Samsung 960 Pro as the primary SSD. 960 Evo could also work for a workstation that won't be doing any server or VM hosting roles. So much of system performance these days is bottle necked by primary drives. The NUK6i7's biggest strength is the 2x PCIe capable M.2 slots.
A minor downside for "3 to 4 1920x1200 monitors" is that you'll need some dongles or daisy chains to get more then 2 monitors. The plus here is that the Thunderbolt3 port and miniDisplayPort gives you quite a few options for display adapters. The setup I use with it and setup others with usually involves 2-3 Ultrawide LG displays. Personally use 2x 25" Ultrawide stacked on top of each other on my left as tertiary monitors and a 29" Ultrawide as my primary.
Reasons not to go with the NUC6i7.
We run a pure Windows shop. So I can't vouch for the Linux drivers on the NUC6i7 specifically. Though in the past Intel NUCs have have solid Linux support when I tried (Ubuntu and RHEL) with 2nd or 3rd gen NUCs.
Here's our typical build, usually comes in @ $1100-$1200 depending on price fluctuations:
This WD Blue 1TB M.2 SATA SSD is $115, but goes on sale for $99 pretty often. There is also the intel 1TB 660p NVMe M.2 drive that runs about $90. Both are good options, I have the WD Blue one and it works perfectly, it probably costs a bit more because of brand/reliability.
https://smile.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0B/dp/B073SB2MXT its currently 230 off amazon right now
128GB amazon link:
https://www.amazon.com/Silicon-Power-Performance-Internal-SU128GBSS3A55S25AC/dp/B07D7VTDNB/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1538495960&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=silicon+power+128gb+ssd
256GB amazon link:
https://www.amazon.com/Silicon-Power-Performance-Internal-SP256GBSS3A55S25/dp/B075RJS55D/ref=pd_sim_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B075RJS55D&amp;pd_rd_r=21bf0dc2-c65c-11e8-a085-97365cd70759&amp;pd_rd_w=fCBsh&amp;pd_rd_wg=aoiWs&amp;pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_p=56838e6b-66d4-41e0-a762-743f1a1a628a&amp;pf_rd_r=E7TDD8RSQJ5TPEZY22D7&amp;pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&amp;pf_rd_t=40701&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=E7TDD8RSQJ5TPEZY22D7
512GB amazon link:
https://www.amazon.com/Silicon-Power-Performance-Internal-SP512GBSS3A55S25/dp/B07997QV4Z/ref=pd_sim_147_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B07997QV4Z&amp;pd_rd_r=21bf0dc2-c65c-11e8-a085-97365cd70759&amp;pd_rd_w=fCBsh&amp;pd_rd_wg=aoiWs&amp;pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_p=56838e6b-66d4-41e0-a762-743f1a1a628a&amp;pf_rd_r=E7TDD8RSQJ5TPEZY22D7&amp;pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&amp;pf_rd_t=40701&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=E7TDD8RSQJ5TPEZY22D7
I have an SSD and that improved my loading times by a good amount of time, also helps to have better internet, my speeds are good enough but not great at all.
They really aren't that expensive, I'll point you in the right direction if you want. Also helps a ton with games like PUBG, BF, Red Dead, GTA etc.
.
Edit: If anyone is wondering I have one 512GB Silicon Power 3D NAND A55 SLC Cache Performance Boost SATA III 2.5" 7mm (0.28") Internal Solid State Drive from Amazon for $49.99 USD along with another of the same Silicon Power SSD but in 256GB for $28.99 USD.
Then you need the enclosure which costs $8.99: Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-Free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized for SSD, Support UASP SATA III]. Super simple set up, literally open the enclosure by sliding the top off, slide the SSD into the connection slot in the enclosure, put the top on, plug it in to the USB slot and turn the thing on. Really nice price, had never heard of the brand but it has really good reviews, and works well for me. Just about the cheapest SSD I've seen on Amazon with an average review of 4.5+ (and at least 1k reviews).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075RJS55D/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_track_package_o2_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_track_package_o2_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
That's the exact stuff I bought. Buildings always load before I hit the ground
Here is the SSD I bought. $31. You also need to buy a $10 enclosure to plug it in via usb. It has made a massive difference. I would never, ever, ever even try to play this game with out it. Just think about it like upgrading your PC.
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075RJS55D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The MX500 is slightly cheaper and I would favour it over the WD. Link
Amazon been selling it for the same price for few weeks now.
If you'd prefer WD and an another year of warranty (2 vs 3 years) for $20 more ($0.0187/gb) there is this for $149.99 not on sale)
WD 8TB Elements Desktop Hard Drive - USB 3.0 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D5V2ZXD/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_0Ie0DbB3X5YSV
WD 8TB Elements Desktop Hard Drive - USB 3.0 - WDBWLG0080HBK-NESN https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D5V2ZXD
139.99 @ Amazon right now: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D5V2ZXD
its 263.99 on amazon https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-2-5-Inch-Height-SDSSDHII-960G-G25/dp/B00M8ABHVQ mind you theres only 3 left
The NZ dollar is lower than it's been in a few years making importing components much costlier. We're talking up to 88c high to 63c currently against the US dollar.
Even when the dollar is high, the cost of shipping plus the potential for duty would often nullify any gain or reduce them to be rather minimal. Of course, for stuff bought overseas getting some level of service can also be difficult.
Only when you find a real deal on small things (for the shipping) or things hard to get in NZ is it typically worth it, for example a 1TB SSD for $199 during Black Friday sales. As the lowest price in NZ was still $540 at the time, this was a clear win of $250 or so saved after conversion. Now it's $250, (plus shipping) - $255.43 US, or $400 NZ, and the NZ price is down to $479. Getting quite a bit narrower, but still probably worth it as it's unlikely to require duty. A top end graphics card on the other hand, it going to cost more in shipping, and also certainly attract duty.
Ultimately, I tend to buy a lot of stuff from Computerlounge.co.nz who have amazing service, typically great prices. They also have 7-10% off sales on any excuse, regularly. gpforums.co.nz have a fairly comprehensive ranking of the stores you would find on pricespy.co.nz: http://www.gpforums.co.nz/threads/297771-Experiences-with-Online-Retailers
Never buy from Expert Infotech. Holy shit. If it doesn't show up or it breaks, you're stuffed.
Also same price on Amazon if you prefer:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OBRFFAS/ref=twister_B00PRDMHLU?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Bought them for $109 on amazon during BF, and shuck them. AMA
edit: mine was this one, so I'm not sure if it's the same one guys. Sorry about that :/
Seagate Expansion 5TB Desktop External Hard Drive USB 3.0 (STEB5000100)
here's what I use
$149 at Amazon if you don't have MC
Samsung 970 EVO 500GB
It's now price matched on Amazon.com if have gift cards or extra rewards on Amazon or just prefer Amazon's customer support
Link
Same price at Amazon: https://www.amazon.ca/Samsung-970-EVO-500GB-MZ-V7E500BW/dp/B07BN4NJ2J/
Probably because their decision about where to do shopping based on taxes isn't one that most people like to admit they do themselves. Likely more to do with the way it was phrased than the actual sentiment; hell, I was tempted to downvote it as a knee-jerk reaction to any complaints about taxes, but I do it too. I'd rather buy from a shop closer to home than pay the 10% sales tax in Downtown Minneapolis, unless I want/need it now, or I can't find it elsewhere, but in that case I'm not going to complain about it either because that's simply the price of doing business.
Of course, I doubt this will be much of a boon to local/small businesses, since Amazon is really killing retailers in terms of price and availability.
For example: trying finding a Panasonic Lumix G6 anywhere in the area. Or Sennheiser headphones. Or hard disks: Best Buy wants $118, Amazon wants $102. Micro Center has them too, but they want $110, and they're way the hell out on the other side of the metro area from me.
I don't think this is going to hurt Amazon or help local businesses as much as people think it will.
MX500 500GB for $79.99 on Amazon.ca
https://www.amazon.ca/Crucial-MX500-500GB-NAND-Internal/dp/B0784SLQM6/ref=gwm_cc_v2?pf_rd_s=grid-6&amp;pf_rd_t=Gateway&amp;pf_rd_i=mobile&amp;pf_rd_m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&amp;pd_rd_wg=BPgOr&amp;pd_rd_r=2HGDX6B4ECGW0Q5E1R5E&amp;pd_rd_w=r1PFZ&amp;pf_rd_r=NFE7KRNBKNXH3EMVQYTE&amp;pf_rd_p=baac6ca5-9603-49d4-af03-a8cba75ff001&amp;smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&amp;psc=1
As for the RAM:
The Mac mini 2011 supports up to 16 GB RAM (2 x 8 GB RAM modules). It has two RAM slots, meaning two RAM modules in total will fit in. A higher total amount than 16 GB RAM won't work due to a limitation in the logic board.
The Mac mini 2011 needs RAM that matches the following specification:
PC3-10600 DDR3 1333 MHz, 204-pin
Here are some examples of RAM modules that work flawlessly in the Mac mini:
You may find information online which states that your Mac Mini 2011 only supports up to 8 GB RAM (2 x 4 GB RAM modules), but this is outdated information! As 8 GB RAM modules were not commonly available back in 2012, Apple could only test with 2 x 4 GB RAM = 8 GB RAM. When 8 GB RAM modules became available, users found out that the actual maximum RAM capacity this machine supports is 16 GB RAM, this is also being confirmed by the Amazon reviews of the modules I suggested. Apple never went back to update their info, so the wrong 8 GB RAM figure still swirls around.
Before you upgrade the RAM, check how much RAM is already inside of the machine via the Apple menu at the top left corner of the screen -> "About This Mac".
-----
As for the SSD:
Your Mac mini 2011 supports any SSD that matches the following requirements:
Here are some examples of such SSDs:
Choose a capacity that meets your needs. If you want to keep any of the data that is currently stored on your HDD, I suggest you create a Time Machine backup to some external drive. Once the SSD is in, macOS can be restored via Internet Recovery:
Once macOS is reinstalled, you will be asked whether or not you want to restore from a Time Machine backup during the setup procedure.
-----
This video shows you both the RAM and SSD upgrade procedure, but the iFixit text guide /u/mayhem-8 has linked to is also very good:
Don't know for sure, but I do know from other industries that scaling up can be hard, plus residential settings will take far, far higher failure rates than commercial settings, and require different features.
Take these two hard drives: Data Center and Home
They're both 2TB, 3.5 inch form factor, 7200 RPM with a 64mb cache. But the data center drive costs twice as much, because it has extra features to help out in a data center environment.
How is the remote monitoring and maintenance on the Tesla Roof? Does the charge controller phone home when there's an unexpected hiccup? Are there voltage alarms? How well does it deal with hot-swapping batteries? How well does it deal with thermal runaway burning out the whole battery farm (and likely the structure containing it)?
To an extent there's efficiency of scale, but scale comes with it's own challenges, and I have no idea if the solar roof system is equipped to handle those challenges. Yet.
Samsung T5 Portable SSD 500 GB - ₹ 5,999.00
WD My Passport 4TB Portable External Hard Drive - ₹ 7,699.00
Seagate Backup Plus Portable 4 TB External Hard Drive HDD - ₹ 7,599.00
Is this the same model on Amazon for $259.99?
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-75E1T0B-AM/dp/B00OBRFFAS
Same price on Amazon (been that way for awhile).
No, I wouldn't risk it. This is likely a drive that has been taken out of an enclosure, which means you may have to work with the seller on replacements. These 5TB drives can be found new in cases for around $120-130. I have 6 of these in my array, I broke them out of enclosures my self.
People have asked the same question in the past as well: https://www.reddit.com/r/DataHoarder/comments/3200rl/buyer_beware_cheap_5tb_seagate_barracuda/
They come from these:
https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Expansion-Desktop-External-STEB5000100/dp/B00TKFEEBW
https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Backup-Desktop-External-STDT5000100/dp/B00J0O5R2I
Parts Needed Purchase Link
T-Molding https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074X9JNSX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Arcade buttons, Joystick, and usb adapter to connect buttons to raspberry PI https://www.ebay.com/itm/Arcade-LED-Control-kit-Compatible-with-Raspberry-PI-3-Plug-and-Play-Image-Incl/331814081782?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
Speakers (any desktop speakers will work) https://www.amazon.com/Cyber-Acoustics-multimedia-computer-speakers/dp/B00008MN45/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=speakers+desktop&qid=1562183686&s=electronics&sr=1-9
Arcade cabinet (with no decals) https://www.ebay.com/itm/Extra-Wide-Bartop-Arcade-Cabinet-Kit-Black-Easy-Assembly-for-22-Monitor/392268680930?hash=item5b55090ee2:g:F24AAOSwS2lcOjaJ
Decals for cabinet (you specify what artwork to use, or use their existing artwork) https://www.ebay.com/itm/Arcade-Cabinet-Sticker-Kits-Custom-Made-Bartop-Decals-Vinyl-Graphics-Full-Set/173334849324?epid=23015913882&hash=item285b8fe72c:g:9F4AAOSwMOVcNheB
22 inch monitor (any 22 inch 1080P monitor will work) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019EFMK1I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Light Strip for Marquee https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF65MC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
128GB flash Drive https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BGTG2A0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
256GB SD Card (if you buy an SD card this large, then you don't need the 128GB Flash drive) https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-MicroSDXC-Adapter-MB-ME256GA-AM/dp/B072HRDM55/ref=sxin_3_osp5-d036f8df_cov?ascsubtag=d036f8df-8c95-431e-8004-07311ffa309b&creativeASIN=B072HRDM55&cv_ct_id=amzn1.osp.d036f8df-8c95-431e-8004-07311ffa309b&cv_ct_pg=search&cv_ct_wn=osp-search&keywords=sd+card&linkCode=oas&pd_rd_i=B072HRDM55&pd_rd_r=07e8feba-c265-4983-af93-5e16e7fd7b3b&pd_rd_w=FRnfg&pd_rd_wg=Ycuqv&pf_rd_p=43ba9e17-96f5-4491-b054-e546013f7dc4&pf_rd_r=9M7304BJA5B896489032&qid=1562184521&s=gateway&tag=androidcentralosp-20
Raspberry Pi https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-MS-004-00000024-Model-Board/dp/B01LPLPBS8
Raspberry Pi Case https://www.amazon.com/iUniker-Raspberry-Cooling-Heatsink-Removable/dp/B079M96KWZ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=PI+case&qid=1562183618&s=electronics&sr=1-3
Surge Protector https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LZ5XMU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Arcade Game off/on switch https://www.ebay.com/itm/2BC3-250V-Arcade-Game-Machine-ON-OFF-Switch-Power-Socket-Module-with-Fuse-Parts/312633073711?hash=item48ca62202f:g:eh0AAOSwuHJc7ngf
Power plug for arcade game off/on switch https://www.amazon.com/TNP-Universal-Power-Cord-Feet/dp/B01EYDGO12/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=desktop+power+plug&qid=1562183995&s=electronics&sr=1-3
There are a couple things I wanted but lost bids on.
For example I wanted an cartridge based DVD drive to use DVD RAM for fun (and because it's cyberpunk as fook): image
I also wanted these 5.25 bay speakers: image
SSD : https://www.amazon.com/Silicon-Power-Performance-Internal-SP256GBSS3A55S25/dp/B075RJS55D
Enclosure : https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S
Together, they are pretty cheap. Just pop the SSD in the enclosure, plug in, and you’re good to go.
Is this a genuine question? Because your link looks like an affiliate link (there's a partner code in the URL) plus https://www.amazon.com/Avolusion-HDDGear-6000GB-External-Pre-Formatted/dp/B074Q994C4 Amazon has it cheaper.
I doubt there's any decent drive in there. The same price, or less, can get you 8TB WD or Segates. Like: https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Expansion-Desktop-External-STEB8000100/dp/B01HAPGEIE for $129 & https://www.amazon.com/Elements-Desktop-Hard-Drive-WDBWLG0080HBK-NESN/dp/B07D5V2ZXD for $149 if we go by your link price.
Unless they're running HGST drives or something, which is super unlikely, it's not worth shucking.
Here's a like to the 8TB because it's on sale right now: WD 8TB. If you look around you might find a 10TB. If you have some time, someone usually posts deals on these types of drives to the subreddit.
Also Best Buy has a brand that usually goes on sale. Hope that helps!
If you have an Amazon Prime Credit Card you can get 15% credit back towards the purchase until the Nov 22nd on the hard drive. https://www.amazon.com/Elements-Desktop-Hard-Drive-WDBWLG0080HBK-NESN/dp/B07D5V2ZXD?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Sold out on Newegg, but available on Amazon for $125.
https://www.amazon.com/Elements-Desktop-Hard-Drive-WDBWLG0080HBK-NESN/dp/B07D5V2ZXD/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=wd+8tb&qid=1573058952&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sr=8-5
Non REF link
You can also get the same drive at the $139 price @ Amazon. $3.01 more, but you can use free prime shipping.
https://www.amazon.com/Elements-Desktop-Hard-Drive-WDBWLG0080HBK-NESN/dp/B07D5V2ZXD
Here you go:
Any SSD like this will do:
https://www.amazon.ca/Crucial-MX500-500GB-NAND-Internal/dp/B0784SLQM6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1549063353&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=crucial+ssd&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51K4HDZVQzL&amp;ref=plSrch
From what I can see, the Samsung 860 SSDs tend to run a bit higher cost wise than the Crucial MX 500GB ones. In fact, Crucial has a PCI-e SSD that's basically the same price as the Samsung 860, which would have substantially faster data transfer rate than the SATA SSDs if your motherboard has a PCI-e slot available for it (which it seems like the one you picked has plenty.)
Just bought one of these off Amazon in the UK for the equizilent of $160 and thought I was getting a good deal.
Checked the US amazon and see I got robbed, there is a sale on and they are 109 US
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Passport-Portable-External-Drive/dp/B01LQQH86A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504380613&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=wd+4tb
I recommend WD passport
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LQQH86A/ref=psdcmw_595048_t1_B00W8XXRPM
I've had this board for a couple weeks, so I'll give you a quick review if you're interested.
Some context : I got this board initially because I'm obsessed with smaller form-factor builds, didn't need WiFi, and completely understood Biostar's reputation among enthusiasts, but I didn't want to wait for ASRock, MSI, or the other brands. As much I would have liked a board that had a stronger looking VRM and such, I really didn't want to wait around for the expected release date of those boards only to find they're not coming for another month or something.
Here is my build : R7 1700, 32GB (16x2) Ballistix RAM, 1 M.2 SSD, 4x sata SSDs, GTX 1070, and a 600w PSU. ( <- links if you're interested in specifics)
Anyways, onto the board. Initial impressions were pretty good. Nothing looked cheap except the IO plate which is just a sheet of metal, but that doesn't bother me. What DID bother me was the audio jacks were blocked on the IO plate, so you have to remove bits to make it fit. Getting the prongs to line up properly was a bit of a hassle, too, but not the worst experience I've had with an IO shield.
Everything on the board looked pretty sound. It came with 4x sata cables, and that's about it. Setup couldn't have been easier. I plugged everything in and it booted up with no issues. This board (for me) does however have anywhere from a 5-10 second black screen before reaching the bios every single time. Not really sure what that's about. Also, with raid enabled, the bios will flash for a moment, show the raid console deal, then go back to the bios before booting completely.
I used a Samsung 960 EVO (250GB) M.2 on the back, and it immediately recognized it without any driver fuss. Has been working exceptionally. I have a raid 0 set up in the bios for my 4 other drives hooked into the sata ports. I had no fuss getting an image from my graphics card on the initial boot. Everything just worked.
The bios. It's not exactly sparse considering it's a cheap board, and it's a Biostar, but it's very vague about what everything does. Setting some things up was a bit of a hassle because the lack of documentation and the unhelpful descriptions on the right-hand side. Getting it into raid mode was easy, but fan control is still a bit of a mystery to me, and the overclocking didn't make much sense until I did some research.
The fan control doesn't make much sense in the bios. First off, the fans default to having PWM control off, so both headers will be running at 100% on first boot (which I'm actually glad they do). Manual control doesn't make a whole lot of sense. It gives you a min and max C for different fan speeds, but setting the fan speeds is a bit different. There is a lower percentage (?) speed, and... "speed sensitivity"? I don't know what it means, but manual mode hasn't yielded any results that I could make sense of. I've only messed with it a couple times, but I really don't know what I'm doing in that regard. If anyone has any experience with that, I'd love to hear from you.
Overclocking was a mystery to me for a while. There is no core multiplier settings on the first screen for OC tweaking, and the voltages work with an offset instead of a set value. Eventually I figured out the only real option is to set a P-state overclock (which I like, personally). The catch is, when you enable the P-state overclock, the only value you can change is the core multiplier. If you change the set voltage, it will default to what I assume is a lower P-state. When trying to set my own voltage, it wouldn't run any higher than 2.7GHz. After setting the core clock, you have to back out of the P-state settings and add voltage via the +vcore voltage offset instead. Another note, the P-state overclock is only for P0, I believe.
RAM overclocking seems fine. I haven't touched it hardly at all, but my 2400GHz RAM went up to 2667GHz without any extra voltage. The bios allows you to set timings, and the voltage offset for the RAM and SOC.
Windows setup was a little bit of a mess at first. After the fresh install, it kept crashing after 5-10~ minutes of use, and the only thing that fixed it was eventually making it long enough to install Windows updates (had to do error correction along the way because of a couple failed installs... slow internet is to blame). I think that is more of a Ryzen and Windows thing than it is the board's fault.
I've been running it at ~3.9 @ 1.38V on my 1700 for a couple weeks now. Trying to push it any further past 3.9 just isn't working for me. Not sure if that is a power limit of the 4-pin, or maybe the power delivery just isn't up to it? Maybe my CPU just doesn't like it? Either way, I'm quite happy even reaching 3.9 on my chip, and I'm even more impressed that the board has kept up with it so far.
Hmm... basic stuff. No WiFi, ethernet hasn't given me any issues, IO could maybe use an extra USB port here or there, but it's been enough for me. I'm very glad to see USB-C on there, but I haven't used it just yet. I haven't used the sound card at all. If that is a big factor for you, I can't really say how good it is. I have a DAC/AMP, and my phones definitely cannot be appropriately driven by the built in, so I can't say whether or not it's decent. If you want, I can borrow some other headphones from someone and try it out, but otherwise, not sure what else to say. I'm pretty happy with this little guy. Impressed, even.
If you have any questions, let me know!
EDIT : Added links to parts. Also here is my CPU-Z validation.
m.2 is a form factor, in itself it doesn't give you any kind of performance boost. If it's higher write/read speeds that you want, you're thinking of PCI-E SSDs. Those come in two variants, one being a PCI-E card kind of affair, such as Intel 750 series. The other form factor is M.2. Note that being an M.2 SSD is not the same as being a PCI-E SSD, there are also M.2 form factor SATA SSDs.
If you want the top speeds, you'll want an NVMe SSD. For these, Samsung 960 EVO is a popular choice. Cheaper, but with slightly less performance, you can get a Western Digital Black SSD.. If it's just the form factor you're after, go for something like Crucial MX300.
I can confirm that the new High Sierra public beta nvme support works for booting and running a Samsung 960 EVO nvme drive in my 2015 Macbook Air. It requires a sintech adapter or clone (amazon) which are made to make the 80 mm m.2 ssd fit exactly into the original apple ssd space. Replacing the drive requires a 1.2mm penetalope screwdriver AND a T4/T5 torx. If you look around amazon you may find something that has both.
You will need to make a time machine backup to an external drive and also have room to put the high sierra installer on another usb drive to install it on the ssd.
During installation you will need to format the empty SSD to an apple readable format using disk utils, then you can install High Sierra on the drive. Transfer your information
Total cost: $155
Total time: ~8.5 Hours ( ~4 hours to make time machine backup, ~ 30 minutes to swap the drive. ~1 hour to install High Sierra, ~ 3 hours to restore from backup)
Happy Hacking!
EDIT:
I started getting kernal panics in the nvme driver today when I put the air to sleep. I will do some digging to see if there is a fix.
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0B/dp/B073SB2MXT/
M.2 Variant is $10 cheaper too.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B073SB2MXT/ref=ord_cart_shr?_encoding=UTF8&amp;smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&amp;th=1
OP get yourself an M.2 NVMe drive. It won't take up any space and is a massive performance improvement from those HDDs. A rig with those specs has gotta be running off m.2:
Top 3 "very good / better / best" choices:
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-970-EVO-1TB-MZ-V7E1T0BW/dp/B07BN4NJ2J/
https://www.amazon.com/Black-500GB-High-Performance-NVMe-PCIe/dp/B07BR9FV1C/
https://www.amazon.com/XPG-SX8200-480GB-Gen3x4-ASX8200NP-480GT-C/dp/B07BLMP9ZT/
http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Barracuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST3000DM001/dp/B005T3GRLY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1394238988&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=3tb
These are cheaper, and faster, and you won't have to shuck them. I have a RAID5 with 8 of them and it's been running great.
Buy moar drives!
Seriously, that's it, this problem isn't going to go away. Personally for low budget storage I recommend getting one of these (if your Mac is USB3 enabled):
http://amzn.com/B0051U1XMS
And a couple of these (3TB is currently the price/capacity sweet spot):
http://amzn.com/B005T3GRLY
And store them in some of these when you're not working with them:
http://amzn.com/B00CYW12TK
I have a closet literally full of drives at my office. I mean hundreds of them. And that's not even counting the online storage. You don't want to know how much my studio has spent on hard drives over the past decade.
Edit: Protip, if you're going to work with a bare drive storage system, always backup your working drive.
Like, buy two 3TB drives, call them "mydrive_A" and "mydrive_B", plug them both into that dock, and then just make the B drive a mirror of the A drive. I am a huge fan of this storage method but you've got basically no protection for those drives -- do not find yourself in a situation where your footage is only on one of them.
Isn't it already $59.99 on Amazon? actually wait... its $0.99 more but you get Far Cry 4. $0.99 for Far Cry 4 is a great deal.
I got the Crucial MX100 256GB when it was on sale for $109.99. If there's no rush, I would recommend waiting for a better brand name to go on sale like that again.
Been using the MX100 for about a week now and it's fantastic, cloned my OS/Apps from my HDD and everything works like a charm.
Get a SSD. There really is no reason to install a normal HDD anymore because SSDs have gotten so cheap. I got this Crucial MX100. It was literally plug and play for me on my 2012 MBP. There was no need to update any firmware, and this particular SSD is great. It performs near the level of the Samsung 840 EVO while being quite cheaper. After installing the SSD, my MBP was given new life. It is much snappier now making me realize that the slow 5400 rpm HDD was a huge bottleneck to begin with.
this game has long been Pay2Win.
invest in an SSD and youll play the game much better.
http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX100-adapter-Internal-CT256MX100SSD1/dp/B00KFAGCWK
Lets look at the Dell Optiplex GX280 Full Tower. According to CNet it came out June of 2004 so lets just pretend that was ten years ago instead of eleven. My parents bought a Dell Dimensions 8300 sometime around 2003 which had two SATA ports on the motherboard (The hard drive and CD drive were IDE) but since I never got it to work, I'll skip to the all SATA model. This is what I would do to determine the reasonable upgrade cost.
So here are all the cost estimates.
Total Cost = 296.54 with all extra costs added. Someone not as throughout as myself can cut costs on a lot of the things on this list. I would show this breakdown to the customer and explain why it might be more cost efficient to purchase a new machine (or have me build them one) and we could go from there.
Yes, Firecuda SSHD is still the best option for the money without spending the same amount as you spent for your console on SSD. Although there's currently a discount on 1TB SSD on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-2-5-Inch-Height-SDSSDHII-960G-G25/dp/B00M8ABHVQ
My recommendation is to buy Firecuda and be happy.
Here you go.
Most programs and windows. Not games so much. Heres a 500gb SSD that doesn't completely break the bank.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RJS55D/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_ABQDDbZDZP397
I bought this one recently. Its a little expensive, but its an official one made for xbox one by seagate, so decided to spend the extra money to get it as i had gift cards i needed to use anyway.
If you want one thats much cheaper that should work just as good, get this one:
Drive: https://www.amazon.com/Silicon-Power-Performance-Internal-SP256GBSS3A55S25/dp/B075RJS55D/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1548282759&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=ssd+256
Case: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1548283038&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=ssd+enclosure
Why not buy one new?
Silicon Power 256GB SSD 3D NAND With R/W Up To 550/450MB/s A55 SLC Cache Performance Boost SATA III 2.5" 7mm (0.28") Internal Solid State Drive (SP256GBSS3A55S25) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RJS55D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_B806AbHMAB1AP
Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized For SSD, Support UASP SATA III] Black (EC-UASP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
This is the exact setup I just bought for my 1TB Xbox One. PUBG is amazing as well as I found a massive improvment in Tera Online. I also just needed more space.
SSD $59.50
Enclosure $8.99
I have this setup myself on original xbox, works great.
If it's a 2.5-inch drive, the MX500 is the best. I have three of them.
It it's an M.2 slot, then perhaps the Intel 660p. I have one of these.
This , SSD with normal HDD for storage is much better . I would recommend the Sandisk 120GB https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-120GB-SDSSDA-120G-G26-Newest-Version/dp/B01F9G414U/ though .
Well said, also on a sidenote, this is my first post, and I'm not quite sure if the link is attached to the post, just in case here it is:
https://www.amazon.ca/Crucial-MX300-275GB-Internal-Solid/dp/B01IAGSD5O/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511324342&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=ssd
No, SanDisk caccapupù.
Prova con questo: https://www.amazon.it/Crucial-MX300-Interno-SATA-Pollici/dp/B01IAGSD5O/ref=s9_simh_gw_g147_i2_r?pf_rd_m=A11IL2PNWYJU7H&amp;pf_rd_s=&amp;pf_rd_r=S6PS1S7YJ7WDTAXBWJVN&amp;pf_rd_t=36701&amp;pf_rd_p=6bd4f0a5-b28d-436a-99f6-10d6a633030d&amp;pf_rd_i=desktop
Quasi buono quanto un Samsung Evo, paghi un po' di più ma almeno hai un qualcosa di qualità e duraturo.
Mai risparmiare troppo su un SSD :)
As long as you have some spare SATA ports, go get yourself a cheap SSD. I wouldn't put anything too big in there.
&#x200B;
This was on the deals subreddit for BAPC
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01IAGSD5O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
67 on amazon : https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-BarraCuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST2000DM006/dp/B01IEKG402/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492182774&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ST2000DM006
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01LQQH86A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_560uDbKJEGEDN
That should help
IMO, Western Digital is better than Seagate. I have had so many Seagate hard drives fail on me I now refuse to buy them. That said, every hard drive will eventually fail, so plan accordingly and don't cry too much when it happens. I am getting this guy once the 4.5 firmware comes out.
About two months ago, the SSD on my main computer died. The replacement just came in the mail. I should be resuming my regular posts here within a few days.
On a side note, has anybody had any experience with this particular SSD failing suddenly?
What are you going on about? $125 is a steal for a 1TB SSD. He went EVO because that's what he could get. He obviously wasn't in a store where he had options.
For reference:
Samsung 850 EVO - 1TB $318.77 @ Amazon
Samsung 850 PRO - 1TB $419.19 @ Amazon
The 2.5 inch Samsung 850 evo is 250 dollars right now for the 1TB version (50% off). The m.2 form factor version is also 250 dollars. I just bought mine (the m.2) like 10 minutes ago. You also get a free copy of Watch Dogs 2 apparently, but I didn't get mine because I'm not in the US :(
EDIT: Here is a list of all the SSDs that samsung has ATM. Some of them have discounts.
As a gen1 Pro owner my take is that the only reason to get the Gen2 Pro is if you are running Plex Server on it or you require the IR receiver. You can expand the internal storage with a USB3.0 flash drive. The old specs listed a 128GB limit. The new specs mention a specific 128 drive as a recommended model but do not mention a storage limit. Still for $28 on Amazon you can have 144GB storage.
I did a bit of research on this. The two main competitors for the low profile USB 3.0 usb sticks are the Lexar S45:
https://www.amazon.com/Lexar-JumpDrive-128GB-Flash-Drive/dp/B012PKV7RC
And the SanDisk Ultra Fit:
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-SDCZ43-128G-GAM46-Newest-Version/dp/B01BGTG2A0/
They are similar in price (around 30 dollars). I went with the Lexar because it seemed to be slightly faster in head to head benchmarks and the profile of it is flat. The primary downside when I got it is that it has a VERY bright blue LED that flashes with activity. However, I simply put some electrical tape over it and it almost entirely blocks it.
For SDCards, it seems the fastest performers are the Samsung EVO Plus:
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-mc128d-128gb-Uhs-i-Adapter/dp/B0118LR9Z8/
It has the fastest read speed at 80 MB/sec, which is still quite a bit slower than the USB which I usually benchmark at around 150 MB/Sec max, and the internal memory is faster than both, and much better read speed (so prioritize putting games etc that have longer loading times or require writing in the internal memory).
Whatever you do, don't get the Ultra Fit drive from SanDisk. I've got a 128GB model, and even on idle, the thing gets hot. Like, stupid hot.
Also on Amazon for the same price: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M8ABHVQ/ref=pe_825000_114657650_TE_item
You can also use 15OFFNOW for another up to $20 off if you have PrimeNow available in your area.
I've bought both the Samsung 840 and 850 evo cards and both work great. Amazon seems to have the 500gb version 43% off right now so that might be worth something.
I have this one. 1TB Samsung Evo.
Is it overkill? Probably. I only use like 250GB. I just like not having to run out of space. Is it pricey? You bet it is. (Mayor White. Vote for me!). It was $550 when I got it. Worth every penny. Just make sure to apply the latest firmware, and install Trim Enabler. Awesome drive.
This isn't that bad for a 1TB SSD
It uses a standard 2.5" HDD. You can easily swap it out for a 2.5" SSD. Amazon currently has a 1TB SSD for $250.
It has to be USB 3.0. Seagate has a few good ones, that are fairly affordable. I have a 5tb one: Seagate Expansion 5TB Desktop External Hard Drive USB 3.0 (STEB5000100) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TKFEEBW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nXDIybHTGKR9J
Not necessarily. They are two different categories. For e.g., I got this for my xbox last month and its USB 3 : http://www.amazon.in/Seagate-Expansion-Desktop-External-STEB5000100/dp/B00TKFEEBW?tag=googinhydr18418-21&amp;tag=googinkenshoo-21&amp;ascsubtag=fa1852ce-dac7-4d84-ae21-3a4cdb5e492b
here's one for $130 on amazon, I got a deal on mine though a few months back.
u/pastramiswissrye is totally right in that lights, sound, lenses, and media are all more important than the best camera.
My personal favorite camera in that price range is the Panasonic G7 and a good 12-35 lens. The G7 is like the little brother to the GH4 as it does 4k and just is missing some of the more pro features and is $600 for the camera. The lens is another $600 but you could just use the kit lens and upgrade your lens later.
Continuing with what Pastrami said, you should have good audio, lights, and media storage, in addition to the camera and lens. For audio, the rode videomic pro is a good all-around shotgun mic that you can put on a boom pole for good short film on location sound, however you will need someone to help hold your boom pole.
For lights, a good reflector will help you use the sun as a light when shooting outside on location for a short film. If you are in a studio, this four socket CFL light kit will go a long way to help. I personally use one of them and they are great for the price. Just pop in four cfl bulbs and you are good to go. If you would prefer LED lights which are smaller and don't heat up as much, but are pricer, you can get this LED studio light kit.
On the media storage side of things, you are going to want to pick up a few of these 64GB U3 SD cards for use with your G7 or any other new camera you get. Especially if you plan on shooting in 4K.
If you are going to shoot in 4K, your file sizes are going to go way up and you are definitely going to need to get more hard drive space on your computer. You may even have to upgrade your computer to handle 4K video editing. It all depends on what you have and what you want to do.
On the editing side, I personally use Final Cut Pro X on my Mac. It is $300 but a great piece of editing software, used by pros. If you are on a mac but don't want to spend money, just use iMovie, it will probably do what you need it to do unless you edit in 4K. On the windows side, some people use sony vegas, some people use AVID, some people use premiere pro, there is a bunch of them out there and you kind of just have to choose one. (I have never used any of them)
Like he said, there is no canon r6i. I assume you mean T6i, but you still need to do some more research. I hope this helps!
Crouton works with external drives, although I'd recommend a low-profile USB 3 flash drive (eg, Samsung, Sandisk) over an SD card. I found Crouton from an SD card to be painfully slow any time something had to do much I/O like program updates.
I haven't tried an XBox 360 controller, but my DS4 works plugged in without any extra software. I would guess that it will work fine.
