(Part 2) Best electronic components according to redditors

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We found 3,339 Reddit comments discussing the best electronic components. We ranked the 1,705 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

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Subcategories:

Circuit protection products
Electromechanical products
Fiber optic products
Interconnects
Optoelectronic products
Passive components
Semiconductor products
Electronic component sensors
Thermal management products
Decade boxes
Lighting components

Top Reddit comments about Electronic Components:

u/LifeLibertySubaru · 17 pointsr/homelab

If this were me, I would likely use some Scotchlok Butt Connectors. They would provide a more secure connection, and are very common in telecom/data cabling. Link To Scotchloks on Amazon.

Edit: The best part, the only tool you need is a pair of pliers. No guarantee this will fix the problem, but it should help- either way it’s a better way to connect them, compared to twisting the wires.

u/mydoglixu · 16 pointsr/fixit

Seconded on the heat shrink. Something like this

Also- don't use a lighter, use actual heat from an extra hot hair dryer, or a heat gun. A lighter will give you a hard time and just burn the tubing- source: I've burned tubing with a lighter.

u/viral_dna · 12 pointsr/classicmods

This is actually something I began last year and have only really posted a few teasers here and there. Well now that I've finally had time to clean it up and go back and add in the original cable I figured I'd share it with you all.

This "Stealth SD Mod" as I'm calling it, uses a MicroSD card and reader, however, you could just as easily use a small USB thumb drive in place of the MicroSD card and reader.

The way the stock USB cable connects to the inside of the controller actually presented itself as quite a problem, and not wanting to cut the cable, or destructively dremel away any of the controller (mainly due to my OCD) only made things harder. Fortunately, I was able to find a solution. Once assembled, this non destructive mod is Plug & Play.

This is actually an early prototype of something a little more advanced I'm working on.

Parts Required


  • Question: Does the controller have to be connected to Port 2?

    Answer:
    >Currently yes it must be connected to Port 2 (Player 2). The reason for this is when connected to Port 1 the system doesn't recognize the controller. This is something I think we can fix in a future update.


  • Question: Does the controller still function as a controller?

    Answer:
    >Yes, absolutely. Keep in mind however that the draw does exceed the allowed amount, so the USB Current Limit Mod is still required.


  • Question: What about USB Brown-outs?

    Answer:
    >While the power draw on this is incredibly low you'll still need to perform the USB Current Limit Mod in order to use this (Or use a hub, but that sort of defeats the purpose).


  • Question: Can you still use port 2 for other things like USB Thumb-drives, hubs etc?

    Answer:
    >Yes, absolutely.


  • Question: Can I bring my modded controller to a friends and play on their system with it?

    Answer:
    >Only if they have a powered USB hub or have performed the USB Current Limit Mod


  • Question: Does it throw off the balance of the controller at all?

    Answer:
    >The difference in weight is negligible (Stock 130g vs modded 136g).
u/HomeDepotShill · 8 pointsr/DIY

The biggest current issue with push-in connections is that they're only on the cheapest of devices. This means that homeowners will buy and attempt to install these devices incorrectly. Like 12AWG wire in a 14AWG push-in. Or not properly stripping and terminating the connection on a push in.

There are some great push-in connectors that are used on the market, like the Ideal In-Sure or the more common Wago connector.

The link you reference is for push-in connectors, not push-in connections on devices.

EDIT: I wanted to add, there are even better and faster connectors than the Wago/Ideal push-in connectors. The Wago Lever-nuts are amazing.

Also want to distinguish between push-in connections and push-in connectors (as far as the trade slang goes in my area, every area is different). Push-in connections will be on a device, like a receptacle or switch. Push-in connectors are those like that of Wago or Ideal. Separate from the device.

I apologize for being sloppy with my terminology during this discussion. I know I've interchanged connectors and connections where I shouldn't have.

u/veni_vidi_vale · 7 pointsr/headphones

is it a good radio station? If so, enjoy :-)

cable may be acting as an antenna, try using a [ferrite core] (http://www.amazon.com/Ferrite-Core-Cord-Noise-Suppressor/dp/B0002MQGE0) to suppress EMI. Make sure you get the right size!

u/OrganicThrow · 6 pointsr/microgrowery

I highly recommend you just read through this page on powering single COB led lights. Even if you have only a little bit of technical know how you can do it. Then build a light using this LED, bought with a discount code, Growmau5. Then mount it to this if you don't have a way to drill and tap this instead.

^If ^you ^go ^with ^the ^drilling ^and ^tapping ^you'll ^need ^an ^old ^cell ^phone ^charger ^to ^power ^the ^fan, ^but ^it's ^more ^compact.

That LED can be powered by this driver at about 2800mA for a nice 100 watt light under 100$.

Edit: Oh and an old power cord and these to put it all together.

u/dstutz · 6 pointsr/woodworking

I moved shops recently and wanted to have piped dust collection so I started working on that. Somewhere while watching some videos I saw several where people had blast gates that switched the DC on and off and I was like that's awesome but they didn't go into much detail. I finally accidentally found one that gave a better idea of what products they used and bought the parts, tested it out and implemented it. It works great.

To turn on the collector I just open a blast gate. To turn off the collector I close the blast gate. Pretty simple and it makes it very hard to forget to close a blast gate and use another tool with reduced suction.

Short video of it in action: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=59u5zHttUn4

The parts I used:

  • PowerSwitchTail II
  • Micro switches
  • 20/2 bell wire

    Edit: Oh and of all the methods I used to cut the DWV piping (bandsaw for shorter pieces and cleaning up, sawzall with a crappy miterbox-style 90 cutting guide and a handsaw in the same guide) the handsaw I think was the easiest to get a nice cut.
u/ContextRemoved · 5 pointsr/whatisthisthing

I agree. Very similar to the type that [TiVos used.] (http://www.amazon.com/TiVo-Head-IR-Emitter-Blaster/dp/B0054MAVXA)

u/ardweebno · 5 pointsr/Guitar

[Heat-shrink tubing] (https://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools-SHRINK-SLEEVES-ASSORTED/dp/B005W42SW2/).

When I put on new strings, I always slide a 1/2" section of the tiniest heat-shrink tubing that I can find over my upper strings. To make sure you get it in the correct spot, lay your string across the nut like you are going to string it up, mark the spot on the string about a 1/2" after then nut, then slide the heatshrink over the string to that spot and heat it with a lighter, heat gun or HOT hairdryer. It will look nice and more importantly, dampen and and all vibrations after the nut.

u/BillDaCatt · 5 pointsr/Reprap

SSR or Solid State Relay. It's a switch to turn line voltage power on and off using low voltage (3-32VDC).

Here is one on Amazon with a heatsink.

u/dcarcher · 5 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile
u/coryking · 4 pointsr/arduino

Couple things:

This slider dolly will be used to take overnight timelapse videos of the milky way. I want to hike this up an abandoned logging road in mountains near where I live, set it up on a timer, hike back down and sit around a campfire while it does its thing overnight. There were a few design goals in this project:

  • It has to be light enough to hike up 600 feet of elevation gain.
  • It has to have a power source that can handle cold temperatures. The mountains get very cold at night and certain battery chemistries crap out in cold weather.
  • It has to have a timer to start the timelapse.
  • It has to control the shutter on the camera.
  • It has to deal with wind. This thing will be on a mountain. It gets windy. No vibrations.... think "30 second shutter speed".
  • It needs to conserve power. The more power it uses, the bigger battery I have to cram into my backpack.
  • I have to be able to trust it to work unattended! Nothing sucks more than coming back to your camera in the morning and finding that something fucked up. There is a limited number of days in the year that you can do timelapse of the milky way...

    If I did this over agin here is what I might do different:

  • I would have got a custom PCB etched. Perfboards are a pain in the ass...
  • I would have used one of those little 0.96" OLED displays.
  • I would have driven the stepper motor with a second MCU co-processor. Based on experimenting, I found those things things require a "pure" squarewave to move smoothly. Anything my MCU was doing in the "loop()" that wasn't driving the stepper motor resulted in a jerky, slow stepper motor.

    Here is the inside of the "big case". The potentiometer controls the brightness of the backlight. The USB cable thing is just a USB cable so I don't have to unscrew the damn thing every time I want to update the code...

