(Part 2) Best ethernet cables according to redditors

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We found 1,547 Reddit comments discussing the best ethernet cables. We ranked the 661 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

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Subcategories:

Cat 5 ethernet cables
Cat 5e ethernet cables
Cat 6 ethernet cables
Cat 7 ethernet cables

Top Reddit comments about Ethernet Cables:

u/pandazerg · 31 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You might look at these connectors.

Each connector has an insert that the strands are inserted into which then gets inserted into the connector and crimped.

They are a bit more expensive, but have been so much easier to work with in my experience.

u/geekworking · 13 pointsr/homelab

Bad termination "works", but when it decides to get funky it can give you all sorts of troubleshooting headaches. Much better to do it right the first time.

The holes in the back of the wall box are to mount modules like a [small patch panel] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000U3DXM4/ref=pd_aw_sim_60_of_16?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3KD636KR3SCX8X0YTGG6) . Terminate in a small patch panel and get some pre-made patch cables.

u/carpetedman · 11 pointsr/Music

You probably just don't have the sophisticated hearing of the OP. I bet you don't even have audiophile ethernet cables.

u/VA_Network_Nerd · 10 pointsr/Cisco

A USB to RJ45 cable will probably work fine.

I've never used one, and I don't see any such cables with long histories of positive reviews & glowing feedback.

But I have used USB to DB9 serial adapters, combined with traditional DB9 to RJ45 Cisco Console Cables for years, with excellent result.

USB to DB9
DB9 to RJ45 Console Cable

u/iHelp101 · 9 pointsr/perktv

All the links contain affiliate links (tag=lx7-20&linkId=fe646f143f52bb0de1504aa396676d4e). Unaffiliated links are below. The user has posted affiliate links before, so I believe this is not an "Oops" mistake. The users also posted this in Beermoney as well, but it was removed because of the affiliate links included.
_____
Access Point - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRO512/

Router - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YFJT29C

Powerline Adapter - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EE9APYS

Modem -https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016PE1X5K

Ethernet Cables - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E5I7VJG


u/RiotBoatStuff · 8 pointsr/leagueoflegends

Yea, distance doesn't make a difference if you have a large amount of 2.4GHz noise in the air :( If your router is literally that close and you have no cable, I'll mail you one from my spool.

u/thencomesdudley · 8 pointsr/UIUC

This is one of the best ways to set it up without getting caught.

u/Stickfigs · 7 pointsr/techsupport

Yea, running ethernet would probably be the overall better solution.

You can't just split the coax to the modem/router and expect it to work. Your ISP gives you one, usually dynamic, IP address that authenticates to the local node with the credentials of the modem.

If you add another modem to the equation, I doubt it would authenticate unless you set that up with your ISP beforehand.

Get some bulk water-proof Cat5e and just run that cable to a switch in the pool house.

u/justlurking777 · 6 pointsr/techsupportmacgyver

Cat 6 Junction boxes have worked for me countless times.
https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Junction-Punch-listed/dp/B0059DRCGI

u/jwheelie · 6 pointsr/homelab

This is what I use in my Enclosure which do the trick.




Cable Matters Rack or Wall Mount 24-Port Cat6 /Cat 6 Keystone Patch Panel (Blank Patch Panel) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0072JVT02/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oYEOCbG39EJ6




With these




[UL Listed] VCE 25-Pack CAT6 RJ45 Keystone Jack Inline Coupler-Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075ZPGV1H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_b2EOCbYDXVKVG



u/InsideOutsider · 6 pointsr/DIY

Why not just use two pass thru boxes with a short cable between? Avoid crimping.

These things: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002JP92K8/ref=redir_mdp_mobile snap into covers that fit standard boxes.

u/SerialTimeKiller · 5 pointsr/splatoon

If everything else connected to your home internet is solid, and it's just the Wii U that's being derpy, an ethernet switch with a wired Wii U adapter would be a cheap, bulletproof solution as /u/XAZSplatoon has said.

I'm partial to [Netgear equipment](http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Gigabit-Ethernet-1000Mbps-GS205/dp/B00KFD0SMC?ie=UTF8&ref
=sr_1_5), but anything will work. I prefer gigabit (10/100/1000) switches, just because you can push more data around your local network and they're really not much more expensive than 10/100 ("Fast") older types.

Here's the network adapter you need for your Wii U. Get the cheap white one that's $11. I haven't had any disconnects from matches since using one. The Wii U installed it automatically. I just plugged it into one of the USB ports on the Wii U, turned on the system, and then went to Connections and chose Wired Connection. It's been rock solid.

Get a 5-pack of Cat6 cables. (I'd go minimum 5-ft; you always want to have plenty of length.) Now, you have plenty of cables to run into and out of that switch.

There. For like $45, you just vastly improved your network at home. You can sell it as that to your dad. Offer to pay for some, all, or at least the Wii U adapter yourself to sweeten the deal. Also, all the stuff I just linked is top quality for a great price, so it will be great to use for all sorts of things network-related in the house or anywhere pretty much indefinitely. You and your dad will probably find ways to use all the ports on that switch pretty quickly.

Again, this will solve it if everything but the Wii U is generally solid, connectionwise. If the connection to other things is squirrelly, we can go further and talk about routers and such, but it sounds like this will be sufficient.

u/0110010001100010 · 5 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Yep, Monoprice is pretty much the source for inexpensive, quality cables.

