Best electrical distribution products according to redditors

Yo guys, Steam link is $19.99 right now on Amazon if anyone's interested!!

I think the deal will end within 24 hours so be quick - saw it on the "today's deals" section.

I just placed my order (with a bunch of other stuff). Can't wait :D

DEAL IS STILL LIVE JUST SELECT AMAZON AS A SELLER https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B016XBGWAQ/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=all

Lowest price ever, usually goes for $20

https://np.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/search?q=steam+link&sort=new&restrict_sr=on&t=all

Edit: Game UK also has the same price with cheaper international shipping than Amazon!

http://www.game.co.uk/en/steam-link-816924

Power cords carry higher voltage than A/V cords (like HDMI cables). I'm not an electrical engineer or general contractor, but they emit enough heat that it is considered a fire hazard to run them inside residential walls due to lack of air flow. Additionally, it is not up to building code to run such cords within walls.

Instead, you need to either have an electrician properly install wall outlets as needed, or use a type of kit that allows for the TV's power cord to plug into an 'outlet' on the wall, then the kit's to-code cabling runs down and allows you to connect to an existing wall outlet.

Something like this:
https://smile.amazon.com/Datacomm-50-3323-WH-KIT-Panel-Organizer-Solution/dp/B001PB7UVA/

As running power cords inside walls violates building code, if your house were to catch fire due to this it's possible your home owners insurance wouldn't pay out a dime.

Bought this for my car and worked great until I upgraded the stock radio. You might need a antenna adapter though.

Also FYI for anyone who is looking into getting a Steam Link, it is currently on sale for $20.00 on amazon.

I was on the fence but decided to pick one up today :)

Absolutely, and you can even get it for $20 today in the US from Amazon

Same goes for the Steam Link (but they are temporarily OOS):

http://smile.amazon.com/Steam-Link-Pc/dp/B016XBGWAQ/

It's not a splitter, you're looking for a switch. And yes, they exist on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Awakelion-Switcher-Wireless-adapter-Supports/dp/B06WV5YJ6H/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1509739924&sr=8-3&keywords=hdmi+switch+hdr

I use it, works great.

Acxtually I think you'd want this guy

What you linked to is for watching one feed on two tv's.

If you are looking to do this yourself you need a combination of the following:

• Drywall knife (Something like Stanley 20-556 6-Inch FatMax Jab Saw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005QVQH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kw7Ezb2HJYX5K)
  
  
• Cordless Drill (Even a regular corded drill will work)
  
  
• Flexbit for drilling through studs if needed (Something like Eagle Tool US EA37518 Auger Style Flex Installer Bit for Wood, 3/16" Shank Diameter, 3/8" Head Diameter x 18" Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTFTORA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5x7Ezb81XWXP0)
  
  
• Glowrods (Something like 33' Electric Fiberglass Wire Pull Rods Fish Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LW4CFG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pz7Ezb7YCC3GD)
  
  
• Stud finder if you don't know how to knock on the wall to find the studs
  
  
• Wire pass through vanity plates (
  DataComm 45-0001-WH 1-Gang Recessed Low Voltage Cable Plate (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00193U3O0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VF7EzbAP6DKCZ)
  
  
• Tension bracket for drywall so you can mount the plates (Low Voltage Bracket Single Gang https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZWJGGE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PH7EzbM4KHX9H)
  
  
  If you are just going to mount the monitors right in front of your desk and don't need to go sideways like OP then you can just cut the drywall where you are going to mount the monitors and then go down to where your exit point will be and cut there and drop your wires through.
  
  If you need to do some fancy stuff - Ideally you would want to see if where all your studs were, measure the distance you'll need to bore through studs and then get glow rods and flex bits with sufficient length to do the job. Also your flex bit will need to be a big enough diameter to fit your cables through. Flex bits are super easy to work with.
  
  Hope this helps!
  
  

I was under the impression that code for electrical wiring doesn't allow for tv power cables to be in the wall. You can actually purchase "power bridges" for this reason.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PB7UVA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xyQHybSRV0P6H

I only mention this as it is possible for the tv power cord to catch fire in the wall. Although I haven't personally seen this happen, I dont know of any professional av installers that would run the power wire in the wall this way. They would either have an outlet installed or use a power bridge.

I used one of these for the super clean look. Pretty easy. Datacomm 50-3323-WH-KIT Flat Panel TV Cable Organizer Kit with Power Solution - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PB7UVA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uj5wCbWKSASAD

Same price on Amazon in case you don't want to deal with GameStop.

Pretty typical sale price for this, so don't think you need to jump on it immediately if you're on the fence. We'll see this price again.

https://www.amazon.ca/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y

I love that they auto swap input. Genius

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You want to make one?

I wouldn't know where to begin.

But here is a sweet 3 port HDMI switch that has IR.

Kinivo 301BN Premium 3 port High speed HDMI switch with IR wireless remote and AC Power adapter - supports 3D, 1080p

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049S6ZUS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_e6OQub1RJAXN9

For me, and I completely understand that this is a full throttle first world problem, it's about clutter and inputs. I already have 4 HDMI devices "connected" to a 3 HDMI input TV - and have to go pull cords when I want to use the extra one. A 5th would just add to that annoyance. That plus, more controllers I'd have to have laying around, more TV cabinet space I'd need to have to fit both devices... I understand these aren't deal breaking obstacles, but it would be nice to just replace one system with another and that be that.

Edit: took everyone's advice and got a switch. Just arrived: http://i.imgur.com/aDvMzUD.jpg

Here's the details of what I went with, for anyone curious:
Kinivo 501BN Premium 5 port High speed HDMI switch with IR wireless remote and AC Power adapter - supports 3D, 1080p
http://amzn.com/B0049SCB2Y

Also applies to the Steam Link.

Raspberry Pi 3

Raspberry Pi Clear Case

32GB MicroSD Card

Netatmo Weather Station

Wind Gauge

Rain Gauge

Rain/Wind Gauge mounts

3 Way HDMI Switch

1FT HDMI Cable

Wifi Adapter

Everything is attached to the back of the television with some double sided sticky paper things i had lying around. Anything will probably work.

The USB wall outlet is one that delivers 3.1A at 5V that we bought from our local hardware store.

The server that the software runs on is a poweredge r710 with dual x5670s and 64GB of ram. Of course, this isnt all it does, but it is one of the many things i host on it. :)

If you'd like, i can post the scripts i wrote for it as well.

Give me about an hour and I'll edit this comment with store links to what I got.

Edit: Here is the list

1. Receiver/Amp This is very basic and will only support the bookshelf speakers themselves. If you want to add a sub or center, your going to need a full on stereo receiver. WARNING - when plugging in the banana plugs into this receiver, i had to force them in a bit to make them stay in. I thought I broke it, but my friend who recommended me this receiver said thats how his is too. so if the banana plugs go in weird, its ok :).
   
   
2. Audio to RCA adapter. This is the wire to hook up to your PC. This could vary per setup. My setup goes from speakers to receiver, then receiver to PC with this cable. You could use RCA to optical cable as well. You have to make sure that if your PC is hooked up to your TV or monitor via HDMI to change the Audio input from hdmi to speakers.
   
   
3. Speaker wire This is how you connect the speakers to the receiver. and the best way to do that is with banana plugs
   
   
4. Bananna Plugs - Any kind will do and each banana plug hooks up to the wire differently. Some come with instructions, others you might have to google. I had to look at amazon reviews to see how mine worked.
   
   Total - about 40 - 50 depending on where you get your stuff.

Your best option is to plug directly into your receiver if it has an HDMI port. If it does but they are full, you can get an external switch to change sources, like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B46XUQU/. If neither of those options work, an audio extractor is your next option, like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BIQER0E/. This will still output HDMI video, but also send the digital audio out an optical port so you still get surround sound, though you will probably get a few milliseconds of lag, probably nothing too noticeable. In the magical event you don't even have optical, it still has stereo outputs which, for music, will be just fine.

There's a couple third party hardware pieces that are basically an array of inputs and you physically "switch" to the one you want being sent to the TV. Thankfully there aren't many that use HDMI so we avoid having to figure that out (though I'm sure there are solutions).

I think the one he uses is this: https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Switcher-Composite-Selector-Consoles/dp/B00KXVBB7C

find a space between the studs that doesn't have a firebreak. cut a hole in the drywall behind the TV, cut another hole under the wall unit. fish wires through.

https://www.amazon.com/Datacomm-50-3338-WH-KIT-Mount-Cable-Organizer/dp/B003N7NJBY/

or

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PB7UVA/

One of these little buggers that lets me switch between my speakers and headset with the press of a button.

It’s one of those outlet relocation and cable pass through things you can buy at a hardware store to run cables in the wall for a mounted TV. People who are afraid of adding an outlet will use this to safely/legally (within code) run power from the TV. You would connect an extension cord to the prongs on the wall and plug it into an outlet. AV cables pass through on the right.

Edit: like this product: Datacomm 50-3323-WH-KIT Flat Panel TV Cable Organizer Kit with Power Solution - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PB7UVA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_i0EACbK9RRKXQ


Honestly, I don’t understand why folks just don’t add an outlet up high above an existing one. It’s cheaper, cleaner, and just as easy to install as one of these things.

Totally not answering your question, but if you're sick of using an FM transmitter, but don't want to swap your radio, you can use an FM bypass/injector/modulator. Basically, it's a box that sits between your car's antenna and the radio, then overrides the signal for a specific station.

Your radio keeps working normally, but when you tune to a specific station, it'll be your phone. Since it's not actually transmitting, you don't have to fight with local radio signals.

Here's one on Amazon for $26 with decent reviews: https://www.amazon.com/iSimple-IS31-Antenna-Modulator-Aftermarket/dp/B002U5XPBE

this is what you need http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-301BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049S6ZUS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1426258307&sr=8-2&keywords=hdmi+switcher

They make hard wired fm transmitters that are for people like yourself. Goes in line with the antenna and you plug it into your phone (or bluetooth). Like this It physically cuts out the antenna and directly connects your phone with a flip of a switch. You just need two Volvo antenna adapters.

HDMI hub to the rescue! http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1374698119&sr=8-2&keywords=hdmi+hub

Amazon.CA has it for 25.99 too....If you guys missed it at EBGames

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B016XBGWAQ/

This is the one I'm using:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DRGDBTG/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Same price on Amazon if you want to avoid Steam's outrageous shipping.

Steam Link https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016XBGWAQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HOdoybG62B23J

https://www.amazon.com/Steam-Link-pc/dp/B016XBGWAQ

http://store.steampowered.com/app/353380/Steam_Link/

Streams your PC to your TV, and has ports for controllers. Just make sure you wire it to your router with an ethernet and to your TV with an HDMI for no latency issues. Also make sure your TV is set to Gaming or PC mode.

Its also $19.99 on Amazon.

$14.99 on Amazon right now.

Steam Link https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016XBGWAQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jNX-zbJWASTTA

better yet, hide the cords in the wall with a kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PB7UVA/

Stay away from your second link, I got one of those and had trouble with it. I ran my PS3 through it and it would "black out" for a second or two every few minutes. Made gaming a pain in the ass. I attributed it to the fact that it leached power from the HDMI and didn't actually have a power pack. If that was indeed the case I would be cautions of the first option as well.

I ended up replacing mine with this and it has been working flawlessly.

They're on sale right now.. $19.99 and $34.99. Free shipping on amazon. No one is going to under cut that here.

https://www.amazon.com/Steam-Link/dp/B016XBGWAQ/

DotStone HDMI Switch Bi-direction 4K HDMI Splitter 2 x 1/1 x 2 No External Power Required 2 Ports HDMI Switcher Supports Ultra HD 4K 3D 1080P for PS4 Xbox Fire Stick Roku https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8LLP2G/

I have the single running to one of my monitors, the duals run to my PS4 and PC. Then my second monitor runs straight to my PC.

Not OP but I have a bunch of these hooked up and I’ve never had any issues with them. You don’t have to pay much :/.

I have some hooked up to an hdmi audio extractor with an RCA -> AUX cable into my PC’s Microphone port, which I have set to ‘Listen To’ in Windows 10, so any audio coming from the HDMI source gets routed through my PC. $35 vs ~$150 for OPs capture card method :P. Though, if your motherboard or sound card support SPDIF input, you should use that instead (this extractor does both).

Convert the optical to analog.

https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B00KNNSKV0/

and maybe this... but a splitter would work too.

https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3/

I don't know of a way to auto turn off the soundbar when you get sound.

However; you may get AV lag/sync issues when trying to convert to analog.

Many soundbars and pretty much any recent AV receiver will have HDMI ports, so you can run audio with no TV turned on. In my situation the new CC would be able to replace my current setup where I have a CC for video and a CCA for audio only + zone 2.

In your use case, it sounds like the CC + CCA is a better choice.
You don't have more than one input to the speakers?

https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3

Also: it takes way longer to burn-in anything than I would assume you would be listening to soundcloud for a stretch. Even on an old plasma, it took many, many hours for that to happen.

Steam Link is also $19.99.

EDIT: For Amazon Prime users only. Whelp - time for that free trial.

Because it's not broadcasting if it is going via a wire connecting to your tv.

These adapters are still legally manufactured today!

You sure have a lot of self confidence in your answers for someone who has no clue what they are talking about.

RCA Compact RF Modulator (CRF907R) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014KKV7W/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_x_90u0xbTMWS8P6

Wire conduit. If you have an attic you can access running cable through the wall and up into the attic then back down the other side to rear speakers is easy enough with fish tape/poles, a drill, and a drywall saw. Use a gang ring and wall plate to cover the entry and exit holes of the wires.

With no attic you have to run the wire through the wall itself all the way to the rear speakers which is a pain in the ass because you have to drill through every stud. I definitely do not recommend that route. If all else fails with the wife forgo the rear speakers entirely and just get a REALLY nice 3.1 setup. Don't underestimate how good those can be.

please hide your tv wires!!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PB7UVA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You could do it with two adapters. You might be able to do it with one adapter if you looked around, but based on just a quick search seems like this and this would do the trick.

Hundreds? More like a couple dozen.

HDMI to composite.

https://www.amazon.com/GANA-Composite-Converter-Supports-DVD-Black/dp/B06W9LQDBB/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522695843&sr=8-3&keywords=hdmi+to+rca

Composite to RF

https://www.amazon.com/RCA-Compact-RF-Modulator-CRF907A/dp/B0014KKV7W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522696022&sr=8-3&keywords=rf+modulator

The electrical restoration most of those TVs need to run right, or often at all, is the difficult part.

Assuming you’re working with low resolution video, you should take advantage of the coax connections. Burn your video to a DVD, connect the DVD player to one of these and use coax splitters to feed to TVs. Depending on cost and availability you may want to make your own cables - one of crimped kits would be useful. You can get bulk coax cable from Home Depot it wherever.

Also check thrift stores and ask nerdy 60-year olds. My dad never throws stuff out and has a box of old stuff like this. This is very old tech and You may be able to find it for cheap.

FYI: Low voltage not required to be in conduit in Chicago. A friend of mine is an electrician in Chicago. Rest of electrical needs conduit that is true.
I have run coax cable, Ethernet, speaker wire and phone lines in my house through walls without conduit. Just make sure the wire you use is riser rated if passing from floor to floor or In-wall rated if keeping on same floor. Plenum rated if running via heavy ducts/returns. I have generally used riser rated for all my in-wall applications.
Don’t run an electrical cord from a tv or extension cord in the wall. You always use something like this: Datacomm Electronics 50-3323-WH-KIT Flat Panel TV Cable Organizer Kit with Power Solution - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PB7UVA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wGA7CbQG8K63V

I used something like this.
It might not have enough outlets for OP, but he might be able to use something like this or this at the top part.

A hdmi switch like this or this will fix that issue.

I'm using a Kinivo 301BN 3 Port switcher with my PS3 and PS4. Works fine, plus it switches to the console you turn on automatically (most of the time, anyway).

A splitter would not work in this situation. You need an active HDMI selector switch, tons of them on Amazon if you search for that. This one seems to be pretty popular: https://smile.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/

If you can wait until they have stock you can choose Amazon.com (currently the 3rd listing, the one with Prime) here, https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B016XBGWAQ/, and it will ship for $15 when they have stock.

Here is a store page link that forces Amazon.com as well https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016XBGWAQ/?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

$10 on Amazon and it doesn't need power. Can be used as a 2-1 or a 1-2 switch. It's small, made of metal, and the light is not super bright. Works with 4K signals. I use it to connect my Nintendo Switch and GPDXD+ to the X1S.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8LLP2G/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_1LB6AbYDGG4D3

Here's one for $10 with no code that actually has reviews

An HDMI input switcher is only, like, $10 extra.. e.g. http://www.amazon.com/Portta-PET0301S-HDMI-Switcher-Support/dp/B00B46XUQU

Amazon does not appear to have any Steam Links of their own in stock, at least on the US Amazon site. All Steam Links for sale are from third parties.

https://www.amazon.com/MT-VIKI-Splitter-Selector-Adapter-MT-831AV/dp/B00DRGDBTG/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1493400393&sr=8-9&keywords=av+switch

Meanwhile in Canada... Amazon.ca :(

$60 canadian on amazon

https://www.amazon.ca/Valve-Steam-Link-Windows-Linux/dp/B016XBGWAQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498239633&sr=8-1&keywords=steam+link

I was going to suggest he buy one of these and these but further down he said it's a cement wall so I would suggest some of these instead. Takes a little more time than just using Velcro ties but looks much better when finished IMO.

Edit: Also, don't EVER buy stuff from Amazon that is originally from Monoprice. $18.47 for something that Monoprice charges $8.58 for? Fuck off.

> which included adding an extra outlet behind the tv for whatever reason.

Because you can't legally run a power cord/extension cord through a wall. Can only be romex power cord.

So if you want a "clean" install you have to basically add a new outlet behind the TV.

​

They make kits like these that does the same thing https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B001PB7UVA

You could also buy a longer cord, route the cord horizontally to the door frame and the down along it and then back over to the outlet. You could also buy a kit that would allow you to do the cable through the wall. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PB7UVA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kdJ2CbBYR4D6W

If the radio doesn't have an "AUX" mode, then this really isn't possible to do. Given your car is a 2000, it's highly unlikely an AUX port was even an option.

Two solid alternatives:

1. Purchase an FM Modulator, like this or this. They're relatively easy to install, and you can probably do it yourself. It basically works like an FM Transmitter, but connects directly into your antenna port for a much cleaner signal. It can also be switched on or off, so you keep full use of your radio.
   
2. Purchase an aftermarket head unit. It's certainly cheaper to do an FM Modulator, but upgrading to a good aftermarket head unit will make you happier in the long run. Especially with a stock head unit from 2000, you're bound to start having trouble with it at some point in the near future.
   
   Hope this helps!

Fosmon HD1832 Intelligent 5x1 5-Port HDMI Switch/Switcher with IR Remote and AC Adapter Supports 3D https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008D6YZXG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XeDIxbGNHG5P9

Get a switch with remote.

Also, who buys a TV with only 1 HDMI port?

also on amazon for lazy fucks like me

https://www.amazon.ca/Valve-Steam-Link-Windows-Linux/dp/B016XBGWAQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479941810&sr=8-1&keywords=STEAM%2BLINK&th=1

Just did a quick check, and this works out to $23.67 us, which at the moment works out to about $32 Canadian shipped.

Here is the link for anyone who was interested.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016XBGWAQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Yes, i use my phone as a hotspot.

I hardwired one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/ONLINE-LED-STORE-Automotive-Extension/dp/B00PXAN1DU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1527657371&sr=8-2&keywords=hardwire+cigarette+lighter

Then i put in a 5-volt usb charger with two ports. One for the raspberry pi and the other for the firestick. Then i bought this splitter:

https://www.amazon.com/Switcher-Bi-direction-Hub-HDCP-Passthrough-Supports-DotStone/dp/B01L8LLP2G/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1527657426&sr=1-7&keywords=hdmi+splitter

All cables are hidden so it looks very clean.

Google 3.5mm ab switch. Something like this :

2 PORT 3.5mm STEREO Manual Switch Box AUX Audio Speaker selector(Wall Mount Hole Built-in, wall or table available) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073GWCRP3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ul.uCbVS1D1X7

That will let you choose what input device you want. You can probably get by with just a Y-splitter from there to your speakers.

$20 on Amazon right now

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016XBGWAQ/

Both the Steam Link ($19.99) and the Steam Controller ($34.99) are the same price on Amazon now which might be a better deal when factoring in shipping costs.
Steam Link
Steam Controller

HDMI Switcher 2 Ports Bi-direction Manual Switch 2 x 1 / 1 x 2 HDMI Hub-HDCP Passthrough-Supports Ultra HD 4K 3D 1080P By DotStone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8LLP2G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_y1c1AbH36NQMP

This will allow you to switch from tv to monitor without switching HDMI cables. I use it myself.

For everyone who is worried about their hardware...

1. Get some cable ties and take the load off the hdmi port if the cable gets yanked.
   
   
2. HDMI is not the best port if you are plugging and unplugging daily. Leave the Rift plugged in or get an HDMI Switch so you aren't putting a bunch of undue stress of your GPU.

If you need more ports, I have 2 of these. Solid build quality and work like a charm. The only annoyance is the auto-switching which can't be turned off. My Chromecast decided to randomly reboot twice now while I was playing God of War and it switched over to that input. Guess what's in my drawer now!

Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1509721642&sr=8-3&keywords=audio+switch&dpID=31Rn3KyybiL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-A1602-Splitter-Connecting-Devices/dp/B00HNCPR92/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1509721642&sr=8-7&keywords=audio+switch&dpID=519o-1mxIFL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

This looks like it should work for your needs.
Here is the Schiit product I mentioned. It might be worth looking into it to see if you can get it cheaper or something though. Monoprice might have something similar.

Splitters in the traditional sense are for taking one signal and "splitting it" to multiple TV's.

What you need is an HDMI Switch box, similar to this;

http://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD1831-3-Port-Switch-Pigtail/dp/B008GVOVK0/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1448999505&sr=1-4&keywords=hdmi+switch

edited link

It's a Sony PVM 20L2, technically I think it's a 19 inch, but the model number implies 20 inch and that's what everyone lists them as. Although it does seem a tiny bit smaller than my old 20 inch Trinitron it replaced. I'll measure them later and find out for sure.

The cables are a bit of a mess right now, going from my old CRT with SCART -> Converter Box -> Component -> CRT to this setup changed around some stuff, but once I clean everything up I planned on doing a full "Gameroom" post featuring all the shelves and stuff. I'll take a few photos of the cables as well. :)

But, basically for the RGB connected stuff (SNES, Sega, PS1 and PS2) they start with these cables from the console to the Switch:

• https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/nintendo/super-nintendo/super-nintendo-entertainment-system-famicom-snes-n64-rgb-av-scart-cable-ntsc-tv-lead-wire-cord
  
• https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/sega/mega-drive-1/sega-mega-drive-1-sega-genesis-1-stereo-rgb-av-scart-cable-tv-lead
  
• https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/sony-av-accessories/SONY-PLAYSTATION-CSYNC-COMPOSITE-SYNC-RGB-SCART-WTH-LIGHT-GUN-PORT
  
• https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/sony-av-accessories/sony-PLAYSTATION-2-rgb-scart-cables/SONY-PLAYSTATION-2-PS2-CSYNC-COMPOSITE-SYNC-RGB-SCART-WTH-LIGHT-GUN-PORT
  
  This is the SCART Selector switch I use, works like a champ. Switches automatically. I love this thing to death.
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Bandridge-Performance-Automatic-Selector-Switching/dp/B0015YYN2Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503930304&sr=8-1&keywords=SCART+switch
  
  From there, it goes out a generic (Male) SCART -> (Male) SCART (Used as an extension cable basically)
  
  Then, into this (Female) SCART -> BNC connector
  
  
• https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/sony-pvm-scart-converter-bnc
  
  Then finally, into the Sony PVM CRT.
  
  For audio, I just use a Stereo Jack -> RCA cable off the selector switch into my little cheapo 2.1 sound system (This PVMs don't have stereo sound).
  
  Everything else is running off composite right now (Yellow Red White RCA connectors), going into a RCA switch and into the Sony PVM
  
  Composite -> BNC adapters for the video signal
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L6GTXYU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  The composite switch I use.
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KXVBB7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  Audio is the same story as above, just goes from the switch into the cheapo 2.1 system directly. So I pretty much don't use the PVM's speakers.

Very nice!

As your retro system collection grows, I suggest picking up an AV RCA switcher box:


Panlong 8-Way AV Switch RCA Switcher 8 in 1 Out Composite Video L/R Audio Selector Box for DVD STB Game Consoles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KXVBB7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_EGF3Db2BSMQ8J

The Steam Link also appears to be available at that price, but it's sold out. You can still order and get it when available, though.

Same price from Amazon as well, and let's face it, who has better shipping and customer service standards?

Steam doesn't support ARM, so neither will work. You'll need something that runs x86, or a Steam Link.

Yes but you'll need some adapters.

