(Part 2) Best exterior car care products according to redditors
We found 2,600 Reddit comments discussing the best exterior car care products. We ranked the 655 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
I would have taken more photos but I didn't set out with the intention of making a post; however, when I saw the results I knew I had to.
Like I said, this mini van only set me back $300. But just because it's a cheap turd doesn't mean you can't take some pride in it and at least put a ribbon on it.
Anyways, I'll add some more details left out of the post.
First I mixed up regular ole dish soap and water and grabbed some 1000 grit wet/dry sand paper, dunked it in the solution and let it soak while I taped off my headlights. I don't think you have to let it soak, but that's what I did. Once I finished taping off the lights, I started wet sanding and just redunked as needed for adequate lubrication.
Now I've read some posts on here about people saying it's easier to see when you're done sanding if you go in one direction for a certain grit and the opposite in another so you can see sanding lines. I didn't do that either. I just sanded it til I felt it was smooth and/or had been doing it for a couple minutes; up, down, left, right, circles. Whatever. It worked out for me.
Repeat exact same procedure for 2000 grit wet/dry sand paper.
Now, if you've never done this before you might start to get nervous, because at this stage your headlights look (somehow) even worse than when you started. Fret not my friend. Patience is a virtue.
Now I have a DA polisher, but these headlights are narrow. So I opted at just purchasing a generic named 3" backing plate, drill adapter and pad combo set off amazon. Some of the reviews said it wasn't the greatest. But that was fine by me. I just wanted them for this headlight. Those reviewers are wrong. I think they were thinking you could do an entire vehicle with these 3" pads. The pads and backing plate were high quality and for that price, even if they weren't I wouldn't have been all that upset. I highly recommend these.
I used the two flat top oranges pads for this project. First I used M105. Polished til it "flashed" then buffed it off with a microfiber towel. Switched to my other orange pad and polished with M205 following the same procedure.
Then I stood in awe of how great they came out. Did a wipe down with isopropyl alcohol, and two coats of collinite 845 that I applied with some cheap microfiber applicators for future uv protection.
Then I went and excitedly rushed my girlfriend outside to see. She was impressed but decidedly less than me.
Also, while I was doing this, a man approached me and asked me how much I'd charge to do his car. I talked with him a bit, and informed him that for the price I would charge to do his one car he'd be better off doing some research, buying his own supplies and just learning a new skill. He thought about it and excitedly told me he already had a drill and that he decided he'd do it. He went on to say he was also going to do not just his car, but also his mom's car and his girlfriend's car. He wrote down everything I said! Haha,I hope his come out as well as mine!
Edit: formatting/spelling
There pricing is very good, especially on gear with the return policy you receive. Part pricing is still good, especially if you make the free shipping on the smaller moto-specific items like chain lube, etc. Beats Amazon's price by several $$.
Maxima Chain Wax
Amazon - $14
RevZilla - $11.50
Not to mention I have to pay tax on items sold by Amazon which really sours the deal.
Every product you bought you returned? Every product was $50-$100 less when you bought it somewhere else? Why did you keep buying from RevZilla and keep returning their items? Why didn't you do research before you bought it?
You'll need the proper equipment. Hopefully you already have a buffer and compound?
PM me and we can dig into the details, if you aren't familiar with the polishing process.
Definitely check out /r/AutoDetailing where I learned my method.
The way I do it:
Equipment:
Washing:
Rinseless washing is great when your car is mildly to semi-dirty. This means if it's mostly just dust on your car this is great. Otherwise if it's caked with mud this won't work. You'll have to go somewhere to hose your car off with water first so it's not as dirty.
Clay Bar/Nanoskin:
Note: This is only necessary if there are actually micro-contaminants. I would do it on a new car regardless since it has been sitting on a lot. On a normal basis you only need to do when your car doesn't feel glass smooth after a wash. Usually no more than 1-2 times a year.
Sealant/wax:
After you're done with claying your paint is clean so you'll want to put wax/sealant on it to protect it. It'll make your car nice and shiny too.
Start with an isopropyl alcohol wipe. What I do is dunk a towel in the alcohol solution and wipe down every panel and drying after it. You can also just fill another spray bottle with it and spray. This will get rid of oil/wax/sealant so the sealant goes directly on the paint. Then just apply the sealant/wax on following the instructions. With opti-seal you just spray and wipe. With some other items you'll need to apply and wait to cure and buff out any remaining wax/sealant.
For wheels and tires I suggest you just check out the wiki on autodetailing. I just simply wipe off the tires with ONR but ONR isn't the best at getting oil. I'm too lazy though to worry about it too much as long as the wheels look clean it's fine with me.
I'm lazy and do a rinseless wash 1-2 times (usually 1) a month. Some do it weekly. I put sealant on every 3-4 months or so. I've only clayed my current car once so far.
/u/jwinskowski please feel free to PM me at anytime for this. EDIT: if your tank is MATTE don't use products not designed for it! (Shampoo is fine for either)
TLDR rinse bucket and bucket with soap. use auto products. dont drop your MF cloths.
I'm not familiar with Guzzi's clearcoat so ill play towards the cautious side.
Personally I'd pick up a shampoo/conditioner and a basic wash mit thats microfiber made (attracts dirt better and wont mar your question)
(I can recommend 3D pink shampoo. cheap AND I love it)
next up a light compound (you can use meguiars ultimate compound. cheap inexpensive and hard to mess up) this brings out that POP in paint pretty easy to use with a hand applicator which are also cheap :)
next upppp paint polish. this is VERY subjective. I prefer mckees37 stuff but its more expensive than most like. I can also recommend meguiars ultimate polish. good and inexpensive :)
after wards you'll need a wax. meguiars ultimate liquid wax is a great starter and once again inexpensive. (I prefer trademark extender/policoat form mckees37) easy on easy off if you're taking you're time.
afterwards you can call it quits and bam you're done.
or keep going and seal your paint to keep that POP lasting. I HIGHLY recommend collinite 845 as its inexpensive as hell and STUPID easy to apply!!
also Mckees 37 SIO 2 ceramic coating is even easier but $.
then theres coatings. you can use something like Cquarts or even carpro....I personally juse use SIO2 from mckees37 currently. spray on wash off bam. not as effective but beyond stupid easy.
oh and also pick up some microfiber cloths of your choice. theres no right/wrong for them other than DONT DROP EM AND KEEP EM CLEAN.
links to products named
ultimate megs wax
ultimate polish megs
sio 2 coating 10% off ad warning
trademark extender wax spray
3D pink car soap/shampoo
collinite 845
ultimate compound megs
ultimate liquid wax -bigger AG carried
megs ult polish AG carried
Autogeek also price matches to a fair extent! and IF you're local you can pick up. :D
these microfibers are damn nice but $
I personally use these and they're lit. 16 pack and heavy duty enough to last a while
wash mitt I use
even NEW I can highly recommend clay baring your paint dis or the kit if you're new
oh and IF your brake pads literally ooze brake dust....this stuff takes time but takes care of the dust easily linky smells WAY better than carpro even at a lower concentration :p
/u/solitudechirs thanks for the tag
/u/CG_Ops dat wall o text
I took delivery of my 3 in February of this year (also multi-coat red) and did something very similar to what you are doing. I did have full front PPF (XPEL) installed the day after I took delivery, and then I drove the car for 3 months until temps warmed up. I did the following DYI:
A friend of mine bought a White Model 3 and I did these same steps for him in July (he bought all the materials and the beer :) Both cars are looking great.
If you have access to a drill, an eraser wheel is by far the easiest way. Just make sure the surrounding paint is clean to prevent scratches.
This is the one I have, I used it to remove body molding adhesive:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00488DDB8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
>Wash car using 2 bucket method, wash mitt. For soap I am using Meguiars Carnuba Wash
Yep, 2 bucket method and remember to use the right ratio of soap to water. I think that soap is 1oz --> 1 Gallon. I tend to use an old laundry cup and mark the different oz on that cup so that i know i have the right ratios.
>Scrub car with Nanoskin sponge, and a soapy mitt - or should I use ONR - what ratio.
Baggy test the paint but it most cases for a newbie there paint will need a clay/decon. IronX or TriX(Tar and Iron remover) is a nice thing to have but really is a luxury. In the case with what lubrication to use while you nanoskin, I like o just use my soapy water that is at the right ratio and should be clean due to the to bucket wash keeping junk out of the wash bucket. If your using ONR as clay lube the ratio 1:64.
>Rinse car with water
Yep using the flood method. The water should just sheet off and shouldn't leave much behind. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WAmb9DWdnFc
>Dry with ONR 1:16 ratio & Dry Me a River towell - is that a good ratio?
With ONR less is more in most cases. This will leave some behind. If i used ONR as a clay lube then the 1:64 is what i would be using. If i am mixing fresh i would be going 1:128. Reminder to pre-wet your towel wring it out.
>Wax - I was going to use Meguiar's G12718 NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0 I am not sure about this one to be honest. My car is a daily driver, so I want something that will last a long time. Is there something else I should be using? Maybe the Meguiar's ultimate liquid wax instead? https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G18216-Ultimate-Liquid-Wax/dp/B004HCM9H4/
The biggest thing for protection staying is the prepwork. The step alot of people tend to forget is using IPA wipedown after everything as this will give the surface the cleanest, and driest area for the protection to bond to.
The Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax is also Meguiar's Sealant M21. This should get you 3-4 months depending on where the car is kept(inside vs outside 24/7)
The Meguiar's ultimate liquid wax they pushed more for a beading looking because care enthused like that. I think if you have the budget I would get Jescars Powerlock and Collinate 845 look for these on autogeek,autopia-carcare, fav detailing site as they will tend to have deals better than amazon
I would watch https://youtu.be/34GKKyrFrFI?list=PLG_BGdABDC9vWAZVwdmLNAU7J7kwNmJGH and kind of follow it but depending on the level of effort you want to put in.
If your looking to get just one protection product I would get Collinate 845
Any protection truly lasting longer then 6 months is either on a car that isn't exposed to the elements or is a coating. Protection should be reapplied at regular intervals. My daily driver is black, 3 kids and sits outside 24/7 so my interval is 3 months.
Hope this helps and enjoy your detailing path.
That will buff out.
But seriously, it will buff out. It looks like paint transfer.
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10307-ScratchX-2-0-oz/dp/B0002UNON8
A product like this should remove it no problem.
You can buy everything online, though it's easier to go to a harbor freight with a coupon if you have one. There are plenty of polishers you can buy online of course, but none are as cheap (at least with decent quality) as the harbor freight model. You can of course buy a much better polisher at your local lowes / home depot however unless you have a lot more use for it it's probably not worth it over the harbor freight one (a good polisher will cost you $200+). Everything else you can find at any auto parts store, or maybe even walmart.
Here's some links
Basic steps:
You are done! In most environments the duragloss will last 6+ months. If you keep your car protected with it, you won't need to do the cutting/polishing again (or at least, not for a while).
The trickiest part of the whole process is the compounding and polishing. Here are some helpful videos.
And that's about it! It's easier if you don't do touch ups, but I figure if I'm going to put this much work in it, might as well get them. And if you do it right (with careful application and then sanding) the touch ups look nearly flawless (most look terrible because people don't bother to sand them flush).
edit: two other tips...
If you're using the quik wax, you might as well just go get a gallon of Meguiars Synthetic Express Spray Wax. It's a great quick wax, drying aid, door jamb wipe, and you can use it on plastic and rubber without worry as well. Google some videos. I think Auto Fetish has some vids about how useful it can be for off-label uses.
Meguiar's D15601 Synthetic X-Press Spray Wax - 1 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005JPJMI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Z0Uzzb9KMWRYJ
And to your original question-yeah, spray waxes are good for a finishing shine and a bit of temporary protection.
Sure! The two bucket method helps reduce the chance of putting swirls into your paint.
The most common configuration is 2 - 5 gallon buckets with grit guards in the bottom of both of them.
You would use 1 bucket with just plain water for rinsing your wash mitt and the 2nd bucket would be water with soap. You will start by dunking your mitt into the soap bucket, wash a panel on your car, dunk your mitt into the rinse bucket, scrub your mitt against the grit guard, squeeze out any water, and then move back to your soap bucket. Repeat until the car is squeaky clean and swirl-less :)
If you are planning to detail for the long term, I'd suggest investing in some bulk / concentrated products rather than the consumer-grade & Ultimate Meguiar's line.
I've tried to break down the supplies I'd suggest. Of course, don't just throw out your existing supplies. Use them up and then get the concentrates / bulk.
Note: There's no need to get everything in this list. Just get what you need. There's also cheaper alternatives to several of the products, and probably cheaper sites than those in my links. Some of the products I use because I want to support the manufacturer and/or because I trust the manufacturer. Use what you like and use it often. :)
 
Dust, light bug gut, and light bird bomb removal / lube
 
Heavy bug gut and bird bomb removal / light grime removal
 
Wheels & Tires
Cleaning
Drying
Dressing
Protecting
 
Body
Rinseless wash
Two bucket wash
Drying
Protecting
 
Glass
Cleaning
Drying
Protecting
 
Engine
 
Exhaust
 
Paint Prep
 
Paint Correction
My favorite method is an eraser wheel.
As a professional auto detailer, this is what I do to keep the bike looking spiffy with minimal risk of swirling the paint.
First, I use a pressure washer on my bike, it's a 2000 psi washer so no real risk of damage to anything and works great for getting those bugs out of the radiator and tiny little crevices as well as a good majority of the dirt which is just less to grind into the paint when you finally hit it with the ONR (https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NRWW2012Q-Rinse-Wash-Wax/dp/B00GG9FB8U/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1469797720&sr=1-1&keywords=onr). A hose would work also, just not as effective. (If you have the money, go buy yourself a foam cannon with some chemical guys honey dew soap and save yourself some time)
Then I grab 2 buckets with Grit Guards in each. (https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-IAI503-Guard-Insert/dp/B00ABYVTZA/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1469797070&sr=1-1&keywords=grit+guard) and fill one with ONR and the other is a rinse bucket. The washing part is pretty simple. Buy yourself a microfiber wash mitt, dip it in the bucket with ONR and scrub an area of the bike down. Rinse it off and the rinse bucket and repeat until the bike is clean. Pro tip: Do your paint first and other areas that can be easily swirled and work your way to the dirtier areas on the bottom of the bike that are more likely to have the mitt pick up dirt.
I dry the bike with a leaf blower dedicated to detailing (basically one that has never been used in reverse to suck leaves up) to get all the hard to reach places dry. You can also use a standard microfiber drying towel for this.
Once it is dry, I'll hit the chrome with a chrome polish and put a coat of wax on (collinite 845 is my go to, but any mequiers wax is plenty good) and hit the mirrors and headlight with some glass cleaner.
If you have a chain, put some wax on that bad boy since you most likely just washed it all off. I don't put any kind of vinyl or leather protection on the seat because shit is always slippery. I know wheels look nice when they are nice and shinny, but you will eat shit if you put on any kind of wheel shine.
/u/daniell61 is all about that detailing. Here's a recent comment from him
---
do you know if that [bike] is primarily plastic or primarily metal?
for metal polishes (non painted) I can recommend marine 31's metal polish. shit works wonders on oxidized metals!!! (its my go to for non painated)
leather? any car marketed leather cleaner would be fine. I prefer mckees37 or meguiars to be fair.
for plastics I like this. a lot
leahter cleaner here
for learning these microfibers are a good cost effective start and you wont be hurt when they die and you replace them.
