Best digital camera accessories according to redditors

Link to the camera that OP used for this picture.

Link to the filter that OP used for this picture.

Edit: As requested: Link to the 10mm lens that OP used for this picture.

Seems like a perfect set-up for this

The Lens was actually a Sigma 10-22mm shot at 10mm.

http://www.amazon.com/Sigma-10-20mm-4-5-6-Digital-Cameras/dp/B0007U00X0

Also the filter was one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/ND-3-0-1000x-Neutral-Density-Filter/dp/B0012LO1UG

^The graduated kind

This would be more effective, especially at that angle:

http://www.amazon.com/Opteka-Voyeur-Right-Angle-Canon/dp/B000F49052

The camera was equipped with this

Check out the Xiaomi Yi. Here's a test video showing it compared to a GoPro. The Xiaomi Yi 2 shoots 4k and is $200 on Amazon. It has its own version of a mounted case, but it will work with GoPro accessories. Amazon sells these Chinese knockoff accessories for super cheap. I got this for $10 a few months ago and they're all pretty good quality. I mean it's just plastic, and the mount stickies are still the same 3M brand GoPro uses. Selfie stick is kinda crumby though.

Might also look at getting a GoPro on Ebay or Craigslist. I picked up a new Session for like $100.

Perhaps he is using this lens: http://www.amazon.com/Opteka-Voyeur-Right-Digital-Cameras/dp/B000F49052

> I assume using a GH5 and a Canon 70D in one video will be obviously glaring.

Not really. These examples were shot with the GH5 and the 70D:

• [Erik + Lisa / Wedding 2017-05-06 by DBoy Productions]
  (https://vimeo.com/220547012) (1080p)
  
  
• [things are changing. by MIMEI LAND] (https://youtu.be/P2NbGEYVUTU) (1080p - shot on GH5 w 12-60, Canon G7x, Canon 70D w Sigma 18-35 f/1.8)
  
  
• [AVENTURA CAZORLA COUPLEFITNESSFOOD! | VLOG 065 by COUPLE FITNESS FOOD] (https://youtu.be/VY9Xg2s-64Q) (1080p - shot with the 70D, the GH5 and a GoPro)
  
  With a color chart, you can match the two cameras in post as described in [this great tutorial] (http://www.hybridcamerarevolution.com/2016/04/matching-colors-across-camera-brands.html) from /u/PastramiSwissRye.
  
  With a [$1997.99 GH5 body (w a free 64 GB SD card and a couple of batteries)] (https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-Mirrorless-Camera-Ritz-DC-GH5KBODY/dp/B01N3LU9O2//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20), a [$298 Baveyes Ultra 0.7x focal reducer/adapter] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=231987710613&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg), a [$97.99 copy of V-LOG] (http://adorama.evyy.net/c/60286/51926/1036?u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.adorama.com%2Fipcvl.html) and a [$101.96 X-Rite color checker pro] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002NU5UW8//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20), you can keep your Canon glass and use the 70D as a B cam.
  
  Nice review of the Baveyes Ultra [here] (https://youtu.be/m6qMRKVfzpc). Metabones isn't the only game in town.
  
  With this setup, you'll get 4K/60p, internal 10-bit 4:2:2, 1080/180p slow motion, unlimited recording time, a headphone jack, dual card slots and a full sized HDMI output - plus improved low light performance from the Kipon - and compatibility with your existing Canon lenses.
  
  Hope this is helpful and good luck with your upgrade!
  

Oh! I keep forgetting about this. Everyone is telling you about single lenses, but Canon does offer a 2 lens set with the 10-18mm zoom and the 50mm f/1.8 prime for about $350. If you looked at used lenses for the 24mm, you could pick up all 3 for right about $500.

For those of us who are not in the lower 48 and want free shipping, Amazon has the same deal with Prime.

Basically, the 35mm is okay (width-wise) for indoor shooting. It will probably do the trick, but if you want to get a large-ish group, you will need to back a bit up which might be tough indoors.

That being said, it is a fantastic lens and relatively inexpensive so I would certainly pick it up. Honestly, there is not a better option unless you want to spend a lot more money. If you spend a little time with the lens you will lean to work around the focal length. I (and many others) love that 35mm and would recommend it as a great first lens.

If you want a fast, wide lens, you don't have many other Nikkor options - Check Craigslist and see if you can find a good copy of this 17-55 f2.8. It doesn't have VR, and it is heavy, but it is a hell of a lens. IMO there isn't a better 'all-around' zoom in Nikon's DX lineup.

Edit: I think everyone needs at least one really wide lens. IMO Nikkor doesn't have a great solution for this category (for DX). The Nikkor has a more usable zoom range, but Sigma has a wider lens and Tokina has a faster one. I went with the Sigma 8-16 f4.5-5.6 but the Tokina 11-16 f2.8 is also very nice. Pick which is more important - crazy width but slow (Sigma) or good width and fast (Tokina). I love my Sigma to death but would still like to pick up a Tokina as it is much faster. Basically, pick a plan for lenses based on what features are important to you, and get the lenses you think you will use most, first.

There are a lot of things wrong with this post.

The 50mm/1.8 is one of the cheapest lenses out there. Because it is a prime (instead of a zoom) they can have fairly good image quality and still offer it at a decent price.

There aren't any wide angle prime lenses in this range I'm aware of (there is a 28mm prime for $400+ but that's really not very wide on an crop sensor body). For wide angle shots your best bet is using your kit lens wide open (assuming it's something like 18mm or 28mm) and saving for a true wide angle.

Saying I want a cheap wide angle lens with good quality is like saying I want a cheap computer that can play Battlefield 3 with max settings on at full resolution. You can buy a cheap lens that might be sort of a wide angle but it's not going to perform very well.

The cheapest wide angle for a Canon that's nice is probably the Sigma 10-22mm zoom lens for close to $500.

http://www.amazon.com/Sigma-10-20mm-4-5-6-Digital-Cameras/dp/B0007U00X0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1320951022&sr=8-1

If you are looking for a good all around lens that can go fairly wide open I'd look at something like this Tamron for $500

http://www.amazon.com/Tamron-17-50mm-Aspherical-Digital-Cameras/dp/B000EXR0SI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1320951205&sr=1-1

I know of four wide angles that people with DX basically choose from.

The Tokina I listed.

The Sigma 10-20 3.5
http://www.amazon.com/Sigma-10-20mm-3-5-EX-Nikon/dp/B002D2VSD6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1334661668&sr=8-2

The Sigma 10-20 4/5.6
http://www.amazon.com/Sigma-10-20mm-4-5-6-Digital-Cameras/dp/B0007U00XK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1334661668&sr=8-1

The Nikkor 10-24 4.0
http://www.amazon.com/Nikon-12-24mm-Autofocus-Nikkor-Zoom/dp/B000092M1T/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1334661813&sr=1-1

The Sigma 4-5.6 is not nearly as good as the Sigma 3.5 - From what I rememeber reading - more chromatic aberation and distortion.

The Nikkor is the best of the 4, but it's double the price, and not even close to double the quality.

The rub came down to the Tokina 2.8 and the Sigma 3.5. The Tokina has better build quality, better light sensitivity, less CA and less distortion. I looked at a lot of pictures on Flickr, asked a few questions.

What stuck me the most was that I had a lot of responses from Sigma owners telling me if they had to do it over, they'd go for the Tokina. Ultimatly, they's what swayed my decision.

I look at it this way - is this reasonably a "once in a life time" trip for you? Is this primarily a trip where you plan to take a lot of pictures/primary focus of the trip? If the answers to either quesiton is "yes", it would be worth spending a few dollars more now and getting shots you'll never have the oppertunity to get again. That's how I ended up with a lot of the gear I have. I went to the Munich Oktoberfest in 2007 with a shitty camera, and I regretted it. I'll never have the oppertunity to take those pictures again.

I shoot solo interviews all the time! Tell them you need an hour to get ready, and try to do as much as you can setup-wise when they are not in the room. I rig a colorchecker passport to a lightstand, and guesstimate where the talent's head will be to help me set up beforehand.

Once your lights are up, you are happy with your framing, and audio is set, then bring your talent in the room. Explain that you need to place him and make some final adjustments to make him look good (if they are new to filmmaking process, I like to explain to them that in Hollywood people make careers being stand-ins for this very reason, helps them understand that it's standard and that I'm not making mistakes). After that, jump to it!

http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Wireless-Trigger-Shutter-Transceiver/dp/B004YW79F4

Try those. Buy yourself a couple spares and they'll be as reliable as you need.

My two cents is that it's not really worth it. Yes, TTL can be convenient if all you will ever do is to shoot with on-camera flash, and leave your camera in auto all the time, and with an advanced wireless setup with multiple flashes, it's somewhat convenient to be able to adjust the ratios from the camera itself, rather than having to go to each flash in a different setup.

That said, in terms of advanced lightning and overall versatility, you are going to have a much better time with a wireless setup and multiple flashes.

However, for the price of the one SB-700, you can have:

1. 2x Yongnuo YN-560 III - 2 x $85 = $170
   
2. Yongnuo RF-603 wireless transmitter - $32 - ^1
   
3. Cowboystudio double light kit - $68
   
   Total: $268, that leaves you with enough to add a softbox or some lightning modifiers.
   
   Here's the thing: A manual flash, and compensating for it, even if you occasionally mount it on your camera becomes second nature after just a week or two, and the sheer convenience of being able to (let's say you're photographing a party), being able to just put two flashes in the room, set them both to something reasonable, point them at the ceiling, and shoot away handily beats out TTL, and avoids the harsh light on-camera flash gives you.
   
