Best fire safety products according to redditors

A fire extinguisher. You probably won't ever use it, but if you do need it someday, it will be well worth the 20 bucks.

EDIT: Yes, you can get a decent one for the home for under $20.

EDIT PART 2: Aaaaahhhhh thanks for the gold! You just made my night! :D

This one is on sale on Amazon right now for 63% off, $20. It has a digital read out and good reviews. I just bought one. I know you have Prime, order it you lazy ass.

Vapes aren't actually vapor, they're aerosol. They actually sell aerosol sprays for testing smoke detectors and fire alarms.

That's why you keep a fire extinguisher in your car. It's really an awesome idea. The dry chemical kind are what they use at race tracks most of the time, and I can say from experience your car will usually run after a bit of cleaning (had a fuel line barb work its way out of a carburetor).

My one buddy told me, "You'll never think you need it until you're watching your car burn and standing there with your dick in your hand."

Yikes. Always make sure your hot water heater and furnace are properly vented to outside, and remember that a $25 device can save your life. For maximum peace of mind, place a carbon monoxide detector in the main living area and in each bedroom.

Have an up to date fire extinguisher in your kitchen.

Also, have fire extinguishers in your hall closet, bedroom, car, girlfriend’s car, etc.

Give them to family as stocking stuffers

They are small and cheap and can stop a shitty situation from turning catastrophic.

Glad he caught it in time! I have a heat triggered fire extinguishing ball in my grow closet for this very purpose- it may be what your friend needs:

Elide Fire Ball, Self Activation Fire Extinguisher, 2018 New Version , Boat Extinguisher, Car Extinguisher, Fire Safety Product, Elide, 5 Year warranty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BC653JC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_X5ijDbFS3CZX8

It may ruin your plants, but if it saves the house...

Just put one of these in the corner of the enclosure ;)

https://www.amazon.com/Fire-Extinguisher-Ball-self-activation-device/dp/B07D42CXWV

This is what happens when water instantly turns to steam and explodes out with a surprising amount of force taking the oil and flames with it.. Cover it and remove it from heat if you can. Small oil fires can be put out with baking soda, and extinguish large oil fires with a powder fire extinguisher if need be..

Also, if you don't have one, even a small to medium sized powder fire extinguisher, something.. Go buy a a huge box of baking soda right now, set it someplace accessible, and be ready to tear that open if need be.. Then go on amazon and get yourself a powder fire extinguisher for probably sub $30 (or hey, when you need to make free shipping) and be safer for it.

Then, never, ever, ever! Put water or some other liquid that boils at a lower temperature than oil, into hot oil and not be anything other than ready to put out a grease fire.. Keep a small baking soda by your stove.. Why not.. Be ready.. Adding wine to that chicken you've been frying in a little too much oil? Oh no, you burned your house down, no you didn't, cause you had baking soda at the ready!

Oh no, it's not enough! Not in your house, you're the Elsa of baking soda! Tear off the top and let it go! Cover the flames and everything around it, let's face it, you're cleaning the kitchen at this point. And besides, the baking soda helps absorb the oil that is now everywhere.. Get a mop, it's time to get cleani--

But wait, the beast, she crackles forth.. But you.. You are prepared.. You must attack the source! No problem! For you are armed with the mightiest and the highest reviewed of all the $30 amazon powder fire extinguishers.. Go forth, pull pin, and let rip at the center of all the flames, the source, and start working your way out.. Cover everything..

If it burns, shoot it..

Smile, victory is yours.. Call your insurance, call your local cleanup crew.. Laugh after realizing you no longer have to clean the kitchen..

TL;DR Get a big box of baking soda and be ready to pour it everywhere! You're fighting a grease fire and IT WILL BURN DOWN YOUR ENTIRE LIFE, if you let it. Also get the best reviewed $30 powdered fire extinguisher on amazon, right now.. Seriously, you'll probably save lives with this some day, or not quite burn down as much of your house...

Oh look! A $30 Highly-reviewed Kidde FA110 Multi-Purpose Powder Fire Extinguisher and a ridiculously long hyperlink so you notice it and buy one because, Hey!!!!!! This!!! THIS WILL SAVE YOUR LIFE and your most valued possessions!!!! And, free shipping over $35... BUY IT! BE SAFE!

Also, for those who have them, you rock, but you should check now to see if yours has expired and replace if need be!!!

AND ABOVE ALL ELSE!! If a fire ever seems out of control, or starts out that way, call the fire department IMMEDIATELY, and fight the fire if you can, flee if you can't.. Your life is more valuable than your belongings.

This one isn't cheap, and it's not what the OP suggested, but it's the bare minimum I would suggest.

Unless you've got proper (also annually refreshed) training, anything less than 5 pounds is bordering on insufficient. Especially in a panic situation.

Source: Industrial firefighter.

I know you're going to get a Carbon Monoxide detector, but I also recommend (just to keep things compact) getting a combination CO/Smoke detector. You can get multi-packs as well to put in different areas of your house. You should have one in the bedroom, hallway, kitchen, etc... depending on size of the place.

https://smile.amazon.com/First-Alert-Detector-Carbon-Monoxide/dp/B00KMHXFAI/

Another lifehack since people are worried they won't have a large baking sheet or anything to cover the fire with.


Buy a damn fire extinguisher to keep around the house; they're $20.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004Y6V5CI/ref=twister_B00I0BSD5K

they are very cheap.

Yes, [actually, they do](First Alert AF400 Tundra Fire Extinguisher Aerosol Spray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001229JCU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fNC.ybECQDXHV).

You save 40$ off a normal PSU price, just enough budget to buy this bad boy! (To go with your PSU) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VBGG5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_appbBbS59MMSG

Only one way to find out..

But seriously, get yourself a full size all purpose extinguisher..

$34 with Prime

I standardized on Z-Wave and Zigbee stuff - more Z-Wave than Zigbee. I used a SmartThings hub in this house, and so I used these sensors. I put one under each sink in the house, plus one near the main stack in the basement and the hot water heater.

If I could, I'd also recommend adding a couple of HA CO/smoke sensors. Again, z-wave for me, but I used this First Alert model. If I get smoke or CO at any time, it alerts my phone, and I'm a huge fan of that.

One note on those smoke detectors - some places have highly specific laws on what smoke detectors you must legally have, and these do not match code where I live. I run double sets - one set that matches code and then this set for the HA side. It's not a problem to have more smoke/CO detectors, and it's a cheap and potentially life or property saving upgrade.

$120 on Amazon. The competitor is $40.

Kidde FA110 Multi Purpose Fire Extinguisher 1A10BC, 1 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002ND64/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7f8pDbN8QV060

$19.99

I just want him and everyone who takes advantage of musicians/artists to go away.

Or be a human being and take some of the money you are collecting/stealing and buy $200 worth of fire prevention equipment from Amazon. A fire extinguisher is $20. A fire blanket is $12. Our safety is a collective effort. Nobody has any excuses especially those who are profiting from this community.

In short: yes! You do so by introducing a chain breaking chemical. Others have mentioned halon as a good example of this. So is Tundra which in a little aerosol can fire extinguisher with a potassium containing chemical that works by the same mechanism: breaking the chemical reaction chain.

If you look up the combustion chemical reaction, it is generally something like CH4 + 2O2 = CO2 + 2H2O (roughly for methane). However, that reaction is just the net sum of what's really happening.

Big clunky CH4 molecules dancing around don't commonly bump into other big O2 molecules. And when they do, it's highly unlikely everything will get rearranged perfectly to make CO2 and H2O. Instead, a bunch of little steps happen in the middle. A chain reaction of steps called a reaction mechanism. We know this by understanding rates of reactions.

Since we understand roughly how reaction rates work, we also know which ones are fast and therefore happen much more often. In combustion, the first ones are called INITIATION REACTIONS where those big clunky molecules break apart (decompose or dissociate by some ignition event like a spark) into smaller, more reactive stuff. An example is O2 = 2O. One oxygen molecule makes two oxygen radicals. That means one molecule moving around hitting things is not two running around hitting things over twice as often.

Now we have some big molecules and radicals dancing around. Something to note is that those molecules we start and end with (CH4, H2O, CO2, H2O) are relatively stable compared to those radicals like H, OH, O, etc. Those radicals are unstable forms of this atoms so they want to bump into other molecules, make or break bonds, and reach something more stable.

So when a big more stable molecule runs into one of those little reactive radicals we make more things happen. An example is O2 + H = OH + O. So we started with one unstable radical and ended up with two unstable radicals running off to react with more molecules. This is called a BRANCHING REACTION and it's how the chain reaction accelerates. There are also PROPAGATION REACTIONS where you start and end with the same number of radicals so you rearranged bonds but generally speaking didn't speed up or slow down he overall chain reaction.

Finally we have TERMINATION REACTIONS where we end up with fewer radicals than we start with. An example would be H + OH + M = H2O + M (ignore that M for now, just means the reaction needs a helper molecule to proceed so it will happen more at higher pressures). We start with two reactive radicals and end with one.

This is where halon or that Tundra stuff come in. They react very fast with radicals that develop early in the reaction, like Halon with H radicals, so you overwhelm the chain reaction with TERMINATION REACTIONS before it can keep going. Kill the chain and you kill the combustion, even with fuel oxidizer and heat there. As long as that radical scavenging chemical remains to keep breaking the chain, the combustion won't proceed.

Google combustion reaction mechanisms to learn more.

Source: firefighter and getting PhD on combustion.

Edit: punctuation

Gonna risk the /hailcorporate tag but now is a good a time as any to stock up on CO detectors. MA code mandates at least one for every floor in your house (seems a bit overkill since CO doesn't rise) but one near your furnace is a bare minimum

Kidde KN-COPP-B-LPM

https://www.amazon.com/Kidde-Battery-Operated-Carbon-Monoxide-Digital/dp/B004Y6V5CI

That is the one I have in my car and my house.

