(Part 2) Best electrical equipment according to redditors
We found 12,839 Reddit comments discussing the best electrical equipment. We ranked the 4,230 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
Something like this would do the job
Etekcity Power Extension Cord Short Cable, Outlet Saver, 3 Prong, 16AWG 13A, UL Listed (10 Pack, 1 Foot) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CEJW0WQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_4iK4CbDTAAR3M
Here's the cheapest ones I've found:
http://amzn.com/B00CEJW0WQ
Just buy a pack of short extension cables. End of problem.
Here's an example on Amazon.
Here's another.
Plug between the outlet and the wall wart, problem solved.
Just get a smart plug, it connects to wifi. name it "fan" and plug your fan into it. "Alexa turn on the fan".
https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Anywhere-Occupies-HS105/dp/B01K1JVZOE
I have a wemo plug myself.
Unscrew your porch light and use one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-1403-Outlet-Socket-Adapter/dp/B001F71O70
NOTE: Don't overload the circuit. Or the circuit breaker will trip.
Ok so here is the breakdown of what I am doing and a couple more photos of the UI and videos of it in action.
Here is the
configuration.yamlandui-lovelace.yamlfiles on Github.The main components that are currently being used on the front end are:
I intend for the UI to be displayed on a few Fire HD8 tablets. One that will be centrally located on the main floor of the house. Two others will be used as nightstand clocks in the master bedroom.
At a high level, all I have done is drawn the floor plan and layouts in Sketch and exported individual assets as pngs and position them within a
picture-elementscard mostly utilizingimageand itsstate_image. I would basically just plop down the button or icon or whatever withstyle: "top":50% "left":50%. Once the asset was in the UI I would inspect it via Chrome's dev tools inspector and select the parent container that thestylewas being set on. I would then manually adjust thetopandleftpercentages until I was satisfied. I would then updateui-lovelace.yamlto include the new values and double check them in the browser.For the buttons, currently the button background and button text are baked into the image but I intend to change that soon. Basically the indicator light is actually the same size as the whole button its just 95% of it is transparent.
Here are some screen caps (since i just posted photos from my phone last night)
Here are a couple videos of it in action:
Thats all I can think of for now to answer the basics... I am more than happy to go deeper into anything anyone has any questions about
Shut the power off at the breaker, pull the switch out and take a picture. Also this before you do anything.
GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Heavy Duty 40 Amp Smart Switch, Indoor/Outdoor Rated 120-277V, Energy Monitoring, Range Extender, Zwave Hub Required, Works with SmartThings, Wink, Alexa, 14285, Metal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTCZZF0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8uihDb7SNW5NN
No voice required for this device..just hands!
https://www.amazon.com/Clapper-Sound-Activated-Switch-Each/dp/B0000CGKLR
j/k While you can get a box to plug your lamp into that is controlled by another box via zwave. You would need wifi at some point for your phone to connect.
This is what he means.
It's about 30 bucks and will make sure a faulty cable pinout will only blow a PSU (worst case) rather then your whole system.
Check out /r/pcsleeving for all your tutorial needs.
https://www.amazon.com/Voltage-Protection-Klein-Tools-NCVT-2/dp/B004FXJOQO
Essentially you put it next to a suspected AC voltage and if it's present it lights up.
https://www.amazon.com/Clapper-Sound-Activated-Switch-Quantity/dp/B0000CGKLR
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-1403-Outlet-Socket-Adapter/dp/B001F71O70/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1345309404&sr=1-1&keywords=light+socket+adapter
DC wallwarts have not been a problem for me since I found out about these. Someone here recommended them. Whoever you are, thank you! I'm just about ready to buy my second ten-pack.
https://bosscontrols.com/product/boss-220-smart-plug/
https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-White-V3-26-AL001/dp/B00MBIRF5W/
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Appliance-Direct-Wire-Appliances-12726/dp/B00YTCZZF0/
The Clapper, Wireless Sound Activated On/Off Light Switch, Clap Detection, Perfect For Kitchen/Bedroom/TV/Appliances, 120 V Wall Plug, Smart Home Technology, As Seen On TV Household Gift https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000CGKLR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-eFXBbZYAAW3J
These also work well: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CEJW0WQ
I know in my case for my most recent house, I used a Circuit Breaker Finder. Have a helper plug it into an outlet, scan the panel til you find what you think it is. Flip the breaker, the power light at on the unit plugged in goes off to confirm, write it down, move on. That, with a light socket plug adatper got the majority of circuits out of the way. I was lucky that I had the finder at work, and can see how spending $40 can be a bit much for what most people see as a one time task.
For previous houses, I've had a few different methods. If I'm doing the entire house, I'd grab as many electric things as I could find and plug them in all over. Lamps, plug testers, radios, basically anything that would give me indication that the power was on or not. Then yes, sweep.
If I'm looking for a single breaker, I would just plug in a set of speakers, play some music and flip breakers until the music stops.
Yeah this switch and this remote should work together.
Also probably want this mount
https://www.amazon.com/Caseta-Wireless-Lighting-Ceiling-PD-6WCL-WH/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=pd_sim_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00KLAXFQA&pd_rd_r=4R6Z7QBRPGDWM80H1SES&pd_rd_w=dOmWU&pd_rd_wg=2jlSf&psc=1&refRID=4R6Z7QBRPGDWM80H1SES
These don't require a neutral.
If you use only small ones this shit will help you sleep like a baby:
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https://www.amazon.com/Century-Indoor-24-Hour-Mechanical-Outlet/dp/B01LPSGBZS/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=timer+plug&qid=1567112084&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzQzM5MUZBT0dUVTVZJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTMxMzQzM0JWQ1lMSFBLNkRQNCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTQwODA5MklVRkQwQUxGMTdZWSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
These become a LOT more functional if you spring for the $25 Hue Dimmer switch for each room. Gives you on/off/dimmer plus in the app you can set it up so you can cycle through 5 different scenes as you keep pressing the ON button. You can also add automations (like color changing) by holding ON, etc...
Switches dock in the plate with a magnet so you can remove it and leave it on your nightstand or coffee table for easy control. Also, since it pairs directly with the Hue hub, it's all local control.
It's really nice to be able to just tap the control to pick a scene or dim the lights without having to talk to Google or Siri. These suckers made an almost regrettably expensive lighting purchase much more enjoyable and usable for everyone.
As others have stated that's an equipment ground plug so it shouldn't be any problem but to be safe when removing any broken cord prongs from an outlet.
When in doubt hire a professional. Safety first.
http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-NCVT-2-Non-Contact-Voltage/dp/B004FXJOQO
Fuck that. Buy a PSU tester.
$10 for one of these: https://www.amazon.com/BroadLink-Universal-Remote-Control-RMMINI3-EN/dp/B01FK2SDOC/ref=pd_lpo_23_lp_t_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7G9JMCF4KAGF4110Q371
and there is a $5 tasker plugin. I use it to automatically turn off the tv when sleep as an android activates, and mute it when a call is in progress
You'll need one dimmer switch, and a second "slave" switch. GE has a good pair [here] (https://www.amazon.com/GE-45613-Wireless-Lighting-Three-Way/dp/B0013V58K2/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1487104987&sr=1-6&keywords=GE+zwave+switch).
Or [here] (https://www.amazon.com/GE-Smart-Dimmer-Z-Wave-14294/dp/B01MUCZA1C/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1487104987&sr=1-5&keywords=GE+zwave+switch) and [here] (https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-Lighting-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487105148&sr=8-1&keywords=ge+zwave+switch+add+on) separately.
Non affiliate link: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Appliance-Required-SmartThings-14285/dp/B00YTCZZF0/. Spam out.
Century Indoor 24-Hour Mechanical Outlet Timer, 3 Prong, 2-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LPSGBZS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
(Pack of 6) Barrina LED T5 Integrated Single Fixture, 4FT, 2200lm, 6500K (Super Bright White), 20W, Utility Shop Light, Ceiling and Under Cabinet Light, Corded electric with built-in ON/OFF switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HBT3BVM?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Hgrope 5W LED Grow Light Desk Lamp Clamp Flexible Neck for Hydroponic and Indoor Plants https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CVKWZH3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7ZEaBbZSW8ASJ
this last one isn't the exact red/blue lights i have but it looks better than mine hahaha
Hey there! Sorry that this is happening to you. While I agree with others, it makes no sense that that using your fan wire as a common fixed your issue - But it did! So that's great news for now.
For the record, I have had clients before tell me your same exact story - Their Nest suddenly needed a common after years of it working perfectly. Whether it's due to a surprise update, power outage, or strange anomaly - don't worry, others have been in your shoes. Just another quirk that comes with having the Nest.
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The "plug in" common wire is by far the easiest method, however you'll have to be creative on how you'll hide the wiring. Hope this helps!
The best thing for you, imo, since you’ve already invested a lot in hue is to get the little hue dimmer remotes. You’d use the remotes instead of the physical switches and you’d lock the switches with a switch lock/guard.
Philips 473371 Hue Dimmer Switch Smart Remote (Installation-Free, Exclusive for Philips Hue Lights), White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076MGKTGS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dpaSAbSV6SY55
In the future, as was already said, if you can use a smart switch then it would almost always be preferred to use a smart switch.
Edit:keep in mind that the smart switch from GE is zwave and requires a zwave hub like smartthings.
If you were to get into a hub then that opens up a while world of other possibilities but I think that might be beyond your scope of what you want.
You could use The Clapper and set your computer to control it using clapping sounds. [/not serious]
They solved this in the 80s: https://www.amazon.com/Clapper-Sound-Activated-Switch-Each/dp/B0000CGKLR
I think you should go 80s retro, and activate it with one of these.
You can chase where they go with one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-NCVT-2-Non-Contact-Voltage/dp/B004FXJOQO
Make sure the switch is on.
Buy a computer power supply tester. I have a Thermaltake brand.
https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO
You don't need to spend that much, there are cheaper ones out there. I got it on sale, years ago. It eliminates the "shotgun method" of troubleshooting where you are testing with known good parts.
http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO/
That's what I use, personally. It makes it fairly easy to test a supply since it will turn red and start beeping furiously if you are not getting enough juice. I don't test a ton of power supplies, so I can't speak to bulk usage/lifespan, but it has been great for my needs.
You need a dry-contact z-wave switch like one of these:
The switches would be powered at 110V AC, with the 24V wiring connected to the dry/isolated contact side.
Etekcity 10 Pack Power Extension Cord Cable, 16AWG-13A, 3 Prong Grounded, UL Listed (Black, 1-Foot) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CEJW0WQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5RLACb2ZM4P2A
These make life way easier.
$16.99 right now, but they frequently drop as low as $13.99 for a 10-pack of 1 ft cords. Unless you need 10, I doubt this will be much of a deal at the moment.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CEJW0WQ
Fuck buying kanthal from a vendor. you can get 100' of it for under $8 from here
Using Amazon links only...
My favorite RDA right now (although I own the authentic, this should be good enough, as I've never really had issues with clone RDAs): http://www.amazon.com/Vulcan-RDA-Clone/dp/B00OWKB3GE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420579323&sr=8-2&keywords=vulcan+rda Also look at TOBH Atty v2.5, Plumeveil, and Mephisto. All good clone atomizers!
As for mods, it pretty much comes down the which one you find aesthetically pleasing. Some off the top of my head you can look for are Nemesis, Stingray, Stingray X, Caravela, 4Nine... They often come in varying finishes (stainless being the most common, but you'll also see gold, copper, black). Nemesis and 4Nine tend to be on the cheaper side, but I found this Caravela for only $21.99 on Amazon for you: http://www.amazon.com/Caravela-Mechanical-Clone-Stainless-Steel/dp/B00OBUD6SS/ref=sr_1_10?s=miscellaneous&ie=UTF8&qid=1420579698&sr=1-10&keywords=mechanical+mod
Then I would recommend picking up one or two 18650 batteries, either Sony VTC4 or Samsung 25r (I own and use both). Rolled organic cotton from CVS pharmacy (will last you years), kanthal wire for rebuilding your coils (I use Temco: http://www.amazon.com/TEMCo-Kanthal-Wire-Gauge-Resistance/dp/B00FBSVQX6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1420579851&sr=8-3&keywords=kanthal+26g ), and an ohm meter to ensure safe builds: http://www.amazon.com/Resistance-Reader-Meter-Rebuilding-Atomizer/dp/B00KI0BMMC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420579903&sr=8-1&keywords=ohm+reader
Hope this helps! Btw, Youtube is your FRIEND! How I learned everything, just watched videos for whatever I was looking to do.
Here?
1985 has you covered
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https://smile.amazon.com/Clapper-Activated-Detection-Appliances-Technology/dp/B0000CGKLR/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1542398066&sr=8-2&keywords=The+Clapper
You could use cell phones and then have all-around-the-world range. Just put the receiving cell phone on SpeakerPhone and connect the light to The Clapper (LINK). Now you clap at the sending cellphone, the receiving cellphone plays this clap, and The Clapper turns on your light. Easy.
Get a connected bulb for the bathroom, RF would easiest and cheapest I think. Then you can leave the light circuit 'on' all the time, but the bulb is only illuminated when the RF remote is used. Then you can power the GH at all times without a battery using just socket adapter.
Socket Adapter
RF Bulb
The second one is definitely important living in a basement. The heating system is normally down there and depending on what type it is, it could leak CO and kill you in your sleep.
Also, I hope you have enough power outlets and not overloading them!
Nice choice on using christmas lights for some lighting. Maybe get a lightbulb plug to make it easier to turn them on.
For the fires, you probably don't have a safe egress, which is why it's illegal to live in basements. Just make sure your roommates are nice enough to grab you incase of a fire (Set up a meeting point outside for fires so you all go to the same place and do a headcount). You might have to run through some flames to get out but it's no biggie.
Source: also lived in a basement.
GE 54276 Polarized Handy Outlet Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002DN6QX2?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
This is what I'm using. Works flawlessly.
If you want to keep the light as well, you can use this instead:
Leviton 1403 Two Outlet Socket Adapter, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F71O70/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mHV.AbN3SJYV7
I have a similar situation. I'm in a house built in 1955 and in the process of replacing switches with a Lutron setup.
One thing I wanted to be clear on is what you mention about a lack of neutral wires. From my understanding (and granted, I'm not an electrician, but have done my fair share of wiring jobs around the house), even houses from the 50s would have neutral wires. I'm wondering if you've confused ground wires with neutral wires. Neutrals are usually white wires while grounds are usually green or bare copper. Again, I know this as I'm in the exact situation. My house has no ground wires in most locations, but neutrals are everywhere as expected.
I only have one switch in the house the controls an outlet, but here's now I tackled it.
This has actually worked out great, as it means we have an extra outlet in the living room for plugging in things like our laptops, but we still have a switch in the wall for the lamps.
So it’s a double hit with keeping the wife happy.
First, she won’t want you to replace everything you have. That would just be wasteful spending.
To make things easier to start, I would suggest the connected bulb remote from Lutron. If set up correctly you would have on/off as well as dimming control of your hue lights, while they ecstatically keep things looking tidy. (They fit in standard decora wallplates which should do the trick.
Now my general rule of thumb is to prevent “dumb” accessories. Something that can easily lose its power and no longer respond. The only hue light in my house vulnerable to this is the 2 A19 bulbs above my stove. I just always leave the stove light on now as the connected bulb remote is nearby, plus it controls under cabinet hue light strips (thus double benefit).
For long term happy wife / happy life (following not just rule 2, but rule 1: don’t waste money) I would suggest the Lutron Caséta line. They can be configured in 2 pole, 3 pole, and 4 pole (takes creativity). They offer dimming & on/off switches. They also offer Serena shades which use the same hub, and have the same size of remote.
I have friends who say that decora sizing doesn’t matter, but it’s once you add on to your setup with outlet switches, blind control, lights, fans, spotify, etc… that having everything on a single wallplate is super nice.
On a final note. To change colours, I drive via Siri allot. Most of my scenes would have a colour, but if not then a simple “set the kitchen to red” will suffice.
Fin.
edit: link
Here’s a set of two dimmer switches, hub and remotes. No neutral wire required for these so couldn’t be easier to fit
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-P-BDG-PKG2W-Assistant/dp/B01M3XJUAD/ref=sr_1_7?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1535840828&sr=1-7&keywords=lutron+caseta
And here’s just the hub and a basic switch. You do need a neutral for the switch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XPW67ZM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017LRCG38/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It’s not cheap to get started for sure (mainly due to that bridge) but Caseta, apart from HomeBridge, has been my most solid HomeKit device. The bridge never requires a restart in my experience. I honestly wish I hadn’t invested so much in Hue before I used this.
A common electric timer outlet will do, like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Century-Indoor-24-Hour-Mechanical-Outlet/dp/B01LPSGBZS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?crid=P70J7N4FPNRS&keywords=electric+timer+outlet&qid=1554977390&s=gateway&sprefix=electric+tiner&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1
Buy these three things below to get you through the winter (or all year)! I've used these for a few months now on a 16-hour timer and all my cacti and succulents have thrived.
You could quickly and easily install these on your shelves. The only concern I would have is the angle of the shelves. The sides of the plants on the back of the shelves would get more direct light, so just be sure to rotate your plants every week.
p..s that is a great looking setup!
The Hue dimmer: https://www.amazon.com/Philips-Hue-Dimmer-Installation-Free-Exclusively/dp/B076MGKTGS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1539172171&sr=8-2&keywords=hue+dimmer
I have this Hue switch mounted right next to my normal light switch (renting).
Still, why spend $25 when you can spend hours designing and printing something instead?? (Because it's fun is why)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076MGKTGS/
For sure, but for someone to be as good as he is at coaching the defense, I personally think he has to understand a lot about offense, that is just some random guy on the internets gut feeling though. Plus smart coaches/leaders tend to surround themselves with people smarter then them in things they lack depth in. Personally I would love someone with his intensity leading the whole team instead of the guy that invested in The Clapper
Problem solved ;)
If I was not a broke ass college student I would honestly send you one.
Happy Birthday
This! So much this. Everything goes on sale Dec 26th for around half to 80% off...and it's only the second day of Christmas!
If you have any outside lights, there is a cheap adapter to turn those into outlets for additional lights as well. Very useful if you don't have a regular outside outlet.
Five bucks!
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-1403-Outlet-Socket-Adapter/dp/B001F71O70/ref=br_lf_m_gmtayufhb75x6de_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&s=hi
From one DIYer to another, if you don't already have one of these, you should get one.
I think every engineer who works around electricity needs one of these: Klein non contact voltage tester.
That particular box is a low/high voltage box. The left side is open for low voltage wiring and the right side is for high voltage wiring (hence why it is enclosed. Mr_Norwall is correct... it is probably just a control line for an ignition system in the fireplace 'controller'. The green would be the ground (so it doesn't float) and the red/white would be the line to start the fireplace.
Another solution you might want to check out is an in-wall module or a dry-contact relay. Such examples are:
https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478881790&sr=8-1&keywords=z-wave+dry+contact
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW097-Contact/dp/B0155HSUUY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1478881790&sr=8-2&keywords=z-wave+dry+contact
https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Z-Wave-Isolated-Contact-Fixture/dp/B00ER6MH22/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1478881790&sr=8-4&keywords=z-wave+dry+contact
Some dry contact modules will still require 120v to be added though. The Aeon Labs, for instance, just runs on a coin cell I think.
edit: adding product links
I have one setup, really hasn't been a problem. The Fireplace is fairly new and has it's own built in safety measures. Worst case scenario you end up with a situation similar to you turning it on via the wall switch and leaving without turning it off, aka you forgot. A properly functioning gas fireplace shouldn't be an inherent safety risk on its own. I've never had it accidentally turn itself on and I monitor what devices are on when nobody is home in the house. Would be trivial to configure a notification to be sent to your phone whenever it is on and you are not home.
I used this Zwave dry contact switch but it doesn't look like it's available anymore. It is hidden underneath the fireplace, but you could get one that replaces the switch in the wall.
I don't really automate anything with it except triggering it to turn off when we leave or turn off with a Bedtime switch. I've been kicking around the idea of a timer, so only letting it run for say 2 hours before shutting itself off. You can check out the whole setup here
2 600w LEDs and it doesn't exceed 850w on the whole smart plug.
power pictures
Edit: in the power pictures you can see I took extra precaution. Most everything in the tent has built in trips, but I don't trust those or my apartment. I bought these extension cords then routed every plug through one of those to my battery backup using a 1ft extension when needed. Finally, everything is going to a smart plug with energy monitoring so I can calculate what I cost the energy bill every month. This allows me to make sure I grow the value of what I spend on growing at least. So far, I'm still running about even at $40 a month.
Consider the Caseta dimmers and switches. They are quality pieces of hardware, and some models don't need a neutral to operate. They rob a tiny bit of power when off and on, and it does it in a way where most bulbs and appliances don't flicker or anything. I have an old house without neutrals almost everywhere and these things have been my silver bullet.
Here's a dimmer that doesn't need a neutral: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLAXFQA
And a switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NO7Z80S
Be careful on which dimmers and switches you buy, as Lutron sells ones that require neutral connections that look exactly the same. Check the model numbers! Last I checked, Home Depot sells dimmers that work without neutrals, but the switches they sell do require them.
I have a three-way connection on my stairwell, and I just wire-nutted one side of the connection and put a Pico remote in its place. On the other side is a dimmer with no neutral.
You'll need a Caseta bridge to make these work, and I highly recommend the pro bridge. The non-pro one works, but it does some really hacky things to get it to talk with Home Assistant. Updates to it have broken things, too. The pro bridge provides a reliable telnet connection that also supports using Pico remotes as sensors and such.
If you decide to use the pro bridge, use this component: https://github.com/upsert/lutron-caseta-pro
Good luck!
GE Z-Wave switches. Use their add-on switch combined with one of their regular z-wave switches. (or zigbee or bluetooth it would seem, I am just a fan of bluetooth so that's what I used)
I just did one of my lights that was controlled by two switches with this. The main switch goes where there's power to the switch (and you'll need to make sure you have a neutral wire there) and then your existing traveler wires should be able to be used to connect the other switches.
I also saw these Zooz switches which looked interesting and claim to work with existing three way switches but I have no experience with them. I went with the GE switches because I've used them for regular switches in the past and have been very happy with them.
Here's a z-wave switch to control the heater. Check out the reviews for how people use it. I happened to stumble on this giant switch the other day.
GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting and Appliance Control, 40 Amp, Large Load, Direct-Wire, Indoor/Outdoor, For Pool Pumps, Hot Water Heaters, Landscape Lighting, and Other Large Appliances, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12726
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTCZZF0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KccUzbDE8D5R2
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-LZL-4B-WH-L01-Connected-Bulb-Remote/dp/B014STZASK
These are awesome. You just pair these to the hub and the bulbs you want to control, and wire nut the lights to be hot 24/7. These fit in a regular decora faceplate; its the best solution I've found so far that solves the smart bulb/dumb switch issue. Plus, these match with Lutron Caseta's smart switch line for lights that aren't hue.
Yep, and you can pair a pico to it for the other side. Note you don’t need a hub if you just want the switch and pico to work together. The hub will give you smart phone control
Pico: https://www.amazon.ca/Lutron-PJ2-2B-GWH-L01-Remote-Control-White/dp/B00KLAXOE8/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CJCTRVTZNFWTTQV2RX4M
Switch
https://www.amazon.ca/Lutron-Caseta-Wireless-Lighting-PD-6ANS-WH/dp/B017LRCG38/ref=pd_bxgy_60_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=MZPGBFTHYAFQ97YWPJF9
Lutron Casetta in wall switches and a smart Bridge would do what you need.
I use the Sylvania Zigbee switch, but it doesn't fit in a deco, but rather on top of.
I use the Broadlink RM mini3 remote, connected to my Google home. I even have routines long before the volcano hybrid came out. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FK2SDOC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pA0WDb9KAMZT3
Just clone the remote and you're set. If you need more help setting it up, just PM me!
Edit: forgot to mention, for location based triggers you can use IFTTT
[ I use this Broadlink one] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FK2SDOC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_z84UDb2J2GGBV)
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FK2SDOC/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_2_w
Note that if you dont have an existing C wire and dont wanna run new wire you can also buy a plug-in adapter that fakes it.
24 Volt C-Wire Power Adapter/Transformer for Ecobee Nest Honeywell Emerson Smart WiFi Thermostat by Fyve Global | 25 ft Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075PN6NCV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bKCwCbMYZWJN9
If you don't mind an external transformer near the thermostat, you can just buy this:
https://www.amazon.com/Transformer-Honeywell-Thermostat-Fyve-Global/dp/B075PN6NCV
The wires from the transformer go into Rc and C. Your current wires go into Rh and W. I did this for my parents. Works amazing.
sounds like you have a three way light in your kitchen (two switches control the same light). You'll need one smart switch and one add-on switch
GE add-on switch
You will need the primary switch and the second switch has to be an "add on" switch like this one:
GE 12723 Add-On Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MDgvxbGSX5G0Z
A non-zwave switch won't work.