You need to convert the display output of your mac to RCA Composite. Something like this might work: https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-DisplayPort-Thunderbolt-Composite-Converter/dp/B0196EAAF0

Then you'll need an RCA to RF modulator. https://www.amazon.com/RCA-Compact-RF-Modulator-CRF907A/dp/B0014KKV7W

After that it's just turning the TV on and tuning it to the correct channel, usually 3 or 4, and hoping the TV still works.

You can probably even put the two adapters fairly close to each other in the booth and run coax to the TV.

I have been looking at some wall mounting possibilities as well for my dot. I dont have a plug in a good place for power so I am thinking about something like this to route the cable to a power source.

Any kit like this works - pretty easy.

I wouldn't do the cassette thing... I'd get a $25 iSimple IS31 direct wired Antenna Bypass FM Modulator.

You may want to consider an FM modulator rather than a transmitter.

It's a bit more complicated to install, and it costs a few bucks more, but well worth it. The difference in sound quality between a transmitter and a modulator is very noticeable.

The FM transmitter works pretty well, but if you want something more permanent/powerful, you could try something like this, which plugs directly into your car radio's antenna jack.

Although it's a pretty generic switch, I'm pretty sure it's this. I have the exact same switch as OP in my car. This was the model I got: http://www.amazon.com/iSimple-IS31-Antenna-Modulator-Aftermarket/dp/B002U5XPBE/

You can test if this is the case by either pulling out the radio system, checking around for an AUX, or turning the radio on then turning on the switch to see if the radio cuts out or quality significantly deteriorates.

If this is the case, you can find the exact station for the AUX input by either looking on the box behind the system, or plugging your phone into the AUX, turning the switch on, then tune through all the stations.

You can get one of those in-line FM modulator-type devices. You plug it in between your antenna and stock radio and then it has an aux input on it and a switch between playing music from radio or the aux input.

Edit: Here's a decent looking one on Amazon: FM MODULATOR

Posting from mobile is difficult. Anyway. $25 and 2 hours of work later I have an aux jack with no exposed wires other than the cable itself hardwired into the radio without any crazy soldering necessary. Even has an on off switch to make things super easy. http://i.imgur.com/kHSWDAJ.jpg

This is the device I used. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002U5XPBE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1413954167&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

OP, be careful with the suggestions given by /u/JeremiS55. If you are running HDMI from the PS4 you will need a powered switch - unpowered switches tend to have trouble with the PS4's HDMI output. Here is an example.

I have a similar setup at home, here is what I do:

• PS4, PS3, and PC on HDMI switch.
  
• PC audio on a dedicated set of speakers
  
• HD monitor on the output of the switch
  
• Second (SD) screen on PC's DVI out that is always used for the PC
  
• PS3/PS4 audio through HDMI to monitor's built-in speakers
  
  This lets me hear audio from the console while also listening to music or watching movies on my PC. The audio output won't "switch" with the HDMI switch - not a cohesive, single-output solution - but it's pretty easy to turn off the PC speakers if they're not wanted.
  
  Edit: I use this switch which I bought at Best Buy after having issues with my unpowered switch. I wouldn't necessarily recommend it over other options for your needs but it suits mine just fine.

I use this:

http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411660653&sr=8-1&keywords=kinivo+hdmi

You can get it in 5 or 3 ports...I have a PS3, PS4, Xbox One, Wii U and a Roku 3 plugged into it...works well.

Good choice on an amp :). This route might be better anyway since I can't find any audio switches that has good reviews. You might go through more hassle troubleshooting with a switch than plugging/unplugging into an amp.

The only one I can find that has decent reviews

https://www.amazon.com/Speaker-Headset-Switching-Manhattan-172851/dp/B000K8PH8C

Agreed with the other comments, don't try to open it unless you really know what you're doing.
Get an RF modulator, which will take any baseband video signal and move it to VHF channel 3 or 4. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014KKV7W/?tag=synack-20
If you need HDMI, you can get an analog converter that will plug into the RF modulator.
https://www.amazon.com/GANA-Composite-Converter-Supports-DVD-Black/dp/B06W9LQDBB/?tag=synack-20

I run a RaspberryPi through an RF modulator to a very similar Samsung TV. I have a script running on the RaspberryPi that picks random video files from a directory and plays them with omxplayer. Currently, it's a 24x7 Looney Tunes and Futurama mix.

Many old TVs are "hot chassis". That means that there is no isolation from the power line. With such TVs there is effectively no ground and you can't just feed in video/audio to the appropriate points. The simple solution is to just get a modulator. Here is an example of a type that would work for the type of TV used in North America (NTSC):

http://www.amazon.com/RCA-Compact-RF-Modulator-CRF907R/dp/B0014KKV7W

If all you want to do is look at OTA TV then the digital converter is a better idea. Such converters are very common on the used market in North America.

One option is to just punch a hole in the wall, you can fancy it up with a couple wall plates. https://www.amazon.com/DataComm-45-0001-WH-1-Gang-Recessed-Voltage/dp/B00193U3O0/

You can run an USB and HDMI cable through there. If it is a long HDMI run you may need to invest in an "active" cable to avoid signal degradation.

Hide them cables! These are easy to install on internal walls. Can be found in most home improvement stores.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00193U3O0/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687642&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00379L0AU&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1J0DC3AVDDEKKEMKXV3Q

Came here to say that, cable channels are da bomb, next level up is these things if you are allowed. Easy to install, run the cables down behind the wall and out the other side, totally hidden. Really nice clean look

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PB7UVA/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075343YSZ/

Also, I totally lol'd at "speel"

Came here to say this. Something like this is super easy and it's $50. I guess 80% of the budget went to the chair. :p

OK I totally forgot about these. It hooks into your fm antennae input. Pretty easy if you can do basic mods like drilling a hole for the switch. .. I suggest running it to your aux switch slots that most trucks have. Take pics of the interior if i don't make sense

http://www.amazon.com/iSimple-IS31-Antenna-Modulator-Aftermarket/dp/B002U5XPBE/ref=sr_1_1?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1449797521&sr=8-1&keywords=Fm+bypass+aux

I don't have any experience going through someone else, as I'm more of the DIY kind of person. However, there are DIY options that don't involve cutting wires if that's your concern. This one, intercepts your antenna wire and is Plug-N-Play: http://www.amazon.com/iSimple-IS31-Antenna-Modulator-Aftermarket/dp/B002U5XPBE#

If your car has a spot for a cd changer on the back of the radio, this is a AUX to CD changer adapter that is also Plug-N-Play. Just plugs right into the back of the stock radio. http://m.ebay.com/itm/161184160443?cmd=VIDESC&gxo=true

This device already exists and you probably already have one... Don't you have an AV receiver? Just split the HDMI (using the splitter you said you already have) from the PS4 into two different inputs and then use your remote control to the select the one that you want to play-HDR or PS VR.

If you don't have an AV receiver and you don't want to spend the money on one, just get a HDMI switcher that works with a remote control follow the same steps but with the HDMI switcher instead. Kinovo some really good ones for less than $30, But there are a ton of different ones.

Specifically : PS4-> HDMI Splitter -> 1 hdmi to psvr processor and the 2nd one to either an AV reciever or something like this: Kinivo HDMI Switch 301BN Premium 3 Port Wireless Remote & AC Power Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049S6ZUS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IpBCyb6BYC3J6

Then have the psvr HdMI out also go to a seperate input on the AV Reciever or the HDMI switch.

The output from the AV Reciever or HDMI switch goes to the TV. Both the AV Reciever and the HDMI port can be controlled by a universal remote - i use a logitech harmony but you can use almost any one.

Note: The Kinovo switcher in the link does HDR i think, but you should shop around to make sure. If it doesn't then choose one that does. If you use an old AV reciever then it may not do HDR but a newer one should.

I had the same problem, try an hdmi switch, $30 on amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0049S6ZUS

Is it this one?

https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-5-Port-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=kinivo+hdmi+switch&link_code=qs&qid=1568653868&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A6909317011&rnid=6909315011&s=audio-video-accessories&sourceid=Mozilla-search&sr=1-1

It says it switches inputs automatically. Can you verify that works with turning the minis on/off?

I love the switch as well! However, I don't think anything is immune to criticism, and Nintendo has made a lot of weird decisions that are a step back IMHO.

Anyway, check this out, it may help with your HDMI situation. I will say it does get out of sync when you dock the Switch because of how the Switch "wakes up" when docked but does not necessarily send video output. If you leave it docked, you can basically switch from PS4 and Switch depending on which device is awake at the moment.

https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522417904&sr=1-3&keywords=kinivo+hdmi+switch

I've had a bunch of thr cheap hdmi switchers and they all seem to die after 9 months after having issues with specific devices not working (ps3 and wiiu) from the start. I bought this one reccomemeded in a home theater subreddit and it has taken everything I've thrown at it with no issues: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049SCB2Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I don't need to use the remote often as the auto switching is solid. I put my chromecast on my tv and roku on the switch as running more than one always on device screws with the autoswitching.

Get a Harmony anyway, they are super awesome.

Steam Controller and Steam Link price matched at Amazon. Helps defer shipping costs with Prime

Steam Controller $34.99 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016KBVBCS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Steam Link $34.99 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016XBGWAQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

The offer is still available, just check under other sellers and makes sure to order the one from Amazon.com.

So the reason this is needed is SteamVR gets confused when two headsets are plugged in at the same time...

These are the exact two bits I ordered:

https://www.amazon.com/Bi-direction-Manual-Switch-Passthrough-Supports-DotStone/dp/B01L8LLP2G/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1510945708&sr=1-3&keywords=hdmi+switcher&dpID=51NuwF1AMCL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Individual-Switches-included-HB-UMP3/dp/B00TPMEOYM/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1510945749&sr=1-5&keywords=powered+3.0+hub

But any bi-directional HDMI switch, and any powered USB 3.0 hub that lets you turn on and off connections should work.

I tried plugging my two Rift cameras into the hub but Oculus software was spitting out "Poor Communication" issues, so those have dedicated ports into the mobo (and it's OK to leave them connected while using the Vive)

This will make QA across platforms a lot easier :D

Not possible? Maybe I’m not understanding what he is asking but it sounds like he wants this.

DotStone HDMI Switch Bi-direction 4K HDMI Splitter 2 x 1/1 x 2 No External Power Required 2 Ports HDMI Switcher Supports Ultra HD 4K 3D 1080P for PS4 Xbox Fire Stick Roku https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8LLP2G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NBtNBbAWBFXCM


All you do is press the button when you want to play the other console and it will switch back and forth. No power source etc and relatively low price.

3 to 1 HDMI pigtail switch - $8, no remote, it should auto sense, but you will likely need to use the button to swap inputs. Does not require external power.

3 to 1 HDMI switch box - $18, remote control, requires external power. This one is much nicer because all the cables plug into the back, so you'll have a much cleaner set up. You can also leave it right in front of your monitor and simply push the button to switch inputs.

I purchased this HDMI switch. I use it for my Switch, PS3, and regular television. Works like a charm. The only annoyance is that instead of having a remote of sorts, there's a button on the device itself that must be pressed to switch between HDMI signals. Really just a minor thing, though.

I use the below model to connect PS4 Pro and Xbox One X to a Samsung KS8000 with no 4K/HDR problems.
Make sure the HDMI cables you’re using are rated for 18Gbps

https://www.amazon.com/Awakelion-Premium-Quality-Switcher-Support/dp/B06WV5YJ6H

I use this. But it's only 5 ports.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WV5YJ6H/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Proster-Extractor-Switcher-Converter-Include/dp/B073TTS9QG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1543214334&sr=8-3&keywords=hdmi+switch+with+audio+out

No fix, happens with the autosensing switch I use on my TV.
This one: https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD1831-3-Port-Switch-Pigtail/dp/B008GVOVK0/

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-109436-Plated-Speaker-Banana/dp/B0097JLQVC

I think those speaker stands you can do better for like 10 bucks more.
Now when it comes to AVR there is better option with really good discount like yours MSRP 300 the one bellow MSRP 550 and only like 40 bucks more with plenty of features and definitely a step up is Yamaha TSR 5810 it's only $209 and much better than that entry level receiver you picked.
Has even Atmos in and all the goodies in case you expand later.

Speaker wire is fine but for neater connection maybe add for 7 bucks banana plugs

Not a cable, a hub. He wanted to sell me a 2-port HDMI Hub with no remote for $75, instead I went to Amazon and got a 3-port with remote for less than $10. And it's worked flawlessly for 5 months.

http://www.amazon.com/Portta-PET0301S-HDMI-Switcher-Support/dp/B00B46XUQU

you would need a hdmi selector switch.

http://www.amazon.com/PORTTA-PET0301S-Switcher-Supports-Wireless/dp/B00B46XUQU/ref=sr_1_2?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1427552676&sr=1-2&keywords=hdmi+switch

So I just went through all of this myself and I can let you know what I used. After doing some research I decided on this 8 Way Composite AV Switch (MT-VIKI 8 Ports 8-In 1-Out AV RCA Splitter Selector Switch $22 - Amazon)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DRGDBTG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And I currently have 7 consoles running through it perfectly into my trinitron as you can see here: http://i.imgur.com/48CJdIn.jpg

That is one RGB cable coming from the selector (on top of CRT) into the TV and all the RGB cables from my consoles plugging into the selector. There are toggle switches on the top to choose between systems.

Currently connected: SNES, PS2, GC, Dreamcast, N64, Saturn and Genesis w/powerbase adapter and I still have room for my TG16 once I find space for it!

EDIT: I re-read through the thread linked earlier and I am using the same models they have suggested.

I used to use Y adapter (two female ends, one male) but now I just switch the RCA connectors out for the console I am using at the time.

There are products out there where you can plug a bunch in at once.
For Example

I know nothing about the above product and am not endorsing it. It's something I found in two seconds of internet searching.

Its on sale for $20 right now if anyone is interested.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016XBGWAQ/

I know it doesn't help you now but, Amazon sells the Steam Link. I can almost guarantee that your customer service experience will be better with them.

http://www.amazon.com/Steam-Link-Pc/dp/B016XBGWAQ

Your address probably wasn't even wrong, in the US, this happens to me with Fedex all the time just because they don't have time to come to my house and don't want to have to take responsibility for missing their deadline.

I can confirm this. My receiver only has four HDMI ports which is one too few for my stuff. I have PS3 and X360 hooked up to one of these and it works great. I don't even use the remote since it auto-switches. Only downside is that the LED is too bright, and that was fixed with a square of electrical tape.

Just started doing this 2 days ago and so far have won

3 steam games ($60 combined)

Lifetime dvd software license ($50)

Magnetic Chore chart ($15)

Fosmon HD1832 Intelligent 5-Port HDMI Switch ($12)

Limited Edition Naismith Memorial Basketball Hall of Fame Tie

I bought this one. It is powered which is important to some devices because they will not provide enough power through the HDMI itself. And this particular one has an ir remote so you can trigger it without getting up. (My personal favorite feature.)

You mean like an HDMI switch?


Fosmon HD1831 3-Port HDMI Switch with Pigtail Cable
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008GVOVK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-Mh1xbB2AXZBK

Yes, but it isn't recommended. An HDMI splitter like this might help:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008GVOVK0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484629946&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=hdmi+splitter&dpPl=1&dpID=41qa2cGhOXL&ref=plSrch

Hi, I actually had the exact same dilemma as you and about a month ago went for a 2.0 setup.

In the past I've tried a variety of computer speakers and nothing cut it. I never tried a soundbar, but I am super happy with my 2.0 setup.

So here is my $200 set up (big thanks to Zeos for helping me learn and pick out the parts):

$109 manufacturer refurbished Denon AVR 1513 receiver:

http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavr1513/denon-avr-1513-5.1ch-home-theater-receiver-3d-ready/1.html?_escaped_fragment_=specifications#!specifications

$80 Micca MB42x bookshelf speakers:

http://amzn.to/188rnsc

$9.43 Speaker wire:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LW0W5Y/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=YEA53M3RQ14Z&coliid=I31E8R7IOVMB4E

This is the wire stripper I bought but it is no longer available for prime so I would get a different one:

http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-2078305-Vise-Grip-5-Inch-Stripper/dp/B000JNLUQ6/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1394413512&sr=8-13&keywords=wire+stripper

Maybe get this one (but any will probably be fine):

http://www.amazon.com/Gardner-GS-40-Milwaukee-Clipper-Stripper/dp/B00004WLJX/ref=sr_1_11?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1396936022&sr=1-11&keywords=wire+stripper

Lastly, banana plugs for the wires. Optional, but nice to have ($10.96):

http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-109436-High-Quality-Copper-Speaker/dp/B0097JLQVC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1394413889&sr=8-2&keywords=banana+plug

Total: ~ $250 with tax and shipping and whatnot.

One last piece of advice:

I originally tried the popular Lepai amp and hated it. I just couldn't get the volume I wanted from it.

Here's a basic home theater accessories list and a how to video for connecting speaker wire to screw type banana plugs. You'll need 2 pairs of banana plugs per front soundstage speaker hookup (1 pair for each end.) Alternatively you can just remove a small amount of shielding from the speaker wire and twist the copper strands then insert them into their corresponding(+-) binding post or spring clip.

Subwoofer cable

[ Monoprice 16 AWG copper speaker wire 50 ft.]
(http://www.monoprice.com/mobile/product/details/2749?gclid=Cj0KEQjwpZO_BRDym6K_nMye7cEBEiQAVA7RaOXvFch7MQHt5reRutyDIcvqVn-NQg4mkLxXTsH6rDAaAu9D8P8HAQ)

Monoprice Certified Premium HDMI cables



Monoprice screw type banana plugs

connecting banana plugs video

More in depth speaker wire stripping and installing video

Subwoofer crawl technique

Should also take banana plugs if you have those type of cables instead of bare wire right into the hole.

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-109436-Plated-Speaker-Banana/dp/B0097JLQVC

Strange? You mean the speaker inputs? That's for speaker cable. Banana plugs are optional.

Trim it up if you want. I have been very pleaed with my investment in banana plugs, in your case it would only be at the speaker end. You put them on the wire then can then just plug them into the speaker.

I haven't had any issues. HDMI, being digital, would have noticeable "blocking" instead of an overall degradated signal and I haven't seen any issues.

Most devices should output enough power via HDMI to not need it; but, it does have an a/c input just in case. My ps3/fire stick/FIOS cable box all work with it without needing another power source.

I use this one, btw:

https://www.amazon.com/Portta-PET0301S-Switcher-Key-Press-Switching-support/dp/B00B46XUQU

It'll automatically default to ports based on power and placement. So, you'd plug an "always on" device like your cable box into input 1. Then, if you have your ps3 in input 2 or 3, it'll automatically switch when you turn it on.

Splitters are going to be more of like a 2 to one sort of thing and my experience are not as reliable, if you’re looking to use it for game consoles I’d definitely go with an HDMI switch box like this one and that way you can utilize auto-switching features (if you were playing your PlayStation last and then you come back later and want to play your Xbox, you can turn your Xbox on and it will automatically switch inputs). You can also get more consoles hooked up with a switchbox (most switch boxes are 3 in 1 out, I have a 4 in 2 out, some even go up to 8 in). Just a thought!

a Splitter, takes the same HDMI signal and sends it to 2 Output devices.

a Switch, Takes Multiple HDMI signals and will let you switch between them to go to 1 HDMI input.

you seem to be a little confused about what exactly you need.

Ah okay. Sorry, I thought you just wanted an on/off switch. Ignore my original suggestion. What you are looking for is just commonly known as an "HDMI Switch"/"HDMI Multiplexer"

Something like this. http://www.amazon.com/PORTTA-PET0301S-Switcher-Supports-Wireless/dp/B00B46XUQU

Do you need to do any automation with it?

Just get this guy or something similar.

Had the same exact problem. Solved for $10:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B46XUQU/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That sounds like a terrible situation. Snaking through a wall that has any turns is next to impossible without opening the wall and gaining access.

An alternate solution: You can get a three way HDMI switch. Put it at the bottom of the wall and plug the other components into it. This sort of thing. There's a bunch to shop through. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B46XUQU/ref=pd_aw_sbs_1?pi=SS115&simLd=1

>This cable functions as a signal transmitter, but NOT a signal converter.

No

You need a converter too, like this one:

http://www.amazon.com/Portta-WPETCHP-Composite-Converter-Scaler/dp/B008S7EYW2/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1417758155&sr=1-2&keywords=rca+to+hdmi+converter


Then, if you have a lot of RCA cable using consoles, and you don't want to mess with wires all the time, consider something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/MT-VIKI-Splitter-Selector-Adapter-MT-831AV/dp/B00DRGDBTG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1417758265&sr=8-4&keywords=RCA+switch+box


With these 2 items, you can connect 8 things to an HDMI ready TV with RCA cables. It's going to look like crap though :( Best to just find an old CRT monitor.

Yes there is a av cord switch that supports up to 8 consoles at a time you can order one from Amazon here. 4 consoles: https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Splitter-Composite-Switcher-Selector/dp/B075XKZ1Q4/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=av+switch&qid=1571533766&sprefix=Av+sw&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyQUZUWk5XUDEyTk9aJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDY2NjA2MjhRQ0MwNkQ5RTI2JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA3MDU4MTkzTFZGVFdYT1U2Ukk3JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfc2VhcmNoX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
8 consoles:
https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Switcher-Composite-Selector-Consoles/dp/B00KXVBB7C/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=8+av+switch&qid=1571533876&sr=8-3

Easiest way is to use a RCA switch. You will also likely need multiple power strips to be able to have all the power cables plugged in.

Taking a look, you may or may not be aware of this

You may consider a 525gb mx300 for your ssd but other than that it looks really good for what you want.