I got one after a father and son in my city died while waiting for their car to warm up. They didn't know they had a leak in their exhaust and the CO doesn't smell like exhaust. It has no smell.

I got about 60 of the 1 lb canisters and 2 of the 20 lb tanks in one of these deck boxes:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rubbermaid-73-gal-Medium-Deck-Box-with-Seat-FG5F2100OLVSS/202523344

The two 20 lbs go in a corner each, and then the 1 lbs are arranged around them on the floor. Then I cut a piece of plywood in the shape of the inside of the deck box, with cutouts for the two 20 lb tanks, to make a second story which is laid on top of the first layer of 1 lb canisters. Then I get a second layer of the 1 lbs in there, and it's about 60 of those plus 2 x 20 lbs, makes approx 100 lbs total, give or take. It's been a couple of years now, and they seem to last very well in there. I also keep some adaptors and hoses so I can hook the 20 lbs up to the Little Buddy heaters and the propane stove etc. I keep the deck box on the lower deck behind the house in a spot under the upper deck so that it doesn't get a lot of direct sunlight. I think it's probably better if it doesn't get too hot. Also, if anything leaks, then propane is heavier than air, so you want the path to be away from the house, not down into your crawlspace or basement. Finally I recently got a "WARNING PROPANE" sticker (from Amazon) for the firemen should there ever be a fire around my house. They should know about that amount of propane, for obvious reasons.

One last thing: Consider getting a couple of battery powered carbon monoxide detectors, just for peace of mind, e.g.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Y6V5CI/

I imagine something similar to these: https://www.amazon.com/Extinguisher-Suppression-Device-Safety-Product/dp/B01JVXFQ6E

Here you go: Kidde KN-COPP-3 Nighthawk Plug-In Carbon Monoxide Alarm with Battery Backup https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002N86A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.NFMAb3B1N75P

Fire extinguishers come in different types. A dry chemical extinguisher rated for A-B-C (3 most common) would handle nearly anything you may need in a standard house. Probably get one in the 5lb range. You'll probably want more than one depending on size of the house, one in the kitchen, one in the garage, for example

[example, but not necessarily a recommendation] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000VBGG5Q/ref=zg_bs_13400621_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HCP9YEQ2TPNR3DZ86MPS)

Accidental fires are how you learn! Thats why you should make sure you pick up some of these bad boys :)

http://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-AF400-2-Extinguisher-Aerosol/dp/B002U0KGDY/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1343421103&sr=1-7

Probably one of these too

You want a Mr Heater Buddy, man. Easy to use, safe, cheap to run, and it will keep you warm in a space much bigger than a van. Highly recommended.

EDIT: for safety, make sure you install a carbon monoxide detector.

I run mine unattended, but I have a fire ball and an automatic fire extinguisher to snuff the flames in the event something goes wrong. The fireball is nice because you can put it just about anywhere, including inside an enclosure if you plan for it.

Fire Ball - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JVXFQ6E/

Automatic Extinguisher - http://www.urbangardensupply.net/safety-equipment/flame-defender-extinguisher-2-kg/

Just want to throw this out there, for $50 you can get an explosive gas alarm. As easy to install as a night light.

Home Depot

Amazon

It’s different than a carbon monoxide alarm, that detects a byproduct of burning the natural gas that can kill you. Many smoke detectors will also detect carbon monoxide. The explosive gas sensor is a metal oxide sensor designed to detect natural gas (methane) or propane.

They are pretty cheap though. I bought a house in Firestone last year and you can get a portable explosive gas detector for inside of fifty bucks - no experience with this one but it's on Amazon for $37 they also sell one that plugs into the wall and also detects carbon monoxide

Biggest problem with the gas straight out of the well is that it has no detectable odors - after it's processed the refinery adds methyl mercaptan to make it stink like sulphur. So you would know if your natural gas line to your furnace or water heater were leaking, but without a detector you probably wouldn't know about something odorless silently seeping into your basement.

I personally have to wonder if the "problems" that were being repaired by installing a new water heater were directly caused by excess heavier gas displacing air enough to cause problems with the pilot light on the water heater.

You can get one for $15 online. Worth it.

I just bought this one after reading this. (Not an affiliate link, but using the smile URL for the charity donation.)

Smoke detector might give you lots of false alarms based on the nature of how they work and that dust collection isn’t 100%.

You put a smoke detector in there and you will end up taking it out. There are however heat detectors, they can be a set temp or a rate-of-rise type and they don’t care about dust for activation. Just as an example.


Someone smarter than me could probably tell you how you could to integrate it with a raspberry pi and a relay, or maybe even a more simple method??

Конкретно то что на видео - Elide Fire https://www.amazon.com/Elide-Fire-Activation-Extinguisher-warranty/dp/B07BC653JC

Well yes, but actually no.

In all seriousness, the vast majority of machines shouldn't present problems if you don't start opening up cases and poking around and making ill-advised modifications.

Major brand name machines are generally pretty reliable if run in-spec. There are occasional issues (See the recent controversy with the Ender 3's bum connectors) but for the most part the risk is minimal.

That said, it's a mechanical device that works with high temperatures and generally flammable material, it's inevitable that there are going to be problems.

I have my printer set up with a metal beam over the bench and I stuck one of these above the printer. I highly recommend them.

A lot of people like these but they're not a great idea because of how they function. They explode and throw their fire suppressant all over the area but the explosion is basically just a small firecracker and can throw burning debris around a room.

The overhead ones that I posted will just pop open and dump their contents down so they're perfect for positioning over a printer.

You could print a holder for a couple of these and suspend them over an enclosed printer.

All of this is stored in the trunk of my Jeep strapped down in the black tote pictured. I didn't get all of these things at Amazon, but tried to find a link to purchase everything.

Not pictured is a rollbar mounted fire extinguisher

This isn't specifically for camping, just what I have on me at all times.

Starting at the top right:

• Three pack of road triangles
  
  
• Solar power bank
  
  
• Leatherman Super Tool 300 in black oxide
  
  
• Cyber Power inverter
  
  
• Bungee cords
  
  
  
• Ratchet and random sockets
  
  
  
• Ratchet strap
  
  
  
• Jumper cables
  
  
  
• 30,000 tow strap
  
  
  
• Target brand first aid kit
  
  
  
• Coast px20 with red beam
  
  
  
• Coghlans right angle flashlight
  
  
  
• Eton solar/ crank radio and light
  
  
  
• Tire pressure gauge
  
  
  
• Digital tire pressure gauge
  
  
  
• Military issue folding shovel
  
  
  
• 7 ton shackle permanently borrowed from my ship
  
  
  
• 75ft of paracord
  
  
• Harbor Freight wrench set
  
  
• Harbor Freight torque wrench
  
  
• 20'x20' blue tarp
  
  
  

Just buy a Propane/Natural gas detector and plug it in near the kitchen area. It will help you avoid any situation like this in the future. Something such as this may work https://www.amazon.com/Nighthawk-Monoxide-Explosive-Model-KN-COEG-3/dp/B0002EVNJ6/

Carbon monoxide can be produced by any fire. If you are heating anything by "gas" in your house be it propane, butane or whatever, you should have a carbon monoxide monitor. You can find them for about $20-30 dollars. amazon link to a CO detector.

Symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning include:
-Dull headache
-Weakness
-Dizziness
-Nausea
-Vomiting
-Shortness of breath
-Confusion
-Blurred vision
-Loss of consciousness

I admit a couple of people to the hospital a year who get carbon monoxide poisoning. It's never pretty and the treatment is limited. Hyperbaric oxygen is one of the treatments but many hospitals do not have this option so they resort to putting a mask on the person who inhaled the poison till they can call other hospitals till they find one that has the hyperbaric oxygen treatment.

Even if you have a "gas" furnace, water heater, stove or brewery in your house you should have one of these. The molecule has no smell and by the time you notice the effects its usually either too late and its very advanced.

Buddy, sorry, you are right it is $44 for a ZWave smoke/CO that can do everything you said:

First Alert 2-in-1 Z-Wave Smoke Detector & Carbon Monoxide Alarm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KMHXFAI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_89B2BbM9YCP3R

But hey, if you really love the Protect, buy it, just don’t be disillusioned by it. It’s not special and it’s way overpriced.

There's a compressed dry powder version now. It uses a small explosive charge.

Jeez, yeah, theyre not expensive. And check with your renters/homeowners insurance, sometimes they give you a discount for having one.

https://smile.amazon.com/Kidde-FA110-Purpose-Extinguisher-1A10BC/dp/B00002ND64/

> wanted to be able to run fridge and laptop for a week at least before on solar before I have to turn on the engine and drive to my next spot

A normal laptop (10-90W), a small fridge (100-400W), and a room heater (900-1500W+) are orders of magnitude apart. The only time I've heard of anyone using an electric heater when camping was when he had an over-abundance of gasoline-electrical generator output, but one probably wouldn't want to run a generator at night due to noise.

> do you think these buddy heaters are save enough for children to be in the same room

A lot of people use propane heaters in RVs. Of course having a CO (Carbon Monoxide) detector and a fire extinguisher on hand is a must, even if burning a single candle. That aside, the most important thing is to assure adequate ventilation. Extra super-safety measure: set an alarm every 2 hours the first night to walk around the room and make sure the air is fine, nothing is overheating, etc.

When it comes to the possibility of leaks, propane is generally safer than natural gas, because: (1) You can smell it. (2) Propane vapors are heavier than air, so being higher off the floor is an added safety benefit (in addition to being more heat-efficient). (3) Buddy Heaters self-ignite automatically, so there's no chance of turning on the gas and forgetting to light the flame. You can get a propane leak detector as well (a separate function from CO detection, but possible to have both in one device).

