Best electric plugs according to redditors

Just get a smart plug, it connects to wifi. name it "fan" and plug your fan into it. "Alexa turn on the fan".

https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Anywhere-Occupies-HS105/dp/B01K1JVZOE

I have a wemo plug myself.

TP-Link Smart Plug, No Hub Required, Wi-Fi, Control your Devices from Anywhere, Works with Alexa (HS100) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NAVNzbBDA1YT5

Ok so here is the breakdown of what I am doing and a couple more photos of the UI and videos of it in action.

Here is the configuration.yaml and ui-lovelace.yaml files on Github.

The main components that are currently being used on the front end are:

• TP-Link/Kasa WiFi switches/outlets
  
  • HS100, HS105, HS200, HS210, HS220
    
• TP-Link/Kasa WiFi bulbs
  
  • LB130, LB200, LB230
    
• Ecobee 4 with 4 remote sensors
  
• August Lock and Connect
  
• Automatic
  
• Harmony Hub
  
• Foscam cameras
  
  • C1, R2e, FI9928P, FI9900PR
    
• Abode security system
  
• Darksky forecast
  
• Speedtest
  
  I intend for the UI to be displayed on a few Fire HD8 tablets. One that will be centrally located on the main floor of the house. Two others will be used as nightstand clocks in the master bedroom.
  
  At a high level, all I have done is drawn the floor plan and layouts in Sketch and exported individual assets as pngs and position them within a picture-elements card mostly utilizing image and its state_image. I would basically just plop down the button or icon or whatever with style: "top":50% "left":50%. Once the asset was in the UI I would inspect it via Chrome's dev tools inspector and select the parent container that the style was being set on. I would then manually adjust the top and left percentages until I was satisfied. I would then update ui-lovelace.yaml to include the new values and double check them in the browser.
  
  For the buttons, currently the button background and button text are baked into the image but I intend to change that soon. Basically the indicator light is actually the same size as the whole button its just 95% of it is transparent.
  
  Here are some screen caps (since i just posted photos from my phone last night)
  
  Here are a couple videos of it in action:
  
  
• Flipping a couple switches
  
• Switching between tabs
  
  Thats all I can think of for now to answer the basics... I am more than happy to go deeper into anything anyone has any questions about

I would be happy with a 240V 50A NEMA 14-50

corecomps' had a post describing how to do it your self.

I am in the middle of finishing my basement, so I went ahead and added a NEMA 14-50 outlet to my garage. Took me 4 hours ('cause I'm slow, like to do things correctly, and I put a piece of scrap 2x4 behind the box to add support) and about $55 in materials:

• $8.89 NEMA 14-50 Industrial Grade Outlet
  
• $6.23 Wall plate
  
• $35.53 15 feet of 6-3 AWG NM-B wire
  
• A few bucks for a 2-gang 4"x4"x2.125" box and some 3/4" clamps for the box and electrical panel (I had left over boxes/clamps from my basement finish).
  
  For those curious, a permit for adding an outlet in my city is $1.00, though I am finishing my entire basement, so I paid $50 as a flat fee for remodel/addition work. Had to take a 2 hour 'homeowner electrical exam' on which I got over 100%.
  

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0178IC734/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466964540&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=smart+plug&dpPl=1&dpID=31D9FOxUODL&ref=plSrch

I have a couple, cheep, work great, good app, echo compatible.

Just cut the cord at the damaged spot, wire in a new plug and plug in to an extension chord to make up for the lost chord length. Probably your safest bet.

Works now.

Plug your kettle into a smart outlet.

"Alexa: Turn on Kettle."

People right now are using smart outlets such as the TP-Link Smart Plug or the WeMo Switch Smart Plug to control lamps, electric fans, Christmas trees, aquariums, etc.

3x Northern Lights From Sensi Seeds

1x [Mars Hyrdo] (https://www.amazon.de/MARS-HYDRO-Wachsen-Vollspektrum-Pflanze/dp/B078Y74D67/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1546344239&sr=8-1&keywords=mars%2Bhydro%2B600w%2Bled&th=1)
Pulling 217W from the wall, honestly cant complain with the results so far.
I would have went with a QB if I knew about them earlier on, will switch it out once this one runs out I think.

Avg Temp is 24 degrees or 75,2 fahrenheit - The light is super cool and has two massive fans above it. This entire grow, the temperature was never an issue.

1 x Secret Jardin Hydro Shoot 80 R2.00 80x80x160 cm - Honestly a bit too small for 3 plants, will be running 2 next time around.

2 x Smart Plug - I got these from another site, at a higher price but they have been great. They allow me to see my exact wattage from the wall, my usages over 24hours/7days/1month. You can build in a schedule for your light and intake fan - that's why I got 2. Its all via an app, which has a kill switch built in so if you need to turn the setup off in seconds, you can do that remotely.

1 x AC Infinity Intake Fan + Carbon Filter

1x AC Infinity Multifan

1 x C02 Bag

3 x 5 Gallon Smart Pots (20L)

Nutrients

• Plagron Grow (during veg)
  
  
• Plagron Bloom (during bloom)
  
  
• Plagron Green Sensation (Last 4 weeks of bloom)
  
  
  I have honestly no idea what I'm doing - I can provide an entire list of everything I ended up using if you want :)

i would run 30a 240v lines, 2 for now, 3 if you want more space in the future. thats 10amp wire, with 2 hots and a neutral, aka 10/2. same as dryer wire, its not too pricey. you would run that to a NEMA L6-30P socket, and get a PDU such as PDUMV30HV and plug each psu in to it using these plugs: IEC-320-C14 to IEC-320-C13
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-IEC-320-C14-IEC-320-C13-P004-003/dp/B00FBA1UH6/ref=pd_sim_147_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00FBA1UH6&pd_rd_r=RECR15Z2HECE04JZ425R&pd_rd_w=5VH7U&pd_rd_wg=qcHQ8&psc=1&refRID=RECR15Z2HECE04JZ425R
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-IEC-320-C14-IEC-320-C13-P004-003/dp/B00FBA1UH6/ref=pd_sim_147_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00FBA1UH6&pd_rd_r=RECR15Z2HECE04JZ425R&pd_rd_w=5VH7U&pd_rd_wg=qcHQ8&psc=1&refRID=RECR15Z2HECE04JZ425R
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-2620-Receptacle-Industrial-Grounding/dp/B00002NAT9/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1518548587&sr=1-2&keywords=L6-30P+socket

Oh, wow. He's right. You can repair it yourself. The cord will just be 3 inches shorter. Home Depot or Amazon will have replacement plugs. Should cost less than $10. Something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-Straight-Residential-Polarized-Non-Grounding/dp/B000FPAN84/

Things I'm still working on implimenting:

1. A small OLED screen to display current as well as 5 minute average temperature and humidity. I had this working on the breadboard but I screwed up my screen in my first attempt to move it to a prototyping board.
   
   
   
2. Replace the AM2302 so that I actually have humidity sensing again.
   
   
   
3. Build an automatic roller so that we don't have to open it up to roll the eggs several times a day. The trick to this is either getting a low enough continuous roll speed or else programming it to only turn on a few times a day. I'd prefer continuous rolling, but it needs to be slow enough to only do about 4 full egg turns per 24 hours. That's SUPER SLOW. I'll probably end up just doing intermittent rolling. If anyone has any thoughts/suggestions for this, I would love to hear it. All of my ideas so far seem overly complicated.
   
   -edit- I should also mention that this thing is COMPLETE OVERKILL. It does way more than it needs to and it was way more expensive (although much of the price was in reuseable stuff that I didn't already own like a soldering iron or stuff that left me with lots of leftovers for later projects, like wire) to build than pretty much any commercial incubator you can find on the market, almost all of which can get you near 100% hatch rates if you put in a bit of work to calibrate them. I did this mostly because I really like logging and monitoring data, and no commercial incubator gives you temperature or humidity logging abilities like I can get with the Pi. Also, I had wanted to start learning Python anyways, and I am someone who learns best when I have an explicit goal, so writing the control program worked great for that. Finally, I am using a 3b+ but this thing is simple enough that a pi zero could absolutely run it (probably most arduino boards too but I have no experience with those).
   
   Speaking of, here is the full parts list:
   
   Construction materials for the incubator itself, mostly plywood and insulation board
   Raspberry Pi 3 b+
   MCP9808 temp sensor
   AM2302 temp and humidity sensor
   3 b+ prototype board hat
   100W ceramic heat lamp
   lamp holder/bulb socket
   JBtek 4 Channel DC 5V Relay Module
   Wall plug (this thing, not sure what you are supposed to call it)
   Low Voltage DC Motor Speed Controller
   DC Motors Kit
   
   
   I can provide amazon links to most of those if people want, but the specific ones aren't that important. Which reminds me. Maybe my Google-Fu is weak, but I found surprisingly few options for 120V relay boards designed to work with arduino/raspberry pi. I really didn't need one with four relays but I didn't have a lot of options.
   

The Peanut Smart Plug sells for $15 on Amazon and pairs directly with Abode. https://www.amazon.com/Securifi-compatible-Remotely-Monitor-Appliances/dp/B00TC9NC82

and if you dont have a smart tv, you can get one of these and plug your tv into it (though it might not be a good idea to pull the plug on your tv all the time)

It only has five outlets, but I have this one and it is pretty good:

Zooz Z-Wave Plus S2 Power Strip ZEN20 VER. 2.0 with Energy Monitoring and 2 USB Ports, Works with Vera, Wink, SmartThings https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HAQHQ5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_S8H1Cb1YXH4XX

It's super easy, you need a replacement plug not unlike this one, wire cutters, and wire strippers; and wire the plug according to this diagram.

Its still for sale from the SmartThings store https://www.samsung.com/us/smart-home/smartthings/outlets/samsung-smartthings-outlet-2018-gp-u999sjvldaa/

Frankly, though.... I don't know why you'd want to get it when there are dozens of other zigbee outlets on the market for a fraction of the cost. I'm a fan of the Peanut outlets, at $15. https://smile.amazon.com/Securifi-compatible-Remotely-Monitor-Appliances/dp/B00TC9NC82/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Peanut+outlet&qid=1571313801&sr=8-1

Since you specifically mention Z-wave, I'm going to assume you will be using a hub. I know that at least with Wink, you can set a robot to turn on/off the lamp along with the main switch.

If you want these to be able to function independently, from the same switch, it would have to be a HomeSeer as they are the only manufacturer that does this (and they own the patent on that technology (AFAIK)

Other options include:

Wink Relay - (although it's probably more than a HomeSeer switch) you would at least get a cool display.. and 2 "smart buttons" that you can program to control any shortcut that you wanted... and also an intercom if you installed a second one.


