Best dog supplies according to redditors
We found 13,845 Reddit comments discussing the best dog supplies. We ranked the 5,916 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 13,845 Reddit comments discussing the best dog supplies. We ranked the 5,916 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Emphasis on the dog comment. My dog sits in the front passenger seat. About a year ago, I was almost in a collision thanks to an incident where someone ran a red light and I had to swerve and stop suddenly to avoid them. My seatbelt kept me secure but my poor dog smacked his face on the glove compartment pretty hard. Now I secure him with a seatbelt at all times. Here is the link to the one I purchased — it’s also quite useful w/ regard to preventing the dog from jumping out the window.
Link please! Last time I looked for a product like this they all looked terrible. Edit: nvm looks like I just didn't want to spend $300 for two feeders. This looks pretty great though: SureFeed Microchip Pet Feeder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O0UIPTY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dDz8BbBFAGS50
I use a puppy seatbelt. It’s a super short leash (dog seatbelt) that clips to the dog harness (NOT collar). And then the car’s seatbelt loops through the short leash. It keeps the pup safe and off your lap.
Vastar 2 Packs Adjustable Pet Dog Cat Car Seat Belt Safety Leads Vehicle Seatbelt Harness, Made from Nylon Fabric https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014W40TSW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.NhACbA0HZJV2
Aww. Glad they were so generous about it.
Here's some unsolicited chewing dog advice. Take it or leave it.
With a dog that loves to chew, here's a few recommendations and a blog that is really great for hyper / anxious / chewy dogs. Goes without saying if you're already doing these things then keep on keeping on.
https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Buddy-Dispensing-Medium-Large/dp/B000KV7ZGQ
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ALMW0M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493834636&sr=8-1&keywords=kong+wobbler
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B2KAACK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1493834678&sr=1-3&keywords=ruffwear
All this is a recipe for a less chewy dog. If they're tired both mentally and physically and are confident, unwanted behaviors like chewing and barking generally decrease.
Here's the blog - 3lostdogs (dot) com
ATF begs to differ, but yeah, doggy earpro exists and if they're with you they should probably have it. Note, getting them to wear it is probably a whole nother issue.
So sorry to hear about your dad, I hope he's doing better!
I would not expect Oscar to grow out of this, but there are things you can do. I'd drop the retractable leash and start using a front-clip harness or a head halter to give your dad more control and to be used in conjunction with training. Here are some resources for training loose leash walking that might be helpful. It might also help to work directly with a trainer, here is some information on how to find a good one.
ETA: exercise outside of walks is also important. This thread provides a lot of great exercising ideas.
http://www.amazon.com/Petego-Walky-Hands-Free-Bicycle-Leash/dp/B003OYIAW4 Something like this maybe?
>When she does, I put her in her Den (Crate) but only if she tried to bite me. I know the den shouldn't be used for punishment, but I feel there has to be a way to show her biting is not tolerated.
Right now all you are punishing is the dog coming inside... which is going to create problems when you actually need your dog to come inside because now they won't want to. Yes, dogs learn by consequence, but the consequences MUST come immediately after the behavior you're trying to encourage/discourage.
Is your dog actually attacking/biting you? From your post it just sounds like your dog has developed a poor, perhaps over exuberant, way of initiating attention/play from you. How do they ask for play time in the house?
I would try to be proactive and initiate play with the dog before they have an opportunity start up with the behavior you want to stop. Maybe something with some distance between you and the dog to break the habit of lunging towards you or your hands. I would suggest a flirt pole. I would also suggest working on some obedience right before you take the leash off (ie ask for a sit or a down, remove the leash, and then bring out the flirt pole and release the dog to play).
I rescued a german shepherd mix when he was about 2 months old and he just turned 2 years! He's awesome!
Join /r/dogs for great community, support, and advice.
Here are some of my dog's favorites if you're lost on what to Wishlist on Amazon:
Furminator GSD mixes don't need regular brushing, but this one works great for shedding season
Dremel for nail trimming GSD = black nails, a bit trickier to trim. I use this with lots of treats to put a nice round edge and take off a bit of length of my dog's nails. works good but get him accustomed to it slowly and with lots of treats. Pretty soon he won't mind.
*Zukes are great treats for training
Wow I kind of didn't realize I have so much shit for my dog. But he's family so...anyway. Also costco has great beds for $20ish (comparably $80+ from a petstore) They also carry Frontline, lots of treats (buscuits, duck breast jerkey - the best!) good food (Iams ProActive goes on sale once in a while, and they also carry Natures Domain salmon/sweet potato food that's really good).
The thing that causes this behavior is that he is a working breed dog who is extremely energetic. You basically described almost every lab I have ever trained. His owners need to give him a lot more mental and physical stimulation.
Since he is a lab, a chuck it ball thrower would be a great way to play fetch. A flirt pole is another really great toy for tiring dogs out.
For mental stimulation, mealtimes are a perfect opportunity. Have them get either a Bob-A-Lot or a Kong Wobbler for daily feeding and get rid of his food bowl. I recommend the Bob-A-Lot because you can make it easier or harder. This gives him ~10 extra minutes of brain work every day and you don't have to do anything extra.
Then basic obedience and chew/puzzle toys (kong marathon ball, nobbly nubbly, squirrel dude) will also help.
https://www.amazon.com/Mutt-Muffs-DDR337-Hearing-Protection/dp/B002CZQ1TA
So he's six months old and acting EXACTLY like a puppy with a lot of energy. You need to DO things with him and TRAIN him in bite inhibition. Dogs use their mouths to communicate and that includes play. More than likely he's not being aggressive but trying to play with your hands/arms/feet.
Since he's still a baby you can't do heavy exercise due to them still having to grow but you can still do things with him. You can make a flirt pole (an example: http://www.amazon.com/Squishy-Face-Studio-Exercise-Squeaker/dp/B00HFFXEWE )and play with him outside. You want to ENCOURAGE him to interact with you positively outside. A tired dog is a happy dog.
https://www.amazon.com/Mutt-Muffs-DDR337-Hearing-Protection/dp/B002CZQ1TA
Pretty common on any of the dogs who visit the range.
Here are some!
Do you mean she pulls/fights/struggles to go see them because she wants to see them (in an excited way) or in an aggressive fearful way? I didn't get a reactivity read from this post, but correct me if I'm wrong.
Your problem is three fold. 1.) your dog needs more exercise. It's a vicious cycle - you don't like walking your dog because it's a nut, but your dog is a nut because she doesn't get walked. Being a shepherd mix, she probably needs a lot more exercise than a walk anyway. Are there any fenced in dog parks you can go to? Maybe look into a flirt pole. Your dog would benefit from a lot more exercise than it's probably getting. I would guess she's probably strung up tight like a child's wind-up toy, and it's virtually impossible to get focus out of a dog that over-threshold.
2.) You need to get control of her before any sort of training can take place. I would get a gentle leader. It is harmless to the dog and very difficultly for a dog to pull through it, even a very strong dog. This should stop your dog from pulling you over. An no-pull harness might work, too, but the gentle leader is the most effective, imo.
3.) You have to train your dog to focus on you instead of on really excited stimuli. This is tough, and it's best to start with a well-exercised, tired dog. Start in the home, with minimal distractions. Reward and praise your dog for any attention your dog gives you. Have her sit by you and literally any eye contact gets a "yay!" and a treat. You need to slowly retrain your dog's brain to focus on you instead of other things. Once she's good at that, add distractions indoors (people moving around, toys on the floor, etc). Eventually, once you're getting steady focus indoors with distractions, move to a low distraction outdoor area. The backyard maybe. For some dogs this can be really, really hard. Use a high value reward (hot dogs, cheese, beef liver, etc) and reward and praise any time she chooses to give focus to you instead of the environment. If you keep at it, you can start to ask for focus in very stimulating environments, and then throw a treat and praise party when she gives it. It's not a fast process, but it works. I started my dog at 8 weeks, admittedly, but at 8 months, she can sit in the middle of a crazy busy Home Depot, with carts rattling around and lumber falling to the ground and people everywhere, sitting in heel position, looking up at my face. She can do this because I have paid her (in treats) for offering me focus so much the entire time I've had her. It's so worth it!
I was expecting to see one of these in the link there
http://www.amazon.com/Chuckit-Classic-Launcher-Colors-Vary/dp/B00006IX59
no bending over to pick up and throw it much further.
Mutt Muffs
Gentle leaders work better in my experience, it's basically impossible for the dog to pull.
Dog puzzle feeders.
My dog gets his dinner from toys everyday. I rotate between OurPets IQ Puzzle Ball, Kong Wobbler, Magic Mushroom, and Tug a Jug, since those are the slowest dispensing as well as easiest to fill. I also have a load of other ones but found them to be too easy for him (One minute to empty Buster Cube on "hardest" difficulty vs average 20 minutes from the toys I mentioned). I used them everyday for about 5 to 6 years and never had to replace them.( Then again, my dog is not much of a chewer of hard plastic.) My dog LOVES getting his food from toys to the point of actually almost refusing to eat while giving me a very sad disappointed face when I just put it in his bowl. He has fun and they tire him out (he is panting after every meal). Win for me.
Why not work in the yard on a long line instead of going on walks? Gets her outside and moving, but keeps her close to home, too. You can work up on distance when she is doing better. As long as you are active with your dog, it doesn't necessarily have to come in the form of a "walk".
Some alternatives:
Not all of these are indoor/outdoor, but depending on the size of your space many of them can easily be done inside, too! It is really important that you don't let her apprehension about being outside keep her indoors. Counter Conditioning can be a big help in helping her become more confident outdoors - just work at her pace, but work consistently. Even if you stay close to home for the next several months and keep outdoor activities short, but more frequent throughout the day, it can do a lot to help her get over her anxieties.
Depending on her level of stress, you could even try feeding her outside, or making sure the meals she enjoys outside have a little extra something in them that helps her realize how rewarding it can be to be outdoors.
are you using a normal collar/leash? my labradoodle pulled like he wanted to choke himself until I got a harness that attaches from the front. when he pulls it tightens on his front shoulders and pulls his legs together, preventing him from pulling. I also give him lots of small treats, keeping my arm tucked to my side so he has to be right beside me to get them and is rewarded for being close to and listening to me.
as far as comments goes, it sounds like a majority of the comments you are getting are somewhat sexist since your S/O isn't receiving those same remarks. I would just remind them he's still a puppy in training and focus on training your pup. that's definitely frustrating, having to listen to people make the same comments over and over again though.
I had a chunky foster who would scarf her food then cry for more. For hours.
I started feeding her out of this $8 tricky treat ball from Amazon & it worked so well. She enjoyed the play aspect (and it kept her moving!), and it slowed her down so much that she'd frequently feel full and come back to chill with me when there was still a little food left.
Like a Chuck It! ball launcher?
I know warnings are like a broken record every time someone posts a picture of their new high maintenance breed puppy but here it goes anyways.
Get one of these bad boys. Now THIS works like a charm. I can step over it if I don't want to open the gate, but it keeps the dog out while my cat can walk through fine. To me, 40 bucks is totally worth keeping my carpet and bed free from dog hair.
Carlson Extra Wide Walk Through Pet Gate with Small Pet Door, Includes 4-Inch Extension Kit, Pressure Mount Kit and Wall Mount Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JJDI0G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.Na0DbHG3A4FF
> shelter vets and workers who tell me the grand majority of the animals they see are completely purebred, healthy and just as good as anything you can buy from a breeder
Not really, there are quite a few times where purebreds come into shelters but for the most part 90% are mutts. "Oh look at this amazing rottweiler! His legs are a bit longer than normal though, probably mixed with something?" normally goes on but it is still listed as a Rottweiler (If your shelter lists the breed). A lot of times they are not seen as damaged goods but like you said, second rate and tons of people are hung up on the breed of dog instead of the love the dog can give.
Very rare cases a shelter will do a DNA test for the dog if they are really curious but no shelter I have worked with will do this unless someone raises funds for it.
get one of these, some tennis balls, and get ready to never stop til they drop...
If you still have trouble with pulling on walks, I highly highly recommend trying a gentle leader if you haven't already! It loops around the dog's snout (it doesn't hurt and isn't a muzzle, they can still open their mouths normally) so that if they pull on the leash, it redirects their head toward you. It's much easier to help your dog learn the limits of the leash if you're controlling their head rather than a harness that goes around the strongest part of their body! The gentle leader + treats method is how I finally got my stubborn pitbull to learn how to walk with a loose leash (thank god)
Service animals are trained for crowds, and with a pair of Mutt Mufflers, the noise becomes a non-issue.
Link! https://www.amazon.com/Mutt-Muffs-DDR337-Hearing-Protection/dp/B002CZQ1TA
Strongly recommend getting these off amazon. I have 2 for my dogs. I attach them to their harnesses that they wear whenever we go for car rides. People think it will never happen to them but all it takes is one time. My wife was skeptical but I told her, with how much we love our dogs, how devastated we would be if something were to happen to them that we could prevent
I am super jealous of dog owners who can chuck-it a ball, and their dog sprints after it and brings it back...rinse and repeat. Curse them!
It looks like you just got your puppy four or five days ago, and crate training isn't going to happen that fast. I would take a deep breath and see if you can remove yourself from the situation for a bit if you can, you being stressed and puppy being stressed is not conducive to getting pup to like her crate.
It sounds like you're doing everything right, doing it in steps, making the crate a place of fun and treats. The puppy is still very new to you and her environment, and has lost her family.
My big suggestion for you is to keep on plowing through, making sure you have time to come home from lunch to check on pup, and know you are doing almost everything right. This will pass.
In the meantime a lot of people have vouched for the Snuggle Pup which warms up and emulates a puppy that may make your dog feel less alone. I did not use it, but ended up putting in a sturdy heating pad (since my corgi was not a fierce chewer) into the crate, and it seemed to keep him calm.
Dog whistles work And just keep spinning, just keep spinning!
The more you practice, the better you'll get at planning route. Separate what you need from what you want and prioritize
IE: need - water (any gas station for free if they have soda fountain)
Want - that coffee from Starbucks
Take that idea to the extreme, it worked well for me. Only satisfy your wants after you've covered you're needs. And if you're riding a lot of miles a day, electrolytes! Gatorade is the cheapest but I tend to avoid it. Osmo is the BEST I've used and I've tried a lot.
Also, if you got the time, find a spot you both like and take a vacation from riding all day, after all... You are TOURing, be a tourist.
EDIT: Also, quick draw mace (I carry bear spray, cuz fk'em) on your handlebars really gives you that peace of mind feeling in sketchy places. Advice on any mace, test it so you know what's your range and only use it if you are getting attacked. Gun vs mace will not end well, surrender. I've heard stories of tourers talking themselves out of hold ups with their tales of adventure but I'd just be prepared to give up some valuables. Keep money hidden on bike, on your person, and in your gear. On bike I have some in bar plug on hbars, and on person under my insoles wrapped in tape
When my Doberman was between 1 and 3 years old, I had a Walky Dog on my bike and we'd go on rides multiple days a week. It was the perfect way for her to release her energy. She absolutely loved it and still gets excited when she sees a bike to this day. My only words of advice is to be mindful of the wear and tear running on concrete can do to joints. My girl is 10 now and has arthritis and leg tremors that's being treated with Gabapentin and Tramadol.
I've been there. Everything you don't want chewed needs to be kept it out of his reach. Hide EVERYTHING. The teething and chewing does eventually get better, but in the meantime, crates and puppy-proof rooms are VERY important. Baby gates and wire playpens are good for blocking off hazards in common areas. Keep a close eye on him for now, check his stool for potential problems (blood, irregular, or lack of elimination = drop what you're doing and go to the vet). If you see a string, don't pull it.
I know you didn't ask for advice, but here are some things that really helped with my dog:
I have a border collie, and I second this. One of the best things we ever did was get a Tricky Treat ball, which we feed her in every day. We don't even have a food bowl for her anymore, because she eats all of her meals out of this. We fill it twice a day and she does an amazing job self-pacing her eating, and it immediately calmed her down. She feels like she's working for her food, and she likes being independent, and she likes to feel useful. Every now and then if other dogs are over, we feed her normally, and she does not like it. She loves going for bike rides, but I've found that teaching a new trick does just as well at tiring her out, which is great in bad weather. She's like a person: she needs to feel like her life has purpose in a way that I haven't experienced with other, non-border collie dogs. Another easy thing to do in bad weather: play fetch up and down the stairs. Start with regular fetch, then start adding tricks to it. Make her sit and wait A LOT. My dog is two, and she's calmer than she was a year ago, in part because we moved a year ago to a house with stairs and windows that she can watch things from, and in part because we switched her to a grain-free kibble which solved her digestive issues, so be aware of that as an issue for lots of border collies!
It can be very difficult to guess accurately from appearance! Although I see why that is your guess.
If you are very curious and have some disposable income, you could try one of these genetic testing kits for dogs: https://www.amazon.com/Wisdom-Identification-Canine-Genetic-Ancestry/dp/B01EHX2BH0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1550434658&sr=8-1&keywords=dog+genetic They are pretty easy to use and reasonably accurate. If your dog has a very mixed genetic background (ie even her grandparents were all mixed breeds) it will not be able to tell you very well what all the different breeds are, but in most situations it will at least have some relatively close guesses. As long as you know it's mostly for fun and curiosity, the kits are easy to use and interesting.
Very pretty dog, I hope you have a long and happy friendship!
Oh Lordy I have a ton...I'll try to categorize them...
Best for Puppies
These are all easy toys that dispense a lot of kibble with very little movement. Perfect for baby puppies or really low-confidence dogs. These can also be upgraded in difficulty later by stuffing them with wet food and freezing, or stuffing with a large, hard to extract treat (like a slice of lunchmeat).
Easy Rollers
These basically just dispense kibble by rolling. Not particularly complex, but good for the dog that prefers to solve puzzles by brute force.
Wobblers
These require a more finessed rolling motion to empty, so they're the next step up from just batting a toy around.
Complex Action Toys
These need movement in more than one direction (or very specific movement) to get kibble out of, which makes them pretty challenging.
Soothing, Low Energy Toys
Along with the stuff n' freeze toys, these are good for dogs on crate rest or who need some extra help relaxing before bed.
My dogs (and cats!) eat all their food out of puzzles so I am constantly on the lookout for new challenges! I'd be happy to provide more details on any of the toys I have, or buy and review any toys people have been wondering about :)
EDIT: btw this Jackson Galaxy Asteroid is my favorite cat puzzle toy. They really need to make one for dogs because it is kinda quirky with its bounciness and super quiet.
These work really well:
http://www.amazon.com/Premier-Pet-Products-Gentle-Leader-Headcollar-Large/dp/B00074L4W2
It's also used by average people with mutts and shelter dogs, partly to track for hereditary issues (poodles have a higher likelihood of Addison's disease, for example), partly to try and shed light on behaviors ("Oh, my dog is really clever and high energy, and it turns out he's part Collie!"), and partly because some people just want to know what breed(s) their pup is. There are kits available at most pet stores and online, including Amazon.
about $80. https://www.amazon.com/Mars-Veterinary-Wisdom-Panel-Identification/dp/B01EHX2BH0
oh, he is so cute!!! I let mine sit up front in my lap when he was tiny and now he always tries to sit up front, even though he is way too big.
There is a great little seat belt for dogs that clips onto their harness and into the seat belt itself. Great for car rides and gives them enough room to stick their head out the window.
On an off-topic side note, if you are concerned about protecting your dog's hearing, then you should buy them dog specific hearing protection. No doubt having a dog wear human ear muff does nearly nothing.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002CZQ1TA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-f.IBbTWWJ5AM
I bike with my dog and use this bike attachment, this harness and also [this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002IJQDC/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) for her paws. She loves it. Here's some pics.
Until something is done about them, try using one of these to get to and from your truck. It's just an electronic dog whistle.
Dog Dazer II Ultrasonic Dog Deterrent https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IBRI2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CUH.zbP75ZM2Y
Wow aha. This sounds like my corgi puppy (female) a few weeks ago to a tee. She is now 15 weeks old.
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I know you already know what I am going to say, but the little habits will fall away pretty quickly as he gets used to his new surroundings! At least it happened that way for me!
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For the zero chill, I started forced nap times every 2 hours. She mellowed out pretty hard after that. They don't know how to self-regulate their sleep and a lot of the bratty behaviour is because they're overtired and overstimulated!
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The eating of everything seems to be a common tread as well.. unfortunately that one hasn't gone away for me yet - I hold her leash REALLY tight (or even her collar) while I pick up her poo to make sure she doesn't eat it - gross. Apparently they grow out of this .. still waiting. Also, snails have become the new best thing to eat.. ugh.
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As for the nipping, I found that yelling "OW!" really shrill and sharp, then storming away and closing the door behind me was super effective (and honestly kind of fun). My corgi is an attention fiend, so she learned pretty quick that nipping results in a loss of attention and play time.
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Lastly, my corgi pup did the EXACT same thing with her kibble.. I tried soaking it in broth, even that got boring. So, I got her a treat dispensing toy and I load up her entire meal into it, she now LOVES her kibble. Corgis love a challenge, they're smart dogs. Maybe give that a try? It's a $10 investment on Amazon (https://www.amazon.ca/Omega-Paw-Tricky-Treat-Orange/dp/B0002DK26M/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=omega%2Bpaw%2Bball&qid=1552483475&s=gateway&sr=8-1&th=1)
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Best of luck! And don't hesitate to message me with any corgi puppy problems!
Lots of big dog stuff here! Here's some nice things for the little guys (~25 lbs and under). Many of these items are good for big dogs, too; will note them with a * sign and list them first in each section.
Treats
Toys
Harnesses, Collars, & Safety
Grooming
Edited to add more+formatting!
I had the same problem with my cat and (overweight) dog. My cat abnormally has a bit of a fear of heights, and won't eat if his food is off the ground. The only way I solved it was by purchasing an RFID pet feeder. It was expensive but has worked extremely well. You place a small chip/tag on the pets collar that the bowl is for, and the lid on the bowl only opens when the animal wearing the collar is near enough to eat. Once they move away, the lid closes and the other pets can't get at the food. I have this one, but there are other more economical options.
A skittish dog wouldn't
https://www.amazon.com/Mutt-Muffs-DDR337-Hearing-Protection/dp/B002CZQ1TA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524808973&sr=8-3&keywords=dog+hearing+protection
I have these since she loves sitting near the boat engines
I was able to solve the problem with this. I've tried various ultrasonic devices before, but this is the only one that has worked. The neighbor behind me had a dog that never stopped barking. I would sit outside by the fence trying to feed it or calm it, and it would bark, growl, and snap at me without stopping. I tried being all zen and wearing out the dogs voice by hanging out for hours. Nothing would stop the insanity.
As soon as this package arrive from Amazon, I read the instructions about very short bursts to avoid hearing damage and went outside. The dog started up at me, and I poked the device over the fense and gave him a loud "Shhhhhh" and then hit the button with it pointed at him. He jumped a couple feet in the air and ran back then stepped forward and started barking again. I gave him another "Shhhhh" and another blast. He jumped, yelped, and scurried to the side of his house and was silent the rest of the day. I thought I'd have to reinforce this behavior over several days because it seemed like a very dumb dog, but the next day I came out with my puppies in the back yard and it started right up. I gave him a simple "Shhhh" and he ran around to the side of his house and shut right up. It's been a couple years, and I've only had to shhh him and/or blast him a handful of times. The neighborhood is quiet again. I live in Fresno. You can borrow mine if you don't want to get your own.
I wouldn’t bother wasting your energy on someone’s else piece of shit, a speaker similar to this one will do the trick;
https://www.amazon.com/Dog-Dazer-II-Ultrasonic-Deterrent/dp/B000IBRI2Y
If your beagle pulls a lot, I would recommend a front harness.
Best thing we ever got for our beagles.
https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Harness-Large-BLACK-SILVER/dp/B0009ZBKG4/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=front+harness&qid=1554853003&s=gateway&sr=8-4
Try an easy walk front clip harness. You will still have to do the whole stopping when she pulls and treating for good behavior, but it makes it harder for her to pull and will kind of make her twist when she pulls. You could also try a face lead harness, but if they are used incorrectly you can hurt your dog. They are fairly inexpensive and helped a lot with my terrier mix.
http://www.amazon.com/Premier-Harness-Large-Black-Silver/dp/B0009ZBKG4/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1375216242&sr=1-1&keywords=easy+walk+harness
Puppy Update!
Sleep is much easier to come by now that her snuggle puppy came from Amazon. The thing has wildly exceeded my expectations. The puppy went from having crying/howling sessions 4-5 times per night to sleeping the entire night without making a peep with it.
Sorry you're having to put up with tis Broken pa.
I personally like the little hand held doggee dazers. They dont hurt the dog, and owner will have no idea youre doing anything.
I have used a similar one on 2 really bad dogs that were being sicced on me before. The dogs stayed about 10 feet from me, still barking, but it was like an invisible force was holding them back.
Dog Dazer II Ultrasonic Dog Deterrent https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IBRI2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_uEECCbWP5CFXH
Heres a video of another one in use.
https://youtu.be/pfRNjPCHnvA
Welcome, you definitely found the right place! If you are determined to keep the friends then you might want to set some boundaries, eventually they will get used to you never agreeing to kiss their dog on the mouth (!!) when you come over and stop bringing it up if you are firm about it. As for the bed, if talking to them about it isn't an option (and it is definitely your right to not let the dog sleep with you) you could try using something like this which isn't audible to humans and will chase the dog away.
Until anything can be resolved, you might want to get your father a Dog Dazer. I doubt he'd want to use it if he's walking your dog but if he's out walking by himself and the dog charges, this could be a legal, non-lethal, non-human-affecting deterrent.
We actually got this gate Pet Gate before we had our baby. We got it to stop our puppy from eating the cat food (which gave her diarrhea) and also to keep her from trying to eat cat turds. I used some masking tape on the little door connected to the opening so that it's not wide open, just open enough for the cats to get through. Wide open it would swing and seemed dangerous for our ankles! Cats happy, dog can't get to bad things and now it's absolutely perfect with our baby. She can't get through the opening and can't get to the bad stuff either!!
Don't go the shelter/rescue road just yet. You're definitely not meeting the physical needs of his breed, however, I think you can start working on some things to make him AND you happier. Some ideas:
Remember you will never, ever be able to beat a BC for exercise. :) Wear them out mentally and the physical part might be easier to manage.
Does your dog like to play fetch? If so this was my saving grace.
Aww! What a little smarty pants.
If he eats too fast you should try a ball like this. He won't be able to break it open so he'll have to roll it around and can only eat the food as fast as it comes out (which is not very fast).
It's called a "gentle leader" harness. Contrary to what it looks like, it's not a muzzle. It's a harness meant to stop dogs who pull when leashed by tugging gently on their noses when they pull, thereby turning them around and confusing them so they stop. It's completely harmless and a much better solution to dogs who are large pullers than things like choke collars. Some dogs will pull so hard during walks that they'll constantly choke themselves, and these are a good solution to that.
I considered getting one for my dog but opted for a chest harness instead since he only weighs 30lbs.
http://www.amazon.com/Premier-Gentle-Leader-Headcollar-Black/dp/B00074L4W2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370713106&sr=8-1&keywords=gentle+leader
[Just one example of that] (http://www.amazon.com/Mutt-Muffs-DDR337-Hearing-Protection/dp/B002CZQ1TA)
there's also mutt muffs if your buddy needs ear protection
Are those doggo earmuffs? Wonder if I can get a pair for my dog edit found a pair on amazon
Their intelligence is what leads to lots of their behavior issues. You gotta exercise that brain too.
Have a look at these toys. They have been great for our cattle dogs over the years. They tend to eat too fast so these tend to be food/game focused.
https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Buddy-Dispensing-Medium-Large/dp/B000KV7ZGQ
https://www.amazon.com/OurPets-Smarter-Interactive-Treat-Colors/dp/B003ARUKTG/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1480272473&sr=1-1&keywords=dog+food+puzzle
https://www.amazon.com/Outward-Hound-Hide-Interactive-Puzzle/dp/B0043A71PU/ref=sr_1_15?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1480272473&sr=1-15&keywords=dog+food+puzzle
I love the above one but one of our dogs is too smart for it. She picks up the covers with her mouth and sets them aside. when she eats all she can reach she tends to turn it over to dump it out.
I'm super impressed with the bell to go out. We haven't been able to get ours to do that.
I have 3 of these and I highly recommend them.
https://www.amazon.ca/SureFlap-MPF001-SureFeed-Microchip-Feeder/dp/B00O0UIPTY/ref=asc_df_B00O0UIPTY/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292945623020&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7717862962368233158&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-530423106392&psc=1. That is the one I've got.
What's it worth to you? Microchip pet feeder
Mars Veterinary Wisdom Panel 3.0 Breed Identification DNA Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EHX2BH0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jz5Jzb1D63SK0
Hopping on here, I have a 5 mo Goldendoodle who did not do well with crate training at first. The woman we got him from suggested that many people had great success using Snuggle Puppy Behavioral Toy and it was an absolute game changer for us. Ollie has slept through the night (minus nights with belly aches), every night since. I would also recommend keeping the crate in your room with you, as others have suggested.
I also highly recommend Zak George’s videos on dog training, I read his book too, but the YouTube videos are extremely informational and worked really well for me when I needed help training Ollie.
For the puppy energy I took Ollie for lots of short walks, I live in Florida so the heat was a definite issue and I didn’t want to keep him out for too long, however, once he was walked he would nap for hours.
Apart from that, just give your puppy lots of love and patience and know it does get easier with time. I was pulling my hair out for the first month, almost two months with Ollie, but now, at month three, it’s like a switch has flipped. I can tell what he needs much more quickly than the first month and he’s much better about trying to communicate what he needs. Good luck OP!
I love this! I kind of want a little meter that tells me where I am in life, but then again, maybe not...
My most epic "invention" was a cross between this, this, and this for people with menstrual cramps. (My friend also thought this was a genius idea. I invented it for her because she had bad cramps.) Basically, you would insert the ball thrower thing and cup it around your uterus and press a button. The umbrella would then extend to completely surround your uterus. You could then press a button and heat your uterus and ovaries from the inside. I don't know how you'd do this without severing something internal, but we swore up and down that we'd make millions.
My advice? Crate train from the very start. It'll give your dog his own space and give you relief from those tiny teeth when you need it. :)
Puppies bite. A lot. Don't be disheartened by it.
Dogs like rewards. Check out positive rewards training like the kikopup channel listed in the sidebar. It'll save you a lot of frustration. I personally find this list of kikopup videos easier to navigate.
Dogs don't know how to walk on a leash until you give them direction. Don't expect him to walk next to you and not sniff everything in front of him. They don't know not to pull and sniff constantly. Teaching heel indoors before you ever need it outside is a lifesaver.
No pushing your dog's nose into an accidental pee. That teaches nothing and makes your dog think you're an unpredictable whacko.
Exercise, exercise, exercise! No forced leash running until he's fully grown, but until then, keep him from getting bored by getting him lots of play time. Training exercises require a lot of focus on his part, so that'll tucker him out too. Treat balls for feeding are super fun and herders seem to love them.
Be his best friend. The quality of his life depends entirely on you. No tying him to a tree out back and going on with life as if he doesn't exist.
Good luck with him. Add a pic to this thread once you get him so I can aww over him. :)
I'm a man and I've had other guys make comments like "who is training who?" at the dog park when my dog doesn't bring a ball back and I have to go get it. It's definitely annoying and I have to bite my tongue from making smart ass remarks.
I know you said you aren't looking for advice, but my dog is also crazy on walks and very reactive. We started using a gentle leader head collar and it made a night and day difference.
We still work on training the normal way during walks, but the gentle leader makes it way easier to pull him away from whatever he is lunging at on the occasion that the training fails and he reacts to something.
Well yes and no - in my humble opinion.
You are doing great at taking your dog at 2 times a day - I do the same, once when I get up and once when I get home from work. We usually are out for no less than an hour each session. The big difference is that I usually have my dog fetch at least 1 of the sessions for the hour and he really get's a good run in.
One suggestion is maybe try to train your dog to play fetch? I know not every dog is going to have that "prey drive" and ability to do it as well as others, but if your's was like my dog - he just didn't know how to play "that game".
I got my dog from an adoption agency and I'm pretty sure he had terrible ill-prepared owners who ended up giving him away. When I took him to his first field and threw a ball for the first time - he just looked at me funny. I had to "teach and train" him what to do. Try this resource and maybe purchase one of these - they help out immensely.
Bottom line, it's probably not good to ONLY walk your dog. He needs to get a good run in at least once or twice a week (at the least and pending his size/breed). Teaching fetch is probably the easiest solution (and the quickest) and it requires little to no physical exertion in comparison to getting in shape to run with your dog.
https://www.amazon.com/Chuckit-Classic-Launcher-Colors-Vary/dp/B00006IX59
Congrats! Asking questions like this is the first step to becoming a responsible GSD owner. I would keep up with the research as you two learn how to become good buddies; I've owned GSDs my whole life and I'm still picking up good tips from trainers and the like. I've got a detailed response below, but feel free to PM me if you want to talk further. I'm always happy to help, and I wish you and your girl the best!
To your questions:
A few other things worth doing that will make both your lives easier:
https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Gentle-Leader-Collar-Training/dp/B00074L4W2
A gentle leader might be your best option. When a dog pulls, it instead gently brings the snout down and stops the pulling motion. That being said, it takes a good bit of training for a dog to accept this (as taught by the helpful dvd they send with it). Best of luck in your search!
If the dog is a wrong fit for your family, don't feel obligated to keep her.
But, if you do want to work with her, there are a few things that I'd suggest based on your post:
I don't think it's a Shar Pei - they're wrinkly, yes, but I don't see any other traits in there. It looks to me like a Bloodhound mix. Note the big ears and dark saddle. There may also be some Labrador in there.
Have you considered a dog DNA test? Wisdom Panel 3.0 ($80) is pretty basic and will tell you what breed your pup is, while Embark Veterinary ($170) gives you the breed as well as a comprehensive DNA health screen.
3 years ago I got my husky, and suddenly theres husky puppies popping up all over the neighborhood. Please know what your getting into with a Husky. They need at least 1 hour of full mental and physical exercise each day... simply expecting them to be a house-dog is just cruel to this particular breed.
Me? I have him pull a 3 wheeled trike in winter, a bike in autumn/spring, walks in summer, all 45 minutes long. One hour dog-park visits on weekends. Daily combing, 30 minutes of toy play every day I get home from work. He's broke two of these (never buying them again) and we've resorted to having simple heavy duty industrial bungee cords and a heavy duty harness.
Even after 3 years I don't understand him. He doesn't care for fetch, or understand the point of tug-of-war, he just looks at you funny when you throw something. He's crazy smart (knows how to open kitchen drawers, twist the front door knob, and knows how to unlock the gate to get into the living room).
My dog was in a fire at 6 weeks old when his parents & 5 brothers/sisters died... and has had severe territorial aggression (disturbed while sleeping can result in a deep bite to your foot or arm) issues we've never been able to address (even with behavioralists and medication). He's a big fan routines though.. which is great because I suck at them so we help each other out.
All in all, a husky is a lot of work, it's a relationship built on respect rather than "I am the master, you are the pet." You get an amazing friend that is beyond just being a dog. Huskies are independent, have strong personalities, and can tell when your having a stressful day so they'll always be there for you when you need them.
Here's one of many I found on Amazon.
Firstly, get your dog neutered. There are places that will do this at discount rates (look for mobile spay/neuter clinics in your area) or local shelters/humane societies. Google it. There is no reason to not neuter your dog (unless you are a certified breeder and you intend to breed this dog).
This is something that my trainer told me that I found really helped - by the time you've seen a dog or person on your walk, your dog has likely been aware of them for some time, either through his superior sense of smell or hearing. This means that as soon as you see a person, you need to start looking at his body cues (See Here and Here) and then react appropriately by redirecting or distracting. My own GSD (female, spayed, 1.5 years old) is almost always in the 'alert' or 'unsure' stage when she sees another dog while we are walking.
As for the other stuff, it sounds like you need to go back to basics. Find a treat or a toy that he really likes and use that to train and only to train (meaning he will not get it unless you are walking/training). For my dog, training treats consist of boiled chicken, string cheese, or hot dogs (depending on what is at hand) but sometimes even this doesn't work. The only toy that she goes consistently bonkers for is a flirt pole. Start off by training a heel command indoors. When he heels consistently inside (without being lured by treats) you can move it outside. Stick to just in front of/behind your house at first, then move to longer walks as he gets more and more consistent with the behavior.
Other than that, consider getting a 30 foot leash (like others have said) and play play play right before going for a walk. Use play time to train cues such as 'drop it' and 'stay'. I also recommend looking up some trainers on youtube (Zak George, Kikopup, Victoria Stilwell). Its not the same as having a professional trainer, but it does help a lot.
Honestly, you exercise your dog while doing things as a family. I don't have a child, but some of my friends with a dog do and them spending quality time together usually consists of them going to the beach with a dog or going to the park with the dog, or going on hikes with the dog. They were active people to begin with (their daughter went on her first camping trip at 1 month old, the dad's a marathoner, the mom's a triathlete) so an active dog fit into their lifestyle. (They have a border collie - the most active of active dogs) Additionally, once your dog is 3 years old, they should calm down a bit, although labs are notorious for acting like puppies far into their adult years.
Generally, this is why people are actually advised away from labs - they're far more high energy than most people expect. They were bred to retrieve and hunt - to work the whole day with a hunter so they've got a lot of energy.
Does your dog have all their shots? Is there a dog park nearby? My dog will get wiped when she gets to play with all the other dogs. Have you taught your dog fetch? That's another great way to get out a lot of energy fast. Do you know what a flirt pole is? It's basically a giant cat toy for dogs (I got mine here). My dog is uber prey driven, so this is the perfect toy for her. You want to go easy on it as your puppy is still very young and their growth plates aren't fused yet, but it can still be very fun and tiring.
Does your daughter have a lot of fun with the dog? Maybe you can figure out some game that will not only tire out your puppy, but allow you to give your daughter your time as well.
Here's what I think you should try:
my bc/lab loves his flirt pole
We can go biking for hours, he'll take a nap, and be ready to go again. With his flirt pole, we can play for about 20 minutes and he's nice and chill after that.
The cat food feeder that reads chips - 3 cats all on separate diets! u/tistonyofist
Amazon: Surefeed Selective Feeder
Edit: Vet recommended this when my cat was eating the kittens’ food & she chonked up fast. Would highly recommend!
Get one of these.
They lose all leverage against you. With an easy pull you can turn them around and thus control them much better on a walk.
But, the sniffing for some dogs is a difficult thing to break
Six weeks is really young. I'm assuming a rescue since any breeder would know to not separate a puppy from it's mom and littler mates at that age. 8 weeks minimum, 10 weeks better. There is still a lot of learning needed to be done there. Not sure how to over come that. As for the potty training 6 weeks is too young to expect much. Figure they can hold it for about an hour for each month of age. So, he's at an hour. You can start crate training. Use it for when he isn't supervised. Like when you're at work. Don't use it for punishment or as a place to put him while you watch TV, etc. Get him outside regularly. It's easier to potty train successfully when they never get used to peeing in the house to big with.
You might want to look into a heartbeat "toy" to keep in the create with him. My friend used this one. Someone else might have a better recommendation.
https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Pet-Love-Snuggle-Behavioral/dp/B000C9YHFS
If he has a hard time with separation, you might want to get him a snuggle puppy (they make snuggle kitties, but the puppy is usually cheaper and kittens can't tell the difference...). It has a heart beat and it will make him feel like he has someone alive to snuggle with.
We got this one to block off the kitchen while still letting our cats in and out. It works pretty well, although the baby has just hit the sweet spot where he's mobile enough to climb through the pet door and just small enough to fit through it. Depending on how young and spry your cats are, they might be able to jump over a regular gate (my chubby cat definitely can't).
I have 2 puppies right now. One is very much like tax, the other is very calm and relaxed.
He's probably bored and needs to get rid of energy. You could walk him around your house on a leash, that would get him better used to the leash and you being a leader, also gives him something to do and releases energy. Make sure he's paying attention to you while you do it.
Make sure he has plenty of toys and things to do. The best toy to keep my 2 occupied has been this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KV7ZGQ?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd
You can fill it with treats or food and they have to work at getting it out
Im sure you already read all about them but Gentle Leaders are fantastic for leash training a dog. They don't act like a muzzle so the dog can still eat, drink, bark, ect while wearing them but they provide just enough pressure on the muzzle when they pull that the dog quickly learns not to pull while on a leash.
I adopted both of my dogs at the ages of 1 and 2, so they were full grown and already strong as hell (boxer/bullmastiff mixes are super strong for their size), and the gentle leader was a key tool I used to help them learn leash manners.
They hated them at first and spent the first 5 minutes trying to paw it off their muzzle but they quickly got used to wearing it and after 2 weeks completely stopped pulling while they were on a leash.
I no longer use the gentle leader and instead use this harness with the leash attached to both the harness and their collar. But I also keep 2 gentle leaders in our "emergency kit" along with an extra tandem leach attachment. The emergency kit is a kit I have put together in case something crazy like a fire or tornado happens and I need to be able to control them both at the same time when things are going crazy around us. It also includes extra meds for the one dog on a daily medication as well as enough food for 3 days.
Sounds like you'll either need to invest in a fence of some sort, brainstorm with your neighbor, or install some kind of movement-activated, high-frequency deterrent. Googled "dog deterrent" for ya, found this.
Carlson Extra Wide Walk Through Gate with Pet Door, 29 to 44-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JJDI0G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_PZSSoOT53cYw6
Bought this one and it's great-- high quality and my small dog has no problems going through.
Beagles are not a violent breed, so you are safe for the most part. Where the playful friction gets to hissing and scratching is that beagles like to corner their prey and bay at it. Cats hate loud noises and being cornered, so this generally ends with the cat doing a face scratch. I have declawed cats (adopted that way), so this cycle repeats every few days. The one time we watched a clawed cat for friends, this was over quite quickly.
Also, consider a pet gate like this. Small door lets cats through but blocks dogs, very good escape hatch/tool to keep dog out of the garbage. Handle lets you through easy, great investment even without cats.
Food dispensing toys will likely slow him down further, and also provide mental stimulation.
I use the tug-a-jug for meals and it works great for my dogs. Depending on kibble size only a few pieces come out at a time.
You can also feed meals by doing training exercises and using kibble as the reward. Again this also has the added benefit of keeping the dog mentally stimulated.
Regarding High quality good, there are so many options out there. I use Taste of the Wild brand, but in the past I've also fed my dogs Blue Buffalo(Stopped because it didn't agree with my dogs stomach) and Costco brand dog food( Kirkland wild domain salmon recipe) There are a lot of good quality foods out there, just avoid brands that use a lot of fillers like Beneful, Ol' Roy, and other dirt cheap foods.
Try microchip food bowls. They unlock when the cat with the programmed microchip approaches. You can have more than one pet on a bowl, so you could have one bowl for the heftier cat and one for the other two to share.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014W40TSW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Are you referring to a latch like this?
Looks like an adorable dog mixed with a cute dog mixed with a perfect doggo. 12/10.
That being said, it looks like there is definitely some dachshund in there. My wife and I did a Wisdom Panel on our little mix. It gave us some insight!
Here are the bits. if you don't mind helping me out (I make 3d printing videos etc..) Goto my Video for the same links as affiliate links. Regular links provided here if you don't want to do that. its also a good video on the Maker Select Duplicator I3
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tpcm4XEbP1Q
It is not monitized with ads.
I have purchased all of these with my own money and use all of them.
you can save a little cash by printing your own z brace parts but the kit is not that expensive and looks DAMNED good and is super fast to install. if I get another maker/i3 printer its what I will use (I printed my first one bought my second one) I actually installed my Z brace kit while it was printing :-)
Z Brace Kit
My Video installation
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iuVSxyYoKk0&t=1s
https://www.amazon.com/RepRap-Champion-Z-Brace-Duplicator-Monoprice/dp/B071SD7B4Z
Replacement Y Plate
https://www.amazon.com/RepRap-Champion-Carriage-Duplicator-Monoprice/dp/B01MUAMRN7
If you have a glass cutter this is a lot cheaper for the glass 12x12 Mirror Pane
https://www.amazon.com/Darice-Inch-x12-Square-Mirror/dp/B002PNUZAA
Or just buy the right size Glass Plate
https://www.amazon.com/RioRand-Borosilicate-heatbed-printer-Reprap/dp/B00GAV9SVU
You can feed him exclusively through food dispensing toys which will help occupy him and drain some energy. I'd pick up a couple different ones like this and rotate their use. See the recommendations below that, most of those toys are pretty good. The Bob A Lot is nice because you can put a decent amount of Kibble in before you have to refill. For hard puzzles, there's one called the Tug-A-Jug which lasts a long time. Freeze creamy stuff or wet food in Kongs to make them last a bit longer. If you can find a type of bone he really likes, keep a bunch in stock; chewing can be great for tiring him out.
And like other posters have suggested, practicing a little training every day will make a difference. Teach new tricks or mix in some basic obedience cues with a game of fetch or tug, using the toy as the reward.
Slap a pair of these on frightened puppers
For sure MuttMuffs, and follow the instructions on them. After making sure they fit and trimming the straps, don't use them for fun or games at home. It needs to be a thing the pup learns to love having on in the plane because it makes her ears less painful.
Consider having some blankets and towels to keep the vibrations of the plane low on your pup. They'll want to lean on the sidewalls (at least mine loves to) and that can be more vibration than the seat-cushion would allow.
Definitely schedule in bathroom breaks often, maybe 2 hours or so with at least a half hour on the ground. Treats for encouragement. And if you have a passenger along with the pup, consider having them sit in the back with the dog (if you can put her the back seats and not forced to keep her in the baggage area only). Company is nice back there for her!
Find a good vet and positive reinforcement trainer or take classes still positive reinforcement. Makes sure to crate train. Be consistent with all training everyday. Give lots of mental mad physical stimulus during day. In morning before you leave house talk potty walk and play to use some energy up. Make training fun, exercise some before you start will help them pay attention to you. Which every way you go class or trainer you must still work with your dog daily between the sessions. Being consistent is the only way they will learn what is expected. Only working onece a week isn't going to help.
Understand dogs do not know what we expect of them and must be taught. Again be consistent use redirecting for bad behavior giving a positive experience.
Potty training again make it fun and make a solid routine. If caught in house simply sternly say "no out" and walk outside. I'd suggest bell training to ring every time you go out with out command also give dog a way to say I need out. When goes outside be excited with lots of love and treats. I'd buy a small carpet clean, use enxyme ceeaner with it, for messes they can happen when change causes stress.
They are perpetual toddlers who will always need us including entertainment. You've got this wihh everyone here to help when we can.
Also a week not hearing from a rescue is not ghosting you. They stay busy with many run by volunteers. Sometimes it takes a little bit for them to go over everything before making a choice and other people are also interested.
I am glad it worked out and you have you new family member.
A few toys ideas:
UOLIWO Dog Treat Dispensing Toy, Duck Dog Toy Squeak Dog Treat Puzzle Toy Durable Plush Chew Toys for Small Medium Large Dogs Training Playing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N2NLBQ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Xl7LDbJTMP3F3
AWOOF Dog Puzzle Toys, Pet Snuffle Mat for Dogs, Interactive Feed Game for Boredom, Encourages Natural Foraging Skills for Cats Dogs Bowl Travel Use, Dog Treat Dispenser Indoor Outdoor Stress Relief https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N1JYYCW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ym7LDb7DCBKCJ
Our Pets IQ Treat Ball Interactive Food Dispensing Dog Toy (ASSORTED COLOR) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ARUKTG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_in7LDb9AX6C5Q
Trixie Dog Activity Flip Board Strategy Game (9.05 inch) (Multicolored) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076MGW9RM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Fn7LDbBAQ1KAK
The Trixie has tons of different ones.
We have 5:
Slow Feeder
Kong Wobbler
Maze Treat Dispenser
IQ Treat Ball
Buster Food Cube
​
We use his kibble in these but will add treats cut up to pea-size or ham, chicken, etc also cut up along with the kibble.
Rambo eats both of his meals out of a puzzle toy.
​
We also have black Kongs that I put stuff in (kibble, rice, veggies, etc) , plug with some peanut butter or EZ cheese, pour some chicken broth into and then freeze
lmao
However considering the "redneck meth head who owns a giant dog" detail, perhaps this could be helpful for OP...
https://www.amazon.com/Chuckit-Classic-Launcher-Thrower-Assorted/dp/B00006IX59
My dog is obsessed with his Tricky Treat Ball. It is consistently difficult for him and he's constantly picking it up and running to different areas to try and get more food. I LOVE it.
I have also tried the tug-a-jug, but my dog doesn't care for it and it's REALLY loud on hard floors. REALLY LOUD.
You say she doesn't like toys. What about food? There are all sorts of puzzle toys now that dispense food, ranging from obvious ones like kongs to treat dispensing balls to more elaborate puzzles.
How about field trips? Getting out in public, seeing and smelling new things, will be mentally stimulating even if she can only walk slowly, even if she lays down to watch the action. For example, during nice weather, go grab coffee and set up a bed under the outdoor table for her to lay on. Even if she can't walk and run for an hour every day, she can still spend an hour outside with you sometimes.
Also, for the sake of walking on slippery floors, some people to use dog boots with rubber bottoms. They're generally sold for winter wear, but people use them for boating and older dogs to give traction. If your dog tolerates them, or if you're willing to spend some time counterconditioning to help your dog enjoy them, that could be an option sometimes.
To everyone that has a dog also in love with these ducks, I recommend the Hide a Squirrel
My dog was abused for many years before we got her. Years after that she still never played with any toy. My wife received the bumble bee version of this in the secret santa exchange, and we've since moved to squirrels. These two toys are her absolute favorite, and she is always ready to play when she hears them!
I have [Newfoundlands] (http://imgur.com/d9wVa2k) ... two of them to be exact... and they can be a real bear to walk. I have [gentle leaders] (http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Gentle-Leader-Headcollar-Large/dp/B00074L4W2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398204696&sr=8-1&keywords=gentle+leader), which are awesome at making them easy to handle for me. The two dogs outweigh me considerably, and they both have learned to mind very well while walking with these on. I take them off when we are at home and all is well. You should try them out, they work much better than the choke collar without the fear of hurting your dog.
A gentle leader is amazingly effective at reducing pulling. My dog went from pulling nonstop to walking with a loose leash. It does take some time for them to get used to it, though.
Is it perhaps a head collar and not a full blown muzzle? I use a head collar on my lab cause she pulls when she's excited; its just a strap over her nose and around the back of her head, leash hooks under the mouth. Mine would also never hurt someone but it does keep her from opening her mouth enough to bite.
Gentle Leader
Edit: I only ask because people often think she's wearing a muzzle or ask why my dog wearing a muzzle when she's really not.
Get a bike and a walky or similar attachment. It has a shock absorbing system so that if your dog runs ahead or jerks you, you won't fall over. Chances are you'll eat it at least once. This is the best way to exercise a dog that doesn't have much toy drive, it's pretty common for Siberians to have minimal interest in toys in my experience.
You can also do things like get a dog backpack and put water bottles in it on your walks (work up to it). You can also teach her how to pull weight (a tire, for example). Siberians are born to run and pull, exploit that drive and I guarantee you will have a much easier time with her.