I don't know anything about kids, but I don't think they are inclined to touch things that are very obviously very hot. I guess using some sort of a cage (around the heater, I mean, not the kids) would add an extra level of safety...

It's very unlikely that anything goes wrong. But if it does, your tapestry would go up in flames, or you'd just pass in your sleep due to lack of oxygen.

Plenty of people do it, its still a gamble. Personally I'd get a nice carbon monoxide and gas alarm alarm if running a propane heater all night.

$30 - https://www.amazon.ca/First-Alert-CO400-Battery-Monoxide/dp/B000N8OYXI/

At the 2100ppm level the fire department measured an adult has over an hour to get out to clean air, a child has less, but that alarm would have certainly given a heads up, especially if you hear all of your neighbours having them go off in the hallway at the same time.

Good idea, but not how to execute. The smoke can actually damage the sensor.

Get this test spray instead.

This is what I have. I still recommend a 5 or 10 pound extinguisher for your primary one but this works in a pinch.

First Alert Fire Extinguisher | Tundra Fire Extinguishing Aerosol Spray, Pack of 2, AF400-2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002U0KGDY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HrC3DbJS0S8R8

https://www.amazon.com/Amerex-Chemical-Class-Extinguisher-Bracket/dp/B00F5CK9X6/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=5+lb+amerex&qid=1563373091&s=gateway&sr=8-4

They make ones for kitchens that avoid the nuisance trips. We replaced the one in our kitchen, and since we have it hasn't gone off even when broiling a steak in the oven. Before it would be triggered by even the slightest big of smoke/steam in the kitchen.

https://www.amazon.com/Kidde-P3010K-CO-Worry-Free-Photoelectric-Monoxide/dp/B00FHW7QRG

First Alert 2-in-1 Z-Wave Wireless Smoke Detector & Carbon Monoxide Alarm, Battery Operated https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KMHXFAI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7xj1CbEZY5MRX


Works off the my SmartThings hub.

Amazon has them for $40.
http://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-Z-Wave-Carbon-Monoxide/dp/B00KMHXFAI

I just installed 2 of these First Alert Z-Wave smoke and carbon monoxide combo models that are reporting battery level and alarm status.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KMHXFAI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

First Alert Z-Wave Smoke & Carbon Monoxide Detector

Sends me a text message if they go off when I am not home - I have 3 and they work good.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KMHXFAI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's great!

But, the rest of us aren't so confident about the Anet A8 seeing how there are multiple examples of them catching fire.

#1 2017

#2 2017

#3 2017

#4 2018

That's me taking 5 minutes. Actually I spent more time writing this than researching this. An exhaustive search would probably yield more and these are just the ones people are telling us about.

Maybe they can be made safe, but that needs to happen in the factory, not after the fact by the consumer who probably isn't an electrical engineer. You're not an electrical engineer are you?

Disclaimer: I'm not an expert. Take my advice at your own risk.

I don't know what's causing these fires. But, I've heard mention of mainboards and PSU's. You should probably take the task of heating off the mainboard and put it onto external mosfets for the hotend and the hotbed. You might also want to replace the factory power supply (PSU) with something more robust. As long as the A8 is 12 volts I'd probably suggest an ATX power supply conversion if you're handy with a soldering iron and feel confident you can do it. ATX power supplies come with a number of built-in safety features. Here's a wiki on choosing a PSU.

You might also want to add some basic fire suppression to your print area. This maybe would stop a fire, but it's not going to stop an electrical short creating heat and therefore acting as an ignition source. It might give you more time to react in the case that a fire does start.

Edit: I couldn't find the rating on the rangehood fire extinguisher so, this ball extinguisher that is ABC rated might be a better option if you can figure out how to suspend it above your printer which shouldn't be too hard as it comes with a metal stand.

I would definitely add a fire extinguisher nearby where you print.

Then add a fire alarm above your printer and in the adjacent room.

This is not just advice for you, but it's advice for anyone. I've done all three of the above suggestions. I've add the stove rangehood fire extinguisher. I've wall mounted a fire extinguisher in the adjacent room. I've also add two fire alarms, one above my printer and another in the adjacent room.

Be safe my friend and heed the warnings these multiple fires are broadcasting.

I was thinking about this today. But I had an idea. What if you made a holder for one of these at the top of the enclosure? https://www.amazon.com/Extinguisher-Suppression-Device-Safety-Product/dp/B01JVXFQ6E

If you're clever you could rig up an Arduino or Raspberry Pi as a smoke detector.

https://create.arduino.cc/projecthub/Aritro/smoke-detection-using-mq-2-gas-sensor-79c54a

Use a relay to control the power supply to the printer, if any smoke is detected the Arduino would immediately cut the power to the printer. At that point, the most critical thing is making sure there's minimal flammable material around the printer.

Alternatively, mount a fire ball above the printer in the enclosure. https://www.amazon.com/Extinguisher-Suppression-Device-Safety-Product/dp/B01JVXFQ6E

https://www.amazon.com/Extinguisher-Suppression-Device-Safety-Product/dp/B01JVXFQ6E

Some things I know I forgot:

• Fire Extinguishers. I had one in my one bedroom apartment in the kitchen, which was only about 10 steps away from anywhere else in the apartment. But houses are bigger, you need more. I keep one in the kitchen, garage and one in the basement near your electric panel and HVAC. Make sure the kitchen & garage ones are Class B. The basement one should be class C. I just played it save and bought these, they are class A,B & C.
  
• Light bulbs, your going to need so many more than your used to. My house has ceiling mounted lights in every room (not every house does). My house has over 48 light bulbs in it just for those ceiling mounted lights. I'm a huge fan of these light bulbs. Just a bit over $2 a bulb, very bright, nice clean daylight color and LED. Can't be beat.
  
• Also on the light bulb thing, think of any you need that aren't your standard bulb. Ceiling fans(Some use Candalabra size, some use normal), flood lights, etc etc. Personally I make sure every bulb in my house is the same color of light too. It really annoys me when I walk into a friends house and they have like 4 different color light bulbs in one room. That may just be my OCD though.
  
• You may need a basic tool box if you don't already have one. There isn't any more calling maintenance when a small job needs done. It's either you do it, or pay a handyman to do it for you. And you'll go broke paying a handyman for everything. YouTube will become your friend to learn things you don't know. You don't have to start off super fancy. An assortment of sizes of Philips and Flat Head Screwdrivers. Needle Nose and regular pliers. A socket set (get both standard and Metric). A hammer and rubber mallet. A level, a tape measure. Probably some allen wrenches. Some WD-40 and Duck Tape. That should get you started, you can pick up anything else when you actually need it. Check out estate sales and second hand stores. I've bought tons of great tools for pennies on the dollar. For example I just got an 8 foot aluminum level from a second hand store for $10 recently. The cheapest you can find those for new these days is $50.
  
• I've seen people meantion locks. I agree you should change them. That said, Kwikset makes a system called "smart key" where you can rekey your locks anytime yourself easily. I'd highly suggest those. That way if you ever need to change them, you just buy this and change the locks instead of physically having to change every door knob and dead bolt. Go ahead and keep one on hand.

Right. I have one that plugs into an outlet, with a battery backup, but my outlets are more toward floor level.

This is the one I have:
https://www.amazon.com/Kidde-KN-COPP-3-Nighthawk-Monoxide-Battery/dp/B00002N86A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1491400612&sr=8-2

You need to find one that has a reading I think.

I have two "Highest Priority" items. They seem to be two completely different things- but they are connected. You see, this is to keep my fake-face on.

As a female who wears makeup there is nothing more irritating than when you're doing whatever, you know, looking good.. and suddenly you look at your reflection in a window or something and you're like DAMN WHO LET MY REAL FACE OUT? And you gotta fix that! All that work you spent artfully painting on how your face looks to the public and within hours it's all faded and your eyeliner is halfway down your eyelids. In order to be able to fix it on-the-spot you're suddenly carrying around your whole makeup bag for touch-ups at dinner and when the occasional photographer walks by. Imagine you're out on a date with some hottie and you're like "hey sorry I have to go powder my nose", then you pick up your 3 gallon purse with every brush and gloss known to mankind (all only half-full, of course) and drag it off to the bathroom!

This is just safety standard to cool down after you look so hot for so long. (It can also be used as a blunt weapon to beat the hundreds of people you attract off of you)

^(Also, I am not confident in my baking/cooking abilities)

Edit: fixed first link thx Youjimbo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9WAQcQuARU8

Basically, the water instantly vaporizes into steam, and creates a steam + burning oil fireball.

Everyone should have one of these in their kitchen, just in case. They're a pain to buy from Amazon, though, because of the shipping restrictions. Every hardware store carries them.

Hi princessimpeach, I think this is mighty important. It has been in my Household wishlist since November and I really could have used it last week.

my lie? I'm named after a song by either Bob Dylan, Stevie Nicks, or Hall and Oates. You decide which one is the lie ;-)

You can get one for like $20 on Amazon

Maybe it's just because I am a mom, but my go-to recommendations are always the things you reach for at 3am and then kick yourself for not having had the foresight to own.

• An absolute must is a pack of 9 volt batteries. It seems like no matter how frequently you check or swap the batteries in your fire alarms they will sing the song of their people in the middle of the night annually.
  
  
• Basic First Aid Kit, and a well stocked medicine cabinet. You can buy a kit like the one I linked, but I prefer to just pick out each item individually. Think of the things you frequently pulled out of the medicine cabinet when you were still living with your parents and start there.
  
  
• A fire extenguisher is a good thing to have. While you are at it, get one for your car as well.
  
  
• Night Lights so you don't stub your toe in the middle of the night.
  
