Best ethernet cables according to redditors

We found 1,547 Reddit comments discussing the best ethernet cables. We ranked the 661 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

Next page


Cat 5 ethernet cables
Cat 5e ethernet cables
Cat 6 ethernet cables
Cat 7 ethernet cables

Top Reddit comments about Ethernet Cables:

u/ilikethefinerthings · 223 pointsr/cableporn

I only use the EZ-RJ45 ends now. Never going back to ones you can't push the wires all the way through.

I also use the special crimper designed to automatically cut excess cable off.

u/JustDroppinBy · 48 pointsr/techsupportmacgyver

Seriously. $16 or less could have prevented this eyesore. Now he's going to have to buy spackle and paint the walls again.

u/dvaldes409 · 29 pointsr/buildapcsales

Mediabridge Ethernet Cable (15 Feet) - Supports Cat6/5e/5, 550MHz, 10Gbps - RJ45 Cord (Part# 31-399-15X )

That is 23awg vs the 30awg on this flat cable. The one I linked also is rated up to 500-550mhz. The flat one is only 250mhz. The one I linked is true copper, this one is more than likely copper clad aluminum. Other than that, true spec cat6 is not only twisted pairs but also all the pairs themselves twist around the cable. There's also foil shielding, I don't think this flat cable has it. Like I said, most people wouldn't notice a difference especially if you are nowhere near gigabit speeds. If you often transfer files between computers ( or other things ) at gigabit speeds then I would invest a bit more on higher quality cables.

u/SolaceWithin · 26 pointsr/buildapc

I fail to see how offloading the minuscule bit of processing power to the network card is going to be at all noticeable in the long run. I have an onboard Realtek GBE in my 3 year old gaming rig and have gigabit NICs in all my important computers (HTPC/server/gaming laptop), all hardwired, and I get between 60-90MBs transfer rates across them, including my RAID 5 DAS.

I ping under 15ms to most every server in my city and my bandwidth is all but lacking(EDIT: FWIW I have a Motorola SB6120 and a Linksys E3000).

I think it's much much more important to make sure your devices are simply running gigabit and put that money toward a pull box, a gigabit router, and gigabit switches. Make sure if you're on a cable connection you have a DOCSIS 3 modem and you have a strong signal from your ISP. I can't imagine any better performance with a dedicated network "gaming" card than I'm getting currently.

u/xiaodown · 25 pointsr/techsupportgore

It's not too terribly difficult, honestly. I enjoy it. There's a bunch of ways, but here's some tips that I have figured out.

  • Label your cable ends (either use a label maker or just get one of these booklets).
  • Two people make it go more than twice as fast. Buy pizza for a friend.
  • Leave the cable box at the source, pull cable to the destination.
  • Get a set of fish sticks for sending wire down/up walls. Buy a couple of rolls of electrical tape, too, for taping wire to the fish sticks.
  • Measure to the same height as the electrical outlets in the wall for a clean look. Get the same color faceplates and keystone jacks as the electrical system already has.
  • Make sure you use a stud finder with AC electrical alerting before you cut.
  • When you are ready to cut a hole in the wall, take a wall box eliminator, flip it backwards, and trace the inside with pencil. Then cut with a utility knife. I find that a dremel saves time but creates a LOT of dust, and really isn't that much easier.
  • Pull the cable (or fish stick) through until you've got a good 2-3 feet sticking out of the wall. If you think you're EVER going to need more than one jack in this room, run it now (it is easier to buy two boxes of cable than one, and run two cables simultaneously).
  • Put the wall box eliminator in the wall, and fold the tines back / screw the holders in (they all basically have some mechanism of "grabbing" the wall, to give you a hole in the wall with the two faceplate screw holes like an electrical wall box has, but without the box - which is safe because it's low voltage (don't do this for real electrical work!!!))
  • Cut off the first 6 inches or so of the cable with your dikes, because it might have been fucked up being taped to a fish stick and rammed through the wall, etc.
  • Strip off the outer jacket of another 4-5 inches using your cyclops stripping tool.
  • Terminate into the rj45 keystone jack using a punchdown tool.
  • Even though, technically, as long as the jacks have the same wiring pattern on both ends, in America, we use EIA/TIA 568-B as our wiring standard. This will be displayed on the side of your RJ45 jack.
  • In your wiring closet, leave a loop of 6 feet or so (for future upgrades/troubleshooting), and then terminate all the cable ends into a labeled patch panel.
  • Pop your RJ45 jack into the keystone hole in the faceplate. (tab down, you don't want dust to settle into the wire contacts), and screw in your faceplate. Label it, if you can do so and it looks nice ("Living Room 1", etc) so it corresponds to the patch panel in the basement/closet/etc.

    Congrats, you've run a cable! It's female at both ends, so you can just use a patch cable to run from the wall to your PC, and from the patch panel to your switch, to your modem/router, etc. This wire is now a part of the infrastructure of your house - you won't have to cut anything out when you leave, you just unplug the wires and leave the infrastructure for the next person.

    Hope this helps.
u/minionascii · 25 pointsr/salty

If you can afford to pay 60~ bucks for a new fighting game then you should be able to afford 6 dollars for an ethernet cable, right?

u/TarantulaG · 17 pointsr/dbfz

4th thing to add ethernet cables are extremely cheap so yeah wire your shit up!!!

u/zach0011 · 15 pointsr/gaming
u/port53 · 14 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Get EZ connectors and this problem goes away:

Platinum Tools 100010C EZ-RJ45 Cat 6+ Connectors, Clamshell, 50-Pieces

Don't forget the associated EZ crimpers too.

u/S7ormstalker · 13 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Not all Cat 6 connectors have 2 pieces and not all are staggered (like these). Plus you can't really tell if they're staggered from that side with potato quality image

u/colblitz · 13 pointsr/leagueoflegends

how about a 300ft cable, though untangling and rolling this back up is a bitch... not like I speak from experience... >_>

u/arcno · 11 pointsr/networking

Assuming that each run goes from the jack in the wall back to the junction box, it is very easy to fix the wiring. Begin by pulling off all of the wall plates, and check to see if all 8 wires are terminated in the jack.


If they are, I would purchase a patch panel and terminate all of the wires in it. You need to make sure the color layout on the jacks is the same as the panel, because there are two different standards. You can find this out by looking on the jack itself, and you should see a template that states A and B, and the wires SHOULD (as long as the low voltage installer was competent) follow one of those standards. Just write down which is being used, and then use the same standard when terminating the other end of the wires in the patch panel. The only tool you need to accomplish this is a punch down tool.

As long as the wires are in the wall, the hard part is done! Terminating them just takes a little time, but is very easy to do. Once you have them terminated in the patch panel, throw in a switch/router and you are all set!

u/joebobcooter · 11 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Can't really tell from this picture, but alot of times, it looks like ethernet, but it ends up not being terminated correctly, or setup for something like voice only or some other non-standard thing.

If it were me, I'd make a small investment in the following;

  1. Some sort of cable tester - everyone has their favorite - look for one that can show you whether all the pairs are setup properly -

    If you are lucky, whomever setup that panel wired it correctly, and the runs will test out. If you are not lucky, you'll need to take the next step and fix it yourself. This will require some more stuff;
  2. a standard punch-down panel - something like this -
  3. A punch-down tool - either a cheap one ( or one that is a little more robust (

    There are many tutorials on the web on how to terminate Ethernet - essentially, you're going to need to make sure that the wires are terminated properly on the punch panel (in your living room) to the specifics on the keystone jack at the far end. Most likely, the jack at the far end looks something like this -

    If you get the connectivity right, and that cable has all the pairs (8), you should be able to connect, and be on the road.

    Not sure where you are located, but usually Fry's or MicroCenter is a good place to source these tools.

    Holler back if you need more info.
u/nosferobots · 11 pointsr/fo4

That is ridiculous. The most annoying answer you can get from any of us is "just spend money!!" which is stupid and beside the point. But in case you want a cheaper alternative to a $60 game, you COULD grab a 100ft ethernet cable [on amazon] ( and just run it to the modem to upload your saves once in a while and store it when you're not using it. Lame, I know.

Sorry man, this is crap. I play on PC but I have an XBONE and I'd be pissed if that happened to me.

u/ghettosorcerer · 11 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I'm a renter - I've learned to get ethernet all sorts of fun places without taking the hassle or expense of running cables through walls and under floors.

Step 1 - What you need:#

Buy 100 ft. of flat, white, Cat 6 cable - something like this will do.

You'll also want some white gaffer tape. Be SURE you get gaffer tape, and not duct tape. It's just strong enough to string up cable, and won't peel paint. Something like this.

Pour yourself a glass of lemonade. We'll come back to this later.

Step 2 - What to do:#

Here's where you get to be creative.

Find the crown moulding where the walls meets the ceilings and floors of your house. The little creases are perfect for disguising that thin white cable. I have hundreds of feet of ethernet going all over my house, and it's practically invisible. If you don't have crown moulding, improvise. Match the tape to your paint colors on your walls. Take your time, measure twice, and an extra pair of hands is always helpful. Be sure to be gentle with Cat6, especially with sharp bends and corners.

You also might want a couple ethernet switches on either end, depending on what your needs are. I've had good luck with TP-Link switches, they're fairly affordable, but people don't seem to like them very much around here.

Step 3 - Drink that glass of lemonade from earlier.

'Cause you're done, baby. Enjoy your gigabit LAN.

P.S. If you've got any more questions or whatever, shoot me a message. This sub is a VERY helpful resource, too.

u/lenswipe · 11 pointsr/boston

Yeah, don't buy their router, or WiFi extenders. $150 for a router and $150 for a WiFi extender...thats $300. For that money you could buy two enterprise grade access points ( @ $149/each and then go a wee bit over budget for a run of ethernet cable for each of them( @ $16.99 each. Then run the Unifi controller on a spare computer you have lying around and you have a WiFi setup that will blow that Quantum Gateway piece of shit out of the water.

If that's too much trouble, then Unifi have an all-in-one box for $299.99 ( You have to be an early access member to see that link, but it's free to sign up and enable "Early Access". In general, Unifi gear always gets my vote because it's much, much better value than anything else I can find.

But seriously, if I'm paying the money verizon are charging for a router, I expect almost fucking Cisco gear. Not some made in shenzhen cheap piece of shit.

u/sixtypercentcriminal · 10 pointsr/howto

Most of what lbstrange1 wrote is incorrect.

That is a 66 block. It is completely unnecessary unless you are planning on having multiple phone lines in your home. Pull off all of the wires and throw the 66 block away.

If you want to go the cheap route just crimp RJ45 male connectors onto the end of each cable. There are YouTube videos that will show you how to properly crimp them. Make sure you are using 568B configuration.

If you want to make it look nice buy one of these:

Use the previously mentioned punch down tool to terminate the wires. DO NOT strip the wires first. Make sure you punch it down as 568B.

I'm willing to bet that your home builder's contractor installed RJ11 phone jacks throughout your home. If so you'll need these:

Install them at each wall jack location using 568B configuration.

Finally, you'll need a switch as was previously stated. However it does not connect directly to your modem. You need to connect it to your router.

u/themoore · 10 pointsr/sysadmin

Yes! Use these all the time with great success. You'll need the crimpers to go with them as they cut off the extra wire.

u/ninjosh97 · 10 pointsr/FellowKids
u/Kaiosama · 10 pointsr/dragonballfighterz

This was a godsend.

My PS4 is downstairs, but the ethernet box is in a laundry room upstairs. The flat cable allows me to connect under doors even when they're closed.

And they're pretty cheap, even at that length.

u/plc268 · 10 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Then get a really long ethernet cord and run it alongside the baseboards. If you get one of those slim flat ethernet cables, then you'll barely know it's there. You can secure it with sticky mounts and zip ties, use plastic staples, or use a staple gun.

u/zardvark · 8 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I wouldn't risk my network hardware on, "Gee, I don't think the other end is connected to anything ..." You won't be a happy camper, if you let the smoke out!

I think the problem is that the PC board shorts everything together, in order to distribute a telephone line(s) throughout the house. You will want to remove that PC board and terminate each off those cables individually at a patch panel, such as this:

Then from the patch panel, you'll need patch cables to connect each line to a switch.

u/SEMobster · 8 pointsr/dragonballfighterz
u/friday9x · 8 pointsr/buildapcsales

Saw this on Slickdeals, hopefully it helps you all as much as it does me! While your at it, change your amazon smile to the EFF to help fight for net neutrality!

25' Cat 6 Ethernet Cable (White)
$4.58 w/ promo code RR99ROJL

50' Cat 6 Ethernet Cable (White)
$6.09 w/ promo code CQTGWYYH

100' Cat 6 Ethernet Cable (White)
$10.48 w/ promo code TWEGP5DO

50' Cat 6 Ethernet Cable (Black)
$6.09 w/ promo code H2CHE27H

6-Pack 1' Cat 6 Ethernet Cable (White)
$5.96 w/ promo code BW7VDF6M

6-Pack 1' Cat 6 Ethernet Cable (Black)
$5.96 w/ promo code MDJ5FGIM


3-Pack 6' Cat 6 Ethernet Cable (White)
$6.34 w/ promo code 89QBRPS2

u/thebestof_super · 8 pointsr/torrents

2.4 GHz works best over long ranges.

5.0 GHz, while faster, is only for short distances.

So depending on how far away you are from the router, this could explain the loss of internet on 5.0 GHz.

