Best digital audio workstation controllers according to redditors

We found 125 Reddit comments discussing the best digital audio workstation controllers. We ranked the 26 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Digital Audio Workstation Controllers:

u/Zenithik · 11 pointsr/vjing

Here's what I would do (and have done) to get started:

Visuals

  • Get a laptop with a decent graphics card
  • Download Resolume Arena 6 (free, with watermark on output)
  • Download free visuals from Beeple to play with
  • Optional: Buy a MIDI controller to make control easier, especially for future performances. This is my personal favorite, but you could use something like this too.
  • Optional: connect to a projector and point it at something weird in your room and try to projection map it

    Lighting

  • Download GrandMA2 and MA3D
  • Watch a LOT of tutorials (Console Training to start, Christian Jackson for more advanced things)
  • Start making small rigs and visualize them using MA3D, controlling them with MA2
  • Optional: Learn how to connect a MIDI controller using remote inputs
  • NOTE: to actually output from MA you need MA hardware. This is expensive, but you are also learning the most used lighting software in the entertainment industry and it will be invaluable information. If you want to get outputting lights using professional software for a relatively affordable price, consider the Elation M-Touch.


    Lasers

  • Download the QuickShow demo
  • Learn how to use it
  • Learn and understand rules around using lasers at events and what is required (I.E. variances!)
  • Take proper training as you could literally blind someone if you do this wrong

    Pyro

  • Ask a professional for real training
  • Absolutely do not do this yourself
  • ...That is, unless you are interested in fire spinning on stage AKA flowarts, in which case, I can help you with that too. But I am assuming you are talking about controlled pyrotechnics here.

    Atmospheric

  • Learn the difference between a fogger, hazer, and Co2
  • Learn the difference between an oil based hazer and a water based one
u/amaraNT2oo2 · 6 pointsr/synthesizers

Not exactly the same type of product, but the Griffin StudioConnect is an inexpensive ($15; $25 after buying a Lightning adapter off eBay) way to do everything that you described. MIDI in and out, audio in (via stereo 1/8" and mono 1/4" for guitars), audio out (1/8" headphone jack; stereo RCA), and it charges the iPad during use.

It really does make my iPad "feel" like a touchscreen hardware workstation synth - I just connect MIDI cables from my keyboard into it, connect its output to my mixer, and start playing around with apps. Of course, now that I bought an iConnectAudio4+, it's more of a backup interface.

u/hobsonUSAF · 6 pointsr/WeddingPhotography

Certainly!

I started with this controller and this plug in. You can map the buttons, sliders, knobs, etc to virtually any adjustment in lightroom.

This controller is WAY better, motorized sliders which is immensely useful. As with anything in the photography world, its expensive. But my time is $$$!

u/dogeatdawg · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I'll second this. I have the AD18 on a pair of Kef R300s and it's working well. They get louder than I can handle.

I've seen the SMSL SA50 recommended as well for smaller systems, but it has fewer input options (e.g. no USB input) and fewer features overall.

The JBL305s would be an alternative, as they have their own integrated amp. You just need to connect them to your PC, and get an optional kit like this one that comes with cables, a volume controller (pre-amp) and some foam isolation pads.

u/ggfools · 3 pointsr/audiophile

his turntable has a built in preamp (which he is currently running to the speakers) so he can easily add a passive preamp between the two without the need for a phono stage, the sys is an option, but something like the Mackie Big Knob or JBL Nano Patch is designed for studio monitors. i'd probably grab the Mackie Big Knob just because it has 2 inpuits/2 outputs

pretty much all you need is the mackie big knob, a set of TRS cables to go from the big knob to the monitors, and a set of TRS to RCA cables to go to the turntables preamp, optionally add a second set of TRS to RCA cables to connect to another source (or TRS to 3.5mm to connect to a computer/phone/etc)

u/thamesynne · 3 pointsr/synthesizers

This synth-action piano from Alesis fits your budget - with room for a cheap multi-effect pedal on top. (A multiFX is probably the quickest way of turning five relatively undistinguished sounds into something a bit more unique. Within your budget, these kinds of GM boxes are your alternative for expanding your palette in a relatively portable way, perhaps combined with a slightly cheaper dumb keyboard like the Keystation 88 mk2; but chances are you'd still want the multiFX, and that quickly turns into Too Many Boxes...)

edit: If you can stand to lose an octave, Casio do a few 76-key keyboards (the WK245 is $199) - but at least one commenter complains that the black keys are too thin, so maybe try one first if you can. That might be your best option for something you can sling under your arm and vamp on with a few friends.

u/ghostbackwards · 3 pointsr/ipadmusic

this one right here

then i just need to spend my other 100 on a mic? Any ideas for that?

also, what do you mean by "complete interface"?

