Best electrical adapters & multi-outlets according to redditors
We found 645 Reddit comments discussing the best electrical adapters & multi-outlets. We ranked the 211 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
![[UL Listed] Chanzon 12V 5A 60W AC DC Power Supply Adapter (Input 110V-220V, Output 12 Volt 5 Amp 60 Watt) DC Converter LED Driver Lighting Transformer for 12 V 5 A Flexible LED Tape Strip Light](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51ma70Arx6L.jpg)
These sell on Amazon for $5.
Rotating outlet on Amazon
Just got a new safe for xmas, hated the lighting in it so got started on a DIY lighting project. Spent 20 minutes and $24, its pressure sensitive and lights up all compartments.
Edit: The Safe is a Mesa
I actually went in the opposite direction, favoring compactness over convenience. I just use a 3-outlet tap combined with the power adapter for whatever country I'm in.
I've never had issues fitting things on the outlet tap and it packs up to a tiny size.
No joke, I travel with one of these. I'm never without a plug. Just ask people politely if I can unplug them for a second.
>Going to volunteer with special needs people in your southweaterly region.
Fair fucks to ya.
>Tipping practices
It's at your discretion. For taxis, breakfast and lunch; I usually just round the bill off and leave the change. If I'm eating out at night, I'd add 10% to the bill. Staff should be getting paid at least €8.65 which is minimum wage here, so less reliant on tips compared to the US.
>what to do
Have a look at /r/irishtourism there is a wealth of information there.
>what to avoid
Entering into discussion about the current situation in Gaza. Apart from that, just be you.
>Other than replacing all of my cables with your weird plug
Get yourself one of these bad boys ya mad thing. No need to be replacing all your plugs.
>I am still incredibly surprised by the fact that Irish is a language. I assumed English was basically the only language youse guys have.
Outside of pockets(Gaelteacht areas), it pretty much is for the majority of the population. Sign up for some Irish classes if you're interested. It's a beautiful language and a good way of meeting new people.
Enjoy your time here.
It isn't the same as the one listed above, but I found this one on Amazon. There are covers on the USB port, and when they are closed it shuts the USB power off. This if course doesn't help people who leave their cord plugged in...
My Lighting setup:
I use the Anker charger https://www.amazon.com/Charger-Anker-Premium-Desktop-Delivery/dp/B072K5ZJXF/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=anker+usb-c+charger&qid=1556286951&s=gateway&sr=8-5
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But I would now purchase the updated Powerport PD4
https://www.anker.com/products/variant/powerport-atom-pd-4/A2041121
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It takes a double barrel (C7) plug/cable, so I just ordered C7 power plugs for the countries I needed
https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-adapter-60320-C7-receptacle/dp/B004OHHKSU/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=IEC+60320-C7&qid=1556287077&s=gateway&sr=8-3
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Upside is I have the choice of bringing the cable or the plug (or both).
Do you have a porch light? maybe consider this? https://www.amazon.com/Olens-LampChamp-eReaders-Security-Anything/dp/B01EPC102A/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1524174092&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=usb+light+socket&psc=1
Yes.
I have run with multiple computers in a rackmount up through the floor to multiple monitors & a TV for ages, as in since 2004. Currently have it down to one PC and up to 9 monitors and no TV. Never any issues, and the silence is wonderful.
15' video cables are inexpensive at monoprice, DVI, DisplayPort, VGA, whatever you need. Longer are available if needed as well. More so for DVI and HDMI, less so for DisplayPort.
15' USB 2.0 cables work fine as well, plug in a powered hub at your desk. Plug into that your keyboard, mouse, and a USB DAC (USB sound card essentially for good quality sound) $8 cheap to $140/$150 expensive, or use a 15' audio cables as well. Hookup a USB CD/DVD drive as well if you really use it that often, I never do, so a short walk is in order on rare occasion. These are the hubs I'm using currently, they work a treat. They have a built in cable so a USB A/A extension cable is all that's needed which also gives a bit more distance than the extension length you go with.
If you need to hard power cycle the box for some reason take a walk, or hookup a cheap remote AC power outlet switch (used for lamps and such) such as this or this, cost about $15 at home improvement stores, and set the BIOS to always power on after power loss. Kill power with remote, unit goes off, power on with remote, unit boots up fresh.
Any other questions ask or send me a PM.
If you're just trying to maximize outlet space, something like this cube tap would be light, since there's no cord.
(2 prong version)
hard plastic ones are generally lighter than the rubber ones, you can generally find these at hardware stores, though the shapes vary.
(Edit: as a note,, sometimes with the horizontal shape, the plugs are too close together to fit multiple plugs, cube version can sometimes help that).
http://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-adapter-60320-C7-receptacle/dp/B004OHHKSU/ref=cm_cr_pr_sims_t/191-1359208-5556450 and http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004OGXY72/ref=s9_simh_gw_p23_d11_i2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=0ZCC81D78CV9B8X8Z65N&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=1970559082&pf_rd_i=desktop
Just be aware the second adapter needs some modification with a knife to get some of the plastic.
A challenger approaches
Outlets with 2 prongs are very rare, usually only found in very old homes. If by some chance you need to plug a device with 3 prongs into an outlet with 2 prongs, you can buy something like this https://www.amazon.com/GE-Polarized-Grounding-Adapter-14404/dp/B00B7PK1TC
A quick look at Richmond shows studio flats starting at £800-900 per month. One bedroom flats starting at £1,100.
You won't get corn dogs, our chocolate is sweeter, there are specialist shops you can buy US snacks if you're desperate.
Our portion sizes are much smaller. Food and petrol are more expensive. Pubs are an important part of UK culture, we tend to drink more and more often than Americans (or anywhere except Russia, really). Our beers are great.
www.amazon.com/dp/B000VWC27G/
I'll link the full order:
I am
not 100%happy with the light strip I got.They are super sensitive to the power draw and flickers time to time(maybe it's the power adapter =/). Though, it's cheap and does its job pretty well![EDIT] correcting the led power connect as opinted out by /u/BishoujoReview
[EDIT] flickering was due to an old extension cord. I plugged the power adapter directly to the wall outlet and that solved the problem.
If you don't mind going the DIY route, you could probably come in under $100 for parts for the strips:
Instead of the flat channel, you might be better off with angled channel for mounting the strips above the cabinets, since they'll throw more light on the wall, which is what you'll actually see - https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Aluminum-Mounting-Installations-1901-V/dp/B00PJSSD7K/
There's a ZWave RGBW controller but it's more expensive than the wifi one and can take some more configuration: https://www.amazon.com/Fibaro-Micro-Controller-Z-wave-Strips/dp/B00P1N68FW/
If you get the snap-on connectors, I recommend putting a small amount of solder on all of the pads where you'll be connecting them on the strips, so that they make a good connection.
As for the puck lights, you could probably get something like this and wire the distributor to the wifi/ZWave controller, instead of plugging it into the controller it comes with: https://www.amazon.com/Changing-Christmas-Furniture-Ambiance-Lighting/dp/B01N2I47VH/ref=sr_1_2
I understand what you're asking for, u/vm_x2a_nix. To clarify for other users: the wall box in your room is installed horizontally so the nightlight is sideways, and you want a switched receptacle in your daughter's room.
This will handle the receptacle in your bedroom, and this is your solution for your daughter's room without having to run any new Romex.
Hope this helps.
It is more likely to be dangerous than using a 2 prong device. A 2 prong device is designed to be safe without a ground. A three prong device is designed to use the ground for safety, which means of something goes wrong dangerous voltage could be present on the metal parts of the device (including things like USB ports).
If you can't afford an electrician, maybe a portable GFCI would work. For example https://www.amazon.com/TRC-14650006-6-Shockshield-Protection-Unmonitored/dp/B000XVG72G
And here are the details of my build.
The basic circuit is:
[power brick positive] -----> [switch] --------> [Induction module] ----------> [power brick negative]
Here is the list of purchased parts I used:
The items I had laying around are a mason jar (cleaned with new lid), 18 gauge speaker wire, and ferrule crimps.
The wire is cut to length, stripped ~1/8" (3mm) at each end, a ferrule is crimped on each end, and then inserted into the screw terminal. The ferrule is not mandatory, but it provides a more secure connection that bare wires, and I think its important to include when many people on this sub do not have background working with circuits.
Hey there! Sorry that this is happening to you. While I agree with others, it makes no sense that that using your fan wire as a common fixed your issue - But it did! So that's great news for now.
For the record, I have had clients before tell me your same exact story - Their Nest suddenly needed a common after years of it working perfectly. Whether it's due to a surprise update, power outage, or strange anomaly - don't worry, others have been in your shoes. Just another quirk that comes with having the Nest.
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The "plug in" common wire is by far the easiest method, however you'll have to be creative on how you'll hide the wiring. Hope this helps!
Just a tip, if you put your heaters on a GFCI outlet it will protect you and your livestock if it ever breaks. Not a bad idea for the rest of the equipment either, to protect against pump leaks or lights getting dropped in the water. Just plug a powerstrip into one of these and you're good to go.
CHECK THIS SHIT
ac adaptor
right angle connectors
LED strips
LED strip lights are a great and cheap way to light up a mirror! This is a picture of my current vanity setup: http://imgur.com/HODyWkh
The whole setup should run you under $25 on amazon:
http://smile.amazon.com/Flexible-Lights-Daylight-Non-waterproof-Lighting/dp/B00HSF65MC?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
http://smile.amazon.com/HitLights-Light-Connector-Extension-Single/dp/B00L1MFRY0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00 (click the '10-pk gapless connectors' on that link)
http://smile.amazon.com/Power-Adapter-Transformers-Supply-Strip/dp/B00DKSI0S8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00
This is my parts list.... Simple and it works
The enclosure I used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TS6RY85/ref=cmswrcpapaiAyhxDbV7EHBCN
The 5A power supply (5A and you don't have to use a mosfet): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01461MOGQ/ref=cmswrcpapaiGzhxDbQWPT5QR
I used a glass slide tube for inside of the coil. You will have to rewrap the coil on the IH to fit around the slide, not hard at all: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FWYAWQ/ref=cmswrcpapaiMAhxDbTK5P2YY
The actual IH: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GDVVANA/ref=cmswrcpapailChxDb0DGE3TM
The 5v switch w/ wiring harness (you don't need any extra wires this way): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075QBJVTS/ref=cmswrcpapaifDhxDb7HTYE19
A Unibit would be a good thing to have to get the 3 holes drilled in the box. A hotglue gun and a screwdriver and your set....
Our house has every single outlet with the ground prong facing up. It is the first house I've ever lived in that has them that way and I hate it. It drives me nuts. I've replaced the one in the laundry room with a rotating receptacle in order to use it at all due to clearance. I've had to make sure to purchase plug-in refresheners that have rotating plugs (pretty much Febreeze and only Febreeze, which are expensive as hell, and yeah I know they are supposedly fire hazards). Almost every flat extension cord you can find expects the ground pin on the bottom, so I have to deal with the one behind the couch pointing up and unnecessarily straining the cord.
