Best filtration products according to redditors

We found 164 Reddit comments discussing the best filtration products. We ranked the 85 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Furnace filters
Lab filters
Compressed air filtration products
Industrial process filtration systems
Hydraulic filtration products
Industrial water purification systems
Industrial plumbing strainers

Top Reddit comments about Filtration:

u/enkafan · 158 pointsr/oddlysatisfying
u/BiggerStrongerTaller · 31 pointsr/steroids

Fuck. Family going nuts. Need to finish 2nd half. Here's a start:

I've been working on trying to compartmentalize my homebrewing process so that I can do it in bits and pieces as time allows. I've been thinking about this for a while. Here is the completely stripped down process. Minimal investment, minimal time. All links are what I easily found. I have not spent time trying to find the "best deal." Some will complain some of this equipment isn't good/nice enough. It is. Shipping is not included in any of the pricing. YMMV.

For this thought experiment, we will be making 100ml (10x 10ml vials) of Test E @ 250mg/ml, with 2% BA and 20% BB. This will require 25g of powder, 2ml of BA, 20ml of BB, and approximately 55ml of carrier oil.

Step one: Brew
Beaker Set $6.49 (Amazon)
Borosilicate Glass Stir Rod $1.75 (Amazon)
Small Scale $15.69 (Amazon)
Stove/Cooktop $0.00 (Kitchen)

10ml syringe $12.11 / 5 pack, also has syringe filters (Amazon)
2ml Benzyl Alcohol $4.21 for 50ml (MedlabSupply)
20ml Benzyl Benzoate $5.53 for 50ml (MedlabSupply)
~55ml Cottonseed oil $6.38 for 100ml (MedlabSupply)
3ml syringe you should already have on hand from pinning

Take your 250ml beaker, place it on the scale. Add 25g of powder. Use 3ml syringe to add 2ml of BA to beaker. Use 10ml syringe twice to add 20ml of BB to beaker. Pour CSO until it fills up to 100ml line.

Place beaker on stovetop, turn heat to low. Stir with glass rod. Keep stirring. Keep stirring. Keep doing this until your mix is completely clear (all powder dissolved in).

u/mn-tech-guy · 27 pointsr/mildlyinteresting

If you own a home or rent you can swap this out with a dry cloth and some muscle. They're cheap and if enough people did this it would make a huge difference in our water usage as a country. Between this and retrofitting Dule flush toilet mechanisms (idk what they are called) we've saved some serious money in the past 5 years.

Amazon link:

u/Piece_of_Maurice · 6 pointsr/Homebrewing

I started doing closed transfers with my Speidel a few months ago and I have to say, there is no looking back. I love my Speidel's even more after I figured out how to make this work for me. It hinges on the fact that 3/8" silicone tubing fits snugly over the Speidel spigot and that you can attach a spigot to the lid. I use 1/2" NPT fittings for a snug fit into the 3/8" silicone tubing.

Picture of my setup:

I use CO2 to push out the beer into the keg. Starting from the CO2 tank:

  1. Gas tubing to ball lock gas disconnect.
  2. Connect that to a Male 1/2" NPT-ball lock gas adapter from BrewHardware.
  3. That adapter connects to a female 1/2” NPT-male 1/2” hose barb that is in a short length of 3/8" silicone tubing.
  4. That length of tubing is connected to the spigot on the Speidel lid which pushes gas into the Speidel.

    From the bottom spigot:

  5. 3/8" silicone tubing runs from the spigot to an in-line bouncer filter.
  6. From the filter "out" barb, more tubing connects to a 1/2" hose barb-1/4" female flare adapter.
  7. That adapter connects to a ball lock liquid disconnect which is hooked up to the keg liquid out post.
  8. A ball lock gas disconnect is hooked up to the gas in post that has a length of tubing running into a container of StarSan.


    A couple of points. I fill up my keg completely with StarSan and then push it all out (reusing it, of course) through the in-line filter/tubing setup and then I let the gas blow through the in-line filter for 10-15 seconds or so before hooking that up to the Speidel bottom spigot. The spigot actually has a little vent hole that is open to the outside when the spigot is in the closed position so the CO2 vents even though the tubing is hooked up. I then open the spigot just as much as I need to so that vent hole is no longer opened (but not enough to actually allow beer to flow out) while at the same time turning off the gas flow. This ensures a completely CO2 purged filter and I have not had any issues with oxidation despite filtering my beer. I have also never had any issues with a clogged outpost despite brewing many hoppy beers and NEIPAs because of the filter. It sounds a little complicated but once you figure it out, it works very, very well and solves a common problem with closed transfers to kegs. I don't have to worry about cold crashing in the fermenter either which further minimizes oxygen ingress.

    Also, keep in mind you don't need very much pressure at all to move the beer. Once I attach my filter to the bottom spigot, I disconnect the gas line from my keg and connect it to the "blow in" tube attached to the spigot on the lid. I then open the bottom spigot and then finally turn on the gas with the regulator all the way off. I slowly crank up the regulator until I get good flow of beer into the keg. The needle on the regulator will sometimes barely move so I would imagine it is probably about 1-2 PSI max. That's all you need.