The i3, in addition to being a faster CPU, has twice the EUs in its iGPU compared to the Celeron and they're clocked ~15% higher. Probably won't make a difference it what you're playing, but if you want to try running more graphically-demanding games it would be useful.
This one works for me. High capacity, small, and affordable. https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-128GB-Flash-Drive/dp/B01BGTG2A0.
That sounds like a complicated solution (e.g. prone to failure) for a simple problem. The simplest solution would simply be to inform whoever is managing the laptops that they must be online on a schedule for backups and failure to adhere to that could result in data loss. The next easiest would be to add a backup drive to each laptop. Low profile thumb drives, SSD cards, etc. Are all inexpensive. Lastly, adding some sort of NAS device that they could connect to locally if needed would still be simpler than some sort of Silicon Valley storage solution.
Edit:
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-128GB-Flash-Drive/dp/B01BGTG2A0/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=low+profile+thumb+drive&amp;qid=1558803321&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=low+profile+thumb+drive&amp;sr=8-8
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-MicroSD-Adapter-MB-ME128GA-AM/dp/B06XWZWYVP/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=ssd+card&amp;qid=1558803377&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
I don't really think that's a good price for it. You could buy the base version of the Helios 300 with 16GB of RAM and 256GB NVMe SSD and upgrade it yourself for less money.
Laptop - $1100
1TB SSD -$150
1TB HDD - $50
32 GB RAM - $135
Total - $1435
Also keep in mind that the parts I have picked are very high quality parts, much higher quality than the one which comes out of the box if you buy the $1650 one.
https://www.amazon.com/Acer-Predator-i7-9750H-Keyboard-PH315-52-78VL/dp/B07QXLFLXT/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=predator+helios+300&qid=1574791244&sr=8-1
https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-Vengeance-Performance-260-Pin-CMSX32GX4M2A2666C18/dp/B01BGZEVHU/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2PZZP5CYPX5DT&keywords=32gb+sodimm+ddr4&qid=1574791270&sprefix=32+gb+sodimm%2Caps%2C513&sr=8-4
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-970-EVO-1TB-MZ-V7E1T0BW/dp/B07BN217QG/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=1tb+970+evo&qid=1574791355&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sr=8-1
https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-BarraCuda-Internal-Drive-2-5-Inch/dp/B07H28QRKN/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=1tb+seagate+barracuda+2.5&qid=1574791376&sr=8-3
Samsung 970 EVO 500GB is only $90 from Amazon. GLWS!
Wow! There is currently a deal for the 500GB version on Amazon for $147.99 but the 1TB version is $354!
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So go to Amazon if you're looking for the 500GB, but go to Newegg if you want the 1TB
First things first- a Solid State Drive(From now on referred to as SSD) is a storage device with relatively high speeds and lower potential storage capacity for the price, compared to a Hard Disc Drive(Now on referred to as HDD).
You’re generally not going to need an SSD for most games, as the speed of storage isn’t really dependant on your storage. Most data used by programs is loaded into RAM, which is much faster. The only benefits are cases where you may have a game with long loading times because there’s a lot of content to load into the RAM. This is fine though, sometimes it’s nice to have those short loading times for multiplayer games. In actuality, it’s best to have an SSD for operating system storage, so instead of a computer taking a few minutes to start up, it only takes a few seconds.
There are two product types of SSD you can purchase, and two form factors (sizes) you can purchase. If you can update with which case and motherboard you have(and also any other storage that’s coming with the computer, I could have a better idea of what you have to work with, however you’re probably looking for something along the lines of SATA, 2.5” and around 500gb. This is a good option if you have one(or more) HDDs to store pictures, videos, documents, etc.
If you don’t have other storage devices, a 1tb equivalent would be preferable. Alternatively, you could purchase the 500gb SSD and some HDDs to back it up. Or even go a bit further and only purchase a 250gb SSD to hold ONLY your OS and a couple other things.
In terms of price, keep in mind that price for digital storage(SSD) has dropped significantly in the last year, and is forecasted to drop another 10% this year possibly.
TL;DR: Search “500gb SATA 2.5 SSD” online and buy anything from Samsung, Western Digital, Crucial or ADATA.
Hope this helps!
Is £69 a good price for a 500GB SSD? this is one part that I've never looked into.
Yeah I just searched 500GB SSD on amazon and found another for £63 and a 480GB SSD for £55, this price doesn't seem special, is there something I'm missing?
Highest capacity one you can afford. Crucial MX series are known to be awesome and relatively cheap
https://www.amazon.de/Crucial-MX500-CT500MX500SSD1-Internes-NAND/dp/B0784SLQM6/
1TB models are quite a bit more expensive tho.
I have a few thoughts on this build so I will go through the list you have :)
CPU - For a budget gaming build, this is an excellent choice! And when you do get a dedicated graphics card, you'll have the extra CPU power over the Ryzen 3 model if you need it.
Motherboard - I'm a fan of ASRock, though DO NOT GET THIS MOTHERBOARD. Because it does not include video outputs, making it completely useless without a graphics card to connect to a monitor. This ASRock motherboard also only has 2 slots for RAM, so you'd have to completely replace them if you want to upgrade to 16 GB (8 GB of ram is sufficient for about 90% games, though the newer ones will be using most of it). I would recommend:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XF49QNM/?tag=pcpapi-20
As it has built-in video output and 4 slots for RAM.
RAM - As I said, 8GB will be plenty for a vast majority of games. Though, as some others have commented, you really do need faster RAM at the 3000hz + range to truly take advantage of your APU since it does not have built-in memory like graphics cards do and will be relying on your system memory.
Storage - If you want Samsung, get Samsung. If you just want an SSD, I recommend:
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-500GB-NAND-Internal/dp/B0784SLQM6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521478806&amp;sr=1-1-spons&amp;keywords=crucial+mx500&amp;psc=1
Since it is both newer, $25 cheaper, and performs practically the same.
Case this is entirely up to you. Go with what you want! :)
Power supply 550W is plenty for whatever you will throw at your build.
No offense, but that is crazy talk.
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An SSD (well, technically you should go for nvme these days, as there is little price difference) is the single most performance boosting thing you can do for your computer if you really use a 7200RPM platter disk in 2019, in terms of overall performance.
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Spend those 250$ on something like this; https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-970-EVO-1TB-MZ-V7E1T0BW/dp/B07BN217QG - you can thank me later.
Buy this and take it out of the enclosure (plenty youtube guides) and then install inside your PC.
https://www.amazon.com/Elements-Desktop-Hard-Drive-WDBWLG0080HBK-NESN/dp/B07D5V2ZXD
WD Mybook 8TB for £119.99 (until midnight UK time on the 16th of July):
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01LWVT81X/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1634&amp;creative=6738&amp;creativeASIN=B01LWVT81X&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=amoves-21&amp;linkId=109e41ed89969139d870a312cd99835b
We can finally feel like Americans for a day with these bargain prices. You need to sign up for Prime as well but if you don't have an active prime membership, you can also start a new Prime trial if you haven't used your 30-day trial in the last 365 days. I just checked and these are the lowest prices these 8TB hard drives have ever been sold for in the UK.
They also have the WD Elements Desktop 8TB on a Prime Day sale for £124:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07FNK6QMT/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=amoves-21&amp;camp=1634&amp;creative=6738&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;creativeASIN=B07FNK6QMT&amp;linkId=7a13bc41e7e1867b91417ef49df553e1
From what I've read it's quite similar to the MyBook but doesn't offer backup, encryption and password protection by default. Both are good for schucking. The main advantage of the Elements Desktop 8TB seems to be the ease of adding another drive in its case later on if you decide to schuck it.
The Seagate Expansion 8TB is on sale for only £109 and I've heard only good things about it in comparison to their smaller drives which seem to be problematic. I went with the MyBook 8TB myself.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07DQBFQ2D/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=amoves-21&amp;camp=1634&amp;creative=6738&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;creativeASIN=B07DQBFQ2D&amp;linkId=28f3f183cd50ec9d3adf5c102ece5daa
The only other good deal I found was the Western Digital My Passport 4TB Portable. Still debating whether to buy it as well or get another Mybook 8tb. It is currently on sale for only £75 which is the second lowest price ever for it in the UK:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01LQQH86A/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=amoves-21&amp;camp=1634&amp;creative=6738&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;creativeASIN=B01LQQH86A&amp;linkId=54e3c55ae8c90b3e6a3f373dfb0b7335
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-960-EVO-Internal-MZ-V6E250BW/dp/B01LYFKX41/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505048288&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=960+evo
10$ more > allmost x2 speed > imo
Buy this Samsung 960 M.2 SDD if you really love her
Having the OS on an SSD is a must on a modern system. An HDD can make even the most powerful systems feel old and sluggish. An SSD will make even the most underpowered systems feel new and snappy. The M.2 interface is then that much better than a standard SSD. And they are cheap.
How does this M.2 compare to this one?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073SB2MXT/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Total: ~385
The battery I got along with it was barely used at 21 cycles, but I wanted the 9-cell for college, so there's that. I also added in a quad core i7, but I don't think that's necessary.
> my HD is only 60 or so gigs
wtf
here, take this
http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Barracuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST3000DM001/dp/B005T3GRLY
Honestly you can build your own, this way you can get a warranty on a good performance drive and if it fails, just swap it out. Though here are the two options I would recommend:
Option 1 build your own: Buy a 2-4TB WD black gaming HDD (5 year warranty) or a 7200rpm 2-3TB Seagate Barracuda it is much cheaper but has less warranty offerings. I say up to 3TB with the Seagate as its 4TB model is not 7200rpm. Finally buy a USB 3.0 cooling enclosure, I use this one. Though you can find numerous ones all over the internet. With that enclosure you need no tools except a screw driver to open the case, then its simply insert/snap and close, total install time is 1 minute. This is the route I would take for performance and warranty offerings.
Option 2 retail versions: If performance is not an issue then really any drive will do just make sure its over 300GB and USB 3.0. A good cheap retail one is Seagate
LINKS FOR EVERYTHING
2 Way SLI - 780 Ti Superclocked edition
Intel i7 3820 3.6GHz
Corsair Hydro Series Extreme Performace Liquid CPU Cooler H100i
2 packs of Corsair Dominator Platinum 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1600MHz (PC3 12800) Memory
Gigabyte GA-X79-UP4 Motherboard
Samsung 840 EVo 250GB SSD
Beats Pro Over-Ear
Male White Fiberglass Mannequin Head
Oculus Rift Development Kit 2
Deluxe Triple Monitor Stand Desk Clamp
Seagate 3TB Barracude
Corsaie Air Series SP120mm Quiet Edition
Rosewill 1000Watt Bronze Certified PSU
NZXT Phantom 630 Gunmetal Edition
Three Acer H236HLbid 23" LCD IPS monitors
Wallart USA Panorama New York
Blue Snowball Microphone
Flexible Gooseneck Microphone Holder
Microphone table clamp
Razer Lycosa Mirror special Edition
Razer Abyssus Optical PC Gaming Mouse
Xbox one controller
IKEA Tables (both 73" and 96" are used)
IKEA Table legs (8 used)
What I would do:
http://www.amazon.com/Asus-VS247H-P-23-6-Inch-Full-HD-LED-Lit/dp/B005BZNDS0
http://gpuboss.com/gpus/GeForce-GTX-770-vs-GeForce-GTX-760
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Electronics-EVO-Series-2-5-Inch-MZ-7TE120BW/dp/B00E3W15P0
Other than those three points, I think that you've done a good job building a future-proof machine.
Lots of motherfuckers like to use SSD's for boot drives, they load on an OS to the SSD alongside the programs they use the most, maybe a game or two if you can fit them on there, then they have super fast boot times, and fast load times for the programs. Say it would be 45 seconds to boot with that barracuda, it would only take 5-15 seconds with a decent SSD.
If you don't care about load and boot times its no biggie, but personally I have no regrets adding an 120gb SSD as a boot drive. Now I've got my WD blue, which is the Western digital equivalent to the barracuda, as a secondary drive. It can be a pain having to manage a second drive once in a while, but the fast boot up times and load times are worth it in my opinion.
If you're in the market for an SSD and you aren't sure what to get, the Samsung 840 EVO is a safe bet. That's the one I've got, and it seems to be reasonably priced, and I can vouch for it. There are a hell of a lot of options for SSDs though, so definitely look around if you are considering one.
Additionally, the 120GB version is 37% off:
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Electronics-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-7TE120BW/dp/B00E3W15P0/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408548878&amp;sr=1-1
Here's my chat log. TL;DR it comes with the game code
04:21 PM PST Marc(Amazon): Hello there! My name is Marc. I hope you are doing well in this beautiful day! I will do my best to assist you with your concern.
04:21 PM PST Demetri: Hi Marc
04:22 PM PST Demetri: I was looking at the Samsung 120gb SSD that is advertised with the promotion for Far Cry 4
And just wanted to ask if this ssd for sure comes with this code or not
04:22 PM PST Marc(Amazon): Can you send me a link to that promotion so that I can check?
04:22 PM PST Demetri: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-120GB-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-7TE120BW/dp/B00E3W15P0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417133211&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=samsung+120gb+ssd
04:23 PM PST Demetri: Honestly, I've been on reddit seeing that some people are claiming they have spoken to one of you guys and you confirm that this deal is real
and some have said it doesnt qualify
04:24 PM PST Marc(Amazon): It does qualify Demetri. The download code will be emailed to you when the item will be shipped.
04:25 PM PST Marc(Amazon): To receive the Bonus with Purchase:
04:25 PM PST Demetri: And we're for sure talking about the 120gb sized ssd, correct?
04:26 PM PST Marc(Amazon): Yes, the item that you are looking right now.
04:26 PM PST Demetri: Okay, thank you so much Marc! Thats all the questions I have.
04:27 PM PST Marc(Amazon): You're welcome. Just follow the instructions on how to place the order so that you will be able to take advantage of the promo.
To receive the Bonus with Purchase:
Get SSD for windows and 1TB HDD for rest.
It's also $99 at amazon http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX100-adapter-Internal-CT256MX100SSD1/dp/B00KFAGCWK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408548494&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=mx100+crucial
15.6" Suggestions| Lenovo U530 59428052| Lenovo U530 59428053| Lenovo Flex 2 15 ^Signature ^Edition | Dell Inspiron I7547-3020SLV | ASUS Transformer Book Flip TP500L | ASUS N550JK ^suggested ^by ^construktz
---|---|----|----|----|----|----
CPU| i7-4510U | i7-4510U | i7-4510U | i5-4210U| i5-4210U | i7-4700HQ
GPU| Intel 4400 | Nvidia GT 730M ^(can play most games on low settings) | Intel 4400| Intel 4400| Intel 4400 | Nvidia GTX 850M
Passmark CPU Mark | 3969 | 3969 | 3969 | 3422 | 3422 | 7906
storage | 500GB HDD + 8GB SSD | 500GB HDD + 8GB SSD| 500GB HDD + 8GB SSD | 1TB HDD| 1TB HDD | 1TB HDD
ram | 8GB| 8GB | 8GB| 6GB| 8GB | 8GB
battery | ^Can't ^find ^any ^review-based ^battery ^life, ^should ^be ^slightly ^more ^than ^the ^730M ^GPU ^version| 8hr | 4hr | 6hr customer claim | 4-5hr Amazon Customer Reviews | 3hr Amazon Customer Review
weight | 5.07lbs| 5.07lbs | 5.59lbs| 4.5lbs| 4.95lbs | 6lbs
screen | 1920x1080 touch| 1920x1080 touch | 1920x1080 IPS touch| 1920x1080 IPS touch | 1920x1080 touch | 1920x1080 IPS
price | 839| 899 | 699.99| 649.99 | 629.99 Amazon or 699.99 ^(Signature ^Edition) | 929
My suggestion would be the Dell Inspiron I7547-3020SLV. A 15.6" laptop at 649.99 that has an IPS display for great viewing angles and color. 4.5lbs and 6hr of battery life fit your needs.
If you'd like longer battery life and more portability:
13.3" Suggestions | MacBook Air 13.3 i5 2014 (Refurbished) | ASUS VivoBook Q301LA| ASUS TP300LA ^Signature ^Edition
---|---|----|----|----
CPU | i5-4260U | i5-4200U | i5-4210U
Passmark CPU Mark| 3640 | 3292| 3422
storage | 128GB SSD | 500GB HDD| 500GB HDD
ram | 4GB| 6GB | 8GB
battery | 12hr 20min | 5hr 38min| 6hr
weight | 2.96lbs | 3.8lbs| 3.92lbs
screen | 1440x900| 1366x768 touch| 1920x1080 IPS touch
price | 849.99 | 599.99| 699.99
"The reason is Apple has a really great refurbishment process and policy: Refurbs come with a new outer shell, new battery, and the same one-year warranty that new hardware comes with." And install Windows on it if you like (would probably shorten battery life but with 12h20m it can't be too bad). The 128GB SSD would hold a few programs and externals are down to 59.99 for 1TB and at 5.4oz/.34lb you could (gently) toss one into your laptop bag.
Microsoft Store Signature Edition means zero bloatware.
Each specification cites its source with a link (which will usually lead you to a review) unless that source is the product link (at the top of the chart).
This article was helpful Ultrabook Review: Best ultrabooks under $800 (or $1000) in 2014
A HDD can be the bottleneck of any computer. If you end up with a HDD laptop and find it to be slow, you may want to switch out the HDD for a SDD like this 256GB for $109 or 512GB for $189. Or get a hybrid hdd+sdd drive like this TOSHIBA MQ01ABD100H 1TB+8GB for $84.
edit: formatting
Possibly this one...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RJS55D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9cF9AbAFFD6DZ
me too, totally convinced.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075RJS55D/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
it's lit
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075RJS55D/ref=psdcmw_1292116011_t1_B07P1Y853M =
Chinese SSD are cheaper than hard disk.
SSD: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075RJS55D/ref=pd_gwm_simh_0?pf_rd_p=f9ea941c-301a-45bf-9233-50adcf132422&amp;pf_rd_s=grid-14&amp;pf_rd_t=Gateway&amp;pf_rd_i=mobile-unrec&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=CH9KA40STEAABKDPV6BC&amp;pd_rd_wg=zsgcy&amp;pf_rd_r=CH9KA40STEAABKDPV6BC&amp;pd_rd_r=CH9KA40STEAABKDPV6BC&amp;pf_rd_p=f9ea941c-301a-45bf-9233-50adcf132422&amp;pd_rd_w=z4isw&amp;pd_rd_i=B075RJS55D
Enclosure: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=pd_gwm_simh_0?pf_rd_p=fc67834d-1a4e-443d-a4d4-b4f1372fb3cf&amp;pf_rd_s=grid-15&amp;pf_rd_t=Gateway&amp;pf_rd_i=mobile-unrec&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=CH9KA40STEAABKDPV6BC&amp;pd_rd_wg=zsgcy&amp;pf_rd_r=CH9KA40STEAABKDPV6BC&amp;pd_rd_r=CH9KA40STEAABKDPV6BC&amp;pf_rd_p=fc67834d-1a4e-443d-a4d4-b4f1372fb3cf&amp;pd_rd_w=RJv6E&amp;pd_rd_i=B00OJ3UJ2S
me too, totally convinced.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075RJS55D/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
They're all over Amazon.
Samsung 860 EVO 1TB - $168
Crucial MX500 1TB - $160
WD Blue 3D NAND 1TB - $150
SanDisk 1TB Ultra - $160
you can get a 1 TB SSD for under 150. 2 TBs are between 3-400
where are you getting those numbers?
https://smile.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-500GB-NAND-Internal/dp/B077SF8KMG
Shit 2 TB 850 EVO is under 300
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0786QNSBD/ref=twister_B079P94LLX
Crucial MX500 1TB 3D NAND SATA 2.5 Inch Internal SSD for $162.79 on Amazon.ca
bruh https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-500GB-SSD-WDS500G2B0B/dp/B073SBX6TY/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=sata+ssd+500gb&qid=1567110811&s=gateway&sr=8-10
Yes!
Actually mine came with a WD Blue 3D NAND 500GB PC SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s, M.2 2280 - WDS500G2B0B which I changed with a Samsung EVO 970.
There's no difference in price between a SATA SSD and a non-NVME M.2 SSD. An NVME M.2 SSD is a different story though.
Edit: They edited their comment to include nvme after I replied
Guess you are not gaming or using other intensive programs. What about the Asus F510UA?
It is thin and light at only 3.7lbs. At $509, it's the cheapest laptop with i5-8250U and 8GB RAM, and the FHD screen is a big plus. Normally I would suggest its $599 variation with SSD pre-installed but since it's out of stock, I guess you will need to find one on your own, like this
Honestly, your life will be much easier if you just do a fresh install of windows when installing a new drive. While you can clone or migrate installations it's just not perfect.
From checking the spec sheet for the g7 it supports m.2 ssd (which goes over SATA) as well as pci 3 NVMe (which is i think around 5x faster than SATA and runs off of PCIe lanes).
A couple examples of what should work with that laptop NVMe and SATA-AHCI
There is definitely a way to cut corners even further while getting higher performance at the same time. Especially since you don't mind going used.
PC: This $200 Dell Optiplex. It comes with an i7 2600 (4 cores 8 threads), 8GB of RAM, a 500GB HDD, and Windows 10 Pro.
GPU: This $226 Gigabyte GTX 1050 Ti.
Total: $426 ($496 if with monitor below)
This is much better bang for your buck and it will definitely work without issue. The CPU is still very strong and goes toe to toe with present-day ones. The GPU is a little better as well and has 2GB more vram, and the stock PSU is more than enough to handle it (if unsure, get a 450W bronze). Consider getting a GTX 1060 6GB for roughly twice the general performance (if getting the GTX 1060 consider settling for a nice 500W bronze or a higher wattage/rating if you plan on overclocking later).
Please also consider getting an SSD to clone the OS on your hard drive to it (here's a Silicon Power 256GB for $65). You can even fit in a cheaper monitor with 1080p, 60Hz, and IPS if you want to. This one's on sale for $70 at Best Buy.
You can also consider getting this $370 GTX 1060 6GB.
Comparison between GTX 1050 Ti and GTX 1060 6GB.
New Total (if GTX 1060 6GB added, along with monitor): $640
Silicon Power 256GB SSD 3D NAND With R/W Up To 550/450MB/s A55 SLC Cache Performance Boost SATA III 2.5" 7mm (0.28") Internal Solid State Drive (SP256GBSS3A55S25) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RJS55D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QNn2AbFXZK9X0
I took a gamble on this one and it works perfectly.
1TB is overkill. This is the cheapest option.
256gb SSD
Silicon Power 256GB SSD 3D NAND A55 SLC Cache Performance Boost SATA III 2.5" 7mm (0.28") Internal Solid State Drive (SP256GBSS3A55S25) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RJS55D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xid8Bb43QBJW7
Case you need to install it
Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized For SSD, Support UASP SATA III] Black (EC-UASP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cld8Bb7RJJNAJ
If you insist on getting 1TB (still need case)
Silicon Power 1TB SSD 3D NAND A55 SLC Cache Performance Boost SATA III 2.5" 7mm (0.28") Internal Solid State Drive (SP001TBSS3A55S25) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B4G19X3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mrd8BbVSPCCQ7
38$ for a 256gb silicon power sata 3 drive. This is not expensive.
If you want to go cheap...$29.99
https://www.amazon.com/Silicon-Power-Performance-Internal-SP256GBSS3A55S25/dp/B075RJS55D/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=ssd&amp;qid=1555536783&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-13
Also need an enclosure, $8.99:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3ETX6BEBDH1ZB&amp;keywords=ssd+enclosure&amp;qid=1555536860&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=ssd+enc%2Caps%2C210&amp;sr=8-4
This + This Should work fine and fall within your price range @ $65usd.
The SSD I purchased (arrived yesterday! works like a charm) cost me about $60 total, here is a link to the drive and the enclosure I bought. Happy PUBGing!
Looks good, though that seems awfully expensive for a 1050ti!
You can get a 1660 6Gb for very close to the same price
https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-Graphics-Windforce-Gv-N1660OC-6GD/dp/B07P76G428/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=1060+6gb&amp;qid=1562235488&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
Check the userbenchmark results, it's a way way way better card for an extra $9
https://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-GTX-1660-vs-Nvidia-GTX-1050-Ti/4038vs3649
Edit : also if you forget about going 1 x ssd and 1x mechanical drive, add an extra $10 you can get a 1TB SSD, so you can have the extra performance for everything rather than just your favourite couple of games. Yeah you lose 240gb but is that a big loss?
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-NAND-SATA-Internal/dp/B077SF8KMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=1tb+ssd&amp;qid=1562235654&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;psc=1
No difference in performance between the equivalent crucial sata drive. They're pretty comparable to the 860 as well.
If you'd prefer the traditional sata form factor the crucial drives are also the same price.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B077SF8KMG/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?pd_rd_i=B0784SLQM6&pf_rd_m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&pf_rd_p=dd8bce25-0727-4a5d-b121-eef3dd7bc606&pd_rd_wg=fDJiu&pf_rd_r=JKMYC9ZQFG7S9CMPEZE1&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_w=n6Vel&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pd_rd_r=fc4e427a-edb9-11e8-9729-43f65cfc73de&th=1
No you do not. Just the usb for the OS loading and your good. Here is a link to the 1 tb I got for about 135 from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077SF8KMG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Sony made it awesomely easy to perform this upgrade!
Solid build, and I really don't think you can get any better than this, however, I do have some things that I'd personally change.
I would ditch the HDD and go full SSD, like this Adata or even a Crucial MX500. I have an old 840 Evo 500 GB with tons of games (including large ones like Assetto Corsa, Cities Skylines, Euro Truck Sim 2, PUBG etc.), videos, etc. on it and I still have at least 80 GB free.
To me, it doesn't make sense to waste money on an HDD that you wouldn't buy otherwise, and use that on another fast 250+ GB of fast SSD space. I used to play games from an HDD. It didn't work 5 years ago and it surely still doesn't work well today. It was not fun crashing into concrete barriers on ArmA because it took too long to load the asset from disk. On a budget like this you have to make sacrifices, and I'd sacrifice space for speed.
Besides that, I think the case could be cheaper, but it may require a sale, such as this case that is currently $17 cheaper than the current one.
Hell, even at that price, you could justify getting a 240 GB Adata and another 480 GB Adata for 720 GB of SSD space for cheaper than this current build, unless the user wants to up their budget a little bit to get something like a 1 TB Crucial MX500 that's currently $99 on amazon.
Besides that though, I don't think there's much you can do.
External enclosure
Crucial MX500 1TB 3D NAND SATA 2.5 Inch Internal SSD - CT1000MX500SSD1(Z) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077SF8KMG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_16vRCbPKQ1FBB
I personally like the Seagate Barracuda Compute 4TB drives (for new 4TBs)
If you really want to splurge a bit, I highly recommend grabbing 4x 8TB WD Elements and "shucking" the disk out of them.
(These can be had for about $129.99/ea currently at BestBuy)
These are 8TB White (Red) Label Drives
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/wd-easystore-8tb-external-usb-3-0-hard-drive-black/5792401.p?skuId=5792401
Or
Amazon for $139.99
Western Digital 8TB Elements Desktop Hard Drive - USB 3.0 - WDBWLG0080HBK-NESN
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D5V2ZXD
WD Elements. I’ve been using these for years. My oldest one is a 1TB drive from 2010 that is still going. I currently have 6 of them and use a pair of 8 TB drives for photo storage.
Western Digital 8TB Elements Desktop Hard Drive - USB 3.0 - WDBWLG0080HBK-NESN https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D5V2ZXD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SAZzDbTPWKT4X
Since you are likely to buy an HDD with this, I would recommend a WD Elements instead since it comes with a drive + enclosure and is the cheapest per TB.
This 8TB is the cheapest per dollar per TB
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07D5V2ZXD
shucked WD portable HD's seem to be the way to go.
https://www.amazon.com/Elements-Desktop-Hard-Drive-WDBWLG0080HBK-NESN/dp/B07D5V2ZXD/ $140.
VS
https://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-Bare-Drives-Drive/dp/B07D3MWMNZ/ $190 for raw drive.
apparently the trade off is a reduced warranty.
personally, i always go with drives labeled for function. but my experience is using CCTV drives for VMS systems. customer would shit bricks if i plopped down and started prying HD's out of externals.
seems amazon.ca is matching ... all in all not the best BF here in canada :/
https://www.amazon.ca/Western-Digital-Elements-Desktop-Drive/dp/B07D5V2ZXD/ref=sr_1_cc_3?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1542949922&sr=1-3-catcorr&keywords=WD+8TB
Would it be wrong to buy from amazon for $149.99 ? Its not quite the $130 at black friday but isn't $149.99 better than $199.99 ?
https://www.amazon.com/Elements-Desktop-Hard-Drive-WDBWLG0080HBK-NESN/dp/B07D5V2ZXD
You can use something like luks on the usb drive so thats the whole drive is encrypted, and just unlock the partiton when you want to copy the files off.
Id just get those 8tb external hdds like this one You can put a few together if you want in raid, and ecrypt them all. They should get you about 100-150mB/s average speeds, and a few of them will be even faster if running at the same time.
https://www.amazon.com/Elements-Desktop-Hard-Drive-WDBWLG0080HBK-NESN/dp/B07D5V2ZXD/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=8tb+easystore&amp;qid=1573671718&amp;sr=8-2
Its $130 and backstock
This is even cheaper than the LaCie drive and does not use SMR.
WD 8TB mybook
www.amazon.com.au/dp/B07D5V2ZXD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_s.yXCb704GHVX
Yes, but I wouldn't buy them at this price. This is what they cost without a sale.
$150 8TB WD Elements (I bought it like a week ago.)
Also, I like your build, but I have a few suggestions
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CPU - AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor
Nice. While the 3700x is clearly better for video editing, better in this case only means that it saves you time. And while time is nice, I think it'd be better to use that $140 towards a second monitor.
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CPU Cooler - ARCTIC Freezer 34 eSports DUO CPU Cooler
I feel like you would be better off either buying a better cooler or just sticking with the stock cooler, because I don't think this one will let you oc much more than the Wraith.
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Motherboard - MSI MPG X570 GAMING PRO CARBON WIFI
I don't think your use-case justifies an X570 board, I'd recommend the Aorus Pro with WiFi or the Aorus Elite without WiFi, and I would again say to use the extra $100+ towards that second monitor.
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Memory - Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory
Nice. 3600 would be better, but if you can't find a 3600 set for a reasonable price, then you can try to manually oc this 3200 set to 3600.
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Storage - Crucial MX500 500 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive
This is really important and confused me when M.2 drives first came out. Some SSDs have different physical Form Factors and electrical Interfaces.
Two common Form Factors are 2.5 inch and M.2 - Again, these are just physical, not too much of a difference here other than size.
Two common Interfaces are SATA III and PCIe - This is the important part, because SATA III has a maximum theoretical throughput of 600 MB/s, while PCIe Gen 3 4x has a maximum theoretical throughput of about 4000 MB/s
In this case, the Crucial MX500 is an SSD that uses the M.2 Form Factor and SATA III Interface. If you check it's rated read/write speeds, it's about 560/510 MB/s respectively, which would make sense given that it's SATA III.
But this doesn't mean that all NVMe PCIe SSDs can achieve read and write speeds of 4000 MB/s. This just means that if you see an M.2 SATA SSD, you know that it's not gonna be faster than 600 MB/s, but an M.2 PCIe SSD can be faster than 600 MB/s.
Maybe I went on for too long, anyway, my SSD suggestions would be:
Samsung 970 Evo 1TB for $169.99, my personal preference, nice brand, nice speeds (3500MB/s read, 2500MB/s write), nice warranty (5 years)
Sabrent Rocket 1TB for 109.98, I haven't personally used it, not familiar with the brand but this specific product of theirs has a lot of positive reviews, similar speeds (3450MB/s read, 3000MB/s write), ok warranty (1 year?... some people question this)
Intel 660p 1TB for 89.99, I haven't personally used it, nice brand, nice speeds (1800MB/s read, 1800MB/s write), nice warranty (5 years)
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Video Card - MSI GeForce RTX 2070 8 GB Video Card
Strictly gaming performance wise, the 5700 XT is better than the 2070. On top of that, it's around $30 cheaper.
General performance is tough to compare. And on top of that, they each have their own individual benefits in different video editing programs.
If video editing is mostly just a side thing, then the 5700 XT looks like the card for you. But if you are serious about video editing, then you're gonna have to do some research on which GPU is best for you.
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Power Supply - EVGA SuperNOVA G3 650 W 80+ Gold Fully Modular
Nice, but it seams a little overpriced. The Corsair RM650x is also 80+ Gold and fully modular, but $20 cheaper.
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Monitor - I'm tired, so I'm going to bed, but I personally use 2 monitors:
27" 4k 60Hz for content consumption
24" 1080p 144Hz VA for that juicy smooth gaming
I wish I got a 27" 1080p so they'd match in size but the increased pixel density of the 24" is probably better anyway.
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Good luck with whatever you decide to build :D
It depends on what Apple is using inside the iMac. If they're using a standard SSD and connector like on the base model (slow) hard drive, then it could be possible. But if it's like the iMac Pro, Mac mini, and laptops where the SSD ls really a set of fast flash storage chips using a non-standard interface, it will not be possible or practical to replace them after purchase.
The safest/cheapest way to get more storage is to order the iMac with internal storage big enough to serve as a system drive for the entire life of the computer (probably minimum 256GB), then for the rest of your data, plug in external drives through the fast USB 3/Thunderbolt ports.
What you plug in should depend on the speed you need:
If you go NVMe for the speed, the nice thing is that those drives are rather small on the desk. That last box is 5.4 x 4.4 x 2.4 inches, and that's for 4 slots!
Sharing my experience with the Tomahawk B450.
I bought it before reaching this subreddit.
List of parts bought on amazon:
Msi B450 Tomahawk
Ryzen 3600
Patriot Viper 16GB X2
Samsung NVME 1TB 970
Parts I had and reused for the build:
Zotac GTX 1060 6GB
Cooler master Master Box Case
Seasonic Modular PSU (will update later on the exact model)
Samsung 1TB HDD
Parts I bought for the Bios Flashing:
Amd AM4 Athlon 200GE with Vega geaphics
After reading some of the posts here and the updates I figured I would need an updated bios on my motherboard before connecting the 3600.
Failing to find a store/repair shop to do the bios upgrade for me I bought the cheapest AM4 I could find in my region (Israel) to do the flashing.
I assembled the PC with one RAM stick, the Athlon 200GE, No Cmos Battery, connected to the DVI port of the motherboard, inserted a USB stick with the latest Bios from the MSI website ( 7C02v1A ), started the built in flash utility of the Bios, and waited.
The flashing process took a while, so for everyone doing the flashing "blind" (with the button and the USB method) you should wait at least 10 minutes between tries.
After the process finished, I shut down the computer, unplugged the PSU, did a power release (Clicked the power button a bunch of times), and swaped the Athlon with the 3600.
Booted UP, looked at the leds on the motherboard....CPU...VGA....and stuck.
Thought maybe I failed to do anything right, and then remembered the 3600 doesnt have GPU built in.
Truned off the PC, unplugged the PSU, did a power release (Clicked the power button a bunch of times), and Inserted the GTX 1060.
Connected the DVI cable to the GPU, turned on the PC, waited for the leds. And voila, booting properly and going into bios.
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At this point I shut down the PC again,unplugged the PSU, did a power release (Clicked the power button a bunch of times), and plugged the rest of the components (Another RAM stick, NVME, HDD, Wireless PCIE card), did all the cable management needed and closed the case.
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Turned on the PC, got into Bios settings, changed some settings, mainly XMP, and booting options, and booted into the USB3 thumbdrive with WIN10 1903 install.
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Finished installing the OS, booting into windows, sudden restart, then again, and again???????
Windows showing error "Windows failed to start"
Trying Safe mode, windows is stable, driver issue.
Reset Bios settings, windows is stable.
Changing settings 1 by 1:
XMP - Stable
Vitrualazation - Stable
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Didn't pusue any more changes than that ATM.
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PC is working fast, no issues so far.
Will update if anything changes.
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TL;DR
My system works, I don't do any overclocking whatsoever, your mileage may vary.
Beautiful tiny PC but here's a very friendly price break down. I'm using new prices here from Amazon except for the fan. This isn't taking into consideration whether the parts are a day or a year old they are officially used and if you go off of even good/average to great /r/hardwareswap deals this would be quite cheaper and it's hard to add a building tax to a community full of builders.
