Best filtration products according to redditors
We found 164 Reddit comments discussing the best filtration products. We ranked the 85 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
1. 3/8" Hose Barb in-Line Strainer with 50 mesh Stainless Steel Filter Screen
Easy installation with hose barb fittings50 mesh stainless steel filter screen (50 wires per square inch)Clear filter bowl to see when screen needs cleaningSimple twist off bowl means easy dis-assembly for cleaningDimensions: 3" L x 1.89" W x 3.75" H
2. Syringe Filter Sterile PES Hydrophilic Filtration 0.22um Pore Size, 33mm Membrane Diameter Sterile PES Membrane Individually Packed by Membrane Solutions (Pack of 10)
[VARIOUS APPLICATION] - Needle Syringe filters are broadly used in life science laboratories for sterilization of small volume samples, such as protein, culture medium, additives, buffers, reagents, and drugs.[HIGH QUALITY FILTERS] - Membrane Solutions sterile syringe filters with extremely high mic...
3. Neoperl 32 3200 5 PCA Mikado Ultimate Low Flow Dual Thread Aerator, Regular, Spray Stream, 0.35 GPM, Brown/White Dome, 15/16"-27 X 55/64"-27 Threads, Chrome Finish
0.35 GPM ultra water saving is ideal for bathroomPressure-compensating unique water flowSpray Stream15/16"-27 X 55/64"-27 ThreadsRegular Size
4. Sterile Syringe Filters, PVDF, 25mm diameter, 0.2um, Individually Packaged, 1.
INTENDED FOR INDUSTRIAL USE ONLY. THIS PRODUCT IS NOT INTENDED OR APPROVED FOR MEDICAL USE.See ASIN# B07GY28MZ6 for matching syringesPolypropylene Housing0.2 micron filtration membraneLuer lock inlet connection
5. Sterile Syringe Filters, PVDF, 0.2um, WITH Sterile Plastic Luer Lock 10ml Syr...
6. Linktor Syringe Filter PES (Polyethersulfone) Hydrophilic Filtration, General Luer Taper 25mm Diameter 0.22 um Pore Size Non Sterile, Pack of 20 (Pack of 20, 0.22μm PES)
MATERIAL: Hydrophilic PES (Polyethersulfone) membrane with Polypropylene(PP) housing yellow ring, non sterileCONNECTORS: Inlet: female luer; Outlet: male slip luer; Standardized micro leakage free connectionDIAMETER:25mm, PORE SIZE:0.22μm, 20/packMEMBRANE FEATURES: Excellent chemical stability and ...
7. Sterile Syringe Filters PVDF 25 mm Diameter 0.22 um Pore Size Individually Packaged 10/pk by Biomed Scientific
Sterile Syringe Filters PVDF:100% integrity tested, individually packaged,Gamma irradiationDiameter:25mm,pore size:0.22um,10/packIndividual expiry date for easy QC trackingCertified non-pyrogenic and biologically safeApplication: Tissue culture media preparation, Sterile filtration and clarification...
8. Biomed Scientific Syringe Filters PTFE Membrane 25mm Diameter 0.22um Pore Size Non Sterile Pack of 10
Syringe filter PTFE:Hydrophobic PTFE membrane with Polypropylene(PP) housing,non sterileDiameter:25mm,pore size:0.22um,10/packConnectors:Inlet:Female luer,Outlet:male slip luerExcellent unit-to-unit and lot-to-lot reproducibility and consistencyMain features:Broad chemical compatibility;Strong chemi...
9. PneumaticPlus PPR2-N02BG-2 Miniature Air Pressure Regulator 1/4" NPT - Gauge, Bracket, Instrument Pressure (3-30 PSI)
Inlet Pressure: 250PSI / Pressure Regulating Range: 3 to 30 PSIFlow Rate: 49 SCFMPort Size: 1/4" NPTIncludes 0 - 30 PSI Pressure Gauge & Bracket1 Year Limited Warranty. Manufactured In Korea
10. Bostitch BTFP72326 Regulator and Gauge Kit with 1/4-Inch NPT Thread
Country of Origin:ChinaPackage length:6.7"Package width:4.5"Package height:2.0"
11. Syringe Filter, Sterile Syringe Filter, Sterile Individually Packed, PES Membrane 0.22um Pore Size, 33mm Membrane Diameter, Sterile Syringe Filter with Hydrophilic PES Membrane 10 Ps by Alberts Filter
Individually packed PES sterile syringe filterHydrophilic PES(Polyethersulfone) membrane, wets out quickly and completely resulting in fast filtration with superior flow rates and high throughputsPES membrane for aqueous solutions provides removal of fine particles, bacteria, and fungi making it a v...
12. Syringe Filter, Sterile Syringe Filter, Sterile Individually Packed, PES Membrane 0.22um Pore Size, 25mm Membrane Diameter, Sterile Syringe Filter with Hydrophilic PES Membrane 10 Ps by Alberts Filter
Individually packed PES sterile syringe filterHydrophilic PES(Polyethersulfone) membrane, wets out quickly and completely resulting in fast filtration with superior flow rates and high throughputsPES membrane for aqueous solutions provides removal of fine particles, bacteria, and fungi making it a v...
