(Part 2) Best electrical cords, adapters & outlets according to redditors

A surge protector is NOT a extension cord. If you every work in construction/wood working/work with power tools you will know the necessity to have extension cords.

extensions cords are tend to have a schema of being yellow or orange.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Vinyl-Outdoor-Electric-Extension/dp/B00OS7ETIA

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N1LVQLR/

THATS an extension cords.

https://www.amazon.ca/Belkin-BE112230-08-12-Outlet-Power-Protector/dp/B000J2EN4S

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-6-Outlet-Protector-2-Pack-2-Foot/dp/B014EKQ5AA/

These are surge protectors.

And most extensions cords as not known as surge protectors. They are different.

These sell on Amazon for $5.

Rotating outlet on Amazon

There are also these mod wires frequently bought with an Anker SD adapter.

I actually went in the opposite direction, favoring compactness over convenience. I just use a 3-outlet tap combined with the power adapter for whatever country I'm in.

I've never had issues fitting things on the outlet tap and it packs up to a tiny size.

This is what I think of when someone says "extension cord":

GE 12 Ft Extension Cord, 3 Outlet Power Strip, 2 Prong, 16 Gauge, Twist-to-Close Safety Outlet Covers, Indoor Rated, Perfect for Home, Office or Kitchen, UL Listed, White, 51954 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00178HJ6C/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_VaCPDbJ7ZKZPX

Even though it says "power strip" in the title, which is what I'd call your linked item, I think they put it there for search hits.

Im pretty sure its one of thoes extension cords with a light on the female end, like this. It looks like someone just stripped the insulation off some romex and stuck it in the end of the cord, instead of putting a male end on it.

I use the Anker charger https://www.amazon.com/Charger-Anker-Premium-Desktop-Delivery/dp/B072K5ZJXF/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=anker+usb-c+charger&qid=1556286951&s=gateway&sr=8-5

​

But I would now purchase the updated Powerport PD4

https://www.anker.com/products/variant/powerport-atom-pd-4/A2041121

​

It takes a double barrel (C7) plug/cable, so I just ordered C7 power plugs for the countries I needed

https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-adapter-60320-C7-receptacle/dp/B004OHHKSU/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=IEC+60320-C7&qid=1556287077&s=gateway&sr=8-3

​

Upside is I have the choice of bringing the cable or the plug (or both).

smell it

i have this 15 amp 25ft 12 gauge
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KKLMO8?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

You need these

Yes.

I have run with multiple computers in a rackmount up through the floor to multiple monitors & a TV for ages, as in since 2004. Currently have it down to one PC and up to 9 monitors and no TV. Never any issues, and the silence is wonderful.

15' video cables are inexpensive at monoprice, DVI, DisplayPort, VGA, whatever you need. Longer are available if needed as well. More so for DVI and HDMI, less so for DisplayPort.

15' USB 2.0 cables work fine as well, plug in a powered hub at your desk. Plug into that your keyboard, mouse, and a USB DAC (USB sound card essentially for good quality sound) $8 cheap to $140/$150 expensive, or use a 15' audio cables as well. Hookup a USB CD/DVD drive as well if you really use it that often, I never do, so a short walk is in order on rare occasion. These are the hubs I'm using currently, they work a treat. They have a built in cable so a USB A/A extension cable is all that's needed which also gives a bit more distance than the extension length you go with.

If you need to hard power cycle the box for some reason take a walk, or hookup a cheap remote AC power outlet switch (used for lamps and such) such as this or this, cost about $15 at home improvement stores, and set the BIOS to always power on after power loss. Kill power with remote, unit goes off, power on with remote, unit boots up fresh.

Any other questions ask or send me a PM.

http://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-adapter-60320-C7-receptacle/dp/B004OHHKSU/ref=cm_cr_pr_sims_t/191-1359208-5556450 and http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004OGXY72/ref=s9_simh_gw_p23_d11_i2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=0ZCC81D78CV9B8X8Z65N&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=1970559082&pf_rd_i=desktop

Just be aware the second adapter needs some modification with a knife to get some of the plastic.

Just to emphasize: You really need a heavy duty extension cord to do this safely, preferably with 12 ga conductors. This would work nicely:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KKLMO8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1420349476&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=41CDHU8QEsL&ref=plSrch

Also, a bit of dielectric grease and electrical tape will really help keep the connection clean.

www.amazon.com/dp/B000VWC27G/

At 100 feet long and 8 amps a 12 gauge cord will result in a 2.12% voltage loss. (3.18% at 12 amps)

This is the cord I use: ​https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0020YKLQW/ref=cm\_sw\_em\_r\_mt\_dp\_U\_P5fSDbFDW40W2

Speaking of products, I can say these little adapters work well for those of you that have non-standard plugs and need to rotate your Beacons to the designed-for orientation. No association with Amazon or the product maker; just a customer. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002Z7EDCC/

The white color of the swivel adapter is an excellent match with the Eero Beacon and and the offset from the wall of maybe the thickness of the Beacon itself looks quite bespoke.

I understand what you're asking for, u/vm_x2a_nix. To clarify for other users: the wall box in your room is installed horizontally so the nightlight is sideways, and you want a switched receptacle in your daughter's room.

This will handle the receptacle in your bedroom, and this is your solution for your daughter's room without having to run any new Romex.

Hope this helps.

So amazing you too can own it for 17.60 with free shipping!

That and you can even get ones with the extensions built in they seem cluttered tho.

AMAZING

Here is the desktop version of your link

You could use something like this

You need this.