Every Kill-A-Watt and timer I have expects the ground pin on bottom, so I have to deal with every display, every text, every read-out being upside down. One of these days, I'm going to reorient every one of them.
I get the ground-makes-contact-first argument, but I think it's unsubstantiated hogwash. The probability is just too low. I don't keep boxes of paperclips, staples, or sheet metal near outlets where they can fall from directly above onto exposed prongs. Plus, the 2014 NEC mandated AFCIs in all branch circuits feeding dwelling unit rooms, not just bedrooms. So there is better protection in new construction from the get-go. If we stood to gain anything appreciable in terms of safety, the NEC would have already made the ground-pin-up orientation mandatory.
Edit: add links
Awesome thanks! I actually saw a perfect one in the recommended items section: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Grounded-3-Outlet-Tap-58368/dp/B001UE7SC8/ref=pd_sim_60_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XAD316KK676BG96HAEJ5
Yours looked good too but I'd be concerned at how loose the swiveling outlets are - the air freshener is an oil heater so I wouldn't want it to swivel sideways at some point.
Anyway I found what I was looking for so thanks so much!
Is this short enough?
SF Cable, 2 prong plug adapter,USA IEC 60320-C7 receptacle to NEMA 1-15P https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004OHHKSU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JsgZzbKC0C491
Non Polarized NEMA 1-15p, I think.
No offense, but you make no sense in that question.
What I think you're referring to is a usb hub with external power, something like this. Which would provide 5V DC to your USB devices. Some devices like portable hard drives receive their power straight from USB and might not work with a passive (ie no external power) hub.
Or maybe you're referring to an AC wall socket that comes with a USB port with a built in regulator tied directly to your AC line. Something like this. Which has essentially moved your USB->AC outlet adapter inside the wall.
Container: Rubbermaid 20 gal Brute Bin
Lights: Kingbrite 60 W Quantum Board (if you want dimmable, ask for a dimmable driver like the HLG-60H-36B and a potentiometer)
Screws: You'll need lots of nuts, long screws, washers, and spacers to mount the board and PSU. First put the board on the lid and mark where to drill, then drill holes. Then put the power supply on the outside in the middle, mark and drill those hoses. Mount power supply and then flip lid over and mount the light, using long screws and nuts to hold it in place (the light should NOT touch the lid but be 1-2 inches from it, held in place by nuts). Drill small hole for power line, then connect. Finally, drill 3 inch hole for exhaust beside the light. You'll also need long screws with nuts to keep the fan and shrouds together. Be sure to use spaces anywhere the screw heads or nuts are touching the lid or the lights. For light spacers, I used rubber spaces between the nuts.
Cooling shrouds: 120mm Fan Duct Cooling Shroud to 4 Inch Vent Hose
90 degree 4 inch elbow for exhaust: 4 in. 90° Round Adjustable Elbow
4" to 3" reducer for exhaust: 4 in. to 3 in. Round Reducer
2x regular JB Weld to mount the reducer and 3 inch "trunk"
Fan: Delta AFB1212SHE-PWM 120mm x 38mm 4pin PWM+Tac Sensor Extreme Hi-speed 3700 RPM 151 CFM
Fan controller: Noctua NA-FC1 4-pin PWM Fan Controller
Fan power supply: LE Power Adapter, UL Listed, 3A, 120V AC to 12V DC Transformer, 36W Power Supply
Fan power supply adapter: CRJ Female DC Power Supply Plug to 12V Molex Power Adapter Cable
Fan molex adapter: Coolerguys Mini 3-4 pin Fan Adapter (Single)
2x ABS fan elbow (for "snout" intake): 3 in. ABS DWV 90-Degree Hub x Hub Long-Turn Elbow
Air filter for intake: 16.25 in. x 12.5 in. x 0.19 in. - 16.3 in. x .2 in. x 12.5 in. - CF300 Carbon Filter
Air filter (not pictured): VIVOSUN 4 Inch Air Carbon Filter Odor Control with Australia Virgin Charcoal for Inline Fan
Fan hose (not pictured): iPower GLDUCT4X8C 4 inch 8 feet Non-Insulated Flex Air Aluminum Foil
Watering device (not pictured): Janolia Automatic Irrigation Kit, Self Watering System, with Electronic Water Timer
Camera (not pictured): Wyze Cam 1080p HD Indoor Wireless Smart Home Camera with Night Vision (glue steel piece for magnetic base onto the upper side of the bin)
Notes: This design is very safe because it keeps all electronic components high in the bin. At the same time, using a battery powered watering system keeps you from requiring to ever open it. The lamp runs very cool. The PWM fan controller works well and keeping the air moving without using a lot of power (do NOT buy a cheap voltage modulator, I did first and it doesn't work nearly as well as the PWM controller). The Wyze cam is super cheap and lets you keep an eye on everything or make timelapses. Have fun growing your tomatoes!
I've been using multiple FLS-PP along with LED strips and it works fine with the current HUE firmware, you can get one of the modules and see if it works with your LED strip, just a quick look, and it has the same plug that the 5050s LEDs I have, but the 5050s LEDS are RGB.
or
I was looking at something like this: power adapter
5 amp seems more than sufficient
Note that if you dont have an existing C wire and dont wanna run new wire you can also buy a plug-in adapter that fakes it.
24 Volt C-Wire Power Adapter/Transformer for Ecobee Nest Honeywell Emerson Smart WiFi Thermostat by Fyve Global | 25 ft Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075PN6NCV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bKCwCbMYZWJN9
If you don't mind an external transformer near the thermostat, you can just buy this:
https://www.amazon.com/Transformer-Honeywell-Thermostat-Fyve-Global/dp/B075PN6NCV
The wires from the transformer go into Rc and C. Your current wires go into Rh and W. I did this for my parents. Works amazing.
If your laptop can accept 240v, you can plug your computer in with a socket converter like this. I would not recommend plugging a US adapter into a UK socket without a socket converter.
If your computer does not accept 240V and only accepts 120V, you won't be able to plug in your computer to that socket without a voltage converter, like one seen here.
The 12 pounds or so it would cost you to get both items is probably a lot less expensive than replacing your laptop, so I'd consider going this route before damaging your computer.
If your flight is on time (which it rarely is at LAX), you might get outta there at 1:30-2:00 p.m. if you want to get to Santa Monica / Venice like other redditors have suggested. If you take public transportation, it'll probably take you an hour to get there -- plus you'll have to haul your luggage around. And because LAX is so busy and full of delays, you'll want to get back to the airport by 6:00 p.m. so you'll have to hop on the bus by 5:00 p.m. That gives you two hours at the beach. You can decide whether it's worth it to you.
Also worth noting: LAX also has like zero outlets for charging up. The outlets they do have usually require you to sit on the filthy floor near a pillar. And the wifi sucks. Also, public transportation is also terrible, so you might need to add some padding to the transit estimations above.
If you decide to stay at the airport, I would recommend loading up your machine with videos you buy on iTunes or some DVDs or something (so you don't have to rely on spotty wifi for Netflix) and then buying one of these things so that you're guaranteed an outlet ("Hey, mind if I unplug you to use this little contraption so we can both win!" Never fails).
Edit: Clarified that I was talking about getting to Santa Monica / Venice.
It is a 3 plug outlet like this:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Heavy-Duty-3-Outlet-54203/dp/B000EU4HBO/
Better - bring one of these small enough it's in my laptop bag - I've even gone so far as to rip the ground off the male end , and this allows me to plug in almost anywhere, coffee shops, airports even in meetings around the office - and it's a great conversation starter - "Oh can I plug in?"
You could get something like this, open up the remote control and wire it up to your PC on/off switch. Easy as cake.
Edit: if you put your PC to sleep, maybe you could wire up your reset switch to the remote? Or just use the actual remote.. lol
You’re adding a ground to your electrical, it can only make things safer really. Do you have a sliding window? If so just get a flat wire and close the window on it, maybe put some weather stripping in if it gets cold.
Wire it to one of these and then plug in a grounded power strip, and then all of your audio equipment can be grounded.
Leviton 274-000 Grounding Adapter, Gray, 2 Pack
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H5WGJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jn9LBbW3JRGRC
You can get adapters for this kind of thing, I think your much better off doing that.
https://www.amazon.com/VCT-VP18-Adapter-Converts-Grounded/dp/B000NND600/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=plug+adapter+plug+adapter+uk+to+usa&qid=1555607859&s=gateway&sr=8-14
They have rotating ones:
https://www.amazon.ca/360-Electrical-36010-W-Rotating-Duplex/dp/B000VWC27G
Wouldn't put any heavy loads on them though
The ground pin on the outlet is not hooked up to an earth ground. Since you're renting, you can get a GFCI Outlet Adaptor for added safety. It will disconnect the outlet if power is shorting through you to the ground.
Well there's always something like this: http://www.amazon.com/GE-Grounded-3-Outlet-Tap-58368/dp/B001UE7SC8?ie=UTF8&keywords=multiple%20outlet&qid=1465347497&ref_=sr_1_4&sr=8-4
or one of these.
http://www.amazon.com/QICENT-SC-4A5U-US-WH-Protector-Protection-Appliances/dp/B00XMON80A?ie=UTF8&keywords=thin%20outlet%20extension%20cord&qid=1465347594&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
I like bringing a power splitter just to charge my phone, in case all the outlets are full. Though it's not as bad as 5 years ago.
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Grounded-3-Outlet-Tap-58368/dp/B001UE7SC8/
Don't wear a lot of accessories. You have to remove them all during security. Also bring comfortable shoes. Sometimes my feet swell due to the high altitude and it's such cramped seating that it's hard to stretch.
And if you're on a smaller two engine plane you may experience more turbulence (shaking and tiny sudden drops).
It also gets pretty cold in flight, regardless if where you're going. I like to bring a zip up hoodie because it's easier to put on than a sweater. Also the air is very dry. They have lotion in the tiny bathrooms, but I prefer to bring my own. I'll even put vaseline in my nose because it's so dry.
If you're bringing shampoo bottles or other liquids, store the bottles in a ziploc bag. The high altitude may cause them to burst the lid and leak everywhere. Before storing, I like to squeeze out all the air in the bottles and then cap them so there's less air to expand. It doesn't always work though because some lids aren't as air tight as they should be.
If you think you will use the bathroom a lot or don't mind getting up with other people have to use it, get the aisle seat. If you think you will be fine or don't like to be bothered to move, get the window seat. The seats are so damn cramped, it's unavoidable waking someone when you have to use the bathroom, especially since all the chairs are leaned back. If you're taller than 5'8", try to sit at the emergency exits, they usually have more leg room.