   
   Since you're giving prices in euros, you may want to check amazon.fr, amazon.co.uk or amazon.de - whichever of these is more local to you - the Yongnuo gear is usually available there, and light stands to the Cowboystudio are usually also available, and shipping may be cheaper.
   
   ---
   1. Note there are two different Nikon models, the N1 or the N3 - you'd need to check which model you need.

I'd recommend these:

https://www.amazon.com/Meike-Automatic-Extension-Mount-NEX-5R/dp/B00BXZ9ALQ

Meike Automatic Extension Tubes work great and the AF remains good. I use them on my A6500 as well as my A7R and the results are fantastic.

Now, that said, I do have and use actual medical/military lenses dedicated and made for macro work as well. There is a noticeable difference in quality BUT for the average person and even most photographers, the difference is negligible, especially considering the price differences.

Amazon/google canon travel/blog kit cost

For those less initiated link

The Simga 10-20mm is a great lens for landscapes and is closer to your budget. http://www.amazon.com/Sigma-10-20mm-4-5-6-Digital-Cameras/dp/B0007U00X0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1318948151&sr=8-2

It was my first 'real' lens on my 450d back when I started in 2008. I traveled a lot and this lens was indispensable.

The 50mm is too zoomed in for his style of photography. The 28-75 is wider, but leaves you a bit wanting.

What camera? You don't need one at all if you can install magic lantern, it's built into the software (what I use) - otherwise the cheap Amazon knockoffs (http://www.amazon.com/Shutter-Release-Timer-Remote-Control/dp/B0081EC08M/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1394018085&sr=1-5&keywords=canon+cable+release) work as well as the canon $100 ones (what I used before ML).

edit: ah, i see your have a nikon. maybe this one: http://www.amazon.com/GTMax-Digital-Shutter-Release-Control/dp/B00463ERCY/

wait! I have one of those! This one: (https://www.amazon.com/Foto-Tech-Wireless-Control-Cameras/dp/B00GSAEN4A/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1497150913&sr=1-1-fkmr1&keywords=cam.in+remote+a6000) which I have never used and it's still sealed. Same I should have researched beforehand.

You could also get 90 degree lenses. It looked like you were facing forward but the lens attachment took the photo to your right, like this modern one.

There's cheapo ones that have intervalometers and bulb timers too. Ex: https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Shutter-Release-Remote-Control/dp/B0081EC08M

The Sigma 10-20 f/4-5.6 is a good choice on a crop sensor.

I don't know if it has an intervalomter function built in (I'm a Canon guy), but just get one of these and take all of five minutes to read the manual. Super easy to use. Then take all of your images and throw 'em in to your favorite video editing software and go to town. Fairly simple, honestly.

Attach one of these radio triggers to the hotshoe mount on your camera and the other the hotshoe mount of your SB-600.

http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Wireless-Trigger-Shutter-Transceiver/dp/B004YW79F4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1452508589&sr=8-2&keywords=yongnuo+603



Then place the radio trigger and your flash onto this and fire away

http://www.amazon.com/Photography-Studio-Umbrellas-Fancierstudio-UB1/dp/B004HR0M4Q/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1452508670&sr=8-4&keywords=light+stand+umbrella

1. Nope! Put the flash into Manual mode, set the power of the flash, put it onto the camera's hotshoe, and fire away.
   
   
2. The YN-603N is a great option for off-camera wireless shooting. I've used the Canon equivalent with my 60D, and so I have one mounted onto the camera plugged in with the shutter release cord, the flash off-camera set to radio, and the second 603 in my hand as a remote shutter release. Hitting the button on the 603 will trigger both the off-camera flash as well as the camera's shutter. It makes the limited macro stuff I do much easier because then the camera shake is limited to the shutter.

hey everyone, I'm going on a trip to Ireland in a couple weeks and decided it might be time to pick up a few things. for reference ive got a Canon T3i and the 2 kit lenses. (18-55, 75-300)

I thought this would be an excellent opportunity to get a wide angle lens and after looking it seems like canons 10-18 is a good choice, and they have that in a bundle that comes with the 50 f/1.8 as seen here, which seems like a good deal.

Adding two more lenses means my case is WAY too small and after reading through the megathread I found this amazon basics bag which seems more than large enough, non descript and at a very affordable price point.

so is that all good for the price? just looking for confirmation,

thanks.

> Does the camera body have a built in wireless trigger that SB-600-700-800-910 respond to?

Yes, kind of. The main on the camera does a few special preflashes that the other ones can pick up. It's kind of like if I used a flashlight to send you a message in morse code -- except they do it much, much faster.

> Or do I have to mount a flash on the camera shoe, and use a wireless transmitter built into that flash to trigger a wireless receiver in another flash?

That's an option but not necessary on the newest models. However, I still often opt to buy cheap radio triggers because it's nice not having to deal with line of sight.

> Is the Nikon wireless system in SB-XXX capable with regards to range, i.e. 100meter range or more,

No, I wouldn't say so. Maybe in a pitch black environment. The range is very dependent on how bright it is since in a bright environment the bursts of light from your camera are harder to "see."

> and is it line of sight limited, or should I buy the $39 wireless radio trigger kits from eBay?

It is line of sight limited.. kind of. In a dark place if it bounces off a wall it will still trigger your flashes. It's hit or miss and depends, again, how much ambient light there is.

> Or does Nikon sell a wireless trigger kit/CLS that takes better advantage of integrated features (i-TTL via wireless triggers)?

Nikon might, but in this case the most common thing would be to buy something like Pocket Wizards. However then you're shelling out around $150-250 per transceiver which is over $300 just for one camera/flash pair. You can easily drop a thousand dollars just getting your flashes to be wireless.. which really sucks.

> What do I miss out on with cheap eBay remote flashes?

They have very long ranges and are quite reliable so you mostly only miss out on the TTL aspect. If you're fine with setting flashes manually they're very useful. I have a set of RF-602's by Yongnuo (cheap Chinese) but you'd now want to purchase the updated RF-603. They will probably be ever so slightly less reliable than a pocket wizard set, but by less reliable I mean you may miss one shot every 200-500 photos.

On the cheap I strongly recommend the yongnuo unit. Also works as a wireless shutter release, and very well reviewed for the price.


If you've got the coin, the pocketwizards are worth it, but for just starting out the yongnuo's are a steal.

extra battery is a must have.

remote for easy remote shutter


external usb powered battery charger

any anker battery pack is nice too, hook this up to your camera directly or to the charger above.

for bags/straps i'm a huge fan of peak design. they're expensive but damn good quality. https://www.peakdesign.com

OP could also buy these triggers for which the YN560 has a receiver built in:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004YW79F4

As a pair they can trigger any manual flash, but as long as you have a YN flash you only need one trigger. Saves one more piece of equipment to keep track of and carry batteries for.

I bought the same kit you did right before I went to Florida for Christmas. I ended up buying this lens kit while I was down there and was very happy with it. It's $350 which I know it's a little more than what you had asked for but it gives a good amount of flexibility. The wide angle is made for the T6i crop sensor but the 50mm will be more like an 75-80mm.

Here is an unprocessed pic I took with the 50mm.

You should check out these: http://amzn.com/B004YW79F4

Or alternatively just stick a piece of white card, like a business card in front of the on camera flash to bounce the light away from the subject. Also turn down the power of the flash manually. Doing both of these will prevent the on camera flash affecting the exposure, but will allow the slaves to pick up the flash. No delay is needed.

I used the same technique before I bought the triggers listed above, while they are manual control only they are a great starter trigger.

Hope that helps.

(First time poster long time lurker, made account to answer your query!)

No, the old kit doesn't work with the 3+, you need to get the new kit:
http://amzn.com/B00F19Q3S8
$19.99

They should've been clear in the description, I Googled the model number and then saw that the date the item was added to Amazon was September 30, 2013. I just got it the other day and it works fine.

Hi all,


 

I am researching getting a new camera and I have never had a DSLR camera before. I want to buy something nice, but not something so entry level that I'd need to go out and buy a new one again in a couple of years. This is definitely something I will keep for a while.


 

Option 1: Nikon D3300
-https://www.amazon.com/Nikon-1532-18-55mm-3-5-5-6G-Focus-S/dp/B00HQ4W1QE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1485311699&sr=8-3&keywords=d3300
-$450 on amazon with a 18-55mm lens and accessories

 

Option 2: Nikon D5500
-https://www.amazon.com/Nikon-Camera-3-2-Inch-Certified-Refurbished/dp/B013RFPOEG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1485312117&sr=8-4&keywords=d5500
-$600 on Amazon (REFURBISHED) with a 18-55mm lens

 

I would also consider getting a 55-200mm lens for either option for an additional $150:https://www.amazon.com/Nikon-55-200MM-Vibration-Reduction-Cameras/dp/B00RUBK53Y/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1485312649&sr=8-10&keywords=nikon+lens


 

Current thoughts
--The 3300 seems to be very highly reviewed as an entry level DSLR
--The 5500 seems to be a couple of steps ahead and may be worth it to me to spend a little extra for something that will last longer and produce higher quality photos. Does anyone have experience between these two, is the upgrade worth it?
--I care more about the photo quality than touchscreens or wireless connectivity
--Any thoughts on the 55-200 lens?
--I will also search ebay for deals

I put a lot of research into my recent GoPro purchase. I actually ended up going with a different camera, the YI Action camera. Its a better camera for a better price.

https://www.amazon.com/YI-Action-Sports-Camera-Control/dp/B01FU9ZIMU#nav-search-keywords

Extra batteries and a charger are a must in my opinion.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01HM8L0Z6/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1518590419&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=yi+action+camera+accessories&dpPl=1&dpID=51CLAbP-ksL&ref=plSrch

GoPro accessories fit it as well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XHSKKXE/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1518590526&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=gopro+accessories+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=61v4Wvt6YjL&ref=plSrch

I bought everything above and love it. Good luck to you in your purchase and even more luck with fatherhood!

