(Part 2) Best electrical distribution products according to redditors
We found 3,542 Reddit comments discussing the best electrical distribution products. We ranked the 797 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
Sure! We have two switches, an AV(?) switch for NES through Gamecube like this one (We bought ours at Fry's) and an HDMI switch off Amazon, although you can get a better deal if you don't care about having a wireless controller to switch between different inputs.
(Is AV = Composite = RCA? They're all Red-White-Yellow, right? lol)
All 16 consoles are set up to work with just a few button presses. As well as my PC which used this to switch between my monitor and the TV. I use this component switch, this HDMI switch, and this S-Video switch.
when i got the new GPU i replaced everything in the signal chain with amazon basics high speed HDMI/displayport cables and this 4k60 switch
the ONLY configuration that worked is what i am currently running.
GameCube and Game Boy Player is the standard setup. The startup disc for the Game Boy Player can be a bit pricey these days, but you can softmod the GameCube and use the free Game Boy Interface software as an alternative.
From there, you can get an HDMI adapter and HDMI capture card (lots of those to choose from). Or if you need to save some money, a good S-Video capture device like the IO Data GV-USB2, an S-Video splitter, and a GameCube S-Video cable will still get you a pretty decent-looking capture. Either way, set it up in OBS and you're good to go.
I'd suggest also getting an SNES controller adapter. I find it way nicer than using the GBA as a controller. There's also one for Wii Classic Controllers if you prefer.
Get a GV-USB2 capture card! It's basically the go-to for standard definition console gaming.
He'll also need a video/audio splitter. I use this one and it works wonderfully. You'll need an extra set of composite cables as well. (That's just an example. Get whatever will ship on time for you)
If he wants to stream on twitch, consider getting him a webcam and mic. Let me know what your budget is and I can recommend some options for you.
There are so much better TVs than The Frame and we all would heavily advise you that you look elsewhere. Build a custom frame around the TV yourself to keep the frame aesthetic if you have to, that’s what we recommend. If you still want that Frame though then that’s your call.
Also, your goal is zero wires but you will have wires. That Samsung One Connect wire cannot be ran through the wall since it was not legally rated to be in a wall. So you’ll be having a visible wire from your connect box In your shelf to your TV whether you like it or not. Sorry.
Bookshelf speakers are gonna look amazing aesthetically. Unless you have a really big room room you don’t need towers at all since it will be overkill. Also you’re already aware that no one is going to take a music room with a soundbar setup seriously, so that’s good.
Also, as far as your amp goes, how about a Sonos Amp with an adaptor to connect to the HDMI? Like this? it has an optical port as well as an aux port. may not be two six ports but I’m still looking. Also with that amp you get the benefit that you would get with a Sonos system with your bookshelf speakers. Idk, don’t know much about 2.1 amps tbh.
Also, pics when you’re done. I would love to see that room in its final form.
No it was actually super simple, I cannibalized a volume knob off Amazon by removing the housing, and when the I realized the PCB inside was pretty small, I decided to drill a hole in the front panel that would fit the knob and used a DIY USB Micro -> USB 2.0 Header cable to connect it to the PC.
This is the knob:
https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Lossless-Computer-Controller-Adjuster/dp/B01MV411BR/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1537240037&sr=8-5&keywords=volume+knob
Console goes into the boy, cable one goes to the CRT, cable two goes to the capture card.
Stream with OBS. It's a shining beacon of free software that everybody from the nooberest of noobs to the biggest of names all use.
There's a lot out there now as far as switches. I personally use this one
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06WP755QH/ref=ox_sc_act_image_5?smid=A28128AMZ00PEQ&psc=1#
But the most important thing is to make sure you have hdmi 2.0 cables that are no longer than 1.5 meters(although 1 meter is better). I had blackouts occasionally until I shortened my cables.
First hit on Google: https://www.amazon.com/BG-520-splitter-switcher-XBOX360-Blu-ray/dp/B0089DSLMY
Guessing there are many more like it.
No it isn't. If you are using a low end consumer grade controller with RCA outputs going to powered speakers just put a switchbox inbetween and hook your phone up. One flick of the switch and it changes the input to the phone:
http://www.amazon.com/3-Way-Switch-Selector-Splitter-XBOX360/dp/B004T8KZCM
just ignore the yellow / video cable input.
Zettaguard 4K x 2K 4 Port 4 x 1 HDMI Switch with PIP and IR Wireless Remote Control, HDMI Switcher Hub Port Switches (ZW410) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BV1XBIY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uzqDDbZ2YSW26
Try an HDMI Switch. You can plug all of your sources into it and use the remote to switch between PS4, Xbox, PC Zettaguard 4K x 2K 4 Port 4 x 1 HDMI Switch with PIP and IR Wireless Remote Control, HDMI Switcher Hub Port Switches (ZW410) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BV1XBIY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GMU9AbKTJTHCK
If you want to go the route of buying a playbar/base, you can just running all of your devices in to an hdmi switch and then one hdmi to the projector itself.
As others have helped me with my set up, you can buy hdmi switches that have an audio extractor built in to them. In this case, you don't even need to run the optical cable to the projector, rather, keep everything down below and just have the one hdmi (out) from the switch to your projector.
Here is what I use: Hdmi switch with extractor.
The correct answer is buy an AV receiver, but if you're not willing to do that you could try an HDMI audio splitter that outputs to RCA and 3.5mm.
I found these magnetic USB cables quite handy for charging the controllers while minimizing the risk of bending the micro USB ports.
Since I also have an Oculus, I bought this HDMI switch so that I don't ever have to unplug and re-plug in the cables (which damaged them in the past, which was hell). If you are going this route, I might next time consider a KVM switch that also switches the USB, though I do not have one to recommend.
Does it need to be an actual wheel? Most keyboards have volume controls, but not necessarily a wheel. A wheel really limits your options. Corsair, Logitech, Das have some keyboards with a volume wheel, but I don’t think there are any TKL options. If you really want a wheel, you can get something like this then get a TKL RGB keyboard.
http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-28750-Composite-Selector/dp/B0032ANC8M?ie=UTF8&keywords=s%20video%20switch&qid=1463513498&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
i use this one, it works fine and i haven't had any issues with it. also, your SNES will have the most improvement over your other consoles, like a real noticeable difference. the N64 and Gamecube will have slightly better resolutions, but mostly just better colors.
It is better to use a HDMI Switcher like this. Switching between multiple devices may harm your HDMI cable. If you're not switching too often then it's alright to swap cable.
Oh, I get it. This would be a much cheaper option than that sound card: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G188Z7A/
Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1509721642&sr=8-3&keywords=audio+switch&dpID=31Rn3KyybiL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-A1602-Splitter-Connecting-Devices/dp/B00HNCPR92/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1509721642&sr=8-7&keywords=audio+switch&dpID=519o-1mxIFL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
Use one of these. Run it backwards ;)
Rca splitters or selectors. Super cheap ones on Amazon, or shell out a bit more for a nicer one.
Like this: Hosa YRA-104 RCA to Dual RCAF Y-Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O4Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JOz7xbWBZ5BPZ
Or: Fosmon Technology 3-Way Audio / Video RCA Switch Selector / Splitter Box & AV Patch Cable for Connecting 3 RCA Output Devices to Your TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HNCPR92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yPz7xbR6BCQ6B
Nicer: Four Input Source Tabletop Control Switch Box Internal Pc Board Design Metal Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0056EK7Q2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-Qz7xbAK8CJFZ
Done new afraid to get one made for AV, there's no difference. You just won't use the video rca jack.
I use this one for one ps4 pro and switch between a 55” q7 qled and a 32” 720p lg led and can vouch that there is no loss in sound or video quality. It works with either as if the switch isnt there.
You are looking for a DisplayPort switch.
https://www.amazon.com/LINDY-Port-4K-DisplayPort-Switch/dp/B00ZK2S71W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538519894&sr=8-3&keywords=displayport+switch
The GV-USB2 is probably one of the best cheap cards out there. If you want an example of the quality, here's a recording from back when I was using it. I'm pretty sure it can look even better, as I was only using the RCA cables, and not the S-Video input. Just make sure you get a powered splitter like this or this (for S-video) so you can send the signal to both the TV and the recording device without lag.
Just make sure you set the device up properly and use some kind of deinterlacing. For ease of use I'd just recommend using the built in de-interlacing options in OBS.
Edit: If you're short on money and don't want to spend extra on a splitter for live capture, then you can just save your match replays using Legacy TE, and then record them through the recording device using your computer screen to navigate the menus. This requires extra work though, and it can be easy to forget to save your replays. I'd just recommend getting the capture device and the splitter so you can record it all in one go.
Just get something like this for your monitor. Mine has only one HDMI input as well so I use a switch to connect multiple devices.
EDIT: I just chose a random switch to link. This one in particular only supports 4K @30Hz, so do some research if that's not good enough for your PC etc.
I love everyone mentioning the card hehe, thanks! :) So you're saying just pop in a USB keyboard for starters and that's it?
Yeah I was wondering about a fan. I'm being told by a majority a heatsink will be fine, I don't really sit for extended gaming periods, not with a toddler and newborn lol, so I figured for now, this case/heatsink will do until my needs change
I planned to get this to help with my connections to the TV. Wondering if anyone else has tried it.
There's lots of different routes to get to good audio. Depends on what you want.
The JBL LSR 305 suggestion will sound great, and you can probably add a sub to it later to get even more powerful and deeper bass. But it's somewhat limiting in that there's not much that can be upgraded.
If you'd like to roll your own, a popular and great sounding kit are the Overnight Sensations at parts-express. More info on reddit here.
And then pick up a compact amp like the SMSL SA60, (or the older SMSL SA50) and it's a great little system, and you get to do some modest woodwork (no sawing), but also some light soldering, too.
You can add Bluetooth connectivity to it by selecting an amp that takes BT, or by getting a little device like this Avantree (which I have, and like a lot). Be sure to get something that supports aptX (some Android phones and desktops) and/or AAC (for Apple products).
Lastly, you may wish to have multiple wired inputs. For that, with one of these mini amplifiers, you'd need an audio selector switch, such as this.
Do you have a setup where say your rear speakers are plugged in all the time, and then when you want to use a headset (say gaming or voice comms) you plug in the headset to the front panel jack?
Kind of guessing this may be the issue. If so, you may benefit from the solution I went for. Basically the headphone jack is getting worn out from many mates/demates. Every connector has a rated number of mates/demates before it starts to give. The ones used on the front panel are frequently not really good in this respect. So we'd like to come up with a setup where you don't have to keep fiddling with Windows audio output utilities, and don't have to keep plugging jacks in and out. (I know there are some very good audio control utilities, it was just nothing I wanted to deal with personally.)
I ended up going with this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NTJET10/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. It's inexpensive and it does exactly what it was meant to, and cheaper than I could have made it myself. Basically it's a stereo switch between one common and 4 ports. Thus, I wire from the rear panel to the common on this little switch, and then port A is my desktop speakers and port B is the headset. My headphones came with a little extension cord for both mike and speakers so I use that to run from the rear panel, and then I use a short male-male stereo to adapt to the common in. That puts a mike jack right by the box so there no cable length issues.
Anyway, maybe this will be of some use. That product is one of those "so simple it's hard to find" products. I've made a stereo switch in the past but once you get the box and setup the jacks and mounting and everything -- honestly it was not a project I wanted to take on, so finding one for low cost was perfect.
Hope that helps.
No clue. Probably because it's a workaround. If you have 35 bucks to drop, I'd highly recommend this card:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00428BF1Y/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=19PXRWYDINS8Q&coliid=I2SHEBGBZQJW43
It's amazing quality, easy with drivers, etc. Works perfectly with OBS once you install the drivers, which there's a tutorial on how to do it in the amazon reviews (it's click a couple boxes, but it's all in Japanese lol).
I use that, with this splitter, and S-video. Here's an example of what it looks like with my setup: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RN9E1OSVgHo
What kind of signal are you using? Composite video? If so, you need a "distribution amplifier" to actively split the signal without degrading quality.
edit: https://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-1500320-Component-Distribution-Amplifier/dp/B010EIK6K6
Most SD capture cards are intended for ripping VHS tapes to your PC. They're not intended for gaming. You'll never find one that will let you play on a PC monitor without display lag.
The solution is to get a television, and a splitter like this.
For a SNES your best bet is a CRT television, which you can get on craigslist for like $10 if you live in North America.
Your other option which I personally use is buying an s-video distribution amplifier. It helps maintain signal strength and gives the best clarity and results for both the stream and your CRT (unless you wanted to really go out and buy an upscaler). Essentially think of the powered splitter like a water pump where unpowered splitters are water lines to multiple homes. The pressure is maintained with a pump where as the multiple home connections will drop pressure. Another plus with the box is having the option of running multiple audio outputs without needing more splitters, which I use for my audio interface setup but you could also run the audio into speakers for casual play offstream.
Onboard graphics or a decent card, if card try the software dpi settings, worked for my Nvidia.
They make 4k hdmi switches I haven't had a chance to try one so I still switch hdmi cables back and forth on port one but they exist:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BV1XBIY/
I used an hdmi audio extractor to do what you're asking for a while. It worked great. You can even get an hdmi switch with audio extraction if you have more than one console.
Switch/consoles to the hdmi switch/extractor inputs, output to monitor, audio output to speakers.
You need an HDMI switch with an audio extractor. I've successfully used this switch before: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K7BZ1XC
I can output either as Optical, Emulate ARC return or Analog Audio.
Be that as it may, with the push to 4K older HDMI switching receivers are quite cheap on the used market. It might not be that much more just to get a used Denon that's about 3-4 years old.
>
> I would really, really like a volume knob.
Given how uncommon these are on OEM keyboards, have you considered using a separate device like this? https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01MV411BR
Cable i'm using :
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-supports-FullHD-Ethernet-KabelDirekt/dp/B00SVE6YF2
Switch you need:
https://www.amazon.com/Sewell-Switch-pass-through-support-Bi-Directional/dp/B06WP755QH
Works perfect
I just got a Sony Bravia and set up my psvr version 1 last week with a PS4 Pro.
If you don’t want to keep unplugging HDMI cords you could get this:
Sewell IBIS 4K HDMI Switch Box, 2x1, White, 4K 60 Hz, HDCP pass-through (HDCP 2.2 support), 2x1 or 1x2 HDMI Bi-Directional Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP755QH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_zVg3Ab9HCQR82
These cables support 4K HDR as well:
4K HDMI Cable 6ft (2-Pack) - Atevon High Speed 18Gbps HDMI 2.0 Cable - HDCP 2.2 - 4K HDR, 3D, 2160P, 1080P, Ethernet - 28AWG Braided HDMI Cord - Audio Return for TV, Monitor, Blu-ray Player, Apple TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XP129CT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_u1g3Ab1WD5A27
I got a splitter and it works pretty well. Pick up some short hdmi high speed cables as well.