I can recommend any mckees37 towels or the rag company microfibers.
this or 3D pink soap (dirt cheap but i love it) is a great soap for washing without stripping waxes!
if you're like me and dont have time to clean...
once you're done. spray this and wash it off and boom bam you're set to go and have a good quality glass silia coating! here
I like mckees products a fair bit ;)
for sake of easy ass waxing I like extender wax but I do also like meguiars quik wax. that stuffs damn cheap but good. sadly its carnuba only :(
---
here's another one
---
TLDR rinse bucket and bucket with soap. use auto products. dont drop your MF cloths.
Personally I'd pick up a shampoo/conditioner and a basic wash mit thats microfiber made (attracts dirt better and wont mar your question)
(I can recommend 3D pink shampoo. cheap AND I love it)
next up a light compound (you can use meguiars ultimate compound. cheap inexpensive and hard to mess up) this brings out that POP in paint pretty easy to use with a hand applicator which are also cheap :)
next upppp paint polish. this is VERY subjective. I prefer mckees37 stuff but its more expensive than most like. I can also recommend meguiars ultimate polish. good and inexpensive :)
after wards you'll need a wax. meguiars ultimate liquid wax is a great starter and once again inexpensive. (I prefer trademark extender/policoat form mckees37) easy on easy off if you're taking you're time.
afterwards you can call it quits and bam you're done.
or keep going and seal your paint to keep that POP lasting. I HIGHLY recommend collinite 845 as its inexpensive as hell and STUPID easy to apply!!
also Mckees 37 SIO 2 ceramic coating is even easier but $.
then theres coatings. you can use something like Cquarts or even carpro....I personally juse use SIO2 from mckees37 currently. spray on wash off bam. not as effective but beyond stupid easy.
oh and also pick up some microfiber cloths of your choice. theres no right/wrong for them other than DONT DROP EM AND KEEP EM CLEAN.
links to products named
ultimate megs wax
ultimate polish megs
sio 2 coating 10% off ad warning
trademark extender wax spray
3D pink car soap/shampoo
collinite 845
ultimate compound megs
ultimate liquid wax -bigger AG carried
megs ult polish AG carried
Autogeek also price matches to a fair extent! and IF you're local you can pick up. :D
these microfibers are damn nice but $
I personally use these and they're lit. 16 pack and heavy duty enough to last a while
wash mitt I use
even NEW I can highly recommend clay baring your paint dis or the kit if you're new
oh and IF your brake pads literally ooze brake dust....this stuff takes time but takes care of the dust easily linky smells WAY better than carpro even at a lower concentration :p
I dunno the science behind it, but I'm pretty sure it loosens the soap/grime easier. It also has a better "barrier", kind of like a lubricant, less contact of your pad/brush/etc on the paint, so there isnt a potential of swirls.
I dunno, its just fun!!
I used Chemical Guys Honeydew Snow Foam
Gave up on wet tumbling and use dry media but ad a cap full of Nu Finish Liquid Car polish.
Brass turns out looking like brand new!
​
https://www.amazon.com/Nu-Finish-Liquid-Car-Polish/dp/B000BPSW7C
Here's all the stuff I use :)
I was also a beginner at the beginning of the year. I went out and bought [Meguiars 105] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B003LMGDHI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496750162&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+105), and [Meguiars 205] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B003LMJP4Q/ref=pd_sim_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003LMJP4Q&pd_rd_r=YK6JBJ416NKY6325PPQG&pd_rd_w=WZ6u4&pd_rd_wg=LD9ed&psc=1&refRID=YK6JBJ416NKY6325PPQG), a [chicago electric DA from harbor freight] (https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-57-Amp-Heavy-Duty-Dual-Action-Variable-Speed-Polisher-62862.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiODkwMjE0MTgiLCJza3UiOiI2Mjg2MiIsImlzIjoiNDkuOTkiLCJwcm9kdWN0X2lk%0D%0AIjoiMTE0NDYifQ%3D%3D%0D%0A), and ordered [orange and white hex logic pads from amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-BUFX-102-HEX5-Hex-Logic-Medium-Heavy/dp/B0040MI9H0/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496750285&sr=1-1&keywords=hex+logic+pads). This will be a good start. Get these things, should cost between 120 and 150 for all of it depending on where you buy, and that DA goes on sale quite often, looks like it's currently down to 49.99, so now would be the time to buy. I started off doing my Formula and then did my Sierra, and now have had a few other people come to me for correction and have a pretty good grasp on what I'm doing.
great looking pens.
​
for sanding insides: wet or dry sandpaper, water, 320 grit up to 1200 grit, lots of time to stand there and sand b/c it's BORING work, and one of these-
https://www.ebay.com/itm/8-Slotted-Mandrel-1-4-Shank-Body-Split-End-Head-Core-Sanding-Internal-Holes-/221323367298
​
and after that a paper towel instead of sandpaper, and plastic polish. Some of us use headlight polisher from the auto parts stores. I like the heavy cut meguiars, and then a light cut meguiars.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003LMGDHI/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_vnNMDb8YZZX2C
Check out a California duster.
California Car Duster 62442 Standard Car Duster with Wooden Handle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00008RW9U/
A few simple ones: No eating in the car. No Drinking in the car. No smoking in the car. Empty all clutter from the car when you leave, everytime.
As far as waxing goes, it depends on the wax you use and where you live. The closer to the equator you live the more you should wax. If you live near salt water you should wash more frequently. I have have good luck with a product called Nu Finish. I apply it about every 4 months, but I live in South Florida. Also, get an orbital buffer. They are cheap and save a LOT of elbow grease when buffing.
Armor-all or another plastic protectant is a must on the interior. Rain-X is nice too but not needed for actual care.
Well clearly they didn't keep polishing it even though it was still being used. Because of that, with gradual use, it started to get more and more scuffed.
Someone tweet this at D-Bro and the game should be good until Season 1 starts.
Rag Company Starter Kit - $30 - Includes wash mitt and other assorted towels needed to get started.
2 buckets from Home Depot - $6
2 Grit Guards - $18
Megs Gold Class Soap - $9
Megs Gold Class Carnauba - $11
einszett Cockpit Premium - $10
Stoner Invisible Glass Cleaner - $4
Chemical Guy's APC - $10
Optibond Tire Gel - $11
Grand Total of $109
There are obviously some nicer products you could get, but this is a great start for a beginner I think.
Actually, this is just from a wash and Chemical Guys Blacklight
About a month ago I did a full detail which included:
All applied with a Porter Cable DA polisher and some high quality Micro Fiber towels
There is also this maybe?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TFE38A/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I5E6ZI9GSIVJ1&colid=1Q82X8ZDJ2P0W
Cquartz is popular, but expensive.
WARNING: The post above is full of referral links.
Here's a copy with all of OP's referral links removed:
CART
PRODUCTS
EQUIPMENT
You certainly can. It's definitely recommended to not join liners if you can possibly help it, but if you do it right the seal will be stronger than the actual liner. Needs to be done on a warm and dry day. Needs to be cleaned thoroughly, and you need to use a roller to make 120% sure that it's all stuck together correctly.
I used to use this product
Wash: https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-Hyper-Wash-Foaming-Leaves-D11001/dp/B0006SH4IM
Clay: https://smile.amazon.com/Nanoskin-AS-019-AutoScrub-Grade-Sponge/dp/B00CUAWJ6G
Decontamination: https://www.autogeek.net/carpro-iron-x-cleaner.html
DA: https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-57-amp-heavy-duty-dual-action-variable-speed-polisher-69924.html
Polish: https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B003LMGDHI
Compound: https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B003LMGDHI
Pads: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B004104678/ref=twister_B00NN89SGI?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Coating and Sealant: https://www.autogeek.net/cquartz-uk-edition.html
Heat the glue with a heat gun, or at the very least use a hair dryer (but that won't be as effective). Once you're able to pull an edge up, keep working your way around with a plastic scraper or dental floss. Don't just start pulling it off with your hands, as you might take some paint with it.
Once the piece is removed and you just have some adhesive left on the body panel, you can use adhesive remover and a lot of elbow grease, or use an eraser pad that has a drill adapter to make quick work of it.
Here are a couple videos that'll help with the use of products.
clay bar
everything clay bar, compound, and polish
As for the products I use/like I personally like the Meguiar's Ultimate compound and polish. However there are a ton of other options that do as well/or better. For clay I use a range of products, but for your use I would say Chemical Guys clay bar kit would probably do what you need.
Just an FYI you don't need to invest in a dual action polisher to compound and polish, it can be done by hand and save more than a couple dollars...but it'll take a while. I'd say start with clay and see where you're at afterwords. If you still have a bunch of paint transfer then go from there. Another thing I've heard will remove paint transfer (i've never tried it personally) is a carnauba wax, so if you have some around you can give that a go first.
If you do need paint work (it probably won't be as severe as a key) but this video will probably help if you want to try and tackle it yourself.
If you're looking to do a long term value purchase, here's a great setup I can recommend! You may even already have some of these products reducing from the investment cost!
Electric Pressure Washer - $89
Snow Foam Cannon Attachment - $17.88
Shammy / Chamois Towel of Your Choice* - $8.25
Shammy / Chamois help you remove the water off a car so you can go ahead and start waxing once its dry.
1 Gallon of Snow Foam - $29.99
22 Oz Spray Wax Bottle - $12.99
Any pack of microfiber towels, spray like 2 sprays of wax on the microfiber, wipe around, take another microfiber to wipe away wax. $4
1 Gallon Acid / Non-Acid Based Wheel Cleaner (This one is acidic) - $18.99
Dilute the wheel cleaner, spray on the wheels and tires, let it sit for a little bit, then pressure wash off.
Add a clay bar if you want to get embedded dirt / brake dust off your paint! It's easy to do, costs a little, but the results are worth it.
THESE ARE MOSTLY PREMIUM CLEANING PRODUCTS! You can cut a few dollars off by going with more generic products. Why go with Gallons? You dilute all of these (except wax of course), so they will last you a looooooooooooooooong time if used correctly.
The investment is worth it if you ask me, instead of going through your local 1 minute wash for $10 or whatever, you can do a more thorough job yourself!
The water out of the evaporator drain hose is normal.
Something like this can help reduce the smell https://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-96030-Evaporator-Heater-Cleaner/dp/B0007PHD0S
Also if your car has a cabin air filter, check it and change it if needed.
You should be able to simply glue that back on. Can you press it back into place with your hands? Does it sit nice and flat? Someone can probably recommend a better adhesive, but I've had really good luck with 3M Spray Adhesive.
As for the glass damage, I would use a silicone sealer like this: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81730-Flowable-Silicone-Windshield/dp/B000BKEBO0
If you can apply it from the inside that's probably best. Hopefully the outer face of the glass isn't damaged at all. The sealant can fill in the back and keep it from getting worse/keep water from getting in behind the mirror.
I do this all the time. I use Nu Finish car polish (http://www.amazon.com/Nu-Finish-Liquid-Car-Polish/dp/B000BPSW7C) it has a polymer base that can fill in small scratches and repair scuffs for it actually fills in the space of the crack with transparent plastic. It works great on minor stuff and with a good buff wheel you can get most scratches out.
There is also heavy duty version http://www.amazon.com/Nu-Finish-NFS-05-Scratch-Doctor/dp/B000AME50Y/ref=pd_sim_auto_1 have not tried it on screens though.
You're better off buying new ones as you get fresh adhesive strips on the back, and you don't have to worry about fucking them up as you take them off. $20 each on amazon.
Here's what I did. Under $50, front and back emblems, including spray paint purchase.
These two emblems on amazon, front and back OEM:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BFDH8KQ
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FSCN9US
Scuff them up with sandpaper so the paint adheres better to the smooth surface of the emblems, then. Spray paint with flat black. 4 or 5 coats with some time in between to let each one dry. I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XG68SMM
Then put aside and let them dry.
Onto removing your current emblems:
Get some fishing line and 3M adhesive remover: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQYA7W
Spray the adhesive remover on the emblem on your car, then using the fishing line, work at the adhesive using a sawing motion to cut through the layer attached to your car. Once the adhesive is all cut, and you can move the fishing line around like you're flossing, you can pull it out and the emblem will pop out. In addition to the adhesive there are 2 little plastic spikes that stick into holes on your car body. That's the popping out part. You'll have to tufg at it to remove it. Some people break them, hence buying new emblems. Then spray some more adhesive remover and remove the crud left behind with a microfiber towel. If you have a lot of crud, you can use a plastic scraper like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HLWB0BM - or even a credit card... spray with the 3M product, scrape the crud, wipe the crud off the car, repeat. Was pretty quick and painless. Once you're all done, wipe off the adhesive remover with a microfiber towel, make sure you're all nice and clean, then peel off the plastic strips on your new emblems, put it in place, and viola. 10 minutes tops, not including the spray painting.
It should be at least 55-60F temperature to apply emblems properly. They won't stick in colder weather.
Good luck. Simple and easy upgrade. 15 bhp to the wheels.
All I have to add is this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQYA7W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
3M makes the most amazing adhesive remover I have ever used in my life. Spray it on, wait a few seconds, and it destroys any sticky glue. Life changing stuff.
You can't clear up a solid 2-4 hours to clean your car?
Honestly, some good car soap/shampoo, a bucket/grit gaurd, some good wax, and few cans of engine degreaser should be all you need to look pretty good.
I'd recommend this, this, and these to get started.
After you get the engine clean, and the outside cleaned and waxed, just vacuum out the inside and clean up any dust, grit, or dirt you might see. This should all take about 4 hours if you take your time.
I don't have a stake in this game. I do think it's interesting that the company directly refutes your assertion:
WD-40 and Bikes
Myth: WD-40 Multi-Use Product should not be used on bike chains.
Fact: While WD-40 Multi-Use Product it is not a grease, it is
formulated with strong lubricating oils and other ingredients,
and is a terrific product to use for bike maintenance. It does
not attract dirt or moisture to metal surfaces – just be sure to
wipe off any excess WD-40 Multi-Use Product before riding.
For long-term lubrication and other specialized bicycle
maintenance needs, check out WD-40® BIKE. Developed specifically
for cyclists and mechanics, this high-performance line of bicycle care
products is sure to become a mainstay in the toolboxes of bike
mechanics for decades.
I also think it's weird that after saying it's fine to use on bike chains, assuming you wipe off excess, they've got something that's specifically designed for bikes - which either was marketed because it's actually better for bicycling purposes, or was released due to bike shops instructing people not to use it for this purpose.
Personally, I prefer wax-based chain products on my (motor)bike. If wax-based isn't handy, multi-use teflon'll do.
There are guys that use WD-40 on their motorcycle chains exclusively, and swear by it.
Go to Amazon and order this (I like Meg's products),
This should run you about $345 for everything and have you setup to take care of your car for a long time. You can find a 20% discount code online for harbor freight to bring the price down $55 for the DA. Go to home depot and buy a couple buckets and you will be good to go.
Edit: To add, I went to Lowes and bought a cheap inline sprayer for my hose and it works fine for foaming up the vehicle, plus it only costs $5.
Edit2: If you are going to downvote me please post why you don't like my recommendation.
Get yourself one of these. Eraser Wheel if you have a drill, these work great.
certainly.
also see r/AutoDetailing for the noob questions/ info. Its a huge help. so is Youtube! hope that points you in the right direction!
First off, it's ok. I use those car washes often, because I don't have the facilities at home to wash my car there. Here's my step by step for easy, simple car care that does the 90% solution. (I.E. NOT paying $120+ for a detail, and NOT spending 6 hours on my car every week)
Go the the car wash, at night so the sun isn't baking the soap into your car.
Initially rinse the car at a low-power setting (usually not pulling the trigger on the wand will result in a half power spray) This is so that you aren't driving contaminates into your paint.
Soap the car down with the soap setting, still just spraying it. Soap the whole car and make sure to work top-down and the contaminates are running off.
Rinse car again. Rinse the brush too, very well. Feel it with your hand and ensure there's no grit.