They actually make leash attachments you can put on the side of your bike so your dog can run with you safely without pulling you or getting run over. I've been considering getting one for my dog since I don't run, but he sure loves to.
We use this on our two Danes.. They dont seem to mind much, and its easy to take off a 1/8-1/4" without hitting the quick.. Stinks though..
http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7300-PT-4-8-Volt-Pet-Grooming/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395630407&sr=8-1&keywords=dremel+pet
Something interesting to get is a [bob-a-lot.](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JQLNB4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JiVwxbF4BKWQC
) Or a flirt pole!
Both are fun, interactive toys that you don't see too often and I would love to get them at a dog birthday party.
http://www.amazon.com/Kyjen-PP02290-Exercise-Training-Replacement/dp/B0042I5G2I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1419028105&sr=8-2&keywords=flirt+pole&pebp=1419028113252
Honestly, I would not risk it and switch to a flirt pole. Mine looks like a little squirrel and I imagine your dog would very much like that.
Hey man two weeks ago I was in the exact same situation you are. My GSD is a male and 14 weeks now. Since two weeks ago his mouth has gotten extremely softer. He still has an outburst here and there and I do lose my temper sometimes, but if its one thing this little guy has taught me, it's patience. I was at the end of my rope just like you guys and figured I would give it just a little more time and I have seen a huge difference in him in those two weeks. They don't call German Shepherd puppies land sharks for no reason. Now potty training is another thing....
Also, he does try to assert his dominance over me but thats become less frequent as well. He just wants to be a leader, you can tell. He used to hump me, got his first red rocket at 10 weeks, started marking at 12ish weeks (doesn't even lift his leg yet), so I can tell that if I'm not confident and assertive that he's just going to be a hassle to not only myself but others. You have to show him that those are your children and are more important that he is. One nice thing though is that he rarely barks and when he does I remove him from the situation.
Oh and I don't exercise him every day because of those damn hips, but I do play with him a lot. It helps that I currently stay at home all day but that's not going to last for too much longer so we'll see what happens afterwards.
Anyways, this turned out into a bit of a rant but if you want to talk just shoot me a PM or something.
Edit: Get her one of these! http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042I5G2I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's like the best thing in the world to him. I'm also using it to teach him drop it so it works out. Only thing is he loves to chew on the chew toy and the rope so be careful with that or it'll come apart. Nothing some duck tape won't fix though, I hope.
https://www.amazon.com/Mutt-Muffs-DDR337-Hearing-Protection/dp/B002CZQ1TA
If you can't find any I think it's okay to bring them (without hearing protection) hunting since you won't be shooting much or for long periods of time.
I would just not bring them to the range if you can't find dog hearing protection. Last time I went to the range a dog was tied to a tree 20 yards behind the firing line and I can't imagine that was pleasant for several hours. That could seriously mess up their ears.
Edit: From a quick google search http://www.amazon.com/Mutt-Muffs-DDR337-Hearing-Protection/dp/B002CZQ1TA
They do lose hearing, but usually as they are pretty old for a dog (10+).
They do make hearing protection for dogs, but I've never seen anyone use them. They also won't work for dogs that go into water after birds.
There are ear protectors for dogs. If you order now you will have enough time to try them on and see if they fit your dog and whether she likes them or not. If she's comfortable with them you might be able to shield her from the noise and the flashes by keeping her inside with you until the noise has blown over. You also won't have to expose her to an unknown environment that could additionally worry her. At home, with you, with the ear protection, cuddling on the sofa or wherever, might actually be the calmest situation you can provide her, and you don't even need to drive that far :)
Just my 2 cents, I hope it can help you.
Maybe a toy you put food in? Mine likes her food out all the time as well so she can pick at it, but if I put it in a toy she loves to knock it around and get little rewards. It's like a job, or a puzzle, it makes her feel accomplished and it's fun! I only mention it since she's making a lot of noise with one right now.
We have this and this and this and few ones with flippy little doors and whatnot that are good for holding a snack. It might be too stressful and frustrating for him at first, but if you stick with it and show him how it works he might take to it. Best wishes to your doggos!
Treat dispensing toys, puzzles, flirt pole (puppy can play with this some but no jumping or sharp turns), kongs, crate, training treats, blankets, enzymatic cleaner. And beanie babies for my dog that is obsessed with them :P
You can also get food/bully sticks/antlers on amazon but I usually order them from chewy.com
Edit:
Here are some of our favorite training treat brands.
Treat dispensing toy examples
I literally just made a post last night about puzzle toys! I'll go ahead and paste it here:
>I'm just going to start listing off puzzle toys that I like since I don't know which ones you'd used before.Kong toys are excellent ways to stimulate using food. You can also try food puzzles, such as the IQ Ball or Trixie Pet products. Snuff mats can also be helpful, if your dog likes to "forage" for food.
>
>Licking and chewing can also relieve stress. There's a lick mat that I recently found that my pups really love. You can put something like peanut butter or yogurt on it, freeze it, and my dogs go at it for 30 minutes. For chewing, you can look at variety of different things, such a bully sticks, chew toys, Himalayan dog chews, etc. My dogs like all of the above, but the longest lasting chews for them are Benebones.
>
>Search high and low for these types of toys and puzzles. You can often find discounted pet toys at Marshalls or Ross, if you have these types of stores near you. I know they can be kind of expensive, but a good brand will last forever, and for my dogs, they've been great investments!
>
>You can also make your own games, if you'd rather not purchase toys. Hide treats under plastic cups and tell [your dog] to "go find!" You can play hide-and-go-seek around the home. For a DIY toy, put treats in a muffin tin and cover each tin with a tennis ball for him to remove. If he is comfortable with these in the house, you can take these types of games outside, too.
As for helping your dog figure them out, I think you just kind of go with the flow. Show your dog, if he's having trouble, and be patient -- if he's not accustomed to figuring out puzzles, he's going to have to learn. Use the most scrumptious treats to engage and incentivize him.
I know there's research out there that suggests that dogs don't learn well by watching, but my puppy was having trouble with one of those Trixie pet puzzles, at which point I brought in my older dog to show him. He caught on right away.
My Boxer is a connoisseur of puzzle toys. In Minnesota, it gets way too cold for us to go on long walks to curb his energy, so I engage his brain when it becomes a frozen wasteland outside.
I feed Keenan out of a large Kong Wobbler -- he gets at least one meal a day out of this. It takes him about 30 minutes to work out all the kibbles.
IQ Treat Ball is great for pets that work out puzzles super quickly. This is a fairly difficult toy. Be warned, if you have hard floors, this is loudest thing ever. It's also the perfect size to get stuck under sofas with legs.
Omega Paw Tricky Treat Ball is easier to roll around and get kibble sized treats out of. It's also a pain to fill and clean. We don't use this one much.
Everlasting Fun Ball is also hard to fill and difficult to clean, but it's tough. When Keenan is on my last nerve, he gets something super delicious in this and it keeps him occupied until he gets frustrated with it.
Monster Mouth is really tough to get things out of for pups. I'll stuff full sized milk bones in this and leave just a tip hanging out so he can try to pull it out. It keeps him pretty busy, but he gets frustrated by this one quickly.
Buster Food Cube is brilliant in design--you can make it easier and harder to get food out of by twisting the opening. This was Keenan's first puzzle toy and when he figured it out, he got a lot of enjoyment "hiking" it through his back legs at a hard surface to make it bounce off and spray kibbles around. It's loud on hard floors. So loud my ex SO threw it away.
I also pick up random puzzle toys at the store when I see them. I can't find accurate representations on Amazon. Most of them are soft/silicone that you can bend to open and put treats in. Keenan likes his big football one because he knows the yummy, big treats go in that one.
Here ya go. They rape you in prices at petsmart, good lord.
I don't know how big Potter is but Pepper is 37lbs now and the medium was almost too big for her. We tightened it up all the way and it fit, so she'll have plenty of room to grow.
This harness is awesome for pullers.
My brother has an 115lb Malamute that this harness makes him easy for me to walk and I'm 5"3 130lbs.
My father also uses this on his 80lb Malamute, he has two bad shoulders and while she will still freak out in excitement whenever she sees another dog, this harness helps her little tantrum stay in place, shes never pulled he or I down.
Like others have said, crate train. Wrangler hated his crate the first time I put him in it, so go slowwww. Tips:
I read a good crate training guide online, but I can't find it. When I do I will post it!
Dog Dazer
>how do you prevent litterbox snacking?
Litter box is behind a gate in a room the dog cannot get into. At 55 lbs, I assume your dog probably couldn't fit through a little cat door in a gate like this, but if he could fit through, figure out some other way that only the cat can get to the litter box.
>Also where do you feed your cat so that the dog doesn't eat their food?
If you're free-feeding your cat, don't. They have a tendency to not self-regulate their meals well, and that's why so many cats are overweight and obese.
The cat is fed on top of my desk, and his food is taken away the second he's done eating. I do not leave the bowl unsupervised.
sometimes it is really hard to enforce a "you can't go there" rule. We have three dogs, and they do things all the time that they know they aren't allowed to, you can see they feel guilty about, but they do it anyway (like children).
We have a baby gate that has a swinging door we can walk though, and the door itself has a cat door ( like this ) that we use to keep the dogs out of our front room that has the cat box.
Maybe get something like this to use as a training tool or stepping stone until you can fully train your dog? Also, with having the door itself there it is simple to walk though, and the cats can go through the bottom.
Although it's simple enough to say "the dog should know what they can and can't do, why aren't they doing it?" sometimes we have to provide some help to them as well. If this is a new home with new animals it could be a real challenge for her pup. I know when my boyfriend (two dogs) and I (one dog) moved in together, we had a lot of challenges to overcome to get into a happy household groove.
Edit
I have been a dog owner my whole life; and most of the dogs I've had have gotten into cat food any chance they have gotten, and will eat as much of it as they can physically handle. Something about it makes them go crazy. Having a gate like this gives the kitties a safe place to be away from the dog if they want (that's one reason we have it at our house) and it keeps the dog from eating the cat food. Some dogs will just always eat it, doesn't matter the consequences.
Several companies make baby gates with pet doors, this might be a good option for you. I am something of a baby gate expert, as I have four dogs and baby gates have been a part of my life for many years, and I've had clients use these with elderly pets to great success. If the hole is still big enough to be of concern, you can make it smaller with some cardboard.
We have six cats that vary from 6lbs to 20lbs. We needed gates that could let them into the areas they needed easily but keep the kiddo from, say, playing in the litter boxes that are in the office and bathroom. After much searching and struggling with standard tension gates that don't fit right in our house, we tried these and they are great. Easy to open & close 1 handed. All of the cats can fit through the opening (we had the doors cut off because they are going to be open all of the time anyway) and kiddo has only tried to go through once. I just put a wrap of duct tape at the top of the cat opening and all of the cats still fit through, but kiddo doesn't even try anymore. With the extenders, it even covers the awkward, wide opening between the our kitchen and dining room.
I have a 6 month old ACD mix, so we're in the same boat! They LOVE to learn new things and are very easy to train for the most part. The problem with ours is carrying those skills over to distracting environments, as he wants to pay attention to everything besides me.
Doing all you can to give him as much exercise and mental stimulation as possible will go a loooong way. If you don't, he'll probably become a terror.
If you're not making him work for his food, you're doing it wrong! Get a Buster Cube or a Tug-A-Jug or any similar food toys. It will make him think, and it might help you separate his food from the other dog's.
You need to always make him sit or down or some other command before he gets his food. I usually make mine sit, then I put the food down, and he won't go eat it until I release him. Once he can do that, it should be pretty easy to keep him from eating your other dog's food.
Do as much training with him as possible. Working his mind will wear him out pretty fast. Games like 101 Things to do with a Box really make him think. Teach a bunch of commands and give him pop quizzes by doing a bunch of them in random order for 5-10 minutes.
One cool thing I did was buy one of those big inflatable balls for kids you always see at Target or Wal-Mart in those big tall bins. He LOVES it! He herds it around the yard and wears himself out and I don't have to do anything except kick it around every once in a while. It's also really cool to see his herding instincts kick in without ever being taught how to do it.
You also need to embrace his velcro dog qualities. ACDs are great off-leash dogs because they always want to be by you. Find an empty softball field, an empty dog park, any large area with a fence, and get to work on it!
You should invest in some of these. They have saved my dog's face from the dashboard many times.
The bed lower plate is slightly thicker than tin foil and bends if you have a strong draft in the room. This is a 3mm drop in replacement. Highly recommended.
Yeah I'd say bad bearing. The ones The came with my Plus were noisy too on fast moves.
I picked up some better ones from Amazon and switched them out when I had the bed apart for the Y carriage replacement.
Bearings (pack of 12 for $8.99 so I've got spares for down the road): edit: they're $10.99 now, Amazon having fun with supply and demand.
CTYRZCH 12Pcs LM8UU Linear Bearings for 3D Printer, RepRap Prusa Mendel DIY CNC Motion, Prusa Mendel, reprap(8mm x 15mm x 24mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CE4H5PC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_6t3NqiIxMNsPK
These were longer than the stocks and fit perfectly in the brackets on the Select Plus. Haven't changed my X axis bearings yet.
Also, I upgraded the Y carriage, highly recommended:
RepRap Champion Y Carriage Plate Upgrade for Wanhao Duplicator i3 and Monoprice Maker Select V1, V2, V2.1 and Plus 3D printers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUAMRN7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_bTZZKsFBnZWRg
I also had issues with bed leveling on my MP select, but I fixed it with an aftermarket carriage plate. I haven't leveled the bed since installing it, and I've had no issues.
Most dog owners are also well acquainted with this principle
This sounds a lot like boredom to me. Is it possible to get the dog out exercising more? Other things that may help are training classes to get him to think, or doggy daycare (nothing tires my guys out more than running with other dogs all day). Something that you can use indoors to help tire him out is a flirt pole. It will cost about $10 in supplies, and if you follow the "rules" that site lists then Pikachu is getting mental and physical stimulation, and you barely have to do anything.
Other than that, you might need to babygate off a section of the house - kitchen or bathroom, and get him used to being left in there. It's easier to keep one room spotless than it is to keep an entire house. Make sure to get a few puzzle toys this is a favourite of my dogs or a kong to freeze his lunch in to keep him occupied.
Good luck!
Both my dogs LOVE this toy Hide-A-Squirrel, its great because you can stuff it with a ton of toys and it keeps the dog occupied for a while trying to pull all the toys out. It's really popular on Amazon as well.
Another good classic option would be a Kong and treats to fill it like hard treats or soft treat.
Have you considered using a Gentle Leader harness? I had one for my rottie and it was absolutely amazing.
I was in your exact position. I used this to stop the pulling (or at least make it manageable) and this as a safety precaution for broken leashes, where you attach 1 end to their regular collar and the other end to the gentle leader harness (make the end attaching to the regular collar longer than the other so it only gets pulled on if the other attachment fails) and there ya go. An anti-pull harness with a fail safe!. (Also make sure not to cheap out on your primary leash)
Just curious why the pronged choker? Is he particularly aggressive?
My english is sweet enough that I've never needed anything other than a gentle leader during training.
http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Harness-Large-Black-Silver/dp/B0009ZBKG4/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1464958107&sr=1-1&keywords=easy+walk+harness
This is the go-to for front harness. Which ones have you tried? Are you looking for things to stop her from pulling?
[These] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006IX59/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zKmcAbB6ZHD24) are really great imo. Let's you throw farther.. Used to wear my Aussie out in no time.
this is one of those where different cultures having different definitions for the same word would cause a funny situation:
You - chuck = place; as in 'place it in and go'
US - chuck = throw, potentially quite hard, with little regard for accuracy; 'throw, potentially quite hard, with little regard for accuracy at the drive slot and go'
haha. clearly nobody is actually going to read it that way, but would be humorous.
bonus: Chuckit
Here's my list:
Kong - you can stuff it with peanut butter or canned dog food (and even freeze it!) to give to your pup. Super helpful for crate training and just for keeping the pup busy for a couple minutes.
Kibble ball like this one - keeps the pup from scarfing down it's whole meal in 20 seconds. Also - you can enjoy your coffee in the morning without worrying what the pup is getting up to.
Training treats (eg Zuke's) are great for clicker training - they're small so your pup doesn't get too many calories from training sessions
Harness and long lead (30 feet or so) - really handy for tiring the pup out. You can walk through a park/field or whatever, and the pup can zoom around and get some of their puppy fuss out.
Nature's Miracle for accidents - it's an enzymatic cleaner and works really well for getting the smell out of the carpet (and keeping them from viewing that spot as a bathroom next time!)
For the toys - it's really helpful to split them into 2-3 groups, and rotate which group is out every week or so. Otherwise they can get bored of all their toys
*This article is my go-to for crate training. It has lots of ideas for games to build up a positive association with the crate, and helps you work up to leaving the pup alone.
I would suggest a Gentle Leader. It works the same way people control horses in that it controls the nose. We have been using it to teach our dog to stop pulling/jumping and it is really great.
From the description on Amazon "Designed so that owners can communicate with their pet in a way they instinctively understand, the Gentle Leader painlessly and effectively removes the dog’s natural tendency to pull by placing gentle pressure on calming points and eliminating uncomfortable pressure on the throat. In addition to reducing a dog’s desire to pull away, the Gentle Leader is also a very effective tool in combating lunging, jumping, excessive barking and helping to calm an aggressive and/or anxious animal."
It's called the Easy Walk Harness. They're nice.
I have used a no-pull harness for dogs that have needed leash training.
Something like this.
Anything that attaches in front of their chest will work better than a regular choke collar because it redirects the dog rather than increasing their nervous energy. Also, waiting for the dog to be calm before moving forward is a good idea. You may start giving the dog a treat once they are sitting calmly so they realize that calm behavior is good. I usually wait until my dog is sitting and giving me his attention before giving a treat and starting to walk again.
If she’s having issues sleeping at night, we got our pup this heartbeat dog toy. I thought it was a total gimmick, but holy hell it is awesome. Totally worth the $40
https://www.amazon.com/SmartPetLove-Snuggle-Puppy-Behavioral-Brown/dp/B000C9YHFS/ref=asc_df_B000C9YHFS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198076665015&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5067980424931547813&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9008335&hvtargid=pla-352722601139&psc=1
Invest in one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C9YHFS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5KRrybP8ATAGN
I've been there. My pup screamed like she was being murdered all night and I couldn't sleep. 99% sure the neighbors would have called the cops on me, honestly.
Your puppy is scared. Puppies cry like that to alert the rest of their family that they're lost. He has NO idea where he is and he has been separated from his littermates and mother and all he's ever known. So it'll be like this for a couple of nights.
If you get your puppy from a breeder (or even a rescue where he/she was part of a litter), ask them to provide you a blanket or towel that the other puppies have slept with - when it's time for the puppy to come to your house, he/she will miss his littermates more than anything else. We combined that with a Snuggle Puppy and it helped him overnight a lot (remember - it's a HUGE change to go from spending every moment in a squirmy, warm, heartbeat-y pile of pups to sleeping alone in a crate).
Puppy blues are real. Know and prepare.
Read Before and After Getting Your Puppy and Perfect Puppy in 7 Days - 90% of the advice I could give that saved us came from those books. They're wonderful.
As others said, the biting is insane. Have realistic expectations. Potty training takes a long time. Growing out of biting takes a long time. Sleeping through the night takes a long time.
Parvo risks vary from area to area, so ask your vet whether you should take your pup out in public - and if they say don't go in public, understand that they mean your pup shouldn't walk where unvaccinated dogs have possibly been (for instance, we didn't go on the trail near our house or on our front sidewalk because our house is directly on the route to the trail). But you CAN and SHOULD do playdates with vaccinated dogs, have lots of puppy parties at your house and friend's houses, meet TONS of people of all genders/races/ages/etc., take him/her to dog-friendly places like Lowes (I used the cart when I was nervous about him getting parvo from the floor - it's more about socialization than exercise!), etc.
Tell the old guy to cut it out (tell him to feed at his place, not yours, or you'll report him to the police) and move the bowls back to his place. If he ignores you, get video evidence and go to the police.
The cats can be caught and re-homed by volunteers that do that sort of thing. You can find info online. If they're purebred cats, they actually could be sold (not for 200,000, but maybe 10,000 or 20,000), so that's something to keep in mind, too.
And to keep the cats away from your place, a "dog dazer" or some other anti-barking, ultrasonic device works on most cats and dogs that cant be heard by people. The Dazer one is supposed to work on cats up to 40 feet away from you, so you don't need to be very close for it to work. The noise hurts their ears, so, along with you moving the bowls away from your place, they will learn to associate that painful noise with your property.
Another one that won't disturb the local population: an ultrasonic dog repellant device
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000JJDI0G?pc_redir=1405297237&robot_redir=1
Bam!
That's pretty neat. I had a food dispenser for my last dog (who was a pukey guy). When the food got released, it did make a lot of noise. How smart is Henry? He'd have to work for food to get it out. The dog I have now is smart, so we put some food in there and he has to work to get it out. http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Premier-Buddy-Tug-A-Jug-Medium/dp/B000KV7ZGQ.
Also, some of the rescues I've helped with recommend freezing treats in a Kong.
Also, you might want to bring it up next time Henry has a check up. Our last dog required daily antacids. The acid was making him throw up.
I was thinking about getting this for my GSD/Husky mix - supposedly it works great and the shock absorption for sudden movements works great!
Yeah, totally safe so long as you do it the right way. You get something like this to attach the dog to the bike and you use a harness, not a collar. Also, unless your dog is super athletic then you don't want to go really fast. I tend to stay on the sidewalk that encircles the park as well and I don't run here anywhere else but in parks. She also has an orange safety bandana that says "No Touch, No Talk, No Eye Contact" as well as a yellow safety vest. You never attach the dog to your handlebars or hold the leash while you ride because they can pull you off that way since the leash isn't attached to your center of gravity.
Get a Dremel. My dog hates having her nails done but this helps and if you do it once a week each nail only needs a couple seconds.
​
https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7300-PT-4-8V-Nail-Grooming/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?gclid=CjwKCAjw-ITqBRB7EiwAZ1c5U6B-ZgXHftq0k1wpSGxTsA1RXndQazBXY1UcMPQxLMtypQOLGPP9dBoCbBEQAvD_BwE&hvadid=178372441138&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9003516&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=2906473794459825708&hvtargid=aud-676677759484%3Akwd-11844123421&hydadcr=15947_9888708&keywords=dremmel+dog+nail+grinder&qid=1564588389&s=pet-supplies&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1
That particular one isn’t great. You have to replace the batteries which is annoying and it’s just not very powerful. If you want to buy a nail grinder I recommend just getting a Dremel . The battery can be recharged and it will last a long time.
https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7300-PT-4-8V-Nail-Grooming/dp/B003TU0XG4
I use this. Dog might be scared of the noise though. If your dog is scared of things like vacuums you're gonna have to just trim it yourself with the simple clippers.
I use a Dremel to grind my pups nails. It took him a little bit to get used to it, but for me, it is easier to see where the quick is.
https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7300-PT-4-8V-Nail-Grooming/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1517489576&sr=8-2&keywords=dremel+dog+nail+grinder
I feel your pain. Nail trimming can be a total nightmare (for you and your dog). If you're using actual clippers, make sure they are very sharp (dull blades will squeeze the nail, causing a lot of pain and sometimes cracking the nail). Dremel trimmers are definitely something worth looking into too. But even with the best tools, it can be a huge chore. I had a dog who passed away a few months ago who would just lay there and let you trim his nails. Sometimes he'd actually fall asleep while you did it. He was a godsend.
They make one specifically for dogs
Dremel 7300-PT 4.8V Pet Nail Grooming Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_sRJVzbV6SE0PA
But I use my pedicure one and it works great on my dog
Amopé Pedi Perfect Electronic Foot File, Extra Coarse https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013AX6U6Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yQJVzb7T1EP9F
We've just abandoned any stuffed toys for Joe, because what is enjoyable for him is methodically ripping them apart. The first thing he goes for is the tag, because he knows that comes off easily, and after that he goes for the seams :)
Anyway, best toys for him are ones that we play with together: this flirt pole is great and I'm surprised how sturdy it is; we have a rope tug toy (it used to be a snake but the head was stuffed and so it got ripped apart within 24 hours!); and we have a Hol-ee roller ball which he enjoys chewing occasionally and chasing even more rarely! The holes are a little big to put regular treats in, but once I put the end of his rawhide chew in there and he had a LOT of fun with it, and another time I stuffed it with socks and an old dishcloth for him to pull out the holes because I thought it would replace stuffed toys a bit more safely. Then he tried to eat my sock, so I haven't done it since :P But it's fine if you're going to supervise!
We also have a rawhide chew for him and an antler. He really likes the antler; I think next time I would get the antlers that are split down the middle so that it's even more attractive to him.
I wouldn't recommend fishing line. It can get caught up in the dog or you and would be more painful than something thicker. Well, if you are as clumsy as my dog and I are, it can. My dog uses her paws and the cord on mine caught on her carpal pad. It gave her a little burn :(
She also once knocked my feet out from under me while chasing, which shocked us both but luckily we were both ok. I am really careful now to not have her cross behind me!
I have this one. I like it. The toys that came with it didn't last very long, but I just use other toys that I already had.
Yes! I second this. I just got a different version of this toy today and we all LOVE it! We live in an apartment and I'm not comfortable taking my puppy out on walks since she still needs to finish her puppy shots. The toy in the model we got squeaks and rattles! Plus it comes with a second replacement toy to attach when the other gets worn out.
outward hound tail teaser
A flirt pole is like a giant cat toy for dogs.
Every dog is different! This is just a rough list, but hopefully some of these things will entertain your puppy:
They make puzzle toys for dogs that force them to work out how to get the food- have you tried those? I've had to pick one up for a cat to put treats in, because if I do not stimulate him intellectually, he'll pull apart the cabinets.
these or these.
Hi!
My chi’s LOVE food puzzle games. We got our teacup an IQ ball on amazon and she rolls that thing around - it gets her some activity, feeds her, and she uses her brain. My bigger chi likes this one
Maybe that will help?
how old is she?
leashes/collars:
our puppy was cleared to go home at 7.5 weeks and 9 pounds. we went to target and got a boots and barkley size XS collar. it was $4. we only spent $4 because within a month she was in a M collar. she's going to need a large collar in the next few months.
we had a lighter leash from our other dog (cocker spaniel) that we used until we switched collars, then we got a heavier duty 6' nylon leash off of amazon. 6' is a good length for training because you can do come and stay with 6'.
it's really tempting to spend a lot on cute collars and leashes when you get them, but they grow so quickly that it really is kind of a waste of money...
toys:
a puppy kong would be good (believe this is the baby blue one). she'll be learning to mouth. we also got some softer plush toys for her, smaller, because she can't get her mouth around the bigger ones. samus REALLY liked small flat toys and there isn't stuffing for them to rip out of with their razor sharp puppy teeth. the stuffing can make them sick if they ingest it. also, some of the flat ones have a crinkly paper sound and not a squeaker, which can also be better.
https://www.jefferspet.com/products/flat-farm-toys
goldens are REALLY smart so you have to keep them busy. there are a lot of 'puzzle toys' out there but samus always figured them out within 10 minutes. even as a 2-3 month old puppy the ones that say 6 months + were way too easy (she is just turning 4.5 months).
my husband found this toy on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/OurPets-Smarter-Interactive-Treat-Colors/dp/B003ARUKTG
it is our LIFE SAVER. it is the ONLY toy that keeps samus interested for HOURS. it has to roll on carpet though, so if you dont have carpet it might not be a good choice. we tried other ball/puzzle toys and she would figure them out. we put a handful of her food or some treats and her food in the ball and she is so busy. the kicker with this toy is that the inner platform has an adjustable hole to make it more difficult for the food to fall out of, and then it falls into the ball and has to fall out of the second (outer) hole. so, out of everything we have ever purchased, this was the best $8 we have spent.
bowls:
we used a small 2 cup pyrex like dish for the first couple of months and now she is in a Kong slow feed bowl from PetSmart.
https://www.petsmart.com/dog/supplies-and-training/bowls-and-feeders/food-and-water-bowls/kong-slow-feed-puzzle-dog-bowl-5231739.html?gclid=CJTgksmI9dECFY62wAodQoEK5A&lsft=utm_source%3Agoogle%2Cutm_term%3A5231739%2Cutm_medium%3APLA%2Cutm_content%3AGSC%20-%20PLA%20-%20Hardgoods%20%7C%20Dog%20-%20Supplies%20
food:
we do natural balance limited ingredient lamb and brown rice puppy food. puppy food is important because they're growing. our vet told us large breed isn't necessary because large breed is more for your dane sized puppies. whatever you feed her, make sure you are starting with an 80% breeder provided food/20% your food, next day do 70/30, 60/40, etc...slow moving or it will upset their bellies and you'll be sad because they can't hold their liquid poops in since they are puppies. ask the breeder for a weeks worth of food for the transition.
misc:
if you have a petco near you, ask them for the puppy coupon book. it'll come with a lot of 50% off coupons for treats that you can use with price matching and manufacturer coupons.
I took these 50% one bag of 12oz tricky trainer treats, looked on their website, got a price match (it's usually a ton cheaper on their website) and then got the 50% off of that price match.
I ended up with 3 bags of treats for about $4
Yup it has an adjustable opening. It comes in different sizes too. The blue one pictured there is for smaller dogs (I use it for my 22 pound JRT) you can get 2/3 cup of food in it.
Slow feeder ball
Feed them their meals separately - someone eats in a closed bedroom/bathroom/kennel/etc - twice a day.
There is another option (more expensive) - this feeder only allows the cat that it is programmed to to eat from it. You would program it to the underweight cat, so they can access the food freely but the overweight one cannot.
Have the vet calculate the underweight cat's daily caloric needs, which will help you with getting him back to his normal weight.
Works up to 130lbs. You could use it clipped into a collar, but I would definitely recommend with a harness.
If you're carrying people and a dog, this goes over the headrest, and is long enough for the dog to have some space.
It doesnt seem like you clip in your dog, but since we do, I bought: https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Adjustable-Vehicle-Seatbelt-Harness/dp/B014W40TSW/
Im not sure if it works on the 3 yet, my delivery is for next wednesday.
I also bought this mat so that our dog doesnt scratch up the seats. I didnt want to have to get seat covers and this is easily foldable and can be thrown in the trunk
Amazon also sells some dog breed DNA test kits! If you want to know for sure, I'd recommend grabbing one of them.
If you have about $75, you can get a pupper DNA test! Yes, a bit pricey, but so, so, so worth it. I've gotten two for my BF's dogs (Christmas and birthday presents) and we were completely blown away by the results with one- she was nothing we thought she was, and pleasantly surprised by another- he was far more purebred than we thought he'd be. (Not that that matters, it was just surprising.) It's also great to know if there is anything like German Shepherd or other large breed that has hip or back problems, so you can keep an eye out for those in particular.
Thank you for rescuing this beautiful pupper.
If you really want to know what breed(s) she is, the best thing to do would be to run a DNA test. Vets can only guess at the breed. Knowing the breed is also helpful in identifying possible hereditary diseases.
Also, considering her temperament and your lack of experience with pets, I highly recommend signing up for some training courses. Unwanted behaviors in dogs can get out of control quickly, especially if one does not know how to counter those behaviors correctly. It is a small investment up front that will greatly benefit the dog and your family in the long run.
Best of luck!
To Boomer: Grrr Woof Aroo!
this is the go-to plate https://www.amazon.com/RepRap-Champion-Carriage-Duplicator-Monoprice/dp/B01MUAMRN7/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500183237&sr=8-1&keywords=y+carriage+plate+i3
do you have a mofset installed?
We have a very similar situation. After lots of experimenting, we finally settled on:.
Use a cat calorie calculator online to look up the recommended calories for a cat 1-2 pounds less than him. Then figure out how much canned food, kibble and treats he gets each day to add up to that. Once he's almost at that target weight, look up the calorie level for a pound less and adjust the food accordingly. Repeat until you reach his ideal weight.
Don't just calculate calories for his ideal weight starting now - too rapid of weight loss is harmful to them.
Also, add in some vigorous play time, preferably before each meal since that mimics the natural cat life of hunt-eat--groom-sleep. The exercise will help him get in shape and burn off calories. He may be able to go less than a minute initially, but you should be able to build up. I highly recommend [Da Bird] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001BOVEU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KKmnDb31BNCKA). It's far better than other wand toys; I've never met a cat who wasn't excited by it.
My vet recommended this website for food questions. It's pretty ghetto design but it should give you all the info to figure out how much food he should be eating and what kind. It's nutrition so you'll have to take your time reading it because dem calories aren't the only consideration. That will solve the question about volume of food he should have. Obviously check with you vet about whatever plan you develop first. To give some perspective my female bengal is a month younger and ~2.7kgs, your male has another ~2kg to go till he's at the average ~5.5kgs and males are typically bigger then females. You do not want to starve a kitten either, you can address the weight when he's fully grown and you will notice if he begins to become a total chonker. Keep in mind he could just be a much larger cat then his parents.
You can give the second cat an RFID enabled bowl so only the female can eat from it. No sense in the second cat developing food anxiety as well. Here's an example, but honestly feed free to find one that suits your budget/needs
The lack of activity for a bengal is weird but not unheard of. I'd bring that up with the vet. For now enjoy the quiet, my female is full of turbo charged jelly beans at all hours. I have to run her up and down the hallway daily, and if I'm home take several play breaks to help her wear down.
First, thank you for putting all the info about the cats!
Watch Jackson Galaxy's My Cat From Hell videos if you haven't watched them already.
In the video both have their tails up so they seem confident. Have they had a chance to sniff each others butt? Sometimes it creates an awkward relationship if they can't get a good sniff of them.
We have 2 that will lay within a foot of each other and eat next to one another one minute and then stalk each other 5 minutes later.
This is what we use to keep cats on their own food.
SureFlap -Sure Petcare - SureFeed - Microchip Pet Feeder - Automatic Pet Feeder Makes Meal Times Stress-Free, Suitable for Both Wet and Dry Food https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O0UIPTY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SdlQDbTD3AFK0
Just buy one of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O0UIPTY/ref
That what we had to do, microchip sensor, skinny kitty eats at own pace when it wants without fear of chonk eating all the food. Chonk has to eat food when it's put in only his bowl.
Have these, work great https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B014W40TSW/
We use these and Ruffwear harnesses. One end clips into the seat belt thing and the other attaches to the back of the harness. They're cheap and work great.
We did this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EHX2BH0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8.bxDb0MC3T2Q with our rescue puppy and found out he was 50% gsd, 25% staffy, and 25% mixed terrier breeds. We were able to use that information with training. Hope this helps!
Could be lots of things, though my first guess would be a beagle shepherd or hound shepherd of some kind. You can get a Wisdom Panel done though to find out for sure. They're on sale this week for around $50.
We used this:
Mars Veterinary Wisdom Panel 3.0 Breed Identification DNA Test Kit
Try this.
Definitely looks like there's pit bull, past that I'm not sure. She's a real cutie!
As a heads up, if you're really curious, you could get one of those DNA tests done with a swab. Wisdom Panel is a popular one, and people like to share the results over at /r/doggydna. :)
He came from a rescue. All I know is that his mother was a chihuahua mix. I’m sorry I can’t be more help!
You can get a DNA test kit on Amazon, though!
Also on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUAMRN7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0qlgAb9BE509W
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
upgraded carriage plate, should be one of the first things you do, the stock one is flimsy and prone to warping, making the print bed extremely hard to level reliably.
https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Hotend-SLOTTED-Cooling-Wanhao/dp/B01E1HANLS/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497736485&sr=8-1-fkmr3&keywords=i3+plus+all+metal+hotend
all metal hotend will enable you to print at much higher temp, and increase reliability of the print head. not strictly needed, but a great upgrade if you want to print abs, petg, or other higher temp filaments.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HCVJ3K2/ref=sxr_rr_xsim_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3008523062&pd_rd_wg=sUxZ5&pf_rd_r=W5Q7RV181EJYGTBW4YDJ&pf_rd_s=desktop-rhs-carousels&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B01HCVJ3K2&pd_rd_w=ZPXZq&pf_rd_i=tri+gorilla&pd_rd_r=F2X8G4XDPCVTNXX6J560&ie=UTF8&qid=1497736655&sr=1
heater bed mosfet upgrade. again, not strictly needed, but also useful for high temp filaments like abs, as you can run the heated bed at higher temps. also solves (small possibility, i3 plus supposedly fixed issue) of stock mosfet burning out and catching fire.
https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=i3+plus+cooler&sa=&dwh=295945a7ab3d0cd
print a cooling fan shroud, i use the ciiicooler, the diiicooler is great as well. preferably in abs. BIG quality improvement, the stock fan is useless.
these are some of the ones i use, and there's a lot of other things you can do, extruder gear, improved bearings, too many to count really, just a matter of how far you want to go for incremental gains. the carriage plate and the cooling fan shroud are the only strictly necessary ones though.
oh and i made my own version of this z-brace, don't have the files anymore unfortunately, but this one is fine:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1653631
that's also something you should do asap.
My dog went through some really basic obedience classes when he was a pup, and I think it was really helpful that we put a lot of work into getting him used to walking next to us while on his leash. Honestly, he took right to the bike lead; I took him around town slowly the first few times, and that was about it. I think he knows that the bike = running, so he cooperates. Honestly the most difficult part is when he's over-excited and tries to herd my bike by nipping at my front tire.
As far as the leads, in my judgement it's best to have a lead that attaches to a mid to low section of your bike. My bike is pretty tall so I went with the Petego Spring Lead Universal Bicycle Leash and attached it to the lower section of my seat tube (below the top tube); whereas my wife went with the Walky Dog which she attaches to the rear axle of her bike. I will say that the Walky Dog is kind of nice because you can pop the lead right off the bike and use it like a leash, though if you're running two dogs the Petgo attachment has two attachment points.
Sorry that's not a lot of info, but if you have any specific questions I'd be happy to answer.
I do a lot of biking with my dogs. They run in front pulling, but next to you works too- it depends on what you want, and what the dog is more comfortable doing.
I bike with all my dogs and we have run across all sorts of stuff they want to chase and I have yet to have an issue. Here is the attachment I use. I also put my dogs on our treadmill. I think you need to go a bit slower. I took everything slowly and followed the advice here.
Hey! Started doing the same w our girl too. After 6-7 rides I’ve started using a harness + this guy (Walky Dog Plus Hands Free Dog... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003OYIAW4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)
After a few rides I’ve become a fan
I have this bike attachment for riding with my dog and I love it.
My dog is pretty good on leash, so getting him to do it on a bike was pretty easy. I did it in the following steps:
I don't know, it's very possible I under thought it, but it really worked pretty easily for me. No accidents so far.
A couple of tips I've found:
You should not pull your dog! If you start to notice it's a little harder to go, it's because he's lagging. Slow down, or let him stop. You can really get your dog up to a "sprint" on your bike, which my dog loves, but he just doesn't last very long. When I'm going fast, he can only got about 3 miles (when I started, it was about 1.5 miles). Make sure you bring water, a bowl and poop bags.
We just got a WalkyDog Plus that we're training our dog to use.
The pole attaches to your bike seat so you're free to safely keep both hands on the bike, and it keeps the dog at a distance so it can't get in front of or behind the bike. It does require training to get the dog used to moving with the bike, but so far we like it.
Even just snail pacing around an empty parking structure is more than enough to exhaust her for now. The added bonus is she's learning that paying attention to where we're steering is crucial to her safety.
The only downside so far is that if she pulls a certain way and doesn't match pace with the bike's speed, she can move the seat post attachment. But that's why we're slowly training her to keep pace with the bike.
My boyfriend used to get his boxer mix to pull him on a longboard when he was a kid to exercise his dog and it was great fun!
Biking can definitely be a bit safer if you use a specialized biking attachment like this to make it harder for the dog to topple you over.
With any pulling sport it's a good idea to get basic directional and stop commands in (especially if you don't have brakes like on a bike). We plan on doing pulling sports with our next dog and are shopping around for good harnesses to make sure he stays safe.
Hell ya! Do it all the time!
Of course, this really depends on lots of things. Do you have a safe area (not too much traffic)? How stable are you in riding? How big and strong is the dog and how much do they pull?
I used to take my dog biking all the time (hold the leash in one hand and the handlebar in the other hand). He got old and couldn't run much, so I got a cargo bike and took him everywhere:
https://youtu.be/zEY7LmnY23E
Ollie passed away and we got another dog. She is a puppy and hates the cargo bike. She wants to run! She is now 2 years old and weighs 50 lbs (black lab mix). I now take her with my e-bike. Leash in one hand, the bike handle bar in the other hand. The e-bike is awesome because it has good acceleration. Sometimes she just zooms all of a sudden and I can keep up without tugging on the leash.
But I'm a strong rider. I can keep her in control while riding 20+ miles per hour on short bursts.
My girlfriend is not a strong bike rider. So we got her one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Walky-Dog-Exerciser-strength-Paracord/dp/B003OYIAW4
This ties to my girlfriend's bicycle seat post. It stretches out and holds the dog. She takes our dog for rides with this apparatus. Works pretty good! She gets to keep both hands on the handlebars.
We got a WalkyDog and it works great:
http://www.amazon.com/WalkyDog-Bicycle-Exerciser-Leash-Hands/dp/B003OYIAW4
Keeps the center of gravity low so that they can't affect the bike travel as easily. It's just long enough to keep them away from moving bits but has enough play for some side to side.
Our huskies love them. Half the time I can just sit back and they will do most of the work :) Once they get into a run the are fairly oblivious to anything not directly in front of them. Had a rabbit jump out to the side once and I started prepping for trouble but we just ran right past.
How is your GSD with bicycles? You can train your dog to run alongside a bike with an attachment like this. Its easier on you and your husband than running for several miles but can be great exercise for you and your pup.
Our dog Suki was actually really bike reactive and we were able to get her to the point where even she can run along with the bike, so even if your dog is startled by bikes its possible to train them to be cool with running along with one.
A little bit of both. But mostly bike trails with light traffic. We sometimes jog off leash at a park thats dead empty in the morning, hell keep with me, but sometimes jog ahead maybe ten fifteen feet and look back at me, if i stop or slow hell come back to me. Also if i call he comes right away, but i havent tried to keep him at heel. Hes 0% aggressive and has no prey drive. We see squirrels all the time and he doesnt care. I would take him off leash but im worried about being rude by doing so, or be seen as non courteous to other riders. I was looking into something like this possibly? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003OYIAW4/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=A6UA4NC1RXBMR&psc=1
The best decision we made was to get a dog nail grinder.
I just had a hard time with clipping nails, and being afraid of clipping to close. The grinder, just like with clipping, takes some patience and training with rewards, but I can grind a whole paw of nails very quickly, and not have to work very hard at it. Plus, if you do correctly the nails are then smooth and not jagged.
This is the one I use at my salon. It's durable and long lasting. Safe to use on puppies 2 months and older.
Dremel 7300-PT 4.8V Pet Nail Grooming Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AqwNBbFX8K8ZA
I bet he would chase a flirt pole.
I've got a high energy lab mix too, and as many people have said here, walking just doesn't cut it. Several people have recommended fetch, which has been a huge help. Additionally, this thing has been a lifesaver. Basically, anything that gets him running hard and will help you drain his excess energy quickly.
Have you tried a flirt pole for him to chase?
Also, what kind of training have you tried? He's only a puppy, so I'd hate for you to write him off as "dim" when really he just might not be...properly motivated. Check out Kikopup's puppy training videos and start clicker training to get him thinking, which should help tire him out (and training is always good).
Additionally, maybe look into an interactive feeder for another mental challenge. I use the Kong Wobbler to feed my dog her meals, and I think that might be the best thing I've purchased for her yet.
Edited to add: Hide and seek is also a great indoor game to get your pup moving and thinking. You can hide yourself and have him find you, or I just hide little treats around for my dog to sniff you. I can really tell her gears are turning and she's actually working when she plays this game! I'd also look into what kind of group training classes are in your area and talk to local trainers--he's definitely not to young to do basic obedience, and from there he may be able to start with classes like agility or flyball which will really wear out an active adult dog.
I don't think I've been "formally" introduced to you lovely people even though I've seen some of your contests going on here before ;)
For gift one: Either [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Neff-Womens-Cupcake-Beanie-Velvet/dp/B005HSWZNK/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=39B8AKCSDRT5J&coliid=I1UFRCZ07903KE&psc=1) or [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Ticket-Stub-Diary-Eric-Epstein/dp/1452114226/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=1NPR8WP3XYH58&coliid=IXBG9Y68EXA72) both I've been wanting for a long time because I saw that hat on a little girl at the school I used to work for and have been obsessed but can't find it anywhere, and I collect tickets from everything I go to... so having a way to organize them would be awesome!
For gift 2: Also decently under $20 is [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Kyjen-Tail-Teaser-Dog-Refill/dp/B0042I5G2I/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=2IR97ZBE8XCJR&coliid=I27I9XMHLTKH2U) which I would absolutely love because I just moved (again) and need to spend more time with my pups!
So c'mon...gimme something good! :b
(I don't know you, but I love you, you wonderful and beautiful people, you!)
Looks like you have a good list going, remember to update your pups microchip with your address and get him/her a tag with your details.
We got a 36 inch crate and it's plenty big for our boy (he's around 30 pounds).
Puppia harness is a great starter harness, it's soft and doesn't have a bunch of metal jingling pieces which our puppy HATED on his harness our breeder gave us.
Kibble, check out dog food advisor for reviews and ratings of foods content, we were using grain free salmon and sweet potato from chicken soup for the soul, it's decently priced and well rated I can't find it anywhere atm so we're switching him back to their normal kibble.
Salmon Oil is a lifesaver in the winter, our pup gets terribly dry skin and extremely itchy without it.
Start out with a puppy kong, they sell kong fillers that are cheese and peanut butter flavored, our puppy was pretty picky at first and only ate the cheese one, didn't like frozen kongs either.
I'd start with a Basic Collar here's a Dog Tag Silencer and a Break-away collar for outdoors or dog park. A dog was choked unconscious at our park so I typically just keep our guys ID tags on his harness and don't use a collar, but if you do I definitely recommend a break-away if you are primarily using a harness with it.
Items we found useful: Bed Liner, Crate Fence, Kong, Stainless Steel Bowls (highly reccomend US made do not buy any made in China for health reasons), Zippy Paws Hide and Seek toys, Potty/accident cleaner, Potty Bells, Anti-chew Bitter Apple spray, 50 ft Leash, Retractable Leash, Soft stop Leash extender, Car Seat Belt, Car Booster Seat, Gentle Shampoo, Comb, Travel Water Bottle, Flirt Pole, Special Treats, Chew Stick, Greenies
Sorry for the HUGE list lol, feel free to ask any questions!
Oh and if your dog likes Kongs, these are great:
http://www.amazon.com/KONG-Wubba-Large-Colors-Vary/dp/B000MD57ZI
And they do squeak. Annoyingly so. I mostly use it when playing fetch, because I can't stand the squeak indoors. No stuffing.
And flirt poles are also great for supervised play and getting puppy energy out... I can't recommend them enough. They do rattle as well as squeak. Not super "tough", but thought it deserved a mention.
http://www.amazon.com/Kyjen-Tail-Teaser-Replacement-Squeaker/dp/B0042I5G2I/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1413941779&sr=1-2&keywords=flirt+pole
I’d be interested to see if he was actually being “aggressive” or if he was just playing. As stated earlier pits have extremely high pain tolerances. (But they do in fact feel pain). I have bruises and one pretty gnarly scar from playing with mine who is about 80 lbs. Mostly, it happens when we go out to play fetch. He gets over worked and extremely excited and starts to come at me instead of the toy.
My suggestion: shut it down quickly. Simply grab the collar and get him to sit down, and don’t let him move until he is calmed down. The more you push, hit and kick, the harder he is going to try to bring you down, because that is how pits play, by trying to pin each other. Hitting your dog is never the answer.
Get or make a flirt pole , as it creates a greater distance between you the dog and the toy, which will help keep his attention focused on the toy and not on you.
> she won't take treats outside or when she is scared so I don't know how to make it work?
If she won't take treats, it means she's already too afraid for counter conditioning. If you open the door so she can just see outside, but remain inside, does she react this way? Maybe you could start there first.
Also, if you're struggling with exercise you might have better luck with a flirt pole. If you can take her somewhere secluded and just keep her on a harness and longline, you could play that for ~15-30 minutes. Even high energy dogs tend to get worn down pretty fast because of the fast paced chasing and turning.
Also, you say she's pretty smart. How often is she getting training sessions every day? Do you give her puzzle toys? Mental stimulation can really reduce a dog's energy.
Engage them outdoors. Even check out a Flirt Pole!
They require more stimulation.
Sometimes you can also productively offer them an outlet to that energy that digging burns. For us, we take our dog to the beach where he can go dig into the sand until his heart desires. That's stopped him from digging out the backyard.
A puppy's first fear period is 8-11 weeks. Welcome to your dog's second fear period. It could pass quickly or it could last until he's a year or 14 months.
The first thing to remember is not to push him. You are correct for not dragging or carrying him. It's important that he learn coping strategies. For the next week or so while you teach him the basics of coping with fear, is there a "safe" area you can exercise him without pushing him past threshold? Do you have a yard you could use to exercise him with a flirt pole?
What you need to do is teach him how to be brave. The two best things you can do are to (a) teach him to touch stationary objects with his nose, and (b) teach him the engage-disengage game.
(A) At home, teach him how to touch objects with his nose on command. Here is a little bit about teaching a nose-palm touch, which is very useful. I extended this skill further and taught my perpetually worried pup to walk up to objects I point to and touch them with his nose. I taught him using basically the same technique as you'd use to teach a hand target behavior.
Start with non-scary objects, and move your way up to things that might be a little scarier inside (a newly opened umbrella gets a lot of dogs).
Then start practicing this in your yard, first with safe objects and then with scarier things. Then move to a walk 100' past your house on either side. Pick random objects to ask him to touch his nose to, and lavish food and praise when he touches them.
(B) Teach him the engage-disengage game. It's a "game" that will teach him to look to you for guidance when he is frightened. When he looks to you, stand confidently and offer him praise and food.
You should see pretty fast progress once he starts figuring out the game. Just make sure not to push him too hard - if he's struggling, always remember to make what you're doing easier and/or less scary.
I know the feeling about walk lengths. I live in WA and we have been having basically flood weather this whole fall/winter and its hard to want to do the full walk with my dogs when it is monsooning every morning. I actually still need to get a rain jacket for one of the dogs because he has a soft coat and doesn't repel water like it should. But doing some morning training sessions will help out a lot.
Also have I told you about the amazing flirt pole?? It is my shibas favorite toy. It exhausts her and is a lifesaver in crappy weather.
You can easily make one, but I'm lazy. SquishyFace makes a really good one.
I bought this exact flirt pole for my dog recently and I highly recommend it. It's sturdy enough for my 60 pound mutt so I'm sure it'd be fine for you.
Tollers are great. I have a Toller and a Newf, and while the Newf is far more loving and an all around better "people dog", I love my Toller for all her quirks.
Like /u/Phog91 said, Long trails and wide open fields combined with a Chuckit is the best thing you can do. The Newf strolls along with me while the Toller loses her mind running around, fetching.
Hi - I have a Belgian Shepherd myself (Sheepdog variety, aka Groenendael). She is five now and much calmer than she was as a puppy, but as a pup, we were in the dog park twice a day (morning and night) for about 30-60 minutes each time, usually playing fetch (or she was herding other dogs).
You have a few options here other than just giving the dog up, but they will require you to commit time and some money to this.
