Best electronics & gadgets according to redditors

We found 510 Reddit comments discussing the best electronics & gadgets. We ranked the 249 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Cycling computers
Calorie counters
GPS units
Weather monitors

Top Reddit comments about Electronics & Gadgets:

u/MOIST_MAN · 13 pointsr/bicycling

I've created a short list of everything I have, linked items are the ones that I recommend.

Things for the road

Frame/ Mini pump

Saddle Bag

Patch Kit

Tire Boot (You can make your own for cheap, but these are still good)

Tire levers (See Multi-Tool, Levers Included)

Multi Tool (Super-Recommend)

Bike Lights

Spare Tubes (Optional for the road)

Bottles of choice

Sunglasses of choice

Gloves of choice (Important! For preventing impossible-to-heal palm scrapes)

Cycling compter

U Lock (no cable locks! they're garbage) <<I Have 3 of these, but then again, I live in Oakland.

Things for home

Floor pump

Tools (Pretty much covered by Multi-Tool, but there's things you may need like cassette tool, chain whip, etc)

Wet and Dry chain lube

Clothing (Optional, I only have the shoes and windbreaker)

Hi-Vis Jacket

Clipless shoes, I recommend SPD for easier walking


Padded Shorts, or Bib shorts


Leg Warmers

Most importantly, you need knowledge of cycling. Look up videos on youtube about safe riding on the road, traffic laws, hand signals, how to repair your bike on the road and at home, how to take a fall, and as much theory that you can)

EDIT: Do not let me trick you into thinking that a multi-tool is a replacement for the big-boy tools that are available on the market. Some of those tools are actually worth the investment. However, be that as it may, do your research first, because there's some overpriced crap out there ^^^Park ^^^Tools.

u/natermer · 10 pointsr/ebikes

The cheap 1000w48v dd hub motors are OK.

I look at them as starter kits. You can buy one, slap it on your bike, and learn about how to build them, what you like, what you want. You can figure out what it's like to ride a 1000w bike or a 500w bike or a 2000w bike. Once you learn what you like they can be upgraded piecemeal pretty easily or whatever you want.

More advanced DIY people don't use kits directly, but tend to piece their own setups together based on what they want. But you got to start somewhere.

As far as these kits go themselves they are able to be cheap because they cut a lot of corners. They use odd ball connectors, cheap throttles, cheap displays, over sized controllers, and very low quality wheel builds.

The biggest problems people have tend to be the wheels themselves. The motors are fine, but since they use oversized spokes and very cheap rims they never can be tensioned correctly. This means over time spokes work themselves loose and loose spokes are very weak and break easily. As long as you true up the wheel when you get it and keep a eye on spoke tension then you eliminate most of the problems people have with them The next biggest problem is the throttles wearing out, but they are easy to replace.

But people do get thousands of miles out of these sorts of kits. Some people who commute regularly with them have gotten tens of thousands.


The deal here is that most people cause themselves problems by skimping on the battery. The battery is the real power source. The motor is really just a transmission.

If I had to choose between a low-quality kit and high battery kit versus a middle quality kit and middle quality battery.. I would choose the high quality battery with bottom barrel kit 100% of the time. No question.


If you want to avoid headaches...

Also need to get:

Those are very substantial torque arms and will save your bike.

Grin and Em3ev also has some good kits to pick from. But I would blow your budget on decent battery first then motor kit with whatever is left over.

Em3ev has a bad-ass little 3kw motor kit that is very affordable. Keep in mind that it does use motorcycle rims.. at that power level bicycle parts are worthless. I recommend one of Grin's kits.. Mxus cassette kit is very good and not super heavy and would be appropriate for a bicycle. Grin has a larger DD45 kit that will max out what you can do with a bicycle and it is pretty affordable as well. I am not sure about the shipping situation.

u/NCC1941 · 9 pointsr/ebikes

To be fair to you and your legs, even the easiest gear on that bike (42t up front, 32t on the rear) is passable, but not ideal for serious hills. It's more geared for casual rides, commuting, and only mild hills.


You have a few options for cheap kits, but keeping it under $400 without relying on potentially dodgy components isn't going to be particularly possible.

Most cheap hub motor kits aren't compatible with cassettes (your rear gearing), so you could either go with a front hub motor, or convert your bike down to a 7-speed freewheel (you'd need to buy and install a 7-speed shifter).

Whether you choose a front or rear hub motor kit, you'll need to find one that will fit in with your bike's 700c wheelset. Terms to look for when searching for a kit include "700c", "28 inch", and "29 inch". They're all different marketing names for the same wheel diameter.

Here's the cheapest one I was able to find in a very brief eBay search. It's a 500w geared motor, available for either front or rear (you'll need to convert your bike to 7-speed if you want the rear option) at $175, or $225 if you want it with an upgrade LCD display. I prefer the display, but it's not mandatory.


Next, you'll need a battery. There are a lot of good options out there, for batteries made with name-brand cells and sold be reputable sellers. But there are also a lot of questionable sellers out there, selling packs made out of generic Chinese cells that might or might not meet their stated specifications.

The big three sellers that I would recommend are LunaCycle, EM3ev, and if you can't find a battery from either of those two (your low-step frame basically rules out a lot of the popular mid-frame-mounted battery designs), shop carefully from UnitPackPower.

Things to look for from a battery:

  1. The battery's nominal voltage needs to match the designed voltage for your kit. So, if you buy a 36v kit, you need a 36v battery. If you buy a 48v kit, you need a 48v or 52v battery (they're close enough to be mostly interchangeable).

  2. The battery needs to be able to supply enough current for your kit. The battery will have two current ratings - a continuous current rating, and a maximum or peak rating. If you choose not to buy from a reputable manufacturer, it's safest to ignore the peak rating entirely, because sellers like to list peak ratings that the battery might only be able to maintain for as little as fractions of a second. To avoid straining the battery, you want the battery's continuous rating to match the motor controller's peak rating.

  3. For maximum safety and battery reliability/longevity, you want a battery that's made from name-brand cells. Sanyo, Panasonic, Samsung, and LG are the most common cell manufacturers you'll see when looking for ebike batteries. If the product listing for a battery doesn't list the brand of cells they're using, avoid that battery. UnitPackPower sells name-brand packs alongside generic packs, so you'll want to watch for this.

    To tie all of this in with the 36v 500w kit I pointed out earlier in this post, here is a battery from UnitPackPower that fits the requirements.

  4. The battery is 36v nominal, to match the 36v motor kit.

  5. This battery can supply 20A continuous. The kit I linked to doesn't actually list its controller's peak rating. It never hurts to ask the seller when information is missing, but for a 500w kit, 20A should be plenty.

  6. This pack is listed as using Samsung cells. They're not going to be high-end cells at this price point, but at least you can be sure that they were manufactured with quality control in mind.

    This pack is $312 on its own, or $394 including the rear rack that it's designed to slot into. But you can always just strap it to a rack of your choice, or mount it however.


    The last item you'll need is a torque arm. I'd suggest reading through this article from that explains what torque arms are, and why you want one. Unfortunately, the torque arm that comes with the kit I linked to is a knockoff of an old design (the GrinTech TorqArm_V1 mentioned in the article) that was faulty in design and was discontinued in 2010. So, you'll want a better one. I recommend the TorqArm_V3. It's overkill for a 500w motor, but that's not a bad thing.


    So, taking my examples from above, we've got:

    36v front hub motor kit: $175-$225

    36v13Ah battery from UnitPackPower: $312-$394

    Torque Arm: $30

    And, let's say $15 for zipties, maybe a few wiring connectors for the likely event that the battery and the controller don't come with matching connectors, that sort of thing.