Power strips will get confiscated if they have surge protectors. They may even get confiscated if they don't, because of overzealous security people who have been told to take anything with a switch. I use one of these if I need more outlets.
GE Wall Tap
The 6-power USB charging station would work well and is basically what I carry with me. I'm just partial to the Anker brand:
Anker 6-Port USB Charger
Newer ships may have 2 110v outlets, and will have multiple USB ports.
It's dual voltage (100-240V according to your image). Technically, you could just get a plug adapter and convert the US-style (Type A) two-prong plug into a two-peg EU-style (Type C).
These items are very cheap.
For example:
http://www.amazon.com/Ceptics-Europe-Asia-Adapter-Quality/dp/B0084OPT8C/
To make life easier, I suggest a Schucko-style adapter, as they fit more snugly in the socket and are grounded:
http://www.amazon.com/6PKSCHUKO-Grounded-American-European-Adapter/dp/B0038L54ZO/
Source: I am US person currently living in Europe, and all my electronics are using plug adapters.
Edit: Also, any charger will not work for fast charging. The charging block needs to provide the proper amperage. If you have other charging blocks, check their listed amperage and see if they match the one included with your phone.
I'm not sure of your electronics knowledge, so please don't take offense if I mention that voltage in indicated by a "V" (e.g., 240V), and amperage is indicated by "A" (e.g., 1.2A).
Or this...?
http://smile.amazon.com/SF-Cable-adapter-60320-C7-receptacle/dp/B004OHHKSU/
Sure first here's the LED strips, Power Adapters, and Dimmer. Looks like they've gone up in price a bit since I did it but it's still not too bad. I didn't take any in progress pictures so I'll just have to describe how setup went. The LED strips come with a sticky back side so I just stuck that to the poles on the front side of the Detolf. I used 1 LED strip, 1 dimmer, and 1 power adapter per 2 Detolfs but you could also use 1 strip per Detolf. This will give you more even lighting, and the power adapter should still be able to handle powering 2 fine, you'd just need to also buy a connector for the 2 strips. After you've got the stuff its as simple as just taping on the stip in a |‾| running from the outside poles and across the top of the Detolf, running the power cord outside of it through the gap in the door, and the plugging in the dimmer.
Thanks so much! I highly recommend these LED strips. They're paper thin so they bend easily at the corners of a detolf. You'll need this adapter for the power.
My only complaint about them is that they're a little too bright at first. You get used to them though! You can't beat this nice even white lighting and the ease of installation.
Given that is looks like mine, I'm going to assume they are:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF66JO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Transformers-Supply-Output-Listed/dp/B00DKSI0S8/ref=pd_bxgy_60_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00DKSI0S8&pd_rd_r=ET8Y5X5FM7Q06TP33QBH&pd_rd_w=Xw11o&pd_rd_wg=ZQTfN&psc=1&refRID=ET8Y5X5FM7Q06TP33QBH
To install: https://www.reddit.com/r/AnimeFigures/comments/7psgup/dioder_alternatives/dsjy59n/ (Follow the pictures in the chain)
I bought these after a suggestion from another person on this forum. I didn't think they would work, but WOW, it made a huge difference. Brightened my area unbelievably good. First link is the LED lights. Second link is the adapter to be able to plug it in.
I just wrapped mine around the inside of my window.
LE 16.4ft LED Flexible Strip Lights, 300 Units SMD 3528 LEDs, 12V DC Non-waterproof, Light Strips, LED ribbon, DIY Christmas Holiday Home Kitchen Car Bar Indoor Party Decoration (Daylight White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSF65MC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_r-dzybVRAW2Y5
LE Power Adapter, Transformers, Power Supply For LED Strip, Output 12V DC, 3A Max, 36 Watt Max, UL Listed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DKSI0S8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ObezybTYECE37
https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Non-waterproof-Christmas-Decoration-Daylight/dp/B00HSF65MC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526496163&sr=8-3&keywords=led+strip+lights
get this!
youre also gonna need this
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Transformers-Supply-Output-Listed/dp/B00DKSI0S8/ref=pd_bxgy_60_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00DKSI0S8&pd_rd_r=G8HHS4XR6MNMHDCCSNZV&pd_rd_w=RgFLj&pd_rd_wg=qhiRw&psc=1&refRID=G8HHS4XR6MNMHDCCSNZV
Based on the specifications of that monitor, it requires a 7-18V DC power adapter. Within that range, you can get at 12V DC adapter for cheap and they're very common and generic. The amperage required by the monitor is less than 1A, so a this power adapter will work fine. Within the specifications of your monitor, and not expensive.
i bought these LED strip lights, which can be cut down to whatever length, and this power supply. i also bought some extra wire and connectors so i could run one long strip of LED lights through all four enclosures. worked around the adhesive issue by hot gluing the fuck out of them. i scratched up a line about two inches away from the front wall, to create some texture for the hot glue to grab, and allowed some extra glue to sort of wrap around the strip and prevent the strip from being peeled away from the glue.
LEDs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF65MC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Power Brick: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DKSI0S8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can cut the LED strip and then re-solder them together. I used these wires for that: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QTCBZ4I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks! I purchased all the LED parts from Amazon. Here are the links.
LED Strip: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JQV6NNC
Power Supply: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DKSI0S8
Dimmer: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JQ437YM
The LED Strip can be cut every three lights, so you can make it whatever length you want. I have a ton of it left over. For the dimmer I just cut the power cord a few inches after the adaptor and wired it into the terminal block.
You will need an induction heater
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ALTHK5W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You will need a power supply
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01461MOGQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Technically that's really all you need. You could wire the leads to the induction heater and plug it in and it will be on. But I don't think anyone likes the idea of leaving this thing plugged in and always on. Which is why most users will choose some sort of switch set up. For my induction heater I used this one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D373HZF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Several users have pretty in-depth full guides. I think the best and most clear one out right now is this one https://www.reddit.com/r/Dynavap/comments/c94dxj/diy_induction_heater_guide/
Big shout out to the /u/beasthoss guide in the sidebar. Worked like a charm first time. Induction heating really makes the already awesome dynavap experience even better. All parts used are listed below for anyone interested. I did use some t-taps I had laying around but no solder.
Induction Heating Module
Power Supply
Glass Adapter
Momentary Switch
Project Enclosure
Drill Bit
Edit for parts list.
something like this ?
https://www.amazon.com/LampChamp-Charger-eReaders-Security-Anything/dp/B01EPC102A
24 Volt C-Wire Power Adapter/Transformer for Ecobee Nest Honeywell Smart Wifi Thermostat By Fyve Global | 25 Foot Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075PN6NCV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8kOMBbDXX81VD
The charger is multi-voltage so just get a UK -> US adaptor plug.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/US-UK-Plug-Travel-Adaptor/dp/B0006OFKNC
>Get yourself one of these bad boys ya mad thing. No need to be replacing all your plugs.
I fucking hate adaptors (not to mention that Israeli plugs are not like American) so I'll probably spend the extra don'tknowwhat and get a new USB charger and laptop cable. Not a big deal.
Seriously what the fuck is up with those plugs? The world has pretty much agreed on flat or round, maybe have the ground look different, and UK and Ireland are like ''Fuck it, rectangles. And the ground is on top. That's how we roll''
You don't need a different charger, you'll just need an adapter so you can plug it in. Something like one of these.
European sockets run at 230V while US ones run at 110V, so for some types of appliances there can be problems. But things like laptop chargers are made for the international market anyway, so they almost always just work.
Just buy something like this. Doesn't need to be MFLB-specific.
If the bios to your mother board will do wake on power, I would recommend using that to power on your PC. Just get a wireless remote for an outlet so you can turn on the power at a press of a button http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000G80V28 or you can do a wake on keyboard from the ipac. I use this for all my arcade/Mame cabs. Shutdown can be handled from your front end.
The most time consuming part of any Mame build is configuring your front end. You should get that set up before you build anything. This will help you find what works and what your missing in advance.
You need to ground your amp. First, those outlets look pretty unsafe. You are hearing main line buzz (click the 60 Hz mains hum)
Really what you need to do is get an electrician to rewire the outlet with a proper ground and follow local electrical code. Not doing it is risk of death/electrocution/fire.
However, if it's not an option (e.g., renting or it's cost-prohibitive), you could get away with a plug adapters like the following:
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-274-274-000-Grounding-Adapter/dp/B000H5WGJ6/
if properly installed (e.g., the junction box is metal and grounded, and so you screw that adapter into the outlet so there's a connected ground). As a last resort if you like to live dangerously, you may be able to clamp an electrical wire to between the adapter ground and a metal water/radiator pipe (again if you are sure there's no non-metal connector anywhere along the pipe), if the pipe is grounded. You probably would want GFCI circuits if you are doing this, because if there is a ground fault (say from a bad appliance being plugged in), you don't want you metal water pipe to suddenly become live and potentially electrocute you and/or start a fire.
Once the outlet is grounded you should test with a ground tester (like $5) and verify you have a real ground and no other issues.
There could additionally be other grounding problems if the wiring in the guitar is bad or the cable is also bad, but you will have bad buzzing if you don't fix the ground first.
EDIT: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nakpj_Mee0Q
I forgot to mention about the adapters. Japan uses almost the same plug as the US, except they don't have a ground (third prong). There's a good chance your chargers don't use ground either. If that's the case, no adapter needed. If you happen to have something that has a ground, you can get grounding adapter for pretty cheap at a grocery or hardware store.
Japan uses 100V, 50 Hz (east) / 60 Hz (west). Most electronics operate ok in that range, but do check the labels. It doesn't look like you considered it, but don't bother bringing a hair dryer. It likely won't work properly.
http://www.audioholics.com/home-theater-connection/ground-loops-eliminating-system-hum-and-buzz
you actually want to get rid of one of your grounded cables. Probably from the PC. I used one of these https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-274-000-Grounding-Adapter-Gray/dp/B000H5WGJ6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1496501986&sr=8-2&keywords=ground+plug
except you can often get a 2 pack of them from the local hardware store for like 1 or 2$
Edit: and the plug is not a permanent fix just a troubleshooting method. once you figure out its the ground loop you can take the appropriate measures.
I had the same issue for YEARS. Finally solved it with grounding adapters for my monitors and sub. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H5WGJ6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I got this one and haven't had any problems so far https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NND600/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LE4jDb2RHMAW8
ok cool it says 100-240 so i can use that one u linked right
https://postimg.org/image/n08y2136j/
or this one
https://www.amazon.com/VCT-VP18-Adapter-Converts-Grounded/dp/B000NND600
Usually this won't be a problem unless plugging an extremely excessive amount of power into it, it should be able to handle the 4000w extension, but if you want the security of knowing 100% this it will be able to handle it, this should work:
http://www.amazon.com/VCT-VP18-Adapter-Converts-Grounded/dp/B000NND600/ref=pd_sim_23_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=41Ekr0QgKPL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1Y3G2M76HB92VBEFKJAY
The only difference is it doesn't support US to EU, just US to UK, and it's higher quality, I hope this helped, best of luck!