CPU $200 - Ryzen 3600
MOBO $129 - MSI B450i
GPU $320 - RTX 2060
NVME $90 - Samsung 970 Evo
RAM $90 - XPG 3200 MHz 16GB RGB
COOLER $40 - Noctua NH-L9a
FAN $24 - 25mm 4000 RPM Delta Fan
PSU $90 - OP's model is OOS
Custom SFF Cables - $30-50
CASE - GEEEK A30 + Riser Cable + Shipping = $100.67 (for me)
This is $1,113 for everything, basically new.
I don't really think it's a terrible price at all but the nature of this sub seems to be getting great deals so you can pretty much build a PC you would have never had if you just bought everything new on Amazon etc, especially since I believe this sub is full of PC builders. I have seen some absurd deals on this sub reddit that make me want to quit my job so I can just refresh constantly and that's because I've had a full system for awhile. Just a little food for thought for anybody. With some commitment to checking here you can get a great build for way below retail cost of the parts.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Samsung-MZ-V7E500BW-SSD-970-Internal/dp/B07BN4NJ2J/
From the UK, samsung, same price.
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-970-EVO-500GB-MZ-V7E500BW/dp/B07BN4NJ2J?psc=1&amp;SubscriptionId=AKIAJV4KMHBMUG36SMIQ&amp;tag=pcm_rounduptable-20&amp;linkCode=xm2&amp;camp=2025&amp;creative=165953&amp;creativeASIN=B07BN4NJ2J&amp;ascsubtag=4a4edb0b-08c2-4798-9446-ec7d000c4d05
> PCPartPicker says the cooler and case below are not compatible
It fits: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yLegptGG0I8
Recommend Samsung newly released 970evo which is better and cheaper than ur 960evo: https://www.anandtech.com/show/12718/samsung-posts-lowered-msrps-for-970-pro-and-970-evo-ssds and https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-970-EVO-500GB-MZ-V7E500BW/dp/B07BN4NJ2J/
My remarks:
My modifications would result in this:
pc-kombo shared list
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6600 | EUR 214,00 @ Amazon.de
Motherboard | GIGABYTE B150M-DS3H | EUR 75,06 @ Amazon.de
Memory | Crucial CT2K8G4DFD8213 (16 GB) | EUR 57,37 @ Amazon.de
Storage | WD 3TB Blue (3 TB) | EUR 89,90 @ Caseking
SSD | SanDisk Ultra II 960 (1 TB) | EUR 224,90 @ Amazon.de
Video Card | Radeon R9 Fury | EUR 469,00 @ Caseking
Case | Fractal Design R5 | EUR 103,47 @ Amazon.de
Power Supply | Corsair RMx 650 (650 W) | EUR 103,72 @ Amazon.de
| Total | €1341.41
| Generated by pc-kombo 05.05.2016 |
These are my thoughts:
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-2-5-Inch-Height-SDSSDHII-960G-G25/dp/B00M8ABHVQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc
On the screen size, lol that sounds fine with me. Personally, I debated between 15" and 17". I don't really find a "real" difference in portability, I've been using a 17" for several years now. It's mostly just that the 15" looks cooler when I'm using it, the 17" looks a little big to use and carry around. I couldn't convince myself I wouldn't miss the screen size though, and I wanted to be able to use it in as wide a variety of situations as possible, so I went with the 17".
Also went with the 4k display, but I won't argue that one. :D
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-2-5-Inch-Height-SDSSDHII-960G-G25/dp/B00M8ABHVQ
The $170 1 TB SSD was a joke? No, I don't think so -- 960GB SanDisk Ultra II for $164.99.
I'm tempted ... but no, what I've got is fine. For now ...
I've got an SSD as well (specifically this one), but I still get some loading screens up to about 20 seconds, maybe up to 30. I wonder if I have something not setup right.
Currently theres a sandisk ultraII 960 tb ssd for $164 (the same price as a samsung evo 850 500tb)
https://amzn.com/B00M8ABHVQ
upcoming 10am pst
Mechanical Keyboards (Das and Razer BlackWidow)
http://uk.camelcamelcamel.com/SanDisk-Ultra-Sata-inch-Internal/product/B00M8ABHVQ
3 Camels still showing the old price but I believe Amazon are matching the eBuyer misprice this morning.
Looks pretty good. A few things I'd advise
Get the 850 evo not the 840
Looks even cheaper on amazon
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-75E1T0B-AM/dp/B00OBRFFAS
Also if you live near enough microcenter to drive id recommend getting the *CPU and mobo there. It doesn't list it on pc part picker for some reason but it's even cheaper and they have a mobo combo deal
I would strongly advise waiting for a non founders edition gpu. The other ones have better clock speeds for cheaper and better cooling!
Again, your prices seem to be like 5 years old. You can easily find drives from respectable sources that are faaaar cheaper than that, even in large sizes. Like, here's a 500GB SSD that's going for $0.28 per GB. This is literally the first result on Amazon when I check for SSDs, it's not like I'm digging around for great rates or anything, and it's not even a discounted price. SSDs have gotten straight up cheap, the only reason to go mechanical is if you need particularly large sizes, but even 1TB SSDs are pretty damn cheap. Here's one (again, first result on Amazon, and Samsung is probably one of the best brands) that's $0.31 per GB.
If you want a source that they are common, how about this: When I look up all new laptops on Amazon, there are 3,743 available with a SSD, and only 3,426 without. The majority of new laptops have SSDs.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OBRFFAS/ref=twister_B00PRDMHLU?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
1tb samsung 850 evo.
Why are you using two SSDs? A single 1TB Evo is less expensive:
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-75E1T0B-AM/dp/B00OBRFFAS
I'd say just go with a Samsung EVO 850. Anything "better" isn't worth it for this application, anything lesser quality isn't saving enough money to worry about it. Copy the data, encrypt it with BitLocker & a very complex key, and send it on its merry way. (Or vice versa since it's a new drive-- Turn on BL and then copy data)
EDIT: Changed link for our neighbors up north.
Unless you pay an arm and a leg.
Seriously, I paid less for my 970 GTX - when the 900 line was the newest line.
The 850 Evo is MLC and $315 on Amazon. Of course not NVMe, though.
/r/buildapcsales my friend, lots of great deals.
specifically: SSD 1TB $219.99 or Monitor 144Hz 1080p Freesync $169.99
Its $360 on Amazon, Great Device.
I'm not the guy you're responding to, but at $99, here's Amazon's cheapest 3 Tb external:
http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Expansion-Desktop-External-STEB3000100/dp/B00TKFEEJ4/
Although if I were you I'd pony up the extra $18 and go for this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Book-Desktop-External-Drive-WDBFJK0040HBK-NESN/dp/B00E3RH61W/
Not only do I have more confidence in WD over Seagate, you also get an extra 1 Tb for that $18. Then again, if you don't care about brand, you can get 4 Tb for only $10 more:
http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Expansion-Desktop-External-STEB4000100/dp/B00TKFEE8K
Or you could go nuts and get 5 Tb for $129:
http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Expansion-Desktop-External-STEB5000100/dp/B00TKFEEBW/
Amazon currently has the 5tb Seagate Expansion for only a few dollars more. You can always take it out of the enclosure if you don't care about the warranty.
https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Expansion-Desktop-External-STEB5000100/dp/B00TKFEEBW/
Here's a pretty good deal at Amazon, a 5TB external drive for $109:
https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Expansion-Desktop-External-STEB5000100/dp/B00TKFEEBW/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480255142&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=external+hard+drive
I have this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TKFEEBW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Just buy what your space usage needs will be. I bought mind knowing I would never need another one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TKFEEBW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Seagate Expansion 5TB $119.99 and prime shipping
This is what I have. It's on sale, I bought it for $140.
Well there is 4,339 movies that are in 1080p which are the ones I want. On average a movie is about 1.8GB. That totals to about 7.8TB. I have two of these 5TB external hard drives. They're plugged into a computer I use as a Plex server which streams to my Roku.
> First of all there are way better than yify
What groups are better?
I've got the 64 GB version of this Sandisk one. It works well.
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-SDCZ43-128G-GAM46-Newest-Version/dp/B01BGTG2A0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468526549&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=128gb+usb+3.0
Why stop at 64Gb?! I have this one and it works great. Not UK SanDisk Ultra Fit 128GB USB 3.0 Flash Drive (SDCZ43-128G-GAM46) [Newest Version] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BGTG2A0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_Vu2DzqBO8NPWN
https://www.amazon.ca/SanDisk-Ultra-SDCZ43-128G-GAM46-Newest-Version/dp/B01BGTG2A0/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480353732&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=small+usb
exact one you linked except on sale, lol
This: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015Z7XE0A/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_p8iYCbP7N52EY
Plus this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BGTG2A0/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_z8iYCb418WADM
And you're good to go.
Quick demonstration video showing how to enable Dash Cam feature after V9 software update.
128GB USB Drive I used in this video: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BGTG2A0
In order to format it FAT32 on my Windows 10 machine, I used the following software: http://www.ridgecrop.demon.co.uk/index.htm?guiformat.htm
It's almost always worthwhile to build your own system, but if you aren't I would recommend something like this:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883221303R
It's open box but it has a better processor and better graphics card for slightly less than the one you chose. I would also recommend throwing in an SSD as a boot drive. It makes a world of difference.
These Sandisk ones are some of the cheapest and most reliable
Actually scrap that, on German Amazon it's for 127.41 EUR = 112.86 GBP
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B077SF8KMG/
It's a steal for this price
Minis are just a bit slower and louder. In the case of the 1060 zotac mini, not much difference, it's an excellent card - 1060 has a low TDP to begin with.
2) Likely a pcpartpicker error. Pick out a z470 in the $100-140 range.
3) Would add an SSD, even if it's just a small one. Or ditch the HDD and put that money towards an SSD too. Drop the hard drive, and for an extra $70... https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-500GB-NAND-Internal/dp/B0784SLQM6
Been tracking this since it was $135 or so. It dropped to this price this morning.
I think this is a nice blend of price, performance, and storage space.
Also available at this price on Amazon, B&H, Microcenter and a few other retailers.
*Typing on my cell, sorry about any typos or bad formatting
Without ref link
Dude an SSD is easily the biggest upgrade you could do on that rig. A 500gb is cheap af these days and you can use it when you build a new rig, listen to these guys advice it will make a difference.
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-500GB-NAND-Internal/dp/B0784SLQM6/
Sure! This exact one.
https://www.amazon.ca/Crucial-MX500-500GB-NAND-Internal/dp/B0784SLQM6/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=500gb+ssd&amp;qid=1551295357&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-5
I will also note that I followed the guide, took my time, organized the screws I took out and even though my first attempt failed (I must have run the program wrong) and the hdd would not boot AT ALL, attempt 2 was such a success that at 2am after 3 hours of work and nervousness I was cheering.
Its very doable.
2.5” link: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0784SLQM6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8ddNBbQB4Q3BH
Nope, buy now
There you go.
Yes, msg me OP. I would say considering your budget, start with 500gb which should be plenty of space. I would go for either Samsung 850 Evo or the Crucial MX500, which also has amazing reviews. If anyone else wants to chime in, go for it.
Hey - if you're up for saving money and doing a fun project, you could just flip a new SSD into your existing machine. Chances are a 2010 model is still perfectly fine for use for anything except games and scientific computation -- thanks to the laws of physics CPUs stopped evolving about a decade ago, PC industry does not like to advertise this fact!
Newer CPUs are more power efficient, better at computationally intensive stuff (more cores), or add features for more efficient.. again, heavy computation. For almost anything else there is zero point in a new build - Word and Excel do not avail of any of these features. As a developer (and non gamer), I'm on my 5th 2011 era Macbook.
Willing to bet £20 the only thing slow about your computer is the mechanical disk. Here's a Crucial MX500 for £90. Add £15 for a USB caddy to temporarily hold either the old or new drive, and a few hours to understand booting from DVD into a program that can clone the old disk over to the new one, a screwdriver you probably already own, a sense of pride that you just saved yourself a cool £1k, and entire family now thinks you're a computer genius :)
Add £20 for new keyboard+mouse, and £150 for a new screen if you want the thing to look the part
edit: oh, if it's a budget model, might want to look at flipping the RAM too. again, you're looking at around £120 for more than you'll ever need. Budget model might have only shipped with 2 or 4. The only thing more RAM will cause is less IO, but with an SSD IO gets way faster anyway, so you could skip this step, or do it as a separate project.
It's slightly cheaper on amazon.de
Hey, full stack developer using x1 extreme with Linux here. Everything you listed here seems fine other than the ssd you want to make sure you get nvme as opposed to normal sata 3 one to make sure you get the most out of it. This is the lowest one I'd put on a workstation
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-970-EVO-1TB-MZ-V7E1T0BW/dp/B07BN217QG
That's the normal 970 evo, the 970 evo plus is a bit better though. 970 pro isn't worth it to me from a price point perspective the 970 plus is my go-toand is what I have installed on my X1E. 3500mb/s read and about 3200-3300 mb/s write, the one you listed hovers around 500mb/s read and a bit less write than that.
Everything you listed as a requirement can be done on all Linux distros, what you have to determine is how you'd like to manage them. If you're a first time user I'd recommend pop os and manjaro, they're sure to have all the stuff you need and work pretty good out of the box. I personally use manjaro because it's a rolling release so I install once and just go upgrading stuff as it comes out, no need to install a new one over what I have once the new release is out like other distros. Just remember that with Linux you'll have to do some digging around and getting your hands dirty with stuff sometimes for things to work properly but once you get used to it you'll see it's a small price to pay for all the flexibility you get. The ones I listed are just some personal favourites, you really can't go wrong with any other to be honest just experiment with a few until you find the right fit for you, try them on some virtual machines if you want to make your testing a bit faster.
Cheers
Looks pretty good to me but I think a few small changes could get a little better value.
I'd suggest getting the 3000 or 3200MHz versions of your RAM instead of 2666. It's literally two dollars more on Amazon. for 3000.
You could possibly save a bit of money with a different motherboard, but if you like that particular one it should work great. I don't have any specific recommendations because I don't know if there's anything specific you needed that that board has.
Personally I don't like having have two different drives for OS and any programs, so I'd just go with a single 1TB 970 Evo for $228 and a HDD with no 2.5" SSD. Or to save a bit go with a HP EX920 for 38 bucks less. With either choice, enough super fast NVMe storage to fit the OS and every single program you'd realistically ever install is worth the loss of 250GB space total when you are also getting a massive storage HDD with several TB.
You could definitely save on the PSU unless you plan on getting a second 1080ti in SLI. A high end 8700k/single 1080ti system running CPU, GPU, and storage stress tests simultaneously would still be unlikely to ever hit 500W, and in real world usage would rarely pull over 400W. You could definitely save on the PSU while still having plenty of headroom. I definitely wouldn't go lower than 500 or 550, but there are plenty of top-tier brands of 650 and 750W Gold or Plat rated PSUs for much less than $140. EVGA's Supernova G2 and G3 are around 90 bucks for top quality with a 10-year warranty and gold efficiency.
Even the normal black colored 850W Corsair RMx is thirty bucks cheaper thatn the $140 white one you picked, which would pay for the other upgrades, and you usually don't even see the PSU or its wiring any more as most cases have a PSU shroud including the SPEC-OMEGA RGB you chose.
I'm not a fan of that case's plastic Transformers look, but if you like it, other than aesthetics it seems like it has every feature you'd want in a case. IMO NZXT's H500i looks a lot cleaner while still having built in controllable RGB and a glass side panel and is also 20 bucks cheaper without having to fill out a rebate form. If you do that though, I'd suggest getting one of NZXT's AIO CPU coolers instead of Corsair's to work with their LED sync software. Usually makes sense to try and keep sync-able RGB stuff the same brand for compatibility.
Everything you already have selected should work great together but some tweaks would get you a better deal for what you're paying.
This ain't it boys, 25$ cheaper on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BN217QG/ref=twister_B07CY2RR4Z?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I just ordered one too, and I've got the same questions as you (minus the warranty)! Though, I am looking at the Samsung Evo 1TB SSD: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BN217QG/ It's the best for the money from the research I've done, and it's at the lowest price it's ever been. I just want to make sure I won't need an adapter or anything for it.
So from the product manual, that i'm seeing here,
FOR SSD:
your laptop have 1x M.2 PCIe/SATA Combo slot and 1x M.2 PCIe slot. and the ssd that you mentioned in specs is nvme/pcie ssd. Therefore i can assume that you can buy either m.2 sata or m.2 pcie/nvme drive. both will work. but i would recommend buying m.2 ssd for mass storage if you are not doing any kind of video editing. you can buy e.g. crucial mx500 1tb. Or if you are doing video editing or really hard core work that require insane amount of read write ssd speeds then buy samsung 970 evo.
How to configure in laptop:
- if u buy sata ssd: remove the alrdy installed ssd and put it in pcie only slot. put new sata ssd in combo slot.
- if u buy pcie/nvme ssd: install it in the second empty slot. dont touch alrdy installed ssd.
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FOR RAM:
since you want 32 gb, you would need to replace both ram sticks. Also since laptop has intel cpu, ram of speeds 2667 are enough. buy a kit of 2x16gb 2667mhz and just replace the old rams. you can buy this and use it. i have recently installed 8gb ballistix stick in my laptop to make it 2x 8gb. works great.
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Several videos are online to open up ur laptop. e.g. this one. just follow.
Specs for those who don't read imgur descriptions..
17gb currently costs less than $1. 30gb currently costs $1. The economies of disk storage is fine in the present. I don't see the cost of storing the blockchain on a standard hdd getting out of control even if the blockchain increases liberally.
source
Looks like Amazon has the same deal going on for this drive (only lasts until June 20th, though).
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T3GRLY
Wow, an even better deal! Found the link.
Looks like amazon is matching $99 now.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005T3GRLY
edit: back up to 107 today
Yes, there are easy ways to transfer Windows. Well, easier than re-installing and starting from scratch.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E3W15P0/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I've used this in the past, which comes with a utility to clone your hard drive to your new SSD. I believe the tool requires something like this to move the data. It wasn't listed as required when I purchased this SSD, but luckily I had one lying around.
Full disclosure, I did this from one SSD to another, but you should be able to use it from an HDD to an SSD. You'll need to trim down the data on your HDD until it's roughly 75% of the capacity of the new SSD before cloning it over.
Obviously keep your old HDD for a while after you've started running of your new SSD just in case you run into any problems.
Edit-- Just realized that it's your secondary drive that's failing, meaning you may not have a holding space for the data on your primary drive when you trim it down. If you're going to use it as a secondary drive later, I'm assuming it's a larger drive--not sure how full it is. You may need an external drive to temporarily hold the stuff from your primary drive if you don't feel like trusting that data, even temporarily, to the failing secondary drive. The tool I suggested does not, as far as I'm aware, allow you to copy over JUST your OS files and leave your other files in place. You wouldn't be able to hook up your new drive, boot into the old drive, and copy the Windows files over because most would be in use by your current drive. I'm guessing you could use a Linux ISO on a USB stick to boot into Linux and use their file tools to copy over all of the Windows files from the old drive to the new one, but I have suspicions as to how well that would work. My suspicions could be unfounded.
I just built my PC and I've found the most important components are:
Why isn't he recommending the Samsung 840 EVO - it's cheaper than the SanDisk SSDs? Is it not suitable for hackintosh's?
120GB ($99.99): http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E3W15P0
250GB ($176.99): http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E3W1726
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E3W15P0/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1398860361&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=SX200_QL40
I am going to add an SSD when I change my computer into a new Fractal R4. Here's the post I made about that: http://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/29jmtn/build_help_adding_an_ssd/
I plan to use this SSD: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KFAGCWK/?tag=pcpapi-20
Is there anything else I should worry about when switching cases? My current case is a mid tower as well. I've been a little worried about my computer running hot, so I am trying out a new case. Should I go ahead and upgrade the CPU cooler as well? Or is that Zalman CPU cooler sufficient?
Thanks for the help.
Spend money on the GPU rather than CPU. The CPU is totally fine for gaming.
Ssd would be good, but i'd say go with the gpu, you can ALWAYS add the ssd later.
also tbh, you could save money on hardisk. You could nearly get this ssd: http://www.amazon.es/Crucial-MX100-256-GB-interno/dp/B00KFAGCWK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1404516915&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=crucial+mx100 and get and this hardisk for the price 20-30+ Euro. And that's a 256gb ssd and 1tb hardisk.
you want this one.
http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX100-adapter-Internal-CT256MX100SSD1/dp/B00KFAGCWK
You can get a pretty nice SSD for a damn good price. I threw one of these in my old ThinkPad and now that thing flies! It's definitely worth the $110.
Once you go SSD it's hard to go back.
personnaly I would go for a 256 Gb version, as I feel like my own 120 GB is too small already.
The 256 GB runs around 70-80 GBP, while 128 GB run about 50-58 GBP.
Samsung EVO 850, and the crucial MX 100 seem to be the best ones around that price point at the moment.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Crucial-CT256MX100SSD1-256GB-Includes-Spacer/dp/B00KFAGCWK/ref=sr_1_3/278-0229522-2871676?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1415455038&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=ssd
Get a Crucial MX100. I bought it a couple months ago. It's awesome. My PC boots up in about 5 seconds with Win8.
Crucial MX100 256GB
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00KFAGCWK/?tag=pcp0f-21
It's slightly above £70 but if you go below that you're looking at 120GB SSDs at around £50 and that is far too small.
SSDs will provide little to no performance difference in games aside from faster loading times. Of course this depends the game, some could benefit from an SSD but most will not. The SSD would make general performance of the operating system and applications far more responsive.
Your Mac Pro doesn't have USB 3.0, so unless you have an internal PCIe USB 3.0 card you wouldn't be able to use a USB 3.0 SSD. And that's assuming that you are really talking about a Mac Pro... you don't have a Macbook Pro, do you? As that can't use USB 3.0 at all. But either way I wouldn't recommend the one you found as it's not a very fast SSD. Good internal SSDs are not any more expensive than an external one, in fact external (of the same performance) is probably going to be more expensive.
I would suggest either this 128GB for $62 or this 256GB for $104. These are some of the best value SSDs you can get. Very fast, very reliable.
There isn't really a performance difference between an SSD on SATA III 6Gbps and USB 3.0. Even some of the fastest SSD won't saturate the bandwidth available on either. However for simplicity sake, it's a lot better to just boot off the SSD internally. You don't want to have to boot to USB 3.0 all the time.
I can mainly speak to Thinkpads. You can easily substitute your own drive without voiding the warranty. I think it would be advisable to hold onto the original hd in case of warranty work.
A 256GB is cheap these days, like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX100-2-5-Inch-Internal-CT256MX100SSD1/dp/B00KFAGCWK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1426367726&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ssd+crucial
Take a look at the Thinkpad line, from best to least good: T, L, E.
This one, 256 GB.
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-2-5-Inch-Height-SDSSDHII-960G-G25/dp/B00M8ABHVQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468340769&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=1tb+ssd
You can get one brand new for this price:
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Passport-Portable-External-Drive/dp/B01LQQH86A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1536087972&sr=8-3&keywords=4tb+hard+drive+external
I'm using [this] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LQQH86A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_w4ofzbTJ1T7RX4) 4TB one and I haven't noticed any lag, works extremely well for me. Definitely recommend.
4TB SSD is quite expensive, but might be worth it. They are probably less than half the weight. Big spinning disk drive has got a lot of metal in it. big added bonus for SSD is that they are pretty rugged out of the gate - you don't have to worry about shocks nearly as much and can have a lighter case for it.
Not sure you can live with multiple disks, but 4x 1TB might be worth it as well.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LQQH86A/ref=psdc_595048_t3_B01HOV57QE claims to be less than half a pound vs the 4.3 yours claims to be. I doubt the passport is quite as fast, but probably fast enough.
If you feel comfortable doing computer surgery, you could replace the 1TB in your laptop (https://www.laptopmag.com/reviews/laptops/powerspec-1710 right?) with an SSD. Probably save yourself quite a bit of weight there too.
otherwise any 4tb external hdd will do the job
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_4_6?url=search-alias%3Daps&amp;field-keywords=4tb+external+hard+drive+usb+3.0&amp;sprefix=4tb+ex%2Caps%2C345&amp;crid=138R5QPQMJ7LB
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Passport-Portable-External-Drive/dp/B01LQQH86A/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526414015&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=4tb+external+hard+drive+usb+3.0
pro: plug and play, no external power needed, cheaper, handy
I just had mine delivered with the free prime shipping!
Delivered today
Western Digital 4TB Black My Passport Portable External Hard Drive - USB 3.0 - WDBYFT0040BBK-WESN
Sold by: Amazon.com Services, Inc
Return eligible through Jun 19, 2019
$54.99
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Now, patiently hoping that these 2 orders get delivered :-)
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2 of WD 10TB My Book Desktop External Hard Drive, USB 3.0 - WDBBGB0100HBK-NESN
Sold by: Amazon.com Services, Inc
$79.99
WD 8TB My Cloud EX2 Ultra Network Attached Storage - NAS - WDBVBZ0080JCH-NESN
Sold by: Amazon.com Services, Inc
$179.99
Also a 4tb MyPassport for $ 50ish + duties https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LQQH86A/ref=psdcmw_595048_t3_B07CMH78R5
I have one of these for my XBone and my PS4. They work great, don't take up a ton of space, and don't need an additional power supply. Amazon Link I Hope That's Okay
EDIT: My version of your build, much smaller with more storage, I just threw in a cheaper keyboard but whatever.
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/H2CgJ8
I see you're going all out here.
I'm ignoring peripherals, because that's preference.
128GB NVME SSD: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-960-EVO-Internal-MZ-V6E250BW/dp/B01LYFKX41
1TB 2.5in SSD: https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-240GB-Solid-State-SDSSDA-240G-G26/dp/B01LY5ZZ4P /ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=3GK2PGXJS2QFXET07H84&th=1
1 or 2TB HDD: Lots of options, probably best are going to be Seagate (Barracuda or Firecuda drives), Western Digital (Blues or Blacks for better performance), or something like HGST.
Just giving you a heads up that you probably won't sell that NVMe here for that price. That's what they retail for now on Amazon, and eBay has them about $78 brand new. Sadly, and thankfully, all SSD prices have dropped significantly. I actually just picked up a 1TB NVMe for $179.
EDIT: I admit I did forget the links. That's my own fault.
Recent sale for used drive, another one, and one more
Price policing only applies if you don't provide links, which I admit I did forget at first. Updated now to follow the rules.
Where are you getting $4000? These drives cost 1/4 that. Plus you don't need 1TB versions, or the PRO versions, nor do you need two for Raid 0. This setup is obviously built with more than Factorio in mind.
1.9GB/s writes for $117: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-960-EVO-Internal-MZ-V6E500BW/dp/B01LYFKX41?th=1
That will easily be fast enough to move the bottleneck to your CPU. If you don't have a M2 slot, you'd have to buy a PCI-E card.
This one seems to be only $17 more but have much quicker write speeds. I don't know too much about SSD's but can someone tell me which is better of the two?
Picked up a Samsung Evo 960 M.2 250GB for ~$87 before tax
$138 for a sata 1tb
https://www.amazon.com/ADATA-Ultimate-Su800-Internal-ASU800SS-1TT-C/dp/B01K8A29E6
Edit here's an m2 for $140 if you're willing to wait 2 weeks
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0B/dp/B073SB2MXT
Link to m.2 SSD.
Both are priced at $134.99 and are eligible for prime shipping.
the WD Blue is $99
is the WD Blue worth the extra $20 ?
https://smile.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-500GB-SSD-WDS500G2B0B/dp/B073SB2MXT/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=ssd&amp;psr=EY17&amp;qid=1575131190&amp;s=cyber-monday&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;sr=1-10&amp;th=1
Then HDD is your bottleneck in your rig.
If you are on a budged (and have board with M2, which is implied by k processor), WD blue has best bang for buck value. You won't notice any difference IRL usage if you go for SATA variant, but prices are kind of on par.
SSDs are mainstream in midrange gaming rigs for at least 5 years and whoever build your rig deserves kick in the balls.
Black friday sales are around the corner or you can wish for nice christmas present.
Last recomendation: Don't go for anything below 1TB, most of new AAA games are over 100GB install so lower capacities are not worth the vicious hustle unless you have at least 1Gb fiber internet.
Looks fine, the one thing you might look into is a 1 tb m.2 drive, as they're getting pretty cheap on amazon and would offer some space savings and potentially better system speeds.
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073SB2MXT/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
Depending on your budget, I would recommend to max it out and basically turn it into the server version. Replace the HD with a SSD, and max out the RAM at 16 GB:
120 GB SSD
16 GB RAM
If the RAM is too much money, you can honestly do just fine with 8 GB RAM for half the cost.
The RAM is the easiest to replace, the drive takes a little more time but their are tons of videos and resources on ifixit.com and OWC.
If you want to take it a step further, you can buy the [DIY Dual Drive Kit] (https://eshop.macsales.com/item/OWC/DIYIMM11D2/) and use the SSD as your boot drive, while still being able to use the 1TB for storage.
I've done all this myself and use my mini as a server that is on 24/7.
Most of the times I find small computer parts cheaper in Al Ain Center than US, just last month I got this SSD for 310 AED.
Looks like a really good build. I will put part links in the end of the post. Here's some tips to save a bit of money if you're open to it:
TL;DR: cut back on PSU efficiency ratings, look for different 16GB or even 8GB RAM kits, ditch CPU cooler (or keep if you want), get an RX 480 for saving money on future monitors, you can also put another RX 480 in your build in the future with a different motherboard; an ATX motherboard would fill your case and add capability for a second RX 480, a non-Samsung SSD could save you some money, while for $100, you can get an SSD and a 1TB hard drive.
Links:
“Basic” EVGA 550W
Rosewill Hive-550
EVGA 600B
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO LED
RX 480 -choose which one you like
Asus B150-PLUS
Crucial MX 300 275GB
SanDisk Z400S 256GB
WD Blue 1TB
I hope my advice helped you and that this didn't overwhelm you. If you save enough money, you could throw in a red LED PWM fan, which adjusts its speed based on your computer's needs. You could maybe even throw in an LED strip or two. I had a lot of fun making this, thanks for posting :D
Memory is crazy cheap these days. You can get your hands on a 2 TB HD for around 70-90 bucks, so save up some cash and watch out for sales! Or just delete the stuff you're not actively playing, and reinstall it when needed.
Just built a computer for somebody with a 2TB HDD that cost 60 dollars.
https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-BarraCuda-Internal-3-5-Inch-ST2000DM006/dp/B01IEKG402/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542343991&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=2tb+hdd
I will never understand how people complain about games taking a lot of space, only thing to complain about is if you cant get fast internet cheap.
It's going to be hard but the safest way is finding a independent IT company that would do it at a per hour rate. Try googling "city name" pc repair (best bet), or "city name" MSP (long shot).
If you can't find that you could try craigslist in your city, I also think Amazon offers installs when you buy from them on some items.
For example this hard drive: https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-BarraCuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST2000DM006/dp/B01IEKG402/ref=lp_193870011_1_19?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1541910505&amp;sr=1-19
for $104 I can order installation.
Edit: A quick google search found these guys: http://www.mailyourpc.com/ they probably would do it if you wanted to mail it in.
Get a B250 mobo and Pentium G4560. With the money you save, you can get a cheap SSD. Sandisk makes a 120gb one for about $60. Get a better hard drive. For $60, you can get a Seagate 2TB drive.
An external seagate drive is always a safe bet. Seagate makes internal HDDs as well if you are willing to put a little more work into replacing the drive completely. It would save you a USB port, though. The internal and external ones are very similar in price, so it comes down to preference.
Amazon has them for slightly less than that with Prime shipping. https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-BarraCuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST2000DM006/dp/B01IEKG402/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485993623&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=seagate+barracuda
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01IEKG402/?tag=pcp0f-20
Also available on amazon for same price. An option for those that don't get free shipping through Newegg.
For those that are curious:
What am I using them for?
Only $4.89 cheaper than Amazon's price https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-BarraCuda-Cache-Desktop-ST2000DM006/dp/B01IEKG402/
Here's what I bought through Amazon (prices seem to have gone up by a few dollars).
IDE/SATA adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008X8NK0I/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Seagate HDD 2Tb:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IEKG402/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
80 wire IDE ribbon cable:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000067SNX/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I actually use Cxboxtool(iirc that's the name) which extracts ISOs and builds a folder for each ISO, then I FTP them to my Xbox using the same program. You can also use an app in a softmodded/TSOPd Xbox to rip your own ISOs.
Super helpful info! Does that mean that I can just use an old laptop if I'm not looking to invest in numerous hard disks? How many TB are minimum to make this worth setting up? I could pick up something like this... https://www.amazon.com/Black-Passport-Portable-External-Drive/dp/B01LQQH86A/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511812971&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=hard+drive ?
For the most part, any external hard drive will work the same regardless of if it's licensed.
Depending on the drive/manufacturer it may be faster or more reliable. Seagate drives tend to fail more than Western Digital. You can get the same speed out of both depending on which model you buy.
I use this WD drive: https://www.amazon.com/Black-Passport-Portable-External-Drive/dp/B01LQQH86A/ref=sr_1_4
Since your question is already answered...heres a tip since your already almost max on storage. Get a external hdd. You can get a WD 4tb hdd for $98 USD. It will literally last for years. Plus if your friends come over (and buy games you own & have downloaded) you can plug it into their xbox and copy the game to theirs a fuck ton faster. (it took 20min to transfer all of black ops 4 from my buddies to mine)
Definitely add an external HDD. I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/Black-Passport-Portable-External-Drive/dp/B01LQQH86A/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1WDQX79JPNSBA&keywords=4tb+usb+3.0+external+hard+drive&qid=1557950279&s=electronics&sprefix=4tb+usb%2Celectronics%2C175&sr=1-5
Highly recommended as the internal Xbox drive will fill up quickly.
Amazon doesn't have a lot of options, and tbh they're kind of overpriced. But the CS1311 and SSD Plus aren't bad, only about $5 over their usual prices.
On Win 7, I would try to get at least 4 gigs of ram if possible, but it ultimately depends on what you're doing with it. Use Crucial's system scanner tool to see exactly how much it can handle and what type of ram it takes. It could be dirt cheap to upgrade it, it could be expensive.
I know you just replaced that hdd, but I would have recommended looking at doing an ssd instead. If its still an option, doing something like this can make a world of difference in older machines. Anything that involves the hard drive is significantly faster. So faster boot times, snappier system performance, and it's all around just better.
If you get 4 gigs of ram loaded into it, you can also use your win 7 product key to activate 10 on a clean installation and breathe some new life into it. I wouldn't recommend 10 on 2 gigs of ram though.
Also, since you used acer recovery discs, did you end up with a clean installation? Or did it reinstall factory bloat? That can make a big difference.
I have a similar build from 2011 http://i.imgur.com/6Gvw7A2.jpg. https://i.imgur.com/MiHTnA7.jpg It's OC to 3.8 and is air cooled. This SanDisk SSD PLUS 120GB Solid State Drive (SDSSDA-120G-G26) [Newest Version] is 49.99 at https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F9G414U/ref=twister_B01FVDTA0G?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1.
No enclosure, but would give you significantly faster speeds for close to the same price. Also it's easier to move (no need for external power.)
Idea for a combo:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486254856&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=sata+usb3
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-120GB-SDSSDA-120G-G26-Newest-Version/dp/B01F9G414U/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486254905&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=128gb+ssd
I can sell you my old one for $40 if you're in the atlanta area :D
otherwise, this one looks good: https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-120GB-SDSSDA-120G-G26-Newest-Version/dp/B01F9G414U/
If you can swing for it, or wait and save a bit more I would really recommend getting an SSD. It really is night and day performance for booting Windows, launching applications, and loading games.
Personally I refuse to ever buy another computer that doesn't have the OS on an SSD. Even if you only get 120 GB or so it would be worth it.
This isn't too bad for the price:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/SanDisk-PLUS-Sata-inch-Internal/dp/B01F9G414U/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499388921&amp;sr=1-1
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor | $109.67 @ Amazon
Motherboard | ASRock H110M-DVS/D3 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $54.00 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | Corsair Vengeance Pro 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $44.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | MSI GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Video Card | $142.99 @ Amazon
Case | Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mini Tower Case | $49.00 @ Amazon
Power Supply | Corsair CXM 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $53.99 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $92.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $597.62
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-04-02 06:55 EDT-0400 |
I own an i3 6100, and the hyper threading makes such a difference.The Nvidia 1050ti is a fairly new card meaning that it won't go out of fashion in a hurry, but I have heard good things about the AMD rx 470. I don't really know much about AMD, but a 1050ti suits me just fine. The case is nice and small, and I think the only reason that the OS is so expensive, is because it's from an online shop. You can probably find a better deal in store perhaps, I'm not sure. An SSD would be impossible with the current budget, but if you're really desperate, you could swap the hard drive for one, and then get a large hard drive at a later date to store everything on, if you feel that you can survive with less space for a while. In that case, may I recommend this.
