Best electrical testers according to redditors

We found 1,598 Reddit comments discussing the best electrical testers. We ranked the 472 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Subcategories:

Electrical battery testers
Circuit testers

Top Reddit comments about Electrical Testers:

u/vesperholly · 154 pointsr/LifeProTips

Also if the house is pre-1960s, get this little gizmo and test for grounded outlets. Three-pronged outlets do NOT automatically mean they're grounded. It doesn't necessarily mean you need to rewire the house or anything, but it's something to be aware of.

u/Freedomgoat · 83 pointsr/electricians

Do yourself a favor and buy a circuit breaker finder, the tool has paid for itself for the time it saved me.

https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-ET300-Electrical-Standard/dp/B003LHJSY8/

Just for the love of god what is Kline's fascination with stupid push buttons that get activated in the back of the van so i gotta hear beeping from that and the five wireless testers i have lost in other bags?

u/skintigh · 64 pointsr/pics
u/Camera_dude · 61 pointsr/talesfromtechsupport

I've only had to repair an outlet a few times but this method is pretty safe:

Flip the breakers for the outlets in the room (do NOT trust the labels on a breaker box, lazy contractors often fail to label properly), then take an outlet tester and plug it into both outlets on the one you're working on AND a neighboring outlet. If it doesn't light up, you're good to start opening up the outlet.

Triple-check that the wiring is done right when you're finished and cable nuts/clamps fully secure all wires then power back on the breaker. Test again with an outlet tester before plugging in any electronics. IMMEDIATELY flip off the breaker again if the tester does not show the correct led light set.

The important part of doing any home repairs is never assume that something is off, or that there's no juice going to that wire. Check always anyway. 10 seconds of testing saves 10 days in a hospital.

u/how_do_i_change_this · 51 pointsr/OSHA

Yea. OP should take his plug-in tester next time to find out.

Edit: One of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AKX8L0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ubaXAbTVZKVJJ

u/jlt6666 · 47 pointsr/buildapc

Naw, just get one of these. Way easier and will tell you about upstream issues.

u/doctechnical · 43 pointsr/videos

> And one would think that the installer should test that kind of stuff.

If you had someone come to your house to install a big-screen TV, would you expect them to check the outlets to make sure they were wired correctly?

What I would do if I were you: Go to you local hardware store and buy an outlet tester like this - shouldn't be more than five or six bucks. Plug that sucker in and look at the lights. It will tell you instantly if the outlet is wired correctly or not.

If it isn't, call an electrician to fix that.

u/Tehrow · 37 pointsr/ElectricalEngineering

https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Receptacle-Outlet-Ground-Tester/dp/B0012DHVQ0

Above is the answer.
Also, do not consult this electrician again after:

> He also said that the the electricity has been "cleaned out" even before the house could use it so it's not possible that it's the grounding.

u/punkynyan · 30 pointsr/buildapc

Your home may be universally wired incorrectly...

Get one of these things at the hardware store and check: https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-3-Wire-Receptacle-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA

u/parametrek · 26 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

It sounds like some of the outlets might have a reversed hot/neutral. Get a cheap outlet tester to find out. And a pigtail adapter to test the 2-prong outlets. Fixing it is pretty simple if you are comfortable working with wiring.

u/dmanww · 25 pointsr/OSHA

Something like this

The plug generates a signal on the circuit that the finder looks for.

u/electriker · 18 pointsr/electricians

https://www.amazon.com/Extech-480172-AC-Line-Splitter/dp/B0000YHN9W

Otherwise, you need to separate the hot and neutral as in a panel or receptacle. The magnetic fields of the two conductors cancel each other out.

u/jabbadarth · 16 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Shut the power off at the breaker, pull the switch out and take a picture. Also this before you do anything.

u/ameoba · 15 pointsr/buildapc

Get an outlet tester. If this wasn't a problem before, I suspect somebody did a shitty job wiring up your place. If the wiring is faulty... umm... I'm not sure how to fix it but, technically, it should be your landlord's problem but things might not work that way in Indonesia.

I wouldn't plug in the PC until you've got that figured out unless you're OK with with frying your computer to get in a few more rounds of DOTA.

u/knucklebone · 15 pointsr/sysadmin

sounds like a power surge got the switch... is it plugged into a quality surge protector? Also, try a plug tester like this to make sure the ports are wired up properly and the ground is working. I've seen this happen a few times, and had it happen personally from a messed up plug. Surge suppression is usually only on the live side of the mains.

Another thing to remember, is that the surge suppression components in power strips do degrade over time, and may not provide proper protection.

u/DonCasper · 14 pointsr/homelab

I prefer the plug tester that actually plugs into the wall because the non-contact ones can be tripped by live wires in the same junction box.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUL2UU/

I think I got mine at a home improvement store for $5. Obviously it's for standard us outlets only.

u/chortle-guffaw · 13 pointsr/legaladvice

The receptacle may be grounded. Buy a three-prong adapter. It will have a metal grounding tab on the end that can be screwed into the wall plate. Buy a receptacle tester at any hardware store and plug it into the adapter. It will tell you if there is ground or not.

u/cloudmech · 13 pointsr/applehelp

OP this is actually a problem you should get fixed soon. Stop by a hardware store and pick up an inexpensive outlet tester - it looks like a male three prong plug with lights on the other side and a little chart to tell you what they mean

Test your outlets to confirm they're grounded. As your Mac generates EMI inside it relies on the case for grounding - it can build up a low level of voltage you probably won't feel.

The reason you're picking up an AM station is that radio is a form of radiation and your giant aluminum box is getting hit with. Without a ground - it is one giant antenna funneling all sorts of emi radiation into the box. Not good for the of your computer and could pose a risk to you.

If you find it's not grounded, that's not up to code in most places - work with your landlord or building manger to resolve the issue.


http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Receptacle_tester

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002LZTKIA?pc_redir=1409579983&robot_redir=1

u/trolls_brigade · 13 pointsr/OSHA

Get an outlet tester (for instance http://smile.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-RT210-Receptacle-Tester/dp/B01AKX8L0M) and check the entire house. I have an old house as well, and I am slowly replacing the original knob & tube wiring with Romex.

u/INeedARandomHero · 12 pointsr/sffpc

This is what he means.

It's about 30 bucks and will make sure a faulty cable pinout will only blow a PSU (worst case) rather then your whole system.

Check out /r/pcsleeving for all your tutorial needs.

u/HumansRso2000andL8 · 12 pointsr/RASPBERRY_PI_PROJECTS

Get a pi 3, because integrated wifi + bluetooth.

I would suggest that you buy a good quality power supply (Canakit is good, else the official rpi one). Just don't use chinese crap or a phone charger.

Also, get a good SD card. I strongly suggest a Samsung Evo+ 16GB bought from a reputable seller.

A breakout board of this type can be useful (albeit not essential at all)
https://www.adafruit.com/product/914

I personally bought a kit from Canakit including the previously mentionned stuff. It's a good kit, but not necessarily a great value. The SD card they include is good but not great, and I didn't like the case.

Then for everything electronics, Aliexpress and Ebay are your new best friends. You'll find the same stuff on Amazon, but you'll end up paying 2-3x the price. I cannot suggest a kit of electronic components, because it is a bit ridiculous to just buy 30 resistors. Get 600 of them for 5$ instead.

Edit: here is a copy of a previous answer I've given to a similar question.

Basic Power supply. You probably already have a 5v wall wart, check if it can supply 2.5A. If it came with a product you bought, it's decent quality. If you need to buy one, get it from Element 14 or an other reputable store. You can find cheaper ones, but I strongly advise against getting a random Chinese psu. Doing so would be asking for trouble.

Numerical signal doesn't require high quality cables. This would will do just fine. 3.72 CAD http://www.ebay.ca/itm/6FT-HDMI-1-4-3D-Cable-HDTV-High-Speed-Ethernet-ps3-bluray-1080p-FREE-SHIPPING-/131144973049?hash=item1e88d97af9:g:2gcAAOxyJX1TAj3K

I don't think this is essential at all, but the kit you linked contained one. I bought this one and I'm happy with it. If you want to save some money, I would skip this guy.
$4.10 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Raspberry-Pi-model-B-plus-T-cobbler-expansion-DIY-kit-GPIO-cable-breadboard-GPIO-T-adapter/2046473508.html

$2.04 830 points decent cheapo breadboard. Maybe get more than one. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/181227589427?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Aligator clips. I think 50cm is too long, maybe get 2 sets and shorten the cables of one.
$1.55 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/1set-10pcs-Alligator-Clips-Electrical-DIY-Test-Leads-Alligator-Double-ended-Crocodile-Clips-Roach-Clip-Test/32580823346.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.11.Q66gPn&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_0,searchweb201602_2_10017_10005_10006_10034_10021_507_10022_10020_10018_10019,searchweb201603_6&btsid=9259cb1d-c2e2-42ff-a599-3f468f6ecc6e

The kit you linked contains 5 resistors. That is a joke. Get this assortment and have fun sorting them.
$2.68 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/30-Kinds-1-4w-Resistance-1-Accuracy-Metal-Film-Resistor-Bag-600pcs-in-1-Set-Passive/1752861568.html

$1.10 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/100PC-Lot-3MM-5MM-Led-Kit-Mixed-Color-Red-Green-Yellow-Blue-White-Light-Emitting-Diode/32376627762.html You can also get RGB if you want, but they are a bit more expansive. LEDS sure are fun to play around with.

Jumpers. Essential to connect stuff to the pi. $2.84 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Dupont-line-120pcs-20cm-male-to-male-male-to-female-and-female-to-female-jumper-wire/1490773403.html
More jumpers. Those are for connecting stuff on a breadboard. I don't really like those as your board will get messy quickly, but at least this kit contains shorter jumpers than the previous one, so it's a nice addition. I would suggest you get 6 colors x 25m of 22 AWG SOLID CORE wire. You can cut it to length and make your own jumpers. I got a kit from Elenco for about 20$ on Amazon. If you want to do some breadboarding, I consider than as an essential. $1.38 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Hot-Sale-65pcs-lot-Jump-Wire-Cable-Male-to-Male-Flexible-Jumper-Wires-for-Arduino-Breadboard/32437796067.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.10.PzcAVY&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_0,searchweb201602_2_10017_10005_10006_10034_10021_507_10022_10020_10018_10019,searchweb201603_6&btsid=ad849cd3-deff-4e0b-92ae-e3d15373fd4a

Cheapo potentiometer kit. $3.30 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-10pcs-Linear-Potentiometer-1K-Ohm-5K-Ohm-20K-Ohm-100K-Ohm-220K-Ohm-Assortment/533133005.html
Those with 4 leads are a pain in the breadboard. They keep jumping out and stuff. Plus you won't find any use for the extra pair of leads.

$1.99 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-100PCS-2-pins-6-6-5-mm-Switch-Tactile-Push-Button-Switches-6x6x5mm/1523104421.html

Not essential, but cheap and fun!
$0.99 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/5PCS-LOT-0-56-inch-1-Bit-7-Segment-Red-LED-Display-Digital-Tube-Plastic-Metal/32335395078.html

You will need those sooner than you think to make a a circuit you'll find on instructables. For one pezo, you can't go wrong.
$0.95 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-20PCS-LOT-New-NE555-NE555P-NE555N-555-Timers-DIP-8-TEXAS/32328453891.html

Because you won't do breadboarding with your pi all the time. Get a battery connector (next item) to power the board. I suggest you bookmark this shop! Robotdyn is the BEST SHOP on Aliexpress by far. Few items, but very high quality (like, amazing quality and the best packaging I've seen so far). Why not get an arduino nano or uno for a few dollars? Sometimes an arduino is better suited for a project, and they are so cheap.
$1.19 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Breadboard-Power-Supply-5V-3-3V-1A/32581547480.html

$0.51 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-2pcs-90-DC-9V-Battery-button-power-plug-for-Arduino-Mega-2560-1280-UNO/32236294183.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.2.vdMJ0V&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_0,searchweb201602_2_10017_10005_10006_10034_10021_507_10022_10020_10018_10019,searchweb201603_6&btsid=5c916f06-2c87-48bf-9075-e191078d3d89

Cheap cutters, but they cut very well! The only cutters you'll need for a while. $2.14 Wire cutters http://www.ebay.ca/itm/322001218703?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
You'll also need some long nose pliers. Again, no need to get anything fancy.

But if you want to make a gift to yourself, I am absolutely in love with those pliers (make in Italy) http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-PN-2007-Long-Nose-Outside-Serrated/dp/B00FZPHEW2/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1460924870&sr=8-1&keywords=hakko+pliers

I don't consider a case as an essential. But I love cases. And this one is one of my favorites. It's compatible with the pi3 and because it allows a good airflow, you won't need to add a fan. Just get a "heatsink for rpi" (1$ on Aliexpress) if it doesn't come with your pi.
$3.15 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Raspberry-Pi-2-model-B-Acrylic-Clear-Case-with-logo-Compatible-with-Raspberry-Pi-B-plus/32334774743.html

Nice and cheap kit, but by no mean essential for a beginner.
$3.84 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/100pcs-set-RM065-Trimming-Potentiometer-Variable-Resistors-Assorted-Kit-10-Values-Each-10pcs/32596638037.html

If you get in the hobby of electronics, you'll need some caps. This kit has most values you'll ever need.
$6.50 http://www.ebay.ca/itm/15-value-120pcs-50V-Electrolytic-Capacitor-Assortment-Kit-Set-/131155968234?hash=item1e898140ea:g:w0QAAOxykmZTOlin

Finally, I strongly suggest you get a multimeter. Either get the cheapest one you can find like this one : http://www.amazon.com/General-Hand-held-Multimeter-Transistor-Function/dp/B00066ZZO4/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1460925081&sr=8-6&keywords=multimeter (it will do everything you need just fine) or get a Unity UT-61E for about $50. The absolute best meter for the electronic hobbyist, but by no mean required for a beginner. Just don't go in the middle. Don't.

u/Nicker · 12 pointsr/Monitors

you could always get something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU

lets you know if your outlets are properly grounded. once you find the bad ones, you can work on tieing in new wiring for grounding in rooms that have sensitive electronics you don't want fried.

u/masta · 12 pointsr/audioengineering

Former electrician here. Electrical grounding is very important for your safety. That is why the ground line to every outlet is highly regulated, and not optional. That being said, the grounding on any outlet in your home is connected to every other ground in your home. If there is some kind of ground fault, say for example a neutral-to-ground anywhere on that circuit, it can not only cause hum (sarcastic understatement /s)... it can cause a fire! Audio people tend to deal with "hum" and it leads to a phenomena called "audiophile" where bogus suppositions become regarded as audio truths, pretty much any unchallenged supposition eventually becomes a bias over time. That being said, it's not entirely untrue; Many audio cables are unbalanced circuits and generate their own noise. Induction, and RF interference are big contributors to this effect. Anyways, all I can say for your power outlets is to test them with a device mostly because I would not want you to damage your expensive equipment on faulty wiring. I would also highly recommend using a UPS between the wall and the equipment.

u/asilvermtzion · 11 pointsr/synthesizers

It's not normal and is potentially dangerous. It seems likely you have a grounding issue and such problems have, historically, been fatal to some musicians, particularly guitarists, Keith Relf of the Yardbirds for instance. Modern equipment tends to be a lot safer and electrocution is less likely but it's still a risk. While the voltage you've felt, so far, is harmless it could indicate that you're ungrounded and if a fault were to develop with any of the interconnected equipment stray voltage could be present on the conductive surfaces of your gear and the cables connected to them.

You in the US? Get an electrical outlet tester like one of these and test the wall outlets you use. If the tester shows a fault get an electrician to come and repair it. If the wall outlets test as OK, test the first power strip, then the next, then the next, until you find where the fault is and then dispose of that strip and get a new one.

u/AtomicFlx · 11 pointsr/amateurradio

You might want to travel with a plug tester like this. Would make for an exciting day to find the hot and ground swapped because some idiot didn't know how to hook up a plug properly.

u/mgzukowski · 11 pointsr/OSHA

https://www.amazon.com/Voltage-Protection-Klein-Tools-NCVT-2/dp/B004FXJOQO

Essentially you put it next to a suspected AC voltage and if it's present it lights up.

u/jchamb2010 · 10 pointsr/homeautomation

To add to this:

Do *NOT* under any circumstances rely on a no-contact tester to tell you that a wire is safe to touch. They are good for helping you make a determination between two wires as described above, but they can and do give false readings in both directions.


The voltage reading off a good multimeter (with contact probes) should be used to be certain that a circuit is indeed turned off. Make sure you get one with a separate current lead socket (usually this means they have 3 holes at the bottom of the meter) this will save you from blowing up your meter if you accidentally switch to current sensing while connected to high voltage (been there, done that, its not pleasant avoid the headache)


There are a wide variety of multimeters available in all price ranges, but here's a very inexpensive one on Amazon that should work OK for this use case. It might not be 100% accurate, but I'm sure it'll be able to tell you if there's 120v or not :) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ISAMUA6

u/AbrasiveCockapert · 10 pointsr/AskElectronics
u/randallphoto · 10 pointsr/buildapc

As long as you're not exceeding 2000+ watts in the same room, you'll likely be fine as most circuits in the US have 15-20amp breakers/fuses.

No real danger of a blackout or brown out, the computer will just shut off. You could always pick up a UPS backup if you're worried about that.

If you live in a place that has lightning I would recommend a good surge protector, not just a power strip.

Only possible super rare thing I've seen to worry about with electricity and computers is if you have a computer on one outlet and you connect HDMI or similar to a TV that's plugged into another circuit and if there's an issue with wiring in your house/apt it could burn things out. I use one of these http://www.amazon.com/GE-50542-3-Wire-Receptacle-Tester/dp/B002LZTKIA/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1398086820&sr=1-1&keywords=receptacle+tester to test circuits to be sure :P

u/iBody · 9 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Id start with something line this starter set, a 3/8 breaker bar, 1/2 breaker bar, a Decent torque wrench, a plier set, vice grips, channel locks, adjustable wrench, screw driver set, a multimeter, decent scan tool, a jack, a funnell some drain pans from walmart, pb blaster, jack stands and make some wheel chocks. I'm sure I'm missing something pertinent, but remember you can rent some tools at your local parts store for free with a deposit so check to see what they rent before you buy. Also buy the remainder of the tools as you need them, its tough buying a lot of tools at once especially once you develop an affinity for some quality tools. A lot of the youtube guys have videos on what they use they most, but what I've listed should cover most maintenance tasks for your car.

u/francis2559 · 9 pointsr/legaladvice

This tester is what you are describing and should do pretty much everything (testing to see if outlet still works, checking for ground faults, etc.) No need for carrying a lamp around.

And yeah, they are super cheap.

u/danielibew952 · 8 pointsr/electricians

Fluke t5-600 works for me. It does it’s job and it’s not to bulky.

Fluke T5600 Electrical Voltage, Continuity and Current Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006Z3GZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_j32uDbGSG1SYG

u/uint16_t · 8 pointsr/ECE

My Extech EX330 just survived a pit bull, so I'm impressed with it. It's a pretty good multimeter for the price. I bought mine at OSH for $49.95.

u/Nuhhea · 8 pointsr/AskMenOver30

Electrical outlet tester - Use on each outlet in the home to make sure all is working properly and not needing work done. I used Sperry Tester
Test the sinks, toilets and showers. Run both cold water and hot water through each sink/shower and flush the toilets a couple of times.
Ask about pest control, how often, who does it.
How do you contact maintenance for any requests? How quickly can they come out to assist?
Check the windows and make sure they can open, or are securely locked.
Who has keys to your location? Did the last tenant turn in all keys? Can you get the location re-keyed for a small fee?
Hope this helps!

u/immaseaman · 8 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Look into code, don't cut corners and get yourself one of these outlet testers to check your work. Like someone else said, hooking up sub panels and big jobs, have someone come in.

I'm lucky my brother in law is a very professional electrician, I always check my plans with him and I do all the work. He'll come and make the connection at the panel just to be safe, but after watching him I'd feel comfortable doing that.

u/super_not_clever · 8 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I know in my case for my most recent house, I used a Circuit Breaker Finder. Have a helper plug it into an outlet, scan the panel til you find what you think it is. Flip the breaker, the power light at on the unit plugged in goes off to confirm, write it down, move on. That, with a light socket plug adatper got the majority of circuits out of the way. I was lucky that I had the finder at work, and can see how spending $40 can be a bit much for what most people see as a one time task.

For previous houses, I've had a few different methods. If I'm doing the entire house, I'd grab as many electric things as I could find and plug them in all over. Lamps, plug testers, radios, basically anything that would give me indication that the power was on or not. Then yes, sweep.

If I'm looking for a single breaker, I would just plug in a set of speakers, play some music and flip breakers until the music stops.

u/lee_is_me · 7 pointsr/howto

As others have stated that's an equipment ground plug so it shouldn't be any problem but to be safe when removing any broken cord prongs from an outlet.

  1. Turn off the power. Use a handy plugin or induction tester to ensure the power is off.plug in tester induction tester

  2. keep both feet squarely on the ground and wear rubber soles. Do not take a knee or touch the ground with any other part of your body. Do not lean against the wall in any way. Do not touch any exposed metal surfaces, counter tops or sinks.

  3. tuck one hand behind your back and use the other hand to pull out the object with a pair of pliers.

    When in doubt hire a professional. Safety first.
u/InSOmnlaC · 7 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/station_nine · 7 pointsr/juul

Blinking red means the battery is totally dead. The pulsing white LED while it was “charging” was, unfortunately, a lie. These units sometimes lie like that. They make just enough contact with the charging pins to get the LED going, but not enough to actually, you know, charge the fucking battery.

I had the same problem with one of my units. I bought one of these in order to verify when the Juul is actually taking current vs. being a filthy liar.

You can try cleaning the contacts on the bottom of the Juul and on the charger itself. Use rubbing alcohol on a cotton swab and really get in there. A toothpick works well also.

If it gets to be too much hassle, file a warranty claim. They’ll replace it with the newer version that has improved bottom contacts.

u/kaihatsusha · 7 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Dude, the whole fucking point of a Raspberry Pi is to LEARN things about how computers work.

There are plenty of cheap multimeters out there. Here's a cheap DMM on Amazon for ten bucks. I have seen cheaper ones at Harbor Freight and on sites like Banggood.

A DMM is only a single use item if you have zero intention of LEARNING things, which from your bitching here is a serious possibility. I completely agree with /u/WindWalkerWhoosh that you're acting incredibly entitled, and now over-the-top rude with your ingratitude.

If you don't want to LEARN about computing, you just want other internet strangers to wave their magic wands and fix something with zero diagnostic data, then go buy another Raspberry Pi and get lost.

u/amaraNT2oo2 · 7 pointsr/EngineeringStudents

Nice - you'll be glad to have that variety of tips, depending on what you are working on! If you have any spare Christmas money, I'd recommend picking up one of these self-adjusting wire strippers - it sort of matches your color scheme too! And if you do a lot of de-soldering (anything with lots of headers or through-hole IC sockets), a desoldering iron can save a ton of time compared to your solder wick and desoldering pump.

A few other things that I've found useful (mostly repairing electronic keyboards / synthesizers, although I'm hoping to get more into Arduino / Pi soon):

Hakko wire cutter

Helping hand

Hemostat / Forceps

Digital multimeter with audible continuity tester

u/peregrin5 · 7 pointsr/EngineeringStudents

You laugh but I was super excited to get my cheap Chinese multimeter in the mail today. I will deffo use it for completing my lab work tonight.

u/credomane · 7 pointsr/techsupportgore

Well I was referring to one of these. Besides if you could plug OP's "finder" into the socket for a stove/drier you have other issues. Those should be using a 3 or 4-prong 240V outlet (in the USA anyhow).

u/pyro_sporks · 6 pointsr/LifeProTips

Replace them. Lights are cheap. Much cheaper than going through the trouble of going through and testing each bulb.

You can also get one of these fancy contraptions - http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000R8KBOK

u/jdogherman · 6 pointsr/volt

the EVSE is detecting that the outlet is not wired as it expects. Do you have an outlet tester? Maybe something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU

u/0110010001100010 · 6 pointsr/HomeImprovement
u/congelar · 6 pointsr/techsupportgore

> Even if you have polarized plugs, like in the US, you can't even be sure that the electricians wired the outlet the right way around.

Don't trust, test.

u/logmeinbro · 6 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Grab one of these and check outlets around your house.

u/nonya-in · 6 pointsr/AskElectronics

Since this is apparently affecting more than one device you should first check the outlet. Get one of these and test that the outlet is properly wired. It sounds like there may be voltage present on your ground (that would be bad). Or if you aren't comforatble testing yourself hire an electrician. This is potentially dangerous.

u/abhikavi · 6 pointsr/RealEstate

You can buy a little device very cheaply to tell you if three-prong outlets are grounded. If they're probably not even grounded the lazy way (to the outlet box) and simply have a wire missing, you could repair this yourself for <$10.

Obviously two-prong outlets will not be grounded. That's a convenience issue, but not a safety issue. The lack of GFI outlets in the kitchen (or bath, or anywhere near water) could be a safety issue, and that would be the one thing I think it'd be reasonable to ask the landlord to do. GFI outlets are ~$10 apiece and those can safely be grounded to their box as well.

u/rdepalma · 6 pointsr/Comcast

I think you might need an electrician. To me, it sounds like something is shorting the coax with the electrical outlet. You indicated when he tugged on the coax, a breaker tripped.
Right there, that set off flags as I was reading it. The problem may not be in the outlet right next to where he was working, but somewhere up the line from there.

I would start with a voltage tester like this
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-3-Wire-Receptacle-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA/ref=lp_14244481_1_12?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1487627980&sr=1-12
and go from there.

If the problem is electrical, comcast wont touch it (even if they caused it, but good luck proving that).

u/danielcc07 · 6 pointsr/AskEngineers

You can chase where they go with one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-NCVT-2-Non-Contact-Voltage/dp/B004FXJOQO

Make sure the switch is on.

u/mazobob66 · 6 pointsr/unRAID

Buy a computer power supply tester. I have a Thermaltake brand.

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO

You don't need to spend that much, there are cheaper ones out there. I got it on sale, years ago. It eliminates the "shotgun method" of troubleshooting where you are testing with known good parts.

u/neonicacid · 6 pointsr/computertechs

http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO/

That's what I use, personally. It makes it fairly easy to test a supply since it will turn red and start beeping furiously if you are not getting enough juice. I don't test a ton of power supplies, so I can't speak to bulk usage/lifespan, but it has been great for my needs.

u/shout4 · 6 pointsr/gpumining

Those are the smart sensors, They control the 3 exhaust fans per temp readings. They also act as motion sensors and turn the lights on in the room when I walk in. The white boxes on the right wall are 240v smart switches that control power on/off from my phone manually or triggered by scene i.e. temp to high, or ping failure reboot rig. Energy monitor installed inside breaker box also smart home (Z-Wave). All is controlled by a Vera smart home controller. Links below.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0151Z8ZQY?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MBIRF5W?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XD8WZX6?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BX9P89Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519912082&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=vera+plus+controller&dpPl=1&dpID=31jWnlwJITL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007ZU69DU?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd

u/farmer_hobbsy · 6 pointsr/Ultralight

I will also say the Anker 21W is very good at what it does, but on the heavier side of trying to keep weight down. Another option i've been testing is this:

Renogy E.Flex 5W Portable Solar Panel with USB Port https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K8NTKHM/

I was able to get output up to 700mAh in direct sunlight. substantially lighter than Anker, and a good option to clip/hang from pack over the course of a day.