Also, try using a wired Ethernet cord. This will give you the max speeds your ISP allows. They are cheap on Amazon, 50 ft for 10$.

u/clackdaggers · 7 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Paying someone to run Ethernet is a huge waste of money. Even with buying all the tools and supplies yourself you will save lots of money.

In your situation I would go up into the attic then run down into the walls to your wall jacks.

Stuff you'll need: (not including drywall saw and gang boxes/gang frames to mount the wall jacks) Crimper315/dp/B008UY5WL0/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1457464334&sr=1-2&keywords=rj45 /ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1457464421&sr=1-2&keywords=wire+fish wall-plates

For around $165.00 you'll have everything you need. Less if you need less than 1000' of cable.

It's true that the cable I listed is not plenum rated but you're not going to be in the attic if your house is on fire anyway. I wouldn't worry about it or waste the money on it.

I've installed hundreds of miles of cat5 in my earlier career before switching to sysadmin stuff.

u/azimir · 7 pointsr/cablefail

For small home setups, I've had plenty of luck with patch panels like this one.

u/Ratatattat44 · 7 pointsr/computers

A few different companies make "EZ" RJ45 ends that are to be used with a crimper that has a blade that cuts off the excess. However, just like in the OPs picture, the first and last conductor rarely cut cleanly and it ends up being more trouble than it is worth.

Also, rule of thumb is B config for data, A config for phone. When in doubt, use B.


Cheap RJ45 cable tester

Bulk Premade CAT5E Cables

u/two2teps · 6 pointsr/techsupportgore

There is absolutely an easy fix. Two of these, mounted parallel to each other (like this = ) above the switch. Then 1-ft patch cables to the switch.

I'd also recommend turning the switch around so the patch cables are facing the doorway and not jammed into the little nook between the switch and the phone equipment. It has a right angle power cord so you could even move it in more towards the phone system.

u/CamoHiddenDJ · 6 pointsr/xboxone
u/orangecrushucf · 6 pointsr/Ubiquiti

I've seen flat ethernet cables that keep each pair twisted inside (this shows it in the 4th photo)

u/Butterd_Toost · 5 pointsr/electricians

That's definitely wired for pots. Buy an Ethernet patch panel like this:

and replace it.

Then connect your router or switch and away you go.

u/korpo53 · 5 pointsr/homelab

> I don't think there are any non-rack-mounted patch panels

"wall mount patch panel" is what you're looking for.

Those are much easier than screwing with keystones in a place you're going to have a bunch of cables.

u/xxkinetikxx · 5 pointsr/homedefense

Ok I read your post. Wireless can work, but it still needs power or batteries. I'm not a fan of batteries. I like direct power usually Power Over Ethernet that comes from the NVR (DVR). Plug the NVR into a battery backup and you'll still record if someone cuts power at least for a bit depending on the size of the battery back up. Mine stays up for an hour and it's plugged into a $60 battery backup.

How do you spread them through the house. You have some options.

1: Drag the network cables down the hall to the camera and plug in. (ghetto and ugly).

2: Enjoy the agony of attic crawls and do line drops to each camera. Might not be as uncomfortable or difficult as my install but I'm in Florida and I did my install in 90+f weather. Oh and the contractor decided that having random vaulted ceiling vertical drops was a great idea. Think I lost 10lbs in sweat.

3: Do option 1, use some flat Ethernet cable similar to this:

There is even thinner stuff. You can pull carpet to hide it, paint over it, just run it along base boards, get conduit whatever you decide.

Keep in mind some boxed systems utilize proprietary connections at the camera that make it appear its not your normal Ethernet cable. For the most part rest assured you can cut most of these and if you know how to crimp an RJ45 cable you can extend the cable via a female to female connector although I'd strongly suggest just getting cable long enough here's what the connector looks liks:

I've done about 50 installs for clients and friends (I don't advertise this but after 15 years of working in the IT industry and generally being a geek they become friends, ask and I oblige).

You mentioned you don't have a whole lotta money to spend. I already commented once. Stay away from Zmodo. Garbage.

I despise wifi unless its an impossible situation to install. I work and have been in the IT field for 17 years or so. WiFi is an amazing technology but for cameras. I'll pass with the exception of areas where drilling holes in the ceiling/wall (Historic homes for example) just doesn't make sense. I prefer hard wire reliability. PITA sometimes to install but once the lines there you're good to go regardless if you decide to upgrade in the future. Plus since you have hard wires ran if you wanna drop a hard wire in another room. Cut cable, crimp RJ45 ends on each side. Through a network switch in between and now you had hardwire where you had slow or spotty wifi :)

I find it really silly your hoa doesn't allow cameras. My HOA loves that I have cameras. I've been able to help return a truck full of Christmas presents, blast someone stealing political signs, caught a domestic violence (yea..... I actually live in a wonderful neighborhood but shit happens).

Personally when it comes to protecting, preserving, and doing everything in my power to look after my assets I'd tell my HOA to kiss my ass. They'd probably never even notice the cameras if you use bullet cams outside. So small unless you have those rubberneck type neighbors.

Anywho. Yea read the Amazon description. Some of them you have to pull 4-8 screws and plop a hard drive in. Read the reviews of the systems in your budget. Not just the good stuff, a lot of them are there as positive because vendors will send you a free wifi camera, or some other crap to write it. I admit I did it for Zmodo. Funny thing.... The day the wifi "gift" came in I lost the ability to connect to my system from a computer. Only direct or via mobile app. They're "seeking a fix".... For 3 months....

Any modern DVR/NVR has motion detection and most have the ability to draw a box to blank and area on the video to say to the DVR/NVR (hey ignore motion here) from the camera that may have constant motion (A fan, a highway, TV, etc) to save on drive space and allow you to keep video longer.

Personally I just buy the biggest drive I can and don't mask anything.

It's crazy that I didn't notice my Movado watch missing after a party (yea I'm still a bit young so it happens) at my place for over a month. Wen't back to that night and a buddy actually who was also hmmmm a bit 2 sheets 2 the wind but was looking out for my interests put it on top of my fridge all the way in the back. I run 8 cameras at 720p 24/7 and have about 60 days of video retention on my 4TB hard drive. (They're cheap).

UncleGrga that replied before me is spot on with his comments. Mount your cams outside, the HOA won't notice and if they do say anything you can always move them. Frankly I'm really curious why they won't allow that. Nobody notices my cameras. Trust me..... I've watch my neighbors do the silliest things. (I work from home, my NVR has an HDMI output so while I'm on the computer I keep it up on my flat screen TV just cause. (Well.... I have attractive stay at home moms that like to jog. hehe... Don't judge I'm young and single).

Again I live in one of the quietest unknown tight-nit subdivisions in this county.

Seeing your neighbor pick their nose, pull out a big one (720p cams only see so far and clarity falls fast so it was HUGE) and proceed to wipe it on her hubby's driver side door handle had me rolling.

Was even better watching him go to work.... I know.... I'm a bad person....

If you have anymore questions I'd be happy to reply. You can do this on a tight budget if you research.

u/Galfonz · 5 pointsr/AskElectronics

There is no industry standard for RS232 when using RJ-45 connectors. There are some documents that say they describe the pinout but they are for a specific unit, not a widespread standard.

Use an Ethernet cable as reschr suggests below. You can buy Ethernet jumpers to put on one end of a cable to turn it into an Ethernet extension cord. See

u/NoyzMaker · 5 pointsr/sysadmin

As a boss I would think you are out of your mind. I understand spare equipment, I wouldn't understand something you would use maybe twice in a single year.

I would immediately send you this and tell you to justify it: Cheap Fix

u/Drivingmecrazeh · 5 pointsr/techsupport

It doesn't matter - go for Cat5/Cat5E will suffice. Unless you have devices that support more than 1GB/sec bandwidth, you can use Cat5. If you need 10GB/sec, then go for CAT6.

Cat5 = 10/100 Mbps (10/100MB)

Cat5E = 1,000 Mbps (1GB)

Cat6 = 10,000 Mbps (10GB)

Cat6a = 10,000 Mbps (10GB)

u/Kichigai · 5 pointsr/HomeNetworking

This is the correct answer. Not only will it be the highest performing option and the most reliable option, but it'll also be the cheapest option. Monoprice will sell you one for ~$13, Amazon Prime for $13, 100ft each.

u/drnick5 · 5 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Cat 6 is perfectly fine, as it can support up to 10Gb, so its pretty future proofed as 1Gb is still the standard. We won't see 10Gb becoming the norm for a while.

As far as cable, I usually get it from Monoprice, or sometimes from amazon. I just bought a 1000ft spool of Cat6 for like $65

If you are putting drops in each room, its probably best to put in wall plates, and punch down the cable to a jack. You'll need a Punchdown Tool for this.

I'd highly recommend running all the cables to a patch panel. Ideally have them run to the same location as your modem and other networking equipment. You'd use the same punch down tool here as well.

If you need to terminate any cables to a normal Ethernet connector, it isn't difficult, but it is a bit tedious. The first one you do will take you a bit to do, but once you get the hang of it, each one will become a little quicker. you can watch a youtube video on how to do it.
You'll need a Crimping tool to crimp the ends on.

u/TheGentlemanLoser · 4 pointsr/Acadiana
u/[deleted] · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

That isn't for ethernet. It's for Telephone. That's why it says "4X10 Phone 110 Terminal". Even if they wired it with CAT5e (which many do because it's easier to use CAT5e for both then also carry around CAT3) it would only work as a hub, and not a switch. You would need something more like this

u/LOStheNERD · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Most likely the previous owner was trying to do something with phone lines, but he should have just used the phone distribution device already in the box.
Your plan will work just fine, but I would recommend that you terminate the cables onto a patch panel (such as this one ). Using a patch panel would be a better long term solution, the wear and tear will be on the short patch cords you use to connect to the switch, instead of on the in-wall cables.

u/soawesomejohn · 4 pointsr/homelab

This is kind of like when I first started out, I was rather excited about ez-rj45, but I soon learned they're not worth it.

The ends are expensive. You need the more expensive crimps. If you really want to spend money to save time, just buy patch cables. The only times I make my own ends anymore is if I'm making a custom connector (usually for ham radio) or if I need to run the cable through a small hole.

u/Hiimauseriswear · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

For what it worth, I just started buying these:

More expensive, but works every time

u/frickensweet · 4 pointsr/networking

You would be better off making your own. I've found that a lot of the sets are cheap.

Here's my take on it.

1.Cable tester:

Simple cat5 tester, cheap and works decently.

2. Cable stripper:

Here I've given two options, one is a spinning stripper made for things like taking the jacket off cat5, the second is a more of an electrical stripper for a bunch of gauges of wire with cutters at the back side. If your comfortable with it you can use the cutters to strip just about anything.



3.punchdown tool :
If your in a spot where you get to do punchdowns it's nice to have, they are cheap and work well,

4. Cat 5 ends:
Always keep plenty of these, a bag of them is cheap and you will be glad you have them.

5: crimper:

Never underestimate a good crimper. I have had no luck with the cutting portion of them but that's why I have other tools.

6. #2 philps head.
I like ratcheting screw drivers with multiple heads but this is easily the most used screwdriver in my set.

The flat head out of this set is also nice, depending on your bag keep them all handy.

Everything beyond this point is optional or situational.

8. Power supply tester: if you do any sort of computer repair these are very handy to hold on to.

9. Tweaker: good for laptop repair or if you deal with any sort of building controllers/ low voltage electrical.

I also have a similar sized Philips head screw driver but I use it much less frequently.

10. Electrical tape: some people say it's for those who mess up doing electrical, I call it insurance.

11. Linemans: I use mine to crimp chicklets mostly but they come in handy a lot. I couldn't find the exact ones I use b

12: a bag:
Personally, I use an old back pack. I find its a lot easier to carry that along with a box of cable. This is entirely preference.

u/VA_Network_Nerd · 4 pointsr/Cisco

>I'm not a specialist or programmer -- just a regular guy with some understanding of computers who's trying to help out the family office over the phone with a provider.

Warning: That Cisco 1921 is NOT a Linksys or Netgear router with a slick GUI that you can just keep clicking at until you get it to work.

If you were unable to figure out what a Cisco console cable is on your own, you're just not likely to figure out how to configure a device that complicated.

I encourage you to engage a small business consultant or a MSP or something.

> We need a console cable. What is a console cable?

You actually need two things:


    > We need a cable running from the GE 0/1 port to the firewall


    > Lastly, I was told to configure the IP addresses on the firewall.

    Not enough information provided.
u/Kalranya · 4 pointsr/Overwatch

>blizz pls fix

Right, because it's their job to fix your shitty wifi.

Here's your real solution.

u/AMoreExcitingName · 3 pointsr/electricians

It's not quite as bad as /u/Baneken says, once you get the hang of it.

But don't do that anyway. As others have said, you should have all the wires terminated to a single point, a wiring closet if you will. That termination should be to patch panel, like one of these, there are different sizes.