    Source code & schematic: https://github.com/coryking/MotionController

    Example videos:

    Quick 20 Minute Jaunt Down The Fire Escape

    Capitol Hill At Night


u/BatmanSays5 · 4 pointsr/essential
u/slavik0329 · 3 pointsr/esp8266

Get a NodeMCU D1 mini. it's a tiny esp8266 with built in microusb port and many input/output pins. Costs $4-8. The screen is listing below requires only four pins two operate using i2c protocol with the Wire library. Costs $2-5

Diymall 0.96" Inch Yellow Blue I2c IIC Serial Oled LCD LED Module 12864 128X64 for Arduino Display 51 Msp420 Stim32 SCR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O2LLT30/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AJxHyb8WHR49A

u/Myvenom · 3 pointsr/Nerf

Here you go

u/FattyTfromPSD · 3 pointsr/fixit

Amazon, hardware stores. Stuff is everywhere in the electrical sections.

Best part is that if it doesn’t work, or if it affects your closure too much, then you can just cut it off.

here

u/thekakester · 3 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Limit switches are very cheap, so you’ll pay more for shipping than the actual part itself. For example, the cheapest thing on amazon is a 10-piece set ($7)
https://www.amazon.com/URBESTAC-Momentary-Hinge-Roller-Switches/dp/B00MFRMFS6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3

A lot of printers come with a spare, so if you have any friends with a printer, you might ask if they have any spares. Voltage/amperage doesn’t matter, it’s just a small 5V signal line so you won’t blow anything up.

The switch doesn’t even need to look the same as the original, it can be anything. It only matters that it “clicks” at the same spot each time, which all limit switches will do. This switch just tells the printer where the bottom of the print bed is.
The only thing that matters is that you have the same two mounting screw holes (which most of these limit switches have).

The limit switch isn’t axis-specific, meaning you could use the same switch for the X,Y, or Z axis.
When the button clicks, that’s the equivalent of touching the two wires together.

Edit: if you really want to save money, here’s a set for $4.80 https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-pc-TEMCo-Micro-Limit-Switch-Lever-Arm-Subminiature-SPDT-Snap-Action-LOT/191202625167

Edit 2: if you live in the US, go to a local RadioShack. They’re roughly $1-2 there. https://www.radioshack.com/collections/switches/products/spdt-switch-without-roller?variant=20332090693

u/troy_proffitt · 3 pointsr/DIY

I used LED tape found off Amazon...super cheap:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF65MC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just used 22 gauge wire I got from Home Depot to solder the positive / negative to a 12v power supply. To turn the lights on and off, I just used a cheap limit switch:

https://www.amazon.com/URBESTAC-Momentary-Hinge-Roller-Switches/dp/B00MFRMFS6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1536763141&sr=8-3&keywords=limit+switch

​

I'll try to take some pictures when I get home tonight.

u/ChefJoe98136 · 3 pointsr/electricians

Not exactly cheap, but Wago lever-nuts work great for stranded and solid.

https://www.amazon.com/222-413-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Compact-Connectors/dp/B000JJPA66

u/trogdorhd · 3 pointsr/electrical

Check out this site. There's a good photo illustration of the right way to safely connect stranded and non-stranded wires.
https://www.familyhandyman.com/electrical/wiring/how-to-make-safe-wire-nut-connections/view-all/

Or just buy some wago connectors: https://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-413-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B000JJPA66/

u/MertsA · 3 pointsr/techsupportgore

No, you still wouldn't ever want to do it that way. Just use a standby UPS plugged into the same circuit as the primary supply. Least sketchy way to do it would be to score the power cable along the length for a couple inches and around the circumference all the way through and peel off the jacket to expose the three inner conductors and slap on a t tap on each one. Then just wire up an adapter going from a standard NEMA 5 plug to the spade terminals from the t taps.

https://www.amazon.com/Ginsco-Terminals-Self-stripping-Insulated-Disconnects/dp/B01CDWC60Y

All you would do to switch it over is plug the cable into the UPS first, then plug the spade connectors into the t taps, unplug the original power cable from the wall and immediately plug it into the UPS, then unplug the spade connectors and remove the adapter cable.

u/Redhook420 · 3 pointsr/ender3

Creality 3D Printer Part Limit Switch With Separate Package CNC for RAMPS 1.4 RepRap 3D Printer CR-10 10S,S4 ,S5 (Pack of 3) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07BF8KXW3/

u/stormist · 3 pointsr/Reprap

Ok so the heat bed is here:
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/200X200mm-400W-12V-w-NTC-100K-Thermistor-Keenovo-Silicone-Heater-3D-Printer-Heater-Heatbed-First-Grade/210086_32230108542.html
and the relay is here:
http://www.amazon.com/Amico-Solid-State-SSR-25-24-380V/dp/B0087ZTN08/
(thanks to BillDaCat)

Where is the metal brace thingy? (or is that part of your printer? Or the fiberglass part?)

u/mustangsal · 3 pointsr/arduino

For the OLED

Check out the mini 05, the Pico, or even the Teensy.

u/vetramiga · 3 pointsr/guitarpedals

Information Fire Hose

it's a common arcade button replacement micro switch.

if you dont have a bunch of arcade buttons sitting about and need to order a part to do the mod, get these instead: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MFRMFS6 . it will make the pedal action not snap so much, and because you don't need so much force you can put it closer to the middle if you like.

the switch is attached to the side with 1" #4-40 screws and nuts... but if you plan to gig or tour it, buy nylon lock nuts for them or the shit will fall off constantly.

the jacks I used are also stereo, and the freeze trigger is on the tip and ring to avoid chassis grounding issues affecting the audio signal path. I just used a normal aux input cable to wire it.

happy soldering :P

(edits, I hate typing on mobile)

u/ENGR001 · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

Edit: Please make sure you turn off and unplug your power supply before cutting any wires.

Parts / tool list below, this what i used but there are substitutes out there.

Note: Main thing that is slightly challenging is soldering the XT60s, basic idea is to “tin” (soldering term) the wires and the XT60s first, then heat the connector with your iron as you put the wire in to get a good fusion. Decent video on soldering them:solder XT60s


My soldering Iron:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANZRT4M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Soldering Flux:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008ZIV85A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Solder (60-40)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071G1J3W6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

New XT-60’s and Shroud:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074PN6N4K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Helping Hands (not required, but def helpful)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RB38X8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bought this a while ago, but any heat shrink will do:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MFA3OFA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wire - If you’re new to soldering and need practice, or you’re going to split your cables for Rasberry Pi, or other components, etc:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ABOPMEI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/CarbonGod · 2 pointsr/firewater

In the past I've used a large box type thing to control the heat output of my 1500w element. It got VERY VERY hot, and burnt out, because apparently i should have put a giant heatsink on the back (Why would it NOT come with one?)

Anyway....looking up motor controllers again, I see nothing but these guys. Rated at 2kw should be good for a 1500w element, but I'm not sure if PWM is a good thing, compared to plain old analog tuning. I guess it depends on the pulse width, right? 10hz compared to 0.1hz might be fine.


Edit: this is what I had which apparently is a FAN controller, and obviously analog (rheostat)

u/mdamaged · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Buy some ferrite cores (check the right diameters), wrap them around the power cable(s).

u/naughtynuts96 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I had to buy this bed sensor before I got a good level.

URBEST 8mm Detecting Distance Approach Sensor Inductive Proximity Switch NPN NO DC 6-36V Cylinder Type https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1777XK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XcBtDbJDC8Y2P

u/DarthValiant · 2 pointsr/DIY

Nice shelves. Wiring is no more scary than a circular saw. Also, forgo the wirenuts and use lever locks instead. http://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-412-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B00HIOP6SC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1395775496

u/HelpDesk7 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Everything he said is spot on. I have 4 cheap Chinese printers and those are all the recommended upgrades regardless of the brand.

I recommend this power supply. It can provide 50% more power and has a cooling fan.

These mosfets have worked very well for me and lowered bed heating times significantly as well as make your printer a lot safer.

Personally I haven't had any issues with the bed connector, but maybe some epoxy or hot glue would keep the wires from moving around too much.

One of the best upgrades I did was to flash Marlin onto the board as the stock firmware is kind of crappy.
This also allows the use of a Inductive proximity sensor which makes leveling the bed significantly easier.

The bearings he recommended, the Drylin ones, will make the movements of your printer a little smoother and a lot quieter.

The belts stretch. The ones from China are rarely reinforced. I'm lazy so i just tighten them every so often. But it would be worthwhile to just start with the higher end reinforced belts.

That aside, once your printer is up and running and somewhat calibrated, head over to thingiverse and search for your printer. There are thousands of upgrades available.

Good luck!

u/Jim-Jones · 2 pointsr/electricians

Sure. Does yours have a 2 pin or a 3 pin plug?

Something like this should work fine.