I will also recommend this multimeter:

Eversame USB Digital Power Meter Tester Multimeter
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D9Y6ZFW/

i had to modify the Renogy solar panel with a small cut out in order to fit the multimeter in the USB port. this will give you a good measurement of how much juice you've gotten from the sun over the course of a day. I am going to bed and will post pics of my setup later.

u/TheSwami · 6 pointsr/amateurradio

To mention some other homebrewing supplies and tools that haven't come up here:

  • Copper Clad PCB Board for Manhattan or Dead Bug or Island Pad circuit construction.
  • Perf Board for circuits involving many IC's or other 0.1"-spaced leads.
  • A Solder Sucker, for clearing solder from perf-board
  • Solder Wick, for removing solder from things that aren't plated holes.
  • A cheapie Rotary Tool, for making isolation pads, cutting boards, rounding off edges.
  • A decent multimeter - decent used to mean something in that $30-$50 range, but now even down in the sub-$20 range you're looking at plus/minus 0.5% accuracy for voltage measurements, which is good enough for most homebrew purposes. Whatever you do, get one with a continuity alarm! A $6 meter without one is a $6 waste of your money.
  • A decent Soldering Iron. I spent years thinking I was bad at soldering, turns out I was bad at buying soldering irons. A 15W radioshack fixed iron with a fat tip will do you no good. The 50W adjustable pencil linked here it solid, though many people (myself included) prefer a soldering station
  • A pair of fine need nose pliers and a flush cutter. Xuron is the name brand, but excelite or hakko or most others are fine.

u/umlaut · 6 pointsr/HondaElement

It wasn't the fuse, it was a short somewhere else. Removing the fuse just made it so that no electricity went through that circuit, therefore the battery wouldn't get drained. It is like turning a breaker off in your house - a whole bunch of systems will suddenly not be getting any electricity.

​

The idea is to figure out "Is power being drained out of the battery when nothing is happening?" I tested it with a very typical multimeter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ISAMUA6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I detached one side of the car battery terminals. My friend held the multimeter leads, one multimeter lead on the battery and the other on the loose wire that would normally attach to the battery terminal. When the element was off, about 0.2 amps registered as being used on the multimeter, meaning that it was using power when nothing should be happening.

There are two sets of fuses, one under the steering wheel by the pedals and one under the hood. There is a fuse puller inside one of the fuse boxes. Look in your car manual and it will show you a diagram of your fuses. While he watched the multimeter, I would detach fuses one-by-one. I would pull a fuse, yell "OUT" and he would yell "NO" if the amperage usage did not change after the fuse was pulled. Eventually I pulled as fuse called "Back Up" in the fuse diagram and that 0.2 amps went down to 0. That was our problem circuit. Luckily for me that circuit has things that are not necessary on it, so I just left the fuse out.

u/evanrly · 5 pointsr/audioengineering

Qbox, cable checker, XLR barrels [F-F,M-M,Phase reverse, -20&-50db pads, ground lift, ISO barrel], AC Wiring Tester, XLR Y's, 1/4 male to XLR-F and M, 1/8" to rca/xlr/1/4, NL4&NL8 barrels. Batteries, and more batteries.

Those seem to be my essentials, and get used the most. Probably forgetting something.

u/ssaltmine · 5 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Measure what? The input voltage and current that go inside the Pi? Or the output voltage and current that goes into the GPIO pins?

Normal computers don't constantly log these values because they don't need them. Basically they only measure the extremes. If the voltage is too low or too high they shut down.

But you can measure any value externally, using multimeters, oscilloscopes, and other devices. There are some USB power supplies that measure the voltage and current that flows through them, and in this way the user can know how much current the Pi is consuming.

https://www.amazon.com/PowerJive-Voltage-Multimeter-chargers-capacity/dp/B013FANC9W

http://raspi.tv/2016/raspberry-pi-zero-1-3-power-usage-with-camera

u/penny_eater · 5 pointsr/mildlyinteresting

They also make very inexpensive circuit testers with a GFCI button to simulate the kind of short it trips on, handy to have to make sure everything is in working order on a regular basis: https://www.amazon.com/Receptacle-Tester-Klein-Tools-RT210/dp/B01AKX8L0M

u/09RaiderSFCRet · 5 pointsr/motorcycle

Get this, I promise you’ll never be sorry. And to answer your question, bike batteries do act like car batteries in that if you totally kill it, it may need to be replaced. Here’s the tender. Battery Tender (022-0186G-DL-WH) 12V 5 Amp Battery Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EDFPN1O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_sBECRHYeaVDUm

Get a multimeter like this one. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=cm_sw_r_em_tai_c_VZPFDbGK9FQ5V

And here’s a good write up about testing your bikes electrical system. https://www.louis.eu/rund-ums-motorrad/schraubertipps/elektronik

u/sgtsnyder88 · 5 pointsr/Tools

I've had this one with me on projects for a few years now and it's worked pretty decent for the price. No complaints.

u/oscill8 · 5 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Not sure on /u/Steammonkey restock times, you can always pm him. There are other vendors who carry it (shouldn't be hard to find) as well.

[This is my multimeter] (http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA), I'm sure many are similarly laid out. (I had this before I started building; not sure if there's a "recommended" multimeter out there.) You can see the little "OHM" on the dial, set it there :) The battery voltage meter settings on the side are under "battery load test", you put the pos to the pos end of your batt, neg to neg :) There are some youtube videos specifically for multimeters + vaping that are helpful and will also show you where to position the leads for checking ohms, etc. On the vids, pay attention to how to check your meter's internal resistance, esp. with lower ohm builds. Be sure to buy a digital multimeter, not the analog kind w/ the bouncy arm for readouts.

I use Panasonic CGR18650s, AW 18490s, and MNKEs mainly for vaping so I don't know those (I had to search for mine, not printed on batts most of the time); it may be easier to search for the "c" rating of your battery so you can calculate its amp limits. (Again, sm's monkey u has a nice walkthru; it's not hard, just math.) Off the bat I'd say you likely don't want to use your "mystery" blue batt unless you can verify mfr/c rating... most batts packaged with kits are okay for vv/vw devices, not really super for mechs esp. when you're cloud chasing/low ohms. Is the ncr panny protected? (I don't know.) You don't want to use protected batts.

The 2c for safety fuse ... is a nice idea, but I think it has a 8 or 10 watt limit? (Don't quote me, I'm pulling numbers from you-know-where.) It'll be tripped pretty fast with low ohms... I don't think you can use them effectively with anything over 1.5 ohms or so. They make resettable ones (along w/ ones that are one time use, and that would stink), but again, they'll just stop your batt from firing when you want it to put out the watts you'll be pulling w/ lower ohms.

Honestly, I'd start high-ish and work your way down. Totally honest again, I'm kind of loving higher ohm (1.5-2.0) on my vv device (Provari), using one right now as I type. You can push much higher volts with the amplification of vv than you can reach with mechs, won't come near amp limits (you'll hit your device's amp limit before your battery's), and will still get a super vape. I have [a post on some higher (than sub) ohm builds + vv here] (http://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/1g9c87/fun_with_contact_coils_higher_ohm_rbas_and/) to give you an idea of what I mean. Not saying don't go mech, I'm running 0.8 right now on my GV Sentinel and it's super, but ... I'm a ninny, "true" cloud chasing/sub 0.5 ohms freak me the f out ;) and some people have written off vv devices + RBAs when they really shouldn't. It may be harder to build/test on a PWM (pbusardo has a vid if you don't know about PWM) vv device, but firing is lovely once you get it on point :)

Happy reading, watching, building :)

u/columbines · 5 pointsr/diypedals

Not worth $60 IMO. I have one of these guys and highly recommend it -
https://www.amazon.com/Mastech-MS8268-MS8261-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000JQ4O2U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474646922&sr=8-1&keywords=mastech+8268

Looking through the reviews it seems like they send out the occasional lemon unit, but I've had mine for 3 years now on the same battery and it's awesome, especially for a $25 multimeter. I've tested it alongside a friend's $400 Fluke meter and it's very accurate. It also includes an attachment for reading transistor gains, which is especially helpful if you get into using germanium transistors. It's rated for 1000VDC so I use it when working on tube amps as well.

If you get into building pedals these are also worth picking up -
https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Multifunction-Transistor-Resistance-Inductance/dp/B00NKY3M1W/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1474647579&sr=8-13

It will measure inductance & and it's invaluable for getting quick gains and pinouts for transistors. It's not a substitute for a meter but it makes stuff like identifying a mystery transistor or matching FETs a breeze.

u/Sucramdi · 5 pointsr/christmas

We have this thing called a light keeper (link), it can usually fix bulbs that won't light and can detect current in the cables so you can find where the problems are. Even still though, the tree is lit to about 90% now after half an hour of fiddling. Dark spots were filled in with regular light strands. Probably wouldn't buy another prelit, looks amazing when it works though.

u/elektrikeye · 5 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

The location of the power supply doesn't have anything to do with it, the power supply still takes in 120V AC Power and converts it to 12V DC power. When you have a ground fault that circuit will feed back through the line in an attempt to get to earth. I would highly recommend checking your outlet/surge protector with something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU/

If your outlet is still good, I would return the printer if you can.

u/Kv603 · 5 pointsr/DIY

It was pretty common in homes of a certain era to install a GFCI outlet and then daisy-chain a bunch of outlets, even in an entirely different room, off that one GFCI outlet.

It might not be obvious how the circuit is run, you can pick up a cheap test tool at the hardware store with a GFCI-test button on it, that will trigger the GFCI in the chain, if one exists.

u/jonschwartz · 5 pointsr/smallbusiness

They sell GFCI testers which will reliably trip the breaker without causing damage (assuming the wiring is done somewhat properly). It wouldn't break anything, but would disable the outlet and would bug the neighbor. Here's the one I have https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RUL2UU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/KGB420 · 5 pointsr/HomeImprovement

>a modern house with current wiring would also experience overheating

This issue was not present at our previous residence.

>How do you know they are not grounded?

I plugged one of these into the outlets, and it reports open ground.

u/CommonModeReject · 5 pointsr/livesound

> I've come to realize that the whole venue isnt properly grounded aftering dealing with this hiss/hum from all the mains.

You have actually tested the grounding right? You're not just making an assumption? These things cost like $10. http://amzn.com/B000RUL2UU

u/neuromonkey · 5 pointsr/DIY

> would the inspector only look at my work, or would they look at the whole electrical system?

Just the item s/he's inspecting. They'll look over the box and your mains connection. If there's anything truly bad (frayed wires, splices in junction boxes to extend circuit runs, knob & tube still in use,) they may look that over.

Fixing things yourself is not a stupid idea at all! Safety is important, but so is learning and doing.

Stop fretting! My gf & I do all our own electrical work, and have for decades. If an inspector asks, play dumb. They'll tell you what you need to do. This stuff ain't rocket science, and at very worst, you might have to pay a small fine on top of a permit fee.

If you have the time, do a bit of reading and fix it yourself. You must follow some rules: use proper gauge or heavier wire for your load, don't mix wire sizes in a circuit, understand that a 220v circuit is two "ganged" 110v circuits from different phases in your box. (Sounds like you've got that right.)

You should have pulled 8 AWG wire for a stove & oven. Did you?

Know which wire is what. A cheap receptical tester will tell you that, though it sounds like you've at least got a meter.

  • HOT from one phase -- RED

  • Hot from opposite phase -- BLACK

  • Neutral -- WHITE

  • Ground -- BARE COPPER or GREEN


    Don't worry about your work. Sounds solid. Leave it be.

    Replace the terminal block in the stove if it looks bad enough. That's easier to do than the work you've already done!

    Don't sweat it! You can do it!

    Turn off circuits or the MAIN!

    If worried: Wear work gloves or use insulated tools.

    DIY!

    If you're in Bangor, Maine I'll come by and help out! Easy peasy!
u/Koooooj · 5 pointsr/NoStupidQuestions

It's possible, but if that's the case then your house is wired seriously, seriously wrong. I doubt that you'd notice it with a phone charger.

When I moved into a house a couple decades ago it was wired very very poorly. Ground was hooked up on hot wires, polarity was reversed, ground was left dangling, you name it. The previous owner fancied himself a handyman and he really, really wasn't.

If you have reason to suspect that you have wiring problems then it's easy to check. Most big hardware stores sell a device like this which will automatically detect if your outlets are wired correctly when plugged in. They're only a few bucks which is likely cheaper than whatever device a faulty outlet might destroy.

If your phone seems to be taking odd amounts of time to charge first make sure that you're using the same charger in each (some chargers put out more power than others) and if you are then try a more scientific test (same software load, same amount of screen on-time, same start and end battery percentage). It's quite likely that it's just in your head, but the only way to be sure is to do some science!

u/Aeroflux · 5 pointsr/oculus

It's overkill until the lack of having one bricks your PC power supply (or worse). I've had APC units for over thirteen years now. I use their surge bars for equipment that won't be bothered by a sudden drop, and a couple UPS units for everything else, including a front projector. You want to talk about dire consequences with a blackout, the projector bulb can pop without the cool-down phase. That's ~$350 a bulb.

Electronics aren't just sensitive to surge, line noise and under-voltage can also damage them. PC power supplies can regulate voltage to an extent, but I'd rather have something else step in when electricity gets funky. I remember one voltage drop caused half of my power adapters in the house to die. That was a good day for the scalpers at radio-shack.

APC has given me nothing but good experiences. One of the UPS units was toasted by a powerful surge--I used to live in tornado alley, we had storms that exceeded 600 lightning strikes an hour. It took them about a week (total turnaround) to replace it under warranty. They even offered to replace my really old UPS unit with a brand new one for cheap. Now I have a fast-reacting 900 joules capacity single-plug surge protector on the main UPS as a backup to the backup. Hey, it was ten bucks, why not?

Another thing I do is test the outlets with one of these every time I move to a new location. I've encountered enough bad wiring to pick up a healthy paranoia. :)

u/MrDoomBringer · 4 pointsr/electricians

$16 at Amazon. I'm sure the Harbor Freight one is cheaper and will fall apart in 3 years.

u/niandra3 · 4 pointsr/diypedals

I'm still pretty new to this myself, but like you I have some electronics experience in the past. I just got this Weller 40w iron station with a desolder braid/sucker and a solder tip cleaner. Oh and a more precise tip for the solder iron

I'm really happy with it all so far, and couln't imagine needing more for a while. A heat gun would be nice for de-soldering and reflowing premade boards (like modding Boss pedals), but that can also be done with a regular solder iron as far as I know. You can get the above for about $60 total, so it's a nice way to get your feet wet without a huge investment. Then you gotta add on components/enclosures/pots/switches etc. Maybe get a helping hands and/or circuit holder if you need

Oh and get a good multimeter. I went a step up from the $20 ones and got this one which I'm also really happy with.

u/edisonlbm · 4 pointsr/homeowners

If you go that far, I'd reccomend getting something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1519316688&sr=8-3

It will show problems that you might miss if you are just plugging something in, and it's a good idea to test GFCI too.

u/sick937 · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

No idea about the cost, but if you have a level of confidence and have some idea what you're doing, you could pop the cover off that electric panel and see what type of wires run into the circuit breakers and what they feed. If modern wires run into breaker #1, and you turn that off and the wall fixtures turn off.. well there you go.

K&T should be easier to spot inside the box, no ground, probably dusty, and wrapped in cloth. Mapping the breakers, figuring out what controls what room/wall/fixture is a good idea. Flip them off one at a time and have someone upstairs plugging something in an checking them..

Also, I highly recommend one of these guys to quikcly test and tell you if the wiring is correct:

http://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Outlet-Tester/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=pd_cp_hi_0

u/LobsterAuntie · 4 pointsr/Columbus

GFCI outlets on a GFCI circuit breaker? I think that's overkill unless there was some funny wiring going on.

Here is a tester that will show if the outlet is wired correctly and if it's GFCI protected. Might be worth the $5 for piece of mind:

Sperry Instruments GFI6302 GFCI Outlet / Receptacle Tester, Standard 120V AC Outlets, 7 Visual Indication / Wiring Legend, Home & Professional Use, Yellow & Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cUWeAbQG51J7V

ETA: There could also be another GFCI outlet on the circuit that you don't know about that is providing GFCI protection. The GFCI outlet that was protecting the other outlets in our bathroom was under the sink, tucked under a shelf that I did not notice for two years until the outlets stopped working and I needed to find out why.

u/cheezbergher · 4 pointsr/assholedesign

You get a simple outlet tester like this:

Sperry Instruments GFI6302 GFCI Outlet / Receptacle Tester, Standard 120V AC Outlets, 7 Visual Indication / Wiring Legend, Home & Professional Use, Yellow & Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_yBILDbSMB9JYX

u/1new_username · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I use one of these

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000RUL2UU/

You plug it in the outlet and push the button on top. If the outlet is on a gfci, it should trip it and the power at that outlet (and any others on the gfci) will go out.

u/SenpaiPleaseNoticeMe · 4 pointsr/techsupportgore
u/obsoletest · 4 pointsr/AskNYC

The bigger issue is what's in the wall behind the outlets. Two-prong outlets are connected to hot and neutral wires only. Three-prong outlets are connected to hot, neutral, and ground wires (contained in a single cable). Changing the outlet won't help, other than giving something three-prong plugs will fit into. The wiring in the walls would need to be replaced, which could be an expensive proposition. I'd also check those kitchen outlets to see if they're actually grounded. It would be unusual for part of an apartment to get rewired and not the whole thing. This type of device will answer that question quickly: http://www.amazon.com/GE-3-Wire-Receptacle-Tester-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA/ref=sr_1_3

u/badger-dude · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Get one of these and test ALL the outlets. The three pong receptacles may not be properly grounded.

https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-3-Wire-Receptacle-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA

With my 1950's house I got lucky. The house was wired with a ground wire but since this was before the days of 3 prong receptacles they tied the ground wire to each receptacle box (all metal boxes). Everything was grounded properly at the panel so all I had to do was just add a short piece of copper from a spare screw in each box to the ground screw of the new three prong receptacles I bought.

The sidebar link that was provided will give you other options aside from a full rewire job.

u/molo1134 · 4 pointsr/buildapc

Ham radio operator here. Make sure you have proper grounding. That is, make sure you have a shielded PC case (NO BIG PLEXIGLAS WINDOWS), and make sure your power cord is properly grounded (3-prong plug into a 3-prong outlet). Make sure your outlet is appropriately grounded (get one of these). Make sure your home/building uses an appropriate ground rod at your mains feedpoint (where the power lines enter your building).

Then, ferrites on all cords leading to your audio amplifier (amplified speakers). That includes, the audio input, the power line and any speaker outputs.

u/BillDaCatt · 4 pointsr/techsupportgore

I use one of these: Circuit Breaker Finder

The transmitter plugs into the outlet and transmits a radio signal through the wire. At the panel, the receiver is passed closely over each breaker. The receiver beeps when the correct breaker is located.

The other method is to plug in a lamp that you can see from the panel or a radio that you can hear, then turn off each breaker one at a time until the correct breaker is located.

u/NinjaCoder · 4 pointsr/electricians

From one DIYer to another, if you don't already have one of these, you should get one.

u/mahkra26 · 4 pointsr/homelab
  1. kill-a-watt or other plug-in style device
  2. PDU or UPS with network-management card / metering, accessed via SNMP
  3. whole-house meter (ie clamps on your panel mains), such as a z-wave device: https://smile.amazon.com/Aeotec-Energy-Z-Wave-electricity-monitor/dp/B00XD8WZX6
  4. radio signals from your electrical meter: https://blog.kroy.io/monitoring-home-power-consumption-for-less-than-25/
u/cleansweep9 · 4 pointsr/homeautomation

Yep. Here's the Gen 2, for OP's reference. By all accounts it has more features and is easier to wire in place, but it's usually 3-5 times the price of the older one.

u/kperkins1982 · 4 pointsr/SmartThings

I have an aeotec home energy monitor attached to the phases in my panel box and reports to an app

Aeotec by Aeon Labs ZW095 ZW095-A Home Energy Meter Gen5, Small, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XD8WZX6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2eI4CbX4944QA
You could just as easily attach it to the wires going to the circuit the washing machine is on to monitor it

u/kc2syk · 3 pointsr/rfelectronics

Hi. There's a couple things you can do to reduce RFI. Like you said, you can use a shielded cable. It would help if you can connect both ends to ground -- but make sure your electrical mains entrance ground is correct and up to code. You should have a ground rod right below the entrance, and it should be connected to your panel. All lines should be grounded lines, and you should have 3-prong outlets for all circuits. Get an outlet tester to be sure all sockets are wired correctly.

Another thing you can do is add ferrites on all wires going into and out of the HVAC units (power, data, everything). These act as RF filters.

Now bluetooth and microwave ovens use the same frequency band (2.4 GHz). Its not unusual for some low level RF energy to leak out of microwave ovens, and overpower a low-power data connection like bluetooth. But if its more than a low-power leak it may indicate a faulty oven, or a bad ground.

Its possible you have a nearby intermittent transmitter that is affecting things. It could be an airport thing, or maybe a two-way radio like for police or fire, or maybe a neighbor with a CB radio or ham radio. If this is a licensed user and they have a correctly engineered installation, its up to your devices to accept interference. Proper grounding and filtering will help though.

I hope this gives you someplace to start. Good luck.

u/notaneggspert · 3 pointsr/DiWHY

These are $4 and idiot proof. I honestly wouldn't know how to check ground/neutral with a multi-meter.

Edit: Splurge on the $7 tester with a GFCI test, even if you're not replacing your bathroom receptacle you can double check it works.

u/phracture · 3 pointsr/buildapc

If you are curious about outlets and want to safely check them to see if they are set up properly, buy one of these or an equivalent: https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-3-Wire-Receptacle-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA

Should be available at most hardware stores also. Not sure if they have these for other non american outlet types

u/jmdbcool · 3 pointsr/pics

That's the cheapo version; spend the extra couple bucks and get the GE model which will last forever.

u/scramblor · 3 pointsr/ToobAmps

Are you properly grounding the amp and is your house properly grounded?

You can get something like this on amazon for pretty cheap to test your outlets.

u/rabdas · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Instead of radio or lamp, buy a circuit finder. It’s about $30 but you’ll never have to waste time turning every circuit on and off for every outlet. A circuit finder comes in two pieces - a wand and an outlet plug. Insert the outlet plug in the socket you want to turn off. Take the wand and scan the circuit panel to calibrate it. Scan again and the wand will beep when you are directly over the circuit. It’s makes life super easy. It’s sort of a one time use if you map your entire house in one sitting, but if you ever need to do electrical work anywhere, you don’t have to fumble with every circuit breaker

Klein Tools ET300 Digital Circuit Breaker Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003LHJSY8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OnXEAbZ6KFJ7X

It’s

u/Methelsandriel · 3 pointsr/electricians

Why not just get something like this? Walking back and forth or having someone help you seems like it would be a better idea than drop lights all over the place.

u/WyTheGuy · 3 pointsr/electricians

I don't know what kind of work you do, I do everything, and once in awhile these save the day. They aren't tools I use often but they make life easier sometimes

Screw Extractor set

Knipex Plier Wrench

Klein tube cutter

Deep sockets in small case with an Impact Adaptor

Klein cct finder

u/drtonmeister · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

In the USA the 1959 NEC introduced a rule that hasn't changed much to today; the “6 and 12 rule”:

210-22

>“receptacle outlets shall be installed so that no point along the floor line in any usable wall space is more than six feet, measured horizontally , from an outlet in that space.”

Communities/States sometimes make the most current NEC the local code right away, but it is not unusual for places to lag one or more code cycles behind. So it is quite possible that a mid 1960s house would have much larger distance along a wall between outlets, because they only needed to conform to the "20 foot rule" introduced in 1940 or the 1956 "12 foot rule".

Or, if there are outlets near enough to the corner on both adjacent walls, it could have been be compliant without an outlet on the 10' long wall.

Also, in some rural areas there may not have been code enforcement at the time that the home was built or added-on to, so the home was built to whatever standard the builder was accustomed to follow.

When outlets are put in at the time of build, they tend to be at consistent height. So if you have suspicion that there might be an outlet-box with the outlet removed hiding under the wallpaper, you can rub fingers along the wall at outlet height in order to feel any hollow or concealed cover behind the paper. You can also use a sensitive non-contact tester if you have one, to attempt to detect active wires behind the paper. Or use a stud-finder that has current detection. Or use a tone&probe "breaker finder".

u/drzorcon · 3 pointsr/howto

This is pretty creative solution to your problem. If you dont have an iPad around, you might be interested in investing in one of these: http://amzn.com/B003LHJSY8

u/GenoOfMemphis · 3 pointsr/electricians

Klein Tools 92906 ProPack 6 Apprentice Tool Set for Trade Professionals (6-Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EKONLY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Qm5EAbQVA3JFH

That’s a good deal. It has lineman pliers, diagonal cutters, needle nose, wire strippers, and flat/ Phillips screwdrivers.

Screwdriver and Nut Driver 11-in-1 Multi Tool, Cushion Grip Handle, Industrial Strength Bits Klein Tools 32500 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yp5EAbSKE4D2A

This is a good all purpose screwdriver to carry around

Klein Tools NCVT-2 Dual Range Non-Contact Voltage Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FXJOQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qq5EAbTTZ8GYW

This is a non contact voltage tester and it might just save you some pain/your life

Channellock 440 12-Inch Tongue and Groove Plier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SBCU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xr5EAbWNKDP5C

You should probably get 2 pairs of these. It’ll help you twist on couplings and stuff

Stanley 33-725 25-Feet FatMax Tape Measure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002PV66/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Xs5EAbGVWXZDV

A lot of people like these tape measures for their larger claws

Klein Tools 98002BT Bottle Opener https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00093GENU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4u5EAb52FZ742

This will help for when you go home


u/boybandsarelame · 3 pointsr/Firefighting

No idea about the helmet. As far as tools go

non contact voltage tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FXJOQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_XxzgAb8RCT4Y9

Works great for double checking the utilities are off or isolating a particular circuit if you don't want to leave someone's house entirely without power

4 in 1 screwdriver
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009V431/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_vzzgAbASETAEA

For screwing and unscrewing things

Reasonable sized channel locks
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SBCS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_ZAzgAbD9C5JND

For a while I had vice grips instead of these but found with gloves on they were a little too clunky to manipulate. Works great for grabbing and loosening like gas connections to dryers

And this rescue tool dealio
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0057UMN3A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_ZCzgAbQY3EK8Z

Works as your battery cutter, prying tool, gas shutoff and a spanner. I cut one of those little locks that secures piv valves and commercial sprinkler systems with this thing before my partner could make it back with bolt cutters so that alone was worth half the price

u/Fake_account27 · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

The sub panel being hooked to a 50A breaker on the main panel is normal. Someone installed a 50A sub panel. This is great for you as you can shut off the entire sub panel by fliping the 50A breaker in the main panel. That way you do not have to worry about anything being live when you install a new circuit. Buy an electrical tester pen first just to make sure the sub panel is off.