13. 3/8" Hose Barb in-Line Strainer with 20 mesh Stainless Steel Filter Screen
Easy installation with hose barb fittings20 mesh stainless steel filter screen (20 wires per square inch)Clear filter bowl to see when screen needs cleaningSimple twist off bowl means easy dis-assembly for cleaningDimensions: 3" L x 1.89" W x 3.75" H
14. Syringe Filters Nylon 25mm Diameter 0.45um Pore Size Non Sterile Pack of 10 by Biomed Scientific
Syringe filters nylon:hydrofilic Nylon membrane with yellow Polypropylene housing,non sterilleDiameter:25mm ,Pore Size:0.45um, Packing:10pcsConnectors:Inlet?Female luer,Outlet:male slip luerColor-coding: easy to identify the filter membrane and pore sizeApplication:electric semiconductor industrial ...
15. 115 Micron Rosin Press Squish Bags • 2" x 4" • 20 Pack • 115u Microns Filter Screen Made from Polyester ft. Proprietary Stitching- Heavy Duty Rosin Tech Bag Highly Rated for Zero Chances of Blowout
★ 4X STRONGER THAN OTHER BAGS - While most rosin bags sold today are poorly strung together by a single piece of thread making them prone to ripping under intense pressure, ours come in a reinforced rolled hem stitching that's proven to be 4x stronger than other bags.★ 115 MICRON - Whether you'r...
16. Simsii Sterile Syringe Filters, PES Membrane, Diameter: 25mm, Pore Size: 0.22 um, 50 Packs/Package
Membrane material: Polyethersulfone (PES)Housing: Polypropylene(PP) housing with light green ringConnectors: Inlet: female luer; Outlet: male slip luerFluid volume 10~100 mlFilter area: 4.08 cm²
17. Primefit R1401G Mini Air Regulator with steel-Protected Gauge, 60-Scfm At 100-Psi, 1/4" Npt
Locking air regulator for precisely regulating and maintaining constant air pressureAccurate downstream air pressure regulation between 1 and 145-psiHigh impact locking composite regulator knobSteel protected gauge is designed to withstand abuseComes with a 1-year limited
18. VenTech VT FS-6 FS6 Muffler Noise Reducer Silencer System for Inline Duct Fan, 6"
1 VenTech MufflerDimensions 10" 23.75" Diameter Flange 6"Made light corrosion aluminum sheetReduces levels up 25 / to and freePackage 1 6" Muffler 1 Instructional Pamphlet
19. In line Air Compressor Twin Air Filter With Regulator Trap Oil & Water 1/4" NPT
20. Autofil Sterile Disposable Vacuum Filter Units with 0.2um Sterilizing PES Membrane, 500mL, 12/CS
Quick-Connect pedestal base or cradle ring allows for hands free filtrationForward-facing, large, raised graduation marks for easy readingSECUREgrasp bottle cap technologyConveniently sold presterilizedSterileForward-facing, large, raised graduation marks for easy readingQuick-Connect pedestal base ...
Fuck. Family going nuts. Need to finish 2nd half. Here's a start:
I've been working on trying to compartmentalize my homebrewing process so that I can do it in bits and pieces as time allows. I've been thinking about this for a while. Here is the completely stripped down process. Minimal investment, minimal time. All links are what I easily found. I have not spent time trying to find the "best deal." Some will complain some of this equipment isn't good/nice enough. It is. Shipping is not included in any of the pricing. YMMV.
For this thought experiment, we will be making 100ml (10x 10ml vials) of Test E @ 250mg/ml, with 2% BA and 20% BB. This will require 25g of powder, 2ml of BA, 20ml of BB, and approximately 55ml of carrier oil.
Step one: Brew
Beaker Set $6.49 (Amazon)
Borosilicate Glass Stir Rod $1.75 (Amazon)
Small Scale $15.69 (Amazon)
Stove/Cooktop $0.00 (Kitchen)
10ml syringe $12.11 / 5 pack, also has syringe filters (Amazon)
2ml Benzyl Alcohol $4.21 for 50ml (MedlabSupply)
20ml Benzyl Benzoate $5.53 for 50ml (MedlabSupply)
~55ml Cottonseed oil $6.38 for 100ml (MedlabSupply)
3ml syringe you should already have on hand from pinning
Take your 250ml beaker, place it on the scale. Add 25g of powder. Use 3ml syringe to add 2ml of BA to beaker. Use 10ml syringe twice to add 20ml of BB to beaker. Pour CSO until it fills up to 100ml line.
Place beaker on stovetop, turn heat to low. Stir with glass rod. Keep stirring. Keep stirring. Keep doing this until your mix is completely clear (all powder dissolved in).
If you own a home or rent you can swap this out with a dry cloth and some muscle. They're cheap and if enough people did this it would make a huge difference in our water usage as a country. Between this and retrofitting Dule flush toilet mechanisms (idk what they are called) we've saved some serious money in the past 5 years.
Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/Neoperl-32-3200-Ultimate-Aerator/dp/B01MAWALNJ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=NEOPERL+Mikado+.35&amp;qid=1569770993&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-1
> neoperl's Mikado faucet aerator
Vacuum Pump Oil
1/4" Barb x 1/4" NPT Male Hose Fitting
1/4" Male x 1/4" Female NPT Extension Hose
Magnetic Stir Bar
Digital Hotplate with Magnetic Stirrer
Nitrile Gloves (Better than Latex)
Empty Capsules (Buy Separated unless you hate your life)
Capsule Machine (If you value your sanity, buy more than a 100... I hated my life doing this)
Mortar and Pestle (If you're doing orals, get this... Otherwise, you're playing Russian Roulette with your doses and liver)
Funnel (For pouring into small places)
Alconox (For clean your shit)
Temperature Gun (How hot is my shit?)
