Best external sound cards according to redditors
We found 1,556 Reddit comments discussing the best external sound cards. We ranked the 110 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 1,556 Reddit comments discussing the best external sound cards. We ranked the 110 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
![Sabrent Aluminum USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and Play No Drivers Needed. [Silver] (AU-EMAC)](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/31LvEDScrSL.jpg)
Just a word of warning - I implemented this in my car, and ran into a few hurdles:
Overall, cool project, but I retired my setup!
Hey,
some of you asked for this, so here it is:
HARDWARE:
Raspberry Pi 3
Display: 3.5" Touchscreen
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B071JDSS1W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Sound:
external usb sound card:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01N905VOY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Amp: 5V - 3W stereo
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01MR169J8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Volume Knob:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01G1EWAAG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Speaker: 2" 3W Full Range
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B073XH8KK8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Noise Reduction:
Ground Loop Noise Isolator:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01IETQQQK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Ferrite core:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01E5ALVWQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
SOFTWARE:
I will release the Code (and the 3d printing stuff) as an Open Source project after some refactoring.
thank you for the great response!
I use Beyerdynamic DT990 (600 ohms) for competitive shooters and Sennheiser HD800 for singleplayer/immersive games.
My go-to recommendation is Sivga SV007 with V-MODA BoomPro. If you need sound isolation, then I suggest Status Audio CB-1.
If you're open to using a mic such as Antlion ModMic or Massdrop Minimic, then I have other headphone recommendations and suggestions.
If you want virtual surround sound, then you can use e.g. Astro Mixamp Pro TR, Creative Sound BlasterX G6, or Turtle Beach Elite Pro TAC. I recommend SBX Pro Studio from Creative as a virtual surround sound processor; it has less compression and better positional audio than Dolby Headphone.
 
Setup
---
You attach the BoomPro mic by inserting it directly into the headphone, which replaces the original headphone cable.
The cable terminates in a single 3.5 mm connector, so you can connect it directly to the controller or any other device with a headset jack. If you connect it to a regular headphone jack, then the mic won't work. No mics will. If the device has separate headphone and mic ports, then you need to use a TRRS Y-splitter, which is included with the BoomPro.
To connect the headset to the USB port on PS4, you can use an audio USB adapter.
My recommendations:
At approximately the same volume, I heard no difference between these and the controller. I heard no hiss, hum, crackling, or other noise. The difference in the mic quality was negligible.
 
Sound
---
SV007:
SV007 a well-balanced sound profile. The mid-bass, which is where boom and punch come from, is a little bit boosted. The sub-bass, which is how deep the bass goes and is where rumble comes from, is a little bit reduced. The overall bass is clean. The treble is close to neutral. It's clean, smooth, and crisp. The midrange is clear, not tinny or muffled. The overall clarity is great.
It has a large soundstage, very good imaging and separation, and good to very good detail retrieval for competitive shooters. I assess headphones mainly in Battlefield: Bad Company 2, a multiplayer game I've played for over 3000 hours and I thrive at relying on sound cues.
Soundstage is perceived space and environment of sound. It's width, depth, and height. I mean the type of soundstage that the headphone produces. Many games have a narrow, shallow, and short soundstage. A small soundstage makes the environment around you sound confined or boxed in. With a large soundstage, the environment sounds more spatial and expansive. Imaging is inherent to the audio content. It's how accurately the locations of sounds/objects are reproduced. Soundstage and imaging constitute positional audio, and you could say they are the stereo equivalent of virtual surround sound. Before you make any stances on virtual surround sound, I recommend that you read this post I wrote. Separation is how you discern individual sounds from a range of overlapping sounds. You don't need to be concerned with this if you play competitively.
BoomPro:
You can actually judge for yourself by listening to recordings on YouTube.
I prefer to watch Podcastage for mic reviews.
 
Build, ergonomics, & features
---
SV007:
SV007 has an open design (as you can see with the grilles on the earcups), so sound passes freely in and out, unlike closed headphones which attenuate sound from passing through. The benefits of an open design are generally a larger soundstage and better imaging. If your ears tend to heat up, it may help mitigate this as it allows more airflow and heat to dissipate.
The build is sturdy and lightweight, featuring metal yokes, hinges, and headband. It has no flimsy or squeaky parts. The cups are made of wood. They tilt and swivel and can lie flat. I have average sized ears and the earpads fit around them and don't press them against the inside of the cups. The pads are plush and have a smooth and relatively high-quality protein leather. The headband has decent padding, but the headphone has great weight distribution so it doesn't exert pressure on top of my head and doesn't cause hotspots. Adjusting the headband is smooth and easy and it stays firmly in place. The clamping force is mild and isn't too loose or too tight for my average sized head. The build quality is excellent with a near immaculate finish all around.
BoomPro:
BoomPro has a flexible aluminum neck and a tangle-free, braided cable that's free of microphonics. The game volume and mic mute controls are easy to adjust and don't accidentally adjust themselves when rubbing against your clothes. Adjusting them is smooth and consistent, not scratchy, sluggish, or sticky. The mic is as non-obtrusive as a boom mic can be and is almost unnoticeable in my peripheral vision.
 
^Formatted ^in ^Reddit ^Enhancement ^Suite.
Is some ways they can be yes. The Asus xonar cards all have a design flaw that any kind of internal interference or single going on inside your case is picked up on the mic input. USB sounds cards don't have that issue but cheap one can sometimes pickup interference from other sources, however it's usually far less then right next to your graphics card and CPU.
Sometime like this, https://smile.amazon.com/Sabrent-Aluminum-External-Adapter-AU-EMAC/dp/B00OJ5AV8I/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1486575400&sr=1-4&keywords=usb+sound+card or this, https://smile.amazon.com/Channel-External-Sound-Adapter-Laptop/dp/B01LQENV8G/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1486575400&sr=1-5&keywords=usb+sound+card will have a much less noisy input then your current card, but the headphone out might not be as strong or sound as good as the asus card.
I bought a USB adapter to get audio out.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5ZhQAbSGK1SN1
Some people think it's cheating, but many hackintosh owners just skip the audio driver problem entirely and get a cheap USB-to-audio adapter. Plug it in, plug in a set of speakers, and that's literally all you have to do.
Well... To be honest you did get a audio interface designed to work with guitars and singer style microphones... When what you needed was an external soundcard.
There are major audio interfaces by the music industry. And your cool USB soundcard has some of the more popular ones... Yay! But it does not have what you want. Booo!
Your soundcard/interface is not designed for 3.5mm jacks. so you will need adapters to make it work.
On the front you have two XLR inputs or you can use them as TRS inputs. Pre sonus calls them "2 combo XLR/¼” mic/instrument inputs"
TRS inputs are big headphone jacks... 1/4 inch type. They would go in the middle of the inputs on the front. You would feed your mic in there. How? You can get an adapter that will allow your 3.5mm headphone jack to fit 1/4 headphones to fit the front area. Something like this... Can get them at Radio Shack pretty cheap. Make sure they are stereo and not mono though.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/400307-REG/Sony_PC234S_PC_234S_Mini_Stereo_3_5mm.html
You would need two of them, one for the headphones (labeled "phones") port in the back of the interface, and one for the mic part in the front of the interface.
If you are going to make music you got the right interface. If you are only using it as a really good soundcard, there are others that would fit you better. Like this...
http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1410104831&sr=8-15&keywords=audio+interface
Or if you got monies... this
http://www.amazon.com/Creative-Blaster-Surround-External-SB1560/dp/B00EZT7RE4/ref=dp_ob_title_ce
At the beginning I called one an audio interface and the other a sound card. Audio interfaces are a card that focus on the interface part, meaning the recording/band aspect of music and their connectors.. Sound cards are just making sound like the audio interfaces, but they don't include the band interfaces/ports/jacks and usually go to 3.5mm jacks like your headphones want.
Hope this helps.
Sure.
From Aus : https://www.storedj.com.au/beyerdynamic-dt880-pro-semi-open-studio-headphones-250ohms , I got the 880 pro's but the only difference is the cable and clamping, and looks.
They come in three different resistances, for computer gaming just get 32 ohms, it'll sound like 2% worse than the 250 ohm but go loud off phones and computer gaming soundcards. That said I got the 250's cheap secondhand (like half price cheap) and they go loud enough.
Then there's this, a veeeery high quality mic that sticks on to the headphones. https://www.pccasegear.com/products/37546
Lastly https://www.amazon.com.au/Creative-Performance-Headphone-Integrated-Microphone/dp/B00EZT7RE4 , which allows for surround sound processing and acts as a headphone amp, albeit relatively low power. Again I got this about 50% off secondhand.
Total price retail, $530. I paid $300. Keep in mind this is Aussie, all this is far cheaper in America.
The items used:
Raspberry PI Zero <- Bougth mine at local store.
http://amzn.com/B00S82B0VA <- Karaoke Mixer
http://amzn.com/B00SNLIG5O <- 128GB SD Card for storage
http://amzn.com/B001MSS6CS <- USB Audio Card
http://amzn.com/B003MTTJOY <- Wifi Adapter
http://amzn.com/B005HKIDF2 <- Usb Hub
A total of around ~$90
Edit
If a mic is needed that add $20
http://amzn.com/B003GEBGA0 <- Mic
Many people report issues with low volume on this mic. I've owned two and can confirm it is very quiet on some systems. From what I can tell, this is caused by some motherboards not supplying sufficient voltage to power this unit. A cheap usb sound card like this one fixes that problem. Definitely a good mic for the price if you're just using it for voice comms.
If you're still interested I did a project once that used all the hardware and software this would require and I could give you some pointers.
e: I used a raspberry pi and one of these rather than what he used. One advantage of doing it this way is you could do internet control so you can have a button on your smartphone instead of a combo.
e2: you'd also need a sound card for sound input on the pi to do combo input. I also used a rc filter for noise reduction/DC isolation, and a mechanical relay to hang up the phone.
No1 selling adapter on Amazon. #2 is the metal cased version for a little more.
Hi! The Raspberry PI only has audio output. You need an external sound device to get the audio signal into the PI. It's likely that any cheeeep-o Amazon USB audio device will be discovered by the Linux kernel, no drivers needed. I have one of these ripped apart and soldered directly to an HT for packet work, and it does fine under Debian.
edit - wrong link*
https://www.amazon.com/external-Adapter-Windows-Microphone-SD-CM-UAUD/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484950528&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=SYBA+external+USB+Stereo+Sound+Adapter+for+Windows%2C+Mac%2C+Linux+Extra+Audio+Source+with+Microphone+SD-CM-UAUD
Did you ever plug it into one of those USB adapters? I've noticed a massive sound quality increase when using one with my Omni MM4. I didn't expect it since I have a decent motherboard and it's such a cheap piece of equipment, but it worked.
My mobo is MSI A88XM-E45, and it has absolutely awful on-board sound. Most things I couldn't even hear because it wouldn't get loud enough. My sound card is this, I think. It's actually pretty decent for the price.
This would be a good one for under $10: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072BMG9TB/
I wouldn't recommend getting USB or surround sound headphones. They come in two types and both are mediocre as well as limiting. You have your headphones with multiple drivers, which reviews will time and time again say are off. Multiple smaller drivers in a circumaural headset next to year ear? Diminished sound quality as well as limited directional accuracy. The other option is to get a set that use virtual surround, but these are going to be USB only. My experienec with USB headphones tells me this is not worth it. Needing to install drivers, potential voltage dropouts from USB charge not being stable, popping (that shit HURTS and is what caused me to throw out my last USB headset), as well as not being able to plug it into more devices. The 3.5 millimeter standard is MUCH better to have here for its versatility and simplicity. If you would like USB, as another user suggested a functional reason for it (though the same could be achieved by using the front audio ports because most computers will still distinguish between headphones and speakers if you use the front ports), they do sell cheap USB adapters that often have their own virtual surround drivers. I'd recommend this over a dedicated USB headset. The lack of versatility and problems associated are worth keeping your setup modular. If you would like to have virtual surround but your soundcard/motherboard doesn't have driver support for it, then I really suggest grabbing the Razer Surround drivers for free.
Okay, wall of text is over! What SHOULD you buy? That's a crazy question. If you're looking for a headset (headphone+microphone), I'm personally a fan of the Logitech G230 which is one of the better price/performance options out there. They are not the highest quality headphones but they are sturdy (important!) and comfortable (double important!). The sound quality coming through them is more than passable. Sometimes I forget I'm not listening to speakers, even though I've been using them exclusively for months. The mic quality is mediocre and requires some boosting, so that should be known.
If you're just looking for headphones without a microphone, this is NOT the place to be asking that question. Audiophiles know headphone gear much better than gamers do, but generally don't know anything about headsets because the low-quality mics headsets use aren't of much use to audiophiles.
If you got through all that, congratulations and I hope it helps you! Just make sure to check reviews on various sites (or just Amazon, if you're lazy like me) and don't pick up anything with less than a 4/5 rating. Good luck!
Your best bet is to buy a DAC.
I snagged, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EZT7RE4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
For $35 used awhile back.
I know it's not that helpful. But I struggled with sound out of the laptop's headphone jack for a couple months. I eventually broke down and just bought a small USB DAC and that fixed it right up and even sounded better than Window's did.
Something like this: Sabrent USB DAC [Amazon]
The audio output on the Pi is super low quality, you will hear a lot of noise from your stereo. A cheap USB sound adapter will make a big difference. This one worked for me
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.CX7AbFTRWR18
You might want to consider getting a USB to 3.5mm converter so you can continue to use your current headphones.
Get this on amazon, it costs $8:
usb soundcard
it works with mac/pc, and requires no drivers. It works out of the box and allows a 2nd input. This is the cheapest possible way to add a headphone channel to preview tracks.
Also, get this mixtrack, it costs $88 and works identically:
Numark mixtrack
You are limited by the software, why buy a more expensive controller when you can get last year's for $88? It works just as effectively and the USB soundcard saves you from buying the pro version, which is marked up double compared to the regular mixtrack.
I have used this for about 6 years, very happy with it
Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi HD USB Audio System with Phono Preamp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004275EO4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_50GjxbGPCQFDN
Here is the newer version of it:
Creative Sound Blaster Omni Surround 5.1 USB Sound Card with High Performance Headphone Amp and Integrated Beam Forming Microphone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EZT7RE4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_a2GjxbYXRZF08
Or get a cheap USB DAC for the headphones. Since it's for monitoring purposes only, sound quality wouldn't be a concern, which means you can go cheap. Like $8.50 cheap.
Buy a $6 USB sound card from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/external-Adapter-Windows-Microphone-SD-CM-UAUD/dp/B001MSS6CS
I mean, you could just use a usb speaker adapter too.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_4qXOub0JDD8RW
Sorry about your luck. Tbh though, unless it's a brand new laptop I'd just buy one of these:
https://www.amazon.ca/HDE-Channel-External-Sound-Adapter/dp/B0027EMHM6
Or any equivalent thing.
Hey, 1500+ hours in-game. I've played a thousand hours with a cheap $30 headset from Amazon, both with surround sound on and off. I've also played with Audio Technica M50x's and several other mid-range headphones. Currently I play with a set of semi-open back headphones.
Some tips:
Those are my soundwhoring tips. My current setup is a pair of AKG M220 semi-open back headphones and the Creative SoundBlaster Omni amp. I always play with Windows volume at 50 and in-game master volume at 80. Pretty loud, but it gets the job done and I don't find it uncomfortable unless it's for very long periods of time (5+ hours).
Pick up one of these: https://www.amazon.com/iXCC-Premium-Gold-Plated-Adapter-Extension/dp/B019D04S4G/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485751174&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=RCA+female+to+male+3.5mm
Then you just record game audio from a mic port instead. Obviously you can find cheaper ones. If you only have one mic port and dont have a USB mic, get one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485751227&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb+microphone+adapter
Turns a USB port into stereo mic and headphone ports.
USB soundcards are under ten bucks and work great!
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=zg_bs_3015427011_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=CJ2CR6MTN1FG1AFAMFXP
usb DAC
something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
No glue required.
$7: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
You can use a USB to Audio adapter, and use any 3.5mm headphones. Like these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N905VOY
Personally use a wireless headset and love it https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Flight-Detachable-Comfortable/dp/B077ZGRY9V
Actually, the Vive Pro can be a terrific headset but you might want to swap a couple of things out. I did a ton of research before choosing to go with the Vive Pro and am very happy I did. Although, it isn't cheap to get it to it's best.
The main reasons I went with it was:
OLED screens
Vive wireless compatible
Good resolution... I don't notice any screen door effect really.
You can still use the new index controllers if you want. They are great!
First, the fresnel lenses are not great and have a small sweet spot. However, if you swap them out for these then the image and sweet spot are incredible:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/618525953/october-sale-complete-gear-vr-lens-mod?gpla=1&amp;gao=1&amp;&amp;utm_source=google&amp;utm_medium=cpc&amp;utm_campaign=shopping_us_ts1-a-electronics_and_accessories-gadgets&amp;utm_custom1=_kenshoo_clickid_&amp;utm_content=go_920092302_46336053576_218705956513_aud-301856855998:pla-353904501530_m__618525953&amp;gclid=Cj0KCQjwl8XtBRDAARIsAKfwtxCVZQeOQvaBjAXccyIERp_eCxuMJwsRGMWDweNIpkWBv8sNQYQavYIaApVYEALw_wcB
I was nervous about swapping out the lenses but it really isn't hard at all. Here's a video showing how to do it:
https://youtu.be/5O45PcAATxk
I can't remember if the guy in the video mentions this but you want to install the lenses so that the side with the bigger bulge is facing towards you and not inward. They look like they should go in the opposite way which is why you will see people complain about it looking like they are in a fish bowl.
The headphones are not great but they aren't terrible either. Unfortunately, they didn't give us a headphone jack on the headset but instead gave us a USB c Port right next to where the link cable plugs into the headset. Taking off the built in headphones is very easy.
https://www.vive.com/eu/support/vive-pro-hmd/category_howto/removing-the-headset-earphones.html
So you need either USB c headphones or a USB c headphone adapter. If you're using wireless then you will want to use this one since other ones I tried did not work when using wireless but this one did:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071HJ98Q6/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_7JySDbNGYKK5B
With the lens mod, Vive wireless, and good earbuds.. I have loved my Vive Pro set up.
My windows laptop didn't have a dedicated mic input jack (only headphone), so I had to buy this. It works great so far :)
Hi Xensky! Welcome to LinuxHardware. \^_^
According to online sources, support for the ALC1220 codec was added in kernel 4.11. Do you happen to know what kernel version you're currently using?
If it is not convenient to upgrade to a newer kernel or use a distro that comes with an updated kernel (Solus, Fedora, Antergos), the easiest solution would likely be to use an external USB soundcard like this, which would be plug'n'play.
Otherwise, you could instead get a PCI or PCI-e internal soundcard, like the ASUS Xonar series. However people have reported issues with these on Linux in the past, and I myself encountered issues with mine, eventually replacing it with an external DAC.
Also, if the audio being played from the ALC1220 is clear, and you're only experiencing issues with the microphone input, another option could be to purchase a USB microphone instead, bypassing the onboard sound entirely.
Hope that helps! :)
Keep in mind that a lot of what you're reading is just random people's opinions. It sounds like you know you want a 303 clone, so watch some demo videos on YouTube and get one that appeals to you. Buy it used, so if you decide you don't like it you can sell it for the same price. No financial risk!
As for audio interfaces, I use a sound card like this and it's worked great so far.
I use this one to great effect: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8. I second the recommendation of u/DrCoolHands for an audio transformer. Check out "Easy Digi" on ebay.
Can you try testing the sound card separately on the RPi? See if you can record something with an external mic. Could be a software/driver issue.
Aside from checking cable connections, try something like a USB sound card like this one. The static could be coming from EM interference on your motherboard's built in sound processor.
Pretty much any generic and cheap USB sound card that has mainline linux support. For example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
You may need to reboot after plugging the dac in. I only tried the analog audio out on the pcm2704. They are stereo only. This may be handy for projectors since they are USB powered and cheaper than HDMI extractors. Note there is not simultaneous audio output from USB and HDMI.
Links
SYBA external USB Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows, Mac, Linux Extra Audio Source with Microphone SD-CM-UAUD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yrkoxbR8N0JMM
Phantom YoYo PCM2704 USB Fiber Optic Coaxial Analog Output USB Sound Card Decoding Plate DAC USB Power https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5NQ12O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KskoxbJFVQ3ER
Griffin Technology iMic - The original USB Stereo Input and Output Audio Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y5D776/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wtkoxbHBWFXCF
Here is a side solution
https://www.amazon.com/external-Adapter-Windows-Microphone-SD-CM-UAUD/dp/B001MSS6CS
You are probably talking about USB Audio, it was actually added earlier in 4.1. The device also has to support USB Host. S4 does support USB Audio. The biggest problem is that Google does not give a damn about compatibility with external accessories. As far as I understand not all external USB Audio DACs/cards are compatible with all USB Audio Android smartphones.
EDIT: Here is what I think should work. Disclaimer: I'm not absolutely sure about compatibility.
EDIT2: This thing may potentially work too. It says "USB Audio Device Class Specification 10" so there is hope. Buy it at your own risk.
I don't know of any type of cable as what you are explaining. It looks to me you just need a USB extender.
Otherwise unlikely, but there is this type of adapter. I haven't had issues with power personally.
Not necessary unless you're having problems using it with your computer or phone (like if you hear a noise when it's plugged in, or if it's not playing lossless/high bitrate streams in a quality that's higher than normal).
There are lots of cheap USB dacs on Amazon you could try if you think this might apply to you.
Here's one that's USB-A for PC.
Asked about it in another thread in another sub, was shown a thing, enjoy.
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Converter-Adapter-Desktops/dp/B06XP5R449/ref=pd_sim_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B06XP5R449&amp;pd_rd_r=7DF06RTN4AGB0EES3W2V&amp;pd_rd_w=npOXa&amp;pd_rd_wg=E3yd5&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=7DF06RTN4AGB0EES3W2V
I use this and it works really well! I have the same set up as you!
And yes I’m on 5.0.0
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N905VOY?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Yep but you're probably cheaper off buying a cheap usb sound card for like 5-10€
Edit: the purpose of the sound card is to just sort out the interference coming from the PC and send a clean signal to the device. This doesn't require a 400€ AMP or a DAC.
Sort of just smoothing out the "bumps".
Something like this can do the job.
Audio processing inside a power hungry computer is like holding a concert on an F1 track while a race is happening next to you.
Your least expensive option is something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N905VOY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495292448&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=usb+to+3.5mm+jack+audio+adapter&amp;psc=1
These are powered speakers with USB inputs - $350/Pr Retail -
https://www.klipsch.com/products/r-15pm-powered-monitors
How important is USB to you? That's a nice feature, but only if you need it.
I think these might be the latest version (R-51PM - $500/pr) -
https://www.klipsch.com/products/r-51pm-powered-speakers
If there is a replacement model that means there are probably very good deals on the Older Version.
These are 5" speaker, and to make a determination, you have to consider what else you can get for a similar price.
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/LSR305MK2--jbl-305p-mkii-5-inch-powered-studio-monitor
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/MR524--mackie-mr524-5-inch-powered-studio-monitor
Edifier S2000-Pro, DAC, Remote Control, Bluetooth 4.0, etc... - £399/pr -
https://www.amazon.com/Edifier-S2000pro-Bluetooth-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B0725GZQFZ/
https://www.edifier.com/us/en/speakers/s2000pro-bookshelf-speakers-studio-monitors
There is nothing wrong with the Edifier, assuming they do what you need done.
The one advantage the Klipsch do have is that they have a USB input for direct connect to a computer. That is probably the feature that is the deciding factor. However, if you computer has an Optical or Coaxial Output, then something like the Edifiers 2000 might be a good choice.
Or, if you are not connecting to a computer, then USB becomes less valuable. In the case, the Edifier with Optical/Coaxial/AUX and Bluetooth is a better choice, simply because it has a Remote Control.
The various Mackie and JBL in 5", 6.5", and 8" could be a good choice as they are highly rated and are less money, but they would require you to buy a USB DAC. Though these can be had in the range of $100.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_703DGNFLYB/AudioQuest-DragonFly-Black-v1-5.html
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_772D3DAC/Audioengine-D3.html?tp=59309
https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2/
https://www.amazon.com/Q1-Mark-II-Native-Amplifier/dp/B0757MH46M/
https://www.amazon.com/CREATIVE-LABS-70SB173000000-Sound-Blaster/dp/B06XBZ38ZJ/
https://www.amazon.com/FX-Audio-Optical-Coaxial-Amplifier/dp/B01HERNVQQ/
Some of these are USB DACs and Headphone Amps.
The JBL 306 and the Mackie MR624 are both 6.5" speakers, which are TWICE as big as a 5" bass driver. They are about $200 each, which with a DAC would run in the neighborhood of $500/set.
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/LSR306MK2--jbl-306p-mkii-6.5-inch-powered-studio-monitor
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/MR624--mackie-mr624-6.5-inch-powered-studio-monitor
You can check reviews on line and you will find nothing but positive for both the JBL and the Mackie MR Series.
All that said, nothing wrong with the Klipsch, just make sure they do what you want, suit your application, and fit your budget.
Just a range of possibilities
The headphone jack that plugs into the top of the Vive HMD is for outgoing audio, not the incoming mic. You will need to get a USB adaptor
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B06XP5R449/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
&#x200B;
This is what I used, plugs into the super-secret USB port on the Vive HMD, its hiding behind the cover where the wires go.
Cheers mate
Although I haven't used a mic for recording voice, I use a measurement mic and an RTA app on my phone for work.
I use to be able to use a mic/headphone splitter, something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Kingtop-Adapter-Tablet-Headsets-Version/dp/B01I3A47I4/ref=sr_1_3?crid=7GITDJG042NF&amp;keywords=mic+headphone+splitter&amp;qid=1567198293&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=mic+headpho%2Caps%2C197&amp;sr=8-3
But after the Oreo update, the splitter stopped working.
Luckily, I was able to use this USB-C audio adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSC/dp/B071HJ98Q6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+c+audio+adapter+sabrent&amp;qid=1567198535&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
And the mic jack works for my purposes although I notice a some noise at around 15khz that wasn't there when I was able to use the mic/headphone splitter so I don't know if it would get picked up by a recorder.
Btw, if you want to get a USB-C adapter, get the one I linked to. I bought a similar one from Cable Matters as a backup but it wouldn't work on my phone.
Using the USB-c to USB connector that came with my Pixel,
https://www.amazon.com/Official-Adapter-Type-C-MacBook-Google/dp/B071G6NLHJ/ref=sr_1_25?keywords=pixel+usb&qid=1566946160&s=electronics&sr=1-25
and a Sound adaptor: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I designed and printed the PO faceplates to beef them up a little and protect the buttons from getting pressed while packed away. I made the plate out of cardboard and felt so I could velcro attach the units however I wanted.
Thanks for the compliment!
(Edited to add info)
Can I use this cable adapter and this usb splitter? I'm planning to get a speedstacks timer and I want to connect it to my laptop (only unified audio jack)
If you don't want to get a whole new Mobo, you can just get a USB audio dongle. Sabrent makes one for cheap -
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_e8B3Ab2B1HSAJ/u/whoyawn
I have used this one on PS4 and it worked just fine: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=pd_sim_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00IRVQ0F8&amp;pd_rd_r=DGZYMY3WMGHXQ4H9EF7N&amp;pd_rd_w=eHLu0&amp;pd_rd_wg=TZuaa&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=DGZYMY3WMGHXQ4H9EF7N
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
buy as many as you want.
Maybe you need one of these.
It's an optical port, which means it uses light instead of electricity to send the signal. There are converters for those, but they tend to be more expensive than just getting a sound card.
You can get a cheap usb sound card pretty easily. Here's one for less than $7.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
You can buy something cheap like this or more expensive like this. Both of them will work.
One is a sound card, may have a different EQ and perhaps a very small AMP included. The other is a Digital to Analog Converter plus an Amplifier.
Hope this helps.
If you want to do WiFi streaming, install $3.50 BubbleUPnP on the phone and use the Windows 10 built-in DLNA streaming. If you're on Ubuntu you can install pulseaudio-dlna and use it as output from sound settings. I'm sure there's something for Mac as well.
For USB, what you're looking for is called a USB DAC. If you're really strapped for cash and don't have fancy tastes in sound quality, or quality headphones, then one of these $5-7 puppies will take care of it. Quality is touch and go, some may be DOA and need replacing, but they'll get the job done. You can also go for a $20 Signstek (PCM2704), but I wouldn't recommend more expensive ones without knowing what headphones you're using and what you want from them.
If you do, I can recommend the $40 FiiO K1, $65 SMSL SD793-II or $75 FiiO E10K, but if you do that you should also look into putting $50-200 into decent headphones and you're probably not looking for that.
Whatever you do DO NOT get USB headphones. Decent ones are expensive, cheap ones are absolute crap. A $5 DAC like above and a $25 pair of Sennheiser HD202 will be better and can be replaced separately or even taken apart and repaired if they break.
heya, really just wanted to tell you that you can completely rid of the background mic static if you use something like this (just for the mic).
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
helped me tremendously.
It's pretty straight forward:
It's a common issue with PC mounted audio jacks.
Best way to to get a USB adapter like https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=pd_bxgy_63_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=PMD2SF85Z15K025JSB8H
I had the same problem with my modmic but this cleaned the input up.
If you can fix it easily, nice job, but don't spend too much time trying to get it to work. user badchromosome referred me to this : Just another USB dongle!
Just to add to your options :)
It really is worth it. I couldn't get my audio to work again after 10.11.4, and it was really frustrating. Having this work equally well was really fantastic and worth every penny, especially knowing if something happens to my setup, I won't ever need to try and get audio to work. It'll just work :)
I picked an external one simply because it was super cheap, well-rated, and I had heard audio samples with the modmic.
I didn't use an internal because I have a mini-ITX case and had zero room.
Here is the amazon link to the one I am using - if you decide on this, make sure to get the (AU-MMSA) model as it provides enough voltage while newer models do not.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499826634&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=sabrent+usb+sound+card
You have to be careful, if you're not gonna plug it into a TV, because it only has HDMI since it's supposed to be a console hybrid, you need to buy a USB sound card like this , a Keyboard and mouse, and a USB hub, so you'll have more slots free. On the other hand, if you're looking for a TV steam box, you should be fine with just a controller.
It is possible that you need a USB adapter. I have a video coming out next week that is very in depth about getting CStimer to work with a stackmat.
You can buy one cheap here: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522278823&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb+audio&amp;dpID=51QY728wxCL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
For combined audio ports this will likely solve your issue.
Open back - SHP9500s + VModa BoomPro
Closed back - Takstar Pro82 + Microphone
USB Dongle
Amazon used for convenience. Shop around for best pricing. Reviews for everything mentioned available on YouTube.
You said your audio jack is broken. Can you buy a cheap USB to stereo out adapter and use that with normal speakers or headphones?
There are apps like SoundWire but I don't if anything like that will have low enough latency for gaming.
I made a cable for my FT-450 for digital modes and I think the whole thing cost me 20-30 bucks. I used the design here and then switched back and forth between Windows and Linux before settling on fldigi/flrig/wsjtx on Linux. The most expensive component was the USB soundcard dongle (this one ought to work). At some point I will probably invest in a Signalink so I can get some finer control over audio-out levels (as opposed to doing everything in the software audio mixers), but this works well enough that I'm in no big hurry.
edit: words and a link here and there.
I just grabbed one of these when i first got my POs. it works just fine. https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
Try a USB soundcard like this one
Get a USB audio adapter like this and the usb extension from htc here and plus that into your vives extra usb slot.