Echo/Dot/Google Home + an external smart plug - TP Link will pair with either of those without requiring an additional hub. The lamp would be voice controlled.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Anywhere-Assistant-HS100/dp/B0178IC734/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511199240&sr=8-3&keywords=tp-link+smart+plug



EDIT

You could also replace the bulbs in the lamp with zigbee bulbs - Either paired directly to a hub, Hue - or the Echo Plus.

At the moment, even the TP-Link Smart Plug is $25 on Amazon. That's a great deal. I have a couple myself and have never had any issues.

EDIT: £24 on UK Amazon also, by the way.

I like the combination of a wifi switch:
TP-LINK Smart Plug, Wi-Fi, Control your Devices from Anywhere (HS100), Works with Amazon Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NCwmyb931C8ER

with a remote camera:
D-Link Day & Night Wi-Fi Camera with Remote Viewing (DCS-932L) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004P8K24W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3EwmybF52B1TJ

Then with your phone you can water... or set a schedule.

If there is an on/off switch on the coffee pot that actually switches it on and off. And it's not a spring-loaded toggle. In other words, as soon as it has power it comes on:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07N3CK3MM/?coliid=IUD48VO2ALRXA&colid=2OTHI4Q5DKXP3&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

or

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07DJ6W63H/?coliid=IW9WF1WA6CRX8&colid=2OTHI4Q5DKXP3&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Otherwise, SwitchBot is the only thing available now.

Of course, if you're feeling brave, open up the coffee maker and wire it to be 'always on', bypassing it's internal switch.

All you need is the cable (in whatever lengths you desire from any reputable hardware store) and (2) Hubbell's (1) [male](https://www.amazon.com/Hubbell-HBL5266C-5-15P-Black-White/dp/B002QMYALK
) & (1) female.

(Those links are to the ones I keep in my kit, and the brand I prefer.)

Some of the less intuitive acccessories I've found helpful:

• Foam/Soft padding for under printer. This helps reduce the vibrations from the printer traveling into the surface it's sitting on and producing additional noise (though the i3 MK3 is supposed to be remarkably quiet.) I use a rubber paver, but I've seen foam mats or other soft-cell products.
  
• If your table is shaky, a paving stone can also help eliminate wobble and vibrations
  
• I didn't plan to have an enclosure since I wasn't interested in ABS, but even my PLA prints had a little bit of warping and pulling off the bed. Adding a casual enclosure made of plastic sheeting did wonders. (Not my writeup, but same idea. I used 6-mil leftover from work for durability.)
  
• I wasn't originally comfortable leaving the printer home alone printing, but even a moderately-size print takes most of a day, so I added a Wyze IP Camera, a TP-Link Internet-Controlled Outlet, and a smoke-detector to my setup. Now I can monitor the printer from anywhere, and at the very least kill power if it looks like things are going awry. An Octoprint setup would be more snazzy.
  
  Here's the tools I use most frequently in 3d printing and assembly - I suspect you'll have most of these from modelling work:
  
  
• Digital Calipers for measuring existing objects and calibrating printer.
  
• Putty Knife for removing prints from bed.
  
• Metric Hex Key Set with Ball Ends for making adjustments to printer/adding parts
  
• #1/#2 Philips head screwdriver
  
• Precision Philip Screwdriver
  
• Assorted M3 Hardware. (I standardized on M3, you could choose another size or diversify). I recommend some heat-fit threaded inserts at any size.
  
• Cheapie Rotary Tool with cutoff wheel, sanding/buffing attachments, engraving bit.
  
• Needle Files
  
• Sandpaper - 120, 220, 400 grit.
  
• Superglue/CA Glue
  
• Needle-nose Pliers, nice and fine tip
  
• Flush Cutters, I'm partial to the actual Hakkos.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-LINK-HS100-TP-Link/dp/B0178IC734 my dude

$29.95 TP-Link Smart Plug, Wi-Fi, Works with Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OKy3xbNHF58GX

1. Buy this plug- https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002NAT9 (have electrician swap the outlet)
   
   
2. Get a PDU- I use this one . https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0046JS1ES (buy the used ones for ~$315 or so)
   
   
3. Snag a few of these cables to run from PDU to PSU's - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008ABO7PA
   
   
   The PDU is 30amp, but good luck finding a 50amp PDU. You can run ~6ish mining rigs off of this setup (6 GPU per rig)

Yea, that won't work. You are trying to plug a 14-30P into a 14-50R.

The plug is a 50 amp unit, and the wall socket is rated at 30/50.

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-279-Receptacle-Industrial-Grounding/dp/B00009W3AA

https://www.generatorjoe.net/html/web/outlet/nemaspecs.gif

You can just put on a two prong plug and replace the outlet you're plugging into to a GFIC which will trip. I think that's the least complicated way to do it..

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-101-P-Residential-Polarized-Non-Grounding/dp/B000FPAN84/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1509926583&sr=8-1&keywords=110+plug+2+blade

For just the power cable you can probably go to an electronics store and get a replacement. Take the frayed wires, get a clean cut, strip the wrapper from the positive and ground, and install. Here's an example from amazon.com:
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-Straight-Residential-Polarized-Non-Grounding/dp/B000FPAN84/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457800553&sr=8-1&keywords=replacement+electric+plug

If you've got prime or a drop spot near you you can get it shipped to your door and spinning vinyl tomorrow afternoon.

something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-101-P-Residential-Polarized-Non-Grounding/dp/B000FPAN84

Almost all chargers accept 110-240 V or so now (some only to 220, etc). So just get the Chromebook you want and slap this guy on the charger:

http://www.amazon.com/EU-PLUG-i-Trek-European-Plug-Adapter/dp/B0012S304W/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1382457482&sr=1-4&keywords=europlug+adapter

$4 and you're done. I wouldn't get the HP 11 since the Acer C720 is just the better value and far more powerful (unless you MUST have an ISP screen).

It is annoying how you can get a WiFi plug for $7 but a zigbee/zwave plug costs 3-4x as much. This one is pretty cheap https://www.amazon.com/Securifi-compatible-Remotely-Monitor-Appliances/dp/B00TC9NC82

Yes, SmartThings could certainly do this... personally, I have a timer set up for a heater in my bathroom. Once I turn on the heater, the timer turns it back off after 45 minutes.

However, I'm not sure you NEED SmartThings to accomplish this... I think you probably need to just purchase a smart plug or smart bulb that is compatible with Stringify. It looks like the TP-Link Smart Plug is compatible, or if you just want to buy a lamp, the TP-Link LB100 is listed on Stringify's website.

The nice thing about doing a lamp is that you get dimming, so you can have it slowly dim up in the morning when the alarm goes off, or dim it to a low level if you need to get up in the middle of the night.

Personally, I've never used stringify, but looking at some of their flow examples, I see no reason it can't do exactly what you're looking for with the purchase of compatible equipment!

What's great about OP's new pot is it's mechanically controlled so you could use a regular smart plug to control it from your phone.

those look like chinese private label items.

if you already have a power strip, why not a tP-Link smart plug or Wemo Plug
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Control-Anywhere-HS100/dp/B0178IC734

or
https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Wi-Fi-Enabled-Works-Amazon/dp/B01NBI0A6R

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Control-Anywhere-HS100/dp/B0178IC734/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1502957197&sr=8-3&keywords=smart+plug

/u/balance07

/u/danger-moose

All time low price: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0178IC734

Free Same-Day delivery. Voice control all the things (with Echo)!

Edit: BOOOO! Only one per customer. WTF.

Seems there are a lot of home automation products being given the "Alexa" discount as shown by checking out with this: TP-Link Smart Plug, No Hub Required, Wi-Fi, Control your Devices from Anywhere, Works w/ Amazon Alexa & Google Assistant (HS100)

The LIFX says it's a 25% discount in checkout. Nice find!

You need to get a Zwave compatible power strip, you will also need a hub (I suggest Samsung Smartthings)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HAQHQ5I/ref=asc_df_B01HAQHQ5I5092107/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B01HAQHQ5I&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167122786755&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10857855622259649994&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9013116&hvtargid=pla-305123449089

It doesn't make any noise when turning on or off so must be. It's the tp link mini smart plug hs105: TP-Link Smart Plug Mini, No Hub Required, Wi-Fi, Works with Alexa and Google Assistant, Control your Devices from Anywhere, Occupies Only One Socket (HS105) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K1JVZOE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_X9YEAb80ZZGX1

Long warmup time is one of the downsides of HX machines. Twenty minutes is about the minimum.

I've got my Appartamento on a scheduled switch, one of these:

https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Anywhere-Occupies-HS105/dp/B01K1JVZOE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1496170180&sr=8-2&keywords=tp+link+outlet

$35 has the machine turn on an hour before I wake up and if I'm on the way home and know I want coffee, the internet integration means I can click it on from my phone so it's hot when I get home.

There's some debate on Home Barista on whether you can leave HX machines on that long, and the consensus is mixed. If you're interested in doing so, check the site. I determined that $35 was a fair enough price to not have a 1000+ watt machine running all night.

Lastly, congrats on starting law school. I graduated in 2012. It's a fun time.

I have fully automated reboots using TP-Link HS100 (https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Control-Anywhere-HS100/dp/B01KBFWW0O/).
I use ncat to send binary payloads to turn them on and off via a batch file like this:

echo cycling power for tplink1
..\ncat -v 192.168.1.37 9999 < turnoff.bin
timeout 10
..\ncat -v 192.168.1.37 9999 < turnon.bin

I then set a rule in awesomeminer to detect when the machine is offline for more than 5 mins and execute the batch file. I've also created batch files kill miners when they crash and doesn't require a reboot.

Sure, here's a few:

https://smile.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Power-Switch-ZEN15-Humidifiers/dp/B07578W7KY/

https://smile.amazon.com/HAOZEE-Automation-Extender-Monitoring-SmartThings/dp/B0781XZYWR/

https://smile.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW096-ZW096/dp/B00VQISOCG/

With respect I asked you to show me how these were certified as you claim. You did nothing of the sort. The best you showed is that these have special nylon bodies to prevent breakage of the plug body itself which says nothing about the quality of the wiring or it's ability to prevent fire or wiring disasters. Take a look at this:

Leviton listed as industrial for $8.65
Leviton Specs

Nylon body, Industrial Grade, 10 year warranty

You exactly proved my point. People take something out of context (in this case the example part number Tesla uses in their documentation) , start circulating it as "fact" on the internet then justify paying far more than they need then needlessly argue the point without any real data scaring people away from useful solutions. =(

It's a 5 minute job to replace the plug. Cut off the old one, as close as possible to the plug, strip the rubber back, strip the three individual wires, and wire put them in the replacement plug (something like this would do fine).