Sewell IBIS 4K HDMI Switch Box, 2x1, White, 4K 60 Hz, HDCP pass-through (HDCP 2.2 support), 2x1 or 1x2 HDMI Bi-Directional Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP755QH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_j7vBzb82KYH1A
So hdmi 1 is hdr/4k, while hdmi 2 is for psvr. I'm still figuring out a good way to get the tv to recognize it half the time, since the toggle on the switch doesn't refresh the hdmi signal. Turning on the psvr seems to do the flip.
And no, other than toggling the button on the switch, there's no plugging and unplugging.
I've been using this one without any flicker or blank out issues so far.
And my point would be that those “deficiencies” don’t matter. Yes better hardware exists if you pay more, but do you really need those extra bells and whistles? My TV was $199 on Black Friday five years ago. It’s a 42” 1080p with vaguely acceptable built in speakers and two HDMI ports and a USB power port. At one point I experimented with using both ports, but quickly gave it up when I realized my Apple TV does everything I need. If it didn’t have two ports and I had two devices, like maybe a satellite box or a game console, I could make up for that with an $11 HDMI switch device.
After a billion hours of reading...I figured out my audio issue, and understand it.
An HDMI input carries sound back to a device, which gets read, converted, and pushed back out.
My particular TV pushes Dolby Digital Plus (DD+) over HDMI. Most device support Dolby Digital (DD) but but DD+, so it has to be converted to DD, or else it gets bumped to Stereo.
Some TVs convert and pass it through as either, but not mine.
A fire stick and Apple TV do the decoding and convert DD+ to DD for you, so everything works fine.
Chromecast, Sonos, and the old Shield (another device I've been looking at) can't convert the signal from DD+ to DD, so my audio gets scaled down to Stereo.
The new Shield that just came out yesterday CAN do the conversion.
So.... To fix my problem, I can by the new Shield.
Or
I can buy something like this....
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H94D77V/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_TW6TDb1QVHB6G
Setup: From TV to HDMI Out on this box > Chromecast would go to HDMI In on this box, SONOS would plug into the optical out on this box.
If none of your consoles are modded for RGB, then S-Video is not a bad alternative. S-Video looks great for 240p consoles. Beware that the N64 might still look pretty bad without an RGB mod to enable de-blur, but as far NES/SNES/Genesis/PS1 and those consoles go, S-Video is pretty damn good! GameCube and PS2 will look alright through S-Video, not great. Another plus is that decent S-Video cables are a hell of a lot cheaper than decent RGB cables, so the 14N1U is a very good budget choice for going the S-Video route.
Just add a switch like this for your S-Video setup, and you're good to go: https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-28750-Composite-Selector/dp/B0032ANC8M?ie=UTF8&keywords=s%20video%20switch&qid=1463513498&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
Of course, make sure the geometry, colors and contrast on the PVM you buy is decent. If not, it will be disappointing no matter the input.
In that case go for a switch like this. Four composite/svideo inputs, no power supply required, and balls cheap.
Component switches seem to be pretty pricey, but there's this one from Monoprice that should be able to do you good for your Wii/PS2/Xbox. If you have a learning remote thingy (like a Harmony or whatever) then you can program it and stuff (though you'll probably still have to get up to toggle whatever system you're going to be playing...so..yea...).
You're going to be running into power issues with having all of your systems hooked up, thanks to the bulky ass bricks so many of them used. Don't be the jack off that daisy chains surge protectors and extension cables, just buy something with decently spaced out outlets like this.
I also recommend labeling the cables on both ends to save on headaches later. Label which switch/port it's going to on the side that connects to the system and label the side that connects to the switch with the name of the system. You don't need to buy Kableflags, but at the very least rig something up with scotch tape and a piece of paper. It's a little redundant, but it doesn't hurt to tape a small piece of paper to the back of the TV / top of the switch / under the switch / whatever with the current, complete configuration of your whole setup, too.
The LP120 and A2+ are all you will need to start spinning records.
You won't need an external preamp, because the LP120 has one built in. You won't need a receiver/amplifier because the A2+ have built in amplification. You won't need an equalizer, unless you want to adjust the audio frequency for some reason.
The only thing you may need is a passive switch box and/or a passive volume control. The passive switch box will allow you to hook more than one input source (turntable, mp3 player, etc) to your A2+ speakers. A passive volume control will allow you adjust the volume more easily than reaching behind the A2+ speakers each time you want to change the volume level.
The passive switch box (aka A/V switcher) is available at nearly any big-box or online retailer. The passive volume control can probably be found at multiple places as well. Links for reference:
http://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-Auto-sensing-Switch-5--2-out/dp/B00DSQMVKU/
http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-28750-Composite-Selector/dp/B0032ANC8M
http://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-Composite-Selector-Switch/dp/B005LT1CXO
http://www.amazon.com/Axxess-AALC-Controller-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B003FPD3IS
http://www.amazon.com/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B0002J226O
I've got you covered for about $35, possibly cheaper depending on whether or not your turntable already has a pre-amp built in.
What you need:
Here's how it works:
Now all you have to do is press a button to change inputs. And like I said earlier, if your turntable already has a pre-amp built in, or you already own a pre-amp or receiver, then you can knock $15 off the price and have everything you need for under $20. Possibly right now if you head to a WalMart or something.
Edit: The bonus about this method is you keep the signal analog the whole way through. Also, as mentioned by /u/apapousek, a two channel system is the absolute best audio upgrade you can make at the moment.
I would get a switch rather than relying on the monitor for it, because I think you'll pay more for a worse monitor just to have this fairly low demand feature.
heres one example http://www.amazon.com/EnjoyGadgets-Switcher-Selector-Support-Switching/dp/B003AQD5W6 Only 20 bucks, even supports a remote.
alternatively, a home theatre receiver could serve this function as well, but larger and more expensive.
What you are looking for here in my mind is something like a switch box that you can use to switch between multiple HDMI devices with only one input going to the TV? Those are pretty common. Look at this: https://www.amazon.com/EnjoyGadgets-Switcher-Selector-Support-Switching/dp/B003AQD5W6
What about buying an HDMI switch and plugging the ps4 and Mac into that..then using the HDMI to dvi cable as the single output?
An audio switch to select the signal you want to hear might be practical. Example from Amazon
You may want to specify what kind of connector the input of your sound system uses. Otherwise, how about something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/3-Way-Switch-Selector-Splitter-XBOX360/dp/B004T8KZCM/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1410823053&sr=8-16&keywords=3.5mm+switch
and then some of these to convert between 3.5mm jacks and composite:
http://www.amazon.com/eForCity-3-5mm-Auxiliary-Cable-Cord/dp/B0042DIZTE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1410823147&sr=8-4&keywords=composite+3.5mm
http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410823147&sr=8-1&keywords=composite+3.5mm
https://www.amazon.com/niceeshop-Composite-Selector-Switch-Splitter/dp/B004T8KZCM
What about something like this?
Both red and white jacks need to come from the same input; they correspond to the left and right channels of the input so the amp really only has 1 input. What you want is an RCA switch:http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004T8KZCM?pc_redir=1413854184&robot_redir=1
I had a similar problem with an older HD TV that still works great....basically the TV does not have the capability of sending back to the streaming devices the signal they send to the TV to verify "HDCP compliance". What I did was purchase a splitter that strips out the HDCP signal from the streaming device....so Roku to splitter, cable from splitter to TV...solved the problem.
Here is model I got from amazon....read the reviews of how others purchase for this purpose. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0089DSLMY/
Hope this helps.
https://www.amazon.com/Auto-sensing-V-Switch-5-2-out/dp/B00DSQMVKU
This is what I have. I got a pair of them on ebay a bit cheaper, you can hunt around. It works great, if all you need is s-video or composite.
One downside is adding yet another AC wart to your probably already crowded power strips.
Ironic bonus: Came with several dozen different labels for the buttons.
While any switch will do, I prefer this one. It auto senses the source when you turn on a console, and if you have any consoles on composite (like a Sega Genesis or NES) they'll still get output via the S-Video on the switcher.
Edit: Fixed mobile formatting.
I use something similar to this at work. I have a computer, xbox and ps4 going into the inputs and switch between them.
http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-TOSLINK-Digital-Optical-Switcher/dp/B00G188Z7A
So I use all 3 with the Pro Wireless as well, but FOR STRICTLY AUDIO, no chat.
USB > PC
Then Optical > Console
I use this to connect my xbox and ps4 to, then run the optical out to the base station. Hit 1 for xbox, 2 for ps4.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G188Z7A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I get sound simultaneously through both (Can balance which is louder as well. I believe Voice is usb and Game is optical) Technically I get 3 sources of audio using BT to my phone. All works great.
Your stereo only has a single set of RCA inputs? I would not go the splitter approach. You want a switch instead
No, its a closed system over Wifi, no analog inputs.
What is your current turntable? You can add a Bluetooth Transmitter to any turntable to stream to a single Echo speaker or a stereo system over Bluetooth. There is an adapter to transmit to 2 Bluetooth speakers however a set of 2 adapters for 4 speakers would be even more of a pairing mess.
However, a big part of vinyl is the analog sound and the Echo and especially the Dots are not very good speakers. You will be much better off with better pair of home audio bookshelf speakers and you can add a second set in another room. You can also hook up one of the Dots to the speakers to have better streaming audio sound.
Any of these systems can also be added to the Dots for better sound in other rooms.
Lowest budget $50 6-1/2" 2-Way Bookshelf Speaker Pair and Hi-Fi Mini Amplifier Bundle. Add a RCA switch $11 to add a Dot with the turntable and speakers.
Or powered Edifier R1280T bookshelf speakers $99.
Or a step up mini amp and speakers, $52 SMSL SA-36A Pro TPA3118D2DAP Stereo Amplifier 2 x 20W with $50 Dayton Audio B652-AIR 6-1/2" 2-Way Bookshelf Speaker with AMT Tweeter Pair. Add speaker wire, and see 4 Ways to Strip Wire - wikiHow.
For the best sound quality for the buck, look for a used stereo or AV receiver and a pair of used bookshelf speakers.
A step up new is ONKYO TX-8020 $99 stereo receiver with:
$349MSRP new or 6.5" Infinity Reference 162 $175$449MSRP when new.Home Audio Guides: Intro to home stereo systems • Introduction to Audio Components • Zeos Tutorials, Diagrams and Videos • r/audiophile Guide to Home Audio • AverageJoeAudiophile's Guides •
Speaker Positioning: How to position your speakers for great sound • Speaker Placement for Stereo Music Listening
Also check out r/BudgetAudiophile
http://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Switcher-Composite-Selector-Consoles/dp/B00KXVBB3Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1457224696&sr=8-2&keywords=rca+switch+box
I've used one of these and it's quite literally just a mechanic switch between different inputs. Clunky switches and a metal box; should do what you need, too.
I mean it's $11 tho
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KXVBB3Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_p144BbT83YC65
So if I wanted to keep my ps2 and xbox hooked up and not have to switch out the av cables, I can just use this right?
Cheapest ghetto answer is going to be an RCA Switch and Line Level Control
Then you just leave everything at full out and pick and choose.
Definitely use the Svideo, if you don't want to go the SCART to Component route. I used Svideo cables coming out of the SNES/N64 and they go into a switch that handles svideo and composite RCA(Red, White, Yellow) Cables. Then the switch outputs everything over one svideo cable into the svideo port and the sound I run into the red/white. [Switcher similar to mine] (http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-28750-Composite-Selector/dp/B0032ANC8M)
Best N64/SNES Svideo cable is this one but there are cheaper ones out there too but your mileage will vary. Those cables can be found on ebay usually for more the $50 range. So Run your NES over the composite RCA into the switch, your SNES/N64 into the switch via svideo, and then use just the svideo out on your switch and the red/white audio out because svideo only carries video not audio.
If you really want to get into RGB/SCART/COMPONENT Setups, I'd look at the other posts and also here If you want to do that, you'll need SCART cables for your SNES and 64, then need to run them into a box like [this] (http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SCART-RGB-to-YUV-Component-Video-Converter-Scaler-/221156873851) And you'll need to split out audio like [this] (http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/157395/adding-audio-to-the-cvs287-scart-to-component-converter) also you might need a SCART switch to run from the consoles into SCART switch then out put in SCART to the converter box then from the converter box to the Component on your TV. Also your N64 will need to be modded for RGB output and your NES will too.
The SNES is the only one in your setup outputting full RGB by default. Honestly un-modded Composite is the best you get for NES and Svideo for N64(some even say composite is better for N64 depending on the model and chipsets in the N64).
I've toyed with that setup but honestly Svideo on the old Sony Trinitron looks great to me. Also monster cables are well known for quality, good insulation, etc. So I have some RCA composite Monster cables, the Svideo ones, and a few random RCA ones too.
You could use a Schiit Sys and leave the volume control set to 100%.
I've had bad luck with the cheap RCA selectors on Amazon - specifically this one.
I would look at older models like this. Yeah they don't look as cool as the Sys but they tend to be built better.
Another redditor had suggested This and it's been a great switch box, it has s-video inputs on all of them so you can get great quality out of it.
Something like this is what you're looking for -- a HDMI switch.
Here's one on Amazon that comes with a remote.
Are they both HDMI? Get an HDMI switch.
Except this one does the opposite, it broadcasts from one input to two televisions. I didn't really care about that because it wasn't why I was buying it for. I guess it's good for like sports bars with multiple tvs playing the same thing.
Edit: I think you would want one that is called a "switch" something like this. I don't know it this one is any good or will bypass HDCP, just the first result on google.
There you go: http://www.amazon.com/Certified-Switcher-Toslink-Digital-Coaxial/dp/B003L14WB8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1322747964&sr=8-1
(I was on my phone before)
edit: Like I said, it didn't last long. Also, I remember my PC video card didn't like it. All other devices seemed to work fine. It was even programmable through my Harmony Remote.
If you get an hdmi switch that splits optical you need not plug the playbar into the projector at all. I currently use one because my tv does not pass 5.1 (which is also a possibility with your projector). Plug all your sources into the switch, plug the optical out from the switch to the playbar, and the hdmi out from switch to the projector. You will just need a long hdmi cable.
I use this switch
Monoprice 105557 4x1 HDMI Switch with Toslink, Digital Coaxial and 3D Support https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L14WB8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_31bBCbVYW16R6
I had the same issue with a black Friday special Samsung TV. Luckily I don't watch TV and use all external devices, Roku, BluRay and PS4. I used the monoprice receiver to output audio to my amplifier
Monoprice Blackbird 4x1 HDMI 1.4 Switch HDCP 1.4 with Toslink and Analog Audio Extractor 1080p@60Hz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L14WB8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wCf3CbM1XSPFZ
The monoprice hdmi switcher + toslink (optical) is what I use to send sound to my surround system, as well as quickly switch between HDMI signals (computer, PS3, PS4). It works great except for one thing... the frequency used by the W1070's remote control is the SAME as that of the monoprice box. That means I can't control the projector without switching the signal on the HDMI box! So maybe your best bet is to find something similar, so that you don't frustrate yourself.
http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105557-Toslink-Digital-Coaxial/dp/B003L14WB8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1420416934&sr=8-3&keywords=monoprice+switcher+hdmi
I use https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B003L14WB8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for that exact reason. It works like a charm and did not break the bank. On the plus side, if you use a Logitech Harmony remote, it will control the switch for you.
