(Part 2) Best dog breeds books according to redditors
We found 348 Reddit comments discussing the best dog breeds books. We ranked the 135 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
Let me explain why books are a waste of time.
Literary fiction is valuable but you don't want to be the guy who carries IJ everywhere, so it's best you avoid it.
Philosophy is also valuable but the vast majority is wrong and you'll sound like a neckbeard if you try to talk about it with anyone.
Poetry is at best shitty paintings and at worst shitty self help.
Genre fiction is fun but stupid and too many people base their identities around it, and you will be grouped in with these people. This includes comic books.
History is genre fiction.
True crime is history.
Current events books are propaganda.
Conspiracy writing combines the worst of history, genre fiction, true crime and current events.
Self-help is all bullshit, just join a religion which will not only provide a sense of security but also give you friends and free food.
Science writing is a waste of time b/c there is probably another scientist who can write a book about why the book you're reading is wrong, and even if there isn't it's PBS-tier shit for old people/your BIO 181 professor.
Business is for psychopaths who think that Elon Musk is a good person and tips have to be earned. It's also beloved by dipshits who think money defines success. These two are frequently the same person.
Cook books are comfy but do you really want to do dishes? No.
Religious books are a weird mixture. Sacred texts for primary world religions can either be believed or classified as literary fiction and valuable either way. Sacred texts for cults like Scientology or new age shit is bad genre fiction. Books about religion are propaganda.
You may think I've trashed every book imaginable, but I haven't. This book https://www.amazon.com/Dog-Encyclopedia-DK/dp/1465408444 is excellent. It has pictures of over 400 good boyes and girles and tells you which treats they like best. I cannot recommend it enough.
You seem to have all the basics.
[1] pair the dog and chicks while both are as young as possible.
[2] get a "herding" dog breed.
Forgive me for going into some unwanted tangents on herd training.... "chicken herding" is kind of a small hobby for me.
I have worked with an Australian Cattle Dog. The dog was 10 years old when I started. At this point I can let the dog out when they are free ranging, I can even let the dog into the coop and all she will do is sniff and nip the chickens. Unfortunately, I did not get the dog young enough to train her hunting instinct out. When the birds fly, flutter or cause a commotion - and I don't already have her in "herding mode", my dog goes into "hunting mode"... and the chickens are as good as dead.
One way to pair animals, is to introduce the chicks to a dog while she is giving birth. This is a sure fire way to eliminate the kill instinct and instill a protective nature if the dog accepts the chicks as part of her litter. If it doesn't "take", the mother will kill the chicks. I can not speak to how this works when new chicks are added to your coop, but I have seen it done with one batch first hand - and it is amazing. So all in all, this is not the best way to pair. But if you have the opportunity, it's worth a shot.
As far as herd dog training.... it is a lot of work. Herding Dogs are very loyal but very high maintenance. They require a daily routine, loving discipline, concise vocabulary, regular "training workouts", etc. If you have not done it before, I would warn against accepting every piece of advice from house dog trainers and most dog club enthusiasts. While most of their advice works for house training a dog, herd training is as individual as say, training a hunting dog.
Methods I used: [1] segregating dog and chickens in coop for increasing intervals until the dog doesn't get excited about bird presence. [2] allowing a rooster and dog in the same area. (I'm not going to cry if my dog kills a rooster) [3] training the dog to come when I say come, reverse direction when I say "heit" along with various other [commands] (http://www.herding-dog-training-border-collie-sheepdog-dvd.com/sheepdog-terminology/) Note, the author doesn't use standard vocabulary that people use at competitions. [4] once the dog has a good command of being directed, I keep him/her on a leash and we herd together. [5] Once I feel confident in the dog's ability to herd on a leash, we graduate to unleashed herding. I've also encouraged my dog to chase deer, turkeys, etc off my property when she sees them. And bark from the inside when they are present. This has taken a long time to sink in, but she will now alert me that a deer is in the yard, run it to the property line, and come back for a piece of summer sausage. Summer sausage is a huge incentive for her.