Portable gfci?
It used to be that these were commonly available in local retail, but they've become scarce. Any hardware store should be able to order one however.
Note that many of the portable ones have a "feature" that they also disconnect the power to what is plugged in in the event of a power failure, and need to be manually reset. That is a feature that I like for power-tools (poor man's "no volt release" switch), but it is undesirable on things like aquarium pumps and heat-tapes. The yeliow home depot one is reported to not disconnect on power failures, and that is the sort you would want.
I've never seen a pre-wired 12v PC fan, but I wan't really saying that the ones you linked aren't safe. You can use GFCI outlets, those will protect you from shocks.
You will probably have to get a cheater plug and then plug into that a GFCI protector like this one to protect you and your piano.
Id say maybe make sure one of the pants is a nice normal looking one that you can pair with the shirt for a nice date night, so many places you would want to do that.
I'd prefer an extra shirt and underwear or two just so I don't have to deal with the washing, weight is low enough that it was worth it for me, space has never been a concern, I personally travel with 5 tshirt and undies, but many people travel with just 2 pairs.
Do you really need the vest when you have the hoodie and down jacket and rain shell?
Compact alternative for power strip: a 3 way power splitter, combine with a 1ft extension cord for a more compact power strip that can also deal with bulky wall warts better.
This one is a bit more compact.
Actually is using a power strip. that's what's in the priority mail box.
btw a generous thing to travel with or take to starbucks-- this http://www.amazon.com/GE-Grounded-3-Outlet-Tap-58368/dp/B001UE7SC8
I didn't have the dorm experience, but I lived far enough from campus that I would hang out there all day most days.
Quality shoes - you will be walking quite a bit. Depending on your style, consider something like a waterproof hiking shoe that will last through some like snows.
Reusable water bottle that will fit in your backpack well. Sparty's will fill it up, or you can use the drinking fountains.
I'm a fan of some of the /r/edc stuff as well, a small flashlight can be very useful, and shouldn't run over $20.
A small plug splitter, would be very useful. I have a more complicated one, but if I did it again, I'd get this. A lot easier to charge your laptop/phone when you don't have to convince someone to unplug theirs.
Either a collapsible umbrella or packable raincoat.
Extra headphones. I'm lucky enough to have accumulated several pairs of iphone earbuds, so if I lose/break one, I'm still okay.
The great thing with adhering to a global standard (though in fact Apple does too, but as usual only on their own terms) is that you have options.
https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Adapter-60320-C7-receptacle/dp/B004OGXY72
https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-adapter-60320-C7-receptacle/dp/B004OHHKSU
https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Profile-Non-Polarized-IEC320/dp/B01886W21C
http://www.amazon.com/Newer-Technology-Power2U-Outlet-Charging/dp/B0065I114K
Here's the amazon product page. It's $2 cheaper.
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0065I114K/
3/5 stars with 17 reviews. Quality seems sketchy.
You mean one of These.
[Insert text here] (Link in here)
Yours didn't work because you used \ before the [].
It's a ground loop. I don't know if those have a ground lift switch. But you can get an adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/GE-14404-Polarized-Grounding-Adapter/dp/B00B7PK1TC/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1536950120&sr=8-12&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ground+lift
I recommend getting a three prong to two prong adapter for your scope so It isnt grounded on the power input/chassis.
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Polarized-Grounding-Adapter-14404/dp/B00B7PK1TC
One channel to each grid. Nothing in the input jacks of amp, volumes turned down. The only dc offset you should see is whatever the fixed bias is set to. You could pull the power tubes and disconnect the fixed bias to be sure.
Get one of these for each power plug, it should fix it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B7PK1TC/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499569819&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ground+lift&dpPl=1&dpID=41dPZcX6HSL&ref=plSrch
Source: had the same problem. These fixed it.
They provide enough light but aren't super bright, I do have the option of putting another strip across (I only used half) to make it brighter but 1 should be enough. You can't beat the price: LEDs and Power Source . I originally was going to hold them up by zip ties, but the backing is sticky enough to stay on the wire shelf. I'm not sure how well it will stand up in the future but for now it's great.
Ok, so I'm about to embark on this project. I want to put the Hue strips behind my TV, but I need 2 strips, which is expensive and cumbersome. Here's what I've been able to find...
I purchased some item from Amazon. Here's what I got:
16 foot roll of RGB LED's: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008YRT9IK/
12v RGB LED Power Amplifier: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0081CZJGO/
12v Power Supply for LED Strip: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DKSI0S8/
Here's what I plan on doing. I cut off the LED strips AFTER the Philips controller. That should leave 4 wires, the R, G, B and V+ wires. I connect that to the RGB Amplifier. I them connect the amplifier to the RGB strip and voila, everything should work, in theory. I haven't completed this project yet, I just got the items today. I plan on recording a video assembling everything together. There's a few videos on YouTube showing this as well, but they're vague. Hope this post helps!
here
I made sure to get the 3000k as they're a warmer softer light, as well as waterproof. I got myself one power adapter per box (each box was a single piece, so I ordered to strands of lights).
The lights are adhesive backed, but adhesives in the enclosure are a big no no, so I just used the adhesive to hold em in place while I placed them, and then siliconed them into place for good.
The lights are cool cause you can wire multiples together with available adapters and connectors. The strands come with a couple adapters too. But no power supply, so make sure you get one, or something equivalent.
Also, I wrapped the lights around the upper perimeter of my boxes, but they're definitely bright enough that I'm considering taking about 1/4 out. They're not overly bright, but it's more of a personal opinion, but my snakes don't seem to mind them. So you may not need more than one strand, depending on how much light you want in the enclosure.
OP could also use the Viltrox with an AC adapter to run on a power bank with an AC outlet like this one. The 24,000 mAh one would probably run a Viltrox for 10 hours, and the 40,200 mAh version would almost certainly well exceed that.
EDIT: Based on reviews, this one would probably be better.
12V DC, 3A Max, 36 Watt Max, UL Listed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DKSI0S8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3owhybBPVHBRM
You don’t need to match the 2A input. You just need it to take in AC power and and put out 12V 3A. This is what I got and no issues with it: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DKSI0S8/
The cord on that is almost 4ft. I don’t quite need a 6 ft cord because my EO is mounted right above an outlet that’s hidden by furniture.
Yes, standard 12v 3A with proper polarity from a reputable brand should work just fine.
/u/MattAces posted this one in a previous thread, I haven't confirmed this one would work or not, though.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DKSI0S8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3owhybBPVHBRM
AC Adapter
https://www.amazon.com/SoulBay-Universal-Switching-Selectable-Electronics/dp/B01N7RS0NG/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1506451136&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=ac%2Fdc+power+adapter+12v+27w
This would get you very close, it's slightly under powered. Do you have the specs on what the adapter is powering?
This one would also work, but it could supply too much amperage if the device is shorting or having other electrical issues.
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Transformers-Supply-Output-Listed/dp/B00DKSI0S8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1506451264&sr=1-1&keywords=ac%2Fdc+power+adapter+12v+3a
Edit: Either way, you could replace the end with the one from your adapter if they do not fit, assuming you know how to crimp or preferably solder and shrink tube.
I ordered 2 of these to fill my 10' x 10' playspace https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017HQVOP4/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I ordered 5 boxes of these to attach them. 1 in each corner, and 1 in the middle of each tile. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001PLOM8Y/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I angled the pins so that they went all the way in and are sturdier.
For the lights it took 2.5 spools of this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HSF64E6/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Also an adapter https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DKSI0S8/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And a remote to power it all on/off without having to plug it in over and over. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MHKCTLE/ref=ya_st_dp_summary
This is the one they sell for it, I don't think I'd have anything appropriate on hand. But thanks :)
This: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00HSF65MC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
With this: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00DKSI0S8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Canadian links, but they have them in other countries.
Very simple to setup - I just put it right next to the rods in the Detolf and went up and around.
Are you talking about the power supply for the Charsoon charger in the UAVFutures video? If so I also had the issue you have (as well as another issue where it killed one of my batteries by not balancing properly) I bought this power supply to replace the cheapo one it came with : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DKSI0S8/
I pretty much immediately upgraded to an iCharger 106b+ though and only use the Charsoon as a battery tester. It's much nicer having something that can parallel charge and discharge as well as be more reliable to not kill my batteries.
I think yours has the double doors? I had a 16-18 gun cabinet with a single door. The door was the perfect width for this Molle seat back panel. I had to cut a corner for the lock mechanism and had it sewed by a local custom leather shop. Then I drilled and used rivets to attach it to the door. I have another cabinet that I added plywood shelves to. I just used double stick tape to stick plywood to the sides, then put a shelf on top, then stick on 2 more sides, then another shelf and repeat.
It sounds like you're going overboard on lighting. I just outfitted my new
saferesidential security cabinet with LED strips. The safe is 40" wide, 72" tall and 25" deep. I bought this two-pack of LED strips and this power adapter and a this 5-way power splitter. I installed one full strip minus 6 inches around the perimeter of the door, and I didn't need any more. I added a loop around the sides and top at the back of the safe only because I had a second strip of LEDs, not because it was necessary.Edit: I know it's impossible to judge brightness in a photo, but here's two I took of my safe. The single strip of LEDs facing away from the door provide sufficient light. The LEDs around the back edge add a ton of light, but the glare from looking at the LEDs cancels out a lot of the added brightness.
So basically I used a 16" wire wreath frame and wrapped tin foil around it to reflect the light better, and stuck on the LED Lights! They don't come with a power adapter so I bought this one.
If all of your devices are USB-powered, I highly recommend one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/aLLreLi-International-Interchangeable-Portable-Smartphone/dp/B00O0RJJD8?ie=UTF8&keywords=usb%20international&qid=1462369303&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
As for regular power adapters, I just get the cheap ones because they inevitably get lost or broken.
Make sure your electronics are rated for 220 power sources.
Most of your power supplies (phones, laptops, cameras, etc. The only exception I usually see are motors, audio amplifiers and the like) will support both 110/220V and 50/60Hz. You will just need a dumb (i.e. does not do voltage/frequency conversions) adapter to allowing you to physically plug your US type outlet to a UK/EU type. I personally use this.
Here is one on Amazon. It's worth noting that if you are charging a phone or a camera battery that's post-2005 or so, you only need to use the adapter plugs. Advanced electronics don't need the actual converter.