First, wake up early and go to the dog park. I have something called the chuck it that I used all the time when my Belgian was a puppy. This toy let me avoid picking up disgusting tennis balls by hand while also throwing the toy way further than I typically could. Your dad working 9-5 is like my work schedule - I would wake up at like 6:30, take her to the park, come home around 7:15 and then feed her and get ready for work. She was used to be kenneled from about 8-12 when I would come home over lunch to let her out (I lived 5 minutes from my office). It wasn't much of a break, but it split up the day a bit for her. I would go back to work and leave her with a frozen kong toy that would mentally keep her occupied while I was gone. When I came home, I let her out, changed clothes, and off to the park again.
Also, have you considered doggy daycare or a dog walker? Days I knew would be long in the office, I couldn't get home, or had an event in the evening - she would go to daycare. It was about $25 a day but she basically was running and playing with other dogs for 9 hours. Great socialization and she was exhausted. Dog walker prices vary by area - I would check with some local rescue groups and see who they recommend (they should know the reputable walkers in the area).
Finally, the pup needs training. Either go to PetCo or PetSmart to get started with basic obedience and then graduate to other classes. My little girl was in advance obedience at 6 months old - she was on track for agility training when she was full grown (recommended as to not hurt her growing joints) but we moved and an agility facility was unfortunately nowhere near by. However, that said, I still kept up her training and daily dog park trips.
If you aren't willing to dedicate the time and energy to the breed, you're going to have a hell of a time. They're great dogs but you have to put the time in to working them out, physically and mentally. If you can't, see if the breeder will take the pup back (most will if they're good) and if not, contact the Belgian Shepherd rescue group - they probably have a foster system of some sort setup. Other local rescues may be able to help as well, just make sure they are foster based or have a private facility - don't just give the dog to animal control or the town shelter.
No problem!
Tiring out dogs can be a real pain. Thankfully I have 2 that play well together... One that has a never ending drive to retrieve, and one that loves to be chased. I throw the ball for the one that wants to be chased, and they run in big circles around me for 30 minutes non-stop, then we go inside and they pass out on the cold tile floor in the bathroom! It's fantastic. Haha.
The best advice I can give you is to use high value rewards. One of mine loves fetch just for the sake of fetch. The other wants a food reward. We had to initially get him interested by "trading" a ball for a small slice of hot dog. Once he understood that, we'd toss the ball 2-3 ft away, and he'd bring it back for more hot dog. Then we slowly moved to 10 ft, 20 ft, then full tosses. Once he gets the hang of it, you can phase the hot dog out (1 piece every other retrieve, then every third, then every fifth) until he's really just playing fetch because they like it.
My other big point of advice would be to get a Chuck It Launcher and a pack of Ultra Balls. The launcher makes it way easier to throw for a long time, as you don't have to bend over to pick the balls up, your hands don't get nasty, and the balls go farther. And the ultra balls are great because they are a near-indestructible rubber rather than the tennis ball that comes with the launcher (and they float!).
My girl absolutely loves her treat ball. Keeps her busy for hours as she chases it. She loves to try and stick her big snoot in the hole to get the treats out (she never can get them out that way, but that doesn't stop her from trying lol). I'd say it's probably a really good toy for a dog not too interested in toys because you get the added bonus of treats and it keeps their mind busy. Here is the link to where I bought mine.
I got a feeder ball and it was cheap and has held up amazingly. My dog LOVES it and I'm ordering more.
Amazon link $10
Just a light cotton sheet or tablecloth will do for covering. If you can find it in a dark color, that would be great, but just not being able to see around her will help.
Sitting before you open the door is totally fine. Creating a routine is a great way to get her to love the crate, the more treats involved the better!
This is the treat ball I use which works great as long as your dog isn't much of a destroyer. Holds a fair amount of food. If you're not sure about the food bowl just putting in a large object or smaller upside down bowl inside the food dish can help in the meanwhile.
Outside as a family is great, I was just thinking of those time when you're worried about her peeing but would like to give her some time outside her crate unsupervised. I'm not too familiar with heat+breathing issues so you might consult your vet just to see what they recommend based on your climate and your pup.
I'm glad I could help! I just totally know how it is to feel frustrated with your dog. I'm glad she's peeing indoors less! May also just be her getting used to her new home :)
Best of luck!
Edit! Oh I forgot about the ear cleaning. Cheese whiz! Or similar consistency stuff, peanut butter works too but isn't as convenient. Smear a long thin line of it on the floor (or other easily wipeable surface). Like, a foot of it. You can even space it out a bit. While she's busy licking, you can mess with her ears. Picked this trick up from my vet and it works awesomely.
My dog (also big, about 110lbs) also sometimes eats REALLY fast... I know about bloat (I used to have greyhounds and according to my vet at the time the breed is particularly susceptible to it) so I'm pretty careful about feeding him. No exercise immediately before or after feeding. I very unthinkingly took my dog for a run once immediately after feeding him a big raw meal, and the poor guy threw up everything he'd eaten halfway through the run and was just miserable all the way home. (He'd also managed to drink some pretty foul ditchwater before I dragged him away, and something in the raw meal might've disagreed with him... I'm back to high-quality kibble because raw feeding was just way too involved for me.) That put the fear of the baby Jesus into me and I've been REALLY careful about his feeding ever since.
One thing I like to do when my dog is REALLY excited about dinner and I can tell he's about to wolf it down is put his food in a treat ball. I'm not really a fan of the traditional buster cube but I got one of these Omega balls and it's worked out great. Might not so much if your dog is a chewer; mine isn't, so he hasn't destroyed any of these, but just in case I do make sure he only has the ball when I'm there to supervise him. The last thing I need is surgery to remove pieces of a treat ball from his gut. :D But my dog LOVES that thing. It ensures that he only gets his kibble a few pieces at a time, and he has a grand old time pushing the thing around with his nose, then spends hours back-tracking and sniffing all over the room to make sure he didn't miss any bits of kibble. It's totally awesome.
I have this treat ball as well as a similar one that is weighted at the bottom. They're good because my dog has to interact with them to get the treats, and it's completely random, so she can't figure out the puzzle and do it the same way every time. I have a Kong and similar toys that can be filled with food as well. I like to freeze peanut butter or pumpkin in them so they take a little more work. I'll usually rotate out the toys through the week so they don't get bored.
My dog has good luck with this treat ball:
http://www.amazon.com/Omega-Paw-Tricky-Treat-Large/dp/B0002DK26M
However, when she used this one, she got similarly frustrated, and would even angrily pounce at it.
http://www.amazon.com/StarMark-Everlasting-Ball-Medium-Large/dp/B003YHB8DO/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1427208454&sr=1-2&keywords=treat+dispensing+chew+ball
The second ball had these little rubber pegs that stopped the treats from easily falling out, so I cut one of the pegs off, and now her kibble falls out more easily. She likes it more and doesn't get mad at it. =)
I showed my dog how they fell out, pointing to the hole and then holding it upside down. I did that enough that now I see Luna trying to hold hers different angles with her head so the hole points down. She's a smart pup!
We used this:
https://www.amazon.ca/Omega-Paw-Tricky-Treat-Orange/dp/B0002DK26M?th=1&psc=1&source=googleshopping&locale=en-CA&tag=googcana-20&ref=pd_sl_z3sgvu8cr_e
Really helps slow her down... Although now every orange ball she nudges with her nose hoping kibble will fall out.
Does he have a Kong already? Puzzle treat toys like that are almost always a hit - I have a Kong and a branch toy like this you can put kibble in. I also think the Hide-A-Squirrel game is adorable. Those, a rope bone for tug, a flirt pole, a frisbee, and a grunting pig comprise Tess's favorite toys.
https://www.amazon.com/Outward-Hound-Squirrel-Interactive-Puzzle/dp/B0002I0O60
My dog loves this thing. Got it from a family member after we adopted my dog and figured he would just destroy it. It looks like a cat toy. Boy were we wrong. Used it as a training tool to teach him "give" (or "drop it"), as he would fetch each squirrel and bring it to us. They're apparently scented and that's why dogs love them so much.
We have a toy log with holes in it and little squirrels with squeakers you put in and the pug has to try and pull them out.
Amazon Link
I prefer the halter style collars for dogs that like to pull. It goes around their neck and nose and makes it very easy to control their heads.
The only downside is that to some people they look like muzzles and that can scare some people at the park.
I think I have a Gentle Leader at home. Initially my dog hated it and tried to paw it off. Eventually she associated it with going for walks and now she gets very excited when I pull it out. Also note that a halter will still allow your dog to eat/drink/bark/etc while they are wearing it.
Tons of trainers I speak to recommend the harness. It's a great product! My dog has a barking problem along with a pulling problem (although she isn't nearly as rambunctious as your pup on the leash!) so I got the Premier Gentle Leader (http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Gentle-Leader-Headcollar-Large/dp/B00074L4W2). Like a harness, it doesn't hurt my dog and what it does is it closes my dog's mouth when I give a gentle tug and the metal ring is located on the side, so it pulls my dog's head towards me, stopping her from pulling with no force necessary. Figured I'd share for those whose dogs don't receive harnesses well and may also have barking problems!
I've never used OPs harness. Our problem pooch uses the Gentle Leader which works wonders since it controls her head (and is thus uncomfortable to pull). The Easy Walk worked for her until she learned to manipulate it, but is still a great tool for our non-problem pooches, and is probably less easily manipulated when walking one.
Ours is a Gentle Leader Head Collar/Halter.
Thanks for the kind words! Super happy with the results so far, turned an absolute wiggleworm of a puppy into a beast that is much, much, more manageable.
Has no one ever heard of a head collar? Best $20 you can spend if you have medium to large dog that pulls on a leash.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00074L4W2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JAd0Bb5JE6THC.
On sale for $10 on Amazon right now.
My dog doesn't love his harness (but isn't as scared as your guy) and our trainer suggested we teach him the "Get dressed" command. I see you are essentially doing this, but maybe upgrade what kind of treats you are using? Also try to work on this when you don't have to leave the house, like in the middle of the day. This will mean you can practice when you're less rushed. I just searched for it and this looks like an OK video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aOsv5xE0KUM
Have you thought about using a Gentle Leader instead? You'll have to be very careful about how you expose your dog to it, but maybe the lack of pressure on his sides will help. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00074L4W2
I haven't used that sort of collar previously. I will say I tried a Gentle Leader with my 90lb pit/rottie mix and it was amazing. She pulled pretty bad, and I was having a lot of difficulty training her. With the Gentle Leader it was like night and day. As soon as it went on, she stopped pulling. It is definitely worth the $15.
Here's my dog: http://imgur.com/a/6AowK
Here's the Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Gentle-Leader-Collar-Training/dp/B00074L4W2/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1501972494&sr=1-3&keywords=gentle+leader
I might be able to help you here. Having a husky cross, she would pull like CRAZY on the lease. It's bred into her, and I reinforce it when I hook her up to a harness and pull me on skis/rollerblades. So I've tried a bunch of things. It became especially important since I've moved from the great wide open of New Hampshire, to the cramped crappiness of Boston... I highly recommend the Gentle Leader here ... I used it for a couple years (I bet your dog will get the point in a couple weeks), and now I don't need to use it anymore. Sometimes if she is in desperate need of a walk and starts pulling, I will hold her lease right by where it connects to her collar and keep her walking right by my side, calmly, and focused on me rather than everything else around her.
I also heard the stopping when she pulls trick, and I know it works for some dogs, but it absolutely didn't work for mine even after a ton of persistence.
Hey thanks for that dog cake recipe btw! I am definitely going to try that!
It's a gentle leader! It isn't a muzzle, he has full movement of his mouth. When he pulls, it gently pulls his head to the side, preventing him from pulling harder. Here: http://www.amazon.com/Premier-Pet-Products-Gentle-Leader-Headcollar-Large/dp/B00074L4W2
Have you tried using a gentle leader? Makes walking my beag so much easier. She hates it, but it taught her to walk nicely on the leash and now I just use a regular harness.
She's only 8 months old and you are definitely right about several things - she destroys stuff (shoes, couch, anything she can find on the floor) on a regular basis and it can be very frustrating. But she's also sweet, loving, friendly with people and other dogs, and amusingly derpy. Overall, I don't think she is THAT much worse than other puppies. Exercise helps a ton.
please tell me you arnt using one of those retractable leashes. Get a no pull head harness like either of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00074L4W2
https://www.amazon.com/Comfort-Trainer-Halter-Black-Strap/dp/B009ECY3QC
I assume the old collar broke because he/she always pulls on walks? Try getting a gentle leader leash. It takes away their leverage, doesn't result in them choking themselves and ultimately keeps them from always being at the end of the leash. I have them for my two pits and they work wonders.
I have two active dogs. Without their gentle leaders they are the worst. As soon as you put them on. They are fantastic dogs on walks/runs.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00074L4W2/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480889987&sr=1
We used a method called "Make Like A Tree" when training my GSD to walk nicely on a leash. Your dog is definitely not too old for it.
Start at your door like you're about to go for a walk. Hold the leash low enough so that it gets taut as soon as her shoulder passes your thigh. She should not have very much room to go in front of you at all before she is pulling. As soon as you open the door, she's probably going to try to walk out in front of you, right? So stand your ground, hold her leash in that position and don't move. Let her pull and tug and lunge out the door and completely ignore her. Have a treat on hand so that as soon as she realizes her efforts are futile and turns her attention back to you, you can reward her. Lure her back to your side with a treat (this may need to be a really high-value treat if she's a serious puller). As soon as she's sitting by your side in a heel position take one step out the door. If she immediately lunges ahead of you, just freeze and wait until she turns her attention towards you again. If it's taking her a long time to focus on you, you can try making funny noises, whistling, and saying her name to try and shorten the time that she isn't listening. Repeat the same thing as before, luring her back to your side and take another step. Keep doing this, just in your front yard. I've found that it helps to set a timer on my phone and keep it in my back pocket. I tend to get frustrated with my pup when he doesn't listen (don't we all?) so I set a timer for 15 minutes. After that, we go inside for a little while and try again later. You being frustrated is going to cause you to expect more of the dog and be rougher on the leash, both of which will just cause her training to go slower. This is a pretty lengthy process that requires a lot of patience, but it's so worth it in the end.
Once she understands the concept of staying by your side in front of your house, start going around the neighborhood or down the street. When she's by your side continually praise her in a happy, cheery voice. I've found it helpful to teach my boy "Watch me!" so that whenever I give him the command, he will look up at me. This is great for when I see another person or dog approaching him and know he is going to want to pull. I say watch me ahead of time and continually feed him treats until we are past the distraction. If your dog does pull, just do the same thing as the beginning- freeze and hold your ground until she's back in the heel position.
I would recommend getting a martingale collar for your pup, or a front-latching harness. The martingale collar will tighten a little when the dog pulls, which I have found to help them understand why you are stopping. It's also better for their neck, as it distributes the weight of their pulling across the entire circumference of the neck, instead of right on their trachea. The added bonus is that it self-tightens, so she can't slip out of it if she starts throwing her head around in frustration. Don't confuse this with a choke chain or prong collar or anything. The martingale can only tighten a little bit, and it's usually made out of heavier fabric, so it will loosen as soon as your pup stops pulling. The front-latching harness is really helpful because it will turn your dog to face you whenever he pulls, but cinching across his shoulders and not letting him walk any further. This is great, because you'll want to lure him into a heel position every time he gets ahead of you on the leash and what better way to do that then have him already face you! It's also useful if your pup is an especially strong puller. The harness will stop her motion as soon as the leash is taut, so it's much easier for you to control her if she's really strong. I had a ton of success with the front-latching harness and my pup. Hope this helps!
We love our Easy Walk harness. It really helped our pitty stop pulling on walks, since the D ring clip is in the front and not between the shoulders. Its tough and adjustable.
My trainer recommends the easy walk harness. I used it for my dog. Works great to prevent pulling. https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Harness-Large-BLACK-SILVER/dp/B0009ZBKG4
I think OP is talking about the Easy Walk Harness.
It sounds to me like you're talking about a retractable leash. In that case, I totally agree with you. I just don't think that was what this post was about.
I had the same issue with my lab retriever. I tried using the Halti collar and harness and we couldn't walk more than 5 feet without Chester trying to pull it off his face. I know you said you tried harnesses and so did I and I found this one works best for us. As soon as I put it on he stopped pulling.
Try an easy lead! They're the kind where the leash attached in the front (but still a harness, not a collar). It makes walking stubborn shibes so much easier
PetSafe Easy Walk Harness, Large, BLACK/SILVER for Dogs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009ZBKG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_c3SBzb7TC7FWY
Sure! It's made by ruffwear and it has a locking carabiner on the end. Our girly learned how to unclip her normal leash with her mouth and would take off running. The metal bit twists up so that the latch can't open anymore, unless of course it's twisted back down.
Ruffwear - Knot-a-Leash, Reflective Dog Leash with Secure Locking Carabiner, Blue Spring, Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R1UZLBA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DNw7yb2CZ0HWP
The harness she's wearing is an easy walker, which her leash clips to in the front of her chest, so it keeps her from pulling on the leash too much.
PetSafe Easy Walk Harness, Large, BLACK/SILVER for Dogs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009ZBKG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nTw7yb261F6HY
Hope this helps!
I think I can help you with that. I have a big obstinate doggo too, and he's stronger than I am. He was a real pain in the butt on leash until only recently (he calmed down a bit when he turned two). I tried a bunch of leash/harness combinations and finally had success with the Rok strap and Easy Walk. What I like about the Rok leash is that it has two handles, one at the end and another right by where it clips to the dog.
This is useful for three reasons: (1) if doggo isn't cooperating, you can use the closer handle and have a lot more control over him. He will naturally need to stay right by your side, because he doesn't have room to roam. If he's behaving himself, you can let the leash out to give him more freedom. (2) He can't get enough momentum to hurt you. On a traditional leash, the dog will run and YANK on you when he reaches the end of the leash. If you're using the closer handle, he can't run as far. Less momentum = less force on you. (3) The leash is made with rubber, which means he will have to work a LOT harder to pull on the leash. More work = less reward.
Here's a photo of my dog on this harness + leash combo.
I hope that helps!
Looks like it might be the Easy Walk harness. It's designed to be clipped in front of the legs, so when they pull, it tightens around their front legs and turns them towards you.
Used to have the same harness for my Hound/Bully mix and it worked well for him. It had no effect on our female, who pulls like a damn truck (we switched to using the gentle leader for her).
Get an easy walk harness by premier. It will resolve that. My wife who barely tops 5' can walk ours with out problem.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/PREMIER-Easy-Walk-Harness-LARGE/dp/B0009ZBKG4/ref=tag_stp_s2_edpp_url/278-9582196-0140445
Along with what everyone else has said, I would recommend this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C9YHFS/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_s_awd_d_YawFxb1PW070M
It's a stuffed animal that has a fake heart inside which vibrates like a heart beat. My puppy loved this! It gave her a little "friend" to snuggle with in her crate. It even comes with a hand warmer you can shove inside too, to simulate a warm puppy to snuggle with. That and treats, a toy, anything to make it a happy place! Try to feed meals in the crate too. Start with the door open, as the pup goes inside further and is more comfortable you can shut the door and let him out when he's finished eating.
8 weeks is very young, so being separated completely from the litter can be very trying for a pup. They make plushes that have a "heartbeat" (simulated w/ a battery-operated pack) that may ease that kind of anxiety: https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Pet-Love-Snuggle-Behavioral/dp/B000C9YHFS
I personally have not used it and I think YMMV, but it may be worth checking out.
I agree with that- and it may sound a little 'over the top' but they make [[https://www.amazon.com/SmartPetLove-Snuggle-Puppy-Behavioral-Brown/dp/B000C9YHFS\]](https://www.amazon.com/SmartPetLove-Snuggle-Puppy-Behavioral-Brown/dp/B000C9YHFS](https://www.amazon.com/SmartPetLove-Snuggle-Puppy-Behavioral-Brown/dp/B000C9YHFS)">stuffed) stuffed animals (dogs) that have a 'heart beat'. When I worked at a shelter, we used these when puppies were brought in alone or had to be separated. Could be a good idea to purchase one and set up for the puppy when you need to leave (showering, going to work, etc.).
I would also add a shirt that smells like you to the crate, and a heartbeat dog toy like this one http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Pet-Love-Snuggle-Behavioral/dp/B000C9YHFS/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1449847346&sr=1-1&keywords=heartbeat+dog+toy
He is used to sleeping in a warm pile of other puppies, and misses it.
That might be the problem. You're with her all day every day and then leaving her completely alone at night time. It sounds like you aren't able to set her up in your room with you, it might be worth trying heart beat stuffies (Puppy Snuggle Behaviour Aid) or to make a similar set up yourself using a ticking wall clock and setting a blanket and stuffy over so it simulates the steady heart beat.
I would suggest that you definitely keep up the crate training. Are you putting treats in his crate when he goes in? Sometimes it's best to associate the crate with these types of positive reinforcements so he is more inclined to think the crate is a great place. If he has separation anxiety, I heard this heartbeat toy works quite well for young puppies.
My other suggestion is, the meantime, while you are crate training him, why don't you get one of these playpens if you have to leave him in the kitchen. That way he is at least away from the walls and in an enclosed space. If he starts to chew the playpen, you could spray it with this bitter spray which really helped my dog when he was teething.
Good luck!!
This literally saved us our first week. Now our puppy doesn't need the heartbeat but still LOVES to snuggle up to it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C9YHFS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I found the dog whistle apps aren't nearly loud enough to get their attention from any distance. So I bought this: http://www.amazon.com/Dazer-II-Ultrasonic-Deterrent-20-Feet/dp/B000IBRI2Y
Worked great. I don't even need it anymore, after several months of consistent use. I would point it out my upstairs window at the neighbor's dogs when they got loud, and give them a brief correction. Usually it takes 2-3 corrections because they will start barking again, but they get the message.
Now they only bark at the HOA's gardening crew. I've been unable to get them to stop doing that and have given up trying, but they no longer bark most other times.
*edit: Link
A Dog Dazer is an ultrasonic emitting device, and it works well. I take it on my walks, along with a walking stick, and I've used it against a few aggressive dogs and they usually stop, look at you, and if you make a loud noise or look threatening, they hi-tail it back to their place.
This is what you do: Dog Dazer
This - but it works better on bigger dogs. It's not foolproof, but better than a knife (?!)
A good friend would never let their dog violate your body without permission. If their dog did it accidentally, a good friend would pull their dog away and apologize. If any dog jumps and slobbers on you, you can spray its face with Pet Corrector from Petco, which is compressed air that makes a loud hissing sound at https://www.reddit.com/r/Dogfree/comments/8lxbes/why_would_you_bring_your_aggressive_dog_to_work/dzk1j1q/. Another solution is an ultrasonic dog deterrent such as https://www.amazon.com/Dog-Dazer-II-Ultrasonic-Deterrent/dp/B000IBRI2Y. It produces a discomforting but not harmful high frequency sound audible to dogs, but not to humans. The problem with the fanatical dog culture is nondog people are too passive and let themselves be abused. Even parents are more respectful because I've never seen parents glorifying their children lunging at strangers, slobbering on them, and scratching them. If a kid tries doing that, their parents promptly pull them away in embarrassment, chastise the kid, and apologize to the stranger. But dogs doing it is not only acceptable in western society, but it's fanatically worshiped AND we're expected to adore it. However, I'm very direct with my anger towards dog fanatics. I tell them, "I do NOT give a FUCK that your dog likes me." Nondog people have every right to refuse to be so violated by dogs and their shitty owners. Fighting back is how we can prevent the toxic dog culture from growing. How would your friend like it if you jumped all over him and slobbered on him? He probably would not appreciate it, even if it was your way of showing affection. Therefore, his damn dog should NOT do it either.
Dude, I dont want to paint you as totally disconnected, but that is what is going to end up happening . This:
> If any dog jumps and slobbers on you, you can spray its face with Pet >Corrector from Petco, which is compressed air that makes a loud hissing sound at >https://www.reddit.com/r/Dogfree/comments/8lxbes/why_would_you_bring_your_aggressive_dog_to_work/dzk1j1q/. Another solution is an >ultrasonic dog deterrent such as >https://www.amazon.com/Dog-Dazer-II-Ultrasonic-Deterrent/dp[/B000IBRI2Y. It produces a discomforting but not harmful high >frequency sound audible to dogs, but not to humans.
Dude, doing this would make me look like a huge asshole. I know they're wrong, but if having a cordial conversation doesnt get the issue resolved, then just "not going to his house" is the option I choose over this.
It's not right. But I prefer to keep friends over letting shit eating poodles destroy my relationships (and I know I AM NOT the one destroying it, but doggo fanatics will let that come between us)
I ended up with the most energetic and playful Newfie in the world, and she loves to chase the cats so I have some experience in this.
Obviously all of this requires training and conditioning, but it was very worth the time. You can also get baby gates with a little pet door on the bottom. If your pup is especially unruly and disregards boundaries, gates like that are great.
Going to be a bit long, bare with me.
Do not directly introduce the dog & cat at first. Keep them completely separated from each other. This will involve a bit of revolving animals, but in the long run it’ll be worth it. Crate the pup away from the cat and let the cat roam, sniff, etc. Hopefully the cat will “scent” some objects. After, say, an hour, crate cat away from dog. Let the dog sniff around. Do this process for 1 full week. During week 2 continue week 1 but add: rub your hands all over the cat’s face (where scent glands are) then immediately rub “scented” hands on dog’s face. This will force the dog to deal with the scent continuously. Do that for a week. Week 3 is week 2 plus “drive byes”. Dog on leash walks by crated cat until dog doesn’t show intense interest. After that you should be good. However it’s always best to have a safe space for the cat to go that the dog can’t. There are pet gates that don’t require any drilling that work wonders.
I hope that all makes sense. If you have other questions just ask.
Source: dog trainer for 10 years, own 2 pits, 1 Rottie, and 2 cats.
We have this for our laundry room where the litter box is (and will be getting more for the stairs) and we really like it! I'm not sure how well bigger boned cats will get through but ours is about 10lbs and he has no problem at all.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000JJDI0G/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have the same gate, it's marketed as a pet gate. I also use it to keep dog away from cat litter/food.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JJDI0G/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is the one I plan to get.. But it's just pressure mounted, not screwed to the wall.
I have a papillon mix and they are so much fun to train! I do agility with my pup, and you are going to love it. :)
You could do nosework at home, or teach different "practical" tricks (put your toys away into a basket, fetch a newspaper, close the door etc.).
We also play the "101 things to do with a box" game with clicker training. This one is particularly fun because the dog gets to offer random behaviors, and you never know what your pup might be capable of. With this game, we've inadvertently taught our dog "paw at that" and "get in the box".
Edit: I wanted to mention that one of the few drawbacks with having a smart, "gotta have a job to do" dog means that you need to be mindful of keeping them from getting bored. We feed our dog all of his meals using various food toys/puzzles and that will usually keep him occupied for a while.
It seems you've tried most toys.
Have you tried something like a tug-a-jug or other toys designed to keep a dog interested?
Poodle crosses are generally smart, almost too smart for their own good. They can get bored easily and need to be mentally engaged and stimulated.
To this end, you might also think about a toy you stuff food into, such as this or this. It will slow the feeding down, and also keep your dog entertained throughout the day.
the shelter i volunteer at gives kongs to all the dogs. i've never seen them tear one up. maybe i'll see an indentation on the kong, but i've never seen one break a piece off. seriously, hundreds of dogs, never an incident like you're describing. saint bernards, pit bulls, german shepherds, no kong incidents.
peanut butter alternatives: you can fill the kong with food mixed with peanut butter. sometimes i'll put rice and chicken in the food processor until it's a thick paste and fill the kong with that. or, you can make some "honest kitchen" wet dog food, put it in the kong, leave it in the fridge, and give it to her when you leave.
kong alternatives: i like busy buddies. I started with this one and moved up to this one (removed the rope) for my dog. This is where she gets all her food now. You can fill it with normal food if you're worried about the dog's weight. These are a little harder, so if the dog doesn't seem interested when you introduce them, you can fill them with really high value treats like hot dog pieces until she gets the hang of it.
you can give her the toys when you leave and take them away when you get home. Some people don't like to take the toy away when the dog is using it -- because it can lead to food guarding -- but that may be no big deal if you're only working on separation anxiety.
it sounds like the dog needs a lot of enrichment. in addition to toys, i would also check out clicker training. it's a good way to exercise the dog's mind and anyone can do it.
also, don't give them rawhide. bully stick instead.
more walks may help. take her down to the park and meet men. i don't have a fenced yard, either, so i got a 30ft leash so my dog can run around. i also run with the dog every now and then.
there's no magic bullet, but there are a lot of small things you can do. all this sounds like a big pain in the ass, but it's probably easier than cleaning up a bunch of trash when you get home.
also check out /r/dogtraining. there are people with actual qualifications there.
and if you decide to get professional help, check their qualifications. CeXXr MXXXn is like the Scientology of dog training. A lot of "trainers" and "behaviorists" will claim to be a "member" of a dog training association. That just means they go to conferences and pay dues. There are lots of CXXar MXXXns in disguise, like BXXk BXXXXXs. You want a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist or a Certified Pet Dog Trainer or a Certified Animal Behavior Consultant.
EDIT: Formatting
My border collie pup really enjoys this. I make him work for his dinner and breakfast. It has helped loads in turning down his destructive behaviors.
Try getting him some toys that will keep him occupied while you're gone as well as crate training! He is bored, has separation anxiety, or both and would benefit greatly from crate training and toys to keep him occupied. We feed solely out of "puzzle treat dispensers", the Starmark Bob a lot being Lucy's favorite, and give her a bully stick to chew on as well. Most people seem to use filled frozen kongs since it will hold the attention of the dog longer. Another thing that would help would be to exercise more before you leave.
Address the problem of destructive behavior now before it gets worse and it will solve a lot of heartache for you and your pup!
I am thinking of getting one too! Found them on Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/StarMark-Bob-Lot-Interactive-Large/dp/B001JQLNB4)
One of my favorite things to buy myself some time is what we affectionally call Bob (or the bob-a-lot by StarMark). I had my eye on one of these when I first brought my puppy home and didn't buy it for awhile but when I did it revolutionized my life. This keeps my pup busy and entertained forever. We will give her some food in the bowl for meal times but we put aside a lot of the daily food to be fed out through this. Our pup is incredibly food motivated but sometimes is super selective about what she'll chew.
First of all, thanks for saving those babies! I've never actually raised a piglet, but I know there's an underage pig Facebook page and they're very helpful. I do think piglets can start eating very milked down pellets pretty young, but, again, they would be your best resource.
When your pigs start getting older--please find a vet and get them fixed. I cannot tell overemphasize how important this step is, so I'll just leave it there. When they're old enough to get fixed, GET THEM FIXED!!
I would also recommend harness training them early on, since my 4 year old thinks his harness is the devil and won't go near one for all the cheerios in the world. Ditto car riding. Give them lots of praise (and, more importantly, treats) so they want to wear their harnesses/go places.
As far as toys go, our pig is super lazy, but he loves this for indoors and he has one of these for the yard. Either of those can keep him occupied for an hour at a time, though you might need to check in on them from time to time to make sure their ball hasn't gotten stuck or they haven't knocked anything else. (I once got out of the shower to find my entire living room rearranged because of the path the ball had taken...)
Good luck! Your pigs are lucky to have you!
As long as you tire her out every day you will not be disappointed! Welcome to the club.
It took me a few months of pushing myself to get more comfortable trusting our adult adopted ACD (adopted in Feb this year) but after I realized he's not going to take off sprinting when he's off his leash, the bond really solidified.
They are very smart and have a lot of personality. I've only been able to find one toy that mine wont destroy within a half an hour.
Above all other advice make sure you get pet insurance (I think we have healthy paws). Within a couple of months we had to have a few teeth extracted from ours before we enrolled. $700. They are hearty pure breeds, but they're still pure breeds and have genetic issues sometimes, or they just play hard and tear their ACLs often (my vet recommended fetch with a ball rather than a frisbee).
I also highly recommend agility training. My ACD loves it and can do a full hour before getting brain drain. I've been tempted to try taking him to a dog friendly sheep ranch but I don't want to unlock his heeling instincts, I'm fortunate to have an ACD that is more of a retriever than a nipper.
My less intelligent dog gets this [Starmark toy] (http://www.amazon.com/StarMark-Bob-A-Lot-Interactive-Pet-Large/dp/B001JQLNB4). I like it better than the Kong wobbler, it's much quieter.
The top end has been gnawed on a lot because I am not great about picking it up, but the toy is still more than functional, if a bit raggedy. He's not the brightest, but he's crafty and loves to dismantle things. You can adjust the difficulty if you like, which is nice.
The smarter one gets the [Kong satellite] (http://www.amazon.com/KONG-Satellite-Treat-Dispenser-Dogs/dp/B00BJZ5DMU/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1420219968&sr=1-1&keywords=kong+satellite).
It took him 3 months to destroy this one, but I bought a spare because I know him. It's a really difficult toy to solve. The hard plastic was worrisome at first, because his default solution for a new puzzle is to carry something to the top of the stairs and fling it down. He grabs the little satellites and flings this thing all over the house.
I tend to feed them in the morning with these and pick them up when they have gotten all of their food. Most of the hard plastic toys will be destroyed pretty quickly without supervision.
For a longer lasting puzzle toy to pacify them when we can't go out, I like softer toys. [This] (http://www.amazon.com/Cycle-Dog-Consumer-Recycled-Material/dp/B00FIWCJNQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1420220254&sr=1-1) one was a bit difficult but I accidentally got the big one, and they can't get their mouths around it to crush treats small enough to get out. We got [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Buddy-Squeak-Treat-Booya-Large/dp/B00MPE5FJU/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420220442&sr=8-2-fkmr2) in a bark box and they love it. I don't love it as much because of the squeak, but squeak > stir crazy dogs.
And when all else fails, a 2 L soda bottle with a small hole cut in it is awesome. It's too big to get a good grip on, especially if you cut 2 of them in half and duct tape the bottom halves together, so it lasts a long time. And if they tear it up, it's no big deal.
Don't forget ear pro for the dogs!
http://dogs.thefuntimesguide.com/2007/08/dog_earplugs_for_dogs.php
http://www.amazon.com/Mutt-Muffs-DDR337-Hearing-Protection/dp/B002CZQ1TA (Big foam plugs can work as well, depending on breed.)
For recall you can use a vibrating collar.
yes they do
Cantidad de Perros * (Dos de estos + Uno de estos) + Esto otro = Paz perpetua
De nada.
When I visit my mom, I feed the dog through this toy. I set up an exercise pen (so the ball doesn't get lost under furniture and the food stays contained), put the kibble in the ball, set the ball to the hardest setting, and then put the ball + dog in the pen together. The dog ends up pushing the ball around and around the pen. He eats and gets a mini work out. Even though I still have to walk him, it does burn a bit of energy. For my large dog at least, I end up refilling the ball about 4 times to feed him his meal. (He eats 3 small meals instead of 2 meals a day.) The point here is that the dog will be too tired to cause trouble. This is one idea for you.
You can also try using bitter spray on your belongings so that your dog doesn't try to bite things she shouldn't be biting.
However, my best idea for you is that you consider crate training the dog. It is safe for your home, but more importantly, it is safe for your dog so that she doesn't ingest anything potentially dangerous. It keeps her protected and in a safe place where you don't have to worry about her. You can give her a bigger crate if you're concerned she needs space. There are lots of resources out there that talk about it (r/puppy101 & r/Dogtraining) and while it may take time until your dog is fully crate trained, it 1) deals with the separation anxiety, 2) protects the furniture from being destroyed, 3) protects the dog from getting hurt while alone.
ACDs are quite the toy destroyers aren't they? Although my guy isn't quite as esteemed in the destruction field as an ACD, he is pretty bad. Here's what has survived him:
Reading my list, god damn my dog is spoiled. Keep in mind, these are just the toys that have made it. I'm not even counting the ones he's destroyed!
Let me know if you have any questions!
Lastly, I don't own a husky, but man do I respect the destruction a husky can wreck. I would recommend going to a husky group on facebook or a subreddit to see what toys they would recommend. If it's husky approved... it should last.
I got a 6 year old dog about 4 years ago. He spent the first 2+ years of his life in a cage alone, then a few years living with a family. He also didn't care for toys or playing with other dogs. He's started playing well with my puppy over the last few months, but before that he didn't play with anyone for more than maybe a 10 second game of chase in the yard.
For toys, I taught him "take it" to get him to pick up a toy. He'll humor me and take what I offer him, but very rarely does he actually play with a toy. He sometimes squeaks a toy a bit if he doesn't think I'm paying attention, but as soon as I notice he drops it and expects pets. He really only cares about bones and kongs.
His life isn't any less fun for him because he's not keen on toys. He's smart enough to know what toys are for, just not interested in spending his time squeaking something when he could be sleeping on the couch!
For yours, if he likes food and sometimes chases the ball, I'd probably try a puzzle toy that involves pushing the ball around to dispense treats. This particular one is big enough not to roll under my couch. He may get the idea to chase it if the treats are coming from the ball and not you. You can also throw out some kibbles into the yard and let him hunt them out.
Also, keep in mind that it could take weeks or even months for a new rescue to adjust to you and your home, especially if he's used to living on the streets or in a kennel at the shelter. I'm not sure how new he is to you, but you may find he comes out of his shell as time goes on and he sees you playing fetch with your other dogs.
Everyone so far has already recommended exercise, which I also recommend. Some people said mental exercise as well, which can wear her out and keep her busy. So, I'm throwing in food toys that make her work for her food (which I'm assuming you probably just pour kibble in a bowl) which can add some more exercise, both physical and mental. Kongs (which are actually not a personal favorite of mine) for when you leave are great. Freeze them and they are harder to get food from. I personally love IQ balls which are perfect spheres and make dogs more or less run around the house after the toy (my guys normally are panting after working to get all the food out). Here are some others since it is a good thing to switch it up and keep her thinking, not just use the same toy over and over (because that would be boring):
PetSafe Tug-A-Jug
PetSafe Egg thing
PetSafe Mushroom thing
Kong Satellite
Kong Wobbler
And in the event you are like "I'M POOR, I CANNOT AFFORD ALL OF THOSE." You can also get a 2 liter bottle and cut holes in it big enough for her to get food out of but not too easily. Also, the mushroom toy has pretty small holes so it isn't easy for bigger kibble (or dog treats), so you might forgo that one. Those are just the ones I own.
ALSO ALSO. PSA FOR EVERYONE. If you shop Amazon Smile (which is where those links take you) you can donate %.05 of all purchases to a charity of your choice. So you should definitely sign up, choose a charity and donate while you shop instead of just shopping. Nothing changes except you shop from Amazon Smile instead of Amazon.
Here's an example of a slow eat dog bowl that /u/ZorglubDK mentioned.
When they work the dog is forced to take much longer to eat their food instead of inhaling it all in big gulps. It also doubles as a sort of play time and brain game since the dog has to work to get the food.
Sometimes the dog is too smart for the bowl though. When that happens... I guess you could somehow secure the bowl to the floor.
The feeder balls mentioned work in much the same way. Put the food in the ball and the dog has to roll it around to get the food out.
Kongs are the simplest and its really easy to "level up". Start by just putting in dry kibble, then wet kibble, then freeze the wet kibble and seal up the big hole with yogurt or peanut butter. Then you can layer it so its frozen wet kibble, cheese, kibble, yogurt, kibble, peanut butter etc. It'll start taking longer and longer to get everything out. My pup loves the Kong Wobbler too! Not only does it tire him out, but it spreads out his meal so he doesn't eat it as fast. Same with the IQ ball. The puzzle board was great for awhile but then got too easy for him. Snuffle mats are pretty easy to DIY too if you don't want to fork over the money to buy a real one.
Sometimes Badger gets part of his food for the day in a treat ball (this one). It's great for his kibble, though noisy on the non-carpeted floor, and he loses it under furniture all the time so he doesn't have it unattended.
It's pretty feasible for him to eat a good portion of his food this way because he's only 12 lbs. and he eats about 3/4 cup of kibble a day. Most of the time we feed him at least one meal in his bowl. It takes two kibble balls to be about equivalent to one meal.
Yeah, most of those would get destroyed in minutes in our house.
Firstly, as I'm sure you know, plan to take her on a decent walk first. It's not always possible, but it helps with the process. Then there's a little wind-down time when we get back to the house.
Anyway, as for toys, your real question, I suggest one of these two:
http://www.amazon.com/StarMark-Bob---Lot-Interactive-Small/dp/B003YHB8EI/
http://www.amazon.com/OurPets-Smarter-Interactive-Inches-Colors/dp/B003ARUKTG/
We get some tiny little treats to pop in there and it has good success. Noodle still tries to play with it at my feet, but at least it keeps him occupied. But, as Aussies are velcro pups, he only plays with it in the same room that we're in.
The other thing that could help (if what you want to get done is in the same general area) is to keep treats in your pocket and continuing to reward for staying on her bed. So as you're working, toss a treat back. Maybe every 30 seconds at first and then lengthen the time. Our "Go to your bed" command is pretty rock solid at this point...but the staying part is certainly something that can be continuously worked on.
Good luck! And seriously, that Weazeball will die a horrible death in minutes. Don't waste your money.
Sure!
My partner built him something like this.
I also got him these two puzzles that I only give him when I'm home, just for safety reasons: this "level 2" one that he solved in 30 seconds and this "level 3" one that he hasn't quite gotten the opening drawer part down yet.
He also has this treat ball that he LOVES, but I don't recommend if you live in an apartment/condo with hard floors.
His favorite that he carries around and chucks down our stairs to open is this mushroom.
He also gets kongs with peanut butter in them.
Amazon gets a lot of my money. Lol.
I had a fatty that looked just like this. May I recommend one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ARUKTG
It worked wonders to get his weight down and teach him not to hork his meals down super fast.
Edit: actually, this is the one I used https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0018CE8LQ
Feed him with this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ARUKTG/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_8?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
Anyone have a dog you can borrow to come over and play with him while you work? Other dog friends are great for exhausting pups. Plus it's very good for socializing.
Just like with children, the excess of energy could be due to something more than lack of exercise. His little puppy brain might not be getting enough stimulation. He also may be wanting to chew/gnaw something. Give him the food ball, and a healthy dog bone chew.
Also, quick tip: make sure he has a dedicated space that is his own. A place like a den that is for happy feelings (give him treats in said place) and sleep; like a crate with a comfy bed. And NEVER feed your dog a meal and then overwork/ run him, it may cause BLOAT.
tl; dr : food ball, dog friend, dog chew.
We got ours a Bob-a-lot; she gets all her meals that way and loves it!
We have three not including Kongs! She gets bored easily lol.
This is my favorite one because it's really easy to change the difficulty and it's too big to get caught under the furniture.
You can change the difficulty on this one too by closing it more tightly but is pretty easy
And this is the easiest one out of the three we have but she still really likes it.
There are like hundreds more to choose from! Someone posted this and I'm probably going to pick a couple from there, too.
I would agree that settling into a routine seemed to help the most with our grey. It took about 3 months for her to settle and for the separation anxiety to fade. We also got her some puzzle toys that we give her only when we leave. She now knows that we give her a toy before we leave and we always come home. The best one I've found is this one but we also have this one and this one.
Bob-a-lot is one idea. http://www.amazon.com/StarMark-Bob---Lot-Interactive-Large/dp/B001JQLNB4
But I recommend that you practice his training for a few minutes every couple hours and then give him a toy to play with. The training will burn off mental energy and the release from training will make him eager for the toy.
We have the StarMark Bob-A-Lot and our puppy LOVES it - though it took him a while to figure it out.
I've read in a couple of places that using it for all meals is fantastic; I haven't tried doing that yet, we usually have our puppy eat all but one meal from the bowl.
StarMark Bob-A-Lot Interactive Pet Toy, Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JQLNB4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vzztyb0MZ25AN
I got this one from amazon. It's pretty big, so unless you have some really high couches it should be okay. It has little sliding doors to make the food easier/harder to get out too.
I haven't had it long though, so I can't vouch for durability or anything.
My dog gets her dinner in this. She loves it!!
It keeps her busy for a bit and helps get some of her her wiggles out at night. She does "protect" it from one cat, though. Any time Tobey comes in to the living room, she picks it up and sets it on her bed. Tobey has never shown any interest in the treat ball, but whatever.
Oh, Premier Pet makes a bunch of them - [on Amazon] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/search/ref=sr_nr_n_3?fst=as%3Aoff&rh=n%3A2619533011%2Cp_4%3APremier-Pet-Products%2Cn%3A%212619534011%2Cn%3A2975312011%2Cn%3A2975413011&bbn=2975312011&ie=UTF8&qid=1427303947&rnid=2975312011) but most pet stores carry a few of them too.
I use the Kibble Nibbler Ball for his meals, and other toys for some kibble throughout the day - he loves squirrel buddy, but I also have the waggle bone, large twist n'treat, the mushroom, and the barnacle. He figures them out fast, but it does slow his eating and make him think!
He also [loves this toy] (http://www.amazon.com/StarMark-Bob---Lot-Interactive-Large/dp/B001JQLNB4/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1427304091&sr=1-1&keywords=bob+a+lot), which is way better than the similar Kong Wobbler in that its slower to dispense and better balanced (he figured out how to get the wobbler to balance on its side and just dump the kibble out in on big pile!)
We have a beagle who is highly food motivated (doesn't play with toys unless food is involved) and the bob-a-lot is a great toy: http://www.amazon.com/StarMark-Bob-A-Lot-Interactive-Pet-Large/dp/B001JQLNB4 It is a bit heavier, and difficult to pick up with dog teeth, so probably less incline to be thrown.
I've had success with a Bob-a-Lot
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001JQLNB4/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Just put regular kibble in there and it can last a few hours
This is what I used to slow my dog down: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001JQLNB4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
He is really terrible about eating so fast he forgets to chew. Been using this for a year and have been slowly starting to phase it out as he's been doing a lot better. He got good at this toy but it still prevents him from getting more than a few pieces of kibble at a time.
You might get one of the treat dispensing balls like this one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001JQLNB4/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B001JQLNB4&linkCode=as2&tag=k9ofmine-20&linkId=I6W6RIYKDEMUWFI6
The dog really has to work at it, gives the brain a workout too, and that might divert her for one meal. And the antler is a good alternative because it takes awhile and gives teeth and tummy a workout too.
Kong is good. Get two: one to keep in the freezer and one to give to her. The frozen ones will take longer for her to get through. Put some peanut butter and treats in there and she'll be occupied for awhile.
I also have one of these things for my smart dog and it's great for her meals. I put her full serving of dry food in it and it takes her a good half hour to get everything out. It's also great because you can adjust the size of the release points to make it harder or easier for her.
We got our dog a set of http://www.amazon.com/Mutt-Muffs-DDR337-Hearing-Protection/dp/B002CZQ1TA Helps a lot in loud situations
[MUTR MUFFS] (http://www.amazon.com/Mutt-Muffs-DDR337-Hearing-Protection/dp/B002CZQ1TA)
These would fit better and stay.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002CZQ1TA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482465237&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dog+hearing+protection
This is Cosmo's most favorite food toy on the planet. He likes the mushroom but it doesn't dispense food quickly enough so he'd rather use it as a toy than for a meal. I ended up removing the divider since he's a puppy and just learning. We use it for every meal now. He absolutely loves it. Video: https://www.instagram.com/p/BHXbJhUjGzG
Our lab puppy was very destructive in the beginning as well. No matter how tired we tried to make her, dogs are resilient she has never ending energy. So if we weren't able to tire her out, we had to keep her interested in something.
I found some dog treat puzzles on amazon, like this one. It did help but definitely not 100%....
https://www.amazon.com/OurPets-Treat-Ball-Interactive-Dispensing/dp/B003ARUKTG/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1510695642&sr=8-5&keywords=dog+treat+puzzles
We also installed cameras, where we could talk through them to the dogs, so if I would see her start to get into something I could call her name. it distracted her for the most part, not all the time though...
You just have to keep thinking of ways to keep them engaged in something other than your stuff! Anything you could set up and control remotely in the puppy room would help
You should definitely try the videoing and catching him
We got our lil buddy a month ago, tried to immediately get him into crate training but failed pretty miserably when he spent the day howling his lungs out - much to our sublet neighbors' shagrin. We work 8 hours a day and there's no way we can pay for doggy daycare. He'd been a rescue from the Hurricane in Texas and we had no information about him at all. His foster mom claimed that he whined for about 10 minutes in his crate and then was fine, but this was either vastly different than our experience or was a lie.
Though we first thought it was separation anxiety, I began to suspect it was just isolation distress. We had just moved into our new place and so we had basically a spare room that wasn't yet furnished, and we decided to give him the whole room while we were away at work. We also taught him to look forward to his Kong and his IQ ball every morning. Within two weeks he was happy to get his treats in the morning, and as long as we kept our schedule the same he would quietly do his thing then go and sleep on this awesome bed that we bought for him, being quiet the whole time!
So onto crate training him, we've got his bed that he loves so much in his crate at night, and he sleeps there nicely. We started closing the door a week ago or so at night and he has no problem with that! He gets in there when we get it ready and lays down very well and stuff. So now in the day we've started locking him in his crate with his nice bed and, just like before, he is laying down and sleeping normally in it! I put his Kong in there with him before I leave and he's repeating the behavior that he'd learned this last month of playing for a while and sleeping. I'm also coming home about 5 hours later to take him for a walk in the afternoon and then re-crating him.
So, so far it's been about consistency, introducing new scary things to him slowly and in little bits, and getting his mind off of being alone right when we leave the house.
We alternate between the Kong Wobbler, the Buster Cube, and the IQ Ball every morning for breakfast. The wobbler is definitely the easiest, the cube is definitely the hardest, and the IQ ball is Sequoia's favorite (but she loves balls of any kind, so no real surprise there).
The total surprise winner was the Pickle! I was convinced it would be torn to shreds in minutes, but it has held up well! It doesn't last super long, but it is easy enough to just stick a little more peanut butter and some more kibble in when she is done.
I got two of these toys for my Pom and Papillon, and our Pap loves it. They have to roll the ball around to get the food into the clear top chamber, and then keep rolling it to get it to fall out. You can adjust the size of the hole in the middle layer to change the difficulty as they get more used to using it. There are other variations of similar toys, but that's the one I've tried and can review. The three inch one is more than big enough for a Pom.
We just throw a handful of kibble in there and it keeps our Papillon busy for an hour. Unfortunately my Pom is afraid of it (she doesn't like the noise, and the Papillon bangs his around into furniture and stuff), but I'd still recommend it unless your pup is as big of a scaredy cat as mine is.
She can solve the tug a jug?? I can't reliably get stuff out of that thing.
Have you tried a buster cube or one of these ball things ? They aren't super complex, but you can control how fast the food comes out by changing the size of the holes. It's more persistence oriented, but that might help them last longer.
If he's decently food motivated, there are toys where the dog has to work to get the food out. Some examples-
IQ Ball
Starmark Bob a Lot
Magic Mushroom
Nina Ottosson has a line of puzzle toys. (These are more on the expensive side though, but there's a range of difficulty)
These are just a few off the top of my head... If you do a search for puzzle toys, there should be other posts with more suggestions.
If you leave the rawhides out all the time, he might just be bored or just used to them, so they're no longer a treat. If he has access to them at any time, there's nothing really special about them anymore which maybe why he ignores them.
There are many different kinds of toys and puzzles that will keep him occupied when you aren't at home. Just choose something centered around your dog's motivation, whether it be treats, toys, or something else and don't forget to play with him yourself!
