Best electrical wall plates & accessories according to redditors
We found 411 Reddit comments discussing the best electrical wall plates & accessories. We ranked the 200 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
So, to be fair, this is in a closet and fastened to a high shelf just below the equipment. It' really never in danger of accidental actuation, but it's a good thing to consider. Otherwise, these are good for accidental protection and if I wanted to make real project out of it I could probably hook up a microcontroller to turn on a warning light locally plus somewhere else in the house which was obvious. But, lucklily, my home crew is the reliable sort.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HEHD4A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0z3sDbV4A3YBG
Or just get an outlet with the USB charger built into it so there is no brick, then 3D print the outlet cover with an integrated pi case?
This kind of idea.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078JTK838/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kqoXCbN0X3M21
I have one of these covering a lightswitch http://www.amazon.com/Mitzvah-Family-Magnetic-Switch-Switches/dp/B002WQ2UBM/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1453928941&sr=8-6&keywords=switch+cover
and then a hue dimmer switch mounted right next to it. That setup works well.
Those are these lights from philips. They are the HUE Play lights.
I've got the flat rocker switches in my apartment and I found these magnetic covers on Amazon that look discreet and can be easily removed any time. They also have ones for flip switches like yours.
Magnetic Switch & Outlet Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002WQ2UBM/
Thanks.
No wonder it is drafty. Not a lot you can do, unfortunately. The very structure of the home is working against you. Have you installed these, yet?:
https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Stopper-Insulation-Weatherization-switches/dp/B002TIHKZE
https://www.amazon.com/Westinghouse-Lighting-0103600-Saf-T-Pan-2-Inch/dp/B000DCN8ZY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469026097&sr=8-1&keywords=pancake+electrical+box
They make products just for this purpose.
Not a fan rated box, and those look like drywall screws. I wouldn't hang a fan from that in it's current form. I'd take the box down and try to see what the screws were attached to. If it's a solid 2X4 spanning two joists or trusses, mounting a fan rated box like this or this should do it.
Personally I hate the foam weatherstripping tape, it looks awful and I have had the exact same issue you're having. I've had great luck with spring bronze, plus it looks really nice in old homes.
If you don't own the home, I'd be reluctant to spend the money for the bronze and would opt for vinyl v stripping or tubular gaskets instead. Also, recaulk around the window and door frames. Weatherstrip the door too.
Those Amish heaters are just pretty space heaters. I lived in one place that had no winterization at all, my gas bills for the first part of that first winter were insane (well over $400/month). I bit the bullet and did all of the winterizing in February, it cut my bill in half - there was a LOT that needed to be done. Since I was renting, I went with recaulking the windows & doors, insulating the light switches & outlets, weatherstripping the exterior doors, and put up plastic on the windows (the heat shrink kind, it is the clearest). I also hung heavier curtains in winter, I went with cheap "velvet" panel curtains from the clearance section at Walmart.
FWIW, I talked with the electrician about that. You could:
However, the diameter of the Dot is less than that of the power outlet, so you'd be able to see the recessed outlet behind the Dot.
It'll be a while before I'm back over where it's installed. I'm pretty sure the electrical was a combination of this, which recesses the outlet nicely, and this, which is a high quality outlet with USB ports.
If I am understanding you right, wouldn't a switch "cover" be a better idea? Note: I was able to train my wife and kids to not touch the switches tho :)
Maybe something like this? (Until they learn not to touch)
Light Switch Guard Cover Plates Set of 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078PPG44X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_t4t0Db246MV6P
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XP9M2FT
I bought those and put them on the switches. Cleaner look than tape.
https://www.amazon.com/Switch-Protects-Lights-Circuits-Accidentally/dp/B06XP9M2FT
Super cool!
I use these (but obviously they're not as fun lol):
Mitzvah Family Magnetic Switch & Outlet Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002WQ2UBM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8JIfAbYBWKB1W
I keep meaning to do a form response for lighting, because it's really a big issue with no easy solutions.
As tinyhands already said, smart bulbs do need to be kept on. I don't know about LifX, but Hue lights will automatically turn on when the power does - an annoyance when the power flashes off and on, but does allow them to basically work like a normal bulb.
So, solutions to your switch issue....
For smart switches, any - like GE - will work. For remotes, I suggest Lutron Picos, with the Pro Bridge. The bridge is $88, and the remotes are about $12 to $15 each. Lutron also makes smart switches.
Of course, you need to ask yourself why you want smart bulbs. I'm a huge fan of smart bulbs, so not discouraging you from using them, but.... well, do you have reasons for wanting smart bulbs?
Regardless of what solution you use, you will almost certainly need an automation controller.
So you would realistically do smart switches instead of having smart bulbs. The only reason I would see to use smart bulbs is because you don't own the property or because you want the ability to change colors of a color lightbulb.
> Do smart switches always keep the smart bulbs powered?
It depends on what you mean by smart switches. You would realistically just use a smart switch like this. The light switch itself would always have power no matter if you turn the light on or off (unless you kill the breaker), so you could control it no matter the state of the light.
