Best electronic accessories & supplies according to redditors

We found 63,570 Reddit comments discussing the best electronic accessories & supplies. We ranked the 15,404 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Audio & video accessories
Office electronics accessories
Battery chargers & accessories
Electronic mounts
Electronics cables
Electronics power protection products
Electronics > Accessories & Supplies > Installation Services

Top Reddit comments about Accessories & Supplies:

u/BPNave · 2066 pointsr/pics

It's not pretty lol. We tried to zip tie everything together to make it at least understandable haha

EDIT: Hijacking this post since there are a LOT of common questions. Oh and /u/smilenataliew is the wife :)

FAQ:


>How did you connect everything to the TV/What adapters did you use?

NES through Gamecube (bottom 4): We have a 4-input composite switcher (those Yellow/Red/White cables) between the N64 and Gamecube, connected to our TV's 3.5mm composite port (which looks like a headphone jack), which we convert with cables like these. We do not recommend a composite to HDMI converter, as the output (might) look garbled from older systems (it did for us).

Wii: Component cables to HDMI converter, then into a remote controlled HDMI switcher (switcher and controller can both be seen to the left of Kirby Amiibo/the Wii)

WiiU & Switch: HDMI to the same HDMI switcher

>Don't the controllers just fall out when you open the case? How are they secured?

The NES controller is resting on a WiiU controller stand, oddly enough!
The SNES controller is the most finnicky. It's slightly leaning back on its own cords, but it's hard to get it to stay put.
The N64 controller is leaned against a stack of N64 games--it's definitely the system my wife and I have the most games for already!
The Gamecube controller is leaning against two other stacked gamecube controllers.
The Wii controller is just just leaning up against a thick piece of cardboard (more cardboard is also holding up the NES and SNES systems since the bottom of their doors would block view of the systems otherwise. My wife intends to wrap all cardboard with contact paper to make it all more decorative, she's very crafty!)
The WiiU has the same controllers as the Wii, except for the screen one, which is on a stand that actually charges the unit while it sits on top of the WiiU system!
The Switch controller actually stands on its own with the joy cons connected to them, but I've decided to actually show the charging station we bought with the joy cons connected to it so that they'll always be charged and ready to go!

>Where are the games?

Behind the controllers! In fact the N64 controller is leaning on a stack of them.

>Cable management? Do you have controller extenders?

Lots of zip ties in the back, and as for controller cables, we bought ~100 of those velcro straps for cords so we can wrap them up for neat display storage without wrapping the cords around the controllers. We also have extension cords for all corded controllers since the consoles don't exactly come out of the unit!

>Where can I get the display case?

It's a piece of furniture so it's a bit expensive, but it's definitely what we wanted after searching for a couple weeks! It's on Amazon

>You could have just emulated it all!

I love having and playing on the original consoles, but emulation is also awesome!

>Where's the Virtual Boy?

It doesn't connect to the TV so I didn't feel the need to get it for this project, but I DO want it for my collection! (Also kids should wait a bit before they play with a 3D device, even the 3DS)

>Where's Nintendo's even older console, the Color TV-Game?/Where's the 64DD?

Those were released Japan only, but I might still want to get them! I believe the controller and the console for Color TV-Game are both one unit, and space is limited, so it might be tough to integrate it if I want to get it!

>Where's the TV? CRT??

Mounted on the wall above the mantle. Sorry, no CRT...yet.

>PHOTOSHOPPED!/I swear I saw this before!

lol why would anyone photoshop this? Definitely real. I'll provide a few more images if I can. And definitely my setup! Though I'm sure I'm not the first to do something similar.

>lol fake niece

The niece and story are real, but if I'm being perfectly honest this is more for me than her haha

u/Paroxysm_Rancor · 588 pointsr/LifeProTips

What is a "Cable binder" ? A zip tie according to my very grueling research.


Velcro ties work much better. I use these specific cable ties on my racks as well as workstations. They look nice, secure, and easily removable when adding, subtracting, or re-routing.

https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Black-2-Inch-91140/dp/B001E1Y5O6

u/RabbleRouser27 · 164 pointsr/Cooking

https://www.amazon.com/Food-Lab-Cooking-Through-Science/dp/0393081087

Best cookbook you can get with everything youre looking for. The guy was a chemist I believe and decided to combine it with his love of cooking. It tells you why cooking an egg a certain way will give a certain result. What happens the the proteins inside the egg, what cookware to use, how to improve already popular dishes. Great shit in store for you my friend.

u/Evictus · 156 pointsr/askscience

Also, The Food Lab is a good book to read as well, has similar information on cooking I assume as the book you've suggested. I actually have it next to my bed right now and it's a pretty good cookbook / reference.

u/snipzy · 145 pointsr/buildapcsales

These are better
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cpS0AbD1AE3AR

100 instead of 50, Velcro brand, great reviews. $6.88

u/ender4171 · 99 pointsr/Cooking

For learning methods and the science behind cooking I would say The Food Lab by J Kenji Lopez-Alt. It is a textbook of cooking methods, analysis, and expliantion of the science of how cooking works and how to get the best (or just different) results from recipes. It also contains a ton of excellent recipes.

For just recipes, I would say The New York Times Cookbook by Craig Claiborne. It has hundreds of incredible recipes from a variety of cultures. Some of them are quite complex, but most are very approachable for cooks of all levels. It is not an advanced cookbook for the most part, but has a lot of solid classic recipes. One does need a basic grasp of cooking terms and techniques to get the best out of it.

u/teckademics · 84 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I was like, damn that is clean. Then I seen all the cables crammed under the desk. The only thing you need is some Polyethylene wire tube and some cable velcro and you're set for life.

u/xenokira · 80 pointsr/gaming

Better than zip ties, use Velcro straps. This way, if you need to swap cables in or out, you're not having to clip your zipties and use new ones. These are the Velcro straps I use (and they work great!): http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001E1Y5O6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1419952299&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

u/itomeshi · 78 pointsr/homelab

Zipties suck.

I've been using Velcro cable ties for a few years now. It's easy and cheap to pull out or ad in another cable. I find it helps more than you think because it reduces the friction required to make it look right.

I also use sleeves like this and this, a few wraps, and raceways. For raceways, I have this, but I'm not 100% happy with it and may switch to a basket one of these days.

I also see a lot of cables that are way too large for the space. Pick up a few short cables and remove that bulk. You don't need to go crazy with this, just pick the worst offenders.

Beyond that, focus on cleaning up the points where cables join or split. A loop hook or brace in the right spot can really clean things up. Try to have a single point where cables go to the window/closet. Have a single point at the desk that all cables going into the PC go through.

u/WadeMoreau · 68 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

People already linked the other two $150 stereo receivers from Best Buy but there's also this one that you should be able to price match to Amazon for $130 (or just buy it from Amazon).

If you don't want a gigantic amplifier I also recommend the Topping MX3 for $94 at Amazon.

You're also going to need some speaker wire which is probably overpriced at Best Buy and some type of cable to get sound from your computer to an AV receiver if you don't want to use bluetooth.

u/Iphotoshopincats · 65 pointsr/gifs
u/Spynde · 62 pointsr/buildapc

I would recommend this: DAC/AMP in one unit for under $100.

Flio E10K

u/WinterCharm · 60 pointsr/TrollXChromosomes

You know those velcro cable ties? my sister uses those on "many straps" to bundle them up into one strap, then unvelcros them when she's done putting on a dress/top/etc.

https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Black-2-Inch-91140/dp/B001E1Y5O6

There' only a couple of bucks.

u/the_blue_wizard · 50 pointsr/audiophile

A decent system if it all works. The turntable is just OK, but perhaps that's all you need.

The Key to a turntable is the Tone Arm and Cartridge (stylus/needle). Your turntable appears to be a P-Mount, meaning the entire Cartridge assembly just plugs into the tone arm. There are many replacement P-Mount cartridge available. The tone arm look like a generic DJ tone arm similar to that found on Stanton, Technics, Audio Tecnica, and Reloop. That's not the absolute best, but still decent; no problems.

http://www.needledoctor.com/Audio-Technica-92ECD?sc=2&category=16684

http://www.needledoctor.com/Audio-Technica-311EP?sc=2&category=16684

This appears to be a more consumer version of Technics DJ turntables. And assuming it is in good condition, and well oiled, it is probably very good considering the price you paid.

Generally Technics are considered good equipment, and they are now re-entering the audio market again with a new line of equipment.

You can give us the model number of the amp and we will look up specs on it, or you can simply use Google to look up information on the amp. You should be able to determine the power, and the range of years in which it was made. If the amp is at least ~50w/ch, then it is most certainly worth having and using assuming it is in good working condition.

It is difficult to see the Amp Model number but the closest I can determine is SU-V78 - 100w/ch to 8 ohms.

http://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/technics/su-v78.shtml

Oddly the Technics SU-V76 is also 100w/ch -

http://www.highqualitymanuals.com/images/large/products/HD/HD84//HD84_2.jpg

The AM/FM Tuner should still work, and will pick up radio stations just fine even with the most basic antenna.

The Cassette Player is an Antique unless by chance you still have a stack of Cassettes available to play.

The CD Player, assuming it still works should be fine as the standard for CD has been locked into place since its inception.

The speakers are fine; good sided. The key with older speakers is the Surrounds, the foam or rubber ring that attaches the actual cone to the frame. If foam these can deteriorate, and sometimes disintegrated over time. Gently touch or rub your finger on the surround and see if it is gritty or crumbling. If so the surrounds can be replaced for a fairly modest fee.

Given that you got this for FREE, there is one other aspect you could consider. It is possible to use a Stereo system to enhance the movie watching experience very considerably. However, modern TV do not have analog audio outputs, most have Digital Optical Audio out, though a few have Coaxial.

Given that you got a pretty nice system for free, you could spend some money, assuming you are into movie watching, and get a DAC (digital to analog converter) to allow you to plug the TV into the Stereo. These can range from about $25 for just the basic DAC, up to about $500 for a more complex multi-input DAC.

You can see a range of possibilities here -

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Delectronics&field-keywords=DAC

The output of the TV is limited to a 48k Sample Rate about CD quality, so a very basic $25 DAC is probably adequate if you are not too serious.

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1468898121&sr=1-2&keywords=DAC

Some thing like this will give you one channel that is either Optical or Coaxial, another Coaxial only Channel, and USB-PC for connecting directly to a computer.

https://www.amazon.com/Cambridge-Audio-Azur-DacMagic-100/dp/B0078Q35PG/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1468898121&sr=1-10&keywords=DAC

The speakers, though I can really determine, appear to have at least 10" woofer, and they should sound pretty good. I think this will make a fine movie and music system.

u/WalkingTurtleMan · 49 pointsr/IAmA

I'm not Mr. AB, but my go-to cookbook is The Food Lab by J. Kenji López-Alt. It's my favorite for a couple of reasons:

  1. It's freaking huge. Seriously, it will take up a lot of room on your self.
  2. It covers a huge array of topics. Whole chapters devoted to breakfast, roasts, salads, veggies, etc.
  3. It tackles the science behind the recipe. Why does it taste so good? Why do you need so much salt? It turns out that for thousands of years humans just did trial and error and found that x amount of y made it tasty. Kenji figures out what happens on a molecular level and perfects the recipes based on that. He also tells you how YOU can recombine these base on what you have lying around.
  4. There's a lot of relatively quick and easy meals, as well as a few big meals like Thankgivings as well.

    On top of that, the author is now experimenting with a Youtube channel!

    Hopefully this will make dinner a bit easier for you.
u/uid_0 · 48 pointsr/AskCulinary

I would recommend The Food Lab by J. Kenji Lopez-Alt. It covers a lot of techniques and dishes-out the science behind them.

u/Hott_Soupp · 44 pointsr/starterpacks

ha. You buy gold plated?!
The real quality comes from [diamond](http://www.AudioQuest.com/ Diamond 16m (52.49 feet) Braided HDMI Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eVLZzbM83Z16H)

u/MrDanbourineMan · 44 pointsr/IWantToLearn

If you’re willing to spend a little money, buy The Food Lab by J. Kenji Lopez Alt. It is amazing. It’s a beautiful book with detailed documentation of experimentation with various methods / times / ingredients.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/0393081087/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.GhIAb1F6S6CG

Edit: misspelled dude’s name

u/NoraTC · 42 pointsr/AskCulinary

Here is a nice backgrounder on the sciency side of the chemical effects - and it should be a basic part of your understanding of salt effects. The Food Lab's chapter on the science of ground meat opened a whole new avenue of cooking fun for me, just by understanding why when you add how much salt to ground meat yields totally different products. You can generally access the basic ideas by googling "food lab", including the ground meat product you want to make as a google term, if you do not have access to the book. I commend buying it, because it is the kind of reference work that cries out for annotating and browsing.

...and now for a much less technical reasons: (1) salt lightly early on, because you may want to concentrate stuff down and (2) if there is some salt there, you can easily say, "that is under salted but what else does it need?" - with no salt on board the lack of salt is all you will notice.

Balance out final heat, acid, umami, finishing herb stuff, all of which can affect final salt preference, then correct the salt if needed.

u/flickerkuu · 39 pointsr/technology

Yup, I like when my HDCP DRM circuit on the bigscreen I have broke, and I couldn't watch LEGAL purchased HDMI content (like Netflix off my Roku).

Instead, only torrents and "non legit" content would play through the laptop over hdmi at 720 and 1080p.

Something I paid for broke, and made me unable to watch high rez content that I PAID for.

If it breaks, it should stop defeating piracy, and not stop defeating legal use. The people who make this crap are idiots.

I finally bought a $15 Splitter that had the side effect of stripping their shitty copy protection out, and now I can watch ALL my media- especially the LEGALLY PAID FOR CONTENT.

Thanks for nothing DRM.


u/DustForVomit · 38 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Hey n00b...hit me up when you're ready to step up your game. You haven't lived until you step up to a $13,500 AudioQuest Diamond braided HDMI cable, wrapped around some $12,500 Naturelle Plus Maxi Pads with Wings. Be sure to get the ones with wings, as they add flavor. Us "pros" call them "flavor wings".

You're not really a serious vaper until you've stepped up your vape game like the rest of us adults.

u/throwbackfinder · 38 pointsr/britishproblems

Ok, maybe not amazons basics but you can acquire a cable which...somehow someone will buy.

Behold, beyond your wildest dreams does the ultimate ripoff exist


____

BUT WAIT

Could it possibly get any worse? YES

u/milehighjessa · 36 pointsr/howto

Oh!!! I just read about this in The Food Lab!

Directly from the book: “Eggshells are porous: they lose about 4 microliters of water a day to evaporation while simultaneously taking air into the space between the sheep and the inner membrane near the fat end. In very fresh eggs, the air space is tiny and the egg will sink to the bottom of the bowl and lie on its side. As eggs get older, the air space will grow, so old eggs will sink and then stand on their points as the air in the larger end tries to rise. If you’ve got an egg that floats, it’s probably past it’s prime and should be discarded.”

The book really is an incredible read, whether you cook a lot or not. I would absolutely recommend it.

Edit: between the SHELL not sheep

u/Due_rr · 33 pointsr/AskCulinary

The food lab. You can also buy Modenist Cuisine at Home.

u/psxsquall · 32 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I'm glad I had an extra $13,500 laying around for the 16m one. And silly me had the side with the down arrow connected to my monitor. Everything started working once I switched both ends.

u/dhamilt9 · 31 pointsr/cookingforbeginners

Surprised no one has mentioned The Food Lab given how popular it is on Reddit. Not only is every recipe in it a certified banger, it also does a great job walking you through the scientific reasons behind each recipe, so in addition to the recipes in the book you gain a ton of skills and techniques applicable when coming up with your own recipes.

u/FriendVriendin · 31 pointsr/GifRecipes

What book?

edit: The Food Lab. Thanks u/Imnotveryfunatpartys

u/crustillion · 31 pointsr/buildapcsales
u/Wail_Bait · 25 pointsr/techsupportgore

I haven't seen anyone do this in years. It was somewhat common about 10 years ago when good headphones were becoming popular, but external DACs and headphone amplifiers didn't really exist. I mean, yeah, headphone amps have been around since at least the 60's, but they were always expensive audiophile or recording studio products. So for PC audio you either modified your sound card or built a CMoy amp, because the cheapest actual headphone amp was $1000.

Also, a good DAC is about $20, not $120. A good headphone amp is around $100 though so it would be $120 for both, but most headphones do not need an amp.

u/super_cheeky · 24 pointsr/femalefashionadvice

For anyone shopping for a good home chef, I would recommend The Food Lab. It's got a cult-like following for a reason; there's even a subreddit—r/seriouseats

u/AlexTehBrown · 24 pointsr/Cooking

The Food Lab!!!

Techniques are explained really well. It doesn't just tell you what to do, it tells you why to do it. There are good recipes, but the best part is that you learn the howsand whys, which make the skills transferable and it will bring your cooking to a new level. It is designed for home cooks, and Kenji is the best, you can't go wrong.

u/myshoesarebrown · 23 pointsr/MealPrepSunday

Thanks for all the great comments and compliments! Woke up to a full inbox. To answer a few of the questions:

  1. Here is the link for the containers on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N2BPQC3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  2. Recipes:
    1. Pasta Salad with dijon vinagrette, olives, capers, shredded mozzerella and sundried tomatoes
    2. Black eyed pea salad with red onion, celery and ceasar dressing.
    3. The egg salad, roasted broccoli with bread crumbs, and marinated kale salad are all from The Food Lab book.
  3. I'm doing this mostly for health reasons. Not to lose weight, but just to eat better. I work in a hospital and the cafeteria food is pretty unhealthy (oh the irony). I have very little self control when I go there, and I wind up getting a slice of pizza or chicken tenders or something equally unhealthy.
u/SirEDCaLot · 23 pointsr/DataHoarder

Nice idea

Get yourself some velcro ties and do some cable management. That's the difference between a 'mess of wires under the floor' and a 'holy fuck cool looking hidden computer shit under the floor'...

u/Rayansaki · 22 pointsr/Games

There is such a thing as "zero" latency, but only with AudioQuest Diamond HDMI Cable, found here. (Technically, it has negative latency since it uses time warping technology).

It is a bit pricier than your average cable, but it comes with free shipping.

u/_id10terror_ · 21 pointsr/homelab
  1. Toss the Zips and use Velcro, so you can add\remove cables as time passes. (https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Reusable-Fastening-Organizing/dp/B001E1Y5O6).
  2. Mount Chassis under the desk with something like this (https://www.amazon.com/HumanCentric-Adjustable-Computer-Mounts-Holder/dp/B079RZBK1Y)
  3. Mount UPS to wall with something like this (https://www.amazon.com/HumanCentric-Computer-Adjustable-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B07P83J1H8).
  4. Wall mount a shelf for the network gear. A plus side is it is rack-mountable so if you ever go that direction it is still useful to you (https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Circulation-Cantilever-Universal-PLRSTN14U/dp/B01HTG4WHY). That Pyle one is 10" deep and a great value for the money, but they have many options and depths on Amazon, just search for "Rack Mount Shelf". Use the vents in the rack with some velcro to tie down the gear and cables neatly.
  5. Whenever possible, route low and high voltage separately. Use either your typical cable raceways, or something like these adjustable cable straps that can be mounted by screws or adhesive. (https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Self-Adhesive-mounts-Optional-management/dp/B07P1RNP5B)

    Last piece of advice.... Let your EdgeRouter breathe... don't stack stuff on top of the poor thing. :)
u/Aari_G · 21 pointsr/breakingmom

I got part one (part one!) of my gift this week! Not near my phone to take a picture, but it's this bad boy! I'm fucking stoked, I love Serious Eats and it's gonna be fucking awesome to have an actual physical cookbook I can leaf through instead of bullshit allrecipes and stupid mommy blogs where you have to read through twenty pages of stupid sanctimommy bullshit before you even get to the recipe!

And holy shit, it's HUGE! It talks about everything! There's chapters on pasta, steak, chicken, all the fun stuff! And there's conversion charts right inside the cover so I don't need to ask google how much a cup of flour weighs (for the thirtieth fucking time!)

I love it! <3

u/Reeces_Pieces · 21 pointsr/GrassHopperVape

Most important things would probably be

1.) Hold it upside down when you clean the main chamber by swabbing with a q-tip dipped in ISO.

2.) Use a high % ISO. 91% or higher is best. 71% isn't terrible, but avoid anything lower. (I saw at Walmart they had 50%, like what the actual fuck, who wants to pay for 50% water?)

3.) Let the thing COMPLETELY DRY after cleaning. Take it apart and let it air dry for like at least 30 minutes.

4.) I highly recommend getting an external Nitecore charger and some extra batteries, but if you do use the cable I wouldn't recommend leaving it unattended. It even says in the manual to not let it charge unattended and plug it into a surge protector. You want to be there to unplug it in case something fucks up.

With the external chargers you won't have to worry about that. Leaving batteries unattended on a Nitecore charger is safe because they are loaded with safety features and come from a very reputable company. Also, you can charge up to 4 batteries at a time and still use a different battery in your Hopper.

2 battery slots; 3 LED lights display: http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-i2-Intellicharge-Charger-Battery/dp/B0096U26QQ

4 battery slots; 3 LED lights display: http://www.amazon.com/NITECORE-Intellicharge-universal-battery-Charger/dp/B00KBFZDI8

2 battery slots; digital display: http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-Charger-Universal-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00KW2ZDJO

4 battery slots; digital display: http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-Integrated-Displays-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00L1XYX4Y


5.) Don't soak the Silicone condom in ISO unless you are OK with it turning a yellow/brown color. Just swab it with a Q-tip dipped in ISO.

6.) If something isn't working right like the straight to blue issue or it isn't heating up quite as much as it used too, then look at the battery contact on your back-end. If there is black gunk on the contact, carefully swab it with a Q-tip dipped in 91% ISO. Also, make sure the threads on the back are clean. Let it dry completely before using.

7.) Never ever ever ever let air be pushed into it. Like don't blow into it.



Also, Idk if you have heard of delta3dstudios and their awesome attachments yet, but their funnel that is designed for the Grasshopper is simply amazing. Makes loading a cinch and fits the GH perfectly and it is only $7(it was $8 when I got it). They also make other accessories for the GH as well as for other vapes.

u/LFKhael · 20 pointsr/buildapc

100 pack for $5. I added them right back to my want list almost immediately after I opened the package.

u/AShiddyGamer · 19 pointsr/pcmasterrace

That works too. You can get a 100-pack on Amazon for $10. Don't think I'd want to use velcro on internals, however.

u/X28 · 19 pointsr/AskCulinary
u/_Keo_ · 18 pointsr/motorcycles

He got a Duc. Buy him a tool kit!! (Don't crucify me!)

But seriously...buy him a roll of velcro zip ties: Amazon link
You have no idea how useful these things are until you need them. They are reusable, work in the wet, don't mark anything, can be strung together, and they don't look shit.

I also second the emergancy tire kit: Amazon again

u/Bob_Fillington · 17 pointsr/gifs

this one cost 13,000

u/djscsi · 17 pointsr/DJs

Learn how to properly roll cables over-under. This especially applies to long cables like AC extension cords, XLR cables, etc. Doing this type of wrapping in the OP will fuck up your cables pretty quickly if you use them a lot - again, especially when it comes to things like long power cords. Here's a quick demo video.

Also these velcro cable ties are great. Put them on everything you wrap and unwrap frequently.

u/ryesmile · 17 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Make sure it is one of the very high quality ones.
Like this

u/jdvbelle · 16 pointsr/oculus

> Price "cheaper than a cable"

That's not too dificult

u/holtenberg · 16 pointsr/pcmasterrace

But please, continue with this type of reviews.

u/nailz1000 · 16 pointsr/CableManagement

People keep recommending zipties and I'm just like ya'll should be using velcro.

u/KoreaKoreaKoreaKorea · 16 pointsr/buildapc

$30 DAC - Link - Please know these aren't game changers, it's only offering better quality sound than your motherboard. If your headphones or speakers aren't that great, it's not doing to do much. Weakest link type of thing. If your headphones suck, these wont help. But if you have a decent set of phones, many people have sworn by these.

$75 DAC - Link - More expensive, better sound output. Again, should be paired with even higher quality sound gear. $100+ speakers/headphones.

$115 DAC - My Dac - Link - I needed a dac with a little power. I use speakers with my setup instead of headphones. This one is 2x25. It's honestly the most anyone should need for a 2.0 system.

$80 Speakers - Link - These are mine. I love them. Best combined $200 I've spent. Instead of a CPU that will need to be replaced in two years, these will out last many builds if I take care of them. The reviews are through the roof compared to the price. And I'd have to agree.

There are a million reviews about the topping DAC + Micca speakers. Things feel more immersive. I think that's the simplest way to put it.

u/Danielsydeon · 15 pointsr/ShittyTechDeals

Hard. Like the diamonds used in the best HDMI cable ever! Only $13499.75! Shipping only $3.99! Get yours now at https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ

u/GoingOnEmpty · 15 pointsr/GirlGamers

Aw thank you! (:

It's all about personal preference as to what you want to use, but I used Velcro cable ties, cable sleeves, and sticky cable clamps for both my battlestation and my TV/console station. I bought these in particular and they do just the trick for me at very low cost.

Ties: VELCRO Brand ONE WRAP Thin Ties | Strong & Reusable | Perfect for Fastening Wires & Organizing Cords | Black, 8 x 1/2-Inch | 100 Count https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_l3bJBbHE1JZZS

Sleeves: 20" Cable Management Sleeve with Free Zip Ties https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MR6QQLR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Clamps: eBoot Adjustable Cable Clips Adhesive Nylon Wire Clamps, Black, 50 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYO307S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_J3bJBbRA9GWRQ

Stick some clamps behind your desk and down the edges of the desk legs to run the wires and cords along them. Just be warned that the residue may stick and might peel off paint or wood, so take caution if you want to tear them off. I'm sure you can find better ones that don't potentially damage your desk, but with proper removal care, you should be fine.

I like the velcro straps because they can easily be adjusted, removed, and reused. They're also versatile for any other random cables you want to store.

EDIT: Added some pictures of the back where the cables are to show you how messy and hectic it is.

https://imgur.com/a/Zqin1bj

u/mr_droopy_butthole · 14 pointsr/IdiotsFightingThings

That's what I say. These non-grilling fuckboys don't know. You can buy a grill like that for $600-700 and you can also buy one that looks like this for $2000.

You can probably even get the exact same one from 2 different retailers.

this is a $14,000 hdmi cable. There's a sucker born every minute

u/Boops_McGee · 14 pointsr/gamecollecting

Personally I use these cable ties with this wrapping method.

Edit: wow, I didn't expect a response. I'm glad others do this as well. Some may think it's overkill, but I want my stuff to last a very long time.

u/theknyte · 13 pointsr/techsupportgore

$1000? That's entry level. Try this guy.

u/warheat1990 · 13 pointsr/hardware

Don't cheap out on HDMI cables, get those diamond grade cable from amazon.

u/kit-08 · 13 pointsr/malelivingspace

velcro cable ties would also help to organize your cables.

u/PM_ME_HOT_DADS · 13 pointsr/specializedtools

Been using these in my home and they've been great

u/Malatros · 13 pointsr/IWantToLearn

I don't know a lot about baking, but one of my friends does and she recommended the below book.

The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science https://www.amazon.com/dp/0393081087/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CkmZxb6RN2F39

Also, there is a great show called Good Eats I recommend for this. :)

u/K_U · 13 pointsr/humblebundles

Nothing particularly good in this bundle.

If you want take up cooking and treat yourself, I would give my highest personal recommendation to The Food Lab and Bravetart. They are great because they go over technique and fundamentals and provide a good base that you can build from once you get more comfortable in the kitchen. Once you hit that point The Flavor Bible is also a great resource for experimentation.

u/QuipA · 13 pointsr/headphones

You can connect the Magni with a 3.5mm>RCA cable to the line out (green port) of the motherboard. Mobo audio should be at 100% and only the knob on the amp controls the volume. If that gives you clean sound without any distortion or constant electrical noise, you don't need to get a DAC.

u/steadylit · 12 pointsr/EDM

Everyone here is making this so unnecessarily complicated. I just picked up DJing last year myself and it's not hard to start at all. I did quite a bit of research on what DJ controller would be the best for someone who is just starting, but also wants to have something more than a simple mixer.

  1. Build a music library and download Serato

  2. Import your music library and organize it to your liking.

  3. I bought a Pioneer DDJ SB2 and it's awesome. You can do really basic stuff but at the same time you have the ability to do some higher level mixing as well.

  4. While you wait for your controller to arrive, watch this https://www.youtube.com/playlist?annotation_id=annotation_2381793899&feature=iv&list=PLk1VCXHnvPLDLbKTvHacpo6tQDzp4OS38&src_vid=W1OCHTWqc_w. It's a full on tutorial on how to use your controller along with Serato.

    Good luck and have fun! It's a blast to get into

    I FORGOT you obviously need a laptop and some speakers. Any speakers will do, just make sure it's RCA output. Here is a cheap converter if you currently have a 3.5mm output.
u/SamaMaBich · 12 pointsr/mildlyinteresting

> just because you're paying more for it doesn't mean it's better

Are you saying this cable isn't worth it?

u/vaportini · 12 pointsr/buildapc

I believe these ties are what you're referring to. I bought them for cable management behind my entertainment center, and ended up also using for cable management in my pc build. They worked great!

u/BoopityBoop1 · 12 pointsr/GirlGamers

Honestly the best thing you could do for your setup right now is cable management. You can get reusable velcro zip ties from Amazon or Walmart or someplace like that. I’d also recommend getting little figures or plushies of your favorite characters to add some more of your personality to the area

u/LeFrancoisDillinger · 12 pointsr/cordcutters

https://www.amazon.com/RCA-Compact-Outdoor-Antenna-ANT751E/dp/B0024R4B5C

This is all you need for your UHF/VHF needs. It picks up all local affiliates: NBC, CBS, ABC, FOX, and CW.
RCA also has a Signal Finder app that will show you where to point it for maximum reception.

I cancelled DirectTV Now when Sling picked up Discovery. Now Sling lost Fox Sports SW. I’m probably going to head back to cable.

Also, you are not dumb. Good luck!

u/sequence_9 · 12 pointsr/PS4

I'd highly recommend this dac if you care about sound quailty. It is doing an amazing job for the money.

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_107_tr_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KH2BW8ZS5XZQCS2VPB7K

edit: sorry this dac will only work for base ps4 and ps4 pro owners.

u/Mattyuh · 11 pointsr/techsupportgore

I have about 400 velcro zip ties in my bag that I use instead of normal zip ties. The guy after always appreciates it.

https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Reusable-Fastening-Organizing/dp/B001E1Y5O6

u/WhatPlantsCrave · 11 pointsr/cableporn

The "Type" of cable fastener absolutely does make all of the difference depending upon the application.

In many applications cable or "zip" ties are not allowed due to toxic fumes given off when they are heated. Many users tend to over tighten cable ties thus damaging the cable jacket or conductor vs velcro.

In the case of aircraft or high vibration scenarios the type of cable fastener used is highly regulated.

In the end remember there are Redditors from around the globe here that are not only home users but also many that work with cable fasteners day to day in the work that they do. I have been known to post a link to this set of velcro from Amazon to those that complain about price.

If this were my setup I would cringe at the crimped coax cable. It's totally worth redoing, using a compression fitting instead. Those tools can be found at your local hardware store, online or just befriend a cable guy and hand him a few bucks to remake the end. It will take him a minute or less.

Thx OP for the post, IMO anything better than a nest of cables is better in the end. I highly prefer velcro.

u/Bachstar · 11 pointsr/seriouseats

He's the culinary director of the blog Serious Eats. Used to work in the Cooks Illustrated test kitchen before starting out on his own. He's very beloved on Reddit, partly because he's often participating in community threads, partly because he's a fantastically detailed & process-oriented chef who helps you understand why it's important to do X step or use X ingredient.

Link to his book which is also awesome.

u/fancy_pantser · 11 pointsr/AskCulinary

I think you are starting from the wrong place if you think it will be like Texan chili [con carne]. Mole negro and soft cheeses are the main culinary exports of Oaxaca and they are fantastic. This is one of my two favorite culinary regions in Mexico!

Mole negro
First off, the famous mole negro using the regional pasilla de Oaxaca pepper (aka "chile negro" when dried). There are many recipes for that; find one that has ingredients you can pick up at your local Mexican supermarket or order online. You can cook meat (often chicken) in it or use it to make enchiladas enmoladas. They're soft, cheesy, and the rich, black sauce has a great pepper flavor but also a complex mixture of spices that lend subtle notes to the flavor like a fine wine. Every abuelita in Oaxaca has her own special variation on the recipe.

Traditional meal: nopales + meat + oaxaqueño cheese + guajillo sauce
Another personal favorite coming straight out of restaurants in Oaxaca is often called the Conquista Plate. As you can see, a thin steak over grilled cactus, Oaxaca cheese and chile guajillo sauce. The cactus is nopales; learn to love it's mild flavor, as it's in tons of authentic Mexican dishes. Guajillos are a fairly mild chili with a distinct, tart taste. They're also used all over Mexico so you should be able to find them pretty easily. Oaxaca is famous for cheese, so you can also easily find that in most Mexican markets.

Recipe for the sauce (use only guajillos and ancho). You can find your own instructions on grilling nopales and the steak or whatever meat you want to go with it. That red sauce can basically go on anything.

Chile verde: more like a SW "chili"
Although it's not from further south than Chihuahua and Sonora and has become a staple in New Mexican cuisine, chile verde is probably going to be the best marriage of rich Mexican sauces and a more traditional southwestern US "chili" where chunks of tough meat are stewed or braised in the sauce until tender. I've tested and approve of this recipe as a basic starting point. However, in The Food Lab, Kenji goes into detail about why it's better to let this dish braise in the oven. Here is his final recipe, which is amazing and pretty simple once you get through it a couple times (and usually provides leftovers for days). I do believe he is a bit misinformed (in the book, in particular) about how unique Hatch chilies are; the exact same chilies are widely available as "Anaheim peppers" in addition to other sub-cultivars of the classic "No.9 chile". But I digress.

More about chile verde and SW food
I collected about a dozen cookbooks when living in NM trying to find more chile verde recipes to try. Two more recent ones I highly recommend are New Mexico Cuisine: Recipes from the Land of Enchantment and Red or Green: New Mexico Cuisine. For authentic Oaxaqueño recipes, I have only read Oaxaca al Gusto: An Infinite Gastronomy but it's very good and sub-divides the region to give you a sampling of coastal seafood, cheese from the mountains, and about a thousand mole recipes!

Finally, I want to say I agree with your friend: Tex-Mex is a mistake and traditional Mexican food is where the good eats are at!

u/stevenkmason · 11 pointsr/goodyearwelt

My Santa was /u/havingaraveup and he absolutely knocked it out of the park.

I received The Food Lab cookbook that I've been wanting for some time (how did he know?!?!). It's already on display in my home and I used it for dinner last night (slow cooker bbq steak tips)!

He also included some shoe care products and this homemade Aaron Rodgers candle that I shall sacrificially burn next year when the Lions defeat the Packers on their way to the Super Bowl.

Thank you so much for your generosity!

Also, shoutout to /u/aype for putting this on.

u/TrueDiligence · 11 pointsr/buildapcsales

I will leave a note here for those wondering what a DAC/Amp is and when they are needed.

-----------------

DAC


A DAC is simply a digital to analog converter. A good DAC will minimize the amount of noise that is introduced into the system, noise being hissing, buzzing, ringing, etc. In more technical terms this would be errors made by the DAC when converting a stream of bits coming from your computer to an analog signal.

It doesn't cost much to produce an accurate DAC. Most on-board DACs are good enough that you won't notice any noise. If you do notice noise it's likely because of interference from other components on the motherboard. In that case a cheap external DAC, such as the Fiio D03k, should clean up the signal.

TL;DR: Don't notice any noise, don't buy an external DAC

------------------

AMP


An amplifier does what the name implies, it amplifies the analog signal going to the headphones. Some headphones are easier to power than others. The SHP9500s are just fine running off your motherboard, which probably has a relatively weak amp, but something like the HifiMan HE-6 requires a lot of power. My recommendation would be to try out the headphones without an amplifier first, then purchase an amp if you aren't reaching the listening volume you would like.

Let's say you need an amplifier, which one do you get? First you should know that there are two major types of amps: solid state and tube. Solid state amplifiers aim to provide clean power to the headphones. Tube amplifiers intentionally introduce distortion to the sound to make it sound more natural. This tends to cut down on harsh treble.
You want to make sure the amp you purchase has enough power for your headphones and will provide clean sound. A great entry level amplifier would be the FX Audio DAC X6 which also happens to have a built in DAC. If you require more power than that the Schiit Magni 3 is exceptional. Anything beyond that, I would recommend heading over to /r/headphones.

TL;DR: Happy with your listening volume? Don't buy a separate amplifier.

u/Flannel_Condom · 11 pointsr/Metal

I'm sporting the Audio-Technica ATH-M50x and a FiiO E10K. I also use the Fidelia music player on a mac. It's definitely an upgrade from standard audio equipment but still under $250. You can easily go nuts and drop $1,000+.

FLACCs are still difficult to find from digital sources for lesser known bands. Not everyone's on bandcamp. I buy the physical CD then rip it to FLACC. 320kb/s MP3s are ok but if you opt for a higher fidelity setup I'd stick to FLACC, ALAC, WAV, or AIFF.

u/MilkyReddit · 11 pointsr/xboxone
u/Bananagans · 10 pointsr/pcmasterrace

DO NOT buy this rig....

...unless you make sure you have the right HDMI cables to prevent digital signal degradation for your video output!!!!

u/jaymz168 · 10 pointsr/audioengineering

Over under is all I know, every company I've ever worked with, as well myself personally, use over under exclusively. Skip the "garden ties" and get these or opera knot some tie line on the cables so you can keep them tidy.

u/rolltododge · 10 pointsr/battlestations

Alright I'll be the first to say it... You're going to hate that you used zip ties. Any time you need to change anything, you have to cut and refasten new ones. They also can damage wiring.


You should have used velcro ties: https://smile.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Reusable-Fastening-Organizing/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=velcro+ties&qid=1564609258&s=electronics&sr=1-3

u/kfm946 · 10 pointsr/buildapcsales

I own a pair of these, they're phenomenal for the price, especially this sale price. Extremely comfortable, great mic and great drivers. I recommend ditching the USB dongle it comes with and using the 3.5mm jack (you may or may not need a splitter).

u/picmandan · 10 pointsr/diyaudio

If you want to use the center channel you’ll need more than a basic 2-channel amp - you’ll need a home theater receiver. Any old 5.1 system will do. You should be able to get them used for well under $100. Their main downside is their size.

You’ll also need speaker cables - 16 gauge is fine unless you want to run them over 15-20 feet or so, then 14 ga may be an improvement.

Then run an aux cord from the PC sound out to auxiliary input on the receiver. You may need an adapter like this to go from 3.5mm to RCA inputs (or something that does a similar job).

No special audio interface needed if you’re not doing surround sound. Stereo input for the left/right/center channel is fine.

u/Fantasysage · 10 pointsr/PS4
u/dvd_sandwich · 10 pointsr/PS4

The PS4 still has optical audio output, so if your headset supports that, you can connect it with that.

I recommend getting something like this, which will convert optical to red/white RCA cables.
A clumsier option would be to plug this cable into your controller.

u/throwswithfats · 10 pointsr/Cooking

I think Serious Eats would be a great starting point for you. It's got the recipes, but it's also got the why. Learning why the food does what it does, and learning why recipes work or don't, is very important.

u/kmojeda · 10 pointsr/cookbooks

As an avid cook and collector of cookbooks, I have three recommendations -

  1. Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat by Samin Nosrat
  2. The Food Lab by J. Kenji Lopez Alt
  3. The Flavor Bible

    The first two will teach you the essentials of cooking. How salt, fat, acid, and heat work together to make delicious food. J Kenji Lopez Alt has a popular serious eats blog and his book will teach you everything you need to know about cooking perfect meat, eggs, burgers, etc.

    Once you learn all of the basics from those books, use the Flavor Bible to be creative.
u/Benze2294 · 10 pointsr/lifehacks

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1Y5O6

Or spend $5 and get 100 velcro ones that will hold up better...

u/lono10c · 9 pointsr/VIDEOENGINEERING

These are cheap and cheesy, but they strip HDCP.

https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Powered-Splitter-1080P-Model/dp/B004F9LVXC/

u/Sybertron · 9 pointsr/gaming

100 Pack (enough to do your home, office, and your friend's cubicle) is $6.99.

Seriously, skip lunch one day, buy this, and finally get organized.

u/thingsyoucouldthink · 9 pointsr/PS4

In my opinion, the best option is to buy a regular pair of great headphones, then buy a mic to go with them. No gaming headset will sound as good as a pair of headphones for the same price. Get a pair of headphones in your price range, then a mic and the audio splitter will be an extra $18.
I currently use a pair of Audio Technica M50x's, which I bought to listen to music with and wound up using them for gaming. They are very comfortable and sound fantastic, although I personally wish they had a bit more bass, for gaming. For a microphone, I prefer the Pyle-Pro PMEM1 Headworn Mic, because it sounds far better than any other microphone I’ve used. Some people like the Zalman Clip mic, but in my experience it didn’t capture my voice clearly and picked up a ton of ambient noise. I just wear the mic underneath the headphones, which is perfectly comfortable. MAKE SURE YOU BUY A SPLITTER! The mic won’t work on the PS4 without one. I use this one. Overall, it’s ~$180 for a great gaming setup, and you get an amazing pair of headphones that you can listen to music with and wear out of the house.
If you want to look into a different pair of headphones, The Wirecutter has some phenomenal advice on headphones. They also have a list for gaming headsets, and I would take their advice on those if you have your heart set on a headset.

Consider getting a cheaper pair of headphones The Wirecutter recommends if you won’t use the M50x’s for anything else other than gaming, but they are among the best headphones for listening to music, and work great for gaming.

Headphones:
https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Pro-PMEM1-Headworn-Omni-Directional-Microphone/dp/B003D2S7HA/ref=pd_ybh_a_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8HYQKPP2BHCSX3M8WW8N

Mic:
https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Pro-PMEM1-Headworn-Omni-Directional-Microphone/dp/B003D2S7HA/ref=pd_ybh_a_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8HYQKPP2BHCSX3M8WW8N

Splitter:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=pd_ybh_a_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=05264WVDYHC2FG0SSX1W

Other Headphones:
http://thewirecutter.com/leaderboard/headphones/

u/HULKx · 9 pointsr/xboxone
u/NoradIV · 9 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You mean 13449.75?

u/impingu1984 · 9 pointsr/pcmasterrace

£90 is nothing

What about $13,500

u/vsTerminus · 9 pointsr/headphones

FiiO E10K Olympus DAC / Amp on Amazon

I am using it to drive a pair of Sennheiser HD 598 SE headphones at work.