If you absolutely MUST use Amazon OP, Cable Matters has high-quality cables: https://smile.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Snagless-Ethernet-Patch/dp/B007NZHQDY/

u/Shadynasties · 5 pointsr/xboxone

I know you're trolling, but here's a 1000 foot cord, I really can't think of many homes that would need a cord larger than 1000 feet, if your house is too big for a 1000 foot cord odds are you have the money to have a Ethernet network installed in your walls like a commercial business.

u/deathchimp · 5 pointsr/HomeNetworking

The way to solve problems like this is through process of elimination.

What happens when you plug the Ethernet cable directly into your laptop instead of your router?

What happens when you use your laptop near the pool. Do you get the 100Mb speeds?

Can you test plugging your laptop directly into his modem with a shorter cable?

Can you confirm that he is actually getting the speeds he thinks he is?

If you still get slow speeds it's a problem with your laptop. If your speeds improve then it's a problem with the cat5 cable.

Regardless, it would be a good idea to gan outdoor rated Ethernet cable like this one:

100ft Cat5e Outdoor Waterproof Ethernet Cable Direct Burial 100 ft (Shielded & Grounded) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001B6DM52/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ablmybKNWRTQ7

Because any normal cable will start to deteriorate pretty quickly.

u/firemogle · 4 pointsr/homeautomation

So if this was a business with pro installation, you would re-pull it all.

Personally I would get a splice box and connect them that way.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0059DRCGI?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

u/chubbysumo · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

If you have enough cable to cut the damage out, you could get an inline splice like this, and just cut the damage out, and punch them in.

u/cmPLX_FL · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Ethernet Cable

Order that and call it a day. :)

CAT6 is good for 100 meters or 328 feet.

u/logikgear · 3 pointsr/homelab

I'm not sure if it is. Definitely makes it a lot cleaner. These are what I use in the rack and all the keystone wall plates in my house. I hate doing punch downs.

[UL Listed] VCE 25-Pack CAT6 RJ45... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075ZPGV1H?ref=

u/gentlewarts · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

You'll be cutting it close with the max length for cat6, but hopefully should be OK if you keep it less than 100 meters. Quick search found this cabling which should be fine w/o PVC: https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Ethernet-Waterproof-Direct-Underground/dp/B00GYGQ31E
As for your the wifi in your trailer, the best solution is to set the router to access point mode which when connected would act as an extension of your home network. You may need to set an IP manually to manage it if it doesn't get one automatically. If that's not an option or you want your trailer to have a separate network you'll need to assign it an external IP on your current network (192.168.1.2 for instance) and make sure the DHCP settings are set to something different. (ex. 192.168.2.0/24)

u/thrwawy1131 · 3 pointsr/UCSC

AC isn't the keyword you want. If you want better speeds you need to look for one with gigabit ethernet ports like this one. You also need to plug the router into the wall with a gigabit cable.

u/CbcITGuy · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

So that's actually called a Leviton Media Enclosure, or a very similar knockoff. Looks like someone didn't fully know what they were doing, or was planning on using biscuit jacks, either way they left too much unsheathed.


As for your concern about the patch panel, try this. It's designed for those.

Also, try this for that splitter job going on.


Edit: Didn't even realize these existed.

Edit: I REALLYYYY wanted to make a comment about everyone calling these contractors lazy, but wasn't sure leviton made blank patch panels for these enclosures, they do. This could have been intended for one of these to go in. I know I'd never heard of them until a Texas Roadhouse had me use one during the rack refresh, now I recommend them to everyone, they make my life so much easier, and I can install pass through cat5's for those jerk wads that run pre-cuts (So i don't have to rerun) as well as coax keystones and more.

u/zanfar · 3 pointsr/electricians

That's a structured media enclosure. You should probably find someone who knows low-voltage to give you a hand. There are a million accessories designed specifically to fit in shallow boxes like that. Some thoughts:

  • Replace those daisy-chained RF splitters with one 8-way splitter. You may need an active splitter if you have reception problems, but if the current situation is working, I don't think this will be an issue.

  • Are those CAT5 cables solid or stranded? If they are solid, they should be punched down to a panel like this and then patch from there to the router or switch. You can cut the Cat5 back to fit better (those cables are far too long) but leave a decent service loop tied up in the back for future maintenance.

    Even if they aren't solid-core, you should put new ends on them. Two of them look sketchy. Make sure you get ends meant for solid- or stranded-core.

  • It looks like you have a power solution already, but if not, you can find power strips that mount to that kind of enclosure as well.

    TL;DR: There are small network devices meant specifically to mount inside a shallow structured enclosure like that. Get the right equipment, clean up the cables with some zip ties, and find a door.
u/Curtofthehorde · 3 pointsr/Langamers

A switch and some cheap color coded cables! Made network setup a breeze.

Folding tables/chairs make setup and breakdown easy. Set up an extra for snacks/drinks.

Put a small cheap waste basket at each table to keep tables clean and clear.

Velcro Strips keep cables tidy at the lan or the battlestation as well as keeping them from tangling in your bag.

u/igeekone · 3 pointsr/techsupport

Convince them to let you run an Ethernet cable. You'll need an outdoor cable like this to withstand weather.

u/Hotrian · 3 pointsr/HTCVive

Not including the length between the Linkbox and the Vive, just the length between the Linkbox and my PC, I'm at 50ft (15m)! I'm using this HDMI cable, this USB<->Ethernet converter and this Ethernet cable at a total of just over $100.