The replacement plug should tell you exactly how long to make your cuts and strips.

You should be able to buy plugs like that at any home repair/hardware store.

I've only been in the trade for 7 months so to be honest I'm not exactly sure. I think you'd need to find out how many amps each light draws, and if it's more than 15 combined then you might wanna start decreasing the number of lights until it's under 15amps, this is the standard ampacity of household receptacles. You might be able to get away with a little over but like I said I don't know a huge amount about this exact application. More people will comment soon with a much better understanding of the concept. Here's a link for a plug head on Amazon, currently on sale. Leviton 515PR 15 Amp 125 Volt, Straight Blade Rubber Plug, NEMA 5-15P, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FKBZ7M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_b8o5AbHV9APYF

The writing on the wire is the maximum rating of the wire. Parts of Europe use 240 v as the standard mains voltage while North America and other places use 120 v. The heater was made with the 300 v cable as it could then ship anywhere and the manufacturer put the plug on at the last minute once they knew where it was going to be shipped.

The standard is 120 volts average, but the actual voltage out of the wall varies a little bit. The plug is rated to 125 volts so it doesn't burn out when the voltage drifts a little above 120 v. There are additional safety factors on top the 125 v rating as well.

A 125 volt plug is fine. Just make sure the plug can handle the wattage of the heater. Your heater is a 1500 w device, which is on the upper end of what you will find for a residential device and not all replacement plugs are rated the 1500 watts. Any 125 v 15 amp plug with a ground will work.

This is first listing on amazon. There are bajillion places to get them though.

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-515PR-Straight-Blade-Rubber/dp/B000FKBZ7M/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1550644370&sr=8-5&keywords=replacement+electrical+plug

Just replace the plug on the PDU with a replacement plug. The worst thing that would happen is the house's circuit breaker pops if you try to pull more than 15 amps on the circuit. The 15 amp plug also works in a 20amp outlet. Its pretty much a win-win for your situation. This is what I did when I got a UPS that had a 20amp plug, but I only had 15amp sockets at the time.

If you can't replace the whole cord, then get a polarized replacement plug like this: http://smile.amazon.com/Leviton-000-515PR-000-Black-Rubber-Grounded/dp/B000FKBZ7M/ref=pd_bxgy_60_img_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=00CKYASEEQZXHD5FPJST

You cut off the damaged plug, strip the insulation back, strip the inner wires, and connect to that with screw terminals.

Not sure what the needs of the specific machine are... but something like this might work.
http://www.amazon.com/Prime-PS010608-8-Feet-Replacement-Supply/dp/B0022NH7G8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1416936558&sr=8-3&keywords=replacement+power+cord

However I might not be so willing to plug it right in unless you have some idea of what and how to fix these units. I know from some things I've read they can be a little temperamental and require some basic maintenance/care/lubrication.

They also do make these as well, and you can get them from just about any home center
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-Straight-Residential-Polarized-Non-Grounding/dp/B000FPAN84/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416936680&sr=8-1&keywords=replacement+plug&pebp=1416936666278

something like this...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0015P708Y/ref=sr_pogo_home_improvement_display_on_website_4?sr=4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65
should cost 4 or 5 bucks

No. Get a three prong adapter.

You have what's called an universal power supply, good from 100 volts to 240 volts and between 50Hz and 60Hz, which covers all power sources across the world..

All you need is just a converter plug to adapt your existing plug to mate with the outlets where you're traveling to.

As for your phone - honestly, when I travel internationally I use my laptop as my power supply for everything else, my iPad and phone and ear piece. This way I only have to deal with one plug.

As for converter plug, I don't recommend any of the cheap shit. Seriously they're terrible and likely to electrocute yourself. I only ever buy "SF Cable" products. For example this. They're injection molded versus that glued plastic shit. And stay away from the swiss-army knife adapters. They're just as bad. Get the correct adapter(s) that you need for where you're going even if you need to by a few of them.

Good Luck!

Echo Plus (2nd Gen) and a couple of Peanut Plugs.

I've been using these ones from amazon.ca. https://www.amazon.ca/Securifi-Systems-CA-PP-WHT-US-CA-Appliances/dp/B00TC9NC82

If you manage to grab the Securifi Almond 2015 or newer router you can even do a firmware update which will allow you to monitor power usage.

For SmartThings you can buy any generic ZigBee or Zwave plug. I use the Securify Peanut with my SmartThings and it works great, and only $20. Been way more reliable than my WeMo which always end up disconnected from WiFi. Only catch was I had to go on the website and change the device type to outlet after first connecting it, took all of 10 seconds. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TC9NC82/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511422314&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=zigbee+peanut&dpPl=1&dpID=311Cnh3SMaL&ref=plSrch

Or $27 Zwave module if you want dimming. This one worked right after pairing, no website. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N7NPRSB/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1511422525&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=zwave+lamp+module&dpPl=1&dpID=410InUO-CSL&ref=plSrch

Is your litterbox enclosed? Because a good option if you're of the tinkering type would be to take one of those sewer tubes and attaching it to the top of the enclosure, then running the other end to the nearest window, attaching it to a window fan set to blow outward (towards the great outdoors) and insulating the window part with some foam board to save on the energy bill. The easy way to control the fan would be to unplug and replug it. A better way would be to use a smart outlet adapter to control it with your smart device, and the best option would be to set up a sensor that detects when the box has been used and waits until the cat leaves and turns on the fan until manually turned off/time limit is reached.

edit 1: make sure you use some sort of fencing to cover the hole for the sewer pipe, we don't want cat nuggets :P

"Alexa, order echo dot", "No x2".
"Alexa, order TP Link Smart Plug", "No x2".

Log into Amazon and add these two items manually to cart to check out...
Echo Dot (black): https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01DFKC2SO
TP-Link Smart Plug: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734


Items (2): $79.98
Shipping & handling: $0.00
Alexa : -$12.90
Alexa: -$20.00
TP-Link Promo: -$24.99
Total before tax: $22.09

These ones do: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734

this is the wifi plug. No it is not for outdoors, but I rigged something up like this to make it work. Seems to be holding up well so far!!!

I picked up two TP-Link HS100 plugs and two HS110 plugs on sale for $80 combined and love them. The HS100 (same as HS110, but without power monitoring features) is currently $23.95 on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Amazon-Electronics-Anywhere-HS100/dp/B0178IC734

The control software may not be as powerful as what is available for the WeMo, but it works well for me. It includes remote network control, timers, schedules, etc. They also have native integration with the Echo, so there is no need for IFTTT. On the other hand, if you want to use IFTTT, look elsewhere, because they don't currently support it. The software also doesn't support plug groups, but the Alexa software does, so that solved that problem for me.

Setup was an absolute breeze and they have been rock solid. They also retain their settings when unplugged and moved.

Whatever you buy, it will probably work with most devices that have a "hard" power switch instead of a "soft" switch. Pull cord light switch? Yep, pretty much any of them will work.

I think you're going to have to drop the IR requirement. You can replace it with an Echo or Echo Dot for voice control. Then you can use pretty much any smart plug (although some may require a hub).

These wifi plugs from TP Link have been getting pretty good reviews lately.

I have the TP Link ones (this) but there are several brands. I have one regular and one energy monitoring. Just make sure it can do 15A if you’re going to use it with an AC.

you can get a 'smart plug' for $30 that will do this.. no hub or special bulb required.

tplink smartplug

I have a mixed environment. I have several z-wave devices because I wanted the aeon multisensors and decided to try the switches while I was at it. I also have 20ish Insteon switches and the usb plm. For switches I would pick Insteon 10/10 times again. When I bought the switches in 4-packs it came out to $37/switch putting it roughly in line with z-wave for price. The difference that sold me was for that price I got instant device feedback on state change instead of waiting for the weird way z-wave has to do it because of patents and them not wanting to license it. I also had a much simpler time setting it all up.

I have owned a few Insteon items including the plm for about 8 years, with the plm finally failing about a year ago. I've read that they used to use crappy capacitors but the new ones are built with better components. So far the new plm is working like a charm. I've also got the old one around to try swapping out capacitors to see if that fixes it. The grand majority of switches I put in about 3 years ago with no issues yet.

For smart plugs I tried some aeon z-wave plugs but eventually settled on https://www.amazon.com/Kasa-Smart-Wi-Fi-Plug-TP-Link/dp/B0178IC734. You don't need to register it with their site to be able to access data from it locally, it is reliable which the z-wave ones were not, and I could easily load data into influxdb to view in grafana.

I still have yet to try the Insteon water sensors, but for any other sensor type I would go z-wave. price+features make that a no brainer.

As far as the company going anywhere, I met a dev that worked there a year ago and it sounded like they suck at making software for their cloud offering, but their hardware business is still going very strong.

I'm using a TP-Link HS100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734/

They were cheap when I ordered them a while back. It's been working fine.

This isn't really a tech support subreddit, FYI.

Either way, a lot of wifi enabled "smart" devices like bulbs and outlets (such as TP Link's Kasa line) actually use their servers (the cloud) to control devices. This means that the devices can be controlled from anywhere as long as you have internet, the "smart" device has internet, and their company's servers are working. I just turned my bedroom lights on and off and I'm 15 miles from home.

Here is an example device.

The downside is that if you aren't connected to the internet, or if the company stops supporting the product, your "smart" devices cease to be "smart" and are just expensive dumb devices.

Edit: Devices that have a hub often use more local methods of communication like Zigbee, Z-Wave, Bluetooth, etc. That's not to say that the "hub" device can't be internet connected and controlled away from home, but if you want a single outlet that you can control away from home you likely want to avoid the extra cost of a hub anyway.

I'm running a TP-Link HS100 and it's been great! It was easy to connect to my wifi, and the mobile app is easy to use. It also retained all settings through a power outage a couple of months ago; as soon as the power returned it turned itself back on.

Next step is to add a IP cam to the tent, so I don't have to stick my head in there so often.

Christmas lights and then something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Control-Anywhere-HS100/dp/B0178IC734/ref=pd_sim_60_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0178IC734&pd_rd_r=5AQH7B77TK4GH3HW6JSG&pd_rd_w=wCz3d&pd_rd_wg=0Aak8&psc=1&refRID=5AQH7B77TK4GH3HW6JSG

You don't need a hub for this

I just got one of these for my birthday. I have a string of white christmas lights on my porch that I can now turn on and off using the Echo.

You download the app on your phone to get it setup and then add the skill to Echo and say "Alexa turn on the porch lights" and it works. Really easy to setup.

https://smile.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Control-Devices-Anywhere-HS100/dp/B0178IC734/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479819310&sr=8-1&keywords=tplink+smart+plug

I'm thinking of getting something like:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Control-Anywhere-HS100/dp/B0178IC734/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1503112143&sr=8-15&keywords=amazon%2Becho&th=1

For my current soundbar that way it works with Alexa, What do you think?