Graduated Cylinder (If you measure with beakers, you're a fucking idiot... And you should consider Volumetric Flasks)
1 Liter Beaker (Because brewing en'masse is better)
Scale (I have a 2kg one, too)
Calibration Weight Set
Calibration Weight 100g (Because you need two for the scale linked)
Vacuum Regulator (Unless you want to filter 9001 times due to broken shit)
Oil (Any USP grade, filtered or unfitlered)
Flip Top Seals
Autoclave (Cheaper than an oven, why are you using an oven?!)
Weight Boats (Buy a million of these. They're cheap and useful)
Did I miss something? Probably. Yes.
I started doing closed transfers with my Speidel a few months ago and I have to say, there is no looking back. I love my Speidel's even more after I figured out how to make this work for me. It hinges on the fact that 3/8" silicone tubing fits snugly over the Speidel spigot and that you can attach a spigot to the lid. I use 1/2" NPT fittings for a snug fit into the 3/8" silicone tubing.
Picture of my setup: https://i.imgur.com/nJDOGix.jpg
I use CO2 to push out the beer into the keg. Starting from the CO2 tank:
From the bottom spigot:
A couple of points. I fill up my keg completely with StarSan and then push it all out (reusing it, of course) through the in-line filter/tubing setup and then I let the gas blow through the in-line filter for 10-15 seconds or so before hooking that up to the Speidel bottom spigot. The spigot actually has a little vent hole that is open to the outside when the spigot is in the closed position so the CO2 vents even though the tubing is hooked up. I then open the spigot just as much as I need to so that vent hole is no longer opened (but not enough to actually allow beer to flow out) while at the same time turning off the gas flow. This ensures a completely CO2 purged filter and I have not had any issues with oxidation despite filtering my beer. I have also never had any issues with a clogged outpost despite brewing many hoppy beers and NEIPAs because of the filter. It sounds a little complicated but once you figure it out, it works very, very well and solves a common problem with closed transfers to kegs. I don't have to worry about cold crashing in the fermenter either which further minimizes oxygen ingress.
Also, keep in mind you don't need very much pressure at all to move the beer. Once I attach my filter to the bottom spigot, I disconnect the gas line from my keg and connect it to the "blow in" tube attached to the spigot on the lid. I then open the bottom spigot and then finally turn on the gas with the regulator all the way off. I slowly crank up the regulator until I get good flow of beer into the keg. The needle on the regulator will sometimes barely move so I would imagine it is probably about 1-2 PSI max. That's all you need.
Hope that helps! And hope it makes sense. Happy to answer any questions. Closed transfers have really taken my beers (especially hopper beers which is most of what I brew) to the next level.
Considering that with this on the flow rate is .35 gallons per minute where as the standard flow rate for a sensor faucet is about 1-2 gallon per minute, you're gonna have to run it for a while to use more water.
My first question is, did you take out the first dry hops? if not, that's a big reason why you got chlorophyll. I can't remember exactly where i read it or heard it (probably brulosophy) but it's become my new rule of thumb for dry hopping is 1-1.2oz/gal total dry hop, under 65*f for two days max. if you're double dry hopping, take the first dose out after 2 days. Then add your second dose whenever you hit FG and leave those for 2 days and take them out. For second stage dry hops, i've been doing that the same day i start cold crash and leave it for two days, then keg or bottle. I've also filtered using This I got the fine mesh screen and it doesn't impact the haze much at all, just enough to catch hop particles while kegging or bottling.
Of course there's exceptions to the total dry hop rule, but i've noticed for <10gal batches it's on point.
Exchange supplies in U.K. For pins
Amazon for sterile wheel filters. Save money and get the cheaper 13mm diameter and make sure you get sterile ones as they also have cheaper non sterile units for lab use. I bought 30mm diameter for $2.70 each but I use them for filtering steroid powders so I need the bigger types. For single use filtering pills or heroin they're like $1.50. Also get Sterile water vials or NaCl water.
Here you go, a buck each . Ignore the review saying they explode, that's only for people filtering oils. Pushing water through is fine. You can use one per day and be reasonably safe.
Mine does too, it's a pain in the ass. I hooked liquid ball lock post up to a weed sprayer and keep that next to me filled with star san just so I can unclog it when it inevitably happens.
I bought one of these to hopefully help though, haven't tried it yet but likely will next week.
That's a lot of money for a fan. You could always get a cheaper fan that moves more cfm and simply get a fan silencer. You would still save money at that rate and spend the rest on an enclosed hood or cool tube to help with temperature control.
Overall you're good.