You can't force it to use a device that it does not think exists.
I have a similar problem. I use a cheap USB->Audio Headphone adapter and just select it in the Sound panel of System Preferences.
I have this mobo. I ordered this USB sound thing because I'm cheap.
Link: http://amzn.com/B00IRVQ0F8 I bought one of these, fixes it right up. If you're looking for higher end you'll want to look at the different PI-DAC projects like hifiberry.com.
If you just need a cheap way to connect the mic you already have, you can buy USB sound devices for next to nothing. I realize this is an amazon US link, but I'm not familiar with your online retailers :P I'm sure you can find them without too much trouble.
Obviously they won't have the same quality as a blue snowball, but it could hold you over.
Any of the cheap ones on Amazon with good reviews. You may want to upgrade to a proper amp in the future, but this will help with bad PC board sound for now:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Aluminum-External-Adapter-AU-EMAC/dp/B00OJ5AV8I/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1539687159&amp;sr=8-6&amp;refinements=p_72%3A2661618011&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=usb+sound+card&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31I6PjG412L&amp;ref=plSrch
A USB sound card will act as a standalone device.
You would have to connect the speakers to the USB sound device for it to work.
maybe this will help you guys
if you simply wanted a multi-channel audio output, i would just get a multi-channel soundcard or multiple soudcards, and then hook up the outputs the same way as the current CD player's outputs (left channel->light controller, right channel->speakers).
this is assuming that you want to keep the rest of the relay controller system intact, which looks like was painstakingly built and calibrated, and you probably don't want to redo that part.
from there, simply find the right audio player for your needs. you could look into a multitrack program to control the time synchronization of multiple songs/tracks on the different channels. (reaper is a good one, and has an "infinite" demo period and the actual price is also quite low as well if you're satisfied with what it can do).
qlab (as the other commenter suggested) is a great piece of software, but is potentially overkill in terms of features and price, but more importantly not designed with your existing light control system in mind and from your post it sounds like you're simply looking for a solution for the audio part of the system.
in terms of specific audio hardware, the cheapest option would be to get a bunch of usb audio interfaces - like, really cheap ones that are a couple bucks each (many are advertised as virtual 7.1 but really just have a speaker out and mic). from there, each track you're playing can be set to output to a particular interface. more expensive options might include a professional grade multichannel dac, but then you're looking at a couple hundred bucks at least and you probably won't be needing the high quality preamps for inputs, or balanced outputs in your setup. one in between solution would be to get something like this which gives you "3 CD players" worth of outputs since it has 6 channels of output. not as nice as a pro interface but much cheaper.
I have the DT880 Pro + modmic that I use plugged into the controller and it works fine, sometimes I use a USB audio adapter plugged into the PS4 as the volume is slightly louder in the headphones, What's your concern? Whether it works, or the volume due to the Impedance?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Aluminum-Headphone-Microphone-Plug-N-Play-Compatible/dp/B014ANW4VU/
with a zero I'd use a usb audio dongle to get line-level output which you can feed to a stereo class D amp. You'll need a boost/charger converter ... fortunately adafruit carries all of this :-)
Then you just need to take a 3.5mm stereo male lead and cut one end off and attach to the amp.
I'd use the usb dongle over say PWM pins because it'll likely sound much better and you get an audio input to boot.
I'm a gamer and know nothing of sound but the guys over at /r/buildapc gave me some suggestions to come to the pros here at r/headphones
I currently have the HyperX Cloud Pro Gaming Headset which for the price I have no complains about. The only reason I'm looking to get new headphones is that this headphones kinda suck at helping me hear footsteps and don't get very loud.
Can you guys help me find the best headphones for around 400$. I have no problem going higher as long as I get the best set up possible.
My requirements so far are
I don't know to much about all the components I need to buy so if you can list them all in one post with the name to find on Amazon that would be really helpful.
What I kinda put together but I was told I need an amp.
Headphones
Audio-Technica ATH-A990Z Art Monitor Closed-Back Dynamic Headphones
DAC & AMP
Creative Sound BlasterX G5 7.1 Headphone Surround HD Audio External Sound Card with Headphone Amplifier for Windows PC/Mac/PS4/and Other Consoles
KOTION EACH 2.0 USB External Sound Card Adapter for PC Laptop Windows Mac OS Linux, AFUNTA Audio Adapter Cable, No drivers Needed
It's the one I use with a makeshift docking station.
I opened it up so I could show you the layout and to see if it would help before you bought one
Top View
Wheel = volume knob
Buttons = mic mute and headphone mute
Mic = Pink
Headset = Black (like earbuds with a mic)
Headphones = Green
Bottom View
You could desolder the buttons, wheel, mic, and headset jacks.
Or keep the headset jack and use it for a digital audio recorder too.
But remove the headphone jack
For grins, you can probably integrate the knob into the keyboard too, if you can find the room.
But then, you'll probably need to hide a hub inside the keyboard. You'll need a high profile case with lots of room inside.
Best way is to buy a quality cassette deck - there are a ton of options, google around
From there, try to find some sort of audio-to-USB connector/adapter (best audio results will be straight from the white/red audio connectors) or if you can't find a USB adapter, use a red/white to 3.5mm headphone jack adapter & plug it into your PC's microphone-in port, and it should work. Then use a program like audacity to receive the recording
EDIT: I'm thinking something like this
I'm not sure about the quality on this one specifically, but it'll look something like this so definitely look around online
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor | $159.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | MSI - B450-A PRO ATX AM4 Motherboard | $59.99 @ Newegg
Memory | Team - Vulcan 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $69.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Kingston - A400 240 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $39.49 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate - Barracuda 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $58.89 @ OutletPC
Video Card | MSI - Radeon RX 580 8 GB ARMOR OC Video Card | $204.89 @ OutletPC
Case | Cougar - MX330 ATX Mid Tower Case | $46.98 @ B&H
Power Supply | Corsair - CXM 550 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $59.89 @ OutletPC
Wireless Network Adapter | Asus - PCE-AC51 PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | $29.89 @ OutletPC
Keyboard | Razer - Blackwidow Tournament Edition Wired Gaming Keyboard | $58.90 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $848.90
| Mail-in rebates | -$60.00
| Total | $788.90
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-11-21 00:15 EST-0500 |
Here is the monitor I recommend:
https://www.microcenter.com/product/508128/ha230-23-full-hd-75hz-vga-hdmi-freesync-led-monitor
Here is the mousepad I recommend:
https://www.amazon.com/VicTsing-Extended-31-5×15-75×0-12-Computer-Water-Resistant/dp/B0794WBPHK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542777401&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=gaming+mousepad
So this should all be plenty for his intentions.
AMD’s Ryzen lineup has more cores than intel and tends to be a much better “bang for the buck”
8GB of high speed ram
Instead of a GTX 1060 or 1070, I went with an RX580 to save money. It has very equivalent performance as the 1060, and even better in some areas.
I added a WiFi card to allow for wireless connectivity, which isn’t necessary if you plan to wire your connection.
A nice CherryMX Switch keyboard.
A 2TB Hard Drive for games and a 240GB SSD for Windows. (Allows for faster boot times and a smoother experience overall.)
A good looking case that has a glass side panel on one end.
And a 75hz monitor that is a steal at the moment. I actually have one of these myself and it is amazing for its price, I’m very satisfied. Only downside is it doesn’t ship with an HDMI cable, only VGA so make sure you have a spare.
And of course a large mousepad, not necessary but helps.
If your son plans on using a mic, he needs a USB splitter which is super cheap and you can get off of Amazon for ~$10.
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542777817&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=3.5mm+usb+splitter&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41zp99SXYrL&amp;ref=plSrch
This build should get the job done for your son;)
I know it’s a little out of budget, but the extra money is worth it.
Edit: I also recommend purchasing another case fan for $5-10 as this only comes with 1 preinstalled.
Oh yeah, here is a cheaper option for the first one, didn't realize how expensive those got. http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1396147773&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+to+3.5mm
I've used this adapter in a number of situations for Macs, and it works well.
You could go with something simple like a usb soundcard, since you're not much into djing, example: http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1409712783&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+soundcard
or you could ask your friend what he used
Plugging the Helix in via USB is telling the iPad to use it as an audio interface for both ins and outs. If you only want to use the Helix for input, why don't you try a cheap USB sound card with a mic level input along with a headphone jack like this. Then you can use the headphone output on the USB card.
I wish Apple would implement mac-level audio routing. It really is super easy to pick your system level input/output device, even when the two are completely different.
I'm using the 558's so I don't think there is much of a difference this is basically what my setup looks like but with different products.http://cdn.head-fi.org/4/42/500x1000px-LL.jpg-4212849e_750524.jpeg
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MSS6CS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/Force-Channel-Dolby-Surround-Processor-Mac/dp/B003O0KICS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1418904313&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=earforce+amp
I use the audio adapter with the Earforce amp because without it the ps4 has a hard time recognizing that a mic is plugged in. So far the quality is really good, I can hear footsteps and the TLOU had a great sound. I had a similar problem with a headphone jack except mine broke, so this was my little setup that helped me around that problem and has provided beautiful audio since February.
Agreed that the metronome could be better.
You could always just put a click track on a channel that is routed in such a way which will bypass your recording and go straight to speakers.
You could control the volume, divisions, whatever. You could put something different on the 1,5,9,13 so you always know exactly where you are.
I should probably send this idea over to Scott, haha. Now I want to see it incorporated.
Additionally, if you were to route this track to an independent sound card, say, a cheap USB Sound Card , you could then plug in a dedicated pair of speakers and have a physical metronome that you could fade in and out whenever.
Sorry, I'm not aware of any software that would do that - But you could get one of these for about $9.00. :-)
I use this with my Mac mini and it works great. You would need a usb-c adapter
If your goal is to recreate the "isolated audio components" hardware portion of Beats Audio, your best bet is to get a USB audio adapter/amp/dac. From USB, the audio signal is still digital so it literally can't be affected by electromagnetic noise inside the laptop. Prices range from ridiculously cheap to ridiculously expensive, just depending on what you want or need.
You probably won't hear any difference between an external device and your built-in headphone jack, but if you think your sound is bad then it doesn't hurt to try something else. Just don't judge your laptop's audio output based on the quality of the built-in speakers. Compare with headphones.
A USB dac will work fine. This is probably the cheapest one https://www.amazon.com/external-Adapter-Windows-Microphone-SD-CM-UAUD/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479439006&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=usb+soundcard+dac+input+output
http://www.ebay.com/itm/EASY-DIGI-Sound-Card-Interface-PSK-RTTY-SSTV-NBEMS-JT-65-PCB-KIT-/221706973853?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&amp;hash=item339ec3f29d
All you need is a few plugs to interface your sound card and rig and your good to go... less than $20 for the whole deal.
If you want an external sound card system, plug the audio in/out to this and use it as a usb setup.
http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1427246078&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=external+sound+card
Yes, you can do that.
The way I do it is I use a mixer, and I bought 4 USB sound cards, which are like $5 on Amazon. I send Skype, TS, etc to one, Games to another, music to another and mix it all via the mixer later. This gives me control over almost all my audio.
This is not the preferred solution, but it will make any mic/headset you have now work.http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001MSS6CS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1427736418&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+headphone+adapter&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41AM133RwuL&amp;ref=plSrch&amp;pi=AC_SY200_QL40
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Adapter-External-Digital-ICUSBAUDIO7D/dp/B002LM0U2S/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top Cheapest soundcard with spdif input I've seen. Because it's digital, the cheap price shouldn't have that big of an impact on quality, hopefully.
Maybe your headphones and speakers are hard to drive?
You can always buy an external DAC. I have one very similar to this http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Adapter-External-Digital-ICUSBAUDIO7D/dp/B002LM0U2S/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1453049995&amp;sr=8-11&amp;keywords=usb+sound+card
I built a simpit that has two USB sound cards in it running seven channels: chassis, pedals, seat bottom, and seat back. USB sound cards are not recommended, but I wanted my simpit to be somewhat separated from my computer, and it's working for me.
It took some fiddling/tuning to get it right, but it really makes a huge difference in the immersion. I especially love being able to feel the gears shifting, and being able to tell from that how smoothly the gears changed. Without it turned on the car just feels dead now.
I do wish I had used larger transducers for the chassis corners, as they are on the underside of 5/8" MDF base. Seat and pedals are great. I used the following:
It's these StarTech USB sound cards that needed to be in 5.1 mode. In Quadraphonic I don't believe I was getting any channel separation in the SimVibe output.
Audacity's noise removal tool is excellent at getting rid of consistent background noise, like computer hum, etc. if that's what you mean. If you mean your soundcard picks up a lot of electrical noise when you try to record with a mic, that's harder to fix. Impossible, really. Easier to get a $20 USB soundcard or headset adapter. I use this little guy from Turtlebeach for my headset and it's very clear. The headset mic, on the other hand, likes to pick up every creak, crack, and twitch the headset gear makes. It even picks up the sound of my mouse wheel scrolling! But it gets temperamental about my voice if the boom is an inch or two off. Go figure. ;)
EDIT: Actually, unless you need a headset adaptor, probably more cost-effective to just buy a USB mic...
You would need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Beach-Advantage-Headset-Adapter/dp/B0036VO4XO
However there is no guarantee this - or another USB audio adapter - is a "compatible third-party device with Vive".
https://www.vive.com/us/support/category_howto/720428.html
I haven't found a list of those devices may be, anywhere on HTC's website or in the Vive user manual.
I wouldnt buy anything labeled "iSomething"
I've heard good things about the Turtle Beach Amigo II.
Confirm it will work with PS3
> a hiss or buzz
I'm sending SPDIF to my receiver and it still puts out a lot of static with headphones, more than my laptop sound card. Oddly enough, the inexpensive USB sound card I bought to send SPDIF to the receiver is less noisy than either of them.
The black and yellow jacks are "Rear" and "Center/Sub" connections, respecitvely. Sound Blaster has two external USB sound cards that have these connections:
http://us.creative.com/p/sound-blaster/sound-blaster-x-fi-surround-5-1-pro
http://us.creative.com/p/sound-blaster/sound-blaster-omni-surround-5-1
Amazon links:
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Blaster-Surround-System-SB1095/dp/B0044DEDCA
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Performance-Headphone-Integrated-Microphone/dp/B00EZT7RE4
As for differences, you just have to take a closer look at features/specs and see what you want/need/future proof vs. prices. Good luck!
An entire generation of Soundblaster internal and external sound cards support Dolby Digital Live decoding. Here's a super cheap example: https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Performance-Headphone-Integrated-Microphone/dp/B00EZT7RE4
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Blaster-Surround-System-SB1095/dp/B0044DEDCA
Item|Price
:--|:--
CORSAIR Vengeance Blue LED 2X8GB 3000MHz | $150
Corsair Vengeance LPX 4GB 2400MHz~~ | $25
Skynex 4GB 2400MHz | $20
Two RGB strips and controller|$1024 pin extention | $5
Sound Blaster Omni | $50
[
Aigo c5 x 8(1 new) and controller (only have 1 controller)] (https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAE866X91681) |$8 each(New)Aigo Rainbow Ring | $5
(New never used, pulled from case)Fractal fans x 2 | $8 each
here you go
literally 30 seconds on amazon
Easier than messing with pinouts is to just get a USB audio adapter. It's substantially easier to deal with and works with all your existing gear.
One of these:https://www.amazon.ca/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS
And all your problems are solved. They sell for under $10.
Is it a DAC/Amp combo (Fulla) or seperate DAC/Amp (Magni + Modi)? Since you said stack it is probably magni + modi.
The dualshock 4 will not power the modmic sufficiently. You would need to get a USB sound card that supplies power to microphone.
You can get one on Antlions website at https://antlionaudio.com/collections/accessories/products/antlion-audio-usb-sound-card
I do not have the antlion one, but I have this one and can say that it works: https://www.amazon.com/external-Adapter-Windows-Microphone-SD-CM-UAUD/dp/B001MSS6CS
PS4 can be weird if you try to have input and output on two different USB audio devices (soundcard in + DAC/amp out). If you have the magni + modi you can use a toslink optical cable with no problems. The fulla does not have toslink so it may have a problem with two usb devices at same time.
edit: The syba sound card I linked is a little fat and may block other usb ports depending on model of ps4. I would spend a few more dollars and get the antlion one if I still needed it. I use a soundblasterX G5 to power my headphones and modmic 4. (headphones are Beyerdynamic DT880 250 ohms)
edit 2: IIRC, the PS4 slim does not have a toslink optical port.
Either turn up your microphone boost in your audio panel (right click on little speaker in taskbar, select recording options. Go to your mic input then -> Properties -> Levels tab -> Microphone boost.
OR Get yourself one of these
My store sells something like this for that very purpose.
There are a few <$10 USB dongle sound cards on amazon. I've never used one, but they generally have pretty good reviews, and they are tiny.
https://smile.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_41?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468787901&amp;sr=8-41&amp;keywords=usb+dac
https://smile.amazon.com/Sabrent-Aluminum-External-Adapter-AU-EMAC/dp/B00OJ5AV8I/ref=sr_1_59?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468787923&amp;sr=8-59&amp;keywords=usb+dac
https://smile.amazon.com/external-Adapter-Windows-Microphone-SD-CM-UAUD/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468787875&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=usb+dac
There are more expensive ones too, but I think I'd try one of the ~$10 ones first just in case they happen to be decent.
You could use a splitter but that does not account for the internals of your headsets being quite different to the amplifier built in to your speakers. Usually this causes volume imbalance, which you could probably fix a bit with the volume knob on your speakers but it's not the best. Speakers with a headphone connector would be the best for that part but that won't fix the microphone part.
The StarTech splitter that was linked only works for devices with a TRRS socket (normally you only have TRS, so one Ring in the middle, RR has double rings).
If you want to be sure that won't break shit you'd need to post the motherboard/audiodevice/case -model depending on where this singular output is on your PC. That way we could try to see if it has a TRRS connector instead of just TRS.
You could also get a DAC (Digital Audio Converter) which would take up an USB port. Most have both audio out and microphone in. Unfortunately this installs as a separate 'sound card' and different audio device so you'd need to set up preferences for 'playback' and 'communications'.
Also some programs (even Skype goddammit) ignore the OS settings for which audio device is active/preferred so it would require some tinkering from time to time when you get a DAC.
Edit: example of a DAC this one was linked from the StarTech splitter as a related product. I can't vouch for this particular product etc. or that is even a good price. Just so you can see what it would look like.
Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Speaker-Headset-Switching-Manhattan-172851/dp/B000K8PH8C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1398567006&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=audio+switcher
Also saw this:
http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_65?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1398566730&amp;sr=8-65&amp;keywords=headphone+switch
Or this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Plantronics-Audio-PC-Headset-Speaker-Switch-with-flippable-switch-New-In-Box-/271263727873?pt=US_Computer_Headsets&amp;hash=item3f28940101
The best thing to do is get one of these. The USB on the sound card and USB power for your headset will take up the only two ports on the console, but it's the best (and only, I think) way to do chat with x11's or other PC headsets that use the green and pink connections.
Any card would work fine. I'd steer clear of the headphone amps, might be too much signal and you'd need to end up attenuating it.
Even a cheapie USB sound card would get the job done just fine.
I don't think that one. You need one that splits to a mic jack and a headphone jack. That one splits to two headphone jacks. You could get one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=pd_ecc_rvi_cart_3 or one of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SP0WAQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A2E7NH3SLWCOH4
I see when it comes to headsets you're worried about faultiness after awhile. Most companies will leave you with this problem, Logitech, Turtle Beaches, Plantronics.. Some other companies will just pure rip you off. I know quite a bit after the audio world being a head-fier. I can assure you that nothing can beat the quality of a Audio-Technica or Sennheiser gaming headset..
They usually are 3.5mm, but you can get a converter to USB http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=pd_bxgy_e_img_b
Audio-Technica is known for being cheap and sturdy, and for its price none of the competitors like Logitech or Turtle beaches will stand a chance, the quality that comes out of them for their price is just amazing.. They might not look as stylish or what not but if you don't care about that, go for it. You can easily just google Sennheiser or Audio-Technica and enjoy :)
If I could really recommend something, buy headphones, get yourself a good sound card and you won't need an actual gaming headset, the 3D sound will work in games amazingly. Then all you need is a stand up mic or something.
http://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-PC-151-Noise-Canceling-Microphone/dp/B000NOR89Y/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1311707536&amp;sr=1-5
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826402091
Hmmm... I'm not quite sure what could be the problem then. Have you updated any drivers recently? Also, try running a Linux live USB and see if you notice any audio problems while using it. It's all I can think of at the moment to check if it is just a software problem.
A potential workaround would be getting a USB device like this: https://www.amazon.com/external-Adapter-Windows-Microphone-SD-CM-UAUD/dp/B001MSS6CS or a dedicated sound card. I'm not 100% sure how the USB device works, but I don't think it uses the motherboard's audio and is rather its own audio device. You may find a USB device that's better than the one I linked, I just did a quick Google search for one since I knew these sorts of devices existed.
You can either use a usb audio adapter with a regular 3.5mm mic, or you can get a USB mic.
I'm using that $8 adapter with a cheap 3.5mm mic.
Alternatively, you could just hook your headsets up via USB and be done with it all together.
https://www.amazon.com/external-Adapter-Windows-Microphone-SD-CM-UAUD/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=pd_bxgy_229_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=E1MYXXEQ67NWR1D8B9P9
Probably not possible but you can get a USB sound card or a USB headset.
http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1406476752&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+computer+audio
You need this or this.
I don't think you can just get any old USB to 3.5mm adapter, it's a digital signal on USB going to analog. Some piece of electronics (DAC) has to convert the digital sound to analog, and only a USB to 3.5mm adapter won't do it.
I would agree with you that it sounds like a hardware issue with your aux port. You could always try resetting the smc for the hell of it but if that doesnt work I would maybe recommend buying usb headphones or just a usb to aux adapter as a temporary fix
Nab yourself one of these. With it, you can separate the output and the headphone cues.
Yes, a 3.5mm to USB adapter makes it work. This is the one that I bought awhile ago and I've been using my SteelSeries SiberiaV2's on my PS4 for awhile. You're just going to have to go into sound device options to set up how you want it (I have all the sound going through to the headset including party chat stuff).
This isn't easy or simple, but it is possible. You will need a separate microphone of some kind.
Get one of these:
https://en-us.sennheiser.com/pcv-05
This separates the audio from an Xbox One controller into separate microphone and headphone plugs.
If your controller is an Elite, you can plug this directly into the controller.
If not, you'll need an adapter like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Afterglow-LVL-Headset-Adapter/dp/B017VLXJ7G/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_63_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=VKQJ85AC83ZD52576QFZ
Now run 1/8" stereo cables from the headphone and microphone leads of the Sennheiser adapter and either plug them into the inputs on your PC, if they are available. If not, you can add more inputs by adding a USB audio adapter like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/external-Adapter-Windows-Microphone-SD-CM-UAUD/dp/B001MSS6CS
In the Xbox, enable your headset and send party and game chat to the headset only. (You can also use speakers, but then you'll only be able to control the chat audio levels in the Xbox, not in OBS.)
If you're not already using it, get VoiceMeeter Banana and set it up according to its manual:
http://vb-audio.pagesperso-orange.fr/Voicemeeter/banana.htm
Voicemeeter provides for three hardware inputs, three hardware outputs, and three audio buses. It creates a virtual device to be used as the default Windows audio output. Check the quick start section of the manual.
Then what you want is to set your Let's Play microphone as hardware input 1, and your Xbox headset as hardware input 2 (either the mic input of your PC or your USB adapter).
Hardware output 1 should be the headphones you use while playing (not the Xbox headset, we're not even going to use it!) and hardware output 2 should be either your PC's headphone port or the USB audio adapter, depending on which you are using.
Now what you want to do is enable the appropriate busses for hardware inputs so they get output to the proper places. That's what the buttons labeled A1, A2, A3, B1 and B2 are for.
You want to make sure that the hardware input for your microphone and the hardware output for your xbox adapter are on the same bus, and that this is a separate bus from the one where the hardware input from your Xbox adapter is on the same bus as the hardware OUTput for your headphones.
This means that you can hear your buddies on Xbox chat, and they can hear you through the microphone you are using to record in OBS.
When you are done, you should ideally have 3 audio inputs in your OBS setup: your microphone, your xbox headset input, and your game audio (from whatever your usual capture method is). You should be able to control volume levels on all three separately, as well as enable or disable them as you wish.
For a more complete guide on the portion of this where you set up OBS and VoiceMeeter Banana, look here:
https://obsproject.com/forum/resources/voicemeeter-banana-audio-management-for-1-and-2-pc-streaming-setups.397/
"This device cannot start. (Code 10)" is a hardware error that most commonly means that you have a bad, missing, or incompatible device driver.
I'd recommend you try a different driver, or reinstall the amd driver, or pass through a different sound device. I have [this usb device] (https://www.amazon.com/external-Adapter-Windows-Microphone-SD-CM-UAUD/dp/B001MSS6CS) installed for when my intel hdaudio device fails.
Basically you would get super low volumes from the onboard Mic port. What I ended up doing was getting a cheap USB sound card just for the mic and it works fine.
From what I know there isn't a USB to 3.5mm+mic (single port) adaptor. There are adaptors with two ports for headphones and microphones. I heard this USB adaptor is good.
Also if you need a single port, then you can use the adaptor that came with your Bose headphones. If you've lost it, then you can use something like this. There are other similar adaptors so you can try something else if this doesn't work since some reviews say that it doesn't work with Apple in-line remotes.
Hope this works out for you!
Any USB to 3.5mm adapter should work, here's one I bought a few years ago for my Shield: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MSS6CS
The 598Cs are very efficient and don't need an amp to run well. If you're worried about running it through your mic, this is also a very cheap alternative.
I have never had a problem with any USB audio adapter on Chromebook, and have used several. Most recently, we used this one: http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS
But yours probably would be fine, too. It seems USB audio must be pretty standard the way HID devices are.
I recently came into a situation like this when switching from my HyperX Cloud IIs to audiophile-level headphones.
I solved my problem by buying a cheap condenser microphone + boom stand + usb audio adapter and then plugging my headphones in separately.
Not only did I end up with better sound quality, I ended up with better microphone quality than both a gaming headset and the ModMic / BoomPro.
Condenser Microphones need power to function. The audio port on your motherboard does not give nearly enough. The microphone will work much better and be less noisy with more power. You can either use a USB sound card to give the mic 5V of power or get a 48V phantom power supply to maximize your performance.
I got this USB Soundcard and this Power Supply. I use both together and It sounds great. The microphone also works alright with just the USB card. hope it helps. p.s. I have the same mic.
Dude, I was in the same situation as you! You might want to get one of these.
I picked one up when my built-in Microphone wasn't working on my Windows partition, but couldn't plug in my headset since it had dual audio in/out jacks.
You're the same Rae who plays on Reddit West, right? I don't know if you're near LA, but if you decide on getting a decent headset and want that adapter, we can meet up somewhere public and I can give you mine for 10 bucks; that way I get rid of something I don't need and you get something you do. :D
Maybe something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS (the PS4 works with USB headsets, so may just see this as a USB headset), but I'd say it's touch and go at best.
You could always go with headphones out of the controller (since we know that supports game audio and chat), or if you really wanted to torture yourself, run an audio cable from the controller to your audio setup. :)
The dongle worked with Traktor and Deckadance, both programs let you assign the dongle to one audio output and the internal card to another output. I would assume most dj programs work this way.
I don't know which brand of USB dongle, we picked it up at Microcenter a few years back. It was dirt cheap, so any of the amazon ones should be ok. If it helps, I would prolly buy this one myself... http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1381253283&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=usb+sound+card
FYI... I wouldn't use the dongle method for club gigs, but it's fine for practice/learning and house parties.
I have one of these bad boys, works great with my Mixtrack. Had it for a year and it's still tip top.
Syba USB Sound Card
> MOTHER FUCKER YOU CAN BUY AN ADAPTER FOR THE USB TO SUBSTITUTE FOR THAT!
There's this for $8. If you'd rather buy a more reputable brand, there's a Logitech one for $12.
Idk about OP, but I broke off the headphones in my computer's jack. Since then, I haven't been able to get sound on my computer except through a [USB audio adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS) or an HDMI cable. There is an app called airphones, but it has latency, so it's not very useful for stuff like youtube videos (which is all I would want the not so good sound for).
yah it seems that the headphone jack being broken is a downer, ive been using something like http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1425416726&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+headphone+adapter that i can throw in. also ive been offered 200 off ebay, i am in a good mood i see myself budging off my price if its reasonable :P
The onboard audio is truly shit if it is the same as my B450M Mortar (probably is). But you can just buy a cheap USB sound card to replace it. I bought a Syba adaptor for 8€ and it worked perfectly.
Your cheapest option would probably be something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MSS6CS/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I had a bunch of annoying popping and delays with my Z68 board's audio (Realtek 889) and decided to just go the USB audio route. This: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MSS6CS/ worked perfectly for me, but all I care about is basic stereo audio.
Look on amazon for an external USB sound card. They should be under $35. It will cost you way more to get one specific for your laptop.
This one is under $10
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001MSS6CS?cache=9bbbc8e17e0ec6e890ed3e4607e3f2ed&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;qid=1413334894&amp;sr=8-3#ref=mp_s_a_1_3
I had a similar issue and bought a usb instead it made a huge improvement in the mic quality. It reduces interference apparently and powers the mic also giving it a boost. That's what I was told anyway , all I know is for a few pounds it was a big boost.
&#x200B;
sorry forgot teh link
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001MSS6CS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Just picked up a ModMic to use for a Discord server. I was fully aware that plugging the mod mic directly into my motherboards on board audio input would cause issues. I plugged into a Syba USB Audio Adapter and I'm experiencing terrible feedback which sounds like a fan. Example here: https://clyp.it/pbnnmadw
I think it may be a PSU issue, maybe plugging it into an external USB would help?
Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
I actually had my motherboard audio die in me a couple years ago, and bought this one as a temp replacement until I could get a new pci-e sound card. Never got a new sound card it works great.
I think so! I also use an inexpensive mic but it sounds so much better with this Stereo Audio Adaptor: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MSS6CS from Amazon. I would recommend this over what you showed as it is $18 cheaper. I've used my adaptor for 6 months now. Listen to a bit of an episode on my channel to determine if the quality is good to you.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MSS6CS/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
and
http://www.ebay.com/itm/EASY-DIGI-Sound-Card-Interface-PSK-RTTY-SSTV-NBEMS-JT-65-PCB-KIT-/321046670079?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&amp;hash=item4abfdf6aff
Is what I've been using and suggesting to other people. No need to spend $100+ on a rigblaster.
You could always buy a USB sound adapter, then just disable the onboard soundcard and use the USB sound interface.
Syba SD-CM-UAUD
If you have a spare USB port, then this method will allow you to regain function without having to solder or anything.
Audio adaptor
What I did for my PS3 is getting a USB microphone/headset adapater. My headset (wired) has 2 different cords, one is speaker, other is microphone which makes this work just fine.
So my microphone cord goes into the USB adapter and my headset cord goes into my RCA to 3.5mm adapter for the PS3.
Here are a couple of pics: http://www.amazon.com/HDE-Channel-External-Sound-Adapter/dp/B0027EMHM6/ref=pd_cp_pc_2
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&amp;cp_id=10429&amp;cs_id=1042902&amp;p_id=7190&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2
Then in my PS3 settings I changed microphone and headphones to come out of the proper channels aka USB and RCA.
Here is a cheap one. There are many other reasonably priced ones on Amazon.
Go with something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0027EMHM6/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?qid=1408878246&amp;sr=8-6&amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
I hated the sound in my old work laptop, so i bought one of these - I think I paid like $10, but I don't remember the brand. The sound was actually really good when compared to other laptops in the office.
