Best digital calipers according to redditors

We found 332 Reddit comments discussing the best digital calipers. We ranked the 86 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Digital Calipers:

u/WesbroBaptstBarNGril · 33 pointsr/reloading

He needs, yes. The Lee Challenger kit is around $99 on Amazon, and that has everything he'll need to get started except for: Bullets, Primers, Powder and Brass and DIES for 7.62x54r (another $30-$40)

Now, he'll want a digital scale, a case trimmer, and a tumbler to get his brass clean and pretty. That all can be added on, and most likely, be purchased in addition to the press kit for about $200.

Here's a list of things he'll want:

Lee Challenger Reloading Kit
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ISVWC6/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hornady Reloading Manual (So he doesn’t blow himself up)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MAUZ71V/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Calipers (So he doesn’t blow his gun up)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000GSLKIW/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

7.62x54r Reloading Dies
https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-7-62X54R-Pacesetter-Dies/dp/B00162UGUK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511562718&sr=8-1&keywords=7.62x54r+dies

Frankford Arsenal Quick-n-EZ Case Tumbler (To make clean-shiny brass)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001MYGLJC/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Case Tumbling Media
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000OQRGF2/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

RCBS Universal Case Loading Block
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013RA5DQ/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hornady One-Shot Case Lube https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0001NA29U/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Guardians of the Galaxy Soundtrack (Because listening to good music scientifically makes better bullets)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LICGSFU/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8

u/belk92 · 24 pointsr/Machinists

The perfect micrometer for mechanic work is a Mitutoyo digital caliper. Link.

If his mechanic work truly requires the precision of a micrometer, you should buy him a mechanical micrometer where the entire thimble is a ratchet. Link.

If your mechanic boyfriend is actually a machinist, you should buy him this. Link. Be careful with this one though... he may take a knee and propose to you on the spot.

I just picked out the first link to the product I'm describing. There may or may not be cheaper options out there.

Best of luck! You're awesome for deciding to buy him a tool he will use.

u/theawesomeone · 22 pointsr/engineering

Mitutoyo is absolutely the best, but just in case you want to pickup a few calipers that are very near the same quality at budget pricing, I can highly recommend: iGaging ABSOLUTE ORIGIN 0-6" Digital Electronic Caliper - IP54 Protection / Extreme Accuracy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00INL0BTS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_02MAyb2RWWRKM

I have purchased several of these for our engineering department and they are leaps and bounds better than other cheap units. The sliding action is smooth with no slop. The display updates very quickly. Accuracy and repeatability have been tested to be comparable to the Mitutoyos.

u/wildjokers · 16 pointsr/functionalprint

Get yourself a pair of these (if you don't already):

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Stainless/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=calipers&qid=1565281175&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Then you just measure and model. Look at the basic shape first and model the basic shape. Then add (and subtract) as necessary.

I find using OpenSCAD a little easier for duplicating a real world part because you can use variables and fine tune with variable values rather than having to redraw something. (in OpenSCAD you write code instead of click-to-draw).

3D scanning would also be an option if you have that setup (been meaning to print a 3d scanning rig...couple of good options on thingiverse)

u/nexusgx · 11 pointsr/functionalprint

I cant' speak for other people, but in my case, I have an interest in building and making things outside of work, so I have invested time into learning how to use Fusion 360, and also purchased calipers (specifically this one) to get accurate measurements.

For this particular model, I had the broken part, and could measure everything using the pieces I had and the calipers. Using those measurements I could use Fusion 360 to model the part.

If you want to get started with making your own things, I would suggest first learning a program like Fusion. Tinkercad is a great starting point for people with no 3D modeling experience because it's free and is easier than a CAD program. Once you are comfortable with that, I would start tinkering with Fusion 360. Maker's Muse has a playlist that was helpful for me.

From there, it's whatever you think of to create.

u/doggiemoto · 10 pointsr/motorcycles

You actually just graduated a level in motorcycle maintenance. You can replace your own chains with a chain breaker/pin set kit and a digital micrometer.
High quality chains like D.I.D. are a good idea, and the instructions will be clear regarding the spread/flare measurement on the pin.
If you do this, lube the threads on the extractor with a little lithium.
You will also typically want to replace both sprockets with the chain.

u/internetmouthpiece · 7 pointsr/engineering

It's $160, but this has been the best I've used for reliability and precision, and I suspect anything sub-50 will be mostly garbage if you don't want springy/unreliable calipers.

Edit: Amazon link for $115

u/OpticalNecessity · 6 pointsr/3Dprinting

I will give you my background before my opinions. As everyone has different goals, opinions, and experiences.

I got my printer near the end March of this year. I have something like 2500m of filament run though it, and no idea how much print time.

When I received my printer, my test prints failed and I was pissed. But this community helped improve my Cura settings and started producing usable parts. I then went nuts and printed out a BUNCH of mods. This is by far my most favorite thing. There's always something I can print to improve the quality of the prints.

THe down side is I went too far and got to a point where I couldn't produce anything of quality. So, 2 weeks of tweeking and researching later I'm printing in PETG with beautiful quality and very minimal visible layers.

My most recent project in PETG:
http://i.imgur.com/sVf7S2D.jpg?1

So, now to answer your question...

> How do you like your Maker Select?

I love it. It allowed me to buy a cheaper printer (One of the cheapest at the time @ $350) that produced amazing results. It also has upgrades you can purchase or print to improve the quality, so investing smaller amounts over time to make it better and better. I highly recommend it to anyone who is starting because it does require tweaking which forces you to learn and understand how exactly 3d printers work. A major plus was that this community has a lot of Maker Select users for support, which was a MAJOR plus for me.


As of today, I've purchased the following upgrades:

  • IKEA enclosure - $115
  • LEDs for Inside enclosure - $25
  • MK-9/10 Extruder Gear - $9
  • Micro Swiss All Metal hot End - $50
  • Micro Swiss Lever - $18 (Totally not necessary, but Micro Swiss's support was AMAZING to deal with, and I wanted to support them so I purchased this as well.
  • Misc. M3 and M4 Screws, etc. - ~$25 in total between Amazon Orders and Lowe's for things needed for mods.
  • New 40mm fan because I broke the blade on the one I had. There are cheaper ones than this. - $14
  • 50mm blower fan - $8

    So, in the last ~3 months I've spent an additional $264... Oh god, don't tell my wife! All are totally not necessary, mind you. The only thing I'd 100% recommend you do are print out the following to mods:

    DiiiCooler along with buying the 50mm blower fan. There are cheaper options out there, I just wanted it faster so I bought it through Amazon to get free 2 day shipping.

    z-Brace - This is key, and will run you maybe $15 worst case scenario to get enough M4 screws and the threaded rods.

    Edit: Forgot a couple more things I bought.

  • Lowe's glass - $4 for 2 pieces of 7.9"x7.9" glass
  • Borosilicate Glass - $12 - Amazing adheasing with PLA and ABS. Don't use it right now, though because I'm printing in PETG and I read on here that PETG eats borosilicate glass.
  • Lithium Grease - $7. When I changed my bearing blocks, I had issues with sticking so I purchased some of this to help smoothing out the bearing movement on the polished rods.
  • 3D print removal tool - $5. Printer comes with a larger scraper, but I needed something a bit more fine (thin) and this thing is perfect.
  • Spare bearings - $13 because I broke one of them when swapping to 3d Printed bearing blocks.
  • Digital Calipers - $18

    That's another $59, so $323... I have a problem. again, 95% of this is NOT NECESSARY. I'm just addicted to modding.
u/DFrostedWangsAccount · 6 pointsr/3Dprinting

You can be assembled and printing with the included tools in about half an hour, with no prior 3D printer experience. That's not a problem.

Actually getting the most out of the printer though, that depends on what you want to use it for.

I use it for making functional prints, replacement parts, and sometimes cool trinkets. I am not an artist, if you want to model and print sculptures, good luck. I haven't a clue.

If you're like me and want to make what I make, here's a list of things you should get:

  • Calipers. Measuring is so important. I have these.
  • M3 nuts/bolts. Possibly also M4 and M5 depending on what you're putting together. I bought this.
  • Nylon locknuts. They won't shake loose over time, good for making thumbscrews with. My choice.

    Things you should print:

  • Z-braces.
  • DiiiCooler
  • Thumbscrews, there are loads of M3 nyloc-insert thumbscrew designs on thingiverse, pick one you like the look of. The ones that came with the printer sucked though, and nylocs are great.

    Things you should download:

  • Get the latest Cura, I think it might still be in beta. Don't use the version it comes with, you'll be missing out.
  • Fusion 360. It's free for hobbyists and businesses making under 100k/yr. Learn to use it.
  • Not a download, but try some Tinkercad tutorials and see what you think of that. It's more of a "light" software than Fusion is, meant for children, but both have their place and have slightly different features, despite being made by the same people. Sometimes Tinkercad is easier to use than Fusion for a certain task, most of the time it's the other way around for me though.

    While I'm making suggestions, I'd say you should get some PLA and PETG to start with, ignore ABS entirely. It's slightly cheaper per kilogram, but there are toxic fumes to worry about and it really needs an enclosure to print (well).

    PLA is cheap enough, but doesn't flex as much as ABS so it's better for different applications. PETG is like the best parts of PLA and ABS, but you have to print at lower speeds.

    I print at 45mm/s, 5 second minimum layer time using both PLA and PETG and it works perfectly. 210C/60C for PLA and 250/70 for PETG.

    If you have any questions, you know where to find me. :)
u/versatile_solutions · 6 pointsr/3Dprinting

I picked up this digital caliper from Amazon about 3 years ago, indispensable for this sort of thing. Make sure you measure in several places around the filament and average. Filament is rarely round.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PTGBR6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/xc0z · 6 pointsr/CherokeeXJ

Alright... ignoring the fact that your asking how to install gears implies heavily that you don't know the first step... OR the first thing. Here's the basic run down. I'm not going to go into detail on torque specs, or specific procedure... i'd be here all night on a how-to that most people don't give two shits about. I'm also doing this ONLY for the 8.25. DANA 44's are too rare in stock, and DANA 35's don't deserve to be rebuilt.

Tools needed:

  1. Bearing race set tool: http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-bearing-race-and-seal-driver-set-95853.html
  2. Clamshell Bearing puller: http://www.amazon.com/G2-Axle-Gear-80-BRGPLLR-Clamshell/dp/B004PHV7DI
  3. Micrometer: http://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools-Caliper-Electronic-Micrometer/dp/B006Y1OWKS
  4. Backlash Indicator: http://www.amazon.com/Allstar-ALL96414-0-001-Increment-Indicator/dp/B006K8WANQ
  5. Torque Wrench: http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24335-2-Inch-Torque-10-150-Foot/dp/B00C5ZL0RU
  6. 12 ton shop press: http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-shop-press-33497.html
  7. Cold Chisel: http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6738-Chisel-Punch-12-Piece/dp/B000NPR3IO
  8. Magnet on a stick
  9. Needle nose pliers, or whatever pliers will fit
  10. 3-5lb Maul

    Parts needed:
  11. The gears. duh
  12. Master rebuild kit with TIMKEN bearings.
  13. Gear oil.
  14. Marking compound, if the rebuild kit doesn't come with it... If it doesn't, you bought a cheap kit. shame. SHAME.^SHAME.^SHAME.

