Best fiber optic cables according to redditors

We found 421 Reddit comments discussing the best fiber optic cables. We ranked the 190 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

Next page

Top Reddit comments about Fiber Optic Cables:

u/IsItTooHotInHere · 41 pointsr/ValveIndex

Let me just start off by saying, even with just the few hours I've played with it, I LOVE this thing. Thank you valve for making such an awesome piece of hardware. And yes, my unit does have the joystick issue but it's just the feedback that's broken. My joysticks otherwise register without issue.

But anyways onto the good stuff.

What?


A 20m (65ft) cable run from my desk to right under the couch, so that the only hookup is the breakout / trident cable.

Why?


In my place, I ran into the predicament of the only space I had room to do VR was the living room, but given that putting my entire desk in the living room would have been weird aesthetically, I opted for the cable run, to get VR from the PC in the room across the house to my living room.

What parts?


Pretty simple actually, but it did require 2, not exactly cheap cables, and one coupler (prices in US Dollar).

  • ATZEBE DP Fiber Cable 60ft [$107.99 - Amazon]
  • SIIG USB 3.0 Active Repeater 20m [$115.99 - Amazon]
  • Poyicott DP to DP Coupler [$9.99 - Amazon]
  • (Optionally) 50 count cable ties [$7.99 - Amazon]

    The DP - DP coupler is out of necessity, given that no link box exists with the Index. Yes, it's an expensive solution. In addition to the $999 headset, I've spent another ~$231 on cable runs. But for my situation, it works flawlessly.

    If you are thinking you need a solution like that, and any of the cables are unavailable (the DP cable is out of stock as of writing on July 6th), make sure to get fiber if you can for the sake of not losing quality over a copper cable. As for the USB cable, you're looking for an active cable. These typically have external power bricks to supply additional 5V power that your tower cannot do over such a distance. Edit: _However_, I have found that plugging in the additional power causes the computer to have issues recognizing any USB device, so I guess don't do that if you buy the same cable. Other cables may vary.

    How is it setup?


    I have the cables running along the basebords of the house, from my computer all the way to the living room. They take a right angle, and are gaff-taped down to the floor before running under the couch where they can become a loose coil [pic].

    Does it work?


    In a word, yes! I will update this comment if I run into reliability issues down the line, but it seems that this system works well enough, and has the added bonus of not hearing the PC fans spinning given the off-ear design of the Index headphones. (Edit: The only pitfall is that sometimes you have to power cycle the headset once or twice to get SteamVR to see it, but that doesn't take long. After that it's smooth sailing!)

    Hope this helps anyone that might be needing a similar setup!

    (EDIT: Numerous edits for spelling / grammar)

u/formesse · 23 pointsr/hardware

Not exactly. The limit is propogation of the signal, and being able to read a clear signal. Signal degredation occurs over distance from the transmitting source until a point to which you can no longer read that data without seeing data corruption sufficient to prevent accurate reconstruction.

But you can definitely transmit the data optically, using a USB - just don't expect to power a device on the other end

Same goes for thunderbolt

Kind of expensive, then again - it's also kinda niche.

So for self powered peripherals, or if you can easily power them at the other end - distance really isn't a problem.

Which is to say: Latency isn't really a determining factor for max speed. Signal integrity is.

u/Advanced_Path · 19 pointsr/homelab

The transceivers I'm using are these. I assume they're LED and not laser, as they're spec'd for up to 550m. The fibers are 0.2 meters in length, OM1 rated.

u/diabetic_debate · 10 pointsr/Android

Something like this would be what you are looking for.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T8HWUVS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_2eyIwb7BGSKM4

u/Gawdl3y · 8 pointsr/ValveIndex

I use this USB extender and this DisplayPort cable along with one of these DP couplers with no issues. The DisplayPort cable is like double the length I need, but the price difference between the 10m and 20m one was only like $10, so I couldn't justify buying the shorter one, haha. Perhaps the length may be useful in the future!

u/polypeptide147 · 5 pointsr/audiophile

Awesome.

So, you'll want something like this. It has a 3.5mm jack out and supports tons of streaming services as well as bluetooth. If you can find a chromecast audio anywhere, that might even be better, especially if you don't need to talk to it.

For speakers, these ascend acoustics will be your best bet. They're awesome speakers, with detailed highs and plenty of low end extension.

If they'll be close to a wall, or if you'd just rather order from amazon, these elacs are fantastic speakers. The front port means you can put them close to the wall, so that won't be a problem. They're a very easy to listen to speaker IMO. I have them and I like them a lot.

These monitor audio speakers will sound a bit better (better detail, tighter midrange, etc) but will have a bit less low end extension.

These by HSU might be a gamble. Reviews are scarce, but the ones that are out there are great. Mine aren't here yet so I can't give you any more info than that. Sorry.

Last one (and my personal favorite) is a pair of kef q150. Stunning details, low and tight bass, amazing vocals, the whole 9. They'd be closer to the top of your budget, but they are absolutely fantastic speakers. I really like them a lot.

That budget is kinda in a 'no mans land' for speakers. It's between where the 'budget' speakers are and where the 'high end' speakers start, if that makes sense. Those are pretty much all the ones in that price range, but those are some pretty solid options.

You'll need a way to power them as well.

If you don't have tons of space, a little chip amp could do the trick. I've got a bunch of those and they're all great, but not the best.

Your next best bet would be a 2 channel receiver. Even better, if you're okay with refurbished, a Denon receiver would be great.

To connect the speakers to the receiver/amp, you'll need speaker wire. You can cut it and strip it with a knife or scissors, but this will make the job easier.

Oh, and you'll need this to connect the echo to the receiver. And this one if you go with the chromecast audio.

How does this all look?

u/sjv7883 · 5 pointsr/audiophile

The Chromecast Audio's 3.5mm jack doubles as an optical digital output. You could use this cable and connect it to your receiver and let the receiver act as the DAC. That would be better than using bluetooth and better than using a 3.5mm to RCA cable (which would mean the Chromecast Audio's DAC is used).

u/EpisodeOneWasGreat · 4 pointsr/audiophile

The JBL LSR305 expects line level inputs via balanced XLR or 1/4" TRS connector.

The SVS SB12-NSD expects line level inputs via stereo RCA connectors, and can pass through line-level and high-pass outputs via stereo RCA connectors.

The AT-LP60 has phono and line outs through stereo RCA connectors.

Your laptop probably has a 1/8" stereo TRS connector.

Working backwards from your JBL, you can use a stereo 1/4" TS to RCA cable to connect the speakers to the line or low-pass RCA outputs on the SVS. Check your JBL manual to ensure that a 1/4" TS cable will not cause issues in its TRS jack. An alternative is to use an RCA to TRS cable.

In order to switch your signal source between your computer and your turntable, you'll need an RCA source selector. You can also use stereo receiver or pre-amplifier with source selection.

In order to get your computer's audio output from its line out to the splitter or receiver, you'll need a 3.5mm to RCA splitter cable. That cable will also work for a Coaxial SPDIF digital signal if you go with a receiver, and both the receiver and computer support Coaxial SPDIF. Your computer and the receiver may also support a SPDIF over TOSLINK, for which you'll need a TOSLINK cable. Note that TOSLINK cables and jacks come in two physically incompatible connectors.

The turntable can plug directly into the source selector.

The above Amazon links are to examples of cables and devices you could use with the relevant connectors. You could spend a lot more or less on each cable or device with different brands, colors, etc.

u/Beer_and_wings · 4 pointsr/VintageApple

The 3.5mm jack on the back also takes mini-toslink in, which means with a cheap cable it HiFi makes for a very decent TV speaker.
Here’s a [https://www.amazon.com.au/Toslink-Fosmon-Digital-Optical-MacBook/dp/B01MY2DJUM](cheap cable) that’ll do the trick for $5.