Yep looks exactly the same.
Edit here is the Amazon link for the monoprice one I posted. This one just actually claims Dolby TrueHD and DTS. Still need to find a tinting tape for those LEDs. Maybe sugru
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003L14WB8/ref=redir_mdp_mobile?pc_redir=T1
Yes you need a switch or a receiver to split the audio. I have a projector too and a Sonos Beam via optical. There are probably better ones but this is what I bought last year and it works great.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003L14WB8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Does the hdmi switch have an optical out? If not, there are hdmi switches with an optical output that is what you need.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003L14WB8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1450880600&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX118_SY170_QL70&keywords=hdmi+switch+with+optical+out&dpPl=1&dpID=412FZLwQviL&ref=plSrch
For non-simultaneous playback:
Here's what you could do:
Buy one 3.5mm Stereo Male to Two RCA Male Splitter Cable, and one 2 x RCA Male, 1 x 3.5mm Stereo Female, Y-Cable 6-Inch. Also get a 3-Way Audio Video AV RCA Switch Selector Box Splitter. That all together is $9.82 US.
Connect the xbox to your TV as normal. Use the RCA cable included with the splitter to connect your TV's audio output to the Splitter's Input 1. You don't need to connect the yellow video connection on that cable. Then use a male 3.5mm Stereo to RCA cord to connect your laptop/iphone's headphone jack to the Splitter's Input 2. Plug the 2 x RCA Male, 1 x 3.5mm Stereo Female, Y-Cable 6-Inch cable into the Splitter's Output, and connect your headphones to the 3.5mm female end. You should then easily be able to switch between ipod/laptop and xbox/tv sound feeding to your headphones by adjusting the splitter's output switch. This is a very basic setup, but should achieve what you're going for as long as you didn't want the two inputs playing simultaneously.
For simultaneous playback:
Here's what you could do (I admit this is probably a bit of a wrap around way of doing it, but it was fun to come up with):
Buy:
Two Behringer MICROMIX MX400 4-Channel Mixer, one 3.5mm Stereo Male To 2 RCA Male Cable, one Male RCA to male RCA cable, one male RCA to female 3.5mm cable, six 3.5mm to 2RCA female adapter, and six 1/4 inch to 1/8 inch stereo jack adapters. This setup without shipping and handling costs $75.55 US.
This thing only outputs in mono though, so it doesn't benefit your headphones greatly (only one side will play sound). This is why we're gonna get two of them though, and this is the fun part. Check out this picture: http://i.imgur.com/UPMX5j2.png. It has the steps included with a crude illustration. The benefit of this setup is that you can have the ipod/laptop coming in at a different volume than the tv/xbox. Also has space for two more inputs if your ever have more you want to plug in (or to allow a laptop and ipod to be plugged in at the same time).
I... I think that setup would work.
You might be looking for an audio input switcher. This one will work, but might not grant a good enough audio signal.
If you want to use both at the same time I'd recommend using some kind of mixer (Numark M101 or Behringer Xeny 502/302).
The more studio oriented options (eg. Nowsonic Switcher, SM Pro Audio M-Patch 2, Samson C-Control) will probably do a better job (less loss in audio quality), however they obviously are not cheaper.
Your Mackies take an RCA Input. SO you need to split that RCA Input into three connections. This will become quite convoluted and require LOTS of adapters, as it just isn't what these speakers were meant for.
You could use one of these and then run your turntable in with RCAs (you might require a pre-amp), you can use your 3.5mm jack output on your pc with a 3.5mm male to rca male adapter like this and a second one of those adapters to go from echo to splitter.
With this setup you could play any of those devices on the Mackies, but only one at a time
Switch boxes for RCA connections are SOOO cheap
My setup is
AT-LP120-USB -> Schitt Magni 2 Uber -> Headphones
The Schiit Magni 2 Uber has a pre-amp output so when you unplug the headphones it will output the sound to your powered speaker or amplifier.
You could always use a RCA splitter like this one but I'm not sure if it will affect the sound or not.
http://www.amazon.com/AGPtek%C2%AE-Switch-Selector-Splitter-Xbox360/dp/B004T8KZCM
Quick amazon search came across this: http://www.amazon.com/3-Way-Switch-Selector-Splitter-XBOX360/dp/B004T8KZCM
I have all my systems hooked into my Vizio. So i'm pretty sure they can run on any television, just comes down to preference. And I know i've seen people post that they use splitters like this to connect all their systems. I'm not there yet, but once I move out i'll be investing in these and maybe a few of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Philips-SPP1591WA-Protector-Flexible-Outlets/dp/B000XRXCCS/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1334657097&sr=1-3
Hope I helped!
When you say regular cable splitters would you mean something like this? http://www.amazon.com/Composite-Audio-Selector-Switch-Splitter/dp/B004T8KZCM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425191540&sr=8-1&keywords=av+splitter
The adapters you linked may work if you connect both whites to one and both reds to the other, then plug them in to the respective connections on the amp. It might cause interference issues and lack of sound quality though. You'd be better off with a switch allowing you to have multiple inputs connected and just switch between them. Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004T8KZCM?cache=23a6b60c146f7421487c35a2c978e574&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1413936428&sr=1-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1
is cheap and would work. It also handles video input. There are more advanced ones too with more inputs or a remote, etc.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004T8KZCM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This thing just arrived after I bought it looking for a splitter to use with my easycap to record some melee. Did I fuck up, because I don't think this is what I wanted. If so, any recommendations for cheap splitters from amazon.ca?
It's an error related to your projector not supporting HDCP. The only option is return the device, or find a way to 'strip' the HDCP from the HDMI.
Here's a starting point for that http://www.tweaking4all.com/home-theatre/remove-hdcp-hdmi-signal/
Pretty sure this switch will do the trick and is cheap: https://www.amazon.com/BG-520-splitter-switcher-XBOX360-Blu-ray/dp/B0089DSLMY
This:
http://smile.amazon.com/AVerMedia-Definition-Commentate-Recorder-C285/dp/B00F890KXU?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01
Plus this:
http://smile.amazon.com/BG-520-splitter-switcher-XBOX360-Blu-ray/dp/B0089DSLMY?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
Equals Awesome Capturing.
I have a Toshiba 500 GB External plugged into front USB and just one press of record button and it records. Press the record button again and it stops. The light blinks so you know your recording.
It's easy to use, easy to setup. The on screen menus are slow to load but I don't need them as I only press one button on the remote ever. It has a built in editor but it didn't work that well. I just record on hard drive. Then take hard drive to my PC and edit footage.
I love this thing. If you use the splitter I linked it removes HDCP and you can even record streaming apps like NF and PSV.
Yep, plenty of the reviews for this one mention the (unadvertised) HDCP stripping functionality of this one: http://www.amazon.com/BG-520-splitter-switcher-XBOX360-Blu-ray/dp/B0089DSLMY/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1420141549&sr=8-11&keywords=hdmi+2.0+splitter
I was shopping for an HDMI splitter for other reasons, so when I saw these notes, I though of your post.
HDMI cable from DirecTV box IN to this:
https://www.amazon.com/BG-520-splitter-switcher-XBOX360-Blu-ray/dp/B0089DSLMY
Two HDMI cables OUT from that, one to your TV, one to this:
https://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Capture-PlayStation-Nintendo-gameplay/dp/B00MIQ40JQ/
Connect that to your computer and record.
That's the capture card I use and no it does not. I use this splitter and it works fine.
This sounds like it may be an HDCP issue. I use a Yamaha receiver to convert Component to HDMI and at first my Elgato HD60S didn't get any picture from the receiver. I found out that the receiver was adding HDCP protection to the HDMI signal which blocked the capture card. I had to get an HDMI splitter to strip out the HDCP.
This is what finally got to allow my Elgato to see the HDMI signal from my receiver.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0089DSLMY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can bypass HDCP using an HDMI splitter - this is how I record my PSTV output to a capture card for streaming. The model of splitter I use is This one (amazon.ca link - I apologize, I am Canadian)
Yeah there are cheaper switches... You needed me to google that?
http://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-Auto-sensing-Switch-5--2-out/dp/B00DSQMVKU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416786824&sr=8-1&keywords=audio+switch
Find one with a single composite port and grab a switch box. They're dirt cheap now, and most manual ones even work unpowered.
I use this guy: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DSQMVKU/ref=s9_simh_gw_p23_d0_i3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=19B33HS2JN0SW9M4CB5B&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=1970559082&pf_rd_i=desktop
Requires to be plugged in (which is the only down side) but it auto-switches so I don't even need to push a button, just power on the console I want to play and BOOM
Yes both are av switches. The one with s-video is http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DSQMVKU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1420291068&sr=8-1&dpPl=1&dpID=51uveTmBlCL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40 and the one with just composite is http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DRGDBTG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1420291068&sr=8-3&dpPl=1&dpID=41lebNURx6L&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40
The S video switch has five inputs and two outputs, the composite switch has eight inputs and one output. The one with S video is autoswitching but requires power. If I had it to do again I would just buy two autoswitching S video boxes. They were cheaper and easier to use. Quality on both seems good.
I was trying to figure this out a couple months ago. I ending up ordering this splitter from Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DSQMVKU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So far its worked for me. Here is how I set mine up. http://i.imgur.com/CttkMeG.jpg
Only the SNES, N64, and 360 are plugged in to the splitter.
You could use an optical switch like this, I expect: https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-TOSLINK-Digital-Switcher-VHD-TS3X1/dp/B00G188Z7A
The transmitter comes with an optical in port as well as an optical out port. Not sure if you could connect to your receiver via optical out, I've never tried that. You could also use the analog in as well, but you probably would want the optical connection I assume. In this review it mentions that he connected the transmitter to the optical on his t.v. and got all audio through headset without switching a thing(scroll down)
http://theslanted.com/2013/12/12663/steelseries-spotlight-rival-mouse-9h-headset-h-wireless-headset/
Switches are cheap and work great:
http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-TOSLINK-Digital-Optical-Switcher/dp/B00G188Z7A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394144689&sr=8-1&keywords=ViewHD+SPDIF
Sorry I couldn't be more help on that issue.
ViewHD SPDIF | TOSLINK Digital Optical Audio Switcher 3x1 with Remote (Three Inputs to One Output) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G188Z7A/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_gze2tb11FJ23X9YX
This is what I used. And then plugged the USB into my TV USB port. Works great. Passes 5.1 to the transmitter perfectly.
Hah. Well... I tried. Here's another shot:
https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-TOSLINK-Digital-Optical-Switcher/dp/B00G188Z7A
https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Digital-Analog-Decoder-VHD-51CAD/dp/B00MSD26TK
This gets you three optical inputs, DD/DTS decoding, 5.1 analog out, a volume control, and (two) remote control.
No idea about getting these things to Croatia, but like much of the China product at this end of the spectrum there are equivalent (perhaps identical) items sold under many different names.
Sounds like a potential issue is that the sound coming out of the optical output of the TV, which may only be 2.0 or 2.1, rather than 5.1. I have this problem with my TV.
You can instead use the optical outputs of each device and send them to an adapter that accepts multiple optical inputs, which then sends the audio off to one optical output based on the input you select. Here's some examples after very quick searching on Amazon (I would definitely search around Amazon/Google a lot more, if you can find one that has more reviews and/or best sellers):
https://www.amazon.com/Portta-APET0403T-Toslink-Digital-Optical/dp/B00SX0QKGM/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1480443591&sr=1-3&keywords=dual+optical+input
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IP8IQOU?psc=1
I imagine they make better ones with remote capabilities also. In fact at least one of these has an IR Extender port which might be used for remote capabilities, not 100% sure though. Not sure if this works for you but it might be an option, and these devices should preserve the 5.1. :)
EDIT: found one with a remote!
https://www.amazon.com/Portta-APET0301T-Toslink-Switcher-Dolby-AC3/dp/B00KDZEWWO/ref=pd_cp_23_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00KDZEWWO&pd_rd_r=YZV7EBB60HT6Y3N3397R&pd_rd_w=IOYG5&pd_rd_wg=WfBLB&psc=1&refRID=YZV7EBB60HT6Y3N3397R
...and some others.
https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-TOSLINK-Digital-Optical-Switcher/dp/B00G188Z7A/ref=pd_cp_23_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00G188Z7A&pd_rd_r=YZV7EBB60HT6Y3N3397R&pd_rd_w=IOYG5&pd_rd_wg=WfBLB&psc=1&refRID=YZV7EBB60HT6Y3N3397R
https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Digital-Optical-Control-Toslink/dp/B00HTYBPPY/ref=pd_cp_23_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00HTYBPPY&pd_rd_r=YZV7EBB60HT6Y3N3397R&pd_rd_w=IOYG5&pd_rd_wg=WfBLB&psc=1&refRID=YZV7EBB60HT6Y3N3397R
No TV is going to have more than one RF port. You can either daisy-chain the RF adapters for the consoles (I'd try this, and stick with it as long as the image doesn't look any worse), or you can get an RF switch. I've only ever seen 2-port RF switches. https://www.amazon.com/RCA-VH71-B-Slide-Switch/dp/B00009W3F2/
For composite, some TVs will have more than one, but an easier solution is to just get a composite switch box. These are incredibly common, and can probably be found at a local store. You can get them in anywhere from 2-5 inputs pretty cheap. Here's a 3-input one: https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-Technology-Selector-Splitter-Connecting/dp/B00HNCPR92/
As for PVMs, they do not have TV tuners in them, and therefore do not take an RF input. You can connect any standard VCR, however, and this will enable you to input RF into the VCR and output this signal to the PVM as composite video.
Oh that's easy then! You can get splitters like this where you can just flip back and forth between the inputs when you want. Some others may come with a remote.
If you really want to just have both always on I believe you'd need a mixer like this one but they are more expensive than a simple splitter.
Active speakers are typically designed to be used by one device. That's their main benefit...you don't need a full receiver to connect them to...you can just plug them directly into whatever audio source you want and be done.
If you want to use powered speakers with multiple inputs, you need to figure out how to switch between the multiple inputs. One option is to just run both into one input using Y-splitters. That means you'd have your computer and your turntable plugged into the same inputs at the same time.
This is the cheapest solution...but obviously you'd want to avoid playing both at once.