The price is the same, but it's only 120gb. So maybe a couple of games installed at a time, until you get the biggie. I've got a pretty similar build, and it can run most things. Good luck!
EDIT However, after a little bit more research, I've seen people go nuts over this thing:. It's a little slower than an i3 6100, but much cheaper. It does have hyper-threading. BUT you may need to reconsider the motherboard, as PC Part picker says you need to mess with bios updates ect ect...
Here is a decent one. There are better out there, but prices vary. I spent a little time to source and this is the best I found as of today.
HDD is better "dollar value," SSD is dramatically better performance for load times, general feel, etc. But if value is most important, you can get 3TBs for < $100, easily.
If you don't need space, this is the best 250 GB SDD for < $100.
Or both: SanDisk SSD PLUS 120GB + Seagate 1TB BarraCuda for roughly $98.
Did you even search?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/SanDisk-PLUS-Sata-inch-Internal/dp/B01F9G414U/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503926865&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=ssd
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F9G414U/?tag=pcpapi-20
SanDisk SSD PLUS 120GB Solid State Drive is the more popular choice for that size. Anything by samsung is good too.
Build looks good. well thought out.
Nope not really, I'd add an ssd if you can afford it,
$50 will get you this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01F9G414U/ref=psdcmw_1292116011_t1_B00A1ZTZOG
You can stick your main games and os on there for much better boot times and loading screens
Current shopping cart:
Graphics - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IPVSLTC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A1D9VA4FDB43MN&amp;psc=1
Motherboard - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0131GA4WI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&amp;psc=1
Processro - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MRRPPQS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_9?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
SSSD - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F9G414U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
RAM - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DPSQPF2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
Case - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DPSQPF2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
Power - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017HA3SQ8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?smid=A2I4D0WO1JEMBA&amp;psc=1
Harddrive - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013QFRS2S/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F9G414U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
that is what i bought, do i need another type?
There are many SSDs though. Since you mentioned that you bought your laptop in 2010 you should be looking at 3.5 Inch SSD drives.
https://www.amazon.in/gp/aw/d/B01F9G414U/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526410349&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX118_SY170_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=ssd+sandisk&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41W7w9dfhAL&amp;ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX300-275GB-Internal-Solid/dp/B01IAGSD5O
this is what I put in mine, but if you're nearing your budget cap this might not be the best option.
Sure. Crucial MX300
$275 GB SSD for less than $100
https://www.amazon.it/Crucial-MX300-Interno-275GB-CT275MX300SSD1/dp/B01IAGSD5O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511009107&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=crucial This?
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 3 1200 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor | €104.64
Motherboard | MSI - B350M GAMING PRO Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | €84.00
Storage | Crucial - MX300 275GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | €90.00
Storage | Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | €45.00
Video Card | MSI - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB GAMING X Video Card | €271.00
Case | Corsair - 100R ATX Mid Tower Case | €54.00
Other | Corsair CP-9020097-UK VS550 ATX/EPS Vs Series 80 Plus Power Supply Unit | €46.00
Other | Crucial 8GB Single DDR4 2400 MT/s (PC4-192000) DIMM 288-Pin Memory - CT8G4DFD824A | €85.63
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | €780.27
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-11-12 13:00 GMT+0000 |
ALL of these are from Amazon UK, i just simply converted all prices from Pound to Euro. Build was £690 or 780 Euros Total.
RYZEN 1200 - https://www.amazon.co.uk/AMD-YD1200BBAEBOX-Wraith-Stealth-Cooler/dp/B0741DN383/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510491545&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ryzen+1200
MOBO - https://www.amazon.co.uk/MSI-B350M-GAMING-PRO-Motherboard/dp/B06WXX7FR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510490987&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=MSI+-+B350M+GAMING+PRO
1TB HDD - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Blue-Desktop-Hard-Disk-Drive/dp/B0088PUEPK/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510491127&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=1tb+hdd&amp;dpID=51DmuZNyIGL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
275GB SSD-
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01IAGSD5O/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1
GTX 1060 6GB - https://www.amazon.co.uk/MSI-GTX-1060-GAMING-DisplayPort/dp/B01IEKYD5U/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510491432&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=gtx+1060+6gb
CASE - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CC-9011075-WW-Windowed-Mid-Tower-Computer/dp/B00RORBQNW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510491311&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=corsair+100r
PSU - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CP-9020097-UK-PLUS-Power-Supply/dp/B00TE4XSMA/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510491365&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=500w+psu
RAM - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Crucial-DDR4-2400-PC4-19200-288-Pin/dp/B019FRED60/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510491809&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=8gb+ddr4&amp;dpID=41TDZYwtkwL&amp;preST=_SX300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
Looking for a SSD on BF!
I checked the best buy flyer plus another offer that was posted on this subreddit earlier, which one do you think is better?
Samsung Evo 850 EVO vs. Crucial MX300
The samsung is more expensive and has slightly less storage so im kind of confused because that was my original option, do you think I should buy the crucial one instead then?
http://flyer.bestbuy.ca/flyers/bestbuy-weekly?flyer_run_id=276105&amp;type=1&amp;locale=EN&amp;postal_code=N1R1H3&amp;store_code=995&amp;is_store_selection=true&amp;auto_flyer=&amp;sort_by=#!/flyers/bestbuy-weekly?flyer_run_id=276105
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01IAGSD5O/?tag=pcp0f-20&amp;th=1
Do yourself a favor and get at least a 250GB SSD. 120GB is going to fill up real quick. Check out this one instead.
Also, the Z-series motherboard is overkill unless you plan to overclock (which the i5-7500 can't do). I know you said you plan to eventually upgrade to an i7-7700k, in which case the motherboard you chose is fine. Just something to keep in mind.
[This is the one] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IAGSD5O/ref=twister_B01IB47HBG?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1) I got, Amazon had it on sale for 84.99 the other day.
I don't know which pc case you have. It may have SSD mounting bracket built-in. SSD is always better than HDD if you want higher speeds but lower space. I don't use amazon at all but for around 80-100$ I'd recommend those:
1 - (30% off)
... 2
... 3
I would also probably consider adding an SSD, due to increase in speed. You could put your OS, games, and other software on the SSD and then your files on your hard drive. This is a good SSD drive option. I have the 1TB model, with a 2TB HDD, but 256GB is most likely plenty, since you're leaning towards lower price. This is NOT a requirement, though, so don't freak out about the price. https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX300-275GB-Internal-Solid/dp/B01IAGSD5O/
I think you should go for an RX 470 and an MX300. What are your thoughts on these?
okay. In safe mode with networking, can you open chrome and everything fine?
Your hard drive is what all your info is stored on. Typically they use 5400 RPM drives that are SLOW and really make the pc work much worse than it can. I highly suggest buying a Solid State Drive such as this for your laptop and installing a clean version of windows on it. I did it to my y50 and it is a whole new machine. Boots to desktop from being off in 10 seconds.
Heres what I mean with the USB
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mOUjiIsC5T4
And for the SSD
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oq7JFCarxzI
I would suggest getting a 1 TB HDD like this to put your games and other large files on.
Then get this for your operating system and a few choice programs.
For memory, I would get at least 8 GB with a max of 32 GB. There is no reason to go overboard on the memory, since it sounds like you just want to game.
Yup, that one will do fine. They are all the same card with different coolers as long as it says GTX 1050ti (or in this case, GTX 1050 without the 'Ti' suffix. Ti is faster, but costs more of course). I have that model in my sisters computer as well and she is doing just fine with it.
Other than that, there isnt much that would give a huge increase in performance. With the exception of a SSD.
SSD's really bring any machine to life again. Everything loads so much faster. It will not increase gaming performance (framerate) but it will drastically reduce load times. Most games will load in a few seconds or less. Skyrim on my machine loads so fast, i can't even read the first word in their load screens that normally talk about things in the game.
The downside is, they are expensive for their size. Normally one puts windows on it, and perhaps your favorite game (or software if you use anything specific).
Something like a https://www.amazon.co.uk/Crucial-MX300-275GB-Internal-Solid/dp/B01IAGSD5O/ref=sr_1_3?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520087828&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=mx300 would work quite well, or the cheaper 120-150GB versions as well.
Depends a bit on how much money you have to spend.
After that, you need a new processor. Sadly, there isn't much you can do with your current hardware in that area. That would mean new motherboard, new RAM and new processor. Which is quite expensive. Pretty much half of a new computer.
Please get an SSD, it's so worth it. 275GB's are ~$80 now
Your build looks good. For a white case check out the NZXT S340 White. As for the SSD, I personally would get at least a 250gb so you can put some games on it as well. For reference, BF3 on my SSD loads in 20 seconds and BF4 on my HDD takes around 60-90 seconds to load. There's nothing wrong with waiting but after you've experienced the speed of an SSD everything on a HDD just feels sooo slow. For the same price of the 120gb m.2 you can get a Crucial MX300 525GB SSD. Thats like 4x the storage for the same price granted the MX300 SATA read /write speeds is less than the 850 Evo M.2. The MX300 is still faster than a HDD though so IMO its definitely worth it.
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX300-275GB-Internal-Solid/dp/B01IAGSD5O SSD's are considerably faster in the read/write department when compared to a traditional disk drive. It allows your PC to boot much faster and any games you place on the SSD will load much faster. They are a delight.
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX300-275GB-Internal-Solid/dp/B01IAGSD5O/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482990894&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=crucial+ssd
If you're buying one, you can get a 1TB SSD for around $300, so that is pricey and I'm not sure who would spend that much money just for that. If the difference is enough then I may, but might opt for a 512GB for around $130.
But when you think of the people who may have older 256GB or 512GB that they've upgraded from that they could throw in the PS4 Pro or just purchase one for $70, it may make sense depending on how much of a boost you get, hence why I plan on doing some testing. Right now it's varying by a huge degree from what I've seen and some people are getting 20-50% faster load times on other games.
And while yes I would agree that 256GB is rather small, it's still enough to fit 5-10 games as long as people are willing to delete and re-download games they don't play as often.
You don't need to do this though, it will perform better but it's not needed unless your hard drive is failing. Just do a fresh restore.
You could just do it your self,, I've replaced my SSD for my MacBook Pro, was super easy. I fix it has very in depth steps. Use disk utility to format new SSD and install new software.
SSD: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B01IAGSD5O/ref=mh_s9_acsd_top_bT8M1X_c_x_2_w?pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&amp;pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-4&amp;pf_rd_r=G5SQGWG552F41QE9CA24&amp;pf_rd_t=30901&amp;pf_rd_p=af5ef1b0-5f9e-5a36-a018-08e600020206&amp;pf_rd_i=430505031&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Mac+Mini+Late+2012+Hard+Drive+Replacement/11716
Recently, the SDD that I store windows and a majority of my data on, this one, with virtually no warning was no longer showing up in the BIOS, leaving my PC in the state as if it was before I had installed windows. After checking, all of the cables were properly connected. I had switched out the Sata Data cable with another cable from another drive that was functioning, into a different Sata port on the mother board, and it is still not recognized. Is this potentially a result of the drive failing, and if so, what is the best way for me to test for that and potentially recover my data?
Better build quality PSU
http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/9q4NnQ/evga-power-supply-220g20650y1
Cheaper 275GB SSD (on sale)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IAGSD5O/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;th=1
yep 2TB $70USD, 4TB $120USD .
I just looked on that link and read the reviews and questions from that page and someone answered yes it will work for the PS4, hope that helps
my bad, forgot to list that. It's https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-BarraCuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST2000DM006/dp/B01IEKG402/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497892449&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=2tb+hard+drive&amp;linkCode=sl1&amp;tag=thtebusgu-20&amp;linkId=f2fac6479efe3c8cf76523e331d13cfc
Concur. Also, the cost of HDD's are so low now they're almost disposable. You can get a 2TB Seagate Barracuda HDD for $77 on Amazon. That's about the cost of a nice dinner and drinks with your SO. Just replace it (the HDD, not the SO!)
Depends on your financial situation, but being that you're asking in the first place, I'll say that a 1TB SSD is probably not necessary. You should have a 1TB or 2TB (or larger) secondary drive for storing files that don't need fast access, like videos, music, pictures, etc.
A 2TB drive is only ~$75, so I probably wouldn't recommend buying used. I definitely wouldn't install a used drive without sanitizing it on a safe system first. You never know what malware people have sitting on them.
It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users.
I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!
Here is link number 1 - Previous text "$60"
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^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete
Storage is a concern. 1TB of storage is a joke. Please get the fuck out of here with your FUD. You either don't work in IT or are a complete fucking retard if you think 1TB of space is hard to come by.
https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-BarraCuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST2000DM006/dp/B01IEKG402/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499367353&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=2+TB+HDD
65 bucks for a 2 TB HDD, maybe you don't know what the fuck you're talking about.
Source: I store your healthcare data and there is a lot more of that being created and stored daily than fucking blockchain transactions. I get paid deep 6 figures for this work.
i would use this hdd: https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-BarraCuda-Internal-3-5-Inch-ST2000DM006/dp/B01IEKG402
and this case: https://www.amazon.com/NZXT-H500-Computer-CA-H500B-B1-Black/dp/B07C3PJ4YG
Looks like Amazon has price matched this one: https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-BarraCuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST2000DM006/dp/B01IEKG402
The Seagate is available on Amazon for the same price.
https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-BarraCuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000DM010/dp/B01IEKG402
What is your budget?
The price difference between a 1tb Seagate hdd and a 2tb Seagate hdd isn't that huge. If you plan on having a lot of games, I would go more liberal with storage.
I personally have a 3tb Segate hdd along with a 500gb ssd. I have movies I download, art I make on photoshop, and games I download so I went with more storage.
I would say use Ethernet (if possible) instead of the WiFi card.
And a Seagate 2TB HDD is only about 15 USD more than your current one.
AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 - 16500
Gigabyte - GA-AB350-GAMING 3 ATX AM4 8500
Seagate Barracuda 2TB SATA 6Gb/s 64MB Cache 3.5-Inch Internal Bare Drive with 7200 RPM (ST2000DM006) 5300
SAMSUNG INTERNAL 2.5-INCH SATA 3.0 SSD 850 EVO 250GB (MZ-75E250BW) 7335
Zotac - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB OC Edition Video Card 13500
HP - 24es 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor 12,300
SEASONIC S12G-550 SMPS -- S12G SERIES 550 WATT 80 PLUS® GOLD CERTIFICATION WITH ACTIVE PFC 6700
G.Skill - Flare X 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory 9500
TP-Link TL-WN725N 150Mbps Wireless N Nano USB Adapter 500
Corsair CC-9011050-WW Carbide Series SPEC-01 3424
Total= 83,559.
Note that I have included a 2TB HDD. If you want 1TB, since you posted yourself, the price goes down to 81,760.
I suspect all you need now is a keyboard and a mouse and a UPS. I left out these things cause the UPS actually depends on the type of PSU you buy. If you go for any seasonic PSU, research well into what UPS is best suited for that PSU.
I highly recommend going on to Linustechtips and post these parts in the build section. People will surely comment and help you even more :)
Good Luck!
You can cheap out on these four things to save some money (but I highly suggest you don't):
Audio Interface: Roland Quad-Capture
Headphones: Beyerdynamic DT 770
CPU: Ryzen 5 1600
GPU: NVidia GTX 1050
HDD: Seagate BarraCuda 2 TB
SSD: Samsung 850 EVO 250 GB
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 2x8 GB
Here's why I chose these components.
Audio Interface: All of Roland's products that I used were well-built, aesthetic and most of all sounding great!
Headphones: I've been using these exact headphones for about 5 years and they are very comfortable, robust and precise in sound.
CPU: The new Ryzen CPUs are in my opinion perfect for music production. They have a nice price-performance ratio and give you 6 cores and 12 threads which can beneficial when using at least 12 tracks (which I assume you will).
GPU: The NVidia GPU is capable of handling most games that are not too graphically intense. You can also pick an equivalent AMD GPU, I have always been with NVidia so that's what I chose.
HDD: The Seagate BarraCuda hard drives are cheap but they work perfectly and 2 TB should be enough to handle all the programs and sample libraries.
SSD: To be honest, I just heard great things of these SSDs. I am sure you can also pick a different brand but I wouldn't risk that with the SSD. 250 GB should be enough for your OS and DAW.
RAM: 16 GB is more than enough and the clock speed of that RAM is pretty high.
Of course you also need other stuff like a PC case, power supply, monitor etc. but I figured I would let you choose these components since they are mostly personal preference. However, I would advise against very cheap power supplies. You don't want them to blow up the whole computer.
Might consider throwing in a HDD just for that extra space [Something like this] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IEKG402/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lXnDzbT3V6MMT)
Nothing else as far as part swapping comes to mind. I would recommend subscribing to /r/buildapcsales though. You'd be surprised how much patience and vigilance can save you.
I think I shaved something like $200 off the total cost of my rig because every part I purchased I either found on sale through that sub, or I found an equally comparable piece on sale in that sub.
For example, this 2TB HDD is double the capacity of the one in your pcpartpicker list, but is only $10 more than the one on your list. So $10 for an additional 1000Gbs of storage is some pretty killer savings and I just found that deal in less than 30 seconds just glancing at the front page of that sub. There are some seriously awesome folks over there down in the trenches digging for deals so you and I don't have to.
They will both perform the same, but if you click on the Amazon link for the Toshiba drive, you'll see you will need to wait 1 to 4 weeks to get it at that price. For $67, you can get a Seagate 2 TB drive that is in stock.
4 TB HDD for $23 less, Seagate too. I have this exact one because I have emaulators for every console from NES all the way up to Wii U with thousands of games in total on them, over 1,200 movies and 100 full TV series. If you are looking for that kind of storage, this is your guy - https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-BarraCuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST4000DM005/dp/B01LNJBA50/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492822223&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=4tb+hdd
Otherwise, you can get a 7200RPM Seagate 2TB for $55 less, and a 525GB SSD for only $13 more than the 240GB one you have listed, I use this SSD and it works brilliantly. Completely silent and it will give you the space to run your most demanding games on - cuts down load times on games like Fallout 4 by a LOT - https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-BarraCuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST2000DM006/dp/B01IEKG402/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492822329&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=2tb+hdd
Alternative AMD build at the bottom of this post
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PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel - Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz Quad-Core Processor | $299.99 @ Amazon Canada
CPU Cooler | CRYORIG - H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler | $46.75 @ Amazon Canada
Motherboard | ASRock - Z270 Killer SLI/ac ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $229.99 @ Newegg Canada
Memory | G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $177.99 @ Memory Express
Storage | Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $136.50 @ Amazon Canada
Storage | Seagate - BarraCuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $62.99 @ Amazon Canada
Video Card | MSI - Radeon RX 580 8GB ARMOR OC Video Card | $389.99 @ Memory Express
Case | NZXT - S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $99.99 @ Memory Express
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $114.99 @ Amazon Canada
Monitor | ViewSonic - XG2401 23.6" 1920x1080 144Hz Monitor | $329.99 @ Amazon Canada
Keyboard | Corsair - K55 RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard | $69.99 @ Amazon Canada
Mouse | Corsair - Harpoon RGB Wired Optical Mouse | $39.99 @ Amazon Canada
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1999.15
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-03 19:00 EDT-0400 |
Notes:
------
With all that being said, I've also put together another build centered around AMD Ryzen 1600. This build doesn't cost as much, and will offer competitive performance to the i5 7600k you originally selected. More importantly, the motherboard supports future AMD Processors until the year 2020, which will make upgrading in the future easy and inexpensive (Intel is dropping support for LGA1151 after this generation).
Here is the AMD Ryzen 1600 build ($80 less).
I would personally recommend the AMD build, however, you can't go wrong with either.
Phil found your post on ifixit and I wholeheartedly agree with that assessment....with the exception of this:
DO NOT REINSTALL WINDOWS IF YOUR DATA IS ON THAT DRIVE!
Take it to a shop or PM and I can give you some links to a few programs that MIGHT be able to read the hard drive (HDD) and hopefully recover things off of it. You will need a USB or an external HDD to put those files on to it.
If you do need another drive I recommend a SSD (Solid State Drive) as they are much more efficient / faster / life longer / and can make an older computer feel brand new :).
I'd recommend this one (SSD if you don't need a ton of storage space of course). If you need a HDD then I'd say this one.
EDIT - you MIGHT be able to access Windows again but you need to access the BIOS, that is what the toshiba setup utility is. So if you access your BIOS (typically turn the computer on and spam the crap out of F11 / F12 / delete all at the same time...it will either bring up a one time boot menu which has bios near the bottom OR it will go right into bios).
Once you are in the bios you can choose the correct boot device with the arrow keys.
Any DVD/CD or USB flash drive inserted? Remove and try booting again :)
Build looks great, only thing I would recommend is this hard drive instead : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IEKG402/?tag=pcpapi-20 As it runs at 7200rpm. Keep in mind though that there is always AMD's Ryzen which is better for multitasking as it has more threads.
Monitors
>Dell UltraSharp 27" 4k "HDR" (sooo beautiful)
Acer KG240 24" 144hz
Speakers
>
Fluance SX6BK (Requires Amp/Stereo for power
PC
>NZXT ELITE
GTX 1060
Samsung 250 EVO
Corsair 650W
EVGA 16GB
i5 7600K @ 4.8GHZ
Corsair H100
seagate 2tb
Peripherals
>Razer Blackwidow Ultimate OG (2011 - cherry mx blues)
Razer Deathadder
Corsair Mouse Mat
Gamecube Controller
Mayflash Adapter
Desk
>2 Ikea Linnmon Table Tops 78" and 39"
Ikea Adjustable Legs
Ikea Shelf (used as 1 leg for smaller corner table)
Merax Racing Chair ($163)
ART
>
(FROM LEFT TO RIGHT)
photo shot on canon 6d and sigma art 24mm
my instagram
In 3-4 months Coffee Lake will be out and Ryzen might see a price drop. Graphics card prices might come back down to Earth also. I'd wait the 3-4 months for the CPU, motherboard and GPU. Be on the lookout for good RAM deals for 2x8GB kits at 3000 or 3200 speed(~$120). Color coordinating the RAM will be tricky with deal hunting. Get black or preferably white. Also a 250GB SSD (~$75), 2TB HDD (~$65), case and decent 600-650W power supply ($50). Buy those components when they hit dirt cheap prices between now and 4 months from now. Then save up for the CPU, motherboard and GPU last.
This case fits your color scheme and is pretty much as cheap as it's ever been.
This is an already good deal for a 250GB SSD. About $82 after shipping and just shy of a Samsung 850 Evo in performance.
2TB HDD is usually around this price. It never really goes lower so you could pick this up now or whenever if it's around $65.
I would go with some white fans and a purple LED strip or two.
Check out /r/buildapcsales, deal hunt on slickdeals and set alerts for price drops on pcpartpicker.com.
Whats the difference between https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01ICLGJF8/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&amp;me=
and https://www.amazon.de/Seagate-ST2000DM006-HDD-Barracuda-2000GB/dp/B01IEKG402/ref=dp_ob_title_ce since they are both Seagate ST2000DM006 drives? Does it make any difference other than price, because they look identical to me?
Amazon link: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IEKG402/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Yes it's a Smile link.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IEKG402/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521012120&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=2tb&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=5152Tk32IxL&amp;ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07598VZR8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521012014&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=i7+8700k&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51cmJqb4I2L&amp;ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075RHWCC4/ref=pd_aw_fbt_147_img_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=Y8HXXRND52YXQAJCPVDA
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0134EW7G8/ref=pd_aw_fbt_147_img_3?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=Y8HXXRND52YXQAJCPVDA
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005BE058W/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521012102&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=evga+supernova+750&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51UcIW5x4QL&amp;ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IR6LMLO/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521012187&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=1080&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51bpp6rWCmL&amp;ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B073SBX6TY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521012150&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=ssd+m.2&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41GJN9qS2CL&amp;ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XX8Q1CL/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521012171&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=nzxt+kraken+x62
The parts are
8700k
Mobo z370
2x8gb ddr4
Kraken x62 to keep the cpu cool
Thx 1080(had to drop the ti due to prices)
M.2 ssd for boot drive
2tb hdd for storage
Evga supernova 750w
If you have extra change invest in noctua high static pressures fan to optimize cooling
Amd Ryzens are pretty nice at the moment and cheap. Ryzen 1600 is a good choice. I recommend a SSD disk and a second one HDD so you have a faster system and also an storage disk. Graphic card will be the hardest. Maybe a cheap 1050 2 gb will do.
Processor: Ryzen 1600 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XNRQHG4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520330748&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=ryzen+5+1600&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=319ktX3yGXL&amp;ref=plSrch
Hard disk (hdd): barracuda works - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IEKG402/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520330798&amp;sr=8-5&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=hdd&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=5152Tk32IxL&amp;ref=plSrch
Graphic card (gt 1050; 2 gb) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MEGB6LK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520330867&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=1050+2gb&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51KuYAEIFPL&amp;ref=plSrch
Motherboard: B350 for ryzen - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06WVFFXXL/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520331052&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=b350&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51%2BX8pCoVML&amp;ref=plSrch
Ram: corsair vengeance 8 gb - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ARHBBPS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520331152&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=ram+ddr4+8gb&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41fGQgRH9hL&amp;ref=plSrch
Heatsink from artic - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005IOLEJO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520331385&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=heatsink+for+ryzen&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51vHMnzWlEL&amp;ref=plSrch
Power supply: standard - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014W3EMAO/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520331603&amp;sr=8-7&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=power+supply+650w&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51jq9j94-TL&amp;ref=plSrch
Case: also standard stuff - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00RORBQNW/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520331936&amp;sr=8-5&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=pc+case&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41Wq97Jk20L&amp;ref=plSrch
The total is around 700. You may need to add some more things put this is enough for full functionallity. Also, I wouldnt buy the parts on amazon, but this way you can search them in a good electronics shop from your country which adds the assembly. Standards can be changed easily, that depends on what you preffer.
CPU COOLER: You shouldn't need a radiator/liquid cooling.
STORAGE: I personally like redundancy over total size. If you don't mind moving away from WD there are some better priced [2TB 7200RPM Seagate drives]
(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IEKG402/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1). I use WD Reds for my server but plain Seagates should do just fine on a regular PC.
MEMORY: Definitely stick with the DDR4-3000. It's the sweet spot for performance.
MOBO and PSU: They both look good. Unless you were after a specific MOBO feature it should do fine.
MONITOR: Monitors are tricky to recommend. Some people like big, some like small. Some find 144Hz important while others don't.
CASE: I like the case, I almost went with it myself. Should meet your needs.
Would you recommend this for other uses, too, like for external storage for a laptop? Or is it bulky enough to just be used with a stationary console?
edit - same price on amazon (once restocked)
Yes, you should do that. Offline storage is pretty cheap. This should be more than enough to back up everything you have from high school through college and grad school.
Western Digital is very popular. Here's a good one: https://www.amazon.com/Black-Passport-Portable-External-Drive/dp/B01LQQH86A/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487946124&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=4tb+external+hard+drive
I added a 4TB external drive exactly for that reason. Benchmarks show the external storage is just as fast if not faster than the internal storage depending on the drives - works great. I added one of these: WD 4TB Drive - got lucky and snagged one on clearance from OfficeMax for $59.
Any sata 3 SSD will work.
The 500gb options I would suggest are:
Budget option: https://www.amazon.com/Mushkin-480GB-Solid-State-MKNSSDE3480GB/dp/B01CN6X09Q?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=pcpapi-20
Quality option: http://www.ncixus.com/products/?usaffiliateid=1000031504&amp;sku=104898&amp;vpn=CT500MX200SSD1&amp;manufacture=CRUCIAL%20TECHNOLOGY&amp;promoid=1221
The 1tb options I would suggest are:
Budget option: https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-2-5-Inch-Height-SDSSDHII-960G-G25/dp/B00M8ABHVQ?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=pcpapi-20
Quality option: http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=1TBMX2SSD1&amp;c=CJ
Note that we are excluding m.2 SSDs as your motherboard will not have the required port for it.
Your motherboard has 4 sata 2 ports(3gb/s) and 2 Sata 3 ports(6gb/s) make sure to use the Sata 3 ones.
Thanks for the advice here, definitely decided to go for an SSD. Went for a SanDisk Ultra II 960 GB
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M8ABHVQ/?tag=storagerealm-20&amp;creativeASIN=B00M8ABHVQ
http://www.ryli.net/ps4-pro-ssd-upgrade-guide/
Cheapest right now
Due to the "nand shortage" prices are high for them right now, cheapest I recall for 1 960GB/1TB before the "nand shortage" was $245 for the Mushkin 1TB on neweggcanada ebay.
They aren't nearly as bad as they used to be
The one I linked is not what one would describe as top of the line, I think, but for a SSD purely for my steam its great.
>These were plagued with high failure rates upon release
This is nonsense.
No one knows failure rates upon release. The seagate 3tb hdd thing came to light with backblazes statistical analysis, not because people knew they were "plagued with high failure rates upon release" - companies dont release failure rates, and people largely go with the balance of reviews.
The amazon reviews are largely positive, and reviews in general are biased towards people who have problems (they're most likely to leave reviews).
https://www.amazon.ca/SanDisk-Ultra-2-5-Inch-Height-SDSSDHII-960G-G25/dp/B00M8ABHVQ
71 five star reviews vs 6 with claims of failure. And we knew about high failure on release? This is not reflective of what consumers see.
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-2-5-Inch-Height-SDSSDHII-960G-G25/dp/B00M8ABHVQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480369245&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=ssd&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_three_browse-bin%3A6797521011%7C14027460011
May not be the fastest, but the load times between top tier and the rest is negligible.
I've been eyeing this drive for two months. I'm upgrading from a RAID 1 with 2x WD Black 1TB (2010) @ 5400 RPMs. It'll be my 'storage/games' drive, not my OS drive, which I'm already upgrading to an 850 EVO 250 GB.
An alternative I've been watching is the Sandisk Ultra II 960 GB. I have a feeling the only difference I'm going to see between the 850 EVO and the Sandisk Ultra II is in a numbered benchmark.
Thoughts?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQUMZRA is a SD card reader to USB hard drive device that uses your phone as the interface. So with this I'd get an external SSD hdd. If you're only doing 1080 recording you can get some massive SD cards for cheap as well.
External hdd http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H98AXOE/
1tb ssd http://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-2-5-Inch-Height-SDSSDHII-960G-G25/dp/B00M8ABHVQ.
I have a 1tb ssd which I think was and is good investment (bought it for $300 a couple of months ago but I heard people getting it for under 200 during Christmas but this is the best offer I could find
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00M8ABHVQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484595615&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=1tb+ssd&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31nPZLyIEgL&amp;ref=plSrch
)
But if you're on a tighter budget I still recommend getting a 60 or 120gb ssd to go with your hdd or maybe a solo 500gb ssd if you dont use much space
Also are you thinking about normal fan or water cooling?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00M8ABHVQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1466009377&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;keywords=sandisk+960gb&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41Uk-fOpvNL&amp;ref=plSrch
Same item on Amazon.ca has a prime deal:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00M8ABHVQ
It's for $215, so right around a $1.30 CDN/US exchange rate (slightly better than actual).
To add to that post, the same SSD's are currently on sale at US Amazon for ~ £145 each.
https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00M8ABHVQ/ozba0e-20
I just picked up this drive today for literally the same reason. I don't have much experience with SSD but this has great reviews and the same if not better read/write speeds than the Samsung.
Oh, that's way more than enough! Heck you could even grab a good terabyte SSD for that much! I'd recommend Samsung SSDs, since they've been proven to last for quite a bit longer than most competitors. Here's a 250, a 500, and a TB. $85, $140, and $285, respectively. I'd personally recommend the 500 GB, as it has a good Price/Capacity ratio. (I also own one myself!)
TL;DR: If the computer that you're looking for has support for an M.2 SSD, you can have both the SSD and the HDD. Otherwise, you'll have to change the HDD for an SSD. Getting an SSD will be expensive, but if you opt for the laptop that already has an SSD, you will be completely unable to upgrade the graphics card. You may want to employ your local nerd to help you change your OS data over to the new SSD. Expect to spend about $300 on the upgrade, but realize that adding an SSD makes the laptop feel faster, not game better.
_____
Look to see if the laptop has support for a m.2 SSD slot. If so, you can have both an SSD and the 1TB HDD for storage/games.
The major improvement for having an SSD is reduced loading times of data that would typically be on the HDD. This means you computer boots in seconds (usually <5 seconds, after the splash screen/logo goes away), has minimal lagging after boot, and storage of any large files are infinitely faster.
However, you are looking at some major costs for an SSD drive: a 1 TB drive looks like it will run you just shy of $300 for either the m.s or a traditional SSD. However, a traditional 1TB laptop HDD will run you as little as $50, and if you step up to a higher performance drive, the price will almost certainly stay below $70.
It is worth noting that with most computers, the HDD will make them feel slow, as loading programs bogs the drive down, especially at startup. However, for gaming, there is no impact on performance aside from loading times. Certainly, the graphics card will have a much larger impact on gaming performance.
As far as how easy the upgrade will be, it should be noted that whether you change to a traditional SSD or to an M.2 SSD, you will have to migrate your OS files over to the SSD in order to see any improvement in speed. This can be a marginally difficult process, so ask your local computer nerd for any recommendations. Generally, the moving of the data is the most difficult part, and swapping the physical drives is no more difficult than upgrading the RAM would be.
A person who can come over and do the process for you will almost always be more helpful than a stranger on reddit. (Especially since said person/friend can see and touch the laptop, here on reddit we only have this forum-text stuff to go by ;)
*Note: The links given are for reference only. I do not endorse any of the brands, and I'm almost certain that you can find better deals and/or higher quality products out there if you search around.
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-75E1T0B-AM/dp/B00OBRFFAS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483532764&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=evo%2Bssd%2B1tb&amp;th=1
then stick the old hd in an external enclosure for storage/backup.
No, a 1 TB SSD is actually closer to $300.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IAGSDUE/ref=twister_B01IB47HBG?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-75E250B-AM/dp/B00OBRFFAS/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497739090&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=850%2Bevo&amp;th=1
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-960GB-Solid-SDSSDA-960GB-G26-Laptop/dp/B01LY5ZZ4P/ref=sr_1_6_f_f_it?s=amazonfresh&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497739137&amp;sr=1-6&amp;ppw=fresh&amp;keywords=1+tb+ssd
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXPENRR/ref=twister_B01N26TZ6M?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Close enough
also these ssds they are better http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-75E1T0B-AM/dp/B00OBRFFAS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1419760468&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=tb+ssd
Anyone know what's the current best price price for a good 1tb ssd is?
_____
This $250 850 EVO on amazon seems hard to beat but dont want to get it if there is likely to be a better price on something today.
You could have a failing hard drive. But as others have said, a Solid State Drive will do wonders. The computer will boot in less than 30 seconds, and launch apps so much faster than before.
You will need to back everything up on your computer before you get started.
happens within 5-10 seconds for me.
using this setup:
I have my res scaled at 150%, all settings on Ultra. GPU limit off. Nvidia Control panel I have all the settings for BF1 set to override to the highest setting if possible.
> BenQ XL2720Z @ 1920 x 1080
> OP: Windows 7 64-bit
> CPU: Intel Core i7 6700K @ 4.00GHz (No Overclock)
> RAM: 16GB Corsair DDR3 @ no clue... (2 x 8 GB)
> GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 FTW (No Overclock) 08G-P4-6286-KR
> DISC: Samsung 850 EVO 1TB
Don't abandon the HDD. An SSD with enough storage space to cover windows installation, programs and games would be extremely expensive. Unless you can spare an extra 300 USD?
As I mentioned in my other comment the best thing for you to do is get a small SSD to run windows off - then have all your extra stuff (which doesn't need to go super fast) on the HDD.
This would keep you closer to the price range of 60 USD or 80 USD.
Okay. Most Laptops take 2.5 inch drives. That's the size of SSD on Amazon.
1TB SSD is 327, still cheaper than a Nintendo Switch...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OBRFFAS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505418600&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=samsung%2B500%2Bssd&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41fw65-8tpL&amp;ref=plSrch&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
Where are you? Amazon says the EVO 1TB is in stock and as of this post they can deliver it by Saturday.
Here's a 5TB for $130 that I've been eying. I don't know how good it is though.
It's not solid state but it would be better, but way to expensive still. It's a Seagate which I hear isn't the best, but it's been perfect for me so far and it's been a year since I got it.
