Lutron Maestro Motion Sensor Switch, No Neutral Required, 250 Watts, Single-Pole, MS-OPS2-WH, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005WM3ALC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_s-AVDbA71VAS2

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-P-PKG1W-WH-Assistant/dp/B00JJY0S4G

Then you can have a remote! And if you care, the Lutron Caseta Bridge will allow you to control it with your phone, and it also integrates nicely with Home Assistant, if you want to go that route (look it up!). Otherwise, the dimmer and remote will work by themselves.

P.S. ♥️

You want to know something that drives me nuts?

I had to put in a bunch of wireless switches the other day. Probably around 20 or so. The only way you can buy them is individually packaged, so each time you're buying a 5" x 3" cardboard box that contains a plastic clamshell that contains the product. The mounting plates have to be bought separately in four-packs. This four-pack box contains four individual cardboard boxes, each of which contain paper instructions and the actual wall mounting box.

This is for three bits of plastic that, collectively, can fit in the palms of your hand.

That futurama oreo gag just isn't that funny to me anymore. Now it just makes me sigh.

Occupancy sensor (automatic light switch) in the basement, laundry, and walk-in closets. We got these Lutron models from Amazon for $20. Set them to 1 or 2 minutes for the closets, a little more for the laundry, and whatever works for you for the basement. Not having to reach for the light switch with your hands full is really convenient.

Ok so here is the breakdown of what I am doing and a couple more photos of the UI and videos of it in action.

Here is the configuration.yaml and ui-lovelace.yaml files on Github.

The main components that are currently being used on the front end are:

• TP-Link/Kasa WiFi switches/outlets
  
  • HS100, HS105, HS200, HS210, HS220
    
• TP-Link/Kasa WiFi bulbs
  
  • LB130, LB200, LB230
    
• Ecobee 4 with 4 remote sensors
  
• August Lock and Connect
  
• Automatic
  
• Harmony Hub
  
• Foscam cameras
  
  • C1, R2e, FI9928P, FI9900PR
    
• Abode security system
  
• Darksky forecast
  
• Speedtest
  
  I intend for the UI to be displayed on a few Fire HD8 tablets. One that will be centrally located on the main floor of the house. Two others will be used as nightstand clocks in the master bedroom.
  
  At a high level, all I have done is drawn the floor plan and layouts in Sketch and exported individual assets as pngs and position them within a picture-elements card mostly utilizing image and its state_image. I would basically just plop down the button or icon or whatever with style: "top":50% "left":50%. Once the asset was in the UI I would inspect it via Chrome's dev tools inspector and select the parent container that the style was being set on. I would then manually adjust the top and left percentages until I was satisfied. I would then update ui-lovelace.yaml to include the new values and double check them in the browser.
  
  For the buttons, currently the button background and button text are baked into the image but I intend to change that soon. Basically the indicator light is actually the same size as the whole button its just 95% of it is transparent.
  
  Here are some screen caps (since i just posted photos from my phone last night)
  
  Here are a couple videos of it in action:
  
  
• Flipping a couple switches
  
• Switching between tabs
  
  Thats all I can think of for now to answer the basics... I am more than happy to go deeper into anything anyone has any questions about

GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Heavy Duty 40 Amp Smart Switch, Indoor/Outdoor Rated 120-277V, Energy Monitoring, Range Extender, Zwave Hub Required, Works with SmartThings, Wink, Alexa, 14285, Metal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTCZZF0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8uihDb7SNW5NN

First thing anyone should buy is Deluxe Audio Strap. Can't stress that enough.

Vive-N-Chill is also really useful. It may seem silly, but it actually works really well. When I use any other headset for active gaming I really miss it.

Hyperskin covers for the controllers are awesome, comfortable, add grip and help with the occasional wall scrape. Though personally I ditched the headset one as I feel like it may trap in heat. Does look cool though. But the controller ones are a must have.

One of my absolute favorite VR accessories: 1" MMA floor tiles. Worth every penny. Way better than any thinner solutions and you can really kneel/roll around on the ground comfortably and stand for hours on it. Can be disassembled for transport and does not slide on carpet. They seem to be holding up to heavy duty long term use so well they should last for years through multiple generations of headsets.

My favorite face cushion for personal use is the stock foam one. Comfortable, breathes, and absorbs moisture and wicks it away. Nice to break out the fancy faux-leather ones for guests and stuff, but the original stock ones are the best for serious game sessions, at least in my opinion. Just hand wash it on occasion.

These guitar hangers are cheap and awesome for hanging controllers from when paired with some 10 foot usb micro cables for charging. Maybe not as cool looking as the special charging stand, but a whole bunch of pairs are great for different VR controllers if you have more than just a pair to deal with.

And, if/when you ever tire of the Base Stations' function to remotely power up/down automatically being fussy, slow or intermittent, then remote power outlets will make you happy. They make the base stations spring to life and sync in a few seconds compared to the slow blue tooth routine and power off when you want them off.

No voice required for this device..just hands!
https://www.amazon.com/Clapper-Sound-Activated-Switch-Each/dp/B0000CGKLR
j/k While you can get a box to plug your lamp into that is controlled by another box via zwave. You would need wifi at some point for your phone to connect.

https://www.amazon.com/Clapper-Sound-Activated-Switch-Quantity/dp/B0000CGKLR

https://bosscontrols.com/product/boss-220-smart-plug/

https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-White-V3-26-AL001/dp/B00MBIRF5W/

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Appliance-Direct-Wire-Appliances-12726/dp/B00YTCZZF0/

The Clapper, Wireless Sound Activated On/Off Light Switch, Clap Detection, Perfect For Kitchen/Bedroom/TV/Appliances, 120 V Wall Plug, Smart Home Technology, As Seen On TV Household Gift https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000CGKLR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-eFXBbZYAAW3J

The best is to get 3 of those.

Yeah this switch and this remote should work together.

Also probably want this mount

https://www.amazon.com/Caseta-Wireless-Lighting-Ceiling-PD-6WCL-WH/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=pd_sim_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00KLAXFQA&pd_rd_r=4R6Z7QBRPGDWM80H1SES&pd_rd_w=dOmWU&pd_rd_wg=2jlSf&psc=1&refRID=4R6Z7QBRPGDWM80H1SES

These don't require a neutral.

If you use only small ones this shit will help you sleep like a baby:

​

https://www.amazon.com/Century-Indoor-24-Hour-Mechanical-Outlet/dp/B01LPSGBZS/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=timer+plug&qid=1567112084&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzQzM5MUZBT0dUVTVZJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTMxMzQzM0JWQ1lMSFBLNkRQNCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTQwODA5MklVRkQwQUxGMTdZWSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

These become a LOT more functional if you spring for the $25 Hue Dimmer switch for each room. Gives you on/off/dimmer plus in the app you can set it up so you can cycle through 5 different scenes as you keep pressing the ON button. You can also add automations (like color changing) by holding ON, etc...

Switches dock in the plate with a magnet so you can remove it and leave it on your nightstand or coffee table for easy control. Also, since it pairs directly with the Hue hub, it's all local control.

It's really nice to be able to just tap the control to pick a scene or dim the lights without having to talk to Google or Siri. These suckers made an almost regrettably expensive lighting purchase much more enjoyable and usable for everyone.

GE switches with add-ons can be 3+ way and dimmable. The 'addons' inherit the master switch's abilities.

Z wave, zigbee, or wifi versions all available.

Product page: GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Smart Dimmer Switch, Full Dimming, In-Wall, Incl. White and Lt. Almond Paddles, Repeater/Range Extender, Zwave Hub Required, Works with SmartThings, Wink, Alexa, 14294 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUCZA1C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7hCkDbEVYC4R9

Century Indoor 24-Hour Mechanical Outlet Timer, 3 Prong, 2-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LPSGBZS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

(Pack of 6) Barrina LED T5 Integrated Single Fixture, 4FT, 2200lm, 6500K (Super Bright White), 20W, Utility Shop Light, Ceiling and Under Cabinet Light, Corded electric with built-in ON/OFF switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HBT3BVM?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Hgrope 5W LED Grow Light Desk Lamp Clamp Flexible Neck for Hydroponic and Indoor Plants https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CVKWZH3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7ZEaBbZSW8ASJ


this last one isn't the exact red/blue lights i have but it looks better than mine hahaha

Amazon has GE Z-wave 14291 Switches for $29.33

https://smile.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/

You'll need one dimmer switch, and a second "slave" switch. GE has a good pair [here] (https://www.amazon.com/GE-45613-Wireless-Lighting-Three-Way/dp/B0013V58K2/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1487104987&sr=1-6&keywords=GE+zwave+switch).

Or [here] (https://www.amazon.com/GE-Smart-Dimmer-Z-Wave-14294/dp/B01MUCZA1C/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1487104987&sr=1-5&keywords=GE+zwave+switch) and [here] (https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-Lighting-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487105148&sr=8-1&keywords=ge+zwave+switch+add+on) separately.

Alexa/Google Home are compatible with the bridge, not the bulbs, meaning any bulb that works with the bridge works with them. When Ikea advertises compatibility they mean for their bridge, so don't use that as a guide.

Hue bulbs are built on a standard called ZigBee Light Link (ZLL), so are the Ikea bulbs. As long as you buy bulbs that faithfully implement the standard you should be okay (Ikea bulbs might need a firmware update from their bridge to do this). If the bulb supports dimming/color temperature via ZLL then the Hue Bridge will be able to control them, and by extension Google Home.

All this said, if you're doing your whole house, have you considered smarthome light switches? Something like https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MUCZA1C/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1510413289&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=zwave+dimmer .

They work just like a normal light switch you can press to turn on/off/dim but add a SmartThings/Wink hub and you can control them via Google Home/Alexa and have all the automated routines/etc you get via Hue. For multi-bulb fixtures I use those switches, plus Philips Warm Glow LED bulbs, which change colour temperature as they dim. The result is full smart home control, good colour temperatures, regular wall switches so I don't have to use my voice all the time, and I can buy cheap non-smart bulbs.

Also, be aware that one Hue bridge is limited to 50 bulbs and 7 dimmer switches. That's the other reason I went for wall switches, I would need multiple bridges and then I couldn't have one button to turn off the whole house.

The best thing for you, imo, since you’ve already invested a lot in hue is to get the little hue dimmer remotes. You’d use the remotes instead of the physical switches and you’d lock the switches with a switch lock/guard.

Philips 473371 Hue Dimmer Switch Smart Remote (Installation-Free, Exclusive for Philips Hue Lights), White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076MGKTGS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dpaSAbSV6SY55

In the future, as was already said, if you can use a smart switch then it would almost always be preferred to use a smart switch.


Edit:keep in mind that the smart switch from GE is zwave and requires a zwave hub like smartthings.

If you were to get into a hub then that opens up a while world of other possibilities but I think that might be beyond your scope of what you want.

You could use The Clapper and set your computer to control it using clapping sounds. [/not serious]

They solved this in the 80s: https://www.amazon.com/Clapper-Sound-Activated-Switch-Each/dp/B0000CGKLR

I think you should go 80s retro, and activate it with one of these.

I have an Ecobee4 thermostat (although Alexa doesn’t work as well for me as I hoped) w/ Ecobee remote sensors mounted in every room. Not only is this great for managing the temp in the house overall, but now I can include temp changes in my automations and geo-fencing.

In addition, although I find them a bit slow to respond when using them as room entry motion sensors, the Ecobee remote sensors are great for automatically turning off the lights when a room is no longer occupied.

I also recently added some non-HomeKit “smarter” switches in my bathroom and laundry room. In the laundry room, I put a simple Lutron (not Caseta) motion sensor switch to auto turn the light on/off when someone comes/goes from the laundry room. Works fantastically, it’s simple, and not too expensive.

In my bathroom, I added three new Lutron (not Caseta) switches.

• 1 is a dimmer w/ motion sensor... I use it for the ceiling fixture to come on automatically at 50% brightness (if the room is dark enough). It also turns the light off automatically.
  
  
• 1 is a fan controller with a built-in timer. This thing is great. I set it to a 30-minute default countdown when turned on. The time can be adjusted from 5-60 minutes. Double tapping the fan switch turns it on until someone turns it off.
  
  
• 1 is a plain switch to control the vanity mirror light bar. Manual on/off... that’s it.
  
  The first two of those switches are far more programmable than I thought... reading the instructions really paid off! :)
  
  The Lutron Claro wall plates are really great as well. They are very clean, simple, and modern looking... and their 2-part design makes it really easy to adjust all your switches for a precision installation (i.e. flush and straight).
  
  In my bedroom, my bedside lamps are controlled by 1 Lutron Caseta lamp dimmer w/ remote. I use the same style Caseta lamp dimmer for a few other standalone lamps... and even used one to automate (just on/off) my outside LED holiday lights last winter (the dimmability of which was fantastic, as they are normally way too bright).
  
  In conclusion, before spending a bunch of money, my advice would be to think carefully about how you/others use certain rooms and if a motion detection switch would suffice or if a more complex automation control is needed. Also... do the math. As others have pointed out, one alternative may be way more cost effective over another when you factor in the number of bulbs and/or switches involved.
  
  One last thing... I am renting a room to a guy who's on a totally different schedule than me and as such, I never knew if he was in his room sleeping or out of the house elsewhere. So... since I had previously added him to my HomeKit household... I use a combination of geofencing with his phone, and the Ecobee motion sensor in his room, to switch on/off a particular lamp when he comes & goes. That way... it's easy for me to know if I need to be quiet, or if I can rock out with my socks out.
  
  *EDIT: Added a bunch of links and more...

You need a dry-contact z-wave switch like one of these:

• https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI/
  
• https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Z-Wave-Isolated-Contact-Fixture/dp/B00ER6MH22/
  
  The switches would be powered at 110V AC, with the 24V wiring connected to the dry/isolated contact side.

You could go even simpler by plugging your fish tank pump into a programmable electric timer like this one (Amazon, $13). You won't have the ability to water remotely, but how often do you need to water your trees outside of a regular watering schedule?

Non affiliate link: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Appliance-Required-SmartThings-14285/dp/B00YTCZZF0/. Spam out.

VIVOSUN 48"x24"x60" Mylar Hydroponic Grow Tent with Observation Window and Floor Tray for Indoor Plant Growing 2'x4' https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DXYMQ9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dx13BbGGT8164

VIPARSPECTRA Reflector-Series 300W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum for Indoor Plants Veg and Flower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B4GQ6MO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Hz13BbPVVN2TK

This light is good for 2 plants but you’ll eventually want to add a second for your tent. You definitely can’t fill the tent with just this light, but it’ll get you started.

iPower 2-Pack 1/8 Inch 8-Feet Long Adjustable Heavy Duty Rope Clip Hanger, Reinforced Metal Internal Gears,150lb Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018WIOEDA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wA13Bb58ZJ5GD

Century 7 Day Heavy Duty Digital Programmable Timer - Dual Outlet (Indoor) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVF16JG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XA13Bb9NQJDG1

Comfort Zone CZ6C 6-Inch 2-Speed Clip-On Fan (White, 2 Fans) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JLUZSPC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.E13Bb05JK7B1

247Garden 5-Pack 3 Gallon Grow Bags/Aeration Fabric Pots w/Handles (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013JM3JAI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VG13Bb7MGJS2R

https://www.oregonsonly.com/samples/

These are great nutrients and basically foolproof. This free sample kit will get you through 4 plants full grows. I love these nutrients and even now use them in a reservoir (which people claim you can’t do but works great).

Dr.meter 0.1pH PH002 High Accuracy pH Meter/pH Pen Tester with ATC LCD 0-14 pH Measurement Range (PH002 pH Meter for Water) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PU0W35K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fI13BbNRES1BK

That will get you started on your first grow or two. I recommend auto blue mystic from nirvana for your first run. They are very low smell while growing so you can get by without a carbon filter. They’re autos so you can leave the light on 24/7, and they finish fast. Also turns out a great finished product.

https://www.nirvanashop.com/marijuana-seeds/815-blue-mystic-autoflower.html

Less than $40 for 5 seeds and very discrete shipping.

When you have a bit more $ you can add on additional items. Eventually you’ll want to upgrade to PFD sun boards or quantum boards, but you’ll probably want to get a fan and filter first:

6" Inline Fan - 395 CFM Exhaust Duct Fan, Built-In Speed Controller, ETL Listed, Pre-Wired 6 FT Grounded Cord - Great Use In Grow Tent With Carbon Filters, Light Fixtures, Intake. Fits 6 Inch Ducts. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L0D0UEQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TM13Bb5170NC1

Activated Charcoal Carbon Filter 6" x 16", Up to 400 CFM, Premium Grow Tent Odor Scrubber, 1.8" Extra Thick Layer of Top Grade Activated Australian Virgin Charcoal-Great for Hydroponics and Growing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0VN4I5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qN13BbEH9AG9W

Maybe you can upgrade to a 2x4 tray with reservoir so you can automate feeding.

If you don’t want autoflowers you can just do 12/12 from seed for faster harvest. https://www.royalqueenseeds.com/blog-how-to-grow-cannabis-from-seed-under-12-12-lighting-n330

But I really recommend doing the auto blue mystic for your first round or two.

So it’s a double hit with keeping the wife happy.

First, she won’t want you to replace everything you have. That would just be wasteful spending.

To make things easier to start, I would suggest the connected bulb remote from Lutron. If set up correctly you would have on/off as well as dimming control of your hue lights, while they ecstatically keep things looking tidy. (They fit in standard decora wallplates which should do the trick.

Now my general rule of thumb is to prevent “dumb” accessories. Something that can easily lose its power and no longer respond. The only hue light in my house vulnerable to this is the 2 A19 bulbs above my stove. I just always leave the stove light on now as the connected bulb remote is nearby, plus it controls under cabinet hue light strips (thus double benefit).

For long term happy wife / happy life (following not just rule 2, but rule 1: don’t waste money) I would suggest the Lutron Caséta line. They can be configured in 2 pole, 3 pole, and 4 pole (takes creativity). They offer dimming & on/off switches. They also offer Serena shades which use the same hub, and have the same size of remote.

I have friends who say that decora sizing doesn’t matter, but it’s once you add on to your setup with outlet switches, blind control, lights, fans, spotify, etc… that having everything on a single wallplate is super nice.

On a final note. To change colours, I drive via Siri allot. Most of my scenes would have a colour, but if not then a simple “set the kitchen to red” will suffice.

Fin.
edit: link

Here’s a set of two dimmer switches, hub and remotes. No neutral wire required for these so couldn’t be easier to fit

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-P-BDG-PKG2W-Assistant/dp/B01M3XJUAD/ref=sr_1_7?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1535840828&sr=1-7&keywords=lutron+caseta

And here’s just the hub and a basic switch. You do need a neutral for the switch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XPW67ZM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017LRCG38/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It’s not cheap to get started for sure (mainly due to that bridge) but Caseta, apart from HomeBridge, has been my most solid HomeKit device. The bridge never requires a restart in my experience. I honestly wish I hadn’t invested so much in Hue before I used this.

Alternative, the TP-Link Switch is compatible with Home/Assistant, as are their Plugs and LED Bulbs. Note that there is no IFTTT support as of yet.

I have two Smart Bulbs and a Mini Plug in my living room right now. App-wise, they're controlled with Kasa on my phone and a tablet. I can turn on/off, set schedules, dim (except Plug), etc... and do everything but schedules with my Google Home.

The Switch is part of the same family of products, same core functionality across the board.

Not sure how 2 Switches controlling the same lights would work... but might be worth a shot. (edit: see posts below)

I can say, "Hey Google, turn off the lights.", or call out a specific lamp. The Plug is treated separate (attached to bias lighting behind my TV). It doesn't trigger on "lights" calls. I wonder if Switches are yet another category.

With the possibility of IFTTT support, I hope to get movie/tv show time going with a single command, which would dim/kill the Bulbs and kick on the Plug.

Aside from the above, I have my Bulbs set to turn on when I get up for work weekdays. I'm going to get another, color changing one for my bedside, put that on a circadian schedule (option in Kasa).

My venture in to this started off with a Belkin WeMo Mini, but it would not connect to my hidden network (should not be the case with latest fw). My case went all the way to an engineer but after testing a TP-Link Smart Plug, which worked flawlessly and imo, had a much easier setup, I tried the bulbs and now I'm all in with them. I returned my Belkin products but was able to discuss my issues with an engineer we had a solid conversation. Kudos to them.

Hope some of this helps!

A common electric timer outlet will do, like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Century-Indoor-24-Hour-Mechanical-Outlet/dp/B01LPSGBZS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?crid=P70J7N4FPNRS&keywords=electric+timer+outlet&qid=1554977390&s=gateway&sprefix=electric+tiner&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

Buy these three things below to get you through the winter (or all year)! I've used these for a few months now on a 16-hour timer and all my cacti and succulents have thrived.

• Lights: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079BD5CG7/
  
• Timer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LPSGBZS/
  
• Mounting Tape: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NP1OBC/
  
  You could quickly and easily install these on your shelves. The only concern I would have is the angle of the shelves. The sides of the plants on the back of the shelves would get more direct light, so just be sure to rotate your plants every week.
  
  p..s that is a great looking setup!

Replace the timer switch with a Z-Wave switch like this one: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Extender-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R

Then you can set up a timer in the Smart Lighting app so that whenever that switch if physically pressed, it will stay on for a certain amount of time.

Set up a sensor that monitors humidity like this one: https://www.amazon.com/ZOOZ-Z-Wave-Sensor-Temperature-Humidity/dp/B01AKSO80O

You'll also create a separate automation that activates the fan when that sensor reads above a certain humidity, and turns off when the humidity drops back down. That one is a little more complicated to setup, but not impossible.

The Hue dimmer: https://www.amazon.com/Philips-Hue-Dimmer-Installation-Free-Exclusively/dp/B076MGKTGS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1539172171&sr=8-2&keywords=hue+dimmer

I have this Hue switch mounted right next to my normal light switch (renting).

Still, why spend $25 when you can spend hours designing and printing something instead?? (Because it's fun is why)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076MGKTGS/

Here?

1985 has you covered

​

https://smile.amazon.com/Clapper-Activated-Detection-Appliances-Technology/dp/B0000CGKLR/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1542398066&sr=8-2&keywords=The+Clapper

You could use cell phones and then have all-around-the-world range. Just put the receiving cell phone on SpeakerPhone and connect the light to The Clapper (LINK). Now you clap at the sending cellphone, the receiving cellphone plays this clap, and The Clapper turns on your light. Easy.

1. I custom ordered blinds from Home Depot because I have floor to ceiling windows. I ended up not being happy with them. I ordered from a local window place and they made me custom ones that were a lot nicer, cheaper, and included installation. The cheaper sounding option isn't always.
   
   
2. I made the following electronic wiring upgrades myself (really easy to do):
   
   USB ports for friends who come over and want to charge their phones: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IAZIU5Y?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
   
   Timer for the shower fan so you don't always leave it on: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007BJULYS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00
   
   Motion activated lights everywhere, esp the closets: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005WM3ALC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00
   
   Edit: formatting

I have z-wave GE wall switches that work fine. You can usually find something in the amazon reviews that will indicate what success (or lack of it) other people have had. Lurking this sub is another good way to see what works for others.

As sauky said, check the smartthings list on the st website

The GE switches and dimmers were fussy getting them "paired" with the hub. But I have probably five different brands of stuff and none of it was immune to pairing troubles. I would just make sure whatever you get has favorable reviews.

I use this dimmer and the matching switches:
Leviton Dimmer

I've also heard good things about the GE dimmer:
GE Dimmer

I'd say it really comes down to personal taste in the switch appearance between those.

lottery tickets, remote control plugs, DropStop seat gap filler, glass tupperware set, squatty potty, Code Names (or any board game), Yeti colster, hydroflask bottle, packit freezable cooler, a set ofoutdoor globe lights, gift wrap organizer

I have a similar situation. I'm in a house built in 1955 and in the process of replacing switches with a Lutron setup.

One thing I wanted to be clear on is what you mention about a lack of neutral wires. From my understanding (and granted, I'm not an electrician, but have done my fair share of wiring jobs around the house), even houses from the 50s would have neutral wires. I'm wondering if you've confused ground wires with neutral wires. Neutrals are usually white wires while grounds are usually green or bare copper. Again, I know this as I'm in the exact situation. My house has no ground wires in most locations, but neutrals are everywhere as expected.

I only have one switch in the house the controls an outlet, but here's now I tackled it.

• First, I removed the switch and coupled the wires together to make the outlet constantly powered.
  
• Next, I got a Lutron lamp controller (https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Caseta-Wireless-Dimmer-300-watt/dp/B00JJY1QG0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484801392&sr=8-1&keywords=lutron+caseta+lamp) and used this for the lamps in the outlet.
  
• Finally, I got this (https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-PICO-WBX-ADAPT-Pico-Wallplate-Bracket/dp/B00JZRAFEA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484801427&sr=8-1&keywords=caseta+pico+wall+mounting) to mount the Pico remote for the lamp controller in the same box the original switch used to be in.
  
  This has actually worked out great, as it means we have an extra outlet in the living room for plugging in things like our laptops, but we still have a switch in the wall for the lamps.

For sure, but for someone to be as good as he is at coaching the defense, I personally think he has to understand a lot about offense, that is just some random guy on the internets gut feeling though. Plus smart coaches/leaders tend to surround themselves with people smarter then them in things they lack depth in. Personally I would love someone with his intensity leading the whole team instead of the guy that invested in The Clapper

Problem solved ;)

If I was not a broke ass college student I would honestly send you one.
Happy Birthday

replace your light switch with this

On a budget, I would stay well clear of things like Hue- they are very expensive to scale up because they rely on each bulb being "smart", and this also means they are limited in terms of which light fittings you can use in the future.

Personally i've gone for a self-build Z-Wave option, preferring to embed z-wave dimmers in my walls (behind the light switch) and make my own controller from a raspberry pi + some software called "Domoticz". This means an initial outlay of about $70 for the pi+Zwave adaptor, and then a cost of $40 per room after that regardless of how many bulbs you need. A hue solution would be 3-4x the cost.

The downside (or upside depending on your POV!) is that you need to build this yourself - setup your own alexa bridge, install + configure domoticz, and be willing to handle the electrical connections to your switches. It's all really easy though if you have the desire to get stuck in (there are lots of youtube tutorials). You can save a lot of $$ though particularly if you are in the US where the parts are generally cheaper than the UK (Where I am), and your setup will be much more configurable than any off the shelf solution. You can also add more obscure devices easily to a domoticz setup. I have my security cameras hooked in for example and setup so that a relevant light will turn on when the motion sensing is triggered between certain hours, and my wifi kettle connected so I can ask alexa to turn the kettle on. It's rather fun and addictive once you get started :)

As a starting point here are a few links that may help:

• Razberry - the Z-wave adaptor for the pi - http://razberry.z-wave.me/
  
• Domoticz - home automation software (free) - https://www.domoticz.com/
  
• Alexa-Domoticz bridget - https://github.com/madgeni/alexa_domo
  
• Fibario dimmers (what I use) - http://www.vesternet.com/z-wave-fibaro-universal-dimmer-2-250w
  
• GE Dimmers (fine for US, not usable for me in the UK) https://www.amazon.com/GE-Dimmer-Z-Wave-12724-Amazon/dp/B006LQFHN2
  
  

The best I've been able to find is the Aeon Labs Aeotec Z-Wave Multi-Sensor (DSB05-ZWUS). Note: not the newer models, for which the motion sensor doesn't work outdoor. You'll also need a zwave switch to control the lights (I use a GE 12724).

With a zwave dimmer switch, a zwave motion sensor, and a normal outdoor light fixture, I've set mine up to turn on the lights at 30% brightness at sunset, and off at sunrise. When motion is detected and the lights are already on, I have the brightness increase to 100% for 10 minutes, then back to 30%.

The Aeon sensor is definitely not ideal. I looked far and wide for a better outdoor motion sensor but wasn't able to find one. Others have suggested using a traditional outdoor light that has a motion sensor built in and detect the load increase to trigger an event. I decided not to go that route.