    On a 8.25...
  15. Pull diff cover.
  16. Pull pinion yoke nut.
  17. Remove center pin bolt, and pull center pin from carrier.
  18. Push Axle shafts in to the center housing.
  19. Look for the little C clip inside the carrier. Use you stick magnet to pull them out. Repeat for the other axle.
  20. Pull axle shafts out of both sides.
  21. Use your cold chisel to put a mark on the left bearing cap ridge. make one mark. make one mark on the left side housing as well. Make two marks on the right side bearing cap. Make two marks on the right side housing as well. PAY ATTENTION WHEN REASSEMBLING. Bearing caps are side specific, and switching them can result in early bearing failure. Set bearing caps and bearing cap bolts in a clean area.
  22. Pull out main carrier.
  23. Put carrier in a vise, and with your torque wrench, remove the bolts holding the ring gear in place. tap the ring gear evenly around the sides to remove.
  24. Use the Clamshell bearing puller to pull the bearings off the carrier.
  25. Use the shop press to install the new bearings on the carrier.
  26. Put the new ring gear on the carrier. Push it on lightly with your hands, install 2-4 bolts to hold it in place. Count the turns as the bolts catch. install the rest of the bolts with the same amount of turns. Tighten all bolts in a star pattern in even increments to 40 ft/lbs. then to 60 ft/lbs. then finally 80 ft/lbs.
  27. Pull the pinion yoke if you haven't already. pull the pinion. if it doesn't come out, hit it with a hammer. use some wood if you plan on saving the gear set for whatever reason.
  28. Use cold punch to remove bearing races from the rear of the housing. don't fuck up the housing mating surface, or it'll leak no matter how many times you replace the pinion seal.
  29. Install the new bearing races with the bearing race set tool and your maul.
  30. Install the bearing on the pinion.
  31. Measure the old shims with your micrometer. Install the same thickness shims in the pinion to start.
  32. Place the pinion in the housing. New bearing should be in place on the pinion and in the housing at this point. IF not, you need to learn to read.
  33. Measure the thickness of the carrier bearings. Place new bearings of the same thickness to start.
  34. Place carrier, bearing outer races and shims in all at once.
  35. Put old crush sleeve and old bearing on the new pinion. A die grinder to grind out some of the inner old bearing race makes a good setup bearing. tighten the pinion nut.
  36. Place marking compound on 5 ring gear teeth, both sides.
  37. Spin the carrier to determine pattern. consult pattern guide included with your kit. you kit didn't come with a guide? shoulda bought Yukon gears.
  38. If you pattern isn't conforming to the guide, add or remove shims from the pinion or carrier.
  39. Once you think you have a good pattern, setup the dial indicator and measure backlash. Ideal is .8-.12 thousandths. if you're in the .12 or above, or .8 or below, add or remove shims to move the pinion in or out, or the carrier left or right. this can require some time dedication.
  40. Once your happy with your gears, pull the carrier back out. Install new inner seals if you have them.
  41. Remove the old crush sleeve and place a new one. Torque to the recommended spec.
  42. Measure drag on the pinion with the torque wrench. should be ~8-10ft/lbs if i recall.
  43. Place carrier back in the housing.
  44. Replace carrier bearing caps and torque.
  45. Re-torque pinion nut.
  46. Replace axle shafts.
  47. Replace c-clips.
  48. Replace center pin and bolt.
  49. Replace cover. seal well. sitting overnight is ideal.
  50. Fill with 80w-90 gear oil.

    Go for a drive. If everything was done right, you should now have more power, and no rear end noise. if you do... you need to take the rear apart again, and reset the gears to clear the noise.

    I'm sure i forgot something, like thrust washers. Don't crucify me for it. If you want a REAL guide, you need to do more research.
u/CrewmemberV2 · 6 pointsr/engineering

https://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-Advanced-Absolute-Digital-Caliper/dp/B00IG46NL2/ref=dp_ob_title_def

Pretty much a staple in the engineering world.

I often have to check large amounts of Injection molded parts with 5-20 measurement point each. Usually each point 5-10 times to account for measuring errors. A quality digital caliper pays for itself in a day.

u/MountainDewFountain · 6 pointsr/AskEngineers

Unless your boyfriend is a machinist, go with the calipers all day long. Mic's are for very precise measurement of specific items and are much less versatile for everyday use. You'll notice that most micrometers will only measure 1 inch, so if you actually need to use them you will often you'll have a set of many mics that measure 0-1", 1-2", 2-3"... ect. Whereas calipers measure 0-6 inches and are much faster (but do sacrifice some accuracy).

So as for calipers, Mitutoyo's are pretty hot right now. This is the pair my wife bought me a few years ago and I couldn't be happier:

https://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-500-196-30-Advanced-Measuring-Resolution/dp/B00IG46NL2/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1550246576&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=mitutoyo+caliper&psc=1

If you want to shop around make sure that you get either a Mitutoyo, Brown and Sharpe, or Starrett brand.

u/sr_maxima · 5 pointsr/bikecommuting

> would be possible to put a set of bullhorns on my bike

Almost certainly yes. You might need a new stem.

> and still be able to use my current shifters/brakes.

Maybe. Measure the diameter of your existing bars where the shifters are mounted. The best tool to do this is a pair of measuring calipers, something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Extra-Large-SAE-Metric-Conversion/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414190268&sr=8-1&keywords=measuring+calipers

Handlebars come in only a few standard diameters, but really the best way to answer your question is to measure it empirically.

u/Lampwick · 5 pointsr/Locksmith

I still sort and reuse Medeco pins because they're so damned expensive. Get a digital or dial micrometer. Much faster than dropping them into a plug with depth keys. You should have a micrometer anyway. It's pretty much the number one best way to diagnose fiddly little problems with depth and spacing. It's invaluable for adjusting your key machines. I can get my Borkey duplicator down to sub .001 accuracy with one.

In the old days, a decent dial micrometer was expensive. Now, those digital ones are dirt cheap and perfectly serviceable. I bought the one I linked to above as a backup to my fancy Mitutoyo dial unit, and at $17 and change, I actually use it as my main one now because it was so cheap I'm not afraid of damaging it.

u/Shooter123456 · 5 pointsr/ar15

Start by reading the FAQ at /r/reloading. Make sure you have a look see at a reloading manual or two as well.

Bare minimum equipment you will need is:

Press

Dies for your caliber

Calipers

Scale

Lube

I started with a Lee Challenger kit which is $116 and has everything you will need, minus a set of calipers for about $25. I also got a digital scale and a tumbler. All in you will be about $200 or so to start pumping out rounds.

u/Weyoun2 · 5 pointsr/woodworking

DW735. Nice! I have the same model. Definitely look at swapping, or at least rotating the blades. I bought this Wixey Digital Gauge and love it. No more guessing at placement of the measuring arrow. Also, it's as loud and as powerful as a jet engine. Make sure you have dust collection and ear protection.

u/TheSwami · 4 pointsr/3Dprinting

Some of the less intuitive acccessories I've found helpful:

u/oldcrow · 4 pointsr/3Dprinting

Get a decent digital caliper and get good at measuring, model it yourself.

Here is the fun part though - printers shrink some dimensions and expand others based on temperature, extrusion, brand of filament and a hundred other variables.

I make parts that hold spring loaded Pogo pins than are about 1.6mm to 2mm in diameter.

For every design I print a test piece with the holes in various orientations to the build plate. I make each hole the correct size then some a little larger and some a little smaller. I create a profile for each part I print and save that.

When I get the test piece done, I check each hole for fit. Now I know that for part number XYZ123 on Brand-X PLA I need to make the vertical holes .05mm larger and horizontal holes .1 smaller.

It's a pain but it helps take some of the mystery out of sizing.

u/Enlightenment777 · 4 pointsr/ECE

-----

1A) Art of Electronics book (3rd edition)

  1. Digital Soldering Station

  1. Digital Caliper

    Comparison Review:

u/Nightowl3090 · 4 pointsr/ender3

Buying this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RD6D2ZQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


and buying this in order to properly calibrate e-steps: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AQEZ2W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


These two things took my prints from adequate to pristine. Huge improvement.

u/Oh_Herro_ · 4 pointsr/3Dprinting

Most cheap calipers are fine for measuring prints for accuracy. If you want to get something a little better than the cheapest but not spend too much, I'd recommend these. They're probably not more accurate than other digital calipers in the $20-$25 range, but the absolute origin feature makes them easier to use since you don't have to zero-out each time you use them.

u/Call_Me_Tex · 4 pointsr/3Dprinting

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00INL0BTS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_pLbZDbZK580M6

Had mine for about 2 years. It has been reliable and repeatable. I haven't put it on a calibration block set but everything I've used it for has fit together as expected.

u/therocketryan · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

Measure it with calipers.

If you don't have any, buy a pair.

Your flow rate does look high. I do 95%. I think that Simplify3D might even default to 90% for PLA. The stuff expands a lot.

u/ryios · 3 pointsr/ATV

Not an expert, but

I'd focus on the drive train issues first, get all those tires working, might be a lost cause before going any deeper, but others will have to help with that, I take that kind of stuff to my mechanic.

Brake pedal could be that it's low on brake fluid, or one of the brake calipers is stuck.

My quad has a foot brake like that and a hand brake, but the foot brake only brakes 1 tire. That tire has two brake calipers on it's roter, one to the foot break and one to the hand brake. So the hand brake is all 4 wheels, and the foot brake is 1 wheel. There is a master cylinder on my hand brake and another on my right rear tire (foot brake). If my foot brakes master cylinder runs low or springs a leak, my pedal goes through the floor like in your pic but I'll still have brakes on the hand brake. It's like a double/emergency braking system. If my hand brake goes out I can down shift (engine brake) and lay on that foot brake to brake and not hit a tree...
___

Fuel wise, it's likely carburetor being old. The carburetor should have a primer on it that injects gas into the carb when you press/pull it. Those generally have a diaphragm in them (rubber) that tends to go bad over time and cause a fuel leak.

If you can find a diagram of the carburetor that would help emensely.

Really though, you should take the whole carburetor off, take it apart and give it a bath in carb cleaner (no plastic/rubber in there) and clean all the jets out.

Also, they make rebuild kits for most carb's that come with all new jets, and pilot screw etc. See if you can find one. I typically just replace them all, easier and then I have spares.

Also, inspect the carb's vent hose and make sure it's intact and not clogged. Check the fuel line too, for damage/rot.

You should also remove the gas tank and clean it out. Take the petcock off and inspect the filters and valve, then clean the whole gas tank out so there's no dirt/bad gas in there.

Then check/change the spark plug(s). Before running it though, I'd check the valve clearance on the valves, guides on that online.

Once all that's done, it should run good and not leak gas.

Then you can address your other issues.

Pending how old it is, there are some parts I might replace just because:

  • Voltage Regulator
  • Starter Solenoid
  • Starter

    If the current ones are working, call them spares.

    Starters and solenoids are cheap, voltage regulators OEM are expensive, but you can buy a few after markets pretty cheap to have spares.

    Tool wise, I can recommend at least the following:

  • Wire/Brushes
  • Jack/Lift
  • Compression Tester
  • [Feeler Guages] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BYGIR4) You want these to go from at least .002 to .014 inches
  • [Caliper] (https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Caliper/dp/B000GSLKIW/) If you need to measure float height, you want to be accurate.
  • Angle Finder Useful for float height, as most carbs need to be held at a specific angle for accurate float height adjustment.

    Then your typical ratchet sets, air tools, impact guns, etc.