I use either GE or Linear/GoControl brand. Both seem to work the same. Only reason I use a combination is because I'm picky and the white color of the Linear ones don't quite match the standard wall plates and switches. So I use the cheaper Linear switches for single gang boxes and the GE for multi:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Dimmer-Z-Wave-12724-Amazon/dp/B006LQFHN2
https://www.amazon.com/Linear-WD500Z-1-Z-Wave-500-Watt-Wall-Mount/dp/B00E1OVFAK
If you have 3-way switches though, be aware that the Linear option can end up costing a bit more. With the GE switches you have one master switch like the one I linked above, and then their add-on switch for the others in the circuit. Linear has an add-on switch also, but it's like twice the price of the GE one. So I always use GE for 3 or 4-way switches:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-Lighting-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ
GE makes "add-on" switches for their Z-Wave, Zigbee, and Bluetooth switches. The normal smart switch is installed on one end (usually where the power comes in from your panel) and an add-on switch gets connected on the other side. These switches do require neutral (usually white) wires - as long as you have those, no additional wiring should be needed.
I do not know if there are any wifi switches that work this way. However, I've been using GE's Z-Wave switches with the Aeotec Z-Stick Gen5 and Home Assistant and it's been working great! If you're not already locked into a certain technology and don't mind using Z-Wave that would be my recommendation.
BTW it's not difficult to wire them yourself once you know what you're doing. I hired an electrician to wire the first few for me - I watched them, asked questions, and learned how to do the others myself.
I have one 4-way setup in my house; I used the GE zwave light switch and 2 add-on switches. One main switch and then two add-on switches will run you less than $100.
GE's toggle-style switches (12727, switch; 12728, add-on switch; 12729, dimmer) will fit into an existing toggle setup, but they don't stay up and down like a regular toggle switch does. They're always pointing straight out in the middle and you press them up or down to turn the light on and off (or hold the dimmer up or down to brighten and dim, respectively). They return to their center position as soon as you let go.
I like the decora series a little better (12722, switch; 12723, add-on switch; 12724, dimmer). They have a little LED on them that indicates the current status of the light. The toggle-style switches don't have any indication of whether they're on or off, which is kind of a bummer for outside lights.
One thing to be aware of for the add-on switches: they require a traveler wire, but can only be paired with GE primary switches. The traveler doesn't carry full line voltage; it's just used for the add-on switch to signal the primary when the add-on's been pressed.
Hey /u/Mercury357 !
Sorry I can't offer much advice when it comes to Inovelli or Zooz, but I'm sure you'll get a great response from some of the other members here.
I can however, relay that the GE Switches are on sale right now on Amazon for $30.99 and the GE Dimmers are on sale for $32.99
Our Add-On switches work great for 3 and 4-way setups as well, those run $19.50 right now
If you have any questions about GE product, feel free to ask. :)
I like the GE switches. Currently running 5 though out the house. You can use the GE switch and purchase a add on switch. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493836027&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ge+add+on+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=41glGOvc3NL&ref=plSrch
It sort of depends on how you want to control it. I don't use HomeKit so I can't offer much assistance there.
Here's a Z-Wave appliance module.
https://shop.homeseer.com/products/homeseer-hs-pa100-z-wave-plus-wireless-appliance-module
There's also this 40A badboy. :D
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Appliance-Direct-Wire-Appliances-12726/dp/B00YTCZZF0/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1
Something like this may work https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTCZZF0
GE makes a 40-amp z-wave switch/contactor that could work as well https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTCZZF0
Easiest solution would be to install a simple toggle switch. You can do this at your equipment pad. Cut the wire feeding the device and install the switch in between this connection. I'm assuming it's 240v? If so, just use a switch like this as long as you have a 30amp or smaller breaker.
If it's outdoors, just grab a weatherproof junction box like this and a cover. Might have to get creative with the conduit run (assuming outside), but should be no big deal if you're handy.
The line feeding my pool equipment has a toggle switch like that. The line comes from the breaker into a toggle, then out to a timer that controls my pump and salt cell.
You could also install a timer instead of a switch if you wanted. They even make z-wave ones.
I believe your problem is that you have Smart bulbs connected to a smart switch. If the smart switch is off then the smart bulbs wouldn't work. I would think your bulbs would still connect to wink as long as the power is on. Since they're both dimmable you probably should use the Lutron Casetta On/Off Switch rather than the dimmer.
You may also be able to pair the light with a connected bulb switch that can be wall mounted next to the regular switch using this Lutron Pico Wallplate Bracket and a 2 gang wallplate.
Just ordered 2 of these, they arrive tommorow so i'm going to see how they work but I ordered them for basically purpose you're asking about
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014STZASK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The Lutron LZL-4B-WH-L01 Connected Bulb Remote will do what you want; it's what I use for this exact purpose. You can directly pair it to one or multiple bulbs.
iConnectHue also let's you really customize the Hue remote. You can definitely set it up to control specific lights in a room. I have 8 lights in a room, the first press turns on 1 light, the 2nd press turns on 2 more, and the third press turns on the remaining 6 lights.
I've been using the Lutron Connected Bulb Remote. They work great:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014STZASK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
From one of the Amazon reviews, here's the pairing instructions:
Most people seem to use smart things as a dumb hub. Other options include the Hue and Lightify gateway, both of which are zigbee.
I use a lightify gateway, but haven't left the lightify ecosystem yet so not sure how well it works with other devices. I got into lightify originally because I really like these switches that can be stand alone or cover your normal light switch, and the tunable white bulbs are only $25 Amazon.
Edit: Relevant thread on the forums: https://community.home-assistant.io/t/z-wave-zigbee-usb-stick/8232/8
Yup, eagerly awaiting that enhancement too!
My ideal Hue-compatible smart-switch -- which AFAIK doesn't exist -- would be hard-wired so it could control load to the fixture as a backup, but normal operation would just send Zigbee signals for smart control.
Along those lines, I've heard of some folks using this product, which is battery-powered and fits over the top of a conventional wall-switch. So that prevents people in your household from accidentally toggling the wall-switch (but it can still be accessed on the rare occasions where it's needed.) But I personally don't care for the aesthetics of a big bulging remote on the wall. Also, I don't think that Sylvania product is directly compatible with the Hue hub; you'd need some other automation solution (SmartThings, HomeKit, etc.) to bridge those systems.
I use one of these through smarthings works great. Sylvania Smart Home 73743 Lightify Smart Dimming Switch, Dimmer, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196M620Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3gW4Cb02M57JK
The Broadlink RM Mini 3 is down to $15, great for automating anything that needs an IR signal like an air conditioner.
https://smile.amazon.com/Broadlink-RM-Mini3-Universal-Controller-Compatible/dp/B01FK2SDOC
You would need to use an IR blaster to send the TV the commands to power on/off and change source.
You could use this with Home Assistant:
BroadLink IR Control Hub Works with Amazon Alexa, RM Mini3 Smart Home Wi-Fi Enabled Infrared Universal Remote Control, One for All Control ( Black Bean RMMINI3-EN ) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FK2SDOC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ODSSBbPKCNVDV
It will work best if your tv supports distinct source commands (aka if the remote for your tv has a button for HDMI 1, Hdmi 2 ,etc...)
Broadlink IR devices can be integrated in several home automation systems with a plugin.
Same here, plus I didn't want to fork over that much money just to turn a tower fan and atv on. It's a RM Mini3: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01FK2SDOC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497038649&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=rm+mini+3&dpPl=1&dpID=418npUQ%2BGKL&ref=plSrch
It doesn't make any noise when turning on or off so must be. It's the tp link mini smart plug hs105: TP-Link Smart Plug Mini, No Hub Required, Wi-Fi, Works with Alexa and Google Assistant, Control your Devices from Anywhere, Occupies Only One Socket (HS105) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K1JVZOE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_X9YEAb80ZZGX1
Long warmup time is one of the downsides of HX machines. Twenty minutes is about the minimum.
I've got my Appartamento on a scheduled switch, one of these:
https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Anywhere-Occupies-HS105/dp/B01K1JVZOE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1496170180&sr=8-2&keywords=tp+link+outlet
$35 has the machine turn on an hour before I wake up and if I'm on the way home and know I want coffee, the internet integration means I can click it on from my phone so it's hot when I get home.
There's some debate on Home Barista on whether you can leave HX machines on that long, and the consensus is mixed. If you're interested in doing so, check the site. I determined that $35 was a fair enough price to not have a 1000+ watt machine running all night.
Lastly, congrats on starting law school. I graduated in 2012. It's a fun time.
https://www.amazon.com/Century-Indoor-24-Hour-Mechanical-Outlet/dp/B01LPSGBZS
I mean, I'm only half-joking. That's what the plug-and-play option looks like.
I don't get the safety logic here, though. You're either confident leaving a printer unattended or you're not. You want to print through the night, but cut the power at a certain time? They're not Gremlins, it's okay to print after midnight.
Sure! Here is a dual bar light type and a circle type. Here's also a more low profile type you can clamp to the shelf above: top down light.. With any of these, for ease of use I recommend getting an outlet timer, takes a lot of the hassle/worry out of making sure your babies get enough sun: outlet timer. Hope this helps!
stick a pico remote to the wall and you'll get 5 buttons you can use to pass into Home assistant. then an IR/RF emitter to send commands to the fan from Home assistant. if you're already thinking about getting hue, you could get their remote and stick it to the wall.
If there's no switch on the wall then the fixture must be wired to always be on, or maybe there's a switch/relay in the breaker box itself, so smart bulbs could be a good fit. you'll still need an IR/RF emitter to control the fan though.
I actually had this happen over the weekend and found out my dimmer switch worked regardless of my internet being back up. It's now become my 'kill all' switch for when the power goes out.
Philips Hue has wireless dimmer switches. They don't replace the switch, but you leave the physical switch on at all times, and put this nearby / on top. They control Hue smart bulbs.
AFAIK, it's not the light that's sensitive to the sound but the power adapter such as: http://www.amazon.com/The-Clapper-Sound-Activated-Switch/dp/B0000CGKLR
Maybe you could make your own: http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Clap-Sensitive-Light-Control-The-Clapper/
I would buy 7 other Bluetooth speakers, preferably from different companies, that sounds excessive but it is what you need for Dolby atoms.
Usually the Bluetooth speakers will have a headphone jack, you will use that to connect it to the TV. Obviously your TV doesn't have 10 headphone jacks, but that's where these babies come into play, you will need 9 of them.
You may face the issue that it is cumbersome to turn on all of the speakers separately, you could use a IOT solution like this one to control all of them.
You could order this from Amazon from your ipad: http://www.amazon.com/The-Clapper-Sound-Activated-Switch/dp/B0000CGKLR but one of you would have to eventually get up and install it.
Thing
Light bulb socket adapter: One outlet version -- www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PCVTFC, two outlet version -- http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-1403-Outlet-Socket-Adapter/dp/B001F71O70. Best not to try to make one of these yourself, can be dangerous if something gets wired backwards.
Fan speed regulator: Depends on the fan, ceiling fans are controlled different than box/stand fans. Usually it's a burnt resistor or such. Probably best to just replace the regulator assembly, most of the time they're not repairable anyway.
Broken cupboard door: Get a box of wooden matches; break the heads off 3-4 of them, however many will fit into the screw hole. Dip them into wood glue, then shove them into the hole as far as they will go. Once the glue dries, cut them off flush with the wood surface, then screw the hinge back into the newly filled-in wood. If you lost the screws, take one out of another hinge and your local hardware store should have something that matches up. Can also try getting a screw a couple sizes up instead of the matchstick trick. Screws are numbered for "thickness" and then measured for length. Quick chart of the American system is here -- http://s.hswstatic.com/gif/screws-1.jpg.
Toilet lid - usually these just sit on top of the tank? If you're talking about the seat, there are usually 2 screws under the hinge tabs, look for a cover you can flip up. Might have to use pliers underneath to hold the nut while tightening the screw above.
For the vast majority of things, if you don't want to post on /r/diy (that's what it's here for!) just search Google for "cabinet door hinge fell off", or "toilet seat loose," etc, there's plenty of information out there (even step by step YouTube videos!)
Source: Way too much of my childhood spent watching This Old House and reading this thing.
If you have a door light or lamp post, you can take out the bulb, screw this in, and instant outlet.
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-1403-Outlet-Socket-Adapter/dp/B001F71O70
My parents do this every year. Just don't go crazy and put too many lights going to this thing. But especially with the low power LED lights, you can string quite a bit up to this thing.
Klein Tools 92906 ProPack 6 Apprentice Tool Set for Trade Professionals (6-Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EKONLY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Qm5EAbQVA3JFH
That’s a good deal. It has lineman pliers, diagonal cutters, needle nose, wire strippers, and flat/ Phillips screwdrivers.
Screwdriver and Nut Driver 11-in-1 Multi Tool, Cushion Grip Handle, Industrial Strength Bits Klein Tools 32500 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yp5EAbSKE4D2A
This is a good all purpose screwdriver to carry around
Klein Tools NCVT-2 Dual Range Non-Contact Voltage Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FXJOQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qq5EAbTTZ8GYW
This is a non contact voltage tester and it might just save you some pain/your life
Channellock 440 12-Inch Tongue and Groove Plier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SBCU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xr5EAbWNKDP5C
You should probably get 2 pairs of these. It’ll help you twist on couplings and stuff
Stanley 33-725 25-Feet FatMax Tape Measure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002PV66/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Xs5EAbGVWXZDV
A lot of people like these tape measures for their larger claws
Klein Tools 98002BT Bottle Opener https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00093GENU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4u5EAb52FZ742
This will help for when you go home
No idea about the helmet. As far as tools go
non contact voltage tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FXJOQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_XxzgAb8RCT4Y9
Works great for double checking the utilities are off or isolating a particular circuit if you don't want to leave someone's house entirely without power
4 in 1 screwdriver
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009V431/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_vzzgAbASETAEA
For screwing and unscrewing things
Reasonable sized channel locks
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SBCS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_ZAzgAbD9C5JND
For a while I had vice grips instead of these but found with gloves on they were a little too clunky to manipulate. Works great for grabbing and loosening like gas connections to dryers
And this rescue tool dealio
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0057UMN3A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_ZCzgAbQY3EK8Z
Works as your battery cutter, prying tool, gas shutoff and a spanner. I cut one of those little locks that secures piv valves and commercial sprinkler systems with this thing before my partner could make it back with bolt cutters so that alone was worth half the price
The sub panel being hooked to a 50A breaker on the main panel is normal. Someone installed a 50A sub panel. This is great for you as you can shut off the entire sub panel by fliping the 50A breaker in the main panel. That way you do not have to worry about anything being live when you install a new circuit. Buy an electrical tester pen first just to make sure the sub panel is off.
You are correct about how to install the new 15A breaker, and it will need 14 gauge wire. You need to make sure its the same type of breaker that is currently in your sub panel as there is more then one kind.
As to the white wire to the copper bus unless someone else posts a good reason for that its wrong. I would pay someone to inspect your sub panel just to be sure there are not other wiring issues.
> TLDR: Get a multimeter and test the wires yourself.
Or at a minimum get something like this Non-Contact Voltage Tester. I find it much easier when working in tight spaces.
Assuming you're doing basic AC electrical work, then pick up a non-contact voltage detector. It helps take the guess work out of figuring out if a box or wire is live.
your local hardware store will have a non-contact voltage tester like this one you could jerry-rig a tester, or a couple other less than safe ways to do it, but just spend the $10 on a cheap non-contact tester.
There's nothing inherently wrong with using extensions or custom cables (if you bought/were shipped the right ones). BUT YOU HAVE TO TEST THEM. There's too much chance of human failure with custom cables/extensions.
https://www.amazon.com/Optimal-Shop-Computer-Supply-Connectors/dp/B00Q8SUYHW/ or https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO/
At this point I'd test the powersupply both with and without the extensions. But you need to test that power supply!
When you build fancy, you have to "bench test" first. No fancy LEDs, just the base components on a non-conductive/anti-static surface. If you don't have such a surface, then just test the basics in the case.
You can get a PSU tester to check if it's functional at all, however I would still be wary of using it even if it appears to test ok. The PSU is the one part that can literally destroy every other component in your PC, so your safest bet is to just buy a new one.
The First thing you should do when having these types of issues, is reduce your hardware down to just the core parts needed to boot the system.
Pro-Tip* It really sounds like it's your PSU, but if you want to truly rule it out, you have to use process of elimination, unless you have a power supply tester, which has saved me many headaches.
I think this is the link for the lazy. (not affiliate) https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1485595831&sr=8-2&keywords=remote+dry+contact
You have a lot of options. Easiest would probably go with a hub like a Samsung SmartThings hub and get zwave door/window sensors.
For the garage door you could use the GoControl outfit kit https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU
The fireplace gets a bit tricky depending on how the control is. Most newer homes with gas logs are on a milivolt system, meaning the switch on the wall that opens the gas valve doesnt actually have power, its just a signal wire. For this case you need to get power to that switch location which could be as easy as tapping into the lines of an adjacent switch. You need a Zwave dry contact swtich. https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI
I just added a generic Z-Wave relay in parallel with the original wired button.
It probably depends on the model of your gas fireplace but for mine it was fairly easy. I used a Remotec Z-Wave Dry Contact Fixture Module. It's showing unavailable on Amazon right now so not sure where else you could get it. You will also need a generic Lamp Cord to power the dry contact. I didn't do anything to the wall switch.
Basically, the wall switch has 2 low voltage wires coming from it and going under the fireplace. You cut these wires under the fireplace and you connect them to the dry contact. Essentially you now have 2 coming in from the switch and 2 going out to the fireplace. Then you connect the lamp cord to power portion of the dry contact and then plug it into the outlet under the fireplace (Not sure how you would do this without an outlet under there so I'd check for that first). That's it! The wall switch still works like normal and now you can control it like any other Z-Wave switch through an app or with voice. I'm not aware of anything similar that works over Wifi instead if you don't have a hub.
As for safety, it's probably safer now that I can track and disable it remotely. You can also set up automations to turn it off or notify you if left on for too long. You aren't touching any gas lines and the wires you are touching are all low voltage, I don't see why people consider this dangerous.
Seconded. I use these; they work great.
1ft extension cords should help with your power brick woes:
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Power-Extension-Outlet-Listed/dp/B00CEJW0WQ?crid=258GGW5T5B8WR&keywords=1ft+extension+cord&qid=1538163414&sprefix=1ft+&sr=8-1-spons&ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa&psc=1
Or buy a squid:
https://www.amazon.com/Accell-PowerSquid-Surge-Protector-Power/dp/B00ABC1LE6?crid=ZYHW7B6S8HS6&keywords=squid+surge+protector&qid=1538163486&sprefix=squid+surg&sr=8-1&ref=mp_s_a_1_1
Like the hidden cabinet look.. Now you just need a small UPS and some of these for those wall warts...
You can buy 1-ft extensions by the bag or singly. Amazon/etekcity or Monoprice are reliable brands.
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105296-1-Feet-16AWG-Extension/dp/B01HGV7MII
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Power-Extension-Outlet-Listed/dp/B00CEJW0WQ
I remember reading that the cords are short for safety reasons, to prevent snagging, tripping accidents.
I had a similar tangle underneath my work area. you could try something like these:
organizer / tamer to put under the desk,
a box for your surge protector, and
short extenders for power cables to help them all fit in your surge protector
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CEJW0WQ/
For mine we bought a house that had one installed but it had one of those doorbell style buttons on the wall using a simple 2 wire coniguration so I added this and it has worked perfectly. My point being if you intend to have a wall button then you could do something simple like this and get any brand that you like giving you more options.
They make a controllable set of contacts that you could connect and then stick a motion sensor up in the hood. Set it so that when motion is detected it turns on and then if no motion for 20 minutes it shuts off.
I had the same issue but with the light in the range, so I took the range hood apart and mounted a GE link bulb in it. They are sized for a little 40w max bulb. I also had to defeat the built in dimmer.
The only hustle is you have to use your phone or Alexa to turn it on/off. Otherwise you need to cycle the power switch.
GoControl Z-Wave Isolated Contact Fixture Module - FS20Z-1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ER6MH22/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_Idh-wbY297JD0
Save yourself some money and get this relay. You'll notice that the "frequently bought" also has a tilt sensor to be used to determine if the garage door is open.
This is the setup I use and it has been flawless so far. I use it with Amazon Echo and have to say "turn on garage" but that's not a big deal to me.
It is Z-Wave so SmartThings is what controls it. Set it up as a Z-Wave Momentary Switch. As for wiring, it is really simple, you just put the output wires into the same terminals that your wall button uses (or wire it in parallel to those wires). It basically does the exact same thing as the wall button.
Dry contact relay. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Z-Wave-Isolated-Contact-Fixture/dp/B00ER6MH22/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480161156&sr=8-1&keywords=zwave+relay
The step up to claptons from regular wire is a big one. You'll get even better performance out of fused claptons, but the difference isn't as large as you'll see when you transition from regular to clapton. Super fancy builds are usually on par with fused claptons, but they're pretty much just for show despite what they say on the YouTubes.
It doesn't have to be expensive, though. Just buy a couple rolls of cheap wire on Amazon (I recommend TEMCo), grab the nearest drill, and spend some time learning to make your own. Your first few will suck, but the next few will be functional, and then after the first dozen or so it'll be pretty easy. A 250-ft spool will last you a long, long time for all of about $7.
https://www.amazon.com/TEMCo-Kanthal-wire-Gauge-Resistance/dp/B00FBSVQX6/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1485384791&sr=8-7
Stainless is all I use. It's a bit finicky, yeah, but it's the best TC-capable wire for flavor and safety. Nickel has safety concerns regarding nickel poisoning, is a soft metal which makes it more difficult to work with, and can't be dry burned. Titanium has safety concerns with respect to titanium oxide, tastes weird (to me), and can't be dry burned. Stainless has none of those issues, but is tricky to get working correctly until you get the hang of it.
For future reference, you can get the same thing for almost half the price from TEMCo, either directly or through Amazon.
For my (future) sub ohm mech modders out there. Here is a quality setup that will allow you to rebuild to your heart's delight. I recommend a minimum of 4 batteries.
optional
I'm going to give you a list with some upgraded options.
|Item|Base|Upgrade|
|-----|------|---------|
|Mod|Sentinel M16 Clone ($24.99)|Nemesis Clone($31.99)|
|RDA|IGO-W ($12.99)|
|Battery|Sony VTC5 ($10.99)|Buy more.|
|Charger|Nitecore i2 ($11.55)|Nitecore i4 ($16.25)|
|Wire|28 gauge Kanthal ($7.30)|
|Cotton|Your local drugstore, like $4)||
|Total|$71.82 + tax/shipping|All upgrades: $94.51|
You could save a couple bucks by ordering from China, but you'll be waiting quite a while for your stuff. I'm not a huge fan of the Sentinel clone, but it's really inexpensive. If you're cool waiting like a month, then I'd get the Nemesis Clone from FastTech.
i'd think 600w is way too high (i'm an electrical engineer)
if you use kanthal instead of nichrome (actually most ecig modders use kanthal) it is pretty cheap. the only thing you would have to manage is power to it and the way the coil is set up in the bowl.
As for idle vs burn temp, you could just use an arduino (or just the micro) to control two different mosfets that run 5v and 12v (or whatever voltage you want)
kanthal link:
http://www.amazon.com/TEMCo-Kanthal-Wire-Gauge-Resistance/dp/B00FBSVQX6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406154845&sr=8-1&keywords=kanthal
This. The backplates you need to do this are the Pico Wall Plate Brackets. I have em all over since they can fit right in to your home naturally and it makes the Hue system intuitive for guests.
Use a Caseta switch and put Pico remotes at the other location(s). The difference between the normal Caseta dimmer and the dimmer+remote is only $5. Edit: And another $6 for the wall plate bracket, forgot the set doesn't come with one. Edit 2: If you don't need dimming functionality, Nicksatx is right that you can even keep the mechanical switch. You'll probably have to buy the non-dimming on/off switch online because I've never seen one in a store.
If you want your switch to have a more "finished" appearance, get a pico wallplate bracket, a claro wall plate, and then a caseta lamp module.
Depending on how your current lightswitch is configured, you may be able to use a two gang wallplate on your current switch and the new switch.
Confirmed. The switch is wired to the load and the remote is wall mounted acting as your second switch. I have this arrangement in both the kitchen and the living room and it works wonderfully.
Switch
Wall Plate
If you are interested in Lutron, you can just get a Lutron plug-in dimmer with a pico remote:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015SXZLK2/
Hardwire the switch open and mount the pico where the switch is with the wall plate bracket and you are good to go:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JZRAFEA/
If you decide to get more in-depth with home automation, there are also ways to program the different pico buttons to do other things (run scenes, etc)
Very, very easy. Heck the lamp modules look like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Caseta-Wireless-Lighting-Dimmer-PD-3PCL-WH/dp/B00KHSXB60/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1521211609&sr=8-2&keywords=lutron+lamp
And the wall plate adapters to make the remotes mount to the wall are just plastic plates that you put a normal switch cover on.
https://www.amazon.com/Caseta-Wireless-Wallplate-Bracket-PICO-WBX-ADAPT/dp/B00JZRAFEA/ref=sr_1_10?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1521211653&sr=1-10&keywords=lutron+switch+plate
You don't countersink them, just screw to a flat wall. Its amazingly simple.
Even easier!
Buy a clapper and get to the office early one day and install it into the main power feed to his/her equipment. I think you know what to do from here.
And now I'll feel like a damn hell ass king instead of a lazy slob when using the Clapper.