That particular box is a low/high voltage box. The left side is open for low voltage wiring and the right side is for high voltage wiring (hence why it is enclosed. Mr_Norwall is correct... it is probably just a control line for an ignition system in the fireplace 'controller'. The green would be the ground (so it doesn't float) and the red/white would be the line to start the fireplace.


Another solution you might want to check out is an in-wall module or a dry-contact relay. Such examples are:

https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478881790&sr=8-1&keywords=z-wave+dry+contact

https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW097-Contact/dp/B0155HSUUY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1478881790&sr=8-2&keywords=z-wave+dry+contact

https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Z-Wave-Isolated-Contact-Fixture/dp/B00ER6MH22/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1478881790&sr=8-4&keywords=z-wave+dry+contact


Some dry contact modules will still require 120v to be added though. The Aeon Labs, for instance, just runs on a coin cell I think.

edit: adding product links

I have one setup, really hasn't been a problem. The Fireplace is fairly new and has it's own built in safety measures. Worst case scenario you end up with a situation similar to you turning it on via the wall switch and leaving without turning it off, aka you forgot. A properly functioning gas fireplace shouldn't be an inherent safety risk on its own. I've never had it accidentally turn itself on and I monitor what devices are on when nobody is home in the house. Would be trivial to configure a notification to be sent to your phone whenever it is on and you are not home.



I used this Zwave dry contact switch but it doesn't look like it's available anymore. It is hidden underneath the fireplace, but you could get one that replaces the switch in the wall.



I don't really automate anything with it except triggering it to turn off when we leave or turn off with a Bedtime switch. I've been kicking around the idea of a timer, so only letting it run for say 2 hours before shutting itself off. You can check out the whole setup here

I bought something like this.
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1486522222&sr=8-2&keywords=remote+wall+outlet
The idea being that the raspberry pi can trigger the specific remote button and then activate the outlet. The nice thing about this solution is you don't have to worry about switching 120 or 240 V directly with a relay.

Lutron makes their caseta wireless switches that come with the pico remote, or you can buy them separate. You can even mount the remote in a switch box to make it look like a real second switch.

The switch and remote work by themselves without a hub, but a hub can be added later for more control.

Technically it's not z wave, it's lutron clear connect, but it works with the wink hub, or you can buy the lutron smart bridge, and then get it to work with Vera or smartthings.

Yep. I have a Luton Maestro Caseta with the pico remote and it let me adjust the dimming range to where it goes smoothly to almost completely off. That's with Cree bulbs.

Edit: I just checked and mine is actually a Caseta, not a Maestro. Here's the link.

Lutron Caseta... replaces traditional switch, supports standard light bulbs.

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-600-watt-150-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481198595&sr=8-1&keywords=caseta+lutron

GE Z-Wave switches. Use their add-on switch combined with one of their regular z-wave switches. (or zigbee or bluetooth it would seem, I am just a fan of bluetooth so that's what I used)

I just did one of my lights that was controlled by two switches with this. The main switch goes where there's power to the switch (and you'll need to make sure you have a neutral wire there) and then your existing traveler wires should be able to be used to connect the other switches.

I also saw these Zooz switches which looked interesting and claim to work with existing three way switches but I have no experience with them. I went with the GE switches because I've used them for regular switches in the past and have been very happy with them.

Here's a z-wave switch to control the heater. Check out the reviews for how people use it. I happened to stumble on this giant switch the other day.

GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting and Appliance Control, 40 Amp, Large Load, Direct-Wire, Indoor/Outdoor, For Pool Pumps, Hot Water Heaters, Landscape Lighting, and Other Large Appliances, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12726

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTCZZF0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KccUzbDE8D5R2

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-LZL-4B-WH-L01-Connected-Bulb-Remote/dp/B014STZASK

These are awesome. You just pair these to the hub and the bulbs you want to control, and wire nut the lights to be hot 24/7. These fit in a regular decora faceplate; its the best solution I've found so far that solves the smart bulb/dumb switch issue. Plus, these match with Lutron Caseta's smart switch line for lights that aren't hue.

Yep, and you can pair a pico to it for the other side. Note you don’t need a hub if you just want the switch and pico to work together. The hub will give you smart phone control

Pico: https://www.amazon.ca/Lutron-PJ2-2B-GWH-L01-Remote-Control-White/dp/B00KLAXOE8/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CJCTRVTZNFWTTQV2RX4M

Switch
https://www.amazon.ca/Lutron-Caseta-Wireless-Lighting-PD-6ANS-WH/dp/B017LRCG38/ref=pd_bxgy_60_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=MZPGBFTHYAFQ97YWPJF9

Lutron Casetta in wall switches and a smart Bridge would do what you need.

I use the Sylvania Zigbee switch, but it doesn't fit in a deco, but rather on top of.

I second the TP Link products. No hub required. Here's their switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_BrnjzbA8ZYP23

Install an automatic toilet flusher and also a smart light switch controlling the lights in your washroom. You could program your light to blink on and off once a day which will trigger the toilets photo sensor to automatically flush. You might have to find an automatic flusher with an adjustable sensor. I would set it to most sensitive for this configuration.

​

https://www.amazon.ca/Touchless-Dual-Flush-Converter-Replacement-TECHO/dp/B01DO7ABHW/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=automatic+toilet+flush&qid=1573580908&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExTTRITVgwNEJBR0tJJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDMxNzY5M0IySDdaUjhUTzFXVSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjEwMDUzMksyNDgwQkFQTEZMWiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

​

https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Required-Requires-Assistant-HS200/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=smart+switch&qid=1573581759&sr=8-5

As far as I know there's no smart bulb that hits anywhere near 1500 lumens. I'd recommend keeping her current bulbs (or picking up some 1500 lm/5000k LED bulbs) and getting smart switches/dimmers.

So you would realistically do smart switches instead of having smart bulbs. The only reason I would see to use smart bulbs is because you don't own the property or because you want the ability to change colors of a color lightbulb.

> Do smart switches always keep the smart bulbs powered?

It depends on what you mean by smart switches. You would realistically just use a smart switch like this. The light switch itself would always have power no matter if you turn the light on or off (unless you kill the breaker), so you could control it no matter the state of the light.

Your best bet if you want to continue using the smart bulbs, and not smart switches, is by buying the Philips Hue Dimmer switches. You would still need the power for the light to be on (meaning don't touch it/block it off if needed). They would still be at the mercy of people using the light switch itself.

But, unless you rent or need color control, it doesn't make sense to keep dropping money on this path.

Good morning /u/EFaden and congrats on the new house!

I'm not sure what HUB you have but there are a couple options if you want to keep the standard in-wall switch, but use scenes to automate things.

Disclaimer: I'm associated with Inovelli, so please keep that in mind. However, I'll lay out all the options that I know of since the scene switches are a passion of mine since they can do so much

On that note, there's a few brands that I'm aware of that have the scene functionality built into a normal in-wall switch and they are: GE, ZWP, HomeSeer, and ourselves.

GE, I believe has a double tap feature in their new Z-Wave Plus switches, but I just have their old ones in my house (which have been great) so I can't confirm, but I've seen posts about it.

HomeSeer was actually one of the first, if not the first companies to come out with this and I personally have one of their switches in my house as well and it's been rock solid. You can add up to I believe 10 scenes to it by single/double/triple/4x/5x tapping the switch (top and bottom). There's a specific device handler for it if you're on SmartThings.

ZWP, I don't really know much about, I just saw they had a scene switch too.

As for Inovelli, we're really proud of the work our guys put into the firmware this time and I'll highlight some of the features below:

• Ability to add 10-12 scenes (10 for Dimmer and 12 for On/Off) based on taps or holds
  
  
• Ability to disable the internal relay - this is good for people who use smart bulbs on their loads so that now when the switch is used, rather than cutting power to the smart bulb, the switch will instead send a scene command to the HUB to turn the light on (or if you have a Z-Wave bulb, it can be directly associated with the bulb and there will be no need for a command to be sent to the HUB). I personally use this feature in my daughter's room bc she has a Hue light setup on it and depending on the number of taps, the bulb will turn a different color
  
  
• For dimmers, you can now set the default brightness based on the time of day. An example would be at night time if you don't want to blind yourself in the bathroom, you can set it so that the dimmer will only dim to 10% between the hours of 10pm and 6am. This can be set to happen locally (manual pressing) or remotely
  
  
• Also for Dimmers, you can change the speed at which the switch turns on. Some people like a slow dim, some people like a fast dim, while others like an, "instant on" effect to mimic an On/Off switch
  
  
• Change the minimum dimming level - this is great for if you have an LED bulb that starts flickering at the low setting
  
  
• Finally, you do not have to have an auxiliary switch in a 3-Way setting. Simply wire this up to your existing, "dumb" switch and it will work as a normal 3-Way switch
  
  As I said above, not sure what HUB you have, but we wrote device handlers for SmartThings and Drivers for Hubitat, but if you don't have those, the settings above can all be done via parameters (except for the dimming based on time of day, let me check with our VP of Tech)
  
  Anyway, I hope that helped a bit. You can't go wrong with any of those brands. They're all unique in their own way and if you're thinking about Z-Wave, then they are some very reputable brands.
  
  Have a great day and if you have any questions, feel free to reach out!
  
  Eric
  
  Founder | Inovelli
  
  

  
  <br />
  Links:<br />
  <br />
  GE: <br />
  <br />

• On/Off https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1AHC3R
  
• Dimmer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUCZA1C
  
  HomeSeer: (they have quite a few, so just type in, "HomeSeer Z-Wave Plus Switch" and they should all come up. I'm going to put the couple I know work with ST)
  
  
• On/Off https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DFSAAJ4
  
• Dimmer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DFRWZNE
  
  ZWP:
  
  
• Dimmer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0725SZMTG
  
  Inovelli
  
  
• On/Off https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N235ROS
  
  
• Dimmer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NAUCQ18

Not op but maybe something like this?

TP-Link Smart Wi-Fi Light Switch, No Hub Required, Single Pole, Control Your Fixtures From Anywhere, Works with Amazon Alexa (HS200) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WWSHyb1RHJ7SE

If you use an Alexa-Enabled device, Google Assistant or Apple HomeKit you can simply talk to the device or use the app to control lighting in addition to a traditional switch.

For example:

Kasa Smart Wi-Fi Light Switch by TP-Link - Control Lighting from Anywhere, Easy In-Wall Installation (Single-Pole Only), No Hub Required, Works With Alexa and Google Assistant (HS200) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bC1VBbAZ0T8FT

Yeah, you can do that! I've become a big fan of Zooz switches [Amazon]. The linked one there is the ZEN26, which is for on/off switches (as opposed to dimmers). An important note: Zooz switches are Z-wave, meaning they need a hub (like SmartThings or HomeSeer) to control via Google home.

If you don't want to get a hub, there are plenty of other options available. TP-Link makes some great switches, and their app is wonderful. You just set up the switches, then connect your TP-Link account to your Google account, and then all of your switches can be controlled from the Google Home app or your Google home mini.

The process of rewiring the switches is quite simple, and there are plenty of video resources available. But, as always, have a professional do it if you're not confident.

Reply back here if you have other questions, I'd be happy to try and help!

I use this for my ceiling fan: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Fixtures-Anywhere-HS200/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1500032800&sr=8-3&keywords=smart+switch but you're also going to need a smart things hub (or any other compatible hub) unfortunately google home can't act as the hub for all the smarthome stuff.
Smart things : https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Hub-2nd-Generation/dp/B010NZV0GE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500032886&sr=8-1&keywords=smart+things

With those two I can just say "Hey google turn on the fan"

EDIT: it appears that switch just uses wifi now and not zwave, eliminating the need for the hub

You'd need a pi W, power supply for the pi, box, and then dimmer hardware you could control from the pi ( https://www.amazon.com/Dimmer-Module-Controller-Arduino-Raspberry/dp/B06Y1GVG26 these guys work fine)

there are also prebuilt home automation compatible dimmers that you could install, which can be run from a web interface or smartphone. ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZV35QU ) these guys run ~$25-30

https://www.amazon.com/Century-Indoor-24-Hour-Mechanical-Outlet/dp/B01LPSGBZS

I mean, I'm only half-joking. That's what the plug-and-play option looks like.

I don't get the safety logic here, though. You're either confident leaving a printer unattended or you're not. You want to print through the night, but cut the power at a certain time? They're not Gremlins, it's okay to print after midnight.

Sure! Here is a dual bar light type and a circle type. Here's also a more low profile type you can clamp to the shelf above: top down light.. With any of these, for ease of use I recommend getting an outlet timer, takes a lot of the hassle/worry out of making sure your babies get enough sun: outlet timer. Hope this helps!

I use the GE smart switches with a smart things hub.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ACMvCb57QX7S0

I'd recommend going with a SmartThings hub. The Echo can easily interface with it, and you can control it from both your iPhones and Apple Watch (I find the utility of controlling things from my Mac to be pretty low, and so don't really bother -- but I'll mention one possible solution below).

Here's what I recommend:

1. Get and install a SmartThings Hub along with the iOS and watchOS apps (if you install SmartThings Classic, your phone can send and install the watchOS app to your watch through the Watch app).
   
2. There is a SmartApp for SmartThings you can install to connect to and control your MyQ garage door
   
3. Ring already works with SmartThings, so nothing to really do here.
   
4. For the lighting, I recommend installing smart switches, replacing your existing light switches for the lights in question. I like the GE switches myself.
   
5. If you really want to be able to control everything from your Mac(s), install and configure HomeBridge. This bit of software will emulate Apple HomeKit for the devices connected to your SmartThings Hub. Then you can simply use the Home app built into macOS 10.14 to connect to and organize your devices for use on your Macs, iPad, iPhone, and Apple Watch.
   
   HTH!

Hey /u/Mercury357 !

Sorry I can't offer much advice when it comes to Inovelli or Zooz, but I'm sure you'll get a great response from some of the other members here.

I can however, relay that the GE Switches are on sale right now on Amazon for $30.99 and the GE Dimmers are on sale for $32.99

Our Add-On switches work great for 3 and 4-way setups as well, those run $19.50 right now

If you have any questions about GE product, feel free to ask. :)

I use Smartthings and really like it. You can find the hubs for less than $80 if patient and looking around. Ya that may seam like a lot but using the switch you picked out at $80 x 3 for a cost of $240 while Smarthings plus either these Leviton or these [GE] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUCZA1C/ref=psdc_507840_t4_B01N4F487U) will end up being cheaper if you buy 3 or more. Z-wave is designed for exactly this, home automation stuff so I really prefer to use that over WiFi devices.

I don't have any switches at the moment, only Hue but I will be getting some eventually. For a Hub you have two real options if you are really new and not super techy, Wink and SmartThings. Both have different strengths. I've never used Wink but that seams to be a bit more user friendly, however Smartthings is by no means difficult and it has a very helpful community and is more customization. Someone will probably take issue with this but I liken Wink to IOS (cleaner UI, a bit smoother, just works) and Smartthings to Android (much more custimizable)

Smart switches are the best replacement because it leaves everything the way every other house is built, but adds smart functionality. If you install smart bulbs, they are controlled from two different sources - the light switch, and your phone. Want to turn the light on but someone flipped the switch? You must get up to manually flip the switch, then control the light bulb.

Smart bulbs are only good if you live in an apartment complex, need RGB bulbs, or want to change color temperature. Overall, the smart switch is the best thing to use because it only adds functionality, not take any away. I personally use a technology called Z-Wave which creates a strong mesh network in your house. Z-Wave doesn't rely on internet, which means if your internet goes down they continue to function. A large portion of WiFi devices require you to have internet as well, which is a huge downfall of home automation relying on WiFi.

I have a couple of these, a Vision Relay that i've installed to keep my original switches, and a few other z-wave outlets around.

I'm using the Cree 60W Equivalent Soft White bulbs in my overhead kitchen lights that have these GE dimmers. I have no buzz at all.

These ge switches/dimmers are awesome and will work directly with smart Things, so no need for stupid additional controllers: https://www.amazon.com/New-Model-Wireless-Lighting-Wall/dp/B01MUCZA1C

With smart zwave switches you can use regular LEDs or bulbs for all of your lights.

I went with these GE dimmers

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUCZA1C/

stick a pico remote to the wall and you'll get 5 buttons you can use to pass into Home assistant. then an IR/RF emitter to send commands to the fan from Home assistant. if you're already thinking about getting hue, you could get their remote and stick it to the wall.

If there's no switch on the wall then the fixture must be wired to always be on, or maybe there's a switch/relay in the breaker box itself, so smart bulbs could be a good fit. you'll still need an IR/RF emitter to control the fan though.

Philips Hue has wireless dimmer switches. They don't replace the switch, but you leave the physical switch on at all times, and put this nearby / on top. They control Hue smart bulbs.

I actually had this happen over the weekend and found out my dimmer switch worked regardless of my internet being back up. It's now become my 'kill all' switch for when the power goes out.

AFAIK, it's not the light that's sensitive to the sound but the power adapter such as: http://www.amazon.com/The-Clapper-Sound-Activated-Switch/dp/B0000CGKLR

Maybe you could make your own: http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Clap-Sensitive-Light-Control-The-Clapper/

I would buy 7 other Bluetooth speakers, preferably from different companies, that sounds excessive but it is what you need for Dolby atoms.

Usually the Bluetooth speakers will have a headphone jack, you will use that to connect it to the TV. Obviously your TV doesn't have 10 headphone jacks, but that's where these babies come into play, you will need 9 of them.
You may face the issue that it is cumbersome to turn on all of the speakers separately, you could use a IOT solution like this one to control all of them.

You could order this from Amazon from your ipad: http://www.amazon.com/The-Clapper-Sound-Activated-Switch/dp/B0000CGKLR but one of you would have to eventually get up and install it.

For that kind of money you could easily get a 4-way (or 5-way) bulb adaptor plus 4-5 100w LED bulbs which would be TWICE as bright.

$14.99 for the fixture:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DVUDDC2/ref=crt_ewc_img_gw_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3UENWQOYWIPH9

$35 for 4 LED floodlights that are 100w each:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RMK05Y2/ref=crt_ewc_img_gw_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1VCN0ZD746TM9

Pick up a motion sensing light switch for $21:

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Maestro-required-Single-Pole-MS-OPS2-WH/dp/B005WM3ALC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485043085&sr=8-1&keywords=motion+sensing+light+switch

That will be 500 watts versus 228 watts for only $71, saving you $50 per fixture. Got two like I do? $142 instead of $260!

Now, if something goes wrong, you can replace the bulbs or fixture cheaply. Or take it with you.

Bonus? You don't even have to remove your existing ceiling socket. This all just screws right in!

I used a Lutron Maestro switch. The lights are direct wired to it (through the walls) in my case.

http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Maestro-required-Single-Pole-MS-OPS2-WH/dp/B005WM3ALC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465245428&sr=8-1&keywords=lutron+occupancy+sensor

It isn't a kit, but any light that can be powered from normal home AC power will work with it.

Yup... be worried about how to pay for a new house when your insurance claim is denied because you attached a non-UL listed device into the mains wiring.

Instead, buy [something like this] (https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Maestro-Required-Single-Pole-MS-OPS2-WH/dp/B005WM3ALC) and make sure the installation's done to code.

Your device will be cheaper and more customizable. But you shouldn't screw around with mains power unless you know what you're doing both in terms of the electric and the legal aspects.

Just reno'd my home, and I LOVE MY SMART HOME. I'm using SmartThings in conjunction with Logitech's Harmony Hub, and it is working fantastically!!

A few other recommendations:

1. CAT6 EVERYWHERE. This is so important and worthwhile, that I'm writing it to echo everyone else's statements :) I had my contractor's wiring guy run unfinished, plain Cat6 everywhere, and will finish the ends myself, which saved a ton of money.
   
   
2. Get them to install your Smart Thermostat. I supplied mine (Ecobee 3) to my contractor and wanted them to install it. This is because when I asked them if my furnace had the C-wire, they said yes, so I could install it myself. I pushed them to install it for me, and it turned out that I didn't have the C-wire, so they had to do the extra wiring run to my furnace and get it installed. Massive bullet dodged, no way I could have done that myself after the walls were up. I love smart heating/cooling. I chose the Ecobee 3 because it is actually a hard-wired thermostat, so no need to ever change batteries :)
   
   
3. Smart dimmer switches for nice pendant/chandelier LED lights in kitchen and/or living room (or anywhere else). I bought a couple smart dimmable GE z-wave switches (I think it was this, or a similar model) and had the contractor install those too. This you can probably do yourself, but it's better if they do it for you while they're installing all the other wiring and regular switches anyway. The switches are wonderful, and can dim my beautiful kitchen pendant LEDs, as well as my beautiful chandelier LED. Thus, those lights didn't have to be smart, just the switch, which allowed me unlimited access to any light I want. Light shopping is a lot of fun, a lot of cool stuff out there. If using this switch, just make sure the lights you buy for them are dimmable, as some LED lights are not dimmable, and will tell you so in the specs.
   
   
4. Outlets at every window. For what? SMART AUTOMATED BLINDS. And with the outlets by the windows, then you can order the blinds that come with standard wired power, which is cheaper than the battery powered and solar powered ones. And c'mon, let's face it, no one wants to change the damn batteries, especially with the blinds going up and down at least one cycle per day, and solar power never seems to deliver enough juice. I ordered smart Bali Blinds through Costco that have the Somfi receiver built into them. You build your own package when you order (because you have to measure and specify lengths and widths for blinds), and when choosing accessories, you have to order the Somfi to Z-wave controller (Zrtsi is what they call it) with it. I LOVE these smart blinds.
   
   
5. Get them to install your Smart Door Locks. I'm using a Schlage Z-wave (or zigbee?) lock for this, and it is working great so far. But it was a pain in the ass to install apparently, or more specifically, to line up with the hole the door bolt lines up with in the door frame.
   
   
   HOME MODE:
   
   Now, I have my smart home programmed so that when I pull up onto the driveway and into the range of my wifi, the blinds automatically open, my LED lights come on, and the TV system turns on, programmed to my starting channel of course (which is usually sports, because baseball is on by the time I get home :D), and the door unlocks. It's...really amazing lol...I freaking love this setup.
   
   If I have gone out for the day and just remembered that I didn't check to see if I locked the door? I can just check the status of it from the SmartThings app. Unlocked? Click. Locked.
   
   VACATION MODE:
   
   When I was out of town last month, I programmed a couple SmartThings routines to open and close my blinds, and turn my lights and tv on and off, at different intervals on different days. I used different timings for different days, because why not? It's so easy and simple to set up in SmartThings, so why not make it just the slightest more realistic and difficult for burglars to figure out?
   
   All in all, I can't believe my smart home is actually functioning the way I hoped it would. I expected there to be more issues and problems, but nope, it's working exactly the way I wanted it to.
   
   
   When my garage is cleared out, I will be installing my wifi enabled Chamberlain garage door openers too, so that the garage door will open automatically for me as well :) If you can get them to install that too, that would save you a bunch of time, since that's a lengthy install and you usually need someone to help with it.
   
   GOOD LUCK!
   
   Optional:
   
6. Speaker wire in every room, like bathrooms. Or at least the rooms you'll want sound in (kitchen, bedrooms, living room, bathrooms....that's pretty much every room :D). I wish I had done this. I initially thought I would just use a bluetooth speaker wherever I wanted sound. But then Google released the Chromecast Audio, and you can get whole home sound now for CHEAP...if you have powered speakers everywhere. Plus, it's always good to have speaker wires wherever you're going to have a tv, because true surround sound will always be better than soundbars.
   
   BONUS EDIT:
   
   Writing this prompted me to check my stuff while here at work. I just opened the SmartThings app and noticed I left the blinds open! Click. Closed. :D

I use either GE or Linear/GoControl brand. Both seem to work the same. Only reason I use a combination is because I'm picky and the white color of the Linear ones don't quite match the standard wall plates and switches. So I use the cheaper Linear switches for single gang boxes and the GE for multi:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Dimmer-Z-Wave-12724-Amazon/dp/B006LQFHN2

https://www.amazon.com/Linear-WD500Z-1-Z-Wave-500-Watt-Wall-Mount/dp/B00E1OVFAK

If you have 3-way switches though, be aware that the Linear option can end up costing a bit more. With the GE switches you have one master switch like the one I linked above, and then their add-on switch for the others in the circuit. Linear has an add-on switch also, but it's like twice the price of the GE one. So I always use GE for 3 or 4-way switches:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-Lighting-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ

GE's toggle-style switches (12727, switch; 12728, add-on switch; 12729, dimmer) will fit into an existing toggle setup, but they don't stay up and down like a regular toggle switch does. They're always pointing straight out in the middle and you press them up or down to turn the light on and off (or hold the dimmer up or down to brighten and dim, respectively). They return to their center position as soon as you let go.

I like the decora series a little better (12722, switch; 12723, add-on switch; 12724, dimmer). They have a little LED on them that indicates the current status of the light. The toggle-style switches don't have any indication of whether they're on or off, which is kind of a bummer for outside lights.

One thing to be aware of for the add-on switches: they require a traveler wire, but can only be paired with GE primary switches. The traveler doesn't carry full line voltage; it's just used for the add-on switch to signal the primary when the add-on's been pressed.

Dude....

Non standard, non UL listed switches are potentially dangerous. Who knows what regulations they were built to. Even simple things like when you need a new switch plate will be a pain. I use these with great success

The ones you're looking at don't dim, and if you use Alexa it seems that all three switches are controlled simultaneously. You have to use an app to operate them independently. In the instructions they refer to the hot line as "fire line" and the neutral as "zero line" .

Your insurance company would probably not like these much. (or maybe they would as they could get out of paying a claim if these happened to burn your house down.)

Get your fidget spinners and bulk ping pong balls from aliexpress, but I'd stick with UL listed items when it comes to your well being.

I think this is the link for the lazy. (not affiliate) https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1485595831&sr=8-2&keywords=remote+dry+contact

You have a lot of options. Easiest would probably go with a hub like a Samsung SmartThings hub and get zwave door/window sensors.
For the garage door you could use the GoControl outfit kit https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU

The fireplace gets a bit tricky depending on how the control is. Most newer homes with gas logs are on a milivolt system, meaning the switch on the wall that opens the gas valve doesnt actually have power, its just a signal wire. For this case you need to get power to that switch location which could be as easy as tapping into the lines of an adjacent switch. You need a Zwave dry contact swtich. https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI

I just added a generic Z-Wave relay in parallel with the original wired button.

SOLUTION: http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1463308319&sr=8-3&keywords=remote+power+switch

One press of a button - done. BTW: I don´t have a good feeling that my HMD is always warm - even when turned off. So i will use this for the powerplug of the VIVE also.

I picked up these which work great. No more issues with the TV or worrying about them turning off on their own.

I just enabled the bluetooth thing to have them auto power off. If that wasn't an option I'd get one of these

You need a VR Cover and do you wear glasses at roughly 4 feet? If so, you need lenses. Then there are googly eyes, rubber condoms for your controllers or hmd, sanitary masks for sharing your Vive, extension cables if you have the room to use them, and an ac controller to turn everything on and off. There's probably more but that will get you started.

I can't speak to the specific GE switch you have, but for my 3-way switches at home I used the Lutron Caseta switch w/ the add-on remotes.

They have worked for about a year now with zero issues. The nice part about the remote is it takes up no space in the box. The remote is battery powered (haven't had to replace any yet) and can legitimately be mounted anywhere you think is convenient.

Is this the one you have? Do you have LED lights hooked up to any of them? What Hub are you using?

An alternative would be to use a Lutron dimmer wifi switch that doesnt required a nuetral. Link

I have a few of these and they work great!

Confirmed. The switch is wired to the load and the remote is wall mounted acting as your second switch. I have this arrangement in both the kitchen and the living room and it works wonderfully.

Switch

Wall Plate

Lutron caseta is much simpler than it looks at first. You will need the wireless switch and the wall plate hat matches the number of switches in a location (e.g. a 5-switch install needs 5 switches and 1 5-gang wall plate).