Everything works great except the front camera only works when I skip the Linkbox for USB and plug my Vive's USB right into the extender. You can skip the USB for the Vive and plug it right into the USB<->Ethernet converter and still plug the Linkbox USB right into the converter and everything works great :).

u/Floridian35 · 2 pointsr/RTLSDR

Im also wondering if it was the cat5 since I am using PoE. I’ll have to acquire STP type cable to reduce noise.

https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Waterproof-Ethernet-Direct-Shielded/dp/B002HFEBYM

u/Pyro_drummer · 2 pointsr/4chan

Buy a cheap ass-router and one of these and use it to stream porn on you're phone.

u/nerddtvg · 2 pointsr/telecom
u/krakenant · 2 pointsr/Network

The way people use spaces changes, especially in a high growth rate thing like a startup. Moving around furniture will absolutely be a thing. I would design this expecting to have to move everything in a year.

A 4 gang box on the desk, with a f-f RJ45 Coupler keystone to a pre-made patch cable, running to a 24 port switch, with that 24 port switch home run back to the head end via armored fiber jumper. That saves you from having to custom make hundreds of cables. You should be able to get really close to the right size pre-made cables to reach from the switch to each SMB.

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-41089-4WP-QuickPort-Surface-Housing/dp/B002FYB0L2/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=4+port+surface+mount+box&qid=1568403900&s=gateway&sr=8-2

https://www.amazon.com/Listed-VCE-25-Pack-Keystone-Coupler-Black/dp/B075ZPGV1H/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=rj45+keystone&qid=1568403954&s=gateway&sr=8-6

u/mishugashu · 2 pointsr/Steam

http://www.amazon.com/Cat5e-1000ft-Ethernet-Cable-White/dp/B004PL082U

The only reason "WiFi is all you can do" is a valid excuse is if you're stealing it from your neighbours. Otherwise, jack up, bud. You can make a cable long enough.

u/MISFITofMAGIC · 2 pointsr/homelab

I'm not sure what ends you are using but it could help. I just made my first ever cables last night using these the little guide is a saving grace with my solid core cat6.

I also have the tester that Amazon drops into the "recommended purchase" it works enough to tell me my ends were good.

I used T568B on both ends of the cable and had no issues. I'd personally pick A or B but don't mix that sounds confusing.

u/FantasticPhenom · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

get a punchdown tool then and make sure your faceplate can accomadate however many jacks your want.

or get jacks like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Intellinet-Female-CAT-6-Keystone-Coupler/dp/B002JP92K8

fulldisclosure, I haven't tried any.

u/Rath1on · 2 pointsr/ChivalryGame
u/benbrockn · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

You could even do this with a cheap option but way more effective option -> an unmanaged 5-port switch like this one from D-Link for only $15, and buy a 5-pack of 5ft Cat6 ethernet cables like this one from Cable Matters for only $11. This would be plug-in-play (minus configuring static IPs on your PCs). Only having the switch assumes you don't need the Internet.

If you need the Internet (and/or don't want to setup static IPs on your PCs), go for a cheap wireless home router like this one from D-Link for $30.

u/ew_dorky_gilbert · 2 pointsr/UVA

I'm not sure how much they charge these days but here's one for under $6.

u/sarge-m · 2 pointsr/homelab

Something like this. You may need two. It’ll allow you to mount it in your panel, then you can run patch cables to wherever your router/modem will be.

Edit: the one you linked can also work, haven’t personally used that type in a panel.

u/austin12block · 2 pointsr/buildapc

That's a no name brand. Get Monoprice, Mediabridge, Cable Matters, etc.
Here's a good example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007NZHQDY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_41xXDb77XMAQ2

Cat7 is not a real standard. Cat6 will work fine for gigabit.

u/Ayzou · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Assuming you're not gonna be running the cable right next to a power line or anything else that will cause EMI, any Ethernet cable will do the job. I'd just go with some cheap cat5e cable. You'll get Gigabit speeds, it's cheap. Just pick a color that suits your home and staple it down.
New 1,000 ft bulk Cat5e Ethernet Cable / Wire UTP Pull Box 1,000ft Cat-5e Waterproof Outdoor / Direct Burial / Underground ~ VIVO (CABLE-V003) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0092TJ4K2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_p-PRAbWNNX603

u/xb4r7x · 2 pointsr/cablefail

This should do ya...

u/The_Cave_Troll · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Even better (especially if you need 6+ feet of ethernet cable, a brick and mortar store sells 6 feet sections for $20, and if you need 30+ feet, you're SOL because there's no cheap way to join the cables and expensive to buy), order the ethernet cable from Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-Network-Ethernet-Office-Product/dp/B000V0IE6G). I don't think you'll quite need 100ft, but it's only $9 with free shipping!

u/CrowSSLT1 · 2 pointsr/DestinyTheGame
u/oldepharte · 2 pointsr/hometheater

Other possible alternatives:

https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Junction-Punch-listed/dp/B0059DRCGI

https://www.amazon.com/MANHATTAN-Modular-Inline-Coupler-504768/dp/B002HMTSK2

https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-CAT5E-Junction-listed/dp/B0059DRC3G

I'm surprised the Cat 6 one (the first one) is the least expensive, of course that would also work for Cat5/5E.

u/Waubtrash · 2 pointsr/CanadianHardwareSwap

Cat 6 Ethernet Cable 50ft White (at a Cat5e Price but Higher Bandwidth) Flat Internet Network Cables - Cat6 Ethernet Patch Cable - Cat6 Computer LAN Cable Short with Snagless RJ45 Connectors https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B017P34WZI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9EgXCbPQMN1R2

15 dollars on amazon for a 50 foot cat 6 .

Alternatively you could go with a Powerline adapter



D-LINK PowerLine AV2 1000 Gigabit Network Kit, incl. 2 Adapters (DHP-601AV) (Renewed) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07HYFRHMD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9FgXCbFTSY6FD

Which would get you more consistent/higher speeds then wifi

Just a thought if you hadn’t considered

Cheers

u/sameeboy · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Running an ethernet cable through your house could be a cheaper and simpler than another modem, and faster (internet speed wise) than wireless or a powerline adapter. Even long cables are very cheap on amazon

u/Sheylan · 2 pointsr/techsupport

The ethernet port is already attached to your network? If you plug a short cable from it into your computer you can connect to the internet?

