(Part 2) Best faucet parts according to redditors

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We found 384 Reddit comments discussing the best faucet parts. We ranked the 233 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

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Subcategories:

Faucet cartridges
Faucet escutcheons
Faucet flanges
Faucet aerators
Faucet balls
Faucet handles
Faucet o-rings
Faucetseats
Faucet seat & spring sets
Faucet spray hoses
Faucet stems
Faucet trim & repair kits
Faucet washers
Faucet valves
Faucet extension tubues
Faucet index buttons
Sink & bathtub faucet spouts
Faucet supply lines

Top Reddit comments about Faucet Parts:

u/Moth92 · 17 pointsr/funny

You also need to buy this too

u/0110010001100010 · 9 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I suppose I should have done that initially, lol.

3x - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007VZ2O0Q/

1x - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007JRDT96/

1x - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007IJ1GVI/

1x - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007VZ2O1U/

Then just whatever copper/PVC/PEX fittings you need to make it happen. I guess a bit over $100 but the filters drive that cost up a little and last ~3 months each so each pack is a half years worth.

I plumbed mine with a bypass too so I could bypass the filters for maintenance or if I had problems of if I'm doing a lot of outside watering (power washing).

EDIT: Pic here https://imgur.com/7ukQ9p4.jpg

u/widdershins13 · 7 pointsr/Plumbing

No worries. Those are precisely the style of angle stop that would create the issue I described.

A good way to test this theory would be to shut the stop off, disconnect the supply line, attach a new supply line, open the stop slowly and run it into a 5 gallon bucket. If the hammering persists then you've found your problem.

If that does turn out to be the problem I would advise replacing both angle stops with Brasscraft 1/4 turn angle stops.

u/FaithfulTexian · 7 pointsr/GoRVing

You can try getting a black water tank wash nozzle and spray it around through the toilet. Amazon link.

u/trarmstrong · 4 pointsr/hometheater

It's mounted to the floor joist. I cut out a 2" hole through the drop ceiling tile. The outlet is up above the drop ceiling, to hide all cables - which are fed through the 1.5" tube. to cover up the 2" hole, I bought and painted this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CG4F47W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/keep_trying_username · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

The radiators in the hot rooms need smaller vents so they take longer to heat up, and/or the radiators in the cooler rooms need larger vents so they heat up more quickly. Some steam vents have a dial you can adjust like this, others have a replaceable orifice like this one - I got two of them last year and in spite of their low price they work perfectly. If a vent is not adjustable you can replace it with another vent.

Also, the headers in the upper floors may have undersized vents. My house has two headers. One is a short headers supplying 5 rooms, the other is a long header supplying 2 rooms. The rooms supplied by the long header took a long time to heat up, so I replaced the slower header's vent with one of these and it heats up much faster now. It cost me $75 if I remember correctly, but it was well worth it. It has much more venting capacity than anything with a similar price.

One last thing: see the diagram here: https://www.gorton-valves.com/products In general you want small capacity vents for radiators near the boiler/with short pipe runs and large capacity vents further away/with longer pipe runs so the system vents all the radiators at about the same time. It's part experience and part trial and error.

u/ColinAllCarz · 3 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

I need this so I stop loosing my keys - a ninja keep stealing them.

/u/xowyomingox needs this because aliens stole her water faucet head the other day.

u/vazili · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

preventative maintenance aint hard.

and after 5 seconds of research, heres an AC option

Moen 169031 Optional AC Adapter Service Kit for Moen Kitchen Faucets with MotionSense https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CNBSLTK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fSVlDbNY4NCK7

u/CriminallyStupid · 3 pointsr/whatisthisthing

They're generally a somewhat standard item but the housings are made by all sorts of places. That appears to be a carbon block type filter and this is likely a suitable replacement. https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-WFPFC9001-Universal-Carbon-Cartridge/dp/B008A9QKHK

u/Lknate · 3 pointsr/Plumbing
u/daffy_69 · 3 pointsr/ender3

Use this:

Link

it is the best tool for the job.

u/Rithe · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing

I am thinking of buying a nitro tank and regulator so that I could add the ability to brew up a Nitrogen Stout, but before I do this I want to make sure I understand the process

In another thread I saw people saying that the best way to do it was to force carb the beer to your desired Co2 level (lower than normal), then switch to the beer-gas and crank the PSI up to 25-30 and serve through a tap with a restrictor plate. Since I have an intertap setup I was going to buy this and use it. Does that sound correct so far?