You could also buy an actual switch as well:
https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-A1602-Splitter-Connecting-Devices/dp/B00HNCPR92/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493661472&sr=8-1&keywords=rca+input+switch
So that solves the speaker portion, but not the headphone side. So you still need a headphone amp (since it appears those speakers do not have headphone outputs). So you could get another switch and essentially have the ability to switch the inputs (turntable v computer) and then on the other side a switch to change the outputs (powered speakers v headphone amp).
At that point, however, you may want to consider going back to a good ol set of passive speakers and a proper receiver that would include multiple inputs and headphone out for you. (Or, alternatively, get powered speakers that include a headphone jack).
You don't need a mixer unless you want to play the piano and the turntable at the same time. You can simply plug whichever one one you're using into the receiver, and unplug the other.
This is a bit of hassle, so you can buy something like this switch to switch between the TT and the piano.
Since you have a receiver, you're looking for passive as opposed to active speakers. Since you're playing the piano, you'll want accurate sound reproduction, so studio monitors would be a good choice.
With decent speakers, you don't need a subwoofer to play the piano. You might want one for your music. There aren't really any speakers that don't need a subwoofer - it always helps. (I don't have one because the 5.5" drivers in my speakers give enough bass for what I listen to, but I would get one if I listened to more EDM for example.)
Or maybe you don't need to run another audio cable across the room
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KXVBB3Q/ref=twister_B00M0X1VPS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You could get a HDMI Switcher or an AV Switch, these are pretty cheap, and can maximize your existing slots.
Juts make sure you get remote controlled switches, as i find that with 9 retro consoles, and a few newer ones, including steamlink for PC, Tivo box etc, a controller really makes it viable.
Here is Amazon.com "Selector Switch section"
You want an audio selector switch. RCA males into the females in on selector, male RCA to 1/4 adapter out.
Edit: Something like this, but I just selected this as an example, no idea if this one is good or not.
And I would think the place for the volume control would be on the selector switches out to the speakers. But don't the speakers already have volume control?
I've never seen a receiver that has an optical OUTPUT they traditionally only have optical INPUT, so pretty much you'll have to use the headphone output on a receiver. Receivers are meant to be the end of the "audio train" so they don't usually include many outputs. Run all your sources to the receiver and one 3.5mm to RCA into the back of the CM15 soundbar.
Edit: Also, you're right in that you don't need a nice receiver if it's only an AV hub, you're not actually powering speakers off of it so a cheap one works fine.
Edit 2: maybe something like [this.](Panlong 4-Way AV Switch RCA Switcher 4 In 1 Out Composite Video L/R Audio Selector Box for DVD STB Game Consoles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KXVBB3Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dHIpybSFEYJVC)
Given your set up, you could use something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Switcher-Composite-Selector-Consoles/dp/B00KXVBB3Q/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1449488384&sr=8-5&keywords=rca+switch
Plug your TV sound out and the output RCA connectors from your phono pre-amp to it. Then run the outputs from it into your Rokits.
The Schiit Sys will definitely do it, although you don't need the potentiometer. There are cheaper input switchers on Amazon. IDK which are of best quality. For example, https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Switcher-Composite-Selector-Consoles/dp/B00KXVBB3Q
Oh I thought you wanted to be playing from stuff at the same time.
You could get an RCA switcher like this.
If you're a hip hop fan you're probably going to want something with a sub. I see a few options for you.
> I believe these speakers are active since there is a power switch
Yeah if they plug into the wall then they are powered.
> I assume I need some sort of pre-amp to boost the quality and volume.
EDIT: what adayinalife said, check your turntable for a built in preamp.
Yeah you do, Don't bother with tube preamps. A good quality one will be expensive and a cheap tube preamp will be a low quality gimmick. Just get a solid state preamp. The ProJect Phono Box range is worth looking at.
If you want to avoid manually switching you can get an audio selector box like this
I use this switcher to switch between my second monitor and the Rift. It doesn't turn on.
Might consider a bidirectional HDMI switch, then there's no wear on the components and it's just an easy button press. Mine arrives today and I'll see if it behaves with the CV1. I picked up this one : http://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD8024-Bi-Directional-Switcher-Passthrough/dp/B00LFX1UDM
I recently bought this by mistake, but im sure they come in other flavors.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00LFX1UDM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
HDMI Input ---> Button Swaps between two outputs. But the setup you are looking for might be kinda hard to setup.
Alright. How many input are you looking for?
There's quite a few different ones of that variety out there, actually. Look up with "stereo switch" or something along those lines. For example, here's a 1-4 switch with RCAs, and here's one with 3.5mm sockets. No idea of the quality of these, though.
Or you could always build one yourself (or have someone put it together for you). Really easy and cheap little DIY project! I'm currently using in my setup a 1-3 switch I built myself for switching between desktop speakers and two headphone amps.
Are these computer-style speakers where you just plug the 3.5mm cable into the computer (or TV)?
Cheapest would probably be an audio selector switch but you'd probably need some adapters to get it connected properly; AND you'd only be able to listen to one at a time.
Something like this: http://smile.amazon.com/Stereo-Manual-Selector-Sharing-Switch/dp/B00NTJET10/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1464403851&sr=8-5&keywords=audio+selector
If you want to hear both at once, you're probably best buying a cheap mixer and feeding that into the speakers. You could try a simple Y-adapter into the speaker, but I think you'll get some weird stuff going on as the audio will be feeding back to both devices.
sounds like you want something on these lines.
http://www.amazon.com/Stereo-Manual-Selector-Sharing-Switch/dp/B00NTJET10/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463941099&sr=8-2&keywords=3.5mm+switch
1 input from source, and 4 options for output controlled by the button interface. it is not exactly aesthetically pleasing imo.
the one you were looking at seems to be a full out/in switch, aka switches between out/in 1-4, so yes you would need to unplug and plug things in, which if you are going to do that anyways it makes it rather pointless (it would be easier and cheaper just to buy a 3.5mm extension cable instead, since thats what it would essentially be for you at that point). that one serves a specific need, of someone with multiple sources and multiple outputs.
assuming you aren't trying to listen to more than one source simultaneously, what you want is a switch, not a mixer...something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NTJET10
something like this also works if your source outputs via RCA and you have a headphone amp:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0056DQT1A/
btw, that adapter converts stereo to mono...
I haven't used something like that, but this looks like what you are describing:
https://www.amazon.com/Stereo-Manual-Selector-Sharing-Switch/dp/B00NTJET10
That'll need a switch, not a splitter. You can get both functions in one box https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Switcher-Selector-Extractor/dp/B00QJGAKCW
Depends on the inputs available on your devices and projector.
https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Switcher-Selector-Extractor/dp/B00QJGAKCW
Something like this could work that has optical output for sound to your old receiver, but it only has 3 HDMI inputs/1 out. As long as that's enough you should be ok.
Also it really depends on how old your receiver is. If it's ancient I would recommend upgrading. This is a good cheap solution though at $37.
TV, surround sound system, gaming from my couch rather than at a desk:
Plus some way to use a mouse. But yeah, I have this current setup (with a slightly cheaper 55” tv I’m considering upgrading to the 65” I linked) and gaming in a home theater setup is glorious. With absolutely no budget, I might pick a bigger, more expensive TV (like something truly absurd like 88 inches and just keep moving my couch back until I could handle how big the tv was) but I’m happy with my current tv size.
This should also work well for console gaming, I just don’t own any consoles so I can’t comment.
I am using this one (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QJGAKCW) and it works perfectly. Comes with a remote and has almost perfect rating on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/LINDY-Port-4K-DisplayPort-Switch/dp/B00ZK2S71W
and then use a hdmi to display port converter https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_sc_1_11?url=search-alias%3Delectronics&field-keywords=hdmi+to+displayport&sprefix=hdmi+to+dis%2Celectronics%2C212&crid=1BRRVC82BIL0R
You could get a switch. I'm not sure that this one would work, but something like this.
I’ve found this switch to work pretty well. It’s a dumb switch and just physically plugs the cables in. There isn’t any internal logic. But I haven’t tested it with a Pimax yet. I use it to switch between computers for my 4K monitor. But I’ve been able to overclock my display to 70hz so the switch doesn’t seem to care what is going through it.
amazon link
Splitter, no. Oculus doesn't use the same aspect ratio or even have the same resolution as your screens which prevents splitting.
The thing that MIGHT work is a displayport switch, essentially an a/b box.
MAYBE something like this would work
https://www.amazon.com/LINDY-Port-4K-DisplayPort-Switch/dp/B00ZK2S71W/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=displayport+switch&qid=1571693838&sr=8-3
This one: LINDY 2 Port 4K DisplayPort Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZK2S71W/
There was a supply available with prime shipping. There’s also slightly cheaper versions on eBay. With good cables this has been rock solid. Keep them short if you can.
I use composite myself, but I do notice diminished video quality when using un-powered cable splitters. I would assume that S-video would probably be the same way. So if you're concerned about quality you'll probably want to look into a powered distribution amp (probably something like this, just make sure it has multiple outputs), and then run S-video cables from that to your TV and capture card.
You're gonna need a splitter- Signal comes from the console into the splitter, then a line from the splitter goes into the CRT TV and a line goes into your capture card.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010EIK6K6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is one of the more commonly used splitters. If you look in the "Frequently Bought Together" section, you'll see some extra cables you'll need. There's also a I-o capture card in that section. It's a small, cheap japanese capture card that's super easy to set up and use, and comes highly recommended for streaming RCA consoles. If your setup with the RCA to HDMI converter doesn't work or seems laggy for any reason, you might want to give that one a try.
EDIT: In addition, DO NOT BUY a CRT TV online. Online sellers have caught on to the fact that CRTs are fashionable as "retro gaming TVs", and have been jacking up the price. If you don't have one, ask around. Check craigslist. Go to Goodwill or a similar "junk I no longer need" store. You should be able to get one for next to free. Another side note is that some TVs have a "Game" or "Input" mode that there is no button for on the TV. You'll need a universal remote from Walmart/Best Buy/etc to access it. In general with old TVs, the more recognizable the brand name, the better.
EDIT EDIT: With the proper settings, MANY games will not give you problems playing on a flatscreen modern monitor. That said, if it's a game that requires a lot of precise execution/has anything pixel or frame perfect, you're still better off with a CRT.
Your optical solution will work, but loses the HDMI-CEC aspects of the solution. Meaning, if you control your soundbar with the TV remote right now then you will now have to use your soundbar remote to control the volume since optical won't send those commands to the soundbar. Also, your TV may or may not output 5.1 channel sound via the optical port.
This might be a good time to invest in a Harmony remote, if you don't have one already. Then you could get an HDMI splitter/hub (link below) with an IR sensor. Setup the Harmony to control the HDMI hub and it will change inputs from Roku to PS4 via the harmony automatically.
https://www.amazon.com/Zettaguard-Wireless-Switcher-Switches-ZW410/dp/B01BV1XBIY/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511967570&sr=1-3&keywords=4k+hdmi+hub
I use Zettaguard 4K x 2K 4 Port 4 x 1 HDMI Switch with PIP and IR Wireless Remote Control, HDMI Switcher Hub Port Switches (ZW410) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BV1XBIY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oMKOBb1DAY2YE sorry on mobile and don't know how to format the link.
edit: have to correct my original purchase, that switch was for a different setup. I actually ordered this
Has anyone used any of these HDMI switchers before?
I'm getting one for use with my Switch/Wii U/SNES Classic/NES Classic
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049SCB2Y
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BV1XBIY/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QQA6K84/
I know one person using this right now and it works for them.
By "TV based," I assume you want to listen to HDMI sources rather than USB. There are a couple of cheap/simple solutions to this, but a receiver w/pre-outs would benefit your existing setup in several ways.
First, the cheap solutions:
Now, a receiver with pre-outs would optimally integrate your Paradigms and sub. You'll have one, master volume control for all speakers (b/c each Paradigm speaker and the sub all have individual volume knobs. Right now you're prob adjusting volume on your computer or DAC/HP amp). You'll also gain centralized crossover control, time-delay adjustments, level-matching between sources, more inputs and the possibility to integrate your existing computer audio setup alongside. Unfortunately, as you've found, pre-outs aren't generally found on receivers below $300. Good luck.
I have a similar setup and, as a first-time buyer, it took me quite a while to make sense of how everything was supposed to connect together. I didn't get much help from the posts I made at the time, but here's my setup:
Your thoughts on Question 2 are correct as far as hookups, but the key (at least with the Magnifi Mini setup) is that you use the Optical Output from the splitter to the soundbar.
So, for you, PS4/Apple TV/DirecTV --> Splitter --> HDMI Out to Projector, Optical Out to Soundbar.
Also, I have a really bright room and a beige spackled wall. Not sure what your room situation is like, but I don't use a screen and it looks great, so if you're looking to save a few bucks, you might try the setup without the screen first and see if you can get by.
Romer G is a switch Logitech makes. I would try to stick with Cherry MX Linear switches and stay away from clicky switches because they get annoying after long term use. Tactile are an exception sometimes Using Halo Trues on my GMMK TKL right now 😊
If you want an RGB keyboard look at a GMMK by Glorious or a Ducky. If you don't need RGB then look at Leopold keyboards. Logitech are good at making mice but they are rather lack luster in quality when it comes to their Romer G keyboards. You could possibly consider their Cherry boards but I have no experience with them and I would personally pick a Leopold over most if all gaming brands now. I've owned and used a Corsair board(Corsair K70 - Cherry MX Red), Cooler Master board(CM Storm Quick Fire TKL - Cherry MX Brown) and Logitechs Romer G board (G810 Orion - Romer G). The G810 Orion was by far the worse mech board I daily used.. also the left CTRL key cap broke on me. The little peg legs that the key cap used to seat into the switch snapped causing me not be able to replace it. AKA perma damaged I forgot to mention than Romer G switches pop off all the f time which is another reason why I hate them so much.
Basically I'm telling you to avoid Romer G switches at all costs. 😅
If you need a media wheel then just get this - https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Lossless-Computer-Controller-Adjuster/dp/B01MV411BR/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=volume+wheel&qid=1550676625&s=gateway&sr=8-3
If you decide to get a Leopold and you need media keys for play, back, pause etc DM me and I can help you setup a script with Autohotkey. (I can't remember the script off the top of my head and I'm not home right now to look at it) I can provide the media control script later*
If you're ok with settling for an alternative these are two potentiometers I've been considering. An unbalanced CF is hard to find.
USB - www.amazon.com/dp/B01MV411BR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_l5urzbAKPJNGD
USB #2 - www.amazon.com/dp/B071H5XQ1F/ref=cm_sw_r_cpawdb.bvrzb2PZKAQP
3.5 in/out - www.amazon.com/dp/B00XDKKQ9E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_c8urzbT4JJPR6
Gde imam da kupim ovako nesto kod nas, ne znam sta da trazim, ne izlazi nista na guglu, itsvetu, kp itd.
https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Lossless-Computer-Controller-Adjuster/dp/B01MV411BR
I once had a keyboard with a really nice volume scroll, then they discontinued it when I went to replace it.