If so, just... get a longer cable?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003RCI5A0/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1518714083&sr=8-11&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ethernet+cable+100+ft

There's a 100 foot option, the Cat5e "spec" calls for being able to transmit across a 100 meter (328 feet) cable run, but that's the minimum. You can probably get substantially further than that, though performance may degrade.


Using a 2nd router will provide worse performance, cost more money, and significantly complicate setup.

u/LizardOfTruth · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Sorry for the late response, but this is easily the best wireless connection ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)

u/loyalninjarer · 2 pointsr/Vive

The below combination works to extend where your vive plugs in by 50 ft with no added latency (i use it). I'm not sure if the 100 ft would work as well.

Cat6 Snagless Ethernet Patch Cable in Black 50 Feet

IOGEAR USB 2.0 4-Port 164' USB Extender Over

Monoprice 50 ft Luxe Series CL3 Active High Speed Premium HDMI Cable

Edit: Total price is just over $100

u/tangobravoyankee · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Crimper: I bought the Ubigear Premium568 kit, happy with everything in it except the RJ45 ends. Same crimper also comes in the cheaper 568R kit but I needed the other tools in the Premium568.

Bulk cable: Avoid CCA! Now, this may sound a bit controversial... but I bought a spool of Monster CAT6. It's the cheapest bulk solid copper on Amazon w/ Prime, has the divider for the pairs, is 550MHz rated, and has distance labels. It doesn't come in a pull box -- I use a broom handle and jackstands. Great stuff, I've used 400' so far!

Ends: Went with Monoprice 7266 ends w/ inserts and have yet to miss a crimp. With these you line everything up in the insert, trim, then jam it in the plug and crimp. Works with a standard crimper and costs about the same as regular plugs. I looked at the pass-thru style plugs but these seem easier to me.

u/kn33 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You can go through the ceiling of a basement (finished, drop ceiling) or along the top of a basement (unfinished) or along the bottom of an attic. I also have a wire snake to pull them through the walls to go up and down. So you cut a hole for the plate, then either drop the cable snake down the wall from the attic to the hole or from the basement to the hole and tape the end of the cable on and pull it through. Then pull it to wherever your [punchdown panel]/[switch]/[router] is and either make an end and plug it in or punch it in to your punchdown panel. On the other end you punch down the jack and screw it in and you're set.

Supplies:
Cat5e or Cat6 cable
Keystone Jack
Wallplate
Low Voltage electric box
RJ45 Ends

If you are interested, I can write a more detailed guide and a tools/optional supplies list later.

u/Veritas413 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

The specifications for Ethernet is 90 meters (295ft)max. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category_6_cable#Maximum_length)
This gives room for 5 meters on either end to connect the plugs on the wall to the plugs on the destination. If you're running it underground, get yourself some cable rated for direct burial, like this: http://amzn.com/B002HFEBYM <-- That would get you 100 feet of gigabit Ethernet underground and outside. That's 1000mbps. Happy day. You're good.
Just to be safe, and because it's so cheap, you might get some PVC conduit and run it in that, just to make sure that it doesn't accidentally get sliced.

u/ricky1030 · 2 pointsr/AlienBlue

How long until you can buy another? Or you should just buy a 100 ft Ethernet cable

u/aziridine86 · 1 pointr/hardware

If I was going to do this and didn't know how to terminate Ethernet cables and didn't have a big budget, I would get one of these plus two of these.

Put one surge protector at each end of the outdoor cable, and make sure the bolt hole in each surge protector is connected to an electrical ground with a good copper cable.

But it depends if you need something that is going to last a few months or if you need it to last multiple years.

u/CynicallySane · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

Well this stuff is CCA and not ideal, but for what you're doing it should work fine:
Cat5e: https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Waterproof-Outdoor-VIVO-CABLE-V011/dp/B00GYGNCPO/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1485195798&sr=8-15&keywords=cat5e+waterproof

Cat6: https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Ethernet-Waterproof-Direct-Underground/dp/B00GYGQ31E/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485195187&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=cate5+500ft

Anything that is bury-ready should last quite a while as long as you don't accidentally cut it with yard care equipment. Think aerator or something similar.

edit: added cat5e/6 options

u/danpage617 · 1 pointr/homelab

You're looking for keystone jacks instead of punchdown termination.

Every keystone jack panel I could find on amazon & ebay was grossly overpriced, so I bought a blank keystone panel (probably cheaper brands, but I like Tripp Lite) and a pack of keystone jacks.

$45~ all in, didn't have to buy crimpers and tips, and saved time and hassle.

The punchdown panels are more for if you have a 1000ft spool of Cat5 and you're terminating your own cables.

u/TyroneTheWhiteWIzard · 1 pointr/buildapc

Ok if you need this build now then what I suggested will do very good, the only reason to spend more time would be to drop the price by a few dollars, but you can get away with this one.