  I don't want to type a novel here, so I will stop. Just think of the things you reached for without thinking while growing up. Start with the things you will use most often and those that are needed for real emergencies and go from there. Hope this helps and congratulations!

It's this one here. Larger one doesn't look like it would fit. Kidde FA110 Multi Purpose Fire Extinguisher 1A10BC, 1 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002ND64/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sQTnzbXZHSZA1

A fire extinguisher and a first aid kit. The day of moving in to my first place I sliced my finger badly opening a box. Bleeding every where. Couldn't find a thing to wrap it with (cause hey moving) needed 4 stitches. Definitely wish I had a first aid kit then.

Also a base ball bat or a golf club near the door. Lol I just felt safer knowing I had something close by to defend myself with.

I like surprises :)

This is what I currently have two of
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002ND64/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

One is mounted on the rear roll bar, the other is underneath my driver seat, really wedged in there.

These are in a crate in the trunk:

• Collapsible shovel
  
• Mylar blankets
  
• road flares
  
• flashlights
  
• ponchos
  
• fix-a-flat
  
• fire extinguisher
  
• jumper cables
  
• Warning Triangles
  
• Compressor
  
• Duct tape
  
• First aid kit
  
• Large warm blanket
  
• Bottled water
  
• Granola bars
  
• Cat liter
  
• Paper towels
  
  These are located in the passenger cabin:
  
• paper towels
  
• A flashlight
  
• Multi-Tool
  
• Auto escape tool
  
• Tire pressure gauge
  
• knit gloves
  
  During winter I'll put an ice scraper and de-icer in the car/trunk. There are kits you can buy and add items as you see fit. Take the time (unlike me with the shovel) to understand how to use each item properly in an emergency situation. Also don't wait until you need to change a flat to learn how.

Removing trim (not me, just the video I used): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sR6Hv_o3YcU

Mounting bracket: http://amazon.com/gp/product/B00002NC0N

Extinguisher: http://amazon.com/gp/product/B00002ND64

Used a combination of #10 and 1/4" pan head fasteners, fender washers, normal washers, and nylon insert lock nuts and it feels rock solid.

Has anyone used an alarm like this one to detect gas? Won't help with the argon, but it would work for propane. I wonder if there is one that would send a text?

Looks great! Careful with propane in an enclosed space. Perhaps consider getting a CO and flammable gas detector maybe.

Could get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002EVNJ6/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_60_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YF6H53CQS681TN95DC88&dpPl=1&dpID=81tK5mgXK7L

That sensor will trip at 25% of the LEL (lower explosive limit) for methane, which should be plenty of warning.

Since the primary concern with natural gas is explosions, here are some things to keep in mind when placing the sensor:

1. You want it to be placed as close to the gas source as possible. This is because higher concentrations will be near the source of gas before it gets diluted into the rest of the room.
   
2. You want to place the sensor low to the ground. This is because natural gas is heavier than air, so it will tend to collect and travel near the ground.

It honestly depends where you live, such as a tenants union that you can research and pursue follow up. For example, this is Seattles: http://www.tenantsunion.org/en . I think it comes down to how much effort you want to deal with this. Do you have natural gas coming in to your place? If not it really may not be worth it. If you're very concerned, you need immediately remedy, and the landlord is dragging their feet, here's one from Amazon from $20 https://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-CO400-Battery-Monoxide/dp/B000N8OYXI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1475004662&sr=8-2&keywords=c02+detector

I replaced the smoke detector in my kitchen with a Kidde Heat Detector.

Kidde HD135F

No more alarms when baking or cooking.

Anyone with a fireplace should buy this for their house:

http://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-CO615-Monoxide-Battery/dp/B000Q5VMKG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463586329&sr=8-2&keywords=monoxide

I am bringing a grill to the festival. I know I need to buy a fire extinguisher. From your knowledge, is this one going to be suitable for their standards?

That's why I keep this in my game room: https://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-AF400-Extinguishing-Aerosol/dp/B001229JCU

Very good post ! and you broke some very common sense rules. Smoke detector next to the printer is a must with a fire extinguisher close by! I print overnight and remotely with octoprint , have a wifi cam on my printer and a wifi power outlet so i can shutdown remotely . In the process now of rebuilding my cr10s control box to go into a PC case with a safer PC ATX power supply and better mosfets , better wiring . You really do have to check every single part of a new printer and make sure every screw is tight and inspect all parts about every month , its a must ! this is how you find bad wires, heat damage and faulty loose parts. The quality of these printers coming from china is always suspect , they don't have the same rules about safety and quality of electrical parts , especially these cheap power supplies.

these a good to have next to a printer .

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002U0KGDY/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B002U0KGDY&pd_rd_wg=gjVoO&pd_rd_r=H3NFRFDNXWWC786AGKFA&pd_rd_w=lT4EK

for unattended printing , i have been considering the fire extinguisher ball

https://www.amazon.com/Extinguisher-Suppression-Device-Safety-Product/dp/B01JVXFQ6E/ref=pd_sim_469_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01JVXFQ6E&pd_rd_r=HG0JX9DBWW38VCY9K200&pd_rd_w=9YkPE&pd_rd_wg=OpFhs&psc=1&refRID=HG0JX9DBWW38VCY9K200

These are small enough to carry around in your backpack. I'll have one with me at all times.

> The elevated temperatures of the cast iron is supposed to also allow a more complete combustion of the propane, which further reduces the CO concern.

Unburnt hydrocarbons (which could make the food taste bad) may be a bigger concern than CO. However, it doesn't hurt to be safe, so you can always get a CO detector if it adds to your piece of mind.

I use a battery powered household one. Probably not as good as an aviation specific one, but it's $20 and better than nothing.

https://www.amazon.com/Kidde-Battery-Operated-Carbon-Monoxide-Digital/dp/B004Y6V5CI/

> Speaking as an electrician

Thanks very much! That is good to hear coming from a professional. I was proud of my little workaround hack, but I have never read about it anywhere else so I wondered if I was missing something important... but it really does work (I've used it during a couple of outages now). One useful thing to do is to use a little label maker to label the relevant outlets inside the house with "GENERATOR", just to make clear that they aren't usually going to be working. It's also good to make sure that whatever extension cords you get for coming from the generator to the house inlets has a round end for where it's going into the inlet. Some extension cords have the additional tab sticking up which makes it hard or impossible to fit into the inlet socket. Kind of hard to describe, but you'd know exactly what I mean if you see the inlet. Unfortunately the ones I got don't seem to be available any more on Amazon, the product page has gone away, but they looked a lot like these:

https://www.amazon.com/ParkPower-Marinco-150BBI-RV-Charger-125-Volt/dp/B000NV0V8C/

And the extension cords for generator to inlet are these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IAXSW/

Notice the female end of the extension cord is round, so it'll fit inside the inlet socket. I think I have the 100 foot and another 50 foot of the 10 ga, for getting from the generator on the rear deck to the two different inlets on the house. The garage one is a bit further away, toward the front of the house, so I need the 100' for that. Usually I'd try not to run so long, but when running the generator in an emergency I'd much prefer for it to be hidden in the rear of the house, not visible to the road. Being 10 ga gives me a bit more room to play with 100' length without losing too much power to the cord.

Other than those, it's a pretty standard job that anybody who's a little bit handy can do - you might also need a 1 7/8" hole saw for the inlet, assuming you have wood walls (we have cedar siding). I used something like 10 or 12 ga house wiring between the wall - I think it might be 10 ga since I remember hemming and hawing on which to use, I believe I went heavier just to be on the safe side. It's a bit intimidating for a non-professional to work with wiring stuff up, but since it's not connected to the actual house wiring, that takes some of the fear out. Just have to make sure you get all the right wires in the right places (not too difficult) and tighten everything up. Also a little bit stressful hacking holes in your exterior house wall, but once it's all sealed up again it's pretty cool knowing you can now get power inside without having to leave the window or door open.

I also have a Kryptonite Stronghold anchor in the back yard next to the deck, for chaining the generators up while they are running, so nobody can just pick them up and run off (a downside of having portable generators is that they are, well, portable):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LF903M/

I dug a hole and then filled it with high stress concrete, then left it to dry for a week or two, then drilled the holes for the bolts and installed the anchor. For chain, I used the strongest stuff I could find at Home Depot. The padlock likewise - just the most beefy, secure one I could find. On the generators themselves, I have installed the security addition to the handle:

https://www.amazon.com/Honda-63230-Z07-010AH-EU2000i-Generator-Deterrent/dp/B004DQY6B6/

This doesn't make it 100% secure, but it's better than just having the plastic handle which is easily broken. Security is a matter of layers - you don't depend on anything being 100%, but you hope that everything will serve to either deter or else slow the thieves down enough so that either they don't try, or else you will be alerted in time to stop them.

Finally, I have a couple of failed circuit alarms, which go off when power is lost:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0077Q9NC6/

I figure these could be on the extension bar inside the house while the generator is in use, then if it goes off or is being stolen then I will get an alert when they unplug the extension cord. I am using one of these alarms in the garage now, for the chest freezer so I'll know if that circuit trips out for whatever reason (avoid thawed out freezer, never fun).

Anyway, hope that helps anyone else who might be thinking about a similar setup - the Honda EU2000i is a great little generator (I also have the Companion), and with a little forethought you can make it much easier to use in your house in emergencies. Oh, and one last thing - I also have a large folding plastic table, which can be used to put over the generator if it's raining outside when you need to use it. Obviously the generator can't be too near the house, because of risk of carbon monoxide, so being outside puts the generator at risk of exposure to the elements. One of those folding tables, you can get from any department store, is useful for putting the generator under something. If the rain is especially heavy, I can put an additional tarp over the table, which can also cover two sides, and a couple of cinder blocks makes it ok in the wind.