Soap up car with brush, don't push hard, just light swirls.
Rinse car.
Immediately pull out shammy cloth or microfiber towels and dry car.
Go home for the rest of these steps.
buy Zymol brand cleaner wax
This stuff is fantastic. Ok, start on the top, spread a small, half dollar size squirt on the paint, and rub it out to cover 2-4 sq feet, keep rubbing and then stop, let it dry. (0-30 seconds, maybe as long as a minute) Then use a second cloth (dry) and rub it off, work in small circles. The paint below should be crystal clean and most of the slight spiderwebs in paint should be filled.
Do this to the whole car.
Go back and look over the paint. You'll find some deeper scrapes and scratches that aren't totally gone. That's ok. Use this: Meguiars Scratch-X It's great, use a small ammount (dime size) and rub into the scratches, polishing them and wipeing off the dried material with a second, clean dry cloth.
Now your whole car should be shiny, and not have any spider webs! Use any simple Meguiars brand polish to make it shine a bit more, but at this step I just use the spray on stuff.
Make sure to buy many many micro fiber towels. They are cheap. If you drop one on the ground, put it in the wash and grab another. I go through 8-10 when washing/ waxing. I know it sound common sense, but only use one for wax application, one for wax removal, one for glass, etc etc.
Now for wheels, I use this: TUFF STUFF It's safe for everything, it's also what I use to remove stains in the interior and clean my floor mats. It's super cheap and works great!! Spray on a wheel, wait 30 seconds, wipe off. Removes 90% of road grime and brake dust immediately. May need to touch up a couple spots. Rinse wheel off. Spray tire foam on the tire, wipe off excess.
Your car should look great and be scratch free. I will typically go out and 3-4 days later gently wipe off my car with micro fiber towels, and then go over with the quick detail spray by meguiars. Takes 10-15 minutes and the car instantly goes back to looking like I just washed it. During the summer I'll do this 2-3 times between real serious washings, so I only have to wash fully once a month!
(but my car is silver and easier to keep clean)
honestly, i wouldn't get either of those. yeah they're both good, but you really don't need all of that.
what i use:
griot's garage clay
meguairs soap
mothers cleaner wax
nu finish
and of course a (or a couple) 5 gallon buckets with a grit guard , which is completely not necessary, but highly recommended by professional detailers. i don't use one, and my car comes out fine. and a good, soft wash mitt. either a good sponge or a wheel brush for your wheels would be needed as well.
my once a year routine is as follows:
wash, claybar, nu polish, cleaner wax
usually wash every 2 weeks or so, and rewax every 6 weeks or so. if i did a bunch of off roading and the paint is gritty i'll clay as needed, but usually it's once a year.
also head over to /r/autodetailing for a lot of tips. beware though that they use a lot of very high end products, and circle jerk over polishing and getting perfect reflections. if all you're looking to do is keeping your paint in good condition, then what i do is just fine. if you're interested in keeping your paint better than factory, follow them.
Use the sealer first and then the wax. Wax should always be last on the list. I have use this Jet Seal 109 from CG that seems to last and give a good shine. Chemical Guys JETseal 109 Anti-Corrosion Sealant (16 oz.)
Rain X, always
A gallon of car wash soap to last you a few years: https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-CWS_301-Citrus-Concentrated/dp/B004K9KETY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1509988980&sr=8-3&keywords=chemical+guys+wash+and+gloss
A gallon of spray wax to last you a few years:
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D15601-Synthetic-X-Press-Spray/dp/B005JPJMI2
Gallon of leather cleaner: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D18001-Leather-Cleaner-Conditioner/dp/B0006SH4PU
A 36-pack of microfiber towels to last you maybe a year.. depending on how many kids you're carrying (is it bad I assume you're carring kids in this daycare limosine?) , keep all towels separate for duty: https://www.amazon.com/Kirkland-Signature-Premium-Microfiber-36-Pack/dp/B00GARQKII/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1509988902&sr=8-1&keywords=kirkland+microfiber
Gallon sized products are the way to go for general cleaning. Glass cleaner concentrates that dilute 10:1, Wheel cleaners (dilute), all purpose cleaners (dilute), Leather cleaners, spray waxes, etc.
Maintenance:
Buy a 5 or 10 pack of oil filters on amazon. Also funnel, oil rags, and every type of oil filter wrench.
Buy full synthetic oil at walmart or on amazon.
Install a fumoto oil drain valve for easy oil changes.
Rhino ramps to drive up on.
I've been pretty happy with Optimum No Rinse Wash & Wax
i think those scratches will come out. they dont seem so bad. you can confirm this by running your nail around them and seeing if it catches your fingernail. youll be better off if they dont really catch.
i think i would go with this car kit from meguiars
as well as ultimate compound
and some polish
i would then wash the car, clay the car, scratchx the scratches, plastx the headlights, compound the car, polish the car, then wax the car.
that will definitely do you. if you have more money, check out a bunch of the sidebar lists for more stuff. maximus's pretty much has it all.
edit: and maybe a couple of these mf applicators. i think they are easier to use and spread the product and work it in really well.
Here are both of the products I got (Not including the Pressure Washer)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009OTW646/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CE78VO8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Been using Meguire's Car Wash
Meguiar's G7101FFP Gold Class Car Wash - 1 gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071HR14SJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0ioMDbSFX1D4K
and Liquid Wax
MEGUIAR'S G18216 Ultimate Liquid Wax, 16 Fluid Ounces, 1 Pack
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004HCM9H4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VkoMDb4XC1C4Y
Been happy with the results Consistent waxing really makes washing alot easier
Let's start by saying car covers are a pain in the ass for daily use, the car has to be perfectly clean to prevent it from scratching and it just doesn't work that way unless the car is washed every couple of days.
Instead I'd just wash 1 or 2 times a week, and get a gallon-size of Meguiar's spray wax and Last Touch, because you know you'll be in a constant battle against certain elements, might as well stock up (and you save like 50% just buying in bulk this way). In fact I recommend checking out their entire detailer line because you're going to go through a lot of soaps, waxes, etc. Their gallon of shampoo plus for $20 is a great start. And you can find deals like 3-packs of their supreme shine towels for $6 as an amazon add-on item if you're a prime customer.
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D11101-Shampoo-Plus-Gallon/dp/B000EZICII
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3002-Microfiber-Wash-Mitt/dp/B000RXKR6M/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485457672&sr=1-1&keywords=meguiar%27s+microfiber+mitt
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D15601-Synthetic-X-Press-Spray/dp/B005JPJMI2
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D15501-Touch-Spray-Detailer/dp/B0006SH4NC/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485453717&sr=1-1&keywords=last+touch
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D12001-Glass-Cleaner-Concentrate/dp/B0006SH4KU/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485457691&sr=1-4&keywords=meguiar%27s+glass+cleaner
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Supreme-Shine-Microfiber-Cloths/dp/B0009IQZH0/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485455013&sr=1-2&keywords=supreme+shine
I just buy all their gallon sized stuff and then reuse my old bottles of spray wax, detailers spray, glass cleaner, wheel bottles, etc. Saves me lots of money, like the difference between $100 now or a couple hundred by next year. For instance their gallon size of glass cleaner is probably enough to set you straight on that for a few years, dilutes 10-1 with distilled water. That's 10 gallons of glass cleaner, put that in an old windex bottle and never run out!
Also the Chemical Guy's bucket kit https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-ACC_101-Detailing-Bucket/dp/B001U522GO was a pretty amazing deal and necessary if you're going to use coin-wash bays. However the mitt included is a bit rough, so instead I use a meguiar's microfiber mitt as its the softest I've found so far. The paint on this car is very soft so it's important to use the softest products possible on the paint.
An Invisible Glass Reach and Clean tool has worked out great for cleaning the interior glass and keeping it from fogging up. Great item to have. https://www.amazon.com/Invisible-Glass-Reach-Clean-95161/dp/B0017K69MA
And a bird poop tip, keep a plastic container with microfibers, a bottle of water, and a bottle of last touch / spray wax mix in the trunk or behind passenger seat. If a bird hits the car, just soak microfiber with water, apply for 30 seconds, and then clean with the detailer spray / spray wax.
To prevent corrosion, you're going to want to clean deep into the wheel wells and stuff with dedicated brushes and mitts, and then use an anti corrosion product (I ordered some ACF-50 spray recently, getting it in the mail today probably) https://www.amazon.com/Lear-Chemical-ACF50-Anti-Corrosion-Lubricant/dp/B000P1C8UO . You're going to want to check crevices for salt buildup, it can happen on some of the window trim parts, so it might be necessary to remove them and clean them out if it starts to rust underneath. You might want to use dabs of silicone stuff to prevent water and salt from corroding these spots. There are a few posts about corrosion of FT86club forums so read up on them. Also your cabin air filter, leaves and bugs like to get in your cabin air filter and make things nasty. You can easily check / service this yourself, its behind the glove box.
For maintenance, I would NOT go past 5000 miles on an oil change, and be choosy where you take your oil changes. The car likes running on fresh oil period. Buy a 5 pack of oem oil filters and oem crush washers to keep yourself straight for awhile, saves money and time. Or also a fumoto oil valve can save even more effort, as a DIY'er it made my oil changes the easiest thing to do. Check your tire pressure constantly, because a decrease in pressure will make the car drive like crap and will wear your tires out quickly.
Your 60k mile maintenance or therabouts is an important interval. Needs stuff done like spark plug changes, and probably checking the clutch throwout bearing to see if it has become worn. These are expensive and labor intensive, expect a $1000 bill.
Optimum (NRWW2012Q) No Rinse Wash & Wax - 32 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GG9FB8U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_V7R7BbFT6WKYB this will change your life as it did mine
I also used car guys hybrid wax sealant
It's fine and anyone who says otherwise just doesn't know what they're talking about and shouldn't be speaking. Do you want to use an industrial 3000psi pressure washer meant to effortlessly remove paint from brick walls? No, probably not. Can you use a 2200psi residential use pressure washer with an appropriate nozzle that disperses the water in a 24-40 degree spray pattern? Absolutely, I do it every few weeks without any issue on both my bike and cars.
Like everything else adults do, use sound judgement and rational decision making. Don't get the nozzle too close to an area you don't want to risk damaging, don't use a zero degree nozzle setting that acts as a water jet, and don't focus the spray on a single area for any amount of time.
While you're at it, do yourself a favor and get a foam cannon along with foam cannon specific wash solution and have at it. It's actually kinda fun to use too! Rinse the bike with the pressure washer to remove surface dirt, foam it up and let it sit for a minute, wash with a mitt, rinse with the pressure washer, then rinse once with the open hose end.
Yes it will work as all of those. You may also want to look into [ONRWW] (http://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NRWW2012Q-Rinse-Wash-Wax/dp/B00GG9FB8U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464230627&sr=8-1&keywords=optimum+no+rinse+wash+%26+wax) . I use both on a regular basis. I also really like [WG Uber] (http://www.amazon.com/Wolfgang-WG-3700-Uber-Rinse-less/dp/B017KSJ5ZK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464230678&sr=8-1&keywords=wolfgang+uber) the best. ONRWW will leave protection behind. WG Uber works phenomenal, smells good, leaves a high gloss and paint very slick. Its by far my favorite one.
My local shop quoted me $300 to fix the paint and $250 to replace the plastic piece. I told them it was a lease and surprisingly they told me I should wait until I am about to turn the car in since more damage will happen. I also have $5K of lease damage insurance so even if I get dinged (ha!) for this, it will be covered by that insurance.
Being a perfectionist, I still wanted to clean things up so I turned to Amazon and bought about $40 worth of supplies:
I was able to fix the damage to the plastic piece entirely, it looks as good as new. I used an ample amount of Novus 2 and 3. I wasn't expecting Novus to be able to tackle such a big scratch and I was just hoping to get rid of some minor scuffs but I was pleasantly surprised, there is a slight dip in the plastic that is visible if you are about 3 inches away and looking from an extreme angle but I don't even feel a bump anymore.
I also did a few more rounds of Scratch X on the paint scratch and got rid of about 50% of it, I painted the deep chip but I didn't want to risk making it worse so it's still visible from about a foot away. I'm going to practice on another car with some filler and see if I can master the art of filling in deep chips and painting them but for now the metal under the chip is safe from rust.
>This caused a around 1mm mark on my car. Would you guys think this is a scratch?
You may be able to buff it out if it's minor.
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10307-Scratch-X-2-0/dp/B0002UNON8
>I know some people really recommend using the parking brake on manual cars, but should I be using it on my car? My car is automatic and not manual, but if it is recommended and safer, I may just give it a try.
Yes, use the parking brake. When you park an automatic, there is a small dowel about the size of your pinky that snaps out of one part of the transmission into another. That is all that holds your car in place when you shut it off.
>Any other tips would be great, I am just completely excited to be driving, it is quite fun!
Check fluids and tire pressures weekly. Oil, coolant, brake fluid.
Always address any new sights, sounds, or smells immediately before they can snowball into big bills.
Look wwwaaaaaayyyy down the road whenever possible. You can often avoid troubles if you see them in advance. The same goes for using your mirrors.
Enjoy!
Your first mistake was not keeping your car waxed in the first place! If you had done that, water would have been all you would've needed! SHAME! SHAME! SHA-
Okay, I'm done.
It'll polish out easily. A shop should take care of this for $15 with a cordless polisher in the parking lot in a matter of 3 minutes. But, some shops don't work like that because of capitalism and "time is money", in which case you could get that out with a small bottle of polish and an application sponge. I'd suggest this:
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10307-ScratchX-2-0-oz/dp/B0002UNON8/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1527550086&sr=1-11&keywords=meguiars+polish
and
https://www.amazon.com/SPTA-Finishing-Hand-Applicator-Polishing/dp/B01M0GRIGS/ref=sr_1_7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1527549955&sr=1-7&keywords=hand+polishing+pad
Lubegard 96030 Kool-It Evaporator and Heater Foam Cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007PHD0S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mLiHDb239H1J7
I use this
you have a variety of choices as far as silicone types, most notably flowable silicone and rtv silicone.
flowable, such as Permatex's flowable windshield sealant, has an added benefit of self leveling meaning you don't have to shape the material to fit the response groove as it's thin enough to fill in the area like a liquid. Cures into a solid material after 24 hours or so.
rtv silicone, such as Permatex ultra black or Permatex high-temp red, can be more robust of a material after curing however it requires a little more manual labor as you have to shape the silicone in the groove and make it flush/level. Manual shaping means it'll be a little more messy depending on how you go about it but it's really not too bad once you get the hang of it.
Personally I prefer rtv silicone for the variety of formulations I can use but most beginners will probably use flowable since it's far more convenient to pour.
when i first started out i went down to my local hardware store and picked up a small tube of rtv silicone, brand not a factor, and just started practicing on a couple of throws that I had really worn down the response on.
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81730-Flowable-Silicone-Windshield/dp/B000BKEBO0
I've used this to stop slippage between my air mattress and my silnylon bivy floor and it works great, but not sure how it would work on polycro.
This is what most people use https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81730-Flowable-Silicone-Windshield/dp/B000BKEBO0
Nu Finish Liquid Car Polish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BPSW7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2tZTAbNVCW14X
Seconded for 3M Adhesive Remover. I've tried a bunch of stuff and hands down this is the best.
Definitely look into the Two Bucket method. I'll give a brief explanation though. Basically the idea of the two buckets is to clean dirt and other grime off of the wash mitt after it touches the car. Just dunking a mitt back into the bucket of wash is not entirely effective at this. This is were the Grit Guard come in. One of these is in each bucket, used to rub your mitt on to free up dirt. One bucket has your wash and the other is just water. The process would be: Mitt into Wash. Clean panel. Mitt into Rinse, rub against Grit Guard. Mitt back to wash, rub against Grit Guard again. Back to Car. The Grit Guard will also help trap loose dirt particles at the bottom of the bucket. The whole idea of the whole bucket system is to cut down on transferring dirt from the mitt back onto the paint and scratching it.