[Here is the switch I used] (http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-SG1005D-1000Mbps-Gigabit-Capacity/dp/B000N99BBC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404190845&sr=8-1&keywords=ethernet+switch+10%2F100%2F1000)

And [Here is an alright 100 ft cord] (http://www.amazon.com/Patch-Ethernet-Network-Cable-White/dp/B000TYR5R8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404190880&sr=8-1&keywords=ethernet+cord+100ft)

And I am guessing you really don't need 100 ft, so [here is a good 50ft one for less] (http://www.amazon.com/Cat5e-Network-Ethernet-Cable-Blue/dp/B000QZ001I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1404190921&sr=8-2&keywords=ethernet+cord+50ft)

Also you need ethernet cords to connect to your PC so here is [A 7ft cord, overkill, but just in case] (http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-7-Feet-CAT5e-Snagless-Patch/dp/B00000J1V5/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1404190985&sr=8-2&keywords=ethernet+cable+5ft)

Cheapest route = $25

Expensive Route= $30

This will provide much faster internet speeds, and after you set it up, much less trouble keeping it running.

Internet speed decreases the further it goes in wireless, and it decreases even more when it goes through objects, like walls and furniture.

Also, if there is a microwave in the way, like there is for me, it decreases much more when the microwave is on, as the microwaves mess with the signal.

Wired, it decreases slightly for longer cords, so get it as short as possible, but it still keeps most of it's strength.

My computer in my gaming room wireless can't connect to the internet most of the time, and when it can, the download speed is in the kilobytes.

When it is 10ft from my modem wireless, it gets 25mbs download.

When it is connected via ethernet, it gets around 55 to 65mbs download, it is much faster...

u/Magnetic_Tree · 1 pointr/buildapc

A hundred bucks for a wifi adapter??

Sheesh, might as well just buy a few thousand feet of ethernet cable

u/Goonies_neversay_die · 1 pointr/PS4
u/onryo · 1 pointr/cableporn

Go grab a small patch panel and patch those data runs in properly. Crimping RJs directly only solid copper isn't a bed practice and can give you some headaches down the road.

u/gusgizmo · 1 pointr/networking

This is the best kind of cable to use, it should make it to ten years lifespan directly exposed to the weather:

http://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Cat-5e-Waterproof-Outdoor-Direct/dp/B0092TJ4K2/ref=pd_cp_pc_3

Something else not mentioned is using more cable to relocate your radios. Should be able to hit 150' no problem with the ubiquiti power injectors.

u/samuraiwarrior__13 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

This cable is meant for the outside: https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Waterproof-Ethernet-Direct-Shielded/dp/B001B6DM52?th=1

You can run the cable on the outside of your house if you want.

u/THEMCV · 1 pointr/computertechs

Okay, thanks.

If there wasn't available power in the campground, would this PoE injector, This AP, and this Cat5 work as my solution?

u/proBizcus · 1 pointr/techsupport

You can run Cat5e outside for a little bit without issue. If you are going too far you might want to consider getting some conduit. I'm not sure how far you're talking but I'm guessing you're not putting it too far away. I'm sure you can either find a existing hole near where you want to put it, or you can drill through the wall. If you REALLY don't want to do it you can get it appraised from an electrician or something.
https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Waterproof-Ethernet-Direct-Shielded/dp/B001B6DM52/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1510721635&sr=1-6&keywords=outdoor+cat5

u/LoosingInterest · 1 pointr/buildapc

Unless you’re wanting 10Gbps or more, Cat7 is pretty pointless. However, some exterior Cat6 could be cheaper and more durable (although that cable you link to is really cheap). There is plenty of exterior-grade cable floating around, but if you want pre-wired ethernet connector, Amazon has a few options, like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Waterproof-Ethernet-Direct-Shielded/dp/B002HFEBYM which is actually more expensive than the “Cat7” you link to above (I put that in “” because knowing the Cat7 specs, that cable looks like it wouldn’t meet them...however, looks can be deceiving).

I’ve done a number of exterior ethernet cabling jobs and provided the cable is rated for exterior use it should do the job. When runing the cable try avoid proximity to AC power, high-current switching (AC units, electric hot water systems etc) and try find somewhere out of the sun (UV kills the shielding regardless of how it is rated). The heat/cold wont be a big problem unless we’re talking arctic-low or Sahara-high temps. Also, avoid sharp bends etc; most Cat5/6 is supposed to be run with minimum 20cm/8in bend radius. Cat7 is usually much stiffer (and requires earthing the insulator too) and has a minimum bend radius of 30cm/12in (IIRC). Securing the cable should be done with exterior-quality fasteners which wont pinch or crash the cable; don’t make the fasteners too tight or is will pinch in cold weather.

My main concern with that Cat7 you linked to is that it is bent up like a pretzel and that is REALLY bad for Cat7. In fact “real” Cat7 would be completely ruined bending it like that. From my experience, it looks a little “too good” to be true. A 100ft Cat6 exterior cable pre-terminated with RJ45s, should go for about USD$0.50-0.75 per foot for a good quality commercial cable. If you buy a roll of Cat6 exterior cable and some RJ45 crimps, you can drive the $$/ft down, but you’ll end up with a LOT of left-over cable. Most rolls start at 800-1000ft. Last of all, if you run a conduit, you can use plain-old interior cable. Same rules for routing around AC lines etc, but might be cheaper.

u/A_Water_Fountain · 1 pointr/techsupport

Something like this, provided that only jacks on your unit are active. Grab their router and plug it in, make sure that they are on different channels to prevent interference.

If the router is capable of a 'guest' network, it will allow you to effectively have two separate wireless networks, though I am unsure of the security.

u/Lampshader · 1 pointr/AskEngineers

If you're running a 100Mb/s network, you can actually run two devices at full speed over one cat5(+) cable, as the network connection only uses 4 wires, but the cable contains 8. (You can't do this with gigabit ethernet, it uses all 8 wires)

I found this on Amazon, there are bound to be other places you can get similar. Stick one in your room, and one at your router (you need two connections to the router with this method). Ignore the negative reviews, they are from people who can't follow the simple instructions in my previous sentence.