For most people, the switch you want is
LUTRON P-PKG1W-WH Caseta Wireless 600-watt/150-watt Multi-Location In-Wall Dimmer with Pico Remote Control Kit, White
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJY0S4G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_O2YRybNK0JMVR

The single gang wall plate is:
Lutron CW-1-WH 1-Gang Claro Wall Plate (1 Pack), White
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MAW4XE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_F5YRyb2VD4WGE

And you will need one bridge (you can get a bundle of 2 dimmers, 2 picos, and a bridge but that bridge isn't the pro model which you may not need, I got it just in case, but I'm not using any of the additional integration capabilities):
Lutron L-BDGPRO-WH - Smart Bridge Pro
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Z8AXQCQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_N-YRyb1VWE0P8

You can also get a plug in dimmer for Lamps which acts as a range extender, and the non-dimmer switch for other devices such as potentially a ceiling fan or lights that just don't need dimming.

Hope that helps!

Three hardware solutions that I know of:

1. Flic smart button.
   
   (This links to your smartphone via BTLE.)
   
   More info [here.] (http://flic.io)
   
   
2. Satechi Bluetooth Button Series (Media Button.)
   
   (This also links to your smartphone via BTLE.)
   
   More info [here.] (http://www.satechi.net/index.php/satechi-bluetooth-button-series-media-button)
   
   
3. Lutron Pico Remote Control for Audio (requires Caseta Smart Bridge, which I already had installed, for my Lutron "smart" light switches.) More info here.
   

This. The backplates you need to do this are the Pico Wall Plate Brackets. I have em all over since they can fit right in to your home naturally and it makes the Hue system intuitive for guests.

Use a Caseta switch and put Pico remotes at the other location(s). The difference between the normal Caseta dimmer and the dimmer+remote is only $5. Edit: And another $6 for the wall plate bracket, forgot the set doesn't come with one. Edit 2: If you don't need dimming functionality, Nicksatx is right that you can even keep the mechanical switch. You'll probably have to buy the non-dimming on/off switch online because I've never seen one in a store.

If you want your switch to have a more "finished" appearance, get a pico wallplate bracket, a claro wall plate, and then a caseta lamp module.

Depending on how your current lightswitch is configured, you may be able to use a two gang wallplate on your current switch and the new switch.

If you are interested in Lutron, you can just get a Lutron plug-in dimmer with a pico remote:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015SXZLK2/

Hardwire the switch open and mount the pico where the switch is with the wall plate bracket and you are good to go:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JZRAFEA/

If you decide to get more in-depth with home automation, there are also ways to program the different pico buttons to do other things (run scenes, etc)

Very, very easy. Heck the lamp modules look like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Caseta-Wireless-Lighting-Dimmer-PD-3PCL-WH/dp/B00KHSXB60/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1521211609&sr=8-2&keywords=lutron+lamp

And the wall plate adapters to make the remotes mount to the wall are just plastic plates that you put a normal switch cover on.

https://www.amazon.com/Caseta-Wireless-Wallplate-Bracket-PICO-WBX-ADAPT/dp/B00JZRAFEA/ref=sr_1_10?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1521211653&sr=1-10&keywords=lutron+switch+plate


You don't countersink them, just screw to a flat wall. Its amazingly simple.

I believe your problem is that you have Smart bulbs connected to a smart switch. If the smart switch is off then the smart bulbs wouldn't work. I would think your bulbs would still connect to wink as long as the power is on. Since they're both dimmable you probably should use the Lutron Casetta On/Off Switch rather than the dimmer.

You may also be able to pair the light with a connected bulb switch that can be wall mounted next to the regular switch using this Lutron Pico Wallplate Bracket and a 2 gang wallplate.

Here's a comment I wrote the other day for someone else.

Edit: Set-and-forget with an inexpensive timer for your lights; here's my favorite.

So the wine fridge came with the house. Free.

Humidifier: $40
Crane Filter-Free Droplet, Cool Mist Humidifier, Blue and White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O1CQ9OO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FEJ1CbDZ3G50M

Fan: $17
AC Infinity AXIAL 8025, Muffin Fan, 120V AC 80mm x 25mm High Speed, for DIY Cooling Ventilation Exhaust Projects https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009OXSFBA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HGJ1CbDYVZV8J

Fan speed controller: $14
AC Infinity, Fan Speed Controller for 100 to 125V AC Axial Muffin Cooling Fans, Single Connector, for DIY Cooling Ventilation Exhaust Projects https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00809BQZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7HJ1Cb633YCRV

Timer: $13
Century 7 Day Heavy Duty Digital Programmable Timer - Dual Outlet (Indoor) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVF16JG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XIJ1CbQQD38YE
(I'm going to upgrade to a wemo smart plug here, at some point)

Exit vent: $10
Plastic Air Vent Grille Cover 3 Flaps Wall Duct Ventilation Grill With Net Plastic Louvre Air Vent Grille with Flyscreen Cover(1515CM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079N83QSG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GPJ1Cb3KV0CYM
(Can get for half this price at Home Depot)

Controller: $175 + shipping (day... $15)
https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=37&products_id=642

Miscellaneous: $65

Total: $350 (ish)

Acquiring a suitable fridge will certainly add here. I got lucky and we had the wine cooler sitting around for years. It was literally in our house when we moved in.

Hope this helps!

https://www.dripirrigation.com/d071

https://www.dripirrigation.com/50-foot-1-8-inch-micro-tubing-with-187-od

https://www.dripirrigation.com/3-4-mnpt-x-12-pvc-riser

https://www.dripirrigation.com/sf005 (get 12 of these)

https://www.dripirrigation.com/s047 (get 24 of these)

https://www.dripirrigation.com/d075 (get 12 of these)

Add an water pump w/ a digital timer

https://www.amazon.com/Century-Digital-Programmable-Packaging-Security/dp/B00MVF16JG/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=digital+timer+electric&qid=1572359867&sr=8-5

https://www.amazon.com/EcoPlus-Adjustable-Water-Pump-172/dp/B00FH9L3QE/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=eco+pump&qid=1572360378&refinements=p_89%3AEcoPlus&rnid=2528832011&sr=8-4

Don’t mind at all! I’ll just post the whole setup below:

• Using standard potting soil from one of the local big box stores with a little peat moss spread in.
  
  Using these T5s: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AKKUBDQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
  
  Using these LEDs: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074Y32PFZ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
  
  Using this outlet timer for 12 hours on/off: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVF16JG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
  
  Using these for gnat control (it was pretty bad at the beginning): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O2KYORO?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

For your lighting, getting a digital timer will make your life so much easier. I have Century 7 brand from Amazon, only $13. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MVF16JG/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495566943&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=light+timer+century&dpPl=1&dpID=41Qwe9JjZ5L&ref=plSrch
It has two outlets so one for heat and one for UVB. I have 2 basking lights + UVB so I plugged a power strip into the timer and now I can plug in more stuff! It'll turn your lights on and off for you every day so you don't have to worry about forgetting and won't have to wake up early to turn lights on. My lights are on at 7:30am and off at 9:30pm.

Here is a picture of my set up. Lights are about a foot away from the plants (could probably be close but they do just fine) and are on for 16 hours a day via this timer! :)

DETAILS ON SET UP

Light: Roleadro 300W LED light

Fan and filter: ipower 4" inline fan with carbon filter (my roomates are worried about the smell

Tent: Millard 30" x 18" x 36" tent

Odds and ends: A digital timer to schedule lights

A fan speed controller

3-gallon smart pots

A humidity and temp sensor

Plus a small clip on fan.

GROW DETAILS

I have three different strains, Northern Lights, Pre-99 big bud, and pure power plant, and then an unknown seed(which I planted about two weeks ago as the previous unknown seed turned out male, see previous post [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/microgrowery/comments/5qo1yo/early_sign_of_balls_details_in_comments/0. One in each 3-gallon smart pot. For the first two weeks of growing I had an 18/6 light schedule, and then switched to 12/12. (I'm essentially doing 12/12 from as early as the plant could respond to the change in light schedule). Over the past 15 days I watered twice with tiger bloom nutes.

I definitely made the mistake of not listening to your advice when I originally posted and am trying to grow 3 plants in a 1.5X2.5X3 foot tent...It is getting crowded, I should've listened and stuck with one, maybe two plants. Other than that I haven't had any problem that I have noticed other then a few spots of damage on leaves occasionally but no pests or wilting. I'm sure there are things I could've done better though. Thank you for all your help, I can't wait to get to harvest.

Sure! I used these lights from amazon. I think they are supposed to be for garages but they met the specs I was looking for (CCT: 6500k and 2100+ lumens per square foot per light) and were relatively inexpensive. I have 2 on each shelf connected to eachother by cords that are included in the pack. The pack also comes metal snaps that screw in, but I opted to attach using large command picture hanging strips. I kept the metal brackets just in case the command strips didnt work but so far they have been working great and I dont have to put as many holes in the hutch. Plus I have run the lights for 8 hours straight and can still touch the aluminum housing. I would say after that amount of time its like touching one of those hand warmer packs right when they start. Its kind of hard to see from the pictures but I did have to drill small 5/8th inch holes so the lights could connect as a continuous unit. This was honestly just for me because I am forgetful and have them hooked up to this timer. I also have some mini fans that I would like to put in so I can keep the doors shut... but I havent quite figured that out yet haha

The easiest way is to get a GE Fan Controller and a compatible hub, such as SmartThings, Wink, or Vera.

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Control-Z-Wave-12730-Amazon/dp/B00PYMGVVQ

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-VRF01-1LZ-Capable-Control-Almond/dp/B001HT4M48

Building off of /u/Terrancelee

They are called Fan speed controls

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Control-Z-Wave-12730-Amazon/dp/B00PYMGVVQ

For your fan, take a look at this. It allows you to control the speed of the fan without having to click the chain. Leave the fan on high and let the switch work its magic. I love the one I have in my living room.

[GE 12730 Z-Wave Smart Fan Control] (http://amzn.com/B00PYMGVVQ) is what I installed. The picture doesn't show it but there are are a set of 3 LEDs on the vertical plastic strip that show the speed setting selected. I must have dreamed that.

sounds like you have a three way light in your kitchen (two switches control the same light). You'll need one smart switch and one add-on switch
GE add-on switch

You will need the primary switch and the second switch has to be an "add on" switch like this one:

GE 12723 Add-On Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MDgvxbGSX5G0Z

A non-zwave switch won't work.

GE makes "add-on" switches for their Z-Wave, Zigbee, and Bluetooth switches. The normal smart switch is installed on one end (usually where the power comes in from your panel) and an add-on switch gets connected on the other side. These switches do require neutral (usually white) wires - as long as you have those, no additional wiring should be needed.

I do not know if there are any wifi switches that work this way. However, I've been using GE's Z-Wave switches with the Aeotec Z-Stick Gen5 and Home Assistant and it's been working great! If you're not already locked into a certain technology and don't mind using Z-Wave that would be my recommendation.

BTW it's not difficult to wire them yourself once you know what you're doing. I hired an electrician to wire the first few for me - I watched them, asked questions, and learned how to do the others myself.

I have one 4-way setup in my house; I used the GE zwave light switch and 2 add-on switches. One main switch and then two add-on switches will run you less than $100.

I like the GE switches. Currently running 5 though out the house. You can use the GE switch and purchase a add on switch. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493836027&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ge+add+on+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=41glGOvc3NL&ref=plSrch

It sort of depends on how you want to control it. I don't use HomeKit so I can't offer much assistance there.

Here's a Z-Wave appliance module.

• 900 watt incandescent
  
• 200 watt LED / CFL
  
• 1/2 HP motor
  
• 1800 watts (15 amp) resistive
  
  https://shop.homeseer.com/products/homeseer-hs-pa100-z-wave-plus-wireless-appliance-module
  
  
  There's also this 40A badboy. :D
  
  https://www.amazon.com/GE-Appliance-Direct-Wire-Appliances-12726/dp/B00YTCZZF0/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1

Something like this may work https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTCZZF0

GE makes a 40-amp z-wave switch/contactor that could work as well https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTCZZF0

Easiest solution would be to install a simple toggle switch. You can do this at your equipment pad. Cut the wire feeding the device and install the switch in between this connection. I'm assuming it's 240v? If so, just use a switch like this as long as you have a 30amp or smaller breaker.

If it's outdoors, just grab a weatherproof junction box like this and a cover. Might have to get creative with the conduit run (assuming outside), but should be no big deal if you're handy.

The line feeding my pool equipment has a toggle switch like that. The line comes from the breaker into a toggle, then out to a timer that controls my pump and salt cell.

You could also install a timer instead of a switch if you wanted. They even make z-wave ones.

Just ordered 2 of these, they arrive tommorow so i'm going to see how they work but I ordered them for basically purpose you're asking about

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014STZASK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The Lutron LZL-4B-WH-L01 Connected Bulb Remote will do what you want; it's what I use for this exact purpose. You can directly pair it to one or multiple bulbs.

iConnectHue also let's you really customize the Hue remote. You can definitely set it up to control specific lights in a room. I have 8 lights in a room, the first press turns on 1 light, the 2nd press turns on 2 more, and the third press turns on the remaining 6 lights.

I've been using the Lutron Connected Bulb Remote. They work great:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014STZASK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

From one of the Amazon reviews, here's the pairing instructions:

1. Pair bulb and hub as normal, test functions of bulb with Hue app
   
2. unwrap the remote Hold On and Off on remote for 10s to factory reset
   
3. use Hue app to add a Hue Dimmer Switch, selecting Option 1, New Remote
   
4. Use the On button on the remote, hold it next to Hue Hub and hold on for about 4s. Watch the remote LED. You are looking for fast blinking of the remote LED to inicate pairing was successful. The Hue app will not display any information about the pairing.
   
5. Go to the smart bulb and hold the remote to it, hold On for 10s, wait for the bulb to finish flashing, the remote to finish blinking fast indicating sucessful pairing.
   
6. Remote joined master network at Hue Hub, then made secondary network with bulb.

Most people seem to use smart things as a dumb hub. Other options include the Hue and Lightify gateway, both of which are zigbee.

I use a lightify gateway, but haven't left the lightify ecosystem yet so not sure how well it works with other devices. I got into lightify originally because I really like these switches that can be stand alone or cover your normal light switch, and the tunable white bulbs are only $25 Amazon.


Edit: Relevant thread on the forums: https://community.home-assistant.io/t/z-wave-zigbee-usb-stick/8232/8

Yup, eagerly awaiting that enhancement too!

My ideal Hue-compatible smart-switch -- which AFAIK doesn't exist -- would be hard-wired so it could control load to the fixture as a backup, but normal operation would just send Zigbee signals for smart control.

Along those lines, I've heard of some folks using this product, which is battery-powered and fits over the top of a conventional wall-switch. So that prevents people in your household from accidentally toggling the wall-switch (but it can still be accessed on the rare occasions where it's needed.) But I personally don't care for the aesthetics of a big bulging remote on the wall. Also, I don't think that Sylvania product is directly compatible with the Hue hub; you'd need some other automation solution (SmartThings, HomeKit, etc.) to bridge those systems.

I use one of these through smarthings works great. Sylvania Smart Home 73743 Lightify Smart Dimming Switch, Dimmer, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196M620Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3gW4Cb02M57JK

Put in any light fixture and bulbs you want and use a Lutron Caseta in wall dimmer switch. First light switch is about 100 bucks,

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-P-BDG-PKG1W-Caseta-Wireless-Selected/dp/B00MXCRAX8/ref=sr_1_3?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1482958038&sr=1-3&keywords=lutron+caseta

This includes the Smart hub needed to make it internet accessible.
Each additional switch thereafter is around 50$.

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Caseta-Wireless-Dimmer-150-Watt/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=sr_1_2?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1482958148&sr=1-2&keywords=lutron+caseta

You can also purchase them with remotes for $60

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-600-watt-150-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G/ref=sr_1_1?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1482958148&sr=1-1&keywords=lutron+caseta

and you can purchase plug in versions that allow you to control standard lamps and such ($60)

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Caseta-Wireless-Dimmer-300-watt/dp/B00JJY1QG0/ref=sr_1_7?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1482958148&sr=1-7&keywords=lutron+caseta

Lutron Caseta is not only compatible with alexa, ("alexa turn my living room to 50%" "alexa turn off my bed room" "alexa turn my living room to 10%" etc.) it is also fully homekit enabled. ("Hey siri, set my chamber to 2%" ) and utilizing the home app on your iDevice, you can set up schedules and such, for example my bedroom light turns on to 10% 30min before my alarm, and up to 50% 5 minutes before my alarm. This really helps me wake up on time.

Lutron caseta work great. worth the money

Well...yes. I’ve got numerous lutron caseta dinners and they require no neutral.

They linked you to the family of products, but the dimmer in question is this:

Lutron Caseta Smart Home Dimmer Switch, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, and the Google Assistant | for LED Light Bulbs, Incandescent Bulbs and Halogen Bulbs | PD-6WCL-WH | White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2FATDbKD3M7S4

This is the fan I use and this is the timer it runs on also.

You don't need a "night light", you want your snake to have darkness at night. Light and heat should be from two separate sources, and make sure your heat source is always controlled by a thermostat. If your room does not receive ambient lighting from a window, etc. you can use something as simple as a clamp lamp with an led light bulb screwed into it, plugged into an outlet timer. As long as the light is not overly bright (grow lights or aquarium fixtures can be too bright) and your snake has a place(s) to seek shelter this will work fine.

There grow lights I purchased on Amazon. I have a timer set up to give them more light during the winter months.

Yeah, so most cannabis plants , except for autoflowers, are what’s called “photo-period” where their growth is determined by the light schedule, so we basically have to recreate natural patterns of sunlight.

During the first stage , Vegetative stage, you want to run your lights on 18 hours, off 6. During this phase, you train your plant to grow the way you want it to. See: Low-Stress Training, Supercropping, Mainlining, etc. the plant does not create flowers during this stage. I always flip my plants into flower mode whenever my plants are a little under half the size I want them to grow to, as they can double in size or more during flower.

To put your plants into flower mode, you just switch the light schedule to 12 hours on, 12 hours off. Flowering times vary based on strain, but average is about 8-9 weeks of flower before harvest.

You can get a digital timer for your lights on amazon for cheap. This is what I use in all of my tents.

So I don’t know exactly how much I’ve spent on my beardie since he was given to me with almost everything I needed to care for him, but I can give you the basics.

First off, for the flooring you can use paper towels to start, or contact cabinet paper that can be found at a dollar tree. I don’t think tile is that expensive, but if you’re unable to get some at the moment those work just fine. I also suggest covering the back and sides of the tank so the beardie doesn’t see its reflection and get stressed

You’ll need at least one hide on the cooler side, which can be made from something as simple as a small cardboard box with a hole cut in it or some bricks that are arranged into a cave-like hide

A basking area can be made from bricks purchased at Lowe’s or Home Depot, or if you choose to use any driftwood/rocks you find just make sure you clean them properly

Calcium powder is also extremely important to help your beardie not develop MBD. I’m part of a Facebook bearded dragon group that suggests this brand sprinkled over greens/bugs three times a week: https://www.chewy.com/repashy-superfoods-calcium-plus/dp/166276 I poke some holes in the paper lid with a toothpick to create a shaker-type deal so I’m not wasting any calcium

I think one of the most expensive parts is the UVB light since they can get pretty pricey, and since they need to be changed every six months. Here’s an 18”, along with a fixture that could be used, but obviously with a longer tank you’ll need a longer size: https://www.chewy.com/zoo-med-t8-reptisun-100-uvb/dp/126590 https://www.amazon.com/GE-Fluorescent-Included-Workbench-16466/dp/B000HJ75PW again, I usually stay away from reptile brands for things such as fixtures because the cheaper version works better and lasts longer. The T8 bulb needs to be hooked into the tank, which I use zip ties to the lid but Velcro to the side also works, as long as it’s 12” away from the basking area

Heat lamp with dimmer: https://www.chewy.com/flukers-clamp-lamp-dimmer-85-in/dp/129140

Pack of 90w flood lights (make sure they’re halogen, not LED): https://www.homedepot.com/p/Philips-90-Watt-PAR38-Halogen-Indoor-Outdoor-Flood-Light-Bulb-2-Pack-466268/205541724

Digital temp gun: https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-774-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY

Light timer for both lights: https://www.amazon.com/Century-Heavy-Digital-Programmable-Timer/dp/B00MVF16JG

Vet bills and fecal tests can be pricey as well, depending on where you live. My last vet appointment with mine, which did include a test for parasites, cost around $300

While I don’t know how much I’ve spent on my beardie, I can safely estimate it’s $700+, give or take a bit. One of the most expensive is buying the greens and bugs for him. I’m growing a garden to feed him but since it’s not ready yet, I have to constantly buy him collards, turnip and mustard greens, along with various fruits and veggies which can go bad very quickly. I’m in the process of looking into buying his superworms online where you can get a better deal, but at the moment I’m paying 100 for $10 at my local exotic pet shop, which he goes through quickly.

I don’t know how old you are, but if you say you’re not old enough to properly take care of a reptile I would wait a few years or so until you get another. Bearded dragons, while more of a beginner reptile than others, still require a lot of time and effort to make sure they stay healthy. I would recommend doing a lot research throughout the next few months (look at multiple sources, don’t just listen to people at a pet store because often they don’t know what they’re talking about), and if possible, perhaps slowly start gathering the needed supplies in order to properly care for one

I hope I covered everything since reddit refreshed and deleted my first response before I finished, but if you have any more questions you can always message me (:

I use these programmable timers for my iguana and turtle lamps. Each timer can control 2 devices and support 8 daily on/off cycles. Great for fish tanks, too FYI.

You don't need to spend a lot of money to accomplish what you want. Just get as many of these cheap basic timers as you need, one per schedule. Say you want your lights on at certain times but everything else on at a different time, all you need is 2 of these, and plug in a cheap power strip to the timer so you can hook up as many appliances as you need to the timer. Not sure why you would even consider spending so much on just a timer...

https://amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVF16JG

Your previous post mentioned that this started after day light savings time. Have you considered just putting her to bed at her regular (before the time change) time? Then maybe adjusting bed time by 5 or 10 minutes every night to make it an easier adjustment for her?

Also, I let my kids stay up as late as they want but only if they are in their bed reading. This goes for all three of them (11, 7, and 2.5) and has always worked wonders for keeping them in the bed. They usually fall asleep on their own within 30 minutes or so. We have these lights strung up in the toddlers room on a switch timer so they automatically turn on at bedtime and off 30 min later. Gives him enough light to look through his book (his current favorite is "Too Many Carrots") and we don't have to risk waking him up to turn them off later. The 7 year old has a cute cat shaped silicone light, which she adores, and the 11 year old uses a head lamp from our camping gear.

I didn't want to (or wasn't ready) to replace ceiling fans, and my light and fan were wired separately, so I opted for the Lutron Caseta in-wall dimmer for the light and the GE smart fan controller for the fan.

This setup works perfectly with Wink and Echo if you ignore Wink sees the fan controller as a light (just name it ceiling fan) and therefore, doesn't understand low, medium, or high (so I say off, 25%, 50%, or 100%).

I'll warn that I was quite happy with my Lutron switches until I saw how sleekly GE incorporated dimming into their Decora-style rocker switch ... which people are more accustomed to. Average Joe walks in, and although the Caseta is clearly labeled, they have a tendency to freak out.

On the other hand, what filthy peasant is still using their hands? ;-)

I would suggest the GE Zwave switch mentioned above if you have a capable hub (Wink/Vera/Smartthings, etc.), or if you really want to fine tune control, you can use a GE Zwave Fan speed control switch. IMO, both are better options than the Wemo.

Links:

https://www.amazon.com/GE12722-Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1467068632&sr=1-1&keywords=ge+zwave+switch

https://www.amazon.com/GE-12730-Z-Wave-Smart-Control/dp/B00PYMGVVQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1467068575&sr=1-1&keywords=ge+smart+fan+control

You are welcome, as far as the camera goes I search on eBay and use the keywords "Vivint ping camera" (I am unsure how to link an auction from my phone. As far as add ons to my system I use 2gig PIR1 Passive Infrared Motion Detector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TZ73C6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ng.CzbM9GCJSE for the motion sensor, GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Dimmer Switch, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12724 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wi.Czb8H4K514 for my dimmers, Previous Model: GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12730 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGVVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1i.CzbBD0V1RF for my ceiling fans, GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Duplex Receptacle Outlet, On/Off, In-Wall, White, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12721 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Lj.CzbQAY9KV4 for my outlets. I have found home automation to be addicting and expensive haha.

GE 12730 Z-Wave Smart Fan Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGVVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_k.W2wbCC5SW29The GE Fan Control switch works. You'll have to have a switch for both the fan and light.

You could accomplish this with home automation. Replace the fan switch with this zwave switch and then add a Wink or Smartthings hub. Your phone would be the remote. You can also get an Amazon Echo for cheap and then control the fan with your voice.

It's a standard Hampton Bay fan, but it's controlled with a GE ZWave fan wall switch.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGVVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_O5FnzbVCPG00Y

If you're patient, Lowe's periodically marks them down to $35.

Hue ecosystem uses the Zigbee protocol. The Hue app can only control lights out of the box. There is only 1 fan controller for HA that I'm aware of and that's the GE zwave fan controller which requires a z-wave hub similar to SmartThings which also integrates with Hue and it works pretty well.


GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12730 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGVVQ

The most popular way to control fans is to get one of [these] (https://www.amazon.com/GE-12730-Z-Wave-Smart-Control/dp/B00PYMGVVQ) and link it through smartthings

For the fan:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGVVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WNzqyb1WFHGY0

For the light pick any zwave dimmer you want.

Make sure you have neutral wires behind those existing switches.

Edit: buy a "companion switch" for the other wall. It's likely a 3-way switch setup.

If you have a 3 wire ran from the switch to the fan (white,black,red,ground) you can do some variation of what I did for my Fan/Light rooms.

This for the light control. Also This if you want it to match with the fan switch.

This for the fan control.

If you only have a 2 wire ran from the fan/light to the switch then you would have to do something more along the lines of what u/caddymac suggested.

Hope this helps and if you have anymore questions let us know.

This is a Z Wave compatible switch designed to control a fan.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PYMGVVQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01

There are a ridiculous number of options, but based on my bedroom:

A 52" Haiku H series with SensMe (HA integration) in a dark finish wood, with satin nickel base, on a level 9' ceiling, with a light fixture, and wall switch is $1315.00.

Or you can go to Amazon and buy a more sensible fan for $100-$300 dollars, and set up most of the same rules using a multi sensor and a z-wave fan control.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PYMGVVQ?keywords=Ceiling%20fan%20z-wave&qid=1458787380&ref_=sr_1_2&sr=8-2

You could do this using zwave devices. It will cost some money up front but you'll have a solid base to build out more complex home automation tasks if you want to.

You can turn any computer into a local "hub" with a Zwave USB dongle. This one is pricey but works really well. Plug that into a spare laptop lying around the house or buy a Raspberry PI.

Install the Home Assistant package on the computer or PI that you plugged the dongle into. This makes it easy to send and receive signals from Zwave devices without having to learn a bunch of low level APIs. You can write automation commands using YAML markup or write complex, custom tasks using Python. Home Assistant is just a bundle of open source free software, so I don't think of it as a "service", but you could roll your own software if you like that replaces it. It all runs locally, not in the cloud, so you own and control it.

Now you can buy any Zwave switch you want. GE has a bunch of reasonable priced switches.

You can get an "add on" switch that does not hook into your home power but controls smart light bulbs like Hue using over the air signals.

Or you can buy a real switch that does control existing lights through the power in your home -- this will let you send signals to your switch using your Home Assistant "hub" to turn lights on or off and dim them without having to replace existing bulbs.

Have fun.

What you want to accomplish is certainly possible, however, you have a 3-way switch, so you will have to replace both switches. GE makes a 3-way compatible z-wave dimmer switch that I've used in my house that I've been pretty happy with. You will need to install the z-wave dimmer on your load switch (where the hot line comes in) and an "add-on" switch on the other 3-way switch. The photo you posted appears to be of your non-load switch since there isn't a black line connected to the switch, but to be sure you should test the load portion of the switch with a multimeter.

Here's links to the GE switches I use:
GE Z-Wave Dimmer
Add-On Switch

Edit: Upon looking at the photo you posted again, I do see a black line, but I can't see how it's connected to the switch. It's possible this is your primary load switch, but again I'm would test with a multimeter to be sure.

