(Part 2) Best drwawing pens according to redditors

It's was drawn using a fineliner pen, and watercolor paint applied with brush. First result from google: https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Black-Micro-Liner-Fineliner-Pens/dp/B07BP2BJFJ

I love your style. You might enjoy a sable hair fountain pen like this you can get a refillable cartridge for it for 5$ and then get any color or kind of fountain pen ink you like, waterproof or not.

I had a painting teacher introduce me to it, she hiked the pacific crest trail for a year and her only art tools were that pen and a lot of small sketchbooks. I really dig the pen and you might like it for sketching in the cold, you may need to get an ink meant for cold though.

Notebooks by themselves can be archived depending on the type of media you are writing on. Welcome to the snobbery that is writing implements and media! I personally use Sakura-brand Pigma Micron 05 pens and acid free journal paper, to prolong the lifespan of any writing. Anything pH neutral in a pen is fine. Paper can get crazy expensive and usually its the ink that fades before the paper totally yellows out. A six pack of sakura pens usually last me the better part of the year - 6 pack

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It is just the way my brain works, but I'd keep the topics in categories (I was also imagining how you could better use the content for your future podcasts/interviews). You can also create subcategories for date of a particular topic. That way, you can also add in even more meta ways of recalling the subject: red binders for ETH1.X to ETH2.0 transitions for example. Or green for "MSM" coverage of crypto, etc. It might be harder for someone else to use your work later, but the categorical method is a fun way to store stuff.

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And one thing to leverage is google alerts if you are not already. Any topic that you create, make a google alert for as well. Worst case, it'll pick up some of the topics and best case, you'll get even more information to store.

Looks like a Pilot Fude Brush Pen Kofude. Recognized it from my old set.

Sakura microns. They’re pretty easy to find at pretty much any art store. I think I’ve even seen them at wal mart before.

https://www.amazon.de/PIGMA-MICRON-Fineliner-Stifte-schwarz/dp/B004AQODNU/ref=mp_s_a_1_2/258-2170369-7779339?ie=UTF8&qid=1550415223&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=microns+pens&dpPl=1&dpID=41Y8DqcgcIL&ref=plSrch

Based on the text on the pen, it looks like a 5.0 Y & C Calligraphy Marker

this pen that looks like a cat!

/u/hannfrank (only person who's name I remember)

What kind of key opens a banana?

A monkey!

Alright! Reminds me of the notecard system as well.

Right now I'm using a fountainhead pen with Moleskine pocket notebooks and Leuchtturm A5's (dotted). I never really gave ink/paper longevity a thought. I really like this setup so I'll have to check if it fits your criteria. I really love the 0.2mm Uni-penn (these ones) but I'll be ordering the sakura pens you recommended.

I'm definitely tagging you as the go to archive person in here :D

I bought new combat dice and used these markers to color a ring around the base of the minis to distinguish nations.

I also have a replica of the One Ring so the Free Peoples Player can make lots of references to "my precious..."

A little late to the game, but I have a couple of cents on this topic as well. I own Tombows, the Faber Castell's mentioned below, as well as Pentel Sign Touch Pens, and Kuretake Fudes. I think a lot of the commenters hit the nail on the head re: Tombows. They can be tough to use and hard to control transitions from thick to thin lines. In my experience, this has less to do with the flexibility of the nib and more about the type of head the pen uses. Tombows have a pretty large fiber brush head, and it's not as "springy" as some other pens. This means when you let back on the pressure, you have to really gauge how much pressure you need to reduce to get a thinner line. A lot of pens with a smaller head, especially felt tipped pens, will be a lot more forgiving in terms of pressure variation.

If you do want to get some smaller pens, the FC are decent. They have fantastic color transfer, but I feel like they're scratchier than some of the other options that I have, and also a tad bit more expensive. I really like the Pentel Fude Touch Sign Pens. The head is a tiny bit smaller than the FC pens, so you won't be able to get quite as thick of a downstroke. If you want something more comparable in size to the FCs, Kuretake Fudebiyoris are pretty similar and also writes a bit smoother.