I would proceed by finding a herding breed you like (I love [australian cattle dogs] (https://www.reddit.com/r/blueheelers/)), finding a book particular for herd training, and finding an enthusiast group for your breed. I will note, the reason why I am so much a proponent of specific breeds, is because I've tried herd training a few labs.... and I've tried with one cattle dog. The difference between the four labs and the cattle dog is night and day. Now granted, labs are the ideal chicken killing dog, and cattle dogs are one of the best herding dogs... and I only have experience with two breeds - so I am by no means an expert. Terriers seem like they would be a headache. Or, at least, they don't seem like a good match for me. I would argue that pairing the right breed for you is very important, so if you are a fan of terriers - and they have a history of herding.... go with it. I would definitely get a herding breed, though. Those dogs have been selectively bred over generations based on their ability to overcome their kill instinct.
Other things I've heard... cattle and sheep are the easiest to train with. chickens are the hardest.... so your jumping in the deep end. Granted it sounds like you just want the dog to guard, and not herd... but the skill set is very similar, and I would argue mutually beneficial.
My favorite trainer in the world is Cesar Milan. I love his zen-like, accept the dog for the dog he/she is method, and also the idea of being the "pack leader". His work rehabilitating fighting dogs in L.A. was pretty awesome. Unfortunately, I've found very little of his work on herders. Just one episode of his [show] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qd0UxayRWog) and a few [blog] (https://www.cesarsway.com/about-dogs/breeds/bringing-out-the-breed) posts. There are a lot of books out there. a and [b] (http://www.amazon.com/Stockdog-Savvy-Jeanne-Joy-Hartnagle-Taylor/dp/1577791061/ref=pd_bxgy_14_img_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=0A4Z50JV4JYV6HYWHHQD) got good reviews on amazon. I've heard about Holland's book, it's supposed to be one of the most well-read books on herding dogs. I can't speak for it personally.
When looking at toys, you want things that they can easily fit their mouth around, but large enough the can't swallow. Go to your local goodwill/thrift shop and pick up a few cheap stuffed animals. A good book for first time vizsla owners is the versatile vizsla by Marrion Coffman. It would've answered all the questions you asked and more.
Also, training isn't just for the pup. It's a good way for both of you to learn each other, and what is expected.
Don't stress too much or it will rub off on the pup and you can get a neurotic dog. Remember, this should be FUN!
Edit: I typed this on my phone and didn't proofread. So if anything doesn't make sense that's why, but I'm going to bed.
I recently picked up this book to prepare for my first BC that I get to pick up in a couple days. It had a full chapter on adoption and some specific sections on dealing with anxiety and such.
https://www.amazon.com/Barbara-Sykes-Training-Border-Collies/dp/1847978894/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1518734902&sr=8-13&keywords=border+collie
Hope this helps!
I really enjoyed this book. I also highly recommend Pets on the Couch: Neurotic Dogs, Compulsive Cats, Anxious Birds, and the New Science of Animal Psychiatry by Nicholas Dodman of Tufts Animal Behavior Clinic. He argues that humans and other animals share much of the same neurobiology, and that advances in human medicine can inform how to treat pets, and vice versa (note: this thinking is not particularly unique to Dodman, it's the basis behind plenty of basic science and clinical research that starts out with experiments on mice or other model organisms). Dodman employs lots of fascinating vignettes in this book to draw you in, and also some general explanations of the neuroscience behind the behavior or treatment. Obviously, the brain is incredibly complex and there are species-specific differences in how our neural circuits are wired. However, commonalities definitely exist, and when circuits go awry, they can manifest in similar behaviors among humans and pets.
How Dogs Learn and Culture Clash
Both great books for new and veteran dog owners.
About 1,5 years ago, I was in a similar situation. I had no previous experience of dogs, no idea what to expect. Also, about 6 months ago, my girlfriend moved away and I've been solely responsible for our dog since. It's not easy, but you have to realize that from this point onward, that dog is part of your family and comes first.
First things first: Puppies for Dummies, read it now (or some other book).
As many others have pointed out, there's no way a reputable breeder would give out a puppy at 6 weeks. Around here, 8 weeks is the minimum (otherwise I agree with everything cirocco wrote). It might feel that it doesn't matter, but as you will soon find out, a week is a major milestone in a puppy's development. Anyway, that's happened so let's focus on the future.
A dog is pretty resilient, so you have some margin of error, but I can't emphasise how important each week is and how you need to really focus on the puppy for the first year or so. You'll be rewarded later on.
I'm guessing getting the dog was primarily your girlfriend's idea? That doesn't matter now and you can't use that as any excuse, because you're both going to be equally important to the puppy. If you think about it as your girlfriend's dog, it's going to be a mistake (as I learned out pretty quickly). It will love and depend on both of you. The longest stretch your dog can be left alone is around 8 hours (when adult). However, you're not even close to that yet and you need to teach your puppy that being alone is ok. But that's only possible once your puppy feels safe and trusts its surroundings.