I just use a smart outlet. I have TP-Link one that is rated for 15A, like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_eNk4DbR27T919

Thanks for the input. Like this switch and this outlet?

Just getting back to this thread. Holy shit, you are amazing!

A) First time hearing about Ride. Awesome job!
B) Didn't realize the IFTTT support spawned from this thread. Even more awesome.

I appreciate your hard work... Sending some beer money your way :-D You deserve it because this will probably end up saving my life. Or at least prevent a couple broken bones.

---
Also, being in the US, I ordered a slightly different smart socket, and also a cheap broken-screen ipod touch so I can use it to cut off the charging while I'm away.

I am very tempted to make a youtube video about this whole thing when I get it set up.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0178IC734/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1

Works with Google Assistant/Google Home.
"hey google...turn on the vape"

I don't know exactly how I did this, but I just got a TP Link Smart Plug for $8.58 with tax.

I asked Alexa to re-order a cheaper smart plug mini that I had ordered earlier today, thinking why not, you get a credit for your first Alexa re-order, right? And instead she offered me the TP Link Deal. I am really confused.

Ninja edit: Apparently there are some glitches going on.

This is the one I bought, it's seventeen bucks:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0178IC734/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And here's the heater I've got pointed at my feet right now, it was a whopping $28:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TKDQ5C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is pretty much the exact same setup I was planning on doing in my bathroom remodel that is currently in process. I was going to plug my amp into this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0178IC734/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Let me know how your setup goes.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0178IC734/

$29.99 is pretty much the standard price, however, as with anything on Amazon, that price varies widely at times. I use camelcamelcamel.com to track a number of items, including these, and pick them up a couple at a time whenever the price drops to $22 or lower. For Cyber Monday, you could get one on sale by ordering through Alexa, and that deal was posted in this sub. Also watch the price on the 2-pack, sometimes that's a better deal per unit.

They've been consistent performers for me, and one nice feature is that they remember their settings through power outages. Their biggest annoyance is their size; you pretty much lose an entire double outlet unless you plug them into a short extension cord or a power strip. They also don't link to IFTTT, which I know is important to some people.

Not the manufacturer, just a regular guy who loves gadgets and toys. I've had this thing in my living room, which has a really high ceiling, for years and yes, I genuinely recommend it. It's amazing for setting the mood in a dark room, very cool and soothing. You can even adjust the level of aurora. Would work in a bedroom too if you're into that sort of thing. I have Amazon Echo so I hooked it up with a TP-Link smart plug and now can just say "Alexa, turn on the stars" and it works. Great party trick when friends are over. Also a real panty dropper when you're getting cozy with the ladies. Trust me on this and get one. You won't regret it.

>Insignia

i have the same problem so i bought a couple of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017EUTHC0

ended up only needing 1 though because they are like 1.5" long and just one helped the insignia clear the brackets.

I made my own overflow box that I 3d printed.
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/dXNkANrABFp-mini-aquarium-overflow-pump-v2

You can also DIY one with tubes or cups or buy one off amazon. It's literally just two boxes connected by a siphon.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AArgrqZLyvA

The Wifi plug is a built in timer, you can run a schedule and control it with an app.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K1JVZOE

If you're going to go remote outlet and are OK with smart home stuff, I really like these from TP-Link if you're OK with "smart home" type stuff.

I've had some for about a year now and they've worked really nicely for misc. stuff around my (primarily lights).

for $5 more the Plug Mini is a better option:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Control-Anywhere-HS100/dp/B01K1JVZOE/ref=gbps_tit_m-3_62d6_ada80ab9?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=ffcb75c7-e01d-4198-b44a-8ee857d262d6&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=14611812011&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=VRBXMTHZCS89MZNSA860&th=1

You can do this on the cheap but you'll have to compromise on a few things.

​

You'll need a smart plug that does not require a hub. I like the TP-Link smart plug.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Occupies-HS105-Wall-Light-Electronic-Component-switches/dp/B01K1JVZOE/ref=sr_1_8?crid=JC3FOI5287VF&keywords=tp+link+smart+plug&qid=1550610795&s=gateway&sprefix=tp+link+%2Caps%2C215&sr=8-8

​

I only have experience with Android, but you can use Google Assistant on your phone to voice activate the switch. I find that the mic on my S8+ doesn't always hear me correctly so I like using a Google Home Mini better.

​

I believe you can do the same thing if you download the Alexa app on your phone.

​

The problem with smart plugs is that you can only control the light with your phone. If the outlet is wired to a light switch, you need to make sure the light switch is always on.

I'm thinking that perhaps this was one of the trade-offs to get to market. As technology marches on, things tend to get smaller. I had the same complaint as you but I found smaller outlet switches that you can stack on top of each other on a standard outlet by TP-Link (TP-Link Smart Plug, Wi-Fi, Works with Alexa, Only Occupies one Socket (HS105),Wall-Light, Electronic-Component-switches, 1-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K1JVZOE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qAT1BbAV1Y4RD). Honestly, now I have a surplus of those things as I've moved to smart power strips (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071ZGDDQG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_OJT1BbP8K2Y6R). To take it a step further, might even consider these (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GB7WFZH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_ZLT1Bb49TWG2S).

There is always a solution.

great thanks, is this the one? https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Required-Anywhere-Assistant-HS105/dp/B01K1JVZOE/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1542196857&sr=8-5&keywords=Tp+link

If I understand your question correctly, as long as your truck is parked within WiFi Range you could buy one of these smart plugs, then use IFTTT to set up a trigger using the Weather Underground service in conjunction with the TP-Link Kasa service to create an applet that will turn the outlet on if the temperature drops below a certain limit (in this case 32° f). You could also set up another applet to turn the outlet off if the weather rises above a certain temp or turn it off at a certain time in the morning (when you leave for work for example).

This might sound more difficult to set up than it actually is. Creating a new applet is as simple as tapping a few buttons in an app on your phone and there are even ones that already exist out there to do what you want, all you have to do is turn them on.

You should be able to use any smart WiFi outlet as long as it has IFTTT support. I just suggested the TP-Link one because I have a few and I found they work well.

I got this one with an echo dot:

TP-Link Smart Plug Mini (1-Pack) -- No Hub Required, Wi-Fi, Control your Devices from Anywhere, Occupies Only One Socket, Works with Alexa and Google Assistant (HS105) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01K1JVZOE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4efUBbAW41N01

I like the features and its pretty easy to set up.

Well there's a mini now same retail price as the old one, they're just discounting to get rid of stock I bet

Cheap usually doesn't mean reliable-drama free performance. For that I'd recommend TP-Link Smart Plugs

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Occupies-HS105-Wall-Light-Electronic-Component-switches/dp/B01K1JVZOE/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=tp-link+smart+plug&qid=1572647565&sr=8-7

TP-Link (and other brand) Smart Plugs like this one have energy monitoring on them. They are supposed to show you how long that SmartPlug has been in “ON” status today, the past 7 days and the past 30 days.
This particular one is showing runtimes of 17 hours and we aren’t even 12 hours into the day. Not to mention, this particular one is connected to a space heater that hasn’t been on for more than 10-12 hours in the past year, let alone today.

The deal is $40 for the pair (ref), individuals are still $25.

What about this.

Zooz Z-Wave Plus Power Switch ZEN15 for 110V AC Units, Sump Pumps, Humidifiers, and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07578W7KY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RWTwDb36VCV6A

It can monitor the power level, and send an alert when it spikes above a threshold.

Then your hub can trigger automations based on that alert.

The Zooz ZEN15 has been the go too everywhere I've seen. I have 3 of them (Dishwasher, Washer, Dryer)

Stating the obvious here but these won't work for electric dryers.

https://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Power-Switch-ZEN15-Humidifiers/dp/B07578W7KY/

Is the pump plugged into an outlet? If so, why not get a zwave power switch that reports how many amps are being drawn. https://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Power-Switch-ZEN15-Humidifiers/dp/B07578W7KY/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=zwave+cord&qid=1557887622&s=gateway&sr=8-2

You'd also need a zwave hub if you don't have one. Personally think it's good to keep your smart home tech separate from your security tech.

Since you say "outlet", perhaps a z-wave on/off module with load sensing would work for this, but I'd be concerned that it could turn off power to the pump (maybe get one with a relay, and jumper the output to always on?)

You could use a current transformer to detect the power drawn by the pump in a non-intrusive manner, but most such products are kind of expensive unless you build your own. These are especially useful for hardwired devices.

Personally, I bit the bullet and bought a Multi-CT monitoring solution for $$$ (TED Pro Home)

What country are you in? If you have a scriptable hub, I think you can do this with relative ease.

You'll need switchable outlets with power reporting functionality and enough current handling to power the heater or microwave individually. https://smile.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Power-Switch-ZEN15-Humidifiers/dp/B07578W7KY/ something like this may work if you're in the USA and have a z-wave hub.

You would have to create a script/automation that checks the reported power consumption from the microwave, and if microwave wattage > say 100 watts, turn off the heater. Add a second automation that turns the heater back on when microwave wattage drops below 50 watts for 1 minute.

Note: The sensing and controlling logic for this will take a few seconds to trigger. I'm saying this will work because you've said the breaker will pop "eventually". If the breaker pops in under 30 seconds, I'd say you're out of luck without rewiring the circuit or building an uninsured DIY device that would cause more problems than solutions.

Like this? Not yet released but soon.

Edit: This should also be what you want.

Or if you need more outlets.

Thats a twist lock with the correct c13 end for a computer / bitmain power supply yeah. 14 gauge is nice too... thats what I use from my PDU's to each machine. The 3 prong wont fit the outlet in your picture though, you'll need to rewire it to something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-2620-Receptacle-Industrial-Grounding/dp/B00002NAT9/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_23_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=AB56ZCHD7BGJW6QN1DGH
Should be a really simple job for any electrician... just need a box, the outlet and a few minutes.
If you switch out the outlet you could also run one of these:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tripp-Lite-PDU-Basic-208V-240V-30A-20-Outlet-15-ft-Cord-PDU1230/112826455467?epid=1837218544&hash=item1a44fb15ab:g:Nz4AAOSw2cNakT4K
which will let you run the number of miners that outlet is capable of (30 amp). 30 amps * 80% = 24 usable amps. Each miner runs around 6amps on 240, so 4 s9's safely from the one outlet (through a PDU of course).

Below are most of parts that are needed for the kettle and electronics controller. I don't think I forgot anything. You would obviously need to be a little handy and have some tools like files, a drill, etc.