Assuming that will work, my question is if I am trying to get a specific Co2 volume in my beer, say ~1.8lbs, is there a way I can calculate this based on PSI force carbing time? I'm not sure exactly how to math out how to aim for a specific Co2 volume. I normally force carb at 30PSI for 2-days like most people, and my Keezer is 38degrees if temperature matters

Thanks for any help

EDIT: I found this pdf by Northern Brewer and on page 2 it has a chart, and it says around 5 PSI for force carbonation and those temperatures. But it doesn't list a time, is it correct and is it 2-days, 2 weeks?

u/Commonsenseplease7 · 2 pointsr/sousvide

I feel like this falls into the category of "common sense" tips. Like...the kind of thing where I would genuinely be concerned for a person that didn't consider this if they cook near a sink and have issues with the water level?

But then again, why do you have issues with the water level? Is there a legitimate reason to waste water like this? (because it IS wasteful). As opposed to simply covering the container? i've done probably one long cook (48-72)/ weekend since I got my anova for christmas, and I've never once had to refill or even touch the water. Both saran wrap + foil and the cooler hack give me nearly identical results too...

That said, if you really wanted to go for it, you could probably just get a diverter valve and then connect it to some sort of drip apparatus with a controlled drip speed. I'm thinking the type of stuff we use for drip systems for potted plants/hydroponics...but you'd need such a slow speed i don't even know if that exists....

u/Saso7 · 2 pointsr/Plumbing

Oh sorry,
Hayward SP1041 White ABS Plastic Round Escutcheon Plate for 1-1/2-Inch Pipe https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CG4F47W/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_4mzBybTDRQYZ2

u/Freon-Peon · 2 pointsr/HVAC
u/ImaginaryCheetah · 2 pointsr/Plumbing

https://www.amazon.com/Sloan-3326009-MIX-60-Mechanical-Lavatory/dp/B001BO8TWA/

lets you set the max temp by bleeding cold water into the hot.

these cheap ones don't have a back flow preventer, but you can do all the installation yourself using pre-made flex hoses.

-

i got a nicer one for my sink : https://www.supplyhouse.com/Honeywell-Sparco-AM100-US-1LF-1-2-Lead-Free-Union-Sweat-Mixing-Valves-70-145F

includes back flow prevention, which can help avoid accidentally soaking yourself if you ever need to do maintenance and forget that your hot and cold water lines are now connected. the nicer ones generally use 1/2" FTP connections.

u/kellyannam · 2 pointsr/GoRVing
u/PennWallace · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing

So I've been trying to find something similar to https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012BFNCJ2/ but that would accomidate my bottle washer & wort chiller so I wouldn't have to lose access my sink during washing & chilling. Does anyone know of a similar product or other option?

u/steve_steve · 2 pointsr/Plumbing

That's a old Delta faucet -- the spout seals with 2 large o-rings. It shouldn't screech when you move it.

If you were to get a rebuild kit it would probably fix the problem. Wouldn't hurt to lube the o-rings with some food-grade lubricant.

u/aroaminglife · 1 pointr/GoRVing

One of these (link is a clean amazon link to the thing, no affiliate link; here to help, not make a few bucks). Your family member may not know it yet, but they will need one eventually.

We got one when we had an, erm, 'incident' and it not only cleaned our clog but the literal crap and paper still stuck in the nooks and crannies of the plumbing from previous owners...

u/WookieInHeat · 1 pointr/DIY

You need to unfasten the flat head screw and the rubber washer will come off, this is all that needs to be replaced. You can take that with you to the hardware store to get the correctly sized $2 replacement, or order an assorted package like this that has all the sizes you could possibly require.

u/mattcassity · 1 pointr/Plumbing

Yes, but out of both taps in the kitchen. For instance:

Only hot valve on: hot comes out of both hot and cold tap in kitchen

This valve is what's installed at this point: amazon.com/gp/product/B001AI1VMW

This trim and cartridge will be installed after the tile goes in: amazon.com/gp/product/B06XHR3Y4W


( just want to be sure the water mixing and coming from both taps is normal before I do the tile )


u/fishtrl · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

I had a brewing buddy do a lot of research on this. Nitro beer's gas is 25% CO2/ 75% N. He charged the kegs at 30psi. Here is the important part. Nitrogen wants to stay in solution unlike CO2 so you have to dispense it though an faucet for nitrogen. You can DIY by rigging a stout intertap to a faucet with hose and clamps (See link) or just buy the whole faucet. There is a screen will small holes that the beer rushes though forcing the nitrogen out giving you that creamy cascade of bubbles.