    Total example cost: $532-$664



    In my examples, I picked the cheapest decent-looking options I found in a very quick search. You might find cheaper and/or better options that I missed, and prices and product availability are always changing.

    The main issue I take with my own example, is the choice of a 36v system. In the last couple years, 36v has been slowly falling out of favor, with 48v/52v systems now being more available from the reputable sellers. I picked the 36v setup because it was the cheapest I found at the moment, but if you're willing to spend just a bit more, or wait for prices to shift, you'll find a much wider range of reputable options in 48v/52v.

    An important topic that I didn't cover is battery capacity, and thus range. You didn't mention any particular range requirement, and mentioned hills in your neighborhood as the main obstacle, so I made the assumption that you aren't really looking for a huge battery. The 36v13Ah battery I listed as an example would be good for 18-23 miles on level ground, at 20mph, without the rider pedaling. Range will be lower with hills, higher if you pedal to help it along.

    Edit: If you do want to use one of the popular mid-mounted battery options, like this one from EM3ev, you could mount it to your bike's top tube using a set of Grin Technologies Bottle Bobs. I would have mentioned that option earlier, but I forgot it existed.
u/stevietopsiders · 6 pointsr/Velo

Cateye Stealth 50 is $75 on Amazon rn:

I have the Stealth 50+, but all that does is add a terribly inaccurate altimeter. This will do GPS, Speed, and connect to ANT+.

Also a great screen for riding in bright daylight.

u/tiffysy · 6 pointsr/pokemongo

I've been using this mount and a gotcha when I go on bike rides, it's great.

u/kendallpark · 6 pointsr/medicalschool

I'm not a 3rd year, but I can share a few things that work well for me which I think are 3rd year compatibile.

  1. Study while exercising. I kid you not, my most focused, uninterrupted study times were always during exercise. There are two ways I managed to pull this off. First, I bought this so I could listen to lectures on my smartphone while riding my bike (on a secluded bike-only trail in the middle of nowhere, NOT a road or congested trail.) Second, I brought my iPad to the gym, hopped on a treadmill, and would walk + Anki or walk + QBank or walk + watch lectures. You're a captive audience in these settings (with less ability to dick around on Facebook, Reddit, etc) so it's easier to focus. It's also active so you're not at as huge a risk of falling asleep.

  2. Anki. I wish I had discovered this earlier. The most consistently I've ever studied is flipping though Anki cards. That's something that can easily be reviewed during odd hours without needing to seclude yourself and focus. Yeah, it's mindless memorization, but you'll find your brain starts connecting all these factoids on its own. And LBVS, most of med school is memorization.

  3. Remember that something is better than nothing. I personally struggle with wasting time trying to optimize my studying so that its hyper-efficient and super-comprehensive. It's good to remember at the end of the day, reading a few pages of a textbook is better than throwing your hands up because you don't have the time to do 100% optimal studying.

  4. FWIW I use a Trello board to organize tasks, set goals, make a loose schedule, etc. It's helpful to zoom out and take a broad overview of what you have already done and what still needs to accomplished.

  5. Block distractions.
u/ukarmy04 · 5 pointsr/bikecommuting

I've had the bike for a few weeks now and use it almost entirely for commuting. Here's what I've added since I got the bike:

  • GoPro Hero3 Black

  • NiteRider Lumina Micro 350 front and rear

  • Nite Ize HandleBand

  • Tektro CR720 Canti Brakes

  • Ibera PakRak Bicycle Touring Carrier Plus+

  • Avenir Excursion Rack-Top Bag

  • SKS P45 Black Chromoplastic Longboard

  • SRAM Supercork Bicycle Bar Tape (Black)

  • Shimano Brake Cable and Housing Set

  • Shimano Road Shift Cable and Housing Set

    The stock brakes weren't doing enough to stop me so I swapped them out for some Tektro CR720s. I dropped the yoke as far as I could to give myself as much leverage as possible. Braking is much better now and more reliable than the original set ever was.

    I added a rack and trunk bag that's big enough to hold my food and clothes for the day. The only modification I had to make here was filing away some metal from rack mounting leg. It was colliding with frame near the dropout and not allowing the leg to sit close enough to the braze on.

    Some of the original cable housings that came with the bike had some gouges in them so Nashbar sent me a new replacement cable set. I swapped out all the brake/shift cables and replaced the bar tape with some SRAM cork tape. The original cables from Nashbar were also a bit too long and were causing excessive friction.

    I added some SKS fenders per the recommendations of users on this sub. They were a little finicky to install but I got them on in the end. This particular frame doesn't have bolt holes in either of the two rear bridges so I had to resort to the classic zip tie approach.

    As far as the bike goes, it's been performing flawlessly so far. It weighs close to 30 lbs now so it's not the lightest thing in the world. However, the steel frame and the large tires really help smooth out the road quite a bit. The saddle is still the most uncomfortable part of the bike, but I'm hoping to swap it out sometime in the near future. Shifting is still very smooth and the 4 trim positions on the 105 front derailleur is a great feature.

    If you're considering getting a bike from Nashbar, I'd definitely recommend them. Their customer service was fantastic and everything they shipped usually got to me door in 2-3 days (even the bike!).
u/FatFingerHelperBot · 5 pointsr/ebikes

It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users.
I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!

Here is link number 1 - Previous text "V2"

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u/Kazyole · 5 pointsr/bicycling

I used to have Cateye's strada w/cadence which is a pretty good basic cyclocomputer. I eventually replaced it with a garmin 500 because I wanted more data, but it should probably be fine for your purposes (it's also pretty light and inexpensive as far as cyclocomputers go).

u/annoyingone · 4 pointsr/CampingGear

I use this chinese knockoff that is surprisingly very high quality for its price.

u/SgtBaxter · 4 pointsr/cycling

You don't need to spend a lot of money - For example, this Sigma computer has cadence feature, and is only $32

I have a Sigma bike computer, it's been fantastic, reliable and most of all pretty accurate. They also seem to have great response time and are intuitive.

But I think that's what you're asking about. Cadence tells you how fast your legs are spinning. Try to maintain around 90RPM if you can. Worry about cadence more than overall speed to begin.

Also as far as hills go, if you can you want to attack the hill and get up a lot of speed at the foot of the hill and try to maintain it as much as you can. Momentum from speed really helps a lot. Also, when you are about to crest the hill it starts to get easier. Use that as opportunity to gain some speed back so when you're riding flat you can just maintain.

u/[deleted] · 4 pointsr/collapse

Multipurpose waterproof match case. I prefer this case because it's not much bigger than other waterproof cases, but has other stuff built into it. I put waterproof matches in it along with the striker strip from the package. The whistle is good for signaling. The other functions are marginal, so I supplement them with the actual things, which consist of a signal mirror, lensatic compass, and emergency fire starter.

A stove and solid fuel. I was pretty impressed with this particular one when I received it. It's stainless steel, well constructed, and you can store four fuel tabs inside of it.

A multitool and a fixed-blade knife. I don't have either of these specific models, but they seem pretty decent.

A folding shovel. These are good for burying waste, helping a car gain traction in the winter, etc.

A self-adhesive bandage. This is a three-pack. The single one cost $4 locally. Buy this one and leave the other two in your medicine cabinet. Wrap the remaining one around a piece of cardboard and put it in your emergency pack.

Disposable antibacterial wipes.