I got frustred with my limited options when I had the constraint of trying to find a keyboard with good volume buttons.
So I got myself a USB volume knob. The first one I got was all plastic, but it filled the void left by my keyboard, and opened up my options.
Then later this volume knob came out, a lot more metal, much heftier. I absolutely love it, more than any volume control I've had on a keyboard.
Also, that blue light only comes on while you change the volume, which I prefer.
It just feels so nice, and being able to put your volume control anywhere is super nice.
If you want to mount the knob to the bottom of your desk (which I've seen some people do) I'd suggest a plastic one.
Also worth mentioning, some people get DAC/AMPs to upgrade their audio, and some of those have volume knobs as well.
(Just trying to offer more solutions to your volume control that doesn't limit your keyboard options, that you may even enjoy more, which I do now.)
Some on r/PSVR prefer this HDMI switch box ~ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP755QH
Also, 1 of the top reviews is from a PlayStation VR user.
Sewell IBIS 4K HDMI Switch Box, 2x1, White, 4K 60 Hz, HDCP pass-through (HDCP 2.2 support), 2x1 or 1x2 HDMI Bi-Directional Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP755QH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_jvPyfyKhmK632
With these as the cables...
HDMI Cable 1.5 FT (2 Pack) - HDMI 2.0 (4K @ 60Hz) Ready - 30AWG Braided Cord - High Speed 18Gbps - Gold Plated - Ethernet / Audio Return - Video 2160p https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CRA9GU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_F3fJbh5K1QSjk
Sewell IBIS 4K HDMI Switch Box, 2x1, White, 4K 60 Hz, HDCP pass-through (HDCP 2.2 support), 2x1 or 1x2 HDMI Bi-Directional Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP755QH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_sYDSzbMWEHDDC
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06WP755QH/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522537226&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ibis+hdmi+switch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01D5H93FW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522537256&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=hdmi&dpPl=1&dpID=41mJoLIiC7L&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1
>That one isn't very good. Get this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06WP755QH/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1506803527&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=sewell+hdmi+splitter&dpPl=1&dpID=516oaVfdSbL&ref=plSrch
You press a button and it will switch to the other hdmi. Have one going to tv and one to monitor. So when your wife wants to watch tv, click the button and bam it goes to the monitor.
Deleted my rambling comments to make /u/derlex9 post more visible
This is the one I bought but there are a lot of other ones on amazon that have lots of positive reviews. I got this one only cause it had the remote as well.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0739GSKV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZSn0AbCXEZY4G
It does not. I use an external switch like this and I want to remove it. I get compatability issues with chromecast and the wiiu, and I can't connect a ps2 on it without juggling connections
HDMI Switch 4k,GANA Intelligent 3-Port HDMI Switcher,Splitter, Supports 4K, Full HD1080p, 3D with IR Remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0739GSKV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_A5xOBbKPV004D
Would likely work.
https://www.amazon.com/GANA-Intelligent-Switcher-splitter-Supports/dp/B0739GSKV2
Nothing special, but does the job perfectly fine. It's fairly small and the remote is just added convenience.
Beware : I've bought 3 HDMI switches in as many weeks. All lasted 1-4 days before I had to return them. Only good thing from this experience is that even though I was refunded via Amazon Prime, one Chinese vendor is still sending me a free one. Although I suspect it will last as long as the others lol.
The one linked below has the accommodating vendor.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0739GSKV2/
How many consoles do you have? I run an N64 and GC through a switch like this
https://www.amazon.com/d/Selector-Switch-Boxes/Panlong-Switcher-Composite-Selector-Consoles/B00KXVBB3Q
I do this as well, but I do have concern about the replug endurance of the HDMI cables. I was considering an HDMI switch but figured none would likely work.
would like to use something like this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LFX1UDM
I have this exact setup. With a PS4 though. My PC is plugged into my right monitor and then also plugged into this:
https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD8024-Bi-Directional-Switcher-Passthrough/dp/B00LFX1UDM
Which is connected to both PS4 AND PC so when I hit the button it switches between the two inputs.
First of all, no splitter will allow you to use the two displays independently, it will always duplicate displays.
The best value switch I can find is this one for HDMI
https://www.amazon.ca/Fosmon-Bi-Directional-Switcher-Passthrough-Nintendo/dp/B00LFX1UDM/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=display+port+switch&qid=1562088158&s=gateway&sr=8-4
​
Or this one (more expensive) for DP
https://www.amazon.ca/Lindy-Port-4K-DisplayPort-Switch/dp/B00ZK2S71W/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=display+port+switch&qid=1562088158&s=gateway&sr=8-6
​
For both of these you would need two adapters.
​
If you already have the USB splitter, maybe try USB to display port, but those are very expensive 60+ each
I just got 2 of these to hook up my ps4 and xbox to my big screen and monitor. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LFX1UDM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_KYelgDM51QhLZ
If you get another component that needs 4K 60Hz, you can always grab a cheap HDMI splitter(one that supports 4K 60 Hz). Like this one.
I have one and it works without issues. It does 4k60 without any problems though I haven't tried it with HDR. I suspect it won't work.
I have my PRO and PC going in and 1 single out to my TV but since it can also do single in, double out, I don't see why it wouldn't work between 2 outputs.
https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD8024-Bi-Directional-Switcher-Passthrough/dp/B00LFX1UDM
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00LFX1UDM?psc=1
I've been using a similar box for my setup for a few years and haven't had a problem.
You could try an HDMI switch. They seem to be a good bit more available than displayport.
the display is going TO the Vive, so it would be on the Output side.
it also needs to be HDMI 1.4 spec, which doesn't seem to be listed on that product's page.. so assume it's not.
maybe this one, but there's no guarantee -- https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD8024-Bi-Directional-Switcher-Passthrough/dp/B00LFX1UDM/
I have a dual PC setup and use an Elgato 4K60 Pro and use the Fosmon 1X2 bidirectional splitter.
Fosmon 2-Port HDMI Switch, HDMI 2.0, 4Kx2K, 60Hz, 2x1 or 1x2 Bi-Directional Splitter Hub Switcher, 2 Input 1 Output, Support UHD 4K 3D 1080p HDCP for HDTV, PS4, Xbox, Apple TV 4K, Roku, Fire Stick https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LFX1UDM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_z2B1Db98YXH97
I stream Switch/PC games and plan to also stream from my Xbox One and PS4 at some point so it was an easy choice to buy one of these and I use it everyday. It works great and saves you from having to switch HDMI cords and ruin your cable management. Best part is it’s only $13
Hope that helps.
I use https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LFX1UDM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I it's manual (button to toggle) so perhaps not exactly what you're looking for but it is bi-directional so has more uses if you ever want to repurpose. It is also a full switch, not a splitter so it passes through the control signals etc so you shouldnt have any communication issues (so long as your wires are good enough, can be finicky for some people on some cards.
To be clear I use it to switch between rift and tv on my HDMI port (for audio to the tv and fewer adapters to the rift). I use the vive off dvi port through a dvi to HDMI adapter (and then a long extension to its box, without issue).
I have this one. I have it set up opposite from your goal (one input, two outputs), but it shouldn't matter given that it is bi-directional. It is not perfect, but it works well for the price (e.g., sometimes I will have to toggle back and forth once to get the picture to work, but it always ends up working after that).
It works quite well honestly. I'll try to detail it out as best I can.
So ideally you need 2 PSN accounts. You don't need to have PS Plus on both. Log both your accounts in on your PS4. Set your PS4 as your primary PS4. Your main PSN account is logged into your PS4, your alternate account is used on the remote play app because you cannot log into one account in two places (PS4 + remote play). The alternate account is streaming the video + audio from the primary account.
My PS4 feeds into an HDMI splitter which runs to my TV and to my monitor. When playing on my monitor I log into remote play using my alternate account and log into my PS4 on my primary account. This starts the audio feed to my PC where my headphones + amp are. Then I switch my monitor display over to its HDMI port and then I have the video. There is absolutely no delay for me on the audio or any input lag. I have noticed some people mention input delay, but that I believe is only if you use a Dualshock 4 within remote play hooked up to your PC instead of the controller still being connected to your PS4 if that makes sense.
This and an inline volume knob maybe? I can't find anything better really.
I don’t have it but I see this one on Amazon which looks fine: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NTJET10/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AAOHAbXFB8ZMP
There are a ton available, just look up “3.5mm audio switcher” on Amazon and you’ll find a bunch.
From my looking in the past 3.5mm switchers are not that common. Here is a 2 channel switch. https://www.amazon.com/Sescom-SES-IPOD-AB-Stereo-MP3-Player/dp/B005TE7GP4#Ask
Multiple
https://www.amazon.com/Stereo-Manual-Selector-Sharing-Switch/dp/B00NTJET10/ref=sr_1_7?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1469549911&sr=1-7&keywords=audio+switch
You could also DIY one if your so inclined. It's really simple circuitry. It's just 1 signal coming in and being sent to different outputs depending on the position of the switch.
https://vsshs.com/2012/10/20/audio-switcher/
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Construct-a-35mm-Switch-diy/
You could try to use an acutal switch like this one with four ports (The two-port version is actually only 0,12 $ cheaper).
Get something like this - https://www.amazon.com/Stereo-Manual-Selector-Sharing-Switch/dp/B00NTJET10
Plug your speaker into the in/out port, then everything else into the 4 selector stereo in/out ports, then use the selector buttons to switch. You'll need some male to male 3.5mm cables as well.
I haven't gotten one myself yet, but this was recommended to me - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QJGAKCW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_aVkIybTWJ16DH
Well, it would appear that the Sony headphone's base station has two audio inputs -- not an audio input and output, unless I got the model number wrong or I'm not seeing some hidden output. That it's working at all like you expected is kind of a failure on Sony's part.
You want an HDMI switcher that also does audio extraction: https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Switcher-Selector-Extractor/dp/B00QJGAKCW
I'd also like to point out that unless you got a great deal on that Samsung monitor, you're now spending more on gear to make this setup work than you would have if you had bought an actual TV, and you're going to have a worse experience. Most TVs allow you to use the volume on the remote control to adjust the analog output for instance. It's not like you are forced to watch network TV if you buy a TV.
J-Tech Digital ® HDMI 1.4 Switch Switcher Box Selector 3 In 1 Out HDMI Audio Extractor Splitter with Optical SPDIF & RCA L/R Audio Out & Remote Control Supports ARC, MHL, Ultra HD, Full 3D, 4kx2k, 1080P (Support Apple TV 4Gen) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QJGAKCW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lrxKxbCAE3YMJ
How about something like this on the projector-out side of the switch? Never tried them myself, but it was my first thought.
https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Extractor-Optical-Converter-VHD-H2HSAs/dp/B00KBHX072
Someone might also make a switch that does it? Er...yep, looks like they do! This one gives you a choice of RCA or optical out.
https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Switcher-Selector-Extractor/dp/B00QJGAKCW
Again: no personal experience, both are just "first hit" examples.
I wonder how they'd work with content protection....siiiiiiiigh, HOLLYWOOD FUCK YOU
https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Switcher-Selector-Extractor/dp/B00QJGAKCW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1536104904&sr=8-5&keywords=hdmi+switch+w+toslink&dpID=31MBsVkubjL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
I think this may be what you need. http://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Switcher-Selector-Extractor/dp/B00QJGAKCW/
thank you :). I ended up buying https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QJGAKCW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 since I just wanted this all done :). It seems to work with netflix.
This is the switch JTech Digital HDMI 3 in 1 I have on my Sonos 5.1 setup with my 65" Samsung JS8500; it works to perfection. It does ARC perfectly when I run Netflix out of the applications SmartHub.
Also, I have a NVDIA Shield and a Blue-ray player connected as well and it process sound flawlessly.
They do have a 5 in 1 variant if you need more HDMI ports.
Manufacturer Link
I use an hdmi switch ( https://amzn.com/B00QJGAKCW ) but it's not automatic, it comes with a basic remote, so I can't say that I've noticed this.
I'm guessing the CEC on/off setting in the Settings > HDMI screen isn't what you need?
Maybe that's what you're looking for?
Someone in the review section is using it successfully with his 348Q @ 100hz but another one isn't, apparently. But maybe it's worth a shot? Seems rather inexpensive to me considering the alternatives..
Good luck :)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/LINDY-Port-Manual-DisplayPort-Switch/dp/B00ZK2S71W
Or would something like this work if I keep the 8800GT in there?
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY
Or a KVM Switch like this?
https://www.amazon.com/LINDY-Port-4K-DisplayPort-Switch/dp/B00ZK2S71W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481773724&sr=8-1&keywords=displayport+switch
That is workable. Here is what you need
https://www.amazon.com/LINDY-Port-4K-DisplayPort-Switch/dp/B00ZK2S71W
Your first wire (dedicated one), goes from your gfx card to display port switcher and then on to your central monitor.
Your second wire (daisy chaining) goes to all 3 (or just two of them, depending on what you want) of your monitors (as it does normally) .. except for your central monitor .. where it would connect to it .. via the switcher
This setup (so far) should allow you to game at the central monitor at 144hz and connect your laptop to all three of them..
Using a display port 1.4 cable at each place, should ensure everything goes smoothly, since these cables are suppose to be backward compatible. And also provide lower latency.
the Lindy DP Switcher here
Actually, I found what I was originally looking for! This switch will make two input sources (Vega and Titan via DP 1.2 in my case) and output it to one output signal (to monitor). All controlled via a tap of a button on the switch. They are called, 2x1 splitters if anyone is curious. Here's the one I bought:
LINDY 2 Port 4K DisplayPort Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZK2S71W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bm5SBbX6D4RC2
Also, monoprice makes ones but I read some reviews that it isn't as great but it's cheaper. Here's the link:
Monoprice 2x1 DisplayPort Switch, 4K@60Hz, 21.6Gbps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074KT689K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hC5SBbJ4RDQV1
Did you find a solution? I'm in a similar situation, without the spare graphics card. 4k@60hz on one DP, 2160@144hz on the second. Have to crawl under my desk to plug in the Rift.
Your best bet would probably be the 960 for your secondary monitor.
I was looking at a displayport switcher but I'm not sure it would work, with the Rift. This is what I found: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00ZK2S71W
Not sure how much, if any, lag this might introduce, but have you thought of a display port switch?
https://www.amazon.com/LINDY-Port-4K-DisplayPort-Switch/dp/B00ZK2S71W/ref=sr_1_2?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1492470189&sr=1-2&keywords=display+port+switch
Cheers.