I use Yongnuo radio triggers with my d5100. They are about $30 for a pair and have worked well for me. They'll let you remotely trigger the shutter, but you can also used them to sync off-camera flashes (manual only, no TTL).

If you buy two or more pair, you can both trigger the shutter and off-camera flashes.

My only complaint is that when syncing flashes, there seems to be a little delay. That little delay means the flashes don't go off soon enough and I sometimes see black bars at my sync speed (1/200th). I have to set my shutter a bit slower, at 1/160th to eliminate the black bars. But for $30 a pair, that's a minor thing.

Something to keep in mind when using it as both a shutter remote and flash sync: You can trigger your shutter just by plugging one into your camera with the short shutter cable. It doesn't need to be in the hot shoe for that. You can then put a flash in your hot shoe and use TTL. However, you can't remotely trigger flashes that way. To sync off-camera flashes, you have to have one trigger in your camera's hot shoe. You can then stack a flash on top of the trigger, but you'll lose TTL for that flash. The trigger in your hot shoe can also have the shutter cable attached, serving both as the receiver for the shutter button in your hand and also as the flash sync master transmitter.

The reason the flash sync requires one in the hot shoe is because even though it knows when you press the remote shutter button, it can't know how long it takes your camera to activate the shutter. If it were to guess wrong, the flash would go off at the wrong time and the light would fall on a closed shutter. The trigger in your hand activates the one plugged into your shutter release. The camera starts the process of taking a picture. Some (very short) time later, the camera sends a signal to the hot shoe. The trigger in the hot shoe (probably the same one that's plugged into your shutter release) senses that signal and only then transmits to the other triggers to fire the off-camera flashes, ensuring that the flashes go off at the correct time.

http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Wireless-Trigger-Shutter-Transceiver/dp/B004YW79F4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1405975513&sr=8-2&keywords=yongnuo+radio+trigger

Welp ended up snagging this for my Sony A6k, been meaning to grab an ultra wide and 250$ seemed like a decent deal

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K3T3G9A/ref=gbps_img_m-5_6a07_f8847614?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=e8290415-a5f1-47d2-9127-bfaea6866a07&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-5&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=13887280011&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=8M3WV1E5YYHCJ9SZJSQW

$254 for silver if that type of thing doesn't bother you.

Congrats! I don't know how it works in Australia but in the U.S Amazon is a pretty safe bet to get accessories. I definitely reccomend a good suction cup mount and the official GoPro Jaws mount, they both come in really handy.

In my experience you can either buy a relatively cheap pack of generic accessories on Amazon (which work fine). Or you can spend a little extra to get more high quality stuff like Gorillapods and Spivo sticks.

For live streaming, I think you can connect your GoPro to Periscope if you have an iOS device.

Edit: Example of a cheap accesory pack. They're not as well made as the official GoPro ones but they work well for normal use.

Keep in mind that 35mm on a 60D is not wide angle. It's normal angle field of view. It is a wide aperture lens (good for low light and shallow DOF). If you want wide aperture, that is a fine lens but this one will be a bit cheaper and be pretty much just as good. The 35mm you list is made to work on full frame and APS-C cameras, the cheaper one I list is made only to work on APS-C/Crop cameras like your 60D and as a result it's $400 cheaper.

If you want wide angle, the question is how wide. Do you want something wider than what your 18-135 can do at it's wides (18mm)? Then you're going to need a lens wider than 18mm. The lenses I'd recommend for that case are the Canon EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5, the Sigma 8-16mm, or the Tokina 11-16 f/2.8 DX II. The Sigma will the the widest, the Tokina has the widest aperture (better for low light), and the canon is in-between on both counts and a Canon, which some people like having. All are in the $600-800 range.

Yongnuo RF-603 triggers work great for me. Although, they wont be very useful if you use your speedlites in TTL mode. It only supports speedlites in manual mode.

Get an external flash. If I'd bought one of those I likely wouldn't have had a strong urge to upgrade my two kit lenses as fast as I did. This plus these and you're set. I recommend buying rechargeable batteries, you'll need 4 AA for the flash, and 2 AAA per wireless transmitter.

How important is TTL when using a single OCF?

Basically, I'm learning to use my SB700 but don't like having the sync cable attached to my camera. I'm considering a few wireless options:

Yongnuo

or

Pocket Wizard

The key question here is that I'm still figuring things out and don't know how often I'll need/want to use my flash. If I go the cheaper route, I'm limited to only using the flash in manual mode (versus the industry standard pocket wizards). So, is flash in manual mode a disadvantage for a beginner and I should go with the pricier, but more versatile PWs? Or is TTL not crucial for beginner/intermediate work?

Thanks!

I have a Sigma 10-20mm f/4.5-5.6 and love the sweeping cityscape views it can create. The lens has a built-in hyper sonic motor, so even entry level Nikon DSLR's can autofocus with it. The f/3.5 version of the lens might be helpful when shooting stars but you're going to pay a premium.

Edit: There's also the fast Samyang 14mm f/2.8. Unfortunately, it's a manual focus prime.

I've used this lens for a few years now with my own T3i for landscape/astrophotography with no complaints. It's a decent price to get started with wide angle.
https://www.amazon.com/Sigma-10-20mm-4-5-6-Digital-Cameras/dp/B0007U00X0/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Wireless-Trigger-Shutter-Transceiver/dp/B004YW79F4

An additionl tip for that, you can get a x-rite passport and take a photo of it at a shoot, in the exact light you are using, and then create your own custom calibration in lightroom. Discovering this was a major step for improving my photography.

I was very happy with my a6000 for landscapes and astrophotography. I don't think the newer models would be worth the cost unless you want much better action/video. I'd recommend the Rokinon/Samyang 12mm/2.0 for wide shots sample.

You will need some kind of wireless remote, I recommend this style for $10.

i'd honestly suggest to get a grab bag like this: https://smile.amazon.com/ZOOKKI-Accessories-Session-SJ5000X-Lightdow/dp/B01HGMKQEE/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=gopro+grab+bag&qid=1550081819&s=gateway&sr=8-14

then get some mixed connectors and you can hook the gopro to almost anything. i bought a bunch of connectors in all different sizes and orientations from aliexpress for a few € and it makes life so much easier, if you just have a lot of those and don't have to think about it too much. you can just build a few setups and not have to destruct them in order to get a new setup.

with a few connectors, you can mount the gopro on the clip in any direction you want and keep it adjustable. i'd suggest to mount it a big away from your chest. depending on your riding position, you will probably need to turn it a bit upwards, facing to the top (when sitting upright), so it does not point towards the tank but the road when you ride.

I just got this simple one off of amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Foto-Tech-Wireless-Control-Cameras/dp/B00GSAEN4A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458139992&sr=8-1&keywords=a6000+remote

It's their #1 best seller and has great reviews. It's cheap and does exactly what I need it to do.

Shooting indoors is tricky. You want as big of an aperture as possible. Your 18-55mm lens has a max aperture of f3.5 when you're at 18mm and a max aperture of f5.6 when you're at 55mm. This is fairly limiting, so you'll need to use a high ISO which will make your images noisy.

Besides the challenging light, the other challenge is how far away from the action you may be. If you're in the audience you will want as much zoom as possible.

If you're in the audience, the best lens would be something with around 200mm or more of maximum zoom. An affordable option is the 55-200mm f4-5.6. You will still have to use a fairly high ISO, but you'll have enough zoom to get in close from the audience.

Lenses with similar zoom but a large aperture start getting much more expensive, and usually come in "full frame" format for covering a bigger sensor, like the 70-200mm f2.8 for almost $3,000. It would have amazing image quality, and you wouldn't need nearly as high of ISO, but the price is prohibitive.

If you can get close to the action, then you might be able to get away with the lens you already have, or something with bigger aperture like a 50mm f1.8. The large aperture would let you get really nice shots with low ISO, but it has no zoom at all so you'd be stuck at 50mm the whole time.

In terms of settings, you can probably just use Auto-No-Flash mode, or Aperture priority set to the largest aperture your lens will allow (the smallest f number). Auto ISO in either of these modes will raise the ISO until your shutter speed is adequate.

When I shoot I don't use auto ISO. I use Aperture priority so that I can control the aperture, and would set it to the smallest f number, or largest aperture for indoors shooting. Then I would raise my ISO manually until the shutter speed is fast enough for the focal length I'm using, and fast enough to capture the action. If I was at 200mm then I would try to have a shutter speed of 1/200th of a second or faster, since when you're zoomed in more little shakes or movements are more likely to cause blur. If I was at 55mm I would only need a shutter speed of 1/55th of a second or faster.

If the subject is moving around a lot, you might need an even faster shutter speed, and might need to raise the ISO even more to avoid blurry subjects.

Hope this helps!

Ah yes, I do have a PC connector Amazon link of Yongnuo 603n. I was much too tired yesterday night to even think of that!

I'll give it a shot. Wouldn't be the worst thing in the world if it works.

Not the highest quality, but good enough for the average joe, the accessory packs available on amazon are a great deal. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XHSKKXE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_I-arzb0T0RWAX

There is the option of a mirror attachment which makes you look like you are shooting something else. https://www.amazon.com/Opteka-Digital-Cameras-Attaches-Threaded/dp/B000F49052/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1496798404&sr=1-4&keywords=mirror+for+candids

Hi,

I have a Canon Rebel T6. I'd like to buy a wide angle lens. At first, I bought like a super cheap Neewer wide angle lens (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B003M55YLU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ), but the pictures are always kinda blurry and not so good, which was to be expected. I'm looking to step up my game, without breaking the bank. I was thinking of getting the Opteka 6,5mm f/3.5 aspherycal fisheye (https://www.amazon.ca/Opteka-Aspherical-Fisheye-Removable-Digital/dp/B00KGE4VS2/ref=sr_1_21?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1498836097&sr=1-21&keywords=canon+lens) ... what would you think of it? Am I wasting my money, here? Thanks!