Antimicrobial silver gel. Like Neosporin, but better. Stays on a wound for multiple days without covering, and the colloidal silver is a strong antimicrobial agent. See the oligodynamic effect.

Dust masks. This is for a 50-pack, but for half the price, you only get 10 at a local store. These help prevent you from spreading germs if you're sick, and keep you from inhaling macroscopic particles if you're in a dusty/dirty area.

QuikClot sponge bandage. This helps to stop bleeding from major injuries. Along with an Israeli battle dressing you have two great ways to help stem major bleeding, separately or combined.

Local anesthetic for stings. Good for numbing injuries other than stings, too.

Sterile pads, 4” x 4”.


Cigarette-adapter power inverter. Good for charging small electronics.

Hand warmers.

Work gloves and watchcap.

All of the following are probably best bought in stores or scrounged up around the house:

Toothbrush, toothpaste, floss, all with obvious uses.

Aspirin, for heart attacks and pain, ibuprofen for pain, anti-histamine for allergic reactions, and Imodium or off-brand equivalent for diarrhea. I can't stress having Imodium enough. Having cramps and shits can render you unable to do anything for long periods of time, even more so than other ailments.

A disposable razor can be used to shave to keep up appearances, or to shave the area around a wound for better bandaging.

Maxi pads and tampons can be used as intended as well as to prevent bleeding from wounds.

Toilet paper. Wrap it around a piece of cardboard to save space.

Bandanas or an old shirt can be used to make a sling, protect yourself from the sun, filter macroscopic particles out of water, filter dirty/dusty air, etc.

Hot chocolate with caffeine added can be used to help stay alert.

Lighters are a must-have to start a fire.

I also have a Ziploc bag containing about ten cotton balls soaked in petroleum jelly. They're great firestarters.

Cash. Keep various bills and coins in an amount that you think is suitable for emergencies.

Maps. Carry folding maps of your area, state, and surrounding states.

I think that covers everything that I have. There's a lot of redundancy, but it all fits in my bag, so I'm happy with it. I'm definitely interested in hearing thoughts as to what can be added or changed.

u/Nyxian · 4 pointsr/arduino

>Show RPM, Show which gear I'm in, Show the speed (calculated from the previous two)

You cannot calculate road speed from RPM + Gear. You can only get your transmission output speed. You also need your wheel diameter, and you know all your gear ratios (which I'm sure you do, being a project bike) and chain ratio.

This also wouldn't account for your clutch, and there really isn't any way you can do that.

You are overthinking it. You don't want to use the engine RPM and transmission ratios to calculate speed, because that gets all muddled by the clutch.

You want to know every time your wheel spins. That is how most modern accurate speedometers work on cars, because the ABS system has this information.

Calculate speed from wheel turns, wheel diameter. You'll have to adjust for tread depth and PSI over time but this is the most accurate way you can do it. If you want to get even more accurate an accelerometer may be able to assist to detect things like loss of traction.



>Are their jumper wires that can be semi-permanent? My ones with my sparkfun kit seem a tad loose and the bike might vibrate them a little. Does anyone have advice, examples, suggestions and links that might be helpful? Thanks in advance!

Jumper wires are not intended to be permanent, they are just useful for prototyping. I especially wouldn't trust them on a vibrating motorcycle. Solder wires for this, especially if you want it to last.

I also realize I didn't really give you a good way to do this.

The traditional bicycle setup is called a
Cyclocomputer*. Here is a commercial version.

What you are looking to do for a custom, arduino solution, is a [
hall effect sensor**]( and a strong permanent magnet.

u/UpTheDownEscalator · 4 pointsr/bicycling

Cool bike. FYI Wahoo and Garmin make wireless speed and cadence sensors that broadcast in bluetooth and ANT+ and don't require magnets.

u/Prosapiens · 4 pointsr/EDC

Gorruck 34L GR2 Coyote Tan - a good bag, heavy, uncomfortable, probably give it to my grandchildren in like 50 years

Flip Flops - generic things

Bigblue 28W solar charger - very good, can charge my battery up during the day if i leave it in the sun which I've never really done honestly

Jakemy hardware tools - seamed useful? i've never needed this

Army glove shells - i thought i used these a lot and were indistructable but now that i think of it, i don't use them that often and are probably pretty cheaply made.

Sharpie, pen, all weather notebook - probably should switch over to a fisher space pen...

Straws - these are probably already broken.

Whistle - really really really loud

Fire-striker, matches, lighter - i'm not sure i have enough ways to start a fire

Fresnel lens - ok, now i have enough

LED flashlight - i used to go running in the middle of the night with this flashlight, its tiny

LED flashlight - this isn't the one i have but looks kinda similar? i don't remember where i got mine

Earbuds - generic cheap earbuds

Leatherman Surge - given to me by my wife for passing the bar. thanks wife!

First Aide kit - i put mine together from stuff i've stolen from friends houses whenever i go over and use the bathroom

playing cards - these look very similar to the ones i have, they are plastic so they won't get rained on

glasses/ sunglasses - i have really bad vision

personal hygiene kit - aahhhh dry shaving

Sawyer Mini / syringe, collapsible canteen (dirty), heavy duty straw - i've never used this

collapsible canteen (clean) - i've never used this either

sewing kit - i've used this a lot

ID tags - i guess if i get blown up they'll know my blood type?

garbage bag - for when my pockets are full

elastic bands - i use these when packing to keep rolled socks and things from falling apart

Salt - i have nooooo idea why i have this

cooking grate - i'm not going to hold meat over a fire with a stick like some sort of caveman

heavy duty ziplock bag - in case my mapcase breaks and other reasons

rip-patch - leftover from when i needed a pack because i bought a crummy cheap inflatable sleeping pad.

Army Fleece Beanie - i always keep this at the top of my pack

4 Bungie Cords - not the one i use but similar. to make a field-expedient shelter

Trowel - for disposal of biological wastes

Lensatic compass - because GPS should only be a backup

Pocketboy 130 folding saw - i have a bigger one for yardwork, this small one is really great

Tent stakes - for tent staking

Ravpower 26800 Battery - use this all the time can fast chage my stuff

Battery Battery holder, cables, wall charger - all fits togehter like glove!

Army Poncho - wear it, make a tent out of it etc

Microfiber towel - not the one i use but similar. i mainly use this for when the kids accidentally fall in a lake like they tend to do for some reason

Down Jacket - cheap chinese knockoff... i feel bad for not buying american

Wet weather top - not sure this is worth the space/weight

Wet Weather bottom - not sure if this is worth the weight/space

Silkweights - PJs! and warmth

Jungle Blanket - this is a lot better than the army's woobie. lighter and warmer

Gransfors Bruks Wildlife Hatchet - again, gift from wife. she wanted me to chop things and be more manly, generally. now i come home with parts of wildlife for her to cook

Map of New England - or, how i stopped worrying and love dismounted land navigation

PT belt - keeps me safe in all situations

Compression straps - i don't like lashing things to the outside but i guess i can if i wanted to

Fork and Spoon - stole these from the kitchen. i'll probably be replacing this soon with something titanium.


EDIT: i just priced it out: $1,585.08 total

u/TheDopeGodfather · 4 pointsr/GalaxyS8

I use this. Works great.

u/richie_engineer · 3 pointsr/cycling

If you're using Strava, you can buy a Bluetooth cadence sensor that will pair with your phone.

u/zeusiii · 3 pointsr/bicycling

I have the 500, friend has a 510. For me, the extra money was not worth it when I had the chance to try out his 510 before getting my computer. I did not like the touchscreen simply because its not the smoothest thing out there. Nowhere near a modern phone or tablet. I also didn't have need for the bluetooth or live tracking. I will say that the 510 is way more accurate and way faster to get signal when you turn it on. The thing is instant and I have to wait 30-60 seconds on my 500. Not a big deal to just remember to turn it on while putting on shoes or something.