Literally just searched "DisplayPort Switch" on Amazon...
https://www.amazon.com/LINDY-Port-4K-DisplayPort-Switch/dp/B00ZK2S71W/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=displayport+switch&qid=1572907375&sr=8-4
I have a similar issue. I found this on Amazon, but only 2 reviews.
https://www.amazon.com/LINDY-Port-4K-DisplayPort-Switch/dp/B00ZK2S71W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481773724&sr=8-1&keywords=displayport+switch
This and a active-hdmi/ds
I have a Toshiba MD20F52 that I picked up at Goodwill a while back. Need to do a few color adjustments before choosing to go further, but had a question for the future of the set. Currently, I only really use my SNES (and very rarely N64 and GC), with S-Video going into a splitter (https://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-4-Output-Component-Distribution-Amplifier/dp/B010EIK6K6), with composite out to the TV and S-Video out going to a video capture device (this looks better than just composite from the console to the TV). Would it be worth trying to add S-Video to the set, and if so, what would that process look like? I haven't found a lot of information on this set online. Thanks!
E: Fixed link
You have a couple of options. These are the things you will absolutely need:
That's about all I can think of. It's daunting at first when you're trying to imagine how everything would be set up, but I promise it's not as difficult as it sounds. If you have any other questions, just reply here and I'll do my best to answer.
https://www.amazon.com/DATA-connection-video-capture-GV-USB2/dp/B00428BF1Y
This is what I use to capture the composite output for NES, SNES, and GameCube.
https://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-4-Output-Component-Distribution-Amplifier/dp/B010EIK6K6/ref=pd_aw_sim_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=K1A3NZAMXQP3GN77DATJ
This is what I use to split the output of the console (1 to the TV and 1 to the gv usb2).
Edit: changed component to composite because I had a lapse of thinking when I wrote it initially
I also have everything from an nes to the ps4/switch, and what I do is use an rca amplifier and splitter (to keep the signal strong, otherwise it looks dark on my TV), and then I run one video signal to my HD upscaler and then to my elgato capture card, and I run the other video signal straight to my TV. I then take the rca audio that would normally output to my TV, and instead pipe it directly to an analog mixer with USB. The other audio output goes to my upscaler so the audio and video is perfectly synced on the capture card. This gives me zero latency play on the TV and zero latency audio in my headphones, and furthermore allows independent audio control between the stream and my headphones, so I can crank the game volume if needed to listen for gameplay cues.
For hdmi audio, I use an hdmi splitter and run one to my monitor which has a headphone jack - I run this audio to my mixer using a 3.5mm to stereo rca adapter cable, and the other goes to my capture card. Same result, perfectly synced audio for the stream and perfectly synced, independent volume adjustment for my headphones.
You can do this without a mixer by just using a cable adapter to plug into your pc's line in, but there may be some latency involved and any adjustment you do for your headphones will also affect the volume on the stream. Still, a decent USB audio mixer is a good $100 or more, so it helps to do it that way instead if you're on a budget.
Edit: you can do the same with component video, s video, and rbg too, if you buy the right av distribution device. So an rgb modded nes or a ps2/GC can run at their best, if you have the cash to spend on the amplifiers/splitters and upscalers.
Generally the dual s-video/composite cables are poorly shielded and the brightness will be decreased due to having an unpowered split.
Something such as this would solve that problem and allow you to use a better shielded s-video only cable:
https://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-4-Output-Component-Distribution-Amplifier/dp/B010EIK6K6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538597037&sr=8-3&keywords=s-video+distribution+amplifier
It also converts s-video to composite so you can play composite on your TV and still capture in s-video.
Try one of these. https://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-1500320-Component-Distribution-Amplifier/dp/B010EIK6K6
The passthrough feature only works on component signals I think, and it spits out HDMI which can introduce lag if you're sensitive to it.
I use this Radioshack splitter, mostly because it's powered to prevent signal loss
I am using an amplified splitter. Specifically, I am using this amp splitter:
RadioShack 1500320 1-Input/4-Output A/V Component Video Sound S-Video Distribution Amplifier Splitter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010EIK6K6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Y3XZDb1HMYPB4
Adding a subwoofer to studio monitors is difficult, especially for a moderate system like you are proposing. It won’t be pretty, unless splitting the RCA/TRS cables. You’d have to convert computer audio to RCA, the. Plug that into something like this, then go 2x RCA->TRS to speakers and 2x RCA to sub.
I would get a Rythmik LV12R (ported) or L12 (sealed) over that SVS, much better.
EDIT: It’s easier to go with SVS, as it has RCA outputs.
Finally a question I can actually answer. For just normal Red/Yellow/White A/V cables I use this setup.
Option 1
Is there any reason you want HDMI? You can keep steps 1 and 2 from above and use something like this instead.
I can also answer any question you have.
https://www.amazon.com/Zettaguard-Wireless-Switcher-Switches-ZW410/dp/B01BV1XBIY/
Yeah, you'd want something like this HDMI switcher. There's a 3 way switch there too. There are plenty of companies selling them. This is just one of them, so see where you can find the best reviews. This is just the first came across. You'll be able to plug everything in at once and press the button on the switch or on the remote to cycle between them. Keep in mind that there's a good chance your monitor doesn't have speakers, this would complicate things a bit for your consoles.
A friend had me set up 4 $30 11in chineese tablets from amazon in a frame and put one cam on each tablet, worked great
(Crappy tablets but ran the nest app fine)
You could set up multiple Raspberry Pi, bring a cam feed up on each pi, and connect their video output through a multiplexer and connect that to your TV
Orei Quad Multi-Viewer 4x1 HDMI Switcher 4 Ports Seamless Switch and IR Remote Support 1080P for PS4/PC/Stb/DVD/Security Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H5TF6X2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rmYWDbEZCFB3E
Zettaguard 4K x 2K 4 Port 4 x 1 HDMI Switch with PIP (Picture in Picture)and IR Wireless Remote Control, HDMI Switcher Hub Port Switches for PS4 Xbox Apple TV Fire Stick Blu-Ray Player (ZW410) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BV1XBIY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4mYWDbWYRC2DZ
Thats actually what i do haha! I have my Wii U, PC, and ps4 (also my n64 hooked up with a up scaler but I took that off a bit ago)
There are items called HDMI switchers, this is the one i have
and then I have an audio wire (the green wire from pc speakers) plugged into my audio output from my monitor,
I'll ninja edit a picture of my settup
Edit:settup
since the HDMI cable sends audio signals through my monitor, the speaker wire will take it in through the audio out port on the back of my monitor.
You can get switches that can handle 4K at 60Hz (making them future-proof in case you upgrade your TVs at some point) for less than half as much as your device cost and there are even cheaper ones that are equivalent to your device, starting at around 15 bucks. Some of these have more advanced features, like picture in picture. This is quite handy, I've used this to watch over a download on a games console while watching something else on most of the screen, just to name one application (my screen already comes with this feature).
What I noticed is that most manufacturers appear to avoid naming the specific HDMI standard their devices support, at least on shop pages (it's often only in the manuals). However, by looking at the specs and comparing them to this table, it's usually not that hard to figure out which version of HDMI is being supported.
For the soundbar, they're generally not recommended on this sub.
That being said, if you absolutely have to have one and don't want recommendations for a receiver/speaker setup, Vizio is probably the best value for the money. This 3.1 model is $220 and will have a wireless sub.
As for the switch you posted, that won't work for your setup because it only has 3 inputs. You want one that does 4X1, which will be something like this.
This one auto switches for me. It's powered off my TVs USB and has been pretty good for two years now.
I bought this about 9 months ago. It's works great and can be powered off the tv's usb port.
I hadn't had issues with the built-in switch in my audio receiver so far, but the HDMI switch I used before I got my sound system was a mess when it came to this. When I would play on my PS4, the screen would go black for a few seconds then back to the PS4. It only did it when the Switch was docked so I knew that was the culprit. If you're looking for an HDMI switch and you own a Switch, avoid this one in the meantime because you WILL have issues.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BV1XBIY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Would it work, do you think, to have 3 of:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BV1XBIY?psc=1
Box 1 would be main monitor and keyboard, mouse, etc. 2nd and 3rd would be additional displays.
I have this one and it works beautifully. no complaints.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BV1XBIY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
My wife and I currently live in a small apartment, so, admittedly, we sit WAY to close to the screen given how big I have it set (it's about 85in and we sit maybe seven feet back, which is a bit too close). The good thing about a projector, by the way, is that the screen size is variable. We've taken it places before and blown it up to its max height (130 inches, I think?), and I've taken it places and set it MUCH smaller as well.
Speakers aren't hard to set up. There are really two options for setting them up. The first is to go into your device (Playstation, BR player, whatever) and tell it to output the audio through a cable other than the HDMI output (which is what they do by default), you'll then have two cables running out of your speaker: 1. HDMI going to the projector, and 2. one of the various sorts of audio cables going out to the speakers. This can get messy if you have multiple devices, however, as you'll need an audio switcher, and you may run out of HDMI ports on the back of the projector.
Your second option is to buy something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Switch-Optical-Extractor-Splitter-Supports/dp/B01K7BZ1XC/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1484149764&sr=1-10&keywords=hdmi+switch
With this you plug in each of your devices via HDMI. You then run one HDMI cable to the projector and one sound cable to the speakers. The box splits the HDMI single for you and it acts as a switch between your devices. I personally use this box and love it (I run a firestick, PS3, and a region free blu-ray player into my projector and speakers).
And feel free to keep asking questions, please. =)
You can keep the current capture card and just duplicate your display using windows settings or nvidia control panel. Then use an hdmi splitter with an analog output to snag game sound for headphones.
Example of hdmi splitter: 3x1 V1.4 HDMI Switch with TOSLINK Optical SPDIF & RCA L/R Audio Out, 3 Port HDMI Audio Extractor Splitter with Remote, Supports ARC, 4kx2k@30hz, Full 3D, 1080P https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K7BZ1XC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3Ht4Ab8DY0WQG
I'm planning on doing a similar thing with my PC, xbone, and switch. I was looking at this and paring it with this. I have no idea how well this will work tho
Yup, or you can use something like this.
Replace your HDMI switch with one that has audio extraction
like this
Is anyone using their switch with a DAC? I'm trying to get my PC set up with some new speakers, which will be powered through a DAC/AMP combo. Currently I have some cheap Logitech speakers, which are also connected to my Switch through my monitor (Switch -> HDMI -> Monitor -> 3.5mm -> Speakers).
Unfortunately this method won't work with my new audio setup, so I need to connect my Switch to my DAC somehow. I've tried a direct USB connection through the dock, but the audio still goes over HDMI to my monitor, instead of to the DAC. I've heard that the Switch is supposed to work with DACs, so I'm a little confused here. How do I make the audio go to the DAC instead of to the monitor?
Do I need an HDMI splitter like this? In that case I would have (Switch -> HDMI -> Splitter), and then (Splitter -> HDMI -> Monitor) and (Splitter -> Optical -> DAC -> AMP -> Speakers). Would that work? Or is there a way to connect the Switch directly to the DAC while preventing the audio from going over HDMI to the monitor?
My DAC is a Schiit Modi 3, BTW.
Hello again!
With this device would I be able to connect both my PS3 and PS4 to this via HDMI, and extract audio from both of them with a single optical audio and extract video from both of them with a single HDMI cable? (Because later I realized I only have one HDMI on my monitor.)
I'll try that when I get home. It's worth a shot.
I'm also eyeing https://www.amazon.com/Switch-Optical-Extractor-Splitter-Supports/dp/B01K7BZ1XC/
It looks like that would solve the problem and give me optical out that I need, but I'm not sure.
You can use a HDMI Switch/splitter like this one.
The one I purchased does support DTS. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K7BZ1XC?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I have spent an illogical amount of time watching these audio lag tests and have not once thought to put it in slow-motion! That is a brilliant idea, and I will be doing that as soon as I get home today. Glad to know that the HDMI splitter / audio extractor helped. Do mind sharing which one you have? I'm eying this one, but am indecisive.
https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Lossless-Computer-Controller-Adjuster/dp/B01MV411BR
https://www.amazon.com/Griffin-Technology-NA16029-Multimedia-Controller/dp/B003VWU2WA/
I'm looking into different options for a desktop volume control knob, similar to this one
However... I figured if I'm going to spend $40 on something like this.. maybe there are DAC/Amps that could do the same thing for around the same price.. or even a little more. Do any of you know of an item like this?
I just ordered a Sennheiser HD558 Cs. I may eventually upgrade, but at the moment, I don't require a DAC/Amp, just looking for versatility and thinking about future proofing this purchase.
TIL the existence of auto hotkey :)
installed it and made a simple script to get F9-11 to increase, lower, mute the volume. Works like a charm.
Of course if I actually need those keys I'll have to remember to disable it, but I think overall this solves my problem.
No lie, I was about 5 mins away from ordering something like this: https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Lossless-Computer-Controller-Adjuster/dp/B01MV411BR?keywords=usb+volume+knob&qid=1540689669&sr=8-3&ref=sr_1_3
It's half the cost of the keyboard, but I really am used to having a quick volume control on hand.
Interesting. I saw references to UCR when I was working on getting my warthog throttle working with star citizen.
These are the ones I'm interested in (especially the Griffin one), but they don't say anything about MIDI. Do you think one might be able to be turned into a virtual joystick slider using UCR?
https://www.amazon.com/Griffin-Technology-NA16029-Multimedia-Controller/dp/B003VWU2WA
https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Lossless-Computer-Controller-Adjuster/dp/B01MV411BR
Edit: Actually I just realized the griffin is discontinued and sold out or overpriced most places... I guess the other one is ok too.
Its rather large but this volume knob should work.
I'm using the Ibis from Sewell on my LG TV with no problems:
https://www.amazon.com/Sewell-Switch-pass-through-support-Bi-Directional/dp/B06WP755QH/
Yeah, I suppose a little rig info would have helped. I have a
Samsung js7000 suhd tv with one UHD port.
>PS4 pro > single Ibis input
>Ibis output 1 > second switch(to TV)
>Ibis output 2 > PSVR "TO PS4" hdmi port on processor unit.
>Processor unit to second switch(TV)
These and these are the cables I've tried in various combinations with the PS4 pro hdmi that came with the system.
Like I said, all of the hdmi cables from the ps4 to tv support RGB and HDR.
HDR is not supported on either channel of the Ibis switch on a tv that is HDR capable. Both channels on the switch shows that HDR is not supported and can not work due to the vr processor, which leads me to believe that the only signal being picked up is the vr processor, and not that of the ps4 pro.
I'd suggest a switch instead of a splitter. The Sewell Ibis does the trick.
Link
Here is a YouTube Video showing the setup you need.
I just set mine up today. So far it works as advertised.
I wanted to avoid going to the back of the TV to change cables so I'm using this HDMI switch, it supports 4k HDR pass through with HDCP 2.2
There is a cable diagram and more information / other solutions on this NeoGAF thread about this issue.