https://www.amazon.com/Steam-Link-Pc/dp/B016XBGWAQ

Here is my build list formated for reddit

Group | Name | Price | Quantity | Total | Link
--- | --- | --- | --- | --- | ---
Pc | (Everything Inside the case) | | | |
$1,601.62 | Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $347.00 | 1 | $347.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012M8LXQW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Cooler Master Hyper D92 54.8 CFM Rifle Bearing CPU Cooler | $44.80 | 1 | $44.80 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NXLYE4G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Gigabyte GA-Z170X-UD5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $171.49 | 1 | $171.49 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012N6EW6G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory | $129.99 | 1 | $129.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OTJZTZE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $97.99 | 1 | $97.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OAJ412U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Hitachi HD​S723020BLA​642 | $58.00 | 3 | $174.00 | EBay
| EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card | $459.99 | 1 | $459.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I60OGUK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| EVGA 850W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $90.39 | 1 | $90.39 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KYK1CC6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| XFX AMD Radeon HD 5450 1GB | $29.99 | 2 | $59.98 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005IUW7YE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| PWM Female to 4 x PWM Male Computer Case Fan Splitter | $6.50 | 2 | $13.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DYQRFY6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Sabrent 2.5" SSD & SATA Hard Drive to Desktop 3.5" | $12.99 | 1 | $12.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UN550AC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 80MM 5000RPM Fan | $0.00 | 2 | $0.00 |
| 92MM 5000RPM Fan | $0.00 | 4 | $0.00 |
Monitors | | | | |
$744.66 | Seiki Pro SM28UTR 28-Inch 4K UHD 3840x2160 | $195.69 | 1 | $195.69 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013XWQF28/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| AOC e2460Sd 24-Inch Widescreen LED Monitor | $142.99 | 3 | $428.97 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C99MUHQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Dell 17" 5:4 | $30.00 | 4 | $120.00 | EBay
Cables | | | | |
$137.77 | Cable Matters Gold Plated DisplayPort to DisplayPort Cable 10 Feet | $11.99 | 1 | $11.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005H3Q5E0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Cable Matters Active DisplayPort to DVI Male to Female Adapter | $19.99 | 2 | $39.98 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDT01TO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| DVI Male to Female 90 Degree Adapter Connector | $4.43 | 3 | $13.29 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008X0ZJZ0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 15ft 28AWG CL2 Dual Link DVI-D Cable - Black | $10.47 | 3 | $31.41 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020902&p_id=2760&seq=1&format=2
| 15ft Super VGA M/M | $5.69 | 4 | $22.76 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10201&cs_id=1020101&p_id=3622&seq=1&format=2
| 15ft USB 2.0 A Male to A Female Extension | $1.87 | 5 | $9.35 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=103&cp_id=10303&cs_id=1030304&p_id=5435&seq=1&format=2
| 25ft hdmi cable | $8.99 | 1 | $8.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SKVMHI4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Desk Accesseries | | | | |
$263.49 | Perixx PX-5200 Cherry MX Blue | $72.91 | 1 | $72.91 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NY45NCY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Logitech C310 Webcam | $31.93 | 1 | $31.93 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003LVZO8S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Lapel Mics | $6.50 | 1 | $6.50 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DJOIHE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| FingerPrint Reader | $12.58 | 1 | $12.58 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HHHP7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Mouse Pad | $8.99 | 1 | $8.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GB0IF50/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Headset Func HS260 | $79.99 | 1 | $79.99 | https://www.amazon.com/FUnc-FUNC-HS-260-1ST-fUnc-HS-260/dp/B00HH3H83U
| Altec ACS 54 - Speaker | $0.00 | 1 | $0.00 |
| Logitech G700S | $50.59 | 1 | $50.59 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BFOEY3Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Audio Accesseries | | | | |
$58.33 | BEHRINGER MICROAMP HA400 | $24.99 | 1 | $24.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KIPT30/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 5-Pack 6.35mm Male to 3.5mm Female Adapter | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XAQD4YA/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3.5mm Male to 2 x 3.5mm Female Splitter Cable | $3.99 | 1 | $3.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081ZBNI4/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Coupler 3.5 mm Female - 3.5 mm Female Stereo or Mono | $3.93 | 1 | $3.93 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O4N/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3 feet Slim 3.5mm Stereo Audio Cable - M/M | $2.71 | 2 | $5.42 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004G3UK5C/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3-Feet 3.5mm Stereo Male to Female Extension Cable, 5-Pack | $12.01 | 1 | $12.01 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SWOJLSS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Lighting | | | | |
$86.88 | Studio Designs Swing Arm Lamp Black | $24.75 | 2 | $49.50 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I2S7MHQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Lutron TT-300NLH-BL Credenza Lamp Dimmer Black | $14.83 | 1 | $14.83 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00024BJZE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Triple Outlet Swivel Adapter, White | $3.27 | 1 | $3.27 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HJBENG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Daylight LED Light Bulb 15W | $9.64 | 2 | $19.28 | https://www.walmart.com/ip/Great-Value-GVRLA1850ND-Great-Value-LED-15W-A19-Light-Bulb/38596922
Cable Managment | | | | |
$18.81 | 100 Velcro Ties | $5.00 | 2 | $10.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1Y5O6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 100 Releasable cable ties | $2.47 | 3 | $7.41 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=105&cp_id=10520&cs_id=1052012&p_id=5795&seq=1&format=2
| Cable Clip nais | $0.70 | 2 | $1.40 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=105&cp_id=10520&cs_id=1052006&p_id=5834&seq=1&format=2
Power | | | | |
$53.13 | Monster MP AV 750 Audio Video PowerCenter | $18.99 | 1 | $18.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004ETIKH8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| AmazonBasics 6-Outlet Surge Protector Power Strip 2-Pack | $12.99 | 1 | $12.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TP1BWMK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3 Outlet Single-Tap Wall Tap | $4.00 | 2 | $8.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007XQORTO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 15ft 16AWG Power Cord Cable | $5.20 | 1 | $5.20 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10228&cs_id=1022801&p_id=5287&seq=1&format=2
| 10ft 18AWG Right Angle Power Cord Cabl | $2.65 | 3 | $7.95 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10228&cs_id=1022809&p_id=7677&seq=1&format=2
Network | | | | |
$33.98 | TP-LINK 8-Port Gigabit Desktop Switch | $22.99 | 1 | $22.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EVGIYG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 5-Pack, Cat6 Ethernet Patch Cable in Blue 3 Feet | $10.99 | 1 | $10.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C2B81K6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Monitor Mount | | | | |
$215.27 | Arm wall mount | $17.54 | 3 | $52.62 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082821&p_id=12232&seq=1&format=2
| Top wall mount bracket | $4.80 | 4 | $19.20 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082821&p_id=3005&seq=1&format=2
| Center Monitor Mount | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082821&p_id=4564&seq=1&format=2
| 2x8 | $7.47 | 3 | $22.41 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/Top-Choice-Common-2-in-x-8-in-x-10-ft-Actual-1-5-in-x-7-25-in-x-10-ft-Lumber/4082916
| 2x4 | 2.55 | 1 | $2.55 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/Common-2-in-x-4-in-x-8-ft-Actual-1-5-in-x-3-5-in-x-8-ft-Stud/1000074211
| 3" clamp | $5.98 | 6 | $35.88 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-QUICK-GRIP-3-in-Clamp/50214643
| 4" Hinge | $2.81 | 2 | $5.62 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gatehouse-4-in-H-Oil-Rubbed-Bronze-Interior-Exterior-Mortise-Door-Hinge/4772785
| Wood Screws | $9.00 | 1 | $9.00 | Lowes
| Assorted brackets/hardware | $25.00 | 1 | $25.00 | Lowes
| Case Rack Mount | $35.00 | 1 | $35.00 | EBay
Misc | | | | |
$35.97 | Steam Link | $19.99 | 1 | $19.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016XBGWAQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Bluetooth Adapter | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | GRANDCOW Bluetooth 4.0 USB Adapter Dongle for Windows 10/ 8.1 / 8/ 7 / Vista / XP
| 19 Key Numeric Keypad | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DJSAAU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

But the steam link is new for $20...

https://www.amazon.com/Steam-Link/dp/B016XBGWAQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487809244&sr=8-1&keywords=steam+link

A Steam Link will run you $30 on Amazon.

https://smile.amazon.com/Steam-Link-Pc/dp/B016XBGWAQ/ref=smi_www_rco2_go_smi_g2609328962?_encoding=UTF8&%2AVersion%2A=1&%2Aentries%2A=0&ie=UTF8

Do you already have a nice gaming PC?

$50 - Steam Link

• Details - http://store.steampowered.com/app/353380/
  
• Amazon link for cheaper/faster shipping http://www.amazon.com/Steam-Link-Pc/dp/B016XBGWAQ
  
• Can use a wide variety of controllers and will use the power of your gaming PC. Xbox360/XBOne/PS4/WiiUPro/SteamController
  
• Wired ethernet at your PC and at the TV is recommended.
  
  --------------------------
  
  Don't already have a gaming PC?
  
  
  If act like a console, but play anything available on PC:
  
  PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
  
  Type|Item|Price
  :----|:----|:----
  CPU | Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $181.83 @ Amazon
  Motherboard | Biostar Hi-Fi B85N 3D Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard | $71.98 @ Newegg
  Memory | PNY Anarchy 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $32.99 @ Amazon
  Storage | PNY CS1211 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $59.99 @ Amazon
  Video Card | Gigabyte GeForce GTX 950 2GB Dual WindForce Video Card | $149.99 @ Amazon
  Case | Silverstone Sugo SG13B Mini ITX Tower Case | $39.99 @ Amazon
  Power Supply | EVGA 430W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply | $32.74 @ Amazon
  | Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
  | Total | $569.51

With this

Ah, right then. After a bit more thinking, the closest description I could come up with is an "audio switch". Searching for that led me to a Audio Speaker / Headset Switching Hub, Manhattan 172851.

Audio switch and audio selector seem to get the most relevant products.

See the headphone lookin jack on the back labeled Ext Antenna? It's doable but you'll need some nutty adapter spaghetti.

• one of these - not sure where to get them these days but like this
  
• one of these
  
• and an rf modulator
  
  Put tv on channel 3 or 4 VHF and done.
  
  Good chance that it's only a black and white screen btw. Sony had portable color tvs of the same size back then but lesser known brands were B&W. There would also be more than three knobs on the back if it were color, those are the bare adjustments for grey scale.

Sonny, there were plenty of ways to convert rca outputs to coax inputs. In fact, there was even a time before coax was common. An adapter like this was required to make the necessary connection.

Yup, that's possible! Ever used an RF modulator to connect something like a VCR or a classic game system like an NES? The RF modulator outputs an analog TV signal on channel 3 or 4, albeit a very weak one since it just has to go across a few feet of coax. With an appropriate amplifier and antenna you could in theory broadcast that to a TV.

>980Ti DisplayPort > DisplayPort to VGA adapter > VGA to component conversion box > RF modulator (component to coax) > coax port on TV

A/V guy here.

I think I could have saved you some trouble.

Here are the steps I would have taken:

Edit: u/Egleu pointed out that an RF modulator is still required. Sorry but I'm a stoner.

-Get an HDMI to Composite adapter like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Composite-Converter-Include-Adapter/dp/B00LK95VNQ)

-Get an RCA to BNC cable like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/SinLoon-1-8Meter-coaxial-Surveillance-Security/dp/B01M323UP7/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486089391&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=rca+to+bnc&psc=1)

-Get a Female BNC adapter to RF adapter like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Bluecell-pcs-Male-Female-Adapter/dp/B00QPN7YYQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1486089426&sr=8-6&keywords=bnc+to+rf+adapter)

-Get an RCA to RF adapter like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/RCA-Compact-RF-Modulator-CRF907R/dp/B0014KKV7W/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1486167190&sr=1-1&keywords=rf+modulator)

Plug everything in and it should work. Btw, you want to use the Yellow RCA from the HDMI to RCA adapter.

Tip: Screw the RF adapter onto the RF input on your TV first. Then all you have to do is twist the BNC part of the cable on instead of trying to twist that tiny little nut with your fingers while the cable is attached.

The picture is going to look like ass, and yes you will need something like this.

http://www.amazon.com/RCA-Compact-RF-Modulator-CRF907R/dp/B0014KKV7W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417404343&sr=8-1&keywords=rca+to+coaxial

Also it's not an adapter, it's a converter. You will get some lag no matter what, but it's probably miniscule. There is no way to get an adapter only solution. The modulation is different.

What you are looking for is an rf modulator. They used to sell them at radioshack for 35 dollars.they are way cheaper now.
http://www.amazon.com/RCA-Compact-RF-Modulator-CRF907R/dp/B0014KKV7W/ref=pd_bxgy_23_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1Q6M17MJHMRPB3NB675H

You'll need an RF Modulator. It takes RCA input and converts to Coax. You'll have to use your SD video cables for the Xbox, no HD output. If you want to connect more than one device, you'll have to look for an RCA Switcher to put into the RF Modulator.

http://www.amazon.com/RCA-Compact-RF-Modulator-CRF907R/dp/B0014KKV7W

You need a vga to composite video converter and an RF modulator. I’ve never seen them packaged in one unit.

You take the two units and daisy chain them, hooking the ‘coax out’ of the RF modulator to the TV. Then you turn the TV to channel 3 or 4.

It will look like crap. 640x480 resolution is highly optimistic, 320x240 is more realistic. Several resolutions will work but the quality of the display will make the finer details disappear.

Results will be highly dependent on the content, viewing distance and expectations. Low res photos will look ok if you stand back a bit. Text will not be legible except with large font sizes.

Good luck, here are some sample items like what you’d need.

Sewell Direct SW-22050 PC to TV Converter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002PXFJ2O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_I2HbBbWFBPHVD


RCA Compact RF Modulator (CRF907A) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014KKV7W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_c6HbBbFPPREXX

Source: was geek in the 80s

I would probably grab something like this. Yes, the pin type banana plugs are what I would recommend, but I have a speaker selector from monoproce and it didn't fit the pins, which I though was strange.

A couple of these and a dry wall saw.

DataComm 45-0001-WH 1-Gang Recessed Low Voltage Cable Plate (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00193U3O0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_8.iBwbHXK4N8N

http://www.amazon.com/DataComm-45-0001-WH-1-Gang-Recessed-Voltage/dp/B00193U3O0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381287060&sr=8-1&keywords=coax+wall+plate+recessed

check this variation out, just throwin out ideas

Assuming it's mounted to an inside wall, it's probably not insulated, meaning it's extremely easy to feed the wires inside the wall.

Using a keyhole saw, cut a small hole behind the monitor. I suggest using a stud finder with A/C detection to make sure you're not cutting into a stud or wires. Then cut another hole somewhere directly below that hole and just run the wires in one and out the other. It's super easy. You can get nice bezels to make the holes look pretty too:

keyhole saw

stud finder

bezel

Another use posted this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PB7UVA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xyQHybSRV0P6H

I haven't looked to see if it is in accordance with the national electric code, but if it is, it would make the job a lot easier

If the cables were longer I would do this.
https://www.amazon.com/Datacomm-50-3323-WH-KIT-Panel-Organizer-Solution/dp/B001PB7UVA/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1522771598&sr=8-8&keywords=wall+cable

We gotta do something about those cables. Check this out. Nice setup otherwise!
https://smile.amazon.com/Datacomm-50-3323-WH-KIT-Panel-Organizer-Solution/dp/B001PB7UVA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1518206910&sr=8-4

I used this and it was a breeze.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PB7UVA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is what I use... keeps within code and all that too.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PB7UVA/

There are aux inputs that you physically plug between the radio and the FM antenna. Like this:

https://www.amazon.com/iSimple-IS31-Antenna-Modulator-Aftermarket/dp/B002U5XPBE

avoid transmitters.

Get a modulator

I had one very similar to this in my SVT Focus, worked awesome. It puts in line with your radio's antenna and uses a modulator frequency that will interrupt radio signal (for the one linked 87.9 or 88.3), and will play audio from a AUX or 3.5MM audio cable.

The sound quality is identical to a perfectly clear FM channel, and will never give you anything different, FM transmitters are the devil, they constantly change in signal quality just because of how low power their broadcast is.

A little quick research shows these things.

1. Adding AUX to the factory JBL unit requires soldering onto the main circuit board of the radio after disassembly. No professional installer is going to do that. Period.
   
2. You can use an inline AUX/antenna adapter. They're $25 most places. It still uses the FM transmitter model, but it fits inline between the antenna and the head unit. The inline models interrupt the signal from the external antenna and provide a much cleaner sound. iSimple IS31 is an example. Removal of your head unit is an easy job for any installer, and fitting that thing in there is pretty easy. Most installers will begrudgingly do this for you, probably cost you $100 in labor plus parts. They'll be more likely to want to do this step if you're buying speakers at the same time.
   
3. Research your car at Crutchfield. Find the parts you want to fit your budget. Then make the next decision:
   
   1. Buy from Crutchfield and install it yourself. A reasonably handy friend can help. Your car is stupid easy to work on. Doesn't take many tools. You might be averse to installing it yourself, but if you're talking about buying shit on eBay you're obviously on a budget. Consider it again.
      
   2. Use the research to set your budget. Take your new knowledge to a reputable shop. Most places I've been will have nearly identical pricing to Crutchfield for parts and will of course charge you time and materials to do the installation. Expect $75-$85 per hour for the install. Some shops have a standard like $100 for basic installation of a head unit and a per-door speaker cost. They'll do a nice job, but you'll pay for it.
      
      Speakers...
      
      

• Your car has tweeters in the dash, one in each door, and the sub in the rear deck.
  
  • There are no tweeters (dash) that I've found that will fit without modification. You'll either have to buy eBay/junkyard replacements or go surface mount. Or find somebody willing to do the modifications.
    
  • Front and rear door speakers are easy and are as cheap as $40/pair. Probably cheaper if you're in Walmart mode.
    
  • Subwoofer (center of rear deck) is also easy. Probably $70+ for a nice one, less for something that'll work.
    
    That "thing under the passenger seat" is the factory JBL amplifier. There are kits now that will either bypass that factory amp or interface with it, depending on what you want. If you bypass it, your factory subwoofer goes away. Again, Crutchfield research.
    
    Shout out to Real Time Audio & Accessories for their work. They're a touch north of Gwinnett, but close enough and not far off of I-985 at Spout Springs.
    
    ​
    
    Have fun with it and good luck.
    
    ​

/u/Doug-demuro you need an fm transmitter that connects between your head unit and antenna plug and is powered. You can plug into he transmitted via aux or use a Bluetooth adapter. I get 0 interference.

I use this one and have 0 complaints other than the slightly more tedious initial install. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002U5XPBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yfPuzb0M9NP1A

My truck is a 2004.i got one of these for it. Works great.

iSimple IS31 Antenna Bypass FM Modulator for Factory or Aftermarket Car Radios https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002U5XPBE/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_71FAwb3SGXGJA

If you don't want to replace your radio, but really want an aux cord - this is the best choice. It plugs into your antenna and won't get bleed through unless you're under the station.

I used to own a 98 Civic EX with one of these. The audio quality was significantly better than an FM transmitter and I think it cost me $70 total (including professional installation) at a local car stereo place.

Put one of these on my Chrysler, and I'm 70 yo

This is the best one you can get and works the best.

You need to have a HDMI Switch with a dedicated power supply, otherwise it wont run the signal for the PS4. Trust me, I had some trial and error till I found this one.

Depends on how involved you want to get. Here it's all a matter of aesthetics, and if you want it to look good, you've gotta do the work. Fortunately, I did it for the first time myself, and it looks good and is worth it.

1. Take the TV off the mount. Go into the attic and assess the area directly above the fireplace. Should be easy to find based on the chimney, but if not (and there aren't any wires or duct work above it), drill a small hole in your ceiling right in the center of the fireplace, and poke a straightened wire coat hanger into it. This will penetrate the insulation and give you a good point of reference.
   
   
2. Buy and install a combo recessed plug and cable plate. If there's not much room behind the drywall, you can get shallower versions.
   
   
3. Run electrical power (12/2 Romex is sufficient for a flat screen) and a single long HDMI cable to your box. Wiring sounds difficult, but with a fish tape and a paddle bit, it's actually not that bad. DIY Network has a writeup here. If you're unsure of local code, or don't want to mess with electricity, you could run the power cable to the box, and then have a local electrician tap into an existing line with capacity (this should be much cheaper than having them do the whole job).
   
   
4. Run the other end of the HDMI cable to wherever you want your source boxes to be. Ours are in our coat closet. Use either an A/V switching receiver or an HDMI switch to control the source. Yes, modern TV's have multiple HDMI ports on the back, but for a clean and easy installation, doing 1 cable to the TV, and then switching at the sources is a much better solution than running a new cable through the attic for each device.
   
   Good luck.

I miss read your post a little. Just a simple video switch is what you're looking for. Something like this link should work. If you don't use HDMI get adapters, the VGA and DVI switches out there are old and outdated for current resolutions. I've owned this particular brand before, I had the 5 port version.

I've had good results with Kinivo HDMI switches and Harmony remotes. I haven't used the UHD ones, but the FHD ones work great.

Kinivo FHD HDMI switches

Kinivo 301BN (3x1)

Kinivo 501BN (5x1)

Kinivo UHD HDMI switches

Kinivo K300 (3x1)

Kinivo K500 (5x1)

Well If I had 15 conference rooms I would probably do something a little more "official". Look into the wide world of Crestron and Extron products. If its on a conference table I would look at something like the Fliptop tied into an HDMI switch/scaler for your different digital and analog formats with a single HDMI running back to the screen. Of course you can always start going over the top by tying in audio and lighting but its all about $$$.

Or if you like quick and dirty, ScottRaymond has the right solution except put all the clutter under the table and get an auto sensing HDMI switch like this one

Source: A/V at a conference center is one of my hats

I use:http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393787526&sr=8-1&keywords=kinovo+hdmi+switch

I have my XB1, PS4, Apple TV, Directv HDDDVR all plugged in. It always displays the most recent device I turned on.

Here is one with 5 HDMI ports
https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y

but yeah an AV Receiver is probably the best bang for buck since you can plug in mostly everything into one device.

Do you mean splitter (view your PS4 on multiple screens) or switcher (switch between your PS4 and other HDMI devices connected to one screen)?

I'm just not sure why many people would need a three-way HDMI splitter for their PS4....

If you're looking for a switcher, I've been using this one for almost 5 years. If you want something under $20, this one seems to have good reviews.

Got this guy set up just recently; pretty happy with it for the consoles I have hooked up.

Kinivo 4K 30hz + 1080p 60hz for 3,299₹ (proper seller, with warranty, Appario Retail) - Amazon link

Kinivo 4K 60hz for 6,289₹ (not an official seller, no guarantee or warranty) - Amazon link

I use this one. Switches automatically as well as with the included remote. Had it about a year, works great.

Kinivo 501BN Premium 5 port High speed HDMI switch with IR wireless remote and AC Power adapter - supports 3D, 1080p https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_xQTfvb00CX835

I splurged and got a little pricier one: http://amzn.com/B0049SCB2Y

I was going to get a cheap 3 input one, but the 3 input from this brand wasn't much more. And then once I had that it wasn't much more for the 5 input. I too had three devices and one input, so I decided to get the 5 input switcher in case I added a device in the future. Now I'm glad I did since I'll be adding a chrome cast.

I've only had it for a few weeks so I can't give you a long term review, but so far it's worked great. I just have my Wii U and PS3 plugged into it right now and it automatically switches between the two. I don't think it will work with a Roku though, because the always on screensaver thing will make the switcher think it's always playing something. It comes with a remote control to switch manually. My TV has 3 inputs so I'll be putting the chromecast in one, Roku in one, and the switcher in the other for all my gaming systems and cable box.

I just wanted to post these two links...

eBay with Free shipping($25): http://www.ebay.com/itm/112036760697
Amazon Used ($33.45): https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/ol/B016XBGWAQ/ref=mw_dp_olp?ie=UTF8&condition=all

It's also still available at Amazon.

For those that work from home with their work laptop: an HDMI switcher.

Use it to switch your monitors source from your desktop or your docking station!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8LLP2G/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I2LBLDC00EGRRD&colid=DBA5F9ZE9GQU&psc=0

You mean a bidirectional hdmi switch?

https://www.amazon.com/Bi-direction-Manual-Switch-Passthrough-Supports-DotStone/dp/B01L8LLP2G

• Will it work? Yes
  
• Have it used one? No
  
• How do I know it will work? I read the product description and plan to use the same switch to hook us a NES and SNES to one monitor
  
• What if it doesnt work? Return it
  
• But...I spent $X.xx what if it does not work? Again, return it and stop asking the same questions. Laziness isn't an excuse and judging by your experience with analog signals I'll wager your old enough to help yourself. Time and effort spent finding a solution is part of the experience! Yes someone else may have done this already, or you could be the first! Take a possible solution and come back to this community with the answer.
  
  Edit: Given you have the disposable income to purchase a snes classic and free time to play said games.... You have enough money for a hdmi splitter and enough time (if you get a factory defect/ D.O.A product) to return it for a functioning one. Cheers
  

I have a 40" 4K on one wall and Next to it a desk with monitor.

Use this for easy switching

DotStone HDMI Switch Bi-Direction 4K HDMI Splitter 2 x 1/1 x 2 No External Power Required 2 Ports HDMI Switcher Supports Ultra HD 4K 3D 1080P for PS4 Xbox Fire Stick Roku https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8LLP2G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uDc5CbQNH8XDN

/u/Gogo229 - For live events, I'd recommend a real camcorder like the [$1799 JVC HM200] (https://www.amazon.com/JVC-GY-HM200U-Professional-Camcorder-Handle/dp/B00V7LZTYI//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20).

This camera will cost you several hundred dollars less than a GH5 and give you built-in SDI out, which you can plug straight into the SDI input of a [$551 Blackmagic Web Presenter] (https://www.amazon.com/Blackmagic-Design-Presenter-Teranex-Pearstone/dp/B06X3W3HQS//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) without an adapter.

With an [inexpensive 2 input switch] (https://www.amazon.com/Bi-direction-Manual-Switch-Passthrough-Supports-DotStone/dp/B01L8LLP2G//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) for the Web Presenter's HDMI input, you'll have a slick 3 camera setup you can send straight to your laptop without spending $1000 for the Roland.

[Here] (https://youtu.be/LgLz5ba1aTE) is a nice summary of what the Web Presenter can do.

And here are a few examples of the image quality the HM200 (and its lower-end twin, the HM170) can produce:

Outdoors

• [A Fishing Story with Ronnie Green and Jen 4k by sam root] (https://vimeo.com/178128763) (2 camera show with a couple of color grading examples) (4k)
  
  
• [JVC GY-HM170 (4K) by Ferenc Kereszturi] (https://youtu.be/dgKV1rwyoc4) (2160p)
  
  Indoors (Non-studio)
  
  
• [JVC GY-HM170/JVC GY-HM200 - 2016 World of Wheels - Chicago by illdaddyrod] (https://youtu.be/fvm9UYQg8Bo) (1080p)
  
  
• [4K basketball by JVC GY-HM170/GY-HM200 test video in typical dark gym - Pinewood Girls Basketball 2016, by Rich Altmaier] (https://youtu.be/IDmpxSKo_Pw) (shot in a dimly lit basketball gym at -21dB - 2160p)
  
  Slow Motion
  
  
• [Paintball: 2016 January 31st practice @ Blitz Paintball Colorado Mile High Island] (https://youtu.be/BP95O4bn8os) (shot with JVC HM170 and DJI Osmo at 1080/120p)
  
  
• [Ian Howes - Broome Tioga MX (KTM 250 XC) | JVC HM170 Test Footage by Adamgmx24] (https://youtu.be/Zb3gPnjLjbM)
  
  
• [GY-HM200/HM170 1920x1080 120p footage by JVCProfessional] (https://youtu.be/5GxHLvXSFS0)
  
  For shooting live events, a real video camera will make your life a lot easier than shooting with a still/video compromise camera. If you want the large sensor, shallow depth of field "look" for some shots, you can shoot them with your G7.
  
  And if you ever want to do a single camera livestream, you can leave the Web Presenter at home and stream straight to the web from the HM200, which has a built-in IP encoder for live streaming from anywhere there's a hotspot with a [$7.99 wi-fi dongle] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20).
  
  [Here] (https://youtu.be/lzF0XRSM4_w) is how streaming works with the [$2295 sports version] (http://adorama.evyy.net/c/60286/51926/1036?u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.adorama.com%2Fjvgyhm200sp.html) of this camcorder (yours would be exactly the same, but without the scoreboard graphic overlays).
  
  [Here] (https://youtu.be/Y3oYNy47yYo) is the JVC promo video on this feature, using USTREAM as the example streaming platform.
  