My only nitpick with this setup is that the Siri remote can’t learn the volume up/down commands as they seem to be interpreted as move up/down commands on the TV itself.
I “fixed” this by sticking a white Apple Remote to the bottom of my Siri Remote, which has the added benefit of making the Siri Remote slightly less awful to hold
https://imgur.com/a/tw3trwf/

u/PsyOpWarlord · 4 pointsr/Ubiquiti

https://store.ui.com/products/sfp-modules

For home I just use the Multi-mode MM ( UF-MM-1G ) since its cheaper for regular SFP (not the +) ports. Then for cables on something like Amazon get some OM1 Multi-mode Duplex Fiber Optic Cable (62.5/125) - LC to LC

Something like here. Select the length you require:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Z9301I/

u/danbee · 4 pointsr/apple

You need some sort of DAC to go from the optical digital signal to an analogue line level signal for the speakers.

This is the kind of thing you need: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0074JZ8ZW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&m=A30L2KD589ZCAC

You'll just need an RCA to mini stereo socket cable to hook the speakers up, like this: http://www.majadu.co.uk/35mm-mini-jack-socket-to-twin-rca-phono-lead-cable---18m-341-p.asp

u/II_F0XH0UND_II · 4 pointsr/xboxone

A potential solution is to purchase longer USB mini and TOSlink cables so that you can move the MixamPro closer to you.

AmazonBasics USB 2.0 A Male to Mini B Cable

AmazonBasics Digital Optical Audio Toslink Cable

I use AmazonBasics for a lot of my cord solutions. The only caveat is that you're going to need an adapter to convert one end of the Toslink into a mini because the Mixamp PRO uses a mini if I'm correct. You could also always buy a ready made mini Toslink cable. I use Cables2Go for all of my networking needs, but haven't used any of their Toslinks. Link below.

Cables To Go Velocity Toslink-to-Optical Mini Plug Digital Cable

Edit: Downvote for a potential solution? :/

u/Dallagen · 3 pointsr/headphones

It's just the Custom One Pro Plus, not two variants.

  1. Custom One Pro Plus: Updated Custom One Pro
  2. Custom One Studio: DT770/80ohm in the Custom One Pro's shell (with bass slider) and a bit better sound.
  3. Custom One Street: Portable Custom One Pro (not as good audio quality) and are on ear.

    ___


    In my opinion I prefer the Custom One Studio/DT770/80ohm with any cheap dac/amp to fully power them such as this or this.
    With the second one, you have to have an optical out on your pc, and you have to buy an optical cable.

u/aspbergerinparadise · 3 pointsr/gadgets

does it need to be battery powered, or will it be plugged in?

If it will live near a plug you have a lot more options. You can search for soundbars as well - they're typically used for home theater setups, but would work fine as a stand-alone music player as well.

Bose makes some nice higher-end stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Bose-Solo-Sound-System-732522-1110/dp/B01AWLPUAG

Sonos also makes high quality stuff that looks really nice: https://www.amazon.com/All-new-Sonos-Beam-built-Streaming/dp/B07D494MV1?th=1

u/el_chupacupcake · 3 pointsr/gaming

You can get an hdmi to dvi adapter.

As for the speakers, it looks like the PS4 has an optical out. So either you need a head unit (like a surround sound system) or else a converter. I personally suggest getting a surround sound system, but the choice is yours. You can get an adapter off amazon here

u/Arve · 3 pointsr/audiophile

> Can a Modi 2 Uber play from an iPhone?

Yes, but see notes below.

> Is there another DAC that can?

Yes. Pretty much any USB DAC [1] can be made to work with an iPhone, you'll need:

  1. The lightning to USB Camera Adapter
  2. If the DAC is bus-powered (in other words: Draws its power from the USB connection itself, rather than an external wall wart), a powered USB hub.
  3. Connect iPad to Camera adapter. Camera adapter to hub. Hub to DAC.

    However, if you're using a Modi 2 Uber, I would not connect via USB, as it's massively inconvenient when compared to the alternative, which is buying a refurbished Airport Express and a Mini Toslink to Toslink cable. You then connect the Airport Express to the Modi 2 Uber via the Toslink cable, and you use AirPlay on the iPhone.

    The AirPlay will for an iPhone yield the exact same audio quality as a wired connection, since AirPlay/AirTunes is a lossless protocol.

    ---
    [1] Meaning any USB DAC that conforms to USB Class Audio specs. Most consumer-level DACs do.
u/ThePantser · 3 pointsr/googlehome

Same feature my Lenovo laptop had for optical out, just need one of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MY2DJUM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xJwXBbS97X8S9

u/These_Foolish_Things · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

It depends on the model. https://support.apple.com/en-ca/HT202730

You'll need an optical cable that plugs into the headphone jack. Something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/FosPower-Toslink-Digital-Connectors-Strain-Relief/dp/B00T8HWUVS/ref=pd_sbs_504_1

​

u/Ghost_Pack · 3 pointsr/audio

First double check that your PC doesn't have a combo jack (3.5mm analog and 3.5mm optical in the same port). a lot of modern PCs (especially macs) have this and if that's the case this is your best bet for audio. This is what you'd want.

​

If you're using HDMI output (especially if you're using a receiver or multiple HDMI inputs), something like this is a good choice.

​

If not, your next best bet is a internal soundcard with optical output (like this one) if it's a desktop, or an external USB soundcard with an optical output if it's a laptop (like this one).

​

If neither of these work, and/or you're on a device that only has a 3.5mm analog output and nothing else, you can use one of these with one of these adapters. It's known as an analog to digital converter (ADC) and will take in analog (RCA/3.5mm) and convert it to a digital format like optical. This isn't super recommended, as it add extra conversion steps to the process and will reduce the sound quality of your soundbar somewhat unless you pay out extra money for a high quality professional ADC.

u/xElmentx · 3 pointsr/audiophile

This isn't really the right sub for this, but you won't be able to have them both connected at the same time, if that is what you're trying to do. Unless you bought a Toslink Hub.

But to set them up, you'll have to pair the headset with the wireless amp, and connect the wireless amp to either the Xbox One or the PS4 with the provided Toslink cable. And then just switch the toslink cable from the xbox and the ps4, depending on which one you would like to use.

u/EmLeingod · 3 pointsr/howto

This is what you want to get audio to your speakers, it's called a DAC, (better, more expensive options are available, but that's the best you're gonna do for under $100 lol) and this is the cable to connect the two devices (you'll also need RCA cables)

This will get you video to your projector.

Unfortunately since it looks like you're using powered monitors, you'll need a pre-amp to control the volume.

You may be thinking wow that's a lot of stuff, and it doesn't even come with a remote! And you're absolutely right. Unfortunately, the only thing that does all that is a full blow receiver, which get quite expensive and are usually aimed at surround sound systems. Most receivers don't like powered monitors though, so you'd have to get a very special one.