You need a switched module (not lamp) and it will handle the fluorescents just fine. GE smart switch with a remote should do the job.

You don't have to rewire anything. One of your light switches is the real switch, and the other is connected to that first switch (not to the main power) Install the GE module at the real switch location, and install the remote at the other, it uses the same wiring.

If you're not sure you can tell the difference, or are concerned about doing a true 3 way, then you can use 1 GE smart module, and velcro an Aeotech Zwave remote near the other location to control it remotely.

Switch

Remote

Aeotech Remote

Thanks! That switch looks great. And I see that the website advertises Nexia compatibility so that's good.

In the picture I posted, the stair lights have 2 switches that control them. Would I get one of these smart switches and one of the add-on paddles?

SmartThings Version 3 Hub (I have the Version 2 Hub...you will have to look around for this one):
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Generation-GP-U999SJVLGDA-Automation/dp/B07FJGGWJL/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989501&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=smartthings+hub+2nd+generation&psc=1

GE Z-Wave Plus On/Off Light Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989582&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave+switch

GE Z-Wave Plus Dimmer Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B07361Y54Z/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989582&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave%2Bswitch&th=1

GE Add On Switch (if you have a 3-way or 4-way switch):
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-STANDALONE-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989718&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave+add+on+switch

ZigBee Motion Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F8ZHBLS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ZigBee Door Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F956F3B/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

ZigBee Leak Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F951JDP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

ZigBee Outlet Plug (you will need to replicate your ZigBee mesh, I use to motion activate lamps, turn lamps on/off at sunset/sunrise, etc.):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F96JB63/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

Z-Wave Thermostat:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005EJ7YO2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ZigBee RGB Landscape RGB LED Strips:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R1PB2ZY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ZigBee RGB Lightbulbs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073ZBYXKQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Z-Wave Deadbolt:
https://www.amazon.com/Kwikset-SmartCode-Electronic-SmartThings-featuring/dp/B004F1B24I/ref=sr_1_12?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990126&sr=1-12&keywords=z-wave+lock

Z-Wave Garage Door Opener:
https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990160&sr=1-4&keywords=z-wave+garage+door+opener

Sonos One Speakers (Great music, and talking through SmartThings):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XN1LH3/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amazon Echo Show (for Voice Control...an Echo Dot will work just fine too):
https://www.amazon.com/All-new-Echo-Show-2nd-Gen/dp/B077SXWSRP/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990254&sr=1-1&keywords=echo+show

That's about all I can think of at the moment.

If you are going to do this, do it in stages. Z-Wave and ZigBee are mesh networks...meaning that the reliability of the network gets much better the more devices you have. Also, with these mesh networks:

• Battery operated devices DO NOT reinforce the mesh
  
• The only devices that reinforce the mesh are devices that are always powered from the mains
  
  I see so many people complaining about how the Z-Wave or ZigBee devices don't work, when they are relying on too many battery operated devices.
  
  For Z-Wave devices, choose Z-Wave Plus over Z-Wave...it's the newest standard, and has much better range.
  
  In the US, Z-Wave operates in the 900 MHz spectrum and ZigBee in the 2.4 GHz spectrum. Personally, I "prefer" Z-Wave devices as there is a lot of "junk" in the 2.4 GHz spectrum right now. However, the ZigBee devices are operating reliably as I have a strong mesh setup (with non-battery operated devices).
  
  Two great application for the Leak Sensors:
  
  
• Near your hot water heater (when they go, they always leak)
  
• Under your A/C drip pan (if you have central air)
  
  Great applications for door open/close sensors:
  
  
• Turn closet lights on/off when the door opens or closes
  
• Turn on entry and hallway lights when an entry door opens, but only when it's dark (30 minutes before sunset or after sunrise)...turn off 1 minute later
  
• Notify me when my gun safe is opened
  
  Great Application for Motion Sensors
  
  
• Turn on outside ceiling fans (but only if the temp is above 72 degrees)
  
• Turn on lamps while motion is active when it's dark
  
  The motion sensors I linked above are the new ones...the magnetically mount. What's cool is that the magnet is in the sensor, and it's strong enough to attach the sensor to a dry wall screw (no need to mount the adapter bracket).

> I will get the switches wired correctly and only install one z wave switch. As everyone has pointed out 2 would be overkill.

You need two switches still. Just one of them needs to be an add-on switcht. Or buy it as a kit.

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-Three-Way/dp/B0035YUOWC

It's probably cheaper to just buy them individually though:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Z-Wave-Smart-Dimmer-12724/dp/B0035YRCR2?th=1

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Z-Wave-Smart-Dimmer-12724/dp/B00RKJS8MQ?th=1

Yeah, sorry, I didn't know how to phrase that properly. I meant I replaced the switches in a 4 way circuit.

It's not the standard 1 4-way and 2 3-way switches, though.

One of these - https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2

And two add on switches - https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-Lighting-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ

So I twisted together the hot line and a traveler to send power to box 2 where I installed the primary switch.

Right now I also have the load line in box three twisted with a traveler to send that to box 2 as well.

So the circuit should be only operable by one switch now, or so I'd think.

Edit: this circuit previously had a 4 way switch in box 2 and 3 way switches in boxes 1 and 3

They are currently $16

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=pd_sim_421_8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=1BYZ0MK34QEHRJMPAEQP

The Trane works without the subscription, but the GoControl for the garage door does not.

Yes. Z-wave water heater switch.

Are you aware of this product? Not sure if it covers your amperage requirements: https://smile.amazon.com/GE-Appliance-Required-Works-SmartThings-14285/dp/B00YTCZZF0?sa-no-redirect=1

Second the smart relay.. here's one on Amazon that is even advertised for pool pumps.. I've had good luck with the GE Zwave receptacles inside my house using a SmartThings hub.

I did a google search with the terms "120v smart plug outdoor" and got this:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12720/dp/B00YTCZZF0?th=1

Lutron Connected Bulb Remote

Lutron LZL-4B-WH-L01 Connected Bulb Remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014STZASK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jOkgAbY6SC8AF


You can use this so that they can just hit the switch in their room. I bought mine for 19 so they are a little expensive right now.

The Caseta switch will not control dimming of smart bulbs. It will only control dimming of normal bulbs screwed into lights it switches. Another option is the lamp dimmer which plugs into an outlet and then you plug the lamp into it. Again it will only control a normal bulb. If you’re smart bulbs are zigbee. Lutron makes a wireless pico remote called the connected bulb remote that can be mounted to the wall. That may work for you


Remote:
Lutron LZL-4B-WH-L01 Connected Bulb Remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014STZASK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9uobAb02YR3KA

Wall bracket:
Lutron PICO-WBX-ADAPT Pico Wallplate Bracket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JZRAFEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5vobAbMH0D9B0

Edited with link

I've used these in places where I have smart bulbs

http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-LZL-4B-WH-L01-Connected-Bulb-Remote/dp/B014STZASK

Can be used as a handheld remote control, or there is a bracket you can get for like $5 to mount it in an existing box on your wall

Oh look,
$17
Lutron LZL-4B-WH-L01 Connected Bulb Remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014STZASK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_F4xizbVVSS6K1

I have the same issue so i went with the following:

1 x Lutron Connected Bulb remote

1 x Cree Connected Light bulb

1 x Lutron PICO-WBX-ADAPT Pico Wallplate Bracket

1 x Lutron Claro Wall Plate

I leave the light permanently "on", and removed the chain. The bulb is controlled by the remote, which i then put on the wall outside the storage closet so it looks just like a normal light switch for the room.

All up, about $50, no wiring needed, looks like it is meant to be there, and best thing, if you end up expanding your Home Automation with a hub, the remote talks to Wink (although Wink are having trouble with the cree connected bulb lately. The remote also works with GE link bulbs, but you need a Wink hub for that to work.

They do make another remote called the connected bulb remote that does what you want. I went through the same thing you did with the pico remote...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014STZASK/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_10?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Just bought a few of these at Home Depot: http://amzn.com/B014STZASK

I think theyre exactly what you're looking for. They can control most smart bulbs and are sized like a regular decora switch so you can pop it in the wall and have it look like it's wired in.

If you just want a switch that turns a fan on/off with no speed control, you can use Lutron Caseta's non-dimming switch. It requires a neutral wire.

I have never heard of LC before this thread so I trotted over to Amazon to see what I could see. The 2nd non-sponsored result was Caseta Wireless Smart Lighting Switch for All Bulb Types and Fans, PD-6ANS-WH, White, Works with Amazon Alexa. Is there really no fan control or am I misunderstanding?

They are fairly easy to install IF you are comfortable with electricity. They do come with easy to follow instructions.

Here is what you need: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017LRCG38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wV2ozbBHNPJ6X

Both my Eufy Tunable SmartBulbs and TP-Link SmartBulbs will do this. The difference is when they are in the OFF state, you need to flip their corresponding switch off and then back on; at this point they return to a default ON state and a dimmer knob will adjust the brightness.


EDIT: If you’re sold on going the dinner switch method, you’ll probably need to go with something like this but it requires a hub to work with Alexa/GHome.

The dimmer is pretty pricey and specifically made for Hue lights.

The other product, I've gotten for half-price what it is on Amazon right now. It won't connect to the Hue bridge though so I have it connected through Smartthings to control my Hue lights.

I don't personally have this, but I've seen others talk about it, so it may be worth looking into, but Sylvania Lightify Dimming Switch should be able to do it with the device handler created by the community.

Product: https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-Smart-Dimming-Switch-Formerly/dp/B0196M620Y

Device Handler: https://community.smartthings.com/t/release-osram-lightify-smart-dimming-switch-ultra-fast-zigbee-handler-no-smart-app/54909

Then Lightify is the only option really, but it does require a hub as well. The link below should be the one.

https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-LIGHTIFY-Wireless-SmartThings-Assistant/dp/B0196M620Y

I'm totally new to this; setting up my Wink Hub 2 / Sengled Lights today, and only have a few WiFi based outlets / lights right now.

But, here's what I'm looking at to control Zigbee lights that are in a lamp on a "dumb outlet"... SYLVANIA LIGHTIFY ZigBee 2 Button Wireless Dimmer Switch, Works with SmartThings, Wink, or Echo Plus, etc.

For Z-Wave, I found this: NanoMote that seems the most straight-forward or "simple".

Here's a few others I came across as well, https://www.zwaveproducts.com/shop/controllers/z-wave-remotes.

Might see if there's a popular controller among this community though!

I use the Sylvania Lightify Dimming Switch. It works with SmartThings and Zigbee bulbs.

https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-LIGHTIFY-Wireless-SmartThings-Assistant/dp/B0196M620Y

Can you pair 3rd party zigbee bulbs to your existing hue setup and use remotes for that? This guy did it but no mention of remotes:

www.howtogeek.com/216811/how-to-add-third-party-smart-bulbs-to-your-philips-hue-system/amp/

you are basically asking for smart switch functionality without installing smart switches which is a tough ask at that price point. You could try this: https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-LIGHTIFY-Wireless-SmartThings-Assistant/dp/B0196M620Y

Smart switches are probably the best in MOST situations.

The reasons to go with a bulb (In my opinion) are:

1. A lamp, since there is no switch to be used there
   
   
2. A very poorly located switch that you won't really ever be interacting with anyways. Then it's kinda a toss up. Though you can get switch which also have a remote, so you can put a smart switch on in this case, and mount the remote on the wall in a better location. This is also a way to make a single pole switch into a "dual pole switch" without any rewiring.
   
   
3. You want some of the features that only a smart bulb can give you, such as color or temperature changing.
   
   If you do go with bulb there are some ways to get around some of the problems of the switch behavior with smart bulbs:
   
   
4. My hue bulbs do come back on at full brightness when power is restored after being cut, meaning that if I need to get some light in the room and I don't care about color, temp brightness etc just flicking the switch off and on turn them on. Not a great solution but ok when you need to flick alight on in a hurry to find something. Note though that this is a reason not to put Hue bulb in a bedroom, if the power goes out in the middle of the night and comes back on your bedrooms lights goe to full brightness, not so nice.
   
   
5. Another way to use 'switches' and bulbs is to wire the bulb to be always on, and then wall mount a remote inplace of the switch plate.
   
   
6. Another ooption (That i haven't tested but have been told works) is somehting like this which you can place over a regular light switch. So you flick the switch on, and then cover it with this to control the lights. This has the advantage of more easily cutting the power to the fixture incase you need to for some reason.
   
   I asked a question recently about switches to use with Hue bulbs here
   
   

You'll want just a scene controller.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196M620Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GLtSAb8MTNX3E

Otherwise you'll be controlling the fan which might burn the motor.

Maybe something like this
https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-LIGHTIFY-Wireless-SmartThings-Assistant/dp/B0196M620Y

Easiest first thing to do is add a Google Home (or Alexa but sounds like you’re in the Google ecosystem). This gives voice control to anyone in the house. Next I would consider adding some physical switches for the bulbs - you’ll probably need a hub like SmartThings unless you’re willing to wire them in because all the WiFi switches need power. Here is a wireless example https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196M620Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9w5Xzb56QC5K0

Definitely can't mix any smarttlights with a dimmer switch. To dim them, you should use the app or their battery powered switch: http://amzn.com/B0196M620Y

Check out TP link smart switches

and if that's not really what you're looking for I also like These mini wifi smart plugs

Hope this helps!

(Apologies for the formatting I'm on mobile)

I have two switches in my apartment and love them while they are single pole, you can wire it into a multipole, just don't ever the other switch. It was easy for us because one switch was on the kitchen counter behind the coffee machine, and the other ended up behind some shelving.

I wired it myself and I have very very limited knowledge on the subject. I think you can set a timer, or at the very least you can use your cell phone to turn it off from the bed.

Also these are hubless, but you can get a hub if you want one.

Yes, you need a smart bulb for every bulb in the fixture.

If you have a neutral in the switchbox (IEC code in America since 2011), you can add a smart switch. Z-Wave, Zigbee smart switches require a hub. Kasa makes a Wifi smart switch as well:

https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Wi-Fi-Light-Switch-TP-Link/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=sr_1_1?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1536589791&sr=1-1&refinements=p_n_amazon_certified%3A16741513011

That's a switch for power outlet. A light switch needs to go in a box in a wall for light switches.

Such a device looks like https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Wi-Fi-Light-Switch-TP-Link/dp/B01EZV35QU

Are the outlets connected to switches?

If not you could use something like this

If they are you can use something like this

> tplink wifi switched

I like this, so far this seems great, and it does state "single pole" for switch type in the Amazon descriptions so should work I think since I only have two wires

I too am looking to do this (happy I found this).

I was having my gas fireplace serviced this morning and asked about it.

My wall switch for my fireplace has 2 switches. 1 switch is a low power switch to turn on the fireplace, while the 2nd is if I wanted to install a blower.

The guy said since it's a low power switch that want to control I would need to tap into the extra outlet (where there is already a constant flow of 110 amps) and use a Rib Enclosed Power Relay (about $20) to bring the constant power over to the outlet that i would like to control to light my fireplace.

This is the the RIB Enclosed Power Supply he recomended >
https://www.johnstonesupply.com/storefront/product-view.ep?pID=L39-100

and I was looking at this outlet on Amazon (as I don't already have a Home Automation Hub in my Home and can't think of a reason to install one just for this).

TP-Link Smart Wi-Fi Light Switch, No Hub Required, Single Pole, Control Your Fixtures From Anywhere, Works with Amazon Alexa (HS200)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3K3N85T4MQW0J&coliid=IR8FUGM8EHTY&psc=1

Let us know how it works out.

I've recently installed 4 of these, and will be installing 2 more: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Fixtures-Anywhere-HS200/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1480206517&sr=8-6&keywords=tp+link+smart+plug.

They are quick, easy, and work well with Alexa. The TP-Link app is easy to use as well.

I was thinking about a simple outlet for the TV/stereo but the harmony hub looks interesting. Thanks for the tip.

There's a bit of a problem with the light switch. I was thinking about something like this, but there aren't any available in Germany (The TP link switch costs 100€, instead of $40-50).

Hue doesn't make them. The ones I was looking at were made by TPlink, [Kasa](Kasa Smart Wi-Fi Light Switch by TP-Link - Control Lighting from Anywhere, Easy In-Wall Installation (Single-Pole Only), No Hub Required, Works With Alexa and Google Assistant (HS200) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XZxdBbTX77TQH).

Thanks for the input. Like this switch and this outlet?

this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EZV35QU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Try TP-Link. About $ 28 as well but very good and compatible with just about everything. Of course the dimmer is a bit more expensive.

​

Switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EZV35QU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Dimmer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079775ZZQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

The user guide and other PDFs are in the description.

​

I've had 3 regular switches and 1 dimmer installed for about 2 months now.

A timer like this one with a lamp plugged through it. The lamp would be ideally pointed straight at your face and be a 100-watt or equivalent.

Dude, buy her a socket timer and save both of you some stress:
https://www.amazon.com/Century-Indoor-24-Hour-Mechanical-Outlet/dp/B01LPSGBZS/ref=asc_df_B01LPSGBZS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167139094796&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1011593326816466711&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9021895&hvtargid=pla-307469470485&psc=1

I totally get it. Personally, as long as things don't get out of balance I try not to fret about screen time too much.

If you're really concerned I'd recommend getting a outlet timer. Say that the new rule is that the TV needs to go to sleep and can't wake up until noon or something. Say that we're making this decision together to make sure our minds and bodies grow and are healthy.

Then provide other things that he can use to entertain himself. Building sets, crafts, books, etc. He'll definitely find something when left to it. Remember how entertaining sticks were when left with nothing else? He'll adapt.

I too would recommend nest, very easy to set up and monitor.

Additionally, I would recommend one of the following: a smart outlet, a smart light switch, or a few manual timers ([similar to this] (https://www.amazon.com/Century-Indoor-24-Hour-Mechanical-Outlet/dp/B01LPSGBZS/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1537666467&sr=8-16&keywords=circuit+timer)). Then plug in a desk lamp or floor lamp in various rooms and set them to turn on/off at various times. Will simulate someone being at home.

It's hard to say but I'd suggest at least 3x a week if not daily, anywhere from 25-50%...it's more to make sure the water stays clean for the one with fin rot than anything. I wouldn't expect the bloom to last more than a few days. You can also turn the lights off for a day or two and see if it helps.

A plug-in timer would be something similar to this (I just randomly pulled this off Amazon so am not endorsing this product, just using as an example). I get them from Walmart/Target, usually found where the extension cords and power strips are kept.

It might be janky, but you could plug them into timers for the three outlets. Time each outlet to turn on long enough to charge and then turn off. You'd still have to see if you can charge 50 at a time. Something like this -- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LPSGBZS/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_ht2RCb0SECW8K

I've never had problems with this kind of basic and cheap mechanical timer - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LPSGBZS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_3elSCbFG61K6Z

Simple and as easy to program as it gets. Cheap enough that you can buy spares just in case.

GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Smart Light Switch
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AzXtDb8NM8BQF

Like others have said, the issue is more with space in the box behind the unit than it is side to side once you break off the heatsink tabs on the appropriate side. Here are a couple thoughts from my experience installing some a couple days ago:

1. Break off the tabs before connecting the wires to the switch. I forgot about the tabs on the first one I was doing until after I was ready to start screwing it back into the box. Also in a two-gang box you'll only need to break them off on the inward facing sides. On 3+ gang the central switches would need both sides done. Regardless, breaking them off before rather than after is much easier.
   
   
2. A good pair of pliers makes that much easier. I started out using a crappy pair of pliers from the toolkit that came as a "free gift" with the house because they happened to be closer at hand. The work could've been done with those pliers, but it became about 5 times easier and faster when I went out to the garage to get a better pair out of the toolbox.
   
   
3. On a couple of the switches I was working on, I noticed there was way more wire in the box than is actually needed. Normally I would be in favor of leaving excess extra in case it is needed for some future change, but a pair with a pair of wire cutters/strippers you can remedy much of the cursing other users are warning about when stuffing everything back in by removing some of the excess. Obviously only do that if you're confident you're leaving enough to work with both now and in the future.
   
   
4. Not related to the wiring, but I believe the one you linked to is not Z-wave Plus (just regular Z-wave). The Z-wave Plus version is available (looks like the same price right now, though the Plus version was actually slightly cheaper recently) here.
   
   
5. Also not related to wiring, but I've noticed there is a brief delay with the GE switches (I got the z-wave plus version, but I don't think that is the problem) between pressing it and the lights activating. This was even before connecting to any hub, so it's not a delay there. I'm assuming it's something I'll get used to in time, but it's worth being aware of before you buy them.

This one does double tap:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511215435&sr=8-3&keywords=Ge+zwave+switch&dpID=41orYO6Z%252BWL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Do you mean something like this? https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Required-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R

Most people use the Aotech Zwave dongle here: https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Z-Stick-Z-Wave-create-gateway/dp/B00X0AWA6E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537259191&sr=8-1&keywords=aotech+zstick&dpID=41%252BuCNE13iL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
You could also get a combination Zwave/Zigbee dongle for even less: https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-CECOMINOD016164-Linear-HUSBZB-1/dp/B01GJ826F8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537259245&sr=8-3&keywords=zigbee+dongle&dpID=41GzEBEgWSL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Alot of people start with Zwave or Zigbee controlled lights, but most people end up with Zwave switches instead, because humans need to also turn those devices on and off. The easiest Zwave switches/dimmers to acquire are the GE Line of Jasco switches, which are sold by https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Required-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1537259343&sr=8-2&keywords=ge+wave&dpID=51rDfQfpEAL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Do you think you'll use the features of the Hue bulbs? Like do you need the different colors or are you just looking to remotely control the lights?

I originally went with LIFX but decided that I didn't like the idea of having to replace every light bulb in my house with smart bulbs. Instead I've been opting for the GE Z Wave Plus switches and I've been loving them.

This way it doesn't matter what bulb is used, the whole switch is smart.

Why not just get a zwave dongle for your ha server and then a zwave ge switch?

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Extender-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R

https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Z-Stick-Z-Wave-create-gateway/dp/B00X0AWA6E

​

Have had this setup running for about 2 years now. I use the dimmers as well. I run HA in a docker on an unraid server without issues having it pickup the zwave stick.

The Z-Wave system is designed for interoperability, with management by a local hub that reaches out to the cloud as necessary. Hence there are many manufacturers, competitive pricing, interchangeable components, flexible control modalities. Also, a huge range of sensors, modules, controllers, locks, remote controls, and thermostats in addition to switches.

Wi-Fi smart devices are focused on ease of installation. Without standardized interfaces, the only way to offer remote control is through cloud management. Configuration and automation could be provided through a switch-hosted web server, but since the whole point is remote control and Echo/GH integration - and since the manufacturer has an eye on your data and your possible future income stream - the cloud solution wins. Wi-Fi power requirements means that in general these devices must be hardwired.

Non-cloud Kasa support requires an always-on computer running node.js, with manual device installation and static IP addresses everywhere. This is only an issue if TP-Link abandons the product or starts charging, in which case you have to decide whether it's worth the hassle...

I have a bunch of GE/Jasco switches and dimmers and one each of Leviton and Evolve - and also door/window sensors, motion sensors, thermostat, door lock, lamp modules, remotes, wall controllers, and garage door sensor.

The switches are all pretty much indistinguishable. GE/Jasco and HomeSeer 3-ways require a proprietary companion switch but you can dim from the companion and up always=on, down=off. Zooz and Inovelli 3-ways use your existing remote switch but no remote dimming and remote setting is random.

Yes. You can name the switches and control them by individual switch or control the entire room.

I use these: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Extender-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01MUCZA1C/

Zooz is the cheapest option as it lets you keep one of the 'dumb' switches. Problem is, the smart switch will always be up = on, down = off, while the dumb switch will alternate. If that doesn't bother you, they have cheap switches that function well. They're Z-wave btw.

Outside of that I have had zero issues with the GE Enbrighten (Z-wave and Z-wave plus versions) switches and dimmers. They're not the cheapest switch on the market and require a $20 'add-on' switch. But they function well.

Note: the 1st gen version of the GE switches are on sale at Amazon for $32. It's a good deal. It's not Z-wave plus, and there are some advanced features it lacks (double tap), but I have several sets and no issues.

Edit: scratch that, the ones labeled "1st gen" are what I'd consider 2nd, and they are Z-wave Plus. I'm not sure what the Second Gen (46203) is. Looks like just a shallower depth and some "quickwire" thing. People are also complaining about it not dimming LEDs. Stick with the "1st" gen 14294, it's a good dimmer and great price. Just picked up 3 more.

Edit 2: There's a combo pack with a 2nd gen dimmer and add-on for $47, which is damn good. Good enough it's worth looking into the new dimmer.

This one (Belkin WEMO) is WiFi and works with Alexa.

This one (GE Z-Wave) is Z-Wave and works with Alexa.

I'm a big fan of the GE wall switches. Dimmer Rocker Model

If you are eventually going to get more home automation products, than I’d suggest getting a Smartthings hub, and some [GE smart dimmers](https://www.amazon.com/New-Model-Wireless-Lighting-Wall/dp/B01MUCZA1C/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0QQMBN11VJPV61HY9D3P
). This is what I have and it works fine with my Harmony remote.

zwave

zigbee

I've only dipped my toe in HA myself. I have one of these that works quite reliably in conjunction with an Echo and a Wink hub:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUCZA1C

Note that this is a dimmer; you may/probably want just a simple switch, but GE has one of those, too.

There are also WiFi switches that don't require a hub if you don't want the hub.

And the 14294 Dimmer switches for $30.09

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUCZA1C/

Mostly a gimmick. A fun gimmick, but a gimmick nonetheless. It really depends on what your budget is. Is approx $20/bulb worth it for a novelty? For me, it was in a few places, but I probably wouldn't do it again. The temperature thing is now a must after having the color and the ambient. I hope to never go back to a single temp bulb again. That's worth $15 premium of the ambient over the cheap white ones.

Get the dimmer switches. 100% worth the money. Then put these guards over your current switches.

Philips Hue sells switches that are wireless. Can screw them onto the wall or use the included adhesive. I currently use one for a setup in my kitchen. Requires a Hue hub and a hue light, but might be a good solution.Amazon link

Had this same situation. The best solution for me was to buy a Philips Hue LED bulb and this switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076MGKTGS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xDFoDbRMBEXX5

This way I can leave my spotlight motion detector powered so it works when it's supposed to, but I can turn the porch light on and off as I want to and don't have to leave it on all the time.

Caseta makes a great product, I use them everywhere - both the smart dimmers, and switches, and also use their non-smart motion sensing switches.

Having said that, you can't use voltage switches with smart bulbs!

At least not the current generation, and since they need to maintain state non likely in the future unless the add non-volatile storage and that will get expensive.

You need to use a "virtual switch" of some type, one that basically sends data commands to the bulbs like your phone does. I have about 30 smart bulbs in my place and so believe me it's a sore spot.

The good news for you is that since you have Hue bulbs (too expensive for the number I wanted), you can use the Hue Dimmer Switch which is designed just for this purpose:

No wiring needed, just paste it to a wall somewhere and connect to your hue hub.

I use a combination of the Brilliant Switch and the SmartThings controller to kind of do the same things, but my bulbs are Tuya which doesn't have an integration yet, so it's a kludgy solution.

The easiest solution would be to go with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076MGKTGS/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_iTnJDbPWF33T2

The work great with the Hue bulbs and can be mounted on the wall like a regular switch. There are other similar options, but in my opinion these look the best and are the most user friendly. Might be a good interim solution even if you decide to get into a more sophisticated system like Smartthings or Home Assistant.

My girlfriend also hates using Alexa to control lights so I've done a similar thing and set presets for color and brightness based on time of day which greatly reduces how often she has to deal with the lights. Motion sensor that trigger simple lights like hallways and bathrooms work well too.

As an FYI - TRÅDFRI can pair with the Hue Bridge

Keep the trådfri bulbs but get a Hue Bridge instead of the Ikea hub. Then you can pair them with the hue dimmer switch. Works fine for me in my living room that doesn't have any physical switches.

https://www.amazon.com/Philips-Dimmer-Switch-Installation-Free-Exclusively/dp/B076MGKTGS/

I think you don't really grasp how the hue bulbs work. They need to have continuous power to operate, this allows them to turn on and off, dim and change colour.