(Warning: probably won't live up to an audiophiles expectations.)
Unrelated to the post but I had similar problems with the audio on my desktop. I got this off Amazon(.ca) and it worked well. It's just something that plugs into a USB slot and gives you another audio port. It shipped from China and took forever to get here but it was cheap.
With a 2080ti you can use the virtualink USB-C port with an adapter for VR, or as an extra USB hub. You can also use a USB Sound Card to free up PCI-E slots
I'd also recommend saving a USB port for a small wireless touchpad/keyboard combo like the Logitech K400, as it's much more convenient than maneuvering a full keyboard and mouse around your wheel. Furthermore, make sure the motherboard you pick has several USB controllers as opposed to one controller for every USB port. It's not hard to overwork your USB controllers with sim racing peripherals, especially with VR.
It does... http://www.amazon.com/review/RIVGGC4UUXHB5/ref=cm_srch_res_rtr_alt_1
I have used this before...
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Adapter-External-Digital-ICUSBAUDIO7D/dp/B002LM0U2S/ref=pd_sim_e_31?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0CB2RMX6RTQSSVMPP8H0
But the rMBP has native optical out... so if your reciever has optical input, use this cable: http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&amp;cp_id=10229&amp;cs_id=1022902&amp;p_id=1556&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2
Maybe something like this would do the trick with a digital optical cable.
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Blaster-Surround-System-SB1095/dp/B0044DEDCA/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505352459&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=usb+5.1+sound+card
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Adapter-External-Digital-ICUSBAUDIO7D/dp/B002LM0U2S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505352459&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb+5.1+sound+card
what would keep you from running something like this? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002LM0U2S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002LM0U2S/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498745874&amp;sr=8-7&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=usb+sound+card+dual+mic&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41vusjGecFL&amp;ref=plSrch
Here's the one I use, I got it for around 20 though, and it only has 2 inputs. Alternatively, you could buy two of these,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498746083&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=usb+sound+card&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51FLiQuh7EL&amp;ref=plSrch
and use them in conjunction with your computer's microphone Jack, provided you have enough usb ports.
My recommendation is to shop around, your problem should be easily solved with under 20 bucks. Good luck :)
I'm still a kid at heart!
I play video games all the time and have a lot of amazing memories. One of the best I have is from only two years ago. I moved out of my parents and took my 360 with me. A week after that my parents split and my younger brother was still living at home and didn't know what to do. Sadly, he chose to stay with my dad. I love my dad but he isn't a good influence.
Christmas rolled around and I found out my brother didn't have internet, cable, and was watching the same DVDs over and over everyday. As a gift to him I convinced my mother to help pitch in to get internet. The main reason I wanted them to have internet was because I had bought him and xbox 360, a year of gold, 3 games, and 1600 MS points.
Fast forward to now and I'm even more glad I got the console for him because he has been going through some tough times getting off of drugs and has moved into my mother's place. It seems like he is doing really well now and we play games with each other and I know it helps keep his mind off of other things.
This item is cool and would help me from having to get behind my tower when i switch from Xbox to PC (which i do constantly).
I ordered this
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036VO4XO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 and it works perfectly. and according to people on their support forums it could never be fixed or may take a long time to fix it.
You need an external sound card like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004Y0ERRO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wWyIAbCHD5SHS
That squid cable is likely to blame.
It's my time to shine.
Ok. First thing's first. Check if your laptop has a line-in port instead of a microphone jack because plugging it directly into the microphone port might not record the audio perfectly (in my experience) and it also damages the microphone port a bit (the signal that's being sent from your 3DS is too strong for it to handle). If you don't have one, look for an external one like this though you could probably find one cheaper.
Next you want an Aux cable (which I think you've already found) to plug in to the line in port.
Also, I haven't used it personally, but I've heard good things about this unit:
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Performance-Headphone-Integrated-Microphone/dp/B00EZT7RE4/
It may be closer to what you are looking for.
Well damn. Sorry you have to deal with that stuff! That is really frustrating!
My last suggestion, if you are willing, is to get a cheap USB Sound Card and completely bypass your internal jack. As that could be the issue as well.
It is a really cheap test and it would let you know if it is the headset or the jack or the adapter.
Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Aluminum-External-Adapter-AU-EMAC/dp/B00OJ5AV8I/
Or this:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
Anyway, good luck on solving that issue man. And if they USB Sound Card works you could try some different headsets/headphones. Just remember that those USB Sound Cards are very basic and offer little to no amping. So you wont be getting the best sound quality. But it would definitely be equivalent to the onboard sound of laptops. And let you test your situation.
If you want to do a serious upgrade in sound quality, get the Sound Blaster Omni 5.1.
I have it and it amps all my headphones perfectly and has so many features and options and is rock solid. It does have an integrated mic into the unit and does noise cancel quite well but I wouldn't recommend it if you can use one on a headset as that would probably be clearer.
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Performance-Headphone-Integrated-Microphone/dp/B00EZT7RE4/
Just letting you know of the options, and sorry about all the info.
The reason I thought it could be the adapter or port is because I have the Game One and the SHP 9500's which are VERY open and leak sound substantially and I never get the mic picking up the audio from the headphones when using voice activated on PC or even on PS4 which is only voice activated.
Also, I just noticed something from your wording and just want to clarify something.
You are saying that when you are on a voice chat program with someone, they hear coming through your mic what is playing on your headphones right? It's not that you are hearing your mic in your headphones right? Just being sure. Because if you hear your mic in your headphones that is a completely different issue and can be disabled by going into your speaker settings and muting the mic playback which plays back to your headphones for closed headphones so you can hear yourself without having to yell it's called sidetone. Anyway, this is probably definitely not the issue but I just want to clarify so we can rule out everything else.
I think it will save you some hassle if you’ve already got a stereo setup you can use for the surround channels. Or a set of “computer speakers” as the post below suggests. Not sure what kind of connectivity you’ve got now but one option is this USB “card”:
Creative Sound Blaster Omni Surround 5.1 USB Sound Card with High Performance Headphone Amp and Integrated Beam Forming Microphone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EZT7RE4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lBZ-BbBMSVZNP
As far as movies vs video games go, yeah, the same system should work for both. It’s up to whatever software you’re using to provide a surround signal for your card to use.
No worries! If you are plugging in that cable that came with the headset into your PC's speaker out you will only get audio out to the headset and no mic. You want to get a 3.5mm female to 2-port male splitter, one into your speaker out and other into your mic in on your PC onboard audio IO. Then you can utilize the mic on the headset as well with the connection. Sorry I assumed you knew about this required cable for that kind of setup :) https://www.amazon.com/Y-Splitter-Separate-Headphone-Earphone-Microphone/dp/B01LXT0YGT/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=3.5mm+splitter+female+to+2+male&amp;qid=1557688359&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-9
If in the future you are interested in more power / wider range of freq response i'd get a cheap external DAC for your PC. DAC will give you more power / isolate interference from the inside of your PC, but DAC is optional. This is one of the popular ones for a good price: https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Performance-Headphone-Integrated-Microphone/dp/B00EZT7RE4/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=external+dac&amp;qid=1557687805&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-6
I never could get my audio working out of that board. I tried all the solutions I could find and none of them worked for me.
I ended up getting a Creative Soundblaster Omni USB. It works great in both macOS and windows. Could I have gotten sound to work? Maybe but I was at the end of my tweaking rope. It was worth the $70 to solve the problem.
should probably check our /r/headphones
It depends what your onboard is and how terrible it is. I use this creative usb as the input for my modmic 4. I use a yulong u100 as my output dac/amp to my Senn HD598s for gaming, but use a Bifrost Uber and Lyr 2 to drive my hifiman HE500s.
I just tested my mod mic with onboard, my portable xonar U3, and the creative usb. Onboard without mic boost was inaudible, with mic boost it's ok, but not great. The U3 has no mic boost and fell half way between onboard without boost and with, but sounded much better. The creative USB with boost off was about the same as the U3, but with boost I have to turn the gain down to about 70% or it is overbearingly loud. I position the mic about 1" from the side of my mouth as it's supposed to be placed.
output impedance is pretty high on the STX, the usual 10Ω found in soundcards. The DAC in it is decent, but the output stage is pretty blah. You're better off with a real headphone amp.
If you're getting ready to piss $200 on an STX, skip it and buy a Magni 2/Modi 2 stack or O2+ODAC for the headphones, then a something like an X-fi go for mic input.
There's a wide range of options, from the "$10-15, decent, it works": https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Adapter-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B01HPMHOY0/
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Converter-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B01M7QQQC7/
There's fancier stuff:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0044DEDCA/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018JUPY3A/
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Performance-Headphone-Integrated-Microphone/dp/B00EZT7RE4/
Or for the wealthy audiophile: https://www.amazon.com/Creative-X7-High-Resolution-Headphone-Connectivity/dp/B00Q3XLGLU/
Thanks, it was quite the experience. I hope you're excited for it.
There's also Mobo's that have 5.1 or 7.1 capabilities, like this one, or external sound 'cards' like this one. Consider those while part hunting too.
Got the headphones. Love them! I just bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EZT7RE4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 so that it's even better hopefully. Thanks for the advice.
You can get away with 128GB it will even have some extra room mostly because you're dual booting it will take a while to even fill a 128GB SSD also Sweex 7.1 External USB Sound Card or StarTech.com External Sound Card USB Stereo Audio Adapter they're both pretty good alternately you can get a headset with the soundcard built in but, those are pretty expensive and worse than getting a pair of AKG's and getting a nice modded mic with it
Are there any good audio interfaces / external sound cards that can sit on my desk and allow me to plug in a 3.5mm headset and ideally have some sort of volume knob too? My PC sits under my desk and running a long extension cable to it is less than ideal. I'd rather have a small device sit on my desk that I can easily plug into when needed.
I've found this but it looks more in-line than "desktop". Also this one that doesn't have a combo jack. Anything else similar I may not be aware of?
I'm assuming you're playing the microphone back into your headphones for this experiment?
I think I have the exact motherboard you do (rev 2, iirc) - I skipped using the sound on it alltogether - I seem to remember not being terribly impressed with it. I use an Asus Xonar Essence STX instead.
Not sure my modmic gives me any background noise problems though (an I use mic boost.) The mic is directional - did you bend it to point at your mouth?
A cheap solution for you would be this:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=pd_lpo_147_bs_lp_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=BJKANZEFTAHA41335G7E
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483415525&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=USB+sound+card
something like this would work beautifully, honestly, most of them will work, but if you want to be 100 percent sure, make sure they say that they're compatible with Mac OS X.
I tried all these things and none of them worked. My Mobo is an ASUS Z-97-E. I tried a clean install avoiding multibeast and still no sound devices detected.
I have read that the codec my Mobo uses according to its specs is not supported in Sierra.
I bypassed the problem by using this sound adaptor. I just plugged it in and viola it works and requires no driver's or configuration. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I am not the only one who has had to go this route and it's a darned cheap solution.
Everyone: Thanks for the help. I assumed it was some electrical issue on her computer's end, but good to know a USB sound card works as a workaround and I don't have to go to her office and crack her computer open :) I decided to spend a few bucks to get the best-reviewed one on Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A29Y8OP2GPR7PE
Thanks again for the help!
Something like this could work. If you have an extra usb.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1453144607&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=usb+audio+interface&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51FLiQuh7EL&amp;ref=plSrch
I got this one:
http://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1452223238&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=usb+sound+card&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51X7EKiV8fL&amp;ref=plSrch
It's been great so far.
I was in the same boat as you until now. My MB also uses Realtek audio (Gigabyte GA-H110M-A) and the only solution I've found for getting my mic to playback at a normal volume is using all of the following:
Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and play No drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA)
Maeline 3.5mm Female to 2 Male Gold Plated Headphone Mic Audio Y Splitter Flat Cable
Panasonic ErgoFit In-Ear Earbuds Headphones with Mic/Controller RP-TCM125-K (Black)
Total is about $25. Weird thing is if I plug headphones and a mic separately into the USB piece the mic volume then goes back to being low.
This isn't the best solution, but I know there are a lot of folks out there struggling with crappy ass Realtek.
You could use this with any USB hub, or get a more expensive DAC if you are concerned about audio quality.
Note that both this device and what /u/Overflooow mentions have the DAC (Digital to Analog Coverter) in the device, so motherboard audio is not used at all. If you would prefer to use motherboard audio (no real reason to), you can get a couple of a 3.5mm extensions.
Wonder if it’s the port on the computer. Is this a laptop or desktop? You could get a usb to 3.5mm plug just to test. Let me find a link, I have one.
Edit:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IRVQ0F8?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title
My headphone jack also went loose, and cannot properly connect a headphone any more. So, I did this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8
Works pretty darn well!
Thanks for this! I ended up ordering one that matches the macbook. It's times like these that I'm extra thankful for dongles.
Setting up a windows share on your Windows 7 system where your music is located. First three steps of this link:
https://www.howtogeek.com/176471/how-to-share-files-between-windows-and-linux/
How to set up Volumio:
https://volumio.github.io/docs/User_Manual/Quick_Start_Guide.html
In Volumio, click on the gear icon in the upper right, and go to My Music. And set up the Network Drives section so that it points to your Windows 7 system share.
Instead of using Windows Shares, you can use Your Windows box as a DLNA Server:
http://av.jpn.support.panasonic.com/support/global/cs/bd/faq/DLNA.html
Receiving DLNA on Volumio:
https://volumio.github.io/docs/User_Manual/Stream_audio_to_volumio.html
Other Pi music distributions:
http://www.pimusicbox.com/
https://www.max2play.com/en/
http://www.runeaudio.com/
Cheap USB sound card:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Aluminum-External-Adapter-AU-EMAC/dp/B00OJ5AV8I/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics
Better USB sound card:
https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Input-Output-Audio-Interface/dp/B00S668FWK/ref=sr_1_3
Cheap DAC HAT that wil work on a Pi 1B+:
https://www.adafruit.com/product/3016
Other Pi DAC HATS. Need to make sure that they work on a Pi 1B:
http://raspi.tv/2016/dac-review
I'm using an iMac. Both with on board sound card and with Chinese crap usb mini soundcard it works ok.
That sounds more like a driver or hardware issue IMO. If you're still having the issue, I'd recommend consulting this thread, and if that doesn't work buying one of these. Pretty cheap and pretty useful, was a big help when my soundcard starting shitting itself.
Hmm... I'm assuming by directional sound you mean the ability to tell which direction sounds are coming from? This is more software based and not hardware. Sound cards are pointless, amps are nice but really used more for high end monitoring headphones. The way your brain works (since you only have 2 ears), you judge direction by time delay, wavelength, and tone. For gaming, the in game sounds will simulate this effect, so special headphones are not necessary.
> My motherboard is MSI Z170-A PRO I read a little about this and allot of people said your motherboard can affect this.
It's not ideal or audiophiles, and can also cause static due to electric interference. If you're just gaming, something like this is a cheap and effective solution.
I have an Antlion Modmic and I had the same hissing issue, but to solve it I just bought a $5 usb-to-3.5mm adapter from amazon and plugged the mic jack into there. Mic sounds great now, and my headphones are still through my DAC.
Here's the exact adapter I got if you're curious, no issues on Win10.
I had noise leaking from my modem into my on-board sound one time, and no matter how much I tried to insulate it, some noise got through. My solution was to buy a USB sound adapter and disable the on-board completely.
This is the one I use. $13 bucks :P https://www.amazon.com/Optimal-Shop-External-Channel-Surround/dp/B00Q4WQ7XW/ref=sr_1_8?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518862926&amp;sr=1-8&amp;keywords=sound+card
I have actually done this exact thing! I purchased Optimal Shop USB 2.0 External Sound Card 6 Channel 5.1 Surround Adapter Audio S/PDIF for PC-Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q4WQ7XW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zuAeAb8W124J2 because it was cheap and worth a shot. It has been extremely good to use and I have had no issues with it whatsoever. The software is a bit...low budget, but it has all the features that you could need.
I had the exact same problem with my motherboard. I bought this and it works great, no drivers required, on Linux or Windows.
https://www.amazon.com/Optimal-Shop-Channel-External-Surround/dp/B00Q4WQ7XW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467733609&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+5.1
Okay then you should get some form of soundcard, there are a few options available to you.
First of all at the risk of insulting your intelligence, it's not really possible to replace the motherboard audio chip, so that's not really an option.
Secondly if you are looking for an internal solution, you could get a PCI or PCIe soundcard, you can get good second hand PCI soundcards off Ebay for cheap. The downside to this however is that they usually don't have connectors to plug the front audio IO on your case into, so you would likely need to use the audio ports from the back, and perhaps an audio jack extension cable to help you reach your headphones.
Thirdly you can get cheap USB soundcards such as this one which you can just plug into your computer anywhere and are really handy. I personnally recommend the one I just linked as I have been using it for a couple of years now and it has good audio quality with no noticeable background noise. For the price and convenience this is the best option.
Finally you can get other types of USB sound cards and DACs which sit on your desk and connect to your computer by a cable. These can be £25+, and have the advantage of have a volume knob right infront of you, with the £100+ DACs being Audiophile type hardware which to be honest you probably don't need.
I recommend the Trond USB soundcard.
Because the PS4 is your primary usage with the HD800S, I recommend trying the Creative Sound BlasterX G5. This is entry level as a DAC/AMP combo unit but should work very well in your use case. This device is designed for consoles and PC usage and can produce very good audio from your PS4 (and PC) over a USB connection and it has separate 3.5 mm connections for the headphones and a mic (HD800S does not have a mic, but if you play online games with friends you will want to get something like the Antlion Audio ModMic to turn the headphones into a headset when you want to. If you get the G5, do not use the virtual surround sound SB-Axx1 and Scout Mode options, they are likely not as good as the standard audio output. An alternative to the Creative G5 would be a Schiit Audio Modi 2 DAC (connect to PS4 over optical instead of USB) paired with a Schiit Audio Magni 3 AMP. This "Schiit stack" as it is often called is less gamer focussed (no mic input, etc) but would still be fantastic for gaming and listening to music and is highly recommended in the audio community. You would need both the Magni 3 AMP and the Modi 2 DAC linked together to get sound - whereas you could alternatively use the all in on Creative G5. These options are audiophile entry level, but should impress you since you are so happy with the headphones on the PS4 controller already. I would try and recommend something more expensive, but honestly don't think you need that and I would have difficulty recommending more expensive devices since I dont have proper experience with that level of DACs and AMPs. TLDR; Get the Creative Sound BlasterX G5 if you want to use a mic on your PS4 with the headphones, and get the Antlion Audio ModMic to turn the headphones into a headset when you want to talk in games with friends and online gamers. If you dont need to use a mic on your PS4 and price is no matter to you (G5 is cheaper), then get the Schiit Audio Modi 2 DAC and the Schiit Audio Magni 3 AMP. Also, regardless of which DAC and AMP you get, get some nice cables off Amazon for USB or optical for your setup to connect from the PS4 to your couch/coffee table where you probably game.
This?
So I found these on sale:
https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/comments/cksomh/headphones_beyerdynamic_dt990_pro_250%CF%89_stand_and/
Is 80ohm better on these than 250? Someone also recommend this :
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-BlasterX-Headphone-Surround-Amplifier/dp/B018JUPY3A
Thoughts?
So I decided to buy a sound card (G5) to try to combine it with the Mobius, because I thought it might help, but unfortunately it didn't work. So I was returning the sound card the next day, I was really set on returning the DT 1990 Pro too. However, during the night before returning the sound card tomorrow, I decided to give the DT 1990 one last try, since it seemed to be more compatible with the sound card. OMG, the DT 1990 just jumped by a couple levels of improvements, most probably because of the amp that's also in the sound card, because the DT 1990's volume is really low, even at 100%, I could only go up to 26% with the sound card. So at that last minute, the DT 1990 made a massive comeback and won the competition for me, of which headphone is better. In the end, I decided to stick with the DT 1990 because it was just on a whole new level of sound clarity, I'm not even hardcore when it comes to audio stuff, but even I could tell the difference, DT 1990 was just that good. After I returned the G5, I decided to upgrade to the G6, latest model, and now that's the setup I have now. Using my DT 1990, connecting it to the external sound card G6, then to my PC, its a really easy setup. I wanted an external sound card because I wanted a physical volume knob I can control with, instead of using some command on the keyboard or alt tab out to change the volume. A bit after that, I needed a new mic, since the Dt 1990 is just standalone headphone, I went with the Antlion wireless Modmic, and it is a really good mic too, I love it, I even wrote a review on it on Amazon if you wish to read it, got pictures included, it is under the same name as my Reddit name. I hope this has helped you to decide, let me know if you need to know anything else!
ditch the origen, you can get a G5 for $112.50 and free shipping. Good dac, good amp, good mic input. You need to use the coupon code LABOR25 at checkout
http://us.creative.com/p/sound-blaster/sound-blasterx-g5
EDIT: nevermind you can get it on amazon for $96 ! https://www.amazon.com/Creative-BlasterX-Headphone-Amplifier-SB1700/dp/B018JUPY3A
I ended up getting this. Loving it so far.
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-BlasterX-Headphone-Surround-Amplifier/dp/B018JUPY3A
I'm not totally sure I follow what you're doing, but it sounds like you might need something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SP0WAQ
Maybe combined with a female-female TRRRS a coupler, depending on what you're going for in the end. It sounds like the Vive headset doesn't have the third Ring for microphone input, so you'll need to split it off and send it separately somehow. You might actually want to get one of those tiny USB sound cards (with separate headset and Mic ports) and plug it into the Vive, then plug the Mic cord from this adapter into it with a male-male coupler.
Like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LH1NQ9W
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Creative-BlasterX-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B01EOPT0VG/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=sound+usb+dac&amp;qid=1562269311&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-8
For your budget and they are decent
If you want something to tie you over and cheap.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/UGREEN-External-Converter-Microphone-Raspberry/dp/B01M7QQQC7/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=sound+usb+dac&amp;qid=1562269378&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
Well I plan to use a USB adapter to four all weather speakers. I found one with RCA output connectors https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Converter-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B01M7QQQC7/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=usb+audio+adapter+RCA&qid=1569119730&sr=8-4. My music is all on an external USB drive so I have loads of space. Still building my system so never know.
theyre pretty cheap, some of them under ten bucks
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Converter-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B01M7QQQC7/ref=sr_1_4?
Basically, the 3.5mm jack you're plugging into isn't supplying enough power, while the USB was, so you'll need some sort of headphone amplifier. I use this thing with my HD6XX, and it's by no means at all great, but it's good enough!
Well a on board sound card can create static noise and other issues which might be helped by something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524710135&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=usb+mic+sound+card&amp;psc=1
Whether OP should go for a USB adapter or an adapter cable depends mostly on the quality of the laptop's DAC. Cheap USB adapters have pretty bad quality and are about the same price as a cable. If the laptop is only a few years old, then the on-board audio is probably better than a cheap USB adapter, so a cable would be better.
Link to an example of the type of cable OP is looking for: https://www.amazon.com/Headsets-Splitter-Separate-Headphone-Nintendo/dp/B07FB8LCQ7/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=4+pole+adapter&amp;qid=1563189665&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=4+pole+ad&amp;sr=8-6
Link to a USB adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?keywords=usb+dac+microphone&amp;qid=1563189766&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=USB+DAC+mic&amp;sr=8-9
You can do something like this with a mixer. The questions mainly comes down to: What is it worth to you? Do you use an external DAC/AMP?
If you do use an external DAC/AMP: This will work and will be slightly cheaper.
IF you do not use an external DAC/AMP: This will need extra equipment: Your choice between a DAC/AMP or a USB Sound Card.
The Equipment
Mixer $40 - The mixer is what you will use to control volume of the 2 channels. You can also use it for a microphone if you choose to get one down the road!
Cables x2 $20 - These are for the Output of your computer.
Cable x1 $7 - This cable is for the Output of the mixer.
USB Soundcard $8 - This is OPTIONAL. You only need it if you don't have a DAC/AMP. However it would be a nice addition if you don't want to run a cable to the front of your PC.
Total: $67-$75
The Setup
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496691173&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=usb+external+sound+card&amp;psc=1
something like this - basically you plug it in to a USB port and then plug your headphones into it. the important part is that it doesn't use the realtek audio driver, which I suspect has issues with Frostbite engine (for some reason)
Hi hi hi friends,
I bought my Sennheiser HD 598 CS's during black friday and I cant help but feel like I'm not getting the most out of them. Right now I have them connected, along with a ModMic, to my mobo with this.
I had my eyes set on these;
FiiO E10K
Optomo NuForce
So, my question is, should I get either of these DACs or is it not really worth the price I'm intending to pay? If I should buy a DAC which one of these should I get? Or is there a better one around this price point?
Budget: $150cad
Location: Canada
Thanks for any help!
Your laptop might not support a microphone. Traditional 3.5mm jacks have 3 connectors, left speaker, right speaker and ground. Headset jacks have 4, left speaker, right speaker, microphone and ground. If your laptop can only read the 2 speakers and ground, it literally doesn't have the hardware capability to read microphone signals.
I'd get a USB 3.5mm jack card.
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=MG0GPV1YNHFG89XDKCMN
As long as it fits, it should work. You have to keep in mind that the USB ports on the PS4 are recessed. Something with a cable would be a safer bet.
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=sspa_dk_detail_5?psc=1
Yes, it's worth trying as it will likely solve your problem. I've got a "UGreen" USB audio dongle. It works surprisingly well. Sounds fine.
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520738345&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=ugreen+usb
Alright guys here goes!
First of all I'm using a Intel Movidius neural compute stick to accelerate the raspberry pi's ability to read the graph of a pre-trained MobilenetSSD. I'll move on to training with my own data shortly - https://software.intel.com/en-us/movidius-ncs
This is a great tutorial regarding getting started with the Movidius . I made a few modifications so the presence of an object would halt or trigger a function or method - https://www.pyimagesearch.com/2018/02/19/real-time-object-detection-on-the-raspberry-pi-with-the-movidius-ncs/
This all requires a raspberry pi camera board v2 and an extra long ribbon to allow for head movement -
https://www.robotshop.com/ca/en/raspberry-pi-camera-module-v2.html
https://www.robotshop.com/ca/en/300mm-flex-cable-raspberry-pi-camera.html
As for the head it's a Lynxmotion pan and tilt kit, I bought the servos separately -https://www.robotshop.com/ca/en/lynxmotion-pan-and-tilt-kit-aluminium2.html?gclid=Cj0K
I use the Pigpio library for the servos. Which works with a surprisingly low amount of jitter considering - https://github.com/joan2937/pigpio
I also created my own custom functions in conjunction with the pigpio library in order to add delays to the servo rotation whenever I need, giving me the ability to animate his movement further.
I'm struggling to reliably stabilise his ultrasonic range sensor so I'm thinking of moving on to lidar once I get back to the UK but you can grab a cheap HC-SR04 sensor for ~$5 easily -https://www.robotshop.com/ca/en/hc-sr04-ultra01-ultrasonic-range-finder.html
I use the Adafruit motor hat, specifically designed for the Raspberry pi - https://github.com/adafruit/Adafruit-Motor-HAT-Python-Library.
https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-dc-and-stepper-motor-hat-for-raspberry-pi/overview
The hat works in conjunction with some pretty hefty 12v DC geared motor, although I don't remember their RPM. Either way they allow for some pretty granular movement that gives the anthropomorphic vibe I was looking for!
As i mentioned below too the treads are Lynxmotion and the chassis is Lynxmotion and part debris form the prototype build. the lynxmotion chassis is great because it has a bunch of space to house two battery packs and excess wire. One pack for the track motors and one pack for the servos -
https://www.robotshop.com/ca/en/lynxmotion-tri-track-chassis-kit.html
Throw in a bunch of 1/2 size perma-proto boards from Adafruit, some custom circuitry, a max98306 stereo amplifier, a powerboost 1000c, a 5v lipo, a Ugreen USB sound card, 2 8 ohm 0.5w speakers, some hacked up acrylic housing from an old Arduino Uno, and you have a surprisingly powerful sound system -
https://www.adafruit.com/product/987
https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-powerboost-1000c-load-share-usb-charge-boost/overview
https://www.amazon.ca/UGREEN-Universal-3-Position-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_2/131-4509517-7844215?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01N905VOY&pd_rd_r=14e1a4dc-62b7-11e9-af2b-df456cd2a423&pd_rd_w=rTNLv&pd_rd_wg=z1Y3n&pf_rd_p=a62e2918-d998-4bbb-8337-35aac776e851&pf_rd_r=KJNTZV474QCZ8NXNA09X&psc=1&refRID=KJNTZV474QCZ8NXNA09X
https://www.adafruit.com/product/571
To play sound within the program itself I just use the os library and aplay.
For speech synthesis I use a Marytts local text to speech server - https://github.com/marytts/marytts.
Add to that some simple use of the Python format method, a library of random phrases I'm slowly building and you have a talking robot.
Oh hey and it's worth mentioning that the raspberry pi itself is powered by a simple portable charging bank and that power to the tracks, head, raspberry pi and sound are all on separate circuits with switches for the sake of debugging.
In terms of how the recognition affects movement. I have a detection method running in one thread. If an object is present according to the pre-trained model it assigns the object class to a global attribute. In the main thread I have his movement methods running - that can literally do anything so long as the object/objects isn't present - otherwise the method triggers a return statement and he moves on to the next function in the main program etc.
Now I have all of this up and running I'm hoping to have him follow the object he's been assigned to find! Hopefully I'll have a video of that up soon :D
If it's a 3.5mm mic, you will need a USB soundcard (like this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N905VOY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1)
Plug that in, plug the mic into that and it will work (or so I've read, I'm actually trying this out tonight when I get home from work, so I'll post back in a few hours the results)
If you have the Tonor USB mic, I believe that'll be strict plug and play.
My suggestion: If you are against the separate headphone+mic setup pick up the Sennheiser Game one/zero. See how that works. If it still feel bad maybe consider an very cheap usb/dac solution, an example https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Labs-70SB173000000-Sound-Blaster/dp/B06XBZ38ZJ/ref=sr_1_19?keywords=usb+dac+amp&amp;qid=1565901861&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-19
I've had a pack of 10 generic electret mics resembling this (that I got for like $1 each) lying around since 2010, and tonight I used them along with the $18 Soundblaster Play 3 (which supplies the mics with 2.7VDC by default so I didn't need to deal with bias supplies) and a Pi Zero to test the Solo acoustic datalogger project by James Christie and Robbie Whytock which worked awesome and just saved my ass.
Last Friday I needed to build a stable platform to autonomously acquire a month of hydrophone data from a remote field site, on 3 days notice, and purely because of those guys' work on Solo I just pulled that shit off like a boss...
So check out Solo and dig into their repo if you haven't already, that $18 SB3 interface they spec along with my dirt-cheap condensers are evidently capable of scientific-grade audio capture with pretty much zero dicking around.
For affordable reference mics on a slightly more serious level I highly recommend these bad boys from Dayton. Those are also just generic condensers worth no more than a few bucks each, except the lab calibration data included with each mic would cost me a hell of a lot more than the $70 they ask. But for what you're doing I bet a standard cheap lavalier mic powered off the SB3 bias supply will work surprisingly well.