Fan Silencer (out of stock at the moment, but cheaper): http://www.amazon.com/VenTech-VT-FS-6-Muffler-Silencer/dp/B00HWILBSS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450225496&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=fan+silencer
Fan silencer (more expensive, but in stock): http://www.amazon.com/Phresh-701200-Silencer-4-Inch-12-Inch/dp/B007ZU5YQS/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450225496&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=fan+silencer
Hood Upgrade: http://www.amazon.com/Apollo-Horticulture-GLRLS24-Hydroponic-Reflector/dp/B00BMVK8HG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450225652&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=air+cooled+hood
Fan and Carbon Scrubber Replacements: http://www.amazon.com/VenTech-VT-IF6-CF6-B-Controller/dp/B0051HDECS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450225799&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ventech+vt+if6
If you're going to be flowering in the tent, I would recommend lightproofing it, as well. Use only the ports in your tent for intake and cut some carbon filters to size. http://www.amazon.com/Carbon-Pre-Filter-38002-Activated-Sheets/dp/B00LXIWNT4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450225982&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=carbon+filter+sheet
Your tent is a little expensive, too. If that's the one you have your heart set on, go for it. As an alternative, I suggest http://www.amazon.com/MILLIARD-Reflective-Hydroponic-Mylar-Window/dp/B00ETBDX14/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450226158&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=milliard+grow+tent
You will want a fan or two of some kind to circulate air inside the tent. 6 Inch clip fans are popular. I use a pair of 4 inch clip fans and a tower fan.
Make sure to look into a DIY Ona Bucket for smells. During flower it will stink up your room when you open the tent. Just turn the Ona bucket on a little before that and you're good. If you're really paranoid about smell, you can also get an inline carbon scrubber. They're pretty expensive and probably not necessary unless you pick some especially fragrant strains. http://www.amazon.com/Phresh-500-Inline-Filter-6-Inch/dp/B00CJIMUH2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450226390&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=phresh+inline
That's my $.02, anyway. There are much more experienced growers here.
I had to break this into another comment due to per comment character limits.
The following previously belonged to the above comment, but was moved here due to the above mentioned limts.
> Something you can do now: Build a filament drybox. Seriously, some filaments such as certain Nylons can go bad in just a few hours, depending on ambient humidity levels. All filaments are susceptible to moisture absorption, and ideally should be kept in something like a Spannerhands holder, even while printing, but at worst you should store them in a big plastic tub with silica gel beads to keep them dry.
> If I had to give one last tip, don't stock up on too much filament yet! Seriously! I thought I would be printing mostly in PLA but now that I've had a few weeks to work with it, I've learned I prefer PETG more, and now I have so much extra PLA! I'm sure I'll find something to do with it, but for my final tip I would add "And get a good variety!". Services like MakerBox (referral) let you try a bunch of different filaments on the cheap. It's not a ton of each filament (about 50g), but I love the variety of materials and colors.
Original second level comment begins:
Final Tips: Bonus Round!
There are tons of other accessories you can get ahead of time. None of these are necessary, but are small things you might end up using (or wanting to try :P), and should help get you started getting a wishlist together. Besides the ones mentioned in this comment (and the one that precedes it) already:
Edit: Upon rereading my comment I realized I have a problem.. I own every product I just listed..
^^Except ^^for ^^the ^^nozzles ^^kit ^^so ^^it's ^^not ^^that ^^big ^^of ^^a ^^problem, ^^right?... ^^Right?!
Variac speed controller
a duct silencer/muffler
insulated duct and google how to insulate/wrap a inline fan for cannabis
I bought it during prime day for free shipping:
but you can find TONS of different kinds. Do some of your own research, IDK if mine are really even that good.
Does anyone know what type of wheel filter you're supposed to use? I just guessed. I wanna include this in the wiki
Works for me! Low flow though just so you know
Alright, The wood, nuts, bolts, screw, L brackets, plastic, plexi-glass, wire, air compressor, duct work reducer (to create funnel), and pail can all be bought at a hardware store outlet. (I had most of those all on hand)
Pneumatic cylinder -crusher 25$
loading cylinder 30$
6mm quick connect fittings 15$ you may need to order a converter or adapter to fit the crushing cylinder. I think its 1/4" fittings, so you could order those too but be sure to check
6mm Pneumatic hose 12$
6mm T splitter 6$
Air Pressure Regulator 10$ use to regulate the air to the loading piston as it runs at a lower psi/ can be slowed down some as well.
Shut off valve 6$
Quick connect to airline 6$ What you need may be different. Depending on your set up.
Arduino Uno 15$
12V Power supply 7$
12V to 9V 6$
158$ + construction materials that shouldn't cost more than 50$
Note: Some of this may be found else where for cheaper, but at least you know what you are looking for. Also I rounded everything up.
Let me know if this helps at all.
Edit: Its also helpful to have someone who can weld, so that cost has to be factored in as well. I traded work for work.
I just picked up this little guy and used it for the first time last light. Appeared to do the trick because there was a ton of trub in the trap when I cleaned it. The beer looked a little clearer coming out than going in too.
I also cold crashed and fined with gelatin.
Cig filters only filter out particles larger than 50-80ug. They also don't filter out ANY of the bacteria. 0.22ug micron wheel filters filter out all particles larger than 0.22ug. It's literally such a good filter that ~99% of bacteria can't even fit through and are filtered out.
Seriously they're only 50 cents to $1 each and they SAVE you fucking money because none of the dope/pill gets left in the cotton. There's also no need to do a cotton wash, which is fucking horrible for you anyways.
Don't ever IV again without a micron filter if you remotely care about your life, body, and standards of living.