That said, I think it also depends on what you're going for. If you want consistent lettering early on, a felt tip pen with a smaller nib is your best bet. However, because they're so much easier to control, I find that if I use those exclusively for a while, the quality of my lettering deteriorates. Tombows force you to really learn to control your pressure. If your goal is to perfect lettering with all types of pens (felt, brush, watercolor, etc) and with all sorts of nib sizes, I think using Tombows to practice with is the best option.

Thank you kindly!! I use a kuretake sable brush pen: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001DMQIOG

I personally like the feel of using the sable hair brush vs other brush pens which I think use plastic or some other kind of synthesized hair?

My pen also has an adapter in it(purchased separately) so it lets me re fill and use any ink of choice, so far I like using this ink: https://www.amazon.com/Luxury-Brands-Noodlers-Bottle-19203/dp/B000WIUKIW

The white ink was drawn with this pen, so far it's been the most reliable white-on-black pen I've used(goes on with a clean smooth line with zero or little transparency or leaving a ball point pen line: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KK6X7CW

And then coloured with copic markers! 😄
Thank you again for your kind comment I really appreciate it!! 💕

Sketch on paper, digitize and then vectorize... or, if you want to do it by hand...

Sketch on paper... overlay with clear acetate, and then trace and clean with a rapidograph pen, or set of pens.

There are other brands, and packages, at different cost levels. This is close to the set I started with doing paste-up for screen printing, about 30 years ago.

https://www.amazon.com/Koh-I-Noor-Rapidograph-Stainless-Steel-Artists/dp/B001J5MBKW/ref=sr_1_2?crid=YKAQBYJXIJ7M&keywords=rapidograph+pen+set&qid=1550864648&s=gateway&sprefix=rapidograph%2Caps%2C166&sr=8-2

I always push people to go all in and drown in the ink! If you wanted to use the copic brush tips, I would recommend ignoring markers and using a pentel fude brush pen. The ink in the pen is crappy and smears alot, so I fill my pen with Dr. Martins ink. With this tool I can make alot of varied lines and now it's nearly the only brush I ever use for my linework.

If you can buy a set of fine-liners, I recommend Steadler pens. These help with the controlled smaller designs and lines. They don't erase very easily and they last forever.

I got a nice brush pen for Christmas so I just started getting into it also. While using it, I get the feeling that I don't have to follow all the rules as when using a dip pen. That makes it more creative and fun for me.

Your writing looks great! I cant keep my edges straight as inevitably my pressure is not consistent and therefore the thickness varies much more (but not in a good way).

There are oil-based Sharpies. I've heard several people mention that they use them to color their prints. Probably something like this.

Hmmm...maybe 80 pounds? I hope he doesn't overcharge you!!!

I'm in the U.S. and this Prime item includes these calligraphy pens, as calligraphy is this new hobby I'm picking up in efforts to add some relaxation in my life!!!

I used to etch my tools with my first initial and last name. My tools at home have been etched with the last 4 of my social. I was talking to a friend that used to be an investigator for the police department. That friend said that if someone is caught stealing or with stolen property, they'll usually check everything else in their possession. If your tools are marked with your name and drivers license number, the police will be able to contact you and return your items. Also, put the abbreviated state there as well. Cops can usually identify a drivers license number when they see it and will be able to look it up in their vehicle. I've started etching my tools with a small dremel brand engraver (model: 290-01). For my bigger items (i.e; drills, circular saws, and other powertools) I will etch them with name and drivers license number, but then I will also use a black or white paint marker to write my name on it. Sharpie has different size paint markers, don't use the regular sharpie markers because they wear off after a few weeks, the paint markers tend to last a lot longer. I've even made a few different size stencils and spray painted my name on the tools. I used Microsoft Word and selected the "Stencil" font and printed out stencils, laminated them, and then cut it out with an exacto knife. It takes some time, but those stencils are re-useable and tend to last awhile. I was in the Marine Corps and they trained us to mark everything. Even our tools in our toolboxes were marked with the toolbox number, drawer, and item number within the drawer. My underwear and socks were individually marked!!