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Good luck and have fun!
i can recommend a raspberry pi running Volumio, for a super friendly interface for music.
you can plug in any external USB HD you want, as long as the external has a PSU.
for your budget, i'd suggest getting a Pi 4, which will perform much faster than the Zero i'm using, plus has usb3.1 bus speed for super fast interface w/your external HD of music.
you can save some money by getting the model w/2gb memory VS 4gb.
probably add a nice aluminum case, but i'd skip one with a fan, they're noisy apparently.
you'll also need a microSD card and a USB charger for power.
splurge on a decent USB sound card, https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Labs-70SB173000000-Sound-Blaster/dp/B06XBZ38ZJ/
Volumio is free. http://www.volumio.com, you can interface w/Volumio from your phone or pointing any other computer on your network at the Pi, or plug the HDMI out from the Pi into a TV.
so, you're talking $120 for the whole rig?
more spendy than a used laptop from ebay, but the whole thing is the size of a pack of cards and you can basically drop it behind your amp and forget about it. i'm fairly sure that Volumio has a decent interface for uploading new music onto any drive plugged into the system.
Your headset uses a 3.5mm 4-pole jack. 1 wire each for the left, the right, the microphone, and the ground.
Does your laptop have 2 3.5mm holes? If so, they're probably 3-pole jacks. The headphone jack has a left, right, and ground; and the microphone jack has an input and a separate ground. You'll need a splitter to split the headphones and microphone, like this.
https://www.amazon.com/aceyoon-Splitter-Headphones-Auxiliary-Computers/dp/B07KSYL2L6/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=3.5+4-pole+splitter&qid=1570374533&s=electronics&sr=1-9
If your laptop only has 1 hole, then it probably doesn't have microphone input, or it isn't working. You can still get a USB adapter that accepts 4-pole like this.
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Labs-70SB173000000-Sound-Blaster/dp/B06XBZ38ZJ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3QYAEMWJHTJM9&keywords=sound+blaster+play+3&qid=1570374888&s=electronics&sprefix=sound+blaster+pl%2Celectronics%2C138&sr=1-3
And just to make sure, plug your headset into a phone with a 3.5mm jack to see if it recognizes as a headset and the mic works. Hope this helps.
Good luck. You're gonna need a mess of adapters to accomplish that.
What you're going to need to ultimately do is get PS4 audio sent as an input into your PC and connect your headphones directly to your PC so you can hear both at the same time.
So firstly you're gonna need to make sure you have an Audio IN port on your PC. Next is transferring the Audio over to your PC. The easiest way to do this is pick yourself up a sound card with optical input. Something like this could work.
https://www.amazon.com/Blaster-Performance-Headphone-Forming-Microphone/dp/B009ISU33E/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511642837&amp;sr=1-1&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A4091980011%2C2889460011
Then you could run the optical cable from the PS4 to the Optical IN on the card and have it do live playback.
The second cheaper option would be to get one of these devices.
https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511642983&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=optical+to+3.5mm
Then run a 3.5mm into your PC. It likely won't sound as good but in theory it should work.
You would of course need to make sure you 3.5mm MIC/AUX Input on your PC.
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Converter-Adapter-Desktops/dp/B06XP5R449/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511643145&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=usb+3.5mm+aux+input
Something like this could work on your PC if you didn't have a 3.5mm aux input.
Obviously you'd need the 3.5mm cable like this.
https://www.amazon.com/FosPower-Stereo-Auxiliary-iPhone-Samsung/dp/B00LBJ77ZK/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511643286&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=3.5mm+audio+cable+25ft
And you'd need an optical cable that would plug into the adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink/dp/B00NH11H38/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511643360&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=Optical+cable
I'm in the same boat as you, but unfortunately I can't connect my headset to the PC directly. The only potential work around I have is using a USB headset adapter like this to see if that helps with the echo. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XP5R449/
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But that's a little steep for something that should work as is with the equipment you have. I really hope they fix this audio issue soon as I can't play with friends on PC otherwise.
I would make sure you don't have the Stereo Mix under recording devices enabled, as that could be causing an echo as well.
Buying $200 worth of DAC/Amp equipment for $150 headphones going into a game console is way not worth it.
/u/LordanTroi, if you're sitting right beside your PS4 in front of a monitor like I'm imagining (since you used to plug in your headphones directly into your monitor), just go ahead and get a USB to 3.5mm adapter and call it a day. Your volume will be fine. Don't get type C -> 3.5mm; the PS4 doesn't have a type C port. It's the normal blocky one we've been using for ages, that's called USB type A.
UGREEN USB Sound Card External Converter, USB Audio Adapter with 3.5mm Aux Stereo for Headset, PC, Laptops, Desktops, PS4, Windows, Mac, and Linux https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XP5R449/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uS9rzbSS3XTQR
So an extension cable is almost guaranteed to only be TRS and not a 4 pole connector like what your apple headphones need. Easiest way would be something like this and if you need extra length, then get a USB extension.
Something like this?:
https://www.amazon.ca/UGREEN-Adapter-External-Stereo-Headset/dp/B06XP5R449
If I plug the USB into the PS4, and use a double-ended Aux, will sound come out of the speakers?
> Mic Y Splitter Cable
There are also USB adapters with a headphone jack and a mic input like this one though depending on the connector you could just use one like this
Use something like this in the usb port on the headset.
Sadly I don't have that option
And yes the headphones were in the proper way haha
Thanks for your link, I think I found what would work for my Astro in the related items
this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XP5R449/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wKCdBbZGD9Y92
ty
You need this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XP5R449/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Works great for my xbone headset
i used to want to upgrade my pc audio and get a DAC/AMP setup. i tried this with my Vmoda Crossfade M100s with boom mic pro and it sounds great. just plugs into one of my front USB ports and use my standard 3.5mm jack from my boom mic pro cable. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XP5R449/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
i believe the Q702 have 62ohm impedance with 105db sensitivity, so they should be easily driven by your onboard sound.
as far as problems reported on your setup, i can not comment on that. nor have i owned a stack like the schiit you're looking at. but i can attest that my headphones sound great for gaming and music i can hear footsteps coming from different directions easily.
99.9 yes. I have found a few that might work. None do power however. Best bet is to get a USB-C hub that supports power passthough (There dangers lie though) One had a review that it would work.
this one is confirmed to work by reviewers.
The following should work but have not been tested.
Please email [email protected] and let them know how important it is on both USB-C headphones and USB-C 3.5 adapters to specify in the description that the adapter/headphones support Digital Out(they include a DAC). Without that there would be no way that we would be able to tell if something would work or not.
Also please contact your favorite audio adapter company and let them know there is a demand for this. Be sure to specify that it must include a DAC for it to work with all phones coming out(unless the phone installs some proprietary blocking system).
I would assume something like https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B071HJ98Q6 would be an easy solution. Haven't tested this though yet, but I'm ordering one.
Just get a 1/8" male to 1 /4" female converter and a usb to 1/8" female and you'll be set.
Such as:
USB Sound Card Adapter BENGOO External Audio Adapter Stereo Sound Card Converter 3.5mm AUX Microphone Jack for Gaming Headset Earphone PS4 Laptop Desktop Windows Mac OS Linux, Plug Play https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072BMG9TB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_OvTWBbSKNAWJK
And
Mobi Lock Gold-Plated 3.5 mm (1/8 inch) to 6.3mm (1/4 inch) Male to Female Stereo Adapter and Audio Jack Connector (Pack of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CEZJJYQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_4wTWBbMQ8VMY9
When your own computer manufacturer tells you he's a moron, take his word for it.
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-External-Desktop-Windows-drivers/dp/B072BMG9TB/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1502677304&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=usb+sound+adapter+linux
Work around the problem. There is no driver. It's proprietary. You're Fked.
Try another set of speakers or some headphones in that jack. If it’s still mono then it’s a dirty or damaged jack. You can try cleaning it with a cotton bud (QTip for those of you in the states) or you can buy a very cheap USB sound card like this: Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and play No drivers Needed. [Black] (AU-MMSA) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UG0EAbFN5KFSM
You need a usb mic splitter, I have this one Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and Play No Drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FpvkDbQVRART1
I can't seem to find it online anymore, but it's made by Sabrent so this one would probably be very similar.
I use an external USB soundcard with a USB hub with individual switches. When you turn on the switch, it goes to me headphones. When I turn it off, it goes back to speakers.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=zg_bs_3015427011_1
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=pd_sim_147_3?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=519JLN5GTLL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=CRQ01Z8W9J8BRX6DS09X
Thanks for help with the lingo. Indeed it is 3 mono inputs, and 4 is great. Do they make them without preamplification? I already have preamps for each audio line in, seems like overkill. I was imagining something simple like this https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8 but with several input plugs instead of 1.
I knew this sounded familiar...
After 6 years in my posession, my MSI GT70 0nc has NOT aged well at all
Keep us posted.
If you're plugging them directly into your mobo, there isn't much you can do about it. However, you can try one of these little fellas to avoid the direct input, and plug in via USB. That might clean it up for you.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
I use one of these in my car: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1509801051&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=usb+to+3.5
Edit: I also have the Nav package, so I'm not sure if that impacts whether or not it works. But for $6 worth trying out.
Does the mic have a non-permanent cable? if it does, you could use something like this usb to xlr cable.
http://www.amazon.com/HDE-Female-Cable-Instruments-Microphones/dp/B0050CEEIW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1398841494&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=USB+to+XLR
Or if its a permanent cable, maybe something like these
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1398841671&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=USB+to+mic
http://www.amazon.com/iLuv-USB-Audio-Adapter-iCB758WHT/dp/B007PFZEKY/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1398841671&amp;sr=8-9&amp;keywords=USB+to+mic
Just use this http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463405548&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=Usb+sound+card along with a regular double 3.5mm male cable...
But thanks for trying out ;)... My smartwatch came with such a cable and while I am tech literate enough to know that it would not work, I always wondered what would happen (e.g. if the device has some kind of protection against that)...
Be a big spender--get one of these.
I haven't seen too many keyboards with headphone jacks built in. You can get a cheap adapter to turn a keyboard with a USB Hub (more common) into one with a headphone jack http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
You could get a USB sound card. Very cheap.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462311183&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=usb+sound+card
This unit scored 4.5 out of 5 on Amazon. Please note that this model is discontinued and there are many refurbished units available. This looks like a refurbished unit. I would check warranty. Pass if 180 days or less. You can get a 1 year warranty on a refurbished unit if bought from the Dell Outlet. I paid $360 new from Amazon in December right as these were being discounted/discontinued. You will also need a keyboard & a mouse ($25-50), a headset with mic ($10-100+) and possibly a monitor ($100-150).
You are not going to get an unbiased opinion on a pre-built PC in a sub-reddit called buildapc. These are a great buy at ~$360 for new(er) units. These can be use for low to middle desktop gaming but are designed as an affordable set-top PC console. For the listed games, this unit will do okay to very good (not great to mind blowing fabulous) graphics.
Things to know:
You have different options.
If your Beats has a removable headphone wire.
V-Moda BoomPro add-on Mic.
If your Beats doesn't have a removable headphone wire.
Antlion Mod Mic Unidirectional
Antlion Mod Mic Omnidirectional
If you want to use the Zalman or Antlion mic, you need to purchase a splitter.
Sennheiser Splitter
USB Headphone/Mic Adapter, requires USB extension cable
For just sound only: I'd avoid getting a expensive capture card, but just use a sound card instead, which you may have already! It totally depends on your PC hardware as many PCs and some laptops have a "Mic" or "Line in" Jack, but many laptops don't. A Cheap USB Sound "card" should work.. such as this one being one of the cheaper ones at £6 : https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467891797&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb+sound+card
You'll need a few leads such as Stereo Phono to 3.5mm jack, an Wii Composite or Component "video" cable to let the Audio out. If you want get the game pad Audio, you want a Lead with two 3.5mm jack male connectors.
Getting all that would be less than £50 with Shipping costs, and Next day Delivery Premium charge.
If I didn't have my Elgato HD Capture card, and wanted the Audio, that is the way I'd done it, with the PS2 and Gamecube.
So something like this?
http://www.adafruit.com/products/1475
edit:
What about this?
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1411966291&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+audio
This took me from too much noise on my integrated input to acceptable for online communication. If it just has to be passable, it might do the trick.
Personally, I would stretch for the Dell. If the headphone jack does become an issue ChromeOS supports most USB audio devices so you could get an inexpensive USB solution like this one, or one of many other similar ones down the road.
You could also consider a refurb 2013 Pixel. They can be had somewhat cheaply but support may be lacking.
Otherwise you're probably best off with the Acer 14 even if it has a lackluster keyboard.
Well, worst cause you could always buy something like this
I had the same issue. This fixed it and made my mic sound a lot better: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474397977&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=sabrent+usb
If your headphones/mic combo is one single connector, you'll need this to split it into separate channels: https://www.amazon.com/Startech-MUYHSFmm-Headset-Splitter-Adapter-F/dp/B0058DOWH6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474398237&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=f+to+m+headset
OK so it splits for a possible hardware fix try this have you tried any other mic? Maybe a USB mic?
In my opinion, I would save the money and just go with a usb audio adapter kinda like this one instead of investing in a new motherboard. This is mostly because older Intel boards can be pretty tricky to find at a decent price.
You'll certainly need to buy something.
Here's one possible solution: First, purchase this DAC, this y-splitter, and two 3.5mm cables. Connect the y-splitter to the PS4 headset jack. Connect the DAC and headset to your PC. Use one cable to connect the green port on the y-splitter to the red port on the DAC; use the other to connect the green port on the DAC to the red port on the y-splitter.
Follow these instructions or something similar to "listen" to your mic. Select the USB audio output in step 4. This will send it to the PS4's input. Do the same thing to "listen" to your USB DAC's mic input. Select the headset in step 4. This will send the PS4 audio to your headset.
If you have any questions, feel free to comment.
You can also do your own manual setup. I have the Sennheiser Game One headset and used a $7 USB sound card as a second output and a cheap mixer to adjust volume levels. It's not wireless, but as mentioned above there's some good wireless setups that offer separate volume control.
I have a modmic 5 and everybody says I sound great when playing games. I have to use a cheapo usb audio adapter to take care of low input and buzz issues i had with my computer.https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518242759&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb+audio
Not sure what you mean by an External Sound Card, because the definition of that varies widely (external Headphone DAC? for example). If you mean a dongle like a Sabrent USB Sound Adapter ( https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8 ), then no.
You want an audio interface. They generally have a pre-amp built-in that supplies Phantom Power. Again, a Behringer UM2 is probably the cheapest one you can buy out there. The next step up is a Focusrite Solo.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=asc_df_B00IRVQ0F8/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310831391922&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2520944662922269486&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045121&hvtargid=pla-563309581845&psc=1 one of these
Power down the computer, flip the PSU switch off and unplug the PSU cable and then hold down the power button for about 10s or so. And then reconnect everything and power it on.
There may be a build up of electricity and it's interfering with the connection somehow.
If that doesn't fix it it may just be a bad port if you don't notice any other problems it'd be cheaper and easier to just grab a USB dac from newegg or amazon. Something like this.
Yeah I think if I had to get a new motherboard I probably wouldn't do it, I can only expect that the key would be invalid so my hands are a bit tied in that aspect.
I think I might buy a USB adapter off Amazon and give that a whirl. How does this look?
Oh hey I didn't know that double clicking the icon on the tray did anything! Unfortunately all it does it bring up a volume control bar and the ability to toggle between audio devices, nothing further.
Thanks for looking into this so much!
I had the same problem as you guys as when I plugged in a cd drive it fried my audio ports so I got this:
Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_flHQJpQW6h1ik
I had a similar issue trying to run neo pixels on pwm pin 18. From what I found that is used for audio out and causes issues trying to do both ast same time. Had to get an adapter for usb to 3.5mm. No issues after
Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and play No drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QrMxzbW4S3V1F
I need a DAC & Amp to use with my Philips SHP9500s on my PC.
Budget: $50 - $100
Necessary Features: USB Input, External Power(non portable)
My onboard audio sounds pretty good (Asus Z97-AR motherboard), but it is very noisy. I also have this cheapo USB adapter which sounds awful, but it's quiet. I use the audio adapter for my V-Moda Mic and I plan to keep using it because the mic is very clear with it.
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The most recommended products seem to be the Fiio E10k and the Micca Origen. I think the Micca is perfect, but it's over budget. The Fiio has all the features I need too, but reviews seem to be mixed about actual sound quality.
My biggest question is whether there is an appreciable difference between the 192kHz Micca and the 96kHz Fiio. Also, are there any other obvious contenders that I'm overlooking?
You could try one of these USB sound cards.
Try one of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aqr.Bb999V5QW
Somewhat relevant! Good cheap solution if you ever want sound back and have an open USB port.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=zg_bs_3015427011_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=78ZX18HR7GGW2Y2699T6
I don't know about a video, I did my research on google, but I'll try to explain. Here's the setup:
Switch > aux > ground loop isolator > aux > PC (line-in, the blue one on the back)
Windows machines (and I assume Linux and Mac can do it to), allow you to listen to a recording device (such as a microphone, or line-in) on your speakers/headphones so you can hear what is coming through. In this case, if we're using Discord or Switch App emulated, we need to be able to hear game audio. This link tells you how to enable it.
There are a few problems with this however:
Might I ask exactly what your setup is? This way I could tell you exactly what you need to get, and what to plug in where.
https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR2USB-3-5mm-Adapter/dp/B00I6ILPPC
This is the one I bought at first; it worked great until the wire started wearing out in a few months. Then I got this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=pd_sim_23_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00IRVQ0F8&amp;pd_rd_r=2T2QS7R59SH47NNQZA5K&amp;pd_rd_w=FdmbH&amp;pd_rd_wg=FCPlj&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=2T2QS7R59SH47NNQZA5K
I got it since it had no wire, but I can't really recommend it as it made my volume weirdly high. I have it set on 1 in Windows (where I would have it on 20 before) and it's just as loud as it would have been on 20.
EDIT: Also note if you use Asio4All drivers, you'll also have to make it the default in the driver settings too.
You need something like this splitter to convert the Surface's 4-ring jack to a regular microphone jack.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0T6PSF
I'll tell you this: you're much better off with a USB microphone.
Something like this will also give you a real mic jack: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8?adgrpid=54530774285&amp;hvadid=274737741295&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvlocphy=9012095&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvpos=1t1&amp;hvqmt=e&amp;hvrand=14103651398692699561&amp;hvtargid=kwd-1059371388&amp;keywords=usb+sound+card&amp;qid=1537924799&amp;sr=8-3&amp;tag=hydsma-20&amp;ref=mp_s_a_1_3
I posted this on buildapc, but didn't get any results. Hope it's okay for me to post this here too. It's a question that involves the use of a steam link.
I've got a pretty silly setup for couch gaming right now which is a result from my lack of proper research (no wireless support) before buying certain accessories. When I'm couch gaming on my TV, I'm hooked up through something like this:
Couch->XBox One Elite Controller (Wired)->Roccat Sova (Wired)->Steam Link (Wired)->PC
I'm looking to get my couch set up to be microphone friendly. My current plan is to get a USB microphone adapter to plug into the Sova, and then have my microphone/headset plugged into the adapter. (https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=pd_cp_23_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00IRVQ0F8&amp;pd_rd_r=MM9NND2RJ7HJBB9CBDRY&amp;pd_rd_w=LGle5&amp;pd_rd_wg=DI0MR&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=MM9NND2RJ7HJBB9CBDRY)
Would this work, or is this not enough? Do I need an external soundcard or something to have audio come through the usb in the Sova?
The other option is to hope for Steam Link to support wireless connection for the XBox One Elite Controller, and see if I can insert a microphone directly into the XBox One Elite Controller. If anyone can help out with this, I'd really appreciate it. My couch gaming setup doesn't feel very efficient, but thats also due to Steam Link not supporting the controller I have over wireless.
No worries - I can't blame you for wanting to get native sound working :)
I think this is the card I ended up using. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
Super cheap but works well for me. And it makes future hack builds easier since I don't need to get too worried about sound.
Yeah I have tried a bunch of distros on it and they all have the same issues. I ended up buying one of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_YCTj7pJsJmYWb for when I need sound. The last few comments on the GitHub issue suggested compiling a custom kernel may work, but the USB adapter I bought is getting me by. Let me know if you have any luck building a kernel.
So followup, I did try out Apple earbuds yesterday and they did not work either. Any ideas left? A friend suggested maybe trying a USB stereo adapter. Think that may work? (The solution is quickly approaching the cost of the problem now!)
I had a similar issue, it's an issue with some sound chips built into the computers.
Pick up something like this inexpensive USB adaptor and plug your headphones into that. It solved the problem for me.
If your port is damaged, you might be able to pick up a cheap usb headphone adapter like this, no need to open case:
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https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+sound+card&qid=1570265575&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sr=8-3
I use this for audio in on my MacBook Air for my PO-12. Seven bucks. Works great.
Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and Play No Drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3OlWDb09MF0WT
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
You could always get one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
They work perfectly.
I'm pretty sure you can get a crappy little USB device with a 1/8" mic input and use that. The sound isn't going to be great but it might hold you over in the meantime. Something like this or this (along with cable adapter(s)) i think would work.
Otherwise, I'd probably be spending all my time learning the blofeld and making patches for it. That synth is basically limitless with its possibilities. Try to make some patches that sound like the gear you want (e piano, etc.).
And get some VSTs! There are plenty of solid-sounding free ones - you can compose your ass off with just free software.
This was recommended on the GalliumOS Braswell thread: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
A warning about Braswells with the Realtek ALC5650 audio chip (like yours): a small number of people have reported speaker damage (literal physical damage), which seems to happen more often when not booted into ChromeOS (so either at the boot menu, at the dev mode screen, or booted into a Linux).
There's no clear explanation for this, since Linux does not currently initialize the audio chip. Only the ChromeOS bootloader does any init when you're at the dev mode screen, at the boot menu, or booted into Linux. So it's (seemingly literally) impossible that Linux does anything wrong, and anyway there should be no reason for uninitialized hardware to break itself. I think it will be marginal or defective audio chips, or maybe speakers (but Braswells with the Maxim MAX98090 chip have so far not shown any problems, so for now Realtek is the common element).
Some people are disconnecting the internal speakers, which is certainly safer, but I'd probably be inclined to leave it as is, see if it fails, and be prepared to exchange it if there's any indication of problems. With zero moral hesitation.
Are you using the 3.5mm jack on your motherboard? I use it and my friends can hear static when I talk on discord. I think it's just the 3.5mm jack in general. I was planning to buy this to fix the static problem.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480489332&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=usb+sound+card
Do you think it'd work?
From what I can tell, on my MacBook Pro, the headphone port is just that. A headphone port, with no microphone adjustment. I could only make it work with my desktop.
EDIT: What you need is a USB mic-input. Something like this should work just fine.
got this one. shipped really fast
good point, thanks for your input! Do you run an external soundcard?
*edit
I was thinking of buying something like this, since the alpha doesn't have an aux headphone or mic input. No problems here, right?
Ok, thanks.
Would something like this do?
Or do I need a different one?
yes. You could get a cheap usb soundcard to get rid of that issue. If you don't care about hifi quality you can get them pretty cheap.
I had this card for my laptop where the audio port broke and the quality is ok:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503235901&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=usb+sound+card
Longest without removing front IO: between 240mm and 250mm
Longest after removing front IO: 267mm
Vega 56 seems to be 267mm which is right at the max with no front IO, but if there's any small bit jutting out or improperly measured it may barely not fit. If you wait for non-reference cards there may be shorter ones (e.g. my ASUS DUAL 1070 is 240mm vs reference 1070 is 267mm). Otherwise, use back USB ports/get a USB hub for easier access. Use audio/mic on the rear IO or get a USB audio adapter like this Sabrent.
I'm struggling to think of much else!
Can you try the headset in your phone (without the splitter this time) and confirm that it does work properly there? Also how about trying some other microphone/headset in your PC?
An odd part from your answers is that the back ports give you nothing... Are they certainly the right ones? Can you make sure your speakers aren't set to the wrong configuration (see here)? A photo of the back of your computer would be nice to confirm. I might take a poke around the BIOS in case the ports have been accidentally disabled somehow.
If it's certainly the PC that is acting up, and the headphones are fine, then a cheap soundcard would side-step the problem. USB or PCI.
Amazon makes some pretty good USB mics for not too much and USB extenders are cheap. I think they even make USB to aux adapters. I'd say that's the cheaper more cost effective method honestly
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NZ3M9SK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IIkXCbWC1YDH0
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH13UFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IJkXCbRQX4KJ1
And if you're really married to the idea of the turtle beaches
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lKkXCbFVXBHPP
it is possible to short out the ports my best suggestion would be to pickup a USB to 3.5mm converter off amazon for like 3 bucks and use it
I have used this one many time and it has worked quit well
I had this issue -- had an external sound card much like this one. If you're looking for something temporary while looking and shopping for a DAC, I would go for this (especially with the quick shipping).
I don't think it's necessarily a drop in quality compared to your computer's soundcard too. Although if your computer has adjacent usb ports, you essentially lose a port due to the design.
I use this one: Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and play No drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Works great!
You can use USB headphone dongles on the ps4 like this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484355674&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=usb+audio&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=510hmUWxucL&amp;ref=plSrch
I use one on mine to connect it to better speakers causee my tv sounds like crap
So maybe get like a USB extension cable to reach you or a headphone extension cable :)
Thank you very much! This is the Yamaha P-45 digital piano and I'm wearing the Audio-Technica ATH-T22 headphones which came with the piano.
To record the audio, it took several components. (Bear with me, I'm gonna be as specific as possible so it might get complicated.) The P-45 has both a USB and Headphone port. To record AUDIO, you MUST use the headphone out port. (The USB is only for MIDI recordings.)
To do so, I got a "1/4 inch TRS to Dual 1/4 inch TRSF Y cable" and plugged it into the headphone port. The Y cable splits a single port into 2 connections so that I can hook one to my Mac and record audio and the other one I use to plug in my headphones (or else I won't be able to hear my playing because that headphone port is the only source of sound outward).
Now it's just a matter of attaching adapters to make a 1/4 inch cable into a 1/8 inch (the only one that'll fit into that headphone port).
I got a 10 foot, "1/4 inch TRS cable" and plugged it into one of the Y ports so that it could reach my Mac. On the end of the 1/4 inch TRS cable, I attached a "1/4 inch Female to 1/8 inch Male adapter".
Next, I attached this sound adapter (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) to my Mac, and plugged in the 1/8 inch male end into the sound adapter so that I could get audio information into my computer. Then I just used Garage Band to record the audio!
IN SUMMARY ... Piano -> Y cable -> 10 foot 1/4 inch cable -> 1/4 inch to 1/8 inch adapter -> Sound adapter -> Computer. I don't know if this is the most efficient way, but it's what I learned through trial-and-error and from hours of research over the course of a week. I am more than happy to answer any questions to make it super simple for you.
Is the Logitech headset USB only?
If so, the answer is no.
If it's a 3.5mm jack, get this external sound card for 6 bucks. You plug audio channel in for the green jack and plug in the microphone channel for pink.
You could theoretically plug in two separate headsets.
Hey guys, I'm trying to make a voice changer for a costume with a Raspberry Pi 3 and PitchBox software.
I have this USB soundcard connected with a mic. I know it works cause when I speak I can hear my voice through the speakers without any sort of modulation.
When I attempt to use PitchBox it gives me a "failed to open audio device error." I have the soundcard set as my default device and ALSA is the default driver. I've tried to change the device in ALSA but i still get the failed message and I've tried to change the settings in PitchBox itself but still nothing.
Any ideas on what I can try to fix this?
Mi è già stato consigliato l'e10k anche perché non ho un budget elevato anzi... Più che altro non mi è chiaro se vada bene da solo per cuffie appunto con impedenza nominale 250 Ohm (ho pensato alle DT 990 Pro) o se poi si sente un po' basso...
L'alternativa (un po' più costosa) sarebbe abbinare un Loxjie P20 di cui parlano tutti benissimo nell'ambiente, che però essendo solo amplificatore avrebbe bisogno di un dac, però non so orientarmi tra i dac a budget medio-basso (più che altro basso)
Terza alternativa totalmente a istinto sarebbe questo, nelle recensioni dicono che riesce a pilotare bene anche cuffie ad alta impedenza (tipo 600 Ohm) però sono troppo inesperto per capire se è una fregatura.
Considera che
I ordered this a few minutes ago, I think it will be good for on the go Cubase work now. Thanks for the help! https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-BENGOO-External-Converter-Headset/dp/B072BMG9TB/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Okay, just making sure there wasn't some technical reason that you needed a discrete card.
If you're just used to them from building PC's years ago, it's different now. The only discrete sound cards I know of are the SoundBlaster AE-7 / AE-9 and the Nu Audio from EVGA. Supposedly they're both really good, but if you have a GPU they'll probably get in the way of airflow. (Unless it's water cooled)
If you just want a better option than your on-board sound, look into some DAC/Amp combos as well.
Mayflower Arc
Topping MX3
SoundblasterX G6
and a cheap but very effective option. I used this one to drive my 6xx's for a while. Was surprised how good it was compared to the price. Would reccommend.
I bought this $10 adapter based on a recommendation on this sub:
USB Sound Card Adapter BENGOO External USB 2.0 Audio Stereo Sound Card Converter with 3.5mm Aux
All I have to do is plug an aux cord from my PO into the mic port of the adapter, then plug the adapter into my Mac's USB port. Then just record into a DAW (I use Reaper or Garageband) and you're good to go!
Here you go.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072BMG9TB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you have a wooden desk, the Lepai amp has mounting hardware which can be used to screw the amp into the underside of the desk. It can be mounted towards the desktop's edge towards you off to the side so you can access the dials. Then, most of the speaker wiring will be under the desk and will come over the back or through a grommet to the desktop only where the speakers are.
The only thing is the amp will be upside down. I have that Lepai amp mounted sideways on a wall in my office. It's not that distracting. You just turn dials toward 10 to turn up the treble or bass.
For the headphones, I would suggest a USB DAC to have the headphone always hooked up, so you don't have to plug it in. Using a USB DAC makes the headphone/mic a separate output/input source. Then, you can toggle audio outputs and inputs using the windows speaker icon, or use Voicemeeter Banana or some other mixer, whether physical or virtual. I really like voicemeeter - useful for muting idiots on Discord and having both speaker and headphone on, etc.
Here are some cheap cable management things to help manage the cables under the desk:
I don't know but I do know it's gonna sound different with each amp you're gonna have a different sound ear time the and sennheiser hd 800 Will sound different with cables as well
You're going either have too much highs too much trouble too much Too much mid range or too much low end https://www.amazon.com/Dekoni-Audio-EPZ-HD800-Sennheiser-Headphones/dp/B078HLQ4LY
https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-cushion-Velour-thicker-Headphones/dp/B078JN3VHMhttps://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Upgrade-leather-Sennheiser-Headphone/dp/B077YF7WJH The only way you're not going have issues if you get this amp that was Designed for the headphone
https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-HDV-Digital-Headphones-Amplifier/dp/B0778YSGMB
Or this Amplifier Cause you can download the amps software app and eq the headphones.
https://www.amazon.com/BlasterX-External-Headphone-Surround-Sidetone/dp/B07FY45F2S
I'm a bit new to a lot of this, and I've been doing a lot of reading while helping a friend troubleshoot his computer, as it appears like the on-board sound card in his MOBO just up and died, lots of crackling/hissing in one ear, extremely low audio, device manager can't even recognize the hardware nor can it install drivers for it.
So I've been looking for alternatives based on his needs, whether that's an internal sound card he could install in his desktop (unlikely), or an external USB one. He owns a Bose QC15 and a HyperX Cloud headset, so for his needs he needs something with both 3.5mm in and out plugs, and can function on his desktop and on his PS4 console. Originally, I thought something cheap would work in the interim, like this Bengoo External USB Sound Card. However, after much reading around and some further research, I found out that the HyperX headset actually has a higher impedance, of 60 Ohms, than I expected, and he doesn't have any sort of DAC or AMP in his setup, and he's complained a bit about low audio quality/volume for them, and I see that it would benefit him if he had some kind of solution that provided for his fix for lack of a working sound card for his desktop, but also provided a bit of a needed boost for his headset.