You are correct about how to install the new 15A breaker, and it will need 14 gauge wire. You need to make sure its the same type of breaker that is currently in your sub panel as there is more then one kind.

As to the white wire to the copper bus unless someone else posts a good reason for that its wrong. I would pay someone to inspect your sub panel just to be sure there are not other wiring issues.

u/anonyME42 · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

> TLDR: Get a multimeter and test the wires yourself.

Or at a minimum get something like this Non-Contact Voltage Tester. I find it much easier when working in tight spaces.

u/GreanEcsitSine · 3 pointsr/videos

Assuming you're doing basic AC electrical work, then pick up a non-contact voltage detector. It helps take the guess work out of figuring out if a box or wire is live.

u/[deleted] · 3 pointsr/malefashionadvice

some electrical stuff is really complicated, but as long as a homeowner's first steps are

  1. turn off the circuit breaker

  2. use a voltage tester to be 100% sure the electricity is off

    then it's perfectly safe after that
u/luckyhunterdude · 3 pointsr/DIY

your local hardware store will have a non-contact voltage tester like this one you could jerry-rig a tester, or a couple other less than safe ways to do it, but just spend the $10 on a cheap non-contact tester.

u/Route66_LANparty · 3 pointsr/buildapc

There's nothing inherently wrong with using extensions or custom cables (if you bought/were shipped the right ones). BUT YOU HAVE TO TEST THEM. There's too much chance of human failure with custom cables/extensions.

https://www.amazon.com/Optimal-Shop-Computer-Supply-Connectors/dp/B00Q8SUYHW/ or https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO/

At this point I'd test the powersupply both with and without the extensions. But you need to test that power supply!

When you build fancy, you have to "bench test" first. No fancy LEDs, just the base components on a non-conductive/anti-static surface. If you don't have such a surface, then just test the basics in the case.

u/77xak · 3 pointsr/buildapc

You can get a PSU tester to check if it's functional at all, however I would still be wary of using it even if it appears to test ok. The PSU is the one part that can literally destroy every other component in your PC, so your safest bet is to just buy a new one.

u/guyonphone · 3 pointsr/techsupport

The First thing you should do when having these types of issues, is reduce your hardware down to just the core parts needed to boot the system.

  1. Remove any unnecessary add-in cards, take out all memory, except one stick.

  2. All you should have in the system is, Power Supply, Motherboard, 1 stick of Ram, CPU+cooler, and Hard drive.

  3. If the Problem still occurs try a different stick of Ram.

  4. If the problem still persists, try re-seating your CPU.

  5. If the problem still persists, replace your power supply.

  6. If you replace the PSU, and you still have the issue, then its your motherboard.

    Pro-Tip* It really sounds like it's your PSU, but if you want to truly rule it out, you have to use process of elimination, unless you have a power supply tester, which has saved me many headaches.
u/nerga · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Coding can be done in python. Rasperry pi has by default a RPi.GPIO package that gives you very very easy interfacing with the GPIO pins on the board. You will need some resistors, and some leds, and a breadboard (board that lets you put wires into it so you don't need solder). Assuming you have a pi and that is working I would get these:

breadboard

jumpers

resistors and leds starter kit

DMM, not necessary but nice to have.

Here is a nice guide to the pinout on the pi and the numbering system

This is a nice guide to using rasperry pi GPIO python package

This is the generic python tutorial assuming you do not know python.

edit:

while we are at it here are some other fun things you can do with a pi:

Make it move with these ICs and DC motors. Not pi can not hook up dc motors directly, thus the chips. There are also rover kits with dc motors and wheels already.

There are sonic range sensors.

GPS receivers

temperature sensors

uv light sensors

There are a lot of projects you can do with relatively cheap sensors with the pi.

u/meest · 3 pointsr/SVRiders

Charge the battery. Then start the bike. Get a volt meter and measure the battery. Does it read 13.6/14? Then your stator is working. If its reading below 12.2/12ish then no its not.

Any cheap multi-meter like this will do.
http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Digital-Voltmeter-Ohmmeter-Multimeter/dp/B00B7CS3UY/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1426052117&sr=8-7&keywords=multi+meter

To make it easier to check You may as well buy a battery tender if you haven't already. Run the lead somewhere (I ran it under my passenger seat so I can plug in a USB adapter to charge my phone while I ride. But then you can meter off that in a pinch also. Not to mention it will slowly trickle charge you battery (It won't be fast by any means, but I've done it myself after this past winter, as my shed has no close by power and I didn't have time to bring my battery inside)
http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1426052180&sr=1-1&keywords=battery+tender


If its showing good when running you have a power draw somewhere. keep the meter connected while the bike is off. then pull one fuse at a time until it appears the load goes away(aka the voltage stays the same for a while without it draining down. Especially if its dead in 4 minutes you should be able to see it quickly). You may have a short in your lights. That's normally where I would expect it.

u/thephonegod · 3 pointsr/mobilerepair

Might just be a bad battery tbh, batteries are notoriously bad in this industry. Try with another? Also, go buy a usb power meter from amazon so you can actually watch the current flow into the device.

https://www.amazon.com/PowerJive-Voltage-Multimeter-chargers-capacity/dp/B013FANC9W

Also I would recommend buying a standalone iphone batter charger board. This will charge the battery independently of a phone and let you watch the input current along with the current voltage of the battery.

u/edman007 · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

First, name absolutely everything connected to the protected side of the GFCI, include everything, switches, lights, fans, smart switches, outlets, electronics, etc.

Second, get yourself a GFCI outlet tester. Test all outlets on that breaker, even ones that shouldn't be GFCI.

i think understading how GFCI works will help, and i think there are two possible things that can cause it. First power filters, many devices ground noise (especially electronics and things that make lots of noise like motors), normally this is fine but too much through ground trips GFCI. It can be random because it could be noise from multiple devices that add up to too much, it could be heavy noise from a different circuit getting grounded behind the GFCI. And second, screwed up wiring, specifically hot shorted to the unprotected hot of the GFCI or neutral shorted to ground or the unprotected neutral. Both create paths around the GFCI and will trip it. I would open up all boxes from the GFCI and beyond and check it, I feel like this could be as simple one of those bare ground wires getting really close to the neutral lug when the outlet is pressed into the box.

u/Jpotter145 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

That sounds like some kind of short from the outlet you are plugged into. A "mild continuous shock" is not mistakable and if you felt if you'll know you did. I'd at the minimum get one of these and check the outlet.

https://www.amazon.com/Receptacle-Tester-Klein-Tools-RT210/dp/B01AKX8L0M/ref=zg_bs_14244461_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ACPGZN7D2NFKET1Z33H2

u/Laephis · 3 pointsr/Gameboy

As others have mentioned, you can test the battery with a multimeter, but it's only a single point in time measurement and won't necessarily predict how long you have to failure. (Can give you a clue.)

https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage-Tester/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=voltage+tester&qid=1559320174&s=gateway&sprefix=volt&sr=8-5

As a general rule of thumb, I replace any original battery before I start a run through a GB game, just to be safe I don't lose the save half way through.

u/DFCFennarioGarcia · 3 pointsr/Bass

Make sure they're Alkalines, I forget what the old style is called but you don't want your bass to die in the middle of the gig because you saved $1 on your battery. I get the Duracell Pro Cell packs from Amazon, they come out to $1.50 each. They're just normal Duracells but they're good quality and I like the labeling, it's easier to write the installation date on the side of the battery with a sharpie.

It's worth getting a basic multimeter or at least a tester, alkaline batteries don't die all at once, the voltage gradually sags, they read about 9.5V right out of the package and over time they'll droop to 8V, 7V, etc. I've had a lot of basses that are much punchier with full voltage and gradually lose punch and just sound kind of thin and weak until I put in a new battery again. I've had other basses that don't seem to care as much.

u/CW3_OR_BUST · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

It's time to buy a multimeter.


Learn how to use it!

u/blhylton · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

I don't know anything about dealers in Canada, sorry, but I do have a few tips as to what you need to realize before getting into mechanical mods.

Learn Ohm's Law.

V = IR

Voltage = Amperes * Resistance

Though, with a a mech mod, you're more likely to need to know:

Amperes = Voltage/Resistance

The reason for this is with a mechanical mod, you have no safety switch to stop you from overexerting your battery, which can severely damage it and cause catastrophic failure. Using Ohm's Law for instance, if you make a coil that's set up for 0.6Ω and you're battery is currently charged to 4.2V, then you're battery needs to be able to withstand a current of 4.2/0.6 = 7 Amperes. If you start going to lower resistance, you need more amps, and it increases quickly (4.2/0.4 = 10.5).

Learn your batteries

Do your research on batteries before you purchase them. Stick to IMR batteries (as opposed to ICR) because they're generally regarded as a safer chemistry. This way, in the event that you do have a catastrophic failure, you won't do as much damage. Typically with an IMR, the battery will just pop and release some toxic gases. Not pleasant, but better than a violent explosion.

Relatedly, always test the voltage your battery is charged to after taking it off the charger. If it's charging over the recommended range for that battery, don't use that charger and dispose of the battery (most batteries will have a recommended max of 4.2V).

Learn your mod

Does your mod have vent holes in the event of a battery failure? If not, take it back. Even with safe chemistry batteries, if there's nowhere for them to vent those gases, your mod essentially becomes a pipe bomb.

What kind of switch does your mod have? Does it have a locking ring? These are things you need to be aware of.

Learn to spot a catastrophic failure

It happens with the best of batteries. They can and do fail. If your mod starts getting warm, consider that it is a possibility that your battery is failing. If it gets hot, be ready to toss your mod and move away from it.

Learn to use a multimeter
How do you expect to test the resistance of your coils? The voltage of your battery charge?

A Multimeter

This one appears to be similar to the one I use, but I've had mine for years (work with electronics a lot) so I can't find the exact one. Any multimeter should be fine so long as it can measure low resistance and DC voltage.


Not trying to scare you away, but realize that there is a bit of knowledge you have to have before getting into mechanical mods and the like in order to be safe.

u/rewardiflost · 3 pointsr/NoStupidQuestions

A voltage tester or digital multimeter

u/oosickness · 3 pointsr/EDC
u/darkharlequin · 3 pointsr/shittyrobots
u/SpaceIguana · 3 pointsr/mechanics

You should be fine with a Harbor Freight tool box. To be honest you can also buy tools and other things from there as well with out much worry. Just don't buy anything from them that will get heavy use under stress. Small tools like screw drivers, allen/hex keys, and grip tools like pliers aren't too bad from them. Just remember that they do deal in cheap tools so don't be surprised when some of them break. The below tools are suggestions and the links are examples for reference only.

u/DamnSevern · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

I run a NIST-traceable calibrated Fluke 289 for work and I have one of these cheap Innova DMMs for home/car/vape projects and have been shocked with it's accuracy vs the Fluke. It's typically spot on, vs the much much more expensive Fluke...and you can pick one up for $20 usually.

http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452972631&sr=8-1&keywords=innova+3320

u/mcfarlie6996 · 3 pointsr/flashlight

Yeah, the i2 is designed to stop charging when it reaches 4.2V regardless if the battery is protect or unprotected. So either your charger is really messed up because 4.8V is dangerously high or there's some sort of mix-up with the reading.

>I just assumed given the age of the laptop battery that they'd have low charge and just threw them on the Nitecore i2 charger without testing voltage ahead of time.

You should never do this without knowing the voltage of the batteries beforehand. Here are some directions for the next time you want to do a laptop pull. Buy a multimeter, they're like $25 online. This is the one that I use for testing voltages.

u/minecraft-kunigit · 3 pointsr/amateurradio

I generally go with Dave Jones' opinion on these matters. Lucky for you, there's an EEVblog $50 multimeter shootout video. Don't think you'll find a more qualified opinion or thorough comparison anywhere.

Spoiler: The Extech EX330 is the winner.

u/PhirePhly · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

I'd recommend that you put in the extra money and get a nice second tier DMM. You can get away with a cheapy $25 one, but when it's your eyes and ears, I've found spending a little extra is worth it.

I love this multimeter, and Dave from the EEV Blog liked it as well. He did a whole teardown on a bunch of $50-$100 meters.

u/The_GM_Always_Lies · 3 pointsr/ECE

I purchased a Mastech Multimeter about 6 years ago for about 25 dollars, and it's working just fine for me. Yes, it doesn't have the name as a Fluke, but it works just fine for everyday purposes. Unless you really need the accuracy, a Mastech meter will work fine, especially as a student. This is the model I purchased. 25 dollars, and has everything you will need.

u/diet_solarmanite · 3 pointsr/Tools

You can't go wrong with a fluke, it will give you years of service.

I got a cheapie mastech on amazon ($25) and I have been abusing the crap out of it for some time now with no ill effects.

At 5 times the price ... a fluke would still probably be worth it.

u/ArizonaLad · 3 pointsr/DIY

Hopefully somebody can chime in on this one. Do LEDs have a shunt built into each bulb?

I know the incandescents do, and there is a tool that is almost miraculous. I have one of these guys, and it works. Never tried it on an LED, however:

https://www.amazon.com/Keeper-01201-Complete-Fixing-Miniature/dp/B000R8KBOK

u/NotAddicted · 3 pointsr/teslamotors

It's not a terribly complicated concept. You're basically hacking together a 240v circuit. Here's a site that explains how to build your own clone.

Edit: You probably don't want to try to use something like this on a circuit that's already sketchy. For example, it isn't unheard-of for a previous homeowner to have ignorantly swapped hot and neutral on a circuit when they replaced a socket. A Quick220-like device will end up directly shorting such a circuit, and that's not good. In fact it's "burst into flames" bad if the breaker is also faulty. Get yourself a tester and know how to read the lights.

u/tubezninja · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Well, it depends.

A cheater plug should have a tab at the bottom. That tab is supposed to be attached to the screw that you'd find in the center of the outlet, between the top and bottom receptacles.

On some of these older outlets, the receptacle box itself is grounded, so, screwing the cheater tab in properly will act as a ground for your cheater plug. The question is, are your outlet boxes grounded? They might or might not be. Only way to be sure would be to use an outlet tester after it's installed.

This of course also means you're going to need to cut off power at the breaker box while your'e screwing around with the outlets, to avoid electrocuting yourself. And if you're not comfortable with messing around with outlets, don't risk it.

u/tyescott · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

Buy one of these and plug it in. It'll let you know if the receptacle is wired wrong. They can be had at nearly any home improvement store as well

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_WPpxwb3N4BPEH

u/hobbykitjr · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Buy one of these

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000RUL2UU/ref=pd_aw_fbt_328_img_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=0CV79NQW6DYC13JCVQF3

Test all of them.

it will not tell you when you need an outlet replaced. It will only show you if the outlet is wired correctly or incorrectly. Make sure that when you push your GFCI back into the box that no bare copper is touching bare copper on the neutral/white conductor in the box. Also make sure that the conductors are tight in the terminal screws of your GFCI. You probably need to replace your GFCI with a new one if none of the previous suggestions work. Make sure that you turn the power off to the receptacle prior to removing it from the outlet box & working on the device

u/Aspirant_Fool · 3 pointsr/techsupport

Something is improperly grounded in/on your case, or there's voltage on the ground in your outlet. Make sure you don't have any loose screws behind your mobo or something, and that all your connections are secure. Go to Walmart or something and pick up one of these to make sure your outlet isn't screwed up.

u/RedDeath1337 · 3 pointsr/ultrawidemasterrace

Buy one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Receptacle-Outlet-Ground-Tester/dp/B0012DHVQ0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457031556&sr=8-1&keywords=ground+plug+checker

And check. They should be for sale at any local hardware store for under $10. That is a easy 5 second test to see if you are grounded or not.

u/redm4ge · 3 pointsr/Guitar

You can pick one of these up at Walmart, Home Depot, Lowes, Amazon, etc., for only a couple of bucks usually: http://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Receptacle-Outlet-Ground-Tester/dp/B0012DHVQ0

They're worth it.

u/SrSkippy · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Get an outlet tester. Use it on every receptacle affected by the work including those in other parts of the house that might be on the circuits directly affected.

Get a multimeter. Use the AC testing function on the part that shocked you. Connect the red wire to the right most socket on the meter and put the probe and where you touched that shocked you. Put the black wire in the center socket on the meter and put the probe in the ground pin of a nearby receptacle. If you get any constant AC voltage over 1V, you have an issue with the power supply within the dryer (most likely).

Also use the multimeter on your outlet the dryer is fed from. You should put the black probe in the ground, and the red in each of the three (or two if your dryer is older) other holes in that receptacle. You should get two of them that measure 120V AC, and one that measures 0 AC and less than 1 V DC. Then measure from one hot to the other and just confirm you get 240V AC. If you get these values and you saw a voltage when testing the inside of the dryer, the dryer is the issue. Anything else means the wiring is borked.

The $20 you spend on these will be less than 1/3 of the cost of hiring an electrician to come out and even think about the issue.

It could also be static buildup inside the dryer caused by a loose or severed grounding strap inside. Try to connect a wire from the inside to the carpet/floor in your home with an insulated wire if all of the above comes back normal - don't try this first in case there is an AC voltage issue...

u/Pinewold · 2 pointsr/electricvehicles

I would not run a car charger through any direct contact meter. If the meter dies you may looses your ride to work. Consider something like https://sense.com meter that clamps around the wires. It may be overkill but would probably work well. Sense can measure the whole house and identify each appliance.

A lower price option (still 3X your device) clamp meter + wire splitter in also bought section

Wire splitter

You need to get the wire splitter to get just the live wire.

u/Watase · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

Ammeters like that typically require the neutral/positive wires to be separated. You can't just clamp over the whole power cable to get a proper amp reading. It makes it more difficult as you need to either cut up an extension cord, or get something like this.

u/garugaga · 2 pointsr/electricians
u/SnappyCrunch · 2 pointsr/techsupport

550W may be recommended for the Athlon FX 8350, but you won't actually draw anything close to that with just a mainboard and CPU alone. The TDP on that CPU is 125W and it won't draw much more than that even at full bore. If you're not running a beefy GPU, you could probably get by with as low as a 300W PSU. The 500W PSU should be just fine assuming it's not bad.

I'm confused about whether the 550W PSU you have has an 8-pin CPU power connector or not. If it only has a 4-pin connector, the system likely won't boot.

FWIW, the only time I've seen a system powering on weakly like what you're describing is one time my buddy was building his first PC and didn't use the mainboard standoffs (thought they were thumbscrews) and screwed his mainboard directly to the case, thus shorting it out.

If you build your own systems often, I recommend having a cheap multimeter on hand for these sorts of situations. You can turn the PSU on independently of the computer with the paper clip trick, then check the rail voltages to make sure they're roughly in spec.

u/kent_eh · 2 pointsr/modeltrains

If you are going to be carrying on for a while in this hobby (and I highly recommend it!), then adding a cheap multimeter to your toolkit (and learning a bit about how to use it) would be a good plan.

u/Arve · 2 pointsr/audiophile

> Is there any way to check the speakers without using another amp?

Not really, no. About the only thing you can do is to measure the resistance of it with a multimeter - If the resistance is anything below 2 ohm, you should not connect them to another amp, as a shorted speaker can fry an amp.

A multimeter can be had for less than a visit to McDonalds

> Couldn't I just hook up a small battery to the speaker and see if it makes some sound?

No. A battery will just make the woofer move in one direction and stay there. No sound will be heard.

u/HeroDanny · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

I need a multimeter for my project bike. I'm tired of using the crappy $10 walmart ones that break and don't work correctly.

I was considering this one.

Any thoughts, opinions, and maybe some recommendations? The $110 price tag is pretty much my spending limit on this tool.

Thank you.

u/lukesdp · 2 pointsr/electricians

Disclaimer: I have no idea what kind of heat pump this is, nor do I really know too much about HVAC systems. I'm guessing this unit uses electricity to heat your house. Most heating units in my area are natural gas, so I'm making some assumptions here.

First thing I would do is throw a clamp ammeter around the unit's feeders. Just to rule out other heavy draws and you can also get a general idea just how much power each circuit is pulling. Something like this would work:
http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-T5-600-Voltage-Continuity-Current/dp/B0006Z3GZU/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1421884535&sr=8-12&keywords=fluke+amp+clamp

Outside of that, its hard for me to really help you without knowing exactly what the unit's specifications are. Maybe you just have a really large heater and really, really lousy insulation in your home. I just don't know. One thing is for sure, that is a very big electrical bill.

u/PatrickMorris · 2 pointsr/electricians

Here is the meter I used in my first year, worked great. Don't listen to these people that say you don't need one, and don't get one of those old fashioned ones with like 28 different modes and dials, this is all you need - Volts, Amps, Continuity

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006Z3GZU?ie=UTF8&tag=vrefid-20&camp=1789&creativeASIN=B0006Z3GZU&linkCode=xm2

u/unrighteous_bison · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

this one seems ok.

I bought this one, it sucks but it was available for 1-hour delivery in my area

u/Shadow_Van · 2 pointsr/Coilporn

Yeah, working on it. I already knew the more well known bits, but the more I read the more subtleties there are. Any advice on what to look for in a multimeter? looking at this one

u/caithnard · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

What are you looking to do with it and how much are you willing to spend?

I carry this guy with me on a day to day basis, does everything I need and was only $20

u/cb750k6 · 2 pointsr/HondaCB

A multimeter is a must have tool for someone running a vintage bike. They are relatively inexpensive. I can recommend this one as it has auto-ranging, but anyone you get will do.

Tutorial on multimeters and how they work.

How to test your motorcycle components.

u/nayt · 2 pointsr/CherokeeXJ

If you don't have one, they're pretty cheap on Amazon: link
I use one of these on every electrical project on my jeep for sure

u/Danpaulcornell · 2 pointsr/vintageaudio

Here are some useful links: Link; Link; Link. The Marantz cost about $58 using good quality replacements. I did a H/K 330B for $9.58. The Marantz 2285 I am working on cost about $90 for parts.

 

You will need a decent soldering iron; solder sucker; desoldering braid; lead solder; flux; and most importantly a multimeter. Here is another gear thread. Most of the manuals are available on Hifiengine. What you can't find there you can check the forums or Sams. Manuals on Fleabay should be an absolute last resort.

 

I would recommend going to a local thrift store and getting some practice junker units. It will take you some time to good at it and you certainly don't want to screw up your good unit. I still don't know anywhere near enough to do more than replace the parts and do basic troubleshooting. Fortunately for people like us, there are a lot of very helpful and knowledgeable persons on the forums who are always willing to lend a hand. Edit: Forgot about the Dim Bulb Tester.

u/MangoMan6 · 2 pointsr/electricians

https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1520974670&sr=8-6&keywords=multimeter

Its still on the cheaper end, but I've been using one extensively for 4 years and haven't had any issues besides the pos. probe becoming loose.

u/QwertzHz · 2 pointsr/flashlight

I use this, but there are probably slightly better ones at that price point if you go looking. I like this one because it's auto-ranging, but the whole "battery test" thing seems like nonsense. Hasn't failed me yet in my light usage.

u/mercurysinking · 2 pointsr/ReverseEngineering

I have this one that I like kind of a lot. It's not super flashy or anything, but it's reasonably quick, it autoranges, it's fairly accurate, and it's worked for everything I've needed so far. And, it's only $17 so you don't have much to lose. It's well built (feels sturdy). Only complaint is that it makes noises twice when it's about to shut off.

u/lithiumdeuteride · 2 pointsr/diypedals

I've used this one for many years.

It lacks capacitor- and transistor-testing modes, but it was designed mainly for automotive use, and for the price, it's very good.

u/WorkoutProblems · 2 pointsr/sportster

uhhhhhhhh If you say so...

You wouldn't know of good how to for dummies / videos that would go over these?

Also does the quality of mulitmeters really matter if it's just for motorcycle diagnoses? was thinking of getting this, but some of the reviews say it's not that great, what distinguishes a great multimeter from an okay one?

http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426173691&sr=8-1&keywords=multimeter

u/bonkersthough · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

Yeah. I use this one because it is a lot nicer than the even cheaper ones while still being pretty cheap. And its auto-ranging which is a big plus in my book. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVYGZA/

And https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014ERIFU6 those for drivers. I too was fed up with the cheap ones stripping. Again, not the best in the world but a lot better than the harbor freight special. They bite well and I haven't stripped anything with them yet.

u/darkfires · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

The ohm/volt meter I have from MyVaporStore is nice. I'm sure you can find it cheaper but I like their customer service and reliability.

However, if you're wanting a good multimeter, this one from Amazon is cheaper than most ohm/volt meters.

u/DriedT · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

I bought one of these in 2010 and another in 2017; the first one is still working fine. It's worked great for basic troubleshooting and measurements. I've used it for power consumption measuring and it seemed accurate enough. I've used them a lot, but none of it requires super accurate readings and I haven't had a single issue. If you buy one I can't guarantee the same experience, but they've been great for me.

Currently $18.80 https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVYGZA/

u/ertaisi · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Extech EX330 Autoranging Mini Multimeter with Built In Thermometer with Type K Remote Probe by Extech http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EX0AE4/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_-TGntb18D6ZH8

I bought that one in 2011, so it may be a bit outdated, but it's still working fantastically if you're looking for a good meter for more than building coils. The auto ranging is pretty spiffy.

u/bassinhound · 2 pointsr/electronics

I would stay away from really cheap meters if you are going to be measuring mains voltages. I have one of these in my portable tool bag. It's small and the non-contact voltage checker is handy.

u/djscsi · 2 pointsr/electronics

Fluke makes great equipment, of course, but I would also consider Extech. While they don't cater to the professional market as much as Fluke, they make great meters and you can find a full featured one new for well under $100. Extech also manufactures Sears Craftsman branded meters. The one I use is similar to this one

u/LD_in_MT · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Soldering iron: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-FX-888D/dp/B00ANZRT4M

Edit: most people recommend getting a chisel tip for the soldering iron. Big tips for big jobs, small tips for small jobs. Just having the pencil tip and one chisel will get you by for a long time.

Desoldering braid: https://www.amazon.com/Aven-17542-Desoldering-2-5mm-Length/dp/B003E48ERU/

Desoldering pump: https://www.amazon.com/WEmake-WM-SP4-Solder-Sucker-desoldering/dp/B0002KRAAG

You want both the pump and the braid. Get thin solder for electronics. You should probably use lead-free, but I like good old 60/40.

There are a ton of suggestions on multimeters. The exact right one for you depends on what you eventually want to do. Dave Jone's EEVBlog has some good suggestions. As does Adafruit. Anything Adafruit recommends isn't too far off the mark. If you just want a suggestion: Extech EX330 for $45 https://www.amazon.com/Extech-EX330-Autoranging-Multimeter-Thermometer/dp/B000EX0AE4 Cheaper ones will do the job, but this is a better one. The next step up are True RMS meters for about $100.

u/Yelneerg · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

You are going to want to balance tools and parts.