Photo of the label on the tray would help.

u/Captain-Slug · 2 pointsr/Nerf

You don't really have to adjust voltage. A PWM speed controller can be used for the same purpose (adjusting average voltage) and they're much cheaper. A 10A PWM speed controller can be purchased from Amazon for $11 shipped. Most of them will output in the same voltage you supply.

https://www.amazon.com/RioRand-trade-Upgraded-6V-90V-Controller/dp/B00F839VNQ

u/danmikita · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Yessir! Chanzon 100 pcs 2x3x4 mm White LED Diode Lights (Square Rectangle Clear Transparent DC 3V 20mA) Lighting Bulb Lamps Electronics Components Light Emitt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C5HL0PO?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

u/Thomcat316 · 2 pointsr/CarAV

Ditch the converter for a NOCO battery charger/maintainer. You will thank yourself later. This one does fine with a 55Ah AGM battery. Also, don't use a wet cell battery unless it's in its own box outside the trailer.

I like your fuse block. I fused the battery feed to mine at 30A, and sized the wire accordingly - 10AWG boat cable would be perfect. All the fuses in my Blue Sea Systems fuse block are 10A and under.

Grab some LED voltmeters and mount one inside and one near your fuses. And one in your car, and....

Unless you need a separate distro bus, I'd skip that. I am using Wago 221-415 connectors as mini bus bars as needed - run a wire from the fuse panel into the cabin, then up to four additional circuits from that point - lights, etc.

You will find that your main switch panel is less functional than you hoped it would be. I recently removed mine. Individual switches at point of contact are much more user-friendly.

We loved our Fantastic Fan, and I've heard great things about Maxx Fans, but we went back to a solid roof with vent fans in the galley bulkhead.

Multicolored LED strips are fun! We are currently installing two circuits of them in the galley. When you set yours up, make sure you install a controller with non-remote controls. We have had some of the remotes fail, and at least one of them couldn't be replaced. Superbright LEDs currently has a stunning deal on one that fit our needs.

LED strip channels are a good idea. Also get the long clips, which hang on to the channel better.

Your under-cabinet lighting is probably on a 12V wall-wart. Cut it off and hook the LED strips right into your 12V system.

For wiring, get a spool each of 22AWG, 18AWG and 14AWG tinned copper cable; molded cable (lamp cord style) is acceptable. We have used Wiremold NMW1 raceway and surface mount boxes to keep things simple and tidy. Where things turn corners we leave the wires exposed instead of going nuts with the corner and tee fittings.

u/hovissimo · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

Amateur here, but I've used https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B008FZC8F2 for my 3d printer. This won't work?

u/TheCodyBrown · 2 pointsr/simracing

URBESTAC 250V 5A SPDT 1NO 1NC... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MFRMFS6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I just used a spring I had laying around, no idea what the spring constant was. I would recommend a pretty stiff spring.

u/ylph · 2 pointsr/whatisthisthing

One exactly like yours (IR emitter or blaster, not sensor) used to come with old TiVo's - it allowed them to switch your cable box to a channel you wanted to record.

Example of a 2 headed one.

Here is how it was used.

It looks like these were also used by many different video recording devices, including VCRs and later DVRs for the same purpose (allowing it to emulate a remote control to switch your cable box to a specific channel)

Here is another similar one.

u/acutepolarbear · 2 pointsr/ender5

You're going to be looking for something like this.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BF8KXW3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Mhv4CbV5G6G18

u/elkster88 · 2 pointsr/Fixxit

If you don't have enough slack after cutting off the original connectors, just crimp butt splice some wire of the same gauge onto the loose wires you cut, then cover with glue-filled heat shrink. If you can't find uninsulated crimp splice connectors at the local store, just heat up the insulated ones with a heat gun until the plastic softens then pull the metal inside out of the plastic sleeve.

Make sure whatever Weather Pack connector you use, it's sized to accept the proper gauge wire. Trying to force larger wires into smaller gaskets and pins will ruin your project.

u/micro0637 · 2 pointsr/electricians

This picture shows a pigtail connection.

Basically, you will join all the black wires, and all the white wires together using a cap or better yet, a set of these. in those groups you will also add a new ~5" section of wire to connect the outlet.

I wouldn't suggest trying to get all 3 sets of the current wires to the outlet, because if you dont get it tight enough you have a point of failure. ARC = Fires

u/thatgermanperson · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Oh I see. Well you could just rewire it. It really isn't difficult, especially if you don't care about the looks.

Cut cables (either all or just the two you want to swap), change positions of GND and mic and attach, done.

You don't even have to solder, screw or twist the cables together if you use something like this.

u/LaughsTwice · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Here is a small diagram i threw together for soldering in an additional fan into power pads beneath the board. I have switches in here because i plan on having a switch for the part cooling fan so i can turn it off when i want to print ABS parts.

Also, get these connectors so that you only have to solder one + wire and one - wire to the mainboard, strip 11mm of wire and plug the + into one connector and the - into another connector. Now you have the ability to add 4 accessories like extra fans or LED lighting.

u/TheSov · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

i've had this problem many times.

its almost certainly that your wires are making intermittent contact. i've had to replace my bed sensor wiring and power wiring about 4 times.

once however my actual temp sensor cracked in half and i had to replace it with a 100k thermistor.

https://www.amazon.com/Gikfun-Thermistor-Temperature-Sensor-Printer/dp/B018QL5LPI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1481397650&sr=8-4&keywords=100k+thermistor
here are the thermistors and as for the wiring, if thats what it turns out to be(most likely is)

sensor wiring
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01708AYYQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

power wiring
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TG1TRL2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

i also recommend using https://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-412-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B00HIOP6SC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1481397789&sr=8-5&keywords=wago+connector

for the wiring inside the unit, so that your wiring can be replaced easily without buying a new wiring harness.

u/growawayduh · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

I'm using Cree CXB 2540's @ 3000K since i wanted better distribution and thought 3590's would be overkill (what people typically go with). Used a heatsink like this to mount each LED (with Ideal chip-lok holder, tapped two holes at 3mm and used some thermal paste) and then just wired them up to a driver using some wago connectors.

Hope that helps :)

u/bal00 · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

Hm, it's not very complicated though. If you cut the cable, there are 8 wires inside: 3 black ones, 3 yellow ones, a blue one and a red one.

You connect all the black ones and the blue one together and wire those to the negative wire of a socket like this. Then you take the three yellow ones, connect them together and wire them to the positive wire. Done.

If you're not sure how to connect the wires together, these are more or less perfect for the job. Maybe you can find them locally.

u/fearthelettuce · 2 pointsr/bassfishing

Credit to this youtube video for the idea: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xfy2Ae_9tTQ

I've been trying to find a way to Texas rig a Ned Rig to make it weedless and have had trouble finding some affordable light wire hooks with a bait keeper. I found the above linked youtube video and tried it out this evening and it seems to work great! I picked up a variety pack of heat shrink tubing from Harbor Freight for $5. The smallest size, 5/64", worked best and you could definitely go smaller to 1/16" or maybe 3/34" and it might even hold a bit tighter. I tried it with a TRD and it worked fine, I just cut the top/outer corner so it was easier to get the plastic over

Sorry if this is old news but just wanted to share this very cheap way of adding a bait keeper.

Edit: I just looked on Amazon and found this pack of heat shrink tubing: https://www.amazon.com/Ginsco-270Pcs-Shrink-Adhesive-Tubing/dp/B073R69KNB/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525832477&sr=8-3&keywords=adhesive+lined+heat+shrink+tubing+1%2F16 I would expect that it would work better being a 3:1 shrink ratio and also is adhesive lined which I don't think the HF tubing has.

u/MrSurly · 2 pointsr/electronics


Facts as I understand them (which may not match reality):

  • You have a battery pack that has a barrel jack (female)
  • The polarity of the battery pack barrel jack (knick knack patty whack) is positive center
  • You have a device with a barrel jack
  • The polarity of the device's barrel jack is negative center.
  • You have a double-ended wire with barrel plugs (male) on both ends that is currently wired "straight through"; i.e. center connected to center, outside connected to outside.
  • This wire fits both the battery and the device physically.

    If all of the above are true:

  • Look closely at the wire. It's likely (though not certain) that one wire has a white stripe, or a ridge or some other identifier. If it does not, mark one of the wires (with a sharpie, or similar) along it's entire length, or otherwise ensure that you can identifiy the wires after you cut them.
  • Cut the wire. I usually give myself some space; DO NOT cut the wire right next to the barrel plug.
  • How you re-connect the wires depends on your available tools, supplies, and skill. The best would be to put heat-shrink on each conductor, on one side, do an inline soldered splice, then slide the heat shrink down over the new connection and shrink it. Or you could use insulation displacement connectors ("IDC"), wire nuts, or even crimp connectors (crimping can be surprisingly hard to get right). Under no circumstances should you use black "electrical" tape. Wire nuts are probably the easiest, provided you get the correct size, but are ugly and bulky.