Incidentally, this is a good battery powered CO detector, great for emergencies if you need to run a Buddy heater inside the house, or make sure the generator exhaust isn't blowing inside:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Y6V5CI/

Just installed mine a few weeks ago. I haven't ran my heater with it yet though to see how much venting will be appropriate as I live in Phx and it's already heating up haha. But yea I have a mr heater buddy and hear they are great. I always keep a few books on hand. Couple traveling books (kerouac/hemingway/etc), something spiritual for when I'm in the woods (tao te ching) haha, something about astronomy, music theory, shit I can learn from.

its like a smoke detector, just stick it in there around head level :) Mine sits on counter near my bed.

I usually get the Kidde combo detectors. However, the lithium versions seem to have more complaints than the replaceable battery versions. Have installed those in two houses and knock on wood no issues. https://www.amazon.com/Kidde-P3010K-CO-Worry-Free-Photoelectric-Monoxide/dp/B00FHW7QRG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518454513&sr=8-1&keywords=P3010K-CO&dpID=41v4MMQ%252BP-L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

EDIT: Man, the reviews are bad on the 10 year models. Not sure why they are so bad, as the wired w/replaceables are 4-5 star reviews.

Can't turn it off, but it can be silenced: https://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-Z-Wave-Detector-Monoxide/dp/B00KMHXFAI

First Alert (very common manufacturer of detectors) has a zwave alarm for $39 on amazon. I think contractor grade alarms are $10, so not a huge cost....at least compared to going with Nest.

I lost everything when my house burned down completely, so I'm a bit more paranoid about it than the avg. person. Fire marshal said that it had started hours before it was reported (I lived in area with 1/2 acre lots, so neighbors weren't exactly close, but weren't far either). Now I have the option to call a neighbor and ask them to go check on things if I get an alert.

https://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-Z-Wave-Detector-Monoxide/dp/B00KMHXFAI/

Well, there is of course the Nest Protect, which is wifi-based. No web interface, and requires their app to set up. It can be configured out of the box to email you alerts, and the alert settings are configurable (email vs text vs app notification, and for which alerts/conditions).

There is also the First Alert Smoke/CO Combo, which is Z-Wave based. Again, no web interface. You would rely on your hub for configuring your notifications.

I'm not

This is the smoke detector I got https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KMHXFAI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I have this for the plug https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073GV2PQY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

This hooks into smartthings. For my Google Home stuff I made a video showing how to turn your speakers into a doorbell. But it works the same way when you want to make an alarm for your smoke detector. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WYdvZVI7KFA

I gave up on these. I took all of them out and replaced them with combo Smoke / CO2 detectors that are linked to my SmartThings hub as part of my home automation. I can now see the battery status in real time as well as silence alarms. I also get notifiers to my smartphone so if "something" happens while I'm not home I know about it.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KMHXFAI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have two First Alert Z-Wave smoke/CO detectors - 30% of the Nest price with essentially the same functionality.

The SmartThings "Notify Me When" SmartApp can send SMS messages to any phone worldwide when any smoke alarm triggers.

I happened to see this while I was browsing around on Tindie the other day. You might be interested. https://www.tindie.com/products/niujl123/shut-down-3d-printer-by-smoke-detector/

I like the enthusiasm but honestly it's probably easier and safer to use existing solutions: put one of those extinguisher bombs on top of the printer (eg. https://www.amazon.com/Extinguisher-Suppression-Device-Safety-Product/dp/B01JVXFQ6E ) which should handle the fire and wake the neighborhood at the same time, and make sure your smoke alarms batteries are good.

Yeah, I'll probably look into a cutoff as well.

>Something like the AFO Fireball

Holy fuck, this thing?!?

>when it comes into contact with fire and disperses non-toxic chemicals to extinguish the flames in an area with a radius ranging between 86 to 107 square feet.

This exploding in an enclosed structure of approximately 8 cubic feet would definitely put out any fire. It'd probably blow out the enclosure as well, but hey, no fire.

I might see if there's a smaller one. Definitely seems more useful than the stovetop one.

EDIT: Interesting thought though, if you mounted the AFO ball with a 3D printed plastic mount to the top of an enclosure, the heat would probably melt the plastic enough to drop the ball directly onto the fire before the fire got big enough to ignite it normally. Putting it out earlier.

Fire Extinguisher Ball on Amazon.

Here is the one I got. It comes with a little stand that I just zip-tied on top of my printer. It's basically a ball wrapped in a fuse with a fire-cracker and extinguishing powder inside. Flames touch the fuse and the thing explodes (small, safe, youtubers have set them off in their hands) and sprays fire extinguishing powder everywhere.

Lights, fans, cooling, heating all contribute to your amperage pulled and this is the number the breaker uses to determine overload. Running a 5x5 space with 2 QB + COB+smaller lights on my veg space + intake and exhaust fans+ pumps etc and am pulling 800 to 1000 watts at any one time about 8-9 amps on a 15 amp breaker. I also have an AC and dehumidifier unit which pulls 8-10 amps by itself and there fore must go on another circuit. I could not run all that unless I split it up.

My point is don't underestimate TOTAL usage by just assuming lights are the only draw and yes buy a kill-a-watt meter it is very useful if you have any doubts. Also be sure the breaker you think it is is the one that it actually are using by plugging something into it and shutting the breaker off.

It is possible to do what you want on 10 but for me that would be cutting it close depending on peripherals. You can also tap into that 220v? dryer oulet but that is a longer topic.

Fire is a real concern for growers. I read an article on it last night but cant find it now but I am wanting to buy one of these now https://www.amazon.com/Extinguisher-Suppression-Device-Safety-Product/dp/B01JVXFQ6E/

Interesting. This might be useful to mount above the 3d printer with one of these in case a fire ever broke out.

fire suppression ball

Interesting! Wonder how well they perform in an enclosed area like an RV or room. A fire extinguisher directs the chemical directly at where the user aims it. This is beneficial that the user won't inhale whatever chemicals are being deployed. The AFO fire ball does a 360 so it hits everything, which has its benefits, but I'm guessing you end up inhaling a lot of this product.

Amazon link to the AFO: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JVXFQ6E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LNN9ybY2MW84W

Obviously the lack of fire is the best option in these scenarios, in my non fire professional opinion.

These remind me of the fire ropes too, can't find the link right now though.

Edit found the link to BlazeCut, doesn't appear on Amazon any more for some reason tho: https://jogrusa.com/products/blazecut-fire-suppression-system

This is what I had come up with a few months ago, which will do what you're suggesting, but without the extra electronics. The comments there have the model of smoke alarm I used - it specifically has to have 120V integrated relays.

There's a couple options for fire suppression, this being another

1. Octoprint and a webcam and I check on things regularly during the day
   
2. 18” ceramic floor tiles from Lowes (fireproof) that my printers sit on
   
3. Fire retardant enclosure (mine is made from some fire resistant drywall I had from another project.
   
   I’ve also considered sticking a “fireball” in the enclosure but haven’t done so yet.
   AFO Fire Ball, ABC Fire Extinguisher, Fire Suppression Device, Fire Safety Product With Sign https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JVXFQ6E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_bcEWCbS7QVAF7
   
   Oh and of course a regular inspection of the connectors both outside and inside the “control box”

Your comment prompted me to price-check fire extinguishers on amazon and I found this.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JVXFQ6E/ref=s9_acsd_zwish_hd_bw_buE73_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_r=7MYRX1RQZM393T3P17AP&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=a76c4107-ed53-5b69-8565-947784193630&pf_rd_i=13400621

I got super excited until I found out the first part of the title was the opposite of what it sounds like.

I like it raw like u/overlyapologeticguy

Protection: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01LTICQYE/?coliid=I2BXJ3ECA86AFL&colid=5JSIIC863OTV&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it (currently $21.99 with prime)

AFO Fireball Automatic Fire... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077LVMGJ4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Any thoughts on mounting an Elide Fire Ball in the engine bay?

https://www.amazon.com/Elide-Fire-Activation-Extinguisher-warranty/dp/B07BC653JC

Glad that you're all right! Yeah, CO is very scary because you won't know what hit you until it's too late. Get at least one for each floor of your house, particularly the basement. This is the model I have in my house. It's pricier than those that are battery only, but after having a few CO alarms scare the shit out of me with their beeping (which was just to indicate that the battery is low), I prefer those that can be plugged in, AND have a numeric counter so I'll know whether it's really CO or just the the backup battery that needs to be replaced.

Un-shortened URL: https://www.amazon.com/Nighthawk-Operated-Monoxide-Digital-KN-COPP-3/dp/B00002N86A

The Kidde Nighthawk has a nice LED readout you can see from across the room.

AC powered with a 9V battery backup.

You should really invest in some carbon monoxide detectors.

wow brings back some memories, we used to have this https://www.amazon.com/Kidde-KN-COPP-3-Nighthawk-Monoxide-Battery/dp/B00002N86A/ref=pd_sbs_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0KB8PPW6RE4FYF346NZR
in an old house I lived in and it went off once when a neighbor was doing construction and had a large generator running all day

For your own safety you should have a carbon monoxide detector in your residence. Even if the apparent complex will not pay for it. Under $30 is worth the peace of mind.
I recommend the type that plugs in to the wall, like this one.
https://www.amazon.com/Kidde-KN-COPP-3-Nighthawk-Monoxide-Battery/dp/B00002N86A/ref=lp_495272_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1479592679&sr=1-1

Get a deep fry thermometer that clamps onto the side of the pan. Don't let the oil get hotter than 375. At that temperature, canola oil will not flash.
Use a pan that has a metal lid. In the unlikely event that an attended pot that never exceeds 375 catches fire, put the lid on to smother the fire.
Make sure your potatoes (or whatever) are dry before you put them into the pot, add them slowly so you can stop if the oil starts to boil over. If the oil does boil over and catch fire, use your handy fire extinguisher
.