As far as other supplies, it's already been suggested to check out the Bare Minimum Supplies List, but also have a look at the Massive Product List.
I'd recommend picking up a tire gel as well. These last longer and won't sling.
Also, a good dedicated wheel cleaner goes a long way. While it may be a bit pricey, Sonax Full Effect Wheel & Tire cleaner is amazing at cleaning brake dust and other grime. It's also pH balanced so it's safe on any surface.
I've used Megs Deep Crystal Wax and it does not hold up very well. Not sure if that's the exact one you have, but if you want something that's going to provide the best bang per buck, I'd go with Collinite #845 Insulator Wax. Amazingly easy application and removal.
If you want a semi-gloss shine for the interior, I'd use 303 Aerospace Protectant. Awesome stuff. Acts as SPF 45 for your interior plastics, rubbers, whatever. Also works great in the engine bay.
However, if you aren't looking to "upgrade" any products, I'd definitely say pick up a clay bar. I've had good luck with Griot's Garage clay bar. Also, I've got the Mother's Clay Bar Kit and that worked quite well also. If you are wondering if your car needs to be clay bar'd or not, there's a simple test you can do. The "plastic Bag" test is very simple and effective and showing how contaminated the paint of your vehicle is. Basically, just put your hand in a plastic bag and rub it along a lubricated surface of your car. If it feels rough, the car needs clay barring. I recently got a 10 year old used car and the paint felt like sandpaper. Took me forever to clay it, but it brought back a lot of the shine because there was so much contamination dulling the paint.
Oh! How many microfiber cloths you have? If you're in need, be sure to check out The Rag Company. The Microfiber I got from them is amazing.
Let me know if you have an questions and hopefully I didn't ramble too much.
I've done everything from the exact interval as specified by the service manual, to maybe not lubing a chain for a whole year on one bike a long time ago.
My experience has been that you SHOULD keep your chain lubed, but also, a high quality chain like a DID x-ring will put up with an amazing amount of use even if you push the interval farther than suggested.
The number one most important point in this discussion, IMVHO, is that you inspect your chain (and sprockets!) frequently and with a careful eye. If you do this often, you should be able to catch any issues developing with your chain before they become a chain failure.
If you see visible rust, its time for a hardcore cleaning and re-lube. I like kerosene and a chain brush for cleaning, and a wax based spray lube for relubrication. A scottoiler is a great addition to any bike as long as you don't mind doing the install and keeping an eye on it to ensure it is dripping at the correct rate (and to refill it before it runs dry).
Wax is often a lot less messy. Maxima makes a really good one that takes about 2 seconds to apply and sets rather quickly. It smells nice too IMO.
Wow. I should get into paint correction. <$250 for all the tools and polish and waxes. As a car guy, I don't mind waxing my car every 6 months (or 4 months if you're in the frigid north or are anal). I also feel it's foolish to drop $2k-4k on these nano-quartz-bullshit schemes that a lot of car guys swear by nowadays. If you want to drop $4k on paint protection, go for it, but I can get a full window-out repaint for the same price!
Here's what I learned:
Buy the equipment:
https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46
https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Action-Hook-Flexible-Backing-Plate/dp/B0008G1RDK
https://www.costco.com/Kirkland-Signature-Microfiber-Towel-Case%2C-324-count.product.100341124.html
https://www.amazon.com/Collinite-Liquid-Insulator-Wax-845/dp/B000JK2D06
http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country-beveled-pad-kit.html (MIN: 2 orange, 2 white, 1 black, 1 blue -- I prefer doubling this order; Autogeek almost always has 10-25% off coupons on their mailing list)
You will also need an extension wire with the appropriate gauge (too thin/cheap cables might cause you to burn your Porter Cable motor!)
Buy the compounds (start with UC; if swirls aren't getting cut, move up to 50%/50% UC and 105 on the pads; finish with 205 regardless):
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM (medium aggressive)
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B003LMGDHI (most aggressive)
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B001O7PNXC
Wash your car with this, and the two-bucket method:
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7164-Class-Shampoo-Conditioner/dp/B0009IQXFO
https://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-Chenille-Microfiber-Premium-Scratch-Free/dp/B002J7KCOG
Claybar the car:
https://www.amazon.com/YGDZ-Quality-Detailing-Claybar-Shipping/dp/B01MF4BVVS
It took me about 5-6 relaxed hours on a Sunday with a few beers for the full correction. Now I simply top up the wax every few months (and that only takes 30 min).
The thing is, once you do the full correction and get rid of all your swirls and scuffs and whatever clearcoat damage (wash + claybar + M105/UC + M205 + wax), then you don't have to do the FULL correction ever again.
Ever again meaning, if you wash the car properly thereafter with the two-bucket method. You'll simply need to top up the wax once it stops beading -- the wax will protect the clearcoat from damage and swirls.
My wax lasted 6+ months being daily driven in the California sun with three coats of Collinite 845 -- I assume if yours will see more snow and ice and rain, perhaps it'll only last 3-4 months. But since a bottle costs <$20 and you'll get at least 36+ layers out of it, I always recommend this versus the "nano coatings" that people are shelling out $2-4k for.
Here's the Collinite fanboy thread:
https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/40243-collinite-845-definitive-how-guide-legendary-wax.html
Any other questions, feel free to ask. Good luck!
I would buy a high quality paste or liquid wax for use over a sealer. For wax I like Meguiars Ultimate or Mother's California Gold. They're both really nice waxes in my experience.
For a sealer, I highly recommend Chemical Guys Jet Seal. It adds a really nice layer of shine and water/dirt repellency.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001TFE38A/
In terms of interior products, I'd recommend you stay away from oil-based products (armour all and the like) as they can form a layer of product and dirt over time that makes difficult to clean the dash. Go with a water-based product like 303 Aerospace Protectant https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00AJVP7T4/ it lasts awhile and it gives a more natural finish. And being that it's water-based, it's much easier to remove / clean up should you need to. It doesn't have that 'greasy' feel to it either.
Edit: corrected product application order. Clearly having a long day!
I love Larry's videos from AMMO NYC & DRIVE Clean and have always followed his recommendations for detailing/washing.
I daily drive mine as well. You all should try out Jet Seal. It says it lasts a year, but I try to do it every 6 months or so. The rain basically washes my car now. The stuff is like magic.
https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-WAC_118_16-Anti-Corrosion-Protectant/dp/B001TFE38A/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=jet+seal&amp;qid=1559080493&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
Menzerna Micro Polish SF 4500 - An extremely gentle polish used to prep paint prior to sealing/wax. Works extremely well with Subaru's soft paint.
Chemical Guys JetSeal 109 - No experience with this yet, but good reviews. I'm looking into a few other options for my first paint sealant (just prior to winter). Adds an additional layer of protection between the wax and clear coat.
Colinite 845 - Best wax I've found. Durable, easy to apply and even smells good. Wax is the first line of defense between the elements and your paint. I wax my current vehicle once a month on average. It depends on the weather if I have to do it more/less often. Rule of thumb for me is to re-apply when it stops beading.
Flex seal tape will leak. It did on my 96 Jayco popup and forced me to rebuild the entire roof frame. Look into Eternabond. Its expensive but it is the best version of seal tape you will ever find and EXTREMELY sticky. Ive had it on my popup for 2 years now without a drop of water getting through.
Otherwise, the camper looks to be in great shape! Have fun!
Do not use silicone. You will regret it later when it is time to re-seal your roof.
You will need to get on the roof and reseal the skylight, and, if it were my roof, I would go ahead and do the whole thing if it's needed. You can find plenty of videos on Youtube on how to do this.
Lap sealant can be bought on Amazon (Dicor Self-Leveling Lap Sealant 4-pack), and I would recommend two other items as well; Butyl Tape for laying down as an extra barrier under the roof equipment, and a roll of Eternabond for emergency repair.
That looks to me like an installation of an "insulated patio cover".
The lag is supposed to be self-sealing, but both under and over-tightening can cause the seal to fail, and the rubber gasket does degrade over time.
When I had my patio roof installed, the materials wholesaler strongly suggested to my contractor (who was new to patio-room stuff) that he cover the seams and hold-down lags with "eternabond" tape in order to avoid callbacks. We discussed this, and I elected not to have the seams taped. Later, when leaks appeared, I found 50' rolls of the 2" wide eternabond and used it to seal the seams between panels and used circles of the 4" version over the hold-down bolts. It's now 8 years later, still leak-free. In hindsight, knowing that the roof would mellow from bright white, I probably would have gone with a black or ivory color tape.
Do you have hookups on the lot? Electricity, water, and sewer? I'd definitely recommend thoroughly cleaning it and then going over the seams with EternaBond.
This won't make it look perfect, but it will improve it a LOT.
First you need to gently clean it up best you can. I would use this stuff, but any polishing compound or liquid rubbing compound should work. Don't rub hard with this stuff, just light pressure your only trying to clean it up and give yourself a good surface for the touch up paint.
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G18116-Clear-Polishing-Compound/dp/B006FUT154/
Next get some touch up paint for you car, you can get your cars paint code from any Subaru dealer if you give them your VIN number. You can get the touch up paint from either a Subaru dealer, online, or someplace like Auto Zone.
When touching up the paint less is more, so try to use very little paint and multiple coats.
After the touch up paint has dried then use something like this and just keep polishing it and slowly it will begin to blend in better and better.
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B003LMJP4Q/
Again this isn't the best fix possible but is probably the most affordable fix for the quality you'll end up with if you do everything correctly.
Meguiars 205, HD Polish, McKee's 37 Fast Polish, Menzerna 3500 come to mind. And honorary mention for HD Speed (All In One or Polish + Sealant) since it's not just a polish but is soooooo good.
Yup, Ultimate Polish will work just fine, but if you're going off Amazon anyway I'd go with M205. It's basically the pro version of UP and has slightly more cut but finishes extremely well.
And yeah, you'll need to rewax after, but make sure you're using an IPA spray first to remove the oils so it bonds well! Which Youtube video watch before, btw?
An eraser wheel will get that right off.
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00488DDB8/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This is what mine looked like about halfway through.
Imgur
What was left I clayed with nanoskin and then polished it up. You cant tell the wing was ever there.
Eraser wheel. I used one on some molding adhesive and with a little time and patience it takes everything off without hurting the paint.
My parents' neighbor has been watching as I borrow Mom and Dad's hose and he recently asked if I could take on his car and I was happy to oblige! Overall, the exterior was in okay shape - couple bugs, a few spots of tree sap and bird poo, as well as just a good amount of dirt and mud tucked in some spaces. I gave the car a two bucket wash,
clay, Iron X treatment,Iron X, clay and topped it off with a sealant. Thanks for pointing out that I listed my procedure out of order, /u/Deadfable! Here's the deets:Products Used:
0000 Steel Wool from Home Depot (used with QD for the exhaust tips)
Overall a fun job! Got rewarded with a hearty lunch of sausage and peppers on Italian bread. Happy detailer!!
Thanks! I started off with Mother's California Gold clay bar and waxed with Meguiers Ultimate Liquid Wax.
Honestly I'm not sure when the scratches came out. I didn't notice them after I used the clay bar, but I didn't think to actually look for them. Definitely not visible after the wax, though!
It sorta rained this morning. I was hoping it would be enough to wash away the dirt but it just made it worse. Time to buy a California car duster.
Get a California Car Duster and try to give her a brushing every other day, daily if you can. If you keep up with it, it will stay pretty clean for a long time.
Get this. Works perfect for pollen and dust
I had no idea what you meant... Googled it. Amazoned it. Ordered it. Thank you! It sounds like this is going to be a game changer!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00008RW9U/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_FxNSAbCK0ZNTY
As a black car owner:
EDIT I feel like someones going to chime in and say I'm wrong. This is the way I keep my black car clean & new looking. I bet there are better ways but I do what works for me...
Get one of these ASAP. Works like magic and lasts forever. https://amzn.com/B00008RW9U
I use this with a micro fiber cloth. Lots of small circles with firm pressure. Take the lid off and set it down on a towel so it doesnt move around.
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10307-ScratchX-2-0-oz/dp/B0002UNON8/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1406911488&amp;sr=8-1-fkmr1&amp;keywords=extreme+scratch+remover
Hey guys i'm new to this detailing scene..but I do hope to learn a lot from everyone! I have an 05' white civic and the exterior isn't terrible, but there's definitely parts where there's medium oxidation and swirl marks. Just overall the paint doesn't feel glossy and smooth, just weathered and feels like metal.
Please let me know if I got the steps correct...any inputs is greatly appreciated!
Thanks so much for all your suggestions and inputs. I hope to learn a lot from all of you.
PS. Extra question, I'm doing a roadtrip after the detail...(stupid i know) but what's a good product to get rid of the bug stains while I'm out on the road?
THANKS!!
In the automotive world, scratch removers can get rid of scratches such as these very well. My favorite is the Meguiar brand, and I have a feeling it might work for these cases as well
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10307-Scratch-X-2-0/dp/B0002UNON8/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
i used this on recommendation from some people over at tdpri. i absolutely love the way it feels, and i put it on all of my satin-necked guitars. it's actually nicer than regular poly, IMO. here are some pics i took just now. (not the greatest, apologies.)
You clean it with a can of Kool-it :
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007PHD0S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_YekzDbBP26MQT
The “fix” will likely involve a software solution to dry off the evaporator after you get out of the car on a trip. Some people will turn off the AC and let the fan blow for the last few miles, but I would rather having AC the entire drive.
It's in the ductwork, my dude. You might be able to use an evaporator cleaner to help.
how about this?
i just googled "Evaporator cleaning Kit auto" so you may want to do that too if you need to find something local to you.
I’m not blindly defending anything. I’ve had numerous problems with my Model 3, all fixed with mobile service, none of which I had with previous vehicles.
It’s a first generation car. Issues, big and small, come with the territory. Escalating something like mildew and dirty cabin air filters into calling it a design flaw, note the italics for extra out of proportion emphasis, per previous posts, is pretty minor, grand scheme.
Sounds like you’re more twisted about paying for it. If that’s the case, I get it. They should fix it for free due to their beta testing on customers. But they haven’t. If it’s totally un-drivable (blown out of relative aforementioned proportion), sell it. If it’s a minor nuisance, you can get a kit for $99 USD (or piece meal it yourself, $16) and do it yourself. It can’t be that hard.
Anyway, downvote as needed, it doesn’t change my view.
edit: links
This is what you want
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81730-Flowable-Silicone-Windshield/dp/B000BKEBO0
I highly recommend the Magic Yoyo N9 and N12. The N11 is probably great too.
The 10 ball bearings in the N11 and N12 are okay. You'll probably want to replace them fairly soon though. The 8 ball bearing in the N9 is barely okay. It will likely need replacing immediately. That said, if you can tolerate a slightly substandard bearing or get lucky and get one with no problems, you may not need to replace them.
The response pads will also need to be replaced. Buy some flowable silicone if you don't have some. You can find tutorials on youtube.
(Also, I have no idea why this has been downvoted at least twice. I upvoted to help.)
This is what most people use.
i've heard of people lining the floor of their tent with flowable silicone, like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81730-Flowable-Silicone-Windshield/dp/B000BKEBO0
to prevent pads from slipping- you might try putting some silicone on the bottom of your pad to get the same effect?
I bought my flowable silicone from amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BKEBO0/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i03?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Make sure you don't get the "RTV" version. It doesn't work.