I happened upon this Syba Sonic SD-DAC63057 that appears to solve all the above problems: It's a functioning sound card to replace his dead one, has enough of an amp to power his headset, comes with 3.5mm in and out plugs, and fits his low budget. Am I on the right track, as far as what I'm understanding, and would this work? Or is there a more recommended solution by the community?
Edit: I realize neither of these work on a PS4, which is fine.
Sound BlasterX G6 7.1 HD Externe Gaming-DAC- und USB-Soundkarte mit Xamp-Kopfhörerverstärker für PS4, Xbox One, Nintendo Switch und PC https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07FY45F2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_VQwZCYhCBtf9d
how about this? link
Imo. https://www.amazon.com/BlasterX-External-Headphone-Surround-Sidetone/dp/B07FY45F2S/
Alternatively get any good DAC with a JDS Atom
How about the soundblaster g6? Not as good sounding as the arc, but still competent.
links?
anyway the headphones I want and probably gonna buy:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sennheiser-Momentum-Over-Ear-Wireless-Headphones-Black/dp/B00SUZVLAA/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=audiophile+headphones&amp;qid=1562080935&amp;s=electronics&amp;sr=1-12
or similar to them....
I am thinking of saving money for an external soundcard like this one:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07FY45F2S/ref=twister_B07KXLS6MV?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
but I am not sure if it's worth it... if it is better to upgrade other parts of my PC so that's why I want all of you your help...
Thanks
My headset is connected to a Soundblaster X-fi DAC (digital audio converter) amplifier. The Philips Fidelio X2 headphones aren’t quite powered sufficiently by my motherboard, so this DAC bypasses my onboard sound and essentially does the job much better. The microphone is a Vmoda boompro inline microphone, also being driven by the DAC.
Links to all products
Headphones: https://www.amazon.com/Philips-X2HR-Over-Ear-Open-Air-Headphone/dp/B01N5VHLUG
DAC: https://www.amazon.com/Creative-BlasterX-Headphone-Surround-Amplifier/dp/B07FY45F2S/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=soundblaster%2Bx-fi&amp;qid=1561940558&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=soundblaster%2Bx&amp;sr=8-6&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
Mic: https://www.amazon.com/V-MODA-BoomPro-Microphone-Gaming-Communication/dp/B00BJ17WKK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=vmoda+boompro+mic&amp;qid=1561940595&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=vmoda&amp;sr=8-1
No problem, if your PC/Laptop doesn't have the correct ports (like mine) I would suggest this as an adapter (since you will have two plugs for voice/sound)
That adapter also has the benefit of allowing a 2nd person to plug into the call, I use it for sales coaching with my mentee's.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072BMG9TB/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I'm doing something similar with one of these for discord and sound effects. (although what BangsNaughtyBits suggests is probably better)
If you're doing more than just the skype call I'd recommend 2 separate sound cards so you can record each in their own track (if that's what you want to do, IDK what your mixer supports)
TLDR: Need better audio to record from PC to high-end tape deck, and from high-end tape deck to PC. Would be nice to use as headphone amp, but not required. C-Media based external sound "card", Fulla 2, or Modi 2 - and why?
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Long version:
I was using my internal sound card to record to a high end tape deck and I could hear the electrical noise from the video card and CPU (audible buzz when CPU and GPU utilization is 50% or higher). So now I'm looking for an external DAC or sound card.
Seeing how a cheap USB "Sound Card" such as the $10 uGreen (https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY) is just an external DAC, makes me wonder would that serve it's purpose? Or is the C-Media HS-100B not all that good?
A huge step in the audio spectrum is the Fulla 2 vs the Modi 2. Lets say the C-Media is crap, so I'm looking between these two Shiit products. For my purpose, I can probably go for either, right? Both at $99, using the PC as the source (and sometimes the recording destination), either would work, right?
I was thinking Fulla 2 would fit my needs better because at the same price, it has a built-in amp for the times I want to use it as a portable external DAC/Amp, which I can't do with the Modi 2. The Modi 2 would just be a dedicated DAC with a line-level out, where the Fulla 2 can serve as a line-level out, line-level in, AND will serve as a decent headphone amp for those occasional listening sessions.
I plan on gaming on my Logitech G930, so the DAC will only be for audio recording (both line out and line in, to and from a tape deck).
The tape deck, if you're curious, is a JVC TD-V661 3-head dual capstan deck from 1993.
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EDIT: I just realized the Fulla 2 line-in is just to use it as a dedicated analog amp and NOT as a line-in for PC recording. Oh well. Still seems like a better value compared to the Modi 2. Again, would like to know if I'm missing anything (why go for the Modi 2 over the Fulla 2?)
Most laptops only have a headphone output jack, so you'll need an input jack, and you can buy external USB soundcard with an input on it.
Then you need to find out if that input jack can be set to line level or mic level. Sometimes you can switch between the two.
The mixer will be sending line level out. If you can set the laptop to line level in, then you are all good, all you need is a cable that has an XLR on one end, and a mini 3.5mm jack on the other end. You might have to use an XLR to 1/4" jack cable and then use an adapter to change the 1/4" jack down to a 3.5mm mini. (Or XLR to XLR cable with an adapter on the end to change it to 3.5mm mini)
If the laptop will only accept Mic level, then you need the same sort of setup, but you'll run it through a Direct Box which is a transformer that can switch line level signals to mic level signals.
Hopefully you can go down and take a look at everything before the day of the event. Take good notes and pictures of what is down there. Then make yourself a checklist so you don't forget anything on the day of the event.
It shows as controller audio on the PS4. I think it is 2 separate devices.
This is the soundcard: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01N905VOY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I just used a simple 4port USB 2.0 hub I already had.
The good thing is that other players with a DS4 can use their audioport of the DS4. They work simultaneous.
You can try picking up this super cheap USB sound card to plug in the speakers and or your headset:
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY/
This is not a high quality or permanent replacement, just for testing.
If after you test with the super cheap USB sound card, and you don't get static, then you might consider purchasing a replacement sound card, and here are some examples from cheap to expensive that will work in your motherboard:
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Blaster-Audigy-Performance-Headphone/dp/B00EO6X4XG/
https://www.amazon.com/Blaster-Performance-Headphone-Forming-Microphone/dp/B009ISU33E/
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-70SB174000000-BlasterX-Hi-Resolution-Gaming/dp/B073HT4GM4/
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If however, you get the cheap USB sound card, and you still have static in both your headphones and speakers, I would consider at that point the PSU.
Nope, I didn't almost used this jacks since most of my headsets were usb, but happening with two totally new different headsets... I'm suspicious about it
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www.amazon.es/UGREEN-Adaptador-Micrófono-Altavoces-Auriculares/dp/B01N905VOY?th=1
www.amazon.es/TeckNet-Microfono-Ordenador-Altavoces-Auriculares/dp/B012H1YDD4/ref=sr_1_3?__mk_es_ES=ÅMŎÕÑ&keywords=Jack+a+usb+adaptador&qid=1572979820&sr=8-3
Third adapter
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I'm between this three but don't know if any of those can make any sound quiality loss (Don't know why I can't just change the other two links)
I'm not actually sure which z390/B365 board has the best audio from all the brands. Alternatively You can just spend like $7 and get an external USB sound card like this one. Was far better than the sound card that was in my $130 motherboard. But the biggest difference is the microphone quality improvement. I actually have this one. If you feel the difference depends on the headset. I have a $90 pair of Sennheisers, which are more made for music. Most gaming headsets on the on the other hand have pretty bad audio in comparison and you might not be able to tell.
As for memory, you can still use 3200mhz, but I think it will just run at 2666mhz anyways if you get a b365 motherboard. If you care about the RGB then TEAM has some good ones too. They might be better performance wise too (maybe lower timings), but it's hard to know without knowing what memory timings yours would go to if you stuck them into a b365. That's another topic altogether. There is memory speed, and memory timings linked to it.
Get these:
https://www.amazon.com/Valley-Enterprises-FT-100-FT-817-FT-857/dp/B0041LNISK
https://www.amazon.com/Yaesu-Original-CT-39A-Packet-Interface/dp/B0042AGVRA
Add mono or stereo connectors to the CT39 cable ends, dress them up nice.
Then, get one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY
And, then rock and roll with your 2 USB cable connection to get up and running.
Are these compatible?
My work requires a USB headset connection so I would have to go with this adapter. If it does work, would it alter the sound quality at all?
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522361163&amp;sr=1-1-spons&amp;keywords=usb+audio+adapter&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/V-MODA-BoomPro-Microphone-Gaming-Communication/dp/B00BJ17WKK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522361135&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=boom+pro
https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M40x-Professional-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR54/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522361130&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=m40x
This should do the trick:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8UzRAb18XDXP8
> I honestly don't mind playing them on the LCD
Yeah, a lot of people here do seem to mind (though getting "raged and flamed to hell" isn't usually something that happens in this sub), but I'm right there with ya. I've actually got 8 different systems (both old and new) hooked up to a nice LCD computer monitor I was given for Christmas (specifically a Dell UltraSharp 2405FPW, along with the optional soundbar), and it does a wonderful job IMHO, despite being over a decade old (these things came out around 2005 or so, I think). I just wish my Sega Genesis still worked (video output died somehow, so I'm using one of those crappy FireCore things for now), and I need to get a composite cable for my SNES... :/
Anyways, this UltraSharp is a 16:10 monitor (1920x1200), so it's decent for both widescreen and standard systems; the 16:9 systems have about an inch of letterboxing on top and bottom while the 4:3 systems similarly only have about an inch of pillarboxing on the left and right. It also can pivot into a portrait view, which is interesting. Haven't used that yet, but it might be cool for certain arcade SHMUPs (my Wii is hacked, so I can run some of those in an emulator)...
It also has a ton of different inputs, though it's missing HDMI. Luckily, HDMI and DVI use the same digital video format, so I just use a straight HDMI-to-DVI cable for my PS4 (and a USB audio adapter for plugging in the soundbar, so I don't have to worry about splitting out and converting the HDMI's digital audio to analog). Unfortunately, though, this particular monitor does not have HDCP support, so the media apps (YouTube, CrunchyRoll, etc) and the BluRay playback won't work on the PS4. I may get one of these things to bypass HDCP eventually...
All that said, my setup isn't nearly as organized as yours (shown here using the monitor's "picture-beside-picture" mode, playing PSO in my Wii on the right while studying this chart in the PS4's internet browser on the left. Apologies for potato-quality camera, lol). Part of that is due to space constraints, though -- I live with my sister, and keep my game systems in my bedroom so she can watch TV in the living room while I'm gaming... :P
Without knowing whats causing it, its almost impossible to tell.
If its damaged somehow, then replacing or repairing is the only thing you can do.
Or perhaps get a simple USB -> 3.5mm audiocard.
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520280288&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=usb+to+3.5mm
Something like that.
If the problem occurs on every headphone or headset you plug in to the machine, its most likely a damaged 3.5mm jack. What the damage is, well only you can see that, since none of us can see your machine from here.
Of course, this assumes its not caused by some kind of software issue and is in fact a physical issue with the jack itself.
I don't have a real fix unfortunately but just wanted to say if it comes to it, decent enough USB sound cards like this one will sound just as good as your old onboard audio if you need it (It is under $10)
No idea how you'd get audio to a Google Cast endpoint - that protocol is still a black box as far as I know.
If all you want to do is distribute the audio from the vinyl player, then just capture it and replay it over Snapcast or Icecast or MPD or literally hundreds of other services that play an audio stream.
For capturing from the vinyl player unless you have a heavyweight system alongside, you could get a small embedded box (like an RPi) and a cheap USB soundcard or try to go digital with either an HDMI audio extractor or (much rarer) audio interface with TOSlink input like this DIGIFLEX External Sound Card USB 6 Channel 5.1 Audio one.
On the RPi side you'd pick the audio off the sound card with something like
cpiped(linked above) which will buffer the audio for you and then pipe that to snapserver or forked-daapd or icecast or whatever.(If you don't need synchronized audio then it's even simpler since an awful lot of networked TVs and amplifiers can be instructed to play an audio stream URL.)
No it wont, thats set up for a power cable.
Look at these, UGREEN USB Sound Card External Converter USB Audio Adapter with 3.5mm Aux Stereo for Headset, PC, Laptops, Desktops, PS4, Windows, Mac, and Linux White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XP5R449/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ijjdBbAJ6X2E5
Or, UGREEN USB Audio Adapter External Stereo Sound Card With 3.5mm Headphone And Microphone Jack For Windows, Mac, Linux, PC, Laptops, Desktops, PS4 (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MjjdBb1M8X5K2
You dont really need the second one but i believe those are normally cheaper
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1527695314&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb+3.5mm+adapter
No, there are a number of basic DACs like that, that will remove the electrical issues in PCs. If that's all someone is after there's no need to pay more.
I'm wondering if the link was meant to be this, though:
https://smile.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY/
Given your headphones maybe you'd want more, though. It may depend on whether your current amp is working for your headphones. The head-fi forums would be a place to read and maybe ask for something that is a match for yours.
Awesome. Thanks!
I suggest this Baby Boom Speaker. You’ll need a sound card because the jack on the pi is terrible. I use this external one and it works great.
Well this one is cheaper than most Ground Loop Isolators.
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01N905VOY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
mmm, I ordered this
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01N905VOY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
If it's Realtek see of they have an updated driver on their website. Laptop speakers are pretty bad. They also make sound adapters for laptops that might give you better quality. If you want to spend some money look into a nice DAC.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N905VOY/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520045676&amp;sr=8-6&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=laptop+sound+card&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41zp99SXYrL&amp;ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N905VOY
I'm not an audiophile or anything. It outputs to a mono amp for an arcade cabinet. The reg headphone jack had some hiss and so did converting hdmi to vga / headphone. This works great for me and was cheap.
Shamis has on possible solution. Output your PC Mic to the PS4 via 3.5mm to USB adaptor. PS recognize these. I have this one, works perfectly. Or you can use two mic, one to your PC, the other to the adaptor.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N905VOY/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Another option is the Astro MixAmp. You can output your mic (or all audio) via the stream port on the MixAmp to your computer. In OBS, setup mic/aux and point it to the astro line in. If your serious about streaming, this is probably the easiest/cheapest way of doing this.
I've played with mic splitters, but they tend to cause unwanted feedback/noise.
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Labs-70SB173000000-Sound-Blaster/dp/B06XBZ38ZJ
Without soldering probably not. You’ll have to get a usb interface if it’s broken.
Creative Labs Sound Blaster Play! 3 External USB Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and Play (No Drivers Required).
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XBZ38ZJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yKEyDbRTGGFE9
Hi, i need help with this setup.
I have a ps4 slim, and i want to connect it to my PC speakers, which only has a 3.5mm. PS4 slim only has a usb port to connect to. So i was planning to get a USB DAC to do the trick. The options i have is to get a DAC, and 3.5mm extender. Will this work? WIll there be a loss in quality, loudness or extra noise?
Also, I have 2 options which are on Sale, can someone tell the difference between the two, SBX Pro Studio vs X-Plus. Is any of the two better? I only play on speakers, not really care for things like footstep accuracy but prefer a cinematic feel.
https://www.amazon.in/Creative-BlasterX-70SB171000000-Portable-Gaming/dp/B01DLY3IW8?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_3869607031
https://www.amazon.in/Creative-Sound-Blaster-PLAY-External/dp/B06XBZ38ZJ/ref=pd_sbs_147_5/259-3016092-2192724?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B06XBZ38ZJ&pd_rd_r=383dd535-d670-472d-a42a-36a0ec98679a&pd_rd_w=Iko2l&pd_rd_wg=3CJOF&pf_rd_p=5c023088-3bf1-437a-ba7d-b879da18a58e&pf_rd_r=R8Y03ZHFDTGWD1C57BMZ&psc=1&refRID=R8Y03ZHFDTGWD1C57BMZ
This one is a good one:
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Labs-70SB173000000-Sound-Blaster/dp/B06XBZ38ZJ/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=usb+sound&amp;qid=1564161057&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-4
You could use something like this. USB DAC
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Labs-70SB173000000-Sound-Blaster/dp/B06XBZ38ZJ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+dac&amp;qid=1563384818&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
Are you talking about the front of your PC case? If the control panel can detect them as two devices, I would think the app the user mentioned below might work. I used to have razer tiamats with a built in switch which was awesome. They broke and I needed a way to switch easy and started using https://audioswit.ch/er. For a hardware solution, this usb dongle might be the cheapest, or you could go with a USB DAC
Sound Blaster Play! 3 External USB Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and Play (No Drivers Required). Upgrade to 24-bit 96khz Playback https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XBZ38ZJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Hp7YCbVZD58D1
You can of course go with a JustBoom Amp Hat to produce stereo output up to about 55w. Using this output you can connect to a factory amplifier using a car stereo wiring harness (this is how I am powering my 11 speakers in my 2004 Dodge Durango with Infinity Sound).
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Alternately you could go with a simple DAC Hat such as the Hi-Fi Berry (linked above) or the JustBoom DAC Hat to provide output to a sound processor or multi-channel amplifier. As I upgrade my speakers, I will be adding a sound processor and multiple amplifiers to drive all the speakers and some larger subwoofers.
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A third option is to use a 3.5mm to RCA connector for our sound output from the Pi or secondary DAC (USB or Hat) with 3.5mm output. The Soundblaster Play! 3 is plug and play and works great for this application. From the RCA output you can connect sound processors and/or amplifiers to power your system.
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To answer your question, your phone does the largest portion of the processing and provides the "source" for audio/video output which is transmitted via the USB cable to the Pi where Android Auto utilizes the Pi hardware to output the display and sound through your configured paths.
Hope this helps...
If you're gaming and already have a headset with a mic, you may want to look into buying a PCIe sound card or a USB DAC intended for gaming use (most arent cheap).
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Otherwise you may get some lag between you listening to your audio output from one device, and your mic input going through another device (your motherboard).
The other suggestion of a Fiio d03k won't work for you - thats strictly a cheap one way SPDIF dac, no headphone output, no volume, no input!
You should probably ask this in one of the headphone or gaming subs (/r/pcgaming/ perhaps?). You have a different scenario than most of the readers here.
hyperx cloud alpha . can i buy this https://www.amazon.in/Creative-Sound-Blaster-PLAY-External/dp/B06XBZ38ZJ/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=creative+sound+card&qid=1570116745&s=gateway&sr=8-5
Were you sending audio through the 3.5 mm headphone jack (green) from your motherboard to your soundbar?
If so, to replace that, as Lori2806 pointed out, a USB audio interface is your best option. If you only care about audio playback and not recording, I'd get something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Labs-70SB173000000-Sound-Blaster/dp/B06XBZ38ZJ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+sound+card&qid=1571673836&sr=8-3
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The quality will vary depending on the onboard DAC, the Creative Labs one at $20 seems good bang for buck. From looking at the reviews, sounds like you could end up with some hiss but you can fix that by disabling unused sound channels in the Creative Labs software.
Note, USB audio interfaces act funny with Windows 8+ when the computer goes to sleep and if you had any browsers still running that had audio playback paused. You sometimes have to go into the Sound Playback window and disable/re-enable the USB device in that list for everything to work again. Minor annoyance, but bears being mentioned.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XBZ38ZJ
I just got the SMSL SD793-II and it works well! No complaints so far. However, if you want to use a mic I would recommend this . I use that as well and mic is clear. Good vid from Zeos on the SMSL here
Hope that helps!!
Nice, you have the same setup I wanted. I already have the vive 'n' chill running and was looking for what usb c OTG worked for others for two outputs.
EDIT: Any idea if it shows up as a passthrough device or not? I kind of want to try a nicer DAC like this or this but not sure if drivers will be an issue on the latter.
I'd try something cheap like this first. and it's free returns...with a prime account.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XP5R449/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_v4.uDbC6BZ20Q
You'd also need a 3.5mm male to male aux cable.
Edit: I'm not sure this would work but it's the route I would go before buying a head unit or taking apart my dash.
If it helps I use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XP5R449/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_T6FoDbHCDW0ER with no issues for my earbuds with a mic
I take it since you have the BLUE YETI you don't have any sort of XLR to usb Mix board or adapters at all. Unless you plan to buy a lot new hardware i would say look at a PURPLE PANDA LAVALIER MIC
and Some LONG Exention cords or Get a Long USB extention and a USB Audio adapter like this
I do not know if the RIFT has any USB ports on the HMD like the VIVE Does. The idea here is that you have long enough of a cord between the Lav and the USB adapter (if used) that you can just wrap it with the Rift's Cable back to your computer via Hook and loop cable ties. Only catch is now you must remember to REMOVE the LAV off your shirt, collar, or nipple clamps when you remove the Rift of your head.
The Lav has some really good audio to it. that was recorded with both items I listed above on my VIVE. It's not the best int he world But for 20 bucks jsut for the lav. It's rather good for what you pay for.
This is assuming you are using a wired connection.
The mic will not work using your motherboard’s built in audio ports
Im using my beats Solo3 as a headset but I connect them using this adapter , it works as any other usb heatset with mic.
Those headphone use 4 pole plug for phones. PC uses the older 3 pole socket, with mic and sound separated. So you need an adapter like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Damomon-Female-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B011IKHHTW/
Or use USB type:
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Converter-Adapter-Desktops/dp/B06XP5R449/
We get this question quite often so I have looked into it before. The only USB adapter I have managed to find with a TRRS plug is this one. I have no idea if it's good or even if it works properly, but it's the only one I have found. I have not found any audio cards with a TRRS plug.
My suggestion is to try a another well reviewed splitter.
So you are looking for something like this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XP5R449/
If they're the ones with the extended (TRRS) 3.5mm jack, if your laptop doesn't have the right plug for it, you can buy a usb adaptor from amazon for sub $20 (or sub $10 if you want to go super cheap)
Makes sense. It should be defaulting to the mic you have plugged in, but some computers are just weird with that, I'd suggest buying a splitter so that you have a different cable for the microphone and the audio. And if that doesn't work work then buy a USB adapter that translates mic + audio cords to usb
MillSO 3.5mm Jack Adapter CTIA - Y Splitter Audio Cable with Separate Microphone and Headphone Connector for PC, PS4 Gaming Headset- 8inch/20CM Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071NDLCGC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YvlTBbDN7F54Y
Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and play No drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PwlTBbCBPVBQN
Never used anything like this but you could try this as well. Aux to USB. Probably cheaper just to buy the two other adapters though.
UGREEN USB Sound Card External Converter USB Audio Adapter with 3.5mm Aux Stereo for Headset, PC, Laptops, Desktops, PS4, Windows, Mac, and Linux White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XP5R449/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vylTBbWFVFPH1
Some onboard cards don't handle TRRS but that's a little surprising these days. But then again, so are physically separate audio i/o ports on a laptop. A combo cable, 2x TRS to TRRS, would make it work but you still might get noise from the onboard card. I'd recommend a nice portable dac/amp or a $15 USB audio adapter that does TRRS.
Will something like this work for that purpose?
Are you using the boom Mic that came with? Additionally you can try one of the adapters linked below. It could be that your Auxiliary port on your computer is bad or potentially your front panel is not connected to the mobo correctly. IF you have a auxiliary port in the back of your machine I would test that too.
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https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Converter-Adapter-Desktops/dp/B06XP5R449/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=aux+to+usb&qid=1558657549&s=electronics&sr=1-5
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=aux+to+usb&qid=1558657549&s=electronics&sr=1-7
I don't think there's a way to make it louder through the controller. However I think something like this might help. Maybe try to find one with a volume adjust feature on it.
Quick edit: Do NOT buy the one I linked. I just looked at the description and it said the sound output for left and right channels are reversed when used with a PS4. Just use the link as an example :)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XP5R449/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_YMlwzb2QKN2DB Is what I got and it's great
UGREEN USB External Sound Card Audio Adapter with 3.5mm Combo Aux Stereo Converter for Headset, Mac, PS4, PC, Laptop, Desktops, Windows, and Linux White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XP5R449/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_78uKDbB3CMC3R
To me, it looks like your built-in DACs may be fried. Only cheap solution that I can see is getting one of these doo-dahs (key words are "usb to 3.5mm adaptor"), which is probably going to be 100x cheaper than any repairs needed to get it working. They'd probably suggest a motherboard replacement and that could cost a pretty penny, so try that and see how you get on. If it doesn't work, simply file a return with Amazon.
Thanks
Do you think This would be the same?
Got some new Sennheiser Momentum 2 AEBTs and I'm wondering if I can split the single 3.5mm wire into separate headphone and mic 3.5mm cables so I can use it as a headset when I'm on my PC.
I'm thinking of something like this
Anyone know if this is possible?
Cheers!
Ps also just spotted this , not sure if that would also work
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Converter-Adapter-Desktops/dp/B06XP5R449
Only decided on this one for the inline mic capability.
Laptop
- Razer Blade 15 2018 Advanced running Mojave (10.14) -
Everything Works except for obviously Nvidia graphics which have been disabled and runs quieter in comparison to Windows.
- Adata SX8200 1TB M.2 Drive (Great Value)
- Keys are setup to mimic Mac keyboard layout as well with all shortcuts through Karabiner.
See Guide - https://www.tonymacx86.com/threads/guide-razer-blade-15-2018-detailed-install-guide-high-sierra-10-13-6-17g2208-17g5019.264017/
PC
High Sierra Build
6600k
GTX1080ti
Samsung 256gb 860 Pro for MacOS Drive
Samsung 256gb 950 pro for Windows OS Drive + 2TB Hdd
MSI Pro Gaming AC motherboard
Ncase M1
Peripherals are anne pro 2, g502 and samsung 34 inch ultrawide monitor.
I would not recommend this monitor for and serious photo, video editing as the colour isn't great however it makes up for it with the 100hz refresh rate which is incredibly smooth.
Samsung monitor -
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-C34H890WJN-UltraWide-Professional-Monitor/dp/B071X9DW37
Only issue is audio which I have gotten around by simply using a usb to aux adapter with built in realtek drivers.
This is the one I use and saves a whole lot of time and frustration trying to get audio to work without futzing with kexts and compatibility. Plug. and play
https://www.amazon.com.au/External-Converter-Adapter-Headset-Desktops/dp/B06XP5R449/ref=pd_sbs_147_img_1/356-0463875-4269422?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B06XP5R449&pd_rd_r=01d8812b-1273-4478-81c9-91de94ccad75&pd_rd_w=WCFpB&pd_rd_wg=0qNHM&pf_rd_p=a7229bdc-4c52-476b-87a7-8cf10344d0a6&pf_rd_r=DRXG5N15YDC6F69ZX4H1&psc=1&refRID=DRXG5N15YDC6F69ZX4H1
I hacked my pc about 2 years ago and has never failed me since I worked out all the issues. - Windows was the first to screw me over as one day I had an automatic repair loop and had to wipe the drive. Got the razer blade this year as my old MBP just died after 7 years of service.
I use to do a lot of photo and video editing but now I mainly use it for music production. Just setup my razer blade to test out at a friends studio.
There is a USB to 3.5mm jack I use with headphones with my laptops and it always clears out the static. Odd though you are hearing it with the USB cable for the Nommos. Below is the ones I use.
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Converter-Adapter-Desktops/dp/B06XP5R449/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?crid=1JNTESN5210Q&amp;keywords=usb+to+3.5mm+jack+audio+adapter&amp;qid=1555181560&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=usb+to+3&amp;sr=8-6
Looks good, thanks! (A few reviews complain about comfort, others say they’re all day comfortable.)
Looks like it uses a 3.5mm TRRS connector? Is there a USB audio device that uses that connector, vs. separate headphone/microphone connectors?
Edit: Looks like there are at least two USB/TRRS adapters. (Would have thought it’d be more common.)
UGREEN USB Sound Card External Converter USB Audio Adapter with 3.5mm Aux Stereo for Headset, PC, Laptops, Desktops, PS4, Windows, Mac, and Linux White
NRG Tech TRRS CTIA / AHJ/ 4 Pole USB Audio Adapter- Designed for Apple Earpods or other compatible VOIP/ Skype headsets
Edit 2: I suppose I could use a splitter and just about any USB audio adapter...
Will this be good enough?
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Converter-Adapter-Desktops/dp/B06XP5R449/ref=zg_bs_3015427011_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0588R0YE2P6TRRJ0CRT1
Or maybe should I take this?
https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Xonar-Sound-Cards-XONAR_U3/dp/B004ZI5E1S
I saw this as a cheap USB-C one but it might be crap
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSC/dp/B071HJ98Q6#customerReviews
I could be wrong but I don't think any audio interfaces output to USB, sorry. Even USB focused interfaces output via headphone jack. You can buy a little converter but it'll slightly increase latency and may not work as intended as it typically needs a computer to function.
In addition to the built in RTTY & PSK, you can control the KX2 with the appropriate USB "serial" cable, and interface to an external sound card on your computer for things like FT8, JS8Call, or computer-controlled RTTY, PSK, etc. For the built in digital, you can use the CW key on the rig to generate text. With an external computer, you would just use the computer's keyboard.
I use this for an external sound card with a small laptop for field portable digital, and it works great: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071HJ98Q6
You can EQ these types of headphones? Tell me what the purpose of this is and if it negatively impacts quality by possibly bypassing the motherboard:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B071HJ98Q6/
I found it recommended here for the Modmic 4 that comes in the DT 770 bundle:
https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/727615-modmic-4-vs-modmic-5-is-the-5-worth-the-price-difference/
Do I plug the headphones into the motherboard and the mic into this thing...?
As for 240hz monitors, McCree is one of the heroes you should be experiencing the biggest difference on. For me it's primarily about the smoothness of motion, including your aim. If for whatever reason 240hz doesn't do much of anything for you the pinnacle of quality will be set by the upcoming feature-rich 4k 144hz monitors and the 1440 ultrawide 200hz monitors. There you're talking around $2k for the monitor and it would be a good idea to pair it with a new gen (not yet announced but they're coming) Titan north of $1k. Otherwise I've heard some good things about IPS, which you can get at 1440 at 165hz. I also have a 1440 165hz TN monitor but prefer 240hz by a significant margin for Overwatch.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071HJ98Q6
Sound quality is pretty on par with mediocre motherboard audio, but it does the job just fine.
I ended up going with this Sabrent USB-C external stereo adapter. For $9 its not too bad.
My budget is kind of low right now since I bought the PS4 along with a few games. Do you think something like this would help a little? or maybe a usb adapter? Maybe I could find some better through black friday sales.
Edit : or maybe something like (this)[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072BMG9TB/ref=psdc_3015427011_t2_B01DLY3IW8). I know you might not be an expert. Sorry for so many questions.
Well, TBH I'm not sure if I'm even using whatever soundcard I have. I needed to get one of these for a volume boost since none of the headphone outlets on my PC changed the quality of sound when I switched between front and back of the machine.
Get one of these for $10 US.
I don’t think you can get sound when plugged into the xim. I bought myself a cheap usb sound card and plugged that into the PS4, that’s how I got my sound.
https://www.amazon.com/BENGOO-External-Converter-Microphone-Earphone/dp/B072BMG9TB/ref=asc_df_B072BMG9TB/
Edit: nevermind, I misunderstood how that one works. I would not get it. Was under the impression it could switch between devices. It's just a splitter.
Would maybe look at something like this: https://www.amazon.com/BENGOO-External-Converter-Microphone-Earphone/dp/B072BMG9TB/
Maybe try a usb sound card.
Something like this
Or maybe the usb card that comes with hyperx headsets.