Before you chastise me for open back in an office space, I listen at a relatively low volume, the ambient noise here is pretty loud, and I've okayed it with my cube neighbor who is rarely even at his desk.

Some initial thoughts:

  • The Bass switch is subtle enough (depending on the music) that I actually find it pleasant. Edit: Probably won't use it much long term, but it's nice for some kinds of music.
  • Size is smaller than I expected. Pencil for scale. (Sorry, no banana available)
  • Sound quality is quite nice for this purpose. You'll hear from others that this is basically an entry level DAC and they're not wrong. It works for me because I'm just using it to listen to lossy music (320mp3) at work and wanted something a little nicer than this old laptop's onboard DAC.
  • I have Gain on Low and wouldn't dream of raising it. OS volume sits around 70-80% and the physical knob on the amp doesn't rise above 3 most of the time.
  • Installation was dead simple, but I'm running Arch Linux (ALSA + Pulseaudio) so there is no driver installation. I just plug it in and tell the media player which device to use.

    The biggest issue I've been having so far is not the DAC's fault, but the fact that my laptop is quite old and has a weak CPU. This led to some crackling when the CPU was under heavy load, so I've had to tweak a number of things (process priorities, disable "smooth scrolling" in my browser, etc) to eliminate it.

    Otherwise it seems like a solid purchase.
u/hunterisagrump · 9 pointsr/audioengineering

-label maker

-headphone hangers

-another vote for the Fethead!

-velcro cable ties

u/PrimeCaliber · 9 pointsr/battlestations

Not sure why my links came out all fucked up? Too lazy to try and fix it.

His.

Monitors: [Dell S2716DGR] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0149QBOF0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Triple Monitor Mount: [EZM Deluxe Triple Monitor Mount] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006JG7G2E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s06?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Keyboard: [Corsair K70 Cherry MX Reds] (https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-K70-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B01ER4B8C8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1526665446&sr=8-2&keywords=corsair%2Bk70%2Bcherry%2Bred&th=1)

Mouse: [Corsair Scimitar Pro RGB] (https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Gaming-SCIMITAR-Mechanical-Buttons/dp/B013KK9JOO/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526665487&sr=1-2&keywords=corsair+scimitar+pro+rgb)

Mouse Pad: [Razer Goliathus Overwatch Mouse Mat] (https://www.amazon.com/Razer-Goliathus-Overwatch-Mouse-Professional-Grade/dp/B01DXVKEJY)

Wireless Headset: [Steel Series 800 Wireless] (https://www.amazon.com/SteelSeries-Lag-Free-Wireless-Transmitter-Surround/dp/B016YGMH9U/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526665568&sr=1-3&keywords=steelseries+h800)

Speakers: [Audioengine A5+] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005OSR1C8/ref=twister_B00L3KRZS6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1)

Speaker Mounts: [Audioengine DS2 Desktop speaker stands] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005STCILC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Desk Surface: [Ikea EKBACKEN countertop 98in] (https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/80274864/)

Desk Drawers: Haha who am I kidding everyone knows that those are!

Lamp: [IKEA Hektar lamp] (https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/40349376/)

Cable Management

[Raceways] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015EDVVU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s06?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

[Velcro zip ties] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1Y5O6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

[Desk Grommet ](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MX5TH4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

[Cable clips] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075WWCN1K/ref=detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Pc build specs

Case: NZXT H440

Motherboard: ASUS ROG Maximus IX Hero Z270 LGA1151

CPU: i7 6700k

RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB Series 32GB

Power supply: Corsair RM series modular 1000W 80plus Gold

Power cables: Corsair custom sleeved in blue

CPU cooler: NZXT Kraken X52

Boot Drive: SAMSUNG 750 EVO 2.5" 500GB

HDD: 2TB Western Digital

GPU: EVGA 12GB Titan black

Hers.

Monitor: [Asus ROG Switft 34in ultra wide] (https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-ROG-SWIFT-PG348Q-3440x1440/dp/B01C83BE6U/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526666082&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=Asus+-+ROG+Swift+34%22+IPS+LED+Curved+QHD+GSync+Monitor+-+Armor+titanium+Plasma+copper)

Monitor Mount: [VIV duial mount] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CUW5HDU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Mouse: [Razer Naga Chroma] (https://www.amazon.com/Razer-Naga-Chroma-Programmable-Adjustible/dp/B01798WKTY/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526666200&sr=1-4&keywords=razer+mmo+mouse)

Keyboard: [Corsair K70 Cherry MX Reds] (https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-K70-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B01ER4B8C8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1526665446&sr=8-2&keywords=corsair%2Bk70%2Bcherry%2Bred&th=1)

Mouse pad: [Razer Goliathus Overwatch Mouse Mat] (https://www.amazon.com/Razer-Goliathus-Overwatch-Mouse-Professional-Grade/dp/B01DXVKEJY)

Wireless Headset: [Steel Series 800 Wireless] (https://www.amazon.com/SteelSeries-Lag-Free-Wireless-Transmitter-Surround/dp/B016YGMH9U/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526665568&sr=1-3&keywords=steelseries+h800)

Speakers: [KRK Rokit 5 ](https://www.amazon.com/KRK-RP5G3-NA-Generation-Powered-Monitor/dp/B00FX7MMRO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526666262&sr=8-1&keywords=krk+rokit+5)

Desk Surface x2 : [IKEA Linnmon] (https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/S39932699/)

Cable Management

Cable Rack: [IKEA Signum rack] (https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/30200253/)

PC Build specs

Case: Corsair crystal series 460X

Motherboard: ASUS ROG Maximus IX Hero Z270 LGA1151

CPU: i7 7700k

RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB Series 32GB

Power supply: Corsair RM series modular 1000W 80plus Gold

CPU cooler: NZXT Kraken X52

HDD: WD 1TB

GPU: GTX 1080 ti SC

u/Ben1842 · 9 pointsr/PS4

Get the ties that velcro, they work just as well and if you need to move something around its easier. Example:
https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-2-Inch-Count-Black/dp/B001E1Y5O6

u/NauticalBustard · 9 pointsr/Hue

Get some velcro cable ties; tie everything headed to a common component together. ie. all the power cords conecting to a certain power bar, tie them together. All the HDMI cables connecting to the TV, etc.

All the cords going to the right-hand side of the entertainment unit, bundle them together and tie them to the unit's centre-right vertical support column/leg (preferably the one in the back). White velcro cables ties might blend in better here. Do the same for the centre-left column/leg and components on that side.

For the big rat's nest in the back, bundle the surplus power brick cord lengths together with cable ties and either hide the tied bundles behind the component it powers, or tuck it under the entertainment unit out of sight.

Snip the surplus ends of the wrapped cable ties so they are neat and not rolled up into little cinnamon rolls.

Because the entertainment unit is so open, you're not going to be able to completely hide everything. It doesn't all have to be hidden, it just has to look organised.

u/aljobar · 9 pointsr/Cooking

You seriously cannot go past Kenji Lopez-Alt’s book: The Food Lab. It’s several hundred pages of how to cook basic things properly, then apply those techniques to more complex dishes. It even covers things like equipment, knife skills, etc. I understand that he’s launching a second copy soon, too.

https://www.amazon.com/Food-Lab-Cooking-Through-Science/dp/0393081087

u/julieannie · 9 pointsr/blogsnark

Some ideas that have worked well for me/others:

Aging Parents - Kind of expensive (fluctuates a ton) but if you have a parent with a ton of photos who talks about scanning them all in someday, this scanner is fantastic. I have the older version and it's literally so easy to use that even my mom and dad could figure it out when I let them borrow it. Not a great bulk doc scanner but exactly what you need for photos. Pair with a case like this to store the originals in and you've done a great deed.

Newlyweds- If they don't have specific interests, a picnic blanket goes over well. I have the one linked and it's nice for the cheap price. Pair with some wine, maybe some other picnic accessories. I'm also giving a minted gift for a custom designed print for wedding photos to my brother/new sister-in-law.

Teens- Move beyond the selfie stick - some phone lenses go a long way, get a self timer for the phone, or a PowerCore. The powercore isn't sexy but super loved by all. I usually hit up BaubleBar or Sephora for deals too.

Handyman- I shoved this cheap light in my husband's stocking last year and he loves it. It's super handy.

Homebody- This is out of stock in the best size right now but it always comes back in. It is the softest blanket ever, doesn't shed, and we bought them for every room of the house.

Dog- What dog doesn't love bully sticks? A good deal, really good quality and my dogs have loved them.

On my wishlist- A milk frother, The Food Lab cookbook, a magnetic pincushion, maybe some Ugg slippers, a bunch of Etsy art and Essie gel couture nail polish. Debating a special purchase for myself with a bonus I received, I'm thinking a camera for a big trip coming up if I can find the right holiday deal.

u/HyperCubed4 · 9 pointsr/seriouseats

I worked briefly as a butcher and, as a rule, I thought all minced beef was the same, aside from the fat content (I didn't say I was a good butcher). Eye of Round vs. Brisket? They're both extra lean, right?

Nope. After reading an article Kenji had wrote about the different kinds of beef cuts, I learned that I could make my burgers exponentially more flavourful by mixing and matching cuts.

Kenji knows what's up, and I'm heavily considering buying his book on Amazon.

No, this isn't a paid/undisclosed promotion... but if Kenji wants to throw a couple bucks my way, I won't say no.

u/8f27 · 9 pointsr/Kochen

Ganz klar: The Food Lab!
https://www.amazon.com/Food-Lab-Cooking-Through-Science/dp/0393081087
Ist zwar Englisch aber trotzdem ganz klare Empfehlung! Einerseits sind die Rezepte gut, wenn auch klar amerikanisch andererseits habe ich noch aus keinem Kochbuch so viel mitgenommen und gelernt!

u/TMobotron · 9 pointsr/synthesizers

Volca beats uses a dual unbalanced mono signal. When you use headphones, the same mono signal is going to the left speaker and the right speaker using the left and right connections of the cable, which causes no problems. When you use an audio interface, you're plugging a cable carrying two identical signals into a jack that's expecting two identical signals but with one of them phase inverted. Your audio interface is probably expecting a mono balanced input, which is not what it's getting. Normally with a balanced input, the signals are sent phase inverted. The receiving hardware then flips the inverted signal and the signals are combined.

With the dual unbalanced signal, since neither signal is being sent phase inverted, when the receiving hardware inverts the signal it becomes phase inverted. When the signals are combined, you're left with just the noise/distortion that a balanced cable is normally trying to eliminate.

Korg really should've made this more clear with the Volca series. FYI - here is the cable I'm using, which works fine (I only use one of the 1/4" plugs).

u/Du6e · 9 pointsr/buildapcforme

Based on all the research you put in, i don't think that you really need our help :p

But just in case you just need some re-assurance, the R7 series is definitely going to get you the best bang / buck, although it'll be interesting to see how Intel prices SkyLake X / KabyLake X.

You'll also have to look into if their block supports AM4 since they only say that they support AMD.

Why even bother with your SoundBlaster if it's going to complicate the build. I'd just sell it an get an external solution like a FiiO E10K or a Scarlet Solo (Although i guess that depends on what headphone you have).


Even with something like this, you still have quiet a bit leftover for some sleeved cables and a keyboard / headphone upgrade.


PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD RYZEN 7 1700 3.0GHz 8-Core Processor | $319.75 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | MSI X370 GAMING PRO CARBON ATX AM4 Motherboard | $178.98 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $119.88 @ OutletPC
Storage | Samsung 960 Evo 250GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $129.99 @ B&H
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | Purchased For $0.00
Storage | Crucial MX300 750GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | Purchased For $0.00
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Superclocked Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card | Purchased For $0.00
Power Supply | SeaSonic 520W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular Fanless ATX Power Supply | $126.50 @ Jet
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $875.10
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-04-10 14:41 EDT-0400 |

u/Banzai51 · 9 pointsr/PleX

Harmony Hub is currently on sale at Amazon too. Hub plus the basic remote for $80

u/justathoughtfromme · 9 pointsr/hometheater

Harmony Hub. Get the package that included the physical remote also. It's currently available for $60 right now on Amazon.

u/AFTVnews · 9 pointsr/fireTV

This Harmony remote and Hub is my go-to recommendation. It just went on sale for $69.99, which is the lowest I've ever seen it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQ5RYI4/

u/Shirokumoh · 8 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

28g Kanthal Wire - Standard Starter Stuff. My favorite.

Sterile Cotton Balls - You can also go the cheap route and buy a bag of cotton balls from CVS and boil them before using them.

Intellicharge Charger - Efest also makes one with an LED screen that is my personal favorite, but it's like $30. This one is the most often recommended charger in this sub.

BOOM, give that bitch some juice (Sony VTC5) - Again, most commonly recommended battery in this sub. The purple Efests aren't bad either, but this is the standard.

Safety first, MOTHER FUCKER! - Seriously, you need one of these. Can't be vapin' on that crazy wacky coil you made up if it might blow your face off. I figured I'd include an Amazon link, but chances are you can get one of these much cheaper at your local Vape Shop or on ebay.

Alright, you've loaded up your cart, you whipped out that credit card, now you wait. How should you pass the time?

OH SHIT! Lets watch a chubby guy build your dripper! - This crazy mofo is using silica wick, but you can use your cotton the same way. Once you're familiar with how the Helios is set up, any rebuilding video will be applicable. Check out a few once you're familiar with the parts.

Finally, get some JUICE, BITCH! You mentioned you have some puny little e-go thing, so I'm sure you're familiar with juice. But you need to understand something, son... You're about to take the step from puffin' on a thing shaped like an e-cig to "CHUCKIN' THE VAPE!" Flavors you liked before will probably taste like ass on a dripper, and flavors you could never appreciate before are going to taste fuckin' amazeballs.

Start with the old Reddit standards, Bombies' - 'nana Cream and Suicide Bunny - Mother's Milk. Then explore from there.

That's it. 'bout $40 of new hardware and an hour on youtube and you've got yourself a new hobby.

For the record, that's a sick little setup you got there too. Jelly, bro.

Happy vaping!

u/LegendaryRav · 8 pointsr/buildapc

I bought a bag of these Velcro Straps and it was easily one of the best things I bought for cable managing.

u/RouletteZoku · 8 pointsr/buildapcsales

Obligatory have these headphones, AMA.

I replaced the ear pads with hm5 velour pads, (got them when they were like half off) no modifications required (once the stock earpads are removed, they can’t be reused, just a warning)

u/UrbanToiletShrimp · 8 pointsr/techsupportmacgyver

I had this problem a while ago when I bought new speakers, the solution for me was to buy a cheap external DAC and plug that into the optical port on my motherboard, since it's just light there is no electrical interference.

u/WhatisH2O4 · 8 pointsr/UnethicalLifeProTips

I have the m50, so no detachable cord, and they are still treating me well to this day. I eventually upgraded and my new set has velour ear pads, which are awesome. Even though my m50s don't get as much use anymore, I got some replacement pads for them and it was like getting a whole new set of headphones. So much comfier, no more getting sweaty by wearing them too long, and they have a slightly improved soundstage imo by adding these new pads. Might be worth checking out, they're only $20 right now.

velour ear pads for ATH-M50X

u/Clobbersaurus7 · 8 pointsr/seriouseats

Oops I did it again. Posted a recipe from The Food Lab that I can't find published online. So i guess instead of a recipe I'll implore you to buy the book because it's awesome https://www.amazon.com/Food-Lab-Cooking-Through-Science/dp/0393081087

Kenji did not pay or bribe me for this plug btw..

u/seainhd · 8 pointsr/AskCulinary

The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science https://www.amazon.com/dp/0393081087/

u/jcoopr86 · 8 pointsr/cableporn

That's the thing though... Velcro is hardly more expensive... Especially considering the advantages it offers.

u/FatFingerHelperBot · 8 pointsr/pcmasterrace

It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users.
I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!


Here is link number 1 - Previous text "1"

Here is link number 2 - Previous text "2"



----
^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete

u/ZeosPantera · 8 pointsr/dreamcast

Mother of god....

If I ever came over I would lock you out of the house and have my way with your wires and a 100 pack of Velcro Ties

u/KenGoesBRAP · 8 pointsr/synthesizers

LOL! The dirty secret?

I have two cats, brothers, Mario and Luigi. Luigi's mellow, never a problem. Mario likes to chew on things, the more expensive and less replaceable, the better. After the second mouse and a set of reference headphones lost, I'm now religious about neatly cabling everything lest he get the idea that my patch cables (or the USB ones for that matter) are there for his amusement.


Velcro ties are your friends, best thing ever. I learned to like them about 20 years ago on my first civilian job post military, wiring up computer labs in schools - they're absolutely fantastic and so cheap you'll be embarrassed you don't already have some. I get mine from Amazon 100 at a time for about $10.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1Y5O6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Arve · 8 pointsr/audiophile

They're powered speakers, meaning you don't need an amplifier or receiver.

You can plug them straight into a computer using this cable.

u/lirakis · 7 pointsr/amateurradio

hey friend, i recently wrote a "how to" setup APRS with a HT, Direwolf, and YAAC on linux. copy paste is below ...

edit:

If audio is getting from the radio to direwolf, check the volume levels on the radio output, and check the mic gain on your computer. These are really the only two settings that will affect how direwolf can rx and decode. Direwolf logs out when it receives something, and it tells you on a scale of 0-100 the volume level. I try to shoot for 50-60 and I get very consistent decode.


Tutorial: APRS software user interface, with software based audio TNC, and RF gateway

Overview:

APRS is a tool that was designed to convey information about objects, telemetry, and reporting, as well as communicate between individuals and groups with direct, and group messaging. Many people have the experience, or mindset, that APRS is used primarily for location tracking. This is partially due to the limitations on many hardware implementations of APRS that vendors have provided. One way to learn more about APRS as a broader, and more powerful system is to utilize software to visualize, and interact with other stations, and objects. This short tutorial will discuss how to setup a software based user interface (UI) for APRS that will provide you with mapping, messaging, and object manipulation abilities, as well as how to connect that UI through a software based audio modem, or TNC, directly to a radio, so that other users within your immediate range, as well as the range of any digipeaters will be able to interact with the same local APRS data without any reliance on the internet, or internet gateways.

User interface:

There are several different user interfaces available that have been designed for APRS.

UI-View is a popular piece of software which is no longer being maintained as the original author has passed away.

YAAC is a successor/replacement to UI-View which is cross platform (Java) with a intuitive interface, and many capabilites. We will be using YAAC for this tutorial.

Xastir is primarily a Linux application built on the X windows library system. It is quite functional, but is less intuitive and is currently less activly developed than YAAC.


Audio Modem (TNC):

TNC's originally were AX.25 packet assembler/dissasemblers with the addition of a modem to convert baseband digital signals into audio tones. In the case of a software TNC, it has the same capabilites, encoding and decoding both the AX.25 layer, and data layer to and from audio so it can be transmitted or received from a radio.

Direwolf is the premier audio tnc, which is documented to run on Windows, OSX, Linux, and single board computer Linux environments such as Raspberry Pi BeagleBone Black etc.

RF Gateway:

The RF gateway is probably the simplest piece in the equation. You need only a radio that supports audio in, audio out, and VOX. There may be some complexity if you choose to make your own cables, however there are ready made cables for popular and inexpensive radios (Baofeng) which are available for under $20 from amazon, which feature isolation to protect both your computer, and your radio.

Here is a link to a high quality cable available on Amazon, which works for Boafeng radios: https://www.amazon.com/APRS-K2-Connector-BaoFeng-APRSDroid-Compatible/dp/B01LMIBAZW


Supplementary:

It can be very helpful to have a radio that is capable of broadcasting an APRS beacon to test your setup as you go.

Your laptop may have a single plug for both headphone and microphone (TRRS) or it may have two seperate plugs. If you have two seperate plugs, you will need a splitter to seperate the microphone, and headphone connections from the cable linked to in the above RF gateway section. The cable linked below will split the two should you need it.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-MUYHSFMM-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B0058DOWH6/


System setup:

We are going to build the APRS system from the ground up, starting with Direwolf, the audio modem/tnc and the RF gateway. If you are a Linux user, there are packages for direwolf in ubuntu/debian as well as yum based systems:

sudo apt-get install direwolf or sudo yum install direwolf

For Windows and OSX go to https://github.com/wb2osz/direwolf and follow the instructions to download the latest release and run direwolf from a command window.

direwolf does not need any configuration for our initial setup, simply run direwolf, connect the audio and microphone jacks between the computer and your radio, and tune your radio to 144.390.

Be certain that you do not have any rx-CTCSS or DCS tones setup. Set your squelch as low as it will go, and enable vox with the lowest setting possible on your radio. Now is the time when it is handy to have a HT that is capable of beaconing APRS data. If you have one, set it to beacon and you should start see data coming in on the terminal where direwolf is running. You may need to adjust the volume on the output of your radio, the output of your computer, as well as the microphone gain on your computer to get everything decoding properly.

Once you can reliably decode becons from a local HT, or from a digipeater within range, you can move on to setting up the YAAC user interface, and connecting it to direwolf.


YAAC, the APRS user interface software we are using, is a Java program and requires that your system has the Java runtime environment installed. For Linux users, be certain that you install the full JRE, and not a "headless" JRE, as the headless versions do not come with the graphical libraries that YAAC requires to run. Also as of this writing YAAC did not work with Java 9, however I experienced no problems using the OpenJDK Java 8 JRE so be sure to check the version you are installing.

After you have the Java Runtime Environment installed, download the self upacking binary for your operating system from the YAAC website at http://www.ka2ddo.org/ka2ddo/YAAC.html#install

For linux users, the file was not set as an executable, so I had to chmod +x YAAC_linux_x86.bin before running ./YAAC_linux_x86.bin

NOTE: YAAC does not extract itself into a directory - so you likely want to create a directory first, then move the self extracting file into that directory so that you dont end up with a bunch of files all over.

After the package has extracted, simply run the YACC.jar program. You can do this from the command line with: java -jar YACC.jar

YACC will ask you if you want help configuring it, select yes and walk through the steps configuring your call sign, latitude/longitude etc. When you get to the part about adding and configuring interfaces, select the option to "Add AGWPE Port". YACC will create a new window with default information populated - you MUST add your callsign, and change the transmit dropdown from "disabled" to "enabled". Click finish, and on the next screen you can decide whether you want to beacon or not (I chose yes) along with any free form comment you want, then click finish.

That is it - you have a basic APRS software station set up that can transmit, and recieve via RF link. You should see objects start to appear on the YAAC map view, and the direwolf command line output should match up with data YAAC is displaying.

Homework:

From here you can learn how to create message groups, chat directly with stations, place objects on the map so that they are only visible to other local RF stations, or so that they propegate out through the internet via a digipeater I-Gate (if one is in range) so that they show up on the APRS-IS backbone (e.g. aprs.fi).

u/astallasalion · 7 pointsr/buildapcsales

You'll want a DAC or audio interface to get the most value out of these.

You can run these with a 3.5mm to 2xTS adapter but you'll be much more susceptible to grounding issues/noise.

The best solution would be to get a device that has balanced TRS/XLR output (both are electrically equivalent, pin-for-pin).

u/theblakjak · 7 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

This massdrop isn't really a big savings. Especially adding the shipping cost. At least if you already have amazon prime. Total at mass would be $13 ish @ i2, and $18.49 @ i4, while amazon the i2 is higher priced, being the only deal by way of $2 at massdrop, and the i4 is cheaper by .05 on amazon.

(Amazon prime is a worthwhile awesome service and at such a low cost, i recommend it highly, plus there is a free trial to check it out in case you don't have it.)

u/mollymoo · 7 pointsr/PS3

That's really not a good way to do it. Line level audio is intended to transfer an audio signal between devices, not to drive headphones. You would be overloading the PS3's audio output, which is designed for loads of around 10k ohm, if you connected some headphones which might have an impedance 100 times lower. It would be quiet, you'd have no volume control and you'd likely get some distortion.

The right way to do it - the way which wouldn't overload the PS3's audio output and would give you adequate volume which you could control - is to use an amplifier. Practically any stereo will have the required line-in and headphone out, or you can buy a dedicated headphone amp. You'd need, say, an amp like this and a cable like this(if you wanted to connect it directly to the PS3).

u/Subbota · 7 pointsr/rocksmith

I use this headphone amp to split my signal to RS, an amp, and a third line for recording raw guitar output.

With individual amps I can set levels for each output.

u/[deleted] · 7 pointsr/battlestations

They are velcro cable ties I got here. I love them. I simply used a staple gun to attach them to the back frame of the desk, and then routed all the cables along the edge in one bundle.

u/Stovinator · 7 pointsr/synthesizers

These...

u/iAmMitten1 · 7 pointsr/letsplay

Years ago, someone recommended that I buy this HDMI splitter to get around the PS3's (or any system's) HDCP protection. I've used it many times and have never had any issues recording PS3 gameplay through it. It's been mentioned quite a few times in this subreddit by various people, all of whom say it's worked well for them.

u/honer123 · 7 pointsr/xboxone

Actually connect this
StarTech.com Headset adapter for headsets with separate headphone / microphone plugs - 3.5mm 4 position to 2x 3 position 3.5mm M/F https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RtNiybQBKJPYG

Then the mono adapter to the headphone side

Then this,
Maeline 3.5mm Female to 2 Male Gold Plated Headphone Mic Audio Y Splitter Flat Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ewNiybTP946EB

u/americanairman469 · 7 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT order batteries from Fasttech. They are having huge issues with international shipping of Li-ion batteries and what typically happens is it will sit at the Hong Kong post for a month, only to be returned and you to get a refund. If you can't afford to spend a little extra on a stateside vendor, at the very least, just order the Mod and charger. Order the batteries from a stateside vendor. Here's what I would do if I were you.

Vamo v5
Couple of these
This

Then whatever tank setup you want. I prefer a cartomizer tank. You're going to spend a touch more, but you're going to get all of that within a week, and know that it's actually going to get to you. My two cents.

u/canesfan2001 · 7 pointsr/cordcutters

Get this bad boy:

http://www.amazon.com/RCA-ANT751-Quality-Durable-Compact/dp/B0024R4B5C/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1382280571&sr=8-4&keywords=antenna

My only problem was it was TOO good for my area (I have some green channels). It would catch the signal AND the little bit of signal bouncing off the buildings near me would cancel it out and cause interference.

I fixed it by pointing it in the wrong direction at a weird angle, which meant it now only picks up the small reflected signal on those good channels. My picture has been crystal clear since that day on every channel, rain or shine.

Not to say you will have that experience exactly, but it's a good antenna.

u/Xb3am · 7 pointsr/cordcutters

I got this antenna. I average about 30 miles to all the major stations in my area and I mounted the antenna inside my attic with a low noise amp. Looking at the signal map you provided I think a similar setup should work for you. Good luck!

u/Newwackydeli · 7 pointsr/PS3

You're gonna want a powered splitter, I have this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And it works fine. I use it on a monitor, and a television with noticeable extra lag.

u/xchaos · 7 pointsr/playstation

If you're using a 1080p or a 1440p monitor, you can use a HDMI splitter to bypass HDCP. Been getting a lot of audio issues with my capture card because of HDCP so I bought this and it seems to fix it. A lot of streamers use the same splitter to stream PS3 games since you can't turned off HDCP.

u/Helmerdrake · 7 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/rabidfurby · 7 pointsr/audio

According to this your TV has an optical audio output (SPDIF). You'll get much better sound quality if you use that instead of the headphone output.

Use this to convert that digital into analog (output over RCA cables): http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F4ORTZ6/

Then an amplifier to output to speaker wires: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049P6OTI/ (or, slightly cheaper in black: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C2P61FO/)

Cables you'll need, if you don't have them already, are a Toslink/SPDIF cable, a stereo RCA cable, and speaker wires. Buy them from Monoprice, or get ripped off buying them from somewhere else.

If you want even cheaper, you can forego the digital-to-analog converter and connect the headphone output straight to the amp, but if it were me I'd spend the extra $20 on the DAC.

Edit: after some more Amazon searching, I'd go with this DAC instead. A few bucks more, but much better reviews, includes a Toslink cable, and is powered by a standard micro-USB (cell phone charger) plug.

u/wobwobwob42 · 7 pointsr/hometheater

Velcro straps - All Day Every Day

Here is a pack of 100 for $5 http://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-ONE-WRAP-Self-Gripping-Cable-Reusable/dp/B001E1Y5O6

u/Emerald_Flame · 7 pointsr/buildapc

I'd probably by some zip tie anchors (should be available at your local hardware store in various sizes) and put those on the back side of the desk frame and use velcro straps to attach wires to those anchors. As long as you keep everything along the backside of that black frame, you won't really be able to see the wires as much.

For the speakers on the shelf. Personally, I'd move them down to the desk, you'll get a better listening experience that way because right now, they aren't only above your head, but they are angled up, so most of the sound is just going into the ceiling. Putting them on the desk would be a more optimal height, and allow you to hide the chords better. If that isn't an option, I'd get slightly longer speaker wire and run both wires straight up the center so you only have 1 line, then once they get behind the shelf, split them off there and run it behind the back edge of the shelf.

u/SuspiciousRhubarb4 · 7 pointsr/Cooking

Take a look at The Food Lab by /u/J_Kenji_Lopez-Alt . He covers a lot of the science without relying on so much of the BS conventional wisdom.

u/Darklyte · 7 pointsr/GifRecipes

I didn't know she had a cookbook. When I look for recipes, /u/j_kenji_lopez-alt is my first choice (and his book, his serious eats) but he doesn't really do desserts. Bravetart is professionally a pastry nerd and I've been using her primarily for desserts recently. When I found out she had a cookbook I ordered it immediately!

u/fence-sitter · 7 pointsr/macsetups

I don't really have a recommendation, but make sure you decide on how you'll setup your audio connection. Like if you want to use speakers get a monitor with a audio out port, or you could plug them directly into the ps4 controller but I got annoyed being tethered so I ended up buying like three adapters

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink/dp/B001TH7GSW/

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Analog-audio-converter/dp/B004C4WPXA/

https://www.amazon.com/30S1-01260-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B000I23TTE/

u/RetepNamenots · 7 pointsr/fffffffuuuuuuuuuuuu

It may not have a 3.5mm audio out, but does it have a component audio out (red and white plugs)? If so you can get one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Male-3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1332977123&sr=8-7

u/Evexium · 7 pointsr/gaming

Setup Specs:

u/LRed · 7 pointsr/headphones

It has an optical out so if you want a cheap dac/amp combo you could use the SMSL SD 793II and if your PC has an optical out you can use it with that too.

http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-SD793-II-PCM1793-DIR9001-Amplifier/dp/B00A2QLPJM

Also according to this thread on gamefaqs

http://www.gamefaqs.com/boards/691087-playstation-4/69310423

It does support USB dacs but I have no experience with this so you should do more research.

As for the 'flat' sounding of headphones I'm fairly certain the 598's are fairly efficient though I think an amp could possibly help tighten the bass region due to the 300ohm peak at 100hz IIRC.

http://www.innerfidelity.com/images/SennheiserHD598.pdf

Something like E10k also has a bass boost which may be helpful if you find them too bass light. But that's usb so you should do research on that.

http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2

u/koopai · 7 pointsr/buildapcsales

I have 598s and use this. I've never used the Schiit stack but used my FiiO E10k every day for two years and love it.

u/subject217 · 7 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Not to one up you, but there's this.

u/SergeantStuck · 7 pointsr/Tipper

I've been using Beyerdynamics DT 770 Pro 80 ohm paired with a Fiio E10k DAC and the sound quality is incredible. You'd be under budget with this setup too and the E10k also has a bass boost switch if that's your thing ;)

That's more of a desktop setup, though my phone does drive the 770s pretty well. If you're looking for headphones for on the go listening, I'd recommend Sony's WH1000XM3, they're the best noise cancelling headphones I've ever owned.

u/Feelsgood767 · 6 pointsr/shittyaskscience

You will need one of these cables

A little pricey but you will have the best AD4K experience.

u/0110010001100010 · 6 pointsr/networking

What, you don't want to pay $13k for an HDMI cable?!

u/r1zz · 6 pointsr/videos

How about the $14,000 hdmi cord. Don't forget to read the reviews. My favorite: a reviewer gave it 1 star because "it doesn't work with my VCR."

u/Dae314 · 6 pointsr/WorldofTanks

In my opinion, you should only do that if you already have a good set of headphones/speakers that can actually take advantage of the increased sound quality from a card. If you're running WoT with a $20 set of stereo speakers, you'd get more "sound-quality-per-dollar" by getting a better set of headphones than you would with a sound card.

The other reason I came here is to recommend that you get a DAC that's external to the computer. They're undoubtedly more convenient for headphones (who's going to run their headphone cable to the back of the PC?), and arguably you reduce the amount of EM noise by taking the DAC outside of your computer rather than have it sit next to all of the computer's electronics on the PCI-E slot.

The last time I looked, the FiiO E10K was highly recommended for entry level price-to-performance.

u/Wh0_The_Fuck_Cares · 6 pointsr/mechanicalheadpens

You might want to consider changing those pads on the m40x. Went from stock to Brainwavz on my m30x (same pads) and the difference in comfort and sound is substantial.

u/nymets12985 · 6 pointsr/VinylDeals

You could always just get a headphone amp and separate powered speakers. In order to not break the bank but still have quality products, I recommend:

Headphone Amp


Powered speakers

Have owned both and can say you’ll be happy, especially for the price point.

u/AbysmalVixen · 6 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Get VELCRO Brand One Wrap Thin Ties, Black, 8 x 1/2-Inch, 100 Count (91140) instead of zip ties.

You may need more sata cables if you have more drives you’re adding in.

If you’re going for aesthetics, some led strips and cablemods will go a long way with that.

Maybe some different fans than the stock ones if you want lights in them perhaps.

As far as building it goes, the only thing I can think of that you might wanna worry about is to enable a profile to get your ram running at the speed it’s rated for and be sure to plug something into the cpu fan header so you don’t get an error on post

u/amoliski · 6 pointsr/malelivingspace

I recommend something like these velcro wire wraps to bind your TV's cables together to make it look way cleaner. Either that or some cable raceways.

Though I admit I'm a bit crazy when it comes to cable management.

u/malcontent_provider · 6 pointsr/CableManagement

I like these, personally. Lots of stores carry them.

u/synth3tic · 6 pointsr/cableporn

Velcro ties, then organized however you like without worrying about tangles.

http://www.amazon.com/Velcro-Reusable-Self-Gripping-Inches-91140/dp/B001E1Y5O6/

u/reddit_reaper · 6 pointsr/hackintosh

You need to 4 to 3 splitter. Then you can plug in the mic cable into the mic port and the speaker cable into the audio port. Here's a link StarTech MUYHSFMM 3.5mm 4 Pin to 2x3 Pin 3.5mm Headset Splitter Adapter - F/M https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058DOWH6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Y5BRub08HK731

u/Piyh · 6 pointsr/GlobalOffensive

I bought a 4 pole to 3 pole splitter (they can be found on ebay for cheaper) for my earbuds that have a mic on them. My tower only has a dedicated mic and dedicated speaker jack, so this is the low cost solution.

Turns out the splitter flips the audio channels on my earbuds so I have to wear them backwards while gaming. Took me about 3 games to figure out why I was calling out every position wrong.

u/Tudius · 6 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Looks good except for the charger. Trustfire chargers aren't known for there quality. I'd upgrade to something like Nitecore i4 or the Nitecore i2.

u/dougstoner · 6 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

There are quite a few out there, but I have the Nitecore I4. (Can charge 4 batteries at a time)

http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-IntelliCharger-i4-Charger-Generation/dp/B005UAI372

Works great for me, though I have read it does have a slow charge rate. I've never had any issues with mine, and never charges above 4.2 volts.

Here's the I2 (2 battery)

http://www.amazon.com/NiteCore-IntelliCharger-i2-Charger-charging/dp/B009JMDD9U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381866676&sr=8-1&keywords=nitecore+i2+charger

u/MikeFive · 6 pointsr/cordcutters

MLB.tv

NHL Gamecenter

MLS Live

NBA Gamepass

NFL Gamepass

You can also watch NFL games free over the air with a cheap antenna depending on your location / how close to the broadcast towers you are. In my case I had to use this $45 outdoor antenna that I simply mounted in place of the old DirecTV satellite. I'm about 30 miles from towers and I could probably use a slightly larger one because occasionally I get a little bit of static or signal drop.

Even if you paid for every one of those streaming services and bought a $100 antenna you'd be paying less yearly than a cable subscription.

u/brandon7s · 6 pointsr/PS4

I have a couple audiophile quality headphones (newest being my Hifiman HE-400i). I use a cheap lapel clip-on mic along with a 4-pole y-splitter adapter. Plug the headphones and mic into their spots on the splitter and then plug the splitter into your controller (or Mixamp, which I use). Works great.

u/Scorch8482 · 6 pointsr/xboxone

My current setup is A50s and a Modmic plugged into a Y-adapter that plugs into the adapter and so far it works amazing. Let me try to get you links:

-Modmic (incredible quality; built to last and made by a guy who's just starting up):
http://www.modmic.com/

-Y-Adapter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004SP0WAQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1394242076&sr=8-1

-Sennheiser (better for gaming, however the sound leaks so others can hear your music at a low volume (cant be used in public places)) http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004FEEY9A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1394242127&sr=8-1

-A50s (what I have; perfect for music and great for gaming; very private and doesnt leak sound very much):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000ULAP4U/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1394242250&sr=8-2

The modmic is magnetic and will stick
To your headset while having the ability to be taken off with ease to leave the headphones bare. The a50s are awesome for music and pretty good for gaming, but if you do gaming at about a 80-20 ratio to music listening than I would go with Sennheiser 558s or 598s. The y-adapter just allows you to combine both the headphones and the mic into one 3.5 mm AUX jack.

Total cost was about $165 (not including xbone adapter). Fairly good price for better headphones (structurally and sound-quality), ability to use everywhere and not look dumb with an attached mic, listen to music that sounds phenomenal, and speak in crystal clear quality to my buddies (who have already noticed how well it sounded in comparison to the xbone chat headsets).

TLDR: Get audiophile headphones, a modmic, and y adapter for a better and cheaper headset that can be used as normal headphones and as a headset (removable mic).

u/bkharmony · 6 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Higher-End Beginner/Intermediate Setup with Clearomizer or Carto Tank Option


This is a bit of a different recommendation. I've seen some requests lately where someone says, "money is no object." This is for the person with some cash in hand who wants something that's going to last and perform reliably well. I've included recommendations for both a clearomizer and carto tank.

___

ProVari V2.5

18650 AW Batteries for ProVari (get two)

ProVari Extended End Cap to accept 18650 batteries

Provari Wrap (Not necessary, but good to have some protection.)

ProVari Beauty Ring (Not necessary for the recommended tanks, but a nice accessory.)

Kanger Aerotank and
replacement coil heads

AGR Locking Carto Tank

Cartos for AGR (Don't bother with unpunched cartos. Pre-punched are great.)

Luer Lock Syringe for filling AGR Carto Tank

Nitecore i2 Intellicharger

Seduce Juice Sample Pack

The Vapor Chef Butter Beer and Honey Pearry

Drip Tip for cartos

____

Other Great Juice Vendors

Adirondack Vapor - excellent high-grade juice. Placid is a must-try.

DBLiquids - great, affordable juice from a good guy

The Plume Room - excellent flavors that work particularly well in a clearomizer

Alice in Vapeland - subtle, often delicate flavors

Grizzly Vapes - affordable premium juice. Nanner Bear is excellent.

Captivape - solid mid-grade juice from a great vendor

Velvet Cloud Vapor - natural, organic flavorings, 100% VG

u/siZors · 6 pointsr/caving

I don't know if I would trust any headlamp with a USB-C port on it into a cave... it seems like asking for trouble with it getting filled with mud and other nasty stuff. A similar light is the Nitecore HC50, which is $15 cheaper and has red lights. I have this light and have taken it in many muddy, wet caves and have banged it up something good and it is still rocking strong. The beam is awesome, and while it's only 565 lm this is honestly still brighter than useful pretty much always. I typically run it at the second or third brightness setting anyways. My only complaint with this light is that it is a bit heavy, which isn't really a problem when strapped to an ecrin roc, but can be annoying when not using it with a helmet around the camp.

My favorite light is my Zebralight, the hype for this thing is well deserved. While it doesn't have a red light, the form factor is awesome. It is super light on the head without the hassle of a battery in the back. I think many people will agree that the Zebralight H600 series is one of the best caving lights you can get. (note there four versions of the H600, two LED colors cool and neutral, and two beam spreads, flood and spot)

Nitecore makes a blatant ripoff of the Zebralight that is $30 cheaper. While I don't have one of these, I did have a chance to play with one after a buddy of mine got one and it seems to be pretty neat. Considering how much I like my Nitecore HC50 I'm willing to bet this would be a solid light to get as well. One thing I like about the Zebralight over the Nitecore is that it works with flat-top 18650 batteries so you can bust open old laptop batteries and use the cells to power the light, whereas the Nitecore requires a button top 18650. Not a huge issue but something to consider.


Edit (some more thoughts):

It sounds like you are new to caving, welcome! I would recommend that you attend a local grotto meeting, which I believe for you would be the Southern California Grotto. You may meet some awesome people and it's a good way to get involved in the sport.

Also, with your flashlight purchase don't forget to get an 18650 battery and a charger for it. You may already have these since you have the Nitecore MH25 but I figured I'd mention it just in case. Be careful with the batteries to get a reputable brand because there are a lot of fakes out there. Panasonic makes good batteries, but unfortunately there are a lot of ones that say Panasonic that are made somewhere else and a lot of ones that say other things that are made by Panasonic. Confusing! I got this one and it works great. You can take a risk with cheaper ones, just know they might not last so long. This charger works good for me. I've had both of my lights last for a 14 hour cave trip so the battery life is pretty good.


u/dimildarko · 6 pointsr/vaporents

I recently ordered this one off Amazon. Hasn't arrived yet but the reviews seem very good and for $10 what do you have to lose?

u/kenzoyamaguchi · 6 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

If you are looking for a cheap mech/RDA setup, hit up www.fasttech.com. They are great clones for amazing prices. Here is a great little build for under $30. You are going to need a battery and a charger. Both can be picked up on amazon for about $10 a piece.