Get the one that has "Windshield and Glass Sealer" on its label.
I used it to mod my Yomega Dash to unresponsive and it works really well. I also used it to replace the worn-out response pad on my YYJ Trigger. I would say followable silicone is better than the stock response on my Trigger.
So definitely try to use followable silicone in your yoyos. You won't be disappointed.
I use this stuff - https://www.amazon.com/Nu-Finish-Liquid-Car-Polish/dp/B000BPSW7C/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510849021&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=nu+finish&amp;dpID=41TQElpWDtL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
But whatever you have is probably fine. I don't care for spray on, if you over-spray and get it on the floor, you are going to slip and hurt yourself. Wipe it on, let it sit for a bit, wipe excess off.
When I get my Impreza in a month and a half, I plan on giving it a coat of wax. Seems like a good idea. I've heard this wax is good...
Nu Finish Liquid Car Polish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BPSW7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cSPAybN24F9GC
Not sure what else, I'm looking for recommendations too.
Planning to wash and wax my wife's car this weekend. My plan is to use Meg'sUltimate as the wax. I've used NuFinish forEVER.
Would/Could/Should I apply NuFinish and then Meg's?
Edit: spelling
3M Adhesive remover
Prima stuff: http://www.primacarcare.com/
Foamer I use: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000Y190WE/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Grit Guard for your buckets (FFS buy two and two buckets): http://www.amazon.com/Grit-Guard-Wash-Bucket-Insert/dp/B000N3W8J0/ref=pd_bxgy_lg_img_z
Adam's Car Wash: http://www.adamspolishes.com/
Monster MF Extra Thick Towels: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001UFK9NM/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Well I've just started getting together my own kit and felt I HAD to get these:
I still feel like there are atleast ten other products that I NEED!
-Pressure Washer
-Foam Cannon
-Detailing brushes
-Sealants/Compounds combined with a proper rotor drill
-ETC
I would reccomend these materials for the two bucket wash method. Its probably the most common method, and one of the safest. There are plenty of youtube how to's on this. These are the materials you'll need.
Not Necessarily essentials, but recommended.
I don't think you need anything like a DA at this point. Others will have recommendations for you, and I encourage you to take their advice as well. Some great youtube channels are Ammo NYC, Larry is a master at explaining how to's. He has is own line of products but they're expensive. You can even email him with questions and he'll respond quickly and go above and beyond to explain somethingto you. Junkman, also another great channel. Chemical Guys, they have some pretty good products but their customer service is shit. Their youtube videos are pretty good but all they do is upsell their products.
I'm fairly new to detailing like you. I dont have the best products, but what I use seems to work for me. There are better products out there but budgets can only be so large.
two bucket method and grit guard. Dont apply wax in direct sunlight
http://www.amazon.com/Grit-Guard-Insert-Red-Diameter/dp/B000N3W8J0/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1426439413&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=grit+guard
If you wanna keep it under $30 and want a very basic method of keeping your car clean then I would recommend the tried and true 2-Bucket Wash method.
TOTAL: $45ish
I know that $45 is over your budget of $30, but I highly recommend using the 2-bucket wash method. You can get away with using 1 grit guard and 1 wash mitt if you want to cut a little bit on cost. You could also buy a smaller size of car wash shampoo... this may get you closer to budget.
The reason I buy 2 grit guards is to use 1 in each bucket. You can buy only 1 and use it in the rinse water bucket for when you rinse your mitt.
You can also get away with having 1 wash mitt and look at different brands. I personally use 2 (one for upper half, one for lower half) to reduce contamination.
---
If you want to expand later on to go beyond cleaning the car... then you can put some money into additional products. You will want to look into wheel brushes, all-purpose cleaner, glass cleaners, detail sprays, waxes, etc.
Once you start, you cannot stop!
I have this issue on my '17 SV650, it goes away after a good cleaning.
Pick up a grunge brush and some chain wax or equivalent.
I do this after every bike wash.
Also check the chain while you have your weight on the bike.
Maxima 74920 Chain Wax - 13.5 oz. Aerosol https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012TZ1RU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RPERDbGJEH1W8
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0012TZ1RU?pc_redir=1404538634&amp;robot_redir=1
Amazon has the big bottle of M205 for $18
It depends on how aggressive you were with this "magic eraser". You say it dulled the surface rather than scratched it, which indicates that the scratches are very fine and very shallow. This should be easily repairable by just polishing it out with a very fine grade polishing compound. M205 is a popular choice. You can find it on Amazon or in most hardware/auto stores. You can (and should) post in /r/autodetailing if you want more responses.
You can totally DIY paint correct with a dual action polisher.
Here’s a straightforward shopping list and guide. This will knock out most if not all of your swirl marks.
Shopping List:
Machine Polisher - PORTER-CABLE Variable Speed Polisher, 6-Inch (7424XP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002654I46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l7SADbKPP1Q6Q
Backing Pad - Astro 4607 5" PU Velcro Backing Pad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CH3Z8W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_T7SADbZ187WK1
Bugging Pads - Chemical Guys HEX_3KIT_5 5.5" Buffing Pad Sampler Kit (4 Items), 16. Fluid_Ounces, 4 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J588UNG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_d9SADb8WF470V
Compound - Meguiar's G17220 Ultimate Compound, 20 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W5HCZ9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_M9SADb0ADEMZJ
Finishing Polish - Meguiar's M20532 Mirror Glaze Ultra Finishing Polish, 32 Fluid Ounces, 1 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001O7PNXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_i-SADbWXADMQT
Wax - Your preference
Here’s the guide:
1 – Tool Prep
Set aside the dual-action polisher, backing pad, and foam pads. Remove the included backing plate that’s already attached to the Porter Cable polisher, use the included wrench. Re-attached using the Astro pad, secure tightly.
2 – Wash
Wash your car by hand, preferably using the two-bucket method. Afterward, move the car into your garage or shaded area. You’ll want to be out of direct sunlight, keeping the paint as cool as possible.
3 – Clay Bar
Clay bar the entire car. Make sure to wipe down the finish afterward, keeping it as clean as possible.
4 – Compound Buffing
Grab your machine polisher, the Ultimate Compound, and the orange pad. Attach the pad to the polisher using the velcro backing, make sure it’s centered. Prime the pad by dabbing 8-10 dime-sized amounts across the surface. Start working one section at a time, around 2 x 2 feet. Before you turn on the polisher, press the pad against the paint. Compound polish should be soaked within the pad, along with the paint. Press the pad against the surface, set to speed setting 2-3, and begin spreading the compound around in quick passes. Then, turn it up to 5-6 and let the fun begin. Use overlapping, slow passes. Once you’re done, wide the area clean with a microfiber towel.
5 – Inspection
Check out your results of the first section. Go over the area again if most of the swirl marks aren’t gone. If the swirls are gone, but a light haze is present, don’t worry. The finishing polish will take care of it.
6 – Polish Buffing
Use the M205 Finishing Polish with the white pad. Follow the same steps from before. Prime the pad and rub it against the paint before turning on the polisher. Use a max speed of 3-4 with medium pressure. The Finishing Polish will take care of the rest of the haze and micro scratches. Once you’re finished with the first section, wipe clean.
7 – Inspection
Again, check out the results of the M205 Finishing Polish. It’s doubtful you’ll need more than one application, but double-check all the same. If it’s looking great, move on and finish the rest of your car.
8 – Wax
Your paint is looking great. The swirl marks are gone, leaving a bright clean finish. Apply the wax using the black foam pad. Use very light pressure, letting the pad float along with the paint. You’re just coating your car’s finish, that’s all. Wipe clean with a microfiber towel.
oh boy now you are getting in detailing! what your going to need is meguiars 205 finish polish, a DA polisher. and a lake country orange cutting pad and a backing pad (theres one that comes with the harbor freight one, but its considered trash)
https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-57-amp-heavy-duty-dual-action-variable-speed-polisher-69924.html
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B001O7PNXC?keywords=meguairs+205&amp;qid=1536994013&amp;sr=8-1&amp;ref=sr_1_1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CH3Z8W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I use Meguiar's M105 then M205 on my headlights.
50% off 32oz M205 polish on Amazon!
Yeah I got confused, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O7PNXC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 that is what I ended up buying, so it was correct to use this right? It did not get rid of the swirls at all however, should I try M105 or something, not sure what heavy cuts is.
Touchless car washes don't do shit to clean your car. I spent about $8 on that useless machine, and there was still a layer of dirt on my front/rear bumper, side skirts, and grill. Best thing to do if you're on a budget is buy one of these [microfiber wash mitt] (http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-Chenille-Microfiber-Scratch-Free/dp/B003TTL0TE/ref=lp_3020674011_1_2?srs=3020674011&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1454030316&amp;sr=8-2) and the next time you head over to one of those self service car washes just pre-soak the car and the mit and scrub one panel at a time and rinse off the mitt with the pressure hose.
Edit : If you're not on a budget i would recommend doing the 2 bucket car wash method once a week or so. After about 4-6 months i would clay bar the vehicle and use ONR as a lubricant. There are many sealants out there, but only a few can last nearly 6 months. Chemical guys has some great sealants and waxes, but they have so many that it confuses the shit out of people. Save yourself the hassle and get some Jet Seal, some microfiber applicators and some microfiber towels and you're set.
Edit 2: Here is a list of tested waxes and sealants i found on the interwebs a few weeks back http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=85205
These have been shown to have lasted more than 4 months
"Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection
Chemical Guys: M-Seal, Jetseal 109, Speed Amor
Klasse AIO and Sealant Glaze
Hi Temp Paste
Zaino AIO, Z2 and Z5
Wolfgang Deep Gloss Sealant."
I'm fairly new, myself. I've driven clunkers most of my life. Spent about five years downtown where I didn't have a car. Now I'm back in suburbia, so I've got a brand new GTI, and it's the first one I've ever cared to take good care of. Here's what I started with:
I should have picked up some of Chemical Guys' citrus wash and clear, too, to help deal with a winter's worth of grime left by terrible touchless car washes. I've also got a tire brush, hand vacuum, and some assorted cheap microfiber towels around already.
Your kit looks a lot more cost-effective, though. Throw in some cheap buckets, grit guards, wash mitts, and drying towel, and an extra stack of cheap microfibers and you're still under $100 for practically everything you would need for a proper two-bucket wash and wax.
In a similar "band-aid but could actually last a really long time" vein, there are some amazing tapes out there:
https://www.amazon.com/EternaBond-RSW-4-50-RoofSeal-Sealant-White/dp/B002RSIK4G
Cuts drywall like butter. Great job on the vents. You can put this product over your caulk surrounding the vent, hitting the top of the van and the vent itself, adding additional years of proven protection to your job. A lot of people with motor homes love this shit. As per the reviews.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002RSIK4G/ref=twister_B01JRKPJ0E?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Could give RV repair tape a try. Mind you once its on, its NOT coming off. Its also not cheap, but you shouldn't need much. Id suggest thinking of something to put under the tape to gap the hole, of course. Give it something more to stick to and to keep it from flexing. Maybe even thin sheet of plywood.
Or even some scrap kitchen flooring and use rv tape to hold it down.
EternaBond RSW-4-50 RoofSeal Sealant Tape, White - 4" x 50' https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002RSIK4G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6EQNBbMX14GJ4
Just some ideas to get you thinking
For reference I looked up that tape. Wow, it is expensive. I think I'll stick to my silicone caulk for now. http://www.amazon.com/EternaBond-RSW-4-50-White-Roof-Seal/dp/B002RSIK4G
Don’t have any advice on an inspector but can lend a hand on tools. I did a bunch of projects in my travel trailer and kept an eye on which tools I was using all the time.
Eternabond Sealant tape - easier than dicor caulk and read really good things about it for sealing roof or wall leaks.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002RSIK4G?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Screwdrivers (obviously!)
number 2 square driver (most of the screws in mine are, not sure about other brands)
Socket set
Electrical tape
Electrical pieces (wirenuts, spade connectors)
Multimeter
A few shark bite plumbing fittings (coupler, cap)
A handheld saw, one that takes sawzall style blades and an assortment of blades.
Small sledge hammer, sometimes called an engineering hammer
This one may be a bit gross, but a few of the long wooden sticks like you’d use for roasting marshmallows, the thicker and longer the better. We wound up having the dreaded poo pyramid at the base of the toilet from not using enough water or too much paper. The stick was flexible enough to break things up and bend around the corner to help move things back down into the tank.
Hope that helps a little bit!
Good luck with your search
I've gotta say, that's less than encouraging. The only folks I know that regularly use both a rotary and 3M products are body shops or car dealers. And they are not generally known for being great detailers. 3M products actually kind of suck compared to more modern options.
As someone else mentioned, the Meguiar's M105 and M205 would both be good products (M105 is a first-step, more abrasive polish, M205 a finishing polish to take out any marring left by M105). You can get 8oz bottles on Amazon for about $10/ea. They're easier to work with, dust SIGNIFICANTLY less, and work better than the 3M products. Plus, you can get them in 8oz bottles vs. 32oz bottles.
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B001O7PNW8/
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B003LMJP4Q/
You don't rinse off glazed wax. You wipe it off with about 4 or 5 microfiber cloths and if any dried that you discovered later, some quick detailing acrylic spritz and a microfiber rag will remove it.
I used to own a 16 year old black volvo. It looked like this.
http://i.imgur.com/5gFUa.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/vV9UrIf.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ohPul7n.jpg
The trick to black cars (or really any color) is that it's not simply a matter of washing and then wiping on some wax and wiping the glazed wax off. It doesn't work that way.
It should go without saying, all of this should be done with paint that is cool to the touch. Do not do anything in direct sunlight unless it's cold outside. You do not want to be working with warm/hot paint.
Anyways, your wash mitt doesn't remove the dirt that is in the microscopic pores of the clear coat. You have to use paint cleaning claybar and a claybar lubricant spray to get that. I really like the pinnacle clay.
Once you go over the car with the clay, depending on the condition of the clearcoat (major scratches or minor swirls) you need to use an orbital buffer with the appropriate softness polishing pads and more or less gritty polishing compound. This will smooth out swirl marks and remove any oxidized rain drop marks and stuff like that.
Don't be afraid of damaging your paint/clear coat. Unless you get a heavy cutting compound for deep scratch removal, the orbital buffer and sponge pads can't damage it. If your paint is in pretty good shape (minor swirls) Meguiars ultra finish polish should be all you need and works really well and isn't super expensive.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003LMJP4Q/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Once that's done, you can use either a nice caranuba wax or a polymer acrylic sealant. I really like the Werkstat Jett Acrylic because it doesn't dry all thick and cakey and hard to remove.
Also, one trick I use is to avoid the dried wax/acrylic on plastic molding and trim pieces is to use blue painters tape on the edges. Tape off the badges, logos, etc. Getting dried wax off injection molded plastic can be a pain.
Wax will typically only last about 3 months and acrylic will last 6 or more months. Keeping the car in a garage and limiting exposure to the elements can prolong this. You can apply wax first and then a coat or two of acrylic if you want.
After each wash, use something like blackfire wet diamond or sonus acrylic spritz (I've used and enjoy both) to help preserve the acrylic sealant.
One thing worth noting is that when you wash the car just before you plan to polish/wax, use dish washing liquid as it will efficiently strip off any remaining wax/sealant left on the clear coat.
This is just the tip of the iceberg and car detailing is a very deep rabbit hole but doesn't HAVE to be expensive. A good polisher like a porter cable or griot's garage random buffer is a great investment and much cheaper these days than what they used to be. If you decide to get one, the cobra cross groove pads are great and you will need about 4 of them as they will collect a lot of dirt during the process of polishing so use one per side of the car.