P-A000146N - 6" Extension Cord with Flat Rotating Plug - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UKKBAE0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1oAFDbD6DDG81

No, but there are cheap adapters available online. Search on your favorite e-commerce site for a rotatable surge protector adapter. They're about $9 a piece, and will protect your eero from power spikes into the bargain.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002Z7EDCC for example.

Is this short enough?

SF Cable, 2 prong plug adapter,USA IEC 60320-C7 receptacle to NEMA 1-15P https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004OHHKSU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JsgZzbKC0C491


Non Polarized NEMA 1-15p, I think.

Ive been in one hostel in 4 months that had USB power outlets. Simply put, no hostels dont offer this. Just buy adapters now cause theyre cheaper on amazon than in the stores. I guarantee you will be buying them within a day once you get to your destination.

I bought a pack on amazon for 8 bucks that has all the adapters you will need in every country you go to.

Id say ditch the solar panel (unless you plan on camping a lot) and keep the USB battery pack. Battery packs are extremely useful if your hostel is short on plugs or youre on a long train/bus/plane that has no outlets.

Our house has every single outlet with the ground prong facing up. It is the first house I've ever lived in that has them that way and I hate it. It drives me nuts. I've replaced the one in the laundry room with a rotating receptacle in order to use it at all due to clearance. I've had to make sure to purchase plug-in refresheners that have rotating plugs (pretty much Febreeze and only Febreeze, which are expensive as hell, and yeah I know they are supposedly fire hazards). Almost every flat extension cord you can find expects the ground pin on the bottom, so I have to deal with the one behind the couch pointing up and unnecessarily straining the cord.

Every Kill-A-Watt and timer I have expects the ground pin on bottom, so I have to deal with every display, every text, every read-out being upside down. One of these days, I'm going to reorient every one of them.

I get the ground-makes-contact-first argument, but I think it's unsubstantiated hogwash. The probability is just too low. I don't keep boxes of paperclips, staples, or sheet metal near outlets where they can fall from directly above onto exposed prongs. Plus, the 2014 NEC mandated AFCIs in all branch circuits feeding dwelling unit rooms, not just bedrooms. So there is better protection in new construction from the get-go. If we stood to gain anything appreciable in terms of safety, the NEC would have already made the ground-pin-up orientation mandatory.

Edit: add links

Roll #1
Roll 2
connector between both rolls

I looked through all the comments so I'm pretty confident this hasn't been mentioned yet.

Something I always travel with is an outlet converter and a small portable power strip.

This combo really come in handy when you need to use more than one outlet at once (charge a phone, laptop, and digital camera battery, etc.), especially if you're traveling with another person.

I have both of the items linked, and neither take up much room in my carry on luggage (I have an Osprey Porter 46). They're easy to tuck away in a nook, and the power strip's prongs fit into itself, eliminating bulk.

These could go really well the the battery pack many have suggested. Gotta keep all those devices juiced up!

If your flight is on time (which it rarely is at LAX), you might get outta there at 1:30-2:00 p.m. if you want to get to Santa Monica / Venice like other redditors have suggested. If you take public transportation, it'll probably take you an hour to get there -- plus you'll have to haul your luggage around. And because LAX is so busy and full of delays, you'll want to get back to the airport by 6:00 p.m. so you'll have to hop on the bus by 5:00 p.m. That gives you two hours at the beach. You can decide whether it's worth it to you.

Also worth noting: LAX also has like zero outlets for charging up. The outlets they do have usually require you to sit on the filthy floor near a pillar. And the wifi sucks. Also, public transportation is also terrible, so you might need to add some padding to the transit estimations above.

If you decide to stay at the airport, I would recommend loading up your machine with videos you buy on iTunes or some DVDs or something (so you don't have to rely on spotty wifi for Netflix) and then buying one of these things so that you're guaranteed an outlet ("Hey, mind if I unplug you to use this little contraption so we can both win!" Never fails).


Edit: Clarified that I was talking about getting to Santa Monica / Venice.

It's dual voltage (100-240V according to your image). Technically, you could just get a plug adapter and convert the US-style (Type A) two-prong plug into a two-peg EU-style (Type C).

These items are very cheap.

For example:

http://www.amazon.com/Ceptics-Europe-Asia-Adapter-Quality/dp/B0084OPT8C/

To make life easier, I suggest a Schucko-style adapter, as they fit more snugly in the socket and are grounded:

http://www.amazon.com/6PKSCHUKO-Grounded-American-European-Adapter/dp/B0038L54ZO/

Source: I am US person currently living in Europe, and all my electronics are using plug adapters.

Edit: Also, any charger will not work for fast charging. The charging block needs to provide the proper amperage. If you have other charging blocks, check their listed amperage and see if they match the one included with your phone.

I'm not sure of your electronics knowledge, so please don't take offense if I mention that voltage in indicated by a "V" (e.g., 240V), and amperage is indicated by "A" (e.g., 1.2A).

That switch is for low voltage, but you have the right idea. An an extension cord would be allowed, as this is not a permanent installation.

Something like these may interest you:

https://www.amazon.com/Remote-Switch-Extension-Cord-1PC-002-015FWH/dp/B000GAS3HG

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Foot-Switch-with-3-Outlet-9-foot-Power-Cord-Black-/302450857422

You’re adding a ground to your electrical, it can only make things safer really. Do you have a sliding window? If so just get a flat wire and close the window on it, maybe put some weather stripping in if it gets cold.

Wire it to one of these and then plug in a grounded power strip, and then all of your audio equipment can be grounded.