I'm using this. It works great. HDMI 2.0 and HDCP 2.2.
That one isn't very good. Get this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06WP755QH/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1506803527&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=sewell+hdmi+splitter&dpPl=1&dpID=516oaVfdSbL&ref=plSrch
You press a button and it will switch to the other hdmi. Have one going to tv and one to monitor. So when your wife wants to watch tv, click the button and bam it goes to the monitor.
They all usually auto switch. When I had an elaborate setup I just went with a $5-$7 one off Amazon. Had 3 inputs and came with a basic remote. Worked fine even without using the power cord. For reference I was using a cable box, PS4, and htpc Which later changed to a fire stick. It was just like this https://www.amazon.com/GANA-Intelligent-Switcher-splitter-Supports/dp/B0739GSKV2 but it was about 4-5yrs ago so it was minus the 4K of this one. hth
First, questions.
Now, a suggestion.
Anyway, some options.
^(Notes)
^(- None of these options should introduce lag, but if you get a splitter or switch box, make sure they're noted with low-latency and check the reviews.)
^(- You could stream the game to your TV with something like the Steam Link... but your TV is in the same room as the PC-- hell from the sounds of it, it's within the same arm's reach as the TV. Streaming it is alright if the system and the TV were across the house, but its a needlessly complicated and clunky idea in this situation.)
^(- If you do use a hardware solution, keep in mind that the small consumer boxes can only use cables of a reasonable length. Generally speaking, you shouldn't use a cable longer than 9ft from the box to your TV, or the wire won't carry the signal to the display. Longer than that, you'll probably need a) ^(signal repeater)^(.)
If you have any questions, let me know. I hope this helps you find your answer.
EDIT: More info.
So, this is going to be somewhat of a silly setup, but you’re going to need an RCA splitter, an RCA to HDMI converter, and an HDMI splitter. I’ve used several hdmi splitters in the past and they’ve all been fairly solid, but I can’t vouch for the RCA splitters. Speaking from experience, the trickiest part is getting proper 5.1 audio if you have a surround sound system as most TVs only pass stereo. But, if you’re using the TV’s speakers you’ll be just fine anyway. Not sure what your budget is, but here’s something to get you started:
AuviPal 4-Way RCA Switcher 4 in 1 Out Composite Video L/R Audio AV Selector Box for DVD VCR VHS/AV Receiver/Game Consoles
and...
RCA to HDMI, GANA 1080P Mini RCA Composite CVBS AV to HDMI Video Audio Converter Adapter Supporting PAL/NTSC with USB Charge Cable for PC Laptop Xbox PS4 PS3 TV STB VHS VCR Camera DVD
Then as many male to male RCA cables as you need.
Finally the hdmi splitter:
HDMI Switch 4k,GANA Intelligent 3-Port HDMI Switcher,Splitter, Supports 4K, Full HD1080p, 3D with IR Remote
^ yeah just get a hdmi switch, they're relatively cheap. I picked up this hdmi switch https://www.amazon.com/GANA-Intelligent-Switcher-Splitter-Supports/dp/B0739GSKV2/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1542838818&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=hdmi+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=51PZQ4cdHEL&ref=plSrch lets me connect my secondary gaming pc, ps3, and xbox 360 to my TV, Been working just fine so far. Also came with a remote to let me switch between devices
Buy a HDMI Switcher. You can get some on Amazon that some with remotes.
Like this:
HDMI Switch 4k,GANA Intelligent 3-Port HDMI Switcher,splitter, Supports 4K, Full HD1080p, 3D with IR Remote
HDMI Switch 4k,GANA Intelligent 3-Port HDMI Switcher,Splitter, Supports 4K, Full HD1080p, 3D with IR Remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0739GSKV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iqvQCbVYBFWP4
Something like that would do it
use the HDMI out from your PC, Switch and PS4 and run into an HDMI switch:
​
https://www.amazon.com/GANA-Intelligent-Switcher-Splitter-Supports/dp/B0739GSKV2/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=hdmi+switch&qid=1555316855&s=electronics&sr=1-4
​
Connect HDMI out from above to HDMI IN on audio extractor: https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Extractor-Optical-Toslink-Converter/dp/B00KBHX072?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1
​
use this cable to convert your HDMI video coming out of the audio extractor to DVI and run to your LCD : https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Input-Output-Adapter-Cable/dp/B014I8UQJY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=hdmi+to+dvi&qid=1555316493&s=gateway&sr=8-3
​
Run RCA audio cables out of the audio extractor (above) and connect to your RCA AUDIO INPUTS on your LCD - you don't need 5.1 or surround sound for onboard stereo speakers analog L/R is fine.
​
Hope this helps.
Anyone who is curious, I went with a super cheap option ($10) and it works just fine for now, no noticeable loss in video.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0739GSKV2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You've got two basic options, an HDMI Audio Extracter or a Digital to analog audio converter. The converter will probably be cheaper.
Note: I haven't used these particular products and have supplied their links as suggestions of products to look for. They SHOULD work for your intended purpose, but I can't guarantee anything, read reviews, but they should get you headed in the right direction if they themselves aren't what you need.
This. We use the HDMI to HDMI with audio jack for the hen we do competitions. Works great!
Edit: here is what we use!!
avedio links HDMI to HDMI + Optical Toslink SPDIF + 3.5mm AUX Stereo Audio Out
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H94D77V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1tqqDb9H14FQM
not all headsets require an optical output. Some of the 5.1 or 7.1 headsets don't work that great either.
But that's one reason I have bigger model rather and a slim. All you need is a splitter off of the HDMI if you need optical.
https://www.amazon.com/avedio-links-Extractor-Splitter-Converter/dp/B07H94D77V/
I'm not sure if that's the cheapest or best one. just found one to link for you.
Some headsets are not comfortable and get hot. I'd give it a little more research but I think your best solution is some open back sennheiser headsets and mute your mics.
Perhaps something like this would work for you?
https://www.amazon.com/avedio-links-Extractor-Splitter-Converter/dp/B07H94D77V/
Never tried them myself.
Also, what type of input does your sub have?
Thank you so much for replying! I'm following what you're saying at a really basic level but that sounds a bit like another language to me. I don't mean to take up much more of your time but could you possibly send me a couple of links for the products needed for whichever of the two options you described above would be cheapest (I'm guessing the second option)? I'll hop online now as well to try to find products that match your description. Thanks again friend.
EDIT: Would this work?? It seems like this has a 3.5 mm out so I might not need a phono L/R to 3.5 mm socket adapter (not exactly sure what that is yet)?? https://www.amazon.com/avedio-links-Extractor-Splitter-Converter/dp/B07H94D77V
Bluetooth can sound pretty good, but it's variable depending on the specific protocols each piece of equipment supports. Ultimately, though, using wireless for a permanent connection is sort of silly. You'd be better-off with an HDMI ARC extractor.
These headphones can supposedly decode and reproduce multi-channel audio like DTS and Pro-Logic II. I'm not expecting to recreate my full speaker setup, but ideally I could use the Virtual Surround feature to some extent. Correct me if I'm wrong.
Doing a bit of digging, would something like this converter work?
An alternative would be to use a digital out directly from the source, but my primary media devices (AppleTV and Sony UBP-X700) don't have a digital out.
I haven't tried it but what if you use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/avedio-links-Extractor-Splitter-Converter/dp/B07H94D77V/ref=pd_sbs_23_t_0/144-5444921-2325455?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07H94D77V&pd_rd_r=902ed8e7-fc83-4fd9-a571-45cf1f2f7bc9&pd_rd_w=hJI8M&pd_rd_wg=V0FyX&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=YKADZBMQABMM1VBSJZBG&psc=1&refRID=YKADZBMQABMM1VBSJZBG
​
Use a chromecast (the normal hdmi one) and adapt it to this for 3.5mm out ?
I assume a couple of these with the correct, analog cables running into the mixer would suffice.
from the tv into the z906.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H94D77V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I bought this yesterday, hasnt arrived yet. I now feel that this may be the wrong choice? L:/
Contacted TCL and they told me that it wont work because the CEC wouldnt pick up that connection.
That it "only picks up HDMI to HDMI connections" But I feel like this is- technically-suitable, well see?
How about an a/v switcher?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0032ANC8M/ref=cm_sw_su_dp
this
Just use the audio part of it, and hook the inputs/outputs in reverse. This means that you want the amps to be on the inputs of the device (say 1 and 2), and the DAC on the output.
These aren't polarized and allow flow in both directions, so instead of switching source device (DAC) you're switching the output device.
Here is the switcher that I use. My tv has s video input so it works great because I can use systems that output s video or composite with this one. Here is an s video cable that would work for both your SNES and your N64. Here is a composite cable that would work with your model 1 Sega Genesis, and Here would be am example of composite cables that would work with you NES.
As for the surge protector, here is the one I use and I really like it because it can hold a lot of the big power bricks that these older consoles like to use. Anyway hope that helped point you in the right direction. Of course it is a little bit of an investment, but overall I bet you will be much happier with a set up like this. I know personally I could never go back to constantly physically switching consoles out when I want to play them, this makes it so much easier to enjoy all my consoles with minimal effort. Good luck on your set up!
https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-28750-Composite-Selector/dp/B0032ANC8M?ie=UTF8&keywords=s%20video%20switch&qid=1463513498&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
There's soneone giving a review that says you need remove two resistors and two capacitors. I did it (no soldering required) you just clip them off an after that the image looks really good.
There's a light shadow effect that never bothered me but check screenshots first
http://www.amazon.com/Cables-Go-28750-Composite-Selector/dp/B0032ANC8M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1331157098&sr=8-1
I have two of these, IMO they work quite well. Don't go too cheap, otherwise you'll just get a useless paperweight.
This is definitely possible, but depends on your current setup. If you are using RCA cables for your audio signal, a simple box like this should do fine. That box also handles video, but won't work for newer cables such as HDMI.
Once you get into digital audio and video things get more complicated, but it sounds like that shouldn't be an issue for you.
If you post exactly what audio and video equipment you have, I can be more specific.
I can’t seem to find one on Amazon at the moment, but back in the day I bought a 4 input AV (you know, the yellow and red/white RCA connections) switcher that had an IR remote control, with this I was able to automatically switch it with a Logitech Harmony remote. By the end, I was using it just to switch audio into my amplifier,
Anyway fast forward to today with home automation. If I was in your shoes I’d get that exact same switch and use a Broadlink RM Pro with Home Assistant to Control the input source selection via IR commands sent from Home Assistant.
There was another passive switch I had before the one with the IR Control (I got tired of getting up and changing it) it was literally passive and the press of one of the 4 buttons would connect the RCA connections to the output connection terminals. Maybe a switch like this could be taken apart and connected to a bunch of relays controlled via your Pi’s GPIO.
Edit: here’s the passive switch that could be taken apart and wired to relays: C2G/Cables to Go 4x2 S-Video + Composite Video + Stereo Audio Selector Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0032ANC8M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vnWNBbSJWG6VM
For digital audio you can get devices like this to convert it to analog and then connect it to the passive switch: PROZOR Digital to Analog Converter DAC Digital SPDIF Toslink to Analog Stereo Audio L/R Converter Adapter with Optical Cable for PS3 Xbox HD DVD PS4 Home Cinema Systems AV Amps Apple TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5pWNBbPM4GDN8
(This is what I did back in the day with the third generation Apple TV’s optical output)
You understand correctly. Something like the Cables to Go audio/video selector switch or Recton VS1002 A/V switcher would work well, but have a look at some other options as there may well be something a little more compact or that looks better. Also search for "a/b switch". You could even use this tiny Sescom A/B switch.
Non-mobile: this
^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?
I'm guessing something like this would work
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0032ANC8M?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
I don't know any reciever that does apt-x. This is probably the cheapest receiver with preouts and a zone 2. It'll do Zone 2 pre amplifier or at amplifier level, depending on what you need and still let you do 7.1. Run the surround or surround back preouts to something like this, hook up the output from your computer and input to your computer speakers here as well. Sorry it's not cheaper, but preouts aren't cheap. If you have passive speakers (ones with a separate amp), you can make it work with any surround receiver with a different switch
Just turn the HDMI switch around and plug the output into the pc and the input into the 2 monitors. When you hit the button to switch inputs it will switch monitors.
It should also automatically detect the new monitor and change resolutions automatically since it will now be a direct connection to the new monitor.
https://www.amazon.com/EnjoyGadgets-Switcher-Selector-Support-Switching/dp/B003AQD5W6\
Even comes with a remote.
http://i.imgur.com/aDdEDkY.png
I know the feeling... I'm currently at full capacity and I'll need to buy something like this when I finally decide to splurge on a PS4
And a WiiU and xbone in 10 years...
Something like this
Don't show them as duplicated because they will both display at the same time. If you want something cool and remotely controlled check out the below link. If you want something free then just right click the desktop go to graphics settings or display settings and only enable one at a time. But this switch is cheap for how cool it is.
https://www.amazon.com/EnjoyGadgets-Switcher-Selector-Support-Switching/dp/B003AQD5W6
Thanks! I ended up going with this one. http://www.amazon.ca/EnjoyGadgets-Switcher-Selector-Control-Switching/dp/B003AQD5W6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1347161136&sr=8-1
I don't think it does. [This] (http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Switcher-Toslink-Digital-Coaxial/dp/B003L14WB8/ref=cm_wl_huc_item) Monoprice device has DAC i think.
It might be cheaper to get an AV selection switch that lets you plug in multiple hdmi sources with one video output an maybe a couple different audio outputs. Then get a Yamaha with audio and phono inputs. Get one of those for $100-$150. Or an SMSL type desktop amp with Analog and Phono in.
https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-Audio-R-S202BL-Stereo-Receiver
​
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Blackbird-Switch-Toslink-Extractor
AFAIK you'd need a converter like this one. Or if you don't want to mess around converting video signals, an HDMI switch would also work.
You should try to get the VGA HD AV cable listed on this page. After that, you would need a VGA swticher and an RCA cable switcher. You may be able to find both functionalities in the same box if you look hard.
So it has two RCA connectors?
If so, it has a single stereo input, and what you need is a selector switch to give you multiple stereo inputs.
As below, you need something like this, just ignore the video channel (yellow)
>RCA switchers, but they all seem to be too expensive
[this] (http://www.amazon.com/niceEshop-Composite-Selector-Switch-Splitter/dp/B004T8KZCM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415488695&sr=8-1&keywords=rca+switch) is $3, what makes you say they're too expensive?
>not exactly what I need
It seems to be exactly what you need, no?
BTW - we have a purchase advice thread, it should be at the very top of your screen and mentioned no less than 3 times in the process of posting.
RCA splitter or switch?
Just got my first headphone amp and DAC. Amp only has one RCA input and I want to run my phono preamp into the amp along with input from the DAC. Is there any downside to using a split RCA cable (something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01MRVF9XJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_ArTpzbSKYTD4R) as opposed to a switch (something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B004T8KZCM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_sqTpzbRMQQKP9)?