At the wall, you'd have a single gang knockout ring (or a normal electrical single gang box, but the hollow low voltage ones are fine):

Then a bunch of keystone jacks and a wall plate.

To go from the wall or from that patch panel to your equipment, you'd then just buy a pre-made (stranded) network cable.

There are some different rj45 jacks, which are designed to make the job a lot easier, but between the tools and the connectors being $2 each, it's not worth it. Those links are just for reference, so you can see what I'm talking about.

If your guy is just throwing rj45 jacks and letting the cables dangle like that out of a hole in the wall, then he has no idea what he's doing.

u/goldenfishes · 3 pointsr/SBU

I couldn't find any online either so what I ended up doing was buying a normal ethernet (RJ45-RJ45) coupler (like this one) and the short version of the wire from the marketplace. Then I used a long RJ45-RJ45 Ethernet cable I already had for the length and the marketplace cable to convert it to RJ45.

u/wolffstarr · 3 pointsr/homelab

He means an RJ-45 coupler, I would assume. Sounds like it's a pair of pre-formed cables.

OP, if they're pre-formed cables, then you should stick with the coupler. The only real question at that point is can you get the premade cable's connectors through whatever hole you have going from outside to in, and then can you seal it afterwards to keep critters out. (You might be shocked at how small an opening a mouse can get through.)

u/0xbit64 · 3 pointsr/homelab

>RJ-45 coupler

I actually meant one of these

I'm not using pre-formed cables, I'll be crimping the end myself, but for joining the two cables I was evaluating options. Right now I see options:

- using tape

- these

- RJ-45 coupler + 2 rj45 connectors

- using a keystone jack + rj45 connector


Thanks for the pointers!

u/CanuckFire · 3 pointsr/homelab

If you want something quick and easy, spend a bit more money and get these. Ive used versions of them before and they are super convenient.
(If your cabling comes into the box from the top, just install the plates upside-down so the cables dont bend in the box).

u/spdave · 3 pointsr/cablefail

That's why we use these.

u/douchermann · 3 pointsr/homedefense

If you're dead-set on terminating with male ends instead of punching them down, try this instead:

More pricey, you need their special tool but it'll be the last one you'll buy.

Otherwise, do what everyone else said. Punchdown tool is like 10-15 online for a decent one. Jacks are cheap.

u/SScorpio · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

There are also some where the wire goes straight through.

Personally, I'd go with a patch panel, and pre-terminated patch cables. You're able to do one wire at a time and it's a more permanent solution.

u/Moimoi328 · 3 pointsr/Quakecon

ITT: people pissed off about spending $10 for a 50 ft ethernet cable after spending $500-1,000 to go to QuakeCon including hotel rooms.

u/Bigfoot721 · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

You don't need anything fancy. If you want to terminate the cable yourself (Better for custom length runs) just standard CAT6 UTP is good here is a link to 250' of cable. Here is a pre-made 50' CAT6 cable, though if you're running a cable through the ceiling it would be alot safer to make your own cable. The only reason to get shielded twisted pairs (STP) is if you're going to be running a lot of cables next to each other or running cables in a place with lots of interference, above fluorescent lights for example. Be careful you don't underestimate the distance, you'll really regret it when you come up 5' short.

u/IAintThatGuy · 3 pointsr/Quakecon

50 ft cable is like 9$ on amazon. Bring a zip tie (or if you're fancy a velcro cable tie) and you're good, the bulk of your cable is rolled up next to your computer.

u/aknalid · 3 pointsr/Entrepreneur

You just need about 5g of magic mushrooms, an ethernet cable and a lot of chutzpah.

u/nicking44 · 3 pointsr/techsupport

if you need to get a Ethernet cable I would go with at least a Cat5e (since you wont be using anything that will require more then that can support). They're pretty inexpensive now, you can get a 25ft for ~$8
Amazon 25ft cat5e

u/emalk4y · 3 pointsr/homelab

Those are usually APC, Dell, HP, Cisco, etc - commercial grade stuff. StarTech and a few others make consumer and commercial grade products, so generally open racks, 25U, adjustable, rather than only bulletproof sturdy cage/door racks.

Here's the StarTech 25U one I have (I picked it up used off Kijiji though, $80)

Here's a similar one from Tripp-Lite, also 25U open. Don't usually see these in datacenters, because those are all 42U/45U, enclosed.

That being said, the StarTech rack is excellent, as it's adjustable depth, has casters, and a lower profile than something with front/back door + side panels. Depends on budget + needs. I'm in a condo, so having a 42U+ closed rack would be way overkill (and a pain to even get into the elevator...)

u/Shorshack · 3 pointsr/homedefense

Not knowing the specific parts, I would say things look pretty marked up (fairly normal I suspect).
Cat5e is marked $50 but no true quantity (linear feet).
Amazon has 1,000 feet for $50 - I'd be shocked if you couldn't do your whole house with that -

I think you're really paying for convenience here.
If you know the parts they're putting in you could price them.
Those cameras sound damn expensive... but I'm fairly novice at ip camera prices (but 1k for 4 cameras seems insane) - could totally be wrong though.

The fact that the cat5e cable is so marked up makes me think the other items are likely marked up accordingly.

u/Howdanrocks · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

This is cheaper but its CCA (copper clad aluminum), and almost certainly so are those cables you bought. If you want to make long cable runs use pure copper.

u/upsidedownpancake · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Amazon Link

200 feet for $16

u/ryani · 3 pointsr/buildmeapc

Most ethernet networks have range of 100m without requiring a repeater or switch. That's a LONG WAY and almost certainly further than the location of your hub from your room.

Here is a really long ethernet cable for $30. I'd recommend actually measuring the distance and planning it with your parents.

In my house I ran cables from the attic down into the walls by the hub and in each room. You can either have the cables stick right out of the wall, or if you want to be nicer about it, cut open the cable and wire them into a wall plate, patching them into your PC with a short cable. Here is a howto video. In the video he has a cable TV jack right next to it, and if you have something like that you don't even need to cut a new hole in the wall; you can just use a dual plate like this one.

u/nomnommish · 3 pointsr/answers

First things first - the cable modem and the wifi router are two completely separate things. In your specific case, the two things are integrated in one device - but I highly recommend not doing so.

Comcast charges a ridiculous amount of money for the "modem rental". Are you renting your modem/router from Comcast? If so, I highly recommend buying your own cable modem and wifi router. You will recoup the cost in just a few months from the rental savings. I'm saying this from personal experience - after spending 3 times the cost of the modem for just the rental fees.

The cable modem is a device which connects to your Comcast cable and lets you connect your other home devices to the modem. Even the cheapest most basic DOCSIS3 modem will support speeds that far surpass the actual internet speed you will buy from Comcast - and these are super reliable devices - so just buy the cheapest.

For example, this Arris refurbished model is available for $30. Non refurbished is $50 - although refurbished is honestly just fine. Consider that I was paying 8 bucks a month for the modem rental while I could have bought my modem outright for 30 bucks.

Now for the wifi router. This is mostly the real reason why people complain of poor internet speeds. And often this is because of poor wifi coverage to begin with - i.e. the wifi signal is simply not strong enough in all your rooms. As someone else said, the best thing you can do is to place your wifi router high up and in a central location that has the best "line of sight" to most rooms. Typically a central passageway, mounted high up on the wall. You would connect to your cable modem with an ethernet cable, by the way.

In my case, upgrading to a better more powerful wifi router with 4 antennas (from 2) made a huge difference. From my experience, I can recommend this Asus model which has 4 antennas and costs $67. There are many other models you can research and buy. It has run non-stop for over a year without requiring a reboot or without any of the flakiness I had with my other router that would randomly shut down or reboot itself. Wirecutter recommends TPLink Archer C7 which also costs $70 and they say it has really good coverage. Avoid the more expensive "802.11 AC" routers. This AC technology is great but is honestly overkill for your needs, just as you don't need to buy some expensive cable modem.

By the way, you can also download an app on your phone that will tell you how good your wifi coverage is in different parts of your house or establishment. Just search for "wifi coverage" or "wifi analyzer" in your app store. As someone also said, there are some advanced tweaks you can do. See this article, if you are so inclined.

Lastly, besides your wifi signal coverage and strength and quality of wifi router, your internet connection itself needs to be reasonably fast to support multiple users. Nowadays, everyone is streaming videos and such on their smartphones so everyone "needs" high bandwidth or fast internet. And all these multiple videos streaming quickly eat up your internet connection's bandwidth. What is interesting is that there isn't that much of a price difference between the different Comcast options. Or to put it another way, there is no $40 or $50 option at all. 25mbps is quite low to be honest - at least when multiple people hammering away at your internet. It is not horrible or anything - in fact it is perfectly decent for average home use - it is just not blazingly fast. There is a $10 difference between 25mbps and 100mbps, and a $3 jump to 200mbps. So if you don't mind the extra $13, you are in serious blazing fast territory. Consider that Netflix takes about 3-10mbps, so you can imagine that 200mbps will give you a lot of room and speed even with multiple users logged in and streaming high quality video. Else, you can start with 25mbps after you make all the other improvements to your setup, see how it goes. Then you can easily upgrade to 200mbps if needed.

u/spyvision · 3 pointsr/IndianGaming

I’m not 100% sure about this but I meant this - amazonbasics Ethernet cable

u/z8xbc4x3 · 3 pointsr/LinuxActionShow

I just got done building a new Kodi box and I have to tell you its the only thing I've ever built that's normie approved. And by that I mean my wife, kids, and a hoard of cousins.

I used a RPi 3 + LibreELEC and hats off to the LibreELEC team because the thing reboots in 17 seconds and I haven't had a single skip or buffer problem on 1080p video.

Part | Price | Link
Raspberry Pi 3 | $41 |
Power Adapter | $10 |
SD Card | $10 |
Case | $20 |
Rii i8+ 2.4GHz Mini Wireless Keyboard | $22 |
HDMI Cable | $06 |
Ethernet Cable | $05 |
OS | $00 |
Total | $114 |

I think one of these should be on every TV.

u/jroman75 · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Cat 6 Ethernet Cable 50 ft White - Flat Internet Network Lan patch cords - Solid Cat6 High Speed Computer wire With clips& Snagless Rj45 Connectors for Router, modem - faster than Cat5e/Cat5 - 50 feet

Cat 6 50ft $10 Amazon
Cat 6 14ft $20 BestBuy

Just so you can see how much of a rip off it is

u/biking4jesus · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement
u/psimwork · 3 pointsr/buildapc

If you have an ethernet tester, I'd check it on both ends. I'd bet that there's a connection in one of your wires somewhere.

u/cosmos7 · 3 pointsr/homelab

You need to get yourself a basic tester so you can figure out where you're going wrong.

u/bryan7675 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

As u/manarius5 point out the cat-5 cable is setup as phone; and you will need to change it over to network.

Best option is to get a patch panel, a punch down tool, jacks, 2x WAP; maybe this one. You might or might not need a switch, you might also want to consider going with POE to power the WAP. You would also want to get some cat-5 jumpers.

Please make sure your parents are not using POTS( plain old telephone); if they are, you can still do this, but would need to proceed with caution. Install new wall jacks, install new punch down block down stairs; when punching down, follow the color coding for A or B, dosn't matter which, just keep it the same on both sides. Move Comcast modem next to the location in your pictures. Setup the WAPs on either side of your house, plug the Roku in hard wire. This setup would use 3 ports on the Comcast modem/router, so no switch needed.

If your parents are still using the phone, only move the jacks to network that you are going to use.

A more advance solution would be to go with a wall mounted rack, Ubiquiti equipment for router, switching and WAPS, buy a cable modem and return the Comcast unit.

u/koentje987 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

then it is for phone. You may get a patchpanel, remove the wiring from the phone panel, and use a punch tool to connect it to the ethernet patch panel. You would need to run power to that location and connect each patch panel port to the switch/router that you locate there.

Note: this only works if all 8 wires were connected in the wall sockets. If there are only 2 of the 8 connected, redo them.

Punch tool: )

Patch panel: e.g.

I did the same in my apartment last weekend. There was already a patch panel for ethernet, but all wiring was connected to the phone panel.

u/squarepadpusher · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Panel panel is great recommendation

Just need a 110 punch down.

u/Drambuie · 2 pointsr/DIY

For permanent installs, I recommend using a patch panel. Cat5 ends eventually go bad, and you never want to rerun a cable. Other than that, it looks great.

u/Jgsatx · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

this ^

just to add to his comments. that enclosure panel looks like it's one of those "pre drilled" panels that has accompanying add-ons such as teleco, network, video modules that you can add on to. while i'm not a big fan of using those types of network components, you might look up the brand of the enclosure and see what's available for it.

or you can just get something like this:

...and screw it down with self tapping screws and just use that punch down tool you linked with the 110 blade. (practice first on a lower port if it's your first time using one of those... but they're fairly easy to use.... just keep it straight when punching down). same thing when punching down the Ethernet keystones in each room.

beginner's tip when punching down on those blocks: screw down the white bracket where you want it (make sure all cables reach first!). Then snap the punch panel backwards to give you a clear view of the back of each port. makes it easier to punch. then when you're done, un-snap it and snap it back the correct way. again... make sure cables all reach before screwing it down. if you have extra cable, i say punch it down with the extra then when you're done punching, push the excess cable back into the wall. depending on the height of the bracket, it's best to have a step ladder to get you chest level or so to the bracket... makes punching straight easier.

hope this helps.

u/chubbysumo · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

using cat5 for phone is just wasteful. a 1 pair or 2 pair lv wire would cost significantly less in construction. That phone install looks like it was done by a lazy wiring contractor who did not even want to terminate anything properly. Contact the landlord before doing it, and it might serve you better in the long run to run all those cables in the closet to a patch panel instead of just adding ends to them, that way you don't have to move them as much, and don't risk ripping the ends off.

u/JustNilt · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Each connection, I presume it's wired up as Ethernet drops, should go to a central location where they terminate into a patch panel of some sort. You can use patch cables (short Ethernet cables) to connect the proper location on the patch panel to a switch. The switch is then connected to one LAN port on your router. Some folks would only need the router, if they have enough LAN ports on that, but f you have all your rooms wired up I presume that's more than 4.