[Try this](The Clapper, Wireless Sound Activated On/Off Light Switch (Clapper Original) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000CGKLR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2OxGDbRRKD5A2)
Just download the Clap App to your hand and its g2g!
https://www.amazon.com/Clapper-Activated-Detection-Appliances-Technology/dp/B0000CGKLR . 22% serious.
What year is it?
That took me all the way back to the 90's. I haven't gotten into using sensors with the pi, but it looks interesting
Are you dead set on snapping fingers? Or would a clap work? If so, try this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000CGKLR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZrYSCb1DRS58T
Would something like this work? Or does the lamp not turn on after being unplugged/powered off?
Ohhhhh.... to you have a ceiling or wall light fixture out there? If so you might be able to use something like this and pull power off the light circuit.
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-1403-Outlet-Socket-Adapter/dp/B001F71O70/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1473968821&sr=8-5&keywords=light+bulb+socket
they make adapters that you spin into a lightbuld socket, I lived in a self storage unit for two months one time that overlooked the city, all the homes in the area were multimillion dollar so I was pretty proud of my view for $35 a month, i cut a little slit behind the latch so I could close it from the inside so it looked paddle locked
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F71O70/ref=asc_df_B001F71O705047028/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B001F71O70&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167139094796&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14773802175312856461&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019460&hvtargid=pla-500526566312
They make adapters you can screw into a lightbulb socket and makes a regular power outlet. You can then plug in a power strip to the outlet and get light, electric heat, charge your phone, etc.
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-1403-Outlet-Socket-Adapter/dp/B001F71O70
simplest way (if I am reading your post correctly) is buy a light->outlet adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-1403-Outlet-Socket-Adapter/dp/B001F71O70
You have PERFECT timing, ComputerByte! I've been trying to puzzle out the solution to my holiday outdoor lighting woes and realized today that there is such a thing as an outdoor porch light outlet adapter - a little gizmo that screws into the light bulb socket and turns into outlets that things like Christmas string lights can be plugged into. :D
Of course, the one I found had to be an add-on item, so I stuck it on my wishlist and procrastinated further - Leviton 1403 Two Outlet Socket Adapter, Black.
Let's see, number 1-100 - I'll take 73.
I hope your mood improves! How's your little dog doing? EDIT wait no you're a cat person! Furry animal person? How's the small animal I know I've had a conversation with you about? :p
I'd suggest doing something like this: http://www.hawk-hill.com/2014/09/hang-a-chandelier-in-a-room-without-wiring/
You can get DIY Chandelier kits from Home Depot or Lowe's. Just make it shorter than a typical chandelier. Then then put one of these in the light socket.
Maybe something like this if there is not a ground plug on the power cord. http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-1403-Outlet-Socket-Adapter/dp/B001F71O70/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377900815&sr=8-1&keywords=light+socket+adapter
Depending on how much juice you needed and how strongly you felt about the grounded outlet...here
Nah, I put one in before I knew much about wiring. Just watch some youtube videos and be sure to turn off the breaker.
I'd get one of those Voltage Detectors. I'm usually really careful but I would have been shocked a couple times if I didn't use the tester.
You could walk around the house and point a non contact voltage tester at everything. Recommendation.
It does high and low voltage - let me know if it picks up any ghosts as well, I might go on a journey with mine.
You can get a no-contact power tester at Home Depot, etc., while you are there buying a new outlet. :)
So, remove the outlet cover plate, but leave the outlet in. Stick the tester in the sides of the outlet, touching the wire, if it's live it will beep and blink. If there is no power, it does nothing. Typically outlets are wired with power coming in one side (left, for example), and out the other side (right, for example). So touch the left wire(s), then the right. If one side does not have power, that outlet is the problem.
Turn the power off, then read the directions that come with the outlet. They are really simple. You can either strip the wire and screw it onto the outlet terminal, or strip the wire and jam it into a little hole on the back. Check YouTube for "replace outlet" videos, and you will see how simple it is. It's like one screw to remove the outlet, then 2 screws for power, and one for the ground.
You don't need to go all out with a Fluke, just get a non-contact voltage tester for quick double-checking and a multimeter for all-around use.
Its basically just a voltage detector.
https://www.amazon.com/Voltage-Protection-Klein-Tools-NCVT-2/dp/B004FXJOQO
This is the voltage detector pen that I was telling you about, /u/achstuff:
​
Klein Tools NCVT-2 Dual Range Tester, Non Contact Tester for Standard and Low Voltage with 3-m Drop Protection
​
These are the RJ-45 Ethernet jacks that I use:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079K7XMGQ/
​
This is the crimper that I use (the wires pass through the jacks and then this cuts them)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00939KFOU/
​
And this is the tester that I use:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQH4XPW/
​
I have some other tools which I can list, but this the base set that you'd want to use to get rolling. The nice part about these particular jacks is that their bin's outside label has the diagram for the T568B standard (which you'll want to use (assuming you're crimping both sides of the cable) unless you're trying to match T568A)
Yes. Make sure you turn off the breaker. If you want to feel extra comfortable turn off all the circuits haha. Or get a circuit tester like this: http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-NCVT-2-Non-Contact-Voltage/dp/B004FXJOQO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1426008999&sr=8-3&keywords=circuit+tester
Just yesterday I fixed a light strand that was half out by using one of these:http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004FXJOQO, a current detector that I already owned.
A working, turned-on bulb will have current on both sides. A busted bulb will have current on only one side.
The top GPU is probably toast, and some component that we can't see probably fried. Whether or not it was due to the PSU, or just the GPU going out, I don't know.
I'd get a PSU tester (Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO/ ) to see if the PSU is still good before putting it into any rig again.
It is possible that irregular voltages could have damaged the GPU, but likely it's OK.
The best way to test a PSU is with an actual tester, this is the one I use: http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463180347&sr=8-2&keywords=power+supply+tester
You can also test each rail manually with a multimeter: http://pcsupport.about.com/od/toolsofthetrade/ht/power-supply-test-multimeter.htm
I can say with about 85% certainty that a new PSU will clear up your issues, but there is a small chance it's damaged another component.
If you have a pin remover (makeshift or actual) and the pinouts its a pretty simple process. Just be sure to triple check your work before plugging it into actual hardware. PSU testers (like the TT Dr power ii) are handy for that.
Extensions are easier to make, as you said 1 to 1, no hassle. Custom cables for modular PSU requires pin-out diagrams and a tester to insure that the cables are correct and won't "blow your rig." You may also run into double wires, which require a little more work to make them look good and function correctly.
In the end extensions are cheaper, less time consuming, and easier to install for most people. Custom cables are a lot more time consuming and require more tools to ensure that everything is kosher.
Lutro0's double wire guide.
RAM:
hit the windows-key
type mdsched
Run it now. This will check your ram for faults. It will take about 30 minutes to complete, and will tell you on the lower part of the screen if it's running okay (no faults found) or if there's problems. If you miss the warning on the screen while the test is running you can find results under event viewer.
Power Supply:
Find another to swap with and test. Or get one of these.
Motherboard:
When both the above fail, it's relatively safe to assume motherboard.
If what you describe is correct (Truly random restarts) Then it's likely one of these three things. If there's something else going on then we need more details to go on.
I've had one of these for a few years now. I consider it a pretty great investment as it's helped me out several times. Power supply tester.
Personally, I'm now in the habit of always using a UPS. The best part? I keep my internet stuff on a UPS too and I usually have internet during power outages. It's great.
This is some information about power strips.
When you hit the power button, does anything at all happen? Is there any clicking? Do the motherboard lights eventually go out? Do you have to reset the PSU before you can do anything? Or is it just absolutely flat out nothing when you press the switch?
I like Corsair PSU the most. JMHO
Before you spend that much money think of investing in a PSU tester. I have, this is my latest arrival.
https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO
Though it's difficult to tell without a tester or multimeter, it sounds like a bad PSU. Depending on the setup, a surge could have knocked it out (especially if there isn't any kind of voltage regulation between the outlet and the unit). What model / make is your power supply?
Here's a basic test you can perform with a paper clip. The color coding is Corsair-specific, but the methodology works for all ATX PSUs:
https://youtu.be/5FWXgQSokF4
I would also suggest popping onto /r/fixapc/ and posting this if you haven't already.
Did you build this PC yourself?
I would suggest checking to make sure that the stand-offs are properly installed. Also check your ground connection. It's definitely power related. Like something is retaining power that shouldn't or something is getting power that it shouldn't or something is not getting power that it should. Which is why I am checking for a short (the standoffs and ground). The other thing I would suggest is trying another power supply. You could also get yourself one of these to test your power supply. You don't need to get that fancy of one if you are OK with basic readouts. I just don't know what you skill level is when it comes to electrical work. If it's not the powersupply and not the standoffs I would lean towards the MoBo.
Good luck!
It could be your PSU, or your motherboard, if you want to know for sure:
https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO/
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005F778JO?cache=1036e9f35ec71cb01e3d3f2436b192cb&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1407733518&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1
I think you would have to use a dry contact switch. Like this
But I’m not 100%
As others said, most likely you'd add a z-wave dry contact switch like this one if you have a z-wave hub. That's the best solution I know of and you'd be just side-stepping the current RF function. There's good info in the reviews there about how to actually do this as well.
Use a dry contact switch instead, they have ones that fit induce a regular switch box.
https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI
If you look in the reviews it fits inside a paddle switch cover well.
Here is the guide I used to do this last fall:
http://thedataist.com/off-topic-how-to-automate-your-gas-fireplace/
Here is a link to the relay you will need:
Remotec Zwave Dry Contact Fixture Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00913ATFI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NFlDzbMX9NS25
Good luck!
I suspect that's part of it, and it's definitely worth it to me. The signal input is very flexible. I suspect the other part is Z-wave is a proprietary protocol and requires license. Finally, it's not exactly a high-volume device.
I think the mimolite is way more polished than other options. I wish their marketing would have more examples highlighting the possibilities. It can trigger on power loss, it can trigger when voltage is within a certain configurable range, or outside of a certain configurable range, it can use the signal to toggle the relay locally, it can use the signal to control other devices, it can be polled for signal or report on a configurable timed basis.
I have 2 of these, one for my garage door ( http://imgur.com/a/db2tQ ) and one for my doorbell ( http://imgur.com/a/fzUE3 )
Sure, this could have also done this with an AVR and an esp8266 for some awesome franken-MQTT device, but until I can set up a bench, this is much easier and faster to set up... and much easier to recommend.
If you just need a z-wave dry contact relay, there are other less pricey options. These would be great for something like low voltage zoned lighting, a fireplace, or electronic shut-off valve.
http://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Z-Wave-Isolated-Contact-Fixture/dp/B00ER6MH22
http://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI/
An important feature these options lack is a mode for momentary contact, which is handy when interfacing with buttons like a garage door, electric latch, or gate controller.
I did this exact thing with the Remotec Z-Wave relay.
I used this https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI/ref=mp_s_a_1_7 because I had it laying around, and it fit nicely (since I was replacing a simple one gang wall switch).
If I was doing it again today from scratch? Well, I went poking around Amazon, and was depressed that I didn't see anything cheaper or demonstrably better. One useful feature of the module I used is that there's a button on the front that will activate the relay if you don't/can't activate it through home automation
Often the fireplace controllers use a low voltage input to turn on the fireplace. You need a meter if you want to know what these wires are. My guess is that one of those wires is 12/24V DC from the controller, and the switch closes the circuit. Green is just ground.
Zwave switches require 120V AC, and send that to the load. I have no idea if code allows this, but if you want a ZWave switch you'd need to borrow AC power from the adjacent box, and use a relay switch similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI
EDIT: Actually, looking at the reviews, the best solution would be to use this relay in the fireplace enclosure, and connect it to the current switch: https://www.amazon.com/review/R2100DM2EPKO7Q/ref=cm_cr_dp_title?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B00913ATFI&channel=detail-glance&nodeID=228013&store=hi
Etekcity 10 Pack Power Extension Cord Cable, 16AWG-13A, UL Listed, 2015 Upgraded Version (Black, 1-Foot) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CEJW0WQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_COU6xbQJYJEX3
Probably not the fix for your situation, but I have way too many wallwarts and these are great https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CEJW0WQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
For the sake of isolating variables, see if you still have the same issues. If you do, an iso brick isn't going to fix it either.
Go on Amazon and get a pack of "plug saver"s or "outlet savers" get 16AWG. Something like this (but there may be cheaper, I just did a quick search) - https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Extension-Outlet-16AWG-13A-Listed/dp/B00CEJW0WQ
Check amazon for extension cords. They sell packs of 6/12 inch cords that you can plug into each outlet on a strip and then use to plug in any kind of accessory, like wall warts or smart plugs. It’s not elegant looking, but it’s the best way I’ve found to make use of every socket on a power strip, at least without getting a strip with outlets that rotate to give you more room.
Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Power-Extension-Outlet-Listed/dp/B00CEJW0WQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1538132865&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=extension+cord+for+power+strip&dpPl=1&dpID=51ySk%2B8E18L&ref=plSrch
Maybe these will work for you:
http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity%C2%AE-10-Pack-3-Prong-Extension-Approved/dp/B00CEJW0WQ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1413082770&sr=8-5&keywords=power+cord+extension
They are called liberators and you can buy them on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Power-Extension-Outlet-Listed/dp/B00CEJW0WQ/
But that big brick would take up 2-3 slots on my power strip. I hate when manufactures make me plug in bricks. I had to get these to deal with that issue.
you need to use these in that case
power strip extensions
Your welcome.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CEJW0WQ/ref=psdc_495312_t1_B075VJFCSS
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CEJW0WQ/
Those are perfect keeping your power strip from being clogged up with wall warts and things like smart power outlets. They really come in handy, I'm already on my second 10 pack of them.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CEJW0WQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1451235262&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=1+foot+extension+cord&dpPl=1&dpID=51chRXo62qL&ref=plSrch
Sorry for the super long link, but these will change your life.
I would focus more on the smart switch aspect and less on the monitoring aspect. You could get an energy monitor that is capable of observing total consumption of your home. Look at Sense or Aeotec, they both have products for that. I think they can both slowly begin to identify individual devices, their consumption, and alert you when they're on or if they've been on for longer than a predefined amount of time.
There's a broader range of products that are simple z-wave devices and don't focus on energy monitoring. However, 20 Amp zwave deives are a bit hard to find. Aeotec has one for up to 220v and 40amps, which may work.
Go Control has a similar product for 20 Amp 120 circuits.
https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Z-Wave-Isolated-Contact-Fixture/dp/B00ER6MH22/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487358563&sr=8-1&keywords=gocontrol+isolated+contact
There aren't really market z-wave products that run on low-volt. Assuming you have a gas fireplace with thermopile switch, your best bet is this dry-contact switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Z-Wave-Isolated-Contact-Fixture/dp/B00ER6MH22/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482810232&sr=8-2&keywords=dry+contact+switch
You would either plug it into an outlet or junction box to power the z-wave connectivity and connect the isolated contact sides to the same circuit your thermopile is on to turn on the fireplace. There was a Wink users group post about it a month ago or so, but I can't seem to find it. I'm the one inquiring about how to connect it, so it was news to me at the time.
So you will need to remove the remote module that's currently installed and replace it with just a Zwave relay.
Edit - something like this
This might work: GoControl Z-Wave Isolated Contact Fixture Module - FS20Z-1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ER6MH22/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_WbLNwbTX866Z0
A mimolite would also likely work.
The remotec module has the external switch input, so that's what made it so easy. You can keep your switch on the wall working as intended.
The mimolite has an input, but I'm not sure if it would work the same as the remotec.
I use one of these for each garage door lift, and a cheap zigbee open/close sensor to automate my garage doors based on mine and my wife's location, and time of day. Happy to share my code if you think it'd be helpful.
Advanced/box mod starter setup.
For an OKR-T10 mod.
I should mention that, yes, I am friends with /u/DBLiquids, but I am not doing this at his request. This is my own doing, and for fairness I also linked to a second Duke vendor as well.
Here for the Duke, curently the product has been removoed from the site due to some issues with the shopping cart.
here for the Duke again,
and here (again) for the Zorro.
The Zorro is a passthrough you will not need any batteries for this as it comes with a power supply. As for batteries for the Duke look for 10 amp 2900 mAh batteries from here. They must be niple top for ease of use.
I am going to stop here, and go over some battery safety with you.
For a charger my top three suggestions are in order:
As for an atomizer you should get a TOBH, an iGo-W or iGo-W 4.
Kanthal you can get from Amazon. I would suggest the 28 gauge that I linked.
Something to wrap around, multimeter, screwdrivers, tweezers, pliers, cotton, and large butane torch. I will not link these as you either have them already, or they can be easily sourced locally at either your local hardware store or drug emporium.
First side note on the cotton just make sure that it is bleached with hydrogen peroxide and not bleach. Organic or bleached with hydrogen peroxide are both fine. Boil if you want, but it is not necessary.
Second side note The prices for the batteries and chargers are manufacture direct. Amazon is your friend if you want a better price. look at Illumination Supply will also be a good source for batteries if you want to price hunt.
Hi!
First off, congrats on wanting to quit. = )
I have this Kayfun 3.1 (the one on the left, though that isn't my pic), which I believe is Tobeco. I say believe because I got it from a local B&M. I know the owners and it's what they use so I didn't bother to ask as I knew it would work. I've had absolutely no problems with it whatsoever and love it. Best flavors I've ever had, super easy to rebuild once you get the hang of it, no leaks, threads are like butter.
Getting a 3.1 over the Lite was just a choice of how much juice I wanted to carry.
I got my wire from here and bought organic cotton from Walgreens.
As far as juice goes, if you're trying to save some money I'd suggest Mt Baker Vapor. There's a post I saved from someone here who ordered an obscene amount of Mt Baker juice for under $100 and I can find it if you want because it came down to bottle size. I'm sure you'll get plenty of other great recommendations.
What batteries do you have? I have a stingray and an igo-w and with my vtc4s it works fine, but with my 1600 mah efests it won't fire because the insulation on the battery covers some of the 510 connection. I think there is the same issue with the efest 35 amp only with the firing button, I don't know for sure.
So to be safe I'd recommend sony vtc4s or 5's with the stingray. And the igo is great but I think the Omega would be better since it has adjustable airflow. The intellicharger i2 is cheap and good. For the kanthal I think 28 would be the most versatile.
The stillare clone would be great too.
Lots of good info about things to research as a beginner already posted.
As for gear, I would suggest something like a stingray x. It is a very snazzy mech mod, and you can get them relatively cheap. SXK made a solid clone, and they are sold as SXK and also as Infinite.
I would suggest an Infinite CLT for an atomizer. Extremely solid RDA, its cheap, has adjustable air flow, and decent size post holes, which will allow you to experiment with different types of builds as you get more comforatble. If you don't mind a tighter air flow, the tugboat v1 has really good flavor, and you can get one for like 9 bucks on 101vape.com, so that is another option.
I would start out with 28 gauge kanthal, you can find it here for under $8 for 100 ft.
Battery charges, I would suggest either an efest luc v4 (a bit more expensive) or an nitecore intellicharger. I think they both come in 2 or 4 bay. For batteries, Sony VTC4 will handle most builds that you would run, but be sure to find an ohm reader so you can test what you build, very important when you are starting out.
http://www.amazon.com/TEMCo-Kanthal-Wire-Gauge-Resistance/dp/B00FBSVQX6/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1409425256&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=28g+kanthal+wire
found this kanthal on amazon, and already added that charger to my basket.
Here is the link to save you some time
I highly recommend you take it to another store and ask them if they can build your first coils for you. Most places will do it for you for free if you buy a small container of ejuice from them. Ask if you can watch them build it, and ask questions about what type of wire, wick, diameter of the coil, etc. I've found that every good store is glad to help train new users and won't make you feel bad about starting in the hobby. Get used to how their coil acts, performs, etc. Some of my local places have 'build and brunch' days, where they invite lots of people to come in and get help, learn about stuff, share tips, etc.
You're also going to want a few spare batteries (so one can charge while you're using the other), a battery charger, wick, wire, and an ohm meter.
You can compare prices on Amazon to make sure you're not paying 2x retail.
Cheap ohm meter: http://amzn.com/B00KI0BMMC
I'm sure you can get better ones, but I have this. It matches the readings on my evic, so I'm reasonably sure it's accurate.
Wire cutters: http://amzn.com/B00FZPDG1K
Kanthal wire:
24g http://amzn.com/B00H8DQ01U
26g http://amzn.com/B00JTGYS40
28g http://amzn.com/B00FBSVQX6
Never hook up new coils to your battery without doing a resistance check first. Results can be very very bad.
You don't even need a hub to make that work. Here is the kit you need:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJY0S4G/
You'll also want the wall adapter for the remote.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JZRAFEA/
The remotes have a 10 year battery life and the battery is easy to change.
The Caseta switch will not control dimming of smart bulbs. It will only control dimming of normal bulbs screwed into lights it switches. Another option is the lamp dimmer which plugs into an outlet and then you plug the lamp into it. Again it will only control a normal bulb. If you’re smart bulbs are zigbee. Lutron makes a wireless pico remote called the connected bulb remote that can be mounted to the wall. That may work for you
Remote:
Lutron LZL-4B-WH-L01 Connected Bulb Remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014STZASK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9uobAb02YR3KA
Wall bracket:
Lutron PICO-WBX-ADAPT Pico Wallplate Bracket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JZRAFEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5vobAbMH0D9B0
Edited with link
Can likely use same wall plate for Lutron Caseta
For Pico remotes you need to get a wall bracket to install in gang box (can use same wall plate)
https://www.amazon.com/Caseta-Wireless-Wallplate-Bracket-PICO-WBX-ADAPT/dp/B00JZRAFEA
I have the same issue so i went with the following:
1 x Lutron Connected Bulb remote
1 x Cree Connected Light bulb
1 x Lutron PICO-WBX-ADAPT Pico Wallplate Bracket
1 x Lutron Claro Wall Plate
I leave the light permanently "on", and removed the chain. The bulb is controlled by the remote, which i then put on the wall outside the storage closet so it looks just like a normal light switch for the room.
All up, about $50, no wiring needed, looks like it is meant to be there, and best thing, if you end up expanding your Home Automation with a hub, the remote talks to Wink (although Wink are having trouble with the cree connected bulb lately. The remote also works with GE link bulbs, but you need a Wink hub for that to work.
I didn't want to (or wasn't ready) to replace ceiling fans, and my light and fan were wired separately, so I opted for the Lutron Caseta in-wall dimmer for the light and the GE smart fan controller for the fan.
This setup works perfectly with Wink and Echo if you ignore Wink sees the fan controller as a light (just name it ceiling fan) and therefore, doesn't understand low, medium, or high (so I say off, 25%, 50%, or 100%).
I'll warn that I was quite happy with my Lutron switches until I saw how sleekly GE incorporated dimming into their Decora-style rocker switch ... which people are more accustomed to. Average Joe walks in, and although the Caseta is clearly labeled, they have a tendency to freak out.
On the other hand, what filthy peasant is still using their hands? ;-)
There are a whole bunch of options available. I just listed 3 below:
https://www.amazon.com/iDevices-Wall-Switch-Required-Single/dp/B06Y5G7XPJ/ref=sr_1_5?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1511056280&sr=1-5&keywords=idevices&dpID=41mQiJ8aAOL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
https://www.amazon.com/LUTRON-PD-6WCL-WH-Caseta-Wireless-Dimmer/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1511056299&sr=8-1-spons&ppw=fresh&keywords=lutron%2Bcaseta%2Bdimmer&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-DW1KD-1BZ-Incandescent-Required-Assistant/dp/B01MS6JDUW/ref=sr_1_9_f_f_it?s=amazonfresh&ie=UTF8&qid=1511056365&sr=1-9&ppw=fresh&keywords=levitron%2Bdimmer%2Bswitch&th=1
Put in any light fixture and bulbs you want and use a Lutron Caseta in wall dimmer switch. First light switch is about 100 bucks,
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-P-BDG-PKG1W-Caseta-Wireless-Selected/dp/B00MXCRAX8/ref=sr_1_3?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1482958038&sr=1-3&keywords=lutron+caseta
This includes the Smart hub needed to make it internet accessible.
Each additional switch thereafter is around 50$.
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Caseta-Wireless-Dimmer-150-Watt/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=sr_1_2?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1482958148&sr=1-2&keywords=lutron+caseta
You can also purchase them with remotes for $60
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-600-watt-150-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G/ref=sr_1_1?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1482958148&sr=1-1&keywords=lutron+caseta
and you can purchase plug in versions that allow you to control standard lamps and such ($60)
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Caseta-Wireless-Dimmer-300-watt/dp/B00JJY1QG0/ref=sr_1_7?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1482958148&sr=1-7&keywords=lutron+caseta
Lutron Caseta is not only compatible with alexa, ("alexa turn my living room to 50%" "alexa turn off my bed room" "alexa turn my living room to 10%" etc.) it is also fully homekit enabled. ("Hey siri, set my chamber to 2%" ) and utilizing the home app on your iDevice, you can set up schedules and such, for example my bedroom light turns on to 10% 30min before my alarm, and up to 50% 5 minutes before my alarm. This really helps me wake up on time.
Lutron caseta work great. worth the money
Well...yes. I’ve got numerous lutron caseta dinners and they require no neutral.