  Hope this is helpful and good luck with finding the right camera for your needs!
  
  
  
  

Make sure the game supports vga of course. I use the following:


HDMI Switcher 2 Ports... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8LLP2G?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


Tensun 3RCA AV CVBS Composite &... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019T0WFA4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


OREI XD-600 VGA PC/Laptop to HDMI Video Converter -Upscaler Up to 720P/1080P Converter with Audio Jack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IUJJHAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TgsPDbNJCDAPV

Then finally I use the 8bit retro VGA box.

This is not the most efficient setup or the cheapest but it lets me switch easily from vga to s-video for the titles that prefer it and ensures the audio works. I recently purchased a DCHDMI but haven’t had it installed.

https://www.amazon.com/Switcher-Bi-direction-Hub-HDCP-Passthrough-Supports-DotStone/dp/B01L8LLP2G/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526243885&sr=1-4&keywords=hdmi+switcher

It is this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01L8LLP2G/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Switch-GANA-Splitter-Pigtail-Supports/dp/B06VX1PKQ7/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1524961779&sr=1-3&keywords=hdmi+switcher

Would something like this work? https://www.amazon.com/Switch-GANA-Splitter-Pigtail-Supports/dp/B06VX1PKQ7/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1519836368&sr=8-3&keywords=hdmi+port+extender&dpID=51lwkqsTIfL&preST=_SY300QL70&dpSrc=srch

That will only duplicate the display. What you're looking for is an HDMI input switch box.

Like this.

https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Switch-GANA-Splitter-Supports/dp/B06VX1PKQ7

Kvm stands for Keyboard, Video, Mouse and it would do exactly what you're looking for. However it is somewhat pricy.

If you don't mind pressing 3 buttons you could buy an HDMI merger, and have that feed into a splitter, and have a USB splitter.

Basically you'd need these: (Merger) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VX1PKQ7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pPfXzbWDY8YB9

(Splitter) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HXFARS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tQfXzbWGDZ84V

(USB Switch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JX3Q28Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jTfXzbJRTASXT

And about 4 HDMI cables.

All in all it should cost you about $100. It's ghetto and would look silly but it will work.

Just buy this. I have two and they work fine. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VX1PKQ7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bY7SCbAM1RT5K

A switch is definitely your best option in this situation. Try this one out, I saw it posted on another sub with a similar situation. Hope that helps you out.

Please don’t get this item. “This does not support HDR, HDCP 2.2, HDMI 2.0”

Which means no Netflix, HDR if you have an S or X and no 4K if you choose to upgrade down the road.

This one has room for more devices, 4K support if you upgrade your devices and HDCP 2.2 which will let you watch Blu-ray Discs and Netflix (from Xbox): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WV5YJ6H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OnG6Ab1PFPFC1

Which models have you tried? I am getting this one today

I bought a 5x1 4K switch just for this purpose and it's been great. That way I have a single input to my 4K tv, but can switch between the sources with the remote that comes with the switch.

This is the one I got:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WV5YJ6H

Make sure you get good high-speed HDMI cables for each connection, too:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCGKI3O

​

It might work, but I wouldn't chance it. Generally it's not a good idea to short two output sources together which is what that splitter would do. (The output of a device is low impedance so it "looks like" a short circuit when connected to a different output source.)

What you should use is a switch box that lets you connect one device at a time to the speaker (while disconnecting the other.)

Here's one.

2 to 1 3.5mm switch or a 4 to 1 3.5mm switch or a 2 to 1 mixer if you want to listen to 2 at the same time.

What is the price on the Harmon Kardon SoundSticks III?

Many other powered speakers have more than one input. Edifier 1280DBs have 2 inputs plus bluetooth.

Or a stereo or av receiver with bookshelf speakers if you have the room has many inputs.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_5


But why you have only one slot? Might as well just get USB sound card for the same price, better investment.

I use one of these to use my switch, snes mini, and pc at my desk. Works pretty well.

Something like this HDMI audio extractor will solve your audio problem. Or you can get an all in one solution

Personally I run a Retrotink 2X and love the thing. As far as I know Mike Chi (The make of the 2X) is the maker of the RAD2X as well. So That's probably the best option (in the price range obviously).

You can buy HDMI audio extractors to get your line level out back. This way you can run audio however you want after the HDMI process. However, in your situation, it might just pay to go the 2X route and then never feed your audio into the unit and route it elsewhere.

I used to have this one and it worked for a Roku and cable box.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B073TTS9QG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You could buy an HDMI switch.

I found one by doing a quick search: https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Switch-4K-Splitter-Bi-Directional/dp/B079JQ9XXV/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=hdmi+splitter&qid=1569144396&s=gateway&sr=8-3#immersive-view_1569144448483

This one accepts two inputs and allows you to output to a single display, and you can switch between the input sources.

A lot cheaper than a new TV

HDMI Switch 4K HDMI Splitter-Techole Aluminum Bi-Directional HDMI Switcher 2 Input 1 Output, HDMI Switch Splitter 2 x 1/1 x 2. No External Power Required, Supports 4K 3D HD 1080P for Xbox PS4 Roku HDTV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JQ9XXV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8kiZDbMGSTKT1

You need an HDMI splitter like this: https://smile.amazon.com/HDMI-Switch-4K-Splitter-Bi-Directional/dp/B079JQ9XXV/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1GXEWZW5WU4M8&keywords=hdmi+splitter&qid=1573659955&sprefix=hdmi+split%2Caps%2C165&sr=8-3

​

That is a simple one, if you are worried about HDR going through the splitter, you may need to look for a splitter that supports HDR.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B016XBGWAQ/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new

>https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B016XBGWAQ/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new

Awesome, thanks!

Steam link is available from amazon for $15 with prime shipping. Its back ordered though.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B016XBGWAQ/ref=sr_1_1_olp?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1498292376&sr=1-1&keywords=steam+link

I think it's still available from Amazon for $14.99

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B016XBGWAQ

Does this work? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/ol/B016XBGWAQ/ref=mw_dp_olp?ie=UTF8&condition=all

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B016XBGWAQ?ref_=mp_s_a_1_1&qid=1504198634&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=steam%20link&pldnSite=1

This link should be non-affiliated.

It looks like what you have there will do what you intend without switching. Simply turn the device on that you want to use, or have both.

If you wanted to toggle, this looks like it will do what you want. It can combine or split depending on how you connect to it - two monitors on the dual end and one pc on the single end makes it a splitter.

EDIT:
You might also consider an HDMI switch. which will allow you to just click a button and switch between PC input and PS3 input. Most of these (Unless expensive) don't include any alternative audio option, just HDMI <-> HDMI

.....

EDIT 2:
If you JUST want to record the video on your PC, and don't want to display it live, any capture card will do, whether internal or external, and is just about the only way to go - very, very few video cards have bidirectional HDMI ports, so you likely only have output on your PC

.....

The linked item (The Easycap) is along the right lines, but not quite there. The PS3 will not allow dual video output in this manner. it only supports one output, and you can only switch between the two, not have both.

The better way is to stick with HDMI, but install a video capture card with HDMI passthrough in your computer. Plug PS3 HDMI into the capture card, and plug the cards output to your monitor. I know they can be expensive, but it's the proper way in this case. The one I linked is relatively nice, there are probably cheaper options with passthrough capability - I just don't feel like searching through results for the best bang/buck ratio.

This should also allow you to use the capture card's audio output (3.5mm on this card) to connect to your speakers for sound that's pulled from the HDMI - meaning you can forgo the component cable entirely.

Without passthrough it'd still be possible, but you'd basically have to stream the video to yourself- meaning there's likely to be some video lag compared to passthrough or direct connection. The one you linked would require this kind of setup, which is not ideal.

I have this one, works fine for my Switch.

HDMI Switcher 2 Ports Bi-direction Manual Switch 2 x 1 / 1 x 2 HDMI Hub-HDCP Passthrough-Supports Ultra HD 4K 3D 1080P By DotStone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8LLP2G?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

HDMI Switcher 2 Ports Bi-direction Manual Switch 2 x 1 / 1 x 2 HDMI Hub-HDCP Passthrough-Supports Ultra HD 4K 3D 1080P By DotStone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8LLP2G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_j56VM8gFbzbdx

Works like a charm, i have my one s and ps4 pro hooked up to this thing.

I think what you actually need is an HDMI switch

Something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8LLP2G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZDHXCbQ9EA82H

You want an HDMI switch. Something like this. You'd also want an HDMI to DP adapter, or cable.

That way, PC to Yiynova via VGA, and PC to Dell and Switch to Dell via HDMI is possible.

This one is pretty cheap

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01L8LLP2G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L8LLP2G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1#customerReviews

I use this one and it works great. I havent tried HDR, but according to the reviews HDR seems to work fine

A splitter will work. I have this one coming from my receiver to my KS8000 on one side and a monitor on the other. Both look great.

Here you go!

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01L8LLP2G/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505820254&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=HDMI+Switcher+2+Ports+Bi-direction+Manual+Switch+2+x+1+%2F+1+x+2+HDMI+Hub-HDCP+Passthrough-Supports+Ultra+HD+4K+3D+1080P+By+DotStone&dpPl=1&dpID=51zcAC0JEoL&ref=plSrch

be better off buying an hdmi switch
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VX1PKQ7/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_eyHjDbGGMF67Y

Okay, I would suggest an HDMI splitter. I do this same thing, I have an Xbox, and my PC running on the same monitor, sometimes I’ll even hook my laptop up to the monitor if I have something on it that I need to access that isn’t on my PC, the HDMI splitter is exactly what it sounds like, it’s a single output, multiple input splitter that, with the press of a button, changes the input routing to another HDMI, I use this for switching between Xbox and pc without having to unplug cables, and it sounds like it would work well for you also. They’re about $10-$15 on Amazon


edit: here’s a link to a nice little $10 splitter!

This is the simplest, most-reviewed one on amazon

10 bucks, and you don't have to get another cord. I'd try this one.

The maximum refresh rate of VGA is 60Hz at 1080p, besides its an obsolete analogue connector. There's no point in using it with a flat panel display. You'd be much better of using an HDMI switcher like this, you'll get a sharper, cleaner picture with less lag.

Sorry, no. It doesn't work that way. This switch is $11. If you don't have prime I'm sure a friend or coworker will buy it for you and you can give them the cash.

HDMI Switch,GANA 3 Port 4K HDMI Switch 3x1 Switch Splitter with Pigtail Cable Supports Full HD 4K 1080P 3D Player https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VX1PKQ7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WZbJBbM3VC2C6


I’ve used a splitter/switch before without issues.

Just to offer a second option, I have this one. I owned the previous 4K30hz version and upgraded to this 4K60hz version when it came out. Never had a problem with it.

https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-Switch-Wireless-Speed-18Gbps-Auto-Switching/dp/B07CRSJLJ2

At the very least I would say you want to completely avoid any HDMI switches that don't have a dedicated power source. This one below is an example. It relies on the connected devices to provide power over HDMI which can lead to inconsistent performance.

https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Switch-GANA-Splitter-Supports/dp/B06VX1PKQ7

You don't need a full KVM switch, just a basic HDMI one.

This is the one I got to switch between my Switch, hacked PS3, and any other random device I want to plug into my monitor. Works great. It's especially nice since it autoswitches to the first device that tries to output something; so if I was using my Switch, put it to sleep, and turn on my PS3, it switches without me having to press the button or anything.

This one is the one I ha e and for the price it works great! The 4K on it works great as well! I have Nintendo Switch, my cable box, and my Xbox one s hooked up to it no issues at all!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074Z6Z2NY/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQ0K1NH/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WV5YJ6H/

According to user reviews they all support HDR and 2160p60 4:4:4

If you want a brand name you can get

Ligawo 3090063 HDMI Switch

Sewell SwitchDeck, 4K HDMI 2.0 Switch

I own the Ligawo 5x1 myself.

Get a switch that has four or five HDMI inputs. Run everything through that. The trick, I suppose, is finding one that supports HDR across all of the inputs. Here's one for $50. There are undoubtedly lots of others, but this is the first I spotted that definitely has HDR support.

If the switch supports HDMI-CEC it will automatically switch to whatever the active device input is. The one I lined above doesn't specify HDMI-CEC, but it talks about "intelligent switching" that sounds like it either is HDMI-CEC or something equivalent.

Alternately, is a receiver and surround sound system an option? Even 5.1 will enhance your videogame and movie watching experience exponentially. It's obviously more expensive to implement but it can be phased in over time - get a used receiver and a couple of speakers, start with a 2.0 setup and add speakers as your budget allows.

I bought this one a while ago and have been happy with it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WV5YJ6H/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Is there any reason you have a chromecast connected to your computer monitor, when whatever it is you're chromecasting can easily be played on your computer? It sounds like what you're really looking for is a small audio receiver (or a switchbox, also you'll need line out from your monitor, not line in. Some receivers have a headphone jack, otherwise just connect your headphones to the headphone port on your case when you're looking to use it.

Something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073GWCRP3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_080xDbF1SXZN3

A cheaper alternative to the Belkin:

https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3

Here's the top 100 digital-to-analog converters...about a zillion to pick from :)

https://www.amazon.com/Best-Sellers-Electronics-Converters/zgbs/electronics/3224445011

Easiest cheapest simplest option is a 3.5mm splitter.

If you want to get fancy, you could get a 3.5mm switch box/selector with as many inputs as you'd like. Example 1 example 2

A switch box designed for rca would work as well, you'd just need an adapter cable from rca to 3.5mm, they're super cheap on Monoprice.

Do you have any other inputs connected? If so, this could be a possible solution - https://www.amazon.co.uk/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3

A search of "3.5 mm jack switch" brought up this in 0.94 seconds. Couple that with a couple 3.5 mm audio cables to join the sources with the switch and you're done.

You'd have to buy something like this to do that.

I have used this for a Play 5 and it works great. Doesn't need to be powered or anything

2 PORT 3.5mm STEREO Manual Switch Box AUX Audio Speaker selector(Wall Mount Hole Built-in, wall or table available) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073GWCRP3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jV17BbNR88KFQ

You'll want a switch, something like this.

This is all you need: https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3/. There are fancier options for a few dollars more as well.

I know Zaxcom specializes in this type of gear, however it’s EXPENSIVE.

Maybe a low tech solution like this might do the trick...though I imagine you won’t be able to take into the walkie but at least you could listen in


2 Port 3.5mm Stereo Manual Switch Box AUX Audio Speaker selector(Wall Mount Hole Built-in, Wall or Table Available) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B073GWCRP3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_m0MLDbRMZVAQA

https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3


have you looked at audio input switchers? have 2-4+ inputs all going into 1 box that you can then send a single output to your receiver.

I went with Polk Audio setup. T15 bookshelf speakers, PSW10 sub (thing is a beast), throw in a Lepy LP-2020A-3A amplifier, and a AUX switch to go back and forth between the speakers and headphones and BAM that is the audio setup.

In the spirit of this sub, there is a circuit diagram included in that article that shows how to build a summing box :-)

I've never used one myself so I really can't speak to how cheap you can go without it being trash.

That being said, it's a super simple device so this will probably work fine: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073GWCRP3/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Good eye. Yes, that's a Cambridge surround system w/woofer I've had for years. It's perfect.

The white remotes are for Phillips Hue bulb sets. One is for the ceiling lights and the other for the light strip behind the desk.

The silver box is an audio splitter I use to select from two sound sources to feed to the Cambridge system: PC sound, or my Sonos system sound, using a Sonos Connect.

Wrist pad.

https://www.amazon.com/Proster-Extractor-Switcher-Converter-Include/dp/B073TTS9QG/ref=sr_1_4?crid=FJH0XGCKGJCC&keywords=hdmi+audio+extractor&qid=1564440505&s=gateway&sprefix=hdmi+audio%2Caps%2C180&sr=8-4

​

This should do you fine and would allow you to hook up multiple devices to your monitor. It's pretty future proof for your set up.

Looks like this is a common Epson problem. Maybe this is a good solution? Though I would still need to either run a cable from the switcher to my receiver or figure out a Bluetooth connection...

What you want is an "audio extractor". Since you have two HDMI devices and you need to switch back and forth, you also need a HDMI switch.

Luckily, there are switches with extractors built in, so you can kill both birds with one stone.

Two options I can think of...

If your TV or monitor has a headphone out, grab a 3.5mm cable and run it from the screen to your speakers. Added bonus is that the speakers will then work for whatever you have connected to the screen, not just the Xbox.

Alternatively, you'll need to use a converter.

I have a HDMI switch that has a 3.5mm out, which can be used with a pair of speakers much like the ones you have (https://www.amazon.com/Proster-Extractor-Switcher-Converter-Include/dp/B073TTS9QG). They're relatively inexpensive, and don't degrade the sound quality.

But ultimately, whether you go with the screen headphone out, the HDMI converter or the controller, each of these three methods is effectively converting the signal somewhere down the line.

Ello! I have recently purchased an Elgato and I had the same issue as you. I run the Elgato's Out HDMI through one of these and mute my monitor. So far it works great and my sound doesn't seem any worse than it did on my computer. (on board sound if you have a sound card quality may vary :) )

Hope this helps!

Lmao $30 for an hdmi bidirectional splitter?! It's under 10 on [Amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JQ9XXV/)

Get extra cables and connect the monitors via switchers. They exist for HDMI, DVI, and DisplayPort, in ascending order of over-priced-ness.

Alternatively, if you have enough cables and your monitors allow multiple inputs, you can have everything plugged in all the time and use the monitor's source selection menu.

Not ideal, but you could consider one of these: https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Switch-4K-Splitter-Bi-Directional/dp/B079JQ9XXV

Maybe I am missing some point, but why dont you just buy something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JQ9XXV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HjgNDb7FPX9BW ? It is only $10 and I really doubt you can make it any cheaper, not even considering the time investment.

/u/_Asthenos

Actually there are some ways you can do this. A KVM would be best (not sure how you can afford an alienware tower and a macbook pro, but not a simple peripheral device...)

These are just examples of the device types im talking about, i have not used these and will not suggest using them. Do your own research before buying stuff:


https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Selector-Computers-Peripheral-Switcher/dp/B01N6GD9JO


and


https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Switch-4K-Splitter-Bi-Directional/dp/B079JQ9XXV/

4K HDMI SWITCHER

​

This should work fine and you do not need any extra power, i have a similar one for non-4K

You could just buy an hdmi switch.. they are not expensive.

Here is a powered one on amazon for $15

I purchased this one a while back. It's works really well for what I need it to do. It has my PS4, Wii U, and a Firestick attached to it.

I bought mine from Amazon.ca, but it is very similar to this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008D6YZXG/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1483713385&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=hdmi+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=51lrSjiGLsL&ref=plSrch

Keep an eye on the supported resolution, 1080p vs 4k, and for the latter 30Hz vs 60Hz.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008D6YZXG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought this one, changes the input automatically when you turn something in and it has a remote.

This one seems like a good offer in case your TV has only 1 HDMI input.

https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD1831-3-Port-Switch-Pigtail/dp/B008GVOVK0/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1485620028&sr=1-3&keywords=hdmi+switch

https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD1831-3-Port-Switch-Pigtail/dp/B008GVOVK0/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1468448312&sr=1-4

I use that to connect my ps3, ps4 and 360 to a single HDMI in. You can look for a 2 to 1 switch since thats what you would need, but you can't beat that price.

Look for something like this:

http://www.coolice.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=7287

Which will take care of the rca and dvi parts of your set up, then get a vga to hdmi cable and a display port to HDMI cable and plug them all into a HDMI "hub" like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD1831-3-Port-Switch-Pigtail/dp/B008GVOVK0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1411160672&sr=8-2&keywords=hdmi+hub

I'm not entire sure what scart is but if you have questions let me know!

This one is the one I use and works well, saw it on quite a few top lists.

HDMI switch

Seriously, it takes one Amazon or Google search.

buy console

buy this thing

put console on top of/behind/in drawer/on floor near PC

buy cheap games off amazon

enjoy all the games you missed

I've used this Fosmon 3 port switch with no problems. I use it to connect my PS3, Xbox 360, and Retron 5 so that my current gen consoles get their own dedicated HDMI port on my TV.

Fosmon 3 Port HDMI switch

It’s not nearly as fancy as the one someone else posted, but I got this one four years ago and it works just fine AND it’s only $9.

Definitely spring for an inexpensive hdmi switcher that covers what you need! It's a great, cheap way to be able to add in more stuff in your setup. I have a couple of different ones and they work well for my purposes:

• The Fosmon pigtail only has devices hooked up to it that can be powered off (like the PS3). It doesn't support a remote, but it doesn't matter since the autoswitching wouldn't be affected by any continuous draw devices (like a Chromecast or FireTV). It doesn't require any power source.
  
  
• The Kinivo 301BN is a lot more flexible. I have it programmed into my Harmony and configured for a multitude of devices, like my 360, Chromecast, Fire Stick, VitaTV, and PC. Since it supports a remote, it doesn't matter that I have devices that are always on connected to it, and the auto switching works like a peach. It requires an external power source.
  
  
• Unfortunately, I ran out of ports on that sucker (it only has 5!), so I bought this TeckNet 3 port. Depending on how much power it can pull over the HDMI, it may not need a power source... I've used it in two setups, one where I was able to just daisy chain it to the Kinivo and one where I had to power it off the USB directly from a TV. Supports a remote, so I got it programmed into the Harmony and it works well for always on devices.
  
  ...also, if you haven't looked into unifying your whole setup with a Harmony-style solution, definitely give it a thought! Initial configuration can be a little annoying, but you kind of forget all about it once you're hopping between presets with single button presses. You don't need to go big money on it...the 650 is a great remote with a nice screen (basically like a fancier version of the Xbox 360 Harmony), or you can go with one of the higher dollar versions that uses your phone/tablet as the primary interface. Very customization, very cool.

You can throw away the sound bar and replace it with a receiver and proper speakers. You could also upgrade your TV and use its optical out. Lastly you could be super ghetto and daisy chain HDMI switch to an HDMI splitter. You would then need to throw away whatever old device you have that didn't use HDMI.

This should do nicely. With this device, you can switch between 3 input devices.

Here's a 3-port HDMI switch with ok reviews. Also it's only 12 bucks. The ad says it supports up to 1900x1200 resolution so if that's not enough I'd just search around for "HDMI switch" on amazon. Link

An HDMI Switch of some kind is probably easiest. You can get them wicked cheap if you're willing to wait awhile on shipping.

You are aware that using an HDMI splitter will only mirror your PC on on both screens?

Two of these would do the trick though.

But there is no way for me to add a power source to either one? I don't think so. I would assume there would need to be a port for that. If the fix was this easy, I'd be very happy. Here are the two HDMI switches I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N5GERR5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008GVOVK0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So you can see the row or red and black connectors on the back of the receiver, those are labeled for the available speaker locations. Standard speaker wire can be used on those as it kinda threads through then screws down tight (banana plug connectors can also be used if purchased). The backs of the speakers have a matching red and black connection that the wire screws into as well. So each speaker will have one red and one black connection.

In my case with this specific setup I am using the amplifier in a bi-amp configuration where I am utilizing the 'Front A' connections for left and right as well as the 'bi-amp' connections. The Klipsch speakers have 2 red and 2 black plugs on the back of them for this purpose. When Bi-amp'ed the speakers are able to use the extra power that another channel may use to give more clarity and over volume.

Yup, that subwoofer cable will work.


 

You can just buy a spool of speaker wire (like this) and that’s all you’ll need, although I recommend getting some banana plugs just to make it easier to unplug stuff if needed, but up to you.

Get some banana plugs from Best buy. Easy to put the wire in them. Then just plug the banana cables into those holes. I got these. Work great! http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-109436-Copper-Speaker-Banana/dp/B0097JLQVC/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1462989207&sr=1-4&keywords=banana+plugs

There is also the closed-screw type, but I found them a little more difficult to install and the wire sticks out of the back, so it can make it more difficult to push the receiver closer to the wall.

http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-109436-Copper-Speaker-Banana/dp/B0097JLQVC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1462317284&sr=1-1&keywords=Monoprice+closed+screw

So, toning them out has been thoroughly answered but to answer how you connect your AVR to this, make some short speaker wires with banana plugs on each end to jump between the wall plate and the AVR.

Here is the setup I went for in a small room. This is for a desk setup in a 11x14 room. Couldn't be happier for about 250$.

Speakers: 90$
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E7H8GG2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Amp:70$
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1454215590&sr=8-1&keywords=smsl+amplifier&linkCode=sl1&tag=zeos-20&linkId=97458c4923f86af9ecf53e1a566a6fca

Sub:81$ https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KGA6A8A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wire:8.50$
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0WDQ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1454214218&sr=8-4&keywords=speaker+wire&linkCode=sl1&tag=zeos-20&linkId=50aa0e85d9168eed8d40f824e4203a64
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-109436-Copper-Speaker-Banana/dp/B0097JLQVC/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1454214342&sr=8-17&keywords=speaker+cable&linkCode=sl1&tag=zeos-20&linkId=2fe231768f52ad0ca86e94f394a83fca

Plugs 10$
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-109436-Copper-Speaker-Banana/dp/B0097JLQVC/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1454214342&sr=8-17&keywords=speaker+cable&linkCode=sl1&tag=zeos-20&linkId=2fe231768f52ad0ca86e94f394a83fca

The micca speakers can use banana plugs or can just have the speaker wire put in them. They unscrew and there is a hole that you can put the wire through. Those are the banana plugs I use and they are great.