Syringe Filters Nylon 25mm Diameter 0.45um Pore Size non Sterile Pack of 10 by Biomed Scientific https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XW7BVG5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_D4m.zbGMH5C86
I'll go in order from the CO2 tank down the line:
I'd also add that you should get an inline gauge that can set the PSI, that way you KNOW that the PSI is consistent at that part of the hose.
This is the one I plan on buying, sounds like it might fix your issue, i'd also get another 5 feet of hose to go from that to your gun.
I purchased mine from the link below, you can build whatever syringe you want. (Highly, highly recommend at least 30ml or 50ml.) I have a glass-on-glass 30ml syringe with a metal luer lock.
And I get a 10 pack of filters from here:
And you have it backwards! Here is how I use this syringe: Pull the plunger out, screw on a filter (skipping this = oil falls right out the bottom), pour from the measuring cup into the top of the syringe until it matches the 30ml line, then place the plunger back in, and begin applying pressure to pass the oil through the filter at the bottom. It is slow going considering I usually run batches of 200-300ml, but I cannot say it doesn't give GREAT results. It is a bit of an investment initially, but I only use one filter per batch, and the syringe is still working great after 5 or so batches, so I'd say it's a damn good one if you like pretty extracts.
I've had issues with my brewbucket as well. At first I worried about the direction the dip-tube of the bucket was in prior to transfer, but unlike Clumsy has stated, I've had good luck with using an inline filter. I leave my diptube at the 6 o'clock position. My process is as follows after a good 2-3 days cold crash @ 34F:
Fill keg with sanitized water until it over flows. Set the lid in place and seal the keg (more water will flow out). Let it sit for a bit, then connect the keg to CO2 and pour its contents out (preferably into another empty keg). Once its purged of O2 and water, disconnect the gas out. Open PRV to release any positive pressure. Connect CO2 to brewbucket and turn on at ~2-4 PSI. Take a hydro sample. This will give you an idea of how much sediment (yeast/hop debris) to expect (and you wont really want that beer in the keg). Rotate clockwise if its suck. Connect the tubing with inline filter to brewbucket (with liquid QD connected) , dont connect the QD to the keg yet. Open brewbucket valve. I raise the tubing up to force air out and press the spring poppit in the QD to encourage liquid out. This can be messy, but it will bleed the line of any O2. I try to keep a solo cup under it to catch any beer. Once there is no O2 inline, connect the QD to the keg and let it fill.
I've had quite a bit of hop debris in the filter before (5oz dry hop), but it continued to flow well enough to get into the keg without clogging the QD. I've had issues where the inline filter seems to have air in it, but this latest process seems OK as long as the filter seals properly. Sometimes the gasket in the filter can get pinched and let air in. If that's the case, just repeat the process. Cleaning out the filter is a lot easier than dealing with a clogged poppit (these have resulted in beer showers multiple times).
Biomed Scientific Syringe Filters PTFE Membrane 25mm Diameter 0.22um Pore Size non Sterile Pack of 10 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPD6PYG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7dHYDbTZA3G38
3cc Luer Lock Syringe (No Needle), Box of 100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N7IJXO5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rfHYDbYENAJ6G
You will need both but can use these for insulin ones
Grab one of these and never have to worry about moisture.
Second cycle. Went the alchemical route and homebrewed. Bought everything but the raws on Amazon. Went with MCT oil because a few people keep recommending it.
Followed /u/BiggerStrongerTaller's "Homebrew on a (smaller) budget" guide and u/forthegains's "Homebrew w/pics" as a visual guide. Super easy.
Thankful for the wiki here that pointed out the many different kinds of filters. Made sure to get .22um and PES Membrane.
I'll share progress pics another time. Here are some brew pics from two nights ago. 1 , 2 , 3
Brewed Test Enanthate. Last (and first) cycle I did 500mg per week for 13 weeks. Didn't need an AI but I do have it on hand. I cruised at 150mg per week because it was my last bottle. I would have preferred to keep doing 500mg for 2 or 3 more weeks.
This time I'm going to take 1000mg per week. I don't mind having high estrogen as long as gyno doesn't start up. I'd rather have it high than crash it. I got my bloodwork for the second time yesterday.
OK, so now for the "ask anything".
Do people still skip out on the AI at this higher dose with success?
I picked up an inline Bouncer Filter a few months ago to help with the problem. I think I like it. The downside is one more piece of equipment to clean/sanitize and you need to purge the air out of the filter. This one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XYQNBQR
Definitely only buy medical grade micron filters. You should be able to find them with a simple Google search. Let me see what I can find.
Edit: Here are some. They are non-sterile, but that should be fine. If you really feel like it you can find sterile ones, but it's unnecessary as those are more for research in bio-safety cabinets and clean rooms.
Also, you'll need these. The filters and these syringes have what's called a "leur-lock" connection, so if you plan on using micron wheel filters then you'll also need to purchase syringes that are compatible with them.
what was your process?
Looks like it could go through a syringe filter to clean it up.
/u/herrschnaufer is correct - freeze everything: iso, bud and any jars that will be used for the extraction. The reason for this is to lock water solubles to the plant. I freeze for 24 hours in a deep freezer. The other plus to this is that you can do multiple washes and if done timely enough, your product will still be amber.
Use 99% Isopropyl Alcohol. The 8% extra water content in 91% will mean you need to purge longer and will strip water-solubles faster than desired.
