(Part 2) Best decking & fencing products according to redditors

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We found 80 Reddit comments discussing the best decking & fencing products. We ranked the 42 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

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Subcategories:

Decking & fencing hardware
Decking & fencing materials
Fencing railings & pickets
Decking & fencing gates

Top Reddit comments about Decking & Fencing:

u/checktheradar · 100 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Those look like footing pads, not brake rotors from a car...

Basically, these. They keep the wood from directly contacting moisture and then rotting. Are they to code? Where is this house?

...

Actually, I just looked again. They look like brake rotors from a car acting as footing pads. Weird.

u/scarabic · 4 pointsr/composting

Even simpler than palettes is to just use a slightly more durable version of “chicken wire,” like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C89QJU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YG9PCbHAA6K7K

Just cut off 10 feet of it and stand it up in a circle. Boom. You have a 3-foot cylinder. Sew up the ends with a zip ties or wire and that’s all you need to do. Even better, when it’s time to turn the pile you just undo your ties and peel the metal cloth away. Your pile will stick together in place. Set up your cylinder right next to it and shovel it all in. This works so much better than an uncontained pile on the ground, due to the low angle of repose that finished compost has.

u/_MuzykMann · 4 pointsr/homegym

Afraid I'm not that meticulous with my plans or execution, but from a high level -

  • The posts are pressure treated 6x6s, 14' long for pull ups, 10' for the rack. I hand-dug holes about 3.5'-4' deep and a foot in diameter, filled the bottom 6" with gravel (for drainage, don't want the bottom of the post to sit in a puddle underground), dropped in the posts, and filled the rest of the hole with concrete.
  • The rest of the platform was dug out with a shovel some 4-6" deep and filled with crushed stone (crush and run, as some call it). Used a hand tamper to compact it all down and level for a nice solid base that will also drain water through.
  • I used outdoor decking tiles as my platform. 1' squares, they snap together, are designed to live outdoors, and allow water to drain through. They have a little give, but once stomped down into the gravel they seem plenty sturdy. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ALK5DXC/
  • I was using stall mats for the pads last year, but they held water and were gross after a season. Upgraded to vented tiles designed to go over concrete garage floors. They don't provide much give, but the crushed stone underneath can handle that for me. Mostly for looks, a little so my bumpers aren't landing on sharp rocks. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y2LGZT2/
  • Border I added this year, made from retaining wall blocks found at home depot. A big upgrade from the plastic edging I tried before, and not much more expensive (just a pain to haul and level)
  • I picked up some monster lag bolts and screwed them into holes drilled into the squat rack posts. Holds great. Will nick up my bar, but it's already being sacrificed to humidity keeping it in the shed, so I'm not worried about it.
  • Pull up bar is powdercoated and designed for outdoors. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N4W1OFG/
  • The deck storage container is there for bumper plate storage. Waterproof. I bring in the bumpers during the winter. Beats the hell out of trying to haul em in and out of the shed each use.

    ​

    I'm happier when I'm not keeping track of dollar values on these things, but... I dunno... $700-800 total? Maybe?

    ​

    Hope that helps!
u/puterTDI · 3 pointsr/BackYardChickens

you could get an automatic coop door:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TONTHRG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

We have a coop run that is highly secured, and a main coop that is also secured. We close the coop run manually, and the main coop house closes automatically. All it took was closing the girls in the main coop run then letting themselves get locked out overnight a few times for them to learn to get in the house. Now we have gone down after dark more than once and all the girls are in the house and the door closed.

you would need to secure the main run area better to use our approach though. Our run is enclosed on all sides (including bottom) with 1/2" hardware cloth. Right next to the main house door (where the girls tend to sit if they get locked out) is #8 mesh. All mesh is secured between pieces of cedar framing with screws running through the cedar and the mesh.

We use the slide type doors which I feel are more secure than other options. one I made myself with diamond plate aluminum (if you can get flat aluminum I recommend it) that slides between rails of flat bar aluminum that have a gap created by washers. You can also buy a very similar design if you want to:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018KIVUC0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


The biggest thing you need to do to secure your coop/run area is enclose the entire thing in hardware cloth. It needs to be the small 1/2" hardware cloth like here: https://www.amazon.com/Hardware-Galvanized-Chicken-Supports-Poultry/dp/B015PD9F52/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1499439834&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=hardware+cloth&psc=1.

When I say enclose, I mean fully enclose on all sides including top and bottom. The cloth must be screwed/anchored in place (not just stapled). If you use larger cloth then animals such as racoons can reach through and grab the chickens. You should include the house in the enclosure. If you do not secure the bottom then they will just dig under and in.

I've had animals try and fail to get into my coop. I came out one day to find blood all over one side of the coop where an animal had tried to scratch its way in and lost claws. I also have come out to find that animals had tried to dig under the coop only to find hardware cloth there as well. you MAY be able to get away with just putting a hardware cloth skirt a few feet out from the coop but I prefer to just have the floor be hardware cloth.