Found the Amazon link I bought it from: http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Expansion-Desktop-External-STEB5000100/dp/B00TKFEEBW?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00
I don't buy a lot. But I game share with a friend and keep almost everything we buy installed. It's nice to have access to everything we buy (especially with EA Access). 3.5TB free and shrinking. If you don't plan on game sharing, you'll likely be fine with 500GB since it wasn't an issue for you on the PS4. If you plan on game sharing, get something like this. I got it last June and have been happy with it. I think having all games on an external with all apps on the internal improves performance. Not sure about that though.
https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Expansion-Desktop-External-STEB5000100/dp/B00TKFEEBW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467944044&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=5+tb+hard+drive
https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Expansion-Desktop-External-STEB5000100/dp/B00TKFEEBW
Its still going on... Hurry up!
SMR is the shingled archival drives, right?
I have a 5TB Seagate and it's write performance is good (35 MB/s). It' s on sale for Cyber Monday too for about $100 USD so 2 cents a gig which seems pretty average.
5TB $118 on amazon
Seagate Expansion 5TB Desktop External Hard Drive USB 3.0 (STEB5000100) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TKFEEBW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dtptyb9G0ZK3K
The new version of this model Seagate 5TB Expansion external is $110 currently on Amazon brand new.
A recovery drive doesn't have anything to do with imaging your system. It's to create a bootable recovery environment to troubleshoot various problems such as an unbootable system.
Why are you backing up to flash drives? They're usually pretty limited in available space. You can pick up a 5 terabyte (5000 megabytes) external drive for around $100:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TKFEEBW/ref=twister_B00UWL08GI?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
the difference is nothing, its just a brand name the drives are the same. The backup drives usually come with a backup program on the drive which can just be deleted but there is no difference with the drives. I recently bought a 5TB Seagate Expansion Drive and its working great.
http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Expansion-Desktop-External-STEB5000100/dp/B00TKFEEBW/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452594937&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=seagate
Whoa. Hold up. Do you have a memory card for every single event/wedding/session?
I appreciate your wanting to keep everything backed up. Very responsible and professional!
There's an easier way though... Check it:
External Hard Drive:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TKFEEBW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
PORTABLE External Hard Drive (doesn't require wall plug-in <fuck off, thunderstorms!> and much more convenient... for a price.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W8XXYSM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I use this. It works really well. Little if any lag time. Seagate
A similar drive was $90 yesterday, I wouldn't really call that a deal for $110.
The same 5TB version of my link above is $110.
Seagate Expansion 5TB - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TKFEEBW/
Edit: Whomever else commented is shadowbanned, fyi.
SanDisk Ultra Fit 128GB USB 3.0 Flash Drive, or similar, if you have a USB 3.0 connection; SanDisk Cruzer Fit CZ33 64GB USB 2.0, or similar, if not. Easy to leave in place without worrying about destroying the drive or port. I've had good experience with the SanDisk line of micro USB thumb-drives. I have one plugged in to my dash in the truck, another in a portable radio, and a third in a netbook. No issues. I use them to hold music mainly; but video, documents, pics, etc do just fine for storage/retrieval. You could go with portable HDD if you need a ton more room, they work for the same application(s) you just cannot plug it in and forget the way you can the micro thumb-drives.
You could get away with the same application on an SD card, though for video you will want to check and see what SD bus speed your rig supports. The latest, UHS II, has throughput comparable to USB 3.0 thumbdrives/HDDs.
If you are thinking of trying to load games on an external device you will want to look at external SSD's. They have the best throughput based on your available connection type (3.0, C, Thunderbolt). USB 3.0 SSD's have about 4x the transfer rate of 3.0 HDDs. They are rather pricey though.
I got this NUC i5 with this 16GB RAM (though it was on a sale when I got it), and this SSD which is crazy fast.
As far as storage space goes, I have only used about 6gb of storage space on my SSD because of how incredibly lightweight the ubuntu server .iso is and that is while I'm running all of the things I mentioned. I have a Synology DS918+ that houses all of my media files for plex and I would be able to use that as an offsite storage by mounting it in ubuntu if I ever needed more space (which I doubt I will).
The NUC that I linked is the tall version which means that you can add in that SSD as the bootdrive for lightning fast speeds and then it also has space for a 2.5" drive as well so you could add a 4TB HDD or whatever else you would choose, and you could also use external storage through USB 3.0 (I keep a 128gb USB backup plugged in at all times that I use to backup important files (automated through home assistant to get my entire config every night) in case of any failure.
You may want to consider a Chromebook. Many of them have very nice displays and keyboards for less money than a Windows laptop, and they can do everything you want them to.
If you'd consider it, I would suggest the Dell Chromebook 13. It has up to 15 hr of battery life, a 1080p screen, a superb touchpad and backlit keyboard, and a very nice case. Also, Google Drive has local document storage, so you don't always need to be connected to the internet to write or edit documents. Here's a review of this model. And for music storage, I'd suggest a low profile USB drive that you stick in the USB 2.0 port on the laptop and forget about.
If you have access to a Windows computer, use 'YUMI' to install as many Linux distributions as you want on a flash drive. I use it to create a toolkit flash drive so I have password recovery tools, hard drive wiping tools and others all on one drive. To answer your questions...
I have this one in our M3P- haven’t had any issues Samsung MUF-128AB/AM FIT Plus 128GB - 300MB/s USB 3.1 Flash Drive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D7PDLXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mk9HDbR4SPKVB
I have this in our MS I’ve had to format is a few times but that I think was the early software not the keys fault. SanDisk Ultra Fit 128GB USB 3.0 Flash Drive - SDCZ43-128G-GAM46 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BGTG2A0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Wl9HDb2H9GXJ6
On Kodi (not on Roku, but can be installed on cheap android sticks) there is an addon named Pseudotv that should do exactly this. It can also "build TV channels" around internet streams. Be sure not to stream illegal content (a lot of youtube videos showing how) and get your mother in law in trouble. Should work great for local content.
If you use a windows based HDMI stick (maybe with a cheap flash drive for storage, there is a nifty Pseudotv library tool.
Note, this can be accomplished without a windows stick for a lot cheaper, using an android stick, and you get better app support (windows 10 apps do not support remote controls out of the box. If you go that route use this to enable remote support in netflix)
There are a lot of options when it comes to client/server setup.
My girlfriend told me that at the end of the day she will buy everything in my amazon cart up to 300 dollars...
But I didn't really have anything I needed or even wanted all that bad.. Took me all day to find stuff lol.
So I got
Corsair Hydro Series H100i v2 $97
JD Fenix Limited Edition Xbox One Wireless Controller $55
Microsoft Xbox Wireless Adapter for Windows $21
Xbox One Play and Charge Kit $24
SanDisk 128GB Flash Drive $32
APC 11-Outlet Surge Protector $35
APC 8-Outlet Surge Protector $25
10 Nylon Lanyards for Small Electronic Devices $4
Still have 8 dollars left over haha.
I typically just edit my local copy of the container, then manually copy/paste it out to multiple thumb drives, because I only really make updates once a year (tax time). I just plug them all into a hub, copy, then paste, paste, paste.
If I were doing it more regularly, I would use a file sync utility. Microsoft's SyncToy is free and powerful, but I'm not sure I trust MS anymore. I would look for an open source sync/backup tool if I wanted to automate it now.
As for brands, I stick with any major brand (Transcend, SanDisk, Samsung, Kingston, PNY, I'm sure there are other good ones) in the format that makes the most sense. For safe storage, something like this would be great (bought one 3 years ago, still going strong):
https://smile.amazon.com/PNY-Turbo-64GB-Flash-Drive/dp/B00FDUHDAC
If you want to keep it in your bag, car, etc., you might want something ruggedized:
https://smile.amazon.com/Corsair-Flash-Survivor-Stealth-Drive/dp/B00YHL1LN8
To keep stuck in a laptop (or in my case, windows tablet) USB port, I personally use this one:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BGTG2A0/
I agree.
The other option I'm looking into instead of the HDD potentially is getting a 256GB USB3.0 drive with a really low profile like this one https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-SDCZ43-128G-GAM46-Newest-Version/dp/B01BGTG2A0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496342789&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=sandisk+small+usb
Although I swear that USB drive was $25 on Amazon when I looked yesterday (it's $35.38 now)...
edit: I looked up the price for that USB drive and it looks like the $25 price doesn't come around too often... https://camelcamelcamel.com/SanDisk-Ultra-SDCZ43-128G-GAM46-Newest-Version/product/B01BGTG2A0
I've just bought a 128GB USB stick for mine. It's the low profile Sandisk drive and it works wonders. It was super cheap too; https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-SDCZ43-128G-GAM46-Newest-Version/dp/B01BGTG2A0/ I've also tried the Seagate Backup Plus 500GB external drive which also powers fine. I don't really want to test if an external HDD can be plugged in for long periods of time just incase anything happens to it. I think USB sticks are more durable.
I'd still recommend a hard drive. Get a powered kit like a Vantec USB enclosure. If you want a thumb drive get a low profile one.
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-128GB-Flash-Drive/dp/B01BGTG2A0/ref=mp_s_a_1_33?keywords=sandisk%2B512%2Busb%2Bflash%2Bdrive&amp;qid=1571104302&amp;sprefix=sandisk%2B512%2Busb&amp;sr=8-33&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
Why use a hard drive for only 80 GB. You can get a 128 GB flash drive for cheaper than that, and you don't have any power problems.
Or, for the same price, you can get a 128 GB flash drive that goes faster than that hard drive.
I do not know of very many books- besides what you will probably read through your CS coursework -but you are on the right track by watching Daniel Shiffman's videos. I have found that many books are just out-of-date reference materials. The best books, articles, and blogs are those that walk you through the development process, such as how they came up with their idea, how they developed the idea, and what they took into consideration when designing and programming it.
My advice, if you have an idea, write it down and/or type it up.
Personally, I have a Microsoft OneNote notebook that I type all of my ideas and programming notes into. It isn't the best solution, but it has worked for me. You could do a word document, or just a plain text file. Just get those ideas on paper.
As you learn more about programming and software design, look through your notes and expand on your ideas. Even if you are no artist, draw a picture of what each screen of your app/game might look like and put it with your notes. If you want to borrow a concept from another app or game- but be careful of copyright -find a video or picture of it and add it to your notes along with what you like and dislike about it.
That is honestly going to be the hardest part about the whole process, finding an idea and developing it into something someone would use or play. Don't be afraid to propose something big, just be realistic on how long it will take to develop.
If you are looking for tools, probably the best for a beginning game developer is Unity 3D, which is free- with paid options available and kind of required when you go commercial -and supports multi-platform development. It uses JavaScript and C#, but if you are comprehending C++, those two will be easy to pick up. Tons of free game assets and tutorials available online as well.
For creating some basic 3D models in you potential game, learn some of the basics of Blender You don't have to be an artist to create some simple models and textures to prototype your game.
For general non-gaming apps, there is Android Studio. I don't have much experience with it, but it appears to be fairly straightforward in design.
I would definitely learn how to use Git, if you don't know already. My favorite GUI- for Windows and Mac OSX -is SourceTree. I would highly recommend using Git with any programming project, even if you are working alone, to keep track of your changes and to make creating backups easier. For example, I have my working copy of my projects on a 128GB SanDisk Ultra Fit USB drive, with Git remotes pointing to bare repositories on my home network attached storage, and one in the cloud at Amazon Web Services. With one click, my entire day's work is backed up to those repositories. . .no worries if I lose my USB drive or my house burns down.
So, that was a unintended wall of text. . .if you want to know anything more specific, feel free to ask.
Great write-up. I'm probably going to buy those pants and maybe another item or two. Even after ~10 long one-bag trips I'm still working on refining my load.
> USB drive x2 – My laptop’s hard drive isn’t huge, so I use these for extra storage.
Check out these tiny Sandisk drives. They're so small you could probably just leave them in your MacBook all the time.
> One thing my bag is missing that I wish I’d had: A European USB charger.
I recommend picking up some small, cheap adapters (look around and you can find even smaller ones) and coupling them with your USB chargers from home.
I prefer multi-port, high-speed chargers (2+ amps/port) such as this one. Even better, grab a 4-port charger if you have more than 2 devices to charge. While Airbnbs have plenty of outlets, hotels are often skimpy—and one of them is consumed by your MacBook—so it's essentially to be able to charge all of your devices with just one outlet.
> Google Maps
Check out the offline maps app called Galileo Pro. It's designed specifically for offline mapping. Google Maps is my #1 choice when I have a connection but it's pretty clunky about offline data. Galileo has tons of points of interest, it can import custom Google maps, and it'll even cache Wikipedia articles related to the area & sights. I've tried tons of offline mapping solutions and this is my favorite. There's a free version as well, but Pro is well worth the petty cash price.
> Plus this:
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BGTG2A0/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_z8iYCb418WADM
Those low profile USB drives can be very useful, indeed. E.g. I bought one for my wife's car radio. Hardly sticks out of the front.
Pixel phones come with USB OTG adapters.
Or buy one of these :
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015Z7XB30/ref=twister_B0797Q6PGD?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
and one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-128GB-Flash-Drive/dp/B01BGTG2A0/ref=lp_3151491_1_6?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525834896&amp;sr=1-6
then its a breeze to do computer backups.
Recently I cleared up my laptop of all pre 2017 music and put it on a tiny tiny 128gig USB. I mean tiny as it’s literally invisible.
SanDisk Ultra Fit 128GB USB 3.0 Flash Drive - SDCZ43-128G-GAM46
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BGTG2A0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xK16Ab1WMDRNT
Been running like this for about 15 gigs and haven’t had any latency issues..
The SD Card only stores programing info for the Roku's apps
If you want to view you media then you need a usb flash drive
I use this on my Roku 3
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BGTG2A0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This is what I got https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BGTG2A0/
Edit: since I assume you're going to ask based on the reviews, I've not had any heat issues even while gaming with it
I use this and it's great,cheap, and small. NTFS is the way to go.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BGTG2A0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BGTG2A0/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Sandisk ultra fit. Wanted something slim line
This is what I have. Not a UK link though.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BGTG2A0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
That should work fine. You might prefer this one because of its small profile and lower price.
Should work; I bought this one as it fit a lot better and looks cleaner plugged in. Only a couple of bucks more:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BGTG2A0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
How about a low profile USB stick like this? I just bought a 32 gb one for 15 euro.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BGTG2A0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492820161&amp;sr=1-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=SanDisk+ultra&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31-ZNaBSStL&amp;ref=plSrch
Here's the tiny USB drive I ordered for my build.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BGTG2A0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I use one of these in my SNESpi...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BGTG2A0/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506521976&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=sandisk+usb&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41UQyYuHnRL&amp;ref=plSrch
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Pentium G4560 | € 63.89 @ Mindfactory.de / Caseking.de
Memory | Crucial 8GB (2x 4GB, 2133MHz, CL15) DDR4-DIMM Kit | € 49,99 @ Amazon.de
Storage | 1TB Seagate Desktop HDD ST1000DM003 32MB 3.5" (8.9cm) | € 46,94 @ Mindfactory.de
SSD | SanDisk SSD PLUS 120GB Sata III | € 49,99 @ Amazon.de
Video Card | 4GB ZOTAC GeForce GTX 1050 Ti Mini | € 149,48 @ Mindfactory.de
Power Supply | 450 Watt XFX Core Edition V2 Non-Modular 80+ Bronze | € 44,52 @ Mindfactory.de
Case Fans | Fractal Design Venturi HP-12 PWM | € 16,56 @ Mindfactory.de
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
Case | BitFenix Comrade Midi Tower | € 33,44 @ Mindfactory.de
Case | Neos Midi-Tower - white / red | € 37,90 / 45 @ Caseking
Case | BitFenix Prodigy M red | € 79,85 @ Caseking
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-B250M-D2V Intel B250 DVI / VGA | € 66,10 @ Mindfactory.de
Motherboard | MSI B250M PRO-VD Intel B250 DVI / VGA | € 71,22 @ Mindfactory.de
Motherboard | MSI B250M PRO-VH HDMI / VGA | € 73,56 @ Mindfactory.de
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-B250M-DS3H Intel B250 So VGA / DVI / HDMI | € 77,21 @ Mindfactory.de
| Total Cheapest | € 490,82
| Total Priciest | € 548,43
For cases I recommend to have 1-2 intake fans on the front and 1 exhaust fan on the back.
If you don't mind spending for 60+ € cases feel free to look at cases from Fractal Design, Corsair or Phanteks. Case and PSU are parts you can usually take over for a new rig and you should'nt feel sorry for spending that much. PSU especially is the most important part of your rig.
You can spend the rest of the 50€ for a 240-275GB SSD, Sapphire RX 470 Nitro, Corsair Vengeance 400W, Windows 10 or a Monitor.
Shipping for free at 12am to 6am Mindfactory
Memory and SSDs went up in price recently and won't fall anytime soon.
Your choice of cpu and gpu should last you for a good while for playing at 1080p 60fps with high settings.
Go for it and enjoy your build :)
EDIT: If possible, try to squeeze in a SSD for about 40€ to solely install your windows os on it.
https://www.amazon.de/SanDisk-Interne-530%C2%A0MB-Neueste-Version/dp/B01F9G414U/ref=sr_1_6?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474889173&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=ssd
The boot time will be night and day compared to a HDD. Furthermore you can install all your steam games etc on your HDD and if something went wrong with your windows system, just reinstall it on the SSD without downloading everything again afterwards.
These are worlds faster than SSDs, if your laptop has a slot for one. Funny enough laptops in the last few years had unused slots for these because the slots are so small.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BN4NJ2J/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
On amazon you can buy good used version samsung 970 evo only 125.79 usd include free shipping, new version 158 usd.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B07BN4NJ2J/ref=olp_f_used?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1539533603&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=Samsung+970+evo+500gb&amp;f_usedAcceptable=true&amp;f_usedGood=true&amp;f_used=true&amp;f_usedLikeNew=true&amp;f_usedVeryGood=true
May I suggest the system below (NAS v3.0) or search eBay for Dell R710 or T710 (R=rackmount, T=tower). Much more powerful and less $$. Also, look into WD EasyStore 8TB @ $140 Amazon or BestBuy; easy to shuck. Look into FreeNAS and Docker for all the apps you want/need to use (www.DockSTARTer.com). The build that follows is to give you a great idea; maybe a different case for more storage, or larger PSU as you want multiple HDDs
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Core-Build (dual CPU) (no storage, no frills)
Total $195.00
Just bought one on Amazon the other day.
WD 8TB Elements Desktop Hard Drive - USB 3.0 - WDBWLG0080HBK-NESN https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D5V2ZXD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9zU.Bb6TK88AG
Amazon has the 8TB Elements for $150.
If you have Amazon Prime, the WD Elements 8TB is currently $222.88 delivered, including GST, from amazon.com.au
https://www.amazon.com.au/Elements-Desktop-Hard-Drive-WDBWLG0080HBK-NESN/dp/B07D5V2ZXD/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=wd+elements&amp;qid=1557610735&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
If you don’t have Prime, I think you need to pay shipping on top of this price.
How recently was "just bought"? I only ask because the product you linked is for a $155 Easystore drive (Best Buy model but being sold on Amazon by 3rd party seller), while Amazon sells 8TB Elements drive for $139.99...
Not necessarily. As long as you can see it before your order it. And you can still order an He8, He10, or shuck an external drive that's still shipping with helium drives inside it.
I'm curious, why does it have to be a helium drive?
Instead of buying the overpriced red drives for $230 each you could shuck 8TB WD Elements external drives for $140 each. The hard drives inside are thought to be re-labeled Reds. That will save you $900.
Me too, although Amazon is selling the 8TB Elements for $149.99, which have longer warranties.
Late edit: I got the Elements mixed up with the MyBook. MyBooks have 3 yr warrnaties, the Elements have 2 years, just like the Easystores.
Amazon current has the 8tb elements for 150.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07D5V2ZXD/
Whats the difference between this one and this one?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D5V2ZXD?pf_rd_p=c2945051-950f-485c-b4df-15aac5223b10&pf_rd_r=YSSSVEXZWAKH7PZJC28F
Never heard of that hard drive, but seems solid otherwise.
Maybe get this Western Digital SSD instead with double the room. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SBX6TY/?tag=pcpapi-20
240gb only holds like 4-5 games large these days.
Power supply also seems sketchy.
yes drop the sound card and graphics card and get this https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-500GB-SSD-WDS500G2B0B/dp/B073SBX6TY/
instead of ssd, it just sticks on motherboard, and you don't have to mess with cables.
https://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Fatal1ty%20Z97%20Killer/
> 1 SATA Express, 6 SATA3, 1 M.2 (PCIe Gen2 x2 & SATA, Supports 30mm, 42mm, 60mm, 80mm, 110mm M.2 devices), 6 USB 3.1 Gen1 (2 Front, 4 Rear), 8 USB 2.0 (4 Front, 3 Rear, 1 Fatal1ty Mouse Port)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B073SBX6TY/
> Form factor M.2 2280
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M.2#Form_factors_and_keying
> 2280 denotes a module 22 mm wide and 80 mm long
Yes.
Samsung SSD warranty has been shit for years.
If anyone's looking for SSD makers with good service, I'd recommend WD. I've done several WD HDD RMAs painlessly and successfully. They're located in the GTA area so you don't have to pay too much for shipping. The turn around time were around 3-5 business days each time.
WD sells NVMe m.2 SSDs as well as SATA in 2.5 form factor and m.2. They are priced better than the Samsungs as well. I don't know too much about long term quality, but so far the reviews for these units are quite good. I personally run a WD Blue m.2 SSD as my game drive/storage. And clarify that I'm not a shill, I use a Samsung EVO 960 512GB as my main boot drive. I'm very happy with my Samsung EVO as well as my WD. I just don't like Samsung's warranty service.
Get a good 500gb or even 1tb if you got the cash. Use it as your boot drive and for games you play and programs you use often. Use the mechanical drives as more long term storage for things you don't need everyday.
Edit: $85 on amazon. Looks like that mobo has an m. 2 slot
WD Blue 3D NAND 500GB PC SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s, M.2 2880 - WDS500G2B0B https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SBX6TY/
It doesn’t appear that your mobo supports NVMe speeds and therefore this would be a waste. While it can accept an M.2 SSD, it wouldn’t be able support this SSD’s speeds. If you’re looking for an M.2 SSD, you can look at the one below. It still runs at SATA speeds though.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SBX6TY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tJg-BbW5HH0R2
Here is a PSU that would be good
Here is a decent SSD, but what to get largely depends on the capacity you want
Amazon Newegg
I'm looking to expand the storage on my Dell XPS 9360 (i5 7200u, 8GB RAM) with an M.2 SSD. To be honest the M.2 slot is a pain to wrap my head around, and I wanted to check with you guys if I understood correctly. I have a few questions:
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3)From my (very) limited understanding it seems like the 860 Evo would be a good option, as it has the same connectors and has double storage for the money of the NVME drives. I'm also considering the marginally cheaper WD Blue 3D SSD as this is the one used by the poster of the teardown and it may help minimize any unforeseen issues I may have.
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I really hope to get some of you guys's input on this as I really want to make sure I'm making the right buy. Thanks!
Why not go with an M.2 form factor to save on wire management and space. Your motherboard has an M.2 slot. This one is priced the same as the one you linked:
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-500GB-SSD-WDS500G2B0B/dp/B073SBX6TY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536083194&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=500gb+m2+ssd
this is what I got, M2 (not nvme) 500gb ssd for $81
Here's my SSD for 35 bucks. It's fantastic, aaaand cost effective! Don't forget to buy a housing too!
Silicon power 256GB
The "Cheap" solution that have been posted on this sub is
This SSD
https://www.amazon.com/Silicon-Power-Performance-Internal-SP256GBSS3A55S25/dp/B075RJS55D/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=ssd&amp;qid=1555536783&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-13
Matched with this enclosure
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
If you want a bigger, or better SSD, the recommendation would be something from Samsung.
Im near broke but I need an SSD for my PC. Which SSD do I want Evo 860 250GB $90 or Silcon Power 256GB $60 Id like to save that ~$30 if there isn't much of a difference
Do you know how it would compare to this one? Silicon Power 256GB SSD 3D NAND A55 SLC Cache Performance Boost SATA III 2.5" 7mm (0.28") Internal Solid State Drive (SP256GBSS3A55S25) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RJS55D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FtC1BbBZC18EF
The fist suggestion most people will have is put that money into getting a newer machine. I'm in the same boat but if you'd like some suggestions for what hardware to get for upgrading your machine here are some:
4GB RAM (MAX)
SSD
Tried to keep things cheap. For the OS 10.6.8 snow leopard is pretty good. :)
This is perfect! Thank you so much!!
So you have this SSD and then this enclosure, right?
So theoretically if I wanted more space I could go with this 1TB SSD?
I just bought these a couple weeks ago for my 1X and they’ve worked great:
256 GB SSD ($31)
USB3 SSD Enclosure
These were the best deals I could find... very well reviewed and work great. Buildings are rendered before I land (weapons take another 0-2 seconds). I got 256 GB because it’s the minimum needed for Xbox and I mostly just wanted it for PUBG. If you want to put a lot of games on it though then I’d get a bigger drive and maybe look at SSHD options (cheaper but supposedly work about as well). Main things I checked were read/write speeds, price, and reviews (specifically reviews mentioning Xbox).
Trust me, for the performance boost you get, this is NOT unreasonably expensive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RJS55D/
SSD missing? Grab a https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RJS55D/ref=sr_1_5?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&keywords=250gb+ssd&qid=1573676628&sr=8-5 at 28 bucks. It's a good boot drive and with AMD StorageMI, you can combine a hdd and a ssd into one large fast drive.
Welcome, by the way.
I know it's not much of a price difference but how much faster is this drive compared to this?
Bigger SSD
Newer PSU version
16GB is probably not needed
Ryzen 2000 compatible motherboard (if you buy from Newegg)
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 2400G 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor | $167.21 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | ASRock - AB350M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $74.99 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $93.99 @ Newegg Business
Storage | Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $43.89 @ OutletPC
Case | Fractal Design - Focus G Mini (Black) MicroATX Mini Tower Case | $54.99 @ SuperBiiz
Power Supply | SeaSonic - FOCUS Gold 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $62.99 @ SuperBiiz
Other | Silicon Power 256GB SSD 3D NAND With R/W Up To 560/530MB/s A55 SLC Cache Performance Boost SATA III 2.5" 7mm (0.28") Internal Solid State Drive (SP256GBSS3A55S25) | $63.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $562.05
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-03-19 01:12 EDT-0400 |
I think your best bet would probably be one of these Silicon Power 256GB SSDs from Amazon. Link.
They aren't the most well known brand and they aren't as good as something like a Samsung SSD, but most people find they work well and at only $63.99 US I'm pretty sure it's the best you're going to get storage wise without increasing your price range a bit or buying something used or completely unknown from eBay.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075RJS55D/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526590738&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=silicon+ssd&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51D0eaOybdL&amp;ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S
Silicon Power 256GB SSD 3D NAND With R/W Up To 550/450MB/s A55 SLC Cache Performance Boost SATA III 2.5" 7mm (0.28") Internal Solid State Drive (SP256GBSS3A55S25) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RJS55D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mk--AbYMA0AFD
I use this one and it works great.
SSD: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075RJS55D/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Enclosure: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
If you need recommendations, These are the exact ones I purchased, but basically just look for good price and decent ratings on amazon. Make sure to get a good usb 3.0 enclosure too, if you didn’t know that already, ssd’s won’t come with a way to connect to USB already in the box.
enclosure
ssd
Edit: looks like I was off by $3. The total is about $43 (before tax, prime shipping).
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Crucial-MX500-CT1000MX500SSD1-Internal-NAND/dp/B077SF8KMG/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3M6B0C8MSB422&keywords=crucial+mx500&qid=1562928810&s=gateway&sprefix=crucia%2Caps%2C141&sr=8-3 It's what i use.
I got the one below and did an internal install. Best upgrade ever. Launching D2 from closed went from 2 mins flat to 57 seconds. The actual hd swap is super simple (~10 mins). The longest part is backing up the files beforehand (ran it overnight) and reinstalling the system software after (took a few hours to install then copy everything back) but it’s not hard if you follow the instructions on Sony’s website.
Crucial MX500 1TB 3D NAND SATA... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077SF8KMG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Split the difference. The MX500 seems to be in the middle between the two on performance, and in the middle on price: https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-NAND-SATA-Internal/dp/B077SF8KMG/
Crucial MX500 1Tb is my suggestion, for the balance of performance:value.
Recent review here
Personal disclaimer: I do like m.2 for the additional space savings and to do away with the cable. I'm too value oriented to find nvme drives compelling enough to yet warrant the additional price outside of specific use cases.
This is probably a good price: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Crucial-MX500-CT1000MX500SSD1-Internal-NAND/dp/B077SF8KMG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538210309&sr=8-3&keywords=crucial+1TB
Even cheaper - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077SF8KMG?th=1
Thanks for the response - but could you explain what you mean? It'a showing me a price of $138 at checkout after taxes.
Is this the SSD you're referring to: https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-NAND-SATA-Internal/dp/B077SF8KMG ?
Wanting to get a 1TB SSD for my PC. I don't have a specific budget set, but I'm trying to go for the cheapest option that doesn't make major sacrifices to quality. I had the 860 EVO recommended to me, and I had the Western Digital Blue and Crucial MX500 recommended if they are more than $5 cheaper than the EVO.
Could I get a second opinion on them? Thanks!
Thanks. Any thoughts on the Crucial MX500? Had a few people recommend it as well.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B077SF8KMG/?coliid=I3KOMVXOEITV2J&amp;colid=9AVZ90E84SVM&amp;psc=0&amp;ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
I use the 1TB MX500
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077SF8KMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=mx500%2B1tb&amp;qid=1558360546&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=mx500&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;psc=1&amp;th=1
With this case
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D2BHVBD/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=ssd+case+3.1&amp;qid=1558360533&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
I gotta ask how long ago you bought an NVMe M.2 SSD, because currently, an NVMe M.2 SSd is virtually the same price as a SATA SSD.
Crucial MX500 SSD 1TB, the most common sata SSD I see recommended around here; $129.
Intel 660p SSD 1TB, the most commonly recommended consumer NVMe SSD; $109, with triple of the speed of the MX500.
It feels like a lot of people around here built their computers 6+ months ago and haven't checked the prices since; NVMe SSDs certainly used to carry a price premium, but these days they are barely any different.
ssd
From a cursory glance,
Motherboard, 16gb ram, ryzen 3600x £291.65 with code pickme5. https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/CCL-4-4GHz-AMD-Ryzen-5-3600X-Bundle-16GB-RAM-Gigabyte-B450M-DS3H-Motherboard/183876451498?ul_ref=https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?ff3=4&amp;pub=5574894536&amp;toolid=10001&amp;campid=5336549684&amp;customid=1860910139&amp;mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fitm%2F183876451498&amp;srcrot=710-53481-19255-0&amp;rvr_id=2193409754007&amp;rvr_ts=9a1137bd16e0a4812e41e3cdffe68660&amp;_mwBanner=1&amp;_rdt=1&amp;ul_noapp=true&amp;pageci=342d09dc-fbbe-4cf2-9bff-73a965b7f496
1tb ssd £93.87.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B077SF8KMG/
650w gold rated modular power supply £58.46
https://www.cclonline.com/product/241960/PR-GP0650-FMG2-UK/Power-Supplies/Riotoro-Enigma-G2-650W-80-Plus-Gold-Fully-Modular-ATX-Power-Supply/PSU1500/?siteID=hL3Qp0zRBOc-b_4VCFK0LG_XxE7zhBOx9A
Rtx 2060 super £327.75 with code pickme5
https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gigabyte-NVIDIA-GeForce-RTX-2060-SUPER-8GB-Windforce-Boost-Graphics-Card/223751363989?ul_ref=https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?ff3=4&amp;pub=5574894536&amp;toolid=10001&amp;campid=5336549684&amp;customid=1860925948&amp;mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fitm%2F223751363989&amp;srcrot=710-53481-19255-0&amp;rvr_id=2193523280002&amp;rvr_ts=9a1f239916e0a48ac2237c6cffc87143&amp;_mwBanner=1&amp;_rdt=1&amp;ul_noapp=true&amp;pageci=1336c139-6de2-4c16-b547-f9017b97172a&amp;epid=15034151126
Nzxt h510 case £55
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07SC658X1/?th=1&amp;psc=1
Gigabyte 5ghz WiFi card with Bluetooth 5.0 £26
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gigabyte-WB1733D-I-1733Mbps-Express-Adapter/dp/B07FBSV1XZ/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?adgrpid=54846044073&amp;hvadid=259223435473&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvlocphy=1007202&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvpos=1t1&amp;hvqmt=e&amp;hvrand=7593172002939644148&amp;hvtargid=kwd-313838297445&amp;hydadcr=11867_1766795&amp;keywords=wifi+card+dual+band&amp;qid=1574543983&amp;sr=8-5
Total price if I didn't miss anything £853
THIS. I did the same and wish I did it sooner. Such a huge difference in evertyhing top to bottom. So worth the upgrade. This is the one I got and was recommended by almost everyone. https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-CT2000MX500SSD1-Internal-NAND/dp/B077SF8KMG?tag=georiot-us-default-20&ascsubtag=t3-1422544513290483796-21&th=1
That SSD seems pricey, you can find a comparable sata ssd for considerably less. Or you could ditch the sata cables all together and get twice the storage and a performance increase for the same price.
Pick one.
https://www.rakuten.com/shop/thekeykey/product/220391/
https://www.amazon.com/Silicon-Power-Gen3x4-000MB-SU001TBP34A80M28AB/dp/B07PHJCCY3?th=1
https://express.google.com/product/SanDisk-Ultra-1-TB-Internal-SSD-2-5-3D-SATA-6Gb-s/12217120870817333890_2066691785351622474_125181302?ved=0CAMQ0FUoAWoXChMIlP6xxaPa4QIVPhgKAx1h9gmiEDE
https://www.rakuten.com/shop/adata/product/ASU800SS-1TT-C/
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-NAND-SATA-Internal/dp/B077SF8KMG/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=MX500&amp;qid=1555759916&amp;s=electronics&amp;sr=1-2
https://express.google.com/u/0/product/Intel-1-TB-Internal-SSD-M-2-2280-PCI-Express-3-0-x4-NVMe/12760206267937484130_9362688051063989884_46586?ved=0CAAQ0FUoAGoXChMI-YPp5c3P4QIVVjAKAx27KA9OEGc
Thank you all so much for the advice. I finally pulled the trigger this weekend and upgraded my mac and the difference is incredible. It would normally take up to 5 minutes for my mac to fully turn on and login. Now its under 30 seconds!
For those looking to do the same thing here's what I did:
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How to upgrade your Mid-2012 15-Inch MacBook Pro
Step 1 - Backup your files
For me this took the longest, I'm not the most organized person. I also saved my keychain, apple mail logins, stickeys, etc. I was in the middle of projects that I needed to jump right back into after the upgrade.
Step 2 - Create a macOS installer on the USB drive
Follow this ---> https://9to5mac.com/2018/10/22/how-to-create-macos-mojave-usb-installer-easy-video/
Step 3 - Plug the new harddrive in via Sata cable usb
This is where my first issue came into play. I skipped ahead and swapped out my harddrives only to try and boot up and my system not recognize the new SSD. I first thought I purchased a dud. The truth is you need to format the new drive for the computer to see it. Plug in the new SSD and follow these instructions to erase and format. I chose Mac OS Extended (journaled) https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT208496
NOTE::: you dont have to use the usb drive, you can install the new SSD first if you want and format from the bootable USB.
Step 4 - Install the new SSD
Follow this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cfiGF_pjqvM
When installed, hold Option on your keyboard and then turn on. Select the USB macOS installer and follow instructions. Install onto the new SSD. Should take 20-30 min
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Step 5 - The Battery
Follow the instructions in the videos on this page: https://eshop.macsales.com/item/NewerTech/BAP15MBU78W/#owctabs
Make sure you set aside some time to do this. The install is very fast however its the calibration that takes some time. After you install your new battery, turn the computer on to test, there should be a little charge in it. Shut your computer down and then plug in. Let it fully charge, the light on plug should turn green. Then leave it for another 2 hours. Turn the computer on, unplug, turn all power settings off (follow video) and let the computer run until the battery is completely dead. Then wait a number of hours. This will calibrate your battery with your system.
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Then plug in and enjoy your new laptop!
I wanna get a m.2 drive, but there are so many companies that I've never heard of. I want to get the Samsung 970 EVO, but that thing is so expensive compared to M.2 SSDs from Addlink, Sabrent and Silicon Power. The thing is, I've never heard of these companies so it makes me wary to buy these SSDs, especially since I'm planning on making it my boot drive. Do I have anything to worry about? Are these SSDs just as good as the Samsung 970 EVO? Does any one have experience with any of these M.2 drives?