    And socket extensions (long ones) because getting to some things is a royal pita.
u/priestwithknives · 3 pointsr/FixMyPrint

You don't need a micrometer, just calipers with a wheel lock and 3 points after the decimal is fine

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Stainless/dp/B000GSLKIW/

u/Abalamahalamatandra · 3 pointsr/Denver

Search "digital calipers" just about anywhere, here is one on Amazon, for example.

u/55555 · 3 pointsr/functionalprint

I know what sub i'm in but seriously dude:

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Caliper/dp/B000GSLKIW

You have to factor in the value of your own time.

Cool fix anyway.

u/PMull34 · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting
u/stormist · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

I suggest getting two things that helped a ton with my prusa:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQR7TU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and
http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Extra-Large-SAE-Metric-Conversion/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1417042163&sr=1-1&keywords=caliper

Building from scratch is really great because you then have a mental framework for diagnosing when something goes wrong. Have fun.

u/Beer_Is_So_Awesome · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting
u/TheSkoomaCat · 3 pointsr/reloading

For the record, those digital calipers aren't made by Frankford, but are re-branded. You can get the same set "made" by several different companies but cheaper, like this set.

Not that there's anything wrong with the Frankford ones. Just pointing it out in case you were interested in saving a few dollars.

u/goldragon · 3 pointsr/wicked_edge

And to add on:

Some of us bought digital calipers so we could get really technical with our widths... =/

u/IsDaedalus · 3 pointsr/functionalprint

Here's my process:

I measured the leftover openings, their width, length and depth. Then I measured the distances between the openings. Once I had my dimensions, I recreated the openings in Solidworks as a sketch and then proceeded to work on the handle. First I created the general large shape of the handle and made sure it overlayed the openings. After applying some fillets and cuts to get the outside shape to what I want, I used the Shell command to remove any excess material on the inside of the handle to create a shell of my wanted thickness. Once I had the shape of the handle done, I added the tabs to go on the inside of the door. I printed a small section of the handle with 2 tabs to make sure the fit was good, made a few small adjustments and then printed the whole handle standing up in PETG. It's rock solid.

Fusion 360 should work just as well as Solidworks. My tool for measuring are $16 Neiko micrometers from amazon, I absolutely love them and use them all the time for work and around the house.

These are the ones I bought before:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NEA0P8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/spoonchild · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

So I've had my Anet A8 for about 3 weeks now. I have done everything you are seeing. First off let me say get yourself something like this https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B072L2YJLH/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Auto Bed leveling is amazing for being able to adjust and get that good adhesion. Also I was ripping my hair out trying to figure this out, when I took my nozzle off, and it was supposed to be a 0.4mm nozzle, but my 0.6mm drill bit went had gap on both sides, so the hole was 0.7mm which is bad when you are expecting a smaller hole. I would suggest moving changing nozzles/block. That said, also make sure that your thermistor is in the heatblock. There is the little hole by the heater that goes into the heating block. If not, you will be over heating for the filament.

Looking at what has been pused out, your nozzel is too far off the bed. If you don't have a dial calipers I would suggest getting one. something like this https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NEA0P8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

People say use a sheet of paper, but depending on the paper weight, you will have different thickness. Try to find a sheet that is either .1 or .2mm thick. This will allow you to set with the sheet of paper easier. I have .1mm thick paper that drags pretty hard, and that gives me a nice squish. If you think about it, you should be pushing a .4mm and with a .2mm layer, it should be half flat, half round. If the extruded is all round, then you are close enough to squish it. The most important part to the print is making sure the nozzle is at the size it is supposed to be.

u/oliverkrystal · 3 pointsr/reloading

Personally, I prefer dial calipers. I enjoy knowing the machinery that went into them (I know how digital work but it isn't the same). I also think that they are more accurate. You can feel them catch, screw up. You can see the tiny changes that thumb pressure can make in size that can be easy to miss with digital.

The beauty of a digital caliper is that it can do imperial and metric in the same device. Metric calipers are rare and priced accordingly. This pair https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UCIGCW (which I own) will also give you a fractional measurement in 64ths.

That being said, I have both. A pair I bought from a shop, and hand selected from a pile, and those generals. They get used in different roles. I pretty much only use the digitals when I need a metric measurement.

I'm not a reloader, but personally I would use my dial calipers over the generals. The dial will drift half a thousandth, but those generals will drift a thou and a half or more. I had a (cheaper) pair that would drift even more depending on how fast I slid them open and closed.

I use my calipers a fare bit in other interests and those are the ones I trust.

When you're buying one in store (the best way in my opinion), they should read consistently despite how fast\slow\short\far you open them. Do not slam them shut, and for the sake of all things do not close them to zero and lock the screw. They should always be stored slightly open, with the lock screw released.

u/NotPapaJohns · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

These digital calipers have been great for me. They are extremely accurate and precise, and the ability to switch between mm, decimal inches, and fraction inches is great if you live in the one developed country not yet on the metric system for some reason. It also includes two batteries, which is nice.

u/e_cubed99 · 3 pointsr/AskEngineers

I recently picked up a caliper ... went with this one. It's $26 rather than $9, but I read a comparison review that pushed me towards it. (review here)

I've had the really cheapo ones before and they are not very well made. They also seem to fall apart / damage relatively easily. I've only had the one above for a month or two but it meets my needs and feels very solidly made.

u/Rikers_Mojo · 3 pointsr/cars

Should probably pick up a pair of rotor calipers to measure them accurately so you get the most out of them. Something like this:

Anytime Tools Disc Brake Rotor Caliper Digital Electronic Gauge Gage Micrometer 0-2.5"/0.0005" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006Y1OWKS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RvU4yb42MT4DP

u/robstah · 3 pointsr/Machinists

Find the best looking Brown and Sharpe used dial caliper on ebay. I think I paid $35 and it is still mint and the movement is silky smooth. Your mileage will vary though.

But if I were you, I'd just save up and drop some coin on a Mitutoyo digital. A new standard 6" is $100 right now.

https://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-500-196-30-Advanced-Measuring-Resolution/dp/B00IG46NL2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1468330954&sr=8-3&keywords=mitutoyo+digital+caliper

u/Weldingwizard224 · 3 pointsr/Machinists

Mitutoyo 500-196-30 Advanced... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IG46NL2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share This is a great set of calipers

u/sintaur · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

Don't use the printed manual for assembly, use the online manual. Before doing each step, read the comments made by previous buyers. If you see a lot of comments on a particular step, call it a night and wait until you're fresh before proceeding.

I also recommended getting digital calipers. If you're made out of money, get a Mitutoyo.

u/ListenHereYouLittleS · 3 pointsr/woodworking

If I were in your position, I would definitely shoot for a big ticket item such as the sawstop PCS (36" T-glide) with 1.75hp motor. That will eat up your entire budget (plus $219 more). I cannot imagine a hobbyist woodworker who would not be happy with it.

OR you can do lots of little stuff: (take out the things he may already have)
Sharpening: this this this this and this

Chisels: here

Japanese saw: this and this

Caliper: here

Exceptional quality hand plane set every woodworker would love to have if they don't have it already: here. Conversely, you can get the Lie Nielsen 60-1/2 block plane and get the #4 and #5 from Lee Valley (I prefer their version).


If he doesn't have a planer, this is a great one: here


As for festool products, I would highly recommend the Rotex 150 with Dust collector combination

I'm sure i'm missing a couple of stuff here and there but I hope the list helps you get started.

u/ArizonaSnake · 3 pointsr/reloading

I have had VERY good results with the iGaging Absolute Origin found on Amazon Here: https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-ABSOLUTE-Digital-Electronic-Caliper/dp/B00INL0BTS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1498694071&sr=8-5&keywords=digital+calipers

There are a number of reloaders (much deeper into reloading than I) using this piece of hardware with very good results.

Here is the video that sold me on buying it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1yqZx_FNbSs

u/energy_engineer · 3 pointsr/engineering

>Harbor Frieght calipers

Whenever I hear/see someone using these, I show this alternative.

They're no B&S or Mitutoyo, but they are soooo much better than those HF jobs while being cheap enough that you can travel with them without (monetary) fear of them getting damaged/lost/confiscated.

u/The_Original_One · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

Twice your price range but I have these.

There is a great comparison video of several different calipers in the reviews. Some of which I think are in your price range.

u/david4500 · 3 pointsr/OpenPV

30mm dia. base Source 510 from Stealthvape turned down to 25mm. Threads weren't damaged from being chucked in a 3-jaw. Used a carbide cutter and took light cuts, about 0.05mm per pass. Also wet sanded the top base 600-2500 grit (I should have started with a lower grit, still some tooling marks)

http://www.stealthvape.co.uk/SOURCE-30MM-FLAT

/u/IsABot /u/vapescaped you guys want one let me know

A prior thread asking about 25mm 510s: https://www.reddit.com/r/OpenPV/comments/5gnnbf/25mm_510_connector/

If anyone needs some digital calipers, these are great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00INL0BTS/ I was using some from Harbor Freight prior and was becoming frustrated with them. Started looking around and these were quite highly recommended and well reviewed. Well machined, few smooth action, maintains zero. Was considering dropping $200 on Mitutoyo calipers until luckily finding these

u/RMEjay · 3 pointsr/Tools

iGaging has a decent one.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KDUD67G

u/neuromonkey · 3 pointsr/maker

Decent, inexpensive calipers.

u/bmemike · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

Here's what I got: http://www.amazon.com/VINCA-DCLA-0605-Electronic-Fractions-Conversion/dp/B017KUC6XQ

Per the description:

  • Accuracy: ±0.001"/0.02mm; Resolution: 0.0005"/0.01mm, 1/128""

    I can't imagine I need anything better than that given resolutions of typical consumer 3D printers.

    Of course, YMMV, but I have been nothing but happy with mine.
u/Hotrian · 3 pointsr/Vive

How To Measure Your IPD covers it pretty well. I used Digital Calipers that I already happened to own (not the exact ones linked, however), but you can use a regular ruler to do it.

u/AvaFaust · 3 pointsr/ender3

I use this set daily and they are a workhorse, I check them with gauge blocks and have had no issues with either of my pairs. It comes in 6, 8 and 12” length. It also features fractional inches if you use those. I also own their digital micrometer and it has been very reliable.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017KUC6XQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_QDKNDbHGK45N4

u/obviouslynuttrolling · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

Torque wrench

Socket set

Hex sockets

1/2 inch Ratchet

1/4 inch Ratchet

Combo wrench set

Calipers

Chain tool

Pretty close to everything you'll ever need to work on a bike, besides specialty tools. Buy or borrow other stuff when the issue comes up! You can do it!!