On a different note, I used to have a dog who started chewing when he was a puppy. I made it absolutely clear to him that I was VERY unhappy when he chewed through my headphone cord, then gave him a length of denim from the scrap box and said, "This is for you." Ever since then, he'll only chew things you give to him explicitly.
This one - https://www.amazon.com/Our-Pets-Interactive-Dispensing-ASSORTED/dp/B003ARUKTG/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=iq%2Bball&qid=1564528762&s=gateway&sr=8-1&th=1
I have the blue 4 inch. I got it at Marshalls for $4
I use this puzzle ball filled with kibble for my 13-week old mini, crank it to it most difficult setting and toss it out on the lawn. First he has to roll it around to even get kibble pieces out of it, and then he has to find them in the grass. Takes him a solid half-hour for a handful of kibble :)
I'm sure you know this already, but it can't be said too often--consistency is KEY for dogs. You (and your family) have to be more stubborn than she is, every time. Whenever anyone gives in, she learns that her behavior is effective and acceptable.
Before bringing more food into the mix (as this may just excite her more), try to ignore her/push her away at every meal for at least 2 weeks and see if there's any improvement in her behavior at that point. Our new dog (picked him up mid-January, just turned 2) was all about it when we were eating, but he has already stopped bothering us at meal times (took about 1 week for the worst of the behavior to stop, 2 weeks for him to actually completely leave us alone). Best of luck!!
P.S.: My last thought would be maybe to give her something to entertain her while you are eating (something like this ). We haven't tried this, but if the barking/jumping is really unbearable, this might be a way to encourage her to ignore you while you eat.
My wiggle loves this and this
Also, frozen Kong’s are great.
I understand the worry. Something warm might help loosen the muscle. Ask the vet if there are any exercises you can do with him that can help with stiffness.
I like food balls for helping with joints. As he noses it around he is moving his head side to side, he it making atypical steps but without the energy of chasing a ball. Not to mention it helps prevent overeating.
I will warn you away from the ones you cannot take apart. They end up nasty with food stuck in them. Something like this is good: https://www.amazon.com/Our-Pets-Interactive-Dispensing-ASSORTED/dp/B003ARUKTG
Yes, I like the thick rubber ones with holes in them, which I stuff with treats and peanut butter. My dog will then paw and throw it around in order to get the treats out, and he'll be occupied for hours licking it. Kind of like this and this though we don't have those exact ones, but you get the idea.
My dog also loves this guy but you'd need extra small training treats for it so it can fall through the small hole. Also it's hard plastic and my floors are tile, so it makes a huge racket when he tosses it around.. no big deal when I'm out of the house though.
Good luck!
I have one of these and while my dog will occasionally try to chew/lick it when she gets frustrated, it's made of smooth hard plastic so she's not actually able to destroy it or get a good grip on it. I wouldn't use it if you have hardwood floors, though - I assume if it was dropped on a hard floor, it might eventually break.
Snuffle Matt with an IQ Ball is my genius invention I haven’t seen anywhere else.
https://www.amazon.com/Wooly-Snuffle-Mat-Encourages-Foraging/dp/B01N1FV55I/ref=asc_df_B01N1FV55I/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198071232162&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3592997858012089969&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031939&hvtargid=pla-349638453770&psc=1
You hide kibble under the felt and it triggers the dogs instincts for digging through grass. It takes our 14 week old about 20 minutes to sniff it all out and holds a 1/3 cup easily.
https://www.amazon.com/Our-Pets-Treat-Interactive-Dispensing/dp/B003ARUKTG/ref=asc_df_B003ARUKTG/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198111066934&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10592075457433977437&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031939&hvtargid=pla-355229308255&psc=1
She pushes the IQ ball around to get kibble out and they fall in to the snuffle matt, forcing her to find them again.
Lots of kibble and easily a 30 minute effort that she naps after.
(1) we have used all of the above. Standard collar holds tags the best, our training class provided a choke collar and we find it easiest for walks, and when he was still very small (8 weeks came home, so for about our first month or so) had him in the harness before we started training.
(2) we have all 3 - the retractable is new and I haven't used it yet, but we got it for beach trips so he can roam, then we started with a nylon and got a leather one from the class. We now use the leather mostly... just because its nice on the human paws :)
(3) We started with a 36" crate, at basically full grown he's fitting in pretty tightly, but still fits. We also ended up adding an ex-pen. If I was buying the crate now, I'd go up a size or two so he'd have some more space. I also highly recommend the pen if you have room.
(4) We've gone through a lot of beds... he's chewed them to bits... so might as well start off simple and cheap. He put a hole in the nice one we got recently within an hour.
(5) When he first came home, his favorites were the rope toys and unstuffed animals with squeekeres. Don't get things with stuffing!! They will try to eat it, and that makes for a lot of supervision needed. Now that he's a little older, he also loves balls, particularly [with teeth]
(https://smile.amazon.com/Coevals-Club-Interactive-Non-Toxic-Cleaning/dp/B01LARUD6M/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1493386356&sr=8-17&keywords=treat+ball+for+dog)
& [brain activity] (https://smile.amazon.com/OurPets-Treat-Ball-Interactive-Dispensing/dp/B003ARUKTG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1493386356&sr=8-3&keywords=treat+ball+for+dog)
(6) Foods:
(7) We did a local class. For socializing, we've made sure to introduce him to people from day one - and dogs since he was fully vaxxed unless we know the dog.
(8) Biggest challenge - he has chewed up window sills, door frames, etc when home alone. We originally thought it was OK to leave him in an empty room with just his toys etc bc we had an empty bedroom. He ruined the listed items of the room. Hence, adding the ex-pen. Happiest moments - it's like when people talk about their partners and babies... its the little moments, like when they snuggle up which you don't expect because its rare for the breed, or when they accomplish something - like being house broken, or a command (sit, etc).
(9) we're lucky... he loves both dogs and people. Archer is an attention whore, and the more praise and play the better. This can vary by individual dog, like individual human.
(10) The only thing I wish I could change is how long my commute it, and how late I get in. My husband is able to spend more time with the puppy than me which is just my own jealousy. Also... we use a dog walker 1-2 times a day (we're moving down to 1 now that he holds his bladder/bowels longer). The mid-day visit is SO important, if you can't take lunch at home... you need to have him with someone - a dog walker, a pet daycare. He cannot be alone for that long.
Also... know he's a smart breed. He's not like a lab or a collie who will live to please you. You live to serve him (or her! I have a boy, so I keep using him) which means that you have to learn about his idiosyncracies. Because he is smart, but easily bored... you will need to figure out what kind of attention and stimulation keeps your shibe baby happy. Is it mental stimulation and logic puzzles? They make more than the tops I shared... so start looking. Also, just play hide and seek. Does his hunter instinct kick in? Sometimes, when he's feeling extra frisky instead of feeding him in a bowl, I'll toss his kibble and treats into the toy, or literally around the room so he can "hunt" for dinner. Is he feeling neglected? Bored? he's going to cause trouble...so how can you make sure he knows you love him. Think of him like April Ludgate in Parks & Rec, or a cat. He wants to know he can have your attention when he wants it - but he will not just snuggle because you want to... or pay attention to you if it doesn't meet his interests or needs. You'll fall in love (hopefully) and won't care, but the shiba will rule the fam not vice versa so get ready for it.
Not sure if this is the same one that Scout got, but this one is great for my dog. He usually destroys most toys, but this one is hard plastic and it barely fits in his mouth, so he can't really chomp down on it. I think maybe he also does not want to destroy the toy that feeds him. ;)
The Kong Wobbler is also good if you need a treat/food dispenser that doesn't travel quite as much or as quickly. It's also harder to get stuck under the couch or tv stand, etc. My dog hasn't tried to destroy it - once he gets all the food out, it's dead to him.
When my dog is super antsy, I'll put half of his dinner in one of these. Then he spends the next half hour chasing it around the house to get his food out of it, and by the time he's done, he's tuckered out. I also make sure he has lots of toys and bones and hoofs to chew on so he has something to do so he's not bored.
I found the ones I used on amazon.
OurPets IQ Treat Ball Interactive Food Dispensing Dog Toy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ARUKTG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OE47AbH4PAY32
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ARUKTG/ :D
My dachshund, Doobie, is a little terror when it comes to toys. I've found two that hold up pretty well overall.
First, this is Doobie's absolute favorite toy but it never lasts longer than a few hours if I just leave it with him. So I'll only give it to him for play and take it away later to make it last longer. I only mention this one because he loves it so much. It does have stuffing in it, so beware of that. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EB9IV2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This toy is better because it has several squeakers, and it lasts a lot longer. It also has no stuffing to clean up. Though they will still destroy them. But I use this one to play catch (since you can throw it like a frisbee) and tug of war (Since it's easier for you and the dog to hold) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BT8K7J6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is the toy that I let him have all the time. It took him a year to destroy the first one. I don't know if it's because it's really that tough or because he's getting older. But I think it's worth a try. It's also really funny watching him carry this thing around the house since it's twice as long as he is. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003RQNE7U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And the last, honorable mention: My dachshund LOVES this, and it's perfect if you are too busy and they really want to play or the weather is bad so they can't go out or get walked. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ARUKTG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
We use one of these for ball throwing. Can easily launch up to 60m.
https://www.amazon.com/Chuckit-Classic-Launcher-Colors-Vary/dp/B00006IX59
This is a Chuckit!
You will not be unprotected on your initial climb in if you use a line launcher or something similar on one side to put a line over the cross of your roof to the other. You then tie the rope in to a fixed point on the other side (like a tree or car) using a sling.
I used a kong ball with a hole in it (https://www.amazon.com/KONG-Ball-Dog-Medium-Large/dp/B0002DHOJA) and tied a thin 100 lb test nylon rope to it then launched it across with a dog ball launcher (https://www.amazon.com/Chuckit-Classic-Launcher-Colors-Vary/dp/B00006IX59). Once the small nylon rope was across the roof, I then tied it to a 100 foot 5/8" rope (https://www.amazon.com/Guardian-Fall-Protection-01360-VL58-100/dp/B004EEPTDG) and pulled it back across the roof so I could safely tie in.
It adds a few minutes to the time to get on the roof but it is worth it as you will have very low risk of falling because you will always be tied in.
I also use fall protection whenever I need to get up on a ladder on my 2nd story home. I have several different anchors that I can hang ropes from depending upon where I need to work.
You should also always be tied in moving anchor to anchor, something like this comes in really handy if you need to move across a larger roof: http://www.fallprotectionpros.com/guardian-big-boss-dual-leg-lanyard.html
This is a great video for finding rafters when you nail the fall protection in:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OIMEMffezwI
All in all you would need to buy:
When I did this on my home I:
If your shingles are older this job will be tougher. Old shingles tend to tear instead of lifting.
Just wanted to add another suggestion for leaving good marks, as no-one seems to have mentioned it yet... a regular ol' wooden spoon tends to leave quite prominent, and long-lasting, circular welts. And for a slightly different variation, a Chuckit (ball launcher - http://www.amazon.ca/Chuckit-Classic-Launcher-Colors-Vary/dp/B00006IX59) works super well too ;) The long, springy handle makes it fun to wield.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00006IX59?cache=b70fcc0ef9df54f5daac849831c2c0e8&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1405882789&sr=8-2#ref=mp_s_a_1_2 this is a great start for non-rainy days! I have an indomitable pitbull, this works wonders on tiring her out!
Finn plays with most of his toys on a big area rug. He knows to pick it up and take it back to the rug when it rolls off. I taught him by picking up his toys and taking them back to the rug every time they fell off. He eventually got the picture.
Even so, our favorite toys are soft rubber ones. The Omega Paw Tricky Treat ball is great, and so is the Orbee Tuff Snoop. To make the Snoop harder, you can buy another ball to put inside it.
Recently they've also had tricky treat balls which are GREAT and QUIET!
Not exactly a toy, but sometimes for meals I hide little piles of kibble around and let her sniff them out. Behind table legs, inside an old shoe she plays with, inside a box. She loves it.
She also likes her kong.
She loved the omega paw tricky treat ball when she had it ( http://www.amazon.com/Omega-Paw-Tricky-Treat-Large/dp/B0002DK26M ) but recently we left it outside and a lizard moved into it, so we need a new one. It's not hard, but it was definitely a favorite.
We made a toy (I'll try to post a picture later) that's a Gatorade bottle with a rod through it. We set it up so the rod is horizontal and she paws at the bottle, makes it spin on the rod, and gets fed.
Also, a toilet paper/paper towel roll with the ends taped up is super fun to shred.
She just got what's basically a generic pickle pocket and she hasn't quite figured it out yet, but if I put something nice and smelly in there it keeps her distracted for a while.
I have a papillion chihuahua mix who just turned 2. If it were up to him I would play fetch all day long. When I need him to keep busy independently, I have a couple things I try:
Bully sticks. Sometimes he's into it, sometimes not. Depends on the day. Some days he'll chew on a bully stick for over an hour.
Puzzle toys like these:
http://www.amazon.com/Outward-Hound-41008-Flapper-Training/dp/B006ZTTSOE/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1463561315&sr=8-16&keywords=dog+puzzle
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004NSVIRY/ref=twister_B009NMOZKM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/Omega-Paw-Tricky-Treat-Large/dp/B0002DK26M/ref=sr_1_25?ie=UTF8&qid=1463561410&sr=8-25&keywords=dog+puzzle
I also rotate his toys, he loves digging through and discovering the "new" toys.
Other times I put him in his crate. This is usually when he's had exercise and play time, but is not calming down any time soon. It's funny because it takes about 5 minutes before he's fast asleep in his crate!
My pup was just like yours-loves sticks and anything made of wood! Unfortunately, I don't have too many suggestions for the wood replacement. I gave my pup a few of these when he was little, but after reading the Amazon reviews I would possibly reconsider that decision. He enjoyed them, however, and you can do some research and make your own decision!
As far as a puzzle game I highly suggest the Omega Paw Ball. My almost 1-year-old pup recently figured it out and has been loving it. The Kong Wubba is also good, but with my pup I noticed that the Omega Ball requires a bit more finesse and concentration, rather than the Wubba which mostly sent him into frenzied batting episodes.
Hope some of this was helpful!
The Kong Wobbler and Bobs-a-lot are great toys. I also use a Tricky Treat ball a lot. My dogs also really love the Snoop.
You could also try the Tug-a-Jug, Kibble Nibble, or Buster Cube.
Tuffy makes some good stuff. We have a number of them. I just picked up the large sheep, it's almost as big as she is. Great for tug. She will chew the ears off. But in 14 months she's only got through 1. There's bones, bully sticks, balls etc to distract her also.
These are the favorites:
http://www.tuffietoys.com/
https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Buddy-Twist-Treat-Small/dp/B0002I0RLW
https://www.amazon.com/Omega-Paw-Tricky-Treat-Large/dp/B0002DK26M
He's eating too fast, probably. Couple of options:
(https://smile.amazon.com/Omega-Paw-Tricky-Treat-Large/dp/B0002DK26M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1494942493&sr=8-2&keywords=dog+food+ball)
We have this one which is AWESOME:
http://www.amazon.com/Omega-Paw-Tricky-Treat-Large/dp/B0002DK26M/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1419201598&sr=1-1&keywords=roll+treat+ball
Use it for breakfast and dinner on rainy days when he doesn't get in his usual hike. Takes about... 8 minutes? But he has a lot of fun with it!
I have this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Omega-Paw-Tricky-Treat-Large/dp/B0002DK26M
It's soft plastic so it can handle being knocked around a bit - which is good, as Lucy has figured out the most efficient way to get treats out of it is to knock it down the stairs again and again. I think a hard plastic model would be smashed to smithereens by now.
It doesn't open up so it's hard to clean, I fill/drain it with water a bunch of times to try to get as much food residue out as I can, then pour boiling water into it every now and then to sterilize what's left.
It depends on the toy, and the dog. You do want to supervise them at first, to make sure that they won't just chew it to bits; most dogs are smart enough to figure it out after a little encouragement, but some try to chew the toy(s) open. A Kong or something frozen in a block of ice like /u/ifragbunniez suggested would be good, or here are a couple others I found:
http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Kibble-Nibble-Dispensing-Medium/dp/B001F0RRUA - $11.87
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002DK26M/ - $5.32
I have read some reports of dogs breaking their teeth on Nylabones, and they have never been our dogs' favorite thing anyway, so here are some alternate ideas for ya:
Have fun!
Fulfill her retriever side by doing just that, retrieving. In addition to long walks, try playing fetch with a frisbee or tennis ball. I also like giving mine a treat ball to keep him busy/entertained/thinking.
> Can you suggest a puzzle feeder that works well?
I have had good luck with wobbler toys like the one the other user suggested. I got this ball which is super cheap and takes forever to get the food out of. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002DK26M/ The downside of the ball is that it goes everywhere. The upside is that it holds a ton of food and is genuinely difficult to get kibble out of, even for me.
> Also, how do you freeze liquid in it? I tried to stuff the hole last night with PB and dry food and poor stock in there and it just drained right out
personally, I've never tried this. Off the top of my head, I might put some peanut butter in the bottom of a coffee mug, plug the small hole of the kong from the inside with about a tablespoon of peanut butter, put the small side of the kong into the peanut butter inside the coffee mug. In my mind this makes the kong stand up straight and makes a plug for the stock. Maybe freeze the peanut butter plug for an hour or so to help give it a good seal? Sounds difficult, but I can definitely see the appeal for a low-calorie long lasting treat.
> Also, how do I feed him for good behaviors? Anytime I get up he follows me so if he were playing by himself he would stop as soon as I moved, so would he still associate it with the good behavior?
this is where a clicker really comes in handy. first you "charge your clicker" by clicking and treating and clicking and treating until when he hears a click he expects a treat. Then you train with the clicker so you click as close to the moment that the dog takes a desired action as possible. So, for sit, right when the butt touches the ground. This helps to "mark" a behavior. Always give a treat for a click, but the click abstracts the marking of the behavior from the reward for the behavior. Once that is all well ingrained, being able to click for playing alone becomes way more possible.
> And if I had the food just sitting by me he wouldn't leave me alone because he knows it's there.
The clicker is great here too. Click for when he starts to ignore you, and then toss the food somewhere else (maybe his mat/towel that you are working on "go to mat" with?). Over time, he learns that ignoring you gets him good stuff too. This is hard for the human, to be both inattentive and giving attention, but it pays off like crazy.
Hope this helps. If you're interested in the clicker stuff, this is a good video to get started with. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HPDOrEEsAJ8&t=1m55s As a final piece of information, my first trainer was certified with the Karen Pryor academy, and I learned a ton from her. Good luck!
I am so sorry, big hugs to you.
My Murphy is laying beside me, I'll give him a scratch for you.
I know Murph would love to destroy this stuffies are his fave.
More hugs and love to you.
My guess is Jazmine!
My duck's name is Pig and my sister's bunny's name is Skunk!
A bunch of squirrels to kill!
What exactly is Lush?
Soapy Paws
Thanks for the contest!
Toys:
I didn't know about the 2 Week Shutdown when I got my dog and while things turned out okay in the end, I definitely think it would have been VERY beneficial to do it. So best of luck and please update us with pics when she gets home!
My dog is/was the same way. It took several months to get him to understand/play with toys. It finally started to work when we purchased the Hide-A-Squirrel toy. I would place small pieces of lunch meat/pupperoni in the base and stuff the squirrels ontop of it. So he was forced to remove the squirrels to get to the treats. Now he will play with the squirrels by themselves as well with ropes, and a frisbee. He still doesn't get balls (he just looks at them) but maybe with more time.
I have a GSD mix and the only thing (other than hide and seek) is that I bought a chicken and barn dog game that she loves. Here's something similar:
http://www.amazon.com/Plush-Puppies-Hide-A-Squirrel-Pet-Large/dp/B0002I0O60/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1382228088&sr=8-1&keywords=squirrel+game+dog
Generally, mine is only into it if I give it to her--so I doubt she'd play with it that much while I'm at work. If he's food motivated (mine isn't) there are a bunch of toys that will dispense food while requiring him to figure out a puzzle. Here are a couple examples (but there are a ton more):
http://www.amazon.com/Ethical-Seek-A-Treat-Shuffle-Bone-Puzzle/dp/B0038WP1YC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1382228265&sr=8-2&keywords=dog+food+puzzle
http://www.amazon.com/Dog-Games-Star-Spinner-Treat/dp/B00440D8GU/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1382228265&sr=8-10&keywords=dog+food+puzzle
Good luck!
My doxies absolutely refuse to leave these guys in the log.
Edit: context
I'd recommend picking up a gentle leader, just as I've done before.
Buy a harness, a harness is less likely to rub any areas raw as long as it fits properly. Front clip one will help "turn" the dog so they won't pull as much. A Gentle Leader can also work wonders by turning the head, however if the dog lunges at birds/cars/dogs/cats/etc. I wouldn't recommend.
Get a plain leash, retractable leashes actually encourage the dog to pull (since the dog has gotten used to pulling to get farther out).
You can exercise the dog indoors and only go out for potty breaks if you don't want to buy stuff just for the weekend. Play games like fetch or mental games like scavenger hunts (find hidden treats), or put treats in old water bottles, DIY toys work wonders. If the dog doesn't know any tricks/fetch you can start teaching games like sit, down, shake, roll over, etc. All good mental games.
Edited to put Shearaha1's harness suggestion.
gentle leader
What kind do you have? I have the one the slips over the snout and around the neck and clips in the front. It actually prevents her from pulling or her head gets pulled back so it teachers her to keep slack. We had a trainer when she was little and she couldn't do anything so wasted money. We got a puppy and went to puppy class and the trainer asked us to being out older dog in that pulls she recommended this. anytime she starts pulling and stops we gave her high value treat (dehydrated liver). After one mile it was night and day, but every dog is different and I wish you luck.
Found it: https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Gentle-Leader-Headcollar-Large/dp/B00074L4W2
I loved the Gentle Leader when training my Dobie. I can't upvote it enough for use to train dogs to walk with you.
Though I did get a lot of people with misconceptions that thought I had a muzzle on him.
Walking with the leash attached to the collar can be harmful. This is an interesting article with a lot of information that explains the potential issue that can arise from using a collar. A dog can receive neck injuries, ear and eye issues, hypothyroidism, malfunctioning in the forelimbs' nervous system, and behavioral problems. It concludes by urging dog owners to buy a harness.
Also note, many think that harnesses make dogs pull more, but this isn't true. The harnesses with an attachment point in the back are what do this because it gives the dog more leverage. If the only times your dog is pulling is when she panics, then using a back attachment point is viable, but you want sturdy harness with a grip then.
​
If you are interested in some alternatives (based on the information you've given), here are some I'd recommend:
Simple No-Pull Harness - I used one like this at one point. This one is really lightweight and non-obstructive. If you need a harness that doesn't restrict movement at all, this is the one. The attachment point in front is what makes it so the dog doesn't pull.
Gentle Leader - This isn't a harness, and it certainly isn't a muzzle, and it works well. I used to have a Boxer, and I used this for him. It stopped him from pulling, and if he did pull it just brought his attention back to me. Overall, it is useful and performs quite well.
RUFFWEAR Front Range - I use this one now and it is great. This one is fairly simple, it can get dirty if you go through a lot of water, mud, or the like, but mainly performs well. It has attachment points on the front and back, reflective trim, can be hand washed, and has a neat little pocket where you can attach ID tags. Plus it has a good amount of padding that makes it comfortable.
RUFFWEAR Web Master - This is one I have also used and it has done a lot for me, so I may be biased, but is a wonderful harness. I mainly use it for hiking only because there are too many noises in the neighborhood that could spook him (thats's where a front attachment comes in handy) My boy, Odin, doesn't pull much when we hike, so I can get away with the no front attachment point. It has three straps instead of just two, reflective trim, can be hand washed, and has a really sturdy handle, but it doesn't have the little ID pocket like the Front Range (not a big deal though). The handle is what is unique for this, you can use it to lift your dog (especially when hiking) or just hold them still. I also have a nervous dog, and sometimes if he gets spooked I will use this to hold on to him and calm him down.
​
Honestly, my favorite brand is RUFFWEAR because of their harnesses and all the other gear and toys they have, but Gentle Leaders and that Simple No-Pull are both good options instead of a collar.
What type of lead is Rocco on when he's on his walk? It's common to have pulling/rambunctious pup problems while they are young when using just a collar. We've used a harness and over time all pulling and unwanted behavior has virtually stopped.
For other issues, I'd suggest a gentle lead, which for some reason seems to nullify all of most dogs problems when walking. When you first start using the gentle lead, only put it on for a few minutes with a ton of treats and then work up to using it for a 5 min walk or so. Eventually, the lead will be natural and Rocco might stop this behavior. After he matures a bit more, you can go back to the regular collar/harness.
When our V was about one, she would always start off our little jogs (we'd go for about .5 miles at that age) by getting really excited and trying to bite me/the leash. After about 30 seconds of powering through, she would get into stride. She just was really excited that we were doing something different. Over time, as we worked up her mileage she completely stopped trying to nip at us once she realized it was a regular thing.
Outside of that could your partner make all of her walking sessions complete training sessions? Take a huge bag of treats and work on heel and sitting every few steps? I think if you had Rocco focused on training, he might not even get around to this behavior. It would be a little annoying at first, because it makes a quick walk to use the bathroom much more involved. It might help refocus him though.
Yeah I’m not a fan of teaching by discipline. My dogs actually have 3 different leads for walks, because things work for different types of dogs.
I’ve got one on a Gentle Leader. It’s pain free, and easy to use. The only downside was it rubbed the hair off one of my dogs, so we had to switch what he was on.
PetSafe Gentle Leader Head Collar with Training DVD, LARGE 60-130 LBS., BLACK https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00074L4W2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ArVJBbSYWZN8K
I’ve got another one on the Holy leader. For some reason he was able to just power through the gentle leader like it wasn’t even on, but the Holt seems to work as intended. Same concept of forcing the dog to turn and look at you if he pulls.
Holt Head Collar Black Size 3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005OCXVJG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1uVJBbW14C4QP
He third dog, the one who has his hair rubbed off, is on the RabitGoo harness. It has a leash attachment in the front, to prevent pulling, a handle to grab onto if needed, and a back leash attachment. They run a little big, so if he borders between sizes get the smaller one.
Rabbitgoo Dog Harness No-Pull Pet Harness Adjustable Outdoor Pet Vest 3M Reflective Oxford Material Vest for Dogs Easy Control for Small Medium Large Dogs (Black, L) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M8JT6FT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NxVJBb472BM7P
I also highly recommend the Primal Pet Gear training leash too. It’s easy on the hands and fits perfectly when my dogs are by my side. My dogs are bigger though, so I’m not sure if that makes a difference.
Primal Pet Gear Dog Leash 6ft Long - Traffic Padded Two Handle - Heavy Duty - Double Handles Lead Control Safety Training - Leashes Large Dogs Medium Dogs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072144JB1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pzVJBbPNSC8YT
I’ll look for my notes and post!
I switched to one of these Gentle Leader Headcollars, and it's just been amazing. I'm not a big fan of the "string in a reel" leashes, especially with a dog that likes to pull while leashed. With this head collar thing, I don't even need to grip the leash any more, just a light hold.
Gentle Leader. It wouldn't help you out on the chain, but it will make walking 10 times easier. Plus, you won't have to worry about causing any physical pain as you would with a metal choker.
I bought it forever ago but it’s like this
gentle leader link
I was gonna say this. It works great for my wolfhound. You need to get them used to it when they're young, but I don't think you're gonna find anything else that works this well. My 110 pound wife can walk our 180 pound wolfhound with one hand using this setup.
Here's the link: https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Gentle-Leader-Collar-Training/dp/B00074L4W2
Yes! A head lead will go a long way in training this gal to walk properly on a leash as you learn her bad habits (does she lung/bark at other dogs? try to bolt from trucks? Chase squirrels?).
http://www.amazon.com/Premier-Pet-Products-Gentle-Leader-Headcollar-Large/dp/B00074L4W2
I wish I could offer some advice, but I haven't had any experience with dogs who have hip/joint pain. If your vet thinks it's okay I would personally just be aware of any change in how the dog is moving (limping, walking funny, etc.)
I'm somehow just lucky in getting him to stop and start. I've been working with him for a while though on getting him to be better on his leash and some off leash things (at the dog park, beach, hiking) so I think that helps because he mostly wants to stay with/nearer to me. I also have a leash that wraps around him and behind his front legs so he has a harder time pulling, he still does but when we're running I'm able to have him close and pull his leash up next to me so he can't put any weight into it. A gentle leader leash may be helpful for pulling too.
Gentle lead- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00074L4W2/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00074L4W2&linkCode=as2&tag=herepup-20&linkId=H6FWR7WPUPDN3BMI
The one that wraps around - http://www.mypulleze.com/wp-content/uploads/Tucker-Pulleze.jpg
My mini is calm now but he gets excited with his favorite activities. He will ALWAYS pull with a traditional leash set up. We got the no pull that latches at his chest and he doesn't pull. That being said, if we are at the dog park, he is just too excited to get there. No amount of commands will settle him. He wants to see his friends. That way if he pulls he doesn't choke and gag himself. (But he will fall down)
PetSafe Easy Walk Harness, Large, BLACK/SILVER for Dogs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009ZBKG4/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_G3LJybEZ1S7RP
My 8 month old lab mix does the same thing!!!! It’s absolutely terrifying. Like, heart dropping, life ending terrifying.
We got him the easy walk harness and it is a game changer! Not only can he not escape but he doesn’t pull anymore on walks! Here it is on Amazon!
Ours was nuts on the leash. She pulled, went nuts if she saw anyone and was so unfocused it was awful. We needed her to learn and learn fast so she wouldn’t be a terror for her doggy sitters. We were advised to get a no lead leash. We got her this one and holy shit it has changed her.
https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Harness-Large-BLACK-SILVER/dp/B0009ZBKG4/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?keywords=no+pull+dog+harness&qid=1564444080&s=gateway&sprefix=no+pull&sr=8-11
I am not kidding, she doesn’t pull (because if she does the harness and leash turn and correct her) so she’s able to focus and listen. No more fits. Total Heeler game changer. Delightful, too smart stubborn puppy butts 😂
Something like this cat feeder
I dunno the design seems pretty solid but it doesn’t hurt to try and build a better mouse trap.
SureFeed Microchip Pet Feeder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O0UIPTY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NBZ1BbAPW2JS9
"Rfid pet feeder"
>Designed for multi-pet homes to stop pets stealing each others’ food
You could look at feeding them in different rooms. Alternatively, you can get a cat slow feeder for the bolder one and it would make him work for the food and focus on his own meal a little longer.
And if it stays a big problem and you have budget, checkout the innovative SureFlap Surefeed feeder. It is designed specifically for the purpose:
https://www.amazon.com/SureFlap-MPF001-SureFeed-Microchip-Feeder/dp/B00O0UIPTY
You could look at feeding them in different rooms. Alternatively, you can get a cat slow feeder for Felix and it would make him work for the food and focus on his own meal a little longer.
And if it stays a big problem and you have budget, checkout the innovative SureFlap Surefeed feeder. It is designed specifically for the purpose:
https://www.amazon.com/SureFlap-MPF001-SureFeed-Microchip-Feeder/dp/B00O0UIPTY
If you can afford it, get these.
If you can't afford it, just feed them a controlled amount twice a day when you're home.
yeah, but theyre not exactly cheap lol here u go!
here is a review, it really looks like such a good solution for cats with special diet needs, it kinda sucks that its so expensive lol
Oh, that's awful. I hope you and your family were all okay. Sometimes our pets just don't understand we're doing things for their own good. Maybe you can try a larger crate or a harness that hooks to a [seatbelt] (https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Adjustable-Vehicle-Seatbelt-Harness/dp/B014W40TSW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1469244557&sr=8-3&keywords=pet+seat+belt), although the latter might not be feasible in an emergency.
Edit: Kitty [holster] (https://theanimalrescuesite.greatergood.com/store/ars/item/60409/Crazy-K-Farm-Kitty-Holster-Cat-Harness-Black-XL/94842?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=arsbpla&origin=ars_bpla_94842&utm_term=1100201014648&utm_content=All%20Products)
I can't read the article (animal deaths just make me sad ) but any dog owner out there who travels with their companion please invest in a dog seatbelt. In the event of an accident your dog will not be able to bolt from the car. I can't imagine taking my dog anywhere without latching him in.
I use these. $7 (2 pack) for a little peace of mind when my dog is in the car with me. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014W40TSW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VxoZAbKQJMX40
You're not wrong though. I have a little belt that goes into the seat buckle on one side and clips onto my dogs harness on the other.
$8 for two - please make sure your pups are safe!
Dog Seatbelt
Vastar 2 Packs Adjustable Pet Dog Cat Car Seat Belt Safety Leads Vehicle Seatbelt Harness, Made from Nylon Fabric https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014W40TSW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9f9QBbJ9NX8F8
Here's the link to one such product
Also, I have a Cattle dog too, fucking loves car rides. Before my jeep I had a pickup and put him in the back once when I was headed home from the dog park. I had a bungee set up on the tow points and a 6 foot leash hooked in to that. I reversed out of my parking spot and he jumped out, leash and all. Ever since then I've been real paranoid to only roll down the window half way and stuff. But alas in the past year or so I've decided to test it and put the window down all the way. So far so good! Not on the highway, just around town n stuff. But he loves it and doesnt even give me the vibe of jumping out, so I'm not too worried and seeing him like that makes me smile.
Not the best pic, but here he is enjoying the wind
He did, we have something like this for him.
Link for the lazy
I recommend these. They clip nicely on to her harness and she doesn't seem to mind it. She is far more comfortable with this than she used to be on my lap.
I use a seat belt adapter for my pup like this one
You could also try giving her calming treats before car rides to keep her a little more relaxed. They work wonders for my dog.
Also, maybe give her a pillow or something that she could snuggle with to kind of replicate your lap.
They're cute as heck.
That's an odd seat belt situation you have going on there. I recently picked some of these up, and it might be a better system than what you've got going on, especially because you already use harnesses.
I actually am not a vandweller, but I thought I'd comment in case you wanted a cat seat belt. This is the only one I've tried
I put Vector in his walking harness and keep him in place with a "Doggy Seatbelt" like this one - https://amzn.com/B014W40TSW
Plugs into your seatbelt connector, and leashes onto your dog so that they're tethered.
If you get this, PLEASE ONLY USE IT WITH A HARNESS. Obviously you don't want your pup being thrown about the car by his neck collar if you get in an accident!
Oh shoot. But isn't my dog precious? Lol, but it was the wisdom panel from Amazon. Mars Veterinary Wisdom Panel 3.0 Breed Identification DNA Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EHX2BH0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cXGpzbG1BR3ZF
It was this one. We thought it was pretty spot on based on the way he looks and the fact that we rescued.
You can cut amazon links off before the ref, all you need is this:
https://www.amazon.com/Wisdom-Identification-Canine-Genetic-Ancestry/dp/B01EHX2BH0
Or put some text in brackets followed by the link in paranethesis text, so you get this and it doesn't matter how long the link is.
If you really want to know all that is mixed into that dog, Amazon sells a dog DNA kit. Click Here
We did DNA testing on our dog and found out she is 100% poodle. The previous owner said she was, but when do you believe someone saying a dog is 100% anything when they are selling unregistered puppies.
https://www.amazon.com/Wisdom-Identification-Canine-Genetic-Ancestry/dp/B01EHX2BH0
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01EHX2BH0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473966322&sr=8-1&keywords=dog+dna+test&pi=SX200_QL40
If you do this, please let us know! I'm curious :)
Widsom Panel is $80, and I was very pleased.
3 bearings are by design. It allows more error in alignment over 4 bearings. The plate is very flimsy and should be change at the factory but that increases cost. People have pointed out there is a drop in replacement but its out of stock
>However I think I have to replace the motherboard (not quite sure what the best word for the main controller board is). Why would I have to do this?
Because the melzi board in your printer (saying main print controller board / main controller board is fine) doesn't have enough memory in it for a feature like auto bed leveling. It's pretty much using all it's extra pins and available memory to run the version of repetier host on it (which is an older version before they added auto bed leveling).
>Could I not just replace the Z endstop switch, and wire the inductive sensor into the same inputs?
You could, but your firmware is still going to do what it's still doing, which is probe for X min, Y min, Z min, all only at 1 point. Auto bed leveling can be set up to probe multiple points on the print bed, then adjust the Z level in realtime while it's printing to make sure it's keeping the nozzle the same height from the print bed at all times. For example lets say your front left corner of your bed is at Z height 0, your front right corner is at Z+0.5mm, your printer will adjust the z height as it's printing left to right +0.5mm.
>If I do in fact need to replace the motherboard, what would my best option be?
Cheapest option is a ramps 1.4 board.. You can find them cheaper than amazon, but you'll at least need to get the arduino mega 2560, the ramps 1.4 shield, and the stepper drivers (A4988's are what your melzi board has). Basically, the display is optional if you want it to be cheaper, just remember you can't use your current melzi display on ramps though. That being said, changing over isn't too difficult, but it scares a lot of people away because it's pretty easy to fry a ramps board if you don't follow directions too closely, and it requires uploading firmware to the board (which means downloading arduino software, loading a sketch -- the link has a copy already preconfigured for the i3, but there's plenty of tutorials on the net for changing options over to using a Z probe and enabling auto bed leveling). It's a bit of new learning for new people.. but again, there's plenty of tutorials out there now on how to get it done. That being said, if you do learn how to do it, it opens up a lot of cool new options, you can pick from different firmwares like repetier host or marlin, configure lots of new features available in firmware (have the printer turn on LED lights when starting a print, etc..)
That all being said, if you want the easiest, cheapest fix, buy a new carriage plate for your heated bed. The one that comes on a lot of the newer I3's is prone to warping / bending and that's probably why you can't get a completely level bed. Swapping it out for a better quality one means you can forgo all that other work and have a bed that can be level with your current setup.. it's a lot less work and learning and probably a better solution that using auto bed leveling to solve a problem you'd want to fix anyway even with auto bed leveling.
Someone else posted this earlier. Link
Important thing to remember: Nothing is -ever- mandatory unless it's a major safety issue. The closest thing to that on that printer is the mosfet. I believe your original message implies you replaced the buildtak, so the Mosfet upgrade would be a very good idea unless you plan to change out the control board entirely.
Everything else is Optional and Quality of Life/Print stuff. ^.^
The following are examples on Amazon. Other folks and posts may have better advice on where/what to get.
Y Carriage plate
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUAMRN7/ (This is the part under the heated bed)
MicroSwiss all metal hotend (From other person's post):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E1HANLS/
Linear bearings would be LM8LUU for the Y rods. If you have the plastic bearing holders, it's easy. If you have the aluminum block bearing holders, you'll have to find somebody else to source info on the circlips and how to not become sad with them.
You can print things just fine without any of these upgrades, so don't worry about the long print (unless you run out of filament).
A new controller board can do extra stuff and is required (Highly recommended, since you "can" make the probe work on the Melzi board, but poorly and at the cost of other things) for Z-Probe use, dual extruder, and with the heated bed on that printer, can remove the need for a separate MOSFET. It opens the path for other upgrades, can improve print quality to a degree in some cases, and can drive you absolutely nuts trying to set it up.
The inexpensive Quality of Life I'd recommend are thumbwheels with nylock nuts (hard to turn, but keep your level for a long time); corner-bracket spring cups (printed); and glass print bed. Two sets of printed things and about $12 at worst for the glass.
The bearing upgrade (If you can do it without fighting circlips) helps reduce Y-axis stutter and vibration. That upgrade brought my print quality up hugely. $25 or so if you get a lot of spares or higher quality ones.
The Y platform helps you with leveling and staying level.
The lack enclosure has some printed parts, $20-40 worth of Ikea furniture, and up to $50 worth of siding depending on your ability to cut glass and plexiglass.
So many things you CAN do. None that you MUST do. Some that you SHOULD do. And everything else is Just For Fun.
You don't need to do any electrical mods. The higher voltage in the plus fixes the problems that were present on the older versions. The Z-brace mod is a good idea, but not necessary. It's easy to do and improves print quality though, so you should do it.
It's also probably a good idea to swap out the steel y carriage with a stiffer aluminum one like this, but again, it's not entirely necessary.
Thanks, got this on order: RepRap Champion Y Carriage Plate Upgrade for Wanhao Duplicator i3 and Monoprice Maker Select V1, V2, V2.1 and Plus 3D printers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUAMRN7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jlzQzbN4W6Y04
I had a warped bed with my Duplicator i3. I ended up buying a thicker carriage plate and that got rid of the warping. Now I don't have to spend so much time leveling my print.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Biking is the best! It's been a lifesaver with my dogs. I use the Walky Dog bike attachment and it's been amazing. My jogging speed is more like their slow trotting speed, but with the bike they get to all-out sprint. Plus my boy is fairly dog reactive but on a bike we go by so quickly that he hardly has time to notice other dogs.
Hey! Thanks for the kudos! I ride to work with him in the trailer (about 6mile round trip) every other day so that helped for sure. We have a walky dog as well that helped when he was getting antsy (but slows us down considerably) and then a few times where we could let him completely loose.
It was our first go at it, hence our short 22mile overnight. We're confident now that we can go further!
There is a thing for this! You can buy a special leash that attaches to your bike to make it easier for both of you.
https://www.amazon.com/Walky-Dog-Exerciser-strength-Paracord/dp/B003OYIAW4
Something like this. There are lots of different ones
Well, I can provide a bit of info but also hope to get a few answers myself.
I have a 4(ish) year old, 50lb aussie/bc mix. I bought a walky dog system this spring:
http://www.amazon.com/Petego-Walky-Hands-Free-Bicycle-Leash/dp/B003OYIAW4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1374676694&sr=8-1&keywords=walky+dog
and I am quite happy with it.
It is quite an advantage to have dog/leash tethered to your seat. Last weekend we were out for a ride/run and a fawn jumped out of the trees. Instead of having my arm ripped off or the bike pulled off the road, the combination of your weight on the seat and the good sized spring in the bar that allows the leash to flex kept us both under control. It is also good that the dog can't cut in front of the bike with this setup. The bar is a quick detach from the bracket so it is easy to deal with as well. Thumbs up on the product.
Now my related question. I have been unsure how far is too far for my Aussie to run. We were out for a couple of miles on the weekend and I think that is about the max without a good break at this point. I don't know know if more trips will increase range or not. So anyone been doing this long enough or have some data on how far a fit Aussie should be able to run? I would love to get up to 6-10 miles but heck, the dog has to run alongside. I am not sure that is reasonable?
I may be coming at this from a different angle, but I did NOT want my dog to pull. I thought it might teach her bad habits for on walks. So I got a dog biking apparatus with springs in it amd now she trots along perfectly!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003OYIAW4?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Just started up biking with Tigger for the first time last week. We have now been on 4 rides and I LOVE it. She loves to run and this has been a great outlet for her. Not to mention she took to it like a pro - no fear of the bike, heeled when I told her to, and so far she has not pulled me off.
We have a nice bike path near our house to ride on as well. I have only ridden on that path so far because I don't trust her on the streets. If we keep up with this I am going to buy a bike attachment this summer.
Hey there, I know exactly what you're dealing with. I Love pit bulls and had one for 13 years. Now my dog was very very chill when it came to bath time and getting his nails trimmed. But I also had him since he was 4 weeks old and I used to mess with him all the time while we would lay together ( put fingers in his mouth, ears, play with his toes, etc. ) which i think helps. Anyways my roommate has a blue and our dogs lived together and she HATED getting her nails trimmed.. mind you shes about 65 lbs with a massive head. Built like a tank and super strong. We would have hold her down unfortunately as best as we could. Literally my roommate would hold her with all his strength and I would take one of those pet grooming dremel kits (I got on amazon) and just go for it. Those dremels worked the best in my experience, really easy and fast. Before we had the dremel and just clippers it was almost impossible to trim her nails. I know it sucks to have to hold the dog down but maybe that dremel would help you. Also we would leave it out for her too, to help her get used to it. even when she would lay in her bed we would set it next to her.
this is the dremel I use.
http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7300-PT-4-8-Volt-Pet-Grooming/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406066521&sr=8-1&keywords=dog+dremel
Good luck!
For getting rid of molded clothes, and so many other super useful things, I recommend owning a dremel, or other rotary tool.
You don't need a fancy one. I've got 3 dremel tools, of varying degrees of torque and power. One is identical to this one - only without the pet grooming branding. It's still a dremel - it'll still work.
Dremel 7300-PT 4.8V Pet Nail Grooming Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jF4xDb8CJPTXW
$30
I did find this guy for a super cheap price -
WEN 23006 Two-Speed Cordless Rotary Tool Kit with 10-Piece Accessory Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MSL9PW4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4C4xDb9MG46FY
$12
Can't vouch for it being any good, given its price, but it should be compatible with the dremel rotary bits, and for a starter tool, and just working on dolls, it should be fine.
Whatever rotary you get, you'll need a few things to go with it. I recommend one or both of these -
Sanding drums
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BK1VRH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yJ4xDb738D61Y
Abrasive buffing wheels
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075C72PGK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NH4xDbCZ6DM5C
The buffing wheels are pretty good a removing tiny molded clothing details without eating up the plastic a lot.
If you ever do anything with apoxie-sculpt, the dremel can come in handy with grinding down things after its cured.
OH - and sand paper. Buy sand paper.
I recommend getting some 120 grit, 220 grit, and some 400 grit. You work your way from the lower, rougher paper, up to 400 to get a smooth finish. When you get up to 400, make sure you sand in circular motions to avoid leaving gouges in the plastic.
So this is the dremel:
https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7300-PT-4-8V-Nail-Grooming/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510937485&sr=8-3&keywords=dog+nail+dremel
I can't speak on longevity obviously, but compared to the ones I see in the youtube videos, it is much more quiet but plenty powerful. I started using it just on the low setting to acclimate her, but found that the high isn't much louder, and we get it done so much faster. But you could definitely just use the low setting, too. I really hope you have the same success as us if you get it. I feel like such a crappy owner when I let her nails get longer than they should be, but the struggle is real! I would dread taking her in for an entire week leading up to actually doing it.
Yea it's electric. It's not really a nail filer though... more of a rotary tool for general use. This is the model I have. It comes with a lot of different attachments: wire bushes, sanding drums, grinding stones, grinding wheels, small rotary files or burrs, maybe some more stuff so it's pretty useful around the house too.
My mom got me into it because she's involved with greyhound rescue groups and their nails are in really bad shape when they come off the tracks. Using clippers, they had way too many blood-spraying, dog-helping-in-pain-accidents. Clippers are easy to overshoot your intended cut and cut the quick and they're also known for splitting nails in half or muliple pieces, either right when you cut it or if they snag a small piece on the carpet it can rip off the splintered part of the nail.
My mom swears by [this extension](
http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-225-01-Flex-Shaft-Attachment/dp/B0000302Y8/ref=pd_bxgy_469_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0HS02GVFVQ5Z8AQDSF7G) that allows the noise of the electric motor to be a few feet away. I don't have one these.
Then when you run out of sanding drums that came with your dremel, you can but a lifetime supply for [$8.99]
(http://www.amazon.com/TEMO-sand-coarse-Mandrel-dremel/dp/B00564U22G/ref=pd_sim_469_10?ie=UTF8&dpID=41G2GNphVlL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0YAGTNM5J58CC1PVN0B9)
Edit: Dremel must have caught on, they now sell a specific pet grooming model. I can't speak for it but it looks quite a bit smaller than mine, I'll admit mine is a little overkill but I use it for other things too.
+1 for the dremel trimmers. I had 5 dogs before I learned this trick. My just give me her paw like she's at the spa and it takes me 2 minutes a leg.
In fact, Dremel makes a tool just for pet nails.
I'd wear a jacket in case he tries to nip. It also helps to have two people (one to restrain rabbit, one to clip).
Some people also choose to file their rabbits nails using a dremel. It's a slower process, but for some rabbits stresses them out less. https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7300-PT-4-8V-Nail-Grooming/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540144457&sr=8-3&keywords=pet+nail+grinder+for+dogs
or
https://www.amazon.com/Hertzko-Electric-Painless-Grooming-Smoothing/dp/B01IPW47BW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1540144457&sr=8-4&keywords=pet+nail+grinder+for+dogs
Good luck!
I got a dremel pet tool to sand them down instead of cutting them. It's a lot more gentle so it hardly bothers them at all. Worth every penny
I suggest using a Dremel too, I have this: Dremel 7300-PT 4.8V Pet Nail Grooming Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bJ4AzbCECPMBF
I use the battery powered Dremel. They have one on Amazon for pets and it comes with instructions(for pet use) and some sanding drums.
Dremel 7300-PT 4.8-Volt Pet Grooming Kit
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_zePWub0KSDKZR
The price has changed since I got it. It was the same price as the non pet one.
Just do a little at a time even if its on nail then come back later and do another one. Another thing is having them walk on concrete .
Your new friend: [the dremel] (http://www.dailypuppy.com/articles/how-to-use-a-dremel-to-trim-a-dogs-nails_804.html) I got mine [online] (http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7300-PT-4-8-Volt-Pet-Grooming/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=sr_1_1?srs=5538998011&ie=UTF8&qid=1377028567&sr=8-1&keywords=dogs)
Worth a shot! It's a lot safer too as you can visually see when you're coming close to the quick. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TU0XG4
https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7300-PT-4-8V-Nail-Grooming/dp/B003TU0XG4
Dremel does make a nail grinder - their version of the Pedi Paws. I had a Pedi Paws and it kinda sucked and then ended up crapping out after only about a year or two. I replaced it with Dremel's version and it works so much better! I got mine on Amazon. It's only $25, so not too bad!
Dremel 7300-PT 4.8V Pet Nail Grooming Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pRZsyb2E1QJ4S
I also prefer Dremel over clippers after using them both. I like that the ends of the nail end up smooth instead of having somewhat sharp edges that you get with clippers. It's also easier to get the nail shorter, IMO, because if you do hit the quick it's a much smaller impact than clippers.
I use this one on the low setting . Find the right holding position for your dog (shouldn't be hard with a 40 pound-er) and tell him he's a good boy when he's not squirming. "Practice" using the Dremel on him without turning it on. You won't actually be trimming his nails at this point. When he seems to be used to that turn the Dremel on at arms length while still holding him. If he doesn't freak out then move it closer. Touch the handle end of the Dremel to a nail while the Dremel is on so he can feel the vibrations without the grinding. If he's still being a good boy then start trimming. The best time to do your dog's nails is when he's tired and/or asleep.
I've heard a normal dremel is best, just get the attachment for it, but I bought this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TU0XG4/
Have not been disappointed with it. It does take a long time to grind down hard black nails on large(70+lb) dogs, but I think that's probably true of any dremel.
We have always had a hard time clipping our pugs nails. They freak out, then I freak out and it become a whole mess. We purchased a Dremel nail grinder and it's much better now. Still takes two people, but a lot less freaking out on both parts. Here is the one we have http://www.amazon.com/B003TU0XG4.
my mini wigglebutt has the same problem. He likes to be chased and chase things but doesn't like to return the ball. He thinks it is funner to drop the ball wait there and make me try and go get it and then he will pick it up and run. He gets nippy so its hard to play with him because he gets so amped up. i got him a tethertug that he will play with. https://tethertug.com I get him different squeaker toys to put on the end and he will latch onto it which is good. Although the toy is meant to be able to play by himself he does not like that. So I stay on the other end and get him amped up and swing it at him which he likes. He wont nip at me cause he will go after the toy and i don't have to go after every toy because it is in the ground. He will get tired pretty quickly which is nice. If you don't want to hammer a metal stake in the ground, I also have a flirt pole. its like the same thing as the tether tug but instead of it being in the ground you hold it and fly it around and my wigglebutt will hold on and likes to be dragged. https://www.amazon.com/Outward-Hound-41001-Exercise-Replacement/dp/B0042I5G2I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469571753&sr=8-1&keywords=flirt+pole something like this. I would recommend getting a flirt pole first to see if she likes the idea of having a toy on a pole. Hope this helps. it certainly has helped me not get nipped at, herded, or pull my shoulder out from playing with him.