This is where you realize that passive speakers are what you really want, and you blow hundreds of dollars on speakers and equipment and you become an audiophile. Luckily there's a bunch of guides to get you started over on /r/zeos. But the stuff I listed earlier should let you jerry-rig a working set up while you save up :P

u/crdlb · 2 pointsr/linuxquestions

I'm pretty sure your Mac Mini has an optical out hidden inside the 3.5mm jack. You just need a cable like this one or a mini-toslink adapter with a normal cable.

u/gbwment · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

just this SPDIF cable

u/jarec707 · 2 pointsr/headphones

This FosPower (6 Feet) 24K Gold Plated Toslink to Mini Toslink Digital Optical S/PDIF Audio Cable with Metal Connectors & Strain-Relief PVC Jacket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T8HWV62/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_-SlKAbRZ5NEQQ connects the Chromecast to the optical input on the DAC-x6. Then you just plug the 598s into the DAC-x6. Note you’ll need a streaming source like Spotify or Tidal coming into the Chromecast. There likely is a way to make it work with a media server, but I haven’t looked into that. Note that you control the Chromecast from a phone or tablet, or likely from a Chrome browser. If you want to try a different op amp (amp rolling) in the DAC x-6, I’ll be glad to gift you with one. Feel free to ask questions if needed.

u/ice-hawk · 2 pointsr/homelab

You'd need 1G 850nm SFPs on both sides, (10G to 1G will not work) and a 1M LC to LC Multimode cable:

https://www.amazon.com/Multimode-Duplex-Fiber-Optic-Cable/dp/B004Z9301I

Not really sure if an SFP adapter will work in that SFP+ port

u/hack_tc · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

The cheapest I would go would be this Dayton bundle. If you can spend an extra $15 or so and make this same combo with the Dayton B652 Air speakers instead, that would be even better. Otherwise, you could also get the Dayton B452 Speakers with that same amp as the cheapest solution, but that 4-1/2" driver isn't going to deliver the lows like the 6-1/2" will, so really splurge for the larger size if you can. You likely also need a this cord if your TV has analog audio out. If it has Optical audio out, you will need this cable instead.

Hope this helps. Good luck.

u/PandiReddits · 2 pointsr/deals

It seems to be the official Bose ebay account, so its probably overstock.

*edit

I ordered one, Ive been meaning to get soundbar and it looks like the reviews on Amazon are pretty good for a $200 Soundbar. So it sounds like a no-brainer for $100 off.

u/BBComputerMan · 2 pointsr/Ubiquiti

Thanks! It's this guy right here.

u/samsaBEAR · 2 pointsr/xboxone

To you guys, I bought this for my friend's X12s and it works perfectly. Just need an optical cable and a free power socket and you are good to go, they even sound better than they did on the 360.

u/SherSlick · 2 pointsr/hometheater

3 x HDMI inputs
1 x HDMI output (supporting ARC)
1 x 3.5mm Analogue/digital combi

Its there in the 3.5 jack. Just need a special cable thing:

https://www.amazon.com/FosPower-Toslink-Digital-Connectors-Strain-Relief/dp/B00T8HWUVS/ref=pd_sim_23_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41QcDXYtJOL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=E6J4G8BM6TAZS69JVXF8

Basically the optical lens is at the bottom of the barrel jack. That "cable" in the link will take the standard square TOSlink on one end and connect into the 3.5 jack on the other.

u/Capital_Offense · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I don't think you even need a thunderbolt dock. Get two long DisplayPort cables (or 1 if your monitors can be daisy chained) and then a USB extension with a USB hub on the end. Plug your mouse and keyboard into the hub and plug any audio devices into your monitor. (I assume that they have audio, considering they are high end monitors)

Edit: Because I have nothing else to do, I looked into a single cable thunderbolt solution.
The idea came from this video, and it will be extremely expensive. Like is there really a good reason to not just move the PC by your monitors?
First, to use Thunderbolt, you need to actually have Thunderbolt on your computer. Luckily for you, ASUS has a PCI card to do just that. Your motherboard is not listed as supported, but your motherboard does have the Thunderbolt header that is needed by the card, and is a newer mobo from the same manufacturer, so there is a possibility it might work. Assuming it does, you would just connect the DisplayPort from your GTX 1080 to the Thunderbolt card.

The next thing you need is a long Thunderbolt cable. I don't know how far away the computer is going to be from the TB dock, but here is a 33' long Thunderbolt cable. If you need longer, you can get 100' for $600.

Next, you'll need the Thunderbolt dock. There are many out there. I have no experience with any of them Belkin and Elgato both make them.
An unfortunate thing about the Thunderbolt docks is that they only support dual display when one of the displays is a Thunderbolt display. Otherwise, you can only use one over HDMI or one over MiniDP to DP, but not both. So that would mean repeating the whole setup with 2 docks, or just going with the suggestion I made above.

u/BananasApeUnicorn · 2 pointsr/headphones

E07k/E17 says the recommend impedance is less than <100ohm. The E12 has a lot more power than both the amp/dac combos and can drive up to 300ohm.

Now, the Macbook Pro and Iphone 5 actually have fairly good on board sound so you don't really need a DAC. They measure flat and have literally zero/very little noise, unlike some of my Androids.

What you want to be sure of however is that you use a line out signal so you are not double amping and increasing noise. On the Macbook, it's simply plugging this in between the amp and computer (Optical plugs into Macbook, 3.5mm into Fiio).

For the iPhone, unfortunately, Apple changed their connectors to lightning. The old 30pin connectors get a line out signal, now, you can't really do that as easily. Just look up "Iphone 5 line out" and you can try to find an adapter or solution. There are ways, just a pain to do so now.

u/tboland1 · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Just saw your Realtek Asus ROG screenshot.

If you have digital (optical) out on your computer and you have that cable, use that. The manual suggests that it is included, but I'm not 100% postive based upon their wording. If you have optical out, and don't have a cable, get one. It's called TOSLINK. It looks then same on both ends.Something like this. This is the best solution for PC connection.

Your heaphones are set for high impedance (like they should be) but that's a problem for these speakers.

Edifier FAQ's indicate that there have been problems with detection and they blame Windows for not updating properly. It's bogus that they don't have their drivers available for download.

u/YerWelcomeAmerica · 2 pointsr/ValveIndex

Can confirm 13' with booster worked great, no sparkles. However, I ended up returning it all and going with a 30' fiber cable with a standard $5 coupler and that worked out as well, while being a little cheaper and a lot longer. Here's the cable I got:

https://www.amazon.com/ATZEBE-Fiber-Displayport-Support-Flexible/dp/B07QQNFKZK

No sparkles at all. In the time I've had it, I had the display very briefly cut out twice (just for an instant) but it was in the same game so I'm not sure if it was related to the cable. The game was No Man's Sky which just added VR support and it had a lot of issues, so I'm leaning more towards the game. Either way, it's been so rare that I would think it was worth it.

u/GbMaxSE · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Well you've got a subwoofer, and an amplifier that isn't meant to work with a subwoofer, so that's the bulk of the problem.

The TV has a headphone and an optical out... the Headphone output you can use with a 3.5mm to stereo RCA cable, which is good... but The BasX S8 has line level in and out, but that's only going to work with one source, so no matter what there are going to be sacrifices made, here.

​

Here is my proposed method:

​

u/Berzerker7 · 2 pointsr/headphones

The high gain is really only necessary if you have insanely high impedance, but the normal gain should be fine for the 650s. The balanced triodes means that each of the triodes in the tube will have the same gain through the connection. Could be nice assurance if you want to shell another $2. Low noise and microphonics is nice to have as well.

I do use that kind of a cable, but mostly because adding USB costs money on the Bifrost than just accepting with optical, and a much cheaper one (digital is digital) here. But if you're connecting out of your MBP, you'll need a mini-TOSLINK to regular optical cable (the headphone jack is an optical combo port), like this.

u/TheZellousOne · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Why don't you use Optical out from the TV to the Optical in on the receiver? Like one of these

u/revjeremyduncan · 2 pointsr/audiophile

The 3.5mm output on the Chromecast Audio also doubles as a mini Toslink (digital optical) output. You are probably more familiar with the regular size Toslink digital output that is more common. Here is an adapter that takes you from mini Toslink to Toslink.