Sorry here ya go LINK
If it's just paint transfer, you should be able to clean it off then polish the surface. If there's any scratching into the clear coat, I've heard good things about this 3M kit: https://www.amazon.com/3M-39071-Scratch-Removal-System/dp/B003NS5NK8
This should do the trick
a couple weeks back, i went to a drive in theatre and scratched the shit out of my car by turning into a pole. i was really pissed and figured the damage would easily cost 200+. it actually looked very similar to the scratch on your car.
i looked around the internet and found the 3m scratch removal system which i bought at walmart. i attached it to a drill, followed the instructions and basically the scratches were non-existant (except for one really deep one). i would totally recommend you trying it (it'll save you some money and an eye-sore)
the repairs you describe are not necessarily a money pit. fixing the scratches is purely cosmetic, and you could maybe do it yourself with a $50 kit from AutoZone to save money. https://www.amazon.com/3M-39071-Scratch-Removal-System/dp/B003NS5NK8
sounds like you have car fever and want an upgrade.
You might try something like this
The car is a 2015 Subaru Forester with Pearl White paint. I got quoted $250 to fix this, but I am wondering if it's just easier to do it myself. I am looking at a 3M Scratch Removal System on Amazon and wondering if I could get away with just this? Or would I need to re-paint it also since it looks deeper than surface level at some parts.
Not sure if I should just suck up the $250 and do that or try to do it myself
I bought it on amazon, it came with a bit so you throw it in a drill and go to town.
http://www.amazon.com/AES-Industries-Smart-Eraser-Adaptor/dp/B00488DDB8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1414431992&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=eraser+wheel
If they're adhesive pinstripes, this thing will take the old stripe off in no time at all, and you could either get pinstripe tape, or take it to someone to run the lines with paint, shouldn't be too spendy. I'd talk to a painter if they're painted on, though.
Eraser wheel?
AES Industries 4" Smart Eraser Pad with Drill Adaptor Arbor [Made In USA]
http://amzn.com/B00488DDB8
First of all, here's a link with some pictures: https://imgur.com/a/DdDMX8f
I just bought this car two weekends ago and I'm stoked. I have washed it once (normal two-bucket method, no polish/wax). I'm going to plan for a more in-depth detail this coming or the following weekend, so I'm planning on making some purchases and wanted to run them by you guys! My general plan is do a foam cannon spray, rest a little bit, rinse, decontaminate w/ Griot's Speed Shine and Griot's Synthetic Clay.
After decontamination, in the long run, I would like to put a coat of CQuartz. Beforehand, obviously, I need to remove as many of the swirls/scratches as possible. I don't have any experience yet with compounding/polishing so do you think I should try it first before buying the CQuartz, or should I just go for it?
Here's what I'd like to buy:
I already have some good stuff for cleaning wheels and I've been using Griot's Interior Detailer for the interior and it seems to be doing a good enough job. The interior isn't very dirty so just light cleaning suffices.
As for CQuartz prep, before I am more confident in the paint correction process, should I apply a wax after polishing, or will that just make it more of a pain in the ass to decontaminate the paint when I decide to apply CQuartz in the next month or so? FYI, I'm going to be reading the DA polishing guides on this sub before I buy anything related to that.
Any comments or suggestions on things I have selected?
Thanks!
And just think, some of the suds dripped off BEFORE I got this shot. Here are the links to the Foam Gun/Cannon and the soap:
Foam Gun/Cannon
Soap - Chemical Guys Honeydew Snow Foam
I also grabbed the mitt that was offered with it from Amazon.
I added some soap to the canister with the water to dilute it. I just poured in what I thought was good. My pressure washer is a gas powered Troy from Lowes rated at 2900 PSI.
Hope this helps you out.
This right here. But I go crazy and do 2 coats of Power Lock and 2 coats of 845. And I hit the whole car with D156 after each wash as well.
I've yet to use it. I have a bottle waiting to try but I've had a few ppl tell me about it. I actually used to use Meguiars D156 as a drying aide everytime I washed & it just didn't feel like it did anything. I'm sure it did, but I never got the feeling it was adding any protection or longevity to my wax job.
Maybe someone else will chime in but it seems like some ppl are using these ceramic sprays as their only form of wax/protection. So to me if that's the case then it should definitely be an added benefit to apply over top of Collinite.
Look up some vids on YouTube. There are plenty.
Buy this and be mindblown that you ever needed water in the first place, it's fantastic. I also like to dilute some of it and use it as a quik detail/waxer.
http://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NRWW2012Q-Rinse-Wash-Wax/dp/B00GG9FB8U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462805403&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=optimum+no+rinse+wash+%26+wax
If you mean a spray wax, check out D156 by Meguiar's. Solid spray wax that smells really good, and can be used on the paint and any plastic trim. Not exactly sure what the durability is like, though.
Also if you want it for a bit of a discount, I (and others on here) have a wholesale account with Detailed Image.
X-Press spray is a magical. Think detailer spray, but it actually does something. Dries clear, so you can use it on any surface. I usually spray my car while it's still wet after washing, then just dry it off with a microfiber. Water beads off like everything was rain-x'ed
https://www.amazon.com/MEGUIARS-D15601-Synthetic-X-Press-Fluid_Ounces/dp/B005JPJMI2/
hey thanks for the advice i took into consideration what you suggested and ended with this stuff,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/170694956256?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&amp;_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
http://www.ebay.com/itm/190381853105?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&amp;_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
and maybe this?
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Ultimate-Polish-16-oz/dp/B004HCOE8Q/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_text_y
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound/dp/B001O7PNNM/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_text_y
Maybe try using a very light cutting Polish or Compound and buffing it out with a Dual action buffer.
I use Meguiar's Gold Class for soap and in this picture I used Meguiar's Spray Wax as a drying agent.
My very first wash a few weeks ago I used HydrO2 for a longer lasting hydrophobic sealant.
It's easy to get caught up in all of the information on the internet about detailing. My advice would be to keep it simple. The goal is to keep it clean and prevent swirl marks. Go check out AMMO NYC on YouTube and watch some of Larrys videos. 90% of detailing is a simple concept, prevent dirt or grit from being rubbed again your paint. Foam cannons, 2 bucket washes, air drying, etc. the purpose for all of this is to get as much dirt off without rubbing it into your paint. I bet most of the guys on this sub could achieve great results using the cheapest Walmart products because many have a good understanding of decontamination and technique. The reason we all cringe when we see automatic washes, brushes at self serve washes, squeegees on paint is because it goes again the basic principal of don't rub shit into your paint.
Once you get this principle down you can venture into the money pit that is auto detailing products to achieve even better results.
One thing I would add to your cart is Megs D156, it has a ton of uses and works great as a drying aid.
Meguiar's D15601 Synthetic X-Press Spray Wax - 1 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005JPJMI2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_2vROybTQWAZC2
If you go thru lots of ultimate quick wax, buy Megs Xpress Spray Wax by the gallon. Way cheaper, same product.
MEGUIAR'S D15601 Synthetic X-Press Spray Wax, 128. Fluid_Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005JPJMI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HTbtDbSMXDYET
Just purchased my 2nd grit guard today, in fact! Going to be big ballin with a three bucket system and try a rinseless wash in between actual cleanings which makes me extremely nervous, but everyone swears by it. My car's 7 years old and at 122k miles, so I'm beyond obsessing over every speck, thankfully. Definitely not doing it on a filthy car, though.
https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NRWW2012Q-Rinse-Wash-Wax/dp/B00GG9FB8U
Is that what your talking about? Sorry if I'm sounding dumb, i really don't know anything about this kind of stuff.
I definitely don't use machine or semiDIY washes like this. I wash with this soap and do a hand wash every week or so.
Edit: Typos.
Curious, is this that what you guys are talking about? I wrench on my own cars but I’m such a noob when it comes to detailing lol
Optimum (NRWW2012Q) No Rinse Wash & Wax - 32 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GG9FB8U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qxNWCb7PCWQ18
Thanks. Sounds like it's not going to damage the car, so it's definitely worth trying. FYI, both ONR and Aero do, in fact, claim to be wax. So it's good to know that they, in fact, are not.
Last question, which one is better?
This:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GG9FB8U
Or this one:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D8DR0AO
And would both work while using clay for decontamination?
I use Meguiars Ultimate Liquid Wax every 2-3 months. I wash with Meguiars Wash & Wax in the winter or Gold Class during the rest of the year and then finish with X-Press Spray Wax to refresh my wax coat after every wash. I’ve found that Ford paint/clear coat absolutely loves Meguiars formulas and the routine I use keeps all my Fords shining like wet glass. I don’t use paste waxes or ceramic coatings anymore because they’re such a pain to remove when it’s time to reapply. Liquid wax goes on easy, shines for 2-3 months, and then comes of just as easy so it saves you a ton of time when you have two or three cars in your household to maintain.
Most wheel stuff is pretty much the same but I use Meguiars Hot Rims on my wheels and Hot Shine on my tires around once a month or after every other wash and it keeps them shining beautifully. Keeping a coat of Hot Rims on the wheels prevents brake dust from bonding to them so you can just spray them off to keep them clean between applications.
For my black plastic trim and weather stripping I use 303 Aerospace Protectant once in the fall and once in the spring and it keeps it looking like new plastic and not greasy or overly shiny. The 303 has UV protection that prevents fading as well.
Hope this helps! This isn't an exhaustive list of the best professional products but some of the best top rated affordable and highly rated by forums and high subscriber YouTubers. I'll try to answer questions as they come. Thanks for all tye comments and positive/critical feedback. Promise is all helps in the end!
Wash/Decontamination
Wheels/Tires
Compounding/Polishing
Finshing Wax/Protectant/Plastic & Trim Restorer
Interior/Glass Cleaners
Convertible Fabric Top Cleaner/Protectant/Sealer
Microfiber Cloths/Car Drying Microfiber Cloths/Buffing Microfibers/Brushes/Etc.
Newbie here
Someone please recommend an inexpensive and easy to apply sealer. Preferable one available on amazon.
Also - are there any instructional videos on using Nanoskin sponge?
EDIT:
My thoughts were to wash with 2 bucket method, clean up the paint using the nanoskin sponge and then seal it in to give it protection for the coming summer months.
Would any of these work as a sealer? Which one is the best in giving me long term protection? Easiest to apply?
Also - can I use these towels ? Or are they a bad idea?
Meguiar's M21 Mirror Glaze Synthetic Sealant 2.0
Meguiar's M20 Mirror Glaze Polymer Sealant
Meguiars G18216 Ultimate Liquid Wax
I use Meguiar's Ultimate Wax
Reviews are good:
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Ultimate-Liquid-Wax-oz/dp/B004HCM9H4/ref=pd_sim_auto_16
Opinion: I think this at 1/4 of the price will do almost an identical job to the ammo http://www.amazon.com/S100-13700W-Carnauba-Paste-Wax/dp/B000GZQP08/
These carnauba waxes will not last long... especially in heat.
-
Instead of the gold, go with the ultimate like the other dude said, AMAZING wax for the price:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HCM9H4/
This stuff will last a long time. great beading.
You can take paint transfer off your car with some polish and an applicator pad:
Polish: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G19220-Ultimate-Polish-fluid_ounces/dp/B004HCOE8Q/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=meguiars%2Bpolish&qid=1556888366&s=gateway&sr=8-3&th=1
Applicator: https://www.amazon.com/Viking-Car-Care-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B001GJ9JV0/ref=sr_1_3?crid=TF14W8WDIISK&keywords=polish%2Bapplicator&qid=1556888486&s=gateway&sprefix=polish%2Bappl%2Caps%2C131&sr=8-3&th=1
I've used this method before, works great. Just remember to clean the area before and after, and consider adding some wax after.
Here is the desktop version of your link
Definitely don't do that! That's a paint thinner and could end up way worse.
My first line of advice would be to go to a detailing shop and tell them you know it won't end up perfect but you'd like a quote. It shouldn't be that much since for them this would be a quick fix - it will still be somewhat noticeable but a lot less obvious.
For the DIY method you'll want
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004HCOE8Q/ref=pd_aw_fbt_auto_img_2?refRID=0J677CETDDQ5SWT21DE9
Which you can put on this
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BUFWL4C/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1419064284&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
What you'll want to do is get some water mixed with dawn dish soap in a bucket and wash the area around the scrape using a microfiber cloth.
Then let it dry.
Next you'll put some of the polish on the pad and go to town on the scrape.
This is what I'd recommend BUT I've never done it by hand so I can't accurately tell you how long it will take. I would start with maybe the first inch or two of the scrape to see how long that takes you.
As long as you're using the pad you shouldn't have the "hand marks" issue the person above mentioned. People put these pads on machines that move a lot quicker than a person would ever be able to.
>Best seat covers?
Get permaplate option, this will cover external and interior. Enjoy the seats without seat covers, I did put a seat cover so the baby car seat was on the cover.
>Best dash cams?
I really want this dash cam Blackvue DR590, saving up for one.
>Charging cable ok in weather?
I have been doing research on Chargepoint level 2 home charger. Its weather proof and if you install the 220v 32A version you can charge your car in 2 hours.
>Battery efficiency on the highway?
I only had my Prius Prime for a week now, hybrid works well. Drive in B mode and plan out your trips so you can charge at your destination. For example, we started to go to Target because they have a Chargepoint station. We shop for about 2 hours and by the time we get back to the car is fully charged. We can do all of our shopping using EV only.
>Toyota service centers only?
I got the extended maintenance plan so yes for me only Toyota service.
>Get that extended warranty or no?
I got the 7 year extended maintenance because I already know how much the dealer ship will charge for normal maintenance. I just want to have the peace of mind knowing everything is covered and did not want to deal is any issues. Plus if you get it during purchase I believe its at a bigger discount. Because I sign up for it the dealer ship gave me LoJack for free and 72 month financing 0 APR.
>Any reassurance that I made the right choice not waiting for the 2018?
I was thinking the something, at the moment you have a big advantage because they are trying to sell off the rest of the 2017 to make room for the 2018 models. I want to say you have more power to haggle, for example I was able to get 72 month 0 APR financing, free LoJack and $3000 off the asking price because I mention the local special and because I was prior military.
Additional accessories:
Black License Plate Frame
Auto Document Case
Neck Pillow
No Rinse Wash & Wax
Congratulation on the new car!
Here it is cheaper: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005JPJMI2?pc_redir=1398611072&amp;amp;robot_redir=1
Yes. It's the same stuff.
D156 is the "pro" version of the ultimate spray wax.