So something like this set?

Of course! It depends on your budget and what you want to photograph, but I highly recommend the 35mm f/1.8 prime lens. You can find it used for even less than the price listed ($200) as well. The lens is really sharp and decent for landscape and portraits. You can set your 18-55mm to the 35mm focal length to see what it looks like.

If you want a higher focal length than your 18-55mm, look at the 55-200mm lens. It is a kit lens sometimes bundled with the 18-55mm. There's also a 70-300mm if you want the extra 100mm range. These are usually best for something you need to zoom in on, like sports and wildlife.

If you want something super wide, I recommend either a Tokina 11-20mm or the Tokina 11-16mm. The 11-20mm is the sharpest and fastest autofocus of the two, but it is slightly more expensive. They are both good lenses. These are great for astrophotography, landscapes, and indoor architecture shots.

Here is an example picture of what different focal lengths look like. I hope this was helpful! If you have any more questions or want me to clarify something, let me know.

I use this intervalometer with my D3200, it works pretty well. I can use it either as a remote shutter release (just press the button), or I can set it up as if I were doing a time lapse to take a series of photos without having to press the button each time. If you have the gear for it, you can also use it to take very long exposures - an equatorial mount with tracking for AP, or something like a stack of ND filters for daytime photography. You'd just set the camera on bulb mode, and set the intervalometer for something like a five minute exposure (30s is the longest my camera can do alone).

The best system for you is probably Nikon DSLRs. They have the best low light performance for your money in the DSLR world, and being a camera manufacturer pretty much exclusively, they have looooots of lenses.

My recommendation:

Refurb D7000 - $519. 1/320 flash sync speed, plenty good in low light, pro ergonomics, works with nikon's newer and older lenses.

Lens: 50mm f1.8G. You said portraits only, so here is your best bang for your buck lens for that. $215.

Lighting: Check out the strobist 101 lighting kit. $100ish.

Flash: YN 565 + radio triggers. $150ish.

With a memory card and whatnot, that comes to around $1000 and you have a great portrait setup. But, you're limited to one focal length (albeit a very useful one). Here are some tips if you wanna push it into the $1000-2000 range:


Nikon 80-200 f2.8D - crazy bang for your buck.

Sigma 18-35 f1.8 - the best wide/normal zoom lens for aps-c cameras. The quality out of it is nothing short of astounding.

85mm f1.8G. You want shallow depth of field? You've got it.

Offer straight from Amazon (with Prime) as well

Hello Reddit, I was just given a Canon Rebel XT that was gathering dust in a friend's garage. What are some things I should do to make sure it is working properly and also what should I buy that would help me start off in photography? I was looking around and I am thinking of getting this set of lenses. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated thanks in advance!

I've played with an SB800 and an SB900 with the camera (D7100) in commander mode. They work fine in a room where the light will reflect a bit, and they're ok behind white umbrellas, but I wouldn't push the issue much further than that.

For a mid-level solution, check out [These Guys.]
(http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Wireless-Trigger-Shutter-Transceiver/dp/B004YW79F4) They work on RF so you don't have to rely on line-of-sight. They're also pretty cheap, and as an added bonus can work as a wireless shutter release. I'm waiting to get paid, and then I'm gonna order a pair of them to play with, eventually I'd like 2 pair (you need 3 to trigger 2 flash heads, and one extra never hurt anyone.) But I want to make sure they're going to work properly first. The only downside to these is that they don't do TTL, so you have to dial the flash power in manually, which doesn't matter to most people anyway.

I believe the Opetka 6.5mm is also a good value for about $179.99.

Here's a flickr gallery of the lens in action.

1. Depends on how much work you want to do and how wide your scene's dynamic range is. I started shooting raw and reduced my need for bracketing significantly, but there is a definite use for those kinds of shots; I just haven't been chasing them too hard.
   
   
2. It'll take practice and experience for sure. The even more effective solution is to support your exposure work with software in post to really smooth out the subtle exposure differences between shots. Have you heard of http://lrtimelapse.com? Liok around for some tutorial videos on how it works. As far as intervalometers go, this is a pretty cheap and wireless solution that might be worth playing with (though you'll want to triple check that it's compatible with your rig). The problem is that it still might be hard to meter your scene without touching your camera, and the very subtle changes in light and exposure settings are tricky to balance.

Magmod Basic Kit $90

Xrite Color Checker Passport $70

$30-40 is not a lot for a grip.

Here is one for $25:

http://www.amazon.com/MENGS-X-T20-L-Shaped-Compatible-Arca-Swiss/dp/B07DW559SP/

Here is one for $50:

http://www.amazon.com/Meike-Aluminum-Release-Bracket-Fujifilm/dp/B0759MTK61/

The official one is $110:

http://www.amazon.com/Fujifilm-Metal-Hand-Grip-X-T10/dp/B00Z17LR36/

It sure is. It's a little less ridiculous if you get one of those grip extenders for the bottom of the camera. The LA-EA4 is pretty magical as far as letting you use so many old lenses.

I don't really see why people are so into that particular lens, though - it's not awful but I feel like there are better longish zoom options. The 28-135, I think, is pretty deserving of its reputation though, at least for those of us who can't shell out crazy amounts of cash for a modern zoom. Especially combined with good correction profiles it really holds its own.

I have the Sigma 8-16mm, but for semi-fisheye (even wider), I use a 6.5mm Opteka ultrawide; $149 new on Amazon; well built, so used lenses should be good. Love it; hugely wide distorted, (but not too distorted) landscapes, and deliberately distorted closeups; 12" minimum focus distance.

Opteka 6.5mm f/3.5 HD Aspherical Fisheye Lens & Removable Hood for Canon EOS Digital SLR Cameras
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KGE4VS2/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_S5SSAbQKAWC8M

If you want to test out macro buy some cheap extension tubes. They will let you focus closer but with some light loss

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BXZ9ALQ/

So, did you do as the Romans do?

You might enjoy trying out a super-secret spy lens for your street portraiture.

Didn't realize the IV had a radio transmitter in the first place. Might just go with the 560 III, and I actually wanted to use a manual flash, not TLL. Are there any wireless triggers I could buy for the flash? I saw a few but didn't know if I should drop on any of them or not, specifically this one Thanks for the help! Is there anything else you recommend or have an input on before I go off and purchase it?

I bought a slightly used Sigma 8-16mm f/4.5-5.6 off Amazon a while ago, it works great on my D3300. It's not cheap but you might be able to find a deal on a used one.

If you are into landscapes then I highly recommend it. If you don't have a portrait lens yet look into Canon's Portrait and Travel Lens Kit. It comes with the 10-18mm as well as a 50mm f/1.8 prime. Two of my favorite lenses and it's a crazy good deal.

the 55-200 is $146 on amazon right now. https://www.amazon.com/Nikon-55-200MM-Vibration-Reduction-Cameras/dp/B00RUBK53Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478981692&sr=8-1&keywords=nikkor+55-200

It's hard to say because different focal lengths produce different effects. You can read up about it. I recommend this book to cover the basics. It also explains where everything is on the camera.

https://www.amazon.com/Nikon-D5300-Snapshots-Great-Shots-ebook/dp/B00IHZKDI4

The one issue that you'll have with this lens is when you can't back up far enough to fit the entire subject into the frame such as when you're indoors.

I work as a web developer and sometimes need shots of tiny rooms so I also user this fish eye lens

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007U00XK

It's slightly lower quality but it fits everything into the frame.

Are you using these? I don't see how a bracket doesn't have room for them.

> require the hotshoe to plug directly into the mount.

As opposed to where? I don't exactly understand.

Personally I use one of these because you can screw the foot into a tripod (standard 1/4 inch) or stand it up on a table by itself. I use an SB-28 with those triggers with no problem.

Without knowing what your budget is, or what you need out of the lens, I think /u/visavita hit it on the head with the Sigma. It's the cheapest.

Here's a few more I found with a DP Review search. All under $600. All with auto focus. All non-fishy.

Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6 EX DC HSM $430

Tamron AF 10-24mm f/3.5-4.5 SP Di II LD Aspherical (IF) $460

Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 AT-X116 Pro DX II $570

Tokina AF 12-24mm f/4 AT-X 124 Pro DX II $500

I really like my Sigma 10-20mm, should fit in your budget ($429, Nikon, Canon), new.

I'm going to Hong Kong on the 18-26th, then Taipei from the 26-30th! I am doing some major soul-searching and giving a break from my daily routine :) Lots of hiking and pictures! Might look into a tripod + this for some awesome selfies!

Got the xt-20 two months. I love it. I primarily shoot street and I haven't enjoyed the act of using a camera this much in a while. You will still face some challenges of moving to a mirrorless system though - its not as fast as my Nikon. But that tradeoff is worth it for how compact, beautiful, and nimble this camera is. I also suggest buying a hand grip. If you have big hands, it will be hard holding it. Here's the one I got. The official one is 3x more expensive.

you can buy an intervalometer from amazon for $15 and use your t6i for time-lapse shots. they both share the same 24mp sensor, so image quality will be identical. If it was me, i would get the t6i, because of the higher focus points, but that's because I only take stills and 9 point is too low when you are taking stills.

Recently bought a few knick knacks for mine.

• ICE 67mm ND1000 Filter Neutral Density ND 1000 67 10 Stop Optical Glass, great price and has a lot of great reviews.
  