--

Let me know if you have any other questions!

--



Item| Count | Cost | Link
---|---|----|----
Kettle - SS Brewtech 15 gal|1|$239.00|https://www.homebrewsupply.com/ss-brewtech-15-gallon-stainless-steel-kettle.html
Weldless 1.5" TC|1|$24.00|https://www.brewhardware.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=TC15WLF
Hole saw for 1.5" weldless TC|1|$19.00|https://www.brewhardware.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=holesaw40
Pump|1|$94.99|https://www.brewhardware.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=Mark2SS
Tri-Clamp Fitting|1|$7.48|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073J5MHRP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
1/2" bulkhead|1|$8.50|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IJI0TH4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
1/2" Npt ball valve for pump|1|$12.99|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0734QDGZW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
1/2" ID silocne tubing|1|$19.61|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074Q6QF9S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Spray Wort Aerator|1|$6.66|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ODSS5J8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
||||
Electronics|||
10x8x6 Wall Mount Box w/ 40A heatsink|1|$75.55|https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34&products_id=616
RTD probe|1|$64.95|https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_15&products_id=767
High Amp Main Switch|1|$12.00|https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=69_32&products_id=586
120v 15A Socket|2|$1.95|https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34&products_id=274
120v 10A Rocker Switch|2|$1.80|https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=69_32&products_id=435
Fuse holder (pack of 5)|1|$2.99|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQWXW9S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Nema L6-30 socket 30A 240V|1|$12.39|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002NAT9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Nema L14-30 Extension cord for main power|1|$56.00|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072F8P2SN/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Nema L6-30 Power cord for Element|1|$29.95|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07935M281/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
240v 5500W heating element|1|$60.00|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075KCJX8W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Inkbird PID temp Controller|1|$23.99|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LQ8TPDC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

NEMA 14-50 is one type of plug commonly used for EV's, rated up to 50 amps. Looks like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-279-Receptacle-Industrial-Grounding/dp/B00009W3AA/ref=asc_df_B00009W3AA/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198089608681&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16570288418637110563&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032168&hvtargid=pla-357917644205&psc=1

There are other 240 V plug types too. For example, here's a 30-amp rated variety:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-30-Amp-125-250-Volt-Black-Indoor-Round-Wall-Dryer-Power-Outlet/3775477?cm_mmc=SCE_PLA-_-RoughPlumbingElectrical-_-WiringDevices-_-3775477:Utilitech&CAWELAID=&kpid=3775477&CAGPSPN=pla&store_code=2842&k_clickID=1738a1cb-ecda-4ae2-ab8c-92e4d9e66678&gclid=CjwKCAjw0oveBRAmEiwAzf6_rMEamS_g0FUQVn0Ab7_8o_9ioCAqVKn0_PeesKxkZNWaTW5bjbFJzhoCAUoQAvD_BwE

​

You'll definitely need to lug the cable around in your car, unless you can leave it at work. But as \u\ChalupaCabre mentioned, there are some fairly cheap ones you can buy, such that you'll have two.

There is this https://www.amazon.com/Magnepull-XP1000-LC-Wire-Pulling-System/dp/B000YJB5WO

OR you can try and get lucky by using a wet noodle

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00009WE0H/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487247701&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=wet+noodle&dpPl=1&dpID=31eqbiZlrRL&ref=plSrch

The "wet noodle and retriever" is perfect for this stuff. This has saved me so much work and cussing and yelling.

https://www.amazon.com/LABOR-SAVING-DEVICES-Noodle-Retriever/dp/B00009WE0H/

Don't use the chain to pull the wire. Use it to pull a pull string in which THEN does the wire pull. The chain is meant to be very light and flexible so it doesn't get hung up while being retrieved.

drill stud caps from attic using a common point of measurement in the room and above. using fish rod or wet noodle

http://www.amazon.com/LABOR-SAVING-DEVICES-Noodle-Retriever/dp/B00009WE0H/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377227340&sr=8-1&keywords=wet+noodle

pull wire into attic and across. Wet noodle will allow you to use the existing box and not cut any drywall (assuming there is no fire block [horizontal 2x4] which changes the situation some)

Chain goes down the wall, pull chain out through the existing box using magnet tool

I wouldn't run Cat 5 under a carpet due to it being very easy to break via pinching

raceway is the easiest way to do this but doesnt give you a polished look

http://www.amazon.com/Wiremold-CMK50-CordMate-Computer-Entertainment/dp/B0015EDVVU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377227537&sr=8-1&keywords=cable+raceway

If it's towards the plug, you can buy a replacement plug at a hardware store (like this) and simply cut the cord / wire up the replacement. (They open and have a screw terminal for each wire.)

Otherwise if the cord would be too short, the proper way is to replace the whole works.

I worry about splicing / using electrical tape because one tug and the cord could separate. But if you tape the hell out of it, it would probably hold up.

Replacement plug

Stock advice if you are uncomfortable with an electrical issue is to find someone who is comfortable with it, or hire an electrician.

That said, what you can do depends on how the current wires are attached. Since you didn't provide pictures, I'm guessing. Do not splice the old plug and wire onto the end of the new wire. Not a good idea at all. If the new wire on the dishwasher is attached in such a way that the wires can be unscrewed and removed within the wire box on the back of the machine then you can take the wire off and replace it with a wire that has a plug on it. But a better option may just be to add a plug to the end of the wire that came on the machine. Hardware stores, Home Depot. or the internet sell replacement plugs to use.

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-515PR-Straight-Blade-Rubber/dp/B000FKBZ7M/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_lp_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=NHZRWY0Q3M54Z7BZ5Q9D&dpID=41wZ0pkqgaL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

You should replace the plug with a round one like this https://smile.amazon.com/Leviton-515PR-Straight-Blade-Rubber/dp/B000FKBZ7M/ and embed it into the print.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FKBZ7M/ That's all you need to fix it. Well, maybe some soldering.

You don't need that one for a small two wire cord. this one is plenty, and what I use if I have to replace the plug on a two wire AC line cord. I use the 3 prong version for smaller three wire cords.

Yes. The breaker for the 2 legs are independent but physically bonded in the breaker. Functionally it is identical to a pair of regular 20a single pole breakers except that if one trips the physical bond will cut both legs off.

You can even put a duplex outlet that has both 110v and 220v in it which is kind of handy in a shop.

Assuming you have a 240V outlet in your shed, which should look something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5842-I-Receptacle-Commercial-Grounding/dp/B000U3BVMI

You would then just need a 240V cable to power the miner. Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EJVZLNC

Awesome yes. Trois iles is a fantastic place! I'd say it's the most touristy spot, and this is peak season. In case you didn't know, Trois ile host the 'higher end' distillery with the same name. I also know Josaphine's (Napolean's wife) house is real close by. I decided to skip out on it, since her house was burned down and apparently most historical artifacts went along with that. However, there is a fantastic, scenic view from her garden that apparently looks out to a part of the island and and beaches. With that said, driving around Martinique you'll see numerous stops where you can take similar picturesque photos, which me and my family did.

My particular favorite beach is actually near Trois-Ile, which I believe is called Anse Céron [I'll have to get back to you with the exact name... it might be another black sand beach] Anyways, it's a little bit of a hike to get to, but I'd park my car before getting the the 'actual parking spot' unless you go early. There's a spot right before all the 'actual' parking where you'll see a bunch of cars parked on the right, parallel there. Anyways, since it's a hike it means there aren't quite all the college/party life there, rather people there just truly enjoying the carribean life... relaxing. Please let me know if you're looking for that party life, I could point you to the other direction.

There are also quite a handful towns to look at, for example a famous one with a great beach is a place called Diamon. They have the biggest school in a town with a selection of many food.. Their beach has a spectacular view of the famous named Diamon island due to it being shaped like a Diamond. Also, it has the roughest waves if that's what you like. Apparently my sister told me their pizza place is top notch, though I've had yet to try it. It's the only named pizza joint on the road that's off the main beach.

THINGS TO BE CAREFUL! Martinique is completely on island time... meaning if you order food at a restaurant, expect an hour or so of a wait. First night there, we waited almost 90 minutes for hour food, though the last night was pretty standard 30-45 minutes. Also, since it's a French colony, be weary that you'll need some Euros [lots of places accept CC] and you'll need a power adapter such as this...and lastly almost everything is closed on a Sunday and on afternoon for nappy/lunch time.

Please PM me if you want some more pictures of this beautiful island. Also if you have anymore questions about what to do, I've barely even skimmed it. I'll try to cater as best as I can depending if you're travelling with your family, friends, and/or SO and how long you're staying.

Enjoy the island life!!!

You need something that looks like this assuming you're using electronics with 100-240V chargers (which includes iPhones and 99.9% of laptops made in the last 10 years).

China turns them out by the millions. I think I paid less than a dollar apiece for the ones I have. There is a similar device for UK plugs if you need one. It might cost $2 tho.

> I've seen online that plugging in surge protectors into a transformer can be a totally bad idea (indeed, I tried this in my Peru apartment and tripped the breaker :/)

Are you sure your transformer is working properly? I would only expect it to trip the breaker if you use one of those adapters which don't actually give you 120V

/r/electronics ?

A google suggests it's output is 19v 2.37A. Why not buy something like this or this

Just make sure you measure the plug size first.

Or just cut the end off your cable, and attach the correct type of these

In Australia we call them plug tops, you might have a different name

I did just this 2 years ago and honestly the new plug is like the day I changed it. The original didn't fit under the plastic cover I installed to protect against rain/snow. I used this model and it was pretty easy to replace.

depends on the wattage of the lamps. most circuits are 15a so if they're not going to be on for 3 hours or more 1800 watts Max if they are going to be on for more than 3 then 1440 watts Max.

Just buy a 5-15 plug which is a standard 15 amp plug. I linked a Hubbell which is the best you can get and is easier to put multiple cables into.

Amazon. This is probably what you're looking for. https://www.amazon.com/Hubbell-HBL5266C-5-15P-Black-White/dp/B002QMYALK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483102406&sr=8-1&keywords=hubbell+plug

This plug adapter for Europe (not including Italy, or Switzerland for that matter) but check out the 1 star reviews as well.

So I will be going throughout Europe (Italy, Germany, Austria). Will the voltage adapter I linked below suffice to charge my 3DSXL without issues?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004OH3S90/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I had the same issues. Since adding this outlet, I've had none. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TC9NC82/

Recently got a Peanut plug from Amazon that works great with ZHA. Only $15 US. https://www.amazon.com/Securifi-compatible-Remotely-Monitor-Appliances/dp/B00TC9NC82/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=peanut+plug&qid=1558202801&s=gateway&sr=8-1

I use these zigbee plugs with Hubitat. They're relatively inexpensive and work very well as repeaters in a zigbee mesh.