    And finally to answer your question:

    Only do the wire swap once. If you have a ohmmeter, you can check this by confirming that the outside of one end is electrically connected to the inside of the other. You should also confirm that the outside and inside are not connected to each other, or else you're going to have a bad time.




    P.S. Barrel connector is also known as a coaxial power connector.
u/golden_in_seattle · 2 pointsr/arduino

> I use a RTC break-out chip for keeping track of time

As I mentioned in my other post, I first tried this route and gave up. I just let the "real" home automation controller do the scheduling as it was significantly easier to make schedule changes.

One other thing I should have mentioned that you might want to include just because why not.... Get a one-wire temperature probe like this one and wire it up to a display like this. If you do go the home automation route, you can "broadcast it" so to speak using a plugin like this.

BTW, if you don't want to live in the apple ecosystem, there is also HomeAssistant (/r/homeassistant). You can run it on a raspberry pi. I'm pretty sure there is also equivalents for whatever google's home automation solution is but I can't speak to that...

u/fustercluck · 2 pointsr/RTLSDR

Longer antenna cables are always a better idea than longer USB. To do it right, use an amplifier like this on a short cable right after the antenna, but before a long cable run.

To be clear, like this: Antenna -> short cable to amplifier -> amplifier -> long cable to SDR.

USB cables can be chained together to make really long ones, but you get into timing errors and induced noise if you go longer than 16.5 feet. And then, you're really not sure if what you're hearing is real, or an artifact (induced).

u/AlchlcFraggingMachin · 2 pointsr/lockpicking

A few weeks ago I used the marine heat shrink on my sparrows picks since I didnt have any success with Plasti Dip. I does feel nice, and I don't think ive lost any feedback or sensitivity on them.

For anyone who's interested here's what I used, I just needed to trim them to the appropriate length:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073R69KNB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/tmprof · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

This was actually fairly easy to setup and only cost about $8 and 30 mins of my time.

First you need to order an Inductive Sensor:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008FZC8F2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then I printed out a new sensor mount and glued it right next to my hot end.

Then in the Marlin Firmware, I enabled the auto bed leveling code and flashed the Arduino board. Next I set the boundaries of my bed and where I wanted the sensor to check. All you have to do is twist the sensor up and down to adjust how close the hot end is to the bed. After the sensor was mounted, you just plug the brown wire to +12v and the blue wire to ground. The Black wire goes to the signal pin on the z-min endstop. Supposedly you need to solder in some resistors inline (the youtube video below explains it) to lower the voltage being sent to the ramps, but mine works fine without the modification.

Now I never have to worry about the nozzle being to close / too far from the bed...

Here's a great youtube video that helped me get it all setup:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcGFLwj0pnA

u/budude2 · 2 pointsr/ADSB

It's this one. I run antenna -> Band Pass Filter -> Amp -> SDR

u/AsleepOnTheTrain · 2 pointsr/xboxone

I had one IR emitter that didn't work, and then a different one did. I kind of thought they were universal, but maybe not?

Anyway, the one that worked for me was this one: http://amzn.com/B0054MAVXA

u/Xombie11 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Thanks for the detailed write-up on your safety mods!!

I've seen Solid State relays recommended over/instead of the MOSFETs you linked to. e.g. something like this but rated at 25A.

However I'm having trouble deciding which one on Amazon is compatible. Would I need one that is DC to AC or DC to DC?

Like would this one be appropriate? Or this one?

I'm looking at Amazon only because they ship from the US and I'm hoping to have a Mosfet or SSR in hand by next week.

EDIT: Doing some more research, it seems like one of these is what I need? Amazon results for SSR-40DD The recommended brands are Fotek, Auber and Crydom.

u/scratchr · 1 pointr/headphones

I don't know if your IEMs are different, but when some older ones I had failed, there was no good way to access the cable. (The unit was press/glue fitted together. From a quick search, the ones you have don't look much better.) I recommend that you buy a soldering iron kit and solder the wire back together instead of replacing the cable. Heat shrink tubing is recommended to prevent the same cable from failing in that location again.

Those cables are covered in varnish, so twist them together and then use the soldering iron to burn off the varnish while you solder the two wires together. If using heat shrink, use 2 layers: one for the inner wires, then one for the entire cable. You can shrink heat shrink with a lighter or a heat gun.

u/schmogramming · 1 pointr/HVAC

So a router speed controller would not work?

What about a device like this?

https://www.amazon.com/TruePower-Electronic-Stepless-Controller-Brush-type/dp/B009KAEP7A

u/Matthew1581 · 1 pointr/RTLSDR

I simply used the HiLetGo model which is .100 KHz to 2 Ghz. I enclosed it, mounted 2 connectors for the case, and a knob to vary the voltage from 12v to 5v providing adjustable gain depending on the need. I didn’t design the preamp or anything, just made it look a little more professional. Here’s the link for the amplifier. The case was taken from my old cell phone site I dismantled but I’m sure there are other aluminum cases out there.

u/baitisj · 1 pointr/amateurradio

Also pick up something like https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-0-1-2000MHz-Wide-Amplifier-Noise/dp/B01N2NJSGV or an LNA4HF / LNA4ALL if you want much better performance. :-)

u/eatgoodneighborhood · 1 pointr/woodworking

How wide is your maple? Something to consider: I have a 12" 5hp Belsaw planer at my shop in Hagerstown, I'd be willing to give you access to for lumber trade. Also, I noticed you need a motor for your lathe, I have 4 electric motors that I don't use, I think most have pulleys. I purchased this a while ago as a speed controller, it works great.

Those slabs sound amazing. How did you get those milled?

u/ejo4041 · 1 pointr/woodworking

>How wide is your maple? Something to consider: I have a 12" 5hp Belsaw planer at my shop in Hagerstown, I'd be willing to give you access to for lumber trade. Also, I noticed you need a motor for your lathe, I have 4 electric motors that I don't use, I think most have pulleys. I purchased this a while ago as a speed controller, it works great.

>Those slabs sound amazing. How did you get those milled?

I also have a 12" planer. Some of the board are over 18 or 20. I think I'll be ripping most of them down anyways. Thanks for the offer on the motor, I recently picked up 2. I just need to get a belt that fits now.
The slabs I had done by 2griffins. They had an Alaskan chainsaw mill. That was really cool to watch. If you ever want to come see some of it, let me know.

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/AskReddit

An alternative possibility to rogue radio stations and smart meters along the same mien - but a bit harder to find out - you could live near an amateur radio operator.

Amateur packet radio can sound similar to the noises linked above as it's a digital data communication.

Plus, if you are based in the US, amateurs are allowed to transmit at up to 1500 watts of power, (more power than your average microwave oven) so it could make your speakers go crazy at close range without them even being turned on.

The downside to your situation, is that as long as the local ham is operating legally, there isn't much you can do about it. Your speakers would be type-certified as following FCC Part 15 rules while their amateur setup follows FCC part 97 rules - your speakers legally have to receive the interference generated by such a setup and they legally don't have to do anything to help you resolve your interference issue (if this is the case).

However, most hams are friendly people (aside from always talking about their antennas too much) and if this were the case, and you could locate your local ham, they'd probably be more than happy to help you resolve your interference issue.

Also, if you wanted to see if you can stop the interference through filtering yourself, you could put a broadband RF choke on your power cord to filter out any interference coming in through the mains. In fact, even if it isn't a ham doing this, it might help solve the problem.

Some sound samples of amateur digital transmission modes are available here so you can compare.

I've experienced the interference firsthand myself, by being an operator. If I key up in the lower HF bands, my touch lamp will flicker and cycle, my speakers will all buzz, even my subwoofer that is turned off in sleep mode will wake up and start buzzing like there is no tomorrow, and that is on anywhere from just 5-100 watts of output power!

u/brict · 1 pointr/razer

Nonononono. No aluminum foil.

First, you'll need some heat shrink tubing of the appropriate size.

http://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools-SHRINK-SLEEVES-ASSORTED/dp/B005W42SW2/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1463080614&sr=8-7&keywords=heat+shrink+tubing

Then, you should trim the cable a bit on both ends to clean up the messy ends.

Next, cut open the cable sleeve the wires are in, and strip the ends of the wires. Put a piece of shrink wrap tubing large enough to fit on the outside of the entire cable along one end of the cable. You'll use that later.