As a side note, for a simpler device that still does most everything, the Cateye Stealth 50 is pretty nice and inexpensive. Know someone that was trying it out for their shop and seemed to like it and the fact that it costs less is a plug. Still has GPS and is ANT+ compatible but at $99 its worth looking at.

u/SPV1 · 3 pointsr/bicycling

Cateye Strada:

I've had both the Strada and an older model that looked like the Velo, and prefer the Strada because the screen is larger and easier to read in a quick glance. Both work well, especially for the price. They are both super easy to install, but read the instructions!

u/nickpickles · 3 pointsr/bicycling

I have the Sigma BC509 which I have been using for a year now. It was simple to install, cheap ($15), easily detachable, and easy to use/read. I have no reason to upgrade as it serves my needs fine (finding how many miles I'm commuting, my mph when going down hills, and total time for longer rides).

u/mentalorigami · 3 pointsr/bicycling

Cateye Strada Cadence nice and cheap, I've put a few thousand miles on mine with no issues. Has not one, not two, but three mileage readings, trip, trip2 and odo (lifetime miles) as well as speed, average speed, cadence and time. Well worth the $35.

u/grewapair · 3 pointsr/bikecommuting

I got a bike handlebar mount like this one and replaced the batteries in an old cell phone. Total cost about $20.

I installed the daily roads voyager app that records successive 2 minute clips until the storage you allot is full, then it overwrites the oldest one. If you touch the screen, it saves that clip and doesn't overwrite it. If it detects impact, it saves the last two clips.

Honestly, it recorded as well as anything I've seen online, even at night. The only problem was the mounting and unmounting of the handlebar mount, which added an extra minute. That, coupled with the fact that in a year, I never really recorded anything exciting, led me to stop using it, as it just wasn't worth the trouble.

Three years later, I still have had nothing exciting happen.

Invest the money into better visibility gear. I use a high viz vest for $6, and enough lights you can see from Mars: complete overkill. I even have superbright red lights I use in the daytime.

Then I spent a fair amount of time learning to read driver cues and figuring out how to avoid the typical dangerous situations that lead to most accidents. Example: as you approach an intersection as you're passing the line of stopped cars that is just restarting, pick one car you'll never be able to get ahead of before the intersection and stay just behind them. You never get right hooked. At every intersection, I treat a green light like a 4 way stop sign: look both ways and assume someone will run the light. When riding near parking spaces, drivers who drive slowly are likely looking for parking and will dart into a space, so just stay behind them.

If you do all that, nothing exciting enough to record ever happens.

u/nmesunimportnt · 3 pointsr/cycling

At that price, you don't get GPS, but you may be able to get wireless. I have a strong preference for Cateye from years of reliable service. Wireless is easier to deal with when installing or doing maintenance on the bike, but the wired computers are silly cheap.

EDIT: Stupid cheap:
Cheap wireless:

u/CasualRider · 3 pointsr/bicycling

I use this for my Galaxy S3 with an otterbox case on it. I'm not sure if the S4 is the same size, but I assume it is.

It works well. It is secure, generally weatherproof (but you don't want to submerge it) and I'm able to adequately use the touchscreen while the case is on. The only drawback is that there is bad glare in bright sunlight, so you've got to wait for a shady patch to see the screen on a bright day.

u/bombadil77 · 3 pointsr/cycling

There are those that have GPS capabilities and there are those that don't. I bought the cateye strada double wireless. It's on the high end of non-GPS computers which means it's still cheap at $75. If you don't have that money to spend, I'm guessing you'd be better off upgrading your bicycle or wardrobe instead.

It will tell you your speed and your cadence at the same time. Really, cadence is more important than speed and you'll probably regret it if you don't get a computer with a cadence feature. Pedal at your greatest efficiency and let the speed be whatever it is. The computer has been a great learning tool for which gear I should be in in different situations. Basically, I needed to go to lower gears and spin faster.

u/louielouayyyyy · 3 pointsr/bicycling

New tires. Get a cycle computer so you can challenge yourself to ride further and faster.

Remember: spin fast instead of pushing hard. It will reduce wear on your bike and increase your physical endurance.

u/pascha · 3 pointsr/bicycling

If you want a cheapo bike computer, get the $12 one from Amazon with a brand name: Schwinn.

It works fine, and yes, it comes with zip ties to attach it to the fork.

u/GiraffeInATree · 2 pointsr/functionalprint

Nice design. I had a mount on my bike, but I found that it would shake loose from vibrations of the bike. I have been planning to find a rubber band like the one on this product to help hold my phone in.

u/bobador1 · 2 pointsr/bikecommuting
u/GoodwillCheap · 2 pointsr/pokemongo

I recommend one of these, picked one up today and it kept my phone snug and let me use both of my hands. Cheap, fits all sizes and I guess is also a bottle opener according to Amazon.

u/anandamides · 2 pointsr/pelotoncycle

You could also get the wahoo cadence monitor that's $40. Wahoo RPM Cycling Cadence Sensor, Bluetooth / ANT+

It also syncs with the app. The app store your cadence data within each ride record. I used to have this monitor.

u/lazyfrodo · 2 pointsr/cycling

I hope I get shot down for this but I absolutely hate the combined sensors. It's mostly a matter of principle in using magnets vs accelerometers to me but I've had rougher rides outside and every now and then I found myself having to readjust the sensor to get closer to the revolving magnet on the spoke.

I like the idea of Bluetooth/Ant+ but probably won't make that switch until Garmin does this or Wahoo ups the reliability to their accelerometer based offerings. I ended up with the Garmin speed and cadence sensors mainly because how rugged they looked and they have yet to let down. Downside to Ant+, that I have yet to experience yet, is having to use a dongle for your computer.

With regards to the cadence sensor (Garmin), the 3 slit design makes for a ridiculously good hold. The combined sensor relies on you removing your pedals which is a pain in the ace if you ever realize you made a mistake purchasing one.

The speed sensor is beautiful in that it wraps around the hub and I've been on a set and forget mindset ever since purchasing it.

If you're up for a potential hassle then I'd go for the Wahoo speed and cadence sensors. That seems like a high risk high reward in being able to gain Bluetooth functionality and drop a dongle. I on the other hand don't want to mess with what works and got the Garmin pair of sensors and that seems to work well for me. I'm too deep in the Garmin game at this point to turn back but I'm really hoping Wahoo ups their game so Garmin will finally develop some Bluetooth/ant+ sensors to ween people off the inevitable Ant+ downfall (probably in 3 yrs).

DO IT(playing it safe):
Garmin Bike Speed Sensor and Cadence Sensor
Garmin USB ANT Stick for Garmin Fitness Devices
AmazonBasics USB 2.0 Extension Cable - A-Male to A-Female - 9.8 Feet (3 Meters)

Wahoo RPM Speed and Cadence sensor for iPhone, Android and Bike Computers

Going Garmin obviously requires more stuff but I'd say it's worth it. Make sure to measure the wheel circumference or try googling it so your training is accurate.

u/voodoo6051 · 2 pointsr/Goruck

Without having done Navigator, but taking an educated guess: I'd suggest the military model Cammenga compass with tritium lamps. It looks like that course is based on the navigation of special forces selection, and is taught to military standards. The Cammenga is the army compass and will do well for the job. Plus, the tritium is nice for night nav, since it doesn't need to be charged.