If your DAC only accepts a Coax digital input, though, you will need to take that a step further with something like this that converts from Toslink to Coax.

I have not used either of these products, specifically, and therefore cannot attest to their quality or performance. You may want to research their quality and/or consider similar alternatives from other manufactures. I just wanted to provide you with some examples.

Personally, I use just CCA with 3.5mm to RCA analog output right into my amp, and find its internal DAC decent enough for my purposes.

u/applepumpkinspy · 2 pointsr/homelab

0.2 Meter (7IN) Multimode Duplex Fiber Optic Cable (62.5/125) - LC to LC - Orange https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079G56L38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_BiMxCb2PNAW10

u/cctvcctvcctv · 2 pointsr/audiophile

The Chromecast Audio already has a digital audio out. You can get a mini Toslink cable like this and make it work with your amp: https://www.amazon.com/FosPower-Toslink-Digital-Connectors-Strain-Relief/dp/B00T8HWUVS

You can also look into a Raspberry Pi based system along with one of these for a toslink output: https://www.hifiberry.com/products/digiplus/

u/grendelone · 2 pointsr/hometheater

A number of possible solutions. Your TV has optical sound out. So you will need something to convert the optical digital sound signal to an analog signal (DAC). Then you will need something to amplify the analog signal to drive a speaker (amp). Then of course the speaker itself.

Here are some possible solutions:

u/TheSonicKind · 2 pointsr/xbox

Before I got my soundbar with an optical connection and still had my RCA 2.1 speaker set I used an optical to RCA converter I got from Amazon for like £15. The little thing was actually built like a tank and never gave a fault.



Edit : Ninja'd in a link

u/LouGossetJr · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Here you go!

Toslink to Mini Toslink Cable (3 FT), Fosmon Digital Optical Audio Male to Male S/PDIF Fiber Optic Cord for Apple MacBook Pro, Mac Pro/Mini, iMac, Chromecast Audio, & More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MY2DJUM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0tNNBbZWD2ZQ9

u/scott-42 · 2 pointsr/homelab

I'm assuming you just want to play with fiber so with that, pick up a couple of SFP fiber transceivers and some simple fiber with LC connectors. Something like this:

u/colepanda · 2 pointsr/xboxone

Sure. The audio can be a little tricky but here is what I have. The easiest thing would be if your home theater system or tv accepted optical inputs so that you could use the xbox's built in optical and connect if directly to your tv or home theater system without doing any conversions. If that does not work you have to convert the optical to a 3.5mm connection or a rca audio connection (these are the red and white components next to your dvi connection) . The way to do that is by way of adapter or cords. Like others have stated adapters might give you latency problems. So a cord might prove the better way to go. Ultimately for your connection it looks like you will have to go from optical to 3.5mm to RCA audio. Conversely the newer controllers have a 3.5mm connection built into it. So you would just have to go from 3.5mm to RCA audio.

I'll try to find links but hopefully this gives you a starting point.

Edit

Start with this or {this + this} then convert that signal to RCA with this

-In theory this should work

u/joe9439 · 2 pointsr/mac

SPDIF port for audio. You can buy an adapter fiberoptic cable that accepts the signal and can send it to a surround sound system. I think you can connect like a 5.1 surround sound system to your macbook pro this way.

u/EmperorSangria · 2 pointsr/amazonecho

Amazon dropped the ball on the Dot.

  1. You can hook it up to your Yamaha, but the 3.5mm jack outputs analog only - meaning it uses whatever cheap DAC (digital-analog converter) the $50 Dot has rather than the much better one in your dedicated AV receiver. You'll need a 3.5mm to RCA stereo cable to do this (3.5mm jack plugs into Echo, the L and R RCA jacks into receiver's Audio In). Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Ugreen-Plated-Auxiliary-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B00LM2Y2U4/

  2. Or Bluetooth to send the digital signal to your YBA-11 bluetooth receiver (hooked up to receiver via digital coaxial IN), but Bluetooth is lossy compression and further degrades the quality of whatever you're playing (which is already likely lossy since you'll be streaming). Also a bummer it doesn't at least support Bluetooth AptX. Your Yahama YBA-11 bluetooth does support AptX, but Echo does not.

    Just get a cheaper Chromecast Audio - it supports both analog(using 3.5mm or RCA and it's internal DAC like the Dot)... plus a digital out using S/PDIF - you'd connect it to the Optical Digital In connector on your AV receiver with a cable like this: https://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-TOSLINK-Optical-Digital-Audio/dp/B00GZQWLF0/
u/theMadcap · 2 pointsr/AskReddit

You want a 3 way switch, something like this

u/[deleted] · 2 pointsr/gamingpc

The white is digital out (maybe in as well?). If you buy a cable like this:

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-THINTOSMIN6-Toslink-Digital-Optical/dp/B00016W6Y6

and plug the skinny headphone looking plug into the white jack then plug the other end into a receiver that card will do digital out.

u/QuipA · 2 pointsr/headphones

If this is a headphone-out jack with optical capabilities (often found in premium laptops) you need a Mini TOSLINK to TOSLINK cable.

Edit:

  • very easy way to test this. Maybe you have a optical mini jack adapter flying around
  • looks like this
  • when you connect it to the 3.5mm headphone output it will (if the SPDIF is working) flare up bright red
  • Your OS will show a Digital Output Device SPDIF which you will have to select as standard output to make the external DAC receive all the audio data
u/Nmiser · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I just recently got a laptop for college and am moving from Xbox to pc for gaming. I have a set of Astro A50s that I used on Xbox. I'm having some trouble setting it up. I haven't been able to get the mic to work or the surround sound to be at the same quality it was on the Xbox. Also my laptop has no place for an optical cord and was wondering if I should get something like this? Any help is appreciated, thanks!

u/John2Nhoj · 2 pointsr/audio

If it's a modern TV it probably doesn't have RCA Audio Outputs, but only RCA Audio Inputs, which may be why what you are doing seems to be working in reverse.

Most manufacturers have pretty much have done away with RCA Audio Outputs and only have a Toslink (Optical) Audio Output. I've had to help a lot of people with this quirk.

Check to see if your TV has one of these on the back of it somewhere.

https://s13.postimg.org/wlyc6f3fr/toslink.jpg

If so then you will need one of these...

https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD8023-Optical-Digital-Converter/dp/B00KCRYIWM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1480004432&sr=8-3&keywords=toslink+optical+audio+to+3.5mm+jack

one of these...

https://www.amazon.com/iXCC-Tangle-Free-Auxiliary-Connectors-Smartphones/dp/B00KWR8ME2/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1480006007&sr=8-6&keywords=3.5+cable

and one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/BlueRigger-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink/dp/B005LJQMZC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1480005399&sr=8-4&keywords=toslink+optical+cable

Ignore the Coaxial and RCA ports and connect the unit from your TV to your speakers like this.

https://s14.postimg.org/l13ju2ppt/61_FZuvwmw_XL_SL1000.jpg

Otherwise I don't know how to help you.

u/bartforpahl · 2 pointsr/audio
u/TorqTB · 2 pointsr/ValveIndex

Yes, we have. BeatSaber and JetIsland are run at 144.

However I have not used the PassThrough camera.