Finally, all latches that allow us to get into the coop are safety latches since racoons can figure out normal latches. we mostly use hook and eyes like these (I use stainless though): https://www.amazon.com/Zinc-Plated-Wire-Safety-4-Pack/dp/B01LYNKFIL/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499440049&sr=1-1&keywords=hook+and+eye+safety+latch

Though our main coop door does have this sort of latch (which we intend to add a padlock to if there are signs of animals getting in through it): https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-National-Hardware-CD1271-Sliding/dp/B009YNW3QS/ref=sr_1_12?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499440093&sr=1-12&keywords=gate+latch+lock

u/Breeze7206 · 2 pointsr/witchcraft

Yeah, I just pour it on it.
A metal trivet could work well. Cast iron is a generally poor conductor of heat as far as metals go, and they almost always have feet on them that have heat resistant pads to 1) insulate just in case and 2) prevent scratching tables. And they’re quite inexpensive.

You could also get a piece of hardware cloth and cut it into the shape of the receptacle you’re burning in to act as a trap for any flyaway material without smothering the flame.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EXWMOY0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0FdCCb5NYEME
You can the amount you need at a local hardware store.

I don’t burn a ton of stuff, but since you do it might be good to cover more bases and reduce risks.

u/scayne · 2 pointsr/landscaping

Think about erosion control - jute mesh, straw or coconut blankets, etc.

I did something similar with a jute mesh blanket. I loosened up the soil, layed the mesh and put the largest bark nuggets I could get. The nuggets embed themselves and create a variable surface. The blanket holds them in place until they settle.

Jute Mesh: Amazon

u/S_W · 2 pointsr/DIY

I've looked into this quite a bit and the best way I found (which may be overkill) is to get the following:

  • vinyl coated steel cable LINK
  • Swageless Fork Terminal LINK
  • Eye Hooks at your mounting points that the terminals will connect to
  • Optional Turnbuckles LINK

    The turnbuckles would really only be needed if you don't believe you could get the steel cable tight enough, but if you have a short span it shouldn't be an issue. If you plan to run the steel cable through each eye hook and only have the terminals at the ends, then the turnbuckle may be needed.

    EDIT:
    They also make much cleaner looking solutions where the terminals have a built-in turnbuckle like THIS and terminals that have a lag bolt already attached which would remove the need for eye hooks like THIS
u/PositiveFalse · 2 pointsr/DIY

Long story short (sorry, not really), if $2/baluster is within your budget, then black-coated round ALUMINUM 26-inchers are there for the taking. I'm estimating that you'll need 170 for your fifty feet, give or take. Steel versions may also be available for less money - or more money, depending - but those are typically not ideally suited for exterior use...

https://www.amazon.com/Deckorators-Aluminum-26-Balusters-DB52613/dp/B01BUAXYP6

Home Depot, Lowe's & Menard's should have similar buys. Take a close look at the reviewer images and you'll see that some utilized decorative mounts and some didn't. They're NOT required...

Now, with a Tee at the top, the vertical member does the lion's share of the work. If someone sits on the section, it's literally the joist that carries the load. With the handrail that runs flat across the top length of that "joist,", the railing becomes more dimensionally stable, with the horizontal and vertical members keeping each other in check. And everything below is basically there for aesthetics...

Essentially, the "joist" of the Tee is bored to accept a baluster at 1-inch depth, the bottom post-to-post runner is bored to accept a baluster at 1/2in depth. All in alignment, of course. The runner is mounted at a distance 1-inch shy of the baluster length from the bottom of the Tee. Then each baluster is pushed up into the "joist" and dropped into place in the runner. Carefully add a little construction adhesive into those runner bores before dropping each baluster into place and those components will NOT come apart without some effort!

If using brackets to hang each section from post-to-post, and if using construction adhesive to bond the handrail to the "joist," then the visible use of fasteners can be practically reduced to almost nothing...

Hope this helps, again!

Edit #1: From that Amazon link, the third reviewer's sectional construction is basically what I was trying to describe assembled...

Edit #2:
If using brackets, then everything can be easily dropped into place with the balusters sandwiched into position. Therefore, the "joist" bore can be 1/2-inch deep, just like the runner bore, and construction adhesive won't be needed at all...

u/hvyhitter · 2 pointsr/sailing

Id buy stuff from you. Ive been watching Niki from untie the lines and she measured her own and had someone swage them. she measured wrong and had to cut them down (ouch). My rig comes down tomorrow and I am going to inspect it. Ive learned a few things from Youtube LOL.

In fact. I need some lifelines. I had a swage fall off one and I got it lashed right now with some paracord. The boat comes out 8am tommorrow and wont go back in until april it is on my project list.