Amazon Link

u/kingtut81 · 2 pointsr/cycling

I have been using this mount for some time now. It works very well for me. Its called the "Nite Ize HandleBand"

Amazon Link

u/byrel · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

You could certainly build your own, but considering you can buy one for about $30, I'd just buy one unless you just want to do it to learn about stuff

u/eatsleeptri · 2 pointsr/triathlon

If it's a small race, I'm sure they won't mind.

I would honestly invest in a Cateye cycling computer and a cheap GPS running watch.

Should give you the same data (no way to analyze the bike post-race, though), and be much less obtrusive than having a phone on your bike and carrying it on the run.

u/sew_butthurt · 2 pointsr/Dirtbikes

You're very much welcome. That's of course just my opinion, and you know what they say about opinions and assholes.

Ah, mud. That brings us to tires. From a lot of reading, and a bit of experience, I can confidently say that dual sport tires do poorly both on-road and off-road. If you're talking about a 10 minute ride to the trailhead, do yourself a favor and put some proper offroad tires on. Just be careful on pavement, especially in the rain and especially while leaned over.

I don't remember where I read it (Motorcyclist, perhaps?) but the WR250R (not WR250F) was described as being a trail-ready bike made street legal, rather than a street-legal bike that can go on trails. It's supposedly one of the more trail-oriented dualsports out there.

That being said, for fuck's sake check the maintenance schedule and costs prior to purchase! I refuse to own a modern 4-stroke motocross bike for exactly this reason. On the KDX, for example, annual maintenance is changing the coolant, and throwing a head gasket and jug base gasket at it. Put a new piston/rings in if you're feeling spendy. Total cost: <$200 and a few hours of your time.

Another option, depending on Louisiana law--at least in Michigan it's relatively simple to plate an off-road bike. That way, you could purchase a bike that's more trail-oriented and just put on minimal stuff to get the plate. You may even be able to get away with skipping turn signals, as hand signals are legal in many states. Horn? Try this guy. Speedo? Here you go. Again, check your state and local laws.

u/giantnakedrei · 2 pointsr/bicycling

I can't answer most of your questions, but I can give advice for one or two things. As far as the bike shorts go, don't feel that it's necessary to wear them for every ride. And wearing shorts over them is definitely an option. I wear a pair of more 'form-fitting' but not overly long shorts over my bike shorts (me in bike shorts is more than anybody but my gf ever wants to see.) But, you might want to buy a jersey shirt, if only for the pockets on the back. If you want to carry anything on longer rides, the bouncing of stuff in shorts/pants pockets gets old REALLY fast.

And as far as the pedals and shoes go, I'd advise waiting on the clipless ones. They're nice as far as riding goes, but I'd get used to everything else on the bike first. They'll probably run more than $25 bucks if you decide to upgrade to them (although there are less expensive ones out there - they usually start around $40-50 for the cheaper ones.) Shoes will cost a good bit too. But they aren't an absolute necessity - in fact, you can pedal a SPD pedal with normal shoes in a pinch, it's just a bit less stable.

And as far as apps go, you'll probably be up a river looking for that functionality (especially the crash reporting.) However, the most popular (and the 4 that I use regularly - aka every ride) are Strava Ride with GPS Map My Ride and Endomondo. Ride with GPS has live logging (every minute) for you SO to track you if you wish. All of them do map tracking for free. Advanced statistics are available to subscribers and/or Pro/Plus (paid) versions of the apps on the Play Store. They'll work with bluetooth HR sensors as well. Find out which one works best for what you want before you shell out cash for these subscriptions...

As for the mount, I have a waterproof one that was about $30 here in Japan, but probably isn't available in the States. NVM FOUND IT. It works adequately, but my phone is prone to overheating in the sun (not a top quality phone) as the bag seals and there is no ventilation. Although it does lock the phone securely to the bike. Between that and a constantly checking speed and stuff I switched to carrying my phone in my jersey pocket when it's especially warm outside.

u/filthyskills87 · 2 pointsr/pelotoncycle

cadence and speed is the same thing in spinning, the other wahoo sensor is speed which can be used to calculate distance based on the RPM and size of the fly wheel - not as import in spinning where you are more concerned with cadence/resistance/output (power)


There is a nice chart of what the different wahoo sensors do on amazon.

u/RenegadeP3NGUIN · 2 pointsr/ebikes

These are the good ones, there are alot of cheap ones out there, do not use them. They will not do the job correctly. They keep the axle more secure. With out them the wheel can spin out of the axle and bad things happen.

u/Livingonthevedge · 2 pointsr/ebikes
  1. You can put it just about anywhere it will fit. It could get hot so stuffing it in a bag might cause issues but it hasn't yet for me.

  2. I don't think so but wait for someone smarter to respond. I dunno harder to do wheelies?

  3. Yes, there is a strong chance of this happening if you don't use torque arms. Here is a quality torque arm form amazon
u/yourenotmydad · 2 pointsr/MTB

Hey thanks for the update, I find that nite ize stuff is hit or miss sometimes, but for $20 if it made it a year on your mtb it should do ok for ocassional road use i figure. Looks like it is just a bit cheaper on amazon too, good ole prime shipping

u/photonoobie · 2 pointsr/MTB

I have the baseline 2014 Rockhopper. I've upgraded a bunch of things so far. Here's what I learned.

The factory pedals are terrible. Buy a good pair of flats if you're not on the clipless train. They'll inspire a ton of confidence in your riding style. If you're familiar with clipless, a pair of Crank Brothers Eggbeaters and a decent pair of shoes are hard to beat. The increase in efficiency when using clipless pedals is astounding. Spent $100 + shoes

My bike came with a pogo-stic...err SR Suntour fork. It is terrible. I picked up an open box RockShox TK30 120mm air fork and it's transformed the bike into a completely different machine. Much much better. The Comp comes with an XC28 coil, but is fairly adustable, so I don't think you'll see much of an improvement untill you start spending more than a few hundred bucks on a good fork. Spent $200

The original Tektro brakes worked fine, but were not particularly durable. When I broke the levers off crashing, I installed a set of SLXs. Much better feel. Stopping power seems very close to the Tektros, but it's hard to judge that unless you're doing downhill stuff. Spent $150

I dropped my chain a few times over rough terrain, did a 3x9 to 1x10 conversion, added a $12 bashring in place of the large chainring, and installed an XT clutched derailleur and a RaceFace narrow wide chainring. No more dropped chains and it's almost completely silent. Spent -chain and cassette $67,Derailleur $65, Shifter $38, Bash ring $12, Chainring $60

A decent wireless computer is never a bad idea. $50

When I bought the bike, I picked up an underseat bag for tools/spares. It seems that they're all garbage though, and I gave up on those things.

The bar seemed a bit wide for me. I ride a lot of narrow singletrack, and the trees were seemingly out to get me. A pipe cutter and an hour of my time was all it took to cut it down to 760. It doesn't seem like a lot, but it feels much better to me now. More importantly, it was free.

So, I guess I've spent as much on upgrades as the bike cost, or pretty close to it.. Is it better than a $1500 bike? Maybe. Maybe not. But I do have everything I want and nothing I don't.

u/DownTheRabbitHole_VR · 2 pointsr/oculus

The cycling simulator Road Grand Tours needs to be on the list.