​

I should be receiving: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QQQFWGT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

To try next week as well on another Index.

u/DustyBadSkillz · 2 pointsr/ValveIndex

I have found that the following combination works flawlessly for me at 10 meters:

Coupler:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00IGSBFJI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

DisplayPort cable:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00V7NOST8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB 3.0 cable:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01FQ88CHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



I tried the above DisplayPort and USB cable with this coupler, AND IT DID NOT WORK:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0037LNXW6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was receiving sparkling RGB pixels on black surfaces and the HMD would occasionally lose connection.

u/kikootwo · 2 pointsr/ValveIndex

Can confirm:

This DisplayPort Cable

This USB3 Active Repeater

And then a standard hdmi connecting to my TV for others to watch. I have no issues maintaining 144hz with this setup

u/gazoom44 · 2 pointsr/applehelp

The gen 3 apple tv and im connecting it to a westinghouse monitor and yes i have an logitech speaker set.

I was going to use this with the apple tv and speakers will it work?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002JFN1A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A8RTQXLJLSITN

u/sfish · 2 pointsr/VaporwaveMiniDiscs

Yes, there are at least three options (maybe more I am not familiar with). If you purchase an external audio interface with a USB -> Toslink digital path (like the Behringer U-Control UCA222), and an appropriate cable, you can transfer all the digital audio content you want in real time from your computer to your MZ-N505. Then you'd need to place your own track marks and name the tracks manually. With NetMD software running on a PC, you can transfer WAV files directly to an MD at LP quality and naming files is much easier. There is more modern software for Windows, Mac, and Linux that can afford SP transfers and which also automates file naming, but you'll need to be comfortable with a command line interface. Setting up any of this is a little outside my ability to support directly, but there are many tutorials online to be found if you look/ask around.

u/Just_A_Member · 1 pointr/gaming

Not sure if this is the right sub, but maybe you could find an optical to aux cable or converter. Here is Amazon's choice for that assuming you have something to connect the aux to.

u/yuhyuhyuh33 · 1 pointr/macsetups

I have this sound bar for my tv and it’s great!!

Bose Solo 5 TV Soundbar Sound System with Universal Remote Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AWLPUAG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LK6jDbQ0D14YA

As for speakers I use some very old ones that are fantastic but they aren’t for sale anymore. Logitech speakers are generally good though!

u/nubsrevenge · 1 pointr/buildapc

ooh, how would i check for this? the chipset is VIA VT1705. I googled it and went to VIA's website on this chipset and it didn't talk about having optical out one of the 3.5mm

edit: wait it does say it has a S/DIF output! that takes the left side of the wire correct?

u/kakemo · 1 pointr/xboxone
u/jonavision · 1 pointr/mac

FosPower (1.8M / 6FT) 24K Gold Plated Toslink to Mini Toslink Digital Optical S/PDIF Audio Cable with Metal Connectors & Strain-Relief PVC Jacket https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00T8HWV62/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GhEtDbHNDFHZS

u/WJKramer · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

Thanks Ben, so UF-MM-1G would work in my case? I guess I would need 2x2packs to accomplish this. What about cabling? They would be 1m or less runs. What about: https://www.amazon.com/Meter-Multimode-Duplex-Fiber-Optic/dp/B004Z9301I/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511893843&sr=8-3&keywords=LC+MM+cable

u/tehboris · 1 pointr/letsplay

The adapter you have posted is a Optical to mini optical adapter I fear not what you need (effectively one of these http://tesco.scene7.com/is/image/tesco/385-6621_PI_1000274MN?wid=493&ht=538).

What you need is some thing like http://www.amazon.co.uk/Digital-Optical-Coaxial-Toslink-Converter-Analog-RCA-Audio/dp/B0074JZ8ZW There are a few things to consider:
That particular converter doesn't have an Amp, if your head phones do not have an Amp you will need one.
Not all TVs output all audio through the optical out output. It is often used for audio signals from built in receives only, check the TV manual to see if this is the case.

u/Umlautica · 1 pointr/audiophile

It doesnt look like your motherboard has the ability to output TOSLINK. You can get any cheap USB optical adapter like this $10 one and a optical cable like this $6 one. Alternatively, go with a USB DAC/Amp like the Fiio E10k.

u/finetune · 1 pointr/applehelp

This cable looks like the one you need.

u/dualmonitoreceiver · 1 pointr/buildapc

ooo, I completely discounted optical since the AB350 doesn't have one. This should work then, right?

The manual states I have to use an HD front panel audio module (which i have), so I guess I'm basically doing the 3.5mm line out route but with S/PDIF. I was hoping to keep it cleaner, but at least it won't be all convoluted with HDMI.

​

Edit: jk that link is a mini toslink, so that wouldn't work without the adapter.

u/th3tak3n · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

I have a UDM-Pro on the way as well with a US-24-500W I'll be connecting it to. I couldn't find ANY SFP (non-plus) jumpers to go between the two, since the US-24-500W only has SFP ports. I instead ordered these to create a short jumper between the two:

https://www.amazon.com/U-Fiber-Multi-Mode-SFP-1G/dp/B01MY5498F/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=UF-MM-1G&qid=1566242692&s=gateway&sr=8-4


https://www.amazon.com/Meter-Multimode-Duplex-Fiber-Optic/dp/B079G56L38/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=.2m+fiber&qid=1566242724&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Both the UDM-Pro and the items above are coming in tomorrow... Excited to get it all hooked up and going.

u/zeke73

u/Costco1L · 1 pointr/audiophile

> I can't even connect the Mojo Chord to the iMac

Why not? Both take USB, and your mac also likely puts out optical through the headphone port; my MacBook Pro does.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11N5A

https://www.amazon.com/FosPower-Toslink-Digital-Connectors-Strain-Relief/dp/B00T8HWV62/

u/READMYSHIT · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Just had a look there. Indeed the tv has an optical out but the motherboard I/O on the PC does not. Will I need to get something like this for the PC?

u/tamman2000 · 1 pointr/hometheater

They are called A and B, not zone 2. I suspected it might have been the digital input...

I don't think I want to connect the TV by RCA because I want to keep the digital 5.1 for movies. Also I have the TV mounted on the wall, with the S/PDIF cable going through the wall and under the house then up into the closet where the receiver lives, and I don't think fishing more cables sounds like a good time.

So, this looks clugey to me, but... could I use this and this to split the S/PDIF signal and downmix it to stereo for whole house? Then just run that downmixed RCA to a different input on the Onkyo. Would that get me (for instance) CBL/SAT is digital 5.1 in one room, and DVD is whole house 2 channel?

Regarding splitting, I wasn't planning on wiring in parallel. I am planning on using a switch box that has an impedance protection circuit. Like this or this. That would prevent the burn out, right?

No line-level outputs on this model either...


Also, thanks for helping out a newbie!

u/BmanUltima · 1 pointr/gaming

Actually, I'm not sure that would work. This one is cheaper and made exactly for what you want to do, there's just a switch to choose which device you want to use. Is that OK?

https://www.amazon.ca/Nyrius-SW100-Digital-Selector-Connections/dp/B000812QC6

u/ticketstobonetown · 1 pointr/cableadvice
u/randomawesome · 1 pointr/ValveIndex

This is the Display Port cable I'm using. Specifically, the 60ft (20m) version:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QQNFKZK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1


which needs to be paired with a DP Coupler. This is the one I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JRGGWH7/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_JvooDbD64BEQP?fbclid=IwAR202v1hw90YHxwzPg8d6--AfZPbiIGascJwdkoUH7iTQvadOpyhKYgoK9M




This is the USB 3.0 repeater I'm using. Again, the 60ft (20m) version:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0053YLYLC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share&th=1


I've been using this setup for the past few days with ZERO issues. Everything works perfect.

u/SmittyJonz · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

You want stereo or 3.0/3.1 with Center channel or 5.1 surround sound. ?
Many prefer a center speaker for tv/movies. I would do 3.0 with Center speaker and receiver.