Also, this is more or less how it would work. That is with a DAC included. If you don't get a DAC, instead of 'computer usb' into the DAC, it will be a 3.5mm into the amp.

Hope this helps!

Those aren't RCA type inputs on those speakers. They for either banana plugs or bare wire connection. You can cut the RCA jacks off of your speaker wires, then strip the ends down to bare wire..

https://s30.postimg.org/ekkm1em2p/image.jpg

You have to unscrew the red and black caps and insert the wires in the holes in the sides of the posts and then screw the caps back down to secure the wires.

Either that or you can buy banana plugs and connect those to the end of the wires. Then you just plug them into the holes in the center of the posts.

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Plated-Speaker-Banana-Closed/dp/B0097JLQVC/ref=pd_lpo_23_bs_lp_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=RESBVWTWQJRNZRSHNPD9

You have already mentioned that size is a factor. In that case, I can recommend Denon SC-F109, which are almost the same size and about £10 more. Tried, tested and impressed. Never heard the QAcoustics so cannot say anything, but the Denon has a lot of fans in Germany apart from me.


Both of your amps are good enough for desktop use. Get the SA 50 if you also plan on using it for a small party.

The wire seems a bit expensive to me. For that price you could get 100 feet of speaker cable and banana plugs and attach them yourself. All you need is a wire stripper or a pocket knife. In fact, I don't even use banana plugs; they are only convenient if you plan to connect/disconnect speakers often. 12 AWG would be too thick for your purpose, 16 AWG (or even 18) is good enough. You could also save some money by buying per meter (or feet as you're in the UK!) from some sellers or check your local classifieds to see if someone wants to get rid of their extra speaker cable. Also, I can vouch for this 3.5mm to RCA cable. These are a little more expensive, but very well made and don't usually suffer from contact issues.

PS: Just wanted to add some more information about speaker dimensions. H x W x D mm

• Denon SC-F109 - 245 x 165 x 234
  
  
• Wharfedale Diamond 9.0 - 236 x 145 x 165
  
  
• Q Acoustics 2010i - 235 x 150 x 203
  
  So the Wharfedales really are the smallest of the lot, and the Denons the biggest but only in depth.

This https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-V383BL-5-1-Channel-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B06XXR6JK3/ref=dp_ob_title_ce

with this cable https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1-Male-2-Female-RCA-Y-Adapter/dp/B01D5H8RE0/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499935753&sr=1-4&keywords=dual+subwoofer+adapter plug the purple end into the sub out on the receiver then run a left rca to one subwoofer and a right rca to the other(into the sub-in on the Pl-200). Run an hdmi from your Amazon Fire TV to an hdmi input on the receiver and then an hdmi out from the receiver to your tv. If you don't already have speaker wire I recommend https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HZWYP1G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and if you want banana plugs these are good https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Plated-Speaker-Banana-Closed/dp/B0097JLQVC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499936973&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=4+pairs+banana+plugs&psc=1

https://www.pyleusa.com/catalog/product/view/id/5929/s/12-gauge-100-ft-spool-of-high-quality-speaker-zip-wire/

https://www.pyleusa.com/14-gauge-100-ft-spool-of-high-quality-speaker-zip-wire-colors-may-vary.html

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Subwoofer-Cable-50-Feet/dp/B01D5H8J7U

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-109436-Plated-Speaker-Banana/dp/B0097JLQVC

You need speaker wire. Unless you need very long lengths 16 gauge wire is good enough.

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Gauge-Speaker-Oxygen-Copper/dp/B01N6EF3GZ

And a wire cutter for a clean job:

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-3797-7-Inch-Stripper-Cutter/dp/B00AZWWY2K

You can also buy banana plugs to install at the tips. Once you do this you never have to waste time inserting bare wire carefully into the posts.

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-109436-Plated-Speaker-Banana/dp/B0097JLQVC/ref=pd_aw_fbt_23_img_2/143-4216225-4180333?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0097JLQVC&pd_rd_r=9abe4956-cd3f-4392-835d-422b349f4f55&pd_rd_w=w5ces&pd_rd_wg=578Lx&pf_rd_p=6e6afc8a-fbbd-4649-97cf-4e08f5113612&pf_rd_r=ZXGYDM5KD6H0FC4Z4S8M&psc=1&refRID=ZXGYDM5KD6H0FC4Z4S8M

No, generic is fine and I doubt they come with wire.

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0WDQ/ref=pd_sim_23_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=51IOxbn5fgL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR150%2C160_&refRID=1K56846XM9J6X17Y4N42

Banana Plugs are just an easier way to plug the speaker wire into the amp and speakers - making everything nice.

http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-109436-Copper-Speaker-Banana/dp/B0097JLQVC/ref=pd_sim_23_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41QxY56AvVL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1K56846XM9J6X17Y4N42

Try banana plugs for a more secure connection.

Monoprice 109436 Gold Plated... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0097JLQVC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

The owner's manual can be downloaded as a pdf from Denon's website. I'd do that to start.

You'll want an audio cable to connect the CD changer:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B016QVZF06/

Speaker wire (recommended in the thread post):

https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0W5Y

And maybe banana plugs to connect the speaker wires. They aren't required but they make connecting stuff a lot easier:

https://smile.amazon.com/Monoprice-109436-Plated-Speaker-Banana/dp/B0097JLQVC/

Are you hooking up any other equipment?

Yeah great choice.

As far as cables, it really depends on how you have it set up.

The ideal scenario would be (for me at least):

• All video sources into back of receiver with HDMI cables (premium high-speed if it's a 4K source)
  
  
• One HDMI cable from receiver to HDMI 2 in TV (that's the ARC one). This allows you to use the TV apps (Netflix, Amazon, etc) to take advantage of the sweet, sweet Dolby Vision.
  
  
• Speaker wiring. Depends on how you want to wire it. I did in wall wiring so I used CL2 rated wire for the in-wall runs which terminated at a banana plug wall plate behind the receiver and a banana clip wall plate behind F/L and F/R. Then I used clear 14 AWG speaker wire from the wallplates to the receiver and speakers. I went straight from the receiver to the center channel (which you don't have yet). I also pre-wired for surrounds and Atmos but haven't gotten the components (Atmos at least) yet.
  
  
• Speaker wire termination.
  The speakers and receiver have the ability to connect to bare speaker wire but I went the route of using these banana clips for a cleaner look.
  
  Really it all depends on your set-up I guess. I can post some pics of mine to help clarify stuff as well.

I'll be honest, I haven't had time to really do an A/B test on them, and my schedule hasn't afforded me a lengthy listening session, but I am much more confident in these new cables.

I had previously been using this wire! with these banana plugs. They did the job, and I will continue to use those cables when testing equipment for functionality or if I do a temporary setup for a friend or something.

The new wire is 12 AWG single-conductor. I had considered doing 14 AWG dual-conductor (honestly just for looks), but I decided to go with the cheaper option. I may upload some pics at a later date as my setup has changed and moved around quite a bit since my first setup post.

Which solder on plugs do you use? Did you need a high wattage iron to heat it?

I use these plugs

That splitter plus an HDMI switch (like this one https://www.amazon.com/PORTTA-PET0301S-Switcher-Supports-Wireless/dp/B00B46XUQU/ref=sr_1_13?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1474643366&sr=1-13&keywords=hdmi+switch) might be your best option.

My only concern would be the splitter supporting HDCP.

Are you trying to have both hooked up at once so you don't have to keep switching the HDMI cable between the laptop and Wii U?

I think that's what you mean, and if it is you can probably just use this:
http://www.amazon.com/PORTTA-PET0301S-Switcher-Supports-Wireless/dp/B00B46XUQU

You can always get an HDMI switcher box. Not a perfect setup, but I wouldn't let the number of HDMI ports keep you from an otherwise good choice.

PORTTA PET0301S 3x1 Port HDMI Switch/Switcher 1080P Supports 3D with IR Wireless Remote Ultra High... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B46XUQU/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_IA28tb1635VYP

Good reviews works great with ps4

http://www.amazon.com/Portta-PET0301S-HDMI-Switcher-Support/dp/B00B46XUQU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394714831&sr=8-1&keywords=hdmi+switch


something like this?

http://www.amazon.com/Switch-Switcher-Supports-Wireless-Remote/dp/B00B46XUQU/ref=sr_1_1?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1414089837&sr=1-1

I have this one

Cheap as all hell and does the job!

If your videocard's hdmi port is already in use, you have a couple of options. 1. connect the new monitor using the DVI port. 2. purchase an hdmi switcher.

I use something like this to switch between my PC, Xbox360 and PS4.
http://www.amazon.com/PORTTA-PET0301S-Switcher-Supports-Wireless/dp/B00B46XUQU/ref=sr_1_1?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1419696808&sr=1-1&keywords=hdmi+switch

Option 1 is the cheapest as it uses an existing port and your monitor will most probably come with a DVI cable. I would recommend option 2 only if you are looking to push audio via the hdmi cable to a monitor with speakers.

I have this one:
http://www.amazon.com/MASSCOOL-HS-MA103-Amplifier-Switch-3-In-1/dp/B002VD2CF0/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1421006719&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=MASSCOOL+hdmi+switch

But another user with the same problem used this one with success:
http://www.amazon.com/Portta-PET0301S-HDMI-Switcher-Support/dp/B00B46XUQU/

They look virtually identical and are probably made by the same company.

just buy a hdmi splitter.

http://www.amazon.com/Portta-PET0301S-HDMI-Switcher-Support/dp/B00B46XUQU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376961070&sr=8-1&keywords=hdmi+switch

i just bought this one and its kinda shitty ir doesnt work but the switch works. There are much better ones available

I have one! It's not perfect but it works well enough to get the job done and it's better than switching cords around. This one is what I have. I have had it since September 2014 and my only issues are:

Sometimes when I power my TV and device (I have PS4, PS3, and DirecTV plugged in to it) It will be on the channel of the thing I have on but will display no image

Sometimes I will have no audio when I turn the stuff on

The remote is not RFID and I'm spoiled, you have to point it right at the little sensor and the sensor's wire isn't very long.

The audio and image issues are easily solved by just changing the channel back and forth on the splitter.

You may want to consider something like THIS then.

This one is VGA and I imagine you have DVI or HMDI, so you'll have to do some searching.


Edit: Fixed the link.

I plan on using an HDMI switch going into the XB1. $10 on Amazon..

http://www.amazon.com/Portta-PET0301S-HDMI-Switcher-Support/dp/B00B46XUQU/ref=pd_ybh_13

http://www.amazon.com/Portta-PET0301S-HDMI-Switcher-Support/dp/B00B46XUQU/ref=sr_sp-atf_title_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1374362852&sr=1-1&keywords=Hdmi+switch

This is what I have, I ran out of hdmi ports so I use this. It works by always being defaulted to #1 output, but if it senses signal from a different port it automatically switches. It also comes with a remote in case you want to switch hdmi outputs manually.

The first reason, okay but come on mang... http://www.amazon.com/Portta-PET0301S-HDMI-Switcher-Support/dp/B00B46XUQU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368511713&sr=8-1&keywords=HDMI+hub

I can't find it, there are like dozens of cheap ones on amazon, and the brands are always changing. My exact one isn't there anymore, but this one looks close.

http://www.amazon.com/PORTTA-PET0301S-Switcher-Supports-Wireless/dp/B00B46XUQU

Here's a switch that can do up to 8 different inputs. Probably your best bet: http://www.amazon.com/MT-VIKI-AV-Splitter-Selector-Switch/dp/B00DRGDBTG/

(sidenote, the photograph on amazon is actually two units stacked on top of each other. It's half that size. All the plugs go in the back, buttons in the front)

I have one of the same selectors and they are great. Might be worth getting it, I remember them hard to find but this was years ago.

If you want something from Amazon, I have this one and I know it's recommended on here a lot. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DRGDBTG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_xeTLxbJP1SFDK

I was tired of keeping a sticky note on my switchbox to know which switch did what. Whole thing cost me around 3 dollars. Sorry if this post is somewhat irrelevant to the sub.

Switchbox I used:
https://www.amazon.com/MT-VIKI-Splitter-Selector-Adapter-MT-831AV/dp/B00DRGDBTG

Link to the labels:
http://www.redbubble.com/people/oldskoorebel/collections/544143-switchbox-labels

EDIT: forgot to mention this, but I'll make custom labels for anyone that asks. Just number the console labels you want

Here's one with 8 inputs. Two of these daisy chained would work well.

Not OP, but this is the one I use and it comes highly recommended aroud here when this topic comes up:

http://www.amazon.com/MT-VIKI-AV-Splitter-Selector-Switch/dp/B00DRGDBTG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1392184555&sr=8-2&keywords=av+switch

Ah, cable management, every collector's nightmare. Do yourself a favor and go the extra mile now while you can organize it from the beginning instead of just getting it all set up and worrying later. It's a real pain in the ass to wade through cables and the like. I'd recommend finding yourself an AV switch kinda like this. It will save you a lot of hassle if you dont have enough ports on your TV, and judging by your spread, you probably will need one. That way you can twist-tie all your cables from the get go without having to worry about them going loose from plug-switching. Also, invest in a nice surge protector.

http://www.amazon.com/MT-VIKI-Splitter-Selector-Adapter-MT-831AV/dp/B00DRGDBTG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1426453167&sr=8-4&keywords=rca+switch+box

Just plug the DAC's output into the "out" and the output to your speaker and headphone amp to two of the "inputs". Not as the product's intended to work, but it does indeed work.

EDIT: Or you could go cheaper and just get a cable splitter... Although this option gives you vaguely more functionality and a much nicer box.

I use two of these switch boxes to toggle between consoles. It's not the cleanest/slickest setup, but they're cheap and they work!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DRGDBTG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yes both are av switches. The one with s-video is http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DSQMVKU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1420291068&sr=8-1&dpPl=1&dpID=51uveTmBlCL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40 and the one with just composite is http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DRGDBTG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1420291068&sr=8-3&dpPl=1&dpID=41lebNURx6L&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

The S video switch has five inputs and two outputs, the composite switch has eight inputs and one output. The one with S video is autoswitching but requires power. If I had it to do again I would just buy two autoswitching S video boxes. They were cheaper and easier to use. Quality on both seems good.

The Yellow Composite Cable is shared with the Green Component input (second pic where it says "Video/Y"). Then just plug in the red & white audio to the left of that.

Then get something like this to switch consoles.

This and This should sort you out.

Yes, it’s called an RCA Switcher.

https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Switcher-Composite-Selector-Consoles/dp/B00KXVBB7C

Take a look at this. I use this for my game collection. I still have to use two switches though.

http://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Switcher-Composite-Selector-Consoles/dp/B00KXVBB7C

I have a couple of these here. Then use a AV to HDMi converter for the big screen since it doesn't have any av hook ups. Im sure there are better solutions out there but this was reasonably inexpensive.

Edit* you can see one of them on top of the Xbox 360.

https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Switcher-Composite-Selector-Consoles/dp/B00KXVBB7C/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=av+switch&qid=1574462496&sprefix=av+swi&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyWVMxRVE3V1o3UUlLJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDUxNzk3SzhFMzlKVjZOUUVIJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA2MjIwNTYxTERXR0pFTEZCWVY4JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfc2VhcmNoX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

https://www.amazon.com/Steam-Link-pc/dp/B016XBGWAQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518649330&sr=8-1&keywords=steam+link

au pire. C'est typique d'Amazon.ca de charger 5 fois plus cher :p

De toute façon, même à 65$ c'est pas cher pour une solution tout en un

/u/JudaiMustang is right - wired is the way to go.

If for some reason that's entirely impractical for you, maybe check out Steam Link if you're wanting to play games on your TV. Beware that it will not work as well, especially on 2.4GHz wireless.

Steam Link is cheaper on Amazon with free prime shipping my dude

https://www.amazon.com/Steam-Link-pc/dp/B016XBGWAQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1509547174&sr=1-1&keywords=steam+link&dpID=31SX34IRz2L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Amazon US $34.99 Steam Link

You're not going to the response time via AirPlay. You might want to consider getting a Steam Link if you want to stream Steam games from your PC/Mac to your TV.

Steam

GameStop (sale - $19.99)

Amazon (sale - $19.99)

I am not based in the US, so unfortunately, due to regional restrictions, Steam does not allow me to gift any hardware.

However, this item is available on Amazon.com. Are you able to create an amazon wishlist for this?

here

Something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Speaker-Headset-Switching-Manhattan-172851/dp/B000K8PH8C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1398567006&sr=8-2&keywords=audio+switcher

Also saw this:

http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_65?ie=UTF8&qid=1398566730&sr=8-65&keywords=headphone+switch

Or this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Plantronics-Audio-PC-Headset-Speaker-Switch-with-flippable-switch-New-In-Box-/271263727873?pt=US_Computer_Headsets&hash=item3f28940101

This switch or anything like it should do the trick.

I have this and it works great

https://www.amazon.com/Speaker-Headset-Switching-Manhattan-172851/dp/B000K8PH8C/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1465885149&sr=1-5&keywords=headphone+switch

Something like this

http://www.amazon.com/Speaker-Headset-Switching-Manhattan-172851/dp/B000K8PH8C/

Hey I used to want a way to switch quickly between speakers and headset. I use Windows 10 and this thing works perfectly for me.

You can use an inline switch like this:

Audio Speaker / Headset Switching Hub, Manhattan 172851 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K8PH8C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1QLmybA0XA7Q6

Or something similar.

Yeah,

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K8PH8C?keywords=stereo%20switch&qid=1449583077&ref_=sr_1_5&sr=8-5

you need something like this

http://www.amazon.com/RCA-CRF940-Modulator-Gold-Plated-Connectors/dp/B00008X5DD

or this
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014KKV7W

rf (radio frequency) modulator or a really old TV!

Your TV doesn't have an ATSC receiver at all? Weird. https://www.amazon.ca/RCA-Compact-RF-Modulator-CCRF907/dp/B0014KKV7W
That'll fix that up though.

The Apple II has a composite video output - but you need an RF modulated signal for your tv. So, you can take the composite video signal to an RF modulator, like this one. If your television doesn't have a coaxial antenna input, you'll also need an antenna matching transformer, like this one.

thank you! I think I have this one in a box somewhere. Hopefully I can find it and test it out

I'm not positive, as I've never used anything like it before, but I imagine you would need something like this: http://www.amazon.com/RCA-Compact-RF-Modulator-CRF907R/dp/B0014KKV7W

No idea about any potential lag.

https://www.amazon.com/RCA-Compact-RF-Modulator-CRF907R/dp/B0014KKV7W

Dunno if it will lag.

Here is one on Amazon.com in case you're a shut-in like me.

Also, on your digital converter box, if the red,yellow,white cables are marked as "input" and the thick cable with the metal end is marked as "output" or "TV" then you don't need to buy anything. You could plug the gamecube into the box and put the TV on the appropriate channel.

You'll need a AV cable for the Xbox 360 that will have RCA outputs on it, something like this. Then an RF modulator, this will allow your cable TV to pass through if you connect it to the ANT IN. Also if you have an old VCR laying around you can use that instead of buying an RF modulator.

I would likely use either 2x4 or 2x6 instead of 2x10.

• Drill pilot holes in those braces that you will drive the lag bolts through into the studs
  
  
• Finish the 2x4 or 2x6 you use before mounting it to the wall. When faced with this, I actually used a piece of 1" good quality plywood that I sanded down, routed the edges nicely, primed, and painted before sticking on the wall. Whatever you wind up using, make it look good even if you think you're never going to see it.
  
  
  
• Buy these and install them before hanging the tv on the wall. Read the instructions thoroughly.
  
  
  
• Buy these and stick them into the other things. Read the instructions thoroughly.
  
  
  
• You can get brackets that attach to the back of the tv mount that hide things like cable boxes, set top boxes, etc. We have Google Wifi hubs mounted behind our two wall mounted tv's to free up space on the surfaces the stands one stood on. They make brackets for everything, including generic brackets and even specific ones for like Nvidia Shield Console.
  
  
  
• Check cable length. If snaking cables through the wall, you may need to get longer HDMI cables.
  
  
  
  Some Links
  
  
• http://studs.m88play.com/wall-studs-too-far-apart-for-tv-mount/
  
  
• http://www.displays2go.com/Article/Common-Mistakes-When-Mounting-TV-10
  
  

Dunno where you live but an electrician should be able to wire and install one of these as well as one of these on an adjacent wall for about $200.

Cut out two holes in my wall and mounted these plates
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00193U3O0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T1_2G5BzbY42CNMT

Ran the wires behind the wall.

When I wall mounted my TV, I used one of these recessed wall plate to pass the power and HDMI cable through the wall to the TV:

https://www.amazon.com/DataComm-45-0001-WH-1-Gang-Recessed-Voltage/dp/B00193U3O0/

The cables can be positioned at any angle, so they don't stick out at far. Actually, if you look at a female HDMI wall plate, the cable is sticking out straight out of the wall and harder to hide behind a mounted TV.

Honestly, I don't see the benefit of a HDMI wall plate over a cable passthrough plate. Either way, you have a HDMI cable and power cable running from the wall to the TV. One isn't "cleaner" than the other.

If you want a power outlet instead of just the cord for some reason, this is also an option:

https://www.amazon.com/Datacomm-45-0031-WH-Recessed-Voltage-Receptacle/dp/B004GZ89N0/

If that is the case then I would consider purchasing a number of the in-wall cable management gangs and running the wires though the walls as close to their intended location.

https://www.amazon.com/DataComm-45-0001-WH-1-Gang-Recessed-Voltage/dp/B00193U3O0/ref=br_lf_m_zqbbrywou2wx7aq_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&s=aht


Also, since you already have power running there, you can look for this type of in wall management system, and simply widen the existing holes.

Totally agree -- going for these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00193U3O0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I don't trust the pass-through capability of the HDMI couplers for differing HDMI standards.

If you are allowed to drill holes (I see the TV is mounted), you really should do something like this:


Datacomm Electronics 50-3323-WH-KIT Flat Panel TV Cable Organizer Kit with Power Solution - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PB7UVA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rJ6mDb8BN2EDM

Yup, you cut a pair of holes in the wall. If you want to throw money at the problem, you can install something like this to get both power and a spot for cabling up there. Or if you're handy, you can install your own outlet and just get some brush plates for your HDMI etc.

Amazing work man!

If you own your own place (or don't care about large holes in the wall) might I suggest one of these.

Really makes a huge difference in how clean something looks.

I would highly recommend just getting something like this, https://www.amazon.com/DataComm-Electronics-50-6623-WH-KIT-Organizer-Solution/dp/B001PB7UVA It's not really that much extra effort. you run the wires like you already did, but you use a solid wire rated for in-wall inside the wall.

​

Exactly what might happen if you just use a normal extension cable in the wall. I'm not sure besides potential fire hazard (extension cables do heat up as you run current through it, normal it dissipates it just because it's lying around. Being insulated within the wall sounds like a potentially bad idea).

Really cool looking setup. Just want to point out a few things.

1. The power cord for the monitors is not rated for in-wall use and is against code. You should get one of these.
   
   
2. You're putting a lot of stress on the glass with that clamp holding up four monitors. It may look thick and secure, but it will shatter on you one day and break all four monitors when they fall down. Get a thin piece of wood and run it underneath your table along the back edge. Secure the clamp onto that piece of wood rather than directly against the glass. Home Depot, or any other home improvement store, will have really good looking appearance boards. Get a 1x4 cut to the length of the table right at the store and attach it to the bottom of the glass using contact cement. The clamp will keep it in place and distribute the load much more evenly.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001PB7UVA/ref=mp_s_a_1_sc_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511231243&sr

Here is one I found on Amazon that should do the trick.

Umm, actual professional AV Installer here.

1. Customers hate being told they have bad ideas.
   
2. People will think this person is nuts if they don't put the tv over the fireplace plus it's kind of a small area so, yeah, the tv's going over the fireplace.
   
3. There's a ton of room behind the top of the fireplace opening because the entire FP unit itself if made of metal and placed in to the framed out wall. The key is what's below you, is it open or finished basement? I'm assuming open or drop ceiling.
   
4. What you want to do is get your cables (including romex) down the inside of the wall just to the side of the fireplace. It looks like about 6 inches wide there. There's an decent amount of wood so you can cut a 1 1/2 inch hole through the floor (inside the wall!). It looks like the right side will have the gas feed, you'll know this by the chrome key plate on the wall, so use the other side for your cables just to be on the safe side.
   
5. Depending on the tv bracket you get (and the weight of your tv), you may need to secure a sheet of plywood to the wall first. Better yet, I would cut out a good amount of sheet rock (2x4ft) so you can stick your whole head and shoulders in the wall to see where your cables are going. Then just cover that hole up with the plywood.
   
6. I'd go with a small cabinet just below those windows there to hold your cable box, xbox, av gear, etc. It looks like there's already a cable outlet there so when you're in the basement you'll want to come up right along side that with all your cables. Bring your romex up along there too but in a different stud cavity. You want to keep a minimum of 6 inches of space between high voltage and low voltage and if they have to cross be sure it's at 90 degrees.
   