VR is supported already

I hope the Quest will support wirless connection Bluetooth 4.0 ANT+of sensors for speed and cadence (for mounting on stationary bikes)


Zwift seems to have an unofficial VR mode too

Sweat seems to be an issue though, so the Quest would probably need an ip67 waterproof rating.

u/kachunga · 2 pointsr/motorizedbicycles

I use this from before my bike had a motor and it seems to work pretty well

u/willvotetrumpagain · 2 pointsr/cycling

This cadence sensor offers bluetooth, so it can be read by your smartphone.

u/baecaughtme · 2 pointsr/cycling

I use the nite ize handle band. It's EXCELLENT. $16 on Amazon. I have iPhone 5 but it's universal. -

u/zack2014 · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

This because I've got airsoft events coming up, but no sidearm!

Or alternatively! This! because who doesn't need a compass?

AND my gif!

u/MainPFT · 2 pointsr/nexus6

Here's the type I use

Works like a charm. Doesn't budge. The straps hold it in place. Phone is totally accessible.

Amazon (Canada) equivalent

u/Syradil · 2 pointsr/bicycling

I'm guessing this one based on its price/review ratio. It's the one that I am probably going to get.

Cateye CC-RD300W Strada Wireless Bicycle Computer (Black)

u/emmygurl09 · 2 pointsr/pelotoncycle

My husband and I have our DIY setup in our garage and absolutely love it! I was hesitant to purchase a new Peloton since I had never been the workout-at-home type and was worried this expensive piece of workout equipment would become a dust collector in our garage. We decided to try the DIY workaround before investing a lot of money into the "real" thing.

We use a Sunny B1805 with the Wahoo Cadence sensor attached to the crank arm. I really wanted a magnetic belt drive and this one was probably the most affordable we found. I wish we had spent a little more and invested in a bike that comes with SPD pedals since I know we will be upgrading those in the near future. Other than that the bike is great and I highly recommend it!

We live in CA where the weather is mild pretty much all year so we decided to put the bike in our garage. We screen cast the classes to a TV we have hung up on the wall using an AppleTV and use our phones to view cadence in the Wahoo app. I also have a FitBit Versa that I use for HR purposes, though it does not sync with the Peloton app (huge bummer).

Other odds and ends we have in our setup: WiHoo Mini Handheld Portable Fan we attach to the tablet holder, floor fan, a set of Bowflex SelectTech 552 Adjustable Dumbells for strength classes (we don't do weights on the bike), and a basic Yoga mat.

It has surprised me just how happy I am with this setup! I thought I would feel like I was missing out by not having the leader board and not being able to track my stats. But I have yet to take a live class since the times don't work well for us west coasters with 9-5 jobs and commutes. And while I would like to be able to see output and resistance, I don't feel like my workout is suffering for not having them. I used to take spin classes regularly and most of those were about feel rather than exact numbers.

We've been using this setup since July and, honestly, I don't see myself buying a Peloton now. If anything I may upgrade to a better bike at some point. But for $20 a month I am getting an excellent workout that dips and sways with my schedule. I don't think I could justify being locked into $40 a month when I don't feel I am missing out much on the extras that come with the full price.

Here's a pic of our setup.

u/awang1996 · 2 pointsr/ElectricScooters

I do DD and Ubereats on a glion dolly. I use this bag, only $30, insulated, has a divider that you can take out and a foam drink holder thing at the bottom. Other than that I just use this phone mount

u/thisguy9 · 2 pointsr/golf

I've been looking at getting this bike handlebar phone mount to attach to the push handle of my Caddytek.

u/ThatGuyinHouston · 2 pointsr/cycling

When I got my bike, I looked at the Garmin devices at the bike store (Bike Barn, Houston, TX) and they were pretty expensive.

I ended up with a Cateye Stealth 50 and later got the heart rate monitor and cadence/speed sensors.

Overall I've been pretty happy with it. The display is easy to read while riding, I don't run my phone battery down, uploads to Strava are easy.

u/samsmaster · 2 pointsr/ebikes

Grin Technologies Universal Front Torque Arm Version 3 for Electric Bikes / ebikes

u/livetoride · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Get one with a cadence function. I have this one and its been great, Cateye Strada Cadence wired.

u/RedUltimatum · 2 pointsr/bicycling

One I mentioned, the Strada Cadence would be a good choice if you don't mind wires. There is a wireless version for nearly double the price (which is BS if you ask me, but wireless is damn good to have).

Here is Bontrager's wired w/cadence and wireless (which does not include sensor).

u/Apocalypse10k · 2 pointsr/bicycling

I've been cycling for nearly 3 years now and the improvements are vast. I now do Triathlons and the cycle part is my best leg of the race. Forget most of the BS you read online about the importance of bike weight, components, etc. Unless you are going pro, most of that is unimportant for beginners. Here is the skinny based on real-world riding:

  • Cadence is key - Get yourself a cheap bike speedometer with cadence meter like this. The faster and more consistently you can pedal, the more improvements you will see. Adjust your bike gears to always maintain a certain cadence range, regardless of speed or terrain. Try to slowly build up to faster cadence ranges. As you get stronger, you will automatically get faster.
  • Go Clipless - Invest in a set of clips and cleats. This will change the way you ride and your enjoyment of it. Clipless pedals keep a consistent foot position on your pedals and force you to get momentum on down-pedals as well as up-pedals. Even the cheapest clipless pedals will improve your riding.
  • Consistent rotation - When pedaling, try to maintain a full range of motion on your legs. Think in terms of pedaling in circles instead of 'ovals' (applying force on the way down only). By keeping a consistent rotation, you will improve your speed and reduce effort.
  • Keep your knees 'in' - Fight the natural urge to turn your knees out. Knees should remain directly atop of your foot for maximizing power ratio and reducing injury.
  • Get professionally fitted for your bike - Most people don't know where their optimal seat position, height, lean angle, foot position and pedal force are. I can't tell you how many times I see people with seats too high or a bike that is too small, waddling on their saddle as they ride. When you get more into it, get fitted by a professional shop. To get started, you can do it yourself. There are tons of guides and videos online that show you how, like this one

    Most importantly, ride often. Get to know your body and don't be afraid to push beyond your limits. You'd be amazed how quickly you will improve from 11mph to 22mph if you keep it up. Your upgrades will come with time and are more a matter of preference, as you'll want to get lighter, faster and more aerodynamic.

    Good luck.
u/brewyet · 2 pointsr/MTB

Cateye Strada is a nice computer and no cables:

Also a smart phone app isn't as accurate, but you can get a few more stats from it, and its easier to compile them.

u/munkyyy · 2 pointsr/AustralianCattleDog i use this to check out our mph while were moving and see how he doing. You should be good to go past a mile, these dogs have crazy stamina. You just have to build it up the way humans have to. But it sounds like you guys do a mile regularly, go for 2 and see how your pup does.

u/UserM16 · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Awesome so far. And it's compatible with most phones and cases.

u/headwindseverywhere · 2 pointsr/bicycling

I used one like this for a while before I got my Wahoo heartrate monitor and Rflkt to track them more accurately. And with the HRM you can find out your zones to get a really good workout (assuming that's why you want to track calories.)

u/i_am_viet · 2 pointsr/bicycling

I used the following with my Samsung Galaxy 3 when I first started out cycling

It works great and doesn't break the bank.