Obviously I would only be running one source at a time.
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/Composite-Audio-Selector-Switch-Splitter/dp/B004T8KZCM"&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; should work for the DVD player, the direcTV, and even the Chromebook, but you're kids screwed for Chromecast.
http://www.amazon.com/niceeshop-Composite-Selector-Switch-Splitter/dp/B004T8KZCM
There are several ways to accomplish what you are looking for, I'l list the most common. The cheapest and easiest way would be through an RCA switch like the one located at http://www.amazon.com/Composite-Audio-Selector-Switch-Splitter/dp/B004T8KZCM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1425623481&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=RCA+switch They are fairly easy and essentially turn your one input into two or more. You could also get an A/V Receiver but that sounds a little overkill. Most will, however, upscale those older devices to proper 1080p resolution. The chances of finding a TV with that many RCA inputs in this day and age are pretty slim as little to no devices use those connections anymore, although if you looked around I'm sure you could find one. Hope that helps!
Isn't there a switch in the base for the turtle beach?
The xbone will have optical out for audio and on the PC is fine with the RCA cable.
Just switch the switch on the the beach. And change inputs on the receiver.
Hah I thought u ere talking about the same tb headset i have its a wireless one with a base that u can select inputs on.
However, get an RCA input selector from radio shack /walmart and have it go out to the receiver. Does the monitor for Xbox have an audio out? I picked up a 27" ASUS that has audio out so I HDMI in from my ps3 and 3.5mm out to my stereo.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004T8KZCM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1374196755&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SL75
HDMI splitters that happen to be HDCP strippers. Stuff like:
https://www.amazon.com/BG-520-splitter-switcher-XBOX360-Blu-ray/dp/B0089DSLMY
But you need to carefully read the reviews, as models change over time, and some of items are less reliable than others.
This seems close to what you're talking about. Check to see if I'm right.
https://www.amazon.ca/CVID-Appliances-BG-520-Splitter-Switcher/dp/B0089DSLMY/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
https://www.amazon.com/BG-520-splitter-switcher-XBOX360-Blu-ray/dp/B0089DSLMY This splitter will remove the HDCP encryption. Im currently using one with my Fire TV.
1080p60:
Expensive but works great: Magewell (I've used/owned both of these)https://www.amazon.com/Magewell-HDMI-Video-Capture-Dongle/dp/B00I16VQOY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538331502&sr=8-3&keywords=magewell+usb+3.0+hdmi+video+capture+dongle
https://www.amazon.com/Magewell-USB-Capture-HDMI-Plus/dp/B01N16ZM2M/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1538331502&sr=8-4&keywords=magewell+usb+3.0+hdmi+video+capture+dongle
Cheaper but works great: iMillet (archtoasty uses this)https://www.amazon.com/Imillet-Capture-USB3-0-Drive-Free-Windows/dp/B07BSC3P7L/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538331556&sr=8-1&keywords=imillet%2Busb%2B3.0&th=1
Note: with the first magewell and the imillet you'll also want an hdmi splitter:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0089DSLMY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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I don't know of any decent 4k60 PCIe cards for linux. Magewell maybe but I've not been able to get my hands on one. With linux as far as PCIe goes I wouldn't trust anything except magewell. Plenty of USB devices around that work for 1080p though.
https://www.amazon.com/BG-520-splitter-switcher-XBOX360-Blu-ray/dp/B0089DSLMY
I haven't tried it myself, but I've been told if you buy something like this, you can use it on the PSTV.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0089DSLMY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This will fix it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0089DSLMY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Use it all the time when I run into HDCP issues
I ordered this one the other day, tried it today was able to record video to my capture card
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0089DSLMY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Just got the 500 on refurb and needed this to use the HDMI output of my cable box, so I pick up this lil splitter. Working like a champ! I have one output to the TV in my guest room, and the other to the Slingbox, which is hooked up via looong HDMI to a TV in the next room (office). The LEDs on it are really bright, I may tape over or remove them completely.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0089DSLMY/
I think you need an HDMI splitter like this one.
I use this one. I'm lazy and take full advantage of it's Auto-Sensing capabilities.
http://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-Auto-sensing-Switch-5--2-out/dp/B00DSQMVKU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408382747&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=s-video+switch (how did you guys get your links so clean?)
You need a a/v switch. This might work, I haven't used it so I can't say for sure.
http://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-Auto-sensing-Switch-5-2-out/dp/B00DSQMVKU
Not sure what the bot did, here's another link just in case: https://www.amazon.com/Auto-sensing-V-Switch-5-2-out/dp/B00DSQMVKU
The standard elgato may not be a great choice for twitch, since there is a ~2 second delay that can be a bit of an annoyance.
You basically need:
A capture card
GV-USB2 is pretty great quality for SD, but installing the drivers is entirely in japanese. They're pretty easy to figure out by just hitting random buttons and guessing, but people have made guides for "hit these buttons in this order". Once you set it up, it'll work perfectly from then on. The Dazzle DVC 100 used to be a pretty common choice, but I think the GV-USB2 is honestly better (I have a Dazzle, and even I'll admit the GV-USB2 is better).
As far as a splitter/switch, unpowered splitter cables would be fine, such as these plugged into the side of your NES, just make sure you get RCA cables that match up to go to your TV and to your capture card. If you want to get the best picture quality, a powered splitter/switch like this one will give a slightly better picture and will give you room to hook up more consoles as well (since it is a switch as well).
As for software, the standard entry-level streaming software is OBS, and for free software, it honestly is pretty great. If you want to spend money, there's some other good stuff out there, but OBS does everything you'd probably want to do. If you want something a bit better for a timer than your iPhone, try LiveSplit. You can setup splits to keep track of your pace (though considering how short the WR is, just a basic timer is probably fine, this will just allow you to let people watching on youtube or twitch see your timer too).
If you need any help otherwise, let me know.
Auto-sensing AV switch is what I use:
http://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-Auto-sensing-Switch-5-2-out/dp/B00DSQMVKU
Very convenient, jumps over to whatever console gets powered on. But really any AV switch will do.
Just use something like this then:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DSQMVKU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1409890048&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SX200_QL40
You may need a couple extra adapters/couplers to get all of your audio cables to match up between the RCA jacks and headphone jacks of everything involved, but that'll be the easiest way to switch, and it's auto sensing. Also, for the playstation you'll need to use the AV cable with the yellow/red/white plugs on it to get audio because you'll have no way of getting it out of the HDMI unless that monitor has an audio out
UPDATE:
I got off early from work yesterday and took some time to troubleshoot my TV. I discovered the issue was my AV switch. It is this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DSQMVKU/
Until this point I thought this was a great switch but I think its auto-sensing hardware was causing the malfunction. It could also have something to do with the up-conversion from composite to S-Video. You can turn it to manual switching mode but it doesn't clear up the problem. I dug out an old mechanical AV switch and all my video flickering went away.
So what isn't working from the SPDIF from the tv to the receiver?
Both the xbox and PS3 have optical SPDIF so you can do HDMI to the tv, and SPDIF to your receiver for those two sources.
So really the question is if you're doing OTA antenna tv and spdif from the tv to the receiver, does that work right now?
EDIT: you'll also need an SPDIF switcher since your AVR only has a single SPDIF input.
threesome
http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-TOSLINK-Digital-Optical-Switcher/dp/B00G188Z7A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1396290965&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=optical+switcher
Get an optical switch.
4 in 2 out. Send one out to your 5.1 system, the other to your headphone DAC if your 5.1 system doesn’t have a headphone out.
https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-TOSLINK-Digital-Optical-Switcher/dp/B00G188Z7A
I've been using this for the past few years and it works well.
http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-TOSLINK-Digital-Switcher-VHD-TS3X1/dp/B00G188Z7A?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00
Your hypothetical setup ought to work. I've never really heard of a standalone phono pre with an optical output though.
Cheap RCA > optical converter
Optical switch
I wouldn’t buy it.
Depends on your needs but something like this
ViewHD SPDIF | TOSLINK Digital Optical Audio Switcher 3x1 with Remote | Three Inputs to One Output | Model: VHD-TS3X1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G188Z7A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_K9cHDbDQ2HJZ4
Gets the job done.
Just search for an audio switch online. Cheaper and just as effective options exist.
How about an optical switch like this one? I'm not recommending that switch in particular, it's just the first one that came up in a google search.
Edit: Sorry, misunderstood your issue. I guess this would depend on your TV and what audio outputs it has. Because you definitely need to plug the Chromecast directly into your TV, then the audio out will have to go to your soundbar.
Get one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-TOSLINK-Digital-Optical-Switcher/dp/B00G188Z7A
I used to have the optical from 2 TV's and an Xbox running into this..
ViewHD SPDIF | TOSLINK Digital... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G188Z7A?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Check out this one: http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-TOSLINK-Digital-Optical-Switcher/dp/B00G188Z7A
While I haven't used the optical switcher, I have used their HDMI switcher and it worked perfectly. Seems to have great reviews!
I see, not a particularly easy to mesh set of components to put together but this should allow you to use optical on all sources for surround sound
http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-TOSLINK-Digital-Optical-Switcher/dp/B00G188Z7A
I bought this one and it works great. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00G188Z7A/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This one here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G188Z7A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It's been working well so far - it has an IR receiver with a 3 foot cord and a 3m pad so you can stick it wherever you want.
link
Try google first
The best way to go about this is to get some sort of RCA stereo switch. You don't need anything fancy. I use this:
Fosmon A1602 RCA Splitter with 3-Way Audio, Video RCA Switch Box + RCA Cable for Connecting 3 RCA Output Devices to Your TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HNCPR92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_34T4Ab1ZHH6BA
You'll go:
Turntable to pre-amp to switch
CD player to switch
Switch to speakers. Then just click the button to whatever source you're using.
For just a bit more, you could get an actual video switch.
I was thinking of something like this
You will get double amplification from the speakers and it's not gonna sound pleasant. You can buy an rca hub/splitter and add it after the preamp instead.
Edit: this would work
Okay, so the issue here is that you're not sending a digital input to the DAC from the iPad. In my opinion, take the L on being able to use both devices through the Modi. What you can do is get an RCA switch where you select what goes into the Magni.
Cheap: https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-A1602-Splitter-Connecting-Devices/dp/B00HNCPR92/
Expensive: https://www.schiit.com/products/sys
I would just use a 3.5mm to RCA male from the iPad, and RCA cables from the Modi connected to the desktop. Put those into the switch and output to the Magni.
You already have a Modi right? I would just leave that connected to the PC and pick up an SMSL 793ii and use that with the PS4. If you want to keep using the Magni as the amplifier then I would get a FiiO D03K or SMSL 192-Pro and a stereo RCA switcher like this. Otherwise, yeah you'd be looking at selling the Modi you have and picking up the uber version instead unless you have some other use for two Modis.
https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-A1602-Splitter-Connecting-Devices/dp/B00HNCPR92/ref=sr_1_11?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505857961&amp;sr=1-11&amp;keywords=rca+audio+switcher
I'm using this thing from Amazon. It feels exactly as cheap as it costs, but it does the job!
I use this (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNCPR92/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1). I use a 3.5 to RCA cable for my headphones. My speakers use RCA. I have it taped to the underside of my desk.
Something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HNCPR92/ref=psdcmw_597546_t1_B00J6W8D0C
You'll only be able to use one at a time though.
OP, are you asking about like a video switch? Something that would take in all the video signals and allow you to switch between signals on the fly? Or are you asking about a device that plays all different sorts of games?
If you're asking about a video switch of some kind, you can definitely get them from Amazon.
If you're asking about a device that plays "all" games, the closest you're going to get is just emulation on a PC. Other than that, you'll have to look at devices like the Retron, but that only covers NES, SNES and Genesis.
You could get powered speakers that have both optical and bluetooth inputs - like these:
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https://www.amazon.com/Edifier-R1280DB-Bluetooth-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B0719C132V/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1550988904&sr=8-4&keywords=powered+speakers
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Your TV likely has optical out - even if it doesn't you can use analog out. If your computer can output via bluetooth, then both inputs would be digital. There's also powered speakers that accept a USB connection.
&#x200B;
Problem with powered speakers is that it's hard to set up a sub. If you wanted to go with a sub as well, you could get this:
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/rolls-SX45-Tiny-Stereo-Crossover/dp/B00102VWJK
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And run the low frequencies to the sub and rest to the mains.
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If you want to run a separate amp, I have heard that the TPA311X series class D amplifier chips sound good. See: https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-TPA3116-Channel-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B00WTOAC1M
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Then run speaker level output to your sub, and from your sub back to your mains. You could use an RCA switcher to control inputs to the amp. Like:
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https://www.amazon.com/d/Selector-Switch-Boxes/Panlong-Switcher-Composite-Selector-Consoles/B00KXVBB3Q/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1550989665&sr=8-4&keywords=rca+switch+box
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(You won't need the video connections).
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You can add a switch behind the scaler so you would only need one:
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https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Switcher-Composite-Selector-Consoles/dp/B00KXVBB3Q/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1538053628&sr=8-4&keywords=rca+switch
https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Switcher-Composite-Selector-Consoles/dp/B00KXVBB3Q?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1
do you think something like this would do the trick?
>The only problem I really have is that I have to hook up the only 240p console I have (Sega Genesis) via RF because all of the other AV and component ports are taken up and I don't even know if it would work.
They sell switch boxes for this type of problem. You plug 3 or 4 systems into one switch box, and then you switch to whatever console you want to use on the box.
Here's a cheap random one I found: https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Switcher-Composite-Selector-Consoles/dp/B00KXVBB3Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479606490&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=rca+audio+switcher
An RCA splitter is like $10 for up to 4 inputs. I'm running a CD player, turntable, reel to reel, and a digital source, all through a cheap little RCA splitter.
https://www.amazon.com/d/Selector-Switch-Boxes/Panlong-Switcher-Composite-Selector-Consoles/B00KXVBB3Q/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1543081085&amp;sr=1-2-spons&amp;keywords=rca+switch&amp;psc=1
I ask because it depends on what you have. For various reasons, even though I have a receiver with multiple inputs, I wanted to have three sources run into one input but with the option to switch between the three sources easily. For that purpose, I bought this. It works perfectly. It was cheap, and easy to understand, set up, and use.
But, like I said, it depends on what the connection is like to the speaker.
or go super lazy like me and get one that has a remote to swap inputs. remote optical 3>1
First: Canada, or US?
Second: Online, or in-store?
Third: Warranty possible, not necessary?
Fourth: Edge-lit or not, the difference when it comes to LED's is very minimal, unless you're a TV or A/V purist/tester.
I think /u/vitras has a good option, since the 350$ card can buy you a set of speakers...
If I may ask though... why 3 HDMI? You can just get one of these