If you power off the lamp, you're cutting off the power to the system in the bulb that controls it. It's like expecting your google home to work if you turn it off at the wall.

You have four options for physical switches, that vary in price from cheapest to most expensive.

1. IKEA Trådfri Dimmer - this will let you turn your light on and off and dim it. It can be a little fiddly and don't knock it in the night or it'll turn your lights on (this has happened with our cats)
   
   
2. IKEA Trådfri Switch - this lets you toggle the light on and off with a click and adjust brightness. The other two buttons won't do anything, but it's a cheap and reliable switch
   
   
3. Hue Wireless Dimmer - cheapest official hue switch. You can map scenes to presses of the on switch, and using other apps, you can create more complex behaviours based on press and hold etc
   
   
4. Hue Tap Switch - most expensive option, this switch requires no batteries, but allows you to map up to four different behaviours to each of the four switches. You can even set it to toggle scenes on and off to each button using Hue Labs.

We just used the Philips Hue Dimmer Switch. It only works with Hue, to my knowledge. It just attaches to the wall, it's battery powered and wireless. Blanked off the existing switch for the ceiling light.

Otherwise I'd recommend the Lutron Caseta, they require another proprietary hub but don't require neutral wires.

And yeah it's been quite a busy year so far. Hopefully it slows down for the holidays (yeah right... we're hosting apparently)

​

Edit: if you want to "smart" things up, get a Smartthings hub and motion sensor or door sensor. You can set your Hue lights to turn on automatically when the sensor detects you!

• LIFX are brighter, have bolder colors, and for a single light will cost less.
  
• People occasionally talk about having connectivity issues with LIFX, and I can't imagine having dozens of extra WiFi devices won't lead to some issues.
  
• Hue has a bigger ecosystem. It's been very popular for a long time. There are lots of third party integrations that can provide all sorts of stuff. I've never tried it but the Hue app has built in support for automations based on your location or time of day. LIFX might have these in the app, but without a hub I imagine they would need to be activated from your phone, which sometimes works well, but sometimes doesn't.
  
• Hue has a motion sensor and a couple of choices for wall switches that can be used just with the Hue hub. The very popular dimmer switch is only $25 USD, and currently on sale.
  
• I think to have a wall switch with LIFX you would need to have some sort of home automation hub in place like SmartThings/Wink/HomeKit/Indigo/etc. Or you might be able to get some sort of generic switch like the Logitech Pop (which requires its own hub) to trigger things through IFTTT.
  
• I think either Hue or LIFX color bulbs will provide good color shift. Both have pretty good quality light and light color. I expect some of the no-name bulbs you can find on Amazon would be pretty bad.
  
• I find the reviews from the Wirecutter to be useful to research this kind of thing.
  
  Edit: In terms of a switch to control it, either bulb can be turned off by the existing wall switch or lamp switch. Either can be turned on by the same switch, but at least with Hue's current firmware, it will revert to full brightness white, I don't know about LIFX. However if you do turn it off with one of those switches, there is no way to turn it back on with the app/voice assistant/etc. So when I talked about the switches above, I'm talking about smart switches.
  
  I don't think I was clear either that I think Hue might be the way to go. Of course you will get some bias towards Hue in /r/hue, but if you are concerned about reliability, automation, and control capabilities, I think Hue has more to offer.

Yes, the hue switch is a physical remote for the bulbs

https://www.amazon.com/Philips-Dimmer-Switch-Installation-Free-Exclusively/dp/B076MGKTGS

Even easier!

Buy a clapper and get to the office early one day and install it into the main power feed to his/her equipment. I think you know what to do from here.

And now I'll feel like a damn hell ass king instead of a lazy slob when using the Clapper.

[Try this](The Clapper, Wireless Sound Activated On/Off Light Switch (Clapper Original) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000CGKLR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2OxGDbRRKD5A2)

Just download the Clap App to your hand and its g2g!

https://www.amazon.com/Clapper-Activated-Detection-Appliances-Technology/dp/B0000CGKLR . 22% serious.

What year is it?


That took me all the way back to the 90's. I haven't gotten into using sensors with the pi, but it looks interesting

Are you dead set on snapping fingers? Or would a clap work? If so, try this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000CGKLR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZrYSCb1DRS58T

Would something like this work? Or does the lamp not turn on after being unplugged/powered off?

I had similar intentions with my laundry room at one point, so I understand where you are coming from, but you might re-consider a simple occupancy switch (https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Maestro-required-Single-Pole-MS-OPS2-WH/dp/B005WM3ALC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485316261&sr=8-1&keywords=MS-OPS2-WH). For me, the more I thought about it, the more I realized involving my HA system was simply making things more complicated than they needed to be for what I wanted to do.

I like these because you can still easily turn the lights off when you're done.

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Maestro-Required-Single-Pole-MS-OPS2-WH/dp/B005WM3ALC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1550262593&sr=8-3&keywords=lutron+motion+switch

try this

He means a non-SmartThings one, like this one

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Maestro-Required-Single-Pole-MS-OPS2-WH/dp/B005WM3ALC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498060276&sr=8-3&keywords=motion+sensor+switch

You’re talking about a jamb switch, but they don’t meet energy codes in my area. The issue that municipalities have with jamb switches is that if you don’t close the door then the light never goes off. If you put in a motion sensor with an automatic off then it will go off after a certain amount of time even if you don’t close the door. That’s really the best option. Technically motion sensors indoors don’t meet CA energy codes either because they don’t want lights automatically turning on anywhere in the house. They want you to physically hit the switch and then for it to time off. That is called an occupancy sensor. It’s actually required in closets and bathrooms.

But what you’d want is something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Maestro-Required-Single-Pole-MS-OPS2-WH/dp/B005WM3ALC/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?adgrpid=58685001040&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhfvT7I7-5AIVoyCtBh20jwIxEAAYASAAEgJHu_D_BwE&hvadid=274898185342&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9032130&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=11606527727516147700&hvtargid=kwd-296546370640&hydadcr=12164_10197800&keywords=switch+motion+sensor&qid=1570037880&sr=8-5

This is what I have in my laundry room.... Looks like they have an LED Dimmer version now too. I'm considering getting that for the bathroom...

Lutron Maestro Motion Sensor Switch, No Neutral Required, 250 Watts, Single-Pole, MS-OPS2-WH, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005WM3ALC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_M1MUDbYY3A2DX

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005WM3ALC/

Complex to set up, but works great!

[on/off switch ](GE Lighting Control On/Off Switch, Z-Wave, In-Wall, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12722 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_N.QGybF1J18NP)

[dimmer](GE Smart Dimmer, Z-Wave, In-Wall, 12724, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12724 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JaRGyb67MY877)

Here you go. You can switch the items on those pages to find the toggles as well as fan controls etc

Lutron Casseta has one, but that falls into the category of requiring a hub. However Alexa and Harmony can both control that hub.
I think the Aeontec micro dimmer switches can be wired up in a 3 way configuration. Just watch your power draw on them. However, you will need a z-wave hub to accommodate, which the harmony hub can't do by itself.
And I think these GE Switches should be capable of being wired in three way because they have a traveler wire. However, you will again need a hub to manager z-wave devices.

Yes, I have this working with my smart things and the non dimming one would work as well. As I understand it, the slightly more expensive ge ones are self reporting - meaning when you physically switch it, it updates the hub. GE Z-Wave Smart Dimmer (In-Wall), 12724 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-62LxbDYY3DQS

I've not seen any smart rotary dimmers on the market. Being that a smart switch is kind of a blend between a traditional switch and a way to push buttons, I'm not sure how a rotary would even work. It seems like it would be very difficult for the tactile knob and the digital settings to be in sync. I suppose it could be a spring driven resistance type thing, but idk.

For paddle type dimmers, there's tons of options, such as this - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2

So these switches don't work directly with Alexa? Why don't they just say that?

Edit: This one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2/?th=1 says specifically, "Compatable with the following Z-Wave certified Hubs: SmartThings, Pulse, Trane, Wink, Alexa..." Do I trust that?

Thanks for your feedback, it was incredibly helpful. So These are the switches I will get since the lights I got for my rooms are LED Dimmable. I'll get the smart things hub as well to interact between the switch and my echo, but what do I use to program all the details. For example how do I get alexa to recognize "bedroom 1" name when I talk to her and have her interact with it. Is there a software program I use to manage all these devices and name them, etc?

Also, my light switches do not have a ground since the house is older, so I'll have to have an electrician come out and figure out a way to install these switches

Setting up an automation system in your house requires 3 different areas:

1. Controlled "appliances"
   
   
2. A hub
   
   
3. A controller
   
   I am being specifically vague when I say controlled appliances because this group is vast and varried. You can have smart light bulbs, smart light switches, smart wall outlets, smart thermostats, various sensors, security cameras, and the list goes on and on.
   
   All of these appliances will have a communication system such as z-wave or wifi that allows it to connect to the hub and be controlled virtually.
   
   These can be extremely expensive, but most have gotten relatively cheap. For instance, the light switches I have are about $40 each. So, for about $40 per room you can completely automate the lights of your entire house.
   
   The Hub is simply a device that connects to all of the above appliances and allows you to control them virtually. I have a smartthigns hub. I really like it, but there are several other options that you can use. All have their benefits and drawbacks.
   
   As said above, the main job of the hub is to be the connection/control point for all of your appliances. The secondary bit is that each hub has a control OS that you interface with as a controller for your system. This will take two forms. First form is an app you can install on a tablet or smartphone that will allow you to set up routines or directly control every single connected appliance from wherever you are in the world. The second form (not on every hub) is a simple programming interface that gives you powerful customizing options to how you want to control your system. If you can imagine it (and code it) you can do it, pretty much.
   
   The controller group is also where the echo fits in. You don't need an echo, but it is an amazing addition. Typically having a smart system just meant you could control everything on cool customized timers, virtually from everywhere in the world, and from a centralized "remote" in your house instead of having to go to each device. With the echo you can skip the tablet "remote" all together and just speak to your house and it listens.
   
   I highly recommend diving into the world of an automated system. It is only a couple hundred dollars to get started and you can slowly build your system out over time. Check out /r/homeautomation for some more info too.

Samsung smartthings hub is on sale on amazon for a great price, and then you can get a GE zwave dimmer to go with it. Perhaps this is controversial to say in the IFTTT sub but i would add the switch to google home directly from the smartthings hub, which allows you to talk more naturally about your lights and avoids having to hard code a bunch of variations in IFTTT.

yeah, that's not normal. 6 LED bulbs definitely shouldn't overload a dimmer switch (a quick look at the dimmer switch data sheet says it should handle 150W of LED load), but an easy way to test is to unscrew all but one of them and see if that single bulb has full dimming range. You might also take one of these bulbs and put it in a normal switched light socket, and see if it goes to full brightness.

If the flickering is happening to all the bulbs at the same time, it's almost certainly the dimmer switch. All 6 bulbs having an identical flaw seems pretty unlikely. The flicker indicates it's not a software issue with your Vera, either.

Both the GE zwave dimmers and the Linear/2gig zwave dimmers work pretty well and are about the same price as that dragon tech dimmer. It's also possible your dragon tech dimmer is just a one-off lemon and the brand itself is generally fine.

Is that the same thing as this? But just branded for iris? If so, I may be interested!

I think you would have to use a dry contact switch. Like this


But I’m not 100%

As others said, most likely you'd add a z-wave dry contact switch like this one if you have a z-wave hub. That's the best solution I know of and you'd be just side-stepping the current RF function. There's good info in the reviews there about how to actually do this as well.

Here is the guide I used to do this last fall:
http://thedataist.com/off-topic-how-to-automate-your-gas-fireplace/

Here is a link to the relay you will need:
Remotec Zwave Dry Contact Fixture Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00913ATFI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NFlDzbMX9NS25

Good luck!

I suspect that's part of it, and it's definitely worth it to me. The signal input is very flexible. I suspect the other part is Z-wave is a proprietary protocol and requires license. Finally, it's not exactly a high-volume device.

I think the mimolite is way more polished than other options. I wish their marketing would have more examples highlighting the possibilities. It can trigger on power loss, it can trigger when voltage is within a certain configurable range, or outside of a certain configurable range, it can use the signal to toggle the relay locally, it can use the signal to control other devices, it can be polled for signal or report on a configurable timed basis.

I have 2 of these, one for my garage door ( http://imgur.com/a/db2tQ ) and one for my doorbell ( http://imgur.com/a/fzUE3 )

Sure, this could have also done this with an AVR and an esp8266 for some awesome franken-MQTT device, but until I can set up a bench, this is much easier and faster to set up... and much easier to recommend.

If you just need a z-wave dry contact relay, there are other less pricey options. These would be great for something like low voltage zoned lighting, a fireplace, or electronic shut-off valve.

http://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Z-Wave-Isolated-Contact-Fixture/dp/B00ER6MH22

http://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI/

An important feature these options lack is a mode for momentary contact, which is handy when interfacing with buttons like a garage door, electric latch, or gate controller.

I did this exact thing with the Remotec Z-Wave relay.

I used this https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI/ref=mp_s_a_1_7 because I had it laying around, and it fit nicely (since I was replacing a simple one gang wall switch).

If I was doing it again today from scratch? Well, I went poking around Amazon, and was depressed that I didn't see anything cheaper or demonstrably better. One useful feature of the module I used is that there's a button on the front that will activate the relay if you don't/can't activate it through home automation

Disabled gamer here. I have my own cab which is designed for someone of my short stature to use. I'd offer blueprints but we made it over a decade ago and I don't think it'd work for wheelchairs, anyway.

I can add a suggestion for the PC inside it, though. If you get a PC that boots up on power events, you can have a wireless remote control power socket handle booting up the cab and getting it ready to go. No futzing around with switches behind the cabinet or anything like that. I've got one of these and it works great, I click a button on the small remote control and a minute later I'm in my front-end and gaming.

I'd also suggest checking out my spreadsheet of PC games with cabinet support and accompanying video as they may be relevant. Steam has a lot of games which can work well with limited and rebindable controls, for both cabinets and disabilities alike... but a few landmines where games that look like they should work are a complete pain to configure.

Lastly, consider checking out AbleGamers, a nonprofit dedicated to doing exactly what you're doing -- adapting controls and game systems for disabled access.

Happy gaming!

OP, if you can't find a solution I got myself a pair of these and they work great. Just click them on before I'm about to start VR and you're good to go.

I got a set of these and they work well. Might be something to consider.

I got these.

There is less than no reason for the outlet part to be that big.

Hmm, that's weird. I haven't had an issue at all with a noise.

If I was having that issue, I'd probably get one of those cheap remote control outlet things. Then you could just click them on wirelessly when you want to fire up SteamVR. Not ideal though, if HTC had better customer service I'd tell you to try to exchange them for ones that work normally. But god knows that'll be more trouble than help.

I use these. The only problem with them is if the power goes out, they do not turn themselves back on. I don’t worry about this as my pumps are on a battery backup that will last ~90 hours before they die.

How about Etekcity rf controlled ac plugs?

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQ2KGNK

Before using those TPLink things, which are $35 per outlet, if you have HomeAssistant installed on a Raspberry Pi you can use the cheaper 433mhz remote controlled plugs + a radio for the Pi.

Here's a set of 3 plugs that I bought.
(Here is similar on amazon.ca, which probably will work)

and here's a radio (I've heard that the cheaper ones work less well, and you should find a "superheterodyne" one, which I can't find on amazon.ca -- maybe aliexpress or ebay if you can wait?)

and the rpi-rf home assistant configuration:
https://home-assistant.io/components/switch.rpi_rf/

Your suggested more expensive switch can probably be polled to see if they're on or off, and probably confirms a state change. This solution the communication is one way and hope-it-works. My experience is it is working most of the time - there is the occasional missed command.

may be you are looking for something like this

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Household-Appliances-Unlimited-Connections/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/

https://www.amazon.com/JTD-Auto-programmable-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B013F9JJ72

It is US though and it smart plug.

Alternatively, you could do something like this

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Household-Appliances-Unlimited-Connections/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_421_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=DV89V83YHJHXVDBEVMD5

Either use one per machine or just get 1 and plug a power strip into it.

Number of machines has a few factors, basically will all boil down to the amp draw per machine. I would guess 2.5-3amps is probably a safe number to assume, and that's probably a pretty pessimistic number for the most part. If you have a 15A breaker, you could have 5 machines give or take on one circuit.

Realistically, most are probably in the 2A area. But give yourself some room and don't instantly max out a circuit.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use these

You don't even need a hub to make that work. Here is the kit you need:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJY0S4G/

You'll also want the wall adapter for the remote.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JZRAFEA/

The remotes have a 10 year battery life and the battery is easy to change.

I'm a big fan of Lutron. Their in-wall and plug-in dimmers can work without a hub. Then if you eventually decide you want Homekit and other such features, you can easily add in a hub.

In-wall dimmer: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-600-watt-150-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G

Plug-in dimmer: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Caseta-Wireless-Dimmer-300-watt/dp/B00JJY1QG0

https://www.amazon.com/Basic-Wireless-Light-Switch-Kit/dp/B005B0AY0K

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JJY0S4G/ref=mp_s_a_1_37?ie=UTF8&qid=1467694453&sr=8-37&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=wireless+light+switch

https://m.canadiantire.ca/#/products/productDetail/0527544P/false/false/false?utm_campaign=bazaarvoice&utm_medium=SearchVoice&utm_source=RatingsAndReviews&utm_content=Default&quantity=1

The Lutron Caseta in wall dimmer does not need a neutral connection and can be controlled from a very small RF remote, or from a smart phone using Staples Connect, the Wink hub, or Lutron's own bridge & app.


Full disclosure, I work for Lutron and wrote the software inside that family of dimmers.

So tempted. If this is the right one, the Lutron Caseta Dimmer itself is like $60 at Amazon

I just wish they weren't purging the Wink v1 and gave us a v2 instead.
ninja edit

So it sounds like I'd need to buy this from Amazon...

Then wire the switch itself in place of my current 'line' switch (in the rear entryway which does not have a neutral available), and the remote in the place of the 'load' switch (dining room that does have neutral available), correct? What needs to be done with the wires that will have been formerly used to supply the 'line' switch?

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-600-watt-150-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G

http://www2.meethue.com/en-us/productdetail/philips-hue-dimmer-switch

https://www.amazon.com/P-PKG1W-WH-Wireless-600-watt-150-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1505917955&sr=8-2&keywords=lutron+caseta+dimmer

This device wires into one switch. The second switch is a remote control that can either be mounted in a box (no wiring, it's RF) or used like any other remote. I saw it on a This Old House video.

https://www.amazon.com/Caseta-Wireless-Lighting-Ceiling-P-PKG1W-WH/dp/B00JJY0S4G/ref=sr_1_3?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1527002725&sr=1-3&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A2800162011

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uBtFpmDkQus

Is there already existing power wiring for a z-wave switch? If not, you might need to wallmount a battery operated MiniMote or something like that.

If you're not stuck on Z-Wave you might want to look at Lutron's dimmers with their Pico Remote which can be mounted in a low voltage single gang old work bracket and covered with a decora plate for a nice looking wireless install. Same with their connected bulb remote which I'm using for a couple of Cree Connected bulbs.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JJY0S4G/ref=pd_aw_fbt_60_img_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=86N3WGD52NQ4GTPN2MDD

You'll find the single gang bracket for the Pico Remote in the related items.

Edit: I realize there are a few Z-Wave battery operated buttons, however if you want something that looks more like a lighting controller, something geared more towards a high WAF, I think the Lutron products are your best bet.

Can likely use same wall plate for Lutron Caseta

For Pico remotes you need to get a wall bracket to install in gang box (can use same wall plate)

https://www.amazon.com/Caseta-Wireless-Wallplate-Bracket-PICO-WBX-ADAPT/dp/B00JZRAFEA

There are a whole bunch of options available. I just listed 3 below:

https://www.amazon.com/iDevices-Wall-Switch-Required-Single/dp/B06Y5G7XPJ/ref=sr_1_5?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1511056280&sr=1-5&keywords=idevices&dpID=41mQiJ8aAOL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch


https://www.amazon.com/LUTRON-PD-6WCL-WH-Caseta-Wireless-Dimmer/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1511056299&sr=8-1-spons&ppw=fresh&keywords=lutron%2Bcaseta%2Bdimmer&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-DW1KD-1BZ-Incandescent-Required-Assistant/dp/B01MS6JDUW/ref=sr_1_9_f_f_it?s=amazonfresh&ie=UTF8&qid=1511056365&sr=1-9&ppw=fresh&keywords=levitron%2Bdimmer%2Bswitch&th=1

We had twinkle lights. Everywhere. Hooked up to a clapper, actually. It was fantastic.

https://www.amazon.com/Clapper-Sound-Activated-Switch-Each/dp/B0000CGKLR

[You need one these good sir/madam.](http://www.amazon.com/Clapper-Sound-Activated-Switch-Each/dp/B0000CGKLR "What's that, Marge? I can't hear you! I'm clapping!")

There are wifi enabled plugs that can be controlled via an app.

Or, just get a clapper

The motherfucking clapper.
CLAP ON BITCH

Amazon? http://www.amazon.com/Clapper-Sound-Activated-Switch-Each/dp/B0000CGKLR/ref=sr_1_1?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1450366349&sr=1-1&keywords=The+clapper.....also maybe any hardware store like True Value or B & G's.

1. Purchase The Clapper
   
2. Attach The Clapper to PC
   
3. ???
   
4. PROFIT!!!

or use clapping

but investing in that is probably stupid because when you pay $10 per outlet you could just upgrade to full home automation anyway

http://www.amazon.com/The-Clapper-Sound-Activated-Switch/dp/B0000CGKLR

Here ya go

Or how about just by clapping? ;)

May I suggest that ?

http://www.amazon.com/The-Clapper-Sound-Activated-Switch/dp/B0000CGKLR

But I can't whistle! D: Also, there's this thing that's similar.

Yes, thats possible.

Basically, you're setting up a rule in Smartthings under the "Smart Lights" smartapp that says, turn on <GE switch> when motion is detected with <motion sensor>.

Alternatively, I would recommend using Lutron motion sensor (https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Maestro-required-Single-Pole-MS-OPS2-WH/dp/B005WM3ALC). It's just cheaper and does the same thing.

While I do have plenty of GE zwave switches and Hue bulbs throughout my house, I have those Lutron motion switch in my garage, pantry, laundry room, bathrooms, etc.. I dont need those rooms to be smart--just need to turn on when motion is detected.

edit: missed the part that said the switch is inside the house. The first option is best for your use case.

I used these. They work great so far!

http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Maestro-required-Single-Pole-MS-OPS2-WH/dp/B005WM3ALC?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00

I used these for all motion sensor switches and these for the humidity sensor fan switches.

Have you considered motion sensor switches? I tried the smart switch route but found no neutral and switched to using motion sensor switch instead.
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Maestro-Required-Single-Pole-MS-OPS2-WH/dp/B005WM3ALC

Do you have a switch in the closet? Or just power for a light like a pull chain?

If you have a switch, install a motion sensing light switch

If you just have a pull chain/bare socket...install one of these

Does each area have its own switch? If so, forget automation with door sensors. Grab a PIR switch, such as

http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Maestro-required-Single-Pole-MS-OPS2-WH/dp/B005WM3ALC

No reason to over complicate it

It's not really smarthome, but lutron makes switches that do that. It's the vacancy option.

Basically they have two settings. Occupancy will turn lights on when they detect motion. Vacancy requires you to turn them on, but turns them off after a period of no motion.

Lutron Maestro Sensor switch, 2A, No Neutral Required, Single-Pole, MS-OPS2-WH, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005WM3ALC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_smS7Bb8Q8CAKA

If you have a zwave hub this GE switch has the proper modes to turn off but not on.

GE Z-Wave Plus Smart Lighting Control Motion Sensor Dimmer Switch, In-Wall, Vacancy / Occupancy Sensor, White & Light Almond Buttons, Zwave Hub Required- Works with SmartThings Wink & Alexa, 26933 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071Y38FX5

If you don’t want it to integrate with a hub, the below can do what you want in the proper mode.

Lutron Maestro Sensor switch, 2A, No Neutral Required, Single-Pole, MS-OPS2-WH, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005WM3ALC

I want something like this https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Maestro-Required-Single-Pole-MS-OPS2-WH/dp/B005WM3ALC

Yea it's pretty standard for that time period. People will still do it now. Basically the "feed" is at the light location and they ran a single Romex cable to the switch location. Switch boxes were smaller back then so it was even more motivation to do it that way so less wires would be at switching locations.

You can either find an occupancy sensor that doesn't require a neutral to operate like this or rewire.

would this work?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005WM3ALC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uK9azbEYSWR72

In my 30 seconds of googling, Occupancy sensors looks like what I want.

I like these http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-MS-OPS2-WH-Maestro-Single-Occupancy/dp/B005WM3ALC

unless someone has a better idea.

Both of your examples are good examples of overthinking things, in my opinion. I bet you have switches on both sides of your family room - on one side, you can get to the dining room lights and on the other, to the kitchen lights. So if you have one central "fancy" switch, now what - you're going to manage your kitchen lights on the way from the dining room? It's ok to use a regular switch when it makes sense. And your basement example is almost identical to my front entrance and all I did was put in a motion sensor switch and now the lights turn on when I open the door and turn off after a few seconds of no motion (that config won't work for basement but you can get one that turns off at the top with a physical switch). Something like this (not exactly what I have) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005WM3ALC/

I've put these in rooms I use the most & they are great.
Something like these. Lutron Maestro Sensor Switch, 2 Amp, No Neutral Required, Single-Pole, MS-OPS2-WH, White https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B005WM3ALC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TGBUDbAGK76S9 (note the Canadian prices)

I have that motion light thing in my garage, it works when it wants to, it has several blind spots.
I'd go with something like this

http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-MS-OPS2-WH-Maestro-Single-Occupancy/dp/B005WM3ALC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381036151&sr=8-1&keywords=lutron+motion+sensor+light+switch

I have that in my laundry room and it is way more reliable.

Or this Lutron only rated for 2Amps.
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Maestro-Required-Single-Pole-MS-OPS2-WH/dp/B005WM3ALC/ref=pd_rhf_dp_s_cp_0_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B005WM3ALC&pd_rd_r=THVXV6CTVR7TXZMKASJA&pd_rd_w=WY7tS&pd_rd_wg=LLcvE&psc=1&refRID=THVXV6CTVR7TXZMKASJA

Actually, if you already have a light install something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005WM3ALC

$20 solution that is a motion sensor for your closet light, best thing I've ever done. I can walk into the closet, light comes on, then goes off after 60 seconds to 10 minutes depending on the setting.

Honestly if all you are wanting is the lights to turn on when someone walks in the room you may be better off not going with a smart solution. You can do what you want with Hue bulbs.

There are also a number of bulbs with motion sensors built in. I've never used one personally, so I'd do more research to see how it knows when to turn off.

https://top10perfect.com/top-best-motion-sensor-light-bulbs-reviews/

But your best and cheapest solution might be this.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005WM3ALC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486211121&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=vacancy+sensor+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=31E-2BSEFmL&ref=plSrch

I know you said you were worried about messing with wiring, but honestly in most homes (I'm assuming you are in America, excuse my assumption if you are not) to change out a switch you literally turn off the breaker that switch is on, unscrew the cover, take out two more screws that hold the switch against the wall and then there are two wires going to the switch. Take those out and put them in the new switch and reverse the process. It is insanity simple in most cases.

Anyways, hope that's helpful. Let me know if you have any more questions.

What about installing two of these, one at the top switch and one at the bottom? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005WM3ALC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then, configure the setting to turn on by motion but turn off after 1, 5, or 15 minutes if no movement is detected. You can still press the button to manually turn on if needed.

Under cabinets look great (as you noted), and work great when they are on.

​

I think the reason people don't use them is because they are not typically wired to a switch on old houses; and/or hot bulbs overheat and damage themselves.