TOOLS (must haves)

  • Multimeters (At least two, I suggest starting with one cheapo ($5-$10) and one in the $30-$50 range)
  • Variable regulated power supply with current limiting (Skip the cheap/dangerous chinese crap and get a used HP/Agilent/Keysight one off ebay like this or this.)
  • Breadboards (several)
  • Jumper wires
  • Wire strippers and cutters
  • Decent soldering Iron ($50-$100) (DO NOT CHEAP OUT ON THIS)
  • Desoldering pump and/or wick (The ctrl-z of the soldering world)
  • Heat shrink tubing for sealing connections (Especially if you are going to be doing outdoor stuff)
  • Microcontrollers (I suggest starting with an Arudino Uno since it has the largest amount of online support material, you could get an Uno kit, any of them will be fine)
    .
    .
    TOOLS (eventually)
  • Logic Analyzer (Let's you see the logic signals in your circuit which is super helpful for debugging, I have a bitscope micro which is decent, but the software kinda sucks and is more than just a logic analyzer)
  • A function generator (variable voltage and frequency for sine, square and triangle waves) (Again I suggest used off ebay, something like this.)
  • Oscilloscope (a really amazing tool for actally seeing what is going on in your circuit)
    .
    .
    PARTS (vaguely in order of usefullness)
  • Elenco Resistor Kit
  • Elenco Capacitor Kit
  • Elenco Transistor Kit
  • Elenco Diode Kit
  • Elenco LED Kit
    (Of couse you don't have to get the Elenco kits, those are just the ones I use and really like)
  • Voltage regulator ICs (Great for providing regulated power to things that need more than what your arduino can provide)
  • Trimmer Potentiometer Kit (really useful to have around for many projects)
  • Old electronic equipment to scavenge parts out of (Many of my parts have come from old equipment or broken ATX computer power supplies. Tearing stuff apart is both fun and yields great parts.)
    .
    .
    .
    I think that's all for now...
u/electromage · 2 pointsr/flashlight

I wouldn't rely on anything that cheap, it's just in my truck toolbox for quick charging system checks. Something I can run over and not care about.

Generally anything sub-$100 is considered "cheap" by multimeter standards, Fluke makes the most popular meters, really the industry workhorses. They have a new entry level model called the 101 for $70.

The Extech EX330 is a popular cheaper model, I've seen it as low as $40.

Edit: Check out this video, the EX330 was the favorite of the bunch.

u/joshw42 · 2 pointsr/Tools

Flukes are definitely the best, but for automotive use, you're not really going to be super demanding. Less expensive + disposable may be a better way to start off your career on this specific item.. i'm sure you have other expensive tools to buy ;-) You can always upgrade later.

I have one of these guys, and it does what I need it to, personally: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EX0AE4

u/principledsociopath · 2 pointsr/ZeroMotorcycles

Your link has a link to the DC/DC converter section of the manual. It's under the seat, and the wires are labeled: “enable” turns on the converter, “in” is high voltage, “out” is 12 volts.

You'll need a multimeter to read the voltages on the wires and connectors.

u/fivethirdstwo · 2 pointsr/Tools

I'd buy a fluke if I could justify it... but i can't so i bought this https://www.amazon.com/Mastech-MS8268-MS8261-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000JQ4O2U/ . Its a good balance of good, cheap, and tough.

You might also want to look at the fluke 12E. Its made for the chinese market but makes it way over here. here is a video from AvE talking about it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJm9iCha-jM

u/amishengineer · 2 pointsr/electricians

Do you have a multimeter to test AC voltage? If you're up for and you're just careful not short anything while poking around. A cheap multimeter is all you'll need to maybe find the fault location. Start at the panel and check the incoming voltage from the meter and go from there.

Something like this: $24 - www.amazon.com/Mastech-Manual-Digital-Multimeter-MS8268/dp/B000JQ4O2U

u/therealsutano · 2 pointsr/arduino

Personal favorite cheap dmm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JQ4O2U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_scIuyb89GBR67

A bigger breadboard might be nice as well

u/AnalogKid2112 · 2 pointsr/EngineeringStudents

Those kits are OK, but I might suggest getting yourself some boards like these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CGV6TZG

And a basic component kit such as this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01EROKLBC

With those you can practice all you want and come up with your own configurations. Start with getting an LED to light up and go from there.

For a cheap multimeter I like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000JQ4O2U

u/Notevenspecial · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

If you have the miniature incandescent lights, this tool is awesome:

https://www.amazon.com/Keeper-01201-Complete-Fixing-Miniature/dp/B000R8KBOK

NOTE: Does not work on LEDs.

u/LethargicBeerSponge · 2 pointsr/DIY

I've had the same problem before. Most of the time it was just a loose light in one of the sockets. Finding that bulb and replacing it or re-working the wire connectors on the bulb so that they fit the socket better seemed to work. I've also had some success with this guy. Though I only paid five bucks for it in an after Christmas sale, and I really use it mainly for popping out light bulbs more easily. It does seem to help sometimes though.

u/jmundella · 2 pointsr/howto

Light Keeper PRO 01201 The Complete Tool for Fixing Miniature Light Sets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000R8KBOK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7Tk8BbQEMWA35

This saves me ever year.

Here’s a video to explain, there a more detailed 40 min video on their channel.

https://youtu.be/xrXRxOIjVm0

u/thisisyourbestoption · 2 pointsr/mildlyinfuriating

https://www.amazon.com/Keeper-01201-Complete-Fixing-Miniature/dp/B000R8KBOK

Buy one of these. I was skeptical, but assuming you're using regular Christmas lights strands, it will have you sorted out in 30 seconds.

Although shooting them with an actual gun might be more fun.

u/Mexi_Cant · 2 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

I typed a long way to fix it using a multimeter or a Non-Contact Voltage Tester and it deleted itself. I even had a joke. Just Get this LIght fixer thing that works



a found you a video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZAzbqMTrp40

u/skywise_ca · 2 pointsr/teslamotors

If you're pondering this because of the other post today and your outlet is 120V then this is what can test it.

https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519597199&sr=8-1&keywords=outlet+tester&dpID=41lRWPMgkJL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

If it's a dryer outlet, it's probably fine if it has been doing it's normal job up to now.

u/dstutz · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Waterlox should be great for the bathroom. If you have one of those outlet testers you could double check but if the electrician did it, it's probably fine.

u/Tude · 2 pointsr/fixit

This does a great job at detecting wiring faults and is cheap: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUL2UU/

u/TheLostBryan · 2 pointsr/personalfinance

I use a gfci outlet tester. They are pretty cheap, and check that the wiring is as it should be (hot, neutral and ground in the right place). There is a button on it that will trip a gfci breaker to make sure it works as it should.

http://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Outlet-Tester/dp/B000RUL2UU

u/machu505 · 2 pointsr/hvacadvice

Perhaps a grounding/loose neutral issue. Or even a reversed hot/neutral. Use a circuit tester to test the outlet for faults if possible.

u/Sillywillychille · 2 pointsr/electricians

I wouldn't assume that three prong outlet is properly wired, Someone could have just thrown it in there even if there isn't a ground wire ran to the box. You could buy a plug tester like this and it will tell you if it's wired correctly. It is possible someone could have wired the outlet to trick a tester into thinking there was a ground by jumping from the neutral to the ground.

Ultimately i would recommend having an electrician inspect the wiring in your house. Your houses original wiring is old and may not have a means to ground available at every outlet. I would find someone you can trust to take a look at everything, You don't know how many people, qualified or not, have worked in your home.

u/SCphotog · 2 pointsr/computers

Make sure your computer is properly grounded. Make sure the outlet you're plugged into is wired correctly.

Ground tester... can be found at any hardware store, home depot etc... for just a few bucks.

Most uninterruptible power supply units these days have ground fault detection built in... and you should be using one regardless.

https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523144160&sr=8-1&keywords=ground+fault+tester

That aside, something shorted out. You have an exposed wire or something somewhere or the GPU is touching something that it shouldn't be.

u/Dippyskoodlez · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

The casing is for shielding, as at the end of the cable the pairs are untwisted and no longer individually shielded going into the RJ45 connector. It could potentially connect the ground from one device to another if it's wired into the shielding across the cable. It shouldn't be the cause of this issue though.

If you're feeling a shock it's because you have a grounding issue between your PC and the wall(or the outlet itself) and should get that checked out.

Perhaps check out something like this(If you're on 120v), it's possible your house/building wiring is FUBAR. I had a nice shock when I was connecting my parents fridge water hose to the fridge.

https://smile.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Outlet-Tester/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487960559&sr=8-1&keywords=sperry+outlet+tester

u/SupaZT · 2 pointsr/teslamotors

Time to invest into a multimeter or Outlet Tester

u/Vlad_the_Homeowner · 2 pointsr/homeowners

This is far cheaper than a single unnecessary GFCI receptacle:

https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539193478&sr=8-3&keywords=circuit+tester

Every home owner should have one. Put it in, push button, it'll let you know if it's protected. As I posted above, receptacle needs to be GFCI protected, but there are more ways than one to do that. Not every outlet needs those two little buttons on it.

​

​

u/umos199 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I would still test your home wiring. you can order things like this or find them at just about any store with an electrical section.

u/ichabod13 · 2 pointsr/videos

If the dishwasher is plugged into a outlet you can access, you can buy a cheap outlet tester like this one on Amazon
and see if your wiring is good. Sorry if this was already suggested somewhere. :P You can find the plug testers at any hardware store too.

u/Bill_Money · 2 pointsr/hometheater

Get somethign like this http://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Outlet-Tester/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452385389&sr=8-1&keywords=outlet+tester make sure the outlet is wired correctly.

If it is then get a really good spurge suppressor possibly one with filtering

u/Art_in_MT · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I suggest proceeding VERY methodically. Two things I've found over the years:

  1. the GFI device is not always the first outlet on the circuit. Your power could be coming from another box "upstream", and

  2. for reasons only known to themselves, sometimes non-electricians will swap black-for-white. Thus, your next box might have been wired wrong (white is hot / screwed to brass), and "fixed" here because it was easier to get to. (Didn't want to move that 65 gallon aquarium.)

    I find one of these testers to be real handy when working on unknown wiring, and for checking my own after completion. LINK
u/locool676 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Here is a quick how to: http://www.acmehowto.com/electrical/grounding.php


You can also get the all in one type and plug it into all your outlets to test: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000RUL2UU

u/Lurkmcgirk · 2 pointsr/modular

Doepfer PSUs are solid. As others have said, you may have another issue. Try find an outlet tester like the one shown here, but for continental Europe obviously. This will quickly rule out or identify the mains wiring to that outlet as the problem
https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Receptacle-Outlet-Ground-Tester/dp/B0012DHVQ0

Also, I would suggest disconnecting the Bus Boards if they aren't already.

u/RexKoeck · 2 pointsr/buildapc

The case and PSU body should both be grounded, such that you should not receive any current even if there is an electrical fault within the computer.

Are you using a grounded cable (with all three pins going to the outlet), and is your electrical system grounded correctly? (Might need one of these to test) Anyway that's all safety related stuff, if there is current flowing from your PSU body then it sounds faulty and I would avoid using it or at least try to do some testing if you have a multimeter.

u/techrespect · 2 pointsr/computer_help

You need to first check the power plug is properly grounding. https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Receptacle-Outlet-Ground-Tester/dp/B0012DHVQ0

u/bigstonedkitty · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

get one of these, will tell you right away. I'm having the same problem, none of my outlets are grounded, however its a mix of three prong and two prong outlets, but that doesn't matter, there is just no ground at all.

u/Ballistic_Turtle · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

As lenne0816 said, it's either a grounding issue or there could be a short to your front panel causing it to trip the power button.

Check that the front panel wires/pins are all placed correctly and that everything is how it generally should be in your case. If everything is absolutely correct, it may be in your best interest to get one of these and call an electrician if something is wrong. You'd be surprised how many houses are improperly grounded.

Could also just be one of your LED strips or the controller are bad. Try unplugging everything not necessary for booting and see if it fixes it.

u/llookk · 2 pointsr/buildapc

http://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Receptacle-Outlet-Ground-Tester/dp/B0012DHVQ0

one of those will tell you if your wall socket has a ground and wired correctly.

u/northrupthebandgeek · 2 pointsr/techsupport

> The wall outlet may not be grounded but is 3-prong.

Pick up one of these puppies and get that outlet tested, stat. If the outlet checks out, check the power cord for any frays/cuts, then check the PSU and consider replacing it.

Either way, definitely sounds like something isn't properly grounded.

u/dmscheidt · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

the narrow slot is the hot one. there's voltage there; there's not usually in the neutral one. But what non-contact testers detect are magnetic fields, not actually voltage. Different outlets have different patterns of magnetic fields, and how you put the wires in the box can mater too. If you're worried about wiring the outlet, use an outlet tester to check it.

u/Tolookah · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

If I understand correctly, there's a chance that blackened bit is keeping that side of the connection to the dryer from being a good connection. (that black sooty carbon is a decent insulation when you don't want it to be). without pictures, it's hard to tell if the cord has problems, but that's where I would look first.

Related for others, do they make a receptacle tester for the 4 prong outlets? I'm thinking something similar to this https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-50542-3-Wire-Receptacle/dp/B002LZTKIA

u/gar187er · 2 pointsr/NoStupidQuestions

Yup. It has a 3 lights and tells you if it's good, or has an open neutral, or bad ground.

https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-50542-3-Wire-Receptacle/dp/B002LZTKIA

u/roofuskit · 2 pointsr/DIY

Any hardware store carries something like this for $10 or less. https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-50542-3-Wire-Receptacle/dp/B002LZTKIA

u/djimbob · 2 pointsr/Bass

You need to ground your amp. First, those outlets look pretty unsafe. You are hearing main line buzz (click the 60 Hz mains hum)

Really what you need to do is get an electrician to rewire the outlet with a proper ground and follow local electrical code. Not doing it is risk of death/electrocution/fire.

However, if it's not an option (e.g., renting or it's cost-prohibitive), you could get away with a plug adapters like the following:

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-274-274-000-Grounding-Adapter/dp/B000H5WGJ6/

if properly installed (e.g., the junction box is metal and grounded, and so you screw that adapter into the outlet so there's a connected ground). As a last resort if you like to live dangerously, you may be able to clamp an electrical wire to between the adapter ground and a metal water/radiator pipe (again if you are sure there's no non-metal connector anywhere along the pipe), if the pipe is grounded. You probably would want GFCI circuits if you are doing this, because if there is a ground fault (say from a bad appliance being plugged in), you don't want you metal water pipe to suddenly become live and potentially electrocute you and/or start a fire.

Once the outlet is grounded you should test with a ground tester (like $5) and verify you have a real ground and no other issues.

There could additionally be other grounding problems if the wiring in the guitar is bad or the cable is also bad, but you will have bad buzzing if you don't fix the ground first.

EDIT: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nakpj_Mee0Q

u/the_fritz · 2 pointsr/Guitar

You might also want to check the outlet for a ground fault. There is an inexpensive device you can get at the hardware store, like this:

http://www.amazon.com/GE-50542-Receptacle-Improper-Indicator/dp/B002LZTKIA

u/ioctl79 · 2 pointsr/electrical

No. There's lots of wiring mistakes you could make and still operate a lightbulb: reverse hot/neutral, open ground, neutral/ground short, etc. Get one of these to test the wiring connections:
https://smile.amazon.com/Power-Gear-50542-3-Wire-Receptacle/dp/B002LZTKIA?sa-no-redirect=1

Note: not an electrician.

u/salomoncascade · 2 pointsr/Portland
u/wch_one · 2 pointsr/leaf

You can get a plug tester like this to diagnose if there's a wiring problem: https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-Receptacle-Indications-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA

If it's happened from other outlets, it could be that the whole circuit has a problem. When I first plugged in the charger I got with my Leaf, it had a blinking green light. I used one of these plug testers and confirmed that the circuit for the garage wasn't grounded at all.

u/ArkyBeagle · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

These are not optional. I carry one in my gig bag ( as a player ) because I do not want to die:
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-Receptacle-Indications-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA

u/evaned · 2 pointsr/electricvehicles

> From what you've described it sounds like a ground error

Even though it may not change what you do, I think it's worth a quick check with one of those cheapo outlet testers (link to an example I got to via a quick Google search, no specific endorsement of that one). One of the things they test for is whether there's an open ground.

Note, these outlet testers are not perfect. There are faults and combinations of faults they can't diagnose or can't completely diagnose. In this particular case, if I pull something out of my ass I can imagine the EVSE doing a more rigorous test of the quality of ground, so just because the outlet tester indicates that there's no open ground doesn't mean it's a good enough ground.

I have vague memories of people saying that some EVSEs won't provide power if they don't have a good ground, so this could be it.

u/binarycow · 2 pointsr/homeowners

Grab an outlet tester. First thing is, it will test the outlet in the moment. But, if you leave it plugged in, you can have a constant visual indicator if the outlet is working (there's a light on it).

But yeah, replace the outlet.

Links: https://www.homedepot.com/c/how_to_install_a_receptacle_HT_PG_EL

https://www.theartofdoingstuff.com/how-to-replace-an-ugly-old-electrical-outlet/

u/B1ackMagix · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Run, don't walk, to your nearest home depot / lowes and buy an outlet tester for 5-6 dollars. Should look like this

https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-3-Wire-Receptacle-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA

It's fairly simple to use, plug it in, see what lights come on and go from there. I'm almost willing to put money on your outlets not being properly grounded and if that's the case, there are probably more. You'll want to test the outlets in and around your house paying particular attention to any area with water in it (bathroom, kitchen, outside).

The UPS won't provide a ground if there's not a ground on the outlet.

u/5aculu5 · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Check every outlet you plug into with one of these: http://www.amazon.com/GE-50542-3-Wire-Receptacle-Tester/dp/B002LZTKIA/

I plugged a headphone amp into an improperly wired outlet then connected it to my interface on another circuit resulting in a huge voltage drop against grounds killing all outputs on my interface and blowing a fuse. A small voltage drop between circuits will cause a shock, while an improperly wired outlet across grounds can kill.

u/LeaveTheMatrix · 2 pointsr/talesfromtechsupport

For first testing I just use one of these

Can carry it in your pocket and seems to be pretty reliable. (hasn't failed me in 10 years so far)

For extended testing, such as if that shows a problem or later develop a problem (damn mice) then I go with a standard voltmeter.

EDIT: Better link that shows what all it checks for.

u/shadowblade · 2 pointsr/DIY

I also strongly recommend a receptacle tester. Good for quick checks like OP is talking about. It also indicates any wiring faults.

u/drucius · 2 pointsr/homeowners

As for outlets: buy one of these outlet testers. The diagnostic lights will tell you exactly what you are dealing with. If your outlets are 3 prong but not grounded that is not a good situation and how to fix it depends on many variables (Basement vs crawlspace vs slab, attic access, are the boxes grounded but not the outlets). At least the diagnostics will tell you enough to know what you are dealing with and if you need an electrician.

As for checking breakers, I would suggest turning on all the lights in the house. Go to the breaker box, turn each breaker off, one at a time and make sure the label in the box matches what actually turns off in the house. Fixing the labels now might save you a hour in the dark in the future.

Similarly, look at all your plumbing shutoffs. Make sure they are not leaking. Turn each faucet on first hot, then cold, then close the shutoff in the basement and/or under the sink. Label ones you find in the basement, hot vs cold and what room/rooms they feed. Again this tells you if you might need a plumber (or DIY) to resolve some bad shutoffs (gate valves >15yrs old should not be trusted) and can help if(when) you have a serious leak in the future.

u/graffiti81 · 2 pointsr/fixit

Upvote for having a $5 tester. Everyone should have one.

u/cerealport · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

Get a power bar with surge protector that has the "building wiring fault" LED on it, or get one of those "outlet checkers" at Home Depot etc. I.e. https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-3-Wire-Receptacle-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA

Although those checkers can sometimes lie about the ground if something is plugged in that is tying the ground to neutral, where in that case my building wiring fault LED still told the truth.

Basically plug in and switch on the power bar / check the lights before plugging everything else in..

u/intronert · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

Immediately tomorrow, go to Harbor Freight, or Fry's, or Amazon.com, or wherever and buy a 3-prong electrical receptacle tester like this, for example, and check your outlets. Then hire an electrician to come in an fix them.

Or just skip the tester, and get the electrician in before someone dies.

u/nx_2000 · 2 pointsr/CasualConversation

Another thing about the outlets would be checking to make sure the three-prong ones are actually grounded. Socket testers are cheap, or you may already have a power strip with a ground light.

u/notWell69 · 2 pointsr/techsupportgore
u/Junkmans1 · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I've thought about picking up a circuit breaker finder, like this one to help identify all my circuits. If I were starting over and moving to a new house that didn't have all the breakers labeled I'd definitely do it. Much easier than the idea of testing each one with a lamp and two people yelling (or phoning) back and forth.

u/rboymtj · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Nah, I put one in before I knew much about wiring. Just watch some youtube videos and be sure to turn off the breaker.

I'd get one of those Voltage Detectors. I'm usually really careful but I would have been shocked a couple times if I didn't use the tester.

u/vprviper · 2 pointsr/Tools

You could walk around the house and point a non contact voltage tester at everything. Recommendation.
It does high and low voltage - let me know if it picks up any ghosts as well, I might go on a journey with mine.

u/Jessie_James · 2 pointsr/homeowners

You can get a no-contact power tester at Home Depot, etc., while you are there buying a new outlet. :)

So, remove the outlet cover plate, but leave the outlet in. Stick the tester in the sides of the outlet, touching the wire, if it's live it will beep and blink. If there is no power, it does nothing. Typically outlets are wired with power coming in one side (left, for example), and out the other side (right, for example). So touch the left wire(s), then the right. If one side does not have power, that outlet is the problem.

Turn the power off, then read the directions that come with the outlet. They are really simple. You can either strip the wire and screw it onto the outlet terminal, or strip the wire and jam it into a little hole on the back. Check YouTube for "replace outlet" videos, and you will see how simple it is. It's like one screw to remove the outlet, then 2 screws for power, and one for the ground.

u/pcj · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

You don't need to go all out with a Fluke, just get a non-contact voltage tester for quick double-checking and a multimeter for all-around use.

u/BishBoJangle · 2 pointsr/videos
u/PinBot1138 · 2 pointsr/homesecurity

This is the voltage detector pen that I was telling you about, /u/achstuff:

​

Klein Tools NCVT-2 Dual Range Tester, Non Contact Tester for Standard and Low Voltage with 3-m Drop Protection

​

These are the RJ-45 Ethernet jacks that I use:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079K7XMGQ/

​

This is the crimper that I use (the wires pass through the jacks and then this cuts them)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00939KFOU/

​

And this is the tester that I use:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQH4XPW/

​

I have some other tools which I can list, but this the base set that you'd want to use to get rolling. The nice part about these particular jacks is that their bin's outside label has the diagram for the T568B standard (which you'll want to use (assuming you're crimping both sides of the cable) unless you're trying to match T568A)

u/zeevenkman · 2 pointsr/Home

Yes. Make sure you turn off the breaker. If you want to feel extra comfortable turn off all the circuits haha. Or get a circuit tester like this: http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-NCVT-2-Non-Contact-Voltage/dp/B004FXJOQO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1426008999&sr=8-3&keywords=circuit+tester

u/chloraphil · 2 pointsr/LifeProTips

Just yesterday I fixed a light strand that was half out by using one of these:http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004FXJOQO, a current detector that I already owned.

A working, turned-on bulb will have current on both sides. A busted bulb will have current on only one side.

u/-WB-Spitfire · 2 pointsr/techsupport

The top GPU is probably toast, and some component that we can't see probably fried. Whether or not it was due to the PSU, or just the GPU going out, I don't know.

I'd get a PSU tester (Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO/ ) to see if the PSU is still good before putting it into any rig again.

u/lechango · 2 pointsr/techsupport

It is possible that irregular voltages could have damaged the GPU, but likely it's OK.

The best way to test a PSU is with an actual tester, this is the one I use: http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463180347&sr=8-2&keywords=power+supply+tester

You can also test each rail manually with a multimeter: http://pcsupport.about.com/od/toolsofthetrade/ht/power-supply-test-multimeter.htm

I can say with about 85% certainty that a new PSU will clear up your issues, but there is a small chance it's damaged another component.

u/royalba94 · 2 pointsr/hardwareswap

If you have a pin remover (makeshift or actual) and the pinouts its a pretty simple process. Just be sure to triple check your work before plugging it into actual hardware. PSU testers (like the TT Dr power ii) are handy for that.

u/EZPCmods · 2 pointsr/PCSleeving

Extensions are easier to make, as you said 1 to 1, no hassle. Custom cables for modular PSU requires pin-out diagrams and a tester to insure that the cables are correct and won't "blow your rig." You may also run into double wires, which require a little more work to make them look good and function correctly.

In the end extensions are cheaper, less time consuming, and easier to install for most people. Custom cables are a lot more time consuming and require more tools to ensure that everything is kosher.

Lutro0's double wire guide.

u/Saik0Shinigami · 2 pointsr/buildapc


RAM:

hit the windows-key

type mdsched

Run it now. This will check your ram for faults. It will take about 30 minutes to complete, and will tell you on the lower part of the screen if it's running okay (no faults found) or if there's problems. If you miss the warning on the screen while the test is running you can find results under event viewer.

Power Supply:

Find another to swap with and test. Or get one of these.

Motherboard:

When both the above fail, it's relatively safe to assume motherboard.

If what you describe is correct (Truly random restarts) Then it's likely one of these three things. If there's something else going on then we need more details to go on.

u/TwinkyTheBear · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I've had one of these for a few years now. I consider it a pretty great investment as it's helped me out several times. Power supply tester.

Personally, I'm now in the habit of always using a UPS. The best part? I keep my internet stuff on a UPS too and I usually have internet during power outages. It's great.

This is some information about power strips.

When you hit the power button, does anything at all happen? Is there any clicking? Do the motherboard lights eventually go out? Do you have to reset the PSU before you can do anything? Or is it just absolutely flat out nothing when you press the switch?

u/JASTechnologies · 2 pointsr/techsupport

I like Corsair PSU the most. JMHO

Before you spend that much money think of investing in a PSU tester. I have, this is my latest arrival.

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO

u/cawfee · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Though it's difficult to tell without a tester or multimeter, it sounds like a bad PSU. Depending on the setup, a surge could have knocked it out (especially if there isn't any kind of voltage regulation between the outlet and the unit). What model / make is your power supply?

Here's a basic test you can perform with a paper clip. The color coding is Corsair-specific, but the methodology works for all ATX PSUs:

https://youtu.be/5FWXgQSokF4

u/AceofToons · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I would also suggest popping onto /r/fixapc/ and posting this if you haven't already.

Did you build this PC yourself?

I would suggest checking to make sure that the stand-offs are properly installed. Also check your ground connection. It's definitely power related. Like something is retaining power that shouldn't or something is getting power that it shouldn't or something is not getting power that it should. Which is why I am checking for a short (the standoffs and ground). The other thing I would suggest is trying another power supply. You could also get yourself one of these to test your power supply. You don't need to get that fancy of one if you are OK with basic readouts. I just don't know what you skill level is when it comes to electrical work. If it's not the powersupply and not the standoffs I would lean towards the MoBo.