A patch panel looks something like this, though there are some that look a little different. You should find it near your breaker box, possibly behind a metal panel that can be pulled off with a few screws.

u/Buelldozer · 2 pointsr/talesfromtechsupport

Sigh, your IT guy will hate me but I'm going to spare you some trouble.

u/bmcgahan · 2 pointsr/networking

Just plug an RJ45 coupler into the other end and then you can plug your toner into it.

u/BickNlinko · 2 pointsr/computertechs

Here are some links for those of you that do need to make cables and have the terrible misfortune of not knowing about EZ-RJ45 ends. And here are the crimpers that go with those awesome ends. There are a more expensive set of ratcheted crimpers, but I've never used them. This combo of crimpers and ends makes perfect cables every time.

u/Fhajad · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I'd much rather use EZ connectors. Seems way easier than both types. I've used these off and on for 5 years, never had a bad crimp. I get that OP was going budget, but if you can spring for better connectors it's so worth it.

u/YourPartTimeLover · 2 pointsr/Ubiquiti

Thank you! Wish I could take you up on that offer but in Texas. My current home I bought a spool and did all that myself. I did this deal...

Platinum Tools 100010C EZ-RJ45 Cat 6+ Connectors, Clamshell, 50-Pieces

So it crimps and clips the wires all in one. It just took forever and I felt like my RJ45s were kind of oversized and some didn’t fit in the switch right. Eventually I got the hang but that was 6 years ago so I was thinking maybe take the easy way out this time, ha.

Also in the networking closet I want to make it look pretty but out in the house I’m going to run cables to, AC-PROs, IW-PROs, or cameras. And all of those take RJ45 for input I think.

Maybe I just need to suck it up and terminate the bulk wire or hire someone just to come do just that part who is good at it.

u/toomanytoons · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Practice, practice, practice. Or more fool proof gear like these connectors and this crimper.

u/CVCPB · 2 pointsr/sysadmin

These and this crimper.

I will never go back to regular tips. EZRJ-45 all the way. It says Clamshell but they are not, they're single piece tips.

u/Bored_Ultimatum · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Is this for structured wiring? If so, I would use a patch panel with punch down connections and a punch down tool.

If that option does not work for you for some reason, I would ask a friend who is a networking geek to help me out. This is something I would gladly do for a friend.

But if you are determined to do this on your own, a pass-through connector and a magnifying glass might get you there:

u/helrazr · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

These Rj45 connectors allow the cable to pass through the end, which u then crimp and cut automatically with a crimp specific tool. However they seem to be so so on quality, but it's a good concept.

u/tyler212 · 2 pointsr/army

So being commo I know some good gifts for us nerds. I know you are going to spend some time making cables, so check this shit out RJ-45's that let you pull the wires though the RJ45. Well now that you got that, might as well buy the crimper with a cutting edge designed for those RJ-45's. I keep the Crimpers in a old PRC-127 radio pouch for easy attachment to my gear if needed too.

If you wanna feel like a cool guy with a gerber, but also need to run some cables? Well we got the Gerber Cable Dawg. Great thing about this thing is it has MAN's for you to get that supply guy who you have been nice too order them and comes with a MOLLE pouch to attach to your gear.

  • UCP: 5110-01-598-2253
  • Coyote Brown: 5110-01-598-2254
  • MultiCam: 5110-01-598-2248
u/randiesel · 2 pointsr/triangle

Basically, he's saying to buy some ethernet testers ( ) and plug one end into the wall in one room, and go around the house testing all the other outlets to see where that outlet is connected. If you're never able to get a connection from one port to another, you likely have a cable problem and would need to have it re-run. Otherwise, you may have great cabling but just need to know how it's laid out.

As far as the coax, it appears to be possible, based on a quick google search, but looks like it might be a bit of work.

u/javi404 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I would invest in one of these:

It is all you need to make sure your wired correctly. If it tests fine with this tester, 99.99 percent of the time you will be fine with 1Gb links. Still to early for 10Gb so I wouldn't worry about that yet. Cat6 should be fine for future proofing at this point since its too early for home 10Gb gear to know what will be available.

u/iammartyr · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Could you post some pictures of this control panel?

Would you be willing to buy networking tools? Something like this is super-cheap and would be able to help you figure out what cables go where.

Network Tester

u/mynametobespaghetti · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I'd recommend picking up one of the super basic types (like this ) they are invaluable for peace of mind testing.

u/Jimmizilla · 2 pointsr/hometheater

You might also want to test each cable. If they're in the walls and you can't trace each cable individually and you don't know what goes to where from the basement, a tester might be worth getting

u/NightFury_CS · 2 pointsr/homelab

That's actually really cool. Unfortunately I only have one like this, although mine does BNC as well.

u/polywhoreism · 2 pointsr/DIY

Just here to agree and suggest this bad boy:

It looks and has the build quality of a piece of shit, but has tested tons of cables for me, may help you moving forward. Also hard to go wrong for the price.

u/in00tj · 2 pointsr/computertechs

most cable testers will test each wire, lighting up if its good.

you will notice they are labeled 1-8

plug one side in the tester and the other into the remote

u/Compupaq · 2 pointsr/techsupport

I recently bought a crimper and tester. They're kinda on the cheap end of tools, but they work well (at least the crimper does, I only used the tester once).

u/glucoseboy · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

cable testers are great for checking crimps (it's so easy to make a mistake) Amazon has a ton of cheap testers that work well.

I used this one.

u/Sunfried · 2 pointsr/computertechs

Fluke gear is nice, but it's pricy.

I've got much lower usage than you, so I use this toner on a ~monthly basis, along with this network cable checker.

u/AlanRosenthal · 2 pointsr/networking

I bought this to test the cables. Is this sufficient? What other tests should I do?

u/tycaptobvious · 2 pointsr/techsupport

What you are looking for can easily be found by searching Amazon for "tone probe" .

Even a cheap two piece cable tester would do the trick in a pinch.

u/genxer · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Likely not -- now granted I have a new whiz band 5GHZ router -- but I get 300+ meg over wireless. Even old old 802.11g maxes out at 54 meg. Although you'd seldom see it. My advise is to use a wired connection and see what kind of difference it makes. Pings (latency) should be lower. I just wouldnt expect a huge upward spike in raw speed. Even a 100 ft cord is cheap...

u/Apallon · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Well, first things first, find a way to hardwire into your router.

I was on Wifi for the longest time simply because our router is all the way across the house. But the lag eventually drove me insane so I bought a 100ft ethernet cable to run all the way across the house. Lol Works like a charm!

I believe this is the exact one I bought.

u/baobrain · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

If you don't mind possible not-so-prettiness you could buy 50ft of cat5e cable for around $9..

If you have a gigabit connection you might want to go with cat6 or cat7, which are both more expensive.

u/thefucksalami · 2 pointsr/xbox360

Since you've said a PowerLine is not in your budget, I made this list of what I think are the best, most affordable ethernet cables that suit your needs. They're all on Amazon, available in white, 45-50 ft long, top rated, and will ship in 2 days with Prime.

I'm on mobile, so I apologize if these links do not work.

[Here] ( is a 45 ft ethernet cable, low profile (1.2 mm thick) - $11.95

[Here] ( is a 50 ft Amazon brand ethernet cable - $6.99

[Here] ( is a generic 50 ft ethernet cable - $5.60 (43% off)

Edit - formatting.

u/larrylarrington03 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

whats your budget? a 50 ft ethernet cable is the cheapest, but if you don't want the cable running on the floor you can use MOCA which is more expensive

u/wigglethebutt · 2 pointsr/splatoon

I caved and bought an ethernet cable and LAN adaptor for the Spongebob v Patrick Splatfest. Best $28.47 I've ever spent! I get additional value from it since I love playing MK8 online.

u/RedditUzernamez2 · 2 pointsr/NoStupidQuestions

Most commonly a CAT5 cable. It's used to get internet from a wall Jack or router. Here's a link for our base and also diagram of it .

u/DZCreeper · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Have you actually identified the source of lag? Not enough upload bandwidth? Old modem? Shitty wireless coverage? Bad wireless adapter?

A new router isn't going to magically fix the situation if the problem lies elsewhere. I will give you some recommendations for a whole setup replacement, just don't buy without doing some basic research to make sure it will solve your dad's problem. - Capable of 1gb/s line rate. - Get 2-3 of those for maximum coverage, space them apart evenly. - Fastest cable modem on the market currently. - Get whatever lengths you need, make sure it is at least Cat5e. 100 feet Cat6 for $13 is a great price, get a couple of those if you aren't sure.

Head over to /r/homenetworking if you have any questions or would just like someone else to look over my choices.

u/Wazanator_ · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Ideally you want ethernet cable ($13 for 100ft) but if that's not possible you probably want to look into a range extender (Netgear and TP-Link have some popular ones that just plug into a walloutlet). If you are going to use the range extender I would then at least try to have a wired connection to that.

u/SpecialityToS · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Not really, I use a 50-foot ethernet cable. A wifi-adapter is like $35 or so and it's only decently reliable. This one here seems to have really nice reviews and it's less than $13 with prime.

u/XDVI · 2 pointsr/StreetFighter

Get one.

13 bux

Speed doesn't matter, you are going to have more hiccups on wifi than on ethernet and hiccups are exactly what you don't want because they make matches feel super laggy and shitty.

u/soggybiscuit93 · 2 pointsr/computers

Just buy a roll of this and run it to the room you would like to use it in.

To make it pretty, I would run the 100ft cable to the back of this

Get two more smaller Ethernet cables, run one from the outlet into this switch (any port on it) if you want more ports in the other room, and then the other short cable from the switch to your PC.

This would be the best, most professional way of getting Ethernet into your room. It'll be much more stable and provide better performance than a WiFi dongle.

u/khaelian · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Like... A network cable.

u/i_to_i · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I bought a couple of these

Then just string em up or lay em on the floor and kinda tack em to the walls using small hooks or small nails after bending them a bit to hold the wire.

u/FinancialAdvicePleas · 2 pointsr/homelab

As far as racks go, you can get a standard 45U rack pretty cheap off of ebay because companies surplus their old ones. I've looked for months for a cheap small one (16-25U) and haven't found one under $200 or so. As far as buying new, this is the best deal I've found (for a 4-post rack, which you want for servers as they get heavy and can tip with 2-posts):

u/Bandalo · 2 pointsr/MLPLounge
u/mistakenotmy · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Can you hear or see the main room from the lobby? An internet streaming solution is going to have a good amount of lag. So if you can easily move between rooms (or hear one room from another) it will be disorienting. Much better to run direct if you can.

For the venue across the street, do youtube/ustream/whatever.

>We don't have a 1000s of dollars budget but want it to look nice.

The more money you can put in, the better it will look. Sure you can do a webcam, but a webcam has a small lens and sensor. If you can afford a bump up to even a cheap handycam and capture device, things will look better. Plus you get flexibility in zoom with a real camera.

If I had even a small amount of funds this is what I would do:

  • Sony Handcam $200 (If you know someone with a DSLR that can do video, even better)

  • Cheap tripod: $30

  • HDMI audio insert: $50

  • HDMI splitter: $30

  • HDBaseT $90 (you can do HDMI over IP but if you are in a hotel/conference center you may have issues with their network. Running it direct makes more sense)

  • Elgato HD60: $160 (PC capture)

  • 4 HDMI cables $5/each

  • 200' cat6: $20

    Total= $600


    I would highly recommend getting audio from the mixer. Just micing the room is a good way to make it hard to hear on the other end. Hence the audio embedder to get the audio into the HDMI out of the camera.

    If you have an extra person to run the camera and get a better shot than just a wide view of the room, that is also a big help.

    If you have an extra person, I would put the slides from ppt on the streaming computer as well. Then use OBS (Open Broadcast Studio, free) to display the slides and video to the far site.

u/IcyKettle · 2 pointsr/sonos

I hear you, but wireless/mesh networks are tricky and often moving targets. Environments can change overnight without warning. By plugging a Boost into a wireless node, you're essentially building a mesh network on the back of another mesh network. That's a complex and brittle setup.