(DO NOT SKIMP ON BATTERIES FOR A MECH MOD)

4nine Mech mod ($18)

Mutation X V2 RDA ($8)

2 Efest High Drain 18650 Batteries
($17)

Nitecore Charger
($11)

I have the exact setup ^ and it hits like a beast. The mutation X is amazing. The adjustable airflow is awesome, and the flavor/vapor density is super great. If you have any more questions, hit me up.

EDIT: Lol downvotes? I am just trying to help someone out.

u/kakanczu · 6 pointsr/cordcutters

$80 would do it: Logitech Harmony Smart Control with Smartphone App and Simple All In One Remote - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BQ5RYI4/

u/wip30ut · 6 pointsr/Cooking

am i allowed to recommend Food Lab? I know there was some controversy with Reddit and Kenji on his participation (and whether it constituted free advertising or not).

u/Ravenhaft · 6 pointsr/zerocarb

Oh well if you have a cooktop, I use a great recipe I found. I just use a regular stainless steel pan.

  1. Salt generously, then let sit at room temperature for 45 minutes
  2. Heat to med-high heat with 1 tbsp ghee, let it start to smoke just a little bit then throw on the steak.
  3. Cook, flipping every once in awhile, generally about 6 minutes.
  4. Add 1 TBSP of butter and cook for another few minutes. Turn down temperature if it starts smoking too much.

    I do this almost every day and LOVE the ribeyes I get out of it.

    If you want the official recipe buy this book, it's changed my cooking life.

    https://www.amazon.com/Food-Lab-Cooking-Through-Science/dp/0393081087/
u/curlycue · 6 pointsr/LosAngeles

Aight girl-

Foreign Cuisine-
How to Eataly - Oscar Farinetti - We made the most AMAZING brisket meatballs and a super simple yet completely delicious red sauce out of this book
Around My French Table - Dorie Greenspan - Where the Cornish hens and gougeres came from.
Real Korean Cooking - Maangchi - Korean Fried Chicken. We've made them twice now because they're so good and can't wait to do more.
Mexican Everyday - Rick Bayless - Learned how to make perfect guac from this book and so far we've made these v tasty chorizo/mushroom/potato tacos. The recipe is SO cheap and SO voluminous that we had it as a taco filling, a quesadilla filling, and we're making a hash with it for brunch this morning.
Every Grain of Rice - Fuchsia Dunlop - We haven't tried anything out of here yet but there are sooooo many good-looking recipes in here.
Entice with Spice - Shubhra Ramineni - Likewise, haven't made anything out of here yet but looking forward to trying it all out soon.
Jack's Wife Freda - Dean & Maya Jankelowitz - This is actually a book from a restaurant that my fiance and I LOVED when we last visited NYC. It's got a lot of fusion recipes. Mediterranean/Israeli/South African/etc. Really unique flavors and also v comfort-food based. We're making rosewater waffles out of this book tomorrow!


Baking-
Rose's Baking Basics - Rose Levy Barenbaum - This book is incredible. She has tons and tons of step-by-step photos which is SUPER helpful. We made the dark chocolate caramel tart out of this book, but pretty much everything in here looks amazing.
Modern Baking - Donna Hay - I mean... There is some INSANELY decadent looking stuff in here. We haven't tried any of these recipes yet but I can't wait to!


Misc-
Cook Like a Pro - Ina Garten - It was really hard to pick just one Ina book but I liked most of the recipes in this one. She has this ridic recipe for a dijon mustard chicken that is INCREDIBLE. Also, this bitch knows how to cook some veggies. Big fan of this one.
The Food Lab - /u/j_kenji_lopez-alt - I just love this guy, tbh. We've made a really fantastic beef tenderloin out of this book and an incredible red wine sauce to go with it and of course, his famous roasted potatoes which are now my holy grail recipe for roasted potatoes. This book is like a science textbook only instead of boring stuff it's FOOD science, which is my favorite kind.


Those were all the ones we purchased ourselves (though technically Eataly was a gift BUT we love it and plan to use it often.) We have other cookbooks in our stable that we've received as gifts, which is what resulted in my fiance and I deciding we wanted to embark on this journey. We kept being given cookbooks and never doing anything with them. But man, do people love it when you send them pics of stuff you cooked out of a book they gave you. If people give you cookbooks, use them!! It will make their day to see it's being used. Here's what else is on our cookbook shelf-


The Forest Feast Gatherings - Erin Gleeson - This is a vegetarian book my fiance's mom gave us a few years ago for Christmas. We have a bunch of veggie friends (and friends with a lot of different allergies) so we turn to this book to have a few things that are edible by all of them when we have them over, as we often do. This book has a really delicious salad that has pomegranate seeds, pear, and hazelnut that is out of this world good. I also got my HG salad dressing from this book.
The Salad Bowl - Nicola Graimes - Another gift from my fiance's mom. Is she trying to tell us something?? Honestly haven't looked much into this book yet but it sure is pretty.
The Unofficial Harry Potter Cookbook - Dinah Bucholz - This was a gift from the assistant in my office. Everyone in my office knows me as the Harry Potter girl because I have a lightning bolt tattoo, haha. We haven't made anything out of this yet, but we probably will have some sort of epic feast with recipes from this book when GoT starts back up later this year.
Talk About Good - Louisiana Lafayette Junior League - My boss gave this to my fiance and I as part of an engagement gift. My fiance went to school in New Orleans. It's primarily New Orleansian/Cajun food. Haven't made anything out of it yet, but we are looking forward to it.

And that's what's on our cookbook shelf for now.

edit also omg thanks for the gold!! <3

u/KnivesAndShallots · 6 pointsr/Chefit

I love cookbooks, and have probably fifty in my collection.

The ones I keep going back to are:

  • Anything by Yotam Ottolenghi - He's an Israeli-born chef in London, and his recipes are a great combination of creative, relatively easy, and unique. He has a knack for combining unusual flavors, and I've never disliked anything I've cooked from him. If you're relatively green, don't get Nopi (too advanced). His other three or four books are all great.

  • Mexican Everyday by Rick Bayless. Bayless has a PBS show and owns several restaurants in Chicago. He's a great chef and his recipes are accessible and fun.

  • The Food Lab by u/J_Kenji_Lopez-Alt. I was skeptical at first, since Lopez-Alt's website is so comprehensive, but the book is absolutely beautiful and contains both recipes and explanations of technique and science.

  • Modernist Cooking at Home - It's expensive and many of the recipes are challenging and/or require special equipment, but the book is truly groundbreaking and never fails to stoke my creativity. It's the home version of his 6-volume tome which many think is one of the most innovative cookbooks in the last 20 years.
u/tblaich · 6 pointsr/Cooking

Well you can't go wrong with The Food Lab cookbook. It doesn't get too complicated and explains things very well.

A Victorinox Chef's Knife is about 40 dollars and will last him a long time and it can be cool to have one for him.

u/Qodesh-One · 6 pointsr/AskCulinary

Jacques Pépin New Complete Techniques

The America's Test Kitchen Cooking School Cookbook: Everything You Need to Know to Become a Great Cook

The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

From here you can move on to:

Institut Paul Bocuse Gastronomique: The definitive step-by-step guide to culinary excellence

&

Larousse Gastronomique: The World's Greatest Culinary Encyclopedia, Completely Revised and Updated

These are all great resources. Also look for culinary school text books and always youtube.

The resources are out there and with everyone having a different way to learn and adopt information the variety in options is tremendous. Good luck and keep cooking. If you have any questions please reach out and if I can help I will.

u/legalpothead · 6 pointsr/KitchenConfidential

Food Lab.

Dude, don't be rude to people in your own thread.

u/OldFalls · 6 pointsr/podcasts

Something like this

You can spend more and get one with balanced inputs, but even these cheap little ones work well.

u/josefnpat · 6 pointsr/volcas

So this came to a surprise to me, just because I haven't had that much experience with this kind of gear.

Here are my notes:

  1. Plugging in headphones (TRS) to the volca works fine.
  2. Plugging in a stereo cable (TRS) to a normal stereo system works fine.
  3. Plugging in a stereo cable (TRS) to a mixing board = huge amounts of white noise.
  4. Plugging in a mono cable (TS) to a mixing board = works perfectly.

    I don't have enough details, but I think you're connecting your volca (stereo) to a line in (mono) and it's getting messed up because the mixing board is expecting mono.

    I figured this out by taking one of my 3.5mm TRS to 6.35 mm TS cable only using the T and it worked fine.

    My final solution was to buy a TS 3.5mm to TS 6.35mm cable for each of my volcas and everything works fantastically now.

    edit: if you're using a volca sample, which is actually stereo, you'll want to split the TRS to 2x TS and put it into two channels on your mixing board.
u/LS6 · 6 pointsr/audiophile

http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-D3-Digital-Converter-Optical/dp/tech-data/B005K2TXMO

that will do what you describe.

That said, unless some labeling is obscured on your TV pic, it looks like that coax jack is an input.

u/Savatini · 6 pointsr/lifehacks

Try screwing one of these to the bottom side of the desk right next to the hole.
https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Black-2-Inch-91140/dp/B001E1Y5O6

u/UndeadArgos · 6 pointsr/gamecollecting

http://i.imgur.com/8kvZP.jpg - another angle

Fun fact: I bought a pack of 100 Velcro cable ties, and used 90 of them yesterday.

Fun fact: the FMV of the GameCube box is over $400 with a component cable, two Hori digitals, and four Wavebirds.

u/TheMechagodzilla · 6 pointsr/gamecollecting

Velcro (or similar adhesive) strips for the win! Amazon offers a 100 ct. package for $10 USD.

u/DZCreeper · 6 pointsr/buildapc

Gaming headsets suck, period.

https://www.amazon.com/beyerdynamic-770-PRO-Studio-Headphone/dp/B0016MNAAI

Get yourself a nice pair of well reviewed closed back headphones. Open back leaks more noise and tends to have a little less bass.

Then you need a mic you can attach to the side like a regular 'gaming' headset, only except now your audio is high quality.

https://www.amazon.com/d/Computer-Microphones/Antlion-Audio-ModMic-Attachable-Microphone/B00R98JVVU

Then if you want to improve the experience a little more, grab an external DAC and headphone amp.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LP3AMC2

u/metafizikal · 6 pointsr/audiophile

Best answer is probably/maybe. Here are some options at different price points:

$30 UCA202

$76 FiiO E10K

$100 Modi 2

$150 ODAC

u/verifitting · 5 pointsr/headphones

https://blog.jdslabs.com/2018/11/jds-labs-atom-amp-official-release-benchmarks/#comment-23006

they say "this year". If you can wait, you could wait for sure yeah :) you could just get the affordable Fiio E10k for now. It has line out which you can connect to Atom https://www.amazon.de/FiiO-E10K-Olympus-Digital-Kopfhörerverstärker-schwarz/dp/B00LP3AMC2

A good enough temporary solution for sure, there's plenty of people on /r/headphones still using one!

u/xodakahn · 5 pointsr/headphones

The HD598 were my first 'real' headphones. I did like them. But I felt they needed more. These have been my favorite auxiliary equipment. Before you completely give up on the HD598s give a DAC/AMP or even just an AMP at try. (unless you are using one already)

u/c_galaxy · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I had the same problem. Best way to get ride of this static would be to remove your analog audio from the inside of your computer.

I would get an external DAC/AMP or DAC/AMP combo. I use the FiiO e10k. $75 on Amazon It's a pretty good little DAC/Amp.

u/king_of_the_ayleids · 5 pointsr/audio

Game engines use their own 3d stereo sound processing so virtual 7.1 isn't really worth much. I would recommend getting an external sound card (DAC/AMP). I would recommend this http://www.amazon.com/AUDIOQUEST-DRAGONFLY-V1-2-USB-DAC/dp/B00H00VLZQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1426275640&sr=1-1&keywords=audioquest+dragonfly or this http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1426275640&sr=1-6&keywords=audioquest+dragonfly

You could also peak around /r/headphones. There's a ton of discussion there about these things. There's no upper limit to quality or what you can spend on Digital to Analog Converters and Amplifiers.

You could also just search amazon for sound cards, but if you're only using it for headphones make sure you're not wasting money on cards that have speaker outputs. The one's I recommended aren't cheap, but you will appreciate the quality.

u/kinoshitajona · 5 pointsr/PS4

On Amazon, search for "microphone splitter adapter" and find one that looks like this:

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-MUYHSMFF-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1411316777&sr=1-3&keywords=microphone+splitter+adapter

Then connect the headphone part to a set of speakers. (if your sound system accepts Red/White cables as input, you can buy a 3.5 mm stereo jack to Red/White cable converter at many different lengths.) Then connect your pin mic to the mic connector and connect both to the controller via the adapter.

As the audio from the TV and the headphones might be different, I'd recommend connecting the headphone part to a separate set of speakers.

I feel for your condition. I don't like headphones either, but I don't have some condition.

u/severianb · 5 pointsr/xboxone

Both will work, you just need to get one of these adapters if you don't already have one: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ

The surround sound (Windows Sonic for Headphones or Dolby Atmos for Headphones) will work on everything. No worries there. It's the mic monitoring (being able to hear yourself talk) that doesn't work with the original headphone adapter: https://www.xbox.com/en-US/xbox-one/accessories/headsets/stereo-headset-adapter

Mic monitoring DOES work on the newer Xbox One controllers that have a built in 3.5mm jack or the mini-keyboard attachment. I use the keyboard attachment on my old controller to get mic monitoring.

Here is the keyboard attachment I'm talking about: https://www.xbox.com/en-US/xbox-one/accessories/communications/chatpad

u/ShakeItTilItPees · 5 pointsr/xboxone

That's the problem. Here's what you will need: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ

Notice that this one has four conductors and yours has three. Don't waste your time looking in stores because it's very rare that anybody has it. Unfortunately you're gonna have to wait for shipping. You can find the same adapter on Newegg and Walmart.com if you would prefer.

u/cjs911217 · 5 pointsr/headphones

You'll also need one of these. The splitter isn't going to work unless the bit that plugs into your controller is four pole (three black lines).

u/JollyGoodShow420 · 5 pointsr/xboxone

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SP0WAQ?ie=UTF8&at=&force-full-site=1&ref_=aw_bottom_links

I use this to connect my Siberia v2 headset to the chat adapter and it works perfectly :)

u/BangsNaughtyBits · 5 pointsr/podcasts

A full setup that will record four local mics, max, or two local mics and a Skype caller. A choice of mics.

Behringer UMC404HD interface for $100 (needs a USB cable I think)

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UMC404HD-BEHRINGER-U-PHORIA/dp/B00QHURLHM/

Behringer HA400 headphone amp for $25

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HA400-BEHRINGER-MICROAMP/dp/B000KIPT30/

Needs two TRS 1/4" stereo cables, one for the headphone amp and one for Skype. $10

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CSS-105-Balanced-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068NYF/

Behringer XM1800S three pack of good enough mics for $40

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-XM1800S-BEHRINGER-ULTRAVOICE/dp/B000NJ2TIE/

or a slightly better Behringer XM8500 at $20 each

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Ultravoice-Dynamic-Microphone-Cardioid/dp/B0002KZAKS/

or a very nice Blue enCORE 100 at $60

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Microphones-enCORE-100-Studio-Grade/dp/B002SQJL9U/

A couple 9-foot XLR cables for $12 or vary as you see fit

https://www.amazon.com/2-Pack-Cable-Male-Female-Microphone/dp/B074KYQ66J/

On-Stage, desk stand for $13 (lots of options)

https://www.amazon.com/Stage-DS7200-Adjustable-Microphone-Stand/dp/B0002M3OVI/

You need some RCA to 1/4" TS cables. Technically two though there are reasons up to four and this six pack is cheap at $8. Wish they were shorter.

https://www.amazon.com/GLS-Audio-Patch-Cable-Cords/dp/B0010XVYGA/

or you can get by with one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CPR-201-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O16/

and my personal favorite, the UCA202 for $30

https://www.amazon.com/BEHRINGER-U-Control-Low-Latency-Interface-Digital/dp/B000KW2YEI/

This gives you full Skype access to the other rig for Two local mics.

!

u/ThickAsABrickJT · 5 pointsr/audioengineering

If you're talking about something like the Behringer HA400, then there should be minimal (if any) effect on the sound when it comes to your monitors.

That said, your headphones might be another story. A lot of cheap headphone amplifiers have a resistor in between the amplifier chip and the headphone jack. Because headphones are low impedance (16Ω-60Ω) and this impedance changes with frequency, this can cause the frequency response to be different from what it should be. Your monitors have high-impedance inputs that won't be affected by this resistor.

Really, the only thing you can do (aside from opening up the headphone amp, if you're familiar with electrical engineering) is to do a listening test.

u/altodor · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace

If you spend $0.84 cents more you can get these, which are the best thing Amazon sells.

u/Einsteins_coffee_mug · 5 pointsr/synthesizers

Those are some expensive damn Velcro straps!

I use these which I got off amazon for around $10/100.

And I’ve used nearly half already. Also used for my entertainment center management.

u/meltvideo · 5 pointsr/delusionalartists
u/Reanimations · 5 pointsr/buildapc

If you want a recommendation, I have the FiiO E10K DAC, and it's great. The bass boost switch on the front is a nice touch.

u/Brostradamus_ · 5 pointsr/buildapc

Then just get a good set of regular headphones + a DAC. Head to r/headphones and get a good recommendation at your price point + Buy this DAC. Sennheiser HD 598's are a very popular "budget" option.

audio technica m40x/m50x's are also very good.

u/jas0nb · 5 pointsr/battlestations

Are they 32/80/250 ohms? I'm guessing they're not 32 considering the amp in the back. What amp is that, also? Looks like this guy https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2/ but it's hard to tell for sure.

u/beefqeef · 5 pointsr/WorldofTanks

If you're willing to spend a decent chunk of money on a sound card, don't. Get an external DAC- it does the same as a sound card but is further isolated from interference in your computer. Some also have built in volume controls and mute buttons.

I use a Scarlett Solo with audiotechnica M50X headphones.

This is a good small DAC.
FiiO E10K Headphone Amplifier and DAC https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00LP3AMC2/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Sh8FxbGKRG5TQ

And this is one which I use.
Focusrite Scarlett Solo 2nd Gen 2 in 2 Out USB Audio Interface https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01E6T56CM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Xi8Fxb55YAY5D


Edit: It's not worth it unless you have a good quality headphone set. I would recommend the audiotechnica M40 or M50 headphones for very good quality at low prices compared to other brands.

u/SilknSkies · 5 pointsr/buildapc

Why not get an external DAC/AC like this?

u/ShotgunBFFL · 5 pointsr/headphones
u/TrackieDaks · 5 pointsr/BuyItForLife

Yep, just got myself some Brainwavz memory foam pads:
Brainwavz Replacement Memory Foam Earpads

Much nicer for my big head.

u/Qubix1 · 5 pointsr/headphones

With the stock ATH-m50 pads, do they rest on your ears? The stock pads are rather small and round, not well designed for people with larger or sensitive ears. I replaced them with Brainwavz HM5 http://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Replacement-Memory-Foam-Earpads/dp/B00MFDT894

The pad is much more comfortable than the stock pad as it is more oval than round and my ears actually fit inside of the pad instead of touching it. The pleather is more supple and the memory foam more conforming to the side of my head. It makes a better seal and is more isolating.

u/Feilong4 · 5 pointsr/headphones

I had a pair and they look very nice! The earcups are very striking in appearance. Kinda regret selling them.

The drivers are dynamic and are 20mm in diameter. According to a source, they were released in 1976 and ended production around 1982-83. They originally retailed for 6,000 yen or about 55 USD. I measured the impedance and they were around 50-60 ohms - I forgot the exact number.

Believe it or not, these are semi-open - there are some vents along the circumference of the brown backplate. Here's a picture of the location of the vents. If you open them up and tilt them at the right angle, you can see there are openings/vents.

Here's how the drivers look like. Surprisingly heavy drivers - weighs a bit like a D battery. The weight is possibly due to the thick magnets.

In one of the pictures I linked, I used Brainwavz earpads on mine when I had them. With the Brainwavz pads, not too amazing but warm and pleasant. With the original pads, I found them to be very honky and bass light. Might be worth a shot if you may be interested. Oh, and the original earpads are just adhered on - if you wanted to open them up or try the pads I linked, you can peel them right off though do it slowly so that the fabric underneath don't rip. The original earpads can be re-adhered with some glue-stick.

Awesome find btw! You don't see those around very often!

u/VelcroSnake · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Nice. Something I did with my Pok3r was buy a set of the white keycaps.

Also, something you might want to look at for the Clouds is a pair of Brainwavz Pads.

u/hakobo · 5 pointsr/headphones

I bought these and put them on my m50s and now I can wear them forever. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MFDX4YO/ They do leak a tad more sound now, but nothing crazy.

u/sherm137 · 5 pointsr/ZReviews

They are solid, but just be aware, that Z only recommends those with different ear pads. https://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Velor-Memory-Replacements-Earpads/dp/B00MFDX4YO. It's an extra expense (only $20) but it might put you out of budget.

​

Also, you will want to eventually save up for an amp/dac combo unless you have a great motherboard. Most motherboards will be able to power the m40x, but you won't get the most out of them. A solid entry-level amp/dac is here: https://www.amazon.com/FX-Audio-Optical-Coaxial-Amplifier/dp/B072JJT7SF/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1549221478&sr=1-3&keywords=fx+audio+dac-x6

​

Also, the Cloud Hyperx 2 are actually some decent headphones. I'm not sure you will be getting that much of an upgrade going to m40x. If it's an option, wait, save up $50 and buy the Sennheiser hd58x Jubilees on Massdrop. You seriously won't regret it and your mind will be blown.

u/imadp · 5 pointsr/battlestations

Hey, thats my shop! Glad to see you put your shadow boxes to good use! Your setup looks great and is surprisingly similar to mine (I love that monitor, but I had to return mine a few times to get one without backlight bleed). Maybe I'll post my station later in the week.

About the cables, I don't know if your desk is too thick, but I bought some of those black binder clips from office supply stores and clamped them to the back of my desk, and then I ran wires through them and secured them with velcro straps. Even if that doesn't work, these velcro straps are awesome for bundling wires: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1Y5O6

Thanks to everyone else for your interest in my shadow boxes, I'll be working hard to get your orders out and I'll have some new NES scenes up soon as well. Check back this week!

u/dhagkn · 5 pointsr/battlestations

These are great to use for almost any desk, regardless of the location. Pacifically or Atlantic.

u/DISKFIGHTER2 · 5 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

If anyone missed out on the velcro ties from last time, theyre on sale again but even cheaper. The product is not sold by Amazon but by a third party seller; 3-BALA.

According to camelcamelcamel, the lowest price was $0.55 however the lowest most recent price was around $2-$3 back in late July-August.

u/--0_-_0-- · 5 pointsr/nashville

I pulled the dish down and mounted one of these on it's bracket.. I get every channel around. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024R4B5C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aEHwDbTXYGPB5

u/sivartk · 5 pointsr/cordcutters

If your channels are all in the same direction just get a directional antenna as it will do better pulling in stations from further in that direction than an omni-directional antenna. Something like this RCA Yagi antenna.

I personally prefer -- uh trust -- something that resembles an old school antenna, but maybe that is just my bias and how well the antenna in my attic works that is an "old school" (pre-HDTV era) antenna.

u/kreimerd · 5 pointsr/cordcutters

Yeah you need a larger antenna. Those flat antennas have never worked for me. There's a lot of marketing hype on antennas, but it usually comes down to height and direction. I've got one of these on my roof and I went from spotty signals with 3-4 channels to around 40 channels. I live like 20 miles from the signals I'm picking up too. I ran coax to every room in the house with a tv, sending them all to the basement, where I connected them all together with a splitter and sent the one coax up the side of the house to the roof.

u/iwtwyad · 5 pointsr/321

WESH is the toughest to get, from my experience. I live near downtown Melbourne and here's what I did:

I have this antenna mounted to this pole and run into this amplifier, which then goes to all of my TVs. The pole must be placed as high as possible where the antenna can point towards the northwest.

I used this website to get the number of degrees the WESH tower is from my location, then used a standard compass to point the antenna directly at the WESH tower.

Not only do I get WESH, but I get every other OTA channel that I know of, and a whole bunch that I wish I didn't.

u/MostlyBullshitStory · 5 pointsr/VIDEOENGINEERING

These should still strip HDCP: https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Powered-Splitter-1080P-Model/dp/B004F9LVXC

​

Been using them for years to get DirectTV box HDMI into older switchers.

u/cheald · 5 pointsr/Reaper

This is probably because of HDCP. You might be able to get it to work using an HDCP-compliant splitter like this one to strip the HDCP protections from the signal.

u/-Quantumcross · 5 pointsr/AndroidQuestions

If the microphone has a standard output in addition to USB, you could always try something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SP0WAQ

u/jimirigger · 5 pointsr/xboxone

It looks like it has 3.5mm mic and 3.5mm headset connectors. You'd need a 2x3-pole to 1x4-pole connector. I use this one from Amazon.

u/eegras · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace

The Antlion Modmic would fit this need really well.

Or are you looking for something like this?

u/U_DONT_KNOW_MY_LIFE · 5 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

this is a charger recommended to my by another redditor when i was thinking about getting the vamo. It's on amazon.

u/BeardedAlbatross · 5 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Alright, the problem here is your TV has no variable or line level RCA outputs. I'm going to offer a couple of options:

  1. An optical DAC with a remote line level controller and powered monitors. DAC, Remote volume control, Really good sounding powered monitors. Wait til they go down to about $240 for the pair or buy them on massdrop now, you have 9 hours to decide. Totals to $300

  2. Same setup as above, but will switch out the JBLs for something cheaper and totals to about $200. Wait til the Micca PB42X are in stock at amazon. They run $120. If you can swing for the JBLs, do it though.

  3. The best option in my opinion, would be to get a cheap 5.1 receiver with an optical input. You can pair this with any pair of passive speaker you want, you can purchase a used receiver from craigs or ebay, you can add a center channel at a later date, and more importantly, you can add a subwoofer when your budget allows and have proper bass management with high and low pass filters and eq.
u/totallywontstabyou · 5 pointsr/audiophile

Here's a cheaper option for the OP if he isn't using anything fancy.

u/flecom · 5 pointsr/headphones

as far as cheap dacs this thing sounds pretty good to me, way better than it's $20 price tag

https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=fiio+dac&qid=1563877792&s=electronics&sr=1-7

I use one at work so if it get's stolen I won't be heart-broken

u/realmain · 5 pointsr/Amd

I personally use these velcro for cable management. Just be creative with it :P

u/bugmochi · 5 pointsr/Flipping

These are also pretty awesome: http://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-ONE-WRAP-Self-Gripping-Cable-Reusable/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1457283089&sr=8-3&keywords=velcro+cable+ties I originally bought them for personal use but also use them for electronics I sell.

u/livestrong2109 · 5 pointsr/homelab

It sounds an awful lot like you could probably reduce all that down to one server. Not saying it to be mean I just think you can reduce your power bill quite a bit and have the extra machines as failover.

Especially with the Mac Mini there are ways of getting OS X to run on hyper-v or esxi. I know a lot of people use them for home automation.

Also please buy some Velcro - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E1Y5O6/

u/Baron_Von_D · 5 pointsr/techsupportgore

Even if this was setup by Comcast, I would have gone in there and did some cable maintenance.
Masking tape, crimped/cut cables, zip ties, all needs to be pulled out and properly tied up with some velcro straps. w

u/smurfcosmonaut · 5 pointsr/sysadmin
  1. Take pictures before you start.
  2. Document what you unplugged
  3. Check any cables you reuse for wear
  4. Document what you plugged in and where
  5. Take pictures of when you are done

    If you haven't already, invest in some Velcro Straps
u/PrettyCoolBear · 5 pointsr/synthesizers

The Velcro cable ties I ordered from Amazon were the best music related purchase I made in 2014.

u/GamerFenton · 5 pointsr/battlestations

I have a power strip located on the underside of the desk that powers the PC, 3 monitors, and speakers. It is held in place by a cable management net that comes included with the Ikea Bekant desk.

I used a lot of velcro ties to group up any cables coming from a similar area. You can get a pack of 100 ties on Amazon for $10. Once they were grouped I kinda just threw them into the cable management net, there's probably a more elegant way of doing it, but I didn't want to spend even more time trying to do that 😅

Here are some pics of how I did it

u/CHF64 · 5 pointsr/buildapc

If you're looking for something that's more permanent for the HD mounting try these out. I find that over time (a few months) rubber bands start to crack, fall apart, and become glued to anything they are touching, especially if whatever they are touching is warm.

u/EnlightN · 5 pointsr/battlestations

Here, take these! You need them...... all three.

u/BornOnFeb2nd · 5 pointsr/cablefail

This will help you clear up most of that and these will take care of most of the rest.

If those are random cables going into the wall, then get a keystone jack or something.

u/Seref15 · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

Not on sale, but if I were you I'd invest in these: https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Black-2-Inch-91140/dp/B001E1Y5O6 Velcro, but loops on itself like a zip tie for easy tensioning.

u/AXISMGT · 5 pointsr/macsetups

Good to go! Nice setup. I'd probably suggest 2 things:
-Velcro wire ties for the cabling
VELCRO Brand One Wrap Thin Ties, Black, 8 x 1/2-Inch, 100 Count (91140) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E1Y5O6/

-DuetDisplay for the iPad. I have it for my surface and ipad and it's been awesome. Turns your iPad into a portable second monitor And it keeps the touch capabilities of the iPad.
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/duet-display/

u/spindrjr · 5 pointsr/buildapc

These are what we use to organize cables for clients at my IT job. They are also very reasonably priced.

u/godsmalak · 5 pointsr/livesound

I've been using these for years.

https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Black-2-Inch-91140/dp/B001E1Y5O6

They've served me well, and are easy to work with. I've used cords, other straps, dealt with venues that tie the XLR to itself(shudder), etc.
I use the orange cable reels for the majority of my cables now, but still use these straps with what doesn't go on the reels.

u/deelowe · 5 pointsr/oddlysatisfying

What if you need to add capacity, move a cable due to a bad port, upgrade to device with a different port configuration? What about tracing bad cables during bring up? What about the ties putting too much pressure on the cable causing it to break a fiber or go out of spec with regards to impedence?

These are the way to go: https://smile.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Black-2-Inch-91140/dp/B001E1Y5O6?sa-no-redirect=1

You can buy them cheap in bulk, they work just as good as plastic ties, they won't damage cables and they are reusable.

u/B-80 · 5 pointsr/malelivingspace

Your room is really functional, and you're trading off style for function. Honestly, if you really want to make your room look nicer, take the Computer and Musical instruments out, replace the space with some seating, and a small table (maybe with a TV), leave some open space in your room.

As far as what you can do with what you have... Most students are in the same position you are, not a lot of space for our stuff and everything we have is there because it functions well. For instance, that chair that you have is an eyesore, but I'm sure it's comfy and you spend a lot of time in it (I have pretty much the same thing in my room, crappy looking chair, but I love to sit on it; in fact I actually have the same Chassis and speakers as you as well...).

Here's what you can do... Pick a Color Scheme, lose the blinds, and move your desk in front of the window if you're going to keep it. It would be best if you could kind of center it at the window, but I don't see anywhere else you can put your bed.

Your computer is the only thing which can't change color, so go with sometimes like White/Orange, stay away from dull colors and grays, take a chance, paint the walls with orange and white stripes or something(I like orange and white if you didn't notice).

Next, make sure everything is organized. Your room isn't dirty or really messy, but it's cluttered, it looks like everything was just thrown in there. Grab a couple of storage cabinets, shove them in your closet, and throw everything in there that you can bare to not have at arms reach (take some chances, you can always keep something out if you find that you need it too often). Do your best to clear up as much desk space as possible. A desk is not a storage space, it's a workspace, it looks best when it's cleared off.

Thus musical stuff will always look poorly in your room; it has too many wires. If you can find a place to put it elsewhere in the house, that would be best, otherwise, grab these and use them on every cord. Take a second to wind everything up when you're done using it and keep all of the cords out of sight when you're not using them.

Putting some stuff on your walls would be cool too, I like that everything you have up is framed. In my opinion, A few framed items or a lot of unframed items look great on a wall, but I think having a couple of loose posters looks tacky. A few more framed items would be cool (band posters/artwork/movie posters, whatever you're into).

Finally, never understood the rug on carpet thing, especially if it's just another solid color, and especially if that other solid color is black. I would ditch it, if you want a rug, get something colorful and contemporary (this is really the key word for you). The rug is an opportunity to have a centerpiece/focal point/glue that holds the room together, so keep that in mind if you go shopping for another one.

And of course, pick up the chair, clean your closet, put away your vacuum, fix your light bulbs, and pick all that shit up off the floor you lazy son of a bitch...

u/RemnantHaru · 5 pointsr/battlestations

Start with some velcro cable ties like these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1Y5O6

u/bugeats · 5 pointsr/synthesizers

Sell all your unused gear and then buy 100 packs of these cable ties.

Buy a nice desk.

But really, just sell the gear you don't use. Less is more.

u/Howard_Campbell · 5 pointsr/Cooking

The food lab is the book. The blog is serious eats.

http://www.amazon.com/Food-Lab-Cooking-Through-Science/dp/0393081087

u/eloreb · 5 pointsr/xxfitness

I don't really have advice on your original post, but I used to be just like you when it came to cooking. Cooking for me consisted of throwing a piece of chicken on my George Foreman grill until it was burnt (no salmonella for me!) and eating raw vegetables because they required no cooking.

There is so, so SO much info out there on how to cook. If you love watching videos, look up videos on YouTube. If you love reading, invest in some cookbooks. If you have a friend who loves to cook and does it well, ask him/her for some basic lessons.

Aside from my boyfriend who loves to cook (thankfully), I've learned the majority of my cooking skills through some great cookbooks. The Whole30 book has so many great beginner tips and delicious, obviously healthy recipes; even when I'm not doing Whole30, I constantly refer to this book for recipes! If you're a science/chemistry person, The Food Lab is pretty amazing.

I think a lot of people get scared of cooking because YES it can totally be daunting and time-consuming and hard! But it doesn't have to be. You don't need to make gourmet meals for yourself every night; just figure out some flavor profiles you love and recipes that are easy.

u/kperkins1982 · 5 pointsr/Cooking

Kenji Lopez-Alt has perfected the perfect scambled eggs in the book The Food Lab

it is basically salting the eggs, waiting 5 minutes, then stirring as little as possible for a couple minutes and it makes the perfect fluffy scrambled eggs

https://www.amazon.com/Food-Lab-Cooking-Through-Science/dp/0393081087/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1491628494&sr=1-1&keywords=the+food+lab

u/OklaJosha · 5 pointsr/FoodPorn

He's not being pretentious, he actually knows his shit. This is the guy who wrote a #1 bestseller cooking book (New York Times & Amazon)

http://www.amazon.com/The-Food-Lab-Cooking-Through/dp/0393081087

And was called a "cooking savant" by NPR

/r/seriouseats has a lot of his recipes.

u/mochajava916 · 5 pointsr/Cooking

The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science https://www.amazon.com/dp/0393081087/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0ZLZBbEQMDFEA

u/gregmo7 · 5 pointsr/Cooking

If you love to read, then I completely back up those who recommended J Kenji Lopez-Alt's "The Food Lab". He also spends some time on /r/seriouseats, which I think is really great. Food Lab is great because it explains not only HOW to make a recipe, but the WHY a recipe works the way that it does, and allows you to expand your cooking skills. His is not the only book that does this, but I've read Salt Fat Acid Heat and The Science of Cooking and a good portion of the tome that is Modernist Cuisine, but Kenji's style of writing is exceptionally approachable.

But my actual suggestion to someone who wants to go from never cooking to cooking healthy meals at home is to watch the recipes on Food Wishes, because he shows you what each step of the recipe is supposed to look like, and his food blog is not filled with flowery stories, but helpful tips.

Another great online resource that I used when I started cooking about 5 years ago was The Kitchn. They offer up basic technique videos on how to cook proteins and vegetables that are really simple to follow for beginners.

My advice to you is this: don't feel like you need to dive immediately into recipes. First learn how to season and cook a chicken breast or steak consistently, and roast the different kinds of vegetables. Then just start jumping into recipes that you want to try. And don't be afraid to ask questions here :)

u/Spongebert · 5 pointsr/de

Das dazugehörige Buch ist aber wirklich das Geld wert. Da gehts nicht so sehr um Rezepte, als um Techniken die man ohne Probleme übernehmen kann um Sachen die man eventuell seit Jahren auf ne bestimmte Weise macht, noch ein wenig zu verbessern.

u/Jeade-en · 5 pointsr/running

I had Kenji's cookbook in my hands last week and reluctantly put it back down. It's not running related...it's just geeky food science related. I'm a fan of Kenji and the whole group at Serious Eats

u/Cdresden · 5 pointsr/KitchenConfidential



Lately, I've very much been enjoying Kenji's The Food Lab. I think it's worth the (ebook) price just for the chapter on fried foods.

I also keep coming back to The Flavor Bible, which has lists of how to combine ingredients for different cuisines.

If you want a valuable collection of recipes and have $50 to spend, get Cook's Illustrated's The New Best Recipe. It's supplanted The Joy of Cooking on my shelf.

u/forhelvede · 5 pointsr/techsupport

Does the the tv have phono/RCA on the back? If yes you should be able to use something like this to get sound to the docking station and still get sound from the TV speakers.

u/obito07 · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/mustfix · 5 pointsr/buildapc

Doubtful, since desktop cases have so much more room compared to laptops or smartphones (where this is used), that it doesn't make economical sense to retool/redesign. Maybe some mITX cases?

You'll have better luck just getting a splitter.

u/grendelone · 5 pointsr/hometheater

> our HTR (Sony STR DN1030) does not have a true analog input that he can connect his phone to using a 3.5mm cable.

This is not correct. Your receiver has plenty of RCA analog inputs. A simple 3.5mm to RCA cable will connect the phone to one of the line inputs. You have at least two sets of RCA analog audio in's on the lower left (looking at the back).

$8 on Amazon or available at any Best Buy, Walmart, Target, etc.:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1497064068&sr=1-4&keywords=aux+to+rca

u/Wulmar · 5 pointsr/headphones

Check the link below:

AmazonBasics 3.5mm to 2-Male RCA Adapter Cable - 8 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mpfaCb2WZ9XBZ

It’s cheap and works well, if you don’t plan on using external DAC that cable should be all you need :)

Enjoy your Magni :)

u/pswii360i · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

You're going to need an amplifier to use them on your pc. I personally use a powered subwoofer that connects my speakers to my pc. You can find cheap amps on Amazon for like 20 bucks.

This one for example seems like it would work. Just plug your pc audio out into the audio input on the amp and connect the speakers via speaker wire to the terminals. I've used very similar devices with my bs22's and it worked great. You just may need an rca to 3.5mm adapter to connect your pc to the amp, like this one.

I'm bad at explaining things, if you have any more questions let me know!

u/mr_oysterhead92 · 5 pointsr/livesound

One of these cables in the Red & White jacks on Channel 7-8 will work https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8KO2?th=1

u/LBriar · 5 pointsr/audioengineering

An 1/8" (laptop/iPad) to RCA (KRK unbalanced in) cable. Don't try to go stuffing an unbalanced out into the 1/4"/XLR ins.

Optionally, a pair of HS8s.

u/Namekian66 · 5 pointsr/GrassHopperVape

https://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-i2-Intellicharge-Charger-Battery/dp/B0096U26QQ

It doesn't seem to be sold in physical stores but you can get it from amazon pretty quick.

u/mcfarlie6996 · 5 pointsr/flashlight

Hello and welcome to the world of flashlights!!

So I looked on Amazon at the packages they have and saw that this was their best package which comes with the flashlight, Nitecore i2 Charger, and a Nitecore 3400mah battery for $99.95. If you bought these specific items separate they'd add up to $104.84. So not much of a savings but 5 bucks is 5 bucks.

Now if you wanted to get a different package, there's this for $99.95 which the only difference is that it comes with two 2300mah batteries instead of one which technically adds up to a combined 4600mah but of course you'd have a much lower runtime per battery. I'd prefer the keeping the 3400mah package instead because you might not always want to carry an extra battery on you.

A third option would be to the buy the flashlight and charger separate and to buy the battery here at ILLUMN which will come to a total of .... fuck... $99.82... so it's not cheaper to get it separate using a different brand of the same quality battery.

Well let me know if you have any questions. 3400mah is the highest capacity battery which they are typically the most expensive too but there are ways around that. The runtime it shows on the specs are most likely with the use of a 2600mah battery so with a 3400mah battery, you should expect a ~30% longer runtime.

u/TokeFerPedro · 5 pointsr/Waxpen

The Tesla TC70 Stealths are on sale. Get that, the regular Sai kit with all coils and a pair of batteries so you have a spare and a charger.


A little more than the kit but will get you more options and some of the more reliable batteries in the biz.

u/bobby-t1 · 5 pointsr/PleX

I have this this harmony remote and hub and until your comment, didn't know it worked over bluetooth. Thanks!

Looking at the details page of the Shield TV (non-Pro 2017 model), and in the customer Q&A, a person says:

> I have used that with a Logitech harmony elite remote which uses a remote hub to control the shield tv via Bluetooth. Looks like i should be good to go!

u/xythian · 5 pointsr/ShieldAndroidTV

I'm just using the basic Logitech Harmony Smart Control.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQ5RYI4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8

Works like a charm and controls my TV, AVR, and Shield.

u/applevinegar · 5 pointsr/audiophile

A pair of LSR305s and this cable.

u/sharkamino · 5 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Logitech is r/PCSound.

r/BudgetAudiophile is for better bookshelf speakers.

>This subreddit is for the budget minded audiophile that wants to grow out of boomboxes, bluetooth speakers and PC branded audio solutions (Logitech).

Lowest budget are:

u/cr0ft · 5 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Ideally, if you're connecting a PC to anything that makes noise, use an optical Toslink. Those are not electrically conductive, which means the only thing that gets transferred across is the digital sound data. Ground loops become impossible.

This obviously requires that whatever you connect to (an amplifier, or powered speakers) have an optical in. Alternatively, you could go with something like this https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO

Without an optical out, you might wind up needing one of these, too: https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE or something along those lines.