Leviton 274-000 Grounding Adapter, Gray, 2 Pack
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H5WGJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jn9LBbW3JRGRC

Or this...?

http://smile.amazon.com/SF-Cable-adapter-60320-C7-receptacle/dp/B004OHHKSU/

They have rotating ones:

https://www.amazon.ca/360-Electrical-36010-W-Rotating-Duplex/dp/B000VWC27G

Wouldn't put any heavy loads on them though

AmazonBasics 16/3 Vinyl Outdoor Extension Cord | Orange, 50-Foot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OS7ETIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_j432CbQ88F3EV

It is a 3 plug outlet like this:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Heavy-Duty-3-Outlet-54203/dp/B000EU4HBO/

Michael's has coupons for one item at 50% off from time to time so I was able to get the cases for $30 each.

Here is the light strip that I got:
https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Non-waterproof-Christmas-Decoration-Daylight/dp/B00HSF65MC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1500094562&sr=8-5&keywords=led+light+strip

This is enough to do both cases. For the power since I do not have them hung up where I would like them to be yet I just got a battery pack. This is the one that I am using now:

https://www.amazon.com/Octopak-2-s-Tm-Battery-Supply/dp/B00LH31OC2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1500094692&sr=8-3&keywords=led+light+strip+battery+pack

I then bought the a Y adapter so that I could power both strips at the same time.
https://www.amazon.com/ESUMIC-Power-Female-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B00G6G5DJ0/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1500094769&sr=8-2-fkmr3&keywords=led+light+strip+battery+pack+splitter

So here she is! So satisfying when you first power it up.

I've also got an earth wire going to the case I was just lazy and couldn't be bothered to add that to the diagram.

Diagram based off this by Gimido and I have to say great seller, really quick customer service.

Part | Cost
---|---
1/32 DIN Small PID | £16.61 | |
8A SSR | £2.56 | |
Aluminium Case | £16.64 | |
Female Black XLR Socket | £1.91 | |
Rocker Switch | £1.91 | |
Power Socket | £1.91 | |
Power Cable | £2.00 | |
16mm ID Coil | £38.35 | |
14mm Female Quartz Domeless Nail | £22.87 | |
Gimido Shipping | £23.01 | |
Import VAT | £15.00 | |
Total | £142.77

You could get something like this, open up the remote control and wire it up to your PC on/off switch. Easy as cake.
Edit: if you put your PC to sleep, maybe you could wire up your reset switch to the remote? Or just use the actual remote.. lol

Just a standard kettle lead goes into that, surprised you don't have a few lying around, they're used in monitors and things.

Or these.

I'd shop around, though, those are kind of expensive. I picked up a three pack at Target a while back for much less.

Better - bring one of these small enough it's in my laptop bag - I've even gone so far as to rip the ground off the male end , and this allows me to plug in almost anywhere, coffee shops, airports even in meetings around the office - and it's a great conversation starter - "Oh can I plug in?"

I'm also building up my gear. Here's some overlooked gear I've needed:

• power extension cord
  
• surge protected power strip
  
• cord straps
  
• gaffer tape
  
  [for your convenience](https://pluscompare.com/products/amazonbasics-16-3-vinyl-outdoor-extension-cord-50-feet-orange-vs-amazonbasics-6-outlet-surge-protector-power-strip-790-joule-white-vs-pasow-reusable-fastening-cable-tie-organizer-7-inch-black-50-piece-vs-tapeme-gaffers-tape-black-2-in-x-40-yards-10-8-mils-get-35-more-heavy-duty-gaffers-tape/B00OS7ETIA-B00TP1C1UC-B0154MS9Q0-B01G2FKMHM/ "extra video equipment")
  
  Edit: list format

I believe the Sunjoe also has a bit stronger motor.

One thing I STRONGLY recommend when getting this is to also pick up a 100ft 12 Awg (gauge) extension cord, and a GFCI-connector for it to plug into your house.

The GFI is there so that if you accidently hit the extension cord with the unit, you'll be protected by the GFI.

The reason for the heavier duty extension cord, is two fold: 1.) Sunjoe requires 12awg for 100ft runs. The second, if you ignore this, the motor will overheat and you will reduce the life span of the unit.

Recommended GFCI

US Wire and Cable 74100 Extension Cord 12awg, 100ft Yellow I bought this one.

Southwire 100 ft Yellow Extension cord 12awg This one is cheaper, but I can't find much information on it as far as the shielding goes.

I also bought their extension cord spooler for like 5 dollars or something crazy cheap, and it's... well it's super cheap, but hey it holds the extension cable just fine.

Sure you can get a 12awg extension cord with the GFCI built into it, and save some money, but I like having them separate, and that way I can make sure that the GFCI portion is up against the house and not in the yard, since it doesn't do you any good if you hit the cable behind the GFCI.

The great thing with adhering to a global standard (though in fact Apple does too, but as usual only on their own terms) is that you have options.

https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Adapter-60320-C7-receptacle/dp/B004OGXY72

https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-adapter-60320-C7-receptacle/dp/B004OHHKSU

https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Profile-Non-Polarized-IEC320/dp/B01886W21C

Or this https://www.amazon.com/2883-Heavy-Duty-Contractor-Extension-Lighted/dp/B000KKLMO8

You need to ground your amp. First, those outlets look pretty unsafe. You are hearing main line buzz (click the 60 Hz mains hum)

Really what you need to do is get an electrician to rewire the outlet with a proper ground and follow local electrical code. Not doing it is risk of death/electrocution/fire.