Then, you'll have cables that look like this

}=]--

} is the sheath

= is the covered wire

] is where you stripped the wire

-- is the naked wire

Take one of the wire, and push the shrink wrap tubing up it. Then, take the two stripped ends of matching wire and solder them together so that they overlap a bit.

}=]-@--@-[={

@ are the solder points

Move the shrink wrap tubing over the soldered wire and hit it with a hair dryer until it tightly covers the exposed wire.

Do that with each of the wires. Test that the cable works.

Once you have confirmed it is working, take the shrink wrap tubing you put over the whole cable sheath, bring it over area that no longer has sheathing (where your wires were soldered and shrink wrapped) and hit the tubing with a hair dryer to seal it up.

You should be good to go. I left out the mesh tubing or additional insulation for the newly heat shrunk wires, but you could add that as well - not something I am familiar with.

u/AffableGent · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

That's helpful. The relays are rated 10A t0 12A so the current is less than I'd assumed. I mean it should be less than the rating of the relay... big assumption, perhaps. It puts the current in the range of some low voltage PWM speed controllers sold on Amazon. My concern is the lower voltage is 6V and you need it to run down to 5-5.5V will it work? https://www.amazon.com/RioRandTM-Upgraded-6V-90V-Motor-Controller/dp/B00F839VNQ Better than a resistor if i works, depends on how much of a project you want to make of it.

u/BootsC5 · 1 pointr/Chromecast

I'd like a solution too. I've added ferrite cores (https://www.amazon.com/Ferrite-Core-Cord-Noise-Suppressor/dp/B0002MQGE0) to the supplied audio cable and I still get hissing and popping.

u/bigj231 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Any wire you have will work. You can even use some spare CAT5 or cut up one of those telephone cords you seem to get with everything. Then just get a momentary switch. If you can solder, the rest is stupid easy.

To avoid trying to find connectors and crimp them, I would just extend the wires. If you don't want to mess with them, buy some scotchlok splices: http://smile.amazon.com/UY2-3M-Scotchlok-Butt-Connector-Pack/dp/B0076AY6J8 Just shove the 2 wires in and pinch with pliers. Takes longer to cut the wires than it does to splice them. If you talk nice to the installer for your internet/phone, he may have some that will fall off the truck.

u/nicholas040 · 1 pointr/headphones

I have the same setup! I have q701's, so I hang them by the top wires.

I had some heat shrink that I put over the metal, just to give it a little extra protection from rubbing.

u/AXISMGT · 1 pointr/teslamotors

Nice find Op!

Might want to look into heat shrink the keep those clips together.

Ginsco 580 pcs 2:1 Heat Shrink Tube 6 Colors 11 Sizes Tubing Set Combo Assorted Sleeving Wrap Cable Wire Kit for DIY https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MFA3OFA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uU53AbJP0KQHA

u/flootr · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Yep, I soldered the LEDs myself. I used the Chanzon Rectangular 2x3x4mm LEDs (recommended by I:C) here which are available from Amazon or AliExpress.

u/briellie · 1 pointr/techsupport

Random shot in the dark, but...

Get yourself pone of these (or something similar - can always yank one off of an old power cord too) and wrap the USB wire through the center of the core twice.

Its possible there's some interference traveling down the ground wire/shield and into the speakers even if its not an analog audio connection.

Try a front USB port instead of a back one, or vice versa.

There is also the possibility that the card is dragging the system down and not giving the USB chipset enough resources to handle the audio stream. Try updating drivers for the USB device as well.

u/r0ll3rb0t · 1 pointr/buildapc

I say NVIDIA because you can use VDPAU in Linux. I have a GT430 w/ 1gb ram that uses the card to decode all my video in Ubuntu (I use both XBMC and MythTV) Its very easy to use once you have the drivers installed.

VA-API is what (I believe) AMD and Intel use. I have never used this, but from what i've read its not easy to setup.

I am not against using Windows for HTPC, I just recall having major problems getting everything the way I wanted. I'm currently looking at building a second HTPC, and I might need to go Windows because I want to ditch my cables boxes and switch to a HDPrime/Cablecard.

Some audio notes; you need to use either HDMI or optical S/PDIF to your TV/Reciever. If you use the 1/8" audio outs, you will most likely receive a ground loop hum. You can reduce this by putting ferrite cores (chokes) around all the audio cables. This should help reduce the crappy sound you'll get. I only use HDMI and S/PDIF because of this.

Hope this helps.

u/google_fu_is_whatIdo · 1 pointr/ebikes
u/andreophile · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I have this exact set from Amazon. You'll need the 1.5 mm (approx 1/16") heatshrink tubing from the set. My original comment has a link to the tutorial, which mentions the dimensions as well.

u/swissarmyfight · 1 pointr/3Dprinting
u/LiL_BrOwNiE247 · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

I actually haven't figured out which specific LEDs to get, I've only narrowed down which profile to get (went with 2x3x4 as they have more uniform lighting than 3 mm diamater ones). I'm open to any suggestions if you have any, otherwise I was going to get whatever's readily available like this.

u/bwilliam38 · 1 pointr/RTLSDR

Thanks everyone for your insight, this is the LNA I picked up off of Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-0-1-2000MHz-Wide-Amplifier-Noise/dp/B01N2NJSGV/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494182132&sr=8-1&keywords=low+noise+amplifier

So far I have to say I'm not seeing much improvement with terrestrial signals from it. I was actually comparing local FM stations with it vs just a basic antenna and it actually seems to be 10 DB less with the LNA powered by 4 AA batteries.

I should be seeing stronger FM signals with the LNA plugged in correct?

u/Comedyfight · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Honestly, that's sort of my biggest hangup. I don't even own a soldering iron, and if I get one, I'll need to practice on junk electronics before I try to do something I can use. I do have a bunch of these though.

https://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-412-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B00HIOP6SC/ref=lp_16347583011_1_1?srs=16347583011&ie=UTF8&qid=1499343102&sr=8-1

u/uncutflguy · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

The connectors he used are 3M Scotchlok IDC connectors. They make wiring stupid easy, and I actually used them on my printer's replacement fan because I was lazy. You just slide red in, and red out into one, and crimp with pliers. Same for the ground wires. No wire stripping needed.

u/SmileAndDonate · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners


Info | Details
----|-------
Amazon Product | 3M Scotchlok IDC Butt Connector, 100 Pack Yellow
>Amazon donates 0.5% of the price of your eligible AmazonSmile purchases to the charitable organization of your choice. By using the link above you get to support a chairty and help keep this bot running through affiliate programs all at zero cost to you.

u/Crailberry · 1 pointr/ECE
u/Yago20 · 1 pointr/Phillylist

If I'm understanding your issue correctly, someone in the past cut out the plastic connector that would fit into the stock unit, leaving you with just wires. If that is the case, you will need a meter to help you figure out the wires. in a pinch, a 9 volt battery can be used to figure out which speaker is which (really not good for the speaker, but it does work).
Strip the ends of all wires and twist them together. Electrical tape works in a pinch, as do wire nuts, but really I'd opt for heat shrink tubing cut to size before you twist the wires together. A hair dryer should work to shrink the tubing since you probably don't have a heat gun lying around the house.

u/Gliese581Visitor · 1 pointr/CR10



You can replace the sensor. This is courtesy of Jason Cook; sign up on facebook for the CR-10S user group and you can read his entire post there!

"Having trouble leveling the CR-10s Pro? Is the leveling sensor not repeatable and leaving you with bad first layers? Here is my solution:

  1. Replace the leveling probe with an inductive probe. This one is a direct fit, all you have to do is install a new connector or change the connector from your old sensor. $8.99 on Amazon.

    URBEST 8mm Detecting Distance... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1777XK…

  1. Install the Tiny Machines firmware. Search this group for more details.

    The probe is extremely repeatable and does not seem to be significantly affected by temperature or humidity. I have mine set so that it detects the bed 2mm high and then the tiny Machines firmware remembers the offset on a power cycle. It nails the first layer every time and when probing the bed, the nozzle is high enough that it does not leave plastic dots on the bed. I was always having to tinker with the old sensor settings and had a lot of bad prints. Now, I just hit print and it works perfectly every time.

    I hope this helps. I love printing with my CR-10S Pro now."
u/benmarvin · 1 pointr/Welding

Find yourself an old fan motor or an old plug in drill and hook it up with something like this http://www.amazon.com/TruePower-Electronic-Stepless-Controller-Brush-type/dp/B009KAEP7A

u/InTherapy · 1 pointr/homedefense

3M Scotchlok IDC Butt Connector, 100 Pack Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0076AY6J8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_nUp4BbHPMPP0X

u/TurnbullFL · 1 pointr/electrical

Wago lever nuts are the way to go.