Edit: Added calipers.

u/DannyMakeHerMine · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

this one is a plastic head Caliper. Now these are cheap and flimsy but should be fine for regular day to day measurements. Just about any caliper around 30$ should also be fine and definitely better than the 10$ set. I wont link any of those since there are plenty and you should make your own informed purchase on those. If you plan on printing parts that need really tight tolerances id recommend saving up your pennies to to buy a better quality set. But these should be fine for casual measurements.

u/LockMarine · 2 pointsr/Locksmith

Amazon link

This isn’t bad for the price we use $150 calipers and I’ve tried some of these in a pinch and they’re pretty comparable.

u/aggieotis · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Get a set of decent calipers. You'll need them for all sorts of stuff and they aren't going to wear out. Plus they're so cheap it's almost a non-issue.

u/Xoth_Bnug · 2 pointsr/cad

Eyy~ You'll likely want one of these~ A digital caliper / micrometer.

u/SSChicken · 2 pointsr/functionalprint

Digital calipers! There are other methods, and certainly better calipers than this, but these are way more than enough to get yourself started for cheap. I have two nice sets of calipers, but at one point I just bought four of these and keep one in my office at home, one at work, one in the garage, and one more just stashed in a drawer because I use them all the time: https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Stainless/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Calipers&qid=1564629857&s=gateway&sr=8-3

For this print all I did was measure the diameter of the cable and the diameter of the knockout. That was enough to give me all the info I needed.

u/hahainternet · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

One machine screw with a spring washer and three sheet metal screws. Buy these:

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Extra-Large-SAE-Metric-Conversion/dp/B000GSLKIW/

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Extra-Large-SAE-Metric-Conversion/dp/B000GSLKIW/

You can take a pretty close guess at exactly what the screw specifications are without them, but they're cheap, very useful and will tell you exactly what the screws are.

u/royalchameleon · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

If you're designing your own parts, definitely get a pair of calipers. Can't recommend these enough.
Zip Ties are always a good thing to have around. Spare parts for your printer (heater cartridges, thermistors, fuses if you printer has them. ) and tools to change them (usually a socket or wrench set will do). Flush cutters.

Safety glasses for removing support material. My eyelids have saved me from so many flying pieces of plastic I've lost count. You always think "I dont need those" until you do lmao.

Small flashlight (+1 for magnetic mount), fine tweezers for pulling gunk off of your hotend, PTFE grease, Allen wrench set (ball-end sets are AMAZING for getting into tight angles)

u/Iowa_Dave · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

ABS and Nylon are the toughest, but can be difficult to print.
ABS will withstand higher temps.

Get a cheap digital caliper so you can take precise measurements. I model stuff in Fusion 360 and make weird parts all the time.

u/ShmobLife · 2 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle

Using a digital caliper on the clamp area is the best way to measure it if you can't find the spec somewhere online. I recall my 2009 Pista having a 26.0 handlebar clamp diameter.

Cinelli Peppers are cool, but you can't go wrong with Nitto either.

u/InternetWeakGuy · 2 pointsr/Guitar

Electric could be .011 too as I told my guy I play heavy last time I got my les paul set up. No idea what's on the Jaguar but I think they might be .008s? I like a light touch on fenders.

Either way I'd rather spend $17 on the tool and get the job done than buy a $20-$30 in electric strings and $10-15 in acoustic strings, and then throw most of them away.

u/UsernameHasBeenLost · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I've been using these Neiko ones (0.01mm resolution, 0.02mm accuracy) for about 8 years now with no issues

u/nauticalmile · 2 pointsr/ar15

If there is a second set screw and you have a set of calipers and a thread pitch guage handy, you can remove the second set screw and measure the major diameter which is your nominal thread size, overall length of the screw and the thread pitch. It will also likely be a "cup point" set screw, not a "dog point" or anything else crazy.

Otherwise, find a local machine shop to help you determine what you need, or a gunsmith to take care of everything.

u/zarx · 2 pointsr/AskEngineers

Disagree on the digital calipers. I bought one of these last year:

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Extra-Large-SAE-Metric-Conversion/dp/B000GSLKIW/

It's been perfect. Checked it against precision hole gauges. Held up great with abuse. And if it breaks someday, hey, $15.

u/isaacfank · 2 pointsr/PrintrBot

I dont have experience with printrbot, but i used tom's guide from youtube to do my calibrating. Just watch his video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUPfBJz3I6Y

Depends on the software for real time changes. I use octoprint. I know repetier host is really good also. If you do that, just set it as 100 in the slicer, then adjust in real time so you know what your setting should be always.

If you dont have a pair of calipers get these to measure the outside diameter of your filament, that may be why you have to adjust your extrusion. if the diameter is bigger, then it is shoving for plastic in thatn it really should.
http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Extra-Large/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451996465&sr=8-1&keywords=caliper

I am a toolermaker by trade, and i actually use these everyday in the shop. I stopped using my expensive ones and just use these now.

u/Flat-sphere · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

so im looking to get into 3d Printing, and unless someone has some better option, im going with the MP Select Mini.

My question is on the other things i need. Here is the list of the things im looking to buy along with the printer:

u/SodaPopin5ki · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Some time ago, I posted a set of Caliper Extenders for the Neiko 150mm digital calipers. I just added to the Thingiverse file a storage slot to glue onto the Caliper Case. It sort of snaps in, but obviously requires some glue. I'm using E6000.

u/iamtheuniballer · 2 pointsr/Bonsai

Looking at my toolbox, here was something I bought so I could measure the trunks and keep a log over the years...https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GSLKIW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have yet to start that log but I did use it to measure a drill bit size.

u/[deleted] · 2 pointsr/photography

>I've done lathe and mill work, where you have to use calipers for their intended purpose (measuring something), and you fucking treated them like gold. They're precision devices and should be treated as such damnit.

So what? Calipers are really cheap and he probably tried other methods.

u/tjbassoon · 2 pointsr/bassoon

If you're doing any kind of modeling of real life objects, it might be worth your while to buy a digital caliper so you can make your own measurements, especially if you need more specific ones after you get the initial ones in.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GSLKIW/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_b2hbgbL_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s

u/kerowhack · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

These Neikos from Amazon are fine. I have two: one for reloading and one for printing. Any nicer would be overkill. Starretts and Mitutoyos are great, but the clearances 3d printing deals with just don't need that much accuracy; I've found my cheapish ones to be +/- 0.01ish mm, so being conservative and calling it 0.02mm, it's still close enough that my filament diameter measurements end up being spot on.

u/Adventures5 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Very calibrated machine...here's how I calibrate: 1: level X-axis to metal bed mounting plate using calipers, here's what I used: http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-Instruments-147-Extra-Large/dp/B000UCIGCW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450496515&sr=8-1&keywords=general+caliper
Use a dial indicator to level the bed, here's the one that I used: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002PTUXRO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00
and if you have a Taz 5, use this dial indicator mount: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:551366

u/promodvette · 2 pointsr/Machinists

I got some digital 4" off amazon made by a company called igaging, they measure the same and repeat just as well as my brown and sharpe calipers.

Here is the same thing I have but the 6" version. https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-Electronic-Digital-Fractions-Stainless/dp/B001AQEZ2W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468282237&sr=8-2&keywords=igaging

u/i7-4790Que · 2 pointsr/Tools

~$25 can get you a pretty darn good digital caliper tho.

https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-Electronic-Digital-Fractions-Stainless/dp/B001AQEZ2W/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_469_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=24JYAF83MNG8BTGTSMVR

I don't do super precise stuff with mine, but it's worked well for shimming electric motors inside of fan housings.

And it doesn't eat batteries while in storage. So ¯_(ツ)_/¯

u/helix6 · 2 pointsr/reloading

I got this caliper recently and have found it to be excellent for the money.

u/CryptoVaper · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette
u/Hatsuwr · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Cheap digital calipers could get the job done, plus they are very useful in a lot of random situations.

I got these. Nothing at all special, but they've held up to a couple years of abuse now.

You can measure depth with the end that sticks out on the right, inside lengths with the top, and outside lengths with the bottom.

​

But also, the movers should take responsibility.

u/muaddeej · 2 pointsr/boardgames

It's not that hard if you have the mind for it and don't mind watching a lot of videos. Fusion360 has all of the tutorials built right in and it's free software if you are a maker. You will need some tools to measure things and plan them in the real world. I bought this and it has been all I have needed so far, but I've mostly been printing board game things.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AQEZ2W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/AlfonsoTheX · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I have this Wixey set (do you call them a set?) and have been perfectly happy with them (it?); I bought this model/brand because I was happy with their angle gauge, and the price was right.

Edit: misspelled brand name.

u/SustainedRuin · 2 pointsr/Machinists

I think you get the most for your money with these.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B5HKUCK/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8

I have a set and they have lasted a few years so far.

u/airsofter615 · 2 pointsr/aviationmaintenance

Snap On does not make all their own tools. It wouldn't surprise me if the Snappy set is just a re branded starrett. The boxes look identical. That being said, what kind of work do you do? I do a lot of structures and I barely use my combination set. I use the shit out on my little 4" square. Unless you're in a machine shop I think the big name sets are way overkill.

I mostly use a 6", 18" scale, a 4" Combination square, and a Mitutoyo Caliper

u/mvenice1 · 2 pointsr/turning

This site helps with Nova thread adapters.

Some other instructions.

Also, you should look into some decimal inch calipers. Or dial Or digital. I guess if you are used to that scale it’s fine. But using 16ths and then going to 128ths just seems pretty difficult. (1 + 12/16 + 4/128 = 1.78125) If you can do that in your head I’m impressed.

It does seem that 1.75-6 is what those measurements come out to. But idk how you determine what thread type it is. It could be metric? I’d probably do everything I could to find a published thread size and type from the manufacturer.

What size morse taper is this?

u/Highondogshit · 2 pointsr/preppers

Very cool and informative video. Really neat use of salvaged parts and the guy is intelligent and skilled. However I think he kind of down plays and under estimates the cost of the product and tools he was using and he also mentions the fact that you can buy a lathe (that would almost certainly work better) for a similar price. The big kicker is the other tools. The tools to use and or build this lathe would cost more than the machine itself. I'm going to link you some of the tools you'd want to be able to use this machine effectively (and make it).

This granite block will be the basis for all of your measurements it is extremely flat. You'd probably want to make a stand for it and it is very heavy as well. The 933$ version would be ideal for bigger stuff but maybe you could just make small stuff it's a small lathe anyways so lets say the 235$ version

https://www.amazon.com/HHIP-4401-1812-Granite-Surface-Accuracy/dp/B01LTHIHCK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=granite%2Bblock&qid=1569402248&s=gateway&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1

Mitutoyo Digital Caliper 120$ The waterproof version is better if you intend to use coolant. I think you could use cheaper no name ones for the ones that he built into the machine but you would need one good one.

https://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-500-196-30-Advanced-Measuring-Resolution/dp/B00IG46NL2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=mitutoyo+digital+calipers&qid=1569402063&s=gateway&sprefix=mitutoyo+digital&sr=8-3

Range dial indicator (runout gauge). He used one in the video and you'd be using one a lot. 219$

https://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-64PKA075-Indicator-Magnetic-Plastic/dp/B007XZIT5I/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=runout+gauge+mitutoyo&qid=1569402528&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Micrometer set with standards. 354$

https://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-103-922-Micrometer-Standards-Graduation/dp/B0006J42OA/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=mitutoyo+micrometer&qid=1569403065&s=gateway&sr=8-5

That's just getting started. Now you might be able to find some of this stuff used but I'm not sure if I would trust it. You wouldn't believe how careless people treat tools that cost several hundred dollars. If you did go used I'd try to find someone getting rid of their personal tools, not shop tools.

This isn't to discourage you though. I just want people to realize it's not easy or cheap. I'd start out with a lathe for wood and make stuff on it that doesn't need the tight tolerances.

Check out this guy. https://youtu.be/yCaGW9z4blM

u/mssarcastic22 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Bought this one and works wonderfully.

u/popson · 2 pointsr/EngineeringPorn

Funny coincidence... my <$20 caliper suffered a tragic "accident" in the shop today and is now NFG.

Here's a video that compares a bunch of digital calipers. If you don't want to spend $120+ on a Mitutoyo caliper, it sounds like the iGaging calipers are almost as good for less than half the price.