Amazon.
And read up on this:
https://www.osha.gov/doc/outreachtraining/htmlfiles/extmark.html

Brand is less important than having one meant for the type of fire you're going to put out.
If you order that one, please don't use it on people.

the wikipedia article on the topic is really informative.

A fire extinguisher and a basic first aid kit. Two things that EVERYBODY should have in their car. It could save a life.

This fire extinguisher. Seriously, I looked around my house a couple days ago, and realized I didn't have one at all. It is now a definite need for me, and I really want it as a result. It is literally a must have.

My username is initials and age when I made my first account using that username!

Looks like Amazon has one for $20: https://www.amazon.com/Kidde-FA110-Purpose-Extinguisher-1A10BC/dp/B00002ND64/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491037355&sr=8-1&keywords=fire+extinguisher

Are you okay? Is the food okay?

It seldom snows where I live. So I'd make a snowman out of dirt/mud, then spray him with a fire extinguisher to make him white, fluffy and snowy!

Keep a fire extinguisher in your kitchen. Important note: make sure it's the right type (Type A,B and C fires) This is a basic one on amazon.

Second note: Its VERY important you keep it by the door you're most likely to run through and NOT by the stove. Because your first instinct will be to step towards the door and by the time you think to use an extinguisher it's entirely possible your access to it will be blocked by the fire. So always put it towards the nearest exit. Or one by each exit to be extra safe.

Twenty Dolars

Buy a fucking fire extinguisher.

Just buy a kitchen extinguisher

https://www.amazon.com/Kidde-FA110-Purpose-Extinguisher-1A10BC/dp/B00002ND64/

> After setting—and squelching—more than 20 fires, we had a winner. We’d assumed an all-around, ABC- type extinguisher would top our list, given its versatility. But the winner’s virtues were undeniable. It stood out among the traditional models for being especially simple to operate and for its powerful, extremely controlled spray with spot-on aim that was remarkably efficient. It took just seven seconds to put out the grease fire and 21 seconds to completely snuff out the burning dish towel (and it’s not even rated for combustible material). What’s more, in each case I felt I had barely used any of the contents. This model came in neck and neck with an ABC extinguisher, which contains damaging monoammonium phosphate. While the choice between a destroyed home and a scarred stovetop is no choice at all, we felt every bit as safe with our favorite model, with its nondamaging sodium bicarbonate. When the smoke cleared, this extinguisher was our top choice for safety in the kitchen.




From Season 11: Weeknight Workhorses

Testing notes

Youtube Video


Winner:
Kidde Kitchen Fire Extinguisher - $18.97

> Extremely fast, powerful, well-directed spray that quickly extinguished grease fire and burning towels, leaving a comfortable sense that plenty more spray was left in canister. Created noxious fumes and messy residue.

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED:
Kidde ABC Dry Chemical Fire Extinguisher - $19.99

> Big, focused spray with spot-on aim that took only a few seconds to put out grease fire and towel fires. Forceful spray extinguished dish towel, then blew it off heat source. Created noxious fumes and left messy residue.

2 others ranked as RECOMMENDED:

• First Alert Kitchen Fire Extinguisher - $23.34
  
• First Alert Multipurpose Fire Extinguisher - $21.99
  
  
  3 others wee RECOMMENDED WITH RESERVATIONS:
  
  
• First Alert Tundra Fire Extinguishing Spray
  
• Buckeye Multipurpose Dry Chemical Fire Extinguisher
  
• Amerex 2 1/2-lb Multipurpose Fire Extinguisher
  
  
  3 others were NOT RECOMMENDED:
  
  
• Fireade 2000 Fire Extinguisher Spray
  
• Homehero Fire Extinguisher
  
• Fire Blanket Corporation's Fire Blanket
  

Since you're in Peds ICU, I expect you'll already know to have one, but a decent first aid kit is one thing you don't want to be without. Also, a fire extinguisher. Hopefully you'll never need them!

Finally, I use this blender/chopper/whisk, in some form nearly every day, and this little slow cooker at least once a week :)

you're a big girl now!

Worse case scenario, your computer can literally catch on fire and it can spread like any other fire. The better the PSU, the lesser the chance for anything catastrophic. However, even super crappy PSUs are unlikely to catch fire. When a high quality PSU fails, most likely the only thing that will happen is the PSU itself stops working. When a low quality PSU fails, it might take some other parts with it, but probably won't catch on fire. So your PSU is very unlikely to actually catch on fire, but it never hurts to be prepared. You can buy a cheap fire extinguisher from amazon for like 15-20 bucks and just keep it near your desk. For example: This traditional extinguisher or something smaller/easier to use Hope this helps.

1. Multitool
   
   
2. Fire extinguisher
   
   
3. Solar panel portable charger
   
   
4. Telescoping keyring pen
   

Hey sorry, was building a fence today.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0002EVNJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_StskDbB6HG5J3

Thanks for all of the comments! Very helpful overall, I really appreciate it. One small point, though:

>Not positive on this point, but I think you must wait for the smoke to clear. I think the design idea is not not be tolerant of false alarms. If the Kidde SD detects smoke/CO, it is not wrong, shit's on fire.

We have a Kidde Nighthawk plugged in outside our master bedroom ... and invariably, whenever we host a party at our house and have 30-40 people over, the thing starts going off ... it's ridiculous. Fortunately, that one is easy enough to rip out of the outlet and pull it's battery out without going into the garage to retrieve a ladder ... so ... I'm naturally a bit cautious on how false alarms could be cancelled. This seems to be a known issue for Kidde - check out the number of false alarm reports on Amazon reviews, although it's on the GAS side (not CO).

It actually even false-alarmed once while we were away, traveling internationally (the Dropcam picked it up as an audio alarm).

>They have good ecosystem partners - the products I want/have in my house already anyway (Schlage, Lutron, GE, Chamberlain, etc.)

I love my Chamberlain MyQ - even without the GE Wink integration yet. The implementation just works well.

I think you may find some takers for your solution, especially with people who aren't familiar or comfortable with natural gas. However, how is your idea different from what's already available on the market? What does your idea bring to the table the current products on Amazon don't?

https://www.amazon.com/Topvico-Z-Wave-Water-Shutoff-Automation/dp/B0731B14B2

https://www.amazon.com/Nighthawk-Monoxide-Explosive-Model-KN-COEG-3/dp/B0002EVNJ6

> Kidde-KN-COEG-3-Nighthawk-Monoxide-Explosive

http://www.amazon.com/Kidde-KN-COEG-3-Nighthawk-Monoxide-Explosive/dp/B0002EVNJ6

You need the /dp/# at the end, you can put what ever you want beforehand actually.

http://www.amazon.com/this-will-still-take-you-to-the-alarm-thingi/dp/B0002EVNJ6

Try this one.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kidde-408-900-0113-02-amp-Explosive-Alarm-9V/dp/B0002EVNJ6/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449526651&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=explosive+gas+detector

You should also be able to get the First Alert locally.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/FIRST-ALERT-EXPLOSIVE-GAS-CARBON/dp/B000H2651Y/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1449526651&sr=8-3-fkmr1&keywords=explosive+gas+detector

An incomplete burn sounds to be rare and relatively easily identified in advance. Another quote from the site linked above:
>Carbon Monoxide is the product of incomplete gas combustion often because appliances are improperly adjusted. Properly functioning propane appliances will produce what is called an "ideal burn" during combustion and present no danger of Carbon Monoxide poisoning.

and

>Several products of incomplete combustion are easily visible and if noticed...

Additionally, the Mr. Heater Buddy OP is considering is a catalytic heater, and doesn't produce an open flame (cleaner).

Practicing an abundance of caution, inexpensive CO detectors are available and should be used.

I say split it. Canvas tent and a mr Heater.

Grab one of these.
http://www.kodiakcanvas.com/10-x-14-ft-flex-bow-vx-tent/

And get a buddy heater. That’s what I do. Also get a CO detector that runs on batteries.

Mr. Heater F232000 MH9BX Buddy 4,000-9,000-BTU Indoor-Safe Portable Propane Radiant Heater https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G51BZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rGJ3BbEGK272F

First Alert CO400 Carbon Monoxide Detector, Battery Operated https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N8OYXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dHJ3Bb65YD12X

On super cold nights I’ll let it run, but usually I operate it to keep the ten warm while I’m awake at night getting in my bag or in the morning when I wake up to warm up before I get dressed.

Used this setup in 20deg F camping with my two kids and wife. Heater can more than keep up. Also comes with a tip sensor and Ox sensor. But can always use a backup.

I may be mistaken, but I believe you can buy a sensor which detects heat or fire but not smoke. This would likely be ideal for your garage.

Normal household smoke detectors pick up particulate matter which is the by-product of combustion, such as vehicle exhaust. They also will pick up dust, like sawdust, and trigger. You'd likely get a few false alarms if you used one of them.

Edit: Yeah, I found some, just as an FYI.

https://www.amazon.com/Kidde-HD135F-Fyrnetics-Hardwire-Detector/dp/B000P4YY8K?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_5

https://www.amazon.com/System-Sensor-5602-Single-Circuit-Mechanical/dp/B0015Q7SZS?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_4

https://www.amazon.com/BRK-Brands-HD6135FB-Hardwire-Battery/dp/B000Q6LXW2?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1

Consider getting a temperature alarm in the kitchen - rather than a smoke alarm.