Can you show me what an incomplete interface is just for comparison?

u/_fuma_ · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

You don't need another DAC if you already have one in the Fiio, but AFAIK, the analog line out of the Fiio is fixed, not variable.

My suggestion would be to add a monitor controller after the Fiio and before the monitors. This will allow volume to be controlled as well as switching inputs (depending on model). Most have dual outputs which allow a second set of monitors, or you could run the second set to a sub - and have it switchable on the controller.

WIRING:

3.5mm TRS stereo male to dual RCA or 6.3mm (1.4") TS males, depending on controller used

Then simple 1/4" TS to 1/4" TS for passive controllers to the JBL monitors, (or you can use dual 1/4" TRS on the active controllers)

-

PASSIVES (with 2 switchable inputs)

u/crazyaudioguy · 3 pointsr/audioengineering

If you decide to purchase one rather than build it, I'd suggest the SM Pro Audio M-Patch 2. It's more versatile than the Nanopatch with 2 inputs, 2 outputs, Headphone out, and mono/stereo switch. And it's passive so it wouldn't color your sound.

u/Umlautica · 2 pointsr/audiophile

You can use something like this 3.5mm to 1/4" cable to connect them directly to a PC.

If you want a physical volume control you can use a Fostex PC1e and these RCA to 1/4 cables instead.

If you want to spend $100 and need a headphone amp then the Schiit Fulla 2 has a volume knob and a headphone amp built in.

u/o0turdburglar0o · 2 pointsr/linuxquestions

That has a single XLR input, and onboard effects. Doesn't seem very flexible to me. For the price, I'm not at all interested.

Unless you are specifically wanting an 'all in one' outboard solution like that, which requires quite a bit of compromise in terms of price, flexibility, and usually quality... I personally would rather go with a modular solution and software effects, as that would remove all limitations and be more easily upgraded at a later date... Not to mention it would be cheaper.

Free effects are abundant on Linux. A nice all-inclusive option would be something like Guitarix. It's a full suite of 'guitar' effects (which would work fine for vocals as well.)

You'll need the following hardware (examples included:)

  1. XLR input:
  • Scarlett Solo has 1 XLR and 1 line in. Great sounding preamps.
  • Behringer UMC22 is similar in features, very inexpensive.
  • Depending on what you'll be using this for, you may want to consider an option with two XLR inputs in case you want two people (or just two mics) simultaneously.

  1. Control surface: These have knobs/buttons/sliders that can be assigned to anything in your software.
  • Akai MidiMix - Lots of sliders and knobs.
  • Behringer Xtouch Mini - Inexpensive and portable

    So if you went with the Scarlett Solo + Akai MidiMix, you'd have more flexibility, better preamps, and more easily portable setup for less than half the price.

    With the Behringer options listed above, it would be 1/4 the price, again with all the benefits I listed.

    FYI, the example products in this comment are just that: examples. There are dozens of other options available.
u/the_blue_wizard · 2 pointsr/audio

Well, that brings up a factor I would have told you about if I had been in communication with you in advance. The Optical Out does NOT respond to the TV Volume Control. It is that way on all TVs. That is because there is no volume to control, it is a series of numbers until it pass through the DAC at which time it become voltages.

So, you do need some type of volume control. Were I previously been advising you, I would have recommended some Edifier Speakers that do have their own Volume Controls (remote control).

https://www.edifier.com/us/en/shop?product_type=Speakers&features_group=[[%22bookshelf%20speakers%22]]

Sometime the square brackets can mess up Links, so simply go to Edifier.com and select Products, then select Bookshelf Speakers.

The Mackie Big Knob (passive) will give you a manual volume control, but not a remote control.

https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-Controller-2x2-KNOB-Passive/dp/B01NCUZ32O/

What you really need is an Amp with Pre-Amp out, or a Pre-Amp either with a Remote Control. That's not going to be free, but if you search out used equipment, it would be reasonably priced.

But yes, you need some way, external to the TV, to control the volume.

Sorry about that. Any chance you can come up with some cash to create a better system?