I switched from normal bowl-feeding to [this food dispenser toy] (https://www.amazon.com/StarMark-Treat-Kibble-Dispensing-Puppy/dp/B01CP7B9L4/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468270533&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=bobalot+feeder) and my dog LOVES it. It's hilarious to watch him knock it around and he just about does cartwheels at meal times.
Is it possible to start taking your pups for walks to tire them out? Or teaching fetch to tire them out quicker in the backyard, or tug of war?
I've also been thinking about getting a [flirt pole] (https://www.amazon.com/Outward-Hound-41001-Exercise-Replacement/dp/B0042I5G2I/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1468270723&sr=1-1&keywords=flirt+pole) as my dog got to play with one at our training class this weekend and about crapped his pants (he really liked it). I think the trick is to figure out what activity your dogs likes best – chewing? squeaky stuff? chasing? digging? nosework? and then finding more focused activites related to that. Good luck!
We adopted our Yorkie at 7 months and I didn’t realize adolescence was a thing until about a week later. He’s 8 months now and still has his moments. We started clicker training with him via a group class and it’s helped eons. What I’d recommend most is what you seem to be doing—longer walks to help with excess energy. You may also want to look into mental stimulation. Our trainer recommended taking Amazon or any sort of packaging boxes and playing scent games using them. They seem to tire out our guy.
One more—this lure toy or anything like it. it helps SO MUCH with excess energy.
Flirt poles are god send especially on a rainy day. Dogs will chase that thing until they're ready to pass out. May want to get the "off" command down before getting the flirt pole just so it's not so annoying getting the dog to let it go. Flirt poles don't hold up as well as I would like.
I have always bought my dogs this one
I absolutely second the flirt pole if you can get your backyard fenced in. Hell, I use it in my house for Charlie (though he's only 8 lbs and I have a decent sized living room.) I also take him in the backyard with a flirt pole and long line attached to his harness. You might look into those too. Long line and Flirt Pole
My dogs favorite are her flirt pole and "Find it". You can also ask for some more tips on /r/Dogtraining
Shibas play differently than other dogs. The best way we kept our girl interested in playtime with a ball was to get a cat toy - had a stuffed bird inside and made noise when it rolled. She loved it and it spurred her prey drive. We also got a dog-hearty flirt pole and it’s still her favorite toy.
For the biting - he’s probably never been taught how to mouth rather than bite down and doesn’t realize what he’s doing. The trainer should be able to help with that.
I have a very high energy dog as well. He has separation anxiety and can be destructive when bored as well.
Crate training was hard and took more than 6 months but gives him a safe place while we are gone. He’s even gone into the kennel on his own one time when he saw me getting ready to leave!
Establishing a morning/daily routine also has helped a ton with that. That would also help with the house training!
As far as the energy goes, both mental stimulation and physical exercise are important. We take Benji to the dog park almost every day. If we don’t make it there, he gets a long (2-4mi) walk in the morning and evening. The exercise is good for me too! We got a martingale collar and that has helped a ton for the pulling! Highly recommend. We also got this toy which may help you as well- he loves it! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0042I5G2I/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_9ldRBbTG31S4F Mental stimulation can be new smells or behavior/clicker/treat training.
Good luck!
6 years old is middle-aged, so she's not going to have as much energy as a younger dog does. She's also going to have some extra skin that may look flabby. Don't make her run if she doesn't want to, since dogs overheat extremely easily. Continue taking her to the dog park and look into different toys like a flirt pole. Don't bother with supplements, everything she needs is in commercial dog food.
https://www.amazon.com/Squishy-Face-Studio-Exercise-Squeaker/dp/B00HFFXEWE
If your puppy is strong for his size, get a large flirt pole meant for bigger breeds. I know our pug Fizgig (1yr)LOVES to play with things meant for bigger dogs. And I honestly think she feels like she's a BIG dog lol.
A cool way of giving your dog a great work out, without overstressing the body, is a flirt pole. I got one for Capone, and he's loving it! As am I!!! It get's him nice and tired, way more than any walk ever would. I've heard you shouldn't run or weight train them until at least 1.5 so that you don't mess up the hips, growth plates, or bone development... I've talked to my vet about it and he says the flirt pole is great!!
Here's what I use
Enjoy!!
Hi there! Yes, I too have a big strong reactive pit. I agree that getting in some work to tire her out physically will go a long way. Will she play fetch in the yard? You could always play some fetch or use a flirt pole to wear her out before going on your joyride. Then she could actually enjoy the joy ride without having pent up energy.
Hm. When you did nosework in the past, did you do it on oils? Formal nosework uses their search/scent instincts, but the prize is usually an essential oil scent (like birch), which doesn't smell at all like any prey animals. If you haven't already done that, it might be worth a shot without the risk of bringing home other animals.
i built it after hearing about them (http://www.make-and-build-dog-stuff.com/homemade-dog-toy.html). if i had it to do again, i'd probably go with a pvc pipe handle so the rope actually goes through the whole handle to allow the toy to be pulled to the end of the pole for storage (and wrap up the excess rope). i've seen similar toys on amazon called "flirt poles" - but they didn't look as sturdy as the one i made. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HFFXEWE
here's a video of a play session:
https://youtu.be/-TuZ9iGY8Lo
The dog will be fine. My boyfriend and I just adopted a dog the end of May this year. She is a 1.5 yrs old Malamute/GSD/Lab mix. She has a TON of energy. We are out of the house from 6:50am-5pm and we have a webcam set up to watch her while at work, all she does all day is sleep in the sun. When we are home, we make sure to play with her, take her for a 20-30 mins walk in the morning before we leave, and a 40-60 mins walk in the evenings. We take her to the dog park on the weekends to help her burn off her energy as well.
If you are worried about burning off the energy, we invested in a flirt pole for her, maximum energy burn for her, minimum time/effort for us :)
Your job is absolutely not a problem!
Every dog is different - maybe ask your relatives what their dog likes? One of mine is a serious foodie and the other is more into toys/playtime.
FWIW - I wouldn’t offer it food without making sure they’re ok with it. Some dogs have incredibly sensitive stomachs and are on a specific diet.
Edit - if they have space and you’re down to spend a little, Ive yet to find a dog that doesn’t like a flirt pole. Would also be a way to keep the dog a ways away from you while playing
Squishy Face Studio Flirt Pole V2 Dog Exercise Toy with Blue/Aqua Squeaker Fleece Lure, 36-Inch - V2FP-BS
Do you think your dog would like this? It’s basically a giant cat toy
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HFFXEWE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538696104&sr=8-1&keywords=squishy+face+flirt+pole&dpPl=1&dpID=317xyhwyOtL&ref=plSrch
It sounds crazy but that honestly might not be enough exercise, especially if he's still "run[ning] around bonkers a bit on his own too". I am so glad I ended up with a smaller, semi-lazy dog, because even with four walks a day - adding up to probably around 6 miles total - he sometimes has extra energy to burn and we have to play fetch with him or tire him out with a flirt pole (which he LOVES). I'd be totally screwed if I had a larger, more active dog!
Mine dealt with separation anxiety, too, and it took months to train him to trust that we were coming back. High-value treats and food-dispensing toys helped a lot. It took a little while to figure out what he liked best. He goes nuts for peanut butter and bully sticks, though he chews through the latter in about five minutes so I started blending peanut butter with yogurt and water, piping that into a Kong plugged with a dried liver treat, and shoving the bully stick in the middle and then freezing that all so it takes him longer to get through. He also loves deer antlers, which are long lasting.
We decided to partition off one puppy-proofed room of the house instead of limiting him to just the crate. Now that he's finally used to us being gone he voluntarily goes into the crate to sleep until we get back.
The flirt stick I have is here (which honestly was probably way more sturdy than my dogs need XD), but you can also learn how to make your own here. It's important to limit tugging and chewing on the flirt stick anyway-- the game is the chase!
​
Rally is something you can easily start doing at home if you're interested and if your dog enjoys training with you. You can see signs and descriptions here and there's a great video demonstrating the signs here. If there's a certain exercise you're stuck on, you can generally find videos on YouTube that will teach you how to teach your dog X, Y, or Z. (This is how I learned how to teach my girl fronts.) I use a treat pouch when I train, and my dog gets SO excited when she sees me put the pouch on! In novice, you don't really need any equipment (some signs include cones, but you can either avoid those signs or use other things you have around to act as cones), which makes it a little more accessible than agility off the bat.
We had the same problem with our two kitties. One is almost 3 kg heavier than his brother and was eating way too much, so we got two of these.
They're a bit pricey, but are perfect for this situation as they only open when the registered microchip is within distance of the feeder. If the fat one tries to bully his way in, the flap will slide shut and force him out. They each get their portion in the morning and can "free feed" from their own dish all day. :)
Alors ça ira très bien.
Toys that exercise the puppies mind.. Hands down bar none to any other toy (sans good chewy toys)
This treat ball helped me regain some sanity from my over energetic pup. Fill it with kibble and they push it around as a few pieces drop out here and there until they are done. Has REALLY helped during times where he needed to tire himself out.
Bully sticks are great but if your pup turns into an aggressive chewer, these things will go fast and will quickly become VERY pricey.
Finally, if you're dog becomes a little hard to manage before he/she learns to walk on a leash, an easy walk harness clips to a d ring in the front of the pup's chest. When they pull it forces them to turn around which turns pulling counterproductive for them.
Hope you enjoy your new pup! That said here's the latest addition to the family. Jäger
It takes a lot of patience, for sure, but something that I found works with my Shiba Inu (who is also crazy on leash) is the easy-walk harness (http://www.amazon.com/Premier-Easy-Harness-Large-Black/dp/B0009ZBKG4). Since it hooks in the front, when they pull it will pull their legs so they have to stop. It doesn't hurt like a choke collar and works really well. It's not an instant fix, but it helps. I watch a lot of dog training shows (i.e. It's Me or the Dog and The Dog Whisperer), which will give you a lot of good tips for walking. The harness would be a good start, though. :)
And just for fun, here's my Shiba, Archie: http://imgur.com/eXL59
My dog never puts this chew toy down.
She also loves elk antlers, and they work wonders to keep her occupied!
I also recommend the Easy Walk Harness. It keeps our dog in check on walks and she is much more willing to listen when she's in that vs. a normal leash.
Good luck finding your new family pet !
I use this "Easy Walk" harness which is a front attaching harness. It is revolutionary, I have used it since my dog was a puppy and she walks amazingly with it, right beside me.
Idk if OP is referring to The "Gentle Leader" harness which goes around their snout instead. It's the more extreme one and would be the one to try if the front attaching harness doesn't work.
I've had this one for years. Works great
http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Harness-Large-Black-Silver/dp/B0009ZBKG4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1412742261&sr=8-3&keywords=Dog+harness
I am so sorry you're going through this right now. I have no real useful advice besides: get an Easy Walk Harness. It will make walking the pup much, much easier. And not walking him is a recipe for disaster for both of you.
Also, ice cream :)
I work in a dog boarding facility and have to constantly deal with dogs that pull everyday, usually German Sherpherds, Newfoundlands, and Rottweilers. I invested in this awhile ago. No pulling, no wheezing. It's great. Don't know if you have tried a harness like this but it is a great investment.
We use the Easy Walk. Works great.
I assume yours is a two-loop step in harness like this one?
If so, you can attach a sturdy keyring or carabiner to where the front-most horizontal strap goes through the between-the-legs strap, so you can attach the leash to the dog's chest instead of the back.
It's NOT as good as a purpose made front-clip harness like OP's dog has, and there is a risk of the dog being able to escape the harness if they do a serious tuna fish maneuver (though I've had dogs escape from step-ins even when top clipped), but I've walked a few dogs ghetto-front-clipped with this step-in kind of harness and it's much better than back-clipping for leash pullers.
If you're worried about slipping out, you can attach the leash to the collar via a safety strap, and put a sturdy keyring around the two D rings at the clasp just in case.
EDIT: As a dog walker who's used a LOT of different harnesses on different dogs, this style of harness is by far my favourite. There are loads of different brands that make basically the same thing so shop around, but it's a really good design for medium to large breeds.
It's just a standard front hook harness. He was a rescue that had poor leash skills, the front hook harnesses work similarly to a gentle leader in that when the dog pulls away the leash pulls their body back toward the handler. He caught on quick and handles very well now!
PetSafe Easy Walk Harness, Large, BLACK/SILVER for Dogs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009ZBKG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9ulGzb6Q0G8E3 some reviews complained about their pups being able to slip out of this one but we haven't had that problem. There's others with similar style that snap at the chest but it makes it basically impossible for a pup to pull.
Just wanted to add maybe a harness that clasps in the front to give you a bit more control in the mean time. Something like this really help while training my dog to heel.
For a simple solution try http://www.amazon.com/pet-supplies/dp/B0009ZBKG4. The collar really prevents them from pulling. We've had our dog on it for a few weeks and really noticed an improvement. We first heard about it from a dog trainer. Good luck!
I have a 1.5 year old Labrador with an endless amount of energy. I take him on a bike ride almost every single morning and depending on energy level some times twice a day.
He has the Easy Walk harness http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Harness-Large-Black-Silver/dp/B0009ZBKG4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427159959&sr=8-1&keywords=easy+walk+harness
Basically uses his body weight against him.
I bike with my left hand on the bike at all times and my right hand free with his leash wrapped around my wrist. He caught on quick and will stay right by my side 90% of the time. There is an occassional lunge here and there at a squirrel but with my arm off the bike it just whips him back around with the easy walk harness (uses his body weight against him and pulls him around towards you).
I never thought the ones that attached to the bike were safe seeing as my 85lb dog is pretty powerful. He can yank on my arm all he wants and not pull me over but I worry with the bike attach ones he could alter the bike enough to possibly cause me to crash.
Just an FYI - this comment was auto-removed because referral links aren't allowed. If you want to post something from amazon, it needs to be chopped down to just the item number, like this:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000C9YHFS/
Look into getting a stuffed animal with a heartbeat to put alongside them in their crate, such as this:
https://www.amazon.com/SmartPetLove-Snuggle-Puppy-Behavioral-Brown/dp/B000C9YHFS/ref=sr_1_3?crid=POEPM14MF4GV&keywords=puppy+heartbeat+stuffed+animal&qid=1565801743&s=gateway&sprefix=puppy+heart%2Caps%2C158&sr=8-3
Maybe try a Snuggle Puppy? It really helped our pup during her first week home. She would fall asleep right on top of the snuggle pup, comforted (I assume) by the simulated heartbeat and source of warmth.
My 8 week old Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever (closely related to Goldens) was not a fan of the crate at all. We'd put her in there, even if she was tired, and she'd start whining up to a half hour.
I read about the Snuggle Puppy and the reviews on Amazon seemed too good to be true, but I wanted her to have an easier time and $30 seemed worth a shot. So, we got her this and honestly, it helps so much. The newer model comes with a heart that has an 8 hour setting, a continuous setting (runs until battery dies) and off.
So, what we do now is throw in some Freeze Dried Beef Liver Treats (the Ferrari of dog treats) in her Kong, top it off with some peanut butter and put that in the crate with her Snuggle Puppy. She'll go in there, work on her Kong and lay down. Once she lays down we cover the front of her cage with a blanket or towel to reduce some of the light and she goes to sleep with nary a whimper. It's been working day or night. It definitely comforts her. I highly recommend it.
I’m sorry I don’t have advice but that is so sweet! I just found this thing and thought it was so cute! Maybe she would like it!
SmartPetLove Snuggle Puppy Behavioral Aid Toy, Brown Mutt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C9YHFS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2giODbGRJ7JDK
I can't offer you advice on everything, but definitely try the snuggle puppy. I've heard other people mention it on this sub and it apparently replicates the sound of a heartbeat and has heat inserts that your puppy might want to cuddle with.
Honestly these things are super effective against dogs. Except dogs that are professionally trained to take down people like Police K9s.
If you want to protect yourselves agains dogs this is the thing you need. Knives might look more awesome but they are way less effective against dogs.
Looks like you can get them for fairly cheap online. This is one of many.
http://www.amazon.com/DAZER-II-Ultrasonic-Dog-Deterrent/dp/B000IBRI2Y
Looking into getting one of these dog deterrent remotes, you press a button it plays a very high pitched noise that only dogs can hear. It doesn't hurt them but I guarantee it will scare it away. https://www.amazon.com/Dog-Dazer-II-Ultrasonic-Deterrent/dp/B000IBRI2Y#productDescription_secondary_view_div_1500834113272
These. My brother-in-law had a dog problem and this worked. Plus he wired them right into motion detector lights, then it would trigger when the dog would walk by the garage and wouldn't get a chance to bark. After like two months the dog didn't come to that side of the garage and if it did it didn't bark.
But that was out in the sticks.
Dog Dazer II Ultrasonic Dog Deterrent https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IBRI2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5Cd7ybAVXMPKX
OxGord Stop Dog Barking Ultrasonic Anti Bark Off Limiter Birdhouse Box Silencer Controller Device for Pets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XNU2UZ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5Jd7yb51HXJ56
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B000IBRI2Y/?ie=UTF8&condition=new
I was going to chime in and say that these gates do exist. We have a basement where the stairs are just open to the kitchen, and need a way to keep a crawling baby upstairs but let the cats (all 3 of them!) go down because their litterboxes are in the basement. We're getting this one because of the excellent reviews (and yes it's a small enough opening that a baby old enough to crawl won't be able to fit their head through, one of my concerns about it).
https://www.amazon.com/Carlson-Extra-Wide-Through-44-Inch/dp/B000JJDI0G
There's also baby gates with cat doors in them. http://www.amazon.com/Carlson-0930PW-Extra-Wide-Walk-Thru-White/dp/B000JJDI0G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409088264&sr=8-1&keywords=pet+gates+with+cat+door
How big is your dog?
Instead of cutting a hole in the door, maybe try this baby gate The only issue I had with this gate was my dog was too small when he was a puppy and could fit right through. Took him a few months to get too big for the cat door
We have the same configuration of house/floors. We use a gate like this, though without the pet door: Carlson Extra Wide Walk Through Pet Gate with Small Pet Door, 37-Inches Wide https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JJDI0G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZhuEAbYGDPRV2. Our son didn't seem much bigger than our cats when we got them and in thought he would just crawl through the pet door. You drill little cups into the walls on either side and then the posts that extend on either side can't slide away. It's very secure. We don't usually spend much time except for sleeping upstairs, so we only ever close the uppermost gate for short periods, like when we're getting ready in the morning, for bed, or doing chores while our son runs around, to keep from blocking our cats from the box/food, depending. The gate to the bottom floor is always closed but the cats don't go down there anyway.
ETA; one floor has a wooden banister/grate thing on one side instead of a plaster/solid wall, and the gate makes the whole thing sit at a bit of an angle, but doesn't seem to affect the safety.
Whenever she complains, send her links to child-safe cabinet latches, cleaning supplies (mops or floor cleaners) or pet baby gates.
I bought this:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000JJDI0G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Worked really well and you can buy extensions. Don't have to mount it to anything either.
I have this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JJDI0G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Which has a cat door, but you can close that easily so they can't get through. It worked well for us until our 60lb lab mix figured out how to get through the effing cat door. Still can't believe that happened.
My puppy was snatching cat poop, too!! We got this gate to keep her out of the room that the litter box is in, it works wonderfully and she hasn't eaten poop in a couple months now :)
My two current faverites are the Tricky Treat Ball and the Tug-A-Jug.
For the ball getting the first half of the kibble out is pretty easy but the second half is pretty tricky (aka getting the dog hooked and then upping the difficulty). The Jug is just awesome but it's loud as hell on wood floors and drives me nuts so I'll only give it to her when I'm about to leave the house.
I've also heard good things about Buster Cubes because they've got adjustable openings but I really need to stop buying stuff for my spoiled pup so I don't have one.
My mom'a husky mix likes this treat dispenser rope thing and I've had several large breed fosters like this egg treat dispenser thing
I think what works for your dog probably depends on his preferences and chew intensity. If you're not solely interested in treat/food dispensers, you might look into some of the scent training aids. You can buy animal scents in liquid form, and you basically put a few drops on a piece of scrap fabric and hide it as a game. My beagle loved it when he was younger. I put it in a kong or kong-like toy then hide the toy. Of course, I'd never leave it hidden unattended. They still have scent hound competitions so there's quite a bit of information out there about training.
I don’t use those in particular, my current go tos are the tug a jug, Magic mushroom, and game changer.
I usually show him that kibble comes out and let him go to town. If he seems to be having trouble, I’ll usually show him every couple of minutes what to do but he usually picks it up pretty quick.
I introduced him to them pretty much as soon as I brought him home at 9 weeks. He very rarely gets a meal in a bowl. It’s pretty much training and puzzle toys when I’m feeling lazy.
Awwww! As bad as that is, that's really cute. Mine does that too. I bought her one of these bad boys and now she no longer destroys my personal property lol
So much destruction in a small package, am I right?
http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Buddy-Tug-A-Jug-Dispensing-Medium/dp/B000KV7ZGQ
I'm in the same boat you are, just 6 months in. Never had a dog before, always a cat person. Here's what I've learned (so far).
Also a puzzle toy is an option. My little pig-dog has a tug-a-jug, which takes him a good five minutes to eat his dinner, instead of fifteen seconds.
[This bottle] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KV7ZGQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_87STAbYCHNNXY). Our girl ripped out the rope almost immediately. We put a tennis ball in the bottle and now a few tiny treats provide her hours of entertainment.
I can totally understand not wanting to leave her in her crate for so many total hours each day. First I would recommend having lots and lots of toys on hand. The idea is to try to keep her engaged as much as possible while she's out there. Dogs can get tired of toys so I suggest investing in some new ones if you can and rotate them every few days. Have lots of chew toys on hand including hooves, horns (mine loves water buffalo horns especially) and antlers. The Busy Buddy Tug-a-jug can be a great toy once they get the hang of it. People who keep dogs in their apartment will actually give them all of their chow in these (start with small sized kibble first - any ACD mix will be smart enough to figure it out quickly) and they work to get it out during the course of the day. This will tire them out not only physically but mentally as well, which is hugely important, especially for ACD's. Along these lines, find new ways to engage her when you are home. Walks and exercise are essential but maybe start some training on new tricks (just 5-8 minutes at a time). ACD's need a job to do and helping to fulfill that in various ways can help to ease anxiety during others times of the day. It will be a process and it may not come without some trouble but it should eventually get better. I hope some of this is useful.
Wood Treat Puzzles like the ones Zanie's, Ethical Pets, and Nina Ottosson make are all ones my pit likes. Since they're made of wood they'll last a while. Also the Premier Tug-a-Jug has kept him guessing for 2 weeks now.
My Blanco did not eat so fast that he seemed to be getting sick, but knowing that he would enjoy being engaged for his food, we bought him this: https://www.amazon.com/StarMark-Bob---Lot-Interactive-Large/dp/B001JQLNB4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1469221369&sr=8-2&keywords=dog+food+toy
I won't say he loves it, but he knows how it works and never leaves a piece behind. I've heard of dogs getting bored/frustrated by toys like this and refusing to eat if that is how their food is served, but he has been using it for a few months now and nothing has changed yet.
Plus it gives me like twenty minutes of me-time where I don't have to worry about entertaining him.
This.
It's interactive, and it's fantastic. I put Yumi's daily serve of dry food in it, and she is far more interested in it than she is when it's in a bowl.
I second toys, toys and more toys. I actually tend to buy her Ikea toys cause they're cheap so I can replace them when she destroys them (toys will be destroyed), they're made for babies so there's nothing she can rip off and swallow, and some even have squeaky things which she loves.
Give them more toys than you can poke a stick at. Thus far, they have saved my furniture and house from destruction. Well, except for the computer chair. For some reason she's obsessed with the wheels.
Dogs need two types of exercise, physical and mental. Although what you are doing with him does have a lot of mental stimulation it's mostly physical. Spend some time every morning and evening doing some type of training, either a new trick, or reinforcing the things he already knows.
Also get toys that will keep his mind active. I feed my dog with this every evening. You could also try a Snuffle mat.
I've found that most dogs chew because they're either bored or they teething. Keeping them active both physically and mentally will help cut a lot of unwanted chewing. After that just keep consistent and when you find them chewing on something they are not supposed to chew give them something they can.
It's up to us to teach them what is or is not allowed, they eventually catch on, but sometimes it can take a bit.
Especially a no pull harness or even a gentle leader (although the Holt Head collar is apparently better). My dog pulls HARD when we go on walks. I can't describe how much better she is with the easy walk harness or head collar.
Most dogs hate gentle leaders, get an easy walk and be done with it.
Use a harness for walking, then you don't choke your dog or wear out their collar. I use this one, it attaches in the front so if the dog pulls it turns him and he stops tugging
Someone has already posted a Zak George video on this, which you should try.
Also, what type of collar/harness are you using? The opposition reflex in some dogs can be VERY strong.
I've been trying for months to get my puller to stop. One thing that helped me a lot was a front hooking harness. I am using the PetSafe EasyWalk harness.
http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Harness-Large-Black-Silver/dp/B0009ZBKG4
Properly fitting this had helped a ton. We can now take walks his first instinct isn't to pull against the harness.
The cool thing I discovered is all the no pulling training I had been working on he actually knows. He just couldn't get over that pull reflex.
Walks in the evening have been very enjoyable since!
This harness does not choke or gag my dog, and when he pulls to hard it draws his attention back to me so I can guide him properly.
Yeah ive seen those before, i know they are pretty popular but i could see people who dont have dogs thinking they are muzzles :-/. the front hook discourages pulling on the easy walk.
https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Harness-Large-BLACK-SILVER/dp/B0009ZBKG4
No problem, hope it helps! Also, for no pull leads for dogs I really like the Gentle Leader and the Easy Walk if that's an option you are also interested in for general leash walking manners.
We have been using our easy walk harness forever! It is a front clip which can help teach your cav not to pull since it diverts their walking when they pull. It is low profile so you can see their beautiful coat instead of a harness!
PetSafe Easy Walk Dog Harness, No Pull Dog Harness, Black/Silver, Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009ZBKG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3pb3DbPMSG2JZ
We use easy walk harnesses, they hook in front. We don't get pulled around like a dogsled now.
I would recommend the Easy walk or Gentle leader harnesses for the pulling if it becomes a problem. Some huskies just don't seem to want to take to the "heel" command. Outside of that, I personally haven't found a need for any special collars for my husky.
At least in my experience, praise and treats are enough to make grooming painless.
Gentle Leader's "Easy Walk" works great for my large boxer. Connects at the chest, so if he tries to pull, it just turns him around, he effectively stops himself. Under $20. Doesn't "squeeze" the chest.
http://www.amazon.com/Premier-Harness-Large-Black-Silver/dp/B0009ZBKG4/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1343305037&sr=1-4&keywords=Gentle+Leader
Have you looked into a training class? There are many trainers that have classes on mannered walking. Look into positive reinforcement trainers!
Basically you'll want to stop/even turn around every time your dog pulls. Reward the dog for walking next to you. It doesn't take long for them to realize what you want. Read more about loose lead walking.
Equipment is very important -- we use an Easy Walk Harness (you only want front clip harnesses! Back clip harnesses make pulling worse). Also purchase a Matingale Collar. The most secure you can be is to clip the front clip of the harness to the loop of the martingale collar.
Another alternative is to use a Head Halter (halti or gentle leader). When the dog pulls forward the equipment redirects their head so they'll basically turn back.
Harnesses and head halters are the most humane methods you can use. They'll give you added control until the training piece catches up!
​
Best of luck!
Sounds like the Easy Walk harness. I use it as well and once you figure it out it's easy to slip on and off. You can also flip it around if you need the hook in the back for some reason (say in the car).
​
https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Harness-Large-BLACK-SILVER/dp/B0009ZBKG4/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3TWSP09A2CF71&keywords=easy+walk+harness&qid=1555081978&s=gateway&sprefix=easy+walk%2Caps%2C132&sr=8-3
http://www.amazon.com/pet-supplies/dp/B0009ZBKG4
My guy has one of these. He's a big puller and this is the only thing that has a chance at stopping him.
Hey this might help you:
SmartPetLove Snuggle Puppy Behavioral Aid Toy, Brown Mutt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C9YHFS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HfAlDbXZDAV21
I have a 7 week old Goldendoodle and bought a SmartPet Suggle Puppy (Smart Pet Love Snuggle Puppy Behavioral Aid Toy, Brown Mutt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C9YHFS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LDuExb6FDJ7J1). They have a heartbeat and a place for a warming pack, really helped my little guy I think. He snuggles with it every night and seems to love it. It was expensive, but I feel it was worth the splurge!
I did towels in the crate since I worried about potty training, but my guy has been awesome and had no accidents. Just make sure to take them out often (I do every hour when he's awake!) and take away food/water at least an hour before bed.
Good luck!! Stay patient with crate training, it's been my biggest obstacle so far.
Have you thought of getting a snuggle puppy? It is a plush toy with a battery powered heart beat inside it. The sound combined with the plush toy are supposed to mimic another puppy or mom they can snuggle up against to reduce anxiety.
There is already a lot of good advice in this thread. Don't give in, feed her meals in her crate, etc. But here is something else you can try as well.
Before I got my puppy, I was browsing this sub and someone recommended this behavioral aid toy.
I ordered it and I think it worked great. At the very least, it made me feel better about tearing her away from her mom and litter mates! I used the heart ticker for a long time afterwards too just to calm her down for sleep time.
A MUTE BUTTON
Ok, but seriously...It's expensive, but I've heard of some breeders sending this home with their puppies. I bought one myself and left it with the breeder during our last visit before pick up so she could let the puppies play with an sufficiently rub their smells all over it (which resulted in us getting a photo of our puppy snuggled up to it a few hours later). It's a great transitional device for them leaving the litter.
Something I do with all my dogs, and maybe something that would be nifty from a breeder, is having a binder with important information pertaining to the dogs, and dividers for different categories. I keep their health records in there, the 3 page document with information we get when I bring them home, registration paperwork, print outs from class, certificates, etc. I think getting a binder to neatly store all important information on my dog is very useful, and getting one from the breeder with suggestions on training, expected puppy behavior, etc. would be pretty useful.
But really, I've never had a lot sent home with me after getting dogs, beyond a gallon bag of food to transition with and a toy that smells like mom.
I got a stuffed toy with a heartbeat:
https://www.amazon.com/SmartPetLove-Snuggle-Puppy-Behavioral-Brown/dp/B000C9YHFS
She just snuggles with it when we go to sleep... Well until the time she destroyed it! But at that point she didn't really have the separation anxiety anymore.
If you can't get it or its too expensive you can DIY with a stuffed toy and an old times alarm clock... Just any watch or clock with a strong tick.
Never used the heatpack though
https://www.amazon.ca/SmartPetLove-Snuggle-Puppy-Behavioral-Brown/dp/B000C9YHFS
Nothing wrong with laying next to the crate, but if he's coming from a situation where he was with a lot of other dogs, this might be a good tool for you. If that's too expensive and he's small enough, this should be sufficient and it's a lot cheaper. Our dog had the same issues, but the latter option was much too small for her. I hope that helps. :-)
For the first while you should sleep with her in same room or area.
At night have her on a potty schedule, set an alarm and get up and wake her up to take her out before she cries to ask to go. Do not let her associate crying with you taking her out of the crate. Assuming your pup is 8 weeks - you should be taking her out at least twice overnight - example - 11:00 pm bedtime potty break - set alarm for 1:30 am potty break, set alarm for 3:30/4:00 am potty break; up around 6:30 am. As she gets older you will be able to spread out and eventually eliminate the nighttime breaks. The important thing is you get her out before she asks. When you take her out, do not speak to her a lot, just be very quiet and soothing and tell her to do her business. When she is done give her a treat pick her up and put her back in crate quickly and quietly. She needs to learn night time is not play time or fun time. I would not leave a lot of toys in her crate during the night for playing.
For at night, you may want to try one of those stuffed dogs that has a heartbeat https://www.amazon.ca/SmartPetLove-Snuggle-Puppy-Behavioral-Brown/dp/B000C9YHFS
We got a snuggle puppy for our 11 week puppy and it has been a life saver!! You can find them on Amazon - Smart Pet Love Snuggle Puppy Behavioral Aid Toy, Brown Mutt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C9YHFS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AYGyybQW2BN5X
Has a heart beat in it and heating pad that will make him feel like he's with his litter mates. We used the heating pads at first but found them unnecessary and expensive to use on a daily basis since you would have to buy replacements often but may be good for such a young puppy to have the heat aspect as well. Recommend watching him with it first because there is velcro at the bottom to get where the fake heart it is so just make sure he can't chew it. Our puppy treat his like his littermate and loves it.
https://www.amazon.com/SmartPetLove-Snuggle-Puppy-Behavioral-Brown/dp/B000C9YHFS/ref=asc_df_B000C9YHFS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198076665015&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15468377802100250732&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9002296&hvtargid=aud-643565131866:pla-352722601139&psc=1
Best purchase I ever made.
OMG. so cute. Something like this may also be comforting. I am getting one for my golden when she comes home.
He's a baby - the crying is normal, the first week or 2 you can expect crying as he gets used to the crate. It took my girl about a week before she stopped crying in it. I also bought a sound machine off Amazon for cheap that I put on loud so she doesn't hear noises and get distracted and cry.
The toy was not the cheapest, but it works great. Here it is: https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Pet-Love-Snuggle-Behavioral/dp/B000C9YHFS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526918487&sr=8-3&keywords=puppy+toy+heart
Sure! http://m.imgur.com/gallery/YIVgM
If you're finding it difficult to get through the night, this helped us a lot. It's a toy dog with a heartbeat and you can add heat pads as well. It kind of feels like another puppy, which reminds them of their littermates. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000C9YHFS/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
If it's a recurring problem, arm yourself
To avoid contact with unleashed dogs, another option is a sonic alarm... some recommend an air horn, I use an ultrasonic deterrent. Range depends on local echoes... close range on open grass, larger range around concrete, pane glass, parked cars. Doesn't stun or hurt the dogs, just entices them to stop and figure out the sudden sound.
Best tactic for protection may be to avoid attracting their interest... "stand like a tree," interpose objects, no shouting, no direct eye contact.
A few years SF Animal Control estimated 120,000 dogs in city, only about 16% having the required dog license & shots... probably higher now.
DAZER II ULTRASONIC DOG DETERRENT
this thing works on about 75% of the dogs from my experience (usually the bigger breads) https://www.amazon.com/Dog-Dazer-II-Ultrasonic-Deterrent/dp/B000IBRI2Y
A good many people are stating pepper spray. This can get you into trouble, should the other dogs owner see you spraying them down. Also, depending on wind directions, it can come straight back into your own faces. Not a pleasant feeling, I assure you.
Go out to the store, and get yourself a nice, shiny police style whistle (remember the ones you used to see in P.E.). Blow that thing loud enough, and immediately. More often than not, the other dogs won't know what the hell it was.
I'm not saying 'don't bring pepper spray'. I'm saying that if you do, be really aware of how you use it.
You could also go the ultrasonic route, but this might affect your dog as well. It would seem that no matter what you do, it will end up affecting your own dog as well. Until now.
A pet safe, directed spray, attack deterrent. Good luck.
We have this one: https://www.amazon.com/Carlson-Extra-Through-Small-37-Inches/dp/B000JJDI0G
We use it at the top of our basement stairs so kitties can get to their litter boxes and baby is locked out. Sturdy and easy to operate.
I like this kind:
https://www.amazon.com/Carlson-Extra-Wide-Through-44-Inch/dp/B000JJDI0G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465859911&sr=8-1&keywords=pet+barrier+with+door
You can
screw in these cup things to the door for more strength or you can just use a good amount of pressure to keep them up. My cats like to launch themselves over the gate and just using pressure is enough. Plus, I don't have to keep putting them up and taking them down.
Cats will just jump over but they do make gates with a small pet door at the bottom. Check here
We use this one at the top of our stairs and have for several years. I am not sure if it is technically supposed to be for the top of stairs but we have a very insistent, 40-pound toddler and the gate has held strong without budging.
http://www.amazon.com/Carlson-0930PW-Extra-Wide-Walk-Thru-White/dp/B000JJDI0G/ref=sr_sp-atf_title_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394060936&sr=8-1&keywords=carlson+extra+wide+pet
My sister in law has a newfoundland and a big old lovable mutt in her house, and to allow the cat access throughout the house she installed these baby gates.
http://www.amazon.com/Carlson-0930PW-Extra-Wide-Walk-Thru-White/dp/B000JJDI0G
As for DIY'ing it, if the cats still have all their claws, I would just drape some remnant carpet over it and tether it to the gate. Its amazing how well our geriatric cat has shredded anything permeable that she wants to climb that we haven't put a cat ladder on. We are such obedient servants to our master...
Poop, this is the one I was talking about but it’s pressure mount not hardware
Carlson Extra Wide Walk Through Pet Gate with Small Pet Door, 37-Inches Wide https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JJDI0G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CUCLAbQSNH86F
With the cat issue you can fix it by getting a baby gate with a pet door.
http://www.amazon.com/Carlson-0930PW-Extra-Wide-Walk-Thru-White/dp/B000JJDI0G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416675551&sr=8-1&keywords=baby+gate+with+pet+door
Here it is on Amazon.
I have a Golden Retriever puppy, Summit (8 months old tomorrow, he came home at 8 weeks old) and an indoor-only cat, Sprocket (1 year old). The big thing is to be patient and monitor all interactions.
Our cat is very tolerant and go-with-the-flow. He has never hissed or clawed at the dog. Thee was one time the dog did get too rough with him, and the cat meowed loudly for help, but never fought back (which in a way, makes things harder for our situation). Our dog is extremely playful and although he doesn't mean to harm that cat and just wants to play, he doesn't understand that the cat is too little, is not a dog, and cannot be a wrestling buddy.
Tips
Additional Tips for living with a puppy and a cat
I have a setup very similar to what you are describing for Scooter. He may not be too old (13 yrs) but he is FIV+ so I could lose him at any time. I have a small table set in front of the windows in my BR. I put a queen comforter folded in 8ths (read: nice and fluffy) on top of it. When it is cold out, I put this under the top layer. Since he is tripawd (missing left rear leg), I do have kitty stairs next to the table so he can get up and down on his own.
As for the sterile room, I say open the room to him. He may not even like it but if he does and he spends his final days happily basking in the sun and watching the birds on a warm comfy blanket, knowing that you were able to do that for him will be the best feeling ever. If you want to make his last weeks, months, years the best possible, make him priority. They were always here for us when we needed them so as they age we need to be there for them. As for the dogs? Get one of those pet gates with a cat access door.
We have this one, and it's been fine. It's a bear to install, and looks like it's broken until you fully install it, but it works fine
https://www.amazon.com/Carlson-Extra-Through-Small-37-Inches/dp/B000JJDI0G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521214914&sr=8-1&keywords=Carlson+Extra+Wide+Walk+Through+Pet+Gate+with+Small+Pet+Door%2C+37-Inches+Wide&dpID=41MwdfznzDL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
This is the type we have and while our dogs (26 and 40lbs) can fit through the door, only our kitten can fit through the bars, making the other side a kitten only safe spot. Plus it is on super sale right now!
Bringing a new puppy home to your cats is a lot easier than one might think!
We recently "fostered" a puppy for 3-4 days. Our three cats (aged 2-3 yrs) have NEVER been in contact with a dog. Ever.
We read a lot of stuff, and the best way to go about this is...
Gates. Invest in gates. We bought 3 of these which worked wonders. Obviously depending on the size of the puppy, he/she might be able to fit through the cat door at first. But our cats were more than comfortable jumping over them to escape from the puppy.
The most important thing is to give your cats space. They need 1-2 "safe" rooms. They need a place to escape from the puppy after their few minutes of contact with the new puppy. This is so important, because your home IS your cats home. It's where they feel safe!
Also, I don't know how your cats feel about squeaky toys... but our cats HATE the noise. Try to ease the puppy onto squeaky toys (if you want). The more squeaking the puppy does with the toys, the more the cats might become frightened of the puppy. Squeaky toys are so fun for dogs because the squeaker imitates an animal (they squeak it, it's like them 'squeaking' a small animal of sorts... hence they LOVE them). If the cats hear the noise and see the puppy shaking it around, they might become more stressed out.
Edit: Forgot some other important things...
Keep your cat's nails trimmed as well. There is guaranteed to be a LOT of swiping. The puppy will realize what's going on, and will want to play with the cat. So just be cautious!
Also, do NOT hold a cat and walk them towards the dog. Do not in ANY way force them to go near the dog. If one of the cats gets scared and comes towards you to be picked up, pick them up and walk them to one of the gated off rooms. (I don't know if other cats do this or not... but my cats are literally like dogs) You need to let your cats be the curious kitties that they are. No matter how long it takes, the kitties will learn to love and care for the puppy. Just remember... Some dogs remain "puppies" for over 2 years (personality-wise). So... prepare yourself!
Good luck, if you have any questions - feel free to ask!!
Edit #2: If you can deal with a puppy (~6 months or younger), I personally think it's the way to go. Even if you're looking to get a BIG (70+ lb) dog, they start out at about 20lbs at ~12 weeks. The smaller the dog is when you bring him/her home, the more relaxed your cats will be. If you bring home a HUGE dog (no matter how sweet), I think your cats might be more frightened. In my personal opinion it's best to get a puppy that the cats can get used to while they're relatively still small in size. Oh, and the puppy will get used to the cats. Puppies will generally NOT care. But when you're adopting, be sure that the foster parents/rescue lets you know how they are with kitties. Generally most puppies are fine with cats though!
Sorry for rambling... I keep thinking of more things!
Here ya go!
Bummer. I wonder if it would make any difference if you put something draped over the gate (like a towel or something) so he couldn't see through to the other side. Sometimes out of sight/out of mind works.
Not sure if this will help your situation at all, but I got this as a barrier between my living room and kitchen area (where I have all my cats' food). It keeps the dogs out but lets the kitties through.
Best of luck, I know how extremely frustrating it can be when your dog is getting into things s/he isn't supposed to have.
sorry - totally spaced on this!!
this is my personal favorite, but we also rotate between the following:
kibble nibble
tug a jug - but we removed the rope
buster cube - this one is pretty tricky and may frustrate pups new to feeding from a meal dispensing toy
We have a tug-a-jug feeder
My 50lb shepherd loves it
PetSafe Busy Buddy Tug-A-Jug Meal Dispensing Dog Toy, Medium/Large by Petsafe Premier http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KV7ZGQ/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_VQuftb1JHFVRT
There are plenty of ways to keep your dog occupied during the day. Adults at least; puppies require a lot more attention.
Kongs (which I swear really are dog toys, despite what they look like) can be filled with any number of treats like plain low-fat Greek yogurt, peanut butter, low-fat cream cheese, no-salt broth, wet food, pureed sweet potato, and more... and frozen to make the treat last longer.
Other treat dispensing toys like the Tug-A-Jug. The idea in both of these cases is to make getting their breakfast take up time and present a challenge.
And of course, it always helps to exercise them and give them short training sessions in the morning before you go so that once you leave (with a treat, so your departure is a positive thing), they're in for a nice long nap until you get back. A well-exercised/trained dog is a happy dog, and one that's much less prone to destroy your house or terrorize other people/animals. If you do get a dog, make sure you look into breeds that are known for having an energy level that fits what you're willing to offer!
Some folks crate train (and play crate games along with or as their training sessions), but I've found that the more settled my dog gets, the less he needs a crate. It's safe for him to roam part of the house.
Other people take their dogs to daycare (which sounds silly, but a good daycare with the right dog can be great for play and socialization) or hire a dog walker to come by during their work shift.
Sure!
The Buster Cube (I have this) is an awesome puzzle toy (this is the "large" version, be sure to check sizes). This is a little bit more difficult to use, as the hole that spits out the food is pretty small, and as the kibble gets to be lesser and lesser inside of the Cube, it's harder to get it out. It's cube-shaped (obviously), so pushing it around isn't all that easy, and your dog needs to be firm with it in order to get the food out. This isn't a good toy for linoleum, or hardwood - it's really only good on carpet.
The IQ Ball is awesome too! It is adjustable, which is cool, so you can make it easy at first, and more challenging as your pup gets better and better at it. This is probably a better choice for tile, linoleum, hardwood, etc.
The Bob-A-Lot is another good one. It's more challenging than the Kong Wobbler (again, check the size, I believe this one is a "large").
I also have this Busy Buddy toy for my dog. It's really really challenging for her. The rope has to go inside of it, and then the dog has to pull it out in order to get the food out. This one takes a bit of effort on your part, unless you think your pup can figure out how to push the rope in and then pull it out again.
There are also plenty of food dispensing toys like this one that force your dog to move "puzzle" pieces around to get the food underneath them!
Lots of options!
We have the tug a jug for our dog ----- which, won't crinkle or tumble like a soda bottle (it's hard plastic), but it's the same size and shape, and they're great for kibble or treats to keep them busy.
Different than what you were asking, but first thing that came to mind lol.
Yep we have this one, this one, and this one. She always gets meals in one of those, or mixed with yogurt and frozen in a Kong, or I'll give it to her a few pieces at a time while doing tricks. Never just in a bowl. And we do scent work and tons of tricks. I think a lot of the problem is just that she's so freaking smart. Sitting there chewing a bone doesn't do it for her the way it does for a lot of dogs, she really needs to always be actively mentally engaged. I'm happy to do scent work with her for 20-30 minutes, and teach her a new trick every few days and run through all her old tricks, but I can't spend literally the whole day giving her mind something to do, so she gets bored and starts with the whining/pacing/pawing at me. I think I could get away with just a run a day if I could think of enough stuff to engage her mind, I'm just out of ideas! So we go walk for an hour, so she has new things to sniff and explore.
Like this dog plots things out. Once she saw I'd left the dog gate to the "cat's room" (where his food and litter are) open and she had a chance to go eat his food. She came back to the room I was in, watched me a little, then picked up her ball and threw it under the couch. I went down to get it as I always do, and while I was digging around under there she ran and ate the cat's food. That's so many steps of thinking for a dog. "Hm, I can get to the food. But if I just go for it she'll hear me and come stop me. I need to distract her. It always takes her a minute to get my ball out when I lose it under the couch. I'll put my ball really far under the couch so I have plenty of time to dash off and scarf down the cat food." That's just one example, it's amazing how much stuff she has figured out and how far ahead she can think to get around the rules and get what she wants.
> I just switched to part time work while going to school to become a dog trainer.
I would use this time to teach your dog some REALLY cool tricks from the couch!
Also, I read you have some treat balls - have you tried this treat ball? my dog finds this one the hardest, along with this one.
Get well soon!
I agree with mental stimulation. I'm always home with my corgi and give him lots of exercise and socialization outside but he loves food toys for mental stimulation and it makes his meals last so much longer.
We use these for kibble: http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Buddy-Tug-A-Jug-Dispensing-Medium/dp/B000KV7ZGQ
http://www.amazon.com/StarMark-Bob-A-Lot-Interactive-Pet-Large/dp/B001JQLNB4
http://www.amazon.com/Buster-Food-Cube-Large-Colors/dp/B0006G54OU/ref=pd_sim_199_6?ie=UTF8&dpID=41NL87Y8KbL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1N6FCHDFXGVVTQFF7HAG
and we use these for treats:
http://www.petsmart.com/dog/toys/martha-stewart-pets-treat-dispensing-bone-dog-toy-zid36-19474/cat-36-catid-100118
http://www.fordogtrainers.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=5245
http://www.amazon.com/Starmark-Treat-Dispensing-Jack-Medium/dp/B00L61279E
I use the Bob-a-Lot (linked above), the Tug-a-Jug and the Buster Cube.
They are all fairly loud, but keep him occupied for a while. I switch them out daily so he doesn't get bored with one.
You've gotten a lot of good opinions, I'll throw mine in for fun :-)
First. I think you're a good dog owner and I think you can make this work.
Many people have suggested a dog walker - I think that is a great idea. I have a coworker who has a dog walker who gathers up a few dogs from his neighborhood, drives them to a park and they have 3+ hour adventures! Plus they get to spend some time riding around to pick up and drop off the other dogs, I think it really fills their dogs day. My coworker does this M-F but even one day a week would be awesome.
Second. Work his brain. I'd start feeding all his meals in a food dispensing toy he enjoys. I used all of the ones I'll link below either for the dogs I work with or my pets.
[Bob-a-lot] (http://www.amazon.com/StarMark-Bob-A-Lot-Interactive-Pet-Large/dp/B001JQLNB4) This one is pretty tough and can be left alone with some dogs
[Tug-a-Jug] (http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Buddy-Dispensing-Medium-Large/dp/B000KV7ZGQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1426890582&sr=1-1&keywords=food+dispensing+bottle+rope+toy) This one can be dangerous if they eat the 'rope' but I love how ease it is to fill.
[Tricky Treat Ball] (http://www.amazon.com/Omega-Paw-Tricky-Treat-Large/dp/B0002DK26M/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1426890517&sr=1-3&keywords=food+dispensing+dog+toy) This one takes my dog FOREVER but holds her interest well. The plastic is really soft so I supervise her using it (while I watch TV or brush my teeth) so she doesn't just lay down and chew at it to get her food. The other thing I like about the soft plastic/rubber is that it is pretty quiet for her to use unlike the other options I've listed.
[Buster Cube] (http://www.amazon.com/Buster-Food-Cube-Large-Colors/dp/B0006G54OU/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1426890999&sr=8-9&keywords=food+dispensing+dog+toy) Not sure if the buster cube was the first of the roll around style food dispensers but it was the only one I knew about for a long time. They're pretty sturdy and challenging.
There are a LOT more food dispensing toys out there but I think the ones they have to move can be a little more exciting than a tightly packed kong they lick at. Kongs are great too, I'd just include them in a rotation of feeding devices.
Another thing you can do to make life more exciting for your dog is to rotate toys. If he has a lot of toys only leave out 2 or 3 on a given day and swap them out for toys you've kept hidden and occasionally introduce a new toy. Some dogs really love novelty.
Finally I think trick training is great. A few 5 minute sessions a day of learning a new behavior, or building on an existing behavior is a great way to beat the boredom.
Some fun tricks you can teach that you can use to make really complex behaviors are take it (hold in mouth), paw target (touch with foot) and nose target (touch with nose). You can use those behaviors along with others tricks to teach him to close doors, open doors, turn lights on and off, put things away, cross his legs, ring a bell, limp, pretend to pee (targeting with a back foot) etc.
Lastly, I'd teach him to search for hidden items in your house. I like to hide something while my dog is out going potty, then watch her search for it while I brush my teeth.
Hope those ideas for easy entertainment help some! Keep the dog, do what you can, you're doing SO MUCH MORE than so many dog owners already. I think he'd be fine if you kept him and just did what you're doing now. :-)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KV7ZGQ?pc_redir=1396769958&robot_redir=1
If food is a motivator this might work. My pup loves it!
I have a pup who occasionally gets in a picky mood so I got one of these wobbler feeding balls to mix up his mealtime routine.
If he still seems disinterested, sometimes I throw in one or two pieces of a small treat that I know he will smell and go after. It's a lot of fun to watch, too!
Edit to add: Since you mentioned that she sometimes eats it when scattered on the floor... have you looked into a Snuffle mat? They are basically small fringed rugs that the food "hides" in and they have to sniff it out.
We have one of these and our dogs love it! I put kibble in it and they'll roll it around for hours, even after all the kibble has been dispensed (hoping that more will suddenly appear!).
Oh no! Have you considered getting the dog a bowl that uses an RFID chip reader? The one I’ve heard of is called “SureFeed” but I’m sure there are others! It would keep the kitties out of his food :)
https://www.amazon.com/SureFlap-5060180391324-SureFeed-Microchip-Feeder/dp/B00O0UIPTY
They make a food bowl for this exact reason. This basically only lets one pet into the designated bowl. SureFlap Bowl Amazon Link
They have cat bowls that respond to collars on the cats and only open for those cats. Let me see if I can find a link.
https://www.amazon.com/SureFlap-5060180391324-SureFeed-Microchip-Feeder/dp/B00O0UIPTY/ref=pd_sim_199_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00O0UIPTY&pd_rd_r=V4TQTBM8JNVMGJC7KE7A&pd_rd_w=rx1WV&pd_rd_wg=Secq1&psc=1&refRID=V4TQTBM8JNVMGJC7KE7A
I think this is the one I saw online. Hella expensive but if you don't mind dropping the cash I bet this would be a helpful solution. I've always wanted to get these because our dog eats the cats food, so we have to feed them on the kitchen table, but this is too much money for my taste.
Image: Pixie is confused about why she can't get into her sister Trixie's bowl any more!
 