Use the finest filter(s) you can. I am planning on using one of these for my next run : 0.2um syringe filter
Here's my latest run, first wash and second both made from Mr. Nice Guy buds. The second run was intentionally turned from shatter to wax.
Looks great, nice color.
Can you tell us how much dry weight material you extracted from, is it celite 545 or another pore size.
If you didn’t wash the celite before filtration it’s likely that is the cloudy issue. You can look into syringe filters and 60ml syringes to filter out the small celite particles and clarify the solution.
Biomed Scientific Syringe Filters PTFE Membrane 25mm Diameter 0.22um Pore Size non Sterile Pack of 10 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPD6PYG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PrX.zb4GJ0F6W
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XW7BVG5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_D4m.zbGMH5C86 syringe inline filter they work very well and are essential imo.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zVjDFieC8tA heres a video of someone using it, I usually push the syringe plunger through the filter into a shot glass while its on low heat so the filter gets some heat too and i usually can filter a 5ml load in about an hour if i need it relatively quick, if not ill let it sit overnight.
Is shop air available? As far as I know, there's very little water in shop air. I'd try putting a small regulator like this on the outside of the box, with a small bulkhead (Say 4mm or 5mm) going through the wall. Regulate the downstream pressure to provide air flow, and a check bulkhead/check-valve on the box elsewhere to provide means of escape but prevent anything from coming in?
Just spitballing here.
It is a filter to keep hops out of my lines. 3/8" Hose Barb In-Line Strainer with 50 mesh stainless steel filter screen
You can use gravity, but this way they are both at ground level using CO2 for pressure.
These are wheel filters
You can also get one of these in line filters for any small amounts of trub you might pick up. https://www.amazon.com/Line-Strainer-stainless-filter-screen/dp/B00CH2JSIY/ref=pd_ys_c_rfy_rp_all_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00CH2JSIY&pd_rd_r=448QDF9PD04NK30S0EZ6&pd_rd_w=e80cV&pd_rd_wg=2PYrp&psc=1&refRID=7HDWBV27R5ZB2119GHET
Dude I just made some for like $20 for 8 lids and still have a ton left over I can make. All you need is a drill to make the holes in the lid and boom professional made jars. Picture of the lid. http://imgur.com/gallery/wqLtyFS
Links to products:
Filters that filter out bacteria and all the nasty fillers that are in pills
Like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06Y15LBZ5/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518571534&amp;sr=1-5&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31mI8BAp-nL&amp;ref=plSrch
Yea your O.G. will drop for sure, but you can plan accordingly if you have a ball park range for your efficiency. I've been there before with getting the same efficiency or even lower. There are lots of things you can change to help your system out. It's usually not just one thing, but multiple things hurting your efficiency. Trail and error process...
A single cold crash on your fermenter before transferring to a keg is all that's needed. I also use one of these for super hoppy beers or beers that are conditioned on fruit to prevent any large particles getting into the serving keg. I've had too many headaches with clogged kegs haha
Here’s a company that specializes in THC distillation. Their cheapest setup is $10,000.
These are the syringe filters I use:
After decarbing, pull up into a Luer lock syringe using a blunt tip. Remove the blunt tip and attach the filter. Squeeze into another container before blending with terps. Transfer to cartridge.
like this one?
I'm using some carts I bought off amazon (lol) and that's exactly what I thought might be the culprit at first as well, however, I read in a few different places that even the legit CCell carts and other high end ones do the same thing with homemade oil. I want to buy some nice carts and test it but I'm worried it will be a waste of money. I can provide links to the equipment I use if it helps.
Carts (These were taken off amazon so here's a screenshot. It is a little suspicious that the item was removed)
edit: I should add that I've tried multiple different batteries, some high end with higher voltage and some weaker ones, all to the same effect. The batteries also do fine with normal distillate from normal carts, it's only the homemade ones that have darkening issues. The one I have right now is basically pitch black, for example.
edit2: I know I'm a moron for getting amazon carts I was really broke at the time lol
Would these work together then? Also, how many syringe filters do you go through for a 14g run?
Thanks. I'm way to impatient to wait that long, so I'll try the same recipe again and do as you say to see if it helps.
I forget how much gelatin I used. I bought it at LHB store and it said how much for the 5 gallons so I followed those directions.
Here is the strainer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CH2JSIY
The BA on oral hydrocodone is like 90%, so you're not gaining much IVing it, you're also risking giving yourself space AIDS from all the tylonal. Don't do it, but if you must here's the best advice I can give:
But seriously, you could get a bag of dope for the cost of wheel filters. Why even bother?
I just bought one of these bad boys
Since it bottles from the bottom of the conical, I figure it should have enough pressure to not take forever.
Can you keep the hop particles out of the keg? I use a cheap, reusable inline filter, for example.
Maybe it is my ignorance of the topic that is getting in the way. I want to withdraw from an ugl vial and then inject the filtered contents into a new sealed vial. In other words, using a needle to inject it into the new vial.
With this I can only push out the filter contents as an open air stream. I only see these types of filters around. Is there a specific type I should look for or am I just missing something very basic...
Have you tried using a bouncer. You could always put hops in one and another filtering it. bouncer
It's entirely possible to use a hair straightener if you're careful.
Hash doesn't need a whole lot of pressure. But the temperature you have to watch. It should only have the slightest sizzle when you touch it with your wet finger. When I used one of those back in the day, I would toggle the power until I found the sweet spot.