The puppy will poop and puke in many interesting places (and continue to do so when adult). In most cases, this will be normal and caused by something the dog ate and will go away soon. A change of diet will pretty much always guarantee strange poops. Your puppy will soon learn that it should go outside to do its business, but because of a weak bladder it will not be able to do so for a long time and this is the reason why it's never ok to blame the dog for making an accident.
In a year, you won't have a finished end-product. Yes, it will be much easier on many fronts by then, but your dog will still require attention, care and leadership. When you'll girlfriend leaves for graduate school, your dog will miss her but will soon be ok. However, at this point you really need to make sure that there are others that can take care of the dog when you personally can't (trip, sickness, etc.). At around 1 year, your dog is going to be very active and you need to make sure all its needs are taken care of or you will end up with a bunch of behavioral problems. It will get easier, but you can't take it any less seriously. Taking care of an active breed by just yourself means that you'll spend a lot time out with your dog.
You might want to consider taking up a dog-related hobby like obedience training or agility or something.
> for what? So I can "pet" something?
You have lost your independence, but you have gained a new best friend for life. Yes, vets can be expensive. Yes, your life changed and you can't get it back. You chose a breed that has a pretty long lifespan, is relatively active and which is not considered to be "easy". It's up to you to think hard if you're up to the challenge. What you will end up is much more than a "pet".
We talked about gettinga a dog for a year before actually doing so. We borrowed our friends' dog for weekends. We researched breeds and met breeders. Even so, once the puppy came home I was scared, I wasn't sure I was up to the task. But now I couldn't be happier. It is hard, and most of my time goes with my dog but for me it's all worth it. When I get home after a day at work, the massive amount of love that awaits me at home is just amazing. Those tiny feet jumping at me, so happy that I'm back after a boring but successful day guarding the dog fort.
TL;DR: If you jumped right here, you might not be up to the task. I was in a similar position, and it's not going to be easy - but so rewarding if you have the right attitude. You will not learn the guitar nor go regulary to the gym for at least the next 6 months.
By the time a male puppy reaches the age of 4-5 months, his testosterone levels start to rise. The male hormone will keep on climbing and peek around 10 months of age, then very slowly go down to reach adult levels around 18 months of age (Dunbar, 1999). These ages can vary from breed to breed and among individuals, but the important factor to keep in mind is this: adolescence in dogs generally occurs between 6-18 months and during that period, their brain is flooded with more hormones than ever. High levels of testosterone lead to greater reactivity with faster, longer and more intense responses to external stimuli.
This is a better book imo.
i think i read it in a book called Mush! I dont know the name though
http://www.amazon.com/Mush-Revised-Beginners-Manual-Training/dp/097906760X
Crate train! It will save all of your personal belongings and your house from so much damage. It also helps with potty training and keeping the dog calm.
Purchase this book and take it very seriously. We did everything it said and have a very well-behaved dog.
https://www.amazon.com/Puppy-Whisperer-Compassionate-Violent-Training/dp/1593375972
You might enjoy http://www.amazon.com/Trainers-Talk-About-Starting-Sheepdog/dp/0979469015
Not Cattledog specific but still, good discussions on early days with puppies.
First off, I think it's excellent you're trying to incorporate your dog into your sheep operation... it'll be easy to see the benefits once you really get going!
>She does these just fine when we're on our own
The flanking/driving commands are completely useless off of sheep, there is no relevance to the dog for those specific commands away from livestock. They need the livestock as a reference for them to make sense. Once you introduce sheep into the mix, obedience completely goes out the window (at first), and that's completely normal. Once they get keen is when you can start introducing concepts and adding some pressure to them.
What's the DVD you've watched? A couple I really like are "First Steps in Border Collie Sheepdog Training", which is good for covering a lot of basics with different types of dogs (including a 'sticky' dog with a lot of eye like yours), and I've only seen it once but Aled Owen's "Time Well Spent" covers a lot of basics and concepts as well.
A couple books I really like:
A Way of Life (this is probably my favorite)
Stockdog Savvy
Talking Sheepdogs
Top Trainers Talk about Starting a Sheepdog (another favorite, but this might be more in depth/advanced than you need right now)
Overall, though, I would really recommend finding a trainer who can help you get started- take lessons, and work on what you're learning at home. If you can tell me whereabouts you're located, we can help you find a trainer near you!