I'll even give you a link to the 5 port ones:
20 Amp 5 port.
30 Amp 5 port.

u/bigbadmax · 1 pointr/ender3

Hmm, I guess it does not. Sorry about that. I did a little more searching and found https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BF8KXW3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-1e4CbGSD477R this one had some comments that people used it on an ender 3. Doesn’t come with cables though :(

u/brick872 · 1 pointr/arduino

I'm thinking this is the route I need to go. With the relay I'm powering a single 120V 500 watt heating element but had considered adding a second element to add redundancy and cover if somehow room temp were to drop so low a single element couldn't output enough heat. I don't think that's an issue though since one element seems to be able to maintain the correct temp even around 50F in my shop. If I'm figuring this right that should need a little more 4 amps to power it correct? I see this relay that is rated at 25 amps so I'm thinking it should work fine for no more than I'm doing even if I do add a second element. Thoughts?

u/backupthetruck · 1 pointr/boating

The 7-pin connector is specifically for trailers with brakes or other power requirements. The 4-pin connectors control lights only, the extra pins on the 7-pin actuate the breaks and provide extra power for things like charging breakaway boxes or running RV refrigerators.

Being a 40-foot trailer, I don't see how there is any way that it would not weigh enough to require brakes, no matter the state. There would be no way to rewire the trailer to use a 4-pin connector and actuate the brakes. Even having a 7-pin connector on the truck would be no guarantee that the brakes are being actuated - most require an aftermarket brake controller be wired in.

If you are comfortable with the lack of braking and just need to do short pulls, it would be a relatively simple process to parallel a 4-pin connector onto the 7-pin trailer wiring so that you could at least have lights. Something like this:

https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Wesbar/W787268.html?feed=npn&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiPG_r8G_4AIVQ1YNCh3MwwHPEAQYASABEgKr5_D_BwE

with these

https://www.amazon.com/Ginsco-Terminals-Self-stripping-Insulated-Disconnects/dp/B01CDWC60Y

​

Your lights would work and you'd avoid the attention of the fuzz, but I'd be careful about running around without brakes on a 40-foot trailer very often.

Good luck!

​

EDIT: I ran across this that would solve your problem too, I think. A little clunkier, but plug and play. Same issue with not actually having brakes, though.

https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Mighty-Cord/A10-7084VP.html

u/sitefall · 1 pointr/vandwellers

Haven't built van yet, but for both my current car and truck I have a little garmin like this that has no monthly fees or anything and all it does is GPS, using free google maps.


The benefit to me is that I absolutely do not want touch-screen controls in a car for AC and things like that, it's just another thing to go wrong, and I mount it right here (sorry too lazy to go take a pic to I drew it) where it's invisible to anyone looking at the car due to tinted side windows to the darkest legal limit. I do not have to connect/disconnect my phone, I don't need a little cradle taking up my windshield, and I can glance over at it just fine. I have one mounted in the "top" glove box of my tundra as well and that one is super hidden. I did it first so I even put a cheap microswitch on the door that turns on the device when it opens.


If they ever break, who cares? Buy a new one they are dirt cheap. No fiddling with phones, nothing sitting on the dash, and concealing it I think might help against people breaking in. Even though they are only like $50, there's bound to be someone out there who thinks they are more valuable or would break the glass for $50.

u/lxlqlxl · 1 pointr/folgertech

Wow.. this is easily the longest reply I have ever gotten. I have replied much longer before but yeah.. Not complaining at all thanks for taking the time to write it. I will reply as I read through.

Wiring for me I have never been all that hesitant to. I have been hit with 120 a few times and it's mainly a burn for me. The one that really surprised me though was taking apart a blender and well I had shorts on and you can touch one wire and be fine just not both unless you and the wiring are grounded of course. Anyway I was on my bed and one wire was touching my leg and the other I grabbed with my hand... So that was an interesting experience.

I am the type that will take one of those cigarette lighters that electric spark? take off the guard, put your thumb over it and go... clicky clicky...

As for the JST bit I appreciate the links. I am familiar with them and how to do that I just never have. I would need a reason to get them, maybe this is it? But the wago or other lever type connectors seem to be easier and or cheaper. I will figure it out when it gets here.

> personally I mangled the connector housings and pins on my stepper cables trying to swap pins over.

Yeah I think you need the pin remover. I was watching a few youtube videos about it, and well here I believe is the one I watched. Relevant portion is at the 7:05 mark https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RhU0D7fDR98 It's called an extraction tool, or extractor. There are quite a few different ones for different applications. If I got into solderless pin connections that's one of the things I would buy.

So for me going that kind of connector route would be about 10 or so for the extractor, 20 for the crimper, maybe 10 or so for the connectors. But let's say it was just 30 or so total. Ok... or I could go with the wago lever connectors for 15 and could splice 50 sets of wires that could be undone with a flick of a lever. It's not as nice looking as a connector but it's still doable. Also knowing me, I'd still throw some heat shrink tubing onto the crimped pins. But I already have that and a heat gun.

>Building a cat proof mdf enclosure for the printer so I can take it home within the next month or so is on the cards.

I plan on copying the corner bracing and modifying those. Well I want to replace all the melamine parts eventually but yeah. The idea would be to modify those in a way I could easily attach side and top panels. Likely something like 1/4" plexi glass. I don't like how the socket caps stick out, so I would use countersunk screws to make the screw head flush with the printed brace. Then either on the back side hollow out a section for a neodymium magnet for each corner and do the same for the plexiglass, or maybe thumbscrews? Or possibly just make it so it's like the side of a PC case where it slides in and out The top would likely be semi permanent and attached with screws but the sides would be like just slide the panel up and take it off that way. The front maybe the same way or use hinges or whatever. I don't think I will print any ABS I hear enclosures could help with that. My main reason for doing it is dust. Dust I hear can mess up prints so keeping it enclosed may help with the quality.

For me an MDF enclosure would be really easy to do, I may do that as a frame then attach plexi to the outside and just have a box that goes over it? but that to me seems like cheating and or wasted space... also no challenge. I like challenging myself so unless I absolutely need it and I can't figure out the other bit then maybe? But what I have in mind should be relatively easy to do.

About the router stand... Looks good, but I must admit when I read "router", I thought of like an actual router well the woodworking kind.

The CTC-3D clone? or? I haven't looked into those so I am not very familiar. I am mainly interested in kits not fully working right out of the box... and you answered that later in the post... nice.

The fan bit. I plan on tinkering around a lot with that well the shroud bit. I have thought of an experiment to try to test out which ones are better, and I will throw in different speeds, different nozzles as well and document the process. I will take a few that others have designed, and design some of my own to see how they differ in performance. The test will be of multiple prints of a similar object, essentially 2 poles at varying distances, like half an inch up to say 3 to 5 inches or however long to see how far each can bridge the gap with little to no sagging. Then maybe ledges at varying lengths.

As for the V6 clone bit. I already bought one of these J-Head V6 Bowden and an MK8 Bowden feeder. I primarily got those to see if I like the bowden setup over the direct. If I find out I like the direct I will probably get this. If I like the bowden bit I think I could still get that one and just change out the heat sink and use the other bits. Either or fun times ahead.

>Or even the new e3d aero if you don't want v6 style eating into your build height.

If I need more build height, I can just get some longer rods, and some longer 2020's and extend it out. My main thing is I wanted 12"^2, since this is like 15.75" unless it takes 3.75" more of build height away I don't think I will fret too much.

>Definitely use the stock for a few months

A few months is an eternity for me. Maybe it will take that long to get built and dialed in? Who knows... Either or... the plan is to get the printer from kit form built and working and at least functional with prints. The only "change" will likely be with a 12x12 glass or mirror bed. Once it's up and running and I have a base to work from that I know works. Then I will change it over to bowden with the ones I linked and try that out for a while. Then decide whether I want to get the e3d one or not. The only reason I'd get the e3d one is the socks which I could buy seperate and the hotend tube. If I could find that bit seperate I probably wouldn't buy the complete kit. I know I can buy the "clone" version but the teflon tube is used as a liner and I'd like it to potentially be able to get up to around 300c without worrying about that liner melting. I also plan on getting some stainless nozzles and maybe... just maybe one of the tungsten ones. Not necessarily to use with this printer but likely the one that I design and build after this one. Think multiple independent extruders(not sharing the same block), and large... er build volume. I won't get too much into that idea right now though.