• Securifi Peanut Smart Plug. $14.99 ea.
  
• Ikea Tradfi Outlet. $9.99 ea.
  
  Both work really well with Hubitat.
  
  Edit - I also jumped from Wink to Hubitat. You will like the switch! I had some iHome plugs as well, but I gave those away more than a year ago because iHome's cloud was never particularly reliable for me.

I have looked at some WiFi plugs on amazon for around $10 that will integrate with IFTTT and do what I need. I might go that route but wanted to see if any plugs in that general price range ($10-20) could be added to the abode system directly. IFTTT, while pretty solid, does have periodic lags in activation.

Securifi Peanut Smart Plug
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TC9NC82/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mhEBCbMV540DK

Saw this mentioned in the past. Anyone using this or something similar?

I got recommended the peanut from this sub and it's been perfect. https://www.amazon.com/Securifi-compatible-Remotely-Monitor-Appliances/dp/B00TC9NC82/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=peanut+plug&qid=1573355600&sr=8-1

> what SmartThings products do I need?

None.

Want a switched outlet? Get a Peanut Plug for $15.

Want a dimmer switch? Get a Zooz Dimmer Switch for $28.

In almost every case, there are alternatives that are much less expensive than Smartthings products. Generally, I buy everything possible from TheSmartestHouse.com because they take the time to find/provide custom device handlers for each product if that product's features can be enhanced or increased with a custom device handler. Just scroll down on each product's page to the "Works With" list. If the device will benefit from a custom device handler, it'll be linked in the SmartThings line.

I got one of these

Are you looking for more info on this specific plug or a replacement for it? youd likely need to open it up to see the board and whatnot. where did you buy it from?

I have a couple of these zigbee Peanut Smart Plugs and they work well with HA.

No problem! Just wanted to also add that since I made this post, I've actually done a little more research into smart home stuff. From my understanding, if you don't have bluetooth built into your receiver, you may actually not need Smart Things if you want to be able to control the outlet at the same time as the music mode.

If you get a wifi controlled smart plug (like this one), Alexa will be able to discover it over wifi without a hub like Smart Things. Once you get Harmony all set up and working with your setup, you can then get a phone app and Alexa skill called Yonomi. It basically discovers all your smart devices and lets you set up custom activities for them in the app, and lets them be discoverable by Alexa through the skill. If you then recreate all your Harmony activities within Yonomi as Yonomi activities (basically by making a new activity called whatever you want within Yonomi, that when invoked, activates the Harmony activity of your choosing), all your Harmony activities will then be treated as devices in the Alexa app.

This means that you can make a group within the Alexa app consisting of your Music Mode activity (the one made in Yonomi that calls the one made in Harmony to turn on the correct devices), as well as your smart plug. Then just name that group Music Mode (or whatever you want to call it). Then you can just say "Alexa, turn on Music Mode" and she'll power on the plug and have Harmony turn on the right stuff. At least this is how it works from what I've seen. Definitely a bit of work, especially if you're planning on making a lot of activities for Harmony, but arguably ultimately worth it since you don't have to drop the extra $100 for a Smart Things hub.

Now, if you plan on getting into the smart home scene down the road, Smart Things opens up a lot of neat things you can do. So if that's the case, it may still be worth the investment to get a Smart Things hub. Then you could get a wifi smart plug, or a plug compatible with smart things (one that works using Z-wave, for example). But hey, you know, just another option.

I don't use this, but wonder if it meets your spec? https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Control-Anywhere-HS100/dp/B0178IC734/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1485319546&sr=8-3&keywords=smart+outlet Wi-fi, no hub required, and if you put "tasker" into the search bar above "Customer Questions and Answers, you see the following response:

Only reason I took off a star is because this doesn't have an ifttt channel, as of yet. I'm sure that will change though. For the techies, it's doable though Android and the tasker app, but those don't don't like to fiddle with apps and code, go with the WeMo switch if you're looking for ifttt.
This does work with my Alexa, and works as advertised. You simply download the app and set a timer, done. This works great for my tomato plants, and I have one controlling a small space heater in my garage. Again, I'd love to automate everything with ifttt, if the temp drops to a certain degree outside, it would turn on the heater, but there are work around like i stated above.
Nice little device for $25

Edit: just realized you want one that does NOT require wi-fi. Sounds like this would not work, sorry!

hi dave, welcome back to the family! :) i'm glad to hear things are looking up for you!! what are some of your favorite bands?

​

i have a super kick ass smart plugon my main WL that i want so i can turn my himalayan salt lamp on and off lol!

What hub are you referring to ? This is the outlet you have, right: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Anywhere-Assistant-HS100/dp/B0178IC734/ref=sr_1_1?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1512027735&sr=1-1&keywords=TP-Link+hs100

It says no hub required. If you have Google Home, you should just be bale to pair the outlet with Google Home and turn it off and on by voice.

I have these TP-Link smart plug

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Anywhere-Assistant-HS100/dp/B0178IC734/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1511208971&sr=1-5&keywords=tp-link+smart+plug

They work an absolute treat with Google Assistant.

I started by picking up a few of these and connecting them to my Amazon Echo: https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Controls-Electronics-Anywhere-HS100/dp/B0178IC734/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467748762&sr=8-1&keywords=tplink+smart+plug

Super easy to set up and you can ask Alexa to "turn on the TV" or "turn off the lamp". You can also group things together and say "Alexa, turn everything off" which is pretty neat for when you're going to bed. You can use your existing bulbs and it's cheaper (well save for the Echo) then jumping into a Hue starter kit, for example. That said, I do plan to pickup an EcoBee and Hue kit soon now that I have the itch to automate all the things!

There's also smart outlets like this one that give you better control on when you have the device on or off.

TP-LINK Wi-Fi Smart Plug, Works with Amazon Alexa, Controls Your Electronics From Anywhere (HS100) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aHeCxbWVES1RT

Maybe I am not understanding what you are asking, but why wouldn't you just use this plug, which is the same cost, and works with the echo directly?
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Smart-Wi-Fi-Works-Alexa/dp/B0178IC734/ref=pd_sim_60_9?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BH0RJAVZ1JXGDXYDG8WZ

Here you go! Turn ANY Iron into a "smart" iron with this one weird trick! :D

A little late to the party but you could always look into smart plugs that way you can connect them to your wifi and just turn them off and on with your phone or if you have Amazon Alexa or Google Home you can configure them to work with voice activation.

Get a electric timer like TP-Link Smart Plug (hs100) and setup a schedule to turn on and off automatically. Also, you can remotely turn on/off any device connected to it.
If you have Amazon Echo or Google Assistant, you can use voice commends to turn on/off as well.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.kOczb5S6405V

Thanks OP. Burnout for the PS2 and PSP have always been my favorite racing game. It just felt much more fun and chaotic. I would love to play a reboot of that series. As for the giveaway, I would like rocket league, but if money is short, then this smart plug for my desk lamp will do. It's so annoying having to reach for the plug. If money is even shorter then you can skip me, thank you. :)

Hello,

Profitability is always changing when mining. You can use Whattomine.com to check out profitable for specific hardware and electricity rates.

Also if you are planning to mine for a long time I recommend getting a smart plug to help track you kw/h usage more accurately. (Kasa Smart Wi-Fi Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lzHUBbX0FXV2P)

Some people who live where electricity is expensive find alternative solutions as well. We see many users try to find places where electricity is included with rent. Rural miners using solar panels, or building small hydro electric generators in streams, etc.

You may also find newer hardware is more efficient and uses less electricity. A 960 is powerful but not very efficient.

Lastly there are other reasons to mine besides profitability. If you are at break even costs you are still stacking BTC while providing a service to the networks' of the coins you are mining. Mining not only creates coins as a reward, but verifies transactions and increases the security of the entire network.

Keep a close eye on the profitability.

Thanks #GetThatHoney

I have a Smartthings hub. That talks two home control protocols, called Zigbee and Z-Wave. Many manufacturers make dimmers that use one or the other protocol. There are wall switch-types, and in-line "puck" type fan controllers.

Google finds many...

I'm using TP-Link switched outlets to turn amplifiers on and off. They also have a smaller version, but I got the big ones for $20 each, so went with those. The outlets can be controlled directly by a GH or Amazon Echo, and don't depend on the Smartthings hub.

Search Amazon for wifi switches/fan controllers that say "works with Alexa" for products that don't require a smart home hub. A hub provides some additional flexibility and control methods, but there seems to be a move away from hub-dependent approaches. There are arguments for and against both types of devices. Hubs can offer programmable logic (eg. Turn pitch light on when I arrive home, if the sun has set. If nobody else is home, turn on all amps & play White Stripes really loud,) though using 3rd party tools like IFTTT or Tasker can usually accomplish the same things.

Thanks. A y idea what the difference is between this one:

TP-Link Smart Plug Mini (1-Pack) -- No Hub Required, Wi-Fi, Control your Devices from Anywhere, Occupies Only One Socket, Works with Alexa and Google Assistant (HS105) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01K1JVZOE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ArH8BbBSSHS63

And this one:


TP-Link Smart Plug (1-Pack) -- No Hub Required, Wi-Fi, Control your Devices from Anywhere, Works with Alexa and Google Assistant (HS100) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0178IC734/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4rH8BbM5AM3S2

Connect the cameras to something like Wemo or Tnlink.. I bought this one below with excellent ratings.. better than Wemo...

TP-Link HS100 Kasa WiFi Smart Plug, No Hub Required, Works with Alexa Echo & Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_A10.BbRE7P6C2

You can use the app to turn off and on the Ring.. I'm using it on a nest outdoor IQ..

Okay since there definitely seems to be some interested in the details of the set up i figured i'd go more into detail,forgive the poor quality photos please.

So first of here are the links to everything I'm using right now:

Polyscience Immersion Circulator

Cheap cooler

Smart Wall Plugs

Temperature Data Logger

So a couple note on these things. The only reason I'm still using the Polyscience is i paid way too much for it back when there weren't many other option and it still works. I'd like to get an Anova eventually. The whole reason for this project was I was trying to see if i could do what the Mellow Sous Vide has promised but not delivered on after waiting forever on my preorder.

This was just a test run and if I decide to cancel my preorder I'd most likely go with This cooler as it seems a lot nicer and still has the side cooler.

To answer in some more detail why I don't go with just an ice bath is honestly, I want to take all the food safety guess work out of this, and to me just hoping that you put enough ice in and that it will last long enough on that given day just doesn't work for me.

Here is a link to some photos of the set up as well as the app i use and a temp chart recorded with the data logger, that i'm using to figure out the time needed to get the cooler to food safe ranges.