    Hope that helps! And hope it makes sense. Happy to answer any questions. Closed transfers have really taken my beers (especially hopper beers which is most of what I brew) to the next level.
u/Box_v2 · 6 pointsr/oddlysatisfying

Considering that with this on the flow rate is .35 gallons per minute where as the standard flow rate for a sensor faucet is about 1-2 gallon per minute, you're gonna have to run it for a while to use more water.

u/spaceghost_n_moltar · 4 pointsr/Homebrewing

My first question is, did you take out the first dry hops? if not, that's a big reason why you got chlorophyll. I can't remember exactly where i read it or heard it (probably brulosophy) but it's become my new rule of thumb for dry hopping is 1-1.2oz/gal total dry hop, under 65*f for two days max. if you're double dry hopping, take the first dose out after 2 days. Then add your second dose whenever you hit FG and leave those for 2 days and take them out. For second stage dry hops, i've been doing that the same day i start cold crash and leave it for two days, then keg or bottle. I've also filtered using This I got the fine mesh screen and it doesn't impact the haze much at all, just enough to catch hop particles while kegging or bottling.

Of course there's exceptions to the total dry hop rule, but i've noticed for <10gal batches it's on point.

u/Blockeduser255 · 3 pointsr/opiates

Exchange supplies in U.K. For pins

Amazon for sterile wheel filters. Save money and get the cheaper 13mm diameter and make sure you get sterile ones as they also have cheaper non sterile units for lab use. I bought 30mm diameter for $2.70 each but I use them for filtering steroid powders so I need the bigger types. For single use filtering pills or heroin they're like $1.50. Also get Sterile water vials or NaCl water.


Here you go, a buck each . Ignore the review saying they explode, that's only for people filtering oils. Pushing water through is fine. You can use one per day and be reasonably safe.

u/bskzoo · 3 pointsr/Homebrewing

Mine does too, it's a pain in the ass. I hooked liquid ball lock post up to a weed sprayer and keep that next to me filled with star san just so I can unclog it when it inevitably happens.

I bought one of these to hopefully help though, haven't tried it yet but likely will next week.

u/EnormousGrowth · 3 pointsr/microgrowery

That's a lot of money for a fan. You could always get a cheaper fan that moves more cfm and simply get a fan silencer. You would still save money at that rate and spend the rest on an enclosed hood or cool tube to help with temperature control.

Overall you're good.

Fan Silencer (out of stock at the moment, but cheaper):

Fan silencer (more expensive, but in stock):

Hood Upgrade:

Fan and Carbon Scrubber Replacements:

If you're going to be flowering in the tent, I would recommend lightproofing it, as well. Use only the ports in your tent for intake and cut some carbon filters to size.

Your tent is a little expensive, too. If that's the one you have your heart set on, go for it. As an alternative, I suggest

You will want a fan or two of some kind to circulate air inside the tent. 6 Inch clip fans are popular. I use a pair of 4 inch clip fans and a tower fan.

Make sure to look into a DIY Ona Bucket for smells. During flower it will stink up your room when you open the tent. Just turn the Ona bucket on a little before that and you're good. If you're really paranoid about smell, you can also get an inline carbon scrubber. They're pretty expensive and probably not necessary unless you pick some especially fragrant strains.

That's my $.02, anyway. There are much more experienced growers here.

u/Hotrian · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

I had to break this into another comment due to per comment character limits.

The following previously belonged to the above comment, but was moved here due to the above mentioned limts.

> Something you can do now: Build a filament drybox. Seriously, some filaments such as certain Nylons can go bad in just a few hours, depending on ambient humidity levels. All filaments are susceptible to moisture absorption, and ideally should be kept in something like a Spannerhands holder, even while printing, but at worst you should store them in a big plastic tub with silica gel beads to keep them dry.

> If I had to give one last tip, don't stock up on too much filament yet! Seriously! I thought I would be printing mostly in PLA but now that I've had a few weeks to work with it, I've learned I prefer PETG more, and now I have so much extra PLA! I'm sure I'll find something to do with it, but for my final tip I would add "And get a good variety!". Services like MakerBox (referral) let you try a bunch of different filaments on the cheap. It's not a ton of each filament (about 50g), but I love the variety of materials and colors.

Original second level comment begins:

Final Tips: Bonus Round!

