(Part 2) Best engine tools according to redditors
We found 124 Reddit comments discussing the best engine tools. We ranked the 46 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
take apart a C or D cell conventional battery.. it will have a carbon rod in the middle.. find one that has what ever size that bolt thread is.. thread it.. carefully thread the carbon rod into the what is left of the cleaned out hole.. use a wire tube brush.. weld the head up with nickel rod with the now threaded carbon rod in the hole. you will usually end up with a threaded hole.. after you have welded ..
you don't have to weld it up to the port surface.. making you have to grind it flat to put the manifold on either.
a former boss showed that to me decades ago.. when partial ears would break off Ford FE heads..
crank grinders have tapered carbon pins they shove in crankshaft oil passages when they have to weld up a journal to bring it back to size..
and for the non believers.. https://www.amazon.com/Carbon-Crankshaft-Welding-Plugs-365/dp/B00XLWJM9Y
It's not an SK tool, it's a cheap Chinese one that happens to have SK on the case for some reason.
There should be two pin holes that fit a spanner-like belt tensioner tool like this
I suggest this as it can scan ABS and SRS codes and live data monitoring. I have this in my work truck at all times, just in case.
Autel MaxiLink ML619 CAN OBD2 Scanner Code Reader +ABS/SRS Diagnostic Scan Tool, Turns off Engine Light (MIL) and ABS/SRS Warning Lights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072XH9GLW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TLgoDbWN50SAF
I’m not a fan of the phone adapter ones myself, but I’ve heard some people like this with similar options
BlueDriver LSB2 Bluetooth Pro OBDII Scan Tool for iPhone & Android https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00652G4TS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5OgoDb6XGEKRR
You can get the lower tier options that can only read/erase codes but have no SRS/ABS ability for under $50.
Autel AutoLink AL319 OBD2 Scanner Automotive Engine Fault Code Reader CAN Scan Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XE8C74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_K2goDb06ZB4RZ
https://www.amazon.com/Ford-2-3-Timing-Tensioner-Tool/dp/B06XSPCN8R
Here is the adapter and here is the gauge.
https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-648455-Flywheel-Turning-Tool/dp/B001CZJ4J0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1494293163&sr=8-2&keywords=flywheel+turner i actually made mine years ago, but they work great
The Lisle tool is the best one. I like it better than my snap-on belt tool. They make 2 different tools, both should cover just about everything on the road that requires a tool, some don't require a belt tool.
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-59000-Ratcheting-Serpentine-Belt/dp/B0019CQL2E
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-59800-Serpentine-Belt-Tool/dp/B001PNFRZE
There is a separate ac compressor belt. It's a stretch fit belt which is an absolute nightmare to put on. I would follow this guy's tutorial. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NTyZeHB_lYc
I bought the gates stretch belt tool and it was pretty useless. There's not enough room to actually put on the bolt to keep the gates tool on the crankshaft.
In addition, one trick I figured out is that if you are one or two 'grooves' off between teh belt and the pulley, you can use the thin cardboard packaging material from the new belt to help you. Let the cardboard wrap around belt and the ac pulley. Once it fully wraps around, you'll be able to push the belt around to let it line up properly.
I had an impact, but it was electric. Rated for 300 ft/lbs. though. But it didn't do shit. Finally rigged up a bunch of extensions, and a big ass socket wrench with a metal 6' fence post stuck on the end. Then I put a tool similar to this on the pulley to keep it from spinning and was able to twist that guy right out of there.
Not sure how hard it will be but I'll ask my friend to help me with this. Thanks for the heads up! I was advised to use this tool as well.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005EKZH5Y/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_RhtzwbHW19FK9
Again Im not saying you personally fucked it up. I'm saying in my opinion someone fucked it up via timing, my guess would be failing to set the cams in their neutral position and restrain the cams so they don't get knocked forward or backward and smack a piston. And again my opinion, I'm not attempting to argue or send this so far off topic as to be entirely of topic.
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-Tools-7011-14-51mm-Ball/dp/B0019M0O2M/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1511455950&sr=1-1&keywords=2+inch+ball+hone
Try something like this hone inside of your plates, we used them in the bike shops I worked in to de-burr steel and aluminium seat post tube to prevent gouging the seatpost.
short answer, yes. long answer, aluminum is great at conducting heat. You need a ton of power to get it to melt because the metal soaks the heat away from the puddle. You will notice that the weld is hard to get going but about an inch in the puddle really starts looking good because you finally have enough heat in the part. thin metal doesn't have the cross-sectional area to draw the heat away so you can get away without a pre-heat but anything above 3/16 sheet and a good solid 150-200 degree pre-heat can do wonders for your day.
these help
https://www.amazon.com/Temperature-Indicating-Crayon-200-Deg/dp/B00XLWT4QK/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542324548&sr=8-1-fkmr2&keywords=200+degree+heat+crayons+welding
Maybe if it has good pressure to get it up to spec.
But best to buy the $11 tool just in case.
https://smile.amazon.com/8milelake-Crankshaft-Damper-Pulley-Holding/dp/B0183KQ1JC
222,565 miles on the engine. I did not take care of the car very well because I was always broke. The oil pressure gauge is an 8milelake oil pressure gauge going directly into the block. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0186NTKP8/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1473554210&sr=1-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&dpPl=1&dpID=51YATmE4BNL&ref=plSrch
You can get a cam lock for the B20 engine in that Cr-v. Here is the first link I found. There are a lot of different ones but they generally install the same way between the cam gears. As others have stated, the tool isn't actually necessary but it helps, especially if it's your first time with that engine.
*looking around a little more, the price from the one I linked seems about $10 higher than others. Shop around.
It's $27 for all of the things you need to lock the timing. If you can't afford $27 you certainly won't be able to afford a new engine if that job goes wrong.
https://www.amazon.com/Engine-Timing-Locking-Tool-Chevrolet/dp/B01M7OR7DU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1504277032&sr=8-4&keywords=en-6625+locking
I ordered this
Lisle 39000 Pulley Puller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XEX00A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_unJMAbR981SGN
It has the handle so it doesn't spin while you try and remove the pulley. If they'll do it I might just cancel the order tho.