Good luck!

u/gregz83 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

It could be your PSU, or your motherboard, if you want to know for sure:

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO/

u/Hawkdup45 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Had the same problem,it was my rosewill green 600W PSU. You need to test that power supply with either a PSU tester like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005UZHB6G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T1_n9BnzbJWS4NY7 or a DVOM like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B7CS3UY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T1_a-BnzbAV7N36P

u/uo959 · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Start here. I'm a soon to be IT guy and love using my mech as well as the tinkering, so I am sure you will too.

As far as beginner setup a tobh RDA is easy to build on and a Nemesis mech is usually considered a good starter. The mech isn't as necessary to get a "starter" because it is kind of hard to mess up. You would be fine with a Stingray, 4nine, Vanilla, Penny, or Caravela. I have a 'Vela now and wish I had it as a beginner mech. Either way you go make sure you get copper or silver plated brass contacts.

Nitecore charger from Amazon is what you want and I would get either Sony vtc4/vtc5 or Samsung 25r batteries. 26 or 28 awg from Amazon. The rest you should have around the house. I started wrapping coils around wooden toothpicks, but since your IT I'm sure you have a precision screwdriver set. Just plain old cotton balls are fine for wicking(I have never boiled cotton and have never had problems).

Feel free to ask any questions. I hope this puts you all in the right direction.

Edit: Forgot to mention, I got a multimeter off of Amazon too. Here it is. Also, I added some links of where to get a few things.

u/Third_Ward_Gent · 2 pointsr/houston

Aeon Labs ZW095

It's mounted inside the breaker panel with the CTs around the wire below the main breaker. Utilizing Home Assistant, Grafana, and InfluxDB to pull everything together to collect data and make pretty graphs.

u/FackYourButt69 · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

Aeotec home energy meter gives you amps/voltage/khw. Pair it with home assistant, send metrics to influxdb, graph with grafana.

https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Electricity-Monitor-Consumption-Detects/dp/B00XD8WZX6/

u/jds013 · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

The Aeotec power meter is much less expensive.

u/clockwork_awkward · 2 pointsr/LGG3

I've seen a few YouTube reviewers using this device

u/SirensToGo · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Not the exact same, but I own this which does the exact same thing. With prime if that's your shnick

u/sexoverthephone · 2 pointsr/thinkpad

I'd be surprised if it could supply over 1amp. Buy one of these and see for yourself what kind of capability various USB ports have: http://www.amazon.com/PowerJive-Voltage-Multimeter-chargers-capacity/dp/B013FANC9W/ref=sr_1_2?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1451375081&sr=1-2&keywords=usb+doctor

u/legalpretzel · 2 pointsr/homeowners

Plug in a vacuum or hair dryer and turn it on. Then flip the breaker switch. Or buy one of these - https://www.amazon.com/Receptacle-Tester-Klein-Tools-RT210/dp/B01AKX8L0M

u/Droid126 · 2 pointsr/NiceHash

Well a typical USB 2.0 port is specified to deliver 5W, so lets assume its a fancy keyboard with RGB and its using all 5watts. In 1 year it would consume 4.38kwhs, that times the US average of 12 cents per kwh gives us $0.52/year, or $0.00144/day

If you really want to know you could find out with one of these

u/amb9800 · 2 pointsr/windowsphone

Well so one additional detail is that (prior to USB C) the combination of charger and phone dictate whether the full ~2.4A is actually drawn. The requirements are a bit different for phones from different vendors, which is why many charger vendors advertise compatibility with different manufacturers' phones (e.g. Anker PowerIQ). So just because a charger can feed a phone 2.4A doesn't mean it'll actually hit that. You can measure the current flow using a USB power meter that sits between the phone and charger (e.g. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01D9Y6ZFW/ ).


But yes, if your old charger is actually able to feed its full rated power to the 950XL, then it's not much slower than the fastest the phone can take, which would come from a charger with 3A max output and a USB-C connector, plugged into the phone via a USB C-to-C cable.

u/mustfix · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I don't get a notification if you don't reply to me.

An ohm meter is typically part of a multi-meter. There's around $15. If you read near 0 ohms, that means the wire is good. A broken wire has infinite ohms (or the display remains blank).

A network toner starts at ~$20 and specifically designed to trace network cables through walls. You can also utilize the alligator clips to attach individual wires and tone the other end. If there's no tone, that means you have a broken wire.

Notice I keep saying wire. Yes, I mean each individual wire of the 4 pairs. So you'd need to trace all 8.

This is a lot of work when you can just replace the cable for pennies (if you're cutting and running from a spool).

u/IseeNekidPeople · 2 pointsr/PLC

Remember you get what you pay for, but since you're just trying this out I found some cheap options on amazon:
Volt meter
3 position switch Keep in mind you need to make sure you match your inputs and outputs to the voltage the PLC I/O wants (120v AV or 24v DC)
Indicator light you can use as an output to turn on/off
Looks like the PLC wants 24vDC power so you'll need something like this to switch your 120 power from the wall.

u/overflowing_garage · 2 pointsr/Fixxit

You don't need a super expensive multimeter to work on bikes. The $6 one from Harbor freight will work fine, but the lead are short and the wire inside is thin.

I often use the AstoAI one from Amazon that runs about $11. I picked this one because I didn't need a crazy meter and It had a decent clamshell case for it.

I combine the meter with this kit . . . super sharp / low profile meter leads are a GOD send.

As for your connectors. I've never used those personally, but the waterproof bullet insert type that have a male/female end are often found on bikes from the factory.

u/NCC1941 · 2 pointsr/ebikes

Typically, the black wire is negative and the black wire with a white stripe is positive.

However, I wouldn't want to do work like this without a multimeter ($10 on Amazon or maybe $10-$15 at Walmart), and with a multimeter, you can just directly find out which wire is positive and which is negative without any guesswork.

u/LastTreestar · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

Oh, they are way cheaper than that in places. And also, you can get a simple LED test light for a few bucks. Only tells if there's power, but it's often enough to do the job.

EDIT: LOL this is the el cheapo beater I got: https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage-Tester/dp/B01ISAMUA6 It's all you need!

u/TomokoNoKokoro · 2 pointsr/cars

You should. You never know when it'll come in handy.

This one is a whole $11 and is probably good enough for what you or I will ever use one for.

u/GotMyOrangeCrush · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ISAMUA6/

$14 multimeter.

Overall electrical troubleshooting is not super difficult. In general you’re measuring if the ground wire (the negative wire) has continuity from the headlamp socket to the vehicle chassis which is common with the negative terminal of the battery.

The ground wires on cars are bolted to the vehicle chassis. So somewhere near your headlights there are ground wires bolted to the car. If those bolted connections are loose, corroded or the wires are damaged, then the headlights won’t work.

On the positive side of the circuit it gets more complicated, but you would start by measuring both sides of the headlight fuses in the under hood fuse box and also listen to hear if the headlight relay clicks on. On many cars you can swap the low beam and high beam relays to test. Then you would check for 12 volts at the correct pin of the headlight.

u/nosmokingbandit · 2 pointsr/CNC

You might want to check the output of your controller just to make sure that the problem isn't deeper. Idk what anything is supposed to measure, but if you compare the z outputs to the x or y outputs it should be pretty easy to figure out if something is wrong. If you don't have a multi meter you can get a pretty basic one for ~$10. Or if you have good neighbors you can probably borrow one -- it is standard kit in most middle-aged men's toolboxes.

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Multimeter-MSR-R500-Electronic-Multimeters/dp/B01N9QW620?ref_=Oct_BSellerC_15707471_1&pf_rd_p=2bd56caf-41c7-5afe-a16b-f91d83e8f5ca&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=15707471&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=RWEXC9AQXED7VJG8FQE0&pf_rd_r=RWEXC9AQXED7VJG8FQE0&pf_rd_p=2bd56caf-41c7-5afe-a16b-f91d83e8f5ca

u/cocobill13 · 2 pointsr/GlobalOffensive

Try multimeter like this https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Multimeter-MSR-R500-Electronic-Multimeters/dp/B01N9QW620, you need to test voltage and grounding

u/xmagusx · 2 pointsr/ergodox

It looks like you have damaged contacts, may have caused bridges, and who knows what all else. If you want to attempt to fix it, I'd say you need to be prepared to spend a lot of quality time with at least a cheap multimeter or other circuit continuity tool in order to determine where circuits are failing when they should succeed and where they are succeeding when they should fail. And you should definitely be prepared to discover in so doing that the damage is indeed too extensive to make a repair worthwhile.

Given that, it may well be more prudent to accept that pcb as a write-off and begin disassembling and desoldering everything and buying a relatively inexpensive replacement pcb.

Mostly it comes down to how you want to spend your time.

If you want to hone your circuit troubleshooting skills, this is an excellent opportunity to get more hands on experience with digital electronics and learn quite a bit.

If you just want a working Ergodox as quickly as possible, then I'd say accept the loss and begin rebuilding now.

u/Talks_To_Cats · 1 pointr/buildapc

I'm not an electrition, so this may not be a perfect explanation. but the ground pin gives your device a way to discharge static electricity or overvoltage by giving the electricity a way to "escape" from the system. Remember the First Law of Thermodynamics:

> Energy cannot be created or destoyed, only transfered.

So if you want to deal with a voltage spike, you can't just eliminate that electiricity. It has to be transfered, converted, or similar. In the case of modern homes, it is transfered into the earth via a third ground wire. Ordinarilly the path of least resistance will be your electronics, and power will flow through that instead of the ground wire. In an overloaded circuit that path of least resistance should be the ground. So it effectively works as a primitive form of voltage control.

From this site

>A surge protector used at a non-grounded receptacle is a glorified extension cord, and provides no additional protection, only a false sense of protection.

Something like this outlet tester will let you know if your house is wired up correctly or not. Just because an outlet has 3 pins doesn't mean that third pin is necessarily connected to anything.

>If an outlet isn't grounded, what can it do to your gear

Overcharge and destroy it. Possible fire risk.

For something that's off, it generally won't matter, so don't freak out if your vacuume or toaster only has a two-prong outlet. But for something you might use in a storm and that uses a substantial amount of electricity (i.e. a computer, air conditioner or heater), or that is particularly sensitive, that ground wire is important.

You'll find most modern TVs and light fixtures don't have a third prong. I am not 100% sure why but I assume it's because they have such a low power draw.

>and how would one go about addressing that?

The only real way is to hire an electrition, rewire your outlets yourself (be safe! Turn off your circuit breakers first!) or choose a different, grounded outlet. There's no quick fix or adapter to "ground" an outlet that I know of, at least not that are safe and to code.

You'll find

u/KenZ71 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Me thinks one of these would be a good idea

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LZTKIA/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_5LGEzb90DQ3QT a receptacle tester.

u/Sphingomyelinase · 1 pointr/DIY

The green screw is irrelevant unless the ground wire is connected. You have to figure out which is which.

An outlet tester will help; connect each wire
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LZTKIA

u/TwistedD85 · 1 pointr/crtgaming

Always nice to have one of these around for a quick check.

u/wabbiteh · 1 pointr/DIY

I am not an electrician, nor am I experienced with home wiring.

You can buy a tester for your outlets. That said, it would probably be more prudent to get an electrician in. You're going to need to call one anyway.

Anyway, the 120V/240V/0V thing refers to the split-phase power delivery system common in North America. In this system you have two hot wires, instead of just one. One of those hot wires is the inverse voltage of the other (so if we say that ground is 0V, then when the first hot wire is at 120V, the other hot wire is at -120V). If you connect ground to hot, you get a certain voltage (120V). If you connect the first hot to the second hot, you get double that voltage (240V).

As to what is happening in your case, I've no idea. In a proper wiring setup, the ground wire (and thus all things connected to the ground wire, like the case of an appliance, your junction boxes, etc.) are directly attached to a big metal thing stuck deep in the earth.

u/heavymcd · 1 pointr/Guitar

Testing the outlet is easy, I think something like this would work?

Power Gear 3-Wire Receptacle Tester

50542 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LZTKIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6CmHzb4P7QZQV

That's perfectly safe to use.

As for risk to yourself, I'm not an electrician so I can't speak authoritatively to any additional risk from an ungrounded amp. I'm pretty sure there is some added risk though. Low, but still.

u/tielknight · 1 pointr/TEAMEVGA

Well that should rule that out unless they screwed up the wiring. If you want to be 100% sure you can always grab a outlet tester.

Otherwise it sounds like you just have some really really bad luck and I hope they'll get their heads together and fix it for you as they should have just sent you a new unit after the 2nd time.

u/neums08 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Something like this http://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-50542-3-Wire-Receptacle/dp/B002LZTKIA/ can show if the outlet is wired properly. "Open Ground" would indicate that the outlet is not properly grounded and will make the PC more sensitive to static shocks and surges.

My old apartment had a grounding issue and any time I plugged in a USB device, built up charge in the device would cause a surge and crash my PC.

In the mean time, try using an outlet in an entirely different part of the house.

u/RugerRedhawk · 1 pointr/DIY

Not sure if this will help solve your particular problem, but I personally plug one of these: http://www.amazon.com/o/ASIN/B002LZTKIA/?tag=dp-us-20

in after every receptacle install.

u/arv_foh · 1 pointr/livesound

It's possible. Go to a hardware store and buy one of these and check to see if the outlets are grounded. Just because the outlet is 3 prong doesn't necessarily mean the outlet is grounded. Also check to make sure nothing in your chain has the ground prong broken off, like a power strip or something before it gets to the wall.

http://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-50542-3-Wire-Receptacle/dp/B002LZTKIA

u/pancaaakes · 1 pointr/fixit

Once you've checked to see that the gas to the appliance is on...

Have you tried working the oven or broiler (if it has one)?

It sounds like it could be a gas valve issue with the stove/oven itself.

Further: You may want to consider testing the outlet that it's plugged in to with a receptacle tester. If the polarity is reversed on the outlet, the gas valve may not open, which is a safety feature. Sounds weird, but I've run in to that issue a handful of times.

Edit: Added further info.

u/Stompie · 1 pointr/HVAC

Typically as other people have stated generators run only the necessary systems. Usually only the refrigerator is considered a needed appliance in the backup generator world.


Not HVAC related but just because the outlet in the box is 3 prong doesn't mean it is actually a grounded outlet. If this is a major point for you then it'd be worth getting that checked out. A simple outlet tester will indicate if new wiring or wiring with a ground was actually run.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002LZTKIA?pc_redir=1395427616&robot_redir=1

u/adapt2 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

> Firstly, that ground wire must be sufficiently large

I am guessing I will have to measure the thickness of it with a caliper.

In terms of checking all the outlets to find which ones are truly grounded, would I use a tool like this?

u/480v_bite · 1 pointr/DIY

As far as the electrical goes, its easy to do but, for the love of God, turn the power off while working on it! Networking your house ain't worth your life!! Watch some YouTube videos on how to wire the the receptacle.

Buy this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002LZTKIA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1451424239&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=receptacle+checker&dpPl=1&dpID=51hlg2obNeL&ref=plSrch

After you wire the receptacle, turn the power on, and plug this in. It will show you if you made any mistakes. Just read the instructions.

The hardest part you're going to run into is getting from the crawl space to the attic. Try and find a plumbing drain. Plumbers generally cut the holes way bigger than needed and you can slide in beside them.

Another option is using a fireplace if you have one. The framing around it should be loose enough for you to fish wires down beside it.

The easiest thing you can do is run a PVC pipe on the exterior of the house in an inconspicuous spot and paint it to match your house.

Save yourself a million headaches by pulling a pull string along with your wires for subsequent runs. Twine is cheap.

Feel free to ask me anything else you might be curious about!

Source: am electrician.

u/ttreit · 1 pointr/livesound

My first thought is to get actual information on what outlets are on what circuits. That way you have a starting point for figuring out your best options.

This is pretty easy to do you just need access to the breaker panel and a circuit finder. Something like this.

As long as your doing it label each outlet you test (label tape, sharpie, whatever) with it's circuit number.

Even if you can only test the open circuits on/near the stage you'll have a base of information to start from.

u/ohgeetee · 1 pointr/homeowners

You're certain the fan is on same breaker? In my place, most of the breakers were labeled correctly, but i had a couple of outlets and switches that were tied to other breakers. Also, mine has switches and outlets separate. I believe I have upstairs outlets, upstairs lights, downstairs outlets, downstairs lights. I'm not sure what the norm is for this, but getting a little klein pen tester and tying your rooms/fixtures to their actual breakers in a google doc will be really helpful now and in the future.

u/toast_related_injury · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

doorbells are easy enough to handle, as long as the transformer is still good. the transformer converts your home's 120volt electricity to 12 volts (usually) via this large, fist sized looking block, usually located nearish to the breaker box.

doorbells are run in a low voltage loop. the power is supplied from the breaker box or a nearby junction box to the transformer. then it runs from the transformer in a big circle to the chime and the buzzer. when you press the doorbell buzzer, you're completing the circuit and it causes the chime to sound.

  1. turn off the power to the transformer, check with a voltage tester.

  2. unscrew buzzer or chime. you can do either one first. it doesn't really matter. just make sure you have a clamp or something like that hand. sometimes those little wires like to fall back into the wall. clamp the wires so that they don't.

  3. once either part is unscrewed from the wall, you'll see two contacts. usually it doesn't matter which wire connects to which contact, provided you get a standard two wire doorbell system. disconnect the two wires from the existing contacts.

  4. clean off the wires a little bit. they're probably dirty and oxidized. if they're really nasty looking, you can cut them back a little and strip the coating off the wire for some fresh copper.

  5. reattach the wires. you'll probably need a little screwdriver for this.

  6. i like to seal around the doorbell buzzer with some caulk. helps protect it from the elements a bit.

  7. attach the chime/buzzer back to the wall. some just fasten with screws. others have mounting brackets that fastened to the wall with anchors or something. then the actual faceplate of the chime/buzzer snaps on to that.

  8. turn your power back on at the breaker.

  9. test it out.

  10. act smug and cocky with your SO about how easily you completed this and never let him/her forget it by always saying "remember that time..."
u/echoskybound · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

You're still going to want to make sure nothing is live even after shutting breakers off. Definitely get one of these, lol. I've learned not to trust any of the electrical work in my house.

u/quadmasta · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

A properly installed switch never switches neutral. I've run into several fixtures with constant hot at the box. Get a non-contact voltage tester if you aren't comfortable with a multi-meter (or even if you are)
https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-NCVT-2-Non-Contact-Voltage/dp/B004FXJOQO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495817034&sr=8-3&keywords=non+contact+voltage+detector

u/sixpackremux · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I don't own one.

Would something like this work - https://www.amazon.com/Voltage-Protection-Klein-Tools-NCVT-2/dp/B004FXJOQO/

u/sennister · 1 pointr/videos

If you would rather go the Amazon route here is on.

http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-NCVT-2-Non-Contact-Voltage/dp/B004FXJOQO/

u/haaamper87 · 1 pointr/BMET

>an electrical safety tester

Is that like a Klein Non-Contact Voltage Tester to see if the circuit is still hot/energized?

https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-NCVT-2-Non-Contact-Voltage/dp/B004FXJOQO/

u/sticky-bit · 1 pointr/OSHA

Get a contact-less voltage detector amzn.com/B004FXJOQO

u/not12listen · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

In these scenarios, the next step I go to is testing the power supply.

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO/

You can test and prove every cable/connector in the entire system. Also, have you taken a good flash light and checked all of the capacitors on the motherboard to verify that none are leaking/bulging?

u/fufukittyfuk · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Does this happen with different games or just one?

The symptoms on the surface seem to suggest a GPU (hardware or drivers) is crashing and windows is resetting the display drivers. When windows does this it does not always succeed and takes the entire PC with it.

If temps all are ok, make sure the card is seated correctly (take it out and put it back in and pay attention to make sure everything is in all the way). Also make sure the PCIE power supply connectors are properly connected.

Also a bad power supply could do this, You can test for this using a power supply tester or a Multi meter.

I didn't notice the kernel power 41.

> "The kernel power event ID 41 error occurs when the computer is shut down, or it restarts unexpectedly. When a computer that is running Windows starts, a check is performed to determine whether the computer was shut down cleanly. If the computer was not shut down cleanly, a Kernel Power Event 41 message is generated."

This makes be think more inline with a bad PSU or Power related. Most quality PSU have a voltage out of range safety feature that if the output voltage is to low or high it will automatically turn off to prevent damage to the hardware.

--edit--

me english bad, me fix, me make english good.

also the ATX v2.2 voltage specs are +/- 5% on postive voltages and +/- 10% on negative voltages. ATX12V Power Supply Design Guide Version 2.2 section 3.2.1

Output | Range | Min. | Nom. | Max.
:-:|--:|--:|--:|--:|
+12VDC | +/- 5% | +11.40 | +12.00 | +12.60
+5VDC | +/- 5% | +4.75 | +5.00 | +5.25
+3.3VDC | +/- 5% | +3.14 | +3.30 | +3.47
-12VDC | +/- 10% | +10.80 | -12.00 | -13.20


Hope this info helps

u/ap7x944 · 1 pointr/buildapc

yeah pretty much. any tester will do but id recommend getting something like this as there wont be any confusion if the power supply is bad

u/My_Police_Box · 1 pointr/techsupport

It seems like it is ok. One good way to test the power output of a PSU is with a tester. One like this is nice to have on hand.

Or you could use software, such as HWiNFO. It can monitor your PSU as well as other aspects of your machine.

u/OldManGrimm · 1 pointr/buildapc

A $32 Dr. Power II will pay for itself if you do much building or custom cables. Learned this the hard way as well.

u/billythornbobton · 1 pointr/buildapc

You plug the cables in to the tester, so effectively testing both.
Something like this.

u/Anayalata · 1 pointr/techsupport

Well there's PSU testers you can buy for that purpose. Other than that I am unsure short of putting it into an entirely different computer. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005F778JO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=101E02BC34IN0&coliid=IRL5JWJC1GMC0

I would strip it down to the bare minimum (cpu, cpu fan, 1 stick of ram) and see if it powers on. If it does then you know it's one of the 'extras'. If it doesn't then 90%+ it's the PSU.

u/MSD0 · 1 pointr/pcmods

A psu tester is another option and is probably going to be easier to use.

u/BWC_semaJ · 1 pointr/buildapc

Personally I am going to try and avoid parts for his build because of not knowing exactly what he has.

You could get him zip ties, velcro strips, tool kit (just search computer tool kit on amazon), usb drive, DAC/AMP, nice router, custom mouse pad, nice pair of head phones, power supply tester, Electricity Usage Monitor, Electric Duster, Microfiber Cleaning Cloths, 99% Isopropyl Alcohol (rubbing alcohol),... I could keep on going but I think you get the idea. Hopefully when you post your build I'll come back to edit my comment.

u/TomN · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

That kit looks pretty good. I would also grab a cheap multimeter like this
http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity%C2%AE-Digital-Voltmeter-Ammeter-Ohmmeter/dp/B00B7CS3UY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1394073996&sr=1-1&keywords=multimeter

If you want to shop around looks at some of the stuff adafruit and sparkfun have

u/not_today_trebeck · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I use a multimeter similar to this, so I can test my batteries and coils. It's an overall handy tool to have.

u/nope_bye · 1 pointr/Multicopter

OP, you should consider getting a multimeter. I found one on amazon for just $11 with prime. You can use this to check resistance, voltage, and current. In this case, you could check to make sure you didn't bridge anything that wasn't supposed to be bridged. It's a tool you'll use often and keep for years.

u/omgucr · 1 pointr/fixit

Everything in your pictures seems fine. It looks like this side has the battery(power) components of the headphones. The other side likely contains the audio amp portion of everything.

You may have a bad connection on that side since the blue and brown(yellow) wires that connect to the speaker travel through a wire in the head band to the other side.

Here are some trouble shooting tips.

  • Open the other side of the headphone and look to see where the blue and brown wire end on the other side. Look for bad solder joints. The look like this.

  • Get a multimeter like this one to check for continuity from your headphone plug all the way up to the audio amp board that I suspect is on the other side of your headset.

  • If you don't get anywhere with the previous steps you can try the following to determine if you have a bad cable/connection or a bad amp circuit. Doing this could be risky and may damage your headphones more but it may be worth checking. With your headphone open and taken apart, plug your headphone in to an audio source and have it play. Gently tug, pull and massage on all of the cables that terminate on any board or circuit. Listen closely if the speaker starts working. This would be evedince of a bad cabel or solder joint. Continue by massaging the cord all the way from the head phone jack to the actual headset. Bend the cord back and forth intermittently, especially anywhere the cord starts, ends or flexes naturally during use. Again listen closely to see if the speaker cuts on when you do this.

    Good Luck

u/LittleHelperRobot · 1 pointr/buildapc

Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B7CS3UY/

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

u/anormalgeek · 1 pointr/buildapc

I would recommend picking one up. It's one of those things you don't realize how often you might use it until you have one. Also they're cheap.

Example: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B7CS3UY/

u/mastakebob · 1 pointr/solar

Getting a sunpower/enphase system installed in the next few months, will have the basic Envoy system installed so I can see production data. I want to also see data on my house consumption and export to grid. Installer recommended Sense.

Sense seems expensive and overkill (don't care about what appliance is drawing power, machine learning), would this device enable me to see consumption and export? Aeotec by Aeon Labs ZW095 ZW095-A Home Energy Meter Gen5, Small, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XD8WZX6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fUYuDbGC2Q2T5

I have a home automation hub with Zwave (hass.io) that can read and crunch the inputs from both the aeotec meter and the Enphase Envoy. My hope is that I can use the aeotec to see what power coming and going out, and combine that data with the Envoy production to see production, consumption, and export..

u/OptimusB · 1 pointr/homeautomation

$30?! I knew I shouldn’t have bought these:

Aeotec Home Energy Meter Gen5, Z-Wave Plus Smart Electricity Usage Monitor, Report Real Time Power Consumption, 2 Clamps, Each Detects up to 200 amps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XD8WZX6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5WvRBbZ09D7XQ

u/joey52685 · 1 pointr/teslamotors
u/will_work_for_twerk · 1 pointr/vandwellers

IMPRESSIVE!

We need to go deeper! But seriously, well done! so for a USB killawatt you could always use something like this. Do you have any plans to enclose it in some kind of a case?

u/ProdigiousPlays · 1 pointr/batteries

>Current will flow from the battery to power the device when it is on.
>

This I understand. Would the current be dropping because the device doesn't have the battery life to keep itself on to charge?

>Not totally sure, but it sounds like your multimeter has some function to measure how much energy has been put into the battery during charging? So if you measure this from a fully discharged battery to a full charge, it would give you the energy capacity of the battery.
>
It's one of these if you have any experience with them.

So as I thought, it's only measuring what should be going in. The only way to measure what's actually in the battery would be to use it to charge something else until it dies?

>I guess this might depend on what defines a "dead" battery. Its possible your battery can still hold some sort of a charge, but can no longer provide the voltage required to power your device.
>
>One thing you could do to determine if the issue is the battery or the device is to disconnect the battery. Then get a DC power supply to provide the nominal voltage of the battery to the device directly.