I'm not suggesting you run a permanent 200ft hardwire thru your house. But you can get cat6 of that length for $18. Small price to pay for confirmation that it's your eero node that's failing you. At least then you'll know whether you need to reassess your setup.


u/Flu17 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

You shouldn't be spending more than $30 total. ~$10-12 for the used N300 and ~$15 for 200 feet of cat5e cable. If you need 250 ft, it shouldn't cost more than $30.

The N300 will perform we'll if it's in the next room over or the same room as you, or even a few rooms over. I used it in my 2 story house in AP mode, and I got a good signal from it in the basement to my room on the second floor.

Yes, spending more on a router/AP will yield a better signal, generally speaking, but the N300 should perform well for your needs. If you really feel you should spend more, don't go over $50. It's unnecessary considering you will be close to the router/AP.

u/NotBillNyeScienceGuy · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

[RJ45 Jacks] ( - These would go on the ends of a phone wire that runs from router - to - pc.

[Patch Cable] ( - This would run from the ethernet jacks you just installed to the router. Another would run from the jack to your pc (on the other end of the wire that was a previous phone wire.)

You'd also need a punchdown tool to install the jack.

u/paulgraz · 2 pointsr/cableadvice

If you dont want a full blown floor standing rack, there are other options that would neaten this up.

You could wall mount a couple patch panels right next to that hole, like this:

Or maybe a small wall mounted rack, just for your network (switch and patch panel), kinda like this:

u/l0ckd0wn · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Well it depends on what you are getting, but I don't think that is too bad of a price if you are getting a decent size patch panel and the labor of punching everything down and mounting the wall plate. Patch panels are always going to be a better option than having a bunch of random cables that are individually terminated haphazardly run to one area. The main advantages are that all the cable runs (to each wallplate) have their own individual port on the panel and you can label that panel to know where the cable goes to if a problem may arise, you never touch the actual cable in the wall, you only use a patch cable to go from the patch panel to a switch so there is little to no chance of physical damage if for some reason you have to troubleshoot the connections and it's just overall much better aesthetically and logically speaking. The one thing to remember when using a patch panel at home is that you are going to need a patch cable for every port used on the patch panel to go to your main switch and that means you may need a larger switch than you may current have or that your home/consumer Wifi Router may have, so you should plan according to what you anticipate you will need in the future (I generally recommend buying 1.5-2x the # of ports you need right now to allow for future expansion, but this depends on the household, users, tech savviness and your overall needs).

Keep in mind that there is probably some significant markup on what he is charging you for the panel but at the same time that's expected if you do not provide the hardware. Amazon has lots of patch panels for comparison in all sizes. Personally I would plan for 2 runs / room to the same wall jack for redundancy, but it's generally overkill for most people's homes.

I do have to say that the OCD in me is calmed when I see great networking jobs like this (the white devices are the switches, the black panels with the RJ45 ports are the patch panels):

u/jwBTC · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Yeah ends are generally ends - cheap or expensive you can still f- it up. If you pay attention to your crimps, you should be fine even with the cheapo ends. Stranded vs solid matters more.

But if its all in-wall wiring, what OP wants is a PATCH PANEL and Keystone JACKS, no RJ-45 ends/crimps at all!

One set of options:

u/hyperactivedog · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

What you get with a $300 router:
A router, a switch, and a 4x4 wireless access point.

By law the 4x4 access point has limited power output. It won't have significantly better range than a cheaper 2x2 access point.
A 4x4 device will perform WAY better with 4x4 devices (I don't own any and you probably don't) and 3x3 devices (Only common one I know if is the macbook pro). 2x2 devices (95% of laptops, high end phones) and 1x1 devices (basically most phones and tablets) perform the same on a 4x4 access point as a 2x2 access point.

What most people on here suggest, if you have a bit of technical know-how

Edge Router X
A Cheap switch
0-2 Ubiquiti AC Lite 2x2 Wireless Access Points and/or 0-2 Ubiquiti AC Pro 3x3 Wireless Access points.

Hard wire the access points with ethernet cable. Place them in strategic locations.

At the end of the day, get 1 cable near the other end of the house

If you're industrious, you might be able to route something like this in a creative manner where it doesn't look half bad. Making cables "invisible" is almost as good as routing them through a wall or attic.

u/rubermnkey · 2 pointsr/buildapc

you have 2 pcie x1 slots under your pcie x16 that your gpu is plugged in, it should fit fine. they are the short black little brackets. if you want to do bluetooth though you might have to give up one of your usb slots though

edit: but you can get a shitload of ethernet cable for cheaper and have a faster connection

u/Leggo0 · 2 pointsr/AskBattlestations

Just buy something like this . It even comes with little holders to attach it to the wall to route it. Should blend in fairly well.

u/big_corey · 2 pointsr/buildapc

To run ethernet cables throughout my home without wiring through the walls, I used Command Decorating Clips to attach different length Jadaol Cat6 white, flat ethernet cables (e.g., this 100 feet model) to the walls and ceilings. I separated each clip by about 2 feet. Small, simple (unmanaged) gigabit ethernet switches (I have a few of this model, which is about the size of a human hand) provide access points throughout the network while connecting each cable. Guests only notice the entire setup when I specifically mention it to them.

u/ItsAtlxs · 2 pointsr/GlobalOffensive

Maybe you can get a long one like this?

u/Kratomlol · 2 pointsr/swtor

This is just my experience but it's also affected a lot of windows 10 users. Windows 10 seems to have a problem with WIFI on some systems. Google Windows 10 Wifi problems. I was never able to find a solution. I even bought a really expensive wifi card and it didn't fix the issue. All my other devices work fine on the wifi and even my windows 7 and 8 machines, as well as consoles and phones. Once I plugged into ethernet I never had the issue again.

I had to purchase a 50 foot cable off amazon due to the distance I wanted my computer to be

So if all else fails that should fix your issue.

u/Tzaektlacatl · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Are you sure that the "cable" connexions are live?

I do not believe there is a modern set up that uses coaxial where ethernet is the medium standard for LAN, unless what you need is a modem/router combo, which may or may not work depending on the service.

You should better be looking at running a (probably flat) ethernet cord instead. Maximum should be 50' or 100 meters, from the router upstairs.

Cat 6 Ethernet Cable 50 ft White - Flat Internet Network Lan patch cords - Solid Cat6 High Speed Computer wire With clips& Snagless Rj45 Connectors for Router, modem - faster than Cat5e/Cat5 - 50 feet

It's conveniently flat and is very low profile to run in corners or between door frames, if you get that, I'd recommend taping it or use adhesive on every other 2 meters.

u/SteadyMercury1 · 2 pointsr/xboxone

When you download something from the internet it comes to you from external to your home. Across your ISPs network from wherever it originated from. That's what your download speed effects. When you upload something it goes in reverse across your ISPs network and uses your upload speed. This is called a WAN or wide area network. And that is what you pay for access to.

Your ISP's network is how data is delivered to and from your home. It doesn't have anything to do with how data moves around inside your home. When you stream your Xbox to a PC the data is originating on your Xbox, which is in your home, and being transferred to your PC which is also in your home. That's why your upload and download speeds don't matter for streaming your Xbox to your PC. That data never actually leaves your home and travels on your ISPs network. It travels around your home on what is called a LAN or local area network.

The quality of your LAN determines how well you can stream from your PC to your Xbox and the quality of your WAN determines how well you can stream to YouTube. Some of the gear, like your router or gateway is used by both networks, some isn't. So if, for example, you ran a CAT5e from your PC to your modem and another CAT5e cable to your Xbox from your modem you would be able to transfer data between those two sources at 1000 Mbps (assuming your router isn't total trash) even though you have a much slower speed from your ISP. It doesn't impact potential data caps either since you aren't using your ISP to transfer that data.

The only thing that would reduce your upload speed is if your network gear couldn't handle the amount of data being transferred around your LAN between your PC and Xbox and through the WAN between your PC and Youtube. That is a possibility (though fairly remote) most decent routers are capable of handing tons of data.

Wifi is a problem because the signal can fluctuate pretty wildly. Even sitting right beside my wireless router I can watch the quality of streaming my Xbox to my PC fluctuate pretty dramatically. My guess is you are like most homes with minimal wired connections if any. If you want, you can comment or message me your router model and I can see if it's trash or not.

Here is an example of the ethernet cable you would need for your LAN chances are to wire your PC and Xbox to your router. You'd need two pieces and likely less then fifty foot lengths. it would probably cost you less then $30 to be able to stream high/ultra quality to your PC from your Xbox with few or no quality drops. You will have some input lag though, that is unavoidable.

Then you'd use something like OBS to capture your PC display and broadcast to Youtube. It's not conventional, but it does technically work. You'd likely want to stream at 720p probably 30fps because it's better to stream at a lower quality overall then it is to try and stream right at the edge of what your connection can handle. When you stream at the max you can theoretically handle you get drops in speed across your ISP's network and it can cause your stream to suddenly drop quality. It might blur up badly for a period of time, and some services (like twitch) will automatically cut your stream off if quality is a serious issue. Not sure if Youtube does that or not. The short and sweet of it is it is better to stream at a quality you can handle 100% of the time then one you can handle 80% of the time. Viewers notice that 20% of the time you can't handle it way more then the lower overall quality.

u/Fireman2k · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I was too lazy to do the manual crimping and keystones and all that crap

I used these cause it was thin enough to go anywhere... even under carpet

Cat 6 Ethernet Cable 50 ft White - Flat Internet Network Lan patch cords – Solid Cat6 High Speed Computer wire With clips& Snagless Rj45 Connectors for Router, modem – faster than Cat5e/Cat5 - 50 feet

And these

Cat6 Wall Plate and Keystone,Fly Tiger,Rj45 Jack Ethernet Connector,Female to Female,White (2 Port)

u/Temporal_P · 2 pointsr/Brawlhalla
u/andre_vauban · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Read this: (TLDR is doesn't matter which wiring standard you use, as long as you use the same one on both ends of any given segment. You can actually mix and match the cables to make a single run, as long as each segment matches. The only "issue" this causes is mass confusion)


Then buy a continuity checker like this:


Then test all your runs. If won't tell you if the any of the pairs are error prone, but it will at least let you know if they are connected correctly to pass a signal.

Also, check out what that coupler is doing and make sure it is straight through and not a cross-over or roll-over coupler.

u/ChargeThis · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

To questions 1 + 2:Nothing fancy. In cases where the category cable ends are already terminated with RJ45 connectors, something like this will work just fine, and where it's not already terminated, you can add your own connector and use the above coupler, or something like this. (Note: I haven't used these specific models, but they're all effectively the same thing)

The ISP's comment about running new cable and the quality not being good is a CYA move. The wire already in the wall might be damaged, in which case you'll know pretty quickly. An extra coupler will have negligible effect on normal home internet use.

If you're really worried, you can throw switches in instead of couplers, but they don't change the situation other than give you more ports at each junction.

#3: not a problem. Because it's behind the router (embedded in the modem), everything connected downstream (in your house) gets it's own local address, can talk within your network and out to the internet just fine. If the modem isn't also a router, then you'd have problems, but you'd already know.

#4: they make much fancier ones, but this gets decent enough reviews from what I can tell (again, haven't used this specific one). Plug it in on both ends, you'll know in seconds if the cable is good or not. If yes, you're in business and a coupler is all you need. If no, that's where the fancier ones come in and can tell you where along the wire the damage is and you could potentially splice and repair.

#5: leave as much slack as you can so you have cable left if you screw up or want to make changes later. Otherwise, don't worry, it's low voltage wire, only way to hurt yourself is to stab yourself with the copper wire ends.

u/RCBing · 1 pointr/homelab

Looks Krone to me. Small 66 style patch panel block for cheap.

u/cosmicosmo4 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

12-port wall-mount patch panel:

Your wall plate idea is also fine though.

u/PSPrez · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Another option, but very much inline with what others have suggested, a 12 port wall-mount patch panel:

They come with their own mounting bracket and might be a little easier to work with in your situation. You won't have to buy any extra pieces to make that work in your wiring closet. Also, much cheaper (per port) than the Leviton equipment you were first looking at.

u/bmzink · 1 pointr/homedefense

You can wall-mount some patch panels, might be a nice compromise for you. But no, you don't need it. You can just terminate your cables with RJ-45 and connect them where needed.

u/ajcannon · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I've used this one a number of times and have been extremely happy with it. BUT, it's only Cat5e and only 12 ports.

Maybe try something like this it's still only 12 port but if you want wall mount you could put two side by side?

u/Rhett_Rick · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Thanks. I found this patch panel from Tripp-Lite. Is this something I can do myself if I'm a total noob or should I bring a pro in to do it for me?

u/lightfork · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Normally you do not want to affect the signal level of the modem, relocating farther causes attenuation (loss) unless you use something higher than RG6. Are you able to login to it to see it's levels? I keep mine as close to service entrance as possible, cat6 to where it needs to go from there. I would supply them myself for quality purposes. And you dont wan't sharp bends, pinching etc. Bend radius should be 6".

All your wall plates should terminate centrally, normally to a patch panel or to an identical wallplate with keystone.