However, after a couple of months I retired the mount + phone set up. Strava eats through batteries quick. I invested $90 on a Garmin Edge 200. Less profile and way longer battery life.

u/AverageAndNotJoe · 2 pointsr/ebikes

I'm also looking into building my first bike and have been reading a lot of suggestions on this sub about torque arms. I guess they have been through a few revisions because the early ones didn't work well enough. So don't order the cheapest one because it is for safety and you want it to work! Here's what I've gathered others recommending, but someone can correct me if there is a better one out there. Grin V3

u/SwervingNShit · 2 pointsr/cycling

So I was going to get this, CatEye Strada 430, it's wireless and has the peripherals for speed, cadence and HR included for $112 USD, BUT I ended up getting a wired CatEye with only speed and cadence since the consensus I've seen while watching GCN does science and a few posts here is that HR does not matter TOO MUCH, you can't help your heart rate, slowing it down or speeding it up. Anyways, here's what I got, CatEye Strada Cadence, $31USD

u/bnich11 · 2 pointsr/golf

Cell phone Holder

Water Bottle Holder

Umbrella Holder

I have yet to attach the water bottle holders to my cart, so I can't give you any advice on those, but the cell phone holder and umbrella holder are tits. The umbrella holder is a little wobbly since its all plastic and you're trying to clamp onto foam. The cell phone holder is a pretty nice touch. No more carrying it in your pocket, or digging through your bag. If you like to use golf course apps or listen to music this little thing is awesome. Just be careful how you position the phone, since the clamping mechanism always hits my volume buttons.

Next, I'd like to get a mesh sack for underneath the handle to toss broken tees, or golf balls into while I play.

u/Har02052 · 1 pointr/cycling

Wahoo RPM Cycling Speed and Cadence Sensor, Bluetooth / ANT+

These are pretty basic but work well. $70

u/unreqistered · 1 pointr/bicycletouring

Water resistant, simple to use, easy top mount in a variety of configurations.

Canada Amazon link, mount is slightly different

u/turtlelordjp · 1 pointr/bikecommuting

I use this mount, and it has held up really well for over a year.

u/DrUsual · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

In keeping with your sighting theme, I'll link this [hiking compass.] ( I think your left over amount is going to be $3.14, of course.

And what a fun purchase! I hope you get a lot of enjoyment out of it!

u/mvmntsofthemind · 1 pointr/Android

Wow that is terrible. I got a handleband and it works really well and is way more elegant.

u/TheJerseyDevil123 · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon
A must have for any survival kit is a good compass. I chose my username because I'm from New Jersey and as a marine I'm used to being called Devil plus we have the local legend so it kinda worked thanks

u/leadnpotatoes · 1 pointr/bicycling

and this

u/fractals83 · 1 pointr/cycling

Thanks for all the feedback guys, I went with in the end. Really great case so far and have used it on short and long distance.

u/atlasMuutaras · 1 pointr/bicycling

Okay, follow up question. Given the choice between wireless and a cadence sensor, which would you chose?

The choice is not purely academic. Apparently you can get one or the other at the higher end of my price range.

u/bostrowski13 · 1 pointr/bikecommuting

I'm a simple man. I have a bright green backpack, 2 rear niterider lights and 1 front light, and a phone holster for blasting progressive metal and checking the time.

Edit: guess I have fenders too.

SKS-Germany Shockblade Fender, 28"-29", Black

SKS-Germany X-Blade Fender, 28"-29", Black

Nite Ize HandleBand Universal Smartphone Bike Handlebar Mount, Black

NiteRider Lumina 750 Boost Combo - Performance Exclusive BLACK

u/YourInternetHistory · 1 pointr/Charlotte

For sale I have my 2015 Scott CR1 30. Size 58/XL I am 6'1" and I love the fit of this bike. This bike is in great condition and has only 600 miles to its name. I bought this bike specifically to do a triathlon and now that I have that complete I am selling it to focus on running.

This bike new cost $1299+tax (MSRP says $1499, but I only paid 1299). So I have it listed at $750, for a 600 mile old carbon fiber bike you won't beat it. It has been serviced twice in the 600 miles I have had it, both times at the Trek store in Ballantyne.

Specs link:

Included with the bike: Saddle bag with spare tube and tire levers ($35 value), frame mounted tire pump ($35 value), rear light ($10 value), Shimano PD-M520 SPD Pedals ($30 value)

Below are the add-ons you can add for extra on top of the $750:

u/dont_bug_me · 1 pointr/FixedGearBicycle

I'm with you. I got one of these, and it definitely puts my phone right where a bike computer would be for the time being.

u/nogustanada · 1 pointr/FixedGearBicycle

I use this computer when I'm on my roller then I just put what I got on there on Strava to keep track of all my mileage and etc.

I just use electrical tape to put the computer on when I'm on the roller and peal it off when I go ride outside since it doesn't record elevation. So far works like a charm.

u/Jacks_Grin · 1 pointr/tacticalgear

Civ here, gonna get an IR reflective flag patch like the one you have (I'm guessing). I thought you only get the reverse flag for the shoulder?


Water, check
TQ, check
ammo, check,
pack, check.

  • 1 change of clothes
  • Provisions (high calorie good nutrient)
  • large knife
  • concealed back up pistol in case you are disarmed
  • 1 bobby pin
  • 2 handcuff keys - one in your bag and one on your person.
  • pocket saw
  • water filter
  • a good pair of gloves (I've got camelback magnums, they're awesome)
  • Compass
  • Magnesium fire starter
  • emergency blanket
  • bug spray you'll thank me
  • a couple contractor trash bags (this will help waterproof your shelter and it's amazing insulation.
  • medkit (you said its on your list)
  • sighting device (unless you have a scope on your rifle)
  • flares/flaregun
  • chemical lights
  • flashlight
  • bear mace
  • compact cookset for boiling water, cooking/retaining nutrients.
  • 100 ft paracord
  • toilet paper or wet wipes (trust me)
  • 1 bar antimicrobal/antibacterial soap
  • toothbrush/paste

    and then depending on where you live, you may want some climbing equpment, like a descender or ascender and some rope.
u/S1ocky · 1 pointr/bicycling

Most of the Garmin line is ANT+ only (or at least that was the case when I was digging into this last year), and generally considered to be the standard. They are also similarly priced (if not a little cheaper- see links) to the Wahoo ones, which is also compatable with iOS.

Garmin Bike Speed Sensor and Cadence Sensor

Wahoo RPM Speed and Cadence sensor for iPhone, Android and Bike Computers

u/sickrefman · 1 pointr/bicycling

I use wahoo app which connects to my cadence and speed sensors that they also sell. Costs about $70, each sensor is $40 individually

Amazon Wahoo RPM Speed and Cadence sensor for iPhone, Android and Bike Computers

I use an OtterBox universe series and the bike mount, keeps my phone in place even in the most bumpy street settings.

u/gnartung · 1 pointr/bicycling

You're the man. Thanks.
>I'm guessing this one based on it's price/review ratio. It's the one that I am probably going to get.
Cateye CC-RD300W Strada Wireless Bicycle Computer (Black)

u/TickTockCroc · 1 pointr/motorcycles

Awesome, thanks a ton!

I couldn't find the BC800, but this one seems like it'll work, too. Do you think this one will be fine?

u/dragonglass · 1 pointr/Strava

Thanks for the recommendation. I don't think that's the right solution for me. I found this Sigma BC16.12 which I think I am going to go with.

u/Rehd · 1 pointr/bicycling

The [CatEye Strada Wireless Bicycle Computer (Black) CC-RD300W] ( is exactly what you are looking for. I would recommend to go for the cadence upgrade personally, but that's up to you. Otherwise, no difference between the models. The CatEye Strada Digital Cadence Wireless Computer has served me well for up to 1000 miles now. The only thing to keep in mind is that you may want to buy extra zip ties as they will break over time. Usually every 500 miles you would want to replace them but it's about 3 bucks for 100 ties. So it's not horrible to do or time consuming.