That is a good idea but I am not sure how to do that without a lot of temporary wiring. I believe at some point the ios was corrupted (or lost) and is causing the startup loop. A computer doesn't generate enough voltage to charge the iPad and the charging and connection port are shared. I guess I'll find out replacing the battery. Though I'm 99% certain that's the problem I'm more so interested in learning how to interpret what I'm seeing.

Thank you for all your help!

u/heatherlorali · 1 pointr/consolerepair

The Switch will only charge the Joycons if it is at a high enough battery percentage and/or is drawing enough power from the charger/dock. I recommend buying a meter that will check the power draw on the Switch. If it's not drawing normal charge speeds, that might be the cause. If it's normal, then it's a lot harder to say.

Just for clarification, you tried different Joycons to confirm that it's a flaw with the Switch, not the Joycons, correct?

u/QuirkyQuarQ · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

> but I'd ideally like to do whatever that guy in the video did, because whatever he did it works.

He probably had the parts on hand. To replicate what he did, you'll need 4 C-sized NiMH batteries at $18 plus a charger for $20.

It's difficult to estimate your power requirements because on top of the Pi/modem/i2c sensor, you'll have high-power IR leds, a camera, etc.

I recommend you build a prototype first, running from DC power, then get something like this USB meter, and let the prototype run for 12 hours or so at night. That will tell you the power usage, and in turn what kind of batteries or battery packs you need.

u/theninjaseal · 1 pointr/ElectricalEngineering

I do want to emphasize that I have no experience with that one specifically at all, it's just the first thing that popped up when I tried to find something like the one I have. Let me see if I can find the one I have.....


Edit:

PowerJive USB Voltage/Amps Power Meter Tester Multimeter, Test speed of chargers, cables, capacity of power banks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013FANC9W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_368azbWXG4GC0


My sister got me this one for Christmas and I haven't had any trouble with it. Seems accurate. Voltage matches the multimeter and the current matches what my phone reports when charging. The current measurement has two decimal places, so it should be within +/-5mA

u/mrBill12 · 1 pointr/DIY

As detailed elsewhere if the box is grounded you can use a 3-prong outlet grounded to the box. To test if the box is grounded, don’t use just any meter, use an electricians low impedance volt meter. Meters without low impedance may give false results for this test.

As detailed in another comment the breaker could also be changed to GFCI. Or the FIRST outlet in a circuit could be changed to GFCI where the rest of the outlets on the circuit are wired to the load terminals of this first outlet. With both of these options 3-prong outlets are allowed without the ground connected. There are caveats: 1) to be code compliment unground 3-prong outlets MUST be protected by GFCI AND labeled “No Equipment Ground” (these labels come in the box with GFCI’s) and 2) the down stream outlets wired without the ground wire connected will fail to trip using a plug in outlet tester with a GFCI test button (this is because they simulate a ground fault by bleeding a trace current to the non-existent ground). To properly test this type of circuit trip the GFCI with its own test button and verify downstream ungrounded outlet have no voltage.

The third and final option is code now allows you to run a separate green ground wire, but it must be connected to the ground bar of a sub-panel or the bonded combined neutral/ground bar in the main service panel. It can’t just connect to something like a water pipe.

u/notananthem · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Buy an outlet tester, turn off one breaker, test all the outlets/wired devices, label the breaker what everything is. First thing I did moving into my new house.

Edit- seriously tone/probe or outlet tester is totally doable for you even if you don't think you have home skills.

This: https://www.amazon.com/Receptacle-Tester-Klein-Tools-RT210/dp/B01AKX8L0M

Turn off one switch/breaker at the panel and then go to the area of the house that you guess is associated with that breaker if it isn't labeled- then just plug that thing into all the outlets. It'll light up if its still powered, and not light up if its connected to that breaker.

u/90sPopReference · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Ground issue. Please unplug your PC from the wall and run a longer extension cord from a grounded outlet. You can verify all outlets in your house with a simple outlet tester.

Here is one for 9 bucks:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AKX8L0M/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_4dBWDbDGMKGSS

Diagnose the situation first either with an electrician, or yourself ONLY IF YOU COMFORTABLE WITH THE DANGERS. The fix can be anything from the ground needing to be terminated, or the ground is just straight up not there and a new ground needing to be ran.

u/No_God_For_You · 1 pointr/NoStupidQuestions

You can get one of these to check all the outlets in your house to see which are protected by GFCI.

u/IceManYurt · 1 pointr/HomeRepair

I would start by picking up one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AKX8L0M/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_WN93DbKD4XSXV

And possibly a socket to Edison adapter and a ground lift and make sure hot neutral aren't reversed.

I would start there. I know as a kid playing with solder in LEDs you had to make sure positive and negative were aligned correctly or it would illuminate. But that was in DC, and your house is AC... So I don't know if reversed hot/nuteral would matter, but that is where I would start.

Also, are they dimmer switches and are the bulbs dimmable?

Edit: if you're going to do DIY electrical work, be careful. It's pretty simple, but has the potential to really hurt you. Pick up a non contact voltage tester. Turn off circuits at the service panel. Watch some You Tube videos on how to splice, if you're really high speed read some of the electrical code... And if you feel out of your depth, hiring a pro. Changing outlets, plugs sockets, switches and fixtures is fairly simple and just matching colors. Messing with three way and four way switches gets a bit more complex

u/Spaceforcejuan · 1 pointr/electricians

If you have a test plug like this, https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01AKX8L0M/ref=psdcmw_14244461_t1_B0012DHVQ0

You can check all the outlets. If there are junction boxes in your attic if you have one, you can check for loose connections if you can identify the circuits. Make sure your breaker is off and you have a hot stick before messing with anything even if your outlets are not working, you really don't want to hurt yourself from inexperience. If you can't find anything yourself, it's up to you if you want to call an electrician.

Price wise, our shop does 120USD an hour plus drive cost and material cost. Not sure about local prices where you are at. I would say it would be a minimum of one hour if it's a silly fix or up to 3 to 5 hours to run wire depending on how far the run is and how crammed the panel is. Hard to tell not being there but I wish you much luck and hope it's a very easy and inexpensive fix for ya!

u/HuweyII · 1 pointr/TeslaModel3

An iPhone will get hot when charging fast, that is pretty normal. So that might explain the iPhone getting hot.

Most USB memory sticks will get pretty warm or even hot when being written to for a long time. And the Tesla writes to them constantly it seems. You can test this by putting your USB stick into a computer and copying lots of data to it, keep the copy going for 15 minutes or so and it should heat up, assuming you used the right port and the data rate is high enough.

I assume you meant SSD Drive or USB Stick when you said Hard Drive. SSD's also get hot when written to for a long time.

So I think what you are seeing is normal. If you are worried, buy a cheap in-line USB tester and check the voltage on the USB port. Plug it into the Tesla and your device into the tester. Voltage should be close to 5v (±5% 4.750 - 5.250 VDC) all the time. Higher (and sometimes lower) voltage might damage a USB device. Though usually the out-of-range voltage has to be extreme for damage to happen.

Something like this one -- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D9Y6ZFW

u/saiyate · 1 pointr/USBC

no quality loss, I think your gonna be fine. I suggest buying one of these.

USB Voltage / amperage tester

u/randolphmcafee · 1 pointr/androidapps

I use
Eversame USB Digital Power Meter... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D9Y6ZFW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/Jay9018 · 1 pointr/powerbank

You could use a device like this.

Eversame USB Digital Power Meter Tester Multimeter Current and Voltage Monitor, DC 5.1A 30V Amp Voltage Power Meter, Test Speed of Chargers, Cables, Capacity of Power Banks-Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D9Y6ZFW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FKs2Bb5ENXJ69

I use these to test power banks quite often and it works well.

u/Explosive_Squirrel · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

Nice to know!

A handy tool for debugging current issues are these small current meters for USB. They can be had for quite cheap on eBay as well.

u/Spirko · 1 pointr/AndroidQuestions

This is a decent USB voltage/current meter that works for Quick Charge.
https://www.amazon.com/Eversame-Multimeter-Chargers-Capacity-Banks-Black/dp/B01D9Y6ZFW

Check different conditions (screen on/off) and different cables to see what affects the voltage (measured in volts, V) and delivered power (measured in watts, W). If the voltage is 5 V and the power is around 4 W or less, it's slow charging. If it's quick charging, you should see a higher voltage and more power.

u/wuhkay · 1 pointr/VizioTV

Couldn’t find any information either, but since you like to tinker, get one of these:

Eversame USB Digital Power Meter Tester Multimeter Current and Voltage Monitor, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D9Y6ZFW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_k0iVzb205TD52

I have one and it rocks.

u/intrglctcrevfnk · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

I've got a older eFest LUC V4 that I use to charge my 18650's (had a Nitecore before that) that also does the USB out thing.

Do you have a USB voltage reader? Like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01D9Y6ZFW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493382857&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=usb+voltage+meter&psc=1

Depends if the Nitecore has a regulating chip for the USB output. If it is just straight output in series with 2 18650's you'd have 8.4v when they are fully charged and about 6.4v when the batteries are fully depleted. Theoretically the output would spend most of its time at 7.4v (3.7x times 2) (Edit:So there has to be a voltage regulator on board. )but since you have a vape I suppose you know how batteries perform.

Back when I got into vaping regulated boxes were not a thing and we had to know ohms law and all that. Hard to believe that was only 4 years ago, the tech has come a long way from flashlight batteries and a tube!

I don't have 2 fully charged batteries right now but if I get a chance I'll configure mine and see what the output is. Charging the 2nd 18650 now...

u/AJ170 · 1 pointr/CarAV

I already have a DMM

u/SqBlkRndHole · 1 pointr/autorepair

You need a volt meter to test it. Pop your caps and check the fluid level. It should be above the lead core. Top them off with "distilled water" if needed. The battery is only 16 months old, should be under warranty. https://www.amazon.com.au/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage-Tester/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=multimeter&qid=1563499391&s=gateway&sr=8-1

u/pseudozombie · 1 pointr/vandwellers

My 92 e350 diesel struggled to start in the cold last weekend, and I thought it was the battery. I probed it and it was fully charged. So I just put it in 2nd gear and let it roll out of the driveway. The movement of the engine allowed it to turn over and I guess warmed it up, and then it started just fine.

So it may not be the battery, it may just be the cold. Diesels have a much harder time starting in the cold than gasoline engines. So, I'd recommend getting a voltmeter. When its not starting, check the voltage. If the voltage is 12.8, then its fully charged. If its down to 11.2, then its empty. I am not sure what voltage is required to start, probably around 12, maybe a little less.

This cheap one on amazon should do the trick: https://smile.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage-Tester/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1518214456&sr=8-3&keywords=voltmeter&dpID=51BVqQYiV1L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

If it is the battery, likely there is a power drain somewhere. Those can be very hard to track down, so the best option in that case is to disconnect the batteries. There are battery disconnect switches you can put in the engine compartment. Those are also super useful to not get your rig stolen, as you can make it hard to find / not obvious.

Or maybe its the battery. Look for a battery mechanic in your area. Often they will test your current battery for free, and my experience has been that they don't try to scam you.

u/windowpuncher · 1 pointr/wiiu

https://smile.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage-Tester/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1517966083&sr=8-4&keywords=multimeter

Buy a multimeter. Then you have one when troubleshooting anything else electronic. Also good for testing car batteries and alternators and stuff. Don't shock yourself though.

But yeah, you can test the battery to see if it's actually dead, might have just not charged. Can also test the charger to see what it's outputting and if negative/positive are actually on the correct cables.

u/Monkitail · 1 pointr/motorcycle

> so I am back to the same problem again a day after getting a new battery. It may be the charging system them
awww.amazon.com/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_VZPFDbGK9FQ5V

u/sjv7883 · 1 pointr/hometheater

Yes, this. You can use a [digital multimeter] (https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Volt-Diode/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1495404991&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=digital+multimeter&psc=1) to test the impedance. I'd recommend doing this if you are planning on using the speakers that this connector belongs to.

u/rdawg16 · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

I just got a multimeter so can i use it to check the capacitance? and do i have to desolder to check it ?

Edit : actually it seems like the mutlimeter that i got doesn't have the capacitance feature
https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage-Tester/dp/B01ISAMUA6/

u/RedOctobyr · 1 pointr/smallengines

Sure, and they are an excellent troubleshooting tool to have around. One example, on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage-Tester/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=multimeter&qid=1559002606&s=gateway&sr=8-3

If there's a Harbor Freight near you, they frequently have coupons for their cheap multimeter for free, or close to it, if you buy something else.

u/w00tiSecurity_weenie · 1 pointr/homelab

So i think my multimeter doesnt have enough ranges to test the variety of different settings on.



i ended up giving up. I dont think my multimeter does is able to read the different sizes or idk but I am getting a lot of misleading things and my head hurts from organizing by color. Can anyone recommend if one of these will be good?


  1. INNOVA 3320 Auto-Ranging Digital Multimeter

  2. AstroAI Digital Multimeter with Ohm Volt Amp and Diode Test

  3. Crenova MS8233D Auto-Ranging Digital Multimeter


u/Dakota66 · 1 pointr/askcarguys

Somewhere there is either a connector, a soldered connection, or a crushed/broken wire that is intermittently making connection. If you're handy with a multimeter this is the one I use, it's good and cheap and have some basic hand tools you can start chasing wires over the weekend.

I don't mean to sound condescending, but there aren't any wires in the floorboard that'll cause you trouble, if at all.

General troubleshooting will go a long way here. Does it work with just the blower motor or is it the whole unit? i.e. does heat work but not AC? Do the fans work on different settings? Does defrost work (assuming it's part of the same knob/row of buttons)

Potentially your brake pedal could be hitting the wiring loom, but if it only happens while you're actually slowing the car down, that could be jostling the wires as well.

If you aren't handy, best to go have it looked at. Had a similar problem with radio wiring and eventually the wire started shorting and blowing fuses. It'd usually just kill the dash and instrument cluster but it killed my whole car a few times because it blew the main fuse.

u/oomchu · 1 pointr/AskEngineers

If you’re going to go with option 1, I would recommend buying the book first to see what parts you need. You also might want to consider just buying the parts you need from some place like mouser electronics or sparkfun.

This meter will probably suit your needs better:

https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage-Tester/dp/B01ISAMUA6

u/Popshotzz · 1 pointr/Fixxit

It's a good sign they tested it and some battery places like that do indeed set them up properly. I'd call and tell them your situation and see if they can test the battery they sold you.


I'd pick up a cheap meter. They can be found for less than $15 and have many uses. For most things, a basic cheap one is fine.



https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage-Tester/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1521913651&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=dmm&psc=1


edit: Make sure you aren't turning the key too far counter-clockwise and leaving the tail light on (parking light) Not sure if that model has that built in to the key switch and it is not uncommon to have that happen)

u/Raphan · 1 pointr/buildapc

Thanks for taking the time to reply so thoroughly.

The system didn't start at all today at several attempts.

>Third, if too much power is being consumed, then components of the power 'system' turn off power. Power is either completely good or is defective - ie causes crashes or shutdowns. Insufficient does not change the speed of processing - does not cause slowing.

That makes sense, which could indicate I either have two problems (which I would guess is rare?) or it's not the PSU. Could then be a motherboard problem. The USB devices drawing too much power so it doesn't start (crash) and crashing during gameplay (high intensity, high power, crash) could mean PSU. But the clock slowing would seem to contra-indicate that.

>Four, move on to suspects. What do system (event) logs report?
>Any problems identified in the Device Manager? In both cases, what are the numbers reported by those messages.

The PC is no longer turning on so I can't answer those. I looked at the device manager and didn't see any issues. I don't have any experience with event logs and didn't look at them.

I ordered a 4 pack of CMOS battery since they are so cheap and partially indicated; if that doesn't completely fix the issues getting a multi-meter sounds like a good step.

>BTW a volt meter will provide far more useful information than a new PSU. But that means you must request instructions and perform a 'so long' two minutes of labor. Those resulting numbers mean the fewer who actually know how hardware works can define the problem long before replacing anything. No honest recommendation is possible without those numbers.

If issues remain I will look into getting a voltmeter: is this one and these instructions reasonable?

u/Tomusina · 1 pointr/electricians

I bought a multimeter - sorry to ask, but how do I safely use this thing? I know the very basics of it but I'm still nervous to use it. Can the water be on? (I only feel the current when the water is on)

Link to what I bought:

https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage-Anti-Burn/dp/B01ISAMUA6

u/DetroitHustlesHarder · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Note to self: look into a multimeter.

Edit: Would this be sufficient for around-the-house use?

So here's a question... in the future, with a wiring setup like this, would it have accomplished the same thing (if I only had one switch controlling both the light and fan to nut the fan's black and blue to the ceilings black and then nut off the extra blue from the ceiling? Would that accomplish the same thing?

u/Max_Kas_ · 1 pointr/CafeRacers

Buy a multimeter and start going through each connection. Check continuity throughout. You said you changed the ignition coils? Try putting the old ones back on and see if that works.
If it still doesn't then check to make sure the new spark plugs aren't the problem.

u/yuckypants · 1 pointr/SmartThings

This one is more than enough, plus it's dirt cheap. The one I got was the most popular at the time, but it's no longer available (and not as cheap). These do the same thing anyway.

You can't trust that the old switches were wired correctly, so what you've been doing is an insanely bad idea. In fact, you always test every wire, just in case. Some shoddy electrician could have used a black wire for traveler and a red wire for neutral!

Oh, one more key bit of advice, if you want to find the line/load quickly (on a primary switch), pull the switch out of the wall, but don't disconnect power. Make sure power is off to the receptacle, ground your multimeter (I usually use an outlet's ground), and test for power. The one with power - that's line coming from the fuse panel. The dead one is load (that's the one that goes to the fixture).



Good luck and if you have any more questions, I'm here to help! Also, I should add, I'm a total noob also. I started with smartthings maybe 6-7 months ago, and before that, never even attempted a switch install. Hell, I still refresh myself with the videos, but I can almost do them without looking now.

u/skylarmt · 1 pointr/nexus5x

It's a good investment, you can test batteries, check if an outlet is powered, and all kinds of useful stuff. Here's one for $11.99.

u/BigRobotBil · 1 pointr/dreamcast

I do, however I haven't really used one outside of checking if power outlets are functioning. At the risk of sounding inept, what would the points be to check, and the setting on the multimeter?


One thing that I did notice, that may or may not be related, was that after screwing in the DreamPSU, it became somewhat cockeyed. I checked the install video and the PDF supplied on the site, and it didn't look as cockeyed as mine did. Would bad contact like that be a factor?

u/LowkeyCamo · 1 pointr/Multicopter

I don't have the ability to mesure the current sensing input. Would ths multimeter work? And what would I need to do? Thanks for your help. I probably should have just bought one a long time ago, but I've never needed one before.

u/Rd59 · 1 pointr/prius

-Even metric sockets/wrenches from 8-14 mm
-#2 Phillips screwdriver
-flat blade screw driver
(All above are used for removal and disassembly of the battery)
-multi-meter (for testing battery voltage and checking to make sure you're not grabbing a hot lead) You can get one super cheap at Walmart. You don't need a $100 meter for most basic multi meter usage
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ISAMUA6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1502035847&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=multimeter+digital&dpPl=1&dpID=51BVqQYiV1L&ref=plSrch
-balance charger (for rebalancing the batteries)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017Y2G4Y2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502036066&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=imax+b6ac+v2&dpPl=1&dpID=51GvA3h-MNL&ref=plSrch
-18 gauge wire (I made my own wire harnesses)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LZRV0HV/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1502036364&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=18+gauge+wire&dpPl=1&dpID=51CpIxqIWbL&ref=plSrch
-wire strippers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000OQ21CA/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502036896&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=wire+strippers&dpPl=1&dpID=415oINm8uRL&ref=plSrch
-spade connectors
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01B1753K2/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1502036854&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=red+spade+connector&dpPl=1&dpID=31HVegxklVL&ref=plSrch
-banana plugs
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00APVQZ8U/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1502036751&sr=8-13&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=banana+plugs

u/sodaliteful · 1 pointr/VanLife

Etekcity Digital Multimeter, Amp Volt Ohm Voltage Tester Meter with Diode and Continuity Test, Dual Fused for Anti-Burn https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9QW620/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_58ooDb6BX0X3X

should this one do the job ? and are most wires connected to a fuse box or breaker box in the van? i assume that’s where i would disconnect them. the Van i have didn’t come with a manual so i wonder where it would be

I have a 88 Chevy g20 hightop

u/KRONie · 1 pointr/Multicopter

check this out https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5G622WDZaHg

I highly suggest you pick yourself up a cheapo multimeter if you haven't already, they're super handy for this hobby and will save you a lot of time troubleshooting electrical issues.

Im not exactly sure how X220 is wired but what you want to do is make sure the (usually) yellow wire that carries the feed from camera to VTX is unbroken.

Assuming your camera connects directly to VTX:
Basically put the probes on each side of the yellow video signal wire between camera and vtx. If everything is OK the multimeter will beep. If multimeter doesn't beep then that means the connection is broken and VTX is not getting the video signal from camera, and you should resolder or replace the wire entirely depending on the issue.

If you have some sort of OSD (or flight controller with OSD):
Test the yellow wire between camera(video Out) and flight controller(video In), and then the yellow wire between flight controller(video Out) and vtx(video In). And then check continuity between the video In and video Out on your flight controller to make sure the OSD chip didnt crap out.

If you did all of the above and multimeter is beeping in all cases and the video feed is still black then more than likely the camera is bad.

u/wafflejock · 1 pointr/linuxquestions

Sorry lots of electronics technical stuff I just spat out there... this video might help

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HWA9WqSEjg8

The issue is it's a bit of "chicken and egg" problem, you need a powerful enough supply (high enough amp output) to make sure the load has as many amps as it will draw if the power supply can't supply enough current then your current you measure will be that limit instead of what the device actually wants to draw. If the power supply isn't able to supply enough amps for a given load (a device drawing current like the raspi) then it may overheat or shut off to protect itself or switch on and off depending on the power supply design.

Regarding a bench power supply this video shows how to DIY and compares with bought version and shows how they work:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wI-KYRdmx-E

Basically any multi-meter can measure voltage and amperage:
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Multimeter-MSR-R500-Electronic-Multimeters/dp/B01N9QW620/

For higher current stuff or measuring AC current without hooking the meter physically into the circuit can use a clamp meter like this instead:
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Multimeter-MSR-C600-Auto-Ranging-Multimeters/dp/B00NWGZ4XC/

^^ second one also does auto-ranging so it works out what the right unit is to show you is based on the power going through it (shows mV or V or A and mA or milli-ohms, ohms, kilo-ohms, and mega-ohms depending on what you're measuring)

A simpler video just covering the whole concept of "load" and current here too (youtube suggestions did a good job)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxkVxi9P0EA

u/random12356622 · 1 pointr/Dashcam

Low voltage cut off feature, part of most hardwiring kits.

Step 1: Figure out if your dash cam is Mini USB, or Micro USB.

Micro USB looks like most cellphone chargers.

Mini USB looks like a box.

Step 2: Figure out what type of fuses your vehicle uses: Mini, Mini low profile common. Micro 2, Micro 3, ATO less common.

Tap a fuse, and all fuses should match your vehicle.

Step 2: Decide: Cheap or Expensive hardwire kit

  • Cheap kits have flaws ($10 USD) - Short cable lengths (that little black box will end up on your dashboard), Lacks 2nd 5 amp fuse for tap a fuse (purchasable at any automotive store,) Vulnerable to cold (Once car warms up it is fine.) Make sure there is an Inline fuse (that little black tube) it is a safety device in case of a serious accident/fire. Low voltage Cut off feature: (Not Adjustable/Preset) works for most vehicles most of the time, Voltage only.

  • Expensive kits have less/no flaws ($24 USD) (Adjustable) Voltage/Timer based.

    Hardwire the dash cam to an ignition only fuse.

    Do not use: Airbags/Ignition computer/Security system/Headlights/High voltage/Hard to replace/Safety/expensive parts.

    Most hardwire to cig lighter (as it is often ignition only) or Ignition key.

    There is a device: Fuse tester light ($6 USD) this can be used to identify always on, ignition only, fuses, or you could get a Multimeter ($9 USD) and do the same thing.

    ---

    My personal opinion is Aukey is a bad copy of A119 variants. A119 has a specific hardwiring kit

    A119 hardwiring kit ($10 USD) Which is superior to the cheap kit in some ways (able to use ignition coil to decide when on/off as it is 3 wire instead of 2 wire.
u/_Hugh_Manatee · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

My Etekcity has gotten the job done so far, definitely less than $40.

I'm a firm believer in the concept of buying a cheap tool until you wear it out (if you do). Wearing out a tool indicates the frequency with which you use it, and also that you need something built tougher to last longer. Once you wear out the Etekcity, go with a Fluke. As far as I know, they're basically industry standard.

u/IrisaNolan88 · 1 pointr/techsupport

Sounds like the powersupply is tripping. Most PSU's have a type of breaker in them to protect the system, this isn't usually tripped by wall power but by a power problem in the system itself. It is also possible if the power is really bad (brown outs) it is/has damaged the system. You can buy a multimeter pretty cheap from amazon or get one at walmart. https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Multimeter-MSR-R500-Electronic-Multimeters/dp/B01N9QW620/ $10 for voltage testing only. Also, are there high current items on the same circuit? i.e. High powered Microwave (1000w+), Air Conditioner, they can cause dips in the voltage that over time could cause problems.

u/vinylontubes · 1 pointr/vinyl

Get one that can check continuity. Continuity is continuous flow electrons through wiring. I bought this one for $10.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9QW620

You want to test the connections to the RCA terminations. RED and WHITE wires are the center post on the RCA. GREEN is the barrel of the connection on the Red RCA. Blue is the barrel of the connection on the White RCA. Specifically, you are looking for see if there is a short. This would be indicative of continuity being crossed in the wires. Specifically, hum will occur if you get cross polarity. So you should as an example, only have continuity from the GREEN wire to the barrel of the Red Connector. If you also have continuity to the post, you likely have a broken solder joint in the RCA. Or you have a broken wire in the tonearm. You are doing diagnostics, you'll have to use your brain to actually figure out the proper fix. I will state that terminating a new RCA plug to a turntables wiring can be tough. There are very small wires. You'll need a really good wire stripper for the positive wires. There are very few strands of wire in a tonearm conductor, so you really can't afford to break any of them. I've done it and I'm better at mechanical than I am at electrical stuff. So, it can be done. But you have to be patient. If you don't thing you have the right tool, it's good chance you don't. The wire is generally something like 30AWG. So look for a pair with 20AWG - 30AWG. Typically, house hold wire strippers only go to 18AWG. Don't even try to use ones you have lying around. The one's I've linked might work.

20-30 gauge wire strippers

u/erleichda_archiving · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Ok, if you plan to build more, you don't have to invest a lot... AMAZON has some for under $15. Worth having around. The continuity testing is the setting above OUT and below 200 V~ on that model. It is about at 5 O'Clock. Others will have the same symbol somewhere. When a connection is made it beeps.