If you have a budget but it is limited consider something like this -

https://www.edifier.com/us/en/speakers/r1280db-bluetooth-bookshelf-speakers-built-in-amplifier-coaxial-optical

If you can wrangle up some serious money, then consider this -

https://www.edifier.com/us/en/speakers/s350db-bookshelf-speakers-subwoofer



EDITED: Actually I searched Amazon for "DAC with Remote Control" and these two DACs came up, both roughly $20 -

https://www.amazon.com/Neoteck-Converter-Digital-Coaxial-Adjustment/dp/B07G6YXSHD/

https://www.amazon.com/Optical-Digital-Converter-Support-Control/dp/B07BKX8BV7/

If you want to salvage what you already have, these DACs could be a workable solution at a modest price.

Let me know what you think.

u/nac_nabuc · 2 pointsr/photography

I'm looking to get a MIDI controller to use it for editing in Lightroom, after researching for an hour I think the Behringer X-Mini Midi controller. It's affordable and offers a fair amount of knobs/buttons. However I'm afraid that it might not be enough. The 16 knobs (8 with 2 layouts) seem fair, but I think I could use more than 16 buttons. Does anyone know a similar controller (in size and price) with some more normal buttons?

If not, I'll just order this one, but I just want to make sure there isn't a better alternative I might have missed.

u/not-a-sound · 2 pointsr/Reaper

This is the one I was talking about, still has 3 knobs+fader and a bunch of toggles for mute/solo/bypass fx etc. as you wish.

The novation lets you remap something like 10+ profiles to any midi CC you want, and then you can switch the profile by just hitting up or down on the novation. So what you could do is, let's say we have Knob A, B, and C on track 1:

profile 1
A=EQ, B=comp, C=pan...all for track 1. Or you could be wacky and assign A=EQ for track 1, B=EQ for track 50, C=comp for track 9...it's all up to how you make your assignments.

hit the up button to go to next profile
A=EQ, B=comp, C=pan...for track 9, or 10, or whatever.

Alternatively, you could make it like A=EQ lows, B=EQ mids, C=EQ highs for track 1, then hitting next profile switches ABC to A=comp threshold, B=comp ratio, C=comp attack for track 1, etc.

Really, because you're mapping them yourself, you can mostly "do anything" but it takes a minute to plan out and set up the logistics. You can decide on a workflow you like, and then go from there. Be warned that you'll want to save presets for ReaEQ, ReaComp, etc. for each instance of the plugin that uses different midi CC mappings...eg save ReaEQ presets as default1 w/ your track1 mappings, default2 w/ your track2 settings, etc. if you want to easily take them between projects, I think.

There might be a better way, again I haven't done much experimenting with it, mostly just ad-hoc assignments. But I can certainly test a couple things out if you're looking for something specific. Cheers!

u/bobel2007 · 2 pointsr/ZReviews
u/jackdriper · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I think it's the disproportionate amount your willing to spend on relatively unimportant parts of your systems. You have $150 speakers, but are willing to spend $600 on a preamp for volume control, and another $600 on a DAC. You have $200 headphones and want to power them with $600 in amplification. None of those make any sense.

Get an ODAC ($99) and an passive volume controller like this ($33), or get the Schiit Loki which does both ($149). Now with the $1650 of your budget you have remaining, buy nicer headphones like the HiFi Man HE-500 ($599) and an amp to power them, like the Schiit Valhalla ($349). Pocket the remaining $700 or spend it on nicer speakers as well.

The actual speakers and headphones are the single most important part of any system. Spend your money on them.

u/thigh_gaap · 2 pointsr/edmproduction

Well, first of all mixing and mastering are two separate steps and require different tools.

  1. Using hardware to mix requires a mixer. 2. Using hardware to master requires different racks (eq, comp, rev etc).

    If you just want to use knobs to control the mix within ableton, you can always just get a nice midi controller with motorized faders something along the lines of this.

u/aysindeton · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Behringer Xtouch - sorry I didn't mention it earlier!

Link is here.

There's also a slightly smaller one and an even smaller one, which might be perfect for your needs. They're $599, $399 and $59 each.

u/inverse_squared · 2 pointsr/Lightroom
u/electro_potato · 2 pointsr/audiophile

You can use one of these and 2 RCA cables, but you'll have to control volume on the PC. If you want inline volume control you can use something like this or this.

u/normal-human · 2 pointsr/Beatmatch

What about a dedicated Ableton controller?