These terriers are notorious for this spinning motion. This book talks about this breed specifically. The author believes it may be a disorder similar to autism. Super interesting read if you're a pet owner.
I was just looking at this one too. There seems to be a bit more in it. I'll probably try this one as well.
https://www.amazon.com/Book-Tricks-Best-Step-Step/dp/1523501618/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=dog+trick+book&link_code=qs&qid=1565377384&s=gateway&sourceid=Mozilla-search&sr=8-2
Ok, I had some things to do, I wanted to reply to this earlier...I love this stuff :D
I dunno if you're looking for a specific training (general obedience, agility, protection, etc.), so I'll include a bit of everything that's helped me or that is well-regarded.
For general understanding of dog behavior, I really, really intensely love Jean Donaldson's "Culture Clash." It's not a workbook for obedience, it's more of a compilation of different techniques and why the author chose to move toward the training style she did. It's a little scathing at times. It's also relatively short (I think I finished it in a day or two), so as a general introduction, it works great.
If you have a puppy and are looking for puppy-specific knowledge, Ian Dunbar is the go-to name. There's lots and lots of Dunbar stuff out there, just plug his name in and go to town! Paul Owens' "The Puppy Whisperer" is also pretty good.
For general/pet obedience work, you really can't beat Pat Miller's "The Power of Positive Dog Training". Karen Pryor, a pioneer in clicker training (bridging the gap between marine/whale operant conditioning and dogs), also put out a great one, "Don't Shoot the Dog! The New Art of Teaching and Training". Really, anything by Karen Pryor is worth picking up if you're interested in the subject.
There are certain facets of dog body language and behavior that are pretty essential to know, and which are often neglected or incorrectly labelled in dominance-heavy learning (for instance, appeasement behaviors and fear aggression). A great start here is "On Talking Terms with Dogs" by Turid Rugaas, a Norwegian dog trainer and behaviorist.
Let's say you have a specific problem. Here are some good starts to overcoming common doggie fear issues: Patricia McConnell's "Cautious Canine and Ali Brown's "Scaredy Dog! Understanding and Rehabilitating Your Reactive Dog.. Patricia McConnell's "I'll be Home Soon" is great for separation anxiety, Terry Ryan's "The Bark Stops Here" for barking. One of my faves is Emma Parsons' "Healing the Aggressive Dog".
Finally, a book that I cannot stress enough in its awesomeness is Jane Killion's "When Pigs Fly! Training Success with Impossible Dogs". If you're stuck with a breed that was bred to work independently or you often feel that your dog is just plain ignoring you, this is a great thing to pull out.
If you're not so big on books and want videos, hop on youtube and look up kikopup! She's utterly brilliant and has a ton of videos to choose from. If you want to get more into that angle, look up the terms "shaping," "capturing," and "luring" - three different but related methods for encouraging dogs to do specific behaviors.
Finally, if you want to get down to the science of it and think more about wolves, L. David Mech is the name you want to watch for. And I have more sources on specific dogsports (gundog work, agility, etc.), but this post is already hideously long, so I'll leave it as is.
Hope that helps!
When the weather is warm you can still practice directional commands and trotting in front of you on leash. If your dog has had a lot of obedience training with heeling this might feel unnatural to them for awhile. Samoyeds aren’t bred with as much a focus on working drive anymore, but any dog can pull. It was pretty instinctive for my two, but sometimes my male is a bit lazy and unmotivated.
I highly recommend this book:
https://www.amazon.com/Mush-Revised-Beginners-Manual-Training/dp/097906760X
Dogs raised in a loving environment don't even know violence and will never bite. Many pit bulls had shitty humans that made them violent. Humans see a couple dogs bite and demonize the whole breed. First Bloodhounds after Civil War, then Huskies and northern dogs, then Dobermans, German Shepherds in the 80s, 90s they blamed the Rottweiler. Pit Bulls are the dog of choice for today. Pit bulls are bred to be the most friendly dogs, they had to fight and not bite referees or owners, the were easily controllable which made them ideal for the ring when dogfighting was legal. In the early 1900's before sensationalized media, the Pit Bull was nicknamed the 'nanny dog'. The hate on Pit Bulls is completely irrational and it hurts good doggies. There are books written on this. http://www.amazon.com/Pit-Bull-Placebo-Politics-Aggression/dp/0972191410/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1329039520&sr=1-1
German Shepherds, Bloodhounds, Dobermans, and Rotts have been portrayed as demon dogs, you may have experienced people being afraid of your family's own dogs due to that. Right now the pit bull, once nicknamed the Nanny dog, is the demon dog. You can check out the book called The Pit Bill Placebo: The Media, Myths, and Politics of Canine Aggression for the history behind all that stuff.