But yeah, that jiggling the cable and the keys work is odd. If you get a multimeter, you could also test each connection on the PM to see if there are any shorts between posts that are next to each other... sometimes if we are too generous with the solder it could flow between posts under the PM. Not common but possible. Odd it would be keys in different rows and columns if that is the case though... but these are the things I do to troubleshoot.... and don't feel too bad... even if you do everything right with these things there can be small issues that come up. I have a Gherkin right now that the bottom right 5 keys are not activating... they did work on my first flash and now they don't... I had just built it and tested it before putting the bottom plate on... once the bottom plate went on the bottom right keys stopped... I am hoping I just activated a layer toggle but I have not had time to troubleshoot it yet.

Did you try a different cable? The PM can be tight when new so sometimes it might feel like it is in all the way when it it not.

If none of that helps, can you post close ups of the PM from the top, and all four sides... try to make them as high res and clear as possible.

u/rawfuls1 · 1 pointr/electricians

Yeah, I have a multimeter.
I can swap 2-wire receptacles no problem, something about GFCI scares me- more wires to mess up, I suppose.

Gets me nervous to pull the outlet out and leave the power on- but I suppose I can test with the probes without removing the outlet from the box.

I've never tested AC power with my multimeter- just DC projects, but I imagine it is just anything on AC setting(s).
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-MSR-R500-Multimeter-Electronic-Continuity/dp/B01N9QW620/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1503503420&sr=8-7&keywords=multimeter

Using this guy, it'd just be the 200V setting on the top right

u/chuckle_butt · 1 pointr/techsupport

Lol. Chuckle Butt has been in your same shoes before! Folks call it different things. https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Multimeter-MSR-R500-Electronic-Multimeters/dp/B01N9QW620

And then can test it https://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/lessons/electronics/understanding-dc-power-supplies/

It's fairly common. Worth at least asking around.

u/revengeofbigd · 1 pointr/electronics

You could use an AC Line Splitter to separate the conductors of an AC cable:

Extech AC Line Splitter

u/MrRollboto · 1 pointr/pics

I wonder if you could attach a clamp meter to that thing. You wouldn't need one of these

u/Some1-Somewhere · 1 pointr/u_VanillaSnake21

If you open up the appliance, you can probably find individual wires. Or in the box behind your socket, or in the switchboard, or use a line splitter.

You could also get a kill-a-watt or something.

u/Seanybonbon · 1 pointr/engineering

What are you calling a line splitter? Google is showing me these, but that doesn't make sense to me with your plug/cord/cable on each end not being CE comment. These don't have cords or cables.

u/Anatolios · 1 pointr/mildlyinteresting

You can always use something like this.

u/proxpi · 1 pointr/livesound

I have been through the exact same thought process... and you probably don't want to get a clamp meter.

Turns out, you can't just pop it around a power cable and find out how much power it's drawing. You need to be able to clamp it around ONE of the conductors inside the cable. If it's clamped around both conductors, the reading will be canceled out. http://total-automation.in/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/Fluke_Clamp_meter_319_correct_usage.png

You would need to insert something like this http://amzn.com/B0000YHN9W into the circuit, which you obviously can't do live. This means you totally negate the advantage of a clamp meter over something like a Kill-a-watt.

u/SickZX6R · 1 pointr/talesfromtechsupport

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-40508-Multimeter-Resistance-Transistor/dp/B00066ZZO4/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1497462745&sr=8-6&keywords=multimeter

This one isn't even $8 shipped and works fine for "is there voltage or not". Hell, it was actually reasonably accurate for the price. I used this exact meter for 2 years, even after I ran it over once with a Grand Prix and taped it back together, until I bought myself a Fluke.

u/PageFault · 1 pointr/USBC

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB-C#Cable_wiring

Not sure exactly what you are going for, but one of the reds and the tin might do it. Just don't try it while connected to anything you care about, and don't start a fire.

If you are not going to look up the USB-C specifications, at least use a resistor so you don't create a short. I have no idea if it's standard design to handle a short. (I think USB-C cables are suppsed to have a small board with resistors and other shit in the connector.... Don't try to use a surface mount resistor though. Go buy or scavange a through-hole. Ideally you would look up which one, if any, you will need, but any is safer than none.)

Also, if you are going to play around with this, buy a multimeter and learn how to use it. A multi-meter can tell you which wires are hot, plus other shit you will learn about.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00066ZZO4

u/nebson10 · 1 pointr/projectors

If you are lucky, then the problem is with the power supply. Do you have a multimeter? You can get a cheap one on Amazon for $6:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00066ZZO4

If you open up the projector and post some pictures of the inside, I can give you some troubleshooting instructions that might help.

u/Unknowhu · 1 pointr/Guitar

Ohmmeters are relatively inexpensive compared to heads and speakers.
example

They are simple to use. set the rotary switch to 200 ohms, plug a speaker cable into the jack on the back of the speaker cab, and place the probes on the plug at the free end of the cable. The meter will display the resistance of the cab. Typically, the reading you get will be 75% of the impedance of the cab.

u/urist81 · 1 pointr/fixit

Yep, just start with the basics before you get more complicated. Make sure you have power, then follow power along until it's not there, and figure out why. If power is going everywhere and the HU still won't work, it's busted or has a blown fuse.

A test light is cheap and easy to use, just make sure it'll work with 12 volt DC. A multimeter is much more versatile and not too expensive. I have this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00066ZZO4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and it works OK for a cheap thing. For basic testing, at least.

u/TreborEnglish · 1 pointr/vandwellers

Step one: disconnect the isolator cable from the starter battery.

Step 2: find or become a person who understands the electric system you want and has the tools to diagnose what you have. Note, the 12.9 volts on the isolator box or document doesn't make your starter battery have 12.9 volts.

If you get a meter, separate your 2 systems, post here the voltages of the two there will be help.
Harbor Freight has a meter like this one except red
I have a coupon for it free. It comes with enough instructions to measure your battry voltage.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00066ZZO4

u/rezachi · 1 pointr/motorcycles

Doesn't have to be that much. I use the one I linked below, it came with a $20 stereo wiring kit I bought at Walmart in like 2004. If you're going to do your own work on a bike it's not a bad tool to have and will save the cost of itself the first time it points you away from replacing a part that tests within spec.

Linky

If I were to buy one today I think I'd pay a little more for more quality, but this guy has gotten the job done which is why I haven't replaced it.

u/GraniteGray · 1 pointr/Tools

Yeah, it’s a lot. I got a T5600. I do commercial maintenance, which includes electrical work, but I’m am not an electrician.

Fluke T5600 Electrical Voltage, Continuity and Current Tester
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006Z3GZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_rJQkDbAQ57VWN

u/WellThatsAwkwrd · 1 pointr/IBEW

https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Electrical-Voltage-Continuity-Current/dp/B0006Z3GZU/ref=mp_s_a_1_21?keywords=fluke+multimeter&qid=1567090794&s=gateway&sprefix=fluke&sr=8-21


This style of meter is pretty convenient. You can put one of the probes so it sits out of the meter so you can hold the meter while also testing instead of having to set the meter on something or have someone hold it

u/queso805 · 1 pointr/GoRVing

The Fluke T-5 is my go to for most stuff around the house. Does what it sounds like you are looking for. Easy to use, takes abuse. It’s also my go to at work unless I need to really get into stuff. Then I grab a bigger Fluke.

u/coogie · 1 pointr/electricians

This might be overkill for a person who doesn't use it on a daily basis but this is what most electricians I know use: https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Electrical-Voltage-Continuity-Current/dp/B0006Z3GZU/

u/MushCalledJOE · 1 pointr/electricians

there is a t5-600, same tester but does up to 600volts instead of 1000. (Which you wont need) its $90 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006Z3GZU/ref=twister_B06W57QS6F?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

u/WhatUpO · 1 pointr/electricians

The fluke T600 is all I’ve needed so far ( I’m a 1st year apprentice working service in commercial/industrial settings) the only two cons that will eventually push me off to buying one of the pricier Flukes down the line are 1. It’s amp-probe horns are 1/2” wide so I can’t fit it around the thicker feeder wires in most panels and it doesn’t measure DC voltage (which I have yet to need to do, I have a $14 multimeter for that if it ever pops up) aside from those two things the t600 the goto meter for both my journeyman and I. If it gets lost or stolen it’s not terribly expensive but it’s also not so inexpensive that you sacrifice the quality that you need. According to my journeyman don’t worry about “true RMS” unless your going to buy an expensive “big boy” meter.

Here’s a link to the one I bought. Keep your eye out for “damaged package returns” typically that just means someone opened the box and decided to return it and it knocks $10-$15 off the price because the box isn’t “pretty”. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006Z3GZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ORAPAb4KD9882

u/ZoidbergRush · 1 pointr/techsupport

So basically digital only?
So will this be a good choice? INNOVA 3320 Auto-Ranging Digital Multimeter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EVYGZA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_o0TEybZY2V8B1

u/garagio · 1 pointr/diyelectronics

Not really worth it with prices for real multimeters starting from from literally $0 and decent ones under $20 (when on sale).

u/BSandLies · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I've heard good things about this one http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA as an entry-level unit. Unlike the HF one, it is auto-ranging so a little more beginner friendly.

If your budget allows, get yourself a Fluke. If you're only scraping by, a Harbor Freight one will get you started.

u/Tudius · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I have this one and it works great.

u/westom · 1 pointr/buildapc

Yes - major. A digital meter provides three digit numbers. An example:
https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1510587688&sr=8-6&keywords=digital+volt+meter&dpID=41CeZkP6ksL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

These are available in Sears. In stores that also sell hammers and auto repair tools. In Walmart for maybe $18. In Harbor Freight sometimes for only $6.

No results can exist if you do not obtain (request) the second item. Second item (instructions) says what to do.

u/backlumchaam · 1 pointr/audiophile

Lady Ada sums it up nicely: http://www.ladyada.net/learn/multimeter/ I will say I disagree with her/Bob Pease's comments on the usefulness of a temperature probe. I had an apartment once with an oven that lacked markings on the control knob. A sharpie and my multimeter with thermocouple fixed that problem. 8D

They are mostly a commodity item at this point, unless you got Fluke money (I got a used Fluke 89-IV for ~$175 on eBay a few years ago, score).

I'd think this one should work well: http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA/

u/skookum1 · 1 pointr/cars

That is overkill for what you need. You can normally find them for under $10 bucks at harbor freight. Parts places would have some, but might bend you over for one. If you want a nice one for the money this is the one I have:

http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1311290504&sr=8-2

Also, you do not need a test light if you have a multimeter, you can set it to audible continuity test and it will beep if you have power.

u/SexlessNights · 1 pointr/ElectricalEngineering

Gotcha.

Go pick up an arduino kit, a few boards, an iron and solder.

The arduino kit will help with the physical electrical aspect, resistors, leds, servos, positive and negative, and it help with the theory/text book stuff such as amps, ohms, voltages etc.

Pick up a multimeter and look up how to test resistance , voltages, conductivity.

You can practice the soldering by putting led and resistors on a board. The arduino has tons of material for simple projects that include the code. So if the coding part doesn’t interest you, just copy the example
Code and build the circuit on the included breadboard. Then move the circuit into a blank soldering board

And make sure to research any questions instead of just asking someone who knows the answer. The reason I suggest research on your own first is there’s a lot to learn in the tech industry. The more you read the more you’ll familiarize yourself with key words, go to forums, and terminology.

u/IWannaMakeStuff · 1 pointr/arduino

Oboy, I'm probably the wrong person to ask. However, /u/BriThePiGuy recommends Joe Knows Electronics boxes, and /u/NeoMarxismIsEvil recommends the following:

> I would order some cheap assortment kits from people on aliexpress. These are the sort that come with like 10 of most common values of resistor, capacitor, etc.

> Other stuff:

> - WeMos d1 mini or mini pro
> - small i2c OLED displays
> - small LCD display
> - tacswitches (buttons)
> - SPDT switches
> - 74HC595 and 74HC165 shift registers
> - either bidirectional logic level shifter modules or mosfets and resistors needed to make them
> - 7 segment led displays (individual)
> - 8x8 led matrices
> - various environmental and physics sensors (often come as a kit of 20+ different modules)
> - extra breadboards
> - jumper wires
> - male and female header strips (for modules that lack pins)
> - cheap breadboard power supplies
> - voltage regulators (both LDO ICs and buck converter)
> - possibly some 4xAA or 4xAAA battery holders
> - trim pot assortment

> Those are just ideas. Some things like 7 seg led digits are pretty cheap and worth having a few of but not terribly important if you have a real display of some sort.

I personally like the assortment of bits I got in my Sparkfun Inventor's Kit, but found that I wanted more of the following:

u/claspinfo · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

Thanks for the thorough answer! I really appreciate the help! I don't have any tools unfortunately but I can get them. Would this be a good voltmeter? (Innova 3320)
So to confirm, I would connect the voltmeter to the crankshaft sensor and test whether there is any output? I can also rent a fuel gauge and try your second suggestion. I'll keep you posted. Thanks so much again!

u/expiredgoatmeal · 1 pointr/GAAB350

do you think the higher soc voltage affects ram overclocking? with +0.00 SoC (1.15 with a multimeter), GFX SoC at 1.175 and DRAM at 1.38 I could get 3066mhz, c14 stable (haven’t tried lowering voltages).

have you tried measuring with a multimeter to make sure that HWINFO is accurate? the more results we have the better.

copied from another comment:

the only way to know the actual voltage is to go in and check it with a multimeter. something like this should work just fine for the job. you'll want to take off your case's back panel, put your PC on some gpu load like furmark or firestrike or something, and put one multimeter lead on one circled pin and one lead on the other (if it's negative just flip the leads around) if you've never used a multimeter before, it's easy---just put the red in the red, the black in the black, and set the dial to what's in green.
be careful not to short the two pins together, though.

u/fastbiter · 1 pointr/EDC

That's a great one too, cheap, reliable, moderately fast auto ranging. I wouldn't use it for measuring high current/voltage but for hobbyist purposes it's great.

http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419118140&sr=8-1&keywords=multimeter

u/Kiraisuki · 1 pointr/Gameboy

For the multimeter, I have this one and it works perfectly fine. That module you linked won't work, though. That mudole's module's minimum input is 4V, and the Pocket runs on 3V with fresh batteries. Something more like this module would work. I could be wrong though, as I've never done this mod; I just shoved a lithium-ion battery into my Pocket and it works great.

Also, going down the rabbit hole is really fun! I started with the backoight backlight mod, then I did a prosound, then a USB rechargeable battery, then a bass boost, then an amplifier, and I'm debating doing a bivert, though with how little space is left after the preceding mess, I probably can't. :P

EDIT: Wow I butchered the spelling of "module"

EDIT2: And the spelling of "backlight"

u/flat4gt30 · 1 pointr/RBA

This is concerning, the nominal voltage range for an 18650 is 3.6-3.7 and the maximum voltage on a full charge might hit closer to 4.3v. What charger are you using, and what volt meter.

I would still recommend picking up a true multi meter, it dosen't have to be a fluke or a klein, just something that gives an accurate reading.

u/irreligiosity · 1 pointr/CarAV

Your post needs a little clarification. When you say voltmeter people are thinking about a digital multimeter. Since you mentioned it has a switched connection I'm assuming you're talking about a permanent fixture in your car that displays your battery's voltage?

26 gauge wire is very small - you would solder it to another wire generally. Strip back about 1/4" of insulation on the wire your connecting to and strip back about 1" of insulation on the 26 gauge wire. Then wrap the exposed part of the 26 gauge wire around the 1/4" exposure a few times and solder it then either shrink wrap or electrical tape the connection up. No need to use butt connectors.

u/Heath24Green · 1 pointr/Fixxit

You can use nay 12v battery you'd like to that can supply the cca (cold cranking amps) to the motor to get it started, I have a designated large car battery to do this.

I wouls strongly suggest that you invest in a multimeter of some sort. I do not own the one linked but based on the reviews it can't be that bad for the price. and see what the voltage of the battery is, if it is above 11v I would consider the battery to be salvageable and try to recharge it. if not, yes I would get a new battery. Just know that while you are troubleshooting the bike that you should have a way to charge the battery. I used to just hook up leads from my car battery to my bike to do the testing; relying on the alternator of the ca to get the battery charged as I drove it.

Yes, a good place to start would be the battery, next I would test for spark: take the spark plug cap off, unbolt the plug, put the cap backon and ground the plug to the engine by holding threads up to the engine case (bare metal). and then try turning on the bike looking for small spark jumping at the tip. That should be good if he said it was running sporadically. then, again I would assume the carb is the main problem.

u/throwaway_for_keeps · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

If you can afford a $300 3D printer, you can afford a $20 multimeter.

u/apanthropy · 1 pointr/CarAV

Nothing wrong with those components... how about a pair of these guys and one of these so they don't meet the same fate..

u/ephekt · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I have this one, but you don't need to spend more than $20 on one. Make sure you take the inherant resistence in your leads into account when you test your RDA.

http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1420433664&sr=8-4&keywords=volt+ohm+meter

u/Robathome · 1 pointr/aquaponics

You'd be surprised a) how easy it is to use Arduino, and b) how helpful the online community is. The nice thing about Arduino is that the complexity remains the same, regardless of how many sensors you add, provided you have enough expansion breakout board.

For a first step, I would buy a starter kit and a cheap soldering iron and a half-decent multimeter and just start making little projects, like light sensors and temperature sensors and making those projects both wireless and online.

After that, it's just a matter of interfacing the larger, higher-voltage components (like pumps and valves) with the lower-voltage Arduino. This is easily accomplished with a relay, which is also useful for electrical isolation between the two subsystems.

Start small. I would recommend making an Arduino into a timer, and then using the timer to control a pump. Then add an online API that allows you to adjust the on/off time of the pump. Then add water level sensors, then temperature sensors, etc.

Also, make sure you prototype everything on a small scale first, like the guy in the video was doing on his desk. It will save you a lot of money if you mess anything up.

Once you develop the skills necessary to build your smart-system, I cannot stress how important a good, detailed electrical diagram is. It doesn't matter if it's professional-quality, or done with pencil and a ruler. It will save you so much time.

u/iamhelltothee · 1 pointr/diypedals

Thanks, this was really helpful! Since with this blog I finally better understood the process of building pedals, I’ve made up my mind about getting into this and learning as much as possible. It’s a great blog.

I do have a follow up question thou. I’m now making a list of tools I’ll need to get for the job, I already have a few but I’m missing a multimeter. Would [this one](Innova 3320 Auto-Ranging Digital Multimeter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EVYGZA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_A3m-AbTVDFTA0) be good enough?

u/Yosho2k · 1 pointr/headphones

Ok, so I just discovered my multimeter (which I haven't used in years) has a broken screen, so I'm waiting for a new one from amazon. I'm guessing what you're going to say is to test the TRS on the broken phone against the solder point. I'll contact you again when I have it on Sunday. In the meantime, I'm learning all I can about wire replacement and that awesome-looking Kramer method.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVYGZA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/packmanta · 1 pointr/tDCS

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVYGZA/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Readings corroborated the expected output down to the 2nd decimal place

u/JayReddt · 1 pointr/electricians

Thanks for the kind words. And doesn't hurt giving important advice like shut the circuit and test it. I do know to do that but given the dangers involved... I don't mind hearing it!

Would this multimeter tool work as a voltage tester? I used it to test the current on parts of my dryer to see what needed to be replaced.

If not, any specific recommended voltage tester?

u/caseyrobinson2 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement
u/Thandius · 1 pointr/Plumbing

an Amp clamp? do you mean an Amps setting on my multi meter?

I picked up a multi meter to help diagnose this problem (and other problems down the line) and have mostly been following instructions on use....

I got this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVYGZA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am guessing It's the yellow setting on the bottom left DC10A

OR is this something on the water heter?

~Edit~
Corrected location of setting I described.

u/Account_for_mech_adv · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000EVYGZA?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

It was the first thing that came up when I searched multimeter on Amazon. I can go get a different one at a store tomorrow and see if the results are the same. Are there any particular brands you reccommend?

u/crypt_pwd · 1 pointr/tDCS

I have decided to buy the banana plugs and jacks from amazon can anyone here verify that I am going to buy the correct ones
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BKW2K2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&smid=A28128AMZ00PEQ
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002FYAQYO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&smid=A3S5JX6S4LCKI6
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0044YPN0A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&smid=A1DCPNQKKEISZB

Also, will this meter be ok to measure the current?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVYGZA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I tried finding the fuse but I was unable, can anyone post a link to where you got yours. Finally, I was wondering if has anyone experimented with HD-TDCS

u/socraticd · 1 pointr/SolarDIY

I'd highly recommend getting a halfway decent multimeter if you don't have one. Given that you'll have more electrical work to do (and test) after initial diagnosis, you'll get a LOT of value out of a decent multimeter.

Something like this won't break the bank, and all the major functionality you will need to troubleshoot:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVYGZA/

u/dogfunky · 1 pointr/AskElectronics
u/cdawzrd · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

I have heard good things about the Extech EX330 and its thermocouple-less cousin the EX320. They are $60 and $40 on Amazon, respecively.

If you plan on measuring AC signals that aren't perfect sine waves, you probably want a True RMS multimeter (see why in this pdf). I use a BK 2707 ($95) that has stood up excellently compared to $200+ Fluke meters I've tried.

u/3DBeerGoggles · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

Safety aside (given it's low voltage), I wouldn't want to go too crappy for the sake of reliability/accuracy.

For the ~$20 mark, I'd try an inexpensive Extech:
https://www.amazon.com/Extech-645618-Digital-Mini-MultiMeter/dp/B0012VWR20/

For the ~$50 mark, the EX-330 was well received on the EEVblog $50 multimeter shootout:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EX0AE4/

u/deelowe · 1 pointr/arduino

The uno is going to be the most compatible with just about anything you encounter.

For components, get leds, caps, transitors, resistors, diodes, buttons, switches, breaboards, jumper wires, hook up wire, and other odds and ends from aliexpress, deal extreme or ebay. The shipping times can be a bit lengthy, but you'll get the best selection and prices this way.

For tools, check out dave's amazon list or ladyada's tool list. You should at least get a multimeter and a wire cutter. Don't skimp on tools.

After that, check out sparkfun, adafruit, seeedstudio, hackaday, the eevblog, and this subreddit to get some ideas flowing. By the way, in addition to the eevblog, Sparkfun and adafruit have youtube channels that are really good. To get started, try out some simply shields: anything with audio or video is always fun; also anything with motors can be cool, but robotics can get expensive. Or, perhaps go shield-less and try doing stuff with just the arduino. You can do a lot with just LEDs, a speaker, some resistors and the uno.

u/DJ027X · 1 pointr/electronics

I'd recommend getting a temp sensor; possibly one of these multimeter/temp sensor combos so you can calibrate. The FX-888D should be very reliable, provided you haven't received a knockoff.
https://www.amazon.com/Extech-EX330-Autoranging-Multimeter-Temperature/dp/B000EX0AE4/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=extech+multimeter+thermometer&qid=1558588555&s=gateway&sr=8-2

u/Igashu · 1 pointr/homeautomation

You're measuring AC voltage so you should set it to the V with the wavy line, in the 200 range. (As an aside, if you're a homeowner and do anything with electrical systems ever, you should really consider buying an auto ranging multimeter with a non contact voltage detector, like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EX0AE4)

u/TaxExempt · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

I did. I searched this subreddit as I trust a group of redditors more than random google results.

I found this multimeter from a post from 2 years ago.

Is it still a good bargain?

u/jaifriedpork · 1 pointr/electronics

Dave from EEVblog recommends building power supplies. They're pretty simple, and it doesn't hurt to have a bunch of them. You can find kits, which will teach you how to solder parts onto a PCB, but it's not too hard to design a supply around an LM317 regulator, the data sheet will have the circuit you need right on it. This will also be a good chance to learn the non-electronics skills you'll need; instead of buying a plastic box, make one out of plywood and paint it up.

Once you have a power supply or three, start playing around with simple analog circuits. You should have a breadboard and jumper wires and at least one good multimeter, though the aforementioned EEVblog recommends two, and not cheaping out on them. He did a $50 multimeter shootout , if you don't want to watch an hourlong video this was the winner, but it's worth watching to see why it won. Anyhow, you can find kits and project ideas online, get some random parts and start playing around until you have a good feel for old school analog circuits. Try to make up your own project and build it, even if it's completely useless.

At some point, preferably after you have a good grasp of analog circuits, you're going to have to move up to digital. Arduinos are a good start, they're popular enough that you can't look at a single page of Instructables without tripping over an Arduino project. You're going to have to learn some programming to make it go, but there's a million tutorials online. To make the pinball machine go, you're going to have to learn how to use the Arduino (or something like it) to control analog components, probably while giving them their own external power source. You'll also need to know how to drive a display for the scoreboard, and of course you'll have to program the logic for keeping track of the number of balls left, current score, and what inputs translate to what increase in score. The programming alone is a big undertaking, so if you go forward on this, be prepared to spend years on it.

A good project to do would also be to make a MAME cabinet. It's much simpler on the electronics side, you either hack the buttons and joysticks into a USB keyboard controller, or buy one of these which does the same thing, and then use an old PC and monitor. The hard part is building an arcade cabinet, which is still a lot simpler than building a pinball table. You'd be looking at a couple hundred dollars in parts, but that's not too bad compared to what you want to end up doing.

u/_Heath · 1 pointr/BuyItForLife

An auto ranging multi meter with A K type thermocouple provides a very good thermometer, or you could order a standalone K type thermocouple display.

The extech 330 is a good quality to price ratio:
http://www.amazon.com/Extech-EX330-Autoranging-Multimeter-Thermometer/dp/B000EX0AE4/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1375668730&sr=8-15&keywords=Multimeter

The fluke 116 HVAC is the "buy it for life" meter.
http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-116-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000NI69YA

u/subconciousness · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

i went with this Extech EX330, all the good features including non-contact voltage widowmaker, includes a temp probe too, good quality as evidenced by the eevblog shootout, moderately cheap. im not a mechanic though :/

u/phalangepatella · 1 pointr/Tools

I have been very impressed with the Extech EX330 I bought for about $77 Canadian:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000EX0AE4

(Edit: Just looked, and the price was quite a bit lower when I bought it last yer. I paid $59.99 CAD then.)

u/tlucas · 1 pointr/esp8266

hey, the relay won't work very well if you're using RGB LEDs. One of the coolest features of RGB is the ability to mix colours by pulsing each in sequence for different amounts of time. The relay may not be able to switch fast enough, and you'd need of for each 'colour'.

Personally I don't find the Reddit format to be the best for asking these types of questions, as often the 'popular vote' goes to the answers that are short and easy to understand, which may not be the 'best' answer. I prefer http://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php and the related electronics vblogs, and https://electronics.stackexchange.com/.