Leave yourself some/all drop ceiling. It helps for future upgrades or other service related work such as drains.

u/mail323 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Best is to install a patch panel in the utility room instead of using RJ45 connectors. Make sure it says Cat5, Cat6 cable is a different wire gauge (thickness) Something like this:

There you could also place a switch:

One of the jacks in your house would link that to your modem and then all the network jacks in the house will be active.

Once you get that sorted out you might want to consider 1-2 additional wifi access points at strategic locations to optimize wifi coverage.

u/frbird400 · 1 pointr/networking

Papa John explains everything here:

Follow T568B on both ends.

Use a small 12-port patch panel in the basement. Something like this:

u/clumsyfork · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I'm not sure I fully understand what you mean but this is what I am using in my Leviton:

I just screw it through the sheet metal in the back of the panel. I have a 1/2" plywood that I cut out behind the panel that I can put screws into through the Leviton panel. This way I don't have to use the expensive Leviton accessories.

I now see that you want it to be grounded/shielded. Not sure if you can find something similar that works.

u/RobinUrthos · 1 pointr/techsupportgore

Honestly, it seems possible to build a logger that is about the same size and shape as that jack and stuff it into an unassuming enclosure. Since transaction data doesn't take up a lot of space, it could just sit there for a week or so, sniffing up card info.

u/1new_username · 1 pointr/techsupport

Are you sure this is where it is bad/what is causing the problem. It is hard to tell from the picture exactly, so here is some general info.

The outer black layer is pretty much just for protection/shielding and could be replaced with electrical tape in a pinch (which it sounds like you have tried).

Inside you have 8 wires in 4 color pairs (a solid and a stripe). One or more of those wires may be damaged/disconnected.

I would look at them closely, peal back the black outer coating more if needed, and see if you can find any breaks in the 8 smaller wires. If you find one and absolutely don't want to buy anything to fix it right or run another cable, you may be able to strip off the outer coating on the individual wire to expose the copper wire inside.

Do that on both sides of the break, twist it together, cover with electrical tape, then try it out. If it works, cover the whole thing back up with electrical tape.

If you don't see any obvious breaks or issues, check into other issues (like is it maybe the router, the XBox, the cable RJ-45 plugs (the ends), etc).

Anyway, good luck. If you really want to fix it right, you could get a not that great, but serviceable crimper set for under $15:

Cut the cable on either side fo the tear, use that to put an RJ45 jack on each end of the break, then use a coupler like this to join them back:

I know that isn't what you want to do, but it may be the best way if that is the true cause/location of your problem.

u/yeagb · 1 pointr/homelab

Platinum tools makes something like that: Platinum Tools 100036 EZ-RJ45 Cat6 Strain Relief, (Clear). 50/Bag.(Pack of 50)

And: Platinum Tools 100010C EZ-RJ45 Cat 6+ Connectors, Clamshell, 50-Pieces

But they have their own crimper that cuts off the excess wire. I've never used them but I know people who do and they like them.

u/Murfgon · 1 pointr/homesecurity

Direct Burial the only drawback is price its very very expensive if that is not a concern the only other issue is the grease that they put inside just have a few paper towels on hand. I am personally a fan of the pull through RJ45 crimps

but you need a special tool to cut it off clean.

I especially like these as you can double check that you have not messed up as you pull them through just do a double check on your colour's

in Canada we tend to use T568a but i believe a lot of places use T568b personal preference,

I have never found any conduit that gets buried to be able to stop water ingress but any electrical supply store should be able to set you up with whatever you need but direct burial should be used as well especially if your in a place like Canada with a large temperature range.

u/Butt_Hurt_Toast · 1 pointr/homelab

Depends on your ends. If you're using fancy Ez push through Cat 6's like: Then I'd get the platinum tools one to match since it'll cut the cables off as you crimp.

Otherwise I'd go with Klein's. Their data cable stuff is very good.

u/ZiggidyZ · 1 pointr/homelab

I haven't used the cables yet, but either my cable tester I had no issues with all but 1 of them. That was a fluke more related to the beverage being consumed whist making the cables, one of the conductors didn't make it all the way into the plug before it was crimped, or it pulled out a bit.

I do see what you mean though.

Edit: These are basically what they are. I had the ones with the strain relief pieces too.

Platinum Tools 100010C EZ-RJ45 Cat 6+ Connectors, Clamshell, 50-Pieces

u/jitler · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I don't have a specific brand as I get mine from a local distributor but i'd look for the following;

  • Shielded cable - Great but often times you may need larger terminated ends because of the shielding
  • Cat-6 or Cat-6a, 6a if you can spring for it.
  • Solid cable vs Stranded; get the solid cable,its more durable for permanent installations.

    To make your life a bit easier I'd recommend an Ez crimp and ends for Ethernet terminating. They are a little more costly but will help you quite a bit during the installation.

u/beersykins · 1 pointr/networking

You'd probably benefit from these:

They make super tight connections that certify on flukes with room to spare.

u/telephoneguy · 1 pointr/uverse

Previous AT&T Tech here, please make sure the technician checks ALL connections. The fiber obviously the most important... then the Ethernet connection coming from the ONT to the RG (modem). If you can, make sure there are no butt connector splices as this means the install was done incorrectly (looks like this) Your Ethernet line should only have RJ-45 connections or punched down to a Keystone Jack. Anything else is done incorrectly and needs to be fixed to retain twists in the cable. Also, if they used existing cabling please make sure it is ATLEAST Cat5e or Cat6. If the existing wiring is on the outside of the building and looks aged/weathered, it needs to be replaced.

u/cherwilco · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

if you are new to terminations I would recommend these

not the best but the pass through really makes crimping your ends pretty painless and fool-proof

u/kaluce · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I think it's this, but I'm on mobile:

u/BCRoadkill · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Use these next time Platinum Tools 100010C EZ-RJ45 Cat 6+ Connectors. Every wire goes through so you know for sure that you have a good connection. Takes maybe a min or less per end with these.

u/Fritts336 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

you can start with one of these to test one end of the cable to the other. this is the cheap way
from there you can narrow down your problems

u/MonsieurOblong · 1 pointr/sysadmin

I got a cheapo cable tester from amazon for like 5 bucks when I bought a crimper and some ends.

100BASETX uses only 2 pairs of copper; 1000BASET uses 4 pair. If the brown or blue pairs (4,5 and 7,8 IIRC) are not connected properly you'll only end up with 100Mb speeds. I ran a few cables under my house. I don't remember having any issues back in the day making fast ethernet cables, but I'll be damned if I didn't have ALL KINDS of issues getting gigabit to work. I'm using CAT5e which is basically the minimum for gigabit, but my runs are short (30 feet) so it should have been fine. Oh well, I finally got it working with the help of my cable tester. But even sometimes when a cable tested out fine, I had issues with gigabit. I must have done both ends on each cable 5 or 10 times. Guess I'm just out of practice, or my cable sucks, or.. I don't know.

That's the other thing; As you appear to know, 100 meters is the spec for both fast ethernet and gigabit; if you're getting excessive noise due to cross-talk, the links might fail back to fast ethernet.

In practice, I suspect you just have some bad cables.

Here's a cheapo:

Here's one that costs more money:

u/BrotherChe · 1 pointr/techsupportgore

Heck, if you just need side-by-side and very basic testing

u/wesgarrison · 1 pointr/DIY

Make sure you look up how to attach the cable ends to the cables. There are 8 wires in the cable and they're color coded. You have to put them in the correct order or they won't work. [Technically, the actual color order doesn't matter, but they have to be consistent.]

Might not be worth it for a one-time job, but a cable tester like:
... is handy to check your work before it drives you insane. You plug in the remote to one end and the base to the other and it lights up if you have a connection or shows mismatches. When you're done, you can test cables using the base. Definitely worth the $5 since now you can make custom length ethernet cables for a fraction of the cost you can buy them at the store for.

You have to decide if you want to put plug ends on (like the end of an ethernet cable) which will plug straight into your device or receptacles that you mount to the floor/wall in a plate (and then you use a regular cable [that you can now make!] to connect it to your device.)

They both work, the receptacles and plates look nicer than a cable sticking out of the floor.

You'll need a drill and drill bits to put holes in things.
If you're going under, you'll want clips that hold the cable in place, maybe. Zipties work too.

You'll need a crimper, like:
You get the wires lined up into the plug and this squeezes the metal contacts down into the wires to hold them and make a connection.

It's totally doable, go for it!

u/ChicoLat · 1 pointr/homelab

Crap! Just bought pretty much the same items (different brands) less than 24 hrs ago on Amazon.

TRENDnet 8P/RJ-45 and 6P/RJ-12, RJ-11 Crimp, Cut, and Strip Tool, TC-CT68|$14.35
Network Cable Tester|$4.17
TRENDnet Punch Down Tool with 110 and Krone Blade TC-PDT|$20.34
CableWholesale CNE16127 RJ45 CAT-5 E Crimp Connector Solid|$4.55
C2G / Cables to Go 27352 Cat5E UTP Solid PVC CMR-Rated Cable, Grey (1000 Feet/304.8 Meters)|$99.85

Used CAT5E since CAT6 would be overkill for my needs and the budget is always tight.

u/iB83gbRo · 1 pointr/techsupport

Probably a bad wire. Hopefully you discovered this before running the cable... Buy a cheap cable tester for future use.

u/OgdruJahad · 1 pointr/techsupport

Update your Ethernet and wi-fi drivers.

Plus find out if there is an update to your router (check ISPs website first).

And if you haven't already, get yourself a cheap network tester, and test all the cables you are using, including the ones in the walls. To test the wiring in the wall, just plug in a network cable, and connect on of the network devices, then connect the other device to the other side of the cable.

u/bboy1977 · 1 pointr/DIY

I had the same exact question for DIY subreddit a few months ago looking to do the same thing as you. Forget about the patch panel and the big box stores. Don't spend a ton of money. You are just wiring a couple rooms. You can get everything off Amazon or ebay for cheap. If you don't care about phone service then just cut the cables and crimp on new. Then plug all the crimped ends into a switch. No need for a panel. You can get a tester for cheap at amazon:

I bought and used that one and it worked great. Probably not the best out there, but for a one time simple project to get a few rooms online it is more than enough.

The only thing to spend some money on is the punch down tool (Although doesn't look like you may need one based on your wall jacks). The ones that come free with other stuff are useless and will waste your time and wiring. This one worked well for me:

Crimping is easy as hell if you use connectors like this:

The crimping tool by the same brand actually cuts the excess wiring while you crimp. I did about 10 crimps and all worked perfect the first time. I bought a EZ RJ-45 $60 crimp tool from someone on ebay. Then sold it for the same amount two weeks later when I finished using it.

u/SnappyCrunch · 1 pointr/techsupport

Depending on how often you think you might do this, it may be worth your money to get a crimper, ends, and tester, and then you can make your own cables. Making your own cables isn't fun, but it's a lot easier to string bulk ethernet cable through walls then it is to try and get finished ethernet cables through walls without damaging them.

u/ma47152 · 1 pointr/timesplitters

Also get 6 copies of ts2

You need 6 ps2's just make sure theres a ethernet port in the back of them heres a picture example:

You also need 6 long ethernet cords:

You need to use a ethernet splitter so you can connect all the consoles together to play with one or another:

u/Dae_Dae_Bubble_Guts · 1 pointr/WWII
u/zerohourrct · 1 pointr/buildapc

Don't bother with wifi, buy a long ethernet cable and plug into the switch on the router.

Standard ethernet is rated for 100 ft of length, so 100meters cat5e is guaranteed to get you 1Gbps on supporting hardware, if you have satisfactory terminations.

EDIT: meters not feet actually, so up to 300ft long cable for 1gigabit on cat5e

u/jongery · 1 pointr/computers

Nothing will beat a wired connection. And you will never get that download speed on wifi... You have no access to your basement or attic to run ethernet? 100 feet is cheap.... Pair it with a 5 port gb switch for your desk would be a nice upgrade if needed...

With ~40 feet of distance, and everything in between like walls and doors, even with the best USB or PCI adapter, there will be signal loss.

A good way to test and see connectivity is to use your cell phone where your PC is located... in your web browser, or the Speed Test Ookla app... Also, I know on android, you can see the properties of the access point you are connected to and see the current speed you care connected at, ( n130, dual band n300, ac900~ish)

The Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I you linked would be a decent choice, especially being it has a better positionable antenna... Anything PCI and that type of antenna would be better than usb.