​

The solution is LED lights, triggered by a sensor like this or this that turn them on and off for you. LED don't overheat much, and the sensor turns them off, and on, for your convenience and safety.

Unless you want redundancy, your thermostat can be your freeze sensor. The ecobee will send out temperature notifications and it also supports high/low thresholds on IFTTT if you're into that.

Also, look into motion sensing light switches. I use them in bathrooms and closets and they suit me well. They're a pretty cheap way to get some additional convenience.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005WM3ALC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00

You have a few options, you can use traditional z-wave devices and then pair them to a remote like the Aeon Labs minimote and operate them that way (no hub required). I also discovered that GE has a bluetooth switch that you can program and operate remotely with your phone but looks like you don't want to use a phone.

Edit: as /u/gurase mentioned Lutron has a system that will work too.

I'd suggest:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Dimmer-Z-Wave-12724-Amazon/dp/B006LQFHN2/

https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSA03202-v1-Minimote/dp/B00KU7ERAW/

and if you get a hub later, you can still use these devices so that is a plus.

White is the neutral. Three wires would be black (hot), white(neutral) and the bare copper (ground).
When you would see more wires is for a 3-way light switch or a ceiling fan with a light where you may see a red wire.


Last week I installed a 3-way switch using the GE switches(Dimmer and Add-on). It was quite a hassle for a non-electrician because there are so many possible wiring configurations. I had to bust out my multi-meter and do some trial and error for over an hour to determine the hot, neutral, line, load and two travelers.
In my case the hot and neutral were in two different switch boxes but luckily I had another switch in that same box that had a neutral (they all go back to the same place, neutral bus bar)

This is going to format like shit because I'm copying it straight from an email I wrote my sister.
The important bits: the hub is Samsung Smartthings, switches are mostly GE zwave switches, voice control provided by Amazon Echo.
Rolling it out across the whole house isn't easy or cheap, but it's worth it when you have someone over and you give the "turn on everything" command and you watch every light pop on, then do it in reverse.
This will get you started :)
>
> Switches: http://www.amazon.com/GE12722-Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0035YRCR2
>
> Add-on Switches (for 3+ way): http://www.amazon.com/GE-12723-Add-On-Switch/dp/B00RKJS8MQ
>
> Dimmer:  http://www.amazon.com/GE-Z-Wave-Dimmer-In-Wall-12724/dp/B006LQFHN2
>
> Fan: http://www.amazon.com/GE-12730-Z-Wave-Smart-Control/dp/B00PYMGVVQ
>
> SmartThings: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Hub-2nd-Generation/dp/B010NZV0GE
>
> Door Locks: http://www.amazon.com/Schlage-Connect-Camelot-Touchscreen-Deadbolt/dp/B00AGK9KOG/ref=lp_511306_1_2?s=hardware&ie=UTF8&qid=1461284077&sr=1-2
>
> Thermostat:  http://www.amazon.com/Nest-Learning-Thermostat-Generation-Works/dp/B0131RG6VK/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1461284145&sr=1-2&keywords=thermostat+smart
>
> Echo (for voice control): http://www.amazon.com/Amazon-SK705DI-Echo/dp/B00X4WHP5E/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1461284177&sr=1-1&keywords=echo
>

There are other things like motion sensors and garage door controllers that start opening up some really cool "routines."

This one shows 500W but it says nothing about Halogen. I have no idea if there needs to be a differentiation?

http://www.amazon.com/GE-Z-Wave-Smart-Dimmer-12724/dp/B006LQFHN2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462298941&sr=8-1&keywords=ge+zwave+dimmer

Does this allow it to work as a dimmer, or just as a binary switch?

The Amazon page says it's NOT WINK compatible

But name-brand GE is cheaper?

This is the one I've been using:

GE Z-Wave Smart Dimmer (In-Wall), 12724 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5LzDxbDAQFFY3

Most old dimmers would make my lights flicker or buzz... and this was back when only incandescent bulbs could be dimmed. It's not anything to worry about, but it's definitely annoying. It really depends on the type of bulb as some are worse than others.

Newer LED bulbs may humm similarly when dimmed though some will blink. I have several completely quiet ones but I also have several that say they are dimmable but don't dim that much until you get down to 40% and they definitely hum past that. Though the buzz isn't nearly as loud as I remember incandescent bulbs with x10 dimmers. I'm using the GE zwave dimming wall switches.

Check the reviews of any bulbs you're interested in and make sure others mention how well they work with dimmers. I have a handful of "dimmable" bulbs that will dim, but start blinking or buzz when they get low. But I got them because they were cheap and didn't do my research.

the beauty of the z-wave light switches is that if somebody turns off the light by hand, you can always switch it back on with automation. so you'll always be able to control the hues from automation app.
[these ge switches](GE Z-Wave Smart Dimmer, In-Wall, 12724 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KEO3xbHRNDQBB)

another reason i went with z-wave switches is that i can mix and match my bulb types. some fixtures can be plain led bulbs and still have on/off or dimming capability via the switch.

the velcro solution is a neat one and i'd probably end up doing just that if i was in an apt or unwilling to spend extra money.

??? any dimmer or on off GE switch can be made into a 3 way as long as you add the add-on switch or dimmers. there is a piece of tape on the back that covers the traveler you take off. PM me if you have questions ...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2

I'm technically savvy but more on the software side than the hardware side. I was geared up to do it myself until I started reading about 3-phase light switches (when you have more than one switch that controls a set of lights) and then it started to go over my head with load, line, neutral, etc...I figured: "Hey, I don't wanna burn my house down. Let's leave this to the pros."


I've done a ton of research but there is so much information out there that the more you look the less you know. I was looking at the GE 12724 but I'm open to recommendations as well.


I do know I'll be using the Samsung SmartThings hub for the brains of the whole thing. I'll likely tie in a Logitech Harmony hub in there too along with a Google Home for voice activation.


Thanks!

it might work, but it certainly isnt officially compatible. lutron holds a patent, and the 45612 expressly states it's for incandescent use only. actually, all of them are 'for incandescent use'.

edit: sorry, man, this one got under my skin, and is why crowd sourced information is both awesome and awful at the same time. for anyone else reading, DO NOT use incandescent dimmer switches to dim LED bulbs. most will end up with bulbs that buzz and flicker while dimmed, and the dim level won't be consistent. with that said, it is possible to get them working as long as you have enough LED bulbs strung together to get above the typical load limit (20/30W, maybe higher) for an incandescent dimmer to operate properly. but don't do it, it's just bad practice.

well, shit. i didnt know this existed. if this is what you were talking about, my bad, you're right.

GE 12724

i guess not, that requires a neutral.

Thank you for taking the time to reply, every bit of help is appreciated.

Maybe you can clarify. I have two GE 12724's. Just focusing on the 'master', near the breaker first- I only have three connections and ground, not four. If you look at the second picture here, the fourth connection is covered, and says 'no 120V'.

Secondly, and less importantly, can I used a second 12724 as a slave? I can always replace it later on with an aux switch, I'd just like to have light for the time being at least. Worst case, I do have a manual three way I could toss in for the time being too.

Lastly, god forbid I made the connections incorrectly, are these switches prone to burning out with swapped line and load, or do they simply (and I imagine more likely) just not work?

GE / Jasco dimmer switches, ~$40 on Amazon, a few bucks less without the dimmer function.

Plug and play zwave functionality, just make sure there is a neutral wire.

I'm controlling incandescents, halogen, LEDs and I think at least one CFL with them and had no issues with the switches.

I am using a SmartThings hub to control them, FWIW.

EDIT: There is a zigbee version as well, though I think they are harder to find.

EDIT 2: Just to be clear, you don't HAVE to use the SmartThings hub to control them, you can just tap on the switch and it works like any other paddle dimmer, it just provides the option of controlling via zwave.

IMO it's not hard at all.

Three wires, two screws and a pretty plate to snap into place. The only difficulty I've run into is being short of space in the box.

I use these in my house.
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Dimmer-Z-Wave-12724-Amazon/dp/B006LQFHN2

Doubtful. You would have to have something that would control the output to the light.

Here's a dimmable smart switch.

I think you are looking for a paddle switch so the light switch doesn't have to be on the "on" position all the time. I see a lot of people use this https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1482999401&sr=1-4&keywords=Ge+paddle or this https://www.amazon.com/GE-Dimmer-Z-Wave-12724-Amazon/dp/B006LQFHN2 I can't speak for Hue or LIFX and Nest because I think they use their own standard (not z-wave so it doesn't play well with smartthings) other than if you would like to change light colors. If I had a clean slate, I would stick with one standard, z-wave products.

Unless I'm misunderstanding, is this similar to what you're looking for? http://www.smarthome.com/ge-45609-z-wave-wireless-lighting-control-on-off-wall-switch.html

There are large number of switches like that available.

You'll need some kind of hub to get them to work though. I don't think you can with just the hue hub.. but you can use Smarthings or whatever.

Then you can tell the switch to be on or off, which would then turn the bulbs on or off.

They also make dimmers: http://www.amazon.com/GE-Z-Wave-Dimmer-In-Wall-12724/dp/B006LQFHN2

Home depot, lowes, amazon, and everywhere else sells both types.

If you currently have two switches, one for the fan and one for the light, you can get these. I have this setup in my living room and it's pretty sweet. You just need to set up the fan switch as a dimmer so that you can remotely adjust the fan speed just like you would a dimmer.

GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed

GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Dimmer Switch

I like the GE Z-wave smart dimmer paddle. I've installed 4 of them and 2 add-on switches for the three way switches. No issues so far, they were easy to install, the videos they have on YouTube are very easy to follow. I set up a price alert on amazon for these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006LQFHN2/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and nabbed them when they got down to $33 each, which is about the best price I've seen.

I used this article for some cursory info on switches, and went with these in the end:

GE Smart Dimmer, Z-Wave, In-Wall, 12724

The price was good for how many switches I was installing, and I like them a lot except for two minor things:

1. The lights fade on/off a bit too slowly for my liking. This however can be changed by altering a setting from your Z-Wave hub, though I haven't had time to fiddle with that yet.
   
   
2. The rocker doesn't depress all the way, it sort of stops half-way and clicks. Most people won't care about this or probably even notice it, but it's a minor pet-peeve of mine.
   
   I also got a SmartThings Kit to control them while it was on sale for $100 off for Black Friday (it was the lowest price they've ever sold for, but it's currently $50, which is still pretty good). You can also just get the hub, but I wanted some sensors so the kit made sense to me.
   
   I wish the Hue Hub was a bit more robust, but sadly it can't be used directly in conjunction with any known in-wall switches. However, You can add Hue bulbs to SmartThings, so that can wind up being a central place to manage things.
   
   Personally, I also setup Home Assistant which lets me do a lot more with other product APIs, and lets me control the UI to some extent as well. Be warned though that it does require some understanding of code and servers. I setup the Home Assistant MQTT Bridge for SmartThings so it can talk to my ST Hub, and use it for automation instead of SmartThings. Hypothetically you can just get a Z-Wave USB stick for your Home Assistant server in lieu of something like SmartThings and have it act as a hub directly, but I felt getting a ST Hub was easier.
   
   Finally, I also got a Google Home while it was on sale, and used IFTTT to create custom commands so I can trigger scenes in Home Assistant for things like watching a movie on my projector, watching TV, getting ready for bed, etc. I also want to have it automatically turn the projector and TV on eventually as part of the scene, but haven't had time to play with that yet.
   
   It was a little annoying to setup, but I like it a lot now that everything's humming along.

Thanks -- that's helpful. Do you have any z-wave relays that you've used in the past? I've used the Remotec switch before, but if there's something else out there that's better, would love to know.

Great to hear! Was thinking I needed something like this for the low voltage:

Remotec Zwave Dry Contact Fixture Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00913ATFI

Here's the gist of it:

1. Buy this switch.
   
2. Pair it to your Wink hub by setting it up as a "generic Z-Wave binary switch." During this process, the pairing will succeed but the in-app wizard will stall out. Cancel out of the wizard and you'll see it in the lights section as an unknown/unnamed device.
   
3. Rename the switch to "Fireplace" or whatever you want.
   
4. Rediscover the Wink devices via the Alexa app.
   
   As for the cosmetics, others have alluded that the switch plate covers will not fit. However, the thread pitch is the same and so you should be able to get one screw to thread properly. I used a blank wall plate and covered the inside with black duct tape because the blinking blue LED on the switch was making me crazy when I'd watch movies. I used the top screw to hold the plate onto the Remotec switch, and then took a second screw and used a Dremel to grind it down to just the head of the screw, then glued that onto the lower screw hole on the wall plate. It looks like both screws are in, but in reality it's just the top one holding it in place.

Remotec Zwave Dry Contact Fixture Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00913ATFI

Garage doors work by shorting the door wires for a moment to command the door. You could use this to accomplish that to open and close a door. You'd need a tilt sensor to know your door position and figure out the logic in HA. If you tell Alexa to close the door, and it's closed, do nothing.

I'm just a random person on the internet, research it yourself.

How about rigging his chair with an Echo Dot (gen 2). Gen 2 is cheaper and has USB power so you can power from either the chair or a Mophie juice pack. Tethered to his phone for connectivity so he can take Alexa with him when he goes out?

For the garage door ...If chamberlain didn’t suck by not providing a free skill I’d suggest the MyQ for about $60. However maybe can figure out another way to open and close by voice. If he already has a Zwave hub like SmartThings wonder if you could use this relay, along with a linear actuator to press the garage button using voice. Create a routine: when I say Alexa open garage, turn on relay, which powers the actuator and presses the button. Seems like this would work and now I kind of want to find a button to press at my house to try it. Can vouch for this working just throwing out some ideas for people to weigh in on.

Remotec Zwave Dry Contact Fixture Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00913ATFI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YBn7BbX000B54

ECO-WORTHY 12V 2 Inch Stroke Linear Actuator 330lbs Maximum Lift with Mounting Brackets (12VDC 2'') https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NM8H5TG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lRn7Bb3459MZV

Maybe check this Remotec Zwave Dry Contact Fixture Module. It's reported as compatible. Here's a thread where someone is using it to control a fireplace: https://www.reddit.com/r/Abode/comments/5qe8up/zwave_fireplace_control/

This is the one I am about to order. Check out the reviews. Lots of pictures from people who have hooked it up.

Edit: Looks like it's out of stock and no idea when it's coming back. :(
But at least it looks like the one wgbm linked hooks up about the same way.

I've read that in so many reviews. Ideally, I'd like to set it up exactly as you describe, but instead of training my dogs to utilized said button, I'd like to control it via zwave. Did you have to hack it to hardwire buttons into it, or does it provide contacts for such options?

Would such a relay: https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1448130400&sr=8-3&keywords=zwave+relay
have worked in your switch setup?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00913ATFI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1O77D5UJY7IVU

Or

https://www.amazon.com/Qubino-Z-Wave-Contact-Module-ZMNHND3/dp/B01MSEG2J1/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_107_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8Z9W3F3E3AH328B9PHGG

For zwave.

I’ve used both. Can set parameters for auto shutoff for time and choose to power off switch with loss and return of power. Pricy but work well

I’ve been looking into the same thing. There is one Z-Wave Dry Switch I’ve seen, and you’ll likely need a millivolt fireplace pilot system to do the actual ignition/deignition. Then you replace the manual switch on the pilot with the Z-Wave one.

I haven’t tried this myself yet, but I believe those are the pieces needed.

Depending on how your fireplace is ignited (i.e.-manually with a valve, match/lighter, etc) you might get away with one of these. When we had our house rewired (full gut job) I had them wire both fireplaces so that I could simply flip a switch: insta-flame. This would replace the switch but also add zwave compatibility so that anytime your fireplace is turned on, you could also set a scene to turn on the blower.

I've also seen zwave relays which you can modulate between momentary and latching so ostensibly you could control both the fireplace and blower motor with one relay. You would simply need a separate 110/220 relay to operate the blower but that would simply be an on/off situation i.e.- when the fireplace is on, the blower is on. If you went with a switch with whatever automation standard you could include a temperature gauge of some sort to turn on the blower when the room reaches a certain temperature.

This is what I used for the same situation... it works great. I use it via Z-Wave with SmartThings.

https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI

assuming it's a desktop, you can wire a normally open, SPST DC relay to the pc's power switch terminals. power the relay by a wall wart connected to a zwave module. from the vera issue a command to turn on the zwave module and then back off after a second or 2. the relay will close during that time, shorting the terminals of the power button together simulating a button press. or you can just buy one of these modules and wire its outputs across the power switch terminals and issue the same on/off commands mentioned from the vera. you could also use this method to turn off your pc too, depending on what you have your power button mapped to in windows (sleep, shutdown, hibernate, etc)

On the high side of your $, but dry contact:

Remotec Zwave Dry Contact Fixture Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00913ATFI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Z0j6Ab8189S79

I think that might be the same dry switch, but I used this one here. Pretty easy to setup and has been working for a couple of years now

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00913ATFI/ref=oh_aui_i_sh_in_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have it integrated with smartthings and Google home.

My gas fireplace had a switch on the wall, so I thought a smart switch would accomplish my goal to add the ability to use Siri to control the fireplace. Realized the switch was a low powered one, not a normal light switch.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00913ATFI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This wired between the switch allowed me to connect to the aeotec z wave hub and works great.

Here is the amazon link from the other comment https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00913ATFI/. Note though that it doesn't fit most standard decora panels so you would probably have to trim it.

I did this with z-wave using this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00913ATFI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It does require power, but I had access to 120V under the fireplace.

You can get ROLLS of remote controllable LED lights online. My husband and I use them for lighting our computer cases for instance. Just do a little research in the reviews to make sure people have a good experience with their safety and longevity for the price. https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Changing-Flexible-Controller-44-button/dp/B0040FJ27S

If you are looking for an easy solution around 100 to 200 give philips HUE a try? You can control with your phone and they have a couple of products that provide ambient lighting. https://www.amazon.com/Philips-259945-Bloom-Frustration-Free/dp/B00I12YFP0/ref=pd_sim_60_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=41j4KdlKf9L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=YGM42E2837A7BAV7AW3M and this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0W3CI0/ref=s9_dcacsd_bhz_bw_c_x_6 and they have lots of other hue products too.

You could build up a crown moulding with a small shelf before the ceiling then line it with rope lighting to create a lit ceiling. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YaSHR6mfbRE

You could buy a couple of lamps from ikea, craigslist, marshalls, tj max, home goods, then put lower wattage lights (40w or 25w) in them on the 2700 (warmer) side of the spectrum. Dimmable lamps would be a plus just make sure the bulbs are dimmable too. They could be standard lamps, wall mounted plug in lamps, pendants you plug in then hang from the ceiling or even something more zen like a salt lamp: https://www.amazon.com/YYout-Himalayan-Crystal-Dimmable-Electric/dp/B01DP47SDY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1469690772&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=dimmable+salt+lamp&psc=1


You can put any pluggable light on a remote with a light switch remote. They can be pretty handy... Or the clapper lol. https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1469690399&sr=1-7&keywords=plug+remote

Yeah, I've personally never counted on the auto-standby stuff working as people were always complaining on /r/vive so I unplug the lighthouses and headset power.

I did get this https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1468439174&sr=8-6&keywords=wireless+outlet+switch

But one of the receivers died in a week so returned it and never bought more.

I may give it another shot as either last week's or the week before's SteamVR beta seemed to fix the standby stuff for some. Who knows it may work right for you now that you've ditched the HTC software.

Wireless Christmas tree controls

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1

I bought these wireless, remote controlled switches so I can switch the base stations off and on with the remote (and because the buttons are re-assignable I only need a single on-off-pair). Works perfectly fine for me and a lot faster and reliable than the bluetooth standby mode.

Wireless outlet switch remote.

they're still kind of noisy on standby anyway, so I've gone for an external solution instead. These remote controlled outlets are a god send.

Yeah.. I figured out it doesn't seem to exist.. I'm surprised because there are MANY "dumb" plugs with a remote controller (see : https://www.amazon.ca/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Control-3Rx-1Tx/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467918751&sr=8-1&keywords=wireless+electrical+outlet ). But those don't have WIFI or android app support..

Too bad.. I wanted to have the comfort of clicking on and off easily from the remote without the hassle of going in my phone BUT still have the option to trigger on something while away from home.

Get a outlet remote to make things easy. I have my lighthouses and headset hooked to these.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQ2KGNK?th=1

I realized mine was staying warm when I first got it, also the bluetooth didn't turn off my lighthouses sometimes in one of the early software versions. So I got a remote hooked to all three and can turn them off and on super easy now.

Use remote power switch to turn on / off headset and base stations. Been using the same base station since OG Vive. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Control-Wireless-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=pd_ybh_a_7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=1VJ1VE39CSYMF6AVGFQF

You won't have bluetooth issues. You can also power off headset for a break to cut down the idle temps.

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494034604&sr=8-1&keywords=wireless+power+plug

This doesn't connect to your network at all, it just uses a traditional RF remote to control the wall dongle. It's theoretically 'hackable' by someone within range, but what's the worst they're going to do, turn your light on and off until you unplug it?

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/

I use these.

One for each base station and one for the link/headset.

https://smile.amazon.com/Etekcity-Control-Wireless-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/

Remote controlled power socket

http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity%C2%AE-Wireless-Control-Battery-included/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1414525917&sr=8-4&keywords=3+outlet+remote

Sure. Just plug some floor lamps into remote control outlets. You can sticky the remotes by the door. Not the most elegant solution in the world but they work fine. Pretty cheap on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_.Lj3DbR46CBYM

I would just get something like this.

Or a new router.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1512064862&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=remote+control+outlet&psc=1

We have these sick remote control outlet adapters for each plugin lamp in our home. Just keep the remote in a central place and you’re golden!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=sspa_mw_detail_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExVjFRS1RJSUs4S0tXJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjUwMzI2UkhaQ0tCRkZSNFg2JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAxNzUwOTYzQkIwMldBVVhDOUtUJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfZGV0YWlsJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0

I always keep mine powered off when not using them. I bought and use this per a recommended accessory thread for the Vive:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_21?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A99MZGWBBIGK9

Some have noted that these (https://amzn.com/B00DQ2KGNK) have worked like a champ for situations like yours.

From what I've seen, there isn't a hubless option for a 3-way dimmer yet.

Past posts have suggested this option for a 3-way switch:
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-600-watt-150-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G

Note: It's not a true wired 3-way switch. You are covering one of the switches with a remote that looks identical to the wired wall switch.

OK so question. What if I were to replace the toggle switch with this smart switch - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJY0S4G/ref=psdc_507840_t2_B014STZASK

If I were to switch the lights off at this switch - could I still flip them on from my phone app?

For dimming lights, I've got a couple Lutron Caseta dimmers paired with a Wink hub and love them, though they are a bit pricey. No neutral wire required in the switch box.

There's also a couple Caseta on/off switches, but Wink support for them is currently broken.

I prefer putting control at the light switch as opposed to smart bulbs, unless you're looking specifically for color mixing.

Lutron Caséta is supported by Wink. I'm sure there are "gotchas" but Wink compatibility is advertised. I've got one dimmer and one shade that work fine but I only use the Lutron app and HomeKit with the Lutron Caséta Pro hub.

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-P-PKG1W-WH-Wireless-600-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

If you don't need the pedestals for the pico remotes, I think you're better off buying these 2 bundles separate.

Bundle

Extra Switch & Pico

I have this *exact* same problem – they flash on, then off, then back on. From that point forward, they operate just fine without any flickering.

​

I have am using Lutron Caseta Wireless Smart Lighting Dimmer Switches and dimmable LEDs.

​

Is this the LUT-MLC that you’re referring to? Can someone explain to me exactly how it works in conjunction with the above Smart Lighting Dimmer Switch?

http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-P-PKG1W-WH-Wireless-600-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_0_0 Same line of thinking but I think Lutron's is better.

What you could do for the three way dimming switch is put in this Lutron Caseta switch on one wall setup just as a regular two way switch, then the Pico remote that comes with the switch can be mounted in a wall switch plate on the other side of the room where the other three way switch is. The Pico remote is wireless and runs on a battery. You would just cap off the wires where the Pico switch is. If you look at that Amazon link there is a wall bracket where you can just mount the Pico switch in a direct replacement for the light switch. Then just pick whatever size/arrangement decora wall plates you need. That would give you a light switch on each side of the room with the same control you have now with the two three way switches.

You will need a Wink hub to control the Lutron lighting with your Echo.

Why not go to Lutron Caseta switches since they don't require a neutral?

this or this should work yea?

Sorry what i mean is does this one work with hue with your method:

https://www.amazon.com/P-PKG1W-WH-Wireless-600-watt-150-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G

Lutron Caseta. They even have a mount bracket where you don't have to cut the wall to add the second switch.

You would need a switch kit and a mounting bracket.

https://www.amazon.com/P-PKG1W-WH-Wireless-600-watt-150-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-PICO-WBX-ADAPT-Pico-Wallplate-Bracket/dp/B00JZRAFEA

I have a couple Lutron Caseta wireless switches. They have a switch you hardwire in place of the existing one, and then you have the option to use a wireless remote. You can mount it on the wall like a normal switch, or it has a pedestal if you want to leave it on a table. If you invest in the Lutron "smart bridge" you can control them with a phone app as well.

edit:
Here's what I have. I like them:

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-600-watt-150-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G

I assume that it is, but I can't confirm it. Are you in the US? If so, you'd be better buying either of these, which I can confirm are two wire:

Dimmer and Remote

Dimmer

Both are less expensive than the item on eBay, and the first one comes with a Pico remote. I've bought several of each of Amazon. (Lowes and maybe Home Depot also stock these).

Don't mean to hijack but I see this as relevant, if I purchased this kit which states it's homekit enabled (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XPW6824/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)

and this switch which has no mention of homekit (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJY0S4G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3TX4YUK2VIRSQ)

Will the seperate switch work with the hub and all switches would then be homekit compatible? Thanks heaps if you are able to confirm this

This should work for you. I've been meaning to try it since I don't have neutral wires too. The installation guide doesn't seem to mention neutral wires.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJY0S4G/ref=s9_simh_gw_g60_i4_r?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-2&pf_rd_r=0RV352DQJFT97AMFSSQC&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=2091268722&pf_rd_i=desktop

No, check this out. Works without ground. I just installed one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JJY0S4G/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502846705&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=lutron+caseta&dpPl=1&dpID=41s8w2udgiL&ref=plSrch

Just to double check would these 2 be all I need?

B00JJY0S4G
B00PYMGVVQ

I'm using ones purchased from Amazon (http://amzn.com/B00JJY0S4G) or Home Depot (http://goo.gl/eZKEkK). You can control the dimmer from the remote and from the (Wink) hub. Neat setup. Looks like you can get the dimmer module without the remote from Amazon (http://amzn.com/B00KLAXFQA).

You can use the Lutron Caseta for 3 way switches or more. Install the full Lutron Caseta switch in one box, and use remotes for the other boxes. You can put another switch anywhere, even if there isn't wiring there.

Lutron Caseta Wireless In-Wall Dimmer, 600/150-Watt, Single Pole, Works with Amazon Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_BazDyb4YRKZ8B

Remote with wall bracket
Lutron PJ2-WALL-WH-L01 Pico Remote Control with Wall Mounting Kit, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JR202JQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ObzDybQ8C594T

You need the hub as well

Hub, 1 switch, and 1 remote
Lutron P-BDG-PKG1W Caseta Wireless Dimmer Kit with Smart Bridge for Amazon Alexa and Selected Models, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MXCRAX8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kdzDybXVZ4ZGM

They sell the wall brackets seperate as well
Lutron PICO-WBX-ADAPT Pico Wallplate Bracket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JZRAFEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nfzDybQX74B01

Basically you can get a 2way solution for $100, and add a 3rd switch for $20

The Lutron Connected Bulb remote can control bulbs directly and has a wall plate bracket. It doesn't wire in unfortunately.

You'll want to get the Connected Bulb Remote to run the setup I described. I don't think the other models work the same. If mounting in a wall plate, you'll also need the bracket.

This will work fitted into this

And works with standalone zigbee bulbs, a hue hub, or smartthings.