However, if it's not an option (e.g., renting or it's cost-prohibitive), you could get away with a plug adapters like the following:

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-274-274-000-Grounding-Adapter/dp/B000H5WGJ6/

if properly installed (e.g., the junction box is metal and grounded, and so you screw that adapter into the outlet so there's a connected ground). As a last resort if you like to live dangerously, you may be able to clamp an electrical wire to between the adapter ground and a metal water/radiator pipe (again if you are sure there's no non-metal connector anywhere along the pipe), if the pipe is grounded. You probably would want GFCI circuits if you are doing this, because if there is a ground fault (say from a bad appliance being plugged in), you don't want you metal water pipe to suddenly become live and potentially electrocute you and/or start a fire.

Once the outlet is grounded you should test with a ground tester (like $5) and verify you have a real ground and no other issues.

There could additionally be other grounding problems if the wiring in the guitar is bad or the cable is also bad, but you will have bad buzzing if you don't fix the ground first.

EDIT: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nakpj_Mee0Q

I forgot to mention about the adapters. Japan uses almost the same plug as the US, except they don't have a ground (third prong). There's a good chance your chargers don't use ground either. If that's the case, no adapter needed. If you happen to have something that has a ground, you can get grounding adapter for pretty cheap at a grocery or hardware store.

Japan uses 100V, 50 Hz (east) / 60 Hz (west). Most electronics operate ok in that range, but do check the labels. It doesn't look like you considered it, but don't bother bringing a hair dryer. It likely won't work properly.

One of these, perhaps?:

https://www.amazon.com/P-A000146N-Extension-Cord-Flat-Rotating/dp/B00UKKBAE0

https://www.amazon.com/360-Electrical-36083-1-Outlet-Protector/dp/B002Z7EDCC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=rotating+plug+adapter&qid=1568281283&sprefix=rotating+plug&sr=8-3

They even have a 4 outlet version and it’s a surge protector so may as well give the eero a little protection, can’t hurt

If it's that close it's only a matter of time before it falls and hits your leg, just buy a new one for $30 it'll be worth it in the end.

EDIT: The cord is cut, just buy a new cord for $15.

How about get something like this, cut off the switch portion, wire it into your project with a strain relief bushing on your enclosure?

Yeah, grab a UK kettle lead and you should be good.

You want to use 24v strip in these cases in order to not have to deal with power injection, which is where novices can easily get into trouble. With 24v you can run up to 10M, or 32.8ft, and is such often sold in 10M reels. Purchase four of these and cut each down to the length of it's respective wall, being sure to only cut on the line in the center of the copper pads every 6 LEDs.

{With addressable strip, the pixel "size" is TYPICALLY determined by voltage, so for 24v strip, each 6 LEDs will act as a single "pixel," when playing back patterns, 12v strip is 3 LEDs, 5v is 1.}

After cutting the strip to length, you will want to remove the connectors from the cut off ends and solder them to your new ends. IT IS IMPORTANT FOR THIS SCENARIO TO NOT solder on the RED (+24v) wire, as it will be safer to use 4 smaller power supplies, you are only wanting to interconnect the green Data wire and white Ground wire between each strip. If using IP68 waterproof strip, don't forget to remove the silicone endcap from your cut end, replacing it on the new end with a dab of silicone sealant.

Attach the 2.1mm socket adapters to the RED (+) and White (-) bare wires at the beginning of each strip using a jewelers screwdriver. Connect the 3-pin connectors between each strip, and tape off the bare wires with electrical tape, then connect the PSUs to the last three strips. For the first strip, connect it's PSU to the 2.1mm splitter, plugging one end into the strip and the other into the controller. Wire the 3pin connector included with the controller to the Data and Ground of the controller, again in this case, DO NOT CONNECT THE RED (+24v) WIRE to the controller; just wrap the end in electrical tape. Finally, connect the 3-pin connector from the controller to the first strip and power up your PSUs. From here it's just configuring the controller with your phone or tablet.

4x: https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Visdoll-Flexible-Addressable-Programmable/dp/B075GCKPHB?th=1&psc=1

4x:https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B074GJ22P6/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A325274ZEF9XYZ&psc=1

1x: https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Controller-Individually-Addressable-Programmable/dp/B01LW1J10W/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541825064&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=4+output+ws2811+controller&psc=1

1x: https://www.amazon.com/Chanzon-Female-Connector-Security-Adapter/dp/B079RCNNCK

1x: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G6G5DJ0/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1

http://www.audioholics.com/home-theater-connection/ground-loops-eliminating-system-hum-and-buzz

you actually want to get rid of one of your grounded cables. Probably from the PC. I used one of these https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-274-000-Grounding-Adapter-Gray/dp/B000H5WGJ6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1496501986&sr=8-2&keywords=ground+plug

except you can often get a 2 pack of them from the local hardware store for like 1 or 2$

Edit: and the plug is not a permanent fix just a troubleshooting method. once you figure out its the ground loop you can take the appropriate measures.

There are four potential problems.

• The difference in voltage. Bangladesh is 220v 50Hz as opposed to 110v 60Hz in the US. Check that your electronics are okay with this -- most are but it's generally in tiny writing on the transformer. If you're electronics aren't okay with this, then you need a transformer to convert the power to 110v (your electronics still need to be able to handle 50Hz).
  
  
• The shape of the prongs. You can get one that tries to do everything, but I prefer ones like these and just take the one I need which is smaller and more reliable. Most of the AAA stores sell these.
  