They linked you to the family of products, but the dimmer in question is this:
Lutron Caseta Smart Home Dimmer Switch, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, and the Google Assistant | for LED Light Bulbs, Incandescent Bulbs and Halogen Bulbs | PD-6WCL-WH | White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2FATDbKD3M7S4
You could do this using zwave devices. It will cost some money up front but you'll have a solid base to build out more complex home automation tasks if you want to.
You can turn any computer into a local "hub" with a Zwave USB dongle. This one is pricey but works really well. Plug that into a spare laptop lying around the house or buy a Raspberry PI.
Install the Home Assistant package on the computer or PI that you plugged the dongle into. This makes it easy to send and receive signals from Zwave devices without having to learn a bunch of low level APIs. You can write automation commands using YAML markup or write complex, custom tasks using Python. Home Assistant is just a bundle of open source free software, so I don't think of it as a "service", but you could roll your own software if you like that replaces it. It all runs locally, not in the cloud, so you own and control it.
Now you can buy any Zwave switch you want. GE has a bunch of reasonable priced switches.
You can get an "add on" switch that does not hook into your home power but controls smart light bulbs like Hue using over the air signals.
Or you can buy a real switch that does control existing lights through the power in your home -- this will let you send signals to your switch using your Home Assistant "hub" to turn lights on or off and dim them without having to replace existing bulbs.
Have fun.
What you want to accomplish is certainly possible, however, you have a 3-way switch, so you will have to replace both switches. GE makes a 3-way compatible z-wave dimmer switch that I've used in my house that I've been pretty happy with. You will need to install the z-wave dimmer on your load switch (where the hot line comes in) and an "add-on" switch on the other 3-way switch. The photo you posted appears to be of your non-load switch since there isn't a black line connected to the switch, but to be sure you should test the load portion of the switch with a multimeter.
Here's links to the GE switches I use:
GE Z-Wave Dimmer
Add-On Switch
Edit: Upon looking at the photo you posted again, I do see a black line, but I can't see how it's connected to the switch. It's possible this is your primary load switch, but again I'm would test with a multimeter to be sure.
You need a switched module (not lamp) and it will handle the fluorescents just fine. GE smart switch with a remote should do the job.
You don't have to rewire anything. One of your light switches is the real switch, and the other is connected to that first switch (not to the main power) Install the GE module at the real switch location, and install the remote at the other, it uses the same wiring.
If you're not sure you can tell the difference, or are concerned about doing a true 3 way, then you can use 1 GE smart module, and velcro an Aeotech Zwave remote near the other location to control it remotely.
Switch
Remote
Aeotech Remote
Thanks! That switch looks great. And I see that the website advertises Nexia compatibility so that's good.
In the picture I posted, the stair lights have 2 switches that control them. Would I get one of these smart switches and one of the add-on paddles?
SmartThings Version 3 Hub (I have the Version 2 Hub...you will have to look around for this one):
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Generation-GP-U999SJVLGDA-Automation/dp/B07FJGGWJL/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989501&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=smartthings+hub+2nd+generation&psc=1
GE Z-Wave Plus On/Off Light Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989582&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave+switch
GE Z-Wave Plus Dimmer Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B07361Y54Z/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989582&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave%2Bswitch&th=1
GE Add On Switch (if you have a 3-way or 4-way switch):
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-STANDALONE-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989718&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave+add+on+switch
ZigBee Motion Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F8ZHBLS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
ZigBee Door Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F956F3B/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
ZigBee Leak Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F951JDP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
ZigBee Outlet Plug (you will need to replicate your ZigBee mesh, I use to motion activate lamps, turn lamps on/off at sunset/sunrise, etc.):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F96JB63/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
Z-Wave Thermostat:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005EJ7YO2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
ZigBee RGB Landscape RGB LED Strips:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R1PB2ZY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
ZigBee RGB Lightbulbs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073ZBYXKQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Z-Wave Deadbolt:
https://www.amazon.com/Kwikset-SmartCode-Electronic-SmartThings-featuring/dp/B004F1B24I/ref=sr_1_12?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990126&sr=1-12&keywords=z-wave+lock
Z-Wave Garage Door Opener:
https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990160&sr=1-4&keywords=z-wave+garage+door+opener
Sonos One Speakers (Great music, and talking through SmartThings):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XN1LH3/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Amazon Echo Show (for Voice Control...an Echo Dot will work just fine too):
https://www.amazon.com/All-new-Echo-Show-2nd-Gen/dp/B077SXWSRP/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990254&sr=1-1&keywords=echo+show
That's about all I can think of at the moment.
If you are going to do this, do it in stages. Z-Wave and ZigBee are mesh networks...meaning that the reliability of the network gets much better the more devices you have. Also, with these mesh networks:
I see so many people complaining about how the Z-Wave or ZigBee devices don't work, when they are relying on too many battery operated devices.
For Z-Wave devices, choose Z-Wave Plus over Z-Wave...it's the newest standard, and has much better range.
In the US, Z-Wave operates in the 900 MHz spectrum and ZigBee in the 2.4 GHz spectrum. Personally, I "prefer" Z-Wave devices as there is a lot of "junk" in the 2.4 GHz spectrum right now. However, the ZigBee devices are operating reliably as I have a strong mesh setup (with non-battery operated devices).
Two great application for the Leak Sensors:
Great applications for door open/close sensors:
Great Application for Motion Sensors
The motion sensors I linked above are the new ones...the magnetically mount. What's cool is that the magnet is in the sensor, and it's strong enough to attach the sensor to a dry wall screw (no need to mount the adapter bracket).
Yeah, sorry, I didn't know how to phrase that properly. I meant I replaced the switches in a 4 way circuit.
It's not the standard 1 4-way and 2 3-way switches, though.
One of these - https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2
And two add on switches - https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-Lighting-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ
So I twisted together the hot line and a traveler to send power to box 2 where I installed the primary switch.
Right now I also have the load line in box three twisted with a traveler to send that to box 2 as well.
So the circuit should be only operable by one switch now, or so I'd think.
Edit: this circuit previously had a 4 way switch in box 2 and 3 way switches in boxes 1 and 3
They are currently $16
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=pd_sim_421_8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=1BYZ0MK34QEHRJMPAEQP
The Trane works without the subscription, but the GoControl for the garage door does not.
Yes. Z-wave water heater switch.
Are you aware of this product? Not sure if it covers your amperage requirements: https://smile.amazon.com/GE-Appliance-Required-Works-SmartThings-14285/dp/B00YTCZZF0?sa-no-redirect=1
Second the smart relay.. here's one on Amazon that is even advertised for pool pumps.. I've had good luck with the GE Zwave receptacles inside my house using a SmartThings hub.
I did a google search with the terms "120v smart plug outdoor" and got this:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12720/dp/B00YTCZZF0?th=1
Lutron Connected Bulb Remote
Lutron LZL-4B-WH-L01 Connected Bulb Remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014STZASK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jOkgAbY6SC8AF
You can use this so that they can just hit the switch in their room. I bought mine for 19 so they are a little expensive right now.
I've used these in places where I have smart bulbs
http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-LZL-4B-WH-L01-Connected-Bulb-Remote/dp/B014STZASK
Can be used as a handheld remote control, or there is a bracket you can get for like $5 to mount it in an existing box on your wall
Oh look,
$17
Lutron LZL-4B-WH-L01 Connected Bulb Remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014STZASK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_F4xizbVVSS6K1
They do make another remote called the connected bulb remote that does what you want. I went through the same thing you did with the pico remote...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014STZASK/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_10?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Just bought a few of these at Home Depot: http://amzn.com/B014STZASK
I think theyre exactly what you're looking for. They can control most smart bulbs and are sized like a regular decora switch so you can pop it in the wall and have it look like it's wired in.
If you just want a switch that turns a fan on/off with no speed control, you can use Lutron Caseta's non-dimming switch. It requires a neutral wire.
I have never heard of LC before this thread so I trotted over to Amazon to see what I could see. The 2nd non-sponsored result was Caseta Wireless Smart Lighting Switch for All Bulb Types and Fans, PD-6ANS-WH, White, Works with Amazon Alexa. Is there really no fan control or am I misunderstanding?
They are fairly easy to install IF you are comfortable with electricity. They do come with easy to follow instructions.
Here is what you need: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017LRCG38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wV2ozbBHNPJ6X
Both my Eufy Tunable SmartBulbs and TP-Link SmartBulbs will do this. The difference is when they are in the OFF state, you need to flip their corresponding switch off and then back on; at this point they return to a default ON state and a dimmer knob will adjust the brightness.
EDIT: If you’re sold on going the dinner switch method, you’ll probably need to go with something like this but it requires a hub to work with Alexa/GHome.
The dimmer is pretty pricey and specifically made for Hue lights.
The other product, I've gotten for half-price what it is on Amazon right now. It won't connect to the Hue bridge though so I have it connected through Smartthings to control my Hue lights.
I don't personally have this, but I've seen others talk about it, so it may be worth looking into, but Sylvania Lightify Dimming Switch should be able to do it with the device handler created by the community.
Product: https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-Smart-Dimming-Switch-Formerly/dp/B0196M620Y
Device Handler: https://community.smartthings.com/t/release-osram-lightify-smart-dimming-switch-ultra-fast-zigbee-handler-no-smart-app/54909
Then Lightify is the only option really, but it does require a hub as well. The link below should be the one.
https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-LIGHTIFY-Wireless-SmartThings-Assistant/dp/B0196M620Y
I'm totally new to this; setting up my Wink Hub 2 / Sengled Lights today, and only have a few WiFi based outlets / lights right now.
But, here's what I'm looking at to control Zigbee lights that are in a lamp on a "dumb outlet"... SYLVANIA LIGHTIFY ZigBee 2 Button Wireless Dimmer Switch, Works with SmartThings, Wink, or Echo Plus, etc.
For Z-Wave, I found this: NanoMote that seems the most straight-forward or "simple".
Here's a few others I came across as well, https://www.zwaveproducts.com/shop/controllers/z-wave-remotes.
Might see if there's a popular controller among this community though!
I use the Sylvania Lightify Dimming Switch. It works with SmartThings and Zigbee bulbs.
https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-LIGHTIFY-Wireless-SmartThings-Assistant/dp/B0196M620Y
Can you pair 3rd party zigbee bulbs to your existing hue setup and use remotes for that? This guy did it but no mention of remotes:
www.howtogeek.com/216811/how-to-add-third-party-smart-bulbs-to-your-philips-hue-system/amp/
you are basically asking for smart switch functionality without installing smart switches which is a tough ask at that price point. You could try this: https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-LIGHTIFY-Wireless-SmartThings-Assistant/dp/B0196M620Y
Smart switches are probably the best in MOST situations.
The reasons to go with a bulb (In my opinion) are:
If you do go with bulb there are some ways to get around some of the problems of the switch behavior with smart bulbs:
I asked a question recently about switches to use with Hue bulbs here
You'll want just a scene controller.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196M620Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GLtSAb8MTNX3E
Otherwise you'll be controlling the fan which might burn the motor.
Maybe something like this
https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-LIGHTIFY-Wireless-SmartThings-Assistant/dp/B0196M620Y
Easiest first thing to do is add a Google Home (or Alexa but sounds like you’re in the Google ecosystem). This gives voice control to anyone in the house. Next I would consider adding some physical switches for the bulbs - you’ll probably need a hub like SmartThings unless you’re willing to wire them in because all the WiFi switches need power. Here is a wireless example https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196M620Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9w5Xzb56QC5K0
Definitely can't mix any smarttlights with a dimmer switch. To dim them, you should use the app or their battery powered switch: http://amzn.com/B0196M620Y
You could just buy something like this https://www.amazon.com/Controller-Dimmer-Wireless-Remote-Control/dp/B00IUGQSKM/
and if you want to have Alexa control it, you can either build your own IR device or buy one.
DIY: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JysKXOdrOlM&feature=youtu.be
already built but not as flexible: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FK2SDOC/
it may be a round about way to do it, and it will require some work, but it will do what you are asking.
I have this on the way.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FK2SDOC/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_api_u4ogAb6FWVTK1
I believe it’s exactly what your looking for.
So, basically you're looking for something like this, but one that works with Google home? So far I haven't found an ir blaster compatible with GH besides the harmony hub, so let me know if you find one :)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FK2SDOC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YMYgAbFH4HWH5
The other thing you should consider is this: https://www.amazon.com/Broadlink-RM-Mini3-Universal-Controller-Compatible/dp/B01FK2SDOC if you configure all your IR devices as "Tvs" they then move over to alexa as a device so you can use through them into your routines :)
Never tried it myself but read about this device in this subreddit, Broadlink RM Mini3 might work. Bit cheaper too than the Harmony Hub. But I dont have any experience with it. I was planning to get one myself just to see what it can do.
You could get the rm mini or rm pro, which acts like an IR repeater and works with alexa. It will take the remotes commands and repeat them to your tv. So once it learms power on/off, volume, channels from your remote, you can ask alexa via commands to control these elements. I use it for 2 of my Samsung TVs and I’ve never had an issue with them.
broadlink rm mini 3
broadlink rm pro
I don't have any experience with them, but the Broadlink hubs can pair with Alexa. I was considering one before I found a good deal on a Harmony.
>Is there a way to make the device to default "on" when plugged in?
In general, this is going to need physical tinkering, like bypassing the on/off with wires. You need a certain level of electrical knowledge to do this safely, and will void warranties and so on in the process. It's usually simpler to buy a different device with a different kind of switch on it, or that's already "Smart".
The night light you link to shows a remote control. There are a number of "Smart Remote Controllers" on the market (example 1, example 2). Possibly you can make use of one of them to control the item in this case.
Cheaper solution is a Broadlink RM and the unofficial skill.
Broadlink RM Mini can controller anything that uses infared like the TV or A/C.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FK2SDOC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IOLWDbWRTCWBG
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FK2SDOC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MHoJzbTDMR82G
Look at the Broadlink RM on Amazon. It'll do most IR remote controls for fans, blinds or lights.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FK2SDOC
Here's a review: https://stephenradford.me/homekit-ir-blaster-controlling-my-tv-with-homekit/
I bought one two weeks ago and hope to set it up this week. (Been swamped with work) Be aware it does require installing Homebridge so you'll need either a Mac that's always on or a Raspberry PI to get it to work with HomeKit/Siri.
If you don't want to mess with Homebridge then a Homekit compatible IR controller for blinds and fans is Bond. I know next to nothing about it:
https://bondhome.io
I made my own overflow box that I 3d printed.
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/dXNkANrABFp-mini-aquarium-overflow-pump-v2
You can also DIY one with tubes or cups or buy one off amazon. It's literally just two boxes connected by a siphon.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AArgrqZLyvA
The Wifi plug is a built in timer, you can run a schedule and control it with an app.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K1JVZOE
If you're going to go remote outlet and are OK with smart home stuff, I really like these from TP-Link if you're OK with "smart home" type stuff.
I've had some for about a year now and they've worked really nicely for misc. stuff around my (primarily lights).
for $5 more the Plug Mini is a better option:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Control-Anywhere-HS100/dp/B01K1JVZOE/ref=gbps_tit_m-3_62d6_ada80ab9?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=ffcb75c7-e01d-4198-b44a-8ee857d262d6&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=14611812011&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=VRBXMTHZCS89MZNSA860&th=1
You can do this on the cheap but you'll have to compromise on a few things.
​
You'll need a smart plug that does not require a hub. I like the TP-Link smart plug.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Occupies-HS105-Wall-Light-Electronic-Component-switches/dp/B01K1JVZOE/ref=sr_1_8?crid=JC3FOI5287VF&keywords=tp+link+smart+plug&qid=1550610795&s=gateway&sprefix=tp+link+%2Caps%2C215&sr=8-8
​
I only have experience with Android, but you can use Google Assistant on your phone to voice activate the switch. I find that the mic on my S8+ doesn't always hear me correctly so I like using a Google Home Mini better.
​
I believe you can do the same thing if you download the Alexa app on your phone.
​
The problem with smart plugs is that you can only control the light with your phone. If the outlet is wired to a light switch, you need to make sure the light switch is always on.
I'm thinking that perhaps this was one of the trade-offs to get to market. As technology marches on, things tend to get smaller. I had the same complaint as you but I found smaller outlet switches that you can stack on top of each other on a standard outlet by TP-Link (TP-Link Smart Plug, Wi-Fi, Works with Alexa, Only Occupies one Socket (HS105),Wall-Light, Electronic-Component-switches, 1-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K1JVZOE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qAT1BbAV1Y4RD). Honestly, now I have a surplus of those things as I've moved to smart power strips (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071ZGDDQG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_OJT1BbP8K2Y6R). To take it a step further, might even consider these (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GB7WFZH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_ZLT1Bb49TWG2S).
There is always a solution.
great thanks, is this the one? https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Required-Anywhere-Assistant-HS105/dp/B01K1JVZOE/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1542196857&sr=8-5&keywords=Tp+link
If I understand your question correctly, as long as your truck is parked within WiFi Range you could buy one of these smart plugs, then use IFTTT to set up a trigger using the Weather Underground service in conjunction with the TP-Link Kasa service to create an applet that will turn the outlet on if the temperature drops below a certain limit (in this case 32° f). You could also set up another applet to turn the outlet off if the weather rises above a certain temp or turn it off at a certain time in the morning (when you leave for work for example).
This might sound more difficult to set up than it actually is. Creating a new applet is as simple as tapping a few buttons in an app on your phone and there are even ones that already exist out there to do what you want, all you have to do is turn them on.
You should be able to use any smart WiFi outlet as long as it has IFTTT support. I just suggested the TP-Link one because I have a few and I found they work well.
I got this one with an echo dot:
TP-Link Smart Plug Mini (1-Pack) -- No Hub Required, Wi-Fi, Control your Devices from Anywhere, Occupies Only One Socket, Works with Alexa and Google Assistant (HS105) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01K1JVZOE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4efUBbAW41N01
I like the features and its pretty easy to set up.
Well there's a mini now same retail price as the old one, they're just discounting to get rid of stock I bet
Cheap usually doesn't mean reliable-drama free performance. For that I'd recommend TP-Link Smart Plugs
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Occupies-HS105-Wall-Light-Electronic-Component-switches/dp/B01K1JVZOE/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=tp-link+smart+plug&qid=1572647565&sr=8-7
A smart plug is a wifi enabled plug that will allow you to turn things plugged into it on and off through the internet. An Alexa-enabled smart plug lets you also do it by voice command or Routine with Alexa. Here's an example, though there are many brands and types available.
The Harmony Hub would let you control all your entertainment components that have IR remotes with Alexa though.
A timer like this one with a lamp plugged through it. The lamp would be ideally pointed straight at your face and be a 100-watt or equivalent.
Dude, buy her a socket timer and save both of you some stress:
https://www.amazon.com/Century-Indoor-24-Hour-Mechanical-Outlet/dp/B01LPSGBZS/ref=asc_df_B01LPSGBZS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167139094796&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1011593326816466711&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9021895&hvtargid=pla-307469470485&psc=1
I totally get it. Personally, as long as things don't get out of balance I try not to fret about screen time too much.
If you're really concerned I'd recommend getting a outlet timer. Say that the new rule is that the TV needs to go to sleep and can't wake up until noon or something. Say that we're making this decision together to make sure our minds and bodies grow and are healthy.
Then provide other things that he can use to entertain himself. Building sets, crafts, books, etc. He'll definitely find something when left to it. Remember how entertaining sticks were when left with nothing else? He'll adapt.
I too would recommend nest, very easy to set up and monitor.
Additionally, I would recommend one of the following: a smart outlet, a smart light switch, or a few manual timers ([similar to this] (https://www.amazon.com/Century-Indoor-24-Hour-Mechanical-Outlet/dp/B01LPSGBZS/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1537666467&sr=8-16&keywords=circuit+timer)). Then plug in a desk lamp or floor lamp in various rooms and set them to turn on/off at various times. Will simulate someone being at home.
It's hard to say but I'd suggest at least 3x a week if not daily, anywhere from 25-50%...it's more to make sure the water stays clean for the one with fin rot than anything. I wouldn't expect the bloom to last more than a few days. You can also turn the lights off for a day or two and see if it helps.
A plug-in timer would be something similar to this (I just randomly pulled this off Amazon so am not endorsing this product, just using as an example). I get them from Walmart/Target, usually found where the extension cords and power strips are kept.
It might be janky, but you could plug them into timers for the three outlets. Time each outlet to turn on long enough to charge and then turn off. You'd still have to see if you can charge 50 at a time. Something like this -- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LPSGBZS/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_ht2RCb0SECW8K
I've never had problems with this kind of basic and cheap mechanical timer - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LPSGBZS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_3elSCbFG61K6Z
Simple and as easy to program as it gets. Cheap enough that you can buy spares just in case.
I think your problem is the C wire... per your comment you have RC/W/Y/G... you need a C.
If your unit has a C terminal but unused, you can use the adapter ecobee's include to make a 4 wire system work. If not, then you might need something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Transformer-Honeywell-Thermostat-Fyve-Global/dp/B075PN6NCV/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511237224&sr=8-3&keywords=c++wire+adapter
in addition to the adapter ecobee includes to give you power. Then treat that as your C... I haven't personally done this, maybe someone here can give you more feedback.
99% chance you need a C wire. Myself and many others with 2 wire boiler systems were in this boat (even down to getting the same error e195). The good news is that it sounds like you already have a third wire in your walls, even if it isn't hooked up. You could just try and connect the wire to your boiler transformer but I wouldn't recommend this. Those transformers weren't meant to power both the boiler and an additional device (the Nest) and you'll likely see more power problems. Instead, you could purchase a plug-in external transformer, plug it in near your boiler, and send power over the C wire (there's lots of articles on how to do this - it's dead easy). I've been running mine in this configuration for a year with zero e195 errors. I actually had to take the extra step of installing a FastStat CommonMaker to "fake" a third wire as I didn't have one in my walls but luckily you don't have to do that.
**EDIT: You do not require a Nest Pro installer for this... if you were able to install your Nest then you will be able to do the above very easily.
Am I seeing correctly that this is a wood-burning furnace with electric backup? That's fun- I don't often see those around here (western PA, USA)!
Personally, I get a little nervous about splicing in wires to control boards without photos. It *looks* like you should be ok in this case, but it might be better to just use a plug-in 24V transformer (~$15 USD) https://www.amazon.com/Transformer-Honeywell-Thermostat-Fyve-Global/dp/B075PN6NCV
Ok just making sure. Call the maintenance guy for the apartement complex and see if he can help you get it sorted. My guess is that you have a standard R and W wire (no idea which is which without seeing the boiler). If you need a C wire, you're going to need to have a plug in transformer.
If you don’t have an extra wire, you can buy a 24v wall wort to power the nest. It isn’t pretty but it works.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075PN6NCV/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_G6eSAbRZ5368R
The easiest solution would be to go with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076MGKTGS/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_iTnJDbPWF33T2
The work great with the Hue bulbs and can be mounted on the wall like a regular switch. There are other similar options, but in my opinion these look the best and are the most user friendly. Might be a good interim solution even if you decide to get into a more sophisticated system like Smartthings or Home Assistant.
My girlfriend also hates using Alexa to control lights so I've done a similar thing and set presets for color and brightness based on time of day which greatly reduces how often she has to deal with the lights. Motion sensor that trigger simple lights like hallways and bathrooms work well too.
Mostly a gimmick. A fun gimmick, but a gimmick nonetheless. It really depends on what your budget is. Is approx $20/bulb worth it for a novelty? For me, it was in a few places, but I probably wouldn't do it again. The temperature thing is now a must after having the color and the ambient. I hope to never go back to a single temp bulb again. That's worth $15 premium of the ambient over the cheap white ones.
Get the dimmer switches. 100% worth the money. Then put these guards over your current switches.
I think you don't really grasp how the hue bulbs work. They need to have continuous power to operate, this allows them to turn on and off, dim and change colour.
If you power off the lamp, you're cutting off the power to the system in the bulb that controls it. It's like expecting your google home to work if you turn it off at the wall.
You have four options for physical switches, that vary in price from cheapest to most expensive.
As an FYI - TRÅDFRI can pair with the Hue Bridge
Keep the trådfri bulbs but get a Hue Bridge instead of the Ikea hub. Then you can pair them with the hue dimmer switch. Works fine for me in my living room that doesn't have any physical switches.
https://www.amazon.com/Philips-Dimmer-Switch-Installation-Free-Exclusively/dp/B076MGKTGS/
Caseta makes a great product, I use them everywhere - both the smart dimmers, and switches, and also use their non-smart motion sensing switches.
Having said that, you can't use voltage switches with smart bulbs!
At least not the current generation, and since they need to maintain state non likely in the future unless the add non-volatile storage and that will get expensive.
You need to use a "virtual switch" of some type, one that basically sends data commands to the bulbs like your phone does. I have about 30 smart bulbs in my place and so believe me it's a sore spot.
The good news for you is that since you have Hue bulbs (too expensive for the number I wanted), you can use the Hue Dimmer Switch which is designed just for this purpose:
No wiring needed, just paste it to a wall somewhere and connect to your hue hub.
I use a combination of the Brilliant Switch and the SmartThings controller to kind of do the same things, but my bulbs are Tuya which doesn't have an integration yet, so it's a kludgy solution.