All the benefits of running 2 separate cables to your room, without the hassle of actually running 2 cables.

u/xgnarf · 1 pointr/homelab

He has keystones that use rj45 connections in the back like this one

u/PsykoTiger · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Get a flat cable, if it fits under the door.

Cat 6 Ethernet Cable 50ft White (at a Cat5e Price but Higher Bandwidth) Flat Internet Network Cables - Cat6 Ethernet Patch Cable - Cat6 Computer LAN Cable Short with Snagless RJ45 Connectors https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B017P34WZI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9GfrDbGFHMYS9

u/hurpasaurus · 1 pointr/techsupport

http://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Waterproof-Ethernet-Direct-Shielded/dp/B002HFEBYM

Yes if you plan to run a cable outdoors at all you must have a surge protector on it or risk damaging your equipment.

u/HittmanLevi · 1 pointr/techsupport

so for only $2 I can just get this instead of this?

u/LiftTechSparky · 1 pointr/electricians

I will use toughcable, (yea a bit stiff) but have never committed to the pricetag of the box of 100 connectors for $50. I use these, inside and out. The pre-guide is nice after figuring the trick on inserting with the wires cut at a diagonal. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005E2Y6BS/

Shielded connector is not normally in my projects, though I do not discard the ESD drain wire either. I will keep the ground long and slide it in with the RJ45. Not great, but has worked fine for me.

On my outdoor, I usually use this compound and a boot if space allows. https://www.amazon.com/Dow-Corning-Electrical-Insulating-Compound/dp/B001VXSAI4/

u/hgpot · 1 pointr/homelab

That looks like one of those old legacy punchdown style patch panels? What is the point of using those things compare to a regular RJ45 on both ends?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005E2YCNA + https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075ZPGV1H/

u/i_lack_imagination · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

> Oh I see so I should just wire it to the top location and add a switch instead of having both locations wired?

No, the switch isn't necessary unless you plan on having multiple devices in that specific location connected at the same time. Since what you are actually doing is just trying to connect the TV but want an option to connect it depending on where it's placed, you could have both locations wired, that would be better than the switch, but also not necessary.

From another comment you made, it seems like you plan on using the lower location first, and then the higher location afterward as you plan to mount the TV later. It also seems like you already have the wiring run, but you are open to the idea of having an additional wire ran, is that the case? If the wiring is already run, does that mean it's not long enough to reach to the top location? Is your server room in your basement going to be finished with drywall or unfinished? Is it directly below this area pictured? Depending on the answers to these questions, it changes the options available.

Since the way you intend to use this is that it's not just a simple one or the other, but actually both just at different times (lower first and upper later), if the wiring is already run and it's not long enough to reach the upper location, you could just add a shorter cat6 run through the conduit and use a coupler to combine the cat6 lines together when you end up mounting the TV up high. (Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Intellinet-Female-CAT-6-Keystone-Coupler/dp/B002JP92K8 ) Also if your low voltage contractor is still involved, if they just terminate that end at the bottom with a cat6 keystone (basically just a wall jack), then you don't even need the coupler. You could just use a standard cat6 patch cable of enough length and feed it through the conduit and plug it into the keystone, just shove the keystone into the box behind the wall cover plate.

u/WutangCND · 1 pointr/bapcsalescanada

I found This

u/FlightyGuy · 1 pointr/homelab

Those are total garbage! If you're not using one of these https://www.amazon.com/3m-Audioquest-Diamond-Ethernet-Cable/dp/B0073HI94M

well... your just serious about homelabs, are you?

u/tilldrop · 1 pointr/DJs

The (expensive) hardware solution with Serato: Get a Rane SL 2,3 or 4 interface. That will allow you use the CDJ2000s like some bigger sized DDJ platters/controllers with Serato.

The (free, but maybe time intensive) software solution with Rekordbox: Download Rekordbox, reorganize your library in Rekordbox (this might help) and either

u/codenamegamma · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

well i need to make sure theres enough clearance for any traffic, its a personal driveway but still id hate for someone to run into it and put tons of force destroy the cable, or equipment. as far as cable, i was thinking of using something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Waterproof-Ethernet-Direct-Shielded/dp/B001B6DM52/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497205103&sr=8-2&keywords=outdoor+ethernet the distance i have to do is 30ft, and if it was buried it then id use at max like 35ft of cable, but if im stringing it across the 2 buildings then id probably go for a longer 100ft and if im at it and it's cheap enough run 2 at the same time. plus i've never used fiber before so im a bit lost.

u/unfadingpyro · 1 pointr/homelab

For Cat 6 outdoor I've used this brand: VIVO Black 500 ft Cat6 Ethernet Cable 23 AWG/Wire 500ft Cat-6 Waterproof Outdoor/Direct Burial/Underground (CABLE-V012) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GYGQ31E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dSzZCb1DS5JQR

Really good quality cable. True Cable on amazon also seems to be a good quality, but I've not used it personally.

Patch panel I have: [UL Listed] Cable Matters Rackmount or Wallmount 24 Port Cat6 Patch Panel (Cat 6 RJ45 Patch Panel) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0072K1OWY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IUzZCbMJ3VPYZ

u/Lord_Emperor · 1 pointr/bapcsalescanada

Can you imagine a KALLAX with the front of the Carbide Air 240 in a shelf? That pretty much covers it. If I pulled it out for additional pics all you'd see is the three cables.