The cadence upgrade is nice because you can make sure you're not pedaling too slow or too fast and are always at an optimal spin rate.

u/farski · 1 pointr/cycling seems to fit the bill; anything from Cateye should hold up fine over time. At <$40 you're not going to get much in the way of features or flair, especially if you want cadence. The selection of wired computers is smaller than it used to be, so there just aren't as many options.

u/Endlesscube23 · 1 pointr/ebikes

Beat me to the torque arm warning. If the front fork fails from the torque of the motor you're looking at a high chance of a fatality.

Grin Technologies Universal Front Torque Arm Version 3 for Electric Bikes / ebikes

u/mountainunicycler · 1 pointr/bicycling

Garmin Vivoactive HR with the compatible cadence sensor (though I stuck it directly to my bike with double sided tape because I think the rubber bands look ugly).

u/helix6 · 1 pointr/bicycling

I use a Cateye Strada Cadence. It's wired but it's reliable for the price.

u/dablya · 1 pointr/bicycling

Would this be an ok cheap one?

u/animalarmament · 1 pointr/bicycling

Cateyes are nice. I wouldn't get one with gps, it costs a bunch and doesn't give you much utility in return. I think it's nice to have a second sensor for cadence, if I were buying a new computer that would be one of my main criteria (I inherited a cateye without cadence, but I can approximate it from my speed since I ride fixed atm). Going wired will save you money and it's not hassle once it's installed. I'd say go for the Strada Cadence.

u/lantech · 1 pointr/wireless

>pinpoint accuracy isn't required

Came here to say this. It's not a laser. Every antenna has a specification for the degrees. A compass would be a good way to do it. Get the azimuth required for both sides and aim.

u/EnterTheFist · 1 pointr/bicycling

GUB Mountian Bike Phone Mount - Aluminum Alloy Universal Adjustable Bike Mount Cell Phone GPS Mount Holder Rotating Cradle Clamp for Bicycle Motorbike,iPhone Samsung Android All Smartphones (BLACK)

It attaches directly to your top cap or to the handlebars. I've had it about 6 months and my phone has never come loose. I keep a basic silicone case on my phone, no additional parts to attach it.

u/women_are_pretty · 1 pointr/bicycling

Has anyone used the Wahoo speed and cadence sensors? Are ANT+ devices any good?

u/ppardee · 1 pointr/cycling

Honestly, for under $50, I'd go with a smart phone mount and Strava on your phone UNLESS you don't have a waterproof phone and may ride in the rain.

You're going to compromise a lot at that price point. If you just want a dedicated cycling computer for cheap, you can go with something like

And then save up for a better computer if you find it doesn't meet your needs.

Is there some functionality you're looking for specifically?

u/wirehead · 1 pointr/bicycling

I think having a speedometer is fun. It's fun to say "Gee, I'm going past 25 going down that hill". It's fun to say "Gee, I used to be going 10 mph, now I'm going 12 mph."

Popular options are:

u/calloused · 1 pointr/bicycling

Bikemake Slim Case

Inexpensive, fits great and you don't have to buy a new case/mount when you get a new phone.

u/GVLaker09 · 1 pointr/bicycling

No problem. If you don't have a LBS that you prefer to shop from, you can get it on Amazon and only spend around $15.

u/squatsmobile · 1 pointr/cycling

I'm just a commuter interested in gathering statistics and logging data from my rides. For 4 years I have been using a cheap $12 schwinn computer. It has dropped off and ran over by vehicles a multitude of times and the damage is obvious however it operates just dandy for my purpose.

Just like my lesson learned from a multitude of broken sunglasses, some things are better going cheap.

Edit: I do also use strava on my mobile but it gets placed in a saddle pack.

u/joebooty · 1 pointr/cycling

This thing has been getting some great reviews and I am thinking of pulling the trigger on it. If anyone here has used it I would love a first hand account.

u/JimmyBisMe · 1 pointr/Denver

It's a 2013 Motobecane Gran Premio. Steel frame with Shimano 105 parts on it. There will be some slight white scratches on the left side of the top tube.

Everything you see in the first photo was on the bike except for the camelbak bottles. This includes [a Satechi Bikemate Slim Case] (, a [Cosmos bike speaker] (, an Avenir Big Mouth bag, a Mirrycle bell, a Planet Bike Super Flash, and two Topeak black plastic adjustable bottle cages.

The bike was stolen near Johnson and Wales university. I previously registered the bike and serial with the police in my hometown and I will be able to recover the serial number tomorrow.

Thanks in advance for keeping an eye out!

u/grandzooby · 1 pointr/triathlon

I like the Sigma bike computers and have them on both my bikes. My newest bike has this model:

Sigma Sport BC16.12 16 Function Bicycle Computer

It gives you speed, distance, and cadence. Though I personally find I don't need cadence much.

I then use an old cell phone with Allsport GPS to track where I go and how long it takes.

As a beginner in triathlons, I'm finding it to be a somewhat gear-intensive and expensive hobby. I think the trick is to find where you can skimp and where you need to pay a premium. My feeling is a bike computer can be in that "skimp" category... a little bit of money will get you a good computer.

u/redsx16 · 1 pointr/GooglePixel

This mount would scare me. I got this one which has a band that goes over the screen. Takes part of the screen away but is more secure in my eyes.

u/mikeswiz · 1 pointr/cycling

I recently bought a [cateye strada cadence] ( to use while training and on the road and once it's installed it's great. Installation was a bit of a pain though and took me a few hours, although I'm a bit OCD when it comes to routing wires.

u/dschindhelm · 1 pointr/bicycling

Yeah. I have this $10 Schwinn device.

u/xxenclavexx · 1 pointr/bicycling

I use this not the best mount, but works great on my road bike with runkeeper.

u/farberino · 1 pointr/rva

Selling Sunny Fitness spin bike, with Wahoo cadence sensor and Shimano clipless pedals. Total cost to me was about $400, it's all only about a year old and I haven't really used it that much (I much prefer running and rowing). It's a great setup for a poor man's Peloton experience. Looking for $300 but open to offers.

u/25jon25 · 1 pointr/MTB

I have one of these on my motorcycle and on my mtb. Second season riding with my phone mounted there. Hasn’t moved the slightest bit even once.

u/SUCOL · 1 pointr/cycling

You don't need wireless, it just becomes a pain in the rear to change the batteries on both, but what are you using it for Road or Mt?

I just bought a wired one with Cadence link, which is really useful for the triathlons and time trials i do, but if your not into that theres cheaper than what your looking for that do basically the same thing, mentioned in the other comments

u/wlozier02 · 1 pointr/bicycling

I found this one, but any idea why the one you linked is cheaper? It seems better to me. Would you recommend one over the other?

u/INT3J3r9 · 1 pointr/hiking

GPS is great, but batteries die and in some places like slot canyons and heavily forested valleys it can be tough to get a signal.

For full-on land-nav courses, I personally prefer the military compasses. They're the most accurate, durable, and useful in my experience. The Cammenga with tritium runs about $75-100.

For non-military compasses, I'd recommend the Silva Ranger or any of the Suunto MC series.

But honestly, even just a basic acrylic map compass will work for most outdoor exploits.

u/horpadorp · -1 pointsr/bicycling

I have this computer, and really enjoy it. I find it to be reasonably priced, but if you would like a wireless computer, there is also this option.