And you definitely have to use some kind of bag to hold back the plant matter. You can grab them on the cheap from Amazon.
Would this work? http://www.amazon.com/ARKSEN%C2%A9-Compressor-Filter-Regulator-Water/dp/B00CWKTAV6 . I would also get a radiator or two for the heat dissipation.
These are the filters I used, could that be why my tren doesn't feel very trenny?
this ones better, cheaper and a bigger capacity.
Helpful info on the best water to use.
I use cold tap water. I also filter through a micron filter into 10ml amber glass resealable vials. I make my own bacteriostatic water by doing cold tap water with .09% benzyl alcohol. This ends up being 9.1ml of water and .09ml of benzyl alcohol. The benzyl alcohol I get comes in a 50ml resealable sterile bottle.
Here's a link to the 27 gauge 1.25" 3cc sterile needles I get. It comes as one unit with the needle already attached to the syringe. I get my vials, benzyl alcohol, needles, and alcohol wipes from medlabsupply. They have way cheaper pricing and everything you need is on there. Just make sure to get everything you need all at once to avoid paying too much for shipping. I use these 10ml syringes for making the actual solution. You can reuse these as long as you use a fresh micron filter as it will filter any potential bacteria.
You should really research how to do IM injections to avoid getting any abscesses/infections as you can lose a limb. IM is much less forgiving than IV as it's very easy for bacteria to spread in muscle tissue so infection needs to be taken much more seriously. You should be using a fresh needle every time, using alcohol wipes to wipe the top of your bottle of solution if you're using a premade solution, and wiping your injection site before you shoot it every single time.
I'd suggest making solutions since using a micron filter is much safer than a cotton ball. It makes it easier since you can just filter your entire solution at once and use only a single wheel/micron filter for one or two solutions (assuming your doing 10ml solutions). Then your whole vial is filtered and sterile and you don't have to worry about it until you go through the whole vial (1 gram of k per 10ml vial).
As far as injection sites the thigh is definitely the easiest and most forgiving. I'd say glutes are second. I just alternate between each thigh muscle personally. If I did it more often I'd do each thigh muscle and then one or both glutes (choose the one on the same side as your dominant hand if just doing one).
Here's a link that shows your how to find the site properly. Here's another one showing injection sites, how to find them, and how to do IM injections safely. This one is a good video for finding the injection for glutes and where your sciatic nerve is. Even after you know how to find the sites you should still look up images of the nerves that run through the given muscle you plan on injecting into. That way you can know exactly what you're avoiding and it'll will prevent accidentally hitting one.
The most important things are a tank and the ability to fill the tank to a PSI above a minimum of 80 or so. A tank makes it so the compressor doesn't have to run constantly, and creates a buffer so the air pulses of the compressor aren't transmitted to the brush where they can cause dotted rather than smooth lines. You want the compressor to be able to put out a higher PSI because you want the tank to hold enough so you can spray for longer at pressures of 60 PSI or below for longer intervals before the compressor has to refill the tank.
For model painting, most of your spraying will be best done at 20-30 PSI. Higher PSIs like 60 tend to be either for cleaning, or stuff like textile paints (i.e. T-shirt artists). The little "fishtank" compressors like the Ninja Jet can only deliver a max PSI of around 15 or so, which is on the very bottom edge of what most brushes can work with. PSIs of 15 and below are mainly used for tiny close-in detail work with highly thinned paint, and going that low works better with brushes that are designed specifically for detail, rather than "jack of all trades" workhorses.
Different brushes require different CFM (cubic feet per minute- a measurement of air volume rather than pressure), and little "fishtank" compressors are bare minimum here as well, so there will be many brushes where they'll make the brush spray poorly because they physically can't provide enough air to keep up at any pressure. A good target CFM rating for a tankless compressor is 1.5.
A tanked compressor can technically get away with less CFM, since it's not supplying the brush directly, but unless you want to have to stop painting whenever the compressor has to top up the tank, you want the compressor to have enough CFM to supply the brush WHILE also filling the tank, which means check your brush manual/documentation for its CFM, and look for a compressor that is specced over that by at least 1/2. The higher the CFM, the faster the tank will fill. Unfortunately I could not find specs for the Patriot that list CFM, but 1.5 is probably still a good start for a tanked compressor.
"Master" and other such Chinese import brand compressors are popular because people think they're cheap, but for very little extra a brand like California Air Tools will get you better QC, support, reliability, and specs. Chinese airbrushes are comparatively cheap, but the compressors aren't really, so there's not much reason to get the Chinese ones IMO.
Avoid regular hardware-style compressors unless you're painting in a very noise-tolerant environment, as even the "quiet" ones are LOUD AF. Seriously: when the descriptions/reviews say "super quiet" they mean by construction site standards, not household appliance standards.
As to fittings: if you live in a particularly dry climate (like Arizona, say), you can get away with not using a moisture trap, but even there it's good practice to have one just in case. If your climate is any more variable or humid than that, you will want a moisture trap. You can just get one from the local hardware store though: it doesn't have to be a special type. Always place the trap last in the air supply/fitting chain before the airbrush hose, so: compressor-> tank-> regulator-> moisture trap-> airbrush hose-> airbrush. Or if using a bench block as described below: compressor-> tank-> regulator-> connecting hose-> bench block regulator-> moisture trap-> airbrush hose-> airbrush.