Hi, I was able to get this config on the lenovo site right now (10/8/19) for $2,306.20 using the 'THINKPADSALE' coupon.
Processor : Intel® Core™ i7-9850H with vPro™ (2.60GHz, up to 4.60GHz with Turbo Boost, 6 Cores, 12MB Cache)
Operating System : Windows 10 Pro 64
Memory : 16GB (8GB + 8GB) DDR4 2666MHz
Hard Drive : 512GB Solid State Drive, M.2 PCIe-NVMe, Opal
Display : 15.6" UHD 4K (3840 x 2160) OLED, 350 nits, multi-touch, AR/AS with Dolby Vision™ HDR 500
Graphic Card : NVIDIA Quadro RTX5000 16GB
Factory Color Calibration : X-Rite Pantone Factory Color Calibration
Pen : Lenovo Pen Pro
Wireless : Intel AX200 Wi-Fi 6 802.11AX (2 x 2) & Bluetooth 5.0
Warranty : 1 Year Depot or Carry-in with 1Y Accidental Damage Protection Add On
This the configuration that I purchased (still waiting on shipping - Oct 15). My out the door price was $2,357 (with military discount & eCoupon). My usage also includes ML agents with Tensorflow, Visual Studio 2017/2019, Unity, Blender 2.8, virtual machines (need a MAC OSX VM for uploading to Apple's app store), Docker, and various other software.
I understand the need for a decent CPU. I decided to get the 6 core 9850h because of the RTX5000. I chose not to go for the Xeon because ECC memory isn't necessary for the projects I work on in my off time. The price different between the Xeon and the 9850h is quite large, and the performance gap is quite small (outside of ECC).
The OLED screen is supposed to have 100% DCI-P3 coverage, 100% SRGB coverage, and 100% AdobeRGB coverage (though some reviews have shown the numbers to be slightly lower, but with delta E for less than 2 all around).
I personally believe it is a better value proposition to get the 16GB (8GB + 8GB) configuration with the 512GB storage, then upgrade from another vendor such as Amazon or Newegg. 32GB kits (16GB + 16GB) are currently going for around $130 Amazon Link. A 1TB Samsung NVMe SSD goes for around $170 Amazon link
It should be noted that the RTX5000 that comes in the P53 is reported to be the full non max-q version. NotebookCheck Link
Lastly if you are fine with repasting the CPU & GPU it might lead to better thermal results. I haven't seen anything on the P53 yet, but I did find this for the previous model the P52 Youtube Link. While temps didn't really improve a lot, the CPU was running at a higher clock speed.
Edited to improve readability and add links.
Hey! Don't know much about NVMe drives, so do you think the Samsung 970 EVO SSD 1TB would work? Is it a good one or are there better ones? Thanks for the help again!
There are two M.2 slots in the Mag-15. So instead of replacing your 512GB drive, you can just buy a 2nd M.2 drive like this and add it to the 2nd slot
The one in the OP
The one in the comments
If you don’t know the difference you don’t need 32gbs of ram.
I’d like the above user said, get an ssd and ram upgrade as that’s pretty cheap and helps a lot! Especially the ssd.
Samsung 970 EVO SSD 1TB - M.2 NVMe Interface Internal Solid State Drive with V-NAND Technology (MZ-V7E1T0BW) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BN217QG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_i7K3Db5TA5R0K
Your gonna have to reinstall windows.
Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 2666MHz (PC4 21300) C16 Desktop Memory Kit - Black (CMK16GX4M2A2666C16) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0123ZC44Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iaL3Db9MWZM5Z
The ssd will make a HUGE difference as well as the ram should help out but for sure get that SSD upgrade. And don’t get 32gbs of ram. That’s to much.
There are definitely many options for SSD available, my recommendation would be to go for a 970 evo for your 500GB-1TB SSD that you want to guarantee speed on, then do a 2TB Sabrent Rocket (Gen 3) as it is the best price per performance as far as I know and its only problem got solved with some software (previously it couldnt clone 512e, only 4k, in case you wanted to copy over any existing drives you have). For my PC personally, as I just want to use it for gaming, light work, and on/off streaming/video editing purposes, I went with a Seagate Firecuda 510 2TB, as it outperformed the 970 pro or was very competitive with it in all areas for a much, much lower price point (I got mine for $360 on newegg).
As for the mobo, the Taichi chipset overheating was actually just due to the case being used. Your case is a good one, so this shouldn't be a concern at all. Another Taichi issue is possible loud fan, but that is just a possible problem with the base Bios I believe, so as soon as you update that problem goes away. The taichi is regarded as the best board at your price point by respected motherboard expert buildzoid. I'd highly recommend skipping to 18:22 for relevant info, but hey if you have time and want to learn more then go for it. For my PC, I went with the ASUS Crosshair VIII Hero at $360, which was probably overkill but I havent had any complaints with it and it did excellent for me on memory overclocking. I don't think you can go wrong with the Taichi, it has all the features you want and is a great $300 board provided you have a good case.
I know you didnt ask lol but heres how your case's thermals stack up courtesy of gamersnexus: https://www.gamersnexus.net/images/media/2019/cases/h710/nzxt-h710-cpu_all.png
Its middle of the pack at stock which is more than serviceable, definitely not a concern.
Oh and just in case you were curious this is the full build I went with :)
Oh! And a money saving tip: Google shopping/express/whatever they're currently calling it typically has a very good first purchase/sign up/whatever bonus going, could be very worth seeing if a couple parts are available on it so you can knock 15 or 25 bucks off (forgot what the limit was, but they'll advertise it as a %, with an amount limit obviously), all the little savings here and there can add up. Supposedly right now it is 25% off your first order, unsure on the limit. I used it to get a webcam, a couple case fans, and a cd/dvd drive.
e: For some reason this guy has the Rocket as "sambrent" rocket lol, but its a decent video showing some different SSD options and their performance.
I'm a composer / VR developer and use the same PC for both pursuits (i7 6700k and a GTX 1080). I use SSDs for storage including a Samsung NVMe for my main Audio drive. I also use a water cooling system to keep overall fan noise down.
With your budget you could afford the i9 9900k. It has 8 cores / 16 threads which is great for large-scale mixing scenarios, while at the same time has a high single-thread speed which is great for VR.
You could also afford either the RTX 2080 or 2080 ti for enjoying the highest quality VR experiences.
You don't really need more than 16 GB of RAM for VR, but if you're editing video you know how important it is for that.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BN217QG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
You said in another comment you had around 600-800 to spend, so I'll break it down like this.
NVME SSD;
~$100
Samsung 970 EVO 500GB - NVMe PCIe M.2 2280 SSD (MZ-V7E500BW) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BN4NJ2J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_w1GkDb5M852TC
GPU;
~$370
Radeon 5700
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TFRMJXH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Z9GkDbMWVA7XB
OR
~$500
Nvidia 2070
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JGJCX1J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7aHkDb126KN06
Personally I would go with the Radeon since it's giving you close to 2070 performance for about 2/3rds of the price according to reviews.
Both those upgrades are on the low end of your budget and will improve your desktop immensely.
EDIT;
Also if you are actually using that USB wireless dongle, get a pcie card. They're like 20 to 30 bucks at the absolute most for a name brand card.
There is only one M.2 that you need to know about. Samsung 970 EVO or Pro. https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-970-EVO-500GB-MZ-V7E500BW/dp/B07BN4NJ2J
SSD and NVMe prices are dirt cheap now.... My boot drive which is more than 10Gbps - 1.25GBps https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-970-EVO-250GB-MZ-V7E250BW/dp/B07BN4NJ2J?th=1
My storage drives, which is still more than 10Gb since i have 5 raided. https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-75E500B-AM/dp/B00OBRE5UE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539203732&sr=8-1&keywords=850+evo
Thanks for your reply! Would this work?
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-970-EVO-250GB-MZ-V7E250BW/dp/B07BN4NJ2J/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538587091&sr=8-3&keywords=nvme%2Bssd&th=1
&#x200B;
(Samsung 970 EVO 500GB - NVMe PCIe M.2 2280 SSD (MZ-V7E500BW))
Might be sold out on Google Express, but still readily available at Newegg, Amazon, and BestBuy (need to price match) for $116.99. Could just eat the $17 and just call it a day, if anything.
Looks great! Only thing I would suggest is if you have an extra 40-50 dollars upgrade to a Samsung nvme sad. Will be much faster than the adata and I believe there is a sale on the 970 evo
Ninja edit: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-970-EVO-250GB-MZ-V7E250BW/dp/B07BN4NJ2J?th=1&amp;psc=1
IMO, you may ditch the M.2+SSD and replace it with a traditional spinner like the 2TB WD Blue and beef up your SSD with this, there is a later possibility that 1TB SSD may fill later so invest in HDD if you want to install more games later.
What quality do you want the games to be? In Pakistan gaming parts are insanely expensive, my GTX 1060 cost me nearly 40,000 alone. I'd recommend just not buying parts here if it's possible for delivery from abroad.
If you're sure, what city do you live in? I can recommend some general parts you might want to aim for in that range.
As for your PSU, cooling and case. Stick to air cooling and see what cases you have in terms of availability nearby, people really try to rip you off. This thermaltek case is what I got in Karachi for around 8000 Rs. You probably won't need additional fans with this so the cooling is mostly eh.
As for PSUs, never cheap out on these. I'm not entirely sure about the availability here in Pakistan, but it depends on your parts really. You will likely need a stabilizer to ensure your computer isn't blown up incase of short circuits, load shedding or low voltage. I'd recommend the EVGA 650 GQ but once again, EVGA doesn't sell in Pakistan so I'll have to look into it.
I think you may get these within your budget or you may or may not end up going outside your budget because of the GPU. If you're gonna order online or get retail it also changes things. Feel free to ask any questions, also check out groups on facebook like Pakistani PC Gamers as u/muhammad1236 recommended, you might be able to learn a bit more since I'm not invested in the Pakistani market (made my pc a year ago) but I can give you the general outlook.
Crucial MX500 is m.2 sata with a different connection port and will not work with P53
here is for your reference what type of m.2 nvme you should be looking for https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-970-EVO-500GB-MZ-V7E500BW/dp/B07BN4NJ2J/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=m.2+nvme&amp;qid=1569955607&amp;s=electronics&amp;sr=1-3
here is the best place to read and learn about ssd, different brands and what will work for you (depending on your workflow) https://www.reddit.com/r/NewMaxx/
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Good changes for sure, I would look into either an M.2 SSD or Intel Optane for your HDD. Been doing research on them for my build and they seem super nice. Also, if there is a Microcenter near you, 8700K is 30 bucks off that Amazon listing.
Samsung 970 EVO
Intel Optane
You could try and cancel your order if you feel strongly about upgrading your drive. As you can see, you can buy a top of the line Samsung drive for the same price as the SSD upgrade.
Every HD on the planet will die eventually. Not a matter of if but when.
I like the WD My Passports.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LQQH86A
4TB for a bill is a great deal. USB 3.0-pwered, small. No AC adapter needed.
Ultimately, SSD is going to be faster no matter what. However, I havent noticed any issues with loading times. I'm using this one.
Suggest you go for wd drives as they have world wide warranty.
Down side will be import duties and shipping charges.
Have a look at this. Looks reasonable.
WD My Passport 4TB Portable External Hard Drive (Black) https://www.amazon.in/dp/B01LQQH86A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rT28ybH0609CM
This isn't exactly what you wanted, but this 8TB external hard drive from Best Buy pretty reguarlly goes on sale fopr $160-170
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/wd-easystore-8tb-external-usb-3-0-hard-drive-black/5792401.p?skuId=5792401
It's currently $200. That's still a decent price. Just if you keep an eye on it, it will drop again in the next couple months.
Alternatively, this 4TB portable hard drive is only $110:
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Passport-Portable-External-Drive/dp/B01LQQH86A/
It is smaller and does not require an external power source. The trade off is that it is not as fast.
Sorry for terrible formatting, on mobile.
Ok so here’s the deal. There are about a million options out there, and each of them has its ups and downs.
This is gonna get a little technical but let’s start by breaking things down into 2 categories: hard drive vs solid state, and offline vs online.
The most common solution here would be to get an external hard drive. They are generally designed to ‘plug and play’ directly into a computer and store whatever you put on them. They’re fairly cheap but they are mechanical so you have to handle them carefully and not move them when in use or you risk physical damage and data corruption. They usually come at two different speeds: 5400 or 7200 RPM (rotations per minute). The higher the number the faster data can be accessed.
Solid state is the newer, more expensive cousin of the hard drive. Whereas HDDs are mechanical, SSDs are digital. Without the moving parts, SSDs are more robust, and significantly faster. They’re also way more expensive.
Now on to where things get interesting. Most external storage is offline, but some newer options exist that can be connected to the internet and allow you remote access to your data.
The cheaper devices in this category are usually called something along the lines of a ‘personal cloud’, and they’re a 1 - 10 TB HDD with software that lets you access them over the internet.
Higher end devices are usually called a NAS which stands for Network Attached Storage. These are basically servers to allow you high capacity data storage, and can be made to store hard drives in a variety of sizes and configurations.
Ok, so where do you fit in to all of this? What you need really just depends on what you want to use it for. How much space do you need? How fast do you need to access it? Do you want remote access to your data, or shared access with family and friends?
The truth is most people are gonna be fine with a simple external hard drive like the one already linked in the comments. I usually recommend a western digital like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LQQH86A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XeoYDb7V1HT0A
They’ve worked well for me. If you want something more interesting, look into WD’s personal cloud option:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076CTK55W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dhoYDbH3X5XBF
Or if you get curious about the higher end stuff, you can always check out names like Synology, Asustor, and Qnap. I have an Asustor and love it.
I got this one at BB for $85 but the 3TB
WD 4TB Black My Passport Portable External Hard Drive - USB 3.0 - WDBYFT0040BBK-WESN https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LQQH86A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ABCHzbX5VFKCA
Works great so far
Others like the sea gates as well
This is what I got a few years ago when I had the same issue. Super easy to set up. Felt like when the sandlot kids found all those balls and could play forever now. $100 isn’t cheap but it’s huge, and if it’s cheaper per TB than going for a 1 or 2 TB HD.
Western Digital My Passport hard drives are pretty good. You can get them at great prices if you can get someone to bring them from USA (4TB USB hard drive for around 12.4k rupees).
A quick search on the net gave me these two links that should deliver in Pakistan:
WD 4TB for Rs. 14.2k
Transcend StoreJet 4TB for Rs. 18k
I don't know how reliable these two websites are so researching before buying is recommended.
Give your local Best Buy a call and ask.
Amazon Link:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LQQH86A/
Best Buy Link:
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/wd-my-passport-4tb-external-usb-3-0-portable-hard-drive-black/5605533.p?skuId=5605533
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Put your JAV on one of these in whatever color you want. They have plenty of speed - I use one of these to run a PLEX server that has nearly 300 movies on it plus TV shows and I still have 3 TB left.
This one, one of the higher reviewed ones on amazon https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01LQQH86A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
that is a very valid point but if you wanted very crazy speed you probably should have gone with NVMe. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYFKX41/ref=twister_B01N78T39B?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
But even at that the performance is not very noticable between normal SATA and NVME even at 5x the benchmark speed, I highly doubt it would be noticable between two SATA III drives since they saturate the SATA bandwidth easily
What would be the better option between these two SSDs?
Samsung 2.5" 256GB
Samsung M.2 250GB
I've tried to do research on the topic and it seems like M.2 are the faster option; for the same price it seems like I should go with the latter option, but what are the pros/cons of going with a 2.5" vs M.2? Are there other SSDs that come highly recommended in this price range?
> The M.2 slot is 2280-sized, SATA III with B&M key. (I have no idea what that means)
m.2 connector
22x80 mm (the dimensions of the SSD)
SATA III - interface
The SSD you want to buy, has to meet these requirements. For example this one would fit:
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-850-EVO-Internal-MZ-N5E500BW/dp/B00TGIW1XG/
Just be aware that there also m.2 SSD (22x80 mm) out there which have a PCIe interface, and not a SATA III one:
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-960-EVO-Internal-MZ-V6E250BW/dp/B01LYFKX41/
Bam 250 gigs of stupid fast storage for ~100 bucks. And if you don't have an M.2 on your motherboard you can always get a PCIe riser for like 15-25 bucks.
If you're wanting to be fully satisfied, I'd get this and forgo the 2 hard drives he's listed. It's a bit small, at 250, but you'll be able to fit several titles on it before you need to worry about a storage drive and it's blazing fast for about the same price. It'll plug right into that Gigabyte mobo he has listed: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-960-EVO-Internal-MZ-V6E250BW/dp/B01LYFKX41/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1509638666&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=samsung+evo+960
I'm planning on a very similar build as yours! The list seems pretty good to me.
If I had to point one thing: the mobo supports NVMe drives, so at the $100-150 price range I'd recommend bumping up to a Samsung 960 Evo for faster read and write speeds. It's not as much of a day-and-night difference as jumping from a HDD to SSD, but it's still an improvement without paying not too much more (unless the Kingston SSD goes on sale, that is).
Once you finish building, check the GPU temps and then determine whether you will need additional slim 120mm fans under your GPU.
If you can spend the extra $30 you should consider going with a NVME drive instead of a 2.5" SSD.
Samsung 960 EVO Series - 250GB PCIe NVMe - M.2 Internal SSD (MZ-V6E250BW) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYFKX41/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kNHFAbR549TJ4
I would recommend a 128GB or higher. The reasons you will want at least 128GB would be one for SSD health you want to over provision the drive about 10% using the software. This ensures fast performance even during max capacity. Windows install itself will be just under 20GB but it will want to update from time to time and you need space for the updates, not only for the download of the updates themselves but for it to actually unpack and install the updates.
I'll list a couple of SSD's I would recommend. M.2 will be more expensive but has over 4 times faster performance. Honestly you may not notice it though as the SATA SSD is already really fast.
For SATA:
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-500GB-Internal-MZ-76E500B-AM/dp/B07864WMK8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518232438&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=860evo&amp;th=1
For M.2:
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-960-EVO-Internal-MZ-V6E500BW/dp/B01LYFKX41/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518232593&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=960%2Bevo&amp;th=1
This looks fairly solid for both of your intended goals. I might suggest using a Samsung 850 EVO instead of the Crucial drive. I would also recommend adding a Samsung 960 NVMe drive for your OS drive.
Get an NVMe drive:
For the reviews: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYFKX41/ref=psdc_1292116011_t1_B01M4OO1FT?th=1REG/samsung_mz_v6e250bw_250gb_960_evo_nvme.html
Ok since your friend needs it mainly for editing, he's going to need a good CPU, good amount of RAM, an ok-to-decent GPU, and as much storage as he can get.
Ryzen 1700 processor - Rs. 25,100/-
Asus X370 Pro mobo - Rs. 12,900/-
GSkill Trident Z 32GB 3000 MHz RAM - Rs. 28,000/-
Asus Strix GTX 1060 6GB GPU - Rs. 25,450/-
Samsung 960 EVO 250GB m.2 SSD - Rs. 12,975/-
Seagate Barracuda 3TB 7200 RPM HDD - Rs. 7,950/-
Thermaltake 500W 80+ Gold PSU - Rs. 5,125/-
Corsair 100R Case - Rs. 3,300/-
Total - Rs. 1,20,800/-
This should be able to handle editing even up to 4K pretty comfortably. The X370 board is simply so your friend can put in an additional GPU for SLI later if he feels the need. I've read that even editing programs are getting increasingly GPU dependent nowadays, so that might be helpful later. If this configuration is too far past the budget, then you can get 16GB RAM at 11K and get a B350 mobo for about 8K.
This particular B350 supports only Crossfire, so if you still want the option of a dual GPU setup later, you can change your GPU to a RX 580, which retails for about 24k (but is currently out of stock everywhere).The total cost then will come to around9899K.EDIT: See u/ReddyPs' comment below. Stick with an Nvidia card for now.
Have you considered going from an SSD to an m.2 NMVe? Not too sure if that MOBO has a slot, but holy shit are they blazing fast. I picked up a 500gig and will never go back to standard SSD. I can reboot in like 12 seconds, and everything just seems so snappy. Perhaps you could go with 16gigs and go with an NMVe... Others jump in if you think anything different.
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-960-EVO-Internal-MZ-V6E500BW/dp/B01LYFKX41?th=1
Check out the read/write comparison of this to the traditional SSD. This is one of the big reasons that MOBO I suggested is amazing. But you can definitely wait for this.
I know it's super hard to wait, but if you're planning to buy more ram in 2 weeks, then I would save the money and just get 16gb in 2 weeks and hold off on this build.
But to answer your question, 1 stick will work just fine in the mean time. Don't waste the money on a 2x4gb setup, 16gb is pretty much the sweet spot for gaming right now. 32 is unnecessary and overkill for gaming.
However, you've got a real nice pc build planned out! Congrats
Another word of advice, most pc enthusiasts will tell you to clean the thermal paste off the cooler and reapply before mating it with the CPU but if yours is anything like mine was, it came from the factory perfect. Plus it hasn't had enough shelf life to affect the paste on the cooler itself. Leave it and save yourself a step. I just booted my pc after getting off work, my CPU idles at 31 degrees Celsius with the Wraith cooler and factory applied paste.
That's perfect really, if you wanted to save a bit of money you could also get the Dark rock 3 non pro, in the UK there's about a 30GBP difference, otherwise if you're happy with paying extra the PRO is fine, they're equelly as good.
The MSI board is good too because with that board you will be able to OC your ram quite easily to 3600MHz which is what I have done with my 3000 ram as well.
Your motherboard also has an M2 slot so I would suggest switching out the Corsair SSD for this https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-960-EVO-Internal-MZ-V6E250BW/dp/B01LYFKX41/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493821134&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=samsung+ssd
Samsung makes the best SSD's in the market and this one will be perfect for your system in terms of reliability and speed.
There's nothing wrong with it overall just two things to look at:
Info | Details
----|-------
Amazon Product | Samsung 960 EVO Series - 250GB PCIe NVMe - M.2 Internal SSD (MZ-V6E250BW)
>Amazon donates 0.5% of the price of your eligible AmazonSmile purchases to the charitable organization of your choice. By using the link above you get to support a chairty and help keep this bot running through affiliate programs all at zero cost to you.
Obviously, these could all be straight spitballing, but I see varying dates:
Amazon claims Jan 1st for the 1TB/2TB 960 Pros and Dec 11th for the 250GB Evo
Newegg claims Jan 2nd for the 960 Pros and Dec 13th for the Evos
B&H claims Dec 8th for all of them
Maybe i'm getting old, but I don't see how people game on a 15" laptop. I'd say the 17 and throw an SSD in there. You can get a 256GB Samsung 960EVO SSD for 120 bucks. There's also a 500GB for 220. Download the migration software from Samsung's website to clone your OS and you're good to go. Make a windows backup on a flash drive before you do. An 8GB stick of ram is 60 bucks (G.Skill Ripjaws). For 180, you can have thee same specs and a bigger screen for 30 bucks more.
SSD
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-960-EVO-Internal-MZ-V6E250BW/dp/B01LYFKX41/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504974470&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=ssd+960
RAM
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820232153
Looks like a pretty solid build. The only thing I would change is your main storage. I would do a NVMe M.2 to replace the 860 Evo. I personally have the 256GB 960 Evo and absolutely love it. It's not 500GB, but I haven't had any low space issues with it yet almost a year in.
And for future posts, PC Part Picker has a button to copy your build in markdown so it plays nice with reddit :)
If you don't need AMD/Nvidia graphics, you might consider a NUC. It's really hard to find a smaller form-factor PC than that. You still would need to pack a monitor (although you could mount it to the back), mouse, and keyboard, but the PC itself would be super-small. You could get (e.g.) a 7i5 for less than $350, then add 8 GB of RAM ($80), and an M.2 NVME SSD for (Samsung 960 EVO M.2) for $115. Obviously you could choose to spend more on RAM, or the SSD, or add a 2 TB HDD (for the tall version).
I have this model as the family PC and it handles the likes of Guacamelee and Grow Home without issue. I haven't tried anything more demanding on it.
Thank you for your help!!! Thanks for explaining everything as well. This is very interesting stuff to me so I think I will try to learn more myself. I was able to find this site here https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/build-your-own-pc,2601.html so I think I will try to learn more about the parts to know what they do. But if there's something I don't understand I will ask :)
For the cpu is there another alternative like intel? My two buddies keep mentioning to go with a intel 8600k? And my other question was if you know the difference between the SSD you mentioned and this one. My buddy was saying choose the NVMe version but I had a hard time understanding his reasoning because english isn't his first language.
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-960-EVO-Internal-MZ-V6E500BW/dp/B01LYFKX41/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526377361&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=samsung%2Bevo%2Bnvme&amp;th=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B01LYFKX41/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&amp;condition=all
There's a couple cosmetic damaged item 960 evo M.2s in stock if you want to snag them instead. $99.96
Hey OP! I've just ordered this Mobo in the mail and am confused on the M.2 options of this model.
Are both drives NVME, that would fit something like this one here or are either of them this style of M.2?
Sorry if dumb question, I'm not sure how to distinguish the two M.2 slots. I know the first link is NVME and second is not, but I don't know if there are different names for the two M.2 slots.
Watch out; "M.2" is simply an SSD form-factor. If you're looking for a super-fast (but more expensive) SSD, what you should be looking for is an "NVMe M.2 SSD". The keyword here is "NVMe", which is the interface that blesses an SSD with extremely high speeds. An example of this would be the Samsung 970 EVO.
If you're looking for a regular-fast (and cheaper) SSD, what you're looking for is a "SATA M.2 SSD". The keyword here is "SATA", which is a slower interface that is limited to a max theoretical transfer speed of 6Gb/s (6 Gigabit, or 0.75 Gigabyte). An example of this would be the WD Blue M.2 SSD.
>What the speed up to on m.2?
Here's a comparison:
The Samsung 970 EVO, which uses a PCIe Gen 3.0 Interface, has a Maximum Sequential Read Speed of 3,500MB/s (spec listed on Samsung website).
The Corsair MP600 drive (listed by /u/yeezust), which uses a PCIe Gen 4.0 Interface, has a Maximum Sequential Read Speed of 4,950MB/s (spec listed on Corsair website).
Nah the psu is perfectly fine. Don’t think they’ll be going for a 2080 TI plus you won’t find any sfx with a higher wattage than 600 (Corsair has one for 750w) but it’s expensive. I have a similar set up except the 600w Gold rated on a gtx 980 and an i7-9700k, nearly identical set up
You’re spot on about the m.2.
WD Blue 3D NAND 1TB PC SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s, M.2 2280 - WDS100T2B0B https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SB2MXT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ph4lDbW120T9Z
This one is good though not NvMe fast speeds,
The one OP has is solid and it’s on sale $150 isn’t bad for an NvMe 1tb but here are ones a little cheaper
Silicon Power 1TB NVMe PCIe Gen3x4 M.2 2280 TLC R/W up to 3,400/3,000MB/s SSD (SU001TBP34A80M28AB) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L6GF81L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tj4lDb7HY225A
Crucial P1 1TB 3D NAND NVMe PCIe M.2 SSD - CT1000P1SSD8 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J2Q4SWZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1j4lDb9MCJZFM
Kingston Digital SA1000M8/960G A1000 960GB PCIe NVMe M.2 2280 Internal SSD High Performance Solid State Drive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C8NNQ4Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ml4lDb73E6M6P
This build will get 144+ even in new AAA games.
Only changes I would make: NVME SSD's do basically nothing for gaming, get a 1TB SATA for the same price.(Or 500 and save money)
850W PSU is super overkill, I would get either get EVGA G3 650/750 or P2 650/750.
Edit: Also you can't OC on that motherboard, get a Z370. If you don't want to overclock then don't get a K cpu and don't get water cooling.
For gaming, does it make more sense to go for this or the slower but cheaper Western Digital?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B073SB2MXT/ref=twister_B07J4K9P1X?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Just want one drive in new build.
Thanks for any advice.
No worries.
I bought this WD SSD:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SB2MXT/ref=twister_B07BXC53V5?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
And now I'm a little pissed because I just bought this SSD a week ago and it was $149 when I bought it and now it's $135.
Anyways, it was sort of a pain in the butt to install since Dell doesn't give you any way to make a backup on USB or DVD. I had to install the SSD, clone the stuff off the HDD onto the SSD using the WD Acronis software that you download from the WD website and then disconnect the HDD and let the laptop boot up with the SSD so the laptop would boot to the SSD instead of the HDD. And then I had to reset the install on the SSD because something was wrong with the SSD partition.
But it was worth it. It was quite painful having to wait so long for the laptop to boot from the HDD.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SB2MXT/
1TB for $149.99
Monitor /r/buildapcsales SSD's seem to be coming down in price.
>WDS100T2B0A
Yes, just be careful not to get the M.2 or PCI versions. For example, this one should work on a standard SATA drive connector:
https://www.amazon.ca/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0A/dp/B073SBQMCX/
&#x200B;
This one is an M.2. style, which would *NOT* fit your board
https://www.amazon.ca/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0B/dp/B073SB2MXT
&#x200B;
The model #'s are pretty similar, but you can see from the pictures that they're quite different (M.2 is a chip style, whereas the standard SATA is roughly the size of a laptop drive). Note that while standard SSH's are the size of 2.5" laptop drives, most come with a little plate or whatever to fit a full-size (3.5") bracket for desktops
A net não é só pornhub, também é para aprender. :D
---
Eu já percebi. Olha, esse especifico que disseste. esse é NVME... Como já disseram antes, desses é dificil de encontrar a menos de 100€. A principal diferença é que esses chegam a velocidades de 2000MB/s e os SSD SATA M.2 estão limitados a 600MB/s do sata 3.
Em jogos isto nota-se pouco, se trabalhares com ficheiros grandes (video, photoshop, etc) é que vais notar a sério.
Isto seria a minha recomendação para ti
https://www.amazon.es/Western-Digital-WDS100T2B0B-Blue-Internal/dp/B073SB2MXT/ref=sr_1_3?__mk_es_ES=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&amp;keywords=1TB+ssd+m.2&amp;qid=1575025816&amp;sr=8-3
ou isto
https://www.amazon.es/Crucial-P1-CT1000P1SSD8-s%C3%B3lido-Interno/dp/B07J2Q4SWZ/ref=sr_1_4?__mk_es_ES=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&amp;keywords=1TB+ssd+m.2&amp;qid=1575025854&amp;smid=A1AT7YVPFBWXBL&amp;sr=8-4
Esse ultimo tem más reviews (vê no youtube), informa-te
Hrmmm, maybe for video, but loading and playing games , an nvme has 4x the bandwidth, no seek times, and no damage with vibration, and about 2-10 times the mtbf.
No moving parts means less likely to fail, faster loading, lower energy costs, faster to recover from sleep mode (no spinning up again)...
Hard drives are good for backup but not primary storage with the prices on SSD's dropping like crazy.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SB2MXT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_JmxWCbNHATCTY
107$ for storage 1tb
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MH2P5ZD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_4oxWCbY35HFRK
107$ for boot and gaming 500gb
And I know you don't want to admit that storage doesn't affect frames per second... You're right...
But how many times are you going to die in a game and have to wait at a loading screen? 20-30 seconds? 5 deaths = 100 to 150 seconds of loading screens...
All because you went with an old cheap SATA HDD you're throwing your own time in the garbage.
Look at uptime/useable time and you will see the investment pay out in load times.
The Kingston drive you have in your laptop is an M.2 drive, specifically a 2280 M.2 Sata Drive. It uses a SATA interface to talk to the computer, but it doesn't use the same connector, meaning the drive you've found on Amazon won't fit in that socket.
You should have a SATA connector in your laptop, meaning you should be able to install that Crucial drive above without an issue, you'll just need to remove the old drive to ensure it doesn't cause any ongoing issues.
For ease of install, you can just replace your existing, knackered drive with another M.2 SSD, this WD one for example, or this one from Crucial to get you back on track.
Your CPU and GPU combo are great for 1440p gaming. I have a 2600 and Vega 64, and I consistently hit over 100 fps on 1440p games like Destiny 2 and Apex Legends with proper overclocks/undervolts.
From what I understand, the 2060 Super is a bit stronger than the 64 so you should be good.
I also have the same monitor and love it, so good choice there.
In regards to storage, it depends on your budget. I have this one as my boot drive, and works great: WD 500GB m.2
Obviously you can choose larger storage if your budget allows.
Power supply: EVGA 650W Power Supply
I have this one and it works reliably. According to your parts, a 650W should be safe enough, but again, your budget really determines how you go with this.
Dude, get a 1TB if you're dropping that much. I recently dropped a Crucial 1TB into my laptop, paid $158 for the drive and an adapter so the old HDD could replace the CD/DVD drive (because I need the extra space more than a disc drive >.>). Literal night-and-day difference, even my modded-to-hell Fallout 4 takes less than a minute to load. Going back through CoD 2 lately, and I can finally relate to the "game loads so fast you can't read the hints/tips" memes.
I installed one of these in a friend's laptop and it's been really great for her. She says it's like a brand new machine.
$250 for a 1TB SSD is really reasonable.
Link for the lazy
so this one
https://www.amazon.de/Crucial-MX500-CT500MX500SSD1-Internes-NAND/dp/B0784SLQM6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=31BWMVP2OB30U&keywords=mx500+crucial&qid=1561970964&s=gateway&sprefix=mx500+cru%2Caps%2C499&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1
Same price on amazon.ca if you want it from there:
SATA: https://www.amazon.ca/Crucial-MX500-500GB-NAND-Internal/dp/B0784SLQM6
SATA M.2: https://www.amazon.ca/Crucial-MX500-500GB-2280SS-Internal/dp/B077SQ8J1V
Crucial's MX500 500GB SSD is currently selling for about $135 on Amazon; link is here. Crucial's SSDs are pretty good; I've got one in my laptop right now, and it works great.
Hey all i'm looking to get a 500GB SSD but I'm not sure if there's a huge difference in performance between the ones I like.
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-500GB-NAND-Internal/dp/B0784SLQM6
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781Z7Y3S/ref=psdc_1292116011_t1_B0784SLQM6
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-NAND-500GB-Internal/dp/B072R78B6Q?tag=pcworld02-20&psc=1&ascsubtag=US-001-3234838-000-1439522-web-20
&#x200B;
I hope it's ok to post links like this. Thank you
Ich möchte hier trotzdem ein Upgrade anregen. 120 GB werden schnell knapp, vor allem wenn man noch ein Spiel auf der SSD installieren möchte. Rede da aus Erfahrung. Vor allem bei den momentanen Preisen.
70€ für 500 GB:
https://www.amazon.de/Crucial-MX500-CT500MX500SSD1-Internes-NAND/dp/B0784SLQM6
https://smile.amazon.com/HP-Laptop-Radeon-Graphics-15-db0069wm/dp/B07K1STZHB/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1549177647&sr=1-3&keywords=2500u+laptop
+
https://smile.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-NAND-SATA-Internal/dp/B0784SLQM6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1549177697&sr=1-1&keywords=mx500&th=1
+
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820232154&ignorebbr=1&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker,%20LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=
= $530 then sell the 1TB HDD for $40 = $490
Save $15 on the hdd here https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0784SLQM6/ref=twister_B07FYVTTND?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Bump up your ram speed big time & save money here
https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Vengeance-3000MHz-Desktop-Memory/dp/B0134EW7G8/ref=pd_rhf_gw_p_img_15?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=MM8THT9NNC9K2ZD3FA8V
Sure thing,
ssd
It's probably the SSD. This is why I never buy or recommend off-brand SSDs seen them fail/be DOA way too many times. Return it and get a Samsung 860 EVO or Crucial MX500 instead.
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0784SLQM6
Even Less
Thanks for the advice, would this be a good choice for the price? https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0784SLQM6/ref=twister_B07PMS54X2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;th=1
If you are doing things that may require HDD access other than playing PoE, that will exacerbate the problem by introducing queueing and additional seek times.
If it's an option at all, a reputable 500 GB SSD can be had for as little as $68. If you want to take a chance with some C-tier brands, it's even cheaper. It makes a huge difference in how a computer feels, and would highly recommend one.
without ref link
It's $129.99 on Amazon right now
Cheers!
Per i 60 fps va bene quel processore.
GPU
Molti avrebbero da ridire perchè i miei consigli sono un po' eccessivi, puoi farti un'idea andando a cercare benchmark su YT in modo da avere sotto visione i numeri. Non ho la sfera di cristallo, il tuo portafoglio, o la testa dei dev, per cui non so quanto una GPU che adesso garantisce 60fps in 1440p sia valida anche tra 2-3 anni (cosa da tenere in conto dato l'investimento imho).