For a great mid-range multimeter I love the Extech EX330 (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000EX0AE4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1), especially with its built-in non-contact voltage detection for working on household wiring (not related, but it's so handy!). The Fluke 87-V is, in my opinion, the cream of the crop and priced accordingly. There are cheap multimeters for $5 that will get the job done, and I do keep these in my vehicles -- eBay and a month of shipping time works well here. Searching eevblog.com for "shootout" (search Google for "site:eevblog.com shootout") reveals great comparisons, too many to read through but indulge the a bit to get a feel for what to look for.

u/spirituallyinsane · 1 pointr/ECE

I bought an Extech EX330 for the exact same purpose as you. Eventually I will upgrade to a higher end model, but this one is a good balance of price, size, and durability to keep in a toolbox or have banging around in my backpack. I expect it to last for many years, so I plan to keep it as a backup when I upgrade. Right now, looks like Amazon is running a discount on them, as well. http://amzn.com/B000EX0AE4. Also, the EX430, which adds RMS capability, is about the same price right now: http://amzn.com/B0000WU1AC.

Good luck!

u/tim404 · 1 pointr/CarAV

Digital multimeter... here's a couple decent looking ones that should do most of what you want.

Of course Fluke makes the best, but they certainly charge for it.

I have a Craftsman Professional myself and it's perfectly fine.

So it sounds like the thing to do would be to fix the broken speaker wire. There's a number of ways to do that. I'll list them in decreasing difficulty, and also decreasing quality of fix.

You could:

  • Run entirely new wire from the factory wiring harness to the speaker in the door.
  • Find the break and run new wire from the break to the speaker.
  • Find the break and just splice in a new bit of wire.

    The DMM will come in handy for a lot of things (checking grounds, seeing if your RTO is working, checking fuses, verifying continuity of wires - which you're doing here). If you get a good one now, it'll last you years (I've had mine for more than 10 years and I use it at least a couple times a month for all sorts of automotive and household things!).
u/scott_fx · 1 pointr/CarAV

flukes are the best, but you don't need that. a cheap one at lowes should work fine if you want something a bit better, i recommend this one:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JQ4O2U/ref=pe_175190_21431760_cs_sce_dp_2

u/reodorant · 1 pointr/electronics

would something like this or this be able to tell me?

u/bicycleradical · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

Get a multimeter. If you buy from the following link, you support an excellent Youtube channel as well:

http://astore.amazon.com/afromods-20/detail/B000JQ4O2U/190-8350356-1062150

u/cristoper · 1 pointr/electronics

> http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000JQ4O2U/afromods-20 I hear this one is good.

Of the one's you posted, this is the only one which is both auto-ranging and has a fused high-current port. It also has an audible warning when the probes are in the wrong jacks. For $25 it looks like a good value.

u/scragz · 1 pointr/electronics

I can recommend this $25 Mastech for hobby usage. I picked one up five years ago and it's still going great.

u/LordMaejikan · 1 pointr/Frugal

I picked up this one recently. I did a few hours of research and came to the conclusion that this is a good mid-range meter.

Of course, I'm not using it for anything that could kill me (mostly just arduino and rpi projects), and once I have a need for something better, I'll probably go for the Fluke.

u/mdszy · 1 pointr/electronics

I actually just bought one of these multimeters that arrived today and I'm loving it, so much. It's only $30 and works amazingly well. It's full-featured and includes a helpful little socket with holes that you can put an electronic component (i.e a resistor) into so you don't have to wrestle with the test leads. I'd highly recommend it.

u/Slave_To_The_Machine · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

This tool has saved multiple trees and light strings for me

My favorite tree had a section out and I couldn't find a bulb that was at fault. The problem was a defective shunt (where the bulb plugs in). This reactivated it and it all came back on. It also beeps as you go along the line until it reaches the point of interruption.

Well worth it.

u/AbsolutelyPink · 1 pointr/fixit

Get one of these
They work! You'll plug in a socket that you pull a bulb out of, click it a few times and it will light up. Alternatively, it can also help you locate bulbs that are blown.

u/wigg1es · 1 pointr/AdviceAnimals

Buy one of these. It will pay for itself the first year you use it.

http://www.amazon.com/Keeper-01201-Complete-Fixing-Miniature/dp/B000R8KBOK

It seems like a crap money-grubbing scam, but it really works and will save you from buying new strings and bulbs every year. It's amazing.

u/brownminion · 1 pointr/electrical

Bought me one of these a few years ago, works like a charm. It repairs those faulty sockets with a click of the trigger.
http://www.amazon.com/Keeper-01201-Complete-Fixing-Miniature/dp/B000R8KBOK

u/ThatNetworkGuy · 1 pointr/AdviceAnimals

We would have thrown out our older artificial tree due to dead strands years ago if not for this thing.

Makes fixing the strands infinitely less tedious than the old "check every single bulb one at a time" plan.

u/tmwrnj · 1 pointr/Guitar

Use an IEC splitter cable with a clip-on ferrite. The IEC splitter allows you to neatly wire up all of your power supplies from a single cable. You can fix it in place on your pedalboard, so you'll only need to plug in a single power cable to run all of your Pedal Power units. The ferrite will help dissipate RF interference coming from the mains wiring.

While you're at it, get yourself an outlet tester and a GFCI - it could save your life.

u/ClassyClassic76 · 1 pointr/ValveIndex

There are relatively cheap meters designed specifically for testing wiring. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8a1sDb0156PJ9

u/brightlights_bigsky · 1 pointr/electricians

Couple thoughts. Is there maybe a problem with wiring? I would get one of these and try all the plugs to see if you have an issue like a bad ground. There are others that look like this one, but most will not give you as good of a test. Sperry Receptacle Tester ($8) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_hg-rDb7HMV8WX

For a good whole house protection from a unit like the Square D HEPD80, its common to run into issues with placement. I like using the EATON CHSPT2ULTRA, but similar specs. Its a little more difficult, but I have run them outside directly through the back of the breaker panel to a small metal wall box on the outside. Little more work, but this keeps the leads short (important) and even lets me check on the surge protector LEDs very easily). They normally have something like this at HD/Lowes - here is something similar: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T5BRO4/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_tr-rDbAYB73ZJ

u/Dark_24 · 1 pointr/buildapc

How much per kWh does your electricity cost? 19 Cents per Kilowatthour?

https://www.eia.gov/electricity/monthly/epm_table_grapher.php?t=epmt_5_6_a



It really does not sound like the PC is causing this..

You said you purchased an electricity usage monitor?

What did it read? what is it currently reading? You should keep it hooked up so you can get an over time look at your power usage..

Your PC should not cost more than about $15 -$20 a month to run MAX..

It can not even imagine a faulty PSU causing this.. and if it was a power strip it should have blown up by now and burned your house down..

You could get a outlet tester: like this
https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511526107&sr=8-3&keywords=outlet+tester&tag=gamersnexus01-20

To make sure you do not have a faulty outlet..

What you can do is hook up the Kill-A-Watt meter and put your PC to sleep see if the Power Supply is still drawing that god awful amount of power.. and Check your monitor make sure the power brick is not faulty..

That kind of power would generate a LOT of heat your room should be a sauna if it is the PC

If you check your PC parts Picker it is showing your Power draw at
36W to 146W max..

https://www.pcmag.com/article/343177/how-to-measure-home-power-usage

Watts / 1000 * Hours used x (Cost per Kilowatt-hour)= Total Cost..

Your PC Max should be about 146W + 30W for the monitor MAX

Intel - Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor 8W - 65W

MSI - H110M Gaming Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard 15W - 60W

Avexir - Core Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory 11W - 11W

Crucial - MX300 750GB 2.5" Solid State Drive 2W - 10W

Monitor is 30W

So do the math 176W

176/1000 = .176 of a Kilowatt

  • say $.19 (cost per kWh) so $.033 per hour
  • say 16 hours a day thats about 54 cents a day..
  • 30 days is about $16

    Say your PC uses 350 watts, including monitor, while playing a graphically-intensive game, and your kWh cost is $0.19. If you were to play for one hour straight, it would cost you:

    350 / 1000 * 0.19 = $0.07 per hour

    Lets say for arguments sake you used all 550W of your Power supply + Monitor 30W that would be 580W 10 cents per hour or $1.76 per day or about $53 a month.. MAX and your PC should be pumping out enough heat to make you sweat. ( Not to mention your Power Supply would not last very long )

    This still does NOT account for the increase in your bill... It is NOT the PC it can NOT be the PC

    Hook a Kill-A-Watt meter to the PC and give us the numbers..

    If it is over 100 Watts while your doing nothing there is a problem..

    If it is over 350 Watts while your working there is a problem..


u/Spungo1 · 1 pointr/electricians

Try to buy cheap junk from Walmart or Amazon until you know exactly what you want. You don't need a $60 pair of pliers or a $300 drill when you're learning.

  • Safety glasses

  • Linesman pliers (high leverage pliers that can also cut wires)

  • Diagonal cutting pliers (wire cutters)

  • Long reach needle nose pliers

  • Wire strippers.

  • 25 foot tape measure

  • Hammer

  • Multimeter that can check voltage and resistance. It doesn't need to be accurate.

  • Receptacle tester that looks like this

  • No contact voltage tester like this

  • A magnetic dish for holding screws. Seriously. Losing screws is not fun. A big magnet can also be useful if you drop a bunch of screws or nails on the floor.

  • Ziplock bags. I always end up needing bags for things. A small bag full of clean napkins is a great thing to have.

  • Knife with a sheepsfoot blade like this

  • Tool box. Get one that is big and cheap. I paid $10 for mine and it holds everything listed above.
u/Agent_X10 · 1 pointr/OSHA

Get one of these devices. It'll tell you how screwed up your outlets are.

http://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Outlet-Tester/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=pd_bxgy_328_img_3

Any hardware store has these, no need to order from amazon, or any particular brand.

u/ctmurray · 1 pointr/applehelp

Well it has to be something with the electricity in the house, and the chargers are smart enough to sense that and not work (I guess). There is a device you can plug into outlets that can detect issues (really long link below). This is a very useful, cheap, tool that you will use several times over the decades you live/own a home.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=sxr_zg_dy_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3525596382&pd_rd_wg=OOxLD&pf_rd_r=25QHY3ETGE3FYBZQ6PF0&pf_rd_s=desktop-rhs-carousels&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B000RUL2UU&pd_rd_w=cmB9C&pf_rd_i=electrical+tester&pd_rd_r=c6e22401-47d8-437c-8bcf-4a91ca469380&ie=UTF8&qid=1523146792&sr=1

u/ljrochon · 1 pointr/explainlikeimfive

Buy one of these

https://www.amazon.ca/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1519793985&sr=8-2&keywords=outlet+tester+gfci

plug it in to each outlet until you find the problem. If all the outlets check out you may have an issue with a switch or a light fixture. Or just call an electrician. A/C is not for the inexperienced and will kill you.

u/JDT0962 · 1 pointr/instantpot

Not to fear-monger (too much) but if you saw something glowing orange in that socket, then you have narrowly averted a fire. What you smelled *was* burnt plastic and maybe wire insulation. You may not have had a flaming fire but do not misunderstand - you came very close to a potential house fire.

Any electric heating element pulls a LOT of current and can cause overheating/fires. I'm in the US but I'm also sure CA has similar electrical requirements to prevent disasters. I'd guess that something is wrong with that particular circuit, or possibly multiple circuits. The breaker/fuse should have tripped before it reached a situation that could cause a fire. Things to check would be the rating of the breaker on that circuit (it may not be matched to the wire of the circuit) or for too many devices on the circuit (or combinations of the above). If you wanted to check the current required by your pot, you can buy a "Watt meter" at your local big box supply store or online. "Kill-A-Watt" is one popular brand and they run about $20-25 USD. At this point, I'd strongly suggest that you have an electrician or someone fully knowledgeable inspect your breaker panel and house wiring to be certain that you are safe going forward. You'll need to immediately replace that receptacle as well so maybe pay someone to do that and check things while they are there.

I'd also check the polarity of the wiring and the grounds at every outlet - you can find polarity checkers cheap like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU.

​

Finally note that GFCI outlets have nothing to do with high-wattage appliances. GFCI means Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter - they are mandated to be used when any outlet is within the proximity of a sink, hose, etc. - water of any kind. They would break the power to the circuit in the event of a ground fault that could cause you to be electrocuted. Test these periodically as they do sometimes go back and loose their protective qualities.

Hope this helps - be safe.

​

​

u/Halfinchsoul · 1 pointr/electricians

This sounds like a shielding problem, you can buy a cheap receptacle tester to tell you if you have problems with the wiring in your home.

https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Outlet-Tester/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1487102109&sr=8-3&keywords=receptacle+tester

u/Tippytom · 1 pointr/electricians

the only thing you can do as a tenant is get a receptacle tester then you can give your landlord more info on the problem

u/SeahawkerLBC · 1 pointr/buildapc

Well I'm going to pick up one of these today and check out all my outlets

https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541514953&sr=8-3&keywords=Tester+AC+Outlet

Between the two, would you get an AVR or UPS? My computer is 400w with maybe another 100w with peripherals and monitor.

u/Canuhandleit · 1 pointr/malelivingspace

Also, get a continuity tester. That way you can tell if the outlet is hot or wired correctly. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_v3G-BbNR3T6V6

u/ocdtrekkie · 1 pointr/DIY

There's a couple handy tools you'll want.

A receptacle tester: https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU makes it easy to see if your GFCI outlet is A. wired correctly and B. trips properly. A perk here, is you can also use this tester to see if your normal outlet is chained to a GFCI outlet or on a GFCI breaker, as they'll trip just as well if you use the test button on this tool.

Actually, you can get both in one: https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-STK001-Non-Contact-Receptacle/dp/B002JGQAQ6 but you want something handy to check if a wire is live. After I believe I've turned off a circuit, I test it a couple times, usually going to a live circuit too to make sure the tester is also working. I want to be super confident before I touch it.

And yeah, I usually never do electrical work without a friend present, just in case I do something dumb. Never work with electrical alone if you can avoid it.

u/anthonyalmighty · 1 pointr/HomeMaintenance

You can pickup a simple outlet test tool for very, very cheap: https://smile.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Outlet-Tester/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488298170&sr=8-1&keywords=GFCI+test

I have one and use one to service homes new and old to test for common wiring fault problems. This could help you eliminate wiring issues from the problem.

u/liquorsnoot · 1 pointr/pcgamingtechsupport

Good call. In preparation, you could test the outlet (if you've the means), and double check your video card connectors are clean, and that there's no hint of burnt smell anywhere.

u/reallynotnick · 1 pointr/PS4Pro

Hmmmm, about all I can think of other than bad luck is either get a good surge protector if you don't have one or better yet a UPS as someone suggested. And while probably not super necessary having something like this isn't a bad idea to have on hand (this was just the first receptacle tester I found): https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_bs_lp_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=EE0D91J1R8YBHMQEW8P5

Otherwise I think it is just bad luck or someone is coming into your home and randomly breaking your PS4.

u/NoGoodVeryBadDay · 1 pointr/videos

I can tell you that it's a bad ground for sure and a short somewhere in the dishwasher itself. The ground issue is either in the dishwasher itself or in the electrical system in your house. A simple plug tester like this http://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Outlet-Tester/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449799157&sr=8-1&keywords=Plug+tester will tell you which one it is. Sorry for the long link, I don't know how to shorten them. If it's the dishwasher Bosch has a really good warranty and will send someone to your house to fix it. Until then unplug it because it could possibly cause a fire.

u/BornOnFeb2nd · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

This one is the apparently the top seller and it's on the cheaper side, and it does GFCI testing too.

Plug it in, you want to see two oranges. Nice and simple. It doesn't guarantee a true ground, but there's something that resembles one..

Other than that, you can pick 'em up anywhere... any will probably suffice If you've got a hardware store nearby, you can probably save a couple of bucks on 'em. the "official" name is a "Receptacle tester".

Careful though.. they're tricksy bastards! I've purchased something like 15-20 of them.. I couldn't tell you where a single one of them is right now....

u/ahenkel · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Outlet-Tester/dp/B000RUL2UU

Get one of these verify you have a ground issue. Then call an electrician.

u/SwingNinja · 1 pointr/DIY

Try hook the disposal directly to a regular outlet (use an extension cable). If there's nothing wrong with it, it should just be on shredding until you unplug it. To test the outlet itself, use a tester like this.

u/Cartossin · 1 pointr/audiophile

You should go to home depot and buy one of those plug tester devices. You plug it in your outlet and it says if it's wired wrong. I suspect the return is going through ground or something. Check all your outlets. This isn't just a case of "my power is really dirty". For it to be this bad, I think it's got to be wired totally wrong.

https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=outlet+tester&qid=1554167020&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Also you could run an extension cord and try an outlet from another room. Have you checked all your speaker wires to make sure they're not shorting?

u/KevPat23 · 1 pointr/askanelectrician

OP, here's an example of one

u/lekryptoking2 · 1 pointr/NiceHash
u/sic0048 · 1 pointr/livesound

I'd recommend getting an inexpensive outlet/receptacle tester and testing any outlet that you will be plugging equipment into. If it doesn't test correctly, notify the staff at the building and don't use it. It's not the complete solution, but it is a great start.....

Something like this...... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RUL2UU/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_bxldN_c_x_1_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=HWWEYSS763CCFCJ6GS1R&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=e32b96c7-50a4-5f19-ae33-9408ab96b97e&pf_rd_i=14244461

u/PM_me_your_juicy_ass · 1 pointr/fixit

So it sounds like the outlets weren't grounded as someone already stated. The surge protector had nowhere to shunt any excess current to so it just went to your equipment. It's strange that your mother board was blown and not your power supply.

Nevertheless, I wouldn't plug a computer into any outlet unless I new it was grounded. If you do run an extension cord, there's three things to remember. Firstly, make sure the extension cord is a grounded one. Secondly, make sure the outlet is properly wired. Thirdly, make sure to make the cord as short as possible and don't cover it up with anything (rugs, carpet, etc.)

How do you check an outlet? The simplest method is to use a circuit tester. It's pretty cut and dry and it's a non-invasive way to make sure every wire is in the right place.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000RUL2UU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1451367300&sr=1-1&pi=AC_SX220_SY330_FMwebp_QL65

u/LocalAmazonBot · 1 pointr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link: Try something like this


|Country|Link|Charity Links|
|:-----------|:------------|:------------|
|USA|smile.amazon.com|EFF|
|UK|www.amazon.co.uk|Macmillan|
|Canada|www.amazon.ca||




To help add charity links, please have a look at this thread.

This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.

u/defimeshun · 1 pointr/IAmA

shocked as in electrically? The power (or your amp) is not grounded correctly. You could get something like this here to check the outlets before you play; you can make sure they are grounded with that.

I believe another option would be to get a power conditioner although I do not know much about it.

u/dramahitler · 1 pointr/buildapc

Usually when I see problems like this its because of a ground issue with the house wiring. Even if you have a ground socket, the ground might not be grounded properly. You may have to contact an electrician or use a ground tester

u/OneMoar · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

get a ground tester https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Receptacle-Outlet-Ground-Tester/dp/B0012DHVQ0

start testing outlets to see if its just one outlet or a entire circuit

in a short term you can attach a wire to one of the screws on the case and connect it to a good ground source such as copper plumbing


u/yo-yo-baggins · 1 pointr/techsupport

A company that delivers packages.
Has fuck-all to do with networking...

(kidding)

A UPS has a battery that is constantly being recharged. You plug your computer into the UPS. The computer gets its power from the battery.

Think of a bucket. At the to of the bucket you are pouring water in very fast. At the bottom of the bucket is a hole that doesn't allow the water to leave faster then it is being added.
Not only will the bucket always be full - but if there are problems with the rate the water comes into the bucket (what you are calling dirty electricity) it does not effect how fast the water comes out the hole.

While you are at the store buying the UPS, buy yourself a device to check grounding in your electrical outlets.

http://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Receptacle-Outlet-Ground-Tester/dp/B0012DHVQ0/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1419779475&sr=1-5&keywords=ground+tester

An ungrounded outlet can cause all kinds of havok.

------------

Microwave is line of site.
Check that nothing - no leaves, no trees, no nothing is blocking the path of the antenna.
Also, look for damage to the antenna, is there any evidence that something is occuring to knock it out of alignment (maybe heavy winds shake it on its post)?

-----------

Use Wireshark to check for collisions on the network.

-----------

Interference, interference, interference.
Shitty electrical lines inside the walls. Flourescent lighting. Microwaves. Cordless phones. All these things interfere with the 2.4 ghz spectrum.

Think HARD about this.

Do you have a LAN cable running near a flourescent light? MOVE IT. LAN cables (Cat 5, Cat6, etc) are unshielded and open to electrical interference.

-------------------

Internet speeds slow down until I restart my router:

http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-1812209/internet-speeds-slow-restart-router.html

u/seanthenry · 1 pointr/OffGrid

The ground at the plug is not necessary for solar.

To test the plugs that have a ground get Electrical Receptacle Ground Tester they are about $6-7.

u/cPHILIPzarina · 1 pointr/vintageaudio

One of these might be helpful to you:

Power Gear 50542 3-Wire Receptacle Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LZTKIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Y9hYxbPG7ZZG1

u/technicolormotorhome · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Get a $5 outlet tester.

http://www.amazon.com/GE-50542-3-Wire-Receptacle-Tester/dp/B002LZTKIA

Worth its weight in gold. You'll be surprised how often it comes in handy - just testing if an outlet is live, e.g.

u/profmathers · 1 pointr/HomeMaintenance

I'm lazy, I just use a $6 plug-in outlet tester.

Power Gear 50542 3-Wire Receptacle Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LZTKIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_G9i2xb8HMR1DW

u/phcorrigan · 1 pointr/audioengineering

As others have said, it's likely a grounding issue. If you are in the U.S. or Canada, get one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-Receptacle-Indications-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1524350592&sr=8-18&keywords=electrical+outlet+tester

It will tell you if your outlet is wired correctly. If it isn't, that is likely your problem. The solution would be to fix the outlet, which should be done for safety reasons, or temporarily move to another properly-wired outlet and see if the problem goes away.

u/B-Rabbit · 1 pointr/buildapc

You can buy an outlet tester like this to check.

u/wonderyak · 1 pointr/guitarpedals

In addition to the other two suggestions regarding ground loops, make sure your amps are plugged into two different wall sockets.

You may also want to get a cheap outlet tester just to test things out.

u/-Dreadman23- · 1 pointr/diysound

This is probably part of the issue.

Do you have a voltage meter?

You could try connecting the ground lug of the receiver to the ground pin at the wall socket. Or convert the receiver to 3 pin plug.

It would be good to verify with an outlet tester that everything is wired correctly (they are supper cheap) https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-Receptacle-Indications-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA

Many people will disagree with me, and with valid reasons. But if the outlet is wired correctly, there really isn't anything wrong with removing the ground pin from the sub.

You would obviously want to use a GFCI outlet for all that equipment.

Ground loops and the really difficult stuff, and sometimes it is actually an engineer defect in the equipment.

That PDF file recommend in the other comment is very good, and you should read it even if most of it seems advanced. They do a good job of explaining the concepts.


Let me know if you have specific questions about what to measure.

u/rrredditor · 1 pointr/Guitar

If you really mean 120 cycle hum, (not the usual 60hz hum) then it is potentially a filter cap issue. The mains power is 60hz but after rectification it is 120hz. At that point the filter caps are supposed to smooth that 120hz ripple.

First step is still to eliminate the possibilities and take it to another site with different power/interference/etc. I would also get an AC outlet checker, like this one, and check the wiring. I've seen some messed up house wiring.

Lot's of potential interference in any modern home. Could be lights, computers, etc. If it's fluorescent lights, try keeping old incandescent bulbs in the music room, maybe.

u/Bryzum · 1 pointr/electricians

Use one of these, I might also recommend opening one or two outlets with the power off to make sure it's not a bootleg ground.


https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-Receptacle-Indications-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA

u/Eccentrica_Gallumbit · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

> If the other circuits have a ground, there's just a wire come loose somewhere, which would not be difficult to track down for an electrician.

Not necessarily. They could have replaced some of the outlets with grounds, and didn't have access to a ground in this outlet for some reason or another.

OP definitely needs to let management handle this. Best you can do is get an outlet tester and see if you have another grounded outlet accessible.

Remind maintenance that if the outlet is not grounded, it should be either a 2-prong outlet, or have GFCI protection in order to meet NEC.

u/snowywind · 1 pointr/talesfromtechsupport

I'd just go get one of these guys if I had no other test equipment available.

https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-3-Wire-Receptacle-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA

They're $5-10 at pretty much any hardware store.

u/PSYKO_Inc · 0 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

What kind of multimeter are you using? If it's one of the $5 Harbor Freight meters, chuck it. Those aren't worth the cheap plastic they're made of in my experience. I use this multimeter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000EVYGZA?pc_redir=1409305585&robot_redir=1 I bought it a couple years ago for about $20 and use it for a number of electronic, home electrical, and automotive electrical projects, it's always been dead on. I've even compared it side by side with the laboratory calibrated Fluke meter I use at work and it's within .01v, good enough for me.

u/ItsDijital · 0 pointsr/AskElectronics

I have an Extech EX330, the auto ranging is a little slow, but otherwise it's a great accurate budget minded meter.

u/iamnuts_ · 0 pointsr/LifeProTips

Extra string of lights is a great tip. Also consider one of these light repair guns!

Light Keeper PRO 01201 The Complete Tool for Fixing Miniature Light Sets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000R8KBOK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3EohAbZQ5ZA8S

I only bought it because it was so cheap. I thought if it didn't work very well I was only out a few bucks so what the hey. Boy was I wrong! This thing has fixed my strands so many times it has payed for itself 10 times over!

Happy Holidays everyone!

u/alias_enki · 0 pointsr/HomeImprovement

An outlet tester jammed into the existing outlet might be a good idea. It can help diagnose WTF is going on inside that box. I know enough to diagnose that and get things straight, not sure if OP is in the same situation. I definitely recommend grabbing some white/black colored tape to mark the wire if OP is comfortable IDing the wiring. Dealt with cloth wire where I live, I feel the pain. 100% agree, pigtails to the outlets and wrap tape around the terminal screws to minimize risk of shorts. Tape is cheap.

u/PigSlam · 0 pointsr/techsupport

I had a computer case that was to blame for this kind of issue. I replaced all the guts twice with spare parts I had lying around, moved it to different outlets, etc., tried other computers on the same outlet. Finally, I replaced the case, and everything was fine. I assume it was some kind of grounding issue. If I were to guess,
I'd suggest you probably have a grounding issue with your apartment wiring. You could test for this by getting one of these. The shocks probably aren't going to help your equipment. What do you have for flooring? Did you move to a drier climate than you lived before, or to a place where you have carpet instead of a non-carpeted floor?

u/caseyaustin84 · 0 pointsr/electrical

Get yourself a voltage tester and you can trace the outage back to the source. Start with the fixture, then work your way back.

u/rpp124 · 0 pointsr/homeautomation

Maybe something like this? This one says 120v, but maybe it can handle 240v or maybe there is another one that can do the 240. You should be able to have it monitor when the device detects more than x volts passing through it and record that, though I admit I have never used one.

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https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW095-ZW095/dp/B00XD8WZX6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541093774&sr=8-3&keywords=energy+monitor+z-wave

u/EverythingIsAnAdvert · 0 pointsr/iphone

Maybe get this?

u/macbrett · -1 pointsr/apple

Get a hold of an inexpensive outlet tester. Most hardware stores have them. If your grounded outlet wiring is screwed up (like the neutral and hot wires are switched) this will show it.