Sorry for late response.
MDR-V6 are a very easy to drive pair of headphones. Something like this won't allow them to work their very best, but they'll work pretty well.
This one is 7$.
is there anything cheap? around the 10$?
what about this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072BMG9TB/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFFTFVWWDVPMEE5UUsmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA0Njg1NTExNk84WEowUkwzMUcyJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA4Nzg0MTIyWUhNQ0dHU0ZKQTJRJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsMiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
&#x200B;
im not searching for something crazy, just make it a usb connection
I'd try using a small audio mixer (something like this, for reference), so you could send multiple inputs to one output (headphones/AMP), along with the ability to tune the volumes for each individual input. You'd have to make sure your mixer model supports the features of your headphones (stereo vs surround sound, frequency range, etc.), but I imagine you could find something decent for >$100.
For connecting to the PC, I'm assuming you'd either be using a dedicated sound card with a cable from it to the mixer, or use a USB adapter cable from it to the mixer. For connecting your PS4 to the mixer, you have a few options; optical cable, GameDac, USB Audio adapter, or HDMI Audio Extractor. It's up to you.
It sounds like a bit of a janky solution, but if you're already using an external AMP and you're only looking for stereo audio, the only extra piece you'd be getting at is the mixer itself. All of the other wires/boxes involved are what it take to connect your devices to your headphones either way.
I see what you're saying about the G430, he almost sounds like he's a jet pilot with it.
The ZM1 in the youtube clip you sent me sounds fantastic, so much more clear than when I use mine. He mentions using a usb audio adapter is why his is so clear. Would something cheaper like this give me the boost I would possibly need to get rid of the static, or would I need to spend more. Would love to get away with only spending $20-$30 max if possible.
It looks like it has a USB port, so you could get one of these and plug your headphones into that.
My wife and I just did this our self a few months ago. We spend hours gaming each day and found a great combo using Sennheiser HD 598, Antlion Modmic, and a simple USB audio adapter.
We spent a while doing our research across multiple subs and obviously everyone's situation is different.
The suggestions others have made are probably cheaper than converting a headphone-sized audio cable to USB. Nevertheless, if you need some kind of USB adapter because you don't have a mic jack in your PC, try this:
http://www.amazon.com/external-Adapter-Windows-Microphone-SD-CM-UAUD/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=pd_bxgy_23_2?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1XWWX1P1AYVTJFA9JGAH
or maybe this:
http://www.walmart.com/ip/46573162?wmlspartner=wlpa&amp;adid=22222222227034230783&amp;wl0=&amp;wl1=g&amp;wl2=c&amp;wl3=55752321098&amp;wl4=&amp;wl5=pla&amp;wl6=86826090578&amp;veh=sem
EDIT: For my first suggestion, you'll need to also buy two 3.5mm cables, such as this one:
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-MU10MMS-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio/dp/B004G3ZTU8/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465155662&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=3.5+mm+cable
I had this problem before
I bought the adapter and the buzzing went away, i think its related to the impedance of your headphones or just static interfering with your headphones
I don't think you can get a Headset and a mic at that price point.
So you are good with the Logitech G230, and get This soundcard for it.
believe it or not this works great with asio4all , very low latency http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1397447357&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+audio
The simplest solution is to use a USB audio input. I Use one of these and it's very simple to use and works well.
I run the server software and multiple instances of softsqueeze player all on the same machine. The softsqueeze instances are launched by batch processes I created that binds them to specific audio devices. These are launched by remote control.
Then, I use each audio device connected to a separate amp. For my three zones I have:
I made a thread on A/V forums explaining how to setup the software.
Once the players are launched, the music is controlled with any web browser on the network and/or an android/iphone app. The software players can play music independently or by sync'ed.
Most of the basic USB audio cards are driverless.
Try this one for a higher end DAC http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463426650&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=usb+audio
Or this one for basic http://www.amazon.com/external-Adapter-Windows-Microphone-SD-CM-UAUD/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463426650&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=usb+audio
tl;dr: Can anyone recommend a good USB headphone adapter or headphone extension cord?
My desktop computer has a faulty headphone jack, so I thought to get a cheap USB adapter from Amazon and use it instead. (My audio ports on the back of my desktop work fine, but my headphones have a short and coiled cord, so wearing them with them plugged into the back is uncomfortable.) Unfortunately, the adapter I got makes my headphones produce a relatively loud hiss, which significantly detracts from the listening experience. So I'm considering either getting a new adapter or an extension cord to plug my headphones into the back. I've been looking at Amazon reviews, and while there are many with good reviews, a lot of them also have a few mentions of hissing or sound degradation, which is why I'm asking for recommendations here.
omg a topic i know something about.
Lastly If you decide to buy game one or zero, some advice from a PC320 user. Idk how much the mic tech has changed but with a fan pointed in your direction even on low, its not fun for others. buy This and life is good again. One really weird thing. I used my PC320 for my ps4 for a time and I noticed something strange. If I used a Y-adapter and plugged it into my DS4 controller the mute part didnt work even when I lift the mic. BUT if I used a USB adapter and plugged it straight into my PS4 then the mute works. Still no idea why this is.
Edit: If you use the 598+vmoda boom pro combo and your adapter doesnt look like this, where did you get it from? link please?
edit: changed all the instances i could find of me accidentally saying modmic when i meant vmoda boompro
you could buy a usb audio driver to get a "second" audio card. I bought this: http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=pd_cp_e_1 and I would recommend it. I use it for djing sometimes. It works with macs (mine is a mac)
When you talk about a preamp is it something like this ? that could be connect to a sound card usb adapter like this ?
Anyone recommend extras for this headset for optimal sound quality? Something along the lines of this? http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=pd_bxgy_pc_text_z
I'm looking for a good, not great audio headset for gaming and mic quality is rather important as well. I currently have the razer kraken pros and they have basically fallen apart less than a year in.
My current microphone is a Neewer NW-800 with a pop filter, stand, power supply, & shock mount. In total, around 100 dollars (excluding shipping and the wire/adapter)
Microphone,
Boom Arm,
Pop Filter,
Power Supply,
I got mine for around 65 because the mic was on sale, so I would wait until it goes on sale again to be a bit more affordable.
PS: If you want to connect this mic to the PS4, I recommend these two:
Wire, Adapter
Yes, your specs are good enough for an LP series. I agree with Pyroraptor (Audacity, OBS Studio/Standard OBS, Gimp, I use Lightworks, but you could use HitFilm. The webcam seems pretty nice. Just remember that the Neweer is a condenser mic, meaning it will pick up almost anything, so it would be a good idea to either remove any potential background noise in Audacity or use a noise removal program. I would focus on the mic and software first, webcam later. Hope this helps! -Alduin
I have a problem with the headphone jack built into my case. I'm thinking about getting this as a workaround. Will there be any loss in sound quality, considering that it's a cheap external sound card?
With what you have lying around? Do you have a display with a headphone jack that can take HDMI in? You're better off either fixing the laptop (iFixIt is your friend) or buying something like...
HDMI out with an analog audio out will do it, something like...
this
but it's easy enough to just get one of these...
USB Audio Devices
if you want a quick and dirty solution.
http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1409107031&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Syba+SD-CM-UAUD Try this one?
Everyone runs the Behringer DAC with these Nexus 7 setups, but to be honest, it seems like overkill, and it ain't small. Is there a reason you chose it over a small option like [this](http://www.SYBA.com/ external USB Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows, Mac, Linux Extra Audio Source with Microphone SD-CM-UAUD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sbD2xb9F64ZHN)? I can buy that the audio quality on the Behringer is likely higher. It just seems like an ungainly device when size does matter.
A generic one on Amazon should suffice for your needs, for example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_0PFStb0VSNTA9TPM. I can't really recommend one because I've never owned or used one of these.
https://www.amazon.ca/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=pd_sim_267_9?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=KS7R71WGYQQ63NDSBAY6
Have this & used it with my NW-700 and tried it on my brothers NW-800 (legit the same microphone as yours lmao) & I use it with my mod mic and it provides the right amount of Voltage without any issues.
No, those things are pretty rare for some reason, although they're pretty easy to make if you're the do-it-yourself type.
Your cheapest bet is to get a USB sound card like this one.
You don't want to just plug your headphones into any audiojack on the back of your computers motherboard. Each jack handles different audio channels (Green is for the front left/right speakers, orange is for the center, and black is used for the rear left/right speakers. If you only have a 2-speaker stereo set-up, then you only need to worry about the green port. You'de use the other ports for surround sound. But the same thing applies to headphones (unless you buy some "surround sound" headphones) then you're just going to want to plug them into the green port.
But since you have your speakers taking up that port and the front part is broken, you can just get around that with a USB soundcard/adapter.
TLDR: buy this
Yeah, your best bet is to get a decent DAC if you want to spend a bit more for your good music headphones. The cheap option is something like this which fixes 99% of audio interference issues.
I don't know about that one, I was thinking of something like this : https://www.amazon.com/Syba-external-Adapter-Windows-C-Media/dp/B001MSS6CS/ with a clear audio in
Hello! The headphone jack on my laptop recently broke and is unusable. I'm currently using Sennheiser 598 headphones.
Would something like this or this be a good workaround? Will the sound quality still be okay?
I could spend up to $30 if these won't work well though.
Thanks for the help
Wow, you literally have the exact same issue as me, word for word. I even have the same mic.
By any chance, is this your USB adapter? It's the one I use (Also due to static from on-board audio)
That's incredibly strange though, this never used to happen.
If your laptop doesn't have a mic input, you can use a usb adapter like this. I am not overly familiar with these headphones, but from looking at their website the only difference is the style, since they appear to have the same components otherwise. The Laredo is an on-ear style headphone, and the Silverado is an over-ear style headphone. Deciding between on-ear and over-ear headphones comes down to personal preference.
Edit: Upon further investigation, the Silverado appears to have slightly better drivers and a detachable cable. This chart shows the difference.
This will solve his one jack problem
http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=pd_bxgy_pc_img_z
This is the mic
http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-G230-Stereo-Gaming-Headset/dp/B00BFOEY4I/ref=sr_1_49?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1415670129&amp;sr=1-49&amp;keywords=Corsair+Vengeance
Total-48 Dollars
Ohh okay. A lot of the USB soundcards you see on Amazon are just for computers and might not work with the vr headset, but they are all only a few dollars and it would be pretty cheap to test. This one looks like the best, and some people report it working with the ps4, which is a good sign that it may work with the vr headset.
Link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MSS6CS/
A mixamp or DAC will easily convert any USB source to stereo for your headphones, but they are usually bigger than the usb soundcards.
Can you get audio from the same source as the vr, or do you need it to come from the vr headset?
They do, you could try something like this: http://www.amazon.com/external-Adapter-Windows-Microphone-SD-CM-UAUD/dp/B001MSS6CS
I have used both Volumio and Rune Audio and they both offer web based control over a headless pi audio server. You can stream internet radio, play audio from archive.org, and play music from an attached storage device with music loaded onto it (or a network music share device).
They are both based on the same open source project and are pretty similar functionally and aesthetically, they might be perfect for what you want because anybody on the network can access the web control panel and play/que music.
You will also probably want to look into a USB DAC or a add-on board like hi-fi berry because the Pis audio out is pretty underwelming in terms of sound quality. I used this USB audio card because it was plug and play and cheap but sounds good through an amplified stereo.
If you've got bluetooth and bluetooth headphones, you can get audio. Not really any point in buying an adapter if you don't have the headphones, as the latter can get very pricey.
However, a USB to 2x3.5mm audio dongle only runs about 8.50 USD
Like this one?
https://www.amazon.com/external-Adapter-Windows-Microphone-SD-CM-UAUD/dp/B001MSS6CS
Any of those microphones are good, I have the Zalman ZM-Mic1 and the quality is good enough for online chatting or even commentary. The issue is quality of the components. The clip isn't great and the wire is weak. Just from wear and tear of sitting on my desk, the shielding of the cable has broken and the wires are exposed.
/u/gibbking brought up that he was kind of quite with the Sony ECMCS3, and that's going to be the story with any mic you plug into your motherboard. You're best off using a USB soundcard, specifically this Syba sound card and you'll sound nice and clear and loud.
Podcastage is a great YouTube channel for information on this stuff. He has videos on the microphones you've mentioned, as well as various USB sound cards and how they sound with cheap microphones.
You need another soundcard for that.
Something like this should suffice
Yo uso una que me compre en amazon para una laptop que herede y nunca le funciono el conector. No se que pretensiones tenes, pero para escuchar musica y videos tranqui mientras laburo va perfecto.
Windows upgrades can often cause driver issues, I'd try doing a clean install to see if that fixes it, but it's pretty inconvenient.
Have you checked the headset on another machine to make sure it's not just a coincidence?
If you're just using it for game voip, a cheapo USB sound card like this would be fine, just keep using your mobo audio for the speakers http://www.amazon.com/external-Adapter-Windows-Microphone-SD-CM-UAUD/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458987901&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+microphone+card
http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS
This $8 one or this $60 one if you want better audio quality. I have both, and they both work great in Yosemite. As an aside, the Soundblaster Omni at $59 is an all-time low. Normally it's $75+.
Double check your "audio inputs and outputs" section in device manager for conflicts (caution symbols). If worst comes to worst, I think you can get this working by using a 3.5mm to USB adapter as this will forgo using your on-board audio jacks.
I got the same one and like it, I got this packet (same + phantom power) https://www.amazon.co.uk/Neewer-NW-700-Condenser-Microphone-Kit/dp/B0743BTD1Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536360349&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=neewer+nw700
Then i got this: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=pe_3044161_189395811_TE_SCE_dp_1
If you want i can quickly tomorrow record something with it in obs so you can hear it.
you might be better off with some super cheap audio interface, maybe even something like this?
Syba SD-CM-UAUD USB Stereo Audio Adapter, C-Media Chipset, RoHS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_ouAOub1Z4R01Y
Thinking of Sennheiser 558s.
I had an adapter like this in mind: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_eziOub06CP7ZS
I'm doing a full replacement of my audio setup, so a desk mic as well. If a external device is needed, I won't mind but I would probably have to downgrade on the microphone.
http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=pd_bxgy_pc_img_z
Not sure if this is what you mean
Just get this then you can get whatever you want.
Syba SD-CM-UAUD USB Stereo Audio Adapter, C-Media Chipset, RoHS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_eziOub06CP7ZS
It is quite the sleeper hit and I don't know why noone ever recommends it, but this will do the trick.
the raspberry pi can be used for many audio applications, if you only pair it with a usb audio interface. for example, this one was only $8 and allowed me to get much improved audio quality out of the pi.
http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS
Works with chat but not in game sound, you'd need another adapter for that since the ps4 only has optical.
I recently bought 32 ohm DT990's and really like them (so comfortable) but the motherboard on my desktop is too cheap and awful to really drive them well (even at one 32 ohm). Right now, I'm using a cheap usb adapter to drive the headphones and my mic (something like this) and I feel like that's preventing me from getting the most of my headphones.
I'm looking at getting a Fiio E10k, but would like to know if this is a worthwhile purchase, or if there are any other products I should look at for combined Dac/Amp under $100?
I don't have access to a windows machine right now, but have you poked around in the sound control panel? Also while I haven't personally used this USB audio interfaces are a thing.
http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS
I'm always quick here to suggest the Kingston HyperX Cloud Gaming headset. I've gone through quite a few headsets and I came across these a year ago and they work beautifully. They are supper sturdy, super comfortable, and are noise canceling, and of course have excellent sound quality. They run right at $70 on Amazon and that's a great deal for this headset. I paid $100 for a set of plastic turtle beaches that broke in 6 months.
Also, I honestly can't remember if they are usb, I know they have stereo and mic connectors for sure but if you give me a few minutes I'll go check my pair that's plugged in. However, you should invest in a USB adapter for audio and mic. I'll link both items below from Amazon.
Syba SD-CM-UAUD USB Stereo Audio Adapter, C-Media Chipset, RoHS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_HSYEwbN6J6C2C
HyperX Cloud Gaming Headset - Black (KHX-H3CL/WR) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJNQG98/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_3QYEwbBZX6WTM
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002GHIPYI/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_LeyFwbP6K0VA1
And I'm using this to get a mic
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_3gyFwbT3A3SA8
Thanks for the reply - before I went any deeper, I have an external USB sound card:
http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450204807&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=usb+sound+card
Which I plugged into the PC, and it didn't register that either? Is there something going on with AppleHDA maybe?
The realtek works without issue in Windows, so I know it's working.
Syba SD-CM-UAUD USB Stereo Audio Adapter, C-Media Chipset, RoHS https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7E0PAbFNMRSCN
This is all you need. I use it with my modmic 5 and headphones. It’s also the only USB adapter that doesn’t produce any buzzing with the modmic that I’ve tried.
I was looking through amazon for a USB sound card and ended up looking at these tree:
https://www.amazon.de/Sabrent-Soundkarte-External-erforderlich-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=pd_cp_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=GB845XHD5K9D6C8TYVCK
https://www.amazon.de/Sabrent-au-emac-Externe-Soundkarte-USB/dp/B00OJ5AV8I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520703999&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=syba+usb+soundkarte
https://www.amazon.de/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-USB-Audio-Adapter/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520703999&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=syba+usb+soundkarte
Do you recognise any of those and could give a recommendation/rule one out?
I also noticed the FiiO E10K Olympus 2 as an option to use headphones with, but i yet have to uderstand the DAC/amp concepts. https://www.amazon.de/FiiO-E10K-Olympus-Digital-Kopfh%C3%B6rerverst%C3%A4rker-schwarz/dp/B00LP3AMC2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520702763&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Schiit
Edit: Also, would i still use my phantom power supply with the USB sound card?
Edit2: Said FiiO E10K is a DAC/AMP combo.
This one has been successful for some people, but I can't personally attest to its quality.
Yeah, that'd work. Or you could get something like this too.
https://www.amazon.com/external-Adapter-Windows-Microphone-SD-CM-UAUD/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481055173&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=usb+audio+jack
Ah, I see. My PC most certainly has a noisy audio output. I will look into that DAC/Amp combo you recommended above. However, do you think a combination of the HD 598 and a Syba external USB would be a decent alternative to knock out that noisy audio output? Would that combination cause my audio to suffer?
Easiest way is to buy a usb adapter. That way you wouldn't have to mess with drivers. Its what I used and its just plug and play.
Edit: link to usb adapter that I use
http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452107278&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=usb+sound
Get one of these
Does the background noise sound like static noise? I had this same issue and I believe it was due to some electrical feedback (not entirely sure about the cause of it) from my motherboard when my mic was plugged in directly.
I looked around for solutions and some people recommended a sound card. But there is one cheap solution I found which has helped me. I bought this device, which is sort of USB sound adapter.
Plugging my mic into that helped get rid of the static noise. Let me know if you have any other questions, I will try to help.
This is your best bet. Ignore the USB part of your request because any headset can be made USB for very cheap DAC's.
The majority of USB headsets ship with a low quality DAC anyway. So don't bother.
Grab one of these as well if you require USB.
That's a very high quality one, but you can go cheap if budget is an issue, and then upgrade later.
since ps4 supports audio through usb, you could connect the mixamp via toslink, then put one of these into the usb ports: http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS and use that to connect your mic. That way you wouldn't be using the adapter you just posted above. If that still doesn't help, then please reconsider reformatting your question so it's easier to help.
https://www.amazon.com/Koss-KPH30ik-Headphones-Microphone-Lightweight/dp/B075FBRYM1
https://www.amazon.com/Syba-external-Adapter-Windows-C-Media/dp/B001MSS6CS/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FB9WC92/
Not sure you need the 3rd one, if the headphones come with an adapter of that kind.
I figured it out! Apparently my built in sound card is really bad. I had one of these lying around when I use it the $30 speakers I was about to return became loud as fuck! Thanks for the help anyways guys!
This will do.
The FiiO D3 looks like it's designed to convert a digital input (coax or optical) to analogue rather than act as a computer sound card.
If you're on a tight budget, you can get one of these super simple sound cards:
http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS
You need this:
https://www.amazon.com/external-Adapter-Windows-Microphone-SD-CM-UAUD/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479836527&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=syba
I use that one and it works great. Then just use the inputs on that for the sound and mic. You might need a mixer or should have one even a cheap one for mixing volumes etc... or conversely you could set up some kind of mixing software on the PC.
I was under the impression the one with the HC2 the USB sound card is not compatible with the PS4. Not for sure though. Might want to give it a try since you have it.
If your hooking the Elgato directly to the PS4 with HDMI audio make sure that the settings in OBS have use device audio checked or on in the software.
Bottom line make your life easier with a cheap mixer to control, mix and make your stream sound better.
I use a PS4 everyday with this setup and it allows ultimate control and sound through my DSS USB device also plugged into the PS4 come by and discuss it TonyLemont on Twitch.
Peace.
Gigabyte GA-H97-D3H. It's 1150 from everything I've read. I tried a completely fresh install and applying this fix before even applying the initial multibeast.
Even on a fresh install I extracted the default kext from the installer I used to build my media and also made sure there were no extra kexts in any of the relevant folders (I wanted to be super sure everything was clean). In other words, I had a fresh install but also made extra sure everything was clean by going through the typical steps to clean everything out.
Anyway, at the end of the day I decided it wasn't a battle worth fighting because my local computer shop had a USB > 3.5 adapter (this one) for under $10. For the price it seemed like it made more sense to just grab that and avoid hours of messing around with my system. It also gives me piece of mind because my system is running at the bare minimum in terms of injecting and patching kexts, so I don't have that house of cards feeling that you sometimes get when you've spent days getting certain functions to work and are afraid that everything is going to break the next time you look at your computer the wrong way.
USB Stereo Sound Adapter
Wood Box
Chef Craft Paring Knives
Eyeglass Repair Kit
Tripp Lite 1 Outlet Portable
Scissor
Scissor
But i would wait till black friday.
http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1381181772&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=usb+headset+adapter
I have used that to hook up a PC headsets to my ps3.
Could try this.
I was thinking of using this for hdmi and this for audio, wouldn't it work? I'd really prefer if I could keep it down to a single cable.
Just buy one of these. You're welcome. ;)
Hmm... I'd go with a USB interface (such as this) before I committed to a set of headphones with a combo plug. That will allow for easy upgrades (of your laptop OR headphones) in the future.
To be honest, I just use a usb sound card and then a normal PC headset.
I have two of these sound cards (one at work, one at home) they work without drivers and are recognized by the System Preferences:Sound http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/
Another option would be the Griffin iMic which has more features (line in from pro mics as well as consumer mics)
I don't think it is the styple you want, but I prefer a one-ear headset/mic for Skype. I use the basic panasonic design with a 2.5mm to split 3.5mm adapter. http://www.amazon.com/Headset-Buddy-Adapter-01-PH25-PC35-Phone/dp/B002NQV0N0/
Nah I figured out what's wrong. I need to get myself one of these for my Macbook. Apparently the Line In doesn't recognize the type of jack my headset uses.
What kind of laptop are you using? I saw your other reply about the iPhone earbuds as well. Did you plug that into the line in jack or the headphone jack?
As for the adapter, this could work, but if you're trying to go with USB this would work best.
I would probably end up getting something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1425332070&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=sound+card+usb
Not much to do as far as troubleshooting sound is concerned.
Somthing like this should help then, I used one for my PS3 back in the day with my turtle beaches.
http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1425432048&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=3.5mm+to+usb
If you can't find any USB speakers that fit your needs you could always use an adapter.
http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1425746341&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=3.5mm+to+usb
As long as it is goes from an audio jack to USB, like this then you should be able to plug and play. If it still doesn't work, go to the manufacturers website and see if there are drivers you need to download.
It was indeed :) The white noice dissappeared and it no longer sounds as if I am 10 feet away from the mic. I did some research and found one with a good "chipset" from a reputable seller that actually shipped to my location. Thank you for helping :)
The one I bought
Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1427736418&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+headphone+adapter&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41AM133RwuL&amp;ref=plSrch&amp;pi=AC_SY200_QL40
^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?
I purchased this for my mac and it has worked perfectly with no problems.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MSS6CS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
What version of Windows are you running? Why are you passing through the soundcard instead of just sharing it?
I had this issue with Windows 8 and resorted to moving to Windows 7 with
-soundhw ac97
To get it to work right. Alternatively you can get something like this and pass it through. I have one and it works great.
An all in one jack has to be 4 pin. If it is actually 3 pin, then it has no mic input. So your screwed unless you get this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001MSS6CS/
Don't forget you can do audio via USB. I had a Mac Mini whose audio outs were busted. A $10.00 USB dongle and it was as good as new.
Syba SD-CM-UAUD USB Stereo Audio Adapter, C-Media Chipset, RoHS
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MSS6CS/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
The 4.8 pound Acer V7-582PG-6479 has some decent gaming capabilities, but nowhere near as good as the Y510p. It has a 1920x1080 IPS 15.6" touchscreen, i5 4200U processor, 8GB ram, 500GB HDD, GT 750M GPU and around 5 hours of battery life. You'd be able to play LoL and TF2 on max settings, but Skyrim will probably need to be turned down to medium settings in order to play on 1920x1080 resolution.
It also has the backlit keyboard, HDMI port, 3 total USB ports (1 3.0) but just a headphone jack without a mic. You could remedy that problem by getting a USB Audio interface, but it would take up a USB port.
Please let us know if you have any questions.
That's why I used this with my ATH-M50X:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Coupled with the USB 3.5mm adapter in the previous comment
USB 3.5 mm adapter :
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001MSS6CS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1466046980&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=usb+3.5mm+adapter&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41AM133RwuL&amp;ref=plSrch
Just came in the mail. I tried it on my Macbook Pro to confirm it's native. Works like a charm! Pop it in and it shows up in the sound options. Sound quality is also decent. I don't detect any excessive noise or anything like that. Definitely worth $10 to not fuck with drivers haha.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MSS6CS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Try a USB sound card. They are all the same price, each has slightly different features. This will get rid of the echo problem for sure.
&#x200B;
HX-USCCPSS-BK - ships with Cloud II, more basic, seems to work fine for me.
HXS-HSDG3 - ships with Revolver S, has presets, you configure the speakers as 7.1 speakers.
HX-USCCAMSS-BK - standalone unit, not sold with any other product. This presents 2 devices to windows, hyperx game (speakers), hyperx chat input, hyperx chat output. No presets.
&#x200B;
Or try this:
Syba external USB Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows, Mac, Linux Extra Audio Source with 3.5mm Audio Mic Jack C-Media Chipset
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MSS6CS/
Need a bit of tech support.
I have Sennheiser HD 598s, which sound amazing and I love them. But they are WAY WAY too loud.
I have my pc volume mixer set to 1%, and then still watch videos and play games at like 10% internal volume.
As far as the rest of my setup goes, I'm using this USB sound card
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B001MSS6CS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
with no DAC or anything.
Is it possible I have a really warped idea of how loud hearing damage occurs at, and I should just crank everything up? I don't really want anything to be louder though.
I've spoken to some friends who have already really pushed me to buy a DAC but I'd love your opinions first. And if I get a DAC, would I have to return to using my on board sound card instead of the USB card?
Thanks! And I was wondering if the voice quality is poor if you plug it directly into the microphone port rather than a external USB?
Thanks for the reply utybo, my understanding is this gizmo is needed. Chromebooks do everything else that I need except d/l videos. https://www.amazon.com/external-Adapter-Windows-Microphone-SD-CM-UAUD/product-reviews/B001MSS6CS/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_show_all_btm?ie=UTF8&amp;reviewerType=avp_only_reviews&amp;sortBy=recent
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B001MSS6CS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 This was the soundcard I used. Pretty sure you recommended me this a while back.
That's what I've been reading. Thanks!
Is this good? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MSS6CS/
I saw it recommended on the few places other people were having this issue. I also don't mind spending a bit more if its something nicer.
Or would you recommend anything different (I have Amazon Prime so that is preferred)?
Just FYI -- I recently addressed this problem for less than $20 by buying the iPad camera kit and this USB sound card.
Thus, a stereo monitor as well as the normal headphone stereo out. Here's a write-up on the setup.
I know my son had trouble like this and it was picking the wrong one as the main. He had realtek audio also I am thinking it might be in sound options or device manager. He had to set the port he was using every time he used.
I got tired of setting it for him so I bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MSS6CS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
When plugged into the usb it becomes the default for headphones and mic. When unplugged it goes back to your other defaults. After that I had to buy three more for the other kids. The Daughter could not get her mic on the laptop to work, so this worked there also. The other two just like it because it was easy.
Get a USB sound adapter. About $5 on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001MSS6CS/ref=mp_s_a_2?qid=1335487148&amp;sr=8-2
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MSS6CS
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH11R3I
not that clunky i think, it's what i'm using
this is the dongle that I just bought I don't know if it's OTG or not. If not I'll pick up something else.
I use this to run my Sennheiser/modmic combo. Plug into the front usb port on the ps, hook up your two cables and go.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001MSS6CS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1502774161&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=syba+external+usb+stereo+sound+adapter&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41AM133RwuL&amp;ref=plSrch
This is what I use:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MSS6CS/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
If they work on the front and not the back, I'm 99% sure you have a bad headphone jack, and a driver install won't do anything. I would either live with the headphones plugged into the front, or buy something like this.
I use this.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MSS6CS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It works really well with my headset and microphone.
I have two, and both work fine:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MSS6CS
and
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0027EMHM6
and the OS just thinks they are sound cards.
Based on the information you've provided, I'd chalk this up to a hardware failure of some sort. Headphone jacks tend to become worn or loose with time as they are simply cheap components, manufactured by the lowest bidder and then attached to the motherboard by another lowest bidder, which is then installed into a laptop shell by perhaps a third lowest bidder.
Some solutions:
I recently bought a pair of superlux hd668b's and a usb to aux adapter for my condenser mic and headphones to plug into,when I plug my hd668b's into the adapter the audio sounds alot less bass-heavy and the treble sounds louder,is this because of the extra power being supplied to the headphones allowing the headphones to sound how they're intended to or should I not use this adapter?,the impedance on hd668b's is 56 if that helps.
oh and btw this is the adapter i'm using
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Channel-External-Sound-Audio-Adapter/dp/B0027EMHM6
Hey, I don't want to throw a wet blanket on all the fun of wiring up a DAC inside a speaker box...but why not just get a little
$7$4 usb sound stick and use the 3.5 mm audio jack to supply your speaker box...which now only needs an amplifier and 3.5 mm input jack...you could probably just hack those out of a cheap set of computer speakers from Goodwill.It really isn't that hard to attempt, depending on your laptop of course.
You would just remove a few screws, take the case off, and then hold a heat gun to it for a bit, till the solder melts (trying to keep the hot air away from everything else of course).
However, if you have never done anything of the sort before, I would just buy a usb sound card / headphones.
Here is a REALLY cheap one, with free shipping. Not the best, and the "7.1" is virtual, but it will do stereo fine. This is quite a bit better, with real surround sound 5.1 support, for pretty cheap still (if you get a usb sound card, I would get this one).
You can also get this as a cheap usb headset. Logitech is a good brand, so they could be pretty good headphones. For a bit more, you can get this one which has 5.1 surround sound, force feedback (awesome for games), ect. Also Arctic is a good brand, though with coolers stuff. However, if you have the money, I would get this. It is 7.1 surround sound, and Logitech. But ALOT of money.