You can also map pads and faders to Traktor controls.

u/sharkamino · 2 pointsr/vinyl

For studio monitors, a studio monitor controller.

u/JohnBooty · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Performance-wise, all-in-one speakers are a fine way to go. When done right (and I have zero doubts KEF does it right) you get amps matched precisely to the drivers and no fuss. And things stay nice and minimalist.

Price-wise, I have some questions about the value proposition.

> lack of subwoofer connection option.

Annoying, though you can work around it if you use the analog connection and have a volume control upstream.

(source) --> (volume control like the Schiit SYS, Emotiva Control Freak, or oooh! I found a white one for you!) --> RCA splitter --> (subwoofer and KEFs)

> what would you guys recommend

I have not personally heard any of these. But...

  • Well, those KEF Uni-Q drivers are kind of magical, I wouldn't rule that out if the workaround above is acceptable
  • JBL LSR305 is available in white and is self-powered for about $300-$400 a pair. They are the unrivaled sound quality leader. If you add the matching LSR310 sub my hunch is that this would outperform everything else, and would cost less than the KEFs alone.
  • Kanto makes a lot of great looking speakers in white + other colors, including ones w/ all the features of the KEFs plus sub outputs.

    I personally would not care if the speakers had integrated wireless stuff. I would vastly prefer to simply feed them audio through a Chromecast or Apple Airport Express. The latter can be had for like $20 on eBay and offers full lossless streaming.
u/dcurry431 · 2 pointsr/vjing

I've had an APC40 for years and I love mine to death, but that's my biggest gripe with it too. Keep an eye out for deals on the APC40 Mk II, it's layout is a little different and would probably necessitate some workflow changes, but it's USB-powered.

u/dreamsaremaps · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Is this with the input trim on the rear of the speakers all the way down as well? The first thing i do when i fresh install MacOS/get a new Apple is disable all system wide sounds and notifications. If that’s viable for you, that’s a good start.

I haven’t been able to use keyboard volume keys in 15+ years; my suggestion is to either get an interface with an analog volume control or even better, a passive volume attenuator. Like the nano patch or something.

JBL NPATCH BLK Nano Patch+ Compact 2-Channel Passive Volume Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I3B0OH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QbczCbZG1B7VB

With digital volume/usb speakers I believe you’re throwing out available bit depth and at lower volumes, so you’ll get poor quality. I used to run my monitors and audio output at full ‘normal’ volume with one of those in between. Plus if all of a sudden shit gets super loud; there’s no faster way to turn it down than a single big knob right in front of you. My interface now handles everything for me but if I’m understanding things those are my suggestions: kill random sound fx, get a passive (no electricity required) attenuator (big ole volume knob to be able to easily change the volume to wherever you want it at any time), and use TRS instead of USB if that’s being problematic (required to use an attenuator; won’t work with usb speakers...)

What happens if you just output the 3.5mm stereo headphone jack from the computer into a splitter/adapters (likely 3.5mm to stereo RCA with RCA to 1/4” adapters unless you buy a 3.5km to dual 1/4” cable) into the TRS inputs on the speaker? That should retain volume key control and along with the speaker trim settings, I dunno what could be going wrong.

u/BeardedAlbatross · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I'd say save a bit of money from the nanopatch+ and just pick up this fostex knob.

The DAC portion of the E10K is perfectly fine for pretty much any setup you can buy. Modern Dacs are the strongest part of the playback chain by far, with amps coming in second. The only question is does the E10K pump out a strong enough signal to be able to saturate the amps in the sub and speakers. I'm not sure about that part, but I would suspect it's fine, you might just need to run the amps at a bit of a higher gain than you would from something like a Lexicon Alpha for example. Yeah, also consider the Lexicon Alpha. It's a USB DAC that offers a pretty high-gain balanced pre-amp volume control for under $50.

The "noise" caused by unbalanced signals shouldn't be a problem. It's used in studio environments for long cable runs and the fact that there is tons of equipment so keeping noise down is really important. The significant part you need to worry about is the gain structure. Gear made to receive balanced inputs normally wants a "hotter" signal since line level unbalanced is normally a weaker signal in consumer gear.

u/1Maple · 2 pointsr/postprocessing

Honestly most are, you can even buy a controller that was made to be used for audio, and program it for lightroom.