  
• Plugging a grounded cord into an ungrounded outlet. With most of the travel adapters you can just do this -- the ground prong misses the adapter and is too short to interfere with the wall outlet. I had one where I needed to file down the plastic a bit to make it work, but most just work.
  
  
• Plugging a grounded cord into an ungrounded outlet safely. If this is safe is another question. Most electronics just use the ground outlet in case of a surge that causes arcing, but some need it to reduce interference. If you're really worried about arcing, you can get a GFCI adapter -- under most US building and electrical codes you can install a 3-pronged GFCI outlet and not connect the ground since the Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter is a type of circuit breaker that will cut the power if anything connects to the ground. So if you have a GFCI adapter you can cut off the ground pin and be reasonably safe. Although finding a GFCI that can handle 220v in the US can be difficult, so you're probably better off not bothering.

http://www.amazon.com/2883-Heavy-Duty-Contractor-Extension-Lighted/dp/B000KKLMO8

With out knowing your exact model to look the motor information up I'm not sure where your 15A draw on the motor is coming from, but if I had to guess its your full load amps, which is above your operational current. Any heavy duty extension cable will be able to handle your staring current which will be ~3x your FLA.

If your FLA is 15A you can use 12A rated cable, sense you can account for the duty cycle of your usage being below the FLA.

http://www.amazon.com/Power-Strip-Liberator-Extension-Cords/dp/B000EWVSZK

Much more versatile.

I'd recommend thicker gauge extension cables to support the 15amp circuit and heavy duty gaffer tape (don't use it on walls) to hold it down. Try to balance laptops and desktops, not just for electrical load balancing, but table space.

https://www.amazon.com/2883-Heavy-Duty-Contractor-Extension-Lighted/dp/B000KKLMO8

https://www.amazon.com/Polyken-Coated-Premium-Gaffers-Length/dp/B00DZ5V2IG/ref=sr_1_16?s=industrial&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1479774940&sr=1-16&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011

If the bios to your mother board will do wake on power, I would recommend using that to power on your PC. Just get a wireless remote for an outlet so you can turn on the power at a press of a button http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000G80V28 or you can do a wake on keyboard from the ipac. I use this for all my arcade/Mame cabs. Shutdown can be handled from your front end.

The most time consuming part of any Mame build is configuring your front end. You should get that set up before you build anything. This will help you find what works and what your missing in advance.

Modified boating stuff:

A fuse box like this https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Blade-Block/dp/B001P6FTHC/ref=pd_bxgy_200_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001P6FTHC&pd_rd_r=X7BNG9NJZ9ZBBRRTJBR3&pd_rd_w=eatpQ&pd_rd_wg=QSpKm&psc=1&refRID=X7BNG9NJZ9ZBBRRTJBR3 which connects to this https://www.amazon.com/Marinco-On-Board-Charging-Inlets/dp/B000NI38MG/ref=pd_sbs_200_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01K9KDXOA&pd_rd_r=7194DMW9QGPTN4P39QBA&pd_rd_w=jkXDk&pd_rd_wg=IiMzj&refRID=7194DMW9QGPTN4P39QBA&th=1 connected with this https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Vinyl-Outdoor-Extension-Cord/dp/B00OS7ETIA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1525991665&sr=8-5&keywords=extension+cord. In fact some Skoolie people prefer using extension cords over romex entirely.

Our fuse box has a female plug coming off of it, allowing us to physically switch between sources - from battery to generator to shore power. To do 30/50 amp power is similar, but you need a lot more stuff, and is like wiring a house. I basically just added a fuse box to an extension cord. You drill a hole through the side of the bus to mount the second piece. It's pretty cool, to be honest.

Any RV owner will tell you that water is pernicious. Skoolies are the same way. You need to caulk your bus yearly - or at least go over it and look. We replaced the running lights, and did a wonderfully poor job of it, and I didn't caulk it. Then we walked on the roof, which the metal parts had no issue with, but the front of our bus is fiberglass and it separated from the metal, allowing a leak point.

Honestly, a cleaned and then painted roof (using Henry's RV paint for example) will make life very easy. You know how you can get by a couple years between coats of paint on your house? And how house roofs can go 15-30 years? Well, imagine if you drove your house around. It will need some attention before then. Just keep a can or three of silicone or paintable caulk on hand, and you'll be good.

Also, a very handy (if ugly) thing to get is butyl tape. Overpriced version is called flex seal, or you can hit up home depot for the roofing version. It's got a silvered back, and it's great at sealing holes... and sound proofing.

I no longer can put links in as words? I dislike the new reddit layout.

Plug adapters:

I have 3 of these kits:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E0P2GLM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I will tend to just bring one of the zipable bags with the relevant plugs for my trip. You will need UK and Euro plug adapters.

Inventory all the electronic crap you and your wife have. How are you situated for spare cables?

Basically, a lot of Euro hotels don't keep the power flowing without a keycard in the room, so you need to do all your charging at night. Don't incur stress because you are short a plug adapter

Camera - if you are bringing a DSLR, are you situated for batteries and SD cards?

I pack a collapsible umbrella and a rain coat. When I was more of a backpacker, the rain coat was rollable into a pouch.

Drugs - along with toiletries, I have a bag with Immodium AD, sunscreen, antacid, ibuprofen, bandaids(plasters).

I am not one of those carry on only people.

I had the same issue for YEARS. Finally solved it with grounding adapters for my monitors and sub. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H5WGJ6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

We use this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014SII7FO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hey, sorry it took me so long to respond. Your wiring looks OK i think, although im not sure what the black wire is. A few things:

1. Are you sure the code isnt working? What it does is simulate a button press so it actually flips the pin on, waits .2 seconds and flips it back. So maybe its working and it just doesn't look like it?
   