3.0 R/ C/ L

Receiver

https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavrs640h/denon-avr-s640h-5.2-ch-x-75-watts-a/v-receiver-w/heos/1.html

R/L

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Pack-6-5-Bookshelf-Home-Theater-Speakers-100W-RMS-TP160S-CH-DCM-by-MTX-Audio/193084846113

Center

https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-5-2-Way-Center-Channel-Home-Theater-Speaker-Stereo-Audio-DCM-MTX-TP160C-CH/174020666999

= $389 plus tax.......

Can add a sub and surround later if you choose to......

Or

R/L

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Polk-Audio-Monitor-40-Series-II-BLACK-Bookshelf-Speakers-PAIR/233352506916?

Center

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Polk-Audio-CS10-BLACK-TSi-Series-Center-Channel-Speaker/233352514392

Or

R/L

https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B00E7H8GG2

Center

https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-C-Channel-Speaker-Tweeter/dp/B00HHFBEK6

You Will Need a cpl HDmI Cables to go from cable box, game system, bluray player to receiver then 1 HDMI from receiver to TV OR run everything to TV and then TV to Receiver via Optical cable (depends on your TV) and some speaker wire

HDMI

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable-1-Pack/dp/B014I8SSD0

Optical

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Audio-Cable-Toslink/dp/B075MB19LM

Speaker Wire

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8XOY

.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KWhRhm0iRGY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SZVlGxqIP-w

u/sharkamino · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Smitty! Please consider trying some layout and link formatting!

Are you using the new layout or the old.reddit on desktop? Or on mobile but that's a pain to format.

Here is your post formatted. Much easier to read and digest everything?

------------

You want stereo or 3.0/3.1 with Center channel or 5.1 surround sound. ? Many prefer a center speaker for tv/movies. I would do 3.0 with Center speaker and receiver.

3.0 R/ C/ L

u/I3igAl · 1 pointr/ZReviews

The new SMSL AD18 has two optical inputs, one of them is 3.5mm style that you need an adapter, I will link at the bottom.
 
An additional option that you may consider, put a SoundBlaster Recon 3D or SoundBlaster Z sound card in your PC. it has an optical input and an output, and can pass your PS4 through to the DAC/AMP, as well as mix PS4 and PC sound to play both simultaneously. I use this so I can use PC to watch netflix/twitch or play music while I game on xbox.
 
www.amazon.com/dp/B00T8HWV62 for toslink to mini toslink if you want a specific cable
www.amazon.com/dp/B0002MQGRM if you want to use the adapter and a regular optical cable
www.amazon.com/dp/B01MY96MKC SMSL AD18 DAC AMP

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-0DR8F-00DR8F-Creative-Labs-Sound-Blaster-SB1350-Recon3D-5-1-THX-Sound-Card/381776420498

u/danieljay691 · 1 pointr/Televisions

I bought this, Bill. Will that work or should I cancel and buy something else? I'm a dummy when it comes to electronics


DBTech Digital to Analog Audio Converter with Digital Optical Toslink and S/PDIF Coaxial Inputs and Analog RCA and AUX 3.5mm (Headphone) Outputs - 6 foot Heavy Duty Optical Toslink Cable with Gold Plated Connector Tips Included (Colors May Vary - Black or White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009AGTC3Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HlU5ybWCDJ8EB

u/machinehead933 · 1 pointr/buildapc

There aren't different cards of optical audio cables. You can use something like this

u/I_Am_The_Shazbot · 1 pointr/audio

Yeah I have enough mixer inputs but I need to get an adapter to convert my PS4 and WiiU audio into 3.5mm. Could I use something like this? Or do I need a full on converter like this?

Edit: Nvm I do need to box.

u/RossIV · 1 pointr/techsupport

Your TV has an optical audio output and the speaker receiver has an optical audio input. All you need is a cable like this and it should work.

u/spin_the_baby · 1 pointr/audiophile

It may not be your problem, but yes, repeatedly plugging in/out your cable will cause the connector to wear down. Since it is an optical cable, the connector is probably plastic and will wear fairly quickly.You may be able to wrap some painters/masking tape around the outside of the connector to cause it to fit more snugly. Get something like this or this to mitigate the issue.

u/Kalani1 · 1 pointr/homelab

If it wasn't because Thunderbolt cables by Corning is really expensive i would have recommended: https://www.amazon.com/Optical-Cables-CorningTM-AOC-MMS4CTP030M20-ThunderboltTM/dp/B00HWIPJ9U

I have seen some videoes on YouTube featuring these cables, exactly to remove the computer from the same room etc. https://youtu.be/NshXgisNly4

u/FeistyPotato · 1 pointr/hometheater

Do you think they would be louder than this for example? I’m trying to convince a friend to go with something other than a sound bar.

u/Zero_Heart · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

You have it connected to your TV already right? Cause if so just find a cheap Chromecast even gen 1 to connect through HDMI through your TV, It will work the same as a Chromecast Audio except much easier to connect in this situation. This would cost anywhere from $5-20 max. Another option would be to connect the Chromecast Audio to optical as well and get a splitter like this https://www.amazon.com/Optical-Splitter-VIMVIP-Toslink-Audio/dp/B00OY0WBTA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1543275632&sr=8-5&keywords=optical+splitter+2+in+1+out and use that before going into your DAC.

u/RaymondLeggs · 1 pointr/hometheater
u/brazen8 · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

This will work. You could also get a mini toslink to optical cable and hook up the Chromecast Audio to the Optical input on the Q5. You may get slightly better audio quality using the DAC in the amp versus the built in DAC of the Chromecast Audio. This would also free up the 3.5 input for another source (turntable/CD player...etc).

What speakers are you using?

u/egamble · 1 pointr/audiophile

It will push 8 ohm speakers just fine. I believe you will need one of these cables https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00016W6Y6, also you can hook your PC up via USB.

The front jack is 3.5mm, but your headphones should come with an adapter for them.

u/DreamsOfMorpheus · 1 pointr/hometheater

I thought this was a digital to 3.5 but I was mistaken I think. Although maybe I could use an adapter like this? And yes I don't know the difference and am pretty ignorant about this kind of stuff.

u/mgithens1 · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004Z9301I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_x6BvCbQ75H031
See how that jacket sticks out, it’s not very ‘bendy’

u/sidious911 · 1 pointr/rocksmith

This wont work, you'll get latency from the controller audio still. You could use something like this though. And then you'ld just need a 3.5mm female to female adapter to give you something you could plug your headphones into.

u/TheSithLordFender · 1 pointr/xboxone

Would something like this work?

u/mothmanex · 1 pointr/headphones

The cheapest solution will be with a optical switcher or splitter, like this one.

u/Prophet5 · 1 pointr/xboxone

I use the Turtle Beach PX4 (http://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Surround-PlayStation-Headset-TBS-3276-01-4/dp/B00EI4V3X2), and I love it. I have it set up to work with my PS4, Xbox One, and Xbox 360 through an optical audio switcher (http://www.amazon.com/Nyrius-SW100-Digital-Selector-Compatible/dp/B000812QC6), and everything works perfectly. You do need to pick up the chat cable for the appropriate console separately if you want to use the microphone while gaming, but those are also available on Amazon and / or Turtle Beach's website.

u/FistPumpVeteran · 1 pointr/gadgets

I'm getting a 27inch monitor for myself for christmas this year to go with my laptop and Xbox One. Thing is, the monitor has no sound. I need a way to split the sound off the HDMI and put it through some speakers. Any ideas?
Would something like this work?
EDIT: words, added link to proposed solution

u/e60deluxe · 1 pointr/techsupport
u/wadauganadu · 1 pointr/PS4

Thanks a lot! I've got it set up on my PS3 using AV cables and the RCA cable with the female W/R and male 3.5mm jack and that works fine. Just double checking that I could have just the one set up and that I wouldn't mess up and not have sound for a few days. This is the adapter I was looking at but I think it's ok.
I have a speaker system that has a female 3.5mm port but I have a male-male 3.5mm cable so it doesn't make a difference (I think)

u/nextapp · 1 pointr/AndroidTV

Then in that case I would just use optical audio cable between the mi box and the receiver make sure the optical audio cable has the little adapter mini toslink with it for the mi box.