I agree with /u/Pinkman2012. Don't get the Eagle One stuff though. I've used it in the past, and at least for me, it was weirdly hard to remove. I REALLY like D156. That stuff is fantastic. Save some money and get the gallon. Once you use it once, you'll use it a LOT because of how great it is.
http://amzn.com/B005JPJMI2
Here are links to all items used or mentioned in this video:
EQUIPMENT:
Sun Joe SPX4001 2030 PSI 1.76 GPM 14.5 Amp Electric Pressure Washer w/ Pressure Select Technology & Hose Reel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBV3LPV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_h74uCbXEB81HB
Sun Joe SPX-UQC Universal Brass/Aluminum Pressure Washer Garden Hose Quick-Connect Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HH3V1Z0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.74uCbWV6TH05
McKillans Foam Cannon Professional Grade Adjustable Lance Pressure Washer Jet Wash with 1/4” Quick Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D6KPV3G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GN5uCbG88X0C2
Extra Bonus! Includes 3 Additional Filters - Metro Vac Revolution W/ 30 Ft Hose - Model MB-3CD SWB - 30 - Air Force Master Blaster Car & Motorcycle Air Dryer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0711L4Y6F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IS5uCbZ4QRY1C
https://simplechuck.com/
Amazon:
Double Chuck https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072QRNWY8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5m5uCbRTN1SPV
https://www.autogeek.net/ps-beadmaker-sprayer.html?productid=ps-beadmaker-sprayer&amp;channelid=FROOG&amp;utm_source=CSEs&amp;utm_medium=GoogleProductSearch&amp;utm_campaign=CSE&amp;utm_campaign=1504990722&amp;utm_source=google&amp;utm_medium=cpc&amp;utm_content=287205172222&amp;utm_term=&amp;gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzafHqKCb4AIVARx9Ch2RlwD6EAQYByABEgJcZvD_BwE
CHEMICALS:
Chemical Guys CWS_110 Honeydew Snow Foam Car Wash Soap and Cleanser (1 Gal) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009OTW646/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_594uCbGY470D2
https://www.theragcompany.com/p-s-bead-maker-paint-protectant-gallon-128-oz/
Optimum (NR2010G) No Rinse Wash & Shine - 1 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GG9FK2M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RE5uCbVH68G0R
Hope's Perfect Glass Cleaner, 2 Piece, 32 Oz. Spray Bottle and 64 Oz. Refill Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ALK3I52/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bI5uCbW6A0HWF
Chemical Guys CWS_201 Microfiber Wash Cleaning Detergent Concentrate (1 Gal) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001W91J8K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9K5uCbQSX7V7A
OTHER SUPPLIES:
https://www.theragcompany.com/value-bundle-cyclone-wash-mitt-premium-korean-microfiber-2-pack/
https://www.theragcompany.com/value-bundle-eagle-edgeless-600-16-x-16-towel-grey-5-pack/
https://www.theragcompany.com/value-bundle-16-x-16-creature-edgeless-dual-pile-towel-5-pack/
https://www.theragcompany.com/value-bundle-16-x-24-eagle-edgeless-500-microfiber-towels-3-pack/
Similar Wheel Brush
AmazonBasics Wheel Brush, Long Handle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073P7FSW5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ml5uCb5R63RHP
Quik Shot - 16 Ounce Plastic Flask with a Built-in 1 Ounce Shot Glass Chamber https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RM5FI5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_STjvCb7H18HTF
Chemical Guys CWS_110 Honeydew Snow Foam Car Wash Soap and Cleanser (1 Gal) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009OTW646/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_r7je6cdN3q2ZJ
I use this soap with the sunjoe foam cannon on a sunjoe pressure washer
I use Honeydew Snow Foam and a Foam Cannon
I use Optimum No Rinse Wash and Wax. Take a bucket with two gallons of water, add a cap full of this stuff, soak 4-5 microfiber towels and wipe all the grime off. Fold each microfiber into quarters and flip through the sides once they get dirty. If its really dirty or has some caked on grime, I'll fill a spray bottle with a mixture of the stuff and pre-treat the area. Dry with a dry microfiber. Cleans great, leaves a nice layer of wax, and has high lubricity so there is a lower risk of swirling up your paint.
I too have a love hate relationship with black cars. I used to own a 1995 Mercedes S420 in black. They used a different kind of paint back then that I swear is so much deeper/clearer than anything you can get today. It was beautiful for all of 20 minutes. What helped me keep it clean for longer between washes is using a California Car Duster pretty much every day/every other day. It helps that it never rained though, so judging from the amount of trees in your picture, it must rain fairly regularly where you are.
I agree with both of these comments. Black looks really good with the new body style... feels like my daily driver is the Batmobile. Keeping it shiny is a never ending battle, though.
I've found that this car duster helps to keep it looking at least presentable between weekly washes. Definitely not looking forward to all the salt and sand and misc grime that comes with winter.
get a California Duster - a quick swipe and the car is clean again
http://www.amazon.com/California-Car-Duster-62442-Standard/dp/B00008RW9U
My husband dusts his car everyday and loves the [California duster]
(http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00008RW9U/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1449581143&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;keywords=california+duster&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41J3fWzjf2L&amp;ref=plSrch) I got him. Also, interior spray and exterior spray. Some microfiber cloths. As you can see, we try to keep to keep the car in pretty pristine condition. I guess this isn't just specially for Teslas but I thought I would give my 2 cents.
Hey you can try hand buffing it with Meguiar's ScratchX. http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10307-ScratchX-2-0-oz/dp/B0002UNON8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1404933405&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=scratchX
It will take a lot of work, but you should be able to visibly improve it with a lot of elbow grease. Wash car, use clay bar, wash car again, scratch x the scratch, apply polish, apply wax. When using scratchX, work in a shaded area, work a 6 inch area of the car at a time, spread the product evenly and work it in circles for about a couple minutes. Repeat 5-10 times. Then cover with a wax protectant / sealant.
Products I recommend:
Meguiar's Scratch X, Meguiar's Soft Foam "4 applicator pads, Meguiar's Supreme shine microfiber, Gold Class wax.
This kit has everything you need, but I recommend picking up some extra foam applicator pads and supreme shine microfiber towels: http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G55032-Complete-Car-Care/dp/B0012ZEZ8A/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1404932960&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=scratchX
they don't look deep and I wouldn't be surprised if scratch x would take em right out (or make them nearly invisible).
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10307-ScratchX-2-0-Scratch/dp/B0002UNON8
this stuff works amazing:
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10307-ScratchX-2-0-oz/dp/B0002UNON8
edit: you should be able to find it at your local auto parts store.
This'll fix ya right up:
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10307-ScratchX-2-0-oz/dp/B0002UNON8
This stuff is amazing: http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10307-ScratchX-2-0-oz/dp/B0002UNON8
Pics will help.
I have had a lot of success with this product: http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G-10307-G10307-ScratchX/dp/B0002UNON8
If you live in North America you can find it at any auto store.
PM me for more info.
Try scratchX 2.0! I found this in another thread for getting scratches out of old 3DS's. I actually used it on my top screen and I'm incredibly happy with the results. Two major gashes and a lot of microscratches from stupidly using a CD cleaner on it effectively gone.
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10307-ScratchX-2-0-oz/dp/B0002UNON8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1425917884&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=scratchx+2.0
For the scuffing try Meguiars scratch fix 2.0. I've had pretty bad scratching that it's removed for me in the past.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002UNON8/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485032368&amp;sr=8-1-fkmr0&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=meguiars+scratch+fix
Try this first:
http://amzn.com/B0002UNON8
If that doesn't work try this:
http://amzn.com/B003NS5NK8
Check out these forums for more information on paint care etc...
http://www.autopia.org/
This is what you want.
http://www.amazon.com/Kool-It-96030-Evaporator-Heater-Cleaner/dp/B0007PHD0S/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1404272095&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=kool+it
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bi22mdXj3wM
How to do it
The product: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007PHD0S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BXWxDbZHY1GHT
I’m going to do this next week, and I bought 2 filters from the Service Center today to make sure I keep this as freshly cleaned as possible. So take your time to do it right.
https://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-96030-Evaporator-Heater-Cleaner/dp/B0007PHD0S
This seems like the best bet..Unfortunately I can't find the Klima cleaner on Amazon anymore.. it says "Currently unavailable.
We don't know when or if this item will be back in stock."
I guess this is the same thing:
Lubegard 96030 Kool-It Evaporator and Heater Foam Cleaner
As a follow up to my own post, after doing some additional research on the smell thing, I went on Amazon and grabbed a bottle of this stuff with next day shipping. Maybe all it needs is a good AC flush.
Lubegard 96030 Kool-It Evaporator and Heater Foam Cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007PHD0S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5NkGzbNJC1EYP
https://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-96030-Evaporator-Heater-Cleaner/dp/B0007PHD0S?ref_=ast_sto_dp
Isn't that it on Amazon Prime?
Buy a can of Kool-it. Detach the drain tube from the heater box. Attach the tube from the can and hit the trigger. It fills the evap core with a foam that kills the mold and bacteria.
https://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-96030-Evaporator-Heater-Cleaner/dp/B0007PHD0S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504635677&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=kool-it
Did the same thing in March and filled it with epoxy. Hasn't spread yet
Pictures:
http://imgur.com/a/RLQIJvP
Epoxy:
Permatex 81730 Flowable Silicone Windshield and Glass Sealer, 1.5 oz. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000BKEBO0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mMS4CbN4Q0WC8
Claiming comprehensive shouldn't raise your rates but it might. Fiance for her car broken into last month and we had to get rear and back Windows replaced. Plan renewal is in June and it went up $20 more a month. Not terrible but still sucks. Geico obviously said it wasn't because of it but I bet it is
Additionally, my rear window is tinted and has the special color shifting uv coating for the entire panel. I would have to pay to get it retinted and the new panel likely won't have the color shifting coating
Exactly that. The clear stuff you use for windshield repair. You take the old pads out and carefully flow that into the response groove.
It only has 8,500 miles on it. I was thinking it was defective, but the problem exists on both sides. It doesn't look like a manufacturing defect, just a crappy design. Here are some pics of both sides
As you can see, the side view mirror moldings look finished, not damaged and are mirror images of each other. The rubber seals go in passed (past?) the side view mirror just a few millimeters. To make matters worse, you can see that there is a channel in between the outer part of the seal and the part that touches the window...which means that pretty much any water that collects near that corner can easily run down the channel, into the gap, and down into the door. I know it would be temporary and I might have to reapply the gunk every now and then (which isn't a problem since I live in San Diego where it rains 7 times a year), but I would hope that there is something that can easily plug the hole up. Maybe something like this?
Had a double rainbow as well! Loved it!
seconding the seam sealing at home. Also, don't pay for the seam sealant from dealers. Go to an auto parts store or amazon and get flowable silicone. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BKEBO0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It's the same stuff but waaay cheaper. Also seconding waterproof testing before the trail. I took a garden hose and drenched it, don't just splash water on it and hope for the best. Its a lot easier to reseal it at home than get soaked on the trail.
>The key to keeping dust down is adding a dryer sheet while cleaning.
Yep.
I use cheapie new ones (Kroger house brand) & they turn gray pretty quickly. I also wet tumble after depriming (I like clean primer pockets & case interiors) and dry tumble with lizard litter and an occasional capful of NuFinish. After adding the polish run the tumbler 5-10 minutes before adding brass - avoids clumping.
I wet tumble after depriming to avoid running grimy cases thru my sizing dies, do all my case prep (size, trim, chamfer, flash hole uniforming rifle cases) then dry tumble to deal with the brass particles from prep.
Between Armor-All car was for wet tumbling and Nu-finish for dry, the result is shiny cases inside and out that stay bright until I get around to loading them.
yep i use a rotary buffer to buff, then [NuFinish] (http://www.amazon.com/Nu-Finish-Liquid-Car-Polish/dp/B000BPSW7C/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408709206&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=nu+finish) to polish. I'm sure any good polish will work, but that's what i use. and i messed up my comment above. You buff, THEN polish.
Also, if you don't have a spray gun, you can use a 2k bomb clear can not be found in stores. it's does better than a normal spray can of clear coat. a normal spray can probably wouldn't look too bad, but the 2k stuff will do better. the 2k can has a hardener that makes the lens much more UV resistant to fading. Since you seem like you are going to try this: let the clear coats sit and dry a day, then run that over with a 2k sandpaper before you buff then polish it.
Use a squirt of Nu Finish in your tumbler for each load you do. It'll help polish the brass better than just the lizard bedding will. Should be readily available at your local Wal-Mart, too.
Personally I avoid anything wax based. I refer to used the petroleum based Nu Finish because it doesn't leave residue like wax, and it goes on and comes off easy. I started using it on my airplanes and have since found it is good for cars, to, even plastic trim.
Just did a hand-wash with microfiber towels, wiped the car dry, and then used a product called Nu Finish for the wax. It's like 10 dollars a bottle and is super easy to use - I poured the liquid on the damp towel I washed the car with to apply the wax, then let the wax dry to a haze, and then buffed out with a dry microfiber towel. Wash/wax took about an hour to do myself, which is worth it considering how long a the Nu-Finish stays on.
EDIT: Amazon link
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BPSW7C/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465775620&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=Nu+Finish&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41TQElpWDtL&amp;ref=plSrch
You have quite the garage going there, and a good list of car care items. I was keeping up with a family and 3 cars, so my extra detail time was never quite abundant over the last few years. I previously had an arsenal of products like you, but narrowed it down to 3 to simplify and ease my busy life. I really liked the Nu Finish Liquid Polish and then gravitated to the wash last to cover was the plastic, rubber, and leather protectant. I had a couple different products, but the NuVinyl did all, including leather, that armor-all (basic) does not. As mentioned, I just had to simplify for many reasons and this worked for me. It may not be the professional kit of choice, but 3 products help keep my 3 cars in great shape.
And as far as applying compounds, polishes, or waxes, I spent years doing it by hand until I gave Meguiar's DA Power System a shot. Costs more then by hand (initially), but it goes quicker and produces a better product. This is the only product I tried, I am sure there are plenty of other options out there. Good luck cleaning!
I've used adhesive remover spray. The black gunk melted right off without scrubbing. I think it's this stuff.
Thanks I will give that a try. I was also looking at 3M 03618 Adhesive remover. Does anyone have any experience with this or similar products? I'm mostly worried about it damaging the plastic.
http://www.amazon.com/3M-03618-Adhesive-Remover-oz/dp/B000BQYA7W
I use 3M adhesive remover for this kind of thing. My wheels have adhesive tape from previous balancing weights. This stuff removed them fairly easily. I needed several applications and had to let it dwell for a few minutes each time. But it removes sticky stuff very well. If you use this, test on a small area first to make sure it's safe.
It's so strange you posted this question, because I have a similar problem. A brand new car I just bought has finger smear marks on the edges of the back window. Ammonia based glass cleaner had no effect. It appears to be some kind of dried adhesive, similar to super glue. I'm guessing it's what was used to glue the back window on and the idiots at the factory weren't careful. It's right around the defroster grid near the edge. If it was on the outside, I'd be able to use a razor blade. Unfortunately, the dealership I bought the car from is in another state. The service manager suggested 3M Adhesive Remover, but there are various part numbers to confuse me:
https://www.amazon.com/3M-03618-Adhesive-Remover-oz/dp/B000BQYA7W/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536818222&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=3m+adhesive+remover
https://www.amazon.com/3M-38983-General-Purpose-Adhesive/dp/B004EBNTYK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536818222&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=3m+adhesive+remover
https://www.amazon.com/3M-General-Purpose-Adhesive-Cleaner/dp/B0002NUO6K/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536818222&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=3m+adhesive+remover
I contacted 3M about this twice and and this was their only response:
"We’re uncertain as to what the residue Is but it will likely work. If used properly I wouldn’t expect any harm to come from trying it. Use nitrile gloves: Spray it onto a clean detailing cloth and use it to remove the adhesive.
Any of the part numbers they mention should work, these vary due to package size options and volatile organic compound restrictions."
The second part to their answer doesn't make sense to me, and I'm not sure what the qualifications were of the person who responded. I responded by asking which one was the least aggressive and didn't get a response.
3M Adhesive Remover. You want some good air circulation when using this stuff though.
It's pretty simple, park the car outside on a warm day 75F or warmer then using a blow dryer on high heat up the badge and the fender near the badge until it's hot to the touch. Using dental floss or a Luxe de-badge kit the badge slowly work it off.
&#x200B;
You can easily clear the area of leftover adhesive with 3M adhesive remover, then Clean the whole area with 70% or higher rubbing alcohol. Finally use a clay bar included on the Luxe de-badge kit or can be purchased from most auto stores, this will remove any contaminants that will cause imperfections in the decal.
&#x200B;
When applying the decal you will need to follow the instructions based on the brand you purchase. Some decals have air release which will be a DRY apply, while others require an application fluid (NOT SPRY WAX!!!!) this fluid is usually proper mixture water, alcohol and a mild detergent.