  1. Extruder Indicators are pretty cool (and USEFUL). You can get the magnets super cheap (or amazon).
  2. Learn how to do An Atomic Pull (AKA Cold Pull), and learn it well. Do this every time you switch filaments (See "Doing it the lazy way" at the bottom of the page). You'll help remove built up deposits each time, which will help ensure a long, jam free life for you nozzle. This also skips the bleeding necessary when switching filaments (on your next "Load" you'll get a few mm of old filament and then pretty much pure new filament after that, instead of the 100mm or so of transition). You can skip doing a proper Cold Pull if you're using a brand new printer anyway. Just do a lazy pull each time you switch filaments, and then a proper Cold Pull maybe every 100 print hours, or after using extremely difficult (wet or super exotic) filaments to help remove any residue that may cause future jams or other issues. This does require undoing and redoing the idler tension again, but once you've done it a few times you can do the whole pull and filament swap in under a minute (minus hotend heatup/cooldown time). White Nylon is great for proper Cold Pulls, partially because you can crank the temp up very high (which ensures any residual filament in the hot end should also melt), White PLA would be okay for example, but may not properly pull PETG or ABS from the nozzle. White is great thanks to the color, of course, which allows you to see any residue easier; However, any color may be used. If you only ever use PLA, then PLA would be just fine for a Cold Pull. Seriously though, start by doing Cold Pulls from Day 1 and you'll easily cut out 50% of your future issues.
  3. The small metric fasteners used in the printer are cheap. They are used in a lot of designs found online, so you should stock up (alternate source). The primary fasteners used are M3 Socket Head Cap 0.5 pitch, mostly full thread. You can also get the nuts very cheap. Square, Nyloc, and Hex. I can get the exact lengths used in the Mk3 if anyone needs them, though I'm not sure the exact grade used, it only really effects corrosion resistance.
  4. You can also Calibrate the Extruder steps/mm and extrusion multiplier. Many people will tell you only the later is necessary but I prefer to do both anyway. Theoretically it does make a difference, but practically you can just compensate for steps/mm with the extrusion multiplier, and for all intents and purposes the result is the same, so "many people" are totally right.
  5. You can also Calibrate the PID. You probably won't have to do this for PLA out of the box, but may find you have some temperature swings with PETG or ABS temperatures. The Official Help Article also discusses this method and how to calibrate using the LCD if you prefer. I like to keep my Mk3 settings vanilla (I've never used an M500 directly, and avoid them when I can), so I like to get my PID values manually and set them in my start GCode instead, which also allows me to setup my slicer so each switching filaments automatically switches PID profiles. The bed can be calibrated as well, but again you probably won't need to do this unless you're experiencing temperature swings more than -/+ 5°. One or two degree dips/spikes is perfectly normal (though theoretically can be tuned out, requires proper enclosure for stable ambient temps, etc).

    There are tons of other accessories you can get ahead of time. None of these are necessary, but are small things you might end up using (or wanting to try :P), and should help get you started getting a wishlist together. Besides the ones mentioned in this comment (and the one that precedes it) already:

  • Wire Snips beat the included pliers hands down. For $4 how are you not going to pick these up right now? The cutting edge on a pair of pliers sucks and it doesn't help that it's ****ing halfway down the length of the tool. I tried to get away with just using the included tools and simply gave up trying to use the included pliers to cut zip ties. If you have Prime, get a pair of these now. Get a pair even if you don't - they're worth the shipping cost too. Thank me later.
  • 608 bearings (for prints such as TUSH),
  • Loctite 222 (helps prevent screws from vibrating free, not necessary thanks to Nylocs used in Mk3),
  • A humidity sensor (for filament dry box and checking ambient),
  • An accurate scale (for calculating remaining filament),
  • A small fan (enhanced print cooling when needed (not very necessary except for ultra extreme bridges), enhanced circulation in filament dry box),
  • Small bags (for silica beads),
  • PTFE tube and matching Bowden Couplers (for something like Spannerhands),
  • Lubit-8 (for the LMU88 bearings),
  • SuperLube (Silicone Grease w/ PTFE for Bondtech Extruder gear maintenance),
  • Canola Oil (for lubricating/cleaning filament and seasoning the nozzle/hotend (not necessary with modern hotends)),
  • Small Brass Brush (also for Bondtech Extruder gear maintenance),
  • Nozzle Reams (for the extremely rare jam, because you're doing your Atomic Pulls, right?),
  • Extra Nozzles (no need for the kit, just an example. Hardened nozzles (black) are a good idea for composites, last longer than Brass, regardless of filament used. Prusa Mk3 comes with 0.4mm nozzle preinstalled, but you can easily swap the nozzle),
  • E3D Hotend Sock (helps lock in heat for (theoretically?) lower current usage and more stable temperatures, also helps keep plastic off the heat block in case of print failure),
  • Magigoo (or other adhesion aids) (for certain exotic filaments, otherwise not necessary with Mk3),
  • Tempered Glass or Borosilicate printbeds (for certain exotic filaments),
  • And of course, Isopropyl Alcohol (70% or better, preferably 91% or better) and Acetone, just to name a few...

    Edit: Upon rereading my comment I realized I have a problem.. I own every product I just listed..

    ^^Except ^^for ^^the ^^nozzles ^^kit ^^so ^^it's ^^not ^^that ^^big ^^of ^^a ^^problem, ^^right?... ^^Right?!
u/2moreweeks · 3 pointsr/microgrowery

Variac speed controller

a duct silencer/muffler

insulated duct and google how to insulate/wrap a inline fan for cannabis

u/C_Lana_Zepamo · 3 pointsr/Addictedtotheneedle


I bought it during prime day for free shipping:

but you can find TONS of different kinds. Do some of your own research, IDK if mine are really even that good.