>I'd say the z axis rods are the one part of this built machine that is a little more difficult to access/disassemble easily

Yeah I'd say that looks fair. But that's also one of the selling points for me. That design looks rock solid. Even with the shitty melamine. I think once you get the binding figured out on the Z and have an idea how to do it regularly it will become less and less of a pain. As for the threaded and smooth rods, and only the threaded need to be somewhat loose? I heard it was pretty much all of them until it was aligned properly. Try loosening all of them up a little bit. Running it to the top and bottom then go to the top, tighten things down then down to the bottom then tighten. That should resolve any binding. From my understanding at least. It doesn't seem like you have tried that approach yet.

>TBH the melamine parts aren't that terrible.

Well for me I am not hugely against it but yeah. They work just not for my liking. I was initially hoping they would be actual solid melamine. But it looks like it is actually a melamine coating on top of low quality mdf. If it was actual melamine it would be a lot harder and wouldn't crush that easily. Actual melamine is a lot closer to a plastic than what that appears to be. Here in the states at least melamine is commonly put over particle board for counter tops. It's good so long as you don't get water on the edges as it will eventually swell.

As for the bracing... I assume you have home improvement stores there? If so try to find some of these if you don't want to print out new ones. Just figure out the dimensions you want with those flat corner braces and use those. You may need slightly smaller M5's but those are pretty cheap as well. Or if you have a grinder... you could knock a few MM off the ones you have.

>standard board will do the job just fine. The lure of touch/colour screens for 32 bit SBase boards isn't really for me.

I don't think I will go the touch screen route designed for these, If I go that route I will likely add wifi capability, and add a small tablet with browser functionality ;)... The reason for me, for 32 bit is 1/128 stepping, as well as quieter motors, and can be more complex without the program stuttering due to not being able to keep up with the needed calculations. With that I plan on trying to see the maximum print speed I can get and still get decent quality. Just to give you an idea. I plan on bolting it down to a heavy surface due to the inertia of the motors going side to side to keep it rock solid, that may give you an idea on how fast I am planning on cranking this or the next one up to, and yes I know I will likely need better motors and or stronger drivers and crank up the current. Maybe even a stouter belt system? Enclosed chain perhaps? Or longitudinal setup like this? http://www.technicopedia.com/8094/8094-2longitudinal.jpg, well without the extra bits.

As for the USB bit I am going to tinker around with that and SD card, I have a spare laptop I don't really use I can use for that purpose.

u/siwel69 · 1 pointr/whatisthisthing

TiVo 2 Head IR Emitter / Blaster
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0054MAVXA

u/KinkbythePound · 1 pointr/CagedAndFucked
u/IncredulousDesire · 1 pointr/SexToys

I've had good luck with a router speed controller. You can find them at most hardware stores for very little money.

u/ZorzStudios · 1 pointr/DIY

Forgive me if it sounds ignorant: is junction recommended for safety/neatness or is it a technical must, as opposed to twist-on wire nuts I thought of using? If it's a must, would it be something like these (terminal blocks):

https://www.amazon.com/Wago-221-415-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B06XH47DC2
https://www.galco.com/buy/Bussmann/TB100-04

I'll mount the sticks on the outside of the rim, bringing the wires along the spokes to the center of the wheel.

u/popodelfuego · 1 pointr/Miata

Oh those wire into the daytime running lights and the turn signal. I used these to make splicing easy. On mine the green wire is the turn signal and the red wire is the DRL, black is ground.

u/timmit99 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

They can be bought cheep, on amazon. You COULD look for just the switch (Looks like a KW11 style microswitch) if you wanted to but you would have to be comfortable with soldering/desoldering to install it.

Might be worth getting the 3 pack linked above as the lever you replaced probably wont last on the switch so it would be better to replace both now and have a spare.

u/PhoenixFlRe · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Try homing the X axis. And before it finishes homing, press the limit switch (looks like https://www.amazon.com/Creality-3D-Printer-Separate-Package/dp/B07BF8KXW3). It should stop immediately since pressing that switch tells the board that the X has hit the end. If it stops, then the carriage might not be hitting the switch. If it doesn't stop, then check your wires first and then try using the switch from the Y or Z axis instead to see if it's a board, cable, or switch issue.

u/jamvanderloeff · 1 pointr/buildapc

Extending the cables to the left/right speakers is easy, any regular speaker wire is fine. To join together permanently I'd solder the new wire on and heatshrink. Or for removable I'd use spring connectors like this https://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-412-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B00HIOP6SC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503640678&sr=8-1&keywords=wago+connector

u/YamesIsAnAss · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

Something like this should work. Just don't turn it past 60% or so.

u/the_real_sasquatch · 1 pointr/microgrowery

Its very easy to wire these up. The first image at this link shows a good way to wire them. To do it that way, you need 10 Wago 221-415 lever nuts.

You can use thermal tape to attach the strips to your aluminum frame, if you don't want to drill a bunch of holes. That makes it a little easier to assemble.

Definitely do it yourself. If you have any questions, post them on here, or in the forums on LEDBuilder.com, and someone will help you get it wired up.

When I said "not much room for error", I meant that if one or two strips get disconnected, the driver will deliver more power to the remaining strips than their max rating. That is very unlikely to happen. So, don't worry about it much. Just make sure all your connections are good before you power it up.

u/Raider1284 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

an $8 inductive sensor also just plugs into the z-endstop, but you would have to solder the connection on yourself. https://www.amazon.com/URBEST-Detecting-Distance-Inductive-Proximity/dp/B01M1777XK

But if you want something plug and play get a BL Touch: https://www.amazon.com/BLTouch-Leveling-Sensor-Premium-Printer/dp/B01FFV2TOS

with all of these options you have to update and flash the firmware to enable and allow autoleveling.

u/Yodiddlyyo · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

No problem!

This

Look it up on thingiverse, too. Tons of mounts for it that you can print out. You'll see them on pretty much everyone's head.

u/Drackeo · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

So one like this or this work? Whats the difference between the two?

u/blahlicus · 1 pointr/Blahlicus

Hey, thanks for asking the question, for your information, base model Diverge TM 2s do not have LEDs, when purchasing a Diverge TM 2, there is an option to add LEDs but it costs extra.

I believe that you are part of the group of people that got upgraded from Diverge TM 1 orders to Diverge TM 2 right? In this case, your order was upgraded to the Diverge TM 2 without LEDs. (I think that is fair, the base model Diverge TM 2 already costs more for me to manufacture than the Diverge TM 1 and should cost extra but the upgrade was free)

For your information, if you wish to add your own LEDs at a later date, then you could look for "2x3x4 box type" LEDs, and "0805 resistors" or "1/8w resistors" for what you need.

Below is an example shopping list of stuff from amazon to get white backlights set up:

u/Tantric989 · 1 pointr/recording

I'm using a 2i2 and not having any issues like this. I just tested it, and even with using a Shure SM58 (very different mic, SM58 is a vocal mic) and plugging in my acoustic electric the first few seconds of the track are completely silent on both channels.

I'm not much of an expert here but you may have either electronic or literal background noise. I used to run a Dean Markley Soundhole pickup to amp my acoustic guitar and it would have interference, and I just picked up a couple of ferrite cores from RadioShack for like $5. They seem like some kind of magic, but the magnetic ferrite core just snapped onto the line cord fixed my problem. You can find them on Amazon for like $4.

http://www.amazon.com/Ferrite-Core-Cord-Noise-Suppressor/dp/B0002MQGE0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1449275303&sr=8-4&keywords=ferrite+core+1%2F4%22

The second thing may just be the fans on the laptop or anything else in the room. I'd try changing the power settings on the laptop to low power, that uses less energy and will spin the fans at lower rpm making them quieter.

Finally, I'd try the Line and INST selector switches as I think that might be part of your problem. I'm not much of an expert, but here's the manual page on the two options.

> The front panel input sockets are Neutrik Combo®, which accept either an XLR male connector (you
will probably have one on the end of your microphone cable) or a ¼” (6.35 mm) jack plug. Note the
Scarlett 2i2 has no “Mic/line” switch – the Focusrite preamplifier stage is automatically configured
for a microphone when you plug an XLR into the input, and for a line or instrument when you connect
a jack plug. Set the LINE/INST switch next to the socket to INST if you are connecting a musical
instrument (a guitar in the example) via an ordinary 2-pole (TS) guitar jack, or to LINE if you are
connecting a line level source such as the balanced output of a stage piano via a 3-pole (TRS) jack.
Note the Combo connector accepts both TRS and TS types of jack plug.