Che monitor usare? Bella domanda. Non sono un esperto, te ne linko qualcuno, quelli più noti ed usati in pratica, ma non sono davvero la persona più adatta. Magari ti sa aiutare r/Monitors
Insomma, la scelta è varia e dipende da quanto vuoi spendere. Ho cercato di fare una panoramica rapida e chiara (spero).
Se mi permetti io farei così:
Spero di essere stato d'aiuto,che i link siano quelli giusti e di non averti confuso. Aggiornami se ho scritto cazzate, o se decidi di cambiare qualcosa!
Consider getting this instead:
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-500GB-NAND-Internal/dp/B0784SLQM6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526343780&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=mx500+500gb
It's $5 more for a 30% increase in performance:
http://ssd.userbenchmark.com/Compare/WD-Blue-3D-250GB-vs-Crucial-MX500-250GB/3948vs3951
Also remember an SSD isn't going to do anything for games except decrease loading times. This is great for games like Fallout 4 that have constant loading screens but is basically worthless for online gaming where you cannot start the game before the player with the slowest hard drive loads in.
Actually the M.2 interface is a new connector found on new motherboards, it uses PCIe lanes but not the slot itself.
You can still use the 960 M.2, but you'd need to buy an adapter such as this one: https://www.amazon.ca/Rivo-Riser-Extender-Drvie-Adapter/dp/B01N09W21D/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526389547&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=pcie+to+m.2+adapter
I would recommend the Corsair MX500, the 500gb is currently $154 on amazon, which is a great price. https://www.amazon.ca/Crucial-MX500-500GB-NAND-Internal/dp/B0784SLQM6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526389685&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=mx500
The 250gb is even cheaper and under $100, but having headroom for game storage is always welcome!
The Crucial MX500 is $114.99 right now: https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-500GB-NAND-Internal/dp/B0784SLQM6/
Wow that's a big scratch disk. Is this for work? There's a sale on Crucial's new 500GB ssd: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0784SLQM6
You really should get the WD Green ssd 120GB. You'll want a larger size, they normally perform better and have higher longevity than the cheapies. A Crucial MX500 500GB https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0784SLQM6/?coliid=I361JOJYN71UWM&colid=5X7B77NHG0D0&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Here is a better desktop for even less. You can also use 50OFF699 for a $50 coupon. With the $200 you save, I'd reccommend buying an SSD like this one. Also maybe upgrade the ram to 16gb.
https://www.digitaltrends.com/gaming/how-to-upgrade-your-ps4-hard-drive/2/
It's a fairly easy process if you've ever fixed up anything in a computer before. Still fairly easy even if not. As for specifics; nothing really. Depends on how much you are looking to spend. I got a 500GB one myself, but my PS isn't my main console (Xbox gamer). You could always get an external 3.0 drive as well if you need extra storage and just keep the main games you play on the SSD.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0784SLQM6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This is what I bought.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0784SLQM6/ - Drive
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LY97QE8/ - Enclosure
No tools needed. Just pop the drive in the enclosure and plug it into the xbox.
The 970 is on sale rn for $160. https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-970-EVO-1TB-MZ-V7E1T0BW/dp/B07BN217QG
This is the wrong take, OP didn't ask for best bang for the buck PC, he asked for the best PC.
Cooler: Air is usually cooler and quieter than AIOs, in your machine you want the noctua nh-d15 though.
Your memory is not the best it can be for Ryzen (you want 3200c14 or 3600c16). Remember you have 4 DIMM slots, you can go 4x8 if you want, but I don't think they are cheaper than the 2x16 kits.
3600c16
or
3200c14
I personally have the latter one, Samsung b-die for good overclocking potential.
Storage: Don't put mechanical in this build for the love of god. Your "boot drive" is fine w/ the 860 evo, consider the m.2 version for slight (and I mean slight) performance gains and less wires:
also consider it's bigger brother the 970 Evo
For your "data drive", get a 2tb mx500, If you buy a mechanical drive for this build you will be banned :).
The video card situation is a weird one right now. nVidia keeps the good bins of their cards and sells the rest to AIBs. If you want the best 2080ti, you want the founders edition
But nVidia has probably the worst customer service, and 3rd party cards offer better cooling. It's a decision that's up to you. I personally went with a Founders Edition card for my build (2080 Super though).
Get an 80+ platinum power supply
This is a hot take, but consider a wireless mouse. The offerings today have no lag and gaming without cable drag is fantastic. Some suggestions:
Logitech G Pro Wireless
Logitech G703
You may want to check the price of the SSD because Amazon sells that at 169.99, unless it's the PLUS version, but not advertised as so? https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-970-EVO-1TB-MZ-V7E1T0BW/dp/B07BN217QG
You're still missing the m.2 drive. You should be rocking this as your primary drive, not the ssd that you have. The the m.2 drives are much faster... Not long ago, that drive was over $500US.
Edit: for fans, if you have the cash, I recommend magnetic bearings like these. They come in red, white and blue. I've gotten sick of replacing case fans...
I have a GT73VR, but also have a GL62M as a backup machine. It comes with an M.2 SSD, but also has an empty 2.5" HDD slot. I opened it up and put one in to transfer some stuff. So you have the option of replacing the NVMe SSD, or adding a 2.5 SSD. As far an NVMe, the 1TB 970 EVO is the most popular choice right now. It's crazy, I bought a 1TB 960 EVO for $499.99 in 2017 and its successor is way better and $200 cheaper.
Probably should just go with a 970 evo for 10 bucks more - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BN217QG/ref=twister_B07CY2RR4Z?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Yes, that would work.
Just for clarity, that drive is sata so read/write speeds are slower than this drive which is nvme.
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-970-EVO-250GB-MZ-V7E250BW/dp/B07BN217QG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542478676&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=m.2%2Bnvme&amp;th=1
I believe the WD is the better drive between the two. But I also think that it's a good idea to HODL until BF or Cyber Monday. Newegg's claim at 19% off is going to get better then. I think it was even up to 23% off over the weekend. Amazon as usual are misleading the original price at $589, it's been a little while since it was there. You've only got to look at the 1TB EVO 970 (compared to the 960) which isn't on promo and still over $130 cheaper!
For the SSD, it's a no-brainer. You're far better off buying your own. Even with the BLACKFRIDAY10 coupon, the slot 1 upgrade is $319, the slot 2 addition is $527; a 970 EVO 1TB is $228, and you are guaranteed the best consumer-grade SSD on the market right now instead of playing the lottery.
For RAM, though, it's not as simple.
16 GB x2 of PC4-21300 SODIMM is $254.
The 32 GB x1 and 16 GB x2 upgrades are both $223 with the coupon.
The cheapest, however, is the 16 GB x1 upgrade at $74.41 with the coupon, plus another 16 GB x1 at $125, for a total of around $200.
Of course, if you get the 8 GB and replace it, 8 GB is worth around $60 new. However, I've never thought of the used RAM market as very strong, so I think you'd be lucky to get $20-30 right now. Alternatively, you could keep it for later.
I'm not sure how this works with Perks instead of the current coupon because I'm lazy, but "get the cheapest and just buy your own upgrades" is not always the least expensive route.
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-970-EVO-1TB-MZ-V7E1T0BW/dp/B07BN217QG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1541984879&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=evo+970 ($227 right now.)
i want to buy the nvme for windows 10 and for some games
&#x200B;
so which is better?
&#x200B;
which is better from these 2? and which is faster?
https://www.amazon.com/XPG-SX8200-Gen3x4-3000MB-ASX8200PNP-1TT-C/dp/B07K1J3C23
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-970-EVO-1TB-MZ-V7E1T0BW/dp/B07BN217QG
Case: Rosewill, NZXT, and CoolerMaster are good places to start. Its mostly an aesthetic choice.
CPU: Intel i5 or i7. If you're budget is tight go i3.
GPU: This is the most important!! If your budget is tight I'd go with AMD R7 265X, R9 270, or Nvidia GTX 750 Ti. If not my pick would be the AMD R9 290 non-reference. It's cheaper than most yet is very powerful.
Motherboard- I use a Asrock Fatal1ty Killer. Most common brands are Asrock, MSI, Asus, and Gigabyte.
RAM- I use Kingston HyperX. Other good brands include Corsair, Crucial, G-Skill. Be sure to get 8GB or more RAM memory.
Power Supply Unit- The two highest reviewed brands are Seasonic and XFX (I use 1050watt XFX). Other good brands include Corsair, EVGA, CoolerMaster. You will want probably at least 700W PSU but I would recommend a !000W. It will give you headroom for any components you want to add.
Wifi- If you want/need this: TP-Link WDN-4800
SSD- This is for your operating system, doesn't help much with games. Samsung 840 Evo, Kingston HyperX, and AMD R7 (just released, only read reviews) are all good and affordable brands. You shouldn't need more than 120GB. If you have a M.2 socket on the Motherboard you choose, go with an M.2 SSD such as the Crucial M500, or if you can find it at an affordable price, the Samsung XP941.
HDD- Seagate Barracuda 3TB is a cheap, yet reliable choice.
Optical Drive- I've only used mine once, but you can find a DVD-RW on Amazon for like $12. (Internal not external)
Miscellaneous:
Keyboard: RAZR, Logitech are good brands
Mouse: too many to count, just browse "gaming mouse" on Amazon or Newegg.
Monitor: I prefer Asus. Go with an IPS monitor. They are gorgeous. !440p if you have the money, if not, 1080p.
Headphones- AudioTechnica or Sennheiser
non-reference are graphic cards with after-market coolers on them. I like XFX and Gigabyte.
Links to Parts:
CPU: http://www.amazon.com/Intel-i7-4790K-Processor-Cache-BX80646I74790K/dp/B00KPRWAX8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408495033&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=intel+i7
GPU: http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GDDR5-4GB-2xDVI-Graphics-GV-R929OC-4GD/dp/B00HS84DFU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408495068&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=R9+290
Case: http://www.amazon.com/NZXT-PHANTOM-Tower-White-PHAN-001WT/dp/B003WE9WQO/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408495102&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=nzxt+phantom
MOBO: http://www.amazon.com/ASRock-FATAL1TY--LGA1150-CrossFireX-Motherboard/dp/B00KG5T4C4/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408495154&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=Asrock+z97+fatal1ty+killer
RAM: http://www.amazon.com/Kingston-HyperX-FURY-2x8GB-1600MHz/dp/B00J8E8XT4/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408495201&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=Kingston+RAM
SSD: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Electronics-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-7TE120BW/dp/B00E3W15P0/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408495329&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=samsung+840+evo
HDD: http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Desktop-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST3000DM001/dp/B005T3GRLY/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408495357&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=Seagate+Barracuda
Good Luck ascending brother!!
Doesn't matter what you use, After Effects or Premiere, they both will have the same render time in media encoder.
If you want to speed up the process, you need 2 Drivers, 1 for footage, and 1 for rendering, and they need to be fast drives, SSD's, SSHD or 7200+ RPM with 64MB+ CACHE Drives.
If you use 1 Drive, for both, it writes and reads at the same time, which causes that slow down, also 16GB RAM is nice to have, rendering eats up a lot of RAM.
$130 CAD is like $90 USD. You can get a new 3TB Seagate drive for $90 USD or a brand new WD Green 3TB for $10 USD more.
So I was saying your price is not very good any you might want to consider adjusting it.
Alright, I settled on and ordered the following NAS config.
Should give me 5.5 usable TB for about 350 bucks. Since it's all for lab/testing I'm not worried about mirroring the drives.
Edit a DS209, not 109
Thanks for the suggestions everyone!
Your build looks great but that 3TB Hard Drive is very expensive for what is is, and you can get one for almost half the price. Also, with the release of the 1080 or even the 1070, it would be extremely wise to try and get your hands on one of those, considering the performance jump.
Appears to be an older model (ST3000DM001) and there is a newer model (ST3000DM008) with better Amazon reviews. But it's still a good deal on a 3TB 7200RPM HDD.
Edit: It may serve best as a secondary drive though, as /u/LasVegasWasFun pointed out that the Newegg reviews don't inspire confidence.
Buy 20 3TB hard drives. Plan on spending $3000.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | $199.99 @ Microcenter
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-Z87N-WIFI Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard | $128.99 @ Amazon
Memory | Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1333 Memory | $57.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung 840 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk | $92.99 @ NCIX US
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card | $249.99 @ Amazon
Case | BitFenix Prodigy Mini ITX Tower Case | $79.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Silverstone Strider Plus 500W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply | $74.99 @ Amazon
Optical Drive | Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer | $17.98 @ Outlet PC
Monitor | Acer G246HLAbd 60Hz 24.0" Monitor | $129.99 @ Newegg
Keyboard | Microsoft Keyboard 200 Wired Standard Keyboard | $9.99 @ Amazon
Mouse | Microsoft Optical Mouse 200 for Business Wired Optical Mouse | $7.12 @ Amazon
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. | $1050.01
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-08-10 19:32 EDT-0400 |
I didn't include an OS. I imagine your school might offer something for discount or even free.
This build has some room for upgrade:
I think this is a pretty good build. It's what I plan on getting myself in a month or so. It has the latest, most powerful Intel Core i5 processor that is the standard on /r/buildapc. It has the GTX 760 graphics card, which is nearly as powerful as the GTX 670 from the previous generation, only it's $100 cheaper. It has built-in Wifi and Bluetooth. It has a fully-modular, 140mm PSU which should fit really well in this case. The BitFenix Prodigy case is a gorgeous case and is available in many colors. I think the Samsung 840 SSD is supposed to be pretty good, and it has great reviews on NewEgg. This build should also be pretty compatible for use as a Hackintosh once Mac OS X 10.9 Mavericks is released in a month or two in case you ever want to mess with that.
Also if you are going to be spending $220 on an HDD get this. It's a good Build though.
To address your main concerns;
Everything else looks perfectly fine
I know it's not gaming, but HERE'S a 250 MB hard drive from 1979, and HERE'S a 3 TB hard drive from today, for the princely sum of $89.30.
It would take 12.5 thousand of the earlier drives to equal capacity of the newer drive.
Then again, sizing hasn't changed all that much.
> WDEARLY20
This is the one that I got
They were $67 a piece when I picked them up
>> Seagate Barracuda 7200.14 43.1%
>
> This is a well known lemon.
Fuck. I just swapped out my desktop HD for one of these a month ago. ST3000DM001
The amazon review score didn't jump out as blatantly terrible...
I love this build. I would swap the SSD for a 3TB barracuda.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005T3GRLY
256gig will fill quickly. Or get both! I own a 2500k and it kicks butt on my i7 950. With mobos research the chipset and get the latest. Right now you want a socket 1155 with a Z77 chipset and a 1155 CPU to match. Here is an example of just such a mobo.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007R21JWC/ref=mp_s_a_9?pi=57x75&amp;qid=1344974057&amp;sr=1-9
Hey just a quick question:
This is my potential build (http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/Aberdinho/saved/KFfFf7)
And this is the SSD im looking at on Amazon at a cheaper price than PCPP shows:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Samsung-120GB-Basic-Solid-State/dp/B00E3W15P0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1404909578&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=samsung+840+evo+120gb
I think it's the same product but not sure why PcPartPicker isn't finding it on there. But also, does everything i need to install it come with it or do i need to buy wires separately since this is a basic one?
I would recommend this PSU over the OCZ you have selected, it's $84.99 plus 10% off with promo code AFSUMRLNG4. As a bonus it's SeaSonic and 80+ Gold. I prefer the Samsung 840 EVO, good quality and you can upgrade to the 250GB for a little more (recommended if you want this build to last several years). I would also recommend upgrading the RAM to DDR3-1600 or 1866 for better performance, something like this for $3 more.
Edit: Typo
I'd swap out that SSD for a Samsung 840 EVO or a Crucial M500. Faster, lower rate of failiure, better warranty.
Why the cpu cooler, he can't overclock.
Evo 120 is $85
GTX 770 for for $327
As well as using pricespy NZ, you could have a look on amazon international. I got my SSD, RAM and CPU cooler from them and they're heaps cheaper than NZ prices. e.g. Samsung 840 EVO 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk for $80 US which is ~$90NZ.
If you're looking for a 120GB SSD, I recommend the Samsung Evo 840
Yes, you want to keep 15-20% of your ssd's space empty. Once you format a 64gb ssd and deduct 20% you only have 48gb or so to play with. Once you have your OS, Programs, swap file, etc.. its gonna be gone fast. A modern 120gb samsung evo is only $80
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Electronics-EVO-Series-2-5-Inch-MZ-7TE120BW/dp/B00E3W15P0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1398351570&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=840+evo+120gb
I've used quite a few SSDs and I would steer you towards paying an extra 10 quid (not British I hope I am using the proper slang up in this John) to get a Samsung 840 Evo 120gb
The main reasons are not only that the reviews show that it is one of the faster SSDs available in the price range, but it has Samsung Magician, which lets you dedicate some of your system memory/RAM for use with the SSD for faster read/write, and here are some pretty benchmark numbers showing how well Magician works in synthetic tests, although these are synthetic, and RAPID mode might not give you as large an advantage in real-life scenarios (unless you frequently use the same programs so that RAPID mode throws those files into your RAM, then the gains will be rather large!)
The V300 should be awesome should you choose to get it but you might want to spend some time drooling at charts before you make the purchase, and I admit that I am a little biased towards Samsung (I own 2x 840 Pro and 1x 840 Evo for OS/Games and a few Crucial SSDs that I relegate to less-important things like music/etc)
There's a 60 dollar ssd that comes with far cry right now if you're looking into buying it :)
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-120GB-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-7TE120BW/dp/B00E3W15P0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417048996&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=Samsung+840+evo
The SSD you linked is an alright ssd at too high of a price. [Here's a better SSD] (http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-120GB-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-7TE120BW/dp/B00E3W15P0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417048996&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=Samsung+840+evo) for $10 less. You should also look at r/buildapcsales for some other Black Friday deals that will no doubt turn up.
Fallout:NV won't have a problem running on this card, but CIV:BE might be slow because you have a pretty weak processor. There isn't a quick "$10 upgrade solve all your problems" solution however, so if this is your budget and you can't wait, then get this build
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-120GB-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-7TE120BW/dp/B00E3W15P0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417048996&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=Samsung%20840%20evo Only up to 100 dollars from what I found
Samsung 840 EVO 120GB 2.5-Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-7TE120BW) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E3W15P0/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_f85Dub1SEXM19
For the motherboard, Gigabyte has had the lowest annual failure rate for a couple of years now (although ASUS, ASRock, and MSI are also great brands to choose)
RAM is more or less the same regardless of brand as all of the chips are made by like two OEMS
Regarding the SSD, the Crucial MX100 is great but you should also consider spending $20 more for the faster 840 EVO (http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-120GB-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-7TE120BW/dp/B00E3W15P0) or buying the 256gb variant of either if you think you need the extra space
The Gigabyte 970 is more expensive but has the best custom cooler so if you decide to overclock it later you will likely be able to push it harder than other brands
The Seasonic PSU in this build might only be bronze rated but it is more reliable than many gold rated PSUs (as per http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-1804779/power-supply-unit-tier-list.html)
I have not used the Enthoo Pro myself but you don't have to look far to see the great reviews for it (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cBhmn21ylkc)
IMHO that case is overpriced for what you're getting
drop down to a good $100 case (fractal design r4?) and you can up the video card to a R9 280X for a decent performance boost
also 64gb is pretty meager for an SSD, even if it's just for the OS you're going to end up wanting to install at least a few programs onto it. a 120gb samsung 840 EVO is $99
consider dropping to microATX if you don't think multiple video cards are in your future. will save you some money and space
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-120GB-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-7TE120BW/dp/B00E3W15P0/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1420486946&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=ssd
Samsung 840 Evo 80$
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E3W15P0/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It was this badboy. The laptop is a Fujitsu Lifebook PH520. I've never had issues with hard drive before either which is why it was so puzzling.
The highest performance option you can get with your budget is the MSI GT70 Dominator Pro-890
It has an i7-4800MQ, 12GB RAM, 1TB HDD, Nvidia GTX 880M, and a 17.3" 1920x1080 display.
If you are doing video editing, I would greatly suggest that you install your own Samsung 840 Evo at the very least.
Both of those things will keep you within budget and provide you with the most powerful system.
It also supports up to 3 additional displays with a DisplayPort, HDMI, and VGA connections.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E3W15P0?cache=8dffa47ee6b7f561b53aad6bc667a58a&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;qid=1413856661&amp;sr=8-1
$80
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00ALYOTTI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0083R9QFC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A1IE2T48Y49NKD
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00FFCB0BG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A1AUCPBF2P18HS
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004CRSM4I/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A1KKBQ3ZKRKG5E
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00L8JZOSU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A2T3HY9SQOQMWW
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00AZK1450/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A1F8YGP86NG3IP
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NPZSJCS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A1KTEMJJGIRMKV
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00E3W15P0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A3Q93IXKL8QM8W
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00D38U4GQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_9?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00K80MMJ4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_10?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE
Here are the parts I found that could deliver to Ireland via amazon.uk. Sadly some of the parts they didn't have(the windforce 980) so I just picked what they had in stock. Others they were not allowed to ship to ireland for whatever reason.....Not sure on the budget for whatever reason this in in pounds.
Looks pretty good, but, personally, I would rather go with the Samsung 120gb evo, and right now they have a promotion going on where you get far cry 4 free with it (they don't list it on the page, but it does, also before you buy it, just confirm with amazon via chat)
Is it that much more of a chore with a non-samsung drive? Probably just more tedious/prone to error cloning it yourself? I'll look into something like [this Evo] (http://amzn.com/B00E3W15P0) in the next couple weeks then.
If you're doing video editing, you'll definitely benefit from maxing out your RAM.
Regarding the SSD, you can either pay a lot of money for a large one, or you can buy a smaller one and offload your music and other video files onto an external HD. You'll have to determine how much storage space you need.
This is a good one: http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX100-adapter-Internal-CT256MX100SSD1/dp/B00KFAGCWK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408047235&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=ssd
Not all SSD's are created equal. Some don't last as long as others. You'll have to research them to see what brands people trust.
Also, be sure to enable TRIM with this utility: http://www.cindori.org/software/trimenabler/
How soon do you plan on building this? If you can wait a couple months the NVIDIA GTX 880 will be out soon, and it's supposed to be around the price of the 770 when it came out (about $400, US). This is probably the worst time of the year to build a computer. Devil's Canyon and Z97 did just come out, but Intel is still do for X99 and Haswell-E, NVIDIA is releasing Maxwell, and AMD probably has some stuff being announced soon.
Otherwise it looks good, the only things I would change would be the power supply (for an EVGA SuperNOVA), the motherboard (to something from ASUS), I would maybe get a cheaper SSD as the 850 Pro series don't really offer much more for the premium. An 840 EVO or a Crucial MX100 of the same price would be the optimal as far as price/performance. I would also recommend against getting a 7.1 headset, I've tried them and they're terrible, as an alternative I'd get a cheap pair of studio headphones like the Audio-Technica ATH-M50 and a desktop microphone.
Edit 1: I would recommend getting a case with better airflow as well. Something like the Phanteks Enthoo Pro is a good value case with much better airflow, and has a nice aesthetic.
All right then, you do what I did, my budget was almost identical to yours, Link to my build post please note that i'm in the uk and parts are more expensive
Go for an AMD build similar to mine with your GPU, Because your GPU kicks my GPU's ass, PRO tip Buy your parts over the course of a month,prices rise and fall and you wanna buy when cheap, set up price alerts on pcpartpicker, when a certain product goes below a certain price it will e-mail you, Check Amazon marketplace. It might say for example: 18 new from £75.44 like Here, almost every time, you will find the product cheaper than what pcpartpicker is telling you. Also if you are getting an ssd, get the one I linked, I own the same one and its very cheap and very good, if not maybe go for samsung 840 evo for a little more cost.
Slightly more riskier tip: check out ebay. But only from reputable sellers, make sure to take into account the delivery costs, that can be a mistake that takes you over budget when buying parts and also paying more than you thought.
Last but not least, check reviews for every single product you buy, every single one...and from multiple sources. It's your money, be wise about it, a fool and his money are soon parted.
Good luck ;)
Or spend $5 more and get a 256gb Crucial MX100 that is faster and has 16gb more in space.
http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX100-adapter-Internal-CT256MX100SSD1/dp/B00KFAGCWK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1411258233&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=mx100+256gb
Spend the extra few bucks
IMO
Crucial Mx100 for $110 http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KFAGCWK/?tag=pcpapi-20
Samsung 840 Evo is a bit faster but runs for $130 http://www.ncixus.com/products/?usaffiliateid=1000031504&amp;sku=87761&amp;vpn=MZ-7TE250BW&amp;manufacture=Samsung%20Memory%20%26%20Storage&amp;promoid=1286
If you're looking at SSDs on Amazon.co.uk, they're having specials all week. This one was available earlier when I checked. It seems to have a waitlist now, but 256 will give you more breathing room.
An SSD will definitely make everything feel much snappier, but I would really suggest a larger one if you want to work on files from the SSD.
http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX100-adapter-Internal-CT256MX100SSD1/dp/B00KFAGCWK/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1416955325&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=MX100+ssd
This work?
The most cost-effective option would be to buy and install an SSD yourself (the 256GB Crucial MX100 is routinely around $110). But anyways, here's what I suggest doing:
In the mSATA SSD Drive (slot 1) section, select "128GB Crucial M550 M.2 mSATA SSD - Preconfigured as an OS Drive ( Operating System – Drive C: )" for $120. They'll install the OS onto it, 128GB is enough for your OS, programs and a handful of games (perhaps a very large handful, if you're not into modern AAA titles), and you won't have to do any configuration beyond turning the computer on.
As far as saving money goes, there isn't much that you can give up on that particular model. You could maybe get the OS cheaper elsewhere, especially if you're a student, and you could buy and install an SSD yourself (which is much easier than it sounds, as long as you know how to use a screwdriver), but other than that the only real way to reduce the price would be stepping down to a weaker GPU.
If you have the original hard drive from 2011, it's possible that it's starting to wear out and slow down, even if Onyx says it's healthy. One of the best upgrades you can do for any computer is replacing your hard drive with a solid state drive, as they are much faster, and your hard drive is probably the bottleneck for everything your computer does.
If you can use a screwdriver and you're gentle, you can replace a macbook hard drive, it's incredibly easy in that model.
Price-wise, you can get 250GB for just over $100 ($130 or $110 being popular options) or 512GB for about $200 ($199 or $239). For your average consumer, the crucial is fine.
Here are some instructions on replacing it.
Good luck. Since you reinstalled OS X, I doubt there's much wrong on the software side. This upgrade really will give you a nice speed bump.
That's strange, because it has 5-star almost-flawless reviews at Newegg. In fact, now that I look at it, Amazon's reviews are overwhelmingly 5-star as well! And it comes with a 3 year warranty regardless.
Source on reviews
Get this 256GB SSD
You are looking for a NUC or compact HTCP mini PC.
Total: £349
This will do all your tasks without much trouble and got 0 fans so it will be almost inaudible. If you need more storage I recommend to get an external USB HDD.
Hope you like it and If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.
Not weird at all--I'll provide Amazon links for your convenience!
The ASUS Zenbook UX305 has an MSRP of $700, but the potential issue is that it's not an i5. The Core M in this is about as powerful as an i3, but that should be sufficient for many uses in combination with the 256 GB SSD and the 8 GB of RAM. [Also, it's currently selling for $850 on Amazon. A $150 markup? Eff that--for that price, get the faster computer listed below]
The Zenbook UX303 has an updated version with a 5th-gen i5 for $850. The claimed battery life is 8 hours, and it'll be fast, thin, and portable. It should be a good option for you, unless you're into hardcore gaming or something. But a $700 Yoga probably wouldn't be any better at that...
If you want to try Lenovo again, the Ideapad Flex 14 is a good option at $800. It bends 270 degrees, rather than 360, but it comes with an i5, 8 GB of RAM, an SSD, and an HD screen. This should be a good option, and Lenovo generally scores well for reliability--not sure what happened on your Yoga.
Another 360-degree hinge option is the ASUS Transformer Book Flip. For $750, you get the Yoga's flexibility, as well as a 5th-gen i5, 8 GB of RAM, a 1 TB hard drive, and a 1080p screen. (Note that the i7 option has a lower-res screen, however). I have an ASUS Flip (a cheaper i3 version), and I can tell you from experience that it's pretty well-built, with aluminum surfaces except the plastic on the bottom panel, and it has a sturdy hinge. The trackpad is just OK, and the laptop picks up fingerprints like nobody's business--but everything else on this machine is nice. I can recommend it with confidence!
If you're looking to spend even less, the Toshiba Satellite L55-B5276 is going for around $560 on Amazon, and it comes with a 4th-gen i5 (the Broadwell processors are just coming out, so there's not a ton of variety). The Satellite also has 8 GB of RAM and a 1 TB hard drive, and the screen is the standard resolution of 1366 x 768--nothing special, but good enough. With the extra credit you have, you can buy a 256 GB SSD like this Crucial MX100, clone the old hard drive to your new SSD and install it yourself, and this will improve both responsiveness and battery life. That's probably the best deal you can get for the money, but I understand not wanting to mess around with the cloning process.
Good luck to you!
The other one has a 768p screen instead of a 1080p.
SSDs are solid state drives. They use flash memory instead of a spinning disk, and are massive performance boosters. They'll make your laptop feel incredible. They cost about $0.30-$0.40 per gigabyte right now. A 256GB runs about $100, when on sale.
Here's an example of a nice one: http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX100-2-5-Inch-Internal-CT256MX100SSD1/dp/B00KFAGCWK/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
You have to open the hard drive bay and remove the old hard drive and install the new one. You will then need to use a desktop (or prepare beforehand) an OS boot drive. You will then have to download this, and then install Windows 8.1 64-bit (NOT PRO) on a USB. Then boot to the USB and reinstall Windows.
It's hard to get a 256GB SSD for under $100, but arguably, 2 of the best SSDs at the moment are just above that price mark. The Crucial MX100 is $105, and the slightly higher priced but slightly better Samsung 850 Evo is $115.
Hello, I installed a 256 GB Crucial SSD and 8GB of RAM into my 2011 MacBook Pro 15" and the computer flies after that. Huge improvement. Almost all the programs open immediately, you can have a bunch of anything you want open (within reason). Here are the exact items I bought: RAM and SSD.
Crucial has since updated the SSDs, here is a newer model.
I don't understand how you are on the fence about a SSD over a HDD (unless it it capacity/cost issue). Just get it. It seems like you need every possible excuse to justify your purchase.
http://amzn.com/B00KFAGCWK
For the most part SSDs are ready to replace hard drives. The speed increase from switching to flash memory from spinning rust is worth the capacity tradeoff. Unless you're one of a few groups that really need 1TB of space in your laptop, SSDs are cheap enough to be used instead.
I got a Crucial 256GB SSD for my MacBook to replace the spinning drive in it last year and it's performed very nicely for a very reasonable cost. They have a 512 GB as well that's a bit faster, and not too much more.
Also, as a PSA: These SSDs don't need TRIM enabled. The controller on the SSD handles the garbage collection just fine on its own. A lot of SSDs now handle it fine as well. Feel free to turn it on as it won't hurt anything or degrade performance, but on these SSDs it doesn't help either. Plus it saves you the pain of fighting with 3rd party TRIM support on Yosemite and whatever's next.
SanDisk.
Bought it 3 days ago on a special deal, but it's still on discount.
SanDisk Ultra II SSD 960GB Sata III 2,5 Zoll Interne SSD, bis zu 550 MB/Sek https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00M8ABHVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6CV4xbZMN5PME
if you can push it:
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-2-5-Inch-Height-SDSSDHII-960G-G25/dp/B00M8ABHVQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468337372&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=sandisk+ultra+II
or
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX300-750GB-Internal-Solid/dp/B01DUNLMUU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468315341&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=mx300
both limited time deals, both pretty darn good deals
If you are just looking to play OverWatch this is overkill, but if you're looking to play other games and be prepared for the future you will be set for a while.
You can save on the SSD with this.
I would recommend starting with just 8GB of that RAM, you can always get more later if you want.
If you're only interested in playing OverWatch you can go with the i5-6500k.
Also, what you know that monitor will support up to 144 fps right?
I don't like any of the suggestions here, buy this NAS and 2 of these drives and put them in RAID1 so you are protected against failure (Just make sure to do a backup, RAID is not a backup)
If you don't mind spending a little bit more, these drives are better quality
When you get more money and want to upgrade, you can buy a 4+ bay NAS and reuse those drives and add more or do whatever you want with them
The Zyxel NAS is cheap and good, with no stupid features that are worthless anyway
I've been using this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-SuperSpeed-Lay-Flat-Docking-ASM1053E/dp/B00APP6694
$25 and swappable, no screws or anything else. Just make sure you grab a HDD with 7200 rpm. I got this one for $100
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005T3GRLY/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1
RAIDZ2 made up of
RAIDZ1 local backup made up of
mirror offsite backup (most important datasets) made up of
mirror offsite backup (most important datasets) made up of
.
$ sudo zpool list
NAME SIZE ALLOC FREE EXPANDSZ FRAG CAP DEDUP HEALTH ALTROOT
tank 29T 11.8T 17.2T - 7% 40% 1.00x ONLINE -
Keep in mind there is a 5.03% discrepancy between the reported size (e.g.
sudo zfs list) and the actual size (du -b) based on the computations in this google sheet. For instance, my 800GiB file appears as 760GiB according to this zpool. This is not the case on my raidz1 backup and everything is represented accurately. It's just a matter of the vdev/blocksize/recordsize configuration chosen.You'll want to setup your pools using these options:
sudo zpool create tank -o ashift=12 raidz2 <disks>...
and your datasets with these options:
sudo zfs set compression=lz4 tank
sudo zfs set recordsize=1M tank
sudo zfs set atime=off tank
sudo zfs set xattr=sa tank
So, to answer your question,
24 10^12 bytes / (1024^4 bytes / TiB) (31/32 zfs overhead) = 21.1457 TiB
If I do
sudo zfs list -pI getUsed | Available | Total
---|---|----
|9,208,112,973,696 | 12,752,323,246,208 | 21,960,436,219,904 |
(but this is the 5.3% affected value).
So to go in reverse, 21,960,436,219,904 1.053 32/31 = 23,861,934,092,934 bytes, which is pretty damn close to the expected 24 * 10^12 advertised.
Let's think here.. buy a (traditional platter style) HDD from some random person with no safety guaranteed what-so-ever for $130 USD
All the while Amazon.CA (yes that's Canada's Amazon) Is selling it brand new for 127.99 CDN which equals 114 USD.
Someone already politly informed you of your incorrect pricing, and hopefully this will ward off the rest of your potential buyers until a change is made. Nice try though kiddo
(In case you think I'm full of sh**, check the link for yourself, which is what you should have done prior to even considering posting here)
http://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-Barracuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST3000DM001/dp/B005T3GRLY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1394832415&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=seagate+3tb
Check this out. 1 TB is $55, 2 TB is $85, and 3 TB is $107.
Well there's a 3TB Seagate Barracuda 'blue?' hdd on Amazon for 107usd
H55 isn't worth the price. If that's your budget, get the hyper 212 evo. Otherwise, shell out for at least the H80 (although high-end air will outperform or tie pretty much all CLCs up until the H100i).
I'm not personally a fan of Toshiba HDDs, and at that size/price I'd be looking for seagate sales (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T3GRLY/ for instance). This is just opinion though.
Storage is cheap. Only limit is the capabilities of the crew.
Girlsplaywow is a jerk. Ok, not really. You're a very nice person.
I'm into this or this.
Recently purchased all the parts for the "End-All" with some modifications of my own, to build a PC for the first time.
I got a 500GB SSD to run my OS and my most HD intensive games on, and intended to use my current 1TB HD to be the main media storage/other games. However, even as all the parts are in shipment, I find that I've been hearing weird noises coming from my HDD that just make me paranoid, as it is getting on 5+ years with it. I figure I should probably get a new one and install it when I assemble the new computer this weekend.
My budget is <$100. I want size more than performance, so I don't need another SSD. But then when I look at HD vs Hybrid HD, I am afraid I am not very well read on the tradeoffs.
As an example, compare:
Seagate 1TB SSHD
vs
Seagate 3TB HDD
They are both about the same price, yet one has 50% more space. What performance do I really pull out of a hybrid vs a regular?
What are your thoughts on Seagate? I found a 3TB bare drive for $100, which is an incredible value in GB per dollar, though I can't speak on behalf of it's reliability or performance. Here's a link if that helps.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T3GRLY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_qOfcub0Y08MF0
http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Desktop-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST3000DM001/dp/B005T3GRLY/
3tb seagate for $6 more each, double the storage.