Does anyone know what type of wheel filter you're supposed to use? I just guessed. I wanna include this in the wiki

u/Simblejick · 3 pointsr/laminarflowporn
u/dabluebunny · 3 pointsr/arduino

Alright, The wood, nuts, bolts, screw, L brackets, plastic, plexi-glass, wire, air compressor, duct work reducer (to create funnel), and pail can all be bought at a hardware store outlet. (I had most of those all on hand)

Everything else

Pneumatic cylinder -crusher 25$

loading cylinder 30$

Solenoids 20$

6mm quick connect fittings 15$ you may need to order a converter or adapter to fit the crushing cylinder. I think its 1/4" fittings, so you could order those too but be sure to check

6mm Pneumatic hose 12$

6mm T splitter 6$

Air Pressure Regulator 10$ use to regulate the air to the loading piston as it runs at a lower psi/ can be slowed down some as well.

Shut off valve 6$

Quick connect to airline 6$ What you need may be different. Depending on your set up.

Arduino Uno 15$

12V Power supply 7$

12V to 9V 6$

158$ + construction materials that shouldn't cost more than 50$

Note: Some of this may be found else where for cheaper, but at least you know what you are looking for. Also I rounded everything up.

Let me know if this helps at all.

Edit: Its also helpful to have someone who can weld, so that cost has to be factored in as well. I traded work for work.

u/SeeDeez · 3 pointsr/Homebrewing

I just picked up this little guy and used it for the first time last light. Appeared to do the trick because there was a ton of trub in the trap when I cleaned it. The beer looked a little clearer coming out than going in too.

I also cold crashed and fined with gelatin.

u/DrMarioBrother · 3 pointsr/opiates

Cig filters only filter out particles larger than 50-80ug. They also don't filter out ANY of the bacteria. 0.22ug micron wheel filters filter out all particles larger than 0.22ug. It's literally such a good filter that ~99% of bacteria can't even fit through and are filtered out.

Seriously they're only 50 cents to $1 each and they SAVE you fucking money because none of the dope/pill gets left in the cotton. There's also no need to do a cotton wash, which is fucking horrible for you anyways.

Don't ever IV again without a micron filter if you remotely care about your life, body, and standards of living.

u/cgar94 · 3 pointsr/oilpen

Syringe Filters Nylon 25mm Diameter 0.45um Pore Size non Sterile Pack of 10 by Biomed Scientific

u/csmicfool · 2 pointsr/PlantedTank

I'll go in order from the CO2 tank down the line:

  • 10lb Aluminum tank, bought at local welding/gas supply

  • This 2-stage CO2 Regulator

  • Replaced the output fitting with one of these

  • Then I have a smaller regulator reduce the line pressure down to a stable 15 psi - I find that the more regs, the better for stable pressure.

  • That leads to two solenoids, one for each tank. You can buy the cheapish milwakee one, or anything that uses 1/4" npt fittings if you can find a better deal.

  • After each solenoid I have a T-junction to a gas pressure sensor reading back to my controller, and the other outlet to the final regulator. You can use the one above, or one of these

  • No need for a needle valve at this point. Go to your bubble counter and then up to your tank.

  • On my big tank I am using a reactor instead of the normal ceramic diffuser I have on the small one.
u/HeroDanny · 2 pointsr/Powdercoating

I'd also add that you should get an inline gauge that can set the PSI, that way you KNOW that the PSI is consistent at that part of the hose.

This is the one I plan on buying, sounds like it might fix your issue, i'd also get another 5 feet of hose to go from that to your gun.

Good luck!

u/ohreuben · 2 pointsr/CannabisExtracts

I purchased mine from the link below, you can build whatever syringe you want. (Highly, highly recommend at least 30ml or 50ml.) I have a glass-on-glass 30ml syringe with a metal luer lock.

And I get a 10 pack of filters from here:

And you have it backwards! Here is how I use this syringe: Pull the plunger out, screw on a filter (skipping this = oil falls right out the bottom), pour from the measuring cup into the top of the syringe until it matches the 30ml line, then place the plunger back in, and begin applying pressure to pass the oil through the filter at the bottom. It is slow going considering I usually run batches of 200-300ml, but I cannot say it doesn't give GREAT results. It is a bit of an investment initially, but I only use one filter per batch, and the syringe is still working great after 5 or so batches, so I'd say it's a damn good one if you like pretty extracts.

u/lanceuppercuttr · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing

I've had issues with my brewbucket as well. At first I worried about the direction the dip-tube of the bucket was in prior to transfer, but unlike Clumsy has stated, I've had good luck with using an inline filter. I leave my diptube at the 6 o'clock position. My process is as follows after a good 2-3 days cold crash @ 34F:

Fill keg with sanitized water until it over flows. Set the lid in place and seal the keg (more water will flow out). Let it sit for a bit, then connect the keg to CO2 and pour its contents out (preferably into another empty keg). Once its purged of O2 and water, disconnect the gas out. Open PRV to release any positive pressure. Connect CO2 to brewbucket and turn on at ~2-4 PSI. Take a hydro sample. This will give you an idea of how much sediment (yeast/hop debris) to expect (and you wont really want that beer in the keg). Rotate clockwise if its suck. Connect the tubing with inline filter to brewbucket (with liquid QD connected) , dont connect the QD to the keg yet. Open brewbucket valve. I raise the tubing up to force air out and press the spring poppit in the QD to encourage liquid out. This can be messy, but it will bleed the line of any O2. I try to keep a solo cup under it to catch any beer. Once there is no O2 inline, connect the QD to the keg and let it fill.


I've had quite a bit of hop debris in the filter before (5oz dry hop), but it continued to flow well enough to get into the keg without clogging the QD. I've had issues where the inline filter seems to have air in it, but this latest process seems OK as long as the filter seals properly. Sometimes the gasket in the filter can get pinched and let air in. If that's the case, just repeat the process. Cleaning out the filter is a lot easier than dealing with a clogged poppit (these have resulted in beer showers multiple times).

u/Disposable187 · 2 pointsr/heroin

Biomed Scientific Syringe Filters PTFE Membrane 25mm Diameter 0.22um Pore Size non Sterile Pack of 10

3cc Luer Lock Syringe (No Needle), Box of 100

You will need both but can use these for insulin ones

u/eegras · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Grab one of these and never have to worry about moisture.

u/sackofwisdom · 2 pointsr/steroids

Second cycle. Went the alchemical route and homebrewed. Bought everything but the raws on Amazon. Went with MCT oil because a few people keep recommending it.

Followed /u/BiggerStrongerTaller's "Homebrew on a (smaller) budget" guide and u/forthegains's "Homebrew w/pics" as a visual guide. Super easy.

Thankful for the wiki here that pointed out the many different kinds of filters. Made sure to get .22um and PES Membrane.

I'll share progress pics another time. Here are some brew pics from two nights ago. 1 , 2 , 3

Brewed Test Enanthate. Last (and first) cycle I did 500mg per week for 13 weeks. Didn't need an AI but I do have it on hand. I cruised at 150mg per week because it was my last bottle. I would have preferred to keep doing 500mg for 2 or 3 more weeks.

This time I'm going to take 1000mg per week. I don't mind having high estrogen as long as gyno doesn't start up. I'd rather have it high than crash it. I got my bloodwork for the second time yesterday.

OK, so now for the "ask anything".

Do people still skip out on the AI at this higher dose with success?

u/Chawoora · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing

I picked up an inline Bouncer Filter a few months ago to help with the problem. I think I like it. The downside is one more piece of equipment to clean/sanitize and you need to purge the air out of the filter. This one:

u/Wallaby_Way_Sydney · 2 pointsr/opiates

Definitely only buy medical grade micron filters. You should be able to find them with a simple Google search. Let me see what I can find.

Edit: Here are some. They are non-sterile, but that should be fine. If you really feel like it you can find sterile ones, but it's unnecessary as those are more for research in bio-safety cabinets and clean rooms.

Also, you'll need these. The filters and these syringes have what's called a "leur-lock" connection, so if you plan on using micron wheel filters then you'll also need to purchase syringes that are compatible with them.

u/exf5003 · 2 pointsr/oilpen

what was your process?
Looks like it could go through a syringe filter to clean it up.

u/bolognasilencer · 2 pointsr/CannabisExtracts

/u/herrschnaufer is correct - freeze everything: iso, bud and any jars that will be used for the extraction. The reason for this is to lock water solubles to the plant. I freeze for 24 hours in a deep freezer. The other plus to this is that you can do multiple washes and if done timely enough, your product will still be amber.

Use 99% Isopropyl Alcohol. The 8% extra water content in 91% will mean you need to purge longer and will strip water-solubles faster than desired.

Use the finest filter(s) you can. I am planning on using one of these for my next run : 0.2um syringe filter

Here's my latest run, first wash and second both made from Mr. Nice Guy buds. The second run was intentionally turned from shatter to wax.

u/Rauchengeist · 2 pointsr/CannabisExtracts

Looks great, nice color.

Can you tell us how much dry weight material you extracted from, is it celite 545 or another pore size.

If you didn’t wash the celite before filtration it’s likely that is the cloudy issue. You can look into syringe filters and 60ml syringes to filter out the small celite particles and clarify the solution.