From my understanding, tiny dogs like dachunds and chihuahuas are the breeds behind the most bites. As someone who worked in an animal shelter, I've been bitten by a Jack Russell, two Shih tzus, and a white domestic shorthair cat. The scariest I've interacted with there was an old German Shepherd, a black lab with a crazy stare, and some weird boxer mix with bug eyes. All of them were relinquished by owners that, for one reason or another, rubbed me the wrong way. Labs, pits, dachshunds, it doesn't matter what breed it is: they were all either really scared, calm, silly happy, or just plain mean. It depended on the individual dog. We had a Rott that was so petrified she could barely walk inside her cage though there was plenty of room to move around. Meanwhile, her brother in the next cage over would lunge and growl at anyone who came near him. Two dogs of the same breed from the same household with different reactions. And then we had a stray Rott who was sweet as could be and just happy to be near anyone. Each dog is different, regardless of their breed. Some dogs are baseline nice and some are assholes.
Fun fact: the pit bull and its mixes have the largest "breed" population in the United States. Kinda crazy. Maybe it would be better for these statistics to be in proportion to their populations, like 20% of this breed has been reported for biting, 5% of that, alongside the other stats of bite numbers.
Fun fact number two: since The city of Denver banned the pit bull breed, dog bite incidents have gone up.. Haven't heard stats on deaths since bites bring in the big numbers and the headlines.
Tl;dr : I agree with Annie -- it's a lot of the nurture aspect, not just nature when it comes to dogs. Larger breed owners obviously have a larger responsibility due to their animal having larger teeth, but I will still not go near a daschund until I decide it's friendly. I like my fingers intact!
Edit: added to facts
When it comes to Military and Police Work the dogs they have are ones that have essentially been bred and tried/tested to work in the vigorous demands that the dog could be put in. Things like temperature, terrain, loyalty, bravery, etc all come into play. Could a bulldog do this. Most of it yes! But I don't know if a bull dog could do so well in the old (ie under 10 degrees) or if they have the correct physical porportions that the militaries are looking for. I also don't know who scensitive their noses are. Scent detection is a BIG thing with working dogs.
As for a routing to train your dog on check out this book. You don't have to go full on Schutzhund to get your dog trained. Small goals that you build upon can give you enormous results.
As for the drive thing. Is your dog big into playing fetch with a ball? For my dog that is really his favorite game to release his prey drive energy. I can take a ball, stick, jute roll, whatever throw it in the woods as far as I can throw it and he brings it back every damn time. He get the prey aspect out in "chasing" the ball and if he cant find drops the nose and "hunts".
As for the therapy dog thing. I have never heard such things. As another redditor has said I've seen military police dogs become therapy dogs. These dogs are not vicious monsters that a going to bite kids and patients.
Hawaii? That's very interesting. I imagine dog showing out there is rather different than in the continental US. Is Cinberlin the Corgi "monopoly" breeder?
A lot of that contrast is from the photo. The dogs look stunning in real life but not quite like that. Like, this is my dog and he isn't the cleanest in this pic. His color is strong in real life, but not quite so intense as in the photo.
Aside from photo trickery, a lot of the color has to do with the type, quality, and richness of pigment in the coat. I have seen many, many Corgis that lack that extra oomph because they simply don't have the richness or depth of color, or have a really tight coat that doesn't catch light well. It doesn't matter how clean they are, they will never be as striking as others.
I'm far from a grooming expert, but for getting what you have bright and shiny, whitening shampoo is your friend--and lots of it. They make color intensifying shampoos for people, so they probably make them for dogs too. You also want to be sure there is as little dead undercoat as possible. ie Remove all the loose undercoat. Do this with a dog/velocity/forced-air blow dryer, which will also fluff the coat up a bit and make it look more impressive.
Handling the dog is a skill, and many places offer handling classes. Contact a local kennel club to find out about handling classes in your area. You may even want to get with the "monopoly" breeder and learn from them about what makes a good handler and what makes a successful show dog. In fact, I highly encourage getting in contact with them and asking to shadow them at a show.