This all does cost more than a ground loop isolator, but it also doesn't do serious damage to the quality of the audio. It's better to break the electrical connection between the units than to try to filter out the 50/60 Hz line noise.

u/Dayum_Son · 5 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Mech - I have the magneto and it preforms like a champ. Absolutely no complaints. I'd look at a nemesis clone by hcigar as well.

http://www.vaperoyalty.com/hcigar-nemesis-mod/

http://www.myvaporstore.com/SMOKTech_Magneto_Stainless_VE_p/smok-ssve.htm


Atty - Igo W. It has amazing preformance, and for $20 or so you cant beat it. I'd also recomend this top cap. It will make it look flush on a magneto, nemesis or any 22mm mod. It fits right on top of the Igo W and gives you airflow control. Watch the video on their site.

http://www.v-apes.com/The-Vapes-Cap-for-the-IGO-W_p_515.html

http://www.myvaporstore.com/IGO_W_Rebuildable_Atomizer_p/yd-igow.htm


Batteries - Sony Vtc4. Best batteries. you can get two for under $25. Make sure you get at least 2.

http://www.myvaporstore.com/SONY_VTC4_18650_2000mAh_Battery_Flat_Top_30A_p/sny65020-f.htm


Charger - In my opinion the Nitecore i4 is the best charger. It gets the job done and is dirt cheap on Amazon and free two day shipping with prime.

http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-IntelliCharger-i4-Battery-Charger/dp/B005UAI372/ref=sr_sp-atf_title_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398042719&sr=8-1&keywords=nitecore+i4

u/DPSnacks · 4 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

TRS cable out of your headphone jack -> split to two TS cables -> inputs of the 4 track cassette recorder

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/

u/kamintar · 4 pointsr/buildapcsales

I would recommend you just get a small DAC with an optical input and RCA outputs. If you don't need anything but a stereo, digital-analog audio converter then it is very overkill. Fiio has something really small I was using at work, and it's perfect for this situation. Just run the optical cable from your motherboard.

https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO

Using an external DAC with optical will provide the least noise of all options (internal sound card, external DAC through USB, or optical) because no conversion happens within the PC. This also allows you a little more freedom of placement because you can get a longer optical cable and place the DAC where you need, closer to your speakers.

u/eepytjuh · 4 pointsr/PS4
u/Grazsrootz · 4 pointsr/PS4

Here's Exactly what you are looking for. LINK
there are more inexpensive options, but this one is highly rated and comes with the optical cable

And then one of these to convert the Output (RCA) to 3.5mm
LINK


I'm going to be honest with you. By the time you buy this you would probably be better off buying an inexpensive surround souind with an optical input. Sony also makes wireless headphones that are compatible with the PS3 and PS4
I have this one and they work and sound awesome

Elite Version

u/Glordit · 4 pointsr/PS4

Not unless you have a "headphone out" on your screen or you could use a DAC: http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1382205551&sr=1-1&keywords=DAC
That DAC would convert Optical to RCA then you could use a normal speaker set.

u/moostapha · 4 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

According to Amazon and Nitecore, yes. It will charge NiMH batteries.

But I haven't used it. I'm sure the manual is available somewhere from that second link.

u/desentizised · 4 pointsr/howto

Actually your first image shows an adapter you would need on airplanes where they have those weird double plugs (whoever came up with those must've had a bit too much of something, amirite?).

What OP probably needs is this. This thing enables you to turn a single plug headset into a dual-plug headset so you can plug in the headphone-jack and microphone-jack separately like you would on most computers.

The opposite would be this which would enable you to use a regular pc-headset with 2 plugs to plug it into your single headset jack on your smartphone or macbook etc.

u/strategicdeceiver · 4 pointsr/audiophile
u/DarkStarPDX · 4 pointsr/livesound

Hmm... Headphone amplifier maybe?

http://amzn.com/B000KIPT30 (or something like this)?

u/TheBuzzerBeater · 4 pointsr/Coachella

These things in case of high winds...

3 Pair Motorcycle Riding Glasses, or any other "padded sunglasses". They keep the dust out, look decent and are cheap.

12-in-1 Headband, they come in a ton of patterns too. They're better than a bandana and good when it's hot/cold.

VELCRO One Wrap Thin Ties, Black, 8 x 1/2-Inch. I use these things for everything.

u/TensionVex · 4 pointsr/synthesizers
u/dmikalova · 4 pointsr/lifehacks

We use Velcro cable ties at work and now I use them at home too.

u/CBRjack · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I second the velcro choice. $7 on amazon for 100 velcro ties.

u/bdubble · 4 pointsr/Flipping

Hey if you want to up your condition presentation game get some of these cheap velcro cable ties - https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-ONE-WRAP-Management-Self-Gripping/dp/B001E1Y5O6

u/CopiousAmountsofJizz · 4 pointsr/synthesizers

I did professional cable management for the past 14 months or so. For me and my team this stuff was the absolute shit:

https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-ONE-WRAP-Management-Self-Gripping/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1474004500&sr=8-5&keywords=velcro

Anytime we would start running low we'd all start hoarding it to ourselves like it was toilet paper after the apocalypse. We also had some techniques like creating a cable sausage where you fold the cable into a sausage, velcro the center, slide the wrap to one side of the sausage then strap another piece to the center and slide that out to the other end of the sausage. Was a handy trick I still use at home.

u/sonsofaureus · 4 pointsr/malelivingspace

You might have tried this already, but how about instead of your back to the wall, the desk goes up against the same wall? This will help with the following:

  1. Cable management - cables hide between the desk and the wall, reducing visible, but not actual clutter. If you're really anal about it, these cheap things will help with cable organization grommet drill + some velcro cable ties
  2. Awkard positioning - if you mean you're bumping your head when you stand up (perhaps making the soundproof foam on the slanted wall necessary), placing the desk against that wall will create more headroom
  3. You have the PC with the front side facing away from you - maybe to avoid having the clear panel on the PC case facing the wall. The PC+the cabinet it's sitting on moves to your left in the new desk position, stays on that cabinet/extension thing, except it's front facing now. This provides some shade cover for your monitor from the recessed window to the left (the one with the shoes), reducing glare. Better yet, measure your windows and go to HomeDepot/Lowes and buy some roll down shades or blinds.
  4. Couch eventually gets added with its back against the wall with the wine fridge, with that rug between the space between desk and couch.
  5. TV gets wall mounted on the slanted wall the desk is put against. Get a TV mount with tilt &/or get a low-sitting futon/laydown couch to achieve comfortable viewing angles.
  6. Get a pool table where the rug is sitting. If it won't fit, at least a foosball table.
u/Various_Pickles · 4 pointsr/todayilearned

You are both wrong.

Velcro zip ties FTW.

u/prms · 4 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I want to point out that you don't necessarily need a RCA out. A standard 1/8" is fine as you can use a 1/8" to rca cable. My previous setup was Fiio e10k as a DAC into Topping TP22 into those micca speakers.

u/scalablecory · 4 pointsr/HeadphoneAdvice

Properly powered, the 770-80 can deliver very deep, textured, powerful bass when the music calls for it. So, something is very wrong here :), but, it's an easy fix.

Low volume and poor bass response are the first indicators that headphones are being underpowered. You need an amp. Might I suggest a FiiO E10K? It has excellent quality and is cheap.

u/SpiteFireH20 · 4 pointsr/Twitch

The one I use is this. Amazon link so you can compare to your eBay ones. It doesn't necessarily say that it removes HDCP, but It's the one everyone recommends. The reviews do say that some didn't work, so it's usually a small chance you'll get an upgraded model that doesn't strip the HDCP.

u/fullmetaljackass · 4 pointsr/StallmanWasRight

PROTIP: Many cheap Chinese HDMI splitters strip HDCP. Its usually an unadvertised feature, so check the reviews to make sure it works. Here's one I've used before.

u/parkerlreed · 4 pointsr/archlinux

If it's new enough and it only has a single jack it's probably a TRRS plug, meaning headphones and mic on the same connector. Simple adapter has that covered. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SP0WAQ

I've personally never heard of retasking a normal TRS headphone only port.

u/floood · 4 pointsr/xboxone

can i use one of these to use with this headset with the adapter for chat and game sound?

u/M8asonmiller · 4 pointsr/Advice

There are literally thousands of products on Walmart's shelves. You can't really expect minimum wage employees to have intimate knowlege of everything in the store. More than likely he just wanted to get you moving.

And jeez, how much did you spend on the thing? Here's one for six dollars.

u/loldazey · 4 pointsr/xboxone

Exactly, really need to watch out for the splitters. Even though this is the Canadian link, this is basically the one I'm using. Hope this helps OP.

u/omeganon · 4 pointsr/xboxone

The port expects a 4 pin connector (combined headset and mic), but you have two 3-pin connectors. You need to combine them with something like this -

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-muyhsmff-adaptador-divisor-auriculares/dp/B004SP0WAQ

The Q&A says it works with the console.

u/blanketstatement · 4 pointsr/PS4

It will work with TRS/TRS to TRRS adapter like this one.

u/kill-dash-nine · 4 pointsr/homelab

So when I originally moved in to my house last year, I set things up in a very temporary setup that became more permanent than I was hoping. I also had to bring another box home from my office when we moved locations and we no longer had a dedicated internet connection so I couldn't expose anything directly to the internet.

I've been looking at setups from everyone for a while now, getting ideas of what I needed and I finally settled on the following:

u/JustinPA · 4 pointsr/buildapc

And for outside-the-box cable management I use Velco cable ties.

u/m1stertim · 4 pointsr/audioengineering

But you can get actual Velcro-brand cable ties for even cheaper...

u/bostonwhaler · 4 pointsr/savannah

PBS is the most difficult channel to get in the Savannah area. I sometimes will get it with my ghetto "rabbit ears ziptied to the roof" setup here in midtown. PBS is 32 miles away (vs. 16 or less for most others) which is out of the range of the Leaf.

Get yourself a TVFool report: www.tvfool.com

A good economy antenna is the RCA/Audiovox ANT751. If positioned properly (WNW), you should have no issues pulling in PBS.

http://www.amazon.com/RCA-ANT751-Durable-Compact-Outdoor/dp/B0024R4B5C

Edit - /u/thebassdude is the local DIY antenna guru as well. Give him a shout, and/or check out some of the "build your own antenna" tutorials online. You don't need much more than some old wire coat hangers and a scrap piece of wood.

u/cudenlynx · 4 pointsr/LifeProTips

If you want the best HD signal on ALL channels I would recommend http://smile.amazon.com/RCA-ANT751-Durable-Compact-Outdoor/dp/B0024R4B5C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417019675&sr=8-1&keywords=rca+ant751

The Rabbit Ear and other ones like the one mentioned by /u/barefootbandit8 are ok for getting a few channels to come in clear. However, you will find that you are constantly trying to adjust the antenna depending on what station you are watching.

By installing the RCA ANT751 in your attic, you will get more than 90% of your channels to come in crystal clear and you will never need to adjust your "rabbit ears". Take the time and money to install a long term solution. You and your family will be happy, trust me.

u/mariolovespeach · 4 pointsr/houston

I would try a better antenna. I have used this in my attic for over 5 years. Make sure to use a quality coax RG6 quad shielded cable (something like this). Use AntennaWeb to help you aim your antenna.

With this I've been able to pick up CBS in College Station from Katy

u/Tyler-Swift · 4 pointsr/grandrapids

Do you have issues with WXMI (FOX) and/or WOOD (NBC)? Those two are fairly close to the WWMT tower so it would be odd if you are experiencing problems with one but not the others. Check with http://tvfool.com and see if your antenna is pointed in the right direction, or something.

Joining two antennas could cause issues as the "static" from one might combine with the perfectly good signal from the other. They do make filters for this, but they are now hard to find in stock. For example Channel Master CM 0578 JOIN-TENNA. These will pass a certain channel from one antenna, ch 8 (which is ch 3.x, WWMT; Slightly confusing), and everthing else from another antenna.

I use a small yagi in my attic, but I'm not in a wooded area and have a good line of sight.

u/beezerhale · 4 pointsr/cordcutters

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0024R4B5C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I had great success with this antenna. My stations (all 28 available) are spread all around me. This antenna picked them all up, with the farthest away being GPB (PBS) 43 miles.

u/Reviews2Go · 4 pointsr/vita
  1. You need an HDMI Splitter that supports HDMI 1.3 to bypass the encryption. Like this

    https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Powered-Splitter-1080P-Model/dp/B004F9LVXC?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00

    2 - Nope. You can't stream the PSTV to the Vita.

    3 - Sorta. The PSTV's PS4 Link doesn't have the second screen option. It only uses Remote Play.
u/sleepy_roger · 4 pointsr/vita

Second one is what I have (or very similar I think they are all made by the same supplier) and it works perfectly, for the PS4 as well.

u/sjaskowiak · 4 pointsr/talesfromtechsupport

> AudioQuest

I really like their US$14,000 HDMI cable from amazon. :)

u/Sonicator · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Yes, and far more expensive ones as well

Thats just an example.

u/psycholis · 4 pointsr/audiophile

"A lot better "ones" and more "zeros" in this cable!

I especially like the "ones", they are more "one" than what you normally would see in other cables. Very cheap cables tend to run out of zeros after you have been using them for too loud audio or video with a lot of blue in them. Not this cable, it has an abundance of zeros in reserve. It will keep feeding those zeros to your TV or Receiver like it's no tomorrow!

Very good cable WITH FREE SHIPPING! "

Pretty much any review on this. Though I guess they may not be in the spirit of this thread as I doubt anyone would take this seriously.

u/cbartlett · 4 pointsr/CrappyDesign

The reviews are just how one might predict, lampooning:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8

u/Mecatronico · 4 pointsr/oculus

First, find the right cable... http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IL3TZSQ

u/TogShark · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Hey there! A few bits of advice from someone who's had M50x's for a while now.

  • The ear pads that they come with are uncomfortable after extended use. I suggest purchasing these.

  • If you haven't got one already, I highly recommend picking yourself up a DAC. Maybe this one.

  • They should have come with three cables. One straight short, one straight long and one coiled cable. Use the coiled cable, because it's extremely durable. You can't accidentally tug it at an awkward angle and potentially damage something because it's like a damn spring.

  • You can also purchase additional cables, even braided ones if that's your preference.

  • Don't be a scrub and carry it around in the leather bag it comes with. Buy a hard case.
u/Starionn · 4 pointsr/headphones

Do you have problems with any other headphones?

I haven't used the M40X's myself, but "headphones not getting loud enough" is generally one of the few, reliable, markers that you would benefit from upgrading to an amp.

The JDS Labs Atom is pretty much the gold standard for cost/performance at $100. You would probably want a dac too, or at least someway of switching from speakers to the amp without having to reach around your computer to the back to swap.

The FiiO E10K works pretty well, and is a dac/amp combo at $75 if you want an affordable all-in-one.

u/UKFAN3108 · 4 pointsr/headphones

I have a modest mid/hi fi collection going with my Shiit stack, THX-00, HD6xx, and HD598 (used with a mod mic as a headset for gaming). I told myself I was at my end game for a few years as I had a nice variation, but couldn't pass on a planar headphone for 300. The M1060 should be a nice addition to my collection.

The M1060 has a 50ohm impedance, so it isn't entirely possible that these don't need a robust DAC/AMP to drive them, but I'm sure a modest DAC/AMP would improve the sound quality of the headphones over your Macbook. I sometimes use my Macbook to drive my 6XX's (300ohm impedance) at work and it does alright, but the 6XX's do sound a bit better on my home setup.

I think a $100-200 investment in a DAC/AMP is worth while for a $300 headphone. Fiio E10k or the Shiit Fulla 2 would be good entry level options in the 100 or less catagory with numerous options in the 100-200 catagory. I'm sure you can get another 100 recommendations on other DAC/AMP combos, but I do feel you will notice an improvement over any phone or laptop.

u/Tardsmat · 4 pointsr/oblivion

That is static noise from your PC. It happens because you propably have an onboard sound card. Your other PC parts interfere with it and disrupt your sound. The only way to fix this is to get an external sound card. Something like this. I had the same Problem after i got New speakers.

u/rchawk0 · 4 pointsr/Guitar

These are earpads i use for my m50x's they are really comfortable.
Brainwavz Replacement Memory Foam Earpads - Suitable For Many Other Large Over The Ear Headphones - AKG, HifiMan, ATH, Philips, Fostex (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MFDT894/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9vnCCbC56HZ82

u/frogspa · 4 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

The FiiO Taishan is a good cheap DAC.

You could even power it from your TV, if it has a USB socket.

u/billgarmsarmy · 4 pointsr/E_Cigarette

>So far i am very dissatisfied with the iclear 30 tanks that come with it, they leak, gurgle, don't produce very much vapor, and also have an insanely tight draw. Compared to my previous $20 dollar vape pen, this is absolute hell. Could someone recommend me a good tank that supports replaceable atomizers?

yeah the iclear 30 isn't great. look in to: aspire nautilus, kanger protank 2 or 3/mini protank 2 or 3, kanger aero tank, etc

>Also i was wondering how to take good care of the battery, i hear a lot about them exploding, don't want any of that to happen. I got myself an ultrafire charger so that i don't overcharge the battery. What else should i do to keep it safe? besides switching to a better one as my current one is a cheap $7 one.

not a ton to worry about here since you're using a regulated device. your svd will not fire any shorted coils. it will not fire coils that are below or above the regulated limit, and it will not discharge your battery below like 3.2 volts. all of that means you could use inexpensive, low drain batteries to maximize your battery life. personally, when the svd and its ilk were my daily drivers i used the samsung 26f ICR cells. they're 2600 mah and like $4 a piece. super cheap, long life.

also, that trustfire charger is garbage. upgrade to something better soon. personally, i use the nitecore intellicharger, but there are a lot of decent and relatively inexpensive chargers out there. the intellicharger i2 is ~$12 on amazon or ~$13 at illumination supply (great source for batteries too, use coupon code ISPOWER for, iirc, 10% off).

>And for the last question, what is the resistance of an atomizer, and what does it mean? is higher or lower better? all that kinda stuff please.

basically lower resistance means coils get hotter faster. this is fine if you have adequate airflow and good wicking. but can be a problem if those things are lacking. personally, i liked 1.8-2.2 ohms when i ran the SVD. but that's personal preference. you should play around with different resistances and settings on your SVD to see what you like. i suggest starting at like 5w and then slowly going up until you find your sweet spot of flavor/vapor.

here's a reddit thread that might help you.

hope this helps.

u/Militancy · 4 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Are you a flashlight geek? Are you cheap, want to test the waters, and just happen to have some 18650 batteries around? Are you a tinker-er or would you just like your first set-up to have replaceable batteries so you only have to buy one device?

The cheapest way to get into this is with the $20 (often on sale for $12) [Plastic Bolt]
(http://www.madvapes.com/plastic-bolt-black.html). Be warned, it IS cheap. Expect it to last about a month before the hot melt "potting" breaks loose from the 510 connector and gets wobbly. It will still function. Mine lasted about 3 months before I turned it into a passthrough (uses a PC Power Supply instead of a battery. If you know a bit about electrons, once you pop open the case of this device it should be immediately obvious how you need to wire it to the 5V rail). If you want something more permanent look at this guy $43 or this guy ($38). They're not that much more expensive and are good solid performers. I don't care anything about the safety fuse, but hey, it comes with it, so you might as well.

Now You'll need some batteries and a charger. I highly recommend getting IMR chemistry batteries. ICR chemistry batteries tend to fail spectacularly, while an IMR just vents. These failures are rare, but can be caused by drawing too much amperage off the battery, either intentionally (you made a coil with too little resistance for your battery) or unintentionally (coil shorted, device shorted, etc.) and sustaining that load (leaving the button pushed in your backpack, hard short in the device that you left on the other side of the room). Again, these failures are RARE, and often caused by negligence. But you're a geeky type, so you know better. If all your batteries are ICRs or you don't have any, the best price per performance is this guy ($8) or this guy ($11) These are great batteries and, should you decide you really like this stuff and want to blow fat clouds, they will carry you into sub-ohm rebuildables. Check your battery voltage often (you do have a multimeter, right?). I recharge at around 3.7V, but you can take it down to 3.3 safely, below that voltage drops fast and you'll (permanently) kill the battery below 2.5V or so. Once you get used to it, you'll feel the vapor output and throat hit drop off and know it's time to recharge.

If you don't have a charger already, I have the $30 EFEST LUC (no serious complaints) but this $18 Nitecore i2 comes highly recommended by many users.

Now, we are trying to keep with the cheap thing, and there is no better way to get good flavor, throat hit, and vapor on the cheap than a dripping atomizer. Being able to change flavors rapidly is just a nice bonus (you're new, you'll probably want to try all the things). You want low resistance (1.4-2.0) ohms since you're running off battery voltage. P=V^2 /R power is directly related to vapor/flavor output. A good starting point is 8-10W, so about 1.8ohms or 1.5ohms (respectively). This guy ($6) and this guy($6) are often praised as a being high quality, but still cheap. or you can jump straight into rebuildable drippers like this little guy ($8). It comes prewicked and should last as long as the disposables listed above, but once it dies, you just recoil and rewick instead of throwing it away (I'll leave this as an exercise for the user, but let me just say that you can buy a couple lifetimes worth of resistance wire for $10 and a couple lifetimes worth of cotton wick for $5) Remember when i said those batteries will take you all the way up into sub-ohm rebuildables? So will this atomizer. When you're ready just recoil to a lower resistance. Aint that handy?

If dripping sounds like too much of a hassle then the $10 Iclear 30 sounds right for you. I haven't used it, personally, but people will not shut up about how much they love this thing.

Now the juice is a whole 'nother world and it's really hard to make recomendations. If you can I HIGHLY reccomend going in to a brick and mortar E-Cig store and sampling flavors. Buy from them. Yes it's more expensive, but you probably spent an hour trying stuff out and it'd be pretty shitty to walk out and buy it from the internet. If you don't have a brick and mortar then go to these places and order what sounds tasty in the smallest bottles they have. You'll find that what you think you'd like doesn't always correlate to what you actually like. here's a few that I like:

http://thevaporchef.com/collections/frontpage/products/slartibartfast

http://thevaporchef.com/products/honey-pearry

http://www.mtbakervapor.com/nicotine-juice/thug-juice-e-juice-baker-vapor/

http://www.mountainoakvapors.com/product-p/mo-dt-1019.htm

These set ups should have you outperforming the typical ego and cigalike set ups for not much more money and leave you a lot of head room for future growth. They're also cheap enough that if you decide you hate vaping (inconceivable!) that you're not out much and can probably sell it to someone looking to upgrade. Good luck and happy tinkering.

u/sinembarg0 · 4 pointsr/functionalprint

maybe try getting a simpler harmony remote? https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Harmony-Control-Smartphone-Simple/dp/B00BQ5RYI4/

I recently got that one for my mom. it has no screen and looks like just another remote. maybe that'd help your wife get over her dislike since it doesn't look nearly as complicated as a 950.

Also, as another fix, you could just set the activity so the power button for the cable box is on the screen, or is one of the buttons on the remote that you don't need for something else. Then you just go to that activity, and if the power state is wrong, it's a single button press to fix.

u/IamTheJman · 4 pointsr/homeautomation

The Logitech Harmony remote and hub are back down to $70. It was this price last week.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQ5RYI4?psc=1

u/matthewdavis · 4 pointsr/PleX

I was a longtime Harmony One user. And I decided to try the cheaper Logitech Harmony Smart Control (after the One finally kicked the bucket). And I love it. Give it a look and see if itll suite your needs.

Edit: link

u/vprviper · 4 pointsr/CCW

I guess I shouldn't have let my mind go in that direction. There is also this HDMI cable on amazon priced to sell at $13,499.75 to consider: https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1472771011&sr=8-2&keywords=diamond+hdmi+cable

u/High_Life_Pony · 4 pointsr/Cooking

If you are a new cook, I really recommend The Food Lab. Sure, it has recipes, but it also tells you how things work and why instead of just “cook at 350 for 1 hour.”

The intro section has a great starter guide for tools and equipment as well. Basically, here’s a tool that you absolutely need. Cheap version, pros and cons, then high end version. Or here’s a tool that’s really handy if you like to whatever a lot, but if you aren’t cooking that much, you can get by without it.

Highly recommended. I bought most of my tools from these recommendations, and they’ve been great!

u/tiglathpilesar · 4 pointsr/Wetshaving

I put down 1491, not because I wasn't enjoying it, but because my BFF gave me The Food Lab as an early birthday present. I didn't think you could write a food book that reads like a novel, but I've been swept up in it since last Saturday. Anybody else read this?

u/colemth · 4 pointsr/sousvide

The Food Lab by Kenji Alt-Lopez is a must own cookbook in general

u/Skodbil · 4 pointsr/Denmark

Nå folkens, der er snart gået et år siden Skodbil sidst mæskede sig i fødselsdagskage, og det betyder at successen skal gentages. Fødselsdagsgaver er for lang tid siden gået fra at være Lego og våben, til at være sokker og bøger.

Derfor skal der nu nogle gode kogebøger på listen. Jeg er ikke så meget på udkig efter opskriftsbøger, men mere ude i at ville have kogebøger som jeg rent faktisk kan lære noget af. Jeg har allerede følgende på listen, men hvis DU kender en helt vildt god bog jeg bør læse, så sig til.

Sølvskeen

The Food Lab, Kenji Lopez

Chocolate at Home

Paul Bocuse Institut Gastronomique

The Professional Chef

The Flavour Bible

Mastering Cheese

Der er med vilje ingen vinbøger på listen, for det gør jeg mig ikke specielt meget i - endnu.

u/t3chn0v1k1ng · 4 pointsr/PS3

use the deafult old school playstation out. take those red and white RCA cabes and run them into an Adapter don't worry about the yellow video one, just leave it out.

then plug your computer speakers into that adapter.
in Audio Settings you can chose to make the audio come out of the RCA connection and the video through hdmi.

I did this when I only had a computer monitor, works great. also allows for headphones.

u/vsod99 · 4 pointsr/pcgaming

You should probably be fine with your motherboard's built in audio, but if you're looking to get a little clearer low ends, this is a pretty good one for the price. Alternatively, you could purchase a DAC, which would function as an external sound card, and many have built in amplification as well.

u/darkdoppelganger · 4 pointsr/livesound

A distribution amp is definitely the way to go - if you want to stay economical, you probably need something like this.

u/frogsandstuff · 4 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Nitecore Intellicharger @ Amazon

It's possible that your charger isn't working properly, but it's also possible that it has been overcharging your batteries and has thus killed the battery life. Use your multimeter to be sure.

u/meowmix4jo · 4 pointsr/ecigclassifieds

Just buy it new, that's what they cost.

http://www.amazon.com/Version-NITECORE-i4-Intellicharge-Charger/dp/B005UAI372

Most of the stuff on this post is same/more than new actually.

u/machipu · 4 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

I wouldn't consider that a beginner device, you could consider getting the Katana kit from Vape Dojo, or an eGo kit from Discount Vapers or Steam Monkey while you're learning the ropes. I'll try to provide an explanation, regardless.

What you will need for your mod are batteries, a multimeter to check them, and a topper / clearomizer.

Batteries: MNKE, or Panasonic. You can get smaller/shorter ones as well, I just prefer the big ones so you can go longer without a recharge.

You don't want to store these at full charge for too long, probably not longer than a week at most, and you won't want to drain them. A drop of about 1 volt is probably the max. This may vary, some people drain them a lot lower but I believe it's safest not to do so.

Charger: Here is what I use. I hear Pila also makes good chargers, maybe shop around.

Clearomizer: Kanger Evod or Protank II are both good. The Protank II is glass and can be fully disassembled, the Evod is plastic and has just two or three pieces. You can pick up replacement heads at Discount Vapers or just about any e-cig vendor.

Let me know if you have any questions, there's a lot to take in.

u/philoneous · 4 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

If you don't get the CCA, would a cheap TOSLINK DAC work? Something like

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009346RSS

for $20?

u/TimeTomorrow · 4 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Imho, a DAC is the least of your worries at this price point. Use your onboard DAC and spend the money on speakers and amplification.

If you aren't satisfied, add the dac later when more funds become available.

$200 for amplified 2.0 IDM setup is still kinda tight, but it's a lot more to work with than if you spend half to a third of that budget on a dac.


How are you on space?

https://www.guitarcenter.com/Used/JBL/LSR305-Pair-Powered-Monitor-114697963.gc

alternatively you could get a starter dac if your pc output is terrible.

https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1538513731&sr=8-9&keywords=fiio+dac


I've personally used this dac and found it quite acceptable with a nice system costing about 5 times what you are looking at. Truth be told, I'm now using a minidsp 2x4 hd and i doubt I could apples to apples tell the difference on just the dac functionality.



u/painess · 4 pointsr/audiophile

I bought one of these for the same purpose. There are some cheaper ones but I went with this one because I know the brand. It sounds great to me.

u/giggly_kisses · 4 pointsr/battlestations

Here are the parts I used:

  • cable raceway
  • cable clips
  • indoor mounting squares
  • velcro cable ties

    The cable raceway and the cable clips made the biggest difference. In the past I would just use the velcro strips, which would help with making the cables look more clean, but not with hiding them altogether.

    The process I used was:

  • unplug everything from your computer and lay them over your desk in straight lines so you can see all the cables you'll need to route.
  • find a good spot for the raceway leaving enough room for a power strip to sit behind it. I had to cut the raceway to fit my desk. Once it's sized correctly, stick it to the bottom of your desk.
  • Route a single wire at a time. I started with the wires coming from my monitor first since they were the furthest away from my tower. I also did the power cables last since they were the biggest and weren't being routed to the tower.
  • Once everything is routed in the raceway then start using the cable clips to make sure the cables follow the path cleanly.
  • Use the velcro strips to keep hanging wires together.
u/CaptainMoustache · 4 pointsr/buildapcsales
u/KansasMike · 4 pointsr/homelab

I would run all cabled directly off to either the left or right side, bundle them and then run them over the top and down the other side.

Consider getting an arm or something else to avoid messing the whole thing up when you pull out the server on the rails. You can kind of wing it without one though.

Velcro strips comes in real handy for cable management. Having 100 of those hanging off the sides makes it really easy to gather up the cables and redo them when adding equipment. They don't look quite as nice as plastic strips, but it is just so much more enjoyable to work with for projects like this.

https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Black-2-Inch-91140/dp/B001E1Y5O6
Similar ones can be bought on AliExpress for peanuts if you can wait a month.

From the looks of it pulling the server out on the rails will disconnect the power cords. I would mount an extension socket next to it with an on/off switch that lights up.

u/WgXcQ · 4 pointsr/DIY

I'd probably affix some of those velcro cable-ties or similar to the back of the box to clean up the dangling cables some more. You can then still open the ties to move your consoles and cables around, but there'll be no more risk of pulling on any cables by accident when carrying something past or so. Plus, bonus, it looks cleaner.

u/DadAtH_me · 4 pointsr/homelab

Amazon boxes and velcro cable ties.

Everything started out in one box and about once every 3 months it mitoses into new, smaller boxes.

Right now I have: USB cables. If it has a USB port on any end, it goes into the USB box.

Wall Warts: Everything gets labeled with a label maker the voltage and current so I don't have to read every single one

Video: DVI, VGA, HDMI, DP.

"Other:"

And then shelves. Shelves upon shelves.

u/footofchaos · 4 pointsr/buildapc

Came here to recommend velcro cable ties as well. I bought this 100 pack from Amazon for $6.99. I have enough to last through Armageddon. Very handy.

u/therankin · 4 pointsr/HomeServer

Cable management to start.

You need to set yourself ample time and be in a focused mood to do it.

Basically, you sit down one Saturday (or other day off), and unplug EVERYTHING.

Line up all of the equipment the way you want to so it looks nice and neat, and then run the wiring. (optional but helpful: label the wires)

I use these a lot at work: https://smile.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Reusable-Fastening-Organizing/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ you can also buy one long roll of velcro so you can cut to size, I like that better at home.

To address the flipping over because of cables, you have to contort the cables. Bend them in the opposite direction they want to bend, not too hard but firm, and they'll end up wanting to stay straight.

Pro-tip: If you hang a group of cables over a hook and cable tie them together at the bottom, near the RJ-45 tips; leave them there for a week or so, you end up with really straight cables. (I got this trick from my former boss).

​

Edit: for me, if I had a wire rack I would make it look more pleasant by putting a wooden board, or even poster board on top of the metal wire so you couldn't see through it. That may just be a personal preference though.

Edit 2: Thank you kind internet stranger for the silver!

u/davros_ · 4 pointsr/DIY

Anyone who wants to improve their cable management skills needs to get these fuckers. I don't know how I lived without them: http://www.amazon.com/Velcro-Reusable-Self-Gripping-Inches-91140/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376163559&sr=8-1&keywords=velcro+cable+ties

No more snipping 20 cable ties when I want to move something. They're just as strong as zipties but you can reuse them as many times as you want.

u/xiaodown · 4 pointsr/cableporn

> Also velcro is quite expensive

It's really not.

u/knotquiteawake · 4 pointsr/organization

First, use these: https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Reusable-Fastening-Organizing/dp/B001E1Y5O6

​

Second: put like cables in ziplock bags. Either quart or gallon depending on how many you have. Then label those bags and put them in a box like you have been.

​

I have literally used hundred of those cable ties though. Use those for sure.

u/S3DTinyTurnips · 4 pointsr/Marvel

Post a follow up! I won't be able to sleep knowing this is out there!

Edit: Don't use zip ties, get Velcro ties.

amazon link

u/cafebandito · 4 pointsr/malelivingspace

I just moved into a new place, so I've had the opportunity to upgrade a lot of my stuff.

Here's my list (sorted by value it provides to me)

  • Velcro Ties - These are amazing for cable management and keeping things neat. Best purchase for under $10 I've made probably in my life.
  • LED Edison Bulbs - I just discovered that these exist and they provide WAY less heat than standard bulbs, even the LEDs I had before. They're great for my small apartment that likes to get hot from light.
  • Dish Rack - Unfortunately the new place doesn't have a dishwasher, but with this dish rack I can clear off some counter space normally dedicated to a standard size dish rack. It is a bit smaller, which is kind of a bummer, but it will encourage me to put the dishes away after they're dried.
  • Cutting board with cutting mats - Nice because you don't have to wash off the entire board if you cut on it. My old wooden one started to smell after using it for a bit, even with cleaning every time and using mineral oil. It's also nice for getting chopped foods over to a pot/pan.
  • Headphone stand - Not much practicality here at all, but it makes my desk look much cleaner than having the headphones just tossed on top.
u/Gahd · 3 pointsr/homelab

https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Black-2-Inch-91140/dp/B001E1Y5O6/

These last forever for $10. You can cut them shorter for small bunches of cables or keep them long, but they are great for keeping tiny bunches in line and reusable when you make changes. I've found the easiest way to add cables is to use a new zip tie next to the old then remove the old and go down the line.

(EDIT: Also, it looks great.)

u/shitmyfriendsaid · 3 pointsr/LifeProTips

Or buy 100 of these for $6

u/SpectralCoding · 3 pointsr/sysadmin

Basically what /u/cstoner said. If you absolutely can't take downtime then setting up redundant paths are the only way.

Our blade chassis have ethernet fiber, storage fiber, a few copper connections, and power. They're all redundant. Being able to fix that mess while being careful isn't too hard as long as you only ever have one thing unplugged at a time. Messy power cables? Unplug one, reroute it, plug it back in, wait a few seconds, move to the next one.

For actual cable management tips, I would strongly recommend something like THIS. They're velcro cable ties that function pretty much like reusable zip ties. You can pull them pretty tight.

I would also recommend /r/cableporn .

u/johndelfino · 3 pointsr/aww

That's what I was thinking of -- velcro cable ties, like these.

u/SlicktopE36 · 3 pointsr/battlestations

since no one is giving suggestions on how to cable manage, ill help out.

use velcro straps to help run the cables along the posts going up the desk and entertainment center

https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Reusable-Fastening-Organizing/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=sr_1_8?crid=2CELM9CIVWUT3&keywords=velcro+straps&qid=1557866180&s=gateway&sprefix=velvro+str%2Caps%2C429&sr=8-8

​

use cable boxes for hiding power strips and excess cables

https://www.amazon.com/Management-Organizer-Storage-Holder-Computer/dp/B07PP113P2/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=cable+management+box&qid=1557866240&s=gateway&sr=8-12

​

if you dont want to use the boxes and have them sit on the floor, you could mount the power strip under your desk using 3m adhesive tape.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-VHB-5952-Automotive-Industrial/dp/B00MAQBPEM/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=3m+adhesive+tape&qid=1557866532&s=gateway&sr=8-5

​

use these raceways for routing cables up walls, and for the power strip cables that need to go from the wall plug to the power strip

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Concealer-Wall-Cover-Raceway/dp/B01JKO8724/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1VQ606JNF5W8J&keywords=cable+routing+sleeve&qid=1557866311&s=gateway&sprefix=cable+routin%2Caps%2C189&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

​

and use these raceways to run the cables under the desk to your peripherals. cut them as needed to fit, or just make sure to leave gaps for the cables to leave the raceway and not sag

https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Cable-Raceway-Management-Organizer/dp/B07B7KZ6QT/ref=sxin_3_ac_d_pm?crid=54G3BYAXU7AX&keywords=cable+raceway&pd_rd_i=B07B7KZ6QT&pd_rd_r=f21b5fae-9634-46fd-bd83-8c57b0d1a260&pd_rd_w=XEKi3&pd_rd_wg=EqTrq&pf_rd_p=5cc8abfe-8f78-4f34-b19f-d09d6ea0dca4&pf_rd_r=7K5F6REG3RC66ENZ8QG6&qid=1557866693&s=gateway&sprefix=cable+race%2Caps%2C192

u/Orchestral_Design · 3 pointsr/cableadvice

Here is a brief step by step on how to somewhat tame this birds nest of spaghetti.


  1. Unplug everything and start with the power, go from the wall outlet, then to the power strips. Use these to make things look cleaner. Its also a key time to re-organize where you put stuff, as it will ultimately determine your wire management and routing. If it has a bulky power brick, you might want to get this to help with the wall warts.

  2. Now for the audio and video cables your AV switcher is where a lot of them come from so more cable management is good. (pro tip, label the HDMI so you know where its going) I find that cable clips are great for making sure everything stays nice and neat. Velcro Zip Ties are a wonderful thing to have, and you could probably just get by with buying those and nothing else. But if you have slack on a cable, wrap that up like a breakfast burrito.

  3. Networking comes next, and boy howdy it looks like you have a lot. Apply the same technique previously used of unplugging cables (label them prior if you want to make your life easier) and using a cable bundler to make it look clean. In addition, you can probably put some of the routers behind the entertainment center with all the new space you are getting by organizing the other cables.

    Some other things I would say is, put your UPS outside of the entertainment center, those things take up a ton of space and are heavy. If you ever need to unplug something or change the battery it will be very inconvenient. I would place it right next to the entertainment center or behind it. Also consider using double sided 3M foam tape to mount your switch upside down underneath a shelf, that way it frees up some space. Aside from that, theres not much else that I can see being done. I hope this helps. You are contractually obligated by reddit to post the before and after if you decide to tackle this. (not really, but I would love to see the results!)
u/playerIII · 3 pointsr/MonsterHunter

Rockin set up my man, but do yourself a favor and grab some of these bad boys and tiddy up those cables for maximum style.

u/MollyPopGirl · 3 pointsr/battlestations

It's amazing how big a difference frames can make.

I assume that the reason you moved the tower to face that away is so that you can see the glass window? Totally get that. Moved my set up all around because I wanted to enjoy looking at it. But maybe you could move it to the same position you had in the first photos but maybe further to the left of your desk? Basically switching it with the PS4's location. I think that will help hide some of those cables and give the desk a cleaner look.

Or if you really have your heart set on that tower positioning, I think some velcro straps would be a great start and compressing the cables. Or something like these could help get cables off the floor and under the desk and help run them in a tidier fashion.

You've definitely been making some improvements! Keep up the great work!

u/fergusonbt · 3 pointsr/battlestations

Command Strips
These only cost me $4 at Walmart

Cable Ties
100 for $6

You are correct, the rack is from Ikea.

These are the fridge clips used for the headphone wires. I found that the adhesive strips they provided were too weak and kept falling off though. I purchased these, which are also cheaper at Walmart, and used them instead.

u/KillAllTheThings · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I guess it depends on what kind of velcro you can get. I have some cable tie velcro that is thinner than a zip tie (obviously not real velcro). If rolling up the 6+ inch long tail is too bulky, the tie could be cut to a more appropriate length.

I also have some fuzzy velcro ties that are maybe 2 zip ties or more thick. Those are best used on big bundles outside the PC case.

EDIT: I found a link. They actually are Velcro^TM wraps.

u/IanPPK · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Velcro One Wrap and a cable tunnel will help you plenty. If you want to go a little overkill, a surge protector enclosure will help keep the electronics without a converter brick a little more organized. The former two things should do more than enough if you organize it well.

u/SCMSuperSterling · 3 pointsr/guitarpedals

I actually use a combo of zip tie mounts, zip ties, and these velcro cable ties.

i put the zip tie into the mount, zip it down tight, and then feed the velcro tie through. secure, easy to use, and clean cables.

u/JiffSmoothest · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I'm not Op but I got you homey.

I see a few different products being used, especially on the underside of the desk. My links may not be the exact same products but they're functionally the same

1

2

And 3

u/laika404 · 3 pointsr/malelivingspace

> I don't want to zip tie everything down

Never zip tie cables down. Ever.

Use Velcro cable ties. They are much better.

u/link97381 · 3 pointsr/CableManagement

Use a combination of velcro cable ties and adhesive backed cable raceway. You might be able to mount your modem and router to the wall and might be able to find shorter power and and cat 6e cables if needed.

u/n_nick · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Caved and bought 200 of these. They were $5 a pack at the time but have been so useful for both inside and outside my pc.

u/Thebush121 · 3 pointsr/Multicopter

Available at amazon as well, 100 for a little over $6. I typically use 2, one over each side of the battery.

https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Black-2-Inch-91140/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1480944790&sr=8-3&keywords=velcro+strap

u/Freonr2 · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

http://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Cable-Ties-100-Pack-Black/dp/B002C0SKBW

$1.99 and free shipping. Maybe $0.34 more than OP's pricing, but they're also charging several dollars to ship. You'd have to order some serious bulk to make up for OP's shipping costs.

http://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-ONE-WRAP-Self-Gripping-Cable-Reusable/dp/B001E1Y5O6/
Velcro ties 100ct for $5.99 and free shipping if you have Prime.