Also, another thing that I've done in the past to quickly identify my tools from others is to put hockey tape on the handles of my power tools. There's also "GAFFERS Tape" that you can buy with different colors. They're tough like duct tape, but don't leave a sticky residue when the tape is removed. I don't use electrical tape because after awhile, it'll stop being sticky and will either fall off or will just float around the handle and gets pretty annoying. Oh, and sometimes if you're out in the heat and the adhesive gets warm and oozes off and onto your hands making your hands black and sticky. Hockey tape is the tape hockey players use on their hockey sticks and they come in different colors, so if you're a hot pink man, then wrap your handles in pink hockey tape. It's sort of like that tape that's on wooden baseball bats, works great for handles on your impact driver or circular saw. You can also write your name on that part as well. I mean, this stuff was make for the grips on hockey sticks! I think it'll work on your drill. Just a few ideas..

Any markers that have a chisel tip. Alcohol markers tend to bleed through pages so I wouldn't recommend them for note taking.

I haven't tried these products but you might want something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Yasutomo-Calligraphy-Markers-Chisel-Assorted/dp/B001DKLDL6/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1542045402&sr=8-9&keywords=water+based+chisel+tip+markers+chisel+tip+water+based+markers

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I5HPJ6/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvpv2_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=6375e697-f226-4dbd-a63a-5ec697811ee1&pd_rd_wg=f8fUa&pf_rd_r=3S1D3XEAW1585F1FK04F&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B000I5HPJ6&pd_rd_w=pFTZP&pf_rd_i=water+based+chisel+tip+markers+chisel+tip+water+based+markers&pd_rd_r=f2604c65-d156-4de0-afd5-4698e153c414&ie=UTF8&qid=1542045402&sr=1

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I recommend getting pigma microns they're the best imo. I use them for most of my line work. However, for practice and getting your technique down, I use uni pin

If you are just starting out then I would recommend the Kuretake No 13. It is a decent brush that can use Platinum converters.

Now not only is it a good starter brush pen that is refillable. This pen can also fit the natural sable hair brush refills if you care to upgrade without having to pay out for the Kuretake No 40/50 pen.

Here is a gallery from a past post where I used the natural brush heads in kuretake pens to give you an example. https://imgur.com/a/pBpHt#4

And lastly you really don't need a converter unless you really want to use them. Just syringe refill the cartridges when they are empty.

here it is! this is what I use

[This is Max] (http://imgur.com/a/VbH6k)

[This] (https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B002SZJZME/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2HKUH69CJQBJU&coliid=IRUI7PB6LNAV4) and [this] (https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0002MKBWI/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2HKUH69CJQBJU&coliid=I2I3ZJMSMD0HE) are the strongest catnip I've found. Max doesn't really react to catnip but that stuff? Instant nutcase.

[I <3 this so hard] (https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B017NNHUEU/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1QXNC833Q6U3W&coliid=I1R5LHUJ4990UR&psc=1) and [this too] (https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00K9ZMBEO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1QXNC833Q6U3W&coliid=I10XSZCNOL7QV3&psc=1)

I was just gifted [this] (https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00V84Q9DY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=14ZNZQWA660NB&coliid=I325TWT7JEH5PU) by u/rainbowterfly and it's really amazing. It's even cuter in person and it writes really well!

And last but not least, [this] (https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00C4R3HV6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=14ZNZQWA660NB&coliid=I3DXPA0Q9WGNL1&psc=1)

Hooray cats!

Anyone else here have a murder cat?

Here is what I use.