7. Buy this http://amzn.to/O53Odf or something like it to extend the electric. This will pass NEC code. Extension cords are not allowed inside the walls. Plug it in to the wall under those windows or better yet get a good surge protector.
   
8. Sorry, just realized this is a 2month old post. How did it go?! haha

The easiest thing may be one of these, or something similar:

iSimple IS31 Antenna Bypass FM Modulator for Factory or Aftermarket Car Radios https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002U5XPBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_osCxxb6Z9WQDT

Maybe they make a Bluetooth one too... If not you could always use one of those stand alone ones and just run it into this.

I have an 01' but Im pretty sure that this, or something similar, will work and it looks pretty stock, you also need an RCA to 3.5mm adaptor, I got this one
this thing basically bypasses your FM antenna and gives you an aux input, I put mine under the climate control and the input and switch are hidden behind the DIN pocket

it looks like the antenna size might be different in the 06(i cant really tell), but there are adaptors

Idk, but back in the day when I had this kind of setup I had great luck with inline antenna bypass unit, the sound was near perfect. However, that might be more work than you're looking to invest into this.

> They're stuck with cds or those horrible radio adaptors that always play Mexican radio channels with the same song in a loop at random moments.

You can buy a wired FM modulator that will do much better. Same idea as the little transmitter dongles, except instead of competing with all the other real transmissions bouncing around, you connect it directly to the antenna connector on the back of your stereo.

Might be easier to just get an amplifier that has speaker-level inputs. The speaker wires from the head unit go to the amp, then run the amp outputs to the speakers you want. Usually the speaker level inputs on the amp have gain adjustments and some other switches.

For the mp3 player, I'd put an FM modulator between the antenna and the head unit. Like THIS. You select the radio frequency you want to 'inject' the aux signal at and tune to that station to hear it. I think some of these units even integrate bluetooth.

Also, check out /r/carav for possibly better info.

I've had a handful of FM transmitters -- all wired, but that shouldn't make a difference -- and I've had mixed results.

The last one I bought, though, worked great -- I just can't remember which one it was, and I gave it to my sister.

So, you'll likely run into the same issues you've already dealt with with FM transmitters.

Another option is an antenna bypass: http://www.amazon.com/iSimple-IS31-Antenna-Modulator-Aftermarket/dp/B002U5XPBE

Any one who can install a car stereo should be able to hook that up.

You are always going to need more stuff. Go pick out a radio at http://www.crutchfield.com/ and see what they tell you needs to go with it. You can probably find similar parts on amazon too.

FM transmitter is really hard to recommend. You can try an FM modulator though. http://www.amazon.com/iSimple-IS31-Antenna-Modulator-Aftermarket/dp/B002U5XPBE/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1411171865&sr=1-1&keywords=fm+modulator Basically the same thing, except it pipes the FM signal directly inline to the antenna, instead of going over the air. Not sure what your OEM antenna connection is, this may also require additional parts.

I just checked crutchfield. You need the standard wiring harness, antenna adapter and trim ring. If you want to cut your factory harness (not recommended) you can get away with out the harness, but always a pain.

Connect it up with solder or waterproof crimp caps.

You can tap directly into the FM antenna to provide a new input. From there you could do wired Aux, or go Bluetooth.

Here's an example (no experience with this specific item): https://www.amazon.com/iSimple-IS31-Antenna-Modulator-Aftermarket/dp/B002U5XPBE

FM transmitters will reduce sound quality. Bluetooth will reduce sound quality. You have both, so they're both reducing the quality of the sound.

Radio stations have huge towers to produce a strong signal, which you're picking up with the antenna of your car. The transmitter you're using produces a very weak signal, which is fine to produce a small "station" for your car, but isn't strong enough to transmit the bass and treble of audio.

So, there isn't any way to increase the quality of an FM transmitter (that I know of). Which leaves you two options.

1. Buy an aftermarket head unit for your car that has bluetooth or an auxiliary input.
   
   
2. Get an FM modulator. This is what I use in my car. It's sort of like your FM transmitter, but instead of producing a little bubble station to play audio over it you plug it in behind the radio and it takes over the stations. Instead of broadcasting a station, it's hardwired to play louder than other stations. It's CD quality audio. I'm not an audiophile, but I really like good quality sound and it sounds amazing.
   
   This is what I purchased. I've had it in my car for about 3 years and it's worked flawlessly the entire time.
   
   This one has bluetooth, but is a lot more expensive.
   
   Good luck!

this style is the best if you are going FM route: https://www.amazon.com/iSimple-IS31-Antenna-Modulator-Aftermarket/dp/B002U5XPBE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538630528&sr=8-3&keywords=fm+aux+input&dpID=4118aiHATML&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

the unit is physically wired to the antenna instead of broadcasting to your antenna.

Additionally you could do what I did and keep your stock radio, the catch is you'll be installing an "antenna bypass"

You could even go one step further, and have it even be bluetooth

There are two ways to do FM transmitters. The over-the-air ones just transmit on FM over an open spot on the dial and you pick it up but these are very susceptible to noise and issues. On the other hand, there are FM modulators and plug in between the radio and the antenna and give you a switch and an aux in port. When flipped, the radio then receives a signal (sent as FM into the antenna port) from the aux in port. They're pretty cheap and avoid some of the interference issues. Here's an example.

http://www.amazon.com/iSimple-IS31-Antenna-Modulator-Aftermarket/dp/B002U5XPBE

Alternatively, you'd add a line-in. In my case the radio didn't have one but I bought something that plugs into an open spot for a CD changer on the back of the radio and gives me an aux-in. It cost the same as the fm modulator and I wasn't using the cd-changer input anyway so I went that direction.

One of these:

iSimple IS31 Antenna Bypass FM Modulator for Factory or Aftermarket Car Radios https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002U5XPBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_k2YVCb4TM22NZ

Basically it goes inline with your antenna wire, and then plugs into the stereo jack on your phone (as an interrupt). I haven't touched my radio in YEARS.
Tune to the station the device is set at (around 87.3 or something) and you're set.
It DOES (hardly) interfere with signal, but it's minimal and goes back when you turn it off. I have the power to mine go on when I turn my stereo on.


Pairs well with one of these, which allows you to rid of the wire all together by using bluetooth.

There are cheaper ones, but this is the one I've got.

Bluetooth Car Adapter with 2 Built-in Mics, 15 Hours Hands-Free Talking Bluetooth Receiver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CPL947B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_G4YVCb82Q0PTN

As a bonus, while you've got your dash disassembled, this works well too. Get rid of your cigarette lighter, and replace it with a permanent USB Quick Charge jack. This one is silver, but they have others.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MNDDTP6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PhZVCbD77DPB3

There is a system that I've seen that intercepts the antenna plug into the stock radio, and connects via an aux cord or Bluetooth to a phone. When the radio is set to a given frequency it channels into the adapter and streams your music as though it was broadcast like any other radio station. It offers a higher quality sound and is generally more reliable than a traditional fm transmitter, and requires no real alteration.

Here is one on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002U5XPBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_5TspybXTJD4VB

While battery powered transmitters do exist, the best solution for you is going to be a wired FM modulator. Hardwired behind the factory radio and gives you undisputed better sound quality than any transmitter ever could.

https://www.amazon.com/iSimple-IS31-Antenna-Modulator-Aftermarket/dp/B002U5XPBE/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=isimple+fm+modulator&qid=1571349152&sprefix=isimple+fm+m&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/iSimple-IS31-Antenna-Modulator-Aftermarket/dp/B002U5XPBE

I have one of these and I adore it. It can be attached to any car stereo with an fm antenna port, and can provide you with an rca-in. There are a few models that allow Bluetooth too, but they climb up in cost. :)

Wired FM modulator. Works with any car and you won't get the drop in quality you would get with a wireless transmitter.

What you mean is an FM modulator... like this: http://www.amazon.com/iSimple-IS31-Antenna-Modulator-Aftermarket/dp/B002U5XPBE

I had one, and they sound like shit, but you can add an AUX to a radio system that didn't previously have one.

Something like this might work better if you intend on keeping the factory radio.

I'd recommend:

Roku Stick, Raspberry Pi with Kodi and Retro Pie. That'll get you everything you need. For Kodi and Retro Pie, you can have both running where you don't have to reboot or swap SD cards, as shown here.

To run your PC through the projector, you can use cat5e with HDMI baluns. You can route that through the wall, attic, and down the wall to your projector, or you can just run it around the perimeter of the room.

To have everything run through the projector, you can pick up a simple HDMI switch online for something like $30.

To control everything, you could probably figure out a way to make a Harmony remote handle the work, or you can use your phone if it has IR.

http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-301BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049S6ZUS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1416935726&sr=8-2&keywords=hdmi+switch

Off topic: I ran into the problem of not having enough HDMI on my TV as well and this little device has been amazing at getting all consoles onto one TV. I have 3 HDMI on my TV so I have Live Television one the first, this adapter; which has all of my consoles (Wii U, Xbox One, and PS4) ,and the last is for my PC.

http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-301BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049S6ZUS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1456898010&sr=8-2&keywords=kinivo+hdmi+switch

I have something like this for my main setup:
http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-301BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049S6ZUS

You can have it switch inputs automatically, and it comes with a remote. Fairly cheap solution without buying a whole new monitor.

I'm wondering if HDCP would prevent the use of a splitter with Xbox One. I see that listing specifically says it doesn't support HDCP.

One thing that would probably work is an HDMI switch like this one but you would have to manually switch between the two TVs. It wouldn't output to both of them at the same time. They're typically used for plugging two video sources into one HDMI port on the TV. I'm not sure if they work the other way arround

HDMI initiates device identification and authentication during a handshake using HDCP. The secure key generated during authentication prevents connecting multiple devices to the same output.

You could use an HDMI switch box though.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0049S6ZUS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1394027690&sr=8-1

I have that one. Works great.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049S6ZUS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00

This is the cheapest one with decent reviews and it works really good for me.

Hi there Steve! I had a similar predicament about six months ago when we set up a secondary HT system in our bedroom and I actually bought a different Konivo model that has three HDMI-outs. It's been working splendidly ever since; I should note that it replaced another splitter (the PORTTA PET0301S) that died after only a couple months, so the fact that our new model is working problem-free is a relief.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049S6ZUS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Edit: Forgot to mention the splitter I recommended is self-powered and also will auto-select the active port, which is definitely a nice addition.

For that use case, you could also go with an HDMI switch--something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049S6ZUS

As far as your first question goes, the Switch itself wouldn't be able to automatically unless your TV also supports that. Some TVs will auto switch to a different input if a new signal is detected. If your TV does not have that feature then you can use a device like I use to give your TV more HDMI inputs (Kinivo HDMI switch). This device auto switches to the device that just turned on. You leave your TV on the same input and this device handles all the switching. It comes with a control to manually switch inputs as well. Something to consider!

Your second question...I haven't read anything on whether or not that will be a feature. I don't think we know at this time.

Edit: Wording.

IDK how many inputs your Bose system has but you could get 2 of these
https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Extractor-Optical-Converter-VHD-H2HSAs/dp/B00KBHX072

and if you want to be very lazy add this
https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1484164635&sr=1-2&keywords=auto+switching+hdmi+switch

Buy 10 of these
2 of these
1 of these

and a bunch of HDMI cables

I'm planning my PC setup, and I want to connect my PC to a TV, problem is I don't have enough HDMI slots to connect my PC, ps4, cable box and Nintendo switch, so I need an HDMI switcher, this is the one I found on Amazon; Kinivo 501BN Premium 5 port High speed HDMI switch with IR wireless remote and AC Power adapter - supports 3D, 1080p https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_iGHizb09E00MA
Anyway my question is, will this work? Are there better options for a better price?
Also, I am going to get a dedicated monitor down the line but until I have the money for it and I can find one I like, my TV is going to be my primary monitor, so no answers along the lines of "just buy a monitor"

An HDMI switch maybe and then adapt each composite input into HDMI with one of these to be able to plug into the switch.

That's gonna be a converter for each of the older consoles (PS2, GameCube and N64) then the rest (Xbox 360, Wii) they run HDMI native IIRC so they just plug into the HDMI switch.

For an HDMI switch, I use this: Kinivo Switch, and it works great. I have a PS4, XB1, Wii U, Switch and PS3 hooked up to it. I have no issues with it, and recommend it. I am running everything at 1080, though.


I also have 2 of the Pelican System Selector Pro 2.0's that I absolutely love. Each one has 6 inputs, capable of switching composite, s-video and component. You have to run the appropriate outputs, so you are really limited to using 1 type of output realistically. If you get fancy with the output wiring you can mix and match, but I like to keep it simple. I use S-Video for everything that supports it into the selectors and then into a Toshiba CRT TV. I don't see any on eBay right now, but that's pretty much where you're gonna find them. I really like mine and recommend trying to scoop one up.


I used to run the regular Pelican System Selectors that had push buttons to switch sources. They work, but don't look as slick as the Pro's and Pro 2.0's.


Mixing inputs gets tricky, and I typically run different switching units for different types of outputs (s-video, component, HDMI). Here is a link to my setup I posted on reddit a few weeks ago: my setup

The HDMI handshake always takes some time, and Windows is particularly annoying with displays in my experience. Even if I plug my display in directly without any interruption or switching, simply changing between "active" and "disabled" in Windows causes all connected displays to turn on and off for several seconds. Windows often scrambles which display has my icons and open programs, too. I see how that'd be a big problem for you. Its not home and not theater, but I'm looking into it.

The ideal approach off the top of my head would be to have the display already "on" and connection negotiated, then just not display the image until its needed. I've got a few ideas:

- There are fast HDMI switchers out there. They are the ones that have an option to display which ever input is currently active, but support only one output each. They are cheap, though. This product on Amazon claims that the connected PCs can have their output as "always on", then it simply displays either the first active one or the one selected via remote. $40 https://www.amazon.ca/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y

- Try looking into "presentation switchers" instead. They start pretty cheap at B&H, but would do more what you want. KannexPro, for example,even has UltraFast HDMI switchers boasting 0.2 seconds switching time. This particular one is pricier at $500, but it says it can pre-store the EDID information of multiple displays to switch HDCP signals faster: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1424577-REG/kanexpro_hdmx42_18g_4x2_hdmi_2_0_4k_60.html

- Perhaps instead of connecting them as displays, have you tried adding a capture card to the PCs and connecting the output of that to a switch? This should at least negate Windows messing with it

- Or, alternatively have a PC/laptop/cheap Android tablet connected to the projector, and have it remotely display the content of one of the other PCs via wired LAN? You can probably get a sufficient connection going over LAN

You're talking about an HDMI switcher or a splitter? Assuming you mean a switcher, I'd recommend Kinivo. Good quality and even comes with a remote to change input so you don't have to get up and push a button on it.

Get one of these and you can have multiple devices plugged into the rear HDMI in

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Electronics-Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1452462932&sr=1-7&keywords=hdmi+switch

Has anyone used any of these HDMI switchers before?

I'm getting one for use with my Switch/Wii U/SNES Classic/NES Classic

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049SCB2Y

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BV1XBIY/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QQA6K84/

I'd recommend this if you don't need to view them simultaneously: http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=pd_cp_pc_0
I use it for switching between HDMI device inputs on my TV... it's responsive... less then a second between changing inputs. Just run the 3 HDMI cables into this and then 1 out to a monitor. You won't even need a laptop. I like this option better then simultaneous anyways because you can get a full screen view.

I maxed out connections on my TV very quickly, as my 51" plasma only has 2 HDMI inputs. I have one HDMI cable running to my PC, and the other to my PS3. To make matters worse, the inputs are on the back of the TV and it's mounted on a wall.

So what I do is just leave the same cable plugged into the TV at all times, and if I ever want want to play my 360, I'll unplug the HDMI cable from the back of the PS3 and stick it into the 360. It's a lot easier than having to fumble around behind the TV. But not everyone has easy access to the back of their PS3/360 like I do, and even for me it's still annoying... Good thing I don't play my 360 much.

However, there is such a thing as an HDMI splitter.

An HDMI switch turns one HDMI port into five. Would this help?

Kinivo 501BN Premium 5 port High speed HDMI switch with IR wireless remote and AC Power adapter - supports 3D, 1080p https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_-qDfvb1G3M7P0

I have been using this one for about half a year with a lot of success. I also bought a big pack of AmazonBasics long HDMI cables to go with it. I think at the beginning I had one issue with a screen flickering, but I unplugged and replugged and I haven't had an issue for a long time. My real issue is when I'm playing PS4 in the morning and my PS3 comes on to auto-update and this switcher auto-switches to the PS3. Gah! Wait a min switchy thing. Just have to push the button on it to force switch when that happens. I like it so far.

https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y

If it helps, I have a PS4, PS3, Steam Streamer Box, PS2, and Wii all plugged into it going into a Samsung HDMI TV (not 4K).

If you're curious, I have HDMI adapters in the Wii and PS2, so that's how that works. They also are great and I got them off Amazon, can't recall which obscure brand. Though they do occasionally have their issues since they're all weird knockoff checp things.

I bought a Kinivo 501BN and have been very happy with it. It has 4 in and 1 out, so between this and the other HDMI input on your receiver, you'd have your needs met.

My only complaint about the Kinivo product is that you can't disable the auto-switching.

I highly recommend this one, I have it and have had zero issues with it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049SCB2Y/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Having an issue using an hdmi switch + audio extractor and wanted to see if anyone had some ideas.

Currently I'm using this 5 port switch which then outputs to this audio extractor which is then fed into my PC for listening. This works perfectly for my PS4 but I get no audio when the switch is docked.

I have this but it does have 1 dead input and WAS $29.99 when I bought it. It auto detects usually when I turn on a new device.

Most HDMI switches only changes the input based on power state changes and not on modern CEC commands that Chromecast uses when you start casting.

Chromecast is always on so it won't work, it will only forward the command to set the correct input on the TV and not on the switch itself, unless you're willing to pay more for a CEC-Enabled Switch. And I think at this point you should be looking to upgrade your TV/AVR so you can have CEC built in instead.

Then if you need more HDMI inputs, you can get a cheap one like this. Using it for more than a year and ARC and CEC passthrough works perfectly. It also switch back to the last active device in order when you shutdown one and never needed to use the remote!

Would like to know about this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049SCB2Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3TG9YEWX61L6A&psc=1

Planning on getting it, but I'm now not sure if it works okay with the Switch.

Kinivo 501BN is supported according to the Harmony compatibility page. Won't be setting it up until after the holidays, so I can't speak from personal experience.

He said it was in the software already, many devices are already in the Harmony database.

I bought this one back in 2012 and I still use it with my harmony, pretty sure it was already in the database.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049SCB2Y

Kinivo 501BN, been using this exact model since i bought the switch in may last year

was using the 3 port one before i bought the switch though

That'd work fine, assuming just 1080p60, there are cheaper models available too such as this https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD1832-Intelligent-Adapter-Supports/dp/B008D6YZXG/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1495490714&sr=1-4&keywords=hdmi+switch+remote

Not a specific TV recommendation, but remember that you can just buy a cheap HDMI switch if the model you want doesn't have enough HDMI ports. At that budget that's a real possibility. Honestly, I would recommend one anyway because many will automatically detect what input is being used and switch for you.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008D6YZXG/

This is the one I use and it works flawlessly.

Amazon HDMI

Does the Belkin switch work with just the computer output plugged in?

Also I saw this one. It might work for you.

If the speakers have USB and 3.5mm, then they're using USB for power and getting audio from your built-in sound card. You'll have to look through the control panel for the sound card to see if it has that option anywhere. If it doesn't, you have a few options.

1. You could buy a separate sound card with better options. I wouldn't go this route.
   
2. You could buy something like this, which I also wouldn't recommend.
   
3. Most monitors have a headphone jack, and your video card can send audio to your monitor. You could connect one of your devices to your monitor, and the other directly to your PC, and switch between them using the Sound window. Your video card's audio output should be listed as 'NVIDIA High Definition Audio', and there will be several, but you can right-click each and choose Test to figure out which one is connected to your monitor. If your monitor doesn't have built-in speakers, you should connect your headphones (or speakers) first, then test.

I've been using one of these for about a decade. It's not cool looking, but it's simple, effective, and inexpensive.

My mic isn't hooked through it anymore, since that is USB, and I've never tried a 2.5mm headset (cell phone or XB360 style) with it, but I tend to choose form over function.

You mean like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Speaker-Headset-Switching-Manhattan-172851/dp/B000K8PH8C

I'm assuming you'd need an audio-switch, something like so: http://www.amazon.com/Speaker-Headset-Switching-Manhattan-172851/dp/B000K8PH8C/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1462993983&sr=1-4&keywords=audio+switch&refinements=p_72%3A1248879011

This will allow you to connect both devices (speakers and headset) to your computer, and switch between both with the click of a button. Comes down to preference on exactly what type of device you want- as well as what your hardware requires (how many jacks are needed..etc)

You can get a hardware switch like this one or this one.

Here's a start:

http://www.amazon.com/Speaker-Headset-Switching-Manhattan-172851/dp/B000K8PH8C/ref=pd_sim_sbs_pc_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0ABFC81S84YTX2QQRFQ1

http://www.amazon.com/Sescom-SES-IPOD-AB-Stereo-MP3-Player/dp/B005TE7GP4/ref=pd_sim_sbs_pc_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0ABFC81S84YTX2QQRFQ1

No. Using one disables the other, ports and all.

But based on your description of what you're trying to accomplish, I think this $15 product (or something like it) is exactly what you need

Depends on how many cables you're going to have to buy. The link you have is for an AV switcher, which is going to have 3 RCA jacks for each input/output (video, l-audio, r-audio). Your laptop almost certainly has a stereo headphone output jack, so that's 1 cable right there. What are the other two things you're gonna plug into the box, and what kind of jacks/plugs do they have?

Maybe this is more like what you need...?

I had to get a hardware solution for this, as the headphone jack on my wife's computer doesn't mute the speakers.

Something like:
http://www.amazon.com/Manhattan-Speaker-Headset-Audio-Switch/dp/B000K8PH8C

Though the one I got was a chinese import and cost about $4.00. Don't remember where I got it from, though.

I'm liking my Creative Fatal1ty headset, I'm hearing impaired so sound quality really doesn't affect me unless it's NOTICEABLY bad. I find this headset to be comfortable on my head and it works out pretty well. Also so I don't have to keep swapping between speaker and headset, I also purchased one of these to swap between the two with just a button press.

ahh, getcha.

something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K8PH8C/ref=asc_df_B000K8PH8C5038068/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B000K8PH8C&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167141218295&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10843108392117504593&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007767&hvtargid=pla-305850148051

I just use a media hub (Amazon link) that you plug the speakers into one side and headphones into another. It offers a secondary level of volume control and just swaps back and forth with a button press. I know if my headphones are playing that my speakers aren't and vice versa.

what about these instead of a playback

http://www.amazon.com/Speaker-Headset-Switching-Manhattan-172851/dp/B000K8PH8C/ref=pd_sim_cps_2/184-1135954-5370411?ie=UTF8&refRID=0FTFBBFRZNGS4RTYQZ46

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000069E1V/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me=

https://www.amazon.com/Speaker-Headset-Switching-Manhattan-172851/dp/B000K8PH8C/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_lp_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=H0M2E333ZJX4Q9T3PMP5&dpID=415VJ4uVQ5L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

You might want to look for something like this then. Not sure if that one is any good, just trying to give you a base for your search.

Use a 3.5mm switch or hub. Probably something like this. Caution: I have not used it personally.

I'm using this nice 13$ audio switch from Amazon. Works well. Not the best sound quality but totally worth the price.

I'm looking for a piece of hardware that will allow me to switch between my 5.1 speaker system and my headphones with one button.

I tried getting a switch but it only works for my headphones. When I siwtch to speakers, only the subwoofer and center speaker work.

I'd like to do this without getting another sound card, but that's starting to seem less likely.

Any suggestions?

https://www.roku.com/products/roku-express-plus

RF modulators:
https://www.amazon.com/RCA-Compact-RF-Modulator-CRF907A/dp/B0014KKV7W
https://www.amazon.com/RCA-Composite-Coax-Coaxial-Converter/dp/B06XC9Y3VB

Get an RF modulator, like this one, and connect it to a coax splitter. The RF modulator will take a composite video signal and analog audio (ie: the typically yellow+red+white RCA connections) and convert it into a signal on channel 3 or 4 (typically).

You could then use whatever device that you can find that generates composite video. If you want to use a USB drive you will need some kind of relatively modem hardware to decode compressed digital video. You could use a Raspberry Pi. Some models have composite out, and for audio connect a 3.5mm to RCA adapter to the headphone jack.

If the signal to the TVs isn't strong enough, you can get powered splitters that will also amplify the signal. I doubt that will be an issue, though, as the RF modulator itself is powered, and so should be generating a pretty strong signal.

I have an old CRT TV that only has an RF input connection. Would I be able to use an HDMI to composite adapter like this and a composite to RF converter like this to connect it to my PC? I understand RF is the worst video connection, but will it look acceptable? Will there be any problems with either 240p or 480i inputs?