Had this same situation. The best solution for me was to buy a Philips Hue LED bulb and this switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076MGKTGS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xDFoDbRMBEXX5
This way I can leave my spotlight motion detector powered so it works when it's supposed to, but I can turn the porch light on and off as I want to and don't have to leave it on all the time.
We just used the Philips Hue Dimmer Switch. It only works with Hue, to my knowledge. It just attaches to the wall, it's battery powered and wireless. Blanked off the existing switch for the ceiling light.
Otherwise I'd recommend the Lutron Caseta, they require another proprietary hub but don't require neutral wires.
And yeah it's been quite a busy year so far. Hopefully it slows down for the holidays (yeah right... we're hosting apparently)
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Edit: if you want to "smart" things up, get a Smartthings hub and motion sensor or door sensor. You can set your Hue lights to turn on automatically when the sensor detects you!
Philips Hue sells switches that are wireless. Can screw them onto the wall or use the included adhesive. I currently use one for a setup in my kitchen. Requires a Hue hub and a hue light, but might be a good solution.Amazon link
Yes, the hue switch is a physical remote for the bulbs
https://www.amazon.com/Philips-Dimmer-Switch-Installation-Free-Exclusively/dp/B076MGKTGS
Edit: In terms of a switch to control it, either bulb can be turned off by the existing wall switch or lamp switch. Either can be turned on by the same switch, but at least with Hue's current firmware, it will revert to full brightness white, I don't know about LIFX. However if you do turn it off with one of those switches, there is no way to turn it back on with the app/voice assistant/etc. So when I talked about the switches above, I'm talking about smart switches.
I don't think I was clear either that I think Hue might be the way to go. Of course you will get some bias towards Hue in /r/hue, but if you are concerned about reliability, automation, and control capabilities, I think Hue has more to offer.
You can install Hue switches. They’ll do exactly what you’re looking for.
https://www.amazon.com/Philips-Dimmer-Switch-Installation-Free-Exclusively/dp/B076MGKTGS
https://www.amazon.com/Philips-Dimmer-Switch-Installation-Free-Exclusively/dp/B076MGKTGS
You may have just provided the solution to my long-standing dilemma with moving to smart dimmer switches (i.e.).
I would wire them to be always on. Remove the current switch and stick a philips hue dimmer switch where you want a switch. All other switches will probably have a delay speaking with the HUB.
https://www.amazon.com/Philips-473371-Dimmer-Installation-Free-Exclusive/dp/B076MGKTGS/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1525883160&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=philips+hue+switch&psc=1
Can't you get the removable dimmer switch and just use it as a remote? I do that and it's pretty useful.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076MGKTGS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B076MGKTGS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520078873&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=hue+switch&psc=1
All buttons can do different things. You can also use a short press and a long press for different actions
What do you want it to do that this can't?
If you want smart lights and need a physical switch to use I would suggest two options.
The first option is to upgrade your wall switches. I have used these before and have had no issues Lutron Caseta Wireless Smart Lighting Dimmer Switch for Wall & Ceiling Lights, PD-6WCL-WH, White, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, and the Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_x-WWBbPYJ4QP5
If you want to go the Hue light route you can buy wireless switches and use the included 3m mounting to hang it on your wall Philips Hue Smart Dimmer Switch with Remote (Installation-Free, Smart Home, Exclusively for Philips Hue Smart Bulbs), 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076MGKTGS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IeXWBb02JK78V
Hey /u/adrojono,
Thought I could help and also offer some clarification on the patent question you had.
As /u/fastlerner mentioned, Philips Hue bulbs aren't meant to be put on a smart switch, but rather controlled from their app (or if you have their bridge paired to your HUB, you can control from your HUB -- either way, it's meant to be controlled remotely vs physically).
There are some other options for you. Philips Hue was actually one of my first smart home purchases and I love their bulbs. I use a couple of things to manually control them:
The remote works fantastic and I still have them up around the house to control the dim levels of the bulbs. It pairs directly to the Hue bridge and you can dim up/down and also set favorite scenes (I believe... I just use it for dim up/down).
The Inovelli switches (I have the old version bc the new one is still in testing, but it will have the same features) allow you to disable the internal relay and also send a Z-Wave Scene Command to your HUB (Please note: You have to have a HUB that supports Z-Wave for this as the Hue Bridge is ZigBee -- I'm assuming since you mentioned you have a GE 14294 switch that you do have a Z-Wave enabled HUB).
How this works is that you would install the Inovelli switch, disable the internal relay (so when you tap the switch off, it does not physically cut power to the light bulb), and then set up your scenes to control the Hue bulb.
To give you an example -- my daughters love their color lights and likes to go to bed with different colors each night, so the setup is as follows:
Now the limitation here is that you cannot dim up/down in real time, nor get to a precise level. This is because Hue speaks ZigBee and Inovelli speaks Z-Wave and it has to be interpreted at the HUB level and there is no commands that translate to dimming up/down in realtime between Z-Wave and ZigBee.
Hopefully that makes sense?
Ok, now onto the patent issue. I can't speak in detail about it for legal reasons, but I can say the patent was around how our switch works in a 3-Way setting.
As you may know, one of the features of the switch is that it can be used in multiple 3-Way settings:
The first bullet point was actually patented by Zooz and they were kind enough to share this with us right as we were going to production, so we had to make a modification, which caused a delay.
The good news is that we were able to find a different way of making it work, so we wouldn't violate the patent.
So, to directly answer your question of cutting out features and quality:
The answer is no, we did not have to cut out any features and no, we did not sacrifice quality to do so. I wish I could tell you exactly how we did it, but we are actually in the patent process ourselves around our approach to solving the 3-Way with a dumb switch issue, so I can't disclose right now :/
As for switch recommendations:
Hope this helped a bit and I'm happy to answer any other questions!
Eric
Founder | Inovelli
Most people who go all in on Hue cover the light switches with something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078MDDFM7/ref=dp_cerb_2 and add some of these for switches https://www.amazon.com/Philips-Hue-Dimmer-Installation-Free-Exclusively/dp/B076MGKTGS/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1538531531&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=hue+dimmer+switch&psc=1 or https://www.amazon.com/Philips-without-Batteries-Installation-Free-Exclusively/dp/B079P5H2WG/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1538531555&sr=1-1&keywords=hue+tap
I currently split my time between two residences and one has hue the other Lutron and I find the hue just has all sorts of nice bells and whistles like sleep cycle alarm integration along with having solid lights that have consistent dimming and color options. The Lutron works and adds some smart functionality to your lights but in my experience getting it up to what Hue gives you takes a lot more work.
You can buy Philips hue and get a switch. That should probably do the what you are asking for.
I have the exact same desire as you, and it is frustrating that these are so hard to find. I do have a couple of experiments set up around my house's
The first is the easiest. I have a few Hue dimmer switches (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076MGKTGS) in strategic locations around the house, but they are typically next to existing switches that I've taped over-the-counter and overall it's an unsatisfying solution.
My second experiment is a zwave scene controller (Gocontrol Z-Wave 3-Way Wall Accessory Switch -https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EAY3K5Y), and it's probably my favorite solution so far, but they're difficult to come by. I don't think they're actually manufactured anymore. I have it installed talking to my automation system which turns around and talks to hue lights, and it works pretty well. I could achieve the same thing by using any zwave (or zigbee, I guess) in-wall switch and just not hook up the load write, but it seems wrong to me, and I philosophically don't want to pay for the switching or dimming hardware. My ideal price point for these would be $30-35 instead of $50.
My third experiment is something that just got released at CES (Click for Philips Hue (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MMWH2YB). It's actually also pretty elegant and doesn't actually need to be wired in, but I find it's slightly less reliable than I'd like, and I sometimes have to push the buttons decently hard or multiple times to ensure functionality.
My ideal solution would be a combination of second and third, basically a wired zigbee in-wall scene controller, and aside from the RGB one posted earlier in this thread (it's $80!!), I haven't really seen one that fits the bill, much less is reasonably priced.
Here is the route I'd go down. It's gonna be a bit complex though, but almost all home automation stuff is complex at this point.
Glossed over a metric shit-ton of detail, but like I said.... this whole "home automation" space is still pretty chaotic and complex. If you are in the apple ecosystem and have an appletv, you can also do a similar thing with HomeKit, HomeBridge and MQTT.
Your other alternative is to simply buy a damn dimmer switch from Phillips Hue that works with their light bulbs and call it a day. They are a very high quality dimmer, honestly.
I have a few of the 4 button Hue dimmers, which I love... there was a hack to use them with Smartthings, which is OK except I want to get away from any reliance on the cloud at all.
So, since you already have a Hue bridge, these buttons can be had for @ $25. Pair them with your Hue bridge, but don't assign them to any rooms/groups/lights.
On your Pi, install node-red, and install the nodes for Homeassistant (node-red-contrib-home-assistant) and Hue(node-red-contrib-huemagic) from the palette. You can then make a flow that will allow you to do pretty much anything you want with the Hue dimmer buttons. I currently have one attached to a lamp with a Cree ZHA bulb that does on/off, dim up and down in 10% increments, long-press dim up sets to 100% brightness, long press dim down sets to 5%. I have another that controls a hacked Wifi smart plug I picked up at Walmart (Homie firmware) that works with MQTT.
Yes they do. It's not like a traditional light switch, but you can also buy one of these if need be.
I've had a similar problem with a poorly placed switch. I already had a bunch of Hue lights, so I got a Hue Smart Dimmer Switch (Amazon Link) and stuck it to the wall where I wanted the switch and covered the old switch with a tamper-proof cover (Amazon Link).
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No electrical work required.
One more thing--can I add a wall mounted wireless dimmer switch to control the light strip after wiring it to the FLS-PP?
Like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Philips-473371-Dimmer-Installation-Free-Exclusive/dp/B076MGKTGS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1518044853&sr=8-3&keywords=hue+wireless+dimmer+switch
I was surprised at first by the lack of HomeKit support, considering that most of not all of their other products are compatible. But like others have said, battery life is probably the main concern. Phillips Hue has a battery powered wall dimmer switch that can control other HomeKit devices and scenes, but they’re only able to accomplish this through the Hue bridge. Also, they are similar, but not quite not decora sized unfortunately.
I believe my wiring is the same. I'm on a Wink hub, and these are what I use:
The dimmer is great because it fits in the wall, but you can't run low-voltage LED lights on it because they use so little electricity that the light will always be faintly on. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KLAXFQA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I also have an over the top switch. It doesn't look as good, but it works. Also, it makes an electric motor noise as it switches. I personally like the noise because as I tell Alexa "goodbye" I can hear the switch to know for sure that my lights are off as I leave my condo. It does work with the switch and a rocker.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079M178GW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks. I found this one but it appears you still need a hub of some sort...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KLAXFQA/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
Here you go.
I'm using ones purchased from Amazon (http://amzn.com/B00JJY0S4G) or Home Depot (http://goo.gl/eZKEkK). You can control the dimmer from the remote and from the (Wink) hub. Neat setup. Looks like you can get the dimmer module without the remote from Amazon (http://amzn.com/B00KLAXFQA).
They do NOT need to be the same switch, just the opposite: most (all?) manufacturers make an "add on switch" for just such a purpose. The wiring gets kind of funky, not normal 3-way switch wiring.
Here is a walkthrough I found very helpful.
GE actually makes add-on switches for their Z-Wave smart switches, making them 3-way compatible. https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Switch-Z-Wave/dp/B00RKJS8MQ?th=1
I've even seen them in the big box stores.
White is the neutral. Three wires would be black (hot), white(neutral) and the bare copper (ground).
When you would see more wires is for a 3-way light switch or a ceiling fan with a light where you may see a red wire.
Last week I installed a 3-way switch using the GE switches(Dimmer and Add-on). It was quite a hassle for a non-electrician because there are so many possible wiring configurations. I had to bust out my multi-meter and do some trial and error for over an hour to determine the hot, neutral, line, load and two travelers.
In my case the hot and neutral were in two different switch boxes but luckily I had another switch in that same box that had a neutral (they all go back to the same place, neutral bus bar)
for master
for 2 slaves
these can do 4 way
This is going to format like shit because I'm copying it straight from an email I wrote my sister.
The important bits: the hub is Samsung Smartthings, switches are mostly GE zwave switches, voice control provided by Amazon Echo.
Rolling it out across the whole house isn't easy or cheap, but it's worth it when you have someone over and you give the "turn on everything" command and you watch every light pop on, then do it in reverse.
This will get you started :)
>
> Switches: http://www.amazon.com/GE12722-Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0035YRCR2
>
> Add-on Switches (for 3+ way): http://www.amazon.com/GE-12723-Add-On-Switch/dp/B00RKJS8MQ
>
> Dimmer: http://www.amazon.com/GE-Z-Wave-Dimmer-In-Wall-12724/dp/B006LQFHN2
>
> Fan: http://www.amazon.com/GE-12730-Z-Wave-Smart-Control/dp/B00PYMGVVQ
>
> SmartThings: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Hub-2nd-Generation/dp/B010NZV0GE
>
> Door Locks: http://www.amazon.com/Schlage-Connect-Camelot-Touchscreen-Deadbolt/dp/B00AGK9KOG/ref=lp_511306_1_2?s=hardware&ie=UTF8&qid=1461284077&sr=1-2
>
> Thermostat: http://www.amazon.com/Nest-Learning-Thermostat-Generation-Works/dp/B0131RG6VK/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1461284145&sr=1-2&keywords=thermostat+smart
>
> Echo (for voice control): http://www.amazon.com/Amazon-SK705DI-Echo/dp/B00X4WHP5E/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1461284177&sr=1-1&keywords=echo
>
There are other things like motion sensors and garage door controllers that start opening up some really cool "routines."
Not familiar with 'bipolar' as applied to light switches (transistors and moods, yes). If you're talking about three way switches, then you have to wire the WeMo as a single pole switch: hot, common, neutral. You will call the traveler wire but not connect it to the new switch.
Alternatively, you can go Z-Wave and get a master switch and then an add-on switch and maintain your current functionality. Downside (if you want to call it that) is that you need a Z-wave hub and can't connect directly through wifi.
Yes, makes sense to do them all at once if you want to educate all of them. Note that putting multiple smart switches in a single junction box can be a PIA. The old boxes barely have enough space for the big smart switches. But it can be done, I have a 7-gang panel that is all smart switches.
As /u/simiwood notes below, 3-way switches take some additional consideration. Traditionally you had to get add-on switches that communicate with the main smart switch to allow 3-way. This adds cost as you have to get a second smart switch. Some new manufacturers have designed their switches to function with the current 'dumb' switch and maintain 3-way functionality. TheZooz switches have this feature. It's cheaper, and I thought it an elegant solution, but now that's I've tried it I have a slight issue with it. All smart switches function like a typical 2-way light switch, that is up = on, down = off. Traditional 3-way and 4-way switches flip-flop depending on which switch is used. So when you use something like the Zooz solution you now have one switch on the circuit that is always up= on, down=off and you have one that flip flops. It's a small annoyance, but it annoys me. YMMV.
This might work: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-STANDALONE-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537995311&sr=8-3&keywords=ge+add-on
That's the add-on switch that works with the GE z-wave paddle switches. I don't have personal experience with these, but they are used for 2-way+ switch configurations. The packaging and information seems to read that the remote "add-on" switch mirrors itself to the "paired" switch. I would assume this is a pairing over z-wave, but not entirely sure. These are powered by the mains in the box. Might be worth checking out.
ahh, i see you what you mean. something like this add-on switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WNzqyb1WFHGY0?th=1
Since those bulbs are dimmable, I would use this https://www.amazon.com/GE-Dimmer-Z-Wave-12724-Amazon/dp/B006LQFHN2 and this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1483000019&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ge+z-wave+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=417LiEZcirL&ref=plSrch
Thanks again for the help. I was hoping to setup exactly as it was, but I was thrown by the new switch ( https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-Lighting-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ) which only has connections for a neutral and traveler wire (https://byjasco.com/sites/default/files/product/manuals/12723%20EnFrSp%20QStart%20V2%20102714.pdf)
GE makes good z wave plus smart switches capable of 3 way switching. You would buy one of these
GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Switch, On/Off, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 14291 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_K4LZzbMEWM70Q
And one of more of these
GE Add-On Switch for GE Z-Wave, GE ZigBee and GE Bluetooth Wireless Smart Lighting Controls, NOT A STANDALONE SWITCH, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, 12723 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_y5LZzb3VB99ZF
Something like this? https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-Lighting-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479500062&sr=8-1&keywords=wave+compatible+add+on+switch
So just confirming, smartthings would find this as it's own switch that I can setup without needing a traveler?
Also, am I correct in assuming that this add-on switch would not work?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480478370&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=ge+zwave+add+on+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=41uBlu46cUL&ref=plSrch
The key point is that if you use a GE smart switch in a 3-way setup, you must use a GE Z-Wave companion switch for the other end.
I'm in the same boat and just replaced the box with a new, better quality one and installed a regular z-wave switch. It's been working fine.
There are outdoor switches, but they are kinda big. I use one for my pool vacuum.
You could wire up your own with something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Appliance-Required-Works-SmartThings-14285/dp/B00YTCZZF0/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_60_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=235289RK3A9A8V126PZ2
Pricey though...
This is a 40 - https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Appliance-12726/dp/B00YTCZZF0/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522897057&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=20+amp+zwave+switch
This is what I use to control my garage heater https://www.amazon.com/GE-Appliance-Required-Works-SmartThings-14285/dp/B00YTCZZF0
Ignoring the wall plug for a moment, what does the plug on the actual ac look like?
Edit: I'm dumb you posted a picture...
I don't have any good suggestions for a 20 amp appliance but I'll see what I can dig up.
Edit 2: I'm really only finding one other option and it seems even more expensive. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTCZZF0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_lhhZBb20AGE7N
It might be worth checking the model of the actual unit. We have two of the same model, one wired for 220v 40 amp and one for 110v 15 amp. Depending it might be as easy as swapping the power cord on the ac which would probably be the cheapest option.
This is really what you are looking for. It has energy monitoring, so you could use that to determine if it is drawing a load, you might even be able to work up some automation to tell you if it has a load during certain hours or if your phone is outside of the house.
I think something like this would work:
GE Z-Wave Plus Direct Wire 40 Amp Smart Switch, Indoor/Outdoor, 120-277V Lighting Appliance Control, Repeater/Range Extender, Zwave Hub Required-Works with SmartThings, Wink, and Alexa, 14285, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTCZZF0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Y.E9BbGX2TS07
It's just on/off, no temp control. But I don't see why you would want to change the temp remotely, as most water heaters are set it and forget it . But at least with this outlet hub you can definitely turn on and off to save some energy.
That's not going to be rated for the weather and probably not for the power requirements for your application
You'll want something like this, if your transformer draws 40 amps or less https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTCZZF0/
depending on your hub - I have smartthings
you should have several choices
you'll need to figure the max current draw of the fan or the HP
then install the appropriate switch
easiest would be the wall switch and some temp sensors, if it wil handle the load
I have the go control - originally for my old garage door (programmed as a momentary switch) - it will handle 20 amps and is cheap.
GE also has a 40 amp heavy zwave switch - for $150ish
with the smartthings hub you could program time on, time off , on for event, off for event , (event could be window opens , temp specified, etc) and then run time for specific period of time or if temp is satisfied with enough connected things you can control all kinds of things - fan included :)
good luck
direct load good for 20amps
GoControl Z-Wave Isolated Contact Fixture Module - FS20Z-1
https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Z-Wave-Isolated-Contact-Fixture/dp/B00ER6MH22/ref=pd_sim_60_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YX3EFBFRGMTV783BT193
GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Switch, On/Off, In-Wall
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=pd_sim_60_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BB38NVA9J8T5JFDE3QTJ
Incandescent - Minimum Load: 40W, Maximum Load: 960W
Motor – 1/2HP
Resistive – 1800W
GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting and Appliance Control, 40 Amp, Large Load, Direct-Wire, Indoor/Outdoor
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTCZZF0/ref=twister_B017SOTBJG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Hmm.. maybe it was discontinued... you could also try a Z-wave 40A plug from Amazon. They are usually configurable to 120-277V but cost more. Aeotec might make a cheaper one.
Here's one
I would worry about it costing more to heat it up as others have noted.
If you must - I know GE makes a 40 amp switch that would probably work
https://www.amazon.ca/GE-14285-Z-Wave-Switch-White/dp/B00YTCZZF0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=ge+40+amp+zwave&qid=1574113242&sr=8-1
This is what I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YTCZZF0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks. This is a switch rated for up to 40 amps so there shouldn't be any code violations using this with a 20 amp circuit. You can even connect 2 20 amp circuits into this.
http://z-wave-assets.s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/docs/124/B00YTCZZF0_GE_Jasco_40_Amp_Smart_Z-Wave_Switch_12726_Manual.pdf?1490359335
It sounds like you're more disappointed by the aesthetics of the device rather than the function? What would your ideal design be? Would it be modeled off of anything existing today? What kind of functions are you looking for? And what would make use more satisfying?
edi: How do the aesthetics of the Lutron remote compare? https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-LZL-4B-WH-L01-Connected-Bulb-Remote/dp/B014STZASK
I have the Wink hub and like it. I don't know how it compares to Smart Things. Some people, myself included, have had an issue where communication breaks down between HA and Wink, and HA stops displaying the current state of items, but I think that will be fixed in the next release.
The only reason I did that instead of a USB stick is that I started my home automation with Wink, and only tried Home Assistant when I saw how much more robust of a platform it was. That said, I do find it easier to add things to Wink than to HA, so that's a bonus. I also use these little remotes a few places: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-LZL-4B-WH-L01-Connected-Bulb-Remote/dp/B014STZASK/ And I don't know if they can be connected directly to HA yet.
Basically I use HA for most of my automations, but I use Wink for manual control of my items, whether I'm home or away.
However, it gets a little messy when I start adding things directly to HA because they're not Wink-compatible. Currently I have a Wifi plug that's not controllable by Wink and a Xioami hub with a couple of items hooked up to it, so I can no longer rely exclusively on the Wink hub for manual control.
Still, I like the hub, and I like the app, and since HA is doing all the automation from a Raspberry Pi, I never had to root it.
My guess is that you could do almost all of the same things using a HA installation with the right USB stick, but I still like Wink because I can get stuff added and working more quickly.
Yes, but you have to get the Lutron pico remote that works via Zigbee rather than Clear Connect.
Lutron LZL-4B-WH-L01 Connected Bulb Remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014STZASK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-Yr2AbER079XE
You can set it to turn on individual bulbs, or turn on entire scenes.
You'll want to get the Connected Bulb Remote to run the setup I described. I don't think the other models work the same. If mounting in a wall plate, you'll also need the bracket.
You can also use these Lutron remotes as wall switches...works with hue and each of the 4 buttons can trigger a scene.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014STZASK/ref=psdc_507840_t3_B01AANIVXE
Check out the Lutron Connected Bulb Remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014STZASK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8nohAbEZ20WS2. It’s basically a Zigbee remote for Hue and other zigbee bulbs.
I’ve replaced most of my bulbs with Hue and light switches with these. You can get the lutron pico Wall plate and put these remotes in your old switches. I removed my traditional switches and connected the wires together so the fixtures are always on. Been working great so far.
The trick with Abode is to pair the remote to the Abode hub, then pair the bulbs to the Abode hub, then pair the remote to the bulbs.
This will work fitted into this
And works with standalone zigbee bulbs, a hue hub, or smartthings.
you can also get the Lutron connected bulb remote for physical control, can get a little expensive if you outfit every lamp with hue bulbs and a remote though.
What you need is a Luton smart bulb remote, they have some making them but you might get lucky and find them. These pair with the Philips Hue bulbs and work great
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-LZL-4B-WH-L01-Connected-Bulb-Remote/dp/B014STZASK
Or https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-LZL-4B-WH-L01-Connected-Bulb-Remote/dp/B014STZASK
https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/RZZ46D0UK6VC3/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B014STZASK
is this part of the Hue ecosystem / friend of hue / bridge?
Would it pair with the hue dimming switch or the lutron remote?
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-LZL-4B-WH-L01-Connected-Bulb-Remote/dp/B014STZASK
ty.
not zwave but https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-LZL-4B-WH-L01-Connected-Bulb-Remote/dp/B014STZASK
get that and the mounting kit
In my setup (Inspire LED) I use to pull power from a standard outlet (behind Fridge or microwave). This was run to an RF Receiver that let me control the lights via wireless RF Controls, like this one. This setup worked.. okay.. the receiver and transmitter I used weren't the best.
I have since re-configured to use a Smart Outlet, connected to my Wink and controlled with Alexa. I have also setup a Lutron Bulb Remote that has shortcuts that allow me to operate the lights. This is mounted, next to a single gang box, and covered with a double gang plate, you cannot tell the difference.. no drywall is cut or removed. Lutron makes a wall-mount kit for their remotes.
Not a single wire is run in these setups. You can mount the remote anywhere you please. You could even add a simple in-line toggle switch to turn them on / off... and mount under the cabinets.. no dimming tho.. endless options.
Is there a reason why you're going the bulb route instead of the smart switches? Depending on how many bulbs you get, the cost can get up there pretty quickly. I use Lutron Caseta switches and they integrate well to smartthings and then into google home. I also have 4 downlights with hue bulbs in them for one room. What I did was just wired the power wires behind the switch to always have power to the fixture. At the time, Lutron sold a remote that looked the the other smart switches I installed that could control hue light bulbs. I just put it over the wires with a bracket that Lutron made as well.