I just ordered the iGaging Absolute, expecting it to be decent.

u/bleckers · 2 pointsr/Tools

I have one of these (https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-ABSOLUTE-Digital-Electronic-Caliper/dp/B00INL0BTS) as well as a Mitutoyo (along with the piece of crap in the gif).

The iGaging is absolutely amazing for the price and feels pretty much the same quality as the Mitutoyo.

But without a doubt if you have some cash to splash, get the Mitutoyo Digimatic.

u/jesseaknight · 2 pointsr/Tools

Mitutoyo is the right answer. You can't go wrong there.

If you want a cheaper solution, I've heard good things about these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00INL0BTS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_02MAyb2RWWRKM

I've used many pairs of $10 calipers and sometimes they work fine. When they don't it's pretty disappointing. What might you waste/ruin by cutting something the wrong size? How long would it take to make back the extra $30? $100?

u/iroll20s · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I like the igaging stuff. iGaging ABSOLUTE ORIGIN 0-6" Digital Electronic Caliper - IP54 Protection / Extreme Accuracy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00INL0BTS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ZQERAbVQDZTS9

It’s won a lot of caliper shootouts on YouTube.

u/wanosy · 2 pointsr/reloading

Chamfer/deburr - the two you have listed fit on a case prep machine that I don't see listed. One like this, made by every manufacturer, is all that is needed https://www.midwayusa.com/product/465641/rcbs-chamfer-and-deburring-tool-17-to-60-caliber or https://www.midwayusa.com/product/171844/hornady-deluxe-4-blade-chamfer-and-deburring-tool

For a bench priming tool, this one https://www.midwayusa.com/product/457599/rcbs-automatic-bench-priming-tool is more highly reviewed, and the one I use now. First 15 yrs I primed on the RockChucker press. Or get a hand-primer as suggested. Got extra space on your bench, get it. Wanna watch TV and prime, get a hand tool. Up to you really.

And get the shorter handle for the press https://www.midwayusa.com/product/528383/forster-co-ax-single-stage-press-short-handle , much easier to work with. I do 7mag, .270, 30-06, and haven't felt the need for the unwieldly standard longer handle yet.

This guy makes a much better set of jaws for the press. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9BpFD7NbvL8 . Worth it? Take Forsters jaws on/off a few times. Then you'll say YUP. I'm honestly surprised Forster hasn't bought this guy out or designed their own like this.

One thing I have found with the Forster press vs O-ring presses, is that the Forster forces you to sit more in front of it, to facilitate 2 handed operation, and thus slightly farther away from the workbench. The O-ring style presses are more open to your left hand placing and picking up cases. Lefties gotta work at it with O-ring presses. I managed to angle my press slightly on my bench to minimize this realization.

As u/unrulywind mentioned, a decapping die is nice to have so you can remove the primer, clean the case, then get to work without getting any grit into your dies, my choice https://www.midwayusa.com/product/211699/hornady-universal-depriming-and-decapping-die

As for neck sizing dies, they are something you could get later if you find a need for it. I'd wait until you are more familiar with the process, and then go with a bushing bump neck die like Forster makes https://www.forsterproducts.com/product/bushing-bump-neck-sizing-dies/ , or a Redding https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1018049293/redding-type-s-bushing-full-length-sizer-die . If you're going down this rabbit hole you would probably want to get a good neck turner/reamer https://www.midwayusa.com/case-neck-turners-and-reamers/br?cid=10455 . But going down this rabbit hole this early on is not necessary. Most never do. Aren't most of the bench-rest guys going with full length sizing now?

And as u/-RicFlair mentions, the comparator tools would be more useful to you earlier on than the neck sizing/reaming tools. This is the comparator body with bullet ogive inserts. https://www.brownells.com/reloading/measuring-tools/bullet-comparators/lnl-comparator-body-w-14-inserts-prod36535.aspx . You should be able to find just a body and a .30 cal insert. And then these fit the same comparator body but measure shoulder bump https://www.brownells.com/reloading/measuring-tools/bullet-comparators/sinclair-bump-gage-insert-prod35265.aspx . Just for clarity, all this paragraph attaches to your caliper tool, so as u/-RicFlair also mentions, this is a reason to have 2 or more calipers. I have one dial caliper (never needs batterys) and one electronic which makes it easier to zero-out the comparator body + insert, so you're getting true lengths without having to perform subtraction, or re-zeroing a dial caliper.

This electronic caliper has been found to be accurate and inexpensive and the one I use https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-ABSOLUTE-Digital-Electronic-Caliper/dp/B00INL0BTS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525514664&sr=8-1&keywords=origincal . Keep extra 2032 batteries around! They give an extra battery in the case, but you don't want to be caught without. It matches up with my more expensive Brown & Sharpe dial caliper exactly, so far.

All my new cases also get prodded once with this tool https://www.midwayusa.com/product/729748/lyman-flash-hole-uniformer-tool . And after every firing (or 2) with one of these https://www.midwayusa.com/s?userSearchQuery=primer+pocket+cleaner&userItemsPerPage=48 . Note that the steel pin wet tumblers will clean this debris out, but the tool is so cheap why not have a manual version for those once off/extra dirty times.

Case cleaning: 4 choices in approx $ low-\>high - wipe by hand cloth - dry media tumbler - sonic solution wet vibe - steel pin wet tumbler. The last one is the latest invention and the one to go to if you want/need shiny clean. https://www.cabelas.com/product/shooting/reloading/case-cleaning/pc/104792580/c/104761080/sc/104661180/platinum-series-rotary-tumbler-l/1811194.uts?slotId=0 Does an amazing job. Do you want to wet tumble every time? Perhaps not, so one of these is the original standby https://www.cabelas.com/product/shooting/reloading/case-cleaning/pc/104792580/c/104761080/sc/104661180/thumlers-tumbler-ultra-vibe-tumbler/705516.uts?slotId=8 . Still using the one i got since um lets see 1972ish, so wow, yeah 46 yrs ago. LOL. I won't recommend any other dry media tumbler.

Powder measure - can't go wrong with something like this https://www.midwayusa.com/product/759813/redding-match-grade-3br-powder-measure-with-universal-metering-chamber . You might need a stand to go with https://www.midwayusa.com/product/552580/redding-rs-6-powder-measure-bench-stand . I see that Redding has come out with a few more powder measures since I last gandered at them, so pick what u want.

Powder Trickler - https://www.midwayusa.com/powder-tricklers/br?cid=9212 your pick, they all should be decent, but I'd pick the Frankford first, RCBS 2nd. $20 ish. The Redding is too short, don't know why they haven't realized it yet. Still good, but theres better for your money.

Powder funnel - https://www.midwayusa.com/s?userSearchQuery=powder+funnel&userItemsPerPage=48 . You can buy the pricey aluminum ones if you must have the best of the best, but the $5 jobbers have been doing the same job for a long time too, for the other 99.5% of us.

Scale - find an old used Lyman M5 or RCBS 505/510/1010 on ebay. Seriously. The ones that were made in good ole USofA. If it doesn't work to your satisfaction, there is a guy here that will re-tune to better than original. http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/tag/scott-parker/ . Or get an elec/batt scale. People seem to like the RCBS ChargeMaster https://www.cabelas.com/product/RCBS-reg-ChargeMaster-Combo/741110.uts?slotId=0

Pick up another couple reloading manuals, Hornadys and Noslers. You can find bullet/charge weights online too, but say power or internet goes out, you've nothing to do, so may as well reload some. You want to pick another load to work up. What do? One manual is not enough.

Also useful to find an older volume of the same manuals at gunshows/shops in your area. I think Hornady is up to 10th ed. Find a 2nd or 3rd ed. to see how much the lawyers have caught on to our game.

I know Forster is still made in USA. I think Redding and Hornady too. But RCBS has left this shore and it shows. Thats why my money goes to the first 3. You can't go wrong swapping their versions for what I've suggested here.

When you have another wad of cash burning a hole in your pocket, and you've digested what you're doing thus far, there are other gauges/accessories/rabbit holes to fall into and spend your hard earned dough on. Hit me up, I've got more suggestions.

Gotta like spending other peoples money !!!!

u/lagisforeplay · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

This is the caliper that I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00INL0BTS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

I wish I bought a 3mm hexdriver so that I did not have to use the hex key.

My biggest tip would be to pre-install or thread the screws in first when installing any screw to the frame. The threads need to be cleaned of the powder coat. This will make installing anything to the frame go much smoother.

Other than that use the online manual read the directions clearly and read the comments, they are very helpful.

u/Juisebocks · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

EDIT: I really suggest staying away from plastic calipers. There are metal calipers that are similarly priced and will last much much longer and are higher quality.

I usually recommend these from Harbor Freight because they do fractions:

https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-digital-caliper-with-sae-and-metric-fractional-readings-63731.html

And these from Amazon because the quality is much higher for a very good price, but they don't do fractions.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00INL0BTS

I use both depending on what room I'm in.

u/webdad2000 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I started with a pair from harbor freight, but then decided I wanted something a little more substantial, so got these off of Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00INL0BTS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and moved the HF pair out to the garage. These iGaging ones do feel more substantial.

u/Draskuul · 2 pointsr/reloading

After looking through a lot of reviews, this is the one I got:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KDUD67G

It isn't just how accurately they can measure, but how repeatable the results are, as well as how well they zero out and maintain that zero. This one was one of the best-tested ones without going to the $120+ Mitutoyo. It is definitely superior to the really cheap Harbor Freight / Frankford Arsenel / etc (pretty sure they are all the exact same ones rebranded).

Edit: I used this to successfully build a 1911 from 80% as well as regularly for reloading. I've also had other known good items (gauge pin sets, gun parts, etc) to provide a reputable comparison and test of its accuracy.

u/Sarcasticorjustrude · 2 pointsr/Tools

Any reason you can't measure the hole? Borrow/acquire a pair of vernier calipers to measure the hole. Harbor Freight and other cut-rate tool shops probably even have plastic ones that are 4-5 dollars or less.

u/Querkus_ · 2 pointsr/Fixxit

It's worth spending the $20 to buy a digital caliper (accurate to .001mm) to double check your work.

Here is the one i bought last time i had to rivet a master link:

u/Fuel4U · 2 pointsr/reloading

I'm just getting into reload/custom loading and my buddy suggested this, it's real cheap but works perfectly for OAL, diameter, etc,

Clockwise Tools DCLR-0605 Electronic... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018D9JPPA?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

u/SoggyAlbatross2 · 2 pointsr/cycling

You can always email Felt and ask or you can get one of these babies for under $10 and measure:

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Caliper-Adoric-Calipers-Measuring/dp/B07DFFYCXS

u/SmokinGrunts · 1 pointr/videos
u/FuzzyRocket · 1 pointr/cosplayers

I have uploaded my work papers here that should help, you can also check my post history for other work in progress shots.

Basic rundown:

  • Get a set of digital calipers like this they are under $20, and are vital in making measurements off of the figure. Read the instructions on how to use them, they are a great tool.
  • Figure how high you want the end result to be. I wanted Alphonse to be to scale. I found animator notes that had him listed as 7' - 4" or 88" tall.
  • I made all of my measurements in millimeters (mm) because I found it easier, you can do inches but pick one now and stick to it for the duration of the project.
  • Take the height you want and divide it by the height of the statue. You do not need to convert it the same units. I can explain why if needed.
  • My Alphonse figure was 228.1 mm tall, so that gave me 88/228.1 = .3858.
  • So any measurement I made on the figure I multiplied by .3858 and that gave me the dimension needed in inches for the costume.