This is a pretty good one, but there are a lot of others that will be also good.

u/deplorable-d00d · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

yeah, a DJ mixer.

You can find them used for cheap at yard sales and craigslist. The preamps may even be better than the built in AT one.

Barring that, use the line out and simply get a mini desk mixer from Mackie like the Mackie Mix5:

u/smirkword · 2 pointsr/midi

A good piano software VST will be somewhat demanding, so a Raspberry PI or Intel NUC will probably not provide optimal latency/polyphony without clipping.

​

I was in a similar situation -- good action, bad onboard sounds. My solution was to use Pianoteq on an older Macbook Pro (total cost: $600) and I can produce sounds that I like, with roundtrip latency around 3ms. I shopped for a used Macbook with a damaged screen, so that my dollars could go toward my ears instead of my eyes. A hardware MIDI module beats the latency problems, but you'll have to pay quite a bit to get a decent piano sound, and the UI will likely be annoying. They make modules that will technically fulfill your requirements for under $100 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E5GGKE4/) but they don't sound great, or you could spend ten or twenty times that, and get a full-featured rack module (https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-Motif-Mount-Sound-Module/dp/B0019X08CM/).

u/applevinegar · 2 pointsr/audiophile

A chromecast audio is all you need for spotify.

Those are pretty good. To power them you'd need an amplifier, but for hip-hop, I'm sure some day you'll want to add a subwoofer, which would kinda force you to get a multichannel amp now (stereo amplifiers aren't able to divide the frequencies correctly between sub and speakers) and a beefy multichannel amp is going to cost you $400: if that's within your budget, then go for it. It's certainly the most convenient solution because an AV receiver allows you to connect anything you might get in the future: consoles, bluray players, chromecast video, turntable (for that you'll need a phono preamp though).

Otherwise I would recommend you something entirely different: 2x JBL LSR308s or Emotiva Airmotiv 6s: they go deeper than those B&Ws with a still great sound quality; and they're powered speakers, which means each has built in amplifiers, requiring no additional gear other than a volume controller for convenience. You would hook up the chromecast to the volume controller with the bundled 3.5mm cable and then run a pair of RCA to 6.3mm TS cables to the speakers, one for each. Done.

For the turntable, you'll eventually get a phono preamp with a switch and multiple inputs like this (but if I were you, I'd stick to digital music unless you inherit a collection).

With these a subwoofer would be less important (because again, they go deeper by themselves), but I'm sure you'd add one eventually: in that case you'd just have to make sure that the sub has high-pass filtered outputs (SVS subs do, for example, and they're good - a high pass filter ensures that the main speakers aren't goint to reproduce the same frequencies of the sub, improving their performance and eliminating the unwanted overlap) so that you could add it to the chain with ease (between volume controller and speakers).

u/sawasawa12 · 2 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

Alternatively, for anyone that wants a cheap alternative for Lightroom editing and likes knobs/dials should just get this:

https://www.amazon.ca/BEHRINGER-USB-Controller-Black-XTOUCHMINI/dp/B012CSKTYY

And then program it with MIDI2LR. I'm currently using these two for my editing setup and they work extremely well. I would rather buy this midi controller than pay $200+ for a Craft or Loupedeck.

u/19eddiedean19 · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Yea, I don't have it yet but plan on buying this [active speaker kit](JBL ACTPACK Active Studio Monitor Enhancement Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I1DGYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AurUAbTBTTHKG)
Its a pain to reach behind to adjust the volume on each speaker but you don't do it as often as you'd think. This is more to encourage the wife to use the system easier.

Unless you don't think the cable is going to reach you should be able to plug the turntable straight into the switch I believe.

I used these [ cables ] (Hosa CPR-202 Dual 1/4 inch TS to Dual RCA Stereo Interconnect Cable, 6.6 feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O17/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JyrUAbKADDQYB) to connect the switch output to each of the speakers

And you would need [this cable](AmazonBasics 3.5mm to 2-Male RCA Adapter Cable - 8 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8ArUAbK3ZZJAT) for the Chromecast.

u/211logos · 2 pointsr/Lightroom

It's on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-X-TOUCH-MINI-BEHRINGER/dp/B013JLZCLS, at least in US. $49.

And see the youtube link I put my other comment here for a video showing it in use.

u/mdrsharp · 2 pointsr/keys

With such a low budget your options are a bit limited but you can still do some great stuff.