It's called a brush pen! I'm a big fan of Tombow's double sided brush pens - one side is small like the one I used in this thanks post and the other side is larger, which I also use for brush lettering! This exact one is here!

I doubt it. The wiki redirects you all over the place and it was just kinda weird. If you are willing to answer a question though Is this a decent brush pen? I will be using the cartridges and then refilling with fountain pen ink. If you have another suggestion also.

I want to enterrrrrrr!! :DDD will shipping to singapore be a problem? Here is something i have too many off, but you can never have too many refills. :P

Okay.

This is the big one. Where is the top of the head? The placement on the paper feels arbitrary, like it wasn't thought through first. Was it penciled out first to get the dimension and form right?
(If you use another sheet under it... draw it separately so there isn't markings on the paper edge of the top one and tape it underneath leaving the top untapped. Then straight into a dollar store frame and BAM no one will see it.)

The form of the piece next: this is usually pretty easy to accomplish using pencil first. Maybe you did, I can't tell from the picture. The most distracting things in the form is the vertical ridge on the helmet being all askance, and the two cheekbones being very very different. I see other symmetry issues but they aren't as obvious... (as far as symmetry goes, it's good to break it up and not have everything equal on both sides but the actual mask being different hurts it.)

Lastly, ballpoint pen. The level of devotion to crosshatching here is high, you deserve to treat yourself to a real tool. Spend $15 on some nice pens, your ballpoint pen isn't serving you. I like these things: https://www.amazon.com/Kuretake-Sumi-Brush-Pen/dp/B000EBJIKS/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1473923359&sr=8-11&keywords=Kuretake+Brush+Pen

Fun stuff, keep drawing!

Was this colored using watercolours and a brush or watercolour pens? If it was the brush, you might want to invest in some pens for easier control.

These are the pens I use

I've tried a lot of the pens out there. When I was starting out, stiffer pens like the pentel fude pens, Kuretake Fudegokochi, Zebra Fude, or some of the finer tombow were much easier to control. Later I branched out to larger tips like Ecoline, the Tombow dual-tips and the Kuretake Fudebiyori (and a bunch of other random pen types!) but those smaller, stiffer pens remain my recommendation for beginners.

I use http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B001DMO8ZW/ - a Kuratake Sumi Brush Pen

I very rarely write, and don't really spend any time learning to write, but when the urge does strike me, I'm very happy with the kuratake

I use this uni ball set mostly but for these I pretty much used the 0.1mm pen, they're super cheap compared to the other stuff that's out there.

I used sharpie oil based paint markers to paint the wood on the front foot pad. Takes a few coats to get it looking right and it will get chipped off with time, but you can always touch it up again.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U82275G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used this on dark blue surfaces
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AHW56PK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483630359&sr=8-1&pi=SL75_QL70&amp

They are oiled based though, I haven't tried adding a top coat yet but they seem to be as washable as the gundam markers.

If you want to paint them black, I have had great success using these
StaedtlerPigmentLiner. Pretty self explanitory, and really any fine tipped felt pen should work, but these are top notch.

I'd recommend getting a calligraphy set. Not the Old English calligraphy set, but one that has a pen in the style of a quill pen. Something like this one. Note that the tip is pointed, not flat. Something like this one. Then start practicing. If you look at the guides online, remember you just want to write in cursive, not the Old English style, etc.

In high school art class we did calligraphy and I have found that just the few months we spent on it has really helped me in deciphering handwritten documents (and this was over 15 years ago). Just knowing what letters are similarly formed and how things look when they run together when you're feeling lazy (r, e, m, n, etc) has really helped me.

Make sure you get some quality paper too. Since you're working will an ink well, things can get messy, so using good quality paper can help. You want something that will resist smudging, but won't bleed ink all over.

Edit: That person's handwriting is a wreck!