Does your TV have these connectors? http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41uZk3rRucL._SY300_.jpg

Also does ur tv have one of these? https://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/graphics/infolib/homelib/h75ohmCoaxialJack.jpg

This is a tool you could use.
http://www.amazon.com/RCA-Compact-RF-Modulator-CRF907R/dp/B0014KKV7W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404246738&sr=8-1&keywords=component+to+coaxial

We used RF modulators back in the day if the tv has a coaxial port this is cheap and highly effective

https://www.amazon.com/RCA-Compact-RF-Modulator-CRF907A/dp/B0014KKV7W/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=Rf+modulator&qid=1565974944&s=gateway&sr=8-4

I'm going to bet someone is just messing around with an RF modulator on a Raspberry Pi or something.

It would explain the crappy analog signal.

Something like this should work well for you:
https://www.amazon.com/RCA-Compact-RF-Modulator-CRF907A/dp/B0014KKV7W/
I have no personal experience with this modulator, but this type of thing is what you want.

You will need a converter box, eg. an HD tuner, a set top ATSC box. Any signals broadcast now are not compatible with an analog TV

Then this, to connect the tuner to the portable TV https://www.amazon.ca/RCA-Compact-RF-Modulator-CCRF907/dp/B0014KKV7W/ref=asc_df_B0014KKV7W/

This: https://www.amazon.com/GANA-Composite-Converter-Supports-DVD-Black/dp/B06W9LQDBB

Plus This: https://www.amazon.com/RCA-Compact-RF-Modulator-CRF907A/dp/B0014KKV7W

And I assume you have a cable to plug into the adapter on the back of that TV? If not, I can try to find one

Thanks! It's just an old Roku connected to an RF modulator and then by coaxial to the set.

Set the TV to VHF Channel 3 or 4 and run whatever you want through a demodulator (just like you used to do with your game consoles). You might need a coax to antenna adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/RCA-Compact-RF-Modulator-CRF907R/dp/B0014KKV7W

https://www.amazon.com/RCA-VH54R-Matching-Transformer-VH54R/dp/B00005T3EY/r

You'd need something like this (https://www.amazon.ca/RCA-Compact-RF-Modulator-CCRF907/dp/B0014KKV7W) to accomplish your goal since professional monitors don't tend to have channels that you can tune to to use RF. Don't expect much in terms of quality out of any choice that you go with since RF is crap.

There is almost no information here. What are you looking for?

If you need Pi to Coax, then you need an rf modulator.

If you need 3.5mm to RCA, then you need a 3.5mm to RCA

Je pense pas l'autre prise sert a brancher une antenne.
Pour être plus précis j'utilise ce modulateur rf acheté en import américain : https://www.amazon.com/RCA-Compact-RF-Modulator-CRF907A/dp/B0014KKV7W

Quick and dirty: :)

You can insert a channel with an RF modulator like this onto channel 3 or 4. Attach the antenna feed and RF modulator into a splitter in reverse.

https://www.amazon.com/RCA-Compact-RF-Modulator-CRF907A/dp/B0014KKV7W/

Now, here's the rub. You need to block the transmission from the RF modulator going to the antenna or else you'll broadcast your channel to the neighborhood. A high-low VHF splitter will take care of this beautifully. Connect the antenna to "HI", the splitter to "LINE", and cap off the "LO"

https://www.amazon.com/FYL-SEPARATOR-JOINER-FREQUENCY-CABLETRONIX/dp/B01F3YAXM2

Now, you will loose about 4db signal strength from your antenna and will no longer receive Lo-VHF channels, but most stations don't use it anyway.


EDIT: Even better. Connect the RF modulator to the "LO", the antenna to "HI", and the TV to "LINE." This will simplify the connection and also minimize signal loss to about 1db.

You'll need an rf modulator, like this one
https://www.amazon.com/RCA-Compact-RF-Modulator-CRF907A/dp/B0014KKV7W

If there's no coax connector on the back, you'll also need an antenna adapter like this one
https://www.amazon.com/RCA-VH54R-Matching-Transformer-VH54R/dp/B00005T3EY/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_23_lp_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=SCJBM46AQKFHHE22KS5W

That tv is really cool, good luck!

This is what I'm using : https://www.amazon.com/RCA-Compact-RF-Modulator-CRF907A/dp/B0014KKV7W

​

It should work, right ? My question is should I solder the coaxial to the UHF or VHF antenna

To make sure I understand here, you have a TV with a broken display, but working speakers, and want to use it for audio. Correct?

What kind of connectors does the TV have? Does it have composite audio? If so, the Pi can output that directly. Its audio isn't great by itself, though, so you'd be better off getting a USB sound box with composite output.

If it has HDMI input, then you can connect that directly.

If it's an old tube TV that only has coax input, then you'll need an RF modulator that takes composite in and coax out. I think this will do.

Ah, gotcha. Took a brief look and thought I found what you were looking for but forgot when I used this back when I was young, it was the other way around (rca to coax). Now I remember the converter is called a "VCR" lol

If you don't know, its called an RF Modulator to convert Composite (yellow/white/red) to coax. Most VCRs can also do the job.

you can also get an analog RF modulator for about 12 bucks on amazon that has r/y/w on one side and a cable connector on the other - so that unused cable jack on the back of your tv can become the input for your old analog game systems - just make sure it is set the the same channel as the adapter (usually channel 3 or 4).
They even bridge the cable input/output so you can use it in between the tv and an analog cable box.

http://www.amazon.com/RCA-Compact-RF-Modulator-CRF907R/dp/B0014KKV7W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1454169587&sr=8-1&keywords=rca+av+modulator

Not sure about DirecTv, but I have Dish Network and did this. Getting an additional box means another fee tacked on and my bill is high enough as it is. Dish boxes (aka Joeys) output HDMI & composite signals simultaneously so in my case, HMDI goes to the "main" tv and the composite output then goes into an inexpensive RF modulator. From that I ran coax to the secondary TV which is tuned to channel 3. We also bought a second RF remote off of Ebay so we can have one in each room. It's worked great this way for several years.

Edit: Missing words.

Some Gamestops will carry them, since they will work with PS3 too. But you're better off getting an RF adapter box at Walmart and just using the composite cables that came with the system with it.

Edit: Something like this one would work.

RCA to RF
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0014KKV7W/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1518826889&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=rca+to+rf&dpPl=1&dpID=410NrfMBJsL&ref=plSrch

Sorry, I meant to post this link:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0014KKV7W/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
Will this connect a composite input to the UHF or VHF terminals on the TV?

My TV/setup is similar: TV -> coax -> RF modulator -> composite -> Wii.

Maybe give this a try. RF modulator + coax cable

For the wall, I'd recommend a brush plate or cable plate.

What I did was get a kitchen knife and cut a small square out of the dry wall behind the monitor and desk. I used this to make it look nicer (https://www.amazon.com/DataComm-45-0001-WH-1-Gang-Recessed-Voltage/dp/B00193U3O0/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1519388733&sr=8-5&keywords=wall+cable&dpID=31zbRYhgfxL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch) after that I just ran the cable through. Took about 15 min to do.

I'd use something like this if I'm understanding correctly:

https://www.amazon.com/DataComm-45-0001-WH-1-Gang-Recessed-Voltage/dp/B00193U3O0/ref=sr_1_3?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1472826412&sr=1-3

There are tons of inexpensive options for running wires in the wall.

I simply tapped off an outlet below my TV to add a recessed outlet directly behind the TV. I then used a couple of these--one behind the TV and one closer to the floor--to run the low voltage cables.

Here are a couple other relatively inexpensive solutions that don't even require you to know how to do any electrical work:

• http://www.amazon.com/Arlington-TVBR2505K-Organizer-Recessed-Solution/dp/B006N2U46O/ref=pd_cp_hi_0
  
  
• http://www.amazon.com/PowerBridge-TSPBIW-6-WH-Solution-In-Wall-Management/dp/B003CJTQ3I/ref=pd_cp_hi_3
  
  

If you already need to call an electrician to run an outlet, just ask them to make another hole for your A/V cables. If you are lucky they might do it for free. Will the cables just need to go from behind the unit down to the shelf that will hold the Apple TV?

I would ask the electrician to cut some extra holes for you, and you could tidy them up with something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/DataComm-45-0001-WH-1-Gang-Recessed-Voltage/dp/B00193U3O0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1474998124&sr=8-3&keywords=1-Gang+Recessed+Low+Voltage+Cable+Plate

You would mount them to something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice%C2%AE-Single-Voltage-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B00HYHEC38/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1474998033&sr=8-2&keywords=1+gang+mounting+bracket

I just got done mounting and installing a bunch of TVs and A/V cables for some of our branch offices, and that is pretty much what we did. The passthrough will easily allow the large tips of the cables through.

Of course you could also use a drywall saw and a cable fisher and do it yourself. If in doubt, call an electrician. Good luck!

> Are wires supposed to run up to the TV from the thing lower down?

Yes
>Should I put in a piece of plastic pipe to make an easy conduit up to the tv now, while I can still get behind there easily?

No need for that.

>What is that wire up top?

As others have said, it looks like speaker wire. Probably don't need it.

I would get one of these for the top orange box., and replace the "speaker" cable with a 10' or 12' cat 5e cable. Plug the cable into the port at the bottom, run it through the wall, and plug it into the TV.

Are you getting all your source material from the network? Do you plan on having cable? Antenna? Xbox? Anything else on this TV? While you're at it, you might want to run some HDMI cables and a COAX cable along with your network cable.

If the property is yours and if you're ok using a saw, you can snake the wires behind the wall and get two of these for the entry and exits.

Ack on the no running high voltage cables inside the wall that aren't properly terminated. Regarding low-voltage, I did consider using something like a 1-Gang Recessed Low Voltage Cable Plate, potentially mounted behind the Dot.

Could run behind the wall since it is low voltage, but it would be ugly at plug height. Something like this is what I’ve done beside the outlets for wall mounted TVs.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00193U3O0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8Av7CbVWA3AQ9

I used a pass through wall plate (I think it's called?). They come in different colours, but here is an example on amazon.com...
https://www.amazon.com/DataComm-45-0001-WH-1-Gang-Recessed-Voltage/dp/B00193U3O0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1492543914&sr=8-2&keywords=pass+through+wall+plate

Hope that helps Mantis4g63 :)

Yes - used this to route in and out:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00193U3O0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And then mounted a long industrial power strip up under the desk.

https://www.amazon.com/Opentron-OT4126-Metal-Protector-Outlet/dp/B00O8NVPBI/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1527186399&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=industrial+power+strip&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00193U3O0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

One common option is something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Datacomm-50-3323-WH-KIT-Panel-Organizer-Solution/dp/B001PB7UVA/

Power, ethernet, video, and any other low voltage wires are passed behind the TV into the wall, and then can come out at floor level behind furniture or similar.

you need something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/Datacomm-50-3323-WH-KIT-Panel-Organizer-Solution/dp/B001PB7UVA/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1523348881&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=tv+mount+wiring+kit

For those who are handy and with products like these, it could be simple and without an electrician:

https://www.amazon.com/PowerBridge-Recessed-Management-PowerConnect-Wall-Mounted/dp/B00GWGZKF6

https://www.amazon.com/Datacomm-50-3323-WH-KIT-Panel-Organizer-Solution/dp/B001PB7UVA/ref=pd_day0_hl_23_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001PB7UVA&pd_rd_r=042b86e4-f3e2-11e8-acef-0dacba850be4&pd_rd_w=8CeM6&pd_rd_wg=6inpi&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=4G8V7RY52GNZJ6D0JTMB&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=4G8V7RY52GNZJ6D0JTMB

​

Here is the one I used.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PB7UVA/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_d0BDCbEZEYRZ0

I'd find a way to conceal the wire and go wired anyways. Wireless is good for phones and that's about it. They make kits to create an in wall conduit to run cables along with power.

[See here](Datacomm 50-3323-WH-KIT Flat Panel TV Cable Organizer Kit with Power Solution - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PB7UVA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_h4cQBb2KZ5705)

Something like this can be used - https://www.amazon.com/Datacomm-50-3323-WH-KIT-Panel-Organizer-Solution/dp/B001PB7UVA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1519927920&sr=8-3&keywords=tv+outlet+recessed+box

I'd second this, but maybe use that hole to your advantage by using it to hide low voltage cabling in the wall. get two birds stoned at once. I used this: hidey hole

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PB7UVA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used this 2 years ago worked out great. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PB7UVA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It looks much cleaner if you use thiskit to run the cables.

They have these kits on Amazon that work really well if you already have a dry wall saw and wire snake. First one took an hour but my upstairs TV only took 30 minutes.

Something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PB7UVA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There are a lot of variations of this thing out there.

I don't have experience installing - we almost went this route, then decided a large enough media console would look better and be more practical than an on- or in-wall solution. But, it's very well rated.

If you do not want an aftermarket radio the cheapest solution would be a FM Modualtor

I have a 2011 Xterra S 4x4 and the standard radio doesn't have an aux input. The optional radio with the 6 CD changer and satellite radio mode has an aux button on the radio and the aux input jack above the cigar lighter on the dash. Your input may be an aftermarket add like this FM modulator device

You can get an antenna bypass FM modulator, it plugs between your FM antenna and the antenna input. This is better than the FM transmitter method, especially if you live in an area with a saturated FM band.

Good example: https://www.amazon.com/iSimple-IS31-Antenna-Modulator-Aftermarket/dp/B002U5XPBE

It doesn't have one. You have 2 options. You can install a new head unit that has aux input and all that other jazz like bluetooth. Or you can install one of these which will add aux through the satellite radio input.

If you are handy with splicing wires I would just do the install yourself. If you have no idea how to splice wires or take a dash apart just look for a shop in your area that does car audio. If you end up finding a friend that knows how to do it, make sure they aren't just connecting wires with electrical tape and putting the radio back in your dash, that is bad news.

edit: Oh yeah and if you just want to cheap out you can get one of those FM transmitters. You just plug it in the cig lighters plug and it has a little transmitter on the wire with aux on the other end. You set the station on the transmitter and your radio to the station you choose (one with no signal/noise). The audio quality is not too great but its a cheap route and no install.

If your prius already has an aux input, then you just need a bluetooth receiver (bluetooth to 3.5mm) and a ground loop isolater if you are getting some feedback (as mentioned in a different comment).

If your prius doesn't have a built in aux port, you can install one via an "FM modulator", and from that you could use a bluetooth receiver and come in under $50. I think they also make some FM modulators with built in bluetooth nowadays. Basically this will work directly with your built in radio and allow you to use your normal steering wheel controls and everything for minimal cost.

If you feel like splurging, you can install a new stereo with apple carplay and android auto which is awesome (I have it in my 2005) but it is much more expensive and also more difficult to install properly.

I installed an FM antenna bypass module to my car's factory radio. You may need to buy additional adapters to make it fit your stereo's antenna. I was in a similar situation as you where my climate control system was a part of the stereo and this seemed to be the most cost effective option.

https://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-KMM-BT322-Player-Bluetooth-sirius/dp/B07CNWRC65

• single DIN, bluetooth and aux in, 80 bucks.
  
  https://www.amazon.com/ACOUSTIK-CP-650-Bluetooth-Receiver-Touchscreen/dp/B0792R4D4N/
  
  $169 gets you the cheapest CarPlay I can find. $252 gets you into JVC and Pioneer brands.
  
  2000 model year is before they did retained accessory power, OnStar and other stuff, so your wiring harness is dead simple and cheap:
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-1858-Radio-Wiring-Harness/dp/B0002BEX8W/ - $6.48 (never cut the factory harness. Always wire the aftermarket radio's harness to a connector that works with the factory.)
  
  and the dash kit to fit either into the space - $15.39
  https://www.amazon.com/Metra-99-4644-Multi-Kit-Shelf-Black/dp/B0007WTFAM/
  
  Add about an hour in the driveway (30 to wire, 30 to install, going slow) and this problem goes away. It's pretty easy. Total:
  
  

• 101.87 for the single-din kenwood, bluetooth and aux-in
  
• 190.87 for the cheapest CarPlay
  
• 273 for Pioneer 1300NEX level CarPlay
  
  The other way to solve this is with a hard-wired FM transmitter, that plugs the FM signal between your antenna and the radio. https://www.amazon.com/iSimple-IS31-Antenna-Modulator-Aftermarket/dp/B002U5XPBE/ - $26.95 and the same 30 minutes in the driveway installing, and you'd have aux-in back. They do make a bluetooth version of this, but some people say the bluetooth one doesn't sound very good, and adds pairing issues.
  
  I've installed CarPlay about 10 times (I keep putting different ones in my car, I've had Kenwood, Alpine, Pioneer primarily. A Pioneer with wireless CarPlay is going in next.) There's no magic to it, and it does make the experience a lot better, for me.

I wired up an FM Modulator so I could get an AUX jack in my old 9-3. Since the head unit is so tightly tied to the car (and the SID and it's all fiber) it's hard to modify it. That was the best solution I could find to make it sorta useable.

My FM modulator was a bit different as it was just a standard small toggle switch, so I used one of the blank covers and drilled and dremeled it and mounted the toggle switch in there.

I recommend this:
https://www.amazon.com/iSimple-IS31-Antenna-Modulator-Aftermarket/dp/B002U5XPBE
It requires you splice into your radio’s power supply and drill a hole in your dash. The end result is really clean and it was exactly what I needed after being frustrated with fm transmitters.

Yes, like this. They also have a Bluetooth one. iSimple IS31 Antenna Bypass FM Modulator for Factory or Aftermarket Car Radios https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002U5XPBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ei.7CbB0AJ060

One more thing. I have an older version of this modulator. https://www.amazon.com/iSimple-IS31-Antenna-Modulator-Aftermarket/dp/B002U5XPBE/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1500437530&sr=1-2&keywords=isimple+fm

You can see that the back of it has a gain adjuster. And the toggle switch is 87.9 and 88.3 fm. It works really well. I use the older ipod 30 pin connector instead of the aux because the previous owner had installed this for me. I then use a 30 pin to aux then an aux switcher to switch between the aux and bluetooth. I can give you a guide to do that later if you like

I've seen these online before but not sure on quality of signal but it piggy backs on your antenna input like a hard wired fm transmitter


http://www.amazon.com/iSimple-IS31-Antenna-Modulator-Aftermarket/dp/B002U5XPBE/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1415212467&sr=1-2&keywords=aux+input+adapter+for+car

I had the same problem but installed this in an afternoon. Works great.

http://www.amazon.com/iSimple-IS31-Antenna-Modulator-Aftermarket/dp/B002U5XPBE/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1415076192&sr=1-1

Install an FM modulator

The difference is that the direct input bypasses your antenna and plays your music on a certain frequency. In an FM transmitter, the transmitters uses the antenna.

In my experience, the sound quality is very excellent.

This isn't very expensive and will give better sound. https://www.amazon.com/iSimple-IS31-Antenna-Modulator-Aftermarket/dp/B002U5XPBE

Saw this on Amazon. I'm no stereo expert but I'd be willing to give you a hand installing it.

This is definitely your best bet if you're intent on keeping that deck. http://www.amazon.com/iSimple-IS31-Antenna-Modulator-Aftermarket/dp/B002U5XPBE

I installed a unit that plugs into the antenna input and overrides the default frequency. It isn't a typical FM modulator because it doesn't transmit to be picked up by the antenna. A switch on the dash turn it on and off so you can still use the FM radio.

I will try to find the make and model when I have a chance.

EDIT: I don't know the exact model I have (at least not without taking my dash apart), but it is similar to this product. Search for "Antenna override aux input" and you will find quite a few.

Something like this might be right up your alley.

Inline FM Modulator

I put this head unit in my accord recently and it's worked excellently. You can also get an antenna intercept like this and route it out the bottom of your dash and save some money. But I'd recommend getting another head unit if you're pulling the dash apart anyway.

Someone told me about this when I asked the same question about my suburban. Haven’t ordered it yet to try but I like the idea

(https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B002U5XPBE/ref=cm_sw_r_fa_awdb_c_Q2FNCbSR43HPF)

It’s an fm transmitter that wires behind your unit into the antenna. I would assume the reception would be superior with this setup as opposed to a cigarette lighter one

These work great. Goes between antenna and radio for the best quality possible.

https://www.amazon.com/iSimple-IS31-Antenna-Modulator-Aftermarket/dp/B002U5XPBE

iSimple IS31 Antenna Bypass FM Modulator for Factory or Aftermarket Car Radios https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002U5XPBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_edu7AbKYF6C96

Here go!

Can't offer any help on what you bought, but can recommend the approach I took to this....

FM Modulator

Pair that with a Bluetooth receiver and you can even have Bluetooth music at the flip of a switch. Have been using it for years, works excellent

Edit:

You'll probably also need this too... look into it... relatively easy install

You could use an in-line FM modulator which would give you an aux in jack, then use the Bluetooth receiver. All pretty easy to hide behind your dash too. Adds to the cost a little, but the end result could be really nice. You may need an adapter for your antenna wire depending on make and model. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002U5XPBE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415558831&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

That's why I love modulators:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002U5XPBE?cache=b6425110cff777384aa511bcfd2a8f13&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1415063127&sr=8-8#ref=mp_s_a_1_8


They get a power and ground, then you unplug the antenna, plug this in, and the antenna into this. Then you tune to a preset, channel, and plug into your new aux jack

Try this if you want to keep the factory head unit. $25 and a bit easier to install.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002U5XPBE/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1520430513&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=iSimple&dpPl=1&dpID=4118aiHATML&ref=plSrch

It's better than a transmitter because it connects directly to the antenna port on the stereo. Might want to remove the deck prior to purchase to see if it has an antenna port.

Try this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002U5XPBE/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1453224342&sr=1-2&pi=SX200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=313AEqbEZJL&ref=plSrch


You connect your antenna to it and then it to the back of your head unit. This will not make your AUX button functional as it works off of a preset FM frequency. The On/Off switch is used to bypass the antenna and make your music clear af as if you used the AUX button. Don't know if this can be wired to the AUX input in your tray but you can always switch that input out for the new one.

Your other option is slightly more expensive and a bit more difficult but will get your AUX button working.http://www.crutchfield.com/p_541ISFD531/PAC-Auxiliary-Input-Adapter-for-Ford.html

https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-301BN-Premium-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B0049S6ZUS/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1484765909&sr=1-5&keywords=hdmi+switch i use this one

You cannot create an HDMI input on your computer without allot of expense and extra processing power - there is also the issue of HDMI protection (HDCP) which will cause some shows/movies not to play at all.

I would suggest an HDMI switch like this: http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-301BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049S6ZUS

...so you can select between your computer and your TV tuner box as you wish.

I've personally used this one for my PS4, a laptop, and a bluray player. https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-301BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049S6ZUS

But if you have money to blow you should definitely just get a $250 receiver.

Here's what I use to switch between my Apple TV and laptop on my projector: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049S6ZUS/

It has a remote.

Edit: Here's the 4k version: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YNM23S8

Kinivo 301BN Premium 3 port High speed HDMI switch with IR wireless remote and AC Power adapter - supports 3D, 1080p by Kinivo http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049S6ZUS/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_djpntb04TG6BP

you need a switch for multiple devices into the xbox hdmi input, not a splitter lol.
http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-301BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049S6ZUS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1395251978&sr=8-2&keywords=kinivo+hdmi+switch

A Denon from last year’s models like the S720W could be had for around that much based on a quick Google search (I converted £200 to ~$270). Since you said “possibly 7.1,” I’m a bit confused. Do you own speakers yet or not? If you don’t, then something like this could tide you over until you buy speakers, and the remainder of your budget can go to a receiver.

Buy yourself Smash for 3DS!! It comes out on Friday (the day the contest ends! IT'S A SIGN!!) and it is going to be fantastic (Source: I've played the demo lots). Smash is addicting fun, and it lets you battle online, so you could even battle against your fellow RAOAers that get it! It's going to keep you entertained for a while, so what's to lost? Treat yourself and get it!

As for me, I would LOVE to receive this HDMI 3-port switch device. I just found out these things exist, and this would make my life insanely easier. I don't have enough HDMI ports on my TV, so I always have to flip it around, unplug, and replug to get things to work. This eliminates that! So, you're buying something that will get constant use and make my life a bit easier! :)

Thanks for the contest! This is awesome of you :) Batman Suit.

Do you think this HDMI spliter would work?
http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-301BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049S6ZUS

A friend of mine has it, I was gonna borrow it but he's already got it setup.

I use this switch for my Switch and SNES Classic and have had no problems at all the few months I've had it.

http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-301BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049S6ZUS/ref=sr_1_6?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1416414840&sr=1-6&keywords=hdmi+splitter here ya go

You can use an HDMI Switcher and plug 3 devices into that, and then attach that to the HDMI Passthrough. You just use the remote that normally comes with whichever switcher you get to switch the devices on the unit itself.

Absolutely, here it is.