I know this is a lengthy post but i hope it helps

Since other people aren't answering your question, the TP-Link seems to keep its last state.

1- No. It won't work like you hope it will.

2- No. You will not like the sound of the tap.

3- A smart switch like the TP-Link HS100 will work. https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Control-Devices-Anywhere-HS100/dp/B0178IC734/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1480349984&sr=8-3&keywords=tp-link+switch

4- Not sure.

I have a lot of different Smart outlets being used around the home. It really depends on what your use is going to be.

For a cheap outlet where space is not an issues, these from KMC have worked well for me. They are pretty dependable even in areas with weak WiFi signal and the energy monitoring is nice for things like air filters or fans.

KMC also makes a nice multi outlet plug. I personally use this to control the multiple led light strips at my garage workbench.

For anything 15A, I would say TP-Link is the way to go. These have been great for me, but the newer HS105 does have a better form factor. I have used these for my garage fridge, windows AC unit, and tools at my workbench. There is an energy monitoring variant as well, the HS110

You may see that there are a ton of the cheap round shaped smart plugs on Amazon and other sites. I have found all of these to be almost exactly the same, no matter what company they come from. They work well enough for simple devices like lamps, but they have tended to have issues in anywhere, but perfect WiFi signal areas.

Let me know if you have any questions on this or any other devices. After a few years of upgrades, I am at over 110 smart devices, so I can tell you what not to get...

For $16 you can get a tamper proof one that u control wirelessly like this one. I wouldn't get the cheaper ones as they arent very reliable, TP-Link is very reliable though.

I used the same relay as /u/upnorth77 https://www.amazon.com/Enclosed-AC-Protection-Bounce-Terminals/dp/B017743I7S/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1503427639&sr=8-10&keywords=dry+contact+relay+120v and a TP Link smart switch https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0178IC734/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . Pretty simple to hook up if you have a switch that turns your gas fireplace on/off.

I own this to control all my lamps. It works great, but I see amazon is starting to pump out their own as well if you want a cheaper option.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Heavy-duty-certified-Assistant-HS100/dp/B0178IC734/ref=sr_1_1?s=digital-skills&ie=UTF8&qid=1520459871&sr=8-1&keywords=wifi+outlet

As for the garage, I think that's something you'll have to control, like others recommended, with a raspberry pi.

Yeah, I bought https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Control-Devices-Anywhere-HS100/dp/B0178IC734/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481685194&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=tp+link+alexa&psc=1 this with it. I just connected my printer and managed to make it function. Thank you!

I have this one but it's out of stock currently. TP-Link Smart Plug, No Hub Required, Wi-Fi, Control your Devices from Anywhere, Works with Amazon Alexa (HS100) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1xwvybC7FKRG5

I appreciate the comment. What I think triggered the motion capture was the light directly below the camera. It is attached to a Smart Plug. You can hear it click on it in the actual video. I am the only one with control over it and I didn't turn it on. The light wasn't on when I went to check the live feed 20min later.

You'll need one of these or a smart plug so you can power down your rig remotely.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-PC-Watchdog-Computer-Reboot-Board-/132231222514?_trksid=p2349526.m2548.l4275

This is just an example there are a bunch of different brands.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Control-Anywhere-HS100/dp/B0178IC734/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1501567527&sr=8-3&keywords=smart+plug

You need to find one that matches your machines electrical needs as mentioned above me.

I use the TP-Link Kasa Smart plug (larger variety) that supports 15A - good enough for my Silvia.


Kasa Smart WiFi Plug by TP-Link - Smart Plug, No Hub Required, Works with Alexa and Google (HS100), white, 1 Pack

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apii.6l2DbE5MFNAD

I'm doing this myself. There is a range of TP-Link wifi power plugs and other devices (I'm using this one) where their communication protocol got cracked and allowed a small ecosystem of python libraries to spring up.

Of course they push you towards their app during setup, but if you're handy with coding you can control the devices programmatically and 100% locally.

I've been using Kasa Smart Plugs for various things around the house. I've yet to have an issue with them. I can't comment on any of their other products as I've only purchased this particular model. I have never had to unplug and plug it back in.

So far i think i'm going to order the TP-Link hs100.

It's not exactly API friendly, but the commands it accepts have been captured and are not that complicated - just fire a TCP request with a small pre-set payload and it should be good to go.

As long as TP-Link doesn't change the API this should be fine for most needs:

Example script: https://github.com/ggeorgovassilis/linuxscripts/blob/master/tp-link-hs100-smartplug/hs100.sh

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Kasa-Smart-Wi-Fi-Plug-TP-Link/dp/B0178IC734/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525820345&sr=8-3&keywords=smartplug

The fan connected to this Smart Plug. There is an app for the Plug that makes it very easy to program. In my mind, much better than a mechanical timer, especially when you are trying different configurations.

The fan works great, however there is one consideration. The plug at the end of the cord is about an inch wide and will not fit through the drain hole. You have 3 options, choose whatever one best matches your skillset.

1. Run the cord out the door, next to the door seal. This will make a small gap in the door seal and you will loose a little humidity.
   
2. Make a the drain hole bigger. Once the plug is through, you will need to seal the hole with a sealant.
   
3. Cut the power cord and splice it back together.

so you just want to turn off the printer remotely?

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0178IC734/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
the phone app for this will let you turn off things remotely so long it is connected to wifi
I use it to turn on and off a pc that is at home , while im at work.

This is what I ordered - though I'm not married to it, so I can certainly change to something else.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0178IC734/

I chose it because I'm a fan of the TPlink products and have recently upgraded my router to TPLink and have several TPLink powerline adapters and wifi extenders and really like them.

I was looking at the tags and wasn't sure if I needed the hub or now. The other main concern I have is that they appear to have a shelf life of about a year. I would hate invest in the hub then run the risk of not being able to get more tags in the future as the batteries die. Though overall, the tags do seem pretty cool.

​

​

I have two smart plugs in my house and they're great! Looking to get more of the same, or if there are similar ones I'm open to them as well.

TP-Link HS100 Kasa WiFi Smart Plug, No Hub Required, Works with Alexa Echo & Google Assistant

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0178IC734/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use these and they are excellent.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077RVKYR6/ref=crt_ewc_img_oth_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3NG14OPL35XMM

I coupled them with these to plug into existing sockets.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002DN6QX2/ref=crt_ewc_img_dp_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I control all of mine with the switch on the wall, if I wanted to control them individually you could put these (or similar) on each set to individually control them.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0178IC734/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Can you use a tp link smart plug that was on sale today? Or is it just limited to the wemo?

A smart plug is something that allows you to remotely turn a device off.

In my case it can plug /unplug the Chromecast from my phone so that the monitor goes into standby without having to get up...

Here's my smartplug https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0178IC734/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522216294&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=tplink+smart+plug

Some monitors can have issues with Chromecast so I'd check that your monitor works with a bluray beforehand (literally the same protection).

You can just test it with a ps3/ps4 or a bluray player. I'm sure you know someone that can help you out offline (there's conflicting information about which monitors work and which don't online)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0178IC734/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482414964&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=Tp+link+alexa&dpPl=1&dpID=31D9FOxUODL&ref=plSrch

Something like that would work.

You'll only have BASIC control of whatever is plugged in. Turn it on or turn it off that's it. With a "real" hub you'll be able to schedule and connect different things together.

Example, with the hub and switch that I mentioned before you can put the switch on your porch lights. Lights on at sunset, off at 10pm. If you are not home until sometime after 10 the porch light will stay on until you arrive. Put the light in an entry way to do the same. You can add a motion sensor (~$30 monoprice) and have the light turn on and off with voice (cool factor 8), switch (cool factor 2), timer (cool factor 4) or occupancy (cool factor 10).

The Echo might be the part that most people interact with the hub is the thing that really does all the cool stuff. As far as HA stuff goes the Echo is just another switch.

I bought a tp-link hs100 and set up the plug in for it in octoprint. It let's you control power from the interface and you can enable gcode commands to put in your end code that shut off power when the print finishes.

I bought a couple of these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0178IC734/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526989176&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Tp+link+smart+plug&dpPl=1&dpID=41TF9BqJTuL&ref=plSrch

I know its the same cost of a camera essentially, but I got these for my indoor cameras. They work great and also work well with IFTTT.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0178IC734/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017EUTHC0/ Is this the correct adapter?

It can be used but, you'll need to change/adapt the plug.

The PDU you linked to comes with a NEMA 5-20P plug. It has a sideways blade and will not fit a standard household 15 amp receptacle(NEMA 5/15R). So by default, you won;t be able to plug in the PDU at home.

But, you can get an adapter such as this one that will allow you to plug in the PDU.

Plugging the PDU into a 15 amp receptacle will prevent you from drawing more than 15 amps. The breaker will pop. But, up to ~15 amps, everything should be fine.

There is this one. https://www.amazon.com/ZEN20-Z-Wave-Smart-Energy-Power
On Amazon, I always see the Aeotec on out of stock. This is the only other one I've seen which also happens to be out of stock.

I very successfully use a ZEN-20 ( https://www.amazon.com/ZEN20-Z-Wave-Smart-Energy-Power/dp/B01HAQHQ5I ) to control the lighting on my fishtank. All 5 outlets are independently controllable.

I've been using this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K1JVZOE/ref=twister_B078N74N8V?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I like it because I don't need to be on the same network to control it.

When they're on sale and you can also get a bunch of smart bulbs and outlet switches in the same sale, absolutely. Got a bunch of these and some smart bulbs and it's awesome. Plus I can't tell you how many times I say, "hey google, find my phone" in a week.

I use this:


https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Occupies-HS105-Wall-Light-Electronic-Component-switches/dp/B01K1JVZOE/ref=pd_day0_hl_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01K1JVZOE&pd_rd_r=70c0e254-2bfd-11e9-a095-811ee4313434&pd_rd_w=gt1SW&pd_rd_wg=WCmCP&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=PWXJYVYD6DGP54VABKHN&psc=1&refRID=PWXJYVYD6DGP54VABKHN


You can use the Kasa app to set up a schedule. You can change the schedule or manually turn your lights (or whatever is plugged into it) on/off manually from anywhere. This is my second grow using these smart switches to control both fans and lights and they have worked flawlessly. You can also get a 2 pack on Amazon for ~$35.


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No wifi extenders. The newest neighbors moved in 6 months ago. The newest 2.4 devices are two TP-link wifi plugs added 6 weeks ago.