Option 1: You require an iPad and a MIDI cable (something like this one) for $20 and purchase apps like Roland Sound Canvas or Korg M1, Waldorf, Moog.

Option 2: Search your local Craigslist for the following items, Kurzweil K2000, Korg 03RW, Korg X5D, Korg X5DR, Roland Sound Canvas, Korg M1R, Korg 01W Rack, Emu Proteus. All of these synthesizers make a wide range of sounds and are very good quality machines.

You also may want to ask your facebook friends if they have an old synthesizer sitting around collecting dust that they'd like to part with.

u/Skitch_n_Sketch · 2 pointsr/audiophile

The Starter set just includes volume control, cables, and isolation pads if you're putting the speakers right on your desk. It's definitely not necessary, just an easy all in one package.

Advantage of volume control is self explanatory, windows volume control isn't always perfect and having something physical to control volume is simply nicer. There's a lot of products that can do this, some with more features than others. I'll link a couple in different prices brackets.

u/MoogleMan3 · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

To go direct to your PC, a 3.5mm to dual ts cable would work. You'd have to control volume either from the back of each speaker or via windows.

To have a hardware volume knob, get something like the jbl nano patch. For that you'd need two xlr cables and a regular 3.5mm stereo audio cable.

u/gonekrazy3000 · 2 pointsr/ableton

i got my Push2 + Ableton 10 bundle for 719$ in India from Amazon.in around 9 months ago. I got it for basically 55%+ off its regular price for a sealed box so its not impossible to get it at that price. Infact i can see it for 907 Usd right now on Amazon:- https://www.amazon.in/Ableton-Push-Live-Suite-Bundle/dp/B01M1DW7IP/ref=sr_1_1?crid=28YJ9YV118VIT&keywords=ableton+push+2&qid=1555518092&s=gateway&sprefix=ableton+push%2Caps%2C266&sr=8-1

u/HlCKELPICKLE · 1 pointr/makinghiphop

Yeah, those are kinda high-tier and more for providing a hardware like alternative to the faders and transport controls for daw users.

You could get by with something simpler like the Novation launch Control

There a cheaper smaller version too,also as mentioned above the apc40 is pretty nice too, but might be over kill if you just need to assign some knobs to your eq.



u/Wh0rse · 1 pointr/WeAreTheMusicMakers
u/Arve · 1 pointr/audiophile

At a minimum: A 3.5mm TRS to dual 6.3mm TS cable, but you'd then rely on controlling volume from the computer, like this.

If you want a physical volume knob, you can in addition get the JBL Active Starter Pack.

u/filmatisk · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

I'm guessing he has powered speakers, so need an RCA pre-out for those. And then maybe a "tape out" or "rec out" or whatever they call it for a headphone amplifier. Plenty of AV receivers can do this, so that may be an easy fix.

Or maybe something like the Mackie Big Knob Studio would be a more elegant solution?

u/hikingmutherfucker · 1 pointr/audiophile

Look at the proposed systems above both are small enough to fit on a desktop and are fairly cheap as well.

to quote: "

In an effort to cut down on some of the repetitive questions, here are the absolutely cheapest systems we are willing to recommend.

  • $110: Micca PB42X
  • $250: JBL 305P MkII

    Accessories

    For the JBL-based setup, here are some accessories if you want to connect the speakers directly to a computer without an external DAC:

  • 3.5mm TRS to 6.3mm TS cable - use this if you're connecting the LSR305 directly to a computer
  • JBL Active Speaker Starter Set - includes the Nano Patch+ volume controller, two isolation pads and TRS to XLR cable. Use this if you want a physical volume controller to go along with the JBL speakers.

    For the Micca setups, you'll need this to connect directly to a computer:

  • 3.5mm TRS to RCA - use this for connecting (either of) the Micca alternatives directly to a computer.

    If you're going for the Micca MB42X + SMSL solution, you'll also need speaker wire:

  • AmazonBasics 16 AWG speaker wire "
u/MrTubby1 · 1 pointr/audiophile

Is it better to get an all-in-one desktop solution or a more expensive modular desktop solution?
Right now I just want really good speakers for my desktop. I've been hardset on the Vanatoo T0's, which include bluetooth, usb, optical, and aux in. They're pretty much everything I need in one amazing package.

But on the other hand, I've been looking at near-field studio monitors like the JBL 305P, the Mackie MR524 and audio interfaces like the Mackie Big Knob and other DAC's. The big knob also has an input for a microphone which I might want to use for high-quality recording.