These are just the first two products I searched for. You may find even better options.

Lowes.com also has 100ct ties for $5-10 range. If you want just one bag and your local Lowe's is on the way for your daily commute it still may be cheaper. One 100ct bag of the standard plastic ties will last you a long time even if you're constantly reorganizing, cutting and tossing them.

The standard cheapo plastic ones are even reusable if you push small (electronics size) flat blade in the back of the clasp, so a single 20ct bag could last you indefinitely.

u/EverMoar · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Amen. Combined with these bad boys there is no cable mess you can't manage. Extra points for the Ikea swinging lamp. It has crushed my fingers many times, but it's been hella' faithful and durable through all these years and several moves.

u/driverdan · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales
u/MatsudaFalls · 3 pointsr/gaming

Amazon has Velcro ties that are very useful for cable management and are like 5 bucks. cable ties

u/Curtofthehorde · 3 pointsr/Langamers

A switch and some cheap color coded cables! Made network setup a breeze.

Folding tables/chairs make setup and breakdown easy. Set up an extra for snacks/drinks.

Put a small cheap waste basket at each table to keep tables clean and clear.

Velcro Strips keep cables tidy at the lan or the battlestation as well as keeping them from tangling in your bag.

u/merkin_juice · 3 pointsr/LifeProTips

VELCRO Brand One Wrap Thin Ties, Black, 8 x 1/2-Inch, 100 Count (91140) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VxjVzbRB60QZV

u/TortTortTheWaterWart · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Do yourself a favor and get these instead:

VELCRO Brand One Wrap Thin Ties | Strong & Reusable | Perfect for Fastening Wires & Organizing Cords | Black, 8 x 1/2-Inch | 100 Count https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sXRUDbBV5ANWG

u/KJ159 · 3 pointsr/RingFitAdventure

I wrap it around with one (or two!) of those mini velco straps. Earlier I used the joycon leg strap... which might sound counterproductive but basically I would use it while collecting points/watching tv (aka the game is turned off so I'm just doing reps with the ring-con) (if I'm playing the game, the rattle doesn't matter cause I'm already making too much noise with huffing, puffing, and stomping)

Anyway velcro seems like a cheap wrap-around, hope this helps! (let me know if you find something better/cheaper tho)

As a side note, my brother's joycons are really snug while mine are not... But mine have no visible wear/tear and I'm assuming some joycons are just like that. Maybe mine was made with less plastic on the rail part or something...

u/solosier · 3 pointsr/cableporn

I like it. My homelab rack looks similar.

I just cringe when it comes to zip ties. Buy a couple packs of these for home and work use, imho

https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Reusable-Fastening-Organizing/dp/B001E1Y5O6

​

​

u/Ironmike11B · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

It will easily. These are the ones I use. Never had one come loose or break and I use them all around the house.

u/xCASINOx · 3 pointsr/cableporn

I bought these

velcro cable ties

u/savanik · 3 pointsr/LifeProTips

Never, ever, EVER use tape to bind cords together, especially duct tape. Tape leaves a residue that is an absolute MAGNET for dust, dirt and grime. It's also hell to take off the cable later when you need to rearrange things.

Bread ties have metal wires in them that may not be the best choice for binding wires that carry current together. They also induce induction in the wire, which degrades signal strength.

For ease of use, nothing beats velcro. Pick up a roll of velcro for (under $4)[http://www.amazon.com/Cblwhl-Velcro-Cable-Tie-Roll/dp/B000I97FJ2] and then use it to bind cords together. Fast, reusable, and easy. You will have to use a pair of scissors to cut each one to length.

If you spend a touch more money (slightly over $4) you can get more colors than just black. Use this for color-coding your cables by type or by system in areas you have a TON of cables running through.

If you want to make it even easier, you can spend more (per cable) and get (these things)[http://www.amazon.com/Velcro-Reusable-Self-Gripping-Inches-91140/dp/B001E1Y5O6]. Now you won't have to use scissors, as they're pre-cut. Also, see the hole on the other end? Wrap this guy around one cable, and stick the end through the hole before snugging tight, then wrap the whole thing around your bundle. Now, when you unwrap the cables later, the velcro strip will stay attached to that single cable in the back.

u/benjymous · 3 pointsr/3DS

Going off on a tangent, my solution to cable tangle misery is Velcro ties (like the ones that usually come on laptop chargers) :
http://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-ONE-WRAP-Self-Gripping-Reusable/dp/B001E1Y5O6
Keeps all of your cables neatly bundled when in your bag, and you can get coloured ones to make it easier to grab the right cable.

u/NESninja · 3 pointsr/humor

I bought this. 10 cents apiece (or less on sale) and I never have a tangled wire. Mine are all perfect. I also separate by USB/data, power, video, etc. I have a problem.

u/Zeiban · 3 pointsr/oculus

I ended up putting my PC in the corner with the middle sensor and purchased 3 10ft USB 3.0 extensions and a 10ft HDMI extension.

If curious, here is what I got.

2x USB 3.0 extensions for 2 of the 3 sensors.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1x USB 3.0 extension for HMD

https://www.amazon.com/gp/css/order-history?ie=UTF8&ref_=nav_nav_orders_first&

1x HDMI extension for HMD (2 pack but I only used 1 of them)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used these every foot of the USB/HDMI cables for the HMD to bind them together.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1Y5O6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/GiveUsOurSynths · 3 pointsr/synthesizers

+1 on the velcro. These are what I use, I highly recommend them.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001E1Y5O6

u/Chimeros · 3 pointsr/Vive

I've been using a sleeve for cables that does a great job preventing this. It won't stop it forever, but it takes way more to get it tight and tangled. I can usually go through a play session of several hours without it bunching up on itself, then I just untangle what little bit is there when I'm done. This is the sleeve, and I secure it to the cables with these. It works beautifully.

u/JoshNaDell · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Mount a rack¹ or something to the back of your desk where it'll be out of sight. Buy some velcro cable ties² (zip ties are potentially a bad choice³). Route the cables to your liking and hold them in place with those cable ties.

It might be a good idea to search up 'cable management' and look at all the different options you can work with.⁴

¹ (http://m.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/art/30200253/) if you have enough room (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00006MJFL?cache=4724d4b63e5efee7bb792e11f53461a1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1404394670&sr=8-5#)

² (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001E1Y5O6?pc_redir=1404305963&robot_redir=1)

³ Zip ties are a bad choice because if you need to undo the bundle you could accidentally cut into your cables and ruin your hardware

⁴ (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0019T0JA2?cache=4724d4b63e5efee7bb792e11f53461a1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1404394772&sr=8-10#ref=mp_s_a_1_10)

(http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004GUS4XK?cache=4724d4b63e5efee7bb792e11f53461a1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1404394772&sr=8-4#ref=mp_s_a_1_4)

u/nextstep0318 · 3 pointsr/onebag

I bought my bag (Setout) specifically because you can take off the hip and sternum straps. For other straps and things that can hang off of my bag I will occasionally cinch them down using velcro ties. They are kind of like plastic zip ties but you can re-use them.

u/alexatwork21 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I just re-did all of the external cable management on my setup, and after cutting about 20 zip ties, decided that I needed a better solution. I found these, and they're glorious:

velcro-loops!

u/smonty · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Nice set up!

I personally use Velcro to manage everything, both in personal and professional set ups I do. And a lot of them. Just clump everything together and Velcro them together. Prefer it over zip ties as they allow people to adjust things easier. Make use of the monitor stands if they have pass through for cables also.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001E1Y5O6/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1500734274&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=cable+ties&dpPl=1&dpID=41sJ%2BD8YooL&ref=plSrch

u/M_A_Draco · 3 pointsr/battlestations

Just undid five years worth of accumulated mess. Saw the beautiful workstations on this channel, and just couldn't take the cognitive dissonance anymore.

The before-and-after pics are available here: https://imgur.com/a/cjznWXZ

Installed a raceway and new power strips under the desk. The project took about four hours or so.

This channel had tons of great product and technique suggestions, and this YouTube video was also extremely helpful: https://youtu.be/Uc01oUqmxhE

Here's what I ended up using:

u/rarely_coherent · 3 pointsr/videos
u/Lukeyy19 · 3 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

Only $200? That's a bargain.

u/Animate_XOR · 3 pointsr/bestof

Companies will advertise that their HDMI cables produce a "Clearer Picture" and such when that is physically not possible, as the signal is digital and not easily degraded by noise. (Seriously you would probably have to run the thing through a microwave, and even you have more things to worry about, like it catching on fire)

They also charge, $50, $100, and in one hilarious case $10,000 for cables that will fare no better than a $2 cable off monoprice.

The $10k one if you're curious: http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ

u/erix84 · 3 pointsr/geek

Are you insinuating that I may have overspent when I bought my $14000 HDMI cable?

u/paganisrock · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/22travis · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Here's a $13,499.75 HDMI cable

u/xmagusx · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

> FiiO E10K

Not saying it's not, but why would you say it's worth 15 bucks more than this one?

https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2

u/njules · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I don't know much about DACs but I have seen this one and this one recommended multiple times.

They are a bit pricey compared the one you sent though. And the second one can't work on your motherboard since the mobo doesn't have an s/pdif output.

u/undead_drop_bear · 3 pointsr/Games

>I never spring for fancy headsets, let alone custom sound cards.

you don't even need that. A decent USB amp/dac like the fiio E10K and some panasonic rp-ht21 will go a long way.

https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00004T8R2/

You'll notice a huge difference with those two alone.

edit: extra info: If you got a little bit more money, go for Grado sr80e or Sennheiser HD 598's. Again, with that amp/dac, killer sound.

Headphones make a difference, but what they're plugged into make an even bigger difference.

Note: this setup is for PC. The amp/dac will work on the PS4, but will switch left and right for some reason, unless Sony fixed that.


u/TheMuffinsPie · 3 pointsr/audiophile

If your current audio DAC is fine, there may not be a reason to buy a seperate DAC, but that purchase will completely depend on your current setup.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but Amazon says the impedance of your headphones is 50 Ohms. This is an impedance spec that definitely will work fine without an AMP. However, should you decide to purchase an AMP (like the budget-oriented ones I'll post here), such as the 02 from Mayflower, the FiiO E10k or one of the Schiit AMPs like the Magni, you would find that the audio quality of your headphones would increase, since their full potential will be unlocked.

The Schiit combo is very high quality for the money, and I believe you'd be pretty happy with it.

u/Blais_Of_Glory · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

What's your budget? Where do you live? What type of music do you listen to? Are you looking for headphones that can be used for gaming? Do you need a mic with the headphones? What is the music coming from? For example, if you're listening to music through your computer and your headphones are connected to the computer, you would be better off getting a DAC and amp combo (something like the Schiit Fulla/Schiit Fulla on Amazon or FiiO E10K or Audioengine D1 or AudioQuest DragonFly) and then getting better headphones. I personally have tried several different brands and Sennheiser are my favorites. I currently have Sennheiser PC 363D (on Amazon) for gaming, movies, and TV and have the Sennheiser HD 598 SE (on Amazon) for music.

u/jakethepassion · 3 pointsr/Amd

So from my limited understanding of audio equipment I know that a DAC simply converts the digital signal from the computer to an analog signal for the headphones (a separate DAC helps the most with isolating the signal from interference from the computer). If you think the sound coming from your headphones is too quiet or lackluster what you really need is an amplifier to make the signal stronger, or a DAC/amp combo.

Two DAC/amp combos I see recommended often are the


Fiio E10K
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LP3AMC2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_8bEeAb0CH5BW4


SMSL SD793-II
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A2QLPJM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_ldEeAbHJ9PS48

Both have a DAC to isolate the signal and an amplifier to power higher end headphones.

u/ineedawindose · 3 pointsr/buildapc

you can also consider investing in a usb dac & an amp or a dac/amp like a fiio e10 and forgo the onboard audio completely. a bonus is that you can reuse this for future systems without worrying about onboard audio chipsets.

u/keeif · 3 pointsr/sffpc

Likely picking up interference from your graphics card. If you can, route the audio cable over the top of the motherboard and then down to the HD audio pins.

Though it might not be avoidable with how compact the case is and how close the ports are to the graphics card.

I think this gets worse with more power hungry cards. I've had the cable sitting right on the back of a 960 and never heard any interference but when I upgraded to a 970 I had to reroute the cable as I was hearing the same thing.

Only other option is buying a USB DAC and Amp like this.

u/Pomnom · 3 pointsr/reactiongifs

>It achieves making the phone water resistant, allowing for a digital audio connection, giving built in stereo speakers, not having to deal with a wire that gets snagged on things and leaving room in the phone for better laid out internals.

Links added. The last point is completely conjecture and they managed almost a decade without it. Also the lack of option. Every single smartphone can use bluetooth headset. Only iphone 7 cannot use wire headset.

u/Fai9al023 · 3 pointsr/headphones
u/Impressive_Username · 3 pointsr/MSI_Gaming

https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=fiio&qid=1563565779&s=gateway&sprefix=fiio&sr=8-3

Its 70, but worth every penny. I used it with my AKG k712 pros for about a year before upgrading to a soundblaster g6.

u/imanAholebutimfunny · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales
u/Plyphon · 3 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

https://www.amazon.co.uk/FiiO-Olympus-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2

These are highly regarded by /r/headphones as a industry standard in budget headphone amping for any listening types (home, studio, etc)

u/shadyinternets · 3 pointsr/audiophile

http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1416507419&sr=1-3&keywords=fiio

like justanotherdickweed mentioned, just get yourself a little USB/DAC and that should help.

the one i linked is a bit more than his link, but is more powerful/better in my opinion.

ive had a similar Fiio dac/amp for about 3 years, use it almost 7 hours a day 5 days a week at work and it has been worth every penny. they also have more portable versions like the e07 if you care to take it with you at any point.

u/onemanshownetwork · 3 pointsr/podcasting

If on a budget:

I like the Behringer q802usb for a mixer $65

2 ATR 2100 Mics $80 a piece

If you want to spend more on a mic that won't pick up as much noise:

Sennheiser E835 Dynamic Cardioid Vocal Microphone $100 a piece - but doesn't come with stand or pop filter...

Audio-Technica ATH-M30x Headphones to monitor sound or edit. $70

If you want your partner to have headphones, you will need a headphone amp $25 and chord $7

If you have any questions I have a Facebook Group for beginners: Podcasting Made Simple

u/bushwoodband · 3 pointsr/Reaper

I've experienced this issue as well - my workaround is using this headphone amp that I have ($24 on amazon, link below) in between my interface and the headphones, and it provides an extra level of gain, which gets me right in the sweet zone

Behringer Microamp HA400 Ultra-Compact 4-Channel Stereo Headphone Amplifier
by Amazon.com
Learn more: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KIPT30/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_qJR5CbD2RMWYB

u/kjack9 · 3 pointsr/Vive

I got this one for use with my HD558s. I'm then running a 30 ft long headphone extension (15ft from computer to link box, 15 ft for Vive cable) back to a Behringer headphone amp and then a DAC. I also have other 15 ft extensions (DisplayPort, USB, power) from the link box back to my PC.

The end result? 30 ft of Vive leash, headphone cable is cable-wrapped back to a proper headphone amp and DAC. No plugging/unplugging, and good sound quality to boot.

Granted, take everything I just said above with the understanding that I don't have a Vive yet, and it might work great...or not!

u/emosoresex · 3 pointsr/rocksmith

Truthfully the in game sound is perfectly fine IMO and up to par with any DAW I've used, the difference is likely in what you're using to output the sound (the two 12" are going to sound a ton better than shitty macbook speakers or not amazing quality headphones).

That being said I'm splitting to the same exact amp for my setup with a behringer headphone amplifier and dehummer.

I've heard other people use tuning pedals or AB/Y pedals which may (probably) are a cheaper and better solution, but I can't personally speak to that.

The downside of this setup is that you're going to still need to keep your volume at 10 and your tone at 10 on your guitar for the best RS note detection.

u/squirley2005 · 3 pointsr/audioengineering

Funnily enough I have myself just bought one of these for like £20. Well worth it!!

u/Yoav420 · 3 pointsr/audioengineering

Thank you for the reply.

Do you think these cheap Behringer MX400 and Behringer HA400 will do the job for band practice?

The only problem is that I have a very convenient record function on my drum module that records the mix in and the drums to a wav file on a SD card, by plugging everything to the mixer I lose this function so maybe I should wire like that:
Bass + Guitar -> MX400 -> Drum module -> HA400 -> headphones.
That way I can record easily while jamming, what do you think?

u/RnRpax · 3 pointsr/oculus

Interesting. My occipital bone doesn't really protude enough for it to catch on the back part of the strap. No matter how low I put it I am constantly adjusting the Rift (I've tried multiple variations of looseness/tightness on the straps).

Using four pieces of this and a piece of pvc I had laying around that came in at 230g (same as in that ebay listing) I now have it similarly on the back of the rift. First impressions just having it on and moving my head around it does seem to do the trick. It does feel weird with that pvc on the back of my neck though. I'll have to play around with this some more and see how it goes. I'd say see if you can cobble up something similar first.

u/Ratus_ · 3 pointsr/flashlight

>...wasting duck tape and putting it around my flashlight to act as a improvised shoulder mount.

Dude? Have you not seen these straps and ties and/or the Horror Fraught equivalent?

But also, get a freaking headlamp.

u/DoublePisters · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

VELCRO Brand One Wrap Thin Ties, Black, 8 x 1/2-Inch, 100 Count (91140) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_sPJ4AbT1SVS3B

u/slamgauge · 3 pointsr/synthesizers

I don't know if it is worth it to you to buy a big keyboard case but this is what I do. I have a very large keyboard case that I have my gear set up in. All the connections are set up and the wires are held down with velcro. I only have to hook up one piece of gear and I have all the cables labeled very clearly so any gear savy person could set my gear up for me. Live setup requires zero thinking. I can have everything set up and ready in less than five min. All I need is power and two lines out to the house.

If you can't go the giant coffin setup route then go with OCD labeling of all the things. To be rock solid fail proof have 2 of every cable you need. Both ends of every cable should be labeled as to what they plug into with a matching label on the device that the cable gets plugged into. Just match up the labels. Also have your power supply sorted before hand. Get a really nice power strip and secure all of your wall warts to it with tape or velcro straps. Label and wrap each power cable coming off of it so you can quickly identify what everything plugs into. Color coded tape is great for this but that might be overkill. I just use a label printer.

Then practice setting up your gear a few times. Tear your setup down and put everything out in a hallway. Turn all the lights off in your room and set up all your gear with just a flashlight in your teeth. Anything that confuses you for even a second needs to be streamlined, labeled better or made easier in whatever way necessary. Basically you need to be able to set up your gear in the dark while you are drunk and high. It takes a little prep work but it makes things so easy once you get up on stage.

Edit: These velcro straps are the best thing ever.

u/_mutelight_ · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I know you are looking to fix your cables but for future reference, I use these throughout my systems and they are great since you never have to worry about taking sharp objects near cables.

https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-ONE-WRAP-Management-Self-Gripping/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1466388086&sr=8-3&keywords=velcro+ties

u/glucoseboy · 3 pointsr/CableManagement

group the cables logically by destination (i.e. monitor cable, keyboard, mouse cable all go the the PC) and use velcro ties to secure them. Gather power cords that can plug into the same power strip. Again, use velcro ties to secure them together. Wind up any excess slack (again velcro ties)

You want velcro ties

u/renvorak · 3 pointsr/networking

I also refuse to pay a premium for velcro straps and got tired of dealing with zip ties (although they do look better).

I've been using these for the past 5+ years and love them. Home Depot carries a two pack (grey and black) for around $6 for 100. Amazon carries just the black in a two pack for around the same price.

I go through at least a role a week and since I have cable OCD I don't like to see the ends where you would typically use it to always remain attached. I usually cut the ends off and cut it in half leaving about 4" lengths. I also like this particular one because it's pretty thin compared to most I've seen.

Velcro Reusable Self-Gripping Cable Ties, 0.5 Inches x 8 Inches Long, Black, 100 Ties per Pack (91140)http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=cm_sw_r_an_am_ap_am_us?ie=UTF8

u/Moosedemeanor · 3 pointsr/cablefail
u/synt4x · 3 pointsr/gadgets

Twist ties and zip ties are garbage and seem to be the bane of /r/cableporn. What you really want is velcro ties. They're reusable, durable, a lot faster to use, and not that that expensive.

u/Steven_Mocking · 3 pointsr/cableporn

http://www.amazon.com/Velcro-Reusable-Self-Gripping-Inches-91140/dp/B001E1Y5O6

Those cable ties always look a ton better than zip ties and are a million limes easier to remove. Even though you say its permanent, nothing is ever PERMANENT.

u/Aceramic · 3 pointsr/homelab

Velcro cable wraps - Check your local Lowes/Home Depot/Walmart/Whatever, they may have the two packs for the same price as one roll from Amazon. I've lost entire rolls, and it's still worth the price. I'm sure I'll find the lost rolls eventually, of course. >.>

Rackmount PDU to replace the power strip you have on the floor.

Real rackmount gear to replace the home stuff you have stacked on top of other devices. ;)

u/Aleut · 3 pointsr/wikipedia

These things will save your relationship. You won't believe how much some people will try to charge you for a velcro cable ties. Caveat emptor: Velcro is a cat-fur magnet.

u/Alphanos · 3 pointsr/everymanshouldhave

I could see something like that being useful for one or two cords that you use really frequently, but they're too expensive for something like cleaning up your tangled pile of 20-30 random cables. For cable storage, something like this is ideal. 100 reusable Velcro cable ties for $6.50.

Also, before trying out those cable ties, I hadn't realized there was a difference between Velcro (the brand) and velcro (generic). I was quite pleasantly surprised.

u/TheAlmightyFur · 3 pointsr/MusicBattlestations
u/yevveh · 3 pointsr/synthesizers

+1 for gaffa tape and a sharpie, and to pass on another tip that I got from this forum, I'd recommend the Velcro cable ties. Used them myself and they really tidied up my desk. These ones look like the ones I got - https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Reusable-Fastening-Organizing/dp/B001E1Y5O6

u/Surely_Nawt · 3 pointsr/battlestations

If you havent already, these are the greatest thing for cable management and cheap!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1IqDDbW778NJM

u/porterble · 3 pointsr/headphones

I use copious numbers of these https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Black-2-Inch-91140/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495494005&sr=8-2&keywords=velcro+cable+tie

They are thin enough that they don't get in the way much, but provide a nice way to tidy up cables easily.

u/niandra3 · 3 pointsr/guitarpedals

I use these velcro cable ties to organize some cables on my board, a little less permanent if you're like me and are still changing things around somewhat frequently.

u/warinthestars · 3 pointsr/audio

yes.

Depending on your mixer, all you need is this: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1522086784&sr=8-4&keywords=1%2F8+to+trs

plug into headphone jack, plug into 1/4 inputs on mixer.

u/jabob513 · 3 pointsr/PCSound

I personally recommend the Klipsch ProMedia as the best sub-$200 option. Sound is really solid and it's definitely got the bass. Plugging your computer in is straightforward and I believe the newest version has bluetooth as well. Best Buy used to have it as a demo with their computer speakers, not sure if they do anymore.

A better option might be studio monitors like the JBL LSR305/LSR30X which are also an insane deal. You'd need to get a bluetooth adapter and you'd need to worry about inputs (many studio monitors take 1/4" or XLR, which would require janky adapters (probably won't sound great out of a headphhone out without something like this) or a dac/audio interface like this or this. The JBL approach will get you a better sound (more accurate to the music, more balanced sound, magical amazing beautiful and perfect imaging) but will probably be a bit above what you'd like to spend. Most of that stuff can also be bought used if you are okay with that.

I would try and stretch or save up a bit for the monitors. They're a pretty solid step up from most all "computer speakers," and the JBLs in particular are one of the best bang-for-buck deals in audio that I've seen.

Best of luck, and feel free to shoot me a PM with more questions or what you decide to do!

u/idontlikevegetables · 3 pointsr/Guitar

Those loudspeaker jacks on the left side are for attaching another cabinet (speakers without an amp) to your amp. That "internal off" switch means you can drive a separate cabinet (treating your amp as a head) or you can run both the speakers in the combo and external speakers.

Which adapter are you using from your computer currently? The normal input jack on an amp (usually) takes a 1/4" TS (mono) cable in, so your adapter might be a 3.5mm TRS (stereo) male -> 1/4" TRS female cable.

What you really want is the stereo signal from your computer's mini jack to be split into two 1/4" male jacks.

If you have the adapter as I described above, you can use the cable you listed to go into the aux in on the amp. That's what I would do. Alternatively, if you have a different adapter (like 3.5" male-> 1/4" male, which wouldn't plug into the one you listed), you could use this cable instead:

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_4?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1520265704&sr=1-4&keywords=TRS+to+TS

Keep in mind that your amp cabinet has two 12" speakers and there's no tweeter to handle high frequencies. You're going to get a low-range response and the drums (particularly the hi-hat) are going to sound muffled no matter what.

u/DrunkieMunkie · 3 pointsr/Twitch

Hola! I set all this up last year so it’s a bit rusty!

This is a shopping list for an Xbox One mixer setup similar to mine and you may need some help filling in a few gaps and the wiring!

So the idea is to build a setup to be able to use an awesome mic to talk to the stream as well as party chat ‘at the same time’ (which I prefer over using a headset) but to also be able to hear game/chat/PC audio though a single pair of headphones and control their volume levels in one place with ease.

I don't need sound going out to my PC as the Cap card is getting that from the Console via HDMI.
Streaming Xbox to PC then the WORLD!

Xbox – hdmi into a cap card in the PC Avermedia live gamer hd
http://www.amazon.co.uk/AverMedia-61C9850000AE-Avermedia-Live-Gamer/dp/B007SRYAPO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1447858313&sr=8-2&keywords=live+gamer+hd
This grabs the game audio and that’s that bit done, stream using OBS and boom!

Here's is my shopping list for party chat:

Mixer

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Behringer-802-Premium-8-Input-Preamps/dp/B000J5XS3C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415150891&sr=8-1&keywords=behringer+mixer
Headset Buddy (Real name, I didn’t make that up!)

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Headset-Buddy-Adapter-PC35-PH25-Computer/dp/B002D41HKS/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1421341934&sr=1-3&keywords=headset+buddy

Xbox Chat Thing:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Xbox-One-Stereo-Headset-Adapter/dp/B00IAVDOS6

Cable from Buddy to Mixer:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415150937&sr=8-1&keywords=hosa+cables

Cable from Mixer to Buddy!

http://www.amazon.co.uk/HosaTech-CMS-105-3-5mm-Stereo-Interconnect/dp/B000068O35/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1447857349&sr=8-1&keywords=3.5mm+TRS+to+1%2F4+inch

Xbox Mixer(s)

Astro Mixamp (I use)
http://www.amazon.co.uk/ASTRO-Gaming-3AM99-HBU9X-975-ASTROGAMING-MIXAMP/dp/B004L6C6BK/ref=sr_1_4?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1447856882&sr=1-4&keywords=astro+mixamp

Earforce DSS (an option!)

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Force-Channel-Dolby-Surround-Processor-Mac/dp/B003O0KICS/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1421378828&sr=1-1&keywords=dss1

Ground Loop things:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Headphone-Ground-Isolator-Filter-Stereo/dp/B00INV5LB6/ref=pd_sim_sbs_23_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41-9H3Hc3mL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1TTNMJANJDTK26VVSAE7

Although I have used these ones because I didn’t see the ones above!

http://www.amazon.co.uk/AV-Link-201-086-Skytronic-Isolator/dp/B000NVWB9O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1447857227&sr=8-1&keywords=Ground+Loop+Isolator

Mic wise any XLR mic is fine!

Here is a link to a image i found that kinda helps piece it all together! http://imgur.com/UYaQQUZ

Here is a quick vid of my setup, happy to help if i can! http://www.twitch.tv/drunkiemunkie/v/26306849

Heres is my latest Xbox One vid with party chat but it picks up the Public Lobby if they speak!
http://www.twitch.tv/drunkiemunkie/v/31799799

dM

u/emorello · 3 pointsr/synthesizers

I have the JX-8P and Juno106, which were pretty similar to the JX-3p and the stereo out is for their chorus effect (slight movement between the channels). In the originals, if you didn't want stereo, you could just plug in a 1/4" into the left and it would work just fine, chorus and all, then you can plug into whatever guitar pedals. I guess you could do the same by getting a Stereo Breakout, 3.5 mm TRS to Dual 1/4 in TS.

u/Lincolnton · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

If you don't mind swapping the 3.5mm plug to whatever device you are using something like this will work

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6

u/MonsterEgg · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

If your phone has a regular headphone jack, all you need is this type of cable. Rip the red and black 1/4 plugs apart as much as you need, plug the red into the right speaker and the black into the left, and the other end into your phone.

u/AstronautMike_Dexter · 3 pointsr/audio

Male 1/8" TRS (mini jack) to Dual Male 1/4" TRS cable. Like this one.

If you wanted to go a higher fidelity route than this one, I would use a DAC (digital to analog converter) like the Nuforce uDAC with a USB cable from the computer to the DAC and single RCA cables going from the DAC to each speaker.

u/deplorable-d00d · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

PC --> 3.5mm stereo to dual 1/4" phono plugs --> into the sub ==> dual 1/4" to 1/4" cables out of the sub to the mains. The crossover is in the sub.

You don't need a usb interface.

That sub (despite the graphic on the back) will accept (and output) an unbalanced signal using TS plugs, it doesn't have to be TRS or a balanced signal.

Also keep an eye on Monoprice's promo code sales - for Memorial Day they had a code for $10 off $100+, $25 off $250+, $50 off $500+ - they'll prob do the same, if not more, for July 4th.

You could probably find the cables at Monoprice too

u/_V_H_S_ · 3 pointsr/synthesizers

Your mixer is most likely a mono input. When I had my volcas, I used this cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HGM1D6
You just need one of the 1/4" end into your mixer.

u/lovetape · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

FiiO makes a cheap but solid dac ($19.99 from parts-express.com or if you have prefer Amazon it's 24.99 with prime)

1 optical in, 1 coaxial in, 1 3.5 line-out, and L-R output to your amp.

u/Galapagos_Tortoise · 3 pointsr/PS4

Unless you have a receiver you might be SOL. You could buy a cheap pair of speakers and one of these bad boys.

u/Scandinavian_Flick · 3 pointsr/audiophile

If you leave the Impedance set on the '4 ohm' selection, play the amp for an extended period of time and see if it heats up. Because the speakers themselves are only 8 ohms, you should not have a problem.

Does the receiver have a tape monitors in/out? that would be the way to hook up an external EQ, that way you can punch the EQ in or out to your liking. Personally, I haven't hooked up my external EQ in over 5 years, they just impart distortion.

If you want a DAC to simply bypass your onboard analog and don't need any amplifications (since you have the receiver) try the FIIO D3

http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-D3-Digital-Converter-Optical/dp/B005K2TXMO

It's cheap and guys around these parts that have them say they do a great job

u/OJNeg · 3 pointsr/audiophile

I'm going to assume you want to use this for a desktop, gaming setup. If you could stretch out to $200, you could grab the Audioengine A2s, but if you want to operate on super low costs, try this.

DAC + Vintage receiver + Passive (bookshelf) speakers

You can find a good vintage receiver for cheap at thrift stores or Craigslist. Same with the speakers. You could probably do that on less than $100 depending on where you live. If you need help hooking stuff up, message me.

u/MommaSaidSpockYouOut · 3 pointsr/diyaudio

Something like this?

Is there a better option? I appreciate your help.

u/Sluisifer · 3 pointsr/diyaudio

Are you sure there isn't a minijack somewhere? Sometimes there are two sets of IOs, e.g. one on the back of the TV, and one on the side.

If there is only an optical out, you'll need a DAC (digital/analog converter) and an amp (you need some sort of amp regardless).

Here's an example of an inexpensive DAC https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO . I have no idea if that's any good; you'll want to get recommendations for the best options, but it would certainly work.

Amps are more complicated, and many people will put as much thought into their amps as they do their speakers. For a solid budget option, the Lepai 2020 https://www.parts-express.com/lepai-lp-2020ti-digital-hi-fi-audio-mini-amplifier-with-power-supply--310-3000 will work well. It's a bit underpowered for e.g. the Overnight Sensations, but the higher sensitivity of the C-note should make it suitable unless you want quite high volume.

There are also amps out there with built-in DACs, so will have an optical in and stereo out all in one box.

u/Armsc · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Don't mess with headphone plugs. Your TV doesn't have analog audio outputs on. To use that amp (analog only) you'll need a converter $25 and an RCA cable. The problem with this is volume control. You'll have to get up every time you want to adjust the volume because that amp doesn't have a remote. Oh yeah and you're going to be very limited by power as that amp probably only puts out 20 watts at best. While more than enough for a desk it might be kinda light for a decent sized room especially with no sub handling the bass. I would pass honestly.

The correct way to do this would be to get an AVR and speakers. That way you can have all the inputs you need and all the control you need over the sound. You also get a remote and more than likely an app for you phone to control volume. You could go for a more expensive amp but they are almost as much as a refurb AVR.

u/GoogleNoAgenda · 3 pointsr/PS4

You just need something like this. You might be able to find others cheaper somewhere else. This was just the first entry I found.

u/kingofnima · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Wat you need is a digital analog converter usually revered to as a DAC. Now yes you might be able to get an amplifier with one but that would be a rather large change to the system. The alternative is to get a standalone DAC that converts the digital optical source to analog rca outputs. Here is an example of a DAC that would do.

u/bonestamp · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Not if you buy a DAC/preamp, an amp and speakers (a "receiver" is generally a preamp and amp in one unit). He's talking about piecing it together separately. I'm not necessarily recommending these items, but for example:

DAC:
http://amzn.com/B005K2TXMO

Amp:
http://amzn.com/B000VKXLBO

Speakers:
http://amzn.com/B003N18QK4

u/NorseSock · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

I'm going to give you a list with some upgraded options.

|Item|Base|Upgrade|
|-----|------|---------|
|Mod|Sentinel M16 Clone ($24.99)|Nemesis Clone($31.99)|
|RDA|IGO-W ($12.99)|
|Battery|Sony VTC5 ($10.99)|Buy more.|
|Charger|Nitecore i2 ($11.55)|Nitecore i4 ($16.25)|
|Wire|28 gauge Kanthal ($7.30)|
|Cotton|Your local drugstore, like $4)||
|Total|$71.82 + tax/shipping|All upgrades: $94.51|

You could save a couple bucks by ordering from China, but you'll be waiting quite a while for your stuff. I'm not a huge fan of the Sentinel clone, but it's really inexpensive. If you're cool waiting like a month, then I'd get the Nemesis Clone from FastTech.

u/newhere_ · 3 pointsr/apple

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004SP0WAQ/

These exist. Small, cheap. And no latency of a USB sound card.

(Not an endorsement for that particular item, I've bought some from clearance bins and it's such a basic piece of hardware it's hard to mess up.)

u/irondal2 · 3 pointsr/tifu

I think you are in need of this.

u/blueberrypoptart · 3 pointsr/vita

You haven't said what your headset's connectors are...

Edit: If I assume your headset uses 2 3.5mm ports, then these would be what you're looking for:
http://amzn.com/B004SP0WAQ . Less than 7 bucks; get it on Tuesday with Prime.

u/phixional_ninja · 3 pointsr/xboxone

You definitely can use regular headphones. If you have a pair without a built in mic, you can add one. I just added a mic to my AKG K550s with these:
>http://amzn.com/B004SP0WAQ

>http://amzn.com/B00029MTMQ

u/AbrogateAnon · 3 pointsr/audio

TRRS -----> Tip (Left Channel), Ring (Right Channel), Ring (Common/Ground), Sleeve (Microphone +)

Yes, you can buy an extension, but unless your computer input panel is 4-pin capable then you will still have the same problem

Heres an extention: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-MUHSMF2M-Position-Headset-Extension/dp/B008DWGLLO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1406307141&sr=8-2&keywords=StarTech.com+3.5mm+4+Position+TRRS

and here's what I think you need. This will split the signal into two outputs: one for headphones, one for audio. just plug one into the headphone jack on the computer and one into the microphone jack.You may need to switch them around the first time you try them because this one isn't labeled.
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-MUYHSFMM-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B0058DOWH6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1406307228&sr=8-2&keywords=4-pin+TRRS+to+computer

u/red_nick · 3 pointsr/audio

Replace "male to female" with "female to male" and you get what you're looking for
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0058DOWH6

u/NewPSP · 3 pointsr/headphones

What your headset has is a 4 pole TRRS jack, which means that it combines both headphone output and microphone input in one wire. The way to have both elements recognised by your computer is to get a 4-pole TRRS to 2x 3-pole TRS adaptor so that you can plug the headphone output and mic input into separate jacks.

Something like this would work:https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-Position-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B0058DOWH6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1480274772&sr=8-5&keywords=startech+4+position

u/substitutemyown · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Guessing the headset only has a single jack? If so you'll need an adapter like this (4 pole to 2x3 pole) to split it into mic+headphones.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-Position-Headset-Splitter-Adapter-Black/dp/B0058DOWH6

u/IceprincessOCN · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

My setup is quite simple

u/Kaligraphic · 3 pointsr/audioengineering

You have a balanced XLR input and it's only playing the difference between the left and right channels. You're playing a track that has the instruments panned left and right, and the vocals relatively centered.

First, what you want is something more along the lines of this 1/8" to 1/4" breakout cable. If you have a free stereo channel, plug both 1/4" plugs into there, otherwise just plug it into two adjacent mono channels, pan them all the way left and right, and adjust them together.

Second, you should know that most mixers can supply 48V on their XLR inputs. Condenser microphones need that, dynamic mics don't care, but laptop audio ports can fry. 1/4" jacks are safe, though, so always prefer them above XLR for computer/phone/iPod type input.

u/AkwardImplants · 3 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

It will be easy to find out. Plug your headphones into the female end. Plug one of the two male plugs into your keyboard and play something. If you only hear sound in one ear, you're good to go.

If you want to go dual 1/4" male into a single stereo male mini plug, you can buy that cable here.

Keep in mind that depending of the quality of your keyboard's internal grounding circuitry, you could get some hum and/or phase issues, but probably shouldn't have any problems.

u/Ruairi101 · 3 pointsr/audio

Yamaha HS monitors have 1/4inch TRS and XLR inputs (no RCA as far as I know), so if you wanted to use them with a desktop without any/minimal extra hardware, you could get a 3.5mm to dual 1/4 inch cable (like this); 3.5mm goes into your computer's headphone jack, 1/4 inches go into the monitors.

Someone else can probably give better advice on whether or not to buy a DAC/interface. I use HS7s and I plug them into a Scarlett 2i2, which has 1/4 inch monitor outs. There's also a 1/4 inch headphone jack with separate volume knobs, so I can switch between monitors and headphones without much fuss. I'm pretty happy with that setup, but a 2i2 might be overkill just for that alone (I use it for recording from XLR mics as well, that's its main purpose).

If you're using a USB headset, you can keep them plugged in for both of the above approaches and switch audio devices via your OS when you need them.

u/HoustonWHOO · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Gotcha, so something like this then?


https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6


Thanks for the quick reply!

u/tyrannosaurus_wrex · 3 pointsr/audiophile

I think there is a tech support sticky...but...my thought is that your 3.5mm to dual 3.5mm is splitting the stereo signal into two separate stereo signals (like for plugging in two sets of headphones for two people to listen at the same time). You want something that splits the stereo signal into separate left and right to go into your speakers, or just a cable like this.

u/salnajjar · 3 pointsr/karaoke

You're going to need a mixer, to take the audio from the microphones and the karaoke backing track and then put out the final version (also some people sing louder than others so you'll need to be able to adjust individual volumes).
This means you'll also need an amplifier, as most TV's don't have an audio in connection.
This means you'll also need speakers.

You could look at getting some decent amplified speakers, you only need one if you're doing this in a home.

Lastly, look into something like Karafun initially as the software. You can take out a 48 hour subscription for about £5 and then you have access to all their songs. Just read about no internet at farm, not even wireless data that you can tether via mobile phone?

So to recap, you need to purchase:

u/KnockKnockComeIn · 3 pointsr/Logic_Studio

To send/receive MIDI you need MIDI to USB interface.

To receive audio signal you need dual 1/4 TS cable to 1/8” TRS cable.

Option1: Money is not an issue:

OP you’re best bet would be a audio interface as it allows you to connect your keyboard plus so much more.

Something like this:
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/Scarlet2i4G2--focusrite-scarlett-2i4-usb-audio-interface

And midi cables and TS cables




Option 2: Money is an issue/not ready to for a audio interface:

MIDI to USB built into MIDI cable:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0719V8MX1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UBGmDbDYWDC3D

1/4 TS to 1/8 TRS:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XCGmDbF1750Q2

u/raistlin65 · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

If you like to pump your bass, then I recommend the JBL LSR 305 for $89 each. https://www.amazon.com/JBL-Professional-LSR305-First-Generation-Powered/dp/B00DUKP37C/

The LSR305 are studio monitors that compete well in overall SQ with the best powered speakers <$500. IMO, they have better midbass and deeper bass extension than many other speakers their size. For example their lower end rated response is 43hz for their 5" drivers vs. 60hz for those Edifiers with the smaller 4" drivers. I think realistically, they have solid 50hz performance (and likely the Edifiers would be more like 70hz).

Tons of professional reviews for those speakers as they have been popular for years.

You would need to also purchase a special cable to plug it into your computer: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6

u/rsilverblood · 3 pointsr/ZReviews

http://www.jblpro.com/www/products/recording-broadcast/3-series/lsr305#.VtfW7pJriM0

Click the 2nd picture. It uses XLR or TRS (1/4" mono) connectors. You can use a 3.5mm to 2x 6.3mm mono (read: 1/4") Y splitter.

Translated: You need a cable that takes your 3.5mm stereo and makes it into two 1/4" mono.

(You should have a 3.5mm output from your motherboard's audio. But hopefully you'll buy a dedicated DAC if you want better audio.)

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=pd_bxgy_267_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1MRSZFN3VTTRTHXTX1PW

That kind of cable. You can use 1/4" mono audio extension cables if you've got longer cable runs.