    Always more than willing to answer any questions, so let me know if something does not make sense.
u/Shamlezz · 1 pointr/Games

People really overestimate how hard measuring things are.

Not what I would use due to how cheap it is, but look here dummy

u/Silound · 1 pointr/turning

Bowl gouge, not gauge :)

Read this PDF and watch the video that's linked for more information as to why spindle gouges are not to be used for bowls or other cross-grain turning.

The accessory tool set you linked is mostly designed for metalworking by the look of it. You would make modest use of the two spring calipers and the scribe compass in the bottom left of the photo, but none of the other stuff would be useful to a woodturner doing bowls. To be honest, you can buy the same three tools for under $20, so I'd buy the calipers and then maybe a [cheap digital caliper}(https://www.amazon.com/Neiko®-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Caliper/dp/B000GSLKIW/) for when accuracy matters.

u/eosha · 1 pointr/Machinists

Get a few of the cheap digital calipers. They're almost disposable, accurate enough for 95% of measurements, and if you need that extra accuracy on a final cut you should be using a good micrometer anyway.

u/beenyweenies · 1 pointr/computergraphics

As the others said, stick to Maya or 3ds max. Learning C4D once you know other packages is pretty easy, but for employment you really want one of the Autodesk packages.

Also, I've found the best way to learn to do 3D modeling is to do it as often as possible. No substitute for hours spent trying and failing. Almost everything you model has unique needs and requirements, so watching tutorials can only help so much. You need to just get in there and start creating, hit a wall on how some part of it should be made, then go research the best technique. A good example is how best to drill holes in surfaces, many people trip up on this.

I would recommend you start by choosing simple real-world objects and model them, whether they are things in your room or products, etc. Go on Amazon and buy a pair of calipers (such as these) and use them to take measurements of real world objects as you model them. This will help you get everything proportionally correct, AND make the job easier. Guessing proportions is a good way to make everything look off.

u/G33Kinator · 1 pointr/Watchexchange

I'd recommend you just pick up a set of cheapo digital calipers off Amazon like these. Worth noting, though, that if you plan to use it only to measure lug width you could save yourself some money and pick up one of these, since the precision of a digital set isn't necessary.

u/lateralg · 1 pointr/engineering

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Stainless-Digital-Caliper-Extra-Large/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1311244096&sr=1-2

These will cover most small objects. They have different lengths for different things, so pick whatever suits you. Have fun!

u/rubbinisracin · 1 pointr/reloading

http://www.cabelas.com/product/RCBS-reg-Rock-Chucker-Supreme-Master-Reloading-Kit/1324071.uts ($50 mail-in rebate on this)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N8JZL4?psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-Small-Base-Die-223/dp/B000N8LIOQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1495571705&sr=1-1&keywords=rcbs+223+dies

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Caliper/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495571775&sr=8-3&keywords=digital+calipers

https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Reloading-Length-Headspace-Gauge/dp/B001RI7A66/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1495572110&sr=1-1&keywords=lyman+headspace+gauge

= $435, leaving $65 for your first round of components.

When your $50 rebate comes, I'd get this stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Lock-Load-Comparator-Inserts/dp/B000PD5VLA/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1495572018&sr=1-1&keywords=hornady+bullet+comparator

https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-836017-Quick-n-EZ-Impact-Bullet/dp/B001B7ZB4Q/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1495572088&sr=1-2&keywords=bullet+puller

  • A load manual from your bullet manufacturer of choice. Since money is an issue, I'd start with Hornady and/or Sierra bullets which are on the affordable side of the spectrum and are good quality. Also, Hodgdon has a lot of free data for their powders (including IMR) on their website.

    This is basically my exact setup and I get great results from it.
u/Robathome · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Sorry for the delayed response!

I appreciate the compliment, sometimes I still get the feeling like I'm over my head with this stuff, but I still want to help however I can. Qui docet discit, as they say...

OK, if your results are coming back that far off, I would take a big step back and start with the basics. From what you've told me, my first guess is that the steps/mm for your towers is off. In your case, I would throw the assumption that your towers are all moving the same right out the window for now, and check each tower independently:

  • Remove the effector and the delta arms completely.

  • Use G28 to home the empty carriages to Z_max.

  • Pick a tower and stick a piece of tape on the column in a way that you can use as a reference for the starting position of the carriage on that tower. Personally, I put the bottom of the tape in line with the centerline of the lowest wheel. Technically speaking, you can do this for all three towers at the same time, but imho that increases the chances for human error.

  • Use G91 to switch to relative positioning, and then G1 Z-100 to (attempt to) move the towers down 100mm.

  • Put another piece of tape on the tower using the same reference point as you did before, and measure the distance between the two. If you don't have digital calipers, stand up, find your way to a hardware store, and buy them. Now. There is no tool more important in your 3D printing arsenal than a set of quality digital calipers. but I digress... If the distance between your reference points is not exactly 100.00mm, adjust your steps/mm... The simplest formula is

    (Current steps/mm) x (Expected mm traveled) / (Actual mm traveled)

    If that doesn't work, or if your steps/mm is still off, it's probably still a firmware setting, so try the following one at a time:

  • If you're using a microstepping, cut it in half, or quarters if you'd like (don't forget to do the same thing to your tower's steps/mm!!!). Oh, and if you're using interpolation, don't.

  • Trim down your max acceleration setting, again by 50% or 25%, and lower your speed settings too.

  • Quadruple-check that your bed is 100% flat, and make sure the points on the bed being probed are completely clean. I use FSRs, which uses nozzle-contact with the bed as the trigger. This method only works if the hotend is at operating temperature, otherwise there's likely a hard glob of plastic stuck to the tip of the nozzle. However, running it at temp while probing means that a tiny bit of plastic is left behind after every probe. For longer than I'd like to admit, these little blobs started stacking up and interfering with the probe results, even though they were barely visible!

    Don't give up! Running a 3D printer is an exercise in patience, and I find it extremely gratifying when it works! Trust me, you'll start keeping backups of your config settings, it's a hard lesson that most operators don't need to experience twice.

    What you're in the middle of is exactly the kind of situation where "you have to know how to walk before you can run" applies, except in an extreme case like this, you have to learn to crawl first.

    I'll help in whatever way I can! If you'd like, put your config and config-override files on pastebin, and I'll take a look to see if anything stands out!
u/Notorious_Dave · 1 pointr/reloading

This is my current plan, tell me what you think I should do different.

Press

Bullet puller

Scale

Dies

Caliper

Book

Tumbler

Media

Media Seperator


Case Prep Tool


Trimmer And also the needed shell holder

u/violins27 · 1 pointr/Cartalk

Here’s an example of what you’ll need to measure your rotor thickness if you want. digital caliper

u/MorleyDotes · 1 pointr/motorcycles

How about some measuring calipers.

u/DBDude · 1 pointr/reloading

For calipers I'm not sure about going with gun brand name since the price tends to go up just because gunz. This thing is probably just as good as your Frankford, but much less money. It's $17 and pretty much the same thing as the Hornady that goes for $27. Just look for general calipers that have the best reviews and you're bound to get a better deal than that one. Definitely look to see if they maintain zero for a long time, since you don't want it to be off several thousandths by the time you've measured your COL on your 50th bullet of 100.

u/Necoras · 1 pointr/DIY

Buy yourself a set of calipers (those are cheap, use better ones for real precision work) and take em with you when you go shopping. You'll be able to tell how thick things are from memory pretty quick that way.

And you're right; most dimensioned lumber is in 3/4" thicknesses. If you need to double that then buy 2 boards and glue em together. Easily done, just takes all teh clamps.

u/1ratava · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I use an [Electronic Digital Caliper like this one] (https://smile.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Caliper/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1491858601&sr=8-3&keywords=micrometer) and recommend you get one in your kit. Used several times in building the MK2S as well as calibrations later on.

u/rasfert · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Cheap electronic calipers are cheap. And they're incredibly handy.

u/OfficerPewPew · 1 pointr/300BLK

So this is a month old but I have some insight if you haven't already started a certain path.

I just bought a 300blk upper for my pistol. I have a lot of 223 brass I've saved to and decided to reload for 223 to save some money. Well I'm pretty well into reloading for 223 and decided i would start for 300blk as well. The equipment isn't too expensive (relatively) if you get some Cabela's sales and buy some discounted gift cards. Full equipment with necessary parts will run about $250 after everything (can be cheaper if you buy a bundle pack).

This kit

Digital caliper

Initial 300blk dies

Trimming die

Trimmer

Case lube

That's pretty much it for the equipment side. Then you'll need bullets, powders, and primers.

If you're starting out with 223 brass you may want to cut the case before trimming, but you'll need something to cut it with. If you buy some ammo to shoot and collect the casings you can't use them too.

I have everything I need for 300blk except powder pretty much. I just need to find something to use.

So $250 for equipment and 1k round of 223 reloading will cost me about $175. That's $425 for the first 1k round of just 223. Once I buy stuff for 308, 300blk, and 9mm I'll start saving in much higher quantities per round. I think I'll probably actually start saving money through reloading in a couple months if I shoot as regularly as I'd like. I still buy ammo on sales and all, so I typically don't count brass into my cost for a reloaded round. On average it's about $.18/round (for .223) if I don't find good deals.

Edit: so I just went through and did some calculating. .178cpr for 223, .285cpr for 300blk, and .362cpr for 308 of I get good sales and free shipping.

u/Flonkers · 1 pointr/DIY

Unfortunately I don't think that there's another solution that would produce an acceptable result. Personally I'd measure the thickness of the door and shop for a new lock to suit.
Here we go, from Amazon:

Cam Lock

Available sizes For Material Thickness:
5/8" cylinders fit up to 3/8" material
7/8" cylinders fit up to 5/8" material
1-1/8" cylinders fit up to 7/8" material
1-3/8" cylinders fit up to 1-1/8" material

Also I'd suggest a set of These which make measuring things like this really easy and they are cheap!

u/razrielle · 1 pointr/motorcycles

Agree with check the clutch cable first (simple things first always). If at the point where you're sure that it's not the cable, it's not hard to pull a clutch, drain the oil, pull the cover off, take the clutch springs off and then plates (pay attention to orientation). At this point do two things. Take a pair of mics and measure the thickness in three places on each clutch disc. Then make sure your steels are flat by putting them on a flat surface and try to slide a feeler gauge between the plate and surface.

u/_treefingers_ · 1 pointr/functionalprint

If it's a relatively simple shape, you can measure it up with some calipers and be on your way. For most 3d printing applications you don't need to go drop a bunch of money on some Mitutoyo or other "high end" calipers; These would do just fine.

Another trick for something with a lot more shapes to it, is to take a picture of it as squarly straight down as you can with a ruler next to it, so you can import the image as a 'canvas' into your modeling software, scale it until an inch on the ruler equals an inch in the software, and then you can trace the shapes up pretty well that way without having to do a ton of reiteration. Just keep material shrinkage etc in mind when you go to print if you're using a material susceptible to that.

u/cye604 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Overextrusion would only change if you modify your E steps per mm. You should not do this, though, without proper measurement. To calibrate E steps per mm, you mark off 100mm of the filament and tell the printer to extrude 100mm of the filament. Then, see what difference it actually extruded, and adjust your steps fractionally to compensate.