EDIT: "Heat Detector" is the proper word.

https://www.amazon.com/Kidde-HD135F-Fyrnetics-Hardwire-Detector/dp/B000P4YY8K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467053527&sr=8-1&keywords=heat+detector

You can also replace it with a heat detector alarm. Something like: https://www.amazon.com/Kidde-HD135F-Fyrnetics-Hardwire-Detector/dp/B000P4YY8K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491597928&sr=8-1&keywords=heat+detector+alarm

I've got that list covered but somehow neglected a carbon monoxide detector. Bunch of well-reviewed ones on Amazon for under $40 and well worth it. Just snagged a plug-in model with battery backup.

Thanks for the reminder!

They have that on SOOO many things. Like this item.

This -- One that shows a "peak ppm" reading actually. That way you can see if it spiked since last reset and cleared before you got to check it. http://smile.amazon.com/First-Alert-CO615-Monoxide-Plug-In/dp/B000Q5VMKG

If you rent, I recommend buying one you can plug-in (it has a battery backup too). It also has an optional longer cord if you want to plug it into a power strip or something and place it on a counter/table. This one got praise from Consumer Reports and when you move you can take it with you.

http://amzn.com/B000Q5VMKG

Me too! I just jumped on amazon and got this one.

This is the extinguisher I keep in my vehicle

I didn't mount it because I didn't want to drill holes. But it should be secured so it doesn't bounce around. Mine fits snugly in this And the organizer is secured via the straps and buckles.

My grandma is pretty frail and has severe arthritis and I don't even think she could operate a 2.5 lb version. Is something like this, or similar, better than nothing? First Alert Tundra Fire Extinguishing Aerosol Spray, AF400 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001229JCU/

What about the aerosol ones?

the easiest way to check these systems with with a can of smoke, designed just for testing, without fire.

You can buy a can of ...stuff that makes a vapor cloud to test smoke alarms. Or just find someone who vapes. It's not a good idea to blow real smoke into them because that can gum things up. Vape leaves little residue though.

I also had the same thought as you, but recently I had a batch of smoke alarms where the buzzer part itself was not working reliably. And I detected that using the test button. So it's not completely useless.

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Liquid-Detector-Tester-Aerosol/dp/B001B3BL0S

Here's a link to the testing stuff, I can't vouch for this brand, it's just an example.

I'm not sure if the Nest smoke detector uses photoelectric or ionization sensors, but if it's photoelectric, you can buy this to test it.

Edit: Noticed someone said this also worked for a smoke detector that uses ionization sensors, so this should work for your purposes.

Two quick questions:

• In my home country we were always taught to just get any old kitchen towel, damp it, and then throw it over the fire to smother it. Is this advice incorrect? I can totally understand why you wouldn't want to use a real fire blanket, as they're heavy and hard to position, but this wet kitchen towel thing seems unlikely to knock over the oil as the towel wouldn't have enough weight to move it. Worst case scenario it would catch fire itself.
  
• What is your opinion on these: http://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-AF400-2-Extinguisher-Aerosol/dp/B002U0KGDY they claim they can handle oil and grease fires?

Get some of these aerosols and keep them in your kitchen. They spray with one finger like hairspray. We keep one in the kitchen and one in the laundry room (we have a gas dryer).

First Alert Fire Extinguisher | Tundra Fire Extinguishing Aerosol Spray, Pack of 2, AF400-2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002U0KGDY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nEQKDbRAGBEP1

Why wait? You might forget. Here is the top rated one on Amazon and at $20 it's a fair price. http://www.amazon.com/Kidde-KN-COPP-B-LPM-Battery-Operated-Monoxide-Digital/dp/B004Y6V5CI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406035532&sr=8-1&keywords=carbon+monoxide

I have three of these, one on each level of my house. http://www.amazon.com/Kidde-KN-COPP-B-LPM-Battery-Operated-Monoxide-Digital/dp/B004Y6V5CI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405998065&sr=8-1&keywords=carbon+monoxide+detector
No affiliate link included.
$60 bucks total, and I don't even feel terrified reading this thread.

I just got one of these battery guys for my kid's room, I wonder if there's any reason it wouldn't work in an aircraft? It's reasonably compact and like twenty bucks

https://www.amazon.com/Kidde-Battery-Operated-Monoxide-KN-COPP-B-LPM/dp/B004Y6V5CI/

Supposedly ,the Kidde KN-Copp-B-LPM goes down to 11.

I have a Kidde as well. It is very highly ranked on Amazon with thousands of positive reviews. this one

If you want a CO Detector you can get a battery powered one. Main worry would be: you're asleep in a parking lot/festival area (Walmart/rest area), someone pulls up next to you, they fire up their generator (somehow that doesn't wake you up; ear plugs/alcohol), exhaust goes straight in your window, you die. All of this is way low change probability but it has happened and people have died.

https://www.amazon.com/Kidde-Battery-Operated-Monoxide-KN-COPP-B-LPM/dp/B004Y6V5CI

Fan

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GZMMH7K

Lights - lots of USB lights out there. You can power them and the fan off a powerbank if you want or go to something a little bigger like a GoalZero yeti. If you're getting a DC fridge I'd install an auxiliary/house/leisure battery setup otherwise there are probably less complicated solutions. I've wanted to do a house battery but it has been too involved so far to get done.

​

​

Here, try this CO detector. I feel like this would be a good option for now and to save for later.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Y6V5CI/


Just got a separate meter for my bedroom. Thanks for the reminder!

Do what I do and carry a CO2 monitor in your prius and you'll be fine. I've never had it go off in almost a year of running the engine (for the AC) every night.

Here's the one I've been using: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Y6V5CI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amerex B402, 5lb ABC Dry Chemical Class A B C Fire Extinguisher, with Wall Bracket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F5CK9X6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MMVlDbAMBRZD4

Like that?

https://www.amazon.com/Amerex-Chemical-Class-Extinguisher-Bracket/dp/B00F5CK9X6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Amerex+B402&qid=1563352515&s=gateway&sr=8-3#feature-bullets-btf

Amerex B402 ?

Comments on this particular model?

And for those who are supporting the Amazon workers strike this week; any good / safe online store to buy Amerex from?

Awesome, thanks so much! So this guy? https://smile.amazon.com/Amerex-Chemical-Class-Extinguisher-Bracket/dp/B00F5CK9X6/

Really appreciate your insights!

Nest is an option, but at $99, it is a bit too steep for my liking.

Something like this will work http://www.amazon.com/Kidde-P3010K-CO-Worry-Free-Photoelectric-Monoxide/dp/B00FHW7QRG

I found mine while walking through a big chain home improvement store. But mine is basically this: https://www.amazon.com/Worry-Free-Kitchen-Lithium-Battery-P3010K-CO/dp/B00FHW7QRG But not the fancy lithium one.

And yes, chaining them all together is the best way to go. But if you can't do it due to wiring restrains or something along those lines, not the end of the world.

Actually, it's not false info. The First Alert Z-Wave (keyword, Z-Wave) Smoke and CO2 Detectors do not work with the Wink Hub. It shows as a failed node in the Wink app, and I can't use it.

Do you have any sort of hub or smart home devices already?

Or just you bought some new alarms and trying to make them work?

Edit: are these the ones you are talking about?
First Alert 2-in-1 Z-Wave Smoke Detector & Carbon Monoxide Alarm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KMHXFAI/

Z-wave battery operated ones exist from FirstAlert, but why they don't make a hardwired version is beyond me.

Maybe the Leeo will work for you? Yes it's a detector for your detector.
https://shop.leeo.com/pages/about-leeo-smart-alert

The Smartthings community seems to talk about it:
https://community.smartthings.com/t/leeo-smart-alert-integrate-non-z-wave-smoke-detectors-with-st/56697

No worries. I have this First Alert smoke and CO detector. It's been working well, and does report the battery status, accurately in my experience.

https://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-Z-Wave-Detector-Monoxide/dp/B00KMHXFAI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486137045&sr=8-1&keywords=z+wave+smoke+co

This First Alert smoke/carbon dioxide detector is nice.

Z-wave smoke/CO2 detector:

https://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-Z-Wave-Detector-Monoxide/dp/B00KMHXFAI ($44.96 Free Shipping for Prime Members)

Assuming you are using Z-Wave:

Hard-wired Interconnected, Z-Wave Smoke/CO detectors don't exist to my knowledge. First Alert has one that has wireless interconnections.

You could get creative with some cheap door contacts and utilize the on-board alarm relays of conventional smoke/co detectors.

I think the best return on your money is figuring out what is causing the false alarms.

Some guidelines that deal with common false alarms:

• Kitchens, Bathrooms, the areas immediately outside kitchen/bathrooms, Furnace/Boiler Rooms - Use Heat and CO detection only.
  
• Move any smoke detector that is in path of any air supply vents or returns.
  
• Large temperature swings can cause false alarms in most detectors (front of doors leading to the outside or garage).
  
• Having detectors in areas that get below freezing or above 100F.
  
• If you have an open floor plan, that complicates smoke/air propagation from the kitchen and bathrooms.

I would think something like this automatic extinguisher to actually deal with any fire that might have spread to anything combustible plus some kind of wifi/zwave/etc enabled smoke detector, a home automation hub, and a toggle-able outlet to kill the power and prevent any continuous ignition source.

Personally, I recently got a Smart Things Hub and have been considering something like this smoke alarm with one of the many toggle-able outlets. Smart Things allows you to setup rules and what not so if the alarm goes off, power down the outlet. There might be cheaper/better options but that's what fits in with my home automation equipment.

Have you considered SafeAwake?

Personally, I have First Alert ZCOMBO and a separate Z-wave strobe/siren.

Nest protects Barely Go on Sale. I've seen Protects go for ridiculously cheap at walmart, but thats cuz they were discontinuing the stock on shelf. Aside from that, Protect go $80 to $100 average on Ebay/Offerup/Craigslist. If you aren't a nest Fan Boy, you can go with a $30 First alert Zwave smoke/carbon alarm. https://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-Z-Wave-Detector-Monoxide/dp/B00KMHXFAI I was looking at the insurance Discount, but for Us, Liberty mutual had a higher Monthly rate, didn't justify the swap just for a smoke detector.