Your best bet if you want to continue using the smart bulbs, and not smart switches, is by buying the Philips Hue Dimmer switches. You would still need the power for the light to be on (meaning don't touch it/block it off if needed). They would still be at the mercy of people using the light switch itself.
But, unless you rent or need color control, it doesn't make sense to keep dropping money on this path.
You can buy insulating gaskets to go beneath the cover plates at any home improvement store.
https://www.amazon.com/Gasket-Covers-Electrical-Stopper-Gaskets/dp/B002TIHKZE
I'd suggest some of these if you have trouble adjusting to it:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DCCCETM/
They do make them for rockers
https://www.amazon.com/Mitzvah-Family-Magnetic-Switch-Switches/dp/B002WQ2UBM/ref=pd_sim_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002WQ2UBM&pd_rd_r=GA01KK5FP3K9W5C0DCQ6&pd_rd_w=RwYaz&pd_rd_wg=ubIpx&psc=1&refRID=GA01KK5FP3K9W5C0DCQ6&dpID=31wRs%252BqGc2L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail
And this style
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0147PQIGI/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B0147PQIGI&pd_rd_wg=YN4mO&pd_rd_r=QQ92VGQECEWAAFR0ZV1C&pd_rd_w=vRVYY
These are the best thing ever.
Magnetic Switch & Outlett Cover for Toggle Switches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002X88GYY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ktQbBbQP1SKZ3
I covered all of my switches with these
It's enough for me to remember not to switch them, for my guests to realize they probably shouldn't switch them, but for me or guests to be able to do so if necessary.
Would probably be better to just get a light switch cover like this, and put the Hue Dimmer on top of that, or get a 2-gang cover and put the Hue Dimmer next to it.
Also, I'm pretty sure the Hue products do not require an internet connection, but at least a LAN connection for the Bridge to speak with your phone. The Hue Dimmer and Hue Tap communicate directly to the Bridge, which then communicates to the bulbs, so no internet connection needed there either.
What I did was to keep the regular Decora switches, then get this product to magnetically attach to the screws in the cover plate. Then I used 3M Command strip to attach the dimmer remote to the switch cover. In the end it looks like this.
These are another option depending on what kind of switches you have. We have a couple of these at our house.
Something like this is what I used to stop my mother in law from turning off the switch.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XP9M2FT
It’s low-tech but I’m planning on something like this:
Light Switch Guard Cover Plates Set of 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078PPG44X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_T3b2BbW9PRR0R
That way it’ll keep us from turning off the lights on accident but if we need to manually do anything it’s not a total pain (turning off breakers, etc).
In my bathroom with the motion sensor set to low light in the middle of the night I know there will be times I will need full light (kid sick or whatever) and flipping switch off and back on will be easier than grabbing my phone.
Also allows grandparents etc who are visiting to use things the “normal” way if they want / need.
the only thing you actually need a recessed outlet for the power. for the hdmi cable, or even several cables, a flush mounted brush plate will work just as well as a recessed one, even for the thinnest tv mounts you can buy.
that being said, your HDMI and your electrical may be coming out of the same location, so if your going to go double gang, might as well.
https://www.amazon.com/Bryant-Electric-RR1512W-Connection-Tamper-Resistant/dp/B013GFQ3QA/
https://www.amazon.com/Seymour-TV1WTVSSWCC2-Recessed-Television-Installation/dp/B009VYDHFQ/
https://www.amazon.com/Datacomm-45-0031-WH-Recessed-Voltage-Receptacle/dp/B004GZ89N0/
You should get some insulating foam covers for your outlets. You're bleeding heat and that doesn't look super-safe.
Well in that case I suggest a bigger roll, likely 1000ft or more. Shouldn't be more than like 40 or 50$. But if you're running them through the walls, you're right, cat6 would be the smarter move. This is almost exactly the kit I bought but it comes with a neat carrying case and those blue ethernet connector covers. You should absolutely get and use a cable tester like the one in this kit, if you're running wires through your wall the last thing you want to do is run them and then find out it was wired incorrectly or doesn't work for some other reason. Also always give yourself at least a foot more than you think you'll need so that if you mess up stripping the wires or something you have a couple more tries. But it takes surprisingly little practice to get good at.
I wish you good luck, mate. I also recommend running a good HDMI, USB and power extension cord for a Vive (also works with Oculus) if you ever plan on using that room for VR. Since you're already in the walls, it would be a smart time to do it. Only real advice there is to put a nice sleeve over the power wire because it's surprisingly small in diameter. Quick edit: Here's an outlet cover plate you could use for VR wires.
If it is a switch you can tape half of a disposable cup to it with the opening facing the top to prevent him from touching it. Or get a guard like this.
I got these to go over my light switches that need to stay on.
As you probably don't want to be plugging in things over a hot stove anyway, you could remove the outlet and put a blank cover (example) over the box. However, you are still supposed to have an outlet for every 4 feet of countertop (no more than 2 feet from an end.)
Understood, that makes sense. I was thinking cutting a small hole in the drywall behind the mirrors and snaking the cable down to the floor level, and bringing it back out another hole to plug in. But then you're talking about drywall repair when it comes time to move out.