I would go with the synology though, they are awesome, powerful devices. Unless you really want to be able to run a bunch of other stuff on the box other then just storage and the synology supported apps.
https://www.synology.com/en-us/dsm/app_packages
I'm looking to get a 3TB in the near future. Just want to find one under $100 that doesn't have 3 stars. I was looking into this one but it seems like it's "under review" right now. Kind of glad I held off on that. I'll probably dish out the extra $10-20 and get the WD.
How do these compare to the Seagate ST3000DM001, which sell for $100 each (so you wouldn't have to buy 4)?
I have no CDI available for this Hard Drive since it's still factory sealed in the anti-static bag.
Considering craigslisting it because shipping costs, but lmk if interested.
This was a simple cluster, not really designed for running a lot of VMs. We run 3 AD servers, a File Server, and one server for a special piece of software. That's a total of only 5 Windows 2008 R2 VMs, but you can see that it can handle much more.
>SAN $230: http://www.ebay.com/itm/RACKABLE-2U-SERVER-S5000PSL-2-x-INTEL-QUAD-CORE-L5420-2-5GHz-16GB-1TB-SATA-/121402377113?pt=COMP_EN_Servers&amp;hash=item1c44254399
x2 VM Server $1200: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-PowerEdge-C1100-CS24-TY-1U-2x-XEON-QC-L5520-2-26GHz-4xTRAYS-72GB-DDR3-/261355969100?pt=COMP_EN_Servers&amp;hash=item3cda079a4c
SSD $75: http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX100-adapter-Internal-CT128MX100SSD1/dp/B00KFAGD88/
x2 Boot Drives $206: http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Desktop-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST3000DM001/dp/B005T3GRLY/
x2 Storage Drives $280: http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Desktop-ST4000DM000-3-5-Inch-Internal/dp/B00B99JU4S/
x3 Batteries $300: http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1000AVRLCD-Intelligent-1000VA-Mini-Tower/dp/B000QZ3UG0/
Shelf $31: http://www.amazon.com/Odyssey-ARS2-Space-Shelf-Accessory/dp/B0002DV0GI/
Server Rack $281: http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-SR4POST25-Cabinet-Capacity/dp/B004OB8T72/
Microsoft Server 2008 R2 $695: http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Server-Standard-Packaging/dp/B00H09CF70/
x2 Microsoft Server CALs $298: http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Server-2012-OEM/dp/B0093CBTOM/
Switch $66: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DELL-POWERCONNECT-2716-USED-/251627465136?pt=US_Network_Switches&amp;hash=item3a962a69b0
Firewall $90: http://www.amazon.com/EdgeRouter-ERLite-3-512MB-Ethernet-Router/dp/B00CPRVF5K/
Rack Screws $27: http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-SRCAGENUTS-Enclosure-Hardware/dp/B001DW8J5C/
Drive Converter $15: http://www.amazon.com/Icy-Dock-EZConvert-2-5-Inch-Converter/dp/B002Z2QDNE/
That is the full setup from the rack down to the software licenses that runs 144GB RAM and 4TB usable drive space on ZFS with a 128GB SSD Read cache. It falls short of $4k. We use XenServer and OpenIndiana.
That's only two VM servers, but every VM the client needs can easily run on one in case of a failure. Just thought I would share this setup to show that it is feasible to price a VM cluster out at under 6k. This is not the cheapest build I've done, but definitely near it and much smaller than I would recommend for most people. It is actually smaller than I recommended for this client, but it is what it is.
If you have Prime, this is $102 on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Desktop-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST3000DM001/dp/B005T3GRLY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1415146775&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Seagate+Barracuda+7200.14+ST3000DM001+3TB+7200+RPM+64MB+Cache+SATA+6.0Gb%2Fs+3.5%22+Internal+Hard+Drive+Bare+Drive
You say it's for travel? are you traveling with desktop? either way here's a really good deal.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T3GRLY/?tag=pcpapi-20
Is there a work-around? I subscribed to all the newsletters, it didn't work.
edit, I found one: You can chat with a newegg rep, tell them that your friend used the code and got 10% off the drive or whatever, and refer them to the amazon listing here. Explain to them that you have an amazon prime acount (I actually do), and that the better shipping from amazon for the same price gives you an incentive to buy the drive from a different retailer. Then explain that you would be willing to buy the drive from newegg if he could give you a 10% off coupon or a $15 gift card. In my case, the guy was willing to issue me a card after I ordered the hd for the original $150. As I was already looking to buy stuff from newegg in the near future, this was a perfect move for me.
Thank you for this contest, you have a generous boss and are super generous yourself.
I really need this [hard drive] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005T3GRLY?colid=3H4BZNET2W15O&amp;coliid=I2RX9V0EGNQ9E2&amp;psc=1&amp;ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl) to replace the one that died on my desktop computer. I miss having an actual desktop to work with.
I would really love [this blanket] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014TTDCRU?colid=3H4BZNET2W15O&amp;coliid=I2Z14OKOF997I6&amp;psc=1&amp;ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl)... I'm tired of "throws" they just aren't doing it for me any more... I want something that covers me from feet to neck when I'm sitting on the couch. It's cold!
[Birthday cards!] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006J7DH0I/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=3H4BZNET2W15O&amp;coliid=I1IM44XIM9JI2J) I want to start sending them out because I know how much it means to me when people remember my birthday.
Okay, I love me some [Cholula] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FDGEIRC?colid=APY6TDVDV6K7&amp;coliid=IN436X04JSH73&amp;ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl) and I wanna bring it everywhere I go.
Fish oil is good for you and I've checked out both of [these] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OV5M7G?colid=3APJQJG63AMCR&amp;coliid=ILZ4GSPTGN2P6&amp;ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl) [brands] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FEG9NXK?colid=3APJQJG63AMCR&amp;coliid=I3H00MXNPRC987&amp;ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl) and I don't know which is best, so I put them both, I hope that's okay!
Thank you again! :-D
Why would the game size concern you? Do you have a very small hard drive made ten years ago? If so, buy a larger one for almost no money whatsoever. You've got about 520 days until release. If you save 25 cents a day, you'll be able to buy this 3TB disk drive before the game is actually released. Then you'll be able to fit 100 copies of that 30GB game on your PC.
If it's a network issue, then set it to download and come back when it's done. Though I imagine they'll have a physical disk option as well, or the game will auto-update like so many new ones do now. Either way, it's a wash when some patience is applied.
Personally, I hope the game is even huger than you are imagining.
But all this worry in here! Life is stressful enough. Be concerned about stuff when it actually happens!
At least get a 3TB spinning disk if you're going non-SSD. I built a HP Microserver full of those drives and they're working great.
I have a similar hybrid drive in my 2007 Macbook Pro, and I can't suggest it as an SSD replacement. It has really unreliable performance charateristics, and you can't RAID it for redundancies.
You're much better off getting one or more larger spinning disks then adding an SSD cache using Intel's SSD cache technology with a real SSD down the road.
If you're looking at this sale at it's price/memory value, the same make of drive in 3TB is better even without a sale: Amazon: Seagate Barracude 3TB: $89.99
Still a good sale regardless, if you just want 1 TB
I've been running these in my nas for almost 2 years now with no problems. What's wrong with seagate? I bought my drives without doing a ton of research so im to blame. just curious.
I was wrong, it's a 3tb one. I might try to return it, I bought it a while ago and I don't know about Amazon's policies with that. Thanks for suggesting it though.
Seagate Barracuda.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005T3GRLY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005T3GRLY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
i ended up ordering that one. i thank the two of you for responses and discussion
PSU
Things it's powering:
SSD
Video Card
CPU
[RAM](http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?
Item=N82E16820231314)
MoBo
Hard Drive I just added:
HD
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005T3GRLY/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1450803193&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=3.5+hard+drive&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=511ErNhgmvL&amp;ref=plSrch&amp;th=0
I use 2 x 3TB Seagate barracuda in RAID1
obviously you can setup with smaller drives but they must be of equal size.
I wanted a new machine, under 2k$ to basically be my onset DIT and field editing machine.
Set up is as such:
I have my Panasonic BT-LH1700WP as my field monitor and my HP Dreamcolor as my grading monitor so they were left from the maths.
It was after they spiked and started to drop again; there was a deal on Amazon a couple of days before Black Friday where they fell to $90 and I got mine then too. Oddly they've never been that low before or since.
Get Windows 8. It's way faster and the learning curve is not too bad at all.
Intel 4690 i5 + Asus H97 if you're not gonna overclock.
Intel 4690k i5 + Asus z97-A if you're gonna overclock.
Of course, the mobo's are entirely up to you, depending on what features you want, but those are pretty popular ones.
As for the HDD, I'd really recommend taking advantage of the low SSD prices and getting a cheap 120 GB Samsung 840 EVO and pairing that with the existing hard drive you have. Installing Windows 8 on this SSD should give you a noticeable performance boost. Then again, the SSD is up to you.
Are there better SSDs than this at a lower price point? The linked SSD occasionally drops to $79...is that about as good as it gets for the performance?
I would go with the Samsung drives. I have never had a trouble with them.
120GB: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Electronics-EVO-Series-2-5-Inch-MZ-7TE120BW/dp/B00E3W15P0/
250GB: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Electronics-EVO-Series-2-5-Inch-MZ-7TE250BW/dp/B00E3W1726/
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Electronics-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-7TE120BW/dp/B00E3W15P0/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1409962025&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=Samsung+840+Evo
I found this, though it doesn't come with cables. I have never used a SSD before will i need special cables and mounts for this? And if so which ones?
Thank you
Good catch, forgot to check your case. You're right it won't fit.
http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-motherboard-h87me
Something like that instead should be fine.
EDIT:
For an SSD look at the Samsung EVO 120GB its much better than the Kingston or Crucial M500.
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Electronics-EVO-Series-2-5-Inch-MZ-7TE120BW/dp/B00E3W15P0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1395903260&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=samsung+evo+120gb
I don't know what kind of budget you are on, but I would say spend 30 more and get this 120gb from Samsung. I have it and it works like a charm, comes with software that is very easy to use and helps keep it running at maximum potential. But this is just my completely unprofessional opinion. It just seems like a hassle to have to think about what you can put on there, with a 120gb you can't put everything but you can put most of your most used programs on there and not have to worry about it. I put all my drivers on there, software for my mouse, keyboard, speakers, and Bluetooth dongle, chrome, team speak, iTunes, and my trend micro antivirus and still have about 50gbs free. I love being able to restart my computer and hop back onto Reddit and team speak before I can take my next breath haha.
Given that [the GTX 760 can hold its own at 1440p], and $120 is a lot to spend on a case, at this budget, this is my favorite alternate configuration:
Alternate build, with SSD
| part | link | | price |
|:-|:-|:-|:-|
|cpu|Intel Core i5-4570 Haswell 3.2GHz LGA 1150 84W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics BX80646I54570|newegg|$199.99|
|video card|PNY VCGGTX7602XPB GeForce GTX 760 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 SLI Support Video Card|newegg|$249.99|
|ram|G.SKILL NS Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-1600C11D-8GNS|newegg|$74.99|
|motherboard|MSI H81M-P33 LGA 1150 Intel H81 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard|newegg|$48.99|
|power supply|EVGA 100-W1-500-KR 500W ATX12V / EPS12V 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC 3 Year Warranty Power Supply Intel 4th Gen CPU Ready|newegg|$49.99|
|case|APEVIA X-Sniper X-SNIPER2-BL Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case w/ Side Window-Blue|newegg|$49.99|
|ssd|Samsung Electronics 840 EVO-Series 120GB 2.5-Inch SATA III Single Unit Version Internal Solid State Drive MZ-7TE120BW|amazon|$89.99|
|hard drive|Western Digital WD10EZEX 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive, Blue - OEM|newegg|$59.99|
|disc drive|Lite-On Super AllWrite 24X SATA DVD+/-RW Dual Layer Drive - Bulk - IHAS124-04 (Black)|amazon|$20.60|
|operating system|Windows 8.1 System Builder OEM DVD 64-Bit|amazon|$99.28|
|wifi|TP-LINK TL-WN881ND Wireless N300 PCI Express Adapter, 300Mbps, w/WPS Button, IEEE 802.1b/g/n, 64/128 bit WEP, WPA/WPA2|newegg|$18.99|
|||||
| |See current build price with shipping and tax| total | $962.79|
Learn more and customize this build on KittenBoxes.com.
The one im looking at is on sale for 80$ should I get it? http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Electronics-EVO-Series-2-5-Inch-MZ-7TE120BW/dp/B00E3W15P0/ref=pd_cp_pc_0
I have ideapad y410p. I've been thinking of replacing my 1 TB HD to an SDD as main os then use 1 TB as storage. The hard drive will replace the ultrabay dvd drive with an ultrabay HD caddy.
Should I get a 120gb PNY or 120gb Samsung EVO as my first ssd?
Samsung EVO is 90 dollars while PNY is around 65 dollars (don't wanna deal with MIR). I heard mixed performance on both ssd's, now I am unsure. Is it worth getting ssd or should I wait?
PNY 120gb: http://www.amazon.com/PNY-6Gbps-2-5-Inch-Solid-SSD9SC120GMDF-RB/dp/B007WT9SU0/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1397404470&amp;sr=8-14&amp;keywords=pny
Samsung 120gb: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Electronics-EVO-Series-2-5-Inch-MZ-7TE120BW/dp/B00E3W15P0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1397404538&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=samsung+evo
Would definitely recommend a 120GB SSD for your OS and a few select programs/games (preferably big ones that take a while to load). Here's a good one for about the same price as a good 1TB HDD.
> but which one should I buy, considering a Wi-Fi adapter?
The TP Link WDN-4800. It's very popular on this subreddit and gets recommended very often.
For cpu and Mobo I'd go with the I5 4690 and the ASRock H97 Pro4.
> Which 750w PSU for my GPU? (I'm talking about compatibility for pins)
Most 750W power supplies come with the necessary cables for the computer. I know for sure that this XFX Pro Series 850W has all the cables you need.
> About the RAM, I'd go for the faster CL9 I put in description
There is no scenario where you'll even notice the difference between CL9 and CL10... It might, just might improve when doing something like rendering / 3D-modeling.
So you can save yourself about 8,- that way.
> and same thing for the SSD 840 Pro, which has better read/write speed.
When only considering the read/write speeds you'd see 1 maybe 2% performance improvement over the 840 Evo. While the 840 Evo is ~30% cheaper.
If you think performance is important get the Samsung 840 Evo 120GB twice and put them in Raid 0. It improves performance up to 100%! And is still cheaper than the 840 Pro.
Yea, that motherboard is only so expensive because it currently supports the i7 extreme editions and Xenon Cpu's. I would absolutely recommend getting an SSD though. You can get an 120GB ssd for 80$. You can boot your computer from off to desktop in under 13 seconds and games load so fast its insane. When I play skyrim I don't even see loading screens anymore.
My advice is get a 250GB SSD and an external HDD for mass storage.
While the Black^2 is a neat idea for an all in one solution, I think it's just too expensive. For the $200 you can get a 120GB SSD and a 2TB USB3 external drive. Or maybe a 250GB SSD and a 1TB external.
IMO, if media is the bulk of your used space then getting a giant SSD just isn't worth it. You don't need the speed at all for those types of files, so that extra cost for the space sacrifice is wasted.
If you insisted on a large SSD, you can get a cheaper than the Samsung Crucial drive then buy an enclosure for your current HDD for media files.
I would go with a cheaper CPU. I don't know if you want to go as low as an i3, but I have a 3.4 GHz i3-4130 and it is decent. If I were you, I'd go with a cheaper CPU (this one is a dual-core i3), get a better GPU (GTX 760) and an SSD. I would also recommend GIGABYTE motherboards, specifically this one. You might also want to look into getting a higher wattage PSU, especially if you think you'll want to upgrade your GPU down the line.
Finally, if you have some cash in your budget left over, I'd definitely up that RAM to 12 or 16 GB. It's not imperative, especially with an SSD, but you'll find that you can have a lot more stuff open in the background, not that you would need to.
Whatever you decide to buy, make sure you are very careful installing your processor. If any of the pins on the motherboard get bent, you'll need a whole new motherboard.
TL;DR: Spend less on CPU, more on GPU, try a GIGABYTE motherboard, and get an SSD. Higher wattage PSU and more RAM if you can afford. Be careful with your motherboard.
That SSD seems way overpriced...
Get a Evo 120gb instead: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Electronics-EVO-Series-2-5-Inch-MZ-7TE120BW/dp/B00E3W15P0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1406749414&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=evo+840
> http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Electronics-EVO-Series-2-5-Inch-MZ-7TE120BW/dp/B00E3W15P0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1406749414&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=evo+840
Could be, but I'm buying in Canada, so a lot of Amazon.com stuff is off the table. Either they don't ship to Canada or the shipping + exchange + duties make a significant difference in out of pocket costs.
Looks good! I remember my first build. So exciting!
Only a minor change, I'd grab a Samsung 840 Evo over the Crucial. The 840 evo is a bit faster for not much more money. And if you can afford it, I'd grab a 250gb, especially if you plan on putting windows on it. SSD's have a knack for getting filled up quickly.
Also are you going to get any extra fans? That case only comes with 2.
I intend to use it primarily for video editing. I'll definitely end up with Final Cut X (it's what we use at work), but I'd like to learn the Adobe Suite for personal projects.
I'm completely new to building so any feedback I can get is gratefully accepted. I expect that I'm underpowered in key areas or overpowered in others, and may even have overlooked compatibility. Here's the build I'm looking at:
[CPU]
(http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KPRWB9G/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=1RORLKAP2BWSL&amp;coliid=I26KB1GS72W5JH)
Motherboard
[Memory]
(http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008LTBJFW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=1RORLKAP2BWSL&amp;coliid=I27ZF0ELS7WTUI&amp;psc=1)
[Video Card]
(http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IDG3IDO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=1RORLKAP2BWSL&amp;coliid=I1WMAY7HXBLUUO)
[Power Supply]
(http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ALYOPSS/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=1RORLKAP2BWSL&amp;coliid=I385MZ6CQFP5TP&amp;psc=1)
[Boot Drive]
(http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E3W15P0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=1RORLKAP2BWSL&amp;coliid=I2XFXVCKJXF2JH&amp;psc=1)
[Internal Storage]
(http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T3GRNW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=1RORLKAP2BWSL&amp;coliid=I1B3EQ0706J5GL&amp;psc=1)
SSD
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-120GB-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-7TE120BW/dp/B00E3W15P0/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1416925505&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=solid+state+drive&amp;pebp=1416925567661
I'd get a SDD for sure man the difference in performance is worth it. You could get a 120gb (like this) for pretty cheap. You could even take the HDD out of your external and mount it in your computer as traditional. storage
There are users reporting that an SSD greatly improved their load times and such, especially in games like Skyrim. I don't think hybrid drives are worth it, I'd either go with regular HDD or SSD if you want to spend extra money (but get less storage).
5400/7200 rpm probably won't matter if you go HDD. I think initial drives for PS3s are 5400.
If you want a simple HDD this is my recommendation. Cheap and will get the job done.
If you want an SSD this is a very solid option.
http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00E3W15P0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_img?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=BCP040VEKFYG&amp;coliid=I1DHCTNSSTFC4G&amp;psc=1
It's on this page. It says it's only for select models, so I would look into which ones those are to make sure that you get it.
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-120GB-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-7TE120BW/dp/B00E3W15P0/ref=pd_sim_pc_1?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1G8SMKQGJB5H19YY6CT9
Well, right now it's saying it does lol
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-120GB-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-7TE120BW/dp/B00E3W15P0/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417110593&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=840+EVO
Look right under the 'new' and 'used' links. for some reason it shows another pic of the SSD instead of the FC4 cover like before, but I'd guess it comes with it. I have no idea what to think at this point. I'm probably gonna order the 250GB EVO from TigerDirect since they have it for $105 after a paypal discount, then another $10 rebate for $95 total plus a copy of FC4 that I could sell to take another ~$20 off the drive.
Right now the Samsung is $60 on AmazonNever mind, it was this morning but not anymore :'($65 Samsung SSD
It's better than a HDD, but not as good as the ones /u/Jakomako suggested.
A good 120GB drive would be better. The 840EVO 120GB is only $65 on amazon. http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-120GB-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-7TE120BW/dp/B00E3W15P0
The Kingston V300 SSD is dodgy (see the recent Amazon reviews), here's an alternative http://www.amazon.co.uk/Samsung-120GB-Basic-Solid-State/dp/B00E3W15P0/
I know the general consensus on this sub is that hybrids don't offer enough of a benefit to warrant their price and a nice HDD will provide speeds that are good enough for most things. Most people end up getting a 1TB HDD and a smaller 120 or 250GB SSD to boot from and store some programs on. Many SSD's are on sale right now after BF/CM notably the 840 EVO. So unless you have your mind set I would reconsider.
woah. this is only 120gb and it has a free game code. compare to amazon's offer, which is also misleading.
click me!
If anyone was waiting to upgrade to an SSD, now is the time. Samsung 840 EVO's are going for cheap. Unfortunately, if you had ordered before yesterday, they came with a free copy of Far Cry 4.
It can actually be found for about $70 now, which is still more expensive but not by much.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E3W15P0/?tag=pcpapi-20
Option 1 looks great - thanks!
One question - the SSD you list seems to have little feedback compared to the slightly more expensive Samsung 840 EVO 120gb - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Samsung-120GB-Basic-Solid-State/dp/B00E3W15P0/ - so is that cost worth saving given the feedback?
Your best improvement for this particular case would be getting an SSD. Will speed things up for you tremendously! You can get a good 120gb one for 80USD http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-120GB-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-7TE120BW/dp/B00E3W15P0/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1421075852&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=SSD+samsung+840
If you want to spend less, get a 64gb version. If you want to futureproof (for your next build in a year), get a 250GB version.
The SSD... is actually one of the EVO series, isn't it?
I bought this SSD in November because they said it had a promo where it came with Far Cry 4. It specifically said that on the page and hundreds of others saw the same. Apparently it wasn't a promo and they had made a mistake, even though they caused a bunch of people to buy it. I had already ordered and they didn't let me cancel it. So it came. I asked them about the promo to see if they'd honor it. They said they'd get back to me on it. Never did.
Meh.
This one? What does it offer?
EDIT: Also, would an 830 version be better than the 840?
I know you've already purchased things but there's a lot you can improve and I'd suggest returning things to improve your build:
I think this one is better ( http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-120GB-2-5-840-SATAIII/dp/B00E3W15P0 ), better write speed than Crucial, I use it and the boot time is 3 Sec approx. , steam starts instantly after windows boot, I don't even see the update user information or username window, direct library. You can better discout if you search on good sites, I am from India so I bought it on flipkart.com for 80.86$ ( Rs. 5049 ), idk about your region so you gotta search it by yourself...
tl:dr = I prefer Samsung 840 Evo or 850 rather than Crucial.
Try a Samsung 840 evo. 120 gb for a
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E3W15P0?pc_redir=1404782623&amp;robot_redir=1
Edit: don't get a kingston. They are slower because kingston changed their firmware
I actually like this. Can we maybe change the case around? I really like simple pain cases from the outside. Also would I be able to place an SSD in there? This one is on my mind:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E3W15P0/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1410183583&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=SX200_QL40
Maybe a bit cheaper on the GPU like $130? XD But if not I can just stick with that one!
Also any ideas about cooling such as fans?
Would a case like this work since it's the same as the motherboard that you listed?
http://pcpartpicker.com/part/corsair-case-200r
We can also go a bit higher on the motherboard for a better one.
Thank you so much.
I found it for $539 on ebay. The hdd seems to be the biggest bottleneck with this laptop so I bought a 128gb SSD.
Here are the links for anyone interested.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111481394116?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&amp;ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E3W15P0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A3MDUFUQOQTCYS
Hi, it's me again.
I read the reviews for the SSD you recommended and there are a lot of complains about a performance reduction since last month. Do you know if Samsung released a fix for that?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E3W15P0 60$ 120GB SSD with Far Cry 4.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E3W15P0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
If you're able to get some money back on these two I would highly highly highly recommend an SSD!
EDIT: This is a good starting point!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E3W15P0/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Better off going with this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E3W15P0/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?qid=1419980212&amp;sr=8-6&amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
It's way faster and one of the most popular ones, its pretty much the same price too so thats a bonus.
Would something like this SSD be okay for ps3?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E3W15P0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1382714287&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
Sorry for asking I'm not the most tech savvy when it comes to SSD drives.
You can save a fair amount on this SSD, the MX100, for $115. While the performance on that samsung is really impressive, I'm not sure it is worth it for the standard gamer.
The R9 280 will probably be the best option to squeeze into your budget.
In terms of RAM, all you need is the best deal you can find on 1600MHz CL9 running at 1.5 volts.
Not to sure on optical drives as I haven't used one in a while. Good luck though and enjoy the process.
111USD Don't know if its any good.
http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX100-adapter-Internal-CT256MX100SSD1/dp/B00KFAGCWK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1407798008&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=250Gb+SSD
An i5 4690K and a Z97 motherboard would be more suitable, and you should only need 8GB of RAM.
This SSD is a little cheaper than the one you chose.
Lastly, there is no need to get a low-profile CPU cooler for a fullsize ATX case. Get a tower cooler to maximise cooling and minimise noise.
first of all you have a Z87 mobo, this is outdated and you will want a Z97 mobo. Are you intending to overclock? if so, a 4670k or 4690k is the default choice. great price/performance ratio and will last you at least 4-5 years before you need a new cpu, esspeically once OC'ed to the high 4ghz range.
Some other notes on your build below:
As for the ram, you are way over paying for it. it's your regular 1600 mhz cas 9 ram. that ram is run of the mill with a fancy name slapped on it. Get a 2x4gb kit from g. skill or something similar for $60-80 range.
case: case is completely subjective, but that's a fairly basic case for $100. I would recommend something like a source 210 windowed version for $40. In builds this, don't drop $100 on a case. That extra $60 can bump you up another GPU tier.
Case fans: Case fans are again, something completely based on opinion but i notice they are 140mm fans and im assuming you are using the two red ones to replace the case fans and the two bitfenix for rad fans? if so these need to all be 120mm fans (unless the case specifies it will work with 140). however, i would say only get 2 anyway and only replace the case fans as those are pretty expensive fans. This is an area to cut cost if you are on a buget.
CPU cooler: that CLC is a fine cooler, but if you are on a budget this is an area to cut cost as well. Something like a 212 evo will give you 90% just as good temps for $30 without the hassle of worrying about leaks or pump failures. If you are not overclocking absolutely do not waste $100 here. A non-overclocked cpu will do fine with the stock cooler.
Psu: fine psu, no tips
GPU: 760 is a fine gpu (i have one in my build right now) however if you save some money in other areas you could get a 770 or 280x or something for the same price.
SSD: m500 has been replaced by the mx100. Here it is at the same price however this one performs better and is newer
hope that points you in the right direction.
Change the SSD. The Crucial MX100 is cheaper and better.
http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX100-adapter-Internal-CT256MX100SSD1/dp/B00KFAGCWK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1411622882&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=crucial+mx100+256gb
You could also get a Corsair CX600M for $20 cheaper and it'd be way more than enough to run the system. Or, an EVGA Supernova 750G2 for $15 cheaper.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139048&amp;cm_re=cx600m-_-17-139-048-_-Product
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438028
For the price I'd say the EVGA looks the best.
The case looks good. Another alternative if you want a lot more cooling is the Rosewill Blackhawk, but it looks more flashy and perhaps less refined.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147107
As for the keyboard, honestly I'd not even think about going with such a basic keyboard unless it was for a very budget build. You'll be better served by getting something like the CM Storm Devastator Mouse/Keyboard combo. The keyboard is available either Red or Blue backlit and is pretty good for typing because it has well-spaced keys and good key travel. The mouse has buttons for adjusting DPI on the fly and side buttons you can use while gaming. Even if you already have a better mouse, it'd work great as a backup.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LZVP71A/ref=gno_cart_title_0?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
The rest looks solid. Good luck!
Its a good one for the drive, i think, but i dont know if i would buy it. If at all possible, i suggest getting a 250gb or so just because it makes life that much easier and you can install several huge games on it and not worry about it. Ive heard nothing but good things about the quality of Intel drives though. The only bad apple you have to watch out for is the 840 Evo drives because theres a problem where its performance drops when dealing with older files. Apparently they're working on a fix for it, but who knows.
The SSD-sweet-spot you should be aiming for should be to pay less than 50c per GB. Ive seen it drop to the high 30c ranges before. I would just browse /r/buildapcsales and Slickdeals.net until a drive comes up on other one and see if you like it. This crucial is another well liked drive that i would definitely consider though.
Yes talked to her about it and think we will go with the Acer V5 473P-5602 and then throw either a 128gb or 256gb Crucial MX100 SSD in it.
Think this will be plenty fast for her?
I posted above but will this SSD (http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00KFAGCWK/?tag=pcp0f-20) work here? I was going to purchase it for the other desktop build and figured I would swap it out when I get the desktop and not buy an SSD twice.
Are you outside the US? If not, they're in stock on Amazon and Newegg
I realize I'm late to the party but i figured I'd let you know what I've been using for a while now and am very happy with.
http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX100-adapter-Internal-CT256MX100SSD1/dp/B00KFAGCWK/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1416455113&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=crucial+mx100
and this
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZJI84/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
There is no need to get an enclosure for an SSD drive. I learned that the hard way when i realized the chipset on the enclosure i bought was putting off more heat than the SSD itself.
Great thing about the SSD... you can change the interface. No USB3 but have eSATA?
Bam
http://www.amazon.com/Shared-eSATA-Cable-Laptop-Drive/dp/B002MKKTWA/ref=sr_1_25?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1416455341&amp;sr=1-25&amp;keywords=SATA+to+esata
Edit...
And you'll get way better performance too.
MX100.
256GB model is $110. 512GB model is $205. I'm using the 256GB model along with my 1TB mechanical drive, and I love it.
http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX100-adapter-Internal-CT256MX100SSD1/dp/B00KFAGCWK
The Crucial MX100 is the best bang for your buck imo.
This SSD is twice the capacity for the same price:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KFAGCWK/
> If you can get one of those in 250g for $100, let me know where so I can order one!
http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX100-adapter-Internal-CT256MX100SSD1/dp/B00KFAGCWK
Amazon has the MX100 going for $110 at the moment.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KFAGCWK/?tag=pcpapi-20
You can get 500GB laptop hard drives for $50- on Amazon, Newegg, etc.
For example:
http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Laptop-500GB-7200RPM-ST500LM021/dp/B00ISKS416/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1415505576&amp;sr=1-5
7200 RPM is decent.
But, 7200 RPM ain't shit compared to an SSD! IT will make everything start and stop MUCH faster, whether it be windows, games, applications, etc. I would highly recommend 256GB SSD like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX100-adapter-Internal-CT256MX100SSD1/dp/B00KFAGCWK/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1415505835&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=solid+state+drive
That has plenty of room for what you are describing.
If you need extra storage for pics or something get and external HDD as well. But we should all have one of those anyway!
$130 250GB or $113 256GB the smaller ones cost less, personally 120 doesn't cut it.
Also putting it in the second bay is somewhat pointless, you want windows installed on the SSD and have it as your primary app drive.
Take Crucial MX100 - very much faster than Kingston V300 for the same price.
Take Cooler Master G550M - a lot better than XFX TS 550 Bronze for 1 Euro less, it's also modular, quieter and has 5 year warranty.
For £15 more you can get a 256gb Crucial SSD
I recently added that SSD to my rig, I've got the "old" 1tb holding my games/ videos etc
I see, thanks a lot for the great explanation :)
Out of interest, if I could spare the extra £80, which GPU would it be, and could it slot straight into this build without any other adjustments? And which PSU + mobo would you have recommended? If I manage to add to the budget I'd be interesting in stepping it up a little from the compromised options!
Also, I'm assuming the 256GB version of the SSD (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Crucial-CT256MX100SSD1-256GB-Includes-Spacer/dp/B00KFAGCWK/ref=lh_ni_t?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE) will work just as well in this build?
Sorry for the many questions, thanks again, I really appreciate the help here :)
Here is some information that may help in making your decision.
TL;DR, here are some recommended SSDs:
I like this one
Also, when using an SSD, a good way to do it is to use both an SSD and an HDD at the same time. Install the OS (Windows) and programs on the SSD and everything else goes on the HDD (user files, my documents, pictures, etc.).
Here's another couple threads to help you set up your SSD for Windows 7 or Windows 8, respectively:
Windows 7
Windows 8
No, you would have to have the game on an SSD for it to have any effect. To be honest the only thing having a game on an SSD will do is give you faster load times. It wont really effect the gameplay at all.
I would really suggest at least a 120gb SSD for putting your OS on. It makes for a much smoother experience. I couldn't live without my SSD.
This one is cheap and pretty nice http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX100-adapter-Internal-CT256MX100SSD1/dp/B00KFAGCWK/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417048360&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=mx+100
If it's content creation you want to do (ala running GTA V on good settings while recording it with minimal performance impact), then you should probably choose a core i7 over an i5. I run an i5 4670k with crossfired R9 290x's and video recording can still impact performance .
This is not so much the case when I record with AMD Raptr's in built GVR function as that's GPU based. Nvidia graphics cards also ship with software with its own GPU based recorder which means that will probably perform similarly, if not better - bypassing your need for an i7,but when I use a dedicated video recorder the frame rate impact is noticeable, even if it isn't a great impact in most games. CPU intense games will suffer more in this scenario.
But if you have dedicated recording software that you want to use then it's the CPU you're gonna want to pay a little attention to. Further to this, video editting/creation software will also benefit a lot from the i7. A hyperthreaded i7 will have 4 physical cores, but 8 virtual cores. Means better multi tasking, and more efficient content creation (and better quality recording).
It's not impossible to do any of this on an i5, an i5 on its own is more than just fine for gaming (and having whatever websites running in the background) but when it comes to content creation an i7 really pays dividends. I suppose if money really is a constraint at the moment then you could skip on getting an i7 for now and see how your i5 treats you, as I said it should still work reasonably.
As suggested earlier, the GTX 970 is a great shout. Excellent price:performance ratio, right now. Low power consumption, eats through most games on ultra settings (as long as it isn't at 4K resolution).
You definitely need new sorage, I'd suggest getting a small solid state drive (SSD) , perhaps 256 GB as they're priced rather reasonably now. Crucial sells them on amazon for about £76. This should be for your Operating System(OS) and to install GTA V onto. This will allow your game and OS to run at their fastest capability. I would avoid Kingston SSD's.
And in addition to this, it's definitely worth finding a larger Hard drive (HDD) for storing all your other data and stuff on (like videos, photos, music, games you're not playing at the moment). decent 1TB ones can go for around £40 these days. It is possible to hold off on this, and just get the SSD first and add the HDD later when you have more money - but SSD's are the way PC's are going now because their lightning speed and low power consumption are transformative to the PC experience (and should also improve content creation speeds to an extent).
your RAM should be fine, though going up to 16GB should help with video editors and stuff, though I dont think it's the most alarming thing that needs to be upgraded. It should play GTA V fine. Power supply seems fine, too.
Damn I went to bed before I saw your post. PNY and Kingston got caught in a bait and switch. They posted better benchmarks then their ssd's actually gave. Is there any way you can return your ssd and pick up this one?
I had this recommended to me when I asked the same question.
Yea, I picked it because it was super cheap and had decent reviews. It's not a bad sdd by any means. It has slower write speeds, but decent read speeds, which is what you will mostly use... If your budget isn't super tight get this for an extra $30ish:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KFAGCWK/?tag=pcpapi-20
or alternatively, if you want the best, get this for an extra $70ish:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OAJ412U/?tag=pcpapi-20
The Crucial MX100 is a great SSD.
http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX100-adapter-Internal-CT256MX100SSD1/dp/B00KFAGCWK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1419611334&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=crucial+mx100
MX100 on Amazon is $109.99
Perhaps you meant the M500? $79.99 at Newegg & Amazon
Silicon Power S60 120/240gb
Crucial MX100
Mushkin Chronos
I own one of each of these, and they're all very good so far. The Silicon Power ones have some of the best technical reviews out there right now, and I've been loving mine
Crucial MX100 256GB can be yours today for about €100. If you're prepared to wait a bit then there'll be deals in January or alternatively, there's always Flubit.
If you do go with that rig, I'd definitely pick up an SSD. Something like
http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX100-adapter-Internal-CT256MX100SSD1/dp/B00KFAGCWK
will make a huge difference.
Hi, I am preparing to replace the hard drive in my laptop with a 256gb SSD. I have a 500gb slim 2.5" hard drive, and I was wondering if this would work as a suitable replacement. I am more concerned about the "slim" aspect of the hard drive, but know that 2.5" is correct. TIA!