As for your XY steps per mm, you cannot do it without calipers. Pick up a nice pair, like these

u/splice42 · 1 pointr/functionalprint

And not more precise or accurate, see https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Stainless/dp/B000GSLKIW/ with the same accuracy.

u/ZiLBeRTRoN · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

To add to the others, get a nice set of calipers if you don't already have some. I prefer digital, and they are relatively inexpensive. I have this pair, and they work great for taking precise measurements. Spending a bunch of time modeling and then printing only for the parts not to fit is such a buzzkill.

Neiko 01407A Stainless Steel Electronic Digital Caliper with Extra Large LCD Screen | 0-6 Inches | Inch/Fractions/Millimeter Conversion https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nRh8Ab09Q96YR

u/day1patch · 1 pointr/bicycling

32 and 28 are pretty interchangeable as far as rims go. 25 will most likely still be okay, but 23 probably not. You can check this easily with a caliper, if they have more than 28mm width you might want to reconsider your choice :) By the way, I switched from 28 to 25 on mine and it made a hell of a difference.

u/8492_berkut · 1 pointr/reloading

Definitely get yourself a set of calipers. Even low-cost units can do you quite a bit of good as long as you don't expect too much out of them. Something like these can get you where you need to go.

With bipods, there's definitely some technique to be learned with them. You should remember to load the bipod while shooting. This article should help you understand. Also, cruise around on that site as it has an absolute wealth of information on it.

It sounds as wind didn't have much of an effect, so that's good. Keep it in mind, though, to shoot in a similar condition. If the wind is blowing when you start shooting, try not to shoot during a lull in the wind, and vice-versa.

Regarding your sizing die, try to adjust it where you have a good amount of contact. You should feel it hit the shellholder when you're working through the upstroke. It's hard to explain, kinda like when you know when a bolt is snug enough via the good old German spec - gudentite. ;)

u/bendvis · 1 pointr/NZXT

They're insanely useful in DIY projects, and many cost under $20. Here's the one I have: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000GSLKIW/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/ExSim · 1 pointr/reloading

I started out using a plastic RCBS dial caliper, but the teeth in the dial gearing started skipping so I had to find a new one. I went with this one from Amazon. I was skeptical, given the low, low price, but it was reviewed pretty well and I've been using now for several months and find it's working great.

u/LoneKrafayis · 1 pointr/buildapcforme

That is a really good project. I think you should try to find something that has already been done by a mod'ing expert or be ready to do a lot of research and CAD work.

If no mod example can be found you will have to go solo. I expect that the Intel NUC's could be made to fit if the bottom was cut to allow for its excess height. The feet need to be extended so that the laptop did not rock.

https://www.pcworld.com/article/3074962/computers/intel-nuc6i7kyk-review-this-skull-canyon-nuc-smashes-all-mini-pc-preconceptions.html

You can find all the tech details for the "Skull Canyon" NUC on Intel's website. The PDF of technical Product Specifications is where I would start.

https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/nuc/nuc-assets/nuc-skull-canyon.html?wapkw=skull+canyon+nuc

.

I think you will need some digital calipers and CAD software before you can be sure.

Neiko 01408A Electronic Digital Caliper with Extra Large LCD Screen

u/archindividual · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

The General Tools 147 is something like 25 bones and you'd be hard pressed to be disappointed with the accuracy and reliability.

Not worth it to spend more to get something that is more accurate than a printer can print.

https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-147-Fractional-Extra-Large/dp/B000UCIGCW

u/Tb0ne · 1 pointr/engineering

I have this ~25 dollar iGaging:
https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-Electronic-Digital-Fractions-Stainless/dp/B001AQEZ2W

For quick checks, sanity checks, basic stuff, etc. 20 dollar calipers are fine. My iGaging rarely disagrees with the calibrated Mitutoyo's in our quality department.

u/JasterMereel42 · 1 pointr/Tools

I just bought some calipers from Amazon for about $30. Can someone explain to me how these Mitutoyo calipers that cost >$100 are better than my $30 ones?

u/Sum_Dum_Guy · 1 pointr/CNC

Knowing that he made a 4 ft x 4 ft cnc machine, I would venture to guess it would be a cnc router and he is planning to mainly cut wood and maybe some aluminum. That said I really wouldn't buy expensive machinist tools if you wanted to better budget your money.


Here are some stuff that can be made on a cnc router:
http://www.shopbottools.com/mSupport/projects.htm


I'm assuming he may have told you what kind of stuff he could build or wanted to build when he said he wanted to build one. If it was for wood projects, then you can get a good 6 in. digital caliper under $40, such as these:


http://www.amazon.com/iGaging-Electronic-Digital-Fractions-Stainless/dp/B001AQEZ2W
I have the large readout version of that one by the way.


Not sure what he plans to use for clamping his stuff down to the table, but here's a great option:
http://www.rockler.com/hold-down-clamp-5-1-2l-x-1-1-8w


OK, you built a cnc router, but what do you make? Here are some 3D files for purchase:
http://www.vectorart3d.com/


This 3D router bit set will work for sign making (not sure what diameter bit he needs, and also add some spiral bits)

http://www.rockler.com/rockler-3-pc-signmaking-router-bit-set

This is a great work shop apron because these shoulder straps are more comfortable than the ones the just go around your neck. Also the mesh pockets let saw dust fall out instead of collecting in there.

http://m.duluthtrading.com/store/mens/mens-workshop/tool-bags-tool-belts/85021.aspx

If your not sure what he plans to cut them a gift card is always welcomed.

u/screwyluie · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

iGaging IP54 Electronic Digital Caliper 0-6" Display Inch/Metric/Fractions Stainless Steel Body https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AQEZ2W/

u/after12delite · 1 pointr/DIY

Most definitely. I find new uses for it all the time and they were pretty cheap!

iGaging IP54 Electronic Digital Caliper 0-6" Display Inch/Metric/Fractions Stainless Steel Body https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AQEZ2W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_saf8ybK2EF6Y9

u/iineviidable · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I'm a cnc machinist and these impressed me a lot. I highly recommend them for anyone's shop

u/SlidePanda · 1 pointr/motorcycles

This won't give you an immediate answer, but a caliper would tell you and they are handy to have around.

Even a super cheap harbor freight one would do. Personally, I like my not as cheap as it could be, but far from costly set.

Oh and get a valve cap.

u/livinbythebay · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Listen: this time I am going to help you out but please understand much of this hobby is learning to do stuff for yourself. There is a ton of problem solving based on intuition, ability to search for others solutions, and taking shit apart. You will not have very much fun if you aren't willing to put in the work.

For the time being just fold up pieces of paper to shim the feet. You really need a carpenters square and a line level to make sure everything is square.

Start with the table. If the surface you are trying to level your system on isn't level then leveling the system is going to be impossible. You want gravity to help you not hurt you.

[Here] (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1653631) is the link for z braces.

I also highly recommend [this mod] (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1454073)

Once those are installed and properly calibrated then everything on the frame should be square.

Next step is to get have you system properly trammed. That is essentially leveling the build plate to the extruder. With the pressed sheet metal plate on there it cannot be done properly. You need to get a much thicker aluminum carriage. Somebody else in this thread already offered to sell you one. I for one am a big fan of supporting the maker community and think you should take him up on that offer as the same thing online costs about the same amount.

Here are the tools you need to be successful in this endeavor. A proper magnetic line level. I got mine at harbor freight for a few dollars. A carpenter's square the bigger the better IMO about 1 foot on each side. And a good pair of calipers. The calipers are the most expensive tool on this list but you don't need top of the line Mitotuyos. At work we have the Mits but at home I use [these.] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AQEZ2W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

If you are willing to put the time in this hobby is great, very informative, and useful for all times of machining in the future.

Good luck I wish you well.

u/Insecurity_Guard · 1 pointr/EngineeringStudents

If you're spending almost as much on a pencil as you are on calipers, you're wasting your money on the calipers.

Now this is a quality gift

u/mere_iguana · 1 pointr/Guitar

Most of that stuff really isn't that scary to mess with, you just have to do stuff in a specific order and usually loosen up the strings before making any adjustments. Its really more patience than anything.

as for the input jack, it's probably gotten twisted in the socket where it's pressing against the wall/wood and that makes it hard to click the plug in. Just take the whole plate off, loosen up the nut (if it's not loose already) and turn the jack until you can put it back in the hole without it touching the sides. tighten the nut down holding the jack in that spot, then screw the plate back on. That should take care of the plug problem

iif wires have come loose from it, it's super simple to solder them back on. it's only 2 wires, so you can only screw it up once (theoretically).

7-9th fret buzz could be a bunch of different things. once you gt the strings off, use a straight edge and a fret-rocker to see if your frets are all even and the neck relief is correct, and fix those following a tutorial. then put the NEW strings on and go at bridge adjustments. Sometimes just a new set of strings will stop a lot of the buzzing too. figure out how to adjust the bridge for height, radius, and intonation, and after that your guitar should play AMAZING.

And remember to get the same gauge strings, that will make any adjustments a very minor job. if you go up or down in string size, the adjustments need to be a little more drastic so you can save trouble that way. If you don't know the gauge of your strings, find somebody that has one of these, a caliper and you can measure the first + last strings with it to figure out what gauge they are.

u/blargh12312312312312 · 1 pointr/woodworking

Yea. Let's assume I've squared my machine and trust that the blade and the fence are parallel. I just want to find a way to accurately get the width of the cut. I got this for my planer and it's brilliant. I was hoping for something like this, or a technique that's used for nice, accurate cuts other than try, try again, and hope you don't overdo it.

u/Smily0 · 1 pointr/woodworking

It's a great piece of equipment as-is, but if you ever want a digital depth gauge, check this one out: https://www.amazon.com/Wixey-WR510-Digital-Readout-Fractions/dp/B001PTGBSK. I have one on order for my Dewalt 735 planer. The built-in gauge works fine, but I figured this was a little easier to read (quickly, and more accurate than a ruler-type reading), and it's not overly expensive. Enjoy your new toy, it will provide you with some great results.

u/nerys71 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

pair of calipers. pretty cheap on amazon and should be a standard tool for 3d printing.

here is a pair for $13 shipped
https://www.amazon.com/SE-784EC-Digital-Caliper-Metric/dp/B003MA08VQ

personally I would go with something better.

These are well reviews and liked and come with a case

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00INL0BTS/

$40

u/theziptieguy · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

Thickness caliper and runout tool to determining of the rotor is within specification for thickness and warpage. Visually check for irregularities like cracks, hot spots and glazing. Just replace it to ensure their safety.

Examples for your reference.

Runout tool
Türlen Disc Brake Rotor and Ball Joint Runout Gauge Set Dial Indicator 1"/0.0005" Flexible Arm Clamp Locking Vise w/Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LML96RI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YlrFDbXC49Q24

Caliper gauge
Anytime Tools Disc Brake Rotor Caliper Digital Electronic Gauge Gage Micrometer 0-2.5"/0.0005" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006Y1OWKS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_anrFDb4TBV4CJ

u/FireStorm005 · 1 pointr/Cartalk

Smooth surfaces on all rotors, you'll need a rotor measuring caliper to know for sure. There is a specified minimum thickness, which is often stamped onto the rotor, wither the hat (the raised portion where the hub is) or the outer rim of the disc. At the thinnest part the rotors should be thicker than the min specified.

u/tonybcrazy · 1 pointr/engineering

I buy these for employees to use on the shop floor. The batteries seem to last ok and the are fairly durable and accurate.

Fowler 54-101-600-1 Stainless Steel Frame Xtra-Value Cal Electronic Caliper with Super Large Display, 6" Maximum Measurement https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B5HKUCK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PGlHAbJGWW60P

u/r00kie · 1 pointr/reloading

I highly recommend getting a decent set of digital calipers.