Then there's also buying a desktop amp like the SMSL AD18 paired with an actual pair of speakers.

Both the modularity and upgradability appeal to me, but the compactness of the vanatoo's is also so nice.


Any thoughts?

u/tmgho · 1 pointr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

I guess you mean something like this

u/dr_torque · 1 pointr/audiophile

A dac/pre would be ideal but that would take you over budget. This was the cheapest I could find. Something like this or this can help with volume control though.

u/uglyfool · 1 pointr/headphones

I use one of these with my desktop speakers, Fostex PC-1e.

http://www.amazon.com/Controller-Fostex-Pc-1e-White/dp/B0058B1T4M/

Should also be available in an all black model.

u/reidwards · 1 pointr/bapcsalescanada

Just as an FYI, these are one of the most frequently recommended speakers for the price and at sub $150/speaker this deal is excellent. If you want some other accessories for these, this starter kit is also recommended over on r/audiophile (Canadian Amazon link)

u/deuteranope · 1 pointr/editors

Would the Behringer X-Touch Extender work for what I'm looking for, including motorized sliders, and be compatible with Premiere?

u/Padta · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

So with these speakers the volume control knob is on the back. If you want a physical volume button that you can easily reach, this is your best bet. https://smile.amazon.com/JBL-ACTPACK-Active-Speaker-Starter/dp/B01I1DGYDE

u/one_why · 1 pointr/videos

>You're paying for your own hardware? Dongles are a minute cost for your average tech company.

Because I own the consultancy, yes I buy the hardware that I work on.

>Apple's phone connection is proprietary. For each piece of new hardware you've bought, I can probably find a viable alternative that uses USB-C. Also, I think you're confusing USB-B with USB-A.

USB-A is the flat connector. USB-B is the "D" shaped one? Did I typo something?

https://www.enttec.com/product/controls/dmx-usb-interfaces/dmx-usb-interface/

https://smile.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B01E6T56EA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Focusrite+scarlett+2i2&qid=1557347644&s=gateway&sr=8-3

https://smile.amazon.com/Ableton-Push-Controller-Instrument-87565/dp/B01M1DW7IP?sa-no-redirect=1

This is just "new" hardware that I look at. There are obviously lots of old hardware debuggers and things from people like atmel or microchip which are definitely not using USB-C.

>What are you considering a power user, because I use mine professionally, and it hasn't been that big of an issue. I already use an HDMI dongle that includes an A port, for the rare occurrence where I must have it.

I build hardware, so that means my laptop is moving around between desks, workbenches, sitting on the edge of cars, sitting inside of prototypes, etc. I know lots of guys doing IoT that are the same. Also lots of musicians, lighting designers, photographers, DJs, etc. all using MBPs and all holding onto their old ones with USB ports for dear life.

>I'm curious, do you use one professionally, or is all this second hand?

I am currently typing this on a ~1.5 year old MBP. I am sitting at my desk in my office.

u/TheErickCujo · 1 pointr/musicproduction

https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-BIG-KNOB-STUDIO-PLUS/dp/B01N21DGR2

I know it's not the common Focusrite Scarlett, but this can do the job, right?

I just really want to make sure I'm not going to make avoidable mistakes.

u/HeadphoneBill · 1 pointr/audiophile

Hey everybody!
I'm going to get myself a pair of JBL LSR305. I already have a Fiio E10K which is connected to my Macbook and to my Beyerdynamics DT 990 Pro.

I would use the rear line out from my Fiio to connect to the active speakers. One downside is that I can't control the volume of the speakers on the Fiio (the volume knob is for the headphones only), so I would have to use the volume knob on the backside of the speakers or change the system volume on my Mac. Both of these options suck. I was researching a bit and found the Palmer Monicon. To my understanding I can just hook it up between my Fiio and the speakers. Now i could control the speaker volume easily. I would use a normal 3.5mm cable (or should I use the coaxial output?) from my Fiio into the stereo input of the Palmer Monicon and two XLR cables from the Palmer Monicon to my speakers.

Will this work? Will there be any sound quality issues? Is the JBL Nano Patch better because I could use 1/4" TRS cables at the output..? Is there a quality difference between XLR and TRS?

u/AlwaysSaysYes · 1 pointr/makinghiphop

Firstly, you should watch some videos of people using different gear and giving it reviews to see if it fits what you want.