   
2. If its not working can you control the pins through some other method? Wiring Pi
   
   What I did to fully test my code before I wired it to my garage door is buy a really cheap white extension cord from lowes like this and I cut loose and stripped one side of it and connected it to the relay. Then I plugged a lamp into it and turned the lamp on, and made sure I could toggle the lamp with the relay code. Also used wiring pi to test.
   
   edit: Also i noticed the warning about pins in use in your screenshot. Maybe try a refresh reboot to clear everything out?
   

They are stranded, plus they do seem like they are small.
https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Balance-Charger-JST-XH-Connector/dp/B00REFEOWO/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?ie=UTF8&dpID=41MqZsFNyhL&dpPl=1&keywords=jst%20xh%20connector&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&qid=1456520190&ref=plSrch&ref_=mp_s_a_1_3&sr=8-3

It actually can mess up the PSU. Mine actually started randomly turning off while I was playing. I ended up using an outlet power tap.

Get one of these maybe? You can use the remote for this to hard turn off your wii

https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Outlet-Wireless-Remote-Outlets/dp/B000G80V28

More organizations needs to start looking at wall jacks like this. Instead of the RJ45 connection pictured, it should be a biscuit instead. Of course, there are other alternatives.

If the schuko converters you're talking about are like these then it's a bad idea.

The voltage will still be at 220V from the hot to nuetral on the powerstrip, which is only rated for 120V. Even though your devices may accept the 220V, the powerstrip becomes something of a fire hazard because it's at double its rating.

Yeah I have something like that but there are power outlets right by the lights and I want to avoid running extension cords all over the place for just the two plugs that are out of reach.. I'm looking at something more like this but maybe better quality
http://www.amazon.com/DSI-Outlet-Wireless-Remote-Outlets/dp/B000G80V28

yeah. I have been looking at those but im afraid having the outlets facing out like that will make it too deep. I can't find any good ones with the outlets facing sideways. I was also thinking about something that works like this, but with a hard angle coming out of the wall, and obviously 2 plugs at the other end.

I did, and I love it. Here are the bits I used:

• http://www.amazon.com/LEDMO-SMD5630-DC12V-Waterproof-Strip/dp/B01339F5ZO
  
• http://www.amazon.com/ESUMIC-Power-Female-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B00G6G5DJ0
  
• http://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Power-Adapter-Output-3229/dp/B00A3R5R5S
  
  I ran two strips off each power supply, total of 4 strips, one running underneath each beam crossing my garage ceiling in a ~20'x20' space. I'm very happy with the results. Here's a pic shortly after I got them up and running:
  http://imgur.com/8KtVZOH Note that there are several different types of LED strips, and I had to do some research to find which were the brightest. These light up my shop completely, and because light is coming from everywhere, there is very little in the way of shadowing. Also, I can move big pieces of wood around in the shop, and not worry about bashing light fixtures and breaking them, and it was ~$125 or so for all of the bits (the power supplies were the most expensive bit). They're pretty much ideal as far as I'm concerned.
  
  

Here is the desktop version of your link

I put an external switch on my aquarium stand that controls the power to my wavemakers, return pump and aqua lifter. I flip the switch off for feeding. When I flip it back on, the return pump fills up the HOB overflow, and the aqua lifter restarts the siphon on the overflow box. I also added a siphon break on my in-tank return about 1/4" below the surface of the water. I get a couple of gallons at the most that siphon back into the sump when I kill the return pump.

I am using something similar to this:

https://www.amazon.com/Ace-Remote-Switch-Extension-Cord/dp/B000GAS3HG

https://www.amazon.com/Worldwide-Adapter-International-Charging-Universal/dp/B00Y3ABJKS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467336506&sr=8-1&keywords=loop+power+adapter

This is the one I have, and the one I see recommended the most. I've used it in Iceland and mainland Europe and it works great. Haven't personally tried it in the UK, but it has the adapter for it.

Example: 50 ft 12/3 or 100 ft 12/3

12 gauge, 3 conductors.. Lop the ends off, join the conductors in the right manner.. not sure what length you're wanting, but it's an option.

EDIT: Less expensive option 100 ft 14/3 - the document also says they started with 14 AWG, so it will probably work fine for you.

Backpacking off this - I found this universal adapter on amazon.

My wife and I use this for our international travels and it works pretty well. I would recommend it heavily because it really does work well, we've used in Iceland, UK, Netherlands, and Hong Kong. Pretty much everything you need USB power for will run off this or that one you are looking at now.

Hey guys, I'm going to hardmod my n3dsxl and was recommended these cables
https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Balance-Charger-JST-XH-Connector/dp/B00REFEOWO/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?ie=UTF8&dpID=41MqZsFNyhL&dpPl=1&keywords=jst%20xh%20connector&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&qid=1456520190&ref=plSrch&ref_=mp_s_a_1_3&sr=8-3

but I can't get them, and this is my first time hardmodding so I don't want to order the wrong bits
can anyone recommend some cables that I could use within the uk?
thanks

Yes, it is fine with a thick gauge cord that is not worn out. Just be careful, because getting careless with it can cause a fire like with any high powered device.

I've been using this 100 ft cable for two years now. I went pretty thick on the gauge to help ensure safety, and it also helps lower losses. Thankfully I'll finally get a garage tomorrow, but this has served me well, allowing me to charge from my apartment every night I got a decent space.

I guess so?