I got him this one
But I'm considering switching to this one just because it has different tips. I know nothing about these things. He's only 6 so he will be thrilled either way, but it would be nice to have it stick around for a while! If I were getting it for myself, I would get the second one ;)

http://www.amazon.com/Pentel-Pocket-Brush-Refills-FP10BP6A/dp/B00579OG36/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1453050182&sr=8-3&keywords=pentel+ink+brush+pen

Thank you! I basically copied this post

And yeah, I love a good brush pen. I used the Pilot Pocket Brush Pen.

I'm right there with you. I tried a few different things (pencil, ink, paints, chainsaw, markers) I stick with a sketchbook with paper that is smooth and between 150gsm to 180gsm weight paper. Such as Moleskine or Daler Rowney (don't get too good a sketchbook or you'll be afraid to ruin it) (oh and the Daler Rowney is a bit more toothy, rougher than the Moleskine)

I have some Mitsubishi fine liner pens. A Pentel brush pen. A few cheap pencils. (F is hard, b is soft etc) and a couple obvious bits like a ruler, hard and a soft rubber. You don't need them, but sometimes I'll splash some colour in with either light watercolour or alcohol markers. A lot of the time I'm just sketching with a biro pen or a cheap mechanical pencil.

Go nuts and absolutely test those mediums to destruction in your sketchbook.

Draw what you see, copy everything you like, don't try to draw exactly like certain artists too much, and look at a sweeping variety of art. And don't get caught up with making everything a masterpiece. Draw everything quick and light, get caught up on the details later. So often I get bogged down on toes or hands and half an hour later I've drawn a great stick figure with beautiful hands.

I'd love to see how you do, keep us updated!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002AF8XFM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_ApTIzb98NWR8D sketchbook

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002N5MBNO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_0qTIzbE96P7YC Pens

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000J6BAV8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_.rTIzbX47MR84 Pencils. Though you could just get a couple from your local stationery or art supply store.

For computer game art. I could recommend you get the cheap version of Clip Studio Pro for 25 dollars (really powerful comic illustration software) then snap a pic of what you have drawn and colour it in there, touch up the blacks of your line work etc. You can do it all with a mouse once you do your line work on paper.

Finally, wow I went overboard with this comment. Check out sketchbook vids on Youtube, for yourself, check out Scott Robertson, his vids are all about his students and his sketchbooks, all in the area of designing and rendering cool stuff. Here's a link with John Parks sketchbook LOT OF MECHS https://youtu.be/Rv-LVUCZWyU

You can get them on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Sakura-Pigma-Micron-Pen-Black/dp/B00C16VXXY

...in terms f what youre looking for the best bang for your buck is probably something like a Platinum Preppy in EF or a Platinum 3776 in UEF (more than your budget).

HOWEVER for your needs you might be better off getting one of these drawing pens: https://www.amazon.com/Staedtler-Pigment-Liner-0-2mm-308-0-2/dp/B00AHW56PK?ascsubtag=%5B%5Dst%5Bp%5Dcj5vdtlei00qau5y6t67lqu42%5Bi%5Dvjcu3n%5Bz%5Dm%5Bd%5DD%5Br%5Dgoogle.com&tag=thestrategistsite-20&th=1

Thats all about the ink, but generally the rapidograph ink is waterproof and fadeproof. I do my inks then watercolor on top with no problems. I have this set.

When you get comfortable with them it's a lot of fun to make yout own colors.

I got a these Tombow Fudenosuke pens on Amazon along with tracing paper. They are really awesome and good for a total beginner like me. They took a couple days to ship so I also went to a local art supply store and got Tombow Dual Tips in colors. They're a little more difficult to use, but fun when I'm doodling during the day.

I ordered these Pentels shimmery ones last week, but they are taking forever to ship. Won't get here until at least Feb 14.

tl;dr: get the Fudenosukes. And a Rhodia notebook if you don't already have a good one with soft paper :)

I bought this one recently and I absolutely love it.