NOTE: Your link is for ONE JBL LSR305. You'll need two if you plan to run it in stereo. Just sayin'

u/Trick5ter · 3 pointsr/diyaudio

You just need this - https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1403569361&sr=1-1&keywords=hosa+3.5+stereo+to+dual+1%2F4

Connect it to both speakers and the jack goes to pc and configure your soundcard to output stereo instead of 5.1 (I am not sure about this part since ive never used 5.1)

Also your speakers will work in single ended mode which is ok if the cables are not too long.

u/criose · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Yes, using adapters like this or this you can connect them to unbalanced sources using 3.5mm TRS or RCA respectively.

u/CrusherW9 · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Purchasing them individually will be fine. Each one should come with a power cable. Using them as a pair, each one will need to be plugged into power, and you'll need to connect each one to a signal. The speakers operate completely independently of each other. So to plug it into a normal 3.5mm source, a 3.5mm to 1/4" TS (mono) cable is what you want. XLR should only be used when your source is balanced, which a 3.5mm port from a computer motherboard or phone for instance is not. I used this exact cable with my BX5 D2s for a while until I got an audio interface and went XLR.

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1500337888&sr=8-4&keywords=3.5mm+to+1%2F4+ts

u/Syradil · 3 pointsr/audiophile

My Christmas gifts have complicated my computer setup and I am wondering if a Schiit Uber stack is the answer.

I got myself a pair of JBL LSR305's and was gifted some Sennheiser 598's.

Currently using this cable to connect the LSR305's to my computer with no easy way to use the headphones or connect my ps3.

The way I picture it working is the computer connecting to the Schiit Modi 2 Uber via USB and the ps3 via optical, with the output running to the amp.

The amp is where my questions are. With the 305's connected to the Magni 2 Uber, will the volume knob control the speaker volume when no headphones are connected? Also, will the output automatically switch over to headphones when I plug them in to the Magni?

u/e60deluxe · 3 pointsr/hometheater

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HGM1D6/

since you need to get it tonight, i would check at a music equipment store, like Guitar Center, or similar.

u/Costco1L · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Those included cords will not cover all of your needs since the Scarlett Solo does not have TRS or XLR output. You could actually just plug this into your computer's headphone jack (if the DAC is good). What's the point of the Scarlet interface other than a volume control knob? It just seems like a lot to spend at your budget if that's its main use.

u/dimensiation · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I like the velcro wraps because they're easy to use and reuse, cheap, and you can have cables enter and exit the cable run at any point. It does mean the cables aren't hidden exactly, but it keeps them together. I also use multiple ties to mount things to my desk legs, like power strips or power bricks.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1Y5O6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/littlekittensrock · 3 pointsr/minimalism

I bought these and I love them! Unlike other things they're reusable and they don't require any nailing to the wall or anything. Here's what the underside of my desk looks like thanks to them.

u/jasongill · 3 pointsr/cableporn

I had ~10 racks with almost the exact same setup (same racks, same servers, very similar cable layout and switch position).

My advice to you is to tie the cables off in such a way that they are not touching the rack rails. Those hooks you see on the left side of the photo on the rack rails? They move with the server and love to catch the ethernet cables. Similar situation happens on the side with the power cables, although not as bad due to different cable management attachment point on the other side.

You will say to yourself, but sir, I will always be sure to power the server off and then disconnect all cables before removing it from the rack! - likely very true statement. However, no one else will give 2 shits about it and will do the old "I'll just pull this server out a half inch so I can go around back and tell which one it is" trick, which then pulls your ethernet cables into the pinch-n-cut hook, and the power cables pull out. Then your life gets worse :)

I suggest getting some of the really thin Velcro cable wraps like these - http://amzn.com/B001E1Y5O6?tag=amz-link-20 - then apply them liberally to keep stuff tied back and out of the way. They are really thin and don't get in the way like the thicker expensive ones do so they work great for actually tying the cables directly to the sliding section of the rack rails.

u/snyderversetrilogy · 3 pointsr/ota

So the satellite dish is on the side of the house then? If the coax cable is coming out of the attic vent near the roof peak you might be able to mount the antenna at the roof peak. This is the antenna I got (they have it at Walmart): https://www.amazon.com/RCA-Compact-Outdoor-Antenna-Range/dp/B0024R4B5C. It works great, for me at least.

u/colossalfalafel1216 · 3 pointsr/phoenix

So I tried the high end Mohu style indoor antenna, and had to buy a larger outdoor antenna. The indoor had inconsistencies in video quality or video loss. After putting an outdoor one up, we've had no issues.

This is the one I picked up: RCA Compact Outdoor Yagi HDTV Antenna https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024R4B5C/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_L0DwxbG8DN1A2

It's been up for about a year and a half, great so far

u/musjunk22 · 3 pointsr/ChicagoSuburbs

Try r/ota. Also check out tvfool.com I'm in Batavia also and I had to use an outdoor antenna to get more than a couple channels. If you look around town you'll see a lot of different outdoor antennas. We're just a little too far from most of the Chicago transmitters to get a reliable signal indoors. I got a very good outdoor setup from Olmstead's downtown. I installed it myself but they do installs also if you're not the DIY type or have a fear of heights. It was more than $150 for the smaller outdoor antenna they have plus a small mast. I used a chimney mount, they only sell tripod mounts.

You could go the bargain route. I think this antenna may have good results RCA Compact Outdoor Yagi HDTV Antenna with 70 Mile Range https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024R4B5C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-EEhAbKQEE41W

u/kevlarlover · 3 pointsr/Chattanooga

Yup, I live in North Shore (in one of the valleys - bad place for TV reception), mounted an antenna in my attic (not even an exterior one) and I get all the channels in crystal-clear quality.

If you're up on a hill or in a flat area with few obstructions, something like an amplified Mohu Leaf will probably be enough; if you're somewhere like me where reception is a challenge, you'll need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024R4B5C/ - maybe with a separate amplifier.

u/KalenXI · 3 pointsr/HamRadio

In my experience unless you live close to the TV stations those "black rectangle" antennas are at best mediocre for UHF stations and terrible for VHF stations. Do you have an attic you could put an antenna in? If so you could try getting something more directional like this design. If you don't have the space for a larger antenna I'd recommend looking for something that at least has a traditional "rabbit ears" element that you can extend to pick up the VHF channels better.

u/MSUBREW · 3 pointsr/cordcutters

I spent $45 or so for the RCA attic/outdoor antenna and it works great and I get all of the channels you mentioned with perfect quality. Here is the antenna.

u/lafreniereluc · 3 pointsr/ottawa

> ?

Hey Antonio, figured you may find my post interesting. I used to live around the Riverside/Hurdman bus station, with a set of VHF/UHF cheap antenna, I used to get most channels since I was up high in an apartment. 5 years ago, I moved to the burbs of Barrhaven (townhome). My tv was in the basement, so I interconnected coax cables up to my second story and had that same antenna there and barely got anything.

I proceeded to invest in a better antenna. After some research, I settled on this one: http://www.amazon.ca/RCA-ANT751R-Outdoor-Optimized-Reception/dp/B0024R4B5C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1419899680&sr=8-2&keywords=rca+ant

It's a little large, but for myself, I was able to install inside my attic so it's completely out of sight. Pointed it at the Gatineau hills (the source of the signals) and programmed my tv.

I get a VERY SOLID set of channels that work through all weather.

They include channels: 4, 6, 9, 11, 13, 14, 24, 30, 40, 42, 43, 60, 65.

u/OreoRants · 3 pointsr/PleX

The Winegard Pre-Amp is what made the biggest difference for me.
https://www.amazon.com/Winegard-LNA-200-Preamplifier-Antenna-Amplifier/dp/B00DQN3R9O/
I use the RCA Yagi for my antenna, and it has been solid.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0024R4B5C
This site can help you aim and know what you should get pretty easily as well.
https://www.fcc.gov/media/engineering/dtvmaps

Good Luck!

u/rob132 · 3 pointsr/NYGiants

Get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Antenna-Satellite-Broadcast-Epicenter-Reception/dp/B0024R4B5C/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1YO4M03HRGQRA&keywords=antenna+tv+digital+hd+outdoor&qid=1570114501&sprefix=antenna%2Caps%2C145&sr=8-4

And one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/SiliconDust-HDHomeRun-HDHR5-2US-Splitter-Reusable/dp/B077H1XKLX/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=silicondust+homerun&pd_rd_r=1325f7af-b7c2-4b27-a0ff-0e58a5aa6ab1&pd_rd_w=dv5KC&pd_rd_wg=puSLG&pf_rd_p=7be70e42-b5c0-4077-873a-35a472a6fbd4&pf_rd_r=SGH7QN4K5K18242HAQ0S&qid=1570114537&sr=8-5

If you live in an area that's too far from the antenna, you can get 2-14 from your cable provider for $10 per month (that's what I do. I got all the channels with my antenna expect for FOX)

Sign up for the DVR service for $5 per month, and you're all set.

Oh, I forgot the hardest part.

During the giants game, you have to cut yourself off from the rest of the world. No cell phones, no social media. A glimpse of the score ruins everything.

u/4-string · 3 pointsr/houston

I've used this antenna with great results. Installed in attic with all channels clear. I'm on the edge of third ward.

u/BattleSausage · 3 pointsr/Pensacola

Here is it mounted to my fence, and this is the amazon link. It can be pole mounted, but what I would do is grab a 4x4x8' and put it in the ground 3 feet, then mount it to that. I am sure your landlord won't have a problem with that.

u/ryanhollister · 3 pointsr/Austin

I had directv previously. went up to the roof, took the dish off. put this guy (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0024R4B5C) on the mast and reused the wiring directv conveniently dropped throughout my house. works perfectly, get all the channels on all the tvs without an amplifier. I live in cedar park.

u/ZippyTheChicken · 3 pointsr/ota

The specs on that Omni Antenna

VHF Gain 4.5dBUHF Gain 4.3dB

Problem you have is Fox

It is stronger from Toledo but your best group of stations is from Detroit.

Since its a weak antenna and they suggest an ampthe situation with that is... it is always best to go with the largest antenna that you can because more signal is better than boost.

All your stations for now are UHF except Fox Detroit which is VHF 7

So I am only considering your Good and Fair signals because the Poor signals are weak and if you try to get them you would need an amplifier and you might boost your stronger signals too much by the time you could get the really weak ones.. I do use amps and strong antennas in my setup .. over amping can be an issue.. it can shutdown your tuner and you get no signals.

So that Omni antenna at 4db of gain is kinda weak .. better or best antennas are from 8 to 16 db of gain every 3.5db of increase in gain is doubling .. so going from 4 to 8 is like 125% stronger not 100%

If I was you I would get at minimum a VHF High antenna and point it at toledo where the weaker signals are coming from and then your signals from Detroit that are strong should come in anyway... if that doesn't work well for you then point it at detroit and you should get good reception

right now you can get one of these for $29 used acceptable from Amazon.. probably in perfect condition but you can always return it .... Or pay $10 more for a new one .. its up to you .. New might be worth it buy I bought my antennas from amazon warehouse and they were in great condition.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0024R4B5C/?ie=UTF8&condition=all

​

If you are supplying signal to more than one tv you might want a distribution amp

u/N3t_runn3r · 3 pointsr/PleX

My HDHR Prime works near perfectly with a good attic mounted antenna.(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0024R4B5C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) My Plex DVR is pretty good but I'd say still a work in progress. Many people do not realize that the right antenna mounted high is EVERYTHING.

u/BiffBiffkenson · 3 pointsr/cordcutters

About 14 miles out all in the same direction but ABC, PBS and CW are high vhf channels that an indoor antenna may have issues with.

I use this and have a similar situation in relation to the closest tower. I went from a paper clip (nothing) to rabbit ears (had to keep adjusting them, PITA) to putting the linked antenna in the attic. I get about 55 channels now. My attic is 45 ft above ground.

If I had ONLY wanted uhf channels I'd have been fine with some sort of indoor antenna but for the occasional sports - NFL games, College football and basketball an antenna with vhf elements was necessary for CBS in my area (also about 14 miles away and LOS). Not a huge sports fan anymore but its nice to have the option.

I was going to try a winegard freevision which I could have mounted in a window but I went straight to a bigger antenna in the attic. You can get the freevision at Home Depot and if its not right for you return it.

u/Jon_G · 3 pointsr/nashville

I live 11 miles outside of Nashville, and had problems picking up anything besides NBC and PBS with a set-top antenna. Upgraded to a setup like you are looking at; outdoor antenna that fit in my attic ( http://amzn.com/B0024R4B5C ) and added a preamp ( http://amzn.com/B003P92D9Y )

I pointed it towards the ABC/CBS/FOX towers and crossed my fingers. Fortunately, I was picking up all the major networks, PBS, and a bunch of independent stations. somewhere around 45 stations/substations total. Works great, couldn't be happier.

The problem you may is that the broadcast towers are on the far side of Nashville from you. You may have to go with a large outdoor pole-mounted antenna to pick up anything.

Not sure if my setup is good enough to work in Murfreesboro. You could order it from amazon, hook it up without mounting anything to test it, and if it doesn't work, return to amazon.

u/vanillaskin · 3 pointsr/Boxing

absolutely! it would be impossible without one. i use this one.

u/hypermog · 3 pointsr/DirecTV

Could be a problem with the HDCP handshake. You could try running it through an HDMI splitter like this which will give the directv box a consistent HDCP handshake.

u/ManicComputer · 3 pointsr/PS3

I use an Elgato HD60. Your going to need an HDMI 1x2 splitter to remove the HDCP like this one as well.

u/theastropath · 3 pointsr/Twitch

I don't know if there are (m)any capture cards that ignore HDCP, but you can easily strip HDCP instead using a splitter, such as this ViewHD one

u/Brawli55 · 3 pointsr/Twitch
u/donpedrox · 3 pointsr/letsplay

Don't listen to these other people telling you it wont work. It will, its just hit and miss. the splitter you bought is not one that is known to scramble the HDCP signal. This one had yeilded better results if you can I say return the one you bought and try the viewHD one. what you've got to do is connect one output to ElgatoHD60 and one to your tv. so a flow chart would be like:

PS3->HDMI Splitter Input

HDMI Splitter Output 1-> TV

HDMI Splitter Output 2 -> Elgato HD60

This should be enough to scrable the HDCP signal but like I said it is hit and miss.

Edit: I've re read your post it sounds like you are only using one output. for the splitter to work you must use both outputs. I suggest you try my flowchart with your current splitter before returning and purchasing another one. To make it a but more clear, you will need a total of THREE (3)
HDMI cables for the splitter to work.

u/eric5949 · 3 pointsr/pcgaming
u/Kudzero · 3 pointsr/Piracy

I use the "ViewHD" HDMI splitter. I was into game capture stuff on PS3 and literally everything that comes out of the PS3 HDMI is HDCP protected.
Here's an Amazon link
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004F9LVXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T1_ec7GzbV5GZY03

Also, I would highly recommend the Elgato Game Capture HD60 Pro, the video latency so low you can game while viewing the capture software on a pc monitor instead of having a second tv/monitor to view the live gaming video and a pc monitor to view/record from a game capture device, if that makes sense.

u/Sports-Nerd · 3 pointsr/movies

I had the same problem with my TV, ordered this and now it works great.

u/bigbigspoon · 3 pointsr/PleX

What was happening? This sounds like it could be a HDCP issue. You can bypass most issues with one of these if anyone was wondering. Apple devices cause tons of these issues in conference rooms, especially when splitting signals. Good to know you saved the day!

u/ZeroShift · 3 pointsr/linux

I ordered this one a few months ago, works like a charm!

u/uematsufreak · 3 pointsr/Twitch

The issue with capturing video from your PS3 through HDMI is the HDCP in the signal. Certain splitters happen to also strip the HDCP from the signal, making it a-ok to be captured, so yes, you'd want a splitter for this and not a switcher. (A splitter takes one signal and outputs it to multiple while a switcher takes multiple signals and allows you to choose which one is passed through to a single cable.)

This is the one I use for that purpose: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/kare_kano · 3 pointsr/androidapps

If you want to do WiFi streaming, install $3.50 BubbleUPnP on the phone and use the Windows 10 built-in DLNA streaming. If you're on Ubuntu you can install pulseaudio-dlna and use it as output from sound settings. I'm sure there's something for Mac as well.

For USB, what you're looking for is called a USB DAC. If you're really strapped for cash and don't have fancy tastes in sound quality, or quality headphones, then one of these $5-7 puppies will take care of it. Quality is touch and go, some may be DOA and need replacing, but they'll get the job done. You can also go for a $20 Signstek (PCM2704), but I wouldn't recommend more expensive ones without knowing what headphones you're using and what you want from them.

If you do, I can recommend the $40 FiiO K1, $65 SMSL SD793-II or $75 FiiO E10K, but if you do that you should also look into putting $50-200 into decent headphones and you're probably not looking for that.

Whatever you do DO NOT get USB headphones. Decent ones are expensive, cheap ones are absolute crap. A $5 DAC like above and a $25 pair of Sennheiser HD202 will be better and can be replaced separately or even taken apart and repaired if they break.

u/CAvalanche11 · 3 pointsr/battlestations

Am a good friend, helped him pick out about 90% of this stuff.

Headphones are Sennheiser HD 598 special edition (the amazon exclusove ones), but those are discontinued, newest version are the HD 599

https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-HD-599-Open-Headphone/dp/B01L1IICR2

Mic is Blue Snowball USB
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Snowball-Microphone-Gloss-Black/dp/B002OO18NS

He also uses a FiiO e10k DAC for headphones also
https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2

u/spicedpumpkins · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

> is a sound card worth it in today's age?

NO.

Most games don't support Creative's proprietary sound like they used to in the old days.

Most modern mobo's have the basics to get you buy.

If you absolutely think you would benefit from external sound then at least get a portable DAC that you can use for other things/take with you.

My goto suggestion is usually Fiio E17K ALPEN 2 USB DAC Headphone Amplifier which when plugged in via USB will be recognized as a windows sound card, provides excellent sound for the price, has an electronic 3 band EQ and you have the benefit of unplugging it and taking it with you to power your cans on the go.

If you're stuck at 75 bucks then FiiO E10K USB DAC and Headphone Amplifier

Also, Creative software to this very day SUCKS. It is very rarely updated and sometimes does not play nice with when you try to use proprietary creative sound profiles within specific games.

I forgot what the specific profile was for "enhanced enemy footstep" detection but it muffled other game sounds that were really needed in Overwatch and in TF2.

Bottom line. Pass on this shit. There are better alternatives in the same price range.

u/Teerhand · 3 pointsr/audio

Hey mate, i hope this isn´t too late for some advice.

​

So first and foremost, congrats on a nice pair of cans. your motherboard has a dedicated audio solution, which shouldn´t be to bad in the first place, but to improve upon that i would recommend the fiio 10k

https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1543003652&sr=8-1&keywords=fiio+10k

it´s a pretty nice headphone amp/dac combo, which competes with a lot of pricier solutions, and for listening to music and gaming, you won´t find anything better under 200 bucks.

​

while the guy at the music store is technically correct, the sterling is of course a headphone amp as well, but as soon as he heard the words gaming and pc, he should have known this ain´t what you´re looking for...so return it, thats the wrong kind of device...you need a digital analogue converter, that has an amp integrated.

u/TR00Z3D · 3 pointsr/headphones

Get these, now.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=26-138-190

The SHP9500 are open, neutral, sharp and precise.

They are very, very comfortable and if need be, you can replace the pads.

Just search the subreddit and you will see people drooling about these cans.

They do not NEED amplification but greatly benefit from it. I recommend the FiiO E10k: http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2

P.S. They also have a removable cable, which is always nice to see.

Edit: While they are not wireless, they are the best bang-for-the-buck cans, at this very time in the 0 - 100 range. And for the time being, wireless is just a gimmick.

u/ppooiiuuyyttrreewwqq · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417173201&sr=8-2&keywords=fiio

Or if you're more on a budget, this will do but the quality will reflect the price. I'd go with he first one if at all possible.

u/TrueJudoka · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I bought the Fiio E10k a little while back. I love it, definite upgrade from the onboard audio. It's not too expensive and it suits it's purpose.

I don't have any experience with them, but I've seen a lot of Schiit set ups. There's a Schiit DAC on Amazon US right now for about $85. Definitely check out /r/audiophile and /r/headphones as well, utilise the resources they provide and you'll more than likely find what you're looking for.

u/ttelbarto · 3 pointsr/buildapcsalesuk

I feel like you could just run it from your motherboard but I'm not 100%. I bought one of these because I read the sound quality would be better and I didn't want to waste the headphones.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/FiiO-Olympus-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2

u/Erosis · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

Yeah, I have a fancy motherboard too (MSI Z170 Gaming M7) and it doesn't do it justice, but you're right. The DAC is usually the last thing you get to finish your setup and untrained ears might not notice anything. Headphone > Amp > DAC. If you get any hissing or electronic interference, then you especially might want to invest. Entry level DACs and Amps go for a minimum of $50 each and I would at minimum recommend this DAC/Amp combo.
I should also mention that headphones can have high impedance and you would need an amp to provide the gain necessary to reach your desired volumes. However, all of the headphones I've listed (and the 700X) have a low impedance and do not need the amp for volume. I regard anything lower than 40 ohms as low impedance.


Regarding virtualization, I typically avoid sound enhancements and spatial sound on Windows and let the applications speak for themselves. You're correct that the quality will depend on the game, but overall you don't have to worry with modern titles. The only game that I actually enjoy virtualization with is in Overwatch where Blizzard integrated Dolby Atmos. It lowers the quality of the sound, but does make spatial cues more discernible.

u/kronbison · 3 pointsr/headphones

This may be due to your on-board sound. Before spending, I would test out the headphones on a different PC/source. Make sure it isn't just the headphones themselves.

Then, when you are ready to buy, get an external dac/amp, basically an external sound card. Check out the Micca Origen($100), Fiio E10k($76), Monoprice Dac/Amp($80), and SMSL SD793-II($63).

u/Pat-Roner · 3 pointsr/audiophile

you could get a fiio e10k.

u/auralucario2 · 3 pointsr/headphones

If you want something inexpensive but powerful, look no further than the FiiO E10K. Especially since you have the 250 ohm edition, a decent amp is pretty much necessary.

As an aside, the DT990 are the complete opposite of flat. They are very v-shaped, with boosted bass and treble. Especially treble.

u/ShiftyAsylum · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I'm guessing the output from this (16-bit, 44.1k) isn't as good as your on-board sound. If you're serious about getting a nice pair of headphones, I would at least look into something like this or this. There's no point in spending cash on a good pair of cans when you're going to be putting a less than optimal signal through them.

>Edit: Updated SMSL link.

>Edit 2: Third option.

u/Jimmy0517 · 3 pointsr/Zeos

I finally got my X2's and wowow for gaming these are a must. Thank you for the recommend and videos. Wanted to follow up woth a questing regarding an AMP for my PC. The PC can drive the headphones with my onboard but for music via itunes or movies I can't get the level in volume i like which is generally loud. I know you mad an AMP video, but I was wondering if i get a USB amp like a AMP
There wouldn't be a problem using an AMP with a headset that also is using a mic? Would the microphone function still work if I have the headset plugged into an AMP?

u/miraculous- · 3 pointsr/diysound

I believe this satisfies your criteria.

This was my first dac/amp.
https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2

I still keep it for travel.
Will drive up to 250Ω.
Sounds fantastic too. Would recommend.

u/Itsthejoker · 3 pointsr/cscareerquestions

I can't wear earbuds for more than a few hours at a time, so I have Koss Porta Pros. Unbelievable sound in a very portable package, and I have them paired with a Fiio E10K that filters out any line weirdness. I used to have a shitty work laptop that had awful grounding, so the amp was super useful. Now I just use it because it sounds good :)

u/ggibby · 3 pointsr/headphones

Welcome the the Grado club - three actual Grados have passed through my collection, and three hybrids as well.
For tinkering and modding, there's nothing better, IMO.

I found several reasonable DAC/amp units that improved the ride, as it were.
My early favorite being the Fiio E10K - compact, USB-powered, not hard on the budget.
If you can leave it on the desk, the Massdrop O2 + SDAC DAC/Amp is a winner,
but beware of Massdrop - their temptation fu is strong. :-)

To do both DAC and DAP, lurk eBay for an iBasso DX90 - I never go anywhere without mine.


Agreed that they really shine with 'classic' production - late 60s to mid 80s analog path,
but also considerate modern artists like Spoon and Andrew Duhon,
maybe Isis and Animals as Leaders on the heavier side.

The folks at Head-fi.org have a couple opinions about the Brooklyn Sound, too.

u/Airsh · 3 pointsr/fireemblem

There are ways around the HDCP. I use [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004F9LVXC/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1) with my Elgato HD and it works great!

u/jimtsurugi · 3 pointsr/fireTV

FireTV (I think every version that exists these days) requires HDCP shortly after boot. I don't think they can be used at all with a display that doesn't support HDCP.

Assuming that this is the cause of your problem, my recommendation would be to buy something to sit between the FireTV and SCART adapter that will strip HDCP. I've heard rumor that this device will do it, but have not yet confirmed.

u/Stingray88 · 3 pointsr/applehelp

You can try using an "HDCP stripper" such as this. Essentially it's a device that will report back to your AppleTV as HDCP compatible, but the signal it sends out to your TV/monitor will lack HDCP altogether. It's not marketed as such, but that's what most people buy them for.

u/Frutes · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Why don't you just get one of these?

u/_31415_ · 3 pointsr/PS4

I just use a pair of over-the-ear headphones that I really like along with a Zalman mic and it works fine. Put them together with this and pop it right into the controller like a dedicated headset. Haven't had issues yet, and I can easily swap between open-backed headphones and closed-back headphones.

u/Kid_Xbox · 3 pointsr/xboxone

I'm very dumb with these things but shouldn't you be using it with something like this?

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-MUYHSMFF-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=cm_cd_ql_qh_dp_t

u/kmshadoze · 3 pointsr/xboxone

I would get a headset / adapter personally. I think you can get a much better deal. I got the Steelseries Siberia v2 with this spliter cable for the 2 3.5mm jacks, and the sound quality is AMAZING. For under $100 (headset, adapter, cable) these bad boys are well worth it. I even checked out the XO 4 and 7's as well as other various TB headsets (at gamestop) and imo the sound quality was not nearly as good. Not to mention having gamed for years I haev had a lot of freaking headsets in the past, these are sooooo comfortable you wont realize they are on (I fell asleep with them on last night listening to a movie and fiancee had to take them off me lol). They self adjust to fit your head (but not toooo snug and tight), the mic pops back into the earcup when dont need it, and the ear cups are HUGE, my ears are completely covered, it really dampers outside noise, with them on (not even listening to music) I can barely hear the person speaking thats next to me

u/OhSchmitt · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

Invest 30 bucks in this, not super loud but its good enough and its a third the price of the cheapest sena headset

Reciever Audio Only $16

Speakers $14

This is my setup and I love it only downside is no microphone but I usually ride alone so it doesn't matter to me

Edit: so I recently ordered these

Receiver Mic and Audio $20

Mic $5

Adapter $6

I'm trying to come up with a bluetooth calling set up if anyone is interested I can make a diy on how I put all this together, I will also report the quality of the new parts at a later date

u/CaCHooKaMan · 3 pointsr/xboxone
u/shoeyorkcity23 · 3 pointsr/xboxone

Buy the following:

  1. Lapel Microphone

  1. Mic/Heaphone Splitter

u/Otofon · 3 pointsr/PS4

It would need to be a TRRS, no?

Try this

u/dweller_12 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

The jack has both audio and mic on the same jack. In order to use both a headphone and a mic, you need a cable like this. This is not a splitter for two headphones, one is for a mic and one is for the headphones.

u/BossRSA · 3 pointsr/buildmeapc

Neither: Get an Audio-Technica M40x/M50x or Sennheiser HD 598 and an Antilion ModMic, both of which will beat the quality of the sound/microphone of the Astros. If you really want surround sound, you can use Razer Surround to virtualize it, similar to what the "gaming" headsets do. Also, if you only have one headphone jack free, you can use an adapter like this.

Hope this helps, and feel free to ask any questions!

u/celestiaequestria · 3 pointsr/DestinyTheGame

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SP0WAQ/

Get one of those. Go into your sound settings on your PS4 and set it to play all sounds through headset. Now you can plug in your existing stereo headphones and a PC microphone, or any stereo PC headset with normal stereo and mic plugs.

u/StonePotato · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Greetings all!

My main suggestion to anyone wanting to get into vaping it is to skip the ego-starter kits, MVP2 (cheapish Vv or Vw boxes), non-rebuildable tanks (Protanks, Nautilus) and just drive right into the mechanical mod / box mod world. I say this because the vaping experience is so much better with rebuildables. I went with the all of the above, and I personally wished that someone would’ve told me to just dive right in, because all that stuff is sitting around not being used. The people that I’ve talked to are typically hesitant to do so because of the coil building, but there are so many YouTube tutorials, suggestions and information on /r/RBA and /r/electronic_cigarette that it’s much easier than it seems. Anyway, if I were to start all over again, these are the things which I’d buy.

Must Haves
These are the things which I consider essential to starting off the on the right foot. I’ve purchased a lot of things, and these are the things which I suggest to my friends. Most of the links are from Amazon, because it’s what I’ve primarily used.

Battery - Sony VTC5
http://www.eciggity.com/2-pc-sony-18650vtc5-2600mah-30a-battery/

These are pretty much the standard when it comes to “safe” batteries. They’re affordable, good amp limit and have been recommended many times. If you purchase from the link above, they also give you a plastic carrying case!

Charger - Nitecore i2 or Nitecore i4
http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-IntelliCharger-i4-Battery-Charger/dp/B005UAI372/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404287334&sr=8-1&keywords=nitecore

Affordable, reliable and these won’t “overcharge” your batteries. The difference between the i2 and i4 is the amount of batteries they can charge at a single time. They also have a new fancier one out, called the Digicharger D2 and Digicharger D4. Those are nice because it has a LCD panel that displays a lot more information than the i2 and i4. I personally use an just an i2.

Mechanical Mod - Stingray
http://www.vaperoyalty.com/hcigar-stingray-mod-stainless-steel/

Now, 90% of what is suggested for an actual mechanical mod is going to be of personal taste. The Stingray is the “older brother” of the Nemesis. This is what I purchased when I first started out vaping. The unit is very easy to break apart, clean, has a locking ring, has a floating 510 connection and venting holes in case of a battery leak. Almost everyone I know has a Stingray.

Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer - Magma by Infinite
http://101vape.com/rebuildable-atomizers-tanks/309-magma-atomizer-clone-by-infinite.html

One of the best purchases I’ve made. The juice wells are very deep compared to everything else on the market (that doesn’t have a tank system). Threads are nice, easy to build on, post holes are large and the air-flow is easy to manipulate. You can run this on a single coil or a dual coil. Blows almost all the other RDAs I have out of the water. This is my main RDA.

Organic Cotton - Maxim Hygiene Products Organic Cotton Balls
http://www.amazon.com/Organic-Cotton-Balls-Triple-count/dp/B00E8T2X36/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1404288337&sr=8-3&keywords=organic+cotton

I suggest using un-bleached, organic cotton. Some people take it one step further by washing them, I think thats taking it a bit far and I don’t do it. You can pick them up from any convenience store or supermarket (CVS, Walgreens, Target, Whole Foods), a 100 count will last you AGES.

Kanthal - AWG A1 26 Gauge
http://www.amazon.com/Kanthal-Gauge-100ft-0-40386-Resistance/dp/B00HALND7Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404288659&sr=8-1&keywords=kanthal+26

I like to use 26g kanthal wire for my dual coil builds. 26g is a bit thicker than what a lot of people suggest (28g), but for me, because it’s thicker, it’s easier to work with.

Screwdrivers - Stanley 6 Piece Screwdriver set
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00009OYGV/ref=oh_details_o05_s01_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The screwdrivers which come with your RDAs are short, small and crappy. I like these screw drivers because they come in a variety of sizes and you do not need to mess with a drill-bit. What I really like about these, is at the end of the drill bit is a small little ledge (can’t think of a better word), where you can push your coil and scrunch it up a bit.

Ohm meter / Multimeter - Any generic ohm reader or Innova 3300
http://101vape.com/meters/170-ohms-meter.html

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O1X65A/ref=oh_details_o02_s01_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can use a multimeter to do basically the same thing as an ohm reader. The multimeter has an added benefit of being able to read the volts are your battery as well. I have both, but I prefer to use a “regular” ohm reader. This video below can teach you how to use a multimeter for that purpose.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wgXAmPBAO5g&index=2&list=LLU7AM2JUxXCrj4TSCDQDffw

Optional items
Things that I’ve purchased that you can probably substitute with something in your house. They’re nice to have, most people have these, but I decided to link these anyway, because I didn’t have some stuff (my scissors were too large).

Scissors - Generic surgical scissors
http://www.amazon.com/Amercian-Diagnostic-Corporation-3425-Stainless/dp/B000GHIUR2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1404289491&sr=8-5&keywords=surgical+scissors

To cut your cotton. Small, sharp and gets the job done.

Tweezers - Ceramic tweezers
http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10007588/1655800-heat-resistant-stainless-steel-tweezers-for-e

Allows you to hold your coil together and torch them without heating up the tweezers.

Wire cutters - Hakko CHP-170
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPDG1K/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For cutting your kanthal off that spool!

Atomizer holder - Plano 23630-01
http://www.amazon.com/Plano-23630-01-Stowaway-Adjustable-Dividers/dp/B000E3FKVC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1404289861&sr=8-4&keywords=plano

You’re gonna buy a bunch of atomizers. Everyone buys a bunch. You’re not going to be able to help yourself. I use this plastic case to keep everything neat and separated.

Building deck - Tenderfoot Stands
https://www.facebook.com/tenderfoot.stands?fref=ts

You don’t need this. But it makes building RDAs easier. You can also place your juice filled RDAs on here.

Torch - Mini Jet Flame 503
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007A9YSPW/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This will help you get those coils nice and tight, without having to fire off your mechanical mod.

Battery Case - Bluecell
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q6PJO8/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you don’t buy the batteries from the link above, you’re gonna want a battery case. Do not keep your batteries loose in your pocket or floating around your bag. They can come in contact with something metal and potentially damage the battery.

u/groverAlthouse · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

IMO

Best

Bang for the buck

Worst - anything with "fire" in the name.

u/d4rch0n · 3 pointsr/Vaping

Make sure you have a charger that stops charging when it's complete:

https://www.amazon.com/Version-NITECORE-i4-Intellicharge-Charger/dp/B005UAI372

Most people will probably tell you to just buy new batteries, but if it's just simple wrap damage:

https://www.imrbatteries.com/2-meters-pvc-shrink-tubing-for-18650-batteries-clear/

Pretty easy to rewrap them. Plus, you can print out your own custom designs

u/nrhinkle · 3 pointsr/bikecommuting

There are many different replacement battery packs sold online, but I'm somewhat wary of any of them. Any which has 4 cells isn't going to be trustworthy unless it has a charging circuit built in to the battery pack, because you need to monitor the voltage of each battery cell individually and essentially charge each battery separately to be safe. Few if any budget battery packs will do that.

I would go the route of finding a decent case and then using your own 18650 batteries. That gives you control over what batteries you use, and lets you replace them on the go or over time as the eventually wear out.

For a case, something like the Fenix BA4C or this random case from Amazon should work. Then add 2x or 4x protected 18650 batteries.

For the batteries, I'd go with KeepPower 3400 mAh or the 2600 mAh ones if you don't need as much runtime. They use genuine Panasonic cells with a protection circuit, and are highly favored by /r/flashlight. Other trustworthy brands include Olight, Fenix, and Nitecore. Make sure you're buying from a legitimate distributor though; there are lots of fakes on eBay and Amazon.

A good charger would be the Nitecore i2 or i4.

u/JackofTrades92 · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

I haven't heard about that battery charger that comes with the kit, but a nitecore i4 is probably the most recommended charger on ECR right now.

If you want to get some cheap kanthal wire, you can get it off Ebay for cheap. I got like 100ft of kanthal for $8 off ebay.

There's my two cents.

u/XtremeGnomeCakeover · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette
u/santanzchild · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

If its new get a refund these batteries arnt a joke one of them goes it can potentially mess you up or even burn your house down.

http://www.amazon.com/NiteCore-IntelliCharge-i4-2nd-generation/dp/B005UAI372/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369430275&sr=8-1&keywords=i4+charger

something along these lines is what you want.

u/evilkorn · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Here is a good charger

What batteries do you have now for your evic? If you want to use it in short mode check out AW or Efest 18350's.

u/Xanimal13 · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

I ordered a NiteCore IntelliCharger tonight :) 20 bucks shipped!

u/Olgaar · 3 pointsr/hometheater

Your headphones can receive an RCA connection?? Reminds me of a line from a movie...

Westley: I mean, if we only had a wheelbarrow, that would be something.
Inigo Montoya: Where we did we put that wheelbarrow the albino had?
Fezzik: Over the albino, I think.
Westley: Well, why didn't you list that among our assets in the first place?

You could use that one from Best Buy or a Fiio D3K Taishan (that's a pretty standard optical to RCA DAC).

Exactly which headphones do you have??

u/asdf4455 · 3 pointsr/headphones

I have no idea whether or not it would damage the headphones or if it would even really work, but I'm curious if you have a standalone DAC or DAC/AMP. usually any noise you get from headphones on your computer would be caused by interference in the motherboards on-board audio. If you don't have a dac or dac/amp, consider getting one as it might just eliminate the noise you experience without having to use a device like this. You can get a cheap standalone dac like this or this. Now, idk what version of the DT770 you have, but if it more than the 32 Ohm, you could also consider getting a cheaper DAC/AMP combo from SMSL or FiiO.

u/Lord_Glarfbag · 3 pointsr/pcgaming

$20 at Amazon for one of these https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS - fixes problems with hum/buzzing you may get from using the analog 3.5mm output.

u/ctfrommn · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Fantastic, you have a Toslink out. If you have issues with noise or hum from that, which I dont think you will, you can just use a cheap DAC like this....

https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495736501&sr=8-1&keywords=Fiio+dac

and run from the digital (Toslink out) to the DAC then the RCA outs on the DAC to the CD (or whatever) input on the receiver. I know it sounds complicated, but its really simple. You will only need 1 or 2 cables depending on the setup.

u/DosParkers · 3 pointsr/Rockband

In the video he is using a HDMI splitter to split the signal into two and then converting one of them into analog audio using a DAC (Digital-to-Analog-Converter). However, you can skip the HDMI splitter because, fortunately for us, the consoles already split the signal for us. It's called TOSLINK or optical out. This signal is output with near 0ms delay (cannot get any quicker output). Now we just need to convert it to an analog signal. Fortunately again, most sound receivers do this for you (most will have a optical audio input) and they do it with very good audio delay (it takes a few ms to convert from digital to analog). The issue arises when you don't have a sound receiver and you instead use the TV's built-in DAC. In almost all cases, they are the cheapest DAC the TV manufacturer can find and the audio is ran through several built-in filters before being output (adding quite a bit of audio delay). So here are your scenarios and solutions.

  1. Sound receiver (external soundbar or stereo receiver) - Use an optical audio cable ($5-$10) and run it from the console directly into the sound receiver. If you are using a sound receiver, it will have a "Direct" mode. You need to enable that to bypass the sound filters (which increases lag). Most sound bars do not have this feature but the filters they apply are much less extensive and therefore much less lag inducing.
  2. No sound receiver (built in TV speakers) - Buy a cheap external DAC (Fiio D3 for $20 is a very good choice) and run an optical audio cable directly from the console into the DAC and then a red/white (analog RCA) cable directly from the DAC into the TV.

    I would highly recommend #1 over #2. You can pick up a decent sound bar for $80+ and it will blow your mind compared to the TV's built-in speakers. I personally own this one and it's not even comparable to the TV's speakers. It also allows you to connect your Bluetooth devices directly to it wirelessly and use headphones by plugging them directly into the sound bar.

    Hope this helped!

    edit:


  • Did some testing for you and pulled out my Fiio D3 and did optical direct from console and then used headphones plugged into the Fiio. My audio lag for guitar was +10ms from the video lag (0ms, TV in game-mode). This would also be comparable to Direct Stereo Mode in a sound receiver. Maybe another +10ms.
  • The sound bar is around +60ms. Which is extremely fast for it running the audio through a sound filter (to make it sound better / it doesn't have any kind of direct stereo mode). (I need to test this more later though.)
u/polypeptide147 · 3 pointsr/audiophile
u/Tcsailer · 3 pointsr/CFBOffTopic

I have [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Food-Lab-Cooking-Through-Science/dp/0393081087) and I love it. It uses science to explain why to do things and I need that kind of thing otherwise I'll doubt it.

u/thergoat · 3 pointsr/cookingforbeginners

My recommendations:

Videos:

  1. Tasty videos! They’re short, so you can binge a bunch, but they’re also straightforward and usually on the simpler side. https://youtu.be/zcOsz-dHFe0

  2. “Food Wishes” on YouTube. I’ve been watching them for over a decade - lighthearted, fun learning that takes you step by step through TONS of dishes. I cook almost daily, and I can credit this guy for most of my inspiration. https://www.youtube.com/user/foodwishes

  3. Binging with Babish & Basics with Babish. Similar to good wishes, but a little more laid back (which is an accomplishment) and a bit higher production quality IMO. https://www.youtube.com/user/bgfilms

  4. Bon Apetit! Also YouTube. So many fun personalities, everyone has different specialties, it’s like learning from experts that feel like your friends. Carla & Molly have the best recipes and explanations IMO, but they’re all wonderful. https://www.youtube.com/user/BonAppetitDotCom

    Websites/Books:

    These are more advanced, but Serious Eats (google it) never lets you down when it comes to recipes, but they’re definitely more involved (hours to days).

    One of the serious eats writers, J. Kenji Lopez-Alt is a PhD Biologist (I think biology...) who wrote The Food Lab. This man is the god of cooking. 100% scientifically and experimentally tested, this book will teach you everything you ever need to know about cooking and then some. HIGHLY recommend getting a copy. The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science https://www.amazon.com/dp/0393081087/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DgUuDb85KVPJ8

    Finally, if you don’t want to drop $20 (it’s dropped by ~60% since I bought it! Definitely get a copy!!!) on that, but want to be healthy and learn easy, flavor packed recipes, pick up a copy of The Thug Kitchen. It’s vegan, but the skills are useful anywhere and I’ve yet to find anyone - carnivores included - that’s disliked a single recipe. I got a copy for myself, my girlfriend, a good friend of mine, and my brother.