On the other hand, a hairdryer, clippers, and other less advanced stuff will need the converter box thing. When I was studying abroad overseas (before wifi was everywhere and before I had a smartphone), I just bought a clock and hairdryer and then left it there at my host parents' house. And [gasp] used payphones with a calling card :)
Walmart should have them or you can order one online http://www.amazon.com/MX-UC1-Protector-Universal-Charger-Adapter/dp/B00E0FZSQC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1452226542&sr=8-3&keywords=international+adapter
Those box universal adapters work really well, they are cheap, usually $10 or less and work just about everywhere and even though they are a little big its not an issue.
Nunie,
This will actually work. remove Q1, Q2, Q3 and everything to the right and replace with this setup. For the transistors use this. Power the whole unit with something like this.
Let me know if you need more help. Cheers!
How long of a strip? If it's 5 meters then you'll likely need a 12 volt 5 or 6 amp power supply.
http://www.amazon.com/Power-Adaptor-Transformers-Supply-Lights/dp/B00K71VMCW
edit- one plant, one pot. It's a common beginner's mistake to put multiple plants in a single pot. This is 3 inches of soil in a Tupperware container with the plant taken out of the container for photo purposes to give you an idea of what's possible.
http://imgur.com/wFhNaEb
Here ya go:
https://www.amazon.com/LEDMO-Power-Supply-Transformers-Adapter/dp/B01461MOGQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1485796874&sr=8-3&keywords=12v+5A+power+supply
I don't use the plugs on my FLS-pp's that I have. I just cut the plug off the power supply and hard wired it directly to the FLS-pp. Since mine is a permanent installation this isn't an issue. Honestly I don't see why you would ever want the plug. It not like you will be swapping power supplies that often or ever.
I followed the Ikea LACK build, with my own mods.
I don't live near an IKEA, so I bought two end tables @ $8/ea, but ended up paying $26 total after shipping. I then purchased $60 in plexi, but used corrugated plastic for the back panel since it's significantly cheaper and the white background reflects more light on the print bed. It's basically the stuff that political yard signs are made out of (if that makes sense). I printed standoffs / brackets to hold the plexiglass (see Thingiverse), $14 in brackets & board for the side shelf. The lights were about $45, using this, this, & this. I put the LED strips on aluminum channel, but that really could have been skipped. I just had some from a previous project.
Because I went "full nerd", I used an arduino & temperature sensor to create a temperature controlled fan, with LED control panel (designed & printed bracket), and used sketch-up to build an exhaust housing very similar to this one, except for a 120mm fan. I don't have a filter on the enclosure now, and to be honest, 90% of the time, the fan is off. But I wanted to be able to place a charcoal filter on the exhaust fan for ABS, so I planned ahead. I'm going to tie my OctoPi to the Arduino and trigger the fan on high after a print ends to cool the enclosure down faster so I can pull parts off the glass bed sooner.
I'll guess my all-up price was about $200. It could have been done for probably $130 without the arduino & lighting tom foolery.
Other mods pictured are the printed Z-axis braces on the printer itself, this fan shroud on the control box (because the stock fan is a joke), and the aforementioned borosilicate glass print bed.
Until you have an enclosure sorted, even surrounding the printer on 3 sides with cardboard proved to be a huge step in the right direction for me. It proved that yeah, I really do want an enclosure.
We use this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014SII7FO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Looks like something similar to this.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01EPC102A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KjQaBb02GX2GG
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EPC102A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Chanzon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073QTNF9F) is the one that I used. I just ordered the Kastar (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TUMDWG/) - it should arrive tomorrow. I'll try that and report back!
Something like this is better suited. You'll probably want to check if the size is correct, but it's usually that size with 12V.
https://www.amazon.com/110V-220V-Converter-Lighting-Transformer-Flexible/dp/B073QTNF9F/
i think they were just kidding, but seriously, these are great. as i'm in the middle of a build right now, i have to ask: have you had any luck with the kastar PSU or is there one you recommend more? this is the one I've got in my cart at the moment but if you think the one you linked would be better i'd save a couple bucks. thanks for your wiring diagram, btw!
I think your problem is the C wire... per your comment you have RC/W/Y/G... you need a C.
If your unit has a C terminal but unused, you can use the adapter ecobee's include to make a 4 wire system work. If not, then you might need something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Transformer-Honeywell-Thermostat-Fyve-Global/dp/B075PN6NCV/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511237224&sr=8-3&keywords=c++wire+adapter
in addition to the adapter ecobee includes to give you power. Then treat that as your C... I haven't personally done this, maybe someone here can give you more feedback.
99% chance you need a C wire. Myself and many others with 2 wire boiler systems were in this boat (even down to getting the same error e195). The good news is that it sounds like you already have a third wire in your walls, even if it isn't hooked up. You could just try and connect the wire to your boiler transformer but I wouldn't recommend this. Those transformers weren't meant to power both the boiler and an additional device (the Nest) and you'll likely see more power problems. Instead, you could purchase a plug-in external transformer, plug it in near your boiler, and send power over the C wire (there's lots of articles on how to do this - it's dead easy). I've been running mine in this configuration for a year with zero e195 errors. I actually had to take the extra step of installing a FastStat CommonMaker to "fake" a third wire as I didn't have one in my walls but luckily you don't have to do that.
**EDIT: You do not require a Nest Pro installer for this... if you were able to install your Nest then you will be able to do the above very easily.
Am I seeing correctly that this is a wood-burning furnace with electric backup? That's fun- I don't often see those around here (western PA, USA)!
Personally, I get a little nervous about splicing in wires to control boards without photos. It *looks* like you should be ok in this case, but it might be better to just use a plug-in 24V transformer (~$15 USD) https://www.amazon.com/Transformer-Honeywell-Thermostat-Fyve-Global/dp/B075PN6NCV
Ok just making sure. Call the maintenance guy for the apartement complex and see if he can help you get it sorted. My guess is that you have a standard R and W wire (no idea which is which without seeing the boiler). If you need a C wire, you're going to need to have a plug in transformer.
If you don’t have an extra wire, you can buy a 24v wall wort to power the nest. It isn’t pretty but it works.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075PN6NCV/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_G6eSAbRZ5368R
It actually can mess up the PSU. Mine actually started randomly turning off while I was playing. I ended up using an outlet power tap.
That particular one is made to replace the wall plate of a regular outlet. But Yes you can use splitters in a surge protector.
Get one of these maybe? You can use the remote for this to hard turn off your wii
https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Outlet-Wireless-Remote-Outlets/dp/B000G80V28
Yeah I have something like that but there are power outlets right by the lights and I want to avoid running extension cords all over the place for just the two plugs that are out of reach.. I'm looking at something more like this but maybe better quality
http://www.amazon.com/DSI-Outlet-Wireless-Remote-Outlets/dp/B000G80V28
I have mine on remote outlets (similar to these), nice and quick to turn them on and off, and then I used a simple cable channel to hide the power cable. I would get random shutoffs while playing with bluetooth. Not at first, but after a few months for some reason, it started doing that.
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-274-000-Grounding-Adapter-Gray/dp/B000H5WGJ6/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_lp_tr_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=QPYH3493HBC1VEB8HBGF
I pre-ordered mine. Do we need an adapter to plug it into the wall? Like one of these? https://www.amazon.com/VCT-VP18-Adapter-Converts-Grounded/dp/B000NND600/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498501529&sr=8-3&keywords=uk+to+us+plug+adapter
Something like this is what you are looking for.
https://www.amazon.com/VCT-VP18-Adapter-Converts-Grounded/dp/B000NND600
Sorry to bother you again, will this suffice?
https://www.amazon.com/VCT-VP18-Adapter-Converts-Grounded/dp/B000NND600
just buy a converter, they're like 6 bucks on amazon
Chainreactions was selling these super cheap and I'm betting he bought one from them because I did the same :).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NND600/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You just need one of those or look around and see if you have a cable that fits, it uses a pretty common one. I bought the converter but ended up finding a cord from an old printer that fit. And yes it works with 110v.
How exactly are those cheaper or simpler?
http://www.amazon.com/360-Electrical-36010-W-Rotating-Duplex/dp/B000VWC27G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369851531&sr=8-1&keywords=15+AMP+ROTATING+DUPLEX+OUTLET
The Amazon ones claim 360 on the package. I'd trust the 270 degree ones more I think, although it would be fun to dissect one to see how sturdy the power busses are.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-media/product-gallery/B000VWC27G/ref=cm_ciu_pdp_images_2?ie=UTF8&index=2
Oh, I didn't realize. Hmm any of these is certified?
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00SJ7Z7DQ
https://www.amazon.ca/TRC-90033-Shockshield-Portable-Protection/dp/B000XVG72G/
https://www.amazon.ca/Tower-Manufacturing-30439005-Commercial-Auto-Reset-Grounded/dp/B00UOU6OVU/
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000MM3Z6C
It's not if there's no risk - say if a wire in your PSU becomes loose an touches the metal housing and then you touch the PSU housing you may get shocked or worse electrocuted. Best thing to do if you can't rewire your place would be to install a GFCI outlet or get a surge protector with GFCI built in. Something like this. It will shut down the flow of current if it detects it going anywhere other then back into the plug (like through you). These are what you have in your bathrooms and on the end of your hair dryer where the risk of electrocution is far greater than sitting beside your computer.
You can go ahead and plug it in, but the grounded outlet would be safer. Mostly things will work fine, but watch out if you have a cheap power supply in the PC because they can occasionally transfer some voltage to the PC case. That won't give you a big shock, but it can tingle. The main safety issue is if something fails in the power supply that shorts to the case, then it will energize the case. A ground would prevent that. A GFCI plug can give some protection for that.
Also be sure to unplug it whenever there are lightning stirikes even remotely close to you.
I fly with this: http://www.amazon.com/GE-Grounded-3-Outlet-Tap-58368/dp/B001UE7SC8/ref=pd_sim_e_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1YWGSF40WYH1RWWSWM72
Do this instead. Use an adapter (not converter) and one of these expanders: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001UE7SC8/
I’ve been traveling the world for 9 months (24 countries and counting) using this and it works like a charm. Everything you plug into it needs to have its own converter (most modern electronics chargers like cell phones, etc, and any brick plug with a “100-240v” on it should be fine.)
Never plug a hair iron or similar heat-producing device into this setup. Those always need a converter.
Also recommend a usb charging hub like one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VH8G1SY/ With the 3-prong expander and this you can charge multiple USB devices and have room to plug in a non-usb charger. This can handle 100-240v.
I've got a Dot plugged into one of these since I also only have one outlet:
https://smile.amazon.com/GE-Grounded-3-Outlet-Tap-58368/dp/B001UE7SC8/
Echo in the bathroom is a game changer. I can listen to music or podcasts and set reminders when I think of stuff while I'm washing up or on the can. Also have it connected to a waterproof bluetooth speaker in the shower since the Dot isn't very loud.