In the US, compressors usually have 1/4 NPT fittings. In Metric countries, 1/4 BSP. These fittings are cross-compatible enough that you can use them together with teflon tape.
For hobby and fine art airbrushing, I HIGHLY recommend a lightweight hose like this over braided hoses. Braided hoses are for industrial-type settings like auto painting shops, where hoses need to be extra hard wearing.
BTW, when painting, loop the hose once around your forearm so if you accidentally drop the brush, the hose acts as a lanyard preventing the brush from hitting the floor. I feel like I'm constantly hearing horror stories about people damaging their brush by dropping it when preventing this is so easy.
A tanked compressor with come with a regulator. These are perfectly usable, but imprecise. It's not strictly necessary, but I do highly recommend using the built-in regulator as a step-down regulator, and getting a 0-30 or 0-60 PSI regulator to chain after it. I use one of these on my setup, and it makes adjusting airflow much better.
If you plan on locating your compressor directly on or under your "workbench" surface, that's all you need. If the compressor is going to be outside immediate/easy reach, it can be good to mount your regulator and moisture trap on a separate "bench block" so you can put it on/under your bench within easy reach. This is what I had to do with my setup (I mounted the regulator and moisture trap on a scavenged heavy steel bookend). In that case, you'll want/need a hose like this to go between the compressor and the regulator/filter block.
There are "extras" you can get like a quick-connectors and MAC valves, but I don't personally recommend them. If you're only using the compressor for your airbrush, you don't need quick connectors on the compressor side of the hose, and IMO quick connectors on the brush side don't actually save you time/energy as it only takes 2 seconds to unscrew a brush from the hose. If your regulator is in easy reach, a MAC valve similarly does not save you any time/effort. Both of these also add lots of bulk to the brush stem, which is undesirable if your instinct is to hold/use the brush like a pen instead of a gun. There are mini-filters that go between the hose and the brush, but I generally don't recommend them for the same reason: too much added bulk on the brush stem: it's better to to add to your main filters if you need better filter performance.
I don't have a Badger Patriot, but my understanding is that it's a good brush. I have two Badger SOTAR models, and if they're any indicator, I'd expect spray performance to be comparable to IWATA, but fit & finish to be more raw and "industrial" outside of the nozzle and needle, so a little fussier to keep clean. It should be much better and more reliable than a 20$ "Master" or "Point Zero" or whatnot.
The threads in the head assembly can be a little "gritty" on Badger brushes OOB. If that's the case, I recommend lapping them with something like Flitz to ensure a good seal. Basically just put a tiny dab of compound on the male threads, then screw them in and out about 20 times to polish off the burrs that are causing the gritty/sticky feeling. Make sure to clean the residue off thoroughly before spraying again.
For maintenance, get a roll of lint-free shop paper towels, a couple packs of interdental brushes from the local dollar store, a box of q-tips, and a box of round wood toothpicks. Use paper towels and q-tips wetted with solvent/thinner to clean the cup and needle, the interdental brushes to clean the passageways/tubes in the body, and use a wood toothpick whittled to a needle taper and soaked in thinner to clean the inside of the nozzle (don't use metal tools to clean the nozzle, as they might scratch it or flare the tip). Occasionally you'll need to inspect the needle tip or nozzle for gunk or damage, so you'll want a high-X pocket magnifier similar to this. Also a stick of wax-based lip balm to help the threads in the head assembly maintain a good air seal (apply a tiny amount to the male threads before reassembly after cleaning).
Get or make a spray-out pot. They're easy to DIY out of a margarine tub or soda/juice bottle, so although nice, it's not strictly necessary to buy one.
Get or make an airbrush stand/holder. This is not for storing the brush, but rather for having a way to set the brush down while in-in use without spilling the paint cup. Again: these are easy to DIY, so you don't have to splash cash on one unless you really feel like it.
Hope that helps!
Something like this filter not sure what micron to use smaller the better I believe
Order them from Amazon! http://www.amazon.com/Syringe-Filter-PVDF-diameter-0-2um/dp/B005T45FZM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1342573500&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=wheel+filter
You need a pressure regulator. https://www.amazon.com/Bostitch-BTFP72326-Regulator-4-Inch-Thread/dp/B00HXD2V36/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=pressure+regulator&amp;qid=1572565174&amp;sr=8-7
Pressure is related to flow. So what happens to the gas in the tube is what will determine the actual pressure.
btw basically that same filter is on amazon for like half the price https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CH2JSIY/?coliid=IBMRZSQHWEQ6N&amp;colid=1EGRNUF593MAH&amp;psc=0&amp;ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
One thing i'd recommend is an in-line filter like one of these:
When you go to bottle it will catch all of the hops flakes that dissolve out of the pellet. It keeps your sediment levels low!
Also, you don't need to hop for that long...maybe 3-10 days. The aromatics leech out of the hops pretty quickly and if you leave them for too long, depending on the levels of alpha and beta acids, they may volatilize and escape through the airlock.
Everyone else is spot on...one ounce in 5 gal, or between 5 and 6 grams per gallon should do the trick.
If you're using a yeast that promotes apply estery flavors, something like Citra hops works great. For milder middle of the line flavors, Mosaic hops. Centennial is great for a strong, piney flavor. Or experiment with mixing them!