Biomed Scientific Syringe Filters PTFE Membrane 25mm Diameter 0.22um Pore Size non Sterile Pack of 10

u/niktbh · 2 pointsr/Waxpen syringe inline filter they work very well and are essential imo. heres a video of someone using it, I usually push the syringe plunger through the filter into a shot glass while its on low heat so the filter gets some heat too and i usually can filter a 5ml load in about an hour if i need it relatively quick, if not ill let it sit overnight.

u/Piffles · 2 pointsr/engineering

Is shop air available? As far as I know, there's very little water in shop air. I'd try putting a small regulator like this on the outside of the box, with a small bulkhead (Say 4mm or 5mm) going through the wall. Regulate the downstream pressure to provide air flow, and a check bulkhead/check-valve on the box elsewhere to provide means of escape but prevent anything from coming in?

Just spitballing here.

u/dcabines · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing

It is a filter to keep hops out of my lines. 3/8" Hose Barb In-Line Strainer with 50 mesh stainless steel filter screen

You can use gravity, but this way they are both at ground level using CO2 for pressure.

u/SWPA · 1 pointr/opiates
u/dying_skies · 1 pointr/shrooms

Dude I just made some for like $20 for 8 lids and still have a ton left over I can make. All you need is a drill to make the holes in the lid and boom professional made jars. Picture of the lid.

Links to products:

u/WildOakes · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

Yea your O.G. will drop for sure, but you can plan accordingly if you have a ball park range for your efficiency. I've been there before with getting the same efficiency or even lower. There are lots of things you can change to help your system out. It's usually not just one thing, but multiple things hurting your efficiency. Trail and error process...

A single cold crash on your fermenter before transferring to a keg is all that's needed. I also use one of these for super hoppy beers or beers that are conditioned on fruit to prevent any large particles getting into the serving keg. I've had too many headaches with clogged kegs haha

u/jmillermcp · 1 pointr/fakecartridges

Here’s a company that specializes in THC distillation. Their cheapest setup is $10,000.

These are the syringe filters I use:

After decarbing, pull up into a Luer lock syringe using a blunt tip. Remove the blunt tip and attach the filter. Squeeze into another container before blending with terps. Transfer to cartridge.

u/nevets01 · 1 pointr/Nerf

like this one?

u/_atomized · 1 pointr/CannabisExtracts

I'm using some carts I bought off amazon (lol) and that's exactly what I thought might be the culprit at first as well, however, I read in a few different places that even the legit CCell carts and other high end ones do the same thing with homemade oil. I want to buy some nice carts and test it but I'm worried it will be a waste of money. I can provide links to the equipment I use if it helps.

Carts (These were taken off amazon so here's a screenshot. It is a little suspicious that the item was removed)

Syringe filters


edit: I should add that I've tried multiple different batteries, some high end with higher voltage and some weaker ones, all to the same effect. The batteries also do fine with normal distillate from normal carts, it's only the homemade ones that have darkening issues. The one I have right now is basically pitch black, for example.

edit2: I know I'm a moron for getting amazon carts I was really broke at the time lol

u/beerme1978 · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

Thanks. I'm way to impatient to wait that long, so I'll try the same recipe again and do as you say to see if it helps.

I forget how much gelatin I used. I bought it at LHB store and it said how much for the 5 gallons so I followed those directions.

Here is the strainer:

u/Farmerofwoooooshes · 1 pointr/opiates

The BA on oral hydrocodone is like 90%, so you're not gaining much IVing it, you're also risking giving yourself space AIDS from all the tylonal. Don't do it, but if you must here's the best advice I can give:

  1. Crush up the pill as much as possible

  2. Drop it into a cooker of some kind. The bottom of a can works best

  3. Mix it with water (about .5 ml) until it's evenly mixed

  4. Put it through a wheel filter

  5. Put it in an insulin syringe for injecting

  6. Inject directly into your genitals (obviously don't do this)

    But seriously, you could get a bag of dope for the cost of wheel filters. Why even bother?
u/VentingSalmon · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

I just bought one of these bad boys

Since it bottles from the bottom of the conical, I figure it should have enough pressure to not take forever.

u/chino_brews · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

Can you keep the hop particles out of the keg? I use a cheap, reusable inline filter, for example.

u/Duffythedick · 1 pointr/steroids

Maybe it is my ignorance of the topic that is getting in the way. I want to withdraw from an ugl vial and then inject the filtered contents into a new sealed vial. In other words, using a needle to inject it into the new vial.

With this I can only push out the filter contents as an open air stream. I only see these types of filters around. Is there a specific type I should look for or am I just missing something very basic...

u/se9n · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

Have you tried using a bouncer. You could always put hops in one and another filtering it. bouncer

u/Donkeydonkeydonk · 1 pointr/microgrowery

It's entirely possible to use a hair straightener if you're careful.

Hash doesn't need a whole lot of pressure. But the temperature you have to watch. It should only have the slightest sizzle when you touch it with your wet finger. When I used one of those back in the day, I would toggle the power until I found the sweet spot.