TP Link could work as well

u/Obroaskai · 1 pointr/buildapc

Ok so i hold the staple gun just a little above where im going to put the staple in so it doesnt go in all the way and it creates a little rung you see and you want the staple to be length wise along the cable too so you can ziptie through the staple if that makes any sense. I put a staple every couple feet so the cord doesnt sag at all and heres a link to a staple gun and just any gray or white ethernet cord should be good. cat5 cables are fine unless your gunna be doing 4k stuff then you should get a cat7 cable. i hope this helps man.

u/Gfresh404 · 1 pointr/techsupport

Simply plug in the adapter to a USB port in your laptop. Then run an ethernet cable from the adapter to your router or a spot in your wall.

u/tinster9 · 1 pointr/techsupport

/u/jmnugent 100% correct. My 2 cents to add is if you think you need 7ft get 14. Nice to have some room for cable management. Also, I wouldn't buy at Best Buy if dont have to. They over charge. See if local electronics shop has it or order online.

u/Sanguine_Pool · 1 pointr/techsupport

Yes, sorry about leaving that out, I've tried two cables. One was brand new.

u/ClearlyInsane1 · 1 pointr/techsupport

There are lots and lots of other sizes. I've bought ones as short as 1' and as long as 75'. The maximum length allowed is 100m. Here is a 14' one:

u/Silchas_Ruine · 1 pointr/techsupport

I'll get another cable then. Is there a particular brand that you recommend? I've been using this cable.

u/angatar_ · 1 pointr/xboxone
u/remembertosmilebot · 1 pointr/Entrepreneur

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

ethernet cable


^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

u/xstaygoldx · 1 pointr/GNV

Here is 50 feet of Cat5 cable for just under $10. I also saw 100 feet for $8.75.

u/Ad3t0 · 1 pointr/techsupport

Yes exactly! Get everything on Amazon and save your self a lot of money.


Mediabridge Cat5e Ethernet Patch Cable (50 Feet) - RJ45 Computer Networking Cord - Blue

Securifi Almond - (3 Minute Setup) Touchscreen Wi-Fi Wireless Router / Range Extender / Access Point / Wireless Bridge

Of course research for your self but these are two highly rated options I found in 30 seconds.

u/Physics_Prop · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Just saying that wired is way more reliable and some routers have default qos settings to prioritize wired over wireless connections.

I've seen many cases where turning on the microwave would lose wifi connection... or a neighbor moved in with this silly 5 device mesh wireless network and now the spectrum is too crowded to get any more wireless networks in the area.

u/ruoloC · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace
u/dragonblade629 · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Get at least a 25 ft. ethernet cable, you'll need to make sure you have the length in case your computer is on the opposite end of your dorm. Also, get a small, 19" or so, TV that'll be light enough to carry in between your home and dorm. If your university has cable, you'll want a coaxial cable to hook up your TV to it, and an HDMI cable (I recommend a flat cable) to hook your computer up to the TV to use it as a second monitor. You won't be able to game or anything, due to the refresh rate, but it will be perfectly fine for watching videos on Netflix/Hulu/Xfinity/Crunchyroll/Whichever video provider you use.

Would you like a falafel with that?

u/Sovano · 1 pointr/buildapc

It seems you're very confused by what everyone is trying to tellyou so I'll try to break it down for you.

Your computer can connect to the internet either through a wired connection or wireless connection (also known as Wi-Fi).

Wired Connection

For a wired connect you need three things

    1. A modem (the box that provides allows you to have internet)

    1. Computer with an Ethernet/LAN (Local Area Network) port.
      An Ethernet/LAN port looks like [this] (

    1. An Ethernet cable (this is the wired connection). An Ethernet cable looks like this

      What you do is plug the Ethernet cable into both the modem and your computer into the Ethernet/LAN ports. The Ethernet cable passes the internet connection from the modem to your computer.

      Wireless Connection
      There are multiple ways of connecting wirelessly to the internet, but in your case you need primarily two things:

    1. A router. This is different from a modem. A modem allows you to connect to the internet through a wired connection. A router allows you to the internet without a wired connection. With that being said there are modems which are also routers (so they are two devices in one).

      Because you don't have a wired connection to pass the internet on to your computer, you need something else so your computer can connect to your router. There are several methods of connecting to the internet but I'll cover the two most common ones for desktops.

    1. PCI-E network adapter. Here's an example of [one] (
    1. USB network adapter. Here's an example of [one] (

      If you install one of these on your computer, they will act as the internet receiver. What does this mean? Your router (which is the source of your internet) can connect to the internet receiver, which would give you a wireless internet connection.

      Whether you want to connect to the internet through a wired or wireless connection is completely up to you (however most will suggest a wired connection because this is the most reliable type of connection).

      Note: The links I provided were for educational purposes only and are not necessarily recommendations, however I picked them from the best-sellers list in Amazon for their categories so they aren't necessarily bad either.
u/beastskitta · 1 pointr/techsupport

Just about all of your premade network cables are going to support CAT 6 / CAT 5e / Cat 5. Here is one at Amazon. I don't know what kind of length you need, but they have different lengths.
I run my Xbox One off of wired and I have no issues. I trust a cable over wireless.

u/x2mike2x · 1 pointr/buildapc
  1. No you would have the have the USB stick there all the time. Your computer does not have an antenna. It needs a piece of hardware to send and receive radio signals. The IEEE 1394a port is also called fire wire. It is like USB, but it has sort of died out so you probably wont ever use it. It is for older external hard drives and such. You can have internet right now if you use and Ethernet cable and plug into the router. That is how most people with a desktop do it. I can tell you are pretty new to this so please feel free to keep asking questions, I would be glad to keep helping until you get it sorted out.
u/lylx · 1 pointr/NoStupidQuestions

Mediabridge Ethernet Cable (25 Feet) - Supports Cat6 / Cat5e / Cat5 Standards, 550MHz, 10Gbps - RJ45 Computer Networking Cord (Part# 31-399-25X)

u/PunchyMcHurtyFist · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

I just need a second opinion, would this LAN cable be good enough to connect my Switch to a wired connection? Never bought one before, but I figured Nintendo's not known for the most stable online so I want to give my internet the best chance it can get. What do you think about the cable?

u/HalfSaiyan · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

So ive been looking into everything.

Retro pie was a little tough but I got it. Kodi seems to be for streaming music and shows that I already have downloaded, correct? Am I able to go to youtube/twitch with that? And the roku stick is for netflix? Does that sound about right?

The pi seems to only have one ethernet port correct? And that will be used to connect to my computer so I can play games from steam? I didnt realize you can use ethernet as an hmdi cord thats pretty cool. I already have this one:

Thats good right?

u/anyapeach · 1 pointr/splatoon

This might sound like a lot of work but at my old place I got this 100 ft ethernet cable for my Wii U and it still serves me pretty well. It was well worth it. Without a cable unless you've got amazing WiFi you'll probably run into a lot of issues that'll sap the fun right out of playing.

u/Mystic87 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Here is a 100FT one. That should be enough, you can change to a smaller one if need be.

u/Paintball3 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Yes, my phone is connected via WiFi to the same router that I have an Ethernet connection with. This is the one I'm using.

u/rcardare · 1 pointr/NiceHash

I have this rack and can confirm it is very heavy duty.

I also picked up the casters for this, a PDU, and a shelf or two.

Rails mount to the side of the server and fit into those slots. Most of your installation time will be spent on getting the rails setup but mostly due to a bit of a learning curve. All of my servers came with rails but you will need one rated for a 4U and weight load.

If you're on 120v, you should consider running your servers off 240.

u/SpyShadow · 1 pointr/NiceHash

H 7.00" x W 16.80" x D 25.00" (Include panel)

Thinking these below would work perfect to allow easy insert and removal.

NavePoint Adjustable Rack Mount Server Shelf Shelves Rail Rails 1U (33.25" max depth)

Only thing that concerns me is the front handles being in the way with those server shelves. Wonder if I can just leave them on and it would still slide in with the shelves, guess I will find out. Worst case scenario, I just remove the handles, be a bit more of the pain to remove the servers that way. So far, we came up with a good list here of equipment.

Tripp Lite 25U 4-Post Open Frame Rack, Network Equipment Rack, 1000 lb. Capacity (SR4POST25) 22" to 36" depth

u/falcon4287 · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

This was a simple cluster, not really designed for running a lot of VMs. We run 3 AD servers, a File Server, and one server for a special piece of software. That's a total of only 5 Windows 2008 R2 VMs, but you can see that it can handle much more.

>SAN $230:
x2 VM Server $1200:
SSD $75:
x2 Boot Drives $206:
x2 Storage Drives $280:
x3 Batteries $300:
Shelf $31:
Server Rack $281:
Microsoft Server 2008 R2 $695:
x2 Microsoft Server CALs $298:
Switch $66:
Firewall $90:
Rack Screws $27:
Drive Converter $15:

That is the full setup from the rack down to the software licenses that runs 144GB RAM and 4TB usable drive space on ZFS with a 128GB SSD Read cache. It falls short of $4k. We use XenServer and OpenIndiana.

That's only two VM servers, but every VM the client needs can easily run on one in case of a failure. Just thought I would share this setup to show that it is feasible to price a VM cluster out at under 6k. This is not the cheapest build I've done, but definitely near it and much smaller than I would recommend for most people. It is actually smaller than I recommended for this client, but it is what it is.

u/papertigerss · 1 pointr/homelab

I use this. They sell smaller versions too. Tripp Lite SR4POST25 25U 4-Post Open Frame Rack Cabinet Square Holes 1000lb Capacity

u/TDSheridan05 · 1 pointr/homelab

That rack looked a little sketchy to me when I was shopping for a rack. I bought this one. at the time it was $50 cheaper on amazon.

u/Fuzzybunnyofdoom · 1 pointr/homelab

I bought this rack -

It has adjustable depth and works fine for mounting servers.

u/IT_dude_101010 · 1 pointr/homelab

Tripp Lite SR4POST25 25U 4-Post Open Frame Rack - Amazon

This works great, especially with the wheels.

u/Hawkdup45 · 1 pointr/buildapc

If you can build a pc you can run some cat5e cable where ever you live. People say im just renting and I can't put holes in the wall and all other kinds of things. You can run it along the base boards using cable clamps or do any number of things to make it work. Just get some cable and here's everything else you need including the tool so for about $50 you can run as much cable as you need. I would run one line to your gaming room and use a Gigabit Ethernet switch for everything in the room. A real gamer never uses wifi because they know about networking.

u/CharlestonChewbacca · 1 pointr/pcgaming

In most homes, the attic is a good place to start. In this process you'll need to cut a small rectangular hole in the wall to actually put something like this. Which holds this. Which connects to your internet source (whether it be cable or satellite) via some cat5 cable. (which you can buy small amounts of for much cheaper.) That you'll need to feed through the walls (from the top with assistance from gravity and because your internet source is most likely in the attic.)

See this article for more info.

u/devonnull · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Per 1000ft, the cabling shouldn't even be that much if you did it yourself.

Cat 5e

Cat 6

That seems a bit excessive to me in terms of per run based on the cabling alone as the work boxes, face plates and jacks don't even cost that much. Yeah I understand the contractor needs to make money. Is the contractor putting in a patch panel as well?

u/Supaslicer · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

UbiGear New 200ft 60m Blue 200' Ft Rj45 Cat6 Ethernet LAN Network Internet Computer

Avid Power 20V MAX Lithium Ion Cordless Drill, Power Drill Set with 3/8 inches Keyless Chuck, Variable Speed, 16 Position and 22pcs Drill/Driver Bits

Voila... Enjoy

Ps... Im being a jerk for fun... I know the struggle

u/YimYimYimi · 1 pointr/MortalKombat

>And we can't really afford it know how to set up ethernet

You literally run one of these (this is max length, you probably don't need something this long)

from your console to your router. That's it. You can use these

if you don't want to run a cable through your place.

u/Nazthatguy · 1 pointr/buildapc

This should do it. (don't acutully as this is a joke and I don't recommend getting a long ethernet cord as that may worsen the situation)

u/djreisch · 1 pointr/gaming

May I present to you.... a very long Ethernet cable

u/steveowashere · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Get one of these instead.

u/CBRjack · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

You can get a 300' ethernet cable for $30 on Amazon. Even at 300', it will still give you full gigabit with the only added latency of 300' at 2/3 the speed of light : 0.0002 milliseconds (202 nanoseconds).

u/danhm · 1 pointr/techsupport
u/supergodmasterforce · 1 pointr/PS4
u/Evolievolution · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

I'm looking into getting a wired connection for my Switch and i've got two questions for now.

  1. I have an old Wii Lan Adapter that i never wound up using, am i right to assume, that it'll work with the Switch?
  2. Since i need an additional Ethernet Cable to connect the Console, would this one work? Just trying to make sure i don't waste my money on a wrong cable.
u/ImaginaryCheetah · 1 pointr/hometheater

i'll join the chorus.

a RG6 and a Cat6 cable in the wall on either side of the door, will usually be sufficient.

if you want to be generous, run 2 network cables at each point, in case they are older tenants that want a land line.

i'd recommend using a 3 port keystone plate.

for the living room, i'd do the same setup, but on opposite walls as the main walk through.

if you want to be a hero, you can put speaker wire for rear channels, they make keystone speaker jacks. you'd spend like $30 for the jacks and some 14/2 wire, and let future tenants have rear channel speakers w/o tripping over the speaker wires. so you'd get a 2 speaker plate for both walls, and run a pair of 14/2 stranded cables between them.

as others have said, run all of these cables (except the speaker wires) to a closet somewhere and land them on a coax splitter and a network punch down block, both of which can be had pretty cheap. if you want to get fancy you can get a low-voltage panel than nails in between the studs and keeps everything nice.

what you REALLY want to do, is get some 1" ENT (smurf) and install that from the closet, out to your demarc on the outside of the building. so that jack ass cable companies and phone companies don't drill your building full of holes, and instead can pass their wire in the tube to your closet.


monoprice has great prices on bulk cable, and one wall plates.

ethernet patch panel

coax splitter


leviton and ON-Q both make convenient structured wiring cabinets.

you'll be locked into their ecosystem for the cable splitters, etc, that fit into the cabinet, but they make a very tidy package that you can easily nail into the studs and know exactly where to pull all your wires to.

u/pasaver · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I'm building a house and I gave the contractor one of these to terminate the cat6.