I'm not sure why you would want a mixer unless you had a lot of physical instruments and/or mics that you need record at the same time. If you really want some sliders there are things like MPDs or APCs. I can't play the piano, so I don't mind having a little keyboard. I like the keystation mini 32, because it has a lot of keys, but it is very small.

There are more simple pads like the Korg padKontrol.

If you really want an abelton specific controller consider getting the push. It's expensive though.

As I said, look up videos of everything.

u/PriceKnight · 1 pointr/bapcsalescanada

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u/beyonddevnull · 1 pointr/audiophile

Looking to control my office setup's volume with an external knob. Need to see if my thought on this will work:

  • PC's internal sound card
  • 3.5mm -> 3.5mm (going to the in on)
  • JBL Nanopatch
  • 3.5mm -> RCA (going out of the Nano patch and into the Sub)
  • Emotiva Audio BasX 10" sub
  • RCA to 1/4" TRS (going out from the sub and into the 305's)
  • JBL LSR305's

    or is there a better way I should be going about controlling the setup (like with a separate controls for the base and monitors)? Thank you!
u/LightOfYourLife765 · 1 pointr/lightingdesign

I am an avid ChamSys user and love their hardware paired with their gear. That being said, you can buy a midi controller (https://www.amazon.com/Akai-Professional-APC-controller-Clip-Launch/dp/B00J3ZCVCS/ref=sr_1_23?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1520798730&sr=1-23&keywords=midi+controller) and use midi decoding software to get some physical buttons. There are codes in the ChamSys manual for triggering things on these types of controllers. Check out some of Luke Stratton's designs based on the MAonPC software and using midi pads like the one in my link. There are forums online that help with midi coding and decoding for ChamSys.

u/ThisIsMissionControl · 1 pointr/lightingdesign

This one here. The faders and knobs respond the same way in Lightkey which gives me a lot to work with.

u/Reddit1396 · 1 pointr/synthesizers

> iOS midi interface

would this interface work? It says it's on sale at $19 but I'm not sure if it's just Amazon trickery.

Are iPad Airs better than regular iPads? Sorry, I'm way behind when it comes to this. I looked them up on the Apple online store and they seem to be discontinued. They're still on Best Buy's online store though.

u/der_andi · 1 pointr/audioengineering

your alesis m1 actives should also have normal inputs.

you'll need something like this

http://www.amazon.com/SM-Pro-Audio-M-Patch-Passive/dp/B00113LUTA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1375754966&sr=8-1&keywords=SM+Pro+Audio+M-Patch+2

connect your scarlett 2i2 and both speakerpairs to the controller so you can switch between them

u/jaggamuffin · 1 pointr/synthesizers

This is what I use. It's cheap and it works. Someone here recommended it. Thanks whoever you are!

Has anyone had any luck with the adapter OP tried? I bought one ages ago, totally useless.

u/Yarik85 · 1 pointr/WeddingPhotography

Yep, I don't do photography professionally, but I always hated that post processing took so long, and how my arm/wrist would start to cramp up after a while. I can game all day and nothing, but after an hour of editing, and my arm and wrist start to hurt from the tension of moving them sliders and stuff.

You can go the easy way of a Loupedeck, it's more expensive, but already all setup. I didn't get a Loupedeck, because from the research that I did about it, a few too many people complained about it's build quality (warped board where not every corner is sitting on the desk, the buttons and knobs feeling cheap, both material and function).

So I ended up picking up the next best choice (again this is from personal research) a few months back, and it was the BEHRINGER USB Controller XTOUCHMINI off of Amazon for 60$.

There were other options, usually more expensive, with more knobs and more buttons, and some sliders, but this one was the most often chosen one by people.

If you go this way, you'd have to do a bit of work setting it up (either download someone's profile presets, or very easily make your own preset for every knob and button), and then make your own labels for everything, but it works great after.

u/Betucker · 1 pointr/audiophile

So I'm looking at getting the JBL recommendation and want to make sure I would be ordering the correct things.

Speakers (2): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUKP37C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A25IRTXJ3Y3DFH&psc=1

JBL Active Speaker Set (1):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I1DGYDE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A25IRTXJ3Y3DFH&psc=1

Thank you and I look forward to a response!

u/keleka11 · 1 pointr/audiophile

Is there anything a bit more simple? Something like this but bigger? Would like the knob around the size of a palm