Or you could always add a couple of these over the holes when you do move out, and there's a high chance no one won't notice them when doing the move out inspection. It will just be assumed that they are covering old, no longer used outlets or switches.
Mostly a gimmick. A fun gimmick, but a gimmick nonetheless. It really depends on what your budget is. Is approx $20/bulb worth it for a novelty? For me, it was in a few places, but I probably wouldn't do it again. The temperature thing is now a must after having the color and the ambient. I hope to never go back to a single temp bulb again. That's worth $15 premium of the ambient over the cheap white ones.
Get the dimmer switches. 100% worth the money. Then put these guards over your current switches.
Also in an apartment so no permanent solutions for me either. I mounted next to existing switches with removable tape and then magnetic switch covers to prevent accidentally turning off the switches. So far my wife is still a fan
Mitzvah Family 1007 Magnetic Switch and Outlet Cover for Toggle Switches, 6 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DCJYVB4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tl5GAb7ZQQT0P
I had a buddy 3D Print a handful of these for me.
https://www.amazon.com/Switch-Protects-Lights-Circuits-Accidentally/dp/B06XP9M2FT
Make sure you use the Enerwave dual z-wave relays, and not the Monoprice ones. The Enerwave relays work great with Wink. Lots of reports of issues with the Monoprice ones. I had one explode inside the gang box
Also, if all you want is for the controlled outlet to be the bottom one, then there are a few choices that work with Wink:
These are cheaper than using the Enerwave z-wave dual relay to make two controlled outlets, although the latter is more useful in many situations.
I'm in the exact same situation as you with neutral wires. Light bulbs have been great, I just have to make sure I have the doors, windows and motion sensors are working correctly to turn the lights on and off so I don't have people in my house turning the switch off and making the bulb useless. Once to get it working I use these so the switch doesn't get messed with by guests but if a battery dies in a sensor the switch can be got to.
Anddddddd I think I just found the solution.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XP9M2FT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_22-yDb5MV2TNP
or this... Magnetic Switch & Outlet Cover
Not that I'm aware of. Your best bet would be to get a light switch plate that has an additional switch slot or something like this and a lightswitch cover. Put the double plate over the single switch, stick the switch cover over the switch in the ON position, and use the hue dimmer's sticky mount on the blank switch area.
It's a couple extra bucks, but won't leave any marks when all taken down.
Crude Mockup
Cut into it to the surface it's mounted on, use one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-42777-1WA-Surface-Backbox-Single/dp/B0028CIC8U
Yup, you cut a pair of holes in the wall. If you want to throw money at the problem, you can install something like this to get both power and a spot for cabling up there. Or if you're handy, you can install your own outlet and just get some brush plates for your HDMI etc.
https://www.amazon.com/Switch-Protects-Lights-Circuits-Accidentally/dp/B06XP9M2FT
https://www.amazon.com/slp/switch-guard/sog5o5kwrvya7hq
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:69806
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:134995
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1308378
Oh! Gotcha, someone else mentioned the sabbath covers, that would actually be a really slick idea. Check this out here:
https://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Switch-Outlet-Switches-1006/dp/B00YW6KQHK/ref=pd_sim_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00YW6KQHK&pd_rd_r=4EVR9391FKMXCHYCK08Z&pd_rd_w=XGoId&pd_rd_wg=BbdUY&psc=1&refRID=4EVR9391FKMXCHYCK08Z
That would work, but I was thinking something a little easier to install: https://www.amazon.com/Switch-protects-lights-circuits-accidentally/dp/B06XP9M2FT/ref=sr_1_9?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1536608373&sr=1-9&keywords=switch+cover.
I have smart bulbs (GE Wink Bulbs) in all my exterior lights that are connected to a Samsung SmartThings Hub. They all turn on a sundown and turn off at sunrise. Works great.
Put these over the switches and I dont mess with them at all: https://www.amazon.com/Light-Switch-Guard-Cover-Plates/dp/B078PPG44X
You can also get smart switches which operate with any bulb and can still be manually turned on/off at the switch without casing any issues with the automation.
Sorry for the late reply. You can absolutely fix this. What you need is a 2-gang plate, a 4-port insert plate, a blank insert for the other side, and finally four of these f-type inserts.
This will allow you to cleanly terminate all the wiring coming out of that 2-gang box. Then all you'd need to do is get some short patches to go from the amp to the wall plate. You could even use these if you wanted to get real fancy.
Easy, buy this https://www.amazon.com/Switch-Protects-Lights-Circuits-Accidentally/dp/B06XP9M2FT/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541447968&sr=8-3&keywords=switch+guard
This is the best thing I've bought in years
The USB Cover Plate Mount for Google Home Mini: Custom Built-in Holder and Outlet Wall Mount - Designed in the USA by Mount Genie (White, 1-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078JTK838/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Vh44CbDJN1BZ9
Simple solution to a huge design problem.
That's a pretty good chunk of money just for a slightly vintage looking light!
Anyways, as some of the responders said, if you want to follow the letter of code, get a by the book electrician and pay them to do it. The objectors in the comments, stevenj100 and Proper Techniques are A. correct, and B. assholes. It's true that according to code, the only safe place for an electrical splice to take place is inside of a UL-certified junction box, in practice electricians may make this modification if the property owner wants it.