  
• Manfrotto MTPIXIEVO-BK PIXI EVO 2 Section Mini Tripod, needed a little tripod I could carry with me everywhere.
  
  
• Foto&Tech IR Wireless Remote Control for Sony Alpha Cameras, useful for all occasions.
  
  
• B+W 67mm CLEAR UV HAZE MRC (010M), just a little extra protection when the weather is bad. Great quality brass ring.
  
  
• 49 mm - 67 mm Filter Adapter Step-Up, so I can use the filters on my 55-210mm.
  
  
• Case Logic SLRC-203, needed a new bag that could fit everything, including big tripod and found this.
  

I have a D7000 with the Sigma 8-16mm and love it. The D7000 has very good high-ISO performance which can help with the only issue the Sigma has (it is pretty slow). You said you already have some fast lenses, so go with the Sigma. I have fast lenses too, but nothing can touch the width of the Sigma.

Many people decry the lack of filter use on the Sigma, but in my experience I haven't felt a need for one. Polarizing filters don't work so well on ultrawides anyways, and if I needed a graduated filter effect, LR has a pretty good one or I can just bracket.

The Sigma is the only non-Nikkor lens I have but it feels right at home in my collection. The case is quite nice and also fits my 17-55 f2.8 which is very handy (and a great companion to the Sigma).

If you didn't have other fast lenses, I might not suggest the Sigma and steer you towards the (fantastic) Tokina, but I wanted a wide lens and nothing is close to the Sigma there.

except for an old 70-210 vivitar I almost never use that was a gift.

Edit: If you want, PM me your location and if you are close, I will let you try out my Sigma.

Yeah, it's stupid. But they guarantee color consistency and color accuracy. There are some cheaper models available, but the X-Rite pocket is the most convenient, as it has a built in protective plastic case.

Here is a link to one more reasonably priced

You're going to want a wide-angle lens. With that in mind, most wide-angle lenses are for full-frame cameras. Think Canon 6D or 7D and big bucks.

However, I use a Canon T2i with a Sigma 10-20MM which is a much more palatable price.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007U00X0/

You'll also need a good tripod and remote, plus extra batteries, chargers, SD cards, a good bag/backpack, lens filters, and probably lights. I've been able to get away without lights for now.

Then you need to decide what you're going to do with the pictures once you shoot them... are you going to offer them on a website? Will your clients want them resized and named? Will you be taking HDR (bracketed) shots? You'll probably have to do some post-processing which will need Photoshop or something similar.

Honestly, it really is a pain in the ass. I only do it because I had most of the equipment and I do the websites. My main business is Real Estate Websites and I got into doing the photos because it was just easier for me... and my main client firm pays half for the realtors, which makes the pricing better for them.

Hi guys!

I'm traveling to Iceland soon to see the Northern Lights. As much as I want to remember it with my eyes, I haven't been able to trust my memory that well lately. I was wondering if using my Canon 7D Mark II, I could capture some incredible pictures/videos. Any advice would help! I'm not new to photography, but I'm relatively ignorant to a lot of settings (i.e. how I can get good pictures by adjusting my settings).

The lenses I'm working with are:

• 50mm f/1.8 and 10-18mm Lenses
  
  
• Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II USM Lens
  
  
• Sigma 24mm F1.4 ART DG HSM Lens for Canon
  
  I'm not really looking to buy any other lenses at the moment either, so this is what I have to work with. Any suggestions on how to get the best shot would be great!
  
  (On a side note, if anyone has any suggestions on photographing the Blue Lagoon, I'd gladly accept it :) )

I work in the software industry. There's no such thing as a "super straight forward" feature on a high end consumer electronic device like the A7. Every feature gets a design doc, project plan, quality assurance cycle, and user testing. Documentation has to be written; both for the user manual and the in-camera guide. That documentation has to be professionally translated into at least half a dozen languages

Programming is often a trivial part of adding a feature.

With an unsupported 3rd party add-on, doing something like that is no big deal. Support what languages you want. If it sucks or it's broken, release an update. It's not going to create black marks on your camera review.

And as far as it goes, you can use a cheap intervalometer do do what you're asking. Set the camera to 3 shot bracket burst (or whatever you want). Set the release to whatever schedule you like, in bulb mode with an exposure long enough to take 3 shots. This $30 unit will do the trick: http://amzn.com/B017GY5KWA

I shoot macro photography and the A7R3 actually loses the 3rd party app to create focus stacks. So, I have more reason than you to be annoyed with Sony.

Here is a screw-on fisheye attachment that will fit on a kit lens, is cost-effective, and will probably have a nice lo-fi look.
And Here is a lens, pretty cost-effective as lenses go, and may have better build and image quality.

The closest I've come to a fisheye on my t3i is Canon's 10-22, and I love it.

If I were you I'd go out and try to shoot some landscape photography with your 18-55mm lens and take a look at the shots afterwards to determine if the wide-angle is necessary. 18mm is pretty wide and would work well for a lot of landscape shots but you go shooting with it and if you think you need a bit wider then go for it!

Getting a telephoto lens would, like you said, give you a wider range of shots and would be great for wildlife photography when you're out shooting landscapes and spot a deer, or other animal.

Another lens you might want to consider is the Canon 50mm f/1.8 which is great for portraits and it's only $110.

There's this bundle here for $350 it includes the 10-18mm lens you mentioned as well as the 50mm lens I mentioned.

Some other options:

Canon 24mm f/2.8 which is a lot of people on this sub recommend as a good general purpose lens. ($150)

Samyang 14mm f/2.8 is another highly recommend wide-angle lens mentioned on this sub, manual focus only but it's cheap! ($300)

Edit:

Also, check out this thread from yesterday! It was basically asking people from this sub what their favorite relatively cheap lens were and I found it extremely helpful.

Thanks! Like connorirw said, a tripod and long shutter speed is a necessity. That image in particular was taken over a 4 hour period to track the star movement. It's possible to get an effect like this with an exposure close to that length in bulb mode, but I find it's better to make a composite with several images stacked. This reduces noise and allows for the removal of any bad frames(like planes flying through the shot, etc).

So I focused on the stars and used f3.5, ISO 500, with 30sec exposures being taken over and over for the 4 hours. There are modes on most(all?) DSLRs for continuous shooting, but I used an intervalometer to set it up. At Sunrise I took another image with the lake in focus at a narrower aperture to add after creating the startrails.

Then I began the processing. I used an application called Starstax to create the composite image, which I exported to photoshop to blend the foreground in. I set the foreground layer mode to lighten and played around with a gradient filter to ensure the trails stayed bright.
This was my first attempt blending a brighter foreground layer with startrails in this way. It was trickier than I initially thought, and I'm not completely happy with the result. I typically light paint the specific foreground subject I want to focus on, which makes the editing much easier.

Sorry for the long post, hope it helped.

You can consider a Sony a6000 or a6300 paired with a Rokinon 12mm f/2 or Sigma 16mm f/1.4 depending on your budget. If you need help shopping in Canada give me a shout. I'm in Canada too. Is there a reason you absolutely must buy from Henry's?

You can grab an a6000 open box at bestbuy canada https://www.bestbuy.ca/en-ca/product/sony-sony-a6000-mirrorless-camera-with-16-50mm-lens-kit-open-box-400100792452/10400986.aspx? for $599.99. the kit lens will work alright for daytime and videos during the day. It's got optical stabilization.

Then you can pick up the rokinon on amazon. https://www.amazon.ca/Rokinon-RK12M-Mount-Cameras-Silver/dp/B00K3T3G9A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1518734151&sr=8-3&keywords=rokinon+12mm+sony it's the best price in Canada right now I think. $362.85

Or if you really need the autofocus for wide get the sigma https://www.vistek.ca/store/CameraLenses/420671/sigma-contemporary-16mm-f14-dc-dn-lens-for-sony-emount.aspx but it's much more expensive and autofocus is 100% useless for astrophotography.

EDIT: I took these two with a6000 + rokinon 12mm https://i.redd.it/kk8ryiz1gtcz.jpg and this one with a sigma 30mm f/2.8 https://i.redd.it/o3vzv0ler66z.jpg

If you have a mac and a camera, just plug it in and have the Image Capture utility auto shoot every x number of seconds.

If not, either get a camera that has this ability built in, or get a timelapse specific attachment for your camera such as this one.

Once you have all the shots taken (I recommend 1 shot every 1 or 2 minutes) put them into a video editor (imovie works well but others should be fine) and set the frames to say .1 seconds each. Export that resulting series of frames as a movie and voila!

I made this timelapse using this technique.

OR

Get a smartphone timelapse app and just set your phone up to shoot the shots. Downside to this is that you wont have a phone for the duration of the print :( but it'll take care of almost everything else including exporting a video for you :)

Oh man, that's a nice camera! You're going to have tons of fun with that.

You do probably want to use the bulb setting, although you don't have to. I think the a6000 will do up to a 30" exposure without a remote. I use this timer because it lets you totally customize and automate your picture-taking. For example, you can do a nighttime time-lapse movie by taking, say, a 30 second exposure every 2 minutes for 6 hours, and you can program that all into the remote so that it will work while you sleep. Definitely a worthwhile investment if you want to get into any kind of photography.

Yeah, too bad this doesn't exist

(Although maybe I was mistaken about the FF, looks like it's EF-S)

I'm looking into buying a wide angle lens for my Canon t6i rebel. I want to use it primarily for youtube (record myself) but I don't want to end up buying another lens in the future. I've had my eyes on the Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 AT-X116 Pro DX II, the Canon EF-S 10-18mm f/4.5-5.6 IS STM Lens, the Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6 EX DC HSM Lens, and the Tamron AF 10-24mm f/3.5-4.5 SP Di II LD Aspherical. For the more expensive one's over $300 I do plan on getting them used. In my situation I think regardless of what lens I may get I'll be using a softbox for lighting. I know lower aperature is better but I cannot distinguish the quality of the lenses. Any recommedations and where I could buy used lenses at a lower price?