https://www.amazon.com/Strange-Brew-D1213-Intertap-Stout/dp/B01MS1N42U/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Intertap+Stout+Spout&qid=1556908067&s=gateway&sr=8-1

u/t0x1k_x · 1 pointr/Plumbing

Delta 1600 series shower valve.

https://www.amazon.com/Danco-10004-Delta-Brushed-Nickel/dp/B0040MPK6S

This may fit

u/TheGremlyn · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

A whole house water filter can help a lot with the sediment, and if you use a charcoal block filter, it could be pretty decent water. The iron is a tough one if there really is a lot of iron in there. Might as well get it tested to find out, not that expensive from Ward Labs.

u/bwags123 · 1 pointr/Plumbing

Paying stupid tax in this one 😞
Wishing I hadn't misplaced the original. So, I'm hearing I should have left a bigger hole around the faucet and that this should fit: Danco 10004 Trim Kit, for Use with Delta Tub and Shower Faucets, Plastic, Brushed Nickel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0040MPK6S

u/doggexbay · 1 pointr/Plumbing

> https://www.amazon.com/Sloan-3326009-MIX-60-Mechanical-Lavatory/dp/B001BO8TWA/

Honestly I can swing $34 just fine if it saves me a week of landlord phone calls and maintenance appointments. Does this attach directly to the sink somehow? I'm super game to resolve this myself.

u/jprata · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Light uo your handwashing experience

Damn Loch ness monster!

And it has free shipping

u/signal15 · 1 pointr/DIY

This. Plus, you need to figure out what kind of hose bib to install. In cold areas, these are typically code:
http://www.amazon.com/Prier-P-164D14-Quarter-Turn-Anti-Siphon-Outdoor/dp/B00519RLQ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459284896&sr=8-1&keywords=freeze+proof+hose+bib

They prevent the pipe/valve from bursting if you forget to turn off the water in the winter. However, if you leave the hose hooked up to it when it freezes, it will burst anyway. I typically use these:

http://www.amazon.com/American-Valve-M76QT-Quarter-4-Inch/dp/B0052EKFAE

I always shut off my water in the winter, so I'm not worried about forgetting and bursting a pipe. The nice thing about these is that they are full 3/4" ball valves and have amazing flow. And, they don't wear out and leak like a saddle valve eventually will. You just need to make sure you shut off your water in the winter, and leave this valve OPEN. If you leave it closed, the water trapped inside the ball will burst the sides of the valve.

Since you've got hot water nearby, it might be nice to have it on the deck. In which case, you could get something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Woodford-22CP-12-MH-Frostfree-Horizontal-Mount-Faucet/dp/B001R2CXLY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1459285207&sr=8-3&keywords=outside+hot+cold+faucet

u/wiscowonder · 1 pointr/Plumbing

Howdy, quick question for you. Do you have a 1/4 turn stop valve that you recommend? I was looking at this Brasscraft one, but was slightly worried by some of the comments talking about how it's pretty good for a "metal / plastic" stop valve (as opposed to an all metal stop valve). Thanks for any input!

u/Neurorational · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

http://www.supplyhouse.com/Sioux-Chief-660-GTC0-Mini-Rester-Water-Hammer-Arrestor-1-4-O-D-Compression-Tee-for-Ice-Maker-Tube-Lead-Free

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008RI63BW/ref=psdc_3226897011_t2_B000JRGAMQ

Get the right size for the line to your fridge and install it where the line connects to the fridge. Or if your fridge branches off of the cold water line then you could get the larger one that fits between the sink hose and the cold water valve, it'll dissipate waterhammer from both the cold water valve and the fridge, and also the dishwasher if that's also branched there.

Water arresters actually can absorb the shock generated anywhere in the system to a degree, so if you just install them at your worst culprits then that might also take care of the other fixtures that are less severe.

And take care of your water pressure if it's too high (with a pressure regulator and accumulator).

u/Psychosniper27 · 1 pointr/Plumbing

https://www.amazon.com/Pfister-9742910-974291-Replacement-Part-x/dp/B0029PK3QA
Unless you local plumbing supply has it Price Pfister's part number 974-291