The install you mentioned might be possible, hard to know without a picture of what you are working on. Assume that you are working on finished siding and not pre-construction like in the video... you might be able to work with a 1/2" pan junction box that might look fairly flush.
I just use these:
White Switch Plate Cover Guard Keeps Light Switch ON or Off Protects Your Lights or Circuits from Accidentally Being Turned on or Off. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XP9M2FT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2avDCbS9KW9JM
> I don’t need the lower half of it though, but for the life of me I can’t find anything like what I’m imagining should exist.
What do you mean you don't need the lower half? That's how those kits work. The reality is that "in wall" extension cords don't exist, so you would need the kit you've linked to do what you want without adding an outlet.
That being said, if you don't want to use the kit you've linked and you don't want to add an outlet, just run an extension cord and use these plates. It's not code to run an extension cord in the wall, but your house won't burn down as long as you use a properly rated one.
I can't find the USB adapter in the 3rd pic of this Google Home Mini mount anywhere on it's own, so it might be worth it to buy one of those plates for it, then use it for the next version of your plate.
No. You would probably have to replace the box with a deeper box.
USB outlets are typically not compact, because they have 120VAC to 5DC transformer in them. they are already typically a tight squeeze in an existing box.
Here is an 'old work' recessed box .
https://www.amazon.com/Arlington-DVFR1W-1-Recessed-Electrical-Mounting/dp/B002W6ZOR4
The other option is use right angle usb connectors.
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-VCZHS-USB3-0-Converter-Female/dp/B01G8H7I44
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You can get an outlet that looks almost normal that is Z-Wave.
GoControl WO15Z-1 Z-Wave Single Wall Outlet, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JFK1YRE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.CLEzb9P7SVJ7
$30, known brand and compatibility with ST, available today.
The Wemo plug ins are getting better looking too.
Wemo Mini Smart Plug, Wi-Fi Enabled, Works with Amazon Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBI0A6R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SELEzb9ZBAH3N
if it's just a 2 wire switch you can wire nut it and blanket off
but the easier option would just get switch protectors
White Switch Plate Cover Guard Keeps Light Switch ON or Off Protects Your Lights or Circuits from Accidentally Being Turned on or Off. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XP9M2FT/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_yh-ADbT6NH58F
If the location is within the same stud it is pretty easy to run a wire behind the wall to a recessed outlet (with a USB jack)
For example:
https://www.amazon.com/Arlington-DVFR3W-1-Recessed-Electrical-Paintable/dp/B002W6ZOR4?th=1&psc=1
This guy did it with a weather display:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/review/B003FMVQAI/R2NKG4A4DGTXXL/ref=cm_cr_dp_mb_rvw_tr?ie=UTF8
Yes, one sec, they are used in Jewish houses
Edit: example
Magnetic Switch & Outlett Cover for Toggle Switches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002X88GYY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wyqKDbVB1YP7D
For the electronics, look into these things:
http://www.amazon.com/Newer-Technology-Power2U-Outlet-Charging/dp/B0065I114K
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-42777-2WA-Surface-Backbox-Inches/dp/B003AUI374/ref=pd_sim_hi_1
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-80409-W-Wallplate-Standard-Thermoset/dp/B00006JPO6/ref=pd_sim_e_44
These are pretty simple to wire up (google for wall socket wiring instructions).
For the lamp, you might want to take an old lamp you have and take it apart. Build some kind of base to put the electronics into and attach the salvaged lamp on top.
You could use a box like this one to mount it in:
https://www.amazon.com/Arlington-DVFR1W-1-Recessed-Electrical-Mounting/dp/B002W6ZOR4
They make thin pancake boxes for this purpose. I have installed several.
https://www.amazon.com/Westinghouse-Lighting-0103600-Saf-T-Pan-2-Inch/dp/B000DCN8ZY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503190357&sr=8-1&keywords=pancake+ceiling+fan+box
There cheaper at HD as well.
Medium-tech solution: a (http://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Switch-Outlett-Toggle-Switches/dp/B002X88GYY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1345355011&sr=8-2&keywords=Switch+cover)[switch cover] like this one.
Low-tech solution: Change the texture of the "bad" switch in whatever way would be enough for you to feel but not visible enough to bother you--a few scratched lines, a sticker, a piece of sandpaper.
You should consider a replacement outlet such as: http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00JFK1YRE . It looks great and is very easy to replace, even for a novice like me.
You can also buy a blank outlet cover.
Leviton 80714-W 1-Gang No Device Blank Wallplate, Standard Size, Thermoplastic Nylon, Box Mount, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HEHD4A/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_1Dk2DbAA2DRPJ
That's a fair point however, they do sell faceplates that locks the switch in the "on" position. See link Below:
https://www.amazon.ca/Lisols-Mind-Switch-Guards-Security/dp/B07RBTMG78/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=light+switch+lock&qid=1574436143&sr=8-7
I think I'm planning a similar project. I'm not sure what to with the power bricks to keep them out of the way. I think you'll be fine, your crown is going to be 7'6" high in the air so keeping them close to the wall with your crown coming off at a 45 degree angle they will probably not be noticeable. Depends on how tall of crown you're using though too.