100% my fault. Samyang rebrands a number of their lenses under different names, including Rokinon. Anyway, here are a few shots: https://imgur.com/a/9rVyhcP

FYI the shot of the flower uses the Rokinon 85mm + Meike macro tube (https://www.amazon.com/Meike-Automatic-Extension-Mount-NEX-5R/dp/B00BXZ9ALQ)

TTL can be nice in certain situations depending on what he's shooting, but yeah, a ~$30 price drop per transceiver for losing TTL is significant.

Hey OP: http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Wireless-Trigger-Shutter-Transceiver/dp/B004YW79F4/

I used to shoot on a d5200.

Tbh, not having vr on a 300mm is going to make it incredibly difficult to get handheld shots. Basically the only way to reduce camera shake will be to get a tripod and remote shutter.

I wouldn't recommend it.

What I WOULD recommend is just buying the body, and getting the Nikkor 35mm f/1.8G. That'll be your go to landscape lens. Maybe a titch long considering the crop factor but that lens is the best you can get for the price. Then pick up a used 70-200 vr like this guy.

That kit might be a bit more than your budget rn but it'll improve your photography by a mile. The kit 18-55mm isn't a great lens, and while it's great for learning I wouldn't recommend it long term.

I just upgraded to an a7ii. I'm looking to possibly sell my d5200 kit with the kit lens, that zoom, and the 35mm. If you're interested you can hit me up and maybe we can make a deal, no pressure though. Just figured I'd mention it.

I bought the official grip from Fuji (MHG-XT10), which was painfully expensive. It marries perfectly to the body, though, in terms of size, weight, materials, comfort - it makes a big difference in handling and looks great. At the time, the only other options I knew about were cheap looking plasticy grips off Ebay.

However, if I was buying a grip today, I would probably go for the recently released Meike XT20G, which looks to be a copy of the Fuji grip at less than half the price.

I use a $10 Foto&Tech remote off Amazon, it worked on my a6000 and works now it works on my a7rii
https://www.amazon.com/Foto-Tech-Wireless-Control-Cameras/dp/B00GSAEN4A/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1510695460&sr=8-4&keywords=sony+camera+wireless+remote

I want to get a lighting set up for a home studio. I was going to get some youngnuo flashes from amazon. However, how do I find a set of 1 trigger and 3 receivers for a 3 point light set up?

In this amazon pckg it looks like I only have one set. are they all synced to the same frequency?

http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Wireless-Trigger-Shutter-Transceiver/dp/B004YW79F4/ref=pd_bxgy_p_text_z


Any tutorials good tutorials for these flashes? I been looking but wound up with 1hr vids where the photogapher talks 90% about how cool he is and 10% of how to use the product.

I have a speedlite and just gave up trying to use it last summer, because it was so hard to use. The power was so strong. I tried one of those caps to diffuse but it seemed futile

60mm micro - $200

d7000 kit - $700 (look for a kit so you get extra lenses for other lifestyle work)

Yonguno Flash - $75

Wireless kit - $35.

You're $10 over your limit but you'll probably make that up with a smart purchase on the 60mm or d7000 kit.

It's on Amazon for as low as 329 used, 430 new: http://www.amazon.com/Sigma-10-20mm-4-5-6-Digital-Cameras/dp/B0007U00XK
Only if you compare to the overpriced consumer stores is this a deal.

I absolutely love my Sigma 10-20mm.

You don't get the f2.8 speed, but otherwise it's a fantastic ultra-wide for the price.

just this but at a much cheaper price

There is a nikon version: http://www.amazon.com/Sigma-10-20mm-4-5-6-Digital-Cameras/dp/B0007U00XK/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1321397454&sr=1-1

Sigma 10-20, $469

No, it isn't 2.8, but that's not likely for your price range and other requirements.

Just use one of these.

http://www.amazon.com/Opteka-Voyeur-Right-Angle-Canon/dp/B000F49052

I have* a Neewer remote that does pretty close to what you want, and I use it to do this.
It's a corded remote, so set the delay to however long it'll take you to get in the shot.
Leave the bulb alone - instead set exposure on your camera.
Leave interval at 1 (as low as it goes), and it'll take a picture every one second. Not quite burst, but close.
Set the number to however many photos you want to take.
Leave the sound on, and if you have good ears, you'll hear when it's done from where you are.

• I don't actually have a Neewer, I have some even cheaper knockoff version. I think they all come from the same factory anyway. Mine was $15. Just find what kind of remote plugin you need and search Amazon for that.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KGE4VS2/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464727500&sr=sr-1&keywords=opteka+fisheye

He sounds serious enough that he might appreciate the Colorchecker Passport. Shoot a photo of the color patchwork under the conditions in your studio (or any shoot, really) and use the bundled software to adjust the color of your photos to be precisely correct.
http://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-MSCCPP-ColorChecker-Passport-Software/dp/B002NU5UW8

I am looking to buy an ultra wide lens for my Canon 6D, so that I can photograph buildings, especially in places like Europe, where there may not be a whole lot of room to move back to capture the entire building. I am considering getting a Sigma, but I am debating between the Sigma 10-20mm f/3.5 and the Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6. Is the 10-20mm f/3.5 worth it to get over the f/4-5.6 for shooting buildings or should I save my money and stick with f/4-5.6? Anything else that I should consider?

Is this a good intervelometer for my d3200? does anyone have any better suggestions

For $100 you could get 2 of these. Then get all this so you can mount them any way you like.

You can shop around and find even cheaper actioncams. Just make sure it is well reviewed. They wont be as good as the latest gopro, and they'll only capture a license plate number under ideal conditions, but if you ride in traffic often and arent willing to spend much, these are great.

One of them only works on Canon's low-end DSLRs too :/

This.



This.



And this.


If you don't foresee yourself getting into videos, save some cash and go back to the t2i. The articulating screen is honestly the only advantage with the t3i, especially if you throw magic lantern on an sd card.

My first DSLR was a Canon 350D (with a similar crop sensor to yours). After coming to the conclusion that I wanted a wide angle (and doing some research), I scraped money together for the Sigma 10-20mm f/4
I LOVED it. It was cheaper than the canon equivalent and held up to years of faithful service.
Years later I'm shooting with a 5DII and knowing myself, dove back into research to get myself a worthy wide angle that would work on a full-frame.
I had this same dilemma, and in the end, the Canon 16-35mm f/2.8 won out for very basic reasons.
If you're a working professional, and you're going to upgrade, get something worth your money- this meant going from f/4 to f/2.8.
The sigma was and is lovely, dependable and easy on the wallet, but it does me very little good now.

The general concept is really easy. Maybe it's just the times I've tried it, but I would have expected the moon to track a little more.

Most cameras should be able to let you do up to 30s of exposure. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but Canons don't have the functionality to go beyond that, while Nikon does (don't ask me about any others). Because it has a million different names, let's just say that if you own a Canon, you may have to get a doohickey to allow for > 30 seconds.

To start, I wouldn't even worry about filters. Just try out different times and aperture settings. If you want lights to have a more starburst type effect, you need to make sure you shutter smaller (larger f/#) and go for a longer time.

Here are some of my others:

https://i.imgur.com/wzt6fit.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/o7wpcxj.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Y1bw0SF.jpg

i did try it and yes x-t30 feels small and i'm thinking to get a grip to it, something like this one

Is this what you're referring to?
https://www.amazon.com/Sigma-10-20mm-4-5-6-Digital-Cameras/dp/B0007U00XK

Thanks!

I said one of many grip extenders. There are many options ranging from 15-60 dollars.

(was $50)
https://www.amazon.com/MK-X1EM-Bracket-A7MIII-a7RIII-Camera/dp/B07D36LPFW/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538874940&sr=8-3-fkmr0&keywords=sony+a7iii+grip+extender

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Battery-Grip-VG-C3EM-for-Sony-Alpha-A7iii-A7Riii-and-A9-Digital-Camera/192671676735?hash=item2cdc20793f:g:7kYAAOSwV45buLhH

I use the L bracket grip extender. Two in one solution for landscape photographers. A Canon EOS-R will be much bigger when you add an L bracket, and the Canon EOS-R will have the not so hidden costs of having camera & video specs from 2014 at the retail price of $2,300, a bigger body that cannot be made smaller for smaller setups

https://www.amazon.com/AFVO-L-Bracket-Cameras-Removable-Extender/dp/B07FX42FJH/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1538874940&sr=8-2&keywords=sony+a7iii+grip+extender

When I do video work I prefer a much smaller and lighter camera for gimble work, same when I use my smaller MF Zeiss lenses or small 1.8 or f2 prime lenses when I want to travel light and small. When I use my huge 2.8 GM zoom lenses or huge 1.4 lenses, I use a battery grip or grip extender. Best of both worlds when you start off with a smaller camera.

I currently have the two kit lenses, 18-55 and 70-300. I also have a Helios 44m-4 and a 55-200. I wouldn't call my collection impressive by any means lol

I just got my first ultra wide angle lens, and I'm hoping somebody can clear up a little confusion I'm having.

A couple of days ago, I purchased this Sigma 10-20mm lens. The person was selling it dirt cheap since it has a minor cosmetic knick on it, so I figured why not.

I was in a hurry and I didn't do the amount of research I usually would. I just used Amazon's little "Will this lens work with my camera?" tool. I input my camera - a full frame Canon 6D, and the tool said yes, it'll work.