The gfci should pop and turn off the electricity to the power strip if it shorts, but I’m not positive. Should be okay I think, I do it. Or get something like this GE 3 Plug, Wall Tap, Adapter, Grounded Access Design, Indoor Use Only, UL Listed, White, 58368 Outlet adatper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001UE7SC8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_A.G2BbHTQVRGH
About your Cons. (1) I know it's not the same, but you can control the switches using Tasker, Send/Expect Tasker Plugin & AutoRemote Tasker Plugin. Let me know if you'd like the links for how to do so and I'll dig them up for you :) (2) I know it's not ideal, but if you're concerned about the second outlet not being available (which many people are, and for good reason) you can always opt for something like this outlet adapter from Amazon. This one in particular would work well because the plugs are sideways, meaning the tp-link plug won't be hogging the other outlet. Plus, you'll get an additional spot or two for small-plugged appliances such as lamps.
The USB port on the charging brick is not overly powerful. There have been a lot of people who have had trouble charging their phones with it over the years, especially larger phones. I've never heard of having to replace the battery for this.
Easy fix? Maybe not what you'd like but if the charger still works on the SP3 alone something like this plus this.
I carry one of these in my computer bag at all times.
Great, thanks!
Do you think the one you sent would work better or this? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001UE7SC8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2
(quick note that the power cord is 2 prong)
Why don't you use one of these?
Run the line out of your keezer and to the inkbird temp controller. If its the Itc-308, get a Grounded 3-outlet tap and plug the freezer and the fan into the cooling side.
Then the fan will turn on only when the freezer is running.
There are never enough power outlets at conferences, especially IT ones. You'd think they'd realize that a large chunk of their attendees have multiple gadgets that will need charging between sessions, sobring a power strip or splitter. I have one of these (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001UE7SC8) in my laptop bag, and it is awesome for conferences and airports, it is a cube about an inch on a side that splits out to three power outlets.
If the schuko converters you're talking about are like these then it's a bad idea.
The voltage will still be at 220V from the hot to nuetral on the powerstrip, which is only rated for 120V. Even though your devices may accept the 220V, the powerstrip becomes something of a fire hazard because it's at double its rating.
Here is the desktop version of your link
Most adapters are flexible all the way from 100V to 240V. It's written right on your adapter in tiny print, so go look.
If that's the kind you have, you only need a trivial plug-shape adapter like this for 2 prongs or this for 3 prongs.
It sounds like the 2 and 3 prongs would both work? I've found these two...and it seems like either would seem one is two and one is three. And both seem to work in Italy regardless...?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0038L54ZO/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?qid=1462843165&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=european+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=412qrOLqL6L&ref=plSrch
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007YL6HY6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1462843770&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=us+to+italy+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=31xmYdMV3xL&ref=plSrch
Non-angled version
$14
Ac/DC baby! !
Mount this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0065I114K?pc_redir=1411126551&robot_redir=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B7PK1TC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_OXNJAbHE8GYB7
There's that too.
Get one of the cheater plugs (that doesn't have the ground plug) and try plugging the monitor speakers into that.
Buy a 3 prong to 2 prong converter from a hardware store to push the plug up an inch so you have enough room to plug in something under it
One of these.
I had this problem and I came up with a couple solutions, depending on your budget range. You could be like me and buy a power conditioner for the speakers to give them clean power, if you feel ok with spending like $100+. Keep in mind that this may not fix your issue, but it's always good to keep your studio equipment on clean power.
You could try isolating the power for the speakers. Grab an extension cord and see if plugging them in to an outlet in another room helps. Sometimes you'll run into issues there and that could be an easy fix.
Also, one thing I'd for sure recommend is lifting the ground of the speakers. This can be done with an adapter like this one, although I HIGHLY RECOMMEND not getting them on amazon and just going to Home Depot and getting them there, they're like $.70 a pop. The ground lift helps A TON with extraneous noise, you'll notice on many DI boxes, there is a ground lift switch that can help with stage noise, it's the same concept but just with your studio monitors.
Or you can just buy one of these so you can still use the ground when you can.
Hi OP. What country do you live in? Curious what your mains is and whether you have a building ground.
You likely have one of three issues here:
I assume you're plugging the speakers into a 3 pronged outlet? There could be a ground loop between the speakers and some other device in your house- cable TV, telephone, etc. You could start troubleshooting by getting a 3 prong to 2 prong adapter like this and see if it removes the interference. (Note: this is just for troubleshooting and you should not permanently power your equipment without a ground, as it is unsafe)
There's also a possibility that the interference could be from radio frequencies, which is a completely different issue.
Probably the simplest, easiest fix would be getting a noise attenuating power supply like this or this. They are made to help isolate your audio equipment from both kinds of interference. This might fix your issue.
You could try that. Cheater plugs are cheaper https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B7PK1TC to test a theory.
Maybe try a cheap cheater plug to see if it's ground noise?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B7PK1TC/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481441397&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=Plug+Adapters+3+to+2&dpPl=1&dpID=41dPZcX6HSL&ref=plSrch
Edit: Maybe try one on your turn table as well. If the noise is from the turntable then anything after that will likely pickup the same noise.
Or ground lifts.
I used one very similar to this and it worked fine.
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Transformers-Supply-Output-Listed/dp/B00DKSI0S8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1519684388&sr=8-3&keywords=12v+3a+power+supply&dpID=41kaSAMcYWL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
I've used a 12V power supply for a motorized curtain project. Something like this should suffice depending on your motor (though if you're using a motor that draws too much current for that power supply it's probably way overpowered). You can run the arduino off of it too, just run the 12V to Vin and ground to ground. You could also use something like this to control the motor, might be easier than making a circuit out of transistors.
LE 16.4ft LED Flexible Light Strip, 300 Units SMD 2835 LEDs, 12V DC Non-waterproof, Light Strips, LED ribbon, DIY Christmas Holiday Home Kitchen Car Bar Indoor Party Decoration (Daylight White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSF65MC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RZ4dAbA6SN1AR
And
LE Power Adapter, Transformers, Power Supply For LED Strip, Output 12V DC, 3A Max, 36 Watt Max, UL Listed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DKSI0S8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_f04dAbKTW24T6
http://www.amazon.com/Power-Adapter-Transformers-Supply-Strip/dp/B00DKSI0S8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
I mounted these above my workbench, they're super brightL
http://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Lights-Daylight-Lumens-Non-waterproof/dp/B00JQV6Q4I
and then you just need a power adapter:
http://www.amazon.com/Power-Adapter-Transformers-Supply-Strip/dp/B00DKSI0S8
I mounted them facing down, behind a piece of wood so i see the lights directly.
LED light strips come in 16ft portions and you can cut them to whatever size you want. They are also very cheap!
LED STRIP HERE
110VAC to 12VDC ADAPTER HERE
they plug right in and are super cheap to replace.
Yes you'll need a power supply. If you were to buy this LED tape it comes with one, just cut the barrel connector off, strip the two leads, and connect them to the DMX decoder inputs. Then toss the remote and IR sensor in the garbage.
Or you could buy them on their own. Try not to go too cheap with them. The build you linked to uses a switch mode driver/transformer. They have surge protection and can switch between input voltage but I've found they can make a squealing sound when running.
If it's AC adapter, I think it uses a pretty generic one, you should be able to find it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DKSI0S8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3owhybBPVHBRM
The product page says a 24w power consumption, so aiming for a 36w or larger power supply would be a good idea, something like this would work just fine.
I went to amazon and ordered these lights and this adaptor. I haven't gotten them in yet, but I'll let you know what I think of them when they do. They seem pretty straight forward but you never know with these kind of things haha.
As for preference of white vs warm (yellow), I used christmas lights and a white fluorescent lamp as different backlighting to see which I liked more. I picked the white because I felt it had a more mysterious/ night time feel (just my opinion haha), but all the Hari and Deepti ones use yellow light so it's all up to personal preference. Post pictures of yours when you finish! I'd love to see how it turns out! :)
This is the one I already bought. Can I just get an adapter for this? LE Power Adapter, Transformers, Power Supply For LED Strip, Output 12V DC, 3A Max, 36 Watt Max, UL Listed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DKSI0S8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_n-iVAb127J24S
phone chargers are typically 5v, not 12v. Anything with a 12v >250mA output would work, so it just depends what you have laying around. Or you can get something off amazon for maybe 10 bucks at most. such as http://www.amazon.com/Power-Adaptor-Transformers-Supply-Strip/dp/B00DKSI0S8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1453144942&sr=8-3&keywords=led+power+supply
http://www.amazon.com/Power-Adaptor-Transformers-Supply-Strip/dp/B00DKSI0S8
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Transformers-Supply-Output-Listed/dp/B00DKSI0S8/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_23_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=T60MPKWVX3N790BZGRP6 Would this work?
No problem. My particular ones are just green, but the same company sells RGB ones. Got them on Amazon.
The LEDs themselves are here and the power supply is here. Cheers!
I would get this one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DKSI0S8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1519091480&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=12v+3a&dpPl=1&dpID=41kaSAMcYWL&ref=plSrch
The connector on the one you listed is different.
A lot of the $30 - $50 mirrors that are readily available at Walmart, Target etc. are really not that great. They're better than nothing, but that's about it. If she's as into makeup as you say she is, she's going to want something properly bright. If you're looking for a makeup mirror with lights built in already, you're going to have to invest around $80 - $100. Instead, if she already has a mirror, you can just add LED lights around the perimeter, and it works better than most makeup mirrors. Definitely better than the $30-$50 ones.
Here's what I use: this LED strip + this power adaptor. It's super easy to install if she already has a mirror, and it is BRIGHT. It's cheap (around $40CAD), and SUPER functional. I can't recommend it enough. You can probably even get a different adaptor with a switch/dimmer.
Thanks! I got one from Amazon but it doesn't look like it's the right size as my Gledopto controller. Can you help?
This is the one I got: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DKSI0S8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I recommend adding [these] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF65MC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) (along with this as a power source) for light. I have two curio cases lit up with these and it works great.
Sorry, was asleeping. LED strip here
Power supply: here
Shoutout to /u/squadz , got the idea from his thread a while ago.
Get one of these
I learned the hard way. I fried my 3ds charger first. Then on a rainy day, I got desperate and wanted to briefly use the gamepad charger. It ruined it on the first try.
Maybe Nintendo released different charger models or maybe you were using a converter instead of an adapter? The adapter I used that fried my chargers was this one. This is the converter I used to safely charge my gamepad.