You should at least think about using a recessed outlet similar to this one.
https://www.amazon.com/Arlington-DVFR2W-1-Recessed-Electrical-Paintable/dp/B002W6ZOR4?th=1
I don't have any experience with this but I'm planning on approaching it the same way as you.
Good luck, post pics when you get it done!
I used this for an outlet most recemtly:
GoControl WO15Z-1 Z-Wave Single Wall Outlet, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JFK1YRE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WW8iybATX7XG4
This is the plug in lamp dimmer module
GE Lighting Lamp Module with Dimmer Control, Z-Wave, Plug-In, White, Works with Amazon Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMM7E6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2X8iybCTVJ88R
This is the regular switch... Notice this is a "regular" style but you can find it in paddle as well.
GE Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Control Smart Toggle Switch, In-Wall, White, 12727 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGOHM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_d08iybB4CY6HZ
A bit more mundane, but you can order these covers from Amazon;
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YW6KQHK/
Just try one, with the dimmer cranked all the way up. If they're ok, install these to keep power to the bulb.
Now all you need is this.
Sure they're here at Amazon https://amzn.to/2ZI4Nhn. That's the twin pack. You can get 3 packs too. £109 isn't a bad price. Cheapest ever was around £95 on black Friday. So maybe wait til boxing day sales?
If you still have the wires in the electrical box, code says you need to make the wires accessible. You can get a blank plate like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HEHD4A. You can buy them from any Home Depot or Lowe's.
If you are able to remove all the electrical wiring... and I mean completely remove it back to the breaker, not just leaving it inside the walls, then you can remove the electrical box and patch it with some drywall.
I am using MotionDetector and tasker. I guess it is a little hacky in that is a bit complicated to get it just right but it runs on 3 screens and every now and then if it isn't waking up(maybe one screen every week or so), I just reboot. You can google other peoples instructions but I think this is the clearest. Basically it works like MotionDetector looks for motion and triggers tasker to wake up the display. Nice sensitivity settings and stuff. Doesn't need much light.
I bought 10.5" galaxy s tablets on ebay(2560 x 1600 resolution) for $100-150 and mounted to the wall with these(get the 2.0 like the link). I put in recessed outlets behind the tablets and put a light sensitive night light in one of the outlets plugings so it has back lighting. I also put in the outlets with the usb built in and got the 90 degree angled short cords to make it clean.
this outlet works well enough, and I swap out the brush part for a light switch.
Link
I ordered some of these today after them being suggested, should help with training 😂
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DCJYVB4/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503412095&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=shabbat+light+switch+cover&dpPl=1&dpID=51Og0%2BUJp%2BL&ref=plSrch
Low tech solution
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002WQ2UBM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_p3bkDbNK2GC1W
https://www.amazon.com/Mitzvah-Family-Magnetic-Switch-Switches/dp/B002WQ2UBM/
I think you’re looking for one of these
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RBTMG78/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HlQwDbZDYQM0R
I can’t help you with switching scenes, but these covers help keep kids, guests, and spouses from de-powering my hue lights.
Magnetic Switch & Outlett Cover for Toggle Switches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002X88GYY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KH2eAb3V23DAC
Shallow pan box. No idea as to how to get wires to the box.
https://www.amazon.com/Pack-SnapPower-Guidelight-Batteries-Installs/dp/B0727Z2VV2?th=1&psc=1
I moved into an apartment that has no ceiling light but has one plug wired into a switch.
I hate standing lamps and since the room is kind of small, i want to avoid them, so I thought about doing a project.
I bought one Heavy duty extension cord, a ceiling lamp, a round low profile junction box and some drywall screws.
So with my drywall screws, I mounted my junction box, i cut the head of the extension cord, with a multimeter found wich one are the hot, neutral and ground and wired the lamp, hot to black white no neutral and green to ground. Now my lamp is bolted to the junction box. the extension cord is plugged into the wall socket that's wired into the switch. and have a functional lamp.
My question, was this the safest way to go about this or should I do it otherwise??
You said you haven't found a solution to deal with a double gang. Would this work...
Use this to combine the two switches into a single spot:
ENERLITES Double Paddle Rocker...
double rocker
Cover that with something like this to prevent folks from turning off the power to the lights:
cover
Put this in the open spot and use it to control the lights:
White - RunLessWire Friends of Hue
FOH
This is the light switch style: https://www.maxximastyle.com/electrical/single-pole-duplex-toggle-combination-light-switch-white-wall-plates-included-2-pack-MEW-SC200W-02?gclid=CjwKCAjwsIbpBRBNEiwAZF8-z7sGh1G-YgOcPITi6PhcCYKkZEalgBV6cwH7uMPPNsYSsDa89KJOcRoCf8MQAvD_BwE
This is the switch guard I have on the others: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078PPG44X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_muOiDbPSFM4JE
As said, don't dim them. Store the knob and leave it at full brightness. Cover it with a sabbath cover for safety.
https://www.amazon.com/Switch-protects-lights-circuits-accidentally/dp/B06XP9M2FT/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1517699357&sr=8-1&keywords=light+switch+blocker
YBM Home Magnetic Switch & Outlet Cover, White (MF1006) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YW6KQHK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QCAFDbKNFM2C9
They make them for all different types of switches
I added some of these. Great for hallways/bottom of stairs. Slowly upgrading to smart switches and outlets as the need or utility arises.