And you definitely have to use some kind of bag to hold back the plant matter. You can grab them on the cheap from Amazon.

u/AquaticPenguinYT · 1 pointr/pcmods

Would this work? . I would also get a radiator or two for the heat dissipation.

u/TrenBerryCrunch · 1 pointr/Steroidsourcetalk

These are the filters I used, could that be why my tren doesn't feel very trenny?

u/Dissostu · 1 pointr/ketamine

Helpful info on the best water to use.
I use cold tap water. I also filter through a micron filter into 10ml amber glass resealable vials. I make my own bacteriostatic water by doing cold tap water with .09% benzyl alcohol. This ends up being 9.1ml of water and .09ml of benzyl alcohol. The benzyl alcohol I get comes in a 50ml resealable sterile bottle.

Here's a link to the 27 gauge 1.25" 3cc sterile needles I get. It comes as one unit with the needle already attached to the syringe. I get my vials, benzyl alcohol, needles, and alcohol wipes from medlabsupply. They have way cheaper pricing and everything you need is on there. Just make sure to get everything you need all at once to avoid paying too much for shipping. I use these 10ml syringes for making the actual solution. You can reuse these as long as you use a fresh micron filter as it will filter any potential bacteria.

You should really research how to do IM injections to avoid getting any abscesses/infections as you can lose a limb. IM is much less forgiving than IV as it's very easy for bacteria to spread in muscle tissue so infection needs to be taken much more seriously. You should be using a fresh needle every time, using alcohol wipes to wipe the top of your bottle of solution if you're using a premade solution, and wiping your injection site before you shoot it every single time.

I'd suggest making solutions since using a micron filter is much safer than a cotton ball. It makes it easier since you can just filter your entire solution at once and use only a single wheel/micron filter for one or two solutions (assuming your doing 10ml solutions). Then your whole vial is filtered and sterile and you don't have to worry about it until you go through the whole vial (1 gram of k per 10ml vial).

As far as injection sites the thigh is definitely the easiest and most forgiving. I'd say glutes are second. I just alternate between each thigh muscle personally. If I did it more often I'd do each thigh muscle and then one or both glutes (choose the one on the same side as your dominant hand if just doing one).

Here's a link that shows your how to find the site properly. Here's another one showing injection sites, how to find them, and how to do IM injections safely. This one is a good video for finding the injection for glutes and where your sciatic nerve is. Even after you know how to find the sites you should still look up images of the nerves that run through the given muscle you plan on injecting into. That way you can know exactly what you're avoiding and it'll will prevent accidentally hitting one.

u/Incidental_Octopus · 1 pointr/minipainting

The most important things are a tank and the ability to fill the tank to a PSI above a minimum of 80 or so. A tank makes it so the compressor doesn't have to run constantly, and creates a buffer so the air pulses of the compressor aren't transmitted to the brush where they can cause dotted rather than smooth lines. You want the compressor to be able to put out a higher PSI because you want the tank to hold enough so you can spray for longer at pressures of 60 PSI or below for longer intervals before the compressor has to refill the tank.

For model painting, most of your spraying will be best done at 20-30 PSI. Higher PSIs like 60 tend to be either for cleaning, or stuff like textile paints (i.e. T-shirt artists). The little "fishtank" compressors like the Ninja Jet can only deliver a max PSI of around 15 or so, which is on the very bottom edge of what most brushes can work with. PSIs of 15 and below are mainly used for tiny close-in detail work with highly thinned paint, and going that low works better with brushes that are designed specifically for detail, rather than "jack of all trades" workhorses.

Different brushes require different CFM (cubic feet per minute- a measurement of air volume rather than pressure), and little "fishtank" compressors are bare minimum here as well, so there will be many brushes where they'll make the brush spray poorly because they physically can't provide enough air to keep up at any pressure. A good target CFM rating for a tankless compressor is 1.5.

A tanked compressor can technically get away with less CFM, since it's not supplying the brush directly, but unless you want to have to stop painting whenever the compressor has to top up the tank, you want the compressor to have enough CFM to supply the brush WHILE also filling the tank, which means check your brush manual/documentation for its CFM, and look for a compressor that is specced over that by at least 1/2. The higher the CFM, the faster the tank will fill. Unfortunately I could not find specs for the Patriot that list CFM, but 1.5 is probably still a good start for a tanked compressor.

"Master" and other such Chinese import brand compressors are popular because people think they're cheap, but for very little extra a brand like California Air Tools will get you better QC, support, reliability, and specs. Chinese airbrushes are comparatively cheap, but the compressors aren't really, so there's not much reason to get the Chinese ones IMO.

Avoid regular hardware-style compressors unless you're painting in a very noise-tolerant environment, as even the "quiet" ones are LOUD AF. Seriously: when the descriptions/reviews say "super quiet" they mean by construction site standards, not household appliance standards.

As to fittings: if you live in a particularly dry climate (like Arizona, say), you can get away with not using a moisture trap, but even there it's good practice to have one just in case. If your climate is any more variable or humid than that, you will want a moisture trap. You can just get one from the local hardware store though: it doesn't have to be a special type. Always place the trap last in the air supply/fitting chain before the airbrush hose, so: compressor-> tank-> regulator-> moisture trap-> airbrush hose-> airbrush. Or if using a bench block as described below: compressor-> tank-> regulator-> connecting hose-> bench block regulator-> moisture trap-> airbrush hose-> airbrush.