I found this cable ...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T8HWUVS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yM-hybBYH846N

u/PunishedConstruct · 1 pointr/OLED

So, as luck would have it, I have a Logitech Soundblaster X G5 hanging around.

https://us.creative.com/p/sound-blaster/sound-blasterx-g5

If I :

  1. Hooked Soundblaster into a USB power outlet
  2. Connected Soundblaster to my TV's optical out
  3. Connected speakers to 3.5mm headphone jack of Soundblaster

    Would that work? Also is this the right cable to do that?

    https://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-TOSLINK-Optical-Digital-Audio/dp/B00GZQWLF0/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=line+optical+out&qid=1570698966&sr=8-2
u/RentalGore · 1 pointr/sonos

I believe the Sonos play 5 has optical input EDIT: it has a line in input. Get an optical cable with line out adapter like this https://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-TOSLINK-Optical-Digital-Audio/dp/B00GZQWLF0/ref=asc_df_B00GZQWLF0/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198063088238&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18238044448890120272&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-323411397252&psc=1

Run that cable from your TV to the Play 5. You'll need to set the line level of the input on the Sonos app I believe.

u/ProtoJazz · 1 pointr/AndroidTV
u/bachya · 1 pointr/sonos

I've used this for my Playbar; seems to work fine:

FosPower (3 Feet) 24K Gold Plated Toslink to Mini Toslink Digital Optical S/PDIF Audio Cable with Metal Connectors & Strain-Relief PVC Jacket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T8HWUVS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VyGJzbER6RQJE

u/lennyfromthe313 · 1 pointr/PS4



You got me in the right direction though.
digital optical to 3.5mm

u/kingofthejungle223 · 1 pointr/Chromecast

Well, if it does, this is all it takes to make your wireless audio a dream.

u/runninbad · 1 pointr/Rockband

Here's the set up my wife and I use so we both can play with headphones. The TV only has optical out so we need a few adapters and run the sound right from the TV.

Toslink Digital Optical Fiber Optic Splitter

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OY0WBTA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Digital Coaxial Toslink to Analog (L/R) Audio Converter

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DIRI6I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3.5mm Male Audio Video Extension Cable RCA Male Extension Cable

https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Audio-Video-Cable-Extension/dp/B00004Z5CP/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1481691314&sr=1-8&keywords=rca+to+3.5mm

4-Channel Stereo Headphone Amplifier

https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Pro-PHA40-4-Channel-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B003M8NVFS/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1481691413&sr=1-5&keywords=headphone+amplifier

Works great and we control our own volume.




u/snorbaard · 1 pointr/buildapc

It's yet another switch to toggle, but what about this?

u/Sezhe · 1 pointr/techsupport

You can get 3>1 optical splitters but there will be signal degradation.

Something like this might work?

u/kiwiandapple · 1 pointr/buildapcforme

Alright, hah!

Awesome to hear! I love it when people also love sound.

the ATH-M50's are indeed awesome for most music styles! So great choice.

The Sennheiser HD558's are as well a great choice for gaming! The soundstage is very balanced which is great for gaming. I've got the Sennheiser HD598's myself. They were on a very nice promo, so I couldn't resist.

Ow the Mackie CR4 LTD's are also not bad at all. I personally really.. don't care enough about speakers myself, but because some people do, I did start to study about it. After a while I figured out that.. If I had to use speakers and get high quality on a relatively low cost.
I would get some nice bookshelf speakers and buy a dedicated AMP for them. This would cost around the ~$80-130 (depending on which speakers/amp you decide to go for) including cables, etc.
I have no experience with this, but as far as I am allowed to believe, this would provide amazing sound quality. The Mackies are not bad either and when you compare these setups. I doubt that you'll hear much of a difference.

Now for the HD650's.. Aww, man I am jealous! I absolutely can not afford this just yet. I don't know if I ever will. I did have a chance to listen to them at a convention.. in 2014. Sadly the place was a bit on the louder side, so I couldn't really close my eyes and experience it to it's best potential. But it still blew me away. I don't remember which DAC/AMP they were using at that time, but I assume it probably wasn't cheap.

DAC/AMP


So to help you out, I have also been eye balling a DAC/AMP for.. over almost 2 years now.
Still don't have the money to purchase it just yet. Or well, I spend my money on other stuff.. I am currently trying to save up for a 3440x1440 monitor.. and a new mouse + mousepad.. FCK!
So much to buy, so little money.

Anyway the DAC/AMP combo I am really interested in is the Schiit Modi & Magni. Yes that's really their name.
Here is a review of the original "stack". They've upgraded them now with the Uber versions. The difference is that they're just better, obviously.

---

> So what’s the difference between Magni 2 and Magni 2 Uber?
Lots of things. Let’s break it down:

---

>
Preamp Outputs: Uber has them, standard doesn’t.

  • Gain Stage: Uber has a complementary-input VAS, standard doesn’t.
  • Power Supply: Uber has 3x the transformer (24VA vs 8VA) and 1.6x the filter capacitance (6,400 vs 4,000uF), as well as more sophisticated regulators (programmable vs fixed) and a higher rail voltage (+/-16V vs +/-15V)
  • Chassis: Uber gets an aluminum top cover and solid aluminum milled knob, standard is painted steel and an aluminum-covered plastic knob.

    ---

    > And the difference between Modi 2 and Modi 2 Uber?
    Lots. Let’s break it down:

    ---

    > * Inputs: Modi 2 only has USB, Modi 2 Uber has USB, optical, and coax.
  • Control: Modi 2 has no controls, Modi 2 Uber has an input selection switch.
  • Power Supply: Modi 2 is USB powered, Modi 2 Uber has a linear power supply and wall-wart.
  • Chassis: Modi 2 has a painted steel chassis, while Modi 2 Uber has an aluminum top and pushbutton (pinched off the Bifrost, natch!)

    ---

    Looks like you have to get the Modi 2 Uber to get an optical input!

    Total cost: ~$290 / 340 (depending on if you get the Magni 2 Uber or not)
    Total joy: priceless.
    Watch the review, you'll understand how nice this will be. Especially since we are both not "audiophiles" but we do enjoy good sound. These are perfect for this. They aren't the best DAC/AMP you can get, but they do a damn fine job for us "normal" audio lovers.
    They've got more expensive options, but really those are not required at all.

    I just figured out that you can use the optical cable and connect this to the PS4/XBOX. I don't own a console anymore, so I am not entirely sure. I think you can simply use an optical toslink cable to connect the PS4/XBOX with the "stack". They come in longer lengths as well, if needed!

    Regardless, you need to buy RCA cables to connect the stack together. I had a look on Amazon to find some very small lenght ones, since you're going to stack them on top of each other. It's stupid to buy 3 feet+ long RCA cables. These are very short and according to one of the reviews on Amazon, they fit perfect for the Schiit Stack! They also are "fancy" and have some nice "marketing" features to make the audio better. But whatever, I am sure they will sound great.

    ---

    Headphones!