    Thug Kitchen: The Official Cookbook: Eat Like You Give a F*ck (Thug Kitchen Cookbooks) https://www.amazon.com/dp/1623363586/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_miUuDb8363PR2
u/FriendlyEngineer · 3 pointsr/Cooking

Well, on the extreme side, "The Professional Chef" textbook I believe is the one used by the culinary institute of America. I picked one up off Amazon for $36 just for the hell of it. It's really interesting and reads more like an academic text than a cook book. It can be quite intense though.

A much more popular choice and a much easier read would be "The Food Lab" by Kenji Lopez-Alt who is a writer for serious eats. The book has plenty of recipes but does an unbelievably amazing job explaining the science and reasoning behind the choices that are made as well as various "experiments" that kenji does to answer cooking questions. It definitely teaches technique and really helps put you in the right "mindset" for cooking without a recipe.

Here are links to both.

https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Chef-Culinary-Institute-America/dp/0470421355

https://www.amazon.com/Food-Lab-Cooking-Through-Science/dp/0393081087

u/SumoSizeIt · 3 pointsr/intj

I suggest The Food Lab and Serious Eats, by J. Kenji López-Alt

u/Cats4Lunch · 3 pointsr/Pizza

Why not?

The recipe I'm referring to is nothing but salt & pepper, a roasting pan with a rack, and all day, really low and slow. Amazing how well that came out.

u/bc2zb · 3 pointsr/fatlogic

I could and it's a pipe dream of mine. However, the author of the original recipe has quite a collection already, and has already published such a cook book.

u/Thisismyfoodacct · 3 pointsr/Cooking

I dig you're enthusiasm but you're asking a broad question!

I'd recommend the following books to help answer your questions:

On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of The Kitchen

https://www.amazon.com/dp/0684800012

The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking through Science

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0393081087

u/kaidomac · 3 pointsr/cookingforbeginners

part 2/2

Second, there are ways to take a more cost-effective approach. I always bring up the physics example of the apple falling on Newton's head, which made him realize gravity existed, and then he dedicated his whole life to figuring out the formula for gravity; then you saunter up to science class one day, learn F=ma, and that's that! Likewise, a lot of smart & persistent people have worked hard to create formulas for food, called recipes, which you can try & learn & get good results at simply by following their step-by-step checklist.

Part of getting good at cooking is learning the underlying tools, technique, and knowledge required for flavor combinations, food pairings, spice mixes, cooking methods, etc., but part of it is also just burning through a bunch of recipes & getting exposure to good results & to various processes, without having to master every single one right off the bat & then think up new ways to use them. So in addition to learning how to cook in general, I'd also recommend simply following a bunch of recipes initially, rather than trying to re-invent the wheel, which can help you get better results initially, simply because you have proven instructions to follow! There are a million great resources for doing this; I'll share just a few here:

  • Website: Serious Eats: Most recipes are split into a detailed explanation & then a separate page for the recipe itself. Excellent learning resource!
  • Book: The Food Lab: By Kenji of the Serious Eats website. This is a really excellent book to learn cooking step-by-step, complete with full-color pictures & detailed explanations.
  • Website: ChefSteps: An excellent resource for detailed recipes from the company that makes the Joule sous-vide machine (note that not all recipes are sous-vide!)
  • Show: Good Eats with Alton Brown (on TV or available to purchase online); lots of detailed walkthroughs & tribal knowledge shared in each episode.
  • Book: Modern Sauces: 150 sauces, plus great explanations to build up your knowledge about sauces. One thing I've realized over time is that most restaurants create amazing flavor through their sauces, whether it's something as basic as Big Mac sauce at McDonald's or a super fancy steak sauce at an elegant, high-end restaurant.
  • Show: "Wok Star" by Eleanor Ho: She teaches a fantastic, recipe-free workflow for creating stir-fry dishes using a wok & a hi-heat portable burner. Note that you can buy the discs (which are just simple recordings of her classes) & printed materials separately from the wok & burner if you already have the tools. She's put together a really great system for teaching wok cooking, so if you're interested in learning the "flowchart" for quick & healthy meals using the stir-fry method, this is the best resource I've ever come across!

    Third, it helps to have some good introductions to the different aspects of food. Here's a few links to read to help kick-start your education process:

  • Basic cooking advice & approach
  • How to cook a chicken breast so it's good every time
  • A quick discussion about "master" recipes
  • Introduction to spices
  • How our bodies works in relation to food & a bit more on food & exercise
  • A quick introduction to complete foods
  • My approach to meal prep & a bit more information on the Look Book
  • Some tips for getting organized in your kitchen (kitchen part specifically is a few posts down)

    Anyway, learning how to cook can definitely be discouraging & can absolutely be a money-drain, because you're going to have to make a lot of mistakes, due to the learning process, and make also a lot of just plain mediocre food before you start hitting some home-runs. I'd recommend making sure that you have a recipe storage system for capturing the recipes & workflows you really like.

    I'd also recommend adopting the "growth" mindset when it comes to cooking, because it's easy to quit in the face of setbacks & label yourself as a terrible cook or view cooking at home as hard or dumb or whatever. If you look at cooking from a big-picture perspective, you're going to be alive until you die, and you've gotta eat every day, so imo at least, it's totally worth learning how to cook so that you can save money & enhance the enjoyability of each meal that you cook while you can!

    I think part of that is just accepting that it's going to take some time & practice (and money) as you grow & develop your skills, your personal recipe database, and the various workflows available for things like making breads or grilling or stir-frying or whatever you want to dive into. Probably the best way to save money, at this point in your cooking education, is to find & follow top-rated recipes. Pinterest has a pretty good algorithm for bubbling up really good recipes, so if you type in "chocolate-chip cookie" into the Pinterest search & try a recipe (exactly as printed, step-by-step) on the first page of results, then you're likely to get much better results than just winging it...while also building up your cooking skills in the process & getting that background knowledge & hands-on time required to get better at cooking!
u/MarrusAstarte · 3 pointsr/FoodPorn

I picked up most of my (mediocre but useful) cooking skills primarily from Serious Eats, ChefSteps, and more recently Chef John on YouTube.

The recently published Food Lab book is a great reference as well.

Also, don't be afraid to practice. Most of the time with food, even if you don't get it perfect, you'll have something edible, and you can use the experience of making something less than perfect as a step towards making it better.

u/murphtim · 3 pointsr/Cooking

Food Lab is LEGIT! been following Kenji on SeriousEats.com for a long time. Saw his book for the first time last weekend at B&N. $50 in the store!?! I just ordered it this morning on Amazon Prime for $30

https://www.amazon.com/Food-Lab-Cooking-Through-Science/dp/0393081087/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8

u/Chef-horse · 3 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

If you are trying to cook more at home, nigh I suggest this book. The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science https://www.amazon.com/dp/0393081087/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iDF2DbDDN8EAF

u/WeShouldHaveKnown · 3 pointsr/Cooking

There is a cookbook called the food lab which is really great. It explains the science behind making things extra delicious and the recipes in that book are really good "every day" ones not necessarily project meals. Highly recommended.

u/357Magnum · 3 pointsr/Cooking

The Food Lab

It is a very thick book with lots of full color photos, and tons of good info. The only problem that I've had with it so far is that, for as much as he talks about precision in the variables, he doesn't seem to give enough info in the recipes, which is always the problem I have with written recipes. For example, I tried his technique for soft boiled eggs, and it doesn't specify the starting temp of the eggs. He says the best method is to put cold eggs into the boiled water. But when I did this, using the cooking times provided, my egg was still almost completely raw. I think the problem is that my eggs came right out of the fridge. Had they been room temp to start, 40 degrees warmer, it probably would have worked. But honestly, most people keep eggs in the fridge, so I think the onus should have been on him to make that clear. I have yet to try with room temp eggs to see if his numbers are close to accurate. But when I read "put cold eggs in hot water" I took that to mean cold, not room temp.

The second thing I tried out of the book was the Prime Rib technique. He says to cook it at your oven's lowest setting (in my case, 200F), until the internal temp is 120, then rest for 30 minutes, then sear at 500-550 at the end. He says it takes 4-5 hours at 200. But again, I was making this for lunch, so I was starting at 7am. But of course, my roast came right out of the fridge. So long story short, I had to crank the temp up to 350 to get it to finish roasting by lunchtime, so the slow cook method was not accomplished. Again, had my roast started at room temp, it would have probably worked better, but that wasn't explicitly stated.

I wonder if I need to assume that everything is at room temp to start. If that is just considered dogmatic in cooking or something I was not aware. I read the whole intro, and while he does say that nothing in the book is gospel due to the many variables, I would think that the emphasis on the exactness of temperature, the home cook target audience, and the use of thermometers should at least give some attention to the subject of starting temperature. I might find the answer as I read more of the book. But anyway, I still think it is a great book, and I'm sure the techniques are valid, I just can't hope to get everything right the first try.

u/ChrissiTea · 3 pointsr/seriouseats

To save any other British people the sudden disappointment I just felt - it's only 20% off on amazon.co.uk.

Still not that bad of a price though, I guess...

u/kristephe · 3 pointsr/Cooking

I'd definitely recommend Samin's book Salt Fat Acid Heat! Rather than just recipes, it teaches you the fundamentals of recipe creation and cooking. Kenji's The Food Lab is also an awesome contribution.

u/Dial-1-For-Spanglish · 3 pointsr/Cooking

Yes - likely ANYTHING with Kenji López-Alt.
0
I just bought his book, The Food Lab, and it's six pounds of 'just as fantastic as his work at seriouseats.com'.

u/The_Zeus_Is_Loose · 3 pointsr/ketorecipes

/r/seriouseats has a ton of good info on cooking. I also recommend The Food Lab book. I have bought a few now as gifts. /u/J_Kenji_Lopez-Alt is also seen around Reddit and has been super helpful a few times in answering tweets about certain recipes within a few hours. (Not sure if I am supposed to publicize that last part.)

u/MagicShoe · 3 pointsr/xboxone

I've got nothing better to do so I'm going to put a lot of info here just incase anyone else comes across this thread with a similar problem. I'm assuming that you are switching back to a monitor which is why you're asking.
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Connecting PC speakers to TV (Kinda pointless just saying)

[For RCA Output] http://www.turtlebeach.com/product-detail/cables-parts/35mm-female-to-rca-stereo-splitter-cable/99

||OR||

[For 3.5MM output] http://www.amazon.com/BlueRigger-3-5mm-Female-Stereo-Audio/dp/B007ZIBURC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395552003&sr=8-1&keywords=3.5mm+male+to+female

----------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------------------------------------------------

[Connecting console to monitor with audio out on the same cable]

(HDMI to DVI with audio out) http://www.amazon.com/Converter-Audio-external-Needed-DA-HVNP/dp/B00BPX13D4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395552345&sr=8-1&keywords=hdmi+to+dvi+with+audio

||OR The Long Way||

You can mix these two adapters to get audio out and still use an hdmi cable by itself.

Using this:

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink/dp/B001TH7GSW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395552883&sr=8-1&keywords=optical+cable

Connect it to this:

(S/PDIF [Optical Out] to RCA) http://www.amazon.com/SANOXY%C2%AE-AGPtek-Digital-Optical-Converter/dp/B005DIRI6I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395552748&sr=8-1&keywords=spdif+to+rca

THEN connect the female rca from that small box to this:

http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395552852&sr=8-1&keywords=rca+to+3.5mm+female

Then connect your speaker's 3.5mm male cable to the female 3.5mm cable.

u/4567890 · 3 pointsr/Android

A2DP is the name for steaming stereo Bluetooth audio. Android is setup as a sender of audio, not a receiver.

Your best bet would be to buy an A2DP receiver (like $50) and hook that up to your speaker system. They'll probably come with a 3.5mm jack but you can change that to RCA audio (the red/white plugs) with an adapter. You'll also want to get one that uses a power cord (usually usb) instead of batteries. I had a setup like this in my car, it worked great, like magic.

For instance:

A2PD Receiver (This is what I used, don't worry about the branding =P)

Mini USB power cord

3.5mm to RCA Audio Adapter (If you need it)

Total is ~$50

u/TheJon93 · 3 pointsr/letsplay

Headphones. plug these into the back of your tv, then you can plug in your headphones.

u/Shmutt · 3 pointsr/patientgamers

Hmm let me try later at home. I bought a Turtle Beach wireless headset recently. It's meant for PS3 and X360 but I've been only using it on my PC.

EDIT:

Just looked through the manual and Google. Yup, the PS3 cannot transmit game audio via bluetooth. My wireless headset has a unit that plugs into the PS3 via optical cable and then transmit it over the 5Ghz range.

There's also a simple male-to-female Y-converter if you don't want a female-to-female converter.

u/rivalarrival · 3 pointsr/DIY

like this?

Search for '3.5mm to RCA' for more options.

Edit: Changed the link to the female version of the adapter.

u/omers · 3 pointsr/Beatmatch

That sounds like a great setup to me. The DDJ-SB is fast becoming one of the main recommendations for those looking to go the Serato/Pioneer route and Sennheiser makes fantastic headphones with their iconic HD-25s being essentially an industry standard... While I've never used the HD6s I've seen good reviews and that blue is mighty sexy... :D

While computer speakers aren't the best for DJing they're better than nothing for practice at home. You'll need an adapter to go from the RCA master out on the DDJ-SB to the 1/8" TRS connector of the speakers though... This: http://www.amazon.ca/30S1-01260-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-Connector/dp/B000I23TTE

(You will of course also need a laptop or computer.)

u/Kennertron · 3 pointsr/rocksmith

You would probably want something like this RCA to headphone adapter then you can use any headphones you like.

I have a crappy pair of Behringer headphones I got with a practice amp kit I had bought early on in my guitar learnings, but here's some Sennheisers that look pretty nice.

Works with anything that has RCA audio out.

u/rickybobbyeverything · 3 pointsr/CarAV

if you're trying to connect a 3.5mm jack to RCA you can use an adapter: https://www.amazon.com/30S1-01260-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-Connector/dp/B000I23TTE

u/Freezerburn · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Yep Schhiit dac and amp are fantastic and the HE400 is as well. Can't go wrong with that combo!


Schitt Modi


Hifiman HE-400

Getting into magnetic planar speakers will get you into a whole other class of audio.

Magnetic planar speakers love power so a Magni wouldn't be bad either but that's over the $500 mark but it's not really required. Also the modi have rca outputs so you'll need something like this http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B000I23TTE

EDIT:Skip the modi and just get a Fiio E10 Sorry screwed up on the dac deal but the HE-400 is still worthy by and the Fiio E10 will perform as a good dac and amp.

I agree with pagonda, I'd return them.

u/squidwalk · 3 pointsr/PS3

The old-fashioned idea is for you to employ a 2 x RCA Male / 1 x 3.5mm Stereo Female, so you can take your stereo sound and plug some headphones into it. It seems like your TV doesn't have any proper audio out for it, so you'll have to use ones straight from the PS3.

u/tcookc · 3 pointsr/audioengineering

you'll need an additional headphone amp/splitter to get more than two hp-out on any affordable interface.

u/Boloar · 3 pointsr/diyaudio

Pretty much the easiest way is a single Bluetooth receiver, connected to the input of an audio splitter (preferably a powered one, such as a multi-headphone amp like this) sending copies of the received audio to the separate devices. There are currently no completely wireless solutions to having truly synchronized audio sent to multiple outputs - at least not available for the common man. It's a topic of much research.

u/japaul32 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I would recommend a pair of HD 598's and a headphone amp. Or the AKG k701/q701.

I own the HD558, and Beyerdynamic DT770 Pro, and I use them in conjuction with a Schiit Magni. My favourite for comfort and overall audio quality is the HD558. If I want some more bass in my music I switch to the DT770 Pro.

Take a look at this

Edit: I'm assuming you're using onboard audio. If so, take a look at a amp/dac combo like this

Edit2: You guys in the UK get some great prices. Here's the DT990 Pro. Definitely want to get a headphone amp with this guy.

u/explosivo563 · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Depends on your price range. Check out fiio dacs for entry level. Schiit modi and magni for mid/higher level. There are many options for dacs and amp/dac combos. I use the e10k which is an entry level amp/dac.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LP3AMC2?pc_redir=1413260811&robot_redir=1

u/ZeM3D · 3 pointsr/headphones

Pads are easy to replace. These should fit and not alter the sound too much.

u/ItsFoxBit · 3 pointsr/HyperX
u/poonedundies · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

I have these and I love them. The sound quality is pretty decent. No issues hearing anything or with my friends hearing me. In audio lag either. The one thing I will recommend is changing the ear pad. The new pads help change the sound and provide a ton more comfort.

https://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Replacement-Memory-Foam-Earpads/dp/B00MFDT894/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=brainwavz&qid=1557054224&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&th=1

u/noteandcolor · 3 pointsr/xboxone

I've owned several over this generation. Turtle Beach XO Seven, Microsoft Stereo Headset, Astro A40, Sennheiser Game One, HyperX Cloud II, Plantronics RIG 800LX SE, HyperX Cloud Alpha, and beyerdynamic MMX 300. I keep coming back to the Cloud Alpha. $100, and it's the perfect blend of sound quality, comfort, and simple controls. I went a little further and added $30 Brainwavz HM5 earpads. Can't recommend it enough.

An audiophile's review of the Cloud Alpha: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GDeI4t7sR4g

u/qfews · 3 pointsr/headphones

Here are the main parts:

Bluetooth receiver - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008AGQMQC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3.5 jack - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C3RFHDC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

side button - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LYZSEVB/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You could probably find cheaper options. I just bought a lot because there wasn't really any tutorials out there on doing this. Other stuff you would need are a soldering iron, a dremel, and some wires, Also, please get better earcups if you haven't already - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MFDT894/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here are the internals: https://imgur.com/gallery/N91espA

u/NessInOnett · 3 pointsr/headphones

I have the m50x with the Brainwavz HM5 pads. The difference in comfort is night and day. The default pads on the m50x hurt like hell after about an hour of wear for me. The HM5 pads are little heavenly pillows. Sadly, the bass really suffers.. and I had to ramp it up a bit in software to compensate. Using mine with a Fiio E10k, even with bass boost enabled, it isn't enough to balance things out back to stock.

u/thisisnotjr · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

For those that have big ear and head. Here are the the [Brainwavz Earpads] (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MFDT894/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) that should work well with these.

From personal experience, the padding's are a must for any pair of headphones. They're just so comfy.

Edit: Check the additional promotion underneath the price. There should be an additional 15% when you purchase one or more of the padding.

u/GusIsBoosted · 3 pointsr/headphones

The only real answer:http://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Velor-Memory-Replacements-Earpads/dp/B00MFDX4YO

its a bit of a pain to put them on properly.
But I did it to my older set of HD598s and it brought them back to life.

Definitely recommend these ear pads for the 598.

u/pirate_starbridge · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

Have tried both - the fuzzy versions of these are so much more comfortable IMO - subjective of course, but with the fuzz you don't get ever sweaty, they breathe.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MFDX4YO

u/Jiffe_The_Pleb_King · 3 pointsr/LivestreamFail

They are actually amazing if you replace the pads with these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MFDX4YO

u/heavymcd · 3 pointsr/rocksmith

I’ll assume by “lag” you mean the latency between when you strum and when the note sounds. If you simply mean the difference between when the note sounds and when it crosses the line on the TV, that can be adjusted in video settings.

Latency, however, and only be fixed in hardware (at least in the context of Rocksmith on XB1).

First, let’s talk about latency. I forget the actual cutoff, but somewhere around 100ms is the point at which your brain will “notice” that the sound of your strum is lagging behind your action of strumming. As long as you can get it under your threshold of perception, you’ll usually be fine. But once it’s over, you’re screwed.

Latency stacks. So every step that adds latency is the enemy. There is latency in the real-tone cable (and indeed any digital interface). There’s latency in the Xbox, as it takes your tone, applied your amp and effect sims, and then sends it out to the optical output. Further, there’s latency in whatever digital to optical converter you plug that optical into. Plus there will be even more latency if that amplifier or sound bar is doing any fancy audio effects (like surround or simulated surround). And if you’re running HDMI to a TV? Fuhgeddabout it. I think that step alone adds like 80ms. You won’t notice it when watching Stranger Things, but Rocksmith will always suck.

So what can you eliminate? On Xbox One, here’s the best you can do (XB360 has analog outputs so you can do a bit better):

Xbox->DAC->Analog Amp

Turn literally every possible effect on that amp off, or even better buy one that doesn’t have any to begin with. Just a stupid dumb analog stereo amplifier. The latency will be gone, or rather it’ll be less than the perception threshold.

Some home theater amps have an option somewhere you can set to get pure unprocessed stereo audio. My friend’s has a single button you can hit for analog inputs that’ll do it. But first things first I’d try to somehow get the setup above going, and see if it fixes your problem.

For the DAC, I use this one with my (optical only) PC:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009346RSS/

That’s a FiiO D3 DAC. Does nothing but turn SPDIF audio over optical into RCA/3.5mm analog. It adds about as little latency as possible. Plug literally any “dumb” computer speakers into it...I’m talking $10 no-frills simple amplified speakers. You should hear no lag. Verify this.

Now, if you then still get lag when you run that DAC’s output into your sound bar, then your sound bar is the problem. Figure out if you can turn off all the processing (surround, SRS, basically any effects at all). If you can’t? Go to Goodwill and get a cheap stereo amp for like $30. And some cheap speakers to match. That’s what I did. Cheap Sony amp with a remote, no surround, only two speakers out and stereo inputs. But it gets the job done.

Good luck!

This is an issue on PC too, btw. It’s just that most PCs, unlike Xbox, have analog outputs. And many users are also using analog speakers, not crazy sound bars and such. So the usual problem hardware isn’t present.

u/EmLeingod · 3 pointsr/howto

This is what you want to get audio to your speakers, it's called a DAC, (better, more expensive options are available, but that's the best you're gonna do for under $100 lol) and this is the cable to connect the two devices (you'll also need RCA cables)

This will get you video to your projector.

Unfortunately since it looks like you're using powered monitors, you'll need a pre-amp to control the volume.

You may be thinking wow that's a lot of stuff, and it doesn't even come with a remote! And you're absolutely right. Unfortunately, the only thing that does all that is a full blow receiver, which get quite expensive and are usually aimed at surround sound systems. Most receivers don't like powered monitors though, so you'd have to get a very special one.

This is where you realize that passive speakers are what you really want, and you blow hundreds of dollars on speakers and equipment and you become an audiophile. Luckily there's a bunch of guides to get you started over on /r/zeos. But the stuff I listed earlier should let you jerry-rig a working set up while you save up :P

u/graffiti81 · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Hcigar Nemesis 2 tone (add the magnets) $37
Hcigar TOBH $25
Sony VTC5 x2 $20
Nitecore i2 $12
25' Kanthal 1A 28ga $6
Cotton balls from CVS $3

$109 for everything (maybe plus some shipping) and you're buying from a company that inspects every piece before shipping it, you're using high quality batteries (which will easily handle down to 0.2Ω) and a charger that won't burn your house down.

u/salpara · 3 pointsr/flashlight

I haven't yet bought a flashlight that runs on 18650's because I can't find a charger that I trust. I was looking at a Nitecore charger on Amazon and in the reviews someone shows that it [caught fire!] (https://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-i2-Intellicharge-Charger-Battery/dp/B0096U26QQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465498976&sr=8-1&keywords=18650+charger) Most of them look pretty shady to me, honestly.

What's considered the safest of these chargers? I'm not willing to risk a fire in my home where my wife and two children are for a cool flashlight. I understand the appeal of the 18650's, but I might just stick with AA and AAA's.

u/Virisenox_ · 3 pointsr/whatisthisthing
u/squired · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Dude, $100 is a lot if you go for clones. Except for those with 'authentics', all of our rigs are well under $100.

Here is what I setup for my brother:

4nine - $21.51

Kayfun Lite Plus V2 - $30.02

Nitecore i2 Charger - $11.79

18350 Purple Efest Battery - $4.24 each w/ 'ISPower' Coupon

28g Kanthal - $5.45

Bag of Cotton Balls - $3

_____

Total: $66.01

...and that's a REALLY nice setup. You could get away with half that and still have a great setup.

u/DrGigawatt · 3 pointsr/vaporents
u/not_a_krustykrab · 3 pointsr/18650masterrace
u/Metal_Gear_Vaper · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

I'm glad to hear that you were able to switch it out.

I do recommend you pick up an extra battery, and an external battery charger. Its much safer that way. I never trust any mod to charge my batteries

Here is a good cheapish external charger you could pick up
http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-i2-Intellicharge-Charger-Battery/dp/B0096U26QQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1452976936&sr=8-4&keywords=18650+charger

u/lolwutalan · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

I own a Sigelei #8w and love it.
I have the 18650 tube, but if you went with the 18350 tube, you'll just need one single battery. The top cap has a screw that you can loosen/tighten if your battery rattles inside.
I was able to use the mod right out of the box, and I have had it for a little over a month, and no misfires at all. For some time, I was annoyed that my RBAs wouldn't sit flush with the mod, but I later found that above the battery screw was another bolt I could loosen or tighten to get my RBA to sit flush.
As far as chargers, Nitecore makes a fantastic charger.

u/EcrThrowaway · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Amazon

What size batteries are you using? Also, your location would probably help find a place to order that is nearby.

u/ride4daze · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

I personally use the Panasonic 3400 and get great battery life out of it. I think 3 days. Batteries charge so quick that I never really even notice. But at least 2 or 3 and have a rotation. Don't forget the charger. My recomendation. There is also one that has 4 spots for batteries but it is really unncessary in my opinion. I wish I got the camo as well since the fingerprint magnet is mildly infuriating.

u/bizzy11 · 3 pointsr/emulation

I usually don't have my PS4 controllers out unless I'm playing the emulators, so I use the Harmony remote more often. That remote looks good, really low price too.

I use this remote: https://smile.amazon.com/Logitech-Harmony-Control-Smartphone-Simple/dp/B00BQ5RYI4/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1485487626&sr=1-10&keywords=logitech+harmony

I got mine on sale at Best Buy for $100ish a while back. A bit pricey, but I wanted a very slim, lightweight remote.

u/NotSelfAware · 3 pointsr/hometheater

The one downside to going app only is that someone always has to be present with a phone connected to the hub. This could be problematic if your brother had guests staying who needed to watch TV while he (or someone else from the household) wasn't there. For $70 you can get the hub with the simple remote, which would be useful for those kinds of circumstances.

u/TheObviousChild · 3 pointsr/hometheater

Harmony SmartHub

Just set this up in a basement theater with the media equipment in a closet under the stairs. Works great. I used an old HTC Android phone as a dedicated remote control. Works great!

u/Chem-Nerd · 3 pointsr/nexus6

If it's really a big deal you can solve it for $99 with a Logitech Smart Control (it's the same price as the version w/o the small physical remote). While it's not the same and has additional hardware it'll solve the problem and you don't need line of sight for it. Just FYI.

u/andy2na · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

yup, I agree.

Using Wemo plugs to manually shut off your tv and xbox is a terrible idea. The Xbox One runs in a low power state so if you force shut it off you could corrupt your game saves, or worse, your OS and your Xbox. Additionally, if you cold boot it from a full power down, it takes a VERY long time to boot, versus seconds, if its in sleep. Same goes with your TV, depending on your TV.

Wemo plugs should just be used for simple stuff like lamps, fans, coffee makers. Not computers (basically what the Xbox One is), TVs, etc. You wouldn't just pull the plug on a PC that was powered on, would you?

Get the Harmony hub if you dont already, it will do exactly what you want and is compatible with alexa. You can usually find it for $70 on sale:

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Harmony-Control-Smartphone-Simple/dp/B00BQ5RYI4/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499064147&sr=1-6&keywords=harmony+hub

u/SteelDirigible98 · 3 pointsr/alexa

Mine came with a remote too. You can tell alexa, or you can use the remote, or you can use your phone.


This is what I got. Ships in 1-2 months though.
Logitech Harmony Smart Control - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BQ5RYI4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_P6PRzb3QQ0AYA

u/Arctic172nd · 3 pointsr/Roku

Its pricey but this is what I use. It controls the roku over ip or you can control it with ir.

http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Harmony-Control-Smartphone-Simple/dp/B00BQ5RYI4

u/Feeling_Saucy · 3 pointsr/googlehome

I bought the hub+remote combo used on Amazon for $69.99 . I wasnt sure what to expect because I've never bought anything used on Amazon before, but it was fulfilled by them so I thought I'd give it a try. The box was beat up but I was so happy to open it and see a brand new remote + hub still in the plastic wrapping. Best day ever. I'd suggest going to the link below if your looking for a remote too.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00BQ5RYI4/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=all

u/jrile · 3 pointsr/hometheater

If you are interested in something like that (I also highly recommend) the harmony hub is on sale for $50 right now.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQ5RYI4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?tag=slicinc-20&ascsubtag=c99d1e7cb8a011e990aee6a63278c9240INT&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

I personally love this thing because of the alexa compatibility. Also you can use any phone/tablet as a remote along with that one. I bought a cheap amazon tablet as a dedicated remote

u/Mikchi · 3 pointsr/PS4

$700? Get out of here, cheapskate

Or if Ethernet is your thing...

u/alienashtray · 3 pointsr/videos

I'm just curious...

u/rempred · 3 pointsr/headphones

The cable is a mile long, you could walk across the room before it yanked. If you're playing at your desk (PC?) then you'll be fine, the cable won't wear or fray. These headphones are amazing, I love them. In about 8 months your ear pads will start to feel like they suck, that's because the foam has broken down. I just got these and my 700Xs are brand new again.

u/nphil · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

I have the M40x which I think is pretty similar. How do these go on? Do you take off the old pads first or do these go on top of the ones already on there?

Was thinking about buying these velour pads, been on my wishlist for 24 dollars forever.

u/bobguyman · 3 pointsr/headphones

http://amzn.com/B00MFDX4YO

On amazon it's from mp4nation.net's amazon store front.

u/Elnrik · 3 pointsr/headphones

Uhhh... Maybe.

I'd go with something like this...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_TDQOybBVYZNSS

u/olbaze · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

The Kraken Pro has a 3.5mm combojack, usually found in cellphones and laptops. You'll need a splitter for your PC. Something like this.

u/Tacanacy · 3 pointsr/PS4

You can use an audio USB adapter. If the headset cable terminates in one plug, get a Y-splitter or another adapter with a single TRRS jack. If the cable isn't long, then just use an aux extension cable or a USB extension cable.

u/-A_V- · 3 pointsr/xboxone

HyperX Cloud Stinger

Steel Series Flux

And this cable

I have both and use them pretty interchangeably. Don't let the price $25 fool you on the Flux. It is an excellent headset (https://www.engadget.com/products/steelseries/flux/scores/).

u/iritegood · 3 pointsr/DealsReddit

The description is wrong. The PS4 uses a 4pole 3.5mm connector. To use the headset with a PC just get a splitter

u/Cocoapebble755 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Is this what you are looking for?


Maeline 3.5mm Female to 2 Male Gold Plated Headphone Mic Audio Y Splitter Flat Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wCl3Db8CKATWZ

u/sinlightened · 3 pointsr/sony

Yeah.. there are adapters to turn the single aux on your headphones into 2 separate mic/headphone connectors.

You need something like this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_vS8Xzb3M6HSCV

u/neomancr · 3 pointsr/GalaxyS7

You actually have one of the best android devices for that second to the LG v20. It supports Bluetooth and USB microphones. Otherwise get a splitter like this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1486925540&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Headphone+mic+splitter&dpPl=1&dpID=41p4oX5fWXL&ref=plSrch

Go to the galaxy apps store and get the stock voice recorder it works great. It'll record with dynamic gain so no matter how loud it still won't distort. You can scream into it and it'll sound fine. It's amazing.

There are also great Samsung pro audio solutions too that'll let you do professional 24 bit recordings with live processing

u/theSalmon9 · 3 pointsr/audio

I don't actually have one of these subs, but I'm 99% sure you will not be able to use the sub to power the speaker outputs. The speaker level inputs/outputs are used to get a signal to the sub after it has already gone through an amplifier, and the sub's built-in amplifier is only used to power itself. You can definitely still use the sub by getting an adapter cable to run from the TVs 3.5mm output to the subs RCA Line In, but you will need to get some sort of amp/receiver for the bookshelf speakers. It doesn't have to be fancy, I've used small cheap amplifiers to power speakers and while it wasn't audiophile quality, it was definitely better than the TV speakers.

3.5mm to RCA cable

Small Amplifier I've used before

u/GbMaxSE · 3 pointsr/hometheater

So here's the deal. The TCL outputs audio externally via two methods. Either Optical digital audio out (toslink), or a headphone port. SO that leaves you utilizing one of those two ports.

​

  • If you want to use the headphone port, you need a 3.5mm Male to Stereo RCA Male. Such as THIS. you plug the headphone (3.5mm) end into the TV, the RCAs into your crappy soundbar.
  • Otherwise, to use the Digital output on the television, you need a DAC. You need a device to convert a digital signal from the tv (Toslink, aka Optical) to an analog signal (RCA Male-to-Male). You would run an Optical Cable from the TV to A DAC such as this, and then use the RCA Male-to-Male cables you presumably already have.

    ​

    In the future you'd be better served posting in r/soundbars . We really should get THAT subreddit going, and stop polluting r/hometheater with simplistic questions like this :)


    Good luck!
u/reggydavis · 3 pointsr/HeadphoneAdvice

Considering these are desktop devices, your iPhone won't be able to connect to the DAC, only to the AMP. The Modi 3 comes with a micro usb cable you can plug into your laptop.

Connecting the DAC to AMP

Connecting iPhone to AMP (headphone jack)

u/Archayor · 3 pointsr/headphones

Yes, this can easily be done.

You'll just connect your D30 and Atom like a normal DAC/Amp setup, and connect the RCA outs on the back of the Atom to the AUX input on the AD18. The Atom will automatically act as a pre-out once you unplug your headphones and route the input from your DAC through to the AD18, and you can use the volume wheel of the Atom to control the volume of your speakers as well.

So all you'll need to buy in addition to that is a dual-RCA to 3.5mm TRS cable (like this one)

u/APEvorbis2341 · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

You can get a 3.5m to dual rca male cable or 3.5mm to rca socket for easier splitting but need a rca male to male. Keep in mind to set your realtek driver to max power (differs for different drivers/software). Also a good motherboard is recommended like the modern alc1220 or even alc892-897). Ideally a high snr board (some low end boards are good like the msi tomahawk[except b450 ughh dont know why msi dumdbed it down:(] or mortar with high output for the codec they implemented by implementing good amps). You also need speaker wire or 2 premade speaker cable for sturdier and easier connection process

u/MyUsernameIsJudge · 2 pointsr/hometheater

Assuming you can plug that amp in to a regular socket, you'd just need 3.5 to rca like this

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=3.5+rca&qid=1556632699&s=gateway&sr=8-3

run that from the projector to the amp then speaker wire from the amp to speakers. I've had issues with cheap projectors like that having a "ground loop hum" so there's a hissing sound if you use the audio out. If you get that you'll need to bypass the projector audio and try and get the sound from the laptop to the amp and speakers.

u/so-very-very-tired · 2 pointsr/vinyl

The back of the LP-60 should have an RCA out. In which case, you probably want one of these cables: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8KO2

u/vince24L · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

The dual RCA to the L AND R input in the sub was correct right?

This plug: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H8KO2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/raptor75mlt · 2 pointsr/Chromecast
u/lightfork · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You can achieve good isolation using a USB DAC.

Many people recommend the FiiO E10K for headphones.

u/Zalbu · 2 pointsr/headphones

What's a good portable entry level amp and DAC for Europeans? The Schiit Fulla 2 seems to be getting the best recommendations but it's way harder to find in Europe. Is the Fiio E10K a good alternative? It's a lot cheaper than the Fulla 2 too.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/FiiO-Olympus-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2/ref=lp_1640593031_1_2?srs=1640593031&ie=UTF8&qid=1487934952&sr=8-2

u/Silent331 · 2 pointsr/joinsquad

My current audio setup for gaming very similar to yours. I love this setup and have no interest in getting anything else and will be using this for years to come, or until something dies. The USB DAC separates it from the computer and there is zero feedback or noise and its bliss. I would definitely recommend an outside dac over onboard or in case sound card.

Sennheiser HD 598, open and closed back

Mod Mic 5

USB DAC + AMP

USB sound card to plug in the mic if needed

Total: $324.81

u/zeagan · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Not sure about just straight cables, but there are piles of usb powered DACs with RCA outputs. Really depends on your budget. uDAC3 is good, Audioengine D1 is good, Fiio E10K is good.

u/stevenwashere · 2 pointsr/oneplus

http://www.schiit.com/products/fulla-1

The schiit fulla works with my phone. You will need an otg cable though. I know the name is dumb cuz it shows up as fulla schiit but it's a solid brand and a solid entry level product for audiophiles.


FiiO E10K USB DAC and Headphone Amplifier (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LP3AMC2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3MqUBbNZ8QXWX


And fiio makes tons of different ones. A co-worker has a battery powered one and my other coworker uses this one for power his Sennheiser 58x jubilee and his Sennheiser 6xx. Those are just a couple there are so many. Check out massdrop cuz cool audiophile stuff always shows up there for good prices.

u/FatS4cks · 2 pointsr/headphones

You can always try to look into what kind of chips manufacturers put in their audio interfaces and compare them to the internals of straight up dacs. I haven't done so myself, but I expect they mostly use realtek components, the same stuff that ends up on computer motherboards anyway, meanwhile dedicated audio gear typically uses in-house components, or chips designed by other audio companies. Again I'm basically guessing when it comes to what kind of components are found in mixers since I'm no expert in that field.

I'd say most modern middle ground motherboards are good enough for 75% of all headphones, but if you're looking into getting something like Beyerdynamics in the 250ohm flavor or
the Sennheiser HD600, which are generally hard to drive, I recommend Fiio E10k or the Dac-X6. Both are decently cheap and will drive 90% of all headphones. Someone mentioned the o2 sdac and that one is basically the sweet spot before the law of diminishing returns begins and it will drive 99% of everything out there.

tldr; get your headphones first before looking into external audio since it's likely your pc will run them just fine.

u/ThatNeonZebraAgain · 2 pointsr/PCSound

FiiO E10k is a little over your budget (could get one that's open box/used), but well worth the price.

u/StormKMD · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I would look into a DAC&AMP at this point. Couple options:
Fiio E10K
I have this one and it works great with my DT990s.

If you want to spend more, you can look into a Schitt stack. Magni - Amp + Modi - DAC

u/KSledneck · 2 pointsr/software

You can find used speakers on craigslist. Look for a 2.1 system that include a sub and plug directly into the wall. You can also test them out with your phone if you got to check them out. Speakers that dont plug directly into the depend on the electrical current of the 3.5mm jack to drive them not making them loud enough. In terms of headphones you should save and get a nice pair with high impedance and a dac/amp. Audio Technicas m50x/m40x are great headphones and if your audio device cant drive them hard enough look into getting a dac/amp like this one https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_23_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=5FDQ5J5D3XQQ4E4TZC4P

u/cjei21 · 2 pointsr/Philippines

May budget-range ka ba? O bottom-less wallet? haha.

Mukhang solid na yung suggestion ni /u/invaderxim. Pwede na yun for about 3k php. Not sure lang about sa warranty.

Otherwise 5k-7k++ pag titingin ka sa mall. I suggest that you visit Listening Room at Megamall, or ListenUp! at Glorietta.

Hanapin mo yung FiiO E10K (https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2)

Plan B, baka pwede sound-card upgrade?

u/Digitalabia · 2 pointsr/AVexchange

I have one of these and I don't like it. I makes the sound too bright and tinny. I don't recommend it.

u/TrappaTroopa · 2 pointsr/steelseries

Honestly dude just buy one of these. It's an amplifier and a DAC. I tested it with my Arctis 7 before I got my DT-770 Pro 250+OHMs and it makes things much louder

FiiO E10K USB DAC and Headphone Amplifier (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LP3AMC2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WUkZCb5T5PC8

It's very small and light. Fits in the palm of your hand

u/homeboi808 · 2 pointsr/hometheater

If you are doing music creation, get headphones. Get both the Superlux 668B's and Xiaomi Piston III's, they can't be beat for the price, check Rtings (the Xiaomi is the little brother of the 1More Tripple Driver, I have both and they sound identical, the 1More just has better tips/accessories and works with iOS' volume controls). Then, spend the rest on a DAC/AMP, such as the FiiO E10K.

u/Shockwave0304 · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Getting a dedicated DAC and amp is the most recommended solution to increasing sound quality on here. And will allow for more upgrades in the future should you choose to do so. (Ex: Getting a turntable or dedicated CD player) The [Fiio E10K] (http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1412205822&sr=1-1&keywords=Fiio+dac%2Famp) is a common suggested DAC/Amp in your price range. You might be able to find an Audioquest Dragonfly in your price range too if you look around. Unfortunately it's rather difficult to find a DAC/Amp in your price range that is truly worth the money.

I'd look around on /r/audiophile at past posts and see what others have said. Also check in /r/headphones and see what they have suggested in the past.

EDIT: Read through this post that made on /r/headphones, I think it will help you. http://www.reddit.com/r/headphones/comments/15wunp/guide_dacs_and_amps/

u/demevalos · 2 pointsr/headphones

I think you might be looking for a DAC/AMP combo, rather than just a DAC. You can't plug your headphones into a DAC, that's the amplifier. A good place to start would be the fiio e10k.

https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1538685530&sr=1-3&keywords=fiio+e10k

u/sk9592 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I looked up your motherboard model number. Yeah, bottom of the barrel budget stuff there. Definitely no premium audio built in.

It really depends on what you want. If all you're looking for is louder, clearer audio, then something like the internal PCIe based Asus Xonar DGX is relatively cheap and "good enough":

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007TMZ1BK/



If you want a bit higher end experience, the a USB DAC with built in headphone amp would be nice:

https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2

Beyond this, the sky is the limit, you can end up spending a lot of money on pro/audiophile equipment.

u/pheonix94 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I would return or sell the soundcard for as much as you can get for it and pick up an external DAC/amp. I'm currently using a FiiO E10K USB DAC and Headphone Amplifier with a pair of Audio Technica AUD ATHAD500X's and I couldn't be happier. The audio is super clean and the FiiO can drive the headphones way louder than I could ever want.

u/AndroidVageta · 2 pointsr/hardwareswap

What? An amp ALWAYS makes things better unless you're running some high-end sound card with it built in. If he doesn't have an amp I'm assuming he's using on-board...which no headphone should suffer to.