I'm fairly sure if you're using the SM57 mic it's using an XLR connector, what you definitely don't want is some kind of adapter that changes it from XLR (the three prong cord) to a 2-prong TS or TRS jack. XLR is a balanced cable and shouldn't have as many problems with interference. It seems like with XLR it doesn't matter what the selector switch is set at.

Hope this helps, good luck.

u/smallfeet_HUGETOES · 1 pointr/microgrowery

They are pc fans. I guess I am trying to find out if it is possible to use 2 of the 12v 1Amp drivers to run 3 fans at 12v and 666mA, instead of 1 driver that is currently running them at 12v 333mA to each fan. -- and keep from hitting them with 24v.

I am using wago connectors for my wiring. So if I just plugged in an additional driver, would this double the overall output to 24v 2Amps, or does it stay at 12v and just double the Amperage since each driver is only putting out 12v. ??

u/btalbot85 · 1 pointr/arduino

Something like this I would think, you will just need to search out one rated for your voltage req. RioRand™ Upgraded 6V-90V 15A DC Motor Pump Speed Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F839VNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TuI3Db0B6842P

u/silverbluephoenix · 1 pointr/olkb

I bought the greeen lens colored ones here https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C5HL0PO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uGOUzb3PT6PTV The green colored lens is rated 2.3 V and the clear one is rated 3.1 V so i ordered the clear one, and waiting for them.

The green lenses looked really pretty with kaihua golds, but the light was so faint, that yau couldnt see the green at all with the keycaps. I tried with a couple other leds (white, orange, blue lens) that i have of the same brand and they shine just ok.

u/Wulf6489 · 1 pointr/gifs

I would say about $25-$30 with parts and everything. Once you have the code for one, putting it on others would be quick and simple. It would be a good option for future projects as well since you could just add other things to the board.

Screen

Temp sensor

u/desertsail912 · 1 pointr/AskReddit

PLT: If your aglet breaks or otherwise comes off, you can repair it by cutting a piece of that plastic wire cover that shrinks when you heat it. This stuff.

u/itsjustchad · 1 pointr/fixit

I use both this and heatshrink when I want a water tight seal.


Also pro tip for ya, you will need a 3:1 heatshrink if you have to go over a head phone jack.


https://www.amazon.com/Ginsco-270Pcs-Shrink-Adhesive-Tubing/dp/B073R69KNB/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=3%3A1+Heat+Shrink&qid=1555176527&s=industrial&sr=1-3

u/HowSR · 1 pointr/electricians

So like a “vampire tooth”-connector?

Ginsco 120 Pcs/60 Pairs Quick Splice Wire Terminals T-Tap Self-stripping with Nylon Fully Insulated Male Quick Disconnects Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CDWC60Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XIlTCbG08V4HF

u/Linguist208 · 1 pointr/whatisthisthing

Yep, a TiVo IR Blaster transmitter (this link goes to the one you have; the one in the FAT is a different style)

u/Mithapa · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I used a dual usb with a magnetic/water resistant closure and really like it. I’ll link it later when I get home if you want. I also tied into wires instead of direct to battery they make wire tie ins that just clamp on like this:

Ginsco 120 Pcs/60 Pairs Quick Splice Wire Terminals T-Tap Self-stripping with Nylon Fully Insulated Male Quick Disconnects Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CDWC60Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_n4bdBbTK9RZRB

u/sewy7d · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M1777XK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I checked the voltage and it seems to be right.

4.5v when open
0v when closed

u/biscuithead710 · 1 pointr/arduino

I was under the impression that the one I was using could handle 5v? The original test on a breadboard was from 5v... I can change and hopefully didnt fry it yet if I a wrong.

u/Narcolapser · 1 pointr/arduino

I'll try to get a diagram tonight, unfortunately my tinkering time for this morning has now expired, so I must go do other things. But in short:

It's a 4 pin OLED, doesn't SPI need 3 pins to communicate? CS, CLK, and Data? Or am I mistaken in this case? (It seems I might be, as I look now, someone on that amazon page is using spi. hmmm.)

I tried putting the resisters inline as you suggested, now it is as if the screen weren't connected at all.

I currently have:

A4 -> SCL
A5 -> SDA
GND -> GND
5V -> VCC

u/QuickIOS · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

using this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F839VNQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A298K45OP416LP&psc=1 between the input and the relays would work?

I like the simplicity of the resistor idea but It's hard to tell how hot its going to get or what speed a particular ohm value is going to reduce it to until its all said and done.

u/demevalos · 1 pointr/headphones

I bought this pack of 3:1 in various sizes, and it's the one in the top middle row. I'm not sure what size it is, though I'll have to figure it out soon cause I'm running out and I use that size the most. I highly recommend 3:1 when connecting things that are very different sizes (like the sennheiser connectors to the cable), it helps secure much better.

u/beerett99 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I have my blue wired to the negative(-) on the board, and the black goes into where the red is on the end stop.

Brown (NPN) 6-36v
Blue - Negative on the Anet board where 12v comes in for main power.
Black - wired into the red plug on the Z endstop.



My probe: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008FZC8F2

u/Kip-Casper · 1 pointr/dbotcorexy

Thanks for the safety advice, that's obviously something I want to be careful with. I'm looking at getting this keenovo 200x300mm heater and this SSR. What kind of fuses do you recommend for something like this?

u/MrBreadWater · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

These. They are a bit tall, but it's fine.

u/JKraems · 1 pointr/AnetA8

I use a LJ18A3-8-Z/BX sensor and used this guide to set it up. I made a custom bracket that fits onto my custom entruder carriage. I find myself having to adjust the z-offset regularly and I'm not sure why. I don't know if my sensor is moving in the bracket or if the sensor is just that sensitive to temperature/humidity. Overall I like it and I think it is better than manually leveling the bed.

u/Smokey347 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Also not OP, but these are ones that I got that will work with click bar switches. But like /u/angelartech said, they must be as flush as possible to the PCB for them to work.

u/neuone · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I'm using the LJ18A3-8-Z/BX that was suggested in this Instructables. The problem I'm having is with the placement of the sensor. I first designed this bracket that mounts on the X carriage above where the filament cooling fan mounts. It fits nicely and is fairly close to the nozzle. The problem is if the nozzle contacts the bed first the whole carriage rotates up. This rotation cause the sensor to lift further away from the bed, which drive the nozzle lower... I'm going to design a new bracket that will attach to the linear bearing block. This will have the opposite effect if the nozzle impacts the bed. The sensor will be driven lower which should trigger the sensor sooner.

EDIT: Also, since it is an inductive sensor the 8 mm range is for steel/iron. The range for aluminum is about 4.5 mm.

u/ColeTheSoul · 1 pointr/headphones

I bought 275 paracord and cut it to 4 equal lengths, and then took out the inner strands. Then I used 26 AWG wire, threaded it through the paracord sleeving which took a little bit of time. Then soldered the 4 ends to a 1/4 in jack. At this point I braided the 4 strands together, chose how long before my y split, then just twisted the two sets of wire and soldered the 650 terminals on. I also made sure to have heat shrink, so I bought the most popular amazon set.

u/d_dubya · 1 pointr/CR10

I actually just ordered this inductive sensor from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M1777XK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . In the reviews someone used it with success on our machine and said it was a significant improvement. Looks like an easy install by cutting and splicing the wires near the sensor. Seems like many people have success with this.

​

I'll check out the tinymonsters firmware, that also seems to be pretty popular. Is there any functional difference? Or is it just better behind the scenes?

u/Cyrus9586 · 1 pointr/FixMyPrint

I am also using a Anet. the A8[ with this Sensor.] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008FZC8F2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)


I was also [following this video] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-TwWfUzXpc) But several things didn't work right.


I shall try what you did right now and see what happens.

u/dubbedout · 1 pointr/winkhub

I don't use them for the same reasons you've stated. I prefer using the regular wire nuts, I've seen these and they look similar but more secure and maybe smaller than a large wire nut.

u/nuked24 · 0 pointsr/pcmods

Look for 3M Scotchlok connectors, I bought these about a year ago and they're soooo useful

u/Maxious · 0 pointsr/ADSB

From Amazon:
> When the power supply voltage changes in 5-8 v, it can be used as a variable gain amplifier, gain increases with the increase of the power supply voltage, which suitable for radio frequency receive front-end circuit, using DA control power supply voltage, to control the gain of the amplifier, automatic gain control
> When the power supply voltage in the 8-10 v, the low frequency end gain up to 30 db, at this time the amplifier has a low noise coefficient and good stability.
> When the voltage is 12 v, reach maximum gain, the low frequency end gain of 32.5 dB.

https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-0-1-2000MHz-WideBand-Amplifier-Noise/dp/B01N2NJSGV