I use this one for two of the lights in my house:
Lutron LZL-4B-WH-L01 Connected Bulb Remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014STZASK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Fepyzb0C7TV95
Get this accessory and it fits in your standard light switch.
Lutron PICO-WBX-ADAPT Pico Wallplate Bracket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JZRAFEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CfpyzbTEYY4F5
Almost! The lutron stuff is a bit confusing. They have their pico/caseta line (which you don't want), and their connected bulb line.
You want this, this, and this. Of course, you'll also need Zigbee bulbs (Osram Lightify, GE Link, etc) and a compatible hub, such as Wink. If you'd like, you can get a second remote and keep it beside your bed.
Hope this helps!
this? and it works out of the box with hue?
I'm not sure if this is what you're looking for, but the other day I asked a similar question.
I wanted my Hues to be powered all the time so I could always use the Hue app alone to turn them on, or have them return to the previous scene, or all the other benefits that come with leaving the Hues powered.
However, I wanted to replace the Decora switches/dimmers with something that could be used to control the Hues but without cutting power. So my solution is what /u/rittyroo suggested, I purchased a Lutron Connected Bulb Remote with the wallplate bracket and hooked it up to the Hues. It's not designed for them, but there is a Youtube video showing how to set it up and it worked for me no problem.
I still have to actually hardwire the lights to always-on, though I haven't yet because they're three-way switches which are outside of my expertise - I'll be getting an electrician or someone smarter than me to do it. But the system works exactly like I had hoped.
I know this isn't exactly the response you were looking for but there are decora style hue switches. Technically they are remotes but you can hardwire your lights to always be on and install the remotes as decora switches. My current system consists of 27 hue bulbs controlled by 12 of these remotes/switches and it works great. Links and documentation below.
Remotes
Wallplate Brackets
Documentation:
As mentioned by Doombot5 I’d opt by taking the switch out. I’ve bought 2 Phillips Hue dimmer switches and just don’t use them any more. Mostly because I bought Lutrons wireless pico remotes. I pulled the old rocker switch out, connected the wires together (Always on) and paired the remote to the bulbs I wanted the remote to control. It has dimmer capabilities but not scene selective. Lutron sells mounting brackets and face plates for the wireless remotes so if you choose they can cover the removed switch and replace it. It looks quite good and you’d never know that the switch is wireless. For me it was the best option that eliminates the switch cutting power and allowing people who prefer switches to still have the option.
I don’t regret at all switching to this method, I only regret not doing it sooner!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014STZASK/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1505659804&sr=8-10&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=pico+remote
Not sure what you mean. If you need an on/off switch without dimming there are a couple in the Caseta range, here is one of them: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017LRCG38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_4stHxbK40YK33
There is also a lower power rated one that doesn't require a neutral. Both work with the hub or can be paired with a Pico as expected.
Most gas fireplaces today us a millivolt gas value. If your fireplace happens to have a fan switch or 120v available near the fireplace switch you maybe in luck. I used the 120v from the fan of my fireplace in parallel to power a relay and added a Lutron Caseta switch in series to turn the 120v on/off to the relay which in turn opens or closes the contacts for the low voltage solenoid. The added benefit of using a smart switch is being able to add it to my voice assistant Alexa or Home Assistant.
120v White wire -> relay <--> smart switch <- 120v Black wire
..................................coil.................................................................
......millivolt line<-> N.O. <-> millivolt line.......
Some more info on fireplace wiring.
There are fireplace remotes available depending on your fireplace's solenoid.
I haven’t tried them, but there are supposed to be ceiling fan switches that can be controlled through GH or Alexa. For example, Lutron appears they have one that does:
Lutron also has an IFTTT service. So, this switch might work with the IFTTT service.
no. I'm referring to switches, not dimmers. I've used two different Lutron ones:
One has two black wires, the other has a red for the load.
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I have this switch: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B017LRCG38/
So far I couldn't get it to work with Wink...
Caseta non-dimmer switch?
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-PD-6ANS-WH-Assistant/dp/B017LRCG38/ref=mp_s_a_1_3/130-7064671-9462863?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540688367&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=caseta+switch&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41UwzP2BZPL&amp;ref=plSrch
I did this exactly in my backyard. I threw one of the more expensive Caseta dimmers INSIDE a weatherproof box outside and hard wired my patio lights into the junction box. It could have just as easily been the cheaper dimmer or the regular 6A switch and not the dimmer and it would have worked just as well. I spent a little more on the more expensive dimmer because the load was so low with the patio lights (20w total) that I didn't want any flickering or weirdness. I hardwired only because I didn't NEED a dimmable outlet, but you could also just as easily put a receptacle after the dimmer/switch.
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I say all that just to let you know what you are asking for is entirely doable, like cduff77 mentioned, just get the plug-in dimmer, tie off the wall switch so it's always on and replace it with a wall mounted pico pemote. The whole thing will run you about $75 but it is well worth it.
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Lutron hit it out of the PARK with Caseta, it's the most reliable smart device I have, and I have a ton (Ring Doorbell, August Lock, Philip's Hue, EcoBee Thermostat). All they need is to come out with a multi-speed fan controller and a couple of smart outlets (Controllable with Picos, just like you want) and they will own the game.
Has anyone used one of these for a ceiling fan combo? https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Caseta-Wireless-Switch-Multi-Location/dp/B017LRCG38/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497447376&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=Pd-6wcl
Be sure to check the compatibility list on the Lutron website. Not all LEDs work with the dimmer and will result in flashing when the lights are off (learned that the hard way). Lutron also makes an on/off switch that seems to work with all LEDs. Lutron Caseta Wireless Switch, Multi-Location, In-Wall, 6 Amp, Works with Amazon Ale... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017LRCG38/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_cArszbEFVB0SC . I've installed three of these in three-way configurations and did have a bit of a problem with one of the locations that had a chandelier with a mix of different type bulbs. I called and they sent me a remote to install in the wall. I haven't installed it yet, but the lights do work when controlled by the phone,Alexa, and the Lutron switch, just not at the mechanical switch location that I have to replace.
The Lutron Caseta dimming switches (that do not require a neutral wire) are for dimmable lighting only. Lutron does make non-dimming Caseta switches (that do require a neutral wire) for non-dimmable lighting and fans, such as the model PD-6ANS-WH, but it also has a light bulb on it.
Sure, here's an Amazon link.
Yeah. The wall touchscreen is a little "too much" for me.
Is this the type of switch you are referring to? How would I "pair it" with various Hue bulbs? Thanks
Lutron Caseta Wireless Switch, Multi-Location, In-Wall, 6 Amp, Works with Amazon Alexa, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017LRCG38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_eSUxzbQ6M8GXC
> The non-dimmer unit seems to be like $80'ish
$54.95 for the Caseta switch on Amazon
If you don't mind adding another hub you should check out Lutron Caseta. They are a bit more expensive than GE and Insteon but they're reliable and work well with HomeKit and Alexa. You can make scenes in the Caseta app and both the Home app and the Alexa app will be able to use the scenes that you created.
As for a fan switch the only option that works with HomeKit and Alexa is the Caseta Multi-Location Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017LRCG38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_JZVyybFAGHSZQ
This wont be able to change the fan speed but it lets you turn the fan on and off.
As for setting scenes with the touch of a button, you could get a Harmony hub and some pop switches. The Harmony doesn't play well with HomeKit but it's pretty cool with Alexa. Although the app is kind of counter intuitive, it works well once you get it the way you want it.
Harmony Hub:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N3RFC4Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_I7VyybF2F7VWZ
Pop Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JO8TLMQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_g6VyybPZPFZ51
Amazon has the Lutron Caseta on/off switches. For some reason they actually cost more than the dimmers.
ttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B017LRCG38/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_xs_6HwkybV1BNKFQ
Lutron Caseta PD-6WCL-WH Smart Lighting Dimmer Switch or PD-6ANS-WH Smart Lighting Switch are "single-pole" switches, but they will require L-BDG-WH Caseta Wireless Smart Bridge to function properly.
You've probably already found this but Lutron does offer a switch that can handle the power requirements of a fan, but unlike their dimmers it does require neutral wiring. Every switch I've seen that claimed to be appropriate for fans requires it. Might be something an electrician could add for you?
Lutron doesn't have a single switch that can control both lights and fans separately. You'd need two separate switches, the one linked above for the fan and a separate dimmer for the lights.
I don't use z wave so I'm not up to date on the options there.
I think you might be looking for this:
SYLVANIA LIGHTIFY by Osram - Smart Home- Dimming Switch for all LIGHTIFY Products Control your Smart Home System at the Touch of a Button, Works with Alexa (hub required) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196M620Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8OfCybXA5VXDY
I use one with my SmartThings Hub and it works great.
Do you like the look of the Lutron pico remote on a wall bracket?
Contradicting what I said in my last comment, Lutron is also a good option, but they use a proprietary communication protocol that requires a Lutron hub.
There are several other options that would work with an ST hub, if a design catches your eye:
All of those will work with a Smartthings hub, since it has both zigbee and z-wave.
Someone else said the same thing lol. There's also these https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-LIGHTIFY-Wireless-SmartThings-Assistant/dp/B0196M620Y
Same concept but looks better.
OSRAM LIGHTIFY Dimming Switch looks good. Not available on the EU frequency from what I can see though :(
I use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196M620Y/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_o8EqDbTC1P2HK
in Smartthings.
It fits over a light switch so you can no longer use it and can be set up to connect to Hue through Smartthings.
There's also the new Lutron Aurora. http://www.lutron.com/en-US/Products/Pages/StandAloneControls/Dimmers-Switches/SmartBulbDimmer/overview.aspx It connects directly to the Hue hub and is nicer looking, but pricier.
Alternatively, you can get Switches for insteon or caseta. Both require their own hub but they have no neutral required switches. It won't work directly with Hue, but it will act as a kill switch for power to the Hue lights so it just may require multiple commands like "turn on caseta kitchen lights, set hue kitchen lights to blue".
Here you go:
SYLVANIA LIGHTIFY ZigBee 2 Button Wireless Dimmer Switch, Works with SmartThings, Hub Needed for Amazon Alexa or the Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196M620Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yOG5Ab9B22XYP
My house had similar wiring in several rooms, so I removed the wall switches and simply tied the wires together so the outlets would remain on. Then I bought some of these and mated them to a SmartThings hub to do something similar to what you describe:
In the SmartThings App, you can set up Routines "[Room Name] Lights On" and "[Room Name] Lights Off", and you can set them to "Automatically perform '[Room Name] Lights On' when... Something turns on or off." Then you pick the switch you wanted to perform the routine.
Beware, there's a caveat:
Communication from the switch, through the Zigbee network, to the hub, to the Internet, to the SmartThings service, and all the way back to the outlets is slow -- like, it takes 5 whole seconds to turn the lights on -- which, even after a year, is still enough time to make me think, Oh, I probably didn't actually click the switch. It's not something I would recommend to the average person who just likes things to work, but, if you're looking for a very specific solution with the lights and wiring you have, it is actually faster than using voice control. Good luck.
I'm using Sylvania Smart Home 73743 Lightify Smart Dimming Switch, Dimmer, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196M620Y/ cause I wanted to use it over the existing switch.
Yes it's funky looking, but the one I got does mount directly over your existing switch.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196M620Y
Lightify switches mount over a dumb switch. You just pop it off and toggle the switch.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0196M620Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1512069064&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=lightify+switch&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31RTusR3UNL&amp;ref=plSrch
Hey there, I was looking this stuff up recently and came across this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0196M620Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I like this a lot (though it's a little large). We use it to control the Hue bulbs in our nightstand lamps individually instead of the physical switch. Works like a charm.
I use these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0196M620Y/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I'm currently working with two Blackbean RM3 Mini's and have successfully hooked them up to my Echo with a custom Alexa skill and a NodeJS server running locally. I'm going to release my code for this on GitHub soon, but in the meantime I'm leveraging python-broadlink and BlackBeanControl to get the job done.
For the price of the devices it was worth the hours to get it integrated.
2 main options-
Another harmony hub and a smartthings hub. You can then import the harmony activities using the smartthings hub. I recommend this if you have more on the second tv than just the tv.
Option 2- Broadlink RM Mini3. Much cheaper if you are just turning a second tv on and off. They also have an Alexa skill
If you get an Echo Dot you can get any speakers that use either Bluetooth or a 3.5mm cable. So the field is wide open on that one.
For the lights you would need something like this on Amazon
I use this thing to do that.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FK2SDOC?aaxitk=DXYaNxrtGmCVdvWwqzcjqQ&pd_rd_i=B01FK2SDOC&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3ff6092e-8451-438b-8278-7e94064b4d42&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pf_rd_i=ir+controller&hsa_cr_id=5850900170001&sb-ci-n=productDescription&sb-ci-v=BroadLink%20IR%20Control%20Hub%20Works%20with%20Amazon%20Alexa%2C%20RM%20Mini3%20Smart%20Home%20Wi-Fi%20Enabled%20Infrared%20Universal%20Remote%20Control%2C%20One%20for%20All%20Control%20(%20Black%20Bean%20RMMINI3-EN%20)
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The app isn't great but once you get it dialed in its good. You program each remote function and then create a scene where it hits the xbox button, up then ok. I even have the google assistant say "starting xbox self destruct sequence" when I start it.
So those strips just need 12V DC to work. If you feed them 6V DC they will be half brightness. The way that those power supplies work is that they can vary the voltage for each of the 3 channels. Say you want yellow. You feed 12v to the blue and green channels and leave the red channel off.
If you just want a set color you could get a 12v power supply and wire the channels you wanted to it. Changing colors or colors below 12v becomes more of an issue though. Your options then looks like either buying one of these and a 12v supply (Only works with alexa so dunno if it fits your use case) or going with a phone controllable ir blaster like this or this (I think the first only works with alexa and the later works with google and alexa.)
Not sure on your electronics skill level but hopefully this can help.
How about a WiFi IR hub? Any device you buy can still function as a remote, and you don't have to limit your purchase to an IR capable phone. You should be able to find one for under $30.
Example, but not necessarily an endorsement of the product: https://www.amazon.com/Broadlink-RM-Mini3-Universal-Controller-Compatible/dp/B01FK2SDOC
I'd double check that it would work with those blinds, but most of these guys can be trained for just about any IR signalling, so it should work.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FK2SDOC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_2KfYDbCPNRW0Z
If pulling power to the Fire TV and/or TV, or sending some kind of ADB command you could try Tasker or Llama to set to wake the Fire TV on schedule.
Only other thing I can think of would be a Harmony Hub, which can set timers, or something like this
This would probably work for the IR side of things : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FK2SDOC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I use it for my robot vaccuum, and have used it for an A/C unit as well. As long as you have the old remote, they work well. I'm using it with OpenHab using the exec binding to call the "commands".
You could get an Alexa compatible IR blaster for around $25: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FK2SDOC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Then you can do things like have Alexa turn on your TV and change the volume/channels (which I know is the exact opposite of going outdoors)
I've been using this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K1JVZOE/ref=twister_B078N74N8V?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I like it because I don't need to be on the same network to control it.
When they're on sale and you can also get a bunch of smart bulbs and outlet switches in the same sale, absolutely. Got a bunch of these and some smart bulbs and it's awesome. Plus I can't tell you how many times I say, "hey google, find my phone" in a week.
I use this:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Occupies-HS105-Wall-Light-Electronic-Component-switches/dp/B01K1JVZOE/ref=pd_day0_hl_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01K1JVZOE&pd_rd_r=70c0e254-2bfd-11e9-a095-811ee4313434&pd_rd_w=gt1SW&pd_rd_wg=WCmCP&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=PWXJYVYD6DGP54VABKHN&psc=1&refRID=PWXJYVYD6DGP54VABKHN
You can use the Kasa app to set up a schedule. You can change the schedule or manually turn your lights (or whatever is plugged into it) on/off manually from anywhere. This is my second grow using these smart switches to control both fans and lights and they have worked flawlessly. You can also get a 2 pack on Amazon for ~$35.
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I have a Smartthings hub. That talks two home control protocols, called Zigbee and Z-Wave. Many manufacturers make dimmers that use one or the other protocol. There are wall switch-types, and in-line "puck" type fan controllers.
Google finds many...
I'm using TP-Link switched outlets to turn amplifiers on and off. They also have a smaller version, but I got the big ones for $20 each, so went with those. The outlets can be controlled directly by a GH or Amazon Echo, and don't depend on the Smartthings hub.
Search Amazon for wifi switches/fan controllers that say "works with Alexa" for products that don't require a smart home hub. A hub provides some additional flexibility and control methods, but there seems to be a move away from hub-dependent approaches. There are arguments for and against both types of devices. Hubs can offer programmable logic (eg. Turn pitch light on when I arrive home, if the sun has set. If nobody else is home, turn on all amps & play White Stripes really loud,) though using 3rd party tools like IFTTT or Tasker can usually accomplish the same things.
Thanks. A y idea what the difference is between this one:
TP-Link Smart Plug Mini (1-Pack) -- No Hub Required, Wi-Fi, Control your Devices from Anywhere, Occupies Only One Socket, Works with Alexa and Google Assistant (HS105) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01K1JVZOE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ArH8BbBSSHS63
And this one:
TP-Link Smart Plug (1-Pack) -- No Hub Required, Wi-Fi, Control your Devices from Anywhere, Works with Alexa and Google Assistant (HS100) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0178IC734/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4rH8BbM5AM3S2
No wifi extenders. The newest neighbors moved in 6 months ago. The newest 2.4 devices are two TP-link wifi plugs added 6 weeks ago.
My apartment has pretty terrible lighting and with fall/winter coming on strong in the Boston area, I decided to put together a little home gardening station to help with lighting and movement of the plants for watering. I went into this with the goal of having my setup accommodate most of my small collection of plants and to allow for easy movement without having to mess with the grow lights. In the end, I decided on a cart-based design composed of the following items:
Bror Utility Cart 33 ½” X 21 ⅝” X 34 ⅝” ($99)
https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/bror-utility-cart-black-pine-plywood-60333850/
Bror Add-on Shelf 21 ⅝” X 6 ¼” X 5 ½” ($10)
https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/bror-add-on-shelf-black-20402001/
Koppla 3 Outlet Power Strip 19 ¾” ($4.99 for two pack)
https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/koppla-3-outlet-power-strip-grounded-white-00086428/
2x Hemma Cord Set, Black 15’ 5” ($7.00 each)
https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/hemma-cord-set-white-10175810/
(IKEA site only has white showing up now, black was available in-store)
2x Luftmassa Lamp Shade 10” ($17.99 each)
https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/luftmassa-lamp-shade-rounded-70462648/
Kasa Smart WiFi Plug Mini HS105 ($21.75)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K1JVZOE/
Relassy 20 Watt Dual Head, Gooseneck, Full Spectrum Grow Lamp ($27.39)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C68N7PC/
2x GE 9 Watt BR30 Balanced Full Spectrum Bulbs ($9.98 each)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NN6SVG6/
4x 3M Command Utility Hooks 3 lbs ($8.99 for nine)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0751RPD3V/
2x Velcro Thin Ties 8” X ½” ($9.70 for 100)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1Y5O6/
Total Cost (pre-tax): $234.76
Bought a couple smart plugs. Only using one so far. It's in my bedroom with my reading lamp plugged into it. Now I don't have to get out of bed to shut off the light, just click a button on my phone. :]
Smart plugs/switches are very overpriced in Canada. That said, you will see regular sales on both TP-Link and Wemo.
Having tried both, TP-Link is far better and more refined than Wemo.
What I recommend is using Camelcamelcamel to setup an alert for the TP-Link smartplug mini, as they drop to $25 cad on the regular.
https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Required-Assistant-Anywhere-HS105/dp/B01K1JVZOE
These are nice. I control them with OpenHAB on the pi: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K1JVZOE
The one you linked might be a bit low on the amperage to run a heat lamp, and it sure as hell doesn't look UL listed. Maybe it's an optically isolated relay? I'd be concerned it would burn my house down if I tried to run a heat lamp through it. The one I linked is UL listed and supports up to 15A.
Just plug into the wall then plug your lamp into it, connect it to your Wi-Fi, then add it to your devices on your Alexa app so you can use it with your echo device. I like this one because it only takes up one plug space some cover-up both, I've had it for a couple of years. every once in awhile I have to resync it with the Wi-Fi but no other issues
TP-LINK HS105 Mini WiFi Smart Plug tplink 1-Pack White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K1JVZOE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hzPQCb2B6Z84X
Yes, all on/off at same time.
I like Binary Warrior's item in the link they provided. I wanted somewhat of a little box, but that kind of item (strip) will give me additional smart plugs for regular items.
But...a multi charger, plugged into a single smart plug is your suggestion, yes?
A setup like this?
charger:
https://www.amazon.com/RAVPower-Charger-Desktop-Charging-Technology/dp/B00OQ19QYA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526265382&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=usb+multi+charger&amp;dpID=41Oi-vRTv%252BL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
smart plug:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K1JVZOE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
Looks like the benefit of this setup is that I have more usb ports for more pixel pals.
I have three of these and they work great: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K1JVZOE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I received these last night but haven't had a chance to try them out yet: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B078M9MJ4W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This is the one that I use.
Assuming you would like to have a nice, neutral and clean spirit to build into whatever you like (ie, everclear style); here’s my advice.
If you try all this, pm me back and let me know how it went or if you had any problems.
Timer — https://www.amazon.com/Century-Indoor-24-Hour-Mechanical-Outlet/dp/B01LPSGBZS/ref=sr_1_16?crid=1CF5S5I0380KI&amp;keywords=timer+switch&amp;qid=1566317740&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=timer+electric%2Caps%2C-1&amp;sr=8-16
Ensure the connection between the paintball tank and regulator will fit.
Most regulators the US are cga320, paintball tanks are not. there are adaptors that are sold for fairly cheap
I use these mechanical timers and they work perfectly:
https://www.amazon.com/Century-Indoor-24-Hour-Mechanical-Outlet/dp/B01LPSGBZS
You could use this
Or use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LPSGBZS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8u3BCbTK04AWK
Tent: TopoGrow 2-in-1 Indoor Grow Tent 108"X48"X80"
Lights: Three of these: MARS HYDRO 960w, apparently they just came out with a 2nd version of these at 900w, so here's that link
Soil:Fox Farm FX14054 Happy Frog Potting Soil
Pots:Fabric Pots
Humidifier:3.5G humidifier
Fan: basic large oscilating fan
Exhaust:AC Infinity CLOUDLINE T6
CO2 Bag: Exhale 365
Fertilizers: Technaflora Recipe for Success Starter Kit
Timers: Basic ones
Basil Seeds: because basil is fucking delicious
let me know if you all see anything extra i need or anything you think i could improve on!
Thanks again for the help!
I just switched to 12/12 from 24/0, started the flowering formula for the nutrients, and switched on the "bloom" light on the lights.
Honestly just buying outlet plugs with timers is probably the better option than trying to figure out a way to program it with c# and a computer.
https://www.amazon.com/Century-Indoor-24-Hour-Mechanical-Outlet/dp/B01LPSGBZS
Use a timer switch for lamps. Power off and back on at 3 AM daily. We do that for a linksys router that has a similar issue
Century Indoor 24-Hour Mechanical Outlet Timer, 3 Prong, 2-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LPSGBZS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_rbIRCbMCK0CJ5. Cheap but effective!
Pretty much anything, they are kind of bulletproof. I use these, but I imagine they are all pretty much the same:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LPSGBZS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Also, what PhotoProxima said above, this will get you started
https://www.growweedeasy.com/basics
I had the same worry, so I got these which are pretty idiot-proof. You just
spin the center wheel to the current time,
push in the little black tabs around the wheel for the spaces of time you want the light to be on (in 30 min increments),
plug in your lamp and make sure the lamp is turned to the "on" setting and
make sure the switch on the side of the timer is clicked down to the little clock symbol.
It's been pretty reliable, though is always a few minutes off (about 3 for me) which I don't mind. I may get a fancier one later, but this one has done exactly what I need it too, plus I have a backup in case I decide to get crazy with any other lights in the house. Good luck!
Doesn't seem to be as bad as I thought charging it. It does get really warm on the sides like a laptop charger. However, I do remember charging it with a timer outlet and if I remember correctly, it was hotter when charging my board through that.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LPSGBZS?psc=1&amp;ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title
That's the timer outlet I'm using. Could this cause my battery to heat up more than normal when charging it through this?
It is a ridiculously cheap IKEA lamp. I'm not sure how well it'll hold up to the heavy LED grow bulb... but it's trying. The lamp is LERSTA.
The bulb is this thing. It's quite bright, but I suspect the Monstera and the Marble Queen pothos would like to be closer to it. I'm considering a stand to get them up higher.
And I'm using this physical timer to turn the grow light on and off. My office is basically a cave - near no natural light. So the plants get 12 hours with that grow light when the office is less busy. I'm not certain this is enough, with the distance the light is from the plants, but I'll keep an eye on them and find additional supplemental light as needed.