That's the kind, yeah ... but I recall it as being closer to $350 back when I was looking into this (a few years back). I agree, $600 is a pretty hefty price.
The Pyle ones I was talking about are these guys. They're way more affordable ($30-35 per amp, or $45-50 for the Bluetooth variant), especially if you only need a few. Just keep in mind that Pyle is a budget manufacturer.
Also, they're not very attractive to look at with all the connectors and power cable sticking out in front - when I was considering them, I was thinking of mounting them in a recessed wall box to make up for that somewhat.
https://www.amazon.com/Mitzvah-Family-Magnetic-Switch-Switches/dp/B002WQ2UBM
The Flux component is configurable to adjust brightness over a certain time period. If the bulbs are turned off and then back on, the flux update event will be called in the next cycle and bring the lights to where they need to be (default update cycle is 1 min).
Are you trying to keep the family from manually turning off the switch? Maybe cover them up using a switch cover and a Hue dimmer:
You may also want to consider the Lutron Aurora dimmer when it gets released - it fits on top of an existing toggle switch, locking it in place and allows for control of Hue bulbs:
Things do exist, like this brushed plate, where wires (for sensors or speakers) can come though, but it still looks clean. Many mount them high for in wall speaker installation.
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https://www.amazon.com/Listed-VCE-2-Pack-Single-Brush/dp/B071X8RLJL
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There are also ones with generic holes you can use too: https://www.amazon.com/VCE-Single-Connector-Subwoofer-Port-White/dp/B074T6Q11V/
You could get some of these:https://www.amazon.com/Switch-Protects-Lights-Circuits-Accidentally/dp/B06XP9M2FT/ref=pd_bxgy_60_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B06XP9M2FT&pd_rd_r=28848c2c-dd1f-11e8-a3d1-552a6c0f9979&pd_rd_w=ChFCN&pd_rd_wg=FVCwE&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=6725dbd6-9917-451d-beba-16af7874e407&pf_rd_r=1W59ZG85B8TV0NDGQE0N&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=1W59ZG85B8TV0NDGQE0N
https://www.amazon.com/Mitzvah-Family-Magnetic-Switch-Switches/dp/B002WQ2UBM/
Mitzvah Family Magnetic Switch & Outlet Cover for Flat Modern Switches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002WQ2UBM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rE2WBbZ082DR7
Not to state the obvious but this pretty much the main selling point of smart switches instead of smart bulbs.
If you’re renting or otherwise can’t modify the wiring for some reason, some physical “childproof” cover should work - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XP9M2FT/
Someone needs to make a smart switch cover that replaces the cover on a decora style light switch instead of the current options of replacing the switch or hiding it and sticking a second switch on the wall next to the original.
I've been thinking about getting some of these:
Mitzvah Family 1007 Magnetic Switch and Outlet Cover for Toggle Switches, 6 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DCJYVB4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lD2AzbH4PF96G
Not flat, but magnetic so they can be removed quickly if necessary.
I use these. They're whiter than the picture and flat, but magnetic so won't hold a hue switch. But they do allow easy removal.
Mitzvah Family Magnetic Switch & Outlet Cover for Flat Modern Switches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002WQ2UBM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8Y2Azb31CFHP1
You don't mean these do you??
Just run a long wire through the wall. From computer to monitor. You can use wall plates like this https://www.amazon.com/Listed-VCE-2-Pack-Single-Brush/dp/B071X8RLJL/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1536469420&sr=1-3&keywords=pass+through+wall+plate&dpID=412EFMUa-uL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
https://www.amazon.com/DataComm-45-0001-WH-1-Gang-Recessed-Voltage/dp/B001C4BEOY/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1536469420&sr=1-4&keywords=pass%2Bthrough%2Bwall%2Bplate&th=1
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I just installed my wall mount tablet using an amazon fire hd 10. I started with my wink hub and found this app called home habit which is the only dashboard type app that integates with wink. I have now setup a raspberry pi 3 b+ running hassio and will work on some of those customizations
I linked below everything i used for the install. The wall mount comes with a slim line usb charger built in but also comes with other power options included.
Let me know your thoughts
recessed usb outlet and mounted tablet
the only recessed outlet box that lets you use a usb outlet
3d printed tablet mount
You could always literally remove the switch entirely. You could research the hows and figure it out.
Barring that, get the kind of trinket dish that people use for their dresser detritus and superglue it over the top.
There's also these https://smile.amazon.com/Mitzvah-Family-Magnetic-Switch-Switches/dp/B002WQ2UBM/ref=sr_1_25?keywords=wall+switch+cover&qid=1571603710&sr=8-25 which would probably work great. They're magnetized and stick to the screws. (Superglue is also an option on these if your SO still doesn't pay attention.)