I hear that showing in UKC is good because there's less competition, less pressure, and UKC is more welcoming of newbies.
Definitely know the standard and what all the terms mean. I highly recommend buying a copy of the illustrated standard. It will be better for you as a show competitor and potential breeder if you understand more about why structure is important, so I also recommend reading up on dog structure in general. This was my first book and I loved it.
I just looked it up, and I'm pretty sure this was the one I had, which is from 1998. I remember going through it a few years ago when I was throwing crap away, and just some of the information was really out of date.
It was interesting though. If I remember correctly, German shepards and rotties were feared at the time, and were described as dangerous. Pits weren't described so negatively (not saying they're dangerous! Just how the author put it).
What's your living situation? (house/apt., single/married, etc..) That's probably the most important factor for choosing the right breed.
As far as a breed book goes this one isn't bad:
Barrons Breed Encyclopedia
What did you go see? I tried really hard to be frugal this year and only bought new collars from the JR Whippet Rescue stand, Dogsteps, K9 Structure & Terminology and a couple of toys that fit my criteria of a) cheap and b) as indestructible as possible. Didn't even make it into the arena this year because of the long queuing.
Good tips here so far. The key to corgis is exercise, obedience, then affection. Train them, train them every day, work hard at it, be consistent. With corgis, you get back what you put in, and then some. It is hard, HARD work, they are not fluffy little lapdogs or couch potatoes. Corgis are intelligent, high-energy working dogs. They're very smart, they're very trainable, and they're very vocal. Corgis are loyal and affectionate, but on their terms. Not all of them are roly poly cuddle bugs.
If you are just starting out on your corgi search, RESEARCH. Everything about the breed, all the information you can digest on training and raising a corgi. As mentioned, the sidebar has helpful information. The FAQ at mycorgi.com has some helpful information, but please take it with a grain of salt.
Find a local vet, talk to them about raising a puppy. Most importantly, find a vet that has EXPERIENCE with corgis and their specific health issues and development traits. Find an emergency pet clinic (you never know) and keep that information handy.
Here are some helpful books:
http://www.amazon.com/The-Complete-Pembroke-Welsh-Corgi/dp/0876052499
http://www.amazon.com/Pembroke-Welsh-Corgi-Happy-Healthy/dp/0470390611/ref=pd_sim_b_2 (we have this one, it's great)
http://www.amazon.com/Welsh-Corgis-Pembroke-Cardigan-Complete/dp/0764142429/ref=pd_sim_b_1
Decide if you're going to go to a breeder or a rescue, research both options. Find a responsible breeder and interview them, interview them again, explore your rescue options.
This is a lifetime commitment, and should not be taken lightly. Understand that corgis can live a minimum of 12 years (and hopefully more) so you should be prepared for that.
Definitely take care when feeding your corgi, because they can tend to pack on weight if they are fed w/o observation. Research the best treats, ingredients and calories to pick your best training aid.
Find local facilities that offer puppy classes — obedience training, playgroups, socialization, etc. Figure out what schedules work best for you.
Be prepared for all that comes with raising a puppy if you look to go that route, and please don't bring any dog home earlier than 8 weeks. It's better for the dog and better for you in the long run. And will be better on your sleep schedule. Also important socialization and essential 'how to be a dog' interactions happen within the litter between 6-10 weeks, you don't want your pup to miss out on that.
And be prepared for shedding, corgis shed a lot. I don't feel like it's too much more than our two cats shed, but it is a lot. Some people are not ok with that, or not prepared. Regular grooming should be part of your schedule, make sure you have time for that. Whether you get a fluffy or not, please don't ever shave your corgi. They are double-coated for a reason.
And DEFINITELY take lots of pictures, puppies grow so so fast, it's unbelievable.
Good luck!
Buy this book, it will really help you understand the breed and train accordingly 🙂
Barbara Sykes' Training Border Collies https://www.amazon.com/dp/1847978894/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_o7GIzb281RGNZ
[only ~$10 new on Amazon.] (http://www.amazon.com/Book-Bitch-Complete-Understanding-Bitches/dp/1860540236/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1303179715&sr=8-1)
You're welcome.
I always imagine other wizards approaching life in the same way that some monks and monasteries approach the problem of keeping the lights on (think westvleteren beer or the monks of new skete dogs).