For years, I've used the PetSafe automatic feeder to dispense kibble, because my last cat was a food-obsessed only cat and this was the only way to keep him from begging incessantly. When he passed away and I adopted new kitties last year, I continued using the same automatic feeder as they had no complaints about sharing a bowl. Unfortunately, it turns out that one of them will often not eat her share of kibble, and her sister will happily eat the extra, so a weight problem was developing. Enter the SureFeed Microchip feeder. I had been looking for options and ran across a mention of this here on Reddit, and as it will actually read an implanted microchip instead of requiring a collar, it seemed perfect for my needs, although pricey.
 
I ordered two feeders in early February, expecting to be able to start training the kitties right away. Unfortunately, I missed the teeny, tiny "batteries not included" note on the order page, and so due to weather issues and multiple Amazon delivery failures, it took nearly two weeks to get enough batteries for both feeders (I had enough for one but not both.) In the meantime, however, I decided to set the feeders up with the lid open, and at least start getting the kitties used to the new contraption. Fortunately, since they have a self-cleaning litter box and were eating from an automatic feeder, they're already used to small mechanical noises and just needed to get used to the new bowls.
 
The first thing I did was take the automatic feeder and large shared bowl out, then put the feeder contraptions in the same place inside the cabinet where the kitties eat. I opened the lids on both feeders, and set the bowls in front of them so the kitties could have a new bowl without having to stick their head into the smaller confined space at first. Once they got used to the bowls, I put the bowls in the feeders and left them with the lid open for another week. During this week, I would occasionally call the kitties over, and push the open/close button on the feeder with batteries to show the mechanism without having it be in the way of eating. Lots of "check this out, isn't it cool!" positive encouragement while doing so. Luckily my kitties are young, curious, and fascinated by movement so they got used to it pretty quickly.
 