I don't known what OS you use, but all of them should work with Windows. I also know that the second usb sound card works on linux, and the rest should work too, as ever random usb sound stuff I hooked up just worked (and Linux just rules with stuff like this). However, if you use OSX, that I don't know. Might be best to get one that specifically supports OSX.
i have this one. (USB stick) it works fine. only $2.50!
http://www.amazon.com/Channel-External-Sound-Audio-Adapter/dp/B0027EMHM6/ref=pd_cp_e_2
Like that
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001GUY5PY/ref=redir_mdp_mobile
+
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0027EMHM6/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1370642748&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=SL75
In that case, if you want audio in from your switch you would need to get an external sound card with line in/microphone in/headphones out. You might need a splitter (if you don't already have one) to convert your headset cable to use mic in and headphone out, and then the line in would connect to your switch.
Just to be sure, sorry I really suck at this stuff
Am I getting this correct? There isn't an audio jack on my Xbox that I can find, unless it's a different cable?
EDIT: Also, would this be the right one since I use GBP?: https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-Audio-Adapter-External-Digital/dp/B002LM0U2S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462733201&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=7.1+USB+Audio+Adapter+External+Sound+Card+with+SPDIF+Digital+Audio
That only has one stereo output (the second jack is mic in). You need 2 stereo outs in order to mix; the first for your speakers, and the second for your headphones. Something similar to this.
Or just save yourself the hassle of messing with an audio interface that may or may not work and get the Pro with the built in sound card.
You'll need something that has the 3 required 3.5 jacks for 5.1 audio. The alpha doesn't have those built in, so you'll have to get a USB adapter. Like this.
The Intensity is decent quality and will do what you want. To get digital in, you can use a cheapo USB sound card to capture from like this one (https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Adapter-External-Digital-ICUSBAUDIO7D/dp/B002LM0U2S). You just have to make sure to keep the video and audio in sync!
As for capturing Dolby Digital; I don't know of a solution. SPDIF stereo/matrix Dolby Surround is as good as it gets I believe. Now, I haven't tried this but you theoretically SHOULD be able to capture DTS LDs in full 6 channel because the audio is stored on the regular PCM tracks as PCM and output as S/PDIF data. So long as you figure out how to store it bit-perfect (meaning no sample rate conversion, etc), spitting it back out into a receiver should give you 6 channel DTS.
I used 7.1 USB Audio Adapter External Sound Card with SPDIF Digital Audio - External USB Laptop Sound Card https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LM0U2S
And the —audiodevice option to mpg123, there’s not much else to it
I think “aplay -l” will list all sound devices
Look for a USB sound card like this one
https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Adapter-External-Sound-Digital/dp/B002LM0U2S
(seriously though) is this what you mean? https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Adapter-External-Sound-Digital/dp/B002LM0U2S
are you just trying to run more speakers, or did your laptops sound card go out? cause if it's that, most of the time it's just a driver issue, it's rare that the sound card dies on a laptop because it's integrated with the mobo. I've only seen sound card failures on older HPs and Compaqs, ans usually that was related to the notorious GPU BGA failures on those, overheating the integrated sound card/modem module. the later revisions where they addressed the GPU creep I never saw sound card issues.
If you're looking for higher quality sound than your laptop currently produces, Don't even bother with these cheap external cards, get an actual DAC (Digital to Analog Converter) and run that toa high quality stereo system.
If you want to run to a nice stereo (instead of computer speakers) but don't really need the DAC, then the external card will work for that. Use the digital output (orange RCA jack) to get true 5.1, 7.1, whatever without having to use all those different colored phone jacks. That's a pretty big jump in sound quality from the headphone jacks and may satisfy your audiophilia.
Hello everyone,
I want to listen to my consoles and my PC at the same time. Should be easy, right?
Wrong. Dead wrong.
I bought a 3.5mm male to male cable so I could use my monitor's headphone out port to my motherboards line-in port. However, when I did this, I noticed some white noise (or almost like an EMI type noise). So, I bought a USB 7.1 sound card (http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Adapter-External-Digital-ICUSBAUDIO7D/dp/B002LM0U2S) that had a line-in port. It had even more white noise. So, then I bought a double-shielded 3.5mm male to male cable (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LBJ77ZA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1).
Guess what?
Still white noise.
Here's an example of the noise: https://vid.me/NZyu
I'm at my wit's end here. I really need help. I will be paying money to whoever gets this fixed for me in the cheapest way possible.
I'm trying to replace an audio mixer and add some features in the process. The mixer is an AMERICAN DJ MIXER Model Q-2422, for reference. pics
The inputs to the mixer are phones/ipod via 1/8" jack (currently via RCA adapter cable into the mixer) and also I want to connect the Digital output (SPDIF) from a TV, and bluetooth audio.
The mixer then outputs via XLR to my KRK powered subwoofer which then passes the signal via XLR to 2 KRK powered studio monitors. These are old speakers, but I can dig up the specs if that's relevant.
Anyway, I see the HiFiBerry DAC+ Pro XLR would give me the necessary XLR output, but I'm not sure how to get the digital input and 1/8" input. Can I input those via the USB2.0 ports on the pi3b+ with some adapter?
Would a USB sound card like this work? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LM0U2S/
It gets me SPDIF in and 1/8" Line In.
But I would need to pass that through the p3b+ and out the XLR HAT, and I'm not that great at linux.
Why not a USB sound card with SPDIF input, like this one -- Granted, that one doesn't list Mac OS support, but some of the reviews mention that it works on a mac. There are other devices that explicitly list Mac support.
edit: Or better yet, since you have an 3.5mm aux in (and the issue is simply toslink support): toslink to RCA stereo + RCA to 3.5mm stereo. No drivers, etc.
The motherboard above does not have optical 7.1 output. This Startech external sound card appears to be the cheapest option. It looks like an old design, but you can hide it next to the receiver
StarTech 7.1 USB Sound Card
Does anyone know a decent external DAC I can use for my PC for 50$ or less? I'm getting a lot of feedback in my headphones and I think this will solve my problem.
Edit: Is this one good? http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Adapter-External-Digital-ICUSBAUDIO7D/dp/B002LM0U2S/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1451852818&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=external+sound+card
Basically, you'll need a box to convert your S/PDIF output to analog for your Logitech to take in.
Something like this should do the trick. NOTE: I haven't used this product, and can't make any guarantee it'll solve your problem, but it claims to do the job you're looking for it to do.
Then, you'll take some dual RCA to 1/8" cables, plug them into the correct outputs on said box, and into the correct inputs on your subwoofer.
You'll also need an S/PDIF cable to go between your xbox/laptop and the above box.
Another option may be this. It'd act as an external sound card for your laptop as you suggested. It also has an S/PDIF input, which your XBox could theoretically plug into... I'm just trying to find the manual to confirm that this input could be passed to the outputs lag free...
Edit: from the manual, "The signal only passes through to the S/PDIF OUT.
The S/PDIF optical pass-through port on the Audio Adapter supports two-channel audio, but does not support 5.1 or 7.1 audio." So looks like no, the StarTech link I shared won't work.
I remember I bought a little usb audio thing because my laptop's headphone jack was really noisy. This is what I got but there is probably a better solution for a desktop
https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Beach-Advantage-Headset-Adapter/dp/B0036VO4XO
http://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Beach-Advantage-Headset-Adapter/dp/B0036VO4XO
Something like this? currently what I am using.
I believe your problem is that the monitor does not have an audio out. The headphone jack is a line in, so you can't play audio through the speakers from the monitor. You can run the audio straight from the ps4 with a usb to aux adapter like this one that I use.
I believe you could use something such as this and have the USB part just go to the Xbox itself. You will not be able to chat on the mic, at least i do not think you will be.
Interesting.
Here's a janky idea. I have an old Amigo Audio Advantage II usb sound card. Could I i have a 3.5mm line going from the headphone jack in the Amigo into the 3.5mm jack on the H6 and a 3.5mm line going from the H6's line out into the Amigo's headphone jack and then plug my headphone 4 way amp into the headphone jack of the laptop?
Edit: could you tell me how to drop the fader on the remote channel?
I also code and use headphones at work. At my last job, the audio out on my work computer was TERRIBLE. I got a $30 USB sound card, ( Turtle Beach Amigo II ) and it made a world of difference. It's nice and portable, letting me use it at work where I can't install my own hardware, and on my laptop.
For my home computer, I just got a physical sound card, which is about the same price ( Asus Xonar ). It is nice and simple, with all the features I require, and an easy to use interface.
I've never used an actual dedicated, fancy headphone amp, so I cant speak to how it would stack up against something in the $100 range, but enjoyable sound quality can be achieved for just 30 bucks if you so desire.
I like the FiiO E7 as a DAC/headphone amp. or you can pick up a cheap USB audio adapter for <30 bucks, something like this. Both should work natively in any thing XP and later.
Was worth a shot, but it seems to be the same volume when I use the "listen to this device" checkbox and toggle between 16bit and 24bit 48khz.
As for sound drivers, my Windows Device Manager indicates that the drivers I have installed are indeed for the sound card I have (ASUS Xonar DG Audio Device).
Someone recommended using an external USB sound card like this, which I might take a look at. Such an annoying problem...
I did a bit of googling and I can't guarantee anything but this might work:
http://www.amazon.com/Sewell-Direct-External-Channel-SW-29545/dp/B004Y0ERRO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459290601&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=7.1+external+sound+card&amp;psc=1
If it were a desktop I would go with internal, but it's a laptop, I think I am going to go with this one: http://www.amazon.com/Sewell-Direct-External-Channel-SW-29545/dp/B004Y0ERRO/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1415151572&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=sewell+sound+card
IN the reviews a guy said it was plug and play with ubuntu
Great! Would something like this work?
http://www.amazon.com/Sewell-Direct-External-Channel-SW-29545/dp/B004Y0ERRO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1422226890&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=external+sound+card+for+pc+7.1
Thanks a lot for the info! The speakers actually came with a reciever that has an optical hookup. So I could use a optic link with something like this and get surround sound?
https://www.amazon.com/Sewell-Direct-External-Channel-SW-29545/dp/B004Y0ERRO/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1502118273&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=usb+7.1+surround+sound+adapter
Edit laptop is win7
What kind of connections are on your headset? Several 3.5mm cables? Assuming that's the case, you could use something like this. Forego the USB connection and just have your iMac send digital audio via an optical cable straight to the card.
Short question:
I have this headset and would like to use this with it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EZT7RE4/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza Can I use it without my Headset beeing 5.1? Also can I just plug the two 3.5mm cords for speakers and headset in the front?
I recommend a usb sound card. It's an upgrade over onboard audio and it would give you the i/o options you are looking for. Here's a decent one under $100.
Creative Sound Blaster Omni Surround 5.1 USB Sound Card with High Performance Headphone Amp and Integrated Beam Forming Microphone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EZT7RE4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5emzDbB3XS0BK
I live in a dorm-like setting and I have a laptop that is connected to a PC, which is then connected to a 5.1 system. I use my laptop for gaming and movies via an external blu-ray drive.
Unfortunately my laptop does not output in 5.1.
What do you recommend so that I can get surround sound when playing games and watching movies?
I was thinking [this might work] (https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Performance-Headphone-Integrated-Microphone/dp/B00EZT7RE4/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511048507&amp;sr=8-9&amp;keywords=creative+sound+card)?
Any alternatives or anything you recommend? My system has an HDMI ARC input and an optical audio cable. Originally I used the optical input for audio but I'm going to use ARC for the TV and the optical for my PC.
EDIT: Also, how would you compare it to the [older model] (https://us.creative.com/p/sound-blaster/sound-blaster-x-fi-surround-5-1-pro#buy-menu) or [this one] (https://us.creative.com/p/sound-blaster/sound-blaster-digital-music-premium-hd)?
Sorry. I'm new to this. Here's a link to the item I'm using. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EZT7RE4?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I got a Sound Blaster OMNI External USB 5.1Ch Surround Sound Card Link. It uses only a single microUSB cable for power/connection and also has the SPDIF output you're looking for. Used in excellent condition with all original accessories in OG box for only $40 shipped. Has a great amplifier as well as dual beam-forming microphones and of course the dedicated volume knob which is surprisingly handy. Time stamp Link.
You think these would work? from my understanding it need to be connected to a pc to use the drivers that are on the pc.
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Blaster-Surround-System-SB1095/dp/B0044DEDCA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491587374&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=external+sound+card+5.1
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Performance-Headphone-Integrated-Microphone/dp/B00EZT7RE4/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491587374&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=external+sound+card+5.1
http://www.amazon.com/Creative-Performance-Headphone-Integrated-Microphone/dp/B00EZT7RE4
edit: although this is what i use now, i will just be plugging into the vive when i get it. Not gonna run an extra cable just to use my own amp/soundcard
I have one and I really like it.
Someone suggested a dac...I think they meant to say AMP because they are very hard to drive from a motherboard.
I used to use a Sound Blaster Omni. It's cheap and drives them well.
My laptop only has one possible speaker connection (Green line). I am utilizing the Logitech Z-5500 and wanted to utilize it to its fullest potential. I am thinking that an external soundcard will do the trick.
What are your thoughts on the below? Should I also optical cable to connect my speakers?
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Performance-Headphone-Integrated-Microphone/dp/B00EZT7RE4/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=
Interested in one of these? Don't remember a whole lot about audio but might be along the lines of the two things you listed.
Any opinions on https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Performance-Headphone-Integrated-Microphone/dp/B00EZT7RE4/?tag=akshatblog198-20 ?
Yeah man, I'm shopping around for a new DAC / Amp combo right now. A dude is offering me this (used) for $60, but I've never heard of the brand so I'm a bit wary... and it's from 2014
And I'll look further into the XL pads. Seem like a nice improvement for $20
Ah yeah, with a laptop you would likely just have a single stereo out.
I didn't think of USB sound cards when thinking of converters, you could always get something like this.
http://www.amazon.com/Creative-Performance-Headphone-Integrated-Microphone/dp/B00EZT7RE4/ref=pd_sim_pc_1?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1GWH4JRG8RRNJEP9C5AJ for my dt990 250ohm ?
Got my pair of SHP9500S today with a VMODA BoomPro mic.
Plugged everything in and it seems that my board's audio codec (ALC892) doesn't have enough power to drive these. Wasn't aware of that before purchasing.
Looking into either getting the FiiO E10K with a TRRS extension cable for the mic to plug into the back of my computer.
I was also looking at this Creative USB Sound Card too. Not sure which is the better option here for better quality and to future proof myself.
Any suggestions/guidance?
What are your thoughts on this?
http://www.amazon.com/Creative-Performance-Headphone-Integrated-Microphone/dp/B00EZT7RE4
I don't want to use an internal soundcard because it would sit centimeters below my gfx card and restrict airflow. I also don't care too much about "audiophile" quality. I just want something that will deliver good positional sound quality through headphones while gaming and to a lesser extent watching movies. I'm also using audio technica air ath-ad700 heaphones if that makes any difference. I've been told these headphones have some of the best soundstage.
I realized I needed better positional audio when playing Dying Light and heard a loud zombie moan right on me. I immediately panned around an saw nothing except a few zombies that were way too far to sound that close and loud.
[https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Performance-Headphone-Integrated-Microphone/dp/B00EZT7RE4/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481605774&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=creative+sound+blaster] Last night this was for around 54$ now its 70+ i'd get that refurb on amazon or somewhere else. it has a build in amp that drives up to 600ohm headphones.
Here is a link to the Sound Blaster Omni
http://www.amazon.com/Creative-Performance-Headphone-Integrated-Microphone/dp/B00EZT7RE4/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1454049614&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=sound+blaster
Budget - <$400ish
Source - PC, Phone
Isolation - don't care too much about isolation, just want some new closed cans that would offer a bit more intimacy than open ones
Preferred Type of Headphone - Full sized closed headphones
Preferred tonal balance - Warm, bit of bass. Neutral also acceptable
Past headphones - Sennheiser HD280s and Fidelio X2. HD280s were my first and only closed headphones and they were great but the highs were too sharp for my taste. I much prefer the sound of my X2s but the open design lets too much sound in a lot of the time unless im in a totally quiet room.
Preferred Music- Punk, Pop punk, electronic, rock, alternative.
What would you like to improve on from your set-up - I want a pair of high level closed headphones. I love my X2s to death but want something with a similar sound but more intimacy if that makes sense. I want to feel closer and feel like im in a different world where as the fidelios keep me in the present room but still provide great sound.
Suggest any additional equipment to power these things (if necessary). the only thing I have currently is my soundblaster omni external soundcard. It supposedly has a built in 600ohm amp. If necessary kindly suggest an amp that will meet the suggested headphones needs.
How are you listening? Headphones or speakers? I've been curious about the Creative Soundblaster Omni. Would work best with headphones or a receiver and speakers.
http://www.amazon.com/Creative-Performance-Headphone-Integrated-Microphone/dp/B00EZT7RE4
I use these to drive my transducers w/simvibe. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EZT7RE4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Something like this would work. No idea how the sound quality is though, you might be better off with extension cables depending on your onboard audio.
Would this be what I'm looking for? Or would it be something else?
EDIT: Would this work too? Or this Turtle Beach one? Or this StarTec one? Or this Behringer UCA202?
So the less than great quality will be remedied by the built in DAC in the Onkyo? The only thing I really need to do is convert my audio into a digital signal and let the built in DAC scale it up?
Would something like this work?
So, to be clear, I want to use this with a set of gaming headphones that uses a line for headphones and a line for the mic. So far I've seen these two: 1 and 2
The speakers will have an independent power source, if that helps. Sound quality is not my main concern. More so latency, as I want to use it for a pa / karaoke system.
I've also read good things about this product. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F7120TQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dkp0Ab5P88VT5
Or if you have any other good alternative solutions. It will run on a Linux OS.
This is said to have vt1630a chipset, which has supports up to 192kHz:
Embedded Audio Codec
Would something like this work?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-External-Sound-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B00F7120TQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452800158&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=dac
or
http://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-External-Sound-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B00F7120TQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452800158&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=dac
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Creative-Sound-Blaster-System-Preamp/dp/B00GMDWNJK/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452800158&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=dac****
(thanks btw)
Fair point.
I think I might have found something that will do the trick for cheaper
http://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-External-Sound-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B00F7120TQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1451414767&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=StarTech.com+usb+audio
Not sure if the sound is going to be as good as the creative one though.
I'm thinking if I were to go with anything it would be the sub $200 Creative options. For now, I purchased this cheap thing just to see if my audio quality got better, and boy oh boy did it get better! I'm actually really satisfied with just this. It powers my Sennheiser Urbanite XL just fine and the mic sounds great, and my Senn HD 598 sound even better.
Yes
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=zg_bs_3015427011_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=Y18HN098K82D7TJ9J5CH
I have the antlion 4.0 and to get rid of the staitc I bought https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484271098&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=usb+sound+adapter&amp;psc=1. Its cheap but it got rid of the static
I think I've found a better solution. Use this [thing] (https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=zg_bs_3015427011_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=GVCXB4DYJKV4MNAMZ47N). and one of these. Connect that cable from your PS4/TV to the USB Line In(first link). Then connect headphones to PC and control volume with Windows Volume Mixer.
hello i recently purchased a pair of Sennheiser HD 598's although im very happy with them i have a question about the " 7. 1 surround sound" if i use them with a usb sound https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 is it better to use them through the usb sound card or the audio jack on the front of my pc? also is there any software im missing out on for better surround sound? once again sorry for the noob question.
I don’t think I do mate! Do you know of any cheap affordable ones?
Edit; I do have this if this helps https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00IRVQ0F8?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image
Soundcard issue. I'd get a USB sound card. It will also get rid of any internal static you may be picking up.
This one is $7
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523727777&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=usb+sound+card&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51QY728wxCL&amp;ref=plSrch
I spent a couple bucks more to get one with a volume knob because I like them.
Ah, that might be it. It's possible the monitor jut has cheap analog components, and any cheap analog hardware can really downgrade the signal. To circumvent this, I suggest buying this USB to 3.5mm adapter, which does work with the PS4. The reviews say that it's a little hard to fit in the USB port because of its spacing, so you might want to buy an extender cable if you have anything else plugged into the USB ports.
Hey thanks for replying! I've got this USB sound card
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494929164&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=usb+sound+card&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51FLiQuh7EL&amp;ref=plSrch
but it somehow won't work with my Zalman Z1 Microphone, all I hear are loud interference noises..
That's why I was looking for a pure USB microphone to bypass the adapter thing.
I used this usb sound card
and this tutorial
you will just need to find the volume key bind section in the retroarch config and set that to a custom button but i just use the up and down on the joystick for player 1.
I'd actually never heard of these before. But if OP's headphone jack is busted, a USB set of headphones, or alternatively, a USB headphone jack might be OP's best bet.
You either need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0036DRYOS/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_23_3?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=K8GK8HS0DEVHQ7KSEFMX&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41z%2B2GHs4xL
Or
This: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=zg_bs_3015427011_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=XFK0AVSW3DSAWDHCF3W5
This also happens when I use external USB sound adapter. This is the adapter I'm using: Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8
>Syba USB 2.0 24-Bit 96KHz DAC
I could try this, but for the other, I already have a similar product that eliminates the static, just not the buzz :/
What I have here
I do this when I get sick of messing with sound on my hacks: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1458134006&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40
There are like 6$ USB sound DACs ("cards") that have better sound than anything you could ever get from a front panel and often from the mobo in general. This one doesn't look fancy and is sold under different names but the sound quality is astonishing considering the price.
Sound gave me endless trouble until I just bought a <$10 USB sound card which worked out of the box (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Hey, nope one of this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 SabrentUSB
Tried both of those and the problem still persists. If I connect the headphones to one of these (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) it works fine, albeit just don't have the positives of the magni/modi. Thanks for the ideas anways
On the Behringer U-Phoria i only see mono inputs,you would need stereo.
So chepest bet is using one of theese (https://www.amazon.de/gp/aw/d/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sspa_mw_detail_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) and a RCA to stereo cable + Audacity (or similar).
And watch ur levels ^^ it musn't hit reds.
Maybe you could use a USB sound card like this ?
Easiest solution for me was to pass through a PCIe USB hub. This is the one I got, I found it recommended in an old post. Also picked up one of these. Plugged an aux cable from that into the microphone jack in the onboard audio. Then just use pavucontrol to set it up as a loopback device to whatever your physical device is.
Also did M+KB with the USB hub and a hardware KVM switch. There are other means to do it, with the Software KVM Switch and Evdev passthrough but I found the hardware solution to be the easiest and fastest.
You could always get a USB sound card - there are some very expensive ones out there but I bought this cheap one from Amazon to test and can happily confirm it works a DREAM. No drivers, no kexts, no hassle. Instantly gave me sound after trying (and failing) for days with countless different workarounds to get sound working in Mojave. Can't recommend it highly enough
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
&#x200B;
Definitely some interference then. Best bet/easiest fix would be pickup a USB sound card. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492475156&amp;sr=1-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=sound+card
I have that one and it works perfect.
Is that like an amplifier or just a usb audio card?
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Edit: How about this?
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A29Y8OP2GPR7PE&psc=1
Im buying a new monitor but noticed there is no speaker built in and no audio jack, but there are some usb slots. Can I use audio usb adapter to connect to an external sound system? I wanna have audio out for my gaming consoles
I fixed it buy buying this on amazon.
(These are possible fixes, not steps of one instruction)
Good luck
I found a solution to the problem. I just bought one of these and the problem was fixed right away by plugging my microphone into that. I'm putting this comment here so anyone with the same problem knows that there's a solution.
Ok, so an update.
-Latest drivers have made no difference
-Deleting the drivers under Device Manager and reinstalling did not work
-Speakers worked for a little bit, while the headsets did not, but now speakers are full of static like the headset again
-Device Manager lists Realtek High Definition Audio AND AMD High Definition Audio Device
I'm at a bit of a loss on what to do. I would like to fix this so we can spend time together over the holidays, but I ordered a USB sound device as well, just in case we can't fix this. Any more ideas?
Edit: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=od_aui_detailpages00 is the device I purchased. One additional note as well:
-Using the "test" feature for speakers works fine-there is no static in that regard.
I got this one and it works perfectly:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
There are also cheaper ones.
I had some junk stuck in my headphone port and used a paperclip to try to clean it out, and I think I ended up shorting the headphone jack, since it now doesn't work at all (though my headphones still fit in snugly). Shortly before this happened, I bought a USB-C to USB-A adapter and a small USB sound card for a project. I've been using that as a headphone jack since then. It's far from the most elegant solution, but it works and I already had it at the time.
This setup has recently become somewhat touchy, causing my music to pause if I bump it while it's hooked up to my car's stereo. I haven't yet been bothered enough to figure out which component is the weak link, though.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Have you tried a different sound card? I had the same problem, but now it sounds worlds better after plugging it into a USB soundcard. I've read about this problem so many times, you'd think they would just ship it with one to begin with.
i got you pal
I don't know, maybe this?
Thanks for the advice. Currently using AD-900X's from Audio Technica.
I have an adapter cheaply purchased from Amazon that does USB2.0 > 3.55mm headphone and microphone. (https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Aluminum-External-Adapter-AU-EMAC/dp/B00OJ5AV8I/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510950437&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=Sabrent+Aluminum+USB+External+Stereo+Sound+Adapter+for+Windows+and+Mac)
So sound goes from computer to monitor and out through the USB hub built into monitor to the adapter then I have a 3.5mm to RCA Stereo cord going to my Receiver. The DAC/amp looks like it could do what I need it to however I do not want both playing at once if I am trying to play music loudly through the speakers and do not want to blow my headphones. Maybe I will just mod my Audio Technicas to give them a removable headphone cord, get the DAC/AMP you mentioned and run a headphone extension cord (male side into the amp/female side to a fixed position near my chair) so when I want to go headphone mode I can flip the input on the receiver to an alternative input and plug in my headphones to the female slot nearby.
Does that make sense or am I rambling?
> his was also years ago when the community was much smaller.
> As for actual model, I don't have it in front of me and I can't find it online. I bought it years ago and it probably has been discontinued. It look
What do you think about this? :)
http://www.amazon.it/Sabrent-Aluminum-External-Adapter-AU-EMAC/dp/B00OJ5AV8I?ie=UTF8&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=s9_simh_gw_p107_d0_i2
Most modern TV's have a picture off option in their settings (possibly in their quick menu too), you could try using a black screensaver and put the shield to sleep (although I'm not sure how music playing is affected). Another option would be to get a USB to phono adapter like this and then output the sound through some external speakers.
If all else fails, try buying one of these adapters for your headset, I had the same issue and tried everything but a friend suggested I get one of these adapters and it worked.
no it doesn't, BUT or this for the USB C macbooks.
>external sound adapter
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Aluminum-External-Adapter-AU-EMAC/dp/B00OJ5AV8I/ref=sr_1_3?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1538818487&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+external+sound+adapter&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011
&#x200B;
Cheap and cheerful, I cant personally review it as I the one I own is fairly more expensive, but it seems to have very good score 4.5/5 and should solve your issue.
For your mic you don't necessarily need a jack port. If your laptop has a free USB port available you could get this cheap little thing and you'll get a clean sound out of it.
As for an amp, for a laptop i would personally go with something compact like the new fiiO K3.
I assume you are connecting it to PS4 controller right? If yes try to buy this https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Aluminum-External-Adapter-AU-EMAC/dp/B00OJ5AV8I/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmrnull_3?crid=2GTRATE49FY6T&amp;keywords=sabrent+aluminum+usb+external+stereo+sound&amp;qid=1550868048&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=sabrent+al&amp;sr=8-3-fkmrnull
I heard this eliminates static
I did the same thing yesterday. Ordered one of the TonyMacx86 recommended ones for like $8 from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ5AV8I/
USB gets you around the microphone input. A good starter mixer is the Behringer Q802 USB. If eventually you need to get sound back in to the computer, you can get an adapter like this one: Sabrent Aluminum USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac.
&#x200B;
Full disclosure these are affiliate links.
Im looking for just a USB audio card since my headphone jack is busted on my laptop. Will this do the job? and none of these audio cards mention specs, should I be worried about loss of sound quality?
edit - good stuff, thanks for the reply! maybe this is why people still post suggestion threads :)
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Aluminum-External-Adapter-AU-EMAC/dp/B00OJ5AV8I/ref=zg_bs_3015427011_2
Would this work?
Yes you need to get a sound adapter, luckily they're pretty cheap and this is the one I got since it was highly recommended. It fixed my static problem and the sound is crisp! I also own a Mod Mic V4 myself so I have experience with this problem. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OJ5AV8I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It should be super loud with a dac? I was going to get one but I eventually caved and purchased a mix amp.
This is the usb sound card I have.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OJ5AV8I?psc=1&amp;ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title
Funnily enough, I had that same setup. Yes, you will need a splitter, however, the Boompro comes with a splitter IIRC so you should be fine in that department. All you have to do is plug the headphone jack into the DAC and the mic jack into your onboard sound.
HOWEVER. You might get a faint hissing/interference in your headphones if you do this, It happened to me, and I'm pretty sure it'll happen to anyone who uses the mic on their onboard sound. Apparently, the way to solve this is to get a USB to 3.5mm converter, and plug the mic into there. Here's the guy that suggested it further down this thread.
And here's the adapter he linked that fixed his problem
I have yet to try it out though. I just bought another mic and stopped using the Boompro.
I've caved and bought this USB sound card..! Maybe one day I shall revisit the internal audio issue, but for now £7.99 is a lot cheaper than the amount of time I have (& will) spend on this!
I personally use this.
Note: I'm far from the average audio file here, still a newbie, take others advice before mine.
If you need an amp is dependent on how much power your system draws. Otherwise, an easy way is to use an external usb sound card.
Optimal Shop USB 2.0 External Sound Card 6 Channel 5.1 Surround Adapter Audio S/PDIF for PC-Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q4WQ7XW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5wYxzbCW7V6S9
That one is probably poor considering how many generic copies there are of that one, but gives you an idea of what to look for.
http://www.amazon.com/Optimal-Shop-Channel-External-Surround/dp/B00Q4WQ7XW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458699439&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=sound+card
im kinda strapped for cash until the summer so would this work for right now?
Optimal Shop USB 2.0 External Sound Card 6 Channel 5.1 Surround Adapter Audio S/PDIF for PC-Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q4WQ7XW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nqUKBb31EYXPQ
Does the X1C3 have stereo line-in input? Even decade-old Thinkpads have mono microphone inputs. You could try a USB sound card with stereo input, like this one.
If your minidisc player has some form of digital audio output, you could investigate that feature, as it would minimize degradation of the sound quality.
I actually had the 558s before my AKGs! :D
But sorry to say, this is actually my first headphone amp. It was about $60 and powers my AKGs/sounds great.
The one I have is here although note that it only works through optical, there's no USB port there, so if you're stupid like me and damage your optical port, you'd have to buy something like this to fix it.
Otherwise, /r/headphones is always a good place for buying advice, and people there are definitely more well-versed than myself.
You can get a USB to 3.5mm adapter
TROND Aluminum External USB Audio Adapter Sound Card with 3.5mm Stereo Headphone and Mono Microphone Jacks, C-Media CM100B Chipset https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B014ANW4VU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mdNkDbBZGP34P
just get something like this. It'll be far away from your motherboard's components so it won't pick up noise. I use one and it works great
Sure thing! I had this one bookmarked for some other project I had planned, I don't know for sure if it's chromebook compatible but it's a very basic sound card so I imagine it would be.
Beautiful. Any specific splitter you recommend? Something like this?
https://www.amazon.ca/TROND-Headphone-Microphone-Plug-N-Play-Compatible/dp/B014ANW4VU/ref=pd_aw_fbt_23_img_3/143-1078025-3675209?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B014ANW4VU&amp;pd_rd_r=719edea4-c2fd-4b73-9554-c9f417df2b31&amp;pd_rd_w=YWqHM&amp;pd_rd_wg=tT89z&amp;pf_rd_p=318fc841-c654-436b-9e98-a4e2694ba626&amp;pf_rd_r=BPCZVC37XF7H87X7JAF5&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=BPCZVC37XF7H87X7JAF5
Also Modmic 4, or 5. Is it worth pulling the trigger on an extra almost $40?
if you are getting noise out of the mic, then surely a dongle like this
would fix that.
i don't know the quality of this, i don't think it would be perfect for headphones, but that's where i would get fulla 2 to go with it.