In my setup (Inspire LED) I use to pull power from a standard outlet (behind Fridge or microwave). This was run to an RF Receiver that let me control the lights via wireless RF Controls, like this one. This setup worked.. okay.. the receiver and transmitter I used weren't the best.


I have since re-configured to use a Smart Outlet, connected to my Wink and controlled with Alexa. I have also setup a Lutron Bulb Remote that has shortcuts that allow me to operate the lights. This is mounted, next to a single gang box, and covered with a double gang plate, you cannot tell the difference.. no drywall is cut or removed. Lutron makes a wall-mount kit for their remotes.


Not a single wire is run in these setups. You can mount the remote anywhere you please. You could even add a simple in-line toggle switch to turn them on / off... and mount under the cabinets.. no dimming tho.. endless options.

Is there a reason why you're going the bulb route instead of the smart switches? Depending on how many bulbs you get, the cost can get up there pretty quickly. I use Lutron Caseta switches and they integrate well to smartthings and then into google home. I also have 4 downlights with hue bulbs in them for one room. What I did was just wired the power wires behind the switch to always have power to the fixture. At the time, Lutron sold a remote that looked the the other smart switches I installed that could control hue light bulbs. I just put it over the wires with a bracket that Lutron made as well.

I use this one for two of the lights in my house:

Lutron LZL-4B-WH-L01 Connected Bulb Remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014STZASK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Fepyzb0C7TV95

Get this accessory and it fits in your standard light switch.

Lutron PICO-WBX-ADAPT Pico Wallplate Bracket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JZRAFEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CfpyzbTEYY4F5

Yup. Otherwise just abandon the mechanical switch and drop a Caseta remote in. Nice thing about the remote is auto 50% (if you want it) and you can program it to turn on extra accessories (hall light or...?) as well.

They look just like switches - you just need one of these Lutron PICO-WBX-ADAPT Pico Wallplate Bracket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JZRAFEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FXL6ybQQGHE8S.

Almost! The lutron stuff is a bit confusing. They have their pico/caseta line (which you don't want), and their connected bulb line.

You want this, this, and this. Of course, you'll also need Zigbee bulbs (Osram Lightify, GE Link, etc) and a compatible hub, such as Wink. If you'd like, you can get a second remote and keep it beside your bed.


Hope this helps!

My recommendation would be to have a normal switch in A and disconnect all the other switches and wires(you can probably just leave them cold in the wall) and then use pico remotes in the other two locations. They're great because they can screw in right into a standard cover plate. And be placed anywhere since they're battery operated. Sadly they only work with other lutron switches even through a third party hub like a wink hub so you'd have to replace your leviton switch with a lutron one.
Also the dimmable Lutrons don't require a neutral as they basically keep the circuit open just a tiny bit so the can stay powered(think powerdraw of like miliamps) but not enough for the bulbs to turn on.


Switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLAXFQA/

Pico + bracket x 2:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLAXFQ0/

https://www.amazon.com/Caseta-Wireless-Wallplate-Bracket-PICO-WBX-ADAPT/dp/B00JZRAFEA/


You can buy them separately if you already have existing ecosystem or you can get this kit:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M3XJUAD

I was wondering if someone was going to mention this. The connected bulb remotes pair directly with the hue bulbs via the Zigbee Lightlink protocol (pairing info here) and have instantaneous response to both dim and switch the lights. They can be paired with one or many bulbs. When matched with the pico bracket, they can be installed in the place of the regular switch, just remove the old switch and wirenut the hot to the switch leg so that way the bulb sockets are always "on". They are the exact size of a decora switch and therefore cheap switch covers can be used with them. I have them all over my house.

these are used for junction box and flat surface install. Pretty simple. I even have one on my headboard ;)

I'm not sure if this is what you're looking for, but the other day I asked a similar question.

I wanted my Hues to be powered all the time so I could always use the Hue app alone to turn them on, or have them return to the previous scene, or all the other benefits that come with leaving the Hues powered.

However, I wanted to replace the Decora switches/dimmers with something that could be used to control the Hues but without cutting power. So my solution is what /u/rittyroo suggested, I purchased a Lutron Connected Bulb Remote with the wallplate bracket and hooked it up to the Hues. It's not designed for them, but there is a Youtube video showing how to set it up and it worked for me no problem.

I still have to actually hardwire the lights to always-on, though I haven't yet because they're three-way switches which are outside of my expertise - I'll be getting an electrician or someone smarter than me to do it. But the system works exactly like I had hoped.

I know this isn't exactly the response you were looking for but there are decora style hue switches. Technically they are remotes but you can hardwire your lights to always be on and install the remotes as decora switches. My current system consists of 27 hue bulbs controlled by 12 of these remotes/switches and it works great. Links and documentation below.

Remotes

Wallplate Brackets



Documentation:

1. Unpackaged the Lutron remote
   
   
2. Put the remote within 4 inches of your Hue Hub
   
   
3. Open the Hue app and go to Settings -> Accessory Setup -> Click the + Button in the bottom right corner -> Hue dimmer Switch -> Option 1 -> LED blinking
   
   
4. Next, while the app shows as searching, press and hold the top "On" button on the Lutron remote
   
   
5. After about 10 seconds or so, you'll see the green LED on the remote start flashing rapidly. Keep holding until the light turns off
   
   
6. The remote is now paired with the bridge and you can exit out of the Hue app (It'll still be saying searching…)
   
   
7. Now you can proceed with pairing the remote as the instructions say
   
   
8. Simply go next to the Hue bulb that you want to control with the remote and hold down that top "On" button on the remote
   
   
9. The Hue bulb will flash three times and then grow dim or turn off
   
   
10. You should now be able to control the bulb with both the remote and the Hue app!
    
    
11. If you want to pair any other bulbs, perform the same steps with the next bulb

So I wanted to report back for people who come across this thread. Based on Manbient's recommendation, I am using Lutron Connected Remotes in conjunction with the Phillips Hue Bulbs and it works great. "Pairing" the Remote to the Hue hub first and then to each bulb you want it to control worked flawlessly. I tested a network outtage and the lutron remote still controls the lights just fine. The Hue remote DOES NOT, as it reports back to the hub to control the lights. While the hue remote has more options for colors, etc, the Lutron remotes seem to be a little more failproof, and can be mounted on the wall in standard faceplates. In fact, I think you can use the Pico wallplate bracket to give it the built-in look. Here is a link to that product: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JZRAFEA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This seems like the best solution for now, and it is still completely customizeable/reworkable, unlike wired switches or other combos.

The only thing that I don't like about the Lutron Connected remotes is that a single tap of the "on" button doesn't bring them back to their previously dimmed level, it turns them on full blast. Of course, you can just use the dim up and down buttons, but I got used to Lutron's Maestro switches where a single tap would bring the lights up to the previous level and a double tap would bring them on full. I did a little searching and couldn't find whether this was possible with the connected remote.
Anyone have a solution or workaround for that?
Thanks again everyone!

Edit: grammar

>You need to find a smart switch that does NOT require a neutral wire. I don't know exactly which ones don't, but I know they're out there.

This one will work.

Unless I'm misunderstanding, they don't have a wireless dimmer option. I'll need one of these physically wired to the light, which unfortunately isn't possible.

Is there additional functionality I'm not aware of?

There are quite a few to choose from. Below are two I use, but you find a lot more on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/iDevices-Wall-Switch-Required-Single/dp/B06Y5G7XPJ/ref=sr_1_5?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1511056280&sr=1-5&keywords=idevices&dpID=41mQiJ8aAOL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

https://www.amazon.com/LUTRON-PD-6WCL-WH-Caseta-Wireless-Dimmer/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1511056299&sr=8-1-spons&ppw=fresh&keywords=lutron%2Bcaseta%2Bdimmer&th=1

Haha, thanks! I like to know what's what, but it looks like since they didn't move the switch box, they didn't have to update it to the latest code when they renovated. I might have to look into a leak-to-ground switch if I can find one. I might be out of luck without using a Lutron Caseta Wireless.

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-PD-6WCL-WH-Caseta-Wireless-150-Watt/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1467145260&sr=8-3&keywords=lutron+caseta+wireless

Looking at that, I might actually do that, Lutron has better quality products anyway and the price has come down on them too!

I guarantee you your house DOES have neutral wires, because AC power won't work without neutral wires. There may not be neutral wires in the light switch boxes though. Often what was done in years past was run a power line (hot/neutral/ground or hot/neutral in a grounded metal cladding) straight to the fixture, then run a two-conductor cable (hot/load) from the fixture to the switch. Thus there's neutral in the fixture, but not in the switch box. That's probably what happened here.

As for the Caseta- almost all smart switches require neutral into the switch itself. That's because while the dumb switch just interrupts power flow, the smart switch consumes power itself and thus the neutral is needed because the switch itself is a tiny 'load'. SOME Caseta switches don't require neutral, but they DO require having enough wattage load because the power that the switch runs on has to travel through the lights. If you have smaller LED lights, that often won't work right.

If you want to test this all- disconnect the red or orange from the switch one at a time. If this theory is correct, disconnecting one will make the fan not work (but light will still work), and disconnecting the other will make nothing at all work. Remember, turn off the circuit breaker before opening the outlet box, and cap the spare wire with a wire nut.

If that all is correct- you need either the Caseta dimmer that doesn't need a neutral, like this one...

Lutron makes great smart switches. As others mentioned occupancy sensors are better than smart switches for high traffic areas like kitchens, bathrooms, hallways and smart switches are better in bedrooms, living rooms, etc.

There really isn't much in the form of smart switches for fans.

There is something from Lutron like this https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-PD-6WCL-WH-Assistant/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1543194776&sr=8-20&keywords=ceiling+fan+smart+switch

I don't know anything about lutron or what infrastructure it requires. It does say it's compatible with Alexa.

if you have a remote for the fan you might look at bond https://www.amazon.com/BOND-Automation-Ceiling-Fireplace-Compatible/dp/B071GVGVVH/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1543194776&sr=8-14&keywords=ceiling+fan+smart+switch

which mimics your remote control, but has the disadvantage of being uni directional, or stateless.

There is also an Insteon solution, but you would need at least a hub for that and be decently handy with electrical (as you would with the Lutron to be fair).

If you want smart lights and need a physical switch to use I would suggest two options.

The first option is to upgrade your wall switches. I have used these before and have had no issues Lutron Caseta Wireless Smart Lighting Dimmer Switch for Wall & Ceiling Lights, PD-6WCL-WH, White, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, and the Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_x-WWBbPYJ4QP5

If you want to go the Hue light route you can buy wireless switches and use the included 3m mounting to hang it on your wall Philips Hue Smart Dimmer Switch with Remote (Installation-Free, Smart Home, Exclusively for Philips Hue Smart Bulbs), 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076MGKTGS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IeXWBb02JK78V

>the smart switch is a cheaper option

You don't seem to be getting the fact that you are comparing apples to oranges. Further, smart switches are not necessarily cheaper than Hue color bulbs. The Lutron is a popular smart switch that is more expensive. Also, your statement that smart switches never need to be replaced is wrong. Smart switches have sensitive electronics that can and do fail.

I am not an electrician but just went through the same challenge and found a solution. I have been swapping out the dimmer switches in my house (built in 1959) for new smart switches. I realized that there are some switches that do not require a neutral wire.

Lutron Caseta Smart Home Dimmer Switch, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, and the Google Assistant | for LED Light Bulbs, Incandescent Bulbs and Halogen Bulbs | PD-6WCL-WH | White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kBT2DbJ69HVY7

Maybe an electrician on here can explain this better, but these switches basically leave a trickle of power when turned off to keep the switch working.

Something like this?
Lutron Caseta Wireless In-Wall Dimmer, 600/150-Watt, Single Pole, Works with Amazon Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lQcAybR2S3GG7

Lutron Caseta PD-6WCL-WH Smart Lighting Dimmer Switch or PD-6ANS-WH Smart Lighting Switch are "single-pole" switches, but they will require L-BDG-WH Caseta Wireless Smart Bridge to function properly.

I believe my wiring is the same. I'm on a Wink hub, and these are what I use:

The dimmer is great because it fits in the wall, but you can't run low-voltage LED lights on it because they use so little electricity that the light will always be faintly on. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KLAXFQA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also have an over the top switch. It doesn't look as good, but it works. Also, it makes an electric motor noise as it switches. I personally like the noise because as I tell Alexa "goodbye" I can hear the switch to know for sure that my lights are off as I leave my condo. It does work with the switch and a rocker.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079M178GW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks. I found this one but it appears you still need a hub of some sort...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KLAXFQA/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

Here you go.

BRS dosers on timed outlets.

Doser
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-2-part-doser-1-1-ml-per-minute.html

Century 7 Day Heavy Duty Digital Programmable Timer - Dual Outlet (Single Control) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVF16JG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KI8HAbJJ3BRYG

Finally getting around to installing a CO2 system in my established, planted 45g community tank. The tank is mainly comprised of mosses, dwarf hair grass, tall hair grass, crypts, and a few java plants. I've had problems with black beard algae so I adjusted my light regimen and treated it with H2O2 until it was gone. Now I'm getting growths of green algae, so at this point I'm ready to install a DIY paintball CO2 system to combat the algae, so I can use my lights to their full potential, and to increase plant growth. The parts listed below are my starting point, let me know your thoughts...

Milwaukee MA957 Regulator

Adapter

CO2 Hose--Couldn't find a clear one in 3/16ID

Diffuser

Drop Checker

Check Valve

Timer

For a total of $141 before tax

What is your opinion on this setup?


Additionally I think my Aquaclear 110 is on its last leg so and I'm looking to convert to a canister filter (one that won't break the bank). Should I go with the SunSun HW304B or the SunSun HW704B

You really want to dose ca and alk. Watch the BRS videos.

digital timers on amazon for about we$. Make sure you can program in 1 minute intervals. Before getting my controller I used them for a few years.

https://www.amazon.com/Century-Heavy-Digital-Programmable-Timer/dp/B00MVF16JG/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1523127197&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=Digital+timer&psc=1

No problem! I used this LED strip since it’s lightweight and doesn’t get very hot. It has screws so I attached it to the lid that way and drilled tiny holes for zip ties so the cables aren’t hanging down. I have it on a timer like this.

I got you. I would skip over the Nicrew all together and just opt for something more expensive that will get the job done but is still in your price range. I have had the Nicrew, lights in between the Nicrew and what I am about to recommend, and then the lights I am recommending are now on all my tanks. There is SIGNIFICANT difference in plant growth even in my suuuuper low-tech tanks.

• Light: Finnex Fugeray Planted+
  
  The main reason I suggest these lights is they contain true 660nm Red LED lights which are crucial to plant photosynthesis. Without this specific red spectrum most plants have significant difficulty utilizing the light, no matter how strong it is. Here is a picture of one of my tanks running this light: https://i.imgur.com/hYhcp9Z.jpg
  
  
• Wall timer: Best ones hands down in my humble opinion: Century 7 Day Programmable Wall Timer
  
  These are freaking awesome. Extremely easy to use, High level of customization, and 2 outlets on each timer. I can't recommend them enough.

This one!

https://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-Inverter-Converter-Charger-Listed/dp/B07JJSW48V


https://www.amazon.com/Century-Digital-Programmable-Packaging-Security/dp/B00MVF16JG

They are called digital outlet timers. If you want to go crazy you can go all /r/homeautomation and get a home assistant hub and some z wave switches going to have your lights turn on and off as you please

1. I'm proud of myself this month. I've been paying attention in my classes, I'm working harder, and I'm taking care of myself. The work has paid off because I got offered 2 interviews so far, a day after the career fair! I've been looking at these two items for months now (just recently added these to my wish list): item and item
   
2. Tell me why she left me I'll tell you why I cried. Tell you why I stayed around tell me why she lied. -Johnny Cash
   
3. Omg I was JUST about to tag you and post this /u/puppies_and_unicorns because I didn't realize you made this. I'll keep it though because you need to treat yaself!

Technically, any plant will be fine any high light, but it's always a good idea to try to pair the plants with the light that you have, or vice versa. With even just a Stingray, you'll probably be hitting 45-50 PAR on a 20 long, since the distance from the light to the substrate will be absurdly short. The best way to alleviate this is to raise the light somehow, either with some sort of pipe contraption like I built, or mounting it to the ceiling or wall.

For that high of light, I would definitely recommend a timer that allows multiple on-off periods and have the light on for 3-4 hours, then have a 3-4 hour siesta, then on for another 3-4 hours. This way, the plants have time to use up all of that high light they've gotten from the first burst and they'll be ready for the next. It won't overwhelm them and it should keep algae in check to a degree. If this is a new tank, prepare for diatoms... delicious, disgusting, aggravating diatoms.

Edit: Here is a great article about lighting and PAR

I don't like the analog timers because they make clicky noises. I've also been through A LOT of various timers on Amazon because I own 2 auto cat feeders along with my multitude of reptile lights. I will break down my experience for you:

Enover TS18 Digital Timer -- I needed this for my triple-prong power strip and it worked for a couple months but then started turning the "random" feature on by itself and wouldn't turn off in the evening. Junked.

Westek TE08WHB Timer Strip -- I really like this one and I still use it for a couple of my cages. I like that 4 are timed and 4 are always on. NOTE though that when the power goes out this does NOT keep the time and will reset, which is very annoying.

WenTop Digital Timer -- I used this one for my single cat feeder for awhile, but it eventually stopped working for some reason. I never figured out why but it stopped turning anything on. Junked.

Century Digital Timer -- I bought a second feeder and needed a timer that had 2 outlets. This one has worked well so far, but you may just need a single outlet.

Woods 50006WD Analog Timer -- I still use these when my digital timers break lol. Honestly, they're really reliable, they just make that clicky sound that drives me nuts. But it's a great deal if you're just looking for something that works with no frills.

Nearpow Digital Timer -- My most recent purchase. I've only been using it for a few weeks but has been working fine. It has a bunch of settings, I have no idea what all of them do, I just need it to turn the lights off and on lol.

https://www.amazon.com/Plantation-Products-KLIGHT-Seedling-Cuttings/dp/B075J55295

https://www.amazon.com/Century-Heavy-Digital-Programmable-Timer/dp/B00MVF16JG/ref=sr_1_4?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1542667298&sr=1-4&keywords=outlet+timer

I am a heavy sleeper. I have a programable timer running a spot light directed at my face. I have alarms on my phones, but none of the nice pleasing melodies I got the most annoying alarms I could cut out of youtube videos. I also have a radio clock set almost to NPR, almost, you can hear it, it's off a little so annoying random signal noise cuts in too. Also another clock radio, but just set to buzz in a different location.

You could just plug it into a simple timed outlet:

Century 7 Day Heavy Duty Digital Programmable Timer - Dual Outlet (Both Control) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVF16JG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_g-xCzbJF8FB3E

You can look into a smart switch or even a simple one like this https://www.amazon.com/Century-Heavy-Digital-Programmable-Timer/dp/B00MVF16JG

I came to say the exact same thing. I'll add a few things:

• Plan according to every task taking the longest it's ever taken, and then if you can afford the risk of being late, you can reduce your worst case estimate by 10-15 minutes.
  
• Make sure you're awake on time. If waking up is hard, get a programmable outlet and turn on a light for slightly before your alarm goes off
  
• If you wake up and look at your phone, add that time to your estimate
  
• Set a second alarm for when you need to get out of bed.
  

Hopefully it works, but if you have this https://www.amazon.com/Century-Heavy-Digital-Programmable-Timer/dp/B00MVF16JG/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1482302888&sr=8-6&keywords=digital+timer hack it and get a cheap-o timer locally for your lights. Good luck, homie!

Using this 100% timer Pure Resveratrol - 1000mg... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVF16JG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

And this light
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075JFPLY1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Its not fancy and probably not great for NVR's, but I've used cheap power point timers (both analog and digital models) for automatic reboots of AP's at a previous workplace. They arent "smart" but might be ok.




The digital models let you set a day of the week and time to shut the power off then turn it back on ~1 minute later like this one (example only, I havent used this particular model) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVF16JG

A smart plug with a schedule would work. I just bought this setup and it came with it's own solenoid (which you will also need). I then bought this timer to shut it off on the schedule I set it too.

I use something like this. I'll be honest and mention that almost every mechanical one I buy I can hear it ticking (turning). Any bedroom or living room I'll use the digital timers, although in my garage for lights Ill use an analog one because the ticking/turning noise isn't loud enough to be an issue.

LIST POST:

 |/u/Dent7777|Shady Angel Investor|Total|Strictly Necessary Costs
:--|:--|:--|:--|:--
 |318.366|212.244|530.61|385.44
 |Item|Price|Link|
possible to replace or modify|32G Wheeled Trash Can|20|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071CZ4BWD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
fabric bags also work|Air-Pruning Pot|13.98|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BFISHS2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |Mylar Blankets|6.69|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GLCYR5S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|Velcro tape|16.49|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007OXK330/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |Plant Ties|7.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071CZ4BWD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |Happy Frog Soil|11.95|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01508YKY8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |FoxFarm Trio|33.95|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D93NIFY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |Fem Blue Dream Seed|23.68|https://www.seedsupreme.com/blue-dream-feminized-seeds-20604.html|
 |2 Free Fem Seeds|0| | 
 |pH control & testing kit|18.5|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BNKWZY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
not strictly necessary (NSN)|Submersible pump|7.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EWENKXO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|2Liter bladder|12.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B075RWCXWZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|Clear Tubing|7.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W6W10TK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|tubing switch|7.95|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L45TLPK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|Funnel|10.96|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OKXZL8O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |Humidity & Temp Sensor|12.82|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013BKDO8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|Rechargeable AAs|13.8|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JHKSN76/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |Inline Fan|17.95|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CQBFOTS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |Carbon filter|33.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CJ5D4AG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |Ducting hose|10.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B076S6KHB4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |ArcMyn Vent|14.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0793HH4GD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |Axial Fan|11.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009OWRMZ6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|Fan Speed controller|17.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B6VV6GL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |HGL 100w|149|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C59J8L2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|Smart Power Strip|32.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C1ZSCYV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
may keep for lights, might get rid of it.|Light Timer|12.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVF16JG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|

Here's the amazon timer:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVF16JG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just cycle small periods of time like 30 minutes. I use every time slot possible and just let it cycle throughout the day.

Started seeds in early november. Put in the system around november 8th. the last pics in that album were around nov 16th, so about a weeks worth of growth. i pulled out the lettuce tub today to clean it up and i'm gonan replace it with a DWC bucket for some cherry tomatoes. here's pics of the peppers in their current state http://imgur.com/a/NY6xR . insanely bushy and got a few peppers and a TON of blooms that are quite healthy.

the lettuces were a mix of Perpetual spinach (A type of chard, it did insanely well), some oak leaf, some butter crunch, and some romaine. The lettuces did pretty well, but I think I was overcrowding the tub. Also, most of those lettuces really didn't do too great with the "cut and come again" type harvest, but the P. spinach did GREAT. You could slice off the outer edge leaves at the base, and the next day it'd be back to growing new ones at a crazy pace. I think next time, I'm just gonna do a tub full of it cause it was not only delicious eats but grew very very well. Lettuce is just so damn cheap at the store that it was not very practical to grow in the tubs, which is why I'm pulling it out to start some cherry tomatoes. With as good as the peppers are doing, I imagine a cherry tomato plant in a DWC bucket will thrive quite well.

Here's everything else I'm using
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LS07T5E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JPEVMC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVF16JG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IB2TL08/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CKCQJKQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The nute levels were around 1000-1400 (Meter seems to fluctuate). I have hard water with a base PPM of about 160. The nutes I added had calcium/mag added, so I was a little worried about possibly too much calcium since my water definitely has plenty, but nope, no issues. Big healthy green leaves and fast growth. No root rot as well. Only issue so far is aphids. Lots of the little fuckers. Going to my local hydro store here today to try and figure out a solution

I just set up a really basic watering system so that they got watered while on vacation, using:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B013JPIJG4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0018WVNXC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 (I should have gotten larger, but this works)

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVF16JG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I timed how long it took for the pump to go thru a 5 gallon bucket (my normal amount to water) 3 times, and set the timer to go off for a little longer than it took on average, on the day I wanted them to get watered.

I'm now using it to water since I'm in flower and it's easier to just let it water them while in darkness, since I'm only awake for a little time they are getting light.

For anyone wondering about the CO2 Setup, here is a quick writeup that includes all of the Amazon links and prices:

I am using a TV stand for my aquarium that looks like this and the entire CO2 setup fits in one of the smaller cubby holes. I am using a 24OZ Empire paintball tank that has this adapter hooked up to this regulator.




Those three items will makeup the majority of the cost of pressurized CO2. The other things I bought were a drop checker, a CO2 diffuser and CO2 airline tubing.

Finally, I bought an outlet timer since the regulator I previously mentioned has a solenoid valve.


The core components are the tank, adapter, regulator, tubing, and diffuser. The total of those came to $130. Adding on the dropchecker and timer brings the total to $160. Filling up the paintball tank at my local sporting good store cost 5$, but that should last this tank anywhere from 3-6 months.


You may be able to assemble the entire setup for cheaper if you can find a cheap paintball tank and a smaller diffuser, or already have some of the items needed.

Actually, you can edit comments and posts, but not post links and titles.

If you are on reddit desktop, edit your comment with your link, select your link, press crtl x to cut, highlight the rest of your comment text, and then press CTRL K. Then ctrl v to paste your link.


That will allow you to embed the link into text like this.

On desktop I recommend using old.reddit.com with a Google extension called reddit enhancement suite. Better browsing experience imo.

On mobile, I recommend using the app relay for reddit.

The best I've come up with for this scenario is to either:

• Like /u/Alwayssunnyinarizona mentioned, expand the gang box so you can add both a Z-Wave dimmer & a Z-Wave fan controller (like the GE 12730) side by side. Since you already have the separate fan and light wiring, this isn't too bad. You would need a drywall saw to expand the hole (or a small saw), [optional] tin snips to cut the old box out, a new 3-gang box and wallplate, and patience.
  
  
• If you have the spare cash, Insteon makes the Fanlinc, which you can hide in the canopy. You could then add an Insteon KeypadLinc. Of course, the gadgets themselves are expensive, and you'd need to add an Insteon modem to your HA setup if you don't already have one. That said, it's as elegant as you'll get without modifying that box.
  
  
• Finally, you could hide a micro dimmer and fan controller in the canopy and use an in-wall scene controller to make your HA hub command them. Not as elegant and more points of failure, but it'll get the job done.

GE 12730. Replaces the switch on the wall. It may come in both deco & toggle styles.

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Control-Z-Wave-12730-Amazon/dp/B00PYMGVVQ

I'm pretty sure it's this

Our new house came with at least one ceiling fan in every room. I lucked out in that all of them were wired with separate switches or I would be looking at installing zwave switches in the fans themselves. As it is, all I had to do was replace the switchs on the walls with GE 12730

This GE is one of the only ones I have seen. You need to replace the switch in the wall with this though. There is nothing I have found that you can hook up to the fan instead.

https://www.amazon.com/GE-12730-Z-Wave-Smart-Control/dp/B00PYMGVVQ?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

Edit: This is just to get the commands to your fan, you would need a Smartthings hub to make the rest work. Not a simple setup I'm afraid.

You could also drop a ton of money on a Big Ass Fan that works with Echo.

https://www.haikuhome.com/?_ga=1.57736226.905240080.1464798273

If you already own the Hunter control, I'm sorry. If not, get this instead. https://www.amazon.com/GE-12730-Z-Wave-Smart-Control/dp/B00PYMGVVQ

That's really just two switches in one box. You'd replace the left one with any old smarthome light switch.

The right one you'd replace with a fan switch.

Is that hard wired? The reason I asked about the switch is because I'm hoping Hook will help since the switch I referenced uses RF. The GE Fan Switch only controls the fan, not the light kit. Hook should be able to mimic the RF controls for the fan switch that I have and has some Echo integration. This is all speculation at this point, but I'll post once my device arrives by the end of April.

EDIT: Nope, Hook doesn't work with this type of RF connected Fan switch.

https://smile.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Control-3-Speed-12730/dp/B00PYMGVVQ/

You could look into a RaspberryPi and the Pi version of the HomeSeer controller software. If you have a little time the software plus a Pi only costs a little more than a SmartThings. Otherwise I use SmartThings and I have really liked it so far.