After three weeks of eating in open feeders, yesterday I finally programmed each feeder to read the microchip from one cat. Luring the cats through the hoop was no problem, a couple of favorite crunchy treats dropped in their bowl did the trick for that. Then once the feeder was programmed and the lid closed, another round with crunchy treats to lure them through and show them that it would open for them when they moved their head through.
 
The first couple of hours with programmed feeders was a little bit dicey, mostly because extra-eating kitty was quite confused about why she could no longer eat from her sister's bowl, and also slightly worried about the bright green light reflecting behind the open lid of her feeder. A couple of times sitting with her an re-assuring her while she approached the feeder and ate took care of that, along with setting the lid to the maximum slow-close duration so she had enough time to approach, open, contemplate, and get comfortable to eat.
 
The biggest problem mentioned in the reviews is the ability for a second kitty to come over the open back of a feeder and steal food while the "authorized" kitty eats. Luckily mine aren't at the food-stealing stage yet, but now that I don't need a cabinet large enough to handle the automatic feeder, I'll be moving the microchip feeders into a small Kallax cube shelf so each kitty is in a walled-off section that her sister can't invade. Bonus for being able to store the kibble and supplies in the upper sections of the shelf. There is also a back cover available for sale for the feeder, although apparently they can't manage to keep that in stock as it keeps going "unavailable" on Amazon. The only other change I need is to order a second set of the stainless steel bowls for the feeder, the included bowls are plastic and based on past experience, plastic bowls often cause chin acne in cats. I'd prefer ceramic over stainless, but so far I can't find the right size/shape of ceramic bowl to use with it.
 
Overall, a pricey option for multiple kitties, but worth it to be able to control feeding portions without having to separate kitties or add more daily feedings or other sort of crazy additions to daily life. Open feeders twice per day, add appropriate amount of kibble, and done. (Supplemented with wet food, which is a whoooooooole other thing. Note, though, that the lid on this feeder closes well enough it could support feeding wet food instead of kibble if needed. )
/u/bakingbink we have the same problem in our house. It’s even more important as each cat gets different drugs each feeding. You might want to consider sure flap feeders (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O0UIPTY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_K.d3BbWP01MBJ) to give each cat the appropriate “security clearance” for their food.
You might want to modify this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O0UIPTY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_xCk3DbS7MK15Q
It's definitely something to consider. Microchip feeders are amazing to have for situations like yours. You can buy one that only your slower-eating cat can get into, so she can graze whenever she wants and your bigger guy can't get into it.
After resisting for ages due to the price i finally gave in and got one of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00O0UIPTY/
Totally worth it. The healthy cat eats fast and finishes his food so luckily i only need one (to stop him stealing the prescription food), but having used it i now think if needed i would happily bite the bullet and put a second one on my credit card. Not only does it keep other pets out, it keeps wet food fresh for longer which means the little parient is eating more of it and doing noticeably better.
On the same note, I use a seat belt leash. Definitely a cheaper alternative.
I've been using one for a year and have had no issues. My Golden doesn't have access to the front of the car, but has just enough reach to stick his nose out the window ;)
I have thought about this same scenario. While Louie can't get to the front, I know he will bark like crazy (he's territorial and protective like that, with a damn intimidating bark.) That will definitely scare the cop, so I'm really hoping I never run into this situation.
Or even https://www.amazon.com/Pet-Hub-Adjustable-Safety-Leads/dp/B005U7ONFG/ref=pd_lpo_199_lp_t_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Y13HESEQ32YZ0Q446JTY which is $2
or
this https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Adjustable-Vehicle-Seatbelt-Harness/dp/B014W40TSW/ref=pd_lpo_199_bs_t_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Y13HESEQ32YZ0Q446JTY for $8.
Hi there! My dog has a very similar attitude regarding car rides- she thinks they’re sketchy at best. At this point, we’ve done a 9 hour car ride together, and a week from today we’ll start a cross country move that’ll total around 35 hours of driving. Here are my tips!
I hope this helps!! If you have any questions or need clarification let me know!
This is what we use: https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Adjustable-Vehicle-Seatbelt-Harness/dp/B014W40TSW/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=puppy+seatbelt&qid=1564084399&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Attached to her harness. 4 mo goldendoodle, she likes it fine!
we got these for my boy. they are adjustable so you can make it loose enough so they can stand but not move too far.
Vastar 2 Packs Adjustable Pet Dog Cat Car Seat Belt Safety Leads Vehicle Seatbelt Harness, Made from Nylon Fabric
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014W40TSW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_t1qEAbKFASFJ3
I use a full size dog cage if I'm going anywhere decently far, along with ratchet straps to tie that down via the cargo hooks. My dogs are 65 and 50 lbs (Labrador and some vaguely Shepherd looking thing that isn't a Shepherd).
For short trips, I have a harness that clips directly into the seatbelt. I changed my rear seat buckles to be independent of the seat back, and flip the seat back up... buckle stays down on the ground, and I clip the dogs in their harness to that. With them standing on the floor they can't get up high enough to get into anything. Once in a very blue moon they'll manage to knock the metal bar of the rear seat over, and the seat will come down on them, but that's still pretty rare.
The seat buckle part is similar to this https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Adjustable-Vehicle-Seatbelt-Harness/dp/B014W40TSW
You may need one of those plastic buckle covers that are usually used to keep kids from playing with their seatbelts, depends on their activity level.
Once you find a harness, put him in a seat belt buckle too. I got one of these for my dog https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Adjustable-Vehicle-Seatbelt-Harness/dp/B014W40TSW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498398718&sr=8-3&keywords=seatbelt+buckle
I bought mine at the Nissan dealership but it looks similar to this (see link below) it hooks to their harness.
Vastar 2 Packs Adjustable Pet Dog Cat Car Seat Belt Safety Leads Vehicle Seatbelt Harness, Made from Nylon Fabric https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014W40TSW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BOw7Cb0HYCXN1
I've used similar products and attach to the back fo their harness
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014W40TSW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MEy1CbFBTBQE9
There are seat belts you can get for dogs relatively cheap!
Edit
Vastar 2 Packs Adjustable Pet Dog Cat Car Seat Belt Safety Leads Vehicle Seatbelt Harness, Made from Nylon Fabric https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014W40TSW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4QU-ybJ29EY8F
This is the restraint we use. With sometime four in the car, this is quick and easy to put on them.
Thanks for the compliment!
The harness we have has a loop at the middle of her back so you can thread a seatbelt through. She can move around fairly well on the side of the car she’s buckled on, though she will occasionally get a bit tangled up. It doesn’t happen that often though because she actually prefers to lay down most of the time during car rides.
From my understanding (knowledge my girlfriend has passed onto me) the purpose of buckling them in serves a few purposes, most common being to keep them from trying to climb up to the front of the car or falling off the seat while we are driving. Secondly, though a bit morbid, it serves to prevent your pet from turning into a projectile in the event of an accident. An unsecured animal can seriously injury or kill other occupants of the vehicle if they are not secured in the event of a crash.
We use the harness we have because we already had it, though there are other options. Such as Seat Belt Leads which buckle into any buckle and thank attach to your dogs harness or collar like a regular leash.
I use these.
Amazon Link
I use them with my 40lb Pit mix in her Blueberry harness.
To my knowledge they aren't "crash certified" but they clip into the seatbelt receiver and lock. Definitely better than nothing and I think they will do a fine job if ever needed.
Hey Amelia, I'm Tina welcome to raoa! I was a Nanny for a few years as well and miss it, but my family moved across country! How old are the children you take care of? Cool intro and contest idea- you've already hopped into a great start in the community!
Here are 5 things that would greatly help me:
1- LED dog collar. My boyfriend and I take our dogs down to the field and let them run away, but we lose them sometimes cause they get excited hearing a bird. We have one collar already but they never run in the same direction, so having another would be great.
2- Dog Car Seatbelt clip. Another item for my rambunctious pups who enjoy car rides like it's no one's business. Sometimes they get in our face or want to be on our lap and it's distracting and I'm afraid of it causing an accident but there's currently no way to keep them secluded to the back.
3- This puzzle book. I love mazes, sudoku, and puzzles to keep my brain working haha
4- Pop Socket for my phone. I'm quite clumsy and drop my phone pretty often. Plus, it's mermaid!
5- Sloth Skirt. I love wearing skirts and feeling pretty, plus it's got sloths all over it!
I'm gonna nominate /u/LaLocaChristina because she's been here and always contributes positivity and is very generous when gifting. She's also taking a big leap and moving so this could lift her spirits if she needs it because I'm pretty sure everyone could agree that moving can be stressful!
I recommend this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B014W40TSW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Goes into the seatbelt thing and attaches to a dog's harness.
You can try something like this. It'll block out some sun/heat/mosquitos/etc and let you keep the windows down. You just slide em on over the door.
I would also suggest some sort of seat belt. These buckle into a normal seat belt on one end and the other end you attach to a harness (do NOT attach it to a collar unless you want a dead/severely injured dog if you get into an accident or need to hit the brakes hard).
I use this in the rear of my 4Runner. Not this exact one. But it’s but this hammock style. The one I got was from petco and cost about $60. I’ve had it a year and it’s held up really well. Waterproof, machine washable etc
I’d recommend this hammock style
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07546Y6TB/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1523637118&sr=8-8&keywords=dog+car+hammock+seat+cover&dpPl=1&dpID=41j7KySDBxL&ref=plSrch
In conjunction with the hammock style cover. Get these seat belts. They will hook to your existing harnesses and clip right into your car seat buckles. No additional fuss required. Super simple. You can tighten or loosen the slack depending on how much movement you want to give the dog.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014W40TSW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1523637363&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=dog+seat+belts&psc=1
I know these exact seat Belts work because I had the unfortunate pleasure of having them tested. A guy ran a red light and hit the front side of my 4Runner at 55mph. The hammock style cover and having him seat belted with those belts in harness kept him completely uninjured! He was scared and shaken up. But completely healthy. No sprang, cuts, bruises etc.
Hope this helps.
Great build! Question about traveling with pets. We always have harnesses on our dogs and use a dog seat belt. I noticed you had your dogs just sitting on the cushion. Have you ever thought about dog seat belts?
If you really want to know, then maybe this can help you: https://www.amazon.com/Mars-Veterinary-Wisdom-Panel-Identification/dp/B01EHX2BH0/ref=dp_ob_title_pet
It's not cheap and I've never used it but the reviews don't look bad!
They sell test at pet stores cost or online I suggest getting one will let you know what your dog almost exact makeup is.
FWIW the Wisdom Panel DNA test is (relatively) cheap, super easy and the results seemed pretty accurate.
It was one of these.
It was 72$
link if you are interested
Adorable pup. Little for a boxer but I really can't put my finger on it. I used the Mars Veterinary Wisdom Panel 3.0 Breed Identification DNA Test Kit on my pup and he came back 100% boxer as expected. You decide whether you want the test to be run for mixed-breed, designer or purebred. All of the tests include a predicted weight profile and will check for the multi-drug resistance 1 (MDR1) genetic mutation that may cause severe adverse reactions to commonly prescribed drugs. I know this sounds like an ad but I just had a friend recommend it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EHX2BH0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oiSBzbHS6RV6H
She looks almost identical to my parents dog. Black, white chest and paws. They were always told he was a lab mix, but your pup's ears look slightly different. They almost look beagley. But if you're really interested, I think you can get their dna tested to identify breed. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EHX2BH0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_M6APDbKHBGPN1
Relevant
We used this kit to have him tested. Based on his looks and personality I think it's accurate.
If you're really curious they sell DNA tests on Amazon for about $72.
$59 usd , all depends i guess
Our sammy was really expensive so compared to that jts cheap. But to each their own.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01EHX2BH0/ref=dp_ob_neva_mobile
I used a Mars 3.0 test on my mix. Told me she was 50% corgi, 25% chihuahua and 25% miniature pincher mix. Wasn't able to determine further than that.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01EHX2BH0/ref=pd_aw_sim_199_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2RD0X5XY7BAH2B2RH24B
Sorry, don't have an imgr account or anything, but here's a picture of her on Instagram I took a couple days ago, next to my 9 month corgi puppy. https://www.instagram.com/p/BNe6t1EBXS7/
if you leave it saved in your cart the wisdom panel often is a deal of the day, you'll get an email when it drops in price
found my dog which the rescue said was part Vizla is actually pure Rebone coonhound, so much for giving her a breed appropriate name of Paprika. To make it right we decided her middle name is Ann to make her a nice southern girl, Paprika Ann
https://camelcamelcamel.com/Wisdom-Identification-Canine-Genetic-Ancestry/product/B01EHX2BH0?context=search&active=amazon
I bought mine here.
https://www.amazon.com/RepRap-Champion-Carriage-Duplicator-Monoprice/dp/B01MUAMRN7/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519150264&sr=8-1&keywords=maker+select+2.1
An upgraded carriage plate is a must-have. It will help you achieve and maintain better bed leveling.
A 50mm blower fan with a printable shroud (e.g. the DiiiCooler) will make a big difference in print quality.
Beyond that, most things are luxuries or need-specific. For example, I love my Microswiss all metal hot end but you may not have any need for it.
Printed on a Maker Select V2 with the following mods:
 
Micro Swiss all metal hotend
 
Ciii cooler with radial fan
 
Z-braces
 
Upgrades Y carriage
 
Printer settings:
 