Now that I have the lens, I've been doing more research on it, and it looks like while it will fit on a full frame body, it was developed specifically for crop sensors?

I get this large black circle around the border at 10mm. Here's an example I just shot:

http://i.imgur.com/F2sVCzc.jpg

At 20mm, the picture looks perfectly normal through the viewfinder, however when you go to review it, there's still significant blackness around the edges, as seen here:

http://i.imgur.com/6xsIYC6.jpg

Is this just the normal result of putting a lens designed for a crop sensor onto a full frame body?

It depends on the ones you buy, maybe. Look for the metal connectors like these and you should still have autofocus... https://www.amazon.com/Meike-Automatic-Extension-E-Mount-NEX-5R/dp/B00BXZ9ALQ

I have an X-T10 with the same issue and the only way to solve that is to get a grip like this one.

I had that same issue! I bought a cheap remote on Amazon and it is amazing, fixed all of the issues, and honestly, I prefer it. It’s wireless and has a physical shutter button instead of a display with no feedback, plus it doesn’t make any changes to your settings because it basically acts like a normal trigger

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017GY5KWA

I got the grip as well. Love it! I still shoot my Nikons still, but less and less now days. You are going to be very happy. I would also recommend the Meike Hand Grip it is very comfortable and has a built in Arca Swiss compatible plate built in.

Interesting choice of lens, don't see too many adapted FD lenses on Sony bodies. Have you considered a cheap set of macro tubes? These look good.

I also have a Sony, the A7III but it shares the same body.

The grip's I'm talking about are not the battery grip kind but the Sony extended grip or the Meike version. I bought the Meike version and even though it added about .75" to the bottom dimension of the camera it improved the handholding considerably which IMO is more important then size for walking around.

Meike

Sony

The reason I suggest these is because I believe they both have the extra accessory mount screw hole on the bottom, and You could easily modify it or just tie it around and pinch it onto the camera to attach your strap.

If you are fairly handy too you could probably drill a hole in one of the trusses in bottom to slip the peak design strap dongle thing to if you dont like the idea of pinching it.


Overall though, I really like the Meike Grip, I had a similar situation as you where I'd leave the tripod mount on the bottom and it was uncomfortable to hold, so Id throw it in my backpack and lose it, with this grip I straight up don't need my tripod mount anymore which is nice, and I feel comfortable holding it sans straps because its much more comfortable.

Thank you for the response! Do you think this deal on amazon would be worth the purchase regarding the 10-18 and the 50? https://www.amazon.com/Canon-Portrait-Travel-10-18mm-Lenses/dp/B01LEEY6CS/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=Canon+EF-S+10-18mm+f%2F4.5-5.6+IS+STM+Lens&qid=1550809677&s=gateway&sr=8-5

this one?

https://www.amazon.ca/NIKON-AF-S-NIKKOR-55-200mm-4-5-6G/dp/B00RUBK53Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492709594&sr=8-1&keywords=nikon+55-200

honestly it's because I was looking at lenses under 200CAD but this is definitely in my price range. Any reason this is better over the ones I had originally linked? I'm a lense noob so feel free to enlighten me.

Well it doesn't seem anyone is interested/is to nervous of it being a scam so I'm just gonna post a few that I came across today. These might not all be good flips, that's why I want people who know what they're doing.

1. Sells for $75 https://www.amazon.com/Dirt-Devil-Accucharge-Cordless-BD20035RED/dp/B002FYYZFK/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1492536612&sr=8-1&keywords=BD20035RED Buy it here for $24
   
   http://www.bestbuy.com/site/dirt-devil-accucharge-bagless-cordless-stick-vac-red/9501185.p?skuId=9501185
   After fees that's $28 profit (not including inbound shipping
   
   
2. Sells for $16 https://www.amazon.com/GoPro-Protective-Lens-and-Covers/dp/B00F19Q3S8/ref=sr_1_1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1492540296&sr=8-1&keywords=ALCAK-302
   Buy it here for $7
   http://www.bestbuy.com/site/gopro-protective-lens-and-covers-kit-black/1667096.p?skuId=1667096&productCategoryId= This leaves about $3.60 proft per unit, (without inbound shipping) which is about a 50% margin. To small for me to bother with, but someone might want it.
   
   
3. My third just went out of stock as I was making this comment, sorry. Hope someone gets a little use out of this.
   
   Edit: Also this https://www.amazon.com/GoPro-Wrist-Housing-Official-Mount/dp/B00CTGGARU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492538694&sr=8-1&keywords=GoPro+-+Wrist+Housing Can be sourced for $15 here: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/gopro-wrist-housing-black/8316045.p?skuId=8316045&productCategoryId=
   Might be able to make some money as an FBA seller, but there's a newer version of the product and limited sales data so I don't know how that will turn out.

This one would be my best guess or go for a much less expensive sigma.

That is a nice lens and does exactly what I want but I just found these two lenses that I really like. Are you familiar with them?

http://www.amazon.com/Sigma-10-20mm-4-5-6-Digital-Cameras/dp/B0007U00XK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418439271&sr=8-1&keywords=sigma+10-20mm+f%2F4-5.6+ex+d+hsm&pebp=1418439276830

http://www.amazon.com/Tokina-11-16mm-AT-X116-Digital-Cameras/dp/B0014Z3XMC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1418439061&sr=8-2&keywords=tokina+11-16mm+f%2F2+at-x116+pro+dx&pebp=1418439086107


which one would you recommend? DO you think the extra cash is worth getting the Tokina 11-16mm? Again I really appreciate you helping me out thanks :D

So I have a Canon T3i and a 50mm f/1.8 II. In the near future, I will be purchasing a new lens. I'm still a newbie, so I don't really have a specific style and I just shoot what's in front of me. I've been doing predominantly street photography and auto photography, but i'm also looking to branch out. It's come to my attention that I should have a wide angle lens in my arsenal as I was begging for a wider perspective when I went to my first auto show a couple weeks ago. It made framing weird, and I had to move back which was quite inconvenient in a packed show like that. I also love landscapes and views so I want something wide to capture those as well.
Here are some of the choices I'm considering.
Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8

Canon EF-S 10-18mm f/4.5-5.6 IS STM

Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6 EX DC HSM Lens

Tamron AF 10-24mm f/3.5-4.5 SP Di II LD Aspherical (IF) Lens

There are also a couple lenses that I have stumbled upon that are not as wide, but have a longer focal length which may double as more than just a wide-angle.

Tamron SP AF 17-50mm F/2.8 XR Di II LD Aspherical (IF) Lens (really have my eye on this one!)

Canon EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Standard Zoom Lens

This is all a bit confusing for a noob like me, so any help is appreciated it. If you feel like there is a better option, please do recommend it to me! And also, i'm on a working-class student budget.

One last question, how do you feel about used lenses. Just curious towards your experiences as i feel like they can be bargains. Lenses are built to last a long time if they're taken care of right? Sorry for the long post but thanks in advanced!

If you bought a wireless remote it not going to work on the D3100. You need a wired one to work correctly. This one will work and give you more options than the oem nikon one. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y2YTEE/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_AGZPub1PB96F6

Hey!

I got a little issue regarding my DSLR camera (Canon 4000D) (I know it doesn´t have a good reputation, but I just got started in photography and didn´t wanna spend too much money on my first camera)... So, the problem is, that I recently bought an intervalometer for my Canon 4000D to get started in taking time-lapses, but soon after I bought it, I realized that there is no port at my camera to connect the intervalometer with it. Also, the adapter cables I got from the package with the intervalometer do not fit.

The only 2 ports that my camera has are HDMI and (I think) mini USB b type. Do you know if there is any possible way to connect the regular jack connection from the intervalometer with my camera? Or connect an intervalometer with the camera in general.

This is the intervalometer I got:

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Shutter-Release-Remote-Control/dp/B0081EC08M/ref=sr_1_4?crid=34LO8ERMFRZWR&keywords=intervalometer+canon&qid=1555961227&s=gateway&sprefix=intervalometer+%2Caps%2C229&sr=8-4

I just can´t find any solution online and really wanna start doing time-lapses...

Yep, super cheap too; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BXZ9ALQ/

Xiaomi Yi. Banggood You can buy two of them, two waterproof housings (Also from Banggood), and 3rd party GoPro mounts (From Amazon) for $200.

The Xiaomi Yi does 2k video and 16MP stills - so it won't be DSLR quality, but you can get some nice photos and videos with them.

What do you guys think of this Canon 50mm f/1.8 and 10-18 f/4.5-5.6 bundle? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LEEY6CS/ref=twister_B017OAXTL0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I have a T5i and I want to get into portraits mainly indoors in a budget studio I am setting up in my room. I think the 10-18mm will be nice for vacations because I go up mountains and fire towers in the Adirondacks which gives me access to amazing sights that usually require my phone's panoramic mode.

I am a bit nervous about the 50mm though because of the crop sensor of the t5i and the limited space of my bedroom studio. Should I instead go for a 24mm f/2.8? Problem there being that there is no 10-18 bundle with Canon's 24mm :(

Would this work?

If lenses are out, then what about light?

Get a flash and some radio triggers, it'll change the way you do things.

I tried a similar thing with two sets of Cactus triggers - it didn't work. Dealing with the poor quality cheapo triggers got to be a pain, especially if one part of a set died.

I ended up buying these transceivers, which are freaking awesome. I get ~100yd range out of them, and they also work as a remote cable release.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CIRTH4/ref=oh_o04_s00_i00_details

is what i have now, and

http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-NPT-04-Channel-Wireless-Receiver/dp/B002W3IXZW/ref=pd_bxgy_p_img_b

is what i was gonna look into getting. but someone below said he uses something that is almost as just as cheap so maybe these might work? what do you think?

http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Wireless-Trigger-Shutter-Transceiver/dp/B004YW79F4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1334613115&sr=8-4

Thanks /u/lamic

I looked through your post and recommendations, it looks awesome! I know I really should wait for the Hero5 but I'm not sure if I can wait.