My apartment has pretty terrible lighting and with fall/winter coming on strong in the Boston area, I decided to put together a little home gardening station to help with lighting and movement of the plants for watering. I went into this with the goal of having my setup accommodate most of my small collection of plants and to allow for easy movement without having to mess with the grow lights. In the end, I decided on a cart-based design composed of the following items:

Bror Utility Cart 33 ½” X 21 ⅝” X 34 ⅝” ($99)

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/bror-utility-cart-black-pine-plywood-60333850/

Bror Add-on Shelf 21 ⅝” X 6 ¼” X 5 ½” ($10)

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/bror-add-on-shelf-black-20402001/

Koppla 3 Outlet Power Strip 19 ¾” ($4.99 for two pack)

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/koppla-3-outlet-power-strip-grounded-white-00086428/

2x Hemma Cord Set, Black 15’ 5” ($7.00 each)

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/hemma-cord-set-white-10175810/

(IKEA site only has white showing up now, black was available in-store)

2x Luftmassa Lamp Shade 10” ($17.99 each)

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/luftmassa-lamp-shade-rounded-70462648/

Kasa Smart WiFi Plug Mini HS105 ($21.75)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K1JVZOE/

Relassy 20 Watt Dual Head, Gooseneck, Full Spectrum Grow Lamp ($27.39)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C68N7PC/

2x GE 9 Watt BR30 Balanced Full Spectrum Bulbs ($9.98 each)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NN6SVG6/

4x 3M Command Utility Hooks 3 lbs ($8.99 for nine)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0751RPD3V/

2x Velcro Thin Ties 8” X ½” ($9.70 for 100)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1Y5O6/

Total Cost (pre-tax): $234.76

Bought a couple smart plugs. Only using one so far. It's in my bedroom with my reading lamp plugged into it. Now I don't have to get out of bed to shut off the light, just click a button on my phone. :]

Smart plugs/switches are very overpriced in Canada. That said, you will see regular sales on both TP-Link and Wemo.

Having tried both, TP-Link is far better and more refined than Wemo.

What I recommend is using Camelcamelcamel to setup an alert for the TP-Link smartplug mini, as they drop to $25 cad on the regular.

https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Required-Assistant-Anywhere-HS105/dp/B01K1JVZOE

These are nice. I control them with OpenHAB on the pi: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K1JVZOE

The one you linked might be a bit low on the amperage to run a heat lamp, and it sure as hell doesn't look UL listed. Maybe it's an optically isolated relay? I'd be concerned it would burn my house down if I tried to run a heat lamp through it. The one I linked is UL listed and supports up to 15A.

Just plug into the wall then plug your lamp into it, connect it to your Wi-Fi, then add it to your devices on your Alexa app so you can use it with your echo device. I like this one because it only takes up one plug space some cover-up both, I've had it for a couple of years. every once in awhile I have to resync it with the Wi-Fi but no other issues
TP-LINK HS105 Mini WiFi Smart Plug tplink 1-Pack White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K1JVZOE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hzPQCb2B6Z84X

Yes, all on/off at same time.
I like Binary Warrior's item in the link they provided. I wanted somewhat of a little box, but that kind of item (strip) will give me additional smart plugs for regular items.
But...a multi charger, plugged into a single smart plug is your suggestion, yes?
A setup like this?
charger:
https://www.amazon.com/RAVPower-Charger-Desktop-Charging-Technology/dp/B00OQ19QYA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1526265382&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+multi+charger&dpID=41Oi-vRTv%252BL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

smart plug:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K1JVZOE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Looks like the benefit of this setup is that I have more usb ports for more pixel pals.

I have three of these and they work great: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K1JVZOE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I received these last night but haven't had a chance to try them out yet: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B078M9MJ4W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks! I've just had a look at it and it looks like a work-in-progress project. I haven't found a single smart device advertised to work with it. Supported hardware list consists mostly of Z-Wave/Zigbee devices, which you need Z-Stick to access to in the first place, so this solution doesn't appear to differ much from Home Assistant + Z-Stick, except HA supports hundreds of devices. They also support a couple TP-Link Wi-Fi devices - TP-Link Kasa plugs, Kasa switches. This is a nice find! Some Kasa users are complaining about "Local only" mode visible in their app - which suggests they can work in LAN only environment. Kasa/TP-Link Light component in HA has local polling mode, and requires the IP address of a bulb, which confirms they are indeed local-only capable. Cool. That being said, TP-Link Wi-Fi based devices are even more expensive than Z-Wave ones. But Wi-Fi is Wi-Fi, it's not going anywhere, and God knows what happens to Z-Wave in future.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-KIT-HS100-Wall-Light-Electronic-Component-switches/dp/B01KBFWW0O/ref=sr_1_1?s=black-friday&psr=EY17&ie=UTF8&qid=1542865647&sr=1-1&keywords=plug

These are great--2pack for $26

Also, are these the right ones?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-Link-HS100-Control-anywhere-KIT/dp/B01KBFWW0O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541012089&sr=8-3&keywords=TP-Link%2BHS100&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Kasa-Smart-Wi-Fi-TP-Link-2-Pack/dp/B01KBFWW0O/

Picked up one of these on sale, they work well

$16.50 each on Amazon (when you buy 2--with Prime)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KBFWW0O/ref=twister_B078N74N8V?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Seems like the lesson there is to get a high quality receptacle designed for multiple insertions. The first thread recommends the Hubbell HBL9450A, which is pretty pricey. I find it hard to believe a Leviton one would be fine since that is commonly seen at RV sites.

Also proper installation/wiring is key. All connections must be good so nothing gets hot, and cables should be of the proper thickness for the current drawn (6AWG in this case).

Also a of grease or dust getting onto the plug as that can reduce the contact area and cause heat.

(And amps can equate to heat if wiring is inadequate and thus overloaded.)

I use the Zooz power switch for energy monitoring and home assistant automations for the notification.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07578W7KY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FLszDbWM4R46T

You do have to do a bit of experimentation to get your power ranges correct but it works really well.

For the price, it seems like I'm better off just getting something like this Zooz 110V plug and modifying the ends so that it's hard wired instead of plugged in. https://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Power-Switch-ZEN15-Humidifiers/dp/B07578W7KY/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2HXRD0N5K12PC&keywords=zooz+zwave+switch&qid=1565629021&s=gateway&sprefix=zooz+%2Caps%2C147&sr=8-5

Zooz Z-Wave Plus Power Switch... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07578W7KY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Works very well. Z-wave. Using it with home assistant. They also make a two outlet version Zen 25

You could connect your pump to a power switch like this one which can be set up to send alerts based on energy use. Then for water level maybe just place a moisture sensor inside the sump pit at a specific height? Might be difficult to attach to the side of the pit, so maybe hang it from the cover or attach it to the pump's discharge pipe with a clamp or zip ties.

I use these Zooz z-wave power metered switches and WebCore to send notifications for my washer and dryer being done. Works perfectly.

Don't over-complicate things.

This one

Smart Plug Mini Outlet Compatible with Amazon Alexa and Google Assistant, TECKIN Wifi Enabled Remote Control Smart Socket with Timer Function, No Hub Required,White, 2 Pack (1 pack) https://www.amazon.com/Compatible-Assistant-TECKIN-Function-Required/dp/B07CVH7WPD

Look for anything "tuya" and you can use a program called tuya convert to put on a 3rd party firmware instead of the one it comes with that requires the cloud. I just flashed four of these with tasmota and they are really nice and work without internet: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CVH7WPD

My bulbs are Merkury, available at WalMart. Inexpensive and I have them on 5-6 hours a day, they've lasted 12 months at this point

No hub needed either. For plugs I use these, no other reason than I got a good deal on them. I haven't had any issues with them.

It's pretty handy, lots of easy to set macros with a Google Home - "Hey Google", turn on the left or right column, the inner or outer columns, the right/left inner/outer column, the plugs. I never found a Phipps hue supported smart plug that you could use with the hue smart switches, and add to the same group as the other lights, for example. I still have access to the physical switch for each case, just in case

Kasa Smart Plug, 2-Outlets by TP-Link - Reliable WiFi Connection, Double the Outlets, Control from Anywhere, No Hub Required, Works with Amazon Alexa Echo & Google Assistant (HS107) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DJ6W63H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_W90rDbSTASRGT

man, I can't wait to have a full house to automate. not worth it for an apartment in :-/ This is the total POS "Best Seller" in question

Just wire in/plug in a smart plug.
This one should work. TP-Link HS100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734

Yes if you have the power cord plugged in to a wifi Alexa enabled plug. Such as this one.
TP-Link

what about getting a wifi power outlet / ups that works with echo instead? You wouldn't be able make adjustments but you could turn it on and off.
Edit: something like this - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0178IC734/

I bought this one from Amazon AC WORKS [XH515520] 15 Amp Household Plug to 20 Amp T-Blade Female Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017EUTHC0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3v0xDbC5EHARE but it did not work cause the adapter seems to be different way. I rent an apartment that comes with this air condition and have this connector but I can connect it to my standard plate.

TP-Link Mini WiFi Smart Plug (Works with the Google Assistant).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K1JVZOE/ref=ox_sc_mini_detail?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Remote access: control devices connected to the smart Plug wherever you have internet using the free kasa app on your smartphone. Requires a secured 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi network Connection
Scheduling: schedule the smart Plug to automatically power electronics on and off as needed, like setting lights to come on at dusk or turn off at sunrise
Away mode: turns your devices on and off at different times to give the appearance that someone is home. Usage Tips - Place your Smart Wi-Fi Plug Mini within the range of your Wi-Fi router or access point (approximately 100 feet). Avoid physical obstructions and radio interference in the surrounding area.

Bought mine on amazon. Arrived next day. $8.69


Leviton 279-S00 50 Amp, 125/250V, Nema 14-50R, 3P, 4W, Flush Mounting Receptacle, Straight Blade, Industrial Grade, Grounding, Side Wired, Steel Strap, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M9FC5AR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zCYWDb4669MN7

You can always just install a new outlet yourself. Go turn it off at the breaker, disconnect the old outlet, install a nice new NEMA 14-50R. You can check the breaker to see what the amperes are and down regulate your car to match that. You could have an electrician come out and update your break if it isn't 50+ amps, or you could do that yourself after flipping the mains switch.

All up to you and your comfort level with electricity. Just know, don't play games with it. Either be confident based on sound knowledge or let someone else handle it.

EDIT: This is what I installed in my garage: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-279-Receptacle-Industrial-Grounding/dp/B00009W3AA

"mberry" the taste buds changing candies https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001LXYA5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2BfEybQAZ1ZJJ

Microwave Notebook (pretty neat tbh)
Rocketbook Wave Smart Notebook https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GU6TINM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nGfEyb46S2YX7

"Smartplug" (get one of these and you would never have to get up from your bed to turn off the lights)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.HfEyb7FFXBK2