It's not a powerful PC either, just an Athlon x4 860K and Geforce 750Ti.

u/PriceKnight · 1 pointr/bapcsalescanada

Price History


u/Aelar_Nailo · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I guess? Considering how much ground you can cover with it, it is really good value. 1000 ft will do several houses, for most people:https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Wall-Rated-Ethernet/dp/B0049KV52E/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1488041471&sr=8-3&keywords=cat6+bulk+cable+1000ft So it may not be as bad as you think.

u/Subrotow · 1 pointr/buildapc

When I installed it in my uncle's house I did do it myself. It was expensive.

  • Edgerouter X - $67
  • UAP-AC-Pro - $128 (Bought 3 of these but it doesn't count for this calculation)
  • Cat6 Cable (1000ft In Wall) - $150
  • RJ45 Connectors - $9 (Didn't need this many but it's a lot more expensive if you buy less)
  • Network Tool Kit - $60

    Total: $414

    You're right about the tools but once you get Cat6 wired up in your house when would you need to do it again? I don't think Cat6 is going away anytime soon.
u/eegras · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Wireless is no good for gaming. This will work better.

u/JCrew7384 · 1 pointr/smarthome

Bought this one from amazon. Cat 5e. I plan to run it through walls as well as outside along my siding, maybe slightly underground. Will this work for an outdoor POE security system? Do I need higher transmission rates of Cat6 or maybe different cable for heat generation?

VIVO New 1,000 ft bulk Cat5e Ethernet Cable/Wire UTP Pull Box 1,000ft Cat-5e Waterproof Outdoor/Direct Burial/Underground (CABLE-V003) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0092TJ4K2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ANQNBbQX0V2DQ

u/vote100binary · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Also, I dunno the physical situation you're dealing with, but these are preterminated cables. Assuming you can fit the head through the walls to get wherever you need them, you could just do that...

https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Waterproof-Ethernet-Direct-Shielded/dp/B002HFEBYM/

u/blaxsnake · 1 pointr/vmware

I have old server with old esxi version (I think 5 or older) and the same modem was plugged into that server directly without the need of using extra converter etc .. it was done by previous guy who handle the setup last time and uncontactable so we can't ask him how he did that .. so conclusion I must buy the box am I right? Can I confirm that converter, one end is rs232 serial (male/female) then the other end is rj45 port (not cable)..
Bcos this aftnoon I tried to find but mostly seller only sells this kind of cable

https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Serial-Ethernet-Rollover-Console/dp/B00979DMSM

Which I currently have it also and all this time I use it to console Cisco switch etc

Is it the same thing?
Do u have any contact no (WhatsApp etc) that I can reach you to discuss further cos I need this modem to be detected thank you

u/EnterpriseOnion · 1 pointr/homelab

Thanks! Do you have a link? I found this VIVO Black 1,000ft Bulk Cat5e, CCA Ethernet Cable, 24 AWG, UTP Pull Box | Cat-5e Wire, Waterproof, Outdoor, Direct Burial (CABLE-V003) but don't believe that's it. And let alone I do not want that gell flooded mess. It's awful.

u/binarycow · 1 pointr/networking

You could use one of these but you'll lose gigabit speeds, and drop down to 100Mbps max. You need one on both ends.

Alternatively, depending on how your ISP's equipment is set up, you could connect a managed switch and configure VLANs. This won't work if your ISP's equipment is set up to have only untagged ports.

u/TruthPaste · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

Like others have said, it is pretty hard to brick an EdgeRouter. The ERL has a serial console port on the front where you can access the command line to fix issues and see the boot sequence. You just need one of these.

u/chewythecat · 1 pointr/buildapc

One person can plug-in and you could bridge the connection over wireless I believe. Only downside is that you would need both computers to be there, but you wouldnt have to buy anything assuming both laptops have built-in wireless

Or just one of these guys

u/donkeypunshhh · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I'm thick headed, so direct burial should NOT be used if I plan to run it from two poles zip tied to a phone line? Like this:
Vivo 500 ft Cat6 Outdoor Ethernet Cable Waterproof, Direct Burial, Underground - (CABLE-V012) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GYGQ31E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kEoqybYSGQSZT

u/iNeedAValidUserName · 1 pointr/pics

TL;DR to have the cable in the wall and have that nice ethernet jack at your desk, instead of a cat5 cable coming out.

---
It also makes it easier to change what people are connected to in the actual server room, so if they need PoE you don't have to either move your switch or get a longer cable to run through the ceiling if you suddenly need 5 more feet. (well, you need a new cable, but you just have to change 5 feet instead of 150 feet)

Same for the office layout, john doe moved out of the office and joe schmoe moved in, joe schmoe wants his desk in the southwest corner instead of the southeast corner, that's 10 extra feet of cable! fuck.

Well, we can still use the same jack now, but use a premade cable to route it around the office, instead of around the whole building.

While the patch panel is an additional point of failure, it doesn't move so once it's in it SHOULDN'T break, a really long ethernet cable that you move all the time is much more likely to break. The cables you buy for this are also different (more firm, less bendy) from the cable consumers typically think of (patch cable)

There's some other advantages, but those are the big ones that and the fact that bulk cable is a hell of a lot cheaper especially once you get to the longer runs it's hard to find premade cables that are 200+ft.

u/Roquemore92 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking
u/PhaseStryfe · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

The only cables I can recommend. Get 10 of them for the length you need. /s

For reals though take a look here Monoprice is great on the price and quality. Plus you can get any colors you want.

If you want to get a custom length the tools can be had for pretty cheap along with the bulk cable and connectors. I make new cables fairly regularly but i have a toddler and two stupid dogs that like to break them.

u/manarius5 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

The way phone works is that one line in can feed all the other connected lines. Ethernet doesn't work that way. Ethernet is a point to point connection; so there must be one device on each end of the plug.