You'd need to supply a grow light. You can get a cheap timer and set it to only turn on after work hours so you don't get a headache from the light (though I set mine to turn on 5 minutes before I leave for the day so I know it's working, the cleaning staff have accidentally knocked it out of it's socket when vacuuming once or twice)
These are what I use
Timer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LPSGBZS/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Light: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N9OR7OZ/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Unfortunately I can’t run a wire from the unit because I’m in an apartment. Should I keep the jumper and remove the wire going from transformer to RC? (So the transformer would only power the C)
I know these are probably basic questions so I appreciate the help man.
Btw I’m using this type of transformer.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075PN6NCV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MXqzDbKY8SWCF
I got this:
24 Volt Transformer, C-Wire Power Adapter for Ecobee Nest Honeywell Emerson Sensi, Ring Doorbell Pro, Nest Hello, Skybell, Smart WiFi Thermostat and Doorbell Power, 25 ft Cable by Fyve Global https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075PN6NCV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HTKiDbK0DNCZ1
Here are the wires. The green one comes out at the heater and just hangs (not connected to anything). The wall heater in the bedroom does not have a green wire.
If I purchase an adapter, can I just use it as the C wire?
Maybe? 24 Volt C-Wire Power Adapter/Transformer for Ecobee Nest Honeywell Smart Wifi Thermostat By Fyve Global | 25 Foot Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075PN6NCV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nl20BbXE66AP7
sorry for bothering you again. i found this thermostat voltage adapter on amazon (https://www.amazon.com/Transformer-Honeywell-Thermostat-Fyve-Global/dp/B075PN6NCV). would this work for my system if i use it to power Nest (as there is no C wire). thank you
Here is an album I took of the control board. I have tried running my own C-wire from an outlet separate from the control board and that did not work for the Ecobee3 lite
this is what I used for that: https://www.amazon.com/Transformer-Honeywell-Thermostat-Fyve-Global/dp/B075PN6NCV
I’ve installed many Nests in two wire only heating systems. Unless you have multiple zones, you have a very low chance of needing a common wire installed.
However, if installing a new bundle of wires is something you don’t want to do or don’t have the money for, here is another solution:
24 Volt C-Wire Power Adapter/Transformer for Ecobee Nest Honeywell Emerson Smart WiFi Thermostat by Fyve Global | 25 ft Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075PN6NCV/
Thanks for all y'all's input! I've got an ecobee3 lite and I'm going to try the 'repurpose G wire as C wire' tactic this evening (we never use the fan independently of the furnace -- pretty sure my wife is unaware that's even an option).
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In the event that doesn't work, my plan is to supply 24V to the thermostat with one of these (which quite conveniently includes a wiring diagram in the product images).
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mad props to this blog post that linked the 24V power supply and goes into a little greater detail.
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quick disclaimer: I am not the author of that blog, nor am I qualified to be offering wiring advice.
Did a little research real quick so I could give you the correct spots to hook it up. here is a link to what you buy and you will hook one to your C port and one to your RC port. It does not matter which one. Also make sure you move that small red jumper cable that’s connecting your RH to your RC.
So basically you will have four wires. (Important to remove the tiny red wire!)
A red and black cable from your wall. Red will go RH and black will go to W.
2 wires from your new transformer. One will go to C and one will go to RC. (Doesn’t matter which one because they can interchange. Plug it into your outlet and you’re all set. Literally takes 5 minutes!
Not trying to persuade you one way or the other, but you might just want to take a look at what is involved using the adapter. It's very simple if you go that route. Here's a link to one on amazon. This is the one I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Transformer-Honeywell-Thermostat-Fyve/dp/B075PN6NCV?ref_=nav_ya_signin&amp;
To be honest though, I'd probably go with the programmable thermostat except I like the remote sensors with the ecobee and also being able to monitor the temperature when I'm not at home because I'm paranoid like that!
That one looks good. Here is one I found that is rated for the nest but only outputs 300mA.
https://www.amazon.com/Transformer-Honeywell-Thermostat-Fyve-Global/dp/B075PN6NCV
If it only requires 300mA, then either one will work.
I've seen a few of those and honestly was wondering if they'd work on any thermostat. I've found ones like this https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Transformer-Honeywell-Thermostat-Fyve/dp/B075PN6NCV/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1549852751&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=c+wire+adapter and wondered if I could possibly use it on, say, a Nest thermostat like this one https://www.amazon.com/Nest-T3007ES-Thermostat-Temperature-Generation/dp/B0131RG6VK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1549842584&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=smart+thermostat&amp;vas=%7B%27vw%27%3A%27B01E4FWXY2%27%7D or any other thermostat that required the use of a C wire to operate.
Thank you for the response, @dapala1
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Yes, the two black wires are from the 24V transformer C wire adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Transformer-Honeywell-Thermostat-Fyve/dp/B075PN6NCV
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If I tape up the other black wire, the ecobee will not turn on. Should I try something different?
I wonder if adding this to my thermostat would work?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075PN6NCV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8kOMBbDXX81VD
You can purchase plug in transformers that provide the voltage for the c-wire depending on your system and thermostat. Here is an example on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075PN6NCV/
The c-wire is suppose to be for providing power to the thermostat. Some thermostats have built in batteries and so the c-wire provides voltage to keep battery charged. Not sure about Ecobee thermostat.
/u/DrkMith Your post is super clear, and incredibly helpful. Yes, I do run the fan on occasion for circulation. That add-a-wire device seems like magic; very cool and handy and seems like my best option. I watched the video, it's within my capabilities I believe. If you've installed them before, any advice or watchouts?
One other note, if all I need is the C wire to the nest to get the setup to work, could I instead use a 24vac transformer connected to a normal outlet? Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075PN6NCV/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_Im6QDbHZ0Y450
Thank you for your expertise on this.
Looks like you have everything you need..should be able to use pek
Or you get one of these
24 Volt Transformer, C-Wire Power Adapter for Nest Honeywell Emerson Sensi, Nest Hello Skybell Smart WiFi Thermostat and Doorbell Power, 25 ft Cable by Fyve Global https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075PN6NCV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mshRDb7B8FXEX
I don't have a c-wire in my steam heat system either. Got a Nest Gen 3 thermostat coz National Grid was selling it for $109 as part of Earth Week. I ordered a plug-in transformer to act as a c-wire. The reviews sound promising. Will report back once I have it installed.
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Transformer-Honeywell-Thermostat-Fyve/dp/B075PN6NCV
This is basically what I need, because there is no options to put one in for my Air Handler/Furnace.
I never tried disconnecting it completely. I bought a power supply from Amazon for it and have it on, but not actually controlling anything.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075PN6NCV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This is the only thermostat on my system....it’s a small house, so just one zone. I found a 24v transformer without the relay that’s included in the venstar, has high reviews. Is the relay aspect in the venstar really needed?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075PN6NCV/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
We had twinkle lights. Everywhere. Hooked up to a clapper, actually. It was fantastic.
https://www.amazon.com/Clapper-Sound-Activated-Switch-Each/dp/B0000CGKLR
[You need one these good sir/madam.](http://www.amazon.com/Clapper-Sound-Activated-Switch-Each/dp/B0000CGKLR "What's that, Marge? I can't hear you! I'm clapping!")
There are wifi enabled plugs that can be controlled via an app.
Or, just get a clapper
The motherfucking clapper.
CLAP ON BITCH
Amazon? http://www.amazon.com/Clapper-Sound-Activated-Switch-Each/dp/B0000CGKLR/ref=sr_1_1?s=lamps-light&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450366349&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=The+clapper.....also maybe any hardware store like True Value or B & G's.
or use clapping
but investing in that is probably stupid because when you pay $10 per outlet you could just upgrade to full home automation anyway
http://www.amazon.com/The-Clapper-Sound-Activated-Switch/dp/B0000CGKLR
Here ya go
Or how about just by clapping? ;)
May I suggest that ?
http://www.amazon.com/The-Clapper-Sound-Activated-Switch/dp/B0000CGKLR
But I can't whistle! D: Also, there's this thing that's similar.
Light socket to plug adapter, similar to this one.
A lot of people use them for Christmas lights so they can be turned on and off with their porch light switch.
You could use something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-1403-Outlet-Socket-Adapter/dp/B001F71O70/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1407430422&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=light+socket+plug+adapter
That way you can run an extension cord into your shed for light without sacrificing the porch light. It would obviously only work if the porch light is switched on, but it's better than not having a porch light at all. I wouldn't run more than a few lamps off that power source though.
Edit: how many more times do you think I could say porch light?
Just a thought. You can change the light bulb adapter above to one that has a plug + light. Then use a trickle charger to keep your battery charged. Since you have a nice space in the T@B trailer, you could use it as a cheap office (if they don't mind).
About $4 if you want to charge slowly
> Light bulb socket adapter: One outlet version -- www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PCVTFC[1] , two outlet version -- http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-1403-Outlet-Socket-Adapter/dp/B001F71O70[2] . Best not to try to make one of these yourself, can be dangerous if something gets wired backwards.
I get these here in the local electrical market. But the light bulb holders are a little higher, I was thinking if I could get a customized socket somewhere near my bed. Where I can plug in my charger.
> Fan speed regulator: Depends on the fan, ceiling fans are controlled different than box/stand fans. Usually it's a burnt resistor or such. Probably best to just replace the regulator assembly, most of the time they're not repairable anyway.
I thought of posting an image of how it looks like from the outside.
Here is an image of it. I think I can even open it, take a pic and let you know, I thought I would first post the pic and ask for feedback. Is the regulator speed depended on the type of ceiling fan? The fan that I am using 1200 MM Sweep, 380 RPM, 80 Watts power consumption.
> Broken cupboard door:
Here is how it looks like. This is the broken door side. And this is how it looks on the cupboard. This image is from another cupboard where both the hinges are intact. So I think it is not really broken but the screws and nut seems to be come off? I went to a hardware store and showed them this pics, they bluntly said that only screws and nuts are not available, you need to purchase the complete set. I don't even know if I am using the technical terms like screws, nuts, hinges right. Forgive me if they are called something else.
> Toilet lid
The one that I have seems to be a little different. Here is what it looks like. The lid wont just fit easily on those plastic connectors given on the top of the hole.
Above all I really want to say a big thank you for taking out time and replying to me. It really helps and can go a long way if I get started with DIY stuffs.
*Sorry if any of the links turned dead. Imgur is disabled in my office, and I used my mobile's 2G network to upload to imgur and manually added the links here on the browser.
I don't have anything concrete to back this up... but I'm pretty sure here in Canada there is no problems with putting lighting & electrical sockets on the same circuit.
How would that differ from a scenario where somebody simply plugs a floor/table lamp into an electrical socket?
Additional, things like this: http://www.amazon.ca/Leviton-1403-Outlet-Socket-Adapter/dp/B001F71O70 Would certainly not be kosher at all.
Definitely an exhaust fan is installed (but no clue if working or not). Looks like it has a plug, so I would get an extension cord and plug it into an outlet, see if it works (most likely it will). If it does, then get one of those light bulb adapters that have an electrical outlet, plug the fan into it and add a light bulb.
Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-1403-Outlet-Socket-Adapter/dp/B001F71O70
Edit: please update us with the results.
Ok - so what I have is this guy:
Leviton 1403 Two Outlet Socket Adapter, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F71O70/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_VsAxwbXJCQ4TB
You screw it into your light socket and then you have outlets - but it's just two pronged. Which is fine for Christmas lights but not fine for extension cords.
work around.
Buy a light socket that has 2 receptacles on each side : Here
Then 2 of these Socket to bulb adapters Here
that should do it.
I used a couple of these to daisy chain a few from the existing lights in the basement so that I could quickly set them up and keep using a single light switch.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001F71O70/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
However, I plan to hardwire a few for my garage just to try it out.
Add something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001F71O70/
amzn.com/B001F71O70
Also available at any hardware store for around $1. But the storage units I'm familiar with had the lights in each section on a timer. You would need to twist the dial on the timer for the units in your section every 15 minutes. This prevents someone from running a chest freezer all the time, for example
You're certain the fan is on same breaker? In my place, most of the breakers were labeled correctly, but i had a couple of outlets and switches that were tied to other breakers. Also, mine has switches and outlets separate. I believe I have upstairs outlets, upstairs lights, downstairs outlets, downstairs lights. I'm not sure what the norm is for this, but getting a little klein pen tester and tying your rooms/fixtures to their actual breakers in a google doc will be really helpful now and in the future.
doorbells are easy enough to handle, as long as the transformer is still good. the transformer converts your home's 120volt electricity to 12 volts (usually) via this large, fist sized looking block, usually located nearish to the breaker box.
doorbells are run in a low voltage loop. the power is supplied from the breaker box or a nearby junction box to the transformer. then it runs from the transformer in a big circle to the chime and the buzzer. when you press the doorbell buzzer, you're completing the circuit and it causes the chime to sound.
One of these will help a lot.
https://www.amazon.com/Voltage-Protection-Klein-Tools-NCVT-2/dp/B004FXJOQO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=electric+tester+pen&amp;qid=1563599399&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=electric+tes&amp;sr=8-3
Or a standard multimeter.
You're still going to want to make sure nothing is live even after shutting breakers off. Definitely get one of these, lol. I've learned not to trust any of the electrical work in my house.
A properly installed switch never switches neutral. I've run into several fixtures with constant hot at the box. Get a non-contact voltage tester if you aren't comfortable with a multi-meter (or even if you are)
https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-NCVT-2-Non-Contact-Voltage/dp/B004FXJOQO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495817034&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=non+contact+voltage+detector
If you would rather go the Amazon route here is on.
http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-NCVT-2-Non-Contact-Voltage/dp/B004FXJOQO/
>an electrical safety tester
Is that like a Klein Non-Contact Voltage Tester to see if the circuit is still hot/energized?
https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-NCVT-2-Non-Contact-Voltage/dp/B004FXJOQO/
In these scenarios, the next step I go to is testing the power supply.
https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO/
You can test and prove every cable/connector in the entire system. Also, have you taken a good flash light and checked all of the capacitors on the motherboard to verify that none are leaking/bulging?
Does this happen with different games or just one?
The symptoms on the surface seem to suggest a GPU (hardware or drivers) is crashing and windows is resetting the display drivers. When windows does this it does not always succeed and takes the entire PC with it.
If temps all are ok, make sure the card is seated correctly (take it out and put it back in and pay attention to make sure everything is in all the way). Also make sure the PCIE power supply connectors are properly connected.
Also a bad power supply could do this, You can test for this using a power supply tester or a Multi meter.
I didn't notice the kernel power 41.
> "The kernel power event ID 41 error occurs when the computer is shut down, or it restarts unexpectedly. When a computer that is running Windows starts, a check is performed to determine whether the computer was shut down cleanly. If the computer was not shut down cleanly, a Kernel Power Event 41 message is generated."
This makes be think more inline with a bad PSU or Power related. Most quality PSU have a voltage out of range safety feature that if the output voltage is to low or high it will automatically turn off to prevent damage to the hardware.
--edit--
me english bad, me fix, me make english good.
also the ATX v2.2 voltage specs are +/- 5% on postive voltages and +/- 10% on negative voltages. ATX12V Power Supply Design Guide Version 2.2 section 3.2.1
Output | Range | Min. | Nom. | Max.
:-:|--:|--:|--:|--:|
+12VDC | +/- 5% | +11.40 | +12.00 | +12.60
+5VDC | +/- 5% | +4.75 | +5.00 | +5.25
+3.3VDC | +/- 5% | +3.14 | +3.30 | +3.47
-12VDC | +/- 10% | +10.80 | -12.00 | -13.20
Hope this info helps
yeah pretty much. any tester will do but id recommend getting something like this as there wont be any confusion if the power supply is bad
It seems like it is ok. One good way to test the power output of a PSU is with a tester. One like this is nice to have on hand.
Or you could use software, such as HWiNFO. It can monitor your PSU as well as other aspects of your machine.
A $32 Dr. Power II will pay for itself if you do much building or custom cables. Learned this the hard way as well.
You plug the cables in to the tester, so effectively testing both.
Something like this.
Well there's PSU testers you can buy for that purpose. Other than that I am unsure short of putting it into an entirely different computer. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005F778JO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=101E02BC34IN0&amp;coliid=IRL5JWJC1GMC0
I would strip it down to the bare minimum (cpu, cpu fan, 1 stick of ram) and see if it powers on. If it does then you know it's one of the 'extras'. If it doesn't then 90%+ it's the PSU.
I use a Dr. Power II and it does a great job.
https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493684045&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=dr+power+ii
Well, there are PSU testers like https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO
A psu tester is another option and is probably going to be easier to use.
Personally I am going to try and avoid parts for his build because of not knowing exactly what he has.
You could get him zip ties, velcro strips, tool kit (just search computer tool kit on amazon), usb drive, DAC/AMP, nice router, custom mouse pad, nice pair of head phones, power supply tester, Electricity Usage Monitor, Electric Duster, Microfiber Cleaning Cloths, 99% Isopropyl Alcohol (rubbing alcohol),... I could keep on going but I think you get the idea. Hopefully when you post your build I'll come back to edit my comment.
Thanks -- that's helpful. Do you have any z-wave relays that you've used in the past? I've used the Remotec switch before, but if there's something else out there that's better, would love to know.
Great to hear! Was thinking I needed something like this for the low voltage:
Remotec Zwave Dry Contact Fixture Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00913ATFI
Here's the gist of it:
As for the cosmetics, others have alluded that the switch plate covers will not fit. However, the thread pitch is the same and so you should be able to get one screw to thread properly. I used a blank wall plate and covered the inside with black duct tape because the blinking blue LED on the switch was making me crazy when I'd watch movies. I used the top screw to hold the plate onto the Remotec switch, and then took a second screw and used a Dremel to grind it down to just the head of the screw, then glued that onto the lower screw hole on the wall plate. It looks like both screws are in, but in reality it's just the top one holding it in place.
Remotec Zwave Dry Contact Fixture Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00913ATFI
Garage doors work by shorting the door wires for a moment to command the door. You could use this to accomplish that to open and close a door. You'd need a tilt sensor to know your door position and figure out the logic in HA. If you tell Alexa to close the door, and it's closed, do nothing.
I'm just a random person on the internet, research it yourself.
If you use Home Assistant, there's actually a built in component for reading license plates. All you need is a cheap IP camera (edit, or web camera) and you're ready to go. To actually open the gate, you're probably going to want some sort of dry-contact relay, like this. You can also set Home Assistant up to send you an alert or flash a light in your home when an unrecognized car pulls up.
How about rigging his chair with an Echo Dot (gen 2). Gen 2 is cheaper and has USB power so you can power from either the chair or a Mophie juice pack. Tethered to his phone for connectivity so he can take Alexa with him when he goes out?
For the garage door ...If chamberlain didn’t suck by not providing a free skill I’d suggest the MyQ for about $60. However maybe can figure out another way to open and close by voice. If he already has a Zwave hub like SmartThings wonder if you could use this relay, along with a linear actuator to press the garage button using voice. Create a routine: when I say Alexa open garage, turn on relay, which powers the actuator and presses the button. Seems like this would work and now I kind of want to find a button to press at my house to try it. Can vouch for this working just throwing out some ideas for people to weigh in on.
Remotec Zwave Dry Contact Fixture Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00913ATFI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YBn7BbX000B54
ECO-WORTHY 12V 2 Inch Stroke Linear Actuator 330lbs Maximum Lift with Mounting Brackets (12VDC 2'') https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NM8H5TG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lRn7Bb3459MZV
Maybe check this Remotec Zwave Dry Contact Fixture Module. It's reported as compatible. Here's a thread where someone is using it to control a fireplace: https://www.reddit.com/r/Abode/comments/5qe8up/zwave_fireplace_control/
This is the one I am about to order. Check out the reviews. Lots of pictures from people who have hooked it up.
Edit: Looks like it's out of stock and no idea when it's coming back. :(
But at least it looks like the one wgbm linked hooks up about the same way.
I've read that in so many reviews. Ideally, I'd like to set it up exactly as you describe, but instead of training my dogs to utilized said button, I'd like to control it via zwave. Did you have to hack it to hardwire buttons into it, or does it provide contacts for such options?
Would such a relay: https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1448130400&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=zwave+relay
have worked in your switch setup?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00913ATFI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A1O77D5UJY7IVU
Or
https://www.amazon.com/Qubino-Z-Wave-Contact-Module-ZMNHND3/dp/B01MSEG2J1/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_107_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=8Z9W3F3E3AH328B9PHGG
For zwave.
I’ve used both. Can set parameters for auto shutoff for time and choose to power off switch with loss and return of power. Pricy but work well
I’ve been looking into the same thing. There is one Z-Wave Dry Switch I’ve seen, and you’ll likely need a millivolt fireplace pilot system to do the actual ignition/deignition. Then you replace the manual switch on the pilot with the Z-Wave one.
I haven’t tried this myself yet, but I believe those are the pieces needed.
Depending on how your fireplace is ignited (i.e.-manually with a valve, match/lighter, etc) you might get away with one of these. When we had our house rewired (full gut job) I had them wire both fireplaces so that I could simply flip a switch: insta-flame. This would replace the switch but also add zwave compatibility so that anytime your fireplace is turned on, you could also set a scene to turn on the blower.
I've also seen zwave relays which you can modulate between momentary and latching so ostensibly you could control both the fireplace and blower motor with one relay. You would simply need a separate 110/220 relay to operate the blower but that would simply be an on/off situation i.e.- when the fireplace is on, the blower is on. If you went with a switch with whatever automation standard you could include a temperature gauge of some sort to turn on the blower when the room reaches a certain temperature.
This is what I used for the same situation... it works great. I use it via Z-Wave with SmartThings.
https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI
assuming it's a desktop, you can wire a normally open, SPST DC relay to the pc's power switch terminals. power the relay by a wall wart connected to a zwave module. from the vera issue a command to turn on the zwave module and then back off after a second or 2. the relay will close during that time, shorting the terminals of the power button together simulating a button press. or you can just buy one of these modules and wire its outputs across the power switch terminals and issue the same on/off commands mentioned from the vera. you could also use this method to turn off your pc too, depending on what you have your power button mapped to in windows (sleep, shutdown, hibernate, etc)
On the high side of your $, but dry contact:
Remotec Zwave Dry Contact Fixture Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00913ATFI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Z0j6Ab8189S79
I think that might be the same dry switch, but I used this one here. Pretty easy to setup and has been working for a couple of years now
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00913ATFI/ref=oh_aui_i_sh_in_o0_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I have it integrated with smartthings and Google home.
My gas fireplace had a switch on the wall, so I thought a smart switch would accomplish my goal to add the ability to use Siri to control the fireplace. Realized the switch was a low powered one, not a normal light switch.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00913ATFI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This wired between the switch allowed me to connect to the aeotec z wave hub and works great.
Here is the amazon link from the other comment https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00913ATFI/. Note though that it doesn't fit most standard decora panels so you would probably have to trim it.
I did this with z-wave using this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00913ATFI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It does require power, but I had access to 120V under the fireplace.
My brother has a vertdesk (just a different electric sit/stand desk) and he as a tripe monitor mount and got some power extension cables. Should be able to get you up and down without having things come unplugged, and "float" your monitors.
Also, how do you like the EvoDesk? Any good?
You're welcome
Agreed, labeling them is the best way to do it, even when they're plugged in. For my wall warts, I have them attached to a power strip with these 1ft extension cords so I can actually fit more than one in a strip. All of my electronics I don't use very often (old video game systems, VCRs, old towers, etc) get plugged into one of these power strips so they don't leach power when off. Each switch has a label for the device plugged into it and each cord plugged into it is also labeled. I have all the extenders labeled as well. This way no matter where I am in the power chain, I know what's plugged into what. The only thing that isn't labeled is the powerstrips ...yet.
One of these would have helped get you the 6" you needed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CEJW0WQ
I use a couple of these surge protectors under my desk. They're amazing. The swivel feature is legit.
Also, if you have any power bricks that take up space, these are a must-have.
I bought a pack of 6 inch extension cords. I am surprised at how many times I have used them in other similar situations. Might have been these:
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Power-Extension-Outlet-Listed/dp/B00CEJW0WQ/ref=asc_df_B00CEJW0WQ/
LOL nice.
A bag of these would probably come in handy http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CEJW0WQ
These might be a better solution for whatever UPS you get. It might not look tidy but definitely fixes those wall wart issues
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CEJW0WQ/ref=pd_aw_lpo_23_bs_img_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=JQ3933NX5XB4F9V976TS
you’re welcome
How is it better than this one?
GoControl Z-Wave Isolated Contact Fixture Module - FS20Z-1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ER6MH22
It's cheaper too (~$4)
These make dumb switches smart. You do need a z-wave controller live SmartThings though.
GoControl Z-Wave Isolated Contact Fixture Module - FS20Z-1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ER6MH22/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_EMQIybFSJ86A4
My first SmartThing connected device. Using the echo with the ST hub and one of these :) ... GoControl Z-Wave Isolated Contact Fixture Module - FS20Z-1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ER6MH22/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_CLABybFRVVJBV
GoControl Z-Wave Isolated Contact Fixture Module - FS20Z-1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ER6MH22/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TNovDbJHWGZ4R
Items is not currently available but I used it to activate a buzzer via smart things. Worked like a charm.
https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Z-Wave-Isolated-Contact-Fixture/dp/B00ER6MH22
Check this out. The Amazon page shows 15amp but the PDFs specs show 20a. GoControl Z-Wave Isolated Contact Fixture Module - FS20Z-1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ER6MH22/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wuSXAb0MVVSX9
I trigger my millivolt ignition system using a Z-Wave isolated contact relay setup as a switch on my SmartThings hub.