BamTack PLA
 
Hotend at 215
 
Bed at 60
 
.2 mm layer height for body and tail
 
.08 mm layer height for head
 
100% infill
 
Printed at 20 mm/s
Buy
($6)Wires:For the MOFSET mod
($1o)MOFSET
($6)Wire spades:For the MOFSET mod
($8)Assorted M3 Bolts:You need some for a few mods and for the bolts you will inevitably strip on this
cheapwonderful machine($13)Longer assorted M3 Bolts:For a few mods
($9)M4 Bolts:For one of the mods
($9)Metric allen wrench set:Had to order one of these since metric tools aren’t common round these parts
(~$20) PLA of preferred choice- You’ll run out of the sample bit quick so go ahead and order a roll or two to be prepared. You will note some upgrades require ABS so a small spool of that to your order will also help.
($6)M3 Lock nuts:Critically needed for a simple mod
($10)Threaded rod and nuts:Please note that this item seemed difficult to find online. I recommend going to your local hardware store and getting two 5/16” rods of at least 16” in length. They should have an assortment of threaded rod in various lengths available. Also note that the pitch of the threading matches the nuts you buy. Further instructions regarding this can be seen in Azza’s Z-Axis braces below.)
($6)9mm Wrench for the nozzle: Don’t wait for your first clog, go ahead and have this on hand to remove/change the nozzle. Note to only tighten/loosen the nozzle when heated.
Below is the order of printable upgrades I recommend but I suggest you mix in a few other prints along the way because this is a hobby after all and you should be having fun. It helps to have your quality as tuned in as much as possible for some of these so be patient and keep trying if you need to.
Print
Spool holder- temporary : Until you can mount your spool on top of the enclosure or any other personal preference.
Belt tensioner- print x2
Z-brace
Shielded stop button
Cable relocator : It’s a pain, but if you spend the time to do this and turn your extruder motor 90 degrees then you can get the full Z height without ruining your cables. It does involve opening all the cables to the PSU and feeding a few extra inches back through the cable chains.
Cable shroud : Looks nice if you do the cable relocator.
The following need to be printed in ABS:
M3 Bed Nut retainer: 10/10 upgrade. I know they look worse than the nice metal stock ones, but these help keep your bed level longer.
CiiCooler
Glass bed Holder
Now that the first major round of printed upgrades is done it’s time to shift to a few more supplies to pick up to really fine tune the machine.
Buy
($5)Radial fan: For CiiCooler
($5)Glue sticksThis and a glass bed is magic
($25)Borosilicate glass 8” x 8”
($26)Y-Carriage plate upgrade: This has been a nice upgrade as I now only need to relevel the bed every couple weeks instead of every print. Check out this guide for a ‘how to’ as well as a free upgrade by shifting your Y pulley over.
($15)rechargeable dehumidifier: For keeping in the bin with your opened filaments
($9)Extruder gears: Might be able to hold off on these, but will need eventually. If for some reason you have a Maker Select with metal X-axis blocks (V1 and V2, but not V2.1) then this is a must. You can follow this guide for a how to.
($28)Metal extruder plate and lever: Not needed, but nice.
($14)Noctua 40mm fan: Not needed, but makes the printer a lot quitter. A LOT quieter.
($50)MicroSwiss All Metal Hot End: The destruction of my PTFE tube by this point pushed me to doing this upgrade. If needed you can follow this guide for replacement. Remember to tighten/loosen when the nozzle its hot.
($6)Ceramic cotton: Tore off the stock one when replacing for the all metal hot end by accident. At least its thicker than stock
Now that the printer is in its final form, its time for the enclosure which is a stacked Ikea Lack hack.
Print
Spool holder
Pi Case
120mm fan cover
Fan grill
120mm fan PSU modification: I edited this to fit upside down since my PSU is mounted on the underside. This was nice since I blew the 40mm fan anyways so it made everything a lot quieter than before.
IKEA Lack filament guide
Webcam holder: This is one I designed specifically for the webcam I happen to have lying around. The camera mount piece can be changed out no problem though for what ever webcam you have or buy. The SketchUp file is included on Thingiverse for such purpose.
Buy
($20)2x Ikea Lack: Luckily there is one right down the street from me. I am located in North America though, so we do not have the STUVA, if you live literally anywhere else you may check in to this as an alternative.
($80)Plexi glass for enclosure: Could be cheaper alternatives, but it looks cool
($9)Foam pads for feet
($42)Raspberry Pi3: For OctoPrint. I also suggest using a different USB cable than the stock one provided by Monoprice or you will have issues.
($9)2x 120mm fans: Used for the power supply cooling and enclosure
($6)Rocker Switches so that the enclosure fan can be on for PLA, but off for ABS
($15)Dimmable LED lights
($10)8mm LED light connectors
Total:
$250 printer + $452 upgrades/parts + ~$80 PLA/ABS to date
My roommate and I got a Select v 2.1 a few weeks ago (most that ship out from any retailers are 2.1s now, you can tell because the bed leveling screws are thumbscrews instead of wingnuts).
Just to get it out of the way early, just print a filament guide. Enough said about that.
You're absolutely right about the z-brace, worlds of difference. We also did the z-extension, not quite as important but it gives you the full print height potential. The fan upgrade doesn't do much for PLA from what we've tested but it helps on overhangs for ABS and the type.
I've noticed ringing pretty recently, which is from the springs used for belt tensioning. You can print belt tensioners that use screws instead to help alleviate that.
Bed warping is an annoying issue as well, that'll have you leveling your print bed at least twice a week. We got a y-carriage and got a piece of glass cut 8" x 8.5" x 1/8" for a print surface, which you can just secure down with scotchblue tape. Glue stick on the glass helps with print adhesion.
And just some tips for the road: Do not underestimate the amount of bolts/nuts/screws you'll need. It'll take at least a week and a half to get all the mods you want done, and it will never feel like you're finished. Finding a cabinet or some kind of enclosure is nice if you need it in the same room as you do your daily stuff/sleep in (like if you're in a dorm). Print settings like temperature and speed do more for print quality than any mods you can find. You will fail most of your early prints while trying to find the right settings. The bearings used are kinda crap and they make a cringey crunching noise, but I'm convinced it isn't affecting the prints much, if at all.
Any other questions, feel free to ask. We don't have the most experience with it yet but we've gotten a feel for the ins and outs. Welcome to the club!
https://www.amazon.com/RepRap-Champion-Carriage-Duplicator-Monoprice/dp/B01MUAMRN7/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498322884&sr=8-1&keywords=wanhao+y+carriage
That is the carriage
This may be the next thing I look into. For the sake of killing 2 birds with one stone, it looks like [this drop in undercarriage from Amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/RepRap-Champion-Carriage-Duplicator-Monoprice/dp/B01MUAMRN7) has mounting holes that would accommodate a 3 point mounting set up (2 on the right, 1 on the left). You think it would be possible to dill a new mounting hole on the existing build plate?
https://www.amazon.com/RepRap-Champion-Carriage-Duplicator-Monoprice/dp/B01MUAMRN7/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500388304&sr=8-1&keywords=wanhao+plate
This is a good replacement
This is back in stock by the way. The below link is a newer version of the one in the original post. I just ordered one. :)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Is there any reason why you are trying to get a custom Y-plate machined? Any reason why this wouldn't work? It's a direct drop in replacement no additional holes need to be drilled.
I bought the Maker Select V2 a few weeks ago, so I'll give you a dump of what I've bought so far:
MOSFET - You'll also need some 14 gauge wire, spade connectors, and something (like velcro) to mount it inside the case.
PEI Sheet - After going through tape/hairspray/glue this is what you'll end up wishing you started with. I bought some standard window glass from a big box store and had them cut it to size. I used the thermal pads at first, but I prefer just clipping it on. This way I can have 4 different glass beds to swap among.
Raspberry Pi 3 - OctoPrint is so much nicer than transferring the sd card back and forth.
Fan - DiiCooler or CiiCooler or a few others you can print out that are compatible with this fan (I think, I haven't finished printing them yet).
Y carriage plate - Not sure what the difference between this and yours is - I haven't installed mine yet).
MicroSwiss
Also ordered a couple rolls of Inand PLA from MicroCenter online.
Not 100% sure, but seems like people need to drill new holes for the carriage you linked.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7/ref=crt_ewc_img_dp_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2YI8XQU239Q2W
I'm about to get this one though, since y'know, it has the words "Monoprice Maker Select v2.1" in the title :)
Ringing and banding is a really hard problem to fix. Ultimately, it comes down to making sure your printer is insanely rigid and its firmware settings are tuned in to fit YOUR printer.
I see you already dropped acceleration and jerk settings, which will go a long way to helping with ringing and banding. Make 100% sure your belts are tensioned well. That's the #1 key to successful prints IMO, and I see you didn't mention it here.
Consider upgrading your printer with a stronger Y carriage. Here's the one I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7
After replacing the Y carriage, make add some auto-bed leveling to your printer so that you can rigidly secure your heated bed to the Y carriage. The springs that let you level your printer now add springy-ness to the print results from the sharp movements of the very heavy Y axis moving.
The default Cartesian design's biggest flaw is the moving heat bed IMO. Its very large and very heavy, which means precise movements at high speeds is always going to be very hard.
Also, can we see some pictures? You might be where I am at this point, limited by the factors of your printers design on a mechanical level as opposed to the quality of the build and parts.
i've modded mine to try and compensate for it and still getting some issues. It could be that I just suck at leveling.
So far I've bought a thicker aluminum Y carriage plate (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), done the Z-brace mod (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:921948) and tried to make sure my X-gantry was level using these http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1138928
I haven't messed with seeing if the Y carriage rods need to be modified though.
Installation was actually pretty simple; I watched https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AQL8PS3erqI a couple of times first to familiarize myself with the process, tho I got the cheaper version of the kit without a replacement cooling block. As to recalibration, I am having to do some tweaking, however, I also upgraded my Z-axis carriage plate at the same time, to a much thicker (heavier) plate (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7) which has (along with z-brace mod, done a couple months ago) practically eliminated the need to bed-level after every print. The heavier plate introduced some Y-axis ghosting, which lead me to lower y-axis acceleration, as well as adding some belt clips (www.thingiverse.com/thing:1784375) & tightening the X- and Y-axis belts. The one issue I'm having with the new hotend specifically is that it tends to extrude a bit while heating up. I've played with some retraction settings, but haven't really resolved that yet.
Yea, in the beginning I was in a constant battle to get the four corners leveled. Although it still is a fight it isn't nearly has bad now that I bought the extra thick plate for under the bed.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This One, I inspected it best I could and it seems straight.
not sure if you are referring to the flirt pole or the kong wobble:
I built my flirt pole:
its most similar to the first link, but I drilled holes in PVC caps for a more finished look
https://bullymax.com/flirt-pole/
https://notesfromadogwalker.com/2012/04/24/flirt-pole/
For the feeding toy:
kong
starmark bob-a-lot
Good news is the more food-motivated a dog is, often the easier they are to train.
In addition to making sure your dog does whatever "calm" behavior you want before giving the food (sit, lay down, go to a special place) - I'd strongly consider feeding her via a Bobble, Kong, or puzzle toy.
This will slow down her eating process, help digestion (so she's not scarfing food down in a single gulp, and if she's super-active may provide mental stimulation akin to a long walk or session of fetch.
When my dog was a puppy we used the Bobble and puzzle toys on rainy days when he couldn't get a lot of exercise outside and they worked wonders on exhausting him without physical exercise.
[This food toy ](StarMark Bob-A-Lot Interactive Pet Toy, Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JQLNB4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9lN9ybXY00DZT) I love everything about it: pup learned how to use it quickly, it's easy to clean, holds enough food for each meal.
I can change how fast it dispenses the food depending on kibble size and how difficult I want to make it. Keeps my pup entertained for about 20 minutes which is great in the morning while I get ready for my day. I've recommended it to many friends and have never had a complaint.
I got this for my dog and he loves to play with it. You fill it with treats and hes has to knock it around to work them out. Keeps him entertained for awhile.
http://www.amazon.com/StarMark-Bob-A-Lot-Interactive-Pet-Large/dp/B001JQLNB4/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1418248676&sr=1-2&keywords=dog+toy+treat+dispenser
You can put her food in this and she'll be distracted for a while. Also, maybe try an alternate walking route?
Game and maze toys are great! They also help to get my pyr to eat since she isn't usually inspired by the food in her bowl. My pup loves these two toys and will nudge them around the house until they are empty. Congrats on the new pyr :)
OurPets IQ Treat Ball Interactive Food Dispensing Dog Toy
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ARUKTG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-hrMzb3WWTK2W
StarMark Bob-A-Lot Interactive Pet Toy, Large
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JQLNB4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RirMzb483MJ7Z
What was your last one made of? Was it plastic coated wire cable? I have one like /u/tokisushi linked for potty breaks and my dog has broken 2 collars (running after cats/squirrels) but never has hurt the tie-out.
Better than a stationary tie-out might be one of those zipline tracks that you string between two trees, especially if your intent is for the dog to get some exercise. Dogs generally do not "wear themselves out" like you are hoping for but it would at least be more conducive to running than a regular tie-out.
I read your other comment about how the dog is not yours and all that, and I totally get where you're coming from. Just thinking out loud, mental stimulation is usually a lot more tiring (especially for puppies) than physical stimulation. Since he's confined to the kitchen a lot, he'd probably benefit from something like a puzzle feeder.
Absolutely! I usually do training for half of the meal and give the second half in a puzzle toy - we have a Bob a lot, an erratic ball and a weird strawberry thing on rotation at the moment.
Is she getting enough mental and physical exercise? It sounds like she’s bored and is getting into things. Even if you have appropriate chews for her, make sure she’s getting enough physical exercise and that you’re engaging her brain with puzzle toys and training. Both of my dogs eat their meals from Starmark Bob-a-Lot toys because it engages their brains. Nina Ottosson makes tons of great puzzle toys of varying difficulties that are relatively inexpensive. Working on trick training and obedience commands also helps tucker them out - do “commercial break” sessions, as short as 90 seconds and no longer than 5 minutes, a couple times a day.
When it comes to physical exercise, make sure she’s getting walks or that you’re playing fetch with her. Plenty of dog owners just toss their dogs out in their backyards and call it “exercise” even though most dogs aren’t going to actually expend much energy in a yard by themselves. Walks around the neighborhood are also a great opportunity for sniffing new smells, which is great mental exercise. If you don’t have the time or energy to walk her, consider hiring a dog walker, or sending her to doggy daycare one or two days a week. We also play with a flirt pole some evenings when my dogs seem restless despite multiple walks... best $15 I’ve ever spent! You can use it indoors in an open space or out in your yard (if you have one).
If your dog is getting plenty of physical and mental stimulation and still chewing things up, management is your best friend. Crate her when you can’t watch her closely or confine her to a puppy-proofed room. Or use the “umbilical” method - put her on a leash and tie it around your waist so she goes everywhere with you and isn’t out of your sight. You really can’t train a dog out of behaviors you don’t witness, but you’re setting her up for failure (and a dangerous intestinal blockage) if you leave her unsupervised in a room with tons of things she can (but shouldn’t) chew. A 15 month old lab is still effectively a big puppy and labs have an affinity for chewing things up. It might be that the best you can do is manage it now and hope she grows out of it in the coming years.
I'll check those out! Thanks for the recommendations. I already have the kong for her and I'll freeze PB with some of her kibble in it, which takes her some time to get through. She has an insane amount of energy, so the others will definitely help! She also loves the Bob-A-Lot, if you're looking for something else for yours. But this one is also incredibly loud because of the hard plastic.
First and foremost I definitely recommend seeking a professional or asking advice from a breeder as well.
If you have a two year old husky/mix it needs EXERCISE. What are you doing to help release her energy? A walk a day wont do it. Our (nearly two) year old goes for about 2-3 long walks a day and we try to run her 2-4 miles when we can. I tired husky is a happy and lazy one.
Also toys to help stimulate her mind and make her work for her food will keep her busy and distracted. We have several types of kings and big ass roller type toys that we put ALL her kibble in. She rarely eat out of her food bowl because of this. I will show a milk bone in a kong and she will work on that for a while, or i'll stick 1/4 cup of kibble in a roller ball that has a tiny opening and plays with that for 30 min. Usually she naps after.
The key to these dogs is to outsmart them. They will own the house if you let them. Do not be afraid to dominate them. I do not mean abuse btw, i mean just using your body and frame of mind to assert that you are the alpha. Dont greet them until they are qquiet and this may be done by putting them in a crate.
Is she crate trained? When we got our husky as a puppy it was much easier since she was small. However, it can be stressful for rescue dogs who arent used to that. You want to make the crate THEIR safe place. Anytime you stick peanut butter in a kong, put in the crate and wait for them to go in there and get it. Reward them with a simple "good girl". Put a tshirt of yours in the crate that has your scent on it also. Never use the crate as a form of punishment. they will just destroy it.
On accidents in the house. Female dogs (especially huskies) do not completely empty their bladders once they go outside. We usually for ours to relieve herself at least three times before bringing her back in. Another think that may be causing her to keep having accidents is anxiety. Are you yelling at her when she has accidents? Whenever she has one, do not yell at her, but just immediately stop her by touching her. Put on the leash, then immediately take her outside. Wait for her to relieve herself again and then reward her. This will take the anxiety out of it.
This is my schedule with Lucy. 6-7 AM wakeup call from her letting me know she needs to go out. Walk her and wait for her to completely relieve herself and poop on the neighbors lawn. Then put 1/4 cup kibble in a kong and stuff a medium milk bone in there. Get ready for work. By the time I come out it's nap time for her. I take her out again 10 am before I leave. She goes in the crate with another 1/4 kibble in a different kong (variety is important). She sleeps the whole time. I come home for an hour on lunch break and she goes for a long walk. Usually right after I leave to go back to work, my SO comes home and takes her on another walk. She will get play time, scratches and belly rubs, and cuddles. She goes out ever 2 hours after that generally and then goes to bed around 9-10 pm and she's tuckered out. She sleeps on the bed until lights out and then she just hops off and goes into her crate on her own.
So I know this is a wall of text, but you can see how having a husky takes a lot of effort and attention. It was more than we bargained for but we made it work and everyone "ooooh's" and "aaaah's" when they see her.
here are some of the types of toys to look out for:
she gets two cups of kibble a day and she works for most of it with the toys we have
Edit: alsp go to petsmart and get some bitter spray (anti chewing). Get their brand because its the most offensive tasting one. Whenever she has chewed or where she might chew, spray. Then spray once in her mouth so she knows how disgusting it is. When you catch her chewing, stop her and spray in her mouth and then spray the area she just chewed.
OH MY, interactive dog toy!
My pup loves this similar toy. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001JQLNB4/ref=pd_aw_fbt__petsupplies_img_2?refRID=1RERHBZZFNNP7ZF0SAFK
Basically, never feed your dog out of a bowl again. Every meal is an opportunity for mental stimulation!
Use:
Frozen Kongs - these are super easy to prep in advance. I usually have 3-5 in the freezer at any given time.
Puzzle toys like these are good for treats: 1, 2, 3
These are good for kibble: 1, 2, 3
For training, an easy way to get started is to go through the 101 Dog Tricks book. It's 101 tricks/skills to teach them with step by step instructions. Super approachable, and the tricks range from simple stuff like sit and down to more advanced skills like leg weaves. Any of the Do More With Your Dog series is good. I think they have a puppy specific book as well.
If your dog likes learning new tricks or skills you might consider getting into a dog sport like agility or nosework or even obedience. They're fun and challenging for both you and your dog - plus it's a great way to strengthen your relationship in general.
Here are some we've had luck with:
Hyper Pet Lickimat Slow Feeder Dog Mat & Boredom Buster there are a ton of recipes out there. I've learned Maisey prefers savory more to sweet recipes.
StarMark Bob-A-Lot Interactive Dog Toy This seems pretty darn sturdy. Ours has small teeth marks on the top from when Maisey pushes it into a corner and picks it up to move it, but otherwise she uses it exactly as intended and no destruction involved. Our blue heeler, on the other hand, knew where the treats were coming from and would actively paw at the opening to try and dig them out. She would NOT push it around. Dot was special though. Being a blue heeler, she was a stubborn, intelligent dog who wasn't playing anyone's games.
VARRAM Pet Fitness Robot Pet robot that cracks me up to see Maisey play with. It has an app on your phone that you drive it around with. It's like a sphero that dispenses treats.
Starmark Everlasting Bento Ball I highly recommend this. Maisey can spend so much time on it, we've started setting a timer.
Squishy Face Studio Flirt Pole You'll see a lot of recommendations for flirt poles. They require training (for both you and the dog) to use properly - there are a ton of videos on YouTube about how to use it - don't get me wrong, it's pretty easy. Maisey didn't really go for it. It wasn't her thing. Her prey drive isn't very high.
We also have a Kong but it isn't my favorite. I don't like squeezing the toy in, I have problems every time. I know people will put in food and freeze it, but I don't have that kind of forethought. They are great for destructive dogs though.
You can also look up indoor games. You can put a treat or toy in a blanket and have them dig it out. You can setup obstacle courses. Just google something like indoor dog games or something similar.
Hope that helps!
Except, we have invented them. They are commonly known and used. Even in combat when required.
http://www.amazon.com/Mutt-Muffs-DDR337-Hearing-Protection/dp/B002CZQ1TA
There's a pretty good selection of products for hunting dogs. I'm sure they would work the same for your situation.
https://www.amazon.com/Mutt-Muffs-DDR337-Hearing-Protection/dp/B002CZQ1TA
These have mixed reviews but I have had luck with them.
Earmuffs for dogs? They're mad expensive though
get these mate
https://www.amazon.com/Mutt-Muffs-DDR337-Hearing-Protection/dp/B002CZQ1TA
Yes they do: https://www.amazon.com/Mutt-Muffs-DDR337-Hearing-Protection/dp/B002CZQ1TA
I got a hunting dog, I go quail/dove/duck hunting every season and he brings the birds back. He loves hunting but since I got ear plugs in for safety I also use ear protection for my dog. I think Cody could use something like this but have some folks in the costume department modify these to look really cool for TV. This is what I use on my dog when hunting:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002CZQ1TA
If you're pretty sure it's mostly the light and the sound, you could invest in some blackout blinds for your windows, and condition your dog to wear "Mutt Muffs." There are also websites that play white noise to drown out some of the noise, as well.
I would not hesitate to ask your vet for medications here. There are safe medications to help your dog through their thunderstorm fears, and it's really best to help your dog immediately instead of waiting for a bigger issue...Some dogs even start to associate drops in barometric pressure before a storm starts with intense fear and anxiety.
ETA: I've also heard of folks stuffing the inside of the Mutt Muffs with fabric or cotton for extra noise reduction.
I've got an 18 lb dog and we usually alternate between a kong with frozen dog safe peanut butter, a ball that she can push around until treats come out ( https://www.amazon.com/OurPets-Smarter-Interactive-Treat-Colors/dp/B003ARUKTG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1485722531&sr=8-3&keywords=dog+puzzle+toy ), and also this toy with flaps but she figured it out too fast: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006ZTTSOE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you cannot move a lot (and that's why you can't exercise him a lot), I have a few possible suggestions.
https://smile.amazon.com/Squishy-Face-Studio-Exercise-Squeaker/dp/B00HFFXEWE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484324235&sr=8-1&keywords=flirt+pole
A flirt pole is almost like a cat tease toy. It's a pole with a felt toy at the end, and you can get your dog to chase after it. Most people use it in their back yards, and the individual can stand in one place while make the flirt pole go in a circle and the dog runs after it. Depending on the dog, it can really tire them out. My particular puppy likes it, but only for a very limited amount of time (he would rather play keep away). I could see how you might possible be able to do the flirt pole indoors from a seated position.
Dog-feeding puzzles might help your dog calm by taxing his brain:
https://smile.amazon.com/Outward-Hound-Feeder-Bloat-Orange/dp/B00FPKNRCS/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1484324554&sr=1-2&keywords=dog+feeding+puzzles
https://smile.amazon.com/OurPets-Smarter-Interactive-Treat-Colors/dp/B003ARUKTG/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1484324953&sr=1-1&keywords=dog+feeding+ball
Also, you could try hiding treats or a toy, and teaching him how to play "hide and seek" with you.
When we want to watch tv, and don't want to get up, we play fetch, and that keeps him happy for a while [but the dang ball always ends up under the couch or other furniture!].
Hope this helps a little.
A puppy who is full of energy and would rather play than eat might benefit from a more engaging meal - try a treat ball or a Kong (add her meal, seal it with a bit of peanut butter and freeze it for a fun treat). Treat feeders, along with feeding on a schedule, helped reform my dainty eater.
Our Pets IQ Treat Ball Interactive Food Dispensing Dog Toy (ASSORTED COLOR) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ARUKTG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_zV1rDbMEB2T79
My cats took a bit of time to figure it out, but it keeps mine busy for a long time.
Also would recommend a window perch if you don’t have one yet.
If you are feeling adventurous, you could get a cat harness and take the cat on a walk. I’ve done that with my cats and they do behave differently from a dog, but it does give them a lot of stimulation.
My suggestion is to get another cat.
I have two Border Collies, Leila and Fiona. Leila is named after the Eric Clapton song, although spelled differently. Fiona is named after Fiona from American Horror Story. Don't judge me lol
Technically both of them could enjoy these although they're primarily for Fiona.
Perhaps your pooches would like this? It helps give them something to chase around for tasty exercise!
The bob-a-lot is my dogs favourite, not as easy to unscrew as the wobbler. She also has the Buster Cube and its one that takes a long time to get all the food out, which is great.
She also really loves the Busy Buddy Magic Mushroom and we have several types of treat ball. I like the IQ Ball as it has an adjustable opening but it may be a bit small for your dog, it holds about 1/2 a cup of kibble.
That thing kicks out a ton of food! I have this one and my dog loses his mind over it. He has to work pretty hard to get food out of it and he loves it. I'd like to get a soft rubber one like you have though. Which one is this? The plastic one is way too noisy for anything off carpet.
My 8 week old Aussie seems to really love his [IQ treat ball](OurPets Smarter Toys Interactive IQ Treat Ball Dog Toy, 4 Inches (Colors may vary) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ARUKTG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pNoyxbZT4SMMJ)
Although fair warning, it can get a little annoying after a while. He was nosing it around for almost an hour trying to get kibble out and it's just a tad noisy.
For some combination light physical movement and mental stimulation, would she chase a treat ball?
We use the large KONG Extreme Dog Toy, Medium, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GUDZO2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sQ81AbHCEGYVC, trixies flipboard 2 TRIXIE Pet Products Flip Board, Level 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0054Q9TMA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RR81AbJEX56X9. treat ball OurPets IQ Treat Ball Interactive Food Dispensing Dog Toy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ARUKTG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oS81AbJ0XDRE8, a treat hiding thing Dog Smart Treat Dispensing Dog Toy Brain and Exercise Game for Dogs by Nina Ottosson https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0711Y9Y8W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MS81AbJWBH0TC, a rolling nibble kibble PetSafe Busy Buddy Kibble Nibble Meal Dispensing Dog Toy, Medium/Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F0RRUA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FT81AbYG9PW7N, a self toy KONG Rambler Ball, Large (colors vary) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BBGRT4Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wU81AbYC200R4, and a large tug a jug PetSafe Medium/Large Sportsmen Tug A Jug Pet Chew Toy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K4KZ8M0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LV81AbFBTP67F.
The kong I use spread treats inside because dry treats last only a few seconds.
Trixies flipboard is low to meh at getting her attention, sometimes she doesnt care for the food to bother with it.
Iq treat ball she finds a way to break, pushing into a wall, chomping on it, the moment you look away.
The hide a treat thing is easy for her.
The nibble kibble is the same as the treat ball.
The kong rambler she easily pulls the ball from its station and the toy is moot, now its just a ball.
The tug a jug becomes a weapon that she whips around until it smashes open.
The one thing I have noticed that can keep her attention is a pile of wood we have outside. Inside that pile of wood is chipmunks and squirrels that she messes with until I call her over. I'm thinking that she enjoys live toys? Or does she it as just something for her to herd.
I have a 7y/o lab mix who is insanely food motivated. I bought a little ball that I fill with kibble that slowly dispenses the kibble as she pushes it around and plays with it, and it is her absolute favorite thing ever! Found it on Amazon!
OurPets IQ Treat Ball Interactive Food Dispensing Dog Toy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ARUKTG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_26ALAb3XT8VFQ
So yeah, the only toy that has held her interest despite its inability to dispense food is the stuffed moose. I've actually put all the rest of her toys away in hopes of someday reintroducing them and having them seem novel again.
Our Pets IQ Treat Ball... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ARUKTG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I believe there are two different sizes
A little meatball for little meatball!
My issue with a toy like Pickle Pocket, is that I'd be afraid it'd be a choking hazard looking at the shape.
There are other simpler toys like OurPets IQ Treat Ball - with over 5000 reviews, more traditional and cheaper. Just my 2c.
This is something my Leo would love! It'd keep him occupied so maybe he wouldn't bite my hand so much. He's teething...lost two teeth so far! I love my pet! Though he can be a little menace sometimes...but he's a cute little menace!
I would suggest something to keep any puppy busy, lest you lose a shoe or ten...
I love my pet :)
I use this treat ball. The bad reviews are all yorkies getting their bottom jaw stuck in it, not an issue with my girl. The one disadvantage is that it's very loud, but she knocks it around and pounces on it and understands that her kibble comes out.
How old is your pup? If the dog has adult teeth, try getting a deer antler. They are a renewable, non-staining, long-lasting chew toy and my Papillon loves them. She also loves her kong stuffed with peanut butter or dog food or cheese and any of the prior combinations but she won't really chew on anything aside from the antler. If she doesn't have one or can't find hers for a couple days, I find that anything in the house becomes at risk for chewing and she's 2+ years old. You could also try this with some food or hard treats inside just to keep the pup busy. Hope that helps! EDIT: If you find that keeping the dog in sight is an issue, leashing the pup and keeping them tethered to you with a carabiner to a belt loop helps a ton!
I bought one of these and one of these. Hopefully she gets the flip board. She only likes toys that are food related so I want more enrichment for her.
I was thinking of getting her one of these treat balls for her food too.
She eats soooo fast and then she burps so I am getting worried about it! I have been trying 3x a day.
I just picked one at random as an example so not sure. I use this with my dogs when I don't have time to do training. Its pretty small though only fits about half a cup of kibble
I Agree but things to also take into consideration. Environments with high and/or dry temperatures will cause most dogs to attempt to cool off through panting and laying on cool surfaces. (Some people see this as being tired, but is a different form of fatigue)
For the peeing, make a note of any changes that have happened in the past 3-4 months (The new kitten?), even something like change in outdoor lighting can cause a dog to stress. This in turn could cause a fear of peeing at night, or added stress could cause a UTI. Make a note of anything you can for the vet trip. I would restrict your dogs access to the house when you sleep (Crate training, or in your room, or something like that.) Allowing him to continue the behavior is VERY counter productive. Every time he gets away with it, he is 'rewarded' which makes the behavior harder to break.
Something to note JRTs are very high energy dogs that chase small vermin, anything that might run around or roll around (Nothing living please :-) will help burn energy. things like this toy will help with both the terrier predatory drive and his high energy.
https://www.amazon.com/Our-Pets-Interactive-Dispensing-ASSORTED/dp/B003ARUKTG
It works well and has an easier and more difficult setting. He loves it and it keeps him stimulated - cause he’ll do anything for food (but not much else) 😂
Then you need this IQ toy on your list!
My puppy loves this one and the difficulty is adjustable. Easy to clean too!
OurPets Smarter Toys Interactive IQ Treat Ball Dog Toy (Colors may vary) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ARUKTG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZQvmybAZCEFXN
Hello everyone! We are [Bear] (http://i.imgur.com/yJcaP4C.jpg), [Pancake] (http://i.imgur.com/ulnyNmC.jpg), and [Chunk] (http://i.imgur.com/M7ZG6mC.jpg). Mom says we are spoiled brats, but come on, look at how cute we are! Mom also says we are the most handsomest boys on the planet and we completely agree with her there. We would like to hang out with both Viktor and Hanners, since we love both puppies and kitties. We really think you both would like [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Ourpets-DT-10504-Smarter-Toys-Inches/dp/B003ARUKTG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369328903&sr=8-1&keywords=dog+toys) because your mom could put treats in it for both of you (and who doesn't like to chase a ball around?). Our mommy thinks we would like anything on this [list] (http://amzn.com/w/2QB5CR9KR71XX). But really we like just about everything and we aren't picky at all!
And some extra picture because mommy says we are adorable. [Bear with our mommy!] (http://i.imgur.com/qGMPuT4.jpg) and [The two kitties together!] (http://i.imgur.com/7DEMfR2.jpg).
Thanks for wanting to spoil us and all the other pets out there!
I want to be friends with Hanners and Viktor!
I've been doing this with our min pin for a while. I got one of these from Amazon, and depending on the setting, it takes her up to 35 minutes to eat what normally takes her about 10 seconds out of a bowl.
Coconut's been messing around with this one:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ARUKTG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and this one:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003DQJQ1C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
But she likes to take the wood pegs from the latter one and run off with them so I'm worried she's going to choke on them. She only gets to play with that one under supervision.
But now I'm thinking of getting some timber from Home Depot for her to gnaw on.
We used a trainer but pet smart is a great option! We chose group classes since it teaches socialization and that's where you will get bite inhibition. It will be frustrating at first bc puppy won't listen to you but stick with it!
We use several treat dispensing toys and as for the Kong I will actually soak her food in water for a bit until it absorbs some and then freeze it because she is having stomach issue so we aren't using treats. She really has to work at it to get it out. Here are some of the toys we use:
That's so exciting! Congrats! My big dog (7 years old) and my cousin's puppy both love this treat dispenser toy.
I just picked up one of these and it holds the attention of my easily bored, overly excited, chewer. I've used the tug-o-jug and the food cube, both of which she figured out how to pick up and throw around until they break open, and then she chews on the sharp plastic bits if I don't get to them quickly enough. So far, she can't pick up the ball so she can't slam it down and destroy it, and it rolls around which entertains her a good bit. She gets every meal served in this and never seems to lose interest.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ARUKTG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
im a huge fan of this toy, it's got adjustable difficulties and my bc loves it!
Hey there,
So your dog sounds like someone who would really love puzzle toys. They are toys that can keep dogs occupied for a while since the way the toy administers treats really varies so the dog will keep at it. A good one that isn't too expensive that my dog loves is this one from amazon. It has an adjustable hole so you can control how often food/treats will come out of the ball. Just keep in mind it's made out of a hard plastic so it may make noise when it gets knocked into things. If this concerns you, another toy I would suggest is this one which is also on amazon. It's a little more expensive but it does the same thing as the first one I listed and it has rubber bumpers around it so it won't make as much noise. Hope this helps!
I have a 2 year old red nosed pit.
none are affiliate links
My pit is obsessed with large circular balls, and she'll easily deflate a soccer ball in minutes, so I bought this rubber soccer-sized ball that doesn't deflate. I kick and throw this ball around, and all her attention is on it. She's a gnaw-er, so she try to bite through basketballs and soccer balls as quickly as she can. This ball has stayed un-deflated for weeks now: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EMSVVAI/
For fetching with smaller balls, I bought two lacrosse balls, as they are very durable. And the reason they're durable is because they're not mostly empty inside, like regular bouncy balls you'll find at Petco. My pit isn't good at dropping the ball at me, so I throw the second when she gets close enough to me with the first, and she'll drop the ball: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006JANLLU/
Nylabone, super durable and a great chew toy: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002ASNAM/
This food dispensing toy for mental stimulation: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ARUKTG/
I also have the luxury of having a co-worker who had a dog supply ecommerce website (closed shop last month) and he gave me these large deer antler(?) bones as well as several other items for free. But the antler bone is easily the best chew toy the dog has ever tried to chew on, and it was free.
I got the IQ Treat Ball in one of my monthly Bark Box packages (highly recommend for their great products and awesome customer service) and it is one of the best, longest lasting dog products I've owned.
My dog has abused it in many ways, including chewing. It only broke open once when I wasn't supervising but I'm guessing it was because the top was loose. However, I've tossed and rolled it across my house and hasn't broken open once. You can adjust the opening for the treats depending on how easy or hard you want your dog to get to the food.
It hold a good amount of food, definitely enough to feed my dog. You can always refill it too. The ball has a twist open top so you can clean it inside and out. Your dog must be very food motivated in order for him to play with it. At first you need to show your dog there food and treats inside to get him to play with it but she will catch on. After a while, my dog figured out how to roll the ball in a way that will get multiple treats out. One of my more prouder moments as a dog owner.
Amazon link: http://amzn.com/B003ARUKTG
Why not just use one of these chuckit-ball-launchers, they are cheap and are an all in one snowball compactor and delivery system. Just take it out to a softer snow bank (ice and dense pack might break it) and just grab a scoop of snow like you would going into a pint of ice cream, then let loose the new found projectile at your enemies. Fast reload time decent range and no moving parts make the Chuckit ball launcher a true tide turning piece of technology wintertime armament. As a side bonus during the summer if you have a dog and a tennis ball hours of fetch without throwing your arm out.
That's my wonderful boyfriend, wearing my hoodie, and throwing the ball for them with a ChuckIt. (We have a big backyard.)
Does your dog like to play fetch? We've got a lab-whippet mix and running is her favourite thing in the world. I bought a chuckit so that I can get a really long throw. We play in a big field, but if you've got a large yard, that will work too!
Edit: For some reason the other answers didn't load in until after I posted. I see that your dog looses interest in fetch. It might just be that he's getting a bit tired. I usually do five to ten throws of the ball and when I see my dog is starting to flag a little, I say "game over" and she gets a couple of minutes to relax and grab a drink of water before we start again. Ending the game on my terms instead of on hers keeps her interest in fetch really high.
Or one of these: Canine Hardware Chuckit Ball Launcher Classic Medium (25 inches) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006IX59/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_E6JZCbNHAK0HK
This is even cheaper, and launches tennis balls a sufficient distance to tire out a pupper.
You can buy this product - https://www.amazon.com/Chuckit-Classic-Launcher-Colors-Vary/dp/B00006IX59
Get a ChuckIt and save your arms! Not only can you throw a ball farther, you also don't have to pick up the nasty slobbery thing.
If they play fetch, tennis balls can be bought cheap. Pair some with a ChuckIt! Launcher and some treats and you'd have a nice doggy themed gift.
if he has energy to chew he might not be getting enough exercise. longer walks and more play time.
if you have a yard and he is into "fetch" get a [chuck-it] (http://www.amazon.com/Chuckit-Ball-Launcher-Colors-Vary/dp/B00006IX59/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1342583169&sr=8-1&keywords=chuck+it) No more picking up the slobbery ball with your hand!
A ranch? So lots of running room? Throw a ball for them. Get one of these to save your arm and for farther throws. It really is a game changer. I like the glow in the dark balls the best as they bunch up easier when I have to pull them from my weims mouth. Part of the fetch game with my girl is "I just got it for you, you need to take it from me."
Doggie ball thrower....thing
Look into some throwing/fetch toys like the Chuck It Launcher. My little guy will literally fetch all day long if I let him.
Something that bounces randomly when it hits the ground is also great, he goes crazy trying to catch toys like that. We have the Chuck It Evader and the Kong Ring Zinger. I spent some time training him to bring the toy closer to me, having him lay down or do a trick before I'll throw it again. He prefers a game of fetch to treats any day and is highly motivated to learn new tricks/behaviours if he knows the reward is a round of ball chasing.
> http://www.amazon.com/Chuckit-Classic-Launcher-Colors-Vary/dp/B00006IX59
If your dogs are anything like mine, the extra $5 for the one with the comfortable handle (instead of hard plastic) is a no-brainer... plus it throws a bit farther!
> was the treat something substantial that keeps her busy for the whole time you're gone, or just something regular like a dog treat ?
My pup has a slow feed bowl that looks something like this, so I used to put in some of the things that she would go crazy over, and would normally take her at least 5+ minutes to consume, like smearing a thin layer of peanut butter across all of the bowl surfaces. Be warned though, some dogs tend to have sensitive snouts and can rub their noses raw on the bowl, but my pup hasn't had that problem. You just need to find something that is truly a "high value" treat for your dog, and using it exclusively for that. My pup would go nuts over cheese, so I took a piece of old cheddar and smeared it like a crayon inside her bowl. She really liked that. Another option is a puzzle toy like this filled with something tasty (she could occupy herself for half an hour on that), or even a classic Kong with some liver flavoured spread.
> And when you say she wasn't allowed to eat the treat till you were gone - did she see you put it somewhere , how exactly does that work
That's correct! I would let her see me preparing a treat for her, and then I'd place it in her bowl so that she'd focus on waiting for the "go" command instead of building her anxiety at watching me get ready to leave (brushing my teeth, fixing my hair, tying my shoes, etc).
A quick bit of background - The first thing that I had trained her to do was to never snatch, pick up ,or take anything that I haven't specifically told her she can have - this meant toys, meals and treats. I would place treats in front of her, and she learned that she can't have it until I say so, even if I turn away or walk away. I was able to use this trait to keep her focused completely on waiting for the treats, so instead of pacing and whining that I was leaving, she would instead sit by her food bowl and wait for me while I got ready to leave. When I'd open the door and walk out, I'd give the release command "okay!" and she's make herself busy with her treat while I locked up and walked away.
I also reviewed the footage afterwards (from my home surveillance system) and after she finished her treats, she would sniff the door, whine once or twice, grumble a bit (because I'm gone), and then she'd go sleep on the couch all day.
Our 7mths old only eats out of these treats balls now. He seems to like the interactiveness of it. We're looking into the mats too now, since the ball leaves crumbs all over the house as he's rolling it around. Although he's pretty good at cleaning up his own messes most of the time. haha.
My dog's favorites are the Kong wobbler, Buster Cube, Omega treat ball, and a frozen Kong stuffed with a gross mixture of wet kibble and peanut butter. Personally, I like the Omega treat ball because it's soft and doesn't make a lot of noise on our hardwood floors.
We tried a few of those Ottosson dog puzzles, but my dog quickly figured out that she can flip the entire thing over and all her food falls out instead of figuring it out the "correct" way.
Don't overlook homemade toys too. I roll up kibble in newspaper, stuff the newspaper into small box, then put that box into larger box, tape it up, and let her shred it up. She loves it.
Failures were the Tug a Jug and the IQ treat ball.
Even at my dog's worst his blood work-ups (and parasite checks) came back normal, so I wouldn't necessarily trust those as an indicator that everything is fine. That being said, my dog was throwing up blood and getting spontaneous bloody diarrhea in the house though, so those are really obvious signs that something's wrong, you would notice something like that! Unfortunately it took a long time for the vet to figure out what was wrong, but since we've gotten it figured out we haven't had a single incident, thank goodness.
Since you don't have concerns about your dog's health, one thing you can try is feeding your dog his meals in a puzzle toy. My dog is much more motivated to eat if I put his kibble in a "kibble ball" (http://www.amazon.com/Omega-Paw-Tricky-Treat-Large/dp/B0002DK26M), but you could also look into the kong wobbler or other toys where the dog can play to get his meal out. Even sticking kibble in a toilet paper tube and pinching the ends shut is fun for my dog. He thinks empty toilet paper rolls are fun though, too.
My dog is eating Annamaet, the venison/salmon formula. He doesn't do well with chicken/turkey/duck/some fish so his options are pretty limited. Annamaet does make GF foods too if you're really into that, I used to feed the red meat formula ("manitok") but 30% protein is too much for my pup. Plus I'm not opposed to grains for dogs, I'm just careful about which ones/how much. I really love Annamaet, it's really popular here, but it's definitely not available everywhere!
If you're looking for a basic guide to dog foods, this website does a pretty great job rating dog foods. Ultimately, the best dog food for your dog is one your dog does well on, but this is a nice place to see what kinds of ingredients are present in dog foods and the potential benefits/issues with certain ingredients in dog foods: http://www.dogfoodadvisor.com/dog-food-reviews/brand/
What's his attitude while pacing? Ears up, tail position/movement? Where and when does he usually do it - just out in public, or at home too? How does he react when you distract him or give him a command?
It's possible he's needing more mental stimulation. Pibs are very high-drive prey-focused dogs, so they need something that tires them out mentally as well as just expending their energy. What do you do for exercise? If you haven't tried a flirt pole yet, I'd pick one up, and give that a shot. You can also use puzzle toys and treat dispensers like the Starmark Everlast toys and the Omega Paw ball to feed him, which'll get rid of some of his need to 'hunt'.
I feed my dog out of a treat dispensing ball.
Omega Paw Products Tricky Treat Ball - Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DK26M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UjyTBbAC38X25
https://www.amazon.com/KONG-Gyro-Dog-Toy-Large/dp/B01GP4826S
this one is good.. but it's hard plastic, soo if your using it on a hard surface it can be a bit loud.
https://www.amazon.com/Omega-Paw-Tricky-Treat-Large/dp/B0002DK26M/ref=sr_1_6?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1500479295&sr=1-6&keywords=dog+treat+ball
this one has always been staple in my house for all my dogs, it's fairly quiet, they have to learn to push it around with their nose. my old BC used to push this thing around all day long it was great if she was being a bit of a pest!
I'm not sure what budget you're working with, but with the fitness/snowboarding interest, maybe a camelbak would be a good gift! I think it'd be fun to throw in a gift or two for their dog, too. You could get a hide-a-squirrel or a tricky treat ball.
Also my dog loves this omega Ball. We put food and treats in it and it keeps him busy and lets him work. Omega Paw Tricky Treat Ball, Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DK26M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_W6KrybQFTNCMY
Somebody else mentioned treat balls, here's the one we have. I think my dog like the rubbery texture of it, and can pick it up when she wants to.
http://www.amazon.com/Omega-Paw-Tricky-Treat-Large/dp/B0002DK26M/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1454166849&sr=1-1&keywords=treat+ball
You can also do it in the yard! Scatter the food around the grass so he has to search it out.
My dog gets her breakfast out of this ball. It's fairly easy for the kibble to fall out (until the last one, which she can never get), but she spends about 15 minutes wandering around the house rolling it and eating. Gives her mind something to do, takes her a bit longer to eat her food, and gives me a peaceful 15 minutes to drink my coffee.
There are also 'snuffle mats' you can try (basically a fleece blanket with a bunch of knots in it; lots of DIY options). All of these are fun ways to get your dog his food while giving him a bit of a challenge!
My dog uses this and she absolutely loves it. It's made of a soft plastic, so unless your dog will try to chew through the ball, it's pretty durable.
I love this idea! We bought this a while ago, but have up after a few unsuccessful tries. We'll use your method and go from there - thanks!
P.S. Give your golden boy a treat for me!
I bought mine at Walmart. But here is the link for amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002DK26M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1410838767&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40
Yes, like that one. This one (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002DK26M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523798861&sr=8-1&keywords=omega+tricky+treat+ball) is the exact one I got because it's cheaper and it holds more food (I have a large breed pup).
My dog has some similar play tendencies and she LOVES this ball:
ttp://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002DK26M
These treats are the perfect size and not too high in calories (and they smell delicious):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002R8SLUY
She'll nudge the ball around for hours trying the get a treat from it, even picking it up in her mouth and bouncing it against the wall! It's made from a durable plastic. I've had hers for over a year and it's good as new. Its just the right balance of work/reward and is hands down her favourite toy.
2nd runner up is a braided rope bone for thrashing about and playing tug-o-war.
Three dogs and five cats home here. Thank you so taking in this dog. You and you wife deserve praise for being so caring. Your new dog will want to check out everything, most probably the kitties. I think the main thing you will need to do is train him not to chase kitties. I dog sit for a friend of mine when they go on vacation, and when Sam first came here he was fascinated with the kitties. He also had to deal with my two Labs and German Shepherd. Just give him some time and scold him if he chases the cats. He will learn fast enough. I wouldn't be surprised if one of the kitties likes to play with him. I am also going to tell you a toy that my dog was given and every dog seems to love.
This is the amazon link but you can get them elsewhere.http://www.amazon.com/Kyjen-PP01056-Hide-A-Squirrel-Squeak-4-Piece/dp/B0002I0O60/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405262415&sr=8-1&keywords=squirrel+in+a+stump+dog+toy
Stay in touch and tell us how things are going.
Bully sticks are a favorite for my pair, but they don't last long (maybe 30-45 min). Anything stuffed is shredded into stuffing and fluff within 2 weeks. My boy doesn't chew this toy, but it he loves it. Carries it around with him everywhere, licking it, tossing it, sleeping on it. Unfortunately the girl makes it her mission to actually destroy it, so I have to buy a new one every month or so. Funny enough, they have zero interest in the little squirrels, only the tree trunk, so i have like 20 little squirrels in their "toy bin" now.
I no longer give them elk antlers because they've both cracked teeth on them. They have had zero interest in nylabones.
I'm sure I'm supposed to put my husband here, and he's really been making an effort lately. However, at this very moment, my dog is giving me puppy face. I just can't resist puppy face. Also, he barks to protect me from strange house noises, people passing by on the sidewalk, wind... He is very brave, and I've never had a truer friend. I hope he hides behind me and barks at the pizza guy for many years to come.
Would you consider getting Malcolm this interesting toy from his list if we win? I'm sure he'd be pretty grateful.
Thanks for the contest, and happy 8th birthday to your favorite person! (Carrot cake is an excellent choice!)
Hi - we also have an adopted rat terrier who had a lot of behavioral issues when we first adopted him (bark/lunge/growl at every stranger who entered the house, afraid of all big dogs, buses, etc).
when we got him he had multiple scars & lacerations, we don't know if it was from a human or another animal.
we tried a lot of different re-direction techniques, and in the end, what worked best was a tip from the last trainer - squirt him in the face. we got a little squirt bottle, filled it with water, and when he behaved aggressively towards people, we would just squirt him. he got the the message very quickly that we didn't want him to do that.
it took him about 6 months to play with a toy. we started with something he could chew on, just a leather ring...then soft toys, and he likes the shake them around like he is killing them :)
he really liked the squirrels in the tree soft toy - he could pull out the little squirrels and shake them around. http://www.amazon.com/Kyjen-PP01056-Hide-A-Squirrel-Pet-Large/dp/B0002I0O60
good luck!
We like:
Outward Hound Hide a Squirrel Fun Hide & Seek Interactive Puzzle Plush Dog Toy, 4 Piece, Junior/Large/Jumbo/Medium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002I0O60/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RbwGDb9J3V7KC
And the Trixie puzzle board games
If so, my family dog, Josh, who's only 10LB loves this hide-a-squirrel toy. They make various sizes, including one for little dogs. I think it'd be a good thing to distract from any chewing things that oughtn't be. Josh likes to tote the squirrels around, throw them in the air and basically play fetch with himself.
He definitely needs one of these...they are awesome...I was gifted the gigantic one for my dogs...but your can use the little one...oh and did I say squirrels!!! http://www.amazon.com/Kyjen-PP01056-Hide-A-Squirrel-Squeak-4-Piece/dp/B0002I0O60/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420856682&sr=8-1&keywords=squirrel+stump+dog+toy
My puppy is always crated when someone isn't home. We have nice things and it isn't fair to ask a toddler not to destroy nice things without supervision. What we do: we don't make it a big deal at all to put him in, or take him out. I got him this and he gets really excited about it. I hide treats under the squirrel, and I put it in his crate. He now will preemptively go in there as soon as he sees me pick up his squirrel house because he loves it so much. Also, because I don't want him to be anxious or lonely, I bought him a buddy (stuffed dog) and put it in there with him along with other toys, and his crate faces the TV, so we play a nature DVD in the background. I also bought him a crate cover so it's more den-like.
Congrats! I just got a pug puppy myself a few weeks ago. Wanted to share my experiences I've had so far.
What kind of bed should we get for a pug? I'm thinking about getting this bed in the Medium size. Is this too big for the dog?
My pug tends to like plush things, he's always making his way into my clothes/towels. I got him this one since he loves hiding under my couch, and he loves it.
Is this crate a good fit for the pug? I'm planning to get the 24"x18"x19" size.
Crate training is a god send, especially when it comes to potty training. If you have the time, I would invest in doing that. I have the same exact crate and it works for him. The crate should only be big enough for him to stand and turn around, if he's a bit smaller (younger), you can use the divider so the crate will grow with your pug.
Any suggestions on a leash (retractable, fixed or both?)
My pug isn't old enough to go on walks yet, he hasn't had all his shots so I wouldn't be able to tell you. As a previous dog owner, fixed leash is best until he's learned proper walking manners and then you can invest in a retractable.
What kind of toys would a pug enjoy? I was told we needed a chewing one and a tugging one!
My pug's favorite toy is this one.
Any recommendations for food or treats?
Like what people earlier said, low-calorie treats are good since pugs tend to gain weights easily. When training, I would recommend freeze dried liver treats... my pug loves them!! Food wise, I feed my pug Taste of the Wild puppy formula... them or Blue Buffalo are great bets for your pug.
Good luck!!
My Mum's dogs had these squirrel toys and they went crazy for them!
This was always my puppy's favorite toy and lasts into adulthood...
Edit: These are also a great way to deal with potty training and alerting you when she needs to go out.
Thanks for the contest!
i would love some dog toys for my fur babies
This is Wiley. I think he would really like this hide-a-squirrel puzzle toy. Aren't they cute?
My family owns an English Mastiff. She swallowed one of the squirrels from this toy. After the initial shock (for her and us) we had a lovely evening of trying to control a 150lb Mastiff while attempting to "feed" her Hydrogen Peroxide. For things like toys they recommend feeding them bread first as well as it will encapsulate the toy/etc so that it doesn't wreck their throats on the way out.
Tip: we ended up soaking the bread in the peroxide and feeding that to her. Squirting it down her throat was a WWE Battle Royal, but soaking bread in it was a feast - freaking dogs. Then the throwing up began. And then we had two round balls of bread, one full of dog food and the other, low and behold, containing the missing squirrel.
My mother in laws dogs love this toy happy Birthday to your puppy!
Brandy looks wonderful. Such lovely colouring.
I get these for Butters. He loves them.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002I0O60/ref=s9_al_bw_g199_i2
Not a harness but the gentle leader was a game changer for our 60lb doodle.check it out
Unless paired with a gentle leader
Try using a Gentle Leader for a while, this helped me with my German Shepherd Dog. http://www.amazon.com/Premier-Gentle-Leader-Headcollar-Black/dp/B00074L4W2/ref=sr_sp-atf_title_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370921397&sr=8-1&keywords=gentle+leader
the Gentle Leader is what we use on our Saint Bernard, works great. I actually just posted this in another post: http://www.amazon.com/Premier-Gentle-Leader-Headcollar-Black/dp/B00074L4W2
You said 'gentle lead,' but did you use a name brand 'gentle leader'? http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Gentle-Leader-Headcollar-Large/dp/B00074L4W2/ref=sr_1_3
Must study the dvd or youtube video instructions and apply exactly as directed. It seems odd applying the loop around the head (behind the ears) so tight--but follow the directions precisely.
I have a 115 lb dog bred to pull carts & she does love to pull ;-) This makes a 100% difference as when she pulls..... her head is turned around to face whoever's walking her--and that's no fun. Even my 5 year old grandson has no problem walking her with the gentle leader. She has little or no interest in pulling with the gentle leader on-I use a slim puppy leash with it. But she still will pull some with a normal lead. There's lots of useful reading on the amazon page: both the product description and some of the over 3800 user reviews. It does work for lots of dogs.
Good luck!
This is exactly what I did with my 2 year old rescue dog. Stopped walking every single time she pulled and told her to "slow down". In less than a week, she was barely pulling at all. Then we started obedience classes, and I bought her a PetSafe Gentle Leader headcollar. Now she heels almost perfectly on our daily walks. I've had her for about nine months now.
I like the head collar. Tightens as they pull and it makes their head turn towards me if they pull too far
https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Gentle-Leader-Headcollar-Large/dp/B00074L4W2
In addition to the other comments about giving the dog more excercise, I'd recommend buying a head leader collar. This should almost instantly stop the pulling issue since you're now controlling the dog from the snout instead of the neck where they still have a lot of core power to work with. After 4-6 months of this, you can switch back to a normal leash; they ought to be very used to staying by your side at this point.
As far as regular leashes go, I'd recommend something similar to this one. Don't use a leash longer than ~6ft for your sized dog. Any more than that is unecessary and will only encourage pulling.
Nope. That harness attaches at the dog’s chest, which, while not chocking the dog, actually enables the dog to pull harder. Dogs naturally pull. If you give steady resistance, they pull harder. Let me get you a link to the gentle leader.
https://www.petsafe.net/gentleleader
And here’s amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Gentle-Leader-Collar-Training/dp/B00074L4W2
Definitely check this out. It may be your saving grace with your pup. I suggest reading the amazon reviews — there are a lot of good ones of stories how the leader helped their dog with pulling issues almost immediately, although adjusting the dog to having a halter on its nose can take even weeks. I’ve experienced a dog that was forced to wear the halter without a gentle, positive learning route, and it was not good. She learned to hate the halter. I recommend taking your time with lots of treats as the DVD included with the gentle leader (I think that them giving DVDs for training is really so cool) will instruct.
Save for the one dog who was forced to wear the gentle leader, Ive never had a bad experience. I hope you can have better peace of mind walking your dog soon.
Yes, mostly because she won't get hurt if she suddenly stops and i yank on the leesh. Plus, she can sprint ahead more freely and pull me if she really was going fast. I wouldn't go on walks with the harness, since she'll just pull me to wherever she wants to go. I use a gentle leader when we walk.
They do look scary, but when you see how they work - its not that bid of a deal. I actually put it on my own neck to test it out. I will say make sure you get a good one where the prongs are rounded and not just squared off.
I have had it come off once while walking her, but I think it was user error. My wife and boys have no issues with it.
The other solution we use with our beagle/basset is the gentle leader
A Gentle Leader would of prevented this.