You may also need https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028CIC8U/ if it's not hollow and you want to use a keystone jack
Hue dimmer switches have magnets to stick to the dimmer wallplate, so sure, get a light switch cover, add magnets to it then you're in business.
It won't look elegant and the cover can easily be removed taking he Hue dimmer with it, however.
Something like this perhaps?
YBM Home Magnetic Switch & Outlet Cover (Cover Modern Switches #1006) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YW6KQHK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_oNSPzbSNEXHV0
Surface mounted switch boxes or an in line smart relay (like the fibaro switches or the more diy sonoff type stuff) might work. Having trouble picturing the setup so it’s hard to recommend a specific solution.
I suspect an arc shield might also work for you. If you are a bit handy this guy has some guides on how to put them in and help them blend in: http://www.thejoyofmoldings.com/arc-shield/
Surface mounted box: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028CIC8U
In line switch: https://www.fibaro.com/us/products/switches/
Curious to hear more specifically what you want to do, because it honestly might just be easier to ask for a Cat5 or Cat6 to be run to the ceiling, which you can then use and adapter to make it USB on both ends and have the AC plugin somewhere remote.
Having a plug mounted up in the ceiling with a cord going in it isnt allowed, and you'd be hard pressed to find a recessed box that is big enough to fit a USB brick, that isnt so big that whatever you're wanting to power wont cover it.
A 1G Arlington Recessed Box is probably your best bet for being big enough to for the adapter and whatever extra USB cord you have, but whatever you are powering probably wont cover the entire outlet.
This is probably obvious...and code now requires it...but make sure all your power lines run to the light switches before the load (ie, have access to a neutral wire). Most of the smart switches/dimmers etc require a neutral wire to operate (ie, they must have power all the time, and they relay the loads).
Since you're framing, now would be the easiest time to do wall-mounted TV Power and "behind the wall" conduits, similar to what this product enables: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009VYDHFQ
I agree with the other posters on the Cat6. I'd create a central hub location/utility closet and then run 2 lines of Cat6 to each room/wall likely to have a TV or computer. I can't speak on the Coax because I don't watch cable tv, but it's cheap enough...so why the hell not. Personally, I'd also run 2 lengths of speaker wire to each room as well (for stereo sound in your ceilings or walls). It's way cheaper to run a whole house music system from a central location via passive speakers than it is to say, buy $2,000-3,000+ in Sonos wireless speakers that could cover the same square footage. I think it's nice to have speakers out of sight and out of the way as well. Even if you don't install speakers, run the wire...it's cheap.
It's also nice to wire some outlets into areas that you think might work well for routers or wireless repeaters so that they can be mounted up high and possibly out of sight...without dangling wires. Even better, install a few of these in between the studs where your TV's, computers, routers, etc might go for super clean setups: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-47605-28W-Structured-Media-Center/dp/B0002472KK. Make sure you wire outlets to the boxes so that all the power wires can stay inside the enclosure...
Personally, I think it would be worthwhile to start thinking, researching and planning exactly what features and gadgets you'd like your home to support NOW so that you can install exactly what you need without wasting materials or time on things you may not need...it also helps to work through certain issues, requirements and logistics while your home is most accessible sans insulation and sheetrock...
>An hour of planning can save you 10 hours of doing. - Dale Carnegie
There are purpose-built switch covers for both trditional and Decora style switches, that attach using the existing (or extended) screws on the wall plate. I've used covers like these in several rooms quite successfully.
Just get one of these
It's nice to be able to change a light bulb without having a live socket. A functioning switch is better than a breaker for doing that.
As to what you are trying, what you said you did should have worked. My gut says you pulled something loose in the box. Are there any other wire nuts with pigtails in the box? Getting a voltage tester would help you see what wires are actually hot.
I've used this for both of my wall mount TVs. If you're comfortable running the wiring, it's the way to go - the outlet is a surge suppressor. Just get a cable wall plate for the bottom to feed cables to receiver and you're all set.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009VYDHFQ/
Check out these
https://www.cableorganizer.com/arlington-industries/wire-bushings/
Or
https://www.amazon.com/Listed-VCE-2-Pack-Single-Brush/dp/B071X8RLJL/
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07FYDGD7R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Y6jSCbD2WBFEA
Here are some neat wall plates I recently discovered that might be of interest to you.
For a rental with these switches this is what you need
Mitzvah Family Magnetic Switch & Outlet Cover for Flat Modern Switches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002WQ2UBM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zcTbBbF4NCZVE
Edit: perhaps not. Didn't notice the European style. Sorry I got nothing
I just installed one of these in my front porch light fixture yesterday! Powers a v2 no problem at all. Note that this device is fairly wide so may not fit in every light fixture. It’s pretty tight in mine, to the point that I’m going to install a right angle USB adapter. Also, it obviously adds some to the height of the bulb so it may not work well in shorter fixtures.