I use these at work:http://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-500-196-30-Advanced-Measuring-Resolution/dp/B00IG46NL2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419944639&sr=8-1&keywords=mitoyo+digital+caliper

for around $100 they hold up well, easy to read and about as accurate as calipers can get (reasonably)

u/3dprinting4lyfe · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

If you want to go cheap, buy harbor freight. They'll be just fine for this application.

If you want the bees knees, the ones that will last a lifetime, buy Mitutoyo. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IG46NL2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_15BWzbPF2TE7R

u/DerThes · 1 pointr/woodworking

Electronic calipers are super useful too. A bit more than $30 but I really like these.

u/busted_flush · 1 pointr/Machinists

I have some of their black body calipers and while I agree with you 100% I'm not sure they still cary them. At my store they now only carry the silver body and the one I bought ended up in the trash. It was really bad. You can get an igaging 6" caliper on amazon for $40.00. That's the route I've been going.

caliper

u/AimeNikor · 1 pointr/cad

I use this model from iGaging. It's for home use so I didn't need to buy a Mitutoyo or anything but the 4.6 star reviews on amazon are well-deserved. I'm impressed with them.

u/Soggy_Stargazer · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

What WayGroovy said.

I picked up This Pair

They are pretty nice and affordable. I would stay away from the 20 dollar throwaways. They are more trouble than they are worth.

u/Gutkrusha · 1 pointr/Machinists

I've used some Fowler calipers at work and... I will never purchase a pair for myself. They're almost always inaccurate, I have to constantly zero them, even after calibration.. just.. ugh.

It's true that Mitutoyo tools are expensive, but part of that price is longevity. I've had the same Mitutoyo Mic for 2 years now and it works just as well as the day I got it. I've had other brands that only worked well for 4-6 months of regular use, and it just isn't worth the hassle.

Honestly, though, with a .002 tolerance (Which compared to my tolerances at work, that's massive), you could get away with an eyegaging or something similar. I used These for about 8 months when I was starting out and they were adequate.

u/HumidNut · 1 pointr/reloading
  1. Off the top of my head, for rifle you need calipers, case trimmer, die set to get started. Bullet puller, notebook, primer pocket swager is often of use.
  2. The 5-0-5 scale is wonderful. Works without batteries, accurate and repeatable.
  3. Depends on your scope of use. For the absolute smallest "holes on paper" consistency is key. With speed comes compromise. I use a powered trimmer (Frankfort Arsenal Case Case Prep Center with replacement rcbs Carbide cutter) but I'm balancing volume over absolute precision. +/- 002" is good enough for my skills and firearms.
  4. Sounds good, thats what I use, but opinions vary.
  5. I picked up this iGaging several years ago, its been good to me. No outstanding issues, but I'm not a professional machinist.
  6. All my stuff is legacy and the newest press I have is a 2015 Forster Co-Ax and I find it terrible for on-press priming. I prefer hand-priming to judge my brass' primer pocket feel (time to load one more time and chuck it).


    So with your scope of use, reloading might not be the path best taken given the monetary outlay. There's plenty of scary good factory ammo (I'm a fan of the Hornady SuperPerformance line) where it does almost as good as my reloads, minus the hassle and labor. If you said you were shooting 69/77gr match stuff, I could almost definitely tell you to fire up the press.

    If you intend to reload for other centerfire, especially large bore, or rimmed stuff, then the decision to grab a press is almost a given.
u/8623057745649803 · 1 pointr/MechanicalEngineering

I watched this video and it convinced to me to buy an iGaging OriginCal digital caliper.

u/dabluebunny · 1 pointr/airsoft

You may find this helpful. I looked in all the wrong places before I found it. Also if you don't have a capiler this one will be goof enough for most projects in airsoft. This seems to further confirm to use the g36 nozzle (24.5mm). Good luck!

u/Loki_The_Trickster · 1 pointr/Tools

What's your budget? The cheapo $20 dial calipers I have work pretty well, actually. Good enough for me, but I'm not a machinist.

Poke around the local pawn shops. I got a Mitutoyo 500-196 digital caliper for $60 from my local pawn shop.

Otherwise, they're $124 on Amazon.

u/fluffy-d-wolf · 1 pointr/Bladesmith

https://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-Advanced-Absolute-Digital-Caliper/dp/B00WMKUUAQ I've been using a set of these professionally for the last 20 years, they're awesome. I used to be an automotive prototype fabricator and this is what I used to measure parts being machined, etc..

u/RabidMofo · 1 pointr/Machinists

https://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-Advanced-Absolute-Digital-Caliper/dp/B00WMKUUAQ


This is what you want. Couple bucks over asking but theres only really two companies worth looking at when it comes to quality measuring tools. Starrett and Mitutoyo. Starrett in my experience is generally a little more expensive.

Both brands are a "buy for life" variety when taken care of.

Every comment below is recommending there calipers so feel free to save yourself a headache. Merry Christmas.

u/ShinyB123 · 1 pointr/ender3

It takes a while to dial in your printer. There's a bit of a learning curve, but it's not too steep and... It's totally worth it! Your print quality will increase dramatically after you tweak some of the underlying settings. Here are a couple of things you need to do if you haven't already done them.

  1. Adjust your E-steps (extruder steps per mm of filament) to the correct value. From what I've seen on this forum, most Enders are preset too low, causing underextrusion issues right out of the box. The preset value is 93. I had to adjust mine to 98.9 after running through this following procedure: https://mattshub.com/2017/04/19/extruder-calibration/

  2. Next, grab your digital caliper ( I recommend this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017KUC6XQ) and calculate your flow rate. This is a bit more demanding, but it's also something you should do. BTW, this article has a built-in flow calculator (use it!) and, if I recall correctly, Cura's "aspect ratio" is 1.1: http://www.desiquintans.com/flowrate

    Good luck and happy printing!
u/OpticalPrime · 1 pointr/machining

I have a set of mitutoyo for my work, but for knock around and loaners I got these from amazon and I’ve been pretty happy with them.

https://www.amazon.com/VINCA-DCLA-0605-Electronic-Fractions-Conversion/dp/B017KUC6XQ

u/Grey406 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

The ones from Lowes may be too small at only 3inches. It'd be best to get something closer to your print bed size

I bought these 6 inch calipers from amazon and they have been great https://www.amazon.com/VINCA-DCLA-0605-Electronic-Fractions-Conversion/dp/B017KUC6XQ

u/HurricaneErickson · 1 pointr/Tools

VINCA DCLA-0605 Quality Electronic Digital Vernier Caliper Inch/Metric/Fractions Conversion 0-6 Inch/150 mm Stainless Steel Body Red/Black Extra Large LCD Screen Auto Off Featured Measuring Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017KUC6XQ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_VA7ODbFZ6TE6K

u/_Please · 1 pointr/Tools

I'd also agree with Mitutoyo, they're top of the line in my opinion. I use them at work, and they're great. However for at home I just bought these. I will only be measuring ID or OD of hose, etc.

https://i.gyazo.com/4236146349e1e7c6e712be3963a7462f.png

https://www.amazon.com/VINCA-DCLA-0605-Electronic-Fractions-Conversion/dp/B017KUC6XQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1502910277&sr=1-4&keywords=digital+caliper

u/BobLoblawATX · 1 pointr/woodworking

I just started about six months ago, and I thought I would add some pretty un-sexy things to the list... but Im so happy with them

u/richardguy · 1 pointr/reloading

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017KUC6XQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks for getting back to me. Yes, there can be a small or a huge difference between the blade and the flat part. Usually it's the difference between 1.7515 and 1.75 inches from blade to flat.

u/arbarnes · 1 pointr/Wetshaving

FWIW, I've been impressed with these for the price.

u/learnyouahaskell · 1 pointr/Tools

If you want a medium-range one i.e. good enough but replaceable for everyday/student use, my research led me to these. They have a unique display with large-format decimal in/mm as well as full-format fractions (of an inch). From Clockwise Tools:

  • 6-inch (~$20)
  • 8-inch (~$34)
  • 12-inch (~$48)
  • Data-tranfer cable for automatic entry into Excel, etc.

    It is not a clone of the cheaply-mass-produced ones, or a clone of the other one or two styles.

    I've had my eye on them for a while but then my friend's drill was stolen off the porch or garage when it was half open. So until I talk with the door-to-door flyer distributors, I should put that first...
u/spiveycat · 1 pointr/Stretched
u/groaner · 1 pointr/ender3

Wow, I've never seen a nozzle temp that high for PLA.
I've considered going at a lower temp for the build plate. I'll try that.

The Buildtak is very similar to the original Ender surface.

I'm going to order this Caliper, I think. Comes with a set of gagues so maybe that will help.

https://www.amazon.ca/Neoteck-Stainless-Electronic-Fractions-Conversion/dp/B074M6LX1N/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1536243511&sr=8-4&keywords=caliper

u/abedfilms · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Can you recommend me one under $30?

Maybe one of these?

These are in Canadian $

Digital Vernier Caliper Tacklife Upgraded Stainless Steel Caliper 3 Units Conversion With Thumb-Roll Accurate Setting|Auto Off Mode|±0.001" Accuracy|6" Range--DC02 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B071X63837/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_25oTDbK5CP5K2
$25


Digital Caliper Tacklife 150mm 0-6'' Vernier Caliper with 2 inches Wide Super Clear Display Auto Off for Length Depth Step Values, Plastic Material- DC01 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07DHLS3TF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_c6oTDb1NBFVFF
$17


Neoteck 6 inch/150mm Digital Caliper + Feeler Gauge Set, Stainless Steel Electronic Vernier Caliper Fractions/ Inch/ Metric Conversion https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B074M6LX1N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_o6oTDb5D39CHZ
$32

What is a feeler gauge set?

u/parabuzzle · 1 pointr/functionalprint

If you know the screw size of the screws you plan to use, you can use a screw size chart (like this: http://www.accuratescrew.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/Table1.jpg)

Don't forget to convert the inches to millimeters ;)

​

I just used my digital calipers to measure the size of the screws I was going to use and then added a bit of clearance. If you're going to make functional prints, you'll probably at least want some form of caliper measuring device. ... it doesn't have to be super expensive and insanely accurate.. this would do just fine IMO: https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Caliper-Adoric-Calipers-Measuring/dp/B07DFFYCXS/ref=sr_1_18?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1543583874&sr=1-18&keywords=caliper

​

Another option which is another "functional print" is to design a plate with ascending hole sizes so you can test fit screws whenever you are trying to decide what size hole to make (kinda nice to have a physical representation of the holes your printer makes) Don't forget to mark it though :)

​

u/kotoandjuri · 1 pointr/DnD

Buy a set of calipers.

u/guruguys · 1 pointr/retrogaming

Its amazingly easy with things like https://www.tinkercad.com/

​

I had also never done any 3D designing before I got my 3D printer and have made many parts like this pretty easily.

I found that purchasing a cheap digital caliper is a great investment too, I had to prototype far fewer prints when I could accurately measure to the .1mm, 3D printers are amazingly accurate. Measuring things like the shaft of the part you want to create that needs to slide into the stick then making a perfectly size hex hole to accommodate is the hardest part.

u/ratZ_fatZ · 1 pointr/bicycling

Just take the bike to any bike shop and ask what size seat post does it take, also get yourself a Caliper like this one and while your at it a seat post clamp and toss that quick release in the bin.