    Oh lord, yes the HD650 is a beast of a headphone. As I said above, I had the pleasure to listen to it in 2014 and was blown away, shortly after this convention, I managed to buy the HD598s.
    Now I quickly had a look on PCPartPicker for the best price and I noticed something very fun. The HD700's are cheaper right now on Amazon compared to the HD650s.
    So I did a bit of research here as well. Here is a very detailed review. To make it short for you: the DT650 are slightly better, the HD700 are very clear. For gaming the HD700 will probably be more preferred since the bass comes a bit better alive.
    Here is a more "normal" review comparision between the HD650 and HD700.

    So I can only really say, that both of these headphones will blow you away in terms of quality. The HD700's might be more preferred for gaming, but if you also like to listen to music or movies with these headphones, you should likely consider the HD650's.
    If you're absolutely in doubt and want a second opinion. You can probably get better information over at /r/headphones

    Hope this helped you a fair amount. If not, please ask again!

u/dogsinbathtub · 1 pointr/buildapc

I have a z170 pro gaming, too, and I'm 99% sure it has an optical port (out of town at the moment and too lazy to look it up)

OP: go on Amazon and search for optical audio cable. Should get something like:

BlueRigger Digital Optical Audio Toslink Cable (6 feet) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LJQMZC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_3FHHwbF51N328

u/Compupaq · 1 pointr/techsupport
  1. DVI doesn't pass through sound, so you'll need to use either a 3.5mm to RCA adapter or an optical cable (if your laptop supports it, it plugs into the headphone jack) to get sound to your tv.

  2. Most TVs will overscan video to get rid of things like black outlines and other random artifacts that are coming over the signal. This is more of a problem with OTA/cable signals. Computers and bluray players don't usually suffer from those issues and don't need overscan turned on. There should be an option in the TV menu to turn it off. Look in display settings or aspect ratio. If all else fails, most video cards have an over/underscan option so you can change the "safe area" of the signal so the TV doesn't cut it off.
u/dlangille · 1 pointr/homelab

On a related note, are these components compatible?

u/wizzardeel · 1 pointr/AndroidTV

Looks like this should do the trick!

u/jrocketfingers · 1 pointr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

How about this?

u/Xyphious · 1 pointr/Epson

You could try an audio out to optical connector, something like this

u/ninjapirate9901 · 1 pointr/headphones

All you need is something like this: Link

Also I can confirm the Xonar DX has an optical out since I have used the one on mine.

u/soundman1024 · 1 pointr/hometheater

The optical converter /u/freespace303 (btw, happy cakeday freespace) recommend will not work with your setup. This box converts light to electric, but it does not convert digital to analogue. All of the inputs here are analogue. Below is a link to a box that should suit your needs. Note that you'll be feeding stereo, not surround to the system. No different than before I would estimate.

http://www.amazon.com/DBTech-Digital-Converter-Optical-Headphone/dp/B009AGTC3Q/

EDIT: I didn't look closely enough. /u/freespace303's recommendation is good. Shame on me.

u/dr_photo8914 · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

The Chromecast audio has a good number of compatible apps. But the Bluetooth could potentially be easier in certain situations.

I can still control the volume on my phone when connecting to mine. I used a mini toslink to Optical cable :

FosPower (3 Feet) 24K Gold Plated Toslink to Mini Toslink Digital Optical S/PDIF Audio Cable with Metal Connectors & Strain-Relief PVC Jacket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T8HWUVS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.l16Ab2CG1BC0

If for some reason you can't, you could always connect it to your AD18 via the 3.5mm cable it comes with. It would essentially use the DAC on the CCA which isn't that bad.

u/ampsby · 1 pointr/audiophile

If you are going to use it with your macbook, you can get an optical link that plugs into the headphone jack!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00016W6Y6/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/siegewolf · 1 pointr/gaming

Places sell dedicated optical switchers. Amazon had one that woroed pretty well.

Edit here

u/antouann · 1 pointr/Monitors

Thanks for your reply. So, something like this won't work?

u/Don_Drapper · 1 pointr/hometheater

I'll assume you want each soundbar in a different room, because having both in the same exact area would be a waste of space because of both soundbars sound signature and the fact it will most likeky produce echo.

To have both on the same TV, if it has an optical audio out, you will need an optical audio splitter which will allow you to run an optical cable to each soundbard. Your setup would be like this:

Tv -> Optical Splitter -> Optical Cable -> Soundbar

u/jagreen3 · 1 pointr/buildapc

This is for my xbox one. Not PC. I just bought this I think is what i need

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009AGTC3Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Ph0X · 1 pointr/hometheater

Ended up getting something completely different.

Got this receiver from amazon:
http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B010BHSXYQ

although for 550$

I also got this full audio set from shop.ca:
http://www.shop.ca/c/jbl-nightlife-home-theatre-speaker-package-nightlife-Nightlife-Speaker-Package-24866196

Price shown there (but it's out of stock now of course).

After further research, I also had to get the following cables to set it all up:

http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B006LW0W5Y

http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B005LJQMZC

And an HDMI cable

It's very different than everything here, but yeah the deals in my main post ended up running out so I had to find something else. I believe those were good deals and I'm really enjoying the setup now.

But yeah I'm not really an audiophile either so I can't really help you much more than tell you what I got, which isn't really on sale anymore so not worth getting maybe? Although this receiver is amazing so far, even if I have nothing to compare it against.

u/kmrdeva · 1 pointr/AndroidTV

I'd recommend the xiaomi mibox (International edition). It runs Android TV 6.0 and works well with a 1080p TV.

I am in Malaysia and bought my unit from Aliexpress for USD73.

Using a 3.5mm SPDIF to TOSLINK cable like the one shown below, the box outputs audio nicely to my Sony soundbar.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GZQWLF0

u/whatdidshedo · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

This Cable is what i got unless your pc has standard size optical.

u/izacroberts · 0 pointsr/hometheater

No guarantees but this may work out for you: VIMVIP Toslink Digital Optical Fiber Optic Splitter 1 in 2 Out Audio Adapter Cable -Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OY0WBTA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rk1bzb49ERRMY have the male end of that go to your TV and the two outputs going to both the sound bar and the sub seperately. In to the top left optical input in the sub that is. Edit: Do you have remotes for either the sub or the soundbar? Also are there any buttons on either?

u/liquorsnoot · 0 pointsr/diyaudio

The 3.5mm optical cable cable is digital-only. It can't convert a digital signal to an analog one. The combination port also carries an analog signal for a 3.5mm miniplug stereo TRS or miniplug stereo + mic TRRS, but those are capabilities of the port hardware, not the cable.

Edit: I reread the question, and I get that you're looking for the jack hardware. No idea about that, sorry.

u/tororo100 · 0 pointsr/audiophile

I'm assuming that means I wouldn't be able to use cables like the one below and just connect my motherboard and o2 amp? And I'm going to need a dedicated DAC?

http://www.amazon.com/C2G-27016-Velocity-Toslink-Optical/dp/B0002JFN1A/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1422642394&sr=1-1&keywords=optical+to+3.5mm

u/Elasion · -1 pointsr/hometheater

Like this: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink/dp/B00L3KO5WK?th=1

I always thought optical audio was that same jack as a 3.5mm headphone jack...I have an aux cable plugged into my monitor upstairs that has an optical port but it accepts that jack size.

u/3wayhandshake · -1 pointsr/audiophile

It is not a "converter." There is a real truly optical port that is hidden in the headphone jacks of macs. If there's nothing plugged into one, you can turn that output on in the OSX settings, and you'll see it light up. There is no conversion going on whatsoever, it is just an unusual form factor.

This is the type of cable you'd need.

http://www.amazon.com/C2G-27016-Velocity-Toslink---Optical/dp/B0002JFN1A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381065154&sr=8-1&keywords=mini+toslink