You would need purchase something like this to put inside the communication box. You would reterminate all the Cat5e wires that are inside the communication box into the patch panel. Then you'd need to check the wall outlets to make sure they're wired the same way. Then you could put a switch or whatever inside the communication box to use them as ethernet ports.

u/ShiroeKurogeri · 1 pointr/Rainbow6
u/ftasatguy · 1 pointr/hometheater

I'm going to disagree with some of the other commenters here. I would first try using something like one of these Cat6 Junction Boxes:

https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Junction-Punch-listed/dp/B0059DRCGI

It is only $6.25 and if it works then you have solved the problem. Sure you can be pedantic and insist that there's only one right way to do something, but when that "right" way could cost hundreds of dollars (if you hire someone to do the job) and/or damage your home, and the relatively simple alternative only costs a few bucks, I'd at least try the alternative first and see if it works. At worst you have wasted a few bucks and at best you have solved your problem.

The thing to remember about ethernet is that it is digital, so generally speaking it either works or it doesn't. I'd definitely try a ping test to another system on your local network and make sure you have zero packet loss, but if that's the case then I would not worry that my solution doesn't meet the standards of the perfectionists (who must have big wallets if they can so quickly dismiss a simple solution). I do not disagree that a continuous run of new cable would be "better", all else being equal, but if you balk at tearing up your drywall, as I certainly would in your situation, then maybe give one of these junction boxes a try.

u/GuideMe1232 · 1 pointr/hometheater

thanks, I was thinking about doing something similar to this.

im thinking about using one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Junction-Punch-listed/dp/B0059DRCGI/

the only question is, will it be ok if I have a cat5e cable on one side and a cat6 cable on the other side?

Thanks

u/austinanimal · 1 pointr/hardware

Something like this?

u/ToughConversation · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I'm going to assume that this was/is a relatively easy run... get something for $10-15 off amazon. Monoprice works as well. Avoid CCA (copper clad aluminum) and go for pure copper if it's anything that'll be hard to install. Cat5e is OK but I'd suggest spending the couple of cents more for Cat6. If you're going to run electricity through it (PoE) go for a standard full sized cable. If you want to conceal it in plain sight and aren't using PoE, then thin cables are probably fine.

This is $15 and seems to check most of the boxes. https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Ethernet-Cable-100-Feet/dp/B003RCI5A0/

This is CCA at 10.50. Good enough if you don't want/need it to last 20 years. https://www.amazon.com/100FT-Networking-Ethernet-Patch-Router/dp/B01G0LUS90/

u/Blaze17145 · 1 pointr/techsupport
u/Shiroi_Kage · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

EDIT: Not sure what the NICs are, but I pushed 1Gb/s through them before so I know they can handle the traffic.

> I'd also verify your terminations

They turned out to be the problem. I'm used to using these, which come with a little comb-like insert that produces extremely tight terminations, like these ones, and allows me to keep the wires as short as possible. I made tens of cables using those and Cat6 cables, and had no problems with Gigabit traffic over tens of meters. The ones I'm currently using, which don't have the load bars, combined with the crimper meant I needed to apply much more pressure to make sure things are tight.

u/henry82 · 1 pointr/DIY

have a look on youtube, it's not hard at all. I'd be inclined to use the keystones suggested above (link)

u/MongoBeef · 1 pointr/GrandTheftAutoV

I think its around $25-$30.

Edit: amazon says $22

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000V0IE6G

u/A_Green_Olive · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Honestly, I've been in need of a very long Ethernet cable due to the wi-fi in my room being incredibly spotty and slow, mainly due to bandwidth being split among several of my sisters' devices.


Full "Needs" wishlist: http://amzn.com/w/342Z45FF2MYKJ

u/bitanalyst · 0 pointsr/homedefense

You might as well get a decent gigabit ethernet switch. Netgear makes a really nice managed POE switch for $150.

http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-GS110TP-Gigabit-GS110TP-200NAS/dp/B00LW9A328

Pretty much any cat6 cable will do. If you have an rj45 crimping tool you can cut the cables to the exact length that you require and terminate the ends. Otherwise just buy preterminated cables.

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Snagless-Ethernet-Patch/dp/B007NZHQDY

u/xlowrimore · 0 pointsr/techsupport

A coax line would not work, because it cannot be used in place if an Ethernet line. A cable modem (which is the only device that will except a Coax, requires a CMTS (Cable Modem Termination System) in order for it to function. CMTS's are thousands of dollars. You could use an Ethernet over power, which is the power line adapter you are talking about. The only issue, an especially with old houses, the wiring is done in sections. Which is why you have circuit breakers for turning off parts of the house, without needing to turn the whole house off. In other words, you wont be successful with the Power Line Adapter, because your room is most likely in a different section of the house, than the modem. Also, appliances that use large amounts of energy, such as washers, dryers, microwaves and fridges can cause your latency to spike up into the 4000ms (You can see how Ethernet over Power didn't really catch on).

Your best option, is buying a 350 ft of CAT 5 Cable, and fishing it up to your room. This will require Crimpers and CAT 5 ender and cable tester. This will cost you about $50 dollars, and it's really easy to do. Here is a Guide



Edit: Never heard of MoCA adapter's apparently that works too

u/VERBALMENACE · -1 pointsr/answers

Rj45 Splitter

You will only get half the speed of the connected port.

Something like this, https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-37133-Splitter-Combiner/dp/B000Q5UMEI

u/karjune01 · -2 pointsr/networking

I'm sorry. I meant to type 4P copper cables. And not an electrical junction box but this:

https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Junction-Punch-listed/dp/B0059DRCGI