The relay needs 120v AC to power the radio.
SmartThings let’s me control the fireplace from my phone and Google Home (also Alexa compatible). You can also add various remotes or switches that work with the hub.
https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Z-Wave-Isolated-Contact-Fixture/dp/B00ER6MH22/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540334218&amp;sr=8-1-fkmr2&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=non+contact+zwave+relay
So I guess I'm still not sure what you are actually after. Just a waterproof wifi plug? If so I'm not aware of such a thing.
That being said, what about something like this? https://smile.amazon.com/GoControl-Z-Wave-Isolated-Contact-Fixture/dp/B00ER6MH22
Or maybe this: https://smile.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-Outdoor/dp/B0013V8K3O/
You need one of these relays.
https://smile.amazon.com/GoControl-Z-Wave-Isolated-Contact-Fixture/dp/B00ER6MH22/
https://smile.amazon.com/Vision-Z-Wave-Micro-Switch-1-pack/dp/B01GQX1GFC
I have the first one and it won't fit in a gang box, so you might want to try #2.
I wish there was a "z-wave finger" that just pushed a button, but mounting that would be difficult.
you'll want to use a dry-contact relay to control that valve.
You can use the one you linked, but you will also need a 12v power supply. Here is a Z-Wave one, no programming required. It provides a simple on-off switch.
https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Z-Wave-Isolated-Contact-Fixture/dp/B00ER6MH22/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&amp;dpID=31WTIqBdTIL&amp;dpPl=1&amp;keywords=Zwave%20relay&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;qid=1463230543&amp;ref=plSrch&amp;ref_=mp_s_a_1_2&amp;sr=8-2
Not sure on the humidity/water sensor
Search for "dry contact" + preferred connection technology.
e.g. zwave dry contact
For what it's worth, here's the one I bought;
I figured another use for the dry contact - for my gas fireplace. BTW...there are other z-wave contacts available on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Z-Wave-Isolated-Contact-Fixture/dp/B00ER6MH22/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1453504530&amp;sr=8-1-spell&amp;keywords=Remotec+Z-Wave+Dry+Contact
dang, unfortunately i only got a this relay
http://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Z-Wave-Isolated-Contact-Fixture/dp/B00ER6MH22
and it doesn't have the functionality to be a momentary contact switch.
I assumed wink had the functionality to at least mimic this with software, since smart things does.
I'm wondering why is it still so expensive when ZWAVE device with same features (dry contact relay) is $37 regular price
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ER6MH22/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_3?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
I use a zwave dry contact relay for mine. This one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ER6MH22/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483897250&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=zwave+relay&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31WTIqBdTIL&amp;ref=plSrch
Not sure how large a motor your running, but this may be able to do what your looking for. I think it should pair as a generic zwave switch...
http://www.nortekcontrol.com/product_detail.php?productId=1572
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ER6MH22/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1458509127&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=gocontrol+relay
I just did exactly this. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ER6MH22/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Works like a charm. Use a old power supply cord and plugged in under the fireplace.
I followed these instructions https://imgur.com/a/2gJxj using a GoControl FS20Z-1 z-wave dry contact switch bought on Amazon. I had a small change in the setup where my fireplace model differed from the writeup https://imgur.com/kwFJ8j1 I then paired it with Wink 2 hub and IFTTT and it worked great. But I've switched hubs to Hubitat Elevation hub which ties directly to Google Assistant. I love it. I have retained the original switch on the wall, AND have app and voice control over the fireplace.
Watch out, you're going to get the boo birds in a few posts telling you that you should NEVER automate something that can burn your house down. For that reason I have a rule in my hub to automatically turn the fireplace off after 30 minutes no matter what. This way I also don't let my wife run up the gas bill :).
As an alternative there is this module.
I was going back and forth deciding to get the Remotec or this GoControl model to control my garage door. Decided on the GoControl and it has been working great for a couple of months now.
Err, the tweezers just fyi MUST be ceramic tipped. You can't use normal tweezers.
For kanthal your best bet is amazon.. extremely cheap.
HERE and HERE
edit: the tweezers on Fasttech HERE
Hahah. No prob man. I'm always willing to help out a fellow vaper, especially someone in the military. 3 of my best friends served a year in Iraq and two of them are now Rangers. Anything I can do to help make your time pass easier would be my pleasure. First off, you don't need a butane lighter for the kanthal. That's not necessary at all. I don't torch any of my wire before putting it in. Usually you would use that to oxidize SS mesh before using. The first thing I mentioned was the V4 Fogger. You can buy this here( http://www.eciggity.com/fogger-v4-1-v4-4/ ) since it is sold out on Fasttech. I would also buy a replacement tank for this since it is glass. You can buy a couple of them since they are on Fasttech for only $1.80 each, just add it to your order(I would prob buy 5 just in case. It's overboard, but just in case). Next you can buy 100ft of 28g kanthal wire here: http://www.amazon.com/TEMCo-Kanthal-Wire-Gauge-Resistance/dp/B00FBSVQX6 . Next is the cotton. You can buy organic or sterile cotton. You can find this at CVS or Walgreens. I would buy about 3 bags of this just in case. If you run out, I'm sure the base that you will be stationed at would have a couple of hand fulls for you. As for other devices, not sure what you are into. Drippers are good for clouds but you have to keep dripping on them intermittently. Kayfuns/Russians are good for the tighter draw if that's what you are into. You can find these clones on fasttech as well for a decent price. Last but not least, an ohm tester: http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10006334/1494601-atomizer-resistance-tester-ohm-meter . Let me know some other questions that you have. Also, how long you going for?
http://www.amazon.com/Kanthal-Wire-28-Gauge-Resistance/dp/B00FBSVQX6/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&amp;m=A2H6SGXE4PDAOV $7.30 for 100' roll of 28g and free shipping!
Is this the right kanthal to buy?
http://www.amazon.com/Kanthal-Wire-28-Gauge-Resistance/dp/B00FBSVQX6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1397096496&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=28+gauge+Kanthal+Wire
I have no idea what I am doing or what else I need to buy, have any suggestions :-)
wire
Nitecore
http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-IntelliCharger-i4-Battery-Charger/dp/B005UAI372/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1405819372&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=nitecore
VTC's
http://www.amazon.com/Sony-US18650VTC4-2100mAh-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00J470LTA/ref=pd_sim_sg_4?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1E35CBKZ68479WX7KXRR
28 Gauge Kanthal
http://www.amazon.com/TEMCo-Kanthal-Wire-Gauge-Resistance/dp/B00FBSVQX6/ref=pd_bxgy_sg_text_y
Also, will the VTC5 work in the K100?
As everyone else has said, you don't want those batteries nor that charger. They are unsafe to use in a mechanical mod, and that charger will either crap out on you or break within a few months. You'll also need an ohmmeter to check the resistance of your builds, kanthal for your coils and something for wicks. Recommendations below:
I know it seems like a lot to take in at first, but it'll be worth it once you get everything and it's nice high quality stuff to last you.
Amazon sells Temco wire, it's $7 for 100ft. They also have organic cotton balls, I get these.
I have an authentic Brass Monkee and it's my favorite RDA. I wish it were just a tad bigger to build on. The Tobh I have is from Tobecco, and the o-rings are shit. They frayed really quickly. Maybe I just got unlucky? While o-rings are easily replaced, the quality of the Tobecco was good, so I'd assume the Brass Monkee clone would be as well.
Depends if you're interested in the 18650 mechanical mods or more like box mods.
If you started on a kanger tank of any kind, most would consider a Nautilus an upgrade. But venturing further the Kayfun is probably a better option if you take the time to build and learn.
As for mods; You could use a Nautilus on an MVP 2.0 for a box mod. All the way up to DNA chip mods which just give you more exclusive control over your exact power input to the coil.
I started with an eGo-C and eventually decided to try new stuff. Clearomizers and different tanks. Kanger T3's to PT2. Cartos and all kinds of bs.
If I had to recommend you a set up via my personal tastes and through real testing. I would tell you to buy:
VTC-4 Purchase LINK
Nemesis Clone Purchase LINK
Kanthal Purchase Link
Charger Purchase LINK
Ohm Meter
Cotton LINK
And your own e-liqid of course.
None of these items are necessary to vape on and are not of a professionally organized list. But they'll definitely move you on up in the vaping world and your experience can be completely tailored however you like with these items.
First advice is to get yourself some 28 guage kanthal. Will be a hell of a lot easier to work with and you can build a bigger coil.
When first getting into mechs there are a few costs that are unavoidable. They are as follows:
Good batteries
Sony VTC5 or VTC4 from illumn.com or another trustworthy battery supplier.
A good charger
Nitecore i2, Nitecore i4, Efest LUC v4, or Xtar brand chargers.
Ohmmeter
http://www.fasttech.com/product/1519800-atomizer-resistance-tester-ohm-meter
Kanthal
28 gauge
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FBSVQX6?cache=38a824a0030f01bef8e0aaea10a9fb59&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;qid=1411501324&amp;sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1
24 gauge
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00K22JQ2E?cache=38a824a0030f01bef8e0aaea10a9fb59&amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&amp;qid=1411501449&amp;sr=8-6#ref=mp_s_a_1_6
Organic cotton balls or rayon (sold as cellucotton 100% rayon)
This stuff will need to be bought no mater what mechanical mod you get (Gauge of kanthal can be different sizes)
Now for the fun part, picking mods. The nemesis is a solid performer.
Nemesis
http://www.fasttech.com/products/3027/10009160/1604509
This should immediately be done to the switch. It is the best modification that I have ever made and it is free.
http://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/1yczcg/my_fix_for_the_nemesis_button_and_how_to_shorten/
Switch Magnets
http://www.fasttech.com/products/3099/10005773/1558901-switch-magnets-for-nemesis-mod-10-pack
If you want power regulation you can use a kick module which regulates wattage between 5 and 12 watts.
Kick Module
http://www.fasttech.com/products/3099/10006524/1501000-variable-wattage-kick-module-for-mechanical-mod-pv
If you are using a kick then you don't need to worry about voltage drop, but if you are going for more than 12 watts (which you are most likely going to do unless you are using a kayfun or clearo) copper tape will reduce voltage drop significantly.
Copper Tape
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CBPK0FW?cache=38a824a0030f01bef8e0aaea10a9fb59&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;qid=1411500089&amp;sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1
Also optional, to reduce voltage drop and overall length of your mod. This one is specifically made to fit the nemesis and kayfun.
Nemesis Hybrid Connector
http://www.fasttech.com/products/3023/10009156/1662400
I use one of these to connect the nemesis in 18350 mode with a kayfun 3.1. It stands at 4 inches tall and is great for putting in your pocket when you're out drinking, causing trouble, or whatever it is that the kids are doing these days.
If you are looking for something a little cheaper to just get the feel of a mech, I started with an M16 telescopic mod.
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1411/10005307/1627200-sentinel-m16-style-telescopic-mechanical-mod
You won't be able to put a kick in it or use copper tape and it is made mostly out of aluminum, but it is a solid mod to start with and can take 18350-18650 batteries. Any 18350 batteries that you get should be AW IMR or purple Efest batteries.
Of course you will need an atomizer to go with your new mech. Most 3 post drippers are good to start out with. I prefer the IGO-M because of the large air holes and 2 screw positive block, but there are a lot of options for drippers. The Kayfun 3.1 is usually a good starter rebuildable tank atomizer (RTA)
And last, but not least, we get to battery safety and types of mods. Godofsteam.wordpress.com/intro-to-vaping/ is the best site that I have ever visited for research into mechs and rebuildables. It should be all you need to help you get started.
Here is my setup:
The battery for the P3 last me 16 to 18 hours before I have to charge them again. I usually buy 2 batteries and have one in reserve fully charged.
I have the exact same wire and i find i need less wire to achieve the same resistance as others, that is extremly weird
I doubt that you're going to get a better price than this on here
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FBSVQX6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1398059494&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SX200_QL40
They also have other gauges of wire on there too
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FBSVQX6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
You can use the Lutron Caseta for 3 way switches or more. Install the full Lutron Caseta switch in one box, and use remotes for the other boxes. You can put another switch anywhere, even if there isn't wiring there.
Lutron Caseta Wireless In-Wall Dimmer, 600/150-Watt, Single Pole, Works with Amazon Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_BazDyb4YRKZ8B
Remote with wall bracket
Lutron PJ2-WALL-WH-L01 Pico Remote Control with Wall Mounting Kit, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JR202JQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ObzDybQ8C594T
You need the hub as well
Hub, 1 switch, and 1 remote
Lutron P-BDG-PKG1W Caseta Wireless Dimmer Kit with Smart Bridge for Amazon Alexa and Selected Models, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MXCRAX8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kdzDybXVZ4ZGM
They sell the wall brackets seperate as well
Lutron PICO-WBX-ADAPT Pico Wallplate Bracket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JZRAFEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nfzDybQX74B01
Basically you can get a 2way solution for $100, and add a 3rd switch for $20
The Lutron Connected Bulb remote can control bulbs directly and has a wall plate bracket. It doesn't wire in unfortunately.
Yes...still, the connected bulb remote is the right option. Lutron even makes a wall bracket for it and it fits inside a standard decora wall plate. I do this with a Caseta switch + pico remote in a 3 way setup. First switch has the Caseta switch installed like a normal switch. 2nd switch has the line, load, and traveler connected with a wire nut + the wall mount + the pico remote. You would never know it wasn’t a “real” switch.
wall bracket
Edit to clarify: you want the Lutron connected bulb remote, NOT the pico remote, but they have the same form factor and both fit in that bracket.
Yup. Otherwise just abandon the mechanical switch and drop a Caseta remote in. Nice thing about the remote is auto 50% (if you want it) and you can program it to turn on extra accessories (hall light or...?) as well.
They look just like switches - you just need one of these Lutron PICO-WBX-ADAPT Pico Wallplate Bracket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JZRAFEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FXL6ybQQGHE8S.
My recommendation would be to have a normal switch in A and disconnect all the other switches and wires(you can probably just leave them cold in the wall) and then use pico remotes in the other two locations. They're great because they can screw in right into a standard cover plate. And be placed anywhere since they're battery operated. Sadly they only work with other lutron switches even through a third party hub like a wink hub so you'd have to replace your leviton switch with a lutron one.
Also the dimmable Lutrons don't require a neutral as they basically keep the circuit open just a tiny bit so the can stay powered(think powerdraw of like miliamps) but not enough for the bulbs to turn on.
Switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLAXFQA/
Pico + bracket x 2:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLAXFQ0/
https://www.amazon.com/Caseta-Wireless-Wallplate-Bracket-PICO-WBX-ADAPT/dp/B00JZRAFEA/
You can buy them separately if you already have existing ecosystem or you can get this kit:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M3XJUAD
Lutron Caseta. They even have a mount bracket where you don't have to cut the wall to add the second switch.
You would need a switch kit and a mounting bracket.
https://www.amazon.com/P-PKG1W-WH-Wireless-600-watt-150-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-PICO-WBX-ADAPT-Pico-Wallplate-Bracket/dp/B00JZRAFEA
I was wondering if someone was going to mention this. The connected bulb remotes pair directly with the hue bulbs via the Zigbee Lightlink protocol (pairing info here) and have instantaneous response to both dim and switch the lights. They can be paired with one or many bulbs. When matched with the pico bracket, they can be installed in the place of the regular switch, just remove the old switch and wirenut the hot to the switch leg so that way the bulb sockets are always "on". They are the exact size of a decora switch and therefore cheap switch covers can be used with them. I have them all over my house.
these are used for junction box and flat surface install. Pretty simple. I even have one on my headboard ;)
The way I would do it is, change the plug that's on a switch to a plug that's on all the time and use a couple of these, http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JJY1QG0/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1411994996&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=SL75. Then I would replace the switch with http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KLAXOE8/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?qid=1411995035&amp;sr=8-6&amp;pi=SL75 and http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JZRAFEA/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1411995035&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=SL75. Its super easy to do this way and everything is connected without trying to fish new wires in.
So I wanted to report back for people who come across this thread. Based on Manbient's recommendation, I am using Lutron Connected Remotes in conjunction with the Phillips Hue Bulbs and it works great. "Pairing" the Remote to the Hue hub first and then to each bulb you want it to control worked flawlessly. I tested a network outtage and the lutron remote still controls the lights just fine. The Hue remote DOES NOT, as it reports back to the hub to control the lights. While the hue remote has more options for colors, etc, the Lutron remotes seem to be a little more failproof, and can be mounted on the wall in standard faceplates. In fact, I think you can use the Pico wallplate bracket to give it the built-in look. Here is a link to that product: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JZRAFEA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This seems like the best solution for now, and it is still completely customizeable/reworkable, unlike wired switches or other combos.
The only thing that I don't like about the Lutron Connected remotes is that a single tap of the "on" button doesn't bring them back to their previously dimmed level, it turns them on full blast. Of course, you can just use the dim up and down buttons, but I got used to Lutron's Maestro switches where a single tap would bring the lights up to the previous level and a double tap would bring them on full. I did a little searching and couldn't find whether this was possible with the connected remote.
Anyone have a solution or workaround for that?
Thanks again everyone!
Edit: grammar
>You need to find a smart switch that does NOT require a neutral wire. I don't know exactly which ones don't, but I know they're out there.
This one will work.
Unless I'm misunderstanding, they don't have a wireless dimmer option. I'll need one of these physically wired to the light, which unfortunately isn't possible.
Is there additional functionality I'm not aware of?
There are quite a few to choose from. Below are two I use, but you find a lot more on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/iDevices-Wall-Switch-Required-Single/dp/B06Y5G7XPJ/ref=sr_1_5?s=lamps-light&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511056280&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=idevices&amp;dpID=41mQiJ8aAOL&amp;preST=_SX300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
https://www.amazon.com/LUTRON-PD-6WCL-WH-Caseta-Wireless-Dimmer/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511056299&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;ppw=fresh&amp;keywords=lutron%2Bcaseta%2Bdimmer&amp;th=1
Haha, thanks! I like to know what's what, but it looks like since they didn't move the switch box, they didn't have to update it to the latest code when they renovated. I might have to look into a leak-to-ground switch if I can find one. I might be out of luck without using a Lutron Caseta Wireless.
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-PD-6WCL-WH-Caseta-Wireless-150-Watt/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467145260&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=lutron+caseta+wireless
Looking at that, I might actually do that, Lutron has better quality products anyway and the price has come down on them too!
I guarantee you your house DOES have neutral wires, because AC power won't work without neutral wires. There may not be neutral wires in the light switch boxes though. Often what was done in years past was run a power line (hot/neutral/ground or hot/neutral in a grounded metal cladding) straight to the fixture, then run a two-conductor cable (hot/load) from the fixture to the switch. Thus there's neutral in the fixture, but not in the switch box. That's probably what happened here.
As for the Caseta- almost all smart switches require neutral into the switch itself. That's because while the dumb switch just interrupts power flow, the smart switch consumes power itself and thus the neutral is needed because the switch itself is a tiny 'load'. SOME Caseta switches don't require neutral, but they DO require having enough wattage load because the power that the switch runs on has to travel through the lights. If you have smaller LED lights, that often won't work right.
If you want to test this all- disconnect the red or orange from the switch one at a time. If this theory is correct, disconnecting one will make the fan not work (but light will still work), and disconnecting the other will make nothing at all work. Remember, turn off the circuit breaker before opening the outlet box, and cap the spare wire with a wire nut.
If that all is correct- you need either the Caseta dimmer that doesn't need a neutral, like this one...
Lutron makes great smart switches. As others mentioned occupancy sensors are better than smart switches for high traffic areas like kitchens, bathrooms, hallways and smart switches are better in bedrooms, living rooms, etc.
There really isn't much in the form of smart switches for fans.
There is something from Lutron like this https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-PD-6WCL-WH-Assistant/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1543194776&amp;sr=8-20&amp;keywords=ceiling+fan+smart+switch
I don't know anything about lutron or what infrastructure it requires. It does say it's compatible with Alexa.
if you have a remote for the fan you might look at bond https://www.amazon.com/BOND-Automation-Ceiling-Fireplace-Compatible/dp/B071GVGVVH/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1543194776&amp;sr=8-14&amp;keywords=ceiling+fan+smart+switch
which mimics your remote control, but has the disadvantage of being uni directional, or stateless.
There is also an Insteon solution, but you would need at least a hub for that and be decently handy with electrical (as you would with the Lutron to be fair).
>the smart switch is a cheaper option
You don't seem to be getting the fact that you are comparing apples to oranges. Further, smart switches are not necessarily cheaper than Hue color bulbs. The Lutron is a popular smart switch that is more expensive. Also, your statement that smart switches never need to be replaced is wrong. Smart switches have sensitive electronics that can and do fail.
I am not an electrician but just went through the same challenge and found a solution. I have been swapping out the dimmer switches in my house (built in 1959) for new smart switches. I realized that there are some switches that do not require a neutral wire.
Lutron Caseta Smart Home Dimmer Switch, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, and the Google Assistant | for LED Light Bulbs, Incandescent Bulbs and Halogen Bulbs | PD-6WCL-WH | White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kBT2DbJ69HVY7
Maybe an electrician on here can explain this better, but these switches basically leave a trickle of power when turned off to keep the switch working.
Something like this?
Lutron Caseta Wireless In-Wall Dimmer, 600/150-Watt, Single Pole, Works with Amazon Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lQcAybR2S3GG7
Yes. The Lutron dimmer is a physical switch that controls the device wired to it just like a normal non-smart switch.
These are the plug in dimmers: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-P-PKG1P-WH-Assistant/dp/B00JJY1QG0
You can pair them with wireless remotes to control lamps.
I assume that it is, but I can't confirm it. Are you in the US? If so, you'd be better buying either of these, which I can confirm are two wire:
Dimmer and Remote
Dimmer
Both are less expensive than the item on eBay, and the first one comes with a Pico remote. I've bought several of each of Amazon. (Lowes and maybe Home Depot also stock these).
Clap to your hearts content!
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0000CGKLR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JcrwCb35HKNN4
Does the garage have a light? Ive used an extension cord plus one of these in a similar situation before.
Get yourself a voltage tester and you can trace the outage back to the source. Start with the fixture, then work your way back.
You will need a neutral wire for any Z-Wave product and most smart switches. I say most because the Lutron Caseta switches don't require a neutral- see here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLAXFQA. Edit: As mentioned by others there are also switches by Leviton, Cooper and some other manufactures- Once I invested in the GE switches I stopped paying attention to this space! Sorry about that generalization!
You'll want to look in the back of the box (can't really see it from the picture) for a bundle of white wires. These are usually the neutral wires and you can tie a jumper wire into this. Hopefully the wiring in the older house was recently re-done to be up to code, there should be a bundle of neutral wires back there wirenutted together.
I didn't see the picture for the wall outlet, but unless you have some really old wiring, there should be a neutral (white) wire connected to one side of the outlet, generally it's a silver screw where as the black wire (hot/power wire) is connected to a gold screw. Green for ground.
I'm not familiar with innr ( or most home automation stuff) but why not get the dimmer switch made for lightify?
TP-Link Mini WiFi Smart Plug (Works with the Google Assistant).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K1JVZOE/ref=ox_sc_mini_detail?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Remote access: control devices connected to the smart Plug wherever you have internet using the free kasa app on your smartphone. Requires a secured 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi network Connection
Scheduling: schedule the smart Plug to automatically power electronics on and off as needed, like setting lights to come on at dusk or turn off at sunrise
Away mode: turns your devices on and off at different times to give the appearance that someone is home. Usage Tips - Place your Smart Wi-Fi Plug Mini within the range of your Wi-Fi router or access point (approximately 100 feet). Avoid physical obstructions and radio interference in the surrounding area.
I thought I'd share my experience for the community, and hopefully my experiences help or encourage others to give this a shot on their own. I had absolutely no experience growing anything when I started, so if I can do it, so can anyone else!
I've got an equipment list of the stuff I'm using since it took me a long time to figure out what to buy. This doesn't include the $1.50/week for RO water from the local grocery store, the electricity, or the other stuff I ended up buying afterward for my clones.
No grow tent or ventiliation is needed for my scenario since I have full access to a basement. It's perfect since there is a water heater and a boiler in the same room so the temp is always pretty constant, there is plenty of CO2 from the gas that the appliances burn, and the humidity is also pretty constant.
A few of the mistakes I made that I'd fix next time:
The images have some details about my grow, but I'll be happy to answer any other questions folks might have.
Item | Cost | Product Link
---|---|----
Seeds (OG Kush Feminized, 20ct) | $80 | Marijuana Seeds NL
Coco Coir | $17 | Kempf Coco
300W LED Lighting | $80 | GalaxyHydro
Plastic Pot | $0 | Craigslist - Free
Light Timers | $12 | Light Timers
pH Tester | $18 | pH Pen
pH Up and Down | $16 | General Hydro
Jeweler's Loupe | $6 | Magnify Me
Nutes | $35 | Canna Coco 1 & 2
Perlite | $13 | Black Gold
CalMag | $17 | Botanicare Supplement
TOTAL | $294
Also, THANK YOU to everyone in this sub. There is a ton of info out there about growing, but this place is the best location I found for timely info related to my new hobby.