Some monks don't depend on donations to fund their buildings and organizations. They pick a thing that takes a lot of time, attention and focus to produce - then make it extremely well. The same ability to focus that allows you to meditate for hours or reread the same three lines of text a thousand times in the hope of revelation probably translates well to small batch, high quality, labor intensive crafts/products. Wizards have to spend a lot of time in isolation focusing and studying in order to grow as well, so I wouldn't be surprised if they had similar skills and used them in similar ways.
Imagine Luccio, even in her current body, blacksmithing insanely high quality swords that she only makes and sells once or twice a year. Koehira Watan, one of the last traditional katana makers in Japan, has a wait list measured in years, if not decades. Or maybe imagine Ebenezer making small expensive batches of the best whisky seen this side of the Mississippi - the kind that only show up in the cellars of petro-oligarchs.
Even Harry, a 'yungun without centuries of experience, is really good at being a private detective. The main reason he's broke and the other wizards aren't may be that he's the only one who actually says "I'm a wizard!" ... which tends to scare off potential customers.
Side Note: Stuff about the monestaries I mentioned
Westvleteren Beer - http://99percentinvisible.org/episode/episode-55-the-best-beer-in-the-world/
Monks of New Skete Dogs - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0047Y0FC8/ref=dp-kindle-redirect?_encoding=UTF8&btkr=1
Korehira Watan - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2BLg756_4M
I am also in the Nashville, TN area with a Vizsla. Maybe you ran into me! We found ours by emailing the contact us at http://www.vcaweb.org/. If you want to read a book, most breeders will recommend http://www.amazon.com/Versatile-Vizsla-Marion-I-Coffman/dp/1577790561
I have this one which I think is very fair and accurate in its descriptions,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/1465408444/ref=pd_aw_fbt_14_img_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=49BCNNMWQDH4JJC3HCH7
How Dogs Learn by Burch & Bailey, for an overview of learning theory in the context of dog training.
My last read was Being a Dog by Horowitz, and it gave me a newfound appreciation for a dog's sense of smell.
For articles, an easy way to get good content is to follow someone like Darwin's Dogs on facebook and read the articles they link to.
You should call around to the doggy daycare places in your area (assuming you have some) and the local pet shelter/rescue. You can often find cheap(er) classes or shorter basics sessions. In Seattle, we can pay as much as a gorillion dollars for classes, but there are lots of cheaper classes for $150 ($3euros) that are a few weeks long.
Also, if you have not picked up any of the books by Ian Dunbar yet, do so now! They are an incredible resource for connecting with your dog and learning how to redirect her attention to you when you need it.
http://www.amazon.com/How-Teach-New-Dog-Tricks/dp/1888047062
http://www.amazon.com/Dog-Behavior-Owners-Guide-Healthy/dp/0876052367
Hip displasia in corgis is extremely rare but does happen.
You might want to get the book
Welsh Corgis: Pembroke and Cardigan - I know you are specific but this is the best book I found. Most of the other ones seemed to be very generic about dogs in general with the word Corgi cut and past in.
These are the books I read! The training the best dog ever was probably my favorite as it focusses on manners commands like recall, stay, leave it, drop it, yours/mine as well as socialization methods. Puppies for Dummies is a lot about the first week/month/year of dog ownership and includes training but also health info, nutrition, supplies, budget, etc. 101 tricks is basically a party tricks book, not focussed on manners more on obedience training/showing off to house guests. I think it's always good to read a book about your dog's breed too so that was my last one.
Training the Best Dog Ever: A 5-Week Program Using the Power of Positive Reinforcement
Puppies For Dummies
101 Dog Tricks: Step by Step Activities to Engage, Challenge, and Bond with Your Dog
The Australian Cattle Dog: An Owner's Guide to a Happy Healthy Pet (Your Happy Healthy Pet)
I really like the methods used in this book http://www.amazon.com/Art-Raising-Puppy-Revised-Skete-ebook/dp/B0047Y0FC8/ref=sr_1_1 and we've used this technique with several dogs over the years, always with very positive results. As everyone else said, aussies must have a job and get a lot of activity! If you don't give them something to do, they will find something to do, usually something you'll wish they hadn't done. Which leads me to...
Warning: Their teething phase is more destructive than you can even imagine. We've had them eat entire thorny rose bushes, a small tree, an entire sprinkler system, outdoor furniture, a dog house... each of these took only a few hours of their time! This was with many better options, like bones and chew toys, available. This wasn't all one dog, we've had 4 over the years.