Had to get a little creative routing the USB cable but overall I’m pleased with the setup. I leave the wall switch on 24x7x375 and use a dusk to dawn bulb. If you’re worried about accidentally turning off the switch, you can install little covers like these - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XP9M2FT
This one looks like it works for the large flat switches: https://www.amazon.com/Mitzvah-Family-2202-Magnetic-Switches/dp/B01DCCCETM/ref=cm_wl_huc_item
Get one of these and put it over a switch
I just mounted the hue dimmer switch next to the switch, and placed one of these over the switch itself:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002X88GYY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The end result doesn't look nearly as clean however.
I've done this same thing and love it.
A couple of small issues:
Even with those issues, I just love this feature.
I'd recommend https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XP9M2FT?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2
It's what we use over our switch that controls the 1 exterior smart bulb. You CA quickly and easily take it off with nothing but a butter knife.
Duct tape will probably leave adhesive residue.
I had one of those mounts that uses the Google power supply and offsets it off the end of the outlet, but I just replaced it with one of these today.
I already had the USB outlets installed and I like it better.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B078JTK838?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title
I stack a Hue switch on top of a switch cover. Not quite as ugly as sin but leaning that way. I have Decora switches so use a cover like this one.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DCCCETM/ref=yo_ii_pd_dx_gr_3?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01DCCCETM&pd_rd_r=JK4DEH14Z8R0VEAVKDP0&pd_rd_w=uHU31&pd_rd_wg=snY3V&psc=1&refRID=EVV3VDCEE1X1HDM8BG4P
Another option for a more permanent cover is this one.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DUBOSTA/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1499284188&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=light+switch+guard&dpPl=1&dpID=41ah8OXu4pL&ref=plSrch
You could use a smart switch if you wanted to be able to restore power after it was manually turned off but most smart bulbs (including Hue) automatically come on at 100% when power is restored so the user experience isn't great. Plus, in the normal state, turning them on manually takes two presses (off, on).
If local code allows it, you can wire around the switch and only control it with the Hue switches but that means turning off the power to the fixture requires a trip to the breaker box.
So, basically, there are no good solutions. It would be very cool if Hue had a wall switch that integrated a manual override switch with the Hue switch but maybe they don't see a market or it's more complicated than I imagine.
Its been posted already, but I have these all through my apartment. Then a Dimmer switch mounted right next to them.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002X88GYY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's really simple all you need is a flat head screw driver. Even a butter knife would work. Then you get some of these http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002TIHKZE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421072541&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX200_QL40 they are foam and slip over the outlet and then you put the cover back on. It's amazing how much cold air pumps out of outlets on exterior walls.
In case anyone else finds this helpful, the two light switch guards I am considering are this one and also this one.
If anyone is interested in a custom 3D printed holder for the Hue Dimmer that can go over a regular switch (acts like a guard but holds the dimmer as well), let me know and as soon as he has worked out the design I will have him upload the program files (or he can print and ship one to you).
I have almost my entire first floor done and I'm using these until I can get the switches.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002X88GYY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1453585516&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=magnetic+switch+cover
Yes.
Get a 2 gang switch plate (or 1 wider than you currently have) and a switch cover/guard. You can install a 2 gang plate on a 1 gang box with the 2nd gang covering the wall a bit. Attach the dimmer to the unused side of the plate. The Hue dimmer comes with tape on the back and will cover the unused screw holes.
This is much easier, MUCH safer if you don't know what you are doing, and will still allow you to turn the power off if you need to.
I've seen people suggest a metal plate with a blank 2nd gang to take advantage of the magnets on the back if the dimmer.
For the switch cover, I'm using a magnetic cover:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002X88GYY/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1479335243&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=switch+cover&dpPl=1&dpID=31rKEqw%2BSZL&ref=plSrch
The hue dimmer's base takes up more than 1/2 of the switch plate, so I had to mount it with about a millimeter hanging off the side. Barely noticeable, but next time I'll use something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NCV1SK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479335243&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=switch+cover&dpPl=1&dpID=31HrCmi9fBL&ref=plSrch
Ditch the surface mount cat6 box for a standard white/ivory plastic surface mount electric box that you can find at any Home Depot or electronics place.
It'll probably be large enough to cover that opening and then you can use a standard keystone plate on it...
Edit, link amazon:
https://amzn.com/B0028CIC8U
Different styles also available <$5 at same link.
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Some additional sizes here: http://amzn.com/B00006JPO6 & http://amzn.com/B00002NAQY
The stuff we use at work last about an hour at best. It picks up quickly after exposure but that is going to get worse over time. As far as I am aware there is no glow in the dark tech that works indefinitely except radioactive materials, and I don't think you want the cancer side effect to your lighting.
There is nothing like real lights. I use this in my hallway for the kids: https://www.amazon.com/Pack-SnapPower-Guidelight-Batteries-Installs/dp/B0727Z2VV2
I also have one of these https://www.amazon.com/outlet-extender-night-charger-cradle/dp/B0782K64PF/ref=sr_1_43?keywords=outlet+splitter+with+light&amp;qid=1550343977&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-43 in both the bathroom and kitchen. PLenty of light for adults and kids at night.
Possibly something like this would be appropriate. Inexpensive and simple. Magnetic Switch & Outlett Cover for Toggle Switches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002X88GYY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_d2ERAbR54HQAG