That particular one is made to replace the wall plate of a regular outlet. But Yes you can use splitters in a surge protector.

Someone else mentioned using a rotating surge protector that goes between the beacon and the wall. Would using one of these interfere with the beacon, or be worse than putting in a new wall socket in the right orientation?

Most adapters are flexible all the way from 100V to 240V. It's written right on your adapter in tiny print, so go look.

If that's the kind you have, you only need a trivial plug-shape adapter like this for 2 prongs or this for 3 prongs.

It’s an older remote switch. The cord coming out of it should have a male/female plug left on table or wall to turn on lamps with hard to reach switches (any lower power device would work also). More modern example:

https://www.amazon.com/Remote-Switch-Extension-Cord-1PC-002-015FWH/dp/B000GAS3HG

It is possible if you line everything up correctly but I recommend this because you may accidentally use a usb c cable to usb to do it but it has to be an sd card reader.
edit: Why hardmod if you can just get a flashcart and get all the perks as a hardmod without the risk.

I'm also an 18 year old American who has travelled alone with another friend through Europe so maybe my tips can help, even though you'll be gone longer than I was:

​

Backpacks: When I travel, I tend to take my 21L backpack (I've backpacked through Europe for 12 days and 9 days, and some other places in the states), and have had good luck, although I wish I had a bigger bag, maybe 30-40L, so I can't really help you in what bag to get. For clothes, you could definitely get away with packing for 7 days and just washing them at the hostels.

Electronics: I obviously brought my phone with me, but I also brought an iPad rather than a laptop to cut down on weight since I was lugging my backpack everywhere I went, but if you need to bring your laptop then do it. I brought chargers for my devices as well as a power adapter that allowed me to plug in US wall adapters to European wall sockets. Something like this (that's the worldwide one so you can use it in every country). I also brought some headphones for traveling but that's personal preference.

Anti-Theft: Every time I've been abroad, I've never had issues with pick pockets, but that doesn't mean it doesn't happen. I was fine keeping valuables in an inaccessible pocket in my backpack (like a backside pocket), and my wallet and phone in my front pocket, and I would keep my hands in those pockets if I ever felt like it was necessary. Like I said, I'm also 18 but have never had any issues with theft.

Money: I had a AAA rechargeable debit card, but you can talk to your bank and see their rates for international use. I just used my AAA debit card and withdrew cash from ATMs and paid a small fee (I think $3 USD), so I would look into that if possible. If you're using your bank definitely don't forget to contact them so they don't deny your card, because that would be bad.

​

Sorry for writing a mini-novel, but I hope this helped at least a little bit. I know when I first went I didn't really have anyone but YouTubers helping me, but the best thing to do is to just try it out and see what works and doesn't for next time. Have a fun time, Europe is amazing :)

how about this

https://www.amazon.com/Remote-Switch-Extension-Cord-1PC-002-015FWH/dp/B000GAS3HG

Pretty much from any hardware/electrical shop to argos or tesco. Its the same type your power supply on your PC will have. if your not in a hurry

Can I plug in my HX Stomp into the courtesy outlet of a voodoo mondo? If so, will this extention cord work to connect the two? The orientation of the plug won't allow my board to lie flat.

P-A000146N - 6" Extension Cord with Flat Rotating Plug - Black

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UKKBAE0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kF.uCb6HZC90T

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-274-000-Grounding-Adapter-Gray/dp/B000H5WGJ6/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_lp_tr_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=QPYH3493HBC1VEB8HBGF

You need one of these. It's a surge protector that plugs into your outlet and can rotate 360 degrees.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002Z7EDCC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_3lrBDbQYSSMPZ

https://www.amazon.com/US-Wire-74100-Heavy-Duty-Extension/dp/B0020YKLQW

These wires are recommended in the hardmod thread. I used them twice myself, and they worked great.

I have mine on remote outlets (similar to these), nice and quick to turn them on and off, and then I used a simple cable channel to hide the power cable. I would get random shutoffs while playing with bluetooth. Not at first, but after a few months for some reason, it started doing that.

I'm coming from the US, and I'm bringing something like this:


http://www.amazon.com/Worldwide-Adapter-Charging-International-Charger/dp/B00Y3ABJKS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1454107246&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=international+plug&psc=1

You should only need a power cord, the Mac Plus power supply is inside the computer case. The cord you need is the same type commonly used for electric kettles: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Tex-Kettle-Power-Cable-Mains/dp/B003U798T4. Check the spec labels on your Mac to verify that the power supply is compatible with UK 220V voltage (it will be if it was bought from a UK dealer and is not a US 110V import).

Toss out that battery; you are lucky if it hasn't leaked. I think its only purpose is to power the clock circuit to maintain the date & time. A replacement might be expensive (like > £20 expensive) and it will work fine without it (but you'd need to set the date/time each session manually). It is a 4.5V alkaline PRAM, the Panasonic PX-21 camera battery is an example. Some people have whipped up home-brew alternatives using ordinary batteries.

Some useful websites: lowendmac.com, 68kmla.org. Great forums for chatting with other Mac Plus owners and asking questions.

I'm satisfied with this one https://www.amazon.com/Listed-Poweradd-Travel-Power-Adapter/dp/B014SII7FO/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1506600194&sr=1-4&keywords=220V+to+110V+converter

Non-angled version

http://www.amazon.com/Ziotek-ZT1212542-Liberator-14-Inch-Extension/dp/B000EWVSZK/

I have those. They're absolutely wonderful for this type of thing.