It has enough spots for everything and I can just use patch cables to connect to a switch when I move in.

u/Foxum · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Why not just run long 50-100ft ethernet cable along side of your walls on floor and hammer it using wire mounts to make it all flush and hidden? It's what I did and came out nice and out of the way. Ethernet is pretty cheap on amazon you can get 100ft of cable for next to nothing worth a try for 20$, may want to be something you look into as only way to get true 1gpbs.

u/SangestheLurker · 1 pointr/XboxOneHelp


For example, here's a $17US available here in the States:

u/tolitius · 1 pointr/videosurveillance

thank you for the list

I am still researching DORI and differences between cameras, but from what I gathered so far here is what I need:

  • blue iris $70 (with a phone app)
  • pc (since it only supports windows) likely i7-6700 something like this
  • PoE switch: something like this
  • router, I have an old lynksys with dd-wrt which should do it
  • several very long ethernet cables with some couplers
  • most likely also a UPS
  • ONVIF, PoE cameras

    the last bit I am still looking at. I am not ready to spend several hundred dollars per camera (one of your examples is Dahua 2MP Starlight which seems to be super expensive). While I understand it might be much better than the rest, I'd like to see if I can be in a $50 to $100 dollar range per camera. Is there any such cameras you can recommend?

    I can see some (ONVIF, PoE): Hikvision 4MP, ONWOTE 5MP, ONWOTE, 4X Optical Zoom Autofocus, Amcrest ProHD, GW Security 5, JideTech PTZ, etc. but I am not sure how to gauge the quality.
u/LetsSynth · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

These super flat Ethernet cable can work wonders if you’d like

u/sk9592 · 1 pointr/buildapc

If at all possible, a really long ethernet cable is the ideal solution:

However, if ethernet absolutely is not an option for you, then proper 3x3 AC Wi-Fi on both the router and receiver ends can do wonders:



The key is to get a receiver that has an extension cable. You want to have flexibility in where you can position it. You don't want it sticking directly into your computer and being blocked by a bunch of stuff with a lot of interference.

u/CarlCaliente · 1 pointr/nfl

I second the flat white cables

can even buy them with the clips and tiny nails

u/ericheidecker · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

This is fantastic. I appreciate the offer. I'll let you know if I have problems.

Is the SF/FTP the best shielding then?

I already purchased this one, but I can get a different one.

u/JJCapriNC · 1 pointr/PS4

being in an apartment, yeah, probably a lot more copper and noise between circuits.
personally, i run a 100' ethernet cable....

u/haekuh · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Sure, but it will be best to show your parents before actually doing it.

I know this is US amazon but this is an example of flat ethernet cable

u/jamvanderloeff · 1 pointr/buildapc

Best option where possible is run a cable. You can get flat cables that are easier to run through gaps

What's your current WiFi adapter?

u/babecafe · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

You can get standards-compliant flat cables, such as this example:

That page also has a link to a CAT7 compliant version.

Presumably, you could tape this to a floor or run it under a rug.

u/SsurebreC · 1 pointr/funny

Pro tip for laptop owners:

  • go to Control Panel => Network and Sharing Center => Change Adapter Settings
  • hold the ALT key, click on Advanced on top => Advanced Settings
  • you'll see your wifi vs. Ethernet. Click on Ethernet and click on the up arrow to move it to the highest position

    What this will do:

  • when you're plugged in, you'll always use Ethernet
  • when you're not, it'll use Wifi

    I.e. you won't be on wifi when you're plugged in. This is particularly helpful at work when you go in and out your work area.

    This is how I set up all laptops at work so people spend the least amount of time on Wifi.

    Also, go here, download their software, get a layout of your home/office, and walk around clicking on each step. This will map all your wifi signals in your house or office (including wireless printers) so you know where you can get the best connection (which affects all your wireless devices including your phone).

    Also, in case you're wondering why you're disconnected, here is how wifi works. When you're watching a video, you get a buffer so the quick disconnect (< 1s) won't be a problem since you have the buffer but if you need a constant connection (ex: your remote system) then it can disconnect you due to lack of signal. Video games, websites, apps, etc don't care if you lose the signal for a second or so (that's what a lag spike is) but some software (including online games) have a timer where if you're disconnected for a few seconds, it'll kick you off.

    Are you far away from the router? Here is a 50' Ethernet cord with cable clips for $12. You can run this alongside your floor panels if you like.

    Always use Ethernet if you can - it's the fastest and most stable signal you can get that's pretty cheap.
u/RiotBoatStuff · 1 pointr/leagueoflegends

Flat ones? I've used those to run under doors before.

u/AfraidOfArguing · 1 pointr/StAugustine

If you have carpet you can order a 50 to 100 foot FLAT Ethernet cable to run from one room to another, and you can pull up the edge of the carpet and lay it underneath. if it is a flat cable it will not show when you lay the carpet back down. You should be able to then set up another router, move the current router you have, or you can alternatively get a long phone line to run through your carpet.

Doesn't take much effort and a youtube video could handle it. Just make sure it is at least Cat6 (1 gigabit per second at least) as a cable. Cat5 is an older technology.


Setting up a router itself has some very simple youtube videos that explain how to do it. It's honestly not that hard to set up a router - the difficulty comes when you have to apply new DNS ports (Which is something most people dont have a clue about). Heck, maybe once you get the ethernet cable there it can connect directly, or you can get a dongle that lets you apply the ethernet cable as a phone cable instead.

Getting someone to come out and run wire through your wall is going to be destructive and cost a lot of time. The best option is DIY and to just buy a longer cable and run it from one room to another.

Source: Software Engineer / Jr. Hardware Technician


Here's some links that might be helpful

u/Bmic31 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Any one that has a good amount of positive reviews should do.

Cat 6 Ethernet Cable 50 ft White - Flat Internet Network Lan patch cords – Solid Cat6 High Speed Computer wire With clips& Snagless Rj45 Connectors for Router, modem – faster than Cat5e/Cat5 - 50 feet

u/GaryJS3 · 1 pointr/nvidiashieldtv

A wired connection is substantially faster than 2.4 and 5ghz. Not only in greater bandwidth but also with less delay over the Network. It also won't be slowed down by other wireless devices as much. I highly recommend wiring any device that has the option, WiFi is really only for things that don't have a LAN port or need to be mobile - as far as I'm concerned.

Any rj45 Ethernet cable will do the job, typically CAT5e or CAT6. Just a quick Amazon search;

That one is kinda long at 50ft. But it'll give you an idea of what to look for. I would just look at items that have lots of good ratings and you'll be fine.

u/theepicdoom123 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Cat 6 Ethernet Cable 50 ft White - Flat Internet Network Lan patch cords – Solid Cat6 High Speed Computer wire With clips& Snagless Rj45 Connectors for Router, modem – faster than Cat5e/Cat5 - 50 feet - $10!!

u/NanoArcus · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace
u/Yogi_DMT · 1 pointr/techsupport

Is the problem that you only have one Ethernet port? As u/dageekywon mentioned a hub would probably be your best option. A wireless access point is another option and that would make things a little neater. For the distances you're working with any cable long enough will do. This looks like a decent option. If i'm not mistaken it's only when you're running line for over 100 feet that signal degradation starts to be a factor.

u/fellowstarstuff · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I'm looking at buying Jadaol's flat 50ft Cat6 on Amazon, here

The reviews seem pretty good, does it seem like a decent quality that isn't one of the poor-quality ones you describe?

u/Maverick717x · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

i was thinking of getting this router with this moca adapter and use this ethernet cord. I believe the coax outlets are all connected because i took the router from upstairs and plugged it into my coax and it worked perfect. As far as speeds i mostly want to be able to set up a wired connection to my computer for gaming and be able to connect my ps4 with a wired connection and all my other devices wireless.

u/djrobzilla · 1 pointr/Steam_Link

Personally I run the wired ethernet and it works flawlessly. Almost any wireless router should have fast enough ethernet to make Steam Link run perfect. I have white walls so I just use the flat white ethernet cables that come with wall/ceiling tacks and run them across the ceiling to my steam link. Took me about ten minutes and $11 worth of supplies. Plus, no one has ever noticed the cables unless I pointed them out, to which they are always like "Oh wow I didn't even realize they were there"

u/Wade92le · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I've only got one cat6 cable, other people who purchased dont seem to have a problem getting gigabit internet with the same cable I have... but I suppose I will have to try a new one if I cant figure anything else out.

the cable im using--

u/itsCliffordY · 1 pointr/buildapc

I used this 50 ft ethernet to connect my switch in my other room and I get full speeds. I have 240 down / 12 up if that matters.

u/GeauxTri · 1 pointr/orbi

Three lengths of Cat5e that are joined with RJ45 couplers. The cable was then tested to ensure that it is not miswired.

It's no different than if I ran a single length of Cat5e from one wall plate to another and then used another length of cable to plug into the router and satellite.

u/RamenWeabooSpaghetti · 1 pointr/techsupport

This tester is cheap and will help determine if any ethernet cables have a broken or defective wire causing the issue.

But as I said in my earlier reply, unless you have a switch with lots of ethernet going around to test, I would just grab some ethernet cables and test replacing existing wires.

u/Vlad_the_Homeowner · 1 pointr/homeowners

The premade plate that I linked is actually a punch down style, the same thing /u/Rick91981 recommended above. That's not actually what I intended, though it will certainly work. The punch down is the better long term solution, but personally I think using crimp on RJ45 connectors is just fine for casual residential use. As you said, it's only a small basement.

I ran about 2000 feet of Cat 6 throughout my house during a reno. Just off the top of my head I'd estimate there were a good 40 individual lines. I wanted to verify that the lines were good before we sealed the walls, so I put the RJ45 connectors on every line, turning it into a cable and allowing me to use a tester to verify it was wired correctly (the first couple I did had a pretty terrible success rate, but it quickly gets better). Fast forward to after the walls are done and it's time for me to terminate the connectors. I could cut the connector off and use a punch down style plate like I linked, but instead I just got these, which is just a coupler; I plug my finished connector into the inside which sits in the wall, and on the outside I have a wall plate with an ethernet port. Worked great. Some say it won't be as durable, and if they fall apart in the next year I'll agree, but I really don't see that happening.

You're only doing a couple connections, so it's really up to you. A punchdown tool is actually cheaper than a decent crimper and stripper set (and a cheap crimper/stripper makes the process miserable), so I suppose it's the better option. Whichever way you go, terminate all ends into a wall plate. Then just use patch cables (little 1-3 foot cables you can buy premade) to run from the wall plate to your router/tv/computer etc.

u/ezfrag · 1 pointr/networking

Might as well add a cable tester to your kit. You're going to screw it up a couple of times before you get the hang of it, so be sure to cut the cables a good bit longer than you actually need.

iMBAPrice - RJ45 Network Cable Tester for Lan Phone RJ45/RJ11/RJ12/CAT5/CAT6/CAT7 UTP Wire Test Tool with Carry Case

u/clear831 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I purchased a commercial property and they didnt label any of the rj45's so I bought this to go around and detect what was what. Flawless!

u/Cum_Gazillionaire · 0 pointsr/homeautomation

Hello, great article. I’ve been having a hard time finding a basic guide for setting home a home WiFi network using Ethernet cables. Every room in my house has the cabling for it but I don’t know what my hub ought to look like coming from the Verizon FiOS terminal. This is where I will eventually have my smart home hub as well (haven’t gotten to research that yet). Do I need one of these:
Or this?

If not full article-worthy, any tips would be much appreciated. Thanks!

u/gh5046 · 0 pointsr/raspberry_pi

For some people this might look like a good deal. Nice packaging, printed documentation, all in a nice kit. There is a market for it and I'm sure they'll sell plenty.

The bright colors and fancy box do jack for me. And lets be frank. Most children, which this product is aimed at, won't care either what color the keyboard is or how nicely it's packaged. They'll only care what they can do with it, and there's already a huge community around the Raspberry Pi to give children cool stuff to play with.

You can spec out all of this stuff for almost $50 less and have the newer model Pi. Sure, for some people, this looks like a great deal. For me, without a screen/monitor, it's no good.

u/SirkovTheWanderer · 0 pointsr/Twitch

I ordered that one, though I can still cancel it. It says it supports Cat 6 and Cat 5. Someone else is also saying I should get Cat 7.

Does it matter if I don't have Fiber internet? I don't think I do, but I'm not 100% sure.

u/moosic · 0 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Use of these to find out where each port goes

iMBAPrice - RJ45 Network Cable Tester for Lan Phone RJ45/RJ11/RJ12/CAT5/CAT6/CAT7 UTP Wire Test Tool

u/Ford47 · -2 pointsr/truegaming
u/Sheruk · -2 pointsr/DotA2

use ethernet cable, thank me later

best 13$ of your life

u/alcarcalimo1950 · -4 pointsr/MortalKombat