Get something like this. And plug in like you do at home.
http://www.amazon.com/MAXAH%C2%AE-Protector-Universal-Worldwide-Charger/dp/B00E0FZSQC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1405793055&sr=1-1&keywords=adapter
got one of these for 5 euro in a bodega style store in paris when I left mine at an airport. it worked with all of my electronics and did not "fry my shit". it's an adapter.
link
None! http://www.amazon.com/MX-UC1-Protector-Universal-Charger-Adapter/dp/B00E0FZSQC/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1457444965&sr=8-16&keywords=european+adapter This is indeed a good adapter.
In that case I would get this one http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E0FZSQC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1462380570&sr=1-1&refinements=p_36%3A1253503011%2Cp_72%3A1248879011&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=universal+plug&dpPl=1&dpID=415e286zV7L&ref=plSrch
Unless you plan to be camping in the wilderness for most of your trip, you're probably better off bringing a universal power plug adapter like this one. It's really small and light and much easier to carry around than a solar panel. As long as your USB battery pack and power converter support the voltages in those countries, you don't need a voltage converter. (Almost all USB power converters these days support 100-240V, so you are probably fine, but check to make sure so you don't start a fire or burn out your transformer or device.)
No problem.
I was also looking at an alternative solution from another reddit post which would use the following items:
If this makes sense then it would look something like this?
LED strip --> strip connector --> 10m extension cable (through ceiling) --> strip connector --> LED strip for cabinets on other side of wall
Found a very informative video of the ballast + LED strips + hue bridge: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VNfa9X5Sq1Q
That's already $93 + tax so if it makes more sense to just get a refurb hue strip kits and synchronize them to the same room (Kitchen) then I guess I will go with another set of hue strip kits.
I haven't purchased the LED's yet. I was looking at getting the two below and then splicing the power cord from the LEDs into the toggle switch/grounding wires.
LEDs
transformer
That way everything is grounded except for the light socket and hooked into the toggle switch. What do you think?
I believe I used these two:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K71VMCW/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MHKCTLE/
Greetings, Buckteers! I just installed my new 7020 LED strip powered by this adapter, and connected via this power jack adapter onto a bucket spacer and noticed only half of the LED is lit.
The other end of the strip does have wires soldered on, but I am not using them. My understanding of LED strips is that I could connect another adapter to those wires and I would not experience dimming due to voltage drop on that end. Does anyone have experience with this phenomenon? I have not contacted the seller yet. Thanks, y’all!!
Iv been looking for something like this, thanks. For those that are looking here's the parts...
LED strip
Power supply
Connectors
LEDMO Power Supply, Transformers,LED Adapter, 12V, 5A Max, 60 Watt Max, for LED Strip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01461MOGQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FEDqDbE02Z0BA this is the power supply we used!
Module: SainSmart 5V~12V Zero Voltage... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GDVVANA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Power Supply: LEDMO Power Supply, Transformers,LED Adapter, 12V, 5A Max, 60 Watt Max, for LED Strip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01461MOGQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OKGHDbACFYZQB
(You May want to find a 10a one instead)
Momentary Switch: yueton DC 36V 2A 16mm High Round... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0131XF9KS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Box: Pinfox 2 Pack Black Waterproof... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M5SZNR9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
The heat up time is how I calibrated it - ya I like it that way
I put a small rock at the bottom to adjust the height - see this guys post https://www.reddit.com/r/Dynavap/comments/d7pcew/make_sure_to_calibrate_your_home_made_induction
Without the rock it heats FAST - Too fast. I could try a smaller rock when I get around to it
Supply: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01461MOGQ
IH module: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GDVVANA
I was more so talking about a normal power supply brick, something like this (DC power supply is the proper term, just used to incorrectly calling them transformers). I've used similar of these to drive simple LED strip light setups.
That one doesn't supply enough current unfortunately.
You can use a generic 12V supply so long as it provides 5A or more. Something like this one on Amazon would probably work provided the tip size is correct. Anyone know what the plug diameter is? 2.1mm inner / 5.5mm outer is the most common but you see a variety in the real world.
So, I would just go with 4A and assume you're ok, but that's just how I roll.
How much is your usb pulling, probably not much, honestly I really doubt you'll have a problem with the 12v/4a.
If you want to be safer, go with: https://www.amazon.com/LEDMO-Power-Supply-Transformers-Adapter/dp/B01461MOGQ but you'll still need a splitter.
If you're on a budget, it's pretty easy to convert an old PC power supply into a 12v bench power supply and those usually have more than enough power to power several battery chargers at once.
Or if that's too hard, you can buy one of these or even one of these or something similar and they'll do the job nicely and can usually power more than one charger if you wire things up properly.
Not that there's anything wrong with spending a few dollars extra for a charger that has an AC input, of course. (And that's what I'd suggest if you buy any new chargers.) And if you want to be able to charge two batteries at once, often it's cheaper to buy two seperate chargers than a single charger that can handle two batteries simultaneously -- at least check the prices.
I had picked up this charger from HK for about $20 about a year ago and it's been really good -- but they don't seem to carry it any more. And it doesn't do AC input so ... I see no reason not to go with ohhnoez's suggested charger if you do buy a new charger.
I put my intakes towards the top of the bucket and my exhaust fan in the lid. It mostly depends on what type of pot you're going to use. If it fills your bucket then you'll want to have them high enough so the air isn't blocked. If there's some space around it then you could go lower but be sure to leave a little space at the bottom if you plan to make a drainage tray. I planned my bucket with a 3 gallon smart pot in mind so i kept the intakes high enough to not be obstructed. There's a link to my first bucket in my profile as Ekropf was kind enough to put it on spacebuckets.com. I haven't taken pics of my 2nd bucket yet, but it's similar. That site has lots of great pictures and info. If you do end up using an intake fan you'll want to mount it somewhere that doesn't blow directly on the top of your pot as it will dry out the top layer of the medium too quickly so the wet/dry cycle will be tough to maintain.
I can't stress the passive intake enough. I was very much of the opinion that I was going to have 1 intake and 1 exhaust fan but some very good people here pointed me in the right direction before I started building. You can see the thread and comments in my profile. (Hoping I can pass along the knowledge I gained. The people on this subreddit are awesome and helped me immensely.) I was very pleasantly surprised by the pvc elbows. They're only about 80 cents each and since I had already ordered 2 fans I made a 2nd bucket. Also, if odor control is important to you then you'll want to maintain negative pressure in your bucket. Intake fans can lead to positive pressure and air leak whereas passive will guarantee negative pressure. Just Google it if you haven't read about it yet.
Regarding the fans; here's what I bought. They're plug and play for a regular outlet.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009OWRMZ6/ref=ya_st_dp_summary
I also got lamp dimmers for my fans and they work great. Here's a link but I found them for 7 bucks at a local home store similar to Lowes or Home Depot.
http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-TT-300NLH-WH-Credenza-Dimmer-White/dp/B0000DI241
I'd recommend getting a temp/humidity weather monitor and try your bucket with 1 fan first. You can always install a 2nd if needed. It's important to check temp/humidity with your pot and medium in the bucket...I found its much different than an empty bucket. Something like this...
http://www.amazon.com/AcuRite-00611A3-Wireless-Thermometer-Humidity/dp/B001B35APA
I found cheap bricks of coco at Petsmart. It's also used for bedding/substrate in reptile terrariums. Roughly 6 bucks for 8 quarts...add about 30% perlite or vermiculite and you can easily fill a 2-3 gallon pot.
http://m.petsmart.com/h5/hub?id=/reptile/substrate-bedding/exo-terra-coco-husk-tropical-reptile-terrarium-substrate-zid36-5133039/cat-36-catid-500013?null
Here's what I did for led side lighting and power supply. It's not an absolute must, but definitely helpful from what I've read.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01339F5ZO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1457338928&sr=8-3&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=led+tape+5630&dpPl=1&dpID=512cIyl2inL&ref=plSrch
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01461MOGQ/ref=psdcmw_15704861_t1_B01339F5ZO
If you have any more questions, feel free to pm me. I highly suggest looking through spacebuckets.com though...it'll give you lots of different ideas and you'll be able to see how they work before building your bucket.
Hope this helps!
I've been using this power supply for two 16ft light strips that are connected to one controller and it's been working good.
LEDMO Power Supply, Transformers,LED Adapter, 12V, 5A Max, 60 Watt Max, for LED Strip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01461MOGQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9YTRDb5S1HY57
Here's what I think I've settled on - Thoughts?
Magic Home RGB controller - Flash with ESPHome
BTF-LIGHTING WS2811 - 12v, 60led per meter, individually addressable.
Power Supply - 12v, 5a, 60w - Do I need to step this down to power the Magic Home with 5v, and the strip qith 12v, or can the MAgic Home handle 12v?
Step-Down - If I do need to step down.
No you need something more like this
LEDMO Power Supply, Transformers,LED Adapter, 12V, 5A Max, 60 Watt Max, for LED Strip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01461MOGQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dfX2DbY18XP3R
This is what I got.
https://www.smile.amazon.com/dp/B013C2U09S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oCdsybMS72SB8
https://www.smile.amazon.com/dp/B01461MOGQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eDdsybYH0EKW5
They don't have ones that are specifically white -> red but what you could do is buy addressable RGB LED strips and use a controller to do that. Adafruit would be a good place to start. https://www.adafruit.com
Hah! Not at all, this is the one I got. LEDMO Power Supply, Transformers,LED Adapter, 12V, 5A Max, 60 Watt Max, for LED Strip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01461MOGQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AME1DbXG6XC11
Had a lot of issues deciding, myself. For the price, I went with this and skipped the MOSFET. I followed this guide to the T, if it helps.
https://www.reddit.com/r/Dynavap/comments/c94dxj/comment/etwdtf8?utm_source=amp&utm_medium=&utm_content=comment_timestamp
This one works wonderfully, and at a great price (~$10)
12 V LEDs?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01461MOGQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1492592370&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=12v+led+transformer&dpPl=1&dpID=51LCdONZWbL&ref=plSrch
This’s the one I bought.
I'm satisfied with this one https://www.amazon.com/Listed-Poweradd-Travel-Power-Adapter/dp/B014SII7FO/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1506600194&sr=1-4&keywords=220V+to+110V+converter
I have and love this one -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014SII7FO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Has multiple outlets and USB chargers.
No, but I was probably just going to plug this charger into the adapter. I also bought this as a backup.
I don't really know the first thing about adapters, chargers, etc. so feel free to call me out if I made a mistake there. I still have a few more days to make another purchase before the trip.
I did the same thing when we go on trips ... It has some of the places I want to see vs. do you want to do Capri, Positano, Sorrento and Pompeii. For Thailand, I'm pretty sure someone stole the one I have and love this one -. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014SII7FO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1.
Lots of cheap & easy options like u/Freedom95 referenced: https://www.amazon.com/slp/light-socket-to-plug-adapter/gmtayufhb75x6de
More expensive all-in-one option if you don't have room for your USB charger in the light fixture: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EPC102A
This is only $18. That and some velcro or double sided tape...