[The one I owned before getting a new TV with enough inputs](Kinivo 301BN Premium 3 Port High Speed HDMI Switch With IR Wireless Remote And AC Power Adapter - Supports 3D, 1080p https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049S6ZUS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_EUwMBbBHQ0BJQ)

I picked up this one a little while ago. Works great.

http://www.amazon.ca/Kinivo-301BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049S6ZUS

Here's a good, cheap switch that I like:
http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-301BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049S6ZUS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1419781384&sr=8-2&keywords=kinivo+hdmi

I use it to switch between all modern game consoles that currently live in my PC setup. Has been working great, had it for about a year or so. I've had other cheap china switches and my PS3 simply wouldn't play nice with those.
Edit: Didn't see you needed two outputs. I've got my hooked up to a cheap powered HDMI splitter, so there's one solution.

I have no issues with my switch (I split a WiiU and the XBONE), but before I bought it I read a few reviews... and found that this one was specifically mentioned as being one of the few that worked completely fine with both PS4 and XBONE. Have had no issues at all with it.

Kinivo Switch: http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-301BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049S6ZUS

I've got this one from Kinivo and have had it for well over a year.. Works flawlessly and changes inputs automatically depending on what device you power on.

http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-301BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049S6ZUS/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1450803354&sr=1-2&keywords=kinivo+hdmi+splitter

I have been using this switch for over a year with no problems although you'd have to find a different solution for your speakers:
http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-301BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049S6ZUS/ref=sr_1_6?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1451028075&sr=1-6&keywords=HDMI+switch

You don't want a splitter unless you want to have Destiny on both screens as the same time. If you want to choose which screen will display the image you need a switch/matrix that does 2in/1out or something like that. I've got a Rocketfish HDMI switch from Best Buy that I use and I haven't expereinced any lag that I'm aware of. But I'm using a pc monitor. Something like this should work for you.

What you need is a switcher, not a splitter.
There are different types, some need power, other not.
Review these 2
http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-301BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049S6ZUS/ref=sr_1_4?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1452943155&sr=1-4&keywords=hdmi+switcher

http://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD1831-3-Port-Switch-Pigtail/dp/B008GVOVK0/ref=sr_1_5?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1452943155&sr=1-5&keywords=hdmi+switcher

• Receiver --> TV Input
  
• TV Optical --> Receiver Input
  
• PS4 --> Receiver In
  
• PS3 --> Receiver In
  
• Chromecast --> TV
  
• TV Box --> TV
  
  That's one possible setup. It depends on how often you use each of these. Your other option is to get an HDMI switcher
  
  Given the price of a switcher, I'd say get one and do everything via HDMI
  

Agreed, but this one is rated higher with more reviews Link

This is what I have
I plug in my ps3 ps4 and wiiu into that. I can still capture on the wiiu, Have not tested on the ps4 but it should work the same.

I use this one.. It works great, and it switches automatically depending on what device you turn on.

First of all your link is to rental property in Coral Gables so you might wanna check on that ;-)

I'm using this HDMI switch:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049S6ZUS/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have my Apple TV and my DirecTV box going into it then the output going to the XB1 and it works flawlessly. Zero problems, 100% satisfied.

Do you want an HDMI splitter or switch ? Because they're a bit different, anyways I use this HDMI switch and its perfect http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0049S6ZUS/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?qid=1457211463&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=kinivo&dpPl=1&dpID=31HQXq0wQML&ref=plSrch

I dont have my PS4 connected yet. I want to use my PC Monitor as Display instead, but the monitor only has 1 HDMI Input port, which my PC is using. So i want to buy a HDMI Splitter , maybe this one. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0049S6ZUS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1417056453&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

So that I can have both my PC and my PS4 plugged to the same Monitor.

Will that work?

This is correct. You need a splitter that has power. I read multiple reviews and have discovered this.

i use this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049S6ZUS/

I used this one for my Wii U and PS4 and it worked fine.

Here's a 3-port option:

>Kinivo 301BN Premium 3 port High speed HDMI switch with IR wireless remote and AC Power adapter - supports 3D, 1080p

>Link: http://amzn.com/B0049S6ZUS

I have the 5-port version and it works perfectly. It auto-detects what is powered on most recently and switches to that input. If there is a problem, you can press a button on the switch or on the remote.

https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y

I have this one: link.

Works great with my harmony hub, after using it for a while and being impressed with it I even bought the 3 port version (also on amazon) for a different room.

From experience, cheaping out on any sort of video switch or splitter will introduce delay, buggy images and some even don't work at all. Most of the good ones will require power to function properly, so make sure you have an outlet nearby. This one appears to be pretty popular and it has lots of fancy features. There are cheaper ones, but make sure you buy one with lots of reviews.

A adapter, no, the TV will only recognize one input, it wouldn't know what to do with multiple sources in 1 input.

There are switches tho that actually act as a selector from multiple sources. Like this one.

That sounds like a convoluted set up.

I just have all of my systems plugged into one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1396289933&sr=8-2&keywords=hdmi+switch

That is plugged into my TV, and the TV is plugged into the sound bar via optical audio.

I would say try taking your sound bar out of the equation for video as your first step for troubleshooting this issue.

so you want them all plugged into both monitors? or will the tv hold some and the monitor hold the others?

either way, an hdmi switch like this would hlep

• Your TV works fine with other devices (PS3,laptop, etc)
  
• Your WiiU works fine on other TVs
  
• Your WiiU does not work correctly on ANY port of this one particular TV
  
  Do you have a HDMI switch you could put between the WiiU and the TV (similar to this: LINK)? It may straighten out the communication between the WiiU and the TV. Otherwise, since no other device connected to this TV shows those symptoms, it looks like this particular TV just won't connect correctly to the WiiU. As I said before, I have seen where some TVs just won't connect to some devices.

I have used that one in the past. Although it's more expensive, I prefer this 5 port one (it comes with a remote too) https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1467222331&sr=1-8&keywords=hdmi+switch There's also a cheaper 3 port one as well

Depending on the tv you might have hdmi output on that. You can connect it to the other tv. The only oher options is:

Inputs -> HDMI Switch -> to hdmi splitter -> two tv's.

This way you can switch inputs and still split the two screens. The easiest solutions would be to adjust his prescription or get him glasses.

There's no one device I can think of that would do that. What you could do is get a multi-port HDMI switch like this and use a splitter for the output. It would be outputting to both the TV and projector at the same time, but you could just have the device not currently in use turned off.

https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y

Either this or its 3-port little brother

Edit: Sorry, just re-read that you need an audio out.

I use his one. Kinivo 501BN Premium 5 port High speed HDMI switch with IR wireless remote and AC Power adapter - supports 3D, 1080p https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HXWhzb3BMSGVN

I use this for my AV solution. For HDMI OP uses two of these, I also have one of those and it works great.

Edit: The AV switch looks weird in the Amazon picture, but the actual unit is buttons on front, ports in back. The picture is of two of them stacked on top of each other.

The Chromecast is not connected to the TV directly. It's on a Kinivo switch. Chromecast disappears on my available devices once the TV is off. This is the Kinivo Switch I have https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487684527&sr=8-1&keywords=Kinivo+Switch

Guessing your monitor only has one HDMI port?

If so why not buy a HDMI switcher, something like this maybe?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1413084811&sr=8-3&keywords=hdmi+switcher

http://www.amazon.co.uk/TeckNet%C2%AE-Port-Auto-Switch-Remote/dp/B005SP6ARO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1413084811&sr=8-5&keywords=hdmi+switcher

I use this one with no noticeable lag: https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y

I have this HDMI switch with remote - my tv only has 2 HDMI plugs.

What you really want is this right here.

I use this one and have been pretty satisfied. My Fire Stick caused some conflict with the auto-switch function, so I had to plug that directly into the TV.

https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1538756714&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=kinivo+HDMI+5&dpPl=1&dpID=41ZRavbicFL&ref=plSrch

I know it can be tempting, but you should never buy a console solely because of the hardware. Hardware is no good if it doesn't play the games you want to play. Crash Bandicoot: N-Sane Trilogy and the upcoming Final Fantasy 7 remake are both PS4 exclusives. And though nothing has been officially stated, many people assume a Spyro remaster is coming next, especially in the wake of Crash Bandicoot's critical reception and sales numbers.

The idea that PS5 will feature backwards compatibility is likewise only a rumor, however, it's backed by logical evidence. But it's worth keeping in mind that Sony has a business interest in NOT offering backwards compatibility, so that they can more easily sell Playstation Now subscriptions, classic digital titles (ala Nintendo's virtual console), and remastered classics. (In other words, just because they can, doesn't mean they will.) And if Sony does ultimately offer b/c with PS5 and copies Microsoft's approach to the tiniest detail, then the PS5 won't have b/c at launch but will have it patched in later, and even then only for the most popular titles. I still have my Xbox 360 hooked up because my Xbox One isn't a 100% replacement for it, and it probably never will be. So buying any console with backwards compatibility in mind is something of a crapshoot.

It might be worth mentioning that you do have options besides Playstation and Xbox. Nintendo Switch has been very popular since it launched in March, and remains perpetually sold out. To get one at this point in time, you'd either have to buy one from an eBay scalper or watch stock trackers carefully and be in the right place at the right moment. But it doesn't take advantage of 4K, and in what could be either a pro or a con depending on your mindset, offers less crossover with the catalog of games you already have access to on PC. However, Nintendo does have a stellar reputation for offering approachable games and single-system multiplayer, and is often thought of as a good choice for girlfriend gaming. Your other option is to run an extra video cable from your PC to your TV if your hardware supports it, and buy some wireless controllers. (I recommend wireless Xbox One controllers, or wireless Xbox 360 controllers if you're running Windows 7.) Then you can just play PC games on your couch, although it won't be quite as simple to start and switch between games, which might not sit well with your g/f.

Connecting multiple consoles to your TV is not particularly menacing, unless you just don't have the physical space for it. If you have a 4K set you probably have enough spare HDMI ports, and if not you can get an HDMI switch to expand the number of available ports, along with a power strip or two if need be. I have 6 consoles hooked up to my 4K flatscreen — PS4, PS3, Xbox One, Xbox 360, Nintendo Switch and Nintendo Wii U. That's why I don't worry about backwards compatibility.

You have no idea what you’re talking. Switches and hubs are old, commonplace technology. I’ve been using this one for years without issue. Everything dx20 said is made up.

I use the Kinivo 501BN due to many HDMI devices and not enough HDMI ports. A rock solid product showing flawless execution with my PS4, Switch and many other electronics. No lag or loss in video and audio. There is a cheaper 3-port if that fits your need and budget.

I'm having the same issue with my main TV in the living room. Only has 2 HDMI ports but I regularly use the Xbox One, PS4, and Nintendo Switch on it, so I've been manually unplugging the HDMI from the PS4 and plugging into the Switch.

Also on that TV is my PS3 and Wii U, but the hassle of changing cables means I just don't use them.

These 2 HDMI switches were recommended to me:
https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y
https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD1831-3-Port-Switch-Pigtail/dp/B008GVOVK0?th=1

Sounds like you're looking for an HDMI switch. They exist, but you'll still need to use the switch to decide which input should be passed through to the TV as needed.

A rather fancy switch

Less fancy switch

You could use something like this, just a simple HDMI switch.

Don't know if this is the right place to post.

• Looking to replace my wireless router Netgear WGR614v10 with something that has good range, is reliable and doesn't disconnect, and can handle 2 smart phones, a PS4, a Smart TV, a Chromebook, iPad, and 2 PCs. Really, I think anything will be an upgrade from this router that we have had for 10 years or so. I HAVE to use a powerline adapter in my room because I don't have any ethernet ports, but I experience drops frequently. Budget is no more than $100. How is the Nighthawk AC1750 or AC1900?
  
  
• If I want to connect my future GPU (probably a GTX 1070) to 3 monitors, how would I go about doing that? I see that some have 2 HDMI ports and 2 display ports but I don't know the first thing about display port. Should I look into a card with 3 HDMI ports?
  
  
• I want to connect my PS4 to one of the monitors, but the monitors only have one HDMI port (and a VGA and DVI port). Do I just need to buy a switch? I'm not against buying at least one new monitor that has multiple HDMi ports. If that's the case, can you recommend me a better 1080p 24 inch monitor?

You could buy these two and use them, the only problem you would come across really would be the controller itself staying connected. However windows 10 would be more realistic over longer distances.

http://www.amazon.com/Nyrius-Transmitter-Streaming-Satellite-NAVS500/dp/B005H3AU1Y/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1452908420&sr=1-6&keywords=hdmi+wireless

And

http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1452908472&sr=1-2&keywords=hdmi+hub

I use a switch box, one for composite/s-video systems, and one for HDMI systems. But I have a question now looking at this. I assume you can leave all the consoles hooked up? You don't need to unplug one console to use another? If so, what would happen if you turn two or more consoles on at the same time? I assume nothing.

Really didn't know these existed or even thought of something like this when I bought the switch box. If you do have to change over when using different consoles I'd probably still stay with the switch box. Constantly unplugging and plugging probably isn't good for the inputs on the consoles after many years of use.

Edit: I just noticed the composite switch box I use is no longer made, and the $120 price tag is incredibly more expensive now. I bought it for under $40 CDN in early 2014. This is the one I'd probably buy now and looks pretty similar. I actually like this one better, as it has 8 outputs instead of 6. Doesn't have S-Video which kinda sucks though. All 8 + Input is on the back, where mine the 6th output is on the front. Making cable management look less clean on the one I have.

Kinivo makes a fantastic one. http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1451911110&sr=8-2&keywords=Kinivo

Great hdmi switcher : http://smile.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_7?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1451589738&sr=1-7&keywords=hdmi+switch

I have 2 of them and have zero complaints.

The one I have is called KINIVO 501BN. Ive had it for about 5 years or more now. Here is a link to the same model I have, although mine has silver around the edge instead of white for some reason.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506449004&sr=8-1&keywords=kinivo+hdmi

An HDMI switch will only let you select 1 HDMI from (however many switch supports). The receiver would also be your sound system amplifier.

So something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1376704148&sr=8-2&keywords=hdmi+switch

(Not one I own, just the first 5 port one I saw.)

For least headache, make sure it supports HDCP.

The one I use has 5 inputs to 1 output. Link.

I'm actually looking to get a second one if I ever by another dock so I can have one hooked up to my living room tv. I've owned it for 2-3 years now though and its been great. If you change input it can detect the power and automatically switch over to the input that just got powered on so you don't need to use the remote unless you want to.

I have it working with this just fine:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049SCB2Y/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

No problems to report. Also I have not done any sort of tweaking or anything to the Retropie regarding HDMI settings. Just worked for me.

This works for my PS4, laptop, roku, and chromecast. I don't have a PS3 but I imagine it would work.

This is the on I use, although it has a remote I've never had to use it as the switch recognizes which port is being used and changes accordingly. I'm sure there are other higher priced units out there, bit this one had good reviews and I have no complaints. Since I don't yet have a 4k tv or a 4k console I have no need for a 4k capable switch.



https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0049SCB2Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1509915684&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=kinivo+hdmi+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=41F3h7s806L&ref=plSrch

I have this HDMI switch https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B0049SCB2Y/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It has 5 inputs and auto switches when it detects a new input

If that's a real concern, I can't recommended this enough: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0049SCB2Y

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0049SCB2Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_2/146-5724086-0302219?ie=UTF8&qid=1500855975&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=auto+sensing+hdmi+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=41F3h7s806L&ref=plSrch

This says it has auto sense and a remote.

Generally it is either one or the other tho.

So I had my NES Classic working fine through an old HDMI Switch (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049SCB2Y/), but I am in the process of upgrading to 4K and got a new 4K switch (and receiver) (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WV5YJ6H).

Everything works in the new 4K Switch - except the NES Classic. I get audio but no video. Hell, even my RetroPie works (Yeah I have a RetroPie and an NES Classic). It's so weird. Ah well,I can just hook it directly to my TV I guess. Still weird.

I bought this one for my dad. He seems to like it. There are models by this manufacturer with fewer HDMI ports for less money, but some of the reviews for those models concerned me. My dad has been using it since Christmas of 2014.

I know it's been a few days since you posted this, but I have a question maybe you can answer. What is a good HDMI switcher? I had one from Amazon a while back that crapped out on me pretty fast, and I've been hesitant to get a new one.

Edit: This is the one I had.

You might be interested in an HDMI switch.

You want this or use it as an excuse to get a decent sound system. A receiver will have many inputs and will let you switch source.

Suggestion: If you want to bypass the need for a switcher, you could use a mini-DP cable for the Vive, and continue using an HDMI cable for the Rift - that'll lessen the possibility for annoying HDCP checks, anyway.

If that's not good, I have to switcher suggestions, which I use in my console capture setup:

Solid, with an audio stripper: LINK

Just as reliable, better price point: LINK

Both support and include IR remotes.

Ah, thank you for clarifying that for me. That’s just what I need. I think I’ll get this one Fosmon HD1832 Intelligent 5x1 5-Port HDMI Switch/Switcher with IR Remote and 1.5 Meter USB Power Cable (Supports 3D) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008D6YZXG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3iguDbKH5Z750

I use Fosmon HD1832 Intelligent 5-Port HDMI Switch Splitter with IR Remote and AC Adapter Supports 3D, 5 In 1 Out Switcher - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008D6YZXG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gQCeAbNFZMX5Z

This one right here https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 along with a powered switcher https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD1832-Intelligent-Adapter-Supports/dp/B008D6YZXG/ is what I use , the splitter removes the hdcp signal is why I use it with my PS4

To get audio off the Surface:

a) The Surface itself and the dock have 3.5 mm analog stereo audio outputs. That can connect via a 3.5 mm to RCA cable to an AVR: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8KO2/

b) The DisplayPort outputs contain digital audio signals that can be pulled off a display that passes digital audio through to an S/PDIF output, or analog RCA outputs. There are also HDMI audio DACs if your displays do not have audio passthrough.

c) USB audio DAC.

To get video and audio from your AVR to your displays, connect the second HDMI or DisplayPort or DVI input on the display to the HDMI using the correct combination of cables and socket adapters. If your displays only have one digital input, you'll need some kind of source selector: https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD1832-Intelligent-Adapter-Supports/dp/B008D6YZXG/

You can't connect them both at the same time.

You could get the cable I mentioned above and this cable and then you'd be able to swap the two at the HDMI input.

Edit: If you don't want to swap cables around, you can put something like this in there to switch HDMI inputs

I use this one from Amazon. Been about two years and no issues. Only 3 inputs but that was good enough for me. Not remote controlled but I'm a cheap ass and only tend to switch inputs before using a device so I'm already up to select an input.

This could be something you're looking for!

Right now the wii u is plugged to input 3, I think. Never had a problem with it. My old switcher had snow problems after a power surge. Now everything is in a couple UPS Battery backups.


I'm using this switcher.

Absolutely.

For your controller needs, if you want to use a DualShock4, DS3, Wii U Pro Controller or WiiMote, all you need is a mini Bluetooth dongle and a driver such as DS4Windows (google "[controller] driver windows"). With the proper driver they should be supported under most games, but they might require a button mapping tool to work with some stuff (we can help you with that).

If you want to go the easy route and have a controller supported by most games with no driver configuration as soon as you plug it in, an Xbone controller is your choice. However, it will require a special M$ dongle to work wirelessly, and be warned that this dongle only works under Windows 10. Alternately, if you can live with some inferior design features, you can get a 360 controller (which still works with nearly all controller games) and its corresponding dongle, which has the added benefit of working with all Windows's back to XP. However, be aware that both of these controllers require AA batteries rather than the rechargeable packs found in DualShock/Nintendo. You can buy a rechargeable pack for Xbox controllers but it obviously costs extra.

All of the aforementioned controllers will also work over USB with any operating system.

Now to the second part of your question. I assume that you mean you want to play on your TV–this can be accomplished one of two ways and is easy to setup. The first and most obvious way is to simply keep your PC in your entertainment center and hook it to your TV over HDMI, in much the same way that you would your PS4. Steam's Big Picture mode tries to emulate the homescreen of a console to make controller navigation easier, and does a pretty good job of it. Coming from the PS4 interface I'm sure you'll feel right at home–but you do still need a KB+mouse to get in Big Picture from a cold PC startup. This shouldn't be an issue as there are many cheap wireless keyboards with inbuilt trackpads on offer.

The second way is to use a Steam Link. This is a very handy little set-top box that will stream video input over the internet from a PC in the house–if you've ever heard of the PlayStation TV, this is similar. In order to use the Link you must have fast (at least 10mbps; check using speedtest.net) Ethernet on both ends (your PC and the Link) and a controller that connects over USB (either thru a USB cable or a USB wireless receiver. The Xbox receivers mentioned in a previous paragraph currently don't work with the Link but Valve says they are looking into it). It's very simple to setup–hook the Link to internet, plug in your controller and HDMI cable for TV connection, and pair it with your PC. Then you'll have total access to all your controller-supported PC games from the couch, with no loss of graphics.

Also, as a PC gamer, I have a word for you–there are some games that do play better with KB+M, especially shooters. Trust me, once you try something like Call of Duty with a mouse, you will never be able to go back to aiming with controller sticks. If you want this benefit but still find KB+M uncomfortable, there is the Steam Controller which features a more accurate trackpad in place of the right stick, and will work with most of the games that an Xbox controller works with.

One final word. If you are actually, legitimately serious about getting into PC gaming–please for the LOVE OF GOD do not buy a pre-built one. BUILD. YOUR. OWN. Seriously, if you are looking to surpass consoles and get value for money, I CANNOT stress this enough. Although it may seem daunting at first it's really little more than high-tech LEGOs–/r/BuildaPCforMe will furnish you with a parts list so you don't have to bother with that, and then the build will take two hours tops (even if you're inexperienced). There are tons of great videos on YouTube that will show you how–this is my personal fave, although I do advise you not to use any of those parts since that vid is considerably old.

If you have any questions feel free to reply to this and I can help you out.

no need to move the pc.
https://www.amazon.com/Steam-Link-Pc/dp/B016XBGWAQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1505514230&sr=1-2&keywords=steam+link

It is on sale at Amazon.ca now for $26. A little more expansive but still good deal and you don't have to go to a store.

https://www.amazon.ca/Valve-Steam-Link-Windows-Linux/dp/B016XBGWAQ

> Also, link broadcasts anything on the screen, so it works flawlessly with non-steam games.

Yes, all sorts of controllers. On sale for $19.99 right now: https://www.amazon.com/Steam-Link/dp/B016XBGWAQ/

Or this sir!

[amazon link](Steam Link https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016XBGWAQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5NOoyb7E18CVR)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016XBGWAQ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_5NOoyb7E18CVR

Awesome find. I used this and applied it towards the Steam Link sale that was posted earlier.

I would assume until cyber monday--if you buy it from amazon, you can always return it.

I also got confirmation that the only two items I wanted were both disqualified for eligibility, which is bullshit. The promotional terms state video games are ineligible, but it's actually ANY ITEM LISTED IN A VIDEO GAME CATEGORY.
_


Initial Question: Inquiring about the 'BIGTHANKS' promotional code item eligibility.
>03:13 PM PST Pratik(Amazon): Hello, my name is Pratik. I'm here to help you today. Thank you for being a Prime member. NIce to meet you!

__

>03:13 PM PST Me: Hello
>03:14 PM PST Me: I noticed that today, there is a promotional code BIGTHANKS that should remove $8.62 from a $50+ order, however it does not seem to work on the items I am attempting to buy?



>03:14 PM PST Pratik: For the promotions all the items should be sold by Amazon. Here are the terms and conditions of the promotion :

>https://www.amazon.com/b/?node=15240005011&pf_rd_p=0033c189-b389-4340-a57b-3c3f1cb0d54d&pf_rd_r=QY61TM0PMM071R7W6XS0



>03:14 PM PST Me: Both of these items are sold by Amazon.com LLC



>03:15 PM PST Pratik: May I know if they are video games?




>03:15 PM PST Me: They are not video games - one is a controller and the other a Steam Link

>03:16 PM PST Me: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016XBGWAQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

>https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GW3H3U8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER




>03:16 PM PST Pratik: Thank you for the link. I am sorry to say that Offer does not apply to digital content, video games, or Amazon Gift Cards.

>Please read our terms and conditions and you will be able to see it.

>https://www.amazon.com/b/?node=15240005011&pf_rd_p=0033c189-b389-4340-a57b-3c3f1cb0d54d&pf_rd_r=QY61TM0PMM071R7W6XS0




>03:16 PM PST Me: But these items do not qualify under those categories




>03:17 PM PST Pratik: The steam link comes underthe digital content. Please read the terms and conditions :
>https://www.amazon.com/b/?node=15240005011&pf_rd_p=0033c189-b389-4340-a57b-3c3f1cb0d54d&pf_rd_r=QY61TM0PMM071R7W6XS0




>03:18 PM PST Me: I have read the terms and conditions, however the steam link is NOT a digital item and neither of these two physical items are VIDEO GAMES. As such, why are they not eligible for the promo code to be applied?




>03:20 PM PST Pratik: Please check the items one more time. The items comes under the video games category.




>03:21 PM PST Me: They may be in the video game category, however they are not themselves video games. The terms and conditions specifically says "video games" no?

____


>03:21 PM PST Pratik: Please try to understand that if the items comes under the Video games category then the promotion will not be applied.

I stand corrected on the $25 price tag - I just saw a deal for the Steam Link for $15 on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016XBGWAQ/