As far as switches if you do not mind mixing brands this is what I do. Anywhere I have a dimmer, a 3+ way switch, or have the need for scenes I use HomeSeer. If I just have a regular switch I don't need to do anything fancy with I use GoControl switches as they are a bit cheaper if you look at the other sellers.

For the garage I use GoGoGate because I wanted to ability to give others access. I have seen others on this sub use these GoControl Garage Openers with contact sensors to verify open/closed.

I would also look into doing fan control

Depending on the size of your house and how many switches you are replacing this could get you pretty close to your $1k budget. You may need to add cameras later on. Also in your future endeavors I would look into EcoBee/Nest for temperature control.

https://www.amazon.com/GE-12730-Z-Wave-Smart-Control/dp/B00PYMGVVQ

Should work for you.

Might be able to install something like this and use it with any fan. http://www.amazon.com/GE-12730-Z-Wave-Smart-Control/dp/B00PYMGVVQ and use it with smart things. If you have a fan with infrared control you could hook it up to logitech harmony, then to smart things, then to alexa.

While I'm certainly envious of your handiwork with an Arduino and a soldering iron, I have two of these z-wave switches, and it's a lot simpler. Smartthings treats it like a dimmer out of the box, but adding this device type makes it perfectly seamless.

Sorry if there are formatting errors and such I am on mobile.

Basics

You should really consider a better HUB/products if you want this level of automation. You are going to want an offline hub such as Vera or Homeseer (what I use). Homeseer I know will interface with the echo Vera should. Hubs like wink/SmartThings end up not working when...

1. Your router doesn't work
   
2. Your ISP's connection drops
   
3. Hub's service provider (AWS most likely) goes down
   
4. Hub cloud service doesn't work or needs maintenance
   
5. Random outages/problems
   
   Similarly, you should NOT get a nest (or EcoBee). I have a nest and while I love the design it is fickle. I would instead recommend a z-wave thermostat. With a z-wave thermostat you can do almost everything nest can (no auto scheduling). Already Purchased
   
    
   
   You should seriously consider a different HUB
   
   

   Dimmers and Wall Switches
   

   
   Here is a good place to start. Lutron dimmers are fantastics although they can be a bit pricy (I don't think you mentioned a budget...). Other options include the GE 12724 for dimming if you want to go z-wave over Lutron. And, the GE 12722 for regular on/off. Or Homeseer is releasing new switches soon that look fantastic (Also z-wave)!
   
   Here's some more info. 1 2 3 4
   
   

   Garage Opener
   

   
   Chamberlain is great!
   
   

   Security
   

   
   If you cannot change/return your system that fine but I would recommend a DSC power series system as they almost universally integrate with automation systems Homeseer has a plugin as does Vera.
   
   

   Audio
   

   
   Sonos is fine. It can be controlled via Homeseer/Vera (Think announcements). Or you can get an Echo Dot and connect it to the sonos connect via an audio cable. GET a WHA controller (Check the Outdoor speaker section for recommendations)
   
   

   Front Door Cam/Doorbell
   

   
   Either Doorbird a doorbell and camera (expensive) or a normal doorbell with an IP camera with motion record. The integrated solution is better but of course more expensive. If you end up with IP cameras you should consider Hikvison they seem to make the best cameras for the money.
   
   

   Outdoor Light
   

   Just install the smart switch of your choice.
   
   

   Fan's
   

   Not sure sorry. :-( GE has a fan controlling switch but I doubt it would work as you mention remotes...
   
   

   Under Cabinet Lighting
   

   Hue lightstips, Aeon lightstrips or a WIFI / Z-wave LED controller with regular strips. (Will edit later with links)
   
   

   Outdoor Speakers
   

   The Daytons are fine you could also go with Yamaha NS-AW150. For integration you could connect them to the MONOPRICE 6 Zone Controller and AMP. You could also connect the Sonos CONNECT to the monopice and have outdoor audio + sonos audio and send audio to any other zones you have!
   
   
   
    
   
   PM me or comment if you need any more info :-)
   
    
   
   *Will edit and add more info when I get to a keyboard.

Is this what you are looking for? It's GE's Z-Wave fan control switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGVVQ/ref=asc_df_B00PYMGVVQ5057002/

OMG I've thought about the exact same thing! How does it not exist yet?? This is a GE/Jasco device I found earlier, but have't read too much into it - https://www.amazon.com/GE-12730-Z-Wave-Smart-Control/dp/B00PYMGVVQ

You could get these two devices and be able to control the fan and light independently with variable speed control and dimming capability.

1. Fan Switch:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/GE-12730-Z-Wave-Smart-Control/dp/B00PYMGVVQ
   
   
2. Light Control:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRQC7O6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   Both of them can be controlled via Alexa or through the UI on whatever hub you choose.
   
   Hope this helps!

So what I was thinking of was like this switch, but maybe I was having a bit of a brain fart and confusing parts... This one is specifically designed for a multi speed ceiling fan type device. I had thought that there was a concern about wattages on a bathroom exhaust type fan too, but looking at this switch it specifically lists fans as compatible (at least as long as they are under 600w).

Edit: ah ha! The warning is to not use a standard dimmer switch to control fan speed... use a specific fan rated dimmer... or like the first link above.

Doesn't GE have one too now?
GE Z-Wave Ceiling Fan Wall Switch (12730) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGVVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_powUub098BTZB

Not a problem! GE has a smart fan switch that will work for what you need.
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Control-Z-Wave-12730-Amazon/dp/B00PYMGVVQ
You would need a z-wave hub though.

Or you can get crazy with the Harmony and the Lutron Maestro IR fan and light switch
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017O71MI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_CHWyybQC0JFEJ
But no Siri voice control and probably awkward through Alexa.

There are probably other solutions but you can use GE's Z-Wave Smart Fan Control switch via SmartThings. Should work as well with the other Z-Wave hubs.

Install one of these and a dimmer for lights. , Run separate wiring to the fan box for bulbs
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PYMGVVQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title

The get an Emerson DC motor fan and a simple light kit.

Bullet proof and almost completely silent at speed. You'll love it.

I have two GE zwave fan switches using my wink hub and Amazon Echos. Works fine but obviously I'm waiting for wink integration for the home. I imagine it will work fine with a SmartThings hub.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PYMGVVQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478270095&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=ge+zwave+fan+control&dpPl=1&dpID=41OkQxFOfJL&ref=plSrch

You'll have to connect separate switches for the motor and the light. This may require installation of a larger wall switch electrical box (e.g. if you have a 1-Gang box, replace it with a 2-Gang box) and/or
running additional electrical wire to the fan from the wall box.

I've only seen two options for controlling fan motors: the GE 12730 or the Leviton VRF01-1LZ. There are a bunch of options for the light, but the HomeSeer HS-WD100+ seems to be the current favorite.

They do NOT need to be the same switch, just the opposite: most (all?) manufacturers make an "add on switch" for just such a purpose. The wiring gets kind of funky, not normal 3-way switch wiring.

Here is a walkthrough I found very helpful.

GE actually makes add-on switches for their Z-Wave smart switches, making them 3-way compatible. https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Switch-Z-Wave/dp/B00RKJS8MQ?th=1

I've even seen them in the big box stores.

Not familiar with 'bipolar' as applied to light switches (transistors and moods, yes). If you're talking about three way switches, then you have to wire the WeMo as a single pole switch: hot, common, neutral. You will call the traveler wire but not connect it to the new switch.

Alternatively, you can go Z-Wave and get a master switch and then an add-on switch and maintain your current functionality. Downside (if you want to call it that) is that you need a Z-wave hub and can't connect directly through wifi.

This might work: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-STANDALONE-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537995311&sr=8-3&keywords=ge+add-on


That's the add-on switch that works with the GE z-wave paddle switches. I don't have personal experience with these, but they are used for 2-way+ switch configurations. The packaging and information seems to read that the remote "add-on" switch mirrors itself to the "paired" switch. I would assume this is a pairing over z-wave, but not entirely sure. These are powered by the mains in the box. Might be worth checking out.

ahh, i see you what you mean. something like this add-on switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WNzqyb1WFHGY0?th=1

Thanks again for the help. I was hoping to setup exactly as it was, but I was thrown by the new switch ( https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-Lighting-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ) which only has connections for a neutral and traveler wire (https://byjasco.com/sites/default/files/product/manuals/12723%20EnFrSp%20QStart%20V2%20102714.pdf)

GE makes good z wave plus smart switches capable of 3 way switching. You would buy one of these

GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Switch, On/Off, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 14291 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_K4LZzbMEWM70Q

And one of more of these

GE Add-On Switch for GE Z-Wave, GE ZigBee and GE Bluetooth Wireless Smart Lighting Controls, NOT A STANDALONE SWITCH, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, 12723 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_y5LZzb3VB99ZF

Something like this? https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-Lighting-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479500062&sr=8-1&keywords=wave+compatible+add+on+switch

So just confirming, smartthings would find this as it's own switch that I can setup without needing a traveler?

Also, am I correct in assuming that this add-on switch would not work?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480478370&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=ge+zwave+add+on+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=41uBlu46cUL&ref=plSrch

I'm in the same boat and just replaced the box with a new, better quality one and installed a regular z-wave switch. It's been working fine.

There are outdoor switches, but they are kinda big. I use one for my pool vacuum.

You could wire up your own with something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Appliance-Required-Works-SmartThings-14285/dp/B00YTCZZF0/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_60_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=235289RK3A9A8V126PZ2

Pricey though...

This is a 40 - https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Appliance-12726/dp/B00YTCZZF0/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522897057&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=20+amp+zwave+switch

This is what I use to control my garage heater https://www.amazon.com/GE-Appliance-Required-Works-SmartThings-14285/dp/B00YTCZZF0

Ignoring the wall plug for a moment, what does the plug on the actual ac look like?

Edit: I'm dumb you posted a picture...

I don't have any good suggestions for a 20 amp appliance but I'll see what I can dig up.

Edit 2: I'm really only finding one other option and it seems even more expensive. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTCZZF0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_lhhZBb20AGE7N

It might be worth checking the model of the actual unit. We have two of the same model, one wired for 220v 40 amp and one for 110v 15 amp. Depending it might be as easy as swapping the power cord on the ac which would probably be the cheapest option.

This is really what you are looking for. It has energy monitoring, so you could use that to determine if it is drawing a load, you might even be able to work up some automation to tell you if it has a load during certain hours or if your phone is outside of the house.

I think something like this would work:
GE Z-Wave Plus Direct Wire 40 Amp Smart Switch, Indoor/Outdoor, 120-277V Lighting Appliance Control, Repeater/Range Extender, Zwave Hub Required-Works with SmartThings, Wink, and Alexa, 14285, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTCZZF0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Y.E9BbGX2TS07

It's just on/off, no temp control. But I don't see why you would want to change the temp remotely, as most water heaters are set it and forget it . But at least with this outlet hub you can definitely turn on and off to save some energy.

That's not going to be rated for the weather and probably not for the power requirements for your application

You'll want something like this, if your transformer draws 40 amps or less https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTCZZF0/

depending on your hub - I have smartthings
you should have several choices
you'll need to figure the max current draw of the fan or the HP
then install the appropriate switch

easiest would be the wall switch and some temp sensors, if it wil handle the load

I have the go control - originally for my old garage door (programmed as a momentary switch) - it will handle 20 amps and is cheap.

GE also has a 40 amp heavy zwave switch - for $150ish

with the smartthings hub you could program time on, time off , on for event, off for event , (event could be window opens , temp specified, etc) and then run time for specific period of time or if temp is satisfied with enough connected things you can control all kinds of things - fan included :)
good luck


direct load good for 20amps

GoControl Z-Wave Isolated Contact Fixture Module - FS20Z-1

https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Z-Wave-Isolated-Contact-Fixture/dp/B00ER6MH22/ref=pd_sim_60_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YX3EFBFRGMTV783BT193

GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Switch, On/Off, In-Wall
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=pd_sim_60_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BB38NVA9J8T5JFDE3QTJ

Incandescent - Minimum Load: 40W, Maximum Load: 960W
Motor – 1/2HP
Resistive – 1800W

GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting and Appliance Control, 40 Amp, Large Load, Direct-Wire, Indoor/Outdoor

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTCZZF0/ref=twister_B017SOTBJG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Hmm.. maybe it was discontinued... you could also try a Z-wave 40A plug from Amazon. They are usually configurable to 120-277V but cost more. Aeotec might make a cheaper one.

Here's one

I would worry about it costing more to heat it up as others have noted.

If you must - I know GE makes a 40 amp switch that would probably work

https://www.amazon.ca/GE-14285-Z-Wave-Switch-White/dp/B00YTCZZF0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=ge+40+amp+zwave&qid=1574113242&sr=8-1

This is what I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YTCZZF0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks. This is a switch rated for up to 40 amps so there shouldn't be any code violations using this with a 20 amp circuit. You can even connect 2 20 amp circuits into this.
http://z-wave-assets.s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/docs/124/B00YTCZZF0_GE_Jasco_40_Amp_Smart_Z-Wave_Switch_12726_Manual.pdf?1490359335

It sounds like you're more disappointed by the aesthetics of the device rather than the function? What would your ideal design be? Would it be modeled off of anything existing today? What kind of functions are you looking for? And what would make use more satisfying?

edi: How do the aesthetics of the Lutron remote compare? https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-LZL-4B-WH-L01-Connected-Bulb-Remote/dp/B014STZASK

I have the Wink hub and like it. I don't know how it compares to Smart Things. Some people, myself included, have had an issue where communication breaks down between HA and Wink, and HA stops displaying the current state of items, but I think that will be fixed in the next release.
The only reason I did that instead of a USB stick is that I started my home automation with Wink, and only tried Home Assistant when I saw how much more robust of a platform it was. That said, I do find it easier to add things to Wink than to HA, so that's a bonus. I also use these little remotes a few places: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-LZL-4B-WH-L01-Connected-Bulb-Remote/dp/B014STZASK/ And I don't know if they can be connected directly to HA yet.
Basically I use HA for most of my automations, but I use Wink for manual control of my items, whether I'm home or away.
However, it gets a little messy when I start adding things directly to HA because they're not Wink-compatible. Currently I have a Wifi plug that's not controllable by Wink and a Xioami hub with a couple of items hooked up to it, so I can no longer rely exclusively on the Wink hub for manual control.
Still, I like the hub, and I like the app, and since HA is doing all the automation from a Raspberry Pi, I never had to root it.

My guess is that you could do almost all of the same things using a HA installation with the right USB stick, but I still like Wink because I can get stuff added and working more quickly.

Yes, but you have to get the Lutron pico remote that works via Zigbee rather than Clear Connect.

Lutron LZL-4B-WH-L01 Connected Bulb Remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014STZASK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-Yr2AbER079XE

You can set it to turn on individual bulbs, or turn on entire scenes.

You can also use these Lutron remotes as wall switches...works with hue and each of the 4 buttons can trigger a scene.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014STZASK/ref=psdc_507840_t3_B01AANIVXE

Check out the Lutron Connected Bulb Remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014STZASK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8nohAbEZ20WS2. It’s basically a Zigbee remote for Hue and other zigbee bulbs.

I’ve replaced most of my bulbs with Hue and light switches with these. You can get the lutron pico Wall plate and put these remotes in your old switches. I removed my traditional switches and connected the wires together so the fixtures are always on. Been working great so far.

The trick with Abode is to pair the remote to the Abode hub, then pair the bulbs to the Abode hub, then pair the remote to the bulbs.

What you need is a Luton smart bulb remote, they have some making them but you might get lucky and find them. These pair with the Philips Hue bulbs and work great

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-LZL-4B-WH-L01-Connected-Bulb-Remote/dp/B014STZASK

is this part of the Hue ecosystem / friend of hue / bridge?

Would it pair with the hue dimming switch or the lutron remote?
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-LZL-4B-WH-L01-Connected-Bulb-Remote/dp/B014STZASK

ty.

not zwave but https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-LZL-4B-WH-L01-Connected-Bulb-Remote/dp/B014STZASK

get that and the mounting kit

this? and it works out of the box with hue?

As mentioned by Doombot5 I’d opt by taking the switch out. I’ve bought 2 Phillips Hue dimmer switches and just don’t use them any more. Mostly because I bought Lutrons wireless pico remotes. I pulled the old rocker switch out, connected the wires together (Always on) and paired the remote to the bulbs I wanted the remote to control. It has dimmer capabilities but not scene selective. Lutron sells mounting brackets and face plates for the wireless remotes so if you choose they can cover the removed switch and replace it. It looks quite good and you’d never know that the switch is wireless. For me it was the best option that eliminates the switch cutting power and allowing people who prefer switches to still have the option.

I don’t regret at all switching to this method, I only regret not doing it sooner!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014STZASK/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1505659804&sr=8-10&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=pico+remote

Not sure what you mean. If you need an on/off switch without dimming there are a couple in the Caseta range, here is one of them: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017LRCG38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_4stHxbK40YK33

There is also a lower power rated one that doesn't require a neutral. Both work with the hub or can be paired with a Pico as expected.

Most gas fireplaces today us a millivolt gas value. If your fireplace happens to have a fan switch or 120v available near the fireplace switch you maybe in luck. I used the 120v from the fan of my fireplace in parallel to power a relay and added a Lutron Caseta switch in series to turn the 120v on/off to the relay which in turn opens or closes the contacts for the low voltage solenoid. The added benefit of using a smart switch is being able to add it to my voice assistant Alexa or Home Assistant.

120v White wire -> relay <--> smart switch <- 120v Black wire

..................................coil.................................................................

......millivolt line<-> N.O. <-> millivolt line.......

Some more info on fireplace wiring.

There are fireplace remotes available depending on your fireplace's solenoid.

I haven’t tried them, but there are supposed to be ceiling fan switches that can be controlled through GH or Alexa. For example, Lutron appears they have one that does:

• https://smile.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-PD-6ANS-WH-Assistant/dp/B017LRCG38/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1536586475&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=ceiling+fan+switch+lutron&psc=1
  
  Lutron also has an IFTTT service. So, this switch might work with the IFTTT service.

no. I'm referring to switches, not dimmers. I've used two different Lutron ones:

• PD-5... - https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-PD-5S-DV-WH-Button-Switch-White/dp/B00NCEMBIA/ref=sr_1_sc_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1550682766&sr=8-2-spell&keywords=PD5+lutron
  
• PD-6... - https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-PD-6ANS-WH-Assistant/dp/B017LRCG38/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1550682899&sr=8-3&keywords=lutron+switch
  
  One has two black wires, the other has a red for the load.
  
  ​
  
  ​

I have this switch: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B017LRCG38/
So far I couldn't get it to work with Wink...

Caseta non-dimmer switch?

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-PD-6ANS-WH-Assistant/dp/B017LRCG38/ref=mp_s_a_1_3/130-7064671-9462863?ie=UTF8&qid=1540688367&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=caseta+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=41UwzP2BZPL&ref=plSrch

I did this exactly in my backyard. I threw one of the more expensive Caseta dimmers INSIDE a weatherproof box outside and hard wired my patio lights into the junction box. It could have just as easily been the cheaper dimmer or the regular 6A switch and not the dimmer and it would have worked just as well. I spent a little more on the more expensive dimmer because the load was so low with the patio lights (20w total) that I didn't want any flickering or weirdness. I hardwired only because I didn't NEED a dimmable outlet, but you could also just as easily put a receptacle after the dimmer/switch.

​

I say all that just to let you know what you are asking for is entirely doable, like cduff77 mentioned, just get the plug-in dimmer, tie off the wall switch so it's always on and replace it with a wall mounted pico pemote. The whole thing will run you about $75 but it is well worth it.

​

Lutron hit it out of the PARK with Caseta, it's the most reliable smart device I have, and I have a ton (Ring Doorbell, August Lock, Philip's Hue, EcoBee Thermostat). All they need is to come out with a multi-speed fan controller and a couple of smart outlets (Controllable with Picos, just like you want) and they will own the game.

Has anyone used one of these for a ceiling fan combo? https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Caseta-Wireless-Switch-Multi-Location/dp/B017LRCG38/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1497447376&sr=8-6&keywords=Pd-6wcl

Be sure to check the compatibility list on the Lutron website. Not all LEDs work with the dimmer and will result in flashing when the lights are off (learned that the hard way). Lutron also makes an on/off switch that seems to work with all LEDs. Lutron Caseta Wireless Switch, Multi-Location, In-Wall, 6 Amp, Works with Amazon Ale... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017LRCG38/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_cArszbEFVB0SC . I've installed three of these in three-way configurations and did have a bit of a problem with one of the locations that had a chandelier with a mix of different type bulbs. I called and they sent me a remote to install in the wall. I haven't installed it yet, but the lights do work when controlled by the phone,Alexa, and the Lutron switch, just not at the mechanical switch location that I have to replace.

The Lutron Caseta dimming switches (that do not require a neutral wire) are for dimmable lighting only. Lutron does make non-dimming Caseta switches (that do require a neutral wire) for non-dimmable lighting and fans, such as the model PD-6ANS-WH, but it also has a light bulb on it.

Sure, here's an Amazon link.

Yeah. The wall touchscreen is a little "too much" for me.

Is this the type of switch you are referring to? How would I "pair it" with various Hue bulbs? Thanks


Lutron Caseta Wireless Switch, Multi-Location, In-Wall, 6 Amp, Works with Amazon Alexa, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017LRCG38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_eSUxzbQ6M8GXC

> The non-dimmer unit seems to be like $80'ish

$54.95 for the Caseta switch on Amazon

Amazon has the Lutron Caseta on/off switches. For some reason they actually cost more than the dimmers.

ttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B017LRCG38/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_xs_6HwkybV1BNKFQ

You've probably already found this but Lutron does offer a switch that can handle the power requirements of a fan, but unlike their dimmers it does require neutral wiring. Every switch I've seen that claimed to be appropriate for fans requires it. Might be something an electrician could add for you?

Lutron doesn't have a single switch that can control both lights and fans separately. You'd need two separate switches, the one linked above for the fan and a separate dimmer for the lights.

I don't use z wave so I'm not up to date on the options there.

I think you might be looking for this:
SYLVANIA LIGHTIFY by Osram - Smart Home- Dimming Switch for all LIGHTIFY Products Control your Smart Home System at the Touch of a Button, Works with Alexa (hub required) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196M620Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8OfCybXA5VXDY
I use one with my SmartThings Hub and it works great.

Do you like the look of the Lutron pico remote on a wall bracket?

Contradicting what I said in my last comment, Lutron is also a good option, but they use a proprietary communication protocol that requires a Lutron hub.

There are several other options that would work with an ST hub, if a design catches your eye:

• Eaton 1
  
  
• Eaton 2
  
  
• Sylvania
  
  
• Aeotec
  
  All of those will work with a Smartthings hub, since it has both zigbee and z-wave.

Someone else said the same thing lol. There's also these https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-LIGHTIFY-Wireless-SmartThings-Assistant/dp/B0196M620Y
Same concept but looks better.

OSRAM LIGHTIFY Dimming Switch looks good. Not available on the EU frequency from what I can see though :(

I use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196M620Y/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_o8EqDbTC1P2HK

in Smartthings.

It fits over a light switch so you can no longer use it and can be set up to connect to Hue through Smartthings.

There's also the new Lutron Aurora. http://www.lutron.com/en-US/Products/Pages/StandAloneControls/Dimmers-Switches/SmartBulbDimmer/overview.aspx It connects directly to the Hue hub and is nicer looking, but pricier.

Alternatively, you can get Switches for insteon or caseta. Both require their own hub but they have no neutral required switches. It won't work directly with Hue, but it will act as a kill switch for power to the Hue lights so it just may require multiple commands like "turn on caseta kitchen lights, set hue kitchen lights to blue".

Here you go:

SYLVANIA LIGHTIFY ZigBee 2 Button Wireless Dimmer Switch, Works with SmartThings, Hub Needed for Amazon Alexa or the Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196M620Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yOG5Ab9B22XYP

My house had similar wiring in several rooms, so I removed the wall switches and simply tied the wires together so the outlets would remain on. Then I bought some of these and mated them to a SmartThings hub to do something similar to what you describe:

• SYLVANIA LIGHTIFY 2 Button Wireless Dimmer Switch
  
• GE ZigBee Smart Lighting Dimmer, Plug-In, 2-Outlet, Led & CFL Bulb compatible
  
  In the SmartThings App, you can set up Routines "[Room Name] Lights On" and "[Room Name] Lights Off", and you can set them to "Automatically perform '[Room Name] Lights On' when... Something turns on or off." Then you pick the switch you wanted to perform the routine.
  
  Beware, there's a caveat:
  
  Communication from the switch, through the Zigbee network, to the hub, to the Internet, to the SmartThings service, and all the way back to the outlets is slow -- like, it takes 5 whole seconds to turn the lights on -- which, even after a year, is still enough time to make me think, Oh, I probably didn't actually click the switch. It's not something I would recommend to the average person who just likes things to work, but, if you're looking for a very specific solution with the lights and wiring you have, it is actually faster than using voice control. Good luck.

I'm using Sylvania Smart Home 73743 Lightify Smart Dimming Switch, Dimmer, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196M620Y/ cause I wanted to use it over the existing switch.

Yes it's funky looking, but the one I got does mount directly over your existing switch.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196M620Y

Lightify switches mount over a dumb switch. You just pop it off and toggle the switch.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0196M620Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1512069064&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=lightify+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=31RTusR3UNL&ref=plSrch

Hey there, I was looking this stuff up recently and came across this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0196M620Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I like this a lot (though it's a little large). We use it to control the Hue bulbs in our nightstand lamps individually instead of the physical switch. Works like a charm.

I use these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0196M620Y/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have these for my wall switches. https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Fixtures-Anywhere-HS200/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1483896100&sr=1-1&keywords=tp+link+smart+light+switch They work great, easy to set up, but no dimmer. I replaced the wemo ones since I didnt have much luck with them working and setting them up was a pita.

I use Kasa switches and love them. Just make sure you have a neutral wire available on your box.

Kasa Smart Light Switch by TP-Link - Needs Neutral Wire, WiFi Light Switch, Works with Alexa & Google (HS200) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_IaOpDbAW7H425

So the plus just gets you Zigbee control. I have an Echo Plus, but all my smart home devices are wifi, and not Zigbee (except a few hue lights, but I already have the hub for that).

So I'm controlling:

• 2 smart light switches, 1 smart dimmer (all wemo)
  
  
• ~6 hue bulbs
  
  
• 2 tp link bulbs
  
  
• wemo outlet
  
  All over wifi.
  
  You'd need the echo plus to control:
  This light switch without a hub, but you wouldn't need it for this other switch.
  
  I did some googling, and it looks like no Apple TVs do Zigbee. So the normal echo should be able to do everything it can currently do. The plus just opens the option to directly control Zigbee devices.
  
  edit: as /u/RichardBLine correctly pointed out, Echo Plus supports Zigbee and not Z-wave. I've updated the post and links. Thanks!

Thank you so much for your reply! I'm potentially installing totally new light switches and I thought I read somewhere that the Phillips Hue switches aren't hardwired or something like that. Any idea what the ideal "hard-wired" light switch would be? Maybe something like this https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Requires-Assistant-HS200/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1512064629&sr=8-1&keywords=smart+light+switch

I don't actually know anything about electric wiring so I'm not 100% sure what hard wired means.

That one doesn't look bad, but there are several reviews on it that state that it has connectivity issues. Another person suggested this one, what do you think?

Baring sales TP-Link and Wemo aren't usually too far apart. TP-Link currently has their HS200 though for $21 which is a steal: https://smile.amazon.com/Smart-Wi-Fi-Light-Switch-TP-Link/dp/B01EZV35QU/

Camel camel camel tells me that's the lowest price ever.

Just did this recently with my outdoor lights. I installed this:
https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Wi-Fi-Light-Switch-TP-Link/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537972541&sr=8-3&keywords=kasa+smart+switch


It is awesome, i can turn on/ff the lights with the switch or use the app. The app works wonderfully, no delays.