I use this outside at the far end of my garage with a smart bulb plugged into it so I dont have to flick the switch for light https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EPC102A/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Was the Original Power Supply suppose to be AC or DC, and what is the power supply you bought?
And what is the voltage suppose to be? 12v, 24v, 5v, other?
https://www.amazon.com/Gonine-Adapter-Connector-Compatible-Devices/dp/B07MB1M51Z/
https://www.amazon.com/110V-220V-Converter-Lighting-Transformer-Flexible/dp/B073QTNF9F/
https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Universal-Adjustable-Household-Electronics/dp/B07QX4J9VY/
https://www.amazon.com/Belker-Universal-Adapter-Supply-Speaker/dp/B07N18XN84/
How can I control a 330mAp, 12VDC LED strip from running off a 12V DC5A power supply from a pi model 3?
I am able to power the LEDs connected to the power source via a bread board, however I have not yet figured out gpio pin control. I have considered a physical relay (too loud) and a tip120 transistor (potentially gets too hot).
Thanks!
Power strip
LEDs
Padarsey 12V 30A Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply Driver for LED Strip Light CCTV Radio Computer Project https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X96ZKK1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AYoCDbQD1SXH5
[UL Listed] Chanzon 12V 5A 60W AC DC Power Supply Adapter (Input 110V-220V, Output 12 Volt 5 Amp 60 Watt) DC Converter LED Driver Lighting Transformer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073QTNF9F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FZoCDbQQB3TWC
Thanks for the advice! So if I grabbed this three pack, could I power the board and MOSFETs with this power supply? I plan to use these LEDs, which say to use a 10A dimmer, but since I'm planning to cut the strip in at least 3 pieces, I don't think I need that much.
Another poster mentioned that I'd need something to keep the time, they mentioned an esp8266 to connect to my wifi, do you think that's necessary, or is there some way I could set the time without one?
Damage to the drives would only happen if you used a really crap 12V PSU. If you're shopping on Amazon, you'll want something with a name brand and proper certifications attached, so basically anything that isn't the bottom of the barrel. Assuming you matched the voltage and polarity the only thing that can get damaged is the PSU. If you pull too many amps through it, it'll either burn out or catch fire, so I never ran more than four drives per PSU.
Also, splitters totally exist, pretty much all of those drives use a standard barrel jack and the same kind of wall-wart. The only thing you need to validate is that the wall-wart that goes with the drive is 12V and center-positive polarity. Then you can use whatever splitters and adapters you need to get the power from your brick to the drive.
Here's what I personally used:
12V5A PSU: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073QTNF9F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
1-to-4 barrel jack splitter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KWWLEBK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Size converters: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079KTR49T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (Out of stock but you can probably use the title as a search term and get something useful)
Unfortunately I can’t run a wire from the unit because I’m in an apartment. Should I keep the jumper and remove the wire going from transformer to RC? (So the transformer would only power the C)
I know these are probably basic questions so I appreciate the help man.
Btw I’m using this type of transformer.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075PN6NCV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MXqzDbKY8SWCF
I got this:
24 Volt Transformer, C-Wire Power Adapter for Ecobee Nest Honeywell Emerson Sensi, Ring Doorbell Pro, Nest Hello, Skybell, Smart WiFi Thermostat and Doorbell Power, 25 ft Cable by Fyve Global https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075PN6NCV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HTKiDbK0DNCZ1
Here are the wires. The green one comes out at the heater and just hangs (not connected to anything). The wall heater in the bedroom does not have a green wire.
If I purchase an adapter, can I just use it as the C wire?
Maybe? 24 Volt C-Wire Power Adapter/Transformer for Ecobee Nest Honeywell Smart Wifi Thermostat By Fyve Global | 25 Foot Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075PN6NCV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nl20BbXE66AP7
sorry for bothering you again. i found this thermostat voltage adapter on amazon (https://www.amazon.com/Transformer-Honeywell-Thermostat-Fyve-Global/dp/B075PN6NCV). would this work for my system if i use it to power Nest (as there is no C wire). thank you
Here is an album I took of the control board. I have tried running my own C-wire from an outlet separate from the control board and that did not work for the Ecobee3 lite
this is what I used for that: https://www.amazon.com/Transformer-Honeywell-Thermostat-Fyve-Global/dp/B075PN6NCV
I’ve installed many Nests in two wire only heating systems. Unless you have multiple zones, you have a very low chance of needing a common wire installed.
However, if installing a new bundle of wires is something you don’t want to do or don’t have the money for, here is another solution:
24 Volt C-Wire Power Adapter/Transformer for Ecobee Nest Honeywell Emerson Smart WiFi Thermostat by Fyve Global | 25 ft Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075PN6NCV/
Thanks for all y'all's input! I've got an ecobee3 lite and I'm going to try the 'repurpose G wire as C wire' tactic this evening (we never use the fan independently of the furnace -- pretty sure my wife is unaware that's even an option).
​
In the event that doesn't work, my plan is to supply 24V to the thermostat with one of these (which quite conveniently includes a wiring diagram in the product images).
​
mad props to this blog post that linked the 24V power supply and goes into a little greater detail.
​
quick disclaimer: I am not the author of that blog, nor am I qualified to be offering wiring advice.
Did a little research real quick so I could give you the correct spots to hook it up. here is a link to what you buy and you will hook one to your C port and one to your RC port. It does not matter which one. Also make sure you move that small red jumper cable that’s connecting your RH to your RC.
So basically you will have four wires. (Important to remove the tiny red wire!)
A red and black cable from your wall. Red will go RH and black will go to W.
2 wires from your new transformer. One will go to C and one will go to RC. (Doesn’t matter which one because they can interchange. Plug it into your outlet and you’re all set. Literally takes 5 minutes!
Not trying to persuade you one way or the other, but you might just want to take a look at what is involved using the adapter. It's very simple if you go that route. Here's a link to one on amazon. This is the one I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Transformer-Honeywell-Thermostat-Fyve/dp/B075PN6NCV?ref_=nav_ya_signin&
To be honest though, I'd probably go with the programmable thermostat except I like the remote sensors with the ecobee and also being able to monitor the temperature when I'm not at home because I'm paranoid like that!
That one looks good. Here is one I found that is rated for the nest but only outputs 300mA.
https://www.amazon.com/Transformer-Honeywell-Thermostat-Fyve-Global/dp/B075PN6NCV
If it only requires 300mA, then either one will work.
I've seen a few of those and honestly was wondering if they'd work on any thermostat. I've found ones like this https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Transformer-Honeywell-Thermostat-Fyve/dp/B075PN6NCV/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549852751&sr=8-3&keywords=c+wire+adapter and wondered if I could possibly use it on, say, a Nest thermostat like this one https://www.amazon.com/Nest-T3007ES-Thermostat-Temperature-Generation/dp/B0131RG6VK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549842584&sr=8-3&keywords=smart+thermostat&vas=%7B%27vw%27%3A%27B01E4FWXY2%27%7D or any other thermostat that required the use of a C wire to operate.
Thank you for the response, @dapala1
​
Yes, the two black wires are from the 24V transformer C wire adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Transformer-Honeywell-Thermostat-Fyve/dp/B075PN6NCV
​
If I tape up the other black wire, the ecobee will not turn on. Should I try something different?
I wonder if adding this to my thermostat would work?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075PN6NCV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8kOMBbDXX81VD
You can purchase plug in transformers that provide the voltage for the c-wire depending on your system and thermostat. Here is an example on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075PN6NCV/
The c-wire is suppose to be for providing power to the thermostat. Some thermostats have built in batteries and so the c-wire provides voltage to keep battery charged. Not sure about Ecobee thermostat.
/u/DrkMith Your post is super clear, and incredibly helpful. Yes, I do run the fan on occasion for circulation. That add-a-wire device seems like magic; very cool and handy and seems like my best option. I watched the video, it's within my capabilities I believe. If you've installed them before, any advice or watchouts?
One other note, if all I need is the C wire to the nest to get the setup to work, could I instead use a 24vac transformer connected to a normal outlet? Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075PN6NCV/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_Im6QDbHZ0Y450
Thank you for your expertise on this.
Looks like you have everything you need..should be able to use pek
Or you get one of these
24 Volt Transformer, C-Wire Power Adapter for Nest Honeywell Emerson Sensi, Nest Hello Skybell Smart WiFi Thermostat and Doorbell Power, 25 ft Cable by Fyve Global https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075PN6NCV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mshRDb7B8FXEX
I don't have a c-wire in my steam heat system either. Got a Nest Gen 3 thermostat coz National Grid was selling it for $109 as part of Earth Week. I ordered a plug-in transformer to act as a c-wire. The reviews sound promising. Will report back once I have it installed.
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Transformer-Honeywell-Thermostat-Fyve/dp/B075PN6NCV
This is basically what I need, because there is no options to put one in for my Air Handler/Furnace.
I never tried disconnecting it completely. I bought a power supply from Amazon for it and have it on, but not actually controlling anything.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075PN6NCV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is the only thermostat on my system....it’s a small house, so just one zone. I found a 24v transformer without the relay that’s included in the venstar, has high reviews. Is the relay aspect in the venstar really needed?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075PN6NCV/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Might I suggest keeping one of these in your pruse for future outlet hording jerk faces. Works great when when you have many devices too.
I use mine for a fan and a lamp, and it works okay for me. Keep in mind that if you use it in a noisy place it can turn off/on by accident. I haven't tried using it with my "main" light (e.g. a lightbulb), and I'm not even sure it's possible. So if you're looking to use this to replace a light switch, you could certainly find a better product or solution.
Here's what I found:
Remote activated version:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000G80V28/ref=redir_mdp_mobile?qid=1254455989&redirect=true&ref_=sr_1_1&s=hi&sr=8-1
This would be better if you wanted more direct control, but it still won't control a light switch. Alas, all my Google Fu has failed me. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful, and good luck
I have never used one of those. What i’m talking about is one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B7PK1TC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518871306&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ground+lift+plug&dpPl=1&dpID=41dPZcX6HSL&ref=plSrc
Both devices will likely get rid of your hum. Whether the $80 one is actually any safer is another question, and one that i’m unqualified to answer.
Here is a pack of death-dapters for you: Heavy Duty Grounded USA American to European German Schuko Outlet Plug Adapter - 6 Pack
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B7PK1TC/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1478649876&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=3+prong+to+2+prong+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=41dPZcX6HSL&ref=plSrch Not exactly recommend but they do work
I know this isn’t what you asked about, but you can get adapters to make 2 prong outlets into 3 prong
https://smile.amazon.com/GE-Polarized-Grounding-Adapter-14404/dp/B00B7PK1TC
It’s likely not a permanent solution but it’s a quick fix you can use to get your toaster working while you figure out the long term.