How exactly are those cheaper or simpler?

http://www.amazon.com/360-Electrical-36010-W-Rotating-Duplex/dp/B000VWC27G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369851531&sr=8-1&keywords=15+AMP+ROTATING+DUPLEX+OUTLET

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00178HJ6C/ref=s9_top_hm_awbw_b24qu_g60_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-11&pf_rd_r=0B1CFA0NRWVSBSEAN6MK&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_p=dc1d2038-c519-518b-a2d7-7c4425494781&pf_rd_i=495312

Cheap tripods are great for traveling, and I've given over a hundred demos with them, but they kinda get in the way, and the larger you make the footprint (to improve stability) -the more they encroach in your play space.

I use these tripods with these swivel adapter things for my on-the-road show. As long as they don't get bumped, you're good to go.

For home, I use This tension rod and this rod mount - you may need a longer rod- I run it from the top of my dresser to the ceiling and the top of my computer desk to the ceiling. The 87 inch one isn't long enough to go from floor to ceiling for me.

As far as other essentials, two of these help with plugging the lighthouses in. An HDMI Extender, Power extender, and a USB 3.0 Extender (those three work perfectly for me) will make your life 100x more easy, especially if your computer isn't directly next to your play space. The extra 10 feet makes a world of difference for reducing tangles, reducing the number of times you have to stop and untwist your cord, and making you not worry about yanking on your computer when you get to the far corner.

Lastly, this wireless keyboard thing will save you from running back and forth from your desktop.

---

As far as sweatyness, I got over the ickyness pretty quickly. My friends have mastered basic hygiene, and face sweat doesn't smell all gross or anything. After each demo, I run the foam under the sink to rinse it off, then dab it with a paper towel and set it on a box fan to dry. It's good to go as soon as the next person is done and I repeat the process. I ended up buying a set of new face foams from the HTC website after I lost my narrow face foam though :(

Definitely straight into the wall, but if you're like me and the standard plug won't fit, you can chop off the original plug and splice it into something like this. Or just plug it into something like that, but it wasn't clean enough for my tastes.

It sounds like the 2 and 3 prongs would both work? I've found these two...and it seems like either would seem one is two and one is three. And both seem to work in Italy regardless...?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0038L54ZO/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?qid=1462843165&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=european+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=412qrOLqL6L&ref=plSrch

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007YL6HY6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1462843770&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=us+to+italy+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=31xmYdMV3xL&ref=plSrch

This is what I used for the setup:

LED Strip lights

Plug splitter

[LED Power supply extension]
(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FTH6WNS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

LED Lights remote adapter

I have and love this one -

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014SII7FO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Has multiple outlets and USB chargers.

No, but I was probably just going to plug this charger into the adapter. I also bought this as a backup.

I don't really know the first thing about adapters, chargers, etc. so feel free to call me out if I made a mistake there. I still have a few more days to make another purchase before the trip.

Thanks for your reply.

Would this cord be suitable?
US Wire 74100 12/3 100-Feet SJTW Yellow Heavy-Duty Lighted Extension Cord
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0020YKLQW

This is the ac I am using.
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/spt-spt-14000btu-cooling-only-white/4485302.p?skuId=4485302

Pics of cord and side of ac.
https://imgur.com/a/2yFIk

Also, the manual says to not use an extension cord with the ac?
There is a test and reset button on the ac cord if that makes a difference.

2 and 3 are off and everything is already accounted for as far as I can tell.
5 and 6 are what I originally posted.

Does the circuit breaker make a sort of buzzing/crackling sound before it trips?
I had the ac on cause it gets to warm cause of the mining and I heard that and immediately shut off the ac.
There is a small humming now that I hear, but it could have been there before and I just didn't notice it until I heard the buzzing. Its noticeable enough that I think I would have noticed it.
Update: The humming went away after a while. Everything has been fine and I only run the pc and ac at separate times when mining.

How much would hiring an electrician for this cost? What would I look for when searching for one that knows what they are doing?
Thanks again, I appreciate everyone taking the time to help out and answer questions for everybody else that has no clue. :)

I did the same thing when we go on trips ... It has some of the places I want to see vs. do you want to do Capri, Positano, Sorrento and Pompeii. For Thailand, I'm pretty sure someone stole the one I have and love this one -. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014SII7FO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

Cord could definitely be an issue at 100 ft. There are a bunch of calculators around for how thick of a cord you need at various currents and lengths. This is the cord I got: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0020YKLQW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

a/c unit linked in another comment.

The Amazon ones claim 360 on the package. I'd trust the 270 degree ones more I think, although it would be fun to dissect one to see how sturdy the power busses are.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-media/product-gallery/B000VWC27G/ref=cm_ciu_pdp_images_2?ie=UTF8&index=2

Might I suggest keeping one of these in your pruse for future outlet hording jerk faces. Works great when when you have many devices too.

I use mine for a fan and a lamp, and it works okay for me. Keep in mind that if you use it in a noisy place it can turn off/on by accident. I haven't tried using it with my "main" light (e.g. a lightbulb), and I'm not even sure it's possible. So if you're looking to use this to replace a light switch, you could certainly find a better product or solution.
Here's what I found:
Remote activated version:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000G80V28/ref=redir_mdp_mobile?qid=1254455989&redirect=true&ref_=sr_1_1&s=hi&sr=8-1

This would be better if you wanted more direct control, but it still won't control a light switch. Alas, all my Google Fu has failed me. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful, and good luck

Here is a pack of death-dapters for you: Heavy Duty Grounded USA American to European German Schuko Outlet Plug Adapter - 6 Pack