In the US, compressors usually have 1/4 NPT fittings. In Metric countries, 1/4 BSP. These fittings are cross-compatible enough that you can use them together with teflon tape.

For hobby and fine art airbrushing, I HIGHLY recommend a lightweight hose like this over braided hoses. Braided hoses are for industrial-type settings like auto painting shops, where hoses need to be extra hard wearing.

BTW, when painting, loop the hose once around your forearm so if you accidentally drop the brush, the hose acts as a lanyard preventing the brush from hitting the floor. I feel like I'm constantly hearing horror stories about people damaging their brush by dropping it when preventing this is so easy.

A tanked compressor with come with a regulator. These are perfectly usable, but imprecise. It's not strictly necessary, but I do highly recommend using the built-in regulator as a step-down regulator, and getting a 0-30 or 0-60 PSI regulator to chain after it. I use one of these on my setup, and it makes adjusting airflow much better.

If you plan on locating your compressor directly on or under your "workbench" surface, that's all you need. If the compressor is going to be outside immediate/easy reach, it can be good to mount your regulator and moisture trap on a separate "bench block" so you can put it on/under your bench within easy reach. This is what I had to do with my setup (I mounted the regulator and moisture trap on a scavenged heavy steel bookend). In that case, you'll want/need a hose like this to go between the compressor and the regulator/filter block.

There are "extras" you can get like a quick-connectors and MAC valves, but I don't personally recommend them. If you're only using the compressor for your airbrush, you don't need quick connectors on the compressor side of the hose, and IMO quick connectors on the brush side don't actually save you time/energy as it only takes 2 seconds to unscrew a brush from the hose. If your regulator is in easy reach, a MAC valve similarly does not save you any time/effort. Both of these also add lots of bulk to the brush stem, which is undesirable if your instinct is to hold/use the brush like a pen instead of a gun. There are mini-filters that go between the hose and the brush, but I generally don't recommend them for the same reason: too much added bulk on the brush stem: it's better to to add to your main filters if you need better filter performance.

I don't have a Badger Patriot, but my understanding is that it's a good brush. I have two Badger SOTAR models, and if they're any indicator, I'd expect spray performance to be comparable to IWATA, but fit & finish to be more raw and "industrial" outside of the nozzle and needle, so a little fussier to keep clean. It should be much better and more reliable than a 20$ "Master" or "Point Zero" or whatnot.

The threads in the head assembly can be a little "gritty" on Badger brushes OOB. If that's the case, I recommend lapping them with something like Flitz to ensure a good seal. Basically just put a tiny dab of compound on the male threads, then screw them in and out about 20 times to polish off the burrs that are causing the gritty/sticky feeling. Make sure to clean the residue off thoroughly before spraying again.

For maintenance, get a roll of lint-free shop paper towels, a couple packs of interdental brushes from the local dollar store, a box of q-tips, and a box of round wood toothpicks. Use paper towels and q-tips wetted with solvent/thinner to clean the cup and needle, the interdental brushes to clean the passageways/tubes in the body, and use a wood toothpick whittled to a needle taper and soaked in thinner to clean the inside of the nozzle (don't use metal tools to clean the nozzle, as they might scratch it or flare the tip). Occasionally you'll need to inspect the needle tip or nozzle for gunk or damage, so you'll want a high-X pocket magnifier similar to this. Also a stick of wax-based lip balm to help the threads in the head assembly maintain a good air seal (apply a tiny amount to the male threads before reassembly after cleaning).

Get or make a spray-out pot. They're easy to DIY out of a margarine tub or soda/juice bottle, so although nice, it's not strictly necessary to buy one.

Get or make an airbrush stand/holder. This is not for storing the brush, but rather for having a way to set the brush down while in-in use without spilling the paint cup. Again: these are easy to DIY, so you don't have to splash cash on one unless you really feel like it.

Hope that helps!

u/Havok3c · 1 pointr/oilpen

Something like this filter not sure what micron to use smaller the better I believe

u/ARAR1 · 1 pointr/engineering

You need a pressure regulator.

Pressure is related to flow. So what happens to the gas in the tube is what will determine the actual pressure.

u/strongestboner · 1 pointr/Homebrewing
u/HOUbikebikebike · 1 pointr/cider

One thing i'd recommend is an in-line filter like one of these:

When you go to bottle it will catch all of the hops flakes that dissolve out of the pellet. It keeps your sediment levels low!

Also, you don't need to hop for that long...maybe 3-10 days. The aromatics leech out of the hops pretty quickly and if you leave them for too long, depending on the levels of alpha and beta acids, they may volatilize and escape through the airlock.

Everyone else is spot ounce in 5 gal, or between 5 and 6 grams per gallon should do the trick.

If you're using a yeast that promotes apply estery flavors, something like Citra hops works great. For milder middle of the line flavors, Mosaic hops. Centennial is great for a strong, piney flavor. Or experiment with mixing them!