I was going to buy this
https://www.amazon.com/Threaded-Package-Stainless-Marine-Packages/dp/B00IX42OAO/ref=pd_rhf_gw_p_img_6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7DV1WPHY4SN6FRCXEA8B

and smash it on with this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PCHK4JS/ref=pd_sim_60_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Q25GD64S095G2F2T2Z08

Im not convinced my lifelines are that important.. AND I think they are below my knees so chances are I am going to go over it anyhow.. ANd break them in the process. I have all kinds of handholds when I go to the foredeck.

anyhow.. love to get your thoughts. because I know you wont BS me. (We have spoken a few times here)

u/bruxbuddies · 2 pointsr/RATS

Would something like this work if I sprayed it with Rustoleum? (Let me know what kind of spray paint to get.) I think the additional mesh would be 30" x 12" (x2) and 18" x 12" (x2). So I think a 10' roll would be enough, but please let me know if anyone can figure that out...

u/Notevenspecial · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

The question you might ask, is how long to you want it to last? Raw untreated pine, sitting on the soil, is going to start rotting from the first minute it gets hit with a sprinkler or rain.

If this is going to be your forever mobile coop, you need to go back to the drawing board, unfortunately. Your base needs to be much more robust, and it shouldn't rot, rust, or get eaten by bugs. I'm going to suggest aluminum channel:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Crown-Bolt-3-4-in-W-x-9-16-in-H-x-96-in-L-Aluminum-C-Channel-with-1-16-in-Thick-56870/100338033

$11 for 8 feet. Resists bending against the channel. Very lightweight. Easy to cut. Will never rust. OK, it'll oxidize, but not enough to worry about.

For the wheels, get six of them. One on each corner, and two in the center. These would float over your yard:

http://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-solid-rubber-tire-42427.html

or get some swivel plate castors:

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2-Heavy-Duty-Steel-Swivel-Caster-Black-Nylon-Wheel-Large-Top-Plate-NEW/32239532215.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.226.0wokOf&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_7,searchweb201602_1_10057_10056_10037_10055_10049_301_10059_10058_10032_10017_405_404_106_10040_105_104_10060_103_10061_102_412,searchweb201603_8&btsid=bc8dcd0b-9e8f-4fcc-babd-12da1185ce7f

The door and the wire are going to be something to think about. Chicken wire is flimsy, lightweight, and cheap. It is hard to make it look professional, because you have to keep it stretched tight all the time. Hardware cloth is a far better product:

https://www.amazon.com/Windscreen4less-19-Gauge-2-Inch-Mesh-Galvanized-Hardware/dp/B00VWA1X08/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1469766180&sr=1-3&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A7023327011

PM me if you get as far as the door.

Good luck, buddy. You've got a job ahead of you.

u/rjch · 1 pointr/gardening

I've constructed baskets with 1/2 inch opening hardware cloth and j-clips/pliers (used to make cages for rabbits). I ordered a 36" wide and 50 ft long roll of hardware cloth. My baskets are 20-inch squares, 8 inches deep. Planted my seeds, and put the baskets over them - so they won't get dug up by squirrels. You could anchor the baskets with landscaping staples if you think it will be a problem.

http://www.homemadebycarmona.com/diy-wire-baskets/

http://www.amazon.com/Windscreen4less-19-Gauge-2-Inch-Mesh-Galvanized-Hardware/dp/B00VW9VLPG?ie=UTF8&keywords=1%2F2%20inch%20hardware%20cloth&qid=1459308901&ref_=sr_1_10&sr=8-10

u/LD_in_MT · 1 pointr/Welding

I feel better about the 1/2" rod if it goes all the way through, but 1/2" doesn't sound particularly rigid.

What I would do is make the 1" tubing (below the 1/2" rod) flush with the bottom board, so that the 1" tubing can't flex under load. I don't like any give, flex of sway. Notice how it's harder to do a handstand on carpet or any surface with give, versus a hard floor?

I've been thinking about making something like this but I want it to break down for easier transport. I was thinking about something close to what you have but with the down tube (1/2" rod in your build) sleeved at the base inside a slightly larger tube and secured with a pin, like this: https://www.amazon.com/Curt-Manufacturing-25080-CURT-Safety/dp/B001GN3H5A But the fit needs to be tight, so I might need set screws. Something that looks like this at the base. https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Square-Component-Terminal-Railing/dp/B00VS60MYO/

I'd probable use a thin-wall 1" box tubing for the whole thing, screwed into a 2' x 3' x 3/4" plywood. Under the hand supports (at top) I'd weld a metal plate slightly smaller than the wood hand grips with shallow screws up from the bottom. Id' make the metal base one piece, versus two.

u/mdwyer · 1 pointr/Whatisthis

I agree. It is a DIN Rail Terminal Block. In a lot of industrial electrical systems, different things can be interchangeably mounted to a section of DIN Rail.