I have 2 bedrooms and a bathroom at the top of my stairs, so I ended up having to pull the plug on all 3 of those detectors before it shut up, plus the one at the bottom of the stairs, and the one in the living room. I think the smoke wafted past all 5 over the 10 minutes, and they were all pissed off. I have high ceilings and an open balcony between the first and second floor, so smoke travels upstairs quick.

I bought one of the First Alert ZWave detectors, (https://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-Z-Wave-Carbon-Monoxide/dp/B00KMHXFAI) but I couldn't get any software to actually interface with it, and the ZWave documentation is sparse. As far as I can tell, it only sends ZWave alerts, it doesn't respond to any commands.

We got ours 4 years ago, I don't remember seeing combined detectors back then but to be honest I don't know that I would have ever looked. I WANTED a smart solution although when looking at the prices for these units now I found a ZWave compatible dual unit for $50... Definitely makes me reconsider what units to get when I convert my other ones...

Edit: For anyone interested here is the Z-Wave one

Looks like it's the same one I bought from Amazon, or at least it mentions the G in the product description. It paired up just fine with Abode.

Last time I bought one (December) Amazon shows I paid $26 for this one.

I have no idea about heal tolerances, but I found one that wirelessly connects to others, so if one goes off they all go off. I hooked up 3 of these in my house that doesn't have any hardwired smoke detectors.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0064S9IQ4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

EDIT: Alternatively, you could get one of these which connects to smartthings hub, so if it goes off you could get notifications on your phone. I actually bought 3 of these as well:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KMHXFAI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Not so much, this one is $25.

I JUST installed three of these--one on each floor of my house. Combination smoke detector + carbon monoxide detector. $32 each on AMZN:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PC5S0PA/

After installation, I pressed the button to test it, and it beeps loud A.F and then a female voice says "smoke detected" or "carbon monoxide detected". Freaking awesome.

If you are buying smoke detectors, look for the smoke / carbon monoxide combos.

Such as this one for $25 on Amazon

Yes its true if wood is around or any flammable material it would be wise to take precautions. However remember that you will never really exceed 275°C when printing and most fires with 3D printers happen due the heater cartridge falling out or when the wrong mosfets are installed on the electronics board. If however you really want to be safe install this fire ball extinguisher on top of your 3D printer:

https://www.amazon.com/Extinguisher-Suppression-Device-Safety-Product/dp/B01JVXFQ6E

The downside of this ball is that a false positive alarm will cost you your printer. A thermal camera or a smoke detector connected to the PSU will trigger when the fire already happened. This means you have to extinguish the fire yourself and If you are not close by this might be an issue.

Get one of these single-use flame extinguishing balls:

Amazon link

Never tried em but I saw these also. https://www.amazon.com/Extinguisher-Suppression-Device-Safety-Product/dp/B01JVXFQ6E/

Smoke alarm, webcam, and fire extinguisher nearby, but most importantly it's in an area where it could burn to the ground and not set the rest of the house on fire.

Ideally the smoke alarm should be tied to a smart outlet that the printer is plugged into, so it can automatically shut down.

You could also set one of these automatic extinguishers over your printer.
https://www.amazon.com/Extinguisher-Suppression-Device-Safety-Product/dp/B01JVXFQ6E
https://www.amazon.com/WilliamsRDM-675-3D-Stovetop-Firestop-Rangehood/dp/B00FL6VU3Y

hey OP, i found this thread by googing

​

ender 3 catching on fire

​

since i was too a bit worried, even though its brand new, I have 2 day prints going already

​

orered one of these for piece of mind

​

https://www.amazon.com/Extinguisher-Suppression-Device-Safety-Product/dp/B01JVXFQ6E

You mean like this?

AFO Fire Ball, ABC Fire Extinguisher, Fire Suppression Device, Fire Safety Product With Sign https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JVXFQ6E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KOxrDbGYB5EQ9

They also used to make glass fire ones @100 years ago.

http://www.oldhouseweb.com/how-to-advice/common-fire-safety-device-in-old-homes-a-health-hazard.shtml

EH I have such a nice setup / case, and I know fire chance is low but peace of mind would be nice.

I'd prefer a mini one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Extinguisher-Suppression-Device-Safety-Product/dp/B01JVXFQ6E

Something rated to put out a small fire, because frankly that's all I'll have in my enclosure if I ever have one. There's nothing majorly flammable in there.

What about when the wires insulation melts and sparks and shit go all over? Never happened to me but I hear about it a lot.
https://www.amazon.com/Extinguisher-Suppression-Device-Safety-Product/dp/B01JVXFQ6E

Well I think they'll make a mess if they go off but I do know some people keep these near their printers.

https://www.amazon.com/Extinguisher-Suppression-Device-Safety-Product/dp/B01JVXFQ6E/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

https://www.amazon.com/Extinguisher-Suppression-Device-Safety-Product/dp/B01JVXFQ6E

A simple, cheap enclosure is not difficult to build. I wouldn't let the lack of an enclosure restrict your choice. Carvey and Nomad are good choices, but I'd argue that a Shapeoko3 might be a better value because of its more powerful spindle and motors, and larger work area. The primary drawback of the Shapeoko 3, in my opinion, is the fact that it uses V wheels instead of real linear bearings, which means swarf can collect on the rails and wheels, and cause some problems, and they need to be adjusted properly. If you are interested in a 5-axis machine, there's the PocketNC although it's a bit of a step up in price at about $5,000+, and the work area is smaller, but you can do more complex parts. You didn't say what your budget was, but at that price, you are starting to get into range of a "real" machine such as a Tormach 440, but I'm not sure if that meets your portability requirements. You say you want it to be somewhat portable, which means lightweight, but generally the heavier the machine is, the more performance you'll get out of it. Rigidity is the name of the game in machining. Also consider the fact that after you buy the machine, you will need to spend some money on some endmills, so leave room in the budget for that.

​

Another thing that you need to understand is that CNC's are inherently more dangerous than 3D printers. It's not advisable to "set it and forget it" like you do with 3D printers that you let run overnight. People's shops/houses have burned down because of their unattended CNC. There are some simple fire suppression systems you can put in the enclosure, but nothing beats a human standing by, ready to hit the emergency stop button.

Also, a CNC does not quite have the same learning curve as a 3D printer to use it successfully, and it also costs more to operate. Most people can get onboard with the fact that they have to pay for 3D printer filament since it's a consumable. But it's a different dynamic when it comes to endmills. Endmills get dull or broken and need to be replaced. They need to be considered consumables too. And you need to have a decent variety of endmills on hand, with some backups. And you should have someone inspect the machine and tools on a regular basis. There is a Shapeoko3 in the employee makerspace here at my work, but every time I've been down there, I give it a little jiggle and it's apparent that the V wheels are not adjusted properly. New users wouldn't know to look for that.

294,290 fire extinguishers from Amazon, to combat the fire in the Amazon:
(Number 1 best seller)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LTICQYE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_n-UyDbA1AKWQK

An ABC or ABCK fire extinguisher is the best option for putting out a Lithium-Ion fire.

A good ABC fire extinguisher:

https://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-1038789-Standard-Extinguisher/dp/B01LTICQYE/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1RVQXSBJVEACY&keywords=abc+fire+extinguisher&qid=1572914686&sprefix=ABC+fire%2Caps%2C179&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077LVMGJ4/

Fire? That's what monitoring and alerting is for ;P

I came across your post while researching fire risks. I think I'm going to make my own post but I came across a couple products to give me some piece of mind at least.

Searching Amazon for "automatic fire" will give you as much information as I posses on the subject. I.e.

https://www.amazon.com/TENYU-Electric-Circuit-Automatic-Extinguisher/dp/B077LVMGJ4/

Thanks! I don’t use this one, but I use something similar, but in tube form, that was marketed as an engine bay product. I know there are many products that are pretty much the same. I honestly don’t recommend anyone uses an in home 3D printed without automatic fire suppression. I know of people who have burned their home down because of malfunctions. A $30 preventative measure could save you so much on a non-trivial risk.

This automatic fire extinguisher might be helpful:

TENYU Car, Electric or Circuit Box Automatic Self-Activation Fire Extinguisher Fire Suppression Device (Purple) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077LVMGJ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oV4KDb6044B7G

Поебень уже продается: https://www.amazon.com/Elide-Fire-Activation-Extinguisher-warranty/dp/B07BC653JC

Жалко, не нашел быстро реального применения в жизни. Но оно существует с 2016, сайт их все еще функционирует, может, и не наебалово.

Just don't leave your computer on unattended. And have one of these handy: https://www.amazon.com/Kidde-FA110-Purpose-Extinguisher-1A10BC/dp/B00002ND64/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1483651703&sr=8-3&keywords=fire+extinguisher

USA Today article on same topic but from another viewpoint.

They already have detectors that show a reading on an lcd display, they only sound off at 70, but they show levels that are lower.

http://www.amazon.com/Kidde-KN-COPP-B-LPM-Battery-Operated-Monoxide-Digital/dp/B004Y6V5CI/

You could just put one of these in each enclosure https://www.amazon.com/Extinguisher-Suppression-Device-Safety-Product/dp/B01JVXFQ6E/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1517520609&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=automatic+fire+extinguisher&psc=1

I don't get your question? Zwave is Zwave. Is pretty much the most prominent and pervasive home automation communication protocol. So yeah, it's interconnected?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KMHXFAI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496306974&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=zwave+smoke+detector&dpPl=1&dpID=41jC0IWtWgL&ref=plSrch

You add this to your network, and then use your hub/controller software to respond etc. If you're not American, then make sure you get the global one.