Ah I thought you meant like wait for black friday sale for the HD598SR to be $10 - $15 on amazon haha. That doesn't make sense, don't think they'll ever be that cheap. My bad!
Would this work for the ModMic?
https://www.amazon.ca/TROND-Headphone-Microphone-Plug-N-Play-Compatible/dp/B014ANW4VU/ref=sr_1_21?s=pc&amp;rps=1&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542489827&amp;sr=1-21&amp;refinements=p_36%3A12035760011%2Cp_85%3A5690392011
And I'll keep the hd58x in mind, though I'm still uncertain. You did give your full recommendation of the HD598 SR though. So even if hd58x is an upgrade. I'm assuming the HD598 SR is not a bad headphone, sure not on par with hd58x, but not bad like gaming headsets on the market. It seems to have some great reviews
if all else fails. Just grab one of those cheap USB sound cards off Amazon. I have this one and my mic audio has improved quite a bit since i made the purchase. The on board mic audio tends to be really weak on most motherboards.
You can get a USB Sound card that supports it. Something like THIS.
I didn't realize they even made those. Here is the question though: That wouldn't process into the same audio hardware chips that aren't"working" on the board because of the "driver" issue?
https://www.amazon.ca/TROND-Headphone-Microphone-Plug-N-Play-Compatible/dp/B014ANW4VU/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500463611&amp;sr=8-10&amp;keywords=usb+microphones
I've been using an onboard sound driver (Realtek HD Audio Manager) for the past couple of years I've had my computer. I own Sennheiser HD598c's and I feel like they are pretty good in gaming (PUBG) but I want to get the most out of them.
Would buying an external usb sound device like this: https://www.amazon.ca/TROND-Headphone-Microphone-Plug-N-Play-Compatible/dp/B014ANW4VU/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505929401&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=sound+card+usb
Be better than the onboard sound drivers or should I save up for a sound card instead?
Just grabbed this one should do the job...
https://www.amazon.ca/TROND-AC2-Microphone-Plug-N-Play-Compatible/dp/B014ANW4VU
Be here tonight 🙌
All i want is it to be a bit louder, would this be an option https://www.amazon.ca/TROND-Headphone-Microphone-Plug-N-Play-Compatible/product-reviews/B014ANW4VU/ref=dpx_acr_txt?showViewpoints=1 Or something like this
I use this :
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01LKNZ0M8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and this :
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B014ANW4VU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
To hook up both my Sennheiser headphones and ViveNchill. With some adhesive pads and zip ties everything is locked down in place.
Hey guys,
I am getting white noise / static from my laptops headphone jack and was wondering if a cheap USB audio adapter like this would help
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B014ANW4VU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3LJLNRBL035XX&amp;psc=1
A lot of case audio jacks suck. Mine died after a month.
I have a Corsair case and they will send you a new front panel if anything died on your old one, but I can't be fucked to install that. So I just bought a cheapo USB sound adapter for $10 instead.
[Problem Solved][Still need to try Fiio D3]
First of all thanks so much for those detailed yet easy to understand explanations.
Today I spent the day in search for a place where I could get a FiiO locally or something similar to it.
At first the closest thing I found to it was at Guitar Center and Sam Ash. From what I was told at one of the stores they only had Audio Digital Interfaces and not a simple Digital to Analog Audio Converter like the Fiio D3. I'm not even sure any of them there had Optical inputs which are a must for this problem.
I then decided to try a different brick and mortar store that is very popular all across the US. There I found a Sound Blaster G5 https://www.amazon.com/Creative-BlasterX-Headphone-Amplifier-SB1700/dp/B018JUPY3A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473987063&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=sound+blaster+g5. This seemed to have exactly what I was looking for as far as inputs outputs but also came along with an AMP and access its own Sound Blaster software (Different Software than the SB Zx). I haven't tried installing the software since I don't plan on keeping it so I can't tell u if its as good as the Zx as far as that goes.
I get home with the mind set that I want to power it not using my PC and for the audio signal I only want to use the optical cables that come with it.
To power the G5 not using the USB from the computer u need a plug similar to what comes with cell phones now a days (plugs into wall outlet and then connect the USB cable that came with it to that and run it to the G5. I then connected the Optical cable out from my Sound Blaster Zx to the G5. This cable is a little weird, it s standard optical on one side and on the other it looks like a 3.5mm but with an optical light.
Finally, crystal clear sound with no HUMS, CRACKCLES and POPS!!!
I can't compare to how it sounded before because previously I wouldn't turn the knobs on the back of the LSR305 very high and I feel like this has a definite effect on the sound quality (Friend thinks it has to do with the amp inside the 305 not being utilized efficiently when the knobs are at low settings).
With that being said they speakers sound great now and I feel like they will only continue to grow on me. When I tried them at the store I thought they would give me no bass at all in my room but I'm actually impressed with how much of a nice tight clean bass these put out.
I have to add that I later tested plugging the power cable on the G5 to my PC and the noise was instantly back. Same with using a 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable instead of the optical cable.
I have ordered a FiiO D3 off of Amazon to use in the place of my G5 due to the huge price difference. Even though I was able to get the G5 on sale for $100 the FiiO is only $20. I will wait until I'm able to verify the FiiO works as I intend it to before returning the G5.
Lastly I have been able to verify that once I use the optical out of my Sound Blaster I completely lost the ability to use the Sound Blaster software for my Zx. At first I couldn't open it but once I enabled the Zx and then set the SPDIF as my primary it at least let me access the software. It doesn't matter though because no matter what you do in there it doesn't get applied to what you're hearing on the SPDIF line (JBL 305s).
Makes me wonder if it somehow has to do with both Sound Blaster devices conflicting and therefor would only work if I ran the G5 software instead of the Zx. The reason this is important is because I'd like for the Sound Blaster software to work with my FiiO but at the moment it's looking like a very long shot.
If this is the case does anyone have any recommendations on the best free software I could use for EQ and just overall basic sound adjustments?
I could not find any ground loop isolators, HUM destroyers etc locally so I don't know if they would've worked but I have a feeling it probably would've. With the risk of possibly effecting sound quality I didn't want to make this my first option.
Thanks again!
EDIT 1: Found out how to preserve my Sound Blaster Software using the optical. I just had to check the box in the Sound Blaster advanced features "Play stereo mix to digital output". At this point I can even disable the SPDIF-Out in the windows sounds settings if I wanted to and still get the optical to play to the "Speakers Sound Blaster Z" playback option which allows the Sound Blaster software to work.
I use this for my PS4 but u can use for PC and mobiles or what, Creative Sound BlasterX G5 7.1 Headphone Surround HD Audio External Sound Card with Headphone Amplifier for Windows PC/Mac / PS4 / and Other Consoles https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B018JUPY3A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kmoEDbXKE6WN7
Lately i've been thinking if I could run Xbox audio through an external soundcard and my laptop via optical line-in. Point of this is having better audio quality and having xbox and pc Audio on the same headset. Party can be run on the xbox pc app. I know it works with this one, having tried it myself on a diffrent setup. So there shouldn't be a problem doing the same with this external card and a laptop? Am I right?
I've read that DACs can improve the audio of my laptop. How would it improve it compared with the built-in DAC? Also, what would be the best budget DAC? Or similar to this
Might be my soundcard (which you can use for console I think).
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-BlasterX-Headphone-Amplifier-SB1700/dp/B018JUPY3A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481392014&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=sound+blasterx+g5
I do not see any reason why not, in resolving your situation to purchase a decent USB sound card/adaptor. I'm partial to Creative Lab's stuff, but as I've haven't given a damn about high-end gaming for the past 8 years, I can't say Creative Labs is the best anymore.
Be forewarned, if you go cheap on the USB sound card, you wont ever use the quality of those $300 headphones. Yes it is mostly emulation sound from those headphones, but the maker did put effort.
Here is a Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/Creative-BlasterX-Headphone-Amplifier-SB1700/dp/B018JUPY3A/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483031059&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=USB+7.1+sound+card+creative+labs) search for "USB 7.1 sound card" This Creative Labs one is about $120. Worth spending that much for an external USB sound hub, with all the connections you'll ever need. I have a old model that is USB2.0 ages old, that I used for DJing, with the RCA phono plugs, larger "fat" headphone plug, input & output SPDIFs., old but was only $50 at the time. (Creative Labs USB Sound Blaster Audigy2 External Sound Card Sound System)
With that said, your motherboard has a "base" model sound card. Because now-a-days we like to streamline our equipment. You have a HDMI port, which can carry audio to external devices. I used my older (8yr old) gaming rig as a HTPC in the entertainment room. The motherboard had every connection possible. So the back panel of that tower is packed.
Your board is designed to lessen the options you get. If you want better sound, you'll be replacing that motherboard or the whole computer.
However back to your immediate issue, USB sound cards are pretty decent, and you'll find the name/brand/model you want. Just don't go cheap on it.
What's your budget my good man? The M50s are just "meh" with gaming. However, you don't HAVE to get a new headphone yet. This is the only headphone amp/DSP you need for PC Gaming: http://www.amazon.com/BlasterX-G5-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B018JUPY3A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1453840204&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=sound+blaster+g5
I'm rocking either a ModMic/Headset combo or the ADG1X:
Antlion Audio ModMic 4.0 LINK
Note: If you have your favorite pair of headphones that you would love to have a mic on and convert it into a Headset, get the ModMic and apply it on!
Audio Technica ATH-AD900X Open-Back LINK
Note: Audio Technica ATH-AD700X Open-Back is a favored 2nd choice by me.
Creative Sound BlasterX G5 HD Audio External Sound Card LINK
Note: If you don't have a Sound Card and need something to drive your headset.
Audio-Technica ATH-ADG1X Open Air LINK
Note: This headset is Big Head Summit1G approved Kappa (Current headset he is using)
Hey folks,
I was looking to purchase an external USB sound card for my laptop so I can enjoy my FLAC audio on my laptop.
So far i'm between this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K1OOGRI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A28128AMZ00PEQ&amp;psc=1
and this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018JUPY3A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
Can anyone vouch for these soundcards, or anything else? It will be very much appreciated!
This seems to be popular
I have the 598 and purchased this amp from Creative:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018JUPY3A/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Boosts the sound tons, but keep in mind, it only supports surround on a PC, though trust me, with the Sennheiser 598 open ears, you won't miss it. It comes with an optical cable, so you can link the amp through the PS4's optical port on back, without taking up a USB port (or you can plug it into USB). I have it hooked up with my PC and PS4 and through the software, I can turn either on/off.
Its a shame yours isn't working well because I've really fallen in love with my mod mic. Maybe worth looking around for other people with issues. I'm using this on an extension it seems to work really well. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LH1NQ9W?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LH1NQ9W?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
https://www.amazon.com/Virtual-Channel-External-Adapter-AFUNTA/dp/B01LH1NQ9W…
Hard to suggest what to do...... As it's happening both with front and rear connectors, it's unlikely to be the actual physical connections. The issue is likely to lie within the motherboard itself. possibly worth completely uninstalling the drivers, although you might have to google this to see what to do and reinstalling again. Apart from that, I'm at a loss. if it's still within warranty, I would probably be looking to return it by now. If not, or unwilling to take PC apart! perhaps a USB adapter or internal soundcard would be an option? Something like this maybe? https://www.amazon.co.uk/External-Adapter-Windows-AFUNTA-drivers/dp/B01LH1NQ9W/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1541498044&sr=8-5&keywords=pcie+soundcard
Yeah. Don't make your life harder than it should be. Every USB C hub out there implements SD card readers, Ethernet ports, audio ports with USB-to-whatever circuits. You can do that yourself.
Say, https://smile.amazon.com/Adapter-MicroSD-Charging-Chromebook-Nintendo/dp/B07MC76BBP/ almost there but doesn't have audio. Plug https://smile.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Adapter-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B01HPMHOY0/ into one of the USB 3.0 ports or https://smile.amazon.com/External-Adapter-Compatible-Windows-AFUNTA/dp/B01LH1NQ9W/ into one of the USB 2.0 ports. Done!
This is my exact setup for use with my qc35 over Bluetooth. You can plug in link 1 to the audio port and a mic to the mic port to get voice chat. I use my Bose qc25's inline mic cord as a mic. It still works as a mic even though it's not actually connected to any headphones.
For wired voice chat with qc35, I connect my Bose qc25 cable with inline mic to my qc35. I plug that in to
and plug that into link 1. Can confirm voice with the wired setup.
I know it's complicated but it's what I came up with. I had the same question you did with the same amount of answers. So I hope this helps.
I'll check later if I can just Bluetooth my voice to that splitter without inline mic. Can't test it now though.
I'm looking for something to sit on my desk that I can plug in my Headphones and mic w/a volume adjuster, similar to this.
Does anyone have any recommendations? Budget is less than $150, and fwiw I'm using 598s with a modmic.
Here, this is the mic I'm trying to use.
https://youtu.be/dVFKbVPTdG8?t=3m29s
It doesn't sound at all like what Linus is using.
This is the adapter I'm going to get.
https://www.amazon.com/Virtual-Channel-External-Adapter-AFUNTA/dp/B01LH1NQ9W/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482511278&amp;sr=1-10&amp;keywords=usb+sound+adapter
Semi Offtopic. I'm looking to build my own frankenstein gaming headset, and I need a USB Soundcard. It will be used for an Antlion ModMic 4.
Budget: As Cheap as possible without being garbage. Can't be more than 30$
Source: USB 2.0 Extender-->USB2.0 Port on desktop.
Needed Features: Headphone Out Jack, Mic In Jack, Mute toggle/button?, Volume Control? USB Connection.
Cannot be: A large box device, it must be somewhat comfortable to a thick cable. No desk sitting box.
Past: Skullcandy SLYR, love this headset, super comfy, sounds great. But they dont make it anymore so I need to frankenstien my own setup now. G430, Ok headphones, 7.1 driver is a piece of shit.
Is this an ok device? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LH1NQ9W/ref=s9u_cartx_gw_i2?ie=UTF8&amp;fpl=fresh&amp;pd_rd_i=B01LH1NQ9W&amp;pd_rd_r=CNFYJNQMW7D02XNY8AX1&amp;pd_rd_w=frJ3y&amp;pd_rd_wg=dAzRx&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=&amp;pf_rd_r=FS78CHKX809SSK566MS1&amp;pf_rd_t=36701&amp;pf_rd_p=1cf9d009-399c-49e1-901a-7b8786e59436&amp;pf_rd_i=desktop
I already own a set of headphones, Usb Extender for prototype/Trial run. I just need to get the Mic and the USB Soundcard.
yea, via auxiliary port, i dont know what your 2017 aux port looks like but if its RCA, than this would work:
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Converter-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B01M7QQQC7/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524025410&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb+to+rca
Assuming your android tv box can use regular no-driver-required usb soundcards, your cheapest solutions are something like THIS or THIS. Obviously, I can't guarantee anything, but that type of device should be the simplest.
Looking for recommendations on how to combine the audio from my PS4 and PC? I use my PS4 at my desk while using the computer and it would be nice to be able to watch netflix/chat on discord while playing on the PS4. I was thinking about some sort of simple mixer while using something like this to get the audio from my PS4. Anyone have any recommendations for something relatively cheap, and bonus points if its available on amazon Canada.
Hi guys.
I have a question regarding connecting a pair of DT 990 and a pair of speakers to my PC.
I want to be able to swap between them in Windows. But how do I connect them both?
My speakers are AudioEngine A2 which has RCA and minijack connectors.
The headphones have minijack.
How do I connect these two to my PC without having to unplug/plug in and be able to switch via Windows sound devices? Or maybe an external switch of some sort?
Thanks!
EDIT: I have found these two: USB External Sound Adapter and this Digital Optical Coaxial Toslink Signal to Analog Audio Converter Adapter which would solve my problem and allow me to connect my Speakers with either optical or USB.
Are these any good, and which one to pick?
They make very inexpensive usb sound cards. People primarily used to use them to make analog headsets operate on a different audio channel than their normal speakers. You could try buying one for like $8 and plugging your speakers through it, while leaving the onboard sound disabled, then starting up the game afterwards.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N905VOY/
I was looking at a similar item earlier: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_gHj4AbXH481E2
I wonder if I'll have any issues threading that cable through the opening where the headstrap starts or if I'll need to fork up the extra $10 for the official Vive USB extension cable. https://www.amazon.com/HTC-Vive-USB-Extension-Cable-pc/dp/B01LZ23EDX
If nothing else a cheap usb soundcard would work like this https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=usb+sound+card&qid=1566844606&s=gateway&sr=8-5
I can’t attest to the quality of this thing but they are usually usb.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1.zwDbFQ7Z1FS
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5cftDbNDBSW7Q
Aux cable from this to PC line in. Enable 'listen to this device' plug headset into PC.
This complicates the mic situation.
Personally, I would use this device with an external mixer and a multi channel audio recorder instead. The downside is you will need an analog headset.
Yes, I RMA’d my board and replaced it with another Gaming 7 and same exact issue. I’m not entirely sure we have the same issue though. Mine is totally microphone related. My headphones work fine (ie no popping/cracking). But just randomly, my microphone makes crazy insane alien noises. I cannot hear the noises, but everyone else can.
Yes, the headsets I’m wearing are 3.5mm. My headphones are Philips - SHP9500, and a V-MODA Boompro gaming mic. But I also had the same issues just using my Apple headphones. I have not tried a usb headset yet, but I did order this, which arrived today, so I’ll give you an update if I play later.
To add an update to my post, I don’t think the issue only happens with PUBG anymore.
Thank you, that was my first option, to get one of those usb sound cards. Something like this looks decent and is cheap.
I guess that usb is doing nothing with sound. IMO, you got three choices.
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY/
So this UGREEN soundcard won't reduce quality compared to my Asus z270e motherboard?
The jack to USB adapter i bought is supposed to work as an external sound card according to the amazon page (i don't know much about that kind of hardware) : https://www.amazon.fr/UGREEN-Adaptateur-Raspberry-Enceinte-Microphone/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1541440010&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=jack+usb
Should this work if it was the problem?
Here's a fairly cheap one. Not a recommendation, but this is what you're looking for: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=sr_1_4
I'm asking about the software because not every program can record from multiple sources at once. You'll need something like Audacity
Try something like this:
https://www.amazon.ca/UGREEN-Universal-3-Position-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=usb+3.5mm+headphone+microphone&amp;qid=1550187538&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;psc=1
You can plug it into the PS4 then use a 3.5mm male to male cable to connect from the dongle to your input on your PC. This will send both game and party chat to the PC.
Then to complicate the setup (LOL) download Voicemeeter Banana. You will be able to combine your PC sound sources to a virtual output that OBS can listen in on. As well VMB can output your Microphone to your Aux out which you can once again fire a 3.5mm cable from PC to the PS4 dongle and double your PC mic on both your PC and PS4!
Might be a ground loop issue which creates static noise in your headphones
https://www.amazon.co.uk/UGREEN-Headphone-Microphone-Raspberry-Ultrabook/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=sr_1_8?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500394486&amp;sr=1-8&amp;keywords=usb+sound+card
A USB sound card might help to isolate the headphones from interference which might fix the problem
Ah, my bad, I thought it did.
Hmmm, maybe you could try something like this instead.
There's something wrong with your front panel audio, then. Maybe try getting one of these? https://smile.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484449577&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb+to+audio
That is an option. I was going to do that but I saw reviews comparing direct line-in and conversion differences, where the conversion sounded a bit lower in volume. At the time of purchase, my issue was that the Vive Mic is a bit quiet. If you are going this route, I reccomend you get the Sabrent. I might test this out myself and formulate another review in the future. Thanks for your input!
Dear Pi-people,
I want to make wall mounted phones and hang them throughout the city. You can leave voicemails or talk 1-0-1 if someone is on the other line. It will be a closed network of about 10 units.
Your advice on mic/telephone: i think the shoulder mics are really cool for this project. But i have no clue how to connect it to the pi. Will an usb soundcard be ok? I don’t know if these 2 pin connectors on the shoulder mics fit the standard usb cards.
Furthermore I don’t know if the PTT (push to talk) will still function or how to make that interact with the pi; recognising when mic is on or off (maybe sound levels?).
Second option would be to attach a “retro” phone. Anyone have any experience/ suggestions? Regarding software as well (Is Asterisk a solution or Mumble + voicerecord for voicemail?)
https://www.amazon.com/BTECH-QHM22-Platinum-Rainproof-Shoulder/dp/B00Z4X3MM6/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518681063&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=shoulder+mic
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=zg_bs_3015427011_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=TEF3DD19MRMX3V5B2PSN
Thanks in advance!
I actually haven't gotten around to trying one to be honest.
I'm away for work at the moment, but I'll order one of these and try it when I get home on Friday. That should work right?
I'm using this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524739930&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=sabrent&amp;dpID=51QY728wxCL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
Makes no difference on my machine whether it's plugged in or not
Tried front panel and direct to motherboard USB connections and using front panel and direct to MB 3.5mm connections.
Hmmm ... it sounds (geddit?) like the socket on your mobo is twisted inside and will only connect to left or right but not both.
If both sets of headphones work properly in another device (phone etc) then it must be the mobo socket.
If so, you need to replace the sound card on your mobo. You can get a USB sound card to replace the one on your mobo for a few $$, or buy a PCI card for better sound but more $$.
if you read the entire thread, I tested the USB adapter with both my older Game Zero's (from i believe 2014) and it works fine, it's only the newer model with the removable cable that doesn't work. All other settings are identical. The microphone literally has to be in your mouth + shouting to hear anything.
I have updated the drivers, still the same situation. It has to do with the new model of the headset, I heard back from Sennheiser and apparently the new model is 50Ohmz impedance instead of the previous 150 Ohmz that I have in my headset. They swear it doesn't affect the microphone, and only the Cans but it seems like there's not enough juice being pulled through when going through usb for the signal to possibly make the conversion.
the adapter is this; https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
Again to be clear. older model GAME ZERO's work with this adapter.
New model does NOT.
Sure! The G5 is just in the same price range as the FiiO, and is also a DAC/AMP like the FiiO, but there are definitely some other options. Also, Something like this might work, although it's not a DAC, so it will still use your onboard sound system, but for that price it might be worth a shot.
This is the guy with the similar/same issue: http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows8_1-hardware/microphone-not-working-with-new-hardware/e93fe308-cba8-4c70-9447-f838280f8ae3?auth=1
This is the USB sound adapter (it works):
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
My ModMic had a lot of static background noise, which might be what you're having, this was able to completely fix my problem.
Those are some really shitty items. I thought there'd be a gem in there, but it's all junk.
The Raspberry Pi Zero is $5 (if you can find stock) and works as a great emulation system.
A USB sound device like this Sabrent one for $6 works great so solve a variety of audio issues like low mic volume or static/broken audio ports.
So many people in online games don't have mics. You can get one on eBay for $1. Please buy one if you play online games. www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=clip+on+microphone
Something like this?
You can get an usb audio dongle for about $6 on amazon. This way you will have fresh ports. And yes it is possible to replace the ports on the case if you want to get into soldiering and taking apart the components. Or.....you could get audo ports that connect directly to the motherboard.
Yeah it honeslty makes no sense to me but maybe I found the problem?
So after that issue I turned everything back to normal and I don’t seem to have the issue anymore. By back to normal I mean, I only use the headphones when I’m streaming (for sound separation) and to connect it i use a cheap USB soundcard this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0ootDb8T6M4A6
I noticed that when this problem starered I would hear a “pop” while everything disconnected for a second, so maybe it could be this thing shorting out and affecting all my other devices for a second? Think knight try to buy another one to see how it works.
I'm pretty sure iMacs do not have a 3.5mm input, just the output.
I think you could get a product like this and it will let you accomplish what you're trying to get.
Personally I like overdoing things and I was thinking doing something similar but just getting a full audio mixer to let me wrap my 3DS and PC into the same headphone jack. Honestly, after seeing the product I linked earlier, I kind of just want to get that, myself.
I also just did this 😂. Pi ZeroW running Volumio.
Someone linked a cheap USB dac from Amazon in this sub a few days ago and Volumio recognized it right away with no special tweaks. Just choose “USB Device” for playback.
$7 on Amazon. Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and play No drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
What are you using the microphone for? the internal stuff on that mic cannot be worth $20, if it comes with $20 worth of housing, cable and a shockmount..... and you’ll still need a boom stand or full mic stand to support if close enough to your source to use it. if you’re just using your voice for speaking, a livelier mic like this (a good one) will solve all your needs and NOT require an extra stand, you can wrap it up in your laptop bag or pocket :
Audio-Technica ATR-3350IS Omnidirectional Condenser Lavalier Mic with Smartphone Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HZA6EJO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_65LgAb3DWXM8T
also, for using headphones at the same time, a simple USB- splitter solution like this will allow you to listen and record (low-voltage mics) at the same time:
Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and play No drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GbMgAbZD9MKM0
This brings you in under $30 with a LOT of recording potential.
to go further, you’ll need a USB powered microphone (like a blue snowball or yeti, but you’ll also want a stand for those) or a full on USB audio interface (anywhere from $100-800) and cables, a stand, a standard microphone, and time to learn how it all works together.
I definitely will! You do the same. The way I did this one was I just ran the tracks playing into a small mixer I have, then a really simple USB interface i got off of amazon that looks like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511477524&amp;sr=8-9&amp;keywords=usb+audio+interface
this track is really simple so it didn't take much, but if you ran like 6 different channels into some simple interface like that it might muddy it.
I record most of my tracks into either logic or I use the recording feature on my op-1.
I'd really like to get more into abelton, becuase I think it would really help with workflow, but I have such a mental block on learning it. I'm used to the garageband/logic interface setup.
At this point, below is what I would suggest:
HiFiBerry or PhatDac are a great high quality audio solution, if your soldering skills are up to the task...
https://www.hifiberry.com
https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/phat-dac
If you just need “decent” audio to TV, a cheap under $8USA Sabrent USB may suffice...
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510057666&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=usb+audio+adapter&amp;dpID=51QY728wxCL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
There are also external USB Dacs, etc.
Hopefully this points you in the right direction.
Enjoy your Pi journey!
I dont know much about that problem, but I've heard literally every modmic owner and reviewer say that if you buy one, you should get a usb audio adaptor
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510458057&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=usb+audio+adapter
Thats the one I was reccomended and one I've seen many buy. For some reason, it cleared up my audio problems I was having with my modmic. Before the audio quality was questionable, but after getting an adapter it worked like a charm. Also as well as make sure it isn't muted lol
By the dongles are you talking about something like this or more like what creates the virtual surround on the Cloud II's? Or are they both kind of the same principle?
I found the right thing.
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463374868&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+sound+cards
Thanks for leading me in the right direction though, I found this through one of the questions on a bluetooth item on amazon, they mentioned soundcard replacement so I looked it up and found this.
You shouldn't have to, but maybe pick up one of these for $6:
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462795226&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Usb+audio
Is it USB or headphone jack wired?
edit: My idea is to try a USB adapter like this: http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463318434&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=headphone+jack+to+usb
Could just be that the headphone jack itself is having an issue.
USB headphone/mic adapter $5.
If one is for mic and one is for audio [get this] (http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462894146&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=Usb+to+Audio)
A DAC is the audio hardware the motherboard has to output audio. You can read more on wiki.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?keywords=usb+dac&amp;qid=1564739575&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-13#nav-search-keywords
This is a passable DAC which you can use to test the audio. A little expensive option may be a Fiio K1, but since your motherboard's internal audio is pretty good, you can skip it.
If a spare USB port is available, an adaptor like this should get around the dodgy audio port when necessary. I used one when the audio port on my Asus Windows laptop became sporadically unreliable.
If you need extra audio jacks there's always something like this
Could be a dodgy or insufficient mic input on your motherboard. Buy a cheap little external soundcard like this one and see if it fixes it.
The video is private.
This could either be coil whine while gaming (which is normal) it could also be a sound card issue.
What sort of sound card do you have? Something like this, which bypasses the sound card could possibly fix it as well. (Note this is just some cheap brand on amazon)
Here ya go bro: http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1409781139&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+sound+card
you would need a new logic board, the main part of a portable. I would get an external USB sound card for cheap and call it a day.
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=zg_bs_3015427011_1
One of the best things about the monitor outside of its speakers and refresh rate is that there is 2 HDMI ports as well. If you ever need help with hooking up an external capture card to the Alpha or something let me know. And if you want to use a PC headset that has the mic and audio jacks separate you can use This although fiber optic utilizing headsets (Astros are great my opinion), sound the best.
Could you recommend an external usb sound adapter? I just bought a cheap one off amazon for $6.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467094662&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=usb+sound+adapter&amp;psc=1
EDIT: Didn't notice your audio jack is busted, changing answer.
For what you're doing, a cheap USB soundcard off Amazon will probably be fine, the Dragonfly would be a bit overkill.
Something like this would tide you over until if/when you decide to go with higher quality music and sources:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465910524&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=USB+soundcard
Something like this may work for you
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
More like this.
off the top of my head around 120-150 but thats assuming you buy everything online with free shipping and assuming you have access to alot of tools.
Pi Zero https://www.adafruit.com/product/2885 $5.00
LCD https://www.amazon.com/BW-3-5-Inch-Monitor-Automobile/dp/B0045IIZKU/ $15.50
USB Sound Card https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ $6
USB HUB https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Converter-Android-Samsung-Transformer/dp/B00OZDUTMM $6
Volume Potentiometer https://www.amazon.com/16x2mm-Double-Taper-Duplex-Potentiometer/dp/B00O9Y6Z70 $6
Mono 2.5w amp https://www.adafruit.com/products/2130 $3
ABXY PCB http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/common-ground-dmg-button-pcb-a-b-x-y-version $11.75
Power Boost 1000C https://www.adafruit.com/products/2465 $20
Female micro usb https://www.adafruit.com/products/1829 $1
female usb socket https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Female-Degree-Socket-Connector/dp/B00FH85SGG Free or $6
Stereo Jack https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Plastic-Stereo-Socket-Connector/dp/B00GLQAF7A $6
Slide switch https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-SS12F32-G7-Position-Switch-Solder/dp/B007QAJWYW $6
Membrane set http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/silicone-buttons $2.75
Extra button set http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/custom-buttons $2
28mm Speaker https://www.amazon.com/Metal-Inside-Magnet-Player-Speaker/dp/B00O9YG9GM $6.50
two single button pcb http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/easy_buttons $4.30
2300mah Battery http://www.microcenter.com/product/458057/2,300_mAh_Li-Po_Battery_and_Charger $15.00
If you just want audio you could get something like this. There are better USB sound cards, or you could get a PCI-E sound card
if you're more of an audiophile.or an external DAC setup like /u/EnglishTimelord suggests.Hmm. So the motherboard audio out, which you're using for your speakers isn't, working well.
>I have a USB external Dac
I don't think they're the same but have you considered a USB stereo adapter? At roughly $10US it's cheaper than replacing your motherboard and case.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
Motherboard | MSI Z97 PC MATE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $77.98 @ Newegg
Case | Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $89.99 @ Newegg
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $182.97
| Mail-in rebates | -$15.00
| Total | $167.97
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-28 16:09 EDT-0400 |
To add on to this, I've heard that one of these usb sound cards help alot. It gives it more voltage and results in a clearer sound coming thru the mic.
In this review video he is using the mic with the sound card and it sounds pretty good for the price.