I started to put a list of things I want/need into a spreadsheet, to start looking at Price. I have Amazon Prime so I'm thinking about ordering everything through Amazon.


Can you take a quick look through my list and see if everything checks out and if I missed anything for "Basic" operations? Then could you make any more recommendations, or let me know what my next purchases should be?

• GoPro HERO4 SILVER- $338
  
  
  
• Memory Card Lexar 64GB- $35, Looks like the cheapest one between Sandisk Extreme and Lexar, Lexar currently is the cheapest on Amazon
  
  
• Batteries - Wasabi Power Battery (2-Pack)- $22, Read a few reviews and people said they like these batteries a lot. Should give me enough juice and let me know how long I can record with, until I'm completely dead.
  
  
  
• Protection Lens - $7 I really just need to lens protector, in the reviews people are saying some parts don’t fit the Hero4 only the Hero3. Or should I put the $20 version off the actual GoPro site?
  
  
• GoPro The Tool – $4, Like you requested and reading some comments it looks like it would be worth it.
  
  
• A basic Card Reader - $7, did a quick google search on best card readers this one popped up for best for it’s price.
  
  
• SANDMARC® Pole - $40, Looked up some reviews and people tend to like this one. It seems like is always recommended to have some kind of stick or holdable mount to start off with. Also could you go into a little more detail about mounting the GoPro?
  
  
• Pelican Case -$25 I like the idea of it being waterproof and I like to be organized with my stuff. So this looks like a perfect fit. And it will be an awesome case to travel with.
  
  
• Kingston 5-in-1 Mobile Companion - $35 I was watching some videos and it seems like this could be a cool little gadget to have. I would mostly use it for “mobile uploads to Hard Drives”. Working in IT I know how important it is to have backups, and this will let me get around bringing a laptop to the resort and other stuff. This is the video I’m referring too that shows you how to upload to a HD with out a computer.
  
  
  So with everything in my cart I’m sitting at $488 which is with in my budget.
  
  I’m still reading about the remote. That might be something we add down the line. I think I’ll be pretty content with just my phone app or getting the “waterproof touch screen” case cover too.
  
  Do you think this is a good setup? Will this get me going? Do you have any recommendations, or anything that I should add or not buy yet?
  

X-rite passport. $100 or so, but if you want to be confident about your colors, get it.

Can you connect some kind of remote to the camera? The connector looks something like a headphone jack, but it would probably be easiest to just search for name_of_camera remote on amazon - it should look similar to this and would allow you to expose however long you wish, for a set length or in an interval.

Although just having a longer exposure isn't actually as helpful as you might think - the trails just start overlapping (this is 92s) and at some point the pictures just kind of all look the same - having control of exactly when the exposure starts and ends is very nice.

I found them on Amazon. $30 is a fine price, but I'm getting 2 pieces, so that's my camera and one flash, correct? If I pick up a second flash (SB-28 or another recommendation), I'd need another set-of-two RF-603's, correct?

Explain to me what this is and what's the difference?

You need a wider lens. The smaller the Xmm number is the wider angle of view a lens has. For instance a 10mm Lens will show a lot more of the room than a 18mm lens. If you have a nikon I would suggest getting the [Sigma 10-20mm] (http://www.amazon.com/Sigma-10-20mm-4-5-6-Digital-Cameras/dp/B0007U00X0) - The downside of a wide lens is that you will get distortion. What I mean by this is if you have a wall or a door in the corner of your image it will look bent and not straight. You will have to straighten it in photoshop later.

P.s I am a professional real estate photographer, let me know if you have any questions I would be more than happy to help you.

I don't really know whether ones better than the other. I owned a D40 but I've never used a D70 nor really looked at them.

You can do a quick comparison here - http://snapsort.com/compare/Nikon_D40-vs-Nikon_D70

But either way, you are better investing in lenses rather than the body. So I would say get whatever one is cheapest so you have more money for a good lens.

I'm not really sure what to recommend in terms of continuous lighting as everything cheap I've used has always sucked but you could pick up a Yongnuo flash. The set up with a flash would probably be about £75 (There iwll be cheapest places for some of this stuff).

This might be a bit over kill to begin with but some links anyway just in case:

flash and triggers:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/YONGNUO-YN-560-II-ELECTRONIC-SPEEDLIGHT/dp/B009APY9TO/
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Yongnuo-Wireless-Trigger-Shutter-Transceiver/dp/B004YW79F4/

Stand, bracket and umbrella:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Photography-Light-professional-studio-photolamps/dp/B0011363NS/ref=pd_bxgy_ph_img_z

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Flash-Shoe-Umbrella-Light-Stand-Holder-Bracket-Mount-B-/390442523341?pt=UK_Photography_StudioEquipment_RL&hash=item5ae8301acd

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/33-Studio-Flash-Translucent-White-Diffuser-Umbrella-/190507468777?pt=UK_Photography_StudioEquipment_RL&hash=item2c5b2147e9

The lens is reviewed here, and I used a el cheapo intervalometer that works perfectly.

The Yongnuo RF-603 (sold in pairs) is a dual mode transceiver that you can also use as a remote flash trigger. It's cheaper than the official Nikon remote solution, more flexible and I use mine a couple of times a month.

When you're using it in remote trigger mode, the setup looks something like this - and the button on the transceiver not connected to the camera will fire the shutter (it's dual-mode, so a half-press will focus just like your camera's shutter button, but you probably want to focus first.)

Note that there are several different retail packages of the RF-603 that include different cables for different lines of cameras. Some kits are for cameras with the port on the side vs 10-pin connector on the front - although the transceivers themselves are identical.

If you want to go really fancy, there are inexpensive laser triggers that can help you catch really fast-moving targets, but I have no experience using or setting up one of those.

I use daylight normally, no flash. And I use THIS wireless remote control.

Mine is no longer available but this one is similar and quotes up to 100 hr exposure right in the specs

Try Amazon. Can get the same kit for $20 and have it delivered today if you have Prime.

edit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HGMKQEE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the one I bought when I first got my GoPro. Granted I wouldn't trust the suction cup mounted on the outside of my car without something else tying it down, but everything else is absolutely handy to have as a beginner for the price of a dinner out.

get one of these kits after you get the waterproof case: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HGMKQEE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You could find them for less than $10. I;'ve uses the floaty for snorkeling, I've used the chest mount as a 3rd hand, I've used the suction cup in the car with a gimbal, all that stuff is very useful and cheap.

You probably want to use a gimbal on the slopes to get steady video, unfortunately you can't use a waterproof case when using a gimbal. Probably not a good idea when it's snowing

I found a sigma 8mm what do you think about this?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B003G28AZG/ref=sr_1_5_olp?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1394047595&sr=1-5&keywords=sigma+8mm&condition=used

I have the cheapo kit from amazon. I coulkd buy three whole kits with dozens of mounts for 60$ and I have yet to see any of those fail or even show signs of bad quality. I would bet they are made side by side in the same factory.

This should be a better option for 4 triggers. You might need to check D3300's compatibility with these triggers. But I don't see why they wouldn't work for you. I got a D3100 and these work perfect on it.

Watch the video review, it is worth it.

Is this a mechanical intervalometer?

If not, would you be able to help at all?

That's great info, thanks very, very much. This is starting to take some (admittedly amorphous) shape in my brain.

Would these Yongnuo YN-622N Transceivers suffer from the radio limitation you describe (RF I presume)?

Or were you referring to the less expensive kind such as these?

I recently bought the Fujifilm X-E2 and I'm loving it so far. I'd like to buy an adapter so I can use my older lenses from Nikon d80 on Fuji but I'm not sure which adapter mount I should buy! I'm getting confused between the F mount and the G mount.

The lens I'm primarily interested in using is the Sigma 10-20. Thanks!

you can buy a tiny lens cover for the Hero 4 - https://www.amazon.com/d/Professional-Video-Accessories/GoPro-Protective-Lens-and-Covers/B00F19Q3S8

I just started looking at it right now actually. Looks like it might be better for sony a6000 too.
Rokinon 12mm

Any recommendations for a higher tier wide angle lens? I have the Sigma 10-20mm f/4 but I'd like something sharper. Prepared for anything under $1500 and needs to be least 14mm (low range) or 18mm (high range).

Rather then change your bulbs and setting WB in post try setting custom white balance in camera. Video link

That should fix your problem, if you shoot a whole lot under those conditions then you may want to swap your bulbs or get a Colorchecker Passport, it would automate the whole color correction process.

The two lenses he used in this video are the Sigma 8-16mm and the Canon EF 16-35mm. According to Amazon, the Sigma 8-16mm is $649 and the Canon EF 16-35mm is $1529. Even with the crop factor, you can actually go wider with the Sigma than the Canon (at full frame) and it costs less than twice the price. Granted, the Canon is a faster lens and is a L Series lens, but the notion that "getting good wide angle lenses is harder and more expensive" on a small sensor camera is a bit misguided IMHO.

I personally disagree with this... I mean I spent $27 on a bundle with a bunch of cheap shit, but it gave me an idea of what I really want to spend my money on.

The selfie stick is crap, need to get a new one. and the tripod isn't to solid, but everything else was well worth it.

Here is the set I bought

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XHSKKXE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

Great for starters. Cheap investment, and you can play around with different sets. I got my GoPro and this set on the same day so I didn't spend a whole lot and got right to making some great videos and having fun with it.

Edit: and to clarify, I am only disagreeing with the bundle part. 100% agree with water housing bit.