OP, how about something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1418233004&sr=1-1&keywords=USB+DAC

Do you need a DAC? Just an amp? Are you using analog (if you've got a equalizer)?

u/Explore-- · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I have a pair of 598's that I have had for a year. I want to make them a little louder so I am looking into getting an AMP/DAC. (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LP3AMC2)

Also, I want to upgrade the cable to one that is a little bit shorter. I just don't know what size of this (https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Audio-upgrade-Sennheiser-Headphones/dp/B00KAKBHKM/ref=pd_bxgy_23_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00KAKBHKM&pd_rd_r=SMADGB41HQ3CRAP4XV4C&pd_rd_w=QToiZ&pd_rd_wg=2mqQo&psc=1&refRID=SMADGB41HQ3CRAP4XV4C) to get.

Thanks for the help.

u/archetype4 · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Easiest thing would be to get a USB dac/headphone amp with a line out in case you add a nicer amp or speakers later.

https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Decoder-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE

https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2

Either of these will work, the e10k does up to 96khz 24 bit resolution, has a volume knob, looks nice, and has a good reputation with its measurements and many reviews.

the signstek only does 44.1khz/16bit accurately but that won't matter for most people. I have the signstek one and it works fine with my dt770s, no noise and seems clearer than my motherboard audio. Plenty loud enough at 20% windows volume too.

If your budget allows for the e10k, get it. The signstek amp is just really nice for the <$30 category, which is almost non-existent for usb dacs.

u/mrjnox · 2 pointsr/AndroidQuestions

My Nexus 6P, Pixel C, and Pixel XL all support external USB sound cards with the port acting in host mode. That is to say, to make USB audio work, I need to use a USB-C to USB-A cable and a bus-powered USB sound adapter. It's unweildy, but it works (and and external DAC like the one I linked will actually usually give better quality than the one internal to the phone.

Although their is a USB-C audio standard, as /u/sorakiu pointed out, manufacturers have yet to all start fully implementing it. A passive adapter, like the one you purchased, relies on a standard like this to work.

u/mannequinz · 2 pointsr/headphones

I have the Fiio E10K. It's a solid amp/dac combo that I use for gaming, movies, etc.

As for mics, I would suggest checking out /r/microphones.

u/jLynx · 2 pointsr/Nexus7
u/Nexdeus · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

> 100 €

For that price range, perhaps this.

http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2/

u/swiftlysauce · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I don't recommend internal sound cards, you're better off getting an external DAC.

u/majinwar · 2 pointsr/headphones

Personally own the FiiO E10K and would highly recommend it.

Amazon ($75 USD)

u/not_a_throw_awya · 2 pointsr/GlobalOffensive

yeah amp/dac can be expensive. if you save up and drop down the money on the schiit modi/magni you should be really happy, but there are some more affordable options that are amp+dac combos like the fiio e10k ($75) which are also good, though I'm not sure I'd recommend going any cheaper than that with your headphones. realistically though, unless you're an audiophile you won't notice the difference between the amp+dac combo i linked or a schiit stack. you could also go a bit lower most likely but i don't know of what is good in the $50~ range.

from what i can tell a good stereo amp should work for headphones if you don't mind the annoyance, but i'm not an expert or anything, i just like headphones.

u/dr_torque · 2 pointsr/audiophile

The Schiit fulla is a d/a converter + amp, which means it'll apply gain to the signal after analogue conversion for it to be able to drive headphones. This isn't ideal for feeding into another gain stage (built into your powered speakers). I'd suggest something like this, in addition to a headphone output, it has a line-level output that you can use with your speakers.

u/Nose-Nuggets · 2 pointsr/pcgaming
u/SmonkWide · 2 pointsr/headphones

Hi hi hi friends,

I bought my Sennheiser HD 598 CS's during black friday and I cant help but feel like I'm not getting the most out of them. Right now I have them connected, along with a ModMic, to my mobo with this.

I had my eyes set on these;

FiiO E10K

Optomo NuForce

So, my question is, should I get either of these DACs or is it not really worth the price I'm intending to pay? If I should buy a DAC which one of these should I get? Or is there a better one around this price point?

Budget: $150cad

Location: Canada

Thanks for any help!

u/Creamlium · 2 pointsr/headphones

Hi team,

I have the AKG 712 Pro with a FiiO E10K.

When I'm playing games (mostly PUBG), I'm not hearing directional sound well. I'm not sure if it's just my crappy hearing, my settings, or something else all together. When I hear gunfire, I always think it is behind me. Any suggested settings tweaks or anything else I could do/test?

u/MixxiM · 2 pointsr/headphones

Budget - Around $150-200(minus the DAC/amplifier I plan on buying for $75unless I shouldn't) Flexible but obviously less is better.


Source - Not really sure if this is what I should be doing but I plan on buying this so I guess the budget is $75-150


Requirements for Isolation - Some would be ideal but they'll only be used in my room upstairs so nothing crazy, usually fairly quiet.


Preferred Type of Headphone - Full sized


Preferred tonal balance - Probably leaning slightly towards heavy bass but balanced is fine


Past headphones - Literally nothing worth mentioning. I use a shitty 1-ear $12 "headset" from office depot on my pc and apple headphones on my phone. Anything is an upgrade


Preferred Music - Mainly hip hop/rap, some rock. Decent bass is a must but I don't care about it too much. Going to be using it for gaming too.

u/andywizard1 · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Since there is a lot of processing of information going on around the motherboard there may be some kind of electrical interference affecting your audio output. In my case I would hear faint squeaking through my headphones when my GPU usage was high. Right now I have a FiiO E10K external Amp/DAC and it works great with my HD558's and HD598Cs, solved all my issues. I personally have not had any experience with Creative's solutions.

u/MrEditor · 2 pointsr/GWABackstage

Why are there still fake-real knobs and such? Because.....

There was a long time where analog was it. It's all there was. 4, 8, 12, 16 track analog recorders. Behemoths of recording consoles. If GWA existed somehow in that day, we would all own little 2-track recorders, a small mic pre-amp unit, and a microphone. And you'd maybe have an analog EQ and compressor, big physical units that looked like this.

So when everything went digital, a decision was made. To preserve brand identity and user familiarity, they copied the physical unit into a digital VST application. Compare This real world Shadow Hills Compressor unit with The Shadow Hills Compressor Plug-in.

There isn't any reason beyond that. There is reasons to choose analog or digital, but not to have a UI reminiscent of analog units.


As far as heaphones go, I'll take you through what I own, and what I use most.

Sennheiser HD 650

Sennheiser HD6 MIX

These were gifts through a brief endorsement deal I had, and I run these through this headphone amplifier

For higer-end earbuds, I use Sennheiser IE 60's and Sennheiser IE 80's. These I primarily use for simple editing on the go, giving to performers to use on stage or using myself on stage, or for women tracking vocals or instruments who don't want to mess up their hair with big over-the-head headphones.

But, my most used setup, what has become my dream setup, and the one that I will always reach for first, is far from the priciest.

Sennheiser HD 280 Pro, run out of the computer through a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2.

This is my favorite setup. The 280 Pro's are $100, the Scarlett is around $150. The headphones are crystal clear, have tight response all through the spectrum, are rugged enough to get chucked the fuck around, are comfy, and come with a great quality screw-on adapter so they able to be used into a 1/4" connection or a standard 1/8" headphone jack. Their impedance means they don't need an amp and can be used as normal headphones. They sound JUST as good as pairs ten times their price, and they have a certain special something to their super-low end and high-mids that I haven't found. Go get these today. Trust me.

The Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 isn't used as an amplifier in this case, since the 280's don't need it. It serves as a USB feed out, with a nice little volume knob. USB out will always trump 1/8" headphone jack out audio. Plus, the 2 inputs are nice to have. I own two of these units, and one always travels with my laptop for an easy, portable solution for HQ audio monitoring, easy L-R in recording from a sound board, or easy audio out from my laptop.

Together, these things have a certain magic, and I don't have to break my bank or handle them like china dolls. They're both rugged and sound AMAZING.

EDIT: I forgot my in-ear molded earphones. I own a pair of Alclair Reference IEM's. They are a great price, sound incredible for stage or studio, and I got mine with wood backs and DAMN are they sexy.

u/einulfr · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I've been pretty happy with the FiiO E10K paired up with my HD 598 SEs.

u/mlicata8802 · 2 pointsr/AskTechnology

Is there a difference between the "FiiO E10K USB DAC and Headphone Amplifier" and "FiiO E10K Olympus 2 USB DAC Headphone Amplifier". I don't see any change besides the price. If there is a difference is it worth it to get the Olympus 2?

Sources:
FiiO E10K USB DAC and Headphone Amplifier: (http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2)

FiiO E10K Olympus 2 USB DAC Headphone Amplifier:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA36T22A2762

u/Kerry56 · 2 pointsr/headphones

Lets try a less expensive route and actually include a mic this time.

Philips Fidelio X2 No amp necessary. £187.00

If you just want to include a DAC/amp: Fiio E10k £61.90

V Moda Boompro mic £25.00

£273.90

u/blopblip · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I'd forgo an amp and spend your money on studio monitors + DAC.

Something like this plugs into your computer and outputs an analogue signal for either headphones or speakers.

Then, powered speakers like these. It will be a big upgrade from your logitech system, and fit your needs/budget. If you can find a used pair of M-audio AV-40's or bx5's, that would be ideal - this newer line seems to have poorer reviews.

u/Trazac · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Surround sound headsets are a joke, so don't worry about not using one. Doubtful you'll even notice a difference at all and any difference you perceive right now is likely placebo.

The AKG K7XX headphones are very good, but expensive. You'll need an amp to take advantage of their quality, and to that end you'll likely need a decent DAC as well. You could start out with somethin like the Fiio E10K
which is highly regarded for its price. It's very good for a device that costs less than $100.

On the flip side, there are the Sennheiser HD 598 headphones which aren't nearly as good, but also cost much less and don't require an amp to sound good. They don't benefit all that much from an amp anyway (although any headphones might benefit from a decent DAC.) They're pretty good for gaming, and very comfortable.

u/motodoto · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I'm the thrifty kinda guy.

Refurbished Denon receiver, 2 Micca bookshelves, a Micca center channel, and a Bic America subwoofer. About 700 bucks total. Sounds good enough for me. I know much better is out there but it's hard to justify the costs.

My Sennheiser HD598SE's are great ($150), and I have a FiiO E10K ($75) that they plug into at work, and at home I just plug them in directly since the onboard soundcard isn't too bad surprisingly on my motherboard. I have a Sony SRS-X5 bluetooth speaker plugged into the back of it as well. I have those cheap-ass sony ANC headphones (20 bucks at the time I bought them) and they get the job done at a cheap price for planes and for the AC unit blasting in my office (I know... killing me, 80db of white noise all day long).

I have a friend from work that spent 50,000 bucks on his setup. It sounds great, and it's worth it, but I couldn't spend that much on it.

I'm more of a headphone kinda guy. My next upgrade would probably be going all out on headphones. A pair of Sennheiser HD800's probably. That's in the far future, I got stuff I want to do around the house first.

These are my workout earbuds

They are a great value.

u/ThyGoonSmasher · 2 pointsr/starcitizen

I think there would be minimal benefits using an enthusiast grade DAC and amplifier on your model of headphones. You might like something like this though

https://www.amazon.co.uk/FiiO-Olympus-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526665107&sr=1-3&keywords=fiio

It's the FIIO E10K which is a decent DAC+AMP combo, but it only has USB in so make sure your sound card supports that. It may be worthwhile googling around for reviews of the Sennheiser 598SR + FIIO E10K pair to get some other opinions as well.

u/ChamuelSophia · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If you want to completely fix your issue at any volume get yourself a USB DAC like the FiiO e10k. Use the plug and play Windows drivers.

u/Jc36 · 2 pointsr/IndianGaming

How much are you willing to spend? The FiiO DAC Amps are very well built and work great. The E10K is 5k, and is great for medium to high quality headphones and is USB powered.

https://www.amazon.in/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-USB/dp/B00LP3AMC2

u/troughdiver · 2 pointsr/edmproduction

Happy to help! And I’m not sure about the Blue Yeti. I would read reviews and checkout forum threads to find out more.

The mic I have and like is this (important to note I don’t sing so haven’t put it to the real test):

https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/AT2020--audio-technica-at2020-cardioid-condenser-microphone?mrkgcl=28&mrkgadid=3301332174&rkg_id=0&product_id=AT2020&campaigntype=shopping&campaign=aaShopping%20-%20SKU%20-%20Studio%20%26%20Recording&adgroup=Microphones%20%26%20Wireless%20-%20Audio-Technica%20-%20at2020&placement=google&adpos=1o11&creative=280136034178&device=m&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=CjwKCAjw_b3cBRByEiwAdG8WqoLYzYWBTYB37WkqrX8p69rmu7nyqKOlWANFXGBquefokAjUPIUXbBoCfTYQAvD_BwE


Studio headphones I recommend:

($80-100 range) industry standard, very flat response, this is what I started with and finished my first song using:

https://www.musiciansfriend.com/pro-audio/sony-mdr-7506-professional-headphones/271056000000000?cntry=us&source=3WWMWXGP&gclid=CjwKCAjw_b3cBRByEiwAdG8WqmLR5mww0uqHXaFlKGMir96HVqp0iRR2KoVN0q_g8Oc6-z-nc8h1jxoCitAQAvD_BwE&kwid=productads-adid%5E246351748708-device%5Em-plaid%5E323968794223-sku%[email protected]%5EPLA

($210-240 range)
More snazzy, have them and love them, flat response, a lot more comfortable than the Sony’s too:

https://www.amazon.com/beyerdynamic-880-PRO-Studio-Headphones/dp/B079P9H1SH?th=1&psc=1

If you’ll get these you’ll probably want an amp to power them separately in order to maximize volume control (this is due to the Ohms, and is useful for anything higher than 80), I have this one it does great.. only $25 too:

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HA400-BEHRINGER-MICROAMP/dp/B000KIPT30?keywords=headphone+amp&qid=1536190375&sr=8-3&ref=mp_s_a_1_3


Btw the reason I say price “range” is because the prices fluctuate with promotions etc.

Cheers!

u/CASTorDIE · 2 pointsr/Twitch

It was a nightmare trying to use a spiderweb of headphone splitting cables until I got the Behringer HA400 and all the appropriate cables. It will make life easier, and your group will thank you lol :)

u/Drigr · 2 pointsr/podcasting

In general, straight up splitting the audio signal will degrade it. Might as well get something like the behringer ha 400

u/GlassConcert · 2 pointsr/Guitar
u/yoitsmeab · 2 pointsr/audioengineering


Behringer Microamp Ha400 Ultra-Compact 4-Channel Stereo Headphone Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KIPT30/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_AhDMtK5gmwB2x

u/harroldo25 · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

You could use a small mixer and a headphone amp, especially if you have no intention of recording.

You'll want enough inputs for all of your instruments. If you have 4 instruments playing in your band then you'll need 4 input channels.

The cheapest way would be:

4 input mixer (all on TRS jacks - you would have to convert XLR to jack and you wouldn't be able to send phantom power to condenser microphones).
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Micromix-MX400-Low-Noise-4-Channel/dp/B000KGYAYQ

4 channel headphone amp.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Headphone-Amps/Behringer-HA400-Microamp-Headphone-Amplifier/B000KIPT30

Cable to connect the two boxes. The cable must be TRS otherwise you'll only get the left side or right side only - guitar cable wouldn't be great.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stagg-SAC3PS-DL-Deluxe-Instrument/dp/B0030LVCDK/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?crid=377W0ZHNLRN5W&keywords=trs+cable&qid=1555711034&s=gateway&sprefix=trs+&sr=8-5

You would hear sound, it's cheap and compact. If you're willing to spend more money then you could get more expensive equipment. It wouldn't be pretty but it would do for starting out along with a sub £50 investment.

u/matty_m · 2 pointsr/podcasting

Here is the headphone amp I use. I have a windscreen but I haven't used it since i always used it inside. I have not tried to use it to record three people talking at once but I knew someone who did it with an H1 with some success. It definitely had more of a live sound than in a studio.

u/ActionFlank · 2 pointsr/PS4

FiiO D3 (D03K) Digital to Analog Audio Converter With Micca 6ft Optical Toslink Cable - 192kHz/24bit Optical and Coaxial DAC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_U-0ryb4GEWGRE

Behringer Microamp Ha400 Ultra-Compact 4-Channel Stereo Headphone Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KIPT30/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5b1ryb9K5W9Q9

Inelegant and cheap solution I use for my 598s. You can pay more for a mixamp, but meh. This gets loud. You may need another aux cable... I don't recall if the DAC came with one, as I needed a long one that I got separately.

u/HerpBanana · 2 pointsr/Bass

You can get a headphone amp, that works too. If you just wanna listen and practice with headphones. I have used this for years.

u/KnockoutMouse420 · 2 pointsr/audio

You need something like this. I looked a little bit on your website but I don't speak Spanish. Hook it up to your monitor out and you're good to go.

u/NovaKitFoX · 2 pointsr/letsplay

Head Phones. Headphones.. .HEAD PHONES!!!!!
Get Ether a simple non powerd headphone splitter.
Or even better, a powerd one like this one here

We I do the same set up on our channel and a powered splitter is WELL WORTH IT. IT lets both of us adjust out levels to our liking.
Though keep in mind. IT's not going to be the END ALL of background pic up on that Yeti.

If you have open backed headphones or just it REALLY LOUD. the Yeti will still pick up the audio from them. I've noticed it in my captures as well. But since it is so low, it's not noticeable when the game audio is mixed in.

So get a powered headphone amp that will split into multiple out puts for your cheapest best solution in my book.

u/tehdudeabides · 2 pointsr/podcasts

I did. I went with the following item:

Behringer Microamp Ha400 Ultra-Compact 4-Channel Stereo Headphone Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KIPT30/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_MCBYcDZxieVlq

u/6x9equals42 · 2 pointsr/headphones

A splitter cable will work, you just won't be able to independently control the volume for each headphone. You could also pair a DAC like Fiio D3 with this although not sure how noisy that would be compared to the other options

u/ryandinho14 · 2 pointsr/DaftPunk

There are all sorts of amps you can get. Are you interested in tube or solid-state? Are you getting the ATH-M50s for sure? If you are, you will need to get a high-wattage tube amplifier, because the ATH-M50s only produce 38 ohms, which is a low impedance. This means that plugged into a tube amplifier, they will not be very loud, especially compared to higher-impedance headphones. To compensate for this, you will need to get a higher-wattage amplifier, which translates to more expensive.

Depending on your price range, I would direct you to anything from the solid-state Behringer HA40 to the tube HiFiMan Ef5. Honestly unless you are an experienced audiophile, you will not need a tube amplifier, but they are really cool. If you want to meet somewhere in the middle there are also what's called integrated amplifiers, which combine the components of tube and solid-state amplifiers. They claim is that they produce the quality of tube with the volume of solid-state at a price between the two. That's up to the judges right now but for most an integrated amplifier is definitely ample, especially a beginner.

Personally I use the FiiO E6 as my portable headphone amplifier. It's pretty good for being so small but I do hear white noise at louder levels. FiiO is a fairly reputable amplifier company if you want to look into them. I really don't know enough about amplifiers yet (this is my weakest area) to recommend a specific product, but here are some popular integrated amplifiers. I'm still garnering the money and experience to become an amplifier connoisseur.

u/CosmicCarl · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

A headphone splitter like this one might do the trick.

u/adultspodcast · 2 pointsr/podcasting

I use a Behringer x1222usb mixer and three ATR2100-USB Microphones. I got the ATR2100s because I wanted the flexibility to be able to plug them directly into my Mac. I then have two Behringer Ultravoice Xm8500 Microphones as backups for when we have additional guests.

If I were doing it all over again I would have saved some money on the mics and bought 4 of the Xm8500s and just 1 ATR2100 (to plug directly into my computer when I needed to).

The x1222 mixer works fine, though I'm beginning to wish I had gotten a mixer that can record multiple audio tracks so that I could do some more fine tuning to individual audio levels in post (until then, I recommend a great program, called Levelator, farther below that can help with this).

You'll need decent cables for each mic, which will cost more than you expect--from what I've seen looking for cables with Neutrik connectors is usually good practice. There's also the matter of decent mic stands and pop filters as well.

You'll also probably want head phones for each podcaster so that they can hear themselves whenever they drift off mic. Amazon basics headphones are probably good enough for anyone not controlling the mixer. Then you'll also need a headphone amp (which splits the headphone signal and lets each person control their own headphone volume), for example. And you'll need several (at least one per set of headphones plus a couple spare) 6.35mm (1/4 inch) Male to 3.5mm (1/8 inch) Female headphone jack adapters.

If you want to do Skype interviews, you'll need a mixer with an AUX send port. You'll also need an iMic audio device, you can find out more about that and the other audio cables you'll need [here] (http://thepodcastersstudio.com/how-to-setup-a-mix-minus/).

Regarding software. I'd personally recommend Audacity over Garage Band, I just feel like I have more control over the sound with Audacity. Once you clean your audio up a bit (remove background noise, compress, run a limiter, etc) you should consider running it through the program Levelator which does great things to equalize voice levels.

I'm new at this as well, having only recorded 8 times, but if you want some more tips from someone else who is just starting out--just let me know.

u/runwichi · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

Okay - so MIDI isn't audio, it's just a communication protocol that lets things talk to one another. I'm going to guess that you're either sending a MIDI sequence to your keyboards (which would require a MIDI OUT from the device), or you're sending an audio feed that has a MIDI track assigned to it out of the laptop (which would need an audio output from the interface).

The XR18 can do both of these as it has a MIDI interface on the device itself. Fair warning, though - most mixers do not have a MIDI interface on them, so if you're specifically looking for a combo unit, your options are going to be severely limited.

You mention that the click will be sent to everyone else in the band, how many people will be getting the click? Have you thought about a headphone splitter?

u/Kyvalmaezar · 2 pointsr/gamecollecting

Velcro ties are a amazing at keeping cables neat.

u/GamerLucif · 2 pointsr/desksetup

Not sure about cable management in the case for but the desk...


I believe thats a malm desk so it has the rack in the back which means adding another won't be easy (really everything doesn't fit?). You could try using something like this or this with some 3m tape so you can mount the cables on the bottom of the desk so they aren't hanging. You could also wrap the cables to decrease the amount of slack using something like this. Any cables coming from the back of the monitors or the desk you can try using this. You could consider mounting your surge protector on the desk if it is not already so that no cables are dangling down to it and the only thing would be the surge protector wire.

Additional things you could look into would be a boom arm for the mic so its not sitting in the middle, might clean it up a bit. Also, if you are really dedicated to making it look nice and don't tend to rearrange that often, you could look into drilling holes for the wires for the keyboard/mouse (I'm personally not a fan of this method but people do it).

It might take a bit of cash to do ALL of that so maybe just prioritize what you think will give the best results.

u/freakingwilly · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Actual ideas:

  1. Don't use scotch tape. It heats up and the glue melts off and sticks to your cables. It's a pain in the ass to clean.
  2. Velcro Hook and loop cable ties. 100 eight inch ties for under $8. If you need them to be longer, you can loop two together for extra length.
  3. Get a longer VGA cable for the right monitor. There is way too much tension on that monitor and will make cable management a nightmare.
  4. Learn the over under rolling technique for cables. This is the preferred method for cable storage as it prevents wires from having memory bends.
  5. Use cable management sleeves to organize your cables.
u/bearlockhomes · 2 pointsr/declutter

My personal opinion is to keep and organize since they don't take up too much space. Having no shortage of a relevant cable is something I value too much to get rid of them.

This purchase is a game changer for cleaning up cable clutter.

VELCRO Brand One Wrap Thin Ties, Black, 8 x 1/2-Inch, 100 Count (91140) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E1Y5O6?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

u/veni_vidi_vale · 2 pointsr/headphones

if you think that's long, wait till you get a Q701 :-)

best way: cut to length and solder a new connector. Even a good Neutrik connector costs only a few dollars. Soldering isnt difficult, igf you have never soldered before might as well start somewhere.

The non-DIY way: braid it

The option for the lazy braider: coil it and use something like [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Velcro-Reusable-Self-Gripping-Inches-91140/dp/B001E1Y5O6) to keep things in place

u/DaNPrS · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Something like this can go a long way. And they're reusable.

u/mithikx · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

For what it's worth this item is available as an Amazon Add-on item for the same price.


https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-ONE-WRAP-Management-Self-Gripping/dp/B001E1Y5O6/

u/realjd · 2 pointsr/roadwarriors

I use Velcro cable ties and the amenity kit bags you get on international flights. Ziplock bags would work also. Coil around your hand, Velcro, and toss it in the bag.

u/MoogleMan3 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You can have a killer setup for under $500.

Mic: Audio Technica AT2005 - A great mic that a lot of let's players use (draax, zueljin, kingdaddydmac, etc.). It also accepts xlr or usb inputs (more on that at the end). I use the atr2100, which is the same mic, just different color and warranty. The at2005 is cheaper by about $25 right now, so buying today, that's the one I'd get. It's a dynamic mic, so it blocks out sound that's not in front of it. Much better for noisy environments. Condenser mics like the blue yeti will pick up a lot more background noise. Other mics I've used are the V-Moda Boompro, which works with most headphones that have detachable cables (in my case the M100s) and sounds good, but changing the cable for when I didn't want to use the mic became old pretty fast. You can leave it attached, but then the boom mic is there all the time. I've also used the antlion modmic 4.0 and can't recommend it. It has white noise unless you use a usb soundcard, the cable is stiff and it's kind of expensive compared to full fledged mics. $56

Stand: Pyle PMKSH01 Suspension Boom Scissor Microphone Stand - A decent cheap stand. Nothing special, but it comes with an integrated xlr cable. I use this one, but may upgrade to the Rode PSA1 ($100) later on. The shock mount will not fit the at2005 however. $21

Shock Mount: On-Stage MY420 - A great shock mount that fits the at2005/atr2100. Shock mounts reduce noises from bumping your desk or tapping on your keyboard; things that may reverberate to your mic. It might not even be necessary if you're not a heavy handed gamer or if your desk is made of a thick, dense material. $25

Wind Filter: On-Stage Foam Ball Windscreen - Reduces wind/breathing noises as well as minimizing plosives. Not a complete necessity, but extremely cheap and it does help, so why not? $3

Cable management: Velcro One-Wrap Cable Wraps - I use these for keeping the usb cable for the mic attached to the stand. Extremely useful and cheap. $6

Headphones: Very subjective to user preference. I prefer closed vs open for noise isolation. Here's what I've used:

Audio Technica ATH M50: Good (not great) headphones for ~$100. Considered the standard by many, but to me they're just good. $155

V-Moda M100: Excellent sound with very potent bass. They make the M50s sound muddy in comparison. HOWEVER, the M100s have a design flaw where the "wings" (the parts above where you adjust the headphones) will crack over time. It happened to two pairs of my M100s. Unacceptable for the price of these headphones, regardless of how good they sound. $222

Beyerdynamic DT770 Pro 80 Ohm: Amazing. Potent bass like the M100s, but even a bit clearer. Very wide soundstage for closed headphones. I paid $219 for mine and don't regret it a single bit. I might grab another pair at the price they're currently at. $150

All that adds up to around $261 + tax choosing the DT770s, and will be a killer setup for gaming. Far better than any "gaming" headset, and it even opens the option of streaming or let's play videos (the reason I got my setup). There is one more thing I'd add though, given the budget if you're serious about mic quality, and that's the $99 Focusrite Scarlett Solo 2nd Gen. It's a usb audio interface that accepts xlr mics. It gives you a bit more control over the audio coming out of your mic and cleans up the signal so you get less "noise" from the usb interface. Quality is good without it, but with it, it's noticeably better.

Hope this helps some! I spent quite a while researching things when I put my own setup together. :)

u/the_dayman · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Some velcro cable ties work well and usually look very discrete. Like you said, maybe a nice, smaller screwdriver and a small LED flashlight for more light?

u/kenzanboo · 2 pointsr/boostedboards

Any Velcro will do but this is the one I got. The length fits this lock diameter perfectly so it takes a second or two to strap each one down each time.

VELCRO Brand ONE WRAP Thin Ties | Strong & Reusable | Perfect for Fastening Wires & Organizing Cords | Black, 8 x 1/2-Inch | 100 Count https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hypvDb7RAC3YA

u/alluring_fruit · 2 pointsr/modular

Got 100 on amazon for like 12$

VELCRO Brand ONE WRAP Thin Ties | Strong & Reusable | Perfect for Fastening Wires & Organizing Cords | Black, 8 x 1/2-Inch | 100 Count https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_85atDbRAKBAQZ

u/Versepelles · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Great build!

Every single one of those parts are balanced and well priced. You could downgrade the PSU to the 550 Rosewill Hive and save a few dollars, but that is not necessary if you don't wish to. As for cable ties, I suggest some 4" black zip ties, a good pair of scissors, and these velcro cable wraps for both the interior and exterior cables: http://www.amazon.com/Velcro-Reusable-Self-Gripping-Inches-91140/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1394638134&sr=8-2&keywords=velcro+cable+tie

u/blarblarblar · 2 pointsr/battlestations

Looks good, but some cable management would make it look even better. Pick up some cable wrap and some velcro then go to town!

u/notskunkworks · 2 pointsr/AskReddit

These velcro zip-ties may change your life

Perfect for cable organization. You'll never go back to normal zip-ties.

u/andoriyu · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Well, you going to need a lot of patience and zip ties. Here is how I did mine:

  1. Removed ALL cables. (I had like five micro-usb cables god knows why)

  2. Started with monitors. Plastic hooks from my mesa mount fell off, so I used velcro ties (link in notes)

  3. Split cables in two categories — Stays under the desk and goes above.
  4. Used sleeve combined with tie mounts and ties to to attach cable to the wall.
  5. Cut holes in sleeve for cables that stay under the table.

    http://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-ONE-WRAP-Management-Self-Gripping/dp/B001E1Y5O6

    http://www.amazon.com/Management-Adjustable-Organizer-Flexible-Baltic/dp/B018K8UGKM
u/SpaghettiYetiConfett · 2 pointsr/gadgets

Put the second monitor on a lazy Susan on the edge of his desk so he can rotate the screen and watch Netflix in bed on his computer. Should only cost $2 and vastly increases quality of life :D

Other things:

-- Ties for wire management - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_jqgbub0823QYK

-- Rotating Power strip and duct tape to tape that shit to the underside of the desk (beer will be spilled at some point) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JEACFK/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Xxgbub0E3RY3J

-- Computer lock and cable to stop pesky thieves

-- LEDs that are daisy-chained and can be plugged into a USB

-- A USB hub for all his gadgets

-- Wireless bluetooth speaker (many uses outside of his normal computing)

-- Microsoft ergonomic keyboard 4000 - most comfortable keyboard ever - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SUIM4E/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Nygbub1ZK53VH

-- Bluetooth touch mouse - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0093H4VBU/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_9wgbub1542WT5

-- Exercise ball chair (also, with that weight limit... Lots of fun can be had doing.. Activities.. Of all sorts... Ahem..) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DG9KIE0/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_wrgbub07AKZHX

-- Some sweet headphones - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008XEYT48/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Gugbub07RHAXS

-- A handheld wireless keyboard/mouse (not what you think, this is badass. I have one. He can use it for presentations and stuff too) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003UE52ME/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Kvgbub004D1EF

-- Go to a pawn shop and get a third computer monitor (make sure his gfx card can handle it)

-- USB can cooler or 'hot plate' that keeps either your can of beer cool or your coffee warm

Anything with a link I own and definitely recommend.

u/scottydanger22 · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

Nice! These are the best for cleaning up cable mess: http://www.amazon.com/Velcro-Reusable-Self-Gripping-Inches-91140/dp/B001E1Y5O6

u/GoudaMustache · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Don't see why not. I use them in my computer. I bought this and it's more than enough. Plus you don't have to cut them if you change your mind. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cnSyxbG7EW431

u/samwheat90 · 2 pointsr/battlestations

Start by mounting your surge protector under your desk. Then gon on Amazon and search for "cable management". There are a bunch of different products you can use. I like the velcro ties. They are reusable, strong , and easy to swap out cables if needed. Zipties, double sided mounting tape, and those little plastic clips work well too. I see a lot of people use those ikea organizers, but to me, they just create a rats nest that is less visible. I prefer to have my cables managed and organized. I saw one post on Reddit where they used a gutter to hide all their cables. If you own, you could always run cables through the walls.

u/watsdm4 · 2 pointsr/HighQualityGifs

Do yourself a favor and pick up 2 packs of these and wrap at least one around every wire you have. You'll thank yourself later.

u/about_that_crazy · 2 pointsr/cableporn

Ditch the electrical tape and get some velcro straps. Super cheap on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Velcro-Reusable-Self-Gripping-Inches-91140/dp/B001E1Y5O6/

u/LDSG_BossMan · 2 pointsr/battlestations

If you are needing supplies to help with cable management, here are a few cheap options I’ve used for my setup:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HR9VS4I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6OqWAb97M00Y9

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yQqWAbWSFBNQT

Hopefully this helps!

u/RugerRedhawk · 2 pointsr/DIY

Maybe more, but can't be much more at 6.78 per 100, I think they're even cheaper at lowes. http://www.amazon.com/o/ASIN/B001E1Y5O6/?tag=dp-us-20

u/Anticode · 2 pointsr/NoStupidQuestions

No, privately owned vehicle. I was wondering if it was the ambulance you were having trouble with.

I can't see the arrangement of the plug, but you could try placing a non conductive "pry bar" between the plugs. This could be unsafe though...

You could also try something like this. This is a heated cable that is used for wrapping around plastic and metal pipes to stop water from freezing. I'm not sure how hot this actually gets, but I imagine you could wrap it around the block heater cord. I think they go as low as 150 degrees, which shouldn't melt the plastic of the other cable or anything.

It is also likely that putting some insulation around the cord might help as well. You could just get a 6" strip of normal fiberglass insulation fluff, wrap it around the connection point and then tie it down tightly with a velcro tie. When you're ready to roll out you just undo the velcro and hopefully the insulation would have been tight enough that no moisture was able to form into ice.

Perhaps you could also get a small outdoor space heater to place under the engine as well. It may keep the ambient temperature down enough? But with wind and distance, it might not be enough.

Perhaps bifurcate the power cable, add another one holding a 100w lightbulb or something and then hang it down into the engine next to the plug connection?

u/fuzzthegreatbambino · 2 pointsr/malelivingspace

This is a great little space! A couple small things could go a long way to liven it up a bit more. You've got a lot of neutrals in here (which I love, my room has a pretty similar vibe). You could easily add an accent color or two and it would really go well in here - green plants do a great job of this and work nicely with the neutral palette you've got now. As was mentioned already, a fiddle leaf fig would do great in this room. You could also go for a majesty palm if that's more your style. I'd go with something big and bold to fill up the space a little and bring some life into it. If I were you, I'd put it just to the left of the TV stand, and maybe get a good floor lamp to go in the corner on the other side of the TV stand. As it is right now, I don't see any lighting other than the window light and the overhead lights. A floor lamp in the corner and maybe another small lamp somewhere else would go a long way to make it feel more cozy and homey once the sun goes down. I agree with what was said about a bigger rug, too. You've got the space for it, go big!

Also, this is nit-picky, but some of these velcro cable ties could clean up the cords sticking out by the TV and make it look a little tidier. Cleaner = cozier in my opinion. I used to install & service custom home theaters for a living, and I used these bad boys every day for cable management. It's amazing what a difference it can make when you can't see any cables!

u/itsmejaypee21 · 2 pointsr/msp

This guy is in all of my bags. I also carry a North Face Surge 2, it's pretty solid, has a lot of pockets, the laptop pouch is lined so my device never gets scratched up. I have some velcro cable ties that have been very useful at times, but I also go into a lot of rack rooms still.

I agree with the comfy shoes, and I also carry some hand sani and wipes.

u/FlickXIII · 2 pointsr/EDC

How about one of those Velcro cord wraps (like on a laptop cord)
VELCRO Brand One Wrap Thin Ties, Black, 8 x 1/2-Inch, 100 Count (91140) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zRt4ybY4NNT3V

u/SnoBoy9000 · 2 pointsr/battlestations

This is a nice change from the typical setup, especially having two monitors on top of each other. Thanks for the variety. That said, some simple cable management would clean up everything nicely and make finding stuff, unplugging things if anything goes wrong, and moving stuff around if needed much easier. I don't think you need to do much. Some simple velcro ties could do wonders for you and is probably all you need.

u/HellsHumor · 2 pointsr/gamecollecting

They sell them by the roll cheap and they are amazing for cable management Amazon Velcro Ties for the cables behind each controller

u/PurdueME06 · 2 pointsr/homelab

For the cables: Velcro wraps

u/hab136 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Oh, so basically a string made of rubber. Got it.

Untying a knot and then re-tying it in order to add a cable seems like a lot more work. With velcro ties it's just pull it open, place the new cable, then wind the velcro tie around again. I'm specifically talking about cable ties like these (image).

u/yer_muther · 2 pointsr/Firearms

I'm not running lights or anything right now but I take one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Reusable-Fastening-Organizing/dp/B001E1Y5O6

and cut it narrow enough to work and then afix it the same as zip ties. If you run your rifle hot you may have issues though. I seldom shoot enough to make things toasty so not a big deal to me.

u/sparksterz · 2 pointsr/gamecollecting

I bought a batch of these babies. Made life much easier!

u/hellz4bellz · 2 pointsr/Costco

My store used to have the trough /u/caecus mentioned but we switched to a new type of steel so there was no place for the trough.

Honest suggestion? Get with your sup and have them move all the repeater boards to the center of each aisle. If the cat 5 cables don't reach to the panel there you'll need to convince them that running new cat 5 cable (and leaving a few feet of slack on each end) is cheaper than having an entire department waste hours of their time, and is cheaper than a whole box of new 25' hdmi cables.

Then convince someone (I wound up buying it for the department) to buy THESE and make sure everyone doesn't just cut them open.

In a trough or under the steel ideally you'll want to separate the power cables and hdmi cables into separate bundles but TV's move often enough that it won't be very practical.

Sauce: My warehouse/sup didn't even bother to listen and bought $500+ in cables instead (Sapphire corporate account). Don't be like us.

Protip: Replace the vga adapter (edit:for the computer monitors) with a cheap HDMI splitter

u/Deranged572 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Zip ties or better yet these.

u/parapotato · 2 pointsr/organization

This and these.

u/youshutyomouf · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

I use these cheap straps plus this stuff for grip. It has worked very well so far.

Try to build your micro in such a way that the straps are easy to replace. Also put some electric tape over any sharp edges on the carbon (or file the edges smooth if you aren't lazy) so the straps don't get cut as easily.

u/plazman30 · 2 pointsr/iphone

OK, there are two ways to attach this thing to the Fidelio X2.

The first it to just plug them in directly to the bottom of the headphone.

Side View

Front View

The other option is to use a short AUX cable and then use a velcro zip tie to attach them to the headband. The AUX cable I bought was red, but you can get a black one to make it look less conspicuous.

Side View

Rear View

Front View

The short AUX cables I bought were these.

The zip ties I used were these.

Hope this was useful.

EDIT: If you're going to go the short aux cable route, then I strongly recommend finding a cable with 45 degreee connectors on both ends.

u/TJHeinzo · 2 pointsr/Battletops

I've never really seen the pegboard before honestly but it just came to me. I wouldn't recommend it though, it took a bunch of time and is only for someone who likes doing organization. As far as cable management tips:

  1. My desk, the Alex from Ikea, actually has a compartment built in for cable management which is great.

  2. If you already have a desk maybe THIS would work for you,I'm planning on using this on my next desk.

  3. And if you wanna just do basic cable management, I can't recommend THESE enough. They're cheap, reusable, and work great. You could also add a SLEEVE to keep the wires together.
u/NameLips · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

You can probably tie it onto the back of the headset with velcro cord wraps (like these ones https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Reusable-Fastening-Organizing/dp/B001E1Y5O6 or something similar) without any need for physically sticking or gluing anything to the Quest at all.

u/kurzondax99 · 2 pointsr/RBA

The velcro strips I use are: http://www.amazon.com/Velcro-Reusable-Self-Gripping-Inches-91140/dp/B001E1Y5O6/

However, that's just what I had laying around. For the spools from lightning vapes, any 1/2" wide velcro should work.

u/killerbanshee · 2 pointsr/battlestations
u/mellanox-guy · 2 pointsr/homelab

These are the Amazon ones I mentioned. They're actually a little cheaper than the monoprice ones.

u/Hackintosh_HD · 2 pointsr/gamecollecting

Not bad. I use a Better Homes & Gardens 8-Cube Storage organizer and canvas totes that match. Not as accessible as your idea, but I like having mine be tucked away.

Might I recommend Velcro One-Wrap Ties for your controller cords? Prevents any wire stress from wrapping around the controller but also neat and easy to use.

If you don't need 100 like my obsessively-organized ass did, they sell them in 50 or 25 packs. At Wal-Mart they even sell 5 packs but they're just so cheap to buy en masse... and once you start velcro wrapping your cables, you're HOOKED and can never go back to tangled messes again

u/UniquePebble · 2 pointsr/CableManagement

I strongly recommend Velcro for the outside cables

u/Kreffeso · 2 pointsr/Vive

Velcro would work as well without leaving tape residue.
VELCRO Brand One Wrap Thin Ties, Black, 8 x 1/2-Inch, 100 Count (91140) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tZ77yb3GAJBVX

u/napoleon85 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Black velcro can also be used, and is safer to remove than cutting zip ties.

http://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-ONE-WRAP-Self-Gripping-Reusable/dp/B001E1Y5O6

u/scottweiss · 2 pointsr/CableManagement

i bought these a month or two ago https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Black-2-Inch-91140/dp/B001E1Y5O6

more cable ties than i'll ever need

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Micro-Trader-Black-Adjustable-Reusable/dp/B0169H26P4

those should be fine too. mostly 5 stars.

you dont really need anything fancy, either the ties work or they dont

u/qazz43 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I got some nice velcro ties off of amazon. They worked like magic, I will never use cabe or twist ties again.

I recommend these http://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-ONE-WRAP-Self-Gripping-Reusable/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421176688&sr=8-1&keywords=velcro+ties

u/some_drunk_moron · 2 pointsr/headphones

How are those cable? I normally use cable ties ( https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Black-2-Inch-91140/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1478409623&sr=8-4&keywords=cable+tie ) for my cables and concern that it might not work well with those type of cable. Also is the splitter on it heavy?