&#x200B;
Hope that helps
I used Optimum No Rinse during the winter time, because it allows for small parts of the car at a time, without requiring rinse.
But invest is a Waffle Weave Drying Towel, a couple bucket's from wal-mart (like $2.50 a bucket) and some Grit Guards for each bucket and your in business. You can use any soft wash mitt, and there are a lot of different brands and styles out there, and I also recommend a Detailer or Wax (I prefer quick detailer during winter-times so I can just spray and wipe and it keeps the snow and crap off for a good amount of time.)
I personally like Meguiar's Ultimate Quick Detailer. Just spray it on your clean spot, rub it in all over, then single wipe it off with the dry side of the terry cloth, and you get some bead action next time it rains!
Here's a long thing I wrote for a friend just getting started. It was an email and i don't feel like fixing links.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050IQH9K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GG9FI8I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQZFM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/Mothers-07240-California-Gold-System/dp/B0002U2V1Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1476666101&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=mother%27s+detail+kit
https://smile.amazon.com/Viking-862400-Blue-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1476666178&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=wax+applicator
https://smile.amazon.com/Detailing-Multi-Use-Microfiber-Professional-Dual-Pile/dp/B01L4L4L26/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1476666651&amp;sr=8-17&amp;keywords=microfiber+buffing+towel
https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3002-Microfiber-Wash-Mitt/dp/B000RXKR6M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1476667551&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=meguiars+wash+mitt
https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05664-California-Gold-Wash/dp/B0009H51B2/ref=sr_1_9?rps=1&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1476668207&amp;sr=8-9&amp;keywords=car+wash&amp;refinements=p_85%3A2470955011
Do you have 2 buckets to use? Always set one bucket up with the soap water, and the other with just water. Soak up your mitt, wash the car, rinse the mitt, then soak again in the soap water. This helps reduce contaminants. If you want to go the extra mile, get these for the buckets to prevent dirt from swashing around the bucket:
https://smile.amazon.com/Grit-Guard-Insert-Red-Diameter/dp/B000N3W8J0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1476667750&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=grit+guard
It fits in a home depot bucket.
If you have particularly pesky tar or bugs on the car, you'll need this that you can get from any autozone type store:
https://smile.amazon.com/Stoner-Car-Care-Tarminator-Remover/dp/B0002LBGWI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1476667917&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=tarminator
WARNING **
When using the power lock (or any sealant / non-liquid wax), DO NOT let it touch any black plastic or rubber parts of the car!!!!! If it does, just wipe it off with a wet micro fiber cloth. Failure to follow this will result in a white hue on the black piece. You could always painter's tape off those areas that are hard to avoid.
Steps for this process:
1b) Bring the car to an area with as little sun light as possible for the next steps!
Price isn't so important, last year I purchased this from my local bike shop for $14 after looking up reviews on it. Just make sure its a wax, so that it stays on the chain and reduces friction, not a liquid that flings off. I clean and lube my chain a ton and I still have more than half a can left after 2 summers of riding.
Try some chain wax spray, that stuff sticks to the chain very nicely.
Definitely something I've considered. But I really like the smell of the oil in a spraycan that I use....
I think upgrading my headlights to HID projectors is going to be my next project when I can scrape together the money.
Heres how I detail both of my DR650s. As some of you might know I'm 100% rinseless. I don't think theres a good way to clean a chain with out water so I have always done a 2BM wash on my motorcycles. Now for motorcycle customers I don't clean their chain that is on them. That is a primary maintenance item that I will not do. The risk is far greater then the reward. Hope you enjoy the video! Edit: Side note took me about an hour for one of the bikes so about 2 hours for both.
List of everything I used:
Think thats everything. Enjoy!!
Unless you can bang out that from the back there's no hope to straighten it with home tools. It can be done from the outside with a stud welder + puller (video) but this is something best left to pros. It's much easier to replace the door for ~$200-500 at a junk yard, search car-part.com -- thats what my insurance did for a similar issue, came out to almost a thousand bucks at the body shop when you add the paint and labor on. But if you do it yourself you might be able to just get one in the right color and not paint it.
If you just want to fix the paint, just do the touch up. Call your dealer to get a small jar in the right color. You can fix the other less deep scratches with polish (heavy cut, light cut).
Also check this channel out if you are interested in how professionals do it: https://www.youtube.com/user/tussik01/videos
Hi, I'm really new to detailing so can you explain what you did exactly? I googled your terms and got these.
http://www.detailedimage.com/Meguiars-M43/Ultra-Cut-Compound-M105-P388/32-oz-S1/
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B001O7PNXC
They are both polishes, right? Those sure are expensive..And you need a orange pad? A white pad? I see those pads in the first link I posted, detailedimage..The total cost for a newbie to do this is like around $60-70? Damn..I might have to live with the few scratches. Trying to invest in buckets and the whole newbie starter kit.
Torq22DDA: Torq22dD
Pads: ChemicalGuys orange then white for finish
Compound: Meguiar's M205
Ceramic Coat: Gtechniq Crystal Serum Light (didn’t use the exo to humid for application)
Sealant: Gtechniq C2 Liquid Crystal v3
Microfiber: Chemical Guys MIC_507_06 Professional Grade Premium Microfiber Towel, Gold (do not skimp out on your MF!)
Sorry, I called it the wrong name. It's Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish. My plan was to use M105 OR M205 to polish, and NXT to wax. In between those two steps I was told I could use Isopropyl Alcohol. I don't know if this is true or not but that's definitely a cheaper option, lol.
Wash and Wax the plane with whatever, people make a big deal and spend way to much money on this stuff. I bought the Wash Wax Airplane Wash - doesn't work any better than dish soap ....
If you want to buff and polish the paint then use a good product like Jet Seal with a random buffer. Even this stuff is expensive for what it is ...
https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-WAC_118_16-Anti-Corrosion-Protectant/dp/B001TFE38A/
https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-WAC_201_16-Butter-Wet/dp/B00FALVU8A/
Then buy a $4 bottle of turtle wax wax and dry - after every flight spray and wipe down all the leading edges and bug laden surfaces.
Once a coat of wax is on there - microfiber cloth and turtle wax will take all the bug and gunk off in a single wipe with minimal pressure ... It will work on oil spray from prop seals too
https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-T-9-1-Step-Dry/dp/B0007TV6M0/
Save the $ for 100LL
Jescar Power Lock Polymer Sealant + Collinite 845
the same as ?
CG Butter Wet Wax + CG JetSeal?
I recommend not starring the car at all. All those little stickers can be pretty hard to get off, and may cause slight damage.
Also, I doubt that your paint is swirl free. If you are asking a no0b question (which is fine), you probably aren't looking correctly. The dealership yo-yo that washed your car probably caused a bit of swirling. Your white car will be exceptionally good at covering it, and that one guy can't do that much damage.
You don't need this porter thing. Check out the DetailedImage link over there ( I would not buy directly from them as they charge way, way too much. Find the products on Amazon or something).--->
You only need the power tools if you're going to polish/compound (which are exclusively for removing paint imperfections). But don't get too excited about not spending money, as you have sealant and wax to get.
The pads you need are applicator pads (not pads used on power tools). They are pads used to apply sealant and wax. Applying sealant, and then wax is what you do to protect your paint. Keep in mind that you'll need enough microfibers to dry your car AND wipe off excess sealant/wax. Also keep in mind washing the microfibers in such a way that won't destroy them (Never use fabric softener.).
Suggestions if you have no idea where to start: great sealant, pr0saws 1337 haxzorz wax, good clay bar, sweet clay lube, Microfiber detergent
All this advice comes at a price, of course: posting your before washing and after pics
When I had the one on my first 5th wheel apart, I wrapped it with EternaBond tape then put the hose clamp over that. Not cheap, but you should have a roll of it in the camper anyway. Great if you have to make an emergency roof repair.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003LMGDHI/ref=psdc_15718371_t1_B0002UQAM0
Am I on the right track? I am currently looking for all the products I need to completely detail my car. I know there is no way I could purchase all of these at once, so I am planning on purchasing the major ones first and adding the others over time. I have spent almost two weeks researching on everything I need to do. There is so much information and so many opinions that it is hard to find a definitive answer on what I need.
> Wheel
Wheel soap:
Wheel cleaner:
Tire dressing:
Wheel wax:
> Paint
Paint soap:
Paint soap addition:
Leaf blower:
Clay bar:
Dual action polisher:
Backing plate:
Pad:
Compound:
Polish:
Sealant/wax:
> Interior
Carpet cleaner:
Dashboard cleaner:
Leather cleaner:
Leather conditioner:
Glass cleaner:
There are a bunch of other tools not listed here, but the ones listed above are the areas I am most concerned about.
> Other Concerns
I am still anxious about spraying water in my engine bay, so I decided to use a spray bottle with soap and water and a microfiber towel to wipe down the engine bay while it is still decently clean. Can I use diluted Meguiar's D143 or will I have to purchase Meguiar's D101 instead? Can the Optimum Tire Gel be used on the black plastics of the engine bay, as well as the other black trims of my car?
I want to protect my interior, in addition to cleaning it. I am very confused on what product I need to use to protect my dashboard from the sun. The same goes for the leather seats, where the creases are forming. I have been using a conditioner (although I am unsure of the exact name) to slow down the crease formation. Should I use the same product for both the dashboard and leather seats (with Lexol Conditioner on top of that)? I have heard of Leatherique Leather Rejuvenator/Prestine Clean, but I am unsure of when I should use that.
I was looking at this stuff but I have no idea if it'll work for this type of damage.
How many passes do you do per section with your random orbital?
In my situation, I've got a car with spiderweb swirls on the paint. They cover a lot of paint but are very light scratches; they can only be seen in direct sunlight.
I have used these following products on my swirls but it seems that they did absolutely nothing to the paint or the scratches.
meguiar's buffing pad
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UQAXY/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01
meguiar's m105
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003LMGDHI/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i07
Do you have different suggestions for products or am I most likely using incorrect technique?
Been looking to detail my car, and while I am still getting my stuff along with trying to find the time to do it.. I've started to come up with a couple of questions.
The windshield has it's fair share of micro pitting and surface knicks (not cracks). And since a magic eraser acts as a very fine sandpaper I was thinking that it could possibly help to smooth out some of the pitting and knicks just to make these spots less noticeable when light hits it at certain angles.
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Currently they are not that faded, but id like to keep them up before they get to that point.
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I have microfiber towels for cleaning and buffing but not sure what type of applicator pads to use.
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Also, any recommendations on a good / reliable, but repetitively inexpensive shopvac?
Not looking for one with a bag or anything, just something for cleaning out the interior as those dam gas station vacuums are not worth 2$ for 4 minutes when you cant even get under the seats..
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Thank you for any and all feedback!
I recently saw a 3M scratch removal system that was recommended on another post. I'm going to try this on my black Toyota 4runner. They are available on amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/3M-39071-Scratch-Removal-System/dp/B003NS5NK8/ref=cm_wl_huc_item
The reviews seem overall positive.
You don't need a paint shop for that. The paint is fine, it's just the clear coat that is scratched.
http://www.amazon.com/3M-39071-Scratch-Removal-System/dp/B003NS5NK8/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1398438469&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=3m+auto+body+repair
Just a little elbow grease
Scratch Removal Kit
It should work as long as the scratch hasn't gotten to the actual paint. I Used it on my motorcycle to clean up a scratch. Just need an 20v Drill. It's just a wet sand and buff process but it comes with all the stuff you need.
3m makes a polishing kit for use with a power drill if you don't have a DA polisher. Comes with sandpaper, compound, Polish, and polishing pads. Just be careful to keep the pad moving. Lots of YouTube videos.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-39071-Scratch-Removal-System/dp/B003NS5NK8
Hi all!
I have my end-of-lease inspection coming up in 5 days. 2014 Chevy Cruze in perfect working shape. Two items I know of:
Both areas are tough to see unless you really look for them, especially roof. But I imagine an inspector will see them.
Any tips on dealing with these? Today I ordered this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003NS5NK8
Any other thoughts or experiences when turning in a lease? I will be washing/waxing the car/wheels and detailing all around, vacuum/dress interior, etc.
EDIT: Seeing that this 3M kit requires sanding, I canceled for now. Waiting to hear from you experts on what might work...thanks!!! :D
Eraser Wheel
Grab one of these from Amazon or locally if you can find one and hook it up to a drill. People (myself included) use these to remove decals and such from vehicles. So if it is safe enough to use on automotive paint you can be assured that it won't hurt your flooring.
You will have it up in no time with one of these.
A plastic razor blade and some liquid adhesive remover will work as others have mentioned. Another alternative is a eraser wheel. You just need to be careful with these as they create a lot of friction and burn plastic fairly easily. They are the correct tool for the job though.
I upgraded my method this time around and it went a lot better than my last car. I used a heat gun to warm up the badge (kept checking surrounding paint with my fingertips) then used some braided fishing line (25lb) with zip ties on each end to save my fingers. Sawing motion with the line behind the badge. After I carefully pop it off I did a combo of rolling the adhesive off (quick heat gun helps) with my fingers and using an eraser pad at low RPMs. Those things are amazing and it did zero damage to the paint. Rinse, wash and wax the area afterwards. If the truck wasn't brand new it might need some paint correction to make things look right.
Way cheaper than what the dealership wanted and only took me 30mins.
This tool has worked well for me, removed a lot of stickers and decals
If the paint/plastic is in good condition-
MEGUIAR'S G18216 Ultimate Liquid Wax, 16 Fluid Ounces, 1 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004HCM9H4/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_0.XpDbN62H181
If the clearcoat has some surface rubbing "haze" you might need to clean it up before wax.
Meguiar's G19220 Ultimate Polish, 20 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X413M7J/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_QbYpDbKCBNB2M
Just remember wax more often in summer heat, and dont over polish, because its basically sanding down surface to smooth out problems.
I used Meguiars Ultimate Liquid Wax http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G18216-Ultimate-Liquid-Wax/dp/B004HCM9H4. And thanks for the positive thoughts!
I personally have only used the Nanoskin sponge to decontaminate my car. It's a highly recommended clay alternative.
As for a sealant/wax, I'm not sure if my recommendations will be of any use since I just started detailing my own car over the last ~6 months. I have only tried one wax (Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid Wax) and one sealant (Opti-Seal). Longevity of the Ultimate Liquid Wax wasn't great IMO. I'd look into Collinite 845 since it's highly regarded and there are plenty of tips/tricks on how to use it.
Honestly, easiest solution may be go to with CarPro Essence or HD Speed. I don't think there are any special tips/tricks on how to use Essence or HD Speed, and both will allow you to polish and seal your paint in one step. Admittedly, I haven't looked into either much, but they are next in line for me to research.
Flowable silicone.
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81730-Flowable-Silicone-Windshield/dp/B000BKEBO0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408764509&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=flowable+silicone
you are putting way too much or change chain lube. I am using chain wax (see here )
Also, I put the chain wax after a ride when the chain is hot. The lube penetrates deeper on the o-rings and on the plus side, you are always ready to ride next time.
Sun Joe SPX3000 Pressure Joe 2030... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CPGMUXW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
DUSICHIN SFL-001 Foam Cannon Snow... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WPKHFA6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Chemical Guys CWS_110 Honeydew... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009OTW646?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I'll look at the product tomorrow morning and post a link to it or something. I have used it several times on my car and it's done an amazing job of just clearing small scratches away. As long as it's not a deep scratch it usually covers it up really well. I do know what I'm talking about, like I've said I've used it a few times and have had good results.
Edit: decided to just go ahead and Google it real quick. Here's a link to the product. Look at the comments, in some people post pictures. Don't have to get all rude before you even attempt to look for anything.